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 NORTH PEA I 
 
 ., J1,S12 FT. 
 
 THIS PEAK, ASCENDED BY MISS PECK, SEPTEMBER 2, 190S, IS 1,500 
 FEET HIGHER THAN MT. MCKINLEY.
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
 
 THE 
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN 
 TOUR 
 
 A Descriptive Guide 
 
 BY 
 
 ANNIE S, PECK, M.A. 
 
 Author of "A Search for tlie Apex of America" 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CHIEFLY FROM 
 PIIOTOGRA rilS B Y THE A UTIIOR 
 
 NEW AND RKVISKD KUll ION 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY 
 
 1916
 
 Copyright, 1913, 
 By George H. Doran Company 
 
 Copyright, 1916, 
 By George H. Doran Company
 
 INTRODUCTIOX 
 
 I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this 
 book, and those who consult or read it, upon the preparation 
 of a work of this character. Interest in Latin America is now 
 so rapidly growing throughout all the world, and especially 
 in the United States, that a descriptive guide-book of this kind 
 regarding the regions commonly visited by tourists has become 
 an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck is a practical 
 and timely contribution to the literature of the day. There 
 are few persons better qualified to write a book of this charac- 
 ter. The remarkable explorations which ]\Iiss Peck has un- 
 dertaken in the most difficult sections of Latin America, and 
 the traveling she has done in all parts of it, not only have 
 I)r()vi(led her with a vast fund of useful information about the 
 countries of South America but give especial authority to 
 what she writes. Her book contains in compact form an 
 amount of definite information concerning the countries con- 
 sidered, which should place it in the forefront of works of 
 this character. 
 
 ^ While, of course, it is impossible for the Pan Ajuerican 
 Union, as an official organization, and myself, as its official 
 head, to endorse in any way a particular l)ook or accept re- 
 sponsibility for the statements and views it contains, it gives 
 me real pleasure, from a personal standpoint, to express the 
 hope that this work of ]Miss Peck will have a wide circulation 
 and pi'ove of decided help in promoting travel to and thi-ough 
 ^ the Latin American countries. 
 vS The Pan American Union, which, as readers of this book 
 ^ probably know, is the office of all the American repul)lics — the 
 United States and its twenty sister Latin American countries 
 \a — organized and maintained by them for the i)urpo.se of 
 cleveloping commerce, friendship, better acquaintance, and 
 V^ peace among them all, is doing everything possible and legit i- 
 ^.^mate to persuade the traveling pul)lie of tiie United States 
 1*^ and Europe to visit tlie Latin American countries and l)ecome 
 familiar with their progress and development. There is no 
 
 45G571
 
 vi INTRODUCTION 
 
 influence in the world Ili;it helps iiioi'c to advance friendship, 
 comity, and coninicrcc! among countries than travel back and 
 forth ot" their representative men and women. Nearly every 
 person who visits Latin America under the advice of the Pan 
 American Union, upon his or her return, writes a letter ex- 
 pressing appreciation that this opportunity has been afforded 
 of seeing these wonderful countries of the south. 
 
 In conclusion, I would observe that if those who may be- 
 come interested in Latin America through reading ]\Iiss Peck's 
 book desire further information aliout any or all of these re- 
 publics, the Pan American Union will always be glad to pro- 
 vide them with such data as it may have for distribution. 
 
 Jqiix Barrett, 
 Director General of the Pan American Union. 
 
 Washington, D. C, U. S. A., 
 October, 21, 1913.
 
 FOR EVEKV OXE 
 
 To ALL Americans both of the Xorthhuul and of the South 
 this book with due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by 
 iiR'iling to travel and ac(iuaintance it may promote cominer- 
 cial intercourse, with the resulting ties of mutual benetit and 
 respect: in the hope, too, that the slender cord now feebly 
 entwining the various Republics may soon draw them all into 
 more intimate relations of f riendshi]) ; at last into a harmoni- 
 ous Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer 
 superior rights, but mutual confidence based upon the foun- 
 dations of justice shall insure perpetual peace. 
 
 The opportunity is here improved to express my grateful 
 acknowledgment of kindly assistance and attentions of di- 
 verse character, received throughout my travels from many 
 of my own countrymen, from Englishmen invariably inter- 
 ested and ready to aid, and from tlie ever courteous and 
 helpful Latin Americans: officials and private individuals, 
 with members of my own sex. As a complete list of these 
 would be too long I permit myself the mention of tliose only 
 who are entitled to especial recognition, our ^Minister to J^o- 
 livia, 1910-11)13, the Honorable Horace G. Knowles, and the 
 (iovernments of Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, without whose 
 prompt and substantial aid this work would have been impos- 
 sihlc That its usefulness may be such as to convey to them 
 a valid return is my earnest aspiration. 
 
 The indulgence of critics and of tourists is sought for er- 
 rors (few, I trust) and deficiencies Avhich nuiy be discovered. 
 These and other faults will have crept in on ;ieeount of a prep- 
 ar.ition somewliat hui'ried thnt the book might earlier be of 
 service, and fi-oin the impossibility of securing on .some ])()iMts 
 exact and ade(|uate ijiformation, in spite of diligent investi- 
 gation and careful sci-utiny of facts and figures. 
 
 ]\Iany items of interest and importance have been ojiiitted 
 lest the book should be too long. The selection of nuilerial it
 
 viii FOR EVERY ONE 
 
 is hoped will be suitable to the general reader, though doubt- 
 less every one will find topics pi'csentiid to which he is indif- 
 ferent, and others neglected which appear to hira of greater 
 consequence. 
 
 Hours have been spent in searching for the best authority 
 as to widely different figures and even as to varying accents 
 and spelling. In the absence of other information a few 
 statements have with some trepidation been copied from au- 
 thors whose recognized blunders have made their unverified 
 observations appear questionable. 
 
 While a different statement made by some other, albeit 
 notable writer cannot be taken as conclusive evidence of error, 
 any just criticism or suggestion presented to the author will 
 be gratefully received and considered with a view to incorpo- 
 rating it in a subsequent edition.
 
 CONTEXTS 
 
 CHAI'TEB PAGE 
 
 I W HAT THE TOLR Is IIoW AM) \\ IIK.N TO fJo WhaT It 
 
 Costs 1 
 
 II The Voyage to Panama C 
 
 III The Isthmus — The C'a.nai. — Colon 12 
 
 IV Colon to Panama — Panama City 2.3 
 
 V Steamship Lines on the West Coast — Ecladok 3G 
 
 VI Ox the Way to Callao 43 
 
 VII Salaverry, Chan Chan, Chimhote, the Huailas \'allky i>0 
 
 VIII Callao to Lima — History 5!) 
 
 IX Lima, the City of the Kings Gii 
 
 X The Suburbs ok Lima — The Oroya Railway — Ceuro de 
 
 Pasco SO 
 
 XI The Southern Railway of Peru, Arequipa .... DO 
 
 XII The Southern Railway — Cuzco !<'!> 
 
 XIII Bolivia — Cuzco to La Paz 12.3 
 
 XIV The City of La Paz 133 
 
 XV Other Regions of Bolivia and Routes to the Sea . . 142 
 
 XVI Along the Chilian Coast, Arica to Valparaiso 1.j4 
 
 XVII \'alparaiso lt)3 
 
 XV 11 1 Santi.\go 170 
 
 XIX Santiago — Continued IT'.i 
 
 XX Southern Chile — Santiacu) to Ri enos Aires iiy Sea . I'M 
 
 X\I Across the Andes to Menooza I'.is 
 
 XXII Argentina — Across the Plains to IU enos Aires . . 213 
 
 XXIII Buenos Aires 222 
 
 XXIV Buenos Aires — Continied 23S 
 
 XXV A Side Trip to RarAssu Falls and to Paragiay, in- 
 cluding Important Argentine Cities .... 237 
 
 ix
 
 X CONTENTS 
 
 CIIAPTICR I'AIJK 
 
 XXVI rUL'CUAY 272 
 
 XWII liKAZii. — Along tiik Coast to Santos 280 
 
 XWIIl Santos and SXo Tailo 295 
 
 XXIX Kio UE Jankiko — Bay and City 300 
 
 XXX Kio DE Janeiro — Continued 321 
 
 XXXI llio DE Janeiro — Concluded 330 
 
 XXXII X^ouTiiERN Brazil — Homeward 341 
 
 XXXIII South American Trade 300
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PACE 
 
 North Peak of .Mr. IIiascaran, 21,812 Fket I'Kfiili.spiccv 
 
 Mr. IIUASCARAN l-KOM AN ALTITUDE OF 10,00<) FEKT T)!! 
 
 Llancanuco Gorge ."<; 
 
 ('All AO 1 1 armor : RhX'EIVING SECRETARY IiOOT liCi 
 
 I'LA/.A i)E Armas, Cathedral CC 
 
 I'ORTALES AND MUNICIPAL lilll DINC 7< > 
 
 Calle Juni'n, Inauguration of 1'resident Leguia 70 
 
 I'ASEO (."OLUN AND EXPOSITION PaLACE 7S 
 
 In the ^Iuseum, Exposition Palace 78 
 
 STATIK of r.OLl'vAR. IM.A/.A l)K I. A I N t^U ISKKKN 82 
 
 Peruvian Mi'mmy, University of San Maiuos S2 
 
 On the Oroya Railway Ul 
 
 Pi.A/.A, Cfhho de Pasco ;»<; 
 
 Near the Source of the Amazon (Maranon ) in; 
 
 On the Southern Railway of Peru loj 
 
 Rki.icious Pi{0( kssion. El Misti at the Rkjht 1(I2 
 
 ( 'athkdral. Plaza Matkiz lit; 
 
 Ancient Wai.i 1 If", 
 
 r.ALSAs, La kk Titkaca 12S 
 
 La Paz from the Hills 12S 
 
 Cathedral and (Jovernmkn i Palaci; i;;i 
 
 I Iali, of ('on(;rf.ss. Monument to Mukili.o 1."'.4 
 
 Street Near the Market i:'.s 
 
 I \ THE Cemetery of La Paz 1.".s 
 
 .Monolithic (Jateway, 'I'iaiiuanaco 1 12 
 
 lMn.\.Ns AT Festival. 'I'iahuanac d 1 12 
 
 .Mr. Ii,i..\.\ii'U. 21,7ri(> I'lir, iko.m iiie I'iaiiau. 1:'..(K(H Fkfi- Mil 
 
 SORA lA 'I'OWN in; 
 
 INDI.WS 'l'ltANSPORTIN(i FrEKJHT 1 .".( > 
 
 Plaza and (Jovern.ment Pai.a< e. Oiti ho l.'ii 
 
 Valparaiso IIardor Hi I
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 MoNdMicNT TO Aintuo ruAT. I'la/a I Ni»i;rENi)i:.\riA 1«!4 
 
 Avi:mi»a Hua/ii., with r.iuTisn Monument lOS 
 
 Hk.sidknck, Vina dkl Mar H58 
 
 Nkw I Iaix or CoNORESS 174 
 
 Talace of Fine Arts 180 
 
 Entrance to Cerro Santa LuciA 18() 
 
 Palacio |)e i^ .Moneda 180 
 
 Cemetery in Rose Time 180 
 
 Tierra del Fuego 190 
 
 Entrance to Andine Tunnel, Chilian Side 190 
 
 AvENiDA DE Mayo 224 
 
 The Capitol Plaza, Buenos Aires 230 
 
 Palermo Park 230 
 
 Jockey Club Stand, Hippodrome 236 
 
 Centennial Exposition, Rural Society' 230 
 
 Botanical Garden 240 
 
 Zoological Garden. House of Zebus 240 
 
 Patio in New Hall of Justice 246 
 
 Colon Theatre 240 
 
 Tomb, Recoleta Cemetery 248 
 
 Recoleta Park 248 
 
 Mercado de Frutos and Riachuelo 250 
 
 Building of Public School Sarmiento 250 
 
 Paseo Colon, Grain Elevators in the Distance 252 
 
 Darsena Xord and Marine Shops 252 
 
 On the River Tigre 254 
 
 Legislative Building, La Plata 254 
 
 University Building. La Plata 250 
 
 Museum, La Plata 250 
 
 A Fraction of the Iguassu Falls 200 
 
 Judiciary Building. Rosario 2(i4 
 
 Residence on an Argentine Estancia 204 
 
 Government Palace, Asuncion 2()8 
 
 New Legislative Palace. Montevideo 270 
 
 SoLis Theatre 280 
 
 Government Palace , , . , , v .. . .. . . 280,
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Page 
 
 Port of Santos 2!»<> 
 
 Luz Station, Sao Paui.o 300 
 
 Municipal Tiieatkk 300 
 
 Yi'iranoa MrsKiM 302 
 
 IIOTKl, OK I M MICUANTS. Sao PaILO 302 
 
 CoiKKK Fazknda 304 
 
 COFl'KK TUKK 304 
 
 AVKMUA KlO I'.KA.NCO. ... 314 
 
 P.ori-KVAKi) P.KIKA Mak ikom Pk.nsao Siissa 314 
 
 Xationak Lir.uAKY ;'>22 
 
 Sciiooi. OF Fi.m; Akts .•522 
 
 AVKNIDA DO .MaNOIK '.V2ii 
 
 I{K.SII)ENCK OF TIIK PkESIDKNT '.','.','2 
 
 POTANICAI, (JAKI)EN .■!32 
 
 ( 'OKCOVADO FRO.\I THE PoiTLEVARI) PeIRA Mar 33(! 
 
 Through the Clouds, from Corcovado 33<i 
 
 United States Embassy. Petropolis .340 
 
 SllU.FT WITH IvIVKR '.UO 
 
 Pi{A(jA Di; Fkei Caktano P.ra.ndao, Para 3."»4 
 
 P.ahia 3r)4 
 
 ACKNOWLEDGMENT 
 Miss Peck's photograph of Mt. Huascaran, 
 page 56, is used by permission of Harper 
 & Brothers (copyright 1906), and through 
 the courtesy of the Pan American Union 
 eight illustrations were selected from the 
 Pan American Bulletin.
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR
 
 NOTE BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 Owing to unsettled conditions during the periotl of the Great 
 War, a revision of The South American Tour has been delayed. 
 
 At the present moment, February, 1920, certain plans for 
 South American shipping are in abeyance. Therefore, to 
 avoid merelj-^ temporary changes in the text, while awaiting 
 stable conditions shortly to be realized, I beg the indulgence of 
 tourists for a few obviously antiquated statements in the body 
 of the book, which will mislead no one, and present here such 
 facts as to transportation changes, new hotels, etc.. as an* now 
 available. 
 
 February 5th, 1920.
 
 ADDENDA 
 
 , All references to the Hamburg-American and to the Kosmos 
 8. 8. Lines should be ignored. Statements in the text regard- 
 ing railway and steamship fares are no longer accurate, most 
 of these being considerably increased. These and exact date 
 of sailings should always be investigated. 
 
 The information as to the Panama Canal is complete and 
 accurate if "will be" is changed to "is" or "are." 
 
 Page 37. — The railway' from Buenaventura now extends to 
 Cali and beyond. Guaj'aquil is said to be permanently freed 
 from yellow fever. 
 
 Page 59. — The United States flag is in these days frequently 
 seen. 
 
 Page 74.— American Ijanks may ])e found in Lima and in the 
 chief cities of the other republics. 
 
 Page 170. — The Savoy is a new hotel in Santiago. 
 
 Page 274.— Lanata has but one "t". 
 
 Page 290. — The railway journey, Montevideo to Sao Paulo, 
 may now be made in four and one-half daj'S, with sleeping and 
 dining car service for the entire distance, and a single change 
 t)f cars at the boundary of L'ruguay and Brazil. 
 
 Page 3n. — A large new hotel, the Guinle, has been opened 
 on the Avenida Rio Branco. 
 
 The population of most of the cities is a httle larger; tlio prices; 
 at hotels and in general for goods are higher. 
 
 Passports are essential' for all travelers.
 
 Pl^ESENT STEAMSHIP SERVICE 
 
 WEST COAST LINES 
 
 The Royal Mail S. S. service to the West Inches is tempo- 
 rarily suspended. The new Pacific Line (P. S. N.), with the 
 same ag;ents, has a present programme of two large ships 
 (14,000 tons), which accommodate 250 first class passengers, 
 sailing monthly to Valparaiso and other West Coast ports via 
 the Panama Canal, later to be supplemented by additional 
 service. The P. S. N. Co, continues its regular sailings from 
 ( 'ristobal to Valparaiso and intermediate ports. 
 
 The Peruvian and Chilian S. S. lines continue their usual 
 >ervice. 
 
 The United Fruit Co. at present has Tuesday saiHllg^ imm 
 Xew York via Jamaica to Cristobal in eight da^'s, and on 
 Saturdays with a stop-over at Havana in eleven days. Keturn- 
 ing, two boats leave Cristobal on Thursday's, one direct to New 
 York in seven daj'^, and one via Limon in eleven days. Ne^ 
 Orleans has service on Wednesdays to Cristobal in five or .six 
 days, direct or via Havana. Returning boats leave Cristobal 
 Wednesday or Thursda}^ arriving Thursday, week following. 
 
 The NEW Crace Line, with present monthly sailings, from 
 .\pril onward schedules a bi-weekly service from Xew York 
 through the Canal, to Callao in eleven or twelve tlays, to 
 X'alparaiso in nineteen days, with calls at Arica, Iquique, and 
 Antofagasta. Returning, Arica is omitted, and the voyage is 
 usually made in seventeen days. The boats of 10,000 tons 
 accommodate one hundred first class passengers. There is no 
 exchange of tickets with other lines. 
 
 The Pacific Mail S. S. Co. has a bi-weekly .service iioin .^au 
 I'Vancisco to Cristobal with calls at fifteen intermediate ports, 
 in a voyage of four weeks.
 
 PRESENT STEAMSHIP SERVICE 
 
 EAST COAST LINES 
 
 The Lamport & Holt Line, which experienced some losses 
 during the war, at present has monthly service to Montevideo 
 and Buenos Aires and approximately a bi-weekly service to 
 Brazil. 
 
 The Lloyd Brazileiro has a slightly irregular service to 
 Brazilian ports. 
 
 The MuNSON Line expects soon to have a bi-weekly service 
 to Rio de Janeiro, Santos, Montevideo, and Buenos Aires, 
 with ships of 10-12,000 tons. 
 
 The Norton Line has a tri-monthly service to Montevideo 
 and Buenos Aires. 
 
 From England and France there is service to the principal 
 East Coast ports by the Royal Mail "A" boats and uie Pacific 
 Line "0" boats.
 
 FOREWORD 
 
 The South American Tour! "Como no?'* "Why not?" 
 as many Spanish Americans say when they wish to give 
 hearty assent. Have you been around the world ? Do you 
 travel for pleasure or business? AVhatever your object, 
 whether your purse is full or you wish to fill it, the south- 
 ern half of our hemisphere is a land which should not be 
 i<;nored. 
 
 What is there to see ? May the journey be taken in comfort ? 
 These things shall be revealed in detail after a few general 
 facts have been presented. 
 
 Is the enjoyment of scenery the chief aim of your travel ? 
 With ease you may beliold some of the finest in the world, — • 
 much more if you care to take a little trouble: snow clad 
 mountains galore rising above 20,000 feet, dwarfing the 
 Alps into insignificance, giants to be admired not only 
 from afar as toui'ists in India gaze upon the Himalayas, but 
 from nearer points, even from their very foot; smoking vol- 
 canoes, cliffs more lofty than those of the Yosemite, wonder- 
 ful lake scenery including the highest sheet of water (12,500 
 feet) where steamboats regularly ply; strange yd fascinating 
 deserts; wondrous waterfalls, one of these surpassing Niagara 
 in heiglit, volume, and beauty ; magnificent tropical vegeta- 
 tion and forests, the highest raiii'oads, the most pictures(pie 
 and beautiful harbor of the world. All of these, with the 
 exception of the great cataract, are easily accessible, and 
 form a combination of scenic attractions unsurpassed in any 
 portion of the globe. 
 
 Do strange people and cities interest you more? You may 
 wander in towns old and (piaint, containing buildings of cen- 
 turies past, and in cities (juite up to date growing with tlie 
 rapidity of our own. In a few places Indians in peculiar garb 
 may be seen by the side of Paris gowns and Knglisli mas- 
 culine attire, in others an Indian with sandals, hood, and 
 poncho would attract as much attention as on liroadway.
 
 FOREWORD 
 
 Several eitics liave Imulevards, parks, and opera liouses finer 
 tluui any oi" wiiieJi North America can boast. 
 
 Do you care for ruins, antiquities? These also abound. 
 "Whole cities of the dead are there, and others where the new 
 civilization rises above or by the side of the old. Temples, 
 palaces, fortifications, ancient statues, mummies, and pottery 
 may be cursorily admired or profoundly studied, and search 
 may still be made for undiscovered monuments of a pre- 
 historic past. 
 
 These countries rapidly advancing, with astonishing mineral 
 and agricultural resources awaiting development, witli rail- 
 roads to be laid, with fast growing markets for almost every 
 kind of merchandise, invite the trader and the capitalist to 
 investigate hitherto neglected opportunities before it is too 
 late. 
 
 Well informed as to what there is to see, the possible tour- 
 ist is certain to inquire if the journey will be comfortable. 
 Perhaps, indeed, the order of the questions should be reversed ; 
 for few, I greatly fear, would be tempted to say "Let us go!" 
 if the tour involved any hardship. Happily this is not the 
 ease. Though the Imperator, the Mauretania, and the Olym- 
 pic do not 3'et sail in that direction, the names of several steam- 
 ship lines which serve the traveler to Panama, or Buenos 
 Aires are a guarantee of comfort and of sufficient luxury. 
 The steamers elsewhere are commodious, having for the most 
 part state rooms provided with electric fans, and satisf^'ing 
 all reasonable requirements. The railroads in the various 
 countries have the usual equipment. The hotels, if one does 
 not depart from the ordinary line of travel, will in general 
 be found satisfactory, providing excellent food, good beds, etc., 
 and in those cities where some little time should be spent 
 meeting the wants of all except the ultra fastidious tourist. 
 
 If we do not sympathize with the cry "See America first /^ 
 bearing in mind that America is the whole and not a fraction 
 of the Western Continent, at least, when we have seen the 
 Old World, instead of ever retracing our steps in familiar 
 ways, let us seek the strange New World beyond the equator 
 where a brief tour will reveal a multitude of scenes amazing 
 and delightful, even to the experienced traveler.
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN 
 TOUR 
 
 CHAPTER 1 
 
 WHAT THE TOUR IS— HOW AND WTTEX TO CIO— 
 WHAT IT COSTS 
 
 . The South American Tour, rapidly becoiiiinc: fashionable 
 and popular, and about to be described, includes the most in- 
 teresting and accessible portions of that continent, — its finest 
 scenery, its greatest cities. A wonderful variety in the swiftly 
 moving- pictures prevents any dullness on the part of the intel- 
 ligent traveler, who is ever kept alert for the continually 
 fresh experiences of this remarkable journey. 
 
 Where. My tourist party will be conducted first to Panama, 
 wlici'e the sail from ocean to ocean through an immense artifi- 
 cial channel awakens profound sensations of wonder and pride. 
 The opportunity then to continue in the same vessel along 
 the West Coast of South America, invaluable for commerce 
 and for those on business bent, may pi-ove a disadvantage to 
 the pleasui'c ti'aveler, by tempting him to pass witli a mere 
 glance the City of Panama and olher spots Avorlliy ol" observa- 
 tion. 
 
 On the Pacific side Pefu, P>()li\ia, and Chile will be \isited 
 by every one: a few may make llie side trip fo Ecuador. — 
 Guayaquil and Quito. In order to return along th(> ICast 
 Coast one may complete the circuit of the continenf by sail- 
 ing down, thi'ough the Straits of Magellan, past Punta 
 Arenas, and up on this side, or with the greater number may 
 cross the Andes by rail, thus to reach the metropolis of South 
 America, Buenos Aires. Thence, al'tci-, oi- if not including. 
 an excursion to Paraguay and to the greatest of Ami'iii;m 
 waterfalls, the Iguassu, one may sail to .Montevideo in Uruguay, 
 
 1
 
 2 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 from there to Brazil, returning from Rio de Janeiro directly 
 to New York, or by way of Europe as preferred. Similarly 
 the trip may be made from Europe by several lines of steamers 
 direct to Panama, or more quickly by way of New York, with 
 a return from Rio. 
 
 Altogether omitted from this itinerary are the countries 
 on the northern shore of South America. Of these Colombia 
 and Venezuela are better included in a West India trip. 
 The Guianas by ordinary tourists are neglected. 
 
 Obviously the journey may be made in either direction : 
 as above, or in reverse order ; but unless the season of the 
 year invites a change the former sequence should by all 
 means be followed. Thus taken the journey is one of ever 
 increasing interest, until its culmination in the delightful 
 harbor and city of Rio de Janeiro. Not that Peru is in- 
 ferior to Bolivia and Chile, or Buenos Aires to Rio, let me 
 hasten to add; each has its own peculiar charm; but one who 
 begins with the West Coast will find the entire journey far 
 more enjoyable and impressive. 
 
 When one should go depends more upon when one wishes 
 to leave home than upon the conditions prevailing in South 
 America; also upon one's individual taste as to temperature. 
 In brief, one may safely make the trip whenever it suits his 
 convenience. Bearing in mind what so many seem to for-^ 
 get, that the seasons are reversed in the northern and southern 
 hemispheres, one may leave home to escape either heat or 
 cold, or to avoid March winds, as he may elect. In none of 
 the countries to be visited is the variation between winter and 
 summer so great as in the latitude of New York, nor is the 
 tropical heat anywhere on the journey so intense as that on 
 many days of every summer here. 
 
 Leaving the United States on a four months' tour at any 
 time between the middle of November and the last of August, 
 I strongly advise one to visit the West Coast first. During 
 the remaining three months, one who dislikes hot weather 
 might better begin with Brazil. In December, January, and 
 Fel)ruary, the mercury at Rio is mostly in the eighties. 
 In January I found it comfortable enough for summer 
 weather, but I needed the ten degrees lower temperature of an 
 earlier or a later season to make my visit absolutely ideal
 
 HOW AND WHEN TO GO 3 
 
 With a delightful climate during nine months of the year, the 
 city at any time is perfectly healthy ; since the yellow fever, 
 formerly a dreaded scourge, was stamped out at Rio during 
 the same period that this was accomplished in Panama. 
 
 Buenos Aires also may be more advantageously visited dur- 
 ing the cooler weather, both because the opera and social 
 festivities are then in full swing, and because one is likely to 
 be more energetic for sight-seeing, of which there is much to 
 be done. In Peru and Bolivia, on the usual route of travel it 
 is never hot enough to be troublesome. Chile, in the central 
 and most visited portion, is a trifle less agreeable during the 
 southern summer than in spring or fall, especially on account 
 of the dust, but tliis matters little for a brief stay. 
 
 Four months should be allowed for the trip. A couple 
 who made it in three, though delighted with their journey, 
 mourned over the unavoidable omissions and were planning 
 to go again. Six months is not too much ; a whole year could 
 be profitably employed : but in four months or a trifle more, 
 one may visit the most important places and gain a fair idea 
 of the various countries. The personally conducted parties 
 for three months only are well worth while. 
 
 The expense of the trip Avill naturally vary according to 
 the time and extent of the journey and the economy or ex- 
 travagance of the tourist. A round trip ticket from New 
 York to New York, good either by the Straits or across the 
 Andes, may be j)urcliased for $475, or including a return by 
 way of Europe for $")(),■). AdditioiuU expenses- may be from 
 •tnOO or less to $1000 or more according to the person, Ihc 
 time, and the number of side trips taken. By several tourist 
 agencies personally conducted parties are semi-annually dis- 
 patched to South America at a cost varying from .$1:^7") for a 
 tour of 98 or 99 days to $2250 for UG days. Also the Ham- 
 burg-American Line has sent a ship around to Valparaiso by 
 way of the Straits. Tickets $475 to $:5000; optional extra 
 shore trips $300 or more. Since the completion of the Canal 
 a tourist sliij) has nuide the entire circuit. 
 
 Per.sons who prefer to be relieved of care, or who do not 
 speak Spanish, the language current at all points of the jour- 
 ney save Brazil, and tliere understood by edueate<l ))eople, 
 will do well to join a party, especially if their time is limited.
 
 4 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Those wlio can devote a longer period to the trip and who 
 like to do their own planning may see more hy themselves at 
 either greater or less expense. One who speaks only English, 
 hy keeping to the main line of travel and patronizing the 
 leading hotels, should have no serious difficulty ; though it 
 is, of course, an advantage, readily gained by one who is 
 familiar with Latin or French, to have some acquaintance with 
 Spanish, an easy and beautiful language. A bare smatter- 
 ing picked up from a phrase book on the voyage is better than 
 nothing, while a conversational knowledge greatly enhances 
 the pleasure and profit of the journey. 
 
 Baggage. In regard to baggage, the less taken the better, 
 both on account of the expense and because of the care it 
 entails; yet it is well to have a fair supply of good clothes, 
 since evening dress is everywhere more strictly en regie than 
 in most parts of the United States. The steamships are not 
 all rigid as to the precise amount of baggage, though the 
 allowance on different lines varies from 150 to 400 lbs. ; the 
 railroads are strict and extra baggage is expensive; only 100 
 lbs. are allowed. Going up to Bolivia by the Southern Rail- 
 way of Peru, a heavy box or two may cost as much as the 
 ticket. Many tourists take only hand baggage to Cuzeo and 
 La Paz, leaving on l)oard the steamer their heavy pieces, to 
 be reclaimed later at Valparaiso. On all roads, the hand 
 baggage goes free ; hence suit cases, etc., are much in evidence. 
 
 Clothing. One needs a supply of both light and heavy 
 ■weight, the proportion of each depending upon the season of 
 the year. Always by way of the Isthmus there are eight 
 or ten days of summer weather en route, and several weeks 
 during the East Coast journey. Along the seaboard of Peru 
 and Chile woolen or heavy underwear may be desirable for 
 many, as on the highlands of Peru and Bolivia; also in 
 Chile and Argentina during their winter season, when a tem- 
 perature in the forties and fifties will be experienced ; some 
 hotels have no fires, and the nights and mornings are chill. 
 On the mountain railways, as during a portion of the sea 
 voyage, wraps and rugs are needed in addition to moderately 
 heavy clothing. Furs though unnecessary may be found 
 agreeable during the months of winter, June to September. 
 
 Money may be carried in letters of credit on W. R. Grace,
 
 HOW AND WHEN TO GO 5 
 
 the National City Bank, Blair and Company, or other bank- 
 ers, or l)y American Express Cheques. to<retlier with a mod- 
 erate supply of yold. The English pound, being precisely 
 the same as the Penivian, is interchangeable with them; in 
 other countries it has been more acceptable and convenient 
 tlian American gold, though dollar exchange is now rapidly 
 becoming popular. A point to be noted and remembered is 
 that most resident Americans and English, a few natives, 
 and travelers in South America generally, speak of certain 
 coins, soles or pesos, as dollars ; a poor custom which should 
 not be imitated. Since it is prevalent, one must be on guard 
 to avoid mistakes. In Panama a clerk or a coachman saying 
 twenty cents or one dollar means silver -. i. e., 10 and 50 cents, 
 United States currency. A man in Lima who .speaks of 
 twenty dollars probably means soles, practically ten dollars. 
 In Bolivia a bolivian is about 40 cents, a peso in Chile is 22 
 cents more or less, in Argentina 44, in Uruguay $1.04; in 
 Brazil a milreis is 33 cents. All of the countries divide their 
 unit decimally, and if it were not for the foolish custom of 
 English speaking folk, there would be no confusion. In this 
 book the words dollars and cents and the sign $ will every- 
 where signify United States currency; otherwise the names 
 employed by the respective countries will be used, as soles, 
 pesos, and ccntavos. In connection with Brazilian money the 
 sign $ is put after the number; thus 15 milreis is written 
 15$000. On account of variations in the value of the cur- 
 rency of several countries due to the European War, it is de- 
 sirable to ascertain the precise rate of exchange at the mo- 
 ment.
 
 CHAPTER II 
 THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA 
 
 In 1903, before the United States' occupation, there was no 
 choice as to means of transport to the Isthmus. A single 
 steamship company, that of the Panama Railroad, dispatched 
 a vessel from New York once a week. Now there are four 
 different lines with as many weekly sailings, besides one from 
 New Orleans, a more convenient point of departure for many 
 south of Mason and Dixon's line. The four companies, all 
 with headquarters in New York, w^ll gladly furnish the latest 
 information in regard to their own sailing and accommoda- 
 tions as on other points in reference to the tour. 
 
 Fares. The lowest fare from New York to Colon, $75.00, 
 to Panama, $78.00, is the same on all lines, better accom- 
 modations being provided for a supplementary fee of from 
 $5.00 up. It is wisdom to purchase, if not a ticket for the 
 round trip, one as far at least as Mollendo, $191, as a 
 slight reduction is made on through tickets. Stop-overs are 
 allowed at any of the ports of call, and on the East or AA'est 
 Coasts of South America the journey may, if more convenient, 
 be resumed on certain other lines of steamers without extra 
 charge, save for embarking or disembarking in the small boats. 
 
 The respective merits of the four steamship lines to Panama 
 are a matter of opinion. On three of these I have enjoyed the 
 voyage, especially my last in a luxurious suite on the Prinz 
 August Wilhelm of the Atlas Hamburg-American Line. 
 
 The old Panama Company claims that its boats are provided 
 with all of the comforts afforded by the others, including rooms 
 with private baths. It has regular weekly sailings, on Thurs- 
 days, several of the steamers making the journey in six days, 
 instead of the seven, eight, or nine occupied by ships of the 
 other lines. Those who prefer American cooking or the 
 shorter voyage will choose one of these ships. 
 
 6
 
 THE VOYAGE TO PAXA.MA 7 
 
 Tlie Royal ^Mail Steam Packet Company, with wliich the 
 Pacific Steam Navigation Company is allied, continues its 
 service to Colon on alternate Saturdays, with tlie substitution 
 of two fine new steamers of 9000 tons, with elevators and other 
 modern luxuries, for two of the older ships. Tlie steamers 
 calling at Antilla, Cuba, and at Kingston, Jamaica, arrive at 
 Colon on Sunday, eight days from New York, connecting with 
 the boats of the Chilian and the Peruvian Lines sailing south 
 on ]\Ionday. "With the opening of the Canal to tratiHc in the 
 summer of 1914, a new service from New York was planned on 
 the intermediate Saturdays by the large steamers of the 
 P. S. N. Line, some of them of 15,500 tons, with double bot- 
 toms, seven steel decks, etc. These ships were scheduled to sail 
 from New York to the Isthmus, through the Canal, down the 
 west Coast, making the usual calls, then througli the Straits 
 of Magellan around to ^Montevideo, and with calls at Brazilian 
 and Spanish ports to Liverpool; with return voyage to New 
 York in reverse manner around South America. 
 
 The Hamburg-Americax Atlas Line has had fine steamers 
 sailing every Saturday for the Isthmus, touching at Santiago 
 de Cuba and Kingston, one week arriving at Colon on ^Monday, 
 connecting with the boats for the south, the next week on 
 Tuesday, thus missing them. 
 
 The United Fruit Company boasts of a great white fleet 
 with four sailings to Colon a week; two, on Wednesday and 
 Saturday, from New York; and two on the same days from 
 New Orleans. These ships, they say, are the only ones going 
 to Colon which were designed and built especially for tropical 
 service, thus having all of the latest devices for comfort as 
 well as for safety. A wireless equipment as a matter of course 
 tile l)oats of all lines carry; tliese have also a submarine signal 
 apparatus, to give warning of tlie proximity of anotber vessel, 
 and, as an especial feature, lifeboats which with a patent lever 
 may be swung off and lowered by a single man. l^y tlie 
 system of ventilation the temperature of the rooms at night 
 may be kept down to 55°. a boon to many on the muggy 
 Caribbean. All of tiie boats on tlie various lines have pianos 
 and music, most of them cards, checkers, chess, and lil)raries, 
 the United Fruit Company supplying the latest magazines. 
 
 The Fruit Company now sells tickets to Colon at a lower
 
 8 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 rate, with meals extra a la carte, the total eost thus being 
 <i'i-eat('i' ()!• less lliaii before. 
 
 Via New Orleans. Tlie oi){)ortujiity to go by way of New 
 Orleans may appeal, especially in winter, to some who have 
 not visited that city and to those who desire to avoid the pos- 
 sibility of two or three cold stormy days on the sea before 
 enterino- the regions of i)ei.'petiial summer. The Saturday 
 boats reach Colon Thursday morning, tlie Wednesday steamers 
 Wednesday, the latter having made a 34-hour call at Havana. 
 
 The voyage to Panama, indeed all of the six or seven weeks 
 on the sea, which are a necessary part of this tour, will be 
 likely to prove an agreeable experience even to those who 
 as a rule do not enjoy the ocean. While the waters of the 
 Atlantic may at any season be turbulent and tempestuous, the 
 portions of both oceans which are to be traversed are for the 
 most part so smooth that unless persons are determined to be 
 seasick whether they have occasion or not, it is probable that 
 they will suffer little or none from this unpleasant malady. 
 Ordinarily the sail to Panama, under sunny skies, over un- 
 ruffled seas, in weather, after a day or two, warm enough for 
 summer clothing, is a pleasure unalloyed. On the Caribbean 
 it may be a trifle muggy and sticky, but if favored with sun- 
 shine the wonderful blue of the waters, deeper than that of the 
 Bay of Naples, affords solace. On some of the ships a little 
 dance on deck, if happily under a tropical moon, may be an 
 experience affording delightful memories. 
 
 Watling's Island. After leaving New York harbor and the 
 atljoining coast the first land to come within range of vision 
 is that of Watling's Island, noted for a lighthouse of great 
 power and value. Otherwise unimportant, it acquires in- 
 terest from the fact that on this shore Cokimbus is believed 
 to have made his first landing in the Western World. The 
 island is thus entitled to the more pretentious name, San 
 Salvador, bestowed by the great explorer upon the land where 
 first he trod in devout thanksgiving, after many weeks of 
 painful suspense upon the limitless ocean. 
 
 Fortunate is the traveler who towards sunset enters Wincl- 
 ivard Channel, passing before dark the desolate wooded bluffs 
 of the eastern extremity of Cuba, Cape Maysi, and later hav- 
 ing a look at the southeast shores where rise sombre, forest
 
 THE VOYAGE TO PAXA:MA 9 
 
 covered peaks to an imposing heiglit, the loftiest above 8000 
 feet. From a Panama or United Fruit Company steamer no 
 more \vill you see of Cuba ; but on a boat of the Royal ]Mail 
 you will already have called at Antilla, in the eastern section 
 of the island's northern sliore, a new and growini,'' scnport on 
 Nipe Bay, and the north terminus of the Cu])an Railway. 
 Extensive docking facilities have been provided, large ware- 
 houses, immense tanks for molasses, a good hotel : and plans 
 are made for buihling here a great commercial city. 
 
 Santiago de Cuba, liy the Hamburg-American Line the 
 first call is made on the south side of the island at the more 
 famous and considerable city, Santiago de Cuba, which, 
 founded in 1514, is said to l)e the oldest settlement of size in 
 the AVestern Hemisphere. AVith a population of 50,000, 
 among Cuban cities it comes next to Havana. It has also 
 historic interest. That Hernando Cortez from this port, Nov. 
 18, 1518, set out for the bold conquest of the Aztec Empire is 
 a fact less widely known tlian the more recent circumstance 
 that in this slieltered harl)or the fleet of Admiral Cervera lay 
 concealed, until July 3, 1898, it sailed forth to its doom. In 
 the nai-row portal, less than 600 feet wide, rests the old 
 Mcrrimac, sunk by Lt. IIol)son and seven others, June 3, 1898. 
 On the riulit of the entrance, crowning a blulf 200 feet high, is 
 the old ]\Iorro Castle, an ancient fortress of picturesque ap- 
 pearance, begun soon after the founding of the city and pos- 
 sessing towers and turrets in genuine niediivval style. Six 
 miles farther, at the head of the bay, on a sloping terrace with 
 steep hills behind, is the bright, gay city; though at the noon- 
 tide hour it may seem a triile sleepy and dull. 
 
 If time permits, a drive on the line roads will be enjoyed. 
 To the t>an Juan battlefield three miles distant and to El CaiK y 
 a little farther the fare is .$1.50 for a single person, .$2.00 for 
 several. The longer drive to Morro Castle, fare .$3.50, atVoi-ds 
 charming views. In the city one proceeds first to the pla/.a, 
 where on one side is the great e»itheeli-al called the largt'st 
 in Cnb;i, containing rare marl)les and mahogany elioir stalls. 
 On tlie other sides ai'c the Casa (Jrande Hotel and the \ eiius 
 Restaurant. Near by is tiie Filarmonia Theatre where the 
 famous diva, Adalina Patti, is said to have made her debut. 
 A few may care to visit the spot where the Captain and sail-
 
 10 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ors of the Virginius were executed as filibusters in 187;i, a 
 slaughter pen near the liarl)or front to the east of the Cuba 
 Railway Station. An inscribed tablet there commemorates the 
 sad event. 
 
 Kingston, Jamaica, is visited by all of the steamers except 
 those of tile Panama Line. The city is on the soutli side 
 of the island, by the excellent and far famed harbor of 
 Port Royal. The town of that name, ancient rendezvous 
 of Morgan and the buccaneers, once stood on the long 
 sandy spit which separates the bay from the ocean. But 
 on a day in 1692 occurred one of those memorable tragedies 
 at which the whole world stands appalled. The earth was 
 shaken. The city sank beneath the sea, where it is said that 
 some of the buildings may yet be seen, when the waves are 
 still, deep down below the smiling tranquil surface. Kings- 
 ton, then founded on the main shore, recently suffered (Janu- 
 ary 14,. 1907), as we well remember, a similar though less com- 
 plete disaster, being merely shaken down instead of swallowed 
 up. Like San Francisco it was promptly rebuilt with better 
 architecture. Quite up to date with electric cars and other 
 modern conveniences, it is an attractive place of scenic and 
 tropical beauty, excellent too for shopping. Interesting are 
 the markets, the old Parish Church, badly shaken, but still 
 standing ; the main streets, King and Queen, at right angles to 
 each other; the Jamaica Institute with museum and library 
 where among other historical curios may be seen the famous 
 Shark papers, in 1799 thrown overboard, swallowed by a shark, 
 but soon after rescued from his maw, to the discomfiture 
 of the Yankee captain of the Nancy, an American privateer. 
 In the suburbs of the city within easy reach is King's House, 
 the fine residence of the Governor-General. Worth visiting 
 (electric cars) is Hope Gardens, an estate of 220 acres, with a 
 fine collection of indigenous plants and many exotics. The 
 splendid roads over the island, the possibilities for delightful 
 excursions, — the most enchanting the ascent of Blue ]\Ioun- 
 tain, 7423 feet, — would tempt to a longer stay. But ')\'e hasten 
 onward to more distant and greater glories. 
 
 Western Tourists. Tourists living west of the Rocky 
 IMountaius may prefer to sail from San Francisco or Los 
 Angeles to Balboa, the port of Panama, at a considerable sav-
 
 THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA H 
 
 ing of expense, though not of time. Express steamers twice 
 a month make the voyage from San Fraucisco in 14 days with 
 the sinule eall at San Pedro (Los Angeles), fare $85; while 
 three times a month there are other hoats whieli do not stop 
 at San Pedro, but make eleven calls in Mexico and Central 
 America, thus affording opportunity to see some of those 
 ports, eonsuminu' 26 days on the trip. On these steamers tiie 
 fare is .$120. All these boats are of the Paeitic ^lail Steam- 
 ship Company. By way of New York the journey from San 
 Francisco to Panama may, with close connection, l)e made 
 in 10 or 12 days. 
 
 European Tourists may sail from Southampton ])y Royal 
 Mail stiamer in 18 days to Colon, fare $125, or from Cher- 
 l)ourg, 17 days, fare $100. 
 
 Other companies which have steamers sailing from Europe 
 to Colon are the Hamburg-American, four times monthly 
 from Havre and Hamburg, the Leylaud C. Harrison, three 
 times a month from Liverpool, the Cia. Geuerale Transat- 
 lantica, once a month from St. Xazaire and once from Bor- 
 deaux, the Cia. Transalbintica and llie Cia. La Veloce, each 
 monthly from Barcelona and Genoa.
 
 CHAPTER III 
 THE ISTHMUS— THE CANAL— COLON 
 
 Two days from Jamaica, six, seven, eight, or nine from 
 New York, one arrives at Colon, eager to witness the wonder- 
 ful operations now well-nigh concluded, or to behold the fin- 
 ished work, when great ships, no longer halting at the At- 
 lantic shore, shall, through a broad channel among green hills 
 and islands, sail onward to the serene Pacific. Every one 
 knows of the marvellous transformation on the Isthmus dur- 
 ing the last ten years, but the most imaginative person, now 
 arriving for the first time, will hardly fancy what it was like 
 in 1903. 
 
 Colon, once called the most repulsive, disagreeable, filthy 
 hole of a place in all Christendom, though always a pretty 
 picture from the sea, is at present fair enough on land. The 
 climate only remains unchanged. It still rains — and rains : 
 130 inches a year: not all the time even in the rainy season, 
 which it is very apt to be, as that continues eight months, 
 from the first of May to January, leaving a dry season of 
 only four. Even in this period it is liable to rain, so it be- 
 hoves every one to be provided with raincoat and umbrella, 
 if not with overshoes. Everywhere there are good walks and 
 in the towns, paved streets, beyond which the tropical sun soon 
 dries the mud. 
 
 The agreeableness of the Isthmian climate as a whole and 
 in various localities, if to some extent indicated by figures, is 
 largely a matter of individual temperament. With little dif- 
 ference in temperature Colon has double the rainfall of Pan- 
 ama with a corresponding excess of humidity. Yet happily 
 for the welfare of the great work and the Avorkers, it has been 
 the fashion on the Isthmus for every one to have local pride; 
 to like his own station the best, whether on either shore, or in 
 one of the pleasant villages along the line. It is genuine 
 summer weather all the 3'ear around; not excessive heat, like 
 
 12
 
 THE ISTHMUS— THE CANAL— COLON l:! 
 
 our days in tlie 90 "s and 100 's; but mostly in the plain 80 's 
 by day, with cooler and comfortable nights. 
 
 Historical 
 
 This section of the New Woild was first visited in 1501 by Colum- 
 bus, who touched at Nunibre de Dios and Porto Bellu east of Colon, 
 perhaps sailing into Limou Bay; this he certainly did in 15012, nam- 
 ing the i^lace Puerto Naos, Navy Bay, as it was called until recent 
 5'ears. It is abont 400 years ago, September 25, 151. "5, that Yasco 
 Nunez de Balboa first saw the great Pacific, then named the South 
 Sea, — not, as often said, from the hill near Gorgoua, called Bal- 
 boa, more properly the Cerro Gigante, but from another 120 miles 
 east, as he was crossing the San Bias country. Thence he con- 
 tinued to the Bay San Miguel of Darien. This bold explorer, like 
 many another, fared badly. He was beheaded a few years later 
 at the age of forty-four. In 1519 the site of an Indian tishing 
 village near the farther shore was selected by Governor Pedrarias 
 as that of his future capital, and in 1521, it was made a city by 
 royal decree. This was Old Panama which soon became a place of 
 great wealth and luxury, as for a century or more the rich treas- 
 ures of Peru passed by this route to Old Spain. Yet it suffered 
 many vicissitudes from fires, buccaneers, and insurrections till at 
 length, when its prosperity had already begun to wane on account 
 of the ships going by the Strait of Magellan, it was captured, 
 phnulered, and destroyed, by the freebooter, Henry Morgan, Jan- 
 uary 19, 1671, never to be rebuilt. January 21, 1(573, the new 
 city of Panama, about four miles distant, was dedicated. Until 
 1821 the Isthmus was under the dominion of Spain, and after that, 
 in spite of numerous insurrections, remained a part of the country 
 of New Granada, later Colombia, nntil its sudden practical transfer 
 to the United Stales. On November 3, 1903, its independence was 
 lu'oclaimed, on the sixth the infant Kepublic was recognized by 
 the United States, and on February 20, 1904, a treaty with the 
 United States was signed by which it became a Protectorate, with 
 a position similar to that of Cuba. 
 
 As early as 1527 an explorer from Panama city went from the 
 Pacific up the Rio Grande Yalley, crossed the divide by Culebra 
 and sailed down the Chagres Kivcr to the Atlantic Ocean. Soon 
 this was a pojiular route, — to sail up the Chagres to a ]ioint fifteen 
 miles from Panama and continue by land to that city. As early 
 as 1534 the iilea of a canal occurred to that great monarch, Charles 
 y, who had a route surveyed. Pronounced too ex]>ensivo even for 
 his great wealth, the project was abandoned, but 3S1 years later,
 
 14 THE SOIITIT AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 a far greater canal than he dreamed of will be opened in the very 
 same track which his surveyors followed. 
 
 The French Canal 
 
 Various canal i^rojects in the meanwhile have been cherished, 
 though the building of the Panama Railroad, 1850-1855, had a de- 
 terrent eli'ect on the enterprise; but hi May, 187G, tlie Govenunent 
 of Colombia made a concession for the work to a French Com- 
 pany and operations soon followed. After sm-veys by Lieutenant 
 Wyse a sea-level canal from Limon Bay to Panama by the pass at 
 Culebra (meaning snake) was decided upon. January 10, 1881, 
 Ferdinand de Lesseps, promoter of the Suez Canal, made the cere- 
 monial beginning at the Pacific entrance, and January 20, 1882, 
 the first excavation was begun near the continental divide where, 
 in the section called the Culebra Cut, work has proceeded ever since 
 except from 1888 to 1891. The French were badly handicapped by 
 disease, Colombian interference, incomplete plans, and insufficient 
 funds, and were injured at home by rumors of sickness, extrava- 
 gance, etc. In 1887 the sea-level plan was transfonned to a lock- 
 level, and February 4, 1889, the company went into the hands of a 
 receiver. Several persons were convicted of fraud including Fei'di- 
 nand de Lesseps, who, eighty-six years of age, was probably in en- 
 tire ignorance of the business details. He died soon after. 
 
 In 1894 energetic work was recommenced by the new company 
 which continued operations until the Americans took possession. 
 May 4, 1904. $225,000,000 had been spent upon the work for which 
 the United States paid $40,000,000. Recently it was estimated to 
 have been worth $42,799,826. The advantages of the Americans 
 over the French in having political control of the region, modem 
 sanitaiy methods, better means of excavating, and unlimited money 
 should be considered; and due credit and admiration should be 
 awarded by all to de Lesseps and the Frenchmen who did so much, 
 according to the verdict of j^raise rendered by our own engineers. 
 
 Panama Canal. In June, 1904, Chief Engineer "Wallace, 
 Col. W. C. Gorgas, and others sailed to the Isthmus to pur- 
 sue the great work which had been transferred to the United 
 States, ]May 4, by the French. Digging in the Culebra Cut 
 was continued, but the chief labor for two years and a half 
 was to remedy the unsanitary conditions, to provide accom- 
 modations for the employees, to perfect the organization, to 
 reconstruct and double-track the railroad, and to improve the 
 terminal facilities : necessary preparations for the colossal task. 
 The sanitation of Colon and Panama included repaving,
 
 THE ISTHMUS— THE CANAL— COLON 15 
 
 sewerage systems, and fresh water sui)i)ly, as a part of the 
 war against yellow and malarial fever, A proportionate sum 
 spent on sanitation in the United States would be ifil2,000,- 
 000,000 a year, one-third of the entire amount devoted to 
 all government expenses. Since January, lf)07, the work has 
 progressed rapidly, so that the canal is expected to be com- 
 pleted and in operation some time before the date of its formal 
 inauguration January 1, 1915. 
 
 In si)ite of being hampered in many ways, much valuable 
 work was accomplished by Chief Engineer John F. Wallace, 
 who resigned after one year, and by his successor, John F. 
 Stevens. He serving until 1907 is said by Col. Goethals to 
 liave laid out the transportation scheme in a manner which 
 could not have been equaled by any army engineer. The 
 engineering skill and the great administrative ability of Col. 
 George W. Goethals, Chairman of the Isthmian Canal Com- 
 mission, Chief Engineer, President of the Railroad, Governor 
 of the Zone, etc., are so well known and already so highly 
 honored as to need no encomiums here. A benevolent despot, 
 able, wise, just, and honest, it is indeed a pleasure in this 
 day and generation to find one as to whose virtues all are 
 agreed, whose undying fame is as yet free from the malice of 
 petty jealousy. 
 
 The length of the Canal, from deep water on one side to the 
 same on the other, that is, from the Toro Point breakwater 
 on the Atlantic side to Naos Island on the Paciiic side, is about 
 50 miles, — 40 miles from shore to shore. From the Atlantic 
 entrance, by a channel 41 feet deep with a bottom width 
 of 500 feet, it is seven miles to Gatun, two-thirds of which is 
 in Limon Bay, the rest api)arently along a fairly broad river. 
 At Gatun, as everybody knows, are the locks, a double series 
 of three, by means of which the ships are raised 85 feet to 
 the level of Gatun Lake. This, with an area of 164 s(iuare 
 miles, is without doubt the lai-gest artificial sheet of water in 
 the world. The lake nalurally has a widely varying dej)th 
 and a highly irregular shape, with large and small arms, i)rom- 
 ontories, and islands; but vessels may sail at full speed 
 along a channel from 500 to 1000 feet in width \\>v a distance 
 of 24 miles until at l^as Obisjto the Culebra Cut is entered. 
 This, about nine miles long, has a bottom width, except
 
 16 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 on the curves, of 300 feet only, making a slower rate of 
 spe(>d necessary. At Pedro Miguel the ships are lowered 
 by one lock to a smaller lake covering 1200 acres, 30 feet 
 below. A mile and a half beyond, at Miraflores, the ships, 
 by means of two locks, return to sea level, thence sailing 
 on, 81/^ miles more, out into the Pacific. 
 
 The sail from ocean to ocean will to all be of intense 
 interest, though more highly appreciated by those who visited 
 the region before it was submerged, watched the great shovels 
 cutting away the range of hills which forms the continental 
 divide, and saw the locks in process of formation. 
 
 The great Gatun dam seems a wonderful creation, though 
 the only remarkable feature is its size. It should be borne 
 in mind that the extensive surface of the lake among the hills 
 does not cause any greater pressure upon the wall of the dam 
 than if it covered but a single acre; the depth of the water 
 being the determining factor, not the extent of surface. The 
 dam is nearly a mile and a half long at the top; half a mile 
 wide at the bottom, 400 feet at the water surface, and 100 
 at its crest, designed to be 105 feet above sea level and 20 
 feet above the normal level of the lake: a very wide margin 
 of safety. Of the entire length of the dam only 500 feet, 
 a small fraction, one-fifteenth, of the whole, will be exposed 
 to the maximum water head, 87 feet. The thickness of the 
 dam is greater than was deemed necessary by engineers, with 
 the result that there is no seepage : but it was thought best to 
 satisfy over-apprehensive Congressmen by the employment of 
 excessive caution. The interior of the dam is an impermeable 
 mixture of sand and clay obtained by dredging above and 
 below, placed between two parallel ridges of rock and ordi- 
 nary material obtained from the steam-shovel excavations. 
 The upstream slope of slight grade is thoroughly riprapped 
 ten feet below and ten above the mean water level. The 21 
 million cubic yards of material composing the dam, which 
 covers 400 acres, is sufficient to build a wall three feet high 
 and thick nearly halfway around the world. 
 
 The Gatun Lake will receive all the waters of the Chagres 
 basin of 1320 square miles and will contain at its ordinary 
 level 206 billion cnl)ic feet of water. An outlet, an obvious 
 necessity, is provided in the spillway, a cut through a hill
 
 THE TSTIDIT^R— TIIK CAXAL— COLON 17 
 
 of rock nearly in the center of the dam, southwest of the locks. 
 This opening, lined witli concrete, is 1200 feet long and 285 
 feet wide, with the i)ottoiii, at the ujiper end ten feet above sea 
 level, sloping down. 
 
 Until the construction of the dam was well advanced the 
 water from the Chagres and its tributaries flowed out through 
 this opening. Then it was closed at tlie upper or lake end 
 by a dam of concrete 808 feet long in the form of an arc of 
 a circle, its crest 69 feet above the sea. Upon this, 13 con- 
 crete piers rise to a height of 115.5 feet, with steel gates by 
 which the water level of the lake will be regulated. 
 
 The immense dou})le locks deserve more than a cursory 
 glance. Similar in construction and dimensions, each has a 
 usable length of 1000 feet and a width of 110 feet. The 
 chambers have floors and walls of concrete with mitering 
 gates at each end. The walls, perpendicular on the inside, 
 are 45 to 50 feet thick near the bottom, but the outer 
 walls narrow from a point 24 feet above the floor to a thickness 
 of 8 feet at the top. The middle wall separating the double 
 locks is 60 feet thick and 81 high, with l)oth faces vertical ; 
 but in the upper part it is not solid. A tunnel in the wall 
 has three divisions, the lowest for drainage, the middle for 
 electric wires to operate the gate and valve machinery, the 
 highest as a passage way for the operators. An enormous 
 amount of concrete has been employed for the locks, four 
 million or more cubic yards, with as many barrels of cement, 
 enough to make a sidewalk 9 feet wide and 6 inches thick 
 more than twice ai'ound the world. 
 
 iMatciiing the Avails are immense steel gates, 7 feet thick, 
 65 feet wide, and from 47 to 82 feet high, with a weight of 
 from 390 to 730 tons each. At the entrance to the locks are 
 double gates, also at the lower end of the upper lock in each 
 flight, in case of ramming by a ship accidentally breaking 
 through the fender cliaiii; for tlu-re are 24 chains in addition 
 to the gates, to prevent the gates being rannui'd by a sliip 
 under its own steam or having escaped from the towing loco- 
 motive. The chains are lowered into a groove to allow tlio 
 ships to pass. 
 
 Ships are not permitted to entci" the locks under tlieir own 
 steam, but they are towed through by electric locomotives,
 
 18 TIIK SOlTTir AMKKTCAX TOUR 
 
 usually four to each vessel, two ahead and two astern, the 
 latter to keep the vessel in the middle, and in the right place. 
 The gates and valves are also operated by electricity, with 
 power obtained tlirough water turbines from the head created 
 by Gatun Lake. The locks will be filled and emptied by a 
 system of culverts, one of which, about the size of the Hudson 
 River tunnels of the Pennsylvania Railroad, 18 feet in diame- 
 ter, extends along the side and middle walls, with smaller 
 branches under the floor of the locks. The water enters and 
 leaves by holes in the floor. The culverts are so arranged as 
 to economize water by passing it from one twin lock to the 
 other. To save both time and water each lock chamber has a 
 single gate near the middle dividing it into two parts, only 
 one of which is used for vessels less than 600 feet long. To 
 till and empty a lock requires about 15 minutes: to pass 
 through the three at Gatun, about an hour and a half, and as 
 much more to go down the locks on the Pacific side. The 
 entire passage through the Canal occupies 10 or 12 hours ac- 
 cording to the speed of the ship, in the narrower parts all 
 being obliged to go slowly. The first complete passage was 
 made by the tug IMariner with two barges, May 19, ]914. 
 Leaving Cristobal at 6 a. m. they reached Balboa at 6 :40 p. m. 
 The opening for general traffic occurred about three months 
 later. The grand celebration of the completion of the Canal, 
 which was planned for ]\Iarch 15, 1915, and was indefinitely 
 postponed on account of the European war, will probably 
 never take place. 
 
 Colon. Passengers arriving on a Panama Railroad Steam- 
 ship at Cristobal, practically a part of Colon, used to find wait- 
 ing on the dock a special train to carry them across the 
 Isthmus. The tourist, en route to a Pacific port, with his 
 heavy baggage checked through, may let that go on to Balboa, 
 the place of embarkation on the other side, and himself remain 
 with hand luggage to look about Colon. Tourists on other 
 steamers land at a Colon dock, from which it is a five minutes' 
 walk to the railway station. jMen and boys are about, to as- 
 sist with hand baggage. All that is checked through should be 
 transported to Balboa without personal care ; but the cautious 
 traveler will have an eye upon it to see that it goes to U\e 
 station here, and aboard the proper steamer on the Pacific side.
 
 THE ISTHMUS— THE CANxVL— COLON 19 
 
 Hotels. Washington, E. P. Rooms $3.00 per day and up, 
 December 1 to June 1. June to December $2.00. Meals $1.00 each 
 or a la carte. Imperial Hotel, Park Hotel. 
 
 Carricuje Fare, 10 cents for one, 20 cents lor two, 2.5 cents for 
 three, 30 cents for four. By the hour 75 cents for one, $1.00 for 
 two, and so on. 
 
 Laiuliim' early in the nioniin<>- one may have sufficient time 
 to look about Colon and Cristobal before taking the afternoon 
 train for Panama. Those planning a longer stay, to enjoy 
 some of the excursions available, will drive at once to the 
 new Washington Hotel on Colon Beach, near the site of the 
 old house of that name, which, giving way to its stately suc- 
 cessor, now stands in the rear of Christ Church and there 
 fulfills its original purpose to supply lodging for the railway 
 employees. The new hotel, built of hollow tiles and re- 
 enforced concrete in a modification of the Spanish ^Mission 
 style, is quite up to date with baths, electric lijihts, lounging 
 rooms, etc., broad verandas on the side towards the sea, and a 
 pretty garden between the house and sea wall. A swimming 
 pool has been constructed near by, 100x125 feet, from 3 to 9 
 feet deep, open on the sea side, Avhere a baffle wall protects it 
 from rough water. In 1903 I looked at the water with longing 
 eyes, but the numerous sharks deter most persons from ventur- 
 ing into the ocean. The hotel with some rooms with bath, and 
 others without, accommodates 175 persons. Like the Tivoli it 
 has no bar, and since April 24, 1913, there are no saloons in the 
 Zone outside of the cities, Colon and Panama, which except for 
 sanitary regulations are under Panamanian control. The 
 hotel enjoys a breeze all the year around and is said to be as 
 cool as Bar Harbor in July, and no warmer in winter; but it 
 did not seem that way to me when I spent a few days in Colon 
 in 1903, the excessive humidity rendering the heat oppressive. 
 
 In the center of the garden in front of the hotel is a rather 
 ugly monument, a red granite shaft on a triangular base, 
 bearing busts of John L. Stephens, Henry Chauncey, antl of 
 William II. Aspinwall, after whom Americans called the town 
 for some years. To these three men, in December, 1S4S, a 
 concession was granted liy Colombia to build a i-ailroad across 
 the isthmus. The discovery of gold in Calit'oinia made it 
 possible to raise money for the entei-pi-ise. Work began in
 
 20 Til 10 SOirill AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 1850, jiiid llie first train crossed the continent January 28, 
 1855. The j)assenger and the freight trade have been both 
 iieavy and expensive, so that from 1852 to the present time 
 annual dividends of fi-om 3 to 61 per cent have been paid. 
 IMost of the traffic to California and Oregon was diverted on 
 the completion in 1869 of the transcontinental railway, but 
 good dividends continued. In 1881 the French Canal Com- 
 ])any bought most of the shares, as the road was an obvious 
 necessity to their work; it therefore came into possession of 
 the United States Government, ]\Iay 4, 1904, when the pur- 
 chase of the French rights, work, and equipment was con- 
 summated. 
 
 The city of Colon, which the Colombian Government very 
 properly insisted upon calling after Columbus, is on the Island 
 of Manzanillo (formerly separated by a narrow strait from 
 the main land), a coral reef with a mangrove swamp at the 
 back. Here in 1850 some shanties and stores were built by 
 the pioneers of the railroad. The village grew and prospered 
 in spite of the swampy location, which was improved by the 
 deposits of rock and earth made by the French on the part 
 now known as Cristobal for the homes of the employees.- 
 In 1904 there were 10,000 people in the town, 9000 living in 
 shanties on stilts in the terrible section back of Front street. 
 Now in Cristobal-Colon there are 20,000 people, and the place 
 is drained and healthful. 
 
 Just east of the Washington Hotel is the gray stone build- 
 ing, modified Gothic, of Christ Episcopal Church, dedicated 
 in 1865. Built by contributions from the Panama Railroad 
 Company and various missionary societies, it was at first 
 American, after 1883 Anglican, and in 1907 again American 
 Episcopal. Whites and blacks here worship together, with a 
 majority of negroes. 
 
 Half a mile farther on is the fine Colon hospital with 525 
 beds, of course a Commission affair. Built right over the 
 water on piles a few feet high, one is almost tempted to be 
 sick to be housed in so attractive a place. Beyond is the quar- 
 antine station where persons coming from plague or fever 
 ports are detained six or seven days. 
 
 The numerous negroes from Jamaica and ^Martinique will 
 interest many, their dwellings on the back streets, the drainage
 
 TUP] ISTII.MI'S— THE CAXAI>— COLON 21 
 
 ditch, and Front street lined with stores, where curios of a 
 sort could formerly be purchased better than in Panama, — 
 bags or caps of cocoanut skins, heads carved from coeoanuts, 
 and carved gourds, large and small, the latter used as drink- 
 ing cups. 
 
 In Cristobal are dwellings of the Canal employees; a large 
 building occupied by the Commissary Department contains 
 a cold storage plant, a l)akpry, and a laundry, which serve all 
 the employees of the canal, the railroad, and the U. S. Gov- 
 ernment on the Isthmus : — these with their families number- 
 ing at times 60,000. Also there is a Commission Hotel with 
 meals at 30 cents for employees, 50 cents for transients, pro- 
 viding better fare than can be procured in most i)arts of the 
 United States for the price to employees; and a Y. M. C. A. 
 building which supplies a reading room, opportunity for games 
 and for social diversions including dances, lectures, and other 
 entertainments. There were five other similar structures 
 along the line. 
 
 At the end of the Point are two houses constructed for 
 Ferdinand de Lesseps and his son, now moved closer together 
 and devoted to offices of the Commissary and Health Depart- 
 ments. Beyond is the statue of the great Discoverer: the 
 monument, cast at Turin, a replica of one in Lima, presented 
 by Empress Eugenie to the Republic of Colombia to be erected 
 at Colon. Columbus, of noble countenance, is represented in 
 attitude of explanation to an Indian maiden personifying 
 America, whose face expresses wonder and alarm. 
 
 Porto Bello. With time to sp;n-e an excursion may be made 
 to the beautiful harbor of Porto Bello, 18 mik's northeast of 
 Colon, where the Commission has been operating, in a great 
 rock quarry, one of the largest stone crusliers in the world. 
 I\Iillions of cubic yards of rock have l)een taken from here, a 
 smaller size for tlie concrete of the Catun locks and spillway, 
 a larger size for the Colon breakwater. Porto Bello and 
 Nombre de Dios were the two safe harbors found by the 
 Spaniards on this coast. The former has been a Spanish town 
 since 151)7. AVith a fine location the town is considered 
 unhealthy, having an extraordinary amount of rain, 2;{7 
 inches in 1900. The former daily boat service thither, now 
 discontinued, then allowed two hours or more to view tlie
 
 22 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 American settlement of 1000 people at the stone quarries and 
 to cross the bay to the old village to see the finest ruins on the 
 Istlinius: an old customs house, old bridges, the remains of 
 Fort San Jerome, and the old plaza. There is a population of 
 over 2000, Avith a church and stores. 
 
 Some miles beyond Porto Bello begins the large section of 
 country inhabited by the San Bias Indians, who have been 
 smart and sensible enough to keep the white man out of their 
 territory, thus preserving their independence to the pres- 
 ent day. They come to Colon to trade, but seldom allow a 
 stranger to remain over night in their territory. 
 
 San Lorenzo Fort. Another excursion of interest is to San 
 Lorenzo Fort, at the mouth of the Chagres River, either by 
 sea in a motor boat, or better, in a canoe down the river from 
 Gatun, a sail of ten miles, during which one has a glimpse of 
 the real tropical jungle ; the sea route affords a better view of 
 the old fort. The remains are very complete, an outer wall, 
 and a castle to be entered by a drawbridge. There are strong 
 rooms, galleries for prison cells, manacles, etc., seeing which 
 the tourist is apt to be more contented with his own lot. At 
 the foot of the hill is the little village of Chagres. 
 
 In front of Cristobal a construction of five piers is being 
 made enclosing ten docks capable of berthing ships 1000 feet 
 long, these being the Atlantic terminal docks for the canal. 
 Across the bay is Toro Point. From this headland a break- 
 water has been constructed to protect the canal entrance and 
 Limon Bay from the violent northers which occasionally visit 
 this coast. It will also reduce the amount of silt to be washed 
 into the dredged canal. From Toro Point the breakwater 
 extends northeast for a distance of over two miles. The 
 bottom width varies with the depth of the water; at the top 
 it is 15 feet wide and 10 feet above mean sea level. A 
 double-track trestle was first constructed, from which carloads 
 of rock were dumped into the sea. The cost is about $5,500,- 
 000. It has recently been decided to construct an additional 
 though smaller breakwater on the Colon side, extending \vest, 
 some distance north of Cristobal Point. Fortifications for 
 the defense of the canal have been raised, both at Toro Point 
 and on the east side at Margarita Island, one mile north of 
 ^Fanzanillo.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 COLON TO PANAMA— PANAMA CITY 
 
 Four daily trains in about 2 hours witii special train for si.£rht- 
 seers, round trip tare $4.00, from Colon at S a. ni., with barjje -^en*- 
 ice on lake, $1.50 extra. 
 
 Guides for tourist parties to inspect Canal, $7.50 per day, on 
 application to Railway Ticket Agents, Colon or Panama. 
 
 "While the sail througli the great canal will be an ex- 
 traordinary delight, the railroad ride will also atTord much 
 pleasure. On leaving Colon the line passes various docks, the 
 Government printing plant, the marine shop and dry dock at 
 ]\Iount Hope, and the main storehouse of supj^lies for canal 
 and railroad. On the east side of the railroad, opposite the 
 warehouse, is ]\Iount Hope Cemetery, where many French and 
 others are buried, on a knoll which for a time was called ]\Ion- 
 key Hill on account of the many monkeys there. These 
 creatures are found in the woods all over the Isthmus. Stone 
 piers which may be seen on the east beyond ^lindi were 
 erected by the French for a viaduct with the design of relocat- 
 ing tlie railroad. This, obviously necessary for the Americans, 
 has been accomplished at a cost of nearly $I),000.000. In the 
 swamp lands along here nuich papyrus is growing. 
 
 New Gatun. From Colon to Gatun a distance of 7 miles 
 the track rises 95 feet. New Gatun, on the hill, is a village 
 but a few years old, the site of the ancient town now Ix-ing 
 covered l)y tiie dam. In 1!)04 Gatun was a busy i)la{'e on the 
 Chagres River, where sometimes 100 dugouts loadtti with 
 bananas would tie at the bank, and seven or eight car loads a 
 week would ))e shipped. In former days the railroad followed 
 up the Chagres Valley, but now it is obliged to turn east to 
 make a detour around the lake. It is desirabl(> to alight liere 
 to examine the locks and if possible the spillway. Along tiie 
 
 23
 
 24 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 edge of llic lock walls may be seen the cog rail for the towing 
 locomotives, and fjirlher l)ack the retui'n track without center 
 cog. Tall conci-ete columns along the top of the walls are the 
 standards for eleetric lights to illuminate the locks. Tall 
 towers, apparently light houses, are range lights on the center 
 lilies ol" the straight stretches of the canal, so that a vessel 
 lining up with the tower would know it was on the center line 
 of the canal. From the building on Gatun hill containing the 
 office of the Division Engineer may be had the best view of the 
 canal obtainable from any one point. Northward are thr 
 waters of Limon Bay ; and the masts of shipping at Colon 
 harbor are visible. Close at hand are the locks and dam and a 
 broad stretch of the lake. 
 
 Leaving Gatun the new road turns east along Gatun ridge, 
 then south with pretty glimpses of the jungle, crossing the 
 Gatun Valley to jMonte Lirio. From this point it skirts the 
 east shore of the lake to Bas Obispo at the beginning of the 
 Culebra Cut. Several immense embankments were necessary 
 to cross the Gatun Valley section above the surface of the lake, 
 and others were made for dumping the spoil from Culebra 
 Cut near its north end. Half a mile beyond Monte Lirio the 
 railroad crosses the Gatun River by a steel girder bridge 318 
 feet long, built in three spans, one of which may be lifted to 
 permit access by boat to the upper arm of the lake. Another 
 steel girder bridge, one-quarter of a mile long, crosses the Cha- 
 gres River at Gamboa, with the channel span a 200-foot truss, 
 the other fourteen, plate girder spans, each 80 feet long. 
 From this bridge, at the north end of which a new town-site 
 has been laid out, a glimpse of the northern end of Culebra 
 Cut may be had. It was originally expected to carry the road 
 through the Cut, 10 feet above the water level, but the slides 
 making this impracticable, the relocation has been made by 
 cutting through a ridge of solid rock and working around east 
 of Gold Hill, passing Culebra at a distance of 2 miles. 
 Then the track runs down the Pedro INIiguel Valley to Pedro 
 ]\Iiguel Station, where it is within 300 feet of the locks. The 
 highest elevation of the track is 270 feet above the sea about 
 opposite Las Cascadas. The Continental Divide is crossed 
 240 feet above the sea in about the same line as Culebra. 
 
 Journeying by the new road from Gatun, the old traveler or
 
 COLON TO PANAMA 25 
 
 resident will miss some i'ainiliar names, the bearers of which, 
 if not concealed under water, are now remote and vanishing. 
 Lion and Tiger Hills were small hamlets, but Bohio was quite 
 a place, where the French had a machine shop. It was once 
 considered as a i)0ssil)le site for the locks and dam. Frijoles 
 (beans) and Tal)ernilla have been places of some importance 
 and Gorgona of more, because here were the American machine 
 shops, now removed to Balboa. The place with the peculiar 
 name Matachin, which everybody remembered, Avill not be 
 covered over with water, but like others farther on will relapse 
 into a small hamlet. The prevalent notion that this name was 
 derived from matar, to kill, and Chi no, and was applied on 
 account of the wholesale deaths of Chinese is incorrect. It is 
 the Spanish word meaning a dance by grotes(iue figures. 
 
 Bas Obispo beyond Gamboa is one of the old places still 
 visible, at the north end of the Culebra Cut. Near by, De- 
 cember 12, 1908, occurred the greatest accident in the con- 
 struction of the Canal when 44,000 pounds of 45 per cent 
 dyiuimite which had been packed into lifty-three holes were 
 set off by the explosion of one, as the last hole was being 
 tamped. As the hour Avas 11.10 many men were passing home 
 to lunch. The hillside, falling into the Cut, as had been 
 planned for a later hour, buried several men, and others were 
 struck b}' flying rock. In all twenty-six were killed and a 
 dozen permanently maimed. Near Bas Obispo is Camp Elli- 
 ott, wliere a battalion of marines has long been stationed. 
 
 Empire. Las Cascadas, where once a stream tumbled down 
 a precipice 40 feet towards the Chagi-es, formerly came next, 
 then Empire, one of the largest of the Canal villages. Here 
 the French began excavations in the Cut, as previously nuMi- 
 tioned, January 20, 1882, before a large assemblage of officials 
 of the Canal Company and of Panama. The work was blessed 
 by the Bishop and the too connnon iliaiii[>agne celebrated the 
 occasiou. 
 
 Culebra was the real capital of the Zone after -loliii F. 
 Stevens in 1!)()6 moved his (piarters there from Ancon. Here 
 has been the home and office of Col. Goethals, the head of 
 everything, and of other prominent ofTicials. In 1008 Culel)ra 
 had a j)opula1ion of v)7)\(\, but is now much smaller. The side 
 of the hill towards the Cut has been gradually slipping away,
 
 2G THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tiikiii^' a part of the village, but so slowly that the houses were 
 first removed to the rear slopes. 
 
 The average depth of the Cut through its nine miles of 
 length is 120 feet. The heaviest point is near Culebra vil- 
 lage between Gold Ilill on the east side and Contractors' Hill 
 on the west, where the depth averages 375 feet. The summit 
 of (iold Hill is 660 feet above the sea, of Contractors' Hill, 
 410 feet. Beyond Gold Hill is the troublesome Cucuracha 
 slide, though the largest is the one at the Culebra village on 
 the west. One slide here involved 1,550,000 cubic yards. At 
 this point the Cut is about 2000 feet across. The dwellings 
 of the employees here, as at Cristobal and all along the line, 
 were very pretty and comfortable with their screened ve- 
 randas. Market facilities have been good with prices gen- 
 erally lower than at home for meat and other things brought 
 in cold storage from the States. The climate is not objection- 
 able to the majority, and many were grieved, when, the 
 Canal being finished and only a select few remaining for 
 its service, they were obliged to return home again. Some, 
 no doubt, being now weaned from excessive affection for one 
 particular spot, have gone to other parts of Spanish Amer- 
 ica. There, intelligent men of the right spirit, who have 
 saved a portion of their earnings, will find agreeable oppor- 
 tunities for work and for investments of various kinds. 
 
 Beyond Pedro Miguel is the Miraflores Lake and the two 
 Miraflores locks by which the ships reach sea level again. 
 After passing through a concrete lined tunnel 736 feet long, 
 Ancon Hill, overlooking the Pacific entrance to the Canal, is 
 straight ahead. One more station, Corozal, headquarters of 
 the Pacific Division, and the city of Panama is reached. 
 
 Panama City 
 
 Hotels. The Tivoli, $5.50 and v;p a day, American plan; the 
 Central, $3.00 a day, American plan ; the International, Metropole, 
 and several others, smaller and less expensive, but some of them 
 neat and respectable. 
 
 Carriage Fare, 10 cents, U. S. currency, for one person, 20 cents 
 for two, etc., in Panama City, or 20 cents and 40 cents silver, 
 Panama money. Panama to Balboa docks, 50 cents IT. S. currency. 
 
 Automobile Tariff, first hour, for cars seating five, six, or seven 
 persons, $5.00, $6.00, or $7.00; second hour $1.00 less. Local fares
 
 PANAMA CITY 27 
 
 about the city, 50 cents for each person. To Balboa Docks and 
 return, $3.50, five-seat car; .$5.00, seven-seat car. To Old Panama 
 and return, $5.00, or $7.00, if within one hour; if more, on hourly 
 basis. 
 
 Electric Cars, fare five cents, run every ten minutes from Hotel 
 Tivoli past the railway station down Avenue Central to the Na- 
 tional Palace near the sea wall; also beyond the Tivoli to the 
 Catholic Chapel on the Ancon Hospital road. Of two other lines, 
 one runs from Santa Ana Park by C, IGth, and B streets, and 
 so on to Balboa ; another branching from Central avenue at 13th 
 street and following North avenue goes out the Sabanas road. 
 
 The Republic of Panama, proclaimed Nov. 3, 1903, by 
 treaty of Feb. 26, 1904, enine iiiuler the protection of the 
 United States, receiving .$10,000,000 casb for the sovereignty 
 of the Canal Zone and after 1913 a yearly rental of $250,- 
 000. The form of government of the Republic is similar to 
 that of the United States. The country is 340 miles long 
 from east to west, from the Atrato River on the Colombia 
 side to Costa Rica on tlie west. From north to south its 
 widest point is 120 miles in the province of Veraguas, and the 
 narrowest less than 40 in Darien. There are mountains 7000 
 feet high in Darien and 11,000 feet in Chii'iciui ; tlie lowest 
 pass, 312 feet, is that used by the Canal and Railroad. The 
 population, outside the Zone about 340,000, includes 36,000 
 Indians, and a very large proportion of negroes and mixed 
 races. The country has excellent possibilities for agriculture 
 and cnllle raising, with smaller ones for minerals. 
 
 Panama. The new city of Panama, founded January 21, 
 1673, was soon protected by a sea-wall, still standing, and on 
 the single land side by a wall, and a deep moat cros.sed by a 
 drawl)i"idge. To make it i)roof against further raids two 
 forts were erected on the land side and one by tlie sea. The 
 residences built of wood suffered from various fires so that 
 few old buildings renuiin, yet tlie masonry structures have 
 the appearance of age. One hnmli-cd and twenty years ago 
 the city had 7857 inhabitants, double that in 1870, and in 
 1911, 37,505. 
 
 Hotel Tivoli. Arriving at Panama, almost every one who 
 can alToi'd it will go to the Hotel Tivoli, near the station, de- 
 lightfully situated at tlie foot of Ancon Hill, on the farther 
 side of a small park called the Plaza de Lessens. It is in-
 
 28 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tended some day to erect in tlu; center of the i)la/,a a statue 
 to tlie hero of tlie Suez Canal, initiator of the great work at 
 l*auaina. On a knoll, overlooking the city and part of the 
 bay, the hotel has many rooms opening oh the broad verandas 
 ■which afford charming prospects. The nights are comfort- 
 ably cool, and the table affords good American fare. The 
 hotel was erected by the Government especially to accommo- 
 date Canal employees on their arrival, and persons whose 
 business with the administration caused them to come to the 
 Isthmus. Also it was designed to afford recreation to em- 
 ployees on the line desirous of an occasional trip to the city. 
 AVith this end in view a large dance hall was provided about 
 80x40 feet, where the Tivoli Club, organized among the em- 
 ployees, has given dances two Saturday evenings each month. 
 The hotel, opened Jan. 1, 1907, has 220 guest rooms, and a 
 dining-room seating 700. The building, 314 feet long with 
 wings 156 feet deep, has a court in front 91 feet in depth 
 with a carriage road and garden. Of late on account of in- 
 creased travel the hotel has been enlarged and is much used 
 by tourists. The prices, $5.50 a day and up, will seem reason- 
 able enough to patrons of the large New York hotels. 
 
 The Hotel Central may be preferred by some on account 
 of the lower prices, $3.00 and up, or because it is in the 
 center of things on the principal plaza of Panama (now 
 called the Independencia), opposite the cathedral; its loca- 
 tion and its clientele afford an opportunity to see more of 
 Spanish American life. The building is four stories high, 
 in Spanish style around a central court or patio. Built in 
 1880 it has recently been renewed, and the rooms are large 
 and airy. The table formerly left something to be desired, 
 but has very likel}^ improved with the competition. Once it 
 was the only place where anybody could go. 
 
 The International Hotel is most convenient to the railway 
 station on the Railway Plaza ; a large fireproof building in 
 Spanish ^Mission style, completed in 1912, and affording all 
 modern conveniences. The smaller hotels on the Avenida 
 Central may be patronized by those to whom the saving of a 
 few dollars is important. The Hotel Metropole is pleasantly 
 situated on the Santa Ana Plaza. 
 
 A new and modern hotel, accommodating 500 persons, built
 
 PANAMA CITY 29 
 
 hy British capital on Chiriqui Point overlooking the bay, is 
 the newest addition to the hotels of Panama. 
 
 Sight-seeing may begin from the Tivoli or International 
 with a walk or ride down the Avenida Central, which goes 
 first in a rather soutlierly direction, but in town when cross- 
 ing the plaza about east and west. The northern part of the 
 town is rather new, belonging to the Canal period, French and 
 American. On the right at some little distance a three- 
 story white concrete building, very ornate, with broad portico, 
 is the club house of the Spanish Benevolent Society. Next 
 door is the American Consulate. Two blocks farther is the 
 Plaza Santa Ana, with trees, plants, and walks, where on 
 Thursday nights there is a band concert and hundreds of 
 people promenading. Besides the Church, there are saloons, 
 a Variety Theater with roof garden, promenade balcony, and 
 fine interior decorations, erected 1911-12, and on the west 
 side the ]\retro{)ole Hotel. On the road, one block south of 
 the plaza, leading west to Balboa is the Santo Tomas Hos- 
 pital, with 350 beds, under the direction of an American doc- 
 tor with good nurses and physicians, maintained l)y the 
 Panama Government. The three cemeteries are beyond, one 
 each for Chinese, Hebrews, and Christians. Tragic tales are 
 told of the yellow fever days, and space for burial is still 
 leased. 
 
 Three blocks from the Plaza on the Central avenue is the 
 Church of La Merced. Diagonall}" across from it is a piece 
 of the old wall formerly extending from tidewater on one 
 side to the other. One should climb the steps to get an idea 
 of the walls, the cost of which caused wonder to the King 
 of Spain. This was one of the bastions commanding the 
 drawbridge and the sahanas or plains to the north. Here 
 the youth now play tennis, and a circus encamps once a year. 
 The area is at least 1500 square feet, and there is a diop (»f 
 from 30 to 35 feet to the level outside. A parapet 3 
 feet high still shows the embrasures for the brass cannon. The 
 old wall extending to the south had rock faces with earth be- 
 tween. 
 
 Beyond this wall is the real city, moslly of natives, with 
 its own peculiar spirit aiul fascinalidn. They always come 
 back, it is said, when ]»co|)l(' go awjiy. Iln-r in the narrow
 
 30 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 streets, plazas, churches, even stores, and on the old sea wall, 
 a spell is woven over those who linger, which has alluring 
 power. The Plaza Indcpendencia, three blocks from the wall, 
 is the heart of the city, a charming place, with the Cathedral 
 on the west, the Central Hotel east, the Bishop's Palace north, 
 and the IMunicipal Building and the French Administration 
 Building on the south. The last, four stories high, was built 
 in 1875 as a hotel, but leased to the French and used for 
 offices. The Americans took possession of it May 4, 1904, but 
 finding it to be infested with the stegomia mosquitoes dur- 
 ing the yellow fever epidemic in 1905, it was abandoned by 
 them in 1906 when the Chief Engineer moved to Culebra, 
 It is now occupied by the health and municipal bureaus of 
 Panama and by their printing office. 
 
 The new Municipal Building, on the site of the old cahildo, 
 council chamber, in which independence was declared in 1821, 
 was completed in 1910 and is called the handsomest building 
 in the city. Here are various offices, the Coiumbus Library 
 W'ith valuable historical works, a marble bacchante in the cor- 
 ridor, and a front door of a dozen varieties of native hard 
 w^oods. 
 
 The Bisliop's Palace erected 1880, besides his residence, 
 offices, and a boys' school, has in one corner the office of the 
 Panama Lottery. Though gambling is prohibited by the 
 Panama Constitution, the lease of the company is good till 
 1918. Every Sunday morning drawings are made for prizes 
 ranging from $1.00 to $3500, taken from 10,000 tickets. It 
 is said that most of the money comes from the Canal workers. 
 The offices of several of the steamship companies are on the 
 Plaza, but that of the Peruvian Line is on 11th street near 
 Central avenue. 
 
 Continuing on the Central avenue, passing on the right the 
 French consulate and the American Legation, one reaches the 
 National Palace or Government Building on the left, occupy- 
 ing a whole square, with a central patio. The Assembly Halls 
 and offices are on the south side, the National Theatre on the 
 north and various Government offices on the sides. Begun in 
 1905 it was finished in 1908. It is of the modified Italian 
 renaissance style and is said to be fireproof. The handsome 
 theater seats 1000 people. There is a week or two of opera
 
 pana:ma city 31 
 
 and of theater every year. Other entertainments are occa- 
 sionally held, and public meetings of a non-political nature. 
 
 The Plaza Bolivar, formerly San Francisco, is at the south- 
 east corner of the building, with the San Francisco Church and 
 Franciscan convent on the east side, the latter in ruins, de- 
 stroyed by fire in 1756 ; the former, also burned, was restored 
 1785-1790. The church is a basilica with a nave and two 
 aisles, the arches supported by square masonry pillars, and 
 with transept and apse. The high altar is wood painted to 
 imitate marl)le. A picture in a shrine at the left of the 
 entrance has a very definite representation of purgatory, with 
 a view of heavenly regions above. 
 
 The ruins of the old convent still show a fine row of arches. 
 "Within are wooden ])uildings now used as schools. 
 
 From the Central avenue going along the water front, one 
 will pass a Methodist Episcopal Church, parsonage, and school, 
 buildings of concrete erected in 1908. At the sea front is 
 the south bastion called The Sea ^YaU. Under the arches are 
 many dungeons once filthy, where thousands of criminals and 
 political suspects suffered and died. These are used no longer, 
 but the Chiriciui prison, suitably provided and clean, is here 
 located, partly in the large barrack building formerly occupied 
 by the garrison of soldiers. In the late afternoon or early even- 
 ing one should visit this interesting spot. Close by is the 
 new home of the University Cluh where some say the best 
 meals in Panama are served and the best collection of Eng- 
 lish books and periodicals is found. The library and read- 
 ing room with hardwood floor are sometimes cleared for danc- 
 ing. Tlie membership of two hundred includes one hundred 
 twen1y-(ive American employees and seventy-five residents 
 of Panama. Organized in 1906 for college men, the re- 
 striction was soon abandoned. 
 
 Two blocks from the Plaza Bolivar, keeping to the sea front, 
 is the home of the Union Club, a large white building from 
 the roof of which is a line view of Panama Pay. A swinuiiing 
 tank refilled at every tide is among its luxuries. 
 
 On the water front near this Club, at the foot of 5th street 
 which ]Kisses in front of the Hotel Central, is the Marine 
 BuUdhuj where passengers go aboard small boats to be rowed 
 out to siiips engaged in the coasting trade. Diagonally across
 
 32 Til 10 SOCTU A.MHRICAX TOUR 
 
 the street is the Prcsidrncia, a two-story Imildiiifr of Spanish 
 IMissioii style where the President of the Kepublic lives and 
 has his executive offices. 
 
 Two blocks along the front from the Presidencia there is a 
 steep incline wliere the old wall passed to the sea. On the 
 beach below, a market was established in 1877, now in a large 
 open building, where not only vegetables, fruits, meat, and 
 fish are sold, but lace and other commodities. Close by, 
 boats at high tide run up on the beach, saving expense of 
 lighterage. A visit to the market early in the morning is 
 well worth while, as the assemblage of people and of com- 
 modities, many of strange appearance, make this the most 
 picturesque place in Panama. On the way to the plaza 
 one may pass various shops, several Chinese, where bargain- 
 ing is possible, though most of the other stores have one price. 
 Woolens, silk, lace, and some other things are cheaper than 
 in the United States, and odd bits may be picked up by a 
 connoisseur. Panama hats are found cheaper than in the 
 United States, but may be purchased to better advantage in 
 Ecuador and Peru. A hammock, a kodak, films, anything for- 
 gotten or newly thought of may here be supplied. But if films 
 are purchased, be sure that they are dated nearly a year ahead 
 and are in sealed tin boxes. 
 
 The churches of Panama are not especially fine, but a few 
 should be visited. It would be needless to say that due re- 
 spect to the House of God should be shown by the removal 
 of the hat, and by courteous behavior, but for the astonish- 
 ing ill manners and rudeness displayed by some American 
 boors which have tended to make us unpopular with most 
 Latin Americans. If we are really so superior as some of us 
 fancy, it would be well to exhibit this by our good breeding. 
 To avoid shocking the prejudices of others, and in some cases 
 to do better than we would be done by will increase the pleas- 
 ure of a trip and pave the way for business advantage. 
 
 The Cathedral, though first of the churches designed, was 
 delayed in construction. A negro, Luna Victoria, becoming 
 Bishop in 1751, urged its completion, himself making liberal 
 contributions so that it was finished in 1760. The architec- 
 ture is of ^Moorish type with Spanish and American modifica-
 
 PANAMA CITY 33 
 
 tioiis; the style of two towers is used in many Spanish 
 American churches. The cathedral has a nave and four aisles, 
 an apse coiitaininfr the high altar of wood richly ornamented, 
 with two side altars and the episcojial tliroiie. An ohl paint- 
 ing representing the miracle of the Rosary is said to he a 
 Murillo. 
 
 The Church of San Felipe Xcri, with a tablet bearing the 
 words Neri Ao 1G88, on the eoi-ner of Avenue 15 and 4th sti-eet, 
 is said to be the oldest and perhaps tlie prettiest of tlie l*anama 
 churches. It is less gaudy or tawdry than some of the others. 
 An adjoining courtyard Avith a garden is surrounded by 
 houses of Sisters of Charity. At the corner of Avenue A and 
 3rd street are the ruins of the old Dotninican Church with a 
 little statue still standing over the entrance. The woodwork 
 was burned in the fire of 1756 and it was never rebuilt. One 
 of the arches was shattered in the earthquake of 1882. A 
 brick arch near the entranee, 50 feet wide with but 10 feet be- 
 tween the heights of spring and arch, is unusually flat. There 
 are otliers, in the San Francisco and Jesuit churches, of almost 
 the same style. 
 
 A church and convent school erected l)y the Jesuits 1749- 
 1751 was of little service, as the Order was expelled in 17G7. 
 In 1781 the wood of the structure was burned, but the ruins 
 are still of interest. The churches of La ]\Ierced and Santa 
 Ana contain little to invite attention, unless it l)e tlie efUgy 
 of the gentleman who provided the funds for tlie reeonstruc- 
 tiou in 1760 of the latter church and who was thereafter called 
 the Count of Santa Ana. 
 
 A visit to Ancon must certainly not be neglected. On its 
 edge is the Panama Xalional Inslihite opened in 1911, con- 
 sisting of seven buildings around a patio, including a gym- 
 nasium. This is to be the head of the educational system, but 
 at present is occupied with primary and secondary instruetion. 
 
 Ancon Hill is especially noted for the hospital, the buildings 
 of which were erected by the French soon after 1881. ^Vheu 
 Col. Gorgas and his assistants ai-rived in 1904 they were 
 pleased to find them in so excellent a condition with French 
 Sisters of St. Vincent still in charge. Many additions and im- 
 provements were made, but most of the twenty-three buildings
 
 •34 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 are still in use. "With crowding, 2000 patients may be ac- 
 commodated, but for the last five years the percentage of 
 licnltli has been remarkably good. Thanks to the skill and 
 cnicicney of Col. AV. C. (Jorgas, of the Regular Army, as Health 
 Officer, and to his corps of able assistants, yellow fever was 
 practically stamped out in 1906 and malaria diminished, by 
 the destruction of the mosquitoes, screening, etc. Swamps 
 were filled in, and the cities of Panama and Colon were to 
 some extent made over. Every street in Panama is now paved 
 with brick or macadam, all are Avell drained and provided with 
 sewers, and the dirtiest slum of the city is cleaner than many 
 middle class streets in most American cities, not to mention 
 New York. A good water supply is provided, and all these 
 improvements are being paid for by Panama from the water 
 rates. The Administration Building on one of the knolls at 
 the foot of the hill should be noted. There are located the 
 offices of the Sanitation Department, the Civil Administra- 
 tion, and the Commission Secretary. The Avemie of Royal 
 Palms leading up from the entrance to the hospital grounds 
 will be admired by every one, and those of botanical tastes 
 will enjoy spending a considerable time in the garden which 
 was begun by the Mother Superior, Sister Marie Rouleau, 
 and which has recently been catalogued by Col. ]\Iason. It 
 contains a fine collection of the plant life of the Isthmus, trees, 
 fruits, nuts, shrubs, and flowers. Persons not botanists will 
 find pleasure in examining many plants with familiar names, 
 some never seen before, others only in a hot house. The en- 
 ergetic individual will enjoy climbing to the top of the hill 
 which, 6G-i feet above the sea, affords a view of bay, islands, 
 city, and green hills, beautiful enough to reward even the 
 slothful : but near sunrise or sunset are the only suitable hours 
 for a climb in this temperature. 
 
 Old Panama. An excursion to Old Panama should be taken 
 if possible. In 1911 a road was constructed by the Panama 
 Government from the highway traversing Las Sabanas, to the 
 old city. Electric cars may be available for the excursion, as 
 well as carriage and automobile. Also one may go by launch 
 or horseback. Paths lead to the chief points of interest, — the 
 old bridges across the estuarv that extended on two sides
 
 PANAMA CITY 35 
 
 of the city, the tower seen from afar and the church of St. 
 Anastasius, the wells, and the walls and foundations of public 
 buildings. On the sea side is a hole in the wall where still 
 may be seen the old paved road leadino; into the water. At 
 high tide ships could come up to the city gate.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 STEAMSHIP LINES ON THE WEST COAST 
 
 Side Trip to Ecuador 
 
 Panama to Calloo and Valparaiso — The Pacific Steam Navigation 
 Company ; and Compafiia Sud-Amerieana de Vapores — each with 
 sailings alternate Mondays; the Comj^ania Peruana de Vapores — 
 sailings every Monday to Callao, alternate weeks calling at Guaya- 
 quil. 
 
 Panama to Guayaquil — The Pacific Steam Navigation Company — 
 two steamers weekly; one express direct, one accommodation, calling 
 at Colombia and Ecuador ports; the Comiiaiiia Peruana de 
 Vapores — the steamer fortnightly, direct. 
 
 Guayaquil to Callao — The Pacific Steam Navigation Company; 
 the Compailia Sud-Americana de Vapores — alternate sailings weekly 
 on Wednesday; the Compafiia Peruana de Vapores — fortnightly 
 sailings on Friday. 
 
 The traveler going southward from Panama to Callao or be- 
 yond has at present a choice of ships on three different lines : 
 Peruvian, English, and Chilian ; the second, often called the 
 P. S. N., now a branch of the Royal ]\Iail; the third, that of 
 the Compafiia Sud-Americana de Vapores. The through 
 ticket purchased in New York to a South American port, or a 
 roundtrip ticket, good on any of these lines, will not he ac- 
 cepted on the steamers for transportation. Being certificates 
 merel.v, they must be exchanged for tickets in Panama at the 
 c Tfiee of that steamship line by which one has decided to sail. 
 The cabin may there be selected and assigned. 
 
 As the boats vary in size and speed, individually, rather than 
 according to the line, travelers are apt to go by the first 
 steamer sailing after they are ready to depart ; yet some have a 
 preference and arrange their plans accordingly. Peruvians 
 and Chilians are likely to patronize their respective lines; 
 some English speaking people prefer the P. S. N. Others have 
 
 36
 
 WEST COAST STEA.MSIIIPS 37 
 
 a favorite sliip or capluiii. Since the chief officers on most 
 of the ships of all the lines are British, while the subordinates, 
 stewards, cabin boys, etc., are Spanish Americans, the dilfer- 
 ence is not striking, although the P. S. X. boats seem a triHe 
 more English, On these the menu is in English and Spanish 
 both, on the Chilian Line in Spanish only. The boats of the 
 Peruvian Line, newer and larger than some others, are pre- 
 fcrri'd by some Americans who have tried all of the lines. The 
 various steamers are lighted by electricity, the Peruvian have 
 also electric fans, for the use of which a charge of $1.00 is made 
 for the trip. Deck chairs cost $1.25. >\Iost of the ships on all 
 lines have on the ujiper deck a handsome salon with piano, card 
 tables, sofas, perhaps a fairly stocked book-case, a spacious 
 well-furnished dining-room, and a large comfortable smok- 
 ing room, besides considerable space for deck golf and other 
 sports. The Peruvian steamers have on this deck four cabins 
 at a price ten per cent higher than those ])elow. The cal)ins 
 in general are on the second deck, all opening on an outside 
 passage with door and window, each furnished with blinds. 
 On my first voyage I provided myself with mosquito netting, 
 as advised, especially for the trip to Guayaquil; but never had 
 occasion to use it. In the rainy season, from December to 
 June, one would be indispensable for the tourist visiting 
 Ecuador, but is superfluous at any time to one going directly 
 to Peru. j\leal hours vaiy slightly on the different steamers, 
 but all serve coffee with toast or rolls in cabin or dining-room 
 fi'oni 6.30 to 8.30 a. m. Formerly condensed milk was the 
 accompaniment. Persons who disliked tliis were happier 
 if they pi-ovided themselves in New York with a few five 
 cent cans of the evaporated. On the East Coast the* ships 
 appear to have regular milk, and it may now be provided 
 on the West. The hours of the meals are at the pleasure 
 of the captains; on the English boats generally break- 
 fast is at nine or half past, on the others it may be at ten 
 or eleven: luncheon is served at 1, 1.30, or 2 p. m., diiuier 
 at 6, 6.30, or 7. Some ships have afternoon tea at four, 
 otiiers have tea at 8.30 or !) p. m. lireakfast, in Spanish, 
 ahinicrzo, begins with cazuela, a kind of .soup, which is fol- 
 lowed by fish, entrees, eggs, beefsteak, etc.: at luncheon there 
 are cold disiies only, meats and salad, except for hot potntoes, 
 
 45<>o?l
 
 38 'J' I IK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tea, and coffee. The dinner resembles breakfast, but has a dif- 
 ferent kind of soup, while roasts and sweets are served at this 
 meal only. As many of the ships are unprovided with cold 
 storage, the meat, eaten the day after it is killed, is often 
 tough. For this reason tlie boiled meats and the South Amer- 
 ican dishes generally are apt to be better than the roasts ; that 
 is, if you like them. It is well to have a try, for many are 
 really good. Of fruit, oranges and bananas are always in 
 evidence, sometimes melons, and paltas (alligator pears or 
 aguaeate), which as salad are verj' fine. 
 
 Balboa, the place of embarkation, formerly called La Boca, 
 is ten or fifteen minutes by rail from the Panama station. Its 
 present name, in honor of the discoverer of the Pacific, dates 
 from April 30, 1909, when, adopting the suggestion of Hon. 
 Alfonzo Pezet, then Peruvian IMinister to Panama, Colonel 
 Goethals issued a circular with the mandate that La Boca 
 should in future be known as Balboa. 
 
 Before embarking for the south, it is important to look up 
 one's baggage and see that it is put on board the ship by 
 which one is about to' sail. Baggage Avhich is checked through 
 to Callao or elsewhere will probably be brought over to this 
 port and remain in the baggage room until it is pointed out by 
 the owner and the ship is designated on which he will sail. 
 This is an absolute necessity. Otherwise it might be sent 
 on an earlier or a different steamer, when, with no one to look 
 after it and pay for its transport to land, it might Gail up and 
 down the coast a year or two, or until the ship people de- 
 cided to dump it in the ocean. Hence, always, look after 
 your baggage, throughout the entire trip. Failing in care, 
 you are likely never to see it more. Ample time should be 
 allowed for the purpose, and no harm will be done if, at the 
 Panama station, you investigate to see if by chance your bag- 
 gage has been left there instead of at the Balboa dock. 
 
 A matter by no means to be overlooked before embarka- 
 tion is the procuring of Peruvian money, silver and gold for 
 use on the steamer and in landing. English sovereigns and 
 half sovereigns, equal to 10 and 5 soles, will do as well as Pe- 
 ruvian coins of the same value; but one should have silver 
 coins as well, a sol equaling 48i/^. cents. Exchange will be 
 made at the banks or by money changers in Panama.
 
 SIDE TKIP TO ECFADOR 39 
 
 Tourists will generally einl)ark at Balboa for Peru ; but 
 Colombia and Ecuador may be included in the tour if de- 
 sired. Two steamers sail for Guayaquil, one express, mak- 
 ing no calls en route, tlie otbcr, cahhro, or as we slicnild 
 term it, if a train, accommodation, calling at varicms ports 
 in Colombia and Ecuador. From Buenaventura in Colombia 
 the capital, Bouota, may be visited, a city charmingly situated, 
 with a delightful climate, containing many cultivated people 
 and luxurious homes, yet by any route a tedious journey from 
 the sea. From Call which the railroad nearly reaches, a 
 town five hours by rail from Buenaventura, it is eight or ten 
 days on mule or horseliack. Few at present will undertake 
 the trip except for business or scientific research. 
 
 Quito, the capital of Ecuador, far more accessible, and 
 oftener visited, will yet be omitted by the majority ; not be- 
 cause there is nothing to see, but because one with limited 
 time for the tour will content himself with scenes of more or 
 less similar character on the direct line of the journey. jNIore- 
 over the reputation of the port of Guayaquil as a hot bed 
 of yellow fever, to say nothing of bubonica, leprosy, and small- 
 I)ox is such that most persons prefer to give it a wide berth. 
 Formerly there W'as mutual recrimination between Guayaquil 
 and Panama, each asserting that the yellow fever was im- 
 ported from the other city ; but now the ease is clear. Panama 
 Jias long had a clean bill of health, while Guayaquil (1912) was 
 as bad as ever, if not worse. Some years ago our American 
 Dr. Lloyd attempted to clean up the place, but on aeeount 
 of insufficient funds and authority succeeded in acc()nq)lishing 
 little beyond getting the yellow fever himself. As a good 
 ])art of the city lies low by the river's edge, the i)roblem seems 
 diihcult ; yet with sufficient money its sanitation may be ac- 
 complished. If the present plans of the Ecuadorian Govern- 
 ment are carried out, Guayaquil may some time be again on 
 the same plane of healtli as Panama. Should one meanwhile 
 be disposed to venture probably no harm would befall. Dr. 
 Paker, then American Consul at (iuayaquil, stated (Deeem- 
 ber, 1912) that the city may safely be visited from June 1 to 
 October 1, but not at other times. 
 
 Those jicrsons then who desire to visit (^>uito, the e(nial(»rial 
 city, to see far famed Chimbora/.o, and ("otopaxi, the loftiest
 
 4Q THE SOUTH A.MKUICAN TOUR 
 
 of active volcanoes, Avill risk a short stay in Guayaquil, and 
 will thus proceed. 
 
 On the third morning, after leaving Panama, on express 
 steamer for Guayaquil, one is likely to find his ship anchored 
 at the quarantine station, Puna, on an island at the mouth of 
 the Guayas River. It is a pleasant sail north, up this broad 
 stream, the most important in South America flowing into the 
 Pacific Ocean. The low green shores are heavily fringed with 
 trees or bushes. Ridges and peaks of blue will presently ap- 
 pear, possibly the snow-crowned Chimborazo, but this on rare 
 occasions on account of incessant clouds. 
 
 Guayaquil, a few hours from Puna, appears from the steam- 
 er's deck a pretty place, stretching several miles along the 
 river front, a city of 75,000 inhabitants. The buildings made 
 of wood, plastered over to resemble marble, look quite im- 
 posing. There is a cathedral and other churches, and good 
 public buildings; a Club, the Union, called by one globe-trot- 
 ter the second best he had seen in the tropics another con- 
 siders ordinary. Worth visiting are the pretty plazas with 
 rare and luxuriant vegetation, the market, and a great hos- 
 pital on the hill above the town, fitted with modern appliances, 
 and comparing favorablj^, one says, with the Ancon Hospital 
 at Panama. 
 
 The swift current of the river is noticeable, the strong tide 
 running rapidl}^ six hours each, up and down. Small boats, 
 taking advantage of this, may thus go with slight effort in 
 either direction, but with hard labor if the tide is adverse. 
 INIuch used are the native halsas, made of tree trunks, five, 
 seven, or nine lashtd together, many with small houses upon 
 them. With balsas they even venture upon the ocean as 
 far as Paita. Panama hats are here purchasable; these with 
 cocoa and ivory nuts are among the chief exports of the 
 country. 
 
 To make the journey to Quito one must cross from Quaya- 
 quil by boat to Duran, the railway terminal on the other side 
 of the river, whence a railroad leads 297 miles to the capital 
 city. The fare from Guayaquil is $17.40 each way. Depart- 
 ing from Duran Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 6.30 a. m., 
 the train arrives at 6.30 p. m. at Riobamaba, where the night 
 is spent at the Grand Central Hotel, price one or two dollars.
 
 SIDE TRIP TO ECUADOR 41 
 
 Leaving Riobain])a at 6.40 a. m. one arrives at Quito at four. 
 Each day a halt is made for the noon meal at a way station. 
 The train, at first passing among great sugar estates, then 
 ascending gradually tlu-ough a luxuriant troiiical region, pres- 
 ently reaches the higher temperate zone Mliere by contrast 
 the night will seem decidedly chill. At 4000 or 5000 feet the 
 way seems barred by lofty hills, but the American construct- 
 ing engineer cut in the face of the granite a zigzag path with 
 switchbacks of four levels making a rise to 90(J0 feet. After 
 some distance through volcanic country, a similar cul-de-sac 
 is surmounted by a similar switchback with a seven per cent 
 grade to the Pass of Palmyra, 12,000 feet. "Wastes of sand 
 and shirting grass, resembling a sea-coast, are an unexpected 
 variety in the scenery. 
 
 Descending gradually to Cajabamba, 11,000 feet, one passes, 
 the first afternoon, splendid Chimhorazo, still supposed by 
 many to be the highest mountain in America, a great mistake, 
 as its altitude is only 20,498 feet, more than that of ^U. ^Ic- 
 Kinley, but over 2000 feet less than that of Aconcagua, on the 
 border of Chile and Argentina, the highest measured mountain 
 on the AVestern Hemisphere. ^Moreover, this tallest of the 
 Ecuadorian Andes is surpassed by fifty or more peaks farther 
 south; among tlu'se, lluascaran and Coropuna in Peru, 111am- 
 pu, Illimani, and Sajama in Bolivia. The first ascent of Chim- 
 horazo, made in 1880 by Edward AVhymper with two Swiss 
 guides, was at the time considered a wonderful feat. The 
 same year AVhymper ascended the active volcano, Cotopaxi, 
 19,613 feet, farther east and nearer to Quito. Near Caja- 
 bamba are a few remains of ancient Inca edifices. 
 
 Beyond Kiobam])a, a little fai'ther on, the road the second 
 day goes lower to Ambato, 8000 feet, a town in a deep basin 
 with a delightful climate, headquarters for trade with the 
 Oriente. A broad sterile plain is crossed near the foot of Co- 
 topaxi, a beautiful truncated cone, smoking continuously. 
 Above the snow "clad slopes, a gray and white cloud is formed 
 in the shape of an enormous branching tree, which at length 
 breaks off and floats away. Near the snow line of the volcano 
 is a huge mass of rock called the Inca's heatl. said to have 
 been the oi-iginal summit of the mountain, torn olf and hurled 
 below on the day of the execution of the Inca, Atahualli)a.
 
 42 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Beyond tlio Pass Chasqni is llu; chMnning srccn valley ]\Iao;h- 
 aclii. In a bowl shaped depression entered by three gateways, 
 through one of which the railroad passes, crossing a bridge 
 over the INIachangara River, is found the white, but red-roofed 
 city, the capital famed as lying under the equator; it is within 
 a quarter of a degree. 
 
 Quito. ]>eautifully situated among the mountains at an alti- 
 tude of 9600 feet, Quito enjoys a climate as delightful as the 
 prospect. In former days travelers have united their admira- 
 tion for the scenery with groans over the accommodations pro- 
 vided. It is said that good hotels now exist, the Royal Palace, 
 the Hotel de Paris, Hotel Americano, and Casa Azul. The 
 city has a population of 75,000, including many charming and 
 cultivated Spanish Americans, and more Indians, 
 
 On the principal plaza are handsome government and 
 municipal buildings, the cathedral, and the bishop's palace. 
 Among many beautiful churches and convents is the Jesuits' 
 church, the interior superb in scarlet and genuine gold. The 
 temperature of Quito averaging 60°, ranging from 50° to 
 70° only, is comfortable enough to make exercise desirable, 
 and variety is easily attained. A half day's journey will 
 bring one to a deep sultry valley with tropical vegetation ; 
 hence every kind of fruit and vegetable is in the market. 
 Or four hours will take one to a region of eternal frost. And 
 thither every one should go, for from the top of iMt. Pichin- 
 cha, 16,000 feet, at the foot of which is Quito, may be had 
 a splendid view of twenty snow-clad peaks, from 15,000 to 
 20,000 feet in height.
 
 / 
 
 CHAPTER Vr 
 ON THE AVAY TO CALLiVO 
 
 On hoard ship at the Balhoa docks, recently enlarfred hy 
 the Uuited States Government, tlie surroundings at high tide 
 are beautiful. On three sides are green wooded hills, some 
 of which miglit almost be dignified as mountains. The wide 
 stream coming down at the northwest is the Pacific entrance 
 to the Canal. Below are pretty islands to one of which, Naos, 
 the breakwater, three and a quarter miles long, now extends. 
 At low tide, when the water has fallen 18 feet, as it does twice 
 in the twenty-four hours, an ugly expanse of flats is visible on 
 each side of the channel. Should one spend the night here, 
 he may be so fortunate as to see the sun or moon rise, not set, 
 from the Pacific Ocean; so far west is Panama City of the 
 western shore of South America, at least of Colombia, for the 
 Isthmus runs east and west instead of north and south. 
 
 As the steamer leaves the dock, one should linger in the 
 stern of the vessel to look back at the charming picture. 
 Thus standing and gazing rearwards, the city of Panama will 
 soon appear on the right, finely situated on a promontory with 
 water oil three sides, thus with excellent opportunities for 
 drainage, and now as healthy a city as may be found in the 
 Torrid Zone, surpassing in this particular many of those in 
 temjierate climes. 
 
 The Peaceful Ocean will gently " Rock the Cradle of the 
 Deep" and the voyage will be a pleasure. Formerly ten days 
 to Callao, it is now six or seven. The weather is warm, with 
 sunnner clothes in order, probably until Paita is reached; 
 so warm that enthusiasts only will care for the vigorous 
 exercise of deck golf, yet not uncomfortably hot. The cross- 
 ing of the equator is made without ceremony: even with 
 careful inquiry it is difficult to ascertain just when the eipii- 
 noctial line is passed. The Pole star has vanished, yet in 
 
 43
 
 44 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 our summer months a part of the constellation of the Dipper, 
 still above the horizon, may be recognized far down the coast. 
 With no sight of land for three days, there will be time 
 on this tranquil sea to brush up our Spanish, or if we have 
 none to brush, at least to pick up a few words and phrases. 
 Or there is opportunity for a brief review of South Amer- 
 ican history. Prescott perchance is in the library, or other 
 books, historical or descriptive, of the various countries to 
 be visited. That we see only what we are prepared to see 
 is an old saying, as true of South America as of Europe. 
 A slight knowledge of South American history and of present 
 conditions will illumine the journey, increasing both pleasure 
 and profit. A course of reading at home and a little study of 
 Spanish will bring infinite reward. For those who have neg- 
 lected this, brief allusions to facts of history, geography, etc., 
 will be scattered here and there. 
 
 A Bit OF History 
 
 Every one has heard of the Ineas and of the conquest of Peru 
 by PizaiTo, but a few particulars of the remarkable subjugation of 
 a great people will here be recalled. As early as 1524 Francisco 
 Pizarro, incited by rumors at Panama of a country at the south 
 marvellously rich in gold, for the purpose of exploration only, 
 made his first expedition to Peru. Landing at Tumbes on the 
 south shore of the Gulf of Guayaquil, he found an opulent city, 
 whence he proceeded along the coast as far as Trujillo. Satisfied by 
 this reconnoissance as to the great Avealtli of the countiy, he was 
 obliged to return to Spain to procure royal wai'rant for the in- 
 vasion. This gained he set out from Panama iu Januaiy, 1531, 
 upon his extraordinary career of conquest. Partners m his ad- 
 venture were Diego de Almagro and a priest, Hernando de Luque. 
 
 Again landing at Tumbes he advanced overland southward and 
 in a fertile valley founded the present city of Piura. Some months 
 were here passed, a vain delay for remforcements; Pizarro mean- 
 while learning of the quarrel between the two Inea princes, the 
 brothers Atahuallpa and Huascar, and that the former, victorious, 
 was now Avith a large retinue, ten daj's' journey from Piura, at the 
 town of Cajamarea whither he had gone to take the baths. 
 
 To attempt the conquest of a great empire with an army of less 
 than 200 men seems preposterous indeed, but the bold, one would 
 say insane, Pizarro, had he not succeeded, at length set out with 
 180 men, 67 of whom were cavalry. However, these last were
 
 ON THE WAY TO CALLAO 45 
 
 equivalent to a mighty host ; ior horses, never before seen in this 
 country, struck terror to the stoutest hearts. It was a hard inarch 
 across the desert, then up over the great coast range of the Andes 
 down to the longitudinal valley in which Cajauiarca is situated. 
 On the way they were met by messengers bearing royal gifts, with 
 an invitation to visit the powerful ruler of this inunense empire. 
 Through narrow defiles where a larg:e force might easily have been 
 annihilated, the little army was permitted to march in safety. 
 Upwards in bitter cold and rarefied air they toiled to a height of 
 12,000 feet or more until they looked down upon a beautiful valley, 
 a prosperous city, and the camp of a great army. 
 
 With bold faces if quaking hearts they descended, November 15, 
 1532, to the city which they found deserted: that better acconuuoda- 
 tions, it was said, might be furnished to the distinguished guests. 
 The next day, accepting the invitation of Pizarro that he should 
 dine with him, Atahuallpa with a large retinue, unarmed, came in 
 royal state to the Plaza. In place of the courteous greeting from 
 PizaiTo which was here due, a priest. Father Valverde, came for- 
 ward. Having expounded the chief doctrines of the Christian re- 
 ligion he thereupon demanded the Inca's allegiance to the Pope and 
 to the Emperor Charles V. Upon Atahuallpa's indignant rejection 
 of this piece of bold and insolent presumption, Valverde called on 
 Pizarro to make an assault. The signal was given, guns boomed, the 
 cavalry charged upon the defenseless throng. Instead of the hos- 
 pitality that had been proffered there was a scene of terrible 
 slaughter. The Inca was seized and imprisoned, after which a ran- 
 som was arranged. The collection for this purpose of more than 
 $15,000,000 worth of gold dishes, plate, and other objects was fol- 
 lowed by a second act of perfidy. Accused of various crimes, Ata- 
 huallpa, instead of being released, was condemned to be burned at 
 the stake; or if he would consent to embrace Christianity to have 
 the easier death of strangulation. This he chose. Thus the courtly 
 monarch of this highly civilized empire, one of the first on that con- 
 tinent to be baptized (revolting mockery) into the Christian faith, 
 was ignominionsly put to death after the most shameless betrayal of 
 the rites of hospitality, the most brutal treacheiy, to be found on 
 the pages of histoiy. 
 
 Thus was accomplished the conquest of Peru. The Inca exe- 
 cuted, his humble subjects made but little and sj^oradic resistance. 
 Cuzco, the capital city, was visited and strij)i)ed of many of its 
 treasures. For the conciliation of the i)opuhu'e, ^fanco, a younger 
 brother of Atahuallpa, was crowned; but the real ])t)wer was ])la»'ed 
 in the hands of one of Pizarro's brothers. 
 
 Francisco then descended to the coast and on .laniiary (>, 1535,
 
 46 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 founded on the banks of the Rimac a capital which he named City 
 of the Kings in honor of the Epiphany, although Lima, a corruption 
 of Rimac, is the title by which it has been called. Such a beginning 
 was naturally followed by a period of dissensions and murders, 
 which lasted twenty years. For nearly three centunes a Spanish 
 Viceroy ruled over the country, until in 1824, at Ayacucho on the 
 highlands of Peru, the last battle of independence was fought, the 
 whole of South America was liberated from the domination of Spain, 
 and the realms of the Inca became free to develop a new civilization. 
 
 Panama to Salaverry. For three days after leaving 
 Panama the ship is out of sight of land, which is again ap- 
 proached near the northern extremity of Peru. This coast 
 is nnlike that of any other country in the world, to the unini- 
 tiated presenting a series of surprises. The first is the climate, 
 which in the Torrid Zone one naturally expects to be hot, at 
 least at sea level. On the East Coast of South America this 
 is the case, but not on the West after reaching Peru. Pan- 
 ama, Colombia, and Ecuador have ordinary tropical weather, 
 continuous heat with plenty of rain and luxuriant vegetation. 
 Peru is in striking contrast. From Paita, 5° south of the 
 equator, throughout the journey of 1200 miles along the coast, 
 all within the tropics, the weather is so cool at least half of 
 the year that exercise is a pleasure, while wraps and steamer 
 rugs are frequently desirable. Of this moderate temperature 
 the chief cause is the Antarctic or Humboldt current, which 
 flows along the coast from the South Polar regions until, at 
 Point Parifia, the western extremity of South America, it 
 meets a hot stream and both turn westward across the Pacific. 
 The proximity to the sea of the lofty range of the Andes also 
 contributes to the coolness. 
 
 Another surprising phenomenon is the barren shore. The 
 entire coast for 2000 miles, from Tumbes, to Cociuimbo in 
 Chile, is a genuine desert, save where, at considerable inter- 
 vals, the fifty-eight streams in Peru, coming down from the 
 mountains, afford opportunity for irrigation. The lack of 
 verdure in Peru is not occasioned by the character of the soil ; 
 it arises simply from the absence of rain. 
 
 Paita. The fourth morning after leaving Panama the ship 
 is likely to be at anchor in the harbor of Paita, having passed 
 in the night the more northern Peruvian shore. Otherwise
 
 ox THE WAY TO CALLAO 47 
 
 one might from a distance perceive near Point Parina the 
 pipes and derricks of many oil wells. For the petroleum in- 
 dustry is important in Peru. In this Department, Piura, the 
 oil regions cover an area as large as Ilolhmd. It is said that 
 the petroleum is superior to that of the United States, having 
 little parafifine and no odor; that the kerosene gives a better 
 light, and that tlie crude oil may be employed as fuel after 
 merely standing a few days in the open air. For the last ten 
 years the oil has been tlius used in the locomotives of the 
 Oroya Railway; it is now similarly employed on the Peruvian 
 steamers. There is a great field for the development of the 
 industry in this and other districts of the country. 
 
 After several days on board ship most of the passengers 
 improve the opportunity of going ashore. The. regular fare 
 as at other ports is forty ccnlavos (twent}' cents) each way 
 for each person. Paita is a curious place, a small village, yet 
 the third port in Peru in the amount of exports and imports, 
 serving a considerable district including the city of Piura, 
 with which it is connected by a railroad of standard gauge. 
 The walls of the houses are of bamboo, set perpendicularly, 
 some overspread with plaster often partly peeled off, others 
 destitute of covering. Climbing the hills back of the town 
 you will perceive a genuine desert, in the distance fi-inged 
 by low mountains. "Paita," said the Captain on my lirst 
 voyage in 1903, "is the dryest place on earth." From its 
 appearance I "was not inclined to dispute the fact, but having 
 heard that it rains there once in seven years and in Icpiicjue 
 not at all I in(iuired how this might be. "That is easy," 
 replied the Captain. " In Iquique there are heavy dews, here 
 nothing, and now it has skipped one shower and it is almost 
 fourteen years since it has rain<'d." This was no idle jt'st. 
 The drought continued until Febi-uai-y, lillO, wiien there was 
 a heavy shower, the first in nineteen years. There are no 
 wells, hence all water is brought by rail and sparingly used ; 
 therefore there is no green. The town of Piura, on the con- 
 trary, 60 miles distant, is in an ii-rigatt'd valley whci-e tlie 
 finest cotton is a staple i)roduction and where new irrigation 
 canals are increasing the possibilities for dgrieulture. A few 
 miles farther is CaNtcaos, where lialf of the 20.000 inhabitants 
 are engaged in making the 200,000 Pananut hats here annually
 
 48 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 produced. While Ecuador is the chief seat of the industry, 
 hats may be purchased at Paita to better advantage than at 
 Guayaquil. The natives Avho come on board ship bring 
 various articles for sale, paroquets, mocking-birds, fruit, pot- 
 tery, ancient and modern, as well as the Panama hats. These 
 of good quality may be purchased at from $2.00 to $12 or 
 $15 gold, the latter of the Montecristi quality, all at about 
 one-fourth of the price commonly asked for a similar article 
 in New York. The best are rarely found in the United States 
 at any price. 
 
 Some day Paita wdtli its excellent harbor will become a 
 port of great importance. A railroad 400 miles long is planned 
 and has been surveyed to Melendez on the ^Maranon, the larger 
 of the two rivers (the other, the Ucayali) uniting to form the 
 Amazon. Crossing the Andes in one of its lowest sections, 
 where a short tunnel at 5000 feet altitude will serve instead 
 of the long ones, above 10,000 and 15,000 feet, through the 
 mountains farther south, this road will bring the rubber coun- 
 try in the neighborhood of Iquitos, the chief port on the upper 
 Amazon, within two weeks of New York, instead of the four 
 or five weeks by way of Para. On this route, too, are said to 
 be millions of tons of iron, as well as coal and other minerals. 
 
 On leaving Paita, if not before, the tourist will be likely 
 to feel the need of heavier underwear. The air in winter is 
 damp and chilly. The temperature in my cabin was 60°. 
 At this season clouds generally conceal the sun, making a 
 gloomy sea, and the little patches of blue sky are small. 
 
 Eten, the next port, 161 miles farther south, the ship is 
 likely to reach the next morning. An iron pier 2000 feet 
 long is noticeable, though a good distance away. Callao is the 
 only seaport below Panama having docks which may bo 
 approached by large ships. The slope of the beaches is so 
 gradual that even for the use of the lighters long piers are 
 necessary. Eten has an especially poor anchorage, an open 
 roadstead where there is often a moderate swell, so that the 
 passing traveler seldom goes ashore. Frequently passengers 
 must be taken on board by means of a sort of barrel or hogs- 
 head destitute of one side. One person sits, another stands 
 on the edge. Thus they are raised with windlass, chain, and 
 pulley, and gently deposited on deck.
 
 ON THE WAY TO CALLAO 49 
 
 Pacasmayo, .'34 miles farther, is usually visited the same 
 day. Tliis is quite a town with a railroad ruiiuiug 85 miles 
 up country, some day to l)e ])rolonged to Cajamarca, now 
 rather difficult of access. 
 
 The coast presents for the most part a study in browns, 
 diversified by occasional patches of green, the size of which 
 varies with that of the stream coming down from the moun- 
 tains and the extent of irrigation in the valley. The great 
 mountain range is surprisingly near the sea. There are 
 indeed foothills, and in the northern and southern sections of 
 Peru, back of the liigli lilull's which generally line the coast, 
 a plain stretches away to lofty mountains. These, however, 
 are near enough to be always in sight if it were not for another 
 peculiarity of this rainless coast, the low clouds or mist which 
 too often conceal or ol).scure them. Along the central portion 
 of I'eru beginning with Salaverry, the mountains come down 
 to the shore in many bold headlands and are sometimes so 
 disposed as to present an appearance of several ranges of 
 varying altitudes, the rearmost, a frowning almost perpen- 
 dicular black wall, whicli, back of Chimliote and Samanco, 
 rises to the extraordinary height of 15,000 to 18,000 feet. 
 Rarely, a snow-crowned summit is there seen peeping over a 
 depression in the Black Range, the north peak of the great 
 Iliuismrdn, 21,812 feet above the sea, first ascended in 1908 
 ])y ]\Iiss Annie S, Peck with two Swiss guides. At present 
 Iluaseariin is called the second highest measured mountain in 
 America, but it is far more difficult to climb than Aconcagua, 
 now hokling fii-st place. Had one a clear view of these great 
 ranges, the voyage to the mountain lover would be of real 
 fascination. As it is, the long halts at the various ports to 
 discharge and receive freight become a trifle monofonous. 
 No doubt in time there will be through service with direct ox- 
 press to Callao from Panama.
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 SALAVERRY— CHAN CHAN— CHIMBOTE— 
 THE HUAILAS VALLEY 
 
 Salaverry, 66 miles from Pacasmayo, is usually reached 
 duriii"' the night. At this port a few tourists may be tempted 
 to disembark, perhaps with two objects in view; one to visit 
 the ancient city of Chan Chan, the flourishing city of Trujillo, 
 and the great sugar plantations of the valley; the other, for 
 the purpose of transferring to the caletero boat, in order to 
 land at Chimbote or Samanco, thence to visit the Huailas Val- 
 ley to admire its magnificent scenery, including the peerless 
 Huascaran. For the slight discomfort or fatigue which may 
 be experienced on such a trip, one will receive ample re- 
 ward. 
 
 Salaverry, with one or two hundred houses on the desert 
 shore, is a port merely, near a bold bluff which helps to make 
 a fair harbor. A great quantity of sugar from the Chicama 
 and Santa Catalina Valleys is the chief export. 
 
 Trujillo, eight miles by rail from the harbor, is a pretty city 
 of 10,000 people. Founded by Pizarro in 1535 near the ruined 
 capital of the Grand Chimu, it is one of the most aristocratic 
 of Peruvian cities. First among these to proclaim independ- 
 ence, December 22, 1820, the Department received from 
 Bolivar the name La Libertad. Trujillo possesses a pretty 
 shaded plaza, fashionable for the evening promenade, several 
 convents, and interesting churches, one of which, the San 
 Agustin, is noteworthy on account of the excellent carving 
 and rich gilding of the pulpit and the high altar. It has a hos- 
 pital, a university, a club, a hippodrome, a theater, and three 
 daily papers; also, most important to the traveler, a respect- 
 able but far from luxurious hotel providing rooms, while fair 
 meals may be procured at a Chinese restaurant close by. 
 
 Sugar Estates. Well worth a visit are the splendid sugar 
 estates up the Chicama Valley, Casa Grande, Roma, Cartavio, 
 
 50
 
 SUGAR ESTATES AND CHAN CHAN 
 
 51 
 
 and others. The first, au liour 1)y rail IVoiu Trujillo, is said 
 to l)e the hn-frost sugar plaiitatiou in the world, coutaiuiug a 
 total pox)ulatiou of 11,000, cue-fourth of whieh is engaged iu 
 lahor iu the fields or mills. This valley, which in the time 
 of the Grand Chimu supported a great population, was in the 
 last century almost a barren desert up to 1873, when a German 
 visiting the valley discovered the ancient irrigating canal, 
 bought up laud, and soon made the desert blossom as the rose. 
 This vallfiiLJiro^ces rnn^p gn^Tiiv t)i,^ n the entire islancLj iL— 
 
 ^ Por to Rico, sugar of'the finest quality. In the temperate, 
 *^q'^"^^^^^^'~^^""iTr, ^l"^->'^TTTn-7rH piAnj-rtTTTTr.nqcf uiaturcs early, is 
 unusually rich in sugar, and may be cut all the year around. 
 It may be raised at a profit if sold at 1^4 cents a pound. The 
 estates have the best of machinery, and expert managers 
 who employ the latest and the most approved metiiods. 
 Churches, schools, and hospitals are provided. The dwellings 
 of the proprietors and superintendents contain most of the 
 conveniences and luxuries of modern life, including tele- 
 phones. The annual exi)ort of sugar from Salaverry amounts 
 to 50,000 tons, and from Huanchacho near by to half as much 
 more. Within 30 miles of Salaverry are also rich copper and 
 silver mines, far more accessible than those on the plateau 
 region above, and with a more agreeable climate. Their de- 
 velopment on a large scale will not long be delayed. 
 
 Chan Chan. The touristwho^is. not a p(>ssible jnv('stor- -ar 
 
 ^looking after commercial interests may rather turn his atten- 
 freat ruins Ilortli"~Df~Trw jillo o rruxa road 
 
 ■"tlTTeresTec^ 
 
 ,very crrrn 
 
 - tiquitieo oliou kl-^v4yrt"THe~rTiins of Clian Chan, the larg est aiid 
 , most importa nt of the dead cities ou our Mestern coast^! F(5r 
 a good ]>edestnan it is a moderate walk irom Trujilln. thmtytt— 
 a hoTse maywell ser\irthe majrrrtt^ — HmTTlie » J rand Chiiiiu 
 once ruled over the twenty northern valleys ot" the Peruvian 
 coast, from Tumbes on the north to Supe, well towards the 
 Rimac valley on the south. Here was a civilization entirely 
 distinct from that of the Incas, unliappily overtiirown by them 
 some four generations before the Conquest by Pizarro. A 
 fertile plain 90 miles long was watered from three rivers by 
 a remarkable system of in-igation. An aciueduct tapping the 
 Muchi River high up iu the mountains carried water across the
 
 52 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 valley on an emhankment 60 feet high. Remains of a great 
 reservoir hetvveen Trujillo and Casa Grande indicate a capacity 
 of two billion cul)ic i'eet of water. The city itself, open to 
 the sea, was protected on the east from land invaders by a 
 thick and lofty wall extending for miles along its borders. 
 That it was at last compelled to succumb to the Incas is believed 
 to be because tliese succeeded in diverting the water supply. 
 /^ The site of Chan Clum, once probably the largest city in 
 ( the New World, with an area of fifty or sixty square miles, is 
 \ now a melancholy spectacle. "What ruthless destruction has 
 '' been wrought ! What loss to the human race, through the 
 overthrow of ancient civilization, again and again followed by 
 relapses into partial or complete barbarism and toilsome prog- 
 ress upward ! Will people ever learn to moderate their greed 
 for wealth and power, and suffer others to dwell in peace after 
 their own fashion ! 
 
 For a cursory or careful inspection of the ruins a guide 
 should be employed, as wandering at random one may miss 
 or fail to understand the most important remains. In the 
 labyrinth of walls with various enclosures containing numer- 
 ous buildings, an immense mound is an occasional feature. 
 One built of stone and rubble, 150 feet high, called Obispo, 
 covers an area of 500 square feet. To the casual observer 
 the design would not be obvious. Originally the mounds were 
 in terraces, upon which buildings were erected with various 
 passages leading to store rooms or burial chambers in the in- 
 terior. With gardens around their base a splendid effect 
 must have been created. The Spaniards early searched these 
 mounds for treasure, with great success. From one called 
 the Toledo three million dollars are said to have been taken; 
 from the entire city $15,000,000. A broad lower mound 
 proved to be a cemetery, where in niches were found mum- 
 mies in elaborate garments of fine cotton adorned with gold 
 and silver. In the center is a structure doubtless for the per- 
 formance of the funeral rites. 
 
 The great palace of the Cliimu enclosed a large hall 100 by 
 5214 feet. Its walls, containing a series of niches, Avere covered 
 between with stucco relief work in arabesque patterns. Two 
 structures of unusual form are believed to be factories. Ar- 
 ranged around a square which had a reservoir in the center
 
 RUINS OF CHAN CHAN 53 
 
 were twenty-two recesses, probably for shops. Opening on 
 smaller courts and passages were one hundred and eleven 
 rooms, probably workshops for artificers in gold, silver, and 
 bronze, and for designers, dyers, potters, and weavers. "Won- 
 derful ornaments of gold and silver have been found, fine 
 textile fabrics, and most remarkable, the pottery, white, black, 
 and pale red, which in immense quantities has been taken 
 from the mounds called liuacas, a name applied also to the 
 objects. On the various specimens of this ceramic ware is 
 portrayed every kind of fish, bird, mammal, and fruit, with 
 which they were acquainted, also human beings, some in i)or- 
 traits, others as caricatures. There are groups engaged in 
 war dances, in harvesting, and in other occupations. Some 
 specimens of the pottery are said to be e(iual to any which has 
 been fashioned, from the best days of ancient Greece u|) to 
 the present time. Near the banks of the river IMuchi at the 
 south, stood a temple to the moon called Si An, where im- 
 portant religious cei-emonies and processions took place. 
 
 Evidently the Grand Chimu was a powerful monarch with 
 a magnificent court, ruling over subjects who lived in comfort. 
 Their language, IMochica, is little known, as the race is prac- 
 tically extinct. When conquered by the Incas they were 
 neither destroyed nor robbed of all their wealth. It was 
 Pizarro and his followers who, though amazed at the greatness 
 and beauty of the edifices, wantonly robbed and persecuted 
 the inhabitants until the country was laid waste. The people 
 and their civilization vanished and Avere forgotten. The 
 language, wholly different from the Quichua, gives no hint as 
 to the origin of the people. Neither does tradition lighten 
 the mystery, nor their art, which relates wholly to their en- 
 vironment, thougli beti"iying some similarity to ]\Iayo works. 
 An exhaustive study of the language and of the archa-o- 
 logical remains is required to reconstruct the histoiy of tliis 
 remarkable people whose ancestoi-s are believed to h;ivc dwelt 
 here long" befoi-e the Christian l^-a. 
 
 Moche. between the city of Trujillo and the port Salaverry 
 is an Indian town called .Moche, the inhabitants of which may 
 be remnants of this old race. They wear a distinctive dress, 
 are proud of their unmixed linejige, and do not intermarry 
 with others. The costume of the women, merely a chemise
 
 54 Tllli: SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 uilli a piece of dark blue cloth wrapped around the body and 
 fastened at the waist, to be seen anywhere in ]Moche, is not 
 allowed in Trujillo. 
 
 Continuing from Salaverry by express steamer, one arrives 
 the day followinfjr at Callao, a twenty-two liours' run. 
 
 Chimbote and the Huailas Valley. The tourist who desires 
 to behold the wonderful scenery of the Huailas Valley and 
 magnificent Huascaran, surely repaying a little trouble, at 
 present transfers at Salaverry to the weekly caletero boat for 
 Chimbote or Samaneo. "With the completion of the railway to 
 Caraz and beyond, promised within a year or two (as, alas! 
 since 1906), Chimbote will doubtless become a primary port, 
 receiving calls from the express steamers. When this hap- 
 pens, no one should omit the delightful railway journey of 135 
 miles to Yungay, at the foot of the great Huascaran. At the 
 moment, the trip may be enjoyed by the robust traveler, as 
 the three or four days' horseback ride into the valley involves 
 no hardship, save fatigue to those unwonted to such jour- 
 neys, and the spending of several nights in rather primitive 
 inns. 
 
 The harbor of Chimbote, by some called the finest on the 
 entire AYest Coast below Panama, is practically landlocked 
 by a peninsula and several islands. It has an area of about 
 36 square miles, without a single rock below its placid surface. 
 The usual pier extends from a sandy beach which affords 
 splendid bathing facilities; but docks, approachable by the 
 largest ships, could be arranged on one of the islands, which 
 a bridge across a 200-yard channel would easily connect with 
 the main land. The American capitalist, Henry ]Meiggs, the 
 prime mover in the construction of the South and Central 
 Peruvian Railways, had the foresight in the early seventies 
 to perceive the great business possibilities of the Chimbote 
 harbor, and planned the railway from Chimbote up the 
 valley of the Santa River and along the Huailas Valley to 
 Huaraz, 167 miles. A beginning was made, the road bed 
 was constructed for 80 miles, the rails were laid for 60, when 
 the Chilian war broke out. The invaders, having captured 
 Chimbote, carried off the rolling stock and supplies, and de- 
 stroyed whatever could not be removed. After the close of 
 the war, Peru being bankrupt, the project remained for some
 
 CHDIBOTE AND THE HUAILAS VALLEY 55 
 
 years in abeyance, during wiiich time the road was operated 
 only to Tablones, a distance of 35 miles. Under recent con- 
 cessions some work has been accomplished and the road is 
 now open 30 miles farther. It is expected that the Peruvian 
 Corporation, at present in control, will soon complete the line 
 to Kecuay, a little beyond lluaraz, when better accommoda- 
 tions for tourists will surely be provided. At present some 
 of the towns have no hotels Avhatever, while in others tiiose 
 existing are very poor. Happily the residents are most hos- 
 pitable, and strangers with letters of introduction, or in some 
 cases without, are agreeably entertained by some of the best 
 families. Naturally, with better facilities for travel this pleas- 
 ant custom will cease. At Chimbote the small and poor hotel 
 where I stayed in 1U06, if not already enlarged and improved, 
 will doubtless soon be superseded by a more adequate establish- 
 ment. Back of the town, together with a mound and walls 
 remaining from an ancient city, are vestiges of an aqueduct, 
 presumably constructed in Chimu days. AVhen these are re- 
 paired the desert plain near by, which bears an excellent soil, 
 will be fruitful enough to support the great city laid out 
 by Meiggs and expected to follow the completion of the rail- 
 road. This project was originally undertaken, not for the 
 purpose of conducting tourists to the splendid scenery of the 
 Iluailas Valle}', nor priniarily for the convenience of its present 
 large population and the export of its agricultural products. 
 The chief value of the railroad lies in its opening up the im- 
 mense coal fields of the region. Along the Santa River are 
 millions of tons of excellent coal, which some persons believed 
 worthless, because it is chiefly anthracite and semi-anthracite, 
 therefore non-coking; ignorant of the fact that except for 
 smelting purposes it is more valuable than soft coal. 
 
 This railroad has an advantage over the others leading into 
 the interior, in being able to follow the Santa River through 
 a cut in the Coast Range, instead of climbing 15.000 feet over 
 it. Thus by a moderate grade it will rcaeh the Huailas Valley. 
 A serious impediment to the construction is the narrow gorge 
 through the mountains, impracticable even for a pedestrian; 
 yet the difticulty will soon be overcome. After ten mih's on 
 the desert the road passes near sugar jilantations and liai-i.-n- 
 das. The region of coal deposits follows, extending through
 
 56 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the mountain range and up tlie two lateral valleys beyond, the 
 north in the direction of Cajaniarea, the south, the Iluailas 
 Valley, to Recuay. The passage of the sombre gorge will 
 be along the side of splendid cliffs with a foaming stream 
 below, a continuous spectacle of superb grandeur. Turning 
 south into the Huailas Valley, from one to four miles wide, 
 the traveler has the White Range on the east, the Black on 
 the west. The floor of the valley is beautiful with green fields 
 of alfalfa and vegetables, with vineyards, fig and orange trees, 
 chirimoias, and other tropical and subtropical fruits, and with 
 hedges of fragrant flowers: above are rounded hillsides bear- 
 ing the grains, green or golden, of temperate climes, higher 
 are cliffs either gray or black, and on the east white peaks of 
 dazzling splendor rising 1-1,000, 16,000 feet above the valley, 
 which itself slowly ascends from 4000 to 10,000 feet above 
 the sea. The lower western w^all attains an altitude of from 
 15,000 to 18,000 feet. Travelers may always disagree as to the 
 finest scenery in the world, but few visitors to this valley 
 will deny that it is unsurpassed in the Western Hemisphere. 
 In scenic splendor excelling Chamonix, in mineral riches it 
 rivals the Klondike; for on both sides, the mountains are 
 veined with gold, silver, and copper, as well as the more use- 
 ful if plebeian coal. 
 
 Huascaran. Cardz, a pretty town with a delightful climate 
 at an altitude of 6000 feet, is situated at the base of Huandoy, 
 21,000 feet, while Yungaij, at 8300 feet, has a still finer loca- 
 tion on the lower slope of the great Huascaran, one of the most 
 beautiful of the world's mountains, first climbed by Miss Peck 
 on her sixth attempt, September 2, 1908, in company with two 
 Swiss guides, her earlier efforts being rendered abortive 
 through inability to provide other assistants than the inexpen- 
 sive and incompetent natives. In recognition of this remark- 
 able ascent to a summit 1500 feet higher than I\It. ]\IcKinley, 
 Miss Peck was presented by the Government of Peru with a 
 very beautiful gold medal. Of the twin peaks, the north was 
 the summit attained : this, according to later measurement by 
 French engineers, has an altitude of 21,812 feet; the south 
 peak, 22,187 feet, pronounced by the guides impossible at the 
 time, remains for some other mountaineer to conquer. Other 
 snow mountains a little lower, of varying degrees of difficulty,
 
 MT. HUASCAUAX, FIUjM AN ALTITUDE OF 10,000 FKKT 
 
 
 i 
 
 LLANOANt'CO liUUCL
 
 THE HUAILAS VALLEY 57 
 
 afford opportunity for a number of first ascents of 20,000 feet 
 and upwards. 
 
 The tourist mIio is not a mountain climber will find ample 
 reward for his journey in admiring these peaks from the 
 valley. He should, however, take a few horseljack rides, 
 especially one from Yungay through the Llanganuco Gorge, 
 by which there is a frequented pass between Huascaran and 
 Iluandoy to the mountainous and mineral region east of the 
 White Range. This splendid excursion may be made in a 
 single day from Yungay, but the feel)le, or the novice in horse- 
 back riding may prefer to spend the night at a ranch house 
 at the east end of the gorge, perhaps extending the excursion 
 some distance beyond. In any case provisions should be taken 
 from Yungay. 
 
 After a pleasant two hours' ride over the green foothills, 
 one enters the narrow gorge four miles long, and a quarter to 
 a half mile wide, where a sublime spectacle is presented. 
 Practically perpendicular cliffs, more lofty than those of the 
 Yosemite, rise on either hand, until at the center of the gorge 
 one gazes at the sheer north wall of Huascaran towering 10,000 
 feet above the floor of the canon which itself has a height of 
 12,000 feet. On the left, high up between massive triangular 
 cliffs, gleam glaciers of the sharper Iluandoy, almost as high 
 as * iC snowy coverlet jjeering over the edge of Huascaran. 
 A beautiful lake half a mile long, near the center occupies 
 the entire floor of the valley. One rides along the pathway, 
 in places cut out of the solid rock, in others supported by 
 tree trunks, where a horse's stumble might easily precipitate 
 his rider into the so-called fathomless lake 100 feet below ; 
 but tbe excellent horses climb vei'itable stairs with ease, and 
 there is no occasion for disciuietude. In the distant fore- 
 ground a beautiful snowclad mountain is in brilliant contrast 
 to the somber and awesome surroundings. A second lake 
 follows; a silveiy waterfall on the left leaps down a few 
 thousand feet in a shimmering shower of spray. Hcyontl the 
 lakes are meadows, then the ranch lumse. To continue thence 
 to the south to behold the eastern face of Huascaran and other 
 splendid peaks is well worth the sturdy traveler's while. 
 At least the Llanganuco r!or;j:e should be travci-scd l)y every 
 visitor to the valley, though many of the natives of Yungay
 
 58 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 have never admired its grandeur, as many residents of Buffalo 
 have never seen Niagara Falls. Several delightful walks or 
 rides should be taken to the hills hack of Yungay, and to 
 a buttress of the Black Range opposite. From one of the 
 former, a little to the south, may be had the finest possible 
 view of the mountain. A pleasant ride, of three hours 
 each way (a whole day should be allowed for the trip), is to 
 the gold mine Matarao (10,000 feet), above the village of 
 Mancos. From this point Huascaran may be climbed ; or one 
 may walk up to the snow line and return the same day, if 
 not affected by the altitude. 
 
 Before the completion of the railroad the tourist may ad- 
 venture thither by riding up over the Black Range. AVithout 
 letters of introduction to hospitable hosts, one should write 
 a week or two in advance to the steamship agent at Samanco 
 requesting him to have horses ready at the port, since none may 
 be obtained there. One may ride on the day of arrival 30 
 miles to ]\Ioro where there is a poor hotel. The second day 
 one may proceed to Pamparomas, where food and lodging of a 
 sort are provided. A long third day's ride will bring one 
 at nightfall to Yungay. From the altitude of 14,700 feet at 
 the top of the pass in the Black Range, there is a glorious 
 picture of the Cordillera Blanca, a row of snowclad giants ex- 
 tending north and south as far as the eye can reach; i'hile 
 a gloomy canon close in front leads down to the beautiful 
 valley. A truly hardy traveler may enjoy pursuing his way 
 up the Huailas Valley to Huaraz and on to Cerro de Pasco, 
 from Yungay a ten days' journey; either by way of Huanuco 
 in the montana section east of the mountains, or by Chiquian 
 on the plateau near the foot of another splendid peak.
 
 CITAPTEK VIII 
 
 CALLAO TO LIMA— HISTORY 
 
 Callao. The harbor of Callao, six or seven days direct 
 from Panama, in contrast to tlie ports where the ship has 
 previously called, presents an attractive picture. If the ar- 
 rival is in the early evening the brilliant and extensive display 
 of lights indicates a considerable city and a wide array of ship- 
 ping. By day one will admire the varied landscape, the busy 
 docks and the city in front, the verdure of the Rimac Valley at 
 the left with its scattered enclosing heights often i)artly hid- 
 den by clouds, and the contrasting bluffs of the islands San 
 Lorenzo and Fronton on the right, which, with the long sandy 
 bar called La Punta extending a mile out from the city, 
 form a well protected harbor. Of the few such on the West 
 Coast this alone has been actively utilized. Unfortunately the 
 other chief commercial ports are open roadsteads. In 1537, 
 two years after the founding of Lima, a city was established at 
 the port, where soon there was a busy harbor, Avith vessels 
 bringing all kinds of merchandise from Europe, and departing 
 laden with rich cargoes of gold and silver and a few otiier prod- 
 ucts. In the early colonial days Callao was several times 
 pillaged by pirates, but later suffered a far greater calamity, 
 exceeding the recent disasters at Valparaiso and San Francisco, 
 and paralleled only by the fate of Port Royal. October 28, 
 1746, a terrible earthquake occurred, accompanied by a tidal 
 wave w'hich engulfed the city, destroying all, save one or two, 
 of the 6000 inliabitants. The site sank Ix'ucalh the ocean. 
 The present city was rebuilt to the nortli of the earlier settle- 
 ment. Many ships lie at anchor in its harbor, some at the 
 docks, others outside: sailing vessels, large steamers, both 
 passenger and freight, a half-do/.en men of war, Peruvian, 
 British, perhaps American, the last prol)ably flying the only 
 United States flag visible. Seldom does a ship approach 
 
 59
 
 60 THE SOUTH A:\rERICAN TOUR 
 
 the docks on ariival, and not at all if its stay is to be 
 short. The freight is diseliarjied into ligliters, the passen- 
 gers with their baggage into rowboats. As the water is al- 
 ways smooth, this, tliough inconvenient and an additional 
 expense, is no great hardship. The fare to the shore is 
 40 centavos. A bargain should be made with the flctero, 
 as the men are called who have numbers on their hats in- 
 dicating that they are duly licensed. These men will take 
 charge of your luggage, large pieces and small, delivering it 
 safely at your hotel in Lima. They are fikely to ask double 
 what it is worth, not in comparison with New York prices, 
 but with what it is needful to pay. The Lima Express Com- 
 pany has a fixed tariff of 1.50 soles for a large trunk, 80 
 centavos for each piece of hand baggage, although for several 
 a reduction may be made. The figure agreed upon should 
 include the fee for taking both passengers and baggage, except 
 that the passenger will often make his own way from the 
 dock to his hotel in Lima. Stipulation should be made for 
 the delivery of the baggage within two or three hours, though 
 it may then arrive much later. What one carries one's self 
 should not be counted. If undecided what hotel to patronize 
 one may arrange with the fletero for half price to conduct him 
 and to transport his baggage to the railway station, where it 
 may be checked to Lima. Trains every half hour, fare 20 
 ctvs. Leaving it at the station Desamparados in Lima, a 
 block from the principal plaza, the tourist may look about 
 and arrange where to go. Persons who have decided in ad- 
 vance may go with the fletero to the railway station or, after 
 passing the customs examination at the dock, may turn to the 
 right, then left, and walk a block or so to the electric cars 
 which run every ten minutes to Lima, a ride of about twenty 
 minutes through the center of Callao, and along a broad bou- 
 levard to the larger city eight miles distant. From the end 
 of the line in Lima it is a walk of four blocks to the left and 
 one to the right to the Hotel Maury; or a cab may be taken 
 (fare for one or two persons, 40 centavos), to the destination 
 desired. 
 
 The tourist on landing will give Callao but a passing glance, 
 and is likely to return only to embark on his departure ; but 
 a few points of interest may be mentioned. A floating dry 
 dock belonging to the Peruvian Steamship Company will re-
 
 CALLAO TO LIMA 61 
 
 ceive ships of 7000 tons within the space of two hours. Tlie 
 city is of foreign aspect, with buildings of one or two stories. 
 Noticeable are the women with .stands of strange and familiar 
 fruits and other edibles. The newsboys seem natural ; the 
 electric cars are of the best quality, some Avith compartments 
 of the first and second class, with prices to Lima, 20 and 10 
 centavos respectively. Among many narrow streets are some 
 wide ones; two or three small but respectable hotels afford 
 accommodation at modest prices, one sol a day for a room, or 
 at double the rate and more. There are several large plazas, 
 (open S(iuares) and a few Clubs, the English with good quar- 
 ters fronting the bay, and with a fine view from the balconies, 
 the Italian, Centro Naval, Union, Boat Club, etc. Among the 
 churches, hosjoitals, and pul)lic edifices, the most noticeable 
 is the Aduana or Custom-house, which is seen at the right 
 from the car as it is passing through the first plaza. Of the 
 churches, that of La ]\Iatriz is most important. The plaza in 
 fi'ont is adorned with a statue of General San ]\Iartin; the 
 Plaza Grau has a handsome monument to the celebrated 
 Admiral of that name ; while in the square called Dos de ^layo 
 is a marble pillar surmounted by a bust of Jose Galvez, 
 IMinister of War, killed in the naval battle at Callao, May, 
 1866. Should one desire further information as to shops or 
 other nuitters, inquiry may be made at the importing house 
 of W. R. Grace of New York (ask for Casa Grace) ; or at one 
 of the steamship offices, all of which are near the landing. 
 
 Peruvian History 
 
 For the fuller enjoyment and aiii)recialion of Lima, a little more 
 history may be an advanlai^e. The heroes of Peru are many. The 
 names of a few will often be heard, and a knowlcdiiv of tht'ir valiant 
 deeds, a slight acquaintance with Spanish American history, is de- 
 sirable. 
 
 After the news of the Conquest had been carried to Charles V to- 
 gether with the royal fifth of the gold treasure obtained l)y Pi/.arro, 
 tlie Con(|ueror received an additional giant of seventy leagues of 
 land to the south of the two hundred previously bestowed, wiiich 
 beiian in Ecuador about one decree north of tlie e(|uator. To Al- 
 magro, Pizarro's i)aitner, was given two hundred leagues south of 
 this dominion. Just where the dividing line ran was a matter of <lis- 
 l)ute, each claiming that Cuzco lay in his territory. However, a truce
 
 62 TPIE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 was declared until Hernando Pizano should arrive with the docu- 
 ments, Alniajjro meanwhile setting out in 153o on what proved to* be 
 an arduous and futile expedition for the conquest of Chile. On his 
 return he again set up his claim to Cuzco. A contest with 
 Hernando Pizarro ensued ; Almagro gained possession of the ancient 
 city, but was later put to death there by order of his old friend and 
 ally, Francisco Pizarro. The claim of Almagro's son to his father's 
 ten-itory then being denied, this so enraged the followers of that 
 brave and generous chieftain tiiat they resolved to avenge his wrongs. 
 Kusliing into the house of Pizarro they slew him before he could arm 
 himself to resist. Thus in 1541 perished the Conqueror after a few 
 brief years in the enjoyment of his astonishing success. 
 
 For nearly three centuries afterward, Peru was governed by a 
 Viceroy, who until 1740 had authority over the whole of Spanish 
 South America. The Viceroy was assisted by a Real Audiencia, con- 
 sisting of four oidores or judges who possessed extensive civil and 
 criminal powers. Another Audiencia was also established at Chu- 
 quisaca, Sucre, in Alto Peru, now Bolivia. During the colonial days 
 the Indians were greatly oppressed by the Spanish residents, who 
 drew vast wealth from the mines and lived in luxury and splendor. 
 At the same time the colonists suffered various vicissitudes, attacks 
 by pirates, an epidemic of smallpox, two severe earthquakes in 1687 
 and 1746, and insurrections of the Indians; but in the main the 
 country was prosperous. 
 
 For centuries the spirit of loyalty remained, but the North 
 American and the French revolutions encouraged the spread of 
 liberal ideas, which events in Spain made easier to be carried into 
 execution. Although the Viceroy, Fernando Abaseal, Avhose ad- 
 ministration lasted from 1806 to 1816, made many concessions and 
 improvements, it was impossible to stem the tide. After the abdi- 
 cation of Charles IV of Spain in 1808 in favor of his son Ferdi- 
 nand VII, and the subsequent crowning of Joseph Bonaparte as 
 king, orders were sent out for the colonists to transfer their alle- 
 giance to the new ruler. It happened, however, that a decree of 
 Charles V in 1530, confirmed by Philip II in 1563, had authorized 
 the colonies in case of emergency to convoke Juntas or political 
 assemblies. These convening in the various colonial capitals de- 
 clared loyalty to the banished King Ferdinand and refused to 
 recognize the authority of Spain while in the hands of a usurper. 
 The leaders were already planning ultimate independence, but the 
 masses Avere not yet weaned from their loyalty. In Buenos Aires 
 the Viceroy was expelled without trouble, but in the other colonies 
 the struggle was severe and prolonged. In Lima the Viceroy em- 
 ployed harsh measures against the patriots. In 1809 royalist troops
 
 CALLAO TO LIMA 63 
 
 were sent from here to Quito, and an army under General Goyeneche 
 to Alto Peru, to oppose the revolutionists. February 13, 1812, in- 
 dependence was proclaimed at Huanuco, in 181-4 at Cuzco; but at 
 length the royalists everywhere gained the day, so tiiat when 
 Abascal retired to Spain iu 181(), Buenos Aires alone remained in 
 the hands of the patriots. Nevertheless, the successor of Abascal, 
 General Pezuela, was the last of the Viceroys. Although Ferdinand 
 was now restored to the throne of Spain, the spirit in favor of in- 
 dependence had become general. With an empty treasury, and 
 general disorder in the departments of government, the Viceroy found 
 himself confronted by a resurrection of the enemy who, after vic- 
 tories in the south and north, at length advanced upon Peru. 
 
 First came the Liberating Army from the south, organized in 
 Mendoza by General San Martin, who, in 1817, had overthrown the 
 royalists in Chile. Landing near Pisco, 122 miles south of Lima, 
 September 7, 1820, General San Martin issued, September 8, a 
 proclamation stating that he had come to liberate the people, not 
 to make conquests. Robbei-y was prohibited ; and bloodshed, ex- 
 cept on the field of battle. The Viceroy proposed a conference 
 which was held at MiraHores without result. 
 
 An army of 1000 soldiers under General Arenales, dispatched by 
 San Martin from Pisco to the interior, after gaining many recruits 
 defeated a royalist force near Cerro de Pasco. Meantime San Mar- 
 tin had proceeded to Ancon just north of Lima, and then to Huaura 
 near Huacho, while Admiral Cochrane, with his new Chilian tieet, 
 captured by surprise at night the Spanish frigate Esmeralda in 
 the port of Callao. In January, 1821, the Viceroy abdicated and 
 returned to Spain leaving in command General La Serna, who with- 
 drew to the interior on the advance of the patriot army. July 12, 
 1821, San Martin entered the capital; July 28, which is regarded as 
 Peru's Independence Day, proclamation was made in the Plaza in 
 front of the palace — "From this moment Peru is free and inde- 
 pendent by the will of the people and by the justice of their 
 cause which God defends." 
 
 San Martin, now called the Protector, after organizing a pro- 
 visional government and arranging for a national congress went to 
 Guaya(|uil to meet General Siinon Bolivar, who, having freed Vene- 
 zuela and Colombia, was coming from the north. The particulars 
 of the conference were not revealed. A disagreement was evident. 
 San Martin, returning, resigned the goveniment into the hands of 
 the Constituent Congress which met in 1822. and withdrew to Argen- 
 tina and FiUrope. The assembly conferred on him the title of 
 Founder of Libeity of Peru, decreed a life jtension and other honors; 
 but the pension probably lapsed, as San Martin died in comparative
 
 64 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 poverty in 1S50 at the age of seventy-two. The hero's patriotism, 
 couraye, skill, unselfish devotion, high principles, and sterling char- 
 acter make him worthy to stand with the noblest patriots of history. 
 His name in South America is honored as is that of Washington 
 in Nortli America, and with equal justice. It should be known among 
 lis, as is Washington's among them. 
 
 General Bolivar arrived in Lima September 1, 1823, and was in- 
 vested with supreme power. There were now two armies of royalist 
 troops in the interior; in July, 1824, the Liberating Army of the 
 North began its march from the sea over the mountains to Cerro de 
 Pasco. The two armies met, August 5, on the plain of Junin, 
 where the patriots gained a complete victoiy. General Canterac, 
 commander of the royalist forces, retired to Cuzco, where he was 
 joined by the southern army under Valdez. The patriots under 
 General Sucre proceeded to the Apurimac Valley. December 9, 
 1824, the two armies met in the hard-fought battle of Ayacucho, 
 which resulted in a brilliant victory for the patriots and ended 
 Spanish dominion in America. 
 
 Bolivar was made President of Peru for life, the Colombian troops 
 Avere voted a magnificent reward ; but in 1827 Bolivar retired to 
 Colombia. Of the troublous times following, uj) to the war with 
 Chile, little need be said. The name of Manuel Pardo may be men- 
 tioned, founder of the Civil Party and President from 1872 to 1876, 
 an able statesman, scholar, and patriot, who was assassinated in 1878 
 while President of the Senate. 
 
 The War of the Pacific broke out in 1879, when Peru, in accord- 
 ance with a treaty secretly made with that country, went to the 
 assistance of Bolivia, after the Chilians had seized Antofagasta, then 
 a port of Bolivia, on account of a quarrel over an export tax on ni- 
 trate. A noted naval engagement occurred off the coast of Iquique, 
 when the Peruvian ship Huascar under Admiral Grau sank the 
 Chilian Esmeralda under the heroic Captain Arturo Prat, who lost his 
 life in the engagement. To his widow. Admiral Grau, with kindly 
 spirit, sent a letter of sympathy with some relies which Prat had 
 carried. The other Peruvian vessel, the Independencia, pursuing the 
 Chilian Covadonga, ran upon hidden rocks and became a total wreck, 
 a misfortune which proved a death blow to Peru. For four months 
 Admiral Grau kept the Chilians at bay, but at last, October 8, he 
 was obliged to fight the two Chilian ironclads at once. A shell strik- 
 ing the tower killed Admiral Grau. His four successors in com- 
 mand, one after another, met the same fate. Wlien forced to sur- 
 render one-third of the entire force of 193 men had been killed or 
 wounded. The coast, 1400 miles long, was now exposed to the 
 enemy, and in November, 1870. the Chilians began a series of at- 
 tacks, all of which were successful, excepting the battle of Tarapaca.
 
 CALLAO TO LIMA 65 
 
 Many Peruvians met a heroic death, notablj' Bolo8:nesi and others 
 at Arica. In 1881 occurred the battles of Cliorillus and Mirallores 
 and the capture of Lima by the Chilians, who remained in possession 
 of the city until the treaty of Ancon was si,',nied, October, 1883. 
 
 According to the terms of this treaty, the province of Tarapacii 
 was ceded to Chile, while Tacna and Arica were yielded for ten years, 
 at the expiration of which time the residents were to vote whether 
 they would continue as a part of Chile or retuni to their former 
 allegiance. The fact that the provinces have remained under con- 
 trol of Chile without any such vote being taken, has for years been 
 a cause of ill-feeling between the two countries, which at times have 
 seemed on the verge of war.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 
 
 Hotels. Grand Hotel Maui-y, A. P., 6 to 20 soles per day. E. P.. 
 2 soles up ; Grand Hotel, A. P., G to 10 soles; Hotel Cardinal, E. P., 
 2 soles up. Excellent restaurant, reasonable. 
 
 Restaurants. Jardin Estrasburgo, and Marron's, excellent, fash- 
 ionable restaurants; Berlin, Genuan bome-eooking restaurant. 
 
 Carriage Mates. 40 ctvs. a course, for one or two; by the hour, S. 
 1.50. 
 
 Post Office boxes in hotel. Postage rates, Peru, letters, 5 ctvs.; 
 cards, 2 ctvs.; United States and Europe, letters, 12 ctvs.; cards, 
 4 ctvs. Population of Lima, about 150,000. 
 
 Chief Points op Interest 
 
 Plaza de Armas, Cathedral, Government Palace, Portales, Plaza de 
 la Inquisicion, Senate Chamber, Hall of Congress, Market; Ex- 
 position Palace, Museum, and Park; Paseo Colon, Botanical Gar- 
 den, Cristobal Hill, Alameda de Acho, Bull Ring. Excursions op 
 Oroya Railway, and to Chorillos. 
 
 The weekly paper, The West Coast Leader, is of interest 
 and value both to tourists and to business men. 
 
 To be comfortably settled for a few days or weeks is of the 
 first importance. Few will criticise the statement that the 
 hotel par excellence of Lima is the ]\Iaury, often called the best 
 on the entire West Coast. A New York club-man whom I 
 met there with his East Indian valet, declared that nowhere 
 else in the world had he found so excellent a table at so 
 moderate a cost. One here meets travelers, distinguished and 
 undistinguished, foreign diplomats, and other resident and 
 transient guests from all quarters of the globe. With its 
 main entrances near the corner of Ucayali and Carabaya 
 streets, the INIaury extends through the block to Huallaga. 
 The section at this corner, called the Francia y Ingleterra, the 
 
 66
 
 CALLAO HARBOR — RECEIVING SECRETARY BOOT 
 
 ll.A/.A UE ARMAS, CATHEUllAI^
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 67 
 
 French and Englisli, was formerly a separate establishment. 
 Though now a i)art of the .Maury it preserves its old name, 
 with its own room-clerks, and entrance on Huallaga. At the 
 corner of the Plaza de Armas, the heart of the city, it has 
 many rooms with balconies looking across the Plaza to the 
 Government Palace and ^Municipal Building, while opposite 
 the front is the side of the great Cathedral. In spite of the 
 proximity of the Cathedral bells, which ring oft and loud, 
 many pereons prefer this end of the hotel on account of the 
 pleasant outlook and the liettcr circulation of air. It is, how- 
 ever, quite a walk througii the corridors to the dining-rooms 
 at the other end, and some distance to the bathrooms. So 
 the majority prefer the IMaury side, where the rooms are more 
 elegantly furnished, the suites have larger parlors, a few 
 have private baths, all have higher prices. The rates including 
 meals are from six soles a day up to twenty, according to ac- 
 commodations. Coffee and rolls are usually served in the 
 rooms at the hour desired ; almucrzo — breakfast, is from eleven 
 to two; dinner from 5.30 to eight. At each of these meals 
 there are half a dozen kinds of soup, several varieties of fish, 
 15 to 20 hot entrees, 10 or 12 cold dishes, and several veg- 
 etables; at breakfast, steak, chops, and eggs in any form, at 
 dinner several roasts, and, most unusual in South American 
 cities, five or six kinds of desserts. Also there is always fruit, 
 at least oranges, bananas, and granadillas somewhat like a 
 pomegranate. At almucrzo, strawberries may usually be had 
 for the asking, though never on the bill of fare, while chiri- 
 moias, sometimes called custard apples, may be obtained with 
 a considerable extra charge, this fruit being everywhere the 
 most expensive variety. On the street or at the market they 
 may be purchased for one-thii'd the price at the hotel, fi-otn 
 10 to 40 ccntavos apiece according to the size. An English- 
 man once complained lli.it the roast beef and iiiultou wt'ro 
 not such as he had at home, and he didn't care for the other 
 things, fussed-up dishes; l)ut most persons, like the Xcw 
 Yorker, rejoice in what is provitled, at least for a reasonable 
 time, especially if they have come from i>lateau or desert or 
 from almost anywhere. Tlie sn'i'irilns, which ;ii'e not young 
 ladies but resemble scallops, and the cr;il)s and lobsters, are 
 particularly tine. The Maury has also two or three annexes
 
 68 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 where rooms may be secured, and meals taken as desired. In 
 the hotel, too, rooms alone may be procured, with meals a la 
 carte in a dili'erent dining-room, or elsewhere at one's option. 
 An excellent orchestra provides music of the best quality ; at 
 the Maury from 12 to 2 daily, and at the Exposition Restau- 
 rant under the same management, in the Zoological Gardens, 
 from 5.30 to 11.30. A steam laundry is connected with the es- 
 tablishment ; of course there are electric lights, as at all hotels, 
 and in all cities of any size throughout the tour. Generally a 
 button will be found near the head of the bed by which the 
 light may be extinguished after retiring. 
 
 The Grand Hotel is on Iluallaga street in the next block be- 
 yond the French and English ; similar to the ]\Iaury, with good 
 rooms and table at slightly lower prices, and preferred by 
 many. Of cheaper hotels, the Cardinal has a reputation for 
 excellent meals a la carte at moderate prices; this being sit- 
 uated on what is often called the main street, calle de la Union, 
 half a block from the Plaza. The Jardin Estrasburgo, on the 
 Plaza, opposite the Cathedral, is a restaurant of the first 
 order, where meals are regularly served, and ices and re- 
 freshments at all hours. A European orchestra provides vocal 
 and instrumental music. Opposite the Palace, under the 
 2)ortales is the Confiterie Marron. Afternoon tea and din- 
 ner are accompanied by pictures from a cinematograph, and 
 by orchestral music. All tastes and purses are provided 
 for. 
 
 Comfortably settled in a hotel, one will first enjoy a stroll 
 on the Plaza de Armas, the real center of the city, important 
 for its historic associations and for its present activities. For 
 nearly three centuries the capital of Spanish South America 
 and the seat of the Viceroys, Lima is a city the true history 
 of which surpasses romantic legends : a place of wonderful 
 charm to those who tarry long, the home of a courtly, culti- 
 vated society of agreeable, hospitable people, though somewhat 
 exclusive withal, as are the social leaders generally in the large 
 South American cities. To be from New York, Chicago, even 
 Boston, is not an open sesame to the homes of Spanish Amer- 
 ican wealth and culture. However, the passing tourist will 
 have brief time to make acquaintances; the few Peruvians 
 whom he may casually meet are likely to make a favorable
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KlXdS 69 
 
 impression, except upon those "who regard courtesy as a 
 waste of time. 
 
 Tlie Plaza de Annas or Plaza IMajor was selected by Pizarro 
 himself as the center of the city. The site was well chosen 
 in proximity to the fine harbor of Callao, yet somewhat back 
 from the water for safety from the buccaneers who in those 
 days infested tlie seas. Althougli at the foot of the great 
 Andes, off -shoots from which come down to the water's edge, 
 the city is on practically level ground ; for the hills about, as in 
 general all along the coast, rise abruptly, like islands, from 
 a flat surface, instead of the whole country ])eiiig liiily and 
 rolling as on our Atlantic shore. These small detached moun- 
 tains, which make a pretty and effective background when 
 they are not concealed by fog, are largely responsible for the 
 disagreea])le mist which in the winter season makes the climate 
 rather unpleasantly damp and chill. 
 
 The chief part of the city is on the left or south bank of 
 the Rimae River, by the side of which runs the Central Rail- 
 way from Callao up to Oroya ; the main station of Lima, 
 Desemparados, being one block from the Plaza. As is custom- 
 ary, a pretty garden with flowers, trees, and shrubbery occu- 
 pies a large part of the square, which has besides the usual 
 band stand a bronze fountain in the center, no doubt the oldest 
 in America, as it was presented to the city in 1578. 
 
 The great Cathedral, on the southeast side of the Square, 
 built of gray stone witli two towers, is the earliest and largest 
 in South America. Although the Spanish invaders manifested 
 little of the spirit of tlie Chi'ist they professed to worsliip, they 
 were ardent suppoi-ters of what they regarded as the true 
 faith and were eager to establish everywhere the rites of 
 their religion. Thus Francisco Pizarro, the cruel and per- 
 fidious concjueror, had no sooner selected the site of the city 
 designed to l)e his capital, and drawn a plan of the streets 
 and plazas than he himself laid the corner stone of the churcii, 
 January 18, 1535. The first structure, though five years in 
 building, was naturally of no grand ])roportions. But Lima 
 soon I)('coming a iiu'li-opolilan see with an ari'lil)ishop. it was 
 deemed fitting to ])uild a gn'at Cathedral. AVith interrup- 
 tions and changes of design it was 1G25 before the splendid 
 edifice was finished and consecrated. This done the bones of
 
 70 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 I'izarro were transferred thither, where they still remain. 
 After a little more than a century this building was laid in 
 ruins by the earthquake which in 1746 destroyed Callao; it 
 was then reconstructed on the same site, though with less 
 magnificence than before. The Cathedral has five naves, and 
 ten chapels along the sides. In the Chapel of the Virgin on the 
 left is a celebrated image, a gift from the Emperor Charles V, 
 and under a glass case the remains of the Conqueror Pizarro, 
 though their genuineness is a matter of dispute. The view in 
 the central nave is imposing. The choir, said to be unequaled 
 in America and seen to best advantage only on feast days 
 when the high altar is illuminated, is distinguished by reason 
 of the beautiful carving of the mahogany and cedar; the 
 pulpit also shows handsome chiseling. In front is a Crucifix 
 of ivory presented by Philip II, a valuable work of art. The 
 solid silver altar and candlesticks are noteworthy. The un- 
 usually fine organ was made in Belgium. In the Chapel 
 Arcediano, the Archdeacon's, which was founded in 1600 by 
 Don Juan Velasquez de Obando and dedicated to Santo Goribio 
 and other sainted Limanians, is an original painting by Murillo 
 representing Jesus and Veronica, presented to the church by 
 Sefior Luna Pizarro. In the chapel of St. Bartholomew are 
 paintings of a celebrated artist, IMateo Alexio, who visited Lima 
 near the close of the sixteenth century and who is here buried. 
 On a sidewall is the most famous work of a noted artist, 
 Matias Maestro, called the Consecration of the Cathedral, the 
 gift of Seiior Ocampo in 1625. In the chapel. La Purissima, 
 of especially rich construction, is the sepuleher of Sefior ]Mor- 
 cillo with his statue by a distinguished Peruvian sculptor, 
 Senor Baltazar Gavilan. Here too are fine ivory carvings 
 representing the apostles, presented by the Lima theologian, 
 Dr. Feliciano de la Vega, who at his death in 1640 was Arch- 
 bishop of jMexico. In the passage-way connecting the church 
 with the sacristy may be seen on the right a painting of the 
 various saints native to Lima, by ]\Iatias jNIaestro. On the 
 wall of the right gallery of the church, a painting by Lepiani 
 represents Christ in Prayer. In the sacristy are portraits of 
 all the Archbishops, a copy of a Rembrandt, some relics of the 
 Inquisition, and a font of unusual style. By the side of the 
 Cathedral is the residence of the archbishop, never suitably
 
 PORTALES AND MTJN^rCIPAL BUILDING 
 
 jiir^p-^ 
 
 w 
 
 C'AI.I.i; JIMS" -INVIi.l KVlhi.V C'l MU-ll'l.M' l.l.'.llA
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 71 
 
 restored, and in its dilapidated eoiulilioii marring tlie beauty 
 of the Plaza. 
 
 On the northeast side of the Plaza is the historic residence 
 of the Viceroys, now the Government Palace. Of the old 
 colonial building, the scene of many gay and brilliant festivi- 
 ties in the days of great general wealth and viceregal splendor, 
 nothing remains but the chapel Avith a handsome ceiling and 
 with walls adorned with sixteenth century tiles reminding of 
 IMoorish art. No longer used for worship it is a store-house for 
 archives. Around the several patios are suites used as offices 
 of the various departments of government. Here may be 
 found the Minister of Foreign Relations, the jNIinister of 
 Justice and Education, etc. : also the apartment occupied by 
 the President as his residence and for his offices. In the State 
 dining-room banquets are occasionally given to distinguished 
 guests, as to Secretary Root. During the Sessions of Congress, 
 the President usually entertains at dinner the Members, 
 seriatim, holding an informal reception after the dinner. 
 Ladies, so far as I am aware, are never honored with in- 
 vitations on these occasions, which thus diifer from 
 the State dinners given by our Presidents at the White 
 House. 
 
 Although the main entrance to the patio of the palace is 
 guarded by soldiers, an ordinary person is permitted to pass 
 from the Plaza unquestioned. Commonly quiet and peaceful, 
 on a day in INIay, 1909, there was here a scene of confusion 
 and bloodshed. By a simultaneous attack made at each of the 
 three entrances, the guards were overpowered and many of 
 them slain, the rooms of the President were invaded, his sec- 
 retary was murdered, and he himself was seized and carried 
 to the street. Surrounded by horsemen he was dragged first 
 one way then another, at length to the Pla/.a de la liKiuisicion, 
 where with a revolver at his head demand was made that he 
 should sign an abdication. This, President Leguia with much 
 coui-age resolutely refused to do. After l)eing two hours in 
 the hands of his enemies he was rescued, safe and sound, by 
 soldiers who, tiring upon his captors, succeeded in taking j)ris- 
 oner most of the ringleaders. Two years later they were tried 
 and convicted: ])ut to avert a proliable insurrection they were 
 immediately pardoned, when they were welcomed by the pop-
 
 72 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ulace as heroes instead of the criminals they were. When 
 such men seek to gratify their personal am])ition at the cost 
 of their country 's welfare, for which the first requisite is peace 
 and steady constitutional government, if they received severe 
 punishment and reprobation rather than honor, the attempts 
 would cease and stable prosperity would be assured. An in- 
 terview with the President if especially desired may perhaps 
 be secured through the United States Minister. His office 
 and residence are in a garden called Quinta Heeren in the block 
 Carmen Alto of the street Junin, which passes the front of the 
 palace. The streets, it should be said, have many names, a 
 different one for each block ; but in addition to these local 
 appellations, which are very confusing to strangers, they have 
 names belonging to their entire length, so that the block names 
 may sometimes be dispensed with. 
 
 On the northwest corner of the Plaza is the Municipal Build- 
 ing or City Hall, containing the office of the Mayor, in Lima 
 termed the Alcalde. Here in 1906 Secretary Root was received 
 by Mayor Elguera and the Town Council before going to the 
 Palace to pay his respects to the President. The hall and 
 municipal offices are above stairs, the street floor being oc- 
 cupied by shops of various kinds. Half a block from this 
 corner, dow^n the calle de Lima, a continuation of Junin, is 
 the Post Office, where notices are posted of the opening and 
 closing of mails in connection with the arrival and de- 
 parture of steamers, and of trains to the interior. Postage 
 stamps may be procured on the right and letters registered. 
 On the left, letters are mailed in different slots according to 
 where they are going, hence care should be exercised. After 
 regular closing time double postage will secure the dispatch of 
 letters for an hour or two longer. With fast mails to Panama 
 but once a week, it is important to be in season. There are 
 letter boxes also in the hotels and on the streets, from which 
 collections are made by carriers. The northwest and south- 
 west sides of the Plaza, on which are the portales, are equally 
 interesting in their way. Here are shops of great variety, dis- 
 playing large assortments of goods, besides venders under the 
 arches with wares spread on the floor. The walks are gen- 
 erally thronged with people, for along here are also clubs 
 and restaurants, the latter already referred to. The Clubs
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OP THE KINGS 73 
 
 occupy apartments above the portaks. Tlie Union, at the 
 corner opposite the French and English Hotel, has a series of 
 handsome rooms where balls and ))anquets are occasionally 
 given in honor of distinguished strangers and residents. 
 
 The streets of Lima are narrow, with the electric cars run- 
 ning so close to the curb that one needs to be rather careful, 
 especially as the sidewalks are narrow also. Fortunately most 
 of the Imiklings have but one or two stories, though a few of 
 the later erections have three. Apart from the Plaza, the 
 principal street for shopping is the calle de la Union, which 
 passes across the Plaza in front of the ^Municipal Building. 
 In the first two or three blocks from the Plaza there are 
 drug stores, photographers, jewelry and book stores, shops of 
 nullinery and dry goods, etc., as on all the cross streets near. 
 The fruit-sellers with little baskets of strawberries on long 
 poles, the milkmaids perched high on mules or horses with 
 great cans on each side, the ladies in manta, the close fitting 
 black shawl, or the mantilla of lace, or in the latest Parisian 
 modes, the cholos in plainer garb, the soldiers, the policemen 
 ever ])lowing their whistles, the newsboys and news women, 
 the sellers of lottery tickets, the fine private equipages, car- 
 riages and automobiles, and many many other things present 
 variety sufficient to make an aimless stroll of continual interest. 
 A glance into the open doorways away from the busiest streets 
 usually reveals a paved court, sometimes with tlowering jilants 
 or small trees, mayhap a fountain, and around the court the 
 main rooms of the dwelling. A gem of typical colonial ar- 
 chitecture, the old historic dwelling on the calle del Ucayali, 
 a block from the ]\Iaury, should by all means be visited. It 
 was the property of the Marquis do Torre Taglc and still be- 
 I'ongs to his descendant, Sefior Ortis de Zeballos, to whom 
 is due its excellent condition. The massive stouc doors, 
 staircase, galleries, l)arred doors and windows, ami the bal- 
 conies both on the street and around the patio, i)i-('scnt line ex- 
 amples of the carving of that period. These may be ex- 
 amined by all. A wonderful coUeetion of i)aintiiigs in the 
 j)ossession of the family is not always on view. liKpiiry as 
 to the jjossibility of seeing it may be made l)y those who are 
 especially interested. This extraordinary assemblage of more 
 than eight hundred jtaiulings of the classic sclionls contains
 
 74 TllK SOU'iMI AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Avorks of Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Correggio, Leon- 
 ardo da Vinci, Rubens, Poussin, Velasquez, Murillo, and 
 others. 
 
 An important private collection of ancient furniture, carved 
 and inlaid Avilh artistic merit, is the property of Dr. Javier 
 Trado y Ugarteehe, ]\Iinister of Foreign Relations in the ad- 
 ministration of President Leguia, and Dean of the School of 
 Law; another is that of Don Carlos Watson. 
 
 For evening entertainment there are several theaters, the 
 Politeama, seating 2000, El Olimpo, smaller, and the Chinese. 
 A New ]\Iunicipal Theater is planned. 
 
 If disposed to take a morning stroll, one may walk along 
 Huallaga street past the side of the Cathedral until he comes, 
 after four blocks, to the largest of the four market buildings. 
 This, called the Mercado de la Goncepcion, occupies a w^hole 
 square. In the second block from the Plaza on the right hand 
 side is an unpretentious drug store of Estremadoyro where for 
 5 centavos may be purchased a small envelope of Persian 
 powder, very useful for the fleas. Elsewhere two or three 
 times as much must be paid for the same quantity in less con- 
 venient form. At the end of this block is the fine building 
 of the Bank of Peril, and London. Other banks of various 
 nationalities of Europe will be observed, but none of the United 
 States. However, the House of W. B. Grace, which will be 
 found by turning to the right at the end of the first block, a 
 little waj' down on the left, will serve the purpose if one takes 
 a draft on their house, when letters may be sent in their care. 
 Continuing on Huallaga past the Bank of Peru and London, 
 the interior of which is worth looking at, though you have no 
 especial business within, you come to the fine Market with 
 little shops and cafes along the front and sides. AVithin the 
 large hall is a great display of fruits, flowers, vegetables, meat, 
 butter, eggs, etc. ; everything at very reasonable prices except 
 the last two. Flowers may be had for a song, a bunch of roses 
 for 20 centavos, 10 cents; not American Beauties to be sure, 
 but old-fashioned tea roses and others of various colors, fresh 
 and sweet. Tuberoses, mignonette, heliotrope, and other gar- 
 den flowers are there in profusion. How one would rejoice 
 at such opportunities in any of our cities ! Twenty, a hundred 
 such markets are needed in ]\Ianhattan alone. Luscious fruit
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OP THE KINGS 75 
 
 of various kinds is always plentiful, most of it cheap. Two 
 squares beyond the market one would come to what is now 
 called Plazd Uaimondi. Facing this is a great building for the 
 Police Quarters, and just before that, one for the Society of 
 Mining Engineers. In this Plaza the numerous Italian resi- 
 dents of Lima have recently erected a monument to the 
 famous Italian engineer, Antonio Uaimondi, Avho for many 
 "weary years wandered over the great territor}- of Peru, inves- 
 tigating its mineral resources, and making topographic obser- 
 vations wliich he embodied in a series of maps on a very large 
 scale. Though not perfect in every detail, they are remarkably 
 accurate in view of the difficulties under which he labored. 
 One intending to make exploration in the interior should pro- 
 vide himself with Raimondi maps of the sections to be visited, 
 tiiese being on sale at two soles each at the large liook stores 
 in Lima. Crossing the Plaza to calle de Junin, the Church 
 and Hospital of Santa Ana are on the right. Turning at 
 Junin to the left, back towards the Plaza de Armas, at the 
 next corner will be found the Casa de Moncda or ]\Iint. This 
 is not always open to the public but maj' be visited on one or 
 two afternoons of the week, as may be ascertained by inquiry. 
 The gold and silver coins here made are of the finest work- 
 manship and of liigh grade metal. The Numisinatical ]\luseum 
 of the ^liiit contains a splendid collection of medals from all 
 ])arts of the world, as well as copies of all those coined from 
 the time of Independence to the present. 
 
 At the next corner on the left is the Church of St. Thomas 
 and lieyond that on the cross street is the Prison, and the Cor- 
 rectional School for ^yomen. On the following corner of 
 Junin, at the right is the Church of Caridad, Charity, facing 
 the Plaza of the Inquisicion. Turning here to the right we 
 find in construction the new building for l)oth Houses of 
 Congress, while keeping straight ahead with the pretty garden 
 on the right we should observe tiie handsome Doric j^ortieo 
 of the building long used as the Senate Chamber, formerly 
 occupied by the Tribunals of the In(iuisition, which even on 
 our Western Continent sought to stifle free thor.ght. Tiie 
 Indians, luckily, were excused from its kindly ministrations, 
 the only charity at that time extended to them. The ceiling 
 of fine carved mahogany insi)ires admiration for its excellent
 
 16 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 workmanship of native skill. A mahogany table now used 
 for writing the laws of the nation was formerly in service for 
 drawing up the decrees of death. A noticeable feature of this 
 Plaza is an equestrian Htatue in bronze of the liberator, 
 Bolivar. Sculptured on the pedestal of white marble are bas 
 reliefs representing the battles of Junin and of Ayacucho. 
 In spite of the thin atmosphere at a height equal to that of the 
 top of Pike's Peak, there was severe and gallant fighting on 
 both sides. 
 
 One may return from here to the Plaza by calle Junin, or 
 going one block to the right and then to the left may pass the 
 Church and Plaza San Francisco. This imposing building 
 contains in the sacristy a valuable collection of paintings; 
 paneled ceilings with finely carved beams, and floor of blue 
 tiles, in the cloisters; and carved stalls in the gallery. Fol- 
 lowing the car track to the left one soon returns to the 
 Cathedral and Plaza. 
 
 Of the sixty-seven churches in Lima a few merit a visit. 
 The most important are fortunately near the centre of the city. 
 On the corner beyond the Post Office, as one goes from the 
 Plaza, is the Church of Santo Domingo. The roof over the 
 main entrance is spoken of as the richest and most elaborate 
 work of art in Lima. In the floor of the first cloister the blue 
 tilings laid in 1606 are noteworthy. The collection of paint- 
 ings in the vestry includes a ]\Iurillo representing San Antonio, 
 and a portrait of Santa Rosa by ]\Iatias Maestro. A celebrated 
 chapel by Fray Martin de Porras contains a valuable col- 
 lection of paintings by Roman Nicolette of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury; fourteen works representing the twelve Apostles, St. 
 Paul, and John the Baptist. Especially notable is a beautiful 
 marble statue of Santa Rosa, standing on a silver pedestal 
 which is studded with jewels. Santa Rosa, Isabel de Oliva, 
 born in Peru in 1556, led a life so remarkable for its saintly 
 purity that she was canonized by Pope Clement X, the only 
 American ever distinguished by such an honor. She became 
 patron saint of the whole of America, the West Indies, and the 
 Philippines, her festival being celebrated August 30. Her 
 remains repose in the church in the altar of Santa Rosa, on 
 the base of which is portrayed in marble the scene of her 
 deathbed. The church contains also a silver altar to Our
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OP THE KINGS 77 
 
 Lady of the Rosary, a madonna with a rosary of large pearls, 
 and relics of Fray IMartin de Porras and others. 
 
 At tlie corner wiiere the Church of St. Domingo is situated 
 one may turn to the left, and after two blocks on the ealle 
 de Camana he will reach the Church of St. Augusthi where 
 the stone facade in the baroco style, the choir, and the table 
 of the vestry deserve attention. The organ is called the finest 
 in Lima. The platform of the ancient chapter room, now tiie 
 chapel of the college, and a painting of St. Augustin are of 
 interest, but the distinguishing ornament of the church is a 
 remarkable statue in wood representing Death, the work of 
 a monk, Baltazar Gavilan, who it is said died from the sliock 
 of seeing it during an attack of delirium tremens. Twelve 
 oil portraits on copper of the Disciples, by an unknown artist, 
 are called excellent in drawing, conception, and coloring. 
 
 After one block more on Camana, and then one to the left, 
 the Church of La Merced is reached on the corner of La Union 
 and Ayacucho. This large and fashionable church has a high 
 altar the front of which is silver elaborately worked. There 
 are good carvings on some of the side altars, aihl ]>aintings of 
 merit in the sacristy. Continuing two blocks along Ayacucho 
 and one to the left, one reaches San Pedro, the church of the 
 Jesuits, also fashionable. The wood carvings of the entrance 
 doorway and of the massive altar are worth seeing, also its 
 burnished gold scroll work, the tiled wainscoting, and the 
 paintings and carvings in the sacristy. 
 
 These churches are best seen during the forenoon, as in the 
 afternoon they are often closed. Tliei-e is an Auglo-Anur- 
 ican Episcopal ChurcJi on the calle de Carabaya in tlie sixth 
 block from the Maury, Pacae 226, where service is held Sun- 
 day mornings at ten, others at varying hours. The chaplain, 
 Rev. Archibald Nicol, lives next door, Pacae 228. At Callao 
 thoi-e is anotlier An<)lo-Am< rican Church, not Episcopal, with 
 services in English at 10.:?0 a. m. and 8.00 p. m., calle 
 Teatro 25. 
 
 At least half a day should l)e devoted to a visit to the 
 Palace of tlie Exjiosition which may be reached by electric 
 car, down tlie calle de la Union, or by the calle de Abancay 
 three blocks from the Maury in the opposite direction, as well 
 as by carriage. Jiy the former route one passes the site of
 
 78 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the projected Municipal Theater, and the square in which the 
 Penitentiary is located. This building is called a model and 
 may be visited by interested persons who procure a i)ermit 
 from the proi)er official. The next square is a handsome 
 shaded park called the Parque Colon. This contains a monu- 
 ment to President IManuel Candamo, which was unveiled 
 Sept. 8, 1912. On the farther side of the park is a pretty 
 building, the Institute of Hygiene, fitted up with laboratories 
 of the latest pattern for the analysis of water, foods, etc. 
 
 In the center of the Plaza where the cars turn is the Monu- 
 ment erected to the famous General San Martin, whose name 
 is honored all over South America as that of Washington in 
 North America, an equally sincere and disinterested patriot, 
 a great general; less happy in his later life, though highly 
 honored after his death. He is here represented proclaiming 
 the independence of Peru. On the column is a winged 
 female symbolizing Glory. This handsome monument was 
 presented to the city by Col. Lorenzo Perez Roca. 
 
 The Exposition Palace is a large white building where the 
 Chamber of Deputies temporarily meets and the Department 
 of Fomento is housed ; with halls where lectures and concerts 
 are occasionally held and grand balls are given. It was the 
 scene of two functions in honor of Secretary Root, the first 
 when he was incorporated into the University of St. ]\Iark as 
 honorary member of the Faculty of Administrative and Po- 
 litical Sciences in the presence of the President of the Republic 
 and other officials of the University and of the State. Here, 
 too, was given by the Town Council of Lima a magnificent ball 
 in ]\Ir. Root's honor, to which 1500 invitations were issued. 
 The elegance of the whole affair, in the decorations, gowns, 
 refreshments, and other particulars was equal to that of simi- 
 lar functions in any part of the world. On the upper floor of 
 the building is the National Historical and Anthropological 
 3Iiiscum, open from 2 to 5 p. m. except on Monday. Over the 
 latter section Dr. JMax Uhle, a distinguished German scientist 
 and a noted authority on prehistoric Peru, has long presided. 
 The present Director is Emilio Gutierrez de Quintauilla. Dr. 
 Uhle by excavations at Pachacamac and elsewhere greatly 
 enlarged this collection, probably the most valuable in exist- 
 ence in its own specialty. Some of the specimens of pottery
 
 PASEO COLON AND EXPOSITION PALACE 
 
 J.S lili. Ml .-.1.1 M, KXi'dSrnoN PALACK
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KIX(;m 79 
 
 are believed to have been produced previous to the Christian 
 Era, The origin of the various artich^s and their period are 
 indicated on the cases. Exceedingly curious and weird are 
 many of the objects, and even one who has no taste for 
 archa3ological relics can hardly fail to be interL-sted in the 
 extraordinary, sometimes beautiful, examples of pottery, in 
 the figures of Indians, in the mummies, and other objects. 
 The examples of the strange articles used at the present day 
 by the Indians in the remote montana region equally impress 
 the observer. 
 
 The relics of early colonial days, souvenirs of various battles, 
 of the generals of the War of Independence, will be examined 
 with sympathetic regard by the tourist who has some famil- 
 iarity with Spanish American history. An Art GaUtrij with, 
 a number of historical paintings, and others of general char- 
 acter occupies one corner of the same floor. 
 
 In a smaller building to the northeast is a permanent indus- 
 trial exhibition which the specialist only will care to study. 
 Between these buildings is the entrance to the Park, for which 
 a fee of 10 centavos is charged. This park of thirty acres is 
 a delightful promenade with shaded walks, palm and other 
 trees, artificial lakes, a kiosk, conservatories with orchids and 
 various other plants ; it is also a Zoological Gardt n. Here and 
 there are cages of animals of various kinds, one a spacious 
 and lofty dwelling for many birds, including a pair of the 
 famous condors, which the tourist is not likely to see on the 
 journey except in captivity. Bears and other animals are in 
 other cages. In 1911 the finest pair of lions that I ever 
 chanced to see, and four lively cubs excited admiration. 
 Within the park at the left of the entrance is an excellent 
 Restaurant kept by the proprietors of the Hold Maury, a 
 fashionable place to dine. Down beyond the Zoological (Jar- 
 den, on the side where the electrics go to Chorillos, is the 
 Shooting Club of Lima and fields for cricket, tennis, and other 
 sports. 
 
 The Avenue on which tiie Exposition Palace faces is named 
 the 9th of December, but oftener called the Pasco Colon. It 
 is the popular driveway, half a mile long and 150 feet wide, 
 leading to the Plaza Bolognesi. Lined on the side towards 
 the eitv with handsome modern residences, it has along the
 
 80 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 center a garden with trees, shrubs, and flowers, on each side 
 of a broad walk. On the occasion of Secretary Root's visit 
 there were additional arrangements for electric lights, and on 
 the evening after his arrival the Paseo was brilliantly illu- 
 minated with these, as well as by a splendid disphiy of fire- 
 w^orks. The Paseo was thronged with peoi)le who enthu- 
 siastically welcomed their distinguished guest. 
 
 The Statue of Columbus on the Paseo must not be over- 
 looked. He is represented as the Discoverer of America, 
 which is personified by the Indian ^voman kneeling at his side. 
 This was the model for the statue at Colon and was designed 
 by Salvatore Revelli. 
 
 The Plaza Bolognesi is a spacious circle, a fine setting for the 
 statue in the center to Col. Bolognesi, who fell at Arica in the 
 war with Chile, June 8, 1880. When asked to surrender he 
 replied, ''Not till I have used my last cartridge," and so fell. 
 The statue represents the hero sinking with a mortal wound, 
 yet still holding the flag of his country. Around the base of 
 the column on which the hero stands are sculptured in marble 
 allegorical scenes. 
 
 Six avenues are designed to radiate from this plaza, one, 
 towards the center of the city, called the Central, to be a con- 
 tinuation of the calle de la Union. In the opposite direction 
 extends the Avenue Pierola. On this a car track leads out 
 to the suburb Magdalena, one of the pleasant shore resorts 
 with which Lima is favored. Between this and the Avenue 
 9th of December is one leading to the Hippodrome. The 
 races, generally held on Sunday afternoon, are attended by 
 large crowds of fashionable and other people. The grand- 
 stand belongs to the Jockey Club, which has charge of the 
 races and conducts them according to general custom. 
 
 Some distance bej^ond the Hippodrome is the School of 
 Agriculture and the Sugar Experiment Station, both of these 
 institutions well conducted and doing a valuable work for the 
 promotion of agricultural industry. A great variety of plants 
 is cultivated, and experiments are made with soils of many 
 kinds. Instruction is given to a considerable number of 
 students. 
 
 Proceeding from the Exposition Palace in the direction 
 opposite to the Plaza Bolognesi, following the Avenue Grau,
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 81 
 
 one would alter a few blocks pass the Italian Hospital on the 
 left, and a little farther reach the tichool of Arts and Crafts 
 on the right, Escucla dc Artcs y Oficios, of which Sefior 
 Valente is director. Here are taught clay modeling and sculp- 
 ture, decorative art and composition, the history of art and 
 esthetics ; and models of various works are usually to be seen. 
 A foundry for art bronzes, it is hoped, will soon be added. 
 Of still greater importance are the courses designed to pro- 
 duce honest and capable mechanics, which are well accom- 
 plishing their purpose. 
 
 In the next block on the left is the large building of the 
 Medical School; the Baimondi Museum on the upper floor, 
 open from eleven to twelve, has sections devoted to Botany, 
 Ethnology, Zoology, etc. In the rear of the building is the 
 Botanical Garden, containing specimens of every tree and 
 plant to be found in Peru. Owing to the varied climates of 
 the country arising from the difference in altitude, a wonder- 
 ful diversity of productions results. The entrance is adorned 
 with stately palms; goi'geous and beautiful flowers and shrubs 
 will be found within. A pe tree bears a strange fruit, W'hich, 
 bursting open when ripe, shows within a pretty flower with 
 scarlet seeds called the chusia. Cards of admission are ob- 
 tained at the j\[edical School. 
 
 Continuing along the avenue one passes the large Dus de 
 ]\Iayo Hospital and still farther, on the Avenue of Circum- 
 vallation, the Cavalry Barracks and the Arsenal of AVar. 
 
 Other objects of interest are near the center of the city. 
 The National Lihrary is on the calle del Ucayali on the right 
 hand side, at the end of the second block to the left or soutli- 
 east of the one on which the ]\Iaury is situated. One of the 
 first acts after the inauguration of the Ivepulilie, pi-evious, in- 
 deed, to the final battles of the war, was the creation of tlie 
 National Library. On the 17th of September, 1822, it was 
 opened to the public with a collection of about 12,000 vohinies, 
 many of which were of gi'cat value, rnfortuiuitely, while the 
 Chilian army was in occupation of Liiiui in ISSI, this library, 
 then containing 50,000 works, was ruthh-ssly destroyed, a por- 
 tion being carried to Chile, and the remainder scattered about 
 the streets or sold at auction by weight. The later restoration 
 of the library was chielly due to Dr. Kicartlo Talma, who re-
 
 82 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 mained its Director until 1912. Dr. Palraa by diligent effort 
 collected many of the old books and priceless manuscripts ; 
 many patriotic Peruvians made contributions; sympathetic 
 nations, Spain, Argentina, Ecuador, the United States, sent 
 gifts. A collection of 5000 volumes was presented by the 
 Smithsonian Institute. In 1884 the library was reopened with 
 28,000 volumes; it now contains 60,000. Still in its old loca- 
 tion, a building earlier occupied by the College of the Caciques, 
 an institution for the education of the descendants of the 
 Inca rulers, a new building is greatly needed and no doubt 
 will soon be provided. Seiior Manuel Gonzales is the present 
 director. Among the treasures of the library is an edition of 
 Cervantes' works called the Argamosilla, printed from silver 
 type. 
 
 In the same building on the floor above, are the rooms of 
 the Lima Geographical Society, designed especially to foster 
 geographical study and research in Peru. It has a consider- 
 able membership, including the most noted scholars and states- 
 men of the country ; the library contains many valuable works 
 and the leading geographical magazines of the world. The 
 Society of Mining Engineers long had rooms in this building 
 but have recently removed to their new quarters a few blocks 
 away. 
 
 Turning the corner to the right by the side of the library 
 building one will find at the next corner the Palace of Justice. 
 One block more after a second turn to the right brings one to 
 the calle de Azangaro, the Normal School for Girls occupying 
 a considerable portion of the block on the right. The entrance 
 is near the Church of San Pedro. Four blocks to the left down 
 Azangaro, but fronting on the calle del Inambari, is the Uni- 
 versity of San Marcos, the oldest in the Western Hemisphere, 
 founded in 1551, almost a century earlier than Harvard. 
 Established under a charter from Emperor Charles Y and his 
 mother, Queen Joana, it was at first in the monastery of Santo 
 Domingo and under the charge of that Order. Twenty years 
 later by order of Philip II the University was secularized, and 
 in 1574 it received the designation of San Marcos. In 1576 a 
 building was constructed for its use in the Plaza de la Inquisi- 
 cion. After two centuries in this location it was trans- 
 ferred to its present site, formerly that of the Jesuit college
 
 8TATLK OF BOLIVAH, PLAZA UE LA INQULSICION' 
 
 I'KHLVIAN MIM.MV, IMVl.U.snY oK SAN MAKios
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OP THE KINGS 83 
 
 of San Carlos, then united with the University. Dr. Don 
 Luis F. VilUu-an has been rector of the University since 1905. 
 The University embraces Schools or Departments of Law, 
 Medicine, Theology, Science, Philosophy and Letters, and Ad- 
 ministi-ative and Political Science, in which a high standard 
 of scholarship is maintained ; the iMedical School, as we have 
 seen, occupies a separate building. The rooms are grouped 
 around several patios. There is an assembly hall Avith a hand- 
 some carved ceiling, and in the museum are curious mummies. 
 A University Review is published monthly. A few years ago 
 a Centro was established, somewhat after the fashion of the 
 Harvard Union. Women are admitted to the University. 
 
 The Engineering School is in quite another direction on 
 the calle del Callao, four blocks from the southwest corner 
 of the Plaza de Armas. This, established in 1S76, continued 
 under the direction of the Polish engineer, Sefior Eduardo 
 Habich, until his death in 1911. The school has complete 
 la])oratories, and courses in nnning, civil, electric, and me- 
 chanical engineering; all of which in a country like Peru are 
 of infinite importance. 
 
 The fine large school for boys in a splendid building on 
 Avenue Alfonso Ugarte, the Collegio de Guadalupe, well de- 
 serves a visit. 
 
 The portion of Lima on the right bank of the river Rimae 
 should not be ignored. Passing from the Plaza by Carabaya 
 street, one comes to the fine new railway station of Dcscm- 
 parados, completed in the fall of 1912. After one block to 
 the left a turn to the right leads one to the bridge across the 
 Rimac, the river recently improved by being enclosed within 
 a suitable channel. So much water is drawn off for irrigation 
 all along its course that little is left in the ancient river bed. 
 To one who wishes to see the life of the comm(.)n people tiie 
 walk affords good opportunity, but a drive to the Jar din dc 
 Jos Dcscahos, the Garden of the Barefooted Friars, will be 
 generally preferred. The garden extends half a mile or more 
 along a broad avenue. It contains, besides i)lants and trees, 
 handsome urns, marble benches, and twelve statues represent- 
 ing the Signs of the Zodiac. At the end is a fountain, and 
 beyond, the ancient Church and Convent of the Friars under 
 the shadow of the hill, San Cristubal. A path leads up from
 
 84 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 this point, l)iit the more usual route is farther east. Return- 
 ing from the Garden, one may take the first turn to the left, 
 then one to the right past the Bull Ring, seating 8000 spec- 
 tators and called the largest in the New World. It lies 
 practically in front of the Balta Bridge, a modern structure 
 named for one of the Presidents. The Bull Ring, said to he 
 the second largest in the world, is on Sunday afternoons often 
 thronged with spectators to witness this cruel sport, which 
 will douhtless before many years be discontinued, as already 
 at Buenos Aires and in most other cities of South America. 
 Before returning by the Balta Bridge, the Alameda de Acho 
 on the right hand should be visited. This was once a fash- 
 ionable promenade and still boasts of large handsome trees, 
 tall poplars forming three roadways. 
 
 It would be a pity to ignore the Cerro or Hill of San Cris- 
 tobal, which rises 900 feet above the city. There is an easy 
 path by which the ascent may be made, but for the benefit of 
 the lame and the lazy an Aerial Tramway has recently been 
 established; the transit requiring 8 or 10 minutes begins at 
 Los Baiios del Pueblo near the Alameda de los Descalzos. 
 The summit on a clear day affords a delightful view of the 
 city, the irrigated valley, the hills, the mountains, and the 
 sea, which should well repay the effort of the climb, itself 
 agreeable except to the incorrigibly indolent. More enticing 
 than the view to some, will be the opportunity of visiting the 
 Great Toiver for Wireless Telegrapliy, which rises 350 feet 
 above the crest of the hill. It is, indeed, a triumph for wire- 
 less. Messages across the sea seem not so wonderful: but to 
 send them over mountains and broad plateau, over or through 
 a wall three and a half miles high and 100 miles thick appears 
 marvellous. This wireless station, one of the highest powered 
 in the world, has sent messages not only to Iquitos on the 
 Amazon, 1030 kilometers away, for which purpose it was espe- 
 cially designed, in order to ensure communication between the 
 central government and this important Peruvian commercial 
 outpost, but also to IManaos in Brazil, 2300 kilometers (1435 
 miles) distant. The great mountain range between the two 
 cities averages 18,000 feet in height, while be.yond are dense 
 tropical forests. The construction company did not venture 
 to guarantee the success of an untried service, promising only
 
 LIMA, THE CITY OF THE KINGS 85 
 
 1o build iin intermediate station if necessary. The great suc- 
 cess of tlic undertaking renders this sui)erflunus. Tlie station 
 at the other end is Itaya, two miles from Ljuitos. The towers 
 are identical, triangular steel structures, each weigliing 120 
 tons. They rest on a concrete base l)y a steel l)all point, in- 
 sulated by thick glass plates. Each is kept vertical by means 
 of three heavy steel cables at three angles. A power of 10 
 kilowatts is supplied but 7 only are used. The service was 
 inaugurated June 16, 1912, with suitable ceremonies lx)th at 
 Lima and Iquitos. President Leguia, other officials and cit- 
 izens to the number of 3000, made the ascent of the Cerro, 
 though the hilltop was not large enough to contain all, the 
 crowd as it were slipping over the edges. After various 
 speeches the President started the machinery. At 5.05 a mes- 
 sage of congratulation was sent and at 5.17 the reply was re- 
 ceived. Then was unveiled a bronze tablet bearing the in- 
 scription in Spanish : ' ' This station was inaugurated in 1912. 
 His Excellency, xVugusto B. Leguia, President of the Republic, 
 Dr. Jose ^Manuel Glarcia, ^Minister of Fomento, Dr. Edmundo 
 N. de Ilabich, Director of Fomento. A. E. Tamayo and K. J. 
 Ilolmvang, engineers in charge of construction. The Tele- 
 funken Company, June, 1912." 
 
 A monument wliich sliould not be overlooked by the tourist 
 is the Dos de Mayo standing in a circle, and passed by the 
 electric cars to Callao. This monument commemorates the 
 victory of I\Iay 2, 1866, when an attack of the Spanish fleet 
 upon Callao was repelled and the Spaniards were finally driven 
 fi-om the Pacific coast. A column of Carrara marble 75 feet 
 high is surmounted by a statue of victory. Around the base 
 are figures representing the countries of Peru, Bolivia, 
 Ecuador, and Chile.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 THE SUBURBS OF LIMA^TIIE OROYA RAILWAY— 
 CERRO DE PASCO 
 
 Chorillos. With sufficient time at one's disposal a few days 
 may be pleasantly spent in visiting the shore resorts near the 
 capital. The electric cars which pass on the calle de Abancay, 
 the third street southeast from the IMaury, are the means of 
 transit to I\Iiraflores, Barranco and Chorillos, all pleasant 
 places of residence, though Chorillos is especially fashionable. 
 The last named, before the Chilian war, was the most fre- 
 quented summer resort in South America, but after the battle 
 of Chorillos in 1881 it was completely destroyed by the in- 
 vaders. Rebuilt during the last quarter of a century, it is 
 again beautiful with many charming homes. The toA\Ti is 
 located 100 feet above the beach of a sheltered cove, which is 
 partly enclosed by a cliff. A promenade along the edge is a 
 fashionable resort for tourists and townspeople, to enjoy the 
 cool breezes, and the sunset in the broad Pacific. Close at 
 hand an eminence of 2000 feet called JMorro Solar enhances 
 the beauty of the scene. A shady pathway leads down to the 
 beach, which affords excellent bathing with a moderate surf. 
 The regular population of 3000, greatly increased in the sum- 
 mer, is daily further augmented by those who come for the 
 bathing and the other diversions of a watering place : boating, 
 music, dancing, etc. At the Casino are held many fashionable 
 social affairs ; and the Regatta Club gives frequent entertain- 
 ments when the bay, covered with boats of various descriptions, 
 presents a pretty spectacle. Worthy of a visit is the IMilitary 
 School here located, a fine institution for the education of 
 army officers, and an excellent training school for the Indian 
 soldiers. 
 
 Beyond Chorillos the electric cars continue by a tunnel 
 through Morro Solar to La Ilerradura, another bathing resort. 
 
 86
 
 THE SUBURBS OP LIMA 87 
 
 Barranco and Mu'aflores, nearer to J^iin.i, are almost continu- 
 ous with Chorillos and are connected by pleasant, shaded 
 driveway's. Ma<jilal< )ia, a shore resort still nearer Lima, is 
 reached by a dill'ereut electric car line. 
 
 A very popular resort with a tine new hotel, the Eden, is 
 La Punia, down beyond Callao, whence electric cars, connect- 
 ing with those from Lima, for five ccntavos carry passengers to 
 the extremity of tlie sandy point ever refreshed l)y cool l)reezes. 
 Here the Naval School's excellent new ])uilding is located. 
 
 Ancon. Twenty-five miles north of Lima, on the opposite 
 side from Ciiorillos, is xincon, more especially a health resort, 
 its sandy soil and dry atmosphere making it especially desir- 
 able for pei'sons witii pulmonary and bronchial atfections. 
 There is good bathing, a tennis court, one or two hotels, the 
 Grand said to be comfortable, and many cottages ; but it is less 
 attractive than the resorts at the south. It has, however, an 
 allurement peculiarly its own in being renowned as a necropo- 
 lis of pre-historic treasures. Ancon is reached by a steam 
 railway from the Desamparados station in an hour and a half 
 or so, and the ride gives one a view of the genuine unirrigated 
 desert. The joui'ney may now be pursued to the town of 
 Iluaeho, about 90 miles farther. 
 
 Pachacamac. Persons who are interested in antiquities 
 should make the excursion to Pachacamac, whose ruins are 
 believed to antedate any others in Peru and to go back two 
 or three thousand years. The place is not accessible by I'ail, 
 carriage, or boat, yet it may be visited in a single day by a 
 vigorous, enterprising person who is able to make suitable 
 arrangements in advance. The site of this aneient sanc- 
 tuaiy and city is nearly 25 miles from Lima, in the direc- 
 tion of Chorillos. Thither one should go by the earliest morn- 
 ing car, to be met there by a guide and horses with which to 
 pursue the journey, Dr, I\lax llile made extensive excavations 
 in this region. The ruins are in the Lurin Valley, the loveliest 
 south of Lima, watei-ed l)y a stream smalh-r than the Kimac 
 but of constant supply. In the period of the invasion it was 
 the more thickly populated of the t\\<i. AVnrs, and the elVorts 
 for the convei'sion of the natives liy irligious (n-ders caused 
 the ancient city in the course of the century following the 
 Spanish invasion to beconu; a scene of desolation.
 
 88 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Provisions for a substantial luncheon should be taken in 
 saddle bags, though fodder for the animals may doubtless be 
 procured at the hacienda near by of Don Vicente Silva. A 
 desert called the Tablada de Lurin is crossed between the 
 Rimac and Lurin valleys. Barren islands are in view on the 
 right with myriads of pelicans and other sea-fowl. The desert 
 sands drift over the ruins, on the north side of the valley, 600 
 yards from the ocean. A few tillandsia plants show a little 
 green in winter. The hooting owl, the lizard, and a small viper 
 are the only forms of life. The neighboring hills rise 150 to 
 250 feet above the desert. In the distance two villages with 
 their church spires may be seen, Pachacamac three miles back 
 from the sea on the other side of the river, and Lurin near the 
 coast, a mile and a half from the ruins. To the south beyond 
 is desert; to the east, 45 miles away, the outlying bulwarks of 
 the Andes rise 9000 feet. In an early period the coast for 120 
 miles from Supe to Huaman was under the sway of Pacha- 
 camac. There are extensive remains in many places about, 
 and traces of an ancient road with a wall along the center, 
 one side for the ruler and his retinue, the other for common 
 people, each section 16 feet wide. The place was conquered 
 by the Ineas 170 years before the invasion of the Spaniards, 
 when all its wealth of gold had already disappeared. The 
 ancient city, 21-^ miles long and V/s broad, included four 
 hills, on one of which in the center of the town the Incas later 
 erected a temple to the Sun. The original sanctuary to the 
 Creator god, not to be confounded with the Sun god of the 
 Incas, stood at the foot of a hill on the north side of the town 
 nearly on a level with the city. The temple which faced the 
 coast to the northwest was 400 feet long and 180 wide with 
 terraced sides leading to a plateau above, 330 by 130 feet. 
 There are rooms supposed to be for the reception of envoys, 
 others for sacrificial purpose. They were gorgeously decorated 
 with frescoes of bird and animal designs, Avith doors incrusted 
 W'ith coral, turquoise, and crystal. Pilgrims who came a thou- 
 sand miles with offerings were obliged to fast for twenty days 
 before entering the first court, and a year before ascending to 
 the holier shrine of extraordinary sanctity above. The ceme- 
 teries naturally furnished many valuable relics, mummies, 
 bones, and skulls, fragments of cloth, and a great variety of
 
 THE SUBURBS OF LIMA 89 
 
 articles. The cemetery connected with this temple was the 
 most crowded, though ])urial here was reserved lor princes 
 and i)ilgrims who brought rich oll'erings. ^lany objects have a 
 strong resemblance to those of Tiahuanaco. A slab of Chavin 
 de Huantar and a richly ornamented poncho at Ancon are of 
 similar style. It is estimated tliat there were from 60,000 to 
 80,000 graves here, some in open cemeteries, some in dwellings, 
 besides those in the temple. JMost of these were rifled ages ago. 
 This is thought to be a seat of the earliest civilization of the 
 coast, perhaps extending to Ecuador, while the Chimu culture 
 either descended from it or was influenced by it. The city wall 
 was from 11 to 13 feet high and 8 feet thick. There was an 
 inner as well as an outer wall. The streets were 13 to 16 feet 
 wide. There were large detached edifices, resembling ruins 
 at Iluatica near Lima, and one group of crowded buildings. 
 The term Pachacamac is of Quichua origin, the earlier name 
 being ditl'erent, perhaps Irma the same as Wiraqocha. The 
 Sun temple half a mile from the sea is on a terraced rocky 
 height a mile and a quarter in circumference; but it does 
 not compare with the I\Iexican pyramid Cholula. Tlie rooms 
 may be traced, and the stairway with steps four inches high 
 and one foot four inches wide. A convent for the Sun maid- 
 ens, accommodating two hundred, fronts the green fields. 
 The cemetery on the southeast terrace of the Sun temple shows 
 that all were women who had been strangled in obvious sac- 
 rifice ; thus suffered also many children of all ages for the pro- 
 pitiation of their cruel deity. 
 
 The Oroya Railway. AVhatever else may be omitted from 
 one's i)rograiiiiii(; of sightseeing in Peru, a journey over the 
 Oroya road should on no account be missed. Long enjoying 
 the reputation of the highest railway in the world, it affords 
 an opportunity to climb with ease in a few hours to a heigiit 
 as great as that of the summit of ]\Iont Plane, to behohl 
 scenery of wonderful grandeur, and a historic region of 
 remarkable mineral wealth, the second of the three great 
 longitudinal divisions of Peru. Fartiier on, with a lit- 
 tle more trouble, one may most conveniently obtain a 
 glimpse of the third and by far the largest of Peru's 
 three natural divisions; as yet thinly i>eupled and lit- 
 tle known, but ultinuitely, perhaps, to prove tlie richest.
 
 90 TIIK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 The practically rainless coast region from 50 to 100 miles 
 wide, all desert except where irrigated, we have already 
 seen. Next comes the sierra district ot" mountains and table- 
 land, from one to three hundred miles wide, where, beyond 
 the Coast Range, there is plenty of rain and snow. Varying 
 in height, width, and in the number of parallel mountain 
 chains, the greatest altitude is in the southern and central 
 portions, decreasing north of 7° S. Lat. The lofty snowclad 
 mountains, the multitude of lesser peaks, the lakes, small and 
 large, the countless streams, the delightful valleys, the deso- 
 late plateau sometimes called the f)una, cut by narrow gorges, 
 present a marvellous variety of scenery, climate, and produc- 
 tions. Here are two-thirds of the inhabitants of the country. 
 The forest region on the eastern slope "of the mountains with 
 the lowlands beyond, all called the montana, is at first won- 
 derfully beautiful with soft, genial climate, though below an 
 altitude of 2000 feet it becomes rather warm, in a few spots 
 unhealthy. 
 
 By the Oroya Railroad a great elevation is attained in 
 fewer hours than can be duplicated elsewhere in the world 
 except in balloon or aeroplane. Indeed, the time of the ascent 
 is so brief that some persons suffer from the sudden change 
 in the pressure of the atmosphere. This fact has given rise to 
 alarming representations, on the part of many native and 
 foreign residents, of the danger involved in the journey, so 
 that many tourists are frightened out of the excursion to 
 whom it would be a genuine delight. The truth is that of 
 the thousands who each month go over the road the majority 
 suffer from soroche, mountain sickness, not at all, or with little 
 and temporary discomfort. A slight headache is common; it 
 may be severe, or accompanied by nausea and vomiting. A 
 few have become dangerously ill and deaths have occurred, 
 as on Pike's Peak. Two classes of people should not take the 
 risk, those with weak hearts and those who are both stout and 
 full blooded. Persons merely delicate in a general way are 
 less likely to suffer inconvenience than some vigorous athletic 
 persons. One doubtful about his heart should have it ex- 
 amined. Apprehensive persons who would be sure to avoid 
 trouble may get off at Matucana, and a day or two later com- 
 fortably pursue the journey. It will be easier for every one
 
 THE OROYA RAILWAY 91 
 
 to go the day previous to Chosica to spend the night, thus 
 avoiding an unreasonably early start in the morning. Ordi- 
 nary prudence may suggest that one sliould be careful not to 
 over-eat the day before, and be very abstemious on the trip, 
 especially as to alcoholic liquors. At the highest points one 
 should move slowly or not at all. A brisk walk may produce 
 dizziness or worse. 
 
 The Central Railw^ay of Peru, a standard gauge line, was 
 begun in 1870 by the American financier, Henry ^leiggs, and 
 completed to Chiela, 88 miles from Callao, in 1S76. On 
 account of the troubles resulting from the Chilian War it did 
 not reach Oroya until 1893. For some years this was the 
 terminus of the road and in one sense is so still, as the natural 
 continuation would be east, over to the tnontana country. 
 Tiiere are, however, branches in two different directions, north 
 and south; the former, an American line of the same gauge 
 to Cerro de Pasco, the latter, a part of the Central system 
 owned by the Peruvian Corporation, now open to Huancayo 
 and being gradually extended to the southwest, ultimately to 
 reach Cuzco, where it will connect with the Southern Railway 
 managed by the same corporation. Both of the hranclu s are 
 on the line of the Pan American Railway, by which it will 
 some day be possible, perhaps within a decade, certainly in 
 two, to go l)y rail from New York to Buenos Aires, a wonder- 
 ful journey through ever changing and delightful scenes. By 
 the time these 250 miles from Huancayo to Cuzco are finished, 
 which should be by 1918, all the southern part from Lima to 
 l>uenos Aires will be ready, as Argentina's poi-tion is now 
 <'()iiip]e1e and Bolivia's will be finislu'd soon. The section from 
 ())uito to Panama will linger longest. When finished, the road 
 in my opinion will be a far greater bond of uniim between 
 North and South America than the Panama Canal. 
 
 The Oroya Railroad follows the Riiiiai; Valley up to its cul- 
 minating point, with an occasional detitur into a side canon 
 to gain additional height. It was a man of courage and large 
 ideas who forty years ago planned t(t climb with the iron horse, 
 instead of the ancient buri-o and llama, the steep and lofty 
 wall which, rising in its lonu r points to a height of from 14,000 
 to 17,000 feet, stretches for 1000 miles along the coast of Peru 
 within 100 miles of the sea. With an average grade of four
 
 92 TTTE ROriTTI AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 per cent it was the second road from the Pacific to cross the 
 continental divide, tiiougli it still remains to be continued, as 
 Meiggs planned, down to a point open to steam navigation on 
 one of the l)ranches of the Amazon. 
 
 Setting out on this trip from Lima, one must rise early, as 
 the train leaves the Desamparados Station at 6,50 a. m., Mon- 
 day, Wednesday, and Friday. By strenuous insistence the 
 night before, you may be able to have coffee and rolls brought 
 to your room before your departure ; but if you fail, a ten 
 minutes ' halt at Chosica at half past eight affords opportunity 
 to repair the omission. 
 
 The lower part of the Rimac Valley has an apparently 
 level floor of considerable breadth, with vegetation of a sub- 
 tropical character, irrigation affording an ample w'ater supply. 
 At first banana groves and fields of sugar-cane are numerous ; 
 patches of Indian corn and alfalfa continue far up the canon. 
 The view, for a short distance somewhat open among isolated 
 hills, narrows as we enter a genuine valley with steep and 
 ever higher walls, their slopes thickly terraced and bearing 
 remains of ancient highways and villages, evidence of a 
 formerly far greater population than now. After much wan- 
 dering among the ruins near Chosica, Professor Solon I. 
 Bailey estimated an earlier number of 6000 inhabitants, where 
 now there is one-tenth of that number. 
 
 Chosica. This town, at train time a busy place, is growing 
 rapidly since, with several daily trains, it has become a suburb 
 of the capital 25 miles distant. It is especially a winter resort, 
 as, located just beyond the edge of the fog bank or cloud which 
 in that season hangs over the coast, it has plenty of sunshine. 
 It is much patronized by those natives and foreigners who 
 find the chilly dampness from May to October rather trying 
 to their health. The Gran Hotel de la Estacion, close to the 
 station, affording comfortable rooms, is the best place to stay 
 over night. On the opposite side of track and river are many 
 pleasant dwellings in pretty gardens and another hotel, 
 rather a Sanatorium, fitted up M'itli all modern appliances 
 such as sun rooms, electric apparatus for baths, and many 
 other devices to aid the semi-invalid or debilitated to recover 
 his strength. In the season, Chosica is served with three daily
 
 THE OROYA RAILWAY 93 
 
 trains each way, inelnding an express with pai'lor car in imo 
 hour. 
 
 Above Chosica the scenery becomes wilder, the vaHey nar- 
 rower. The fall of the Rimac is so rapid as not only to compel 
 many curves and V's but to make an incursion into a side 
 valley desirable. Thus the road goes half a mile up the Ver- 
 rugas Gorge which it crosses by the highest bridge on the road, 
 225 feet, with a length of 575, returning on the other side to 
 the Rimac at a considerably greater elevation. Frequently 
 the floor of the Rimac Canon has room only for the rushing 
 stream. The road passes high up on the slope, or through one 
 of the sixty-five tunnels. JMany times the river is crossed; 
 sixty-seven bridges may be counted. At one point the side 
 walls are so precipitous that it was necessary to lower M'ork- 
 men from the top of the cliff above. Sitting in a swing they 
 cut footholds in the rock preparatory to the beginning of the 
 work. Some of the cliffs are more than a third of a mile in 
 perpendicular height. 
 
 Matucana. Whenever the valley broadens out there is a 
 town, as at the breakfast station, i\Iatucana, which at an alti- 
 tude of 7788 feet affords a meal of several courses at the price 
 of one sol. The hotel furnishes comfortable accommodations 
 for those who think it wiser to take the climb in instalments, 
 or for any with arclui'ologieal tastes who may like to investigate 
 some ruins a few miles down the valley on an eminence rising 
 from the north side of the river. The excursion may be 
 made from ]\ratucana in a long day on horsel»ack with a good 
 horse and guide, even on foot by one so inclined. The remains 
 are of especial interest on account of a theory that they are 
 relics of a Pygmy City; that the little people once its inhabit- 
 ants were expelled by ruthless invaders and tied ovi-r the 
 mountains into the Amazon basin. Fortifications, house walls, 
 and subterranean chambers still exist, the small si/e of the 
 rooms, the doorways three feet high, being adduced as evidence 
 in favor of the little people. Others believe tlie ruins are those 
 of an ordinary ancient fortress. 
 
 Beyond ]\Iatucana the scenery becomes still grander. The 
 walls a])0ve sometimes look dangerous with overhanging rocks, 
 or with boulders half out of a steep earth slope, appearing just
 
 H TUK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ready to roll down. Slides occasionally occur, especially in 
 the rainy season, but accidents are rare ; for going up it is easy 
 to iiiako a sudden pause, and coming down a hand-car goes 
 ahead of i)assenger trains to make sure that the track is clear. 
 Bridges and tunnels are the order of the day, gorges and cliffs, 
 at last, shining mountains. The Gorge of Infernillo (Little 
 Hell), black and deep, you are whisked across in a moment, 
 and from one tunnel into another. Tamboraque, the first small 
 mining town, is really in the Sierra. Rio Blanco and Casa- 
 palca farther on are important smelting centers, the last above 
 13,000 feet. Long before this it has grown cold and wraps are 
 in order, furs perchance not amiss, good woolen underwear 
 desirable. Chicla, a considerable place, reached before Casa- 
 palca, is notable for having five parallel tracks one above 
 another, curves, tunnels, and two V's being required to climb, 
 by three miles of track, 500 feet in a short distance up the 
 valley. At Ticlio there may be a chance for tea. One 
 venturing from the car should here step slowly and care- 
 fully if he would avoid a slight ringing in the ears. 
 One not feeling perfectly well is wiser to let some one 
 else bring the tea. A bottle of salts of ammonia should 
 be at hand in case of headache or vertigo, and fresh air 
 may be desirable. A short stop is made just before entering 
 the Galera Tunnel, 4000 feet long. On the right at the en- 
 trance of the tunnel is a rounded brown hill top, IMonte 
 Meiggs, often without snow though 17,575 feet above the sea. 
 This altitude is confused by many with that of the railroad, 
 about 2000 feet lower; for which the manner of printing the 
 time-table may be responsible. East of the continental divide 
 the fine snow peaks and glaciers are in striking contrast to 
 the bareness in the dry season on the coast side. Beyond the 
 snow mountains, the scenery diminishes in grandeur to Oroya, 
 12,050 feet, where the train is now due about 3.30. An ob- 
 servation car is greatly to be desired on this ride. If the 
 conductor can be persuaded to let you stand on the rear plat- 
 form of the last ear, this on a regular train is the best position 
 available. An open freight car now affords the finest pos- 
 sible outlook, but most persons will prefer a more comfortable 
 seat with diminished view. From the station Ticlio, altitude 
 15,665 feet, the highest point on the main road, there is a
 
 UN TUt i)Ul)VA UAILNSAV
 
 CERRO DE PASCO 95 
 
 short branch line to tlie mining town Moroeocha, beautifully 
 situated among lakes and glaciers, this branch crossing the 
 divide at 15,865 feet, a trifle higher than INIont Blane, and 
 absolutely the highest point in tlie world now reached by 
 rail. Tlio gi-andeur of the varied scenes on the wonderful 
 Oroya Railway baffles all description and must be seen to be 
 realized in the smallest degree. For those who are unable to 
 devote the two days necessary to enjoy the entire trip, it 
 is sometimes possible to make a Sunday excursion part way 
 up the valley to Rio Blanco, 20 miles above ]\Iatucana, re- 
 turning the same afternoon; much better than nothing, but 
 with a loss of the more splendid scenes above. At Oroya 
 there are two hotels, the Junhi and the Grand, with little to 
 choose between them. No luxuries are provided ; a fair dinner, 
 a bed, and morning coifee are supplied ; but more fortunate 
 are those who have friends at court and are entertained by 
 some of tlie railway officials. At Oroj'a one may have his 
 first sight of llamas, the ancient burden bearers of Peru, 
 dignified, graceful animals, when moving with their ordinary 
 slow walk, ])ut not when startled into a run. Be cautious 
 about making free with them, as if they resent your advances 
 they an; liable to spit in your face, though they do not look 
 as if they could be so rude. 
 
 Those Avho are making the South American Tour iu a 
 leisurely manner, or who have an eye to business, may not 
 pause at Oroya, but changing cars may continue noi-tji the 
 same day to Cerro de Pasco, or after a night in Oroya may 
 pursue the railroad journey southward to Iluancayo, or may 
 on horseback go over another mountain range, then down, 
 down, to Tarma, La Pierced, and tlie montnua count i-y. 
 
 Cerro de Pasco is reached by a journey of about 00 miles 
 over a generally hilly or rolling countiy, with few high moun- 
 tains visible and those afar of¥. Lake Junin is jjassed ])e- 
 fore (lai'k, a resort of ducks and other wild fowl, hence a 
 field of sj)ort foi- those fond of game. Here, be it remembered, 
 was the next to the last liattle of the War of Independence; 
 and the soldiers in those days did not come up in cars either. 
 Indians abound at the stations along the road, (^uiehuas. dif- 
 fering little from their ancestors of 400 years ago. The town 
 of Ceri-o is reached about f)..'iO p. m., but as a dining car
 
 96 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 is attached to the train one is well fed at a seasonable hour. 
 The best if not the only hotel in the place is the Univctso 
 on the main plaza of the town, to which tlie stranger will need 
 a guide, as the station is on the outskirts of the old city. 
 The hotel is not nuich to boast of, but the night I spent there 
 was perfectly comfortable. Again, if one has friends at court 
 among the officials of the Mining Company he is lucky, but 
 naturally they cannot entertain all tourists. The place is 
 of exceptional interest as one of the highest raining camps 
 of any size, and the highest town of any importance in the 
 world. There are at least 8000 people here at an altitude 
 of about 14,300 feet. The Cerro de Pasco Mining Company, 
 composed of half a dozen or more well known American 
 millionaires, has spent it is said towards $30,000,000 in the 
 purchase and development of property here and at Morococha, 
 in building the railway from Oroya, in erecting a large smelt- 
 ing plant nine miles from Cerro with buildings for employees, 
 on coal mines, and on other things essential to a great property. 
 In earlier days these mines were worked for silver, but now 
 copper is the chief production. Recently an average of 400,- 
 000 lbs. 98 per cent pure has been turned out from the smelter 
 each month. The privilege of visiting the mines is accorded 
 to few, but all may observe the great open pits resembling 
 quarries, several hundred feet deep, where the surface, under- 
 mined years ago by great tunnels and chambers, at last 
 caved in. The titanic forces of nature by some mighty effort 
 here cast upward a wonderful mass of minerals, gold, silver, 
 copper, etc., not in veins, but in chunks. This has been 
 called the richest copper deposit in the world, but others dis- 
 pute the claim. Vanadium is one of the various minerals 
 found not far away. The town with its many Indians, Peru- 
 vians, and Americans is a curious place on this great 
 plateau from 50 to 100 miles wide, a plateau diversified by 
 hills, fringed by distant mountains, and cut by occasional 
 caiions, from which fruit and vegetables are brought for the 
 sustenance of the dwellers above. It is possible to go on by 
 train from Cerro to Goyllarisquisga, 26 miles farther, on the 
 edge of a canon commanding a fine view" of the great moun- 
 tain, La Yiuda, believed by some to exceed Aconcagua in 
 height, A concession has recently been granted by the Peru-
 
 PLAZA, CERRO I>E PASf'O 
 
 NKAH lilt. .-lOLUCfc Ol- iUl. AM...; .., i^^l.\.li^.-.uS;
 
 TO THE A:\IAZ0N basin 97 
 
 vian Government to ^Ir. Alfred ^leCune, now transferred to 
 the Amazon Pacific Co., to build a railroad from Goyllaris- 
 • juisga, down to Puca Alpa on the I'eayali Kiver, a point four 
 tlays from Iqiiitos. Operations have commenced. An im- 
 mense amount of rich territory will be opened up by this 
 road, fine grazing- and agricultural lands, and rubber counti-y 
 below. Ultimately the town (ioyllarisquisga will be connected 
 by rail with Recuay, the entire line from Oroya forming a 
 link in the Pan American railroad. From Cerro or the 
 Smelter, a three days' horseback ride would bring one to Lake 
 Santa Ana, the source of the IMarafion or Amazon. A mile or 
 two below the Smelter is a valual)le silver mine and smelter 
 in operation, property of Senor Fernandini. 
 
 Huancayo. The trip from Oroya south to Iluancayo is 
 through a valley of somewhat lower elevation, hence of more 
 cheerful character. The town of Jauja on this line is con- 
 sidered an excellent place for consumptives, for whom the 
 coast is much too damp. Huancayo, 78 miles from Oroya, 
 is now the terminus, but work has been pushed for 20 miles 
 farther and ere long Ayacucho will be reached, the scene 
 of the final battle, compelling the Avithdrawal of the Spaniards. 
 
 Tarma. The expedition to Tarma and the montana may 
 attract a few who can spare a week or ten days for this 
 delighlful trip. Animals to Tarma may be obtained at Oroya 
 for 5 or 6 soles each. With saddle-bags, no baggage animals 
 are needed. It is well to set out from Oroya by 9 a. m., 
 in order to i)ass over the cumhrc before the afternoon breeze 
 begins to blow and to arrive in good season at Tarma, a 
 ])retty town at an altitude of about 10,000 feet. Tiierc are 
 two hotels where lodging may be had at modest prices, and 
 at the Umberto horses may be engaged for the ride to La 
 .Merced. Luncheon nuist be taken from Oroya, l)ut beyond 
 Tai-ma there are plact'S on the road where it may be procured. 
 On the cumhrc 2000 feet above Oroya, all is brown and bare, 
 but at tlie farther edge of the l)road pass there- is a line view 
 of distant mountains and valleys. Not far down, green will 
 api>ear, pivsenlly a house or two, a pretty stream, a few 
 calla lilies. From Tarma onwai-d there are plenty of trees, 
 growing as it wei-e of their own aeeoid, a pleasing ciiange 
 from the plateau and the western side. The next day
 
 98 
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 luDclieoii is at Palca, aud before night one should reach 
 Iluaeapistana, 40 kms., a delightful spot. The third day one 
 has luncheon at San Ramon and spends the night at La 
 Merced, 135 kms., which with an altitude of less than .'JOOO feet 
 is really in the tropical country. The delights of this journey, 
 the beautiful canon lined with verdure, is a contrast indeed to 
 the bare sublimity of the other side. The ro ad is excel l ent 
 pvpopi^ip nnp plapo iH^twem Oroya and Tar jna^ Thcii&Iapfel 
 rom antic tunne lfiL_i ine susioc nsiou^ bridges, swiii ging^ but that 
 doesno harm 
 
 ive i experience. T his road 
 Is now the 4iighway from Lima to the Atlantic by way of 
 Iquitos, and at the moment it is probably the most com- 
 fortable route to cross the center of the continent. With good 
 Jvick_the JQon^a^y fro m Lima t o Iquitos may ^^be_mad e in 16 
 days, nineof these on ^jiorseback froj n Oroya jto Puer to 
 IHiSSupT'aneda? 
 ol' six d'Sys' 
 
 _bycanoe_toIEiiHQ^Gr mird in five 
 
 JitPBTTi lanpr'h in TrpitAS At thlS city ^t 15,- 
 
 ^p eople a larger boat may _be_takenJoiL T^ra ^ r INew York. 
 "BTfEthat is another story. By way of Cerro de Pasco and 
 Iluanuco, the journey from Lima to Iquitos is ten days. A 
 few hours beyond La Merced is the Perene coffee plantation 
 belonging to the Peruvian Corporation. In this section land 
 is cheap, and with the mercury always in the eighties, one so 
 inclined may be happy, leading the simple life. The Indians 
 about here are fine looking, whiter than many of the Spanish, 
 and are quiet, peaceful people ; though others beyond are so 
 fierce that it is unsafe to pass through their territory. Hav- 
 ing been ill-treated by white rubber gatherers and some other 
 so-called civilized men, they allow no whites among them.
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY— AREQUIP A 
 
 From the charm of the Rimac Valley and the City of the 
 Kings it is difficult to escape, but on a four months' tour 
 not more than ten days can be spared for this region, fourteen 
 at the outside. To Mollendo, the next place of debarkation, 
 the voyage may ];e pursued by any one of the three lines of 
 steamers previously mentioned. If a through ticket to this 
 port or to Valparaiso has not been purchased, one may elect 
 to go on one of the Kosmos boats, a very comfortable German 
 Line Mhieh in 1911 afforded an especial advantage to tourists 
 with heavy baggage, going up to Bolivia. These boats lie over 
 two weeks at Antofagasta, taking on freight at near-by ports; 
 so that leaving one's heavy baggage on board, one may make 
 the trip from ]\Iollendo to Arequipa, Cuzco, and La Paz, re- 
 joining tlie same ship at Antofagasta two weeks and three 
 days from the time of going ashore at Mollendo. Persons 
 patronizing any of the three lines from Panama, may by 
 especial arrangement with the purser have their baggage 
 checked through to Valparaiso, to reclaim it at the Custom 
 House there when they arrive. 
 
 The express steamers south from Callao arrive at Mol- 
 lendo on the second morning after sailing. As the daily 
 train for Arequipa leaves at 12:35 p. m. there is ample time 
 to disembark, have the baggage examined, take breakfast, 
 ahnncrzo, price one sol, at the Hotel Ferrocarril just above the 
 railway station, and perliaps look al)Out a little before going 
 aboard the train. A through ticket, jirice 40 sohs, to La Paz 
 shoultl l)e purchased, as tliis saves considerable bother, permits 
 stopping off at Arequipa, and for the trip to Cuzco at Juliaca, 
 and saves a trifle over the local tickets. All hand baggage 
 may be taken into the car without charge, but there is a heavy 
 tariff on ti'unks or anytliing that is checked, so much so that 
 two heavy trunks will approximate the cost of one ticket. 
 
 99
 
 lOO THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Most persons will be able to manage with hand luggage only, 
 not forgetting, however, that wraps and warm clothing will 
 1)0 needed on the plateau above. 
 
 Mollendo is a busy port, in Peru second to Callao in com- 
 merce, though far behind in other ways. It has really no 
 harbor at all, in spite of a small breakwater recently built; 
 the rollers and surf often look a bit awesome and the barrel 
 is frequently called into requisition. Rarely the sea is so 
 rough that passengers are carried on to the next port, whence 
 they may return at their own expense. Seven or eight miles 
 north is an excellent quiet haven, among the best on the 
 Pacific, Matarani, to which there is much talk of transferring 
 the port, especially since most of the business portion of J\Iol- 
 lendo was destroyed by fire, April 2, 1912. From the 
 Matarani Bay the railroad journey would be nearly twenty 
 miles shorter and the ascent to the top of the bluffs would 
 have a one per cent lower grade. It is hoped that the trans- 
 fer will not long be delayed. 
 
 The tariff for disembarking at Mollendo is higher than at 
 other ports, four-oared boats being generally used. For one 
 passenger it is S.l ; if there are more than three in one boat, 
 60 ctvs. each : children under twelve, 30 ctvs. Parcels of 
 ordinary size or small trunks are 50 ctvs. each to the mole, 
 and as much more to the station : large trunks 70 ctvs. and 60 
 more to station. With much baggage for several passengers 
 a bargain for the whole may be made. The boatmen are liable 
 to ask double what it is worth or what they are willing to ac- 
 cept. Peruvians generally pay one-half or one-third as much 
 as strangers. 
 
 Mollendo is not an attractive place, between ^l-Ay and 
 November subject to a fine mist or drizzle, and having little 
 sunshine. It is, nevertheless, a health resort, but the most 
 melancholy one it was ever my lot to visit. Yet many persons 
 are benefited b}^ coming from the greater altitudes of Arequipa 
 and La Paz, even though the place be damp and cheerless. 
 AVith an hour to spare one may stroll around the town or 
 along the beach where the waves are rolling in from Australia 
 or other remote region, or may climb the rocky promontory 
 to watch the high breaking surf.
 
 THE SOUTIIEKX RAILWAY 101 
 
 After leaving- the station the train for several miles hugs 
 the sandy shore, then turning away soon begins to climb the 
 bluff, here about 3000 feet high. The face is irregular with 
 steep slopes cut by many canons. The road winds along 
 up one of these, then on the face of a projecting slope, the 
 car having first one side toward the sea, then the other, and 
 heading in turn towards all points of the compass. At Tambo 
 Station about 1000 feet up, there is a pretty view down into 
 the Tambo Valley, its level floor green with sugar-cane and 
 other agricultural products. AVomen from below stand by 
 the car windows with fruit and other edibles to sell. The 
 ever changing prospect is a continual source of pleasure, 
 especially near the close of the wet season, when the upper 
 half of the slopes is quite green, mostly with bushes of 
 heliotrope all in blossom. At other times there is only sand, 
 not a particle of verdure, but many black sticks, some day to 
 be rejuvenated into glowing life. It is a long and devious 
 way to the edge of the plateau, Avhere a sudden change is 
 experienced. The green if any is left behind, a sandy desert 
 is before, though the dampness, in the winter, continues. The 
 gradual change from the gray mist to the bright desert sun- 
 shine if oljserved is most interesting, and then to look back- 
 ward upon the gray cloud from which you have emerged. 
 Here, perhaps, you have your first view of an absolute desert ; 
 no wells are useful, and for the stations along the track, 
 even for ^lollendo itself, -water is pii)ed down from near 
 Arecpiipa, 100 miles distant. The plateau is covered with 
 deep yellow sand and scattering stones, some as black as coal. 
 Here is the desert you have dreamed of: no sage-brush, no 
 blade of grass relieves the burning sand. Not that the sand 
 l)urns here, but in some sections it is hot indeed. The monot- 
 ony is relieved by graceful gray sand dunes from three to 
 twenty feet high, crescent-shaped, moving slowly along at the 
 rate of sixty feet a year. In the distance are variegated 
 liills. gray, red, yellow, brown, and wliite, and the great moun- 
 tains. El j\Iisti and Chaciiani, with snow caps varying in 
 dimensions according to the time of the year and the charac- 
 ter of the season, Pichu-Picliu. a long range sliglitly lower. 
 Some of the stations have a glint of green, a suuiU oasis in
 
 102 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the deserl, others not a sign of verdure. Vitor is quite a 
 little place Avitli a hotel kept by an ancient Belgian, a neat, com- 
 fortable little establishment, used as a health resort for persons 
 with weak hearts, for whom Arequipa is too high or Mol- 
 lendo too damp. It is a starting point for those who would 
 ride across the desert to the Vitor Canon close by, the Sihuas 
 Canon beyond, and the IMajes Valley still more remote, at the 
 head of which i\It. Coropuna, 21,000 feet, is situated; ascended 
 for the first time, July 16, 1911, by ]\liss Annie S. Peck and 
 party, A railway is soon to be constructed between Vitor 
 and the ]\Iajes Valley, which will open for increased traffic 
 a fine agricultural and mineral section, the products of which 
 are now brought by trains of burros across the desert. A 
 little above Vitor the train enters the hills and presently 
 passes along the edge of the fine Vitor Caiion, the floor of 
 Avhich is 500 or 1000 feet below. Trains of llamas may be 
 seen, ancient ruins, a suburban town, Tingo, then if darkness 
 has not fallen comes an enchanting view of Arequipa on the 
 verdant slope of the great volcano El Misti, with Chachani 
 and Pichu-Pichu also in the background. 
 
 Arequipa 
 
 Hotels. Morosini Parodi, Grand Hotel Central, Royal Hotel, 
 Hotel Europe. 
 
 At the bustling railway station, at the car windows, 
 if not within, boys and men will appear who wish to 
 seize your baggage and carry it to the trams. Hotel runners 
 perhaps have previously entered the car. Behind the sta- 
 tion a long row of tram cars drawn by little mules was 
 formerly found, already probably superseded by the promised 
 electrics. Before taking a car decision should be made as 
 to what hotel wall be patronized. The ]\Iorosini Parodi is 
 by many called the best, but I was never so fortunate as to 
 find there a vacant room. Their table is particularly com- 
 mended ; the main building containing the restaurant Venezia 
 is on the west side of the Plaza de Armas, and there are sev- 
 eral annexes. The Grand Hotel Central and the Royal Hotel, 
 the first on the left, the second on the right of the calle 
 iMercaderes a block or two from the Cathedral and Plaza are
 
 ON THE SOUTHEKN KAILWAY OF PERU 
 
 UELKJlOtb i'KOCESSlON, EL Ml.-SIl AT lllK iUl.UT
 
 AREQUIPA 103 
 
 both fairly comfortable with perhaps a slight preference for 
 the former, where electric lights and bells are in service and 
 hot and cold baths announced, wliich does not mean private 
 baths en suite. Few of tliese will be found after leaving the 
 ]\Iaury until you arrive at Buenos Aires. From some of the 
 upper rooms of the Central possibly a fine view of IMisti may 
 be enjoyed. The prices at each of the hotels range from 
 four to six soles per day, according to room and bargaining 
 ability. This includes everything but bath, which is with 
 difficulty had at all. Quinta Bates, a pension presided over 
 by an American lady, is said to be far better than the hotels ; 
 but its popularity with the residents is so great that few tran- 
 sients can be accommodated. A respectable hotel of lower 
 price, near the station, is convenient for one leaving by the 
 early morning train. 
 
 Areciuipa, at an altitude of 7549 feet (we are still within 
 the tropics), has by day a climate of perennial June, In- night 
 one of October or November. The evening air in winter is 
 chilly enough to make many men, even natives, wear a light 
 overcoat and some ladies, furs ; at the same time others appear 
 on the street in thin summer clothing. The city, the second 
 in Peru in size and in commercial importance, has a popula- 
 tion of about 40,000. It was founded in 1540 by the Span- 
 iards, though there was a pre-existing Indian settlement, a 
 natural location on account of an ample water supply from 
 the river Chili. A garden has lieen made here in the midst 
 of the desert, in a spot sheltered from winds by the moun- 
 tains, enjoying a delightful climate, and a very beautiful pros- 
 pect. 
 
 Sight-seeing begins with tlie principal plaza which lias tlie 
 Cathedral on one side, and on the other three the finest stone 
 portales in South America. Behind these are many of the 
 principal shops, dry goods, confectioners', etc. The Cathedral 
 is a fine structure, with an interior more imposinij than the 
 outside view. Begun in 1G12, it was constructed with great 
 elaboration and contained many costly treasures. These with 
 the interior were largely destroyed by fire in 1844. The re- 
 building which consumed twenty years was hardly over when 
 the great eartli(|ual«^ of 186S occurred. Fortunately tli(> work 
 was too substantial to be overthrown. Sj^lcndid columns sup-
 
 104 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 port the great arches of tlie three naves, producing an effect 
 unusually n()l)le and impressive. From the lower side of 
 the Plaza, in the wonderfully clear atmosphere, the beautiful 
 cone-shaped ]\listi presents an admirable picture with Cha- 
 cluini a trifle higher on the left and Pichu-Pichu a little lower 
 on tlie right, in the moonlight a scene of rare loveliness. 
 
 Other noteworthy churches are those of Santo Domingo, and 
 the Jesuits', the latter, La Compania, near a lower corner of 
 the Plaza, having a noticeable carved stone facade and, an 
 uncommon feature, an altar in the open air. The people 
 are noted for their culture and for their devotion to the 
 church, the city having the reputation of being the most 
 bigoted in South America, a reputation shared by several 
 others. There is no objection to one's practicing his own re- 
 ligion in an inconspicuous manner, but there has been serious 
 opposition to proselyting. Nevertheless, the Evangelical 
 Mission of England is now carrying on a work, especially 
 among the Indians, in which personal hygiene and sanitary 
 modes of life are taught in connection with moral and re- 
 ligious instruction, with less friction on the part of the higher 
 classes than formerly. 
 
 The fine new Puhlic Market occupying a whole square, 
 about two and a half acres, deserves a visit. The building 
 which cost $280,000 is of a pink and white volcanic stone 
 locally called sillar, with a roof of corrugated iron arranged 
 to give good ventilation. At the four corners are four build- 
 ings, one a hotel and restaurant, the other three for storage 
 of surplus stocks of fish, meat, and vegetables. 
 
 Some tourists may like to visit the splendid new hospital 
 of Arequipa, called the finest of its kind in South America, 
 named after the Goyeneche family, Arequipauians now resi- 
 dent in Paris, who have devoted the sum of $625,000 to the 
 buildings and their equipment. The grounds embrace about 
 eight acres of gently sloping land, with the main entrance at 
 the head of a broad avenue. In front of the gate is a beautiful 
 Gothic chapel, with Gothic administration buildings at each 
 side of the entrance. Beyond the chapel are the wards, the 
 men's on the left including a military section; the women's 
 on the right, together with the residence for the nurses, who 
 are Sisters of Charity. There are especial apartments for
 
 AREQUIPA 105 
 
 paying patients, with and without baths. Also there is a 
 hydro-therapic building eciuipped for every sort of bath, 
 available for use by outsiders: operating rooms, kitchen, 
 laundry, morgue, disinfecting stoves, electric lights, and ample 
 water supply. All the buildings are of stone, well ventilated, 
 and a fine clock adorns a tower. The hospital was inaugurated 
 January 20, 1912. 
 
 The Garden of Scfior Lcopoldo Liicioni is a picturesque 
 spot to be visited by every stranger. Vine-ccvered walls, ar- 
 bors of grapes, heavily laden fniit trees, an avenue of fine 
 cedars, flower-bordered walks, roses, and carnations adorn the 
 place; almost every variety of fruit and vegetable seems to 
 grow in this delightful climate, and plants, seeds, and cut- 
 tings are yearly sent by the owner to European, and to other 
 South American cities. Planted by the owner 26 years ago, 
 it is now one of the attractions and ])enefactions of Arequipa. 
 
 Near the cit}', about two miles from the center, is a spot 
 which is a strong reminder of home, the name Harvard being 
 familiar to every American. This is the Observatory, one 
 of the most important and best equipped in South America, 
 established here in 1891 after considerable study of various 
 locations along the West Coast in search of a site both fairly 
 accessible and favored with clear skies. In addition to vari- 
 ous other instruments there is a 24-inch Bruce photographic 
 doublet, the largest and most powerful of the kind in the 
 world, and a 13-incli Boyden telescope, which may be used for 
 either visual or photographic work. ]\rore than 100,000 photo- 
 graphs of the Southern Heavens here made are now in the 
 Harvard Observatory at Cam])ridge, many new stars have 
 been discovered and magnitudes determined. i\Ieteorological 
 observations are taken twice daily, and were made for some 
 years in other places, the most notable, on the summit of 
 El ]\Iisti, 19,200 feet, the greatest altitude where a long 
 series of observations has ever been recorded. The dwelling 
 of the Director is a very homelike structure, from the 
 veranda of which there is a beautiful view of INIisti close 
 at hand, of Cliachani a little more distant, and over the city of 
 Arequipa. and the great desei't ])eyond. Visitors are welcome 
 in the afternoon, but the evenings are devoted to work. 
 
 Six miles beyond the Observatory, following the Cliili river,
 
 106 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 is tlie l*o\ver Station of the Electric Society oi" Lima, a pleasant 
 ride; but in the plant, only the specialist would have great 
 interest. 
 
 Ascent of Misti, 19,200 feet. A imi()ue possibility which 
 may appeal to a few, to those who say that they like to climb 
 mountains as far as they can ride, is presented by the beauti- 
 ful Misti. For, years ago, when observations were to be made 
 on the summit, a road was constructed, i. e., a narrow bridle 
 path, to the very to p of the m ountain, a nd a stone hut was 
 erected at about the altitude of tlie summit of Mont Blanc, 
 where the observers might pass the night on the way. While, 
 it may not look very distant, the top o f the mountain is 11 . 
 ^ nTHes m a straight line from t he Harvard Observatory ^and _ 
 ^ 3 D miles aruuud by Llie roa cl, which from there makes the 
 /Je«^w«^complete circuit of the mountain before reaching the top. 
 -f One desirous of making the trip should consult the Director 
 
 ^ J ^ oi the Observatory, which may be done by telephone, to know 
 lUa /v«»«if Francisco is available as guide and if he can provide mules. 
 ^ Having made the ascent more than 100 times Francisco may 
 "^Q be relied upon. He may charge S.8 for each animal and as 
 <^ much more for himself, or he may have doubled his prices 
 within the last ten years. He may indeed be dead, in which 
 case probably there is another who may serve. Setting out 
 by eight o'clock, with plenty of wraps and provisions, one 
 will not be likely to arrive at the INI. B. hut much before dark. 
 The way goes to the right of the mountain up to the Plateau 
 of the Bones, 13,300 feet, between Misti and Pichu-Pichu, 
 where passed the ancient highway to Cuzco and Bolivia ; then 
 it turns directly towards the summit, to the jM. B. hut at an 
 altitude of 15,700 feet. One sleeps on the floor if at all. 
 Some persons are here so affected with headache, fever, and 
 nausea, the usual symtoms of soroche, mountain sickness, that 
 they are unable to proceed. But if not too badly off, one with 
 good grit is likely to feel better by day, and in the fresh morn- 
 ing air may pursue the journey. Some persons suffer no in- 
 convenience whatever. One should set out for the summit 
 by daylight, as the ascent requires four hours or more and it 
 is a long way down to the city. From the summit there is a 
 splendid prospect of mountains near and remote, of the beauti- 
 ful city and green valley just below, and of the desert stretch-
 
 AREQUIPA__ ftKik 107 
 
 ing away to the ocean, whicli, alas! however clear the sur- 
 rounding? atmosphere, is likely to be hidden from view by the 
 almost perpetual cloud of mist whicli overhangs the shore. 
 Still more striking is the view of the great crater at one's feet, 
 a gulf half a mile in diameter and 800 feet deep, enclosed by 
 almost vertical walls. In 1903 a lower cross wall separated 
 the old from the new crater and it was possible at one point 
 to the right to descend to the bottom of the former, climb up 
 the cross wall and look down into the new crater, which was 
 smoking slightly; then to continue along this wall to the edge 
 of the crater above the ]\I. B. hut, and to slip and slide down 
 thither. Some changes have occurred in the crater since 
 then and doubtless most persons will be satisfied with reach- 
 ing the summit. Nnwl^crt^ "i^^ in tlu' w orld cnn so grea t 
 an iiHitude be so easily attained: ^ I'l^ t'i is 5000 feet liigher 
 than Pike's Peak and surpasses every mountain in Noi'th 
 A ' liiei ' ica s ;ne I\ll. Mt-Kink y, possil)lyMt_Logan. If the season 
 has heen unusually stormy and tlitTmountain has a consider- 
 able covering of snow, the ascent on muleback might be im- 
 practicable. In 1903 there was but a small patch of snow 
 on one side and not the slightest difficulty. The reason for 
 the lack of snow at this altitude, when it is found on other 
 mountains in Peru much lower down, is the slight precipita- 
 tion which here occurs, varying with the year but always less 
 than on most other mountains. No real eruption from this 
 volcano has occurred since the Spaniards in 1549 founded the 
 city, but El ]\risti is somehow held in a measure responsible 
 for the earthquakes whicli from time to time have devastated 
 the city, and the affectionate admiration with which the 
 mountain is regarded is not unmixed with awe. Hence the 
 two crosses which have been erected on the summit, standing 
 near the little shelters for the Oliservatory instruments. Those 
 of a self-registering character here i)laced were for a year or 
 two read by an observer, not always the same person, who 
 came up every two weeks. The effects of the severe c;nili- 
 (|iiake of 1868 are still visi])le in the city. Slight shocks are 
 common. For this reason dwellings of a single story aiv gen- 
 erally preferred, and few buildings have more than two. 
 
 Not far from Arequipa, as is natural in a volcanic region, 
 are springs of great reputation. One situated about a league
 
 108 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 from the city produces an excellent table water, called the 
 Agua de Jesus or de Misti, highly recommended for general 
 use, good also for several aihnents. It is a pleasant ride 
 with a fine prospect all along the way, and with opportunity 
 at the end for a bath in a clear, effervescent pool, where the 
 water, charged with carl)onic acid gas, rising from the gravel 
 floor, seems to have a higlily exhilarating effect. 
 
 In the opposite direction, 15 miles from Arequipa near the 
 railway leading to Puno, are the Baths of Yura, a watering 
 place of growing fame, with baths of sulphur and of iron. 
 These may be enjoyed free of charge, as the Government has 
 erected suitable buildings over the various springs; though 
 in order to profit by them, unless camping out, one must pay 
 a moderate board at one of the neighboring hotels. The Gran 
 Hotel de las Termas, in a pretty garden, supplies comfortable 
 quarters and food (bathing suits, etc.), at S. 2.50 a day. The 
 waters are said to cure stomach troubles, skin diseases, rheu- 
 matism, etc.
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 THE SOUTTTEKX RAILWAY— CUZCO 
 
 A TKi-WEEKLY train is now selicduled from Arequipa up over 
 the nioimtains, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday ; the Wednes- 
 day only connects with an express to Cuzco. These trains, 
 are provided with l)ult'et chair cars, which make the long 
 journey less wearisome. Persons who have suft'ered slight 
 inconvenience on the trip to Oroya need not fear a repetition 
 of unpleasant symptoms on this journey, the stay of a few 
 days at Arequipa making the change in atmospheric pressure 
 more gradual ; also a second experience is generally less trying, 
 and the top of the southern pass, 14,666 feet, is 1000 feet 
 lower than that on the Central Railroad. 
 
 The scenery between Arequipa and Juliaca presents far less 
 of grandeur than is witnessed on the Oroya road, though for 
 a time it should keep the attention. The white city with the 
 deep green of the Chili Valley, and graceful ]\Iisti with its 
 more rugged sisters on either hand, for a half hour form a 
 delightful picture, as the track winds along down, and later 
 l)cgins to clindj around the other end of Chachani. The dry 
 and channeled slopes of this mountain, the desert of volcanic 
 sand and lava rock for a while may interest, but there is a 
 good deal of sameness to the view, somewhat enlivened by two 
 distant splendid snowclad massifs, Amfato and Coroi)una. 
 
 The Balks of Yura, an hour from Arequipa, are invisibU' 
 from its station : a glimpse of the green canon may be had later. 
 Presently Chacliani and ^listi are seen from the rear, ai)pear- 
 iug considerably lower from the increased elevation, (^n the 
 Pampa de Arrieros, a bleak, grass-covered plateau, the higli- 
 est point of the divide is pa.ssed at Crucero Alto. A little 
 beyond is the station, Lagunillas, near which among the 
 graceful rounded hills are two romantic lakes. Saraooeha, and 
 Cachipascana, one on each side of the track. In spite of 
 
 lOi)
 
 no THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 these and the lines of beauty in the contour of the hills, the 
 plateau is rather dreary: to live happily at any of these 
 stations, one must needs be a true lover of solitude. With 
 good fortune one may descry in the distance a few vicuiias, 
 cousin to the llama, but with much finer wool, often called fur, 
 of a tawny shade, as light in weight as chincliilla ; perhaps a 
 drove of the almost equally rare alpacas ; the former in a wild 
 state, the latter under care and cultivation. 
 
 Juliaca, the junction, is a busy place, always thronged with 
 Indians and a scattering of wiiite people. From here to Puno 
 the train is generally crowded ; but if on the way to Cuzco, you 
 will not mind, as this is the junction where the roads divide. 
 Probably you must descend here to spend the night. Passing 
 through the station on the right of the track, you wuU find a 
 plaza, on the left side of which is a hotel providing clean beds 
 and enough to eat, with no display of elegance. The next 
 morning at 9.15 you may set out for Cuzco, if Thursday ar- 
 riving there at 7.40 p. m. If Tuesday or Saturday it will be 
 necessary to spend a night at Sicuani, the journey by slow 
 train consuming two days. 
 
 At Juliaca are many men and women, venders of a great 
 variety of foods and of merchandise. Many others w^ill be seen 
 at the stations on the road to Cuzco, women wearing odd stiff 
 hats, flat as the proverbial pancake, short skirts, and shawls, 
 men with short trousers and ponchos. Pottery in curious 
 shapes, jars, water bottles, and ornaments may be purchased, 
 match safes, tooth-pick holders, etc. The Indians are indus- 
 trious, generally occupied with spinning, even while walking 
 and carrying on the back heavy burdens. 
 
 Tirapata, where there may be a pause of twenty minutes for 
 breakfast, is a place of considerable importance, headquarters 
 for the Inca j\Iining and Rubber Companies, where their wagon 
 road begins towards the Santo Domingo gold mines, their min- 
 ing property at an altitude of 7000 feet, and their rubber lands 
 beyond. Eight thousand acres of land were presented by the 
 Government to this company for every mile of road opened to 
 traffic ; and one was made across the plateau northeasterly, as 
 far as the mountains. Over the Aricoma Pass, 16,500 feet, and 
 dowai the steep slopes through ravines and gorges on the other 
 side, a trail for mules is still the only pathway. Recently a
 
 CUZCO 111 
 
 concession has been granted to the Peruvian Corporation to 
 build a railroad from Tirapata or from Urcos to navigation on 
 the Madre de Dios, not to really deep water, but to a point ac- 
 cessible to boats of two feet draught, perhaps at Tahuantin- 
 suyo. This is likely to be the third or fourth important route 
 across Peru from the Pacific to navigation on a tributary of 
 the Amazon. 
 
 La Raya, the highest point between Juliaca and Cuzco, with 
 an altitude of 14,150 feet, is on the dividing line of the water- 
 shed between the Amazon system and that of Lake Titicaca. 
 Plere is the knot of Vilcanota where the Coast and the Eastern 
 Cordilleras unite, and where the sacred river, Vilcamayu, 
 takes its orijjjin in a little sacred lake lying at the foot of a 
 snowy peak visible from Cuzco. Now, leaving the bleak pla- 
 teau region, the train descends the Vilcamayu Valley to a 
 milder region. 
 
 Sicuani, 2500 feet below, the most important place along the 
 road, was for some years the terminus of the railway line. 
 It boasts therefore of a good hotel, the Lafayette. Here the 
 niglit was formerly spent, the remainder of the journey to 
 Cuzco being by diligence, certainly an advantage as far as 
 enjoying the scenery is concerned. The Sicuani market place 
 is noted for its extraordinarily picturesque appearance, the 
 Indians coming for miles around to make their purchases, 
 largely by l)arter. Journeying by accommodation train, whicii 
 has some advantages, one spends the night here and arrives the 
 next afternoon in Cuzco. 
 
 The train passes many historic sites and ancient ruins, just 
 out of view the famed Lake Urcos into which, the story goes, 
 was tin-own the wonderful gold chain of the Prince Iluascar. 
 This was said to be long enough to encircle the great plaza of 
 Cuzco, with each link weighing 100 lbs. Projects have been 
 formed to drain this lake in the hope of finding here much 
 ancient treasure, but though small the lake is very deep and 
 no real effort has been made. 
 
 Cuzco 
 At last the railroad leaves the main valley to follow up 
 a tributary on tlie left, llic Ihiataiiay. At the head of tliis 
 side valley, it reaches the ancient city of Cuzco, once the
 
 112 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 metropolis of a vast realm surpassed iu extent or in wealth 
 by few in the world's history, i)robably equaled by none in 
 the number of people living, contented and peaceful, under 
 a single sway. 
 
 From the station half a mile from the center of the city, 
 an attractive boulevard is being laid out, on wliich a tram car 
 runs to the central plaza, or by this time electrics. Carriages 
 too may serve and boys are eager to carry hand baggage. The 
 hotels, alas! leave much to be desired. Slow, indeed, are the 
 people to realize the necessities which must be supplied if the 
 town is to advance, to attract tourists and business men. The 
 residents have not seemed to care whether there was progress 
 or not, but the Central Government is interested, the Prefect 
 who comes from Lima is endeavoring to work a revolution, 
 and the cultivated inhabitants have begun to realize their con- 
 dition and to remedy the evils which have long been a reproach. 
 
 The Hotel Comercio may be endured for a night or two, 
 since it is in a very worthy cause. The other hotel, the Royal, 
 is no better. Another, the Central, is spoken of, opposite the 
 church, La Merced. One does not go to Cuzco for the lux- 
 uries of New York or Paris, but if unhappy without these 
 he must postpone this part of the journey a while longer. 
 However, conditions are improving, and in 1916 news arrived 
 of a really clean, comfortable hotel in Cuzco, the Pullman, said 
 to be better than those in Arequipa. On the spur of a hill which 
 closes the head of the valley, at an altitude of 11,500 feet, is sit- 
 uated the ancient imperial city. Some knowledge of the history 
 of its rulers, the greatness of its domain, the development 
 of its civilization, the magnificence of its temples, the power 
 and riches of its princes, and the terrible tragedy of their 
 downfall gives a keener interest to the massive ruins, the 
 delightful prospect, and to everything in this remote val- 
 ley which is connected with the unique and wonderful empire 
 of world-wide and immortal fame. -AJLtli e time of its captur e, 
 four centuries ago, few if any citi es in the world couIcT 
 rival Cuzco m the magnmce nce of its temples, and their tre as- 
 ur es of gold and silver, and none in the massive fortification s 
 a nd other constructions of which the remains are still a 
 marvel. 
 
 In the histoiy of this aueient city there are at least four periods:
 
 cuzco 11:3 
 
 the prac-Inea age; tlie glorious epoch of the Iiica dynast}-; the 
 merciless, mournful clays of bloodshed and destruction, followed by 
 the brilliant reconstruction and the relentless rule of the Si^anish in- 
 vaders; and the slow progress of the modern republic. From the 
 earliest period date the megalithic ruins of Sacsahuauian and else- 
 where, regarded as belonging- to the same age as those of Tiahuanaco 
 and a few other jjlaces, their origin alike involved in mystery. Sir 
 Clements Markham, the most careful student of this early civiliza- 
 tion, believes it to be an indigenous growth of great antiquity, 
 though there is a tradition of an early outside influence from the 
 south. 
 
 The great empire of the Incas was of comparatively short dura- 
 tion; according to commonly accepted tradition, it existed for about 
 four centuries. The most current and aj^pioved legend of the 
 Incas' origin is that they were the children of the Sun, who pitying 
 the sad condition of his creatures sent to their aid two of his off- 
 spring, Manco Ccapae and Mama Oclla, brother ai... sister, also hus- 
 band and wife. These first appearing on the Island of the Sun in 
 Lake Titicaca thence came to Cuzco and established their dominion. 
 Manco seems to have been a great and wise ruler, probably of 
 Quichua origin, and to have lived in the twelfth century. His suc- 
 cessor Sinchi Rocca was a peaceful ruler, but the third Inca, Lloque 
 Yupanfjui, subjugated some of the neighboring peoples. The fourth, 
 Malta Ccapae, was a greater warrior, extending his kingdom over 
 most of Bolivia, and to Arequipa and Moquegua. The hfth Inca. 
 Ccapae Yupanqui, who was called avaricious, employed his reign in 
 subduing insurrections in regions already conquered. His successor, 
 Inca Rocca, was an eminent warrior and statesman, Avho built great 
 palaces, founded schools for the education of the nobility, and made 
 strict laws for the welfare and protection of the people, with 
 severe punishment, even death, to murderers, incendiaries, and thieves. 
 
 The seventh Inca, Titu Cusi Hualpa, was less successful. An in- 
 vasion by the tribes of Chinchasuyo caused him to lice in alarm, but 
 his son, collecting an army, defeated the invaders and was tlien 
 crowned, with the name of Viracocha. Huring his reign el even 
 provinces were added to the enii)ii-e,_ and a magnihcent temple was' 
 erccfeT hventy miles south of Cuzco with an altar to ViractH'ha. a 
 deity who ha<l apjieared to the jirince to warn him of the coming in- 
 vasion, informing him thai he was the creatcn' of man, the world, 
 the sun, and all else. A remarkable engineering feat of tiiis reign 
 was the construction of an irrigating canal nearly four hundred miles 
 long and twelve feet deep to convert some jdains below into green 
 pasture lands. The eldest son of Viracocha, who was of small ac- 
 count, Avas presently succeeded by his brother Pachacutec who brou;;ht
 
 114 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR. 
 
 still fjreater jjlory to the empire. With the excelk-nt armies organized 
 by Pachacutec, his son Tupac-Yui)anqui made conquests aloiijr the 
 coast from Pisco north iiichulini^' Pachacamac, the reahn of the 
 Grand Chimu near Trujillo, and the valley of Cajamarca. These 
 cities were not destroyed, but were left under the dominion of their 
 former rulers as vassals to the Inca, the worship of the Sun being 
 associated with their former religion ; but the learning and use of 
 the Quichua language was made compulsory. Every government of- 
 ficial and soldier was obliged to speak this language. 
 
 After the death of Pachacutec at the age of eighty, his son Tupac 
 Yupanqui, the tenth Inca, conquered Chile as far as the Maule Kiver 
 and spent three years in a tour to the various parts of his empire. 
 Some uncertainty exists about an Inca Yupanqui, but a younger 
 son of Tupac called Huayna-Ccapac, near the close of his father's 
 reign, carried still farther the conquests even to Quito, which he 
 won from its king. His reign was one of wisdom until its close. 
 The rightful heir Huascar, son of the Coya or Queen, had a rival in 
 his father's affections, a younger son, Atahuallpa, of another. Pacha. 
 Having himself retired to Quito before his death, Huayna Ccapac left 
 that province to his son Atahuallpa, and the throne of Cuzco to 
 Huascar. Thus happened the division, so disastrous to the Inca 
 dynasty, possibly altering in some measure the whole of Peruvian 
 history. 
 
 The location of Cuzco is said to l3e more beautiful than that 
 o? Quito or Bogota, both of world-wide fame. Rome. Athens. 
 ^ nd Spa rta, in the opinion of many, present less charmh ig 
 scen es than that which is outspread before the observer on 
 "Sacsahuaman! Yet how altered from the days of its glory ! 
 
 Then the hills around, fertilized with guano and small fish 
 and irrigated throughout their entire extent, were terraced 
 and cultivated to their summits. XU eii the city and its sub- 
 urbs are said to h ave contained 400.000 souls. The gates of 
 the walled enclosure were of colored marble. Within were 
 great palaces, their walls painted in bright colors. 
 
 The Temple of the Sun was covered with a roof of gold. 
 In the gardens around were artificial flowers of gold and silver, 
 figures of animals large and small, wild and domestic, of herbs, 
 plants, and trees ; a field of maize, fruit trees, images of men, 
 women, and children. The doors were covered with gold plate. 
 A gold cornice more than a yard deep, around the building, 
 did not remain long in place after the occupation by the Span-
 
 CUZCO 115 
 
 iards. The golden roof had been removed previous to their 
 arrival. This sumptuous temple called Coricancha, Phice of 
 Gold, begun by the first Inca, IManco Ceapae, Mas not con- 
 cluded for many generations until the time of Inca Yupanqui, 
 each Inca in the meantime contributing a share towards the 
 coini)letion of the great work. The form of the temple was 
 elliptical, and opposite the entrance where the rays of the 
 rising sun would fall upon it was a gold efifigy representing 
 the Sun. Golden rays projected from his head so that the 
 entire creation occupied one side of tlie temple. When the 
 sun's rays fell upon the figure the effect was indeed dazzling, 
 lighting up the place with such radiance that the Indian 
 nobles, who alone were permitted to enter, prostrated them- 
 selves, striking their foreheads on the pavement. Tlie only 
 women allowed within the temple were the wife and daugliters 
 of the ruling Inca. On each side of the deity were arranged 
 the dead mummified bodies of the Incas, clad in royal robes, 
 seated upon golden thrones, with eyes downcast and hands 
 folded across their breasts. One only, Iluayna Ccapac, 
 faced the god, one story says because he was the best loved, 
 another, because he dared to gaze at the sun and show that this 
 luminary was not the creative lord. 
 
 Beyond this, the chief holy place of the temple, was a rect- 
 angular cloister with five square chapels around. One dedi- 
 cated to the Moon contained a silver image of a woman's face. 
 In this chapel were arranged the bodies of the Queens called 
 Coy as, as were the Incas in the chamber of the Sun. The 
 next hall, its ceiling covered with silver stars, was dedicated 
 to the Stars; the third, adorned with gold, was to Thunder 
 and Lightning. Next came the hall of the Rainbow with 
 colored delineations on gold plate, and finally a hall covered 
 W'ith gold where the priests gave audience. ]\Iauy jewels, 
 emeralds and turquoise, were set in the mouldings of gold. 
 The bodies of the Incas were removed before the coming of 
 the invad(>rs, but in 1559 five were discovered and subse- 
 quently carried to Lima, Avliore they were buried in the patio 
 of the San Andres hosi)ital. Four streets which IimI \o th e 
 temple of the Su n are now called Garcel , TiOrdiL Siintii C'^- 
 Ihia. Hn d-S7rrr::\T urugtin. 
 
 JNear by, where now is the convent of Santa Catalina, waa
 
 116 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the House of the Virgins, who, like the Vestals at Rome, fed 
 the sacred fire. Of these there were 1500 or more, some from 
 Cuzeo of royal lineage, others from the provinces, selected 
 for their beauty from those of high birth. They spun and 
 wove the clothing of the Inea and his Queen and had various 
 other duties. Their dishes and utensils were of gold. They 
 entered the convent before they w^ere eight years of age and 
 here, vowed to chastity, they spent their lives. This build- 
 ing was 200 by 800 feet 
 
 Each Inca built for himself a great palace, and above were 
 ^le wonderful fortifications of Sacsaluiamaii . West ot tlie 
 town is a place called Iluaca-puncu, Holy Gate, which is ap- 
 proached by a steep street. At a certain spot every Indian 
 paused to look back or forward, this being the first or last 
 point from which could be seen the Temple of the Sun. And 
 still to-day, as four centuries ago, the Indians continue this 
 ancient custom. 
 
 The visitor may first stroll about the modern city, which 
 should occupy him for a day or more, and then turn to the 
 ruins above. A short distance east of the Hotel Comereio 
 is a larger j)laza called the Matriz, which with the other two, 
 the Rcgocijo and the San Francisco, in ancient days formed 
 a huge single plaza, the scene of many great festivals, its 
 periphery the measure of Huascar's gold chain, Jir st to at- _ 
 tract observation is the imposing Cath /drnl, rpoavrbMl "^ t]ii>-r1 
 in splendor in thp N p^w Wnrlrl , fnllowi n g those of Mexico and 
 "Mmtf: — BegLm iirToGO, later than that in Lima, it was earlier 
 finished, in 1654. One writer calls it the most perfect ex- 
 ample of colonial architecture existing. It has the usual 
 three doors and naves, with two rows of Corinthian columns 
 carved, in front only, to their base. Built of stone in the 
 Renaissance style, the cost of the cathedral was so great that 
 one of the Viceroys remarked that it would have been less 
 expensive in silver. The choir in the central nave is of superb 
 carving, the high altar in front is covered with silver. Two 
 fine organs provide music. There are many paintings, one 
 attributed to Van Dyck, El Senor de la Agonia. Portraits 
 of the Popes and of all the bishops of Cuzeo are contained 
 in the sacristy. A monstrance ornamented with diamonds, 
 pearls, rubies, etc., is one of the most valuable possessions.
 
 CATHEDRAL, PU\ZA MATRIZ 
 
 AN' ll.M \S.\I.L
 
 CUZCO 117 
 
 On the right of the Cathedral is tlie Cliapel of the Sacred 
 Heart, on the left, the Chapel of Triumph. In front of the 
 Cathedral which, with the Chapel of Triumph, occupies the 
 site of the palace of Viracocha stood a round tower. 
 
 Especial heed should be given to the tone of the Cathedral 
 bell, called one of the richest in the world. It is styled the 
 Maria Angola from the name of a pious lady who presented 
 300 lbs. weight of gold to be used in its casting. The great 
 bell, which is large enough to cover eight men, was made in 
 Cuzco in 1659, so heavy that an inclined plane was built to 
 hoist it to the tower and many men were required for the 
 task. It is said that the bell may be heard for a distance of 
 25 miles, and that its rich tones, due to the large amount of 
 gold in its composition, are especially inclined to awaken a 
 spirit of reverence. 
 
 On the south side of the Plaza will be noticed the Church 
 of the Compafiia, the Jesuits', standing on the site of one 
 of the later Inca palaces, that of Huayna Ccapac, father of 
 Atahuallpa and Huascar. This church, one of the finest in 
 Cuzco, is cruciform in shape with a single broad nave and a 
 large dome at the intersection of the transverse aisles. 
 Pillars both round and square support the fine arches of 
 the church. 
 
 On the corner of Loreto calle, nearer to the Cathedral, was 
 once the palace of the Inca Yupanqui, some distance back of 
 which was that of Inca Tupac Yupanqui. At the farther 
 corner, also of the south side, was the palace of Iluascar 
 beyond the calle de la Carcel which led down to the Temple 
 of the Sun, now built over by the church and convent of 
 Santo Domingo. The church is not so fine as some of the 
 others, but deserves a visit on account of the histoi-ical associa- 
 tions, the altar now occupying the position foi'inci-ly sa<'rcd 
 to the Sun god. The exceptional oval wall btliiiid llic allai" 
 should be noted, indicating tlie elliptical foi'iii of the ancient 
 structure. Tlie cloister lias a finely carved slone archway, 
 and columns ai'ound a patio ol" llie couvenf. wliich was one 
 of the earliest Spanish edifices in Peru. 
 
 The convent of Santa Catalina close by is on the site of 
 the ancient House of the X'iriiins. 
 
 On the north side of the Pla/a were the palace of the Inca
 
 118 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Rocca, next the Cassama or House of Freezing, the mag- 
 nificence of which was supposed to stiffen the beholder with 
 admiration, and then the palace of Inca Pachacutec. The 
 walls of the ancient structures were used for the lower floors 
 of Spanish dwellings and a second story with balconies was 
 added above. Here are now houses and shops with arched 
 arcades in front, much as in the time of Garcilasso de la Vega, 
 a boy at the time of the Conquest. The palace of Pachacutee, 
 the Inca legislator, is the residence, according to Fuentes, of 
 C. Gonzales Martinez, calle del Triunfo No. 78. On this 
 street is the famous great stone with twelve angles. At No. 
 116 on this street, the house of Seilora Juana Arinibar, was, 
 says Fuentes, the palace of Yupanqui. Francisco Pizarro 
 once occupied the mansion now the residence of the Prefect ; 
 his brother Gonzalo, a house in the portal Harinas. 
 
 While the great Plaza of Cuzco in the days of the Incas 
 must have been the scene of many joyous, marvellously bril- 
 liant and sumptuous festivities, in violent contrast after the 
 Conquest it witnessed the most terrible tragedies. Here in 
 1571 the youthful Inca, Tupac Amaru, was beheaded in the 
 presence of a vast crowd of Indians. For a moment the hand 
 of the executioner was stayed by the wail of horror that 
 arose, but the ruthless Viceroy Toledo would grant no mercy. 
 The head of Tupac was set up on a pike. In the middle of 
 the night, a Spaniard looking from his window was amazed 
 to see the entire Plaza filled with kneeling Indians, in silent 
 veneration before the last of their rulers. Next day the head 
 was removed and buried. Two hundred years later, in 1781, 
 a greater atrocity was committed. Another of the same name 
 who had led in revolt his kinsmen, suffering from the inhuman 
 exactions of their rulers, was here compelled to witness the 
 torture and execution of his wife and other relatives. Then 
 after having his tongue cut out, he was torn limb from limb 
 by four horses. It is small wonder that the Quichuas appear 
 of a stolid, melancholy disposition. 
 
 ^The chur ch of La ]Merced should be visited, especially to 
 ob serve the fine cloister with its admirable arches , columns, 
 and staircase, as also because here are the remains of the o ld 
 w arrior Almagro and the brothers, Juan and Gonzalo 
 Pizarro.
 
 CUZCO 119 
 
 Above iho. r-itv, ^1npo« tnwnivl flif^ porth a steep hill between 
 _t \vo gorges, the Iluatanay on the east and the Tuluiiuiyu o n 
 the west, erowned MJth the world renowned i'orti'ess ut' 
 Sacsahuaman. ^A loni;- halt' day at the least is needed tc 
 investigate this and other ruins alwve. _ ]\Ian3% with a whole 
 day to spare, aviU ti nd it delight rul,"setting girt -rartr^-ivrrhrar 
 iTmcheon, to linger aixjve until the shadows begin to f all . 
 
 One, may go on toot o r hnrseha e ir (it T un y hr n nml r ) n rcn rd 
 i ng~tolns taste and abilit y. An extremely athletic gentleman 
 says the clind) is best done on a mule. Certainly it is better 
 for one not fond of walking, but to a good pedestrian the 
 ■walk is no hardship. Turning to the right on the ealle 
 Triunfo one will pass a great wall containing the famous 
 stone "with twelve angles into which other stones are beau- 
 tifully fitted. This method of construction is characteristic. 
 They did not trouble to make rectangular blocks of a fixed 
 size, but utilized stones both large and small of various 
 shapes, and fitted them perfectly to each other. In some cases 
 the joining is so fine that the thinnest knife cannot be inserted. 
 Nor was mortar used in the construction. How their won- 
 derful Avork was accomplished without tools of steel or other 
 metal remains a mystery. There is a legend that they knew 
 of a plant the juices of which in some magical manner softened 
 the stone so that it could easily be rubbed into the required 
 shape. This great wall perhaps enclosed the palace of ]Manco 
 Ccapac, the first Inca, of which some remains are above. 
 Still higher, on a terrace back of this palace, was the Garden 
 of the Sun which was yearly the first to be cultivated. ]\Iark- 
 ham calls this the most lovely and the saddest spot in Peru. 
 Beyond the calle Triunfo, to one climbing the hill along the 
 edge of the gorge, scenes of beauty are continually revealed 
 as one pauses to rest and look about him. The great fortress 
 on the hilltop was so difficult of access that in the greater part 
 of its circumference a single wall sufficed; but to the northeast 
 or rear, as regarded from the city, the approach was gradual. 
 On that side for a distance of XW yards, were constructed 
 three great i)arallel walls which had 21 advancing and re- 
 entrant angles, so that every point could be enfiladed. These 
 walls, which may be called Cyclopean, are said to contain 
 stones surpassing in size any found in ancient Mykenae or
 
 ^<^' 120 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR . / 
 
 {^\_jje^ cT^ />oa,^uvX2- 6~>~JL^j-t^^ ju^s^JlM^^ c<t^ J^ A^AyiiJiJ. -^^ (^ff- 
 
 otlier Greek strongholds. One of the largest stones weighs 
 about ;}6 tons. Tiiey are of limestone brought from quarries 
 three quarters of a mile away, though other writers state that 
 they came from a distance of 5 and 15 leagues. One 30 feet 
 long is said by one writer to weigh 160 -tons. The most per - 
 fectly planned fortress ever ])uilt is the extraordina r y tyibntp.^ 
 which this work has receivcii . Against what people such a 
 stronghold was required is a mystery, " pip loivefst ^'^ ^bp 
 
 three walls was 27 feet liiirh^ the second was 18, and the , 
 
 uppermost 14; on the inside^ the parapet was breast lii gli._ 
 Between each two walls there was a spncc o f 25 to 30 feet. 
 In each wall near the center was a gate which could be raised. 
 There is a story of a tired stone which was left on the road 
 and w^ept blood at being unable to reach the fortress. It is 
 related that this stone, being dragged by 20,000 Indians, half 
 in front with stout cables and half behind, slipped back down 
 the hill killing several thousand, and thus it wept blood. 
 
 At the top of the hill in a triangular space within the en- 
 closure were three strong towers. The central tower, circular 
 in shape, contained a fountain with v/ater brought from some 
 distance. The walls of the tower were decorated with birds 
 and animals of gold and silver. Here kings were lodged who 
 came to pay a visit. From the parapet the Inca prince, 
 Cahuide, overcome in a final struggle, plunged to his death. 
 The other two towers which were square provided lodgings 
 for soldiers. They had equal space underground with sub- 
 terranean passages forming a labyrinth for which a skein of 
 wool was needed as a guide. There were no arches, but cor- 
 bels with long stones laid across. One of these towers was 
 the last to be defended by the Inca subjects against the 
 Spanish. The invaders soon dismantled the colossal Sac- 
 sahuaman fortress for material to construct their dwellings, 
 perhaps also to impair its strength as a refuge in . case of 
 insurrection. Impressive are these great walls, and the ruins 
 beyond in a vast solitude where no habitation is in sight, per- 
 haps no human being. A little plain lies between Sacsahua- 
 man and a hill called Rodadero, once partly walled. Here 
 are curious masses of rock which look as if children or older 
 persons had slidden over them for ages. Some believe that 
 the white rock solidified in this form, others that the ridges
 
 CUZCO 121 
 
 were artificially cut, and still others that they have been worn 
 as above indicated. Certain it is that youths on feast days or 
 as they have opportunity still take pleasure in the pastime of 
 sliding. A little farther on, carved in the solid rock, is a seat 
 called the Inca's throne, where he may have sat to watch his 
 people at their sports and dances, or to review his troops, or 
 alone in state to contemplate his dominions and the setting 
 sun. Very near is a stone in which there is a channel ten 
 inches wide and over which is a little bridge, thought to be 
 a place of libation. It is said that cliicha is thus offered here 
 to-day. Two caves may be seen close by, a small one of 
 labyrinthine character, with entrance three feet high. 
 
 Somewhat east of the Rodadero is another rock formation 
 with large double perfectly level stairs with a small landing 
 at the top. By some this is regarded as the true Inca seat. 
 All about, carved in the living rock are niches, benches, and 
 seats of every kind and shape. 
 
 ^Fro m Cuzco a delightful excursion mav be made to visit 
 o ther ruins in the Urubamba Yallev, delightful that is to those 
 
 who d o not 0])jeCt to riding on : \ it^iil.^ r,Vi>v rlitYinnlt if iKit. 
 
 dangerous trails, or slee;)ing on floor or table, with a rathe r 
 podf^food supply. Temporary discomfort will, however, be 
 most iiiglily rewarded to tlie lover of romantic scenery as well 
 as to the tourist of archa-ological tastes. One may go up over 
 the hills back of Cuzco direct to Yucay or to Urubamba, and 
 the next day arrive at Ollantaytambo. 
 
 These ruins of Ollantaytamljo in the valley of the Uru- 
 bamba River, at the entrance of a side ravine, have long been 
 known as those of a great fortress or fortified palace arranged 
 on several terraces; the first plateau 300 feet fi-om the floor 
 of the valley. Here are immense stone slabs, polygonal walls 
 with recesses for household gods, a circle or pillar caHed a 
 Intihuatana for observing the equinox, and other remains in a 
 valley of wonderful beauty. The story of the Tired Stone 
 is also connected with this place. Fjirther down, aliout 00 — 
 mile s northwest of Cuzco, are tlie still more wondeiMul remains 
 of ]\racchu-Pichu, recently bi-ouglit to the know jrduM' of the ^ <oA7 
 worh l bv Professor Hiram IJin-jliam and descnix-d m the / / / 
 
 A])l-il, 1!)l:). inili|])e r of the Xiiljomil (ieogl'.-ipliie M:|»/;i/int'. j \/' 
 
 TIlis is thought to li;i\u heen a city ol' refuge of cai'lier date 
 
 J-XX^J-^O
 
 122 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 than Ciizco, a large walled settlement 2000 feet above the bot- 
 tom of the valley and 7000 feet above the sea. The _Spaniards 
 appear never to have reaehed this pointy hence the ruins are 
 in a remarka])le state of preservatio n TTr-yn ni-<> torrtifcs, numy 
 houses, fountains, towers, 100 staircases, and beautiful walls 
 r rectanaular stones. The valley itself with its steep rug '.'-ed 
 wa11s^ts_Jn2il»'i«Tit v(> tretation, and its views of snow elad 
 moun tains is one of ineom par^hlp Invplinpss 
 ""T^earer to Cuzco are ruins previously known and easily 
 accessible, at Yucay palaces and baths, and still higher up 
 the valley the fortress, palace, and rock tombs of Pisac; all 
 of these in the same valley, that of the River Vilcamayu or 
 Vilcanota, as it is called in the upper part, below becoming the 
 Urubamba, then, on uniting with the Apurimac, the Ucayali, 
 which with the Maranon forms the Amazon. 
 
 Other ruins, Choqquequirau on the Apurimac River, iNusta 
 Espana and Vitcos on the Vilcabamba River, are more difficult 
 of access, though by no means impossible; but to investigate 
 all would require weeks. Before undertaking such journeys, 
 one should read the accounts of other travelers and come suit- 
 ably prepared; they are not for the ordinary tourist. When 
 the railroad has been extended from Huaneayo to Cuzco, a 
 very expensive work, the completion of which may be delayed 
 for some years, this wonderfully romantic region will attract 
 many visitors.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 BOLIVIA— (IZCO T(^ LA PAZ " 
 
 From Cuzco tlie tourist will return to Juliaca, the junction 
 on the main line, where he should arrive in time to take the 
 Irain at5::)0 p. m. for Pioio on Lake Tilicaea, a ride of an 
 hour and a quarter. The time table should be carefully 
 studied in Arequipa and the journey planned to avoid a 
 slop-over at Puno. Should tliis occur, notwithstanding, one 
 may look al)out the town, which, founded in the seventeenth 
 century, is an important center of trade in alpaca and vicuna 
 skins and wool. One may therefore inquire for rugs, as these 
 either of wJiite alpaca or vicuna are valuable souvenirs, also 
 ])urchasabl(! in La Paz. Tlie shorter vicuna fur from the 
 necks and legs is considered more desirable; though the longer 
 is preferred by some. Tlu' i-ugs vary in price according to 
 buyer and seller, as well as the quality of the fur, from pos- 
 sibly 40 soles up. the prices continually increasing. In La 
 Paz they are sold at from 60 to 150 bollvians. Aii)aca rugs 
 are more rare and cost about the same as the better vicunas. 
 They are quite double the weight. Llamas, sometimes called 
 the camels of the Andes, are prized chiefly as burden bearers, 
 though their long coarse wool is serviceable. Tlie vicuna and 
 ;il|)aca ai'e never used as pack anitiuds, being smaller and of 
 lighter l)uil(l. The fine quality of the vicuna wool and its 
 scarcity makes it expensive and desirable. A poncho or any 
 olhei" article of this wool is something to be valued. The 
 Indians alone maiuige all of these animals successfully; 
 though tile vicuna is hardly domesticated. A profitable indus- 
 try in which to engage would be the culture if possible of these 
 animals for the wool. Tlie llamas are of various col(>rs, black, 
 brown, white, and mixed; the alpacas are oftener black or 
 white, the vicunas a tawny or fawn shade, fading almost to 
 white on the belly. None of these animals have horns, and 
 
 12:5
 
 ]24 THE 80UTII AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 spitting is their only weapon of defense. They range mostly 
 from 12,000 to 15,000 feet in Peru and Bolivia. 
 
 Puno is quite a town with a large plaza, several churches, 
 many nice homes, a college, a hosi)ital, and, in the vicinity, 
 many ancient monuments; one famous round tower, called a 
 cliulpa, at Sallustani, of unknown origin, is by some believed 
 to be a burial structure, Puno on the frontier of Peru is a 
 meeting place between the two tribes, the Quichuas and 
 Aymaras, the latter, residents of northern Bolivia, while the 
 Quichuas occupy the plateau region of the greater part of 
 Peru and of the central and southern portions of Bolivia. 
 
 Lake Titicaca, halfway between Panama and Cape Horn, 
 is on a great plateau more than two miles vertically above the 
 level of the sea. About 135 miles long and 66 wide it has, 
 with a very irregular outline, an area of more than 5000 
 square miles. Although at so great an altitude the waters 
 never freeze, being slightly warmer than the atmosphere, the 
 temperature of which in winter is often as low as 30^ Fah. 
 Snowstorms are no rarity. The glacier-covered mountains 
 on the southeast have some effect upon the climate. A number 
 of small streams flow into the lake which has a single outlet 
 at the southwest corner, the Desaguadero River, 180 miles 
 long, emptying into Lake Poopo. For a distance of 30 miles 
 from Lake Titicaca the river is navigable for boats of 500 
 tons. So high that one ]\It. Washington piled upon another 
 would not rise above the surface of the water, and the loftiest 
 mountain in the United States proper would appear but as 
 one of the grassy hills around, this sheet of water, 12.500 feet 
 above the sea, nearly as large as Lake Erie, is the most elevated 
 in the world where steamboats regularly ply. 
 
 In the winter months, June, July, and August, it is quite 
 dark before Puno is reached, but in the gloomy dusk one will 
 have on the left glimpses of the Lake. At the Puno Station 
 an animated throng will be waiting for the many who descend 
 from the train ; but the majority of first-class passengers, if it 
 is the right day, W'ill remain in the car for the half-mile ride 
 to the docks, where they embark on a 1000-ton steamer for 
 the sail to Guaqui in Bolivia. Formerly the steamer lay at the 
 wharf until morning, the passengers sleeping on board. Then 
 a delightful all day's sail was enjoyed with continually
 
 CUZCO TO LA PAZ 125 
 
 charming views of deep bays, irregular hilly shores, rugged 
 picturosf|ue promontories and islands, and after a few hours 
 the splendid Cordillera Real at the east. Towards sunset, 
 the line of snowclad giants, stretching from imposing Illampu 
 to Illiinani, presented a spectacle of extraordinary mag- 
 nitieence. 
 
 To those who delight in ancient myths and archtTological 
 research, perchance to all who know the legend of ]\Ianeo- 
 Ccapac and Mama Oclla, children of the Sun, it would be a 
 privilege to call at the sacred islet Inii-Karha or Titicaca, now 
 commonly referred to as the Island of the Sun, whence these 
 two set forth on their wonderful mission and career. It was 
 reserved for the fourth Inca, ]\Iaita-Ccapac, to return with an 
 army to this region, then entitled Collasuyo, and to reduce the 
 people to submission; and for his successor, Ccapac Yupancjui, 
 to complete the conquest. The Incas were greatly impressed 
 with the more ancient monuments at Tiahuanaco, evidences of 
 a superior civilization ; and on the island from which his 
 ancestors were supposed to have issued on their ])eneficent, 
 civilizing mission, Tupac Yupanqui erected a splendid palace 
 and a temple to the Sun, the richest in his entire empire. A 
 temple also was built to Thunder and Lightning, a monastery 
 for the sons of nobles, a sanctuary for vestal virgins, and 
 dwellings for his courtiers. The island is said to have been 
 paved with gold and silver. A smaller island near by is 
 called Coati from Coya, the Moon, wife of the Sun, where 
 teini)les to the ^Nloon were erected. On both islands many 
 remains still exist, but to visit them is difficult, as the regular 
 steamers sail direct from Puno to Guaqui, at the south end of 
 the lake. These l)oats which were built in Scotland, brougiit 
 up in i)ieces and here put to<rether, have comfortable state- 
 rooms with electric liglits and afford good enough meals. The 
 curious native boats, the balsas, one must try to get a glimpse 
 of near the dock at Puno, or in the early morning. These 
 are made of reeds, which iri-ow in the water near the lake 
 shore and are bound together in rolls. The broad sails also 
 are of reeds. After a while they become water-soaked, lasting 
 only about six months. The Imats are propelled from shore 
 with a long pole. Before the coming of the steamships these 
 boats transported much freight among the various lake ports,
 
 126 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 but are now little used except by the Indians who are adept 
 in their inanjigcinent and seldom wrecked, though often severe 
 storms suddenly arise. August is the month of best weather, 
 though the coldest. Warm clothing and wraps are indispens- 
 able. Thunderstorms may occur at any time, especially in 
 summer when waterspouts are not infrequent; but in ray 
 seven crossings the weather has always been good and every- 
 thing comfortable; berth and meals are provided without 
 extra cost. 
 
 Copacabana. In 1903 the steamer called at the town of 
 Copacabana, on the west shore of the lake, where there is a 
 far-famed shrine to the Virgin, once the richest and most 
 renowned in all South America. The story goes that the image 
 of the Virgin is the work of a converted Indian, who, ignorant 
 and unskilled, from pious zeal devoted many years to the 
 task. Aside from the face and hands, the entire image is 
 covered with gilt upon which are colored designs so applied 
 as to give the effect of an elaborate robe. The gold crown and 
 the many priceless jewels with which the image is decorated 
 possess a value indeed amazing to find in a town largely Indian 
 in this remote corner of the globe. Candles are ever burning 
 before the sacred shrine. Besides the church, a cupola on 
 columns of IMoorish style is notable. At the time of the great 
 festival to the Virgin in July, this usually quiet town is 
 thronged with Indians who come from all directions, a distance 
 of 100 leagues. ]\Iingled with Catholic ritual and ceremonies 
 are primitive Indian rites and beliefs, and the religious exer- 
 cises are followed by grotesque dances and songs, drunkenness 
 and bestial excesses, as happens generally on the great feast 
 days elsewhere among Quichuas and Aymaras. In an earlier 
 period there was here a city with accommodations for the pil- 
 grims who annually came to visit the Temple of the Sun on 
 Inti-Karka and to pay homage to the Inca. Pilgrims still 
 come from Mexico and Europe to be healed. The tourist has 
 now no opportunity to" visit the place except by chance, or 
 with an outlay of considerable time, trouble, and expense, by 
 chartering a special balsa or by making use of the small coast- 
 ing steamer. 
 
 One should rise early the morning after leaving Puno, in 
 order to enjoy the imposing sight of the great mountain range
 
 CUZCO TO LA PAZ 127 
 
 from Illampu to llliniani, a distance of 100 miles. No more 
 splendid vision, some maintain, may be witnessed on the whole 
 round earth. As one l)eholds the glistening glaciers which, 
 pierced by bristling ramparts of rock, in immense masses 
 clothe the vast and towering peaks, with the brown i)lain and 
 the blue waters of the lake as a contrasting foreground, it is 
 difficult to realize that one is two miles above the sea and still 
 within the Torrid Zone. After passing through a very narrow 
 strait, the ship sails west into a considerable bay, at last along 
 a narrow, artificial channel to the port of Guaqui near the 
 southwest corner of the lake. It is a bustling place with 
 plenty of Indian men and boys to assist in transporting hand 
 baggage to the train 30 or 40 rods distant. A trifle bleak, 
 maybe, in winter, exercise and sunshine promptly dispel dis- 
 comfort. There is not nuich of Guaqui save the dwellings 
 connected with the port and railway terminal. It has been 
 growing with the increase in traffic ever since the opening of 
 the railway in 1903 ; but its progress may now be retarded by 
 the new railway from the Pacific recently opened between 
 Arica and La Paz. Life on this desolate plain which might 
 seem a dreary lot to many is yet enjoyed by civilized English- 
 men and their families, who find the climate agreeable and are 
 content in the possession of all essential comforts. 
 
 The cars for the journey to La Paz, 60 miles distant, are of 
 ordinary American style. A seat on the left will alford the 
 finer prospects, though at the start the hills on the right are 
 liiglicr. These are often covered with a thin coating of snow 
 wliich at times spreads over the plain. Near the lake the 
 land is well covered with bi-own bunch gi-ass, good food for 
 cattle, many of which with long rough hair may be seen from 
 the car window. Trains of donkeys, mules, and llamas are 
 often in evidence, and many Indian men and women, not very 
 prepossessing in appearance, the Aymaras, who are of more 
 cliui'lish manner than the Quichuas of Peru. Along the line 
 are Jmlian villages and solitary dwellings of sun-dried bricks, 
 the latter surrounded by thick walls of the same material, 
 though walls of stone are used to separate the cultivated fields. 
 Pil'leen miles from (luaiiui is TioliiiaiKico, the seat of a won- 
 derful prehistoric civilization. Beyond the railway station 
 may be seen at the left great stones of a sacred enclosure, a
 
 1^8 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 mound showinji^ evidences of excavations, perhaps a colossal 
 statue. No time is given to examine these marvellous ruins, 
 for which purpose one must make an especial excursion from 
 La Paz. 
 
 After an hour or so the Cordillera comes again into view, 
 when the great Ulampu will excite profound admiration, until 
 the Alto Station is approached. Two hours from Guaqui the 
 train reaches the station Viaclia, a junction from which a 
 road leads south to Oruro, and the newer road west over the 
 mountains, to the sea at Arica. Often there is here a long 
 wait, which begins with much bustle and animation, women 
 offering for sale fruits, rolls, and a variety of curious concoc- 
 tions. The village is at some distance on the right ; a church 
 is conspicuous on a hilltop. A half hour beyond at the Alto 
 Station another pause is made. The train is divided into sec- 
 tions and with a special engine attached the car proceeds in 
 reverse direction. For a mopient it continues on the prac- 
 tically level plain, but — Presto ! You begin to descend and 
 suddenly perceive that you have passed the brink of the 
 enormous canon, of which already you may have had a 
 glimpse, and you gaze in astonishment at the steep enclosing 
 walls and far below in the distance on the red roofs of the 
 city of La Paz more than 1000 feet beneath. A remarkable, 
 astonishing, and delightful ride is before you. One wishes 
 to look all ways at once, to admire the long curves of the 
 winding track, the strangely carved walls of the caiion, the 
 troops of llamas or burros with their Indian drivers, the steep 
 pathways up which they toil, the patches of bright green in 
 the midst of the brown slopes, and the gradually approaching 
 city. The descent is on the sloping head wall of the curiously 
 carved oval basin, the sides of Mhieh appear in places per- 
 pendicular and converge at the farther end in such a way as 
 to leave no opening visible, though an outlet is really there. 
 The upper edge of this great basin is called the alto or height 
 by the people dwelling below. Thus concealed in. .the— very- 
 heart of the Andes is the unique city of La Paz, with its 
 ' gO!,000 inhabitants, over 12.000 feet above the sea, the highest 
 capital on the gl nh^^ ^ pm-inns, fascinating place, surrounded 
 b y these strange walls: whilp briTl i^int sn ow r-rnwnoil l l TTirmu L- 
 tQ\\:£ring in majesty 9000 feet above, adds a charm comparajjle
 
 BALSAS, LAKE TITICACA 
 
 LA I'AZ, IIIUM TUi; ^lLL^i
 
 CUZCU TO LA J'AZ 129 
 
 to that wliich the Jungfrau gives to Interlaken. But La I'az 
 itself is as high as the shoulders of that glacier-robed Alpine 
 summit; an altitude which in other regions signifies perpetual 
 snow here bringing only a temperate clime, whe're tlowers 
 blossom in the open throughout the year, and the rare inch or 
 two of winter's snow (piickly vanishes in the morning's 
 sunlight. 
 
 The railway down to the city, by many pronounced impos- 
 sible of accom{)lisliment, was opened in October, IDO."), through 
 the initiative and agency of Mr. T. Clive Sheppard, then Sup- 
 erintendent of J'ublic AVorks. The road, S'/o miles long, has 
 an average grade of six per cent with curves on a radius of 
 100 meters. The power is electricity obtained from mond 
 gas, an explosive mi.xture compounded of coal gas, steam, and 
 air, cheaper than either gas or steam; a consideration of im- 
 portance where coal from Australia in 1908 was selling at 
 retail for $50 a ton. 
 
 At the station are porters who for modest fees will transport 
 to your hotel your baggage, both large and small. Big trunks 
 they carry on their backs with apparent ease. Carriages may 
 be at hand, costing one hoUvian, 40 cents; or on the other side 
 of the station an electric car, fare 20 ccntavos, first class, will 
 soon be passing. This will bring you to the old Hotel Guibert, 
 half a mile distant, and to the Plaza, on the upper side of 
 which is the Paris Hotel, new and modern, now generally pre- 
 ferred by Americans. 20 centavos is an ami)le fee for the 
 boy who takes a bag to the car or even to the hotel, and 50 
 centavos to the man who brings the trunk. 
 
 Of tlie early liislory of Bolivia, liltlc is known. At the time of 
 tlie Si)anisli invasion the country was under tlio sway of tlie Incas. 
 Those being overthrown, no resistance was here oU'ered to the atl- 
 vancc (if I)ie.L;() de Alniagro, who ehose this route for his southward 
 niaicli for the concjui'st of Chile. After this uiduippy advi-nture 
 Gonzalo Pi/ano invadi'd the eoinitry: the city of ("luu|uisaea was 
 foundeil (at times called Chaicas, ami La Plata), now known as 
 Sucic. Quanels ainonii' the invaders culminated in a victory near 
 Cuzco by (he \'iceroy Pedro de la Gasea over (Jonzalo Pi/.arro, who 
 was put to death. As a memorial of the jieace thus secured. La 
 Gasca ordered Captain Ahmso de ]\lendn/a to found a city in the 
 valley of Chuquiajui, where an Indian village already e.xisled, and
 
 i;50 THE SOUTH AMP]RICAN TOUR 
 
 October 25, 1545, the first aiiiiivcMsary of tlie battlf, the foundations 
 were laid of a city named Nuestra Sefiora de La Paz. The city of 
 Potosi liad been founded a few months earlier, after the discovery 
 of the wondcilul silver mines which soon made the city and cerro 
 famous throujihout the world. 
 
 The country now known as Bolivia, formerly Alto Peru, was a 
 part of the province of New Toledo f^ranted to Almagro, who was 
 beheaded after his party was defeated in a conflict with Pizarro's 
 forces near Cuzco, subsequent to his return from his unfortunate 
 expedition to Chile. In 1542 the Viceroyalty of Peru was created 
 with authority over all the Spanish American possessions. Under 
 the Viceroy were later two Aiidiencias Rcales, Royal Audiences, of 
 Lima and of Chareas, the latter covering the foi-mer New Toledo 
 and having- jurisdiction over the provinces of Tucuman, Paraguay, 
 and Buenos Aires. The Audiencias were supreme courts possessing 
 also executive functions, and were responsible to the Crown. The 
 Audiencia of Chareas, created in 1559, had its chief seat at Chu- 
 quisaca, the site also of the bishopric of Chareas, and of the L'ni- 
 versity of San Francisco Xavier, renowned in Spanish America for 
 its learning, and ranking with Salamanca in Spain. La Paz became 
 a Cathedral city in 1605, and Chuquisaca in 1G09 was made the seat 
 of the archbishopric of La Plata. Other cities were founded ; ex- 
 plorations were made east and north of the Andes Mountains; the 
 work of christianizing the Indians was prosecuted by the Jesuit, 
 Franciscan, and other padres. At the same time great abuses were 
 practiced upon the natives, who both in Peru and Bolivia were com- 
 pelled to work in the mines, and suffered such hardships and cruel- 
 ties as rapidly to diminish their numbers. In the seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries there were many struggles and conflicts, chiefly 
 between the native born Americans of Spanish ancestry and the 
 rulers who were for the most part Spanish born ; several insun-ections 
 occurring with intent to throw off the Spanish yoke. In 1776 the 
 Viceroyalty of Buenos Aires was established, to which the Audiencia 
 of Bolivia was transferred. In 1780 oecui'red an Indian rising in- 
 stigated and directed by three brothers named Catari, for whose heads 
 2000 pesos each were offered by the Audiencia. Thus thej' were be- 
 trayed. The Indian revolt in Cuzco led by Tupac Amaru occurring 
 about this time incited the Bolivian Indians to further efforts. The 
 Indian Ayoayo with 80,000 men for three months besieged the city 
 of La Paz until dispersed by an army from Chuquisaca. The town 
 of Sorata was destroyed, but in the end, after 50,000 lives had been 
 lost among the Spanish Americans and many more of the Indians, 
 they were finally crushed. 
 
 Injustice and oppression bad been the lot, not of the Indians only,
 
 CUZCO TO LA PAZ 131 
 
 but of the native born Spanish Americans, in spite of the fact that 
 especially from Peru and Bolivia fabulous wealth had flowed into 
 the treasuiT of Spain. The Kevolulion in Noi-th America was a 
 warninji', but the concessions granted were too late. July 16, IHiY.), 
 conspirators at La Paz deposed and imprisoned the Governor and 
 proclaimed tlie independence of the country, organizing a Junta of 
 which one of the leaders in the movement, Pedro Domingo Murillo, 
 was elected President. This insurrection deserves especial notice as 
 the first effort in South America towards democratic goverinnent. 
 A trained army sent by the Viceroy of Peru overcame the feeble 
 opposition of a few patriots, and Murillo, January 20, ISIO, per- 
 ished on the scaffold; yet full of confidence he exclaimed in the 
 words of another, "The torch which I have lighted shall never be 
 extinguished." Within a few months the Viceroy at Buenos Aires 
 was deposed and an army from Argentina under General Bclgrano 
 met and defeated the royalists on the field of Suipacha. From 
 this time on, there were various conflicts in which the royalists 
 were usually successful; but the patriots, in spite of serious de- 
 feats, for years continued a persistent guerilla warfare in which 
 a large number of their leaders perished. The arrival of General 
 San Martin with his victorious army at Pisco in Peru, and som 
 after the proclamation of independence at Lima, July 2S, 1S21, 
 gave new hope to the Bolivians. The battle of Ayacucho rK'ccmber 
 9, 1824, having ended Spanish dominion in South America, January 
 29, 1825, just fifteen years after the first patriots suffered martyr- 
 dom in the plaza, the last Spanish authorities evacuated La Paz, 
 which was occupied by the Inde]iendent Army of Alto Peru under 
 General Lanza the same day. The victorious army under General 
 Sucre, marching from Cuzco, made a triumphal entiT. Fe])ruary 7, 
 1825, in the midst of wild rejoicing. "With General Sucre acting as 
 the ]nime organizer of the Kepublic, the first National Assembly 
 met in June at Chuquisaca. The Act of I nde]iendencc bears the 
 date of ^August 6, 1825; the itep ublTc wiTs named for Bi^livar. who 
 w"as~eTected its first Presj dent ^. \Y.lliJ£. Xhuquisaca was made the c a j ) i - 
 laT under tlje riA.me of .Snore. Nuestra Senora de La Paz ix-came 
 LaTaz de Ayacuclio. General Bolivar, on his arrival in L;i Paz 
 August IS, was greeted with unbonndi'd enthusiasm. Jn Nt»vcmber 
 at Sucre he was inaugurated President, but resigiunl in Jainiary, 
 1820, to return to Lima. The troublous times which followed, con- 
 tinuing many years, must be jiassed over, up to the Giiilian war. 
 A quarrel arising over the collection of an exjwrt tax on nitrate, 
 Chile sent troops to occupy Antofagasla, then Bolivian territory. 
 Peru having previously made a secret treaty with Bolivia joined 
 her in the declaration of war. April 5, 1870. As the allies were al-
 
 1:52 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 lo^ellier unprepared, Chile was completely victorious and Bolivia 
 lost what little coast she had previously possessed. During the 
 last thirty years, however, internal dissensions have for the most 
 part ceased, and with more stable government there has been suc- 
 cessful development of the rich resources of the country. In 1898 
 trouble arose over the question of the seat of government, sessions 
 of Congress having been held in several cities. Congress passed a 
 law that Sucre should be the permanent residence of the President 
 and Cabinet. The people of La Paz protesting, a Federation was 
 formed and, after several engagements. General Pando, com- 
 mander of the revolutionary forces, gained a complete victory, with 
 the result that La Paz was made the real seat of government al- 
 though Sucre retains the name of capital. General Pando was 
 elected President. During his administration occurred the Acre 
 boundary difficulty settled by the cession of considerable rubber ter- 
 ritory to Brazil, in return for which Brazil paid Bolivia £2,000,000 
 to be used in building railways; while Brazil further agreed to con- 
 struct the so-called Madera-Mamore railway around the rapids in 
 those rivers, thus giving to Bolivia an outlet by the Amazon and 
 Para for her own rubber districts and for a large section of her 
 territory. Under President Montes (1904-1908) a treaty was made 
 with Chile according to which, in addition to bestowing a subsidy 
 and other considerations, Chile agreed to build a railway from 
 Arica to the Altos of La Paz, recently opened to traffic, and af- 
 fording a shorter route to the Pacific than those by Mollendo or 
 Antofagasta. During the administration of President Eliodoro Vi- 
 llazon progress has continued in other directions and especially in 
 the development of railways. The road from Rio Mulato to Potosi 
 has been opened and that from Oruro to Cochabamba will probably 
 be in operation before the close of 1917; thus these two important 
 cities are brought into better communication with the outside world. 
 The Madei'a-Mamore Railway is already in service. President Vi- 
 llazon is now succeeded by former President Montes.
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 THE CITY OF LA PAZ 
 
 The Grand Ilotcl Guihcrt is well situated at a corner of the 
 principal Plaza. Though not on the square, several windows 
 overlook it and from many the music of the baud concerts 
 may be heard on Sunday and Thursday evenings. The hotel 
 entrance is on the calle Coniercio, one of the principal streets 
 of the city, running longitudinally in the valley. The side 
 windows, on a street running down the steep hill, look across 
 upon the side walls of the Cathedral which fronts upon the 
 Plaza. The hotel, with two stories in front and three in the 
 rear, is an ancient structure several centuries old, with hand- 
 some carvings on the inner walls. These once surrounded a 
 large patio, originally open to the sky and with a sloping 
 pavement, which miglit be entered from the side street. In 
 1903, the patio was occasionally occupied by a drove of llamas, 
 or by men discharging freight, or with other matters; but 
 now, roofed and floored, it has been converted into a large 
 dining-room. The cookery is a com])ination of French, Span- 
 ish, and Indian styles. The hotel has a rather narrow entrance 
 and stairway, and no salon or parlor in which guests may be 
 received. The chambers, provided with electric bells and 
 lights, and once quite luxurious with expensive French fur- 
 nitui'c, lliick carpets, etc., are now in a sad state of dihii)ida- 
 tion. 
 
 Since the deatli of INFonsieur (liiilx-fl in 1!M:^ the hotel lias 
 sadly degenerated. It is, however, possil)h' that an early 
 change in the management may restore it to its former reputa- 
 lioii. The Viiris Ilotcl on the upper side of the Plaza in a 
 iii'wrr l)uildiiig with inodeiMi iiniirovements, bath rooms, new 
 I'liinilure, and a bcttfi- tabh* is now the more attractive spot 
 for tourists. P>olli hotels ai'e liable to be full to overflowing, 
 so that to secure a good i-oom or even to be sure of any, it 
 is wise to t('!cgfai)ii from Ai-ciiuipa oi' ("u/.co. Pi-iees vary 
 
 133
 
 134 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 from 7 to 15 hoi. a day for room and board, 8 or 10 being 
 the average fee exeept for tlie lai'gest rooms. Morning coffee 
 is served in one's room, almuerzo is from 11 to 2, the crowd 
 coming between 12.30 and 1. Away down on the Prado is 
 a hotel called the Casa Blanca, wliich has nice large rooms, 
 even a suite with bath, and is pleasantly located in the quarter 
 of the foreign legations. The table, however, in 1916 was not 
 conunended. 
 
 Another hotel nearer the station, kept by a German, is said 
 to be very neat, and good for the money, the price being 
 lower. It was rumored in 1911 that the millionaire mine 
 owner, Sefior Patifio, had purchased a corner on calle 
 Comercio on which to erect a large up-to-date establishment. 
 This would indeed have been welcome in view of the rapidly 
 increasing travel, but apparently the rumor was without 
 foundation. On the street floor of the Guibert is a large 
 cafe, a good part of the day and evening filled to overflowing 
 with gentlemen, both natives and foreigners, at small tables, 
 regaling themselves with a cocktail or some other beverage, 
 discussing business or politics, or shaking dice, to the serious 
 neglect, I was told, of the important afi^airs of life, as is fre- 
 quently the case elsewhere. 
 
 The city of La Paz (population 80,000) on both sides of the 
 Chuquiapu River, which flows at the bottom of the canon in 
 a southeasterly direction, has the greater part on the left bank. 
 From above it appears as if on the broad floor of a valley, but 
 later it is seen that both banks rise steeply from the stream. 
 Thus while the main streets running parallel to the river have 
 but slight incline, those at right angles are so steep as to make 
 carriage driving almost impossible. Both streets and side- 
 walks are narrow, and paved with small cobblestones, though 
 the walks have also blocks of stone, alternating checkerboard 
 fashion with the squares of cobbles. So narrow are the walks 
 that onl}^ two may go abreast, the gentlemen often stepping 
 into the gutter to allow a lady to pass. In fact on the steep 
 ways many prefer the middle of the street as being less slip- 
 pery, a safe enough place, as on these one meets chiefly other 
 pedestrians or llamas. The latter are one of the main attrac- 
 tions and charms of La Paz, troops of graceful animals occa- 
 sionally blocking the streets, bringing ice perhaps from the
 
 CATHEDRAL AND GOVERNMENT PALACE 
 
 il.il^L, \ir n 
 
 ':iLME.NT TO MLKILU
 
 THE CITY OF LA PAZ 135 
 
 glaciers of Illimani or some nearer and invisible mountain ; or 
 taquia, the dung of the Ihuna, here the chief fuel; or carrying 
 away imported merchandise to Indians or others, dwelling oft' 
 the few lines of railway. 
 
 The multitude of Indians (Aymards, less prepossessing than 
 the QuicJiuas) and of choJos, wl io together form nine- tenths 
 of the popuhition of Bolivia and two-thirds tliat ot La i'^azT 
 also gives a j)icturesque novelty to the ])hK'e, attractinLy eager 
 attention if not achuiration bv the strangeness of their per .- 
 ■ Son;ditv and garlj. The Indian men l)earing loads or driving 
 herds of llamas, both apparently belonging to some remote 
 patriarchal age, the women sitting in the streets or squares, 
 knitting as they preside over the sale of edibles, knit goods, or 
 other wares, or handing out a bowl of chupc (soup) to a 
 patron, the cholas (women of the half-breeds) in gay attire, 
 are a constant source of interest. 
 
 One's sight-seeing naturally begins with the open square 
 close to the hotel, called the Plaza MuriUo from the patriot, 
 Pedro Domingo Murillo, executed here in 1810. This, too, is 
 the spot where independence was first declared in 1809. The 
 square has seen many turbulent episodes. In 1894 the existing 
 park was laid out. The fountain in the center was the work 
 of a talented Indian, Feliciano Cantula, in 1855. 
 
 On the same side of the Plaza as the Cathedral is the Gov- 
 ernment Palace, erected in 1885; an earlier structure having 
 been destroyed by fire. This contains the offices of many state 
 officials and in the upper story the office and residence of the 
 President and his family. In October, 1908, a grand ball was 
 here given by President Montes in honor of the I'rincess Ar- 
 gendofia of Sucre, on which occasion the large patio was 
 entirely floored over at the second story to form a ball room, 
 which with the corridors was handsomel}' decorated with 
 hangings of heavy broadcloth in various colors. The aft'air 
 was altogether elegant, the costumes of the ladies in the latest 
 Parisian modes, the refreshments most elaborate; ices, cakes, 
 Jind wine were served at small tal)les thi'oughout the evening, 
 and at two, a fine supper with soup, hot meats, roast beef, 
 turkey, etc., delicious salads, and other viands. The dancing, 
 which beg;in al)out eleven, continued until seven a. m. 
 
 Across the corner is the Uall uf Conynss, a fine new edifice
 
 i;{6 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 completed in 1905, though sufficiently advanced for the inaug- 
 uration of President IMontos in 1904. In addition to the 
 Chambers of the Senate and the House of Deputies, the build- 
 ing contains among other offices those of the INIinister of 
 Foreign Relations. The Cathedral, close to the Hotel Cuibert, 
 in process of construction, is likely to continue thus for many 
 years. In 1835 a design was adopted of a Bolivian architect, 
 Padre Manuel Sanauja. The foundations were laid in 1843, 
 when stone cutters were imported from Europe to instruct 
 the Indians in cutting and polishing the stone. They proved 
 apt pupils and were soon qualified to continue the work, which 
 has, however, been much delayed through troublous times and 
 the fact that railroads and other projects for material ad- 
 vancement seemed of greater importance. Now, however, with 
 an appropriation of 100,000 hoi. annually, the construction 
 is slowly but steadily proceeding according to plans of Senor 
 Camponoro adopted in 1900. The structure when finished will 
 be the largest and most expensive cathedral erected in South 
 America since the Independence, and may be the finest of any. 
 Covering 4000 square meters it will be capable of seating 
 12,000 persons. Of the Graeco-Roman style, it will have five 
 naves with columns of polished stone, towers nearly 200 feet 
 high, and a dome, the top of which will be 150 feet above the 
 floor. Berenguela, a native marble, will be used for the great 
 altar. 
 
 Two blocks north of the Plaza is the pro-Cathedral, the 
 church of Santo Domingo, where such services are held as are 
 regarded as functions of State. Thus on the day of the fun- 
 eral of Pope Leo XIII in 1903, a procession including the 
 President, the Ministers of State, and other Bolivian officials, 
 with members of the Diplomatic Corps, all in evening dress, 
 the customary garb on formal occasions in South America and 
 Europe, marched from the Palace to the Church with a large 
 escort of soldiery, a regiment also lining the streets en route. 
 ^ The city contains twelve other churches, five public chapels. 
 «. five convents, and three monasteries. The handsomest church 
 Lis that of San Francisco on a plaza of the same name, down 
 on a fairly level space in the hollow. A church and convent 
 were erected here in 1547, but the present edifice dates from 
 1778. Its fagade of carved stone attracts attention, from its
 
 THE CITY OF LA PAZ 137 
 
 excellent design and workmanship. The interior has three 
 naves and eiglit altars, besides a high altar of carved cedar. 
 The convent with aecoininodations for two hundred at last ac- 
 counts had but fourteen inmates, tiiough recently recon- 
 structed from a legacy left by a rich lady of La Paz. The 
 convent contains one of the largest libraries of Bolivia. 
 
 Besides several other plazas, either entirely paved or having 
 a little green, there is the usual Alameda nearly half a mile 
 long, which, like the Plaza ]\Iurillo, has been the scene of con- 
 flicts. On the right bank of tlie stream towards the lower end 
 of the city, this quiet promenade, ornamented with several 
 rows of trees, has broad driveways, a wide central walk with 
 pools which swans adorn, and fountains with basins containing 
 gold fish. At each end of the Alameda are portals, of which 
 the lower, leading to the Plaza de la Concordia and the Ave- 
 nida Arce, was taken from a convent cloister and set up here 
 in 1828. Along the Alameda are many new and pretty resi- 
 dences in rather modern style, without a central patio, as also 
 above and beyond, this being a very fashionable and growing 
 section of the city. The tints of pale blue, green, yellow, 
 crushed strawberry, etc., in which the houses are painted, in 
 the clear sunlight and contrasting shadows present a gay and 
 pleasing appearance. 
 
 ]\Iore interesting to many than plaza or alameda is the 
 Market J'lacc found on tlie calle Diez de ^Medina, parallel to 
 tiie Coraercio, and two blocks down the hill. Going down the 
 street at the corner by the Guibert and turning to the left, 
 the entrance to the market, an arched portal, will ])e found in 
 the middle of the third l)loek on the ritrht hand. Though not 
 very noticea])le the market place occupies the greater part of 
 the square, the site of the former convent of San August in. 
 The best time for a visit is as early as possible on Sunday 
 morning, when hundreds or thousands of Indians come in 
 from outlying districts. The adjacent streets, as well as the 
 market, are thronged with these strange looking people. Both, 
 men and women have bare legs and feet, though some wear 
 sandals. Their heads are more carefully protected with woolen 
 hood and hat. The men's trousers are noticeable, wide at 
 the pockets according to Spanish style at the time of the 
 Conquest, and with a slit up the back, showing white drawers
 
 138 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 underneath. Made of dark cloth they are often worn lining 
 side out to preserve them from damage while wearers are at 
 work, wlien they appear gray. The women wear several short 
 heavy skirts, and over woolen waists a shawl or two, in one of 
 which a baby is apt to be carried on the back. The cJiola 
 women are much gayer in attire, v/ith many bright colored 
 woolen skirts, red, green, blue, yellow, one showing below an- 
 other, or with a richly embroidered, white under-petticoat, 
 these standing out like a balloon. They generally wear a 
 jaunty white or gray hat resembling a derby, several shawls, 
 often open-worked stockings, and shoes with high French heels. 
 A great contrast to these are the Spanish American ladies, in 
 the morning on the way to church or market rolled in black, 
 the black manta over their heads, but when calling or visiting 
 attired in the latest Paris fashions. The gentlemen, too, are 
 extremely punctilious as to correct dress, appropriate to the 
 hour and the function. 
 
 Within the market place and on the streets around are 
 women sitting by their stalls, in the doorways and on the side- 
 walks, selling their wares, dried and fresh fruits, vegetables, 
 hot soup, chufios (dried potatoes), cJialona (dried sheep), and 
 articles of almost every kind ; shoes, stockings, salt, sugar, 
 meat, coca leaves, rather coarse native lace, or cheap, imported, 
 machine-made, funny little rag dolls in Indian garb, five or 
 ten centavos each, red beans which w^ould make a pretty neck- 
 lace (they are not real beans), soft woolen mitts, mittens, and 
 caps, and coarse caps or hoods, with face masks. The women 
 are alwa.ys knitting (except at meal time) when not employed 
 with a customer. People Avill be found here at any hour of the 
 day and one may go again and again with interest ; the numer- 
 ous babies and toddlers, though dirty, add to the picturesque- 
 ness of the scene. The women seem pleasant and more prepos- 
 sessing than the men. The knitted articles are astonishingly 
 cheap and the dolls are of a quaint ugliness. Everything may 
 be found here but flowers, which are sold in a square on the 
 street below, just on the other side of the river, where fruit 
 also may be purchased. Sweet peas, pansies, roses, and other 
 flowers brought from farther down the valley are sold at very 
 modest prices. 
 
 There are many good shops in La Paz, the dry goods, mostly
 
 STUKKT NKAlt lilt: AIARKKT 
 
 IN TIIK CKMETEUY OK LA PAZ
 
 THE CITY OF LA PAZ 139 
 
 on the callc Coraercio or Diez de ^ledina ; the larfjcst called 
 El Condor, with several branches, doinf? an immense busi- 
 ness. There are book stores, banks, ami all ordinary insti- 
 tutions. The house of W. R. Grace is on the calle Medina 
 towards the market. The Post Office is on the ealle Comereio 
 just beyond the Palace, the ofifiee of the Prefect is on the 
 tloor above. A short distance down the steep street between 
 is the Police Station. 
 
 On the calle Junin, a block above Plaza IMurillo. is the office 
 entrance on Tndaburo of Don ^Manuel Y. Pallivian, preog- 
 rapher and statistician, formerly ^Minister of Agriculture, 
 who speaks English fluently and is most courteous in giving 
 information to students, explorers, or investigators of the 
 resources of the country. The Geographical Society, of which 
 IMr. Pallivian is President, has by its publications and re- 
 search contributed much to the knowledge of the country, 
 which ]\Ir. Ballivian has himself extensively explored. lie 
 is author and cditoi* of many valuable works. 
 
 On the first floor of the same building, with entrance on 
 calle Junin, is the M}(seum of Natural Histortj and Industrial 
 Propaganda, containing specimens of the flora, fauna, and 
 great mineral Avealth of the country, ancient sculpture, abo- 
 riginal mummies found on the plateau, pottery of the Inca 
 period and earlier, and other paraphernalia, as well as curi- 
 ous examples of modern textiles, and other work and imple- 
 ments of the civilized and savage Indians. 
 
 Passing two blocks along calle Indaburo one will find on 
 the left the Theater, of modern construction, recently remod- 
 eled and equal to the average theater anywhere. Entertain- 
 ments here given are fi'e(iuently subsidized by the Govern- 
 ment; as, however well patronized, the receipts would hardly 
 be sufficient to pay a company for the long expensive jour- 
 ney from the sea coast. At the corner of Indaburo and 
 Yanacocha is the Municipal Lihrar)/ and free reading room, 
 open day and evening, wiiere, as in all ((uarters. the in(|uir- 
 ing stranger will receive the greatest courtesy. On the block 
 between the lil)rary and the theater is the I'nivfrsitif. 
 
 As in other cities of the West Coast there is a Hull Hinq in 
 the outskirts where occasional fights are held with skillful
 
 140 TIIK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Spanish iorcadors. Several pleasant walks may be taken by 
 one who is fond of hill climbing. A litth; Chapel at the top 
 of the left wall of the canon to some may seem inviting. It 
 is an hour's walk, with suitable pauses affording attractive 
 views of the city and canon ; but the arrival is disappointing, 
 for a further though moderate slope cuts off the expected view 
 of plateau and distant mountains. Ilovv much farther one 
 would have to go to obtain this, I am unable to state. Some 
 writers warn the stranger not to walk at this altitude except 
 for short distances. It is well to be cautious the first day, espe- 
 cially if there is the slightest symptom of discomfort, and at 
 any time persons should avoid too rapid walking, especially 
 uphill, and be careful not to overdo. This is a great country 
 for climbing, its opportunities yet unimproved, Illiraani 
 (21,000 feet) being the only one of its high mountains whose 
 summit (by Sir ]\Iartin Conway) has yet been reached. There 
 is no better exercise, providing the recreation is wisely pur- 
 sued ; but of course not every one can endure the altitude even 
 of La Paz, to say nothing of 8000 or 10,000 feet more. 
 
 A walk down the valley may afford pleasure, though the 
 majority may prefer to employ a carriage, or a horse. On 
 foot he will hardly get far unless taking a whole day. The 
 road winds around, and the wall blocking the lower end of 
 the canon is more distant than it looks. It is a delightful little 
 drive to Obrajes, three miles distant. Every one should go 
 at least so far, and will then wish to continue. The curious 
 shapes of the canon walls, the bright variegated colors of the 
 cliffs, the road winding in great curves down the rapidly 
 descending canon, the beautiful green of alfalfa nu^adows, 
 the pretty villas and gardens, and glorious Illimani above, 
 excite ever increasing admiration. One with plenty of time at 
 his disposal may ride down the valley to a hacienda, Cebollullo, 
 at the foot of Illimani, enjoying the most magnificent scenery ; 
 but two days would be needed to go and return. Down this 
 canon one may proceed to the Yungas Valley, whence come 
 the vegetables and fruits for the La Paz market. A railway 
 will some day open up this country, extending to Puerto 
 Pando on the navigable waters of the Beni, whence one may 
 cross the continent to Para by boat and by the newly con-
 
 THE CITY OF LA PAZ 141 
 
 structed IMadera Mamore Railway, l)iit our tour does not lie 
 in that direction. 
 
 An excursion on foot or horseback may be nuide to the noted 
 gold mine Chuquiaguillo, a league from the city, which in 
 the eighteenth century ])roduced one hundred and twenty-five 
 million dollars gold. Here Indians were washing for gold 
 when the Spaniards arrived and here they work still under a 
 German superintendent, the gravel yielding about thirty-five 
 cents gold a cubic foot, with an occasional nugget. One found 
 in 1905 contained 45 oz. of gold. It was recently reported 
 that tliis property has been purchased by Americans, the Bo- 
 livian Goldfields Company.
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA— ROUTES TO THE SEA 
 
 Tiahuanaco. All who have an interest in legendary lore 
 and in ancient monuments of a mysterious past should surely 
 make the excursion to Tiahuanaco. Even those who have no 
 especial leanings in that direction cannot fail to be impressed 
 and may possibly be fascinated by these strange relics of a by- 
 gone age. Taking the morning train to Guaqui, one descends 
 at Tiahuanaco and after a stay of three or four hours may 
 return to La Paz in the evening. The real student could 
 profitably devote as many days as the ordinary tourist would 
 hours to the examination of the ruins. These are believed by 
 Sir Clements Markham to indicate the existence of a large 
 city, while others think that this was rather an immense sanc- 
 tuary and never a place of general residence. The existing 
 remains on the broad plateau, 135 feet above Lake Titicaca, 
 from which it is 12 miles distant, are supposed when erected 
 to have been on the shore of the lake. A great terraced 
 mound of earth, supported by stone walls, having an area of 
 620 by 450 feet and a height of 50 feet, is called a fortress, 
 and also a palace. Long used as a stone quarry for the erec- 
 tion of buildings in neighl)oring towns, even in La Paz, 60 
 miles distant, it is now in an extremely dilapidated condition. 
 The excavations of treasure seekers as well as of scientists 
 have also contributed to its ruin. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile from the station is a construc- 
 tion, generally regarded as a sacred enclosure, which has the 
 form of a rectangle, 388 by 445 feet, marked by granite blocks 
 15 feet apart and 8 or 10 feet high, conspicuous objects on 
 the brown plain, reminding of Stonehenge. These monoliths 
 are supposed to have been part of a wall, the spaces between 
 filled in with rough stones, A temple may have stood within, 
 but of this there are no remains. A massive monolithic gate- 
 way, broken and apparently not in its original position, may 
 
 142
 
 MONOLnniC GATEWAY, TIAUl ANACO 
 
 ^^ 
 
 INDIANS AT iKSTiyAL, TlAlli ANACU
 
 OTHER KEGIOXS OF BOLIVIA 143 
 
 once have afforded entrance to the enclosure. This great 
 piece of stone, 13 feet wide, 7 feet above ground and 3 feet 
 thick was probably fractured by an earthquake. The curious 
 and elaborate carvings on the ui)pcr part of one side have been 
 variously explained, but the interpretation endorsed by Sir 
 Clements IMarkham, long a profound student of Peruvian 
 antiquities, is most highly regarded. In the center is a 
 human head supposed to represent the creator of the universe 
 Pachacamac or Viraeoeha, to which the other figures, partly 
 human and some with heads of condors, seem to ott'er adora- 
 tion. Three other constructions, one called the hall of justice, 
 are remarkable for tlieir extent and for the cyclopean masses 
 of stone. There is abundant evidence of extraordinarily skill- 
 ful masonry and of excellence in sculpture. ]\Iany of the 
 enormous stones are unequaled in size in any other part of 
 the world save by the monoliths of Egypt and some near 
 Cuzco. One stone 36 feet long and 7 wide weighs 170 tons. 
 These have often ornamental carving. A number of statues 
 elaborately decorated have been found here, one of which 
 still stands upright within the enclosure. The great age of 
 these remains is unquestioned. One theory is that they date 
 from a period before the plateau Avas elevated to its present 
 position when it enjoyed a milder climate. 
 
 It is worth while to go over to the modern Indian village, 
 Tiahuanaco. On the plaza is a church, largely constructed 
 of stones taken from the ancient ruins. In front of the church 
 are two ancient and dilapidated statues, long since transported 
 from their original site. The interior of this small church 
 is of extraordinary magnificence, with elaborate gilt carvings, 
 an altar of pure silver, and some religious paintings of mod- 
 erate excellence. 
 
 On the 16th of September elaborate festivities occur, wlu-n 
 many Indians appear in velvet or plush garments, blue, pink, 
 or green, embroidered with gold or silver, wearing masks, 
 black, white, or yellow, and elaborate feather head dresses. 
 Pipes and drums, other wind instruments, and wooden rattles 
 make plenty of noise if not music. Some men are dressed 
 to represent devils, with horns and tail ; others, animals, as a 
 sheep or a green turtle. The finest suits cost each as nnich 
 as $200 gold. At Sorata town a still more elaborate festival
 
 144 THE SOUTH A.MEIUCAN TOUR 
 
 occurs at the same period, lasting for four or five days, 
 (iorgeoiis feather head dresses may be seen, and fans wiiich 
 could not be purchased for $75, The execution of the Inca 
 Atahuallpa is here represented with, mourning by the Indians. 
 These festivals are all accompanied or concluded by drunken 
 orgies. In La Paz, August 15, 1903, occurred somewhat sim- 
 ilar but milder festivities, Indians in costume and dances. 
 
 Sorata. One who is fond of horseback riding and not 
 afraid of a little discomfort might, with from five to seven 
 days to spare, enjoy an expedition to the town of Sorata. 
 This city of 8000 or 10,000 inhabitants is situated about a 
 hundred miles north of La Paz in a beautiful valley at the 
 foot of the mountain of the same name, better called by 
 the euphonius Indian appellation, Illampu. In 1916 a dili- 
 gence or covered wagon with four horses twice a week nuule 
 the trip by a fair road over the plain to Achacachi, perhaps 
 70 miles distant. The diligence sets out at a very early hour, 
 six or half past, making a rather long day. From Achacachi 
 to Sorata town it is a ride of from six to nine hours according 
 to the animals provided. These must be engaged in advance 
 in La Paz and prol)ably sent ahead to meet one there, in 
 which case it is obviously cheaper, though more tiresome, 
 to go on horseback all the Avay. If this method of travel 
 is decided upon, or indeed the other, an arriero must be en- 
 gaged to provide saddle animals and to take care of them, 
 being paid somewhat in advance. Unless he receives a sum 
 to bind the bargain and to pay his preliminar}" expenses, 
 whatever he may promise, he is likel}' never to be seen again. 
 But having accepted money, he generally carries out the bar- 
 gain, though a Avritten contract is desirable. An arriero once 
 agreed with me to furnish four animals, two saddle, one of 
 these for himself, and two baggage animals for eight hoi. a 
 day for all, he paying the expenses for his own food and the 
 animals; but it might cost double that now. j\Iuch depends 
 on chance and ability at bargaining. If making the journey 
 on horseback one should at least take the early train to the 
 alto arranging in advance for the animals to meet him above. 
 Setting out from there promptly, a good horseman with first- 
 rate animals might reach Guarina or even Achacachi the 
 same evening and from either place go on to Sorata the next
 
 OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA 145 
 
 day. Soon after leaving the Alto Station all traces of life 
 disappear save what is met iii)on the road, Indians with llamas, 
 burros, etc. The brown plain shows no signs of cultivation, 
 being thickly covered with stones. No village or hut is 
 passed for hours. But the threat peaks seen from slowly 
 varying angles are a continujd source of enjoyment. A 
 splendid imposing mountain, Huaina Potosi or Cacaaca, about 
 21,000 feet, with tin mines on its lower slopes, affords an 
 opportunity for a difficult first ascent. The tamho, Cocuta, 
 should be reached in time for almucrzo; at the very least, 
 j\Iachacamarca for the night : better Guarina, if possible. If 
 one lodges at ]\Iachacamarca one must spend the next night 
 at Achacachi and go the third day to Sorata. It is desirable, 
 even necessary, to take blankets for the niglit, and to provide 
 in the alforjas (saddle bags), a supply of chocolate, raisins, 
 etc., perhaps canned meat and crackers. At Cocuta, and the 
 other places, meals are provided, soup, eggs, beefsteak, coarse 
 bread, and tea, but betwe n Achacachi and Sorata there is no 
 place for luncheon ; and some chocolate, etc., will come in very 
 well the first day. Except at Achacachi no bed will be found 
 better than a couch of adobe, but with blankets a hard bed is 
 no harm. I have heard dire tales of the insect life which in- 
 fests some such places, but in my own considerable experience, 
 I never found anything worse than fleas and not many of them. 
 The immense snow fields of Illampu come into view soon after 
 leaving Cocuta. Before reaching Guarina there are glimpses 
 of Lake Titicaca. Between Achacachi and Sorata the Ilua- 
 llata pass is crossed at a height of 14,000 feet. This is a big 
 buttress of Illampu, from the top of which one has a splendid 
 view of the enormous mountain massif close at hand, with 
 its several summits all from this side seeming absolutely un- 
 cliiii])able. Descending towards Sorata attention is divided 
 between the tremendous cliffs of Illampu on the right and the 
 romantic ^Mapiri Valley below. The town, Sorata, at an alti- 
 tude of 8000 feet, has a charmingly picturesque local ion- on a 
 terrace near the head of the valley, among trees, shrubs, and 
 fragrant flowers, in striking contrast to tlie bare, bleak, brown 
 plain above. On one side the grim walls and glittering sum- 
 mits of Illampu rise nearly 14.000 feet (the height of the 
 mountain being over 21,000), contrasting sharply with tho
 
 146 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 bluish purple tints down the steeply enclosed gorge opposite. 
 At no distant day electric cars will cross the mountain ridge, 
 and this cliariuing town will be regularly included in the 
 fashionable tours of South America. Sorata now has a fair 
 hotel, as it is the headquarters for several rubber companies 
 which conduct the industry on the lower eastern slope of the 
 Andes, and for many miners who seek placer deposits, or 
 the veins above them, also on the eastern side. Any one 
 with the spirit of the explorer would find it a most interesting 
 trip to make the circuit of the mountain: not a difficult task, 
 but probably never yet accomplished by a white person. To 
 the mountaineer, Illampu still affords opportunity for a 
 splendid first ascent. Miss Peck in IDOi being obliged to turn 
 back in good weather and a fine condition of the mountain at 
 about 20,500 feet simply because her companions refused to 
 advance ; while Conway in 1898 retreated from a higher point 
 on account of dangerous conditions of the snow. AVith Swiss 
 guides the ascent should be easily made, or without them by 
 experts like the conquerors of Mt. McKinley, Parker and 
 Browne. 
 
 Trains from La Paz Thursday and Sunday at 4.15 p. m. arrive at 
 Ariea at 10.50 the next morning. Sleeping cars. 
 
 La Paz to Arica. At La Paz, if not earlier, decision must 
 be made as to the route in leaving this remarkable city. At 
 present two are offered besides that by which we have come ; 
 one by Arica, the other by Antofagasta. If one is averse to 
 a long railroad journey and is not eager to see other Bolivian 
 cities, Oruro, Potosi, Cochabamba, he will prefer the Arica 
 road, 250 miles, by which trains were expected to descend from 
 La Paz in twelve hours to the sea, and the upward journey 
 was to occupy sixteen. On account of the steep grade, the 
 rack-rail system is employed on one stretch for a distance of 
 25 miles. To render harmless the rapid change in atmospheric 
 pressure, in ascending 14,000 feet in eight or ten hours, a spe- 
 cial car-chamber was planned to contain compressed air of the 
 density at sea level. The difference in temperatures is greater 
 than by the other routes. In winter it ma}' be below Fahr. at 
 the summit, and a few hours later at Arica it may be 86°, 
 though probably less if arriving at evening. Parlor and sleep-
 
 MT. ILLAMPU, 21,750 FT. FKOM THE PLATEAU, 13,000 FT. 
 
 SOUATA TOWN
 
 OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA 147 
 
 ing cars are provided and as these are to be heated there 
 should be no trouble on that score. Havint; come up com- 
 fortably one is not likely to be troubled going down. If in- 
 clined to see a mining town one may branch off to Corocoro, 
 six miles from the main line, a place of about 15,000 people, 
 long famous for its mines of copper and tin. The copper 
 mines have been called the richest in South America. The 
 lodes are in a sandstone formation in fine grains through the 
 matrix. After grinding and concentration a product results, 
 85 per cent pure. The Arica road has jilanned a track of its 
 own from Viacha to the Altos and city of La Paz, by the route 
 to be followed, a distance of 22 miles. 
 
 The Jamiraya Canon. To the traveler in search of novelty 
 outside the ])eateu track, and to the scientist, the route by way 
 of Arica affords a chance to visit one of nature's wonders, 
 the existence of which is unknown to most Bolivians, as well 
 as to the rest of the world. This is a remarkable gorge called 
 the Jamiraya Canon, of which I received definite information 
 from two English scientists who had just visited it. In 
 the Lluta Valley some distance back of Arica, it is a few miles 
 south of the railway between km. 92 and 132 of the line. It 
 is best visited from Arica on account of the necessity for 
 arranging in advance to be met by animals at the station 
 IMoleno, tlie terminus of a branch line 5-4 kms. from Arica. 
 The first bivouac may be made in Cata 27 kms. distant, from 
 which point a day's ride with a steep climb will lead to 
 Socoroma, where night's lodging may be obtained at the vil- 
 lage store. From here one may ride down into the canon at 
 Jamiraya or to Ancolacalla, returning after a night or two 
 at the bottom. Both places are desirable to visit, but it is 
 a day's journej' from one to the other, as it is necessary to 
 go to the top and come down again. The finer scenery is 
 at Ancolacalla near which is a beautiful waterfall. It is 
 said that the walls of the canon rival if they do not surpass 
 those of the Yosemite, being six or seven thousand feet in 
 height, often very sleep, tlie angle varying from 45 to 1)0°. 
 At the bottom the canon in i)hices is but two or three meters 
 wide, and at the top from a lew iuiiidi-iMJ feet to possibly ii 
 mile. At Jamiraya the i-uiiis of huts add a i)i>culiar interest. 
 The walls, which are of varied and beautiful colors, are 
 
 cA^A. -^-^c."-^^ ^.r^^ .<v^-^
 
 148 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 chiefly volcanic rock, with some granite on the floor. Water 
 should he carried, as that at the bottom of the gorge is bad. 
 Few covers are needed as in the depths the w^eather is warm. 
 
 Other Bolivian Cities. If more time can be allotted to 
 Bolivia, a week or two may be agreeably spent in visiting the 
 cities of Cochabamba, Potosi, and even Sucre, though that is 
 more remote. The newly constructed railway 125 miles in 
 length, if now open from Oruro to Cochabamba, will make the 
 latter easily accessible. This, called the Garden City of Bo- 
 livia, was founded in 1574 in a beautiful valley on the east 
 side of the mountains, here called the Royal Range. Much 
 wealth, culture, and refinement is here manifest, as well as in 
 Sucre, though both cities have been so remote from the rest 
 of the world. 
 
 Cochabamba with its suburbs has a population of 40,000 or 
 more; it boasts of six pretty plazas, adorned Avith trees and 
 flowers, and an Alameda with five divisions, a fashionable 
 driveway. There are handsome public buildings and 
 churches; but the scenery and climate are the chief attrac- 
 tions, and a complete recompense for the railway journey 
 from Oruro. 
 
 Potosi, a name much more familiar on account of the almost 
 fabulous wealth of which it has been the source, deserves a 
 visit on very different grounds. Not for its delightful cli- 
 mate, smiling skies, and surroundings of placid beauty, but 
 for its historic associations, the remains of colonial grandeur, 
 and for its impressive if more gloomy scenerj\ From Rio 
 Mulato, 130 miles beyond Oruro, a railway has been recently 
 built to this ancient city 105 miles distant. In 1545 it was 
 founded, after the discovery of the wonderful silver mines, 
 which according to a moderate estimate have yielded about 
 four billion dollars, another writer says one billion, up to the 
 present time. It is related that one man paid no less than fif- 
 teen million dollars as tax on the production of his mine, one- 
 fifth being supposed to go to the crown. It is said that 7000 
 mines have been opened in the Cerro, the hill back of the 
 town, 700 of which are being worked for silver and tin to-day. 
 Great extravagance naturally accompanied the production of 
 great Avealth, and many stories are told of the expenditure and 
 display of riches in the early period. At one time the city had
 
 OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA 149 
 
 a population of 150,000, now dwindled to about 25,000. It 
 contains many interesting ruins of colonial palaces and 
 churches, including a finely carved tower of the old Jesuit 
 church, notable carved doorways of San Lorenzo, the palace 
 of Don Jose de Quiroz, and others. The Plaza Pichincha 
 contains a handsome monument to the Independence, and is 
 bordered by several public buildings, the City Hall, and the 
 Pichincha College. A Public Library and ^luseum are of 
 interest, still more the great Casa de ]\Ioneda or Mint cover- 
 ing two blocks. 
 
 A visit to the top of the famous Cerro may be made on 
 horseback. A splendid view is enjoyed from the summit. Of 
 extreme interest are the great artificial lakes on the slopes, 
 built by the Spaniards to furnish a constant water supply 
 for the working of the mines. The construction ol" the thirty- 
 two lakes consumed nearly fifty years, the largest being 3 
 miles in circumference and about 30 feet deep. Two of them 
 are at an altitude of 16,000 feet. Each is surrounded by five 
 sets of walls, all together about 30 or 40 feet thick. The mines 
 are by no means exhausted and with the opening of the rail- 
 way, mining operations will doubtless be largely increased. 
 
 Sucre. A coach road 100 miles long leads from Potosi to 
 Sucre, the nominal capital of the Republic, which will soon 
 be connected by rail with tlie region of the west. Tlie city, 
 pleasantly located among the liills at an altitude of 10,01)0 
 feet, is noted for its fine climate wliich must certainly seem 
 agreeable to a resident of the plateau above. In fact many 
 of the wealthy mine owners of Potosi in former days, if not 
 at the present time, made their homes here, where life is 
 much more enjoyable. ]\Iade the capital of Bolivia in 1S26 
 it still has the name, though now it is the seat only of the 
 Supreme Court aiul of tlie Areliieiuseopal See; the Legislative 
 and Executive I)ei)artments of (loverninent being at La Pa/. 
 The Legislative Palace of Sucre with handsomely decorated 
 halls still remains, there is a stately new Government Palace, a 
 Palace of Justiee, the I'niversity of San Franeisco Xavier, 
 and other important buildings. Among the elnirehes, the 
 Metropolitan Catiiedral is tlie riehesl in Bolivia. The Virgin 
 of Guadalupe, an image of solid gold, with its rich adornment 
 of jewels, is said to be worth a million. Among the nine
 
 150 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 plazas, that of the 25 de ]\layo has a special mark of distinc-tion 
 in the fact that it has two streams, one on each side, one of 
 wliicli flowing northward joins the Maiiiore so reaching the 
 Amazon, wliile the otlier tnrning southeast goes on to the 
 Pilcomayo and at last to the estuary of La Plata. 
 
 One who sees only the plateau region of Bolivia knows 
 but a small part of the country ; the section east of the Andes, 
 now becoming aceessi])le, is far more attractive and within a 
 half century may have the larger part of the population. 
 
 From La Paz to Antofagasta. The remaining route from 
 La Paz to the sea will be followed by those who have visited 
 any of the three cities last mentioned, the old road by Avay of 
 Oruro to the southern port, Antofagasta, though not until 
 1908 was the railway opened between Oruro and Viacha. 
 Many in the past have groaned over the journey which for- 
 merly involved two days by diligence to Oruro and three by 
 rail to Antofagasta, but since the introduction of sleeping 
 cars on the old section and the completion of the new the trip 
 may be made in 48 hours. Within the year the road was 
 expected to be opened from Viacha down to La Paz, an- 
 other great improvement. 
 
 Except for the tine view of Illimani on the left in the 
 early part of the journey, the ride to Oruro is of no great 
 interest. Some tall mud built piers may excite curiosity: 
 a few remaining from, those erected three centuries ago which 
 formerly, it is said, marked the entire route from Lima to 
 Potosi. Before reaching Oruro, a ride of about seven hours, 
 a snow-crowned volcanic peak may be seen at the southeast, 
 Sajama, with an alleged altitude of 22,700 feet. A possi- 
 bility is therefore presented of its overtopping Aconcagua, 
 or like Coropuna turning out 1000 feet lower. 
 
 At the station Patacamaya a halt was formerly made for 
 almuerzo. Strange to say, the restaurant, where a fair meal 
 was served, was kept by an American and his wife who had 
 been living there about twenty years. The gentleman re- 
 marked that he was contented, doing well, and had no desire 
 to return to the States. Fortunate it is that all have not the 
 same tastes, some enjoying the warm tropics, some the desert, 
 some the cool plateau, some happy only in large cities, and 
 others whom the solitary places please. Many who go down
 
 INDIANS TR.\XSPOI{TI.\iJ lltKlGHT 
 
 PLAZA AND UUVEU.N.ME.NT l'AL.\CE, ORUKO
 
 OTHER REGIONS OP BOLIVIA 151 
 
 to engage in railroad eoiistruclion, to work in mines or smel- 
 ter, or even to fill office positions in cities, soon become tired 
 and retui'n ; otliers, being successful, and persons of more ira- 
 l)0itancc than they would be at liome, are glad to settle perma- 
 nently in those countries. 
 
 Oruro is an impoi-tnnt mining town of about 2U,000 people, 
 with a very good hotel, the Union, facing the pretty Plaza. 
 Arriving on Wednesday or Satui'day at Oruro, one may the 
 same evening- at 7.30 take the express train for Antofagasta, a 
 ride of 36 hours. The plateau seems rather dreary and only 
 those who have an interest in mining matters will care to stay 
 over. The various mines on the outskirts of the city produce 
 both silver and tin. There are many foreign residents 
 with several clubs and life is not so dismal as may at first 
 glance appear, although the climate at this altitude of 12,500 
 feet in the exposed position on the plain is a trifle raw. The 
 Government Palace and the University building face the 
 Plaza, and the city boasts of a theater, a public library, 
 and a mineralogical museum, as well as the usual churches, 
 hospitals, and schools. Oruro was noted during the colonial 
 ])eriod as next to Potosi in the richness and production of its 
 mines and in 1678 is said to have had 76,000 inhabitants. 
 In the immediate vicinity are half a dozen mines, formerly 
 great silver producers, but now worked chiefly though not 
 entirely for tin. The San Jose mine, two miles from the 
 town, several years ago was yielding $55,000 a month in 
 tin and silver. It is an interesting place to visit, employ- 
 ing 1000 or more people and ecjuipped with the best of modern 
 machinery. There are workings 1000 feet deep. The Soeavon 
 de la Virgen, nearer the city, is one of the oldest of Bolivia. 
 In all four provinces of this Department are rich tin mines. 
 The ore is treated by grinding and concentration, the product 
 exported averaging about 64 per cent tin. Copper also is 
 found, and larther south boi'ax, and metals ol" almost every 
 kind. 
 
 Por the tlirough journey 1<» Anlol'auasla, staterooms should 
 be engaged in advance at La Paz. The road from Oruro to 
 Antofagasta which was of very narrow gauge, 2'j feet, the 
 nai-rowest in the woi'id on a road for general tratHic, is now 
 being widened. The work has been completed as far as
 
 152 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Uyuni, so that now one changes sleepers at this point, about 
 midway of the journey, when going in either direction. In 
 a dining car meals are served, almuerzo and dinner, very 
 poor for tlie price, a dollar or more each. [Morning coffee 
 may be had in one's stateroom. These are fair!}' comfortable 
 in the newer coaches of the broader gauge, and are provided 
 with plenty of blankets, yet it is well to carry a traveling 
 rug which will be useful on the highlands as well as on the 
 steamers. 
 
 Traveling from Oruro at night one misses the sight of 
 Lake Poopo. Poopo is a curious shallow, salt, and turbid 
 lake with no visible outlet, fed by the Desaguadero River 
 from Lake Titieaca. Although 2-4 by 53 miles in extent it 
 is at most but 9 feet deep, often less than 5. and seems to be 
 shrinking. In this dry air and strong sunshine the water may 
 in time disappear, leaving only a bed of salt. 
 
 Uyuni, from which the railway is now being continued to 
 Tupiza, 125 miles be.yond on the Pan American route to Argen- 
 tina, is also passed in the night. From Tupiza it is hardly 60 
 miles to La Quiaca which was reached by the Argentine Rail- 
 way several years ago. A few miles from Uyuni are the Pula- 
 cayo and Huanchaca mines which have produced within thf 
 last quarter century about 5000 tons of silver. The section 
 ranks as the second silver district in the world (the first is 
 Broken Bow, Australia) . Electricity is here the motor power ; 
 Corliss engines render service; several thousand men and 
 women are employed, the latter sorting ore with wonderful 
 accuracy. 
 
 The day following is spent among the desert mountains. The 
 hills are red, yellow, white, and gray, dotted with black 
 cinders. Volcanoes are numerous, mostly extinct but show- 
 ing perfect cones against the blue of the sky. Large level 
 sheets of saline material are frequent. Some jagged hills 
 have streaks, blood-red or chrome-yellow. The volcano San 
 Pedro, 17,170 feet, may be smoking. From a smaller cone, 
 Porufia, at its side, stretches a great stream of lava, like a 
 glacier, half a mile wide and several long, through which in 
 a cutting the railroad passes. Just before dark, close to the 
 Conchi station, the train crosses a viaduct 336 feet above the 
 Loa River, more than twice as high as the celebrated Forth
 
 OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA 153 
 
 Bridge. It is a graceful steel structure with six lattice girder 
 spaus of 80 feet each, on steel towers. 
 
 Early the second morning one arrives at Antofagasta. In 
 1916 there were seiui-weckly through trains in hoth directions 
 between this city and La i*az.
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 THE CHILIAN COAST— ARICA TO VALPARAISO 
 
 Arica. Arriving at Arica by sea, or departing as well, one 
 may observe in great wbite letters on the rocky ^lorro, Viva 
 Jiatallun No. 4, commemorating the Chilian victory with its 
 massacre of Peruvians, June 7, 1880. The 1700 Peruvians 
 here stationed, whose cannon were directed towards the sea, 
 suffered an assault in the rear from 4000 Chilians who had 
 landed at night several miles below. Short of small arms and 
 ammunition, after an heroic defense for one hour, the com- 
 mander, Col. Bolognesi, perished having used his last cart- 
 ridge, and many soldiers leaped to the rocks by the sea, who 
 preferred this death to having their throats cut by the Chil- 
 ians. Others were crowded off by Chilian bayonets, and 
 for months the bodies were seen below. No prisoners were 
 taken, the entire garrison of 1700 being slaughtered. 
 
 The harbor, one of the best south of Callao, is called by 
 one writer the emerald gem of the West Coast, on account of 
 its green trees and other verdure. The line of railway may 
 be seen among the cliffs, and a great cross on the highest hill- 
 top. The town is called by one person very squalid, by an- 
 other a neat, attractive place in comparison with most of tne 
 port cities, the houses of various colors, blue, green, orange, 
 etc., many with arched entrances affording pleasing views of 
 an inner patio. On account of earthquakes the buildings 
 are chiefly of one story, many of corrugated iron. The most 
 noted of the 'quakes was that of 1868 when two United States 
 frigates were in the harbor. One of these, the Freedonia, 
 was lost with all on board ; the other, the Watet-ce, by a waye 
 60 feet high, was carried over houses a mile inland, suffering 
 a loss of half the crew. The ship there became the home of 
 several Indian families, until the next earthquake and wave 
 carried it back to the beach Avithout doing injury to the oc- 
 
 154
 
 THE CHILIAN COAST 155 
 
 cupants. Rarely from tlie liar])or may be had a beautiful 
 sunset view of snow-crowned Mt. Taeora, 19,000 feet, tliou^h 
 other mountains are frequently seen. In this port Ilernaiido 
 Pizarro built shijis for the invasion of Chile. On the ])road 
 beacli is a prehistoric cemetery with embalmed mummies, said 
 to be equal to those of Egypt. Some of the eyes are translu- 
 cent with a rich amber tint, which scientists say are of squid 
 or cuttle-fish here numerous, substituted for the eyes of the 
 dead. It is said that when some of these were sent to Tif- 
 fany's ill New York to be polished, the workmen suffered a 
 violent irritation of the eyes, lips, nostrils, and tliroat. 
 Though all recovered, the work was not resumed. An analy- 
 sis showed animal matter with saltpeter and unknown miner- 
 als. 
 
 It is believed that along here is a subterranean outlet of 
 Lake Poopo, as the fresh water fish of Lake Titieaea, pcccajay, 
 are caught in the ocean, and driftwood of the mountain vege- 
 tation appears. Forinerl}^ Arica Avas a great market for 
 vicuna skins, which were brought down from the interior, 
 but their number has now greatly diminished. A highway 
 constructed by the Incas 1000 years ago, called the camino 
 real, has been in use ever since, the Bolivians, even after the 
 construction of the railroad to ]Mollendo, still using it to 
 liriiig down ore by means of llamas and burros and to carry ui) 
 su])i)lies. The new railroad may not cause a complete disuse 
 of the old route, as the carriage of freight by a road of so 
 iieavy a grade is likely to be expensive. 
 
 Tacna, 38 miles distant, capital of the province, connected 
 by rail with Arica, is a pretty and a larger city, woi-tliy a 
 visit. The prosperity of tliis section has ])een delayed li\ 
 11i(» friction and hostile feeling between the Peruvian and 
 Cliilian Governments and peoples, resulting from the unfor- 
 tunate war 1879-1883, and the unsettled conditions following. 
 The Tacna-Arica (pu'slion has lieen one of grcalt-r Itittt-riK'ss 
 than that of Alsace-Lorraine; tiie present arrangement, to 
 l)Ostpone the plcbiscile twenty-one years, will be greatly to 
 tiie advantage of both countries. On the desert between the 
 two cities is often an unusual elTect of mirage, and from 
 Tacna there is a mountain view of much grandeur. 
 
 Iquique. The next important port south of Arica is Icpii-
 
 156 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 que, but between the two is Pisagua where many boats call, 
 affording opportunity for any who desire, to disembark and 
 go 124 miles by rail to Iquique, thus to see without loss of 
 time something of the rich nitrate lands of Tarapaca. This 
 part of the coast may not look very different from much of 
 the Peruvian, yet it is still more of a desert ; for the Peruvian 
 will blossom like a rose, with a sufficient water supply, while 
 this is less easily transformed. In Liuique, gardens and 
 plazas have been made by bringing from a distance artificial 
 soil for the trees, shrubs, and plants, which must be care- 
 fully nurtured. The nitrate ports are said to look like west- 
 ern mining towns, with wide streets, and one-story houses 
 made from Oregon lumber, with iron roofs. There are many 
 shops selling much liquor and canned stuffs. The streets 
 were formerly dusty, the air full of sand. Unnatural tastes 
 were developed by the conditions. Two miners in earlier days, 
 wishing to enjoy a feast, sat down with two cans of pate 
 d.e foic gras, a loaf of bread, a bottle of brandy, and two cans 
 of condensed milk, the last being eaten with spoons as des- 
 sert. 
 
 Iquique. Hotels, Phoenix, 8 to 15 pesos, Europa, 7 to 15, 
 Grand, 6 to 10. all A. P. Long the leading Chilian port for 
 the nitrate industry, it is now surpassed in this specialty by 
 Antofagasta. With a population of 50,000, called a fine city, it 
 has an enormous commerce for its size, not merely from the 
 export of nitrates but because it is unique in having all its 
 supplies brought in by sea, food, fuel, and formerly water. 
 The port receives more than 1000 vessels a year. The popula- 
 tion is rather rough and hard to govern, though with a circle 
 of aristocratic society, with the usual accessories. The Arturo 
 Prat Plaza with a statue of the hero in the center is an at- 
 tractive place. One may here first observe women conductors 
 on the street cars, many of whom will be seen in other Chilian 
 cities. 
 
 Water, formerly, when brought by sea, 10 cents a gallon 
 and at times $2.00 when the supply boat was overdue, now 
 comes from the mountains, a distance of 148 miles, by a 10 
 or 12-inch pipe, partly on the surface of the desert, or buried 
 two or three feet. To Antofagasta water is brought 173 miles 
 from a point 10,700 feet above the sea; to Taltal, 102 miles.
 
 THE CHILIAX COAST 157 
 
 Though expensive, costing millions, it has proved profitable. 
 The streets of Iquique are now piped, hydrants protect 
 against fire, the dust is laid by sprinklers, some people have 
 bathrooms, a few, fountains in patios, a costly luxury. It 
 was once said that people drank chainpa^'ue liecause wattT 
 was too expensive. It is an entez-prising community with a 
 good portion of Anglo-Saxons; there are broad streets, fine 
 churches, schools, hospitals, a large theater, pleasant homes, 
 and good CIuIjs. Some of the people entertain sumptuously, 
 with dinner parties as in London. A broad driveway along 
 the beach leads to Cavancha, an attractive resort with a 
 dancing pavilion, and a choice flower garden tended with ut- 
 most care. Halfway is the Jockey Club-house, with race 
 track, tennis, and bowling. 
 
 A railway climbs the variously colored mountain back of 
 J(iuique to the Pampa of Tamarugal, Avhere it branches to 
 various oficinas, interesting to visit if time allows. People 
 who are born and have lived in this section can hardly be- 
 lieve stories about grass that has to be cut, and of trees and 
 flowers. A girl of sixteen who had visited Santiago on her 
 retui-n said, "Trees, trees, everywhere, grass growing in a 
 thick mat, and hundreds of flowers! A perfect paradise!" 
 
 The valuable nitrate lands which, previous to the war, be- 
 longed to Peru and Bolivia are now the chief source of Chile's 
 wealth. Yet it is a curious fact that though Chile receives 
 from her export tax on nitrates the large sum of $13,700,000 
 annually, the finances of the country, if they may be judged 
 by the currency, are in a poorer condition than those of Peru, 
 where with a firm gold basis gold and silver coins are used, 
 wliile in Chile there is paper money of low and fluctuating 
 value. 
 
 The nitrate deposits are found in tiie thi'ce provinces of 
 Tarapaca, Antofagasta, and Atacania, along from Pisagna to 
 C()(|uimbo, about 800 miles. The deposits with an average 
 width of 2Vli miles are between the coast hills and the And»'s, 
 30 to 80 miles from the sea, and from 2000 to ')()()() or more 
 feet above it.s level, covering a tract of about 2r)().0()() acres. 
 The deposits, sometimes on the surface, are oftener overlaid 
 with strata of earth varying in thickness and character, oc- 
 casionally with guano. They are not continuous, but sep-
 
 158 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 aratcd by other deposits, in some places salt. The raw mate- 
 rial called caliche carries usually from 20 to 65 per cent of ni- 
 trate of soda. It is pickled in tanks from eight to twelve 
 hours, the sand and refuse droppin<j; to the bottom. The liquid 
 called caJdo runs off into vats. The salt by-product is used 
 or diseai"ded. When treated and ready for export the article 
 carries 15 to 16 per cent of nitrogen and 36 per cent of so- 
 dium. The amount of production was formerly regulated by 
 a syndicate, according to reciuirements. About '.ioSHH) men 
 are employed, the laborers earning from $1.00 to $2.00 a 
 day. These establishments, called oficinas, are interesting to 
 visit, but it is a gloomy, depressing region for most persons. 
 The superintendents, doctors, and other officials receive good 
 salaries and are supplied with comfortable quarters. $100,- 
 000,000 or more of British capital and some German, is 
 invested here and large fortunes have been made. New 
 nitrate fields recently discovered are held at $2000 an acre. 
 
 The nitrate of commerce is a white cheese-like substance 
 from which the highest grade gunpowder is made; it is also 
 used in chemical works to produce nitric and sulphuric acid, 
 etc., but the bulk of it is employed as a fertilizer, doubling or 
 tripling the harvest. A mineral substance, it is distinguished 
 from guano, the excrement of birds. As to its origin there 
 are various theories, but none is generally accepted. A by- 
 product, a yellow liquor, which in its preparation is drawn off 
 from the nitrate into a crucible, is then chemically treated, 
 poured into smaller pans, and on cooling leaves on the dish 
 a blue crystal, the iodine of commerce, which costs as much 
 per ounce as saltpetre per 100 lbs. The casks in which it is 
 placed are covered with green hides which shrink and keep 
 out the moisture. Worth $700 to $800 a cask, the iodine is 
 shipped in the treasure vaults with bullion. About 40 per 
 cent of the nitrate goes to Germany, 30 to the United States, 
 20 to France, the rest to Great Britian and Belgium. 
 
 Antofagasta. The next port, 200 miles below Iquique, at 
 which express boats call, is Antofagasta, the terminus of the 
 other railway from Bolivia, via Oruro. Here are sea-lions, 
 diving birds, and a considerable town, but no sheltered harbor, 
 in spite of which much commerce is carried on. This, ^\'itll 
 Iquique, as a poor port, almost rivals jMolIendo. One writer
 
 THE CHILIAN COAST 159 
 
 says it is an ugly duu-colored place, auothcr that it is tlie 
 prettiest town since leaving l^anaina. It has an air of pros- 
 perity with good shops and business houses, a coiiit'ortahle 
 hotel, the Grand, A. P., 7 to 20 pesos, well furnished rooms, 
 and real milk ; a grumbler says the hotel is very bad. Much de- 
 pends upon one's disposition, ])oint of view, what he expects, 
 and where he has come from ; and you may read exactly op- 
 posite opinions of many i)laces and people, as happens even 
 of cities in the United States. From Antofagasta nuich 
 copper is now exported from the large new American plant 
 at Chuquicamata. 
 
 Caldera, 207 miles south of Antofaga.sta, has a sheltered 
 harbor, and the oldest railway in South America connecting it 
 with the town of Copiapo ; but express boats call only at Co- 
 quimbo, 200 miles farther and 200 north of Valparaiso. 
 
 Coquimbo, at the end of the desert country, a busy port, 
 is situated at the foot and up the side of cliffs. The country 
 around is very rich in fossils. At Herradura on Ilorseslioe 
 Bay was found a petrified icthyosaurus 20 feet long, which 
 visitors are taken to see; they are informed tliat it is 12,000 
 years old. Above in the mountains, at an altitude of 4000 
 feet, is a very sacred shrine, a Virgin of the Kosary, at a 
 small village called Andacollo, During Christmas week pil- 
 grims come by thousjinds from all pai-ts of the country, even 
 from Peru and Argentina, some walking hundreds of miles. 
 Precious gifts and jewels valued at hundreds of thousands of 
 dollars have been i)resented at various times. 
 
 One day's sail from Co(iuimbo is Valparaiso. 
 
 Chile. The count ly of Chile is very j)eeuliar; let me 
 hasten to add, in nothing more serious than its shape. It is 
 indeed excessively long and narrow, its great extent from 
 north to south, 18° to 56° S. Lat., a distance of nearly :{000 
 miles, giving it a remarkable variety of productions and 
 making it larger than any lOurojx'an count ly except Kussia, 
 although it is only from 100 to 300 niih's wide. It is ])ee\iliar 
 also that in spite of its scanty width, it is divided into three 
 nari-ower strips, a low Coast Range, a longitudinal valley or 
 plateau, and the high range of the Andes. With pi-aelieally 
 no rain in the north, it has a gradually inei'easing rainfall to- 
 wards the south, till near the exti-eiiiily there is rather too
 
 160 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 much. The northern part is tlie nitrate and mining section: 
 the central and larger part is an agricultural zone of great 
 possibilities, with good pasturage area ; while farther south is 
 an excellent forest region. There must obviously be a great 
 variety of scenery as well as of climate, so that in one section 
 or another all tastes may be gratified. 
 
 Chile was first invaded by Europeans soon after the founding of 
 Lima in 1535. To Pizarro, Charles V, on hearing of the conquest, 
 had given the countiy seventy leagues south of that previously be- 
 stowed; to Diego de Almagro the two hundred leagues beyond. In 
 which section lay Cuzco was a matter of dispute. Pending its set- 
 tlement Almagro decided to conquer the remainder of his province. 
 That this region was richer in gold and silver than Peru was doubt- 
 less a tale of the Incas to distract the conquerors for their own ad- 
 vantage. However, with an army of Spaniards and some Indian 
 captives, Almagro set out over the Bolivian plateau to investigate 
 and take possession of the unknown eountr3^ On the barren heights 
 they sutfered hunger, cold, and mountain sickness, the difficulties of 
 this terrible journey in many ways surpassing those of Hannibal 
 and Napoleon in crossing the Alps. Failure and disappointment 
 were the only results of the exi^edition, which was followed by 
 the execution of the gallant leader after his return to Cuzco. 
 
 In spite of AlmagTo's disastrous experience, a second expedition 
 was inaugurated by Pedro de Yaldivia, who jDroceeded along the 
 desert shore, instead of over the plateau, and after arriving at 
 Arica, there constructed vessels to pursue the journey. "With no 
 gxeat loss, in December, 1540, he reached the valley of the Mapocho, 
 and selecting a favorable site, on Februaiy 12, 1541, he proclaimed a 
 new city: Santiago, for Spain's patron saint, de la Nueva Estre- 
 madiira, from his native province. On the Plaza de Armas was 
 built a small chapel and a Cahildo or Municipal Council Chamber, 
 as well. 
 
 Still unsatisfied Yaldivia pursued his explorations southward, be- 
 yond the Bio-Bio River. In his absence the small garrison he had 
 left behind barely escaped destruction, being saved only by the 
 valor and boldness of the solitaiy woman in the party. Dona Ines 
 de Suarez. The Araucanians, the most powerful tribe in this sec- 
 tion, were of different caliber from the Quichuas. and long and 
 fiercely they continued the struggle against the invaders, who treated 
 them with barbarous severity. After the founding of Concepcion, 
 Imperial, Villa Kica, and Yaldivia, and the settling of the con- 
 queror himself at the town of Concepcion, the Indians under the 
 command of Lautaro, who as a servant of Yaldivia had learned
 
 THE CHILIAN COAST IGl 
 
 sonielliing of Spanish methods, attacked and defeated the Si)an- 
 iards, captunng- Valdivia and putting him to death with tortures. 
 After long-continued warfare a truce was established, with the 
 Bio-Bio Kiver as the boundaiy line, but for two hundred and tifty 
 years the contest went on for the subjugation of the natives. At last, 
 when tiie Chilians rose against 8i)ain, the Araucanians lent assist- 
 ance, and friendliness was established. As in other lands, liowever, 
 civilization of a sort proved too much for the Indians and few of 
 pure blood remain. 
 
 On the IGth of June, 1810, the movement for indei)endence be- 
 gan with the abdication of the Governor, Carrasco, on account of 
 ditticulty between himself and the Real Audiencia. September 18, 
 ISIO, the Cabildo or City Council in open session elected a Junta to 
 govern until a National Congress should be convoked, ostensibly 
 for the puri)ose of holding the dominion for King Ferdinand, de- 
 posed by Napoleon. The people regarding this as the birth of 
 their independence were filled with joy. An array subsequently 
 sent from Spain landed at Concepcion, marched northward i-e- 
 cruiting royalists, and after several engagements finally put to 
 rout the patriots, who were commanded by Bernardo O'lliggins 
 assisted by Colonel Juan Mackenna. October 16, 1S14, General 
 Osorio with the Spanish army entered Santiago and there main- 
 tained Spanish rule for three years longer. General O'lliggins 
 meanwhile lied to IMendoza in Argentina to join the army whicii was 
 being organized in that city by General San ^lartin for the ex- 
 pulsion of the Spanish power from the entire continent. Three 
 years were required for this work. In Januarj', 1S17, the in- 
 vasion of Chile from Argentina was begun by a well-drilled army 
 of 5000 men, IGOO hcn-ses, and many pack nmles. One division 
 came l)y the Usjiallata Pass, along the coach route across the 
 Cordilleras, and the one followed by Almagro almost three cen- 
 turies earlier. A second division under San ^Martin came by 
 the lower Los Patos Pass. The two divisions, having united on 
 February 12, gained a complete victory over the royalists in the 
 famous battle of Chacabuco, and February 14 entere«l Santi- 
 ago. The enthusiastic and grateful Chilians now otTered to San 
 Martin the governorship of the countiy. This unsellish patriot 
 declining the honor, an assembly, February 17. appointed General 
 O'lliggins Dictator, thus concluding the so-called Hecon(iuista or 
 Kecoiuiuest of Chile. However, tmubh's were in)t over. The 
 Viceroy of Peru sent General Osorio again to Chile. Landing at 
 Talcahuano in the s(Uith he was able to advance with his army, 
 after defeating O'lliggins, until he ai)proached Santiagct; but on 
 the plain of Maipo, April 5, 1S18, San Martin again gained a
 
 162 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 decisive victory. Mcaiiwliile on (lie anniversary of the battle of 
 Cliacabiico the Act of JniU'^eiulence was read in tlie Plaza of San- 
 tiaj^o, and the oath was taken by the leaders. The United States 
 was the first nation to recoj^nize the Republic. A navy was soon 
 formed and with the aid of Admiral Lord Cochrane, a squadron of 
 eight wai'ships and sixteen transports in 1820 carried north the 
 army of San Martin for the conquest of Peru. 
 
 In 1823 General O'Higgins was obliged to resign his Dictator- 
 ship and a period of confusion followed. In 1833 a constitution 
 was adojited. In the administration of Manuel Montt in the fifties 
 railway construction was inaugurated. In that of President Pinto 
 occurred the War of the Pacific with Peru and Bolivia, 1879-81, 
 though the treaty of peace was not signed till 1883, when the 
 province of Tarapaca was ceded to Chile, and occupation for ten 
 years was arranged for Taona and Arica. About the same time a 
 boundary treaty was concluded with Argentina, with which nation 
 Chile had been on the verge of war. Balniaceda, elected President 
 in 1886, instituted many reforms but by his arbitrary methods 
 brought on civil war. A vietoiy by the constitutional party was fol- 
 lowed by Balmaceda's suicide. 
 
 The unfortunate death of the able President Montt in 1910 was 
 succeeded by the election of the present incumbent, Ramon Barros 
 Luco. Among the prominent Chilian families (it bas been said 
 that one hundred of these govern the country), are many British 
 names, the forbears of these having married into the best Spanish 
 American families and become patriotic citizens of their adopted 
 country.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 VALPARAISO 
 
 Hotels. Royal, A. P., 12 to 25 pesos; Grand, A. P., 10-1') jusus; 
 Palace, about the same or a trifle less; Colon, G to 12 pesos. All 
 higher in summer. 
 
 Money. The Chilian peso, paper, varies in value from 17 to 25 
 cents more or less. 
 
 Chief Points of Interest. The Monument and the Government 
 Palace near the landing'; tiie business streets; Plaza Victoria and tiie 
 church facing it; the Av. Brazil with the British Monument; the 
 Naval School; the English and tiie Spanish American Cemeteries on 
 the heights, these with the Naval School reached by ascensoi-s; and 
 the suhuil) \\i\-A (Id i\I;ii'. 
 
 Valparaiso, Vale of Paradise, the largest and busiest port 
 on the Paeifie south of San Franeiseo, like many others aions 
 this coast, has no real harbor. The spacious senii-cin-ular 
 roadstead lies open to the wintry northers whieli occasionally 
 bring terrific storms. On such occasions, ships at anchor in 
 the bay to escape the fury of the waves often steam for the 
 open sea, lest they be driven ashore or be overwhelmed in the 
 deep, as has several times happened to ocean steamers. In 
 the summer there is no danger, and after the completion of 
 the breakwater designed to protect tlic ])ay from the savage 
 force of the tempestuous sea, it will lie sale at any time. Tlu' 
 great depth of the water a shoi't distance from shore renders 
 the construction dilTicnlt, I)\it satislaclory plans at length 
 were devised and in October, 1!I12, work was begun on the port 
 improvements wliieh besides the bi'eakwater !»ir) feet long 
 will include additional docks. TIkpsc in existence are sadly 
 inadeciuate fur the vast eonnnen-ial nu)Vement at this ]u)r\. 
 
 While from a business point of view the harbor at present is 
 poor, from the deck of a steamer or fiom the hills above the 
 
 1G:J
 
 Ifi4 ' TIIH SOUTir AMERICAN TOT^R 
 
 town, there is a busy and a l)eautifiil scene. Scattered over the 
 waters are hundreds of vessels of various shapes and of every 
 size, some from the farthest corners of the globe, showing 
 flags of many nations (probably none of the United States), 
 others mere lighters or rowboats to transport freight or 
 passengers from ship to shore. Around the bay, a few rods 
 back fi-om the water, rise in a semi-circle steep hills or cliffs 
 to a height of 1000 feet or more. Farther back, more lofty 
 ridges are seen, and it is said that on a clear day in the 
 far distance may be descried, in the sharp toothed ridge which 
 forms the backbone of the continent, the snow-flecked peak 
 of Aconcagua. 
 
 On the narrow strip of shore between the sea and the hills, 
 varying in width from two blocks to half a mile, is the sub- 
 stantial business section of the city ; while climbing up the 
 slopes and crowning the hilltops is most of the residence 
 portion, both the fine dwellings of the prosperous and the 
 humble homes of the poor. 
 
 The arriving steamers are as usual beset by a throng of 
 boatmen, and wary must be the tourist who is not exorbitantly 
 fleeced, unless he has a friend on board to guide, or one 
 from the city to greet him. As the Chilian peso, of somewhat 
 variable value, is generally worth less than a quarter of a 
 dollar, the tariff price is not so high as it sounds; one peso 
 for each person or considerable piece of baggage is a suitable 
 fee, though much more is likely to be demanded. 
 
 At the landing, arrangements may be made for the trans- 
 port of the heavy baggage by cart, while you go with hand 
 baggage to the hotel in a carriage; or a tram car may serve 
 you. The hotels, the Royal, Palace, and Grand, are all with- 
 in half a mile of the landing. The Royal Hotel, 65 Esmer- 
 alda street, which is sometimes full to overflowing, will be 
 found amply satisfactory. The American proprietors, i\Ir.. 
 and Miss Kehle, have made it more like a hotel in the United 
 States than are any others that I have seen on the "West Coast. 
 Located on one of the principal business streets, it aft'ords ex- 
 cellent meals in several large dining-rooms ; and handsomely 
 furnished chambers, with modern equipment including red 
 satin puffs for the beds in addition to fine blankets. The price 
 is from 12 to 15 pfsos and up according to the room. The
 
 1 f f i ii|ti«ti«itii|ii|i{iiyiu 
 
 
 VALPARAISO HARBOR
 
 VALPARAISO 165 
 
 Grand Hotel is said to afl'ortl similar acfoiiiiiiodations at 
 about tlie same j)ri('es. Tlie i'alace, a little clicapL-r, is well 
 situated ou the IMa/.a de los Bomheros, and others less pre- 
 tentious, as the Colon, 87 Esmeralda, are ealled eleau ami 
 good. 
 
 In Valparaiso, a city of nearly 200,000, it seems lo be the 
 fashion for the residents to reply, wlien asked what tliere is to 
 see, "0, nothing at all." This is by no means true, though 
 at least twice as mueh time should be devoted to Santiago. 
 First there is the large S(iuare near the landing on wliieli is 
 the handsome Casa del Gol)ierno. In the center of the i)laza 
 is a fine monument. The Country to the Heroes of the 21sl of 
 May, and at one corner near the docks is the railway station 
 to Santiago. The air seems crisp and the city more European 
 than any previously seen. 
 
 The business streets have many handsome buildings two 
 or three stories high, a few even more, looking fresh and clean, 
 since the greater part of this district was laid low by the 
 terrible earthquake of li)()6. A twelve-month of unusual 
 shrinkage, of adjustment of the earth's surfaee, and of con- 
 secpient calamity was practically coincident with this year. 
 In April 1906 occurred the catastrophe at San Francisco, Aug- 
 ust 16, the practical destruction of Valparaiso, and in Jan- 
 uary, 1907, the disaster at Kingston. Some buildings in Val- 
 paraiso withstood the shocks, but with the 'quakes and the re- 
 sulting fires little of the lower part of the city renuiined un- 
 damaged. The upper town was to a great extent uninjui-ed 
 and the shii)piiig in the bay received no liai-m. Few traces of 
 the calannty are now left, as like San Francisco the town 
 was soon rebuilt in a superior manner. AVhile slight earth- 
 ([uakes are frequent they are not fearsome, as heavy slioeks 
 are usually half a century apait. l>esi(Ies earth<piakes. \'al- 
 paraiso has experienced other calamities. Foumied in la.'je, 
 in its earlier days it was three times cai)tured and sacked by 
 pirates; in 1858, it was destroyed by tire: in ISdi;, hombarded 
 by a Spaiush fleet ; and in 1S90 it sulfered considerable injury 
 from the lialmaceda revolution. It is to be boix'd that after 
 all these vicissitudes it nuiy enjoy a peaceful existence. A 
 stroll along the prineijial streets to the ollice of the .\nier- 
 icau consul, calle lUanco, 991, to the hanking liouse of
 
 166 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 W. R. (irace, and to ga/e at tlie liandsome shop window.s is 
 the pastime of an hour or two. Between the hills and the 
 water it is iinpossihle to lose one's way. 'J'he double-decked 
 tram cars are an imposing sight, and rather curious objects 
 are the women conductors. Having heard of these before 
 arriving, I was ex])ecting to see some trim young women, with 
 possibly a coquettish eye turning at times upon some of the 
 gentlemen patrons, as occasionally happens in some of our 
 cheap restaurants ; but no ! Staid indeed are the women con- 
 ductors in Valparaiso and Santiago, and far from handsome. 
 Plainly dressed in a sort of blue uniform with white aprons, 
 they are obviously of the so-called laboring class, of rather 
 stolid appearance, perhaps the mothers of families, and 
 closely intent upon their duties. It appears that during the 
 war of '79- '81, so many young men joined the army that 
 women were drafted into this service. Performing it in a 
 satisfactory manner they continued to be so employed 
 though not to the total exclusion of men. They mount to 
 the upper story to collect fares and in Santiago swing along 
 the sides of the open cars quite in man fashion, though 
 necessarily hampered by their voluminous skirts. Manifestly 
 competent for the labor, less difficult than other duties like 
 scrubbing floors, supposed to lie more within their sphere, 
 it would seem that bifurcated garments, even knickerbockers, 
 would enable them to perform either service more easily. 
 If men and women were to exchange garments for a hundred 
 years it is conceivable that the idea as to which is the weaker 
 sex might be changed also. 
 
 A few car rides may be taken to advantage, the greater 
 if sitting above; but among the natives of the upper class 
 this is taboo, as the price is only half of that below; the 
 fares being five and ten ccntavos respectively. A gentleman 
 in Santiago remarked to me that although he preferred riding 
 outside it would never do except in the evening, when he 
 could not be recognized from the street or from the upper 
 windows of houses in passing. 
 
 Not far from the Royal Hotel is the Plaza Victoria on one 
 side of which is the Espiritu Santo Church, the most fashion- 
 able in the city, though with an ordinary exterior. A flower 
 market is passed on the way, where beautiful roses and other
 
 VALPARAISO K,7 
 
 flowers may be purchased in quantities for a single peso. The 
 general market as a matter of course is worth seeiujr, espe- 
 cially in the season of fruits, as Chile rivals California in the 
 excellence and variety of these, and surpasses it in cheapness. 
 The fruits of the Temperate Zone, ehcri-ies, peaches, apples, 
 pears, and grapes, luscious in qualily and, the)/ snij, unrivaled 
 in any part of the world, in their summer and fall tempt Hit- 
 tourist on every hand. 
 
 It is important to ascend the hills in two or three different 
 places, both for the view going up and for what is to be seen 
 at the top. The aseensors are similar to those of Cincinnati, 
 one being carried up by cable as another is coming down ; 
 but the inclines seemed steeper and one appeared rather 
 rickety. There Iiave been fatal accidents. However, — I went 
 as do others. Near the top of one of the inclines wliich is but 
 a short distance from the Hotel Royal is a cemetery where 
 chapel-like tombs and pretty head stones and monuments 
 are closely packed togetlu^r among shaded walks on the very 
 edge of the precipitous l)luff. One has here a magnificent 
 view of the city below fringing the semi-circular shore, of 
 the blue waters, alive with ships, and of the surrounding 
 hills. Through canons here and there separating the various 
 hills and bluffs, a few carriage roads wind steeply upward 
 and more footpaths, by which some pedestrians climb; but 
 most persons will prefer to save time and strength l)y taking 
 their chances in an ascensor. Perched on these steep inclines 
 are houses of the poor, while at the top are many line villas 
 occupied by native and foreign residents. Close to the 
 Chilian ceinetery on the bluff is the English burial (jrouiul 
 surrounded by a high wall, hi a far corner of this enclosure 
 is a small marble !omb on a concrete foundation wilh a marlile 
 cross above, the whole about live feet higli, in which Ameri- 
 cans will have a special interest. The inscription reads: 
 
 "In memory of the officers and seamen slain on board 
 the United States frigate Essex in this harbor in an engage- 
 ment with II. R. Majesty's frigate I'IkkIh and hrig Chi nib, 
 February 28, 1814." A list of 52 names I".. Hows and Ihc 
 statement that it was ei-ccted by oflieers ol" foui- ships nl' the 
 United Stales Navy. 
 
 This ship, the Essex, commanded by Caj)!. David Porter,
 
 168 TTIE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 after inflictinjjc imicli (laiiuifjc on Britisli property, capturing 
 860 seamen and 100 cannon, was surjjrised in this harl)or by 
 two British ships. Though disa))led by a squall she made 
 a splendid fight until more than three-fifths of the crew were 
 killed or wounded, and the ship was on fire in several places, 
 when she struck her colors. A more conspicuous monument 
 for the gallant dead might seem appropriate. 
 
 By another ascensor, a trip should be made to the Naval 
 School, which crowns a splendid height nearer the outer edge 
 of the harl)or. A fine large building, well e(piipped in the 
 best modern English fashion, stands back of a pretty garden. 
 There are good class rooms, laboratories, machine shops with 
 guns mounted as on board ship, and all essentials for a 
 thorough and practical course of study. In the rear patios 
 are athletic fields with bathing facilities. The cadets are 
 generally from the best families, and the program of study 
 is based on that of English schools; the fleet is organized on 
 the British model, and the ships are constructed in British 
 shipyards.- There is, further, a training ship for sailors, 
 where if unable to read and write they receive instruction, 
 as do soldiers in a corresponding institution in Santiago. 
 
 On the fine broad Avenue Brazil is a handsome arch with 
 the British Lion above, presented to the city by the British 
 colony here, at the Centennial in 1910. 
 
 Vina del Mar. An excursion should by all means be made 
 to this suburb ; to ]\Iiramar if time allows. The former may 
 be reached by tram or train in half an hour or so. It is 
 pleasant to go by one and return by the other. The tracks, 
 nearly parallel, pass several pretty suburbs and give several 
 glimpses of the sea beyond the harbor before reaching the 
 destination. Vina del iNlar is not only a suburb of Valparaiso 
 whither many Englishmen and others go in the afternoon for 
 sports, and where many business men of Valparaiso have 
 homes, but it is also a fashionable summer resort for the 
 wealthy residents of Santiago and other parts of Chile. It is 
 a charming place with a pretty railway station near a large 
 and attractive plaza. Many carriages stand near, in one of 
 which for a few pesos a pleasant drive may be taken around 
 the town and out to the hippodrome or race track, a mile or 
 more outside the city. Within the track enclosure, a pretty
 
 AVENIDA UJtAZIL, WITH UlilTISH MONUMENT 
 
 lti.aliil.NCl., \1NA lil-L, .\1AU
 
 VALPARAISO 160 
 
 spot surrounded by groeu hills, the foreigners have hiid 
 out a golf course, grounds for cricket, and for football. Tlie 
 place is thus visited, especially on Sundays, by many, not only 
 for the races, to which the Chilians are as devoted as the 
 Argentines, but for athletics of various kinds. The Chilian 
 horses seem very large after those of Peru, and trotting 
 is their specialty. Some of them do this so well that their 
 gentle trot is as easy as the lope or canter of most other 
 animals. 
 
 A prett}^ and commodious clubhouse faces the Plaza, and 
 near by are many charming villas of attractive architecture 
 surrounded by luxuriant vegetation of tropical and temperate 
 climes, beautiful flower beds, trees, and shrubbery. Half a 
 mile from the center of the town is a tine beach bordered by 
 jutting rock promontories. Large bathing establishments, 
 cafes for ices and tea, and splendid villas with well laid out 
 grounds recall our own shore resorts. A good pedestrian may 
 be tempted to climb over the steep enclosing hill and descend 
 on the other side to the electric ear track for his return to 
 the city. The Grand Hotel with beautiful grounds is the 
 leading- hostelry of the place. 
 
 Miramar is a small but popular l)athing resort in the op- 
 posite direction from Valparaiso, reached by electric cars; but 
 the bathing is here more dangerous, as not far from shore 
 the bottom drops suddenly to a great depth. 
 
 From Valparaiso to Santiago by rail is a ride of 3i/o or 
 4 hours by express trains and al)Out two more by accommo- 
 dation. The price of tickets for the express is 12.80 pesos, 
 4 extra for seat in Pullman ; 8.50 pesos by slower train. It 
 is a pleasant ride; for a few miles near the shore, passing Vina 
 del Mar, then east through the Coast Kange to the Central 
 Plain, at Llai Llai leaving the Aiidim' IJjiilw.iy to turn south- 
 ward to Santiago.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 SANTIAGO 
 
 Hotels. Oddo, E. P., 7 to 30 pesos; Grand, A. P., 15 to 30 
 pesos; Unneneta Palace, about the same; otliers at lower prices. 
 
 Chief Points of Interest. Plaza de Annas; Cathedral and other 
 buildings around; the Capitol; the Moneda; the Alameda; Parque 
 Cousino; most important, Santa Lucia Hill and the Cemetery; the 
 Art Gallery. 
 
 Santiago, the capital and largest city of Chile, the third 
 or fourth in size in South America, considered by some trav- 
 e lers to have the most beaut iful location of any capital in 
 the worl d except Rio de Janeiro, is situatea on tne river 
 
 ~]\Iapocho in the long central valley of Chile, at an elevation 
 
 __of2000_Je£l__ Founded by the doughty warrior and Spanish 
 invader, friend and almost counterpart of Francisco Pizarro, 
 Pedro de Valdivia, it was by him planned and laid out in 
 1541 after he had first built a fort on Santa Lucia hill, an 
 excellent site for the purpose, recalling the ancient Greek 
 Acropolis or some of the mediajval strongholds. On account 
 of the too great dispersion of the invaders, the settlement for 
 some years had a hard struggle for existence, but during its 
 century of independence it has grown rapidly. Its popuh i- 
 
 ^ tion, now approaching 400,000. is ten times as great as when 
 independence was declared in 1810. 
 
 ^he site is indisputably one of remarkable beauty anrlj gjc- 
 turpsqup pbnvm^ Avithou t any interference with the conven- 
 ience of a large city. The hills mimd on the edge of the 
 
 ""city, rising like" siiTaTTislands abruptly from the plain, do not 
 preclude long level streets, yet form a peculiar and admirable 
 embellishment, while east and west, the mountains of the 
 Great Cordillera and of the Coast Range, which a few miles 
 
 170
 
 SANTIAGO 171 
 
 away rise as lofty ramparts to the ethereal blue, are an ever 
 sublime and noble contrast to the verdant smiling plain. 
 
 The climate of Santiago, which at 33° S. has about the 
 same latitude as Charleston and San Diego N., is considered 
 excellent; thougli tlie three winter months, in dwellings desti- 
 tute of heating apparatus, seem rather cool indoors to resi- 
 dents of the United States. In the summer, though not 
 extremely hot, it is very dusty, so that wealthy residents at 
 this season escape to Vina del ]\Iar or other seashore resorts, 
 to the bejuitiful lake region, to the springs and bntlis among 
 the mountains, or even to the fjords in the distant south. 
 An amusing mot of a German is related by one who did not 
 seem to appreciate it. "The climate of Santiago is good but 
 it is very unhealthy." And both statements have been quite 
 true, the latter inexcusably so, resulting from the fact that 
 ordinary sanitary measures have been neglected. Tiie med- 
 ical congress in 1911 was held in the midst of an epidemic 
 of smalli)OX. There has been a Avoeful lack of sewerage. 
 But happily the officials have at last come to realize the 
 importance of sanitation, an adequate system of sewerage is 
 now installed, and doubtless other deficiencies will soon be 
 remedied. 
 
 From the fine large railway station on the outskirts of the 
 city, a carriage or tram car may be taken to one of the hotels 
 near the center, a mile or more distant. To secure accom- 
 modations at the Oddu, long regarded as the leading hotel 
 of Santiago, it is often necessary to engage rooms in advance, 
 as both main building and annexes are generally crowded. 
 The Oddo, near the Plaza de Armas, on one of the principal 
 .streets, Ahumada, 327, the annexes on another at riglit angles 
 with this, Iluerfanos, 97(! and 1012, no longer supply jneals. 
 The Grand Hotel, now called the best, is close by, Iluerfanos 
 1164. Another hotel approximating this is the I'mu-neta 
 Palace. Prices at these two are likely to be L") or 20 prsos 
 a day, with morning colTee, one ixso, as an exira. Other 
 hotels of more modest i)riee and aeeoinmodations are the 
 Espanola, the Majestic, the Milan, and the .Melossi. Persons 
 rooming at the Oddo take their meals generally at the San- 
 tiago Kestaui-ant on lliirrianos, the best in the city.
 
 172 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 At the Oddo Hotel, a surprising and pleasant custom in 
 1911 was that morning and evening the newspapers, El Mer- 
 curio and Las Ultimas Nolicias, were thrust under the door 
 of my room, the first in time to enjoy with my morning coffee. 
 "Whether this was by the courtesy of the hotel proprietor or 
 the newspaper management (both papers having the same 
 publishers) I am unable to state. Rather expecting to find 
 them charged on my bill, I was agreeably disappointed that 
 they were not. To the tourist coming down the West Coast 
 the newspapers of Chile are a surprise. Those of Peru and 
 Bolivia though often with able editorials are small, and con- 
 tain but a modicum of foreign news, especially of the United 
 States ; and the little there is from our own country is largely 
 gossip. But in Chile, as on the East Coast, it is different. 
 The Mercurio is a newspaper of world-wide reputation and 
 of advanced age, exceeded by few in the United States. 
 Originally founded in Valparaiso in 1827, a Santiago edition 
 was started in 1900, the two papers now being published with 
 the same editorials, cables, and general news, though differing 
 in local matters. The proprietor is ]\Er, Agustin Edwards, 
 a member of a wealthy banking house and a large owner and 
 president of the Compaiiia Sud-Americana de Vapores. The 
 buildings in which they are housed, and the contents of these 
 papers are superior to many of those in larger cities of the 
 United States. Besides good quarters for editors, reporters, 
 and other employees, there are dining, reception, and assem- 
 bly rooms, bed and bath rooms, and other features not found 
 in our establishments. The editors are cultivated, well in- 
 formed gentlemen, whose well written editorials on the chief 
 topics of the day are read and become subjects of daily con- 
 versation among men of the upper class. Distinguished 
 strangers are interviewed, social life receives attention, com- 
 mercial matters, sport, science, and literature all have their 
 place. Las Ultimas Notichs, an evening paper with the same 
 publishers, is of lighter character. The Diario Ilustrado is 
 the morning paper now having the largest circulation. Be- 
 sides other good though less known dailies, Santiago has illus- 
 trated weeklies, the Zigzag, and Siicesos, containing a record 
 in pictures of the week's happenings, cartoons and photo- 
 graphs of local events and of world-wide interest. These
 
 SANTIAGO 173 
 
 are in compact magazine form of slightly less size and thick- 
 ness than our monthlies. 
 
 Sight-seeing in Santiago naturally begins with ihf I'ln-Hj 
 the center of which is beautitied by palm, orange, and lir 
 trees, grass, fountains, and flower beds, among which are 
 broad walks and benches. From the usual band stand Sun- 
 day, Thursday, and Saturday evenings concerts of good clas- 
 sical and operatic music are given, in summer from eight to 
 ten p. m., in winter from six to seven. In the center of the 
 Plaza is a statue by a famous Italian sculptor, Fagazarro, 
 which represents Liberty breaking the chains of (Spanish) 
 Slavery. The four crocodiles beneath with their mouths open 
 indicate that this was originally intended for a fountain. 
 
 Around the Plaza are buildings of importance; on the west 
 side, the (JMU^ii-tiul, originally constructed of stone on the site 
 which Valdivia appointed for the first church to be erected 
 in Chile. If the outside is not remarkable the interior is 
 vast and imposing. On each side of the nave are large square 
 pillars with images of Saints and Apostles. In the usual side 
 chapels are various paintings by old masters and other ob- 
 jects of interest; a reclining life-size figure of San Francisco 
 de Xavier, carved from the trunk of a pear tree, is considered 
 of high artistic merit. This work was found in the monastery 
 of the Jesuits when that Order was expelled from Chile in 
 1776. Another chapel on the same side, that of Santo Sac- 
 ramento, contains a monstrance and altar of beautifully 
 wrought silver more than two hundred years old, and also an 
 anticjue, large swinging silver lamp. The choir stalls in the 
 chancel are as usual of carved wood, also the thi-oue of the 
 Archbishop. In the sacristy is a large oil painting of The 
 Last Supper, of the old Spanish school, and a crystal chande- 
 lier which hung in a room where the first Congress assembled, 
 now the National Library. In the Calhedi-al are buried the 
 three archbishops, the first, Sefior Vicuna Larrain, conse- 
 crated in 1841. The tomb of the second is noteworthy, elab- 
 orately carved of Carrara marble, with fluted columns and 
 trailing vines, and the reclining figure of the archbishop in 
 his stately robes. In front crouches a bronze lion. The 
 stained glass windows deserve attention. The particularly 
 flne oi'gan is said to l)e c<|ual in tone to tliat in St. Paul's,
 
 ^ 
 
 174 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 London. Jt came here by accident, being on its way to 
 Australia in a ship which was wrecked in the Straits of Ma- 
 gelhin. Among the salvage was the organ which, purchased 
 at a bargain, was brought to Santiago. The Cathedral should 
 be visited at the earliest opportunity, as much of the time 
 it is closed. Also it is to be observed that there is a strict rule 
 here, rigidly enforced, against wearing hats into the churches. 
 Unless a lady does not mind removing hers, it is well to devote 
 a morning to the churches, wearing a lace scarf or veil over 
 the head and thus having no bother. Next to the Cathedral 
 is the Palace of the Archbishop. 
 
 On the north side of the Plaza at the corner next to the 
 Cathedral is the Post Office, a modern well equipped struc- 
 ture, the telegraph office, the Palace of the Provincial Gov- 
 ernor, and the IMunicipal Building, the front of which is 
 illuminated on national holidays. On the east side is the 
 Portal McClure, back of which are many shops. Under the 
 portal are many venders, as also on the south side of the 
 Plaza under the Portal Fernandez Concha, where especially 
 are fruit aiid flower stalls: beautiful roses, jasmine, helio- 
 trope, etc., grapes, figs, paltas, chirimoias and other fruits, 
 according to the season. 
 /^ Santiago is a city generally pleasing to tourists, even de- 
 jlightful, as one traveler asserts, who calls it the best place 
 ^ in South America for residence the whole year around and 
 \ the only one attractive from a scenic, climatic and social 
 \ point of view. This very critical writer who seems to have 
 a special '^ grouch" against Rio de Janeiro, after seeing Lima 
 revises his opinion to a degree, then declaring that only 
 Buenos Aires, Santiago, and Lima appear desirable places 
 to live in and of the three he rather prefers Lima. Per 
 contra, another great traveler who stayed in Lima not long 
 enough reall.y to see it, from his superficial view thought it 
 much over-rated, this showing, with a possible difference in 
 taste, the error of a too hasty judgment. 
 
 But not to make undue comparisons, Santiago is a charm- 
 ing city, much larger, obviousl.v, and more modern and 
 European than cosy and courtly Lima, or strange and remote 
 La Paz. Its attractions will surprise many and all will be 
 loath to leave.
 
 SANTIAGO 175 
 
 It has a fine system of electric cars with a device which in 
 our cities might be adopted to very gi'eat advantage. Tlie 
 ears of the various routes, in addition to the names of streets 
 or destinations which they bear, are all numbered, with figures 
 at the top large enough to l)e visible for a block or two. On 
 the caile Ahumada you will see cars numbered 15, 17, 20, 
 24, etc. Should you wish to go to the Park, you may take 
 No. 19 on Iluerfanos. The hotel people or any resident will 
 tell you what cars you may take and where, for any given 
 point, or you will find a complete list in Scott's riuiiie Hook. 
 
 After seeing the Plaza, one may take No. 19 there for 
 Parque Cousino, or a cab or automobile for a drive al)out 
 the city. In 1911 the paving on many streets was so rough 
 that the ears were preferred by many; now, however, the 
 streets in the central part of the city are all in fine condi- 
 tion. 
 
 The business quarter of the city is chiefly between the 
 Plaza and the Alameda, extending also to the west. All of 
 these streets are rather narrow with a single car track on 
 one side, the cars as in Lima going by one route and returning 
 by another to the starting point. In this section are many 
 excellent shops of all kinds, the hotels, banks, and tlie gov- 
 ernment buildings. Of the last tlie Capitol is naturally the 
 finest, occupying a whole square a little west of the Cathedral. 
 On two sides of this large handsome structure are beautifully 
 kept gardens, with magnolias, heliotrope, and other flowers. 
 In the garden on the east fi-ont is a bauiliful niarbh tnadonna 
 in an attitude of mourning or prayer, with four kneeling an- 
 gels at her feet. An inscription records that this is a memo- 
 rial to the victims of the fire, December 8, 1868, witness of the 
 undying love and grief of the ]>eople ten years hiler. The 
 church of the Jesuits, then consumed witli 2000 victims, for- 
 merly stood on this spot. 
 
 Of the four entrances, this on the east is to the Cdmaia 
 de Diputados above, tliat on the west to the Camara dc S( n- 
 adores. Both Chambers are liUe small tlieaters with four rows 
 of seats raised one above another, each with a small table 
 and writing material in front. There is a high carved dais 
 for the President. A dome of colored glass forms the roof. 
 In the Senatorial Cham])er is a painting by Valenzuela Llanos
 
 17G THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 representing? the first Congress, July 4, 1811, held in the..Na- 
 ti»mt4— X d.l>r;iry near })y. The building has wide marble 
 staircases, rooms for the President, for secretaries, some de- 
 signed for discussion and conversation; also a large hand- 
 some Congress Hall where the President reads his message at 
 the same tnue to both Houses, and to the Diplomats. To 
 the two galleries of the hall, friends are admitted by ticket 
 for the opening of Congress, an impressive and ceremonious 
 occasion. This building is heated by steam pipes, a wonder- 
 ful innovation, making it comfortable even to Americans. 
 
 The official residence of the President is in the Palacio de 
 la3loncda which contains also his offices and thqsii-ef-the 
 MimslerS-- of the Interior, Finance, and Foreign Relations, 
 as well as the quarters of the Mint. This building, between 
 the streets Morande and Teatinos, faces the Plaza de la 
 Moncda, which is ornamented with fountains and flower beds, 
 and a statue of an able Minister, Don Diego Portales, noted 
 for his uprightness. The Palacio with its two large patios 
 occupies an entire square. By a curious mistake plans de- 
 signed for a Government House in ]\Iexico City were sent 
 here, and so pleased the Chilians that they decided to use 
 them. Opposite the Palace on the north side of the Plaza 
 is the Mmistrij of War and Marine. On the east side of the 
 Palace on ]\Iorande street, facing the enirance to the ^lint, is 
 the Ministry of Public Works. On the Plaza Moneda band 
 concerts occur occasionally. 
 
 The most notable street in the city is the Ayenida de las 
 Delicias, commonly_£a lled the Alameda, a beautiful park-like 
 ^^prQmenacre~ 600 feet _jyper extend ing^ urjiyjes^JxPfflH^ey^dZ. 
 tiie_hill_parl?, Santa Lucia, to tlie" Central Railway Station. 
 The UniteTBlaTes^ETribassjTS^located in a handsome building 
 on the Alameda at 1602. The first floor is used for the 
 offices; the residence is above. Formerly the Alameda was 
 the river bed of the IMapocho, now farther to the north. The 
 transformation was due to General O'Higgins. The central 
 parkway has four rows of trees, oaks, elms, acacias; little 
 canals of running water and many monuments of soldiers, 
 statesmen, and scientists of Chile. Next to the parkway on 
 each side are electric car tracks, and beyond, broad boule- 
 vards for carriages, bordered by wide sidewalks and many
 
 SANTIAGO 177 
 
 handsome residences. Near the ealle Ahumada stands 
 a monuiuent to the brothers, ^Miguel Luis and Gregorio 
 Victor AmunJitegni, the elder, a patriot of marked dis- 
 tinction in civil life who served as Minister under several 
 administrations. A remarkable spi'akcr among a people 
 distinguished for their oratory, he died in 1888, greatly 
 mourned. 
 
 Proceeding down the Avenue one passes a bust of Abate 
 Molina, a noted naturalist and author of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury. A Natural History of the Country of Cliile was his 
 chief work. There follows a bust of Jose [Miguel Infante, 
 a great i)liilantbropist who was one of the foremost in the 
 struggle for independence. 
 
 Next is the most striking of the memorials in the Alameda, 
 a bronze statue of General Bernardo O'lliggins on horse- 
 back, represented as on his famous retreat from Kancagua. 
 Bernardo, born in Chilian, Chile, and educated in England, 
 was the son of an Irishman Ambrose O'lliggins who after 
 living some time in Spain settled in Chile, where he was made 
 Governor in 1778. Bei-nardo entering the "army in 181."} l)e- 
 came commander, and as i)reviously related took part in most 
 of the revolutionaiy struggles, later becoming Supreme Dic- 
 tator. In spite of an excellent administration, after a few 
 years he was requested to resign, whieh he promptly and 
 patriotically did, then withdrawing to Peru. Some years 
 later, influenced by President Bulnes, the Chilians tardily 
 recalled the disinterested patriot and were preparing to re- 
 ceive him with due honor when, as about to set out on his 
 return, in 1845 he died. In 1868 his remains were brought 
 back by a Connnission of the Government and inteii-ed in 
 the General Cemetery. 
 
 A little farther, on tlie left, stiiiids a life si/e figure of 
 Carrera, Jose ^liguel: the most noted of three brotliei's, 
 ardent patriots in tlie struggle for independence, but of mis- 
 directed zeal; ill! three were execuli-d in Mendo/a i)y the Ar- 
 gentines, Jose, the last, without a trial, Sept. 4, 1821. The 
 bodies of tlie three were by order of C!ongre.ss brought in 1S2H 
 to Santiago and buried in the Compjifiia Church. 
 
 Some distiinci^ beyond is the monument of another general 
 and tlictator, Don IJanu'iu Freire, also distinguishetl in the
 
 178 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 "War of Independence and called by O'Higgins the bravest of 
 the brave. Later engaging in civil war and being defeated 
 in the battle of Lircai in 1830, he too went to Peru, but re- 
 turned before his death in 1853. 
 
 The next monument, between calles San Martin and Manuel 
 Rodriguez, is to the great hero who is honored in every city, 
 General San ]\Iartin, sometimes called the Hannibal of the 
 Andes. Though receiving scant honor in his later life, after 
 his death in 1850 his memory was cherished. This bronze 
 equestrian statue, erected by public subscription in 1863, 
 represents the hero holding a flag which is surmounted by 
 a small figure of Liberty. 
 
 Beyond this point, the Alameda is still wider, with^ flower 
 beds and shrubs beautifying the central promenade. On the 
 right is a statue to the grandson of an Irishman, Don Ben- 
 jamin Vicuiia Mackenna, a distinguished historian who initi- 
 ated many important works for the improvement of the city: 
 the enclosing with stone embankment the Mapocho River, the 
 adornment of Santa Lucia, and the idea of encircling the 
 city by a belt of trees to prevent straggling and undue ex- 
 tension. His death occurred in 1889. 
 
 Between the streets Ejercito and Almirante Barroso is a 
 statue unusual if not unique in character, being erected by 
 the citizens of Santiago in honor of the city of Buenos Aires. 
 The last monument is an obelisk to the memory of four 
 writers of the Revolutionary period.
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 SANTIAGO— CONTINUED 
 
 In all Spanish Aiuerican coimtriL'S tlie parks are au im- 
 portant feature. In some respects the most beautiful, and one 
 absolutely unique in character, is that of Santa Lucia, which, 
 however highly praised, is almost certain to surpass expecta- 
 tion. The last of a row of detached hills, it made in the 
 early days a splendid stronghold against the Indians. When 
 no longer needed as a fort it became a quarry, then a burial 
 ground for Jews, infidels, and Protestants, whose ])ones 
 would have defiled the consecrated ground of the ('atliolic 
 Cemetery. But in 1872 these were removed to the new Prot- 
 estant Cemetery by the side of that occupied by the faithful, 
 and the hill was converted into a wonderrully beautiful park. 
 About three-quarters of a mile southeast of the Plaza de 
 Armas, it is a pleasant walk, or it may be reached by several 
 lines of cars. Covering a surface of six or seven acres it 
 rises in irregular, jagged, sometimes perpendicular walls, 
 gradually narrowing to a pavilion-covered summit 400 feet 
 above, whence on a clear day, and especially at sunset, there 
 is an enchanting view. The city is spread out below, distinct 
 in every feature, surrounded by the broad expanse of fertile 
 plain 40 miles long and 18 wide, fringed by ranges of steep 
 hills and mountains, the latter on the east snow-crowni-d and 
 forming a splendid rampart 15,000 feet tall. Aconcagua, 
 visible from the sea and from Valparaiso, is unseen here on 
 account of the nearer approach to the lower peaks in front, 
 behind which it disappears from view. As often as time 
 permits will those who delight in nature's beauty climb this 
 hill (splendid exercise, too) to see the sunset glow on the snow- 
 capped mountains, especially when a slightly clouded .sky 
 gives assurance of lovi-ly hues and tlie certainty of a truly 
 enchanting scene. 
 
 Almost as beautiful to look at as to lnok fi-om is this Cerro 
 
 17!t
 
 180 TTTE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 which natural and artificial charms render unique among all 
 cities. Embellished by public and private munificence, 
 especially by Benjamin Mackenna, the hill is a mass of green 
 and blossoms, luxuriant graceful vines, shi'ubs, and trees, 
 among which are glimpses of stairs and roadways, rock cliffs 
 and walls, towers and l)attlements, chapels and monuments, 
 the whole a combination of exceeding loveliness. 
 
 The most imposing entrance to this hill i)ark is from the 
 Plaza Vicuiia IMackenna near the Alameda, where stands a 
 recently erected statue of the gentleman, a fine bronze figure, 
 at its foot a seated Fame holding in her hand a wreath of 
 laurel. Entering the carriage drive (fee 10 centavos for a 
 pedestrian, 40 centavos for a carriage) a large brass i)late may 
 be noticed, a memorial to Mackenna, here placed by the city. 
 On a great boulder back of this is a bronze Flora or JMel- 
 pomene with inscription giving the date of the inauguration 
 of the Park, Sept. 17, 1874. On the other side of the boulder 
 is inscribed Huelen, the ancient Indian name for the hill, 
 signifying misfortune or sorrow, a curious name for so superb 
 a feature of the landscape. A little farther are two bronze 
 lions, copies of the famous ones at Florence. Beyond the next 
 corner of the winding road is the foundation stone of an old 
 Spanish bridge formerly stretching to the inscribed boulder. 
 Built in 1787 it was destroyed in 1888. Halfway up the hill 
 is a small door in a perpendicular rock wall, the entrance to 
 the Seismological Observatory, where record is made of the 
 numerous 'quakes, and of the observations conducted by M. le 
 Conde de IMontessus Ballores. A little higher the carriage 
 road ends on a wide terrace. Here is a moving picture thea- 
 ter well patronized in summer, as is a restaurant not far 
 distant, where an orchestra discourses sweet music. At the 
 left of the road is a slab commemorating the removal of the 
 bones of the heretics once buried here. The inscription reads : 
 "In memory of those exiled from Heaven and Earth who in 
 this place lay buried for half a century, 1820-1872." 
 
 Beyond one must proceed on foot. On attaining the sum- 
 mit, having viewed with admiration the lovel}'' prospect, one 
 may notice close at hand, a little below, a castellated gateway, 
 above which is an ancient Spanish escutcheon here found bur- 
 ied. From the gateway a narrow flight of steps leads to
 
 I'ALALh Ul' IIM, AHI.-< 
 
 ENTllANCK TO CKUKO, SANTA LUCIA
 
 SANTIAGO 181 
 
 a small chapel where Benj. ]\Iackenna is interred and where 
 services are held on the anniversary of his death. Looking 
 over the parapet one may see below the remnants of an old 
 gateway surmounted by two small Spanish guns. A little 
 farther down is a monument to the first ardibishop of San- 
 tiago. The statue of Pedro de Valdivia, on tlie spot where 
 he built his fort, deserves especial heed. The inscription 
 reads: "The valiant Captain of Estremadura, first Governor 
 of Chile, who in this very spot encamped his band of 1;jO 
 conquerors, Dec. 13, 1540. Giving to these rocks the name 
 of Santa Lucia and forming of them a bastion he planned 
 and founded the city of Santiago, Feb. 12, 1541." To see 
 all the points of beauty and interest one nuist ramble on 
 foot by the pretty paths leading in every direction to charm- 
 ing nooks or delightful outlooks. At noon a cannon at the 
 summit of the hill is daily discharged by electricity from the 
 Observatory in the Quinta Normal on the other side of the 
 city. A second and less pictui'esque entrance to the Park, 
 affording a more gradual ascent is well enough to leave by, 
 but is not a suitable introduction to this genuine faiiy land. 
 Very different, and more like any other, is tlie I'anjuc 
 Cousino several miles distant. To see tiiis at its best, one 
 should go in carriage or auto together with the fashionables, 
 between the hours of 5 and 7.30 p. m., when, particularly in 
 the months September to December inclusive, it is tiironged 
 with fine horses and carriages, bearing the beauty and the fash- 
 ion of Santiago. Woods, pleasant walUs, well kept gardens, 
 beautiful shrubs, weeping willows drooping over a pretty 
 lake, adorn the park; a good restaurant pi'ovides ahninrzo, 
 afternoon tea, and dinner, tlie latter at four lusos, well pat- 
 ronized and usually accompanied by iiuisic. 'IMicre ai'c clieap 
 cafes, merry-go-rounds, and stands for dancing, whci-e on Sun- 
 day may be seen the peculiar national dance of the Indians, 
 La Cucca, where the couples face each other, hamlUcrchicr in 
 hand, and dance with swaying gestures. In suiinner a l)io- 
 graph is usi,ially in opciatinn antl twice a week a military band 
 plays from 9 to 11 p. m., when the park is often ci-owded. 
 Near the entrance is a large open gra.ss plot with a pavilion 
 in the center, where a Military Ixeview takes place Sept. ID. 
 Bicycle races and football games are sj>orts of the youthful
 
 182 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Chilians, who t;ike more kindly to alhh'lics than the young 
 men of some other countries. A lawn tennis club also is 
 found here. The electric cars numbered 19 come to the 
 restaurant in the park, number 18 to the gate only. 
 
 This Park was i)rescnted to the city by the famous Sefiora 
 Isadora Cousifio, who was the ricliest woman in Chile before 
 her marriage to the richest man in the country. He, dying, 
 left all his property to her, as it was said that she had ad- 
 ministered her estate better than he had his. The Senora, 
 now deceased, being worth many millions in mines, railroads, 
 steamships, cattle, and real estate, was a woman of so lavish 
 expenditures as to cause much gossip even in Europe. Her 
 residence in Santiago, of the Ionic order of architecture, is 
 one of the finest in South America. It was decorated by the 
 French artists who adorned the Paris Opera House. Her 
 magnificent palace at Lota, unfortunately incomplete, would 
 undoubtedly surpass anything at Newport. Outside San- 
 tiago she had an immense hacienda extending to the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Another large park of different character, at the west of the 
 town, reached by Car No. 2 from the Plaza de Armas, is called 
 the Quint a Normal: a particularly desirable place for a drive, 
 as the buildings here are at a considerable distance apart. 
 The fine trees in this section, the green fields of the Agricul- 
 tural College, and the Botanical Garden are a pleasure to 
 see. Some persons may be interested, after driving about, to 
 visit the Agricultural College, the Meteorological Station, and 
 the Biding School, all located in the Quinta. The Col- 
 lege established in 1845 by President Bulnes has been of much 
 benefit. A cattle show is held here annualh". The Botanical 
 Garden, though not large, deserves a visit. It has some fine 
 specimens of the Victoria Regia and other aquatic plants, 
 with a nice old German in charge. Apart from this garden 
 is a nursery w^here flowers, shrubs, and plants of great variety 
 are grown for the stocking of public gardens and parks. 
 The Zoological Garden in this quarter does not amount to 
 much beyond presenting man}' natives of Chile; condors, 
 eagles, vultures, with others, in an aviary of Chilian birds; 
 and domestic animals including some fine fowls. There are 
 a few bears and monkeys.
 
 SANTIAGO 183 
 
 The Natural Tlisiorij Museum, also in this Quinta (north 
 side), contains a very coniph-te eullei-tiou of Chilian birds, 
 fishes, insects, and plants, made chiefiy by a celebrated Ger- 
 man naturalist. Dr. Otto Philippi. Another section of greater 
 interest to many, contains Indian nniiimiics, specimens of pot- 
 tery, weapons, and relics of colonial days. In l!)ll tiie 
 ]\Iiiseum was open Sundays and Thursdays from K) a. m. to 
 5 p. m., but was expected later to be open daily. A good 
 restaurant pleasantly situated and well patroni/cd is opposite 
 the calle Catedral not far from the ^luseum. An entire day 
 is not too much to devote to seeing the C^uinta by persons with 
 taste for these matters, in which case the restaurant would be 
 serviceable. The School of Arts and Trades for the ti-aining 
 of mecluinics and tradesmen is located on the south side of 
 the Quinta not far from the Central Station. 
 
 Beyond the Parque Cousino is the Club IHpico or race 
 course on the outskirts of the city, with fine views of the Coast 
 Cordilleras and the Andes. Sunday afternoons and feast 
 days races are held beginning at 1.30, but most persons do not 
 arrive until four. From August to the end of December the 
 whole city, meaning of course Society, is said weekly to as- 
 semble there. In the Diez y ocho week, from the 17th to the 
 20th of September, it is difficult to get near the Pavilion. 
 There is a special enclosure for members, and behind the 
 Pavilion are little gardens where people go to take tea and 
 meet their friends. Tickets, three 2)fso.s to the pavilion, five 
 more to enter the paddock, may be l)ought after 7 p. m. Sat- 
 urdays at the Cigarria La France, Portal Fernandez Concha, 
 18; in the Centro Ilipico, Pasaje Bahnaceda, an arcade run- 
 ning from Iluerfanos to the Plaza; or at the entrance of the 
 enclosure. Races on Saturday, frcipicntcd moi-c by spoiiiiig 
 men than by Society, are at the Jlipodromo on tiic mtrth side 
 of the river. 
 
 Along the bank of the IMapocho is aiidlhcr \r.\vk. long and 
 narrow, called the Forrsfal, which with the criihankiiicnt and 
 l)ridges forms a vci-y i)rctty section of the city. At one end, 
 in the Plaza Italia or Colon, is a monument presented to the 
 city by the Italian colonists as a centenary gift, ;inil on the 
 opposite side of the beautiful Vahirr of Arts, in tlie IMaza 
 France, is one similarly presented by the Fn'nch colony. The
 
 184 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Palacio de Bellas Aries has a great Statuary Hall with some 
 fine copies aud the best original work of native Chilians. 
 Nine spacious rooms contain a collection of paintings, includ- 
 ing some originals of old masters and many by modern Chilian 
 artists. The arrangement of the building is excellent and the 
 whole is a great credit to the city. A smaller park is the 
 Plaza de Montt-Varas in the calle Compaiiia between Bandera 
 and Morande, on one side of which is the fine new Palace of 
 Justice occupying a whole block. In the park is a statue of 
 a scholar, a native of Venezuela, Don Andres Bello, a seated 
 figure by Don Nicanor Plaza. Bello, 1789-1865, was so highly 
 regarded by the Chilians that they pronounced him by works 
 and public services a true Chilian, and by a special law of 
 Congress declared him a citizen. Another statue is of two 
 friends from college days, Don Manuel ^lontt, ten years Presi- 
 dent of Chile, and Don Antonio Varas, who worked together 
 to promote the welfare of the country. 
 
 Housed in the old Congress Hall on Catedral street is the 
 National Library which, with many books, contains a valuable 
 collection of historical documents, some of these, spoils brought 
 from Lima, and others, their own colonial archives : a place 
 of much interest to the scholar and antiquarian. 
 
 The Market, seldom a show place in cities of the United 
 States, everywhere in South America is an object of interest. 
 Here it was one of the benefactions of Benj. ]\Iackenna. Best 
 seen early Sunday morning, it may be reached by following 
 the 21st of j\Iay street from the northeast corner of the Plaza. 
 Besides the usual and «)iusual profusion of fruits, vegetables, 
 flowers, etc., may here be found tiny baskets made by nuns, 
 and little jugs of earthenware and mates, some extremely 
 minute. Another market on the north side of the river is 
 especially for vegetables. 
 
 A visit to the Municipal Theater or Opera House should 
 not be omitted. Erected as long ago as 1873, it probably 
 surpasses anything of the kind in the United States, certainly 
 presenting a finer exterior. An imposing entrance hall has 
 Avide staircases leading to the upper row of boxes. The 
 Presidential box is large and elegantly furnished with recep- 
 tion rooms, etc., at the back, and a box for his lady guests 
 below. There is a large foyer and refreshment rooms, and
 
 SANTIAGO 185 
 
 there are seats for an audience of 4000. The opera season, 
 though short, is brilliant, \vith a company every year brought 
 from Italy for a month or more. Society is prt'scnt in full 
 force in immaculate evening dress, gorgeous j^'owns, and 
 sparkling jewels, a spectacle of beauty, it is said, equaling 
 that in any opera house of the ^vorld. 
 
 Santiago has many beautiful homes and pleasing residences, 
 though less in the pure Spanish style than in Peru : fewer 
 wide doorways admitting horsemen, and apparently smaller 
 patios, of which one has but a rare glimpse. Among notice- 
 ably fine residences are the Cousino on Diez y ocho, the £"(7- 
 wards on Catedral, corner ]\Iorande, the Unncncta, ]\Ifinjitas 
 street; on the Alameda, the Concha y Toro between Brazil and 
 San ]\Iiguel, the Ramon Valdcz between 18 and Castro, and 
 the Quinta Meiggs between Republica and Espana, this hav- 
 ing fifty or more rooms with elaborate furnishings. 
 
 An excursion which may be made by carriage, or by a good 
 walker on foot, is to the top of Cerro San Cristobal, 900 feet 
 above the city. A more superb view than from Santa Lucia 
 is here afforded. At tliis point of vantage is an Ohs( rvatonj, 
 a branch of the noted Lick Observatory of California. It is 
 in charge of an American, Dr. ^loore, and was established by 
 the late D. 0. ]\Iills. Lower down on a prominent bluff is a 
 colossal Image of tJie Virgin with arms outstretched towards 
 the city as if in blessing. The pedestal contains a small 
 chapel in which services are held December 8, the anniver- 
 sary of her festival. On this night the statue, which with its 
 pedestal is 70 feet high, is illuminated so as to be visible to 
 the whole city. It is said to have been erected by women as a 
 token of gratitude for their preservation from the eartlupuike, 
 and also to celebrate the jubilee of the declaration of the 
 Immaculate Conception. 
 
 The most important featui-e of the city to be visited, aside 
 from Santa Lucia, is, — the Cemetery. Let no one be surprised 
 and say that he does not care to visit siieh places. There are 
 other cathedrals, plazas, public buildings, etc., but this again 
 is unique and in many respects the most beautiful resting 
 place for the dead that I have seen in any land; especially in 
 November, the month of roses. A French lady resident, who 
 did not find much else to please her, was most enthusiastic
 
 186 T\\\<] SOUTH AMEniCAN TOUR 
 
 over this. It may be reached by Car No. 8 from the PUiza 
 de Armas. In front of the cemetery is a semi-cireular plaza 
 with a colonnade. The gateway is surmounted by a lofty 
 dome, which bears a fine colossal group of statuary, Adam and 
 Eve mourning the death of Abel. The whole effect is im- 
 posing. In the corridors of the entrance may be noticed the 
 painted ceilings, and passing within one will observe a stately 
 chapel where masses are said for the repose of the dear de- 
 parted. Here in truth is a city of the dead, with streets laid 
 out at right angles, many of these lined with beautiful houses, 
 i-ows and rows of chapel-like tombs. In other places are 
 statues, columns, and memorials in various forms. Some of 
 the avenues are shaded by orange trees, magnolias, and the 
 Jacaranda or Brazilian rosewood ; others have the tall, stately, 
 and more gloomy cypress; but when the roses blossom there is 
 such a wealth of these that there is no gloom anywhere. They 
 are of various kinds and colors, but most numerous, genuine 
 large white roses wdiich grow in great vines sometimes on 
 trees to a height of thirty feet, or over the tombs, forming the 
 most lovely framework imaginable. At the festival of All 
 Saints, November 1, the sight is unequaled in am^ part of the 
 world, as here this is at the height of the rose season, when 
 there is also a profusion of other flowers. The immense masses 
 of bouquets and floral devices of all kinds then placed upon 
 the tombs and graves, even the poorest on account of the small 
 cost of flowers being able to contribute, make of the already 
 delightful spot a veritable floral bower. Among noticeable 
 monuments are a bronze bust, near the entrance, on a black 
 marble column, to the litterateur, Andres Bello; in the calle 
 Central in the rear of the chapel i« the white marble tomb 
 of General Bernardo 'Iliggins. Fifty yards to the right and 
 then turning to the left, one finds the memorial erected over 
 the remains of more than 2000 victims of the holocaust in the 
 Jesuit Church, the Compania, Dec. 8, 1863, when a gorgeous 
 fete to the Virgin w^as in progress. The decorations of paper 
 flowers and festoons of gauze which Avere interspersed with 
 lighted candles, taking fire, fell among the crowd, chiefly 
 women of the higher classes who thronged the church. The 
 doors opening inward, the crowds, packed against them, made 
 egress impossible, and nearly 3000 are said to have perished.
 
 PALACIO UK L.\ .MOXEDA 
 
 CEMKTKUY IN UU.HE TIMK
 
 SANTIAGO 187 
 
 Few of tlie leading families escaped bereavement and since that 
 time this festival has been solemnized with mourning. 
 
 The tombs of many of the Presidents are found on a street 
 of that name, and on the ]\Iagnolia are many of real beauty 
 belonging to some of the leading families. In tlie high wall 
 of the enclosure which covers many acres are niches for the 
 reception of the coffins of the poorer people. At the left of 
 the General Cemetery as one faces the entrance from without 
 is that where the rrolcstants are buried, naturally nuicli 
 smaller and far less attractive. 
 
 On the way to the Cemetery one may pass on the Avenida 
 ■Recoleta the Church of the Eecolcia Dominica which deserves 
 a call. The facade presents a fine row of marble columns, the 
 only edifice in the city furnished with such decoration. The 
 doors are of carved wood. The interior is severely beautiful, 
 avoiding the tawdriness exhibited in many Catholic churches. 
 There are doul)le rows of handsome marble columns with 
 Corinthian capitals, a white marble chancel screen of trellis 
 work, and above the high altar a marble ^ladonna del Kosario. 
 The marble, imported from Italy, was brought in ox-carts 
 from the coast. Pretty cloisters are adjoining. 
 
 In the same avenue a little nearer the city, at the foot of 
 Cerro Blanco, is a small church rather dilapidated. La Yiuita ; 
 of historical interest as erected by Ines Juarez, who came 
 with Pedro de Valdivia, a woman of extraordinary courage 
 both for enduring the hard life, and even going into battle; if 
 necessary engaging in combat, when not attending to the 
 wounded of both parties. 
 
 Santiago is an extremely religious place, so far at Ica.st 
 as the women are concerned, while the men are more in- 
 clined to agnosticism. Among tlie many duirches th(> most 
 important may be mentioned. La Mcrad at the corner of 
 Merced and Claras is painted a pale pink and lias two towers. 
 At the main cnti-ance on Claras, on each side of tlie carved 
 Avooden doors are two life-size paintings, on the right, of 
 Ramon Monato, on the left, of San Pedro Nolasco who foundeti 
 the Order Mercedarios. Within, the objects of interest are 
 a wooden crucifix with notably expressive eyes, a gift from 
 Philij) II of Spain to the Order in Chile, an anti<|ue frame of 
 solid silver near the High Altar enclosing a statue of the
 
 188 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Virgin, and an okl j)ulpit of native Avorkinanship carved 
 from a single tree trunk. Tlie four Evangelists are repre- 
 sented and at the base the four Symbols. The church has 
 an excellent organ and is famed for its tine music. 
 
 The Santo Domingo^ one of the oldest churches in Santiago, 
 at the corner of Santo Domingo and the 21 de IMayo, has a 
 beautiful silver altar exhibited on especial occasions oidy. 
 The little plaza in front is gay with a small flower market, 
 and nearly opposite on Santo Domingo is an old Spanish 
 gateway. 
 
 The San Pedro is a pretty little church in Claras near by. 
 
 The large church of San Agustin, fronting on the Estado* 
 has a ceiling covered with pictures of Saints, Prophets, 
 Martyrs, and also the Ten Commandments. A valued relic 
 is a crucifix, concerning which it is related that in the total 
 destruction of the church by an earthquake in 1730 this suf- 
 fered no injury except that the crown of thorns fell from 
 the head to the neck, and that whenever an attempt was made 
 to replace the crown shocks occurred in the vicinity ; it there- 
 fore remains where it fell. On the anniversary, May 13, oc- 
 curs a great procession of monks and acolytes of various Or- 
 ders, chanting, swinging incense; and with lighted candles, 
 bearing beautifully embroidered banners, a robed figure of the 
 Virgin, and the Crucifix. 
 
 El Salvador, church of the Jesuits, erected after the destruc- 
 tion of the Compailia in 1863, is on the Huerfanos and Almir- 
 ante Barroso, passed by Car 21. This church was damaged 
 by the earthquake of 1906, though Santiago was far less af- 
 fected than Valparaiso. The interior is gay with colors, 
 each pillar being composed of small columns of various hues, 
 which are covered with designs in red, blue, and gold. An 
 angel at the foot of each column holds a plaque with em- 
 blems of the Passion. Handsome stained glass windows 
 portray scenes from the life of Christ. 
 
 The Sa7i Francisco in the Alameda, almost opposite calle 
 San Antonio, said to have l)een built by Valdivia, is plain 
 with a flat ceiling and one simple arch. All around are memo- 
 rial tablets : on the left of the chancel is a fine marble Crucifix 
 in relief. Of great interest as a historical relic, over the High 
 Altar is the wooden image of the Virgin in velvet robes em-
 
 SANTIAGO 189 
 
 broidered witli gold, which \';ddivia used to carry in his 
 saddle-bags. Presented to the church by the brave Captain, 
 it is highly valued. On the right of the altar is a small 
 chapel to St. Anthony, on the extreme left, one to Our Lady, 
 with altar of colored marbles and two ;ingels al)0ve. 
 
 The IJnivcrsily of Chile may be vLsited by those interested 
 in educational matters. It has several departments, the main 
 building on the Alaineda occupying the block between San 
 Diej40 and Arturo Prat. Here are the general offices, the 
 University Libi-ary and the Department of Physical and 
 Natural Sciences termed the Engineering School. A hall 
 in the form of a theater is in the part of the building which 
 scparati^s the two patios. A new Engineering building in 
 the suburbs was to receive this Department, then to be re- 
 l)Iaced by the Law School, the largest of the various branches. 
 \n the Quinta Normal is the building of the ^ledical School 
 with handsome classical facade, containing large halls, and 
 patios ornamented with shrubs and flowers. There is a mod- 
 ern building for the Dental School and an annex for Piiar- 
 macy. It is interesting to note that in most of the South 
 American countries coeducation is rigorously avoided in the 
 lower schools while permitted in most of the universities, 
 conilitions exactly opposite to those in some parts of the 
 United States. A good number of women in Chile study 
 medicine, dentistry, pharmacy, etc., with the men. 
 
 The Military School on the Avenue Blanco Encalada facing 
 Dieciocho street now occupies a fine large building after a 
 checkered career. Founded ^larch IG, 1817, by the Supreme 
 Director Bernardo O'lliggins, it is the oldest in South Amer- 
 ica, though it has experienced several interruptions. The 
 present edifice was decreed in 1887 by the progressive but 
 unfortunate President Balmaceda, though not until 1!)0;{ did 
 it become established as now existing. The school has as 
 its head a German officer, Col. Alfred Schocnmeyer, and pro- 
 vides courses of instruction sinular to those in tiie Gei-man 
 institutions. The building contains all suital)le conditinns 
 of convenience and hygiene, a covered riding .school, shooting 
 galleries, patio facilities for gymnastics, laboratories of science 
 and of military models. 
 
 The Mdilarif Museum, in 11.111 housed in the ArsenaUs do
 
 190 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Guerra next to the Military School, has ])een removed to 
 rooms in the Fine Arts Bnildinp^, Parcjue Forestal. It 
 contains many historical relics: the armor worn by Valdivia 
 during the conquest, a chair which he occasionally used 
 in the brief intervals from fighting, cannon brought over the 
 Andes by Gen. San Martin to aid in freeing the country of 
 Spanish dominion ; a marble urn enclosing the hearts of four 
 heroes who fell in the battle of Concepcion in the effort to 
 save the Chilian colors from the hands of their Peruvian 
 opponents; the flag of the Esmeralda, commanded by Arturo 
 Prat, and sunk in the battle of Iquique ]\Iay 21, 1879; a 
 marble bust of Manuel Rodriguez who, in the War of Inde- 
 pendence, among other brave deeds as scout and spy, three 
 times crossed the Andes on foot; other objects of interest, be- 
 sides cannon, flags, arms, and trophies won in many a fierce 
 battle.
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 SANTIAGO TO BUENOS AIRES BY SEA 
 
 Southern Chile and the Straits of Magellan. The great 
 majority oi' tourists will proceed from SautiajiO by rail over 
 moimtains and plains to Buenos Aires, being influenced 
 tliereto by several considerations. Of tliese the strongest may 
 be the fact that the journey thus made occupies only 48 hours 
 (the return 38), while by sea it requires twelve days, an 
 important consideration in a brief tour. Also in view of the 
 several Aveeks already spent on the ocean and the several 
 more to come, all but the real lover of steamboat travel will 
 I)refcr the land for a change, especially with the prospect of 
 the fine mountain scenery always visible on the Trans-Andine 
 journey and the possibility of a glimpse of mighty Aconcagua, 
 which still claims pre-eminence as the culminating i)oiiit of tiie 
 Western Hemisphere. 
 
 On the other liand the route across the Andes, formerly 
 blocked to general traffic for half the year by reason of the 
 winter snows, may yet be impassable for a month or two, even 
 longer, by reason of the great avalanches which on the ("liilian 
 side of the tunnel are liable in winter or spring to ob-struct 
 the track. When such a condition prevails, the longer way 
 around may easily become the shorter in time. A few will 
 at any pei-iod prefer the ]\lagellan route from inability to 
 endure the 10,000 feet altitude of the mountain journey, from 
 affection for the sea, or from an especial desire to traverse the 
 famous Straits, discovered by ^Ma^'ellan in 1^20 on the first 
 arouud-the-world voyage, and to pass the southern continental 
 limit of the nuiin land if not the dreaded (,'ape Horn. 
 
 The leisurely tourist who desires to see everything of im- 
 portance may enjoy the chief pleasures of both routes: {^oing 
 l)y rail to Puente del Inca on the east side of the mountain, 
 or better, on to ^lendoza on the edge of the great Argi'Utiuc 
 
 191
 
 192 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 plain, returning to Chile by the old route, the splendid horse- 
 back and former diligence trail from Las Cuevas over the 
 once frequented pass. Thus he may delight in near and dis- 
 tant views of splendid cliffs and mountains, and pause to 
 contemplate among tlie everlasting hills the impressive image 
 of a colossal Christ standing on the frontier of two great 
 countries, an emblem of the eternal peace and friendship to 
 which these nations have sworn. 
 
 The tourist who always prefers to travel by sea may at 
 Valparaiso take a P. S. N. steamer (they sail once in two 
 weeks) for IMontevideo, where he must change for the short 
 run to Buenos Aires. All of these boats call on the way at 
 Coronel (or Lota) and Punta Arenas, every other one also 
 at Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, the voyage occupying 11 
 or 12 days to Montevideo. A boat of the Kosmos Line may be 
 taken, although they no longer as formerly go through Smyth 
 Channel, all now missing the fine scenery of the fjords. 
 Persons desiring to see more of Chile may go b,y rail down the 
 famed Central Valley, the wonderful fruit and agricultural 
 section, and through the beautiful lake region, taking the 
 steamer at Coronel. A peculiarity of this longitudinal valley 
 extending several hundred miles between two ranges of moun- 
 tains parallel to the sea is that instead of being watered by a 
 single stream running lengthwise, it is crossed by a number 
 of rivers flowing west into the ocean. The railroad is now 
 opened to the south for a distance of 400 miles to Puerto 
 Montt on the Gulf of Ancud. Although sleeping cars are 
 provided, the journey should be made by day for the enjoy- 
 ment of the scener}^ 
 
 For a considerable distance south of Santiago towns and 
 villages are numerous, some of them especially frequented in 
 the summer. Almost all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and ce- 
 reals are raised to perfection in various parts of the valley. 
 In the earlier part of the journey there are views of lofty 
 Andean peaks; farther south the range is lower, but with 
 a multitude of lakes and dense virgin forests, the scenery is 
 no less beautiful. From Talca, a prosperous town of 15,000 
 on the Maule River, 50 miles south of Santiago, a branch line 
 runs to the small but pleasant town of Constitucion. It was 
 in Talca, Avhich was founded in 1692 and partly destroyed by
 
 SOUTIIP]RX CHILE 193 
 
 a terrible earthquake in 1835, that Director O'lliggiiis signed 
 the Dechiration of Independence. The city has a pretty plaza 
 with a fine Government House, theater, church, and other 
 handsome edifices. 
 
 Chilian, 100 miles farther, is a modern city famous for 
 its tine horses and cattle. It affords an unusual opportunity 
 to see the country people, who come in to the market-place 
 on the outskirts of the city, two or three times a week, 
 especially Saturdays. Wares are well displayed in booths, 
 gay with man tan, gorgeous ribbons and lace, equestrian out- 
 fits, pottery, baskets, and horn ornaments. Street cars run 
 to the historic ruins of old Chilian, the birthplace of Don 
 Bernardo O'lliggins. The famous baths and hot springs of 
 Chilian are beautifully situated among the mountains about 
 60 miles distant at an altitude of nearly 8000 feet. 
 
 The railroad crosses many rivers on some fine bridges, one 
 nearly i^ of a mile long and 300 feet above the ^lalleco 
 River at Collipulli. A bridge % of a mile long crosses 
 the Bio-Bio, along the boundary line between the Spanish 
 American settlements and the country of the fierce Arau- 
 canians. From Rosendo a branch line leads to the cities near 
 the sea, Conccpcion, and its seaport TalcaJiuano 240 miles 
 from Valparaiso, a port both of commercial and military 
 importance on a large bay in which a dry dock has been 
 arranged for the repair and the cleaning of naval vessels. 
 Conccpcion, which was founded by Valdivia, but has licen 
 several times destroyed both by Araucaniaus and by earth- 
 quakes, is now a substantial modern city of 50,000 inhalj- 
 itants. the third in size in the Republic. 
 
 Coronel and Lota, five miles apart on the IJay of Arauco, 
 40 miles south of Talcahuano, ai-e, one or tiie other, regular 
 ports of call for all the steamships, and the only one below 
 Valparaiso for the P. S. N. boats before Punta Arenas. Hence 
 one going by rail to Puerto ]\Iontt would be obliged to return 
 to this point for his steamer; unless possibly the Kosmos 
 boats call farther down. The ])oats call at Coronel or 
 Lota to procure a supply of coal. This is pre-eminently 
 the coal region of Chile, of whieh Lota is the center. In 1S52 
 a lu-operty was pun-based hei-e l)y Don Matias Cousifio who 
 explored for coal with success. His son Luis, in 18(32 iu-
 
 194 TIIK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 heriting the property, in 1869 formed a company, keeping 
 most of tlie shares. His widow later becoming sole owner of 
 the company was called the richest woman in the world, with 
 a property of at least $70,000,000. She died in 1898 leaving 
 six children. Hers was the greatest financial enterprise then 
 carried on by a Chilian. The capital of the Company is now 
 $20,000,000. Half a million tons of coal are annually pro- 
 duced, YiQ of which is used by the Company for smelters and 
 their own steamships, the rest being sold. 
 
 To visit the mines there is a drop in an electric car of 
 nearly 14 of ^ mile. There are streets, shops, offices, res- 
 taurants, stalls for horses, black-smiths' shop, etc., down be- 
 low ; and the workings go far under the deep sea where ships 
 are sailing above. There is good rock and no drip. The 
 Company owns copper mines, smelting works, pottery and 
 brick works, glass and bottle factories, etc., with a fleet of 
 steamers and sailing vessels. Five thousand workmen are em- 
 ployed here, for whom houses are supplied, free schools, church, 
 medical attendance, free coal, asylum for aged, etc. 
 
 The Seiiora spent money lavishly at home and in Paris, 
 where she was well known. Lota Park was laid out by the 
 most skillful landscape gardeners with artistic design and 
 picturesque effects. Stately trees, flower beds, all plants of 
 temperate climes here flourished in a state of the highest cul- 
 tivation. On a bluff above the town, it has wonderful sylvan 
 beauty; with grottoes, bridges, fountains, cascades, etc., mar- 
 ble and bronze monuments, deer and other animals in the 
 woods, an aviary with birds ; near the center, a fine marble 
 statue of the noted Araucanian chief, Caupolican. A palace 
 fit for royalty, not quite completed, it is falling to decay. 
 Superb wainscoting, gold and white frescoing, exquisite par- 
 quetry, carved mantels and sideboards, priceless curios and 
 paintings, treasures of all kinds were brought from Europe, 
 many never unpacked. The Park at times is open by 
 courtesy to strangers, a spectacle of great beauty, though per- 
 haps of melancholy. The Company owning 200,000 acres of 
 farming land has many sheep and cattle and has planted 
 more than 10,000,000 trees. 
 
 Valdivia. Still farther south in a picturesque site on the 
 Calle-Calle River is the town of Valdivia (pop. 12,000), the
 
 SANTIAGO TO BUENOS AIRES BY SEA 195 
 
 fifth city founded by Pedro de Valdivia, in 1552. It was too 
 far from his base for that period, and much slaughter fol- 
 lowed in fierce battles with the natives. Near its port, Corral, 
 at the mouth of the river 15 miles away, in 1820 occurred 
 the victory of Lord Cochrane 's fleet over the Spanish. For 
 several years the railroad halted at Osorno a little fartiier on. 
 Its recent extension to Puerto Monti on the north shore of 
 the Gulf of Reloncavi, about 100 miles beyond, will f^reatly 
 enhance the prosperity of a rich and beautiful section already 
 sprinkled with thriving German colonists. One of the lakes 
 near by, Llanquihue, with an area of nearly 300 square miles 
 is served with steam navigation. 
 
 The boats of the P. S. N. Company running from Callao 
 to Liverpool reach Lota or Coronel the day after leaving \i\\- 
 paraiso. Five days later they arrive at Punta Arenas; in 
 five or six more at Montevideo. 
 
 Sailing towards the South Pole, the coldest region on 
 eartli, the winds naturally become more chill, especially if 
 it is their winter season. By a natural perversity of fate, it 
 is said that the finest scenery is usually passed at night, also 
 it is often foggy or it snows, so little may be seen. After 
 several days with no land in view, the sight of Cape PilUir, 
 rising 1395 feet above the sea, the western extremity of Deso- 
 lation Island, and on the south side, the western outpost of 
 Ihe Straits, gives a thrill of pleasure. On the northwest side 
 of this enti'ance from the Pacific are the three Evangelists 
 and the Sugar Loaf, columnar rock, more impressive than 
 many mountains. From Cape Pillar to Cape Virgenes at the 
 eastern entrance of the Straits it is 240 miles as the crow 
 Hies but between 300 and 400 by the channel which must be 
 followed. As the prevailing winds are west, sailing shijis 
 between October and ]\Iarch sometimes go through from the 
 Pacific, a fair passage occupying 80 days, but they more gen- 
 erally prefer the passing around Cape Horn, 100 miles south, 
 wiiere jagged boulders rise 1o a height of 1391 feet in the 
 midst of a turbulent sea; for despite the 500 additional miles 
 of open water it in open with less danger from fogs, cross 
 currents, etc., and time is usually saved. Storms are frecpn-nt 
 in lliis region, but if the wealliei- favtu-s, the fine scenery in- 
 cluding glacier-covered mountains, deep bays, grim elilVs,
 
 1% TIIF. SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 gray moss, and sparse vegetation, picturesque icebergs, the 
 multitude of penguins, sea-gulls, an occasional albatross, 
 seals and whales, the tints of sea and glaciers, of clouds and 
 crags, forms a picture which some persons think is unequaled 
 in Norway or Alaska. 
 
 Tourists sailing on a special cruise may have the pleasure 
 of a detour to the south to obtain a finer view of the splendid 
 mountain Sarmiento; not so high as many others, but with 
 its 7330 feet of altitude in this latitude presenting an im- 
 posing spectacle, at the base dusky woods for one-eighth of 
 the heiglit, then 6000 feet of snow and glaciers, t^^o of tlie 
 latter indeed reaching down to the sea. 
 
 Punta Arenas. After sailing through Magdalena Channel 
 southeast to Cape Froward, the most southern point of the 
 continental mainland, the ship turns almost north, a trifle 
 to the east, and in a few hours comes to anchor in Lat. 53° 
 off Punta Arenas, the most southern city in the world, 900 
 miles nearer the South Pole than Christ Church, New Zealand, 
 and 1600 nearer than Cape Town. From Cape Froward west, 
 the British Pilot Book says the weather averages 11 hours 
 daily of rain, hail, or snow. There is none worse in any in- 
 habited part of the globe: but the region is not unhealthy. 
 The city of about 12.000 people is a flourishing place with 
 wide streets, good water works and electric lights, a hand- 
 some cathedral, appropriate public buildings, and many fine 
 residences. A museum in charge of some Catholic priests 
 has a collection of the fauna of the country, birds, snakes, 
 fish, animals including a woolly horse, a unique specimen 
 with wool a foot long. Also pottery, weapons, and utensils 
 of the Fuegian tribes are exhibited. In the town, furs, fine 
 guanaco skins, ostrich feathers, Indian baskets, etc., are for 
 sale, and most persons buy souvenirs. A penal colony was 
 first established by the Chilians in 1843 at Port Famine not 
 far away, but after a revolt of the convicts the town was 
 established here; when the place became a regular port 
 as a coaling station for steamships the criminals were re- 
 moved. It was soon discovered that sheep would thrive in 
 this locality: many large ranches have been established in 
 the back country, so that 16.000,000 pounds have been shipped 
 in a year. The Indians, formerly numerous, are now almost
 
 TIKRRA DEL FUEC.O 
 
 KNTUANCt; It) ANUlNt -IL.NM.l., > 1111. lA.N ••-lUt,
 
 SANTIAGO TO BUENOS AIRES BY SEA 197 
 
 exterminated, though some Yahgans and Ouas still wander 
 in the wilds of Ticrra del Fuego. As usual most of the 
 white invaders of whatever nationality have united in their 
 destruction, to which the diseases of the white man have also 
 contributed. 
 
 A settlement still farther south on Beagle Clianncl in the 
 Argentine dominion is a village inhabited only by criminals 
 and their guards, few of the latter being needed, as escape 
 is iinpos.sil)le except by sea. On this side of Cape Froward 
 the ground is flatter, the air dryer, the country treeless and 
 of small interest. Nine hours from Punta Arenas the light- 
 house on Cape Virgenes, 135 feet high, is passed and a three 
 days' sail on the Atlantic in a direct voyage brings one to 
 IMontevideo. 
 
 Port Stanley on the Falkland Islands, a genuine English 
 town of 2000 people, has a fine harbor with supplies for ships 
 and facilities for repairs; no trees, but a sedgy grass, called 
 tussac, 7 feet high, excellent for horses and cattle, and with 
 roots something like celery, edible for man. The weather is 
 never very cold but the average temperature is low.
 
 CIIAPTP]R XXI 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO MENDOZA 
 
 The journey from Santiago to Buenos Aires by the passage 
 of the Cordillera, in former clays seldom undertaken between 
 May and October save by the hardy mail-carriers, may, since 
 the opening of the railroad in 1910, generally be accomplished 
 in any month of the year. Sometimes, however, traffic is 
 temporarily suspended on account of snow-slides blocking 
 the track on the Chilian side of the tunnel. Such incon- 
 venience, oftener arising in the southern winter or early 
 spring, will doubtless in time be obviated by the building of 
 snow-sheds along the dangerous sections, as has been done 
 in the United States. At present, from June to October, it 
 may be well to inquire about conditions before purchasing a 
 ticket, though prolonged suspension of traffic is exceptional. 
 
 The excursion across the Andes, less fatiguing than for- 
 merly, is also far less exciting. The comfortable safety of a 
 ear ride through the tunnel is tame indeed in comparison 
 with the passage by coach or muleback over the cinnhrc 2000 
 feet above. Yet as prosaic comfort is ever more popular 
 than unusual and adventurous experience, tourists to-day by 
 thousands and tens of thousands make the journey where 
 formerly passed tens and hundreds. Still, even to the gazer 
 from a car window the excursion is memorable; to the lover 
 of sublime grandeur the day affords a rare joy. Very dif- 
 ferent is this ride from those across the mountains farther 
 north. Until the completion of the line from Chimbote up 
 the Huailas Valley, the Oroj^a railroad alone will bear com- 
 parison with this. Nor need comparison be made. Each 
 is truly an elevating experience and wholly unlike the other. 
 
 An afternoon departure from Santiago is customary, often 
 as late as 6.15 p. m. The night must be spent at Los Andes 
 whence the start is made in the early morning. "With ample 
 
 198
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO MEXDOZA 199 
 
 time at one's disposal, it is well to take a i"oren<)(jii train I'roin 
 Santiago to have a few hours at the pleasant Chilian sum- 
 mer resort which affords opportunities for many delightful 
 strolls, while th<; scenery along the; way makes a daylight 
 journey desira])le. The monument to the Clark Brothers 
 unveiled at Los Andes, October 22, lUll, is a worthy honor 
 to the initiators of this great railway. As early as 1870 
 they applied for a concession, though it was 1886 before the 
 first was received; while they were unal)le to complete the 
 work, they have the credit of its beginning. After the Caaa 
 Grace took charge on the Chilian side good progress was 
 made. In li)06 it was arranged to pierce the tunnel under 
 one control, and the task was accoinplislied in time for the 
 Argentine Centennial in 1910. As far as Llai-Llai, where 
 connection is made with the train from Valparaiso, the route 
 lies north along the valley over the road wliich has pre- 
 viously been traversed. At the junction, venders of delicious 
 fruit are ever on hand selling, according to the .sea.sou, j^ears, 
 peaches, oranges, grapes, cherries, or figs, at prices calculated 
 to tempt the hungry tourist. Llai-Llai is a pleasant little 
 town of about 6000 people, at a height of 2625 feet above 
 the sea. San Felipe, somewhat larger, is passed before reach- 
 ing (to use the full name), Santa Rosa de los A)idcs. 
 
 A few ro<ls from the station is the hotel Sud Americano 
 where the night is passed. The town boasts of another, but 
 through travelers prefer the pleasant little establishment, 
 from the rear of which the train early in the morning departs. 
 In the summer the climate of Los Andes is delightful, the 
 evenings always cool ; at other seasons the nights are cold 
 and fi-osty. Leave word in the oHice when you wish to be 
 called, or you may be ovi-rlooked and miss your train or 
 your coffee, which is not agreeable. The cars are apt lo be 
 full, so it is well to hasten, if friends wish seats together, or 
 at times to ol)taiM any at all. 
 
 The track follows the Aconcagua Kiver, on whi«-h Los 
 Andes is situated, up a beautiful valley, after S or 10 niiles 
 growing narrower between steeper walls. From lu\»ii-iaiit 
 vegetation to bare rocks and snow, from beauty to grandeur, 
 the change is quickly made. The river l)ec()nies rapidly 
 smaller as we jiass above tiie merry litlU' streams which cou-
 
 200 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tribute to its madly rushing torrent. One bridge is called 
 the Puente de las Viscachas, these being rabbit-like animals 
 resembling the chinchilla but with coarser fur. The rocks of 
 varying hue in sunliglit and shadow, cliffs and gorges, and 
 the foaming stream continually attract the eye. A hundred 
 yards beyond the station, Los Loros, is the place called Salto 
 del Soldado, the Soldier's Leap, to see which one must keep 
 a sharp lookout on the left, the train passing on a shelf with 
 the stream 60 feet below. Various tales are told of the 
 origin of the name, one that in the "War of Independence a 
 patriot escaped from the enemy by leaping the narrow gorge 
 w^hich is crossed by the train on a bridge. At the station, 
 Rio Blanco, White River, a stream of that name joins the 
 Aconcagua. Not far beyond is Guardia Vieja, where for more 
 than two centuries a sentry or watchman has been stationed 
 for the protection of the traveler, a necessary though in- 
 adequate safe-guard, as in the old days bandits sometimes lay 
 in wait even for parties of considerable size. Robberies were 
 not infrequent and murders were by no means rare. 
 
 In ascending the Visp Valley to Zermatt by the aid of the 
 rack and pinion system, also employed on the Andine, a 
 height of 3000 feet is gained in a distance of 28 miles. On 
 this road 7000 feet are climbed in 35 miles, 2000 of these in 
 the last 8 to Juncal, a rapid ascent for a traffic as dis- 
 tinguished from a purely mountain railway. Juncal is 
 noteworthy, as the place where formerly the night was spent 
 by those tourists and business men designing in the early da"\vii 
 to set out on saddle animal or in mountain wagon for the 
 summit and the other side. Farther on is a tranquil little 
 lake, above 9000 feet, an opalescent gem, at times turquoise 
 or sapphire, called the Lago del Inca. Now the track makes 
 a great curve into an immense couloir, passing at the foot or 
 along the side of cliffs or steep slopes, where, as in places 
 lower down, rocks small and large seem ready to fall, as 
 others have already descended. From the farther side of the 
 great curve we soon look across at the track 1000 feet be- 
 neath. "We gaze in admiration upon the splendid gloomy 
 cliffs with tints of slate color from blue-gray to black, and 
 on rocks with delicate hues of pink and cream, splashed 
 with red and bronze or green; intermingled with these are
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO :\IEXDOZA 201 
 
 patches of pure uliite snow. Observation cars would greatly 
 increase the pleasure. Too soon at Caracoles, at a height 
 of 10,486 feet, the tunnel's portal is reached and tlie splendor 
 of the majestic scene has vanished. Now for almost two 
 miles, to be exact, 10,385 feet, the train goes on through the 
 backbone of the continent at an elevation about the same 
 as the tunnel's length. Near the center, the international 
 boundary is passed; hence, after ten minutes of darkness, com- 
 ing once more to daylight, one is in the great country of 
 Argentina on the east side of the Andes, still in a vast wilder- 
 ness of gorges, rocks, and peaks of multifarious shapes and 
 colors, diversified by immense fields of snow, with many l)rief 
 visions of grandeur Avhicli one would fain tarry to enjoy. 
 Fortunate the traveler, who, 7 or 8 miles below Las Cuevas, 
 has at the head of a side valley at the north a glimpse of 
 colossal Aconcagua 15 miles away, a long ridge of snow arch- 
 ing into two domes, with a sheer drop of 10,000 feet on its 
 black southern wall; and farther on a sight of Tupungalo, 
 30 miles away at the south : both mountains first climbed in 
 1897 by the Fitzgerald Expedition, though he unfortunately 
 was compelled by mountain sickness to forego the satisfaction 
 of attaining either sunnnit himself. The first to reach the 
 supposed apex of the Western Hemisphere, the top of Aconca- 
 gua, according to the latest measurement, 22,817 feet, was 
 Mafias Zurbriggen, the celebrated Swiss guide, who in almost 
 every land has led English and Americans to the summits of 
 noted mountains. Alone, January 14, 181)7, he gained this 
 height, and there erected a stone man as is the custom where 
 possible. In April of the same year, the first ascent of 
 Tupun<iafo, 21,451 feet, was made, also by Zurbriirgcn, ami 
 flu; i'higlisluiKin, Vines. 
 
 Puente del Inca. The lirst station in Argentina is Las 
 Cuevas: then Ave drop (piickly to Piicntc del Inca where a few 
 moments are allowed for tea. The contnist between the green 
 and luxuriant vegetation of the Chilian side ami the barren- 
 ness of the Argentine is singularly opposite to that in l'«'ru, 
 where the western slopes of tlie Andes are mostly desert whib' 
 the eastern are clothed with the richest verdure. At I'liciitf 
 del Inca is a cuimous foi-iiiation from wjiicli tlie place is named, 
 a natural bridge of stratilied rock, one of nature's marvels.
 
 202 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 The stream has perforated a bank al)out 20 feet tliick so as 
 to form, 80 feet above the river, a fine arched bridge, at the 
 top 150 feet long and 20 wide, and nearly 30 feet thick. 
 The piers have been strengthened by calcareous deposits 
 from springs which gush from the earth just at the bridge. 
 On the left bank of the stream a path of steps partly cut in 
 the rocks leads down to hot waters. First comes the Bath 
 of Venus, an effective grotto of white stalactites. Next is 
 the Champagne Spring, its foaming waters revealing a con- 
 siderable pressure from below. Among other warm springs 
 beyond is one called Mercury. On all sides gush forth these 
 waters cold, hot, and tepid, saturated with carbonic acid 
 gas; the Venus is 86°, the Champagne 93°, the same when the 
 path is covered with six feet of snow. The waters are supe- 
 rior to the more noted Vichy in containing twice the quantity 
 of carbonic acid, hence greater effervescence; and five times 
 as much iron. This renders them a real treasure, a few 
 months' treatment causing maladies to disappear (they say) 
 upon which the Vichy waters make no impression. The iron, 
 salts, and gas of the waters make them efficacious in gout, 
 rheumatism, and severe stomach affections, as well as an ex- 
 cellent tonic for those who believe such to be required. Sul- 
 phur, good for skin diseases, is also present. The Hotel del 
 Inca affords comfortable accommodations (including a billiard 
 room) ; all that could be expected at an altitude of 8924 feet, 
 for a daily fee of six pesos ($2.64) with some extras. 
 
 One who is ambitious to ascend one of the lofty peaks 
 near by, or who would merely stroll to a lesser height to gaze 
 upon those above, or who would wander in strange valleys 
 and on ragged slopes will here find the most favorable head- 
 quarters for his rambles, as well as cure for many ailments. 
 While the great mountains, Aconcagua and Tupungato, no 
 longer afford opportunity for a first ascent, there are many 
 other peaks of various altitudes, the summits of which are 
 yet untrodden ; one, lofty ]Mercedario, about 22,000 feet, to 
 the north of Aconcagua, believed by some to be second in 
 height to that alone. Expert climbers only should attempt 
 exploits of such magnitude, and these not without Alpine 
 equipment and more ; for to the ordinary paraphernalia of 
 proper shoes, ropes, and ice axes must be added tents, sleep-
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO .MENDOZA 203 
 
 iiig bags, etc. The season for c-liinbing here is not the same 
 as in Peru and Bolivia, but during the summer of this re- 
 gion, December and January. Strange to say, although in 
 the Temperate Zone, so vastly farther from the e(iuator, 
 these mountains have infinitely less snow upon their slopes 
 than have Huascariin and Illampu. They are therefore much 
 easier to climb, making Swiss guides not an imperative neces- 
 sity, so far as the technical difficulties are concerned : though 
 whether reliable companions as porters could be secured upon 
 the ground is an extremely doubtful matter. 
 
 But on this journey by rail how nuich has one missed! 
 Discomfort indeed has been avoided; but at the cost of a 
 glorious and exciting experience. In former days, what a 
 rush and bustle at Juncal ! in the chilly hour between tiiree 
 and four a. m., when an army of pleasure and of business 
 travelers hurried to secure places in the mountain wagons, or 
 to select a gentle and sturdy animal for the seven hours' 
 ride. The coach drivers were reckless Jehus who madly raced 
 for the summit and then for the lower goal, amid a caravan 
 of freight wagons, baggage animals, and riders, the latter to 
 their joy soon left behind. Though the roads were called 
 good they were deep with sand, and have no such great curves 
 as the roads over Alpine passes. Short zigzags with acute 
 angles, a roadbed rough with ruts and stones, few walls at 
 the corners where a slip over the edge would mean a roll of 
 a few thousand feet, made a ride in a swaying eoaeh behind 
 horses going at a gallop assuredly exciting to people with any 
 nerves. Some, once embarked and unable to escape, would 
 turn their thoughts from danger to admiration of the scenery, 
 reflecling perhaps that aceidents were rare. The view of 
 mighty walls, of glaciers near at hand, of distant glorious 
 mountains; the fine pure air ever colder, thougli alas! ever 
 thinner, was a blissful experience for those who eouhi enjoy it ; 
 l)ut not for the faint-iiearted eilher literally or figuratively. 
 Here and there one would grow faint, become unconscioiis. per- 
 haps even pitch out of the wagon: oftener a st;d\vai-t man 
 than a frail woman. On they would go, their friends un- 
 terlain whether a temporary weakness or a serious, i)ossil)ly 
 fatal affection was attacking the vielim. 
 
 At last the cumbrc or highest point was icachd. IJ.T'.M.i
 
 204 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 feet above the sea ; not a sharp ridge, but a nearly level stretch 
 a quarter of a mile across among the massive hills and moun- 
 tains : a tremendous range of gloomy, desolate, forbidding 
 peaks, or a splendid rampart of majestic, glorious moun- 
 tains, according to the soul and mood of the spectator. Here 
 in the midst of this great solitude is the most impressive 
 monument, men say, in all the world, the Christ of the Andes, 
 a bronze figure of Christ of heroic size, 26 feet, one hand out- 
 stretched in blessing, the other supporting a still higher 
 cross. The circumstance of its erection, the sentiment in- 
 volved, as well as the unique position of the monument, 
 make it the most remarkable in the world's history. 
 
 Chile and Argentina in 1900 were on the verge of war 
 over a boundary dispute involving 80,000 square miles of ter- 
 ritory in the Patagonian country. Immense sums expended 
 for warships and other preparations were the cause of ab- 
 normally high taxes, the products of which were needed rather 
 for the development of physical resources and of education. 
 The British Ministers employed their good offices and two 
 bishops, one of each country, traveled among their towns and 
 villages preaching the cause of Peace and Arbitration. Bishop 
 Benavente in Buenos Aires, on Easter Sunday 1900, first 
 suggested the erecting of a statue of Christ upon the boundary, 
 to prevent if possible any recurrence of strife. A treaty was 
 made, the controversy was submitted to the arbitration of 
 the British IMonarch; King Edward entrusted the case to 
 jurists and geographers whose decision, dividing the disputed 
 territory, was cheerfully accepted. In June 1903, Chile and 
 Argentina, pleased with the outcome of this matter, made a 
 general arbitration treaty, the first ever concluded among 
 nations; a considerable disarmament followed releasing 
 much money for needed internal improvements, and good feel- 
 ing and confidence have replaced bitterness and jealousy. 
 
 In 1901 the women of Buenos Aires, on the initiative of 
 Seuora de Costa, President of the Christian IMothers' Asso- 
 ciation of that city, acting upon the suggestion of Bishop 
 Benavente, undertook to secure funds for a statue. A young 
 Argentine sculptor, Mateo Alonso, created the design; the 
 statue was cast from old Argentine cannon. In May 1903, 
 the Chilian representatives came by sea to Buenos Aires for
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO MEXDOZA 205 
 
 the ratification of the treaties, Avhen the statue of Christ was 
 inspected and Sefiora de Costa pk^aded tliat it shoidd be 
 placed on the highest practicabU^ point on the bouiuhiry of the 
 two countries. In February, 1904, tlie final steps were taken. 
 The statue was carried by rail to ]\Iendoza, and on gun car- 
 riages up the mountain side, soldiers and sailors in dangerous 
 spots taking the ropes from the mules. On tiie l:{th of 
 March, 1904, the dedication ceremonies took place in the 
 presence of hundreds who from both sides had come up the 
 night before and here encamped to witness this extraordinary 
 spectacle. The Argentines stood on the soil of Chile, the 
 Chilians on that of Argentina. Tiie booming of gun.s, the 
 sound of music re-echoed through the mountains. When all 
 was ready, the monument unveiled, there was a moment of 
 solemn silence, followed by the dedication of the statue to tiie 
 whole world, as a lesson of peace and good will. 
 
 The monument consists of an octagonal granite column 22 
 feet high upon which is a hemisphere of granite with a 
 partial sketch of the world's outlines. On this stands the 
 bronze Christ 26 feet higli, the cross extending five feet above. 
 Two bronze tablets on the granite base, the gift of the AVork- 
 ingmen's and Workingwomen 's Unions of Buenos Aires, 
 bear inscriptions in Spanish, on one side statistics and dates, 
 on the other — 
 
 "Sooner shall these mountains crumble info dust than- 
 Argentines and Chiliaris break the peace to ichich th<]i have 
 pledged themselves at the feet of Christ the Iiedccnur." 
 
 Until the opening of the railroad in I\Iay 1910, this great 
 statue was annually passed by thousands who jiaused here 
 for a moment in the midst of their dizzy ride to rest and to 
 gaze upon the scene. Now it stands ever lonely between 
 heaven and eai-th, the silence no more broken by the raucous 
 shouts of swearing coachmen and nudeteers, or by the crude 
 jests of a boisterous throng; to the few who now venture 
 along that solitary way, a solemn spectacle. 
 
 On this journey over the cumbre one is likely to descry 
 specimens of the great condi)r, offener to lie seen in Chile than 
 in the countries nearer the (Miualor. In the many days 1 
 have spent aliove 15,000 feet in Piiii and I'.olivia, not one 
 appeared witliin the range of my vision. In the iiionntainons
 
 206 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 regions of Chile, the birds are so numerous as to be a pest, 
 attacking pigs, sheep, children, and rarely a grown man ; 
 hence a reward for condors dead or alive has been offered 
 by the Government. From the top of the pass down to Las 
 Cuevas near the tunnel entrance it was said to be a swift 
 slide at breakneck speed. The thankfulness with which the 
 tourist descended from the coach to enter the prosaic train 
 may well be imagined. The sturdy pedestrian was the one 
 who in safety and tranquillity might truly enjoy the mag- 
 nificent visions, while others in terror had fleeting glimpses 
 of the splendid panorama. One should not, however, even 
 with a good revolver, in these days venture alone upoii the 
 traverse, unless thoroughly seasoned to greater heights; for 
 though the brigands who once haunted this region have prob- 
 ably departed to more frequented scenes, the danger of an 
 attack of mountain sickness or of a sudden storm, especially to- 
 wards the beginning of winter, should deter most persons from 
 the excursion except with suitable companions and equipment. 
 It should be noted that high winds frequently prevail in these 
 lofty regions after nine or ten in the morning, strong enough 
 at times to hurl horse and rider from the track to the depths 
 below; this fact accounts for the unearthly hour at which 
 the start was formerly made for the ride over the cumhre. 
 Stone huts called casaclias, anciently built as refuges from 
 storm, are scattered along the road, though now apt to be 
 snow-filled and useless. 
 
 Below Puente del Inca, the region seems like the interior 
 of an extinct volcano, with variously tinted volcanic rocks. 
 Dotting the slope of a jagged mountain, some odd small 
 black pinnacles, called penitent es, are supposed to resemble 
 toiling pilgrims, and the perpendicular cliffs above suggest 
 a cathedral. On other slopes are nieves penitent es, ice 
 pinnacles, curiously formed by the action of sun and wind, 
 these the original penitentes, as the pilgrims were garbed in 
 W'hite. 
 
 Beyond Punta de las Vacas is a point on the left where the 
 rock strata are of tints especially magnificent. At the sta- 
 tion Uspallata, the narrow gorge opens into a little plain at 
 right-angles, where river and railroad both turn south. The 
 name Uspallata is applied to the whole pass: its passage by
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO MEXDOZA 207 
 
 a division of San ^Martin's army with cannon was a riMiiark- 
 able military exploit: the general himself with th« iarf2:cr 
 force crossed to the north of Aconcagua a slijjliTly hnver but 
 colder pass called Los Patos. 
 
 Cacheuta. Near this station, 40 kilometers from Mendoza, 
 are more hot baths, on the left of the railroad descending, 
 but on the right bank of the river. Here is a surface of 
 about 3000 square meters Avhere by digging to a depth of 
 2 or 3 feet hot water will gush forth, the temperature 
 varying according to the location, the hottest water near the 
 river, 112°, the lowest, 79°. The waters are valuable to suf- 
 ferers from rheumatism, articular, nuiscular, and visceral; 
 less so for neuralgic pains, which may return. Women are 
 benefited in their special ails. The waters strongly stimulate 
 the nervous system, the power of nutrition, and the whole 
 organic system including the heart action and circulation, 
 and are therefore forbidden to persons suffering from dis- 
 eases of the heart and circulation, some of whom pay for 
 their rashness with their lives. The bath establishment, af- 
 fording fair accommodations, a dining-room seating 250, and 
 a billiard room, receives a))out 20.000 guests a year. Sum- 
 mer visitors are the most numerous. The baths include a 
 swimming pool, and smaller tanks with water hot or cold, and 
 a grotto for Russian baths. The price for two meals daily 
 and bath is six pesos, or second class 4.50. The two meals 
 are almiurzo and dinner, morning coffee being extra, a <iiri- 
 ous custom first observed in Chile but obtaining largely in 
 Argentiiui. The Indian name, Cacheuta, is derived from the 
 fact lliat hei-e an Indian chief l)earing, with attendants, two 
 skins full of gold was met by Sj)aniar(ls as he was going to 
 ransom the Inca. The Indians succeeded in deceiving the 
 Spaniards and concealing the gold. The secret was well kepi 
 until a poor Indian, befriended by a missionary, revealed the 
 hiding place; but there was a mistake somewhere as all 
 search was vain. 
 
 At length the mountains are left behind, probably after 
 dusk has fallen, so that the arrival at .1// ndoza is in the «'arly 
 evening. The tourist who is making a hasty trip will hurry 
 jiiioss llie station to the probably wailing train, by which 
 he will arrive in Buenos Aires the following evening. The
 
 208 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 more leisurely, and the tired traveler will take a carriage to 
 the Grand Hotel where an excellent dinner will be enjoyed 
 and comfortable night quarters may be obtained. In looking 
 about the town and visiting one of the great bodegas, a day 
 or two will be agreeably spent. 
 
 Mendoza Hotels, the Grand, the Club, the Francia and 
 others. At the Grand, on Plaza San Martin, the table was 
 unexpectedly good; the dinner, served on the broad veranda, 
 from seven to nine on a balmy summer evening, was a gen- 
 uine ])leasure. 
 
 Mendoza, with 50,000 inhabitants, the largest city in West 
 Argentina, has a remarkable record. Strange, indeed, that 
 this town at the base of the loftiest of the Andes, by these 
 separated from one ocean, and by 650 miles of pampa from 
 the other, was founded nearly fifty years before the first 
 settlement in the United States and twenty years before the 
 city of Buenos Aires came permanently into being. If we 
 knew or reflected more on the bold deeds of other days in 
 other countries, we might, perchance, have more respect 
 for others and less assurance of our own great superiority. 
 May 2, 1561 (some say March 2, 1560), a city was founded 
 by Pedro del Castillo in a fruitful spot watered by the Men- 
 doza River. At an altitude of 2500 feet, in the longitude 
 of Portland, Maine, and a latitude corresponding to that of 
 Charleston, it is an agreeable place, with plazas, wide, pleas- 
 ant streets, and attractive buildings ; but all seems new. 
 Two cities there are, the living and the dead ; not as in Cuzco, 
 the one of an earlier race, built over and around by invaders, 
 but an old city of the sixteenth century, a new one of the nine- 
 teenth. Unless aware of this fact, the old will be ignored, the 
 visitor passing on, unaware of its existence. Some, indeed, 
 may prefer so to do, but others will desire to have a glimpse of 
 the ruins: for the city of 1561, 300 years later, was utterly 
 destroyed by a tremendous earthquake. The catastrophe was 
 of a singular character. At 8.30 p. m., March 20, 1861, a 
 subterranean groan was heard. On the instant, before there 
 was time to flee, the house walls crumbling fell, the roofs in 
 the middle, so that the people, generally in their houses, 
 perished to the number of 10,000-15,000. Some, who were 
 promenading in the streets or plaza, were killed or thrown
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO .AIEXDOZA 209 
 
 to the ground ; but many of these who were saved engaged 
 in the work of rescue : too few, however, to do effective hibur, 
 so that a hirge nuiu])er wlio had not been killed outright, 
 confined among the ruins, perished from asphyxiation and 
 starvation. From lamps and fires in the dwellings and the 
 breaking of gas pipes, a conflagration followed, rendering the 
 night more horrible. Some districts next day were flooded 
 from the obstruction of the canals ; the odor of dead bodies 
 became insupportable, as the survivors ■were too few to 
 remove them. The shocks had continued until nothing was 
 left standing; there were 19 within the next 24 hours, 17 of 
 which were violent; 14 more the next day; gradually they 
 diminished, coming to an end in May. It is extraordinary 
 that the strength of this violent convulsion was confined to 
 a district 60 miles long and 6 wide, extending southeast from 
 the Uspallata Valley. A slight jar was felt at Buenos Aires, 
 but in Chile across the Andes no tremor at all. Assistance, 
 though promptly sent, was long delayed in arrival, as at that 
 time practically no railroads existed in Argentina. Succor 
 first came from the neighl)oring towns of San Juan and San 
 Luis, then from Chile, all of Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, 
 Peru, and Europe; by which the survivors w'ere enabled to 
 rehabilitate themselves. 
 
 There was the usual talk of changing the location of the 
 city to a site not far away near granite hills, indicating a 
 more solid substratum; but the people as elsewhere refused 
 to move, rebuilding close by in the lighter Chilian fashion, 
 with a larger use of wood, and employing nuich material 
 taken from the ruins. Thus these have to some extent dis- 
 appeared, but it is worth while to have the coachinau drive 
 you over, if you care to see the destruction wrought. 
 
 The iirw city of i\rendoza has recently experienced a 
 rapid gi-owth and great prosperity. Of the seven plazas, 
 most important are the San ^lartin on wliich is the (ii-aiid 
 and another hotel, also the handsome building of the Hank 
 of the Province; and the Plaza Independencia, larger and 
 finer, around which are already erected or about to be 
 built, a new Government Palace, a Legislative Building, and 
 a Hall of Justice. Other objects of more or le.ss interest 
 according to one's taste, ai-e churches, convents, lil)raries,
 
 210 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 a national collctic, a kindergarten of the very latest model, 
 a normal and an agricultural school, factories of various 
 industries, several Clubs of foreigners here resident, hos- 
 pitals, orphan asylums, and a fine penitentiary. There are 
 many broad streets, the chief avenue for shopping and prom- 
 enade, the San ]\Iartin, being 100 feet wide with four rows 
 of fine poplars. The streets, clean and well paved, are lined 
 with a profusion of trees, more than 10,000; so many as to 
 render the atmosphere at times (it is said) stifling and un- 
 healthy. The houses are mainly of one story and none are 
 above two, out of consideration for the earthquakes. 
 
 A comical and original method of street watering may 
 here be observed. Considerable streams run along the sides 
 of the main avenue, if not elsewhere, and boys with buckets 
 on the end of long poles dip these into the water and throw 
 it upon the driveway, a primitive but effective method. 
 
 On the west of the city an immense park is being developed 
 into a charming resort at the edge of the Andean foothills. 
 The handsome bronze gates at the entrance, costing $25,000, 
 were imported from Europe. Within are splendid drive- 
 ways lighted by electricity ; beautiful flower beds ; thousands 
 of trees and shrubs ; an interesting zoological garden ; a pretty 
 botanical garden ; and a charming lake nearly a mile long 
 and 330 feet wide, arranged with boating facilities, beautified 
 by islands, and furnished wdth a splendid grand stand on a 
 sloping shore with seating accommodations for 3000 people. 
 Not far away is a rond point, with a kiosk as a band stand. 
 Already a delightful resort wliich no one should fail to visit, 
 it promises to be a truly magnificent pleasure ground. If 
 there is one to compare with it in the United States in a city 
 of twice the size, it has not come to my attention. 
 
 To many the greatest interest of IMendoza will be in the 
 neighboring vineyards and bodegas. ]\Iany fortunes, large 
 and small, have been made in viticulture in Argentina, and 
 this region east of the Andean foothills is wonderfully well 
 calculated for its development. Investments in this business 
 return as high as 25 to 30 per cent profits. One hectare 
 (21/4 acres) of land will bear 300 to 400 cwt. of grapes, which 
 sell at 3 or 4 pesos a cwt., an Argentine peso being 44 cents. 
 An economical Italian family can live on the returns from a
 
 ACROSS THE ANDES TO :\IEXDOZA 211 
 
 single hectare. Among the various industries of the province 
 wine production is the most important, increasing between 
 1895 and 1908 from the value of 9 to 44 million jjcsos. The 
 largest of the bodegas or wineries is that of Domingo Tomha, 
 whose wines have received at European Expositions many 
 gold and silver medals. This great estahlislimciit at Godoy 
 Cruz, a pretty town half an hour by rail from Mendoza or a 
 pleasant drive, may be visited in a half day. Interesting at 
 any time it is especially so during the grape season which 
 lasts from February to ^lay, the fruit coming in first from 
 the north and along down to tlie southern limit of produc- 
 tion. Senor Tom])a owns several large vineyards, 3000 
 acres, and purchases the entire product of others. The 
 bodega, established by his brother Antonio (now deceased) 
 in 1886, then producing- 1000 hectolitres, increased to a pro- 
 duction of 254,000 in 1909. All essentials of a first class 
 establishment are here found. The employees, like the pro- 
 prietor, are mainly of Italian birth. It is an immense prop- 
 erty with many ])uildings of various kinds. Rows of enor- 
 mous casks for fermentation and deposit contain 220 hecto- 
 litres each, others are smaller, also there are great tanks of 
 brick. The large two-wheeled carts for transportation are 
 drawn by four horses, one ahead and tliree al)reast, the driver 
 riding one of the three. A large patio contains a pretty 
 garden and a monument to the founder of the House. The 
 buildings are as neat as possible and of fine workmanship. 
 The wine is excellent, of good body, but not designed for 
 export, not im])roving with age. For ordinary tabU' use 
 there is none better, and the demand for it in Arirentina, 
 in spite of continually enlarged production, is always greater 
 than the supply. 
 
 IMendoza is a popular winter resort for many Argentinians 
 on account of its pieturesque surroundings and generally 
 cloudless sky, with a superb view of snowelad heights; but 
 most Americans would consider a frequent tem|)ei-ature in 
 the forties a trifle ehill williout a (ire. and would hie .-luay 
 to warmer climes. 
 
 The extensive system of irrigation carried on in the Prov- 
 ince renders it highly productive of alfalfa, wheat, and eorn, 
 as well as grapes; also of vegetables rivaling the California
 
 212 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 giants, onions as large as plates, colossal carrots and radisnes, 
 at some seasons, miishrootiis, marvellous in size and flavor, 
 all these largely trans[)orted to liucnos Aires. As an at- 
 tractive center of immigration this is the third province of 
 the Republic.
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 ARGENTINA— ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUENOS AIRES 
 
 The great country of Argentina, tlie largest we have yet 
 visited, in South America second only to Brazil, has more 
 than five times the area of France and above one-third that 
 of the United States. Considerably longer than the latter 
 country, though not so wide, its latitude compares with that 
 from Key West to Hudson Bay, a distance of 2200 miles; its 
 width varies from 200 to 1000 miles. Its great length from 
 north to south assures wide variety in climate, aside from 
 changes in elevation, of which there is not much after get- 
 ting away from the Andes. The climate range is from Sicily 
 or hotter to Iceland, less than in corresponding latitudes in 
 North America. 
 
 The central part of the country now to be traversed is 
 the great pampa section, largely a region of cattle raising, 
 where the soil is from 'S to 6 feet thick; farther north and 
 east in the Parana basin, where wheat, sugar, and many other 
 products are raised, the soil is from 30 to 100 feet thick. In 
 Patagonia at the south the plains are of sand and gravel, 
 requiring irrigation except for a few small fertile valleys. 
 A ricli country is Argentina, now forging ahead with won- 
 derful strides. 
 
 The journey to Buenos Aires is made from Mendo/.a in 
 twenty-four hours by the express trains, chiefly composed 
 oF sleeping cars. These have by the windows at one side 
 an aisle, from which staterooms open with bcrtlis one above 
 another running cross-wise of the car. Each room contains 
 a lavatory, electric lights and fan. \W day there is a long 
 leather covered seat, less comfortable than those in our 
 sleepers, and far less than on the desjused narrow gauge rail- 
 way from Oruro to Antofagasta. A dining ear is attached 
 to the train, furnishing fair meals at reasonable prices. 
 
 213
 
 214 THE SOUTH AMEIUCAN TOUK 
 
 Leaving Mendoza by daylight, a region of vineyards with 
 a few towns may be seen for some miles, and at harvest time 
 men and women by thousands engaged in picking the great 
 chisters of grapes; but soon an arid country is reached, not 
 like the West Coast deserts farther north, })ut resembling our 
 western plains. There is a scanty growth of scrub and an 
 excessive amount of dust, which in great profusion creeps 
 through the single w'indows to the discomfort of all pas- 
 sengers. Here there is almost no rainfall, and one need not 
 regret passing in the night. Santa Rosa, a town fifty miles 
 from Mendoza, has some historic importance as the site of 
 two battles in the civil wars of 1874, where the national 
 forces, defeated in October, were in December victorious under 
 Col. Julio A. Roca. 
 
 Near the small station Balde, 75 miles farther, is a noted 
 artesian Avell 2000 feet deep, sunk in this arid region by the 
 National Government at a cost of 150,000 pesos. Boring was 
 begun March 31, 1884, with a tube of 20 inches diameter, 
 decreasing gradually to Sy^ inches. Not until October 12, 
 1887, did water begin to gush, at last in great quantity, esti- 
 mated by some at 8000 liters, by others at 200,000 liters an 
 hour, a rather wide margin. The water having a temper- 
 ature of 105° is drinkable and of great value. 
 
 A little beyond is the town of San Luis (population 
 15,000) founded in 1597 by the Governor of Chile. From 
 raising alfalfa, land has increased in value ten fold, being 
 now worth $5 or $6 an acre. Cattle raising is a special indus- 
 try of the province, also the sale of green onyx, beds of which 
 lie to the north. 
 
 Villa Mercedes, a town of about the same size, is an im- 
 portant railway junction. One might here take a train by 
 way of Villa Maria to Cordoba, if desirous of visiting that 
 historic city. From here to Buenos Aires is a region of 
 rainfall and of wonderful fertility, the great cattle ranches, 
 formerly covering the Avhole country, being to some extent 
 superseded by the cultivation of the soil; wiieat, linseed, and 
 corn are produced in immense quantities. It may be noted 
 in passing that Argentina is the greatest exporter (not pro- 
 ducer) of cattle and of cereals of any country in the world. 
 At many stations there is but a house or two, an adobe hut
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUENOS AIRES 215 
 
 occupied by an Itjiliaii or by a gaucJio, a cowboy of mixed 
 race, Spanish and Indian. Yet in ths season 6000 tons of 
 wheat may be seen at one of these stations, representing 
 great wealth. The freight cars, weighing 121/. tons, will 
 carry a load of 40 tons, this being a broad gauge road with 
 straight and almost level track, inclining slightly to tlie sea. 
 The longest straight in the world is here found, 175 miles in 
 direct line, and, but for one S curve, 206 miles. Bronzed 
 cattlemen may be seen at the stations, and along the way 
 thousands of splendid cattle; then a sea of cultivated limit- 
 less plain, interesting for a while, but j^resently monotonous 
 to many. 
 
 Between Villa IMercedes and Mackcnua, 40 miles, is a very 
 rich zone containing many elegant dwellings of motlern style 
 with city comforts, amid gardens and orchards, fields of vege- 
 tables and cereals. 
 
 Rufino, another railroad center, is a station of hurry and 
 bustle. A wonderful change has taken place in this region 
 in the last 25 years, from a lonely exi)anse with a rare dwell- 
 ing and a few native cattle to villages, splendid herds, and 
 grain fields whose products always outrun the provision of 
 sheds and storehouses. Near the station Vcdia, the end of 
 the straight from IMackenna, is the noted cstancia or raneh of 
 Senor Benito Villanueva of 35,000 acres, which contained 
 some years ago 14,000 Shorthorn cattle, besides Lincoln and 
 Shropshire sheep, and 1200 horses of Clydesdale, SulTolk, and 
 Hackney. A station on a branch line is called Gen. Arenales 
 after the owner of an iminii-tant establishment, with i-reamei-y 
 and cheese factory making 200 pounds of cheese a day. 
 
 A busy town is Junin on the site of a fort from which 
 forces sallied Dec. 10, 1876, against an invasion of cattle- 
 stealing Indians. The latter were routed and the eattle saved. 
 Here are railroad workshops employing 1000 men, and an 
 electric establishnuint supplying light for the eity and power 
 for the making of butter, cream, and ice. Land here is worth 
 more than ^1.00 a s(piare foot. 
 
 Fifteen kilometers from the town of Chacalniro is the 
 estancia San Oregorio esi)ccially devoted to raising Hereford 
 and Durham bulls, Lincoln sheep. Hackney, Morgan, anil 
 Clydesdale horses, collie dogs, terriers, and fowls of the
 
 21G THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Wyandotte, Plymouth Rock, Brahma, and other breeds. 
 Seven thousand doUars was paid by the owner for a single 
 bull. 
 
 Near Mercedes, a city of 15,000, is an estancia of 40,000 
 acres. This in addition to other blooded stock has many 
 race horses, now used for breeding, which formerly won fame 
 in Europe. For one of these the owner paid $150,000. 
 
 The station Open Door is so called from a remarkable gov- 
 ernmental establishment for healing the mentally diseased 
 by the outdoor system, work in the fields. 
 
 At Miiniz, 20 miles from Buenos Aires, there is a Campo 
 de Mayo, a field for military exercises, where reviews fre- 
 quently occur attracting many spectators. Close by is a 
 famous estancia, that of Norberto Quirno, 4200 acres, fenced 
 with wire, divided into 18 enclosures. Besides the pure 
 blooded cattle, acres of the finest fruit, and an elegant resi- 
 dence, there is a dove-cote, supplying 40 to 50 pairs of pigeons 
 daily. 
 
 The town, Hurlingham, 15 miles from the city, almost in 
 the suburbs, is much frequented by those athletically in- 
 clined. A hippodrome containing apparatus for physical 
 exercises is the scene of frequent hippie and athletic reunions 
 with large and distinguished crowds. There is a race track 
 of 2000 meters for horses, grounds for tennis, polo, cricket, 
 etc., with pavilions for spectators, restaurant, garage, stables, 
 and dog kennels. The whole, covering 22 squares, belongs 
 to a society with 6000 members. At the opening of the season 
 occurs an annual fete called Gymkliana. Among other 
 sports is a Whistling Race. In this, after 500 yards, men 
 must pause before a lady and whistle a tune, the name of 
 which she hands to him on paper. 
 
 In the real suburbs of Buenos Aires, at Villa Devoto, 10 
 miles from the city station, is a rifle range established by 
 the Italians, The field, 1000 meters long and 100 wide, has a 
 shooting gallery 550 meters long. Of the 30 targets 24 are 
 for guns at from 300 to 500 meters, and six for revolvers 
 at 10 meters. English societies have here tennis and golf 
 grounds. Among many chalets with fine gardens is one be- 
 longing to John A. Hall containing about 1500 varieties of 
 orchids. Of two asylums in the place, one called Umberto
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUENOS AIRES 217 
 
 Primo, was the gift of the philanthropist Antonio Devoto, 
 of which the cornerstone was hiid February, 11)04, l)y Prince 
 Lnigi tie Savoia, Duke of the Abruzzi. From tliis suburb a 
 tramway conducts to the city, passing on the way- a Dispen- 
 sary for the Tuberculous, and the National School of Agri- 
 culture and Veterinary, which was inaugurated Septemljcr, 
 1904. Continuing' by rail, one has on the left a glimpse of 
 the river, and on both sides, of the Palermo Park, before 
 reaching the station Retiro, a short distance from the center 
 of Buenos Aires. 
 
 This wonderful city, the Meti'opolis of South America, which in 
 the last half century has grown at a rate exceeded by few in the 
 United States, was iiounded as early as 1535 by Pedro de Mendoza; 
 but being- twice destroyed or abandoned on account of troubles with 
 the Indians, its pennanent settlement dates from 1580. For this 
 the honor belongs to Juan de Garay, Acting Governor of the Prov- 
 ince of which Asuncion was the capital. The latter city had 
 been founded in 153G by Juan de Ayolas, sent thither to discover a 
 way tlii'ough to the rich country of Peru. This colony, more fortu- 
 nate than Buenos Aires, endured, and for many years Asuncion 
 was the chief city of this part of South America. Several other 
 settlements were made in the present Argentine country before the 
 permanent establishment of Buenos Aires: Santiago de Estero in 
 1553; and within ten years thereafter, Mendoza, San Juan, and 
 Tucuman. 
 
 The name, Buenos Aires, dales from 15;{5 when Pedro de "Men- 
 doza, January G, inaugui'ated the city of Santa Maria de Buenos 
 Aires, in recognition of the sailors' devotion to Nuestra Senora del 
 Buen Aire, their especial patroness at Cadiz; tradition also has it 
 that on disembarking here one said to another. "Que buenos aires 
 son los de este suelo!" ''What good airs are there on this land!" 
 The town founded February 2, 1535, Avas i)racli('ally destroyed by 
 Indians and abandoned in 1541. In 15S0 Garay with sixty-three 
 colonists, provisions, tools, etc., coming from Asuncion, on dis- 
 embarking Sunday, June 11, 15S0, jiroceeded to an elevated spot, 
 where now is Parque Lezama. There he pmnounced in Spanish the 
 words, "City of the Trinity and Port of Santa Maria of Buenos 
 Aires, I baptize thee in the name of the Father, Son, and Holy 
 Ghost." All, saying Amen, then knelt to ask a blessing on the city 
 to be founded. Proceeding imrth to an oi)en space on the wooded 
 shore they fixed upon the ])resent Plaza de Mayo as the center of 
 the city and placed the lirst stone at the corner of Hivadavia and
 
 218 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 San Mint ill. The now city was arranged in sixteen squares from 
 north to soutli aloiij;- the river front, and in nine squares east to 
 west, with farms and j^aidens beyond. While the general trend of 
 the river and the shore on this side is northwest to southeast, the front 
 just here is almost due north and south, the Avenida de Mayo, at 
 right angles, therefore running east and west. 
 
 The growth of the city was slow, being much hampered by strange 
 regulations of the Mother Country. No commerce was permitted, 
 either imports or exports, hence smuggling became popular. While 
 the Viceroy at Lima was ruler of the entire country, his practical 
 authority was here small, the Audiencia in Charcas (now Sucre), 
 Bolivia, being in charge of the country east of the Andes. Subordi- 
 nate to this were the Roj^il Governors of the Provinces, always Span- 
 ish, while the cities w-ere ruled by Cabildos of from six to twelve 
 members who were natives or Creoles. These serving for life had 
 charge both of judicial and administrative matters. The troubles 
 with the Indians, and with the Portuguese who had settlements on 
 the opposite bank may be passed over, but those with the British 
 should be mentioned. At last, after about two hundred years, 
 Buenos Aires in 1776 had a Viceroy of her own and more liberal 
 government ; unfortunately too late to undo the evil which had 
 been wrought, although trade now flourished and the population 
 soon doubled. In June, 1806, a squadron under Admiral Popham, 
 and General Bei'esford Avith fifteen hundred men landed below Buenos 
 Aires then a city of about 40,000. The Viceroy fled and June 27 
 the British occupied the city. A French officer, Liniers, in Spanish 
 employ, procuring one thousand regular troops and some cannon 
 in Montevideo, approached the city and was joined at his camp by 
 many. The British on the advance of the army of Liniers, August 
 12, after hard street fighting, finally surrendered ; the British flags 
 then cai^tured are still preserved in Buenos Aires as trophies. 
 Four months later the British again came and with four thousand 
 troops captured Montevideo. General Whitelock approaching 
 Buenos Aires put to flight the army of Liniers which had come out 
 to meet him ; but on entering the city, July 5, stubborn street fighting 
 ensued, and after forcing their way to the barricaded Plaza and 
 losing in two days one-quarter of their men, the British agreed to 
 withdraw and to evacuate Montevideo within two months. 
 
 This experience inspired in the Argentines a feeling of self-re- 
 liance. Accordingly when Napoleon, after he had overrun the Span- 
 ish peninsula, demanded. May 22, 1810, the resignation of the new 
 Viceroy Cisneros, who had taken office in 1809, an armed assembly 
 came together in the Plaza and proclaimed the Cabildo supreme in 
 authority. While Acts were made in the name of Ferdinand VII,
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUENOS AIRES 219 
 
 the Spanish ruler of Castile and Leon, then in piiscin, this date is 
 regarded as that uf the dawn of Independenee. The Cahildu sent 
 armies in various direelions and hloody coiidjats ensued, several at 
 fii-st successful, then with varying results. There were long 
 troublous times, though Buenos Aires never again fell under for- 
 eign sway, and the sentiment of independence became tirmly estab- 
 lished by 1812. In this year returned from Europe the great 
 patriot, San Martin, who, through the labors of the histonan, 
 Bartolome j\Iitre, is now generally recognized as the savior of South 
 American lndei)endence. 
 
 San Martin, born, February 25, 177S, of a Creole mother and a 
 Spanish ollicer father in a small mission town of the Jesuits on the 
 Uruguay River, was taken to Spain at the age of eight years, edu- 
 cated in the best military schools, and served in many wars. Hav- 
 ing imbibed liberal ideas he returned to Buenos Aires in March, 
 1812, and later, with a chosen comj»any of the best youths, pro- 
 ceeded to Mendoza, where for three years he was forming and drill- 
 ing an army for the purpose of invading Chile. This he did in 
 January, 1817, the battle of Chacabuco, February 12, giving that 
 country its indejjendence. Going to Peru with his army in 1820, he 
 proceeded himself to meet Bolivar in Guayaquil. When the latter 
 rejected the cooperation proffered, San Martin gave up the army 
 which he had organized and withdrew to Buenos Aires, suffering 
 the imjnitation of cowardice without a word, and returning to Eu- 
 roj)e to live in reduced circumstances until his death at Boulogne 
 in 1850. 
 
 Independence was formally declared by a Congress in Tucuman, 
 July }), 181(). From 1812 to 18(i2 civil and other wars were fre- 
 quent. July 9, 1825, a National Constitution was adojiled, and in 
 182G, Rivadavia, a very able nuui, became the first President. The 
 gi'eatest constructive statesman of the period, he undertook to re- 
 form the laws and administration, created the University of Buenos 
 Aires, founded hospitals, etc., and engaged in war with lirazil, by 
 which Uruguay became indei>endent. But after a single year of 
 oflice, on account of dissensions, he resigned. In 1820, following 
 two years of strife, de Rosas became President and in 18:?5 Hic- 
 tator. His name and his tyranny are regarded with detestation. 
 Defeated June 8, 1852, by General Urquiza, he lied to tlie British 
 Legation and later to England. 
 
 In 18511 Buenos Aires was recognized as an inde]iendent state, 
 but in 1857 the Poitenos or harbor people, as the residents of the 
 city are called, under General B. Mitre were defeated by Cieneral 
 Urrpiiza and again joined the Confederation. In 18(il another bat- 
 tle occurred under the same generals with a victoiy for Mitre, who
 
 220 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 then became Pfesidont of (lie eiiiiro nation and by .yrantine: tbe 
 Provinces autonomy succeeded in ci'catin.n' better feelinfj^. In 1868 
 Dr. Sarmiento, a broad-minded scbolar, was peacefully elected and 
 did much to promote education and develop the nation's resources. 
 His successor, Dr. Avellaneda, had a more troublous term of otfice. 
 General Roea who followed, 1880, gained his position by hard fight- 
 ing:. He first declared the city the Federal District of the nation, 
 promoted railway extension, and put down dissensions. After Dr. 
 Celman had misgoverned for four years, Carlos Pellegrini finished 
 the six years' tenn in good fashion. Dr. Saenz Peiia followed in 
 18!)'2, but becoming unpopular, resigned; and the Vice President 
 filled out his administration. Another tenn for General Roca was 
 succeeded in 1904 by that of Dr. Quintana and after his death Dr. 
 Alcorta ; Dr. Roque Saenz Pefia, who took office in 1910, was followed 
 in 1916 by Hipolito Irigoyen. 
 
 Buenos Aires, the Metropolis of South America, re sembles 
 Chicago in being located on the level I'rontier o t a great 
 prairi e, and on the border of a large body of fresh water r gt 
 the same time it is like New Yo rk in being the chief seapor t 
 oT a yr eal nalloii. Th e so-cailect .kio de la Plata or La Plata 
 "Kiver is in reality more of an estuary; so wdde as to have 
 rather the effect of a bay or gulf. Formed by the union 
 of two rivers, the Parana and the Uruguay, the La Plata 
 basin is the second largest in the world, the flow of the river 
 being 80 per cent greater than that of the Mississippi. And 
 here let me make a feeble protest against the usage, general 
 among the English, and now copied in the United States, of 
 speaking of this w^ater as the River Plate. Was there ever 
 an uglier name in sound or sense ? Were there any difficulty 
 in saying La Plata there might be some excuse. True, one 
 is liable to commit a tautology by saying the La Plata River, 
 a repetition of the the in another language, but some sins are 
 worse, and one to my mind is changing Plata to Plate. Plata 
 means silver. Why not then call it the Silver River, if one 
 w^ould translate, or else say the Plata River ? I, at least, give 
 notice here that in this book it shall be properly called. The 
 first a of course has the sound of ah. 
 
 The river is here 28 miles wide, so that one does not see 
 the opposite shore except from a height such as the Capi tol 
 dome. It is 125 mileS lOng more or less, according to wlieT^ 
 you consider the ocean line, Buenos Aires being called about
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUEXOS AIRES 221 
 
 ]()() miles from tlic sea and 9U from Montevideo. The city, 
 bb leet above sea level, lias like Clneago {)lenly of room to 
 grow and has improved the opportunity to extend itself until 
 in area it is one of the largest cities in the world, three times 
 as large as Berlin, hut smaller than London or New York. 
 
 Its l)Opuhltion, according'' t o tlw- l:i^1 ■.ir-mimt^ i TIT^, il' almnt 
 
 {T^iillion and a lialf. Thus it is the fourth eity in the 
 Western Hemisphere and the second Latin city in the world. 
 At its present rate of gi'owth it will soon be crowding Paris; 
 some day, perhaps, it may become the first in population of the 
 cities founded and ruled by a Latin race.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 BUENOS AIRES 
 
 Hotels. Plaza, A. P., 12 pesos and up; Palace, a little more 
 moderate ; Grand, 12.50 and up ; Royal, 8-12 ; Majestic, 12 up ; Metro- 
 pole; Splendid; Caviezel, 8 up; Phoenix, 9-15; Albion. 
 
 Taxis: Automobiles, 50 ctvs., 8 blocks, 10 ctvs. eveiy 3 blocks 
 more; cabs, 40 ctvs., 10 blocks, 10 ctvs. evei*y 4 blocks more. 
 
 Postage: Letters, local 5 ctvs.; United States and Europe 12 ctvs. 
 
 Money. Argentine peso, 44 cents; dovible the Chilian peso. 
 
 Guide-book to the Argentine Republic by Albert B. Martinez, 
 valuable; in Spanish, French, and English. 
 
 Chief Points of Interest 
 
 The Plaza and the Avenida de Mayo, the Government Palace, 
 Capitol, Palace of Justice, Plaza San Martin, the Museum of Art, 
 Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Palermo Park, Hippodrome, 
 Colon Theater, Parque Lezama and National Historical Museum, 
 Recoleta Cemetery, the Docks, Frigorificos, Mercado de Frutos. 
 
 Tourists coming from ]\Iendoza will arrive at the Retire 
 Station. Outside are many cabs and taxis to convey the trav- 
 eler and small luggage to his hotel. The price of these seems 
 astonishingly cheap to a New Yorker, 50 civs, in a taxi for a 
 ride of 8 squares (baggage extra), and nearly all of the hotels 
 are within this distance. From the docks the ride may be 
 longer, according to where landing is made. The cab fare is 
 still less. The number of horses, one or two, makes no differ- 
 ence. The drivers have a habit, as elsewhere, especially at the 
 station, of demanding more than their fee, particularly on 
 Sunday ; so it may be as well to say nothing, take the first car- 
 riage offered and pay what is due with a small tip and no re- 
 marks, and something additional for baggage. Trunks should 
 be arranged for with an agent of the express company, 
 Expreso Villalonga, either at the station, or after reaching 
 
 222
 
 BUENOS AIRES 223 
 
 your hotel, if that is not already decided upon. The hotel 
 porter will attend to it if you hand liini your checks. The 
 tourist may find it still more convenient to arranpre in Santiaj2:o 
 or Valparaiso with the Expreso Villalonga to take charge of 
 his baggage from his hotel there and deliver it at the hotel in 
 Buenos Aires to which he expects to go. Tims he will 
 have no bother at all except to receive his check at the station 
 from the expressman and pay what is due for overweight. 
 
 Unlike the cities previously visited, as might he expected 
 from its size, a wide choice of accommodations is here of- 
 fered. Hotels galore and lodging houses as well are to be 
 found, though perhaps not a room at the desired hostelry 
 unless engaged in advance: not always even then, if reports 
 are true of certain establishments. There are all kinds of 
 prices except very cheap, for this is quite another world from 
 the West Coast, and excej)t as to carriages, prices compare 
 with those o f New York. 
 
 'frie tirst choice of the ultra fashionable and Avealthy is 
 likely to be the Hotel Plaza, unless a new one promised to 
 be still finer should already be completed. At the Plaza, 
 barely two blocks from the station, a room may l)e had on 
 either the American or the European plan. The lowest price 
 for the latter is ten pesos (.ii4.40) a day — and from that far 
 up, doubtless 30 or 40 pesos or more for suites with bath. 
 Meals are in proportion. The location is good, on the hand- 
 some Plaza San ^Martin, and very near the river, the Amer- 
 ican Legation is close by — but it is quite a distance, 11 blocks, 
 from the Avenida de jNlayo, the principal avenue, and many 
 Avill prefer a hotel in the heart of the city on tliis handsome 
 and busy thoroughfare, or one within a few blocks of it. Tiie 
 other hotels are somewhat lower priced and by many regarded 
 as more comfortable and agreeable. The Plaza, under the 
 management of the world famed Hitz Carlton people, is 
 naturally the grand affair that one would ex|)ect, the i>omiM)us, 
 unirormed liritish attendants easily leading one within to 
 fancy himself in London. 
 
 The Palace Hotel, before the erection of the IMaza, regarded 
 as the first in the city, is a large edifice, property of Nicolas 
 I^Iihanovieh, the noted steamboat num. This tine strueture, 
 two blocks from the Plaza dc Mayo, fronts on three streets,
 
 224 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the 25th of May, Cangallo, and the Paseo de Julio, many rooms 
 thus looking upon the Paseo, a fine boulevard and parkway, 
 and out over the docks to the river. On this side there are 
 five stories, with an observation tower at the corner 150 feet 
 high for the use of the Mihauovich Company, and containing 
 a powerful electric light. The offices of the company are on 
 the ground floor of the building. The hotel has an imposing 
 entrance with a monumental stairway (also elevators) lead- 
 ing to the main floor. Here is a hall of the Louis XIV style, 
 and a luxurious dining-room of the Empire fashion with 
 white and gold ceiling. All floors are heated and there is a 
 telephone in every room or suite, conveniences and elegance 
 of all kinds. Above there is a roof garden (a favorite resort 
 on summer evenings) adorned with exotic plants, and a sum- 
 mer dining-room which affords charming views. 
 
 Other hotels, older and equally popular, are the Grand 
 and the Royal, comfortable, even luxurious, much patronized 
 by English-speaking folk. The Grand, built in 1900, on 
 Florida and Rivadavia, is in the very heart of the city and by 
 some called noisy ; the Royal at the corner of Corrientes and 
 Esmeralda is a few blocks distant. At the former the price 
 for room and board with bath privilege is from 12.50 pesos 
 a day; the Royal is less expensive, 8-12 pesos a day. 
 
 On the Avenida, which means always the Avenida de Mayo, 
 are the Hotels Splendid, Metropole, Paris, Majestic, Ca- 
 viezel's New Hotel, all of the first rank with pension prices 
 from 10 or 12 pesos up. Also on the Avenue near the Plaza 
 de Mayo is the Hotel Nwevo, said when built to have been the 
 acme of elegance. The Phoenix, San Martin 780, more quiet 
 and less pretentious than some of the others, is an excellent 
 hotel, much patronized by English. The Savoy, a fine new 
 hotel in Avenida Callao corner of Cangallo, is one of the best, 
 comparing with first class establishments in Europe. One 
 preferring lower prices will find good board and rooms at 
 the Pension- Caviezel for from 7 to 9 or more pesos daily 
 (elevator), an excellent location on the Avenida, Rivadavia 
 and Esmeralda (painfully neat, some one said, which is 
 hardly a fault), a Swiss proprietor; another pension of the 
 same name is at the next corner, with prices a little higher. 
 At the Hotel Albion on the Avenue rooms and board may be
 
 A\ 1,M1>A I'l. \1 \1 •
 
 BUENOS AIRES 225 
 
 obtained, cheaper but less attractive, and furnished rooms 
 elsewhere at 2-4 pesos a day, according to style and location. 
 
 Comfortably settled in a good hotel, what is first to be 
 done? I should say, after morning coffee take a stroll around 
 the center of the city, down the Avenue, turning to tlic left 
 on Florida with a glance at the shop windows, down Cangallo 
 to Reconquista and the Plaza at the right. If time is short 
 begin at once sight-seeing there, the center of the old and 
 new city, a historic site for nearly four centuries. Called 
 by Garay, Plaza Grande or Mayor, containing 8 acres or 
 more, it is now Plaza dc Mayo. The center, regarded as the 
 Altar of the Country, has been occupied by a modest monu- 
 ment, an obelisk called the Pyramid of ^fay, comnu'inoi-at- 
 ing the Revolution of 1810. For this, excavation was made 
 in April, 1811. This will now be replaced by a great 
 and worthy monument on the same spot to the same 
 event, voted by the centenary commission to the com- 
 peting artists, Gaetano ^loretti and Luis Brizzolara. 
 The splendid marble monument, liaving a base 150 feet 
 square, will be a trifle taller, the base supporting a 
 colossal obelisk 115 feet high, upon which will stand a 
 group of statuary, the apotheosis of the Argentine flag: a 
 figure representing the New Nation waving the sacred ban- 
 ner, preceded by Progress crushing down Ignorance and 
 Pre.judice, and acclaimed by Revolution, Justice, and the 
 People. Other statues and reliefs will be used in decoration. 
 An interesting innovation will l)e a large chaml)er within the 
 monument to be used as a museum and to contain as a first 
 relic the actual Pyramid of ^lay, the first memento of the 
 glorious dawn of lil)erty. Tliis monument which was ex- 
 pected to be in position in U)l<i had not then appeared. 
 
 Of other monuments already decorating tlic Plaza, one 
 erected in 1906 faces the Avenue, a fine group of marble por- 
 traying a figure, the Cihj uf litK iios Air(S, l)eing crowned 
 by Progress; a child, the Future, observing the act. Towards 
 the other end of the Plaza, the east, is an ('([uestrian statue 
 of General Manuel Behjrano, one of the first Council of (iov- 
 ernment, appointed by the Corporation of the City, .May 25, 
 1810; lie was afterwards a commander of Argejitine trooi)s,
 
 226 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 gaining victories at Tucuinan and Salta, in 1812 and '13, 
 later sufferin<>: defeat in Bolivia, after which he resigned the 
 command to San Martin. The rest of the Plaza is occupied 
 by gardens, walks, and fountains. Occasionally there is 
 music. 
 
 At the southwest corner of the Plaza is the ancient Cahildo 
 where met, May 22, 1810, on the upper floor, a popular 
 assembly which declared the authority of the Viceroy incom- 
 patible with public tranquillity. May 25 the Cabildo ap- 
 pointed a Junta or Council of Government with Don Cornelio 
 Saavedra as President. The Viceroy having already with- 
 drawn to avoid bloodshed, the Council took the oath the same 
 afternoon ; Saavedra addressed the people from a balcony 
 with an appeal for order and harmony. Thus the revolution 
 triumphed without bloodshed, and from here spread to other 
 sections, where long struggle was necessary ; to Argentina, the 
 success in all the countries south of Ecuador was largely due. 
 
 The most imposing structure on the Plaza is the Govern- 
 ment Palace on the east. On this spot in 1595 the construc- 
 tion of a fort was begun ; but it was 1718-1720 before a con- 
 siderable fortress was erected, whose w^alls remained till 1853. 
 They were then demolished for a custom house, which in 
 1894 was destroyed to make room for the present palace. 
 This great brick edifice, 400 feet long and 250 deep, with 
 two wings of slightly difiPerent form, constructed at different 
 periods, contains offices of the President of the Republic and 
 of the various Ministers, of the Interior, of Foreign Relations 
 and Worship, of Finance, of Justice and Public Instruction, 
 of Agriculture, of Public Works {Hacienda), of AVar and 
 Marine. In the building are several libraries, the most im- 
 portant that of the Ministry of Foreign Relations (State 
 Department), where in iron cases are the treaties with foreign 
 nations since 1811, some of these, real works of art, superbly 
 engrossed on parchment with enormous wax seals. The en- 
 trance on the north side gives access to two large and elegant 
 salons where receptions and banquets are given by the Presi- 
 dent, his official residence occupying this end of the building. 
 The banquet salon, richly furnished in Louis XV style, con- 
 tains a central chandelier, a notable work of art made in the 
 country by Azaretto. There is also a fine marble figure rep-
 
 BUENOS AIRES 227 
 
 resenting the Argentine Republic, and there are busts of the 
 various Presidents. Within the building are several patios 
 and pleasant reception rooms. Sentinels al)Ound, but the 
 doors are open and on business days at the usual hours the 
 building is accessible to the public. On feast days, if neces- 
 sary, permits to enter may be obtained from the Superin- 
 tendent of the Palace. 
 
 On the north side of the Plaza, coming from the Palace, 
 one first reaches the Chamber of Commerce, in 1885 estab- 
 lished in its present edifice, though inaugurated as a Balsa 
 de Comer cio in 1854 with 118 members. It has now above 
 4000, and is a very important establishment. Operations in 
 1909 amounted to 328 million pesos. Their new building in 
 the Paseo de Julio was finished in 1916. The same year tlie 
 Clearing House account for banks was 41/2 billion pesos. 
 
 In the same block at the corner of Reconquista is the 
 Bank of the Argentine Nation, the most powerful institution 
 in the Republic. Founded in 1902 with a debt of 50 million 
 pesos in bills emitted as its capital, thanks to a rigid organic 
 law, excellent administration, and the honesty of its directors, 
 it has become a great financial power. In October, 1908, the 
 capital was increased by $17,800,000 gold. As a Bank of 
 the State, no dividends are made, the annual profit of fifty 
 per cent being converted into gold reserve and added to the 
 capital. January 1, 1910, the capital was 113 million pesos, 
 the reserve 39 millions gold. The bank in 1910 had 121 
 branches in the provinces and 8 agencies, mostly in tlieir own 
 buildings, making easy the commercial transactions for cattle 
 and agi'iculture, in contrast to our own difficultit's. due to 
 the silly prejudice against a Central Bank, so scrvicrablc in 
 all other countries. It performs all the operations of other 
 banks, these in 1909 amounting to 645 million pesos. 
 
 At the west end of the noi-th side is the Cathtdrnl, on the 
 spot selected by Garay for the church in 1580, when a sim|)le 
 structure with mud walls and tluitdied roof served the pur- 
 pose. An edifice with arches in the present form w;is brgnn 
 in 1701, but the f;i<:a(lt' in imitation of the Madrh-in.- in I'aris 
 was l)uilt in the tinu' of Rivadavia by tiie architfct Catrlin. 
 The great semi-spherical donu\ covered on tlio outside with 
 blue and white squares in the Spanish style, is a contrast to
 
 228 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tlie otlier roofs. The interior has a central nave, two aisles 
 and a transept, well proportioned except for the great thick- 
 ness of the pillars. The side chapels are not of especial im- 
 portance save the third on the right, the sepulcher of the 
 great San Martin, liberator of Chile and Peru, a patriot whose 
 purity of motive, possibly his ability, equaled that of Wash- 
 ington, though he was far less happy in the contemporary 
 appreciation of his services; not until after his death receiv- 
 ing his merited honors. The octagonal chapel is effectively 
 lighted from a small dome above. Four marble plaques bear 
 the names Lima, Chacabuco, San Lorenzo, and Maipu, re- 
 minding of his glorious deeds. In the center a bronze 
 sarcophagus containing the ashes of the hero has several 
 pediments upon a broad marble base which bears also four 
 marble blocks. On three of these stand marble statues, in 
 front, that of Liberty, at the sides. Labor, and Commerce. 
 The block in the rear carries laurels and palms only, with 
 a bas relief representing the battle of Maipu. In front are 
 the arms of Argentina, at the sides those of Peru and Chile. 
 On the right stands a bust of the great patriot, the whole 
 forming a worthy, artistic, and most impressive monument. 
 
 On the west side of the Plaza at the corner of the Avenida, 
 with entrance on the latter, is the Municipal Palace or City 
 Hall, where the Executive Department of the City Govern- 
 ment has been located since 1892, the Deliberative Council 
 meeting at Peru 272. The Intendente or Mayor is appointed 
 for two years by the President with the approval of the 
 Senate, and may be re-appointed. The Deliberative Council 
 of 22 is also named by the President, as the elections formerly 
 held gave poor results. On the other side of the Avenue are 
 the Civil Courts. 
 
 The Avenida de IMayo, in front of the Capitol, extends 
 from the Plaza de INIayo a little more than a mile to the 
 Plaza, about 100 feet wide, paved with asphalt, lined with 
 trees, and with a row of posts for electric lights in the center. 
 Cut through the block between Rivadavia, originally the main 
 street, and Victoria, the next street south, at a cost of ten mil- 
 lion pesos, it was opened for traffic July 9, 1894. It is consid- 
 ered by some the finest street on tliis hemisphere, others prefer 
 the Avenida Rio Brauco in Rio. while all wdio admire sky-
 
 BUENOS AIRES 229 
 
 scrapers will insist that it is not to be compared to Fifth Ave- 
 nue. Adjoining the City Ilall, is seen on the right the splen- 
 did edifice erected by Dr. Jose C. Paz for La Prcnsa. As 
 the finest newspaper buikling in the world for tiie sole use 
 of a single publication, it should be visited by every traveler, 
 though only certain parts are open for inspection. There 
 are five sloi'ies above ground and two below, the su))-l)as('inent 
 containing the electric fixtures and the paper storage room. 
 On the next floor is the machinery, presses, etc., with a room 
 at the back 120 feet long and 25 deep for the distribution 
 of papers. On the ground floor on the Avenida are the 
 bureaus of administration, as for advertising, etc., and the 
 museum; while fronting on Rivadavia are rooms for free 
 consultation with physicians and lawyers. One flight up, a 
 long one, for ceilings are high, but there is a good elevator, 
 are the handsome rooms of the chief editors. A fine salon 
 with luxurious appointments, furniture upholstered in 
 leather, sofas and armchairs, and a heavy carved table, is 
 the reception room, where gentlemanly attendants in uniform 
 are at your service, — a contrast indeed to the dingy liall- 
 ways where people are kept, by often pert youtlis, from 
 entering tlue sacred though bare and noisy quarters of the 
 editorial staff of some of our great and wealthy journals. 
 On the other side of the large i)atio is a handsomely deeorated 
 hall seating 500, with fui-niture of red and gol<l. On the 
 next floor are various editorial rooms, on the fourth luxurious 
 apartments for the entertainment of distinguished guests 
 from abroad. At the top are rooms for pliotogi-ajthy. com- 
 posing, etc. On the turret is a statue holding a powerful 
 electric light, the rays of which are visible to a great dis- 
 tance. The editor of this great newspaper, wliicli. like its 
 building in some i-espects, for instance, in liie amount of its 
 tclegi'aphic despatches, is superior to any in the I'nited 
 States, is Dr. Adolfo E. Davila, who has held the otTliee since 
 1877. To him the paper owes a large share of its |)rogress 
 which is deemed wortiiy of its palatial setting. 
 
 In the same block is one of the fine depai'lmcnt stores of 
 Gath & (!haves, wliich company occupies several other large 
 buildings on Florida, one of the best in tlie city. At iV.V.\ is 
 the fine building of the Progreso or Progress (Mub. Opposite
 
 230 THE SOrTII A]\rERICAN TOUR 
 
 is the Diario biiildinn^, vvliicli in 1911 had just Ix-fn afflicted 
 with a fire. The Diario is an important paper, witli morning 
 and afternoon editions. Tlie Razon, farther along on the 
 same side, is a leading afternoon paper. Along the way are 
 many hotels and other business structures. Some of the 
 buildings, like the Prensa, are almost covered with electric 
 light bulbs, when lighted producing a brilliant spectacle. 
 
 At the upper end of this splendid avenue, beyond a large 
 Plaza, is the Capitol, strongly reminiscent of the one in 
 Washington, but none the worse for that. The plans were 
 by the late Victor Meano ; the cost was $9,000,000. It may be 
 mentioned in passing that the Plaza in front was constructed 
 for the celebration of the Centenary in the short space of 
 90 days; four solid blocks of buildings were torn down, 
 gi'ound was filled in, leveled, and grassed, walks were laid, 
 trees, shrubs, and flowers planted, fountains with colored 
 waters, obelisks, candelabra, and statues were erected, and all 
 done at a cost of $5,000,000, in time to receive their guests 
 in 1910. And ive call South Americans slow! A monument 
 to the first Argentine Congress has been added and a statue 
 of Mariano Moreno, a leader in the Revolution of 1810. 
 
 The central facade of the Capitol, setting a trifle back from 
 the line of the projecting wings, is adorned with a fine portico 
 and approached by a stately staircase having on each side an 
 equestrian statue. The central dome is a remarkable work, 
 the pillars supporting it covering 300 square meters. To 
 sustain the weight of 30,000 tons, the foundations were laid 
 30 feet deep, and an inverted dome of stone was fixed. __No____ 
 one should fail to visit the top of the great dome, which pro- 
 vides a splendid view over the city and the broad rirer-; or 
 the TMgnifrcenTIy~'Turnished reception halls and legislative — — 
 cTiambers. The Senate Chamber, affanged'Tor'but 30 mem- 
 "bers, IS a small room though provided with two galleries. The 
 larger Chamber of Deputies has three rows of galleries, the 
 first for the diplomatic corps with an especial reservation for 
 ladies, some of whom come to hear the debates. The acoustics 
 are said to be poor and the heating inadequate. There are 
 conference rooms, a library, rooms for secretaries, etc. The 
 Houses regularly meet from May 1 to the end of September, 
 but the sessions are usually prolonged until January by
 
 THE CAPITOL PLAZA, BrEXOS AIRES 
 
 PALEHMO I'AllK
 
 BUENOS AIRES 231 
 
 Executive Decree. The Deputies meet Monday, Wednesday, 
 and Friday at three, the Senate on the alternate daVs. The 
 Chamber of Deputies, seini-circuhir in form, has VIO seats 
 besides eight for the ^linisters, here admitted to their delib- 
 erations. There is a platform for the President and two 
 secretaries. Behind the Presidential chair is a portrait of 
 Valentin Alsina. 
 
 J^"lo\v the platform is a table for stenographers, two of 
 whom write a report of the proceedings, published the 
 day following. ]\Iembers speak from their places receiv- 
 ing polite attention, especially noticeable in comparison with 
 the practice in Assemblies of older nations. There is Jio 
 division of seats for political parties, nor special garb for 
 President or JNIinisters. Each Deputy has a desk with writing 
 material. For each 33,000 people, and for an additioiud half 
 as many more, one Deputy is elected for four years, receiving 
 a salary of 18,000 pesos. p]very two years one half of the 
 House is renewed. The Senate Chamber also has seats for 
 the JMinisters. The Vice President, according to the Consti- 
 tution, is the presiding officer. Strangers of distinction de- 
 siring 1.3 visit the sessions of Congress may obtain from the 
 Secretary cards of admission to the galleries. 
 
 The characteristic of the city first obvious is its extreme 
 neatness, in strong contrast to our chief cities; then the nar- 
 row streets of the business section and the absence of sky- 
 scrapers, each of which will seem to Americans generally an 
 evidence of backwardness and provincialism. The former 
 certainly is a great defect, inherited from coh)nial liiiu-s, 
 which the officials of recent days have been and still are 
 endeavoring to remedy. As the widening of all the streets 
 at once was obviously impossible, to relieve the congestion 
 of traffic and to beautify the city, the Avenida de ^layo was 
 constructed. Two diagonals, to be cut from the north- and 
 south-west corners of liie I'la/.a de Mayo tlirough the busiest 
 parts of the city, in 1916 liad been completed for one block. 
 Although the streets in the center are only 33 feet wide, 
 since the buildings have mostly but two or three stories, 
 they do not lack air and light, as in so many of the streets 
 of New York; the height of all buildings being limited 
 according to the width of the street on wliieli it stands, an
 
 232 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 excellent and necessary rule. All of these narrow central 
 streets are one way tiioronp^lifares, both for cars and other 
 vehicles. Natty policemen stand, not at a few, but at dozens 
 of busy corners, regulating traffic. Delays in traffic which 
 were formerly common seem now to be less frequent than 
 in previous years. It may be mentioned that the city has, 
 in proportion to the inhabitants, twice as many policemen 
 as New York, generally courteous and obliging. In order 
 to help a little, the corners of many buildings and side- 
 walks have been chopped off in accordance with a law pro- 
 mulgated some years ago, though long not strictly enforced. 
 IMany of these old streets will be widened in time, as new 
 buildings must be set 10 or 12 feet farther back, a temporary 
 disfigurement, ultimately of great advantage. West of the 
 Capitol all streets are wider. New ones must have a breadth 
 of at least 60 feet. In the newer sections are many beautiful 
 broad avenues, the Santa Fe and Alvear in some respects 
 surpassing the Avenida. There is an excellent service of 
 electric cars, one writer says the best on this hemisphere, 
 already supplemented by a subway which has been opened 
 from the Plaza de Mayo to Plaza 11 de Setembro. This one 
 completed, others will be promptly begun ; not as in New 
 York ten years after they should have been finished. For in 
 Buenos Aires, packing like sardines is not permitted, as will 
 be discovered, perhaps with indignation, when a car marked 
 completo passes without a pause, and one has to wait several 
 minutes for a second or a third. Within, all are comfortable, 
 the seats, each for two, facing the front with an aisle between, 
 where no one is allowed to stand ; on the broad rear platform 
 six only are permitted. With carriages so cheap, anyone in 
 a hurry can easily afford to patronize them. The cars with 
 large figures in front, as in Chile, a fashion which might well 
 be introduced in our cities, are easily distinguished ; the hotel 
 porters and the policemen are usually able to tell you two 
 or three numbers of the several ears which may take you to 
 your destination, and the points at which these are to be 
 found. Also a little red guide book, Guia Peiiser, purchas- 
 able for 10 ccntavos, will give all necessary information as to 
 railwa3^s and electric cars, carriage tariffs, etc. 
 
 An afternoon drive may be taken in auto, car, or carriage.
 
 BUENOS AIRES 233 
 
 Setting out in good season, one may first traverse a few 
 streets in the center of the city, the fashional)h.^ Flori(hi to 
 Plaza San ]\Iartin, returning by Recon(|uista tn tlie Piaza de 
 Mayo, cross down to Parcjue 9th of July below the govern- 
 ment Palace, then go by Paseo de Julio and Avenue Alvear 
 to Parque 3rd of February, commonly called Palermo. After 
 a drive in the park return may be made by Santa Fe and 
 Callao to the Capitol building and ui)per end of the Avenue, 
 or by other streets past the Reeoleta, the Aguas Corrientes, 
 etc. 
 
 The calle Florida, distinguished by having no car tracks, is 
 par excellence the fashiona])le promenade of the city, especially 
 between four and seven p. in. when it is closed to all vehicles. 
 Here may be found many of the most fashionable shops, 
 beginning with Gath & Chaves extending from the Avenue to 
 Rivadavia ; though to ])e accurate, this is on Peru instead of 
 Florida, the old Rivadavia street being the dividing line 
 where the names change and the numbering each way begins, 
 instead of the Avenue as would seem more natural. Besides 
 many of the best shops, there are on Florida many fine resi- 
 dences, among these one between B. ]\Iitre aiul Cangallo be- 
 longing to the Guerrero family; one on the left in the Louis 
 XV style between Corrientes and Lavalle, the home of Juan 
 Pena ; opposite is that of Juan Cobo. Beyond Lavalle on the 
 right is the magnificent home of the Jocliy Club, soon to be 
 abandoned for a larger and still more costly establishment. 
 This Club, noted as probably the richest in the worhl, with 
 an entrance fee of £300, nearly .$1500, yet having a consider- 
 able waiting list, receives so large an income from the receipts 
 at the races that it hardly knows what to do with it. Its pres- 
 ent edifice has a noticea])le facade, a fine entrance hall and 
 staircase, on the first landing a famous Diana sculptured by 
 Falguieres. Corinthian colunuis, ornamentation of onyx, 
 ivory, and azul are part of the decoration. A fine ban(|uet 
 hall, various dining-rooms, luxui-ioiis di-awing and leading 
 rooms, rooms for cards, billiards, lencing, baths, etc., and a 
 few to which ladies are admitted with a memlter for afternoon 
 tea, unite to make this the ecpial of any Clubhouse in the 
 world. Beautiful paintings and other expensive luxuries, 
 like tapestries and carving, contribute to the elegance of the
 
 234 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 establishment. On moving from their present quarters to the 
 much larger and more splendid structure now being erected 
 near the Plaza San jMartin, the Club will present this edifice 
 to the Government to be occupied by the Department of 
 State. 
 
 Beyond on the same side between Viamonte and Cordoba, 
 a large building with arcades, covered by a glass roof, occu- 
 pies the entire square. This, called the Bon Marche, is used 
 mainly as an office building and contains some Bureaus of 
 various ]Ministries. Formerly the National ^Museum and the 
 Academy of Fine Arts were here located, but the Museum 
 or Gallery now occupies a fine building on Plaza San Martin, 
 with the Academy adjoining. The Florida leads to this Plaza, 
 one of the handsomest of the city, surrounded by many splen- 
 did edifices, adorned with large trees, flowers, shrubbery ; and 
 at the upper end an equestrian Statue of San Martin. The 
 Art Museum is at the east end of the north side ; farther west 
 are stately residences, as also on the south side. Here, 
 between Florida and ]\Iaipu is the office of the United States 
 Legation, easily distinguishable by the United States Coat 
 of Arms above the door, should the flag not be floating from 
 the projecting staff. Happily in the South American coun- 
 tries visited, the legations are all suitably housed, though it 
 is said that at least one Minister of ours to Argentina paid 
 more for his house rent in Buenos Aires than his entire salary. 
 It is obviously not a position to be sought at present by a 
 man with only his talents to recommend him. Returning by 
 Reconquista one would pass many fine business blocks, includ- 
 ing banks. 
 
 Driving past the Government Palace and turning down to 
 the left, we come to the Parque 9th of July in the rear of 
 the palace, from which we proceed again north on the way 
 to Palermo. Buenos Aires boasts of 74 parks and plazas 
 altogether, with an extent of 10 million square meters. The 
 9th of July is modeled after the Champs Elysees, having a 
 broad avenue with gardens of the Renaissance style on each 
 side. It begins at the south Avith a half circle in which a 
 statue, probably Rivadavia, was to be placed. In the middle 
 is a circle with an artistic fountain by the French sculptor 
 Moreau, and at the north end, opposite Cangallo, is a pretty
 
 BUENOS AIRES 235 
 
 fountain by an Argentine artist, Lola ^lora. Along the way 
 are caies, restaurants, and concert halls. 
 
 Proceeding along the Pasco de Julio, with its line of shrubs 
 and tlowers, one may continue by the fine Avenue Alvtar 
 through the most fashionable quarter of the city. The Ave- 
 nue, bordered with flowering trees and palms, is lined with 
 I^alatial mansions, in the midst of beautiful grounds and 
 gardens. At the fashionable hour this avenue is filled with 
 vehicles, rented victorias, the stately carriages of the resi- 
 dents, and many automobiles, which although numerous have 
 not yet seemed to lessen the nudtitude of carriages. 
 
 Almost too soon the Park is reached, its formal title, the 
 Zrd of February^ recalling the defeat of the tyrant Rosas in 
 1852 by General Urquiza with an army of soldiers from Ar- 
 gentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, Rosas then fleeing to an Eng- 
 lish ship and to permanent exile, lie formerly resided on 
 the site of the Round Point. This park covering 3,677,000 
 square meters corresponds to Central Park, New York, or 
 Hyde Pai'k, London, though it is more at one side, l)eing on 
 the border of La Plata River. The many beautiful, shaded 
 avenues are, on the dias de moda or days of fashion, thronged 
 with carriages before or after dinner according to the season, 
 when thousands of people may be seen enjoying the spectacle 
 as well as the fresh air, the ladies displaying magniflcent 
 toilets for the pleasure of all beholders. 
 
 The drive should be continued to the lake, where the 
 charming pagoda-like Restaurant of the Lake will be admired. 
 At cei'tain times and seasons, it is ciuite the tiling to enjoy lu-re 
 at the price of three pesos, a cup of afternoon tea, etc., to the 
 accompaniment of a good orchestra. At a kiosk on the round 
 l)oint of the lake. La Granja Blanea offers for refreshment 
 sterilized milk and other dairy products. Not far distant 
 is the Ixestaunnil ralcrnto, to which i)ei-sons wishing to dine 
 there are gratuitously conveyed from tiie center of the city. 
 Excellent entertainment Avith good orchestral music is said 
 to be provided at a moilerate i)riee for this city. 
 
 AVitliin the area of the park are included enclosures for 
 various sports. Close to the lake is the ground of the Cricket 
 Club with chiefly English mend)ers. Enclosed by the ave- 
 nues Pampa, Oinbu, Alsina, and Palomar, covering a space of
 
 236 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 about 125 acres, are the Golf Links of the Argentine Club, 
 Avitli a course of 5300 yards. A Gymnastic and Fencing Club 
 possesses a fine court for their exercises, where much fre- 
 quented contests are often held, as also in the bicycle track. 
 The northwest end of the Park is occupied by a Rifle Range, 
 covering 10,000 square meters. An imposing facade is flanked 
 by two towers 60 feet high, from which a magnificent pan- 
 orama may be witnessed. Three large gateways with glazed 
 iron doors open into a vestibule 80 feet long, from which two 
 doorways lead to the shooting galleries, 300 feet long and 20 
 wide; 38 targets all double and movable give ample oppor- 
 tunity for shooting, eight at a distance of 150 feet for revolver 
 practice, twenty at 1200, and ten at 1600 feet, for rifle shoot- 
 ing. Shields of iron and banks of earth give protection 
 against poor shots. Admission is free and any one by pay- 
 ing for the cartridges will be supplied with arms and allowed 
 to practice to his heart's content. Contests both national 
 and international are frequently organized. 
 
 Near the rifle range is the great hippodrome. Beyond it, 
 outside the park, is a field of 30 acres belonging to the Argen- 
 tine Sporting Association. This contains a track of 3500 feet 
 for trotting races with sulkies, and one of 3200 feet for ob- 
 stacle races with hurdles, fences, and ditches of w'ater. The 
 space in the center of the course is used for polo and football. 
 Clubs from Uruguay and South Africa have participated in 
 games held here by the Argentine Football League. 
 
 The glimpse now gained of the Argentine Hippodrome will 
 incite to a visit on one of the gala days, Thursday and Sun- 
 clay, when many will enjoy a display superior to anything 
 of the sort previously witnessed. Nothing in the United States 
 approaches it. While some Americans asserted that this was 
 the finest Racing Ground in the world, a gentleman of Buenos 
 Aires stated that it hardly equaled Longcliamps, However, 
 the buildings here are superior. The spectators are accom- 
 modated in a row of great white stands, that for the especial 
 use of the members of the Jockey Club and their families being 
 largely of white marble and capped with a graceful roofing. 
 Behind the upper rows of seats is a spacious promenade with 
 tables for afternoon tea, and farther back large and well ap- 
 pointed club rooms.
 
 .i.\ ( I.I I, - 1 AM), iiiri'<ii)H'iMr. 
 
 CENTENNIAL, KXI'U.SITION, III UAL .HOCIKTV
 
 BUENOS AIRES 237 
 
 Worthy of attention is the long series of other white buihl- 
 ings, elaborate and si)aeions, for all recjuired purposes, also 
 the space enclosed by tlie track: not the usual bare fiehl l)ut 
 a plat decorated with flower beds, greenery, and rivulets 
 crossed by little white bridges. There are three traeks one 
 inside another, the outermost a mile and three quarters in 
 lenyth. The grounds outside the track are eml)i'llish('d with 
 flowers, lawns, and trees, the eucalyptus, pines, and i)aliiis; 
 an excellent band discourses music; while a throng of gaily 
 dressed people, the men (at least the Argentines) in fault- 
 less attire, the ladies in elegant Parisian costumes with a lib- 
 eral display of jewelry, contribute to the brilliant spet-tacle. 
 
 The season is a long one, continuing from ^lareh 4 to 
 December 30, with 56 regular functions. The races are of 
 a high order (tlie riders generally Argentine), the most im- 
 portant being for the Jockey Club Prize and the Cup of 
 Honor in September, the National Prize and the Carlos Pelle- 
 grini in October. These are the true Society events, the 
 dates varying slightly with the year. On these occasions the 
 throng is so groat that movement is inipossi])k'. In 1905 
 the winner of the National Prize received .$27,()()0 and tlie 
 sale of tickets reached $346,000. In the year 3906, the betting 
 at two 2>>ei'0.s a ticket was equal to $20,000,000. Persons of 
 distinction or with influential friends nuiy be able to proi-ure 
 an invitation to the official stand. For seven pesos, tickets 
 may be purchased admitting to everything except that, or for 
 two pesos to the old stand and four to the new. 
 
 To attend the races one may go by train, every five minutes, 
 from Retiro Station, by tram (15 cfrs.) marked Carn'res 
 from Parque de Julio, by taxi, or earriai^e as may l)c ar- 
 ranged for the afternonii. 
 
 An object in the Park of csix'cial iiilcrest to Americans is 
 a beautiful bronze statue of Wasliiuiiton, erected at a cost of 
 about $15,000 by Americans resident in Buenos Aires and 
 presented to the Argentine (iovernment as a nicmoi-ial of the 
 lOOth annivcrsarv of tlicii' indt'ixMulcncc.
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 BUENOS AIRES— CONTINUED 
 
 Leaving Palermo Park by the broad Ave. Sarraiento, one 
 has on the left the Zoological Garden; on the right, a feature 
 of Argentine life of the highest importance, the buildings and 
 grounds of the Rural Society, granted by the Government to 
 the Society for the annual agricultural and cattle shows. 
 Upon grounds which cover 180,000 square meters are fine pa- 
 vilions for various purposes ; stables accommodating 500 horses 
 or cattle, park room for 736, a roofed space for 3500 sheep, 
 an enclosure of 4500 square meters as show ground, with two 
 stands seating 2000 persons. There are three large pavilions 
 and others smaller for the display of agricultural machinery 
 and products, and an immense kiosk for the products of the 
 dairy. The exhibitions, occurring in the months of Sep- 
 tember and October, concluding v.-ith horse races, are a social 
 event. In order to appreciate the leading position in such 
 matters held by Argentina, one must attend one of these ex- 
 positions, so well conducted as to have attained a degree of 
 perfection unsurpassed in the world in the number and pure 
 blood of animals exhi])ited. These expositions, organized by 
 Senor G. A. de Posadas in 1858, have been a powerful in- 
 fluence in the improvement of stock and in the pride taken in 
 blooded animals. They were the starting point of Argentine 
 stock breeding. The Sociedad Rural was organized in 1866. 
 During the Presidency of Sarmiento 1868-74, an Agricul- 
 tural Bureau was organized, and in 1898 the Ministry of 
 Agriculture, a prime necessity in view of the staple indus- 
 tries of the country. 1905 was the record year for the ex- 
 hibition of cattle, with 2389 head, after which a limit was 
 fixed to the number of entries in each class by one exhibitor. 
 The variety of cattle most favored is the Shorthorn, forming 
 88 per cent, 9 per cent are Herefords and there are some Dur- 
 
 238
 
 BUENOS AIRES 239 
 
 hams and other bret^ds. Of the sheep, more are Lineolns, 
 of horses, Clydesdales and Percherons, with some ^lor^ran 
 race horses. The leading nations of Europe took part in 
 the International Exposition, June, 1910. At the National 
 Exhibition in September, the sales amounted to over 
 $7,000,000. 
 
 A separate Fat Stock show is now held, with hiirli priced 
 sales and with frozen meat sent to England. Congress has 
 devoted 100,000 pesos annually to such an exhibit. 
 
 The fine studs of the country contain 400 thorough-bred 
 stallions and 3000 brood mares, producing 1500 foals yearly. 
 There are 66,500 thorough-bred horses. Ormonde, pun-iiased 
 for £19,000, was sold in the United States for £23,000. 
 Diamond Jubilee cost 30,000 guineas, Flying Fox 37,000. 
 Cyllene, bought for £30,000 was sought for at double the 
 price to be returned. The sons of these horses, raised in tliis 
 splendid climate, are excellent runners. 
 
 In the agricultural section are exhibited cereals and other 
 products; from the north, coffee, cotton, and tobacco; more 
 important, the linseed, wheat, corn, and rape, also beans and 
 peas, woods, fruits, avooIs, ostrich feathers, grape and wine 
 products, potatoes, sugar cane, yerba mate ; minerals, — marble, 
 onyx, petroleum, silver ; — agricultural machinery, pumps for 
 watering stock, windmills, engines, threshing machines, 
 shearers, locust destroying machines, etc. 
 
 At the Round Point of this Avenue is a Statue of Domingo 
 F. Sarmicnto (after whom the avenue is named) by the 
 sculptor Rodin. Unveiled ^May 25, 1900, it represents Sar- 
 miento advancing over the laurels which have fallen at his 
 feet, his face expressing the serenity, decision, and energy, 
 which characterized him. 
 
 The statue rests upon a l)lock of marb](% on the face of 
 which Apollo, the god of light and thought advances, dis- 
 pelling shadows, while the Python, representing Ignorance 
 and Foulness slinks back in death. Three other statues in the^ 
 Park are. one, in fiont of the Administration Building, of Dr. 
 Carlos G. Burmeister, who was many years director of the 
 ]\Iuseum of Natural History, another of Dr. Eduardo Costa, 
 a remarkable jurist who rendered great services to the State. 
 
 On the Avenue are seen two bronze lions, reproductions
 
 240 ^Jiiio SOUTH American tour 
 
 of those at the Pahice of Luxcinboui-g in Paris. They have 
 been nuich admired, as the most perfeet representations of 
 tliese animals yet produced. 
 
 At the end of the short Ave. Sarmiento is the Plaza Italia, 
 adorned with a striking monument by the sculptor INIacagnani 
 of General Giuseppe Garibaldi, the gift of resident Italians 
 and Argentines uniting in a sentiment of fraternal admiration 
 for the hero, who is here represented on horseback. The 
 monument, inaugurated June 2, 1904, has below at the sides 
 of the f)ediment two statues ; one. Victory, who many times 
 crowned the hero with laurels, the other, Liberty, for which 
 he shed his blood. Excellent bas-reliefs represent episodes ir 
 Garibaldi's life. In this plaza is the National Agricultural 
 Museum for propaganda and instruction. With six sections 
 of exhibits it is said to be surpassed by few similar insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 In the angle between Sarmiento and Avenue Las Heras is 
 the entrance to the Zoological Garden and between the latter 
 and Santa Fe an entrance to the Botanical Garden, this not 
 always open, the principal gateway being in the middle of 
 the side on Santa Fe, No. 3951. To each of these Gardens 
 an entire half day should if possible be devoted and some 
 persons would enjoy a longer time in each. Now observing 
 only their location, we return to the city in time for dinner 
 by Ave. Santa Fe, a street about ten miles long, extending 
 from Plaza San IMartin out to the suburb Belgrano. At No. 
 3795 adjoining the Botanical Garden is the National Con- 
 servaiory of Vaccination (dependent on the department of 
 Hygiene) where children are vaccinated by thousands and 
 from which vaccine is sent to all parts of the Republic except 
 the Province of Buenos Aires. On the other side of the 
 Avenue, on the corner of Uriarte, is an Association of young 
 society ladies, called Las Filomenas, its purpose that of giv- 
 ing to poor children a practical education b.y teaching them 
 a trade. A new route will be by the broad Ave. Callao to 
 Ave. de Mayo, but thus will be missed many fine residences 
 on Santa Fe which, however, will keep for the next time. 
 
 The Botanical Garden, an important institution, said to be 
 uncqualed in the world, is the work of the celebrated Carlos 
 Tliays, its organizer and former director. His red brick resi- 
 dence is directly in front of the main gateway. Just within the
 
 iHUAMLALi oAi 
 
 ZOOLOUICAL llAUDKN, UULSK UK ZEUU8
 
 BUENOS AIRES 241 
 
 entrance is a plan of the grounds, extremely useful in ena- 
 bling one to visit parts of especial interest or to make a sys- 
 tematic tour of the entire garden. In this limited space is 
 found a collection of the leading characteristic tiora of the 
 whole earth. The climate lends itself remarkably to the for- 
 mation of such a collection, permitting both trujiical growths 
 and those of the cooler parts of the earth. Here are hot 
 houses, a fernery, a Louis XV, and a Roman garden, in- 
 dustrial and medicinal plants, fruit trees, ycrha mate, aquatic 
 plants, a department of acclimatization, Argentine tiora, and 
 sections devoted to Europe, Asia, Africa, North, South, and 
 Central America, Canadian pines, and Sahara palms, a 
 wonderful variety of rich colors and luxuriant growth. 
 Naturally the Argentine collection is fullest, practically per- 
 fect, exhibiting, in specimens from Tierra del Fuego to 
 Mendoza and the Chaco, a good portion of the varieties of 
 the globe. A flourishing Victoria Regia is in the little lake 
 of the garden of Louis XV. A truly delightful afternoon 
 will be spent by many, and another will be passed near by. 
 The Zoological Garden may be entered from the Plaza 
 Italia, fee 10 ctvs., or at two other points. Coming from the 
 Plaza one's attention may first be attracted by the sight of 
 a white llama all saddled and bridled, looking in the summer, 
 very quaint with his wool clipped oil". (Perhaps it is allowed 
 to grow in cold weather.) A little boy or girl may be enjoy- 
 ing a ride on his back. The animal is tame but must be 
 gently handled. The Garden is a captivating place. Among 
 beautiful lakes and trees is a charming array of artistic and 
 elegant i)avilions for the various animals, these in general 
 constructed in the style of architecture of the country from 
 wiiich the residents have . come. For the elephants there 
 is, with a spacious yard for exercise, a splendid mansiitn, where 
 a little one was born in 1906, a rare occurrence in captivity. 
 An imposing edifice houses a large variety of bears including 
 the white polai's; an Egyptian temj)le contains gorillas ^md 
 chimpanzees, an Indian palaee, the zebus, in coi-reet style of 
 architecture exhibiting the fantasy of the raee. Tlie exten- 
 sive palace with the ferocious animals, lions, liengal tigers, 
 panthers, jaguars, etc., is of espeeial interest at feeding time. 
 An immense cage contains condors, eagles, and other large
 
 242 THE SOUTH amp:rican tour 
 
 birds, wliile sniallcr ones hold oilier varieties, lovely white 
 parrots, and some entirely pink with curious head feathers, 
 probably macaws. These, with the beautiful white peacocks, 
 are especially fascinating; the black and white swans are 
 noticeable. INIany other animals, snakes, etc., too numerous 
 to mention, are also on exhibition. In attractive restaurants 
 a large dish of ice cream may be had for 30 ctvs., and various 
 other viands. 
 
 Less extensive than the great collection in the Bronx, the 
 animals are more magnificently housed, and across the beauti- 
 ful lakes the Garden has many vistas of romantic beauty. 
 
 In the central portion of the city are many attractions 
 meriting the attention of the tourist. The Museum of Fine 
 Arts on Plaza San Martin, open from 10 to 5 except ^londay, 
 contains a collection of paintings, chiefly of the modern French 
 School, This Museum, decreed by the National Government, 
 July 16, 1895, was organized by Edward Schiaffino and opened 
 Dee. 25, 1896. The collection has been formed from a legacy 
 by Adrian E. Rossi of 81 canvases, donations from a large 
 number of private individuals, works of art belonging to the 
 State previously scattered in various public buildings, and 
 by many purchases. It includes a considerable number of 
 pieces of sculpture. Among the paintings of various schools 
 may be observed the familiar names of Puvis de Chavanues, 
 Meissonier, Van Ostade, Luca Giordano, Corot, and dozens 
 more. The collection is well arranged and lighted, and a full 
 half day is requisite to give a cursory glance at the fine works 
 of art here assembled. 
 
 A number of private galleries in the city afford evidence of 
 refined taste and of the desire of persons of great wealth 
 to acquire collections of artistic worth. To visit these in the 
 homes of their possessors, persons desiring the privilege 
 should endeavor to procure a card of introduction, though 
 in some cases permission may be gained by direct ap- 
 plication to the owners, who courteously receive strangers, 
 whether amateurs or artists. The gallery of the estate of 
 Jose Prudencio de Guerrico, Corrientes, 537, is a museum 
 of art as well as picture gallery, called one of the first in 
 South America. AVith many others it contains Avorks of 
 Daubigny, Corot, Diaz, Meissonier, Greuze, Rosa Bonheur.
 
 BUENOS AIRES 243 
 
 The collection of the Messrs. ^Moreno at Victoria, 1542, is un- 
 usual in containing the works of but one artist, Dionisio 
 Fierros. At Talcahuano 1138, the salon of Laurent Pclle- 
 rano presents paintings, classical, international, and Argen- 
 tine. 40 of Italian artists, 18 ^^panish including Mu- 
 rillo and Sorolla, 9 French and a good number of Argen- 
 tine. In the salon of Dr. Joseph R. Semprun, Tucuman 757, 
 is a collection of various styles, with many fine Avorks pur- 
 chased in Europe since 1830. The gallery of Jean Canter, 
 B. ]\Iitre 516, contains paintings, sculpture, pottery, and en- 
 graving of various styles and periods. The gallery at Maipu 
 929, belonging to Piladeo Soldaini, open on Sundays from 
 one to three, has a collection especially of Italian and Spanish 
 artists with more than 50 different signatures. At Paraguay, 
 1327, in the home of General Garmendia are 150 paintings 
 including canvases of rare merit by unknown and by famous 
 artists, and portraits of members of the family, with an in- 
 teresting museum of armor of the fifteenth and sixteenth cen- 
 turies, fire arms, poniards, and daggers of various periods, 
 historic swords of Gen. San Martin, Rozas, and others, and 
 personal relics of the Paraguayan war in which the General 
 was engaged. 
 
 The Museum of Natural History at the corner of Peru and 
 Alsina, with entrance on the former, is of great value; but in 
 1911 was so badly housed that a small portion only of its 
 treasures were visible. Decreed by the Assembly, May 27, 
 1812, and actually installed after an ordinance of Kivadavia, 
 Dec. 31, 1823, little was accomplished until the fall of the 
 tyrant Rozas. At length the post of Dii-ector was offered to a 
 professor of the German University of Halle, Charles (iermain 
 Conrad Purnicister, who, by a ])revi()us journey to Brazil 
 and Kio de la I'lata, had greatly advanced seieiitilie knowled^'e 
 of the fauna and flora of these regions. \)v. I'.mimisti r, 
 landing in Buenos Aires Septend)er, 18G1, ileveloped the 
 institution into a i-enowiied seientilic estabiisimient. Tlie re- 
 markable paleo/.oologic section has a. world wide rej)Ulatiitn. 
 Fossil animals of the antediluvian epoch, largely deri\ eil from 
 the Argentine pampa, were reconstru<'le(l by the scientist, 
 who wrote many works embodying the result of painful re- 
 search in reference to prehistoric creatures. After 30 years
 
 244 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 of service the great scholar at the advanced age of 95, re- 
 solved to retire, but anxious for the continuance of his work 
 he first secured the appointment of Dr. Charles Berg, pre- 
 viously in Montevideo. To Dr. Burmeister, who believed 
 that the Museum was for the benefit of science and not to 
 gratify idle curiosity, is due the ia.<it that the Museum is so 
 badly housed; as when a new edifice was proposed he said 
 he would be buried there rather than leave. Many improve- 
 ments in the display of objects were made by Dr. Berg, 
 others by the present Director, Dr. Angel Gallardo, but the 
 collection should be transferred to a building in consonance 
 with its merits. The present edifice is an ancient cloister of 
 the Jesuits in Avhich the University was installed Nov. 3, 
 1783. The greater part of the visible exposition is up one 
 flight. Of especial interest are the enormous skeletons of 
 pre-historic animals. The IMuseum has five sections, includ- 
 ing Zoolog}% Paleontology, Ethnolog}', Botany, and one of 
 Geology and Mineralogy; also a library' of more than 10,000 
 volumes, chiefly important works for the study of Natural 
 History. 
 
 No one should fail to visit the National Historical Museum 
 in the Parque Lezama, open on Thursdays and Sundays from 
 noon to four, and entered from calle Defensa, 1600. The 
 six rooms and a gallery are so crowded with relics that the 
 Government is planning the construction of an ediflce more 
 w^orthy to preserve the glorious record of the country's his- 
 tory. One acquainted with this history has far greater pleas- 
 ure in these relics of the past ; but a glance is due from 
 every traveler. The IMuseum was created in 1890 as a mu- 
 nicipal institution by Seiior Adolfo P. Carranza, with 191 
 objects: private donations, and trophies previously preserved 
 in the Government Palace and the Natural History IMuseum. 
 In 1891, it became national in character and since Sept. 1897, 
 it has been in its present locality. In 1907, it contained 
 4500 pieces, not all on exhibition on account of insufficient 
 space. At the left of the entrance are the offices, at the right, 
 the salons. The library, originating with a gift of the late 
 Director, Contains 1500 volumes of American History and 
 IMS. of great importance. The IMuseum has a rich collection 
 of numismatics, 4000 pieces, including rare examples of medals
 
 BUENOS AIRES 245 
 
 eommemorating the epoch of Independence, and many of 
 other periods. In the first sah)n may be seen on the left 
 a celebrated plaque of silver with reliefs in <:old sent in Au- 
 gust, 1807, by the Corporation of Oruro, Bolivia, to Buenos 
 Aires, and to General Liniers, to commemorate the retaking 
 of the city. Above is the sword of the British General Beres- 
 ford, surrendered by him at the time of capture. From the 
 plaque is suspended a shield no less ffwnous, called Tarja de 
 Polusi, of gold and silver, presented by the ladies of that city 
 to the general and patriot, Manuel Belgrano; and with this 
 are medals in memory of his triumphs at Salta and Tucuman. 
 In this and other rooms are two royal Spanish standards, one 
 dating from 1605; portraits of Viceroys; explorers, as Valdi- 
 via, IMendoza, Ponce de Leon, discoverer of Florida, Pi/arro, 
 and others; many pictures of battles; furniture, dislu-s, and 
 other relics of distinguished men. At the doorway of the third 
 salon, is a silver statue of the British ^linister, George Can- 
 ning, presented in 1857 to Dr. Alsina. In the salon is a 
 reconstruction of the chamber in which San jMartin lived and 
 died, the furniture, pictures, etc., given by his desci-ndants, 
 with pictures of the battles in which he fought, and a hundred 
 other interesting objects. In the fourth room is preserved un- 
 der a glass his uniform as Protector of Peru, and his saber of 
 jMoorish style. ^NFedals, flags, and various otlier interesting 
 relics are here also. The sixth room has, with otlier relies, 
 trojihies, and representations of the war with Paraguay. 
 
 The Libraries of the city will be visited by tourists of literary 
 tastes if not by others. The Nadonal Library was founded at 
 the very birth of the nation in ISIO, by the Kevolutionary 
 Junta, who placed in charge Dr. .Mariano ]Moreno. In 17II6, 
 the prelate, don Manuel Azamory Ramirez, had at his death 
 left his books for this object, but the English invasion in LS06 
 delayed the execution of the i)lan. The project received en- 
 thusiastic support in the substantial form of gifts. Installed 
 in a house of the Jesuits where it remained till 1!K)2, it was 
 then removed to its present quarters on ealle Mexico, 560- 
 566, soon to be enlarged. A line vestibule and staircase lead 
 to the spacious reading-room. There is a handsonn" hall for 
 lectures, and the ordinary appurtenances of a library. The 
 institution in 1880 passed from the hands of the City to the
 
 246 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Government, wlien Buenos Aires was federalized. Tlie Ijuild- 
 ing, heated in winter, is then open from 11.30 to 4; in sum- 
 mer, from noon till 5. The last figures obtainable were of 
 200,000 volumes and 10,000 MS. 
 
 Equally interesting is the Library of the late General B. 
 Mitre, preserved in his former residence, San IMarlin, 336, 
 where he died; this, Congress has decreed a public monu- 
 ment in recognition of his glorious services to the nation as a 
 statesman, a writer, and a soldier. The dissipation of the 
 library would have been a public calamity. It is a bibliogra- 
 phic treasure, amassed by General JMitre during fifty years of 
 active intellectual life. It is distinguished by American his- 
 torical works, especially documents and MS. collected for his 
 own writings, the Story of Belgrano, 3 vol. and of San 
 Martin, 4 vol. The library has twelve sections, including 
 the works on the pre-Columbian native races of America, 
 their languages, culture, geography, etc. ; the discovery of 
 America ; further exploration ; Rio de la Plata in general 
 and particular ; Spanish America ; Portuguese America ; 
 North America ; boundary limits, laws, seals, constitutions, 
 treaties, etc. ; with letters and stamps. I was interested to 
 observe under glass a letter written by Sidney S. Rider of 
 Providence, informing the General of his election as an 
 Honorary Member of the Rhode Island Historical Society, an 
 evidence that his fame had reached one corner of the United 
 States. 
 
 The Library Bivaelavia, Lavalle, 935, founded ^la}^ 20, 1879, 
 by the Bernardino Rivadavia Association, is free to readers, 
 but the members pay one peso a month for the privilege of 
 taking out books. It contains about 30,000 volumes. 
 
 The Library of the Sociedad Tipogrdfica Bonaerense, Solis 
 707, with more than 5000 volumes, is noteworthy as receiving 
 all journals and reviews of the Republic. Open 7-10 p. m. 
 Entrance free. 
 
 There are especial libraries: that of the Faculty of Medicine, 
 Cordoba 2180, open daily to students and the public, and 
 having more than 20,000 volumes, that of the Law, ^Moreno 
 350, and that on Education, well stocked on this subject, for 
 the use of teachers and others who may apply. The library
 
 PATIO IN NKW HALL OF JUSTICE 
 
 COLON THKAIKL
 
 BUENOS AIRES 247 
 
 of La Prcnsa is open to the public from 2 to 7 and from 9 to 
 12 p. m. 
 
 In this connection reference to the newspapers seems appro- 
 priate. The leading journals publish news from every cor- 
 ner of the globe, all that is wortliy of interest : they contain 
 much more foreign news and cable dispatches than any New 
 York paper. Instead of the enormous quantity of trivial gos- 
 sip about public and private individuals which forms so large 
 a part of the reading matter of most of our papers, they have 
 in addition to real news of State, and of mercantile and 
 commercial matters at home and abroad, articles scientific 
 and literary, information as to art, music, and every tield of 
 activity. In their high ideals of duty in molding public 
 opinion and in correcting abuses, they are regarded by foreign 
 critics as among the most important and advanced of the 
 world. To this, the first rank of their press, belong the 
 Prensa and the Nation among morning papers, the Diario 
 and La Razon, of afternoon. These, with El Pais, Tiempo, and 
 La Patria dcgli Italiani show the highest degree of excellence 
 as to their illustrations, typography, material, and housing. 
 La Xacion, originating in 1857 under the name Los Debates, 
 was edited by Gen. Mitre until 1862, and in 1870, took its 
 present name. It is noted for the elegance and literary char- 
 acter, as Avell as for the intrinsic value of its writings. There 
 are more than 400 publications in the Repul)lic including 100 
 in foreign languages, many naturally poor and ephemeral 
 in character. There are some excellent illustrated papers; 
 Caras y Carctas, the P. B. T. and La lUustracion Sud-AtiKr- 
 icana. 
 
 On the Plaza Lavalle are several important buildings of 
 great interest to every tourist. On the west side is the new 
 Palace of Justice on a site formerly occupied by the Artillt-ry 
 Armory, a work of much splendor botli witliout and within; 
 the edifice, of the neo-Greek style, constructed by Josepli E. 
 Hernasconi after a design by the French architect, Norbert 
 IMeillar, at a cost of about a million and a half dollars. Tiio 
 main building, 125 feet in height, has sevt-n stoi-ies, the four 
 central bodies surmounted by a cupola. Steps h-ad from the 
 Plaza to a broad i)ortico and vestil)ule, from wiiieh fine stair-
 
 248 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ways conduct to tlie third lloor, the scat of the Supreme Court. 
 Otlier great staircases lead up from north and south ; from 
 Lavalle street is a covered passage Avay admitting vehicles 
 with criminals. On the main floor are the chambers for 
 Federal Courts and their Secretaries, the Criminal and Cor- 
 rectional Tribunals. A Jury Hall is an amphitheater seating 
 700. The Supreme Court Room on the third floor, 70 by 38 
 feet and 60 feet high, is separated from the front by a fine 
 gallery looking upon the plaza. Every floor is arranged for 
 eight tribunals or courts, each with audience chamber, pri- 
 vate rooms for judge and secretaries, and rooms for employees. 
 There are several patios adorned with beautiful columns, one 
 in style somewhat after the Caryatides of the Erechtheion 
 in Athens. The archives will be kept on the ground floor : 
 the three upper stories are reserved for use when needed. Six 
 passenger elevators and two freight supply required service. 
 On the opposite side of the plaza is a building which to 
 many will be still more attractive, the Colon Theater, with- 
 out its equal in America, and some say in the w'orld. No 
 shops disfigure the ground floor, nor do any of the facades 
 resemble the walls of a prison. The exterior is of the Ionic 
 order of architecture below, the Corinthian above, and at the 
 top a rather composite construction. The height to the cor- 
 nice is about 80 feet. From the main entrance on the plaza 
 a vestibule leads to a hall 45 by 90 feet and 80 feet high, from 
 which a staircase 45 feet wide and adorned with 16 large 
 statues conducts to the level of the orchestra chairs of the 
 auditorium, one of the largest in the world, accommodating 
 3570 persons. The entire length of one balcony is nearly 
 250 feet, 10 more than that of St. Charles in Naples. The 
 floor space 90 by 70, has 900 chairs on 7 levels. The stage, 60 
 feet broad and 65 feet high, from foundations to arch is 150 
 feet. The building is fire-proof, with fine acoustic properties, 
 and the best of light, heat, and ventilation. The cost was 
 nearly $2,000,000. The theater is a government building 
 where operas are performed by the leading European artists, 
 Mascagui and others conducting. It has been said that the 
 Argentines discover the great singers ; later they come to New 
 York. The seats are more expensive than at the ^Metropolitan 
 and the audience is as brilliant as any in the world.
 
 Lii--.4,^__^:*i 
 
 TOMB, RECOLETA CEMETEHT 
 
 UKIULKTA TAUK
 
 BUExXOS AIRES 249 
 
 The edifice north of the theater deserves more than a pass- 
 ing glance, a beautiful school building called the President 
 Boca, fitted with all the latest improvements and containing a 
 charming patio at which every one should take a peep, since 
 this may be done without disturbing the inmates. An equally 
 beautiful school building is the Sanniento on Callao. On the 
 opposite side of the Tlaza Lavalle is another excellent and 
 well equipped school. 
 
 ]\Iany theaters there are besides the Colon ; the Opera, Cor- 
 rientes 860, used for light opera and plays, the San Martin on 
 Esmeralda 257, the National Theater designed for the repre- 
 sentation of works written in the country, and many more of 
 all classes including vaudeville and cinematograph, as may 
 be seen by consulting the dailj'' papers. The performances 
 begin usually at 8.30, sometimes at 9. For the oi)era, full 
 dress is de rigueiir, the ladies en elecoUete; and the spectacle 
 on a fete day, as the 25th of .May or 9th of July, should not 
 be missed by the tourist. 
 
 At the Colisee Argentin, Charcas 1109, is a permanent 
 circus of modern arrangement accommodating 1700. 
 
 In the city are many Conservatories of Music and nuisical 
 societies. Concerts are given in various places, besides those 
 in the Parks by the excellent military bands. 
 
 Six blocks west of Plaza Lavalle and two north, facing 
 Paraguay street, is a fine building occupying a whole block, 
 the purpose of which would hardly be suspected. Instead of 
 the public institution which it might be supposed to contain, 
 it has indeed pul)lic works, tanks containing the city's water 
 supply. It is called the Ayuas Cofricntes and may be in- 
 spected within, on a permit to be i)rocured from the President 
 of the Commi.ssion, Rivadavia 1255. A fine view of the city 
 will be enjoyed from the roof. 
 
 The l)ui]ding opposite is the Xormal School for Girls. 
 
 A little fartlier west is the building of the Muhcal School, 
 facing Cordoba, and on the corner of Los Andes. The fine 
 edifice contains offices, lecfurc halls, a large amphitheater, 
 lal)oratories, disse(;ting rooms, lihraiy, etc. The luindsomcly 
 decorated salon where degrees are conf»'rred has a criling of 
 artistic merit representing the triumph of Science, i'aintings 
 on the walls illustrate some of these, such as Jeuner iu-
 
 250 TIIK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 noculating with the first vaccine, Pasteur examining cultures 
 of microbes, and many others. In the amphitheater is a 
 large painting by Charles Leroy, representing Medilalion 
 upon Dialli, presented by Dr. Toribio Ayi-rza. Tlie scliool has 
 annexes for Pharmacy and Dentistry and in a separate build- 
 ing a School of Obstetrics for midwives. Opposite the Medi- 
 cal School, is the Maternity Hospital, and connected with the 
 former the Morgue, equi])ped in the finest manner with re- 
 frigerators and every facility desirable for such an estal)lish- 
 ment. The public entrance is on Junin. The standard of 
 the Medical School is so high that only about 60 per cent of 
 its students are graduated. Other departments of the Univer- 
 sity are located in different parts of the city. A beautiful 
 structure of the Gothic style of architecture has been designed 
 for the Law School. The Agricultural School in the sub- 
 urbs has commodious buildings and large grounds. 
 
 The Becoleta Cemetery, no one should fail to visit. Well 
 within the city, it is easy of access by car or carriage, in the 
 direction of Palermo Park but not so far, — a city of the dead 
 among the living, a crowded city wdth no room for more, 
 save in the lots and tombs already w^ell filled. The Munic- 
 ipal Cemetery now in general use, supplied with a crematory, 
 is the Chacarita, five miles from the Plaza. But in the Re- 
 coleta are monuments to many Argentine heroes, and splendid 
 works of art which would adorn any gallery. To mention 
 even the most notable of these would require too much space. 
 A few only may be named. In a chapel near the entrance is 
 a great marble Crucifix by IMonteverde, the Christ represented 
 in realistic agony. A beautiful statue of Grief by Tantar- 
 dini stands upon the tomb of Quiroga. Among the finest 
 of the tombs is that of Dr. Francois J. ^luniz, physician, 
 soldier, and philanthropist. A superb female figure of bronze 
 representing Science, is seated below, a bust of the physician 
 is above. The tombs of Ayerza, of Ocampo, and others are 
 also adorned with beautiful statues of allegorical figures. A 
 full half day should be allowed for a careful study of the 
 works of art and the tombs of many famous Argentines. 
 
 A visit to the Frigorificos and to the Docks and Harhar 
 should be on the programme of every tourist. Those who care 
 for such things may like first to visit the Slaughter Hauses
 
 DljILI)lN(i OK I'LllhlC M< HooL, rtAUMII-..> lo
 
 BUENOS AIRES 251 
 
 on the edge of the town, the extreme west, at a phice appro- 
 priately called Nueva Chicago. These, inaugurated ^larch, 
 1900, occupy an iininense rectangle on ^Nlerlo, Arco, and San 
 Fernando streets, about 1200 by 3000 feet. The abaltuirs 
 against the outer wall cover each 400 square feet and the 
 courts for the animals, 15,000 feet ; room for 30,000 head of 
 cattle. All arrangements are of the best fashion, with suitable 
 constructions for every necessity, including a crematory for 
 useless animals. To see the animals slaughtered, a visit should 
 be made in the early morning. The tramways leading thither 
 may be taken on calle San Juan or on Rivadavia ; round trip 
 by the former, 70 ctvs.; by the latter 10 ctvs. each way. An 
 hour must be allowed for the journey. 
 
 ]\Iany who Avill prefer to be excused from visiting slaughter 
 houses may yet enjoy a visit to the great Frigorificos, where 
 no unpleasant sights need be witnessed, but wliere some in- 
 sight may be gained into the wonderful industry which has 
 been so great a factor in the rapid increase of Argentina's 
 wealth. An electric car will take one to the bridge across the 
 Riachuelo, an imjiortant structure of iron opened in August, 
 1902, of immense service to the teams carrying loads to the 
 Central Produce ^Market, the Mcrcado Central dc Fnitos 
 (not fruits), where cattle and agricultural products are sold 
 for export, an immense traffic, the most important, it is said, 
 in South America. As long ago as 190G, 5000 vehicles daily 
 crossed this bridge. At the left on the other side is the Fri- 
 gorifico La Blaiica, opened Sept. 1903, an esta))lishment of 
 imposing appearance and completeness with its courts, offices, 
 and warehouses. Passing some of these, one comes to a pool 
 in which animals by the hundred are l)athed before going 
 to the slaughter house, whither ivc are not obliged to follow. 
 Here is a track on which run automatic cars transporting the 
 slain animals to the air chaml)ers. Three boih-rs of 200 
 horse power, a depot of ammonia, a lire engine and two 
 electric light installations are beyond the three refrigerating 
 chambers, which will acconnnodate at tiie same time 7000 
 beef and 70,000 sheep. The jiipes of ammonia are GO miles 
 long. To see rows on rows of hanging cattle covereil with a 
 thin coating of snow as it appears, n'ally frost, which on 
 pipes and walls is a (puirter of an inch thick, is quite im-
 
 252 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 prcssive. The fortunate visitor may be regaled ])y the Eng- 
 lish Superintendent with a hospitable cup of tea. 
 
 Beyond this establishment is the Mercado de Frutos, the 
 great wool market of the world, where other products also 
 are sold, grain, cattle, fruit, etc. The iron building which 
 covers over 30 acres cost $4,155,000 gold. It contains 72 
 cranes and elevators, 44 hydraulic presses, motors, engines, 
 etc. With a capacity of over 50,000,000 lbs. of wool the 
 greatest quantity yet stored was in Feb. 1901, when there 
 were 35 million lbs. within and 5 million in wagons outside. 
 To see the wools being sorted, and other operations, and at 
 other times of the year the different products of the season 
 is of very great interest. 
 
 Above the bridge, the Frigoripco La Kegra, founded in 1883 
 by Sansinena, employs nearly 700 men and boys, has four 
 Stern refrigerating machines, and three from Switzerland, and 
 with a capital of $3,000,000 pays annual dividends of from 
 18 to 50 per cent. Another establishment called Frigonfico 
 Argentino, a joint stock company, is nearly as large as the 
 Mercado de Frutos. A single man kills 6000 sheep daily, 
 so skillful is he and so perfect are the arrangements. In 
 connection with the beef is a department for making Liebitr's 
 Extract. Many interesting operations carried on here would 
 take too long to describe. 
 
 A great establishment in this quarter is that of Domingo 
 Noceti & Co. with immense workshops, foundry, iron-work, 
 etc., connected wdth the railway. 
 
 On the way thither or on the return, several important 
 institutions may be passed or visited. 
 
 The Hospital Mercedes for the Insane, established in 1863, 
 is w^ell located on the calle Brandsen, on high land with fine 
 large buildings and grounds, the latter including well paved, 
 shaded streets, parks, and gardens. It has separate apart- 
 ments for persons needing continual surveillance, and for 
 all grades and conditions, each section with refectory, salon, 
 dormitory, etc. ; also workshops for the manufacture of many 
 articles, and opportunities for gardening, painting, music, etc., 
 for those who are able to work. At one time there were more 
 than 1000 poor patients and 132 paying. Baths, medicinal 
 and plain, a gymnasium, library, music, and billiard rooms
 
 PASEO COLON, GRAIN ELEVATORS IN THE DISTANCE 
 
 DAIiSENA NDUI) AM) MAIUM. Mim-.-t
 
 BUENOS AIRES 25:3 
 
 are provided. Opposite is a Building for Idiots, established 
 1855 by philanthropists, with accommodations for 5U0. 
 
 The Arsenal of M'ar, also in this quarter of the city, may be 
 reached by cars coming down Callao and Entre Rios, though 
 located on Pozos between CJaray and Brazil. Everything 
 needful for the making or repairing of war nuiterial, for the 
 furnishing of barracks and most of the military establish- 
 ments, is here provided. The workshops will intcn'st many, 
 and the depot of Avar supplies. The buildings, li|_ditfd by 
 electricity, are surrounded by large and well planted gardens. 
 There is a gallerj' for artillery practice. If passing along 
 the Ave. Callao, at 540 the school building Sarmioito should 
 be noticed, admirable both without and within. 
 
 The splendid Docks of Buoios Aires deserve the attention 
 of every visitor. Although now utterly inadequate for the 
 requirements of the city's commerce they are models as far 
 as they go. AVheu constructed it was supposed that they 
 would provide ample accommodations for many years, as no 
 one looked forward to the astonishingly rapid growth of both 
 city and commerce. The port has two sections, the original 
 and natural harbor at the Riachuelo south of the city, where 
 the stream so called, entering the River, allows ships drawing 
 18 feet only to go some distance up. The docks on both sides 
 of this stream form a very important au.xiliary to the more 
 modern section on the River, the tonnage some years ago 
 reaching 1,200,000 annually. 
 
 The chief port constructed on the bank of the great River 
 is composed of two large basins called the north and south 
 <larse)ws, and between these, four docks. Tiie I)ars( na Sud 
 is more than half a mile long and 500 feet wide, the lir.st and 
 second docks are about 1800 by 500 feet, the other two a little 
 smaller. The Darscna Norte has an area of a million scpiare 
 feet. In the basins the depth of water is 21 feet, in tiie 
 doeks 2:?. 9 at the lowest. The entire water surface of this 
 port is over 150 acres. The Riachuelo has but two sheds for 
 merchandise; this, the Capital i>ort, li;is 24 di-pots, S of iron 
 and 16 of masonry. Their dock frontage is 8000 feet, their 
 capacity over 2 million cubic feet. There is liydraulic motive 
 power, four motors, M6 elevators, iuid all otlier necessities, 
 including nearly 50 miles of railway.
 
 254 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Two large grain elevators at Docks 2 and 3 belong to 
 private companies, one with a capacity for 85,000 tons of 
 grain. Next to these is a mill for making flour, the Rio de 
 la Plata, which cost $15,000,000. The port is lighted by 
 electricity, 180 lamps of 280 watts, and 261 of 400 watts 
 placed 100 feet apart, so that ships can come in by night as 
 well as by day. It is said to be the best lighted harbor in 
 the world, except that of London. New York is far ])ehind. 
 The cost of the harbor works was approximately $35,000,000. 
 Plans are already made for vastly greater facilities extending 
 for miles up the river. 
 
 The neatness and cleanliness of the docks and their ap- 
 proaches will probably excite the greatest astonishment, and 
 the manner in which they are shut off from the rest of the 
 city by the beautiful Parque de Julio and the Paseo Colon. 
 Between these and the river is an immensely broad, well 
 paved street with appropriate structures and ample room for 
 all traffic. A call to see the Immigrants' Hotel, where fine 
 accommodations for the use of the immigrants are provided 
 in several large buildings close to the Darsena Nord, is well 
 worth while. 
 
 An excursion by no means to be omitted is that to El 
 Tigre, the fashionable summer and boating resort, where 
 regattas at times occur and where all kinds of water craft 
 are in evidence. It is a short rail or boat ride, an hour or so, 
 to the delightful spot where the river Tigre flows into La 
 Plata. The former is overspread with a perfect network of 
 islands covered with trees, gardens, meadows, and charming 
 vine-clad cottages. On the main shore are prett}^ hotels and 
 restaurants with music and other attractions, people in out- 
 ing flannels and in evening dress, a delightful combination of 
 wealth, fashion, and natural beauty, which every one may 
 enjoy. 
 
 An excursion should be made from Buenos Aires to La 
 Plata; according to one's taste and pocketbook, to i\Iar del 
 Plata. A visit to an estancia will be greatly enjoyed if per- 
 mission can be obtained from the proprietor; but the large 
 ones near the city are few in number and obviously it would 
 be inconvenient for them to entertain all passing travelers. 
 With friends at court, the few may be able to arrange a visit.
 
 ON THE lilVER TIGHE 
 
 lJi(JlbU\nVl. lUll.hlN'., I.A 11. MA
 
 LA PLATA 255 
 
 At estancias far ont on the campo it is different, and the rare 
 stranger is pretty sure to receive a Avelconie. 
 
 La Plata. The excursion requires a full long d;iy. The 
 journey is made by rail from the fine large station on the 
 Plaza Constitucion, by the Southern Railway, the F. C. S. 
 The first important station is Quilmc.^, 9 km., a historic spot, 
 taking its name from an Indian ti'il)e which was conquered 
 and deported in 1G70. Here landed, June 25, 1806, the 
 English General Beresford with 2000 soldiers for the capture 
 of Buenos Aires, meeting with temporary success; and off 
 shore Feb. 24, 1827, Admiral Brown defeated the Brazilian 
 squadron during a war for the possession of Uruguay. A 
 pretty Gothic church may be seen from the station. On 
 the edge of the town is a vineyard, a brewery also. So far 
 come electric cars, starting from a bridge over the Biachuelo 
 in the part of the city called Barracas. From the station 
 Pcreyra, 89 kilometers, a branch road goes to the port of 
 Enscnada, and in this vicinity are several large cfiiancias, the 
 San Juan, the Pereyra, and the Eslancia Grande. Fifty- 
 seven kilometers southeast of Buenos Aires and five fi-om 
 Knsenada is La Plata, a city made to order, like Washington, 
 to be the capital, not of the Republic, but of the Province, 
 we should say State, of Buenos Aires, after the city, B. A., 
 had been made the Fedei-al Capital. The decree was pronuil- 
 gated Nov. 19, 1882. The city is well planned with rec- 
 tangular blocks, but with the addition of many diagonal 
 boulevards, of parks and plazas. On account of the wonder- 
 ful growth of Buenos Aires, so near, the development of La 
 Plata has not e(iualed expectations, as for nuiny years was 
 llie case with our own capital, Washington; but in time, liLe 
 that, it will become a splendid city. The eliicf points worthy 
 of observation are the various (Jovernin.iil liuiMings, the 
 Casa de GohicrnOy residence and ofliees ol" the (iovernor, 
 the Legislative Unll, the Citij liuilding (.Munieipalidad), the 
 Dircccion de Escuelas, the Department of Eiujinars, the 
 great University Buddimjs, the Astronomieal Ohsi rvatonj 
 founded by the Government in ]SS;{, and most famous of 
 all, the Museum. A ean-iage may be liiretl at the station at 
 one peso an hour, or a ti-amear will make a considerable cir- 
 cuit, fare 10 eentavos. A large Asylum for M< ndieants, .satis-
 
 256 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 fying an important social necessity, lias In-en erected by the 
 philantliropist, Placide Martin. 
 
 The La I'lata Museum (open Sundays and Thursdays from 
 1 to 4 p.m.), having a world wide reputation for its large 
 collection, anthropological and ethnological, was founded Sept. 
 17, 1884, by Francisco P. Moreno. While the departments 
 mentioned are the most famous, the museum also contains 
 sections devoted to zoology, geology and mineralogy, and to 
 archa'ology. The substantial architecture of the building and 
 the arrangement of the interior and of the specimens is equal 
 to that of European collections. Unscientilic persons will be 
 interested in many of the objects presented, the stuffed ani- 
 mals, the skeletons of prehistoric creatures, the mummies, the 
 pottery, and other objects. 
 
 Mar del Plata, called the Newport of South America, is an 
 extremely expensive and fashionable seaside resort about 250 
 miles from Buenos Aires. The night trains with Pullman 
 ears are well patronized. In the summer season tickets must 
 be procured in advance and rooms engaged at the hotels. 
 The Hotel Bristol, American plan, 12 pesos up, is the most 
 luxurious, equipped with every possible convenience. The 
 Grand, Victoria, Royal, and many others are very comfortable. 
 
 The city has more than 10,000 inhabitants, with boulevards, 
 plazas, splendid chalets, and "cottages" of the Newport 
 fashion. There are casinos, theaters, golf course, bathing 
 establishments, and everything requisite for a resort of wealth 
 and fashion on the grandest scale. 
 
 Montevideo, Uruguay. The one night journey is usually 
 made by the tine boats of the IMihauovich Line or by the elegant 
 new steamers of the Cap Line, equal to the best of our river 
 boats.
 
 UNTVEESITY BUILDING, LA PL.VTA 
 
 'rwi 
 
 MUbKtM, L.\. I'LATA
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 THE IGUASSU FALLS AND PAKAGIAY 
 
 Impoktaxt ARCiKNTixf: Cities 
 
 Among the nations of the ancient or the modern Morkl. not 
 one do we know with a history in some respects so extraor- 
 dinary as that of Paraguay. Yet of the thousands aiimiany 
 who will soon be makin<,' the South American Tour^SL-arccly 
 
 ( mf wo u ld ^"' ^ iinpf>->i hy l ,t ti,,nn'r, i'ii/iiv,.t/ tn jniirn.iy 1000 
 
 mile s from the l)caten track. Put the ar((if<st irah rfall in the 
 'irorld! Ah, that is anothfi- matter! A wat n-fa ll hiirgcr than 
 Niagara^ higiier and with mo re watcr _ 2 'I'ni ly tl'--'t i< tln^ 
 tale! >So while the majority, who wisli t o make the trip in 
 three months or so, or'wliO have c ome m the wrong season, may 
 go direclly on from J:^uenos Aires to ^Montevideo, some will 
 -dFCideTo visit tlie Iguassii Falls, and then, l)eing near, will 
 cross over to Asuncion, the capital ot l^araguay. 
 
 — TcXTew it would be pleasant to make the entire journey 
 upward in the fine steamers of ]\Iihanovicli. Althou<_di the 
 banks of the wide Parana are too distant and too flat to at^brd 
 much scenic beaut}', there is some interest in calling at various 
 cities along the w-ay, and in noting the gradual change from 
 a temj>erate to a tropical clime, with the variation in verdure 
 and animal life, especially of birds; higher up between nar- 
 rowing shores or islands are fascinating stretches of forest, 
 interspersed with pretty pastoral scenes. All the way to 
 Asuncion, a Aveek's journey, one may sail in the same com- 
 modious steamer; but if first visiting the Falls, a change will 
 be made at Corrientes; for the Alio J'arana on whieh Posa<las 
 is situated is more shallow than the Paraguay on whose bank 
 is Asuncion. 
 
 The shorter way, appealing to the greater nundier. is to go 
 by rail to Posadas, tlieiiee by steamer to the Falls and return, 
 continuing by rail from Posadas to Asuncion. The river 
 
 257
 
 258 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 route, obviously shorter coining down, may be taken for the 
 return to Buenos Aires, or the rail route through Posadas. 
 
 The cross-country ride through the provinces of Entre 
 Rios and Corrieutes on the way to Posadas will give a view 
 of the fertile pampas and their rich agricultural products, 
 of ostriches, of enormous herds of cattle, and of the wooded 
 banks of the Uruguay; through Misiones, of a pretty rolling 
 country. The towns are generally small. At last accounts 
 a day and a half was required for the journey. 
 
 Posadas, capital of the territory Misiones, is a thriving 
 town of 10,000 inhabitants, destined to more rapid growth, 
 now that it has through railway connection with Buenos 
 Aires, and, after crossing the Parana, with Asunci(3n ; the 
 whole section will share in the prosperity promoted by better 
 transportation facilities. The three hotels of Posadas, one of 
 which, terms, $2.00 a day, is called fairly comfortable, will 
 be sure to improve. There is a fine Government Building on 
 the principal plaza and other public edifices, a beautiful prom- 
 enade with native and exotic trees. The river is here about 
 a mile and a quarter in width, 
 
 Iguassu Falls. To visit the Iguassu Falls one sails from 
 Posadas in a boat of moderate size 215 miles up the Parana 
 to the mouth of the Iguassu, and a mile up that stream to 
 Port Aguirre, where several buildings do service as hotel, 
 store, and post office. As the Alto Parana separates Argen- 
 tina from Paraguay, the Iguassu separates it from Brazil, 
 fiowing from the east, from its source in the mountains near 
 the Atlantic. Twelve miles more one proceeds on mule or in 
 a sort of stage coach, a four hours' ride. The road 65 feet 
 wide, begun in 1904, was later completed by the contribution 
 of a public spirited lady of Buenos Aires, Sta. Victoria 
 Aguirre. Within a few years there will doubtless be an auto- 
 mobile traveling a good road ; and a primitive establishment 
 near the brink of a great cliff, with a drop of 130 feet, will 
 have been transformed for the globe trotters into a large 
 hotel with luxurious accommodations. Perhaps, however, the 
 tourist who arrives before the pristine beauty of the wild 
 surroundings is converted into artificial adornment may enjoy 
 equally well the magnificence of the spectacle. The river, 
 here a mile and a half in width, double that of Niagara, also
 
 IGUASSU FALLS 259 
 
 has two falls, the Argentine comparatively near, the Bra- 
 zilian farther up, close to the other shore. It is more accu- 
 rate to say that there are from (i(> to 70 falls. In the midst 
 of this primeval tropical forest the i-oar of tiie great cataract 
 is impressive. Above the Falls the river takes a sharp tnrn, 
 and iine(iual erosion has given somelhing of a iiorscsiioe 
 shape. On the Argentine side most of the falls make two 
 distinct leaps, while the main Brazilian falls drop 200 feet 
 in a single plunge. Zigzag paths cut in the clitf lead down 
 to several beautiful view-points. AVhoi the stream is low, 
 several islands on tlie brink of liie Falls may be visited by 
 canoe and wading. At one point near the Garganta del 
 Diablo, the Throat of the Devil, llie traveler with steady 
 nerves leaning over the precipiee, in the midst of howling 
 waters and showers of spray, may there have a glorious view 
 of the foaming abyss beneath. In low water the various 
 falls, separated by masses of rock in some places covered 
 with forest, are quite distinct; but when the river is high 
 they are practically one, the whole measuring nearly two 
 miles across, indeed a worthy rival of Niagara, as figures 
 show, in the midst of wild and delightful seenery. When I 
 saw the falls in I\Iay, 1916, the river was the lowest, so they 
 said, that it had been in ten y(>ars, with not half so nnieh water 
 as our great Niagara, a Buifalo man said not one-third ; yet it 
 was well worth a visit. 
 
 Comparing this w ith the otlier two gi-rat cataracts nf the 
 world, N'icto ria aiuT .Niagara, the A t'n c.in l';ill Icids in hfJLdit 
 _\\itli a leap Iroin L'lii to •><)<' I'l'd. that of tlu' luriiassi'i is 
 J9(i-21() fei't. and Niagara hut If)!) KM. The width of the 
 Vietoi'ia IS slightly moi-e than Xia^Mi-a 's ; the Ignassu with 
 its 13,123 feet has moi'c than donlile the breadth. In tlie 
 volume of water also the Ignassu is greater at times, perhap? 
 with a gi'cater average, but at low water it is fai- less. Oui 
 great Niagara thus seems outdone by both, whih' in the mag- 
 ical beauty of the surroundings there is no comparison. The 
 Arg(Mitine Government is already awake to the necessity of 
 preserving from sjjoliation by the greedy and destructive 
 hands of men this one of the world's marvels for the admira- 
 tion and enjoyment of posterity, and is planning for the de- 
 velopment here of a great National Park, foreseeing that vis-
 
 260 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 itors will come from all parts of Europe and America when 
 aware of the attractions and that the comforts of travel will 
 be supplied. 
 
 One having the spirit of the true explorer may continue 
 up the Alto Parana River, now dividing- Paraguay from 
 Brazil, 125 miles farther, to the foaming cataracts of La 
 Guaijm, sometimes called the Seven Falls and said to be the 
 mightiest on earth. Above these is a great lake from which 
 the water emerging comes down over precipices through a 
 narrow gorge at one point but 250 feet wide The waters 
 drop in one leap after another 310 feet, descending into the 
 gorge below with a force so tremendous as to form a mael- 
 strom by the side of which the Niagara whirlpool is a quiet 
 spot. They are calculated all together to have a force of 
 4.3 million horsepower, from a mass of 13,000,000 cubic feet a 
 minute. Four hundred miles farther up stream are the 
 Uberaponga Falls. 
 
 Ruins. One who delights in these will find a further at- 
 traction in the territory of Misiones. Not so ancient as the 
 Inca and other remains in Peru and Bolivia, they still have an 
 interesting history. Here in Misiones, and in neighboring 
 regions of Brazil, occurred the earliest and most successful 
 attempt yet made for the civilization of native tribes, instead 
 of their extermination or exploitation, ruthlessly practiced 
 for centuries in most parts of North and South America. 
 The earliest settlements of the Indians made by the Jesuits 
 were in the countries of Paraguay and Brazil ; but as a result 
 of the attacks of the Portuguese, who carried the Indians off 
 into slavery, the Jesuits migrated to the south shores of the 
 Alto Parana and to the region along the Uruguay, taking 
 with them their proteges, who through humane treatment had 
 become submissive to their influence. Thirty villages were 
 ultimately established, which in 1732 were in a prosperous 
 condition with 30,362 families. Envy thus arose from which 
 and other reasons the Jesuits were expelled from the colonies 
 as also from Spain in 1768. Bereft of their leaders the In- 
 dians, happily domesticated and employed, soon began to 
 scatter, and in 1817 the villages were destroyed. The ruins 
 of these large establishments, surrounded and overgrown by
 
 PARAGUAY 261 
 
 thick woods, are mute, iinpre.ssive wiliics.ses ol" tlie criminal 
 folly of man and of the destructive power of nature. 
 
 Such ruins exist at Aposfolcs, a railway station 35 miles 
 from Posadas, though the best preserved are at San Ifjuacio 
 Mini, 11 miles from Santa Ana, 1\[> miles from the bank of 
 the Parana. 
 
 Historical 
 
 Before crossing- the river into Paraguay, a glance at its strange 
 history is in order. Wonderful indeed it appears, that almost in 
 the center of this great continent, eight hundred miles from the 
 sea, a city Avas founded August 1.3, 153(), by three hundred Span- 
 iards, a full century before Koger Williams made a settlement on 
 the shores of Narragansett Bay and seventy-one years i)rior to the 
 first English colony establislied in North America. The names of 
 Juan de Ayolas and his faithful aid, Captain Martinez de Iraia, 
 should stand out more prominently in the list of American pioneers, 
 A land route to the newly discovered rich gold country of Peru was 
 what they were seeking. With this end in view Ayolas establi-shed 
 a fortified settlement on the site of Asuncion; then having made 
 peace with the Indians he pursued his way north and west in the 
 hope of winning through to Peru. For this purpose he had been 
 sent by Pedro de Mendoza, after that leader had established a small 
 colony at Buenos Aires. Sailing up the river to a natural ]iort 
 which he called La Candelaria, he left here the ships with Irala and 
 forty men, with orders to wait for him four months. Then ho 
 plunged into the vast and gloomy forest. 
 
 Somewhat later the Governor of Buenos Aires, Francisco Ruiz 
 Galen, hearing of Ayolas' disappearance, with six shijis and two 
 hundred men, sailed up to Asuncion, arriving about when Irala for 
 the second time returned fiom La Candelaria for necessary sup- 
 plies. Galen, asserting autliority, refused Irala a vessel to g<i back. 
 Months elajised before the faithful Irala with angry urging at length 
 obtained the vessel. It was now the autunm of ir);}S, long after 
 the time set for Ayolas' return. Still Irala waited, iinmrant tluit 
 Ayolas and all his followers were lying dead in the forest not far 
 distant. For while Irala had been urging his demaml for the ves- 
 sel and supplies, Aynlas, who had journeyed ar'oiig Imstile Indians, 
 swamps, and forests to the mtmntains of Ciiarcas, had returned un- 
 scathed with gold and silver to find the banks of the river de- 
 serted aiul no vessel in wailing. The tragedy was pomi)lete when 
 the Indians fell ui)ou the little band and slaughtered eveiy one.
 
 262 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Again Irala descended to Asuncion and again returned to wait, till 
 at last he learned from the Indians of the unhappy fate of his 
 chief and sadly went back to Asuncion. There he was enthusiastic- 
 ally acclaimed Governor and Captain-General of the colony. 
 
 Although his subsequent career was far from smooth he was 
 more fortunate, as well as more faithful and able, than most of 
 the conquistadores, at last, while still in office, dying peacefully, in 
 1557, at the age of seventy. Years of jealousy and strife followed. 
 Meanwhile the settlement at Buenos Aires had been abandoned. 
 Though re-established in 1580, Asuncion remained the chief Span- 
 ish city on the eastern slope of South America until near the close 
 of the eighteenth century. When, however, in 1776 a Viceroy was 
 appointed for the region of La Plata, he had his seat in Buenos 
 Aires. Some time after the revolution there of May 25, 1810, a 
 small army was sent from Buenos Aires to Paraguay with the ex- 
 pectation that they too would revolt. Instead, the Argentines were 
 defeated; but a little later the people of Paraguay demanded the 
 resignation of Governor Velazco. It was given and a new gov- 
 ernment was peacefully organized, to be followed by many changes, 
 until in 1844 Carlos Antonio Lopez was elected President. This 
 office he held until his death in 1862 when he was succeeded by his 
 son, Francisco, both men being really dictators. Unfortunately the 
 son, who had visited Europe, conceived the idea of becoming a 
 second Napoleon, and at once began to strengthen and discii^line the 
 army and to fortify the country. Uruguay, as usual involved in 
 difficulties, appealed to Lopez for assistance against Brazil. Lopez, 
 on his way to invade that country crossed Argentine territory al- 
 though permission had been refused. L^ruguay meanwhile becom- 
 ing reconciled with Brazil, Paraguay became mvolved in a war 
 against these three countries. Presumably, a war between one small 
 counti*y and the two greatest of South America would be of short 
 duration. Not so! Six years the Avar continued, inflicting upon 
 the little country, through slaughter and disease, loss and suffering 
 unparalleled, costing the allies also severe distress. No more heroic 
 struggle is recorded in history. Though with a splendid army of 
 fighters, the resources of Paraguay gradually diminished, a victory 
 winning no lasting good. A chain barrier fixed across the river, 
 with fortifications, long kept the enemy out. Wooden cannon were 
 constructed from the hardwood of the forest; but at last the forts 
 were passed. In December, 1868, after a severe defeat, Lopez 
 abandoned Asuncion to continue his struggle in the interior. De- 
 feated in August, 1869, in a last battle, he fled farther into the for- 
 est, till finally, March, 1870, his horse becoming mired in a swamp, 
 he was killed by a spear thrust after refusmg to surrender.
 
 UP THE PARANA RIVER 263 
 
 Freed at last from his ruthless domination the country had 
 peace; but alas! of the population of nearly a million and a half 
 six years earlier, but 280,000 it is said remained. An army deci- 
 mated is supi)osed to suffer terrible loss. Here five-sixths of the 
 entire poj^ulation perished, the cattle and afrricultural resources were 
 destroj'ed. Few able-bodied men had survived; boys even to the 
 age of ten had been impressed into the army; delit-ate women had 
 been compelled to work in the fields for the production of jrrain to 
 sustain life, and had suffered many unspeakable hardships. The 
 struggle of the Greeks against the Persians was not so desperate, 
 or prolonged to so bitter an end. This, moreover, was wholly lui- 
 necessaiy, the Dictator Lopez being the culpable aggressor; none the 
 less, this story of the unparalleled heroism of a people should be 
 more familiar to the world outside. 
 
 A season of recuperation and freedom followed, but many yeai-s 
 were needed for the nation to retrieve in population and resources 
 the position it held before the Avar. Not yet indeed are the inhabit- 
 ants so numerous, nor have they learned the advantages of peace. 
 No longer ago than November, 1911, an insurrection broke out, 
 which for six months or more caused devastation and bloodshed. It 
 is to be hoped that peace will now be preserved. 
 
 Curiously enough, the people of Paraguay i>ride themselves upon 
 being the most homogeneous and imited of all the South American 
 Republics, as they are among the best fighters. Not that they are 
 of pure Spanish descent! They are an amalgamation of the early 
 Spanish settlers w-ith the Guaranis, the most numerous and intelli- 
 gent of the Indian tribes in the neighborhood. An illustration of 
 the fallacy of certain theories, the result is a strong and handsome 
 white race, preserving with Spanish culture and virtues the warlike 
 nature of the Guaranis and unusual virility for a people on the 
 edge of the tropics. 
 
 From Posadas across the river to Villa Encarnaciun the 
 tlirough trains are now carried on large ferry boats a.s 
 planned. The journey to Asuncion may therefore be made 
 by through ears fi"oni l^uonos Aires, the road having rt'ccntly 
 been "widened, and iron bridges erected over the various 
 streams. It is a pretty, rolling country, still spars4'ly set- 
 tled, with forests, open grass lands, and occasional small 
 villages and farms. 
 
 By River to Asuncion. Should one prefer to sail up the 
 river to Asuncion and i-eturn by land, whieli on .some aeeount.s 
 might be the more pleasurable, one would drive in the early
 
 264 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 morning to the docks of the Darsena Sud, whence the great 
 steamers of the IMihnnovich Lines ply to Montevideo and to 
 the north. Also there are boats of the Lloyd liraziliero twice 
 a month. Excellent steamers provide every essential com- 
 fort, and the person for whom the sea is too boisterous may 
 find pleasure in this experience. Unless with a considerable 
 party one should be something of a linguist to enjoy fully the 
 excursion, as the crowd will be cosmopolitan, representing 
 perhaps a dozen different countries. 
 
 A multitude of vessels will be passed ere the ship sails 
 freel}^ on the great brown stream, so like the sea except in 
 color. It first seems like a river, only on the entrance to the 
 Parana, where the steamer winds in and out among low 
 islands, fringed with rushes and willows. Several ports are 
 passed on the left bank, but most of the way now, as far as 
 Corrientes, the stream is so wide that only one bank is visible. 
 The water swirls along 2i/2 knots an hour. There are vistas 
 of green and silver, occasional sails, and gradually higher 
 banks. 
 
 Rosario. The first call is made next morning at this, the 
 second city in Argentina, wdth nearly 200,000 population, 
 founded by Francisco Godoy in 1725, but having small pros- 
 perity until, in 1859, General Urquiza made it a port of entry. 
 Ocean steamers drawing 24 feet come to its docks, for as a 
 grain port it leads Buenos Aires. The citj^ is situated on 
 bluffs, one says 60, another, 300 feet high. An expensive sys- 
 tem of docks has been arranged to suit the varying height of 
 the river. Sacks of grain are sent down through chutes into 
 the holds of the vessels. The river here is said to be 20 miles 
 wide, though with numerous islands it does not so appear. 
 
 Rosario is a great railway center, roads leading to ]Men- 
 doza and the Trans-Andine, to Bolivia, of course to the Capi- 
 tal and to other cities ; it is expected that a road soon will ex- 
 tend to the Amazon basin. Rosario compares with Buenos 
 Aires somewhat as Chicago with New York; it may have a 
 similar if less rapid development. On higher land, with wider 
 streets than Buenos Aires, in other respects it is naturally in- 
 ferior. There are several hotels, the Grand, Central, Royal, 
 Britannia, and Frascati called comfortable, with prices more 
 moderate, as they should be; the new Victoria Restaurant is
 
 JUDICIARY BUILDING, UOsAUlO 
 
 BESIDENCE ON AN AUOENTINE ESTANCIA.
 
 UP THE PARANA RIVER 265 
 
 good enough for any one. There are excellent public build- 
 ings, especially a magnificent Custom House, the Palace of 
 Justice, a busy Bolsa (Excluiiiu'e) on calle Cordoba, a hand- 
 some street ^\'ith good shops; a beautiful park, boulevards, and 
 fine dwellings. Electric cars supply adequate service. There 
 are many English here, who have a pleasant Club; also there 
 is a Strangers' Club. 
 
 Parana. Above Rosario a call on tlie other side is made at 
 Diamante, then one at Parana, capital of the Entre Rios 
 Province, a pleasant towTi of 30,000, founded in 1730 by a 
 colony from Santa Fe. On the Plaza de ]Mayo is an imposing 
 Government Building, and a Catliedral whose twin white 
 towers are seen afar. The Plaza Alvear near the river is more 
 beautiful, with graceful palms and flowering trees, above 
 which rise the towers of a fine church, the San ]\Iiguel. The 
 Paseo Rivadavia, a broad, shaded promenade, conducts to the 
 Urquiza Gardens. Here broad walks and stone stairways, 
 among blossoming shrubs and flowers, and handsome trees, 
 lead down to the river or to the top of gentle slopes, which 
 afford a panorama of the winding river and of a l)road 
 expanse of rolling country, especially admirable after the flat 
 plain, A large new theater offers entertainment. We have 
 doubtless all heard that "If wishes were horses, beggars might 
 ride," and in Parana they really do. The city has electric 
 cars, the workshops of the p]ntre Rios railway, and is a dis- 
 tributing and shipping point of importance, also an educa- 
 tional center. One interested in this phase of Argen- 
 tine life may visit the School Alberdi, seven miles distant, 
 a Normal College of Agriculture, the only one in the Republic. 
 It aims to furnish all the learning necessary for rural man- 
 agers, the knowledge requisite for the administration of an 
 estancia, both for cattle raising and agriculture, to give in- 
 formation as to suitable exi)]oitatiou of especial sites, and, 
 besides furnishing teehnieal knowU'dge, to develop initiative, 
 perseverance, and ability for direction and organization. The 
 estate covers 1000 acres, cultivating wheat, flax, corn, oats, 
 alfalfa, ]iotatoes, ])esi(]es 5000 trees of elioiee varieties. 
 
 Santa Fe. Opposite Parana is Colastinc, the port of Santa 
 Fc, the former for ocean vessels, sinaUer river steamers oidy 
 sailing up the tributaiy, Quiloaza, to the capital city, seven
 
 266 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 years older than Buenos Aires. This also was founded by Juan 
 de Garay, a short distance from the larger river, as in those 
 days of smaller vessels a quieter port was desirable than the un- 
 ruly Parana. Once a rival of Rosario, it has now witli a i)opu- 
 lation of 50,000 been left far in the rear. 
 
 One of the public buildings, the Casa de Senadores, is a 
 historic place where in troublous times five National conven- 
 tions have been held, 1828-31-53-G0-66 ; many provincial 
 assemblies have met here for constitutional reforms of the 
 Province. From the lofty tower there is a fine view of the 
 city and surrounding country. Among other important 
 buildings are schools, a Public Asylum, and several churches, 
 the Metropolitan erected 1741 originally with a single nave, 
 two being added in 1834. Some historic relics within are four 
 splendid marble basins for holy water, gift of the Tyrant 
 Rosas, a chasuble of richly embroidered satin made at 
 Misiones about the middle of the last century, a painting from 
 Cuzco, of date 1751, representing the beheading of Saint 
 Firmin, a Christ sculptured in relief on a block of fine white 
 marble framed in Corinthian bronze, and a portrait of Saint 
 Peter. The Church of St. Domingo, corner 3rd of February 
 and 9th of July, commenced in 1786, now entirely renewed, 
 contains a silver tabernacle with Byzantine design, a diadem 
 of the patriarch Santo Domingo, and other valuable relics. 
 San Francisco Church, Comercio and Ecuador streets, begun 
 in 1652, completed 1680, has relics of the noted general, Stan- 
 islas Lopez, who is buried under the cupola, and a remarkable 
 Jesus of Nazareth. La Merced, on Comercio and Gen. Lopez 
 streets, built in 1728, contains a fine oil painting of the Vir- 
 gin. The Cathedral now in construction, in the form of a 
 Latin cross, will be a monumental work. A statue of San 
 Martin, like the one in B. A., adorns the plaza of his name, the 
 pedestal representing a condor, the symbol of strength and of 
 the victories of the great General contributing to the Inde- 
 pendence. A municipal theater which cost $125,000 has a 
 handsomely decorated foyer. The hotels. Grand, Central, etc., 
 are all rather poor. 
 
 Higher up the Parana, towns are more scattered but calls 
 are more frequent. Santa Elena is a town with a large 
 saladero, a meat-curing factory. At La Paz wood and char-
 
 UP THE PARANA RIVER 267 
 
 coal are an important element of trade. The scenery becomes 
 more pleasing. A severe thunderstorm may all'ord temporary 
 excitement. Crude native l)oats floating down stream are 
 met, bamboo laden schooners, rafts of quebracho timber. 
 These, too heavy to float, are supported by common wood 
 placed beneath. The ports Bella ]'is(a and rircujitacHo are 
 centers of the quebracho industry. Tliis remarkable wood, 
 the name meaning liatchet-])reaker, one of the hardest known 
 species, is largely used for raihvay ties throughout Soutli 
 America, and to some extent for furniture. From the red 
 colored variety tannin is extracted, so valuable in the tan- 
 ning of hides. This was first effected in Prance in 1874. In 
 1889 the first factoiy for tannin manufacture -was erected at 
 Puerto Casado, Paraguay, the country where it is most largely 
 produced. 
 
 Conientes, founded April 3, 1588, with 25,000 jiopulation, 
 is an important and busy place, exporting rich wttods for 
 building and cabinet making, sugar, cotton, and tobacco, 
 horses, sheep, and cattle. The city, three days from Buenos 
 Aires, is 25 miles from the junction of the two great rivers, 
 the Alto Parana and the Paraguay, and from the frontier. 
 To visit by this route Posadas and the Iguassu Falls one 
 would here change to a boat of lighter draft, as rapids below 
 Posadas allow' passage in the dry season of steaimM-s drawing 
 no more than three feet. 
 
 To Asuncion one continues in the same steamer, as the 
 Paraguay River, though considerably narrower, permits 
 steamers of 12 feet draft up to that city. Floating islands 
 are frequent, orchids and parrots ai'c numerous; alligators in 
 profusion bask in the sun, disdaining to move at the oeeasitjual 
 crack of a rifle aimed in their direction. Islands of gi-een 
 with flow'ers of lavender float upon the stream. lilossoms 
 of purple and of white depend from the creepers which em- 
 brace the trees of the forest. Giant scarlet flowers a foot in 
 diameter spring from a green cactus. Human life is rare. 
 
 The first halt in Paraguay, now on the rigiit bank, wliilo 
 Argentina contiiuies on tlie h-ft, is HHnianta where the fa- 
 miliar colors red, white, and blue, appear instead of tlie Ar- 
 gentine blue and wliite (tnly. This being a garrison town, 
 low barracks are visible and .soldiers in khaki. A conspicuous
 
 268 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 object is a great red brick cburcb, battered and rent from 
 top to bottom, a mute and mournful ^vitness of tbat strange 
 six years' war. Attacked by tbe allies, the defensive army 
 under Col. Martinez made long and suitable resistance, at 
 length retreating to the church which was bom])arded from 
 the boats. Surrender was at last compelled. Lopez at this 
 was so enraged that, as Martinez was not at hand, he seized 
 his wife and dragged her along with his army. After suf- 
 fering frightful tortures, her hair mostly torn from her head, 
 she suffered death from merciful bullets. That she was a 
 relative of Lopez was nothing to the monster of cruelty who 
 caused a brother to be shot and his own mother to be flogged. 
 
 The country on the left with low banks is called the Chaco, 
 first the Argentine, and above Asuncion the Paraguayan ; it 
 is a wonderful section many times traversed, but not yet 
 thoroughly explored; with the region to the north one of the 
 least known parts of the earth. From the highlands of 
 Bolivia at the northwest the slope is extremely gradual caus- 
 ing many swamps. With some poor land there is more with 
 rich vegetation, immense forests, wild animals of many kinds, 
 including boa constrictors. And there is a tale of a creature 
 called ]\Iboyi Jagwa, dog snake, a water serpent unknown to 
 science, 60 or 70 feet long with a head like a dog and a hooked 
 tail. The Indians all agree in their description of it, and one 
 village moved to another part of the country because one of 
 these creatures had settled near by. 
 
 Two days have passed on the clearer waters of the Para- 
 guay when a strange sight appears in this alluvial land ; some 
 large stone buildings and great boulders of red stone along the 
 bank, then a rock}^ sugar loaf mountain, not very high, a mere 
 babe of a mountain, but a pleasing sight in this flat land. A 
 different country is here ; red cliffs, honeycombed with caves, 
 rise from the shore. One more corner, and the city of 
 Asuncion appears, after so much wilderness, an imposing 
 display of white walls, roofs and spires, facing not only the 
 stream up which we have sailed, but the broad Pilcomayo, 
 flowing in from the northwest, which marks on that side the 
 boundary between Argentina and Paraguay. 
 
 Asuncion, capital of Paraguay, is called by one English 
 writer the cleanest, nicest town on the river above Buenos
 
 ASUNCION 269 
 
 Aires. Situated on a hillside above the stream, it has fine 
 natural drainage; and good air and sunshine make it a healthy 
 place, to which many come from the south to recover from 
 tuberculosis. A thousand miles from the sea it is only 203 
 feet above the ocean's level. "With a population of 80,000 it 
 is still a quiet, sleepy town; for several hours at noon in sum- 
 mer the streets are practically deserted. The Gran Hotel del 
 Paraguay is supplied with baths, has French cooking, and 
 English is spoken. A Paraguayan peso is said to be worth 8 
 cents gold, so it may be well not to have too many. 
 
 On the main Plaza, of course, is the Government Palace, 
 which was built by Lopez just before the war and is now u.sed 
 for the offices of the President and the ^Members of his Cab- 
 inet; the second story windows afford a splendid view; here 
 a breeze is ever ])lowing. The Xational Libranj deserves a 
 visit, for it contains the finest existing collection of old Span- 
 ish documents connected with the history of the Plata region, 
 and Jesuit ainials from 1034 to 1600; interesting aceounts 
 also of what was nearly a condition of State Socialism under 
 Dr. Prancia and the elder Lopez. These documents, carried 
 off by the younger Lopez when he abandoned the capital, 
 were for many years in peasants' houses at Piribe])uy, where 
 many valuable manuscripts were used as waste paper. 
 
 The Mhsco de Bellas Aries boasts of at least one Murillo 
 and half a dozen other paintings which would adorn any 
 European collection ; portraits too of many historical jier- 
 sonages. The streets, paved with stone and lined with wliite- 
 washed walls, well reflect the sun ; here is repeated the saying 
 that only the English and mad dogs walk on the sunny side 
 of the street, although the climate even in sumiiu'r is not 
 marked by extreme heat. From Taoumbu, the summit of the 
 ridge above the town, a beaulil'ul view will be liad of long 
 stretches of winding river up an<l down, and leagues over tiie 
 Chaco forests opposite as well as the rolling eountry to the 
 east. The forests are not of one or a ft'W kinds of trees. 
 Out of a number of 16:?, in a spaee 100 yards si|uare, llu-re 
 were 47 (not 57) varieties. The land is well adapted to 
 intensive cultivation, on account of the great variety of prod- 
 ucts which may be raised. There is good Imnting. boar, 
 jaguar, monkeys, red wolf, etc., and a great field for scien-
 
 270 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tists in both vegetable and animal worlds. Also there is a 
 chance for the treasure seeker ; for when Lopez fled from the 
 capital he took with him seven cartloads of specie, at least 
 $5,()()0,()00. One cartload, on account of hot pursuit, was 
 dumped over the bank into a river. The rest was carried on 
 and buried in the midst of a swamp where it was marked by 
 a wooden cross. This cross w^as burned in a prairie fire, 
 Lopez and all of his men perished, the records were lost ; but 
 one man is reported as living who followed the wheel tracks 
 to the end. However, the money obviously belonged to the 
 Government of Paraguay and if found, which is improbable, 
 a good portion at least would have to be forfeited to the 
 Government. 
 
 Every one who comes to Asuncion will wish to purchase a 
 bit of Nanduty lace, as it is called, a specialty of Paraguayan 
 handiwork, some of it very fine and beautiful. It bears re- 
 semblance in patterns to Mexican drawn work ; it is not, how- 
 ever, drawn, but is genuine lace. It may be purchased also 
 in Buenos Aires; perhaps sometimes in Montevideo, but none 
 could be found there in 1912 in spite of a strenuous hunt, 
 nor in Rio either. The prices are moderate, and no man need 
 hesitate about purchasing a piece. No woman will. 
 
 Another specialty of Paraguay is the yerha mate, some- 
 times called Paraguay tea, which is raised also in neighbor- 
 ing parts of Argentina and Brazil. This herb. Ilex para- 
 guayensis, or South American holly, grows as a bush or tree 
 resembling the orange. The leaves, which are bright green, 
 are used to make a tea, in these three countries very popular 
 with natives, and with many immigrants ; it is being gradually 
 introduced into Europe. The leaf is smoked and powdered. 
 The beverage is made by putting some of this powder into a 
 small gourd called a mate, and pouring on boiling water. 
 After it has steeped a while, flavored with lemon or sugar, 
 it is drunk through a homhilla, a tube enlarged at the end to a 
 sort of oval ball, with small holes which admit the liquid, but 
 are supposed to keep out the powdered tea. The natives and 
 others drink this on all occasions. Taken in moderation it 
 is very wholesome, of more or less the same class as tea and 
 cofl^ee, but containing less tannin than either; of caffein or 
 thein it has less than tea but about the same as coffee. It
 
 IGUASSU FALLS AND PARAGUAY 271 
 
 does not irritate but soothes the nervous system, and is lii-ne- 
 ficial to tlie digestion unless used to exci-ss. Wht-n used 
 instead of food it becomes injurious. Thus a gentleman, 
 Scotch, who had been in the habit of taking 12 or 14 cups in 
 the morning and eating nothing until noon, at length found 
 himself in a l)ad way. Placed by his doctor on a sensible diet, 
 a good breakfast with only 2 or 3 cups of tnatc, he found his 
 health soon restored. It is estimated that in South America, 
 despite the great coffee production, 10,000,000 persons drink 
 mate. It is sold in England, France, Germany, and other 
 countries of Europe, the United States being slowest in learn- 
 ing to appreciate its excellence. In 1909 more than 2 million 
 pounds were produced. Plantations are now being set out 
 and its production and consumption are certain to increase 
 amazingly.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 URUGUAY 
 
 The country of Uruguay has the distinction of being the 
 youngest, and the smallest in area, of all of the South Amer- 
 ican Republics. It must not, however, be inferred that it is 
 therefore the most backward. On the contrary, its financial 
 reputation is of the best, its bonds selling in Europe at par 
 and above, while the population to the square mile is greater 
 than that of any other country in South America. Although 
 small, indeed, by the side of its neighbors, Brazil and Argen- 
 tina, it is twice the size of Portugal and about the same size as 
 New England combined with Maryland ; a trifle smaller than 
 the Brazilian State of Sao Paulo, or than our State of 
 Nebraska. 
 
 History 
 
 While the veiy first landing in the Plata River section was 
 naturally made in this country, Juan Diaz de Solis with fifty of his 
 followers here going ashoi'e in 1515, unfortunately to meet death at 
 the hands of hostile Indians, the permanent settlement of Monte- 
 video was delayed until December 24, 1726. The Charrua Indians 
 inhabiting the country seem to have been a particularly fierce tribe, 
 and several attempts at settlement in various places resulted dis- 
 astrously. In the seventeenth century, a number of colonies had 
 been established by the Franciscans and Jesuits, including one at 
 Colonia, which site with the countiy in general, at that time called 
 the Banda Oriental, was long a bone of contention between the 
 Spanish and the Portuguese. 
 
 After the Junta of Buenos Aires had in 1810 established its rule 
 within its own borders, Montevideo was for a short time the seat 
 of the Spanish Viceroy; but the people of Uruguay soon became 
 eager for independence and under the leadership of Artigas a war 
 was waged for years, sometimes against the Spanish, then against 
 the Portuguese, and even the Porteiios of Buenos Aires. After 
 the destruction of the Spanish fleet by Admiral Brown, Montevideo, 
 June 20, 1814, surrendered to the besieging army, and tlie Span- 
 ish power on the River Plata was ended. General Alvear of 
 
 272
 
 URUGUAY 273 
 
 Buenos Aires, for a short time in command, presently withdrew 
 leaving the city in tiie hands of one of Artijras' lieutenants, the 
 General remaining in camp on the Uruguay River. In 181(j the 
 Portuguese from Biazil invaded the country, and Artigas was 
 finally obliged to take refuge in Paraguay. 
 
 When in 1S2-1 the power of Spain was finally destroyed on the 
 whole continent, Uruguay alone was desliiute of independence. 
 In the midst of rejoicing at Buenos Aires over the victory of 
 Aj-acucho, Lavalleja, who had earlier distinguished himself against 
 the Spaniards, and other exiles from Uruguay were moved to free 
 their own country from foreign dominion. It was a small band of 
 thirty-three men, Treinta y Tres, now a popular name in Uruguay, 
 that set out from Buenos Aires for the invasion of that country. 
 Having crossed the Uruguay Kivcr, they soon obtained forty re- 
 cruits and after a brief skirmish with the Portuguese forces took 
 the town of Dolores. General Rivera, sent against Lavalleja, for- 
 sook the Brazilian service and with his men joined the patriots. 
 Soon the whole of Uruguay was in arms, an independent govern- 
 ment was established at Florida. The Portuguese fleet was later 
 defeated by the Argentine Admiral Brown, and a series of victories 
 culminating in the battle of Ituzaingo, which made the expulsion of 
 the Portuguese seem inevitable, incited Lavalleja in October, 1.S27, 
 to proclaim himself Dictator, though in July, 1S2.S, he voluntarily 
 resigned the ollice. In August both Argentina and Brazil ac- 
 knowledged the independence of L'ruguay and on May 1, IS'JO, the 
 national authorities made a formal entiy into Montevideo. 
 
 After a constitution had been adopted, July IS, 1S30, the Na- 
 tional Assembly in October elected Rivera President, to the great 
 disgust of Lavalleja who at once plotted against the government. 
 Rivera, however, twice drove him from the country into Brazil 
 and served his term of four years. The second President was 
 General Oribe, one of the Thirty-three, who combiiu'il wilii Lavalleja 
 against Rivera and, with the assistance of the Argentine Dictator 
 Rosas, defeated him in a battle which was of especial historical 
 importance from the fact that the red and wiiite colors were used 
 to distinguish the forces, ever since emblems of bitter strife as 
 the badges of the two parties called Colnrados, Reds, and BUmcos, 
 Whites, the former that of Rivera, the latter of Oribe. 
 
 Fighting was almost continuous until the fall of Rosas in I^^-IL 
 Giro became the fourth President in IS'/J but in 1S.')3 revolts began 
 again. The deaths of Rivera and Tiavalleja about this time had 
 no effect in promoting jicnce. Strife continued luitil in February, 
 ISfio, Flores, having obtained the active su])port of Brazil and en- 
 tered Montevideo, was made Dictator of the Republic. Then littlo
 
 274 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Paraguay, previously asked to interfere, jealous of Brazil's power, 
 continued the light. And Paraguay, with her army of 80,000 men, 
 might have been equal to any one of the countries alone. During 
 this war Flores, who was of the Colorado party, was assassinated 
 in Montevideo, a terrible visitation of cholera occurred in 1868, and 
 a financial crisis that ruined thousands in 1869. Troubles were in- 
 cessant and up to the present time hardly a single President has 
 had an entirely peaceful term. That after this prolonged condition 
 of turbulence, the Kepublic shows so remarkable a degree of devel- 
 opment and i^rosperity is wonderful indeed. 
 
 As to the country in general, it may be said that while it 
 possesses no striking features such as lofty mountains or great 
 waterfalls, it is a beautifully diversified region, with no flat 
 or desert land, but with low ridges, valleys, and rolling plains, 
 in some parts well wooded. It is admirably adapted for graz- 
 ing and agricultural products. The climate is healthful and 
 delightful, the population, numbering about 1,300,000, is more 
 homogeneous than in most of the Republics, and forms an 
 enterprising and progressive nation. 
 
 Montevideo 
 
 Hotels. Pyramides, Sarandi corner Ituzaingo; Grand Hotel 
 Lanaita, Sarandi 325; Central, 25 de Mayo, 245; Oriental, Solis, 
 corner Piedras; Palacio, Calle Florida; Globe, 25 de Agosto and 
 Colon. In the suburbs, Parque Urbano, and Pocitos. 
 
 Excellent electric cars and service. Fare in center of the city, 
 4 cents, farther out 6, 8, 10, and to Colon, 14 cts. Carriage fare 
 $1.00 or $1.50 an hour. Post Office, Sarandi 207. Postage, letters 
 to United States or Europe, 8 cents; cards, 2 cents. 
 
 Uruguay dollars, pesos, are worth a little more than the Ameri- 
 can ; $10.00 United States currency equals $9.66 Uruguay. Or $1.00 
 Uruguay equals about $1.04 of our money. 
 
 The office of the United States Minister is on the 18 de Julio, 
 221, that of the American Consul in Treinta y Tres, 53. The Brit- 
 ish Legation is at 445, 25 de Mayo, the Consulate at 20 Parana. 
 
 On landing at Montevideo a carriage may be taken to the 
 hotel preferred, or decision reserved until they have been 
 inspected. No one in the center of the city is pre-eminent but 
 several will be found satisfactory except to the hyper-critical. 
 First may be mentioned the Pyramides Hotel on Sarandi at
 
 MOXTEVIDEO 275 
 
 the corner of Ituzainf;6, near the Plaza Constitiu-ion, liiglily 
 spoken of. Better known is the Grand Hotel Lanatta far-ing 
 the same plaza; the Oriental Hotel, the Central, the Colon, tlie 
 Florida, are all available, close to the center of the city. 
 
 A clean, homelike, and agreeable city is ]\Iontivideo, most 
 attractive as a place of residence, and preferred l)y many to 
 the great metropolis farther up the river, with its million 
 more inhabitants. About the size of our own capital, Wash- 
 ington, it is large enough for all practical purj)0ses, and is the 
 home of a wide-awake community. Several days should be 
 devoted to the various objects of interest, which include parks, 
 suburban and seaside resorts of great beauty and elegance. 
 
 Sight-seeing may be commenced with a stroll in the center 
 of the city, after which excursions by car or carriage will 
 be in order. As in Buenos Aires, the cars are conveniently 
 numbered, which renders the service especially valuable to 
 strangers. 
 
 Plaza Constitucion, sometimes called the Matriz, is a good 
 place to begin. Of the twelve large plazas, this, with several 
 others, has a pretty garden occupying the center. On the east 
 side is the Cahildo, a quaint old building now used for the 
 Legislative Assemblies, the only building of historic impor- 
 tance in the city, which is practically all new. Opposite is the 
 Cathedral with tow^ers 133 feet high. To the handsome in- 
 terior, paintings and other decorations have recently been 
 added, and there is a sweet-toned organ. On the soutii side 
 next to the Lanatta Hotel is the Uruguay Club, which is hand- 
 somely housed, its imposing salon for receptions and balls the 
 occasional rendezvous of the elite of the city. On the north 
 side of the plaza is the home of the Eitfjlish Chih. 
 
 On the Plaza lnd< pcndcncia not far away, reached by the 
 calle Sarandi, is the Government Palace containing the oftices 
 of the President and Ministers, jiresently to be superseded ])y 
 a splendid structure on the principal avenue, IS de Julio. 
 Just oft" the corner of this plaza is the Solis Thtatir, with a 
 handsome Ionic front, a rather ancient building for .Mon- 
 tevideo, more than fifty years old, its right wing housing the 
 ]\Iuseum. The theater which has recently been remodeleil, 
 now seating over 'M)00, is one of the line establishments of 
 South America, though rivaled in Montevideo by the newer
 
 276 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 theater Urquiza, corner of Ancles and Mercedes, which was 
 inaugurated by Bernliardt in 1905. In one or the other of 
 these have appeared nearly all of the most noted European 
 artists, at least of the Latin races, stars of the drama and 
 of the opera both. The people are great lovers of the theater 
 and more than 2000 performances are given in a single year 
 with about two million spectators. 
 
 The Museum includes a considerable collection of specimens 
 of the natural history and geology of the country; many 
 relics of the native Indian tribes now altogether extinct, such 
 as hundreds of stone bolos and other weapons, with primitive 
 utensils; souvenirs of the colonial wars, and some paintings 
 by artists of Uruguay and Europe. 
 
 The new Legislative Palace on the Avenida Agraciada is a 
 magnificent building with two fine plazas in the front and the 
 rear, and space on all sides. The basement will contain fire- 
 proof chambers for the archives, and rooms for lighting, heat, 
 and service. The ground floor has a great vestibule and a 
 corridor 55 feet wide extending to the rear of the building, 
 crossed by three others 10 or 12 feet wide. Near the entrance 
 are quarters for the guard of honor, and farther in are rooms 
 for police, telephone and telegraph, wardrobes, and other pur- 
 poses. On the front a great marble staircase 55 feet wide 
 leads up from the ground to the entrance on the main floor. 
 Pedestals with costl}' bronze statues are designed to divide the 
 staircase into three sections. Two ramps, one on each side of 
 the stairway, permit the ascent of vehicles to the main en- 
 trance in front of a large hall, Pasos Perdidos, 55 feet %nde 
 and 160 long, embellished with columns, and with a staircase 
 leading to the floor above. The two large chambers for the 
 Senate and the Representatives, one on each side, are 66 feet in 
 diameter and two stories in height, with galleries for the Press 
 and the public. In the front of the building are salons for 
 the President and the Ministers, with private rooms, and at the 
 sides and back are rooms for the officials of Congress. The 
 design was one of the Argentine architect, Meano, modified 
 to suit local taste and conditions. The building, which was 
 to cost $2,000,000, is expected to be complete in 1916. 
 
 Other interesting buildings are those of the University, 
 the School of Arts and Trades, and the Agricultural Institute.
 
 MONTEVIDEO 277 
 
 There are two groups of new University buildings, erected at 
 a cost of $2,000,000; the one on the Ave. 18 de Julio contain- 
 ing the central oftiees of administration with tiie Schools of 
 Law and Commerce, the other, the several buildings contain- 
 ing the Medical School, the Chemistry Building, and housings 
 for the Institute of IIy<i:iene, Physiology, etc. Tiie Adminis- 
 tralion Building occupirs an entire block between Caiixua and 
 Yaro, where formerly was the School of Arts and Trades. 
 Of classical Italian architecture, with two stories and a high 
 basement, it contains ten class rooms seating from 50 to 100 
 each, two halls seating 200, and one accommodating 800. 
 There is a law library of 30,000 volumes, one of the best in 
 South America, while for the present the National Library 
 also is in the building. The large high school occupies a 
 handsome structure covering most of the block south, facing 
 on Lavalleja, It is well litted up with laboratories, gym- 
 nasium with baths and rest room, class rooms light and airy, 
 and with all modern scholarly and hygienic equipment. 
 
 The Medical ScJiool occupies the block formerly the Plaza 
 Sarandi, being surrounded l)y the streets Uruiaiayana, La- 
 dislao Terra, Yatay and ]\Iarelino Sosa, not far from the new 
 Congressional Palace. There are three separate buildings 
 which are arranged and fitted up in a style which would 
 meet the demands of such an institution anywhere. The cen- 
 tral part of the main building is occupied by the various 
 offices, council chamber, library, and reading room, a hall 
 seating 1000, etc. ; one wing is devoted to the Institute of 
 Physiology, the other to that of Anatomy. The Department 
 of Chemistry has a fine building on Ladislao Terra and Yatay, 
 the Department of Hygiene, one on Ladislao Terra aii<l 
 Uruguayana. 
 
 Other Schools which mij,'ht be connected with the Tnivi'r- 
 sity l)ut which have a distinct organization are the Agricul- 
 tural and the Veterinary. The latter is a little farllier out 
 on one of the principal avenues of the outer city, the Lar- 
 rauaga, with grounds covering 30 acres. It will ultimately 
 include a number of buildings for the various departments, 
 Laboratories, Clinics, Autopsies, etc., but at i>resent is con- 
 fined to laboratories, class rooms, and hall for clinics. The 
 School of Agriculture is a fine large building in the sulmrb
 
 278 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 of Sayago, 45 minutes by electrics from the center of the 
 city, fare 10 cents. The edifice contains excellent laboratories, 
 class rooms, and general offices, and is doing an important 
 work of great value to the country. The four-story building 
 near the harbor landing, formerly occupied by the University, 
 is now used as an Engineering School. 
 
 A Pedagogical Museum of considerable interest to one with 
 some knowledge of educational problems and work, is on the 
 north side of the Plaza Libertad next to the Athenaeum, an 
 institution of much literary and scientific importance in 
 ]\Iontevideo. 
 
 Another educational edifice whicli some may be glad to visit 
 is one which houses both the Military Academy and the Naval 
 School. The situation is a convenient one on the edge of the 
 city with grounds covering 30 acres, yet only 15 minutes by 
 electric car from the center of the town. The building with 
 a facade 250 feet long fronts on Ave. Garibaldi, but sets 
 back 60 feet allowing space for a pretty garden. In the left 
 wing are the class rooms of the Military School, in the right 
 those of the Naval. On the next floor are dormitories, baths, 
 etc. In the center are rooms common to both, a casino, fenc- 
 ing-room, and a large hall for festal occasions. Above is a 
 tower with steel cupola for the Astronomical Observatory. In 
 the rear are great depots, naval and military, a large gym- 
 nasium, a swimming tank, 100 by 150 feet, stables, hospitals, a 
 riding course, athletic field, etc. On the inside, covered gal- 
 leries permit passage from one building to another in the rain ; 
 the U shaped constructions surround a large space orna- 
 mented with trees. There is excellent ventilation in the main 
 building, windows on both sides, so that in class and in the 
 infirmary each student enjoys much more air space than the 
 highest amount prescribed. 
 
 The School of Arts and Trades in San Salvador street, be- 
 tween Minas and Magallanes, may be reached by cars 36 and 
 46. 
 
 Other institutions which may be visited are the Peniten- 
 tiary, the Markets, and the Cemeteries. The first may not 
 interest every tourist; but if one desires to see a model con- 
 struction of this category', arranged according to the most 
 modern tenets of penal science and of hygiene, the oppor-
 
 MONTEVIDEO 279 
 
 tunity here presented should be seized. It lias a fine situation 
 near the river on Punta Carreta (30 minutes by Car No. 35, 
 fare 8 cts.), especially open to the southeast winds well venti- 
 lating courts and interiors. Tiie reetanjijular i)lan was pre- 
 ferred to the ratlial. l>aek of the administration building 
 is the entrance to the prison j)roper, which is surrounded by 
 a great wall nearly 40 feet high. Here a military guard is 
 placed. On one side of a central corridor is tlie kitchen and 
 bakery, on the other, the laundi-y. Separated by a large 
 court from these is the prison house with 384 well lighted 
 cells, each 13 feet long, 8 wide, and over 10 feet high, fur- 
 nished with iron folding bed, book shelf, bench, and porcelain 
 bowl and se;it. Oix'ning on a coi'iidor 20 feet wide, the cells 
 are arranged in 4 stories, to which lead marble and iron stair- 
 cases and elevators. Fifty baths are at the service of the pris- 
 oners, who may choose either waiiii water or sea water for 
 their ablutions. Workshops of eight classes are provided for 
 the convicts: iron and tin work, carpentry, broom and shoe 
 making, printing, and book binding. Two patios, 160 by 220 
 feet, afford space for recreation, and there is room within the 
 enclosure for two more prison houses if at any time they are 
 needed. 
 
 Every one likes to see Markets if not prisons. Of these 
 there are four, most important, the new market Agricola for 
 wholesale trade, built of iron except for the base wall, and 
 roofed with glass according to the Dion system, the const ruc- 
 tion covering 65,000 square feet with a central height of 72 
 feet. Provision is made for the entrance and circulation 
 of carts; four galleries 45 feet wide surrounding the large cen- 
 tral open space provide shelter for attendants and for the 
 service of the market. 
 
 Of the four cemeteries, tiie (U niral at the foot of Yaguai-on 
 street is called the best; the Bucro, which is the largest, may be 
 reached by Car 30, and by Car 3S which runs to the suburb 
 Union, passing the Buceo and the l)eautiful lirllish Cemetery 
 adjoining. All of these are finely situated on a blulT almve 
 the water. They are adorned with trees and flowers, and con- 
 tain many fine monuments, some of whicii are sculptun-d by 
 noted artists. 
 
 The Parks and Watering Places, most iini);)rtant features
 
 280 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 of Montevideo life, have perhaps been left too long ; they are 
 attractions of the highest rank which no one should overlook, 
 however short his stay. The largest and finest park is called 
 the Prado, which contains also the National Botanical Gar- 
 dens. One may here roam for hours among immense mag- 
 nificent trees, half a century old, sheltering smaller palms and 
 bamboos, flowering shrubs, and beautiful gardens; here too 
 are lakes and grottoes, vegetation of cool and of warmer 
 climes, a region more delightful on account of the hills and 
 hollows with which it is diversified, in pleasing contrast to 
 the flatness of the Argentine shore. The park, which is sur- 
 rounded by villas and chalets, is approached by three fine 
 avenues and may be reached by three lines of cars, 2, 44, 
 and 47 (8 cts. fare) in 25 minutes. 
 
 A little nearer the city and on the other side, close to the 
 ocean, is Par que Vrhano, served in a ride of 20 minutes by 
 six lines of cars, Nos. 5, 6, 7, 33, 36, and 46, with 4 cts. fare. 
 This is a most popular recreation ground, a large park with 
 trees, flowers, lakes, pretty bridges, etc., a great circular ave- 
 nue, and a theater of novelties. Near the entrance on the side 
 towards the sea I saw a pavilion where popcorn was made and 
 sold by a fine young man and his happ}' looking wife, both 
 from the United States. Popcorn is a new and popular ar- 
 ticle of food for the natives; business was good, the young 
 couple enjoyed the place and the people, though expecting 
 to come home some day; but already, as I hear, they have 
 vanished. The seashore in front is called Playa Ramirez, a 
 fine bathing resort. On the sands stand a multitude of little 
 bath-houses on wheels, which a horse draws out into the water, 
 thus permitting less display of gay bathing costumes or of 
 bathers than on our own beaches, a custom with obvious ad- 
 vantages. The men generally go in on one side of the iron 
 pier, the women and children on the other. 
 
 Close to the Park and the Beach is an imposing hotel and 
 casino, four stories high, the Vrhano, with 300 rooms, a great 
 dining hall, and other salons, called the finest and most lux- 
 urious hotel in South America. It was erected at a cost of 
 $600,000, and since it was opened in 1909 it has been a point 
 of attraction to many of the best Ai'gentine society, as well as 
 to the people of Uruguay.
 
 ?(,IL1.-) lllKAild. 
 
 GOVJiKNMfcM l'AU\CE
 
 MONTEVIDEO 281 
 
 Pocitos, a little farther out, is another much frequented 
 bathing resort. The Thursday and Sunday concerts at both 
 beaches attract thousands. In the vicinity are many fine 
 residences. A splendid esplanade along the shore leads to 
 Trouville, another beach beyond. Pocitos, tlie most fasliion- 
 able of the resorts, also has a hotel of the first rank. 
 
 On the port side of the city many improvements have been 
 made and more are planned. Along the south side of the 
 promontory a fine esi)lanade is to be constructed to extend 
 also along the east sliore to Kamirez and Pocitos in the man- 
 ner of the Avenida Beira j\Iar at Rio de Janeiro. Pocitos, 
 a 30 minutes' run, is served by the cars 31 and 37, fare 8 cts. 
 
 The Zoological (larch n at Villa Dolores (cars 3S and 30, 
 time 20 minutes, fare 8 cts.), is a private property, but is open 
 to the public for a small fee Sundays, Thursdays, and Feast 
 days. In addition to a considerable collection of ani- 
 mals, unusually extensive in the line of birds and domestic 
 fowls, there are various artistic features, artificial grottoes, 
 lakes, watei'falls, imitation of classical ruins, etc. A rather 
 original feature is a little cemetery of various animals, their 
 graves marked by life-size sculptures: lions, dogs, a rabbit, 
 a cock, even a huge anaconda, a curious collection. The 
 entrance fees are devoted to charitable institutions of the city. 
 
 The Hippodrome and horse races, if not quite equaling the 
 grand display at Buenos Aires, are in excellent style; the 
 accommodations are elegant and luxurious, and the races 
 under the direction of the local Jockey Club are fashionable 
 events where many notable horses have appeared. The 
 receipts are in the neighborhood of ii^2,000,000 annually, the 
 prizes in 1910 were over $400,()()0. Tiie Hippodrome, estab- 
 lished in 1888 at the sulmrb ]\larorias, may be reached by 
 Cars 13, 17, and 51 after a 45 minutes' ride, for the sum of 
 10 cts. Races occur on days of fiesta from the first Sunday 
 in JMarcli to the middle of January. During the short vaca- 
 tion the horses rest and take si'a-baths at Buceo bt>ach near 
 by. At the gala events, when 15,000 people may lie present, 
 elegant toilets are much in evidence, with many automobiles 
 and carriages. The betting is said not to be carried to such 
 an excess as in some other places, practiced not as a means 
 of livelihood but as a pastime, as people bet only what they
 
 282 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 can afford. A. members' stand was recently erected at a 
 cost of $00,000. In the same direction is the Parque Central, 
 a ground for athletic sports, served by Cars 51 and 52 in 25 
 minutes at a cost of 6 cts. The people are fond of sports, 
 and football is a high favorite ; 10,000 persons may attend 
 matches. 
 
 The Immigrants' Hotel on Bella Vista Beach, opened July 
 18, 1908, is an excellent institution, capable of receiving 
 1000 guests, and containing all suitable offices. 
 
 In mentioning these points of interest several suburbs have 
 been spoken of, but others should if possible be visited, as 
 these form one of the great attractions of the city. One of 
 the most enjoyable and important of these excursions is to 
 the Cerro, a hill overlooking the bay, to be reached in 55 
 minutes by No. 16 car, fare 14 cts., or by ferry from the 
 landing every half hour, fare 10 cts. It is well to go one 
 way and return another. "While the hill is not very high 
 and is easily climbed it is notable for several reasons. It 
 was the occasion of the name, Montevideo, / see a moun- 
 tain; it is the first true hill on the banks of the Plata, and, 
 far more wonderful, it is the last (so Mr. Koebel says), for 
 over 1000 miles; since the river Parana, as well as the Plata, 
 flows through a very flat country and the next hill is close 
 to Asuncion in Paraguay. Other hills there are in Uruguay 
 and higher, but these are along the Atlantic coast and not on 
 the rivers. From the Cerro there is a varied panorama, 
 worth seeing if one has time to devote to the excursion — on 
 one side the bay, the city on the promontory, lapping over on 
 the mainland, the coast line, and the ocean slightly blue; 
 on the other the level shore and the yellowish brown river. 
 
 Of the nearer surburbs the Paso IMolino on the way to the 
 Prado is one of the best residential districts. The suburb 
 of Colon, car 41 (60 minutes, 14 cts.), is one of the prettiest; 
 this car passes through Sayago suburb where the Agri- 
 cultural Institute is situated. The ride is a charming one, 
 with pretty quintas all along (houses set in their own gar- 
 dens), and at Colon restaurants, pleasure gardens, and miles 
 of avenues of stately eucalyptus trees. 
 
 Other Towns. If one has time for more distant excursions 
 there are a number of places which deserve a visit, some of
 
 URUGUAY 283 
 
 these more accessible from Buenos Aires. The old town of 
 Colonia, to which boats often run from the Argentine capital, 
 is across the river, and three miles from that old-fashioned, 
 quiet city is a new resort called Real de San Carlos, where a 
 groat hotel is planned and where some attractions are already 
 installed, a bull ring, though the fights are now discontiinied, 
 another ring for pelota, a fine, sandy bathing beach, a modest 
 hotel. 
 
 The great Lichig Establishment, its products of world-wide 
 fame, situated at Fray Bentos on the Uruguay Kiver, is also 
 easily visited from Buenos Aires. This Company, now with a 
 capital of $5,000,000, with estancias in Paraguay and in sev- 
 eral provinces of Argentina, established its first factory at 
 Fray Bentos in 1865. Since that time, in addition to enor- 
 mous development there, another large plant has been created, 
 10 miles farther up the river, but on the other side, in Ar- 
 gentina. Their beef extract, their Oxo capsules, and their 
 Lemco have a deserved reputation the world over, as for these 
 productions the best of meat only is used, instead of the leav- 
 ings of poor or diseased meat said to be employed in some 
 other establishments. All of the products are obliged to 
 undergo a strict test in order to have the use of the Liebig 
 name. For their employees, 1500 in number, pleasant homes 
 are provided, medical attendance, schools for the children, 
 recreation grounds, etc. 
 
 From IMontevideo excursions may easily be made to two 
 unique resorts in ]\Ialdonado, the next State east of Cauelones 
 in which the capital is situated. Both of them face the broad 
 Atlantic, though still on the south shore. Especially should 
 every lover of nature, of plants and trees, improve this op- 
 portunity. Not money-making plcasure-gi'ounds are these, 
 but each the la])or of love of a Uruguayan gentleman of public 
 spirit and of great wealth. 
 
 Punta Ballena has been converted into an Eden by Antonio 
 D. Lussicli, roiiiuli-r of tlie first life-saving station in America. 
 A natural diversity has been intensified by art. The Point by 
 a ridge is divided into two parts — on the east are green mead- 
 ows, lakes, woods, and animals; on the west, nature is stern 
 and snvage with rocks ;ind barren sands, grottoes, ete. On 
 a height which connnands a view of the Punta del Este, the
 
 284 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 sea, the Lobos Island and Lighthouse, Senor Lussieh has eon- 
 struetcd a residence with a beautiful garden in which roses are 
 a, six'cialty, and a wonderful })ark including among the re- 
 puted one million trees the finest collection of eucalyptus in 
 South America, more than 100 varieties. 
 
 Piriapolis. Probably even more worthy of a visit is Piria- 
 polis, to wliich a railroad has recently been opened. Francisco 
 Piria, i)ossessor of an immense estate in this region, in addition 
 to beautifying a portion, has initiated a reform now being fol- 
 lowed by others. He sells on easy terms to the poor consid- 
 erable tracts for cultivation. The city which he has laid out 
 on the seashore is called an enchanted region unlike any other. 
 Surrounded by mountains in the form of a horse-shoe open 
 to the sea, it is arranged with avenues 100 feet wide and with 
 twenty plazas, A still wider avenue five miles long, in part 
 macadamized, bordered by large trees, crosses the entire prop- 
 erty. On the city streets are 40,000 tall eucalyptus trees 
 twenty years old, arranged in perfect lines. The beach, the 
 finest on La Plata River, beautifully smooth, so that chil- 
 dren can bathe in safety, has an area of 150 acres. Around 
 the city, and in one large grove are several million trees, 15 to 
 20 years old, some, 120 feet high. The hotel, called the finest 
 in the country, has 140 elegantly furnished suites with great 
 salons and dining hall, a portico 250 feet long. In front a 
 beautiful park overlooks the ocean ; at the sides is the Park 
 of Roses, where Senor Piria has planted 30,000 rose trees. 
 Besides these there are groves of willows, walks, and a trellis 
 more than a quarter of a mile long, affording grateful shade. 
 Close by is a Casino four stories high wath a 300-foot front. 
 An artesian well supplies daily 10,000 gallons of good water. 
 All modern conveniences are provided, such as the latest 
 electric and laundry devices. 
 
 Two hills separate this beach from the next. On Ccrro 
 Ingles is a Fountain of the Virgin, of mineral w'ater which 
 has constructed a stalactite grotto. On the Cerro de los 
 Toros is another mineral spring. High up among grottoes 
 and cascades, in a semi-circular wall of rocks, is a bronze bull 
 of double size, Aveighing nearly three tons, with a stream of 
 clear water from the rocks above issuing from its mouth. 
 On the same hill is a Greek temple to Aphrodite 30 feet high,
 
 URUGUAY 285 
 
 the cupola supported by six marble columns; in the center 
 a l)ronze Yeiius with a jug under her arm from which will 
 I)()ur daily 5000 gallons of mineral water. All of the spring 
 waters have been analyzed and pronounced good for dyspep- 
 sia. At the summit of this Ccrro de los Toros is a kind of 
 crater, at the bottom of which, to be seen only from the top 
 of the hill, are wocds and meadows. On the Pan de Aziicar, 
 one of the surrounding mountains, sheltered by a natural 
 wall of granite, is a row of colossal palms. A chalet has here 
 l)een erected for the benefit of youths making an excursion. 
 On the Cerro Ingles as well, there is a chalet for tourists. The 
 mountains around, of nuich interest, are also a source of 
 great wealth, being composed of superb porphyry, black with 
 veins red or white, red with black veins, green with white, 
 about 50 beautiful varieties. The Pan de Azucar, nearly 20r)0 
 feet tall, alone is of rich granite, with blocks 200 and 250 
 feet high, from which monoliths may be taken. Sefior Piria 
 has in this section a ranch with blooded cattle, a tract of 
 vineyards, a grove of 10.000 olive trees, and a chateau and 
 other l)uildings erected at a cost of $100,000. The place is 
 three hours from IMontevideo by sea and now that it is ac- 
 cessible in two hours by rail, it will soon become widely known 
 as a resort of extraordinarv cliarms.
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 BRAZIL— ALONG THE COAST TO SANTOS 
 
 The extent of the great country, the exact title of which 
 is the United States of Brazil, most of us hardly realize. 
 With fifteen times the area of France, it covers more ground 
 than the United States without Alaska and our more recent 
 acquisitions, is larger than the whole of Europe, and is fifth 
 in size (Percy Martin says third) among the nations of the 
 world. While now it contains barely 22 millions of inhabi- 
 tants, about five to the square mile, the great scientist and 
 explorer Humboldt once prophesied that it would in the 
 future be the most thickly settled portion of the globe, since 
 from the richly productive nature of the soil life may there 
 be supported with small exertion. 
 
 Of a somewhat triangular shape, Brazil extends a distance 
 of 2600 miles from north to south and 2700 from east to west. 
 Although in large part under or near the equator and without 
 lofty mountains, it yet has considerable elevation, averaging 
 2000 to 3000 feet over more than half of its territory; not 
 enough to occasion extreme cold anywhere, but sufficient to 
 induce a more healthful and comfortable climate in such sec- 
 tions. Bordering on every South American country except 
 Chile and Ecuador, it is favorably situated for having inti- 
 mate commercial relations with all, when its settlements have 
 spread out in every direction, instead of being chiefly in 
 districts near the coast, with a few in the Amazon valley. 
 
 HiSTORICAIi 
 
 Accidentally discovered by Europeans within ten years after the 
 first landing of Columbus on Western soil, some years elapsed be- 
 fore it received a permanent settlement. Pedro Alvares Cabral, a 
 Portujniese nobleman, by good fortune holds the honor of having in 
 1500 first beheld the most eastern shores of the Amei'ican continent. 
 
 286
 
 BRAZIL 287 
 
 Sailinsj from Lisbon for the East Indies with a fleet of vessels, 
 Cabral was instructed by Vasco da Gama who had made the first 
 all-sea voyaiiC to that region to bear away to the southwest, in order 
 to avoid the frequent calnis off the coast of Guinea, until he should 
 reach 34° south latitude when he should turn east. While follow- 
 ing these directions, on the 21st of April Cabral sighted a moun- 
 tain which, as it was Easter week, he called Paschoal. The next 
 day he anchored off shore of the present State of Bahia, to com- 
 memorate which event. May 3 is a Brazilian national holiday and 
 the date of the assembling of Congress. Ten days Cabral remained 
 at anchor taking formal possession of the land, and having some 
 communication with the Lidians who appeared friendly. On the 
 news reaching Portugal in the fall, another expedition was at once 
 sent out and the coast was explored almost to La Plata, nearly 
 2000 miles, by Amerigo Vespucci, who was, however, disappointed 
 by finding no wealth of gold or silver and no civilized inhabitants. 
 The only article of immediate value seemed to be brazilwood 
 which, furnishing a bright red dj'e, was in demand in Europe. 
 Thus the land was called the Country of Brazilwood, soon shortened 
 to Brazil. 
 
 The name America later bestowed upon the land which Vespucci 
 explored, and which he first declared to be not a part of the Orient 
 but a separate continent, was afterwai'ds extended to include the 
 northern half. Thus it seems peculiarly unfortunate that we 
 should arrogate to ourselves the title of being the Americans, our 
 only apology for so doing being the fact that we have no other 
 name by which we can be called, a fact, however, which does not 
 entitle us to forget that there are others. 
 
 The first real settlement by the Portuguese was made in Jan- 
 uary, 1532, at Sao Vicente near the port of Santos, soon after which 
 a second post Avas established on the high land above, in the vicinity 
 of Sao Paulo. Subsequently grants were made by King John III 
 of Captaincies, fifteen in number, each, one hundred fifty miles along 
 the coast; these beginning at the mouth of the Amazon and ex- 
 tending south to tlie island of Santa Catarina. Six permanent 
 colonies were founded, but the only ones early amounting to nnich 
 were Pcrnambuco and Sao Paulo, later Bahia and Kio de Janciio. 
 
 The Jesuits, who were prominent in the early settlements, gave 
 particular attention to Christianizing the Lidians. bringing them into 
 settlements under their jurisdiction and instructing them both in 
 agriculture and in various industrial arts. Their labors were 
 ehiclly in the States of Sao Paulo and Minas. As their system in- 
 torrcred with the exploitation of the Lidians by the Paulistas these 
 attacked the Jesuit settlements, within twenty-five years, it is said,
 
 288 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 killing 300,000 of the natives, and finally destroying all the Jesuit 
 settlements on the ni)i)er Parana. 
 
 In 1558 a nobleman, Mem de Sa, a lawyer, scholar, and able ad- 
 ministrator, as Governor, succeeded in eonsolidatintj the govern- 
 ment of the various colonies and in establishing the Portuguese 
 power on a firm basis, in spite of dilliculties with Indians and with 
 French settlers. In 1581 Philip II of Spain by obtaining the crown 
 of Portugal became also the ruler of Brazil. During the sixty years 
 of Spanish domination the expansion of Brazil to the west in terri- 
 tory which had been assigned to Spain was pennitted, as a matter 
 of no iini)ortance, later, however to involve unforeseen conse- 
 quences. 
 
 In the seventeenth centuiy there were years of struggle against the 
 Dutch who first, in 1624, captured Bahia, to lose it in 1G25; in 1030 
 they captured Pemambuco which they retained twenty-four years, 
 at one time having under their control two-thirds of the population 
 and developed resources of Brazil, Bahia and the southern provinces 
 alone remaining in the hands of the Portuguese. Portugal having 
 meanwhile recovered its independence from Spain, the Brazilians 
 made continued efforts under the leadership of John Fernandez to 
 expel the Dutch. At last they succeeded and January 26, 1655, the 
 latter signed a capitulation for the surrender of Pernambueo and 
 all other holdings in the eountiy. This stnaggle fostered the de- 
 velopment of a national spirit among the colonies, while the fact 
 that the coast was held by the Dutch impelled the opening of land 
 routes of communication in the interior. Cattle ranges became nu- 
 merous, rumors of gold were heard, and in 1690 the IMorro Velho, 
 one of the great gold mines of the world, was discovered. 
 
 The eighteenth century saw many conflicts in the south, in Rio 
 Grande and Uruguaj^, but in 1777 peace Avas declared with bound- 
 aries as at present. During this period occurred a literary de- 
 velopment, six of the leading Portuguese poets appearing, not in 
 Rio, but in Minas, twenty days on muleback from the coast. In 
 1807, John, Prince Regent of Portugal, came over, fleeing, with his 
 court and with much property, from Napoleon. Received wnth en- 
 thusiasm, he opened to commerce the five great ports, encouraged 
 literature, art, science, and education, and the immigration of for- 
 eigiiei's, thus inaugurating a movement which gradually transformed 
 the countiy. After the fall of Xapoleon, Prince John, returning in 
 1821 to Portugal, left his son Pedro in charge, Avith the hint that if 
 there was any likelihood of Brazil asserting her independence, as 
 the Spanish provinces had done, he should put the crown on his 
 own head. This on October 12, 1822, he did, being crowned Con- 
 stitutional Emperor of Brazil. The separation from the Mother
 
 BRAZIL 289 
 
 Country occurred without bloodshed in Rio, while from the re- 
 maining ports the Portuguese garrisons were expelled with little 
 dilliculty. Troubles came aiterwaid. Pedro, i-egardless of the 
 constitution, attempted to be a despot. After quelling a revolt in 
 the north, becoming involved in war with Argentina which ended 
 with the independence of Uruguay, and having alienated his earlier 
 supporters, he was compelled in 1831 to abdicate in favor of his 
 infant son. Stormy times continued so that after a nine years' 
 regency Pedro ii, when only hfteen, was proclaimed of age and took 
 the throne. Nine years more were required for the pacification 
 of the whole country, when prosperity of all kinds followed. In 
 spite of the expensive war with Paraguay and other drawbacks, 
 commerce increased, general industiy developed, and political re- 
 forms were instituted. In 1888 during the absence of Dom Pedro in 
 Europe a bill for the abolition of slavery, having passed both 
 Houses of Congress, was signed by Princess Isabella as Kegent. In 
 18SU the old Emjieror, who had returned, was summarily expelled, 
 with hardly Iwenly-four hours' notice to gather together his be- 
 longings; the ditiiision of re])ublican ideas among the soldiery mak- 
 ing the revolution possible without bloodshed. A Provisional Gov- 
 ernment instituted many reforms, organized the Provinces into 
 States, established universal suffrage, the separation of Church and 
 State, etc. A Congress was assembled in February, 1891, a consti- 
 tution was adopted, and Deodoro Avas elected President. Extrava- 
 gance and insurrections followed, then financial distress which 
 reached its height in 1900. Since that jieriod the country has ad- 
 vanced rapidly in wealth, population, and in all other lines of de- 
 velopment. 
 
 The individual States are less closely bound together than with us, 
 and have greater power, being able to fix export and import taxes 
 against each other. 
 
 Before embarking at ^Montevideo for Brazil it is wise to 
 proeure a little Brazilian money, which is more troublesome 
 than any other. A milreis is about 3li cents; but instead of 
 having 100 cents in what might ])e called their dollar they 
 have 1000 reis. Five hundred reis sounds like a good deal ; 
 to pay 200 or 300 for car fare appears quite exorbitant; but 
 remembering that 100 reis is only 3', 3 cents it seems more 
 reasonable. 
 
 The large majority of tourists will embark at ^loulevideo 
 for Santos in one of the fine ships of the Lamport & Holt 
 Line, the Hamburg Amt'i-ican, or the ,1 boats of the Koyal
 
 290 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Mail, all of which are comfortable, even luxurious. Ten days 
 must be allowed, and from twenty to thirty will be enjoyed 
 in the delightful cities of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. 
 Brazil is an immense country, larger, we must remember, than 
 the United States proper, and to see Sao Paulo and Rio only, 
 affords little more knowledge of the Republic than a glimpse 
 of New York and Boston gives of ours; yet in a four months' 
 tour of the continent, that is all that can be arranged. The 
 traveler with more time at his command may find pleasure 
 and profit in visiting other portions of the great Republic. 
 This may be done, so far as Southern Brazil is concerned, in 
 two different ways. The tourist may take at IMontevideo one 
 of the boats of the Brazilian Lloyd Line, which call at the 
 principal ports all along the coast, and thus journeying in 
 complete comfort, may visit many prosperous cities, where he 
 will be astonished by the high degree apparent, of culture, 
 of business energy, and of rapid growth and progress. Or, 
 if preferring as long as possible to avoid the sea, he may 
 proceed from IMontevideo to Rio all the way by land, and 
 thus gain some idea of the great interior country, here so 
 different from the vast Argentine plain, with much variety 
 in scenery and enormous possibilities for future development. 
 This railway journey at present requires five or six days 
 to Sao Paulo, more time than by express steamer, and in- 
 volves more fatigue and hardship. At last accounts there 
 were no through sleepers, the road in places was rough and 
 dusty and altogether slow. The distance to Rio is nearly 
 2000 miles. But on a new road through a rapidl}' developing 
 country, quick changes and improvements may be looked for, 
 and by the time any of my readers is ready for the overland 
 journey, it is possible that it may be made in three or four 
 days, perhaps in through sleepers. In one of these, the 
 tourist may now set out from IMontevideo, where details as to 
 the comforts and duration of the journey may best be secured. 
 The entire region is scantily peopled all the way to Sao Paulo 
 and there is no unusual or striking scenery, except in ascend- 
 ing to the plateau beyond Santa ^laria in the state of Rio 
 Grande do Sul, and in the descent to the town of Uniao in 
 the Iguassii Valley. Along the route traveled, Uruguay and 
 Southern Brazil show a pretty country of rolling pasture land
 
 BRAZIL 291 
 
 to Passo Fundo in Rio Grande do Sul; then comes a hilly 
 district covered with primeval forest, chiefly pine, to Ponta 
 Grossa in Pai'ana and beyond, and in the State of Sao Paulo 
 highlands, agricultural and pastoral. A few villages of from 
 500 to 5000 people are scattered along the way, with two towns, 
 Santa Maria and Ponta Grossa, of about 15,000 each. Within 
 a few years it is possible that a cross railroad, already 
 planned, will be built from Sao Francisco on the coast to 
 Uniao, the station above referred to in the Iguassu Valley, 
 and thence onward to the Iguassu Falls and Asuncion. When 
 this road is finished it may be desirable to visit Montevideo 
 from Buenos Aires; returning thither one might go by rail 
 or steamer to Rosario and Asuncion, then across to the Iguassu 
 Falls and on by rail to Uniao and thence proceed to Sao Paulo. 
 A coast railway is now planned between Rio and Porto Alegre 
 (963 miles) by which it is expected that the journey will be 
 made in 25 hours. 
 
 Rio Grande do Sul. By a coasting steamer, one will first 
 visit the State of Rio Grande do Sul, the most southern in 
 Brazil, w'cll away from the tropics, hence with a temperate 
 climate, much like that of Georgia, and largely settled by 
 Germans. For a State with considerable seaboard, the loca- 
 tion of its three chief cities on a fresh water lake or lagoon 
 may at first appear curious, yet of course there is a reason. 
 The coast being flat and generally sandy the best harbor is 
 the lagoon, separated from the sea by a sandy spit of land 
 only a few miles wide. The entrance, a narrow strait near 
 the south end, has a considerable sand-bar on which engineers 
 liave been at work to secure a passage 33 feet deep, affording 
 ingress to large ocean steamers. This will greatly augment 
 the present important commerce. The larger steamers now 
 entering go only to the city liio Grande do Sul at the south- 
 ern extremity of the Lagoa dos Patos, Lagoon of the Ducks, 
 named from one of the tribes earlier inhabiting this region. 
 The town has fine wide streets, many handsome buildings, and 
 in the Praca Tamandare, on which stands the Post Office and 
 Public Lihrary, one unique feature: the only monument in 
 Brazil, it is said, comnu moral inrj the freeing of the slaves. 
 The citizens are justly proud of their Library of 40,000 vol- 
 umes, probably the best south of Sao Paulo, and of the fact
 
 292 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 that they possess tlie oldest ncivspapcr in Brazil except the 
 Jomal do Commercio of Rio. 
 
 Porto Alegre. As the Lagoon is 150 miles long (30 wide), 
 it is a long sail, 12 hours, to Porto Alegre, tiie capital and 
 chief town of the State at the northern end. Three hours 
 from Rio Grande a call is made at the pleasant town of 
 Pelotas, beyond which there is little to see on account of the 
 width of the lagoon. The beef industry in the form of salt 
 beef factories is a chief feature of the prosperity of Pelotas, 
 and rows of beef strips hung up in the sun to dry, with an 
 occasional factory, may be seen for miles along the shore. 
 Porto Alegre, settled in 1742 by colonists from the Azores, 
 after the Prussian Revolution in 1848 received many Ger- 
 mans, so that one-fourth of its 100,000 inhabitants are now 
 of German descent. The town has some handsome public 
 buildings, including a City Hall with marble columns from 
 native quarries, and some that are old and ugly. A large 
 stone building near the quay houses the public market, where 
 fruit, vegetables, dairy products, etc., are sold, at modest 
 prices in comparison with those at Buenos Aires and Rio. The 
 climate is healthful, with some freezing weather in the winter, 
 and snow in the mountainous section inland. Minerals are 
 found in the State, including coal, but the chief wealth is 
 cattle; not the blooded stock of Argentina but good enough 
 for jerked beef. Also agricultural products are important, 
 one settlement, chiefly of Italians, exporting annually a mil- 
 lion dollars ' worth. A beautiful waterfall 400 feet high called 
 Herval may be visited a few hours from Sapyranga on the 
 railway between Porto Alegre and Taquara. 
 
 Going north from Rio Grande the steamers of the Brazilian 
 Lloyd and the Costeira lines call in the next State, Santa 
 Catharina, at its capital Florianopolis, one of the most pic- 
 turesque of Brazilian cities, on an island of the same name. 
 Facing the mainland five miles across the Strait, with a back- 
 ground of hills rising from 1000 to 3000 feet, it is a charming 
 contrast to the more level country previously visited. In the 
 principal plaza a stone monument with a pyramid of cannon 
 balls at the top commemorates those who, as Volunteers, per- 
 ished in the Paraguayan War. Though a town of 30,000 
 people it is a quiet place where they mostly stay at home
 
 BRAZIL— ALONG THE COAST TO SANTOS 293 
 
 evenings and go to bed by ten o'clock. A little farther north, 
 the port of Sao Francisco, called the best south of Santos, 
 from the building of the Iguassu, Paraguay, and other rail- 
 ways is destined to be of great importance. 
 
 ParanagTia. In the State of Parana, one of the most beau- 
 tiful of Brazil, detached in 1858 from the State of Sao i'aulo, 
 a call is made at Paranagua, its chief seaport, from which 
 ycrha mate, growni in the interior, is an especially important 
 export. In this State and the next, the larger aud plea.santer 
 cities are on the high land in the interior. The low semi- 
 tropical strip along the shore is separated from the plateau 
 region within by the Serra do ]\Iar or Coast Range, extending 
 far north very near the shore. Rivers, like the Iguassii aJid 
 Parana, rising almost within sight of the Atlantic, tlow thou- 
 sands of miles to increase the waters of La Plata. The 
 capital city, Curityha, with 50,000 inhabitants, may be vis- 
 ited by rail from Paranagua, a delightful four hours' journey 
 of 70 miles, among the valleys and up the slopes of the hills 
 and mountains of the Serra do ^lar, the climb to an altitude 
 of 3000 feet being made without cogs or cal)Ies, by means of 
 high trestles, bridges, and 17 tunnels. The journey is said 
 to surpass in beauty the better known ride from Santos to Sao 
 Paulo, presenting a variety of natural seenery seldom i'ouud 
 in so short a trip, along with rich semi-tropical vegetation, 
 pine forests, and manifestations of industrial development. 
 The State spends more in proportion upon education than does 
 any other in Brazil. It possesses unlimited resources in cattle, 
 agriculture, mines, and forests. The pine tree of Brazil, tho 
 Araiicai'ia hrasiliensis, especially prominent in this State, 
 din'ers greatly in appearance from pines in the United States. 
 They are a striking feature of the landscape, growing with a 
 single straight trunk, sometimes 125 feet, with a diameter of 
 six feet. Thus they somewhat resemble a palm, though 
 crowned at the top with branches in shape like a bowl, bare 
 to the end, where glolies of dnrk crisi)y green leaves recall a 
 candelabrum. All parts of the tree are useful ; the fruit is 
 edible, the nut is used to manufacture buttons, and the wood, 
 for building and other purposes. 
 
 IV'Vond C'nrityba the road goes on to meet the tln-ough line 
 from jMontevideo at Pouta Grossa. Not far from the June-
 
 294 THE SOUTH AMIilRICAN TOUR 
 
 tion is a curiosity called Villa Velha, old village, reminding of 
 the Garden of the (Jods, but even more remarkable. The 
 reddish rocks of sandstone have had part of their formation 
 cut away by time and water, leaving rocks which resemble 
 houses, walls, or ruins, some, 300 feet high like castles and 
 towers, with low bushes growing among them, the whole 
 having the appearance of an abandoned city. Curityba, like 
 Sao Paulo, though much smaller, is a wide awake, modern 
 city with handsome buildings, hotels, etc., and a boarding and 
 day school conducted by two American ladies. An important 
 industry is the preparation of ycrba mate for market, 20 
 large mills existing for this purpose in various parts of the 
 state. The mate profits sometimes reach 100 per cent. 
 
 In the vicinity of Antonina, a pretty town on the same bay 
 as Paranagua, is a curiosity called samhaqiiis, mounds, 71 in 
 number, the work of a pre-historic race containing skeletons, 
 pieces of pottery and of polished stone of varying aspect, ap- 
 parently indicating a progress in culture through generations. 
 Unfortunately many of these remains have been put to the 
 prosaic use of making lime, but some near Lagoa Santa still 
 await the archgeologist and the ethnologist.
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 SANTOS AND SAO PAULO 
 
 The State of Sao Paulo, called the most progressive, if not 
 the most important in Brazil, has for its cliiL-f seaport tiie 
 city of Santos, to which the majority of tourists will have 
 come by express steamer from Montevideo. Most ships call 
 at Santos, even coming up to the docks, so that all may sec 
 this city. The only question is whether or not to go up to 
 Sao Paulo, distant two hours by rail. This should he no 
 question. Every one must go if only for the ride and a 
 glimpse of this prosperous and busy capital, returning the 
 same afternoon. Fare one way 12^900. Should the steam- 
 er's schedule not permit of this excursion, one should .still go, 
 and either wait over until the next steamer, a ticket on the 
 Lamport and Ilolt serving also on the Royal Mail, or proceed 
 from Sao Paulo by rail to Rio, fare 54$.jU0. Or if preferred, 
 one may continue in the same steamer to Rio, thence return 
 later by rail to St'io Paulo, and embark at Santos on his home- 
 ward journey, an arrangement which affords certain advan- 
 tages. In this way one has the great pleasure of twice enter- 
 ing the magnificent harbor of Rio, which it were a pity to 
 miss altogether. On the other hand, journeying by rail from 
 Sao Paulo one may, perhaps, if on the right train, enjoy a 
 view of the city and harbor while descending from the plateau 
 above down to sea level. But as somewhat similar views may 
 be had from Corcovado, Tijuca, and the road to Petn.polis, 
 this is less important and desirable than the view of Rio from 
 the sea, peculiarly entrancing at early dawn. To stay over 
 from one weekly steamer to the next is not too mueli if one 
 cares to visit a colfee plantation and see a little of tlie coun- 
 try; a day or two is better than nothing. 
 
 The name of Sao Paulo, the greatest coffee-producing region 
 of the world, is less familiar to jieople generally than that of 
 its seaport, Santos, as the name Santos is attached to thQ 
 
 295
 
 296 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 enormous quantity of coH'cc thence dispatched to all quarters 
 of the globe. As almost every one occasionally or regularly 
 drinks cofl'ee, some of which is likely to have been grown 
 in the State of Sao Paulo, there is an especial interest in 
 hvii'uiiig something of the country. Sao J*aulo is an active 
 flourishing State, not at all in accordance with the gen- 
 eral idea of Brazil, chiefly associated with the hot Amazon 
 basin; it is an upland temperate region of 75,000 square 
 miles, a trifle larger than the whole of New England with 
 New Jersey added. 
 
 Brazil, like most other tropical lands, is fortunate in having 
 a fair portion of her surface considerably elevated above the 
 sea, and thus with an agreeable climate of quite temperate 
 character. The Coast Range, which includes the Serra do 
 Mar, extending from Espirito Santo to Santa Catharina is 
 indeed a godsend to the country, endowing it, through regions 
 of great extent, with wonderful scenic beauty, besides mod- 
 ifying the climate; while in Sao Paulo and Minas Geraes, a 
 parallel range with two peaks, Itapeva and Marins, 7000 and 
 8000 feet, confers additional advantage. Between these two 
 ranges, as also west of the second, the land is high, the low- 
 land being confined to a narrow strip along the coast. 
 Unlimited water power, one estimate is 2,000,000 horsepower, 
 now unexploited, is a valuable asset of the State; for the 
 various tributaries of the Parana have a number of large 
 cataracts both useful and beautiful, the Itapura Fall 1500 feet 
 wide and 40 high, the Avanhandava 50 feet high, and others. 
 In spite of this the rivers in considerable stretches are navi- 
 gable. Besides the cultivation of coffee for which the State is 
 pre-eminent, sugar, cotton, rice, and tobacco, fruit and cereals 
 are, or soon will be, important productions. 
 
 Santos. The port of Santos (Hotels, Grande, Washington, 
 Internacional), called one of the best and most important of 
 the world, receives annually more than 1500 steamers besides 
 sailing vessels. The largest ocean liners anchor alongside the 
 quay, w-hich extends from the Sao Paulo Railway Station two 
 miles down along the front of the town. The fine docks were 
 built by a local company, which in 1892 began the construc- 
 tion, on a base from 10 to 20 feet thick, of a huge sea wall of 
 granite rising 5 feet above high water mark. Hydraulic
 
 SANTOS 297 
 
 and other machinery is provided to receive and discharge 
 freight, and commerce has grown rapidly until, in 1011, it 
 amounted to $160,000,000 exports and $65,000,000 imports. 
 
 Santos is an ancient town founded in 1544 or earlier by 
 Braz Cubas. A hospital established by this gentleman, the 
 first charitable institution in Brazil, was called Todos os 
 Santos, from which the name Santos was gradually used to 
 designate the town. After his death at an advanced age, 
 Braz Cubas was buried in the chapel of the hospital. Its 
 early origin might seem to indicate that the place was par- 
 ticularly unhealthy, and it has in fact had a bad reputation 
 as a seat of yellow fever ; but for some years now it has been 
 as healthful as need be. The State and City authorities, 
 awaking to the importance of such matters, accom[)lislied the 
 sanitation of the port by means of a perfect system of drain- 
 age and a good water supply. 
 
 Though the fact is not apparent, Santos, a city of 70,000 
 people, is situated, 3 miles from the ocean, on an island, the 
 northeast shore of Silo Vicente; but so close is the island to 
 the mainland that in the dry season when the river has no 
 water it becomes a peninsula. On the opposite side of the 
 river-like channel by which ships enter the harbor, is a larger 
 island, Santo Amaro. It is all very pretty, as luxuriantly 
 clad hills slope almost to the water's edge. At the southwest 
 end of the island, Sao Vicente, is the old town of that name, 
 an hour by rail from Santos. Toward the south end are two 
 popular summer resorts where some of the Santos people, 
 especially the foreigners, live all the year around, while from 
 the interior man}^ come down for the summer. At the en- 
 trance of the channel called Guarujji, the fortress of Barra 
 Grande on the east guards the liai-bor, while opposite is the 
 suburb of Barra with charming country homes. Half way 
 up the channel the docks give evidence of commercial activity. 
 Opposite the city of Santos on the island Santo Amaro, be- 
 yond the hills is the seashore resort (luanija, called the most 
 picturesque in South America, on a rounded knoll overlooking 
 the ocean, among higher hills clothed with virgin forest. 
 This fashionable resort which is readied by means, first, of a 
 short sail across the channel, then of a half hour's railway 
 ride, not so grand or expensive as ^lar del Plata, has natural
 
 298 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 advantages far greater. Near the shore is the new Grand 
 Hotel Guaruja, managed by the Ritz-Carlton Co., affording 
 every convenience and luxury. It accommodates 400 guests 
 at prices from 12$000 to 30$000 a day. A casino, a bathing 
 pavilion, walks, parks, and play-grounds add much to their 
 enjoyment. 
 
 At Santos every one goes ashore if only for the few hours 
 that all ships tarry. The business streets are close by and the 
 pretty central plaza but a short distance. This old part of 
 the city between the docks and the 15th of November street 
 preserves the narrow old-fashioned alleys, we should call 
 them, of the colonial period, by no means unpleasant on a hot 
 day. Although warm, it is usual to see persons hurrying 
 about, for business is done between ten and four, a shorter day 
 than in most Brazilian cities ; here imperative, as many busi- 
 ness men daily come in the morning from Sao Paulo, return- 
 ing by the afternoon train. A Brazilian writer whose trans- 
 lator's English is frequently amusing says, "People do not 
 run, they fly. The sweat dampens the collars, the converses 
 are resumed to the exchange of monosyllables, as it is neces- 
 sary that everything be finished before the last train starts." 
 Away from the business section are broader streets and fine 
 houses, with a hotel called excellent. Two long wide avenues, 
 Nebias and Anna Costa, crossed by streets which are gradually 
 being built up, extend towards the sea. Street cars run 
 in this and other directions, and if time permits it is a pleas- 
 ant ride to a pretty seashore suburb with rolling surf and 
 attractive dwellings at the end of the route. 
 
 But now we must climb the Cubatao Hill, we might even 
 say mountain, to the capital city, by the Sao Faulo liailway. 
 An elevation of 3000 feet is gained in a very short distance, 
 as the Serra do Mar is indeed close to the shore. The height 
 seems too steep to climb with any ordinary means, and in fact 
 it is. Extraordinary means are employed, inclined planes on 
 a much larger scale than we have seen before, of novel con- 
 struction and carrying regular railway coaches. It is a 
 strange and wonderful ride through tropical forests, along 
 the side of steep inclines of great picturesque beauty. Often 
 when the region is shrouded in mist a rift therein, disclosing 
 a tremendous chasm below, has a rather startling effect.
 
 SANTOS AND SAO PAULO 299 
 
 This railway is ranked by experienced British engineers 
 among the great mechanical achievements of the world, such 
 as the Brooklyn and Forth bridges. Due to the initiative of 
 Visconde de ^Maua, it makes an ascent of 2600 feet in the short 
 distance of seven miles. Beginning only 15 feet above the 
 sea live inclined planes with a grade of eight per cent, each' 
 about a mile and a quarter long, serve for the rapid climb. 
 Four intermediate levels of about 600 feet each sejjarate the 
 planes; a bankhead at the top is a little longer. Above each 
 plane is a stationary engine to run the cables, and to grip 
 these a small special engine is attaclied to each car. The 
 winding engines for the cables are built under the track, 
 partly underground, receiving light from the side. One is 
 surprised to see two double roads, but the first proving in- 
 sufficient for the freight traffic, soon after 1895 a new incline 
 was begun, just above on the same slope, with improved tech- 
 nical arrangements. The tracks are very curious. On the 
 inclines each doul)le track has but three rails for ])oth up and 
 down, these being 1.6 meters distant one from another, tiie 
 middle rail serving for both the ascending and the descending 
 cars, whieh ol)viously do not meet on the inclines, but may on 
 the intermediate levels. On each side, in the center of the 
 space between the middle and the outside rails, the pulleys are 
 fixed which carry the cable. This is an endless steel wire of 
 enormous strength, run by a 1000 horsepower engine, and 
 capable of carrying 6 freight or 3 passenger cars at a time. 
 The entire capacity of the cal)les is 17,500 tons daily, or under 
 pressure 22,000 tons. These remarkable engineering works 
 as greatly deserve the attention of tlie tourist as the scenery. 
 In this short section there are 16 viaducts, 15 tunnels, and 
 two miles of retaining Avail, with a volume of masonry exceed- 
 ing 80,000 cubic meters. For one cutting over 150 feet deep, 
 300,000 cubic meters of earth was removed. The Grota 
 Funda viaduct is 3.'U feet long and nearly 150 feet high in 
 the center. Two viaducts have masonry arches, the rest slccl. 
 A difficult problem was the drainage, and many surface drains 
 of the extensive system may be observ(>d in passing. The 
 road, though but 100 miles long, exiending from Sanlos to 
 Jnndiahy and j)assing Sao Paulo half way is one of llir richest 
 in tlie world. In spite of the enormous expense involved in
 
 300 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 its unusual construction, from the fact that it carries the 
 most freight and charges the highest prices, it yields the 
 largest dividends of any road in lirazil, sometimes fifty per 
 cent. Its heaviest earnings come from the transport of 
 coffee, as in the section served hy this line and its connec- 
 tions there are probably 500 million coffee trees. From these 
 the road carries 7 of the 10 million bags annually exported, 
 besides ordinary freight transportation. The passenger 
 traffic hardly pays, or greatly increases in volume, as the 
 two hours' ride from Sao Paulo to Santos is more than most 
 men care to take daily. 
 
 Sao Paulo 
 
 Hotels. The Rotisserrie Sportsman, the Grand, the Majestic, the 
 West. 
 
 After climbing the mountain side, an hour more over a 
 rolling country brings one to the station called Luz, in the 
 city of Sao Paulo, said to be the largest and most costly rail- 
 way station in South America, and one of the finest in the 
 world. The tracks are arranged below the street level, hence 
 there are no grade crossings. This city, the second in Brazil, 
 and with its about 400,000 inhabitants taking third position 
 among the cities of South America, will be a surprise to 
 most travelers. Located on the Tropic of Capricorn, its ele- 
 vation gives it a healthful climate which in combination with 
 other advantages has produced men awake to the spirit of 
 progress and eager to develop the astonishing resources of this 
 richly endowed State. The city is not only the capital and the 
 seat of State Government, but a notable center of education 
 and industry, and the home of many men of great wealth. 
 It is an ancient city, going back to the middle of the sixteenth 
 century, 155-4, its name Sao Paulo, which had been pre- 
 viously applied to a Jesuit college here, being transferred 
 to the new settlement by the Governor General of Brazil, 
 Mem de Sa. Though of gTcater age than any city in our 
 own country, for three centuries it made small progress. 
 In 1872 it was a town of 26,557 people. But within the last 
 forty years it has shown amazing growth, which few of our 
 cities can parallel, an increase of nearly fifteen fold. Al- 
 though on the edge of the tropics, from its elevation of 3000
 
 .:»«' 
 
 LUZ STATION. SAO PArLO 
 
 ^1 
 MlNKirAL THEATRE
 
 SAO PAULO 301 
 
 feet, it has a climate like that of Southern Europe. From 
 the neighboring mountains it receives an excellent wafer 
 supply, while its site on rolling ground afTords excellent 
 drainage facilities and in places a splendid outlook. 
 
 The hotel accommodations are unfortunately iiLKliMjiiale 
 for the rapid development and business of the city. Tlu\y 
 are fairly comfortable, though apt to be over-crowded. It is 
 well if possible to engage a room in advance. The Sports- 
 man's Hotel on the rua Sao Bento is considered the best ; 
 the Grand, the West, and the Majestic are not far distant. 
 The prices are all about the same, from sf^^.SO to $;■).()() a day, 
 American j)lan. The rooms at the Sportsman are comfortable, 
 the table is quite good. The main streets of the business cen- 
 ter, naturally the old part of the town, are ratluM- narrow and 
 not all checkerboard fasliion as in most of the cities visited. 
 This, no doubt, is due to the fact that the surface is irregular, 
 with hills and valleys such that in one place a viaduct 800 
 feet long and 50 wide, called the Viaducto do Cha, forms 
 a curious street leading from the rua Direita over an old part 
 of the town, once a tea garden, to a hill in the newer section, 
 where the handsome Municipal Theater is situated. This 
 imposing edifice, with streets on all sides, recently erected at 
 a cost of a million dollars, compares with the best in Europe 
 and surpasses any in the United States. The seating capacity 
 is a triHe less than that of the Paris Oi)era House. The 
 seats for the orchestra are, according to the "Wagner system, 
 placed below the general floor level. 
 
 The commercial center of the city, not far fidin the hotels 
 mentioned, is a ti'iaiigular plaza called Tirad(Mites. The rua 
 Sao Bento, the Quinze de Novembro, and the Direita ai-e the 
 principal shopping and business streets. The Lar(jo do 
 Valacio is a scpiare near by, on which is the fine Pnlarr of 
 Congress; the handsome Agricultural liuilding of the Ger- 
 man style; the Treasury, covering 700 square nu-ters, the 
 work of a Brazilian architect. Ramos de Azevedo; and the 
 Judiciav]! liuilding of the Roman Doric order. Other note- 
 worthy buildings are the I'ost OjTicr, the Exchange, the 
 Chamber of Commerce, and the I'lthlic Lihrarg. Some of 
 the finest streets are the Aveiiidas Tiradentes, and the Rangel 
 Pestana i)assing the Largo da Concordia with the always
 
 302 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 interesting Market Place, the ruas da Liberdade, Santo 
 Amaro, da ConsolaQao. The hist three lead to the splendid 
 Avenue Paulista, with shaded parkway along the center, the 
 finest boulevard of the capital, on which are many of the 
 handsomest residences. Of course the city has electric lights 
 and cars, and many miles of fine asphalt pavements, though 
 in the outskirts, on account of the city's rapid growth, there 
 may be a few streets yet unpaved, which should be avoided. 
 Automobiles and fine carriages are numerous, and delightful 
 drives may be taken to see the fine public buildings and the 
 multitude of charming and splendid private residences. 
 From a residential point of view few more attractive places 
 will be found anywhere. The many churches one writer 
 calls magnificent, another says only the modern ones are of 
 artistic merit. The Cathedral, the churches of Sao Pedro, 
 8. Gongalo, and Remedios are among the most important. 
 
 Many of the fine buildings of the city are devoted to educa- 
 tional purposes. The city takes especial pride in its Poly- 
 technic School, said to be the best in Brazil, in view of its 
 fine laboratories, the practical character of the studies, and 
 its imposing edifice opened in 1894. Instruction is given in 
 architecture and in civil, industrial, agricultural, mechanical, 
 and electric engineering. Also it has a School of Chemistry, 
 with courses in dentistry and obstetrics. The Government 
 maintains a Laiv School having a five years' course. Its 
 library of 50,000 volumes is free to the public. About the 
 same size is the general PuhJic Library. The fine large 
 Normal School, overlooking the Praea da Republica, occupies 
 a whole square near the center of the city. With a library 
 of 12,000 volumes, with laboratories, museums, rooms for 
 manual labor, gymnastics, and military exercises, it is said to 
 be equal in equipment and installation to any in America. 
 A kindergarten, equal to the best in any part of the world, 
 occupies an annex. A Commercial School for training book- 
 keepers and tradesmen, is included in the educational system. 
 A spacious building east of the Jardim Publico is occupied 
 by the Lyceum of Arts and Trades, where various trades are 
 taught, such as tailoring, carpentery, printing, and many 
 others. This institution, with towards 1000 pupils, is sup-
 
 « Hill R, 
 
 VPliCAX'iA Mr>i:rM 
 
 HOTKL OF IMMUJUANTS, SAO I'AILO
 
 SAO PAULO 803 
 
 ported by a private association. Especially notewortli}- hy 
 Americans is the famous Mackenzie College, opened in 1892 
 on the corner of rua de Sao Joao and Ypirau^a. Schools 
 of lower grades were established in 1870 by Presby- 
 terians, gradually becoming a complete graded system from 
 kindergarten to high school. On this model the government 
 schools were largely planned and on the floor of the Brazilian 
 Congress the school system was said to have been the greatest 
 factor in their educational development of the last twenty 
 years. The college was the first of American fashion in 
 Brazil. Coeducation is followed, though the girls live else- 
 where. The Chamberlain Dormitory was erected in 1!)01 for 
 the boys. The President of the College is Dr. W. A. Wad- 
 dell, and the institntion is afliliated with \hp Cniversity of the 
 State of New York. 
 
 One of the most important jioints of intei-est in Sao Paulo, 
 though on the outskirts of the city, at the same time a moiui- 
 meut and an institution of learning, is the Ypiranga, a splen- 
 did edifice erected in 1885 on the spot where, in 1822, the 
 Independence of Brazil was proclaimed. As it is regarded 
 as one of the finest structures in Brazil, the name of the artist, 
 Cavaliere Tomaso G. Bezzi, is given. The building, which 
 fronts on a broad open space, houses a museum with treas- 
 ures of historical and scientific interest, many curious and 
 valuable relics, and fine paintings by Brazilian artists. The 
 beautiful Park, the Javdim Puhlico or Jardim da Luz, will 
 naturally be visited by every one. Directly oppo.site the Luz 
 Station, created by Royal Charter in 1700, it was first opened 
 in 1825. Adorned with a profusion of flowers, trees, a i)i-etty 
 lake, and other decorations, it is a delightful resort for resi- 
 dent and stranger. 
 
 Well worthy of a visit is the Hotel of Immigrant-'^, a large 
 establishment fitted up in the most sanitary and approi)riate 
 maimer. Thousands of families from Kui-ope are here wel- 
 comed annually, aiul entertained lVe»> of charge for a short 
 period. A Government agent speaking their language meets 
 the strangers on their arrival in Santos, and escorts them 
 to this Hotel. Later they receive free transpoi-tation to 
 wherever in the State tluy desire to go, and their interests are
 
 304 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 looked after by a board. This State is the only one with its 
 own especial department of immigration and active propa- 
 ganda. 
 
 High-grade institutions of a sanitary character are numer- 
 ous in the city, as a Bacteriological, a Sero-therapic, a Pasteur, 
 and various other Institutes. Fine large hospitals for general 
 and special diseases, and for colonists of various nationalities, 
 will be observed in an extended drive. 
 
 Coffee. If time permits, the tourist will surely enjoy a 
 visit to a great coffee plantation. There are none in the 
 immediate vicinity of Sao Paulo, but it is a pleasant journey 
 of 80 miles to the city of Campinas, in the vicinity of which 
 are fazcndas galore. This is one of the oldest and most 
 flourishing towns of the State, with a population of about 
 50,000, modern and prosperous, well paved and lighted, with 
 good schools and a fine large Cathedral. 
 
 The State of Sao Paulo now furnishes one-fourth of the 
 world's coffee supply and this section is one of the largest 
 producing districts in Brazil. Near Campinas, the great 
 fazenda of Baron Geraldo de Rezende will charm the favored 
 visitor. A" magnificent house and gardens, with a splendid 
 collection of rare orchids and 800 varieties of roses, are a not 
 unnatural possession of the owner of half a million coffee 
 trees. A much vaster estate but too remote for many trav- 
 elers to inspect is that of the coffee king of the world, Col. 
 Francisco Schmidt. Coming as a colonist to this state he 
 has achieved a success of which one might well be proud. 
 Of the 700,000,000 trees in the State, Col. Schmidt owns more 
 than one per cent, 71/2 million. On the various planta- 
 tions live 8000 people, contented and prosperous; a school 
 is provided for each village. The soil and climate of Sao 
 Paulo are so well adapted to this industry that the crop is 
 several times as heavy to the acre as in most other coffee 
 growing countries. A family of three or four persons can 
 take care of 10,000 trees and by cultivating other agricultural 
 products at the same time could live on the proceeds. 
 
 In 1817 the first shipment of coffee was made from Brazil, 
 about 6000 bags; in 1906, 13 million bags were exported, 
 10 million being the average. The consumption of coffee in 
 recent years has wonderfully increased. Though generally
 
 COFFEK 1 A/IN" I) A 
 
 CUKKKE TUtE
 
 SAO PAULO 305 
 
 considered less injurious than tea, both should be utterly 
 tabooed to children and young people. To persons of mature 
 years who have not taken it earlier to their injury, its mod- 
 erate use may not be harmful, in some cases may even be 
 beneficial. In humid climates it seems to be used freely with 
 less ill effects than in a dry and bracing air, where habitual 
 stimulant of any sort may be undesirable. 
 
 Althou^di famed for its coffee, 8ao Paulo can produce 
 almost anything else : rice, sugar, cotton, toljacco, tea, cocoa, 
 wheat, corn, sweet potatoes, other vegetables, and fodder 
 plants are among its products. Of these, the marnicllada dc 
 cavallo, is called the most nutritious of fodder plants known. 
 
 From Sao Paulo to Kio the journey may be made by land 
 or sea. If going by rail, one may be advised to take the 
 night train, on the ground that there is nothing to see, that 
 it will be dusty, and that the ride of 12 hours is a long and 
 fatiguing day's journey; the distance is about 310 miles. 
 Also a day is thus gained to spend either at Sfio Paulo or 
 Rio. On the other hand, some persons who have made the 
 trip by dayliglit speak of it with enthusiasm. In the early 
 morning one passes on gentle slopes fields of glossy green 
 coffee trees, groves of oranges, jungles of palms and bananas, 
 with enormous clumps of feathery bamboo, and little towns 
 on the hillsides. At the stations are women selling fruit, and 
 negro boys with trays of tiny cups of black coffee, hot and 
 sweetened. After a while an allui-ing stream is passed, with 
 pleasant towns. I\Iidday is hot and dusty. Farther on are 
 reddish grassy slopes and in climbing the wooded ridge many 
 cattle nuiy be visilile. Higher ascends the train, the valleys 
 are blue below: delightful scenes are on every hand, monn- 
 tains abrupt and fantastic appear. Yet ever there is soft 
 rich verdure; at last comes swift descent towards a panorama 
 of wonderful loveliness. At dusk the train rolls into Kio, 
 W'here, says the InvohinUinj ChapcroUi , "All the dreams ettme 
 true."
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO— BAY AND CITY 
 
 Nearly all tourists, whether from the north or south, will 
 arrive at Rio by water. Leaving Santos in the late after- 
 noon, on a fairly swift steamer, one is liable, unless an early 
 riser, to find the ship at anchor in tlie harbor when he comes 
 on deck in the morning. But if never at other times eager 
 to see the sun rise, or impatient to behold beauties which are 
 permanent in character, let every one who has the smallest 
 appreciation of glorious scenery be awake to enjoy the 
 entrance into the harbor of Rio, which to many will be the 
 culminating joy of the whole delightful journey. With the 
 good fortune to approach at daybreak under propitious skies 
 this magnificent harbor, unrivaled upon the globe, one will 
 rejoice in a vision of splendor surpassing his highest con- 
 ceptions of beauty, forever to be treasured among his choicest 
 memories. One who is loath to lose his early morning nap 
 may fancy that to view the spectacle towards sunset as one 
 sails away homeward will answer just as well ; but such is not 
 the case. It is the morning light on the triple range of hills 
 behind the city, which lies west of the entrance to the bay, 
 that enhances the ever charming scene to a spectacle of 
 unparalleled loveliness. 
 
 From a distance, if heaven send no veil of mist, will be 
 seen on the landward side a row of incomparable titans 
 guarding the city; islands also appear: on the right, a large 
 flat rock, Ilha Rasa, bears a lighthouse with double electric 
 lights, red and blue, and if one is coming from the north, 
 the Itaypu Point is rounded with the pretty little Father and 
 Mother Islands near; approaching from Santos these appear 
 farther away at the right. The lofty hills or mountains at 
 the left attract the most attention. In the distant blue or 
 
 306
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 307 
 
 purple, a gray bald head called Gavea is noticeable, a famous 
 landmark of the harbor, in the profile of which some fancy 
 a resemblance to Washington, "While still outside the harbor 
 we see other summits, the less known and less sharp peak of 
 Andarahy, more distant, Tijuca and tlie Organ Mts., and 
 nearer, at the right of Gavea, the world famed Corcovado 
 Needle, with the city at its foot, or perhaps we should say 
 head, since the point of the needle, the smaller end, is quite 
 obviously above. Whatever else in Rio be neglected, the 
 Corcovado must be known and visited. Other cities have 
 boulevards, if less beautiful, fine buildings and parks; but 
 there is one Corcovado in all the world. Still approaching 
 the narrow harbor entrance we have glimpses of the city 
 close to the portal, and notice that its suburbs even stretch 
 to the ocean and along splendid beaches quite to the foot of 
 Gavea; while on the opposite shore also are many dwellings. 
 Long before, we have admired the celebrated riio de Assucar 
 (loaf of sugar), a striking and enormous conical rock over 
 1300 feet high, standing forth boldly into the channel en- 
 trance, which it guards upon the left, while opposite on the 
 right a rough rock promontory, together with the Assucar, 
 forms a splendid gateway. 
 
 Not merely rock protection has Rio but in these days of 
 jealous strife she must needs possess grim fortresses also; 
 on the right Imbuhy and Santa Cruz, on the left Sao Joiio 
 and Mallet. The multitude of peaks and heights around the 
 city a Brazilian writer speaks of as ''a lively guard ju-odueed 
 by the contortions of a cataclysm." To him everything 
 seems dancing. In truth when the heavenly tints of sunrise 
 are added to the wondrous shapes and hues of ordinary day, 
 the picture has an unearthly beauty which no tongue or pen 
 can describe. 
 
 As we pass the Assucar close at hand, we perceive that 
 while the other rock faces are smootii, bare, and practically 
 perpendicular, this side is rough and shows a bit of green, 
 no doubt the slope where once the a.scent was made, so the 
 story goes, by a hardy Englishman who planted on the sum- 
 mit a British flag. A great hue and cry followed this daring 
 act. A reward w;is olTered to any one who would fetch tlu! 
 banner down. The bribe was vain, till at length the eidprit,
 
 308 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 detected, liimsell' removed the offending colors from the staff 
 wliich long remained ahove. 
 
 Just beyond the Assucar, on the curving shore, Ave see a 
 part of the fashionable residence district. On the edge of 
 the first deep bay, a large building devoted to the Ministry 
 of Agriculture may be distinguished, and close by, the Benj. 
 Constant Institute and the National Hospital for the Insane. 
 On the eastern shore of the bay is Jurujuba, the hospital for 
 epidemic diseases, the pretty beach of Icarahy, then Nictheroy, 
 a ])Ieasant town, capital of the State of Rio ; for the City of 
 Rio de Janeiro is a Federated Capital like Washington. 
 
 This Avonderful bay, opening towards the south, contains 
 an extraordinary number of fascinating little ones of grace- 
 ful outline, with which acquaintance should be made later. 
 Attention is now directed to the wooded slopes and rock cliffs 
 of the serried peaks and mountain ranges, to the smiling city, 
 to the blue waters thickly sprinkled with ships, and dotted 
 with islands. The bay has the name Guana'bara, as well as 
 the more familiar one, Rio de Janeiro; the former an Indian 
 name, arm of the sea, now more frequently applied to the 
 inner and larger portion of the gulf; the latter given by 
 mistake when it was first visited January 1, 1502, by Gonzalo 
 Coelho, who without sufficient exploration, supposing it to be 
 the estuary of a great river, called it Rio de Janeiro, River of 
 January. From this the people later were called Flumin- 
 enses or River Folk. 
 
 In 1531 the French took possession of the bay, to be driven out 
 soon after by Affonso de Soiisa who erected a small fort. The 
 French returning- in 1555 i;nder the command of Yillegaignon ef- 
 fected an entrance to the bay, fortified an island and established a 
 colony largeW of Huguenots who maintained very friendly rela- 
 tions with the Indians; but in 1560, Mem de Sa, the Goveraoi-- 
 Gcneral of Brazil in Bahia, which was earlier settled, estab- 
 lished a fort on the peninsula in front of the Sugar Loaf, Sao 
 Joao, and captured the island stronghold of the French, who, re- 
 treating to the mainland, there remained Avith the support of the 
 Indians. In 1567 Estacio de Sa, nejaheAV of Mem, arrived Avith re- 
 inforcements. After much fighting-, concluded by a fierce battle 
 betAveen the Morros (hills) da Gloria and da Yiuva, when the 
 French and Indians were routed, the site of Rio fell into the pos- 
 session of the Portuguese. On the death of Estacio from a wound
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 309 
 
 received in the last battle, Mem de Sa founded a city which he called 
 Sao Sebastiau. This he left in charge of his nephew C'urreia de Sa 
 on the Morro do Castello. 
 
 Once more, in 1710, the French returned. They entered the town, 
 but in the streets were assaulted so fiercely that they capitulated. 
 After their commander Du Clerc had been mysteriously assassinated, 
 another Fi'ench fleet arrivinfr defeated the Portuguese; but after tak- 
 ing possession of the city later withdrew on receiving a heavy in- 
 demnity. 
 
 In 17G2 or '03 Rio was made the Capital of Brazil and the resi- 
 dence of the Viceroy in the place of Bahia; partly tlimugh the ell'orts 
 of Gomes Freire de Andrade, Count of Bobadella. During his ad- 
 ministration a notable work was achieved, the construction of the 
 great aqueduct of Santa Theresa, by which water was brought from 
 the Carioca Kiver to the center of the cit}'. It crossed a jiart of the 
 town on a double archway, which now bears a tramway. Other im- 
 provements followed, including the draining of the great marshes, in 
 the section near the present Mangue Canal. By the close of the 
 eighteenth century Kio was not only the chief city of Brazil but the 
 largest and most important of South America. Not so favoi'abiy lo- 
 cated as to back country as some others, especially Sao Pauht, its 
 fine harbor gave it commercial importance, greatly increased by the 
 discovery of gold and precious stones in the State of Minas, as by 
 this port most of the adventurers entered, thence following a long 
 Indian trail. 
 
 When the Koyal family arrived from Portugal in ISOS the city, the 
 largest in South America, had forty-six streets, nineteen open sipiarcs, 
 many churches, and the usual public buildings. Its growtii, though 
 continuous, has been hampered until the last decade by the unhealth- 
 fulness of the city, especially the scourge of yellow fever, also by 
 wars, extravagance, and other troubles. With the reorganization of 
 the finances of the eountiy and the establishing of its credit during 
 the Presidency of Dr. Camjios Salles lSOS-inO'2, the regeneration 
 of the city undci* the hitcr Presidents was made ]iossiI)le and the ex- 
 penditure of .tlO(),0()0,()()0 for improvements in the Federal District 
 within the last ten years. On the most charming site iniaginaljlc a 
 new and splendid city has been created which, still in the jiroccss of 
 transformation, soon will even better compare with its miiciucly beau- 
 tiful surroundings. 
 
 To Olio entering the bay, wliidi is nearly 100 niih^s in cir- 
 cnnifci-enco, its great siz(> is not apparent, as the large inner 
 sea is ent o(V by ])oints and islands in such a way that the 
 shape and magnitude of the entire gulf is undisclosed. Its
 
 310 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 configuration as a whole is remarkably like that of the coun- 
 try, roughly triangular with the apex at the south. Among 
 the numerous islands, three close to the shore may be par- 
 ticularly noticed : the Island Cobras with a fort where polit- 
 ical ]irisoners have been confined ; the Fiscal Island upon 
 which is a pretty Gothic structure, headquarters of the Cus- 
 tom House inspectors, hence the name; and Villegaignon, 
 named for its first settler, also bearing a fortress. 
 
 Your ship after sailing past a good part of the city comes 
 alongside a wharf near the north end of Avenida Rio Branco, 
 at about the centre of the business quarter, instead of proceed- 
 ing as formerly to a remote section of the new and splendid 
 docks which extend two miles or more along the water front to 
 the west. All about are ships of every size and as usual of al- 
 most every nationality except our own. Once indeed I saw 
 here the Stars and Stripes, floating above the deck of a 
 schooner from Maine, on its annual visit to bring ice and ap- 
 ples from that cooler clime. Yachts and launches, pretty and 
 plain, gasoline and rowboats flit about, among ships of larger 
 size, at anchor or sailing, two of these probably the great Bra- 
 zilian warships, the Minas, and Sao Paulo, a few years ago the 
 scene of serious unpleasantness due to a marine insurrection. 
 
 The city, stretching for miles along the curving shore, 
 presents a most attractive sight. With corresponding depth 
 its size would be immense, but its width is barred, as effect- 
 ively as is New York's by its two rivers, by the high steep 
 range which leaves small space between its foot and the sea ; 
 indeed, it thrusts forward several sharp projections quite into 
 the water, and chains of modest hills over which the 
 dwellings climb. Thus the city is subdivided into many sec- 
 tions, to which one may proceed only in a roundabout man- 
 ner. Straggling in a charming way over the level patches 
 of ground and part way up the lower slopes of some parts of 
 the lofty rearward rampart, it affords room for a population 
 now practically a million, with plenty of space for more. 
 The second city in the Southern Hemisphere, the fifth in all 
 America, though older than any in the United States, its 
 modern growth and development have been brief and rapid. 
 
 But without more ado we must hasten ashore and have a 
 closer look at the beauties spread before us. Formerly, land-
 
 RIO DK JANEIRO 311 
 
 ing at the docks beyond, one had a f:linipse of the fine ware- 
 houses and tlie splendid broad avenue ])t'hind them with 
 passing electric cars which brought the traveler in twenty 
 minutes to the centre of the city, and to the Alfandega, the 
 Custom House. Xow, however, the landing place is in a more 
 convenient location. Also the passenger is not oljligcd to go 
 to the Alfandega at all. His baggage is removed from tiie ship 
 to a new depository called Bagagem where it is examined by 
 the customs officials as soon as they receive the list of the dis- 
 embarking jiassengers. Thus is avoided the delay often ex- 
 perienced previously. 
 
 It maj' here be mentioned that if friends wish to accompany 
 departing passengers on board the steamer, they must procure 
 a permit at the Custom House, paying 200 reis, six cents, each 
 for the privilege. 
 
 Hotels and Restauraxts 
 
 Hotels. The Avenida, Avenida Rio Branco; Estrangciros, Pra^u 
 J. de Alenear; Internacional, Sylvestre; Central, Beira Mar; Amer- 
 ica, Cattete; France, Praga 15 de Noveaibro; Tijuca (Tijuca) ; 
 Grande, Lapa; Gloho, Primeiro do Mar^o; Fensao Suissa, Largo da 
 Gloria; Beau-sejour, Rua Acquedueto. 
 
 Restaurants. Frankiskaner, Avoiiida Rio Rraneo^ 152; Ileim, A.s- 
 semblea, 119; Londres, Assemblea, 115; I'ari^i, Urumiayaiia, 41; and 
 others. 
 
 United States Consulate, Avenida Rio Branco. 117; Embassy, Beira 
 Mar. British Consulate: Rua General Cauiara 12. 
 
 Churches. Biitish, Rua Evaristo da Viega ; American Methodist, 
 Rua Conde de Baependy. — Y. M. C. A. Building, Rua da Quilanda 
 47. 
 
 Money. A niilreis is 33 cents; 100 reis 3 1/3 cents; a conto is 
 1000 niilreis, written lOOO.f. 
 
 Taxis. (For one or two ]iersons), fii-st iiour S.f; second, 4.+. 
 Coui-se about a mile l..t400, for each (piarter mile after. 200 reis. 
 
 Carriages. Tiie.se, i)ractically superseded l)y tlic automobiles, are 
 now rarely seen. 
 
 Postage. Two hundred reis to the United States or Europe. 
 
 Lanyuau^e s|)oken, Portui,'ucse; also often French. Spanish ^'cn- 
 erally understood. 
 
 CniEF Points of Intere.st 
 
 Avenida Rio Branco, the National Eil)raiy, tiie Fine AHs Mu- 
 seum, the Cathedral, and the CaMdclaria ("iuii-ch, the Pra(,'as 15 of
 
 312 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 November, and liei)ubli(';i, llie I'asseio i'liblico, tlie Heira Mar, the 
 Botanical Garden, the Pao de Assucar, and — Coucovado. 
 
 It is a groat advantage to have selected one's hotel in 
 advance and to have rooms engaged, as the three leading 
 establishments are a long way apart. 
 
 The carregadores who have numbers on their hats may 
 usually be relied upon to bring in time your baggage to its des- 
 tination. Some haggling over the price is usual, as large fees 
 are demanded; not too large perhaps for those who carry 
 them on foot, but more than an ordinary express company 
 would ask for the same distance. The carregadores carry suit 
 cases and other small packages, several of them, on their 
 heads, at least to the cars, where they must pay their fare. 
 Also it must be said that baggage is not allowed in electrics 
 of the first class (I did once smuggle a suit case) nor — make 
 a note of this — is any man allowed without a coat, however 
 hot the weather. Even on the street a gentleman under no 
 circumstances is expected to carry his coat over his arm. 
 One American who did so was politely accosted by a Brazil- 
 ian who said, "Man, coat put on!" in the best English he 
 could muster. Two milreis would be charged for two or 
 three pieces of hand baggage to the Avenida Hotel and four 
 or five for a trunk, which may be pushed in a hand-cart ; 
 double to the Estrangeiros, less to the Suissa. For the Inter- 
 nacional Hotel, the Express Company must be employed, but 
 with that there may be considerable delay. Each hotel has 
 its own especial merit, which to some minds would outweigh 
 all others and render possible a decision without personal 
 observation; many will prefer to spy out the land for them- 
 selves. It has been said that there is no really first-class 
 hotel in Rio ; one which has been constructed on the Avenida 
 with accommodations for 1200 visitors, had not been opened 
 in 1916. As hotels are liable to be full, it is wase to telephone 
 before going to look at rooms. 
 
 First may be mentioned the Hotel Avenida, A. P. 12-15$000 
 up, not because it is the best, but as being in the center 
 of things, right on the main business street, the new Avenida 
 Rio Branco. ^lany lines of electric cars start from beneath 
 its portico and nearly all the others pass within one or two
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO :n:j 
 
 blocks. Naturally it is noisy but persons accustomed to our 
 city streets will hardly mind. This hotel, having a restau- 
 rant with all night service and music every evening, is the 
 largest in Brazil. Most English speaking tourists, however, 
 prefer one of the others. The Hotel dos Estraugciros, the 
 Strangers', is a large establishment facing the Praca Jose de 
 Alencar, a charming ride of 15 minutes from the Hotel 
 Avenida in the direction of Ihe Assucar, mostly along Ihc 
 boulevai'd by the sea called the Beira ^lar. The hotel is two 
 blocks from the water, which is visible from the upper win- 
 dows of the rear building. The table is fair; the price A. P. 
 is 12 to 15$000 or more. 0])port unity for sea bathing is 
 near; hot and cold baths are extra, but showers are free. The 
 Intcrnacwnal Hotel, wliich seems more out of the city, is rec- 
 ommended as cooler in the hot season, from October to April, 
 and is by many preferred at any time, on account of its 
 delightful situation 1000 feet above the sea on the way to 
 Corcovado. Though the ride is but ten minutes longer, the 
 cars do not go so often as to the Estrangeiros, which is served 
 by all the cars of the -lardim Botanieo Co., these passing in 
 an almost contiinious row nndcr the Hotel Avenida. The 
 cars to the Internacional set out once in 20 minutes from 
 the farther side of the Praga de Carioca, a Square just behind 
 the Hotel Avenida; the invisible starting point is around at 
 the back of a certain building. This lino, called tlu' Santa 
 Theresa, goes by the rua do Aqueducto over the arches which 
 once bore the aqueduct, across a portion of the city from 
 a hill, the Morro de Sto. Antonio, to that of Sta. Theresa, the 
 latter being rather a ridge extending fi-om the peak of Corco- 
 vado. On the steep slope of the ridge the Inteinacional is 
 situated, where the nights are ever comfortable, while the 
 journey to and fro is always a deliglit. The liotel has many 
 suites of rooms and bath with hot and cold water. Rates 
 similar to the others. The new Until Central on the Beira 
 Mar near the Estrangeiios has rooms in suites with private 
 baths, a fine location, and is highly spoken of. From this hotel 
 and the Estrangeiros persons so inclined may join tlie throng 
 of people who in the early morning come in l>;ifliing suits from 
 homes near by to enjoy a dif) in the briny deep. 
 
 Should one prefei- a JiKire nHidcst (••st.ililishment with lower
 
 314 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 prices, a finer outlook than some of the others, and more 
 conveniently located than any but the Avenida, he may 
 go to the Pensao Suissa, kept by a motherly Swiss Frau, 
 hardly ten minutes from the Avenida by any of the Jardim 
 Botanico lines, and looking out upon the bay, the Gloria 
 hill, the lovely Beira Mar. The rooms are as neat as possible, 
 so that I was able to reply to a gentleman's query as to red 
 ants that I had seen none, which seemed to him a great sur- 
 prise, as he supposed that every dwelling in Rio contained 
 them. The various other hotels and pensions are not without 
 merit and patrons. 
 
 One may generally get settled in his hotel in time for the 
 noon meal, though the luggage is not likely to arrive before 
 the middle of the afternoon. Yet the time should be im- 
 proved, either by sight-seeing in the middle of the city, or 
 if one is tired by a ride to some of the suburbs. A few 
 tourists, caring little for the commercial and business section 
 of the city, devote their entire time to the wonders of the 
 jewel's marvellous setting. The center of the city should not, 
 however, be ignored. Yet a ride in car or automobile, 
 according to the length of the purse, will be a delightful 
 beginning for the eager tourist. In an auto one may skim 
 over a great part of the city's boulevards in a single after- 
 noon. Our admiration for these magnificent drives and park- 
 ways, unsurpassed in the world in their opportunities for 
 delightsome hours, will be heightened if we are mindful of 
 the astonishing transformation which has here been wrought 
 within the last decade. In 1903 Rio was a dirty, not to say 
 filthy, city of narrow streets, a place to be shunned, as often a 
 hot bed of yellow fever. For its regeneration various plans 
 had previously been proposed, but President Rodrigues Alves 
 was the man who put one of these into execution. 
 
 The slowness of Latin Americans (in fact of every one 
 but themselves), so favorite a theme in the talk of their 
 northern neighbors, does not appear in this instance. It 
 would puzzle us, I think, to find in the United States any 
 city, save San Francisco when necessity compelled, where 
 by works of such magnitude a great city has so speedily been 
 metamorphosed through the destruction, replanning, and re- 
 building of some of the most compact and important busi-
 
 AVENIDA UK HIO HUANCO 
 
 BODLEVAUD IlKIKA MAU KUuM rK.NSAU SUI8SA
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 315 
 
 ness and residence sections. Nearly $60,000,000 was devoted 
 to this great transformation. 
 
 The phin which was approved in September, 1903, inchided 
 the construction of a great quay arranged for ships to come 
 alongside, furnished with storage warehouses, railways, and 
 electric lights, with a parallel avenue 125 feet wide and 2 
 miles long; the improving of a cross canal to the sea hy 
 making it a solidly walled stream, with on each side an ave- 
 nue shaded with palms; the lifting of the railroad from street 
 level to a viaduct 16 feet above; the construction of a broad 
 avenue straight to the Quinta of Boa Vista, residence of the 
 late Emperor; the increase of the water supply; the renova- 
 tion of the sewerage system with all modern improvements; 
 the removal of several hills; the filling in of large sections; 
 the widening of a number of streets; and the formation in 
 the heart of the city of a new avenue a mile and a quarter 
 long and 120 feet wide. 
 
 The inauguration of the great work of the Avenida Cen- 
 tral, as it was originally called, a broad thoroughfare cross- 
 ing, from one side to the other, the shallow peninsula oc- 
 cupied by the commercial district, on the front of which is 
 Caes Pharoux, occurred JMarch 8, 1904, with the participation 
 of the President and other officials and with much enthusiasm 
 on the part of the people; as a broad outlet for the future 
 traffic of the port was seen to be an absolute necessity. The 
 foundations of the building numbered 2, 4 and 6 being then 
 begun, the great task was swiftly advanced. Day and night 
 was the work pushed; 600 buildings within three months 
 were, by 3000 workmen, utterly demolished, ojx'uing a space 
 230 feet wide: 65 feet each side for the new buildings, 120 
 for the central paved i-oadway, and 20 for eacii siiU'walk. 
 Along the center of the avenue a row of 53 Pao Brazil trees 
 was planted in beds 16 feet long, and 55 posts bear each 3 
 electi'ic lights. On the sidewalks are more trees, and posts 
 for illumination by gas. As the trees grow larger the beauty 
 of the avenue will ])e increased. Most of tin; new buihiings, 
 which mark the introduction into Pra/il of American steel 
 fi'ame construction, are of line types of ai-chitcctni-c in a 
 variety of styles. 
 
 In other sections 1200 old buildings were .saciiticd to (>|)cn
 
 3-16 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 or widen a dozen other streets, these now from 55 to 100 feet 
 wide, paved with asphalt or in a few eases with fine granite 
 blocks. On all sides new buildings sprang up by magic. 
 
 Of still greater magnitude and requiring more time was 
 the improvement of the port, now approaching completion. ' 
 The stone quay more than two miles in length, with sufficient 
 depth of water to allow ships of any draught to come along- 
 side, is provided with the most modern machinery for hoist- 
 ing, loading and unloading ships, and with two stations sup- 
 plying electric power for these as well as for lighting already 
 in service. Back of the wall, a space where formerly were 
 bays and islands has been for the most part filled in, at some 
 points for a wddth of 800 feet. Then along the quay a broad 
 avenue was opened. A width of 80 feet for railroad tracks, of 
 110 feet for storage warehouses (called armazem) and for 
 administration offices, is followed by the broad well paved 
 avenue 125 feet wide, bordered wdth trees and with double 
 tracks for electric cars. To fill in this great space sand was 
 dredged from the bay, and earth was brought from Senado 
 Hill, now completely leveled. 
 
 While these great matters w^ere undertaken by the general 
 Government, the new ]\Iayor of Rio, Dr. Francisco Passos, 
 attended to the broadening- of other streets, repaying with 
 asphalt or with granite blocks; to the embellishing of the 
 city with gardens, etc., and to the construction of the beau- 
 tiful boulevard four miles long and 110 feet wide along the 
 water front towards the Pao de Assucar. Even the resur- 
 rection of San Francisco in one way seems less wonderful 
 than Rio 's transformation, in that the former was compulsory, 
 the latter voluntary. The greatest w^ork in Rio was more in 
 preparing anew the foundations than in the actual con- 
 struction. It was, says the Brazilian writer from whom I 
 have already quoted, "the work of an enterprise." lie 
 modestly says that there is nothing especial to say about the 
 buildings of Rio. As to those of a residential character he 
 asserts that some are nice, "but the majority of them is an 
 awful sight reminding antiquity." To me they did not so 
 appear, the many being pretty and tasteful, if unpretentious, 
 Avhile the dwellings of the poorer classes are less hideous than 
 those inhabited by the poor in our own country.
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 317 
 
 "While the most delightrul of the hours spent in Rio may 
 be those devoted to excursions to the suburbs, one should 
 visit also the commercial section, the public buildings, the 
 shops, the market ; and traverse some of the streets, wide and 
 narrow, where the life and business of the city go on. A day 
 or two may profitably be spent in the busy marts of trade. 
 
 One may set out from Caes Pharoux, to which suitable 
 attention will hardly be given when landing. Here is a great 
 Square or Plaza, in Portuguese a Praga, that of Xovembcr 
 15, Quinze de Novcmbro. At the right as you face the water- 
 front is the Ferry House for the boats running across to 
 Nictheroy. From here also depart excursion boats on Sun- 
 day for a trip around the bay. The Pra^a has the usual 
 pretty garden in the center, with a bronze equestrian statue 
 of General Osorio, Marquez do Ilcrval, one of the command- 
 ers in the Paraguayan War, and also leader of the State 
 forces of Rio Grande do Sul in an insurrection against the 
 first President of Brazil. On the right hand side of the 
 square, as one faces the water, near the Ferry House, is a 
 four-story building more than 150 years old, of typical co- 
 lonial architecture, once the residence of an aristocratic fam- 
 ily, now a lodging house. The large terra cotta building is 
 devoted to the Ministry of Transportation. The two-story 
 pink building, higlicr in the center, is of greater interest. 
 Erected in 17-17 and now occupied by the Dtpartmcnt of 
 Telegraphs, it was first the home of the Colonial Governors; 
 on the arrival of Prince Joao it became his residence, and 
 later served as the Imperial Palaee, It Mas here that the 
 Princess Regent, Isabella, signed the Emancipation Decree, 
 May 13, 18S8, as a tablet on the wall sets fortli, and from here 
 the Emperor Uom Pedro was taken, Nov. 17, LSSll, to be 
 placed upon a warship and l)anished to Eurojx', after the 
 proclamation of llic Krpublic, Nov. 15. 
 
 On the street, rua Dom Manoel, which separates these two 
 buildings, next to the Ministry of Transportation, is a large 
 green edifice which iiouscs the Naval Mus( urn. This Must'um, 
 founded by imperial decree in ISGS, was opened to the public 
 in 1884 with inaugurating ceremonies by the Emperor. On 
 tile anniversary of the battle of Riachuelo, an important naval 
 victory in the Paraguayan campaiirn, the museum was first
 
 318 tup: s(jiri ir American tour 
 
 oi)eiied in its present quarters Juue 11, 1898. Free entrance 
 daily, from 11 till 2, except Sundays and holidays. The first 
 section of the iiuiseuiu contains 29 oil paintings of Brazil's 
 great naval battles, 15 of these by the celebrated marine 
 artist, Chevallier E. de Martino, a protege of Dom Pedro II, 
 and later named by Queen Victoria Marine Painter to the 
 Court of England. Picture number 5, of the battle of 
 Riachuelo, is considered one of his best works. In the second 
 section are portraits and photographs of the Ministers of 
 Marine and naval heroes, including the British Admiral 
 Cochrane, who also helped the Spanish Americans in their 
 struggle for independence. Becoming Marquez do IMaranhao 
 he received a grant of land now held by his heirs. The third 
 section contains models of vessels, from the new Dreadnoughts 
 down to canoes and fishing boats. The fourth contains flags 
 and standards, the fifth, samples of artillery, cannon, and 
 projectiles, the sixth, hand weapons, such as spears and rifles, 
 the seventh, naval and Indian relics and curios, the eighth, 
 medals, souvenirs, etc. 
 
 The large Praca has a smaller continuation at the west, 
 facing which, on the corner of rua 7th of September, is the 
 Cathedral, to which a great tower is now being added. On 
 the other side is a larger church which might be mistaken 
 for the official building. Neither is especially handsome, 
 inside or out, both interiors being in an ornate rococo style 
 which may be admired by some. The Cathedral, however, has 
 as a feature of historic interest a slab set in the wall at the 
 left of the altar bearing an inscription in memory of the 
 discoverer, Pedro Alvares Cabral, whose remains were 
 brought from Portugal and interred in the wall of the tower 
 in 1903. 
 
 The Cathedral, founded in early colonial days, with this 
 tower is less overshadowed by the larger Igreja (Church) 
 do Carmo on its right. When the tower foundations were 
 sunk, a stratum of sea sand was struck containing fragments 
 of ancient sea craft, showing that the shore is now greatly 
 advanced. The completed tower will be the highest structure 
 in the city. With clocks on three sides it will carry a chime 
 of bells, the largest of which, weighing 21/0 tons, was cast in 
 Portugal in 1621. In the interior of the Cathedral is a fine
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO :n9 
 
 main altar, back of which is a painting of the Italian School. 
 Sul)-altars to the Virgin are on eacli side of the nave, and one 
 to Santa Rosa de Lima, Patron of South America. Near the 
 main altar is the throne of the Cardinal Archbishop, and 
 formerly there was in front of this a chair of state for the 
 use of the Emperor. A flag carried in the Paraguayan "War 
 by the regiment of Volunteers of tlie country is near the high 
 altar. In the second nielie on tlie right, to one entering, is a 
 "Christ of the Jury," torn by a mob of Anti-Clericals from its 
 place in the Jury Court. Later a new one was there placed 
 with great pomp and processions. 
 
 On the other side of rua 7th of September is a large white 
 building where the Commfrcial Museum, open from ten to 
 four, may be visited. Business men and others are welcome, 
 and a Bureau of Information is at hand for tlie service of com- 
 mercial men and manufacturers. Here nuiy be studied the 
 coffee grades of the world's great markets, the decisions of 
 the Tariff Commission, 229 varieties of Brazilian vegetable 
 products, including dyes, inks, aromaties, gums, resins, and 
 foods, with many medicinal plants, used among the natives 
 but unknown to the scientific world. Here also are 50 va- 
 rieties of fibres, 2000 varieties of Brazilian wood, ten of cot- 
 ton, an exhi])ition of the process of rubber making, etc. 
 
 In this building was formerly the Instituto Ilistorico e Gco- 
 graphico, a society founded in 1838 with a membership from 
 among the most intellectual men of the country. It has a 
 large collection of rare books and manuscripts, also busts of 
 bronze and marble, and relics of various kinds, one of these 
 the old Roda or wlieel used to receive children at the Casa 
 dos Expostos. This hollow wooden cylindci- willi an opening 
 at the side was fixed in the wall. A baby migiit easily be 
 deposited within and the wheel pushed around carrying the 
 baby inside, when a bell would ring in the convent sunniion- 
 ing the Sisters to receive the child. The Instituto now occu- 
 pies a fine new building on the I'raia da Lapa. 
 
 To the south of the Praca beyond the Ferry IIou.se. and 
 close to the water, is the ever interesting Market Place. 
 Fruits, fiowers, birds, meat, V(>getables, and peojile. all merit 
 attention, as do the well constructed booths and the attractive 
 cleanliness of the place.
 
 320 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 From this square many lines of electric railways lead in 
 various directions, but it is only a short walk to the Avenida 
 by the street at the corner of the Cathedral, or by several 
 parallel streets. It is better perhaps first to turn to the right 
 and follow the important street, Primeiro de Marco, parallel 
 to the bay front. On this street is the Post Office, the Bolsa 
 or Stock Exchange, of Italian style, one of the finest build- 
 ings of the city, the Bank of Commerce, and the Supreme 
 Court edifice of beautiful rose-colored stone and marble, 
 sumptuously decorated without and within. The Alfandega 
 or Custom House, of a green color, may be seen from this 
 rua, nearer the shore, on a street of the same name. From 
 the Primeiro de ]\Iarco many narrow streets lead to the 
 Avenida, which some of them cross, among these the Ouvidor, 
 long the most famous thoroughfare of Rio and still the fash- 
 ionable shopping street. Now alas! it has received another 
 name, Moreira Cesar, so you may look in vain for the Ouvidor, 
 though every one still calls it by its old appellation. This 
 fascinating little street is hardly 20 feet wide. The narrow 
 sidewalks are almost too smooth and slippery with variously 
 colored tiles. No carts or carriages are allowed in the street, 
 the center of which, well paved, is used by pedestrians. The 
 street is the rendezvous of high life, as well as of idlers, 
 students, politicians, and tourists. Here are the most elegant 
 shops, jewelry, book stores, dry goods, etc., with cafes and 
 clubhouses, some fine buildings, and others poor. 
 
 But before crossing by this to the Avenida, the Candelaria 
 Church a little to the north, on a narrow street of the same 
 name, should be visited. This, called the richest church in 
 Latin America, deserves a better location on a broad plaza, 
 rather than here on this little street. The edifice, planned and 
 built by a Brazilian engineer, Evaristo da Veiga, has three 
 finely carved bronze doors, and a rich and elaborate interior. 
 Fine marble columns, a beautiful ceiling with mosaic decora- 
 tions, and fine paintings by the best Brazilian artists, excite 
 admiration.
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 RIO DE JANEIKO— CONTINUED 
 
 The Avoiiida. Rio IJiaiu-o, .so called since the recent death 
 of the famous IJaroii of that name, formerly the Central, 
 is claimed by Brazilians to be the most beautiful street 
 in the world. Though, from one or another point of view, 
 other partisans may dispute its pre-eminence, there is no ques- 
 tion as to its splendid conslruetion and imposing edifices, 
 which for variety and beauty it would be difiicult to match 
 within the same distance in any other city. Every style of 
 architecture is represented, ^Moorish, Gothic, Italian, etc., 
 with varied and lovely coloring. ]\Iinarets and towers, un- 
 usual mosaic sidewalks, the welcome shade and friendly green 
 of trees, the dashing automobiles, fashionable and beautiful 
 women, men from almost every clime contribute to the won- 
 derful Avenida. ^Made to order, so rapidly as to take one's 
 breath, it is indeed a notable, a marvellous achievement: 
 begun in 1904, finished in 1906 ; and not this only, but the 
 beautiful Beira ]\Iar as well. It seems a transformation by 
 magic. To mention the various attractive buildings is impos- 
 sible. IMany banks and important eommereial houses may be 
 found here, buildings of the leading newspapers, the Jornal do 
 Contmcrcio, the Jornal do Brazil, the O I'aiz, and conspicuous 
 near the south end, the National Library and the Art Mu.^( am 
 on the left, the Municip(d Tluatcr on the right, and at the 
 very end on the right the Monroe Palace. 
 
 The National Library, called the most valuiililf in Souili 
 America and, with more than 400,000 eatalogued nuinbers. the 
 largest south of the etfuator, is housed in a iiaiidsoiiie building 
 of the best modern eciuipment. This was designed and con- 
 structed by the ^layor, (ieneral Souza Aguiar, after an inspec- 
 tion of the libraries of Europe and America. It contains its 
 own dcpai'tineiits ftir jii-infiiig and biixling. TIk^ famous 
 Ajuda Collection, which was brought over by Prince Joao 
 
 '321
 
 322 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 in 1806, when Napoleon's army invaded Portugal, was the 
 nucleus. From the old Carmelite hosi)ital in the rua Primeiro 
 de Mar(;;o it was moved to its own quarters in 1810, when it 
 already numbered 60,000 volumes. All schools and periods 
 of typographic art may here be found, examples of Johann 
 Fust and Peter Sehoeffer, Aldins and Plautius, Ibarras, 
 Elsivers, and many others. A permanent exhibition has been 
 arranged of Books, ]\Ianuscripts and Charts, Engravings and 
 Prints, Medals and Coins. In the rarity of some of its treas- 
 ures, if not in number, the collection compares with the fa- 
 mous ones of Europe: a perfect copy of the Mazarin Bible 
 printed in 1462, the first from movable type, the first edition 
 of the New Testament by Erasmus of Rotterdam, 1514, a 
 Novus Orbis Regionum with map of Brazil, 1532, a Roycroft 
 Bible, London 1557, and many other rarities. Among the 300 
 engravings and prints are works of Diirer, Cranach, Rubens, 
 etc. With over 100,000 prints and above 30,000 (many rare) 
 numismatic specimens, a treat is afforded to the specialist. 
 
 The reading room, wdiere it should be, on the main floor, 
 is furnished with comfortable leather-covered armchairs and 
 individual desks. In the side galleries around the rotunda 
 are arranged in glass cases many of the especial gems of the 
 rare specimens. In the great stack rooms, I observed many 
 books in English, noticing the names of ]\Iark Twain, 
 Macaulay, Dickens, and others. The finest editions of the 
 various works in handsome bindings seem to have been 
 selected. 
 
 The library is open from ten a. m. to nine p. m. with the 
 usual exception of Sundays and holidays. 
 
 Other libraries Avhicli only the specialist will be likely to 
 visit are the Fluniinense with 90,000 volumes, on the Ouvidor, 
 the Libraries of the Army, and of the Xavy, that of the Med- 
 ical School with 70,000 volumes, of the Polytechnic with 
 70,000, the Senate Library, the Congressional, the Gahinete 
 Portuguez de Leitura, occupying a beautiful building in the 
 rua Luis de Camoes near San Francisco Square, the Com- 
 merce Library in the Stock Exchange Building, and others. 
 
 Next to the Bibliotheca Nacional on the Avenida is the 
 Escola de Bellas Artes, the Art School and Museum. Again 
 the collection of Prince Joao wa$ the nucleus to which many
 
 NATIONAL LIUUAHY 
 
 bCU'iuL VI UNI. AUl-
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 323 
 
 accretions have been made by Government grant and by pri- 
 vate donations. Among original works of tlie old masters 
 of various schools whit-h are here to be seen are canvases of 
 Caracci, Correggio, Greuze, Guido Reni, Jordaens, Lucjus, 
 Murillo, Poussin, Rubens, Snyder, Jan Stein, Teniers, Tin- 
 toretto, Van Uyke, Velascjuez, Veronese, Wouvermans, and 
 many others, besides more than 100 never positively iden- 
 tified. Among fine pieces of sculpture is one l)y Rodnlpho 
 Bernadelli of Christ and the Adulteress. A large number 
 of produetions of Brazilian artists is also included in the col- 
 lection, wliieh is said to be the largest and most imixirtant 
 in South America. 
 
 Opposite the Fine Arts ]\Iuseum is the Municipal Thaihr, 
 a splendid edifice, facing a small triangular park, with one 
 side on the Avenida. 
 
 The theater, like the Colon in Buenos Aires, is fitted up 
 with every modern improvement, mechanical and electrical 
 devices above and ])elow the stage, which seems almost as 
 large as the auditorium, with rows upon rows of floor drops 
 to give the dei)th desired. A power plant, an air filtering 
 and cooling plant, and what is called the most beautiful res- 
 taurant in South America, minister to the comfort of the 
 audience. The restaurant of Assyrian style in details follows 
 Babylonian originals in the Louvre of Paris. The leather- 
 covered armchairs in the auditorium, of unusual width and 
 well spaced, are especially comfortable. The President, of 
 course, is provided with an elegant box, communieating with 
 private salon and dining-i'oom on the tloor below. Modelled 
 after the Paris Opera House, though a trifle smaller, it is 
 richly decorated. Designed and built by Dr. Franeisco 
 Oliveira Passos, son of the great ^Ma.Nor Passos. during whose 
 administration the grand transformation of the city was 
 largely effected, the theater was inaugurated in July, inon, 
 with Rejane and an all star Freneh company. It is now 
 leased to an impresario who must produce each year a num- 
 ber of standard plays, some in Portuguese translation, and 
 some i)lays by native dramatists, further encoui-aging national 
 art by conducting a dramatic school. Visitors may be ad- 
 mitted at the rear entrance between ten and four on working 
 days.
 
 324 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 At the very end of the Avenue, not far from the Theater 
 and close to the sea, with open space on every side, stands 
 the Monroe I'aldcc, wliich at the St. Louis Exposition served 
 as the lirazilian headquarters, and here, in 1906, as the meet- 
 ing place for the second Pan American Congress. It is of a 
 rather florid type of architecture, the most ornate of the 
 buildings on the Avenue. 
 
 The Monroe Palace has one entrance on the Avenida and 
 one on the opposite side towards the Passeio Publico. This 
 most ancient of the public gardens of Rio, founded in 1783, 
 contains vegetation from this epoch, hence 130 years old. It 
 has the usual beauties of tropical parks, trees, s]irul)l)ery, 
 flower beds, and vines, also several statues, and a pretty build- 
 ing, entrance 1 milreis, housing a collection of native fishes. 
 This Marine Aquarium, installed in 1904, has 20 sections with 
 35 difli'erent species; among these, flying fish, feather fish, 
 turtles, moon fish, crabs, sea-horses, varieties of lobsters, and 
 of marine plants. A pavilion, affording opportunity for rest 
 and the purchase of refreshments, supplies also music and 
 moving pictures. The garden, which is much frequented, 
 was designed by a native artist, Valentim da Fonseea e Silva, 
 more familiarly known as mestre Valentim. The artistic 
 decoration includes two statues, Apollo and i\lercury, the 
 arms of Luiz de Vaseoneellos, then Viceroy, the bust in the 
 fount of the jacares, and two granite pyramids inscribed 
 1783, A' saudade do Rio e Ao Amor do Puhlico. 
 
 Busts of the poets, Goncalves Dias, and Castro Alves, and 
 of the journalist, Ferreira de Aranjo, founder of the Gazeta 
 de Koiicias, have been placed in the garden. At the main 
 entrance is a gilded bronze medallion of Queen Maria and 
 her consort, Dom Pedro III. 
 
 Among the important streets running from the Praea 15th 
 of November across the Avenida, a little north of the Hotel 
 Avenida, are the Assemblea leading to the Praca da Carioca, 
 a short distance from the Avenue, and the rua 7th of Sep- 
 tember leading to the Praqa Tirandcntes farther west. The 
 Garden contains an admirable statue, by the French sculptor 
 Rochel, of Dom Pedro I, founder of the empire. Continuing 
 in the same direction, one will reach the large and beautiful 
 Pra^a da Kepuhlica, in a Praca or Square of the same name,
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 325 
 
 of unusual size for a park near the heart of the business see- 
 tion. Here are woods, lakes, and streams witli aquatie birds, 
 blaek and white swans, islands and rustic bridges, a grotto 
 with a pretty caseade, 66,000 varieties of phmts, many birds 
 and animals, and some statuary. 
 
 All of the parks are characterized by bixuriaiit ti-opical 
 verdure. 
 
 On the Praga, south of the Park, is an immense building, 
 the Firemen's Barracks. 
 
 To the northwest, facing a paved scpiare, is tlie great Station 
 of the Central Iiailway, with tracks running into three dif- 
 ferent states and to forty or more cities, inchiding Sfio Paulo. 
 Its revenue is more than .$10,000,000 a year. On another 
 side of the Praca facing the Park is tlie Senate House, and 
 the Mint with an imposing facade and some hue ornamen- 
 tation in bronze. Other buildings on the sides of the Praga 
 are the Ministry of War, the Barracks, the Normal School, 
 the Foreijiii Office, the Law and the jMedical Schools, and 
 the National Seliool of ]\Iusic. 
 
 From the northwest corner of the Park two parallel streets 
 run westward, the Visconde de Itauna and Senador Eusebio, 
 to the Square Onze do Junho, whence they continue at the 
 side of the Canal do Manguc, forming a grand boulevard with 
 two rows of royal palms on each side. This double and 
 channeled avenue has one sharp bend, turning in the direction 
 of the new docks, where the canal empties into the harljor. 
 It is a mile and a half in length, h;is two tracks for eleeti'ic 
 cai'S, paved ways for wagons, and l)road asphalt for automo- 
 biles, to which the central stream of w'ater with its massive 
 stone embankments and the superl) rows of palms add an 
 unusual beauty. 
 
 The Zoological Canh n, admission l.jiOOO is reached by elec- 
 trics of the Villa Isabel line from the Praea 1') de Novembro, 
 a pleasant ride. Some interesting animals are on view, but if 
 time is limited, it iiuiy be better employed elsewhere. 
 
 From the same S(juare, cars nuirked Sfio Chrislovao go to 
 the Xational Mustiini in the (Jidnta ih ll^a Vista. Tlie 
 Quinta, a fine large park, deserves a visit, the A(|uarium (free) 
 also, even should the Museum be closed, as lias long been tiie 
 case, for the puri)Ose of extensive alterations. The Museum,
 
 326 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 with other objects has a pfoocl collection of archajolof^ncal and 
 ethnographical specimens. A famous meteorite of unusual 
 size, named Bendego, was formerly in the vestibule. The great 
 building was earlier the winter palace of Dom Pedro II. It 
 has been proposed to transfer the Zoological Garden to this 
 handsome park. 
 
 The various hills remaining in the center of the city, a 
 few have been completely leveled, give variety and pic- 
 turesqueness to its topography, although interfering some- 
 what with ease of locomotion and traffic. Of considerable 
 height and steepness, they are slender, so that the way around 
 is not over long ; thus in the opinion of the tourist who has an 
 eye for scenic beauty they are not to be regretted. The 
 energetic person with a little time to spare should enjoy the 
 ascent of the four hills which are near the Avenida, and of 
 one or two of those along the Beira jMar. Near the south 
 end of the Avenue, a little back of the Hotel Avenida, is 
 the Santo Antonio hill surmounted by a convent of that 
 name. The main entrance is from the rua 13th of May, in 
 a narrow passage between the Santa Thereza Tramway Sta- 
 tion and the Government Printing Office on the left. The 
 ancient and massive structure of the Convent, built rather 
 to defy the ravages of time than to excite admiration for its 
 beauty, has outside walls on the ground floor 4 feet 9 inches 
 in thickness. The vast corridors are poorly lighted. Begun 
 June 4, 1608, the construction was finished in 1615. The 
 hill, originally Morro do Carmo, later took its name from 
 the convent. Of the Franciscan Order, the convent is poor, 
 but the fine sacristy is worth visiting. Here is antique and 
 artistic furniture, such as is rarely seen, carved from jacar- 
 anda, one of Brazil's most valuable woods. Here, too, is a 
 remarkable wainscoting of blue tile, representing incidents in 
 the life of St. Anthony, paintings on wood, a staff done in 
 gold and precious stones presented by the Prince Regent, 
 another from the Governor of Sacramento, now Uruguay, and 
 other curiosities. In 1855 an imperial decree suspended the 
 novitiate of religious orders ; by 1886 but one member of the 
 community remained; in 1889, with the establishment of the 
 Republic, religious liberty was ordained, other friars were 
 admitted, and the work of restoration began. In a large
 
 RIO DE JAXEIRO 327 
 
 saloon of the coiivont is a stone slab marking the burial place 
 of John F'orbes Skellater, native of Scotland, who served the 
 Kings of Portugal as General and Councillor, aecoiiipanying 
 II. R. n. to Rio de Janciio, whore he died April S, LSOS, 
 at the age of 76. In an old chapel of the cloisters is a 
 tomb containing the remains of the Prince Pedro Affonso, 
 son of the Emperor, Doni Pedro II. Several pictures by 
 unknown artists remain from ancient days. 
 
 Tlie hill on the other side of the Avenue, also soutli of rua 
 Assemblea is Castclh, at the top of which is the Astronomical 
 Observatory with ruins of an ancient church. The easy climb 
 by a narrow paved roadway is well worth making for the de- 
 lightful view from the summit of the city and harbor below, 
 and the more distant mountains in the rear. 
 
 Near the foot of Castello on the east side, facing the bay on 
 the Praia dc Santa Luzia is Miscricordid HospilaJ, larircst of 
 the kind in South America: a great institution with 57 doc- 
 tors, 88 nurses and many assistants. In 1010, 12,171 cases 
 were treated besides 154,600 outdoor patients. Among other 
 numerous and notable philanthropic institutions is the ad- 
 mii-abic Institute of Protection and Assistance to Infants, on 
 rua Visconde do Rio Branco 12, founded by Dr. ^loncorvo Jr. 
 in 1901; accomplishing a great work in the surgical and medi- 
 cal treatment of children and mothers, and in propagating in- 
 formation as to hygiene. It received a Clrand Pi-i/.e at the 
 International Exhibition at Rome 1912. Equally if not more 
 distinguished is the Pathological Institute Oswaldo Cm/, also 
 founded in 1901. This, outside the city at Manguinhos. 
 reached by rail or water in 45 minutes, is called the most com- 
 pletely equii)pt'd in the world for such work: the study of dis- 
 ease germs, the preparation of serums, etc. Its publications 
 numl)er nearly 100. The smallpox microbe was here discov- 
 ered. 
 
 Near the north end of the Avcnida on the same side as the 
 Castello is the ^Sdo Bcnlo hill, at the extremity of the rua 
 Primeiro de ^larco, the enclosure of the Henedictine ^lonastery 
 above being entered by a large gateway at the bottom of a 
 flight of stone steps. Founded in 1591, the existing cluirch 
 was Imilt between 1633 and 1642; the present monastery was 
 begun in 1652. During the French invasion in 1711, the
 
 328 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 buildings were seriously damaged, and the Order contributed 
 liberally for the French to leave the town. Nearly half the 
 building was in 1732 destroyed by fire. The proi)erty, till 
 1827 belonging to the Portuguese Congregation, was then 
 transferred to the newly organized Brazilian Congregation. 
 In 1909 Sao Bento became Abhadia Nullius, equivalent to 
 an Archbishopric. It had, in 1912, 20 monks in residence and 
 6 in the Rio Branco Mission to Indians in the Amazon region. 
 The monastery has, since 1858, maintained a free school for 
 boys, primary and secondary, with 400 pupils now in attend- 
 ance, and with 500 in a night school. Lay professors assist 
 and many distinguished men have here received their early 
 education. The Order is very wealthy, owning much prop- 
 erty in the middle of the city. It formerly owned the site 
 of the Marine Arsenal and the Uha das Cobras, which was 
 purchased in 1589 by the founder of the monastery for 15 
 milreis, about $5.00. In the revolt of the Naval Brigade, 
 December, 1910, on the Cobras Island, the Government forces 
 made use of the monastery, which suffered seriously from the 
 return fire. The church, rich in carved and gilded decora- 
 tions, is worth a visit. It contains some rare furniture, and 
 an ancient organ valuable only as a relic. The sacristy and 
 corridors preserve a large number of old paintings. One of 
 the cells, containing fine specimens of wood work, with a bed 
 formerly used by D, Joao VI, is for the especial use of the 
 Papal Nuncio when he descends for a few days from his resi- 
 dence in Petropolis. The library of 15,000 volumes com- 
 prises many valuable theological works, both in printing and 
 in manuscript. 
 
 On the west side of the Avenue, near the same north end, 
 is the Morro da Conceigdo, easily ascended from rua Acre 
 by a paved way with steps. There are many dwellings on 
 this hill, with the Palace of the Cardinal Archbishop at the 
 top. He prefers, however, to live below in a residence in the 
 rua do Bispo. Offices adjoining the Cathedral, in the 7th 
 of September street, are used for the official work. Adjoin- 
 ing the Palace grounds on the hill top is the Fortaleza, built 
 in 1715. Formerly one of the chief points in the defense of 
 the city it is now used as a barracks for an infantry regiment. 
 The watch towers, old sentry boxes, and the dungeons are of
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 329 
 
 interest. The last have been in use, even since the founding 
 of the Republic, for the imprisonment of political offenders; 
 in 1893-94, Hritish subjects, ;mioii<; others, were here im- 
 mured. The view from this hill-top over the city is the 
 most comprehensive to be obtained from any central point.
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 
 RIO DE JANElliO— CONCLUDED 
 
 Too long, mayhap, have we lingered in the heart of the 
 city, longer I fancy than any tourist will do, despite the at- 
 tractions in the busy marts of trade, and the stately edifices 
 devoted to governmental, artistic, and intellectual purposes. 
 The great charm of the city, the feature which makes it incom- 
 parable among the capitals of the world, is the number of 
 delightful excursions practicable to its enchanting suburbs. 
 Some of these may be visited by electric car or automobile, 
 as the length of one's purse prescribes, others by boat, and 
 one by cog railway. 
 
 Most persons will be tempted to improve the very first 
 afternoon by a ride along the front of the bay, on the 
 unrivaled Bcira Mar, from the ]\Ionroe Palace on the Avenida 
 to the foot of the Pao de Assucar, a ride without parallel, 
 even on the shores of the Mediterranean. This magnificent 
 boulevard invites also to a promenade, for a broad walk 
 guarded by a handsome railing tops the massive sea wall, 
 which rises 15 feet above the W'ave-sprinkled rocks below. 
 Rarely, indeed, the waves rise higher. July 12th, 1911, a 
 heavy Avind blowing from the south not only dashed breakers 
 high above the wall, but wdth these sent stones weighing a ton 
 over upon the boulevard. Next to the promenade come two 
 wide asphalt spaces, separated by a strip of grass and a row 
 of trees, for automobiles going in opposite directions, 
 thronged towards evening with swiftly moving machines. A 
 garden strip of varying width follows, beautiful shrubbery, 
 brilliant coleas, and other plants with leaves of varied hue, 
 gorgeous red salvias, geraniums, and other showy flowers. 
 Now comes the wide paved street with ample space for ordi- 
 nary vehicles and for the double tracks of the electric cars. 
 
 330
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 331 
 
 A few minutes from the ^lonroe Palace, and almost in front 
 of the Pensao Suissa is the Pra<»a da Gloria where Cattete 
 street branches from the Beira ]Mar. The very pretty Garden 
 contains two notable monuments : one of these to Pedro Al- 
 vares Cabral, discoverer of Brazil, by Rodolpho liernadelli, 
 Director of the School of Fine Arts. This monument inau- 
 gurated in 1900, the fourth centenary of the Discovery, rep- 
 resents with Cal)ral the chronicler, Pero Vaz Caminha, and 
 the Franciscan, Henrique de Coimbra, who celebrated the lirst 
 mass on the soil of South America. The other monument, 
 dedicated in 1902, is a statue of Visconde do Rio Branco by the 
 French sculptor, Charpentior. The ascent of the Ciloria hill 
 close by is worth while for the splendid panorama from the 
 summit, if not for the little church above where on the ]r)th 
 of August is a festival. 
 
 Beyond the Gloria hill are finer residences with i)retty gar- 
 dens, distracting attention from the view of the Sugar Loaf in 
 front, the silvery waters on the left, the city of Nictheroy on 
 the opposite side of the bay, and the curving inlets of both 
 shores. On account of a projecting hill the car tracks leave 
 the water's edge for a space, passing back to the Luifjo do 
 Machiulo, where the offices of the railway are situated, the 
 place to go for lo.st articles. After passing the Hotel dos Es- 
 trangeiros, the boulevard is soon regained on the Botafogo 
 Bay, a lovely geometrical curve. Again leaving the sliore the 
 car marked Mijiistcrio de Agrirulturn alone returns to tlie 
 Praia da Saudade, on which the great Hospital for the l)is<n)r 
 is passed, the Institute Benjamin Canatant for the Blind, and 
 the ini|)()sing building of the Ministrif of AgricuUurr. the ears 
 at lengtli i^ausing in front of the Militarn School liiiilding, 
 which stands by the ocean shore: we have now passed beyond 
 the splendid Sugar Loaf, so that in the rear of the School 
 P.uildiiig we shoidd find the Praia Vermelha. a beach on the 
 great ocean. An Aerial h'a.ilwaif now serves for a trip to the 
 tip top of the pinnacle, Pdo de Assurar. whence a delightful 
 view is obtained of city, bay, and ocean. The same Praia 
 Vermelha car passes the base station whence an electric basket 
 cable car accommodating twenty persons go<>s, ti?'st to the 
 ]\lorro da Urea, then on to the toji of the ITio dc .\ssiican. .\ 
 return ticket for tlie trip is usnally 4*(t(»i. The journey
 
 332 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 to the top is made in twelve minutes. The distance is nearly 
 a mile. 
 
 Other rides partly aloii^^ the front, or on Cattete street paral- 
 lel to the Beira Mar, should be taken to the various suburban 
 ocean beaches of Leme, Copacahana, Ipanema, and (Javea, 
 backed by picturesque hills, through which a tunnel or two 
 has been bored for more direct access. Some of the beaches, 
 though rather dangerous for bathing, are more or less pat- 
 ronized. Many people wander along the shore, or in pavilions 
 regale themselves with beer or coffee. Villas of the wealthy 
 and a sprinkling of poorer houses, with several hotels and 
 restaurants, show provision for all classes. Everywhere in 
 the residential districts outside of the more crowded central 
 portion, attention will be continually drawn to the charming 
 homes, some of quite palatial dimensions and elegance, the 
 majority more modest but generally with some pretty orna- 
 mentation, all apparently freshly painted in varied and deli- 
 cate shades of color, pink, blue, green, lavender, pearl, buff, 
 Alice blue, etc., embowered among vines, shrubbery, and 
 palms : an unceasing source of pleasure. 
 
 On the w-ay to the beaches by the rua Cattete, before reach- 
 ing the Strangers' Hotel, the President's Palace may be ob- 
 served on the left. The large garden extends through to the 
 boulevard along the Praia de Flamengo, but the entrance is 
 from Cattete. The exterior of the Palace, which was con- 
 structed by the Baron of Nova Friburgo and later purchased 
 by the Government, is not noteworthy, but the interior has 
 magnificent decorations; the garden would be a fitting acces- 
 sory of a royal palace. Next to the Palace is the beautiful 
 school building, Rodrigues Alves, a suitable monument to 
 the great President of Brazil, in whose administration was 
 inaugurated the tremendous undertaking by which the city 
 has been transformed. 
 
 Not far from the Hotel Estrangeiros, a beautiful avenue 
 lined with royal palms, half a mile long, leads to a fine man- 
 sion, which in 1911 was the residence of the President. 
 
 In a long afternoon of four or five hours the entire circuit 
 of the city may be made by automobile along the Beira Mar 
 on the shore of the bay, then past the ocean beaches to the 
 mountains and by a splendid road along the mountain-side
 
 ■nil rKi.-iiiL.Nr 
 
 IIOTA.NK.VL (..Mtl'h.N
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 333 
 
 past Gavea and Tijuca, thence across to tlie waterfront, and 
 by the docks returning to the Avenida Central ; a circuit with 
 varied panorama such as no other city of the world affords, 
 to which an entire day might better be devoted. 
 
 The Botanical Garden, long celebrated as possessing the 
 finest collection of tropical plants among the parks of the 
 world, was founded in 1808 by Dom Joao VI when Prince 
 Regent of Portugal. At the Avenida Station, a ear marked 
 Gavea may be taken about once in ten minutes. The route 
 is at first a familiar one, near the shore of the bay, but turns 
 at length to the west, passing presently under the steep walls 
 of Corcovado on the right and near the shore of a consider- 
 able lake, the Lagoa Rodrigues de Freitas on the left, a ride 
 for wliicli the three-quarters of an hour required is none too 
 long. Within the gateway, flanked by small office buildings, 
 one is confronted by a splendid avenue of superb palms, 150 
 in number, extending in a straight line nearly half a mile. 
 The tree trunks, a yard in diameter at the base, are straight 
 shafts 75 feet high, ere they are topped by their leafage 
 crown. Some distance up, this avenue is crossed by another 
 of 140 palms, a fountain adorning the square of intersection. 
 These palms, with all those forming colonnades ia other parts 
 of the city, are descendants of the ancient tree which was 
 planted by D. Joao VI. The story goes that some Brazilian 
 officeis, shipwrecked, were carried to the Isle of France, where 
 was a tine botanical garden. One of the officers, Luiz de 
 Abreu, after gaining possession of several choice specimens, 
 managed to escape with them. Returning to Brazil he pre- 
 sented them to Dom Joao, who, transferring them to the Gar- 
 den, planted with his own hands the seed of tiie Ixoyal rahn. 
 The tree still standing, 130 feet high, apparently destined to 
 flourish for some time longer, is marked by an inscription, 
 and will be pointed out by an attendant if overlooketl. It 
 is not, of course, in any of the rows. Besides hundreds of 
 varieties of Brazilian i»lants, the (Jarden contains as many 
 I'lom all parts of the world; it maintains close relations with 
 other Gardens, sending to them hundreds of thousands of 
 seeds, as well as making extensive distribution in various parts 
 of Bi-azil. A (1. ■light fid st-ction at the h-ft of the i-ntrance 
 is called the Bamboo Salon, where a walk under the feathery
 
 334 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 archway recalls the aisle of a Gothic cathedral. Of great 
 interest is the traveler's tree, somewhat resembling a banana 
 plant, of which the sap is like pure cold water. The gentle- 
 man who showed me about, kindly cut the stalk with his knife. 
 I drank as the sap spouted forth, and found it indis- 
 tinguishable from clear water. If the tree would grow in 
 desert regions, what a godsend to the thirsty traveler ! The 
 victoria rcgia with its great leaves, four or five feet in diame- 
 ter floating on the water is always noteworthy, even if it is 
 not the flowering season, there May or June. Naturally 
 rubber trees of many varieties are to be seen, coffee 
 shrubs, tea plants, and others in profusion, both useful and 
 beautiful, a wealth of vines, but fewer orchids, at least in 
 blossom, than I had hoped. The candelabra tree, so called 
 from its shape, and the cow tree, which supplies a kind 
 of milk better for making cement than for drinking, are 
 of interest. An especial curiosity is one tree growing 
 inside of another, the trunk of the palm being almost com- 
 pletely surrounded by the trunk of another tree of entirely 
 different character, both trees now 30 or 40 feet high. 
 
 A number of pretty pavilions, a lake, grottoes, and cascades 
 contribute to adorn the Garden, also several monuments and 
 statues. One of the monuments is in memory of the real 
 founder of the Garden, Frei Leandro do Sacramento, Pro- 
 fessor of Botany in the Faculty of Medicine, a distinguished 
 scholar, who on his death in 1829 left the Garden in a flourish- 
 ing condition. At the end of the central avenue of palms, 
 the monument, Dca Palmaris, was inaugurated in 1906. 
 There are various statues of nymphs, a temple of Nike, a 
 Belvedere, a colonial portico, and the first statue ever cast in 
 Brazil, this in 1783 by Valentim da Fonseca e Silva. In one 
 of the buildings hj the gate is a herbarium of great value, 
 as also a library. Even unscientific persons with no especial 
 interest in botany may enjoy a long afternoon wandering in 
 the delightful walks, the charm of which is increased by the 
 wooded steeps and grim cliff's of Corcovado just above, seeing 
 here the side of Corcovado precisely opposite to the one visible 
 from the center of the city. One may leave the Garden in 
 time to continue the short distance to the end of the line to 
 Gavea, where there is a noted spring of water of excellent
 
 KIO DE JANEIRO 335 
 
 quality. From a spot called Boa Vista, a short climb, the 
 I^auorama is superb. The headlands, Dous Irinaos, are at the 
 left, the shores ever beaten by angry waves; in front is the 
 broad ocean dotted with islands, one named Rosa bearing a 
 lighthouse; on the right imposing Gavea, on whose face near 
 the summit may be distinguished lines believed to have been 
 traced ])y some primitive people. The name Gavea, meaning 
 topsail, is derived from the shape of the summit. Its ascent 
 is possible from the side towards Tijuca and has several times 
 been made. 
 
 Corcovado. ]\rost delightful to many of all the days to 
 be spent at Rio will be that which is devoted to the As- 
 cent of Corcovado; nor should it long be postponed. Tiie first 
 clear day or afternoon should be improved, as at some sea- 
 sons clouds are frequent. Even setting out with a 
 cloudless sky, one may find the goal shrouded in mist, 
 or spread out below a mantle of softest sheen conceal- 
 ing in part or whole the glorious prospect beneath. There 
 is a choice of two routes to the summit : both I strongly 
 recommend; every one should go twice; but with time so 
 limited that a single trip may be made it is desirable to go 
 one way and return the other. The Sylvestre route begins by 
 electric car, starting every half hour from tiie Largo da 
 Carioca back of the Avenida Hotel. The other, longer or 
 shorter, according to the point of departure, is all by cog- 
 wheeled railway; but the base station is 35 or 40 minutes 
 from the Avenida. One takes here or farther out a car 
 marked Cosme Velho or Laranueiras to the i)retty station 
 among the Santa Tliei-csa liills. passing on the way th(> famil- 
 ial* Esl range! I'os and i^ai-go do Macliailo, there turning to the 
 right on Larangeiras, a street as yet unfamiliar. Near the 
 end of the line on the left is the station, return ticket 3 
 milreis, wiiere one enters a car open at" tiie sides with suf- 
 ficiently comfortable seats if you face upwards. The track, 
 one meter wide, about two miles long, cros.ses the valley of 
 the Sylvestre stream on an iron viaduct of three arches, each 
 80 feet wide, supported on iron pilhirs with a masonry base, 
 then enters a deep trench, later erossing two more bridges. 
 
 At tlie first station, Sylvestre, tho.se board the train who 
 have come bj^ electrics to this point. The bitter, after a few
 
 336 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 rods of steep grade from Carioca, wind along the side of San 
 Antonio Hill in gradual ascent, then cross on tlie picturesque 
 double arches of the old viaduct to the outlying hill of the 
 Santa Thereza ridge. Swiftly speeds the car affording but 
 fleeting glimpses of the busy streets and the houses below. 
 Winding along the hillside, soon passing the International 
 Hotel, with many level stretches and moderate inclines, the out- 
 look above or below is enchanting. Any description must fall 
 far short of the reality. The conjunction of a great city with 
 picturesque scenery, pellucid bays, ragged cliffs, and tropical 
 vegetation is unparalleled. One sits enthralled with the 
 vision of loveliness. One's entire vocabulary of adjectives 
 such as exquisite, entrancing, magnificent, sublime, crowd 
 upon the mind. A short distance away towers the massive 
 Sugar Loaf, its cliffs so steep and smooth that apparently even 
 a fly would find no foothold, unless with a liberal suppl}^ of 
 Spalding s glue upon his little toes. My cry was not ' ' for 
 the wings of a dove ! ' ' but for the pen of my gifted friends, 
 Aked or Gifford, to attempt the glowing description the scenes 
 deserve. Here are trees with great bunches of yellow flowers, 
 somewhat resembling wistaria, but with a very artificial look. 
 Many trees bear large scarlet flowers. One below is covered 
 with white blossoms. Pretty villas and gardens are passed, 
 the dwellings, pink, bkie, green, and terra cotta. In bright 
 sunshine smoked glasses may seem desirable to eyes not espe- 
 cially strong. As we skirt the hillside in many curves, the 
 city below is now on our right, the gleaming bay, and curving 
 shore; the next moment the steep slopes or cliffs above; and 
 now we move through a dense and quiet forest. A good car- 
 riage road is here by the side of the track. A happy couple is 
 occasionally seen strolling on a sequestered path. In January 
 it was too warm to enjoy a climb, but a leisurely descent would 
 at any time be a pleasure. In winter, June, July, and August, 
 the ascent Avould be equally agreeable, and the opportunity 
 to pause and enjoy the charming vistas no one could fail to 
 appreciate. 
 
 At Sylvestre, about 700 feet altitude, where the transfer is 
 made to the cog-wheeled railway, there is a little hotel where 
 a cup of tea may be enjoyed and a short walk taken, unless 
 close connection is made. In this case you must run across
 
 CORCOVADO FROM THE BOULKVARD IlEIKA MAR 
 
 THROUCiH TUB CLOUDS, hh V
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO 337 
 
 the track to the booth where tickets are sold, buying for the 
 round trip unless minded to Avalk down ; an excellent idea, 
 as the time allowed above is short. Descending on foot to 
 Sylvestre a ear may there be taken every half -hour. The 
 hours of the train on the cog railway should be carefully 
 investigated, as they are few, and vary with the season; on 
 week days formerly 10 and 2, on Sundays nearly every hour 
 but the last descending at 5. Now on the cog-wheeled road, 
 the grade is at times so heavy that if riding backwards you 
 must brace or hang on, lest you slip from the seat. The train 
 is run by electricity with four cables and an engine. Six 
 kinds of brakes may be relied upon in case of accident ; they 
 never occur on this line, but occasionally on the tramway. 
 Thick woods and a tangle of vines now mostly shut out the 
 distant i)rospect, but these are fascinating, flosses, ferns, 
 and lichens, forest palms, tendril-draped trees with every 
 shade of green, orchids, begonias, and other blossoms, trickling 
 waters, narrow forest paths, sudden glimpses of the shimmer- 
 ing bay, of dark tree-tops, of massive cliffs below, or of craggy 
 peak above, make every moment a delight. At the station 
 Fdineiras, alt., 1500 feet, is the Hotel Coroovado, with restau- 
 rant service at all hours and eomfortable rooms, a resort for 
 convalescents and others. It has a temperature 15° or 18" 
 lower than in the city and delightful shady walks. At a 
 little distance a clearing affords a wonderful outlook. The 
 track ends at the foot of a cliff whence a good path of rather 
 steep grade leads to the summit 100 feet above, crowned by 
 the usual pavilion. This stands quite 2200 feet above tl)e sur- 
 face of the bay. One hardly pauses here, but descending 
 a few steps goes on to the very end, the brink of tiie perpen- 
 dicular cliff on tlie south side, with a sheer drop of 1700 feet, 
 well protected by a substantial Avail with a seat for the feeble 
 or the loiterer. And who woiikl not loiter here, with this 
 beautiful vision spread out beneath! A jjanorama of sur- 
 ])assing loveliness! Oil, read Miss Cameron's Involuntary 
 Chapcrunc! and you may gain some small idea of the enchant- 
 ing scenes. In afternoon light, in sunset glow, in the (juiet 
 evening with the twinkling liglits below and the serene niooa 
 above, this is a paradise for lovei-s. a fairy land for all. 
 
 The view from Tijuca more beautiful! AVho at Corco-
 
 338 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 vado can lu'licvo it? Not I ! But so some have said. There- 
 fore to Tijiica must one go if possible. The electric cars 
 marked Tijuca, which run from Praca 15th of November 
 along rua Assemblea to the suburb, may be taken for the ex- 
 cursion. The ride is through a very different section, by the 
 Canal do ]\Iangue, then through clean streets, lined by com- 
 fortable dwellings of the middle class, some more pretentious 
 with pretty gardens, nearly all painted in delicate shades of 
 gay colors. In the really suburban section are many fine 
 villas, and after a gradual ascent among the hills one descends 
 6 miles from the Avenida, at a park, alt. 1000 ft., called Boa 
 Vista, on one side of which is a hotel; also an establishment 
 where saddle horses may be procured, perchance an automo- 
 bile, for the continuance of the journey. These are rather 
 expensive; an auto to Tijuca costs 20$000 per hour, nearly 
 $7.00, around the city 10$000. Walks, however, may be taken 
 to many pretty spots. A few steps from the Square is a charm- 
 ing outlook over city and bay. At the farther side of the 
 Square begins the Tijuca forest, and following the road one 
 soon reaches (perhaps ten minutes) a picturesque little cas- 
 cade. This road may be pursued on foot or horseback in 3 
 or 4 hours to the top of the mountain; alt. 8300 feet, from 
 which is the superior view above mentioned. Other pretty 
 spots to be visited in a drive of two or three hours are the 
 Grotto of Paul and Virginia, the Grand Cascade, the Chinese 
 Viciv, the Emperor's Tahle, the Excelsior, the Solidao, etc. 
 The Furnas at a distance of two miles is a fantastic arrange- 
 ment of rocks and boulders, where an interesting garden has 
 been established. The road which passes the Vista Chineza 
 and the Emperor's Table leads down to the Botanical Garden 
 through the rua Dona Castorina. Best of all is to make a 
 day of it by automobile from the city, ascending the peak on 
 foot or horseback, visiting all the points of interest, and tak- 
 ing the glorious ride around by Gavea and the Botanical Gar- 
 dens on the return. 
 
 Petropolis 
 
 Hotels. Europa, Rio de Janeiro (Gennan), Pensfio Central, ex- 
 pensive. Braganza Hotel, Meyer's Pension, moderate. 
 
 An excursion to Petropolis (return ticket 4$) should not be
 
 PETROPOLIS 339 
 
 omitted, a cit}^ of 25,000, the residence of the diplomats, 
 formerly the sumim.'r home of the Emperor. Onee it was 
 necessary to cross the bay to ]\Iaua to take the train; the road 
 from this point to the foot of the mountains, opened in 1856, 
 is the oldest in Brazil. While the steamboat ride was agree- 
 able, it is more convenient to take the train at the Leopoklina 
 Railway Station in the city, rather far out, indeed ; and at 
 least three-quarters of an hour should be allowed to reach it. 
 Almost, in spite of a sharp run, I lost my train, which my 
 companion did quite. After some miles over the plain, the 
 rack and pinion system is employed for the climb, almost to 
 the city; when ordinary motors are again used. The ascent 
 is delightful, with an ever charming outlook, better perhaps 
 on the right, but there should be observation cars in order to 
 look both ways at once. The sea is occasionally visible, oftener 
 only the luxuriant vegetation, trailing vines, feathery ferns, 
 brilliant blossoms, great trees, splendid rocks, and mountain 
 streams. An occasional factory is rather a sui*prise, but with 
 all this water power, why not? This Serra da Estrella is a 
 part of the Organ ]\Its. and of the Serra do Mar or Coast 
 Range of Brazil. Among the hills around, orchid hunters 
 find many treasures. Petropolis, in the social season from 
 December to ^lay, is a resort of wealth and fashion, a scene 
 of gayety, the many beautiful homes tilled with guests. 
 Founded in 1845 as an agricultural colony by 2000 Germans, 
 it became the headquarters of the Dii)lomatic Corps on ac- 
 count of the yellow' fever epidemics at Rio. The residence of 
 twenty foreign dii)lomats lias made the place important for its 
 size. Now that tlie sanitary conditions of Rio are of the very 
 best it is possible that the diplomats nuiy resume residence 
 in the capital below. A pretty and unusual feature of 
 l*etropolis is the stream flowing in several of the principal 
 streets, crossed by graceful bridges of wood or of iron, with 
 stone embankments partially vine-clad, and beautiful over- 
 hanging trees. There are delightful drives, both in the town 
 and in the mountainous region abnut. The wide streets of 
 the town, often fringed with iiiagMolias, are borderi'd by many 
 handsome residences amid lawns and gardens with ricli trop- 
 ical verdure. A broii/.e monument to Pedro II was dedicated 
 February, 1!>11. The American Embas-sy is housed in a tine
 
 340 THE SOCJTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 old mansion on beautiful grounds. The former summer resi- 
 dence of Dom Pedro 11, property of the Countess d'Eu, is 
 now a College of St. Vincent de Paul. The city has unusual 
 educational advantages and many commercial enterprises. 
 There is much social gayety in the season, but during the 
 months of the rainy weather the fashionables depart. The 
 City Hall is noted as the best in the state. 
 
 Another city on the mountains, of slightly greater elevation, 
 is Nova Frihurgo, three hours from Nictherdy. With an 
 elevation of about 3000 feet it enjoys a perfect climate. The 
 oldest immigrant colony in Brazil, it was founded by 1700 
 Swiss in 1819. This also is a famous summer resort and is 
 the center of a productive coffee district. 
 
 Another interesting mountain city is Therezopolis, also 3000 
 feet above the sea, commanding delightful views of the ravines 
 and cascades of the Organ ]\Its. and of the beautiful bay far 
 below. 
 
 An excursion to Kictlieroy, the capital of the State of Rio 
 de Janeiro, should not be omitted. It is easily made from the 
 Caes Pharoux, by ferry every half-hour. With a population 
 of 35,000, it is a nice quiet town, with well paved streets and 
 pretty squares. From the ferry landing electric cars may 
 be taken to the charming beaches of lea rah y and Sacco de Sao 
 Francisco, the latter with a beach rivaling Trouville; the ride 
 around by one of the promontories is thoroughly delightful. 
 The return may be made through the town of Nictheroy, 
 which has some handsome public buildings. 
 
 Equally if not more desirable is a sail into the inner har- 
 bor. From Caes Pharoux boats go four times daily to the 
 Island Paqueta, also to the Governador; (fare to either 500 
 reis each way). The former island is especially picturesque, 
 with charming embowered chalets. On Sunday afternoons, & 
 three hours' sail may be taken; fare 1$500.
 
 UXITED STATES EMBASSY, rETUOFuUd 
 
 STIIEET WnU UIVKK
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 NORTHERN BRAZIL— no:\rEWARD 
 
 The large majority of tourists will embark at Rio on one 
 of the fine large steamers of the Lamport and Holt Line for 
 New York. Return may also be made by way of England 
 on a Royal ]\Iail l)oat. A few maj' desire a more extended 
 acquaintance with Brazil. Some facts are thcrt'foi-e in-esciited 
 in regard to other States of this immense Republic and the 
 facilities for visiting them. 
 
 Minas Geraes. One inclined to journey into the interior, to 
 the rich gold and diamond region in the State of Minus Gcruis, 
 may go by the Central Railway 400 miles north to the 
 capital of i\Iinas, Bcllo Ilorizonte, a made-to-order city, 
 not twenty years of age, but with a population of 30,000, 
 already a fine town for its size. "While this State has no sea- 
 board, no rul)ber, and no city of 50,000 inhal)itants, it has a 
 larger population than any other State of Brazil and than 
 most of the countries of South America. This is due to its 
 good climate and excellent waters, as well as to its rich 
 resources. Tlie author Dias says: "In this State what 
 doesn't hi(h' gold coiilains ii'oii ; what does not contain coal 
 spreads diamonds." llcir for a century 80,000 men toiled 
 to supply gold to the kings of Portugal. Di.scovered in 1 (!!):{, 
 the output of the gold mines at the middle of the eighteentli 
 century was at its height. Five Ihoiisaiid pounds weight is 
 said to have l)een panned in one year in the area of one sijuarc 
 mile; in another place 100 j)oiiii(ls in one night; 8G0.000 
 pounds weight were registei-ed in Ivio in 17!)2. Tiie entire out- 
 put has l)een al)oul one billion dollars. In the nineteenth 
 centuiy less was piodiiced on account of a heavy lax, new 
 methods, and uncnlauity as to i)r()p<'rty rights and mniing 
 laws. At pi-eseiit there is a revival and a good ()\itlo(>k. The 
 oldest producing gold mine in the world is said to be the 
 
 a41
 
 342 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Morro Vellio, between Ouro Preto and Bello Horlzonte, yield- 
 ing one ounce to the ton and 80,000 ounces a year. 
 
 The diamond mines of Jefiuitinhonha Valley, famous for 
 two centuries, were discovered in 1729. The Regent diamond, 
 weifihing nearly an ounce, found by three convicts in 1791, 
 secured their pardon. The Estrella do Sul, now belonging 
 to the Rajah of Baroda, picked up by a slave who gave it for 
 his freedom, was the highest ransom ever paid for liberty. 
 Weighing uncut 250 carats, about half that when cut, it is 
 worth $15,000,000. The center of the industry is the town 
 Diamantina (population 10,000), 600 miles from Rio. Black 
 diamonds are found, also amethysts, tourmaline, topaz, aqua- 
 marines, garnets, chrysolites, etc., in many places. 
 
 Ouro Preto, the center of the manganese industry, yields 
 annually 250,000 tons of 55 per cent ore. Iron, found in 
 every part of Minas, for lack of fuel, is not exploited. Plat- 
 inum has been found and there is a great variety of granite 
 and marble, agates, onyx, and rock crystal, mica, graphite, 
 cinnabar, and asbestos. Ouro Preto, the former capital, has 
 a mining school, organized in 1903, said to be one of the best 
 in the world, with instruction free ; the museum contains a rare 
 collection. The State is thought to have a future rivaling 
 that of Australia and Kimberley. 
 
 The old capital, of which Dias says: "In six squares 
 everything is in the horizontal plan, but the 52 streets and 
 lanes go through tortuous and accidented places as if they 
 were acrobats," was at length deemed unsuitable; the State 
 was investigated for a new one ; the site of a hamlet in a beau- 
 tiful valley was chosen, and a branch line was built 10 miles 
 from the Central Railway. In 1894 private houses began 
 to be erected. BcUo Horizon te has fine wide streets, with 
 arborization said to be the most artistic of any South Amer- 
 ican city. It has water supply, sewerage, illumination, and 
 electric tramways, of the best type, a Government Palace 
 which cost half a million, the finest of the State buildings of 
 Brazil, the Department of the Interior, of Finance, and of 
 Agriculture, each with handsome buildings, also the City Hos- 
 pital. A small river with pretty cascades running through 
 the valley forms the vertebra of a beautiful park, which with 
 great trees, shrubs, and vines, a broad driveway, and pic-
 
 NORTHERN BRAZIL 343 
 
 turesque paths rivals in extent and natural beauty all others 
 in Brazil. 
 
 An Agricultural School with a model farm is an important 
 educational feature on aeeount of the great fertility of the 
 region. Sugar cane, corn, rice, bananas, tobacco, fruits, cot- 
 ton, cereals, and many other things are here cultivated, with 
 coffee as the chief product, the State being second to Sao Paulo 
 in its culture. A concession was made to a North American 
 Company for growing hemp and other fibres, one million trees 
 to be planted within four years. Viticulture and the silk 
 worm industry are suitable to the region. Vast pasture lands 
 support great herds of cattle, nearly 300,000,000 head being 
 exported in a single year. The dairy produce of butter, 
 cheese, and milk, is very important, and eggs also. It is thus 
 evident that Brazil possesses other industries beside rul)ber 
 and cotYee, and rej^ions with agreeable climate. The San Fran- 
 cisco River Mowing north through this section, while navigable 
 at intervals, has a series of cascades, among the most pic- 
 turesque in the world. Also there are famous mineral springs 
 at Caxambu, altitude 3000 ft., with waters resembling those of 
 Baden and Spa, with chalets, hotels, and sanatoria, in sum- 
 mer crowded with guests; and other springs in various other 
 resorts. 
 
 The next Coast State to Rio is Espirifo Sanlo, though snudl, 
 the third coffee producer, raising also sugar cane, rice, and 
 splendid tropical woods; a good climate up on the plateau. 
 The capital and seajiort, Victoria (20,000 pop.), has an excel- 
 lent harbor, now being improved with docks, warehouses, etc., 
 soon to be a port of call for large steamers. The next State, 
 Bahia, will be mentioned later in the chapter. 
 
 Following Bahia is Scrgipe, smallest of the States (a little 
 larger than Maryland), 1;1,0()0 s<|uart' miles, but the most 
 thickly settled. Another small State is Alagoas; then comes 
 the large and imjiortant Pcrnamhuco, its capital so called, but 
 more properly Recife; with its population of 150.000, the 
 fourth city of Brazil, it is of great commercial importance. 
 The name Reeife arises from a substantial reef off shore form- 
 ing a line natural breakwater, to which the Dutch made .some 
 artificial addition, also erecting at its extremity a strong light- 
 house tower, the light visible for 20 miles. The city, built on
 
 344 THE HOUTII AMP]RICAN TOUR 
 
 marshy ground, by quays and filling in redeemed from the 
 sea, from its canals and peninsulas is called the Brazilian 
 Venice. Founded in 1536 by Duarte Coelho, it was in the 
 seventeenth century occupied many years by the Dutch, who 
 were finally expelled in 1654 by the patriotic Portuguese. 
 From the pretty bridges are many lovely panoramas. Several 
 fine markets, two theaters, a handsome Congress Ilall, and the 
 Governor's Palace on the foundations of that of the Prince of 
 Nassau facing the Praca da Republica are noteworthy. Two 
 handsome churches are those of Nossa Senhora da Penha of 
 the Corinthian order of architecture and the Boa Vista. The 
 chief expoi'ts are cotton and sugar; the imports exceed those 
 of any Brazilian city except Rio. 
 
 The next State on the north is Parahyha, reputed to 
 have vast mineral wealth of coal, iron, gold, precious stones, 
 etc., as yet lying tranquil in the soil. Then comes Bio Grande 
 do Norte, whose enormous saline deposits along the shore 
 partly compensate for its barren stretches of land and fre- 
 quent droughts. The following state, Ccard, is closely con- 
 nected with the rubber industry, for the reason that on account 
 of the barren sands along the coast, and the inland droughts 
 the male portion of the inhabitants is in large numbers driven 
 to the rubber districts of Amazonas. Seasons not visited by 
 drought are characterized by immense crops and bountiful 
 dairy products. Fortaleza, the capital, with over 50,000 
 inhabitants, among other nice buildings possesses a great pub- 
 lic market of cast-iron. Waterworks, planned on a large scale 
 to alleviate the effects of the droughts, will be highly bene- 
 ficial. 
 
 The adjoining state of Piauliy, with similar low and melan- 
 choly shores, also suffers from lack of rain. A town is spoken 
 of as ''having taken the name of a river that was so poor it 
 ought not to have one to give away." Maranliao, the last 
 state before reaching Para and the Amazon, with a large popu- 
 lation of negroes, like Baliia, and of Indians in their primitive 
 condition, has as its capital Sao Luiz, a city founded by the 
 French, and, like Bahia, noted for its literary taste and cul- 
 ture. An indication of this is that the squares, in other cities 
 named after military events and heroes, are here called after 
 poets and other writers.
 
 NORTHERN BRAZIL 345 
 
 Para and the Amazon 
 
 The great Amazon River, Ave all know, is tlie largest in 
 the world, yet its immensity is hardly realized. In size of 
 basin and volume of water it far exceeds the Mississippi. 
 P'or a distance of 180 miles from shore the Atlantie is I'l-fsh- 
 ened by its waters, whieh vaiy in depth in the estuary from 
 DO to 900 feet. Among its 1100 tributaries, great and small, 
 there are seven more than 1000 miles long, not counting the 
 ]\Iaranon and Ueayali, by which it is formed. One, the -Ma- 
 deira River, has a length of 3000 miles. In the great region 
 which it drains there are 1200 varieties of bii'ds and SOOO 
 animals not found elsewhere, to say nothing of the pl.mts. 
 The soil is so rich that corn is returned 800 fold. 
 
 The best time to visit the Upper Amazon is in Ihr tli\er 
 season, fi'om June to the middle of October, or in Jainiai-y; 
 the worst is from February to June. The climate of this 
 section is attractive only to those who enjoy heat and rain ; 
 the heat is not excessive, but contiiuious; the rain is often 
 200 inches annually. Still the climate is called fairly healthy 
 for the most part, with small sections very bad. 
 
 Para, the most important in wealth, i)()pulMti'()n, and com- 
 merce of the northern States of Brazil, is a name familiar to 
 all, to many simply as rnblier, to others rather as a city than 
 a State: iiiipi-oi)erly so indeed, as tlu' city by its residents is 
 feniied Belem. Founded at the month of the Amazon in 
 January, 1616, it is youngei- than the other important coMst 
 cities, while the State, forineily a pait of Maranhao, is little 
 more than a century old. Tlie date of .Inly 31. ISdT. when 
 the great river, pi-eviously closed to all liut Bia/ilian steam- 
 ers, was opened to the na\igatioii ol" the world, is that of the 
 beginning of l^elem's prosperity aiul wondei-ful growth. To- 
 day a city of ir)(),()()(l, it lies on the e<lge of a traiKpiil lairoon 
 called (Juaraja l'>ay, foi-iiied by the Tai-a Kiver, one of the 
 several mouths of the great Amazon. Along the city front is 
 a forest of masts and smokestacks, and vessels of every size 
 and character jiass to and fro. Fine docks and warehouses 
 have recently been constructed, the work, bcirnn in 1!MI7. to be 
 continued by tlic Toit of Para Co., acording to the ropiire- 
 mcnts which are rapiiliy increasing, since facilities must ulti-
 
 346 T1IJ<] SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 iiiately be provided for a traffic from an area of the more than 
 three million square miles embraced in the Amazon Valley. 
 A channel 30 feet deep leading from the outer river to the 
 port is marked by 26 modern buoys, illumined by acetylene 
 gas, with lights of 120-candle power intensified by a lens. 
 The port works are equal to the best at Liverpool and Ham- 
 burg, having three-quarters of a mile of quay wall with water 
 30 feet deep for ocean steamers, 722 feet of wall with 12 feet 
 of water for river steamers, and 1500 feet more for smaller 
 boats with 9 feet 6 inches of water. The wall of huge blocks 
 of concrete is of the most substantial character. On a road- 
 way 60 feet wide are electric cranes and railways, back of 
 which are large Avarehouses. Beyond these is a gi'anite-paved 
 boulevard, then the city itself, with the Custom House, mar- 
 ket, banking houses, stores, and all forms of commercial ac- 
 tivity. 
 
 On the large square, Frei C acta no Brandao, in the center 
 of which is a statue of the bishop after wliom the square is 
 named, the founder of the first hospital in the city, stands the 
 Cathedral erected in 1710, elegant and harmonious, of rather 
 severe exterior, but within brilliantly decorated in high colors. 
 On the bay side of this square are the ruins of an old fort 
 called Castello, preserved for historic interest. The principal 
 plaza is the Independencia, adorned with flower beds, with 
 lawns, busbies, and trees; but the people here loving nature 
 and flowers, no one ever steps on the lawns or plucks a blos- 
 som, which indeed is the case in the otlier cities of Latin 
 America. In the center of the square is a monument to 
 General Gurjao, a superb bronze statue of a soldier who died 
 fighting, while he exclaimed, "See how a Brazilian General 
 dies!" At the side of the plaza, Parque Affonso Penna, is 
 the Government Palace erected in 1776, and near by the blue 
 tinted City Hall of colonial days, containing in the main hall 
 a beautiful painting of the death of the great musician, Carlos 
 Gomez, who died here. 
 
 In the square, Visconde de Bio Branco, on a marble base 
 is the most artistic monument of the city, a bronze statue of 
 the Brazilian patriot, Jose da Gama Malcher, with the figure 
 of a beautiful young girl below writing the name of the hero.
 
 PARA 347 
 
 Anolhei' garden, Baptista Cdiiipos, is a little paradise with 
 fountains, lakes, bridges, plants, etc. 
 
 A unique public recreation ground at the otlier end ol the 
 eity is a tract of primitive woods, called O liosqut , dense and 
 somber with great trees which as the city grew in that direc- 
 tion was with wonderful foresiglit preserved by the ^luniei- 
 pality. Driveways were openc^l disclosing its poetic beauty, 
 greenhouses, cascades, fountains and otlier embellisinuents 
 added, making it a resort of which the i)eoj)le ai-e i)roud. 
 
 The usual Praqa da Republica contains a beautiful marble 
 monument with bronze figures commemorating the proclama- 
 tion of the Republic. On this s(iu;ire, the heart of the city, is 
 the Paz Theater of white marble, imposing and austere, of the 
 Corinthian order of architecture, with a tranquil grandeur 
 unlike any other in South America. The interior is dec- 
 orated with paintings by De Angelis sui-rounded by high gold 
 reliefs, contains a foyer with a beautiful inlaid lloor, and has 
 everything in lighting and mechanical, devices of the most 
 modern type. The Paz Hotel is near. 
 
 Notable churches are Santa Anna, built in 17G1, and Our 
 Ladij of the Canno, about the same date, and Our Ladji of 
 Nazareth, built in 1802, whei'e seamen esi)ecially bring offer- 
 ings, wax miniatures of boats and other objects of maritime 
 life, forming a curious museum of nautical art. 
 
 The greatest interest and admiration may be excited by 
 the Goeldi Museum, one of the most famous in South America, 
 and now under the direction of Dr. Jaccpies Iluber. The 
 building is surrounded by fine specimens of the Amazonian 
 forests with the finest collection in the woi-ld of the Ilara 
 hrasiliensis, the best of the many varieties of rubber trees; 
 and the expei'imental gai'deii ])rol)ably contains every s|)ecies 
 of rubber known, with many other i)lants of eommereial value. 
 Of equal or greater interest are tlie arcluvological, ethnological, 
 and zoological (lei)ai"tments. Here are collections of pottery 
 of e.xtijict Indian ti-ibes iidiabitiiig this region at the time of 
 the Portuguese discovery, with funeral urns and pottery from 
 mounds of the Island of Mara.jo. "Weapons and utensils of 
 the Amazonian Indians are shown. The collection of Bra- 
 zilian fauna comprises a complete .series of Amazonian mon-
 
 348 THE SOUTH A.MHRICAX TOUR 
 
 keys, a great variety of birds, the lai-^fr mammals, as the 
 tapir, jjignar, etc., and insects. ]\Iany living creatures, 
 aquatic l)ir(ls, parrots, toucans of gorgeous plumage, alli- 
 gators, anacondas, boa constrictors, electric eels, and many 
 others, safely caged, enchain the attention. 
 
 The Lauro Sodre Institute for industrial and agricultural 
 training, a School of Commerce, a Fine Arts Academy, and 
 other establishments for education, for the sick, and the poor 
 are liberally provided. A fine new Market is not of small 
 importance. The broad, clean, well shaded streets are often 
 lined with beautiful villas and gardens; though but a degree 
 and a half from the equator the heat is not excessive, rarely 
 al)ove 90° Fahr. 
 
 Manaos. The visitor to Para, is likely to be on his way 
 up the Amazon to Manaos or Iquitos ; if a bit of an explorer, 
 perchance to Bolivia by the neAvly prae icable Madeira and 
 ^lamore route, or to the rubber regions in any one of five 
 countries. The city of Para is about 80 miles from the pilot 
 station Salinas ; and a further journey of 2-4 hours, nearly 200 
 miles, is required, across a bay, then for nine hours through 
 a narrow channel, before one really enters the broad stream 
 of the great Amazon. Along the narrows the landscape is 
 charming ; clearings with huts and children are frequent ; 
 canoes with fishermen, and small steamers calling at the bar- 
 racas (plantations) for rubber or to bring provisions are nu- 
 merous. The luxuriant vegetation is fascinating. But from 
 the remoteness of the shores, on the immense wide river the 
 four or five days to Manaos may be somewhat monotonous. 
 The greater will be the surprise of the uninformed traveler 
 when after 900 miles through the enormous wilderness of 
 forest he arrives at this new city, with a population of 80,000, 
 truly a wonder of wonders. Its location is near the junction 
 of the Rio Negro with the Amazon ; one writer says on a large 
 bay, another that it is on the left bank of the Negro eight 
 miles from the Amazon. At all events it has a safe and quiet 
 harbor with excellent port works arranged to fit the rise and 
 fall of the river, about 50 feet. A floating roadway extends 
 into the river, a platform and pontoons supporting ware- 
 houses; and ocean steamships come alongside. Hills have 
 been lowered, shallow places filled in, and waterworks and
 
 NORTHERN P>RAZIL 349 
 
 drainage systems supplied ; so that a remarkable eity indeed 
 is here in the forest. It is said to be the best lighted eity in 
 IJijizil. Tile Municipal street, 100 feet wide, is lined with 
 handsome buildings. The Eduardo Kibciro avenue in the aft- 
 ( rnoon and evening is thronged with people of wealth and 
 fjisliion. The Amazonas Theater, on this avenue and S. Se- 
 Ijaiitiao Scjuare, is of astonishing magniMeenee, having eost 
 $2,000,000; its beautiful colored dome is a conspicuous feature 
 from the harbor. The interior compares with the splendid ex- 
 terior, allegorical paintings by De Angelis, the celebrated Ital- 
 ian artist, ornamenting the ceilings of foyer and auditorium. 
 Tile Palace of Justice, a white marble building in Roman style, 
 with a bronze and marble staircase, is also imposing. The 
 Cathedral is a vast temide of simi>le areliitecture. There are 
 excellent school buildings, a public libi-ary, a museum with 
 curious Amazonian specimens, a spacious market cool and 
 well ventilated, and a public garden with music from six till 
 midnight. Electric fans are everywhere in evidence, ice here 
 manufai'tured is supplie*] in abundance, and exeellent sanita- 
 tion makes the cajntal surprisingly free from sickness. 
 
 Iquitos. By ocean steamers, the Booth Line from New York 
 and from London, the journey may be pursued up the Amazon 
 as far as Irjuitos in Peru, a city of 15,000 population, where 
 the Amazon, over 2000 miles from its mouth, still has a width 
 of nearly three miles and an average depth of 2") feet, twice 
 that in the rainy season. The city is a few leagues below the 
 junction of the Mai-nnon and the Fcayali, by which the Ama- 
 zon is f()i'me(L l(|uitos is (piite cosmopolitan with i-cpreseiita- 
 tives from various Euro|iean and American nation^. It has 
 many warehou.ses, and commercial and other mocK'rn buildings 
 of brick and iron. One hundred and fifty feet above the river 
 and sui-rounded by dense forests, the climate is not so bad 
 as it might be, though the temperature averages ^'y° to JK)" 
 all tlic yc;ir around : as a rule the jilace is not unhealthy. 
 
 Rubber is the principal occasion for its being and growth, 
 and its commei-ee is rapidly increasing. In all directions lie 
 the rubber forests, or more accurately the forests which eon- 
 tain rubber trees. For these do not grow conveniently in 
 groves, except lure and there occasionally a few tre«'s, but 
 scattered singly in the damp forest, perhaps 100 or InO trees
 
 350 THE SOUTH AMKRICAN TOUR 
 
 in ail cstrada or section oi' about lUU acres, an area whicli a 
 single man can take care of. The estrada is really the path 
 leading from one tree to another. The man, called the serin- 
 gueiro, sets out early in the morning with hatchet and tin cups 
 or basins ; he makes on each tree several incisions, 4 to 6 inches 
 apart around the tree. By the time the round of 3 or 4 miles 
 is finished it is time for lunch ; then the collection may begin,, 
 the tins containing the fluid called latex are emptied into a 
 pail, eight or ten quarts in all, producing about as many 
 pounds of rubber. This is finished by noon, after which the 
 latex must be smoked over a wood fire ; it is coagulated on 
 a sort of ladle twirled over the smoke. Fresh coats are added 
 when one is dry until a holaclia or biscuit is formed of from 
 5 to 100 lbs. The man who does this work may be a native 
 Indian or a resident of Ceara or elsewhere. He works for a 
 contractor who may employ several hundred. Many atrocities 
 have been committed by these contractors, who have com- 
 pelled the defenseless Indians to work for them without pay 
 and have inflicted cruelties, torture, and murder upon them 
 and their families, especially in the Putomayo district, where 
 an English Company has been engaged. Through recent 
 investigations the cruelties have been terminated for the mo- 
 ment; but such is the greed and inhumanity of some pro- 
 fessedly civilized men that close watch must be kept by hu- 
 mane officials to prevent further abuses and the extermination 
 of harmless savages. 
 
 The rubber is collected in this way from trees called jche 
 or hevea, but there are many varieties of trees which produce 
 rubber of varying excellence. A kind of tree called the 
 caucho which grows on higher land is cut down by the 
 cauchero and the entire latex is extracted, averaging about 
 50 lbs. to a tree; this is a quality of less value. Brazil has 
 a heavy export tax on rubber, Bolivia about half as much, 
 while Peru exacts less than a quarter. 
 
 The terrors, perils, and the fascination (to some few) of the 
 immense and aw^ful forest are in many books described. Few 
 are the explorers who, aided by many hands wielding ma- 
 chetes, have penetrated far into the jungle from the flowing 
 river roads. For their adventures I have no space. Yet in 
 these days of doughty deeds by valiant women, a far more
 
 NORTHERN BRAZIL 351 
 
 wonderful exploit by one Avho doubtless had no wish to usurp 
 man's functions as an explorer may here be chronich-d. Long, 
 long ago, in 1769, when the forests were untroddi-n even by 
 the casual rubber gatherer, ]\Iadame Godin, to join her hus- 
 band in Guiana, left Riobamba in Ecuador with two brothers, 
 a nephew, a physician, three women domestics, a negro servant, 
 and thirty Indians. Having passed over the great mountain 
 range they embarked on a stream, one of the many affluents of 
 the Amazon, to meet with repeated disasters. Their boat 
 was upset, their supplies and baggage were lost. The Indians 
 deserted. A raft being made, tliis also foundered. Proceed- 
 ing on foot, lost in the forest they wandered until, exhausted 
 with starvation and effort, they lay down to die. This all the 
 rest did, l)ut after two days by her dead companions. Madame 
 Godin arose. Shoeless, her clothing nearly gone, witli no food 
 save roots and herbs she struggled on amid the terrors of the 
 jungle till after nine days she met two so-called savages. 
 These treated her kindly, ministering to her needs till she was 
 able to proceed, then conducted her to a white settlement far- 
 ther down. As a white-haired woman she ultinuitely reached 
 Para and joined her husband, a notaljle ilhistration of the 
 xccahcr sex. 
 
 The Madeira Mamore Railway. Only the unusually enter- 
 prising tourist, the explorer, or the business man will be likely 
 to investigate this new railway, but all may like to know a 
 little about it. The ^Madeira, the largest tributary of the 
 Amazon, comes in from tlie south a little below ^lanaos, and 
 is the outlet and means of access to a large portion of the 
 state of iMatto Grosso in Brazil and of the country of Bolivia 
 as well. Continuous river navigation has, however, been im- 
 possible on account of a series of 10 falls and rapids on the 
 IMadeira and >\Iamore rivers within a distance of 200 miles, 
 thus preventing earlier development of a section rich not only 
 in rubber, but in minerals, and in agricultural and stock-rais- 
 ing possil)ilities. About 570 miles up the Madeira River is 
 the new city of Porto Velho, where the railway l)egins, now 
 completed for a distance of 202 miles to Guajara Mirim on 
 the Mamore, about due south. Tiius has been accomplished a 
 work which in 1H60 was planned by an American, Col. George 
 Earl Church, under a concession from Brazil and Bolivia.
 
 352 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 In 1871 he turned tlie first sod of the railway, but financial 
 and other difficulties soon caused the suspension of operations. 
 In 1878 another elfort was made, also to meet disaster. To-day 
 the better know^ledge of the causes of tropical diseases and of 
 methods of sanitation has caused the task to be triumphantly 
 concluded. Construction work, begun in August, 1907, was 
 carried on with such effect that in spite of many difficulties 
 the final section of the road was opened for traffic July 15, 
 1912. As yet there is no fast express, two days being required 
 for the journey. Porto Velho, the northern terminus of the 
 road, on the right bank of the Madeira, is a town of 1500 
 people, "vvith an ice plant making six tons a day, piped water 
 supply of two kinds, one for internal use, and with wireless 
 telegraphic communication with Manaos, hence close relations 
 with the rest of the world. To this port ocean steamers may 
 come during part of the year, November to June, and large 
 river steamers at any time. The residence part of the city is 
 on a hill a little back. Regular trains three times a week 
 leave at 8 a. m. The greater part of the journey is through 
 the jungle in a cut 100 feet wide, though in places the river 
 is visible, at Santo Antonio a picturesque view including the 
 first cascades. Near Caldeiro Station is one of the worst places 
 on the river, called the Devil's Caldron, invisible, however, 
 from the track. South of IMutum are 25 miles of straight 
 track passing through an immense rubber concession to the 
 company. At Abuna, 218 kms., where the train is due at 5.30 
 p. m., halt is made for the night close to the river. Leaving 
 Abuna at 7.30 the next morning the arrival at the terminus 
 should be at 3.15 p. m. Villa oMurtinho, 93 kms. south of 
 Abuna, is just opposite the town of Villa Bella in Bolivia, 
 and the junction of the Beni and Mamore, tlje Bolivian city 
 being between the two rivers; the Mamore from here south 
 forms the boundary between the two countries. At the ter- 
 minal, Guajara Mirim, there is another town of the same 
 name on the opposite shore in Bolivia, from which a railroad 
 is now being constructed to Riberalta, an important town of 
 Bolivia, near the edge of the Amazonian forest and the Bo- 
 livian cattle country. For the development of northern 
 Bolivia which is drained by the Beni River, this railway will 
 be a great motive power, as also for Matto Grosso of Brazil.
 
 NORTH HI J. \ BRAZIL 353 
 
 An enormous region of rubber jiud of iiumy other possibilities 
 is hereby rendered accessible, as this great aeeoinplishiiieiit is 
 to be supplemented in Bolivia by other important connections. 
 The formal inauguration of the road already long in use was 
 I)osti)oiied on account of the desire of the Pi-esident of lira/.il 
 to assist in person at the ceremonies. 
 
 It is an item of interest that the head waters of the Gua- 
 pore River, a brancli of the ^Madeira, are so close to those of 
 the stream Aguapehy, tributary to the Jauru and Paraguay 
 rivers, that they could be connected by a canal less than 1000 
 feet long. Years ago the trip across from the Amazon waters 
 to the Paraguay-Parana basin was made in a canoe by hardy 
 Portuguese explorers following this route, whieh in the years 
 to come may develop into a fre(iuented waterway. 
 
 Any one wishing to make the journey from Manaos up tiie 
 ]\Iadeira to the railway is obliged to pay a tax of 9 milreis, in 
 addition to a deposit of 50$ for hospital or funeral expenses 
 in case he should contract yellow fever or other serious ail, 
 but the i'iO.'j; ai-e refunded on his safe return. 
 
 On the Way Home. Vvw Mill sail away from the match- 
 less liarbor and city of Rio without keen regret and the de- 
 termination to revisit them at the eai'liest ])ossiljle moment, 
 thougli with these once lost to view he may look eagerly for- 
 ward to the conclusion of the homeward voyage. This at pres- 
 ent by the Lamport and Holt steamers occupies 16 or l'^ 
 days, which are happily spent on their large and luxurious 
 vessels, the several calls en route relieving any p()ssil)le mo- 
 notony. The weather is generally delightful, two weeks of 
 summer, not too hot, followed by one never knows what, for 
 the two or three days before reaching New York. 
 
 A few may prefer to take ship to a j^tiropcan jxirt and sjx-nil 
 some time on the other side before returning home, but there 
 is no longer a necessity for going tliat way in order to have a 
 comfortable voyage. Although the steamers of the English 
 Line are a trifle faster, even with the best connection at 
 Southampton or Liverpool the time to Ni-w York is longer. 
 
 Bahia. About 60 hours from Hio on the third morning (tf 
 the return voyage, the ship is likely to l)e at anchor in tlie 
 harbor of liahid. once the capital of Hra/.il. and now with a 
 population of ;ilO,000 its third city. It is Tl'O miles from its
 
 354 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ancient rival. Founded in 1549 by Thom^ de Souza this is the 
 oldest of all the Br-azilian cities and has ever been a place not 
 only of commercial importance but of artistic and literary 
 culture and of sumptuous religious sanctuaries. Until 1762 
 it was the seat of colonial power. The location of the city on 
 the east side of a deep and well protected gulf is admirable; 
 its beauty would excite enthusiasm if it were seen before 
 Rio instead of afterwards. The name of this city is really 
 Sao Salvador, while the bay is Bahia de Todos os Santos, Bay 
 of All Saints, the name Bahia of the State having, as in the 
 case of Pernambuco and Para, by foreigners been transferred 
 to that of its capital city. Its appearance is indeed striking, 
 with its upper and lower town, the former crowning a high 
 and almost perpendicular blutf, the latter, looking almost as if 
 it had been pushed over the edge, occupying a narrow strip 
 along the water front, both sections charmingly variegated by 
 dense tropical foliage. Conspicuous from a distance are the 
 great elevators connecting the upper and lower town and many 
 large buildings, towers, and churches. 
 
 In a small boat one may be rowed a mile from the anchorage 
 to the landing, then passing to Ribeira street, may follow this 
 to an elevator at the right or by a steep and narrow street on 
 the face of the bluff may climb to the top. By the elevator, 
 imported from the United States, 15 or 20 may be lifted to 
 the edge of a pretty square above, the Praga da Constituigdo. 
 At the right is the site of the ancient Government Building, 
 spoiled by the Dutch in 1636, later repaired, and recently re- 
 built, with a new four-faced clock tower added ; but in Janu- 
 ary, 1912, it was riddled by shots from Brazilian w^arships on 
 account of an insurrection. In 1915 it was again being re- 
 stored. A large attractive building at the rear of this square, 
 which formerly was the residence of the Portuguese Gov- 
 ernors and the Presidents of the Province, has been rebuilt 
 from the foundations and is now the ^Municipal Building. 
 The American Consulate, formerly on this square, is now on 
 the IMain street (No. 27) of the lower town. Narrow lanes 
 of three centuries gone, lead from here in several directions; 
 but some of them are traversed by electric cars which fre- 
 quently leave the Plaza for diverse sections. A pleasant sub-
 
 PKAJA DE FREI CAETAMi lii;\M'.\", 1' M-^
 
 BAHIA 355 
 
 urban ride is by a car marked Barra thron^di some of the 
 fine residence streets, by the side of beautiful parks, to the 
 lighthouse on the site of an old fort on Cape Barra at the en- 
 trance to the bay. There is a fine view from the lighthouse 
 top, well worth the elind). Kctuniing to the ('aini)o (Jrande, 
 on which is a little English (Muireh and the English Club, 
 one may there change cars for the fishing village and suburb 
 of Rio Vermelho. 
 
 The narrow Chili street runs from the Pra<;a da Const i- 
 tui<;ao to the Castro Alvcs Square, 150 h'vt above the bay, with 
 a Statue of Columbus surmounting a marble fountain in the 
 garden. On one side is the San Joao Theater. Here also are 
 the Paris and the Sul Americano Hotels, and the buildini; of 
 the journal, the Diario da Bahia. Following from liere Sao 
 Bento street we may come to the ri<dade Square with a pretty 
 garden, and a marble fountain with a symbolic statue of an 
 Indian stepping on a serpent. On one side of the square is 
 the I'iednde Church, on another the Senate House, of Italian 
 style of architecture. Passing the Police Headquarters, a 
 pretty street, Pedro Luiz, with modern buildings, leads to the 
 Passeio Publico, a delightful resting place, the largest and 
 most popular in the city, shaded by mango trees, containing 
 an obelisk of Egyptian marble, commemorating, one says, the 
 arrival of King Joao VI in Brazil, another the opening of 
 Brazilian ports to foreign commerce in 1808. At one side, on 
 the AflHictos S(|uare. the thick walls of an old fortress have 
 been remodeled into police barracks. A steep street leads 
 down from the Passeio Publico to a colonial fortification. llie 
 (himboa Fortress at the edge of the water. 
 
 The Largo Du<iue dc Caxias contains in a pretty garden an 
 itiiliosing juoinunent of Carrara marble and Ijronze, 100 feet 
 in height, named the Dois de Julho, the date of the evacuation 
 of the State by the Portugiu*se trooi)s in 1S24, which sealed 
 its independence. At the toj) of the tall Corinthian Colnmii 
 stands the tradition;'! Indian with foot on a dragon, signify- 
 ing the trium|)li over desi)otism. Colossal ligures of bronze 
 represent the great rivers of Brazil, with other accessories 
 making this one of the finest monuments in Brazil. A n<>tal)le 
 peculiarity of the city is that the monuments are of .synd)olie 
 character and not of individuals, no busts or .statues of lieroes
 
 356 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 save one to the English philanthropist, Dr. Paterson, a physi- 
 cian whose good works were many. In the Praca do Riachu- 
 elo, which is overlooked by the handsome edifice of the Com- 
 mercial Association, another beautiful monument, a marble 
 pillar surmounted by a flying Victory, commemorates the tri- 
 umph of Brazil over Paraguay in the terrible war of 1864- 
 70. 
 
 Among a number of interesting churches is the San Fran- 
 cisco, built in 1713 with elaborate and gorgeous interior deco- 
 rations. The Collegio Church of the Jesuits, now the Cathe- 
 dral, built of stone prior to 1572, on the Largo Quinze de 
 Novembro, has an imposing interior, the details of its ornamen- 
 tation, from the design of the main altar to the work in the 
 ceiling, making it perhaps the most curious in Brazil. A 
 Benedictine Church, San Sehastido, on a central eminence, is 
 peculiar in being all white inside and out, the main altar and 
 the Saints ' images of Carrara marble, while the two towers and 
 the dome, the highest spot in the city, are white also. Oldest 
 of all in Bahia is the Church Nossa Senhora da Ajuda. 
 
 Bahia boasts of one of the best Medical Schools in South 
 America, with a finer building than the School in Rio pos- 
 sesses; this on the Largo Quinze de Novembro. It has also a 
 Law College and other excellent schools, one of the most val- 
 uable, a Lyceum of Arts and Trades founded in 1872 with day 
 and night classes, workshops, and class rooms, and 2500 pupils 
 in attendance. A Public Library with 30,000 volumes, a Mu- 
 nicipal with 20,000, and still others are of good service to the 
 people. The Poorhouse is an attractive looking place and 
 there are excellent hospitals. 
 
 In the eastern suburbs are charming vistas ; and of homely 
 interest are the hundreds of colored women engaged in laun- 
 dry work along a little stream with the clothing spread out 
 upon the grass and bushes. No machine washed and dried 
 clothing there, but all done in good fresh air. 
 
 Bahia is the great cocoa port of Brazil, furnishing about 
 one-fifth of the world's supply; also a great tobacco port, 
 the State producing about as much as Cuba. One may ask 
 what does it not produce rather than what it does : coffee, to- 
 bacco, rubber, cotton, sugar, nuts, woods, etc., besides a wealth 
 of minerals of great diversity; the largest diamond carbonate
 
 NORTHERN BRAZIL 357 
 
 ever discovered was found here in 1895. It weighed 3150 
 carats and was divided in Paris into smaller stones. Here 
 only are found black diamonds, of great value for drills. 
 Gold, copper, and many of the precious stones exist in various 
 sections. Even the sand is exported, being worth $100 a ton : 
 some, at least, of a deposit found by an American engineer 
 along the shore, called monazite, rich in thorium silicate, used 
 chiefly for incandescent gas mantles. 
 
 The lower part of the city should not be ignored, for here 
 are the commercial houses, the markets, Custom House, arse- 
 nals. Post Office, factories, and many of the stores. Recently 
 it has been much improved, having now many good buildings, 
 well paved streets, and a pretty plaza. 
 
 On the boundary of this State are the Paulo Affonso Falls 
 of the San Francisco River, worth visiting if time permits; the 
 valley is one of the most fertile regions of the glol)e. A line 
 of comfortable steamers subsidized by the State, running to 
 Pernambueo, gives opportunity to change at Penedo. about 30 
 miles up tiie river, to a smaller boat, whieh aseends to Piran- 
 has, near the foot of the cataract, 150 miles farther, a two 
 days' journey. A railway runs from Piranhas to Jatoba. 71 
 miles, to navigation above the Falls. Pedras, the Falls station, 
 is about half way. Then a ride of two hours or so brings one 
 to the great canon. ^leu living near, for a .small fee, will act 
 as guides. There are various rapids and one high fall ; the 
 river first cominvssed by rock banks is divided into five nar- 
 row branches through roek clefts, four of which tumbling 
 down 15 or 20 feet become a mass of foam and rush down a 
 steep incline, with a roar audible for miles, in splenilid rapids. 
 The four branches soon unite, rushing on to the great Fall. tin- 
 Mai da Cachoeira, where all five take a grand leaj) of PKi feet, 
 which may best be surveyed lying prone on a flat rock 72 feet 
 above the Fall, too awe-insi)iring a sight to be enjoyed by 
 every one, but to tliose of steady nerve a magnificent si^'ctade. 
 A visit to the Pat's Cave may as well be omitted. 
 
 Unless one stays over a steamer in Haiiia, one may have but 
 a glimpse of the city's many attractions and of course none of 
 the unique, solitary, yet some day to be famous, waterfalls. 
 Five or six hours only on shore are 'generally permitted to the 
 tourist, tliough the steamer is likely to delay several more after
 
 358 TllK SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 the return on board. But it docs not do to take chances on 
 so imi)ortaiit a matter. 
 
 From Jialiia the sail is generally to Port au Spain, Trinidad, 
 where the hours will be a pleasure aften ten days on the broad 
 ocean. Once more you are in a land where you will hear 
 English "as she is spoken" in various ways by persons of va- 
 rious complexions. A drive past the Victoria Institute, the 
 Government House, and the market place to the reservoir, the 
 Botanical Garden, and to the beautiful Queen's Park Hotel 
 will be greatly enjoyed; and the opportunity for shopping in 
 the excellent stores or from the natives who bring wares to 
 the boat will be improved by some whose purses are not yet 
 empty. On the regular steamers, there is no opportunity to 
 visit the celebrated Pitch Lake some miles away, a lake with 
 an area of 114 acres, on the surface of which one may walk 
 if he moves along promptly. This is the main source of the 
 supply of asphalt used in the United States. 
 
 The next morning the steamer is at Bridgetown in Barbados, 
 a pleasant old town where some hours may be spent in a drive, 
 a stroll, or in shopping to buy a few curios or embroideries. 
 This is surely British soil, though 90 per cent of the inhabit- 
 ants are negroes. Near the landing is Trafalgar Square, with 
 a bronze statue of Nelson in the center, justly his due as it was 
 he who preserved Great Britain's West Indian possessions in 
 1805. Here are the government buildings and St. Michael's, 
 the Anglican church. A Carnegie Library and a Salvation 
 Army Building not far away may be reminders that we are 
 approaching home. The Woman's Self -Help Association, also 
 on the Square, invites and deserves patronage ; for Indian pot- 
 tery and other curios, lace, embroidery, and various edibles 
 may here be procured at modest prices. A house called ^Yil- 
 ton at the corner of Bay street and Chelsea road is of interest 
 as being in 1751 the temporary residence of George Washing- 
 ton, the companion of his elder brother Lawrence, who having 
 contracted consumption had come here in the hope of recover- 
 ing his health. Dying a year afterward, Lawrence bequeathed 
 his estate of IMount Vernon to his brother George. 
 
 Seven days later Sandy Hook is passed ; the Statue of Lib- 
 erty, the old and new sky-scrapers draw near. Every one is 
 glad to return, however delightful the journey. Some, if not
 
 HOME 359 
 
 all, of the passengers will in future have a littk- broader out- 
 look; regarding the Other Americans with somewhat more of 
 respect; well knowing now that there are agreeable scenes to 
 be revisited, remote regions to be explored, and for those who 
 have money, judgment, tact, and energy, wonderful opportu- 
 nities for enterprise.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 
 
 Altiiottgii information and advice in regard to South 
 American trade liave been liberally proffered in many books 
 and magazines, and in various addresses to commercial bodies, 
 a few additional remarks may be of service. It is evident 
 from many tales of recent happenings that for the benefit of 
 those who are yet in dense ignorance of South America and 
 of the requirements of foreign trade suggestions often pre- 
 viously urged may be reiterated. 
 
 Except for certain facts of common knowledge, it would go 
 without saying that the first and most important point for a 
 manufacturer to consider is whether or not he really cares to 
 cultivate South American trade, and will make a determined 
 and persistent effort to secure and preserve it. Sporadic 
 efforts for occasional sales not only are of slight value but 
 are injurious to manufacturers who would build up a perma- 
 nent trade. 
 
 Commercial men are now generally aware that in the 
 regions to the south business opportunities are large and are 
 rapidly increasing. The population of the Latin American 
 Republics is above seventy millions, and their commerce, 
 amounting in 1912 to two and a half billion dollars, is far 
 greater than that of China and Japan together. In fact Ar- 
 gentina alone has more commerce than either of these Asiatic 
 countries, and Brazil has more than Japan. Further, the 
 ratio of increase on our South American continent is greater 
 than in those regions of Asia. 
 
 "]\Iany manufacturers have already taken advantage of 
 the opportunity presented by the great European War to 
 seek in South America a market for their wares, while others 
 including some of our leading industries had established a 
 large trade before this period. It is not desirable, however, 
 
 360
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADK :U;i 
 
 for us to flatter ourselves tliat South Aiiifrii-aiis in g^cnt'i-al 
 are eager to trade with us instead of with Europe. Naturally, 
 while they cannot elsewhere procure wliat they want, they 
 are glad to have us supply their needs ; hut that North Ameri- 
 cans as a class are really popular in many South American 
 countries is more than doubtful. Latin Amci-iean courtesy 
 is proverbial, but politeness does not always mean friend- 
 ship. 
 
 Latin Americans have long been distrustful and suspicious 
 of our nation from a political point of view. The issue of 
 our troubles with .Mexico will either allay or increase those 
 suspicions. They dislike the boorish or supercilious manner 
 of some of our half-educated traveling, railroad, and mining 
 men, although Americans of bi'oader intelligence and better 
 manners are well liked. 
 
 Capital from any quarter is welcomed in undeveloped 
 countries and decidedly better bargains will not be despi.sed. 
 But we should l)ear in mind that (Ireat P>ritain has already 
 placed two billion dollars in Argentina alone, and that the 
 investment of a few millions in the whole of South America 
 very properly will not outweigh the early aid received from 
 other quarters, by means of which the various Republics have 
 advanced to their present .status. To undertake the estab- 
 lishing of commercial relations with the idea that it is a con- 
 descension on our part is a mi.stake which will be greatly to 
 our disadvantage in the futuic. though some persons are 
 obliged for the moment to accept our goods and pay our 
 prices with the best grace they may. 
 
 A friendly Englishman expres.sed to me the opinion that 
 after the close of the war the Americans would lo.se (>() jier cent 
 of their present trade in South Amei-ica on account of their 
 unwillingness to adapt themselves to Latin American cus- 
 toms, their present inditTerence as to making sales, and their 
 assumption of su|)eri()rity. In contrast to this opinion an 
 American long resident in the .same city, while acknowledg- 
 ing the truth of the criticism, thought the Aiiieiicans would 
 learn faster than the British did, and that the r.illiuL' olT in 
 trade would be less. 
 
 It is obvious that only those American goods which are 
 exclusive or which nquire no tarilT advantage can long com-
 
 362 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 pete successfully on even terms abroad witli European wares, 
 after the conclusion of the war. 
 
 An important and primary consideration is the willingness 
 and ability to conform to South American custom in regard 
 to credit; it has been a frcfjuent custom to defer payment from 
 tiiree to six months after the delivery of the goods, the price 
 being fixed accordingly or interest being added. Such credit, 
 previously granted by European firms, must in many cases 
 be given by ours in order to gain and preserve extensive trade. 
 In some quarters an idea is current that South American 
 credit is not generally good, but shippers of many years' 
 experience assert that customers there are as reliable and 
 honest as those in Europe or the Ujiited States. Further- 
 more, certain New York shii)pers take charge of and guar- 
 antee the collections, so that no loss is possible. Where 
 results have been unsatisfactory it has often been due to the 
 incompetence or dishonesty of the agent rather than to the 
 Latin American with whom he dealt. Naturally suitable pre- 
 cautions should be taken and careful scrutiny exercised, as 
 not every one is honest in any quarter of the globe. 
 
 The investigation of credits has been made in many places 
 by R. G. Dun, while the recent establishing of American Banks 
 in several cities and the probably early installation of others 
 is certain to be of great assistance in this regard. It was 
 high time for a move in this direction, as in all of the im- 
 portant cities of South America there have long been one or 
 several banks of the various nationalities : British, Spanish, 
 Italian, German, French ; which have greatly promoted the 
 development of general business, besides paying handsome 
 dividends to their stockholders. There is room still for addi- 
 tional banking houses with large capital, either branches of 
 our great institutions or independent local houses. The 
 Dollar Exchange, which is now so much discussed, might be 
 somewhat facilitated if all Americans in the other Republics 
 would say dollars when they mean dollars, and otherwise 
 pesos, soles, or milreis. 
 
 Much has been said about American Steamship Lines as 
 an encouragement to our commerce. The fact that one week 
 of war did more to convince our people of the necessity of 
 these than the preaching of experts for many years is not
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 3G3 
 
 especially creditable lo those who, inipiTvious to reason, must 
 be convinced by a knockdown blow. The suspension of plans 
 for improved service by foreign steamsliij) lini's and the dis- 
 continuance or impairment of service previously existing 
 have caused much hardship to Latin America and have 
 greatly hindered the development of our trade. Happily 
 present plans insure a biweekly American line from New 
 York down the West Coast bcfoi-c long, with the possibility 
 of anotiiei'. ]More frecpient service for the East Coast it is 
 hoped will follow. Better accommochitions an<l more rapid 
 service will surely promote ph-asurc travel, as the steamers 
 on the "West Coast, though fairly comfortable, are not invit- 
 ing to those who wish to travel only under conditions of 
 luxury. A considerable number of freight steauHMs ;ii-e al- 
 ready plying on each side. 
 
 With favorable consideration in regard to embarking on 
 foreign trade, or even as a preliminaiy, some ()r<linary geo- 
 graphical knowledge and a slight ac(|uaintance with local 
 conditions, easily procured, is highly desirable. It is not a 
 prepossessing introduction for a gentleman to receive a letter 
 dii-ected '' I'uoios Aires, Hra/.il or Chile.'' as often haj)pens. 
 this being one degree worse than if Brazil or Cliih' were used 
 alone. The former address betrays not merely ignorance but 
 the nuin's indifference to his display of it. A gentleman 
 who recently received a letter directed to Concepcinn, Chih'. 
 I'hiiippines, recpiested me to urge Americans to stu<ly geog- 
 laphy. The conunon i)racticc of mailing h-tters with insutli- 
 cient postage, much more annoying, and dhsolutclif inrx- 
 ciisdhlf, still continues. 
 
 i\lany of our lai'gest industries and some sin.iller ones al 
 I'cady have an exceUent ti'a(h' with South Aitieriea. Ten 
 \ears ago one met tVw Americans in tliese countries. .\ow it 
 may be said that "llie woods ar<' full of them." 
 
 As from six weeks to three months will pass before an 
 answer may be received to one's letter addressed to the Inited 
 States Consul resident in the various countries, it is tlie more 
 important to learn as much as possible at iiome of the char- 
 acter of the dilVerent localities, the variety of climate and 
 productions, the condition of the people and their re<|uire- 
 ments; some of whidi inforiiiatioii may be fouml in the valu-
 
 364 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 able monthly Bulletin of the Pan American Union, in The 
 South American, and other periodicals, and in the multitude 
 of books recently written on the various countries. 
 
 With even the slightest knowledge one might avoid the 
 absurdity of sending lawn mowers to Iquique, a barren desert 
 where for the few and expensive plots of grass not only the 
 water but the soil is imported ; or rubber boots to Lima, where 
 only a slight drizzle is ever experienced and small probability 
 exists of need in the back country ; or old-fashioned chande- 
 liers on a three-foot stem to places where electricity is em- 
 ployed or where the ceilings are 15 feet high. If ordinary 
 pi-ecautions had not been ignored, it would seem foolish to 
 say that before shipping goods one should ascertain whether 
 such articles are wanted in that locality. 
 
 It is well to note that except in the case of some novelty, 
 the people know what they want and insist upon having it. 
 They will not take what ive think they ought to want or what 
 is convenient for us to send. Many of the Latin Americans 
 are quite as fashionable and up-to-date as we are ; the Indians, 
 on the contrary, want the same thing year after year and for 
 centuries. If their trade is desired their taste must be catered 
 to, as others are glad to supply what they want if we do not. 
 
 Permanent commercial interests alone should be sought. 
 Great injury has been inflicted upon the reputation of our 
 merchants by the unjustifiable conduct of manufacturers, who 
 in dull times have sent men abroad to take orders ; then, busi- 
 ness at home reviving and rush orders being received, they 
 have turned back to their old customers, ignoring the new 
 and leaving tJicir orders unfilled, careless of their embarra.ss- 
 ment and inability to supply their needs from any local mar- 
 ket. Also some persons have sacrificed the prospect of per- 
 manent trade with South America for larger temporary 
 profits from war orders. 
 
 Extraordinary changeahlencss has sometimes been mani- 
 fested with even less excuse. An American in Bolivia engaged 
 in a large business with Indians, after much urging and time 
 spent, was persuaded by a traveling man from New Orleans to 
 give him an order for a thousand dollars' worth of goods to be 
 delivered within six months. About the time they were ex- 
 pected, the American received a letter saying that the firm 
 had concluded not to fill any orders to Bolivia !
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 365 
 
 A difficulty frequently experienced where cash sales liavc 
 been made, and an excessive annoyance to the purchaser, is 
 that a draft sent at the same time with the goods if not earlier 
 reaches the consignee a week, a month, or more before the 
 arrival of the merchandise. A month's interest is lost by the 
 purchaser, with the goods not in hand. When they do arrive 
 they are often not as ordered, deficient in quantity and (|ual- 
 ity, and naturally that is the end. It sliouhl be superfluous to 
 say that merchandise should be up to the qudJitjj of the sample, 
 but not so. Such methods will not long work abroad when 
 competition is free. 
 
 Further, the goods must be precisely like the sample, not 
 even something better. j\Ien who order two-wheeled vehicles 
 do not want four-wheeled. The latter in some sections are 
 impossible. The assumi)tion that people do not know what 
 they want, or the carelessness which permits of gross mis- 
 takes in shipping goods thousands of miles is evidence of 
 crude business ideas and methods. In general a slight ditTer- 
 ence in price is not so keenly regarded as the quality of the 
 goods and the steadiness of price. 
 
 Careful packing of goods, a matter of the greatest impor- 
 tance, has for years been continually urged. It has been true 
 that packages from 1h(> Cnited States on the dcx-k in South 
 American ports could be picked out on account of tiieir dis- 
 reputable appearance. A United States official, writing for 
 goods to his New York di'uggist, charged him particularly 
 about the packing. The bottles ari'iving in a pasteboard box 
 were broken. Again he tried with definite instructions and 
 the same result. The next order went to England, where it 
 was properly filled. 
 
 The persistence in ignoring c.rprrt ndvicr is extraordinary. 
 Agents in Soutli America olten send explicit directions as to 
 packing, the size and weight of boxes, etc., without the sligiit 
 est effect. Goods are dispatched in a 500 or 1000 lb. box 
 to a region where they must be transported on the back of 
 llamas, whose load is 100 lbs. Tlie box is left on tlie liock or 
 at the railway station; the goods are never used. 
 
 New York shippers report that much freight re.iches tlicni 
 in a condition impossibh- to einbaik on the long journey. It 
 must be refused oi- repacked. These are ciirious eonuneii- 
 taries on the supposedly sujicrior bnsiness ri'iility of .\mcr-
 
 366 TlIK SOUTFI AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 ieaiis. The splendidly hound boxes and bales of British goods 
 are in striking contrast. 
 
 On the East Coast transportation by water and rail is gen- 
 eral, though not complete. On the West, Chile is well served 
 with railroads, Bolivia's are rai)idly developing, but an enor- 
 mous region remains, especially in Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador, 
 where transportation by mules, burros, llamas, and Indians 
 will long continue to be the only methods. 
 
 A material factor in securing South American trade where 
 agents are employed is the sending of suitable and competent 
 men. One of our largest houses, noted for the rather su- 
 perior quality of its salesmen, admitted that they had by 
 experience discovered that some who were very good salesmen 
 here did not succeed there. Precisely why Americans should 
 be so reluctant to follow advice from experts on subjects of 
 which they are ignorant is a puzzle; but it is a fact that the 
 preaching of many men for many years seems largely to have 
 fallen on deaf ears. We should comprehend that South 
 Americans are not ignorant barbarians, that many of them 
 have more culture, often more education, than our average 
 business men, that their manners are generally better, and 
 that if we desire their business we must adapt ourselves in 
 some degree and treat them with courtesy and not arrogance. 
 To speak of them as monkeys, savages, and dagoes, even so as 
 to be overheard, to commit other acts of unpardonable rude- 
 ness in churches and elsewhere, boorishly to inform them that 
 they are half a century behind the times, are acts w-hich might 
 seem incredible but are by no means rare. A man who is thor- 
 oughly convinced of his own superiority and who regards the 
 courteous amenities of life practiced by Latin Americans as 
 silly and time w^asting. as an evidence of insincerity and of a 
 lack of practical common sense, who fancies himself above 
 the conventions of dress and manners as practiced in the cities 
 visited, and as they are in Europe, who would rush and push 
 his w^ares is likely to make an unfavorable impression and to 
 learn that more haste is less speed. 
 
 It should be obvious that to accomplish much a man must 
 speak the languages of the countries visited. What success 
 would a man speaking no English have in the United States? 
 Spanish is current in all the Republics save Brazil ; there it
 
 SOUTH AMKIUCAX TRADE :{(i7 
 
 is understood by all persons of education, and nniy do fairly 
 in the large cities; but for an extended tour or a long stay in 
 Brazil a knowledge of Portuguese is essential. 
 
 Tivo extremes ai'e uoti<'ed by the observant traveler in South 
 America, each of which iii)pears objectionable. Some Amer- 
 ican goods are sohl at one-lialf or ()ne-(|uai-ler of the home 
 price; which might cause the disinterested layman to conchide 
 that our tariff needed revising; other articles are sold at dou- 
 ble or triple the price at home (not always the fault of the 
 duty), a practice in the long run likely to i)rove unprofitable. 
 Thus a popular sewing machine was bought a few years ago in 
 Are<iuii)a at one-fourth the price in Boston. AVhite ])aper 
 made in the United States was cheaper in Chile than in Chi- 
 cago. On the other hand, in La Paz. shoes wortli $2.50 cost 
 $5.50 to $6.00, kerosene oil .sold at about $5.00 for a case of 10 
 gallons, a can of corned beef costs SO cents; and ham, <iO to SO 
 cents a lb. The last, put up by a Chicago packer, could be pur- 
 chased more cheaply at retail from an English firm, having 
 come by way of Tjondon, than at wholesale from the Ciucago 
 agent on the ground ; and the home ofifice would not take a 
 direct order. Whether the price was according to the plans 
 of the home ofifice, or the idiosyncrasy of the agent anxious to 
 nmke his fortune in a hurry, is unknown. That some agents 
 are arbitrary in their ch.irges might l)e judged from the fact 
 that boots sold at ]\lollendo for $5.00 a ]);iir wi're j)i-iced in 
 La Paz at $14.00. 
 
 The sharp practice of some salesmen is giciitly to the dis- 
 advantage of others. The man who sold a snow-plow to some 
 one on the coast lands of Peru on the plea that the elimate 
 would change on the completion of the canal no tloubt i)rides 
 himself on his smartness, indifferent to the fact that he has 
 done nuich to discredit Americans in all that region. M.-iny 
 seem to think that j)atriotism consists simply in "blowini.'" 
 about their country; that they might do it a better service by 
 honorable conduct and courteous demeanor does not oivur 
 
 to tlieill. 
 
 I have heai'd that in many i)laces on the plateau, as prub- 
 ably in \W. intei'ior, it is customary to cliaige the poor Indians 
 who earn but 50 or 75 cents a day double the already higli 
 price which a white man is asked for the same artji-le. a
 
 368 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 sample no doubt of the justice and fair dealing for which we 
 are told that men are distinguished, but in which women are 
 said to be lacking. 
 
 Ten dollars a day has been allowed ;is a suitable sum for 
 traveling expenses, and one following the railroads and not 
 being burdened with heavy samples might find this sufficient. 
 In the interior where many pack animals must be employed, 
 or with a large svipply of baggage to go by rail, and in Brazil 
 and Argentina where heavy license fees must be paid, the 
 fifteen dollars a day asserted by a recent traveler to be neces- 
 sary may be desirable. It depends, too, a good deal upon the 
 skill and character of the man. 
 
 The tax on commercial travelers who sell goods or w'ho 
 merely exhibit samples and take orders is an item to be con- 
 sidered in connection with other expenses. In some countries 
 a separate license must be obtained for each Province or De- 
 partment, corresponding to our States ; in others for each 
 Municipality. A few countries, more liberal, exact no fee 
 whatever. 
 
 Beginning with Ecuador, $50 is here charged for one visit. 
 
 In Peru no license is required for commercial travelers, 
 but there are certain regulations as to samples. If they are 
 such as would enter free of duty no charge is made. If the 
 articles are dutiable, one of each kind and variety is permitted 
 free entry, providing the importer presents in duplicate an 
 itemized description of packages and articles, pays the duty 
 in cash or with bank draft, and Avithin three months exports 
 these samples, thereupon receiving back the cash or bank draft 
 which he has deposited. Should there be any deficiency or 
 substitution of articles, double duty will be exacted and the 
 article substituted will be confiscated. 
 
 If samples enter Peru by Mollendo to go to Bolivia, not to 
 return by the same route, they are dutiable, unless the 
 Peruvian Consul in La Paz sends a certificate that the samples 
 have entered Bolivia. The duty previously paid is then 
 refunded. A fee of $12.50, U. S. gold, is charged by the city 
 of Arequipa as a license in that particular section. 
 
 Bolivia is a more expensive country to visit and for that 
 reason is omitted from the itinerary of many travelers. The 
 policy of the Government seems particularly injudicious in
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 369 
 
 vievV' of the fact that their country is out of the way, that it 
 has no great cities, and that hirge sales are re(|uired to cover 
 the additional time and cost of the journey even without the 
 considerable fee exacted. 
 
 Further, each municipality eollfcts a fee for itself; there 
 is no general tax. The fee varies at'cording to the class of 
 goods but in general for La Paz, the chief city (pop. 80,()()()), 
 is 300 hoi or $116.70 U. S. gold; never more. The author- 
 ities of Cochabamba are said to charge 1000 boJ. for the priv- 
 ilege of selling in their pretty city, while Oruro demands l)ut 
 100 hoi. As to other cities inquiry must be made in the 
 country. There is talk of reducing the Cochabamba fee and 
 perhaps the Bolivian Government will soon realize that the 
 country will do better to adopt the more lil)eral policy of her 
 neighbors, Peru and Chile. It should be added that if two 
 persons go together as representatives of the same house each 
 one is obliged to pay the tax. 
 
 Chile, like Peru, is extremely favorable to the commercial 
 traveler, re(iuiring no pei-inits and no duty on samples which 
 have no value. Six months arc allowed in which to rcship 
 samples free of duty. 
 
 The sections of the East Coast are niucli more exacting. 
 
 Argentina, noted for high prices generally, also has large 
 license fees; these not for the country as a whole, but for each 
 individual State or Province. A license covering the Federal 
 Capital, liuenos Aires, costs 500 Arg. pesos, paper, .t212.;}0 IJ. 
 S. gold, and is good for one year. P]ach State has its own ad- 
 ditional eliarge, inainly good for a whole year, though a few 
 have half rates for six months and one or two, monthly 
 licenses. These permit either selling goods, or showing sam- 
 ples and taking orders. 
 
 Not to enumerate all of the various districts it may be said 
 that the fees vary from nothing in Xeu<|Uen to \GSO pisos, 
 about $700 V. S. gold, in Salta ; all of the remaining fet's ex- 
 cept those of Tucuman, Entre Hios, and Mendoza. whicii are 
 GOO i)(s<)s ($2;");")), being less tlian that of Santa Fe, which is 
 400 pesos, about $170, j)er annum. Samples of no value pay 
 no duty; on others the duty which is i)aid is refunded if the 
 samples are exported within six mouths. In some places a
 
 370 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 difi'ereuce is made iu the license fee if but one line of samples 
 is offered. 
 
 In Paraguay license fees are charged in each of the five 
 chief cities, varying, according to tlie importance of the firm 
 represented, from $84 gold to $385. At other points, the 
 license is one-third the amount in these cities. An advisory 
 board of merchants fixes the class to which each traveler 
 belongs, five classes altogether. No extra charge for repre- 
 senting more than one firm. No distinction for selling with- 
 out samples. No tax for samples if taken out within six 
 months. 
 
 Uruguay is said to charge 100 pesos or $103.42 U. S. gold, 
 for the calendar year, the license expiring December 31. Ap- 
 plication to the Chief of Police of Montevideo on paper with 
 a 50 cent stamp being made, the certificate issued must be 
 presented to the Director-General of Indirect Taxes to obtain 
 the required license. Samples entered under bond are not 
 subject to duty. According to the Consul General of Uru- 
 guay a license for the city of i\Iontevideo only, all that most 
 persons care for, is issued for ten pesos, $10.35. 
 
 Brazil requires no federal tax of commercial travelers but 
 the States and cities more than make up this deficienc3^ As a 
 milreis is practically 33 cents, or three milreis about one dol- 
 lar, only one figure need be given. 
 
 Para charges 300$ (i e., milreis) as a State tax per annum, 
 and 365$ for the city on each visit. If goods are actually 
 sold, trader's or hawker's license is also required. 
 
 In Pernambuco there is no State tax, and but 53$»for the 
 city of Fortaleza in Ceara. 
 
 Bahia charges 100$ for a yearly license, but it must be 
 renewed if one leaves the country and returns. 
 
 No license is required in Rio unless goods are sold, when a 
 trader's license is necessary. 
 
 Sao Paulo State has no tax but the city has a fee of 1000$ 
 and the city of Santos 500$. 
 
 The State of Rio Grande do Sul has a tax of 150$ for sell- 
 ing in cities, 100$ for towns, 80$ for other places. The cities 
 of Porto Alegre, Pelotas, and Sjio Gabriel exact each a license 
 fee of 200$, Uruguayana 300$, Bage 800$, Sao Borga 60$. 
 
 A power of attorney is generally necessary if agents are
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE Ml 
 
 to receive mone}', this to be liled witli a notary puMi.- wh.i 
 supplies copies in Portuguese on request. 
 
 Samples of no value pay no duty, but if worth mure than 
 one milreis duty is levied. The amount is deposited in the 
 Custom House and if the goods are cheeked and sent out from 
 the same port the duty will be returned. 
 
 The Central Railway has a mileage book and the Leopoldiua 
 Railway gives a discount of 20 per cent on saiiijiles ami on 
 fares of travelers. 
 
 Information on various matters may be found in the latest 
 p]xporters' Encyelopa'dia ; and is furnished to members l)y 
 the All Americas Association, the National Association ot 
 ^Manufacturers, and the American Manufacturers Export 
 Association. 
 
 As to the resources of the South American countries and the 
 variety of goods which may be exported thither to advantage. 
 tliese tilings are set forth in detail in many books, in eonsular 
 reports, and in back numbers of the Pan American liulh'tin, 
 to be found in our large libraries. I have here space for a 
 few remarks only. Since the continent as a whole is still 
 thinly settled and largely undevelojx'd, its productions and 
 exports are chiefly mineral and agricultural, its im])orts manu- 
 factured goods, as is the ease generally with young countries. 
 Conditions in some respects resemble those in the United 
 States half a century ago. Everywhere railways are being 
 hiid, and bridges built; towns are needing sewers, electi-ic 
 lights, street cars, and all modei-n improveim-nts. The great 
 cities are for the most part supplied with these, but many 
 smaller ones are thinking a])out them or have merely made 
 a leginiiing. 
 
 Matei'ial and e(|uipment for the biiihjiiig and operation of 
 i-aiiroads are needed in every country, bridge building ma- 
 terial as well. Our steel men. our locomotive and car builders 
 liave been wide awake to such matters and are doing excellent 
 business in some of the countries. Where, as in Argentina, 
 most of the railways are financed with Uritish capital, .\iiicr- 
 ieans have less chance in proportion than in tlio.se countries 
 where American capital is considerably employed, as in 
 I'jcuador. Peru, and l'>olivia. 
 
 Agricultural macliinerv of almost every kind and ai:ricul-
 
 372 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 tural tools are in great demand on the East Coast, on the 
 vast estates of Argentina, to some extent in Uruguay and 
 Brazil. They have a smaller sale on the West Coast, where 
 mining raaehinery is one of the prime necessities. Electrical 
 apparatus of all kinds is everywhere needed and is largely 
 supplied by the General Electric and other companies. 
 
 Although most of the countries have coal, the mines are 
 not greatly developed except in Chile; hence much is im- 
 ported ; a good deal of lumber also, in spite of immense forests, 
 as yet unavailable save in a few localities. 
 
 In all of the countries the chief import is textiles, princi- 
 pally from Europe, though the United States furnishes a good 
 deal of the coarse grades of cotton, canvas, etc. Industrial 
 machinery, automobiles and other vehicles, utensils, hardware, 
 corrugated iron, sewing machines, paper of various kinds, 
 motors, scales and balances, surgical and mathematical instru- 
 ments, pianos and piano players, petroleum, gasoline, etc., 
 lubricating oils, typewriting machines ; canned goods, par- 
 ticularly on the West Coast, including milk, meat, and salmon, 
 especially for miners, also used in the rubber country ; leather 
 goods, boots and shoes, watches, soap, druggists' supplies and 
 medicines, lard, twine, motors, dynamite, arms and ammuni- 
 tion, fence wire, pumps, pipings and fittings, tin plate, glass, 
 porcelain, watches, phonographs, photographic material, and 
 all kinds of novelties and general merchandise are among the 
 articles imported ; a few animals, chiefly blooded stock from 
 Europe. 
 
 Should one desire to engage in business for himself in any 
 of the Republics, there are good openings for persons with 
 capital who speak the language. Persons without money are 
 warned by our consuls not to go, unless they have a definite 
 engagement or are specialists in certain lines where experts 
 are pretty sure to be desired. 
 
 It is unwise to trust implicitly the stories about wonderful 
 mines, though these doubtless exist. If genuine, they are 
 often impossible to exploit without an enormous outlay of 
 capital as was the case with the Cerro de Pasco mines ; more- 
 over, as thousands if not millions of people have been deceived 
 about mines in the United States and in regard to many other 
 money making schemes, it is still more foolish to give credence
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 373 
 
 to tales promising untold wealth in those distant countries. 
 With the ])est of intentions the enthusiast is liahle to be mis- 
 taken and deliberate fraud is common ; therefore, caution is 
 ever needed. Yet with careful investigation opportunities in 
 almost any line nuiy be found in some one of these rapidly 
 developing countries, superior to those afforded in more 
 thickly settled regions of the earth. 
 
 Concerning the Countries Individually. 
 
 Ecuador. In Ecuador, it may be noted, the United States 
 stands second among importing nations. As a place for in- 
 vestment, enterprise, and residence, it has advantages and 
 disadvantages. The coast region, on account of excessive 
 rainfall, Inimidity, and heat, has a less agreeable and healthful 
 climate than the rainless Peruvian shores with their moderate 
 temperature; malaria and yellow fever being endemic in 
 Guayaquil, though probably not everywhere on the coast. 
 
 The sierra and monlana regions of the two countries are 
 quite similar, the high valley's of the sierra district enjoying 
 a healthful and delightful climate. The natural resources 
 resemble those of Peru, although the chief exports are dissim- 
 ilar. Ecuador's cocoa plantations are her largest source of 
 wealth and supply her principal export. Vegetable ivory, 
 fruit of the tagua palm, is another important article of pro- 
 duction, most useful in making buttons. The manufacture of 
 Panama hats is an industry long flourishing. Some coffee and 
 rubber are exported, also hides; and sugar cane is raised. 
 Rich mineral resources are undoubted ; gold, mercury, copper, 
 iron, coal, lead, platinum, and silver ; these still undeveloped ; 
 petroleum and sulphur are found. ]\Iany manufacturing in- 
 dustries are carried on in a small way, but such goods are 
 mainly imported: textiles, food slulVs, clothing, drugs, boots 
 and shoes, paper, leather, crockery, vehicles, etc., are some of 
 the importations, with material for railroad building and roll- 
 ing stock. As the d<'velopment of tlie country is regarded as 
 twenty-five years behind tliat of Peru, it would natui-ally 
 ail'ord better opportunities in some directions and poorer in 
 others. Railroads are planned in several directions. 
 
 Peru. The Republic of Peru ])rcsenls proliably the great- 
 est variety of climate, soil, and productions, to be found in
 
 374 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 any ])ortion of the globe. Along its 1200 miles of coast may 
 be raised in the irrigated valleys nearly all troi)ifal and tem- 
 perate products. In the sierras will be found practically every 
 variety of mineral, and in one place or another climates to 
 suit every taste. Whatever one may desire is therefore to be 
 procured within its borders, although not all points are 
 equally accessible. 
 
 The coast lands present unique advantages for agriculture, 
 in that the climate may be depended upon ; there is no fear 
 of drought, of sudden storms, or of frost, and though within 
 the tropics there is no excess of heat. 
 
 Of 50,000,000 acres capable of irrigation in this section but 
 2,000,000 now have the facilities, and of these not all are em- 
 ployed; hence there is ample room. The difficulty is lack of 
 capital and sometimes of labor. 
 
 The chief export of Peru is sugar; and if our Louisiana 
 planters on account of tariff reduction feel like making a 
 change, they wdll find in Peru an ample field where four tons 
 to the acre are produced and a price of 114 cts. a lb. will 
 bring a profit. 
 
 Cotton plantations offer excellent opportunities; the best 
 qualities grow well, Sea Island, Upland, etc. ; also the native 
 Peruvian which brings the highest price of all, being hardly 
 distinguishable from wool. Yet, as it takes several years to 
 come into bearing (it lives 10 or 15 years), the Upland which 
 bears in six months is preferred by many. In southern Peru 
 vineyards and orchards are a specialty, fruits most delicious, 
 figs, melons, grapes, chirimoias, olives, and paltas, with vege- 
 tables, and with alfalfa, wheat, and maize. Tobacco is raised 
 in various sections and coffee in many, none finer in the 
 world. 
 
 The sierra country is full of minerals: gold, silver, lead, 
 copper, quicksilver, tungsten, cinnabar, vanadium, anything 
 you can mention. Every kind of coal is found, though as j-et 
 the mines are mostly undeveloped for lack of transportation 
 facilities; oil of fine quality exists along the coast in Tumbes, 
 in Pnno near Lake Titicaca, and in other sections ; borax in the 
 Arequipa district ; iron in many quarters ; peat in Junin. On 
 the plateau, besides minerals galore, are excellent cattle lands; 
 many sheep are raised, Scotch shepherds and collies here look-
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 375 
 
 ing after them ; the native breed is crossed with imported me- 
 rinos, making good stock, furnishintr 5 to 8 ll)s. of wool pi-r 
 head. Alpacas every two years yield from 6 to 9 lbs. of bet- 
 ter wool, while the vicuna furnishes a smaller supply of still 
 finer grade. 
 
 The east side of the mountains is rather difficult of access, 
 but not too far down, alK'ords a delightful climate; a colony 
 willing to work would Hud pleasant homes in various localities. 
 In valleys near Cuzco.is the finest of cocoa, in the Chaneha- 
 niayo or Perene Valley back of Lima and Oroya are millions 
 of coffee trees, lower down is plenty of rul)bcr. Some is ex- 
 ported by way of ^Mollendo from the Inambari, Timbopata 
 districts, more by Iquitos and Para from the Ucayali, the 
 Putomayo, and other sections. While men frequently say 
 that they do not go to such countries for their health, it is 
 indeed a pity that some seem to forget that they are human 
 beings and treat the inoffensive natives in a manner far worse 
 than savages. In these regions the heat and humidity are 
 unpleasant and in limited sections unhealthy, though the 
 dangers are by some over-estimated, ^lany papers and maga- 
 zines publish sensational stories of adventure, often knowing 
 them to be exaggerated ; all books do not justly represent con- 
 ditions. ]\rany stories of hardship, when true, are merely 
 evidence of ignorance and bad judgment, utterly foolish con- 
 duct quite inexcusa])le, in sections where otlu-rs have experi- 
 enced not the slightest difficulty. 
 
 Persons with moderate capital not interested in mining or 
 agriculture might find it profitable to undertake numufactur- 
 ing in certain lines. There are now in the country a few 
 factories for cotton, woolen, biscuit making, chocolate, fi-uit 
 preserves, cocaine, and matches; also flour mills. 
 
 There is opportunity for electrical power in many ])l;ices, 
 for installing electric lights, sewers, water pipes, etc. 
 
 Provisions are in certain sections extremely cheap, in others 
 very dear, on account of transportation difficulties. Lima is 
 called expensive and it would seem that eggs and chickens 
 might be profitably raised near by, also daii-y products and 
 other supplies. 
 
 At i)resent the chief exports from Peru in the order i)f 
 their value are minerals, sugar, cotton, rubber, wool, petro-
 
 376 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 leiim, guano, Panama hats, hides and skins, ice, cocaine, coca, 
 coffee. The leading- imports are textiles, coal, machinei-y, etc. ; 
 from the United States, machinery, wood, drugs, meats, bread- 
 stuffs, shoes, coal, hardware, arms and ammunition, soap, 
 vehicles, instruments and apparatus, general merchandise. 
 
 It should be noted in connection with Peru, that machinery 
 and supplies for railroad construction and for mining are ad- 
 mitted free of duty ; also as an item of great importance, that 
 the export tax on rubber is less than one-quarter of that ex- 
 acted by Brazil and a little smaller than the one fixed by Bo- 
 livia. For this reason the country is especially favorable for 
 the extension of the rubber industry. 
 
 Bolivia. The products of Bolivia are like those of Peru 
 except that its agricultural resources are as yet little devel- 
 oped. Hence there is more importation of food stuffs; flour 
 is an article of export from the United States, as well as pre- 
 serves and suet. Canned stuffs are useful to the mining and 
 railroad people. Cartridges, leather goods, soap, kerosene, 
 furniture, clothing, dynamite, firearms, copper wire, iron and 
 steel, vinegar, Florida water, wood, agricultural tools, mining 
 machinery, lard, cotton, cameras, sewing machines, typewrit- 
 ers are other imports. 
 
 Bolivia presents excellent opportunities for mining. Tin 
 of first importance, silver, copper, and bismuth are now the 
 chief mineral exports, although rich deposits of gold are at- 
 tested. 
 
 The montana country presents conditions similar to Peru, 
 for the rubber industry, for the raising of coffee, coca, qui- 
 nine, and other products. A grain called quinua, cultivated 
 on the plateau, is said to be more nutritious than wheat. The 
 alpaca and vicuna here flourish, the former supplying 15 lbs. 
 of wool every other year. Persons who find the plateau region 
 cheerless might enjoy the agricultural section part way down 
 the eastern slope of the mountains; thus a San Francisco 
 gentleman, many years resident of the Garden City, Cocha- 
 bamba, over whose climate and future prospects he speaks 
 with enthusiasm. Tarija, farther south, has a delightful cli- 
 mate and equal prospects. 
 
 One American living on the plateau has been doing a thriv- 
 ing business by making monthly trips to the interior 150 miles
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 377 
 
 to the east, selling goods at the haciendas and the Indian vil- 
 lages, $10,000 worth on a trip, and bringing baek fruit and 
 vegetables to the cities above. 
 
 The several lines of railway just completed and several 
 more in construction make certain the immediate dcvclojunent 
 and rapid progress of this country. The possibilitii-s for the 
 production of wool are very large and also for cattle raising. 
 The climate of a large part of the country is healthful and 
 agreeable, and residence in La Paz and other cities is enjoyed 
 by many Americans. Bolivia's rapid development and pi-os- 
 perity is assured. 
 
 Chile. The country of Chile, curiously unique in shape, 
 being excessively long and thin, extends over 2000 miles from 
 north to soutli, with a width of from 105 to 248 miles from 
 east to west. Although so narrow, it has each way three well 
 marked divisions : from north to south, the rainless, desert and 
 nitrate region, within and near the tropics; the temperate 
 central section, a rich agricultural district with considerable 
 rainfall; and the southern portion, with too much precipita- 
 tion, rain, snow, and fogs, largely a forest land with some 
 swamps and grazing country. Along the entire shore runs 
 the Coast Cordillera with an altitude ranging from 1000 to 
 GOOO or 7000 feet; then comes a plateau or valley, in the far 
 south a drowned valley with straits and fjords, and at the 
 east the great Andes ]\Its., the height of which forms the east- 
 ern boundary line. 
 
 A variety of climate and scenery is o])vi()us]y presented, 
 agreeable to dwellers in the Temperate Zone. Aside from the 
 strictly troi)ical productions, almost everything found in Peru 
 and Bolivia is liere provided; minerals galore, especially cop- 
 per, iron, and coal, with gold, silver, etc., in addition to tiie 
 world famed nitrates, and iodine. Petroleum and natural gas 
 have recently been discovered. Noted, like California, for its 
 fine fruits and vegetables, the central section alTords ample 
 field to increase their production. Here, too, the raising of 
 grain and of forage plants is extensively ]iracticed ; stock 
 farming is a great source of wealtli, Cliilian horses are of 
 noted excellence, and cattle flourisli. \'iticulture and apicul- 
 ture are profitable, the expoi't of honey lieiiig important. At 
 the south, the growing lumber business offers a fine field to
 
 ;{78 THE SOUTH American tour 
 
 experts, as well as Uk; valual)]e fishei-ics. The already large 
 sheep raising interests are chiefly in the territory of Magellan. 
 The canning industry both as to fruits and fish may be 
 developed with great profit. Manufactured goods are pro- 
 duced to the extent of $1.30,000,000 worth a year. Railway 
 building, which has been rapidly progressing, will for some 
 years continue to be an important field of labor. The Govern- 
 ment has planned to expend within this decade many millions 
 of dollars for public works, hydraulic and maritime, for irri- 
 gation, public buildings, and railways. 
 
 The imports include such things as sugar and coffee, also 
 petroleum from Peru ; from the United States, mineral prod- 
 ucts, especially steel and coal, with machinery of various 
 kinds, paper, vegetable produce, textiles, chemicals, etc. 
 
 Presenting conditions similar to our own West Coast, includ- 
 ing the earthquakes, the British and German settlers in the 
 country have as much enthusiasm for their new home as have 
 immigrants to California. In scenery, climate, and oppor- 
 tunities, Chile offers unusual attractions. 
 
 I had forgotten to state that valuable oyster beds exist in 
 the Gulf of Ancud, and that on the island of Chiloe two crops 
 a year of excellent potatoes may be grown. 
 
 Argentina, Argentina with its great plains is entirely dif- 
 ferent from the West Coast countries. From its configura- 
 tion, its development, especially its railroad building, has been 
 a far simpler proposition. It was easy to raise cattle and with 
 the profits thus obtained to cultivate immense agricultural 
 properties. Almost every kind of vegetable production is to 
 be found in this great Republic, and the rewards of agricul- 
 ture and stock raising have been quite equal to the wealth of 
 the mines elsewhere and far more useful. 
 
 The plague of locusts is an occasional drawback, but not 
 serious enough greatly to interfere with the grand total of 
 production. As the boundaries on the west extend along the 
 height of the Andes, some mineral wealth exists on their slopes, 
 but the possibilities in stock and wheat raising have been too 
 attractive for much attention to be devoted to mining mat- 
 ters. The agricultural products, wheat, oats, and linseed run 
 up into millions of tons ; the quantity of exports of these sur-
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 379 
 
 passes in value tliose of the United States, \vhile that of meat 
 exported is vastly greater. AVitli their small population rela- 
 tive to the extent of territory it is certain that for many years 
 Arf^entina will raise cattle and sheep enough to help out the 
 moie thickly settled portions of the glohe. To enter into such 
 enterprises to-day of course capital is needed, though some of 
 the present day millionaires went thither with nothing and 
 worked their way to fortune. Wages for mechanics are good, 
 and in some other lines, but expenses also are large. Accord- 
 ing to the number of inhabitants Argentijia has more railways 
 than the United States, though not in proportion to the extent 
 of territory. Almost everything is imported into the country 
 except meat and agricultural products, our share of the im- 
 ports being less than half that of Great Britain. 
 
 The northern and southern sections of Argentina still afford 
 splendid opportunities to the pioneer, presenting a wide choice 
 of climate and variety of employment. In the tropical and 
 sul)-troi)ical regions of the north are immense forests for 
 exploitation with quebracho, laurel, palms, and woods in end- 
 less variety, lands suitable for the culture of coffee, sugar 
 cane, yerba mate, cotton, rice, hemp, mandioca, and banana, 
 and in places farther south or on uplands, soil for barley, 
 wheat, corn, alfalfa, tobacco, the vine, etc. 
 
 The central pampa is of course the especial region for ce- 
 reals, wheat, corn, and flax, and this is not entirely pre-empted. 
 In Patagonia at the south thei-e is a gi'cat held for raising 
 cattle, sheep, goats, horses, guanaco, and the ostrich, as for 
 alfalfa, wheat, and barley, though in the greater part irriga- 
 tion is necessary for agricultui-e. With moderate capital 
 pioneers of experience and skill should be able to amass large 
 fortunes. 
 
 From jjick of cdnl, if not of water ])o\V(.r, it is probable that 
 agrifiiltiiijil jiiid aiiiiiuil products will long continue to be the 
 chief exports of Argentina and that maiuifaetui'ed goods will 
 be the principal imports. Textiles and manufactures of 
 these are of the great^'st \alue, iron and steel .irtides come 
 second, railway cars and e(|uipinenl and other vehicles third, 
 then eonie l)uilding iiiiitenals, earth, stone and coal, and so on, 
 ever\' kind ol" merchandise in use in a civilized countrv.
 
 380 THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR 
 
 Goods that sell in New York and Paris are likely to sell in 
 Buenos Aires, only — the Pure Food Law is strict. Chicago 
 hams are barred, though British hams are admitted. 
 
 Our farming machinery and tools have been largely sold, 
 yet by some the machinery is called too light to last and an 
 English make is preferred. An Australian machine, called a 
 cropper, a thrasher and harvester combined, has been received 
 with much favor. Duties generally are very high. 
 
 For successful competition in foreign markets, the highest 
 grade of our goods must be presented and business contracts 
 strictly carried out. 
 
 Paraguay, with a healthful sub-tropical climate, possesses 
 splendid forests with woods similar to those of the Argentine 
 Chaco, great plains supporting many herds of cattle, and land 
 capable of producing excellent cotton, tobacco, fruit, and all 
 kinds of tropical growths. The yerha mate which grows wild, 
 but may be cultivated, is one of the chief exports, bound to 
 increase rapidly, as the beverage, more healthful than tea or 
 coffee, is extremely popular even with the European immi- 
 grants, and in foreign countries. Hides, quebracho extracts, 
 and timber are exports of still greater value. The character 
 of the imports is much the same as in the neighboring coun- 
 tries. Railroad building is going on, and in spite of recent 
 war, internal development is in progress. Railway material 
 is free of dut}^ as is the case also with agricultural and indus- 
 trial machinery, ship building material, wire fencing, etc. 
 
 Uruguay, Avith a fine temperate climate and a pleasant roll- 
 ing country, is attractive to settlers with an eye to cattle 
 raising or agriculture. Americans of this class, as well as 
 business men and investors in any line, are cordially welcomed 
 by Uruguayans, and finding the atmosphere more homelike 
 than in some other places they are well content to stay. 
 "While agriculture and the live stock industry are the chief 
 activities, there are local manufacturing interests which do 
 not, however, begin to supply the market. Railway extension 
 is in progress, and the navigable rivers are an important 
 accessory. 
 
 By far the greatest export is animal production, including 
 wool, skins and hides, meat and meat extracts, etc., while agri- 
 cultural products are a distant second.
 
 SOUTH AMERICAN TRADE 381 
 
 The imports are similar to those of Argentina, ineluding 
 practically everything wiiich it does not export. 
 
 Brazil, like Pern, embraces within its borders an immense 
 vai'icly of resoui'ccs, and a considerable though smaller tliver- 
 sity of climate. On the highlands of the tropics it is comfort- 
 ably cool, as well as in the south. In many quarters it is 
 temperate and even subject to frost, in a few places to snow. 
 
 The magnitude of its wealth in rubber, cofl'ee, and all trop- 
 ical and sub-tropical productions is well understood; the rich- 
 ness of its mineral deposits is less known. Still less perhaps 
 is the fact that Brazil is larger than the United Slates proper, 
 and that it contains si.\ cities of 100,000 or more population, 
 including one of 400,000, Sao Paulo, and Rio with ai)proxi- 
 mately a million. 
 
 Everything is included within her boundaries, and whatever 
 one's taste in business, apart from polar exploration, there is 
 room for its gratilieation here — opi)ortunities for the settle- 
 ment of colonies in delightful climate and surroundings on 
 the richest soil, if persons care to indulge in agriculture, and 
 locations e(iually favorable for entering into mining or com- 
 mercial industry. Cattle raising is a growing occupation. 
 Food stuft's in Rio being very dear, market gardening could 
 be engaged in to excellent advantage in many spots on the 
 highlands at no great distance l)y rail from the capital. A 
 sinnlar opportunity exists near Buenos Aires, though as land 
 in the vicinity is held at a high price it would be necessary to 
 go farther out on the railway, or across the river into 
 Uruguay. 
 
 The coffee i)lantations (>f Brazil are already so extensive 
 as to make entrance into that business undesirable if nol im- 
 possible, except by the ])un'liase of planlatidns already in 
 beai-ing. Aside from coft'ee and rul)i)ei', llie chief agricultiii-al 
 pi-oducts are rice, cotton, sugar, !j( rha mate or Paraguay tea, 
 mandioca, and cacao, or cocoa. .Many manufactured goods 
 are now produced, maiidy of tli<' ordinary necessities of life, 
 leaving plenty of room for importation. It is desired to 
 increase such industries, inducements are otTcred by the 
 l^'ederal (Jovei-nment for establishing ironworks, the State of 
 Rio has granted large privileges to the first flour null, and a 
 subsidy to a firm making paper fi'om the reed fxtjitirus whicii
 
 382 THE SOUTH A:\IERICAN TOl'R 
 
 grows all alonj^ the coast. jManui'actures of ru})ber would he 
 very profitable on account of the 20 per cent export tax on 
 rubber and the high tariff on imports. fSteam laundries, fruit 
 eaMiicries, chemical works, and other industries may be inau- 
 gurated to advantage in various fjlaces. 
 
 From the United States is imported a. great variety of 
 articles, railway ears and locomotives, automobiles, machinery 
 of many kinds, sewing machfnes, typewriters, apples, general 
 merchandise, and other articles without end. 
 
 Railways are being rapidly extended and planned for the 
 future, and aside from the rubber business every kind of in- 
 dustry and commercial activity may be pursued amid agree- 
 able and healthful surroundings. 
 
 It is desirable that one wishing to enter into business of 
 any kind in South America should make the tour and see for 
 himself the character of the country and the opportunities 
 otTered. Also the poor consuls will be grateful, both those of 
 the United States in foreign countries and their representa- 
 tives here, if people veill use an atlas and a geographical 
 reader if nothing more before writing letters, so that they 
 will not bother these hard-worked oi^cials with absolutely 
 foolish questions. It should not be necessary for consuls to 
 give information which every schoolboy ought to possess, al- 
 though I fear he does not. 
 
 When children and grown people are ignorant of the names 
 of the capitals of the various States in tlie Union, it is per- 
 haps too much to expect them to know whether Lima is on 
 the East Coast or the West, or whether Argentina is a break- 
 fast food or a fish. Happily the ABC mediation has at last 
 put Argentina on the map. If my labors incite others to seek 
 further information and especially to make the delightful 
 South American Tour, I shall feel that I have performed a 
 genuine service.
 
 BIBLIOCxRAPIIY 
 
 A list of some recent books on South America is ai)pended. 
 liy no means complete, it includes works for the most part 
 easily obtainable. AVhile some of these present merely super- 
 ficial observation, and few profess to be exhaustive, all to tiie 
 average reader will be more or less instructive and entertain- 
 int?. A le*i:itimate difference of opinion exists as to people, 
 places, and ])os.sibilities; other contradictory assertions arise 
 from too hasty judgments. Errors, however, are generally of 
 minor importance, although in some cases wrong impressions 
 of people and places are conveyed. On account of rapid 
 (•banges the books published within the last five or eight years 
 are especially valuable; yet some of those earlier written sup- 
 ])Iy important information on particular subjects. To gain 
 a fair idea of the various countries several general works 
 should be read and a few of those on the individual Republics. 
 
 IMonographs on each of these, published by the Pan Ameri- 
 can Union, may be procured at $1.00 a copy. 
 
 The large and handsomely illustrated volumes on Peru, 
 Bolivia, Chile, and Brazil by !Marie Rol)inson Wright, with 
 some negligible extravagance of compliment, contain much 
 that is of value and hardly procurable elsewhere; historical 
 information and descriptions of the general aspect, the re- 
 sources, and the conditions of the various countries, presented 
 witli unusual fulness, accuracy, and elegance. 
 
 SOUTH AMERICA IX (iEXERAL 
 
 Pan American Union — Peace, Friendship, Commerce. 
 John Barrett. AVashington, Pan American Union. 1!»11, 
 $1.00. 
 
 Latin America, Its Rise and Progress. F. (Jarcia Calderon. 
 New York, Charles Scril)ner'.s Sons. l!ll;5. $;}.()0. 
 
 South America. AVilliam 1). Bnyee. Illustrated. Chicago, 
 Rand, ]\IcXally & Co. 1!)1.?. " .+•_»..')(».
 
 384 biblio(;rapiiy 
 
 Across Unknown South America. W. Savage Landor. 
 Boston, Little, Brown & Co. 1913. 
 
 Through South America. II. W. Van Dyke. New York, 
 Crowell Publishing Co. 1912. $2.00. 
 
 South America, Observations and Impressions. James 
 Bryce. New York, The IMaemillan Co. 1912. .$2.50. 
 
 South America. Forrest Koebel. With colored illustrations. 
 New York, The Macmillan Co. 1912. $5.00. 
 
 A Woman's Winter in South America. Charlotte Cam- 
 eron. Boston, Small, Maynard & Company. 1912. $1.50. 
 
 History op South America. C. E. Akers. New York, E. P. 
 Button & Co. 1912. $6.00. 
 
 South American Archaeology. T. A. Joyce. New York, 
 G. P. Putnam's Sons. 1912. $3.50. 
 
 South American Problems. Robert E. Speer. New York, 
 Student Volunteer Movement. 1912. 75 cents. 
 
 South America To-day (Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil). 
 G. E. B. Clemenceau. New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons. 
 1911. $2*.00. 
 
 FOLLOW^ING THE CONQUIST ADORES ALONG THE AnDES AND DOWN 
 
 the Amazon. H. J. Mozans. New York, D. Appleton 
 & Co. 1911. $3.50. 
 
 The Land op the Southern Cross. Charles Warren Cur- 
 rier. Spanish American Pub. Society. 1911. $1.50. 
 
 Across South America. Hiram Bingham. Boston, Hough- 
 ton, Mifflin Co. 1911. $3.50. 
 
 Great States op South America. Charles W. Domville- 
 Fife. New York, The Macmillan Co. 1910. $4.50. 
 
 Practical Guide to South America. Albert B. Hale. Bos- 
 ton, Small, ]\Iaynard & Company. 1909. $1.00. 
 
 The Andean Land. Two Volumes. Chase S. Osborn. Chi- 
 cago, A. C. McClurg & Co. 1909. $5.00. 
 
 A Pleasure Pilgrimage in South America. C. D. j\Iackel- 
 lar. London, John ^Inrray. 1908.
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY 385 
 
 The Other Americans. Arthur Ruhl. New York, Charles 
 Scribner's Sons. 1908. $2.00. 
 
 The Continent of Opportunity. Francis E. Clark. Now 
 York, Fleming 11. Kevell Co. 1907. $1.50. 
 
 The South Americ.vns. Albert B. Hale. Indianaixjlis, 
 Bobbs-Merrill Co. 1907. .$2.50. 
 
 Pan.\m.\ to Patagonia. Charles N. Pepper. A. C. McClnig 
 & Co. 1906. .$3.50. 
 
 The Land of Tomorrow. J. Orton Kerbey. New York, The 
 Author. 190C. $1.50. 
 
 Through Five Republics (includino- Brazil, I"ru<ruay, Argen- 
 tina ). P. F. Martin. New York, Dodd, .Mead & Co. 
 1906. .$5.00. 
 
 A Commercial Traveler in South America. Frank AViborg. 
 ]\IeClure Phillips. 1905. $1.00. 
 
 The South American Republics. Thomas C. Dawson. 2 
 Vols. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 1904. Eaeli $1.50. 
 
 The South American Year Book. The Louis Cassier Com- 
 pany, London. $8.50. 
 
 Exporters' Encyclopedia (Information as to shipments for 
 every country). New York. 1913. $7.50. 
 
 PANA.MA. 
 
 The Panama Guide. J. 0. Collins. Panama, Vibert cV: 
 Dixon. 1912. $1.50. 
 
 Panama and the Canal Today. II. A. Foilx's-Lindsay. 
 Boston, L. C Page & Co. 1912. $1.20. 
 
 Panama Canal, AVilvt it is, AVilvt it mkaxs. .John IJarrctt. 
 Washington, Pan American Pnion. 1!)1;>. $1.00. 
 
 l'.\\A.M.\, P.vsT AND I'uKSF.NT. l-'aniliaiii r.ish()i>. New VoiU, 
 Century Co. 1913. 75.-. 
 
 The Panama (Jateway. Jo.seph Jiueklin liishoj). New York, 
 Charles Scribner's Sons. 1913. $2.50.
 
 386 BIBLIOGRAPHY 
 
 Isthmian Tourists' Guide and Business Directory. Isth- 
 mian Tourists' Guide and Directory Co. 1912. .$1.50. 
 
 p]CUADOR. 
 
 Travels in the Wilds op P^cuador. Alfred Simpson. 
 
 Travels Among the Great Andes op the Equator. Sir 
 Edward Whymper. New York, Charles Scribner's Sons. 
 .$2.50. 
 
 PERU. 
 
 The Old and the New Peru. IM. R. Wright. Philadelphia, 
 George Barrie. 1908. $10.00. 
 
 Peru in 1906 by Alexander Garland. Translated by George 
 R. Gepp. London. 1907. 
 
 Peru, its Forms and its Present Civilization. C. R. Enock. 
 New York, Charles Scribner's Sons. 1908. $3.00. 
 
 The Incas op Peru. Sir Clements Markham. New York, E. 
 P. Dutton & Co. 1910. $3.00. 
 
 Peru op the Tv^entieth Century. P. F. IMartin. London, 
 Longmans, Green & Co. 1911, $4.20. 
 
 The Andes and the Amazon. C. R. Enock. New York, 
 Charles Scribner's Sons. 1910. $1.50. 
 
 A Search por the Apex op America. Annie S. Peck. New 
 York, Dodd, Mead & Co. 1911. $3.50. 
 
 Pachacamac. ]\Iax Uhle. The University of Pennsylvania. 
 New York, D. Appleton & Co. $10.00. 
 
 Peru, its Story, People and Religion. Geraldine Guinness. 
 New York, Fleming H. Revell Co. 1909. $2.50. 
 
 Peru (chiefly archaeological). E. George Squier. New 
 York, Harper & Bros. 1877. 
 
 The Conquest op Peru. William II. Prescott. 
 Guide to Peru. A. de Clairmont. 
 
 BOLIVIA. 
 
 Bolivia, the Central Highway op South America. M. R. 
 Wright. Philadelphia, George Barrie. 1907. $10.00.
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY 387 
 
 The Bolivian Andes. Sir ^lartin Conway. New York, 
 Harper & Bros. 1901. $3.00. 
 
 Across the Andes. C. J. Post. Now York, Ontinu: Pub. Co. 
 ]912. .$1.75. 
 
 A Search for the Apex op America. Annie S. Peck. New 
 York, Dodd, .Mead & Co. 1911. .$3.50. 
 
 CHILE. 
 
 jModern Chile. W. IT. Koebel. New York, The IMaeniillan 
 Co. 1913. $3.00. 
 
 Chile and her People of Today. Xevin 0. Winter. Bos- 
 ton, L. C. Page & Co. 1912. $3.00. 
 
 Chile; Economic and Social Progress. Julio Perez Canto. 
 Chicago, Rand, IMeXally & Co. 1912. $1.00. 
 
 The Republic of Chile. M. R. Wright. Phihidelphia, 
 George Barrie, 1905. $10.00. 
 
 Chile. G. F. Scott Elliott. Charles Scribner's Sons. 1911. 
 $3.00. 
 
 Aconcagua and Tierra del Fuego. Sir ^lartin Conway. 
 London, Cassell & Co. 1902. $3.00. 
 
 The Highest Andes. E. A. Fitz Gerald. New Yoi-k, Charles 
 Scribner's Sons. 1899. $G.OO. 
 
 ARGENTINA. 
 
 jMoDHRN Argentina. W. H. Koebel. Bo.ston, Dana Esles 
 and Coini)any. 1912. $3.50. 
 
 Ahgentink Year Book. Information as to Palents. lianks, 
 Industries, etc. liuenos Aires, Kobei-t (Ji'ant & Co. 
 London, Ledger, Son & Co. 1912. $1().(H». 
 
 Argentina Past and Prese.vt. "\V. II. Koilxl. Xrw Yoik, 
 Dodd, Mead & Co. 1911. .$4.00. 
 
 Argentina and Her People of Today. Xevin (). Winter. 
 Boston, L. C. Page & Co. l!M 1. $3.(10. 
 
 Argentine Plains and Andine (Jlacieus. Walter Lardcn. 
 New York, Charles Scril)ner's Sons. 1911. $3.75.
 
 388 BIBLIOGRAPHY 
 
 Argentina. W. A. Hirst. New York, Charles Seribner's 
 Sons. 1912. $3.00. 
 
 The Republic of Argentina (historical and descriptive). 
 A. Stuart Pennington. New York, A. Stokes & Co. 
 
 1910. $3.00. 
 
 The Argentine in the Twentieth Century (valuable as to 
 industries, business and resources). A. B. Martinez and 
 Maurice Lewandowski. Boston, Small, IMaynard & 
 Company. $3.50. 
 
 Forty Years in the Argentine Republic. Arthur E. 
 Shaw. London, Elkin & jMatthews. 
 
 The Argentine Republic (for exporters). New York, J. P. 
 Santamarina, 80 Wall St. 1911. $2.50. 
 
 PARAGUAY. 
 
 Unknown People in an Unknown Land. "W. Barbrooke 
 Grubb. London, Seeley & Co. 1911. 
 
 Pictorial Paraguay. A. K. Macdonald. C. H. Kelly. 
 
 1911. $4.00. 
 
 In Jesuit Land (Jesuit Missions of Paraguay and Argen- 
 tina). W. H. Koebel. 1912. $3.00. 
 
 Paraguay. M. E. Hardy. New York, Charles Seribner's 
 • Sons. 1913. $3.00. 
 
 URUGUAY. 
 
 Uruguay. W. H. Koebel. Charles Seribner's Sons. 1911. 
 $3.00. 
 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 The New Brazil. jM. R. Wright. Philadelphia, George 
 Barrie. 1908. $10.00. 
 
 Brazil. Pierre Denis. New York, Charles Seribner's Sons. 
 1911. $3.00. 
 
 United States of Brazil. Charles W. Domville-Fife. New 
 York, James Pott & Co. 1911. $2.50.
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY 389 
 
 Brazil in 1912 (for business nienj. J. C. Oakenfull. Dis- 
 tributed gratis by the Pan American Union. Washing- 
 ton. 
 
 Brazil and IIer People of Today. N. 0. "Winter. Boston, 
 L. C. Page & Co. 1910. $;].00. 
 
 The Sea and the Jungle. II. ^M, Tomlinson. New York, 
 E. P. Button & Co. 1913. $2.50. 
 
 The Flowing Road. Caspar Whitney. Philadelphia, J. B. 
 Lippincott Co. 1912. $3.00. 
 
 In the Amazon Jungle. A. Lange. New York, (J. P. Put- 
 nam's Sons. 1912. $2.50. 
 
 By Horse, Canoe, and Float Through the Wilderness op 
 Brazil. W. A. Cook. New York, American Tract So- 
 ciety. 1910. $1.25. 
 
 Brazil of Today. Arthur Bias (Interesting and valuable). 
 Lanneau & Despret, Nivelles, Belgium. 
 
 Brazil, the Amazons and the Coast. II. H. Smith. New 
 York, Charles Scribner's Sons. 1870. $5.00. 
 
 American Consul in Amazonia. James Orton Kerbey. 
 1911. $2.50.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Abruzzi, Duke of, 217. 
 
 Abuna, 352. 
 
 Acliiicaclii, 144. 
 
 Aconcagua, Mt., 41, 49, I.IO, 17i), 
 191, 201, 202; River, 199. 
 
 Aguapehy, R., 353. 
 
 Alagoas, 343. 
 
 Almagro, Diego de, 44, 61, 62, 118, 
 129, 130, 160. 
 
 Alpacas, 123. 
 
 Alto, 145, 147. 
 
 Alto Parana, 260. 
 
 Amazon, 98, 345. 
 
 Amfato, Mt., 109. 
 
 Ancolacalla, 147. 
 
 Ancon: Panama, 33; Peru, 87. 
 
 Ancud, Gulf, 192. 
 
 Antilla, 9. 
 
 Antofagasta, 64, 90. 156, 157, 158, 
 159; R. R., 150-153. 
 
 Antonina, 293, 294. 
 
 Apostoles, 201. 
 
 Apurimac, R., 122. 
 
 Araucanians, 160, 193. 
 
 Arequipa, 99, 102-106, 109. 
 
 Argentina, 213-267, 378-380. 
 
 Arica, 65, 146, 154; R. R. to La 
 Paz, 146, to Tacna, 155. 
 
 Aricoma Pass, 110. 
 
 Art Galleries: Lima, 73, 79; San- 
 tiago, 183; Buenos Aires. 242, 
 243; Asuncion, 269; Rio de 
 Janeiro, 322, 323. 
 
 Artigas, Jose, 272, 273. 
 Aspinvvall, \Ym. H., 19. 
 
 390 
 
 Asuncion, 257, 263, 268-270 
 Atacama, 157. 
 Atahuallpa, 44, 45, 114. 
 Audieneia, 62, 03, 130, 101. 218. 
 Ayacucho, 46, 97, 131. 
 Aymaras, 124, 127, 135. 
 Ayolas, Juan de, 217, 261. 
 
 Baggage, 4. 
 
 Bahia, 343, 353-357. 
 
 Balboa: Docks, 38, 43; Hill. 13; 
 
 Vasco Nimez de, 13. 
 Balde, 214. 
 
 Ballivian, Dr. Manuel Vicente, 139, 
 Balsas, 40, 125. 
 Banks, 362. 
 Barbados, 358. 
 Barranco, 87. 
 Bas Obispo, 24, 25. 
 Beagle Channel, 192. 
 Beira Mar, 330. 
 Belem, 345-348. 
 Bello Horizonte. 341, 342, 
 Beni, R., 140, 352. 
 Bio-bio, R., 193. 194. 
 Black Range, 56, 58. 
 Blanco, R., 200. 
 Bodegas, 210, 211. 
 Bogota. 39 
 Bohio, 25. 
 Bolivar, General Simon, 63, 64, 
 
 131. 
 Bolivia, 99. 123, 127-153, 376, 377. 
 Botanical Gardens: Kingston, 9; 
 
 Lima, 81 ; Arequipa, 105; Sa»
 
 INDEX 
 
 391 
 
 tia<;o, 182; Buenos Aires, 24(1; 
 Montevideo, 2S(); Uio de 
 JiUieiro, .'i3.'J ; Trinidad, 3.5S. 
 
 Botafogo ]5ay, 331. 
 
 Brazil, 286-359, 380-382. 
 
 Bridgetown, 358. 
 
 Buenaventura, 39. 
 
 Buenos Aires, 204, 207, 217-254. 
 
 C'abral, I'cdro Alvarez, 280. 
 
 Caclieuta, 207. 
 
 Cachipascana, Lake, 109. 
 
 Cajamarca, 45, 56. 
 
 Caldera, 159. 
 
 Cali, 39. 
 
 Callao, 30, 43, 49, 59-01, 99. 
 
 Calliimlli, 193. 
 
 Campinas. 304. 
 
 t'anal. Panama, 13-18. 
 
 Canelones, 283. 
 
 Cape Horn, 191. 
 
 CarAz, 50. 
 
 Caribbean Sea, 8. 
 
 Casapalca, 94. 
 
 Cata, 147. 
 
 Catacaos, 47. 
 
 Cathedrals: Santiago de Cuba, 9; 
 Panama, 32; Lima, 09; Are- 
 quipa, 103; Cu/co, 110; La 
 Paz, 130; Santiago, 173; 
 Buenos Aires, 227; Monte- 
 video, 275; Sao Paulo, 302; 
 Rio de Janeiro, 318; Para, 
 340; Bahia, 356. 
 
 Ca.\aml)u, 343. 
 
 Cayabamba, 41. 
 
 Cearfi, 344, 350. 
 
 Cebolhilio, 1 III. 
 
 Cemeteries: \ alparaiso, 107; San- 
 tiago, !8.")-lS7; J^ueiKis Aires, 
 250. 
 
 Central Kailway of I'ciii, !lI-95. 
 
 Cerro de Paseo, 5S, 91, 95 !»7. 
 
 ( Vrro Oigante, 13. 
 
 Cerro San Cristol)al : Lima, 83. 
 
 84, 85; Santiago, 185. 
 Cliaeabuco, 161, 215, 219. 
 Cbachani, 101, 102, 109. 
 Ciiaco, 268. 
 
 Chagres, R., 13, 22, 23, 24. 
 Clian Chan, 50-53. 
 Cliirla, 94. 
 
 (hi If, 154-200, 377, 378. 
 Chili, II., 103. 
 Ciiillan, 193. 
 Chimborazo, 39, 41. 
 Chimbote, 50; K. K., 54, 55. 
 Chinui, Grand, 51, 52, 53. 
 Cliiquian, 58. 
 Cliiri(]ni, 27. 
 Ciiolo^. 73, 135. 
 Ciiolula, 89. 
 CIiii()(]uequirau, 122. 
 Choriilos. (i5. SO. 
 Chosica, 91, 92. 
 Christ of tile Andes, 204, 205. 
 Chulpa, 124. 
 Clnino, 138. 
 Cliupe, 13,5. 
 ('lm(|uiagni]lo, 141. 
 Cluuiniaim, R., 129, 134. 
 ('liiU|uisaca, sec Sucre. 
 Climate, 2, 40. 
 Clothing, 4. 
 Coast Range, 55. 
 Cochabaniba, 148. 
 Coehrane, .Admiral. 03, 102, 195 
 Coellio. Conzalo, 308. 
 ColTee, 304, 305. 
 Colastine, 205. 
 Colombia, 2, 39. 
 Ccdon, 12. 18-21. 
 ('(donia, 2S3. 
 Columlius, 8, 13, 21. 
 Commercial Travelers, ,30(), 368. 
 Ctnici'|i(iun, l!t.{, I'.M,
 
 392 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Conchi, 152. 
 
 Condors, 205. 
 
 Constitucion, 192. 
 
 Conway, Sir Martin, 140, 146. 
 
 Copacabana, 126. 
 
 Copiapfi, 159. 
 
 Coquimbo, 157, 159. 
 
 Corcovado, 312, 334, 335. 
 
 Cordillera Blanca, 58. 
 
 Cordillera Real, 125. 
 
 Cordoba, 214. 
 
 Corocoro, 147. 
 
 Coronel, 192, 193. 
 
 Coropima. Mt., 41, 102. 
 
 Corral, 195. 
 
 Corrientes, 257, 258, 267. 
 
 Cortez, Hernando, 9. 
 
 Cotopaxi, 39, 41. 
 
 Cristobal, 21. 
 
 Credit, 361. 
 
 Crucero Alto, 109. 
 
 Cruz, Oswaldo, Institute, 327. 
 
 Culebra, 14, 15, 24, 25, 26. 
 
 Cumbre, 97, 198, 203, 205. 
 
 Curytiba, 293, 294. 
 
 Cuzco, 90, 106, 109, 110, 111-122. 
 
 Darien, 27. 
 
 Desaguadero, R., 124, 152. 
 
 Desolation Isl., 195. 
 
 Diamantina, 342. 
 
 Docks: Callao, 60; Valparaiso, 
 163; Taleahuano, 193; Buenos 
 Aires, 253 ; Rosario, 264 ; San- 
 tos, 296; Rio de Janeiro, 310, 
 316; Para, 345; Manaos, 348. 
 
 Duran, 40. 
 
 Earthquakes, 59, 70. 103. 107, 154, 
 
 165, 188, 208, 209. 
 Ecuador, 36, 39-42, 373. 
 Empire, 25. 
 Entre Rios, 258, 265. 
 
 Esinrito Santo, 343. 
 Estancias, 215, 254, 255. 
 Et<^n, 48. 
 
 Kuropcan Tourists, 11. 
 Expense of Journey, 3. 
 
 Falkland Islands, 192, 197. 
 Fazendas, 304. 
 Fitzgerald, E. A., 201. 
 Florianopolis, 292. 
 Fortaleza, 344. 
 Frijoles, 25. 
 
 Galera Tunnel, 94. 
 
 Gamboa, 25. 
 
 Garay, Juan de, 217. 
 
 Gatun, 15, 16, 17, 23, 24. 
 
 Geographical Societies: Lima, 82; 
 
 La Paz, 139; Rio de Janeiro, 
 
 319. 
 Godin, Madame, 351. 
 Goethals, Col. George W., 15. 
 Gorgas, Col. Wm. C, 34. 
 Gorgona, 25. 
 Goyllarisquisga, 96. 
 Grace, W. R., 4, 61, 74, 139, 166. 
 Grau, Admiral, 64. 
 Guanabara Bay, 308. 
 Guaqui, 124, 125, 127. 
 Guaraja Bay, 345. 
 Guaranis, 263. 
 Guarina, 144. 
 Guaruja, 297. 
 Guaruja-Mirim, 351, 352. 
 Guayaquil, 36, 37, 39, 40. 
 Guianas, 2. 
 
 Harvard Observatory, 105. 
 
 History: Panama, 13, 14; Peru, 44- 
 46, 61-65; Inca, 112-114; Bo- 
 livia, 129-132; Chile, 160-162; 
 Argentina, 217-220; Paraguay, 
 261-263; Uruguay, 272-274; 
 Brazil. 286-289, 308, 309.
 
 INDEX 
 
 393 
 
 Horn, CaiM', ]!)!, 105. 
 
 Hotels : Colon, IS, 1!); raiiaiiKi. 2(;. 
 
 27, 28; Quito, 42; Tnijillo, 50; 
 
 Chiniboto, 55; Callao, Ul ; 
 
 Lima, GG-U8 ; Chosica, 92 ; 
 
 Oroya, 95; C. de Pasco, 9G; 
 
 Mollendo, 99; Arequipa, 102; 
 
 Cuzco, 112; La Pa/, 129, 133; 
 
 Valparaiso, 1G3, 1U4, 1G5; 
 
 Santiago, 170, 171; ^Vlcndoza, 
 
 208; Ihionos Aires, 222-225; 
 
 Rosario, 2G4; Asuncion, 2G9; 
 
 Montcviedo, 274, 275; Santos, 
 
 296; Sao Paulo, 300, 301; Rio 
 
 de Janeiro, 311-314; Pctropo- 
 
 lis, 338; Para, 347; Bahia, 
 
 355. 
 Huacapistana, 98. 
 Iluailas Valley, 54, 55, 56. 
 lluaina Potosf, Mt., 145. 
 Hualiata Pass, 145. 
 Ihuunan, 88. 
 
 Huancayo, 91, 95, 97, 122. 
 Huancliacho, 51. 
 Huandoy, Mt., 57. 
 .llui'muco, 98. 
 lluaraz, 54, 58. 
 lluascar, 44, 111, 114. 
 Iluascaran, Mt., 41, 49, 5G-58, 203. 
 Iluatanay, R., Ill, 119. 
 Ilumayta, 2G7. 
 
 Icarahy, 340 . 
 
 Ignorance, 3G3, 382. 
 
 Iguassi'i Falls, 257, 25S-2(in, 207, 
 
 290, 291. 
 Illanii)u. Ml., II, 12.-). 127, 12,S. H4, 
 
 14.-), 1 IC). 
 Illiniaiii, Mt.. 4 1. 12.-), 127. 12S, 
 
 140. 
 Ini])orts, Cliarai'tcr of, 371-373. 
 
 Incas, Empire and Ruins, 113-llfi, 
 
 117-122. 
 Injurious Practices, 3G3-3G7. 
 inijuisition Mall, 75. 
 Iiiti-Karka, 125, 12G. 
 Lpiicjue, 155-157. 
 Iquitos, 97, 98, 349. 
 Irala, Capt. Martinez de, 261. 
 Island of Sun, 124, 125. 
 Island of iloon, 125. 
 Isthmus of Panama, 12-35. 
 
 Jamaica, 10. 
 
 Jamiraya Canon, 147. 
 
 .latnha, 357. 
 
 Jauja, 97. 
 
 Jauru, R., 353. 
 
 Jesuits, 2G0, 287. 
 
 Joao VI, Prince, 288, 317, 322, 
 
 Juarez Ines, 187. 
 
 Judiaiiy, 299. 
 
 Juliaea, 99, 109. 110, 123. 
 
 Juncal, 200, 203. 
 
 Junfn: Peru, 95; Argentina, 215. 
 
 Kingston, 10. 
 
 La Candelaria, 2G1. 
 
 La Ouayra Falls, 2G0. 
 
 La Ilerradura, 8G. 
 
 La Merced, 97, 9,S. 
 
 La Paz, 99, 128-141, 144, 150. 
 
 La Plata, 255, 25G . River, 220. 
 
 La Punta, 59, 87 . 
 
 La Ray a. 111. 
 
 La Viuda, Mt.. 9G. 
 
 Lagoa dos Patos, 291. 
 
 Lagunillas, 109. 
 
 Las Cascadas, 25. 
 
 Las C'uevas, 192, 201 . 
 
 Leguia, A. B., cx-Prcs.. 71. 85. 
 
 Lesseps. Ferdimmd de, 14, 21. 
 
 Lil)raries: Lima, 81; La Pa/, 1.39;
 
 no4- 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Santiago, 184; Buenos Aires, 
 245, 246; Asuncion, 269; 
 Montevideo, 277; Rio Grande 
 do Sul, 291; Sao Paulo, 302; 
 Rio de Janeiro, 321, 322; 
 Bahia, 356; Bridgetown, 358. 
 
 Licenses, Trading, 368-371. 
 
 Liebig, 283. 
 
 Lima, 59, 60, 61, 66-85. 
 
 Limon Bay, 15. 
 
 Lircai, 178. 
 
 Llai-Llai, 169, 199. 
 
 Llamas, 123, 134. 
 
 Llaiigamieo Gorge, 57. 
 
 Llanquihue Lake, 195. 
 
 Lluta Valley, 147. 
 
 Loa R., 153. 
 
 Lopez: Carlos Antonio, 262; Fran- 
 cisco, 262, 268, 269. 
 
 Los Andes, 198, 199. 
 
 Lota, 193, 194. 
 
 Luque, Hernando de, 44. 
 
 Llirin Valley, 87, 88. 
 
 Macchu Pichu, 121. 
 
 Mackenna, 215; Benj. Vicuna, 178, 
 
 180. 
 Mackenzie College, 303. 
 McKinley, Mt., 56, 107. 
 Madera or Madeira-Mamore R. R., 
 
 141, 351, 352. 
 Magdalena, 87 ; Cliannel, 196. 
 Magellan, Straits of, 191, 195-197. 
 Majes Valley, 102. 
 Maldonado, 283. 
 Malleco R., 193. 
 Mamore R., 141. 
 Manaos, 348, 349. 
 !Manzaiiillo, 20. 
 Mapocho R., 160, 170, 183. 
 Marajo, 347. 
 Maranhao, 344, 345. 
 :Marailon, R., 48, 97, 349. 
 
 Mar del Plata, 25G. 
 
 Markham, Sir Clements, 142, 143. 
 
 Markets: Panama, 32; Lima, 74 
 Arequipa, 104; Sicuani, 111 
 La Paz, 137; Santiago, 184 
 Buenos Aires, 251; Montevi 
 deo, 279; Rio de .Janeiro, 319 
 Para, 348. 
 
 Matachin, 25 . 
 
 Matarani Bay, 100. 
 
 Mate, see Yerba Mate. 
 
 MattoGrosso, 351, 352. 
 
 Matucana, 90, 93. 
 
 Maule R., 192. 
 
 Maysi, Cape, 8. 
 
 Meiggs, Henry, 54, 91 ; ]Monte, 94. 
 
 Melendez, 48. 
 
 Mendoza, 191, 198, 205, 207, 208- 
 211. 
 
 Mendoza Pedro de. 217. 
 
 Mercedario, Mt., 202. 
 
 Mercedes, 216. 
 
 Minas Geraes, 341, 342. 
 
 Mindi, 23. 
 
 ^Mineral Springs: Agua de Jesus, 
 108; Yura, 108, 109; Puente 
 del Inca, 202; Caclieuta, 207; 
 Caxambu, 343. 
 
 Mines: Coal, 55, 193, 194; Copper, 
 51, 56, 96, 147; Diamond, 342; 
 Gold, 56, 141, ,341; Silver. 51, 
 56, 96, 151, 152; Vanadium, 
 96. 
 
 Miraflores: Panama, 16, 26; Peru, 
 65. 
 
 Miramar, 169. 
 
 Misiones, 258, 260. 
 
 Misti, Mt., 101, 102, 100, 107, 109. 
 
 Mitre, B., 219. 
 
 Moche, 53. 
 
 Moleno, 147. 
 
 Mollendo, 99, 100. 
 
 Montana, 90, 97.
 
 INDEX 
 
 395 
 
 Monte Lirio, 24. 
 
 Montes, President, 132. 
 
 Montevideo, 192. 25G, 274-282, 285, 
 280, 2!)1. 
 
 Morgan, Henry, 13. 
 
 Moro, 58. 
 
 Morococlia, Do, 96. 
 
 Morro Vellio Mine, 288, 342. 
 
 Mt. Hope, 23. 
 
 Mountain Sickness, 90, 100. 
 
 Muelii R., 51. 
 
 Muniz, 216. 
 
 Museums: Lima, 78; La Paz, 139; 
 Santiago, 183, 189, 190; 
 Buenos Aires, 243-245; Monte- 
 video, 275, 276, 278; Sao 
 Paulo, 303; Rio de Janeiro, 
 317,319, 325; Parfi, 347. 
 
 Nanduty Lace, 270. 
 
 New Gatiin, 23. 
 
 New Orleans, 8. 
 
 Niagara, 259. 
 
 Nictheroy, 308, 340. 
 
 Nitrates, 157, 158. 
 
 Nonibre de Dios, 13. 
 
 North Americans, unpopular, 361. 
 
 Novo Friburgo, 340. 
 
 Nusta Espaiia, 122. 
 
 Obrajes, 140. 
 
 Old Panama, 13, 34. 
 
 Olientaytambo, 121. 
 
 Open Door, 216. 
 
 Organ Mts., 307, 339. 
 
 Oroya, 94, 95; R. R., 89-95. 
 
 Oruro, 151; — Antofagasta R. R., 
 
 151-153. 
 Osorno, 195. 
 Ouro Prcto, 342. 
 
 Pacasinayo, 49. 
 Pachaci'imae, 87-89. 
 
 Pacific Ocean, 43; Discovered, 13. 
 
 Packing, 365. 
 
 Paita, 46, 47, 48. 
 
 Palca, 98. 
 
 Pampa de Arricros, 109. 
 
 Paniparomas, 58. 
 
 Pan American Railway, 91, 97. 
 
 Panama: Canal, 14-18; City, 26- 
 
 34; Republic, 27; Hats, 47. 
 Pao do Assucar, 307, 331. 
 Paqucta, Isl., 310 . 
 Para, 140, 344, 345-349. 
 Paraguay, 267-270, 380; River, 
 
 267, 353. 
 Paraliyba, 344. 
 Parana R., 213, 220, 257, 261, 264; 
 
 City, 265; State, 291. 
 Paranagua, 293, 294. 
 Pardo, Manuel, 64. 
 Pariiia, Pt., 46, 47. 
 Patacamaya, 150. 
 Patagonia, 213. 
 Paulo AiFonso Falls, 357. 
 Pedras, 357. 
 
 Pedro I, 288; II. 289, 339. 
 Pedro Miguel, 16, 24, 26. 
 Pelotas, 292. 
 Penadas, 357. 
 PonitcnU-s, 206. 
 
 IVua, Rocjue Saenz, President, 220. 
 Pereiu's 98. 
 Pernambueo, 343. 
 Peru, 44-124, 373 376. 
 Peru, Alto, 130. 
 Peruvian Corporation, 98. 
 Petropolis, 338-340. 
 I'ieliinclia, Mt., 42. 
 I'ieliu Picliu. Mt., 101. 102, 106. 
 Pileomayo R., 26S. 
 Pillar. Cape, 195. 
 I'iranlias, 357. 
 Pirauliy, 344. 
 Piriapolis, 284.
 
 3f)6 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Pisac, 122. 
 
 Pisiigua, 156, 157. 
 
 Piura, 44, 47. 
 
 Pizarro, Francisco, 44, '45, 62 ; 
 
 Gonzalo, 129; Hernando, 62. 
 Ponta Grossa, 291. 
 Poopo Lake, 124, 152, 155. 
 Port Antonio, 10. 
 Port au Spain, 358. 
 Port Royal, 10. 
 Port Stanley, 192, 197. 
 Porto Alegre, 291, 292. 
 Porto Bello, 13, 21. 
 Porto Velho, 351, 352. 
 Posadas, 257, 258, 267. 
 Potosf, 148, 151. 
 Prat, Arturo, 64 
 Prescott, 44. 
 Prison, 278. 
 Puca Alpa, 97. 
 
 Puente del Inca, 191, 201, 206. 
 Puerto Bermudez, 98. 
 Puerto Jessup, 98. 
 Puerto Montt, 192, 193, 195. 
 Puerto Pando, 140. 
 Puna, 40. 
 Puno, 123, 124. 
 Punta Arenas, 192, 193, 196. 
 Punta Ballena, 283. 
 Punta de las Vacas, 200. 
 Pygmy City, 93. 
 
 Quichiias, 124, 12" 
 Quito, 39, 42. 
 
 135.. 
 
 Railroads: Panama, 23; Guaya- 
 quil-Quito, 40-42 ; Paita-Mar- 
 anon, 48; Chimbote-Recuaj^ 
 54; Central Railway of Peru 
 (Oroya), 91; Cerro de Pasco 
 R. R., 95; Southern Railway 
 of Peru, 99, 109'; Guaqui-La 
 Paz, 127; Arica-La Paz, 146; 
 
 Aiitofa^fasta - Oruro-La Paz, 
 150; Arica-Tacna, 155; Val- 
 paraiso-Santiago, 169; Ciiilian 
 Central Railway, 192; Trans- 
 Andine Railway, 198, 213; 
 Buenos Aires-Posadas-Asun- 
 cion, 257 ; Montevideo-Sao 
 Paulo, 290; Santos-Sao Paulo, 
 298; Sao Paulo-Rio de Ja- 
 neiro, 305 ; Madeira-Mamorfi, 
 351. 
 
 Recife, 343. 
 
 Recuay, 56, 97 . 
 
 Reloncavi Gulf, 195. 
 
 Rimac R., Valley, 46, 91, 92, 99. 
 
 Rio Blanco, 200. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro, 290, 295, 305, 306- 
 340. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro Harbor, 306-308, 
 309-311. 
 
 Rio Grande do Norte, 344. 
 
 Rio Grande do Sul, 290, 291, 292. 
 
 Riobamba, 40, 351. 
 
 Root, Secretary, 71, 72, 78. 
 
 Rosario, 264. 
 
 Rubber, 349, 350, 
 
 Rufino, 215. 
 
 Rugs, 123. 
 
 Sacsahuaman, 114, 116, 119, 120. 
 
 Sajama, Mt., 41, 150. 
 
 Salaverry, 46, 50. 
 
 Samanco, 58. 
 
 San Bias Indians, 22. 
 
 San Cristobal, see Cerro. 
 
 San Ignacio Mini, 261. 
 
 San Juan, 9. 
 
 San Lorenzo Fort, 22. 
 
 San Luis, 214, 344. 
 
 San Martin, General, Jose de, 03, 
 
 64, 207, 219, 228. 
 San Ramon, 98. 
 San Salvador, 8.
 
 INDEX 
 
 397 
 
 Sand Dunes, 101. 
 
 Santa E., 54. 
 
 Santa Ana, 201. 
 
 Santa Catharina, 292. 
 
 Santa F6, 265, 266. 
 
 Santa Lucia, 170, 179, 
 
 Santa Rosa, 214. 
 
 Santa Rosa de los Andes, 199. 
 
 Santiago, 170-190, 198. 
 
 Santiago de Cuba, 9. 
 
 Santos, 286, 287, 280, 290, 205- 
 298. 
 
 Sao Paulo, 295-305; City, 300-304, 
 343. 
 
 Sao Salvador, 354. 
 
 Sfio Vicente, 287, 297. 
 
 Sapyranga, 292. 
 
 Saracociia Lake, 199. 
 
 Sarmiento, Dr., 220. 
 
 Sergipe, 343. 
 
 Serra do 5Iar, 298, 339, 
 
 Siieppard, T. Clive, 129. 
 
 Sicuani, 111. 
 
 Smelters, 90, 97. 
 
 Smyth Channel, 192. 
 
 Sorata, 144-146. 
 
 Soroche, 90, 106, 
 
 South American Trade, 300-382, - 
 
 Southern R. R. of Peru, 99-110. 
 
 Spanish Language, 3, 
 
 Steamship Lines : To Panama, from 
 New York, 6, 7; from New 
 Orleans, 8; from San Francis- 
 co, 11; from Europe, 11; Pan- 
 ama to Guayaquil, Callao, Val- 
 paraiso, 30, 50; Callao to Val- 
 paraiso, Montevideo, and Eu- 
 rope, 99, 191, 192; Parana 
 River, 257, 258, 263, 264; 
 Buenos Aires to Montevideo, 
 204; Buenos Aires or Monte- 
 video to Rio de Janeiro and 
 New York, 289, 290, 341; Rio 
 de Janeiro to Europe, 341. 
 
 Stevens, John F., 15, 25. 
 Sucre, 149. 
 Sugar Estates, 50, 61. 
 Supe, 51, 88. 
 
 Tabornilla, 25, 
 
 Tacna, 05, 155, 
 
 Taica, 192. 
 
 Talcaiiuano, 194. 
 
 Taltal, 156. 
 
 Tamarugal, 157. 
 
 Tambo Valley, 101. 
 
 Tarapaca, 04, 65, 157. 
 
 Tarma, 97, 98. 
 
 Tax on Samples, 368-371. 
 
 Theatres: Panama, 30; Lima, 74; 
 
 La Paz, 139; Santiago, 184; 
 
 Buenos Aires, 248, 249; Santa 
 
 T6, 266; Montevideo, 275, 276; 
 
 Sao Paulo, 301 ; Rio de 
 
 Janeiro, 323; Para, 347; 
 
 Manaos, 349. 
 Tlierezopolis, 340. 
 Tiahuanaco, 127, 142, 143. 
 Ticlio, 94. 
 
 Tierra del Fuego, 197. 
 Tigre R., 254. 
 Tijuca, Mt., 337, 338. 
 Tingo, 102. 
 Tirapata, 110, 111. 
 Titicaea Lake, 124-127, l.")5. 
 Toro Pt., 22, 
 Trans. Andine R. R., 198-208, 213- 
 
 217. 
 Trinidad, 358. 
 Trujillo, 44. 50, 51, 
 Tueumaii, 219. 
 Tulumayii i;.. Hi). 
 Tumhe.s, 44, 40. 
 Tu|iae Amaru, 1 IS, \:w. 
 Tupi/.a. l.">2. 
 Tupungato, Mt.. 2Ul, 202.
 
 ;{■;;; 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Ucayali R., 07, 122, 349. 
 
 Uhle, Dr. Max, S!i. 
 
 Urcos, 111. 
 
 Unifio, 2!)0. 
 
 Urubanibu, 121. 
 
 Uruguay, 279-285, 380; R., 220. 
 
 Uspallata, 206. 
 
 Uyuni, 152. 
 
 Valdivia, 194; Pedro de, 170, 187, 
 
 188, 195. 
 Valparaiso, 36, 99, 1()3-168, 192. 
 Valverde, Father, 45. 
 Vedia, 215. 
 Venezuela, 2. 
 Vespucci, Amerigo, 287. 
 Viacha, 128, 147, 150. 
 Viceroys, 62. 
 
 Victoria, 343; Falls, 259. 
 Vicunas, 123, 155. 
 Vilcabamba R., 122. 
 Vilcamayu, 111. 
 Vilcanota, 111. 
 Villa Bella, 352. 
 Villa Devoto, 216. 
 Villa Enearnacion. 263. 
 Villa Mercedes, 214. 
 
 Villa Murtinho, 352. 
 
 Villa Velha, 294. 
 
 ViliazOn, Kiiodoro, President, 132. 
 
 Vina del Mar, 16K, 171. 
 
 Virgcnes, Cape, 195, 197. 
 
 Vitcos, 122. 
 
 Vitor, 102. 
 
 Wallace, J. F., 14, 15. 
 
 Waterfalls: Iguassfi, 257, 258; La 
 Guayra, 260 ; Uberaponga, 
 260; Herval, 292; Paulo Af- 
 fonso, 357. 
 
 Watling's Isl., 8. 
 
 Western Tourists, 11. 
 
 White Range, 56. 
 
 Whymper, Edward, 41. 
 
 Windward Cliannel, 8. 
 
 Yankee Peril, 361. 
 
 Yellow Fever. 39. 
 
 Verba Mate, 270, 271, 294. 
 
 Yucay, 122. 
 
 Yungas, 140. 
 
 Yungay, 56, 57. 
 
 Yura, 108, 109. 
 
 Zurbriggen, 20L
 
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