LIBRARY UNrvnwirr or m Wa W\ K9k- k «4f aif^rr THE STORY OF THE DEANERY, DURHAM. s i§T \4\ti h llil 111 ] nil ititfi THE STORY OF THE DEANERY, DURHAM, 1070-1912, BY G. W. KITCHIN, D.D., F.S.A., Dean. DURHAM : THOMAS CALDCLEUGH, 45, SADDLER STREET. 1912. ILLUSTRATIONS South Front of Deanery Frontispiece. Ground Plan of Deanery page 13 Norman Undercroft 17 Plan of First Floor of Deanery 21 Usher Gate and Entrance to Old Dormitory 25 North Side of Prior's Chapel, etc 29 Prior's Chapel from S.W 29 Chapel Undercroft 3° Doorway to Spiral Staircase 35 Groining of the Kitchen 42 Roof of Monastic Kitchen 45 Restoration of Prior's Refectory (Monks' Dormitory ) 47 Two Photographs of the Refectory as at present 47 Windows on the West Side of the Refectory 48 Restoration of the Prior's Solarium (Drawing Room) 50 Two Photographs of present Drawing Room 51 Blocked-up Perpendicular Window 5 1 Coat of Arms of Dean Spencer Cowper 5 2 Restoration of the Prior's " Camera Minor " (now Library) 54 Two Photographs of the Dean's Library 54 East End of Deanery 54 Sketch of the East End of the Deanery (circ.) 1800 55 Remains of a Decorated Window 56 Bosses of the Ceiling of King James' Room 62 Plans of the large Norman Cesspool 68 Spring of Ceiling of Retainers' Hall 7° Plan of Second Floor of the House 93 Corbel of Mr. Douglas as a boy 94 Spring of Ceiling of the " Camera Inferior " 97 A7A 7333 879 PREFACE. "\ \J HEN I look at this ancient Deanery, the beautiful roofs and ceilings, the warm chambers, all long ago built on a noble scale, — I realise that I am nothing more than a passing hermit-crab. This is my choice shell, too large for me in truth, and needing constant loving care to preserve the good looks of a life of centuries. We old people think there is especial charm and nobleness in age. Here then I have abode : — a poor unarmed creature, too feeble to drag my house about with me ; too late to add to the growth of it ; only a temporary holder of it in the great sea of the Church flood of to-day. Were I a writer of fables, my hermit-crab should talk to an elegant artificer, the snail. He would call his friend to make his eyes as large as he could on their long necks, to mark with respect the convolute markings, and the solidity of this fine abode. But the snail could reply with crushing coolness. Your home cannot be contrasted with mine ; I made mine myself, I have grown with it and in it, I can carry it with me whithersoever I care to go ; and it is beautiful and light — whereas you, a poor limp being, only found your home knocking about in the waves — you did but crawl in, and can but make it your excuse for your own incompetence ; but my home is a part of me ; I am proud of it ; "a poor thing, but all my own ;" while you are but the sojourner of a moment, powerless, and soon gone. Your successors may not even give you a kindly thought. io PREFACE. This is why I have endeavoured to write this little book, to make clear the true value of this fine home for future Deans. Now-a-days there is a prejudice against Prefaces. Our dedications no longer bid for patronage. We do not call on some friendly Muse to be inspired, may be after dinner, to make some graceful sonnet on our literary venture. In our days, with keen critics on the watch, a book must have an object proper, and be fairly done ; then, and by no other means, may it find acceptance. There is, however, one real use for prefaces. It gives the author opportunity to let his readers know how much he owes to his friends. In this case their kindest help and sympathy have been the making of it. What could I have done without the help of Canon Fowler ? His Account Rolls of Durham Abbey form a monumental work, whereon are engraved ten thousand touches and lines of medieval life. Nor was he a helper only by the Rolls : he is always the kindest of critics, with a fresh sagacity of suggestion. I thank him with all my heart. As also I do those friends who have suggested matters not noticed by me. I have been also most fortunate in collecting illustrations : my son's delightful restorations of the old prae-reformation condition of the house breathe life into the ancient bones of the monastic home of five centuries. And the pencil of Mr. Footitt, as graceful as it is unerring, ever helps the interpretation of the true look of the house, so hard to be given by mere word-painting. Yet it may be that the Preface is most of all worthy of my gratitude because in it I can try to express my own thankfulness for being permitted to dwell in this shelter for an old man's last days. The record of the PREFACE. ii ancient chambers makes the past live again, and will, I hope, be an inspiration for all who may hereafter have the good fortune to live in this Deanery. For every hermit-crab must be ready, at his due hour, to give place to another. May this home give strength and piety to my successors, that they may be stronger in their own way, and less timid of action and work than has been the habit of the present occupier of this ancient home. xavygn -ivyaaHivD wann xax^D THE DEANERY, DURHAM A BOUT five years after the Conquest, William I had to name a Bishop for Durham, and chose a man of Lorraine, no native of the north, one Walcher, to undertake this dangerous task. The irritated and turbulent men of his new northern March would give nothing but a sullen obedience, if even that : for they looked back angrily at the older times, the Anglian ways, the native clergy among whom they had lived. They needed indeed a prudent and a sympathetic Bishop. This Walcher failed to be ; a man from abroad, apparently quite unconscious as to the dangers around him, he soon gathered round him the popular ill-will. He ought to have shown patience with his diocese, with a quiet firmness, as of one who felt something for the under-race ; he should have been one to bring the goodwill of Christian life as the sunshine in a dark place. On the contrary, he failed as bishop and ruler. Stern without judgement, he insisted on a heavy taxation. The soreness grew ; and in the end his rule was suddenly cut short in Gateshead Church by his murder at the hands of his infuriate people. Yet there was good in him. Symeon, who doubtless remembered him at Durham, describes him as "a man of white locks, of a commanding reverence, one who by an honourable course of life, and purity of manners was fully worthy of his distinguished office at Durham." 1 It is also clear that he understood the great importance of the site of Durham Church and Castle ; he saw that it had the makings of a stout fortress, a height for strong walls and a firm garrison. 1 Symeon, Book III, ch. 18. 14 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. For Durham was the bulwark of the North ; a refuge against any outburst of ill-will of the Picts from across the Tweed, or from the seething Anglian folk betwixt Tyne and Tweed. There stood already the stone church built by Bishop Aldhun, as a home for the " corpus incorruptum " of much-wandering St. Cuthbert, and all the ancient buildings of the Castle, on the edge of that sharp hill which looks down ever on Durham city and river. Here too was that wonderful and ancient Chapel of the Castle, probably the oldest Norman work in England, built no doubt by those Norman artificers whom Ethelred the Unready had brought into the north. 2 Beside this there was but little on the hill-top ; for Symeon tells us 3 that " A place he there found fortified by nature ; and yet far from easy to be made habitable ; a dense thicket of trees and brush-wood filled the whole surface. Just in the middle of the hill-top was a small level space, at that time used for ploughing and arable culture. To this Aldhun summoned all his people, and, helped by the men of the Earl of Northumbria, Uhtred, he cut down and rooted up all the trees and tangle, so making the place habitable. And here in his new built church he- reverently deposited the body of St. Cuthbert." Walcher had not long been bishop when there appeared before him a little band of Benedictines, who came to appeal to him for a home in which they might settle down safely under the Norman protection. They would thereby bring in the newer sense of order and protection ; conquest brings slavery ; and they would, in the presence of their new lords, a sterner form of religion, nearer to the Papacy ; so they might rival the ancient glory of the Celtic church, as St. Aidan had laid it down ; they would replace the earlier Churchmen, living there with their families around them, and might even become a source of strength to their Norman friends. They would also shew them the stricter way ; and exercise some of the power wielded by the great rule of the Benedictine order. 2 The date of this Chapel is given as 1071. The learned Commendatore di Rivoira, who knows more about the history of Norman work than does any architectural student, told me that he considered the date of it to be " about the middle of the eleventh century," that is, some fifteen or twenty years before the Norman conquest. 3 Symeon, III, 2. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 15 Walcher received the wanderers gladly ; for the time present he could only set them in some ruinous and forsaken buildings on Tyne-side at J arrow, or at the mouth of the Wear. These buildings had suffered much from Scandinavian incursions ; the former Anglian monks had gone.4 Here they might have some precarious quietude, " till under riper judgement the proper place for them to live in might be found. "5 And these strangers seem to have given Walcher the hint that the Benedictines were a handy and willing people for him, loyal towards the un-English rule. Why should he not set them finally in a secure home, on his strong hill-top of Durham ? " Meanwhile," says Symeon, " around the walls of Durham Church good foundations were already being laid down for a large and bold plan of " a safe house for his friends the Benedictines." 6 This was the last task of his life, before his murder in 1080. In these five years, then, from 1075 to 1080, the ancient Undercroft which still remains, and lies just outside the south wall of the present cloister of Durham Cathedral, was planned out and built for these Benedictine strangers. Even then the grand dimensions of the place were fixed. The large and spacious size of the cloister, the general plan for the dignity of a great Cathedral monastery was laid down at this early time ; for this Undercroft was set out so as to secure the huge square of cloisters, from Aldhun's church southwards. That church must have been intended to form the outer edge of the north side of the present cloisters. Here we have the beginning of the present Deanery. For the larger part of this interesting Undercroft, which was not a crypt underground, but the ground floor intended to bear buildings rising above it, was finished at this time ; it was at once used as a shelter for the brethren themselves, or for those who were working at the buildings. This was the western part of it ; while the eastern part, divided from the rest by the passage 4 Hegge, ed. 1616, p. 22, says " Then were demolished the two monasteries of St. Peter and St. Paul at Wermouth and Jarro, built by two Abbats, Celfride and Benedict." s Symeon, Book II, Ch. 13. 6 Ibid. 16 THE DEANERY, DURHAM leading into the cloisters,7 became the under part of the present house . it forms the cellarage of it on the ground level. Canon Greenwell describes it well. The crypt on the eastern side of the cloister is beneath the entrance- hall of the Deanery. Its length lies north and south. It is divided into two aisles by one arcade of four arches now closed with masonry. This arcade resembles that in the larger crypt ; but this crypt differs from the other by being covered by two plain barrel vaults, each of which roofs in over one of the aisles, and in having no wall arcades. 8 All this was certainly built in these five years, while the superstructures over the Undercroft were added in 1088 or 1089. The part that runs east and west (along the outside of the south aisle of the cloister) became the Monks' Refectory, when they came there ; the other part (north and south) was occupied as their Dormitory, and so continued to be used till the beginning of the fifteenth century, when the monks began to sleep in the later dormitory on the west side of the cloister, now the noble main room of the Cathedral Library. The building over the western Undercroft was erected in the days of William the Conqueror ; while the western wall of the present Hall of the Deanery was built in the reign of William Rufus. Anyone now going from the Hall to the kitchen has the wall built by Walcher between 1070 and 1080 on his right hand all the way down ; and as one sits in the hall or the dining-room of the Deanery, the high wall on the west side was certainly made in the days of the Red William. It was finished in 1080. These two walls are the oldest part of this ancient house. Canon Greenwell has given much knowledge and thought to this part of it. 9 " I think," he says, " it not improbable that in the wall on the east side of the cloister, and to the south of the Chapter house there still remain portions of the habitacula 10 begun by Bishop Walcher. The masonry ' In this passage the original arches on both sides are still to be seen : a larger one in the middle, and lesser on either side. 8 Canon Greenwell, " Durham Cathedral p, 22." 9 Ibid. p. 17 note. '° Symeon III, 22: " Unde positis fundamentis Monachorum habitacula, ubi nunc habentur, Dunelmi construere coepit." H < w o z « o o H O « O W Q 55 P 55 3 « o w a H THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 17 is of a kind different from any other used either in the Cathedral itself or in the domestic buildings connected with it, being entirely of rubble stones, without any squared ones. The walls are much thinner than those of the later work of the Norman period. There is also a feature which is indicative of early masonry on the inner side of the wall in question immediately to the south of the wall of the Chapter house, a triangular-headed recess. Any building erected in Bishop Walcher's time would almost certainly proceed from the hands of native masons, and would naturally be of the same kind as that to which they were accustomed. In this respect the wall and the recess quite agree with the suggested time of their erection." It seems, then, quite certain that the date of the building of this, the western wall of the Deanery, can be fixed within a very narrow limit of years. William of St. Carilef 11 was Walcher's successor in Durham in 1081. He too favoured the Benedictines, and so naturally saw that he would enormously strengthen his hold on this Northern fortress and outlook if he could establish there a strong Benedictine house. It would both carry out his ambitious views as to the development of the place, and also would make Durham the heart and soul of that new type of Christianity that the Normans, the friends of the Papacy, were determined to establish permanently in the North. So in 1083 Bishop William Carilef, a man not of the fiercer Norman kind, but rather a lover of things constructive and good for life, set himself to make in Durham a safe home for his Benedictines. The country all round the place had been most mercilessly ravaged by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, who had set himself to avenge the death of Walcher by a savage attack on the innocent and helpless people in the northern part of the country. Carilef, on the contrary, looked round him from Durham to see how he might even then bring back some peace and prosperity to his afflicted diocese. He also hoped to strengthen the still hated Norman rule by constructive work. Now the Evesham monks had been set by Bishop Walcher at Jarrow and Weremouth, and they, men of peace and 11 The Monastery of St. Calais, near the Loire. 18 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. goodwill, had already done not a little towards the restoration and well- being of the two forlorn deserted houses. They had mended up St. Peter's at Weremouth and St. Paul's at Jarrow. St. Peter's, a church whose walls were half buried in a tangle of briars and thorn bushes, standing then roofless, they had bravely rescued from imminent destruction. They cut down the trees, rooted up the brambles, cleared the land, roofed over the bare walls, and made the place once more fit for the worship of God. 12 This done, there came to them a larger task. They were called on to begin buildings of a far grander scale, which should be the suitable accompaniments of a magnificent church ; a church destined to be thenceforth a fine example of Norman boldness and skill in building. The new bishop's mind clearly harboured an ambition to rival the splendid edifices then rising all through western France. He doubtless deemed the work of the despised Anglians, as it was seen in Bishop Aldhun's church, to be unworthy to be preserved with his own projected monastic house. He also saw, after the fashion of his day, as apparently all the Norman builders saw, that a patron saint was necessary, and would also be lucrative for his stately church, in which the " uncorrupted body " of St. Cuthbert might be duly and magnificently housed. It is pleasant to read how old Robert Hegge in 1625 describes the site of this fine group of ancient buildings. " This reverend aged Abby, advanced upon the shoulders of a mountanous atlas, is so envyroned again with hills, that he that hath seen the situation of this city hath seen the Mapp of Sion, and may save a journey to the Holy Land. She is girded almost about with the renowned river of Weer, in which, as in a crystalline, she might once have beheld her beautie, but now the ruines of her walls." — Hegge, Legend of St. Cuthbert, p. 4 (ed. 1816). Thus the work began again. Whether the brethren from Jarrow and Weremouth themselves laboured with mallet and chisel can never be known ; it is more than probable that they did work bravely, as they had formerly done at their old homes ; they had lived in a tradition of sound »» Symeon, III, 22. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 19 labour. The likelihood is that they were both capable and willing to attack the new buildings of Durham. In those earlier days of the Benedictine rule their noble principle of " Laborare est Orare " was far more than a jingle of sounds, it meant diligence in manual labour for all. Yet it may be that by this time the influence of Norman pride and mastery had taught them to regard such wholesome and practical toil as beneath them. Still, one wishes to think there was some warm enthusiasm left, and that they seized again their working tools, and helped readily at erecting the stately walls of Durham Abbey. It looks as if it might have been so, for we see that the most ancient walls were almost entirely built without any ashlar stones, the work of amateurs, not of skilled artisans. Let us believe these good things of these earlier brethren, before prosperity had spoilt them ; for afterwards they were but lordly fathers, gentlefolk of tender hands, reckoned as among the great landed feudal aristocracy of Durham Palatinate. Thus then, in 1083, Bishop William of St. Carilef began his great work. As Symeon tells us, and he was an eye-witness of all things in Durham, Carilef had found the land all but desert, and St. Cuthbert's body lay in what had become a commonplace and slovenly site, neglected by all. No one seemed to care for it ; the regular Canons living there were too much occupied with their wives and families *3 to be willing to help the energetic bishop. He, bold yet cautious, undertook to take in hand the gigantic work of a new and strong Durham, by erections to make the place the leader and protector of the North. And this he planned out with great prudence and boldest daring. He acted as one who thought about others as well as about his own great schemes, " lest any one," says the Chronicler, " should imagine that work, because it had been undertaken by him alone, should for that reason be resisted and hindered." r 4 Thus it was that he looked round for help. He approached, with his large plans, both King William and his ■3 The remains of many women and children were found in the ancient burying-ground of the Cathedral. " Symeon, IV, 2. 20 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Queen Matilda. The King, we are told, was at once struck by Carilef's proposals for giving help and quietude with safety to these troubled northern counties. He gladly consented, and joined the bishop in his appeal to the goodwill of the Pope. William Rufus was not unwilling thus to shew in an open manner his reverence for the Papacy, so long as it did not interfere with his authority over his people at home. He therefore approached Gregory VII, and laid before him Carilef's large scheme for a central church and fortress to be garrisoned by a strong Benedictine house. Gregory saw that such an establishment would plant a combined spiritual and temporal power in a difficult and dangerous country. He willingly sent letters of approval to the King, and to Lanfranc, Archbishop of Canterbury. Thus strengthened from headquarters of Church and State, Carilef dislodged, with much other rubbish, the old and ineffective rule of the Canons of St. Cuthbert's church. He gave them the choice — which must to them have looked like a bad form of irony ; he told them they must either give up their comfortable Canons' homes and their families, by joining as brethren in the coming Benedictine Convent, or, if they refused to do so, they must clear out of Durham, leaving the place empty for the approaching reformers. They soon made their choice. All of them packed up at once, and went away, with exception of one, their Dean, who having a son already in the Benedictine order, thought it well to acquiesce in these new-fangled notions, and alone of all the old residents became a member of the new convent. '5 The ground being thus completely cleared, the message was quickly sent to the brethren at Jarrow and Weremouth, bidding them, by an invitation that could not be refused, to leave their exposed quarters, where they had done the best they could for ten years or so, and to come back to Durham to take possession of a new home, which they would have to make for themselves, under the care and patronage of the Crown and the bishop. Here they would be sheltered from all risks of pirates of the sea ; here they could undertake the high duties of the custody of St. Cuthbert's shrine, '= Symeon, IV, iii. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 21 with also the responsibility of becoming the central power and energy of the growing force of the Norman rule in these turbulent counties of England. The poor men must have thought the outlook cold and comfortless. They had, in the past ten years, worked for their ruined homes, and made them passable ; now they were called on to begin again on a larger scale. At Durham, as it then was, there was but little shelter for them ; only the Undercrofts were standing — shelter and nothing more. Here they were called to come and help at erecting a large group of cathedral and conventual buildings. Still, they were wanted there ; and so that they at once packed up their poor possessions, and started on foot for Durham. As the chronicler bluntly tells us, " the diocese was then too poor to support more than one home in place of three. 16 It is not improbable that Symeon travelled with them on this journey. For we see from a passage in his Church History of Durham that he had lived in one of the older houses. Speaking of the monastic chanting and singing, he says " that Bishop Walcher had observed these matters in accordance with the tradition of the fathers, just as we have often heard them singing." So that before 1080 Symeon had been a grown-up man dwelling among the brethren in one of these two houses. It is plain throughout that he writes as an eyewitness. He afterwards became the third Prior of the new House at J arrow, and on the death of Turgot the second of the Priors, he was elected as Prior of Durham. Bishop William nominated Aldhun, who had been at the head of the monks before, to be the first Prior of the new Convent ; and he agreed to what was even at the beginning styled " the ancient custom of that Church," the custom that those who had in charge the custody of the body of St. Cuthbert should hold their lands independently, and not as a part of the episcopal domain. At the outset these lands of theirs were small. Some acres at Billingham, and a " little scrap of land that the Bishop gave them." They also received promises from the King and Bishop of a coming good 16 Symeon, Book IV, Ch. 2: "Quia episcopatus parvitas ad tria monachorum coenobia non sufficeret." 22 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. endowment, which followed in due time. The death of the King stayed these promises from immediate effect. Thus it was that the Benedictines came to Durham. We have in Symeon a good description of their coming in : " On the third day after their arrival, that being Pentecost day, they were led into the Church of St. Cuthbert ; then and there Bishop William declared to the assembled people the good pleasure in this matter of Pope Gregory VII and of the King ; then he commended them to St. Mary the Virgin, and to St. Cuthbert, and gave over to them the care of the church. Finally, in the course of the Mass, he blessed them in their profession, and promised them secure possession of their new home, binding them thereby to the care of the uncorrupt body of St. Cuthbert. Three days later the Bishop summoned them once more, and appointed in their presence the chief officers in the monastery, and secured to them the independent charge of their goods and lands, for the due support of the house."' 6 * Thus they began their new life, with a great feeling of responsibility for their duties ; yet almost at once there fell on them a very serious check. For in the next year it was found that Bishop William had been mixed up in some way with " aliorum machinamenta," the plots, that is, and tricks of men of the Court, and was working with those that wanted to set aside the new King, William the Red, and to establish a fresh succession of Norman princes. In consequence of this William Rufus banished the Bishop from England, and Carilef crossed over in 1088 to Normandy, where he was welcomed by the chief persons, and lived for three years. He had to leave in charge of the young monastery the second Prior, Turgot, whose position at Durham was far from easy ; for he was face to face with the offended and irate King. It was an evil moment for him, the bishop in disgrace and abroad, the King harsh of temper to deal with. " Still, in spite of all this " (and in these words we hear the eyewitness recording his impressions as to the straits in which his brethren and he were now caught), " we found the King fairly humane towards us. "'7 '«• Bk. IV, Ch. 3. ■» Symeon, 226. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 23 Though the Red King had a heavy hand for others, yet he touched nothing of theirs at Durham ; he even protected them, as his father had also done ; nor would he listen to anyone who maligned them. And thus it came about that when Turgot approached the King, he found a kindly reception. William bade him to rule the young convent as best he could during the Bishop's absence. It was after this interview that, under Turgot's eye, " the Refectory as it now stands was built by the brethren." The wall which formed the eastern side of that Refectory is also the western wall of the Deanery Hall and dining-room. It has remained unaltered from 1088 or 1090. In the northern part we find that curious recess above a window or doorway below, which Canon Greenwell names as a proof of very high antiquity. He also points out that the whole of this lofty wall is comparatively thin ; and is built of rubble stones with little or no ashlar work in it ; all showing the early constructive efforts of these Benedictines. In the part of it that now forms the beginning of the eastern side of the Cloister there still exist two Norman entrances or doorways, the southern one being still styled the "Usher's Door," leading to the Deanery ; the other is the entrance to the ancient Dormitory of the monks. We can still see within it the broad and now ruinous flight of steps, about ten feet across, which led to the north end of the Dormitory, and was used for centuries by all the brethren going to the Cathedral for the night offices. At this time the brethren worked hard at their new Refectory, a long chamber running east and west over the ancient Undercroft, and parallel with and just outside of the projected cloister. The earlier kitchen must have been handy for this ; and the Norman archway and door at the west end would be their way for carrying cooked food up for those who should dine in the Refectory, while the higher obedientiaries had their dinner in the room now called the Loft. 18 It is probable that this kitchen was near, or a part of, the Covey underneath. It was certainly handy for this new Refectory. ' 8 Dr. Fowler calls " the Loft" the misericorde , and suggests that the habit of dining in it by men in good health was a late relaxation. " Rites," p. 268. 24 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Thus, before Bishop William de Carilef got leave from the King to return to Durham, the Benedictines had settled down in fairly comfortable quarters, using the large Undercroft as their somewhat dark chambers for work and living. We have no evidence that the community had by this time set apart or erected a special residence for their Prior ; though it is not unlikely that some rooms may have been built for him east of the Dormitory. In these busy days the Prior may have preferred to live in the midst of the brethren ; for while the whole place was full of the noise of building and of fitting up their new chambers, he would not care to add to their heavy efforts in erecting at the same time both the great Cathedral and this larger conventual group of buildings. For the time they, had, all of them, to be content with the Norman Undercroft by day and night. One part of this was styled the Covey, a kind of pair of transepts running north and south, and approached on the same level as the Cloister, while it also had an exit to the south. Here the children of the Almery used for generations to have their meals ; for it was very handy for the kitchen. Canon Fowler, in his careful and interesting edition of " The Rites of Durham," 10 thinks that what is now the two-aisled Norman cellar under the Deanery Hall was the original common room of the monastic brethren. This may well have been the case. It is certain that the doorway still styled " the usher door " formed a part of these earliest buildings. 20 For the passage it leads to has at the east end a circular-headed window, which may have been the upper part of a disused doorway out of the passage into the monks' cemetery, lying to the east of the cloisters, and known by the name of the centory-garth. It was the habit of the brethren, after their mid-day meal, daily " to goe thorowghe the cloister in at the ushers dour, and so thorowghe the entrie in under the Priors lodginge, and streight in to the centorie garth wher all the mounckes was buried, and ther did stand all bair heade a certain longe space, praieng amonges the toumbes and throwghes for there brethren "9 " Rites of Durham," (Surtees Society), p. 265. 20 The Register-house was placed at this time on the right-hand side of the Usher-door entry ; though now it cannot be identified, as Canon Fowler says. THE DEANERY, DURHAM, 25 soules being buryed there : and when they hadd done there prayers then they did returne to the cloyster, and there did studie there bookes untill iij of the clocke, that they went to Evensong. This was there dalie exercise." 21 When Bishop William came back from his three years of exile, a new period in the growth of the great group of buildings on Durham hill-top began with vigour. It is plain from what had already been done that Prior Turgot had fully carried out the agreed-on compact, that the Bishop's property should be dedicated to the growth of the great church, while the property of the monastic community should bear the costs of building the corporate chambers for the monastery. This, however, could not well continue. There was a call for a great general and united effort, to raise a new and nobler Church, a Church finer than hitherto had been seen in the north. And this second period of building followed at once after Bishop William's return. The work already done shews clearly that every thing had been planned out in the minds of the two bishops as to the size and general dimensions of the conventual buildings. The large square of the cloisters was obviously arranged so that the older church of Aldhun might form the north side of it. It has been vain to search for the foundations of this earlier church inside the circuit of the cloisters ; the only building likely to be placed inside the cloister-square was the lavatory, which stood inside, just opposite the entrance to the loft and the refectory ; so that the brethren might have their washing handy. And it also seems plain that even before the foundations of the new Norman Cathedral were laid down the earlier church was entirely cleared away. It is probable that for the protection and safety of St. Cuthbert's body some temporary building was run up, probably inside the cloister area ; but no traces of this have been found. So, in the ninety-eighth year of Bishop Aldhun's Cathedral, it was levelled to the ground in 1092. In the next year, in August, Bishop William laid the first stone, and Prior Turgot followed with the second stone, of the present 21 " Rites of Durham," p. 87. 26 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. church. Thus St. Carilef saw the beginning of this noble work, and impressed on it his personal sense of power and greatness. He could have seen but little more of it, for, being in the south at Windsor that winter, he was seized with illness on Christmas Day, and after lingering some eight days, he died on the New Year's day, 1095. They brought his body home, and here he lies buried in the Chapter House, as Symeon tells us. 22 Bishop Ralph Flambard, King Henry's chaplain, who succeeded to the bishopric, after a stormy time in the Tower of London and then in Normandy, came to Durham, when peace for a while ensued between King Henry and the Duke of Normandy. He began by putting an end to the old compact between the bishopric and the convent ; for the pressure was great to advance the huge fabric of the Cathedral Church ; consequently the brethren gave up their own buildings, and threw all their strength into the erection of the church. 2 3 Bishop Ralph at this time strengthened the whole hill-top of Durham. In 1101 and 1102 he cleared off the huts on the Palace Green : " the piece between the church and the castle, then covered by many little shanties (' habitacula '), he converted into an open level field; and thus took from the convent the risk of contagion likely to spring out of their sordid filth, also of constant danger of fire." He also attended to the state of the river banks, and built the Framwellgate bridge. For in his vigorous strength Flambard " being driven by an impatient energy, passed rapidly from one work to another." 2 4 Thus, for a considerable time, while the great church was growing, and even reached the point of having a roof on the nave, the conventual buildings were arrested. We have no evidence that any quarters for the Prior were at ■ Symeon, Bk. IV, c. 10. "It was in King Stephen's day that the Chapter House was completed : ipsius tempore capitulum monachorum consummatum est." Symeon. Contin., c. ii. " Symeon, Continuatio, c. i. " Monachi enim, omissis officinarium aedificationibus, operi ecclesiae insistunt, quam usque navem Rannulfus jam factum invenit." 24 Continuatio, c. i. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 27 this time erected, between the beginning of the century and the time, more than a hundred and fifty years afterwards, when the Prior's Chapel was undertaken. Yet there must have been some suitable chambers prepared for him ; for the monks would never have begun by having his chapel completed before due house-room was made for him. The earliest Rolls of the convent do not begin till 1278, and there is no notice at all of any buildings being undertaken in this long interval. Yet it is as good as certain that even before this time the Prior had chambers of his own. Graystanes, recording the affairs of 1258, tells us that the Commissioners of Bishop Walter of Kirkham, coming to Durham on occasion of the request of the Prior to be allowed to resign his office, entered into the Prior's Chamber, and heard his reasons for it, and then and there consented to his resignation. And the Account Rolls for 1278 show that there was glass in the windows of his rooms. 2 5 Later on, in 1302, we are told how that during a quarrel over the election of a Prior, Henry of Luceby, who had been nominated by the King, and so had been forced on the monks, took possession of the " Camera Prioris " for a time. Here, however, the opposite faction rushed in on him, and drove him out ; and he fled, managing to carry with him, as goodly spoil, all he could lay his hands on, cups and spoons, and other vessels of silver, belonging to the Prior's estate. Hence it is quite clear that the Prior, by the middle of the thirteenth century was established in sufficient quarters, in which he might live comfortably. It is not known whether or not he slept in the Dormitory with his brethren. Such in early days had been the use ; as we learn from the admirable monograph on Gilbert Crispin, which has been published by the late Dean of Westminster, Dr. Armitage Robinson. 26 We learn from this that in earlier days that great churchman, the Abbot of Bee, was in the habit of always sleeping in the Dormitory of his convent with the brethren. As the customs of the great monastery of Bee ruled also the Durham house, it is likely enough that the Prior had here also his bed in the general 2 = "Account Rolls," p. 485. - 6 Dean Armitage Robinson, D.D., " Gilbert Crispin, p. 6. 28 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Dormitory, and went duly at the proper hours with his brethren to the Church. These matters do not give us any knowledge of the growth of the Prior's house ; we must pass from all speculation to the first fact we possess, namely that about this time (the middle, let us say, of the thirteenth century) the Prior's chapel was built, to flank the eastern end of the group of con- ventual chambers. As to the date of it, all we can say is that it must have been before the existing rolls, that is, before 1278. We must be content with the present evidence of the style and manner of the building. This chapel shows no ornament on the outside. It is built in the early pointed style, which is usually called, with English presumption, " the Early English period." It has been said that it was erected by Prior Melsanby, whose priorate ran from 1233 to 1244. Of this there seems to be no proof ; indeed, the probabilities are rather against it. For while Melsanby, with his two clever master-masons, was engaged on the splendidly ornate Nine Altars, that second and eastern pair of transepts for the Cathedral Church, he would scarcely have consented to leave his own chapel totally devoid of all ornament ; yet this chapel is simple and uninteresting in plan and details, lacking entirely those special gifts which form the glory of the Nine Altars. Two things seem to be clear — that this was quite an early example of the first pointed style ; and secondly that the priors of the first half of the thirteenth century were not people who could expend either time or money on such a task. In the days of Bishop Geoffrey Rufus (1133-1140) the efforts of the convent were concentrated on building the Chapter House ; somewhat later the Galilee had to be built, occupying much of the attention of Bishop Pudsey ; here too, everything was still late Norman, giving little hint of a coming change. In the days of Philip of Poiteux (1 197-1208) there was a continual and somewhat violent quarrel between Bishop and Convent, and a similar trouble reigned through the days of Richard de Marisco (1217-1226) with a scandal even greater. It was not till Richard Poore hi w < u « o « fa o W Q CO a « o 2; THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 29 succeeded (1229-1237) that these sore disputes came to an end, by the agreement called " le convenit," a document often quoted in later days; it was the ground of a better friendship, and the close of a long unseemly tussle. Some time after this period, in which the Chapel could not well have been built, came Prior Hugh whose heart was set on building, and more specially on building chapels. He was Prior from 1258 to 1272 ; and in that period he is recorded having spent " much for the preservation of his neighbourhood." He has the credit of building the great central tower of the Cathedral, pre- decessor of the present tower ; he also built the manor houses at Ketton and at Wardeley, with a chapel to each of them. This tempts us to assume that a man so handy at erecting chapels on his estates might have been the actual creator of our Prior's Chapel at Durham. Unfortunately the Scots destroyed these manor houses and their chapels, so that there is now nothing there to be compared with the workmanship of our Durham Chapel. Still it seems more than probable that this chapel was built by Prior Hugh, and that the date of it would then be between 1260 and 1270. 2 ? The cause of building such a chapel when the Cathedral was hard at hand may have been partly Prior Hugh's fancy for creating these appendages to a noble house, and partly that the prior, a wealthy and powerful dignitary, wished to have his many retainers and dependents meeting him quietly for the worship of God. The Cathedral was closed against all women and lay folk — it was the monk's church — jealously guarded against all outsiders, lay -folk were never welcomed into it. This chapel is oblong in form, sixty feet longways and twenty-two feet broad. It stands a little forward towards the south, at the east end of the Prior's chambers. Built on a " camera voltis arcuata," a groined undercroft still remaining untouched, the Chapel rose only to the level of the other buildings. The crypt underneath was at first on the ground level, 2 ? It is worth noting that in 1353 the Prior had his own private chaplain, an officer, no doubt, created for this chapel. ( "Tres Scriptores," p. xlvii). In 1510 there is an entry to the effect that the Convent paid 2s. 8d. pro uno le surplece ex novo empto pro clerico capellae domini Prioris." "Account Rolls," 661. 3 o THE DEANERY, DURHAM. though the earth has now accumulated in the usual way along the sides of it. This crypt had originally two entrances, one in the west front under the main doorway of the Chapel, the other corresponding to the Prior's door above, close to the north-west corner of the building. It is in four bays of well- struck groining, rising to a height of about eleven feet at the highest. For the engaged columns on both sides are four feet eight inches long, with a base underneath that is rather more than a foot deep, and a capital above of about ten inches. So that from the floor level to the point from which the groining springs is a height of a little over six feet. This chamber was originally lighted on the south side by four well-marked arched windows. These, however, after the reformation time, were altered into square-headed windows, as if the incoming Deans had thought it desirable that this should be used by their servants as a kind of sitting room. There is still a small rectangular window in the eastern wall. There are no signs of any kind of ornamentation about this crypt-like chamber. The groinings of it support the floor of what was the Chapel itself. No trace of the original chapel is now to be seen inside. It has been turned into two storeys of pleasant rooms, three below, two being sitting rooms, and between them a narrow place with a heavy seventeenth-century cornice and finish ; while above there are two bedrooms and two dressing rooms. Into the Chapel were two entrances. One from the south-east end of the Prior's solarium, which is still of use for the westernmost sitting-room, and the other entrance is a fine Early English archway in good condition blocked up ; the sill of it is quite eight feet above the ground below. There seem to be no features by which we can learn how worshippers entered into the chapel. There is, indeed, a narrow cut which passes horizontally through the two plain capitals of the pillars which support the arch above. Yet this has no clear interpretation : for if any bar of wood or iron crossed the door- way, it would make it only about four feet six inches high. The cut may have been used to secure the railings of a wooden staircase by which the servants and retainers could enter the Chapel. Still, there is no valid know- ledge as to^the way by which this entrance was originally reached. The H if) < w o 2 I— t o o 3 o « « w G 55 p W < o W X H THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 31 door exactly below it makes it all but impossible that there was a stone- built approach ; nor are there any signs of a stone staircase left where it would have joined the main building. In the restoration of the conventual buildings, worked out some years ago, and made into a very interesting picture by Canon Farrar and Mr. Holt, an architect, this Chapel is drawn with a high-pitched roof. What were the grounds on which this was done ? It certainly breaks the uniformity of the rest of the roof-work ; for they all are flat, and no real roof appears in sight at all. Still, it is hard to believe that this Chapel had a pointed roof, for except at the two corners, there is no strong supporting buttress on the south side ; and the weight of such a high pitched roof must have pushed the wall out of the perpendicular. This wall for the first ten feet, is the old wall unspoilt ; for traces of the ancient windows can be seen in it. Above ten feet, when the Dean was making the rooms fit for family use, he put in plain sash windows, and probably rebuilt the whole wall ; though in truth there is no sign of any change of work visible. In the original chapel there were many lancet windows of the " Early English " make ; two on the west front, where curiously one is about a foot longer than the other ; nor can any satisfactory reason for this variation be given, unless, indeed, it was that the western doorway is not placed in the middle of the front, but lies a good bit nearer the north wall (in which the shorter window stands) than the south. There also still remain two lancets on the north side towards the east end of the chapel : they are in that part of the building that was not covered in the fourteenth century by the " camera Prioris minor," the room formerly the Prior's " justice room," now the Dean's library. This couple of windows show that originally the lancets may have been in pairs on either side. At the eastern end we can still see the remains of two tall lancets ; there is no indication that there was ever a central lancet window. We now see there the insertion of a square Tudor window near the top, together with some seventeenth- century brickwork of a chimney, and other changes in that part of the wall 32 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. by which formerly the altar stood. It is said that this Chapel was dedicated to St. Nicholas. The services said in this chapel were usually taken by that important monk, the Prior's chaplain, who is shown by the Account Rolls of the house to have been one of the abler and more trustworthy members of the conventual body. The author of the " Rites of Durham " describes him thus : " Dane William Watson, the Priors Chaplaine. The chaplaynes checker was over the staires, as yow goe up to the Deanes haule. His offis was to receave at the Bowcers (Bursar's) handes all such sumes of money as was dewe for the bowcer to paie unto the Lord Priors use for the maintenance of himselfe and expends of his whole howshold, and for his other necessaries. The said chaplen was to provide for the Lord Priors apparell, and to se all thinges in good order in the hall, and his furniture for his table to be swete and cleane, and to se that every man applied his office deligentlie, as it owghte to be done, to se that no debaite nor strife to be within the house. He had in his charge and keapinge all the Lord Priors plaite and treasure, as well in delyveringe therof as receiving yt in againe. And also he was to discharge and paie all gentlemen, yeomen, and all other servauntes and officers of the Lord Priors house there wages, and to paie all other rackninges of his house what so ever. His chamber where he did lye was next unto the Priors chamber." 28 We find that in 1438 Dominus John Oil, the then chaplain, received the money needed for the Prior's holiday at Beaurepaire. 2 9 This passage from the " Rites " shows us that the approach to the first floor of the Deanery, on which all the living rooms are situate, was the site in the sixteenth century of the Chequer of the Chaplain, who was a kind of secretary to the Prior. This room was over the stairs leading up to the house. It is not possible now to identify this chamber. It might have 28 "Rites of Durham," Fowler's Ed., p. 101. 29 "Account Rolls," p. 71. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 33 been over either the stairs which led formerly to the Dormitory, or over other private stairs near the present front door staircase leading to the outer hall. Unfortunately, the statement that his bedroom was next to that of the Prior gives us no hint as to whereabouts these two chambers were. We possess in the colossal Appendix to the Surtees edition of the "Tres Scriptores."3o the following detailed catalogue of the furniture of the Prior's Chapel , as it was in 1446 : Two " cistulae," chests to carry vestments. One cup, silver-gilt. One " casula " or chasuble, in red velvet, broidered with many crowned M's with a white velvet alb embroidered with I.H.S. One vestment of gold cloth, with a stole maniple and corporal. Two good vestments, one red, in gold cloth, the other in white velvet, with gold stars and an orphray with figures ; with stoles, maniples, linen palls, for carrying the elements, and frontals and corporals of the same stuff. Two cloths scevynde (should be steyvende), for the altar. Two white cloths painted with symbols, for the altar. Two white cloths for Lent, with red crosses sewn on. Two towels hanging ready for the washing. One Missal, which was formerly at St. Cuthbert's altar. One pax-board, silver-gilt. One bell, silver-gilt. One " diurnale," probably a book for the day hours. One breviary, to be carried about (portable). One large breviary, formerly belonging to Prior John Fossor, with silver clasps gilt. One Psalter, with the story of Christ painted as a frontispiece. 3° "Tres Scriptores," p. cclxxxv, and No. (of Documents), ccxxxiij. 34 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. A cloth in green, for a carpet before the altar, and coverings for the footstools. One cloth in blue, as an altar-carpet. Four cushions in blue of Norwich-work. Four striped coverings, green and red. One new cupboard for books. Two surplices for the Clerk of the Chapel. One great chest with the royal arms, to carry things. Four candelabra of latten. We also find in scattered notices of the Account Rolls a few names of things used for furnishing this Chapel. Thus in 1358 we have " paid to J. Goldsmyth, for making a pair of cruets for the Prior's Chapel, with silver work to complete them, and gold for their gilding, 17s. 8d." In 1400 were bought four " bancours," or cloths of green, to cover the benches of the chapel. In 1415, 1416, there is a payment of 4s. id. for a picture of St. John the Baptist, and also 15s. for divers cloths painted for the ornamenting of the altar ; in 1444 were paid 4s. for two candelabra of brass, bought at York. In 1433 R. Wryght built a large cupboard " almoriolorum " (no doubt the one mentioned above) on which he appears to have been working " for sixteen weeks at 2od. a week less a penny," and this, the account says, amounted to 26s. yd. : Medieval arithmetic is always puzzling.3 1 This large bit of furniture was perhaps adorned with what is called " poker work ;" the next entry on this Computus is " pro duobus birnyng yrons, 2s." In 1418 a brass " situla pro aqua benedicta " was bought for 5s. ; and at the same time a quantity of blue cloth, no doubt for hangings, for 17s. After the Reformation the Chapel probably remained untouched for some time ; the first change in it being the square-headed Tudor window in the east end. Presently (probably in the eighteenth century) the whole was transformed into rooms. A floor divided it horizontally into two stories : and these stories were made into habitable rooms, with ordinary and 81 Account Rolls, 711. R. Wright perhaps made The " Almery " for the Prior's Buttery "infra capellam " (i.e., in the Chapel Crypt). aiiiigiiii Dooruuay to Spiral Staircase in Camera Inferior. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 35 convenient sash windows. In the lower floor there were two bright sitting- rooms with a narrow closet between them ; and the upper floor became two bedrooms with one dressing room, and a pleasant sitting room. In the rooms below there are two interesting fireplaces with carved Italian mantels. These indicate that these chambers underwent improvements in the eighteenth century — when (probably under Dean Cowper) Italian workmen were had in to ornament them with fine work. We know that more than one gentleman's house in this neighbourhood was beautified with such work at this time, specially in the ceilings. 32 Dean Cowper made very considerable changes in the Deanery. After the building of the Chapel we come on a time in which much has to be left to conjecture. We can only say, as a certainty, that the Prior's house must have been, in the main, the next work undertaken. It must have been about this period that the rooms between the Norman Undercroft and the Chapel were built. For the fine doorway entrance into the ground floor has a very interesting and well-struck arch of the early fourteenth century, while the flat-headed doorway out of these sub-structures into the Centory garth is also of the same period. The ground falls about three feet towards the east ; then it seems to have been all in the form of a single chamber, with a wooden roof, for the chief part of the surface. There runs a broad wall from the Norman building eastwards, in which, on the higher (or general living) story, a narrow passage has been cut out. The main room on this ground floor was the living room of the Prior's servants, corresponding with the Solarium above. And in the south east corner of this room is the ancient doorway to a spiral staircase, which communicates first with the Solar and then runs up to the roof ; the entry to the Solar is still visible on the inside. The entrance to it is a fine flat-headed doorway, with a bold rib running round it. It seems likely that this was all built before the middle of the fourteenth century. It was through this doorway that the Prior's servants used to come 3» As were Elemore House, Mrs. Wood's house at Coxhoe, and The Ford at Lanchester. 36 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. up into the Solar on their master's bidding. Beyond this lower hall there is a small dark room, probably cut off from the hall at some unknown time, and beyond this a narrow passage which leads from the large open space behind to the Chapel Crypt. Eastward of this again is a fair- sized room, now fitted up as a laundry, and looking out with two windows towards the east. Northward of this lie the remains of an ancient latrine, probably specially attached to the Prior's use and chambers — and in the north east corner is a large chamber lighted with a fourteenth-century window — and now used as a coal-house. It has also an entry to the latrine mentioned above. We know that the Prior had his own chambers in the fourteenth century ; but as to the time when the solid part of the residence of the head of the house was built our documents give us no information. It is clear that both " the camera superior " and the " camera inferior " were standing early in the fourteenth century. The Rolls of the Bursar in 1412 onwards contain a number of items of work done for the Camera Prioris ; and, earlier than this, we find in a roll of 1407/8 that the Prior's " solarium," his sunny chamber, was already in full use ; the only place in which a room entitled to this southern description of a "room of the sun" could have been built, must have been between the ancient dormitory and the chapel. In this roll there are two items which bear on this point. " In solario Domini Prioris 6 pp. (pipae) vini pretio 20/2, et pro 18 ollis diversarum mensurarum in eodem solario pro vino imponendo, 24s." Then immediately after this entry comes " Item in uno dorsol 33 et duobus costeris (hangings) in Aula Prioris superiore et tribus costeris in Camera Prioris inferiore de Worsted paled (i.e., striped worsted) pretio 100s." ; and in the same roll also this, " quatuor boltes (i.e., rolls) de worsted pro costeris in studio Domini Prioris, 28s." ; which must mean the present library of the Deanery. Thus it becomes plain that at the beginning of Prior Wessington's active rule the present large chambers above and below — now the Deanery drawing-room above, and the now disused servants' hall below — were in use ; though there is no trace 33 Dorsorium : an ornamental cloth, hanging at the back of a seat, or in a chamber or hall. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 37 as to the time when they were built. It is probable that Prior Fossor helped to make them what they were before he died in 1374.- It may however be that they were left by Fossor for his successor to complete. We come next to study a building of great general interest, of which the history is excellently provided for us by the Rolls. This is that remarkable structure of a monastic kitchen undertaken by the Convent, under the guidance of the most vigorous hand of Prior John Fossor. This is I believe quite unique in two ways ; first because of the excellence of the design, and secondly because it is the only early monastic kitchen in England still in regular use. Yet before entering on this in detail we must record a strange incident that occurred during the priorate of William Cowton in the Prior's lodgings. We do not know where the Refectory of this house then stood, unless we guess that part of the dormitory was used for the purpose — perhaps what were then the southern bays of the great north and south building which is still used as a dining-room. Anyhow, in 1333 Edward III, being naturally very anxious about the threatenings and hostility of his Scottish neighbours, came up north as far as to Durham, and as his Queen's cousin, Bishop Beaumont, was then in a failing condition of health, and may be was not a favourite with the King, Edward became the guest of the Prior, and was lodged in his chambers. Graystanes, who was then living in the monastery, was ever watchful for events which he might place on record in his Chronicle of local things ; he was therefore an eye-witness of whatever in those days occurred in the convent. He gives us, in a separate little chapter of his book 34 a brief account of a singular incident. On the Friday in Easter week, 1333, Edward III was taking his supper in the Prior's Chamber (it may have been the Camera Superior, or some other room used by the Prior for the purpose), when Queen Philippa suddenly appeared. She had ridden over from Knaresborough (the Chronicler says " in one day"), and being, as he adds, ignorant of St. Cuthbert's objection to women, came in and joined the King at his evening meal. This done, M " Scriptores Tres." p. 117. cap. xlvij of Graystanes' Chronicle. 38 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. she being wearied by the long ride rose up, and told King Edward she would at once go to bed to sleep off her fatigue ; and so she went to one of the chambers, and was soon asleep, enjoying a well-earned rest. Before long the King was told that one of the monks was desirous of addressing him, and he being admitted assured King Edward, who appears to have been also unconscious of St. Cuthbert's peculiarities, that if any woman were to sleep within the precincts of the Convent, some dire plague or other mishap would surely befall them all. And the King, either contemptuous or alarmed, at once bade his servants to let the Queen know the risk she ran. So they went, and found her peacefully enjoying her sleep. She, on being aroused, seemed to be really frightened ; she jumped out of bed at once, and throwing a cloak round her shoulders, fled from such a dangerous couch. She passed through the college, and out at the great gate, and so down the Bailey, till she came to the Castle entrance. There she begged for a night's rest, and obtained from her kinsman > the Bishop, such shelter as she needed. The offended Saint was satisfied, no distress fell on the alarmed monastery or on her. The fact that there were quarters in the Prior's house available for the use of the King and Queen shows that the main part of the present Deanery had already been built ; though it would be an idle conjecture were we to give to any one of the chambers the name of Queen Philippa. Prior Fossor had been a man of note for some time before he succeeded in 1341 to the Priorate. In 1333 he had been summoned from the Priory of St. Leonard's by Stamford, (one of the cells of the Durham monastery), to Durham, in order to join in an election of a Bishop after the death of Bishop Beaumont, that unworthiest of all those who have sat in the episcopal throne of Durham. This election was an unfortunate affair ; for it was the cause of a double appointment to the Episcopate. Two bishops of Durham lived here for a couple of years. For this was the time of the election of that most excellent man Robert of Graystanes, then sub-prior, a man loved for many virtues, and of a humble friendliness with all. No one was ever so much wronged, certainly no one ever bore injustice so well. Even after Graystanes was consecrated and installed, the Pope and Edward III THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 39 insisted on thrusting into the episcopal throne their friend Richard of Bury, who had no connexion of any kind with Durham. Bury had been very useful to the King, and Graystanes in a meek and lowly spirit, though he had been duly elected and consecrated, was fain to stand aside, although his position was legally every way right, except that the King threatened to refuse him his territorial rights. Soon after this, in 1341, on the death of William Cowton, Fossor was elected to be Prior, and ruled over the Convent with great success for thirty years, beginning at the age of sixty and being ninety at his death time. He had been the head of two of the cells ; and there was great pleasure when he *was appointed. " A man of wisdom and of ready speech " he was styled by the Chronicler of the time. We are told that during his rule he spent £492, 7s. yd. on buildings ; a sum (if we would understand the meaning of it) must be multiplied by about twelve times — so that it answers to something like £6,000 in money of our day. We also learn that he constructed two separate chambers, and had them both fitted with glazed windows. One of the special marks of his zeal is to be found in the introduction of fine glass-work. 35 Before the building of the great kitchen we find an interesting item, it tells us that in 1340 or perhaps 1341, there was built a new " Pentice," an open roofed way between the Prior's chamber and the kitchen, which cost £6, 5s. 4d. This pentice probably ran on the lines now followed by the closed-up passage which passes from the kitchen to the Deanery hall. Fossor was in his day a brilliant leader of his house. As a poet says of him : " Fuerat lux vera Sophiae," he adds that he ruled " over the whole church with highest wisdom, being a man of economy even in his huge expenditure in building." It is also recorded of him, that he " was the first that ever attempted to be buried in the church of Durham," though both Antony Bek and Beaumont lie buried there : it must mean the first of the priors. One of the finest memorials of 35 Chambre, " Tres Scriptores," p. 132, puts his expenditure much higher: he gives as the figure at £2076, 8s. lOJd., and that without counting in the cost of the kitchen. 40 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Fossor is the kitchen, which for five hundred and forty years has been in continual unbroken use : in the earlier time it fed for the whole Convent, from the Prior down to the youngest of the singing boys, and since the Reformation, the Dean for the time being. It shows so much compact firmness that it may last for centuries, as an example of the structural skill and honest handiwork of our forefathers. We are fortunate in possessing in the Account Rolls a fairly complete account of the progress and cost of this edifice. For we have the reckoning of the whole account between the years 1366 and 1371 ; for this period the Bursar's Rolls are fairly complete. In the Roll for 1366, 1367, we see that the work was advancing towards completion ; for in it we are told that the Bursar spent eightpence (say eight shillings now) for a cord of twelve fathoms long, " pro luminari novae coquinae." The same account gives us the sum then expended. It runs thus : " In the costs of making the new kitchen from St. Martin's day in 1366 to the close of the account, which in this case was a year and a half, for labourers and quarry-men, for masons and others, and other details of outgoing for this work, as is seen in the Roll containing the conventual expenditure, £180, 18s. 7d., (that is, in our reckoning, a good bit over £2,000). There must also have been for it other considerable outgoings in addition. This interesting roll is headed thus : " The account of John Beryngdon of the moneys received by him and the outgoings for the building of the new kitchen, from St. Martin's Day, 1367, to " (date left blank). It probably means till the Account Roll of 1370, 1371, in which the last item is, " For the cost of the making of the new kitchen from the Feast of SS. Nereus and Achilles, 1370, to the same day, 1371, £198, 12s." In these rolls the names and businesses of the men are given week by week ; the master's name, we learn, was John Lewine, who, for a quarter of a year, had a stipend of £3, 6s. 8d. — which seems to answer to £70 a year or rather more. 36 We may obtain some notion of the importance of the work 36 In Canon Fowler's most careful and accurate Edition of the " Account Rolls of Durham" (Vol. II, pp. 569-574) stands the account of this work, money paid out and a few details, for a year and a half. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 41 by transcribing here the entry as to the implements that were bought or made for the men. At that time they do not seem to have brought their own tools. The Convent apparently provided them, and it is probable that when they had used them, and worn them down, they were allowed to carry them away as their own. The masons, bricklayers, and hodmen now have their own special tools : long may they all keep them : for the ownership of tools is the last personal element for our men in the workmanship of production. The tool-entry runs as follows : " Minute Outgoings for Masons and Quarrymen. For working 30 stone of iron into 23 axes for masons, and 25 puncheons, or punches, with chisels, 4 hacks {i.e., pickaxes), 2 picks, and 19 wedges, taking the stone to be at 4d., comes to 10s. ; and in the working of 4! stone into steel for repairs and patching up of axes, punches, chisels, picks, hacks, and large hammers, and for four stone worked into one crow- bar, with 22 punches with chisels, four at id., with 4 ' hacks ' with steel at different times, and for mending 25 wedges each at |d., and for two crowbars at 2d., 5s. 4d. Then for sharpening 1800 masons' axes at nd. a hundred, 16s. 6d. ; and for carrying sand for the pavement outside the south door, I2d. ; with one lock for the door of the mason's house, 2d., and for two carters of my lord the Prior for gloves and for reward, i2d." This entry is only for the quarter of a year : it gives us the impression of a rapid piece of labour. We find, too, that some of the workmen, probably men belonging to villages some miles away, had their food in Durham ; so we find an entry, " in meat bought from the Cellarer for workmen having their meals in the small house of the Bursar, and in the neighbourhood, 4s. iod." The total given for this year and a half is, £180, 18s. yd. The total outgoing will be considerably larger than this, or than the amount previously noted, £198, 12s. od. The fine structure of this kitchen is due to the fact that it was not meant to be a private building, but was intended for the whole community, for the Prior, his visitors and officers, for the whole Convent body, and also for the Guest-house. There must have been times when the cooks prepared 6 42 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. food for from two hundred to three hundred persons ; it probably never dropped much below two hundred mouths. For the Convent, as we see by an enumeration made in 1510, had a body of officers and servants running up to quite 90 or more ; to these should be added the Prior's suite, which probably counted another score. Then of monks themselves, the roll runs up sometimes to sixty-two, not counting in those in the different cells 37 ; and finally an uncertain crowd of guest-house visitors, and others ; for every man of note rested there for a few days, and brought with him such a suite of men as made the travelling, through Robin Hood's wood-world, safe for them. Such was the work expected from the new kitchen ; let us describe the place carefully, for, as has been said, it is quite unique. It is an octagonal building. 3 8 At the top of each of these eight walls, at the angle of their junction, was placed a plain corbel, from which spring two groining arches, segments of a circle, descending each on the fourth corbel from the one from which it started. Thus from each corbel two groinings go quite round the building. These of course intersected the other groinings ; and so create eight beautiful arches, sharp pointed, while at the top an open space is left, which forms a louvre, with open windows for smoke to wander out, and for fresh air to force a way in. It seems to suggest the use of a central fire ; though there is no sign of any such wasteful way of expending fuel. The openings of this louvre were not filled with glass till 1507.39 For there was plentiful ventilation without these openings ; for each of six of these eight sides has a chimney ; the easternmost side is the entrance from the yard, leading to the College, and the westernmost side was formerly an entry, handy more especially for the Guest-house, and for the chamber and exchequer of the Cellarer, who lived just outside the kitchen. Of these six 37 In 1448 the numbers are given : There were, in the House at Durham, 33 monks and two novices, 35 ; in Finchal, 9 ; in Jarrow, 2 ; in Weremouth, 2 ; in Holy Island, 3 ; Lytham, 2 ; St. Leonard's, 2 (and Stamford also), making, in all, 55. * To this it should be added that in these days of the fourteenth century the lavatory of the brethren was a similar octagon, rising just inside the cloisters at the corresponding place ; so that these two buildings seem to have been meant to flank the buildings and the refectory. 39 "In factura novarum fenestrarum in summitate coquinae." "Durham Account Rolls," p. 105 ; Cellarer's Roll, 1507-8. Groining of the Kitchen THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 43 chimneys one was used as a close-room for curing hams and bacon ; one has now the Deanery cooking-stove, over which formerly was placed the fan of a smoke-jack. Part of this apparatus for cooking whole animals, or at any rate huge masses of beef and mutton, still remains. The other sides show remains of fireplaces of different kinds ; on the south front there is still the oblong iron pot or receptacle for boiling whole fishes, with a small fireplace under it ; this can still be used. The edifice is striking in the novelty and boldness of the treatment. It has also a most picturesque set of roofs, as is seen by the accompanying sketch by Mr. Footitt. We are also very fortunate in having in the Rolls a minute account of the equipment of this important side of monastic life, as well as an enumeration of the food to be supplied for cooking. The Cellarer's Roll here used is dated 1481, and is called a " status officii, " a summary of implements, food in hand, etc. For the kitchen, it says, " 51 platters, 36 dishes, 38 salt-cellars, nine chargers or large dishes, made of electrum, (a sort of brass-stuff) ; 34 platters, 36 dishes, 24 salt-cellars of electrum ; 260 platters in wood, 218 dishes in wood, one brazen mortar with two iron pestles, wherewith to " bray the spices," 2 stone mortars with 3 wood pestles, one great " brandreth " {i.e., a tripod set on the hearth to carry a pot or frying pan) ; one small brandreth, 3 pair of racks, two pairs of cob-irons, two roast irons, 8 long iron-spits, 3 smaller spits, 13 big brass plates, 2 brass chafing dishes, 2 large jars fixed in the fire, 2 large jars for the cooking of meat, 8 brass jars, 5 iron pots to boil things in, 3 vessels of auricalc, {i.e., brass of some kind), to draw wine with ; 2 iron frying plates, 2 pot-clips (said to be instruments for lifting pots off the fire), one flesh hook, one coal-rake, one wooden shovel (such as are still used by bakers), one common shovel, one wheel-barrow, 3 cressets, (being stones with holes in them to burn fat in), one ' sae ' or ' soe,' a two-eared tub (to be carried on a pole), two cans for milk, one scoop (a basin with a handle to lade out water), two meat tubs, one pipe, and one tub in the pastry-house (there being a room for this purpose hard 44 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. by the kitchen), one bolt-cloth (for sifting), 9 tables, or boards, for dressing meat ; two strainers, one iron tripod for frying, 7 iron bars for the big tripod, one gallon measure made of wood, for measuring honey." "In the Flesh Larder: 2 leaden cisterns, 9 steeping tubs, one flesh-axe, two dressing knives, two chopping knives, one slicing knife, one salt box, 23 dressing boards, 24 carcases of oxen salted, one ox carcase powdered (with salt, no doubt), one sheep powdered ; 6 wooden chargers." " In the Fish Larder : 5 steeping tubs, 3 other tubs, 2 steeping barrels, one barrel with fat, two barrels for keeping the fat, one barrel of salted salmon, one barrel of oil, one dressing knife, two chopping knives, one strainer or colander, one pair or ' weez ' {i.e., weights, or wooden scales), with their weights, two dressing boards, two stockfish hammers, one great wooden charger, two wooden bowls." " In the Store House : 1500 red herrings, 60 stock-fish, 330 dog-draves (apparently cod-fish)." " In the Slaughter House : six fed oxen, one flesh-axe, one dressing-knife, 3 head-stalls, 5 stands (?), two cradles or crates, one pipe with a lock to keep fat in, two ' saes,' one leaden vessel, one tub, one hollow vessel, two iron-forks, and two flaying-knives." In a Roll of 1477, 1478, we find payment of i6d. for " uno molitorio pro coquina," a quern or handmill. These then are the properties with which the Convent kept their large company supplied with food. It was rough and plentiful. There are also entries as to the buying of delicacies, got in for some prince or notable person who condescended to become a guest of the House. Entries also as to presents, often in the form of 4d. or 2d. " for the bearer." The staple food was salted and kept ; the entry of beating hammers to soften the tough stock-fish tells us how the cooks tried to make this hard stuff eatable for the brethren. We do not find in this northern house so frequent a purchase of mustard and other spices, as we find in some southern houses. The monks had somehow to make their hard food palatable. 55 W a o H M H < 55 O S t. o n, o o K THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 45 One more point of detail : in about a.d. 1752 Dean Cowper, who was adventurous in changes " put in two handsome Gothick windows into the old octagonal kitchen on the south side facing the college." These windows are still the chief source of light for the servants working in this ancient building.-* The fine architectural book published near the beginning of the nineteenth century by Mr. Billings'* 1 gives an architect's drawing of the groining of the roof of this great kitchen ; Mr. Carter also does the same. This remarkable octagonal chamber is between 36 and 37 feet of diameter ; the lantern above is fourteen feet across. It had also considerable flanking structures on the east and west sides, these were rooms connected with the different offices of the convent. Some of them on the east side have been altered, and adapted for use, with a larder below and two little bedrooms above ; these are comparatively modern ; we can trace on the wall above the place where a larger building was joined to the outer wall of the kitchen. The adjuncts on the west side were absorbed into Canon Wellesley's house, which was half in and half out of the ancient Dormitory running from the kitchen of the west end of the church. Mr. Billings has given us a good account of the kitchen ; I quote it here in full. " The Dean's kitchen was erected by Prior Fossor. Its singular and unique groining is illustrated here (Plate 74), where, for the sake of showing its form, the vertical vanishing-point is used. The frame-work consists of eight half-circular ribs, each extending over four sides of the octavo ; the space left within their intersections being converted into a lantern, most probably for ventilation, as all the food of the Convent was cooked here. It is lighted by two long windows on the south side, and excepting the blocking up of its fireplaces, and the erection of modern fittings, it has not otherwise been altered. "42 40 Probably Dean Cowper, endeavouring to make a better approach to the Deanery, pulled down the large porch erected (Rolls, p. 711), for the considerable cost of ^8.0.0. 41 Billings' "Durham Cathedral," p. 50, and plate 74. 42 Carter, p. 42 and plate 55. 46 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. The Treasurer's Exchequer was " a little stone building " between the kitchen and the Deanery : there was also, besides this exchequer-room, a new larder ; as we may see from the entry in the Rolls43 " In expensis circa novum Scaccarium et lardarium juxta novam Coquinam, xiij/z 3d." These were built, as the Roll tells us, before 1371. On the West side of the kitchen were two considerable chambers, which were given up to the uses of the cellarer and his exchequer. These occupied the position afterwards held by Canon Wellesley's house. This was by no means all the work undertaken and carried out by Prior Fossor in his own house. It was at this time that a noble room was either built or rearranged for him, when the earlier dormitory of the monks was abandoned for the new building parallel with the west side of the cloisters. The Account Rolls keep us well acquainted with the building of this new dormitory, which is now the finest room of the Cathedral Library. The earlier dormitory was inconvenient in position ; it was too near to the Chapter House, not near enough to the Cathedral, for men who had to attend the services twice or thrice each night ; it also hindered the convenient expansion of the house of that great territorial magnate the Prior. So that by day the Prior, and by night the Convent, both wanted a change. Consequently, at the close of the fourteenth century, when Prior Hemingburg was in command, a new task was undertaken by all the wealth of the Convent. There are many items in the Rolls of different Obedientiaries which show how every part of the House contributed to this part of their buildings. The inventory of it is dated 1398 44 ; this was followed by a second inventory in 1401.4s The work went on during these four years ; and on the west side of the cloister, just outside of it, rose now over the " Early English " Undercroft a magnificent chamber about 180 feet long, with a splendid roof still perfectly sound, which, more than a hundred years ago, the ill-omened Wyatt had all but persuaded the Dean and Chapter to pull down as barbarous and unsafe. « Fowler, "Account Rolls," p. 577. « This is printed in the Appendix to the " Tres Scriptores," No. clxxx. 1 " Tres Scriptores," Appendix, p. clxxxvij. r y iUJtms ^**- - *&* &J~ Present Hall. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 47 The whole of the building of this new dormitory was completed in 1404 ; and the brethren then migrated with great satisfaction from their old quarters. Their new sleeping chamber had the advantage of the western sun, to warm it from end to end, and it had also an entrance, broken through the Cathedral wall, from which a wooden staircase led the monks into the south- west corner of the Church ; they had now no need to pass through the wintry air on their way to service. The abandoned dormitory was passed over to the Prior, who made it a very fine hall and refectory with a fine oak roof throughout. It was lengthened to the north, by taking in the older entrance chamber above the stairs out of the cloister, and these steps now fell into disuse and ruin. The two main rooms of the Prior's house were now in full use, as the Camerae superior et inferior, before the large dormitory was added. Since the days of Deans, this dormitory has been divided in two ways, longitudinally and horizontally ; for it is now made into two rooms, the inner hall to the south ; and the dining-room to the north. And this part of it, thanks to the need for servants' rooms in a Dean's family instead of a celibate Priors, has had a ceiling introduced, with a fine oaken work, made of plaster, which still deceives the unwary. The original oaken roof, which shews in the Hall, is hidden away under flat plastering in the bedrooms above. The original height of this hall or dormitory was at the south end forty feet ; and after about ten feet of floor there come five steps, which raise the rest of the floor about three feet and a half. This is due to the fact that the hall is built on the ancient Undercroft, the Norman arches of which require the flooring to be nearly four feet higher than the rest of this first-floor part of the house. On the east side of the hall there shows the outline of an ancient window. It was square at the top, and had two mullions supporting some simple perpendicular tracery, much the same as that which shows in the great South Window. Under this window is the doorway, still in use, which by four steps leads down to the passage towards the eastern rooms. In convent days it was the way to the latrines. These windows of the Priors' Refectory are high up in the wall, being about thirteen feet from the floor. 48 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. The western wall of these two rooms was built in the days of William Rufus. It contains the much later perpendicular window, blocked up, but plainly to be seen from the cloisters, with two mullions and a transom across the window ; there is also an early (blocked up) round- headed window of the Norman period. This western wall forms the support of both the roof of the Hall and Dining Room on the eastern side, on the western side it forms the eastern wall of the ancient Monastic Refectory, now part of the Cathedral Library. This Chamber, left to itself after the dissolution of 1541, 1542, was rebuilt by the care of Dean Sudbury late in the seventeenth century. It is probable, almost certain, that Sudbury placed in the present hall that beautiful specimen of fifteenth century panelling, which forms the main glory of the Hall. It is fine work throughout, varied in character, wit!) many lovely specimens of late perpendicular tracery. It shews much ingenuity in the adaptation of it. On the north wall of the present Hall three tiers of carved work are placed, one over the other, so as to reach a considerable height ; it thus enables the making of a tall door-way into the modern dining-room. This carved work was from time to time clumsily replaced by sham shiny work in painted putty or plaster. This is now all gone ; for our skilful Cathedral carver, Mr. Joblin, has replaced all the old carving, with oak-work so well fashioned and carved that no one can detect any difference between the old and the new. Two at least of the older carved heads of panels had to be redone entirely ; and Mr. Joblin has well reproduced the old traceries. There is a doorway between this hall and the ancient Refectory of the monks, so that the Prior could join them, if he thought well, at their meals. My predecessor, Dean Lake, having Dean Stanley with him as a visitor, asked him to go and see the Cathedral Library through this hidden door ; and the story runs that when Stanley with astonishment saw this entrance to the library opened before him, he caught at the Dean's arm, exclaiming, " Oh ! Lake, if I had known of this, I would not have said No." It seems frcm this tale that Queen Victoria had been desirous of conferring the Deanery of Durham on the man whom she, and all who knew him, esteemed THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 49 and loved for his infinite goodness and brightness and affectionate character. This must have happened not long after Dean Lake's appointment to the Deanery, vacant by the death of Dean Waddington in 1869. That these halls were all in full use in the fifteenth century is made clear by the Bursar's Rolls of 1417-1419. In these he tells us that the Prior's " Solarium," his sunny room, was then inhabited. In fact the only place on the site of the present house which could have been so named, by reason of the south aspect of it, must have been the chamber between the ancient dormitory, which we have but now described, on the one side, and the Prior's Chapel on the other side. In the Rolls just mentioned we find two items bearing on the early existence of these rooms. " In Solario Domini Prioris 6 pp. 4 5 vini pretio xxli ; et pro 18 ollis diversarum mensurarum in eodem Solario pro vino imponendo, xxivs." and then, later on, " Item, in uno dorsol^ et duobus costeris47 in Aula Prioris superiore, et tribus costeris in Camera Prioris inferiore de Worsted paled-t 8 pretio 100s. ;" and again we have " Quatuor boltes 4 9 de Worsted pro costeris in studio Domini Prioris, 28s." This Studium D. Prioris was in all probability the room which is now the Dean's Library and study. so Thus it seems quite clear that at the beginning of Prior Wessington's active rule the two large rooms, above and below, for the Prior and his friends on the upper story, and for his retainers on the lower, were already in full use, though the Rolls do not enable us to give the date of their building. We may assume that John Fossor saw them completed before his death in 1374, though it is quite possible that they were left for his 45 i.e. Pipes. 46 Dorsol or Dorsorium is an ornamental cloth hung at the back (dorsum) of a seat or of the wall of a Hall. 4 ? Costera is simply a hanging drapery of a wall. 48 Worsted paled is striped worsted, so named from a village in Norfolk. 49 Boltes seem to be rolls of stuff. 50 The Roll of 1432, 1433, contains several acknowledgements of work done for the Camera Prioris. 50 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. old friend and comrade, Robert of Berrington, who succeeded him as Prior, and ruled from 1374 to 1391. Throughout all Fossor's time Bennington had been engaged on the improvements carried out by that great Prior. These rooms were, at a later time, altered by introducing larger windows, having perpendicular tracery and square heads. Of this tracery there still remains an example in the building, though it is all but hidden from sight, in the west wall of the Solarium, just above the now existing outside hall. Having been concealed by the more modern work, it has happily escaped the murderous eye of the eighteenth century. It remains untouched by the " restorer," and shows us how the large room was lighted, when it was still a superb Hall. A restoration of it, as it was before plaster roof and sash-windows, is placed opposite this page. This upper chamber is really roofed by a magnificent ceiling of carved oak unfortunately hidden. Of this fine work one bay, the easternmost, is still visible in the passage-way to the smaller rooms in the ancient Chapel. This portion of the Solarium was cut off from the rest in order to make a comfortable access to the eastern chambers without passing through the large drawing-room. And this high roof still exists unspoilt, over the whole of the large Solarium. This was unfortunately "modified," they all thought it greatly improved " for living purposes " in the course of the eighteenth century. For at the west-end of the room, just below the oak-ceiling, and above the modern plaster, there still remains the painting of a coat-of-arms, which identifies itself as the work of Dean Spencer Cowper (whose wife was Lady Dorothy Townshend ; her arms are duly impaled on it) . Now Cowper was Dean from 1746 to 1774 ; and these dates shew that the plaster above was after 1746, and probably before 1774. He may have done it. To a gentleman of that period the carved roof was uncomfortable and out of date . genteel taste condemned it, and the inexorable law of fashion, which did us so much havoc in the Cathedral and elsewhere at the close of the century, led here to the concealment of the fine roof by an alcove of whitewashed Drawing Room. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 5i plaster. The windows also were modernised, and became self-respecting sashes. It must be granted that the smooth roof helps towards warmth ; it is also good for sound ; and the new windows, being placed some two to three feet lower down, enable us to look out into the garden: The original windows were flat-headed, their labels can still be traced on the outside. They were early Tudor work, probably with two mullions ; the heads of them were ornamented by late perpendicular tracery, just indicated on the restoration drawing given above. There are now no traces left in sight of the doorway by which the retainers came up into the Solarium 52 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. from the room below ; it is however still seen plainly on the inside of the spiral staircase. There is one entry in the Rolls bearing on this fine Hall.5 1 I give it here as a puzzle. " Etiam solutum pro lxx Tyldestone pro le hurdesse in magna camera Domini Prioris, i6d." Now tyldestones are certainly stones of thill, that is, " bottom-stones of a coal seam," a hard clayey sandstone, very suitable for paving purposes, and as they run to a considerable size, these seventy stones may have been meant for a new floor for some part, or for the whole, of the hall. This does not explain what is meant by la hurdesse, which is translated to be " the enclosure of some sort ;" as if it was the marking off by hurdles of some division of the hall. It seems a hopeless explanation. The " Camera inferior, " which was directly under the upper Hall, was a dining-room and living-room for the Prior's domestics. Here, too, the windows have been changed, enlarged, and fitted with sash-frames ; movable, and convenient for light and air. In the south-east corner of it is the door that leads to the spiral staircase, now no longer useful for the drawing-room, but very convenient as an easy way of getting out upon the leaden roofs of all these chambers. The doorway is interesting ; it has a * "Account Rolls," p. 657. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 53 well-worked moulding all around it, giving it a character of finish not enjoyed by the other doors of the same type. I am told that this flat-headed and shouldered doorway may be as old as the thirteenth century ; though in this particular case the moulding tells us (so architects say) that it was done much later than that period. There are in the house two other flat-headed doors, both in this lower storey ; and there is also one beautifully struck archway there also, as one passes from the Norman Undercroft to the later rooms on a lower level. This archway is probably of the fourteenth century, and belongs apparently to the time when these rooms were built. This room, about 1899, ran a formidable risk of ruin. At that time the choir-boys, during repairs, &c, going on in their school-room in the College, were having their lessons daily in the "Camera inferior," going to and fro to the house in which some of them lived. One day in going to or returning from their playing-field one of the lads, probably to get hold of a ball which had run into one of the gullies which empty the rain water off the Prebends' Bridge into the Weir, thrust his hand and arm into the gully, and drew out not his ball but a handful of dynamite cartridges. No one knows how they came there ; perhaps left there by some miner and forgotten. These cartridges the boy gave to his friends among the school-fellows ; and the Headmaster, hearing of them, told the lads that they were too dangerous to be a plaything, and made them give them up. One boy, however, kept one in his pocket, till it became at last uninteresting to him. Then as he went out from the Camera he pitched it into a heap of coal and coke kept there for heating the furnace by which the Deanery is warmed. In due time the old man who had charge of the fires unconsciously shovelled the cartridge with a lot of coals into the hot fire, of which he had at once closed the iron door. Most fortunately he moved away at once to get more coal ; for the dynamite quickly exploded with a great noise, and blew out the door of the furnace with such force that it smashed the doorway in the outer wall of the house leading into the garden. The cistern of hot water was ruined, the solid walls cracked. No one was hurt, the old man badly scared ; and the whole place somewhat wrecked. It did not seem to 54 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. do any mischief to the room above ; though the noise of the explosion resounded all through the house. In the one important chamber yet to be described, the Dean's library and study, we have an interesting proof of the existence of this part of the house at an early time. One day as I was copying out a legal document of the year 1343, to be incorporated in the " Remains of Bishop Bury " to be published by the Surtees Society, I became aware that I was actually writing in the very room in which the legal case had been tried at that date. For the document carefully describes the chamber in which the matter was being heard as " Prioris minor camera," and adds that it was built up against the Chapel. Now, this is the only chamber in the house that is built having the north wall of the chapel as one of the walls of it. This same room is mentioned in two documents of the fourteenth century now preserved in the Cathedral Treasury. In the earlier of these two documents (dated nth March, 1343) the Prior, sitting in judgement in this " lesser chamber," heard the inhabitants of the ancient burgh of Durham, as to their use of St. Margaret's chapel ; and granted them leave to have their services there, to bring thither their babes for baptism, and to have their marriages solemnised therein ; and he adds that, this chapel being only an annex of the mother-church of St. Oswald, this privilege should not be taken to grant anything that might prejudice the rights of the Vicar of the mother-church. 5 2 In the other document the Prior gives his judgment in the private chapel itself ; it is interesting, as it provides us with a description of this eastern chamber. The document speaks of the chapel as "juxta et prope minorem Cameram Prioris. "53 The Prior was then granting leave for the foundation of a new religious house, at Laysingby, by John of Lytlegraynes and Alicia his wife. s 2 "Richard of Bury," (Surtees' Society), cxix, p. 167. 5! Given in " Richard Daungerville of Bury," (Surtees Society), cxix, p. 173. Dean's Library. X H « O b g < h o W w" W W H K D i/i H OS W « o 55 « Q « W 55 < W Q to O H 55 O to H tn < 00 H THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 55 This " minor camera," the present Deanery library, was lighted by two fifteenth-century windows, flat-headed ; this is to be seen from the accom- panying drawing made by Mr. Surtees of Mainsforth. This sketch, so kindly lent to me, was taken from the garden of what was then a Canon's house.54 The eastern front of the Library was rebuilt, from the point of junction with the ancient chapel to the old buttress which supports the wall and roof, a distance of eighteen feet, with new windows and, beyond the buttress, a new doorway in the window, with a stone staircase leading down into the garden. This is well shown on Mr. Footitt's admirable sketch of the north- east corner of the house. This new work is in nineteenth-century gothic, very hard and sound and plain, giving good light into a working-room. It also appears from Colonel Surtees' sketch, made apparently by his grandfather the author of the great History of Durham County, that in the beginning of the nineteenth century there was an entrance into the lower storey on this east front, as well as a low arch, connecting the entrance with a considerable modern room shewing a gable and window towards the east. In the north wall of this " lesser chamber " there was formerly a doorway leading into the room at the North-east angle of the house, which is now styled " King James' room." One may fairly guess that this corner room was the sleeping room of the Prior, or possibly some smaller chamber in which he held conversations, &c, with visitors. We may feel sure, as this eastern chamber was then in full use, as well as the two main rooms, the Solarium, and the servants' hall under it, that a great amount of work would have to be done in all of them from time to time. Thus, in 1414, the Bursar enters a charge of us. 2d. for a thousand " spones," or shingles, for the roof of the Prior's chamber, and in Wessington's days (1416-1446) a large sum had to be spent, as is recorded, on repairs. The entry in the 54 This sketch was found in a MS. volume at Mainsforth, and is given here by the kind permission of Colonel H. Conyers Surtees. 56 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Rolls is as follows : " For the construction and repairs of various chambers belonging to the Prior with their appurtenances, 419/1, 10s. 3d. ob. This is one of the heaviest payments in all the Rolls ; it seems to prove that some of the rooms of the Prior's house were being Sketch of TrActrf THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 57 built ; perhaps it may be that the rooms on the north side of the house, between the " King James' " room and the great hall, or Refectory of the Prior, and behind the latrines, were then constructed. On Wessington's death in 1446 we find an interesting summary of the rooms, etc., of the Prior's house in the Account Rolls. From this we can see how complete it had become. The catalogue of them runs thus : — The Chapel, the Wine Cellar (no doubt, as now, part of the Norman Undercroft), the Upper Chamber or Solarium, the Lower Chamber under it, the Hall, the Promptuarium or Storeroom, the Chamber under the vault (that is the crypt or Undercroft under the Chapel), the Wardrobe, the Refectory, the Kitchen, the Granary, and the Bursary, together with certain stables. The four rooms mentioned last were no doubt rooms common between Prior and Convent. It will be seen that the rooms at the back, the " King James' room," and that which is now a visitor's sitting room, are not noticed. Now the easternmost of these was certainly in being before Prior Wessington's time ; for there is on the north wall of it the remains of an interesting window in the " first decorated " period — that is, of the fourteenth century. A sketch of this window, with a restoration of it, accompanies this page. It gives light still to the Undercroft under King James' room, under which is the great cesspool or receptacle for all the ancient latrines now closed up ; it is described later on. 55 Prior Wessington in his long rule over the Convent was a very vigorous head. He has left behind him a remarkable MS., working out the legal rights and privileges of the Prior of Durham. In this, among other things, he appears to have given to that chief officer of the house the right and duties of an archdeacon, at any rate over a limited portion of the Palatinate Diocese. He writes, " Jura et privilegia Archidiaconatus Prioris in ecclesiis suis," as if he meant thereby to secure to the Prior the Archdeacon's authority and position over the Convent livings in his charge. 55 p. 68. 58 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. We find in the Cathedral Rolls for 1379, I 38o,5 6 that £4, 17s. iod. were spent by the Convent " circa ordinationem Novae Aulae pro Camera Prioris ;" so that it is plain that the Prior succeeded at once to the enjoyment of the ancient Dormitory, now that the brethren had shifted their lodgings to the new building on the west side of the Cloisters. Later on, in 1431, 1432,57 there is an entry, " super facturam novarum camerarum Domini Prioris ; et in stipendio Johannis Power, Kervour, operantis ibidem per xix septi- manas ad diversa pretia super le Sylyng de le Parlours 8 et Camerae Domini Prioris." This gives us, finally, all the knowledge we get from the documents as to the construction and keeping of the Prior's House ; by this time he had annexed all the chambers his dignity might seem to need. We also have in the Rolls some account of the payment by the Prior, (or, more probably, by the Convent, for they, not he, paid the bills), for furnishing these fine rooms. In the general inventory of 1446, at a time when (as the document tells us) there were 49 monks, " expectantes Monachi moram trahentes,' as it says with a half-mournful recognition of the slow waiting for death ; these forty-nine were all residentiary in the Convent, while there were above thirty more settled in the cells attached to this great house. The occasion is taken to give a full description of the furnishing of all the chambers, from the Prior's Chapel downwards. The Chapel furniture we have already given, nor need we here delay over the interesting account of the jewels possessed by the House, with their silver vessels and implements. 59 Let us pass on at once to the description of the furniture of the " Camera Superior." First, a bed with hanging curtains, rugs, canopies, and two counterpanes, of blue say (or serge) all of one colour ; there were striped hangings, covering the walls, the stripes being dark blue and light ; then one canopy, one dormond s 6 Fowler's " Account Rolls," p. 589. 57 Fowler's "Account Rolls," p. 710. 58 It is probable that this work on the ceiling gives us the date of that most beautiful work in the ceiling of King James' room, which may have been the parlour or Locutorium. 59 These are given in full in the " Tres Scriptores," pp. cclxxxvi, cclxxxvij. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 59 (the meaning of this unknown, it may be the frame-work of a bed, from L. dormire) the upper part being blue, with roses in the corners ; a pair of new blankets, a pair of linen sheets, one cushion or pillow, with the four Evangelists in the corners, one blue bed with a rug, on which leopards, pelicans, and trees were woven ; also two pieces in blue, for a seat or a " cancellus," two pieces of cloth, to be laid on benches, striped dark and light blue ; ten cushions of blue say ; one pair of large knives, containing each four pieces, with silver-gilt handles ; also, one pair of three knives, the handles whereof are of ivory, and in part silver-gilt. For the Camera Inferior there is an echo of the above. First a similar bed, with curtains of blue in two shades ; one canopy, one large " dormond " with IHC carved in the corners ; this shows that a " dormond " was made of wood. A pair of new fustian blankets, and another pair of blankets ; one pair .of linen sheets, a pillow of which the upper part is in greenish-gray ; another pillow with a two-headed eagle ; also, a good bed with a rug, with trees and pelicans inwoven in divers colours ; also, five cushions of blue say ; one blue piece for the " cuppborde of say " ; also a table of spruce wood with leaves ; also, for another bed there a feather-bed, a "dormond," a pair of blankets, a pair of linen sheets ; one bed in white with a rug showing trees and wreaths inwoven. In the Chamber under the vault, one canopy, one dormond, one pair of blankets, one pair of linen sheets, one pillow, one bed with butterflies inwoven ; also, a piece of blue-stuff to cover the seat ; a pair of hand irons, or fire-dogs ; also a poker and an iron shovel. To these the Inventory adds — for the Hall, one dorsal or hanging cloth, in six pieces, with St. Cuthbert's birds on it and the Arms of the Church ; two pieces of blue stuff embroidered with wreaths with the words " Deo Gratias," with two pieces of blue stuff without embroidery. Six cushions with crowned lions and an inscription " De le Roi " ; seven cushions, four of one set three of another, and three platters of auricalc (brass, that is, of some kind), and three basons for washing; two of these are at Bearpark, the Prior's favourite country-house. 60 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. In the Prior's Refectory we find, first, thirteen gilt cups ; twelve of these have covers, one not ; then two cups ungilt, with one cover ; a piece on a foot, having a cover with an eagle atop, a piece with a cover standing on four gilt angels ; also four plain pieces which formerly belonged to Richard Hesswell, 60 having each a cover with a broad knob on it, engraved with his name ; two plain pieces with two covers ; six plain pieces, formerly belonging to John Fisheburn ; eight plain pieces of different makes ; also six beaks of different patterns, also thirteen beaks with two lids, also one large deep piece which formerly belonged to Thomas Gretham ; also twelve antique beaks, in the charge of John Dale ; also three cocoa-nuts with three silver- gilt stems, of these one has a lid. Also 211 silver spoons of diverse work and weight ; also two silver vessels, each holding one pottle (or four pints) ; two silver viols gilt, and three salt-cellars of one pattern, four silver salt-cellars of divers patterns ; twelve silver dishes with the letters Re.F. along the border ; five silver doblers 6l ; eleven salt-cellars of divers fashions ; twelve platters and two chargers in silver, with a crowned R. on them, with the arms of Walter Skirlaw, a gift from Richard Hessewell ; one mazer with a gilt foot, called " Herdwyke," having d lid ; another mazer for the High Table in the Refectory, with a lid ; a cup called " Beda " ; thirteen great and broad mazers, with one lid, three of them mounted on stems and feet ; thirty-three common mazers, and one cocoa- nut, with two coverings or lids. For the kitchen this is the enumeration : — Two salted carcases of oxen, worth each 6s. 8d. ; at Beaurepair 115 oxen and cows, worth each 6s. 8^. ; at Rilley 22 cows and one bull, 314 sheep of different ages, worth 14^. each ; two sows and a boar. In store of fish, 36 dogdraves (cod), worth 12s. ; and 1200 salt herrings. In spices, seven dozen of pepper, three dozen of almonds, one ' copil ' (couple of baskets) of figs and raisins, two dozen of rice, two pounds of dates, one quarter of ' saundres ' (of red-sandal wood for 60 This is the fifteenth century monk, the great slab over whose body was transferred in 1543 to the Church, and still lies over the bones of St. Cuthbert and St. Oswald's head. 61 " Doblers " or dishes in silver are probably the L. Lat. Duplarium, given by Dnncange as a " mensura liquidorum," and used for wine-measures. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 61 colouring purposes), one quarter of saffron, two dozen of raisins of Corinth (the genuine Currants), and two pounds of cloves. This is the furniture of the usual round of life of the Prior. His Refectory, which at last became a stately chamber for his use, furnished to give hospitality to all his guests, large and small, lies north and south, from the Chapter House out buildings to the open south. In the fifteenth century it appears that the windows of it were enlarged or remade. The south window was rebuilt in 1476, as we learn from an entry in the Bursar's roll of that date. 62 " Solutum Thomae Shawden pro nova factura duodecim pedum et dimidii in magna fenestra Aulae Domini Prioris, ad 2d." The breadth of this window is now eleven feet six, or rather more ; the three mullions of it count for about a foot and a half, or nearly so, so that Shawden's 12J feet will have been ample for the glass of the whole window which is somewhat higher than it is broad. And the Bursar in his Roll for 1482, 1483, enters yet another charge, for " divers windows," so that it seems that not only the large south window, but the other perpendicular windows were now refitted, so as to carry throughout the Hall the taste of the fifteenth century. " Solutum Thomae Shawden pro operatione 34 pedum diversarum fenestrarum vitrearum, viz., Aulae Domini Prioris, Refectorii, Dormitorii." The roll does not state the cost of this, still the items show that the whole house was protected with glass at this time. It is interesting to note the fact that the usual flooring of rushes also went on : " pro Aula, Camera, et Capella Domini Prioris, et pro Refectorio " (i.e., of the Monks) in 1419, 14s. gd. Thus, then, the lordly house was complete, in buildings and furniture, early in the fifteenth century. After it came into the hand of Deans, who had to arrange for children and servants, these chambers suffered loss. For the convenience of modern life this fine Hall was sub-divided ; a thin partition turned it into two chambers, a hall and a large dining-room ; while the latter lying towards the north had a floor thrown over it, and three bedrooms for servants were created above it. Over this room there is a handsome looking ceiling, imitating worked oak ; it is naught but plaster. The dining- 62 "Durham Account Rolls," Vol. Ill, p. 646. 62 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. room has four modern windows. In older days, when it was the dormitory of the Convent, there used to be an entrance on the north-side of the chamber, just above where come the outside steps, communicating with the cloister. The staircase and landing must have made the room shorter than it is now. This staircase, ten or eleven feet wide, runs under the north end of the present dining room ; and no doubt led up to a platform, as the doorway must have been at right angles to the steps. This large doorway has left no trace ; the present room runs to the wall of the southern premises of the Chapter House. The dates of the ceilings of these rooms, three of them being of the fifteenth century or earlier, cannot accurately be ascertained. John Power, " Kervour," was certainly the carver who did much of this woodwork ; he was at work on it from 1431 to 1433. In the Roll which gives us this fact, there is also a reference to the roof of the present library. For it reads, " In stipendio R. Wryght et aliorum operantium super dolatione meremii pro parva camera Domini Prioris, 10s. 2d." It is not known, unfortunately, when the ceiling of the King James' room was put up : it shews signs of a juncture across the middle of it ; so that it has been suggested that it was originally the roofing of two rooms, transferred thither at some later time. Still, no other rooms in the house are of dimensions that would take the two parts of this ceiling. It is now certainly the most remarkable work of art possessed by the Deanery. It is religious in tone throughout, as will be seen by the carved bosses. There we find the i b C on one ; on another the Lamb and Flag ; on another the cognisance of the Prior and Chapter, on another a chained hart ; then a most interesting boss, with three rabbits nibbling at fruit ; another has a heart at the crossing of the St. Andrew's cross ; the crown of thorns ; the fieur-de-lys ; and the flag of our dear Lord's resurrection. On one there is the Tudor rose, which seems to indicate the date of the work. There runs round the chamber a most exquisite brattishing. Everywhere there shines conspicuous the taste, reserve, and skill of an artist. The whole is in beautiful condition, excepting some part of the delicate brattishing, which has suffered. There is no weakness in it ; the main circular bosses shew great ingenuity and freshness ; there are exquisite floral designs, deep cut and varied. The Bosses of the Ceiling of King James* Room. Arms of the Bishopric (or See of Durham). Prior Castel's Badge I^^RtfHMItM^H^MMl f VM %v i mat Ef £ 2 Cornice (or brattishing). THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 63 repetition of the roses shows that it was done about the days of Henry VII. The boss that shows Castel's token, the sword piercing the heart, proves that it was done in the time of Prior Castel (a.d. 1424-1519). One is tempted to think that one of the splendid workmen of Somerset or Devon had found his way to the north, though indeed it may be older than much of the superb and lavish ornamentation of those south-western rood-screens. The room was certainly attached to the " parva Prioris camera," which had been built before the middle of the fifteenth century. For it has a doorway through the south wall of it, leading into that camera. The following items probably refer to the carving of the ceiling of the King James' room. " In stipendio Johannis Power, Kervour, operantis ibidem (i.e., in cameris Domini Prioris) per xix septimanas ad diversa pretia, super le sylyng de le Parlour et Camera Domini Prioris, 37s. If we may assume that this reference to the Camera and the Parlour indicates the combination of the two rooms, we shall find here an earlier date for this fine carved work ; this Roll is of the minerals (chiefly coal) dated 1431, 1432. The story of this room must conclude with the one historic event which tradition tells us, and in this case truly, took place in this fine chamber. In 1603, King James VI of Scotland " receiving intelligence of the most plausible passages to the enlargement of his Stile and Dominion, prepared himself thitherward, and upon the sixth of April came to Barwick, thence to Newcastle, Durham, Yorke, Doncaster, Newarke, Burleigh, Roiston, Theobald's, and thence to London upon the seventh of May. In all which places he was most royally and joyfully received with all demonstrations of truest loyalty, love, and obedience, which was no lesse benignly accepted of his Majesty. " 6 3 At Durham the coming King slept for one night at the Deanery ; and this chamber was his bedroom. We have no other historical facts to state as to this sojourn of the King. The archives of the Cathedral do not appear to contain any notice of his fleeting visit ; it is plain that King James did not wish to present himself to his people before accepting the English crown in London. « Speed's "History of Great Britain, 1615," p. 1240. 64 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. The roofs of this chamber, of the Solarium, of the Refectory, and even of the Library (parva camera) deserve a special study. There was also a similar roof or ceiling to the great chamber of the retainers, above the Library and King James' room. The springs of the greater joists still show on either side ; the room must have run from the Chapel north wall to the end of the house northwards. None of this roof is now visible ; for that beloved plaster ceiling in white covers all. The subject demands more time than I can give, and more knowledge and skill than I possess ; something might be made out of it, from the way in which the chamfered sides of the main joists are stopped when they reach the wooden corbels on which they -rest. The most interesting chamber in the present Deanery is perhaps the inner hall, which was made, after the Reformation changes, out of the southern part of the ancient Dormitory of the brethren. It took the present shape and dimensions towards the end of the seventeenth century, when Dean Sudbury, who was appointed directly after the restoration (1681-1684), set himself to restore and appoint these parts of the buildings. When he undertook to deal with the Prior's Refectory (which was the earlier Dormitory of the monks) he also restored the chamber by the side of it, to be used as a part of the Cathedral Library. This was then in a ruinous state : it had been the Frater-house of the monks, and when they had to depart in 1542, all seem to have regarded it as a useless structure to be left to fall to pieces as it would. 6 4 In the Restoration Sudbury undertook it ; rebuilt the walls, placed in them seventeenth century windows on both sides, north and south, and covered all 0J There was a dangerous tendency in the sixteenth century to allow all old things to slip into decay. We can see this also in Hegge's " Legend of St. Cuthbert," said to have been written in 1625 : " If this be true, he says, then sure am I that St. Cuthbert's books had twice better fortune in the sea, then they have now in his librarie at Durham, which once was a little Vatican of choyce MSS. but now rather a Bibliotaphion than a librarie, rather a sepulcher of books than a place to conserve them. For since the arte of printing was invented, whereby men could attaine, after a more cheap and easie way, to some superficial learning, old MSS. were straight bequeathed to the moths ; and pigeons and jackdaws became the only students in Church libraries ; the books wounded for their pictures with as great crueltie as Cassian or Johannes Scotus Erigena martyred by their scholars." THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 65 with a plain flat roof. He then furnished it with some fine bookcases, with convenience for students to read and write. At this time he doubtless also cleared the lower part of the walls of all that very beautiful and varied panelling in oak, the glory of the present hall. It is of a good, rather late, perpendicular type, and may have been done for Prior Castell, whose badge and symbol, the winged heart pierced through with the sword, can be seen in one of the little coats of arms which break the monotony of the large south window of the hall. On the north side of this fine chamber is a thin lath and plaster wall, which separates the dining-room from the hall ; here the panel is in three tiers. It was a strange device for covering these walls, but singularly successful, as may be seen from the adjoining photograph. Either in Dean Sudbury's day or later, a spirit of church- wardenship must have entered into some Dean ; for he allowed broken parts, or missing ornaments, to be " made up," sometimes with plaster or sometimes with putty, coloured with paint, so as to deceive the eye. This has now been replaced, as has before been said. In the "Rites of Durham" the writer, describing the Frater-house, speaks of the wainscoting of it with carved wood ; " two yards and a half in height, this wainscot hath engraved on the top of it ' Thomas Castel, Prior, a.d. 1518, mensis Juki." So, as he adds, " it is plain that Castel did wainscot the old Frater roundabout." The Rolls give us some small facts about the Hall. In 1440 16s. were laid out in buying two rolls of say or serge ; these were then dipped and stained in colour, then 6s. 3^. were paid for making up this material into draperies or hangings, as well as for repair of tapestries or cloths which were already hung round the Hall ; also they paid for comfortable cushions for my Lord the Prior. " In emendatione dorsoriorum et le qwisshyng Aulae Domini Prioris." These draperies are described in one of the Rolls thus : " One of such dorsoria (dossals), was in six pieces, on which were worked in pattern St. Cuthbert's birds, and the armorial bearings of the Church : there were also three pieces of ' blodium,' blue stuff, embroidered with " Deo Gratias," as if Bishop Fox had had a hand in putting them there. Besides all this, and apparently distinct from 66 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. the furnishing of the Guest House, there were for the use of the ' Hospitium Prioris ' silver vessels, jars, smaller pieces of silver, large goblets, candelabras, salt-cellars, spoons, to the value of 186/i, us. 8d." One of the windows belonging to the fifteenth century in the Hall can still be traced above the Cloisters ; another, quite blocked up, remains in the present Hall, just above the doorway leading to the east of the house. This window must have been blocked up early, as the buildings have covered it completely. We know also that the south window was made in 1341 by Prior Fossor. It now has in it, or rather, on it fastened by wires only, ten little coats of arms, or tokens, partly of personages connected with this house or Diocese. 6 5 Of these the most interesting is the token of Prior Castel, for the Hall owes much to him : it is a winged heart pierced through with a sword. The Hall had also a buttery attached to it, in all probability on the south west side. In 1430 we find that R. Wryght was paid 2s. yd. for making lockers in " Butria 66 Domini Prioris." It was, no doubt, a kind of Butler's Pantry ; the word is also written " Butellaria." There are a few entries which seem to belong to this great Refectory. Thus, in 1432, 1433, the expenses include work at .the Prior's chambers ; making a Gargola or Gurgoyle, a spout, and mending the roof of lead over them ; it came to 12s. 2d. William the Glazier was occupied in the next year making a bay-window ; there is no such window now in existence. The entry is " Willelmo Glasyer pro factura de le bay-wyndowe." There was also attached to the Prior's Refectory, or to his kitchen, a room for making pastry ; thus, in 1474 to 1478, " pro nova constructione unius Pastehouse juxta ostium coquinae ; " 6 7 and certain other small 65 These ten glass emblazonments are arranged in three groups, four in the first, four in the second, and two in the lowest line ; they contain (reckoning from east to west) : Top row 1, St. Oswald ; 2, Bishop Hatfield ; 3, The Dean and Chapter ; 4, Prior Castel. Middle, 5, St. Edmund, King of England ; 6, Ella, King ; 7, Wulphere, King of Mercia ; 8, Cerdic, King of Wessex. Lowest : 9, unknown ; 10, Edwin, King of Northumbria. 66 A Butria was a place for butts or bottles, cups and goblets ; bulla or bytta is L. Lat. for a Cup. The Butler is the Cup-bearer. 6 ? " Durham Account Rolls," p. 94. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 67 things were done. Thus, four trellis windows were bought for the kitchen at the small cost of 8d. It is probable that the cooks found the open louvre-windows in the octagon above too windy for their work. Two door-posts for the slaughter-house, which must have been quite close, were set up ; and rather later on comes the addition of two troughs in the same for the oxen ; then comes the shaping and flagging of 29 'fother' (cart-load) of flat stones for the "pigs-garth," "in orto porcorum " ; for a wall between the wright-garth and the swyn-garth, plainly two outside buildings of the Abbey ; then, for two men who "trilled out," (that is, drilled) openings for the making of windows; for mending and raking out the joints of the kitchen walls ; for flagging the goose-house, and the seething-house ; for making one le spoute between the Pandoxatorium {i.e., the Brew-house) and the pigs' garth. They also had made for i6d. a " molitorium," probably a quern or handmill for the cook ; they also paid i2d. for lez Soteltez to be made for Christmas Day ; these were cunning devices in pastry and confectionery, representing divers subjects, historical or allegorical, and often carrying an inscription on them. And, happily, they laid out 3d. " pro purgatione coquinae." These little matters may sometimes have been for the whole convent, rather than for the Prior's comfort. Still, they help towards our knowledge of the way of life in the fifteenth century. We still have to go through the remaining features of the Deanery ; they will not take us long. At the back of the Solarium, or Upper Camera, there now runs a long high and narrow passage, leading from the inner hall to the eastern parts of the house. The creation of this curious and narrow passage (only three feet three inches broad) indicates to us that the time had come when it had grown inconvenient or unpleasant to make all the main rooms of a house passage-ways towards the chambers beyond them. For by this narrow way the servants and the visitors can reach all the eastern parts of the house, its main living and sleeping rooms, without disturbing any one who might be in the larger drawing-room. This passage was made over or through the original latrines of the Convent ; for these began hereabouts, and were therefore most handy for the first Dormitory of 68 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. the brethren. There was a considerable amount of work done carefully in this respect in the Norman days. There were sensible vent-ways upwards, which still give some light to the passage ; and the drains ran from west to east underneath the house till they reached a square chamber, underneath what is now the coal cellar under King James' room. This Norman reservoir was a chamber some seven to eight feet square, built of stones worked Norman fashion, placed against the eastern wall of the house, and approached by a trap door. From this place everything apparently ran outside the house. It has a semi-circular arched roof, clearly Norman, with (North) GROUND PLAN. a rebec) ' ' , Trap roof ', 1 1 door ■i i i ' BASEMENT PLAN SECTION A. A ( looking North) ^TTnr »)/»»>r»n////tf'!i ^r SECTION E.E. ( looking £ast) THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 69 one arch running from North to South, this is flanked by two smaller semi-circular arches at right angles. It is all built in Norman work in stone ; on the eastern side of it was a doorway now blocked up ; and there was also a semi-circular arch above, over the main part of it. Mr. Hills, in his valuable paper on the different parts of the Deanery, describes this passage, and adopts the view that it was made at some time, probably in the seventeenth century, by partly quarrying through the broad wall which forms the back bone of the whole edifice, and partly through the ancient latrines which lay along this line. The wall of the Solarium must have been nearly, if not quite nine feet thick. " On the upper floor," Mr. Hills writes, " it has been hollowed out to form a passage way down its whole length, a work which, whenever it was done, was, I have no doubt, facilitated by the previous existence in it of the narrow recesses and shafts of the latrines, which would descend unto the principal sewer of the Prior's house." If this is so, and it seems not unlikely, the main part of the house is really supported on the south and the north by the remainder of that massive wall standing firmly on either side of the passage. Even now we can trace underneath the habitable rooms, the existence of one such latrine, with an eastern window blocked up. On the south wall of the approach to this little " secreta camera Prioris " there still remains an interesting feature, being about the size and shape of a church piscina, save that it has no escape hole for water, after the manner of a piscina. It has a ledge of three facets of a little octagon, standing out into the passage before the little chamber is entered. This " secreta camera " apparently had two approaches, one from the dark stairs which descend from the lobby above to the place where coals are kept ; and the other approach is through a doorway in the coal-room itself. It is a dark and deep place, and the mystery of it has naturally created the common tradition that here was the entry to that secret passage, which tradition boldly says passed under the Cathedral, and after that under the Wear, and so made its obscure way, in all quite four miles, to Finchale cell. This legend, common to many monasteries, has surely originated out of the modern notion that every active monk was always longing for adventures, and fashioning for himself some 70 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. secret way of escaping from the monotony and strictness of the Benedictine rule. One can dismiss the matter by saying that it is a late tradition, entirely devoid of foundation. Mr. Hills appears to have thought that the " minor camera " was built by Prior Fossor, and that he had attached two latrines to it. Yet it is perfectly clear that this chamber was used as a sort of justice room before Prior Fossor's day, as we have already shown. To the north of this long and narrow passage lie two rooms, a small one to the east, which now serves as a dressing room for visitors who use the fine King James' room as a bedroom, and a larger chamber looking out upon the rebuilt Chapter House, a quiet sitting room for friends, whether they smoke or not. It has in it an interesting made-up chimney piece. In this chamber in 1891 the bones of St. Cuthbert with the head of St. Oswald were solemnly kept for ten days, till a suitable oaken coffin for them could be made ; they were then restored to their due resting place in the platform to the east of the Neville Screen in the Cathedral. It now remains for us to look at the upper rooms over this chamber of King James I, and over the Dean's Library. Mr. Hills tells us that the upper rooms have "no claim to antiquity." Yet there is a good ground for holding that he is here mistaken. For the footings of the elbows for the joists of a broad ancient roof remain on both sides ; shewing that originally the two rooms and their two dressing- rooms were all one spacious chamber. In the eighteenth century this was rearranged by running a passage way along the western wall of it, in which the footings of the oak roof still can be seen ; by this passage the three upper rooms of the chapel-building can be reached. It seems that this large chamber must have been the quarters of the retinue and servants of the Priors. There is the same work on the mouldings of the support of the main joists here as there is in some of the downstairs chambers. They are stopped in the same way, for example, Spring of Ceiling of Retainers' Hall. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 7i as are those of the " camera minor," the Library underneath, and this seems to show plainly that the same builders and masons worked at both these parts — as indeed it is but natural that they should have done. The wooden roof of the Hall is not so worked ; that part of the Prior's quarters is of an older date. Dean Spencer Cowper, a vigorous man of means, with a quite modern taste for eighteenth century notions about building and decoration, in 1748 or 1749, " pulled down an old part of the Deanery, next the garden facing the south, and rebuilt the same in a handsome manner ; he also altered and improved (as such "things were then called) some of the appartements behind the great room." This description of his work clearly refers to the staircase leading from the front door to the outer hall. No other modern work exists on the south front of the house, and even here the changes were small ; there still remains a little fifteenth century window in the old eastern wall of this part of the place. It is now blocked up, yet it still shews that it had been well cusped in the arch of it. So that it is plain that Dean Cowper's modern things meant only a better staircase, ■ with a circular window in the wall of it, and probably also the outer part of the hall above, with late sashed windows. The rooms at the back of the " Great Room " are in their present state quite modern ; though there were clearly some rooms in old times here also. They were at least recast, as to windows, doorways, etc., in the eighteenth century. They now form a dressing room for King James' room ; a smoking-room, and a little lavatory. All these lie along the northern side of the long narrow passage. 72 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Here we reach the end of this long description of the history of this interesting house. It remains for us simply to draw out, as can be done from our ancient records, a picture of the chief of the ancient convent, the Prior, with Abbatial privileges, head of this fine monastery of the Benedictine order. Here, as elsewhere, this group of men, devoted to their true lord at Rome, came in with the Norman lords ; they seized the strategic point of every city they made or occupied ; they drove out the easy-going canons with their wives and families, replacing them with the celebate company of determined monks. By this they made many Cathedral churches to be in spirit and in form ecclesiastical fortresses, garrisoned by a grim force of militant churchmen, well-ordered, and ready to be led to victory by some strong abbot or Prior. Compact they dwelt under the shelter of these noble churches, " half church of God, half fortress 'gainst the Scot," in which they wielded the two-edged sword of temporal and spiritual authority. Most, however, of the changes that befel this old house of Durham were due to the general changes in life. No longer was the House the lodging of some fine celibate prince of men, with his many officers and retainers at call, and in command of a body of monkish warriors, fighting sometimes with prayers, sometimes with curses ; it was now to become the house of successive married men, who with their wives lacked many conveniences not dreamt of before. For they had children and servants to lodge, and the stately conventual house bowed to these modern needs. The old dormitory, which had become the Prior's Refectory, was cut in two by a lath and plaster wall ; over the northern part of it was thrown a floor, so making bedroom above ; and it was now thought indecorous to pass through the living rooms to the bedrooms ; so that smaller changes followed, by which an ingenious passage made a way to the eastern chambers of the Deanery. The old Prior's chapel was turned into rooms ; the large western door was left inaccessible, and fresh approaches made to it. This went also with the deplorable modernising of the great Solarium ; more than ten feet of it was cut off to make a passage outside ; and in this gangway fortunately it was not thought necessary to conceal the noble roof. The triumphant rule of modern plaster and whitewash was not pressed on so far. The same period THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 73 that saw these sad " improvements " also saw the creation of a nearly square pantry, built against the ancient wall of the Hall, and over the entrance to the cloisters. There is a record that " the Deanery was very much improved by Dr. Comber, the late Dean, who built a new apartment to it. 68 This pantry however bears not his coat of arms, but the shield of Dean Waddington, who was a large builder, both here and at the east end of the house. It is now time that we should turn our attention to the occupants of this ancient house. One cannot attempt any sketch of the sequence of the Priors, who for five centuries were in command here ; still less would we give a description of the Deans during the last three hundred and sixty years. It must be enough for us to work out from our plentiful Rolls the picture of a great and dignified Prior, very powerful as a feudal noble or gentleman who was also (in theory at least) a humble monk. To attempt this has now become possible for us, by the valuable help of that singularly accurate and painstaking editor of the " Durham Account Rolls," our dear friend, Canon Fowler. Without his large work and labours of many years what could have been done ? He has made it easier for us with his work in three volumes issued by the Surtees Society, the pagination of which runs up to 1056 pages, with also an index and introduction, placed of necessity at the end of the whole work. With this in hand, the work has been made fairly easy. For the Rolls are a mine of curious inconsequent interesting facts, all brought into our eyesight by the loving work of the faithful editor. Out of the loose diggings from this mine let us endeavour to create a living Prior of olden days ; to pourtray his condition and estate at the days of his highest lordliness. We shall clearly see that we are dealing with one who was a man of a dignified religious standing, for he was the head and ruler of an ancient corporation, always firmly bound to the 68 At the end of the book I have printed also a Receivers' Roll for 1432, because it shows how many things were being done, even at so early a date, to make the house more comfortable. 74 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Benedictine rule ; while, at the same time, thanks to the territorial extent of his lands and those of the Convent, he was also a country gentleman of wealth and high authority. He wielded those autocratic powers which in the feudal world pertained to the head of a large and active community. Supported by a well-chosen band of obedientiaries, he and his lieu- tenants took charge of the various sides of Convent life ; he had to see to all things that related to the conduct of divine service, to care of the fabric, to education of the Convent school ; then he had to keep a sharp eye on the home affairs of the community ; and lastly, he had the charge of visiting the estates, a duty full of practical business, which was repaid by the consideration and amusements as well as by the anxieties of a country gentleman. In the Cathedral he might be only the second in command under the Bishop ; even then, when presiding in the Monastic Chapter he was a dignified ecclesiastic, to whom all paid reverence ; when he made progress through the estates he was the equal of neighbouring lay lords, receiving a like homage, accepting the benefits and courtesies of feudal use, enjoying to the full the special and well protected amusements of the chase. The organisation of officers under him was in these early days quite unique. Where in the half-civilised world around him was there a system of general polity so well ordered and so active as that of a great Benedictine house ? Certainly not in the feudal castle, with fierce warrior lords and a turbulent horde of "devils not men," as the "English Chronicle" calls them ; not in the medieval city, whose powers and privileges were still uncertain and precarious ; not in King's courts, which came and went, simply ignorant of ministers and divisions of labour. Nowhere was the society so clearly in the hands of responsible officers. We can see in a well ordered Convent the germ of all modern transference of work and authority to special ministers, in a wholesome division of labour. As was but natural, the manner of election of a new Prior was somewhat complicated. The electing body included all the monks living in the Convent or in any of the Cells. Therefore when a Prior died, or resigned his office, (and things in Durham were often so burdened and so difficult that a man of peace was tempted to abandon the struggle against those partisan annoyances that disappointed ambition, or the interference of a haughty THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 75 bishop often inflicted on the Prior) the first thing was to send out quick messengers to the various Cells, summoning their Priors and members to Durham for the election. At the same time the Convent sent other members to obtain the necessary permission of the Bishop of the Diocese for this solemn election. This was a very costly preliminary. We have in the "Account Rolls" (p. 614), an example of it: "For the expenses of Thomas Ryhale, for going to Calais, sojourning there, and returning thence, to meet the Bishop of Durham there, in order to obtain from him a licence for the election of the new Prior, 66s. 8d." So that it cost, apart from fees, quite £40 of our money to get this permission to elect. This was after the death of Prior Hemyngburgh, and before the election of John Wessyngton in 1416. Then, when leave had been obtained, and the distant brethren called in, the Convent proceeded to an election ; after which, the new Prior had to meet the charge of heavy fees ; as we see from another entry (p. 631). ' To the Rector of Ryton, and other witnesses examined, at the election of the Prior, 2s. 3^. ; and in presents to the servants of the Lord Bishop at Auckland, on the first visit of the Prior to the Bishop after his election and his confirmation, 66s. 8d." On William Ebchester's election in 1446, also, " the expenses of John Gatesheved, the Terrar, having gone towards Howden for the confirmation of the Prior, 6s. 8d." In 1417 two monks had to travel to London for this confirmation. Also there was a charge for sending information to the Bishop as to the resignation of John Wessyngton (in 1446) " tribus vicibus," 33s. \d. ; they paid to Master Richard Wetwang and William Bispham, lawyers, both for their expenses and also as a present from the Lord Prior for their work done at the time of his election, 115s. ; also to Robert Bartram, Notary, for the signing of an instrument as to the resignation of Wessyngton, 3s. 4^. ; and to the same for an instrument drawn up by him as to the election of a new Prior, and for the whole legal process of the same, 26s. 8d. On one occasion, when the Bishopric of Durham was vacant, the monks had to go to York for confirmation : " paid for the expenses of Rob. Wardall and Th. Pikryng, who rode to the Lord Archbishop of York, for the confirmation (in 1483) of the election of the prior (John of Auckland)." And sometimes in one of these changes there was even an exchange made of stuff, as on the death of a Prior, in 1446, 76 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. " For two pairs of cloths (three sheets), one pair of blankets, with a quilt or counterpane, delivered to J. Wessyngton, at that time Prior, for the furnishing of the Prior's house, in exchange for a bed with a rug of blue stuff with the figure of a king seated in his throne, worked into the bed, with also one dorsal (or hanging-cloth) of blue cloth hanging in the chamber called the Knyght chambre, 21s. 8d." At a Prior's installation there was also a great dinner, for we read that " There was paid for his expenses to R. Patonson, who rode into Howdenshire, then a marshy district, for the purchase of birds (avium ferarum) towards the Installation, 4s." And when the Prior had happily gone through all this preliminary work of election and installation, he was at once surrounded by a large number of officials or servants. In the most interesting " Rites of Durham " we are told that the Prior " did keppe a moste honourable house, and verey noble intertaynement, being attended upon both with gentlemen and yeomen of the best in the countrie, as the honorable service of his house deserved no less ; the benevolence therof with the releefe and almess of the hole Covent was alwaies oppen and fre, not onely to the poore of the citie of Durham, but to all the poore people of the countrie besides (' Rites,' p. 90).'' The author of the "Rites" adds also that the Prior's hospitality was " soch as that there neaded no Geist Haule, but that they weare desyrouse to abound in all lyberall and fre almesse-geving," which shows that the visitors to the Guest-hall were welcome to the Priory. We may conclude that Pius II, when he was still but Pius Aeneas Sylvius Piccolomini, on his return from his mischief-making in Scotland, was entertained in the Prior's lodgings, as well as in the Guest Hall. There is on record a curious quarrel in the matter of hospitality at the Prior's rooms. The Lord of the Neville's house, Ralph, in 1290,69 made a great difficulty with the Prior, Richard of Hoton. It arose out of the customary offering of a stag or doe in September, on the Feast of St. Cuthbert (the day of his Translation was September 14) ; " Ralph claimed, contrary to the custom of his ancestors, that he and his suite should be feasted on that day by the Prior, that the Prior's servants should be set aside, with Neville's men to replace them, and thus the honour due to the Saint was turned into a burden and a loss." The 69 "Tres Scriptores," p. 74. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 77 Prior, learning this, refused to accept the stag thus tendered ; and when Ralph and his men tried to carry the animal down into the kitchen, there began a quarrel between them and the Prior's men, until presently they passed from words to blows. Ralph's men with hands of violence attacked the monks who were serving at the altar ; and the brethren answered by driving the Neville servants back with the great waxen candles they were bearing. The repulsed laymen left the stag with the monks, and Ralph with his men beat a retreat. Neville had invited many to come over with him, among them he had asked John of Balliol at Barnard Castle to join, but John replied that he had for a long period been a boy in the Durham Schools, and had never heard of such a claim made by the Nevilles, and therefore would not come. Meanwhile the Prior appealed to the Roman Curia, for an enquiry as to the names of those who had hindered the divine offices, and had laid hands of violence on the monks at St. Cuthbert's feast, and the Prior claimed justice. On the other side Ralph brought an action against the Prior before the Bishop's Justiciaries ; one of whom, and the chief man of them, William of Brompton, publicly and in a crowd confessed that he was the very man who had first started this insolence, for, " being but a youth, he loved blowing the horn and coming in with the Lord of Neville, cum domino de Nova Villa," at the offering of the stag, he had said to his comrades, " Come into the Abbey, and let us there sound our horn," and so they did. Yet before Ralph none of his predecessors had exacted this ; they only brought the stag and broke their fast in the Hall ; the Nevilles, however, never stayed to the breakfast unless they were specially invited to it. However, by some mediate friends the parties abandoned their suits ; and after that, so long as Ralph Neville lived, he sent in no stag, though before this it had been yearly offered ; for " Raby with eight adjacent villages is held by the yearly payment of four pounds and one stag." Thus, for a bit, the matter stayed. But after the death of this Ralph Neville, in 1331, his son, also Ralph, seneschal of the King, made homage to William Cowton the Prior, at Bewley, on St. Peter ad Vincula, (Lammas-day, which is otherwise called Gula Augusti, being August 1st) for his manor of Raby, and the appertinances thereof. He then said 7 8 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. that he wished to offer the Prior a stag, as his ancestors had been wont to do, but that while his father had asked to remove the Prior's men and to substitute his own, he for his part asked only that his men should minister for the day with the Prior's servants ; and whereas his father asked to be admitted with his men only to breakfast, he for his part, asked to be admitted himself alone, for the whole of that Saint's day, and also for breakfast on the next morning. To this the Prior replied that none of Neville's ancestors had so been admitted, and that he would never reduce his church to such a servitude, nay, that he would ever refuse to receive any stag on such terms. To this Neville replied that " he would pay all or none " ; and that he would willingly call in the " patria " and lay it before them. But the Prior was afraid of this appeal to the " patria," because Ralph " was so powerful in the district that the jury of neighbours would not dare to speak the truth." The wrangle went on long ; nor was it ended in Graystane's days. It was also at this time that Robert Neville had the fancy to blow his horn in the Convent, when he offered his stag on Holy Rood Day (September 14). When he died, after having been a valiant horn-blower all his days, men sang, as they missed him, " Wei qwa sal thir homes blau, Haly Rod, this day ? Nou is he ded and lies law Was wont to blaw theim ay ! " The last occasion of this presentation of the stag mentioned in the Rolls appears to have been in 1350 ; for in that year we find it recorded among the Prior's gifts that he made the handsome present of twelve pence to a groom in the service of Ralph Neville, who had brought him venison as a present.70 This is the last reference to the Neville stag. The assistant Officiarii of the Prior were the following, their titles being given in one of the Rolls. They were the Sub-prior, the Prior's " Terrarius " (at first agent for his lands) ; the Bursar (who looked after his money), his Seneschal (with care of his household and home expenses), his Chaplain (for the chapel and other friendly duties), his Chancellor (who 7° "Account Rolls," p. 552. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 79 did his law and also his shopping), and his Confessor, to which should be added his " Cantor," and the man in charge of his granaries. And, indeed, this long list does not exhaust the number. To each of the above the Prior paid a fee of 10s. There were also his Marshal, his Carver (at meals), his Cupbearer or butler, his chapel clerk, his valets and grooms. Of these some were high enough to have servants of their own. He also kept three pages, the usher-page, the cook-page, and the palfrey-page, young fellows who did the rough work for his finer servants. In the days of Prior Castel (1494-1519) we find a complete list of them, twenty of them at least, with their personal names.7 1 Lionel Elmeden, the marshal ; Thomas Whitehed, the carver ; Roger Claxton, the sewer (set on table and tasted dishes) ; Philip Gower, cupbearer ; George Conyers, clerk of the chapel ; Robert Whitehed, valet of the wine cellar ; M. Huchynson, valet of the store room ; Richard Todd, valet of the stables ; Lionel Smyth, valet or usher ; Robert Thomson, cook ; William Dalton, groom of the Prior's chamber ; John Brak, groom of the stable ; William Thomson, groom of the store room ; Robert Smyth, groom of the hall ; Robert Syme, caterer of the Seneschal ; James Robynson, groom of the cook ; James Duckett, chaplain of the chantry of the B.V.M. in the chapel of St. Margaret ; Robert Rodd and Agnes Rodd, singers ; and the three pages. The " Rites of Durham " tell us that the " Master of the children," the schoolmaster of the choir, had his meat and drink with the Prior's gentlemen in the Prior's Hall ; and that he was found in all his necessaries by the Prior, " with his house-coste besyde." At the Dissolution time there is another enumeration as to the chief ministrants of the Prior's service ; in this are named the bursar, cellarer, terrar, keeper of the granaries, chamberlain and chaplain. These were independent of the Convent. We are informed that Dominus Robert Bennett, the " bowser " (bursar) had a house of his own ; it was " a little stone house, joyninge to the cole-garth, perteyning to the great ketchinge, a little distance frome the Deanes Haule staires." Then there was Dominus 7 1 This is in the "Account Rolls," p. 704, where it is prefaced by a protest, " Stipendia ex nova. Et in pensione et stipendio ex impositione Magistri T. Castell, nuper Prioris, in aug- mentis et sustentatione famulorum praescriptorum pro supplemento eorum reparalium et aliorum. 80 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Roger Wright the cellarer ; his chequer abutted on the west end of the great kitchen, which was afterwards Dr. Todd's chamber ; Dominus Roger Watson, terrer ; his chequer was as you go into the Guest Hall, on your left hand. Dominus William Foster, keeper of the garners, his chequer was over Mr. Pilkington's hall door; all his house and Mr. Bunny's house, was garners. Dominus Thomas Sparke, the chamberlain, his chequer was where Mr. Swifte has his lodging, near the Abbey gates. Dominus Henry Browne, the master of the common hall, his chequer or office was in the common house. Dominus William Watson, the Prior's chaplain, his chequer was over the stairs as you go up to the Deanes Hall, (his chamber was the next to the Prior's). All these were in office at the suppression of the Abbey in Kinge Henry the 8ths time. "72 With all this splendid suite, and helped specially by his chaplain, who acted as his secretary and treasurer also,73 the Prior, if fairly intelligent and well-meaning, could carry forward the needful business of the House. Sometimes his seneschal had charge of the money, as we see by the Cellerer's roll of 1438, 1439, in which it is stated that John Oil, seneschal of the Prior's Hall, did lay out a considerable sum of money " for the solace and amusement of the Prior and his brethren," and he also received 65s. id. for money laid out for their " playing and taking holiday at Beurepayr for eleven weeks and four days." The holidays at Beaurepair were plainly very merry and popular for both Prior and his friends among the monks. Thus in 1440 the Convent had " 37 lambs bought for the expenses of the Prior at Beaurepair for the Easter holidays." In fact the Prior in the fourteenth and fifteenth century was often away from Durham. He seems to have had a house, or at any rate suitable quarters, at nine or ten different places in the Palatinate and elsewhere. In 1310-1311, a record is kept of his visits for a period of thirteen months ; he was at Pittington for 43 days, where he had a fine house ; at Dalton-le-Dale, ? 2 "Rites of Durham," p. 101. '3 Thus in 1447 there runs an item which shows how the Chaplain acted as the Prior's treasurer, " In denariis liberatis Johanni Eden, Capellano, pro expensis Johannis Wessyngton, protunc Prioris, viz., a festo Pentecostes usque ad diem resignationis ejusdem, 5*. 3d," A. R., p. 631. The chaplain's rooms and chequer seem to have been where the butler's pantry now stands, over the entrance to the cloisters. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 81 a sweet village near the sea, for 5 days ; at Beaurepair, his favourite home, where the ruins of his good house are still to be seen, and where he kept his large stud of horses, for 129 days ; at Ketton, 20 days ; at Bewley,74 19 days ; Merrington, 5 days ; at York, including going and returning, 8 days; at Muggleswick (where there was good hunting), 15 days ; at Wardley, 2 ; and at Westoe, 3. So that in these thirteen months he was absent from Durham for 249 days out of 39575 The Prior also stayed for some time at " the Heugh," that is, at the Sacrist's large house of Sacriston-heugh, where remains of this ancient building still exist. 76 For all these outgoings a large income was necessary, and we find that the Prior's sources of income were very large and prolific. All through these two centuries there were many coal pits winning a large amount of coal ; he had also great sums in tithes. In 1294 there is a catalogue of these sources ; and with it goes an account of fisheries and mills let to divers persons. The total receipt in 1295 was nearly four thousands pounds ; which in the modern value comes to about fifty thousand pounds of income. That is for the Prior's share, apparently, though it may be more probably the income of the whole house ; the Roll is headed, " The Sales of the Tithes of the Priory of Durham, 1294-1295." These, however, might well mean the general income of the Convent from tithes alone. The outgoings of that same year are given as £1244 ; and the Bursar rejoices in being able to say that in that year the receipts were (nett) £1500 more than the payments. The Prior's estates must have been very valuable ; and sometimes his officers claimed even more than their rights ; for we read in 1435 that a carpenter was paid for making a long fence between the lands of the Prior f* It is interesting to notice that in 1446-1447 the Prior had a clock at Bewley, " Et Johanni Stele pro emendatione horologii apud Beaulieu, 3s. Ad." (Account Rolls, p. 631) ; and " unum horologium fixum in pariete cum duobus campanis, una majore et una minore." 75 •' Account Rolls," p. 507. ? 6 In the " Account Rolls," pp. 702, 703, we have the payments, apparently annual charges, for these and other officers amounting to the large sum of 100/j. 3s. 82 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. and those of the bursar for twenty-two weeks, 44S.77 and in the year 1440, he was engaged for the same job during 37 weeks, when the Convent bursar paid 114s. for it. The carpenter we find received 2 shillings a week — or in modern money about twenty-four shillings a week. In a like way we find that in 1337 it was necessary to set up rough crosses to form the " limitation " or boundary between the Bishop and the Prior on the Heworth moor. One of these plain crosses is preserved still in the Library of the Cathedral. 78 Nothing is more striking than the changes in the condition of the office of Prior. There were days when the burden of duties was too heavy to be borne ; and others when the Convent was so well endowed that it cleared off all the debts with ease. The truth is that the estates and other sources of income were always large ; but incompetence at home sometimes, sometimes the ravagings of the Scots, at other times the heavy judgment of famine and sickness, brought the Convent into a low state of debt and difficulty. Thus in Bishop Antony Bek's days (1283-1311) we are told that " The Priory also was deteriorated in many ways, first, by huge borrowings, about legal proceedings contracted and never paid, then by St. Peter's Pence, collected from the Clergy and also apparently from some of the creditors(?) ; secondly, by the thousand marks paid into the hungry Roman Curia, for the restitution of Prior Richard ; thirdly, by three thousand marks paid to the Pope ; and fourthly, by one thousand to the College of Cardinals, for the collation of the office of Prior to William of Tanfield." All this money had to be found in one year ; so that on this occasion we find the Convent contracting debts ; the House was burdened, as the Chronicler tells us, beyond its strength by the shameless usury of certain merchants. Then, unfortunately, there came in a new Prior who, we are told, " would neither acknowledge nor consider " this financial strait ; nay, rather by extravagant expenditure this new Prior aggravated rather than lessened the w " Account Rolls," p. 624. 78 Et Petro Austyn et sociis suis cementariis pro factura crucium super Marchiam inter Episcopum et Priorem in mora de Heworth, 30s. 4d. A. R., p. 536. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 83 burden of debt. For years they did not win their way back to solvency ; the heavy evil of Scottish hostility added to the difficulty, and so did a run of mishaps, a murrain of animals, and a succession of poor harvests.79 In fact these were very bad times for Prior and Convent. Coldingham, over the border in Scotland, and one of the most important of Durham's cells, had a rebellious Prior who refused his obedience to the mother Convent. " The Prior of Coldingham, when the Prior of Durham had journeyed to the Cell, at first swore that he would obey the mother House, and then afterwards secretly refused obedience. William of Tanfield, the Prior of Durham, then deposed him, and named another in his stead ; William took sharp action, for he came himself and received the homage of the Coldinghamshire tenants, he also prosecuted the flying disobedient Prior at the Parliament of Stamford in 1308, at great expense and cost of time and labour. Out of this trouble sprang another ; for the Bishop and the Prior formed two parties within the Convent at Durham ; so that there arose a violent quarrel, so that it never was settled while these two lived." 80 The whole affair is treated at length in the local Chronicles. We find there this remarkable account of Bishop Antony Bek and his dealings with the Priorate. "The Prior (Richard of Hoton), in 1303 complained that, after an agreement had been come to, the Bishop had seized into his own hand the Prior's manors, had also collected the rents and produce of the farms, and had ravaged and destroyed the parks of the Priorate. In addition to all this, Peter Darcy had come over to Durham with a strong force of men, armed with bows and swords. They had besieged the Abbey, trying also to starve it by holding back all provisions. Darcy, the Chronicler complains, did all the mischief he could, and ended by proclaiming that unless in three days' time the Prior's servants left the Priory, he would behead them, or at any rate would imprison them for a long time. They, frightened and helpless, withdrew, leaving only six monks to cook their own food. Then the attacking party burst into the Convent, they broke open the servants' chests, carried off what they would from them ; now, in defiance of r> "Tres Scriptores," p. 89. *> "Tres Scriptores," pp. 89, 90. 84 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. custom and the liberties of the Priory, the Bishop himself intervened, and summoned to him the monks of his own party to elect a new Prior. When they could not agree on a man, he bade them take Henry of Luceby as Prior. He, being backed by Peter Darcy and other scoundrels, forced his way into the Prior's house, broke down the gates of the Cloister, battered in the door of the Refectory, and carried away with him the silver cups and wooden mazers, and many other goods of the Prior and of the Convent. On the following Sunday these rascals brought into the Chapter House their headman, Henry of Luceby, and by threats made certain of the monks regard and treat him as their Prior. Then they shut up the other party, being the true Prior and forty-six monks, in the Cathedral, where they had nothing but their stalls for living and sleeping. So closely were they confined that for three days these monks had nothing to eat, save six loaves and sixteen herrings. They could not get out of the Church for any need, nor had they and the Prior any sleeping-place save their stalls. Finally, Luceby's men dragged the Prior from his stall, and clapped him into prison. There he stayed awhile, and afterwards they removed him, dragging him through the very market of the people to the Castle." It is interesting that we learn by this that in those days the Palace Green was used as a public market for the city. They then locked up the Prior in one of the chambers of the Castle. Finally, however, these bad days changed. Bek had to give in, and was compelled to pay a large sum of money to the real Prior ; Luceby was cast out, and Richard of Hoton continued as Prior to his death in 1308. This odd picture of the dissensions in the Monastery is drawn by a Monk who was eye-witness of it all. Here were a strong-willed Bishop, Antony Bek, and a determined Prior, at variance. The Bishop held that the Convent was divided into two parties, and intervened, apparently not as arbiter, but as partisan of the weaker side. For the existing Prior had at any rate a large majority of the monks on his side. The bogus Prior set going by Darcy seems to have been a mere adventurer. The Bishop, using his rights, and acting under the famous Constitution of Pope Boniface, entitled " Debent," held a visitation on the factions in the Convent. In the THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 85 House itself, as we learn from the Chronicler, " There went on unlawful conferences, " adulterinae confabulationes ", he says — gossip and scandal, no doubt ; there were uncontrolled wanderings and strollings, there was a dissolution of the Benedictine rule, and people transgressed all the more cheerfully, as there was no one to rebuke them and to point out their mis- conduct ; or, he goes on to say, " the higher officers perhaps either did not know who was going wrong, or, if they knew it, dissembled and seemed not to see it ; because they were alarmed lest if they interfered they might themselves be attacked. 81 Then, with good reason, Bek intervened ; he did so, says the Chronicler, " not because these monks were breaking the Benedictine rule, but because the most of them belonged openly to the Prior's party, and were against him." He began by suspending for a period of ten years the leaders of the Prior's men, the Sub Prior, that is, the Almoner, and the Prior of Finchal. But long before the ten years had elapsed Bek himself retired by dying ; and then Archbishop Greenfield stepped in during the vacancy, annulled Bek's sentences, and brought back peace to the troubled monastery. It is plain that here and elsewhere this bad quarrelling had " two sides to it." Tanfield, the Prior, had been careless and extravagant. " He did not understand the state of Conventual affairs ; he did nothing to reduce the debt, indeed he rather, with an open hand, enlarged the burden." The excellent Graystanes tells us that in these days the Convent was over- whelmed by debt, by interest due, by raids from Scotland, and other woes. In fact in the end, Tanfield made such a mess of it all that in 1313 he threw up the struggle and resigned. 82 In the next year he was succeeded by Galfrid of Burdon. Let us hear what Graystanes says of the woes of the House. " He had in his time a war with Scotland, and the constant comings and goings of the King and his magnates helped the ruin ; the bad harvests ran up the price of food : a quarter of wheat fetched 40s., a quarter of- peas or beans, even of barley, rose to 24s. ; the hunger was so fierce that women ate their little ones." 8 3 In 1315 the Scots burst philibustering on Durham ; 81 "Tres Scriptores," p. 90. 82 "Tres Scriptores," p. 95, a.d. 1313. 8 ^ "Tres Scriptores," p. 96. Mulieres parvulos prae famis n.agnitudine comedebant. 86 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. " they plundered, one may say, almost the whole stores of the House " ; the Prior, unconscious of the danger, was then at Bearpark, and though a warning reached his ears, he still refused to move, till he had completely said his morning Mass — by the time this was done Bearpark was surrounded by hungry Scots who chased him on horseback all the way to the very gates of Durham. The Scots seized on such of the Prior's household they could lay hands on ; they took the " long-cart of the Prior with the horses and furnishings ; they looted the whole ' chapel ' of the Prior, his costly vessels with which he had been saying Mass, the other silver articles, the table linen, the bed furniture, and every utensil of the Bearpark house." 8 -* From the fields there they swept off sixty mares out of the Prior's Marshalsea, and a hundred and twenty cows. And, as if this was not enough, in the July of this year, came tremendous rains, the rivers burst bound, swept off crops, flooded houses, drowned families with all their little ones. The heavy series of mishaps was enhanced by the death of Bishop Kellawe in 1316. Like all England, Durham Palatinate was famished, and consequent pestilence ensued. And lastly, as if the anger of heaven was quite insatiable, the King Edward, " moved by the enchantments of Queen Philippa," ordered the Prior and Chapter to elect as their bishop that worst of prelates, Lewis of Beaumont, the Queen's cousin. A miserable story, all of it, told honestly and sincerely by Robert of Graystanes, whose later mishaps never ruffled his Christian temper, nor coloured his facts with prejudice. These evil days ended when, in 1342, John Fossor was elected by the brethren. He brought peace and prosperity to the harassed house ; his Bursar paid off a huge amount of debt ; he erected new edifices at the Priory and in the Convent. We have full details of his wise expenditure, on buildings, on Church ornaments, and the bettering of the convent farms and dwellings. 8 s At his installation Fossor had much furniture to pay for ; or rather, the Convent paid it for him. " For curtains for the bed of the Prior and 64 " Tres Scriptores," p. 96. 8 s "Tres Scriptores," p. 131. and also cxli of the Appendix. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 87 other necessaries bought for him, 75s. r\d. ob. ; also for one quilt for his bed, 12s." His needs often appear in the Rolls ; thus, in 1362, " For a cofyn bought at York to keep and carry the Prior's letters, id. ob." At the same time there are items as to six silver spoons in bad condition to be recast, pitchers and dishes in tin to be bought, some "pairs (sets) of knives " also, and 3J dozen knives, 3 dozen gloves, and other various things, such as saddles, boots, spices, rice, etc. The Prior was also liberal in gifts. 86 There is also a touching item under 1373, 1374, to the effect that a litter was then made and fitted out for carrying my Lord the Prior, then in his ninetieth year, so that he might still move about and see with his own eyes the work being done for him and the Convent. The cost of it for seats, bridles, and other furnishing came to 55s. Fossor died in 1374, and the Bursar's Roll of that date shows how he was buried. 8 7 He left behind him many evidences of a noble capacity, especially in the great kitchen he built for the use of the community. At the end he left a poor unstocked wine cellar. This, however, was soon remedied by the Convent, for in 1375, 1376, we find that 57s. was paid for " Rynis wyne " ; and a cask was bought of red wine for 12/2. ; and for the Prior specially, " in wine bought at Newcastle for my Lord Prior, at home and abroad, for there was a lack of wine in his cellar, 44s. 6d." Also a pipe of " Rinischewyne " was bought from Adam Bulkham, against Christmas, for yli. 16s. ; finally, " for five gallons of white wine bought by the Bursar's servant for my Lord the Prior at his entertainments (spatiante) at Beaurepaire after Christmas, 5s. iod." 88 It was in Fossor 's days that wild boars were still roving at their will in the Durham woods ; for in 1368, 1369, there is this entry : " For a man driving away one boar from Billingham, and for another bringing in venison, 2s." 8 9 86 His bounties were large in each successive Roll. 87 "Account Rolls," p. 581. "In uno coreo in quo involvebatur corpus Domini Johannis Fossour Prioris, et in solutione facta cuidam artifici pro labore suo circa eandem involutionem, 5s." Raine tells that " he was buried at the north end of the middle transept, not in a coffin, but in the hide of an ox." This was seen in 1729, and is reported to have then appeared to be " tolerably fresh." 88 "Account Rolls," p. 582. * " Account Rolls,; p. 574. 88 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. There are also many entries which bear on the way in which the Prior enjoyed his holidays; he had plenty of music, some acting, some dancing; he had also from time to time players who presented doubtless some medieval half-religious and merry miracle plays ; possibly also some of the Latin worldly comedies. In 1362 he entertained a certain " ystrio," or actor, who was a Frenchman and blind, who had his brother, a lad, with him, for this he paid 2s. When the King returned from Newcastle he gave the King's players the handsome fee of 40s. Musicians also arrived, minstrels who played on instruments, recited ballads and other poems, and sometimes even condescended to play tricks after the manner of jugglers. Thus there is an entry, " For the Minstrel of my Lord the Duke, with a youth dancing in my Lord Prior's room, 6s. 8^." ; and in 1395, for a player on the rote (a kind of fiddle) being a Scot,9° also 6s. 8d. ; again, " for a man who played on a loyt (lute) and his wife who sang with him at Beaurepayr, 2s." ; for a Welsh harper, belonging to William of Dalton, 3s. 4^. In 1360 the accounts tell us of no less than 26 minstrels ; one group of them being a band of twelve ; and in 1362, " a Player and Jester Jawdewyne at Christmas, 3s. ^d.9 1 ; and at this time also there was " William the Kake-harper, 2s." So that there was a continual stream of these entertainers, who now had taken the place of the more ancient reciters of the great poems. Such men went to and fro playing on their instruments and selling cakes and wafers. The " Account Rolls " of the time of Prior Fossor are full of quaint entries, bearing both on these amusements and the food-luxuries of that great man relaxing himself in his old age. He had also many out-of-door entertainments. We hear that he had ferrets, " For two ferrets, bought for taking rabbits, ^s. <\d." and dogs, also, for hare-coursing. In his increasing infirmities Prior Fossor had a carriage with four horses to draw it. These had gay harness and trappings, for the Prior would still show himself as a mighty lord. The horses had " four headstalls, with a head-stall of red leather, bought for the Prior's carriage, 4s. 9 2 He also had a " long cart," for which and other horse- 90 "Account Rolls," p. 599, uni Rotour de Scocia, 6s. Bd. 91 This man must have played the part of what was called in those days a Jawdewyne, that is, a sort of wrangler, or professional merry quarreller. 92 In quattuor capistris cum head-stall de rubro coreo emptis pro equis carectae Prioris, 4s. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 89 carriages he bought a huge lot of harness in 1343.9 2 * The entry is worth recording here : " Marescalcia. For buying of saddles for the long-cart, and for the sumpter horses of the Prior, 6s. id. ; For 64 head stalls, 45 pairs of traces ('trahiciorum') and 11 cart-ropes, with six collars, one pair of Bates (? pack saddles), 4 rear-cords, 3 reins, 3 pair of pastern fetters, three shackles and one crupper for the long-cart, 26s. gd. ; for flock bought to stuff saddles, i6d. ; and for 14 stone-weights of dripping from the kitchen to grease the wheels, 8s. 2d." Perhaps the strangest of the entries at this time (1342, p. 542) is the payment of 10s. " Pro tribus aliis ministris iniquitatis." This comes with other payments on behalf of the King's company at the time. Was it an unexpected piece of natural indignation in the monastic record ? It meant no doubt, a payment for some of the suite whose business was far from seemly. Finally, the Prior had other out-of-door relaxations ; first, there was his Fool, poor Thomas, whose clothing makes an item in the Roll of 1350 : " To Adam Blount, for the dressing of Thomas the fool, four " houces " or saddle cloths, and four sarplers, or coarse canvas sacks, which were sewn together for 22d."93 The poor creature did not live long ; he is recorded as dying in 1356.94 The Prior also had an ape, bought for him in 1360 in York for 31s. ; he also received, as a present, a Goshawk ; these with his dogs and ferrets gave him fine chances for out-of-doors amusement. He had also certain " Heronceaus," Hern-shaws, or young Herons, brought to him from Acley. In some Houses, that is of the Cistercian order, the Statutes forbid the keeping of " Grues, ursi, pavones, et caetera animalia ad levitatem moventia," but the Benedictines were not so strict : thus we have a curious example of this in the time of Bishop Robert de Insula, who, " as an occasional relief," kept a pair of monkeys, and used after dinner to tempt them to fight over almonds and nuts, " with great screeching," to the delight of his noble visitors. The Prior had also much interest in his horse-rearing at Bearpark ; he had many of them, with special grooms in charge of them. !>'* "Account Rolls," p. 543. »3 "A. R.," p. 552. * "A. R.," p. 558. 90 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Thus in 1349, 1350, " To R. Coteour, for breaking in three colts for the Prior, 10s. ; and to Roger Couhird, for selling horses from Beaupark at the Durham Market and elsewhere, 3s. ^d." (p. 550). Thus we learn many things as to a Prior's life and work. We learn also what befell him, if he chose to withdraw from active service. When Ebchester resigned in 1456 many allowances were granted to him ; he should have chambers in the House, a chaplain, an esquire, a clerk, a valet, a horse-boy, with other needful support and clothing. One flagon of new beer he might have, linen and woollen clothes, and a yearly pension of £40, a large sum for a man with small necessities and few calls. If he wished for a change, he might have the chief chamber at Finchale, with access to the chapel there, and another room of the name of " Dowglastower," with a chamber and cellars under it ; with four servants also, as mentioned above, candles, fuel, and other things for his room, with all his reasonable requests. This was all granted him in a deed of the 13th Oct., 1456.95 The changes at Durham, due to the final break up of the monastic body in 1541, (the whole convent was surrendered into the hands of the Crown on the last day of 1540, and the subsequent changes went on throughout 1541), led to much destruction of ancient work ; and Dean Whittingham, and his determined wife continued this ill-omened task. They broke up or defaced all such stones as had " any pictures of brass or other imagerie worke or challices wrought upon them." Unfortunately, the historic banner of St. Cuthbert, which in Pudsey's days had helped to put out the great fire in the Castle ; and had witnessed most of the battles between the Scots and the English, was removed from the shrine of the Saint, and carried into the Deanery. The book of the " Rites of Durham " describes it minutely, though it says little of the antiquity of it. The writer thinks that it sprang from a vision which Prior Fossor saw the night before the battle since called the battle of Neville's Cross (17 October, 1346). The writer goes on, " Shortelie after the said Prior caused a goodly and sumptuous baner to be maid, and with pippes of silver to be put on a staff e . . . and to be keapt in a chyste in the ferretorie . . which banner was shewed and 95 " Tres Scriptores," Appendix, cccxxxvij — cccxxxviij. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 91 caried in the said abbey on festivall and principall daies ; on the highte of the overmoste pipe was a faire pretie crosse of silver and a wand of silver having a fyne wroughte knopp of silver at either end .... and at either end of the said wande there was a fyne silver bell . . . the baner cloth was a yerd brode . . . and five quarters deape, and the nether part of it was indented in five partes and frenged and maid fast with all about with read silke and gold. And also the said baner cloth was maid of read velvett of both sydes most sumptuously imbrodered and wrought with flowres of grene silke and gold, and in the mydes of the said baner cloth was the sayde holie relique and corporax cloth inclosed and placed ther in, which corporax cloth was covered over with white velvett half a yerd square every way, having a red crosse of read velvett on both sydes over the same holie relique most artificiallie and cunyngly compiled and framed, being fynely fringed about the edge and scirtes with frenge of read silke and gold and three litle fyne silver belles . . . like unto sackring belles, and so sumptuouslie finished and absolutelye perfitted, was dedicated to holie St. Cuthbert . . . which banercloth after the dissolution of the Abbey fell into the possession of one Deane Whittingham, whose wife called Katherin, being a freanche woman, did most injuriously burne and consume the same in hir fire in the notable contempt and disgrace of all auncyent and goodly reliques."9 6 After the Reformation, when Deans followed Priors, we have but little to add. The twelve Canons kept residence by the practical rule that they should keep their close residence of three weeks by giving daily dinners to all they could gather. If any strangers were seen in Cathedral, the verger was sent to them with a message that the Canon would be glad to have their company that evening at dinner, and the Dean, when in residence, followed the same course. Of these later hospitalities at the Deanery we have a pleasant description found in the memoir of a northern journey made in 1634 by three friends, officers making holiday.97 They rode northward to see the — — p — ' " * " Rites of Durham," Surtees Society, No. 107, pp. 23-27. 97 " A Relation of a Short Survey of 26 Counties, observed in a seven-weeks' Journey, begun on August 11, 1634, by a Captain, a Lieutenant, and an Ancient, all three of the Military Company in Norwich ; " edited by L. G. Wickham Legge, New Coll., Oxford. 92 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. land, travelling up by the Great Northern Road, then from Newcastle-on- Tyne to Carlisle, and homewards as far south as Somerset, whence they crossed England, back to Norwich. Their description of the scenery is not at all complimentary, " Skirting the hideous hanging hills and great pooles .... those high mountanous tumbling rocky hills, a man would think he were in another world," and along such roads ! " through such wayes as we hope wee never shall againe, being no other but climing and stoney, nothing but Bogs and Myres, or the tops of those high Hills, so as we were enforced to keepe these narrow, loose, stony, base wayes, though never so troublesome and dangerous ... for the space of 8 miles travelling, a slow marching pace, wee pass'd over nothing but a most confus'd mixture of Rocks and Boggs." No wonder the traveller cries with a sigh of relief, " We veyle our Bonnets to all those wild Northern parts." So they took their travels ; and in the second week of them, still labouring northwards they came nigh unto Durham, though still they were " in great danger amongst those deep Hell Coal-pitts ; for which way soever wee tooke, we were still led to those Tartarean Cells, which our Horses discovered sooner then wee could, and by their snuffing made us take heed of them ; surely some of the Inf email Spiritts have their residence in them." At Durham they at once, after putting up their steeds at the Lion, found their way to the Cathedral, " plac'd on the top and hart of the citty, which stands all on a Rooke on a Hill, in a Dale, for enter the same which way you will you must descend, and that very steepily, neare upon a mile togeather, yet the Minstre, the Bishop's Castle, and the hart of the citty stands on a Hill. She is inviron'd and nigh girt round by the River Were, which was made to build the Castle, Minster, and other fayre structures that were erected about 600 yeeres since, and she hath some streets that run out long wayes, which makes her like a Crab."9 8 Here they " were call'd To Prayers, where wee were rapt with the sweet sound and richnesse of a fayre organ, which cost loooli, and the orderly devout and melodious Harmony of the Quiristers ; There were wee discovered by that worthy grave generous Deane (Dr. Hunt), and no sooner was prayers done but wee were summon'd by one of his gentile ambassadors 98 Survey, p. 25. < < 1 tr Q_ —) Q O Q >' _l It cr LU a 7 2 < p ^^£^3M2^EH ^N\\\V\ g -^^v^^?^^ s THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 93 to take part of a Resident Dinner with him, which had wee not freely and cheerfully accepted off, wee had lost our Selves and that noble entertainment, such as was fit for neat palated courtiers and not for such dusty travelling soldiers as wee were. " The first salute and welcome from the worthy Gentleman was exprest with a double reflect upon us ; first, as we were strangers, but more especially as we were his countrymen ; it pleas'd him to leave all his guests, doctors, prebends, and citizens of both sexes and of both kinds, spiritual and layitie, and to condiscend to walke with us in his garden about halfe an houre, till his Gentleman-usher, the harbinger of dinner, came and told him his meat was on the table ; we wish'd the cooke had not beene so hasty, or that he had layen longer in bed ; for his grave discourse was so mild, sweet, and eloquent, as would make a man goe in a trance as never to be weary of hearing him. The same courteous usage wee had in his garden, the same wee had at his board, which neither wanted good dishes nor company, for there were of both choice and plenty." " After half an houres sitting there came a young scholar, and read a chapter, during which time all discourse ceas'd : no sooner was itt ended but the grave master of the house begins a cup of wine to all his guests, with a hearty welcome, which his gentile servitors were carefull to see every man pledge, to wash downe the fat venison, sweet salmon, and other great cheere this large and sumptuous table was furnished with." "Thus we spent an houre to refresh our travelling corps, with as good mate and drinke, and from as good as free and as generous a gentleman as England affoords. Soone after dinner we bethought our selves of our journey and so agreed to take our leaves of him ; but his reply to our request was to stay still with him a weeke longer, our cheare and welcome should be the same we had found ; we mildly press'd for his licence to depart, telling him how we had resolv'd and order'd our journey." More than a century after this charming description of a mid-day dinner at the Deanery, we find in the " Newcastle Courant " of the 6th October, 1751, a note which gives us another result of the Dean's hospitality. It may be 94 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. I that Dean Spencer Cowper gave his guests less talk and more food than Dean Hunt had dispensed. For on the 29th September, 1751, " Mr. Thomas Norris, who kept the Red Lion inn, in Durham, died suddenly of an epoplectick (sic) fit after dining with the Dean at his residence." Mr. Norris had formerly been " gentleman to the Duke of Cleveland ; " and so perished at last through the proverbial hospitality of the Deanery. One more trivial reminiscence of these later days may be added, though it refers more to the Deanery garden than to the house ; an incident that has fixed itself permanently on the Cathedral building ; a kind of personal incongruity which lends itself to an ancient building ; we feel that new work may have in it a touch of humour, sometimes. 55 "North Country Diaries," Surtees Soc, 189. The " Red Lion " is now a part of Bishop Hatfield Han. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 95 Dean Waddington (who died in 1869), a fine looking man with a haughty somewhat pompous way of walking, was one day walking, with head erect, and a fine swagger in his legs, when he became aware that his movements were being copied and exaggerated by a little lad of five years old, one of the Douglas boys ; who was marching after him in merry mimicry. The Dean suddenly turned round, and caught the urchin ; and with a serious voice declared he would teach the youngster to mock him — he would hang him up on the Church front. And at once he sent the child, perhaps somewhat frightened by the threat, to the mason's yard, in which the sculptor was at that time carving the heads which ornament the cornices of the Cathedral walls ; and he ordered the craftsman to take the boy's head, just as it was, and so to make him one of these corbel-like faces. And there the youngster stands, a small boy's face with an old-fashioned straw hat on his head, as he may be seen from the northern part of the Dean's Garden. In describing the fortunes of these fine rooms, as they were in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, one is apt to be ashamed of the treatment given to them, because they came to be wanted for the convenience of the modern families of Deans. We ask, why should they not be re-fashioned — it could be done — into their original state ? There stands the ancient loving work, still perfectly sound and good, with five ancient oak roofs, sheltering handsome chambers. Two of these roofs are still in sight, the one in the King James' room, the other in the Dean's Library, the ancient " Camera Prioris minor " ; the other roofs just show themselves in part, tantalising their lovers. The Solarium's magnificent roof can still be seen in the lobby to the east of the drawing-room ; the rest is under the alcove ; the roof of the Prior's Refectory (or as it was in still earlier times, the Monk's Dormitory) has about one-third of it visible in the main hall ; and the third roof, that of the Prior's retainers chamber, on the north side of the Chapel, was indeed a less handsome structure : it is hidden by the ceilings of the bedrooms, except for the corbels and springs of the main joists on either side. 96 THE DEANERY, DURHAM. To clear away all the modern walls and ceilings, and so to make restoration possible, would be not only costly, but would be fatal to the house as the dwelling-place of the Dean with his family. It could only be done were the Church to dislodge the Dean, and take the house into her own hands. We are sometimes informed that Deans are useless — a weak relic of the past — that we represent a past phase of Anglican Church life ; a state of things seen in no other part of Christendom — that we are quite an expensive ornament, of no practical use ; — that a commission of Canons, or the bustling energy of some active young man, would do more work for half the pay ; — and that the fine Deaneries might then fall into the hands of the Diocese. This, say our reformers, would give the Diocese a chance of having a fine Club-house, a centre of activities at the heart of all things ; every Deanery might act as, and perhaps better than, the handsome Wolsey House at Winchester, where is a library for the Clergy, with rooms and a garden for the clergy who are ready to undertake work in any trouble or difficulty throughout the Diocese. Here would be a library, and rooms for meetings, and a centre for all episcopal gatherings. This sounds well ; and may yet come. For me the fortunate thing is that it has not yet arrived. It might have already reduced this fine old edifice to be as dull as a Diocesan Calendar ; the mirror of a monotonous equality of Church life. One may safely claim that our Deans are not dull people ; they happily show no sign of being ground down into a modern smooth evenness. There are those among us who are doing fine work in great cities ; they have made the office a real power ; and a lively expression of the better part of Church work in various ways. For Deans are still free to think and act : they sometimes know a good deal more than their neighbours ; they are not scared away from modern thought by the envious inspection of timid or narrow Churchmen. It is but a corner of this busy world, in which we shelter ourselves ; independence of opinion, and leisure for study are still our blessing : our Modernists are not yet placed on the Index ; some of the Deans are even suspected of being Radicals ! THE DEANERY, DURHAM. 97 Meanwhile, let us be content to have a sort of open house for those around us ; we have the delightful task of protecting the ancient buildings in which we live ; neglect is bad, but far more terrible is virtuous improvement. Our lives and duties may be the calm pursuit of negative virtues ; the havoc done by amiable and well-meaning enthusiasts will be no longer our snare : we are old folk who know how " to leave well alone," and in truth one Dean, at any rate, knows how to be thankful for a happy home unspoilt. Springs of Ceiling of the " Camera Inferior.' APPENDIX. Reman : Arreragia. Recepta . denariorum About the best time of Prior Wessington (1416-1446) we find a continual activity in construction, and also in repairs of the Prior's quarters. He was an active Prior, and in his thirty years of office probably introduced much of the woodwork that still beautifies the Deanery. The following Roll, dated 1432, 1433, shows what was the income from winning coal in the two neighbouring districts of the Raintons and Ferry Hill. An annual income of £21 16s. 8|d. from these two places enabled the Prior to do much for his house, with a good sum left when all had been paid for the year. This Roll had not been found when Canon Fowler's "Account Rolls" were copied; so that, as it throws light on the Deanery, I have ventured to place it here. It will be seen that the names of the workmen are intimately connected with their handy work. — A. Wright was a Carpenter, and we find him making planks out of the timber (meremium) ; William Sawer was a Sawyer of boards for floors, &c, and W. Glasyer was the glasier working at the glass in the windows of the Prior's House ; lastly, W. Plummer was the worker in lead, who made for the house a certain gargoyle, a throat of lead through which the roof spewed out the falling rain. Compotus Domini Thomae Nesbit Receptoris denariorum pro mineris carbo[nae] villarum de Rayntone et de Fery, de -festo Inventionis Sanctae Crucis a.d. 1432... usque idem festum proxime sequens anno revoluto. Et remanet ultimi compotis anni proxime praecedentis nihil, ut patet in pede ejusdem. Summa — Nulla. Set remanet de vili vjs. ni]d. de arreragiis ultimi compoti anni proxime praecedentis, ut patet in pede ejusdem in titulo respecto. Summa — vili vjs. ii])d. Et de xxvij/z vjs. \\d. receptis de minera carbonum vendita apud Rayntone hoc anno. Et de x]li xs. xd. ob. receptis pro carbonibus venditis apud mineram de Fery hoc anno. Summa — xxxviijfo'. xvijs. ob. Varii Recept. Varia Recepta. Surplus- agium. Expensae Domini Prioris. THE DEANERY, DURHAM. De variis receptis hoc anno Nihil, quid nulli accidebant. 99 Summa — Nulla. praeter ) f xxxviij/t xiijs. ob. (sic). bumma totalis Receptus-[ Arreragium ; K ' cum arreragio — xlvli iijs. iiij^. ob. E quibus computat in surplusagiis ultimi compoti, ut patet in pede ejusdem compoti — xxili. xvjs. viijd. Summa — xxili xvjs. viijrf. Et in stipendio Johannis Knayth latami operantis super factura camerae Domini Prioris per tempus compoti, ut patet per papirum computantis — vijli iijs. ni]d. Et in stipendio Johannis Pikryng, mason, ibidem operantis per xl septimanas infra tempus computi, ut patet per dictum papirum — cviijs. ii]d. Et in stipendio Johannis Kay, laborer, operantis ibidem per xvi septimanas infra tempus computi — xxvijs. x]d. Et in stipendio Johannis Fayrharii, qwerrioris 10 -* et laborer, operantis ibidem per tempus compoti — lxxixs. Et in stipendio Thomae Watson laborer, ibidem operantis per xij septi- manas infra tempus computi — xvijs. xd. Et in stipendio Thomae Curwen operantis infra cameram Domini Prioris per vj septimanas infra tempus compoti — xs. i]d. Et in stipendio Roberti Wryght et aliorum operantium super dolatione meremii pro parva camera Domini Prioris— xs. i)d. Et in stipendio Willelmi Sawer pro serratione unius rode et dimidii bordarum et meremii pro dicta camera ad iijs. vid., minus per ij^. in toto — vs. ]d. Et in stipendio Willelmi Glasyer operantis super refectione et emendatione diversarum fenestrarum vitrearum infra cameras Domini Prioris infra tempus computi — iijs. viijd. 104 Qwerrior, i.e., a quarry-man. ioo THE DEANERY, DURHAM. Et solutum Johanni Henrysone pro cariagio xxxiiij plaustratarum petrarum a quarrera usque dictam cameram ad i]d. ob. — vijs. \d. Et solutum Roberto Jakson pro cariagio vj plaustratarum meremii a Beuerpark usque dictam cameram Domini Prioris ad viij^ — iiijs. Et solutum Willelmo Plummer operanti super factura unius gargolae ac super emendatione tecturae plumbiae super cameras Domini Prioris infra tempus compoti — xijs. \\d. Et solutum pro panno lineo empto pro factura de ij matres ad usum Domini Prioris, una cum factura earundem — xxiijs. m\d. Et solutum Rectori de Houghtone pro decima carbonum de Rayntone hoc anno — liijs. iiiji. Et solutum Elemosinario pro Wayleiff hoc anno — vis. v\\]d. Et solutum Thomae Aleynsone pro calce ex eo empto infra tempus compoti — xiiijs. Et solutum Johanni Aleynsone pro calce ex eo empto infra tempus compoti — xs. x\d. Et solutum pro j sera empta per Ricardum Wright— xd. Et solutum pro una equa empta de Roberto Havelok — xvjs. Et solutum Willelmo Eure militi pro carbonibus ex conventione — xls. Et solutum pro supervisione minerarum ex praecepto Domini Prioris hoc anno — xxvjs. viijrf. Et solutum pro pergamine, scriptura, et araiatione hujus compoti ac compoti anni proxime praecedentis ibidem omissis ad xvj^. — ijs. viij^. Summa — xxxili iijs. id. THOS. CALDCLEUGH & SON, PRINTERS, DURHAM. IK"