u THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2007 witii funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation littp://www.arcliive.org/details/devonsliirecornwaOObritricli AJis '^ or ^xtuet.^oivn^. $xti)ltc iSxiilbtiujir .S>met0^!©oi:h5, tfl;)xirrbe6.?lntxi]mttc9, 3tbirpj6 :^.) $trtiirf^(|itf ^cmmi' ^htice, 3caU of the Mohiixt^,S^t.S:c w '- '7 rii'HKR, SON fc C 1.0NJJ0K, 188.S. V 't-c/^/r^^^t/ -\J fl/y/L^V' ILLUSTRATIONS OF DEVONSHIRE. There is not, perliaps, a single county in the British Islands more replete with pictu- resque and romantic features, antiquarian remains, geological riches, and geographical and maritime relations, than Devonshire. On the west it is bounded, and almost separated from Cornwall, by the river Tamar, thebanks of which are enriched with finely-wooded and rocky scenei-y ; — on the north and south it is skirted by those parts of the ocean called the Bristol and English Channels ; — and on the east it is flanked by Somersetshire and Dorsetshire. The area thus enclosed extends about seventy-one miles from north to south, and seventy-two from east to west; its circumference is nearly 300 miles. The superficial contents are calculated at about 1,633,280 acres. It is divided into thirty-three hundreds, including 394 parishes, and forty market towns. Its houses, as oflScially reported in 1821, amounted to 74,568, and were inhabited by 439,040 persons ; of whom 230,811 were females, and 208,229 males. The general features of Devonshire are extremely diversified. The central part of the western district, extending from the vale of Exeter to the banks of the Tamar, chiefly consists of a barren and uncultivated tract of land, called Dartmoor. This includes an extensive waste, termed Dartmoor Forest, which, though occupying a superficies of between 200,000 and 300,000 acres, aifords only a scanty pasturage to sheep and cattle. The external aspect of this district is singularly wild and dreary, exhibiting an almost endless continuation of lofty hills, craggy rocks, and narrow valleys strewed with masses of scattered granite, which seem to have been separated by some convulsion of nature, from the surrounding heights, or Torrs. The north-eastern division of this county, or that part commonly called the Vale of Exeter, contains an area of about two hundred square miles, and is bounded on the north by a range of undulating hills ; on the east, by the mountainous ridge of Blackdown ; on the north-east by Sidmouth Hill, Eastdown, and Woodbury ; and on the west, princi- pally by the eminences of Haldon. Although this district differs essentially from that of Dartmoor, it exhibits eminences of considerable height, between Exeter and Tiverton. Its central and southern portions chiefly partake of the vale character. The division called the South Hams, which from its fertility is frequently denominated the Garden of Devonshire, is bounded on the north by Dartmoor and the heights of Chud- leigh ; on the west by the river Plym and Plymouth Sound ; by Torbay on the east ; and A- 6 DEVONSHIRE. by the English Channel on the south. It comprises an area of about two hundred and fifty square miles, including the valleys of the Dart, the Teign, the Avon, and the Erme, and abounds in scenery of the most picturesque and romantic character. This district is highly cultivated. West Devonshire is that large tract of land comprised between the Dartmoor moun- tains, the rivers Tamar and Plym, and Plymouth Sound. The surface is extremely diversified, not only by the number, narrowness, and depth of the larger valleys, (whose sides generally rise with a steep ascent from the banks of their dividing streams,) but likewise by the hills, or down-like swells, which extend between the valleys, being rent and broken in a very peculiar manner. In this district, as well as in the Vale of Exeter and the South Hams, great quantities of cider are made, both for domestic consumption and for exportation. Among the number and variety of romantic views with which Devonshire abounds, may be particularly noticed those from Haldon, looking over the vale of the Exe ; from Black- down, over the vale of the Culme; from Pinhoe and other eminences, overlooking Exeter; from the heights of Dartmoor, in the direction of Plymouth, and also (from the High Torr rock,) over the valley of the Teign to Teignmouth. Beautiful prospects are also obtained from Brent-Torr Church-yard, from the heights above Torquay, from Mamhead, from Morwell Rock, Tawstock Park, and Portlemouth Church. The views about Powderham, Exmouth, Teignmouth, Sidmouth, &c. are also remarkably fine ; as are those also on the banks of the Tamar, the Tavy, the Taw, the Plym, the Erme, the Teign, the Avon, the Creedy, the More, and many other small rivers and streams. The northern coast is particularly bold, rocky, and romantic ; and the Valley of Stones, Linton, Ilfracombe, &c. are singularly interesting and picturesque. Forests, Rivers, Canals, &c. — ^The only Forest in Devonshire is that of Dartmoor, already mentioned ; but the Deer-Parks are both numerous and extensive. . The principal are those of Bicton, Castlehill, Clovelly, Creedy, Eggesford, Fulford, Great Fulford, Heanton, Killerton, Mount-Edgecumbe, Newnham, Ogwell, Poltimore, Shute, Stevenstone, Werrington, Whyddon, and Youlston. The red, or wild deer, are still occasionally seen in southern parts of Dartmoor Forest. The navigable Rivers are, the Exe, the Teign, the Dart, the Yealme, the Avon, the Plym, the Tamar, the Torridge, and the Taw : their tributary streams are too numerous to be here particularized. The Stover, or Teigngrace Canal, from Bovey Tracey to Newton Abbot, was completed in 1794, at the sole expense of James Templer, Esq. ; the construction of the Grand Western Canal was authorized by Act of Parliament in 1796 j the Canal from Morwell-ham Quay to Tavistock, was opened in June, 1814 ; and the Act of Parliament for cutting that from Bude to Thornbury, &c. was obtained in 1819. A railway has been constructed, for the purpose of conveying the pon- derous blocks of granite from the Heytor quarries to the Teigngrace canal. The Ply- mouth and Dartmoor railway extends from the quarries near Dartmoor prison, to Sutton Pool, in the port of Plymouth, by a circuitous route of twenty-four miles. DEVONSHIRE. jr Produce. — Great quantities of grain are raised in the vicinities of Bideford, Hart- land, and Ilfracombe; from which towns large cargoes are annually exported. Devonshire is also remarkable for the quality and quantity of its cider ; of which beverage, about 21,000 hogsheads were exported from Exmouth and Dartmouth, in 1828. Cattle are bred in this county to a considerable extent ; they are chiefly sent in droves to the graziers in Somersetshire, Essex, &c. to be fattened for the London market. Wool also forms one of the principal articles of exportation. The mines of copper, lead, and tin, which abound in various parts of the county, may be classed among the most valuable of its natural productions. Much granite is wrought in the quarries of Heytor ; and the Devonshire marbles, which are richly diversified, and bear a high polish, are in great estimation. Titles and Seats. — The following noblemen derive their titles from, or have seats in, Devonshire ; viz. The Duke of Bedford, (Marquess of Tavistock, &c.) has a spacious mansion at Endsleigh, in the parish of Milton Abbot ; the Duke of Northumberland has a seat at TVerrington ; the Earl of Mount-Edgcumbe, at Mount- Edgcumbe ; the Earl Fortescue, at Castle-Hill near South-MOulton ; the Earl of Morley, at Saltram, in the parish of Plympton St. Mary; Viscount Courtenay, at P owder ham- Castle ; Viscount Exmouth at Teign-mouth and Canon- Teign ; Lord Clinton and Say, at Huish; Lord Clifford, at Ugbrook ; Lord King, at Yarty; and Lord Rolle, at Stevenstone, and at Bicton. The following Baronets, also, have seats and estates in the county : Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, at Kellerton; Sir Lawrence Palk, at Haldon House; Sir Henry Carew, at Hac- combe; Sir William Elford, at Bickham; Sir J. L. Rogers, at Blatchford; Sir T. T. F. E., Drake, at Nutwell Court and at Buckland- Abbey ; Sir James Hamlyn Williams, at Clovelly- Court; Sir Humphry Davie, at Creedy; Sir John Kennaway, at Escot- Cottage ; Sir F. F. Baker, at Ijoventor; Sir F. Buller, at Lupton- House; Sir M. Lopez, at Alaristow ; Sir S. H. Northcote, at Pynes ; Sir W. T. Pole, at Shute- House ; Sir B. Wrey, at Tawstock ; and Sir A. Chichester, at Youlsfon. .,-.• Besides the Cathedral and 'the ruins of Rougemont Castle in Exeter, the following ancient buildings still remain in different parts of the county. Parts of the Abbeys of Buckland, Ford, Hartland, Tavistock, and Torr; the Priory of Canonsleigh, and Polsloe Nunnery, with numerous churches, and other remains of ecclesiastical architecture. The Castles are those of Afton, Berry-Ponieroy, Compton, Gidleighj Dartmouth, Hemlock, Lydford, King's Weare, Oakhampton, Totnes, Plympton, and Tiverton. Among the ancient Mansions may be enumerated Bradfield Hall, Buckland Abbey-house, Boringdon House, Bradley, near Newton Bushell, Collacombe, Dartington Hall, Exeter Palace, Ford House, Great Fulford, and Morwell House : the last, now occupied by a farmer, is said to have been a country seat of the abbots of Tavistock. There are also several Druidical or Celtic remains on Dartmoor, and in other parts of the county. Some account of the former, with an Engraving, M'ill be found in Vol. xxii . of the Archeeologia. 8 DEVONSHIRE VIGNETTE— LYDFORD CASCADE. In a county like Devonshire, the traveller naturally expects to meet with a variety of fine cascades ; for the high and long ridge of Dartmoor (extending east and west) being intersected by many ravines and mountain streams, is especially calculated to produce such kind of scenery. Among its most celebrated waterfalls, that of Lydford is justly noted for its finely-wooded and rocky accompaniments, for the romantic bridge across the chasm above it, for a second fall in the vicinity, and for the ruined castle, or prison- tower, with which it is associated. Lydford Cascade, which is represented in our Vignette, is formed by a small stream that descends through some rocky chasms, and is crossed by a bridge of one arch, over which the old road from the north of Devon to Plymouth passes. This arch bears some analogy to the Devil's Bridge, in Wales, and certain marvellous stories are connected with its history. It extends across a narrow ravine, which sinks nearly eighty feet from the level of the road, and at the bottom of which the small river Lyd is heard rattling through its contracted course. The romantic character and singularity of this scene are not perceived in merely passing along the bridge; to comprehend and appre- ciate its impressive effects, the spectator must view it in detail from the different pro- jecting crags which impend over the river. At a little distance below the arch, " the fissure gradually spreads its rocky jaws; the bottom opens; and, instead of tlie dark precipices which have hitherto overhung and obscured the struggling river, it now emerges into day, and rolls its murmuring current through a winding valley, confined within magnificent banks, darkened with woods, which swell into bold promontories, or fall back into sweeping recesses, till they are lost to the eye in distance. Thickly shaded by trees which shoot out from the rent, the scene at Lydford Bridge is not so terrific as it would have been, had a little more light been let in upon the abyss, just sufiicient to produce a " darkness visible." As it is, however, the chasm cannot be regarded without shuddering, nor will the stoutest heart meditate uuappalled upon the dreadful anecdotes connected with the spot."* This Fall is some distance below the Bridge, where the stream above-mentioned rushes over a slaty precipice about 150 feet in height. Midway it encounters a small ledge of rock, and this obstacle enhances the interest of the scene, which, when the torrent is increased by rains, is singularly grand. The spot is one of the most complete seclusion : it is situated at the junction of four thickly wooded glens, so that nothing meets the eye but an " insuperable height of loftiest shade," while all the accompaniments are calcu- lated to inspire feelings of deep and chastened pleasure. •Wamer'B Walks through the Western Counties. See also, Gilpin's " Observations on the Western Counties." -^ EXETSB., FHIDM BXKntCIK. HttlU . ©UttDHAJLI. . IFOKK-STKIBIST. SXETIBIR . DEVONSHIRE. EXETER, FROM EXWICK HILL. ExETKR, the seat of the bishopric, and capital of Devon, is a city of acknowledged antiquity, although the precise date of its origin cannot be ascertained. That it was inhabited by the Britons long prior to the Roman subjugation of the island is hardly questionable, as its British names of Caer-Isc, or Caer-TVisc, " the City on the Waters ;" Caer-Ryth, or Ruth, "the City on the Red Soil;" Pen-Caer, "the Chief City;" and Caer-Penhuelgoit, " the Prosperous Chief City in the Wood," are all indications of its settlement by that people. Under the Romans, by whom it was styled Isca-Danmoniorum, in order to distinguish it from Isca Silurum (Usk) in Monmouthshire, its trade and importance were greatly advanced ; and Richard of Cirencester has ranked it among the stipendiary cities. Roman vestiges of various description, as coins, penates, urns, and other antiquities, have been dug up in divers parts of the City, but particularly in the vicinities of the High Street and Rougemont Castle. By the Saxons its name was altered into Exan-Ceastre, from Exe, the adjacent river, and Ceastre, a fortress or castle; and hence, by progressive changes, it has received its present appellation.* Pleasantly situated on the top and acclivity of an eminence, rising from the banks of the river Exe, which flows in a semicircular direction to the south-west, Exeter and the surrounding country presents to the admirer of pictorial effect, from the neigh- bouring heights, a most interesting series of picturesque and beautiful prospects. From Exwick Hill, where the annexed View was taken, are beheld in succession the low grounds through which the Exe winds its sinuous course, the rich foliage which crowns the finely- wooded ramparts (now called the Northern-Hay) of the ancient Castle, the numerous churches and other buildings of the City spreading gradually from the river until sur- mounted by the castellated towers of that venerable pile, the Cathedral, — and the distant hills, (including the brown heights of Haldon,) of almost mountainous elevation, which terminate the landscape with their bold and swelling outlines. This City is not less interesting to the historian and the antiquary, than to the amateur of beautiful scenery. Occupying an advantageous and commanding site, and forming, as it were, a key to a territory of wide extent and vast resources, it has often been made the theatre of war, and obtained renown in the military annals of the kingdom. It has been successively held by the British tribes and Roman legions, and besieged and plundered by Saxon and Danish hordes, and by Norman adventurers. Each, however, of these nations, have in their turn added to its consequence. In later ages, it became a scene of hostility during the wars between the rival houses of York and Lancaster ; was closely though ineffectually invested by Perkin Warbeck, in Henry the Vllth's reign ; and, in that of the last Edward, most gallantly defended by its inhabitants against the • The names of many of our rivers, as the Exe, the Eske, the Usk, &ec. have been derived from an ancient British word, signifying water. c 10 DErONSniRE. western insurgents, who, in the eflTervescence of mistaken zeal, had taken up arms in opposition to the proposed change in the forms of religious worship. Containing also, M'ithin its limits, the castle of Rougemont, which was first built by the Romans, and suc- cessively occupied by the West-Saxon kings, and the Dukes of Exeter ; and the Cathe- dral of St. Peter, to which the sanctity of its founder, St. Edward the Confessor, and the wealth and influence of its bishops, drew innumerable pilgrims, and a vast influx of visitors and strangers ; — for whose accommodation hostelries and other buildings were necessarily erected, — and commanding, from its situation, an extensive commerce, Exeter at an early period became, as it has continued to be, (to employ the emphatic language of its native historian, Risdon,) " the emporium and principal ornament of the West," and " pride of the West Countrie." GUILDHALL, EXETER. The annexed Engraving displays the exterior form of the Guildhall, together with tRe diversified buildings of the High Street : the figures introduced serve to indicate the animated and bustling scene which that avenue exhibits on market-days. Some writers state, that the ancient Guildhall stood in Waterbeare-street ; yet that erudite antiquary, the Rev. George Oliver, is of opinion that it has " invariably occupied its present situation." It is mentioned in a deed of the 13th century, but is said to have been rebuilt in the year 1330, and again, according to Hoker, in 1464. In front was a Chapel, dedicated to St. George and St. John Baptist, which was suppressed (with the other chantries) soon after the accession of Edward the Sixth, and the building itself was entirely destroyed in Queen Elizabeth's reign ; when, in the year 1593, the present front was erected, or, as Mr. Oliver has more fitly expressed it, " heaved up in its stead," in the style and form which it still exhibits ; but several important alterations have been tnade in the interior since that period. The Hustings' Court, in particular, was much improved in 1802, and a new gallery was then constructed for the Petty Jury. In its present state, the Guildhall is more remarkable for the massiveness and variety of parts exhibited by its exterior aspect, than for any architectural beauty. The upper stories, which project beyond the line of houses into the street, are supported by semicircular arches resting on heavy moor-stone columns, thus forming an arcade or por- tico to the main entrance. The vestibule presents little worthy of notice : behind it is a spacious and lofty Common Hall, at the upper end of which is the Court of Hustings, with raised seats for the justices, and other officers, and galleries for the juries. The wainscoting is of oak, richly carved, and along the cornices is ranged a great number of escutcheons, blazoned with the arms of the City, Mayors, Recorders, incorporated Trades, &c. The roof is of frame-work, and supported by grotesque corbe) figures. Among the paintings preserved here, is a full-length portrait of the Princess Henrietta Maria, (who was born at Bedford-house, in this City, on June the 16th, 1644,) daughter iPiLTrmonnrist piiibichc ]L.icBmA]RT. DEVONSHIRE. U of King Charles the First, by Sir Peter Lely ; and another of General Monk, Duke of Albe- marle, by the same artist. There is also a portrait of George II. by Hudson, who was a native of Exeter, and master to Sir Joshua Reynolds. In the rear of the Hall are two gloomy apartments termed the Backgrate, in which culprits are confined until they have passed their final examination. On the second floor are two large rooms, one of which is appropriated to the use of the Grand Jury, and in which the civic feasts and con- vivial meetings are held : the other is chiefly used by the members of the Corporation as a Council Chamber. Among the portraits in the latter, is a curious one of John Hoker, the historian and chamberlain of Exeter in Queen Elizabeth's reign. The upper apartments formerly contained a quantity of old armour, arms, &c. but are now occupied as depositories for the records and muniments relative to City-lands, and other pro- perty. A balustraded parapet surmounts the whole ; and from the leads there is a fine prospect over the City, and adjacent country. PLYMOUTH. " Plym christeneth that Town which beares her noble name ; Vpon the British coast, what ship yet ever came That not of Plymouth heares ? — where those brave Navies lie, From cannons' thund'ring throats, that all the world defie." Drayton's Poly-Ollnon : First Song. Plymouth was originally a small fishing village, or, as Leland states, from a manuscript of Henry the Second's reign, " a mene thing as an inhabitation for Jischars;" but its advantageous situation on the inner shore of a capacious bay, or sound, formed by the conflux of the sea with the expansive estuaries of the rivers Plym and Tamar, combined with the vast augmentation of the British navy, has been the leading cause of its advance to a rank and consequence greatly superior to those of most other maritime towns. According to a Life of St. Indractus, Plymouth was, in the time of the Saxons, called Tameorwerth, but after the Conquest it acquired the name of South-town, or Sutton, of which an indication is still apparent in Sutton-Pool, which spreads its waters on the east side of the town. In Edward the First's reign, the northern part was called Sutton Prior, and the southern part Sutton Valletort, from the situation of each respectively, on the estates of the priors of Plympton, and the family of the Valletorts ; but those names were finally relinquished in Henry the Sixth's time, when, in the year 1439, this town was first incorporated by the style and title of " The Mayor and Commonalty of Plym- mouth ;" an appellation that had been occasionally used in the preceding century. Under the fostering influence of the priors of Plympton, Plymouth first began to acquire consequence, but scarcely had it done so, than it excited the jealousy of the French, who sought to destroy it by fire. In their first attempt, which, according to Holinshed, was made in " Whitsun-Weeke," 1339, they burnt great part of the town, but were afterwards repulsed with a loss of 500 men, by Hugh Courtenay, the octogena- 12 DEVONSHIRE. rian Earl of Devonshire, assisted by " other knights and men of the countrie," who had hastily assembled under his banners. In 1350, Stow says, the French, after burning Teignmouth, again attempted Plymouth, but finding it well defended, they contented themselves by destroying " the farms and fair places" in the neighbourhood. In 1377j a few days after the decease of Edward the Third, the Frenchmen, as Holinshed informs us, who were " wafting on the seas," wherever they saw advantage, " set on land, burning sundrie towns neere, as Portesmouth, Dartmouth, and Plimmouth ;" and in 1403, " the Britaines, under the conduct of the Lord of Cassils," again " spoiled and burnt" this town. Upwards of six hundred houses were then destroyed ; but the enemy was foiled in an attempt on the castle, and quitted the harbour. Shortly afterwards, the " westerne men" took a dire revenge, by ravaging and destroying numerous towns and villages along a great extent of the French coast. Notwithstanding these repeated devastations, Plymouth, after a brief interval, rapidly increased both in extent and population, the great conveniency and goodness of the haven, and the liberality of the Plympton priors in granting leases at small fines, with certain privileges, inducing many merchants, and other persons engaged in maritime pursuits, to settle there. The walls and fortifications were also progressively extended, by which means additional security was obtained, and the inhabitants protected from any sudden irruption of an enemy. Leland, who visited this town in Henry the Eighth's reign, says, " The mouth of the gulph, where the shippes of Plyramouth lyith, is wauUed on eche side, and chained over in tyme of necessitie : on the south-west side of the mouth is a block- house, and, on a rocky hill hard by it, is a strong castle quadrate, having on eche corner a great round tower." This description exactly tallies with a chart of the Haven of Plymouth, &c. drawn in the above reign, and now preserved in the British Museum, of which an engraved copy is given in Lysons's Devonshire. The block-house and quadrate castle " on the rocky hill," that is, the Hoe, are distinctly shewn, together with the chain across the " gulph (Sutton Pool) where the shippes lie," as well as other fortifications at Stonehouse Point. A bulwark and other defences were also raised on the adjacent island of St. Nicholas, in the year 1548. At the period of the threatened invasion in 1588, by the Spanish Armada, which papal infallibility and arrogance had pronounced Invincible, this port equipped seven ships and a fly-boat to oppose the foe, which was a greater number than was furnished by any port except London. At the same time, Plymouth Sound was appointed a rendezvous for the British fleet, and 120 sail assembled there under the command of Lord Howard of Effingham, and the renowned Admirals Drake, Hawkins, and Frobisher. This fleet, receiving intelligence of the near approach of the enemy, sailed for Torbay, to join the Exeter ships ; and very soon afterwards the vaunted Armada appeared off the coast, and lay to, in form of a crescent. During this short interval of repose, the situation of Mount Edgecumbe engaged so strongly the attention of the Duke de Medina-Celi, the Spanish admiral, that he is reputed to have fixed on it as the place of his future residence. His DEVONSHIRE, 13 hopes, however, were doomed to disappointment, for, on sailing to the eastward, his ships were furiously assailed by the English admirals, and the destruction thus commenced was completed, in a few days, by a violent storm ; so that the entire object of the expedition was frustrated, and the scattered remains of the Armada had the greatest difficulty to regain their oven shores. During the civil war in Charles the First's reign, Plymouth was held for the parlia- ment ; and although divers attempts were made to reduce it by siege, assault, and famine, in the years 1643, 1644, and 1645, the enduring hardihood of its inhabitants defeated every eflfort of the royal troops, though at different times they were commanded by Prince Maurice, in person, and at others by the brave Sir Richard Grenville and Colonel Digby. Various new works were raised during these operations, both by the town's-people and by their opponents, some of which yet remain on the high ground, north of the town; but a far more important addition to the defences of Plymouth was made in the reign of Charles the Second, in the years 1670 and 1671, when the present Citadel was erected at the eastern extremity of the Hoe, and partly upon the site of the old fort. Numerous batteries, block- houses, and other works, have been since constructed on various commanding points, for the more effectual defence of this harbour and its dependencies, and particularly on the Island of St. Nicholas, or Drake's Island, the latter of which may be considered as a natural outwork to the port. The advancing consequence of Plymouth was accelerated by the establishment, in the reign of William the Third, of a dock, and naval arsenal, about two miles towards the west, on the eastern shore of the Hamoaze. The town which has sprung from that establishment, acknowledged its origin for upwards of a century, in the humble name of Plymouth Dock, but it has since increased to an extent greater than its parent town, and, with the sanction of the King in council, it assumed, on the first of January 1824, the more sonorous and appropriate appellation of Devotiport. It is unnecessary, and indeed inconsistent with our plan, to enter more particularly into the history of Plymouth, on this occasion. Sufficient has been said to evince both its importance as a sea-port, and to intimate the nature and variety of its establishments as a maritime town. But it is not, alone, under those points of consideration, in which it will now be regarded. Within the present century, and more especially since the ces- sation of the last eventful war, it has assumed a new character, as well in respect to the increased intelligence of its inhabitants, as in regard to the great improvements which have taken place in the architectural style of its public and private buildings. Instead of the rude merriment or boisterous discord of former times, taste, elegance, and refinement distinguish the higher ranks of society, whilst the manners of the middle and lower classes participate in the genial change that has been effected by the spread of information, and the advance of literature. The harbour has been rendered secure and commodious by that stupendous work, the Break-water ; whilst in the town itself, new avenues have been opened, and new streets and rows of houses, and single buildings, have been erected. 14 DEVONSHIRE. which, collectively, have advanced it to the highest rank of our provincial ports. But we must here stop, — referring the reader to the ensuing pages, for distinct accounts of the more prominent features of the town. THE ROYAL HOTEL, AND SAINT ANDREW'S CHAPEL AND TERRACE, AT PLYMOUTH. Among the great improvements made at Plymouth within the last twenty years, has been the erection, near the western extremity of George-street, of a noble building, appropriated to the conjoined purposes of an Hotel and Theatre. This structure was designed and executed under the immediate superintendence of John Foulston, Esq., architect, of whose professional skill in grappling with, and overcoming some of the difficulties of his art — namely, in arrangement and adaptation — it furnishes an admirable example : the town is also indebted to the classical taste of the same gentleman, for several others of its best edifices. The expense of this fabric, which was commenced in September, 1811, and completed within two years afterwards, was partly defrayed by a sum raised in the way of tontine, and partly with funds supplied by the Corporation. On the foundation-stone is inscribed, " Tlieatn et Hospitii impensis Majoris et Communitatis Burgi Plymouth. Edmundus Lockyer, M.D.Major, fundamenta locavit, 1811. Johanne Foulston, Architecto." The annexed View shews the eastern division of the building, or that forming the Royal Hotel, which, to employ the words of its local historian, "is unrivalled in external appearance by the most distinguished Hotel of the Metropolis ;"* and, we may add, that its interior aspect and accommodations are in perfect harmony with its outward character. On the ground-floor are the principal tavern apartments, consisting of dining and sitting rooms, a commercial-room, coffee-room, &c. the entrance to which is under an Ionic portico of four columns, fifty-nine feet in width, and corresponding in its pro- portions with the Temple on the Ilissus, a choice example of Grecian simplicity. The upper floors are divided into numerous sitting and bed rooms ; besides which, there is a suite of assembly rooms attached to this Hotel, comprising a tea and occasional dining- room, card-rooms, ladies-room, and a handsome Ball-room. The latter apartment, which is seventy-six feet in length, and forty feet wide, is entered by three large folding doors, corresponding with those of the card-rooms on the opposite side of a capacious and handsome lobby. At each end of the Ball-room, a low segment arch springs from a break in the entablature supported by disengaged coupled columns. The lateral spaces are divided into five parts, by Grecian pilasters ; and the coved ceiling, which is con- centric with the arches at each end, is pierced at its springing with ten semicircular windows. In this room, the classical observer will remark, with pleasure, one of the • Vide Rowe'g " Panorama of Plymouth," p. 155, from -which authentic and well-written topographical guide, the iaformatipn detailed in this and the following article has been mostly derived. TSUE m.u iX^sXi H'OTEIL. AWB SX J^ki^'SJSiM"rf'& CJ-i-iiJ-\£,Ij iiiVX; Tii JilfiACi; . PCTMOPTC DEVONSHIRE. 15 finest specimens in this country of the Grecian-Corinthian capital j the superior taste of the architect having directed him to the Choragic monument of Lysicrates, at Athens, for its model, as well as for those of the entablature and ornaments, over it! Opposite the entrance doors is a screen, formed by coupled antae supporting the orchestra. From the centre of the painted ceiling hangs a superb chandelier, and four smaller ones are suspended from other parts. Massive and elegant chimney-pieces, of dark-hued Devon- shire marble, highly polished, ornament this and all the principal apartments. The Assemblies at these rooms commence in September, and continue until March; the whole being under the superintendence of a lady-patroness and four stewards. Behind the Hotel are extensive and commodious offices, including numerous coach-houses, and stabling for seventy horses.. Saitit Andrew's Chapel, of which the west end is represented in the Print, was built in the year 1823, after a design by Mr. Foulston, at the joint expense of the Rev. Robert Lampen, M. A., its present minister, and Henry WooUcombe, Joseph Pridham, and Thomas Gill, Esqrs. Neatness and simplicity are the prevailing characteristics of this edifice, which was intended as a chapel-of-ease to the Establishment, the two churches of Plymouth, viz. Saint Andrew's and Charles's, having long been inadequate to accommo- date the increased population. The front is of Dartmoor granite : the interior arrange- ments and fittings-up are peculiarly appropriate, and the ornamental parts display much taste and elegance. At the east end is a recess for the altar, separated from the body of the Chapel by a lofty arch, springing from pilasters, which, lilie the altar decorations, are painted in imitation of porphyry. The pulpit is designed after the Choragic monument of Lysicrates, and, of course, is circular in the plan ; round it, is a geometrical stair-case, passing through the reading-desk. The divisions are fully enriched with fret and honey- suckle ornaments, &c., and both the column, and the canopy it supports, are executed in the best manner from the above beautiful example. The whole is of wainscot, highly polished, and produces a chaste and classical effect. In the print, beyond the Chapel, is shewn a part of Saint Andrew's Terrace, which is a handsome and pleasant row of houses, erected in the superior style of improvement that now distinguislies this town. THE ROYAL THEATRE, AND ATHENE UM,— PLYMOUTH. In the general aspect of the above buildings there is an air peculiarly classical, as may readily be inferred from the accompanying View, which was taken from the middle part of George-street, and looking towards the Crescent. It chiefly represents the northern front of the Rm/al Theatre, and Hotel, the latter of which has been fully described in the preceding article. This facade, which is 270 feet in length, and fur- nished with three tiers of windows, has, in the centre, a magnificent portico of the Ionic order, according, in its details, with the minor portico already described. Its extent is fi DEVONSHIRE. seventy-three feet ; it consists of eight columns, (each three feet six inches in diame- ter,) based on a flight of steps, and sustaining an entablature and pediment. Within the portico are three capacious entrances, the first and second of which lead to the box circles of the Theatre, and the third forms the main approach to the great Hall and Staircase of the Assembly Rooms, before noticed. The entire western division of this building, from the portico, is occupied by the Theatre and its appendages ; in the construction of which, the architect has introduced a plan of the greatest advantage to the public, by guarding against the alarming effects of fire; and we regret, that it is not adopted universally in buildings of this description. The two stair-cases which lead to the corridor of the upper circle of boxes are of stone 5 the principal supports and frame-work of the boxes, and all the interior partitions, are of cast iron, and the roof is of wrought iron : the latter, although sixty feet in the span, carries great part of the scenery and machinery : it is perfectly firm, though calculated to be less in weight, by one-third, than the roof must have been if constructed of timber. The contour of the Auditorium forms about two-thirds of a circle, the extremity being rounded off so as to admit a view of the stage from every part. The Proscenium is formed by four beautiful marble columns, of the Ionic order, with gold bases and capitals, supporting an elegant entablature, from which rises an arch richly pannelled. The scenic decorations are appropriate and well executed. Over the back of the upper circle of boxes is a colonnade and gallery, the entrance to which, as well as to the pit, is on the south. This Theatre is held under a lease granted by the Mayor and Commonalty, and has its season in the autumnal and winter months. The Athenceum derived its origin from that vigorous spirit of intellectual inquiry, which of late years has actuated the population of this town. But its more immediate rise must be- referred to the establishment, in 1812, of the Plymouth Institution, for the Promotion of Science, Literature, and the Fine Arts ; chiefly, by the exertions of Henry Woollcombe, Esq., and his more immediate friends. The meetings of the Society were at first held at the Public Library, and afterwards at the Picture Gallery, in Frankfort Place ; but the accommodations becoming insufficient for the increased number of mem- bers, and the advancing importance of the Institution, it was determined to erect a building for its exclusive use. Hence emanated the Athenaeum; the foundation-stone of which was laid by the above Mr. Woollcombe on May the 1st, 1818, and it was com- pleted and opened for the public business of the Society, in February, 1819. For the chaste and classical design of this edifice, the Institution is indebted to the generous zeal of one of its members, viz. John Foulston, Esq., the architect of the Theatre, who not only furnished the drawings, but also superintended the work, gra- tuitously, until its completion. It is a very fine example of the Grecian Doric order, exhibiting in front a portico of fomr columns, extending to the breadth of thirty-six feet : each column is three feet nine inches in diameter. The central intercolumniation is more than double the others in width ; there being two intervening triglj-phs over the DEVONSHIRE. I7 former, but over the lateral spaces only one. Beyond the returns of the portico, the walls of the building are plain, except that the entablature, with its triglyphs and metopes, is continued along each side : its total depth is upwards of one hundred and nine feet. The vestibule opens from the portico, and is ornamented with an entablature sup- ported by Doric columns; behind these is the staircase leading to the Committee-room, which contains the Library and cases for apparatus. In the Hall, or Lecture-room, which measures thirty-six by thirty feet, are four rows of benches, on each side, affording accommodation for the members and visitors. Opposite the Lecturer's table is a hand- some chair for the president, with seats for the secretary and treasurer. Over the president's chair, is a colossal bust of Minerva, the gift of the Rev. Robert Lampen ; and in distinct recesses, and in other parts of the hall, are ranged a series of fine casts from the metopes and procession which anciently adorned the frieze of the Parthenon at Athens, but are now preserved in the Elgin Collection in the British Museum. These casts were munificently presented to the Institution by his present Majesty, George the Fourth. Here also are casts, from the same collection, of the Ilissus and the Theseus j together with others of the Apollo Belvidere, given by Admiral Sir T. B. Martin, — the Medicean Venus, presented by the late Sir William Congreve, Bart. — and the Antinous, the gift of the present Earl of Morley. A door-way behind the Lecturer's table, having on its frieze the motto, T0I2 NYN KAI TOIS EHEITA, — {For Ourselves and Posteriti/,) — opens to a staircase which leads to the Museum. The latter has been recently annexed to the Athe- naeum, and contains an interesting collection of minerals, fossils, preserved birds, shells, insects, artificial curiosities, &c. Beneath this apartment is an Elaboratory, with other minor rooms, and a lobby leading into the garden belonging to the establish- ment. Great interest is excited by the occasional display, in this hall, of an Exhibition of Paintings, which is partly formed by the works of Devonian artists and amateurs, and partly by productions of the British and Foreign Schools, which are furnished from the collections of the neighbouring nobility and gentry. This exhibition opens in August, and during the month of its continuance, the Athenaeum is a favourite resort for company; particularly on those evenings when the hall is illumined for their especial reception.* The great object of the Plymouth Institution is to advance the intellectual character of the town, by facilitating the acquirement and diffusion of knowledge in the various departments of Literature, Science, and Art. It consists of ordinary, extraordinary, honorary, and corresponding members ; and its affairs are directed by a president, and three vice-presidents, elected from among the ordinary members. The season • The Plymouth Exhibition of Pictures was first commenced in the year 1815, in the Gallery at Frankfort Place. Devonshire and Cornwall have given birth to many artists of distinguished excellence ; and Plymouth itself has to boast, among its more eminent painters, of Northcote, Prout, Haydon, and Ball. £ IS DEVONSHIRE. commences on the first Thursday in October, and is continued until the last Thursday in March. Every week a lecture, or essay, is delivered by a member, commencing at seven o'clock in the evening ; after which a discussion thereon, or on some other interesting topic, (exclusive of politics and controversial theology,) is entered into, and conti- nued until ten o'clock, at which hour, by the laws of the Society, the sittings always terminate. ST. NICHOLAS'S, OR DRAKE'S ISLAND, MOUNT EDGCUMBE, AND PENLEE POINT. Tlie aimexed View represents the western side of Plymouth Harbour, as it appears from the Hoe. Its chief features are the Isle of St. Nicholas, and the picturesque grounds of Mount Edgcumbe ; but as the latter place will be more distinctly shewn in another print, our present article will be confined to the Island, alone. Commencing with its name, we remark, tliat at different periods it has been Ctalled St. Nicholas', St. Michael's, and Drake's Island. Camden, speaking of the secure anchorage in Plymouth Harbour, says, " It is also fortified against an enemy ; for, in the middle of the entrance is Sf. Michael's Isle, with fortifications of its own." Holland, in his translation of the *' Britannia," which was first published in 1610, corrects that appellation to St. Nicholas; but in the subsequent edition of 1637, the former name — which it had acquired from the dedication to St. Michael of a small chapel that anciently crowned its summit — is restored. Risdon, contemporary with Holland, suspects it to have been known in the time of the Heptarchy, under the name of Tamanvorth. At what time, or from what cause, it obtained the name of Drake's Island, by which it is disthiguished in Elliott's plan, attached to Rowe's " Panorama of Plymouth," is uncertain. Some local tradition has, probably, connected it with the history of the eminent circumnavigator whose cognomen it bears. In the chart of Plymouth Haven, drawn in Henry the Eighth's reign, (which has already been referred to in our account of the town,) it is called St. Nicholas Island. At that time it appears to have been altogether unfortified, the only building represented upon it being St. Michael's Chapel. Early in the following reign, that edifice became an object of attention to the Privy Council, as may be certified by the following passage from the extracts of its proceedings, now preserved among the Harleian Manuscripts in the British Museum. It is there stated, (viz. MS. No. 352,) that on the 28th of March, 1548, a letter was sent to the Mayor of Plymouth and his brethren, " marvelinge of their unwUlingeness to proceede in the fortefyinge of St. Michaelles Chaj)pele to be made a bidwarke, when the suretieof so small a thinge might assure them againste all attemptes; and wher they alledge the pluckinge downc of that Chappelle harde to the foundacion. ■^■\ ■-T-''> r> fif*rt TV*,--- , iji-iiu,!.. tleliTei-ed b)' a nv >ii, or Oi. hour, by the -laws of the Society, the. OR DRAK- 1, wr rdmnrk, ttiat at ditfereat periods it lias been called St "it. -1 J » 1 • 1 1 . _ T . . I - . . _ 1 :_ . _ . ,- . t Heiin which h^i '■< called St. ? S"f iTIC£['JJiAiJ'=S iiT? T) -fiATr F.';S :iSi.&iTJ3, MOl03fT ItlDiBSCCCCtiB & >->iHX£i'. -^iJiil'J.. X'llVO-NSBrSJ' D.C.L. KR.S. TMIg M^AT- DEVONSHIRE. 19 they were answered the same beinge made upp againe with a wall of turfe should neither be of less afecte or strengthe, (for a meane strengthe for such a place suf&ced,) nor yet of such greate coste as they intended ; — and therefore eftesones the Lordes desired them like good subjectes, according to their former letteres, (all excuses set aparte,) to goe in hande with that worke accordinglie, as they might therby be esteemed, that they tender the Kinges Ma."" pleasure, and tlieir owne sureties and defence cheifeste." — We may infer, that this letter had its due effect ; for Westcott, in his manuscript survey of Devon, says, that in the western insurrection of 1549, the Island of St. Nicholas was a place of refuge to divers gentlemen. During the civil war in the reign of Charles the First, this Island, together with Plymouth itself, was constantly held in subjection to the Parliament, although it was twice or thrice on the eve of being treacherously surrendered to the royal forces. Early in 1642, the command of the " Fort, and Island of St. Nicholas," was entrusted to Sir Alexander Carew ; but, on the discovery, in the September following, that he was on the point of betraying his trust, he was sent prisoner to London, and executed on Tower- hill. In November, 1643, immediately after the reduction of Mount Stamford by Prince Maurice, and " while all men stood in doubt of the issue," Colonel James Wardlow, the governor of Plymouth, gave orders for securing this Island, which, at that time, from the presumed culpability of " four deputy lieutenants," to whom its defence had been en- trusted, was " utterly destitute of provisions and ammunition." Both the Fort and the Island were, in consequence, revictualled, and the garrison strengthened, by which means, and by employing officers of approved fidelity, this important barrier was effectively occu- pied, and secured from danger. Since that period, the fortifications on this Island, which is surrounded by rocks, and strong by nature, have been greatly augmented, and it now constitutes the chief defence of Plymouth Sound. It lies immediately opposite to Mill Bay and the peninsula of Stonehouse, from which it is distant about half a mile. The extent of the isle, in its longest direction, is three furlongs, and it comprises about the same number of acres. It is connected with the south-western shore by a range of rocks, which is uncovered at low tides, and is locally designated the Bridge. Even at high-water, no vessel can pass that ridge, except those of very small burden ; large vessels are obliged to make a circuit of at least two miles. In addition to its other defences, it contains furnaces for heating balls red-hot. The garrison is generally formed by a detachment of troops from the Citadel of Plymouth. Penlee Point is a projecting headland at the south-eastern extremity of Cawsand Bay : a lofty obelisk, forming a conspicuous sea-mark, has been erected upon it. 20 DEVONSHIRE. THE LARY BRIDGE, OVER THE PLYM, OR SALTRAM CREEK. " Years have flown, Sweet Laba, yet thy bank, uprushing still, ChaiTDs as of old, and Saltram's pensile woods Seem beautiful as ever." — Carringto7i's Dartmoor, a Poem. At the head of a branch of the sea, called the Cahoater, which forms the westernmost inlet of Plymouth harbour, is a lake-like expanse named the Lara ; probably from the lams, or gull, by which bird its lucid waters are still numerously frequented, though not so abundantly as in the " olden times," ere the massive tors of Dartmoor were subjected to the iron grasp of commerce, and the rail-way and granite works were established on the northern banks of this estuary. Into the upper Lara, the " sylvan Plym" pours its " vagrant stream," the south side is fringed by the groves of Saltram, the splendid seat of the Earl of Morley, to whose public spirit and sagacious mind the Lara, or Lary Bridge, is indebted for its erection : this structure crosses the western part of the strait, at a short distance from the noble limestone cliffs of Oreston, and along its northern shore extends the Plymouth embankment road, which unites with the old road to Exeter, by Ivy Bridge and Ashburton. Before the erection of the Lary Bridge, the communication between the opposite banks was carried on by means of a ferry-boat, which, from its peculiar construction and accommodation, was called the " Flying Bridge," and had been established by the Earl of Morley, as proprietor of the ancient ferry between Oreston and Catdown. The frequent interruptions, however, in this passage, occasioned by spring-tides and bad weather, led to other schemes ; and, in the session of 1823, an act of parliament was obtained for the erection of a Suspension Bridge : but different circumstances having led to an aban- donment of the site first proposed, the powers of that act were, in the following year, extended to the design of the present structure, which was planned by that very inge- nious engineer, Mr. J. M. Rendel, of Plymouth, and constructed under his direction and constant superintendence. In the strait where the Bridge is built, " the waters are confined to a channel of about 550 feet in width, (at high water,) formed by abrupt lime-rock cliffs, which disappear immediately above the Bridge, and leave the Lara a basin of considerable magnitude, receiving the waters of the rivers Plym and Tavy, and minor streams. On boring in several places, it was found that the substratum was schistos, or slate rock, lying nearly horizontal, at a depth of 80 feet below high-water. The superstratum consists of a mixture of granite sand, deposited by the Plym, and alluvial matter brought in by the tides, which, having accumulated to the depth of 60 feet on an average, a considerable portion of the higher parts of the basin is, at low water, left dry." * • Vide Renders " Particulars of the Construction of the Lary Bridge," (p. 3.) from which statement all the technical details of this article have been derived. DEVONSHIRE. 21 The Lary Bridge is a light but substantial structure, consisting of five elliptical arches of cast-iron, springing from abutments and piers of stone-work. Instead of being straight- sided, as customary, the piers are curved ; and from thus swelling towards the base, they appear, at a little distance, to form a continuous line with the arches, by which the effect on the eye is much improved : the abutments, also, are similarly curved. " The arches spring from their piers and abutments about four feet above high-water of spring tides : their altitudes correspond with the curve, or camber, of the Bridge between the abut- ments, which is formed by a radius of 4670 feet. The road-way is 24 feet wide within the railings, 500 feet in length between the abutments, and, in the centre of the Bridge, 22 feet above high-water of spring tides." The other dimensions, as given by Mr. Rendel, are as follow : — The centre arch is one hundred feet span ; its rise, or springing, fourteen feet six inches ; the thickness of the piers at the springing, ten feet ; their thickness at low-water spring-tides, fifteen feet; at the foundations, nineteen feet; their height, twenty-nine feet. The adjoining arches are each ninety-five feet span ; their rise, or springing, thirteen feet three inches. The piers, taken as before, nine feet six inches, fourteen feet six inches, and eighteen feet six inches, respectively; their height twenty- nine feet. The side arches are each eighty-one feet span ; their rise, or springing, ten feet six inches. The abutments, at the level of the springing, are each thirteen feet six inches ; at the level of low-water, seventeen feet ; at the foundations, nineteen feet : their height from the foundations to the springing is twenty-eight feet. — Blocks of granite of six and seven tons weight, form the springing points of the arches ; all which are segments of an ellipse, having the transverse diameter situated on a level, five feet below the springing points. — All the masonry, except such parts of the piers and abutments as are in contact with the iron-work, which is fixed in granite, is built with lime-stone from the neighbouring quar- ries, belonging to the Earl of Morley. The piers and abutments are built with wrought blocks, in sizes varying from two to five tons each. From the loose description of the soil forming the bed of the river, considerable skill was required in securing the foundations of this bridge from the undermining effects of the current ; but the danger has been effectually guarded against, by forming an artificial bottoming, which extends from sixty feet above, to seventy feet below, the bridge. In levelling the pile-heads, and paving the spaces between them, in order to make a firm basis for the piers, a wooden diving-bell was used (the first instance of the kind) into which the light was admitted through lenses fixed in the top. The foundations, masonry, &c. of this bridge were executed by Messrs. Johnson, of the Plymouth Granite- works : the iron superstructure was cast by Mr. Hazledine, of Shrews- bury. The works were commenced on the 4th of August, 1824 ; the first stone was laid on the 16th of March, 1825 ; and the bridge was opened on the 14th of July, 1827, on which day her Royal Highness the Duchess of Clarence, and suite, first passed over it, on her way to Plymouth. F DBVOHSHIRE. The faOowmg inscriptloB is affixed to a Mock of granite at tbe northern extremity of the r BUHC POVTSV SKKATTS ACCTOaiTATB SVSCKFTUU XOVAS KT COMMODAS TIAS KSCLUDKVTEM JOHA^'KES COSIES D£ MORLET, sris sruFnBrs STRUKKDUM CCRAVIT. opes I>CBOATCM, A. D. 1624 ; ABsoLxmrn, a. d. 1827. J. M. KBXDBL, AKCBITCCTO. SIDMOUTH, FROM THE CLIFFS TOWARDS SEATON. Swaora ! ^jfoM't ^«i* nat! Thy nd^ difi, tkr pdably btmck, Tkj bamd majatic oceaareacii; A>d itiiBii Oat ■■□■■T Ora' tkj gieen retreat.'* — Somxet. It appears, from Ae ledger-boot of the Priory of Otterdon, (in Chappie's "Collections,") tiiat Sidmooth, in the thirteenth century, was a borongh and maibet town, governed by a portreeve. Risdon calls it, " one of the especialest fisher towns of the shire :" Sir William Pole, and other writers also, speak of it as famous for its fishery. During a long series of years, h o w e ver, the fishing trade has been pn^ressing to other places on this coast, and Sidmouth is now known only as a fashionable bathing and watering-place, iar whkii its fine and heahhfol sitnation, and tiie beautiful scenery of its neigfabonrfaood, give it peculiar claims. Sid-wtomtiy as its name imports, is situated near the spot where the little rirer Sid flows Ui w anls the oceaa. Its immediate site is a narrow valley, opening to the sea between two no^es of steep hills, and occupying the margin of a small bay, bounded on the east by Sal- combe HiU, and on the west by Peak Hill. The situation of Sidmouth, in respect to the southern coast of England, was thus accurately described by the late Rev. Edmund Butcher, in his 'New Guide' to diis ndghbourhood : — " It lies nearly in the middle of that vast bay, which is bounded on the east by the Isle of Portland and the Start Point. Tbe whole of this extenare curve is scolloped with a number of hollows and small bays, formed by the bold headlands of Devon and Dorset. Between the lofty and magnificent ridges wfaidi diese headlands terminate, a multitude of streams, which adorn and fertilize the ridi valleys through which they flow, are continually finding their way to the sea ; and "WKBardett. SEDMOIOTTH, JPaS-OM THE CUjISTFS, TO"W«i3U3S STEATOI?. W H Baxactt TffiUE xrii ijiB'jtARrs; saiDMcoiffTai . DEVONSHIRE, 23 on the margin of one of these minor bays, lies the small, but rapidly increasing subject of the present sketch." The undulating and richly cultivated vale through which the Sid meanders, is screened towards the north by the Gittisham and Honiton hills. In summer, this stream is lost among the pebbles on the beach, but in winter, or when swollen by the rain, it opens a passage for itself, and pours its waters into the sea in no inconsiderable stream. The neighbouring cliffs. Dr. Matou remarks in his "Observations on the Western Coun- ties," are composed of sand, tinged, by the red oxide of iron, and partly calcareous ; the glare of which, together with that of a broad bed of pebbles, and the low situation of Sidmouth, renders it intensely hot at the time of a clear summer sky : the adjacent scenery is, however, finely diversified, and picturesque. Sidmouth has a bold and open shore, but the beach is protected from the attacks of the ocean by a natural rampart of pebbles, rising in four or five successive stages from the surface of the sea at low water, yet varying in their relative heights and directions, with every tide, according to the force of the winds, and the swell of the waves. At the head of this shingly rampart, a broad and commodious walk, about one third of a mile in length, called the Beach, affords a delightful promenade. The Church, which is a small stone edifice, having a well-built and handsome tower at the west end, contains, among its sepulchral memorials, an inscription in memory of the late James Currie, M.D. F.R.S. who died at Sidmouth in the year 1805. He was dis- tinguished in his medical practice, by using affusions of cold water, in fevers : he also published a treatise on the French revolution, and edited a collection of the Works of the poet Burns; circumstances which are thus alluded to in his epitaph : — " Freedom and Peace shall tell to many an age Thy warning counsels, thy prophetic page ; And, taught by thee, shall on the burning frame The healing freshness pour, and bless thy name ; Whilst Genius proudly, as to Fame she turns, Shall twine thy laurels with the wreath of Bcrns." This town is principally built in the form of the letter Y: there are also two small suburbs lespectively called Western Town, and the Marsh. Between the years 1800 and 1821, the population and the buildings were more than doubled, and since the latter date, a great augmentation has taken place in both respects. According to the returns made in 1821, Sidmouth parish contained 480 houses, and 2/47 inhabitants. The newest lodging-houses are ranged near the beach, but excellent accommodations may be obtained in other parts of the town. The scenery along the coast from Sidmouth to Seaton, ranks with the finest on the southern shores of Devonshire. The rocks are bold and lofty, and by their association with other objects, produce very romantic and picturesque views. The precipitous cliffs of the Peak and Salcombe Hills, rise more than 600 feet above the sea, at low water. 24 DEVONSHlilil. THE YORK HOTEL, AND LIBRARY, SIDMOUTH. There are three good Inns at Sidmouth, viz. the London Inn, the New Inn, and the Yarh Hotel; the two former are in the eastern branch of the town, and the latter upon the beach, as represented in the annexed View. This Hotel has an uninterrupted prospect over the vast bay, upon the inner skirts of which the town is situated, yet from the great distance of the main channel, no vessels of considerable magnitude can come nearer than " the extreme verge of the horizon." The original assembly and card rooms are at the London Tavern : there is also a new and handsome assembly room at Marsh's Libraiy, which, as well as Wallis's Library, is on the beach: the latter, which was the first established, stands at the corner of the Fort Field and Cricket Ground, and was opened on the 20th of June, 1809. Near this Library a new Hotel is lately established \mder the name of The Marine Hotel and Boarding-House. In the vicinity of Sidmouth are many respectable and pleasing Cottages, and Villas, which have been erected by gentry and by strangers, whom the attractions of this salutary coast have here congregated. The principal residences in the environs are as follow : — Peak House, E. B. Lousada, Esq. — Witheby Cottage, Miss Wrighte — Audley Cottage, Dowager Lady Audley — Powys Cottage, Mrs. Powys Floyd — Arcot House, Lieut.-General Rumley — Woodland Cottage, Rear-Admiral Digby — Knowle Cottage, T. L. Fish, Esq. shewn on Mondays, from two to four o'clock, during July, August, September, and October — Fort House, Sir John Kennaway, Bart. THE BREAKWATER, PLYMOUTH SOUND. Among the great and sublime works of man, calculated either to combat with, or control, the energies of Nature, may be ranked the Breakwater, in Plymouth Sound. This bay, which is bounded by a part of Cornwall, and by Mount Edgcumbe to the west, and the irriguous coast of Devonshire on the north and north-east, is about three miles wide at its entrance from tlie English Channel, and rather more in depth ; after a dock- yard had been formed at the spot, (tlience called Plymouth-Dock,) a division of our national fleet was generally stationed there. Possessing many advantages over every other harbour on the south-western coast, it became the chief port of rendezvous for men- of-war during the late wars with France. When the enemies' fleet assembled at Brest, and threatened to invade this island, the peculiar capabilities of Plymouth harbour, as a naval station, were fully appreciated. It was found, however, on the occurrence of storms from the south-west, that the waves rolled in with tempestuous swells, and not only endangered the vessels at anchor, but completely prevented their putting out to sea. From that circumstance, our fleet was frequently compelled to seek safety in Tor-bay, where, however, there was less natural protection from headlands, and inferior accom- PJLTMOaTH BREATWATEB., STROM THK "WEST . 'Allom: THE EIAE.B1IC&H', POOL, StC. VlXMOliTM.. rbole, at 20 per cent....... 175,200 £1,051,200 Esthnate of the Expense of a cut-stone Wall, and two LAght-houses, to be built on the top of the Great Breakwater. 42,000 cobic yards of masonry, in the walls of the Pier, at 27s £44,700 62,000 cubic yards of rubble, between the outer and inner walls, at 6s 18,600 Paving the top of the pier with large blocks of stone, 8500 square yards 22,950 Two Light-houses, with reflectors and Argand lamps 5,000 Contingencies, 20 per cent 28,650 119,900 1,051,200 Total £1,171,100 In working the quarries at Oreston, an extraordinary discovery was made in the midst of the substrata. At the depth of 65 feet from the surface, and 25 feet from the margin of the sea, a mass, or nodule of clay, 25 feet in length by about 12 feet thick, was imbedded in the lime-stone. Enveloped in this clay were found the bones of a Rhinoceros, in a more perfect state than they have yet been met with in any other place. The annexed Engraving shews the surface of the Breakwater with its recent finishing of squared stones, its crane for landing them, and the contrasted appearance of the water on the outside and inside of the wall; together with the vessel. No. 1. employed in the conveyance and depositing of the stones. By the aid of some ingenious machinery, a cargo of eighty tons of stone can be discharged in about three-quarters of an hour. The following lines, by Gandy, are truly applicable to this vast work : — " the billows sleep Within the shelter of a wondrous pile Of man's vast workmanship— that new-made isle. That marble isle — brought piecemeal from the shore To break the weltering waves, and check their savage roar." DEVONSHIRE. 2J. THE BARBICAN, POOL, &c. PLYMOUTH. Sutton Pool, which opens into Catwater, is the internal Harbour of Plymouth, and the chief seat of the coasting trade and commerce of the town. Except at the entrance, it is completely surrounded by public and private quays, warehouses, shipwrights' yards, and buildings connected with maritime employments and pursuits. At the entrance, which is represented in the accompanying View, are two piers of solid masonry, ninety feet apart, which were constructed between the years 1791 and 1800, by means of grants obtained from parliament : the western pier is connected with the ancient work called the Barbican, and the eastern one projects from Teat's Hill. Since the above period, consi- derable improvements have also been made within the harbour by the Sutton Pool Company, by whom the " several dues which are paid by all ships entering the Pool, and occupying the quays, for the purposes of landing or shipping merchandize," are rented, on lease, of the Duchy of Cornwall. The Barbican quay, with parts of Foxhole and the New quays, belong to the Mayor and Commonalty of Plymouth, who let the dues to a yearly tenant ; together with those arising from the town-water at the Barbican steps, and from the use of the crane upon the quay. Boats may be hired at the western pier, to go to any part of the port, or sound; but it is to be regretted that there are no regulations to restrict the charge for fares. The Parade, or Coal-quay, is the station of the cartmen, draymen, and porters, who are licensed, annually, at the to\vn-clerk's office. Sutton Pool is the accustomed resort of the fishing vessels, locally called Traivlers, and likewise of the vessels employed in the coasting trade. The chief articles of import are coals, culme, timber, tar, iron, wines, spirits, Irish provisions, grocery, corn, fruit, glass, and earthenware ; those of export are, lime, marble, granite, metallic ores, slates, &c. Westcote, in his manuscript Survey, in the British Museum, speaks of the fishing- trade as very flourishing in his time. Very often, he says, one hundred sail of fishing vessels, and sometimes double that number, were to be seen in the harbour. In July, 1820, an act of parliament was obtained for extending the great Dartmoor Rail-way from Crab- tree to Sutton Pool, the estimated expenses being £7200. The ancient fortifications of this inlet, namely, the " Block House," and the " Castle Quadrate," have been mentioned in the preceding account of the town of Plymouth ; in the " Narrative" of the siege of which place, published in 1644, the Barbican is thus incidentally noticed. — " One remarkable passage of God's providence to us, we must with thankfulness relate, remember, and acknowledge. After the town had been a long time besieged strictly, and no fresh victual, either fish or flesh, could be had, whereby the poor people were grievously punished ; there came an infinite multitude of pilchards into the harbour, within the Barbican, which the people took up with great ease in baskets ; which did not only refresh them for the present, but a great deal more were taken, preserved, and salted, whereby the poor got much money : such a passage has not happened before." 28 DEVONSHIRE THE DOCK-YARD AND HARBOUR, DEVONPORT. Among the many important and interesting objects connected with the Navy of Great Britain, there is not one so much entitled to an Englishman's admiration and a foreigner's envy, as a Royal Dock- Yard. That at Devonport (like those at Portsmouth and Chatham) is replete with, every convenience, and affords all the facilities and advantages which our Navy requires, whether in times of war or in those of peace. For the construction, repair, and fitting out, of naval fleets, and for the manufacture, stowage, and preser- vation of the numerous articles required for such vast undertakings, this arsenal is peculiarly adapted. Such is the state of discipline and perfection by which all the various movements and processes are conducted, that it may be regarded as a sort of rational machine, worked by instinctive power, and set in motion by superior minds. Every man, every object, and each operation, seems tributary to that great floating citadel, and ever-shifting home — A man-of-war. Perhaps no sight is better calculated to enable a comprehensive mind to form a proper estimate of the powers of continued labour, than the gradual growth of a few rude pieces of timber, into the majestic and wonderful structure that braves and resists the elementary strife of storms and tempests. ■■ — " Here science lays The solM keel, Eind on it rears a frame Enduring, beautiful, magnificent." — " at last By thousand hands prepar'd, the finish'd ship Is ready." Carrington. " In contemplating this great naval arsenal," says Mr. Rowe, " we may regard it as one of the primary sources of the increased extent, wealth, and population of the whole Port of Plymouth, and as the immediate parent of the town of Devonport." The number of persons belonging to, and dependent on this yard, necessarily varies in times of war and peace ; but in round numbers it may be said that they fluctuate from 3000 to 5000. Considering that England's Navy has been its chief bulwark and security for so many ages, it is singular that the peculiar advantages of this harbour and situation did not occasion it to be chosen for a national dep6t for shipping before the time of William the Third. From that reign it has progressively, though not regularly, advanced in useful- ness, accommodations, and extent. The Dock- Yard occupies the eastern bank of the Hamoaze, which sweeps round to the south, and from which several slips, or openings, have been made. It was first formed in 1728, when forty acres were leased to Government by Sir William Morice, then lord of the manor. In 1768, it was enlarged, and again at the beginning of the present cen- tury. The whole area now comprises seventy-one acres, and thirty-six poles, including the projecting jetties ; sixty-four acres, two roods, and twenty-six poles of which are DEVONSHIRE. 29 rented of Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart, on a twenty-one years' lease, at 5Gs. per acre, and a fine of £534. 4s. 6d. on every renewal. On the land side, it is separated from the town by a lofty wall, which, in some places, is thirty feet high. A Sea-wall, of immense strength and depth, has also been constructed on the margin of the harbour, at some distance from the shore: the work was commenced in October, 1816; the first stone was laid in January, 1819 ; and in the following January, no less than 39,000 cubic feet of stone were used in the wall by the aid of the diving-bell. This wall is raised on piles, from fifty to sixty feet in length, and has been executed under the superintendence of Mr. Smith. The numerous, important, and highly- interesting objects contained within the area of this Dock-yard would occupy a volume to describe. Our space will admit of little more than an enumeration of their names: — these are, the Warder's House; the Dock-yard Chapel ; the Military Guard-house ; the Surgery ; a row of Dwelling-houses for the fol- lowing Ofi&cers, viz. — a commissioner and his secretary, the master shipwright and his two assistants, two masters attendant, clerk of the cheque, timber-master, storekeeper, the surgeon and his assistant, and the boatswain of the yard ; — the Smithery, with workshops for the plumbers, stone-masons, and brick -layers ; Pump-houses, Saw-pits, Kilns, in which such planks are steamed as are wanted for curved forms ; Artificers' workshops ; a Rigging- house and Sail-loft, 480 feet in length ; the Camber, or Canal, 60 feet wide, and 400 feet long, having a basin at the extremity; connected with this are Cranes of a novel construction and of great power, by two of which eight men can raise fifteen tons weight ; two Rope- houses, 1200 feet long, in which cables are made 100 fathoms in length, and 25 inches in circumference ; a Mould-loft, in which are prepared models and plans of all new vessels, and also of the different parts of each vessel, for the use of the workmen ; a Reservoir, to supply all parts of the yard with fresh water ; Slips, for bawling up and graving ships ; several Docks, including a double one ; an Anchor- wharf ; and a Mast-house and Ponds ; together with every other requisite accommodation for the purposes of this establishment. In the annexed View of the Dock-yard and Harbour, several objects of interest are represented, which require a few words of explanation. The large Vessel in the centre is the Captivity, now a convict ship : this was formerly the Bellerophon man-of-war, of 74 guns, to which ship, when commanded by Captain Maitland, and cruising in Basque Roads, off Rochefort, the Emperor Buonaparte surrendered himself, about six o'clock A.M. on the 15th of July, 1815.* Near the margin, on the left, is the Sheer-hulk, used for fixing the masts and rigging of the vessels in the harbour j and such is the order in which • The Bellerophon was fitted up for a convict ship at Sheemess in the early part of 1826, and in June, the same year, was first moored alongside the Dock-yard, at Devonport, under her new name of Captivity. At that time only eighty convicts were on board, but they have been since increased to about 450 ; the full number, for which there are accommodations, is GOO. The convicts are constrained to work in the Dock-yard from seven o'clock until twelve, in the mornings, and from a quarter past one o'clock until half past five, in the afternoons. This ship has three decks, the under-deck being an additional one, with ports cut to admit light. Her establishment of officers consists of an overseer, or captain, three mates, a surgeon, a chaplain, with inferior officers, quarter-masters, and guards, amounting to nineteen in number : divine service is performed twice, weekly, by the chaplain. H ^ DEVONSHIRE every mast, rope, and sail is kept, that the largest ships may be rigged for sea within the space of three or four days. The buildings delineated are Store-houses, in front of which is the Anchor-wharf, and the Jetties, at the entrance of the Camber. Near this, on the margin, is the Vessel employed in taking up and fixing the mooring-chains in the harbour. The Jetties are immense platforms supported upon piles driven deep into the soil and mud, and united and kept in their position by joints and braces. They project from the harbour-wall to a greater or less distance, so that vessels of every size may be brought within floating distance of the shore, and receive their ballast and stores without the interposition of boats or rafts. DEVONPORT.— THE TOWN-HALL, COLUMN, AND LIBRARY. Devonport, which has been already noticed in the account of Plymouth, under its original name, Plymouth Dock, is situated on a pleasant eminence, between Stone-house Creek on the east, and the Hamoaze, or estuary of the river Tamar, on the west. This town, (together with the Dock- Yard, Gun-Wharf, Military Hospital, and other buildings, the village of Stoke, and Morice-town,) is comprehended within the manor and parish of Stoke-Damarell, or Damerell ; which manor includes above 1600 acres of land, the whole, except the glebe, the two bartons, or estates, of Swilly and Ford, and the ground that has been purchased by Government for fortifications and other purposes, being the property of Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart., who derived it from his great-uncle. Sir William Morice. The latter was a descendant from Sir William Morice, secretary of state tO' Charles the Second, whom Clarendon mentions as having been instrumental in promoting the Revolution, and by whom Stoke-Damarell and its appendages were purchased of Sir William Wise, for about £11,000. Scarcely a single dwelling occupied the site of Devonport at the commencement of the last century, yet it has now become an extensive and populous town ; and although environed by fortifications, (chiefly of modern construction,) has many points from which delightful prospects are obtained of the surrounding picturesque scenery. The streets, which are built with much regularity, and most of which intersect each other at right angles, are literally paved with marble, (quarried on the manor,) and this being of the variegated kind, and having acquired a considerable polish from the constant tread of passengers, has a beautiful appearance after heavy showers. Since the commencement of the present century, a very laudable spirit of rivalry has sprung up between Devonport and Plymouth, in respect to the architectural character of their public buildings ; — and those at Devonport, represented in the accompanying View, must be acknowledged a most interesting group, as well as a singular one, there being not less than three different styles of architecture exhibited in the structures 3vhich compose it.. irt[: ^^•pi>^2|^i^-^(**-''^*f*v;;v*i. DEVONSHIRE. 31 These edifices form a noble termination to the western extremity of Ker-street, and from being situated on an ascent fronting the principal entrance to the town from Ply- mouth, have a very grand and effective appearance from that approach. The Town-Hall was designed from the Parthenon, at Athens, by Mr. John Foulston, whose eminent talents as an architect, have already been noticed in the account of the Theatre and Athenaeum at Plymouth : the builder was Mr. J. L. Rickard. This edifice was commenced in 1821, and completed in the following year, at an expense of £2902, (exclusive of internal fittings,) which was raised by subscriptions, in shares ; — and the shares are now in a course of being paid off by a sinking fund. The portico exliibits four columns of the Grecian Doric order, each twenty-seven feet six inches in height, and five feet six inches in diameter. Within its recess is a flight of six steps, leading to the Hall itself, which is seventy-five feet long, forty feet wide, and thirty-one feet high : it is finished by a handsome cornice, and provided with suitable benches, &c., for the magistrates, all which can be removed when the room is required for any large public meeting. Several smaller apartments, for official and parochial business, are included in this building ; and there are also cells for prisoners, from which there is a communication with the bar, by means of a stair-case and trap-door. After the sanction of his present Majesty, George the Fourth, had been obtained for changing the name of Plymouth-Dock into Devowport, the civil authorities and the inhabitants of this town formed a triumphal procession, and, on the 1st of January, 1824, with much rejoicing, proclaimed its new appellation in the most public places. A general subscription was also entered into, to signalize the change by the erection of a commemorative Column, to be surmounted by a colossal statue of the King. Hence the origin of this noble pillar : — in the design of which, the classic abilities and good taste of Mr. Foulston were again displayed, and the professional skill, as a builder, of Mr. Rickard, was again exercised. The contract for erecting it amounted to £2/50, exclusive of the charge made by the architect. This Column stands upon a solid rock, twenty-two feet above the pavement ; which height is ascended by a handsome flight of steps, enclosed by parapets of wrought marble ashler-work, and communicating with an arched gate-way, of similar materials, that opens to the terrace surrounding the base. Including the plinths and foundation-rock, the entire elevation of the Column from the street to the top of the pedestal, whereon the figure is to stand, is 125 feet. On the upper plinth, which is nine feet high, are panels for inscriptions ; the height of the lower plinth is nineteen feet. The whole is constructed of granite, of a very superior quality. Within the shaft, which is fluted, and of the Grecian Doric order, is a spiral stair-case leading to a balcony on the summit of the capital. This is surrounded by an elegant iron railing, and it commands a suc- cession of the finest prospects that the country can boast. " The hills, vales, fields, woods, and waters, from Hengeston Down in the north, to the Ocean in the south, — from the wilds of Dartmoor in the east, to the billowy eminences of Cornwall, in the west, — 32 DEVONSHIRE. Ke before the gaze in a beautiful and varied panorama; while the eye looks on Devonport, and its immediate vicinity, as on a map."* On the right of the print is shewn an edifice, in the Egj-ptian style of architecture, which is now used as the Devonport Library, but was originally designed as the Devon- port and Stone-house Mathematical School. That establishment, however, having been broken up, the premises were purchased for a Public Library, for which purpose they are admirably calculated. Here again, the united talents of Mr. Foulston and Mr. Rickard have been successfully exerted, although on a smaller scale, the buikling having been erected by them in 1823, at the cost of about £1500. " Much judgment," observes Mr Rowe, " has been displayed by the architect, in combining the massive parts appropriate to this style with the greatest effect, — and when the design was shewn to Monsieur Deuon, he expressed great pleasure, and signified that it was the best attempt to appro- priate Egyptian architecture to domestic purposes, that had ever come under his notice,"t A Public Library has been long a desideratum in this populous and improv- ing town, and there now appears a satisfactory prospect of its being effectually sup- plied. At present, the collection of books is not extensive, but the managing Com- mittee have most judiciously appropriated their funds to the purchase of works of real value, and standard character ; — studiously excluding all productions of mere ephemeral interest, with which the shelves of public libraries are too often filled, to the exclu- sion of worth and excellence. Between the last-mentioned edifice and the Column, is Mount Zion Chapel, which is partially shewn in the engraving now under review. Mr. Rowe gives the following description of the exterior of this building : — " It is designed by Mr. Foulston, after the Hindoo style, with the ornaments and accompaniments appropriate to that fantastic manner, but of massive and bold proportions. These are so judiciously arranged, that the whole front presents a highly-effective and pleasing appearance ; and the build- ing, though placed in juxta-position with the fine portico of the Town-Hall, maintains its rank, Mid seems to suffer nothing from a contrast, which would be destructive to many buildings, in which bold and picturesque effects had been less the objects of the architect's attention." t This Chapel was commenced in November, 1823, and finished ;n July, 1824, at a cost of about £2000. POWDERHAM CASTLE, DEVONSHIRE. PowDERHAM Castlk, the principal seat of the noble family of Courtenay, is delight- fiilly situated near the banks of the river Exe, within four miles of its confluence with the British Channel. Leland describes it as a strong fortress, "with a barbican, or • Vide Carrington's " Plymouth and Devonport Guide," — p. 6. t RoTi-e'a " Panorama of Plymouth," — p. 206, to which Work, and to tht author's manuscript communications, tliis article is much indebted. X Ibid. p. 190. DE Autifiil aod varied panoramn; vf'> ity, as oo a map."* At pf. have most jadiciously appropriated their funds to the purchase of workii of real dacd diaraci *° Kdodia^ aU prtKhM^ioiu < ' orkjfib Ttv« ^ ibnoira itit> too qA«« fiK V, 1^4, at a cost of about £2OU0. :ttjt'.il^\jyi V,X3.' MCjiStlMy ti. L£\:ifni\- ouuiuKn}!' ?OWlD)]!!]RHAM-(CiLS'n.K, DEVOHSHmiS . " OF VTSCOUKT COTntTXH/Or. TO ^KBQM UflS JSJLTX IS 'TOTU OSRAl' HESFECT UiXtTCAUCD. 3T 77IE jmaUSSEIlS- i .HarUea rm siLrr of sm. 2Ln.jkCLAifji, b^kt. tg wsai£ tsjs j'la'/x is afffk-r-' v^rv jxschissjj. DEVONSHIRE. 33 bulwark, to beate the haven;" yet although, in some degree it retains a castellated appearance, its warlike characteristics have chiefly given place to the more domestic appendages and arrangements of modern times. It was most probably founded by Wil- liam de Ou, or Ow, one of the knights who accompanied William the Conqueror to England, and had Powderham for his reward ; but who, in the reign of William Rufus, being detected in a conspiracy against the king, and defeated by his accuser, in a public duel at Salisbury, was deprived both of his possessions and his sight. Afterwards, this manor belonged, during several descents, to a family to whom it gave name ; but on the attainder of John de Powderham, it became the property of Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, by whom it was given in marriage, with his daughter Margaret, to Hugh de Courtenay, Earl of Devon. That nobleman, about the year 1350, settled it on his fifth and younger son. Sir Philip Courtenay, the direct progenitor of the present Lord Viscount Courtenay, who during many years has resided on the Continent. He is the six- teenth in descent from Sir Philip, and the twenty-fifth from Otho, or Atho, a French knight, from whom this family derives its origin, and by whom the castle of Courtenay, (in the district of Gatinois, nearly sixty miles south of Paris,) was erected about the middle of the tenth century. " Ubi lapsus? Quid feci?" is the plaintive motto of this house. / Gibbon supposes it was adopted by the Powderham branch, after the loss of the Earldom of Devonshire, &c. and in allusion to the despoiled fortunes of the family. Powderham Castle was twice garrisoned for King Charles the First during the civil wars, and twice taken by the Parliamentarians : the last time was in March 1646, when it was surrendered, with eighteen pieces of ordnance, to Sir Hardress Waller. Until the year 1752, it retained a considerable portion of its ancient castle-like form, and it had then a quadrangular court in front, with embattled walls, and a tower gate-way at the entrance ; but it has since undergone numerous alterations. Before the expatriation of the present Viscount, this Mansion was most sumptuously fitted up and furnished, and several fine paintings (including the Tribute Money, by Rubens) were among its orna- ments ; but both the furniture and pictures were afterwards removed, and neglect and dilapidation usurped the place of former splendour. The pleasure-gardens, park, and plantations, extend through a circumference of nearly ten miles, and are diversified by some bold swells, commanding extensive prospects. On the highest ground stands the Belvidere, which was erected in 1773, by the late Lord Courtenay, and is of a triangular form, with an hexagonal tower at each angle. From this edifice a rich succession of interesting views is obtained over the surrounding country, — including the town of Topsham, with its busy shipping; the river Exe, with its windings from Exeter to the Sea ; Nutwell Court, the splendid seat of Sir Thos. T. F. E. Drake, Bart, and beyond it, the heiglits of Woodbury Hill; the pleasant village of Lympstone ; the town and port of Exmouth; the distant hills of Dartmoor ; the beautiful tract between Haldon Hill and the river Exe ; and the city of Exeter, with its Cathedral, forming an apex to the grouped houses, above which it so boldly towers. 1 34 DEVONSHIRE. KILLERTON PARK, DEVONSHIRE. KiLLBRTON Park, the seat of Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart, one of the Members of Parliament for the county of Devon, is situated in the manor of Broad Clist, or Clyst, about five miles north-eastward of Exeter, on the road to CoUumpton. Prior to the Norman inva- sion, that manor belonged to Ordulf, Earl of Devon, but was vested in the crown at the period of the Domesday Survey. Henry the First granted it to the Novants, by whose last heir male. Sir Roger Novant, it was conveyed, in 1343, to John de Chudleigh, and his descendant, of the same name, alienated the manor to Sir Matthew Arundell, about the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign. It afterwards became the property of the Morices, and in the year 1808 was purchased by the late Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, of Mrs. Leviua Luther, and her sister. Miss Elizabeth Bull, the devisees of the Right Hon. Humphrey Morice, who died in 1784. It appears from the Hundred Rolls of Edward the First's reign, that the lord of this manor had formerly the power of life and death. The original seat of the Aclands in this parish, was at Columbjohn, (now a part of Killerton,) which was purchased in the reign of Queen Elizabeth by Sir John Acland, who erected a new mansion there, on a foundation which is said to have been begun by the Courtenays, Earls of Devon. His nephew. Sir Arthur, enlarged the estate by uniting it with Killerton, which he bought of the Drew family ; and Sir Arthur's son. Sir John Acland, garrisoned Columbjohn for King Charles the First, at the commencement of the civil wars, for which, and other loyal services, he was created a baronet in 1644. The mansion has been since pulled down j but an ancient chapel, and a fine old gateway, yet remain, to denote its former site. The house at Killerton was originally built as a temporary residence, by Sir Thomas Acland, Bart, who married the heiress oi Dyke, of Somersetshire, (hence the union of the family names,) and died in 1788. Considerable additions have, however, been since made, particularly by the present much-respected owner, whose improvements have given aa extension and comfort to the interior, which the contracted size and simplicity of the front by no means indicate. From the Hall, which is continued to the depth of the house, and set off in circular-headed compartments, the rooms on the ground floor open right and left : the spaces over the door-ways are occupied with portraits by Sir Peter Lely, and other artists. The breakfast-room is ornamented with some small paintings by Nasrayth, and many beautiful drawings by Nicholson, Williams, of Edinburgh, Varley, Barrett, and Havell. In the adjoining dining-room, which is spacious and well-proportioned, and in part decorated with scagliola Ionic columns, are portraits by Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, &c., and a very fine modern picture of the Archduke Charles, of Austria, in his military costume. "<< '(«! • •• ^^.l From the with-drawing room, which is splendidly fitted up and furnished, there is a beautiful look-out across a deep lawn, and over a mass of wood, to the brow of a bold (X /i/ THiE Miia-WEIuL RUCK^, ©M THK itHTES. TAMAK., SEVOH & COm,MWAjL,]L. . DEVONSHIRE. 35 hill, " the pride of Killerton, and ornament of this part of the country," In this apart- ment is an excellent full-length portrait of the present Sir Thomas D. Acland, by Owen, which was presented to him by his constituents, in testimony of their high sense of his Parliamentary services : this picture has been engraved by Reynolds, in mezzotinto. The Library, which opens from the with-drawing room by folding doors, includes a well-chosen selection of the best authors, and many illustrated works ; besides numerous drawings in folios, by various artists, chiefly from sketches by Sir Thomas, who has delineated the grand and varied scenery of Italy and Switzerland with a masterly pencil. Here also are some fine portraits by Vandyke, Sir Peter Lely, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and others ; together with a very beautiful painting, by the late Sir Thomas Lawrence, of Lady Acland, and two of her sons, which has been recently engraved in mezzotinto, by Cousins.* From this apartment there is a secret entrance into a private library and sitting-room, through a book- case ; the sham books in which case, or door- way, have on them very ingeniously -devised titles, as may be evinced by a few, namely ; " Playfair on the late Formation of Trap" — "Trap on Fictitious Entries" — "Friend's Right of Entrance" — " Continuation of Cham- bers" — " Pasquin at Home" — "Treatise on the Law of Partitions" — "Pleas in Vindica- tion of Solitary Cells, by a Bachelor of the Inner Temple" — " Millington on Covered Ways"—" Noah's Log-Book," and " Snug's the Word, by a Clerk of the Closet." The titles near the hinges are alike appropriate, but more quaint, viz. : " Squeak on Opening" — "Bang on Shuttings" — and "Hinge's Orations." The surrounding grounds possess much beauty : from the flower-garden there is a terrace-walk leading to the plantations, and to the fine woods crowning the eminence already mentioned, the summit of which commands a fine panoramic prospect over a great extent of highly-cultivated and varied landscape scenery. THE MORWELL ROCKS ON THE RIVER TAMAR. " Devonia lifts Her rocks sublimely." " Amid this region of enchantment stands A pile stupendous, rising from the flood Abruptly; and though Nature round its base Has flung her leafage, yet its sides are scath'd, And verdureless, and shiver'd." Canington's " Banks qf Tamar.'' The River Tamar rises in a moor near Moorwinstow, the most northerly district in Cornwall, and flowing in a south-easterly direction, becomes for many miles the chief boundary between that county and Devonshire. This is one of the most considerable rivers in the west of England, and independently of its wide-spreading estuary, the * Cousins is a Devonshire artist, and was a proUgi of Sir Thomas's : his abilities as a mezzotinto engraver are well known, from those chtf d'leuvres of graphic art, Master Lambton and Miss Croker. 36 DEVONSHIRE. Hamoaze, where the British navy lies moored in " stem repose," it presents some of the finest prospects that the eye can wander over. Its banks are richly diversified with rocksj woods, and meadows ; and the scenery, in various parts of its course, is extremely picturesque. During the summer season its variegated shores become the frequent theme of pleasurable contemplation to the admirers of natural beauty, who form parties to sail up the river, from Devonport to the Weir Head, a distance (including its windings) of about twenty-two miles, — taking care, in these delightful excursions, to ascend with the tide, which gives much interest to the scenery. ■ By breezy hills, And soft retiring dales, by smiling lawns, Bold headlands dark with umbrage of the groves, By towns, and villages, and mansions fair. And rocks magnificent, the potent rush Of the mysterious Ocean has impell'd Our bark to-day." The voyager along the Tamar cannot fail to have his admiration awakened by the striking contrast presented between the eastern and western banks of the river; and particularly at the point delineated in the annexed Engraving. On the western side, he beholds the meadows, pastures, and orchard grounds of Calstock, smiling in verdure and luxuriance ; whilst, on the eastern banks, he views a steep ridge, partially clothed with dark hanging woods, and interspersed with frowning crags, which r'se in massive grandeur from the river's brink to a considerable height above the water. Among these abrupt eminences, the Morwell Rocks are the most celebrated. Viewed from below, this scene must excite, in the least susceptible heart, emotions of admiration and awe ; but to enjoy the surrounding prospect in its greatest perfection, the heights must be visited by crossing the common, above the river. After leaving the down, a narrow track conducts through a tangled copse to the summit of the cliffs. By thus approaching the loftiest point, unconscious of the elevation above the stream, we are altogether unprepared for the scene of beauty and sublimity which bursts upon the sight, on emerging from the copse. We gaze down upon the river with trembling delight, and hardly feel secure on the aiiy stand to which we seem to have been transported, as though by an invisible jjower. The entire prospect, including Calstock Church, Hengeston Down, the mining district of Gunnis Lake, and the reaches and sinuosities of the stream, is singularly impressive. Polwhele remarks, that, in the opinion of travellers, this scene is not equalled in Europe; and though there is much hyperbolism in that compliment, we must acknowledge, that the attempt is vain to do justice to its beauties by description. To be duly appreciated, they must be seen, and studied : — b\it " We haste To moor our skiff awhile, where on the ear Delighted, falls the music of the Weir !" DEVONSHIRE. 37 THE WEIR HEAD OF THE RIVER TAMAR. " And hark ! — Upon the eddying breeze of Eve The rush Bonorous comes. Now sweep we round The point of that green island, — there, disclosed At length, in graceful curve the River pours, From bank to bank, the liquid volumes down." Carrvtgton'a " Banks of the Tamar." At a short distance from the Morwell Cliffs is the Weir Hkad, which is formed by an artificial ledge of rocks, over which the pellucid waters of the Tamar fall in a rapid and sparkling cascade. This scene, which is always pleasing, derives additional interest after the descent of heavy rains in the upland country ; or when the wintry torrents of the Tamar have been swelled by the rushing currents of its tributary streams. On the right, the landscape above the Weir consists of high grounds and jutting masses of rock, interspersed with forest trees ; and on the left, of a gradual ascent to the elevated down of Hengeston. The navigable portion of the Tamar terminates at the Weir Head ; but about twenty-four or twenty-five years ago, a canal was formed, by which, for commercial purposes, the communication was continued to the upper part of the river. The rich combination of picturesque and romantic scenery that distinguishes the Weir will be readily appreciated from the annexed View. No admirer of nature can visit the spot without those feelings of delight and admiration which the intermingled beauties of wood, water, and rock, sparkling in variety of tints, " with the changeful hues of the ever shifting clouds," must necessarily inspire. MOUNT EDGCUMBE. Forming a conspicuous object from a considerable distance in every direction around. Mount Edgcumbe at once adorns and dignifies the neighbourhood of Plymouth. This estate occupies an area of about three miles in circumference, and includes the entire peninsula between the Hamoaze and the Sound. Its grounds, which are laid out in a most pleasing and diversified manner, rise on the east in precipitous acclivities from the rocky shore, but those parts which stretch along the verge of the Hamoaze and of Millbrook- Lake on the west, slope to the water with a gentler inclination. Throughout the whole demesne an agreeable alternation of lawn, grove, and garden scenery, gratifies and relieves the eye, yet the prevailing character is of a richly-varied woodland order. The general impression which an examination of its beauties leaves on the mind, is that of a magni- ficent Italian landscape, with its thick umbrageous woods rising proudly above each other, " in gay theatric pride." K 38 DEVONSHIRE. To conduct the reader in description through only tlie principal scenes of this delightful demesne, would far exceed our widest limits; we must content ourselves, there- fore, with little more than a succinct enumeration of its chief features. The Mansion itself, which is situated on a sort of artificial terrace of earth, raised on the side of a beautifully-wooded hill declining gently to the Harbour, is an object of inferior attraction among the natural beauties of Mount Edgcumbe. Though in the castellated style, and of the Tudor age, it having been erected about the year 1550, its exterior architecture is deficient in interest. Its plan is nearly square, and originally it had a round tower at each angle, but those towers were pulled down about seventy years ago, and others were erected of an octagonal form, and of greater extent. The Hall, in the centre of the build- _^ ing, rises to the height of the second story, and is adorned with Doric columns and pilasters of Devonshire marble, surmounted by entablatures of the Ionic order. At each end of the Hall is a gallery, in one of which is an excellent organ. The chimney-pieces, tables, and termini supporting busts, are of different varieties of Cornish granite, highly polished. Among the portraits which decorate this Mansion, is a curious one of Margaret Edgcumbe, maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth, who married Sir Edward Denny, groom of her Majesty's privy chamber. She appears in mourning weeds, and was thus represented, as an inscription informs us, " in the 68th year of her age, and the 48th of her widowhood." Among other family portraits are four by Sir Peter Lely, viz. the first Earl of Sandwich, who was blown up in the action at Sole-bay ; the Countess of Sand- wich, his wife; their daughter. Lady Anne; and her husband, Sir Richard Edgcumbe, K. B. ; — and the same number by Sir Joshua Reynolds, including George, the first Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and Emma, his Countess. Here, also, are full-lengths of Charles II., James II., William III., and Prince Rupert; together with finely-executed heads of Charles I., and his illegitimate grandson, the Duke of Monmouth. The northern windows command a noble vista, irregularly bounded by trees of various species, extend- ing to the water's edge. Of the additions which have been made to this edifice, that of a modern wing, containing a Library well stored with books, and other rooms, is not the least important. The principal apartments are within the octagon-towers. The pleasure grounds, or gardens, which skirt the Harbour, are laid out in the respective styles of the English, French, and Italian horticulturalists : — the latter, enriched with a noble Conservatory, statues, urns, and fountains, displaying studied elegance and artificial decoration ; — the former depending for its attractions, less upon the formal assistance of art, than on the bounties of nature ; whilst the French garden exhibits a specimen of that mixture of both which is exemplified in clipped evergreen hedges, bowers, trellis-work, and parterres. The Italian garden is chiefly characterized by its long avenues of odoriferous orange-trees, which, in winter, are removed for protection into the Conservatory : this is a lofty edifice, 100 feet in length, having a Doric front, which was designed by the late Lord Camelford. Besides the orange-trees, several of which are of unusual size and beauty, this garden contains a fine assemblage of exotics. In the French DEVONSHIRE. 39 garden is an elegant octagonal room, opening into Conservatories : at the back of this apartment, a pleasing illusion is created by the removal of a picture ; — a small antique statue of Meleager is then discovered, behind which is a mirror, that reflects most of the various objects within the garden. In this division, opposite to a very beautiful magnolia tree, is a votive urn and tablet, inscribed in memory of Sophia, late Countess of Mount Edgcumbe, who died in 1806, and to whose genius these grounds owe many of their improvements. The Inscription, from its elegant simplicity, merits to be recorded ; it is as follows : — TO THE MEMORY OF HER WHOSE TASTE EMBELLISHED, WHOSE PRESENCE ADDED CHARMS TO THESE RETREATS, HERSELF THE BRIGHTEST ORNAMENT, THIS URN IS ERECTED, IN THE SPOT SHE LOVED. Within the English garden, which is of much greater extent than either of those described, are many majestic and beautiful trees, including several magnolias, Liba- nian and Virginian cedars, and some large cork trees. Here, likewise, is a neat pavilion of the Doric order, containing a bath, the marble basin of which is supplied with hot and cold water from the mouths of two bronze dolphins. The walk leading from the English garden towards the Blockhouse, descends into a deep excavation, or quarry, which, from being embosomed amidst lofty evergreens, over- spread with parasitical plants, and scattered about with antique urns, sarcophagi, and other funereal vestiges, assumes the character of an ancient Cemetery : — at one extremity, to increase the interest from association, amidst a heap of architectural fragments, lies a fine capital of the Corinthian order, brought from the ruins of Alexandria. Near this spot, on the margin of Barn-pool, is the Blockhouse, now partly in ruins, and pictu- resquely overgrown with ivy. This, with a similar fort at Devil's Point, the opposite promontory, was erected for the defence of the Harbour, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and is thus noticed in Carew's Survey of Cornwall : — " Both sides of the narrow entrance into the Hamoaze are fenced with Blockhouses ; and that next Mount Edgcumbe was wont to be planted with ordnance, which, at coming and parting, with their base voices greeted such guests as visited the house." The battery in front, after long neglect, was restored in 1747? and in 1800 was remounted with twenty-one French eight-pounders, all purchased from prizes. The views from this spot comprehend the whole of Barn-pool, St. Nicholas' Island, Plymouth, the Breakwater and Sound, Mount Batten, Staddon Heights, the Mewstone, &c., together with several striking portions of the home scenery. 40 DEVONSHIRE. The Amphitheatre is a noble assemblage of indigenous and exotic trees, rising with symmetrical curvature, rank above rank, to a great height, and displaying an almost endless variety of form and foliage. Among the exotics are some beautiful tulip trees, a majestic cedar of Libanus, a Carolina poplar of extraordinary tallness, and several vast plane trees, " presenting a striking immensity of bough and branch." On the skirt of the wrood, near the beach, is a neat Rotunda of Ionic design, within which is a bust of Milton, and the subjoined Inscription, from his " Paradise Lost," in apposite allusion to the umbrageous mantling of the contiguous acclivity :— " Over-head up grew Insuperable height of loftiest shade. Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, A sylvan scene ; and as the ranks ascend Shade above shade, a woody theatre Of stateliest view." The charming scenery of Mount Edgcumbe has frequently inspired the poet's muse ; and the following stanzas in reference to the preceding features, have been extracted from Howe's " Panorama." " And well, O Miltom, is thy honour'd Bust Placed the deep twilight of these woods among, — For though far off enshrin'd the Poet's dust. Here lingers still the spirit of his song ; And oft at eve, these high arcades among, To fancy's dreaming eye his form will glide, While even the depth of stillness finds a tongue. And sounds unearthly float upon the tide, '' Or in faint murmurs die along the dark hill-side." Our further description must be brief, and we can barely notice many scenes which the visitant will inspect with much pleasure. The Gothic ruin on the slope of a bold eminence, and the cottage near the cliff, with its overhanging evergreen oaks, and its neat garden plot, teeming with shrubs and flowers, are the next objects of interest ; from both, agreeable views are obtained, but those from the former are the most extensive, and have a panoramic character. The southern side of the hill, towards the sea, is an abrupt rocky cliff, planted with almost every kind of evergreen tree and shrub ; among which, the arbutus, the laurustinus, the Portugal laurel, and the myrtle, thrive with great luxuriance, and grow to an extraordinary size. Midway up the hill, through the middle of these plantations, extends the Great Terrace ; and walks, cut in zig-zag directions, have been carried thence upwards towards Redding Point, and downwards to the very brink of the precipitous cliff that breasts the surge. These walks conduct to numerous points of view, affording an extraordinary variety of wild and romantic scenery, which, from the profusion of ever- DEVONSHIRE. 41 greens flourishing throughout the winter, is truly beautiful at all seasons of the year. The New, or Upper Zig-zag, commands the more extensive prospects ; and the shrubs in this part, from being further removed from the effects of the spray, attain a higher degree of luxuriance and verdure than those of the Lower Zig-zags. These walks are continued beyond the point to Pickle-combe, and thence onward to Hoe Lake. Within the former, which is a little secluded valley, regularly disposed by nature in a semi- circular form, are the imitative ruins of an ancient gothic chapel, picturesquely mantled with ivy ; — and at the extremity of a winding dell, forming the Hoe Lake valley, beneath a tuft of trees, is a keeper's lodge, wherein is a room fitted up with deer-skin couches, horns, &c., and containing a small collection of stuffed birds. At this part, there is a deep ravine, which forms the western boundary of the Park ; but on leaving the valley, and pursuing the path that sweeps along the southern side of the hill, to its eastern extremity, at Sedding Point, the spectator attains a magnificent prospect of the sea, from the cliffs below, to the distant horizon. In front, is that "mighty isthmus," the Break- water ; and in clear weather, at a great distance in the ofiing, the Eddystone Lighthouse is discernible : among the intervening objects, are Cawsand bay and town, Penlee point, the Mewstone, and Wembury cliffs. The Park views are enlivened by numerous herds of fine deer, and the surrounding waters disclose an ever-changing variety of interesting scenes, to the wanderer through , the long-drawn avenues and devious windings of these extensive groimds. From the loftier points of the Park, and especially in the neighbourhood of Maker Church, at its western extremity, the more distant landscape presents a series of prospects of the most varied description. In front, are the towns of Devonport, Stonehouse, and Plymouth, with their increasing suburbs ; the dock-yard, new victualling office, citadel, St. Andrew's, Charles', 2ind Stoke churches, the fortifications on St. Nicholas' Island, &c. : on the right is Saltram, the Lary, Catwater, and Staddon heights ; and on the left, the Hamoaze, Saltash, and the western banks of the Tamar. The horizon is bounded by a lofty range of mountains, among which Hengeston Down, Brent Tor, and the rugged hills of Dartmoor are eminently conspicuous. The far-famed beauties of Mount Edgcumbe have elicited the admiration of the most illustrious personages, both of our own nation and of foreign courts. Every class, indeed, of visitants has been alike lavish in praise of the many interesting objects congregated around and upon this spot, — of which we conclude our descriptive sketch, by the whim- sical eulogium vrritten by Garrick : — " This Moant all the mounts of Great Britain surpasses, 'Tis the haunt of the Muses, the mount of Parnassus ! Fame lies, — 'tw£i8 not Stratford — this, this is the spot, Where Genius on Nature our Shakspeare begot ; — This only the birth-place of Shakspeare could be, Whose wonders can e'en make a Poet of me I" 42 DEVONSHIRE. KITLEY HOUSE, NEAR YEALMTON. " And DeTon owes to thee, prolific Moor, The rapid Erme. " Thine, too, the Yealni, Pride of our austral vales : — And sweet it is, from Puslinch' breezy mount. To eye him winding slowly through the meads. Where smiles the village, or where Kitley rears Its noble groves. Carrington's Dartmoor." Kitley House, the delightful residence of Edmund Pollexfen Bastard, Esq. (one of the parliamentary representatives for this county),* is situated on a peninsular tract of land, formed by the estuary of the river Yealm, about seven miles south-eastward from Plymouth. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, this estate was possessed by the Pollexfens, but in consequence of the marriage of their heiress into the Bastard family, it became the property of the latter about the year I7IO. William Bastard, Esq. grandson of the heiress of Pollexfen, and grandfather of the present owner of Kitley, was created a baronet in August, 1779, (when the combined fleet appeared off Plymouth,) for his public spirit and promptitude in raising 500 men within four days, as a corps of fencibles, to resist invasion. This honour was both conferred and gazetted, without Mr. Bastard's knowledge ; but on its being announced to him in a letter from Earl Paulet, he modestly declined the intended title. The Bastards derive their descent from a Norman ancestor, •who obtained extensive grants of land in this county, in the time of William the Conqueror. Kitley House underwent a complete repair, or rather renovation, a few years ago, under the direction of G. S. Repton, Esq. from whose tasteful combination of designs, it now assumes the character of a picturesque Mansion of the Elizabethan age. Nearly the whole exterior was rebuilt with Devonshire marble, and many of the rooms are entirely new ; but the grand staircase, which has a double ascent, producing a fine effect, was preserved. The principal entrance, which is in the eastern front, opens into a spacious hall, wainscotted, and ornamented with tinted and emblazoned windows. Great elegance is displayed in the internal decorations, and the library, and withdrawing-room, which are eti suite, are adorned with scagliola columns, in imitation of yellow marble. Among the pictures in this Mansion are some of the most valuable works of Sir Joshua Reynolds, as well as others by the old masters of foreign schools. The grounds and plantations are judiciously laid out; and from various points, views are obtained of a diversity of rich scenery, including the estuary of the Yealm, with the uplands of Wembury and Revel- stoke, near the sea. A small stream flows through the grounds, and, in one part, there is a- limestone cavern of considerable extent. * He was chosen to succeed his late uncle John Pollexfen Bastard, Esq. who had been a member for the county of Devon during a period of thirty-seven years, in seven successive parliaments. rar SEAT Of EfiiTJNV JVIim[fSN' BASTARD. SSC.M.F TV HSroif ZSTS iOTF IS S£SSCTFUIIX msCBIBED. SY TBE . DEVONSHIRE. - 43 FREEMASONS' HALL, PLYMOUTH. This building, which was erected by subscription, from the eligible designs of Mr. J. E. Adams, of Plymouth, architect, is situated on a commanding spot at one end of Cornwall-street. The foundation-stone was laid in the beginning of 182/, and the edifice was completed about the close of that year, at a cost of £2,500. The resident Lodges of Fortitude, No. I7O, and Friendship, No. 339, contributed largely towards its erection; and, pn the 19th of April, 1828, in the Mastership of W. P. Baldy, M.D. of the Lodge of Fortitude, it was formally dedicated to the Order by the Right Honourable Lcrd Viscount Ebrington, P.G.M., assisted by the officers of his lodge, and attended by the masters and wardens of several lodges in his Lordship's province, as well as by many distinguished Brethren of the neighbourhood. The principal object of this edifice was, as the name imports, for the accommodation of the craft, and establishing its local respectability on a more permanent basis than heretofore ; but the shareholders, taking into consideration its contiguity to the Market- place, and the consequent great thoroughfare of Cornwall-street, conceived, that, without suffering any diminution of character, in a masonic point of view, it might be rendered available for other purposes ; and particularly for the assembly of public bodies, or of private individuals requiring select audiences, where extent of room might be combined with appropriate accommodations. These considerations materially influenced the designs of the architect, through whose judicious arrangements the most sanguine wishes of the shareholders, on this head, have been realized ; various public and private bodies having already selected this Hall as their place of meeting, and upwards of five hundred persons have been assembled within it at one time. The architecture of this building is appropriate ; its exterior is handsome, its interior commodious : it is constructed of stone, covered with a durable cement. In front, as represented in the annexed Engraving, is a central door-way, with two large windows on each side : the upper story exhibits a series of six pilasters, with a window in each intercolumniation, supporting an entablature, &c. ornamented with wreaths. On the right of the lobby is a spacious room, measuring 28 feet 8 inches, by 20 feet 2 inches, used as an auction-mart ; and on the left, is a large commercial and house-agency office, (connected with the mart,) and a smaller apartment, appropriated to the exhibition of jewellery, and other articles of value, intended for public sale: adjoining to the latter is a neat and compact room, set apart for surveys of freehold and landed property, or adapted, on public occasions, for any other required purpose. The Hall itself is in the form of a parallelogram, 47 feet 4 inches in length, and 28 feet 8 inches in breadth. The grand entrance, which is approached by a flight of steps and a vestibule, opens by folding-doors, nine feet high, and six feet wide : there are also two private entrances ; one at the eastern end, through an ante-chamber, or preparing- 44 DEVONSHIRE. room, (occupied by the Lodge on ordinary business,) and adjoining lobby, and another through the paraphernalia closet, at the western end. On the south side are five lofty windows j in the compartments between which, when the plastering becomes sufl&ciently firm to ensure durability to the productions of the pencil, allegorical representations are to be delineated in fresco, by artists of celebrity : appropriate pictorial designs are likewise intended for the ceiling, which is arched, and for other parts of the room. On evenings, this apf.rtment is illumined by two beautifully-executed bronze chandeliers supplied with gas. On the south side, over the front entrance, is a lightly-constructed organ loft, supported by slender cast-iron pillars, and containing a full and fine-toned organ : an ornamental cast-iron screen, with gilt masonic emblems, encloses the whole. The upper story includes several small and convenient apartments used as store-rooms and bed-chambers, by the family residing on the premises, to whose care the entire building is entrusted. The Gateway shewn in the print opens into the new Market-place, which occupies about three acres of ground, and was first appropriated to its present purpose in the year 1804. Within this space are the corn, fish, poultry, butter, and green markets, the butchery, and numerous stalls for earthen-ware, hard- ware, &c.; the cattle market is without, on the eastern side. Two fairs, the first in April, the last, called the Great Market, in November, are held here annually. At those times, there are standings for confectioners, clothiers, and other dealers; and part of the area is occupied by caravans of wild beasts, and other itinerant exhibitions. For the great advantage of this market, Plymouth is principally indebted to the exem- plary exertions of Edmund Lockyer, Esq. who has been three times chief magistrate, and who obtained funds for defraying the expense by means of a tontine devised by himself. The subscribers to the fund were arranged in classes of twenty each, according to their ages, and five per cent, per annum, was secured to them by bonds of the corporation, with benefit of survivorship, so that the last person of each class will be paid an annuity of £100. Many subscribers are now receiving full six per cent, yearly; and the income accruing to the corporation, for the rent of stalls, tolls for goods, &c. has increased, since the erection of the new market, from scarcely £800 to upwards of £2000 per annum. The mayor of Plymouth is always clerk of the market. We take this opportunity of stating a few additional particulars respecting the Royal Theatre and Hotel, and the Athenceum, accounts of which have been inserted in a preceding part of this work. We do this, not only in justice to Mr. Lockyer, but also from a strong hope that the very praiseworthy and patriotic conduct of that gentleman may operate both as a stimulus and an example to all persons who are ambitious to effect improvement in other towns throughout England. The idea of that combination of building, by which the Royal Hotel and Theatre were united in the same pile, and the inner arrangements so contrived as to give access and free passage from the former to the ball-room, and thence to the theatre, without going into ORaSTOH, ft THS CAT-WATBIt, KEAJR. PLTKOHTE. Al'.om. yiREEMASaifS'-flALl., ?LTMOmrE. Davies. DEVONSHIRE. 45 the street, was solely that of Mr. Lockyer, and the scheme of raising the money requisite for the undertaking, by tontine, on a plan similar to that by which he had secured the erection of the new Market-place, was entirely his own. Nor were his trouble and exertions wanting, to give due effect to the plans which he had thus devised. In regard to the Athenaeum, it should have been stated, that the ground on which the building stands was purchased and presented to the Institution by Mr. Lockyer. The noble present of casts from selections of the Elgin marbles, and other handsome donations to the Institution, were likewise obtained through his exertions and recommendations. He also considerably encouraged and promoted the erection and finishing of the north and east sides of Princess Square, the building called the Mechanic's Institute, and Sampson's beautiful Lycseum. ORESTON AND THE CA TWATER, NEAR PLYMOUTH. Oreston, a populous village in the parish of Plymstock, and on the verge of Catwater, has attained its present extent and celebrity in consequence of the opening of the Quarries which supply stone for the Breakwater, on the 7th of August, 1812, as already mentioned in our account of that stupendous work. The ground containing the quarries was pur- chased from the Duke of Bedford, to whom it had descended as parcel of the possessions of Tavistock Abbey. Here are the offices for the superintendent, conductors, and clerks of the establishment ; the workshops for smiths, masons, carpenters, &c. and the quays, railways, trucks, cranes, and other contrivances for expediting the raising and shipping of the immense blocks used for constructing the Breakwater. The Oreston quarries are worked in a limestone rock of the transition class, in which occasional caverns occur, wherein a great variety of fossil bones and teeth have been found ; including remains of several individuals belonging to a species of rhinoceros, in excellent preservation, as well as those of an extinct species of wolf, and of many other animals. The entire range of cliffs which extends from Stonehouse Pool, between Devonport and Plymouth, and thence along Catwater, ascending the right bank of the Plym, or Lara, as far as the bridge, together with Mount Batten, are formed of a compact limestone, which occurs in strata, rising north-north-west at an angle of about 65°, and is frequently tra- versed by veins of calcareous spar, of a wedge-like shape, and widest at bottom. This limestone takes a beautiful polish, and as the colour varies greatly, from that of a yellowish- white to a light blue, or grey, and again to much darker shades approaching to blackness, and is also occasionally highly variegated with different hues, — it is often used for chimney- pieces, slabs, and other ornaments. Catwater, which forms the embouchure of the river Plym, is an excellent road for the larger class of merchant ships ; and many hundred sail may now anchor in it with safety, it being defended from the violence of the south-westerly gales, and the rolling waves, by the peninsula of Mount Batten, and the Breakwater. It appears from Rowe's " Panorama," M 46 DEVONSHIRE. that " the property of this harbour is claimed by the corporation of Plymouth, as far as an imaginary boundary line drawn from the Bear's Head, at Catdown, to the Fish's Nose, at the Victualling-oflace Point ;" but, that the corporation of Saltash is entitled to certain dues collected from the shipping entering it. Vast quantities of limestone raised in the quarries at Catdown, Oreston, and Turn-chapel, are shipped at the various quays in this port for Cornwall, and other districts. ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH, PLYMOUTH. St. Andrew's Chttrch, which is a foundation of remote origin, is mentioned in a Survey of the Western Churches of the kingdom, made by order of Pope Nicholas in the year 1291. The general character of its architecture is that of the early English style, but the tower, which was erected at the expense of a merchant of Plymouth, named Yogge, about the year 1440, is more decorated, and its battlemented summit is finished with high pinnacles : it contains a peal of eight deep-toned bells; the weight of the tenor bell is two tons and a half. The church-yard has been planted with trees ; yet the situation is too closely confined by adjacent houses for the edifice to have its due effect. The Interior, which is divided by pointed arches springing from clustered columns, into a nave, chancel, transept, and side aisles, is very capacious, and has a singular and not unimposing aspect, from being coloured throughout in imitation of granite. This was done a few years ago, when the whole underwent a complete repair, and, so far as the internal fittings extended, was wholly renovated, under the direction of Mr. Foulston, whose skill and creative taste have already been noticed in the preceding pages. Nearly £5000 was expended on the work, and many improvements were made, both for the accommodation of the congregation, and to increase the general effect. The side gal- leries, which are sustained by arches of stone, were removed to the respective ends of the transept ; and a noble stair-case of teak wood, with a double flight of steps, was con- structed within the lower story of the tower, to communicate with the organ-loft and galleries of the charity schools, which are placed at the western extremity, and the space below which forms a large parochial vestry-room. The organ was built in the year 1737? and is of great power. Much elegance is displayed in the design and ornaments of the pulpit, reading-desk, &c. which, like the pews and sittings, are all of oak. At the east end is an elaborately-decorated altar-piece, which was the gift of a Mrs. Ilbert, in 1742, but being designed in the Roman style, and somewhat like a triumphal arch, it does not assimilate with the architectural character of the building. Among the sepulchral memorials in this edifice, is one of eminent merit by Chantry, in commemoration of Dr. William Woollcombe, a distinguished physician of this town, who died in May 1822, and lies buried at Plympton St. Mary: the principal group represents the Genius of Medicine supporting Indigence. In the north aisle is another monu- ment, on which Religion, personified by a female figure, rests upon a medallion bust of r. "Dixon IHTUltUOK. or ST. AMORKW'l CWaMJSa. TLTMOVTBL. \ TITTISTOOX. JRQSS TS3 ZiA'nr?C35STOH' ROA-B. «• -^- DEVONSHIRE. 47 the Rev. John Gandy, M.A. a Prebendary of Exeter, who died in August 1824, aged eighty-four years, during fifty-five of which he had held this vicarage, besides previously oflBciating here five years as curate. This memorial was erected by public subscription, in record of his many virtues. St. Andrew's parish formerly included the entire borough of Plymouth, but it was divided into two parishes, by an act of Parliament passed in the year 1640; — since which time, the separated district has obtained the name of Charles ; its church, which was finished after the Restoration, having been dedicated in honour of King Charles I. The presentation to both parishes, which are vicarages, belongs to the Corporation of Plymouth; and within a few years, "the lucrative but novel experiment," as Mr. Rowe mildly characterizes an act of reprehensible thrift and worldly speculation, " of disposing of that right by sale, has been adopted." The lay-impropriator of the great tithes of St. Andrew's, is Edmund P. Bastard, Esq., M.P. for this county. TAVISTOCK, AND TAVISTOCK ABBEY. Tavistock is a large, respectable, and ancient stannary and borough to^yn, deriving its name from being seated on the banks of the "mountain-born" river Tavy, near the western verge of this county. The situation is extremely pleasant, and in its neighbourhood are numerous spots of great scenic beauty and geological interest. It occupies the level and northern acclivity of a valley, through which the river hurries over its rocky bed with tumultuous rapidity, presenting, after heavy rains, an appearance of considerable grandeur. Though irregularly built, and containing little remarkable, except its church and the several structures lying south of that edifice, few country towns can boast so good an approach as that of Tavistock from the Plymouth road. On the right, opposite the church, is the extensive imitative gothic fagade of the Bedford Arms Inn ; in front are various old embattled and turreted buildings, which belonged to the Abbey; and near these is the modem public library, with its Doric portico : the view is otherwise diversified by numerous ivied fragments of the ancient monastic offices. According to the monkish legends, Tavistock Abbey was founded by Ordgar, Earl of Devon,* in the year 961, in consequence of an admonitory vision, and completed in 981, by Ordulph, his son, whom William of Malmesbury, has represented as so immense in stature, that he could stride over rivers ten feet wide ! In 997, it was plundered and burnt by the Danes, who came up the Tamar from Plymouth, and ravaged all the country as far as Lydford. It was, however, subsequently rebuilt on a more extended scale, and having acquired great endowments, Henry the First bestowed upon the abbots the " whole Hundred of Tavistock," together with the right of holding a weekly market, and a three- • This noble Saxon was the father of the beautiful Elfleda, whose romantic story, as detailed by William of Malmesbury, (vide Sharpe's translation, 4to.) has furnished an interesting theme, both for Mason's dramatic poem, and Goldsmith's pathetic Essays. 48 DEVONSHIRE. days' annual fair. Increasing in riches and influence, this first became a mitred Abbey in 1458; and in 1514, Richard Banham, the thirty-fifth Abbot, procured from Henry VIII. the privilege of sitting among the peers ; he also obtained a bull from Pope Leo X. exempting the abbey both from episcopal and metropolitan jurisdiction. But these honours were of brief duration, for in 1538, John Peryn, the thirty-sixth and last abbot, was constrained to surrender his monastery, and all its possessions, to the King ; who, in the following year, granted them, with the borough and town of Tavistock, to John, Lord Russel ; and in his descendant, the Duke of Bedford, the whole is now vested. At the period of its dissolution, the revenues of this abbey were valued at £902. 5s. Jd- per anniim. Its patrons were, the Virgin Mary, and the Irish St. Rumon : its inmates were of the Benedictine order. " The church, monastic dwellings, and precincts of the Abbey of Tavistock," were, as remarked by Mr. Kemp,* " situated within a few yards of the right bank of the Tavy, on a narrow plain, very slightly elevated above that river, and surrounded on the north, south, and eastern sides by eminences." Numerous remains yet exist, to attest its ancient grandeur ; — and it is said to have " eclipsed every religious house in Devon- shire, in the extent, convenience, and magnificence of its buildings '.f The Abbey Church, which appears to have been re-erected in Edward the Second's reign, and dedicated by Bishop Stapledon in 1318, was pulled down about the year 1670, to supply materials for a school-house : according to Leland, it was one hundred and twenty-six yards in length, exclusive of an eastern chapel, consecrated to the Virgin Mary. There were, also, extensive cloisters, (of which a solitary arch alone remains,) and a splendid multangular chapter-house, containing thirty- six arched stalls. Upon the site of the latter, and of a school for Saxon literature, which had been established within the Abbey precincts, a residence was built in 1736, for the steward of the manor. That edifice, which was called the Abbey-house, has been replaced by the Bedford Arms Inn, or Hotel, which was erected a few years ago, from designs in the Elizabethan style, by Mr. Foulston, of Plymouth. Behind the inn, is the old refectory, now a meeting- house, which has an arched porch ceiled with elegant tracery, and displaying a sculpture of the Abbey arms. A very handsome gate-house, (shewn in the annexed print) ; a massive wall, with a crenellated parapet; the abbot's private gateway; a tower caUed the I,Trii!IOTUTH. THF. RXC-iTTA STARTITCG CG A1K.M ma * IRIKX, " itf&B \rA)LXi, ]Ii)JK\fiQ)i!liSlBUmJli. 60 DEVONSHIRE. a Norman knight, who was ancestor of the iUustrious family of the Granvilles, which, for upwards of five centuries, continued to possess this lordsliip, but became extinct in the year 1734. The manor is now the property of A. S. Clevland, Esq., formerly Willett. The greatest part of this town is built on the declivity of a steep eminence, on the western side of the river ; the other part lies at the foot of a hill, on the opposite bank. The streets are mostly of a respectable breadth, and, from their sloping situation, much cleaner than those of maritime towns generally are ; but many of the houses being of rude materials, and covered with bad slate, or thatch, have a mean appearance. The quay is conveniently situated, near the middle of the town, and, except at ebb-tide, the river has a sufficient depth of water to bring up vessels of 500 tons burden. Bideford Bridge is the largest structure of the kind in Devon. Leland terms it " a notable work, fairly walled in on each side." Its origin, as detailed in Prince's "Worthies," is associated with the legendary lore of past ages. Various attempts, at sundry times, had been made, to erect a bridge here j yet all failed, from the want of a firm foundation. At length, about the middle of the 14th century, the parish priest. Sir Richard Gornard, or Gurney, "was admonished by a vision in his sleep, to set on the foundation of a bridge, near a rock which he should find rolled from the higher grounds upon the strand. This, at first, he esteemed as a dream ; yet, to second the same with some act, in the morning he went to see the place, and found a huge rock there fixed, whose greatness argued its being in that place, to be the work only of God." Thus incited, "he eftsoons, with Sir Theobald Granville, Knight, Lord of the Manor, an especial furtherer thereof, and a great benefactor to that design, began the foundation of the bridge where it now stands." Indulgences were granted by the Bishop of the diocese, Grandison, to all who assisted with money to carry on the work ; and by that means the bridge was completed. Its extreme length is &J7 feet : it is built with stone, and consists of twenty-four irregular arches, all which are said to have been originally pointed, but, from the repairs made at different periods, several of them are now circular : the base of each pier is defended from the violence of the floods, and other accidents, by a quantity of loose stones, confined by stakes. Various lands, now producing an annual revenue of about £400, have been given to keep it in repair, the management of which (under a decree of chancery) has been vested in eighteen feoffees, for whose use a hall was erected in the year 1758. At spring-tides, the water here rises eighteen feet ; a circumstance which sufficiently accounts for the failures mentioned above. — ^The Church is a spacious edifice, apparently of the early part of the fourteenth century : it has been enlarged at various periods, and is now extremely irregular, but was originally cruciform. At the western end is a square tower, about seventy feet high, which forms a mark for vessels entering the bay. — John Shebheare, M.D. the author of Chrysal, and other works, and those ingenious mathematicians and brothers, Mr. Abraham and Mr. Benjamin Donn, were natives of this town. DEVONSHIRE. ^ THE VALLEY OF ROCKS, NEAR LYNTON. The scenery in the neighbourhood of Lynton, and of Lynmouth, its subjacent appen- dage, on the northern coast of Devon, is of the most extraordinary description, and, being no less distinguished for its grandeur than its variety, must gratify even those who have traversed the passes of the Appennines. In a geological point of view. It excites extreme interest, particularly from its principal feature, the Valley of Rocks, (about a mile to the west of Lynton,) which, in comparison with the contiguous country, presents an aspect of rude sterility and desolation. The bed of this valley, which, at its upper or eastern extremity, is several hundred feet above the sea, is in length about three-quarters of a mile ; its general width is about one hundred yards, but it expands on approaching the ocean. On each side, the acclivi- ties form an angle of about forty-five or fifty degrees, and exhibit huge masses of rocks, broken into a variety of fantastic forms, both fixed and detached. At the western extre- mity, which terminates in a small cove, or inlet, is an isolated and irregular mass of vast magnitude and conoidal shape, (as represented in the print,) partly intercepting a view of the channel; where, on the left, the rugged cliffs, washed by the Severn sea, is seen retiring in perspective, and, on the right, the faint and imperfect outline of the distant coast of Wales. In speculating on the origin of this extraordinary pass, as Dr. Maton has remarked, in his " Observations on the Western Counties," the first idea that offers itself is, " that it must have been the course of a vast and violent torrent, which, from the broad openings towards the sea, and the more craggy torn surface of the mountains, would seem to have poured itself into the Severn at the western extremity." We subjoin a few extracts, but with some verbal alterations, from the descriptive account of this valley given by the same author. " As we advanced, a scene surprisingly grotesque and wild unfolded itself : a Valley, bounded by huge naked rocks, piled one upon another. The heights on each side are of a mountainous magnitude, but apparently composed of loose, unequal masses, which here and there form rude and natural columns, and are fantastically arranged along and near the summits, so as to resemble extensive ruins impending over the pass. Vast fragments overspread the valley, and, which way soever we turned, awful vestiges of convulsion and desolation presented themselves, inspiring the most sublime ideas. As we proceeded, a kind of natural pillar attracted attention, mantled venerably with ivy and moss, and thrusting itself forward from the steep with a bold perpendicularity. — In advancing, the acclivity gradually became less broken and craggy, and at last assumed an aspect more composed : immense blocks of stone, however, still covered the valley, but at length, traces of cultivation and human industry obtruded themselves through the broad gap at its extremity, and expelled those cheerless ideas of solitude and seclusion, which the primeval Q en DEVONSHIRE. wildness and silence of these sublime scenes had first inspired. — Generally speaking, these rocks consist of a fine-grained argillaceous grit, of a lamellar fracture, and, in some instances, friable and loose-textured : the colour is internally a bluish grey, and minute particles of mica may be distinguished throughout the mass." In the central part of the Valley are remains of some stone circles, about forty feet in diameter, assumed to be druidical. Along the stupendous acclivity forming its northern sides, and which presents its external face to the sea, is a path leading from the north- western extremity of the valley to the village of Lynton. This walk cannot be traversed without feelings both of admiration and dread : its scenery is perhaps more striking than that of the valley itself. As he ascends, the spectator may behold, beneath him, the sea-gull, though its flight be far above the waves ; or regard with wonder the ponderous and huge masses of grotesquely-shaped rocks, which terminate the upland view. ILFRACOMBE TOWN AND HARBOUR. Ilfracombb, the most northerly town in Devon, is situated near the entrance of the Bristol Channel, confronted by Swansea and the Welsh coast, which are often clearly perceptible, though at a distance of twenty miles. It is governed by a portreeve, and in ancient records is described as a borough : the market was granted by Edward I. in 12/8, to Henry Champernowne, together with a three days' fair, at the festival of the Holy Trinity. This manor was parcel of the barony of Barnstaple, and with that it descended from the Trades to the Martins and Audleys, (of whom James, Lord Audley, most bravely distinguished himself at the battle of Poictiers,) but, on the failure of male issue in the latter family, it reverted, by an entail, to the crown. After some intervening ownerships, Ilfracombe passed to the Bourchiers, and is now the property of their descendant Sir Bourchier Wray, Bart, who has an occasional residence in the town. Of the romantic situation of this town, the accompanying view will give a favourable idea. Its extent, in a north-easterly direction, from the Church at the upper extremity, to the harbour at the lower one, is about a mile. It is irregularly built, and chiefly consists of a roughly paved street, unusually long, inconveniently narrow, and occasionally very steep. Above, and around the main body of the town, are many good houses and con- venient cottages : the most eligible residences are on the new terrace, which commands a superb prospect of the harbour, and its surromiding heights, laved by the ocean. The Church, which is a spacious old building, of three aisles, contains, among other memorials, a sarcophagus, ornamented with naval trophies, of the brave Captain Bowen, who fell in the disastrous attack on Teneriffe, on July the 24th, 1 797- The learned Camden was a patron of Ilfracombe, which is a prebend in the church of Salisbury, and is traditionally said to have been once a resident here. DEVONSHIRE. IgS Ilfracombe, in the " olden times," appears to have been a considerable sea-port ; and it contributed six ships and eighty-two mariners to the fleet destined for Calais, in 1346. The harbour, which is almost surrounded by craggy heights, aifords, from its peculiar situation and its artificial pier, a secure protection from the violence of the northern tempests ; and is much resorted to, particularly in the wintry months, by vessels passing up and down the channel from Ireland, &c. and also, at other times, when, from the state of the weather, it is dangerous to enter the Taw for Barnstaple. In the winter season, three large skiffs cruise here, expressly for the purpose of assisting vessels in distress ; but the harbour must be entered with caution. At the foot of Capstan Hill there is a rock, called " Half-tide Rock," which should be covered with water before any sloop attempts to pass the lighthouse. The pier, which is upwards of 850 feet in length, was originally constructed at the expense of the Bourchiers, Barons Fitzwarine, and it has recently been greatly improved by Sir Bouchier Wray. The harbour is bounded, westward, by several craggy heights, called Tors, (forming sea-marks,) the descent from which terminates in the romantic cove of Wildus Mouth. On the eastern side is the stupendous rock of Hillsborough, which rises with a bold and rugged outline to an elevation of 500 feet above the strand : between the latter and a smaller rock, rising nearly to a point, and on which is the Chapel Light- house, (so termed from its exterior resemblance to a place of worship,) is the entrance for shipping. The light-house rock is connected with the lofty elevation, called Capstan Hill, by a chain of lower rocks lying between the town and the sea. Upwards of seventy vessels belong to this port, and are chiefly employed in the coasting trade: additional employment is found in the herring- fishery; and steam -packets proceed hence twice, weekly, to Swansea, and once to Bristol. Ilfracombe is a pleasant summer residence, and extremely convenient as a central station for tourists visiting the romantic beauties of this coast. Of late years it has been much frequented as a bathing-place ; and as evidence of its increasing repute, may be adduced the establishment of a regatta here, in the summer of 1828. The public rooms are handsome and commodious: they have a neat Ionic facade, forming the centre of the range of buildings on Coronation Terrace. LUSCOMBE, NEAR DAWLISH. Less than a mile, west, from Dawlish church, is Luscombe, the seat of Charles Hoare, Esq. who was induced to purchase the estate in the year 1797? in consequence of the high repute which the air on this, the southern coast of Devon, had obtained for its salubrious and balmy qualities. Since that time, with a slight exception as to foliage, this demesne has, by the employment of art, been advanced to its present state of superior attraction. The natural beauties of the spot have been developed, and rendered subservient to domestic, and even luxurious comfort, both by planting and laying out the grounds in a tasteful 54 DEVONSHIRE. manner, and by the erection of an elegant mansion in the castellated style, from the appropriate designs of John Nash, Esq. to whom the western parts of the Metropolis are so much indebted for their recent improvements. ncrniTi Luscombe House is seated in one of the combes, or hollows, which branch out from the steep acclivity of Haldon : it is partially sheltered by luxuriously- wooded hills, but commands, on the east, a fine sea-view down the valley, including the tower and part of Dawlish church, and the restless waters of the English Channel. From its architectural combinations, its embattled and ivied walls, niuUioned windows, projecting porch, pinnacles, and octagonal tower, the exterior is highly picturesque ; nor is the interior less attractive, from the elegance and classic taste exhibited in its arrangements, decora- tions, and furniture. Many specimens of the fine arts, especially pictures and drawings, ornament the apartments ; and there is also a well-chosen library, both of general literature and classic authors. The pictures are mostly by modern English artists, whose names are a guarantee of their respective merits. Among them is a whole-length of the late Henry Hoare, Esq., (of Mickham Grove, Surrey, a cousin of Mr. C. Hoare, father of Lady Acland,) by Sir Thomas Lawrence ; the Shipwreck, from Shakspeare's Tempest, by De Loutherbourg j the Village Doctress, a Country Girl with an Ass going to Market, and a Boy looking at a Den of Tigers, by Northcote ; the Shepherd's Boy, and the Infant Jupiter, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Love Sheltered and Love's Ingratitude, from Anacreou, and the Red Cross Knight, by Thomson ; St. Catherine of Sienna, by Zurbaran, a Spanish artist ; a Land- scape, by Ruysdael, with Cattle, by Adrian Vandervelde; and the Four Seasons, by Bassan. The scenery at Luscombe, including its plantations, shrubbery, gardens, and farm, the varied outline of the grounds, the variety of deciduous and exotic trees, the ridges of hills and distant views, constitute a succession of pleasing and picturesque objects, which cannot fail to gratify almost every class of visitants. MAMHEAD HALL, NEAR DAWLISH. Mamuead, which is now one of the most beautiful places in the county, was, at the time of the Domesday survey, held under Baldwin, the sheriff, by Ralph de Pomerai. It afterwards belonged to the Peverells, and from them it passed in marriage to the Carews, of whom Sir Peter Carew sold the manor, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, to Giles Balle, father of Sir Peter Balle, Recorder of Exeter, and Attorney-General to Queen Henrietta Maria, consort of Charles I. Thomas Balle, Esq. the last of this family, erected, about the year 1742, the stone obelisk on Mamhead-point, which is about one hundred feet high, and forms an important sea-mark. He also, as his predecessors had done, contributed to embellish the boldly-swelling grounds at Mamhead with plantations; and is said to have brought, for this purpose from the Continent, a great quantity of cork, wainscot, oak, DEVONSHIRE. 65 Spanish chesnut, acacia, cedar, and other exotic trees. Soon after his decease, in 1749, Mamhead was sold by Thomas Hussey Apreece, Esq. to Joseph Gascoyne Nightingale, Esq,* by whose sister Elizabeth, it was conveyed in marriage to the Hon. Wilmot Vaughan, first Earl of Lisburne, whose son John, the third Earl, in the year 1823, sold Mamhead, and. all his possessions in the county of Devon, to Robert William Newman, Esq. who at that time represented the city of Exeter in Parliament. Sir Peter Balle died in 1680, and was buried in the church of Mamhead. He rebuilt the manor house, which was afterwards much enlarged by the first Earl of Lisburne, who made it his constant residence, and under his directions great improvements were effected; he extended the park, and added several plantations. The prominent feature of this remarkable place, is the lofty Hill to which it is indebted for its shelter : when originally planted by Mr. Balle, it was characterized by the term of Halle's Folly, so strong was the opinion, that trees would not bear such exposure ; nevertheless, it has been long covered by stately trees, of every species, many of great size, and extraordinary height ; the cedars of Libanus are numerous, and several of them are from eighty to ninety feet high. The trees of the Quercus Ilex are also very fine ; many measure from ten to fifteen feet in circumference, at three feet from the ground. Lysons states, that they were the first of the kind produced in England from acorns, the experiment being made about the year 1696; here also are some fine cork-trees, an extraordinary yew-tree, which shading the church yard, is, at four feet from the ground, more than thirty feet in circumference, and a grove of flourishing magnolia trees of considerable size. So elevated are these grounds, that the obelisk may be seen from the most eastern and western parts of the county. Since Mr. Newman became possessor of this estate, he has accomplished here various and most important improvements, of which none is more striking than the new mansion, now erecting from the designs of A. Salvin, Esq. architect, after the style of Henry the Eighth's reign. The site is very preferable to that on which stood the old manor house. From a handsome terrace in front, the Island of Portland may be seen with the interme- diate coasts of Devon and Dorset. The land view is also very fine, and is limited only by the hills of Dorsetshire and Somersetshire. The nearer landscape is enchanting, commanding the richly wooded park, in which the church, from recent alterations, is become a highly picturesque object; Powderham Castle and grounds, the river Exe, divided as it were into different lakes, and many seats of the gentry on the eastern side of the river, also Exmouth and Lympstone, with innumerable hamlets and villages ; besides which, there is a noble view of the British Channel. Mamhead House confirms the general opinion, that great progress has, of late years, been made by the architects of England ; and Mr. Salvin may justly claim high praise for the beautiful simplicity and elegance exhibited in his designs for this mansion. The • There is an unfounded tradition that Lady Nightingale, the wife of thia gentleman, to whose memory the beautiful monument by Roubilliac was erected in Westminster Abbey, was struck dead by lightning in the grounds of Mamhead, in her husband's arms. R gg DEVONSHIRE. whole exterior is of Bath stoue, and the ground it occupies is nearly eight hundred feet in circumference : the masonry is throughout most skilfully executed ; the chimnies, which are all of stone, in number between sixty and seventy, and of fifteen different forms, are highly ornamental; these, and the gables, with the powerful aid of two square and two octagon towers, intersect the roof (which is covered with excellent lead-coloured slate) in so very picturesque a manner, that the efifect can hardly be paralleled. There are four fronts to this edifice, each in itself being uniform, but all varying from each other : the centre of the eastern front is imposing, and the window of the great stair-case is very splendid ; the light from which assists to illumine a superb gallery of more than eighty feet in length. The terraces are spacious, and contribute much to the fine effect of the whole. The flower-garden is pleasantly situated on the south side, where an elegant con- servatory is soon to be erected, and it will terminate one end of the building. The interior, at present, is in too unfinished a state for description, but it may be said, generally, that the rooms are finely proportioned, and conveniently arranged. The first floor of the southern front is exclusively devoted to the use of the family. The ofiices are very com- plete, and the underground cellai's, all arched with brick, are most capacious ; and stoves are so placed, that the whole house can be kept thoroughly dry by heated air. The kitchen- garden is extensive, and its situation excellent: the gardener's house, which overlooks it, is in the style of an Italian villa, and connected with the orangery, pinery, &c. The rides which existed in the grounds have been mostly destroyed, but others, directed by superior taste, are substituted ; the natural difficulties, from the undulating ground, and the great ascent from the lower part of the park to the mansion, having been surmounted with great skill. The castellated edifice, delineated in the annexed print, is not yet built, but the foundations are preparing, and it will be constructed with a rich red-coloured stone, of this neighbourhood, the peculiarity of which is, that, by the aid of ivy, it assumes the character of antiquity ; it will be raised on a high mount, and contain the laundry, stabling, and other domestic offices. THE SUBSCRIPTION ROOMS, AND NEW LONDON INN, EXETER. The ScBscaiPTioN Rooms at Exeter, which occupy the former site of Hurst's Alms- houses at the eastern end of Northemhay, near the entrance of High street, were erected in 1820, from the designs of Mr.Wm. Burgess, architect. Prior to that year, the assembly room within the Hotel, in the Cathedral Close, was the only apartment for concerts and balls, but more spacious accommodations being necessary, this building was raised by subscription on a scale of magnitude and elegance commensurate with the city to which it belongs. The assembly, or ball-room, which is eighty feet in length by forty feet in breadth, and handsomely fitted up, has been annually appropriated since the year 1825, to the purposes of an Exhibition-room for paintings, &c.; and many excellent pictures, by Devonshire and other artists, have been here displayed. WH.Bmlett,. THE SUJBSCKIPTJlOIf ROOMS, & VmW LOHBQW IHH, MSJETKS. . w H Bii-Uett TEIIE BATiaS. SOlCrTBnEIBKa&T. KZjETEH.. -,ij) ^tU-ILdJU. ulB^'4>ib, ^XBTSBL. DEVONSHIRE. 67 The New London Inn, formerly the Oxford Inn, was erected in the years 1793 and 1794, by the late Mr. John Land, from designs by Nosworthy, the builder of the houses, (crescent, &c.) in the Barn-field and the Dix-field.* It is a quadrangular edifice, including an open court, and it now possesses every requisite accommodation for travel- lers, and families of distinction ; many improvements having been made in the arrange- ments by Mr. Clench, the present proprietor. The stabling is detached. THE BATHS, SOUTHERNHAY, EXETER. Exeter, with its suburbs, contains many handsome rows of modern houses, and parti- cularly in the eastern part of the city. Those of Southernhay Place which is an airy and salubrious situation, are fronted by an expansive area, or pleasure ground, enclosed with iron palisadoes. The adjacent Public Baths, which were first opened on the 3rd of December, 1821, exhibit a classical exterior, and are replete with every internal accom- modation, but, unfortunately, the establishment has not met with that success which it so fully deserves. In front are three porticoes, of similar elevation to the main building, each exterior presenting a lofty entablature and balustrade, supported by four square pillars, coupled. This building was erected from the designs of the late Mr. Lethbridge : over the central elevation stands a colossal figure of Neptune, with a sea-horse. MOUNT RADFORD COLLEGE, NEAR EXETER. Mount Radford, in the parish of St. Leonard, at a little distance from Exeter to the south-east, was so named from Matthew Radford, Esq., who originally built this mansion, in the latter part of the sixteenth century. It afterwards became the property and residence of the celebrated Judge Doderidge ; and during the civil wars, in the reign of Charles the First, it was occupied both as a parliamentary and a royal garrison. Its recent owners were the Barings ; and the late John Baring, Esq., who was one of the representatives for Exeter in several Parliaments, made numerous improvements, both in the house and grounds. The College School was established here by a number of share- holders in 1826 : it is a capacious edifice, but has few pretensions to architectural dis- tinction. Its situation is commanding, and extremely pleasant : the attached grounds are extensive, and well planted. The Rev. Charles Rodwell Roper, A.M. of St. John's College, Oxford, is the present master of the College, which originated, we believe, with John Tyrrell, Esq. an eminent barrister. • The Oxford Inn was begun to be pulled down at Michaelmas, 1793, to make room for the New London Inn, which was occupied in ten months afterwards. Mr. Land, at the time of his decease, on the 25th of January, 1817, at the age of eighty-seren, was the most opulent as well as the oldest innkeeper in the West of England. 68 • DEVONSHIRE. COLLIPRffiST HOUSE, NEAR TIVERTON. This mansion, which stands on the acclivity of a fine eminence, near the junction of the rivers Exe and Lowman, at a short distance to the south of Tiverton, was rebuilt in its present form, by the late Thomas Winsloe, Esq. who afterwards assumed the name of Phillips, as heir to Sir Jonathan Phillips, Bart. It is a plain edifice, consisting of a centre with projecting wings, but is very pleasantly situated on a sloping lawn, declining to the Exe : behind is an hanging wood. A small rill trickles through the grounds, which con- tain many venerable trees, particularly elms ; and from the Temple of Apollo, at the termination of a lofty avenue on CoUipriest Hill, a remarkably pleasing and diversified prospect is obtained over Tiverton and its neighbourhood. The present owner of this estate is Robert Baker, Esq. ST. SroWELLS CHURCH, EXETER. St. Sidwell's, an extensive parish on the north-east side of Exeter, and including part of its suburbs, derived its name from Sativola, a sainted female, who was a native of Exeter, and lived about the year 740.* Tradition reports, that she was beheaded with a scythe, by a mower, or reaper, near a well which still exists at a little distance from the church, and is still called St. Sids-well.f After she was canonized, in the Saxon times, a church was erected here to her honour, and her remains having been deposited in it, dif- ferent bequests were made in subsequent ages, to maintain the lights at, and to repair, her tomb. Lysons states, that this parish was formerly parcel of Heavitree ; yet it appears, • For the following account of St. Sativola, who is but little known beyond the precincts of Exeter, we are indebted to the Rev. G. Oliver, whose authorities are Leland, Dugdale, Cressy, Capgrave, William of Worcester, and Bishop Lacy's register. — We are told that Sativola was bom in Exeter, of British parents, who were nobles, and that her father's name was Bonna. She had a brother called Bana, and three devout sisters, St. Juthwara, St Eadwara, and St. Wilgitha. After her mother's death, Benna married a second wife, who was also of noble extrac- tion, but wicked, covetous, and cruel. Sativola had estates in the eastern suburbs of Exeter, and used to resort for the performance of religious exercise, and for pious contemplation, to a fountain or well there, still remaining, and called St. Sidwell's well. Benna dying, his widow, eager to obtain her step-daughter's possessions, engaged one of Benna's servants, a mower, to murder her, which he accordingly did, by cutting off her head with his scythe. Over the spot where she was buried, a church was afterwards erected, and dedicated to her ; and many miracles were alleged to be performed at her tomb. St. Sativola's festival was annually kept in Exeter Cathedral, on the 2d, of August, and her death is placed in its martyrology, on tlie 1st of August : " Item in Britannia foras murum Civitatis Exo- niae Sancte Sativole, Virginis ct Martyris." Of her sisters St. Eadwara and St. Wilgitha, no further account appears ; but of St. Juthwara, we learn, that after her father's death, she was killed by her brother Bana, at the instigation of her step-mother, on a false charge of incontinence. t In October 1267, Jolin de Doulys bequeathed an acre and a half of land, to keep this well in good repair ; and it appears from the register of St. John's Hospital, at Exeter, that in 1498, a book was given by Roger Holande, Esq. to Richard Hylle, prior of St. John's, which affirmed, that the close lying directly above the well was called " Had- iryl-mede," and that the prior and his brethren having most ground in that field, were bound to repair the well. W. H3oni ST. SimWELUS CHUmCH, BZETISK.. WlTBarfott. "TS^H.BotT BA-TiD's cHiu&aa.KxsTaia. DEVONSHIRE. ST. DAVID'S CHURCH, EXETER. St. David's, an extensive parish, including the chief part of the north-western suburbs of Exeter, with some portion of the city itself, is described in Bishop Stafford's Register, sub anno 1401, as a Curacy, (Curata Capella,) and dependent on St. Michael's Church, Heavitree.* The earliest mention of a church here, is in a copy of a mandate issued between the years 1194 and 1206, by Bishop Henry Marshall j and it occurs again A. D. 1270, in Bishop Bronescombe's Register, fol. 45. The last church, which was a very unimportant fabric, was built in 1541, and consecrated in the autumn of that year, by William Vivyan, Bishop of Hippo, the suffragan of Bishop Veysey.f That edifice was pulled down in 1816, and the present Church, which is represented in the annexed view, was erected in its stead, from the designs of Mr. James Green, architect. It is a respectable structure of the Grecian Doric order, occupying a remarliably fine situation on St. David's Hill : the portico is handsome, and of good proportions, but the steeple, or clock tower, is neither graceful nor well imagined. The interior is neat, and conveniently arranged : among its sepulchral monuments is that of Sir Thomas Jefford, Knt. who built the mansion called Great Duryard, in the reign of James the Second, by whom he was knighted, and made Mayor of Exeter, about four months before the Revolution of 1688 : his decease occurred in the year 1703.J There was anciently a chapel belonging to this parish, dedicated to St. Clement, in the low grounds near the river Exe, and its site is still indicated by the name of CAaJBe^field. -• -ini'vfi vd . FOLLATON HOUSE, NEAR TOTNES. Foleton, as it was anciently spelt, was given by Joel de Totneis, to the Priory which he had founded at Totnes, in the reign of William the Conqueror, as a cell to the Bene- dictine Abbey of St. Sergius and St. Bacchus, at Angiers, and that the monks " might pray for the good estate and safety of the King whilst living, and for his soul when dead." — It was purchased of Mr. Andrew Hilley, by the late Edward Gary, Esq. and is now the property and residence of George Stanley Cary, Esq. The latter gentleman is the nearest collateral branch of the Carys of Tor Abbey, Cockington, and Clovelly ; in the respective parish churches of which places, many tombs remain of the early ancestors of this family. Prince, in his ' Worthies of Devon,' says, « There were living at the same time," of the • Vide Oliver's " History of Exeter," p. 149. t Ibid. X Mr. Jefford is reputed to have accumulated a large fortune in trade, as a dyer; and tradition vouches for his skill in the art, by representing that he obtained his knighthood from presenting a piece of cloth to king James, dyed of a blue colour on one side, and scarlet on the other.. THE Sj;iT or OEORCE STA_-rLET C^T.ESQ. TO ^.M THIS PIATE IS MSHECirm-I-Y DEDICAIED BT THT. PCBtlSHiaiS . Tin-. SKAT OF •!«» CUAJlPEKNOUin;, TO WHOM THIS PLATE IS HKSPKCTITTLI.Y INSCRIBF.H DEVONSHIRE. 7I Carj^s, " two Earls, Monmouth and Dover ; one Viscount, Falkland ; and one Baron, Hunsdon : an honour which few families in England can pretend to." FoLLATON House stands embosomed in a woody and picturesque vale, about a mile from Totnes, on the road to Plymouth. It has lately received considerable additions, under the architectural direction of J. S. Repton, Esq. The exterior is remarkable for its pure sim- plicity of style ; the widely-extended front being enriched solely by a double line of bold projecting cornice, and a lofty portico of the Ionic order. Mr. Gary is a member of the Roman Catholic church, from which faith the family has never deviated. DARTINGTON HOUSE, NEAR TOTNES. Dartington was the seat of a Barony, which, at the time of the Domesday survey, belonged to William de Falesia, but shortly after became the property of Robert Fitz- Martin, or Martyn, (whose father was Lord of Camoens, in Wales,) and his descendants, for six generations, continued to possess, and to reside on this estate ; it then devolved to James, Lord Audley, in consequence of his father's marriage with a co-heiress of the Martyns. From his family, in default of issue male, and pursuant to an entail, it passed to the crown. Richard the Second, in 1385, gave it with other lands to Robert de Vere, " till he should have conquered Ireland, and kept it in peace;" but afterwards, he bestowed Dartington on John Holland, Duke of Exeter, his half-brother, who is stated to have erected " most of the present mansion," together " with the great hall," which, as Lysons remarks, " is evidently of that age."* It subsequently escheated to the crown, and in H87 was granted to Margaret, Countess of Richmond; but eventually became, (by exchange, as reported by Sir William Pole,) the property and residence of Sir Arthur Champerno^vne ; whose monument, dated 1578, displaying his own effigy, with that of his lady, and their seven children, still remains near the altar in Dartington church. His descendant, (by Jane, a married heiress,) Arthur Harington, Esq. who took the name of Champernowne in 1/76, died in 1819, when this estate devolved to his son Arthur, a minor ; and is now occupied by Mrs. Champernowne, the widow of the late owner. Dartington House occupies an elevated site near the banks of the Dart, and from some of its windows a fine prospect is obtained over the beautiful vale of Totnes. Originally the building consisted of two quadrangles, connected with each other by the hall, kitchen, buttery, and other appendages. Three sides of the outer quadrangle, which measured 245 feet by 157 feet, are nearly perfect : the central part, which now forms the dwelling- house, or mansion, was formerly divided into many distinct tenements, used as offices, and entered by five door-ways, projecting from the front, and having steps extending from each, leading to the rooms over the ground floor. The northern side is occupied by a barn, • Vide Lysons' " DeTonshire," p. 152, and cccxlviii. 72 DEVONSHIRE. stabling, &c. and on the left is the great hall, and kitchen : the former is embattled, and has a vaulted entrance-porch and tower, forty-four feet in height ; at the intersection of the ribs is a sculptured rose, or boss, and within it a recumbent stag, the badge, or cogni- zance, of Richard II. Large pointed-arched windows admit light to tlie interior, which is 69 feet long, by 38 feet wide : the roof is of oaken frame-work, and about 50 feet in height. Of the inner quadrangle, which contained the principal apartments when inha- bited by the Duke of Exeter, who according to Prince, " for the most part made it his principal residence," little remains, except a wall with pointed-arched windows, that formed part of a gallery, 100 feet long. When the late Mr. Champernowne returned from Italy, he ornamented the present mansion with a few very beautiful paintings, which he had collected, with many others, chiefly by the old masters, in that country. — The lords of this manor had formerly the power of inflicting the punishment of death. FRITHELSTOKE PRIORY. About two miles from Great Torrington, on the west side of the river Torridge, is the little village of Frithelstoke, or, more correctly, Frithelstock, at which are the remains of a small Priory, founded in the year 1220, for Austen canons, by Sir Robert de Beauchamp. It was so connected with Hartland Abbey, that the superior of each foundation had a voice in each other's election. At its suppression in the year 1534, the annual revenues were valued at £12/. 2. 41. In 1538, the Priory demesne was granted by Henry VIII., to Arthur Plantagenet, afterwards Viscount Lisle; but it has since had various possessors, and is now occupied as a farm-yard. Some walls of the conventual church, which was dedi- cated to St. Gregory, yet remain, as represented in the annexed print, with lancet-shaped windows, coeval with the foimdation, at the east end. There is nothing remarkable in the village church. GREAT TORRINGTON CHURCH. Great Torrington is a market town of remote date, and the manor is baronial ; yet we have no account of the origin of the parochial Church, nor at what period it was founded. The patronage and appropriation of the vicarage belong to the Dean and Chapter of Christ's Church, in Oxford, to whom the Church of Torrington is reputed to have been given by Cardinal Wolsey. During the civil war between Charles the First and his Parliament, the old Church at Torrington was destroyed by an event of the most appalling nature. About the middle of February, 1646, the Royalists, under the Lords Hopton and Capel, and Sir John Digbj', took possession of the town, which they fortified and barricadoed in the best manner the time would allow. On the night of the 16th, however, they were attacked by Sir Thomas Fairfax, and, after a severe contest, totally defeated; an event which gave the death-blow FMHTMIE 'SMJKAX (EMTCTRCM, IDffiVOSJSffilllRE. OA1S.HAMFTOH CASTILE, ©JSTOHSHIIRE. •■ <;>fe- ' .%e< £--M --i^< •^?^-r# .* -VjkJu -Eiii. Arcijwa DEVONSHIRE. 73 to the power of the crown in the west of England.* Both the royal lords were wounded, and eight colours were taken, together with numerous prisoners ; many of whom were blown up in the Church, by the explosion of eighty barrels of gunpowder, which had been lodged there by Lord Hopton. Whitelock says, " that the Parliamentary forces were no sooner possessed of the town, than the enemy's magazine, which they left in the Church, was fired, whether on purpose by them, or by accident, is uncertain ; but it proved a horrible disaster, blowing up the Church, with all the wood and lead upon it, and deforming many houses. "f By this explosion, all the western part of the Church was destroyed; but the chancel, with an adjoining chapel, and a southern tower, escaped, though not without much damage. In 1G51, the body of the Church, consisting of a nave and side aisles, was rebuilt, somewhat, interiorly, after the Tuscan order. In November last (anno 1830), the old tower, which had long been unsafe, was begun to be pulled down; and a new tower, which is now in progress, was commenced at the western end of the Church : it will be surmounted by an octagonal spire, as shewn in the accompanying print, the sketch for which addition was obligingly furnished by the architect. This edifice is dedicated to St. Michael. The altar-piece was presented by the late Lady RoUe, and is well executed. OAKHAMPTON CASTLE. Oakhampton, or Okehampton, called Ochetiitone in the Domesday book, is an ancient market and borough town, situated in a low valley, watered by the river Ock, or Oke, a torrent-like stream, which flows from Cranmere Hill, on the skirts of Dartmoor, and over which there is a bridge leading to the market-place. In itself, the town contains little deserving of notice, except a small chantry chapel, with a square tower, dedicated to St. James, and now belonging to the corporation. The inhabitants derive much of their support from the expenditure of travellers, for whose accommodation there is a large and well-conducted inn ; the great road from Exeter to Launceston, in Cornwall, passing through the town, which is nearly equidistant from both those places. On the Saturday before Christmas a great cattle market is held here ; and on the Saturday after Christmas, is a great holiday-fair, called a ' Giglet,' or * Giglet Market,' that is, a wife market; at which the most rustic swain, if weary of his bachelorship, is privileged with self-introduction to any disengaged fair one who may attract his parti- cular fancy. The Church, which stands on a considerable eminence, about half a mile west- • So important was this victory considered, that a public thanksgiving was appointed for it ; and on that occa- sion the famous Hugh Peters, who was then Chaplain to the sirmy, preached in the market-place at Torrington, and is said to have made many converts to the Parliamentary cause. — Vide Sprigge's " England's Recovery," page 186. t Whitelock's " Memorials of the English Affairs," page 193 : edit. 1T32. T 74 DEVONSHIRE, ward of the town, is an old building, in the pointed style, and has a square tower, enriched with pinnacles : the church-yard is thickly planted with rows of trees, which, with the fabric itself, make a fine feature in the landscape from the opposite heights. The Casti£, which, like the Church, is situated on an eminence, about half a mile south-west of the town, was the chief seat of the Honour, or Barony of Oakhampton, the possessions forming which, were granted by William the Conqueror to his faithful follower, Baldwin de Brioniis, in reward for his eminent services at the battle of Hastings. He also bestowed on him the hereditary sheriffdom of Devon, and made him keeper of Exeter castle, within the ancient limits of which he erected a fortress in the Norman mode, by the king's command, in order to overawe the disaffected inhabitants. In the reign of Henry the Second, the Barony of Oakhampton became invested in the family of the Courtenays, afterwards earls of Devon, by the marriage of Reginald de Courtenay with Hawise, the descendant and co-heiress of Richard de Rivers, eldest son of Brioniis.* After several alienations and attainders, this Barony became extinct by the decease of Edward Courtenay, Earl of Devon, without issue, at Padua, in Queen Mary's reign, when his possessions were divided among the descendants of the four sisters of his great-grand- father ; and Oakhampton Castle, with two-fourths of the manor, became the property of the Mohuns. In the reign of George the Third, Lord Clive, of East Indian notoriety, became owner, by purchase, of the entire manor, which afterwards was successively in the possession of his late majesty George the Fourth, when Prince of Wales, and of the late Henry Holland, Esq., architect. Albany Savile, Esq., of Oaklands, is the present proprie- tor, both of the Castle and the manor. When Henry de Courtenay was beheaded, on a charge of treasonable correspondence with Cardinal Pole, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, the magnificent Castle of Oakhamp- ton was reduced to ruins, and its noble park devastated, by order of that monarch. The Castle occupied the summit and declivity of a conoidal mount, or eminence, which is now so thickly clothed with trees, that, although the ruins are of great extent and magnitude, the keep, and a smaller fragment northward, are alone perceptible from the high road. The latter, as represented in the annexed view, is nearly on a level with the top of the mount just mentioned, which rises from the verdant meadows of the valley, and is skirted on one side by the western branch of the Ock river. When first observed by the traveller, journeying from the south, the mouldering turrets and ivy-clad ruins of the Castle appear particularly striking, from their combination with the surrounding scenery, the acclivities being mostly covered with fine woods. • In the seventh year of King John, Robert, the son of Reginald and Hawise, " gave f 500," as stated in Dugdale's Baronage, vol. i. p. 79, " and five palfreys, to have livery of the Honour of Oakhampton, his mother's inheritance, which contained ninety-two Knight's fees, and a third part."— At the period of the Domesday Survey, Baldwin de Brioniis, Baron of Oakhampton, held seventeen manors in demesne, in the county of Devon, (over eiKht of which he possessed the power of life and death,) besides one hundred and sixty-four others, which were occupied by inferior tenants. :.:; :r.:i^si23''^-]acGMa, i-. -^.i rf^A£.«[^ jQ.'.aUi ■&< jai-iw ji. iS£.,Ua •^ J^ ^'■W x^ Jaii.''U. U X'^ lj-A.Bi.TMG>i:jTS;. DEVONSHIRE. 75 OAKLANDS, NEAR OAKHAMPTON. At a short distance, northward, from the town of Oakhampton, over which it commands a pleasing view, is Oaklands, the seat of Albany Savile, Esq., the gentleman mentioned in the preceding article, as proprietor of the manor of Oakhampton. His mansion, which is a handsome building of the Ionic order, as delineated in the accompanying print, stands in an excellent situation, upon a woody slope, and was erected at his own charge, about nine or ten years ago, from the designs, and under the direction, of Mr. Vokins, of London. lliis edifice, which is highly creditable to the classic taste of the architect, has a finely- proportioned portico, in front ; and its internal arrangements are judiciously combined. The staircase, which is particularly grand and spacious, has a gallery around it, supported by Corinthian columns. TEIGNMOUTH :— THE PUBLIC ROOMS, AND COCKRAM'S HOTEL. Teignmouth is a place of remote antiquity, situated, as the name implies, at the mouth of the river Teign, but in itself consisting of two parts, which are separated from each other by a small rivulet, called the Tame ; that on the west side being called West Teignmouth,* and that on the east side, East Teignmouth. They form, however, a con- joined town, which lies open to the sea ; but is delightfully sheltered at the back from the bleak northerly and north-easterly gales, by a ridge of hills. West Teignmouth is the older settlement, and in early times it was a celebrated haven, but the entrance to the latter has been greatly deteriorated by the formation of a shifting bar, or sand-bank, which impedes the navigation ; although vessels of 400 tons burthen may still enter, and discharge, or take in, their cargoes at the quays. Its former consequence may be appreciated by the fact of seven ships and one hundred and twenty mariners having been contributed by this port towards the expedition against Calais, in 1347. The mouth of the river is narrow, but it suddenly expands to a considerable width ; the dock-yard, (in which vessels of 150 and 200 tons have been built,) quays, and houses of West Teignmouth, being situated along the curve of extension. The new quay, which is chiefly used for the exportation of granite, iron ore, and manganese, from Haytor and its neighbourhood, was constructed in 1820, by G. Templar, Esq., the owner of the Haytor granite works. Teignmouth has been twice subjected to the ravages of war : first, in 1340, when it was burnt by a French pirate; and again in July 1690, when the French, landing from a fleet, which had anchored in Tor-bay, "in the space of three hours ransacked and plundered both towns, and a village called Shaldon, lying on the other side of the river, and burnt and destroyed 1 16 houses ; together with eleven ships and barks that were in the harbour :"* they also did great damage to the two Churches of Teignmouth. • Camden, and other historians, have stated, that the Danes landed at, and burnt Teignmouth, about the end of the 8th century ; but this appears to be erroneous, as the Tinemutka of the Saxon Chronicle certainly refers to Tyne-mouth in Northumberland. 76 DEVONSHIRE. Since that time, however, the buildings and consequence of this town have greatly increased, and particularly so from the period, (about the middle of the last century,) when it became known as a bathing and watering-place. In its present state, it certainly surpasses in magnitude, and fashionable celebrity, all the watering places on the Devon- shire coast. The chief resort of visitors is East Teignmouth, where the Public Rooms, Theatre, and principal Hotel, and promenades, are situated ; the maritime and general business being carried on at West Teignmouth. Of the buildings just named. The Public Rooms, and Cockram's Royal Hotel, are accurately shewn in the accom- panying print, together with the Ness Point and neighbouring acclivity. Both edifices stand upon an extensive flat, called the Hen, which is nearly a mile in length, and running parallel to the beach, forms a fine promenade. In the Public Rooms, which were raised by a subscription, in forty shares, in 1826, utility and elegance are combined ; and Mr. Patey, (of Exeter,) the architect, deserves high praise, not only for the conveniency of the internal arrangements, but likewise for the classic aspect of the exterior. This building, which occupies a central part of a crescented range, (yet standing insulated, the side avenues being fifty feet in width,) displays an extensive fagade, consisting of a massy colonnade of the Doric order, surmounted by an Ionic portico : internally, it comprises a spacious dancing saloon, sixty-three feet long, and apartments for reading, refreshments, cards, billiards, and other purposes connected with the establishment. The Royal Hotel stands near the centre of the New Terrace, and has excellent accom- modations for visitors ; besides being very handsomely fitted up. In this town, also, is a Public Library with news and billiard rooms, &c. erected in 1815 : a small Theatre built in 1821, and two Bathing establishments. Additional amusement for company has been devised by the recent institution of an annual Regatta, which usually takes place in the month of August. Both the Churches at Teignmouth, except the old towers, were rebuilt about eight years ago, under the authority of an Act of Parliament, passed in the fifty-fifth year, of the reign of George III. (anno 1816.) A new and most convenient Bridge has also been erected across the Teign, from Teignmouth to Shaldon : it was commenced in Sep- tember 1825, and first opened on the 8th of June 1827- This Bridge was designed and executed by Mr. Roger Hopkins, civil engineer, at an expense of £19,000, advanced by a joint-stock company; and it is considered to be the longest in the kingdom, the entire length being 1671 feet. Stone abutment walls, of great strength, support the ends, but the Bridge itself is constructed of iron and wood : it consists of thirty-four arches, indepen- dently of a swing bridge, which opens into two parts, to admit the passage of large vessels into the harbour. The manor of East Teignmouth belongs to Lord Viscount Courtenay, and that of West Teignmouth to Lord Clifford. Vide Lysons's « Devonshire," p. 489, from a " Brief," in which the particulars of this outrage are detailed, and the loss of the " poor inhabitants" estimated at £11,000 ; a vast sum at that period. DEVONSHIRE. DARTMOUTH. 77 Dartmouth is an ancient sea-port, market, and borougli town, situated on the south- eastern coast of Devon, near the confluence of the river Dart with the British Channel. Gilpin, in his "Observations," remarks, that "The bay which the river forms at its mouth, is one of the most beautiful scenes upon the coast. Both the entrance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the sea, appear, from many stations, closed up by the folding of the banks, so that the bay has frequently the form of a lake, only furnished with shipping instead of boats. Its banks, which are its great beauty, consist of lofty wooded hills, shelving down in all directions." The view of Dartmouth itself, from the bay, is extremely pleasing : the houses appear situated on the acclivity of a craggy hill, and extending, embosomed in trees, about a mile along the water's edge. The dock-yard and quay project into the river, and cause an apparent curvature in its course, which has a beautiful efifect, animated, as it is, by the numerous vessels which frequent the haven.* In ancient records, this town is called Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardnesse, and it originally consisted of three hamlets respectively so named, which, thougli now united by buildings, are partly distinct witli regard to local regulations. Clifton is an appendage to the parish of Stoke Fleming ; the two other districts are appendages to the parish of Townstall. The market was originally granted to Dartmouth in the eleventh year of Henry the Third ; but King John is said, by Leland, to have given it the " privilege of Mairalte." The earliest charter extant, however, conferring such authority, is that of Edward the Third, anno 1342. At present, the Corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve masters, or magistrates, twelve common-council men, and some inferior officers. This borough sends two members to Parliament : the right of election is vested in the Corporation and free- men, who scarcely exceed 100 in number, although the inhabitants amount to nearly 6000. The manor belongs to the Corporation. Dartmouth, as a town, possesses little to recommend it : the houses are in general mean and irregularly built ; but among them are some curious old dwellings, the fronts of which display grotesque carvings in wood, gable-ends, and enriched cornices, as delineated in the annexed Engraving ; and a part of the Governor's mansion, which is fitted up in a handsome manner, exhibits a modern adaptation of the ancient architecture just mentioned. The streets are inconveniently narrow ; and the lower tiers of houses frequently communicate with those above by flights of steps : from the situation of the ground, it is almost possible to shake hands from without, with a person at the back window of an attic story. On the adjacent heights are several excellent residences. There are two Churches at Dartmouth, viz. St. Saviour's and St. Petrock's. The former, which is a spacious edifice of Edward the Third's time, and is built cathedral-wise, has • In Lysons's " Devonshire" is a curious bird's-eye plan of Dartmouth Haven, from a dravring of Henry the Eighth's reign, now in the British Museum. u 78 DEVONSHIRE. considerable internal beauty : its chief ornaments are the altar-piece, the pulpit, and the old wooden screen, with its rood-loft, at the entrance of the chancel, which is an elaborate specimen of carving in the florid Gothic style, richly coloured and gilt. Within the chancel is the tomb of John Hawley, ob. 1408, a rich merchant, and a parliamentary representative of tfiis town in the reign of Henrj' the Fifth. Effigies, in brass, of himself and his two wives, (the last of whom was the heiress of Chief Justice Tresilian, attainted in Richard the Second's time,) still remain. — St. Petrock's is a small building, picturesquely situated on a rock near the mouth of the harbour, within the ruins of Clifton Castle, which are so embowered in wood, as to be scarcely perceptible from the sea beneath. On the opposite eminence are other remnants of fortifications ; and south of the Castle, on a lower site, and nearer the sea, is the mouldering keep of the Castle of Kingsweare. During the Civil wars, Dartmouth was first garrisoned by the Parliament ; but after a month's siege it was surrendered to Prince Maurice on the fourth of October, 1643. Subsequently, it was greatly strengthened by the royalists ; yet, after a few days' invest- ment, about the middle of January, 1646, it was stormed, on a Sunday, by the troops under General Fairfax, together with all its then defences ; namely, the West-gate, Mount Flaggon, Mount Boone, Paradise Fort, ^the old Castle, a fort called Gallant's Bower, Kingsweare Castle, and Townstall Church. BRDCHAM, LOOKING OVER TORBAY. Brixham, or rather Brixham Quay, which is an irregular and straggling place, though of great importance for its fishing trade, is situated on the southern side of Torbay, about one mile and a half westward from Berry Head. It is confronted by the delightful watering place of Torquay, from which it is distant about five miles by water, across tlie bay, and nine miles by land, encircling the shore. Within and around the village are many respectable houses, and the cliffs overhanging the harbour are, for the most part, occupied by dwellings. The surrounding country is extremely beautiful, and includes many spots eligible for villas ; whilst the vicinage of Torquay is unquestionably a powerful attraction. There are few scenes more truly beautiful than the opening of a summer's morning, when Torbay is enlivened with its fleet of fishing boats, stretching far into the channel in an extended line from Brixham and Berry Head. The frequent rendezvous of the British fleets in Torbay, during the revolutionary war with France, was a principal cause of Brixham attaining any extended consequence ; yet it had previously been noticed in our annals as the landing-place of the Prince of Orange, (afterwards William III.) in November, 1688. — Its advancing state was marked in 1799, by the establishment of a weekly market, under the provisions of an act of parliament, passed in that year: under the same authority, a pier was constructed, during the years 1803 and 1804. Since that period, the population has much increased; and a chapel .of ease has also been erected, which was opened in 1824. ilXHA^M. JLi&©K.2HG ©TIER aCSSAIT, :D:£TOi'?£31'^S. :'.!-v/it^-^'i"nn8]E, DEVONSHIRE. jg Upwards of 1000 men and boys, and more than 100 vessels, are employed here in the fishing and coasting trades, but chiefly in the former. Turbot, soals, plaice, whiting, mackarel, thornback, gurnet, flounders, and many other kinds of fish, are caught, and sent to the Exeter, Bath, Bristol, and London markets ; those for the latter are conveyed by water to Portsmouth, and thence forwarded by land-carriage : the weekly retutns from this trade alone frequently amount to £1000. At an early period the manor of Brixham was held by the Novants and the Valletorts ; but after divers ownerships, it became in modern times divided into quarters ; one of which was purchased by twelve fishermen of Brixham Quay, and divided into as many shares : some of these have been much further sub-divided, yet the owners, be their shares ever so small, have the local denomination of Quay Lords. Upper Brixham, or Brixham Church-town, as it is more frequently called, which is about a mile from Brixham Quay, has partaken of the general improvement of the district. The church is an ancient structure, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but containing little meriting notice, except a cenotaph for the late Mr. Justice Buller. TORQUAY. ToRocjAY, one of the most beautiful and romantic of the English watering-places, is situated at the north-eastern angle of Torbay, about two miles from the extreme point of the promontory called Hope's Nose, which forms its northern boundary. Fifty years ago, this spot presented little indication of rapid advancement : the sea beat wildly over an open beach, along which were scattered the cottages of a few fishermen, who had constructed a rude and temporary pier for the security of their vessels. When, however, its genial and salubrious temperature became generally known, suitable houses were erected for the accommodation of the numerous invalids who resort annually to this coast. Sheltered, as it is, by a range of lofty hills, from the northern and eastern winds, and situated in one of the most enchanting districts of this county, Torquay could not fail to command atten- tion by its local advantages, and to excite admiration by its natural attractions : it was soon, therefore, selected by many respectable individuals as a place of permanent resi- dence; and divers cottages and villas were erected on the picturesque heights in. its immediate neighbourhood. There is no watering-place on the southern coast which possesses so many peculiar and characteristic advantages for invalids, as this does. — The buildings are rapidly increasing ; and it is not only probable that it will, at some future period, become a place of consider- able magnitude ; but that, at no great distance of time, it will be united to its parent village of Tor-mohun. The inhabitants are indebted for a pier, and consequently for the import- tance of Torquay as a place of trade and commerce, to the late Sir Lawrence Palk, Bart, (owner of the manor,) of Haldon House, who, in 1803, obtained an act of parliament for constructing the pier and quay. There are two hotels in Torquay, — the Royal Hotel, an 90 DEVONSHIRE. excellent and well-arranged establishment, conducted by Mr. Poulton, and the Family Hotel of Mr. Marchetti, the restaurateur and confectioner. There is an Episcopal Chapel, erected by the patron of the parish, the Rev. Roger Mallock, of Cockington Court ; an Independent Chapel, built after the skilful designs of Mr. Foulston, of Plymouth; one Calvinist, and one Wesleyan meeting. There are also extensive Reading-rooms, a Library, and Billiard-rooms ; a commodious Market-place, and excellent Public Baths. Its com- merce is principally confined to the importation of coals and timber ; but a trade is also maintained with Newfoundland : a Steam-vessel calls here throughout the usual season, on her voyages between Plymouth, Cowes, and Portsmouth. The Torquay Regatta, which was established a few years ago, takes place annually, either in July or August. There are few parts of Devonshire which will afford more gratification to the naturalist, or the scientific tourist, than Torquay and its vicinity. On the coast, the assemblage of rock scenery is truly magnificent ; and from the hills, the eye ranges over a wide extent of cultivated country, abounding in every variety of landscape, and terminated by the distant outline of the moorland tors. Hence it affords an almost endless profusion of subjects for the pencil of the artist ; and the accompanying representation of Torquay, with its beautiful distances, may be regarded as an accurate specimen of the scenery of the district. On the acclivities, houses and terraces are seen rising one above the other ; whilst the body of the place, with its hotels, baths, shops, &c. chiefly occupy the strand level.* ROLLE CANAL, ROLLE AQUEDUCT, NEAR TORRINGTON. These useful works were undertaken and executed during the years 1 823 and 1824, at the sole expense of Lord Rolle, through whose lands the Canal passes. The latter commences near Great Torrington, about two miles below which it crosses the Torridge river, by a lofty stone Aqueduct of five arches, designed in a style of noble simplicity ; and then flowing onward, the line is continued by a small inclined plane, and terminates in a basin formed on the navigable part of the Torridge, between Weir Gifford and Bideford. Along its course, the noble proprietor has erected several excellent lime-kilns and mills, from which the agriculture of this district has derived much benefit. CASTLE HILL, NEAR SOUTH MOLTON. Castle Hill, about three miles from South Molton, but in the parish of Filleigh, is the splendid seat of Matthew, Earl Fortesque, whose ancestor, Martin Fortesque, Esq. ^son of the chief justice,) obtained that manor by his marriage with an heiress of the Densells. The grounds were laid out in a somewhat formal style, about the year 1740, by the first Earl Fortesque, (then Baron Clinton ;) but the present nobleman has made * We are principally indebted for the above account of Torquay to (he obliging communications of Mr. Blewitt, one of its inhabitants. 3^.. K^Vf THIS PLATE IS RESPECTFrLLY DEDICATED TO THE PROPRIETOR THE RIGHT HOH.HARQN ROLLB. BY THE PUBLISHERS- CASTI-iE-H.TjL£,, J^iEAM SOUTH MOX.TOj^, BE'TtDHSlEUrB.E. THK SEAT OF HUOH.EAai. FORTESCTJE F. S. A » D. C .L TO WHOk fKIS PLATE IS MOST HESPECTFULLY DEDJCATBD devonshirp:. 81 numerous improvements, in accordance with the modern style of landscape gardening. The mansion is seated on the acclivity of a finely-wooded eminence, commanding an extensive prospect ; and several pleasing slopes descend from the terrace to a sheet of water, beyond which the ground again rises, and the view is terminated by a triumphal arch. Various other ornamental buildings are raised in different parts of the park. The shrubbery includes some Portugal laurels of remarkable size, the trunk of the largest of which is between nine and ten feet in circumference ; and in the kitchen garden is a peach tree (the galante sort) of luxuriant growth, reaching to the top of a sixteen-feet wall, and extending its branches nearly fourteen yards. EXETEH CATHEDRAL :— WESTERN FRONT; AND INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR. (two views.) Ex£T£R was first established as the seat of a diocess by King Edward the Confessor, in the year 1030, at which time the respective episcopates of Crediton, in this county, and St. Germans, in Cornwall, were ecclesiastically incorporated, and bestowed on Leofric, Bishop of Crediton, the King's Chancellor and Chaplain. On that occasion, the conventual Church of the Benedictine Monastery of St. Peter, which had been founded at Exeter by King Athelstan in 932, was chosen for the new Cathedral. The incorporation of the two sees was attested by a solemn declaration, or charter, which, on the day of Leofric's installation. King Edward placed with his own hand upon St. Peter's altar : he also, with Eaditha his Queen, seated the new prelate in the Episcopal chair. The authority of Pope Leo IX. had been obtained for this translation of Leofric's see to St. Peter's, at Exeter ; and, shortly afterwards, eight Monks belonging to the old establishment, were transferred to the kindred convent of Benedictines at Westminster; a new institution of twenty-four Secular Canons, with Vicars, &c. being founded by Leofric in their stead. The office of Dean was established by Bishop Bruere, in the year 1225. The Norman Cathedral of Exeter owed its origin to Bishop William Warelwast, whom Baker states to have been a nephew of William the Conqueror. He commenced the building in 1112; and it was slowly continued by his successors in the diocese, until its final completion by Bishop Henry Marshall, who presided from February, 1194, until his decease, in October, 1206. His immediate predecessor, John the Chantor, had been buried in the south tower in June, 1191 ; and it may consequently be inferred, that that part of the edifice had been previously finished. For the noble design and conmiencement of the j^resent Cathedral, we are indebted to the munificence and scientific acquirements of Bishop Quivil, a native of Exeter, who commenced the rebuilding of his Church, in the pointed style of architecture, in the year 1280, almost immediately after his accession to the see.* He began with the eastern part • It has been remarked by Sir Henry C. Englefield, and the observation is substantially correct, that " whatever was the state of the Church at the accession of Bishop Quivil, the uniformity of structure, as it at present stands, X ^ DEVONSHIRE. of the Choir, and proceeding westward, converted the transept of the Norman Church into two Chapels, respectively dedicated to St. James and St. Andrew. He also caused the ponderous Norman towers, which still flank the Cathedral, to be altered internally, so as to constitute the ends of the new, and present, transept. This was effected by pulling down the inner side of each tower to nearly half the height from the ground, and con- structing a vast and massive arch to sustain the remaining upper part.* Considerable sums were expended on the Choir and its ornaments by Bishop Stapeldon, between the years 1307 and 1326 ; yet it was not entirely completed until 1328, in which year, on the 18th of December, the high altar was dedicated, by Bishop Grandisson, to " the Virgin Mary and the blessed Apostles Peter and Paul." Nearly the whole of the nave and its aisles, with the Jube, or rood-loft, the beautiful chapels of St. John Baptist and St. Paul, (adjoining the transept,) and the western facade, were constructed during Grandisson's prelacy, which continued from 1327 to 1369; and he was, himself, interred within St. Radigundes' chapel at the principal western entrance. The annexed Engraving of the Exterior of this Cathedral, will convey an accurate idea of the western front, which, although it may not compete with those of Wells, Peter- borough, Lincoln, and York, by far surpasses the corresponding elevations of most other cathedrals in England. About one-third of the entire height consists of a projecting Screen, which of late years has been called the Grandisson Monument, it having been erected by that prelate, both as an abutment to the nave, and as a gorgeous shrine for his own remains : — yet, according to Hoker's Manuscripts, such was the profane disrespect shewn to his memory in the latter part of Queen Elizabeth's reign, that his grave was violated, his ashes " scattered abroade, and his bones bestowed no man knoweth where." In its architectural design, and variety of adornments, this Screen is very elegant : it is separated by projecting buttresses into three divisions, which correspond with the respec- tive widths of the nave and aisles, and is crowned by a light embattled parapet. Its entire face is covered by a profusion of rich niches, filled with statuary of angels, saints, patriarchs, kings, heroes, &c. ; but corrosion and mutilation have made great havock among the figures, and destroyed all the finer details of the sculpture. The western window exhibits an elaborate and beautiful arrangement of interlacing tracery, and is enriched with stained and painted glass, of comparatively modern execution. The accompanying Interior View, taken from within the railing of the presbytery, and looking westward, chiefly displays the architectural character and arrangements of the seems to prove, beyond a doubt, that the whole, as the unifurm tradition of the different writers has delivered down to us, was the fruit of one great design ; and its singular elegance does as much honour to the taste, as its noble size docs to the munificence of the founder." — Vide " Observations on Bishop Lyttelton's Account" of Exeter Cathedral, as published by the Society of Antiquaries. • That the roof of the new Church was raised considerably higher than that of the old fabric, is evident from the ancient Norman windows, and other ornamental work, which may be seen in each tower, between the present timber roof and the interior stone vaulting ; and which, originally, must have been exposed to view from the exterior close, or area, surrounding the Cathedral. 4* f^ ST. MICHAEl'S TEiaiRAiCE, STOKS aAMAaEE^, DE'VOKSEiaE. 821 pffrmT- ^^^'■- '--.. ' it- ^ ■ • ^ l#Sk DEVONSHIRE. 83 choir, including the Episcopal Throne and the Organ, neither of which has a parallel in England. The forms of the piers and arches, of the clere-story, windows, and vaulting, are here shewn, together with parts of the screen separating the choir from its aisles. The throne, which is wholly of wood, and of great height, is designed in an unusual style of airy elegance : the lower part consists of an enclosed seat, or pew, from the angles of which ascend four buttresses, sustaining a graduated mass of foliated pinnacles, in the pointed style, wrought in open work ; and the whole being so clustered in stages, as to form an acute pyramidical crown, or triplicated mitre. Upon the screen, (the ancient jub^, or rood-loft,) which separates the choir from the nave, stands a majestic Organ, consisting of three divisions ; namely, the great organ, including the swell ; the choir organ ; and the double set of lateral pipes which are affixedto the large columns on each side the screen, at the distance of twenty-five feet from each other, and the largest of which (AAA) is twenty-three feet in length, and one foot four inches in diameter. It was originally constructed in the years 1664 and 1665, by John Loosemore, a lay singer, or organist, of this cathedral ; but it has since been much improved by Shrider, Jordan, and Micheau, and lastly by H. C. Lincoln, who rebuilt it in 1819, and added the dulciana stop. Except that at Haerlem, this instrument is the largest and most powerful of the kind in Europe ; and its tones, though not so loud, possess greater sweetness than those of the Haerlem organ. On its western side, within arched compartments, the organ-screen displays a range of thirteen Paintings, upon stone, representing different events recorded in the Old and New Testaments. These pieces, although ill-drawn and rudely executed, are curious both from their age, which is tliat of the early part of the reign of Ed%vard the Third, and from ranking among the very first examples of oil paintings to be found in this country. The stone seats adjoining the altar-screen, the different chapels and monu- ments, the great eastern and other windows, the minstrels' gallery, the ancient clock, the vast Peter bell, the chapter-house, and many of the brackets and bosses throughout the Cathedral, are all subjects of much interest ; but of which the necessary limits of this publication will not admit of entering into details.* ST. MICHAEL'S TERRACE, STOKE DAMARELL. Stoke Damarell is an extremely pleasant village, occupying an elevated site to the east and north-east of Devonport, and forming a suburban appendage to that town, although the latter, itself, is included within this parish and manor ; — which, with the exception of the government property, and the two estates of Ford and Swilly, belong altogether to Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart., whose progenitors derived this estate from the Morrices, in consequence of an intermarriage with that family. Since the conclusion of the late war. Stoke has greatly increased both in buildings and population : it now contains several rows of respectable houses, a crescent, a terrace, and • For a full account, both historical and descriptive, of the entire edifice, illustrated by views, sections, eleva- tions, ground plan, &c. see Britton's " History and Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Exeter," 4to. 1826. 94 DEVONSHIRE. some private mansions of more than ordinary architectural character ; particularly those of Travers and Belmont. Its principal inhabitants are naval and military officers, retired merchants, and tradesmen : it also furnishes, from its convenient and healthful situation, an occasional retreat from the neighbouring towns ; and, from including many tea-houses and fruit-gardens, is much frequented by parties of pleasure during the summer months. St. Michael's Terhacb, which is situated on high ground, a short distance from Devonport, is a handsome range of buildings, ornamented with Ionic columns, and executed from the drawings of Thomas Foulston, Esq., of Plymouth ; whose classic designs we have had such repeated occasions to extol in the preceding pages. It commands a most extensive view of Plymouth Sound, and of the adjacent country. THE ALBEMARLE VILLAS, STOKE :— WITH STONEHOUSE, &c. IN THE DISTANCE. Nearly at right angles with St. Michael's Terrace, (described in the last article,) but on a rather lower site, are the Albemarle Villas, which, like the Terrace, were designed by Mr. Foulston, and have been completed within these three years. They are of light and cheerful architecture, with verandas, &c. and so ingeniously contrived as to command, from each dwelling, a most beautiful prospect of Plymouth Sound and its vicinage. On the right is seen Mount Edgecombe, and the town of Stonehouse ; and on the left, the haven of Plymouth, with Staddou Heights, and the distant Mewstone rock mingling its blue tints with the ocean. , Besides the buildings described, there are several others of note in Stoke parish. Among them is the Militart/ Hospital, which contains accommodations for 500 patients, and is situated on a southern declivity, terminated by the water of Stonehouse Creek. This noble edifice, which is of grey marble, comprises four large square buildings, similar in size and form, and connected by a piazza, of forty-one arches, supporting a terrace in front of the ward-windows, for the use of convalescents. At a short distance is the Church of Stoke, which is a spacious, yet mean-looking fabric, although the living is considered the most valuable within the diocese of Exeter. At the northern extremity of the parish, on an eminence called Mount Pleasant, is the Block-House, a redoubt defended by a fosse and drawbridge, the ramparts of which com- mand one of the most magnificent panoramic prospects of the island. — The immense Reservoir of the Devonport Water Company is also in this village. Stonehouse is situated to the south and south-east of the Creek, about midway between Devonport and Plymouth ; but it will shortly, by the opening of Union Street and the New Road, form a junction with the latter town. Of late years, the buildings have greatly increased, and they now contain between six and seven thousand inhabitants. The prin- cipal edifice represented in the distant view of this village, is St. George's Chapel, which was rebuilt about the year 1787« BTIICanFASTILiEJl'BSI ABBElf, JbE^V'OSfSHIRE. VSKW OH TMIE milTEm EXE. m^LAM. lE'iS-ETElR. DEVONSHIRE. BUCKFASTLEIGH ABBEY. The gi'eat Cistercian Abbey at Buckfastleigh, or Buckfastre, as anciently called, about three miles from Ashburton, was founded in the year 1137, by Ethelward, son of William de Pomerei, or Pomeroy, in honour of the Virgin Mary ; and its Abbots had the power of inflicting capital punishment within their manor. At the time of its surrender, on the 25th of February, 1538, its annual revenues, according to Dugdale, were rated at £466. lis. 2d| ; out of which the considerable annuity of £120 was granted to Gabriel Donne, or Dunne, the last abbot, probably in reward for his obsequious compliance with the will of the crown. In the following year, the site and immediate demesnes of the Abbey were bestowed on Sir Thomas Dennis, of Holcombe Burnell, in this county, but a considerable share of the previously-appertaining manors was granted to Dr. William Petre, afterwards Sir William Petre, (one of the Commissioners of Inquiry into the state and conduct of the monasteries,) who, in December, 1555, was singularly favoured with a confirmation of this property from Pope Paul the Fourth. Many of the houses in the village of Buckfastleigh, together with a large manufactory, were constructed with materials from the ruins of the Abbey, some fragments of which, clothed in ivy, yet remain. The edifice bearing its name, and depicted in the annexed View, was built over the Abbey vaults, at a recent period, although it assimilates in its architectural design with the latest era of the Tudor style. The parapets are embattled, and the roof is surmounted by octagonal turrets. This building is situated near the banks of the Dart, which gives animation and interest to the beautiful woodland vale extending southward from Ashburton. VIEW ON THE RIVER EXE, NEAR EXETER. Among the numerous beautiful prospects which diversify the course of the river Exe, there are few more entitled to admiration than those in the neighbourhood of Exeter, the magnificent Cathedral of which, pre-eminent in situation, and towering in " pride of place," forms an important feature from every surrounding point of view. At Exeter, the stream passes under a modern bridge, forming a communication with the suburban parish of St. Thomas, and from the banks of the river in that district, the accompanying View was delineated. The Wear, which is of great utility in preserving a suflBcient depth of water for vessels of 150 tons burthen, and upwards, to discharge their cargoes at the quay, is called Trew's Wear, from an engineer of Glamorganshire, of that name, by whom it was constructed in the early part of Queen Elizabeth's reign. The building masked by the poplars, was a large Cotton mill, erected at an expense of nearly £30,000, but it has not been worked since the year 1812. The lofty range seen on the hill is the Colleton Crescent, (raised about thirty years ago,) which has a terrace walk in front, Y 86 DEVONSHIRE. commanding some delightful views over the vale of the Exe, and the intervening country between that river and the brown heights of Haldon. The situation of the Quay is indicated by the masts of shipping which appear above the Wear. THE HOUSE OF CORRECTION, NEAR EXETER. On the summit of a beautiful acclivity, opposite Northernhay, on the north-east side of Exeter, stands the Hodse of Courjection for the county of Devon, which was erected from the appropriate designs of George Moneypenny, Esq., architect, between the years I8O7 and 1810 J the first stone having been laid on the 22d of August, in the former year, and the gaol opened for the reception of prisoners about Michaelmas in the latter. Though constructed upon an extensive scale, and including six distinct masses of building, surrounded by a strong wall, with a view to a due classification of its inmates, it is still, unfortunately, of insufiBcient extent for that most desirable purpose. Its regulations are judicious, and the prisoners are employed in laborious occupations. The County Gaol, which adjoins this edifice, and was erected between the years 1790 and 1794, is principally of brick ; but it has a moor-stone lodge in front, with a flat, leaded roof, whereon con- demned malefactors are executed by means of a temporary apparatus. The offices of governor of each prison is at present united in the same person, Mr. William Cole. In the accompanying View is shewn the path which leads across the valley from the Castle ramparts, at Northernhay, to the House of Correction. VIEW OF EXETER, FROM THE HILL OF PENNSYLVANIA. On the north-eastern side of Exeter is the commanding eminence of Stoke Hill, the top of which was anciently called Mere-pole, that is, the Head of the Moor, but it has been long corrupted into Mary-Pole-Head. From the beauty of its situation, and exten- sive prospects over a rich country, that part of Stoke Hill, upon which the Messrs. Sparks, and Co. (of the General Bank, at Exeter,) have lately erected a row of substantial houses, has been recently called Peimsylvania : from this point, the enchanting scene delineated in the annexed View, bursts upon the eye of the admiring spectator in all its grandeur. In the fore-ground is the pleasant retreat, called Portland Villa, in the middle distance St Sidwell's Church, beyond which are the City and Cathedral of Exeter, and the river Exe ; in the back ground appear the towering heights of Haldon and Penhill, and other eminences, trending away towards Teignmouth. From Mary-Pole-Head itself, the prospects range in a vast sweep over a finely diversified and luxuriant tract. On Stoke Hill is an ancient Entreiichment, of a semicircular form, being about 260 paces in diameter, and enclosing about five acres of ground. This camp is supposed to have l)een occupied by the Danes, when, as may be gathered from the Saxon Chronicle, and Matthew of Westminster, they wintered at Exeter in the years 876 and 877- ro rm. magistrates m- tul coTiim, ruis platf. is respf.ctfiill'y imscribep B^ THE PTTBLISHERS VllEW ©F EXJETEjR. FEOM TE£ HILL OB" FENHSYLVAK3A . THE HEir TICT0A]L2.jmijMiiJje. Tifli THE ©©CX. YA3R©, F©SIE STXEJET. BEVOfJI'CiJK.X. DEVONSHIRE. gj THE NEW VICTUALLING OFFICE, DEVIL'S POINT. The magnificent establishment, now forming by order of Government, on the northern side of the Devil's Point, at Plymouth,* under the general appellation of the New Victualling Office, was commenced in the year 1826, and is to be finished in 1832. It is partly situated on the shore of Stonehouse Pool, and partly on the limestone hill which forms the adjacent promontory. The entire premises comprise an extent of about thirteen acres, of which a considerable portion, perhaps six acres, was recovered from the sea ; the material for that purpose being obtained from the excavations made in levelling and preparing the remainder of the site. Of the immense labour required in this work, some idea may be conceived, when it is stated, that the mass of rock removed was esti- mated at the enormous quantity of 300,000 tons. On the west and north sides, the quays, or wharfs, are bounded by a stupendous sea- wall, 1500 feet in length, which has its face curved inwards at a radius of 71' 6", to resist the internal pressure of the ground, and the foundations of which were excavated and laid by means of diving-bells : the wall also, built against the rough face of the limestone hill, after excavation, is curved in like manner, the height of the same being forty-six feetl On the remaining part of the hill, and overlooking the various buildings of the Victualling- yard, is a Reservoir, (finished with granite and limestone, and surrounded by an iron railing,) measuring about 150 feet by 180 feet, and sufficiently capacious to hold nearly 7000 tons of water : this communicates, by cast-iron pipes, with another Reservoir, two miles distant ; the latter being supplied from the Plymouth Leat. There are three entrances into the Victualling-yard, namely, one from the land, commu- nicating with the approach from Stonehouse ; an entrance from the water, at the western angle ; and an entrance to the basin, near the central part of the sea-wall. The entrance gateway from Stonehouse, which is in the Grseco-Roman style, and wholly of finely- wrought granite, is an imposing and admirable pile of architecture, as well in respect to magnitude, solidity, and fitness of character, as in regard to form, finish, and pure taste. The front towards the street exhibits a grand central arch, and two side-entrances ; the former is decorated with two pilasters, over each of which is an ox's head, boldly cut : parts of the elevation are rusticated ; the blocking course is crowned by a figure of Britannia, with appropriate accompaniments, and the entablature is to bear a suitable inscription. Within the arch, two colonnades, of the simplest Doric character, extend in parallel opposition, each including (between its extreme pilasters and piers) six columns, the shafts of which are plain. The western entrance, which is represented in the annexed Engraving, together with the buildmg called the Long Storehouse, rises from the water by a double • The Devil's Point is a projecting tongue of land, of an irregular form, in the inner part of the Sound, near the entrance into Hamoaze. Its local boundaries are Firestone Bay on the south, Mill Bay on the west, and Stonehouse Pool on the north. Mount Edgcumbe immediately fronts it on the south-west. 88 DEVONSHIRE. flight of steps, and is flanked by massive piers, of chaste design, and excellent workman- ship : the whole approach is of granite. The basin is entered between two semicircular piers, forty-five feet asunder, and measures 250 feet in length, by 200 feet in breadth : all the stone-work is scientifically and beautifully constructed and finished, and the surrounding quays are paved with granite. The several distinct ranges of building, within the Victualling-yard, are as follow : — the Long Storehouse ; the Brewing Establishment ; the Mill and Bake-house ; the Slaughter-house, &c. ; the Melville Storehouse ; the Cooperage ; and the private Dwelling- houses for the superintendent and other assistant officers. The Basin, with its quays, is situated between the brewing and baking establishments, and in front of the Melville Storehouse. The Long Store comprises a substantial range of building, of plain archi- tecture, three stories in height, with its quay in front, 250 feet long and 50 feet broad. The Brewing Establishment (which it is in contemplation to convert into a means of general accommodation) exhibits three ranges, forming three sides of a square, measuring 250 feet by 200 feet ; and has a granite arcade, of five arches in width and two arches in depth, in the central part of the water front. The Mill and Baking Establishment forms a perfect square, the water front and flanks of which answer to those of the Brew-house. The Melville Storehouse forms, also, a perfect square : its principal front, which overlooks the basin, has a rusticated granite archway, of magnificent proportions, as a centre-piece to its elevation. The Cooperage, behind the Brewery, and the Slaughter-house buildings, are of correspondent magnitude and character. The general facing of these buildings is of wrought limestone; but the plinths throughout, together with the dressings, cornices, architraves, &c.. in the principal fronts, are of granite. The door and window frames are of cast-iron ; as are the internal columns of all the warehouses, and the girders, lintels, &c. of the Cooperage ; the latter is floored with four-inch York paving. The Long Store, Melville Store, and Cooperage are roofed with iron ; the top of each roof is covered with copper, and its lateral inclinations with slate. The principal quays command fine views of Mount Edgcumbe, Hamoaze, Mount Wise, and the Dock-yard at Devonport. There being a diflBculty in getting vessels round the Devil's Point in certain states of the wind and tides, a Tunnel has been made from the Sound, near the block-house, on the south, into the back premises of the Melville Storehouse. This Tunnel is finished out- wardly with a granite arch-way ; and the outline of a projecting quay, or pier, has been marked out for future construction. The old Victualling-office is situated below the eastern rampart of the Citadel, at Plymouth, and extends along the bank from the entrance into Catwater to the pier at Sutton Pool.* • For the information detailed in tiie above account, we must acknowledge ourselves indebted to the valuable communications of George Wightwick, Esq. architect, of Plymouth. DEVONSHIRE. 89 ENTRANCE TO THE DOCK-YARD, FORE STREET, DEVONPORT. Fore Street, which constitutes the grand avenue of communication with the Dock- yard, is not only the oldest and principal thoroughfare in Devonport, but also the chief seat of general business within the town. Its buildings are of a mixed and varied cha- racter, as may be seen in the annexed View, which represents the western end of the street, together with the land entrance into the Dock, and some portion of the edifices immediately within-side. Many excellent and well-furnished shops are connected with the houses in Fore Street ; and it also includes the principal inns, two of which, namely, Weakley's Hotel, and Elliot's Royal (or Devonport) Hotel, which confront each other, on the opposite sides of the street, are delineated in the Engraving. They both contain excellent accommodations for visitors ; and there is a spacious and elegant Assembly- room in the latter hotel, in which concerts are occasionally performed. The street front of this building exhibits a lofty elevation of wrought limestone ; and at the entrance are four square pillars, supporting a balcony. Two massive piers, each surmounted by a large globe, or ball, flank the carriage-way into the Dock-yard ; and nearly contiguous is a tall column, upon which is the Dock-bell. The Chapel seen in the View was erected, a few years ago, at the expense of Government, upon the site of the original Chapel, built here in 1/00. It is a neat and substantial edifice, having a square tower, with a set of bells ; and consisting, internally, of a nave and aisles, commodiously fitted up for the accommodation of the officers and artificers of this arsenal. THE BATHS ON THE BEACH, DAW^LISH. Dawlish, until nearly the latter part of the last century, was a mere " fishing cove," but, advanced in reputation, and extended in buildings, it has now become one of the most fashionable watering-places on the southern coast. Its name, written Doeles, in the Domesday Book, and Dmvlis, in ancient deeds, is thought to be derived from Bol-is, a compound, signifying " a fruitful mead in a bottom," or, on " a river's side ;" and this description accords with the situation of the place, which occupies the sides and embouchure of a delightful valley, bounded by sloping eminences, intersected by a stream, and opening (southward) to the sea. Of late years, however, a more artificial character has been given to this spot, by restricting the irriguous wanderings of the stream into a canal-like course, and thus divesting it of much natural beauty. This manor anciently belonged to the Bishop of Exeter, and afterwards to the Dean and Chapter of that diocese, but it was sold a few years ago to Richard Eales, Esq., under the powers of the act for the redemption of the land-tax. Parts of the freehold have been re-sold to different persons for building and other purposes. The modern dwellings are Z 90 DEVONSHIRE. principally concentrated near the middle of the village, along three sides of a quadrangular lawn, having a carriage way surrounding the enclosures; but the older part is at the upper end of the valley near the church, (dedicated to St. Gregory,) which, together with the vicarage house, is beautifully situated, and rendered picturesque by luxuriant elms, and other adjuncts. The body of the church, consisting of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, was rebuilt in 1824, at an expense of £4,000, from designs after the pointed style, by Mr. Patey, architect, of Exeter ; and is attached to an ancient square tower, embattled, with pinnacles. It contains a monument, by Flaxman, of superior merit, for Elizabeth, Lady Pennyman, who died in 1801. On the beach, near the south cliff, are the Public Baths, of recent erection, and forming a very handsome example of the Doric order. They are supplied with water raised from the sea by an hydraulic machine ; and the warm baths are heated by a steam apparatus. The saloons and bath rooms are appropriately fitted up ; and, altogether, this establishment may be regarded as one of the most complete in the west of England. At a short distance are the Public Rooms, which, although on a small scale, are well adapted for pleasurable recreation. A strong, and moveable, jetty was constructed here about nine years ago, to facilitate the amusements of water parties ; and an annual Regatta, taking place in August, has also been established. The walks and drives about Dawlish are extremely pleasant : its nearly centrical situation between the Exe and Teign rivers, and its contiguity to the grounds of Luscombe and Mamhead, giving it the command, within a distance of a few miles on each side, of a most extensive range of picturesque and romantic scenery. The adjacent cliffs, which are chiefly of a dark-red sandstone, are broken into abrupt and rude forms, and in some parts considerable masses, occasionally perforated, stand detached from the main rocks. EXMOUTH, FROM THE GUN CLIFF. ExMOUTH, which is a Chapelry in the parish of Littleham, is situated near the mouth of the river Exe, on the southern coast, at the distance of ten miles from Exeter. Prior to the Conquest, the manor of Littleham was given to the monastery of Horton, in Dor- setshire, by Ordgar, Earl of Devon, but in 1 122, it was transferred with other lands to the abbot and convent of Sherbourn. After the dissolution, it was granted to Sir Thomas Dennis, whose descendant by the female line, Henry, Lord RoUe, of Bicton, is now owner. Holinshed states, that a castle was erected at Exmouth to defend the harbour ; and tradition affirms it to have stood iit Gun-point, where vestiges of defence were dis- tinctly to be traced. In king John's reign, this appears to have been one of the principal ports in Devonshire ; and, in the expedition against Calais, in 1347, it furnished ten ships, and one hundred and ninety-three mariners. Exmouth Fort, which had been garrisoned for the king during the civil war, was blockaded by Colonel Shapcote, in February, 1646, THE BATHS OH THE BEACm, BA^yfMSM, 3JEVOHSEKRE. JEXMiDTUTM ]?mOM TffllE ffilUST ClLUlfF. roE'VOSirSmiliDE. BEIRIRX- FiffiMEKOT CASTILIE. HEAR TOTHESS. T©)&(g)lDrAT, EiE''V©EfSH)[]EE. DEVONSHIRE. 9I and taken on the 15th of March following, with nineteen pieces of ordnance, and a great quantity of stores and ammunition. Exmouth, which is one of the oldest and best frequented watering-places in this county, is said to have derived its fashionable celebrity from the accidental circumstance of one of the judges, while on the circuit, having derived great benefit from bathing here, about one himdred and twenty years ago, when the place was only a small hamlet, and its inhabitants mostly fishermen. Since that time, its buildings and population have much increased, and it now includes every requisite accommodation for invalids and visitors The river, at this part, though somewhat difificult to enter, in consequence of two projectings and banks, called the Warren Sands, forming a bar on each side, affords sufficient depth of water for ships of considerable burthen. The village, which is irregularly built, chiefly occupies the base and acclivity of the Beacon Hill, a proniontorlal elevation, commanding one of the finest views in the west of England, including the country from Berry Head, (the northern boundary of Torbay,) to the city of Exeter, and its adjacent heights ; this pros- pect is beautifully diversified by the river Exe, and the noble grounds of Powderham and Mamhead, with other interesting adjuncts. Upon the Beacon Hill, and forming a con- spicuous object to a great distance, is the new Church, which was built by Lord Rolle, at the expense of £12,000, in the year 1825. It is a striking example in the pointed style of architecture ; consisting of a nave, chancel, and side aisles excellently fitted up, and a well-proportioned and lofty square tower surmounted by pinnacles. On the Strand are some good shops and lodging-houses, with a convenient market- place lately erected by Lord Rolle ; but the more eligible dwellings are on the Cliff, facing the sea towards the south. Upon this eminence are two hotels and boarding-houses, one of which includes a subscription library, billiard, and card rooms. On the western beach are two pleasing specimens of Grecian architecture, built after the temples of Theseus and the Winds ; these are private residences. Various improvements are under consideration ; among which is that of a new line of road, about a mile in length, to facilitate the com- munication between this place and Sidmouth, and to be flanked with respectable cottage villas. BERRY POMEROY CASTLE, NEAR TOTNESS. There are few remains of antiquity which excite so much interest as Berry Pomeroy Castle, which, originally built in the Norman times, was not effectually dismantled until the era of the civil wars in the reign of Charles the Second. Situated in a most romantic district, and towering boldly amidst the leafy monarchs of the forest, upon the brow of a rocky eminence, rising from the bosom of a picturesque and delightful valley, — these ruins have peculiar charms, both for the artist of taste and the amateur of rich natural scenery. Berry Castle was erected by Ralph de Pomerei, (or, as written in later ages, Pomeroij,) one of the followers and chieftains of the Norman Conqueror ; by whom his services were 92 DEVONSHIRE. rewarded with the grant of fifty-eight valuable lordships in this county. The distinguished military pre-eminence which this chivalric family long maintained in the West of England, has imperishably associated their name with the romantic annals of Devonshire and Cornwall ; and many a legend " wild, drear, and poetical," is connected with the ivied walls and mouldering relics of this their proud abode. Tlie approach to the Castle is through a thick wood, extending along the slope of a range of hills that entirely intercepts any prospect to the south ; and on the opposite side is a steep rocky ridge, covered with " knarled" oaks. In its plan, the ancient fortress was quadrangular : its only entrance, which was from the south, between two hexagon towers, consisted of an arched avenue, (twelve feet in height, and thirty feet in length,) defended by a double gateway, with portcullises and machicolations, and further strength- ened by angular bastions. On the gateway, (which is enshrouded in a rich vest of ivy,) in front, may be yet traced the arms of Pomeroy, viz. a Lion rampant. Gules, within a bordure invected Sable. A fine view over the adjacent country is obtained from the western tower. The Pomeroys were allied by marriage to the Earls of Cornwall, the Raleighs, the Edgcumbes, and other leading families in the western counties ; and, until as late a period as the reign of Henry the Third, they enjoyed the privileges and dignity of peers of the realm. In 1102, William de Pomerai granted the lordship of Berry to the monks of Gloucester, but it was subsequently redeemed by his brother ; and their descendants (either direct or collateral) continued to reside at the Castle until the time of Edward the Sixth ; when, on the attainder of Sir Thomas de Pomeroy, who was deeply implicated in the rebellion of 1549, it was transferred to the Seymour family, though by what means has not been clearly ascertained. After the Seymours had become its possessors, they commenced a magnificent structure within the quadrangular court of the old Castle, at an expense, as stated by Prince, in his " Worthies of Devon," of upwards of £20,000 ; yet the building was never finished. The part then completed, though mostly in ruins, is still the most conspicuous portion of the whole, and it may at once be recognized by the antiquary. The interior is represented as having been exceedingly splendid ; and the number of apartments as so great, that " it was a good day's work for a servant to open and shut the casements belonging to them." Some repairs were made, a few years ago, by its present owner, the Duke of Somerset : but Berry Pomeroy Castle is not habitable — the residence of the Seymour family, when in these parts, is at " Berry Great House," an old mansion near the church. No tourist should leave Devonshire without visiting these interesting ruins, and the enchanting district in which they are situated. They are seen with most advantage from the banks of the rivulet at the bottom of the valley, from which spot the accompanying Illustration was delineated. SiC TiiS ■ ^OS^S . X)^-fOjS SHIRE. ™. S.AT 0. .0» KO:^., B^0» HO.... ^ ^^ ^«^ P"X. IS «OST ^BPBCTr»U.r^B^«..^^^ THK SBAT OF miiMng0. CLhuvfbr!?, .^itttquitie?, h. (fnQraoeii m %\u\ bn l^i- Pi1it. itlillixliYmi. §tarlint|.(i!liaUk ITfitiliJr.lBatiw^.&f FISHXR, SON X: C" LONDOTS, 1831 6 CORNWALL. the aspect of a sandy desert. The substratum, in most parts of the county, consists of that stratified rock usually called argillacious slate, or schistits, but provincially named killas. There are four considerable districts of granite and also three narrow slips called ire- stone, or iron-stone, which bound the granite near the Land's-end, and in the vicinity of Redruth. Some thin beds of lime-stone occur between Liskeard and the Tamar, and some strata of various-coloured clay are found in different parts of the county. Although the high grounds of Cornwall, and those particularly near the north coast, are generally dreary, bleak, and almost barren ; there are many fertile, highly cultivated, and finely wooded valleys, on the southern side, and near the western border, of the county. The parks and plantations of Port-Eliot, Carclew, Tehidy, Tregothnan, Clowance, &c. present many fine and truly beautiful scenes ; whilst the banks of the Tamar are distin- guished by a succession of picturesque features, and combinations of wood, water, and rock. Gilpin, in his " Remarks on the Western Counties," has described the chief beauties of this river. Opposed to, and greatly dissimilar from, the districts here referred to, is the northern coast of the county, breasting the Bristol Channel. In many places the rocks rise almost perpendicular from the turbulent waves ; either advancing in bold promontories, or receding into bays and chasms. Amidst a great variety of striking objects, some of which will be delineated in the engravings of this work, may be specified the magnificent groups of granite rocks at the Land's-end, Cape Cornwall, and Castle-Treryn ; the rocks of schistus at Tintagel, and the stupendous rock near Basset's-Cove, with a lofty cave or chasm, called Tabbin's Hole. The rocks of serpentine, near the Lizard Point, exhibit a great variety of picturesque forms. The interior of the county, on the downs or moors, contains many remarkable natural objects, which attract at once the curiosity and speculations of the geologist and anti- quary. The most noted of these are the Cheese-wring, a large mass of granite, consisting of several blocks, piled one upon another, and, from being rounded, they resemble immense cheeses. These are situated on a hill, in the midst of wild moors, near some circles of stones, commonly considered of Druidical origin. There is also a larg€ block of stone, in the parish of Constantine, singularly placed on the ends of two other stones : two logon, or rocking stones, are to be seen respectively in the parish of St. Just, and at Castle-Treryn : there was a third in the parish of Sithney, called Men-Amber, which is said to have been thrown down in the time of Cromwell's wars. On Carnbre-Hill, and in other parts of the county, are masses of large stones, commonly called Cairns, or Karns ; and among them are some stones, having round hollows, which different anti- quaries have denominated rock-basins, and have ascribed them to artificial origin, and as made for superstitious uses. Several modern geologists, however, are decidedly of opinion, that they are of natural formation, and have no connexion with the religious ceremonies of former times ; but these questions are not yet decided. Near the middle of the county, between St. Austell and Bodmin, is a singular mass of rock, rising out of a plain country : at its summit, and partly formed by the natural stone, a monkish devotee, of old, con- CORNWALL. 7 structed a small chapel. This being dedicated to St. Roche, or Rock, has given name to the chapel, mount, and neighbouring church-town. According to Carew, in his " Survey of Cornwall," the greatest eminences of the county- are those of " Brownwelly, Hinxten, Rowtor, St. Agnes, Henborough, the four boroughs of Roche, Carnbray, and the two Castellan Danis." Henborongh, which he calls the Cornish " Arch-beacon," affords the most extensive views over parts of Devonshire, and nearly the whole of Cornwall. Other noted hills, are Godolphin-Ball, Tregoning-hill, Crowan-beacon, Cam-mark, Kil-hill, Cadon-borough, and Carraton-down. Colonel Mudge, in his " Trigonometrical Survey," describes Brownwelly as the highest land in Cornwall, it being 1368 feet above low-water mark; Carraton-hill, 1208 feet; Kil-hill, 1067 feet; Henborough, 1034 feet; and Cadon-borough, 1011 feet. The peculiar geographical position and character of Cornwall, combining with its surface-features, render it striking, romantic, and singularly picturesque in scenery. Its rocky shores to the north and west ; the irriguous and varied coast of the south ; its mountain streams, bays, and lakes ; the diversified scenes on and near the bank of the Tamar ; with the ever-changing aspect of the sea to the north and to the south, confer on Cornwall a remarkable scenic character, unlike any other portion of the island. The ruined and commanding castles of the county, as well as the Tors, and Mount's-bay, with the insulated Mount St. Michael, within the last, all combine to enhance the interest, and augment the picturesque charms, of this romantic district. In the provincial traditions, marvellous stories, and legends appertaining to many places, the traveller and topographer will find much to awaken and gratify curiosity. The customs, pursuits, and hfibits of the miners of this county, when compared and contrasted with those of the maritime inha- bitants of the coast, are not only greatly at variance with each other, but also very unlike any classes of the English peasantry. Whilst the former may be said to pass the greater part of their lives, like moles, in the murky recesses of the earth, the latter are almost perpetually occupied on the restless waters of the ocean. Both are exposed to imminent dangers, subject to many privations and hardships, and nearly shut out from that social intercourse which constitutes so essential an object in the happiness of man. Of the Mines of the county, we have only room to remark, that they abound in lead, copper, and tin ; and that they constitute now, as they have done from time immemorial, the staple riches and most important objects of the district. From the writings of Strabo, Herodotus, and other ancient authors, it appears that the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans, visited the coasts of Cornwall, for tin; and Diodorus Siculus, in the reign of the Emperor Augustus, gives an account of the digging and preparation of this metal by the Cornish Britons. From the Norman conquest of England to the present time, many laws have been made for the management of the mines and their produce, and for the adminis- tration of justice to all parties. Certain places in this county, and in Devonshire, are called Stannary Towns, where legal courts are held, and the chief business transacted which relates to the mines and metals. 8' CORNWALL. The eldest son of the King of England, as Duke of Cornwall, a title first granted to Edward the Black Prince, in 1337, possesses great privileges, powers, and revenues, from the county. " The present gross amount of these revenues is £22,000 ; of which £8,500 arises from the tin duty, in the county of Cornwall, and £3,500 from rents of manors, lines, &c. Previous to the late war with France, the tin duty alone amounted to nearly £14,000 per annum." (Lysons's " Magna Britannia," Cornwall.) The Dukes of Cornwall formerly possessed the magnificent and almost impregnable fortresses of Launceston, with the borough, manor, and honour ; Trematon Castle, with the park, manor, and borough of Saltash ; the borough, manor, and castle of Tintagel; and several other manors, parks, towns, and fisheries, in the county. Cornwall is at present divided into nine hundreds, which are again subdivided into 203 parishes, all of which are under the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the see of Exeter. According to Mr. Whitaker, St. Germans, in this county, was the seat of a bishop in the Anglo-Saxon era, which see was removed to Crediton, in Devonshire, in the time of Canute. In Cornwall, the oflBce of rural dean is still continued, and that officer is required to make an annual return of the state of the churches in his deanery. In the monastic ages there were the following religious houses in this county : Austin priories, at Bodmin, Launceston, and St. Germans ; cells of Austin monks, at St. Anthony in Roseland ; Benedictine priories, at Tywardreth, on St. Michael's Mount, at Minster ; the Black Friars had a convent at Truro ; the Gray Friars, another at Bodmin ; and the Knights Hospitallers had a preceptory at St. Teath, near Camelford. W. Miller sculpt tt.AlffM(GIES'2'©H (SASTiLlE, ^©lESfWAlIL.. T. AUom del lLATBSJffllSSircDS!'/ ©IHWmffliai. iSOiaSfWAILlL, CORNWALL. 9 LAUNCESTON, CASTLE AND CHUKCH. The ancient borough and market town of Launceston, anciently called Dunhevet, commands the attention, and excites the curiosity, of the topographer and antiquary in an eminent degree. Though the borough and parish of Launceston consist of only 252 houses, yet as the town may be said to embrace the adjoining parishes of St. Thomas and St. Stephen, with the borough of Newport, it included 273 houses more, according to the parliamentary report of 1821. These houses are dispersed over the sides and summits of two hills. The conspicuous and singular towers and walls of its venerable castle, now romantic in ruin, give indication of its former greatness and glory. From time immemorial, the town, with a fortress, seems to have been a place of conse- quence ; for William the Conqueror dispossessed the Saxon Earl of Cornwall of this castle, and conferred it, with the manor, honour, and extensive jurisdiction, on his half-brother, Robert, Earl of Morteyne, or Moreton, whom he also created Earl of Cornwall. From the time of that event to the reign of Edward the Third, it continued the chief strong-hold, or castle, of the Earls, and was successively enlarged and strengthened, to support the domineering power of its governors, or to repel assailants. The numerous dependants and tenants of the Earl were bound to perform certain garrison-duty, whenever commanded by their lord. From its situation, as commanding the chief pass into the county, and its formidable position anct construction, this castle was always considered an important post; and was, consequently, subject to perpetual siege and defence in times of war. In the time of Charles the First, it was possessed both by the Parliamentary and King's soldiers ; and was successively assailed and defended by both parties. According to a survey taken in 1337, the castle was then ruinous ; there were, however, a hall with two chambers, a smaller hall, called the earl's chamber, and another small hall, also two chapels, other rooms, and prisons. A survey of 1650, describes it as much out of repair, and its hall and chapel was then le-^elled to the ground. Since that time its build- ings have progressively diminished, and very little remains but portions of the outer walls and part of the keep-tower. The latter was singularly designed and constructed to form a place of final retreat and security for its principal inmates, when all other parts had been conquered and occupied by an enemy. The annexed views will convey an idea of the situa- tion and ruinous character of the keep and walls of the castle, as well as of the romantic position and appearance of the town. The upright engraving is taken from the village of St. Stephen's, north of the town, whilst in the other print that village is shewn in the distance. The town itself was originally dependent on, and under the protection of, the castle ; hence we find that it was surrounded by lofty embattled walls, in which were three strong fortified gate-houses. Leland, in the time of Henry VIII., described the castle as " the strongest, though not the biggest," he had ever seen " in any auncient worke in England. Lawnston, otheruise Dunevet, is a walled towne, ny yn cumpas a myle, but C 10 CORNWALL, now minus. On the north side of the towne is a castle, standing on a hye hille with yn the sayd towne, hath 3 rownd wardes. Part of the castel standing north-west ys parcel of the walle of the towne. There be withyn this town 3 gates and a postern, also a gate to go out of the castel ynto the great parke. The wall of Dunlievet ys hy, larg, and strong, and defensably set." The greater part of the walls of the town have disappeared, and the western gate has been taken down, but those on the north and south sides still remain, tliough much altered : the south gate-house contains a room, now used as the town gaol. In the reign of Henry III. Dunhevet was made a free borough, by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, who granted various privileges to the burgesses, and also gave them a piece of ground to build a guild-hall upon, to be held of him and his successors, by the annual payment of a pound of pepper. Queen Mary, in the year 1553, incorporated the borough by a charter, appointing a mayor, eight aldermen, and a recorder, to govern the town. As early as the reign of Edward I. this borough sent members to parliament, and it has ever since possessed that privilege. The number of voters is limited to sixteen. In the time of King John a market was held here on Sundays, but the burgesses then paid the monarch five marks for a license to change the market-day to Thursday. There are now two weekly markets, and six annual fairs. A large manufactory for serges is established here. An act of parliament was passed in the thirty- second year of Henry VIII. to encourage the rebuilding of certain decayed towns, among which Launceston was named. Though little improvement was generally produced by this statute, it appears from Norden's state- ment, written about 1590, that Launceston was " much repayred in building, and increased in wealth, of late years." Launceston, with seven other towns, was invested with peculiar monastic privileges in 1540, when an act of parliament was passed to abolish the right of sanctuary, excepting to churches and church-yards, which had then become a protection and guard to almost every species of crime and roguery. By this act, however, Launceston was made a sanctuary for life for all criminals, but such as had been guilty " of murder, rape, highway-robbery, burglary, house-burning, or sacrilege." In the reign of James I. the infamous privilege of sanctuary was wholly abolished. Formerly the county assizes was held wholly at Launceston ; but Richard, king of the Romans, having built a palace at Lostwithiel, trans- ferred the assizes to that place : the men of Launceston, however, petitioned, paid a fine, and had the assizes restored to their town. By an act of parliament in 1715, it was deter- mined that this branch of county business should be alternately transacted at Bodmin and Launceston, and so it continued till 1727, when the latter town again obtained the exclu- sive privilege, which continued for eleven years ; it was then finally settled to resume the alternate plan: the spring assizes is now held at Launceston, and those of the summer circuit at Bodmin. County gaols are consequently built at both towns. It is a singular circumstance in the history of the town, shewing that the monastic clergy congregated around, and sought protection from the castle, that besides the chapel of St. Thomas, within the walls of the fortress, there were other chapels respectively dedi- CORNWALL. 11 cated to St. Giles, at Tresunny, Walrington, and Laneast, the last of which is made a parish church: St. Catharine, St. Sidwell, and St. Mary Magdalen, in the townj the latter of which was made the parish church in 1520, by Bishop Voisey. There was a company of minstrels belonging to this church. According to the Launceston charters, there were two other chapels dedicated to St. John and St. James. There were also formerly a priory and an hospital in the town : the tithes belonging to the former are vested in the Duke of Northumberland, who had a seat at Werrington, near Launceston. Connected with, and constituting part of, Launceston, are the parishes of St. Stephen and St. Thomas, both joining, and forming a northern suburb. Previous to the Conquest, the Church of St. Stephen was collegiate ; and Reginald, Earl of Cornwall, endeavoured to prevail on King Stephen to establish the western See at this place ; but Warlewast, bishop of Exeter, successfully opposed this scheme, and suppressed the college of secular canons, founding in its stead a priory of Austin monks, which was attached to the church of St. Thomas. Messrs. Lysons conjecture, that the Norman, which they call Saxon, door-way to the White Hart inn, Launceston, was part of the priory built in the time of Bishop Warlewast. The borough of Newport, part of the parish of St. Thomas, has sent members to Parlia- ment ever since the reign of Edward VI. The right of election is vested in freeholders, whether resident or not, and in the inhabitants paying scot and lot ; yet the number of electors is only 62, who are under the influence of the Duke of Northumberland, as lord of the manor. His influence is also predominant in Launceston itself. In the parish of St. Thomas is an ancient encampment called Kestle, or Castle- wood. LAUNCESTON CHURCH, which is represented in the annexed Engraving, is certainly the most singular ecclesias - tical edifice of the county, not only in design, but in materials and execution. Messrs. Lysons call it " the most remarkable building in Cornwall." It is built of granite, and covered with a profusion of sculptured ornaments, panels, and letters. Among the first are several representations of the pomegranate, the rose, and various shields of arms, with the Prince of Wales's feather, or plume. The south porch, which is large, and profusely adorned with sculpture, has a room over it, and basso relievos in front, repre- senting St. George and the Dragon, and St. Martin. On a series of shields, extending round the building between the basement and windows, is the following inscription ; each letter of which is on a shield — "ave maria gracie, plena, dominus tecum SPONSAS, AMAT SPONSAM MARIA, OPTIMAM PARTEM ELEGIT, O QUAM TERRIBILIS AC METUENDUS EST LOCUS ISTB, VERE ALIUD NGN EST HIC, NISI DOMUS DEI ET PORTA CELI." This Church consists of a nave, and two ailes of uniform length, with three highly-pointed gables at the east end, a tower at the west end, and a porch on the south side. At the east end, beneath the central window, is a niche, containing a monument, probably of the 12 CORNWALL. founder. Within the Church are memorials for the families of Lawrence, Pyper, and Vyvyan. An epitaph on Sir Hugh Pyper, Knt, describes him as " Lieutenant-governor of the royal citadel and island of Plymouth, captain of the castle of Exeter, constable of the castle of Launceston, alderman and representative for the borough of Dunheved," &c. He died in 1687, aged 76. ST. AUSTLE. This is a considerable market-town, 34 miles west of Launceston, and 257 from London, According to the population returns of 1811, here were 3686 inhabitants; and in 1821 they had increased to 6175- When Leland visited Cornwall, in the time of Henry VIIL, St. Austle was a poor and small village ; but in consequence of its vicinity to the pro ductive mine of Polgooth, and other valuable mines, it progressively increased in popula tion and wealth. About the year 1760, a turnpike-road from Plymouth to Falmouth, the Land's-end, &c. was made to pass through this town, and consequently brought an accession of visitors and business to it. There is a considerable weekly market on Fridays, and two fairs in the year. Hals, Borlase, Whitaker, and Drew, have entered into disquisitions on the origin and early history of St. Austle ; and the opinions and statements of all the three former, and other topographers, are brought under rational review by the latter well-informed writer, (in the " History of Cornwall," vol. ii. p. 41, &c.) In describing the Church, the tower of which constitutes the principal object in the annexed View, Mr. Drew says — " Nothing can be more obvious than the two distinct orders of architecture, in two parts of the Church. In the eastern portion, which scarcely occupies more than one-fourth part of the whole dimensions, every mark of remote antiquity conspicuously appears : the pillars, within, are low, large, irregular, and clumsy; the walls are remarkably thick, and supported by buttresses without ; the stones are small, and no ornament of any kind is visible." This part, Mr. Drew presumes, may have been the " Chantry Chapel," which Philip Cornwallis gave to the Church of Cleabury in 1291 . Its style of architecture, however, indicates a much earlier date. The western end, or more modern Church, with its lofty and richly ornamented tower, are said to have been built at the commencement of the fifteenth century; and, like most of the ecclesiastical buildings of that age, the windows, doors, and walls are profusely adorned with sculptured figures, muUions, tracing, &c. The southern porch and tower are more peculiarly adorned ; afld on the former is an inscription, which has excited the curiosity and conjecture of many anti- quaries to decipher. Round the second story of the tower, in richly ornamented niches, are eigliteen statues, representing the Apostles, &c. An interesting and full account of the town and church of St. Austle, may be found in Hitchiu's and Drew's History of Cornwall, vol. ii. TKEKTH - (CASTLE. FKOM JPOJRT CAIRKO'W CC'V.l.. CvA;i'rWAI.l,. THE 1.00*11 - ROCK, UTTOER THE BIRD . IN THE DlSTAWCl, . JPEHTZACTCE, COJRHWAJLIi. CORNWALL. 13 CASTLE TRERYN, FROM PORT CARNOW-COVE. Among the truly romantic and interesting coast scenery of Cornwall, that at the south- western angle of the county, where the celebrated Logan, or rocking-stone, and the lofty granite rocks, called Treryn Castue, are situated, and over-hang the sea, is much noted and visited by all classes of travellers. About eight miles south-west of Penzance, and three miles south-east of the Land's-End, are the objects above alluded to, in the parish of St. Levan ; and also two old farm-houses, formerly seats of ancient Cornish families, of the names of Davies and Bosistow. In the same parish are St. Levan's Well, with an oratory, remains of an old building, called Port Chapel, and also of another called Chapel Carnow. The latter gives name to the bay, or cove, shewn in the foreground of the annexed View. In the distance is a reef of rocks jutting into the sea, on the summit of one of which is a large single mass of stone, weighing about sixty tons, resting on a sort of pivot, so near the centre that the whole block may be easily made to oscillate, or log, to and fro. " The foundation of the whole," observes Dr. Paris, in his very interesting ' Guide to Mount's Bay and the Land's-End, 1828,' " is a stupendous group of granite rocks, which rise in pyramidal clusters, to a prodigious altitude, and overhang the sea." The uppermost mass just noticed, from its being so easily moved, has created astonishment amongst the illiterate, and even given origin and currency to many fabulous stories, with readers and writers. Some of these describe it as having been artificially formed by the Druids, and employed by them to over-awe and terrify the vulgar. " Geologists," however, says Dr. Paris, " readily discover, that the only chisel ever employed has been the tooth of time, — the only artist engaged, the elements. Granite usually disintegrates into rhomboidal and tabular masses, which, by the further operation of air and moisture, gradually lose their solid angles, and approach the spheroidal form." Some years ago, the upper, or logging- stone, was thrown from its equilibrium by the bodily exertions of some sailors ; but, a general cry of indignation having been raised against this wanton act, it was shortly afterwards reinstated in nearly its original position by the perpetrators of the mischief, who, whilst thus making honourable amends for their previous folly, evinced great ingenuity and skilfulness. — On three sides Castle Treryn is wholly formed by perpendicular rocks, laved by the ever-restless sea; but on the land side there are two formidable ramparts and ditches, one within the otherj stretching in a semi-circular form from the edges of the cliffs. PENZANCE. This most western town of Cornwall, and of England, is seated at the north-western edge of Mount's Bay, with a wild hilly country bounding its other sides. The land in the immediate vicinitjr, on a substratum of hornblende and argillaceous slate, is so noted for extra- ordinary fertility and richness, that about one thousand acres of this soil are calculated to D 14 CORNWALL. produce an annual rental of £10,000. The town is large and populous, but irregularly built : parts of two of its streets are represented in the annexed Engraving. A com- modious pier, extending more than six hundred feet in length, has been constructed here by the Corporation, for the purpose of communicating with vessels, and for the accommodation of trade : at high spring-tides there are twenty-two feet of water at this pier. Though Penzance may be considered an old town, the mother church is at Maddern, or Maddron, about one mile and a half distant. It is, however, provided with a Chapel of ease ; and the Wesleyan Methodists, Independents, Baptists, Quakers, and Jews have also their respective places of worship. A considerable export trade in tin and pilchards belongs to the town ; the vessels for which, with frigates, excise-cutters, and steamers, give to its commodious bay the appearance of a commercial port. Being one of the stannary, or coining towns, for tin, a stranger will be surprised in seeing many thousand blocks of that metal lying, unguarded, in the street. Each block of tin weighs about 320 lbs., and is valued from £18 to £20. The tin intended for the Mediterranean trade is here formed into bars, whilst that designed for the East Indies is cast into ingots. A society was established here in 1814, by the active exertions of Dr. Paris, aided by the nobility and gentry of the county, for the promotion of mineralogical and geological science. It has published some volumes of highly interesting papers. Penzance was the birth-place of that learned and scientific philosopher. Sir Humphry Davy ;* a most interesting memoir of whom has lately been produced by Dr. Paris, who in that, as in the " Guide to Mount's Bay," and his other literary works, has evinced considerable learning, discri- mination, and varied talent. TOWER OF PROBUS CHURCH. Carew, in his " Survey of Cornwall," published in 1602, states, that Probus Tower was built " within compasse of our remembrance, by the well-disposed inhabitants." Hence the age of this handsome edifice may be nearly ascertained : but neither the architect, nor the names of the " well-disposed" people, are put on record. The Church-town itself does not appear to have possessed any wealthy inhabitants, even then, or now : but there were manors and residences within the parish, belonging to, and occupied by, influential gentry in the sixteenth century. Most of the seats, however, have been reduced to farms; and the manors are possessed by the Hawkins' family of Trevithan, some of whom settled in Cornwall in 1554. " Probus," says Drew, in ' the History of Cornwall,' " has been rendered famous by the number of its chapels, and the celebrity of its collegiate church j and the appropriation of its revenues was not without its correspondent privileges." The Church- Tower, represented in the annexed Engraving, is justly noted among the architectural • The House shewn near the centre of the annexed print, beneath and in front of the market-house tower, was his natal habitation. CORNWALL. 15 beauties of the county. It is wholly built of granite, finely cut to a smooth surface, and with flush joints ; and its different stages, or stories, are adorned with various ornaments. Above an enriched basement, the north and south sides have three divisions of varied design ; the lowest being occupied by three canopied niches, intended for statues ; the second with a single window and a clock-dial ; whilst the third story has a double window, with panelling above : the whole is surmounted by an embattled parapet, having clustered pinnacles at the angles, and other pinnacles rising from the centre of each face. This design resembles many of the fine Somersetshire towers, as well as that of Magdalen College, Oxford ; but, being executed in stone of very different quality, it presents a very different appearance. The height of the tower to the battlements is one hundred and eight feet ; it is surmounted by eight clustered pinnacles, five in each cluster, all adorned with crockets and finials : the upper story of this edifice is truly rich and elegant. The Church of Probus, and the rectorial estate, called Lan probus, are recorded, in the Doomsday Survey, as belonging to a College of secular canons, which had been founded here, for a dean and five prebendaries, before the Conquest, and was not dissolved until the time of the Reformation. Within the Church are sepulchral Crosses for John and Cecelia Wol- vedon, of Wolvedon, or Wulvedon, alias Golden, in this parish. After the decease of the former, in 1512, his estates passed to the Tregians, who erected a magnificent mansion at Golden, of which only some dilapidated parts now remain. The Vicarage House, which retains the appellation of the Sanctuary, is the only vestige of the ancient collegiate character of Probus ; but Cornelly and Merther are yet regarded as its daughter churches. ST. KNIGHTON'S KIEVE, NEAR BOSCASTLE. The rocky and very wild scenery of the country in the vicinity of Boscastle, Tintagel, &c. in the northern parts of Cornwall, excites at once the admiration and awe of travellers who visit this unfrequented part of our island. Dr. Maton, in his " Obsei-vations on the Western Counties," says, " the country around is bleak and rugged, and the whole forms such a dismal picture of desolation, that we began to imagine ourselves removed by enchantment out of the region of civilization." Boscastle lies in a highly romantic situation, with its cottages placed in a deep valley, or dale, washed by a small inlet, or creek, of the sea, whilst fine mountainous eminences crowd around, intersected by various rugged chasms, and occasionally clad with brushwood. Amongst these rocks and dales is the very fine Cascade represented in the annexed Engraving ; and which, apparently, pours forth its foaming streams from dark and cavernous inlets within the rocky sides of a romantic ravine. 16 CORNWALL. PENTILLIE CASTLE. On the western banks of the Tamar, about three miles south of Cotehele, but in the parish of Pillaton, is Pentillie Castle, the beautifullj^-situated mansion of John Tillie Coryton, Esq., a maternal descendant of an ancient family of that name, which was seated at Coryton, in Devonshire, as remotely as the reign of Henry III. This edifice stands upon a fine commanding eminence, rising abruptly from the river, and having its acclivities luxuriantly wooded. " From lawns smooth shaTen, and from uplands gay With waving crops, — from dells and brooklets clear, And umbrage of the breezy hill, we turn : — For see ! at once bold bursting on the eye, Pride of the stream, Pentillie rears its groves ; Whilst round its foot, involved as the folds Of the sleek serpent, winds the conscious flood In sinuous course, as ever loth to steal The voyager from scenes so passing fair." Carrington'a Banks of Taiaar. This mansion, which was erected about twenty years ago by its present owner, derives its site and name from a battlemented house that had been built here by James Tillie, or Tilly, Esq., (the son of a labourer at St. Keverne,) who, having been taken as a groom into the service of Sir John Coryton, Bart., the elder, eventually became his attorney and steward, and the guardian of his children. In these situations, and by two advantageous marriages, and, according to Hals, by other means, incommensurate with honesty and the laws, he became very affluent, secured the estate, and, by " false representations" and " a great sum of money," obtained the honour of knighthood from James II. He died in 1712, and, having no legitimate issue, bequeathed Pentillie to his nephew, James WooUey, who assumed the name of Tillie ; and whose grand-daughter, an heiress, was married to the late John Corytxtn, Esq., and thus re-conveyed this estate to the family of its former pos- sessors. His son, John Tillie Coryton, Esq., is enumerated, by Lysons, among the greater Cornish landholders of the present day. Pentillie Castle, as shewn in the accompanying view, forms a beautiful group in the architectural style of the later period of the Tudor age : except, however, its turrets and embattled parapets, it exhibits but little of the castellated character. It was built from designs by W. Wilkins, Esq., architect, author of " Magna Graecia" and other valuable works ; yet still more distinguished by his buildings at Downing College, and King's Col- lege, in the University of Cambridge. The interior apartments are judiciously arranged, and elegantly fitted up and furnished : the lobby displays a very finely-executed window, in painted and stained glass. Picturesque and swelling grounds, either " partially shaded by scattered groups of fine trees, or enveloped in dense masses of umbrageous woods,' L-^' ivj -ir, ^ C(tf"3PIBZ,S H«»TJ2:^ CORNWALL. 17 adorn and diversify tlie vicinity of this mansion ; — wiiich, when beheld in combination with the surounding scenery, must be admitted to constitute one of the finest prospects on the banks of the Taraar. This seat has obtained a great degree of adventitious celebrity, from the strange cir- cumstances related by Hals, the Cornish topographer, respecting the interment, in the grounds here, of the above-mentioned Sir James Tillie. His burial-place is distinguished by a small tower, erected on a conspicuous eminence at a short distance from the man- sion, northwards ; and which hill, according to Lysons, he used to call Mount Ararat. Gilpin, in his " Observations on the Western Counties," characterises Tillie as " a celebrated atheist of the last age ;" and states, that, " in ridicule of the Resurrection, he obliged his executors to place his dead body, in his usual garb, and in his elbow-chair, upon the top of a hill, and to arrange on a table before him, bottles, glasses, pipes, and tobacco ; and, in this situation, ordered himself to be immured in a tower of such dimensions as he prescribed, where he proposed, he said, patiently to wait the event. — All this was done, and the tower, still enclosing its tenant, remains as a monument of his impiety and pro- faneness. The country people shudder as they go near it : — ' lieligio pavidos terrebat agre^tes Dira loci ; — sylvam, saxumque tremebant.' "* Gilbert and Drewe, in their recent " History of Cornwall," say, " Nothing can be more false than this account of the body being placed in a chair, with a table laid out before it, with bottles, glasses," &c. ; and that, " on the contrary, the body was placed in a coffin, and deposited in a vault."t — Hals, however, who was a contemporary with Tillie, has stated circumstances which partly correspond with the statement of Gilpin ; and, in conclusion, says, " I hear lately, notwithstanding his promise of returning in two years' space to Pentyley, that Sir James's body is eaten with worms, and his bones, or skeleton, fallen down to the ground from the chair wherein it W£is seated, about four years after it was set up," • Vide " Observations," p. 234. The Latin quotation may be thus translated :— Tile fear-struck hind, with superstitious gaze, Trembling and pale, th' unhallow'd tomb surveys. And half expects, whilst horror chills his breast, To see the spectre of its impious guest. t The authors further state, that " the last will and testament of Sir James Tillie has lately been examined by his heirs at Doctors' Commons ; and in this document it is observable, that, so far from his principles being atheistical, they breathe throughout a disposition fraught with the utmost submission to the will of Divine Providence, and a perfect confidence in the wisdom and mercies of the Creator." E IS CORNWALL. COTELE, OR COTEHELE HOUSE. This venerable Mansion is situated about three miles to the north of Pentillie, on a bold knoll, near the western banks of the Tamar; but the lofty surrounding woods prevent the river from being seen, except from the upper rooms. It is quaintly described by Carew, in his ' Survey of Cornwall,' as " anciente, large, strong, and fayre, and appur- tenanced with the necessaries of wood, water, fishing, parkes, and milles, withe the devotion (in times past) of a riche furnished chapelle, and charitie of alms-houses iot certain poor people whiche the owners used to releive." Cotehele came into the possession of the Edgcunibes by the marriage of Hilaria, daughter and heiress of William de Cotehele, with William de Edgcumbe, in the reign of Edward the Third; and it afterwards, for a time, became the chief residence of that family : it is now the property of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe. The Mansion (which is principally of granite) was erected by Sir Richard Edgcumbe, early in the reign of Henry the Seventh : its external architecture partakes of the mingled character of the old manor-house and the feudal castle. The entrance is through a moor-stone archway, which leads into a small quadrangular court, adjacent to which, on the northern side, is a large square embattled tower, including the principal rooms. Access to the different rooms is obtained through the Hall, which is an interesting apartment, (twenty-two feet broad, and forty-two feet long,) still displaying "all the characteristic appendages of feudal dignity." In the windows, in painted glass, are various emblazonments of the arms of the Edgcumbe family aYid its alliances. Several suits of ancient armour, both plate and mail, are hung against the walls, with arquebuses, pikes, halberds, bows and arrows, swords, and other implements of warfare ; and at the south end stands the figure of an ancient warrior, armed 'cap-a-pie.' Some immense branching stags'- horns, elephants' tusks, and two antelopes' heads, are likewise preserved here. The principal apartments are hung with mouldering tapestry ; and it should be remarked that all the furniture corresponds with the domestic style of the " olden times," though mostly collected by the late, and the present Earl of Mount Edgcumbe. The stair- case leading to the upper stories exhibits some family portraits of a distant age ; and in the state bed-room is a rich altar-cloth of crimson velvet, embroidered with figures of the twelve apostles, and other devices. This altar-cloth formerly ornamented the family chapel, which is a small edifice, contiguous to the hall, turreted and embattled. Among the antique vestiges contained in the diflferent apartments, are several rudely-carved ebony chairs ; some immense brazen fire-dogs ; elaborately wrought cabinets ; embroidered couches ; numerous drinking vessels, of glass and earthenware, grotesquely formed ; old china; ancient books, including a manuscript music-book of Henry the Eighth's reign ; and divers other curiosities. A sleeping apartment in the northern tower is said to have been occupied several nights by Charles the Second ; — and in August 1789, George the JFAH. MOTUTH , COMNWAILL. PROM PESDtSiiriS CASTLr. J . Starfiaf. FAE- MOUTH HAIKBOTUIR. PKKDKKNIS CASTtE 19 THB SISTAKCE. CORNWALL. IQ Third, Charlotte his Queen, and three of the Princesses, breakfasted in this mansion with the then Earl and Countess of Mount Edgecumbe. The grounds, particularly those between the house and the river, are ornamented with some very noble trees. The Spanish chesnuts, especially, have there attained a vast size ; and, spreading out their huge and massive limbs, are scarcely inferior to the proudest oaks. Near the bottom of one of tlie sweeping acclivities, whose exuberant clothing embellishes this demesne, is a small Gothic votive chapel, most picturesquely situated upon a little rocky eminence, rising very steeply from the river, yet partially concealed amidst the deep foliage which overshadows it. This was erected by Sir Richard Edg- cumbe, in grateful commemoration for his escape from an imminent danger, — which has been thus narrated by Carew, and is inscribed in the interior, against the northern wall : — "Sir Bichard Edgcumbe was driven to hide himself in those his thicke woods, which overlook the river, wltat time being suspected of fevouring the Earl of Richmond's party against King Richard the Third, hee was hotely pursued, and narrowly searched for ; which extremity taught him a sudden policy, to put a stone in his cap, and tumble the same into the water, while these rangers were close at his heels, who, looking down after the noyse, and seeing his cap swimming thereon, gave over their farther hunting, and left him at liberty to shift away, and ship over into Brittaine ; for a grateful remembrance of which delivery, hee afterward bnilded in the place of hi» lurking, a chappel." Several old paintings adorn the walls of this chapel ; and on the altar is a gilt crucifix, and a little figure of St. Thomas a Becket, neatly carved in wood. Some stained glass, representing St. George and the Dragon, the Crucifixion, a Female Saint, and the Arms of Edgcumbe, is displayed in the east window ; and on the south wall is a painted memo- rial, or monument, for Sir Richard Edgecumbe, the founder, who was Comptroller of the Household to Henry the Seventh, and, dying at Morlaix, in Bretagne, (when on an embassy in France,) in September, 1489, was buried in the conventual church of that town. FALMOUTH, AND FALMOUTH HARBOUR. TWO VIEWS. Falmouth, an extensive and flourishing sea-port town, on the southern coast of Corn- wall, derives both its name and consequence from the commodious Harbour formed here by the embouchure, or estuary, of the Fal, and its tributary rivers. Though the port was known and frequented in remote ages, the town itself is comparatively of modern date, its origin being scarcely to be traced beyond the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Neither Leland, who visited Cornwall in the reign of Henry the Eighth, nor Norden, who prepared his map of the county, in 1584, nor Camden, who wrote his " Britannia" a few years after that year, nor Carew, whose " Survey" was printed in 1602, make the least mention of Falmouth, either as a town or village, although each of them has noticed the Harbour; and although, at the latter period, a few houses, or cottages, as may be inferred from different accounts, must have then occupied this spot. 20 CORNWALL. Its first name, according to local tradition, strengthened however by documentary evidence, was the very singular one of Penny -Come- Quick, which was derived from the appellation bestowed, from the following circumstances, on a small alehouse at the northern extremity of the town : — " A certain person building a little house, a female servant of Mr. Pendarvis, (of Pendarvis, about ten or twelve miles from Falmouth,) came and dwelt in it ; upon which that gentleman bid her brew a little ale, and on such a day he promised to come with some gentlemen, and help her to some money, by drinking it up." She observed her master's orders ; but, in the mean time, a Dutch vessel came into the harbour, and the crew, calling at the house, " drank out the ale." On the day appointed, Mr. Pendarvis and his friends attended, and, on his calling for drink, his servant said, " she had none." This disappointment caused inquiry, and the servant, telling him what had passed, ended her story with these words — " Truly, master, the Penny come so quick, I could not deny them."* Hence originated the first name of Falmouth ; yet it had also a second name, — that of Smithike, or Smith-wick, from a smith's shop, or dwelling, near the centre of the town, and which indeed formed the nucleus of the whole, and is yet standing immediately behind the Standard Hotel. But it was not until the reign of James the First, that any pre-conceived attempt was made towards forming a town at Falmouth, although the want of accommodation for mariners entering the harbour had been long experienced ; and that design, which was first acted on in 1613, by Mr. John (afterward Sir John) Killigrew, of Arwinnick House, at the eastern extremity of Falmouth, met with great opposition from the corporations of Penryn, Truro, and Helston, who, in a joint-petition to the king, set forth the " evil consequences" which must ensue to those boroughs, should a town be erected at Falmouth Harbour j and they strongly prayed, that all buildings there " should be inhibited for the future." The matter was referred to the Privy Council, and, after due examination and inquiry, it was determined, " That the erection of a town at Smithike, by Mr. Killigrew, could by no means be prejudicial to the coinage and incorporate towns aforesaid, they standing at such a considerable distance from it," &c. The buildings were, therefore, proceeded with, and Smithike soon became a place of considerable trade. Its increasing prosperity is strikingly indicated by a proclamation issued by Charles the Second, in 1660, which commanded, that "Smithike, alias PeH7iy- Come- Quick, * In a communication furnished by tlie late Rev. John Whitaker, of Ruan-Lanyhorne, to the editors of the " Beauties of England," &c. in the year 1802, that gentleman, in reference to the above relation, says — " Even the house itself still remains upon what was the land of Pendarvis, but it now belongs to Lord Duustanville, and is still shown at the northern end of the town. It has a small walled court before it, facing tcith it to the sea ; is still thatched . in one half of its roof, is still an alehouse, and still retains a fading remembrance of the name which within memory it bore familiarly on its head, that of Penny-Come-Quick. It stands near the New Quay, opposite to Flushing, and a little on the right of the long flight of stone steps, by which we ascend from the passage-boat that plies between Flushing and Falmouth ; having the mark of an ancient door, as well as of an ancient window, in the wall by which it turns its back upon the land." — The Dutch have had much intercourse with Falmouth, as the village of Fiuakbig apon one side of it, and some houses called Amsterdam on the other, furnish testimony. CORNWALL. 21 should, for ever after the 20th of August, 1660, be called by the name of Falmouth." In the following year it obtained a charter of incorporation, including a confirmation of a weekly market, two annual fairs, and the feriage, or water-passage, between the town and the village of Flushing. In 1664, after a Church had been recently built by voluntary contributions, Falmouth was separated by act of parliament, from the chapelry of St. Budock, and the parish of St. Gluvias, and constituted a distinct parish. At that time there were two hundred houses in the town, and its buildings and trade rapidly increased after its establishment as a station for the post-oflBce packets, about the time of the Revolution in 1688. According to the returns made to the House of Commons in 1821, the population amounted to 4392 ; viz. males, 1849 ; females, 2543 ; and the number of houses to 451 : a considerable increase, however, has in both respects since taken place. Falmouth is pleasantly situated, on the western side of the Harbour. The oldest parts are principally disposed in a long street, a mile in length, extending along the beach, but other streets and ranges of buildings are seen rising above each other upon the acclivities of a commanding eminence at the back of the town, as represented in the accompanying View. The Church, which is distinguished by a lofty tower, is dedicated to Charles the First, " King and Martyr." Dissenting Chapels are numerous in this town, and the Jews have a synagogue here. Various charitable institutions have also been established, of which the principal are the different Schools, both of the church, and sectarian ; the Merchants' Hospital; the Misericordia Society; and the Widow's Retreat. The Quay was constructed about the year 1660, by Sir Peter Killigrew. . Falmouth Harbour, according to Whitaker, was known to Ptolemy as "the mouth of the Cenia, (the Fal,) so called then, and actually having upon it, the ancient town Cenia, the present Tregony." It is capacious and well sheltered ; or, as Lelaud describes it '•' a notable and famous, and, in a manner, the principal haven of all Britain." Camden compares it to Brundusium in Italy, and joins with Carew and Speed in the assertion, that " a hundred sail of ships may anchor within its circuit, and no one of them see the other's top." This arises from the numerous creeks which diverge from the broad expanse of its waters, and from the bold headlands which bound its shores. The annexed View represents the entrance to the Harbour from the sea, with the town of Falmouth, and the peninsula, whose rocky brow is occupied by the irregular fortifica- tions of Pendennis Castle on its western side. Nearly opposite, but projecting yet further into the ocean, rises a more lofty headland, called St. Anthony's Point, which forms the eastern side of the entrance, and on which is a signal-station. The castle, town, and harbour of St. Mawes lie within this point, directly opposite to Pendennis ; and near the middle of the entrance, which is about one mile in width, is the Black Rock ; this is covered at high-water, but a pole is fixed on it to denote' its situation. The aggregate waters, independently of St. Mawes and other creeks, may be described as constituting two harbours, one within the other. F 22 CORNWALL. The principal harbour which is called Carreg, or Carrick, Road, extends in nearly a direct line about five miles, its depth varying from twenty, to four fathoms. The inner harbour diverges from the opposite boundaries of the hills, from Trefusis Point and the hill of Pendennis, and is separated from Carreg Road by a bar of sand, on which, at ebb tide, there is only six feet water. Falmouth and Flushing are seated on its opposite sides, and at its upper extremity is the town of Penryn. In the body of water constituting these harbours, five hundred sail may ride in full security ; and the free ingress and egress, at all times attainable, render this haven superior to any other in the kingdom for the purposes of trans-atlantic navigation.* TREMATON CASTLE. The Castle of Trematon may be regarded as one of the most interesting ruined fortresses of the county, and indeed of England. Seated in a truly picturesque part of Cornwall, with the accompaniments of hill and dell, water and wood, it has naturally attracted the attention and admiration of the artist, the antiquary, and the topographer ; and though its history and architectural features have never been fully developed, we are enabled, by the researches and writings of Carew, Borlase, Polwliele, Hitchins, and Drew, to ascertain many important facts relating to the former. The accompanying engraving rather displays the situation and scenery of the Castle, than the fortress itself; but parts of the keep- tower, and entrance gate-house, are shewn crowning the summit of the eminence. In the time of William Rufus, this Castle was occupied by one of the Valletort family, under the Earl of Cornwall, whose chief seat was Launceston Castle. The buildings crown a considerable eminence, rising abruptly from the river Lynher, and surround a base court, which is entered through a fortified gate-house. A strong embattled wall surmounts a bank flanked by a moat of irregular form, which follows the course of the hill on which it stands. At the north-east angle of the enclosure is a lofty conical artificial mount, about thirty feet in height, on which the keep-tower is raised. On the outside the artificial and natural slope extends to a great depth, below which are the remains of some strong outworks. The keep-tower, thirty feet high, has an embattled parapet, surmounting a wall about ten feet in thickness, which encloses an irregular court, measuring sixty-six feet by fifty-two feet. As the exterior wall has no windows, or even loop-holes. Dr. Borlase justly concludes, that the rooms it contained must have been lighted by windows opening to the inner court. In tlie 1 1th of Edward III., a survey was made of this Castle, wherein it is described to be " well walled, and containing a hall, kitchen, and lodging chamber, with a certain ancient chapel within the gate of the Castle." According to Carew, in his " Survey of Cornwall," Sir Richard Grenville held this place in 1549 against the rebels, but, being surprised and seized, he was sent to Launceston gaol, when the rebels plundered the • Vide Hitchins' and Drew's" History of Cornwall," vol. ii. p. 245. TmEMATOH-CASTlLIE . COKN'WAIUIL. TMi: REsamscs of jszf tucmer. S3q. to imoM tbzs I'i.a.te ss resfsctfulzt JmnrcATED. ST TKS Jtmi. THR SEAT Cr Tuii SAJll. Of ST. CEKJUiUTS. TO WHQX THIS PZATB IS MOST MITUBLT DSDICATBD. 8Y TBH FURiaSMEi CORNWALL. 23 Castle, and ill-treated his lady. All the interior parts of the old buildings have been destroyed. Within the base court, a modern house was erected by the late Benjamin Tucker, Esq. ; and it is now occupied by Jedidiah Tucker, Esq. Carrington, in his " Banks of the Tamar," exclaims " Time saps e'en now thy withering remains, Majestic Trematon" PORT ELIOT, ST. GERMANS. Port Eliot, the seat of the Earl of St. Germans, is a large and handsome, but irre- gular building, seated in a finely-wooded park, in the immediate vicinity of the ancient borough town of St. Germans. This estate was formerly called Porth Prior, from occupy- ing the site of an ancient priory, or religious house, which was founded in an early period of the Anglo-Saxon dynasty. Mr. Whitaker contends that a bishop's see was settled here as early as 614, but we have no proof of any bishop being seated at St. Ger- mans before the year 910, when Athelstan was appointed to this seat. The see remained here until the following century, when it was transferred to Crediton, and thence to Exeter in 1050. King Henry VIII leased the site of the priory with its lands to John Champer- nowne, and others. Of this Champernowne, Carew relates a story about the mode of his obtaining Porth Prior. In 1565, the whole was granted to Richard Eliot, Esq., from whom the present Earl is descended. The mansion, though embattled, and assuming some features of antiquity, is compara- tively modern ; parts of it having been raised at the beginning of the present century^ As indicated by the accompanying engraving, the house is spacious, and placed in juxta- position with the ancient priory church, which occupies a rising ground on the south side. That edifice exhibits some interesting features of Norman architecture, in its western door-way, and two lateral towers of different forms and dimensions. The windows, niches, &c. display traces of ancient workmanship. According to the Exeter Register, the south aisle of this church was built in 1261 ; and Carew states, that in 1592, " great part of the chauncell felle suddenly down upon a Friday, very shortly after the public service was ended, which heavenly favour, of so little respite, saved many persons' lives, with whom immediately before it had been stuffed." In the church are many monuments, to the Glanvilles, the Scawens, and the Eliots; particularly a large and costly one, by Rysbrack, for Edward Eliot, Esq., who died in 1723. The grounds of Port Eliot, are distinguished for romantic and fine scenery ; in one part of which a branch of the river Tidi spreads its waters over a large extent of low ground, and thus assumes a lake-like appearance. On the banks of this river is a pleasure-garden, called the Craggs, which forms an interesting contrast to the wild and rocky scenery adjoining. The mansion at Port Eliot contains a collection of portraits and other pictures, some of which claim the attention of the antiquary and artist, either from their respective subjects. 24 CORNWALL. or the masters by whom they were executed. One of them, a portrait of an old man, according to the testimony of Sir Joshua Reynolds, who in early days was an inmate in this house, was painted jointly by Quintin Matsys and Rembrandt: that is, the head by the former, cut out of another picture, and the drapery and back ground, by the latter artist. A small cabinet picture by Rembrandt, from the story of Bel and the Dragon ; nine ancient pictures said to have belonged to the priory, representing events in the life of our Saviour ; and a curious family painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds, representing Richard Eliot, his wife and family, with Captain Hamilton and Mrs. Goldsworthy, are likewise in this collection. The latter was painted in 1746, and is acknowledged to be the first family group Sir Joshua ever painted. Here also is a portrait of John Hampden, 1643, a half-length, said to be the only original painting of that distinguished patriot ; and among other portraits of the Eliot family, there is one of Edward Eliot Craggs, the late Lord Eliot, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds in 1 788. TREGOTHNAN HOUSE. Among the many beautiful residences situated near tlie river F41, and its various tributary streams, is Tregothnan, the seat of the Earl of Falmouth, whose ancestors obtained this estate in the fourteenth century, by marriage with the heiress of the ancient family of Tregothnan. The Boscawens were settled at Boscawen Rose, (of which they possessed the lordship,) as early as the reign of King John ; but after the above alliance, they removed to Tregothnan, and have since continued there. Hugh Boscawen was amerced five marks for not attending at the coronation of Philip and Mary, to receive the honour of knighthood ; and, in the reign of James the First, Robert Boscawen paid a fine of five pounds, to be relieved from the order of the Bath, at the creation of Prince Henry. Their descendants, however, have been less scrupulous of sharing the favours of royalty. In June, 1720, Hugh Boscawen was created Baron of Boscawen Rose, and Viscount Falmouth; and his collateral descendant, Edward Boscawen, the present possessor of the family estates and honours, was advanced to the dignity of Earl of Falmouth on the 9th of July, 1821. Teegothnan House stands on a rising ground near the F&l river, over which — and over the town of Falmouth, and its beautiful harbour and bay, stretching towards the Lizard Point, and including the rich and highly-cultivated tract called Roseland — it commands, from its central tower, a most delightful prospect. The views, also, on the land side, are expansive and interesting. This mansion was erected by the Earl of Falmouth, about eighteen years ago, partly on the site of the old seat, and partly in con- nexion with it, from the designs, and under the superintendence, of William Wilkin s, Esq. architect. In its architectural character, it is a combination of the style of the Tudor age with the antecedent pointed style. Its parts are much diversified : on one side is a pro- jecting entrance porch, with open arches, &c. as delineated in the annexed View ; and on F.J. Haroil SS^r CW .TBE JEL4HZ. OF T^ZJtOWTB . TO IvsCHt THIS J2^T£ IS RSSt^CTFULTT nEDICATSD . BT THE FUBLLSSERS. OTJamriR©, COmHWAIUlt., CORNWALL. 26 another are ornamental towers, octagonally formed; whilst, from the centre of the build- ing, rises a square tower of considerable dimensions. The summits are embattled ; and from the oct£^gon, and other buttresses, at the angles, as well as from the sides of the central pile, a variety of curiously- wrought chimneys, and turrets resembling chimneys, are carried up to an unusual height, giving to the whole a singular appearance. The lobby is capacious, and the apartments, generally, are of large dimensions, and tastefully fitted up and furnished. There is an agreeable diversity in the grounds of Tregothnan, and the plantations and pleasure-gardens have been judiciously disposed and laid out. In the neighbouring parish church of St. Michael Penkevill, is the burying-place of the Boscawens ; of whom the gallant Admiral Boscaw en, who died on January the 10th, 1761, is commemorated by a monument designed by Adams, and surmounted by a bust of the deceased from the chisel of Rysbrack. TRURO. This town, though of no very remote antiquity, may now be regarded as the metro- polis of Cornwall ; its central situation with respect to the commerce and chief products of the county, its improved and improving state, the general regularity and respectability of its buildings, its intelligent and increasing population, and the similarity of its local institutions and polity to those of our principal towns, fully entitling it to that distinction. In old records it is called 7Ve-ve-ru, TH-e-ureti, and T¥iiru burgh, appellations which the Rev. Mr. Whitaker conceived to have originally signified the House, or Castle, upon the Uro, or Uru; the latter being an ancient denomination of a river, as proved by various notices in the Itineraries. Truro is seated in a pleasant valley, near the conflux of the two small rivers Kenwyn and St. Allen, which direct their streams on each side of the town, and at the lower part unite with a branch of Fahnouth Harbour. At high tides, these rivers, uniting with the flowing waves, form an expansive lake, about two miles in length, and of sufiicient depth for vessels of one hundred tons burthen to land their cargoes on the quays. " The creke of Truro," says Leland, " afore the very town, is divided into two parts, and eche of them has a brook cumming down, and a bridge, and this town of Truro bytwixt them both : the White Freres house was on the west area, in Kenwyn-strcet. — Ther is a Castille, a quarter of a mile by west out of Truro, 'longing to the Erles of Cornwalle, now clene down : the site thereof is used for a shoting and playing-place." As this Castle is not mentioned in the Domesday Book, we may assume it was not erected until after the era of that survey : it was probably occupied by the Norman Earls of Cornwall, as a kind of rural palace, subordinate to their residences at Launceston, Trema ton, and Restormel. Its site is now included within the town, at the top of Pyder-street, and is still discernible by some remains of the artificial mount on which the keep stood. Truro itself emanated from this fortress, and, growing into consequence under its pro- G 26 CORNWALL. tection, was first incorporated as a borough town between the years 1130 and 1140, by Richard de Lacy, chief justice of England, its then owner. Under the charter by which it is now governed, and which was granted by Queen Elizabeth, in 1589, the corporation consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and twenty capital burgesses, who possess the privilege of returning two members to parliament ; but are wholly under the influence of the Earl of Falmouth, the present lord of the manor of Truro. Truro includes the whole of St. Mary's parish, formerly St. Pancras, (which is nearly limited to the area between the streams,) and portions of those of St. Clement and Kenwyn, which comprise its extensive suburbs on the eastern and western sides. The latter, indeed, are more populous than the town itself, and the buildings more numerous : at the present time, the congregated inhabitants of this town and its suburbs may be estimated at about 10,000 in number. On the election of a mayor, the town-mace, by the custom of the borough, must be delivered to the lord of the manor, who retains it until paid sixpence for every house, as an acknowledgment. He also claims a duty, called smoke money, from most of the burgage houses ; and had, anciently, a claim to coveridge money, but this is become obsolete. Norden, who visited Truro in the year 1674, says, " there is not a towne in the west part of the shyre, more comendable for neatness of buyldinges, nor more discomendable for the pride of the people." In the former respect, its superiority is yet preserved ; in the latter, its character has been much advanced, from the spread of literature and the increased intelligence of the community. Great improvements have been made here since the lighting and paving act was passed at Midsummer, 1794; about two years prior to which, a Literary and Philosophical Institution, including a County Library, was established in this town, and is still flourishing. There is also a Theatre and an Assembly-room ; an Ama- teur Concert ; and a Grammar-school, of long standing and great reputation at which many distinguished persons have been educated ; among whom we may enumerate Samuel Foote, Esq. the comedian and dramatist, (who was born at Truro,* in 1721 ;) the late Rev. Henry Martyn, B.D. (another native,) who translated the Scriptures into the Persian language ; the late Sir Humphry Davy, Bart, the most eminent chymist of his age ; and the Rev. Richard Polwhele, the historian (both of Cornwall and Devon) and poet. St. Mary's Church, which is a spacious fabric, consisting of two aisles of equal size, and a smaller one, is constructed in that elegant style of pointed architecture which was prevalent in the early part of the reign of Henry the Eighth ; but the octagonal spire at the west end was not built till nearly the middle of the last century. Among its monu- ments is a very large one, in the chancel, for John Robartes, Esq. of Truro, (an ancestor of the now extinct family of the Earls of Radnor, of that name, of Lanhydrock,) including figures of himself, his lady, and others of the family, in the dresses of his time : he died in March, 1614. • His birth-place was the house distinguished in the annexed View, as the lUd hum Hotel: it was the town- residence of his father's family, the Footes of Lambesso. ■li ^mf^ma- MATRTES CASTX,]E, C®RHWA]L]L. , M. J. Btarfinfi, oromiH (CffincTMCH , comh-wailju. CORNWALL. 27 Truro is one of the principal coinage towns, and Hals says it had a coinage hall in King John's reign. The blocks of tin which are brought hither for stamping, lie in unguarded heaps in the street, the great weight of each rendering it difficult to remore them clandestinely without detection. Tin, copper, and copper ore, are the chief articles of export ; the imports are coals, iron, timber, and rarious kinds of goods from London and Bristol, including the hardwares of Birmingham and Sheffield. The Court of the Vice-warden of the Stanneries is held in this town. The County Infirmary is a spacious stone building, standing on an airy eminence, westward, in Kenwyn parish : it was first opened in August, 1799- BODMIN. Bodmin is an ancient town, situated near the middle of the county, and almost equi- distant from the Bristol and British channels, but its origin was by no means of so remote a date as stated by Hals, who assumes it to hare been the undoubted site of the pagan Temple of Apollo, which Cxmedage is reputed to have built in Cornwall, upwards of 830 years before the Christian era, or in the year of the world 3172. On the contrary, the learned Whitaker, by whom the most discriminating sagacity has been exercised in investigating the history of the see of Cornwall,* derives the foundation and growth of Bodmin from a solitary hut, which-St. Guron, a Cornish eremite, occupied in the valley here, near a copious spring, at the western end of the present church-yard.t This was at the commencement of the sixth century, and soon after, in 518, St. Guron resigned his dwelling to St. Petrock, (the son of a king of Cumbria,) who having dedicated himself to religion, and spent twenty years in the study of sacred literature, in Ireland, finally settled upon this spot. He brought with him only three persons, and, with them for his com- panions, established a small and recluse monastery on the site of St. Guron's hermitage, taking his code of discipline from the rules of St. Benedict. St. Petrock died about the year 540, and his sepulchral shrine was preserved in a small chapel attached to the western end of Bodmin church, until long after the era of the Reformation. — Such then is the accredited origin of this town ; and its name corroborates its history. The " cell of the hermit monks" lent to it its own appellation, and Bod-min, Bod-mine, Bod-myn, and Bod-man, as it has been variously written in old records, are all derived from Bos-mana, or " the mansion of the monks." That the monkish cell was the incipient germ from which Bodmin arose, there can be no doubt, yet the great impulse to its increase was not communicated until the year 986, • Vide his " ABcient Cathedral of Cornwall, historically sorrejed ;" aad partiriilari7 Chap. I. Seetiins u. iii. and IT. t The spring stM exists, but it has been fanned into a corered well near the western door of the chnrch. At the church stile, (at which, orer the shates, is the date 1»U,) and in Brewery Lane, it still pours forth its pellucid water* for general use. 28 CORNWALL. when king Athelstau erected a r^uliir priory for Benedictines, " just without the south- eastern end of what is now the church-yard, and leaving the scene of St. Petrock's her- mitage, with the ground of his well, for the ample area of that church of his, which he made equally monastic and parochial. Hence the place grew into consequence, and, as Leland informs us in his Itinerary, " the toune takith king Edelstane for the chief erector and giver of privileges onto it." — The fallacy of the opinion entertained by many antiquaries, that Bodmin was once the seat of the see of Cornwall, has been fully shewn by Whitaker: that episcopate was at St. Germans. At the period of the Domesday Survey, there were sixty-eight houses in this town, belonging to the priory alone j and it had also a market, the tolls of which were then valued at 35s. per annum. At the dissolution, the revenues of the priory, which had been refounded for Austin Canons about the year 1120, were estimated at the nett annual value of £270. Os. lid. Elxcept the church, the priory buildings have been entirely destroyed. Carew, speaking of Bodmin in Queen Elizabeth's reign, describes it as follows ; and although many and very considerable improvements have been effected here since his time, its general situation remains the same, as may be inferred from the accom- panying View. " It consisteth wholly (in a maner) of one streete, leading east and west, wel neere the space of an easteme mUe, whose south side is hidden from the sunne by an high hill, so neerely coasting it in most places, as neither can light have entrance to their staires, nor open ayr to their other roomes. The oth«r side is also overlooked by a great hill, though somewhat farther distant." — It is supposed that the southern part of the town was deserted after the great plague, which ravaged Europe in the reign of Edward the Third, and carried off 1500 of its inhabitants. Norden says, Bodmin " hath bene of larger receite than now it is, as appeareth by the ruynes of sundrie buyldings decayde." Bodmin obtained its first charter of incorporation from Richard, Earl of Cornwall, between the years 1 190 and 1 190 ; and it has sent two members to Parliament ever since the 23d of Eldward I. Other charters were given by different sovereigns, yet the corpo- ration ha^nng been dissolved in consequence of neglect, a new charter was granted by George the Third, in 1/98, which vests the government pf this borough in a mayor, eleven aldermen, and twenty-four common-councilmen. By those thirty-six persons, the parliamen- tary representatives are now returned, although the present population is estimated at 4000. The borough interest is possessed by D. R. GUbert, Esq. and the Marquess of Hertford.* The present Church, (dedicated to St. Mary and St. Petrock,) was erected between the years 1468 and 14/2; except the northern chancel and the tower, which are of the * Among the accounts in the corporation records, are the following corions items relating to the indenting of members of parliament, and payment of their wages, in the reign of Henry the Seyenth. — " 19, 20 Henry VII., paide to Richard Watts and John Smyth, burgesses of the parliament for the towne, 13s. 4d. — Paide for the endentes for the burgesses of the parliament, 2i-'.i '.'i' jo'vji^juji i, COIRHWAILIL,. •I,AWlfiI"5r©K.©C. C01K.HWAlt.lC, M,.l. S«rf3r,|. V mt PUHMSHKBS. .it:. A€E H'OrjSE. SPA'SD'ST'SiW, C^IRHWAILIL,. THE SEAT OF THE BE\'" CHAMXS PRJOT.AOX BRmOi, TO WHOM TIUS PIjVrF. IS IffiSPKCTrm.H BBlICiTED. BT THK POBUSHEfiS. 3? MAWSAW Cja-LfKtia ^= iUiailCliiMiJ HOTHERT. C®EH-^AI, LIL CORNWALL, 31 attached to the mansion by oblique walls, was commenced in 1636, but not completed until 1658. It consists of a square central part, surmounting an arched avenue, flanked by pentagonal towers ; the whole is embattled and crowned by triangular pinnacles, crested by small globes. The vale of Lanhydrock is peculiarly picturesque. PLACE HOUSE, PADSTOW. Pi,ACB House, originally called Gwarthandrea, and afterwards Prideaux Castle, is a substantial building, of Queen Elizabeth's time, standing on a rising ground at the western end of Padstow ; and belonging, together with the manor of Padstow, to the Rev. Charles Prideaux Brune. This gentleman is descended from a younger branch of the very ancient family of Prideaux, but he assumed the name of Brune in 17975 pursuant to the will of Charles Brune, Esq., his great uncle. Carew, speaking of this mansion in his " Survey," describes it as "the new and stately house of Mr. Nicholas Prideaux," who " thereby taketh a ful and large prospect of the towne, haven, and country adjoining ; to all which his wisdome is a stay, his authority a direction." It is a spacious embattled edifice ; but has been considerably enlarged and improved in its domestic arrangements by the present proprietor. The contiguous grounds are laid out with much taste ; and some fine trees give interest to the scenery : in the court before the house, is a hedge of myrtles, and another of tamarisks. Place House was the birth-place of the learned Humphrey Prideaux, D. D. Dean of Norwich, author of the " Connection between the Old and New Testaments," and other works, both historical and polemic. ST. MAWGAN CHURCH, AND LANHERNE NUNNERY. About three miles from the town of St. Columb, on the north-western side of this county, is the little village of Mawgan, (in Pyder,) which is afiirmed to have been some time called Lanherne, from the name of its chief manor, an ancient possession of the "great Arundells," (as they were designated from their ample estates and liberality,) and now the property of Lord Arundell of Wardour, a descendant from the younger branch of that family. " Their said house of Lanhearne," Carew states, " is appurtenanced with a large scope of land, which (while the o-\vners there lived) was employed to franke hospi- tality ; yet the same wanted wood, in lieu whereof they burned heath ; and generally, it [the estate] is more regardable for profit, than commendable for pleasure." The old Mansion, now called the Nunnery, was, in August, 1794, generously assigned by Henry, eighth Lord x\rundell, as an asylum for a convent of English Theresian nuns, who, on the then recent irruption of the French into Belgium, had emigrated from Antwerp, in which city their house had been originally established in 1619. This sisterhood still continues secluded here, observing the rites of the Romish church in the celebration of Divine worship. In the garden is an ancient stone Cross, (brought from 32 CORNWALL. the chapel-close of the barton of Roseworthy, in Gwinear,) which has a short inscrip- tion on each side, " apparently Saxon,"* and, at the top, a crucifixion, rudely sculptured. Another Cross, of a later period and better sculpture, which stands in the church-yard, displays, on the east side, a trefoil-headed niche, containing the crucifixion, in pretty high relief; and, on the west, a legendary subject. Within the church are several old sepulchral brasses, in memory of the Arundells ; and on the Gothic screen of a rood-loft, extending across the nave and south aisle, are carved the family arms — viz. Sab. six swallows, (Hirondelles,) in pile, arg. — together with rich scrolls of vine branches, and various kinds of animals. — Sir John Arundell, Knt., bequeathed a legacy of £10, to pur- chase a bell for the new belfry of this church, provided the said belfry was completed within six years from the date of his will, viz. April 18th, 1433. ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT., St. Michael's Mount is an insulated pyramidical congregation of rocks, situated within fourteen miles of the Land's End, at the inner part of an extensive bay, and opposite to Marazion, with which town it is connected, at low water, by a narrow cause- way of stone and pebbles embedded on the sea-sands. Its Cornish name, according to Carew, was Cava Cowz en Clotvze; but others write, Carak-lmigh en Clilz, signifying the Grey, or Hoar Rock, in the TFood ; and by that appellation it is mentioned in the Itinerary of William of Worcester, who sanctions the tradition which states the Mount to have been separated from the main land by some great convulsion, at the (unrecorded) time when " one hundred and forty parish churches were swallowed up by the sea, between this place and the Scilly islands." It appears, from the respective accounts of Leland and Borlase, that roots and trunks of trees have been discovered many feet below the sand on divers parts of the coast ; and, in allusion to these facts, combined with the traditionary lore of former ages, the late Sir Humphry Davy, when a youth, thus descanted poetically, in his " Mount's Bay:" — " Majestic Michael rises ; he, whose brow Was once with verdure clad ; the tow'ring oaks Is crowned with castles, and whose rocky sides There waved their branchy groves, — the sacred oaks, Are clad with dusky ivy ; he, whose base, Whose awful shades among, the Druids stray'd. Beat by the storms of ages, stands unmov'd To cut the hallow'd misletoe, and hold Amidst the wreck of things — the change of time. High converse with their Gods." That base, encircled by the azure waves, — — — — This Mount was known both to the Phoenicians and the Romans. Ptolemy notices it by the appellation Ocrinum, and Diodorus Siculus under that of Ix^'c, whither the tin, " when refined and cast into ingots by the Britons, who dwelt near the promontory of Belerium, (the Land's End,) was carried in carts over an isthmus, dry only at low water." • Vide Lysons's " Cornwall," p. ccxlv., and its accompanying Plate, in which both the above Cross and that in St. Mawgan's church-yard are represented. iP' t* na AiK -d. of a later period and better sculpture, which stann the east side, a trefoil- headed niche, containing the crucifixion, ui pnttf '■" ' 'it-f ; and, on the west, a legendary subject. Within the church are sevc ' ' ' ral brasses, in memory of the Aoundclls; and on the Gothic screen of a roo extending across the nave and south aisle, are carved the family arms — ^viz. Sab. six swallows, (Hiro)idtl!es,) in pUe, arg. — together with rich scrolls of vine branches, and various kinds of aniinals.-^Sir John Arundell, Knt., bequeathed a legacy, of £,\0, to pur- chase a bell for the new belfiy of this church, provided the said belfrj- M'as completed within six years from the date of bia will, viz. April 1 8th, 1433. ST. MICHAEL'S MOf'NT. * .St. Michael's MofNT is an insulated pyranmlical congregation of rocks, situated within fourteen miles of the Land's End, at the inner part of an extensive bay, and opposite to Marazion, with which town it is connected, at low water, by a narrow cause- way of «toue and pebbles embedded on the sea-sands. Its Cornish name, according to Carew, was Cnra Coic^ en Clowse; but others write, Cn ' ' // en Cl&z, signilyinjf the Grey, or Hoar Itork, in the Uixni; and b\ ih.it ni ; it is mentioned i" the Itinerar>- of Willinni of W«>ft*st«Br. vlio m: 'i which eiate)i thr Mount to hivvp beeu hi '"'« when " one iiuiM ''(^n tViis place and tlv It appears, from the respeciii'e accouots of Leland and Iterlasc, that roots and ti ( e been '' - ■ • ■ ' ' ' > i? coast ; : : to tbct. .... , ; ages, tl, Sir Humphry Davy, when a youth, thus descanted poetically, in his " Mount's Bay: " — " M^ettic Michael rise» ; he, whose brow Was once with Terdure clad ; the tow'ring oaks Is crowu^^t with castles, and whose rockjr sides There waved their braochy grores,— the sacred oaks, Are clad v-ith dusky ivy ; be, whose base, Wlidse awful shades among, the Druids stray 'd, Beat by the storms of ages, stands tmmovM To cut the hallow'd mifletoe, and hold Amidst the wreck of things — the change of time. Hiiih courerfe nitlj their Gods." That base, encircled by the azare waves. This Mount was known both to the ■PlMrnicians and the Romans. Ptolemy notices it by the appellation Ocrimim, and D>1PE1R. MINE. OVSfflBOlKJt^E C©]S.^WA]IX ^^^^k ',?,. mK',^. I'"'l'l r n^e[£K., stat,A c? lqnv> v^ M (C01£KWAE,JL. .„,„„ ,., _, ..„ _,.w:^.>^,^ J- . .u'JiAR HIE X, S T ©HIE . THE SEAT or sm RICHARD -RAWLDlsaM VYVYAN. EAR' MP. BOBIHHOC ]F25B.mT, F®'«yK"5r. CORHWAILUi, 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 19Jlar.'6rC O LD ^^5 mo "?/>pr'63H»r KEC'O 'JO sm 4- ^'^ LD 21A-50m-4,'69 (A17248lO)476B IL UJJIJ f ivi310068 /» k './ \- f W-;-) A // •/, ^^r^*^'^^^^" ..>.^^>