^^,0 HCkETZKY 
 
 ^"^"^^ SOME STARTLING 
 A^ FACTS RELAT IN3 
 ?■! TO THE CANADIAN 
 ?al PACIFIC RAILWAY
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 I'KiNTED BY ('. W. B#TCHELL, 0. 8 ami 10 Elgin Street.
 
 r 

 
 SOME STARTLING FACTS 
 
 -RELATING TO THE- 
 
 CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY 
 
 -AND THE- 
 
 NORTH-WEST LANDS, 
 
 -ALSC- 
 
 A. BRIEF DISCUSSION 
 
 REGARDING 
 
 THE ROUTE, THE WESTERN TERMINUS 
 
 -AND- 
 
 THE LANDS AVAILABLE FOR SETTLEMENT, 
 
 — BY — 
 
 I 
 
 I'lxlNTED AT THE OFFICE OF THE " FKEE PRESS," FLOIN STREET. 
 1S80.
 
 Entered accordiny to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the ijear ISSO, by C. 
 Hordzkij, in the office of the 2Iinister of Arjriculture.
 
 HE. 
 
 i^ufiitotg ^j 
 
 i 
 
 Various indications point to the existence of a wide spread and 
 rapidly growing feeling of dissatisfaction and distrust throughout the 
 older provinces of the Dominion, with regard to the adopted route and 
 construction of that portion of the Canadian Pacific Kailway which 
 traverses the "Kocky Mountain " and " Cascade " Zones, and terminates 
 at Burrard Inlet. 
 
 The main difficulty in the construction of the Pacific Eailway is 
 encountered in the " Cascade " or Coast range, through which any line 
 from the interior of the Continent must pass in order to reach the coast. 
 All surveys made hitherto have been met by this grave obstacle. The 
 "Yale," "Bute Inlet," " Kemsquit," and " Skeena " routes are all, 
 owing to this impediment, well nigh impracticable, and the adoption of 
 any one of them could only be justified, were it to lead to tangible 
 advantages beyond. No such advantages exist, the entire seaboard 
 being but the adamantine buttress of a mountain range, one hundred 
 miles in width. 
 
 The seaboard again, although pierced by countless Inlets, and 
 presenting on the map a most favourable appearance, ofl'ers in reality 
 very grave obstacles to the mariner, because of the nearly universal 
 dearth of good anchoi-ages. On the whole mainland coast there is but 
 one really good natural harbour — Port Simpson. All others have draw- 
 backs in a more or less degree. 
 
 The writer claims to be able to point out a solution of the coast 
 range difficulty, besides certain other advantages of paramount impor- 
 
 ">r:^e849
 
 tance. The matter in tlic following pages is, to some citcnt, a mere 
 index of facts culled from various railway reports, in order to elucidate 
 the writer's arguments, in favour of a Northern route for the Pacific 
 Kail way through the " Pine Kiver Pass " of the Eocky Mountains, 
 Xn'cferably to that of the " Yellow Head Pass," as advanced in 1874 in 
 a little work entitled " Canada on the Pacific." 
 
 The writer has been connected with the Pacific Railway surveys 
 since the inception of the project, and -during the past nine years has 
 seen and examined much more of the North-Western country and of 
 British Columbia, than perhaps any Engineer of Mr. Fleming's stafi'. 
 
 Besides having originated the northern route via the Pine Paver Pass, 
 in opposition to the sneers of certain individuals identified with the 
 Frazer River Line, the wi'iter claims a >^pecial practical knowledge of 
 the British Columbian coast, from the Alaskan boundary line, south- 
 wards, and has, therefore, no hesitation in giving his views to the public, 
 lie merely asks the reader to eximiue carefully the written testimony, and 
 to trust to his own common se ise for his deductions. 
 
 CHAS. HOEETZKY, . 
 
 Late of Hie 0. P. Ji. Surveys. 
 Ottawa, May 31st, 1880.
 
 ^HE object of the present pamphlet is to place prominently before 
 the thinking portion of the Canadian pubho certain facts bearing 
 materially, not only upon the future prospects of the country at large, 
 but also and by no means in a small degree, upon British Imperial 
 interests, in so far at least as these interests may be vested in the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway. 
 
 Actmg upon the advice — presumably at least — of the Chief Engineer 
 of the railway in question, the Government of Sir John A. Macdonald 
 has taken the initiatory step towards cariying out the compact of 1871 
 with British Columbia. Construction has been commenced on the Yale- 
 Kamloops Section — a length of 125 miles. 
 
 The Toronto Mail of the Gth May, in commenting upon the very 
 serious question of routes, betrayed its misgivings by the utterance of the 
 following apologetical remark : — 
 
 " It must be said that if a mistake should have been made in the 
 " choice of the Burrard Inlet route, that mistake will have been made 
 " "without shame or blame to any one." 
 
 Exception may, perhaps, be taken to the above allegation. It is 
 scarcely a matter of doubt that a mistake, and a very serious one, haa 
 been made. The article in question speaks of three seriously competing 
 routes: the " Burrard," the "Bute" and the " Port Simpson " routes. 
 
 " After eight years of surveys pushed forward at gVeat cost, and 
 •' with infinite labour to all concerned," the question has not been 
 exhausted, and the testimony given in the following pages establishes 
 beyond doubt that the true trans-continental route, and the true 
 "Pacific" terminus of that route, have been most unaccountably lost 
 sight of. 
 
 Six years ago, during an examination of the north-west coiisfc of 
 British Columbia, I discovered at the head of the "Kitimat" Inlet, or 
 Douglas Channel, a small land-locked harbour, north from whick 
 stretched a beautiful valley leading directly to, and touching, the River 
 Skeena at a point 75 miles above Port Essington. So much im- 
 pressed were my little party and myself with the natural facilities 
 of this locality towards the formation of a good harbour, and its adapta- 
 bility for a^ terminus, that I made two attempts to discover access
 
 from this point to tlie eastern interior plcatcau. My efforts were fruitless, 
 and after a five weeks' delay at the head of this Inlet, our sloop, the 
 " Triumph," left for the Dean Canal. 
 
 All the above facts were duly set forth in my Official Eeport, dated 
 from " Bellabella, North-West Coast B.C., November 15, 1874," but for 
 reasons unknown to myself, that Report was mutilated most unmercifully, 
 and the last portion of it, descriptive of the coast from Douglas Channel 
 to Queen Charlotte Sound, entirely suppressed. Reference to page.s 
 137, 144, of Mr. S. Fleming's Report of 1877, will afford the most 
 convincing proofs of this statement. A foot note at bottom of page 
 144, states that the matter omitted is treated of in another appendix. 
 I can only say that such is not the case. The only reference made 
 elsewhere to the valley of the Kitimat — none is made to the har- 
 bour or head of the Inlet — is at page 111 of Mr. Fleming's Report for 
 1877, where Mr. Marcus Smith alludes to "the wide andlow valley stretch- 
 in<j to the north affordlnq an easy route to the Skeena River." His visit; to 
 that locality was made a few days previous to mine, but he did not go 
 far enough up the Inlet to see the bay at the northern extremity.* 
 Now, this place being but 140 nautical miles from Port Simpson, 
 or, say ten hours steaming through the safest and finest channels in the 
 world, i.e., the " Grenville " and " Douglas " Channels, the former of 
 which has been used for years, and safely navigated during the darkest 
 and most stormy nights of winter by both British and American steam- 
 ships bound up and down between Sitka and southern ports, being also 
 accessible from the ocean by "Nepean " and " Wright" Sounds, having 
 also the advantage of havens of refuge at two places in the Grenville 
 Canal, viz : Klewnugget Inlet and Lowe Inlet, besides Kitkatlah Bay on 
 the west side of the Douglas Channel, and " Coghlin Anchorage " under 
 the lee of Promise Island, not to speak of Clio Bay situated five or six 
 miles south from the mouth of the river Kitimat, which not only affords 
 anchorage, but also facilities for the construction of a dry dock, I dare 
 affirm that it is extremely well situated for a terminus, being as near to 
 Yokahama, Japan, as Port Simpson, viz : 4,000 geographical miles, 
 and 400 miles shorter than the southern passage from Burrard Inlet. 
 
 I shall refer further on, to the marine engineermg works required to 
 transform the upper end of the Douglas Arm into a good harbour, and 
 shall now proceed to describe the features of the railway route from 
 
 'NOTK. — Mr. Marcus Smith was the offiocr in charg'c of the wi stern section uutil ls"7. Ho his an 
 intimate knowledge of British Columbia.
 
 Kitimat, eastward to a point on the now located soutberu line, known as 
 "Livingston," distant G82 miles from Thunder Bay, on Lake Superior. 
 
 A circumstance which, more perhaps than anything else, commends 
 this route to our consideration, is the extraordinary fact that the formi- 
 dable coast range of mountains which necessitates such frightful expen- 
 diture on the "Yale Kamloops," " Homathco," " Kemsquit," and Port 
 Simpson routes, can be passed upon this one, with nearly as httle trouble, 
 danger or cost, as upon an average prau*ie section, the valley of the 
 Kitimat being several miles in width, of a nearly level character, and 
 clothed with a magnificent forest of heavy spruce, hemlock, cedar, and 
 other trees, amongst which crab-apple and maple may occasionally be 
 seen. 
 
 From tide water at the head of Douglas Arm, the valley rises 
 almost imperceptibly for about 20 or 25 miles, at the rate of four- 
 tenths per himdred to the "Divide," near Lake " Killoosah " or " Lakelse," 
 thence the descent to the Skeena,or to some point upon that river nearly 
 opposite the " Kitsumkallum " River, is very gradual, the entire distance 
 probably not exceeding forty (40) miles. The mouth of the " Kitsum- 
 kallum" Eiver is, by Mr. Keefer's estimate, about seventy-five miles 
 above Port Essington, or rather more than 100 miles from Port Simpson, 
 within which distance the work of railway construction along the Skeena 
 would be extremely heavy, the line proposed being carried in the river 
 bed in many places where the mountain bases afford little chance for a 
 road-bed. In more than a dozen places the precipitous slopes are swept 
 by avalanches of the most dangerous character. The shores of Wark 
 Inlet are but little better. The contrast between those routes is very 
 striking, and, as has been shown, the distance between Kitsumkallum 
 and the sea is very much more than doubled on the difficult and expen- 
 sive Skeena line. Rouglily estimating, for the sake of comparison, the 
 cost of construction on that portion of the Skeena route at six n^.Hlion 
 dollars, and that of the Kitimat at one-and-a-half million dollars, we 
 have a difference in the first section from tide water of four-and-a-half 
 millions dollars, not to speak of extra cost for maintenance and repairs, 
 which would, of course, be very much greater on the Port Simpson, Skeena 
 route. One-fourth of that difference would go far towards the formation 
 of an excellent terminal harbour at the head of the Douglas Arm. 
 
 From a point opposite Kitsumkallum River, on the left bank of the 
 Skeena, the distance, to Hazclton,or the " Forks,"is little more than seventy
 
 8 
 
 (70) miles. In' this distance, according to the careful estimate of Mr. II. 
 MacLeod, the grades would be very moderate, and the proportion of heavy 
 "work small, say about one-seventh, or ten miles, the balance moderate 
 and light. Vide page 59, Mr. S. Fleming's Eeport of 1880. 
 
 At the 110th mile the line would attain, with very moderate grades 
 tliroughout, an elevation above sea of nea.ily one thousand feet, upon the 
 high terraces at the base of the Rocher Deboul6 Mountain. Here it leaves 
 the Skeena to follow the valley of the ""Wotsonqua" for 117 miles, to the 
 summit between the waters of the latter and those of the " Intaqnah." 
 Mr. H. J. Gamble, thus describes this section, at page 39, Appendix C. 
 of Mr. S. Fleming's Report for 1878 :— 
 
 " The Eiver Wotsonqua, from its mouth at the ' Forks,' up to the 
 " Indian Village of ' Awkelget,' 27 miles, runs through a deep Canon. 
 " The works would be generally heavy, but some exceedingly so, with 
 " stiff gradients and sharp curves. From ' Awkelget ' upwards, the 
 " valley is favorable for railway construction, works would be moderate, 
 " with easy grades for about 90 miles, to the summit between the waters 
 *' of the Wotsonqua and Intaquah, distant 300 miles from Port Simpson, 
 " and about 2,400 feet above sea level. Thence to the valley of the 
 " ' Ncchaco,' the works would be moderate, with easy grades." 
 
 One would infer from the foregoing description that in the 27 miles 
 between the " Forks " and Awkelget, the line would follow the Canon of 
 the Wotsonqua. This would not be the case, the line would take higher 
 ground upon terraces several hundi-ed feet above the river level, and no 
 great difficulty would be encountered in a large proportion of the 27 miles 
 below Awkelget. Moreover, between the village of " Kitsigeuchle " — 
 situated 15 miles below the Forks of Skeena — and the latter, there is 
 f iirly level ground along the mountain bases, where the works would be 
 quite moderate, and upon which i\ line can be carried with easy gradients 
 up to a level entirely above the rough Canon of the Wotsonqua. I have 
 been over the ground, above and below the " Forks," and know this to be 
 the case, so we must not assume the whole distance Mr. Cambie refers to 
 — 27 miles — nor anything like it, to involve heavy work. However, ac- 
 cepting his estimate, the balance of the distance to the Wotsonqua Sum- 
 mit, consists of moderate work with light gradients, for 90 miles. 
 
 From the Wotsonqua Summit, at the 227th mile from Kitimat, 
 there is no difficulty as to work's or grades, as far as the Stewart Eiver 
 (distance 95 miles.) Vide page 53, Mr. S. Fleming's Eeport for 1880. 
 
 From Stewart Eiver to MacLeod Lake (distance, 75 miles) there
 
 will be about twenty (20) miles of heavy work, with grades in some 
 places exceeding one per hundred, the balance will be moderate to light. 
 (Vide pages 53 and 61, Mr. S. Fleming's Report, 1880.) 
 
 From MacLeod Lake to " Pine Pass " Summit, the distance is forty 
 (40) miles, of which about one-fifth involves heavy work, in addition to 
 some deep cutting at the approaches to the River "Parsnip," the balance 
 wUl be of medium character, and grades not in excess ©f one per hun- 
 dred. (Vide pages 52 and 63, Railway Report, 1880.) The "Pine 
 Pass Summit is at the 437th mile from " Kitimat." 
 
 Mr. Gamble travelled fi-om Hudson's Hope to Pine River, which he 
 came upon 35 miles east from the summit. Of the portion he saw, 
 seven miles are described as heavy. He also refers to the necessity for 
 some protective works at a few precipitous points upon the river, but 
 apart from these, he savv^ no serious obstructions, and anticipates none 
 as far as the " Lower Forks," 75 miles east from Pine Pass Summit. 
 
 Mr. MacLeod describes the next section, i. e., from the "Lower 
 Forks " of Pine River, eastward to Smoky River, a distance of 139 
 miles. He estimates that in this portion there may be, perhaps, 20 miles 
 of heavy work, the balance light and moderate. {Vide pages G4 and 
 65, Mr. S. Fleming's Report, 1880.) 
 
 Between Smoky River and Lesser Slave Lake, no member of the 
 Peace River Expedition took the direct line, Mr. H. Gamble having 
 strayed to the south-east, while Mr. MacLeod divei-ged purposely 
 towards the Athabasca River. The former, however, ^ travelled 
 over the trail between Slave Lake and Peace River, a distance, he esti- 
 mates to be 55 miles. Mr. Gamble anticipates however no difiiculties 
 whatever, between the points in question. The estimated distance is 
 60 miles. 
 
 From the western end of Lesser Slave Lake, the line would follow 
 the south shore to its outlet, descend Slave River, and cross the Atha- 
 basca, on a du-ect Ihie for Lac La Biche, or some point slightly south of 
 it. Mr. Gamble saw notliing of this section. I did however, in 1872, 
 and from Mr. Gordon's cursory observations rf^garding the low flat land 
 adjacent to Little Slave River, and his account of the country from tho 
 Athabasca Landing eastward, it is certain that the works throughout 
 will be of very moderate character. 
 
 Between the Athabasca and the meridian of Lac La Biche, there
 
 10 
 
 arc, accovJiiig to Mr. Gortlon, some 21 miles oF rathoi- poor soil, but tbo 
 country becomes very ricb on going east. The estimatod distance from 
 Lesser Slave Lake's western extremity to Lac La Biche is about 200 
 miles, nearly all remarkably favorable for railway construction. A 
 crossing of the Athabasca can be eftected anywhere, the waterway would 
 not exceed GOO feet. A very large proportion of the land in this section is 
 fit for agriculture and the growth of wheat. 
 
 Between Lac La Biche and Livingston, the distance, with a hand- 
 some allowance for deviations, is 470 miles, over a gently undulating 
 country, of which by far the greater portion is better adapted for 
 agricultural purposes than any on the Saskatchewan. In this connec- 
 tion, the reports of Messrs. M. Smith, O'Keefe, Eberts, Macoun and 
 King, in regard to its agricultural capabilities, may be of interest. 
 
 The first named gentleman, in speaking of this large section, says, 
 at page 47, Eeport of 1878 : — " Followmg up the valley of the Swan River 
 " about 30 miles, the line would take a direct course for the Saskatchewan, 
 " near Fort a la Corne," " The land in the Valley of Swan Eiver 
 *' is reported by the Purveyors to be very rich and of considerable ex- 
 *' tent ; the soil on the Basquia Hills is also reported good ; while the 
 " belt between these hills and the Saskatchewan, extending fi'om the 
 " Prince Albert settlement, above the Grand Forks, down to the Old 
 " Fort, a distance of over 90 miles, is exceedingly rich land." 
 
 " From the Saskatchewan, the line would be nearly direct to the 
 " foot of the Lesser Slave Lake, skirting the north side of the Moose 
 " Hills, on the water shed of the Beaver River and passing the south 
 " end of Lac La Biche or Red Deer Lake. Low ranges of hiUs skirt the 
 " north bank of the Saskatchewan from a point a few miles above Fort 
 " Carleton nearly to Victoria ; these are partially covered with groves of 
 " aspen and willow ; the soil is generally Ught, but is well supplied with 
 •' streams of clear water ; the pasturage is good, especially in the 
 *' neighbourhood of Fort Pitt." 
 
 " Between these hills and the River the soil is generally sandy, 
 " and there are numerous salt or alkaline lakes ; but immediately north 
 ** of the hills, tlie soil is stated by the officers of the Hudson's Bay 
 " Company, to be very good. There are numerous fresh water lakes, 
 ♦' abounding ni white fish." 
 
 " The writer drove out 16 miles north-west of Carleton, and found 
 " the character of the country gradually improving, as he had been led 
 " to expect fi-om the description of it given by Mr. Clarke, the Chief
 
 11 
 
 " Factor at the Fort, who has spent mauj' years in this district. AuEx- 
 " cursion was also made from Fort Pitt to Lac La Biche. The south 
 " slope of the Moose Hills, where the trail runs, is covered with a dense 
 " grove of aspen ; but in crossing the west end of these hills, a mag- 
 *' nificeut prospect opened out. Stretching away to the east, north and 
 '* west, as far as the eye could reach, there appeared a vast, undulating, 
 " grassy plain, rising in places into softly rounded hills, dotted and in- 
 " tersected with groves and belts of aspen mixed with spruce and tama- 
 " rac and clumps of willows. This appears to have been formerly 
 " forest, which has probably been destroyed by fire, decayed trunks of 
 " large trees being found on the hill sides. In the hollows, however, 
 " there is sufficient timber left for railway and domestic purposes. The 
 " altitude, taken at several points, averages about 1,700 feet above the 
 " sea level." 
 
 " During three days, whenever the trail was left, great difficulty was 
 " found in forcing a way through thick masses of grass and pea- vine, 
 " three to four feet in height, and sometimes reaching nearly to the 
 " horses' backs. As Lac La Biche was neared, the country became 
 " more wooded, and the track lay through long glades between belts of 
 " poplar and wiUows, passing a number of small fresh water lakes." 
 
 " There is a Roman Catholic Mission at Lac la Biche, where they 
 " produce excellent wheat, barley, oats and all kinds of vegetables ; there 
 " are about -±0 families settled round the Lake, chiefly half-breeds, en- 
 " gaged in the fur trade, and only cultivating enough of cereals and 
 " vegetables for their own use. Between this point and the Lesser Slave 
 " Lake, the Line crosses the Eiver Athabasca. This country has not 
 " been explored for the Eailway." 
 
 " The line would follow either the south or north shore of Lesser 
 " Slave Lake, as might be determined by the Surveys. After passing that 
 " lake, it enters on a vast region of great fertility, extending far north- 
 " ward on both sides of the Peace River, and westward to Pine Eiver, 
 " which falls into the Peace near Fort St. John." 
 
 " By this route, what is termed the fertile belt, or wheat-producing 
 *' country, extends nearly three hundred miles farther to the west before 
 " the Eocky Mountains are reached than by the route over the Yellow- 
 " head Pass ; a corresponding reduction being made in the breadth of 
 " sterile country to be crossed in the Eocky Mountain district." 
 
 The total length of line just described, from Kitimat to Livingston, 
 is 1,381 miles. 
 
 From English Bay, Burrard Inlet, to the same point (Livingston), 
 the measured distance is 1,281 miles. Thus, there is a diflFerence of 100 
 miles in favour of the soiithern route.* 
 
 • Note.— The reader should read carefully the reports of Messrs. McLcod and Gamble. Railway 
 Report of 18i0.
 
 12 
 
 A line from Kitiiuat, via Ilazclton, Babiiie, tlio Kotsine Pass, and 
 the rivcrn Oineiiica and Peace, would only bo some 80 miles longer than 
 the Burrnrd Inlet line. The " Pino Pass " route is, notwithstanding its 
 greater length, preferable. Although being 70 miles longer than the 
 line via the " Peace River Pass," its construction would be less costly, 
 the gradients throughout much more moderate, and it would open up a 
 greater extent of cultivable and pastoral land. We shall, therefore, 
 confine the discussion to the " Pine Pass " route, and for a description 
 of the " Kotsine Pass " and Peace River Line, the reader can, if desir- 
 ous, find one at page 75, Appendix No. 5, of Mr. Fleming's Report for 
 1880, where an account of the, writer's examination, dming the season 
 of 1870, is given, m extenso. 
 
 At page 8 of the last Railway Report, Mr. Fleming institutes a 
 comparison of the Port Simpson, Peace River; Port Simpson, Pine 
 River ; and Port Simpson, Yellow Head routes. They are represented 
 there as being, respectively, 190 miles, 255 miles, and 225 miles, longer 
 than the Burrard Line. With all due deference to that gentleman, I 
 am obliged to differ from him in this matter. The comparison is unfair, 
 Fort Saskatchewan, the point to which those lines are referred, not 
 being properly common to all, and certainly not being on the " Pine " 
 or " Peace " River lines. 
 
 Taking Livingston as the common point for all, the real difference 
 between Port Simpson lines, via Peace and Pine Rivers, and the Bur- 
 rard route, is, respectively, 100 miles and 170 miles, while from the 
 •' Ivitimat," the actual difference is further reduced to 30 miles and 100 
 miles, in the respective cases, as befove shown. 
 
 Giving to the southern, Burrard Line, then, its undoubted advantage 
 in distance (100 miles) ovea the Pine River route, wo shall institute a 
 rough comparison of the engineering features pertaining to each of the 
 two lines now in discussion. 
 
 Between Livingston and the Yellow Head Pass, a distance of 771 
 miles, there are 75 or 80 bridge structures over streams and dry ravines, 
 some of which are of very great magnitude. Notably, two crossings of 
 the Saskatchewan, and those of Eagle Creek, the Pembina, MacLeod, 
 Athabasc a and Assiniboiue Rivers, the width of waterways varymg fi-om 
 40 feet to 1600 feet. The approaches to those are also very difficult, in 
 some cases involving excessive excavations.
 
 13 
 
 There are also 2425 feet of tunnelling near the Yellow Head Pass. 
 Between the Yellow Head Pass and Fort Moody (492 miles), there is an ag- 
 gregate of 2^ miles of tunnelling, and there are also 174 bridges with 
 spans varying from 40 to 275 feet. The gradients are, however, kept within 
 the maximum of one per hundred. Between Yellow Head and the 
 village of Yale (403 miles), fully 70 per cent, of the distance will entail 
 very heavy work, and in the portion now under contract (125 miles), the 
 work throughout is excessively heavy, and will cost at least $100,000 
 per mile, equal, for that insignificant distance, to $12,000,000. For half 
 the distauce^between Yale and Port Moody, the work is classed as heavy. 
 In the whole distance between the Yellow Head and Port Moody (492 
 miles), there will ba more than 320 miles of heavy work. The cost of 
 this British Columbian section, from Rocky Mountain Summit (Yellow 
 Head Pass), to the sea, is estimated, or rather underestimated, at 
 thirty-two million dollars. 
 
 Taking up the latest Reports of Messrs. Cambie and MacLeod, we 
 gather that upon the "Ivitimat, Pine Pass" route, from a point on 
 the Skeena, opposite the Kitsumkallum River, via Hazelton, the 
 Wotsonqua Valley, and the Pine River Pass, to the last named summit 
 of the Rocky Mountains, those gentleman estimate that there are about 
 seveJity-five (75) miles of heavy work. 
 
 The corresponding section upon the southern lino, as already shown, 
 gives 320 miles of heavy work. 
 
 Between the Pine River Pass and the Smoky River, they report 
 ;-)0 miles of heavy work, including three miles of heavy excavation ou 
 each side of the last named stream. From Smoky River, eastward, to 
 the meridian of Lac La Biclie, a distance of 2G0 miles, the country is 
 generally so favorable, that the proportion of heavy work upon that 
 section is but trifling. The streams to be crossed upon this route, are 
 fewer than upon the southern line, and far less difficult to bridge, the 
 principal among them being the Athabasca (600 to 700 feet), the Smoky 
 River (750 feet), the accent Echaland (300 feet), the Mud (400 feet), (he Pinft 
 (500 feet), the Parsnip (COO feet), the Stewart, (GOO feet). Between 
 Lac La Biclie and Livingston, (470 miles,) the -country is, according lo 
 the best authority, quite as favorable, probably more so, than ilie cor- 
 responding portion west from Livingston, upon the southern line. 
 
 Taking the mileage upon the respective routes, Irom Rocky Mouu-
 
 14 
 
 tain Summit to Pacific tide water, and calculating the heavy work given 
 in tlic reports at $75,000 per mile, we find that upon the Burrard 
 Inlet line there are : — i 
 
 820 Miles of Heavy Work @ $75,000. . . . $24,000,000 
 173 " Moderate" 50,000.... 8,650,000 
 
 493 $32,650,000 
 
 And upon the " Kitimat Pine Pass " line, 
 
 75 Miles of Heavy Work @ $75,000. . . . $5,025,000 
 
 3G2 " Moderate" 50,000.... 18,100,000 
 
 437 $23,725,000 
 
 Giving a difference in cost of $8,925,000, in favour of the northern 
 Pine Pass Line. But on the latter, there are, at the lowest calculation, 
 20 miles in the valley of the Kitimat, and 90 miles in that of the W^ot- 
 sonqua, 110 miles in all, far easier to construct than the lightest portion 
 of the Frazer Eiver line, so that we may safely assume the total cost of the 
 northern, British Columbian section (487 miles) at twenty-two millions, 
 or say a difference of ten millions dollars, between the two hnes. The 
 reader can here turn to page 57, Appendix E, Railway Report of 1878, 
 for Mr. Cambie's estimates of cost 
 
 It is not so easy to form comparisons of cost from Rocky Mountain 
 Summit, eastward to the common point, Livingston, as no systematic 
 examinations have yet been made east from Lesser Slave Lake. It is, 
 however, certain that the northern line will be found quite as easy of 
 construction, probably far more so, than the southern, owing to the fact 
 that east from the Smoky River to Livingston, the general profile of the 
 country is more uniform than on the southern Ime, and that there are 
 fewer streams to cross, and only one crossing of the Saskatchewan 
 uecQssary. 
 
 At page 48, Report of 1878, Mr. Marcus Smith says of the engin- 
 eering features of the Northern line, via Pine Pass : — 
 
 " It is difficult to form even an approximate estimate of the cost of 
 '• construction without surveys, but the explorations across the Rocky 
 " Mountains show that a very great reduction can be made on the rock 
 " and earth excavations by the line through Pine River Pass as compared 
 " with the line by the Yellow Head Pass, On the Summit there will
 
 15 
 
 " be about eight mUes of heavy work. Uu tlae west side oi tiie pas 
 " the point of junction of the two lines the works will be very light, mxd 
 '' the cost probalihj not more than half thut on the other line, mile for mile. 
 
 *' The bridging on both lines will be rather heavy in the centralor 
 " prairie region and on the eastern slope of the Eocky Mountains, but 
 " the number of very large structures will be much greater on the 
 " southern than on the northern route. 
 
 " On the tchole, the cost of the uorks of construction on this route may 
 " be sajehj estimated, so far as our examination extends, as very considerably 
 " beloiv that on the other route." 
 
 An examination of the latest reports shows that, with the exception 
 of a few miles on the section between " Stewart" and ''MacLeod" Lakes, 
 and at the approaches to the Smoky Eiver, the grades can be kept within 
 a maximum of one per hundred, while the features of the country 
 passed by the northern line are so favorable, compared with the 
 southern route, that curvature will probably be far less, at least within 
 the Kocky Mountain and Cascade Zone, t. e., upon the Pacific Slope. 
 
 From tide water, at the head of Douglas Arm, to Livingston, the 
 general profile of the northern line is the most remarkable upon the 
 North American continent. In the 625 miles west from the Smoky 
 Eiver, there are only four summits, ranging, in altitude, from 2,400 
 feet to 2,750 feet above sea level. The " Pine Pass " summit is placed 
 at an elevation of 2,800 feet, an estimate which I have reason to think 
 slightly in excess of the reality. 
 
 Having now compared to some extent the engineering features of 
 the two lines, the capabilities for settlement — a matter of exceeding im- 
 portance — of the regions traversed by the rival routes, demand investiga- 
 tion. On the southern line, from Ijivingston to the Eiver Pembina — some 
 fifty miles west from Edmonton — which may be set down as the western 
 limit of the good, agricultural land on that parallel, there is a fair 
 proportion of laud fit for settlement and pastoral purposes. 
 
 On the northern route, between Livingston and the meridian of the 
 Pembma Eiver, the whole country, with the exception of a small portion 
 near the Athabasca, is well adapted for settlement. [ Vide reports of 
 Messrs. Marcus Smith, O'Keefe, Eberts, Macoun King and others.] 
 At Lac La Bicbe, wheat has been for many years an unfailing crop ; 
 tobacco has also been very successfully raised. 
 
 Indeed, an inspection of the reports of the above named gentlemen,
 
 16 
 
 and o\iy previous knowledge of that region, leads to the inevitable conclu- 
 sion that the northern line, as proposed in 1874, passes through a 
 country, equal for purposes of settleraent, to that south of the North 
 Saskatchewan. The proportion of good land is as great, while wood for 
 fuel and other purposes is more abundant, fresh water lakes of more 
 frequent occurrence, the aspect of the country more prepossessing, and its 
 altitude less, than on the southern line. 
 
 Of the country upon the southern line, between Lake St. Ann (a few 
 miles east from the Pembina,) and the Rocky Mountains, Mr. H. 
 MacLeod, C.E,, speaks in the following strain. [See page 202, Eeport 
 1877J:— 
 
 " The soil is principally heavy clay, and in places, sand. Frequent 
 " rains, not being permitted to sink into the ground, by the compactness 
 " of the clay, form large areas of muskeg. There are a few places where 
 " the soil in the valleys is fan-." 
 
 Ice has been seen in those muskegs referred to by Mr. MacLeod, 
 during the month of August. The Reverend George Grant, author of 
 " Ocean to Ocean," remarks of this region, at page 193 : — " Poor, scrubby 
 timber, the land cold and hungry." Idem at page 200: "Brush has 
 decided autumnal tints," August 31,72. " Country of a decided poverty- 
 stricken look. " " Miles of muskeg." 
 
 The reverend gentleman, was decidedly right. The whole region 
 between the Pembina River and Jasper House is cold and clayey, and 
 covered with muskeg for long stretches. Its altitude varies from 2,500 
 feet to 3,400 feet above sea. It is, as expressed years ago in "Canada 
 on the Pacific," " cold, swampy, and imfitted for settlement." 
 
 The distance from Lake St. Ann, the western limit of the good land 
 or fertile belt upon the southern line, to Jasper House, is about 160 
 miles. 
 
 From Ja&per House to a point near Kamloops — nearly 300 miles 
 — the country is totally unfit for settlement. I have never passed over 
 this section, but sliall quote from authentic sources. Mr. George Keefer, 
 ®ne of Mr. Flemmg's engineers, says at page 3a5, Pacific Railway Report 
 of 1877: — In the Frascr River Valley, "but of the 12 months, two and 
 " even less would be all that could be relied upon as exempt from frosts, 
 " but few cereals could be raised in this locality. The amount of arable 
 " land in the valley of the Frazer is so small that it is hardly ever likely 
 '• to be taken into consideration."
 
 17 
 
 Mr. Marcus Smith says at page 45, Report of 1878: — • 
 
 " From the Pembiua River across the Rocky Mountains' to a point 
 ^' near Kamloops — 420 miles — is totally unfit for settlement. There is 
 " another length of 100 miles in the canyons of the Thompson and 
 ^' Frazcr in a similar condition. So that from the River Pembina, on the 
 '' east side of the Rocky Mountains, to the proposed terminus at Port 
 " Moody, a distance of 679 miles, there are 520 miles on which there is 
 " no land fit for settlement, and on the balance most of the land of any 
 " value is taken up ; in all this distance, therefore, there will scarcely be 
 " an acre within GO to 100 miles of the line at the disposal of the Govem- 
 " ment for Railway purposes. The works, moreover, will be generally 
 *' heavy and costly." 
 
 The Reverend George Grant says at pages 202 and 821 of •' Ocean 
 to Ocean : " — 
 
 " Were we to judge from what we have seen of the country along 
 " the Frazer and Thompson Rivers, the conclusion would be forced on 
 " us tliat British Columbia can never be an agricultural country." 
 " But the greater part of the mainland is a Sea of Monntaiivi, and 
 " the province will have to depend on its other resources for any large , 
 " increase of population." [Idem at page 321.) " The little tliat we 
 " saw ot the mainland of British Columbia, does not warrant us to say 
 " much about it as a field for emigrants." 
 
 The discussion of the agricultural capabilities of British Columbia, 
 will be resumed further on. We shall at present return to the Eastern 
 side of the Rocky Mountains. Between Lac la Biche and the western 
 extremity of Lesser Slave Lake, there may be, perhaps, 25% of poor 
 soil, but from the latter, westward to the " Middle Forks" ef Pino 
 River, a distance of 225 raiies, the northern line will pass through a 
 highly favoured portion of the North- West. Some years ago, when 
 I mooted the project of the Pine River Pass route, I was, to a certain 
 extent, aware of the great dissimilarity between the lands on each 
 route. Now, I am able to quote- from other reliable sources, from en- 
 tirely disinterested persons, and from Mr. Macouu, a strong partisan 
 of the southern line, who, despite his predilection cannot speak otherwise 
 than in the most extravagant terms of the Peace River region. 
 
 At page 113 of Mr. S. Fleming's Report for 1880, Doctor Dawsou 
 thus defines the boundaries of the southern portion of the Peace River 
 country : — " With the ' Middle Forks' of the Pine River (only fifty miles 
 " east from th3 summit of the Rocky Mountains, in latitude aoJ,' N.), as a 
 " western limit, the region now to be described may be considered as 
 " boimded to the north by the 57tl: parallei to its intersection eastward 
 
 2
 
 18 
 
 " witk tlio Peace River. Thence tlie boundary may bo assumed to 
 " follow the Pence Kivcr soutliward to the mouth of ' Ifeart Brook,' near 
 " the coniluence of the Smoky Ptivcr. Tiicnce to run south-eastward to 
 " the extremity of Lesser Slave Lake, to follow the western border of tho 
 " liilly re^'ioii lying to the south of the lake, to the Athabasca Ptiver ; 
 " thence to follow the Athabasca westward to the foot-hills, and skirting 
 " the foot-hills to run north-westward to the first mentioned point on 
 " Pine itiver. The tract included in the above limits has an area of 
 " about 81,550 square miles, and b}^ far the greater portion of this area 
 " may be classed as fertile." 
 
 The above definition of boundaries agrees, so far as it goes, with 
 those given by mj^self at page 228, "Canada on the Pacific." Doctor 
 Dawson goes on to say: — "The soil of this district may be described 
 " as a fine silt, and not dissimilar from the loess-like material con- 
 " stituting the sub-soil of the Eed River Valley in Manitoba. As evi- 
 " denccd by its natural vegetation, its fertility is great. Tlie total area 
 " of prairie land west of the Smoky River may be about 8,000 square 
 " miles. The total area of land with soil suitable for agriculture, may 
 " be estimated as, at least, 23,500 square miles. The luxuriance of the 
 " natural vegetation m these Peace River prames is truly wonderful, 
 " and indicates not only fertility, but also sufficient rainfall. It 
 " may be stated at once that the ascertained facts leave no doubt 
 " on the subject of the sufficient length and warmth of the season to 
 " ripen wheat, oats and barley, the only point which may admit of ques- 
 " tion being : to what extent tiie occurrence of late and early fi'osts may 
 " interfere with growth." 
 
 Professor Selwyn says, at page 62, Geological Report of 1875 ; — 
 
 " I consider it a region (the Peace River country above Fort St. 
 " John,) far fitter for settlement than much of the Saskatchewan. 
 " country." We are now in the midst of September( 1875). The ther- 
 " mometer has only once reached 32° Fahrenheit. As a contrast to this, it 
 " will be seen in my Report upon the Saskatchewan country in 1873, that 
 " in the region about Edmonton and Victoria, two degrees fiu'ther south, 
 " and about the same elevation, the thermometer fell, on the 4th Sep- 
 " tember, to 28° ; on the 6th, to 24° ; on the 11th, to 20^^, and agam to 
 " 20° on the night of the 23rd. At page 51, Professor Selwyn says : — 
 " "We came upon a fine level country covered wdth the richest herbage^ 
 " of astonishing luxuriance. I have seen nothing in the Saskatchewan 
 " country that at all equals it, both soil and climate are better here. 
 At page 68, he remarks : — " I have no hesitation m saying that 
 " the Pine River Route is probahli/ in every respect tlie best in the interest of 
 " the Railway and of the coiintn/ at larye. It will be found that by ' Pine 
 " River Pass,' the line could be carried almost the whole distance, 
 " through a magnificent, agricultural and pastoral country. 
 
 Mr. John Macouu, botanist, says at page 154 of the Geological
 
 19 
 
 Eeport of 1875. He is speaking of the country near St. John's on the 
 Peace Kiver. " 2')th Jahi, IST-l. The oats stood five feet high. For 
 " nine miles the distance travelled, the country was covered with the 
 " most luxuriant vegetation. It would be folly to attempt to depict the 
 " appearance of the country, it was so much beyond what I ever saw 
 " before. The soil must be exceedingly rich to support such a growth 
 " year after year, and the early summer temperature must be high, 
 " for the vegetation to be so far advanced at this period. All the cul- 
 *• tivation at St. John is on the terrace, immediately above the spring 
 " flood level, but there is no reason lohy cereals should fail on the 
 " plateau above as the soil is there, if anything, better. I never wit- 
 " uessed such an astonishing growth of herbaceous plants. Hhejlora 
 " of this region is almost identical with that of Ontario. The winter 
 " is actually shorter on Peace River than in Manitoba, and the record 
 " shows, that, twelve hundred miles north-west from Fort Garry, a 
 " milder temperature prevails in autumn than at that point." 
 
 In his Report of 1874, Mr. Macoun, also, remarks : — " I am satis 
 " tied that wheat will succeed here (Lesser Slave Lake), as I think there 
 " is a higlier summer temperature here than at Edmonton. What I saw 
 *' of the Peace River country (at least a distance of 200 miles), was 
 " the best land I had seen anywhere. Here is a strip of country, over 
 " 000 miles in length, and at least 100 miles in breadth, containing an 
 " area of GO, 000 square miles, which has a climate in no way inferior to 
 " that of Edmonton." 
 
 " Regarding the quality of the soil throughout the entire region, 
 " my note-book is unvarying in its testimony. It was principally clay 
 " loam, five feet in depth where exposed, but owing to the clay sub-sOil, 
 " it is practically inexhaustible." 
 
 On referring to the reports of Messrs. H. J. Cambie and D. M. 
 Gordon, we find that, despite preconceived ideas and strongly prejudiced 
 though they were in favour of the route via the Yellow Head Pass, those 
 gentlemen are perforce unable to speak but in the highest terms of the 
 Peace River country. One little bug-bear they did find, and they endea- 
 voured to make the most of it. The country would be perfect but for 
 the nocturnal summer frosts which are experienced occasionally. 
 They found wheat growing well in the bottom of the Peace River VaUey, 
 COO feet below the general altitude of the country, and, because they 
 saw no crops on the plateau (no one has yet settled there), they fancy 
 that wheat culture there will be a failure, the cause being, as they say, 
 a colder temperature upon the plateau than in the valley below. Had 
 they taken simultaneous observations for temperature on plateau and 
 in valley, they would probably have found on clear, calm nights, pre- 
 ceded by strong westerly winds (the occasions when those 'frosts usually
 
 20 
 
 occur), tlio air actually colder in the bottom of the deep valley than 
 above, the he ivier, and consequently, colder air being beneath. 
 Every fanner knows this to be the case, low bottoms being generally 
 more subject to frost than higher land. The difference of altitude in 
 this case is not sufficiently great to bring into operation the genorallaw, 
 " that air temperature decreases in inverse ratio to the increase of 
 " altitude. In fact., frosts rarely injure vegetation, unless both air and 
 soil are saturate I with moisture, and the Peace River country is proverb- 
 ially dry. It is known that, in the State of Minnesota, the mercury some- 
 times falls to 20° Fahrenheit without doing injury. 
 
 Speakin^- of Hudson's Hope, Mr. Cambie says of the May frosts : — 
 " It was said by the people there, that the trost was confined to the 
 " valley, and did no J extend to thi plateau.'' 
 
 Mr. Gordon, who never left the beaten trail, remarks at page 103, 
 Railway Report, 1880:— 
 
 "■ It might, therefore, be premature to pronounce even the most 
 " fertile portions of this plateau suitable for tiie growth of grain. Yet, 
 " various considerations seem to warrant the conclusion that climatic 
 " conditions are not less favourable on the plateau than in the valley. 
 " Frost sometimes occurs in the valley, when not felt on the platean." 
 
 Doctor Dawson, an unprejudiced person, and a better authority, 
 remarks at page 117, Railway Report, 1880 : — " In my diary of Septem- 
 ber 5th, I find the following entry : "— " Aspenf^ and berry bushes about 
 " the Peace River Valley now looking cjuite autumnal ; on the plateau, 
 " 8l0 ft. higher, not nearly so much so. This difference appears to be 
 " actual." In October, 1872, Mr. Ploretzky remarked the same circum- 
 " stance." 
 
 At pa^e 9 of his last Report, I\lr. S. Fleiiiing remarks, with refer- 
 ence to the Peace River country : — *' The explorations do not e-^tahUsli 
 " beyond question its adaptability for the systeviatic growtli of the higher 
 " cerea/s." Again, at page 10 :— "No frost' was experienced at Ed- 
 " monton in last August, a fact which suggests that the Peace River 
 " District cannot be considered equal to tha Sasliatchewa')i in point of 
 " climate/' 
 
 At page 119 of the same Report, Doctor Dawson, in speaking of the 
 countiy around Edmonton on the Saskatchewan, says : — " The climate, 
 " in its great diurnal and annual range, corresponds exactly with. 
 '• that of the Peace, River country. Fort Saskatchewan is situated 
 " on the brow of the Saskatchewan Valley, about seventy feet above 
 " the river, and therefore, probably less liable to frosts than either 
 " the bottom of the river valley, or extensive ffat tracts of plain where 
 " there is little circulation of air. It v:oukl be 2^rematnre to allov: that
 
 21 
 
 " tlie climate of tlie Peace River is inferior to that of the region about 
 " Ednwutoii on tlie Saskatchcvxin." 
 
 "Wliile on the subject nf frosts, let us again refer to ''Ocean to 
 Ocean." At page 178, the author sajs, he is speaking of the region 
 around Edmonton, on the Saskatchewan : " The remaining difficulty 
 ' is the recurrence of summer frosts. These are dreaded more 
 ' than anything else. . At one place, in June or Jul)'' ; at another 
 ' in Augiist, sharp frosts have nipped the grain. At Edmonton there 
 ' is invariably a night or two of frost, between the 10th and 20th of 
 ' August. At Victoria and Fort Pitt, to the east, at St. Albert 
 ' and Jjake St. Ann, on the west, the grain has sufi'ered more or less, 
 ' frequently, from the same cause. This enemy is a serious one, for, 
 ' against ]t man seems powerless. But, admitting to the full that 
 ' there are such frosts, that no improvement will ensue on the general 
 ' cultivation of the land, the draining of bogs, and the peopling of the 
 ' country, other crops than wheat can be raised. It is only fair to 
 ' the country to add that the power of these frosts to injure must be 
 * judged, not by the thermometer, but by actual experience. It is a 
 ' remarkable fact that frost which would nip grain ui other countries 
 ' is innocuous on the Eed Eiver and on the Saskatchewan. Whatever 
 ' the reason, the fact is undoubted."* 
 
 To-day, despite the frosts, wheat succeeds to admiration at and 
 around Edmonton, and elsewhere on the Saskatchewan, thus proving the 
 groundlessness of the fears expressed by Mr. Fleming's Secretary in the 
 the foregoing quotations. Why, then, not apply the same arguments in 
 the case of the Peace Piver country ? Why lay such stress on the 
 occurrence of frosts as experienced by Messrs. Cambie and Gordon ? 
 What applies in one case will, also, in the other. If the frosts do not 
 injure wheat crops in one part of the North-West, they will not in 
 another, possessed of a similar climate, and Doctor Dawson tells us that 
 the climate of the Peace Fdver region corresponds exactly with that of the 
 Saskatchewan. Professor Selwyn is of the opinion that the Peace Kiver 
 is even better adapted for agriculture than tne Saskatchewan ; while 
 Professor Macoun takes similar ground, and they all admit the superiority 
 of the Peace Eiver region in other respects. Why, wheat succeeds 
 admirably at Fort Simpson and Fort Laird, in latitude 02% four 
 hundred miles further north than the portion of the Peace Eiver country 
 seen by Messrs. Cambie and Gordon, and, if I mistake not, samples of 
 wheat grown near Lake Athabasca took a prize at the Philadelphia 
 Exhibition. It is useless to pursue the argument further, the trivial objec- 
 tions raised by Messrs. Cambie and Gordon, must fall to the ground be 
 
 *NoTK.— The rcaKon is easily explained. Tlie frost is innocuous owinj; t" the extreme dryness of 
 both soil and alnwsphere.
 
 22 
 
 iieatli tliG woif,'lit of testimony quoted above, and when they advance the 
 ridiculous nrgiiinent of a warmer climate in the bottom of the Peace 
 llivor Valley, than on the plateau above, one is inclined to doubt, if the 
 selection of those gentlemen to investigate a subject of such grave import 
 to the country at large, and to the taxpayers in particular were altogether, 
 wise ajid proper. 
 
 Sufficient evidence has now been adduced to convince even the most 
 sceptical that a mistake in the selection of the trans-continental route 
 has been made. It may be addeJ, that the northern line will open up 
 an immense system of navigation, from its crossing point upon the 
 Athabasca Eiver, down to the " Mackenzie," the great lakes, the Arctic 
 Fisheries, and to the immense mineral regions of the Lower Athabasca 
 aufl other streams. 
 
 Doctor Dawson tells us at page 112 of the last Bail way Eeport, 
 1880, that tlie greatest connected region susceptible of cultivation in British 
 Cclimihia, is in tlie flat country of the lower " Nechaco " basin. This 
 region lies immediately south from, and adjacent to, the Pine Pass line. 
 Mr. Macoun rspeak highly of this region, also, and I shall here 
 quote what he says of its soil and climate : — ( Vide pages 134, 135, Geo- 
 logical Pteport of 1875.) 
 
 " Looking back over the 14G miles which lie between Fort St. James 
 " and Quesncl, I am struck with the resemblance of the flora to that of 
 " the forest region west of Lake Superior. Thfre is not a species in the 
 " whole distance which in any way indicates either an alpine or a boreal 
 " climate, except Vaccinium myrtilloides and Empetrum nigrum, and 
 " these wei-e only observed once. The valley of the Nechaco has an 
 " exceedingly rich soil on both sides where the trail crosses, and possibly 
 " this extends for many miles both above and below. The valley of 
 " Steward's lliver is not wide where we crossed it, but it is very rich, 
 " and there is no doubt whatever, in my mind, but that after the two 
 " rivers unite, the valley all the way to Fort George is rich and fertile, 
 " and well suited for settlement. From the crossing of Stewart's River 
 " to Fort St. James, the country was almost impassible, owing to the 
 " constant rains, but the soil is rich, and grass and weeds were very 
 " luxuriant. The country around Lakes Tsin-knt, Ta-chick and Nool-ki 
 " is very fertile, and from the occurrence of so much prairie, together 
 " with the similarity of the flora to that around Edmonton, I consider 
 ♦' the climate of the two i-ogions to be much alike. The former, though 
 " further north, is less elevated, and this, together with the well-known 
 " northern trend of the isothermal lines in N. W. America, more than 
 " compensate for the difference in latitude. The dry summer climate, 
 " which is indicated by the flora, proves the rainfall to be inconsiderable,
 
 23 
 
 ■" and, therefore, tlic jn-ospects are good for the successful cultivation of 
 " grain." 
 
 Westward from that fertile piece of country, the northern line will 
 open up 90 miles of the Wotsonqua Valley, which Mr, H. Gamble 
 describes as such a fine pastoral region, and even fit for agriculture, but 
 for the " bufj-bear," the summer frosts, so that it can be claimed for the 
 northern route, that it will open up as much fertile country on the 
 Pacific slope, as its southern rival — which is not much to boast of. 
 
 It has been shown by the evidence of iir. Fleming's engineers, that 
 the Frazer and Thompson river valleys offer but a trifling quantity of agri- 
 cultural land. The Eeverend George Grant — Mr. Fleming's Secretary 
 on his overland journey in 1872 — tells us very plainly that British 
 Columbia is not an agricultural country, that it is a Sea of Mountains, and 
 ill-calculated to attract immigration, in fact, the exodus of whites during 
 the last fifteen years, has greatly exceeded immigration during the 
 same period. Let us now examine some further testimony bearing par- 
 ticularly upon the " rich lands," recently alleged by the Mail and Globe 
 newspapers, to be available for settlement upon the Burrard Inlet route. 
 
 In the leadmg article of the Mail of Gth May last, an extract from 
 which has ah-ead}' been given on the first page of this paper, we are 
 told :— 
 
 " Tlie main advantage in adopting the Burrard Inlet route, par- 
 " ticularly as opposed to the northern or Port Simpson route, has been, 
 " and will still fui-ther be found to be, in the expediency of the 
 " present routa for colonization purposes, for opening up the best 
 " western lands, and for facilitatmg progress into the prairie country. 
 " The opening up of the Canons of the Fraser to which Mr. Blake 
 " so strongly objects, will, it is alleged, on the fullest and best evidence, 
 *■' give up a large area of fine wheat lands to prospecting settlers. 
 '■'• * * " There can be no doubt that the adoption of tlie Burrard 
 ^' Inlet route, for all the purposes of settlement, agriculture, trade, and 
 " the peaceful growth of a great region, has been wise." 
 
 The Glohe ranted even more wildly during the last Session of Parha- 
 ment, much to the delight and astonishment of the Frazer Eivtr 
 partisans. Now, every sensible man felt at the time that those organs 
 spoke rashly, and with but a glimmering of truth to bear out then- asser- 
 tions. "Where are those fertile areas ? Whose evidence is the fullest and 
 best? It must have been highly interesting to hear honorable members from 
 the Mainland of the " Sea of Mountains," descant, no doubt most
 
 24 
 
 eloquently, apon the prospects of intending settlers. Wli|r, i;pon the 
 lower 85 miles of the sections now let to contract, i.e. between Yale and 
 Spence's IJrid^c, there are not live hundred acres of arable, cultivable 
 land upon which to put a plough or harrow. I shall here quote from 
 Professor Macoun's Report of 1875-7G,. pages 114, 116, 120, 121, of the 
 Geological Eeport of that date: — 
 
 " The valley of the lower Frazer, for agricultural purposes, may be 
 " said to end at Sumass ; but there are nilmbers of small locations where 
 " farming could be done on a limited scale as far up as Fort Hope. Be- 
 " yond this point the valley becomes confined between the mountains, 
 " and these press so upon the river, that, before reaching Yale, the 
 " traveller realizes what a canon is, and the mind is tortured with the 
 " .thought of what might happen if anything went wrong with the boat 
 " or its maclnnery." 
 
 " The Lower Frazer valley has along its left or south bank a range 
 " of low rocky hills, extending from Langly to the inouth of the Sumass 
 " Eiver; and to the southward of these, between them and the spur of 
 •' the Cascades before mentioned, lies the Sumass prairie. Nearly in the 
 " middle of this prairie lies the lake of the same name, about ten miles 
 " long and four broad in its widest part. During the season of flood it 
 " extends from hill-foot to hill-foot, and even after the subsidence of the 
 " waters its mud banks or beaches reach certain points on both sides. 
 " The larger half of the prairie is at the south-west end of the lake, and 
 " is about four miles square." 
 
 " The prairie ground at the north-east end of the lake is bounded by 
 " a belt of trees, separating it from the clear or prairie ground on the 
 " banks of the Chilukweyuk River. The clear ground on both sides of 
 " this river has been apparently formed, partly by the repeated action of 
 " fires destroying the trees, which at one time grew on the higher banks, 
 " and partly by the action of the floods which annually submerge a large 
 " portion of it. These prairies have, during the season of flood, very 
 " much the appearance of immense lakes, being, with the exception of a 
 " higher ridge here and there, almost entirely covered by water. "\Mien 
 " the water subsides the growth on these low grounds and prairies is 
 " most astonishing, reminding one of the luxuriance of the tropics with- 
 " out its peculiar vegetation." 
 
 " On the afternoon of the 18th, I started on foot, expecting a con- 
 " veyance to overtake me and carry me to Boston Bar that evening. As 
 " I wended my way along the river, now examining a steep cliff or peer- 
 " ing down a chasm in search of cryptogams, the Indians would leave 
 " their fishing to look at me, but never addressing a word would gaze for 
 " a short time and disappear. On the dripping rocks along the road I 
 '* obtained fine fruiting specimens of many mosses, prominent amongst
 
 25 
 
 " ■wliicli were Bryum erndum and alhiranx, and anotlier unknown to me, 
 " Polytrichum strirtum was in fine fruit, and vavioiis species of Grinnnia. 
 " Racomitrinm, Muiuin, Orthutricliuni, Hi/imuin and many others well re- 
 " paid me for my trouble. The Alsia obletina was very abundant at 
 " times, and the damp faces of many rocks were covered with beautiful 
 " Hepatia?. The only flowering plants of any note were Arnica cordifolia 
 " and Smilacina unijlora, which were not uncommon. A few miles on 
 " the Yale side of Boston Bar we turned the point of the mountain, and 
 •' almost immediately the plants showed a change in the quantity of 
 " moisture, and, on looking back, the eye at once detected the cause, in 
 " the mountains acting as a barrier to keep out the superabundant 
 " moisture of the Lower Frazer." 
 
 " Lytton is a poor, miserable place, only having three gardens in 
 " the whole village. By utilizing the small brook which comes from the 
 " mountains behind it, many fine vegetables could be raised, as the soil, 
 " where not too much encumbered with stones, is good. Between 
 " Jackass Mountain and Spence's Bridge tliere is very little cuiti cable laud, 
 " and this requires to be irrigated before good crops can be raised." 
 
 Doctor Dawson, at page 246, Appendix S, (Mr. S. Fleming's Eeport 
 of 1877) says of the extent of cultivable land in British Columbia : — 
 
 " It is very diflicult, with the information now accessible, to torm 
 " even an estimate of the quantity of arable land in the interior of British 
 " Columbia. I have only seen a few parts of the southern portion of the 
 " interior plateau, but judging from these, and facts obtained in other 
 " ways, I am inclined to believe that tlie cultivable land e^st of the Frazer is 
 " probabh/ in area less than 1,000 square miles. It is to be remarked, how- 
 " ever, that this area does not at all adequately represent the capacity of 
 " the country to support a population, as a comparatively small patch of 
 " arable land serves the stock-farmer, whose cattle roam over the 
 " surrounding country. West of the Frazer, as far north as the Black- 
 " water, the cultivable areas are very small. The so-called Cldlirotin 
 " Plains lie too liiyh Jar farminrf and \Iie available area in the valley of the 
 " Chilicotin was roughly estimated by me in my report for 1875, at 7,000 
 " acres only. An area of 800 square miles might be perhaps taken as an 
 " estimate of the farming land of this region. North of the Blackwater 
 " is the Lower Xcchaco btisin, already more than once referred to. The area 
 " of thi,s is probably about 1,000 sipiare miles. Bordering on Francois 
 " Lake are considerable stretches of country not raised so much as 300 
 " feet above it, and, therefore, considerably below the 3,000 foot contour. 
 " The soil is very fertile, and the vegetation much resembles that of the 
 " white silt basin. Supposing this country to be suited to the growth of 
 •' barley, oats and the hardier root crops, which appears highly probable, 
 " though no trials have of course been made, an area roughly computed 
 " at about 200 square miles will be added." 
 
 The " cultivable land east of the Frazer," referred to in the above
 
 2G 
 
 quotation, as being, " in area less than 1,000 square miles," (about 
 •equal in extent to an average county in Ontario,) is the only land whicli 
 will be opened for settlement, by the construction of the entire length of 
 the ]>ritis]i Columbian section, which is, by Mr. S. Fleming's estimate, 
 to cost 832,000,000. 
 
 From the summit of Yellow Head Pass to the confluence of the 
 Clearwater and North Thompson — 189 miles — the railway line is within 
 the Piocky Mountain ranges, and there is no land fit for cultivation. 
 Thence down to the meeting of the two branches of the Thompson, the 
 slopes of the hills are covered with " bunch " grass and groves of fir 
 and aspen, but the valley in many places still partakes of the canon 
 character, and, until within 15 miles of the junction at Kamloops, there 
 is scarcely, if any, land fit for settlement, a total of 2-10 miles of per- 
 fectly barren country, devoid even of mmerals, for gold prospectors have, 
 from time to time, thoroughly examined it. The largest tract of arable 
 laud m the valley is contained within the angle formed by the two rivers, 
 and is occupied by an Indian Mission. 
 
 At Kamloops the line may fairly be said to have reached the fertile 
 zone lying between the Rocky and Cascade Mountains. This fertile 
 zone is exceedingly limited as to extent, consisting principally of the 
 interval land in the narrow valleys of the Thompson, Grand Prairie, 
 Similkameeu, Tulamene, Nicola, Buonaparte, Frazer, and lateral 
 connecting valleys. 
 
 Nearly all the good lauds are taken up by speculators, and but a 
 small proportion is yet under cultivation. Nearly all those lands 
 require irrigation, which, when obtainable, conduces to the x^roduction 
 of abundiant crops, as in the Utah Valley. 
 
 Although those arable lands vary in altitude from 1,000 feet to 
 2,000 feet above the sea, they do not suffer materially from summer 
 frosts. 
 
 Such, in brief are the " fine wheat lands " sv^hich the construction 
 of the most formidable 125 miles of railway in the world is to " open 
 out for prospecting settlers." And here, let it be understood, that the 
 localities just named by no means embrace the area of 1,000 square 
 miles alluded to by Doctor Dawson ; they only form a portion of that 
 area, the balance being in the vicinity of Lac La Hache, Quesnelle, 
 and along the upper portion of the waggon-road, and along the Frazer 
 Eiver, fi-om Soda Creek upwards.
 
 The grazing lands in the Kamloops section are, however, excel- 
 lent, but not inexhaustible, for bunch grass when closely cropped 
 gives place to sage and wormwood. 
 
 Mr, Sproat, a provincial authority, estimated the live stock in 
 the Province in 1875 as follows : — 35,000 horned cattle ; G,000 to 
 7,000 horses ; 12,000 to 15,000 sheep ; 10,000 hogs. 
 
 The total white population within this district, i.e., from Yale 
 upwards and eastward, that is to say, as far as Cariboo to the north, and 
 ivootenay to the east, according to the Du'cctory of 1874, was about 
 1,400, distributed as follows : — 
 
 Yale 00 
 
 On waggon-road between Yale and Lytton 25 
 
 Lytton „ 42 
 
 On waggon-road, Lytton to Aslicroft ■ 20 
 
 Ashcroit G 
 
 Cache Creek and vicinity 40 
 
 Clinton, see Lilioet Clinton District 00 
 
 On road, Clinton to Lac la Hache 10 
 
 Lac la Hache 20 
 
 Williams Lake .and St. Joseph Mission 11 
 
 Deep Creek, Soda Creek and Alexandria 25 
 
 Quesnelle GO 
 
 River Trail, Williams Lake to Lilioet 22 
 
 Cariboo 524 
 
 Lilioet, Clinton District 250 
 
 Thompson Eiver, Nicola Yalley, Kamloops 170 
 
 Kootenay 108 
 
 Similkameeu and Okanagan 30 
 
 Total 1,423 
 
 On the line of railway under contract, Y^'ale to Kamloops (125 
 miles) (Directory, 1874), the white population is as under : — 
 
 Yale GO 
 
 On waggon-road, Yale to Lytton, 5G 
 
 miles , 25 Overestimated. 
 
 Lytton 42 
 
 On waggon-road, Lytton to Ashcroft... 20 " 
 
 Aslicroft G 
 
 •Ciiche Creek and vicinity 40 " 
 
 Thompson Eiver and tributaries, in- 
 cluding Kamloops 150 
 
 Total 343
 
 28 
 
 It will l)c said that since 1874 the population has increased. It is 
 true tliat since tliat period a few iudividuals have found their way into 
 the interior of tlig Province, but tlie number has been so limited as to 
 scarcely merit consideration, and, as the population given in the 
 foregoing lists actually exceeds by several dozens the figures in the 
 Directory, we may assume, with tolerable certainty, the actual present 
 population to be but slightly in excess of the number given. There has 
 been a slight increase of population in the New Westminster District 
 during late years. The population of the Frazcr Valley below Yale will 
 be considered further on. 
 
 A railroad buiit upon the verge of a precipice for a distance ot 75 
 miles, tlirough mountain gorges in which no settlement can ever take 
 place, is not what is requii'ed to open communication between the 
 excessively sparse population of the interior of British Columbia and 
 the seaboard. Such a road, once built, would do no business. One 
 passenger train and half a dozen freight trains would transport the 
 enth-e population, bag and baggage, farm produce and all, and then, 
 what would remain ? Two streaks of rust and the right of way — a 
 moniiment to Canadian folly. 
 
 Already there is in those canons as good a waggon-road as 
 need be. A foot passenger upon that road may walk mile after 
 mile without meeting a team. In fact, the present tralfic could 
 be increased fifty - fold without sensible inconvenience, therefore, 
 the construction of a railway between Yale and Kamloops is such 
 an absurdity, that one may well pause to wonder at such a proposed 
 waste of money. In justice, however, let it be said that this matter has 
 never yet been brought home to the full understanding of the masses 
 directly interested. The people of Canada have been obliged to glean, 
 the little they know of this subject from unreliable newspaper articles, 
 and from the official reports of the Eailw^ay Department, neither unim- 
 peachable sources ; and there are so many private interests involved, so 
 many speculations depending for success upon the inauguration (though 
 not necessarily upon the consummation) of this project, that it has 
 well nigh become impossible to arrive at the truth ; in fine, no subject 
 has been more discussed, less understood, and more impudently mis- 
 stated than this. But the warning may be too late, and Canadians, as 
 each year of woeful waste rolls on, with ever increasing taxes, and an 
 unbearable pixblic debt, must resign themselves to the inevitable and
 
 29 
 
 calmly await the financial ruin and political disintegration, wliich 
 must result from such a railway policy. 
 
 Below Yale, the head of navigation on the Frazer River, and west 
 of the Cascade Mountains, the total quantity of laud fit for settlement 
 eventually, has been estimated at 520,000 acres. How much there is of 
 good land worth cultivating has not been yet ascertained with certainty, 
 but it is estimated that about 10,000 acres are under cultivation, or 
 more strictly speaking, under occupation, at the present time. Those 
 lands are feivourably situated, being pierced and partially surrounded 
 by navigable waters. They are accessible all the year round from 
 Victoria, or the coal mines of the Nanaimo District, where farm pro- 
 duce is in constant demand. Notwithstanding all those natural advan- 
 tages, it is a strange fact that scarcely a bag of flour has ever been 
 exported from the Frazer Valley. On the contrary, tiour from San 
 Francisco or Portland in Oregon, and bacon from Chicago is, or has 
 until very recently, been imported for use in the interior. The cause of 
 this is, doubtless, to be ascribed to the almost periodical inundation of 
 this fine land by the high floods of the Frazer in Spring. 
 
 Mr. Marcus Smith in speaking of this District, at page 45, Report 
 of 1878, says : — • 
 
 " Below Hope the valley begins to open up, and it becomes several 
 " miles wide, in places, before New Westminster is reached. The bottom 
 *' flats are generally low and j^avtly prairie land ; the river meandering 
 " through them is occasionally divided into channels or sloughs, forming 
 " numerous islands ; these are thickly clothed with cotton-wood, vine, 
 " maple, willow and other woods. There is good land on the higher 
 " benches, though but little wheat is grown in the district. The reasons 
 " for this, as given by the farmers, are : — The uncertainty of the weather 
 " during the harvest season, tlio alternate rains and hot sunshine causing 
 " the grain to grow in tlie ear before it can be housed ; and, further, 
 " that they find it more profitable to raise stock, coarse grains, hay, and 
 " fruit, and import their Hour than to spend money in producing wheat, 
 " which, at best, would ))rove to be but an inferior article. The cattle 
 '' are reared for the markets of New "Westminster and Victoria ; the hay 
 " and oats are sent to the logging camps, and the fruit to the upper 
 " country. 
 
 " The total area of laud in the valley is estimated at a little over 
 " 500,000 acres : of this but a very small part is uiuUr cultivation, and 
 *' it will require much labour and expense before any extensive increase 
 " can be obtained. The great bulk of the land that could be most 
 *' easily brought under cultivation, lies on the estuary of tlie river below
 
 .30 
 
 " the point wliere the lino loaves the valley for Burrard Inlet ; and most 
 " of the balance is on the opposite side of the river to that on wliich the 
 " line is -located. Much of this laud is subject to overflow from the 
 " floods of the river and from high tides in the Strait. 
 
 " Taken altogether, this is a very fine district, and in course of time 
 " "will have a considerable population ; but it is obvious that t!ie recla- 
 " mation of the low lying lands is not to be brought about by a railway^ 
 " but by means of dykes, embankments, pumping machinery and such 
 " other works and appliances as have been successfully used on lands in 
 " a similar condition. 
 
 " Steamboats already ply between New Westminster and Yale ( 90 
 " miles) twice a "week each "way, and "would do so daily if there were 
 " sufficient traffic. These steamers stop at any point on the river "where 
 " desired for the collection of passengers or freight, however limited in 
 " number or quantity ; a degree of accommodation greater than could be 
 " afforded by any railway. The amount of traffic "v\4iich the valley "would 
 " supply to a railway would be but limited, as its main products go sea- 
 " wards, and four-fifths of the traffic, both of passengers and freight, 
 " "which passes up into the interior is in connection with the Cariboo 
 " Gold Mines, for the necessities of "whose development there must, and 
 " "will ultimately, be found a shorter and better route from some point 
 " on the coast further north. On the "whole, it does not appear that the 
 " prospects of a railway on this route are encouragmg." 
 
 According to the certified list of 1876, the number of voters in this 
 district was 581. 
 
 From the Victoria Directory of 1874 "we gather that there "were at — 
 
 Burrard Inlet 156 Wliites. 
 
 New Westminster 1G4 " 
 
 North Arm Frazer River , . 21 " 
 
 South Ai-m " " 30 " 
 
 Matsqui 22 " 
 
 Sumass 39 " 
 
 Chiiliwack 64 " 
 
 On Frazer above Ne-w Westminster. 29 " 
 
 Langley 46 " 
 
 Boundary Bay and Semiahoo 21 " 
 
 Hope 29 
 
 Total 621 
 
 A Memorandum taken from the Census of 1871 states : — 
 
 ■" The District of New Westminster (see also Burrard Inlet and 
 " Frazer Mouth lists,) returns a population of 1,292 whites, 27 Chinese, 
 " 37 coloured ; natives, no returns, say 300. Total, with natives, 
 " 1,650."
 
 31 
 
 It thus appears that the population of 1871 exceeded that of 1874. 
 The hsts may be erroneous, in any case, the population is exceedingly- 
 scanty. 
 
 As Mr. Smith truly says, it is not a railway that is required. to bring 
 about prosperity to this district, but dykes, pumping machinery, etc., 
 and, na tlie central plateau, branch roads, the improvement of the waggon 
 road, and such public works as are, in actual justice, required for 
 such a sparse population and limited area of agricultural lands. To 
 this end it is not necessary to luild a railway 12;") miles in length, cost- 
 ing 912,000,000. 
 
 As has been remarked, on a preceding page, half the mileage between 
 Yale and Port Moody is classified by the Engineers as hea%x The dis- 
 tance is 90 miles, alongside the navigable waters of the Frazer ; of course, 
 the intention is ultimately to carry the railway to Currard Inlet, so to 
 complete the grand trans-contmental route, and build up a great 
 city at Burrard Inlet, if possible. 
 
 From a point on the Frazer Eiver in the vicinity of Suraass, the 
 distance to Coal Harbour, Burrard Inlet, is about 40 miles. The works 
 will be very heavy along some portions of this piece of road. From 
 Coal Harbour to Cape Flattery the distance is 150 miles, including 
 some very intricate and dangerous navigation according to the 
 authority of Commander Pender, who, at page 300 of S. Fleming's 
 Keport for 1877, says : — " For reasons given in No. 27, Burrard 
 Inlet is, in my opinion, preferable to either of the other places 
 named ; but even here the risks attending the navigation of large steam- 
 ships, against time, amongst the islands lying between Fuca Straits and 
 the Strait of Georgia, are, to me, very great." 
 
 Other naval authorities admit that the approaches to Burrard Inlet 
 from the Straits of Fuca involve more or less intricate navigation, and 
 that the San Juan group of islands, commands those approaches. 
 
 Admiral DeHorscy says : — " The tortuous channel from Burrard 
 " Inlet to sea, through Haro Strait, will frequently be unsafe on account 
 " of the strength of the tide, great prevalence of fog and absence of 
 " anchoring depth. Burrard Inlet itself also, although possessing a safe 
 " port in Coal Harbour, and a good anchorage in English Bay has these 
 " objections, viz. : — that the narrow entrance to Coal Harbour through 
 " the First Narrows is hardly safe for large steamers, in consequence of 
 ** the rapidity of the tide, and that English Bay, although afl'ording 
 " good anchorage, would not, in my opinion, be smooth enough during
 
 32 
 
 " north-wcsto)-ly {{ales for ships to lie at wharves, there being a drift of 
 " forty miles from tlie North-West." 
 
 Aud witli regard to fogs, many navigators have stated their behcf, 
 tliat there is a greater frequency of dense fogs in the Georgian Gulf than 
 on the northern coast ; in this connection, I may not inaptly quote from 
 page 108 of S. Fleming's latest report, in which Doctor Dawson writes: — 
 
 " I have elsewhere stated that fogs do not seem to occur with such 
 frequency in the vicinity of the l^ueeu Charlotte Islands as in the 
 soutlieni part of the btrait of Georgia. La Perouse, the great, but 
 unfortunate navigator, wrote : ' I first thought these seas more foggy 
 ' than those Tvhich separate Europe and America, but I should have 
 ' been greatly mistaken to have irrevocably embraced this opinion. 
 * The fogs of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Hudson's Bay have an 
 ' incontestable claim to pre-eminence from their constant density.' " 
 
 Captain John Pevereux says, at pnge 308, Railway Report of 1877: — 
 
 " Burrard Inlet has a safe and commodious anchorage, two (2) 
 " miles inside the iirst narrows at Coal Harbour, also another seven (7) 
 " miles inside the second narrows at Port Moody ; but, there is one 
 " great objection to either of these places, viz.: both the first and the 
 " second narrows, resj)ectively, are, but about a cable and a-half wide, 
 " through which the tide runs about nine knots an hour, creating whirls 
 " aud eddies, rendering it unsafe for large steamers to enter or leave port 
 " at nigiit, or at certain stages of the tide, leaving out aU interruption 
 " by fogs and thick weathei-, which occur more frequently inside than 
 " out." 
 
 '•At English Bay, at a place marked on the chart as Government 
 " reserve, is a good anchorage, with every facility to construct a break- 
 " water and wharves, and by erecting a light-house on Passage 
 " Island, one on East Point, one on Twin Point and another on 
 " Discovery Island, the largest ships might be conducted thither in 
 "safety; but there are three months in the year, viz.: from part of 
 *' August to part of November, when this coast is subject to dense fogs, 
 " rendering it unsafe, if not utterly impossible, to navigate Haro Strait 
 " and the Gulf of Georgia with large steamers, such as the Pioyal Mail, 
 " Cunard and Pacific Mail Co.'s ships." 
 
 " This will, I thmk, be conceded by all who know anythmg about 
 " such ships and the straits in question, where the tide runs from four 
 " to six knots per hour, with boiling rij^s and overfalls, narrow channels 
 " and outlying reefs. * '■' '■•■ The fogs are so dense here 
 
 " that land cannot be seen one hundred yards oil'." 
 
 From the same point on the Frazer, near Sumass, a railway can be 
 built without much trouble and at little cost, through a flat region, to a
 
 33 
 
 point on Paget Sound kuou-n as "Holme's Harboiu-." The length of 
 this line •would be about GG miles. It would cost very much less than 
 that portion of the Canadian road terminating at Coal Harbour, and the 
 terminus would be at a magnificent harbour within easy distance of Cape 
 Flattery, say 85 miles. The navigation is unparalleled, being perfectly 
 free from danger, and ships can reach this point without towage. This 
 harbour is situated under the lee of Whidby Island, U. S. Territory, and 
 the intention is to cut a canal two miles in length across the neck of land 
 separating this port from the waters of Admiralty Inlet. The citizens of 
 the United States are quite alive to the importance of the matter, and 
 regard this place as the natural outlet of Canadian Pacific trafl&c, viei the 
 Frazer Eiver. And they are perfectly right. Freight will follow the 
 most economical route. From Sumass to Cape Flattery, via Holme's 
 Harbour, the distance will be 151 miles. Between the same points, via 
 the Burrard route, the distance is 190 mUes. In the former case, rai 
 freights will be lower than on the expensive road to Coal Harbour, while 
 rates of insurance, towage and pilotage will be very much less than on 
 Canadian waters. The fact is undeniable, dispute it who may. Mr. 
 Marcus Smith has already pointed it out in his Report of 1878. 
 
 But if further testimony be desirable, we have but to glance over 
 Mr. S. Fleming's Report of April, 1880, wherein, at page 146, Major- 
 General Moody, formerly Commander of the Royal Engineers in British 
 Columbia, gives his. He is a strong partizan of the Frazer River line, 
 and in a lengthy paper upon the railway question shows his clear 
 perception of the inevitable tendency British and American commercial 
 relations will have to co-mingle, and trade to gravitate towards the most 
 favourable outlet. 
 
 " One must keep in mind that if Route III did not exist, the 
 " material interests, present and future, of this valuable south portion of 
 " British Columbia, from the seaboard to the Rocky Mountain range, 
 " would gravitate inevitably to the foreign branch lines of the United 
 " States' North Pacific Railway; such branches coming up from south 
 " to different points along the frontier, east and west of Cascade Range." 
 
 " The coast branch up from the future ffrcat and important port of 
 " 'Holme's Harbour,' (U.S.,) in the Straits of Georgia, to Semiahmoo 
 " Port (U.S.,) 45 to 50 miles, will reach to about 15 miles from New 
 " \Yestminstcr, and, as a matter of course, in the progressive inter- 
 " change of trade and communications between the two nations, will 
 *' extend to New Westminster. 
 
 3
 
 34 
 
 " Another bmncli will also probably reach a jmitt higher up tU 
 " Frazcr, nearer Hope." 
 
 His argument, it must be borne in minfl, is to show the advantage 
 of the Frazer Eiver line. Were no such road ever to come into operation, 
 British American commercial relations would be more tightly banded 
 togctlior, and despite the " great strain on the sense of duty," the mixed 
 population (however loyal) would go over to the enemy. He adds : — 
 
 " Any results as above would not only be effectually counteracted 
 " by line Route III., but, as before stated, additional i/ain ina>j he looked 
 " for from over the border.'' 
 
 In any case, line or no lino, the Americans will run a branch of 
 the " North Pacific " up to the frontier. Such is his deduction. 
 
 The i3vobability is that the " Cauailian Pacific,' if ever built on the 
 Frazer, will never go beyond Sumass, for the reasons just given. The 
 "Grand Trunk" is similarly situated; at both ends long lengths of the line 
 run upon United States soil, and for this deplorable condition of affaii's we 
 must blame the idiots who were intrusted with a duty utterly beyond 
 their limited powers. As a matter of fact, every United States citizen 
 who visits British Columbia, sees the country and investigates the rail- 
 way question, goes home with the idea firmly impressed upon his mind, 
 either that Canadians have too much money, or that their rulers are, to 
 put it mildly, greatly in advance of the age. Tiiey laugh to scorn the 
 idea of a " canon railway." 
 
 At present the construction of the Pacific Eailwaj' Western Section 
 is altogether premature. It should, and probably will, when Ontario 
 and the Eastern Provinces wake up to a true conception of the gigantic 
 fraud being perpetrated upon them, be deferred indefinitely. In any 
 case, not a sod should be turned upon the western slope of the Eocky 
 Mountains until the prairie section shall have reached the eastern con- 
 fines of the Pacific Province. Until then, other works of more vital 
 importance to the Province than the gigantic and expensive toy the 
 British Columbians have been taught to hanker after, should be entered 
 upon with as much liberality as may be commensurate with the length 
 of Canada's purse strings. Every nerve should be strained to preserve 
 amicable relations with the Pacific Province, but. to this end : not a 
 cent, beyond what strict justice to the older Provinces dictates, should 
 be abstracted from the pockets pf the people.
 
 35 
 
 A careful perusal of the foregoing pages must convince the most 
 sceptical reader that the truth, and nothing hut the truth, has been the 
 writer's aim throughout. The battle of the routes has been waged 
 at such odds, so many tongues have been tied, so many valuable 
 reports supppressed, that the public has not hitherto been in a • 
 position to form any opinion as to their respective merits. No sane 
 reader can entertain further doubt with regard to the preponderating 
 merits (climatic and agricultural) of the country between Lac La Biche 
 and the Pine Eiver Pass, over that of the region west of Edmonton, upon 
 the southern line. The best authorities have been appealed to, and they 
 have spoken. With regard to that part of the southern line between 
 Livingston and Edmonton, the following extracts from Siu'veyors' Reports 
 (already given by a previous writer upon the same subject) will serve to 
 convey the truth : — ^Those extracts are taken from the reports of the 
 Department of the Literior. 
 
 " To Fishing Lake (long. 103^) a distance of 19 miles. The soil 
 " throughout is good sandy loam, and most of the timber of useful 
 " dimensions." 
 
 " To Big Quill Lake (long. lO^i) a distance of 32 miles. Well 
 " supplied with wood and water, having a soil sandy loam of fair quahty, 
 " lying between Quill Lake and the Touchwood Hills. The streams 
 " running into Quill Lake are fresh, whereas the lakes are strongly 
 " alkaline." 
 
 Turning northward for 20 miles, to a point beyond the railway, the 
 surveyor's line is reported thus : — 
 
 " The first six miles are on the sandy alkaline strip between Big 
 " and Little Quill Lake. Some fair sized timber is found here, but the 
 " soil is poor ; and continues so through a more open country, until 
 " within 3 miles of the C. P. K. line, when we encounter rising ground, 
 " densely wooded, with large poplar and numerous ponds." 
 
 Turning westward on the 10th base, the survey proceeded at an 
 average distance of about ten miles from the railway for a stretch of 180 
 miles. The Report of 1877, says of that hne : — 
 
 " The wooded and pond-country continues for about 27 miles, when 
 " the country becomes more open and inviting ; and continues so to the 
 " 40th mile, when we gradually descend into an almost barren, rolling, 
 " alkaline, sandy plain. * * * Por about 21 miles the 
 
 " line runs through the same sandy, rolling plain. On the 13th mile 
 " we crossed the Canadian Pacific Railway line, where it deflects to the 
 " north, 2 miles south of an alkaline lake."
 
 36 
 
 The Report of 1878 continues to review the same survey line from 
 
 the close of the above. It says : — 
 
 " I experienced great difficulty in making progress (for 108 miles) 
 " on the 10th base, owing to the want of wood and water, the country 
 " along that line being almost destitute of both. On one section of it 
 " water liad to be carried for the party, and wood for posts and fuel, in 
 " our carts, for a distance of 32 miles. The soil on the part surveyed 
 " of this lino (108 miles), with the exception of some few miles in the 
 " Eagle Hills, is of a poor nature, being light and sandy, and in most 
 " cases alkaline. In fact, none of the country between the lOGth meri- 
 " dian and the point at which I turned northward (an interval of over 
 " one hundred miles), is of any use for agricultural purposes." 
 
 Turning northward at the end of the line just reviewed, the sur- 
 veyor describes the country traversed (for 30 miles) thus : — 
 
 " Of a better nature than on the 10th base ; for though the soil is 
 " light, it is well watered, and the pasturage is excellent. It is, how- 
 " ever, destitute of wood." 
 
 From Battleford to the 110th meridian, the line (75 miles in length) 
 is reported thus ; — 
 
 " The soil, generally, is exceedingly poor ; and although improving 
 " a little in the immediate vicinity of Battleford, is even there very hght 
 " and sandy. '■' * * From the Meridian Ranges 18 and 
 
 " 19 to the 110th Meridian, the country is decidedly more attractive. 
 " For the first 30 miles there is a scarcity of wood, but water abounds. 
 " Indeed as a rule this was the only country (in a course of over 800 
 " miles) passed over, in which the water met with was not more or less 
 " alkaline. * * * From the exceeding richness of its 
 
 *' grasses, and the special fitness of the kinds produced, I am led to 
 " believe that it (a tract of 30 miles wide near the 110th meridian) 
 " excels as a grazing country, anything I have seen in Manitoba or the 
 " North-AYest Territories." 
 
 " In summary of the foregoing and of other evidence on the subject, 
 *' it may be concluded that for 300 miles across the plains the adopted 
 " route, while presenting exceptions here and there, traverses a region 
 " whose soils and other circumstances may be said in general to be un- 
 " suited for agricultural settlement." 
 
 Mr. J\I. Aldous, of the western special survey, says, of that portion 
 of the country between Fort Pitt and Edmonton, at page 41, part 11., 
 (1879), Report of the Department of the Interior : — 
 
 " In the whole distance surveyed between the 110th and 114tii 
 " meridians, we have not passed over a single mile of what I deem
 
 37 
 
 " worthless land. * * * The streams contain good clear 
 " water, and but few of the lakes or ponds are alkaline." 
 
 At page 45 of the same Report, Mr. A. P. Patrick, D. L. S., tluis 
 speaks of the country south from Battleford : — 
 
 " I left Battleford for the Forks of the Eed Doer and South Sas- 
 " katchewan Rivers on the Gth August, 1878. Tlie country passed over 
 " for the first thirty miles may be said to be fit for settlement, thoiigh 
 '• the soil is light and wood scarce. From this point to the Forks ( 138 
 " miles) the soil is fair but dry, and in my opinion unfit for farming, no 
 " wood, and water only to he found at great distances." 
 
 Mr. H. MacLeod, the Engineer who has been in charge of the Rail- 
 way Surveys upon the prairie section, estimates the proportion of poor 
 soil between Winnipeg and liake St. Ann, to be nearly one-half. Vide 
 Report of 1877. 
 
 With the exception then of the country between the Meridians of 
 Fort Pitt and Lake St. Ann- (225 miles) the region traversed by the now 
 located Canadian Pacific Railway west from Livingstone, is of but a 
 medium character, and very much of it quite open or treeless. 
 
 On the other hand, by the Northern or Pine Pass line, branching 
 northwestward from Livingston via Fort a la Corne towards the Beaver 
 River country and Lac la Biche, (some 470 miles) the country is nearly 
 all fit for settlement. {Vide Surveyor-Gonerars, Mr. Macoun's, Mr. 
 Smith's, and W. F. King's reports.) 
 
 It may be as well to remind the reader that the above opinions 
 were expressed by the writer several years ago. {Vide " Canada on the 
 Pacific.) 
 
 It must strike every inteUigent observer that, without actual sur- 
 veys beyond the explorations in a general way whicli have been made 
 of late years throughout the North -West, no very reliable estimates, of 
 the quantity of arable land available for settlement can be expcct«d. 
 
 In 1872, Mr. Macoun accompanied the writer through a portion of 
 the Peace River country. In 1875, Messrs. Selwyn and Macoun again 
 saw a portion of the same region ; and in 1879, Doctor Dawson and his 
 assistant had opportunities of examining very much more of its southern 
 portion than any previous explorer. The last named gentleman is, 
 therefore for that reason alone, if for no other, in a better position
 
 38 
 
 than any one else to make statements as to the soil, chmate, and avail- 
 able areas of that beautiful country. 
 
 But a hasty journey through an Indian country, under the unavoid- 
 abje difticultics (trifling, no doubt, but harassing withal) which constantly 
 beset the traveller, cannot be regarded as the basis of dogmatical asser- 
 tions as to the areas, arable or non-arable, available for settlement. 
 It may be permitted to a traveller, under such circiimstances, to hazard 
 an opinion, a guess, but such statements should be accepted by the 
 public, cum grano salis. 
 
 Mr. Dawson is, however, very guarded in his statements, takes care 
 to impress upon his readers the generality of his views, and abstains 
 from magisterial assertion. 
 
 Mr. Macouu, ou the other hand, an ardent admirer of nature and a 
 zealous botanist, has allowed himself a latitude of expression with regard 
 to areas suitable for agriculture in the North-West, which, to say the 
 least, can only be regarded as ideal. 
 
 In Mr. S. Fleming's Eeport for 1877, at page 336, Mr. Macoun has 
 made a classification of the lands in the Canadian North- West. Taking 
 for example,. of the five acres described, that of the Peace Paver country, 
 it will be sesn that he estimates the available quantity of arable land to 
 be sixteen millions acres. 
 
 It may be interesting to know by what process he arrived at the 
 above result. Keferring to the Geological Pieport of 1875-76, it appears 
 he descended the Peace Piiver by canoe to Fort St. -John, thence ascended 
 the northern slopes of the river valley, walked northward a distance of 
 Dine miles, and returned over the same trail to his starting point. 
 
 From Fort St. John he descended by raft or canoe to Dunvegan. 
 thence b}"^ canoe to Fort Chippewyan and Athabasca. He landed only to 
 Ba«np, and also made botanical examinations at Battle River, Yermilhon 
 and Little Pted River. Upon two or three occasions he penetrated the 
 country to a distance of half a mile from the Peace River. From 
 Athabasca the Hudson Bay Company forwarded him via Portage La 
 Loche (Methy Portage), Isle a la Crosse and Green Lake, to Carlton. 
 The latter portion of his journey was also by water, with the excei)tion 
 of some 14:0 miles between Green Lake and Carlton. 
 
 His journey from Bunvegaa to Carlton (1,100 miles) occupied two
 
 39 
 
 months. All his movements were hurried, owing to lack of provisions 
 while descending the placid Peace River, and on the Isle a la Crosse 
 route, from the fact that he was a passenger in the Hudson Bay boats. 
 {Vide imges 156 to 165 of his report.) 
 
 Between Dunvegan and Fort Chippewyan the Peace River flows at 
 the bottom of a valley which decreases in depth, from 700 feet at the 
 former, to 50 feet and less at the latter place. It was consequently 
 impossible to S3e anything of the surrounding country from a canoe. 
 
 How then, in the name of common sense, can he justify his sweep- 
 ing assertion that there are sixteen millions acres of arable land within 
 the section of country drained by the Peace River, east of the Rocky 
 Mountains 1 
 
 Does he think that British capitalists will swallow such an un- 
 founded statement ? 
 
 To take a map and measure off certain unknown and unseen areas 
 finished this remarkably easy method of "doing" the country. 
 
 That there are vast areas suitable for settlement there is every 
 reason to beheve, but there is no justification for deliberately misleading 
 the public with an array of imaginary figiures. Facts, not fancies, are 
 wanted. 
 
 Similar wild estimates have, i^erhaps, been made m other parts of 
 the North- West, and the writer is not alone in decrying such a wholesale 
 method of survey, for, in the early part of 1879, when he brought the 
 impropriety and absurdity of jumpmg areas in this manner, under the 
 notice of the Minister of Railways, and of the Chief Engineer, Mr 
 Fleming, the latter quite concurred. 
 
 Doctor Dawson's exammation of the southern portion of the Peac« 
 Eiver country diu-ing the season of 1879 has however removed in greal 
 measure, any doubts as to its value and extent. 
 
 In 1872, the writer hazarded the opinion (see " Canada on the 
 Pacific ") that, in the southern Peace River country there would pmballtf 
 be found available for settlement, agricultural land equal in extent to tha 
 original Province of Manitoba. This view has been more than justified 
 by Doctor Dawson. 
 
 In the last report issued, Mr. Macoun exhibits a map " indicating 
 the limits within which good lands are known to exist, west of the 101st 
 meridian."
 
 40 
 
 On the western portion of that map there is a tract or triangular 
 area of about 10,000 square miles, shown as prairie and good land, 
 which is well known to be forest and worthless for agriculture, i.e., that 
 piece of country extending fi-om Kocky Mountain House northward to 
 the Eiver Pembina, and thence west and north to the Rocky Mountains. 
 The Southern (Burrard Inlet) line is projected through this worthless 
 country, which Mr. Macoun speaks of in his Report of 1877, page 328, 
 as " seeminghj the worst jmrt of the swampy region near the Rocky Moun- 
 tains." 
 
 Mr. Macoun's instructions were : To explore 60,000 square miles 
 of the country west of Livingston and north of the 51st parallel of 
 latitude. 
 
 He was probably five mouths in the field. Admitting that he 
 ti'avelled continuously during the whole of that period, at the average 
 rate of 20 miles per day and that he was able to determine the quality of 
 the soil for two miles on each side of his track as he went along, he 
 would be in a position to report upon 12,000 square miles = 7,680,000 
 acres. He, however, affirms that there are 134,000,000 acres of good 
 land between Manitoba and the Eocky Mountains, exclusive of the Peace 
 River country. 
 
 How does he know this ? He did not see one-twentieth part of 
 this enormous area. His map is divided into sections represented by 
 the parallelograms contained between adjacent parallels and merichans. 
 He rode across (directly or diagonally) some 23 of those sections. Each 
 of these sections represents an area equal to two counties of the Pro- 
 vince of Ontario. Is it reasonable to believe that a hasty ride across an 
 Ontario county would enable anyone to state its agricultural value ? 
 
 Mr. Macoun states that much of the prau-ie country south of the 
 52nd parallel is better than has been reported by Palliser's expedition. 
 It may be interesting to quote fi"om M. Bom'geau's botanical report to 
 Sir William Hooker in 1858. This was a French gentleman of high 
 scientific attainments, who passed two or three consecutive yiiars in the- 
 Saskatchewan and prairie country of the Canadian North-West. 
 
 Page 246, Capt. Palliser's Expedition : "On the prairies. . . . 
 " As the counti-y towards the south merges more into open prairie, the 
 " clumps of young poplars are found only nestling on northern exposiires."' 
 " The last outliers of the woods to the south generally consist of ' islands ' as
 
 41 
 
 " they are called, which make a show fiom a distance, but when 
 " approached are found to consist of a small species of willow." 
 
 " The true arid district, which occupies much of the country rdong 
 " the South Saskatchewan, and reaches as far north as latitude 52% has, 
 " even early in the season, a dry, parched look. In the northern district 
 " the accumulation of /;»7?n/.s and the distribution of the pleistocene deposits 
 " has given rise to a variety in the nature of the soil ; but to the south the 
 " cretaceous and tertiary strata almost everywhere come to the surface, 
 " so that the stiff clay, highly impregnated with sulphates, bakes under 
 " the influence of the clear sun of early spring, into a hard and cracked 
 " surface, that resists the germination of seeds. This must be the 
 " principal reason for the and plains ranging to such a high latitude, as 
 " there is quite a sufficient quantity of moisture in the atmosphere 
 " during the summer months, to support a more vigorous vegetation, as 
 " is shown as far south as latitude 49° 30' N. when at the Cypress Hills, 
 " south sides of deep river valleys, and other expanses sheltered from the 
 " sun's rays until he acquires a considerable altitude, are found to bo 
 " covered with pines, spruce firs, poplars, and abundant varieties of the 
 " vegetation found further to the north." 
 
 *••■ In the arid plains, the plants, most evidently different from those 
 " regions to the north, are small opimtias, also the sage of the Americans." 
 
 " Much of the arid country is occupied by tracts of loose sand, 
 " which is constantly on the move before the prevailmg winds." 
 
 " This district, although there are fertile spots throughout its extent 
 " can never be of much advantage to us as a possession." 
 
 " Along the base of the Eccky Mountains there is much fine land, 
 " with very rich pasturage." 
 
 Mr. Bourgeau, a most able botanist, passed a very much longer 
 period in the North-West than Mr. Macoun, but a glance at his report 
 will show that he never went so far as to classify areas. He quite 
 admits the existence of vast tracts of excellent land south of the North 
 Saskatchewan. He speaks highly of the agricultural capabilities of the 
 country between Carlton and Edmonton, mentions the navigability of 
 the two Saskatchewans and their largest tributaries, and in line, gives a 
 report which, from an economic and scientific point of view, would be 
 difficult to subvert. 
 
 It is, however, quite apparent that the botanical testimony clashes 
 in some important particulars. The public may judge from the state- 
 ments made, which of the two is better entitled to credence. 
 
 The brown line dra-vsn from Cumberland House to lesser Slave Lake,
 
 42 
 
 upon Mr. .Alacoun's map, paije 2-45 of report, sliows the northern limit 
 of the area within which good land abounds. 
 
 Does he retract his statements of 1875, regarding the lower Atha- 
 basca? I'^iWf? Geological Report 187o-7G, page 170. 
 
 In Appendix 14, Mr. Macoun, speaking ot the aridity characteristic 
 jef large tracts of country north of the 49tli parallel, and south of 
 tne nortn baskatchewan, refers to the cretaceous clays as tlie cause. He 
 also mentions that the breaking up of the soil assists growth, besides 
 some other well-known facts. 
 
 This is quite true, but he should have mentioned that those facts and 
 theories have been long well-known. He has culled his information from 
 Doctor Dawson's report in connection with the Boundary Commission, 
 and from other well-known works published some years ago. 
 
 This cretaceous formation, which Mr. Macoun admits to be the 
 cause of sterility, is fully discussed in Doctor Dawson's Eeport of 1875. 
 
 " 347. Fort Pierre Groiipe. This group appears to occupy a very 
 " great extent of country in the region north of the 49th parallel." 
 
 * -A- * 
 
 " 352. Dr. Hayden writes : ' This formation is the most important 
 " one in the cretaceous system of the North- West.' " * * * 
 
 " Wherever this deposit prevails, it renders the country more com- 
 " pletely sterile than any other geological formation I have seen in the 
 " Nortli-West." 
 
 " The contrast between the country resting on this formation and 
 " that based on the Lignite Tertiary, is very striking, and where the 
 " dry uplands of the Tertiary would seem, at first, less favourable than 
 " the low-lying plains of No. 4 ; the former can support a short thick 
 " growth of nutritious grasses, where the latter has the character above 
 ** described." 
 
 Doctor Dawson defines the boundaries of the cretaceous subdivision 
 No. 4, within British territory, at page 149 of his Eeport in connection 
 with the Boundary Commission, and further on supplies abundance of 
 information in regard to water supply, the climate, tree-growth and 
 areas fit for settlement in the North- West. Mr. Macoun has dipped into 
 all this, hides the fact, and i)resents his borrowed knowledge to the 
 public as his own. This is not fan.-, either to the authors quoted or to 
 the public, and will but serve to throw discredit upon himself.
 
 43 
 
 Since writing the above, Mr. Macoun has gone forth in search of 
 more acres. Upon this occasion his mission is to the south-west. It 
 will be interesting to hear the result of this year's expedition. It cannot, 
 however, be doubted that the Dominion will be further enriched by many 
 more millions of acres. It may be taken for granted that another scien- 
 tific adjustment of the map will be in order, and that much of the arid, 
 cactus region north of the boundary line will be forever obliterated to 
 make room for countless prospective homesteads. Plethoric capitalists 
 will look forward with anxiety for the next Report. 
 
 In the summer of 1871 the first engineering parties from Ottawa 
 were sent out, east and west, north and south. The writer accompanied 
 the first praii'ie expedition under Mr. F. Moberly, and travelled from 
 Fort Garry to Edmonton, Eocky Mountain House, the Kootenay plains, 
 near Howe's Pass, back to Edmonton, thence to Jasper House, and Imck 
 to Ottawa, during the period between August, 1871, and March, 1872. 
 
 In August, 1872, Mr. S. Fleming started fi-om Fort Garry, Red 
 River, with the avowed purpose of going over the line of route examined 
 in the preceding year, to Victoria, B. C. The writer's services, as one of 
 the members of the expedition of 1871, were called for to guide the 
 Chief Engineer across the prairie section. The proceedings of the 
 Chief Engineer's party upon that occasion have been duly chronicled in 
 " Ocean to Ocean," a publication which, as its reverend writer remarks 
 incidentally, purports to be " a truthful narrative." 
 
 At page 3 of the Report of the Engineer-in-Chief, dated 8th April, 
 1880, Mr. Fleming says : — " The first examination under my direction 
 *' was made in 1872, when I passed over the line from Lake Superior to 
 *' the Pacific." This sentence is scarcely correct, the last postulatf 
 being positively misleading. Mr. Fleming's expedition, consisting of 
 himself, a clergyman, a doctor, Mr. Fleming's son, Mr. Macoun and the 
 writer, travelled at the rate of 40 miles per day, between Fort Garry and 
 Edmonton, over one of the many cart trails which intersect the country, 
 but, far from following the then proposed, and now located, railway line, 
 saw actually nothing of it, being at times from 70 to 100 miles to the north 
 or south, according to the sinuosities of the trail. The expctlition was, 
 in fact, to all intents and purposes, under the control of the Reverend
 
 44 
 
 Geo. Grant, who, from the very beginning, made strenuous efforts to 
 " run " the whole affair, as fast as possible, being, as he said himself, 
 excessively anxious to rejoin his parishioners at Halifax, by the 15th 
 November following. Accordingly, the examination of the prairie section 
 was to this end sacrificed. 
 
 At Edmonton, the party was broken up, the botanist and writer 
 going towards .the Peace Kiver,the others continuing on via the Hudson 
 Bay trail to Jasper House, and ultimately to Victoria, which they reached 
 early in the autumn. For particulars of what they did and saw, during 
 that memorable journey, the reader must refer to the volume alluded to, 
 " Ocean to Ocean." The writer of this paper, after passing the Rocky 
 Mountains, by the Peace River Pass, and sending the botanist home via 
 the Fraser River, finally crossed British Columbia, on snowshoes from 
 Fort McLeod to the Skeeila and Naas Rivers, and reached the coast at 
 Fort Simpson in January, '73. 
 
 During the journey from Edmonton to McLeod Lake, via the Peace 
 River country, the writer being, from his experience of the country 
 between Edmonton and Jasper House in the previous year, well i^ualified 
 to institute comparisons, saw the probable advantages of the Peace 
 River route, or, more correctly speaking, of the Piiir Jiiverxoute, over 
 the southern line, as means of access to Bute Inlet, that place being 
 then one of the termini most highly thought of. He accordingly reported 
 in favour of the Pine River route, in preference to that of the Peace 
 River, a proposition which created some disgust, and caused much 
 obloquy to be cast upon his judgment. 
 
 It has since been admitted by some of Mr. Fleming's engineers, who 
 are still staunch adherents to the "Yellow Head" route, that, had Bute 
 Inlet been finally adopted as the western terminus, the Pme Pass would 
 have offered the best route to it. 
 
 It has however, required many years to fully realize this, but the 
 final rejection of Bute Inlet a couple of years ?,go, paved the way for the 
 admission. 
 
 Until 1875, the writer favoured Bute Inlet as a terminus, but, 
 having since seen it, and the line leading to it for at least 150 miles, he 
 has been gradually convinced of its unsuitableness, especially within the 
 last 3'ear. In 1S74, the writer was commissioned by the Government to 
 examine the Cascade Range from sea level to summit, between the
 
 45 
 
 parallels of 52' and 5-i' north latitude. The sloop ''Triumph" of the 
 Geological Survey was, for this purpose, placed at his disposal, an 
 examination of the various inlets made, and the result duly reported to 
 the Chief Engineer. (Vide Report of 1877, page 137.) 
 
 This report, before its incorporation with Mr. Fleming's general 
 report was, however strangely mutilated, and the portion treating of the 
 coast from Douglas Channel southward to Queen Charlotte Sound, 
 entirely suppressed. 
 
 This has lately proved to he a very unfortunate circumstance, as the 
 matter of the suppressed portion entirely escaped the writer's memory 
 until last winter, when an examination of Mr. Keefer's work on the 
 Skeena between Fort Simpson and Kitsumkallum River led to a retrospect 
 of the work of 1874. 
 
 Upon referring to the partially suppressed report of 1871, the writer 
 found, at page 31 of his original MSS., the following passage : — 
 
 "It is needless to lengthen this report by more than a passing 
 " allusion to the Kitimat Inlet, a huge water-filled indentation like the 
 " others of ttie coast ; and, as there appears to be no passage from it to 
 " the interior plateau, further reference to it here woiUd be superlluou.s.''* 
 
 But appended to this report, and marked for interpolation after the 
 last passage, appeared the following remark : — 
 
 " At the north-east corner of this arm of the sea, there is a long 
 " and narrow bay, which, were it dredged, would form an excellent 
 " harbour. There is ample room for wharfage, but to deepen tliis bay, 
 " the Kitimat, or at least one of its outlets, would require to be diverted 
 " to the west side of the Inlet. A micronietrical survey has been made 
 " by Mr. Richardson, during my absence in the interior while searching 
 " for passes. Had I been successful in this respect, soundings of the 
 " upper end of the Inlet v/ould have been taken, and, in fact, a hydro- 
 " graphical examination would have been made. As an outlet from the 
 " upper Skeena, through the Cascades, the Kitimat Valley, apparently, 
 " offers facilities unparalleled elsewhere on the coast" 
 
 The report was mutilated in four other places besides. The ^^•l•iter 
 objected, but was told that the document was already too lengthy. 
 
 In the year 1877, l\fr. H. J. Gamble was sent by Mr. Fleming to 
 examine the Skeena and Wotsonqua Valleys, in connection with a Imo 
 from Port Simpson to the interior. "When at Kitsumkallum river, be 
 
 Nqtk.— By " interior plateau " was meant the lake rcijiim iiniiioili.ituly east from tlic Valloy of tlio 
 Kitimat and behind the "Casettdes." The writer's instruolioiis were to search for imimm leadinc 
 «lirectty from the sea to this jjlateau. A route hy tlie Skeena river was not tlien tlioiiglit of. ( \'i(t« 
 page 13S, S. Fleming's report of lb77.)
 
 *6 
 
 ascended the stream issuing from Lake Killoosali, and saw a portion o 
 the fine Valley of the Kitimat. This has mi been referred to in Mr. 
 Gamble's Rcijort. — [At page 38, Appendix C, lleport 1878.] Neither ha» 
 any allusion to the Kitimat been made by Mr. Fleming's engineers, until 
 last March, when Mr. Fleming received the following letter from the 
 writer : — 
 
 " Ottawa, 9th March, 1880. 
 
 " Sandfonl Flemmr/, Esq., 
 
 *' Enijineer-iii-Chief, Canadicui Pacific Bailway. 
 
 " Sir, — Having in view Mr. Keefcr's recent survey from the head of 
 ' Wark Canal, up the Skeena, through the Cascade Mountains, with the 
 ' object of making rail communication between the Forks of Skeena and 
 ' Port Simpson, it has occurred to me to make the following suggestions, 
 ' which, although rather late in the season, may prove interesting : — 
 
 " An inspection of Mr. Keefer's plan shows, as indeed might have 
 ' been expected, more than fifty miles of extremely difficult location, 
 ' through the very core of the coast range, which added to the distance 
 ' from the Head of Wark Canal to Port Simpson, aggregates at least 
 ' one hundred miles of the most expensive railway work, between the 
 ' Kitsumkallum River and the suggested terminal point. Port Simpson." 
 
 " Now, I think it is possible to avoid this difficulty, simply by 
 ' diverging from some point on the Skeena below Ivitsellasse Canon, 
 ' southward towards Lake Killoosah, and thence following the wide, 
 
 • open valley of the Kitimat to the Head of Douglas Channel, where I 
 ' have no doubt Avhatever that it is possible, at an expense very much 
 ' less than the difference in cost of construction between the Lower 
 ' Skeena and Port Simpson route, and that now suggested, to form a 
 ' good terminal harbour." 
 
 *' In 1874, I examined the Kitimat VaHey, for the purj^ose of finding 
 ' an outlet in that quarter from the interior plateau. I was unsuccess- 
 ' ful, although I pointed out the favourable features of this valley. In 
 ' my report (see your own report for 1877), I gave a description of the 
 ' Douglas Channel, but by some mischance that portion was omitted." 
 
 " In view of this circumstance, I deem it not out of place to again 
 ' bring before you the above facts, which, it must be confessed, were 
 ' not very clearly put forward in my report of 1874." 
 
 " I would add that the valley of the Kitimat is one of the most 
 ' extensive on the coast, and I am confident that the summit between 
 ' the Kitimat and the Skeena does not exceed 1,000 feet above sea level. 
 ' Moreover, by this route, the formidable ' Cascades ' will be avoided 
 ' altogether, and the distance between the Forks of Skeena and the sea 
 
 * shortened at least 50 miles."
 
 47 
 
 " At the north-east corner of the Inlet, there is a natural liarbour 
 " two miles in length, perfectly sheltered, but shallow. This could be 
 " easily clreclged, were the main volume of the Kitimat diverted to the 
 " west side of the canal. The head of the canal is, of course, oulv a 
 " roadstead, but I think there is tolerably fair anchorage, and the otiing 
 " can be reached by a magnificent channel and Ncpcan Sound." 
 
 " For steamships this harbour is as easily accessible as any on the 
 " coast. It seems to me that a proper hydrographical survey should be 
 " made, as also a survey from the head of the Inlet to some point on 
 " the Skeena near Kitsumkallum Eivcr, and should this harbour question 
 " be solved successfully, this route may prove even shorter than any yet 
 " suggested.'' 
 
 " I am, sir, yours, etc., 
 
 (Signed), C. HOKETZKY. 
 
 Mr. Fleming acknowledged the receipt of the foregoing as follows : 
 
 " Ottawa, 10th March. 1880. 
 " My Dear Sir, — I find, in looking over Mr. Keefer's Eeport, now 
 "in type, he refers to the suggestion you made yesterday. In the 
 " second last paragraph of his Eeport he mentions the Valley of the 
 " Lakels (Killoosah) as cfi'ering easy access to Gardner Inlet. Mr. 
 " Keefer informs me that Mr. Cambie went to the lake near the summit 
 " in the year, 1877, and looked down the Kitimat Valley. I think I 
 " remember he discussed the matter with me at the time, but, for some 
 " reason or other, it went no further. I have just seen Mr. Keefer and 
 " he confirms all ycu say about the character of the Valley. 
 
 " Yours, etc., 
 
 (Signed), " S. FLEMING." 
 
 Mr. Keefer neither saw the valley of the Kitimat nor the Douglas 
 Channel, but he confirms all the writer says about its character, and add.s 
 that there will be no difficulty in carrying a Ime by it to the head of 
 Gardner Canal. .He is mistaken ; it is a physical impossibility to 
 cari-y a line from the Kitimat to the head of Gardner Canal, or, in other 
 words, to reach the head of Gardner Canal from the head of the Kitimat 
 would involve 90 miles of the heaviest work along the roughest Canal on 
 the coast, an engineering feat no one would ever dream of attempting ; 
 but he may have^mistaken one inlet for the other. 
 
 It is certainly an odd circumstance that the finest valley, without 
 exception, upon the British Columbian sea-board, piercing tlie •' Cas- 
 cades," bas been overlooked witliout any assigned reason. There is not 
 tte shadow of a doubt as to the possibility of making an excellent ter-
 
 48 
 
 miual port at the head of the luthuat or Douglas Inlet. I consider that 
 tliere will be from 500 to GOO acres of water area available for shipping 
 in the north-east bay when dredged out. Wharves can be constructed 
 all round it, and it will then form a fine dock, perfectly sheltered from 
 every wind. Outside several square miles of water area can be made 
 available by stretching a floating breakwater across the Inlet wherever 
 suitable, and in the event of the water being too deep for anchorage, 
 anchor buoys can be disposed as desirable. A floating breakwater of 
 boiler plate, and in sections of any desired length, drawing three feet of 
 water, amply sufficient to form a perfect mill-pond to leeward in that 
 sheltered inlet, will not, exclusive of moorings, co.st more than $1.50,000. 
 
 There is no inlet on the coast which offers greater facilities for the 
 construction of wharves. The adjoining ground is certainly more con- 
 venient for the business of a large city than that around Port Simpson, 
 being perfectly level, with room for extension twenty miles back, if 
 necessary. 
 
 Owing to the fact of the upper harbour of Kitimat being completely 
 land locked, and also to the large volume of fresh water which the 
 easternmost mouth of the river Kitimat pours into it, there are times 
 during winter when ice forms. This, the Indians averred, was always 
 carried away by the tide. However that may be, the diversion of the 
 Kitimat to the west side of the inlet, and the dredging out of the shoals 
 withm, and at the narrow entrance of, the upper harbour, wiU certainly 
 obviate any inconvenience which might arise from that cause. 
 
 As regards the climate at the head of the Douglas Channel, it may 
 be said to differ but slightly, if at all, fi-om that of Port Simpson. The 
 Douglas Channel is straight and wide, its upper extremity within fifty 
 miles from "Whale and Wright Sounds, and being thus more subject to 
 the atmospheric influences of the Pacific Ocean than the long, tortuous 
 and dismal Fiords of "Gardner," "Dean" and " Bentinck," which 
 pierce the very core of the coast range, must necessarily be under 
 similar climatic conditions as the more northern Port Simi^son. 
 
 From careful enquiry, in 1874, the writer finds on referring to his 
 notes that the average snowfall in the valley of the lutimat rarely, if 
 ever, exceeds four feet. 
 
 The chmate of this northern coast has been much decried and 
 onfavom-ably compared with that of the southern portion of British
 
 49 
 
 Columbia. It is certainly more humid, but undoubtedly less subject to 
 fogs than the southern Georgian Sea, and the coast, if wet, is no worse 
 m that respect than those of Nova Scotia, the upper Atlantic States, and 
 Scotland. 
 
 The reader may, in this connection, derive some valuable information 
 from Captain Brundige's weather tables, showiug the climate of Port 
 Simpson, at pages 163 to 1G7 of Mr. S. Flemmg's last railway report. 
 
 In addition to the facilities afforded by the lower portion of the 
 Valley of the Kitimat for the site of a large city, the harbour and its 
 approaches are admirably situated for defence, and can, with the greatest 
 ease, be made completely safe from foreign attack. Beacon Hill, named 
 by the writer, 1,450 feet, in height, from which a photographic sketch of 
 the upper valley and harbour was taken, commands the latter as well as 
 the magnificent channel to the southward, besides being able to sweep 
 •the upper portion of the valley, in the event of any attempt at hostilities 
 from the Skeena quarter. The citadels of Quebec and Gibraltar sink 
 into insignificance when compared with this commanding and impreg- 
 nable position. So much cannot be said of Port Simpson, which would 
 be almost within range of Alaskan batteries in the event of war, and 
 is by no means so favourably situated for defence. 
 
 Illimitable water power is available for mills and factories through- 
 out the entire length of the Kitimat Valley, the Kitimat River and its 
 eastern tributary, the I^achaques, affording a constant supply. In fine, 
 as remarked before, there is no locality upon the whole British Colum- 
 bian Coast line, which combines so many natural advantages for th« 
 Western terminus of the Pacific Railway. 
 
 Clio Bay, a few miles below the Head of the Inlet, on the eastern 
 shore, has already been alluded to. There is fair anchorage there. 
 
 It has been stated that this Inlet is very readily accessible from the 
 offing by Nepean and Wright Sounds, and from Port Simpson. It is also 
 accessible by the Ogden Channel, a passage nearly mid- way between 
 Douglas Channel and Port Simpson. 
 
 At page 154, S. Fleming's Report, 1880, Captain J. C. Bruudigo 
 thus speaks of it : — " I consider there is not a better locaUty for ships 
 " to make the land on the whole coast than here." 
 
 Port Flemmg, at the upper end of the Grcnville Canal, adds another 
 to the Hst of the havens of refuge favourably situated for vessels up- 
 
 4
 
 50 
 
 proacbing Douglas Channel. Vide page 154, ^Iv. S. Fleming's Report^ 
 1880. 
 
 Speaking of the approaches to the coast, either at Port Simpson or 
 south of it, Captain Brunclige says, at page 159, Keport 1880 : — 
 
 " Ships coming from tlie south and west can make Cape St. James 
 " in safety, just as ships make Cape Clear, on entering Bristol, or other 
 " channels." 
 
 " As they sail up, they can enter Ogden, Eddy or Brown's Passages, 
 " either of which is superior to San Juan." 
 
 By " San Juan " he evidently means the passage from Fuca Straits 
 to Burrard Inlet. 
 
 As one possessed of a rel-y fair knowledge of the British Columbian 
 coast, and of other foreign coasts and harbours, the writer can readily 
 corroborate all Captain Brundige says, and unhesitatingly affirm that 
 the "Douglas" Channel, at the head of which is situated the 
 proposed terminal harbour for an Imperial and Canadian trans-conti- 
 nental railway, is as safely and as easily accessible from the Pacific 
 Ocean as many of the very best Pacific Coast harbours, and infinitely 
 more easy of approach than the harbours of Burrard Inlet. 
 
 To reach the " lutimat," either from the Nepean Sound or the 
 " Ogden " Passage, the towage for sailing ships would not exceed 60 or 
 90 miles in either case. 
 
 To reach the harbour of English Bay (Burrard Inlet), the same 
 towage is necessary, but the risks of navigation are greater. 
 
 An inspection of Captain Brundige's report shows that he examined 
 nearly every place of importance in the vicinity of Port Simpson but 
 the head of the Douglas Inlet, a circumstance which, taken in conjunc- 
 tion with the mutilation of the writer's report of 1874, Mr. Gamble's 
 silence on that subject in his Report of 1877, and the ignoring by the 
 Chief Engineer of the matter in recent reports, must appear singular. 
 
 It is, however, by no means improbable that the examination recom- 
 mended by the writer in his letter of the 9th ISIarch last to the Chief 
 Engineer may be, even at this late hour, in process ; if so, it is to be 
 hoped that the person entrusted with this work may not be amenable to 
 paltry considerations, and that he wiU report conscientiously. 
 
 The writer considered it his duty to address the Premier of Canada,
 
 51 
 
 briefly, upon the subject which has formed the gist of this paper. Accord- 
 ingly, Sir John Macdonald was written to on the 12th inst. (Mpv). 
 
 Numerous surveys and explorations have been carried out within 
 the last decade throughout all parts of the North- West. The writer has, 
 as must now be apparent, taken part in those very important operations 
 which have cost such enormous sums to the Dominion of Canada. It 
 appears that those examinations might have been made without the pi'o- 
 digious outlay involved, especially on the Pacific side ; it is not, 
 ' however, the writer's intention to discuss that matter. 
 
 During the season of 1879, a very large and expensive expedition 
 went into the Peace River country. The party consisted of Mr. H. J. 
 Cambie, Ih: MacLeod, the Ptev. D. M. Gordon, and Dr. Dawson, of tho 
 Geological Survey of Canada. The programme of their proceedings was ' 
 to enter from the Pacific side, descend the Peace Eiver, cross the Pine 
 River Pass, and examine the Peace River country. With a view of meet- 
 ing the Rev. Mr. Gordon on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, 
 another expeditionary party was dispatched from Winnipeg to meet liira 
 as he emerged from the fastnesses of the Athabasca region. 
 
 Their outfit from Fort St. James was, in Mr. Gamble's own words 
 (Vide page 42, Report 1880) :— 
 
 " Our party, for the exploration of the Peace River country, then 
 " consisted of six on the staff (Mr. Cambie was also accompanied by a 
 " Secretary), 14 packers, besides two men and 5 Indians, 27 in all, and 
 " our train consisted of 72 pack-mules, with 23 riding animals ; a total 
 " of 95 animals." 
 
 It would be very interesting to the public to know the result of this 
 grand expedition, but, as space will not permit us to follow each individual 
 member of this party in his peregrmations, it will suflioo for present 
 purposes, to know what the chief of the expedition did during the long 
 summer of 1879. 
 
 With the exception of Doctor Dawson, who crossed the Rocky 
 Mountains, by the Pine Pass, the whole party descended tho Peace 
 River from Fort McLeod to Dunvegan, by boat and raft. 
 
 Mr. Cambie thence rode on horseback to Smoky River, (45 miles), 
 from Smoky River to Sturgeon Lake, (41 miles), from Sturgeon Lake to 
 Little Smoky River, (30 miles), from Little Smoky River to Lesser Slave 
 Lake, (28 miles), from Lesser Slave to Peace River, (55 miles), from tho 
 crossing of Peace River along the left bank to Dunvegan, (50 miles).
 
 52 
 
 from Dunvegan to Fort St. John, (120 miles), and from Fort St. John to 
 Hudson Hope, (10 miles). 
 
 In all this distance but a small portion was seen of the route pro- 
 posed by the writer in 1872, i.e., in the distance, between Dunvegan and 
 Lesser Slave Lake going east. Mr. MacLeod performed th(J greater 
 part of the examination. 
 
 From Hudson Hope, Mr. Cambie travelled to Moberly Lake, and 
 thence to the Pine River (20 miles), up the Pine River (previously 
 examined and favourably reported upon by Mr. Hunter) (35 miles), and 
 from the Pine Pass Summit to Stewart Lake, (108 miles). Much of this 
 distance was over ground travelled by the writer in 1872, and the result 
 of this expedition has been (apart from the valuable information obtained 
 by Doctor Dawson, and the minute inspection of the engineering features 
 of the country south of the Peace River, by Mr. MacLeod) , but to confirm 
 the writer's views expressed in 1872. 
 
 In verification of this statement, I shall here quote some extracts 
 from a Memorandum by the writer to the Minister of Railways, dated, 
 " 20th January, 1879," at the request of the latter. 
 
 " In point of fact, the Peace River Pass is not so formidable as that, 
 " nor in any portion does it bear any resemblance to a canon, excepting 
 " between the head and foot of the Rocky Mountain canon, or portagQ, 
 " which is entirely beyond, and east of the main range, and is on a very 
 " much reduced scale, as compared with the steep, rocky slopes of the 
 " main range." 
 
 " In reality, the passage of the Peace River, through the Rocky 
 " Mountains, is an easier problem to solve than the continuation of a Line 
 *' immediately to the eastward, in its low trough 700 feet beneath the 
 " plateau, or in close proximity to the river along the adjacent heights, 
 " the last alternative, all but impracticable, on the line indicated in Mr. 
 *' Fleming's Report." 
 
 " Indeed, were it possible to carry that line at the high level of the 
 " plateau (1,700 or 1,800 feet above sea), there might be some reason 
 " for taking advantage of the Peace River Pass, were it advantageously 
 " situated with regard to western termini ; but, as any line through 
 " that pass must either descend to the low level of the Peace 
 " River, when east of the Rocky Mountains, and maintain that 
 '* level as far as the Smoky River, or must diverge from the eastern 
 " portal of the Pass southward, in order to avoid the prodigious valleys of 
 " the Whitefish, Pine, Mud, Echafaud and other streams, the objection 
 " to the Peace River Pass may be readily understood."
 
 53 
 
 '• The line in discussion is traced across the portage, from the head 
 " of the E,ocky Mountain Canon, and easterly along the Peace Eiver, to 
 " the Forks of the Smoky River." 
 
 " It is impossible to carry a line as projected across the portage 
 " without miles of tunnelling, for the simple reason that the lowest part 
 " of the ridge across which the portage trail is made, is 1,000 feet higher 
 " than the water level at Hudson's Hope, while to follow the semi-cir- 
 " cular course of the canon (25 miles in length), A\ill, in all probability, 
 " entail heavy works in rock, however, I do not question the practicabi- 
 " lity of the latter alternative along the right bank, but I am of the 
 " opinion, that from Hudson's Hope to the Smoky River, a line following 
 " the low level of the Peace River, will be objectionable, in consequence 
 " of unavoidably bad alignment, its length and heavy works occasionally, 
 " with frequency of bridge structures across the mouths of the southern 
 " tributaries and numerous dry ravines, not to mention the difficulty of 
 " gaining the high level again beyond the Smoky River." 
 
 " In all the distance h"om Hudson's Hope to the Smoky River, the 
 " Peace River Hows at the bottom of a trough, GOO to 800 feet, beneath 
 " the surrounding plateau. Alluvial fiats,, terraces of varying altitudes 
 " alternating with rocky exposures, clay and gravel slides occupy the 
 " slopes of this trough, which are intersected by numerous rivers, count- 
 " less creeks, and dry coulees, all of which debouch on the main stream 
 " through immense gorges, showing vertical sections as deep as that 
 " of the Peace River Valley itself." 
 
 " The immense ravines and river valleys above mentioned, place 
 " road construction along the heights in proximity to the river entirely 
 " out of the question." 
 
 " For the above reasons, I have always favoured a line from the 
 " Pine Pass, parallel to the Peace River, but thirty or more miles to the 
 " southward, where the valleys of the rivers are of decreased depth, and 
 " where they might be crossed to better advantage." 
 
 " Mr. Hunter's exploration of 1877 has, so far, proved the sound- 
 " ness of my views and has even exceeded my expectations." 
 
 Messrs. Gamble and MacLeod have ami)ly verified the views expres- 
 sed in the above extracts (see Mr. Fleming's Report, 18S0, pages -11, 45, 
 56) but it is difficult to untlerstand why such an extravagantly equipped 
 party was needed, especially with the whole summer before them. 
 
 The writer's party of 1872 was but a toy affair compared with the 
 expedition of 1879, which, in addition, was met from "Wmnipeg by 
 another outfit of no mean proportions. 
 
 In September, 1872, the writer and his associate, Mr. Macoun, left
 
 54 
 
 Edmoutoii with ten liorscs and two men en route for MacLeod Lake via 
 tlie Peace River. Nothing was then known of the country excepting by 
 the Hudson Bay people, but the little expedition made its way, and 
 passed tlirou<^'h the Peace River Pass at the most inclement season of 
 the year, reaching MacLeod Lake in November. The whole cost of that 
 examination did not exceed $1,000, and the rosiilts were highly im- 
 portant. 
 
 Note.— Cost of Horetzki's Expedition from Edmonton to McLeod 
 Lake : — 
 
 Hire of 10 horses from the Hudson's Bay Company. . ^450 
 *' " 2 men, Edmonton to Ptocky Mountain Canun 100 
 " " 4 Indians and 1 half-caste, PtOcky Moun- 
 tain Canon to McLeod Lake 207 
 
 " " Boat, (cash left with Hudson's Bay Company 
 
 to reimburse owners) 20 
 
 Provisions and sundries 200 
 
 $977 
 
 Mr. Cambie had also a Secretary at a high salary, besides a Major- 
 domo at $75 per mouth. The duties of this person were to talk to the 
 Lidians, to see to the putting up of the tents, etc., etc. Four or five of 
 Mr. Cambie's men were sent home from the east side via U. P. and C. P. 
 Eaikoads and steamer to Victoria, at a very great cost to the Gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 Let there be no misunderstanding ; Messrs. Dawson and MacLeod 
 did excellent work, the former, by examining the country as to soil, 
 geology and climate ; the latter, in surveying minutely the engineering 
 features of the line proposed in 1872. 
 
 Mr. Cambie takes exception to Professor Selwyn's description of the 
 country about Hudson's Hope. 
 
 The latter says at page G2, Geological Report of 1875: — 
 
 " 11th September. — A little white frost ; thermometer : 32° at 6 a.m. 
 " CLarlette lent us two horses, and, at 7.30 a. m., Mr. Webster and I 
 "started for Moberly's Lake. The trail runs two or three miles up the 
 " river, and then turns to the left and ascends by several steps or 
 " benches to the plateau; an undulating country of alternating low, 
 " sandy or gravelly ridges, covered with forest of small pine, and swampy 
 * depressions, with spruce and taraarac and well-grassed flats, thinly-
 
 55 
 
 *' wooded with aspen, alder and willow. In places the woods were all 
 " burnt, and in these brulen we lost a good deal of time searching for the 
 " trail. At 6 p. m., however, we reached the top of a hill, from which a 
 " small piece of the Lake was visible, about three miles distant down a 
 " narrow valley. "We camped here, an operation which consisted in 
 " lighting a fire, putting up a few boughs for a break-wind, and eating 
 " our supper of bread and dried moose meat. Starting at 7 a. m. ou 
 " the following morning, we reached a rocky hill immediately above the 
 " south-west end of the lake at 9.30. The trail wound round the flank 
 " of it and descended towards the lake shore. As there was nothing to 
 " be gained by following it further we diumounted, and, leaving our 
 " horses on the trail, climbed to the summit, where an extensive view of 
 " the surrounding country was obtained and a series of bearings taken. 
 " The barometer reading was 26.. 59, indicating about 2.000 feet above 
 " Hudson's Hope, and only a little less elevated than Table ^lountain 
 '' on Pine Eiver, which I think I recognised, bearing 97°. The strata 
 " here are quite similar to those of Table Mountain— horizontal, thick- 
 " bedded, reddish-brown and grey sandstones — but no fossils were seen 
 " in them. The hills around the lake, especially the lower slopes and 
 " the intervening valleys, are richly grassed. Pea-vine, Astmijalus and 
 " various nutritious grasses standing above one's knees on horseback. 
 " There are large areas of open prairie land, and more which is only 
 " wooded with willow, aspen and alder cop ices. On the higher slopes 
 " pine prevails, and, in the low grounds, spruce, tamarac and poplar. 
 " A purple-red jE'jt>i7oii(/'m is very abundant, also service-beri-y, 'poire' 
 '*' and a species of Viburnum — high-bush cranberry. I never saw the 
 " berries on the latter so fine or so abundant. On some of the open, 
 ^' sandy ridges, blueberries and cranberries were also plentiful. Charlette 
 " tells me that the snow fall is comparatively light, and that horses do 
 " well through winter amongst these hills. / consider it a region far 
 *' fitter for settlement than much of the Saskatchen-an countri/. "We are now 
 " in the middle of September, the thermometer has only once reached 
 " 32°, and potatoe tops at Hudson Hope are still green." 
 
 At page 51, Pacific Kailway Eeport, 1880, Mr. Cambie thue 
 -describes the same locality : — 
 
 " We reached Hudson's Hope September 15th, and tried to obtain 
 " a guide to take us to Pine Pdver, but failed, as the Indians were 
 " all absent; accordingly wo left next morning and followed a 
 " hunting trail to Moberly's Lake. The trail ascends from Peace Piver 
 " by a series of benches, and at one and a-half miles reaches the plateau, 
 " which is here about 2,000 feet above sea level, and continues at the 
 " same elevation to the fifth mile ; it then passes over a ridge 9()<» f.'ot 
 " above the plateau and along a steep hill side to the south-western end 
 " of Moberly's Lake, at an eiitimated elevation of 2,050 feet above sea 
 ^' level."
 
 56 
 
 " According to the best sources of information at my disposal, (Mr. 
 Sclwyn's Report) "Moberly's Lake should have been situated two-thirds 
 " of the way across from the Peace to Pine Eiver, and in a country 
 " fitted for settlement, though somewhat hilly and with large areas ot 
 •' prairie land." 
 
 " Great was my surprise, therefore, to find myself only nine miles 
 " from Hudson's Hope, and hemmed in by hills, rising from 3,000 to 
 " 4,500 feet above sea level, the only level land visible, being in the 
 " valley of Moberly's River, which empties into the lake from tlae west ; 
 " and further, that between me and Pine River lay a range of mountains 
 " at least sixteen miles broad, rendered almost impassible by fallen 
 " timber, the only prairies being on the slopes of steep hills facing the 
 " south." 
 
 " There was no possibility of retreat ; the party on Pine River was 
 " waiting for us; and, having only a limited supply of provisions, delay 
 " might prove disastrous to both parties." 
 
 " Fortunately, I was able to reinforce my little band by engaging 
 " the services of an Irishman named Armstrong, whom we found build- 
 " ing a shanty for himself in order to hunt during the winter ; he had 
 " spent part of the summer at the lake, hunting, prospecting for gold, 
 " and catching fish for the support of a number of sleigh dogs belonging 
 " to the Hudson Bay Company." 
 
 " White fish were then, [September 17th,] very abundant, and he 
 " gave us all we could carry. They varied from 4 to 6 lbs. in weight, 
 " were very fat and seemed to me quite equal to the far-famed white fish 
 " of Lake Huron." 
 
 " We followed the valley of Moberly's River, south-westwards, for 
 " eight miles and then turned southwards up a small tributar}'. After 
 " four days, during which we had chopped our way through fallen 
 " timber from day-light to dark, I found myself in a small basin with 
 " hills rising steeply 1,000 to 1,200 feet on both sides and in front, and 
 " these, where not actually precipitous, were so strewn with fallen 
 " timber of large size, that it seemed a hopeless task to attempt to cut 
 " our way through without help. I therefore sent two men ahead to 
 " find Mr. Major and get some of his party to come to our assistance, 
 " while I remained behind to take care of the mules, assisted by Arm- 
 " strong, who had cut his foot with an axe." 
 
 " My messengers returned three days afterwards with six men, and 
 " on September 24th, we reached Pine River and joined the main party." 
 
 " I estimated that we were only 17 miles from Moberly's Lake, but 
 " had travelled nearly 30, and in the last four miles had passed over a 
 " mountain 4,200 feet above sea-level. We were also 21 miles west of 
 " the point where I expected to find myself."
 
 57 
 
 " In the first five miles from Hudson Hope, vre had crossed two 
 " small tamarac swamps and some stretches of light, sandy soil, with a 
 " small growth of poplar and spruce." 
 
 " We had again met with some level land in th» Valley of Moberly's 
 " Lake, which for nine miles above the lake averages nearly half a mile 
 " in width in the bottom. Some portions of this are gravelly and barren 
 " and others fertile, with a few small prairies producing rich grass 
 " There are also some fine prairies at the lake, on slopes facing the south. 
 
 Mr. Macoun also remarks of this locality, page 152 of Geological 
 Report, 1875 :— 
 
 " The foUowmg extract from my journal, written on the spot, will 
 " give a truthful picture of Hudson Hope, as I found it on the 22nd 
 " of July, 1875 : — -I have been extremely surprised at the rankness of the 
 " vegetation around here, although there is very little rain at this season 
 " and has been little all spring. Wild peas and vetches grow to an 
 " amazing height in the poplar woods, and form almost impenetrable 
 " thickets in many places. Vetches, roses, willow-herb and grasses of 
 *' the genera Poa, Triticum and Bromus fill the woods and cover the burnt 
 " ground, and sm-prise Canadians by their rankness and almost tropical 
 " luxuriance. Charlette, who is in charge of this post, has two small 
 " gardens, in which he has growing, potatoes, onions, turnips, beets, 
 " carrots, cabbage, and various other vegetables. Yesterday we had new 
 " potatoes for dinner, of a very fair size, which were planted on April 
 " 28th. Numbers of the onions were one and a-half inches across, raised 
 *' from seed imported fi-om England, and sown about the 1st of May. 
 •' Growth is extremely rapid, owing partly to the length of day and 
 " cloudless skies supplemented by heavy dews, and possibly also in part 
 '* to the groat range of temperature during the 24 hours, from about 45° 
 " at sunrise to 80° Fahr. at noon. Sometimes the range is even more, 
 " but the above may be taken as the average. The rankness of the 
 " vegetation on the west shore of Lake Superior has frequently been 
 " alluded to, and may be caused by the somewhat similar great range in 
 " the temperature there. Can it be that all the rank vegetation observed 
 " around Lake Superior, in the Eocky I\fountains and here, is connected 
 " with the sinking of the temperature during the night, and increased 
 " activity given to the vegetation during the day on this account ? We 
 " have warm sultry days, and cool pleasant nights, with constant regu- 
 " larity, and we are told that this is the usual summer weather. The 
 " leit bank of the river is much drier than the right, and, as a consequence 
 " ot this, growth on it is much further advanced. The frost of the 28th 
 " of June, however, was more severe on the left bank than on the riglit. 
 " Charlette informed me that in 1874 there was no frost from the 1st of 
 " May to the 15th of September. In 1875, sowing commenced the last 
 " week in April, and the first frost came on the 8th of September."
 
 58 
 
 From the testimony cited in the foregoing pages, it must be manifest 
 that the final choice of the southern Burrard Inlet route may involve 
 conaequcnces of dire import to the Dominion of Canada. 
 
 It will, doubtless, be said in its justification, that the bulk of the 
 population, indeed, the entire population of the mainland, is centred along 
 the Frazcr Eiver and its tributaries in the south. True. But the personal 
 interests of 3,000 whites should not be allowed to weigh against the gen- 
 eral well being of the rest of British North America. 
 
 A line terminating to all intents and purposes, upon United States 
 soil, (at Holme's Harbour), and running for six hundred miles through 
 an irreclaimable wilderness is not what Canadians bargained for, it is 
 not what British Imperial interests demand, and Canadians, if loyal to 
 themselves and to Great Britain, will see to it. 
 
 As for the plea that the construction of 125 miles of railway between 
 Yale and Kamloops (to cost $12,000,000, and as much more as the con- 
 tractors may choose), is only intended for local purposes, that is to say, 
 for the purpose of serving the traffic of the interior plateau, which has 
 never yet exported a bag of flour, of which the sole agricultural exports 
 for 1878 were cranberries, valued in the aggregate at $462, then nothing 
 more need be said. 
 
 The canned and pickled salmon of the Lower Frazer, the lumber 
 trade of Burrard Inlet, the coal of Nanaimo, require no railroads. They 
 have tlie finest waterways in the world to serve their pm-pose. 
 
 The following facts are significant : 
 
 In hisEeport of 1879, Mr. Fleming penned the following paragraph, 
 which he has quoted at page 4 of his latest report : — 
 
 " It cannot be said that the selection of Burrard Inlet as a terminus, 
 " has given general satisfaction in British Columbia. On the contrary, 
 " a claim has been advanced in that Province that another route and 
 " terminus are preferable. It is, therefore, to be considered if additional 
 " exj)lorations should be made and more complete information obtained 
 " with regard to the northern country, so that it may be definitely deter- 
 " mmed if a route more desirable can be found. Accordingly, I suggest 
 " that the unexplored region, lying between Fort Connelly and Fort 
 " McLeod, in British Columbia, and those large tracts of vacant terri- 
 " tory east of the Rocky Mountains, in the latitude of Peace River, which
 
 59 
 
 " have never yet been traversed by scientific travellers, be explored, and 
 " accurate data obtained respecting the feasibility of a railway through 
 " that region to the Pacific Coast." 
 
 He, then proceeds to say in the Report of 1880 : — 
 
 " The Burrard Inlet route was known to be marked by many diffi- 
 " culties, and to involve an enormous outlay, but with all the disadvan- 
 " tages which it presents, I considered that it was entitled to the pre- 
 " ference. 
 
 " For six consecutive years, and at an exceptionally great cost, 
 " unremitting and systematic efforts had been made without success to 
 *' find a better and less expensive line. Indeed, there seemed no alter- 
 " native but the adoption of that route, unless further examination of 
 " the northern country made it apparent that a better and more eligible 
 " location could be found under conditions so favourable that it would 
 " command ready acceptance. 
 
 " Owing, in some degree, to the fact that the northern districts of 
 " British Columbia are remote from the areas of population, a northern 
 " route obtained but little attention during the early stages of the survey. 
 " It was only when it was found that no line could be secured in the 
 " more southern latitude, except at great outlay, that a northern route 
 " came prominently into notice, and that more extended examinations 
 " became desirable." 
 
 " It was a serious responsibility for any engineer to assume to 
 " recommend that construction should be commenced on the line to 
 " Burrard Inlet, without first having exhausted all the sources of enquh-y 
 " open to us. I felt that we should clearly and unmistakeably under- 
 " stand the capabilities and possibilities of the northern region, that we 
 " should obtain data, to determine if a railway line could bo obtained 
 " through it, that we should know the character of the route, and that we 
 " should possess fall information with regard to the climate, soil and 
 " capability for settlement, before the Government became irrevocably 
 " committed to the large expenditui-e attendant upon the adoption of any 
 " route." 
 
 " It is easy to he understood that, if, subsequent to the construction of 
 " the railtvaij on the southern route, it n-as discovered that a northern line 
 " could have been undertahen at a (jreatJy reduced cost, throuqJi a country, in 
 '' respect of soil and climate, suitable for prosperous settlement, a tjross and 
 " irronediable error would hate been committed, possibly ever to be deplored,"* 
 
 " Additional northern explorations, therefore, seemed to be advisable 
 " whatever ihe result obtained. Under any circumstances, it was evident 
 " that the information gained, even if of negative value, would be 
 " important in adding to our positive knowledge of the territory." 
 
 Note. — The reader's attention ia particularly requested to this paragrapli.
 
 60 
 
 " In April last, I was notifiocl that the Government had (lecidcd, 
 " previous to the determination of any route, to make additional oxamin- 
 " ation of the northern passes and of the country which flanks both sides 
 " of the mountains." 
 
 " These examinations it was proposed so to carry on tliat the 
 " information would be systematically and rapidly gained, that it could 
 " at once be acted on and the choice of the location, and the commence- 
 " ment of construction, no longer delayed." 
 
 " The extent of territory embraced was the country between the 
 " longtitude of Edmonton, east of the Eocky Mountains, and Port Simp- 
 " con, on the Pacific. Port Simpson had already been reported to be an 
 " excellent harbour. It was known that a deep-water arm of the sea, 
 " named Wark Inlet, some 35 miles ha length, extended to the east of 
 " Port Simpson, in the direction of the Eiver Skeena ; Wark Inlet being 
 " separated from the Skeena by a narrow isthmus of no great elevation.' 
 
 " The objects of the examination were to discover the most favour- 
 " able route from the coast to the Peace Kiver District, on the eastern 
 " side of the mountains, and thence to the line already located near 
 •' Edmonton ; to gain full information \vith regard to Port Simpson, to 
 " verify the reports as to "Wark Canal being navigable by ocean-sailing 
 " ships, to ascertain how far the couutrj^ lying between the head of that 
 " sheet of water and the Eiver Skeena, and the Valley of the Skeena itself, 
 " were suitable for a railway line, and to obtain such definite informa- 
 " tion respecting the nature of a portion of the line accessible to steam- 
 " ers from the ocean, as would admit of a contract for construction being 
 " at once let, in the event of a northern route being chosen." 
 
 " The examination really involved the determination of the problem 
 " whether the choice of the IBurrard Inlet route phould be sustained or 
 " abandoned, and if construction should be immediately commenced on 
 " the northern or on the southern line." 
 
 " The service was, consequently, one of importance. The instruc- 
 " tions to the officers selected, together with their Eeports, are given in 
 " full in the Appendix. As time was an element in the problem, it was 
 " arranged that tire examinations should be energetically carried out, 
 " and that so soon as the information was obtained, a s}Tiopsis of it 
 " should be sent by telegraph from Edmonton to Ottawa. Before the 
 " end of September the information was received and laid before the 
 " Government." 
 
 The writer was one of the '•' officers selected " to carry out these 
 examinations. His duty was the most arduous, and involved the 
 exploration of a route through three distinct mountain ranges, across a 
 hitherto unknown portion of the country, entirely on foot, and by canoe
 
 61 
 
 where possible. Tlte, section he had to examine loas in fact the key to tht 
 whole question of a route from Port Simjyson to the eastern 2>rairie region, 
 as his objective 2>oint was the Peace River Pass, the Pino River route 
 having been counted out. (Vide pages 9 and 10 Pacific Railway 
 Report of 1878, whereon Mr. Fleming says) : — 
 
 " I do not attach the same importance to the ' Pine River Pass ' as 
 *' Mr. Smith. * * * Although favourably situated for a line to a 
 " Northern Terminus, its importance is not enhanced by the fact that 
 " a still lower pass — Peace River — exists, only a few miles further north. 
 " I have accordingly projected a northern line of railway through Peace 
 " River Pass, which I consider preferable."* 
 
 On the 25th July, 1879, the writer indited the following letter 
 to Mr. H. J. Cambie : — 
 
 " Hazeltoh, Foeks of Skeena, 25th July, 1879. 
 '■'■ H. J. Cambie, Esq., 
 
 " Stewart's Lake, or elsewhere. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — ^ have just returned from a preliminary recounais- 
 " ance, via the Atnah Pass, Bear Lake, Driftwood River, Lake Tatla, 
 " and the ' Frying Pan Pass.' 
 
 " I have reached the following conclusions : that, if the Babine 
 " River prove as favourable as I suppose it will, a du'ect and generally 
 ' ' easy line will be found from its upper portion, easterly through a fau'ly 
 " level country, to the Kotsine River, thence across the Driftwood River 
 " Valley, and from Tatla Lake to the Omenica, by one of several low 
 " passes, either touching the Omenica-Sitlica, or through the present 
 " pass, used by miners, which I believe available for a railway. 
 
 " I have reason to think that the lower Omenica will prove favour- 
 " able. My preconceived ideas regarding this northern country and the 
 " central range through which the Frying Pan Pass leads, have been 
 " considerably modified since my recent journey, and I believe that the 
 " profile of this proposed line will prove better than any yet found, ex- 
 " cepting that of the Wotsonqua valley. 
 
 " There is quite a break in the central range in latitude 55° 40', and 
 *• through this gap flows the Kotsine River, which I bolieve will afl'ord a 
 " good pass (probably not higher than 3,000 feet above the sea) from a 
 " level valley which I have seen from mountain heights to the north- 
 " ward, and which communicates with the upper portion of the Babine 
 " River. 
 
 *' Eastward from the Driftwood River I anticipate no difficulty in 
 " getting over into the Omenica, as I have already stated. 
 
 • Note.— The writer always attached more importance to the Pine River Pass than to tliat of the 
 Peace Rirer, and Mr. Cambie hai been obliged to admit tliat the former is tlio better of the two.
 
 62 
 
 " Tho only objection T yet sec to this route is the circuitous course 
 " of the liabinc liivor, but that (Irawl)ack would bo commou to all other 
 " liucH ;.'/(' the southern end of Lake Talta. 
 
 •' Tho mouth of the Bahine River is at least forty miles due north 
 " from this jioint, and Fort Connolly is in a higher latitude than is 
 " shown on the map. On my return I have carefully examined the 
 " Susqua Valley, and have taken more precise heij;hts of its summit, 
 " which I now place at 1,400 feet above Lake Babine, and 3,100 feet 
 " above Hazelton. * * -x- * * j have, however, such 
 " good hopes of getting up the Babine Biver, between the mouth of which 
 ** and the Lake outlet, the ascent will probably not exceed 1,200 feet, 
 " that further reference to the Susqua valley route need scarcely now be 
 " made. 
 
 " I expect, D. v., to reach " Hogem" on the Omenica, about the 
 " end of September. 
 
 " I am, dear sir, yours, 
 (Signed) '' C. HORETZKY." 
 
 The substance of this letter was forthwith transmitted to Mr. 
 Fleming at Ottawa, and must have reached him some time in August. 
 
 Meanwhile, the Peace River party descended the Peace River, and 
 telegraphed the results of their examination as follows : — 
 
 "TELEGRAPHIC REPORT ON EXPLORATIONS FROM FORT 
 " SIMPSON, ON THE PACIFIC COAST, TO EDMONTON, VIA 
 " THE PEACE RIVER VALLEY AND PINE RIVER PASS, 
 " BY MESSRS. CAMBIE, MacLEOD, DAWSON AND GORDON. 
 " To Sandford Fleming, 
 " Ottawa. 
 
 " From Hay Lake, 24th September, 1879. 
 " (Near Edmonton.) 
 
 " Arrived last night. Reached Dun vegan 1st August; left there 
 " 2nd September. Party spent month in exploring country. Tupper 
 " left Edmonton 8th August. I came by Slave Lake and Athabasca 
 " Landing. Country from ten miles south of landing to Edmonton 
 " excellent on both sides of road, improving towards Edmonton ; chiefly 
 " prairie with aspen copse and occasional pine and spruce. Distances : 
 " Dunvegan to Smoky River Post, 50 miles ; Smoky River to Slave 
 " Lake Post, 62 ; Slave Lake, 70 ; east end Slave Lake to Athabasca 
 " Landing, by river, about 120 ; Landing to Edmonton, 96. My letters 
 " all forwarded, by mistake, to Tupper's care ; none received ; anxious 
 " to return homewards, without further special examinations. Country
 
 63 
 
 " around here appears superior to Peace River country for raising grain. 
 " Before leaving Dunvegan all agreed on the following telegiam : — 
 
 " Red line, letter A, to Slave Lake, direct and generally easy. 
 "Pine River, 500 feet wide; height of bridge, 70 feet. Gradients 
 •• leaving the river, 1 foot per 100. Summit eastward, 1)00 feet lower 
 «' than Hunter's, and 16 miles further north. ]\Iud River, 400 fett 
 " wide ; heiglit of bridge, 60 feet. Gradients on west side, very easy ; 
 " on east sicle, 1 per 100. 
 
 " Echafaud River, 300 feet wide ; bridge, 60 feet high. Gradients, 
 " moderate ; work occasionally heavy three miles on each side of bridge. 
 
 " River Brul^, 50 feet wide ; bridge 70 feet high. Valley, narrow ; 
 " gradients, easy. 
 
 " Smoky River, 750 feet wide ; bridge 100 feet high. Valley about 
 " 500 feet deep at crossing ; gradients, slightly exceeding 1 per 100. 
 " "Works very heavy for three miles on each side. 
 
 " Goose River, 400 feet wide ; valley, 200 feet deep ; bridge, 50 feet 
 " high. Gradients on each side easy. 
 
 " Whole country, from Pine River to Slave Lake, with these excep- 
 *' tions, very favourable. 
 
 ** Pine River and Slave Lake appear to be approximately correct on 
 " plan of 1876, but Smoky River and Danvegan are placed about 50 
 " miles to far west." 
 
 " Bliie line, letter A, to Southesk, examined to suitable crossing of 
 " Smoky River, latitude 55° 10', longtitude 118° 40' on the map of 1876. 
 " Blue and red lines, common to River Dcchafaud, 50 miles east of Pine 
 " River ; thence to Smoky River, generally very easy, excejit about four 
 " miles following up the south Bank of the Echafaud River, where 
 " work would be heavy. No important streams crossed between Pine 
 " River and Smoky River. Approach to Smoky River by valley of large 
 " stream on each side ; bridge, 500 feet long, 00 feet high. Cannot 
 " report on remainder of line, not having heard from Tupper. Have 
 " ascertained that he was still at Edmonton, on 2ad August." 
 
 " Line from Fort St. James to Fort McLeod, undulating, but pre- 
 " senting no great difficulties as far as Long Lake, thence to McLeod's, 
 " following valley of Long Lake River. Gradients, long, 1 per 100 ; 
 *' works very heavy, chiefly in gravel and stony ridges. A moderately 
 " dilrect line can be had from Fort Frazer to Fort St. James." 
 
 " Assuming dirept line from Southesk to crossing of Smoky River, 
 " the route by letter A to Fort Frazer would be about 55 miles longer 
 " than the located route." 
 
 " Country pretty thoroughly explored as to general features from 
 " Pine River to Lesser Slave Lake, between 55th and 5Gth parallels of
 
 64 
 
 " latitude, also for 70 miles north of Dunvegan. Elevation of plateau, 
 •' generally below 2,000 feet. West of Smoky River, soil almost evexy- 
 " where very fertile. Extensive areas of prairie and lightly wooded 
 " country south of Peace River to near 55th parallel, also 50 miles or 
 " more northward. East of Smoky River, also fertile, but with very 
 " little prairie, and with many swamps and beaver dams, which could be 
 " generally easily drained." 
 
 " From information received, summer frosts occur occasionally in 
 " June, very seldom in July. We have experienced several in August, 
 " botk in the valley and on the plateau. Wheat thrives and ripens at 
 " Hudson's Hope, Dunvegan and Lesser Slave Lake, the latter locality 
 " being on the level of the plateau." 
 
 *• The party regard this statement as approximately accurate, but 
 " regret that pressure of time prevents the preparation of fuller and more 
 •' satisfactory details as a special opportunity has arisen for forwarding 
 " this message from Dunvegan to Edmonton." 
 
 " At date of this Memorandum, 2nd September, all members of the 
 " party were well. Gamble returns with pack train by Pine River. 
 " MacLeod and Dawson continue explorations eastward and south-east- 
 " ward." • 
 
 (Signed) " H. J. CAMBIE, 
 
 " HENRY A. F. MacLEOD, 
 " GEORGE M. DAWSON, . 
 " DANIEL M. GORDON," 
 
 The writer desires to point out that the above telegram proves 
 beyond a doubt, the soundness of the views expressed in 1872, officially, 
 and in " Canada on the Pacific," see map therein, where " red line, letter 
 A to Slave Lake," referred to in the above telegram, corresponds exactly 
 with that shown on the map, and described to the Minister of Railways 
 in the Memorandum dated, 20th January, 1879. 
 
 A few days after the receipt of this despatch, Mr. Fleming addressed 
 the Minister of Railways, as follows : — 
 
 " Canada Pacific Railway. 
 
 " Office of the Engineer-in-Chief, 
 
 " Ottawa, 30th September, 1879. 
 
 " Sir, — I have the honor to report progress on some of the explora- 
 " tions authorized by you last spring, in connection with the Canadian 
 " Pacific Railway. 
 
 " Before deciding on the route through British Columbia, it was
 
 65 
 
 '" deemed advisable to gain additional information regarding tlie north- 
 " ern portions of that Province, as well as the territory exteudnig east of 
 " the Kooky Momitaius and lying between the latitude of Peace River 
 " and Edmonton. 
 
 " I have received despatches from several of the parties who were 
 '' sent in May last, under special instructions, to explore in these 
 " regions, and who were directed to examine the harbours on the northern 
 " coast of British Columbia and the approaches thereto by sea. 
 
 " At the date of last returns, these examinations were by no means 
 " complete, but considerable progress had been made, and the informa- 
 " tion so far obtained is of importance. 
 
 " The country south of Peace Piiver, hitherto unexplored, between 
 " the Eocky Mountains and Lesser Slave Lake, has been traversed in 
 " various directions as far south as the 55th parallel of latitude. The 
 " general character of the district for railway construction has been 
 " ascertained, and the fertile nature of the soil has been found to extend 
 " over a wider area than had been previously Imown. 
 
 " I have not heard from all the parties ; I cannot, tlierefore, refer 
 " to the explorations which by this time may have been made to the east 
 " of the mountains between the 55th parallel and Edmonton. 
 
 " Nor can I allude to the progress of explorations on the western 
 " side of the mountains between Fort MacLeod and Fort Connelly, 
 " embracing the basin of the Nation River. 
 
 " Altliougli the examinations are incomplete and the returns partial, 
 " nearly all doubts are now removed as to the possibility of getting a 
 " practical railway line from the neighbourhood of Edmonton, by way 
 " of Peace River, and the valley of the River Skeena, to Port Simpson. 
 " The coast examinations, too, go to show that at Port Simpson a har- 
 " hour exists, which is probably unrivalled in Britisli Columbia." 
 
 " The qucKtion of distance is an important one. The more northern 
 " route has not been instrumentally surveyed, and, consequently, the 
 •' distance to Port Simpson cannot yet be accurately stated. A rough 
 " estimate, however, indicates that the line referred to, from Edmonton 
 " as a common point ria the Peace River country, will probably be found 
 "100 miles shorter to Port Simpson than to Esquimalt. 
 
 " The cnguieering character and the cost would, at the same time, 
 '* I feel certain, be greatly in favour of the line terminating at Port 
 " Simpson." 
 
 " In comparing the line to Port Simpson, to which I have alluded, 
 " with the one via the Yellow Head Pass, to Burrard InUt, the latter 
 " appears to be from IGO to 190 miles shorter, bid one of (he advan- 
 
 b
 
 GO 
 
 " lanes irhich may be claimed for the more northern route is, that it v:otihl 
 " pass throiKjh and accommodate the Peace River couMtrij* Tlie lino by 
 " the Yellmv Head Pass could, with a branch, meet the same object, but 
 '• to serve the Peace River district equally with the raain line passing 
 " through ifc, Iho braucli would be fully 800 miles in length. If wo as- 
 " sume that this extra distance be added to the hnc to Burrard Inlet, 
 " we shall have both lines placed nearly on an equal footing, in point 
 " of mileage." 
 
 " The gradients on tho route to Port Simpson ivoidd compare favour- 
 " abli/ 9mth those on the line to Burrard Inlet, and I have reason to think 
 " that the total cost woidd be considerably lest than the latter inlien the 
 " branch is taken into consideration. My p]"evious reports give fall expla- 
 " nations regarding the favorable geographical position of Port Simpson 
 " in relation to the Asiatic continent, "f 
 
 " There can be no doubt that the, examinations made this year, of 
 " lohich p><^-i'tial returns only Jiave as yet been received, yo to show that the 
 " northern roiUe possesses advantages greater than previously known. From 
 " ivhat has been brought to light, I niould consider it imwise, at this stage, 
 " to adopt, and begin construction, on either the Burrard Inlet or Bute 
 " Inltt routes." I 
 
 " While I would deem it prutlent to defer a final decision "with 
 " regard to the adojjtion of any route, until we receive more definite 
 " information regarding some portions of the country nov/ under exam- 
 " ination, I have no hesitation in saying, that, considered apart from 
 " the quastion of climate, the route to Port Simpson jyresents itself loith 
 " so many advmdages ihat, to my mind, it opens up an excellent prospect 
 " of securing the most eligible route from the prairie region to the Pacific 
 " Coast." 
 
 " I have mentioned that tho returns from our exploring parties are 
 " incomplete. From what I have learned, however, I am sanguine 
 " enough to think that, before the close of the season, we may have data 
 " to show that a line may be secm-ed from the Peace River District to 
 " Port Simpson, considerably shorter than the line which I have above 
 " referred to. Should this view be realized, the comparison of routes 
 " will be still more in favour of the one terminating at Port Simpson. § 
 
 " With regard to the question of climate, I have, in previous 
 " reports, alluded to this subject. I now beg to refer to extracts from 
 " the letters of Capt. Bruudige, a nautical gentleman specially detailed to 
 
 *N0TE. — Precisely what the writer lias urged during the last eight jearg. 
 
 fNOTK.— Comparisons of cost will be found immensely advanta^eius, as re^^ards the Northern line, 
 and without tlie branch spoken of, while the Geoj,'ra;ihicaI position of the Kitimat is as favourable as 
 that of Port Simpson. 
 
 JNOTE.- With all deference to Mr. Fleming, the advantages of the Northern route irere known 
 before. 
 
 ^NoTE.— Mr. Fleniiiij refers to the substance of the WTiter's >/ter to Mr. H. J. Cambie, of date, 
 2.^th July, li-7P, relating'to the Kotsine Pass route.
 
 67 
 
 "make full examinatious and enquiries respecting the coast, harbours 
 " and approaches. I also append soma extract^j from Mr. D. M. 
 " Gordon's letters ; that gentleman speaks for himself, and Messrs. 
 " Gamble and MacLeod, in regard to the explorations they have been 
 " engaged in in Northern British Columbia. 
 
 " From these it would seem that, while tha interior of the country 
 " is free from an excess of moisture, the rainfall on the coast is great, and 
 " the climate there may compare generally with the west coast of Scot- 
 " land and with parts of Nova Scotia. From these extracts it will also 
 " be learned that Port Simpson is a capacious and safe harboui', and that 
 " it is perfectly easy of access to ocean steamers or sailmg ships, night 
 " or day, and at ail conditions of the tide. 
 
 " It is obvious that Port Simpson is a place which possesses excep- 
 " tional natural advantages, and in the event of a northern route for the 
 " railway being chosen, it would undoubtedly become a place of great 
 '* importance. I would, tharcforo, suggest that no time be lost in taking 
 " steps to have the land la the neighborhood reserved. 
 " I have the honor to be, 
 
 " &c., &c., &c., 
 (Signed) " SANDFOED FLEMING, 
 
 " Smjineer-in-Chief. 
 '■ The Hon. Sir Charles Tupper, K.C.M.G., 
 '* &c., &c., &c., 
 
 " Minister of Railv^^ays and Canals." 
 
 The foregoing letter shows conclusively that, even with the indefinite 
 information received up to its date, Mr. Fleming felt that the northern 
 route presented immense advantages — engineering and otherwise — over 
 the Burrard Line. Port Simpson is the finest harbour ou the whole 
 coast, but to reach it, the formidable '• Cascades,'' for a distance of 75 
 miles, must bo passed. 
 
 Notwithstanding this great disadvantage, Mr. Fleming still saw the 
 immense superiority of the northern route via Pine Pass, over the Bur- 
 rard Line. 
 
 What, then, would he have thought of it, had he known that the sea 
 could be reached without running the gauntlet of the coast range 
 at all, simply by taking advantage of the Valley of the Kitimat ? With- 
 out this knowledge, his letter to the Minister of Railways is unmistake- 
 ably in favour of deferring construction. And he had not then lieard the 
 writer's final report upon the missing link between Hazelton and the 
 Peace River Pass.
 
 6s 
 
 With the imperfect data then iu his possession, Mr. Fleming 
 strongly, unhesitatingly, exhorts the Minister of Railways to defer con-, 
 strnction on the southern lino, but despite this professional advice 
 proffered, it must be supposed, in good faith, an Order in Council was' 
 passed on the 4th October, ratifying the selection of the Frazer lliver line. 
 
 What is to be thought of this ? And it would be interesting to 
 know if Mr. Fleming had forgotten all about the Kitimat. The writer 
 reported upon it in 1874, Mr. II. J. Gamble spoke of ii privately in 1877, 
 and had it again under his notice in 1879, yet the subject was completely 
 ignored. 
 
 This matter is certainly worthy of full investigation for many 
 reasons : — 
 
 The Kitimat, Pine Pass route is the easiest of all the lines hitherto 
 examined in British Columbia. It presents fewer miles of heavy work 
 than any other. 
 
 Between Eocky Mountain Summit and the Pacific its construction 
 will cost (approximately) ten millions dollars less tha^i the Burrard 
 Yellow Head route. It passes through the dreaded coast range by a 
 wide, open valley, the finest on the coast. 
 
 East of the Piocky Mountains it opens up a nearly continuous belt 
 of agricultural and pastoral land, all the way from the Forks of Pine 
 River to Manitoba. 
 
 Its general profile is the finest across the North American continent 
 from ocean to ocean. Its highest summit is only 2,800 feet above the 
 sea level. 
 
 On the Pacific slope it taps the greatest connected region susceptible of 
 cultivation in British Columbia (Vide Dawson's report) which has a 
 climate similar to that of Edmonton, where wheat attains perfection. 
 ( Vide Macoun's Report.) 
 
 At its western end there are unlimited facilities for the growth and 
 extension of a large city. 
 
 Its terminus is only 4,000 miles from Yokahania, being 400 miles 
 nearer to Japan and China than Burrard Inlet. That terminus is easier 
 and safer of access than any proposed to the south, and Captain Brun- 
 didge expresses the opinion that the passages leading to it, and its 
 approaches from the sea, are the best on the coast. (Vide page 154,
 
 69 
 
 Kailway Eeport 1880.) It is within ten or twelve Lours steaming of 
 Port Simpson, the best harbour on the British Cohimbian coast. It 
 has, within easy reach, numerous havens of refuge. AVith the wind at 
 west, south-west or south-east, sailing ships can reach the head of 
 Douglas Channel, via Nepean Sound, toithoiU towage. 
 
 With a light-house on Cape St. James, and three other lights in the 
 inner passages, the coast can be made on the darkest night with 
 perfect safet}'. 
 
 In none of tlia numarous channels leading from the ocean to Doug- 
 las Inlet, are there any tide-rips or overfalls, the tide setting regularly 
 along the coast, and rarely, if at all, exceeding a rate of three knots 
 per Lour. 
 
 Certain marine engineering works will be necessary to form a per- 
 fectly good harbour at Kitimat. Those have been referred, to in the 
 preceding pages. 
 
 It is clear that a northern, route terminating either at Port Simpson 
 or at the Kitimat, will be cheaper by millions of dollars than the Bur- 
 rard line. 
 
 It is also evident that, to answer the purposes of a Colonization road, 
 the northern line is infinitely preferable to the southern route, which 
 must run for six hundred miles through an irreclaimable wilderness. 
 
 It is, or should be, intelligible to all, that, to carry a great coloniza- 
 tion and imperial highvv^ay out of its proper course, upon the plea of 
 serving the interests of 2,000 or 1^,000 whites on the Frazer River, is 
 absurd. 
 
 The writer feels that, strengthened as he is by the written testimony 
 already cited, and backed by the evidence of the Chief Engineer him- 
 self, in his letter of the 30th September, 1879, addressed to Sir Charles 
 Tupper, the ground he has taken in support of a northern route is 
 impregnable. 
 
 In July, 1878, an Order in Council was passed, practically adopting 
 the Burrard Inlet route. The late Premier had, acting upon the advice 
 of the Chief Engineer of the Pacific Railway, authorized this action. 
 
 It has been shown, conclusively, that all roports upon the Kitimat 
 Valley and route had been suppressed, and the inference is, that the 
 matter had never been discussed between the Premier and his Engineer.
 
 7(5 
 
 indeed, the " Kitimat " had been systematically covered up, and hidden 
 from everyone. 
 
 The probabilities are that, had Mr. Mackenzie been made aware of 
 the existence of a fine valley through the coast range, as indicated, a 
 thorough and exhaustive survey of the northern route would have been 
 made before the adoption of a southern line. Mr. Mackenzie never had 
 that information, consequently, he had no alternative but to follow his 
 Engineer's suggestion, and adopt the Burrard line. 
 
 After the change of Administration in September, 1878, Mr. Fleming 
 again urged the necessity for northern surveys, deploring in forcible 
 language the serious consequences of a possible mistake in the choice of 
 routes. As has been shown by the evidence given in the preceding pages, 
 a cheaper and better route than that of Burrard Inlet was found. 
 
 If the reader will once more refer to the Chief Engineer's Report of 
 the 8th April last, a strange and rather significant omission will be ob- 
 served. The remarkably clear and very pronounced letter of 30th Septem- 
 ber, 1879, from Mr. Fleming to Sir Charles Tupper, urging the imprudence 
 of adopting, oi" beginning construction on, the Burrard Inlet Line, in 
 view of the examinations of 1879 by the Peace River party, is nowhere 
 alluded to in that Report. 
 
 The importance of the letter in question being so great, and Mr. 
 Fleming's opinion therein expressed so very decided, it is surprising that 
 it should have been overlooked. Its omission from a report intended for 
 the public is, under tha circumstances, tantamount to an unequivocal 
 withdrawal, and the public, having access to the report alone, must read 
 the omission in such a light. 
 
 The question then arises : Had the Burrard Inlet line been decided 
 upon beforehand, at all hazards, regardless of incalculable future injury 
 to the Dominion ? Were British Imperial interests — an important 
 factor in the railway scheme — to be sacrificed, by adopting a line 
 terminating on United States soil, or, at the best, under the very guns of 
 San Juan ? 
 
 "Were the blunders of former Boundary Commissions to be supple- 
 mented by another, still further aggravated by the fact that its committal 
 is actually taking place in full view of recent knowledge gained at great 
 expense, and in direct opposition to the Chief Enjineer's vigorous protest of 
 the 30th September last /
 
 71 
 
 Were tlie explorations of 1879, then, a mere sham ? These explora- 
 tions were solemnly, avowedly undertaken for the 'express purpose of 
 averting a possible error, a calamity " ever after to be deplored " as Mr. 
 Fleming gravely wrote. [See page 5, of Report.] 
 
 The results of these explorations are glaringly apparent, and point 
 unmistakeably to a far better route for colonization purposes, and also cue 
 much easier of construction, and consequently less costly ; yet, notwitlx- 
 standiug, the Order in Council of July, 1878, was ratified, and a report 
 framed in accordance. 
 
 The whole matter is certainly well worthy of a. searching investiga- 
 tion, and in the meantima may afford the taxpayers ample food for 
 reflection. 
 
 Within the past few weeks there have b3en rumours of a proposal, 
 on the part of the Dominion Government, to hand over fifty millions 
 acres of land in the North- West, to a company of E-nglish capitalists for 
 the purpose of building the Pacific Eailway. Kecent movements of 
 Ministers appear to confirm the truth of the report, and it is not unlikely, 
 ere many weeks elapse, that somathing more definite may be heard. 
 
 In 1871, the scheme in which Sir Hugh Allan figured so promin- 
 ently, but which, fortunately for the country, fell to the ground, involved 
 a grant of 20,000 acres of land, together with a cash bonus of $12,000 
 for each mile of railway constructed. The land was to have been taken 
 up along the entire length of the road from Nipissingue to the Pacilic, 
 good and bad acres, indiscriminately. 
 
 That scheme, impolitic as Canadians then judged it to be, was far 
 less dangerous to the interests of the ]S^orth-^Yest than the present 
 proposition. It now appears, if newspaper reports can. be relied on, 
 that English capitalists will not look at any of the lands withm the 
 Woodland and Piocky ^Mountain regions, knor/ing that both eastern and 
 western sections of the road where located now, pass through a worthless 
 country. They are to help themselves to the " cream" of the North- 
 West, and will confine their choice within the erroneously designated 
 "thousand mile" belt of prairie. 
 
 The proposition, if allowe.l, will be excessively unwise, and merits 
 universal reprobation.
 
 72 
 
 If the ori,%'in,'il scliomo of 1871 oflerod speculators any real advan- 
 tages — wlucli from o'nr present knowledge of the country, appears doubt- 
 ful — the proposition of to-day, while trebling the apparent inducements 
 to capitalists, so far as the lands are concerned, will be productive of the 
 most disastrous effects throughout the North-West. 
 
 Of course, but for the harassing arrangement of 1871 with the 
 Pacific Province, there would be no necessity or excuse whatever for 
 such measures as are apparently in contemplation, because the Dominion 
 Government, were it at liberty to carry on the work in a common-sense 
 manner, is perfectly able to build the prairie sections of the Pacific 
 Eailway as fast as necessary, without overburdening the tax-payers of 
 the older provinces, while the construction of the British Columbian 
 portion of the road could be deferred ; but politics, and the Pacific Province 
 being paramount over all other considerations, the entire North-West 
 may shortly ba sacrificed oa that account, and find itself bound hand 
 and foot under the domination of a gigantic and soulless monopoly, 
 unless the people awaken to a sense of the impending danger. 
 
 Let ITS enquire for a moment into the consequences of transferring 
 the only available choice lands of the North-AVcsb from the custody of 
 the Governmont to that of a great corporation or body of capitalists. 
 It is universally admitted that all land monopolies are a curse, and 
 utterly subversive of a fair and liberal policy. To-day in Manifc^jba, 
 as the result of an atrocious system on a small scale, what between the 
 Hudson Bay Company and some large private proprietors, it is impos- 
 sible to purchase lauds either at or near V/innipeg, or along the line of 
 the Pacific llaihvay, excepting at ridiculously high figures. To such a 
 degree has the abominable system been carried, that recently arrived 
 intending settlers have turned back in disgust to take uj) the equally 
 good, but cheaper lands of Dakota and Minnesota. 
 
 What then will be the state of things when the whole prairie belt 
 is controlled by a private corporation '? The inevitable result will be 
 to unfairly enhance the price of all lands within the limits of the rail- 
 way grant, and to iuipede or totally prevent settlement of the soil by the 
 poorer classas of colonists to whom we must leok in a great measure for 
 agricultural development. In the case of the Central Pacific Eailway, 
 Congress granted to the Company all the alternate sections on each 
 side of the road, for twenty miles back, or an area of 12,800 acres for 
 each mile built. The imm3diate result w.xs to increase the price of the
 
 ordinary public lauds retained by Government within the limits of the 
 railway grant, from §1.25 to $2.50 per acre. Congress was actually 
 forced to raise the price of Government lands at the bidding of the Rail- 
 way Company, which, of course, had uo desire to see adjoining lands 
 sold for half the price of the railway reserves. Similar, if not worse 
 results will follow in the case of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The 
 lands will be sold at a high figure, and in many instances on credit ; 
 they will be mortgaged to the Eailway Corporation at high interest, and, 
 the result in the majority of cases will be that the poor, struggling 
 settler v/ill insensibly drift into a state of bondage, while an odious 
 system of feudalism will be inaugurated throughout the North-"$Vest. 
 
 Let any one enquire into the condition of the small farmers along 
 the lines of railway in the United States, which have been subsidized by 
 land grants, and it will be found that even in the best settled States of 
 the west, a largo number of the fairest farms are mortgaged beyond 
 redGmi)tion to the grasping corporations which own and control the 
 roads. 
 
 The unhappy effects' of land monopolies must still be fresh in the 
 memory of French Canadians. How were the townships between the 
 St. Lawrence and the frontier depopulated ? What caused the esodus of 
 the flower of Canadian youth, when one-twentieth of the whole popula- 
 tion of Lower Canada, some thirty years ago, went into exile, driven 
 from their homes by a selfish land policy, to increase the population of 
 Maine and Vermont ? What was the testimony of the Abbe Ferland and 
 many of the most respected Roman Catholic clergymen of Lower 
 Canada, when questioned as to the causes of depopulation ? And will 
 the French Canadians of to-day sutfcr the repetition of such a policy of 
 extinction and degradation of the French race in the North- West, of 
 wliich their daring ancestors and self-denying priesthood have been the 
 honoured pioneers and discoverers ? 
 
 The Government is bound by every principle of justice to watch 
 over and jealously guard Canada's heritage in the west. It is bound to 
 see to the encouragement of the honest settlement of the country, and 
 the only way to do this is to render the possession of extravagantly large 
 estates burdensome to the owners, and to compel the occupation of the 
 land by its proprietors. Any other land policy will bring about the most 
 disastrous eflects.
 
 74 
 
 At present, owing to the extravagant ideas of which the public has 
 become possessed through misleading reports with regard to the fertile 
 areas west from Manitoba, it may be interesting to review briefly the 
 character of the lands adjoining the proposed line of railway, from 
 Nipissinguo to; the Pacific. The idea has gone abroad that the entire 
 country from Eed Eiver to the Eocky Mountains is a perfect flower 
 garden, inexhaustible as to its extent and resources. 
 
 People accustomed to the dark forests of Eastern Canada, are too 
 apt to rush into ecstacies at the unwonted appearance of the grassy plains 
 of Manitoba. In fact, there has been a little too much enthusiasm. 
 What is the reality ? 
 
 There are no good lands between Nipissingue and Red Eiver, the 
 region north of Lakes Huron and Superior, being for the most part 
 rocky, sterile, and difficult for railway purposes, while the coimtry be- 
 tween Thunder Bay and Manitoba, offers but few inducements for 
 settlement. 
 
 The "Woodland Eegion," in the words of the Chief Engineer, " does 
 not offer anij great prospect of becoming an agricultural country.'' 
 
 The maps facing pages 23'i and 245 of the last Eailway Eeport, are 
 calculated to mislead, and the assertion is here reiterated, that the good 
 saleable, agricultural lands, along the proposed railway line, cease at 
 Lake St. Anne, some 45 miles west of Edmonton Fort. Between Lake 
 St. Anne and the Yellow Head Pass — a distance of 200 miles — we have 
 the authority of Engineer McLeod and of the Eeverend George Grant, 
 and others, for stating the country to be nearly all worthless and much 
 of it muskeg, while, regarding the valueless character of the British 
 Columbian section, the reader can refer to the authorities already quoted. 
 
 The only valuable lands along the route of the proposed Pacific 
 Eailwaj', are between ^Manitoba and Edmonton, or more strictly speak- 
 ing. Lake St. Ann — a distance of about 750 miles — and the character of 
 those lands has been thus described by Mr. H. MacLeod, an officer of 
 Mr. Fleming's staff, and a gentleman of undoubted veracity. 
 
 " Of the country between Winnipeg and Lake St. Ann, I estimate 
 " that the proportion of excellent farming land is about 48 per cent. ; 
 *' fair land, 15 per cent.; and poor, light sandy, or clay and boulders, 
 " 42 per cent. ; the latter is, however, suitable for grazing purposes. 
 " The hills are generally poor soil. The area of land covered with
 
 75 
 
 " timber — small poplar— between Livingston and Edmonton, along the 
 " line of railway, is about 54 per cent. For 200 miles west of Living- 
 " stone the country is much covered with wood and water." 
 
 From the above quotation, it will be noted that, only about one-half 
 of those lands is really good, and readily saleable. The extracts from 
 other Surveyor's reports confirm Mr. MacLeod's statement. 
 
 In view, then, of the true facts of the case, in so far as the land 
 question is concerned, it may not be such an easy matter to induce 
 foreign capital to assume the responsibility of building the Pacific Rail- 
 way, as now proposed. If the unwise scheme of conveying the choice 
 lands of the North-West to a foreign Comimny be carried out, and a 
 Corporation be found sufficiently insane to undertake the construction of 
 a railway through the Eastern Woodland region and the mountains of 
 British Columbia, in consideration of even such a large slice from the 
 central section, as the Government may dare to offor, and a cash bonus 
 such as that proposed in '1871, those who embark in the scheme must 
 bear the consequences. All the writer can say on the subject is " Caveat 
 Einjitor. ' ' 
 
 In the neighbouring states and territories of the Republic, there are 
 millions of acres of fine lands to be had for a merely nominal sum, and 
 companies of Capitalists would find, that to build the Pacific Railway 
 even from Manitoba to the Pacific, all the Dominion acres within 100 
 miles of the line of road in the fertile section, i.e. between the western 
 boimdary of Manitoba and Edmonton, will not suffice. The proof is a 
 simple calculation. A strip of 700 miles in length, and 200 miles in 
 width, equals 140,000 square miles, or a little over 89,090,000 acres, 
 nearly half of which munt be assumed of inferior quality, if we adopt Mr. 
 H. MacLeod's estimate of the proportions of inferior, to first-class fertile 
 areas. But the Government cannot give away such wholesale quantities 
 of land in this manner. The proposition is, it may be presumed, to grant 
 aUeriiate sections only, so that the estimate now made must be reduced 
 one-half, and the probabilities are that, even ui)on the basis of " hundred 
 mi/<3 " blocks on both sides of the southern line, the choice lands avail- 
 able for capitalists will not exceed, after deductions for worthless lands 
 are made, an area of 25,000,000 of acres. 
 
 It has been shown upon the authority of Messrs. Dawson, Selwyn, 
 Marcus Smith, Macoun, Eberts, O'Keefe and Smith, that from the 
 " Middle Forks " of Pine River, upon the northern line, a nearly contin- 
 
 "^1:
 
 76 
 
 uous belt of lino agriculturiil aucl pastoral land stretches almost unin- 
 terruptedly to Manitoba, a distance of one, thousand miles. • 
 
 The estimates of Messrs. MacLeod and Cambie lead to the belief 
 that tlie western section of this line, will cost much less than the corres- 
 ponding section on the Yellow Head route, Mr. Marcus Smith has 
 stated that it may be safely estimated that work of construction will 
 g(^erally cost much more on the southern than on the northern line. Mr. 
 S. Fleming, the Chief Engineer, has given his opinion that the present 
 work of construction, on the Frazer, is unwise, in view of the advantages 
 offered by the northern line. The accumulation of evidence given in 
 those pages confirms these views: The northern Una is therefore the 
 better of the two for purposes of colonization and also of construction. 
 Canadians may note these facts. 
 
 The writer is perfectly aware that the views embodied in this 
 joamphlet will create some surprise, and, perhaps, excite the indignation 
 of those journals which have alreadf constituted themselves the " Men- 
 tors " of the people upon the question discussed. 
 
 The writer has, as must be perfectly apparent, abstained as much 
 as possible from obtruding his own views upon the public, his aim has 
 been so to group all the trustworthy evidence as to afford those chiefly 
 interested — the already overburdened taxpayers — ready means of making 
 themselves thoroughly acquainted with the subject. It is claimed for 
 this paper that it is more a synopsis of evidence, a summing up, as it 
 were, of the best testimony, than an exposition of any particular theory. 
 A simple, unvarnished statement of hard, stubborn facts has been made, 
 and the writer frankly admits, that it will concern him much to see that 
 statemeiit unfairly impugned, as an attack upon this pamphlet can mean 
 nothing more or less than an outrage upon many of the ablest and most 
 valuable officers of the Geological and Pacific Kailway Staff of Canada, 
 wbose of&cial evidence has formed, to a great extent, the basis of this 
 discussion.
 
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