v.v.%x., ----% - - ' * t ..(t * ....%:%.*//' .%:*<..'.%!%..: Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES DA PREFACE. ON the utility of a work of this nature it is fcarce ne- cefljry to expatiate. No part of the kingdom, per- haps, can prefent more attractive fcenes than the environs of London; in which the man of leifure may find amufe- ment, and the man of bufinefs the m'oft agreeable relaxation. With refpecl, indeed, to rural fcenery,the country, defcrib-, ed in the following Tour, does not exhibit Nature in her more fublime and ftupendous views : it prefents no favage mountains crowned with perennial fnows, no vaft extent of uncultivated wilds, no tremendous catarafts, no won- derful expanfe of waters ; but rural elegance and rural beauty appear in their moll fafcinating forms. Royal pa- laces, magnificent feats, and elegant villas interfperfed, af- ford inexhauftible gratifications for curiofity; in fome, the fineft collections of paintings, ineflimable antiques, venera- ble decorations of ancient fplendour, or all the exquifite embellifhments of modern tafte. Here, extenfive pro- fpefts charm the eye with undefcribable variety: there, the landfcape, lefs extenfive, invites the penfive mind to con- templation ; or the creative powers of Art exhibit an Ely- fium, where Nature once appeared in her rudeft form. To affift the inhabitants of the Metropolis, or its orca- fional vifitors, in the choice of their excurfions, is- a prin- cipal objeft of this publication : to be an entertaining com- panion in thefe excurfions is another. With this view, the Editor has not only defcribed whatever he found cuiions in the works of Nature or of Art, but where any place has been diflinguifhed by fome memorable circumflance, he has not forgotten how much the incidental recollection of it may improve the fourcesof converfation , nor what plea- fure a well- cultivated mind may derive from contemplating the favourite retreats of the benefactors and ornaments of mankind ; where the ftatefman mufed, in folitude, on the welfare of his country, or meditated on the inftability of fublunary grandeur; where the philofopher enriched the age with his fublime difcoveries ; or the poet " informed a 2 " the IV PREFACE. 14 the page with mufic, image, fentiment, and thought;"' where a Richard Cromwell preferred the fcenes of inno- cence and peace to all the glory of guilty greatnefs; where a Lyttelton received the h'rft convictions of religious truth ; or au Addifon exemplified, in a happy death, the pleafures and importance of a virtuous life, ft is natural to view fuch fcenes with a degree of enthufiafm, and to confider the ground we tread as almoft facred. This fentiment, indeed, is too natural to be novel; it is as old as Tully : ** Movemur enim," fays that admirable writer, " nefcio " quo pacto, locis ipfis, in quibus eorum, quos diligimus '* ant admiramur, adfunt veftigia. Me quidem ipfe i'lae " noftroe Athens:, non tarn operibus magnihcis exquifi- *' tifque antiquorum artibus delectant, quam rccordatione * fummcrum virorum, ubi quifque habitare, ubi federe, * ubi difputare fit folitus." The fluctuations of property, as was expected, have ren- der ed many alterations indifpenfable in the prefent editioa of this work. Of thefe, the Editor has endeavoured to procure the mofl accurate information. Betide all the cor- rections to the prefent day, the additions -and improve- ments have been fo numerous, that this eighth edition may be almoft confidered as A NEW WORK; and the Editor flatters himfelf, that in none of the articles will fuch infor- mation be fought for in vain, as can reafonably be expend in n work, profefTedly intended as a Pocket Companion. It would be illioeral not to acknowledge here, the great affiftance which the Editor has derived from the three quarto volumes, already published, of " The Environs of London, by the Rev. Daniel Lyfons, A.M." a work not calculated merely to gratify the poring and laborious An- tiquary, but to afford information and amufement, moft agreeably blended, to the Gentleman and the Man of Tafte. ' AN AN ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE NOBILITT CENTRA The prefent Proprietors and Occupiers of the Seats men* tioned in this Work. A. , Rev. Thomas Abdy, 31 Abercorn, Marquis of, 42 Ackland, Mr. 35 Aguelar, Abraham, Efq. 298 Allanfon, Mrs. 226, 26; Allen, Alexander, Efq. 186 Amherft, Lord, 187, 226 Anderfon, J. W. Efq. 186 Andrews, William, Efq. 6a Angeli, Mr. 141 Angerftein, John Julius, Efq. 310 Anfpach, Margrave of, 49 Antrobus, Philip, Efq. 64 Apreece, SirT. H. 79 Arden, Sir R. P. 120 Armftrong, Edmund, Efq. 91 Armftrong, James, Efq. 265 Arnold, George, Efq. 1 1 6 Alton, Sir Willoughby, 253 Aubert, Alexander, Efq. 144 Auckland, Lord, 40 Aufrerr, George, Efq. 64 Aylmer, Mr. 294 Aynfcomb, Mifs, 190 Ayfcough, G. M. Efq. 198 B. Bacon, John, Efq. 37 Biker, William, Efq. 134 Baker, Samuel, Efq. 134 Baker, John, Efq. 178 Baldwin; Chriftopher, 73 Banks, Sir Jofeph, 240 Barchard, Mr. 285 Barker, Lady, 213 Barlow, Francis, Efq. 186 Barnard, Frederick, Efq. 3ft Barnes, Richard, Efq. 220 Baroneau, Francis, Efq 193 Barrett, Bryant, Efq. 243 Barwell, Smyth, Efq. 251 Barwick, James, Efq. 281 Barwi?, Jackfon, Efq. 137 Baynes, William, Efq. 129 Beachcroft, Samuel, Efq. 80 Bearcroft, Edward, Efq. 137 Beauclerk, Lady Diana, 223 Beaulieu, Earl, 83 Bedford, Duke of, 70, 250 Benfield, Paul, Efq. 29! Bennett:, Rev. Mr. 261 Benyon, Richard, Efq. . Of this huge, ponderous refidence of the Lord Mayors of the City, Mr. Pennant is content to obferve, in the words of Pope's character of Cromwell, that it is " damned- to everlafting fame." It is built of Portland ftone, and has- a portico ot jjx lofty fluted columns of the Corinthian order in the front; the fame order being continued in pilafters, both under the pediment and on each fide. The bafement iiory is very mafly, and built in ruftic ; and on each fide nfes a flight of fteps of confiderable height, leading'iip to- the portico, in the middle of which is the door to the apart- aieuts and offices. The columns fupport a Jarge angular- C 2 pediment, 1 6 LONDON. pediment, adorned with a noble piece in baflb relievo, re- prefenting the dignity and opulence of the city of London, executed by Sir Robert Taylor. Beneath this portico arc- two feiies of windows extending along the whole front ; and above this is an Attic llory, with fquare windows, crowned by a baluftrade. The building lias an area in the middle, and the apartments are extremely noble, parti- curly " The Egyptian Hall." The firft ftone was laid in 1739; the expence of building it was 42,638!. and the iuin voted for furnifhing it, in 1752, was 4000!. THE MONUMENT. This noble column was ere&ed, in commemoration of the great fire in 1 666, when the damage occafioned by the devouring element \vasefrimatedat 10,716,000!. Is was begun in 1671, and finifhed in 1677, by Sir Chriflopher Wren. It is a fluted Doric column, 202 feet high. On the weft ficie of the pedeftal is a bafs-relief by Gibber. It is an emblematical reprefentation of this fad cataftrophe; and Kin* Charles is feen furrounded by Liberty, Genius, and Science, grving directions for the reftoring of the city. The infcription, imputing the calamity to the Papifts, is now univerfally confidered as unjuft: a circumftance, in courfe to which Pope not improperly alludes : Where London's column painting at tbc fl?!s, Like a tall bully lifts his bead anil Iks. BRIDGES. LONDON BRIDGE, to the weft of the Tower, was firft built of wood, about the beginning of the nth century. The prefent ftone bridge was begun in 1176, and finifhed in 1209. The length of it is 915 feet, the exaft breadth of the river in this part. The number of arches was 19, of unequal dimenfions, and greatly deformed by the enor- mous flerlings, and by houfes on each fide, which overhung and leaned in a terrible manner. Thefe were removed in 1756, when the upper part of the bridge aflumed a modern and very noble appearance. But the flerlings were fuf- fered to remain, although they contract the fpace between the piers fo greatly, as to occafion, at the ebb of every tiAft UONDON; 17 tid-e, a fall of five feet, or a number of temporary catarab,- which, fince the foundation of the- bridge, have occafioned the iofs of innumerable lives. WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, univerfally allowed to be the fineft in the world, was built by Mr. Labelye, a native of Switzerland. The firft ftone was laid in 1739 ; the kit in 1747 ; but, on account of the finking of one of the piers, the opening of the bridge was retarded till 1750. The whole of the fuperftrufture is of Portland ftone, except the: fpandrels of the arches, which are built of Purbeck. It is. 1223 feet in length. It has thirteen large, and two fmall femicircular arches : the centre arch is 76 feet wide ; the other arches, on each fide, decreafing in width four feet. The architect aflerted, that the quantity of ftone ufed in this bridge was nearly double to that employed in St. Paul's Cathedral, and that the whole expence did not ex- ceed 218,800!. The utility of fuch a bridge muft have been unqueftiona- ble, at the time when the defign of erecYmg it was formed; yet fuch was the contracted policy which then actuated the city of London, that they presented a petition to Parlia- ment againft this noble undertaking. Great oppofition too was made to the building of a ftone bridge. The plan and eftimate of one compofed of wood was laid before the Com- miffioners, and favourably received ; but, on urging the architect to fix a fum for keeping it in repair, for axer- tain number of years, he declined making any propofals ; notwithftanding which, the wooden project had many friends ; and it was only by a fmall majority in the Houfe of Lords that the plan for a ftone bridge was carried. The minority, on this occafion, obtained the appellation of " wooden Peers." BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE, that elegant addition to the magnificence of the metropolis, was built by Mr. Mylne. The firft ftone was laid in 1 760, and the whole was com- pleted in 1768, at the expence of 152,840!. 35. lod. The length of this bridge is 995 feet ; the breadth of the carriage, way 28, and of the foot-paths feven feet each. It confifts of nine elliptical arches, the centre one of which is 100 feet wide; and both this and the arch on each fide, are wider than the celebrated Rialto at Venice. The Ionic C 3 pillars i LONDON. pillars projecting from the piers give a happy relief to the whole, and appear fingularJy light and beautiful from the River. Thefe columns lupport recedes, for foot paflengers, in the baluftrades of the bridge. This noble ftruclure is built of Portland ftone ; but its decay is already too vifible, while Weftminfter Bridge has flood half a century with- out receiving the fmalleft injury from time. London and Weftminfter, the river Thames,' and the adjacent country, are viewed from no other fpot with more advantage than from this bridge. MUSEUMS. The BRITISH MUSEUM, which is open to the public gratis, according to a prefcribed form of rules,* was founded by Parliament, in 1753, in purfuance of the will of Sir Hans Sloane, Baronet, who -directed his executors to offer to the public, his calleftion of natural and artificial ciirio- fities and books, for the furn of 20,000!. This offer being Accepted, the-noble building called Montague Houfe, which had been built by the firft Duke of Montague, was pur- chafed for their reception. At the fame time were pur- chafed for io,oool. the MSS. collected by Edward Har- Jey fii-ftEarl of Oxford. Here are likewife the collections * ?uch literary gentlemen as defirc to Itudy in it, are to give in their names and places of abode, figned by one of the officers, to the corr.mittee ; and it" no objeii>n is made, they are admitted to perufc any books o|V manufcriptSj which are brought to them by the mcffenger, as foon as they ' come to the reading-room, in the morning at nine o'clock ; and this order lafts fix moths, after which they may have it renewed. There, arc fome curious iranufcripts, however, which they are not permitted to perufe, nnlefs they make a particular application to the committee, and then they obtain them ; but they are taken back to their places in the tvcninj, and brought again in the morning. Thofe who come to fee the curiosities, are to give in their names to theporrer, who enters them in- a book, which is given to the principal librarian, who ftrikes them off, and orders the tickets to be given in the following manner: In May, June, July, and Auguft, forty-five are ad*nitted on Tuefday, Wednefday, and Thurfday, viz. fifteen at nine in the forenoon, fifteen at eleven, and fifteen at one in the afternoon. On Monday and Friday fifteen are ad- mitted at four in the afternoon, and fifteen at fix. The othej. eight raontht in the year forty-five are admitted, in three different companies, on Monday, Tcefday, Wedncfday, TJhiufds /, and r>nay, at nine, eleven, MM) one o'clock. iracfe LONDON, ig. made by Sir Robert and Sir John Cotton ; and large fums have fince been voted to augment this noble repository. His late Majefty prefented to it the libraries of the Kings of England, from the reign of Henry VII ; and his prefent Majefty, an interefting collection of the tracts publifhed in the reigns of Charles I and II. Antiquities brought from Italy were purchafedby Parliament, for 8,410!. in 1762 : and many benefactions have augmented the library, parti- iarly thofe of the late eccentric Edward Wortley Montague, and of our philofophical Envoy at Naples, Sir William Hamilton, K. B. The late Rev. Dr. Gifford, one of the librarians, alfo made this public foundation a prefent of a fine fet of paintings by Vandyck, preferved in the greateft perfection ; and one copy of every book entered in the hall of the Company of Stationers is always fent here. This Mufeum is under the direction of forty-two Truftees, twenty-one of whom are appointed to aft in confequence of their being great officers offtate. Two are chofen as defcendants of the Cottons, two for Sloane's collection, and two for theHarleian manufcripts, befide fifteen elected by the others. A committee of three at leaft is held every other Friday, and a general meeting once a quarter. The LEVERIAN MUSEUM is fituated in Great Surry Street, on the fouth fide of Blackfriars Bridge. This mag- nificent and Inftructive Mufeum was collected bv the late Sir Aftiton Lever, and contains the moft aftoni filing col- lection of fpecimens in every branch of natural hiftory that had ever been formed by an individual. Sir Afhton having obtained an act of parliament, empowering him to difpofe of this Mufeum by a lottery, to confift 0^36,000 tickets, at a guinea each, found fo little avidity in the public to adventure, that he had fold no more than. 8,000 tickets , when the appointed time of drawing arrived ; the event of \vhich proved very unfortunate to. him, for this invalua- ble treafure was transferred .to the pofleflbr of two tickets only, James Parkinfon Efq. who, by his elegant difpofition of the Mufeum in the prefent building, erected, on pur- pofe for its reception, appears to have well merited his good fortune. Another MUSEUM, confifting of anatomical preparations, and natural curiofities, collected by the late Dr. William Hunter^ 20 LONDON, Hunter, who built a fpacious edifice for their receptron r in Windmill Street, Haymarket, is now open to the pub- lic, and is to continue fo for thirty years from the time of his death in 1783. In a large volume, devoted folely to the Metropolis, we might have given a minute defcription of the Inns of- Court, the Colleges, the Societies of Artilts and Learned Men, the Public Schools, the Places of Diverfion, the Public Halls, Hofpitals, and Prifons; but as the prin- cipal defign of this Work is to ferve as a companion to- the reader, in his excurfions into the country round Lon- don, our limits will not permit us to be more copious : and we (hall, therefore, mention the principal remaining, objecls in the Metropolis in a very curfory way. Of the Inns of Court, or Societies for the Study of the Law, the principal are. the Middle and Inner TempJes, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Tnn. Thefe are very fpacious, and have large gardens, which, at certain times of the day, are open to the public. The others are Clifford's Inn, Clement's Inn, Serjeants' Inn, New Inn, Lyon's Inn, Bar- nard's Inn, Furnival's Inn, and Staples' Inn. The College of Phyficians, unfortunately hidden in War- wick Lane, was built by Sir Chriftopher Wren. On- the top of the dome is a gilt ball, and on the fummit of the' centre is the cock, the bird of yEfculapius. Grefham College, erefted in 1551, by Sir Thomas Grefham, for- feven Profeflbrs in divinity, civil law, aftronomy, geometry, rhetoric, phyfic, and mufic, flood on the fite of the prefent Excife Office: but, in 1768, the reading of the lectures was removed to a room over the Royal Exchange, and the Profefibrs were allowed an additional 50!. a year, in lieu of their apartments in the College. Thefe profeflbrfhips are now mere finecures. Sion College, near London Wall, was founded, in 1603, by the Rev. Thomas White. It is governed by a Prefident, two Deans, and four Afliftants; and all the Clergy within the bills of mortality are its Fel- lows. Here is a large library for their ufe, .and almfhoufes for ten men and ten women. The Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and the Royal. Academy of Artifls, have noble apartments in Somerfet Place. The Society for the Encouragement of Arts,. Manufactures, LONDON. 21 Manufactures, and Commerce, have a handfome houfe in the Adelphi; in the great room of which is a fine feries of paintings by Mr. Barry. Of the Public Seminaries, the mod diftinguifhed are Weftmi niter School, adjoining the Abbey, and, though not originally founded, yet nobly endowed by Queen Eliza- beth ; St. Paul's School, founded, in the beginning of the 1 6th century, by Dean Colet ; the Charter Houfe, founded, about the fame time, both for a fchool and hofpital, by Thomas Sutton, fq. and a School, in Suffolk Lane, Up- per Thames Street, founded, in 1561, by the company of Merchant Taylors. With refpecl to the Places of Diverfion, the Opera Houfes have besn remarkably unfortunate : that in the Hay- market, called the King's Theatre, having been deftroyed by fire, on the ijth of June 1789 ; and the Pantheon, in Oxford Street, the moft magnificent ftruchire of the kind in Europe, which had been fitted up for the performance of Operas, having met u-ith a fimilar fate, on the i4th of Ja- nuary 1793. Both, however, have been fince rebuilt ; as have the two Theatres Royal in Covent Garden and Drury Lane. For the dramatic entertainments in Summer, is a fmafl Theatre Royal in the Hay-market, Sadler's Wells, near Iflington, for pantomimes and rope-dancing ; Aftley's Amphitheatre, near Weftminfter Bridge (burnt down, Aug. 24, 1794, but rebuilt) and the Royal Circus, in St. George's Fields, both for equeftrian exercifes, and other amufements, meet with confiderable fuccefs. For the higher ranks of life, are many noble rooms for conceits ; as in Hanover Square ; the Freemafon's Tavern in Great Queen Street, Lincoln's-Inn Fields ; and the Crown and Anchor Tavern in the Strand. Ranelagh and Vauxhall are defcribed in the following Tour. Of the Public Halls, the moft diftinguifhed, in point of architecture, are Surgeon.,' Hall in the Old Bailey; Gold- fmiths' Hal], Fofter-Lane ; Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street; and Fifhimngers' Hall, near London Bridge. We mention Stationers' Hall, in Ludgate Street, and Apotheca- ries' Hall, near Bridge Street, BJackfriars, becaufe, in the former, a great trade is carried on ip almanacks and fchool- 22 LONDON. books ; and, in the latter, great quantities of chemical and galenical preparations are vended, although no pre- fcriptions are made up. The principal hofpitals are Chrift's Hofpital, near New- gate Street, a royal foundation, for orphans and poor children ; St. Bartholomexv's Hofpital, Weft Smithfield, another royal foundation for the fick and lame ; Bride- well, in New Bridge Street, Blackfrbrs, once a royal palace, but now a royal hofpital, for the apprenticing of the induf- trious youth, and a prifon for the diflblute ; Bethlem, in Moorfie!ds, another royal hofpital, for lunatics; St. Luke's in Old Street Road, alfo for lunatics ; St. Thomas's, in the Borough, the fourth royal hofpital, for the fick and lame; and for the fame purpofe are Guy's Hofpital, adjoining j the London Hofpital, in Whitechapcl Road ; the Middle- fex Hofpital, near Berners Street ; the Weftminfter Infir- mary, neai^_Petty France"]) and St. George's Hofpital, HyJe Park Corner. TnTToundling Hofpital, in Lamb's Conduit Fields ; the Afylum, at Lambeth, for orphan girls; the Magdalen Hofpital, in St George's Fields, for penitent proftitutes ; the Marine Society, in Bifliopfgate Street; the Small Pox Hofpital, at Pancras; the Weft- minfter Lying-in Hofpital, and many others for the fame purpofe, are alfo excellent inftitutions. A great number of Difpenfaries, for the relief of the poor, have been lately ef- tablifhed, by voluntary contributions, for difpenfing medi- cines to the fick, who keep to their houfes, under the direc- tion of a Phyfician to each difpenfary, and proper ailiftants. Of Prifons there are a melancholy number : the princi- pal are Newgate, a ftupendous ftruaure ; the New Coinp- ter, in Giltfpur-Street ; the Fleet Prifon, for Debtors ; the King's Bench, in St. George's Fields, for the fame purpofe, and for the prifoners of the court ; the Penitentiary Houfc, in Cold Bath Fields; and a new County Gaol and Seffions Houfe for Surry, ** Newington Butts. Some of the Squares and Streets in the Metropolis are magnificent ; and many of thofe which cannot, boaft of grandeur .are long, fpacious, and airy. The principal Squares are Bedford Square, Berkeley Square, Bloomfbury Square, Cavendilh Square, Finlbur'y Square, LONDON. 23 Square, Fitzroy Square, Golden Square, Grofvenor Square, Hanover Square, Leicefter Square, Lincoln's Inn Fields, Manchefter Square, Portman Square, Queen's Square Bloomlbury, Red Lion Square, St. James's Square, Soho Square, &c. Portland\Place forms, perhaps, the moft mag- nificent ftreet in the world ; Stratford Place is truly ele- gant ; and the Adelphi Terrace, .to whatever criticifm it may be liable in point of architecture, is the admiration of foreigners for the noble view which it affords of the River, the bridges and other public buildings, and of the fine hills beyond Southwark and Lambeth. Such, on a very curfory view of it, is the Metropolis of Great Britain ; to the extent, opulence, and fplendour of which many caufes have contributed. Thefe we can- not better enumerate than in the words of Dr. Aikin. " The broad ftream of the Thames," fays that ingenious writer, " flowing between London and Southwark, continu- ally agitated by a brifk current, or a rapid tide, brings con- ftant fupplies of frefh air, which no buildings can inter- cept. The country round, efpecially on the London fide, is nearly open re fome diftance, whence, by the aftion of the fun and wind -en a gravelly foil, it is kept tolerably dry in all feafons, and affords no lodgment for ftagnant air or water. The cleanlinefs of London, as well as its fupply of water, are greatly aided by its fituation on the banks of the Thames ; and the New River, together with many good fprings within, the city itfelf, further contributes to the . abundance of that necefiary element. All thefeare advan- tages with refpeft to health, in which this metropolis is exceeded by few. " Its fituation with regard to the circumftance of navi- gation is equally well chofen : had it been placed lower on the Thames, hefide being annoyed by the marflies, it would have been more liable to infults from foreign foes ; had it been higher, it would not have been accefiible, as at prefent, to fhips of large burden. It now poflefTes every advantage that can be derived from a feaport, without its dangers ; and, at the fame time, by means of its noble river, enjoys a very extenfive communication with the internal parts of the country, which fupply it with all forts of neceflaries, and 24 LONDON. and in return receive from it fuch commodities as they re- uire. With the great articleof fuel, London is plenti- Uy lupplied by fea from the/northern collieries^ and (a is circumftance the nation 'is indebted for a great nurfery of feamen, not depending upon foreign commerce ; which Ts a principal fource of its naval fuperiority. Corn and va- rious other articles are with equal eafe conveyed to it from all the maritime parts of the kingdom, and great numbers of coafting veflcls are continually employed for this pur- pofe. " London, therefore, unites in Jtfelf all the benefits, arifing from navigation and commerce, with thofe of a me- tropolis at which all the public bufinefs of a great nation is tranfacted ; and is at the fame time the mercantile and political head of thefe kingdoms. It is alfo the feat of many confiderable manufactures ; fome almoft peculiar to itfelf, as miniftering to demands of ftudied fplendour and refined luxury ; others in which it participates with the manufacturing towns in general, with this difference, that only the finer and more coflly of their works are per- formed here. The moft important of its peculiar manu- factures is the filk weaving, eflablifhed in Spitalfields by refugees from France. A variety of works in gold, filver, and jewellery; the engraving of prints ; the mak- ing of optical and mathematical inftruments, are likewife principally or folely executed here, and fome of them in greater perfection than in any other country. The porter- brewery, a bufinefs of very great extent, is alib chiefly carried on in London. To its port are likewife confined fome branches of foreign commerce, as the vaft Eaft India trade, and thofe to Turkey and Hudfon's Bay. ' Thus London has ri(en to its prefent rank of the firft city -in Europe with refpect to opulence; and nearly, if not entirely fo, as to the number of inhabitants. Paris and Conftantinople may difpute the latter with it. Its popu- lation, like that of all other towns, has been greatly over- rated, and is not yet exactly determined ; but it is probable that the refidents in London, Weftmtnfter, Southwark, and all the out parifhes, fall fliort of 600,000." AMBULATOR; OR, A TOUR ROUND LONDON. {j^ The Diftinces on the Kent Roads are computed from London Bridge} the Croydon, Reigate, and Epfom Roads from Weftminfter Bridge; the Kingfton Road from the Stone's End in the Borough; the Brentford Road from Hyde Park Corner ; the Ujtbridge and Edgware Roads from Tyburn Turnpike ; the Barnet Road from where Hickes Hall flood in St. John Street; the Ware Road from Shoreditch Church; aYid the flex Road from Whitechapel Church. ABBOT'S LANGLEY, a village in Herts, fourittiles from St. Alban's, famous for being the birthplace of Nicholas Breakfpeare, the only Englifhman that obtained the papal dignity. Such was the unbounded pride of this pontiff, who aflumed the name of Adrian IV, that, when the Emperor, Frederic I, went to Rome, in 1155, to re- ceive the imperial diadem, the Pope infilled that he fhould proftrate himfelf, kifs his feet, hold his ftirrup, and lead the white palfrey on which he rode. Frederic did not fubmit to this without reluctance; and, as he took hold of the wrong ftirrup, he obferved, that " he had not yet been taught the profeffion of a groom." On a fubfequent dif- pute, this Pope wrote a letter to the degraded Monarch, which difplays the deteftable pretenfions of the court of Rome, in thofe gloomy ages : " Whatever you have as Emperor, you have from us; for, as Pope Zachariastranf- Jerred the Empire from the Greeks to the Germans, fo can D we 26 ACTON. we transfer it from the Germans to the Greeks. It is ih our power to beftow it upon whom we will. Befides, we are appointed by God to rule over kingdoms and nations, that we may deftroy, pluck up, build, plant, &c." Yet did this haughty Pope leave his mother to be maintained by the alms of the church of Canterbury. Langley Bury, near this village, was built by Lord Chief Juftice Raymond, who be- queathed it to Sir John Filmer, Bart. It is the refidence of Mr. Baron Hotham. See Cecil Lodge. ACTON, a village, five miles from London, on the road to Uxbrklge. The parilh is fuppofed to derive its name from the quantity of oak timber it produced ; ac, in the Saxon language, fignifying an oak; and the hedge-rows Hill abound with that tree. Half a mile from Eaft Adon, are three wells of mineral water, which, about the middle of the prefent century, were in great repute for their medi- cinal virtues. The aflembly-room was then a place of very fafliionable refort ; and the neighbouring hamlets of Eait Aclon and Friar's Place were filled with perfons of all ranks, who came to refide there during the fummer feafon. Thefe wells have long ago loft their celebrity, fafhion and novelty having given the preference to fprings of the fame nature, at a greater diftance from the metropolis. The fite of the wells is the property of the Duke of Devonfhire; and the aflembly-room, being nearly in ruins, is about to be converted into two tenements. At Aclon refided Fran- cis Lord Rous, one of Cromwell's Peers; and, on the fite of his houfe, now ftands a modern manfion, called the Bank Houfe, the property of Samuel Wegg, Efq. Richard Baxter, the celebrated nonconformift e ruJe barbarity of courts, With fiim but pliant virtue, forward ftill To u: e e niscouife: him for the ftudious fhade Kiad YUiue form'd; deep, compnbcnfiw, ckar. jfo ST. ALBAN'S. F.xac"r, and elegant; in one rich foul, Plato, the Stugyrite, and Tully join'd. The great deliverer he ! who, from the gloom Ofdoifter'd monks, and jargon-teaching fchools^ Led forth the true Philofopliy, there long Held in the magic chain of words and forms, And definitions void : he led her forth, Daughter of Heaven ! that, flow-afcending ftill, Inveftigating fure, the chain of chings, With radiant finger points to Heaven agaiu. THOMSON. In the centre of St. Alban's flood one of the magnificent crofles, erected by Edward I, in honour of his Queen Elea- nor. A building was erected in its ftead, in 1 703, which retains the name of " The Crofs." On the river is a curious mill, erected for the purpofe of polifhing diamonds, but now employed in the cotton ma- nufactory of MefJrs. Gill and Maxey. On its banks alfo is Holywell Houfe, the feat of Countefs Dowager Spencer,, built by Sarah Duchefs of Marlborough, who here found- ed nine almfhoufes for thirty-fix perfons. In Holywell Houfe is prtferved the portrait of the Duchefs, in white, cxquilitely handfome. " In this," obferves Mr. Pennant, " are not the leaft veftiges of her diabolical paffions, the torments of her Queen, her hufband, and herfelf." On sfcending into the town, up Fifhpool Street, is a bottom on the right, which was once a great pool. The Saxon Princes are fuppofed to have taken great pleafure in navigating on this piece of water. Anchors have been found on the fpot ; which occafioned poets to fable that the Thames once ran this way. Drayton, addreffing the river Ver, fays : Thou faw'ft great burdened fliips through thefe thy vallies pafs, Where now the fharp-edged fithe (hears up thy fprinjging grafs j And where the feal and porpoife u'd to play, The grafshopper and ant now lord it all the day. Near the town is a Romaa fortification, fuppofed to have been the camp of Oftorius, the Propraetor: the common people call it " The Oyfter Hills." But Mr. Pennant, who calls this lury or mount, Ofterhill, conjectures it to have been the fite of the Saxon palace at Kinglbury. St, Alban's A N E 31 St. Alban's is famous for the victory obtained in 145$, over Henry VI, by Richard Duke of York; the firft battle fought in that famous quarrel, which lafted thirty years, and is computed to have coft the lives of eighty princes of the blood, and to have annihilated, almoft entirely, the an- cient nobility of England. In 1461, a fecond battle was fought here, in which Queen Margaret defeated the great Earl of Warwick. ALBINS, in the parifh of Stapleford Abbot, in Eflex, 16 miles from London, the feat of the Rev. Thomas Abdy Abdy, isafcribed to Inigo Jones: "but," fays Mr. Wai- pole, " if he had any hand in it, it muft have been during his firft profeffion, and before he had feen any good build- ings." The houfe is handfome, has large rooms and rich/ ceilings, but all entirely of the King James's Gothic." ALBURY HOUSE, in the parifh of Chefhunt, the feat of John RufTell, Efq. part of whofe garden is inelofed by a fragment of the wall which furrounded Theobalds Park. AM WELL, a village near Ware, 2 1 miles from Lon- don, famous for giving rife to the New River, which, pro- ceeding in a direcl courfe by the church, receives a fpring which flows with great abundance. In this village are Amwell Bury, the villa of F. Franco, Efq. and the houfe and gardens of Mrs. Wood. Thefe gardens were laid out by the late Mr. Scott, who has rendered the village intereft- ing to the fentimental traveller, by a beautiful poem called " Amwell." In the churchyard, is the following curious epitaph : That which a Being -was, what is it ? /how : That Being which it was, it is not now. To be what 'tis, is not to be, you fee : That which now is not, (hull a Being b. ANKERWYKE HOUSE, the feat of Simon Harcourt, Efq. is fituated in the parifh of Wrayfbury, Bucks, on the fide of the Thames oppofite Runny Mead. It was former- ly a Benedii this is a colonnade, confifting of fix columns and two'pi- E 2 lafters, 40 B E I) lafters, which are raifed from four pedeftals, two ftinfft fpringing out of each bafe. Thefe are from the dofign of Mr. Emlyn, according to his new; order of architecture. Under the colonnade, and even with the firft floor, is a light and elegant balcony, commanding a very pleafing view of the Thames and of the adjacent country. BECKENHAM, a village near Bromley, in Kent. Here isLangley, the feat of Sir Peter Burrcll, Bart, and Becken- ham Place, belonging to John Cator, Efq. At Beckenham alfo is the refidence of Lord Auckland. BEDDINGTON, a village, two miles Weft of Croydon. Here is the feat of the ancient family of Carew, which de- fcending to Richard Gee, Efq. of Orpington, in Kent, that fentleman, in 1780, took the name and arms of Carew. t was forfeited, in 1539, on the attainder and execution of Sir Nicholas Carew, for a confpiracy. His ion, Sir Fran- cis, having procured the reverfal of the attainder, purchafed this eftate of Lord Darcy, to whom it had been granted by Edward VI. He rebuilt the manfion-houfe, and planted the gardens with choice fruit trees, in the cultivation of which he took great delight*. The .Park is ftili famous for * Sir Francis fpared no expence In procuring them from foreign coun- tries. The firft orange trees feen in England are faid to have been plant- ed by him. Aubrey fays, they were brought from Italy by Sir Francis Carew. But the editors of the Biographia, fpeaking from a tradition pre- ferved in the family, tell us, they were raifed by Sir Francis Carew from 1 the feeds of the firll oranges which were imported into England by Sir Walter Raleigh, who had married his niece, the daughter of Sir Nicholas Throckmorton. The trees were planted in the open ground, and were prefervedin the winter by a moveahle flied. They fiourifhed for about a century and a half, baing deftroyed by the hard froft in 1739 4- I the garden was a p'eafure-hGufc, on the top of which was painted the Spaj'.ifh Invafion. In Auguft 1599, Queen Elizabeth pud a vifit to Sir Francis Carew, at Be.lding^on, tor three days, and again in the fame month, the enfuing yea;'. The Queen's oA, and hir f ivourite walk, are ftjll pointed out. Sir Hugh Flatt tells an anecdote, in his Garden of Eden, relating to one of thefe vifits, which fhews the pains Sir Francis took in the management and cultivation of his fruit trees: "Here! \villconclude," fays he, "with a conceit .of that delicate .Knight, Sir Francis Carew, who, for the better accomplilhnu-nt of his > royal enter- tainment of our late Qoeen Elizabeth, of happy memory, at his houfe at Bcdriirfl'on, led hcrmaj^fty to a cherry-tree, whofe fruit he had of purpofe Jitpt back from ripening, at the ltft oac month, after all other cherries had. S E L 41 for walnut-trees. The mauor-houfe, fituate near the church, is built of brick, and occupies three iides of a fquare. It was rebuilt in its prefent form in 1 709. The great door of the hall has a curious ancient lock, richly wrought: a fhield with the arms of England, moving in a groove, conceals the key-hole. In the aides of the church are feveral ftalls, after the manner of cathedrals. See Wal- ling 'ton. BEECHWOOD, near St. Alban% the feat of Sir Joha Ser'ight, Baronet. LiELFONT, a village, 13 miles from London, on the road to Staines. In the churchyard, two yew trees unite to form an arch over the footpath, and exhibit, in fombre verdure, the date of the year 1 704. BELLHOUSE, the feat of the Dowager Lady Dacre, at Aveley, in Eflex, zo miles from London, in the road to Tilbury, is fituated in a well-wooded park, and was built in the reign of Henry VIII. The late Lord much im- proved this noble manfion; and to his (kill in architecture, Bellhoufe owes the elegant neatnefs of its decorations, from, defigns made by himfelf, and executed under his own iu- fpedion. BELLHOUSE, the feat of the Hon. George Petre, at Hare Street, 18 miles from London, in the road to Chip- ping Ongar. BELLMONT, an elegant villa and park, in the parifh of Great Stanmore; occupied, at prefent, by John Drum- mond, Efq. during the minority of his .nephew. BELVEDERE HOUSE, the feat of Lord Eardky, is fituated on the brow of a hill, near Erith, in Kent, and commands a vaft extent of country beyond the Thames, which is a mile and a half diftant. The river adds greatly to the beauty of the fcene, which exhibits a very pleafmg landfcape. The fhipp employed in the trade of London had take i their farewell of Enghnd. This fecret he performed, hy itrain- iiig a tent, or cuver-of canvafs, oxer the whoie tree, and wetting the fame now anl then with a fcoop or horn, as the heal of the weather required; and fo, by withholding the fun beams from reflecting upon the berries, they grew both great, and were very long before they had gotten their pcrfeft cherry colour; and, when he .was allured of her Majcfty's coniinjr, he removed the tent, and a few funny days brought thera to their full maturity ." Ljfcni' Environs if Lor/dor, Vd, /. Page 56. E 3 are 42 BEN are feen failing up and down. On the other fide are prof- pefts not lefs beautiful, though of another kind. His lord- fliip has very judicioufly laid out his grounds. The old houfe was hut fmall; he, therefore, built a noble manfion, and the only apartment left of the former is an elegant drawing-room, built by his father. The colledion of pic- tures contains many capital productions of the greateft matters. The following is a catalogue of them: View of Venice, and ditto with the Doge marrying the Sea, its companion, Canaletti ; Time bringing Truth to Light, a (ketch, Rubens; the Alchemift, Teniers ; Portrait of Sir John Gage, Holbein ; a Landfcape, G. Pouflin ; Battle of the Amazons, Rottenhamer ; the Unjuft Steward, Quintin, Matfys;' Noah's Ark, Velvet Brughel ; St. Catjjsif ine, Leonardo da Vinci ; Van Tromp^ Francis Hals; Vfefcan, or the Element of Fire, BalTan ; Horfcs, its companion, \Vbuvermans; two Infides of Churches, final!, De Neef ; a Dutch Woman and her three Children, More ; Rem- brandt painting an Old Woman, by himfelf ; a Courtezan and her Gallant, Giorgione ; the Golden Age, Velvet Brughel ; Snyders, with his Wife and Child, Rubens; Re- becca bringing Prefents to Laban, De la Hyre ; Boors at Cards, Teniers ; the Element of Earth, Jai. Baflan ; Mar- riage in Cana, P. Veronefe ; two Landfcapes, G. Pouflin ; the Genealogy of Chrift, Albert Durer ; Beggar Boys at Cards, S. Rofa ; Herod confulting the Wife Men, Rem- brandt ; Marriage of St. Catherine, Old Palma ; the Con- ception, for an altar-piece, Murillo ; the Flight into Egypt, its companion, Ditto ; Vulcan, Venus, Cupid, and fundry figures, an emblematic fubjecl, Tintoret ; Mars and Venus, P. Veronefe ; Chrift among the Doctors, L. Giordano ; Duke of Buckingham's Miftrefs, her three children, and a Son of Rubens, by himfelf ; a Landfcape, Lorrain; Leo- pold's Gallery, Teniers ; Teniers' own Gallery, Ditto. BENTLEY PRIORY, the magnificent feat of the Mar- quis of Abercorn, fituate on the fummit of Stanmore Hill, but in the parifh of Harrow. The file of it is fuppofed to be that of an ancient priory, which, at the diflbhuion, was converted into a private houfe. The houfe, which com- mands extenfive views, was built from the defigns of Mr. Soame, by Mr. James Du-berly. Of him it was purchafed, in BET 43 in 1788, by the Marquis of Abercorrij who has made very large additions to it, and converted it into a noble iiianfion. It is furhifhed with a valuable collection of pictures by old mafters, and a few antique bufts : that of Marcus Aurelius is much admired by the connoifTeurs. The dining room is 40 feet by 30 ; the falcon and mufic-room are each 50 feet by 30. In the latter are feveral portraits of the Ha- milton family. In the falcon is the celebrated pidlure of St. Jerome's Dream, by Parmegiano. The beautiful plan- tations contain 200 acres. EE-RTIE PLACE, near Chiflehurft, in Kent, an ancient manfion, long in the pofleffion of the family of Farrington. Thomas Farrington, Efq. bequeathed it to his nephew, the late Lord Robert Bertie, who greatly improved the houfe ,-md grounds. It is now the refidence of the Right Hon. Charles Townfliend. BETCHWORTH, a village in Surry, between Darking and Reigate, with a caftle of the fame name, the feat of the late Mifs Judith Tucker. A mile from this is Tranquil Dale, the elegant villa of Mr. Petty. The fituation of this charming place feems perfectly correfpondent to its appellation ; confecrated, as it were, more particularly, to the lover of rural quiet and contemplation, Who, when young Spring protrudes the burftlng gems, Marks the firrt bud, and fucks the healthful gale, Into his frefhen'd foul ; her genial hours He fall enjoys; and not a beauty blows, And not an opening blofibm breathes in vain. THOMSON. BETHNAL GREEN, once a hamlet of Stepney, from which it was feparated, in 1 743, and formed into a diftinct parifh, by the name of St. Matthew, Bethnal Green. It h iituated N. W. of the metropolis, extends over a confide- rable part of the fuburbs, and contains about 490 acres of land, not built upon. The well-known ballad of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green was written in the reign of Elizabeth : the legend is told of the reign of Henry III ; and Henry de Montfort, (fonof the Earl of Leicefter) who was fuppofed to have fallen at the battle of Evefham, is the hero*. Though it is probable, that the author might have * Percy's Relives of Ancient Poetry, Vol, II. p. i6z. fixed 44 B L A .fixed upon any other fpot, with equal propriety, for the re- lidence of his beggar, the (lory, neverthelefs, leems to have gained much credit in the village, where it decorates not only the fignpofts of the publicans, but the ftaffof the pa- riah beadle ; and Ib convinced are fome of the inhabitants, that they fhevv an ancient hovtfe on the Green as the pa- lace of the blind beggar*. BEXLEY, a village, 12 miles from London, to the right of the Dover Road. Bexley Manor was in the pofleffion of the celebrated Camden, who bequeathed it for the en- dowing of a profeflbrfhip of Hiftory at Oxford. In this parifh is Hall-Place, the refidence of Richard Calvert, Efq. .See Danfon Hill. BILLERICAY, a market-town in Eflex, 23 miles from London. It is feated on a fine eminence, in the road from Chelmsford to Tilbury Fort, and commands a beautiful profpeft of the Kentifh hills, with a rich valley, and the river Thames, intervening. It has an ancient chapel ; but the mother church is at Great Burfted. BLACKHEATH, a fine elevated heath, in the pariflies of Greenwich, Lewifham, and Lee, five miles from Lon- don. It commands fome noble profpe&s: particularly from that part called '* The Point," which is a delightful lawn, fituated behind a pleafant grove, at the weft end of Chocolate Row. On this heath are the villas of Richard Hulfe, Efq. the Duke of Bucclengh, Mr. Latham, the Earl of Dartmouth, and Capt. Larkin. But the greateft orna- ment of Blackheath, was the magnificent feat of Sir Gre- gory Page. It confided of a centre, united to two wings by a colonnade ; and was adorned with maftei ly paintings, rich hangings, marbles, and alto-relievos. But how un- ilable is human grandeur! Sir Gregory died in 1775, and left this feat to his nephew, Sir Gregory Turner, who took the name and arms of Page. Sir Gregory Page Turner difpofed of the noble collection of paintings by auction ; and, by virtue of an Acl of Parliament, the houfe and grounds were fold by auction to John Cator, Efq. for * This old manfion, now called Bethnal Green houfe, was built in the reign of Elizabeth, by Mr. Kirby, a citizen of London, and is ftill cillcd in the writings, Kirby Caftle. it is now the property of James Stratton, fSturt, and was pur- chafed, in 1792, for 8,5000!. by the Margrave of Anfpach, who having abdicated his dominions, in favour of the King of Pruffia, receives from that Monarch, a princely revenue. His ferene highnefs married Elizabeth Dowager Lady Craven, and fifter of the Earl of Berkeley. The Margravine's tafte as confpicuous in the improvements and decorations of the houfe, which are both elegant and mag- nificent. The ftate drawing-room, which is 38 feet by 23, and 30 feet in height, is fitted up with white latin, and has a broad border of Pruflian blue in a gilt frame. At the upper end is a chair of ftate, over which is placed a pic- ture of the late Frederic, King of Pruflia, the Margrave's uncle; the whole covered with a canopy, which is decorat- ed with a very elegant and rich cornice. The ceiling of this room was painted for Lord Melcombe, by whom alfo the very coftly chirnneypiece, reprefenting, in white mar- ble, the marriage of the Thames and Ifis, was put up. The antichamber contains feveral good pictures, and fome very beautiful pieces of needle-work, being copies of paint- ings by the old matters, wrought in worfteds, by the Mar- gravine herfelf, in which the fpirit and character of the originals are admirably preferved. Under the cornice of this room hangs a deep border of point lace, with which the curtains aie alfo decorated. The gallery, which is 30. feet high, zo in width, and 82 in length, remains in the fame ftate as left by Lord Melcombe, except that the mar- ble pavement is removed, and the ftaircafe, where the co* F himns Jumns flood, in the room of the latter, is a chimneypiece. The ceiling of the gallery is of mofaic-work, ornamented with rofes. Two new ftaircafes of ftone have been built, ami a chapel has been made on the fite of the old ftaircafe, the walls of which were painted with fcripture fubjeds. In the hall, on the ground floor, are the following verfes, writ- ten by Lord Melcombe, and placed under a bufbof Comus: While rofy wreaths the goblet deck, Thus Comus fpalce, or feem'd to fpeak: ' This place, for focial hours defign'd, ' May care and bufinefs never find. " Come every mufe without reftraint, " Let genius prompt, and fancy paint: " Let mirth and wit, with friendly ft rife-, " Chafe the dull gloom that faddens life: " True wit, that firm to virtue's caufe, " Refpefts religion and the laws ; " True mirth, that chearfulncfs fupplics, " To modeft ea i- s and decent eyes ; Let thcfe indulge their li velitft fillies, . " Both fcorn the canker'd help of malicej *' True to their country and their friend, " Both fcorn to flatter or offend." Adjoining to the hall is a library, which opens into the -ronfervatory ; and, on the oppofite fide, is a writing-cloTet, where are fome good cabinet pictures, particularly a fine he-ill, by Fragonard. Ncrr the water-fide i-s a fmall theatre^ where the Mar- gravine occafionally entertains her friends with dramatic exhibitions, and fometimes gratifies them by exerting her talents, both as a writer and performer, for their amu fo- ment. This theatre is connected with the dweliing-houie, by a confrrvatory of 150 feet in length. It is of a curvi- linear form, and occupies the fite of a colonnade. See Blackbeath. BRASTEAD PLACE, between Sevenoaks and Wef- urham, in Kent, the elegant villa of Dr. Tuvton. BRAY, a village in Berks, on the Thames, between Maidenhead and Windfor, is noted in a famous fong, for its Vicar, who, according to Fuller, changed his religion four times, in the reigns of Henry VIII and his three fnc- cefl(>rs ; B R O 1 ceflbrs; keeping to one principle only, that of living and dying Vicar of Bray. Here is an hofpital founded in 1627, by William God- dard, Efq. for 40 poor perfons, who are each allowed ia houfe, and eight {hillings a month. At Braywick, are the feats of Mr. Slack, Mr. Pepys, and Major Law. See Can- non Hall. BRENTFORD, a market-town in Middlefex, . feven miles from London, has itsjiame from a. brook, called the Brent, which rifes in the parifh of Hendon, and here flows into the Thames. In this town the freeholders of Mid- dlefex aflemble to choofe their reprefentatives. That part of the town, called Old Brentford, is fituated in the parifli of Great Haling, and is oppofite Kew-Green. New Brent- ford is fituated partly in the parifli of Hanwell, and -forms partly a parifh of its own name, which contains not more than 200 acres. The chapel of Brentford, which (the tower excepted) was rebuilt in 1764, is fituated in the cen- tre of the town, and is an appendage to the church of Han- well. Here, in 1016, King Edmund Ironfide defeated the Danes with great {laughter; and here, in 1643, Charles I. defeated fome regiments of the Parliamentarians. For his fer vices in this engagement, he created Ratriek Ru- then, (Earl of Forth in Scotland) in feparate lots, and produced, after deducting the expences of fale, i i,oool. The marble ftaircafe was purchafed by the Earl of Chef- terfield, for his houfe in May Fair; the fine columns were bought for the portico in Wanfted Houfe; and the equef- trian ftatue of George I, one of the numerous fculptures that adorned the grounds, is now the ornament of Leicef- ter Square. One of the principal Jots was purchafed by IVlr. Hallett, a cabinet-maker in Long Acre, who having likewife purchafed the eftate at Canons, erected on the fite the prefent villa, with the materials that compofed his lot*. William Hallett, Efq. hisgrandfon, fold this eftate, in 1 786, to Mr. O'Kelly, a fuccefsful adventurer on the turf, who left it to his nephew. Mr. Walpole mentions the fale of this place to a cabinet-maker, as a mockery of fublunary grandeur. He might now extend his reflections, by ob- ferving, that Mr. Haliett has lately purchafed the Dunch eftate at Wittenham in Berks, which had been more than 200 years in that ancient family. He has likewife bought the eftate at Farringdon, in Berks, of Henry James Pye, Efq. late M. P. for that county, and now Poet Laureat, den, not wanted for his table, was fold on his account. " It is as much: my property," he would fay, '* as the corn and hay, and other produce of my fields." An aged man, who had been the Duke's fervanr, artd now appeared " the fad hiftorian of the penfivc fcene," informed the wiiter of this note, that, in his occafional bounties to his labourers, the Puke wouU never exceed fixpence each. " This," he would oblerve, " may do you gcod.; more may make you idle and drunk." * The two porters' lodges remain; and it has been obferved, in fome accounts of Canons, that they were built upon fo Urge a fcale, as to be each the refidence of aljarone-t, They are two (lories high, with fix rooms on a floor, and one of them was certainly the refidence of>Sir Hugh Dal- rymple, Bart. Mr. Haiktt, it muft be obferved} had raifed them a ftory higher, that he might fit them up for gentlemen ; but neither their fitiu- tion nor appearance, at prefent, befpeak. the habitations of opulent genti- lity. G whofe 6z c As whofe family were in pofleffion of it more than two cen- turies. Thus ancient families become extin6l, or fall to decay ; aud trade, and the viciflitudes of life, have thrown into the hands of one man, a property which once fup- ported two families, of great refpeaability and great influ- -ence in their county. See Whitcburcb. CANT'S HILL, the feat of Sir John Lade, Bart, at Burnham, a little to the N. W. of Britwell Houfe. Mrs. Hodges, the laft pofleffor, greatly improved it, which, with the additions made by Sir John, has rendered it a very de- firable villa. CARSHALTON, a village in Surry, nine miles from London, fituate among innumerable fprings, which form a river in the centre of the town, and joining other ftreams from Croydon and Beddington, form the river Wandle. On the banks of this river are eftablifhed feveral manufac- tories; the principal of which are the two paper mills of Mr. Curtis and Mr. Patch ; Mr. Savignac's mills for pre- paring leather and parchment; Mr. Filby's for grinding logwood; Mr. Shipley's oil mills; Mr. Anfell'sfnuff mills; and the bleaching-grounds of Mr. Reynolds and Mr. Cook- fon. Here Dr. Ratcliffe built a houfe, which afterward belonged to :5ir John Fellowes, who added gardens and curious water-works. It is now the feat of John Hodfdon Durand, Efq. who has another capital manfion in the neighbourhood. Here alfo is the feat of the Scawen fa- milv, which was fold to George Taylor, Efq. for lefs money than was expended on the brick wall of the park. It is now the property of William Andrews, Efq. CASHIOBURY PARK, near Watford, in Herts, 15 miles from London, is faid to have been the fear of the Kino-s of Mercia, till Offa gave it to the monaftery of St. Alban's. Henry VIII beftowed the manor on Richard Morifon, Efq. from whomit paffed to Arthur Lord Capel, whofe defendant, the Earl of Eflex, has here a noble feat in the form of an H, with a park adorned with fine woods and walks, planted by Le Notre. 'The front faces Moot- Park. A little below the houfe is a river, which winds through the park, and fupplies a magnificent lake. The front and one fide of the houfe are modern; the other fides are very ancient, CC][L C H A 63. CECIL LODGE, near Abbot's Langley, one of the feats ef the Marquis of Sal'rfbury, purchafed by his lordfhip, for his refidence, during the lifetime of his father. It is now in the occupation of Lady Talbot. CHALFONT, ST. PETER's, a village in Bucks, 21 miles from London, in the road to Aylefbury. Chalfont Houfe is the feat of Thomas Hibbert, Efq. CHALFONT, ST. GILES'S, two miles farther, was the refidence of Milton, during the plague in London, in 1665. The houfe, in all probability, from its appearance, remains nearly in its original ftate. It was taken for him by Mr. Elwood, the Quaker, who had been recommended to our blind Bard as one that would read Latin to him for the be- nefit of his converfation. Here Elwood firft faw a com- plete copy of Paradife Loft, and, having perilled it, faid, " Thou haft faid a great deal on Paradife Loft, but what haft thou to fay to Paradife Found?" This queftiou fug- gefted to Milton the idea of his Paradife Regained. Near this place Sir Henry Thomas Gott has a feat calledj New 7 land Park, and the late Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer, Bart, a feat called the Vatch. CHARLTON, a village in Kent, on the edge of Black- heath, famous for a fair on St. Luke's day, when the mob wear horns on their heads. It is called Horn Fair, and horn wares of all forts are fold at it. Tradition fays, that King John, hunting near Charlton, was feparated from his attendants, when, entering a cottage, he found the miftrefs alone. Her hufband difcovered them, and threatening to kill them, the King was forced to difcover himfelf, and,to.- purchafe his fafety with gold ; befide which, he gave him all the land thence as far as Cuckold's-Point, and eftablifh- ed the fair as the tenure. A fermon is preached on the fair-day, in the church. James I granted the manor to Sir- Adam Newton, Bart, (preceptor to his fon Henry) who built her? a Gothic Houfe. On the outfrde of the wall is . a long row of fome of the oldeft cyprefs trees in England. Behind the houfe are large gardens, and beyond thefe a fmall park, which joins Woolwich Common. It is the feat ot General Sir Thomas Spencer , Wilfon, Bart. See College. Ga. GJIART, 64 CHE CHART-PARK, near Barking, the beautiful feat and pleafure-grounds of Captain Cornwall. CHE AM, a village in Surry, between Sutton and Ewe!. The mnnor-houfeof Eaft Cheam, the feat of Philip Antro- bus, I.fq. is an ancient ftrufture. In the church, in Lum- Jry's Chancel, is the monument of Jane Lndy Lumley, who died in 1577. She tranflated the Iphigenia of Euripides, and fome of the orations of Ifocrates, into Englifh, and one of the latter into Latin. It is remarkable, that of fix fuccefiive Rectors of Cheam, between 1 1581, and 1662, five became Bifhops; nameJy, Anthony Watfon, Biihop of Chichefter, Lancelot Andrews, B'ifhop of Winchefter, George Mountain, ArchbifliopofYork, Richard Senhoufe, Bifhop of Carlifle, and John Hacket, Bifhop of Lichfield and Coventry. See Nonfucb. CHELSEA, a village in Middlefex, feated on the Tha- mes, two miles from London. It extends almoft to Hyde Park Corner, and includes a contiderable part of Knights- bridge. At the upper end of Cheyne Walk, is the epifco- pal palace of Winchefter, purchafed by acl of Parliament, in 1664, on the alienation of the demefnes belonging to that fee in Southwark and Bifhop's Waltham In the place called the Stable Yard, is a houfe, which was the re- fidence of Sir Robert Walpole. It is now the property of George Aufrere, Efq. who has here a fine collection of pic- tures, among which may be particularly noticed the Seven, Works of Mercy, Sebaftian Bourdon; two landfcapes, G. Pouffin ; portrait of a pirate, Georgioni ; St. Catharine, Corregio; and a Holy Family, Titian. The gardens are very beautiful; and, in an oftagon fummer houfe, is Ber- nini's famous ftatue of Neptune. Lord Cremorne has an elegant villa on the Thames, with a good collection of pic- tures, among which are feveral pieces by Ferg; a portrait of Gefler, Vandyck; and the Earl of Arlington and family, Netfcher. Here is alfo a beautiful window of ftaiiied glals by Jarvis. It confifts of about 20 pieces; the,, fubjecls, landfcapes, fea-pieces, Gothic buildings, &c. In the latter, the effect of the funfhine through the windows is admira- bly well managed. Near Lord Cremorne's, is the villa of Lady Mary Coke, formerly the property of Dr. Hoadly, author of The Sufpicious Huflband. The CHELSEA; 6 S $ The great Sir Thomas More refided in this pzrifh, and hrs manfion-houfe, which (according to Mr. Lyfons, Vol. II. p. 88.) flood at the N. end of Beaufort Row, was inha- bited afterward by many illuflrious characters. It is faid, that Sir Thomas was buried in the church; but this is a difputed faft. However, there is a monument to his me- mory, and that of his two wives, with a long Latin infcrip- tion written by himfelf. la the churchyard, is the mo- nument of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart, founder of the Britifh Mufeum; and on the S. W. corner of the church is affix- ed a mural monument to the memory of Dr. Edward- Chamberlayne, with a punning Latin epitaph, which, for its quaintnefs, may detain the reader's attention. In the church is a ftill more curious Latin epitaph on his daugh- ter ; from which we learn, that on the 3oth of June, 1690, fhe fought, injmen's clothing, fix hours, againft the French, an board a fire-fliip, under the command of her brother. . In 1673, the company of Apothecaries took a piece of ground at Chelfea, by the fide of the Thames, and prepared it as a ootanical garden. Sir Hans Sloane, (who had ftu- died his favourite fcience there, about the time of its firft eflablifhment) when he purchafed the manor, in 1721,. granted the freehold of the premifes to the company, on condition that they mould prefent annually to the Royal Society 50 new plants till the number fliould amount to 2C3OO. In 1733, the company creeled a marble ilatue of their benefactor, by Ryfbrack, in the centre of the garden. On the N. fide of the garden is a fpacious greenhoule, no feet long, over which is a library, containing a large col- lection of botanical works, and numerous fpecimens of dried : plants. On the S. fide are two cedars of Libanus, of large growth, and very fingular form. They were planted in 1685, being then three feet high; and, in 1793, the girth of the larger, at three feet from the ground, was 12 feet Hi inches; that of the fmaller, 12 feet and J of an inch,.. The Chealfea water-works were conftrucled in 1724, , in which year the proprietors were incorporated. A canal was then dug from the Thames, near Ranelagh, ta Ptmli-. co, where there is a fleam engine to raife the water into pipes, which convey it to Chelfea, the refervoirs in Hyde rark and the Green Park, to Weftminfter, and various G 3 parts 66 CHELSEA. parts of the W. end of the town. The office of the pro- prietors is in Abingdon Street, Weftminfter. In Cheyne Walk is a famous coffee-houfe, firft opened in 1695, by one Salter, a barber, who drew the attention of the public by the eccentricity of his conduct, and by fur- nifhing his houfe with a large collection of natural and other cunolities, which ftill remain in the coffee-room, where printed catalogues are fold, with the names of the principal benefactors to the collection. Sir Hans Sloane contributed largely out of the fuperfluities of his own mu- feum. Admiral Munden, and other officers, who had been much on the coafts of- Spain, enriched it with many curiofities, and gave the owner the name of Don Saltero, by which he is mentioned more than once in the Tatler, particularly in No. 34. In the hamlet of Little Chelfea, the Earl of Shaftfbury, auihor of the Characteriftics, had a houfe in which he ge- nerally refided during the fitting of Parliament. It was purchafed, in 1787, by the parifh of St. George, Hanover Square, as an additional workhoufe; that parifh extending over great part of Chelfea. On the fite of a once celebrated manufactory of porce- lain, (in an old manfion by the water fide) is now a manu- factory of ftained paper, ftamped after a peculiar manner, the invention of Meflrs. Eckhardts, who likewife eftablifh- ed at Whitelands Houfe, in 1791, a new and beautiful ma- nufacture of painted filk, varnifhed linen, cloths, paper, &c. Near the King's Road, is Triquet's manufactory of artificial ftone, and that of fire-proof errthenr ftoves, kitch- en ware, c. carried on by Johanna Hempel, widow, who is alfo patentee of the artificial filtering ftones. See Ranelagb. CHELSEA-HOSPITAL, for invalids in the land fervice, was begun by Charles II, and completed by William III. The firft projector of this magnificent ftructure was Sir Ste- phen Fox, grandfather to the Right Hon. Charles James Fox. " He could not bear," he faid, " to fee the common foldiers, who had fpent their ftrength in our fervice, reduced to beg;" and to this ftructure he contributed 13,000!. It was built by Sir Chriftopher Wnm, on the fite of an old college, which had efcheated to the crown. This royal hofpital ftands at a fmall diftance from the Thames. CHELSEA HOSPITAL. . 67 Thames. It is built of brick, except the quoins, cornices, pediments, and columns, which are of free ftone. The principal building confifts of a large quadrangle open on the S. fide; in the centre ftands a bronze ftatue of Charles II, in a Roman habit, which coft 500!. and was given by Mr. Tobias Ruftat. The eaft and weft fides, each 365 feet in length, are principally occupied by wards for the penfioners; and, at the extremity of the former, is the Go- vernor's houfe. In the centre of each of thefe wings, and in that of the N. front, are pediments of freeftone, fupport- ed by columns of the Doric order. In the centre of the S. fro -it is a portico fupported by fimilar columns; and, on. each fide, is a piazza on the frize of which k this infcrip- tion* " In fubfidium & levamen emeritorum fenio bello- que fraftorum, condidit Carolus Secundus, aux.it Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gulielmus & Maria Rex & Regina, 1690."- The internal centre of this building is occupied by a large veftibule, terminating in a dome. On one fide is the chapel, the altar-piece of which, reprefenting the af- cenfion of our Saviour, was painted by Sebaftian Ricci. The hall, where the penfioners dine, is lituated on the op- pofite fide of the veftibule. It is of the fame dirnenfions as the chapel, 1 10 feet in length; and, at the upper end, is a picture of Charles II, on horfeback, the gifi. of the Earl of Ranelagh. The whole length of the principal building, from eaft to weft, is 790 feet; a wing having been added to each end of the N. fide of the great quadrangle, which forms part of a fmaller court. Thefe courts are occupied by various offices, and 'the infirmaries. The latter are kept remarkably neat, and'aipplied with hot, cold, and va- pour baths. To the N. of the college is an inclofure of 13 'acres, planted with avenues of limes and horfe-chefnutsj and, toward the S. are extenfive gardens. The ordinary number of in-penfioners is 336, who are provided with an uniform of red lined with blue, lodging, diet, and eight-pence a week. The various fei vants of the hofpital, am6ng whom are 26 nurfes, make" the whole number of it's inhabitants 550. The number of out-pen- lioncrs is unlimited; their allowance is 7!. 125. 6d. a year: there nre now upward of 21,000, who are difperfed all over the three kingdoms, exerciling their various occupa- tions. 68 CHE tions, but'liable to perform garrifon duty, as invalid compa- nies, in time of war. The annual expence of the houfe eftablifliment, including the falaries of the oflicers, and all incidental charges, varies from 25,000 to 28,000!. This, with the allowances to the out-penfioners, is defrayed by a fum annually voted by Parliament, and which, in 1794, was 151,742!. 55. lod. CHERTSEY, a market-town 10 Surry, 20 miles from London. Here, fays Camden, Julius Caefar crofled the Thames, when he firft attempted the conqueft of Britain; but Mr. Gough, in his additions to the Britannia, has ad- vanced fome arguments againft this opinion. Here was once an abbey, in which was depofited the corpfe of Henry VI, afterward removed to Windfor. Out of the ruins of this abbey, (all that remains of which is the outer wall of the circuit) Sir Henry Carew, m after of the buck-hounds to Charles II, built a fine houfe, which now belongs to Mr. Wefton. On the fide of St. Anne's Hill, is the feat of the Right Hon. Charles James Fox. On this hill, which commands a beautiful profpeft, is ftili part of the Hone wall of a chapel dedicated to St. Anne. Not far from this hill is Monk's Grove, near which was difcovered a once celebrated medicinal fpring. It was loft for a confi- derable time, but has been found again. The bridge at Chertfey was built in 1785, by Mr. Paine. It confifts of feven arches, each formed of the fegment of a circle, and is built of Purbeck ftone, at the expence of 13,000!. The original contraft was for 7,500!. In 1773, in digging a vault, in the chancel of the church, a leaden coffin was difynvered, containing the body of a woman in very high prefervation. The face appear- ed perfectly frefh, and the lace of the linen found. As the church was built with the abbey, in the time of the Saxons, it is fuppofed that the body muft have been depofited there before the conqueft. To this place Cowley, the poet, retired; and here he ended his days, in a houfe, called the Porch Houfe, now belonging to Mr. Alderman Clark. His ftudy is a clofet in the back part of the houfe, toward the garden. CHESHUNT, a village, once a market-town, 13 miles from London, is fituated in an extenfive parifli and manor, which CHE 69 which were once in the poffeffion of John of Gaunt, fourth fon of Edward III; afterward of Henry Fitzrov, Duke of Richmond^ natural fon of Henry VIII; and the prefent proprietor of the greateft part of the manor is Sir George William Prefcott, Bart. The manor of St. Andrew ie Mot was granted by Henry VIII to Cardinal Wolfey, who is fuppofed to have refided in Chefhunt Houfe, a plain brick ftru&ure, almoft entirely rebuilt fince his time, but ftill furrounded by a moat. The people here mention fqme circumftanres very unfavourable to the character of his Eminence, but which we do not think it right to relate, without better evidence than that of village tradition. His boundlefs ambition, rapacity, and oftentation, have fixed an odium on his memory, which it is unneceffary to heighten by the imputation of infatiuble luft and inhuman aflaffination. This manor is the proper- ty of Sir John Shaw, Bart. See EJbcr. Chefhunt Nunnery, the feat of Mrs. Blackwood, was a nunnery, a fmall part of which remains. The infide of it has been modernized, and is now ufed for a kitchen : the other parts of'the houfe have been built at different times, but the apartments are modern and elegant. They con- tain an excellent collection of paintings; among which is a remarkable one by three different mafters; the build- ings, by Viviani; the figures, by Miel; and the back- ground, by Lorrain. The river Lea forms a canal in the front of the houfe ; and a beautiful vifta is terminated by a view of Waltham Abbey, and the woodland hills of EfTex. At Chefhunt, Richard Cromwell, the Protector, fpent many years of a venerable old age ; a ftriking leflbn, now much oblcurity and peace are to be preferred to the fplen- did infelicities of guilty ambition. He aflumed the name of Clark, and firft refided, in 1680, in a houfe near the church: and here he died, in 1712, in his 8oth year; en- joying a good ftate of health to the laft, and fo hale and hearty, that, at fourfcore, he would gallop his horfe for many miles together. See Theobalds. CHEVENING, * village of Kent, 21 miles from Lon- don, in the road to Sevenoaks. Here is the feat of Earl Stanhope, a handfome modern, ftruclure, fronted with ftucco. CHEYNEYS, ; C II I- CIIEYNEYS, between Flaunden and Rickmanfworth, has been the feat of the Ruffels, Dukes of Bedford, above 200 years, and is ftill their buryingplace, adorned with noble monuments. CH1GWELL, a village in Eflex, io| miles from Lon- don, on the road to Ongar. Here is a freefchool endowed by Abp. Harfnett, who had been Vicar of this place. He was buried in the church; and, over his grave, was his figure in brnfs, as large as the life, drefled in his robes, with his mitre and crofier. This, for the better prefervation of it, Jiasfince been eredled upon a pedeftal in the chancel. Here is Rolls, the feat of Eliab Harvey, Efq. CHINKFORD, a village near Woodford, in EfTex, fo agreeably fituate for retirement, that the moft remote dif- tance from the metropolis can hardly exceed it. CHIPS FEAD-PLACE, two miles from Sevenoaks, the ancient feat of Charles Polhil, Efq. CHISLEHURST, a village near Bromley, in Kent, ii miles from London, was the birthplace of Sir Nicholas Ba- con, Lord Keeper, father of the great Vifcount St. Alban's; and here alfo was born Sir Francis Walfingham. In this parifh, near St. Mary's Cray, is Frognal, the feat of Vif- count Sidney; and, oppofite Bertie Place, are the villa and park of Mr. Twycrofs. See Bertie Place and Camden Place. CHISWICK, a village in Middlefex, feated on the Tha- mes, near the road to Hounflow. In the churchyard is a monument to the memory of Hogarth; on which are the following lines by Garrick : Farewell, great painter of mankind, Who reach'd the nobleft point of art ; \Vhofe pictur'd morals charm the mind, And through the eye correct the heait! If genius ftre thee, reader, ft.iy ; If nature move thee, drop a tear ; If neither touch thee, turn away: For Hogarth's honour'd duft lies here. Near this is the tomb of Dr. William Rofe, who died in 1786, and was many years a diftinguifhed writer in the Monthly Review. On this are infcribed the following lines, by Mr. Murphy. Whoe'er , CHISWICK. Jl Whoe'er thou art, with filent footfteps tread The hallow'd mould where Rofe reclines his head. Ah ! let not folly one kind tear deny, But penfive paufc where truth and honour lie. His the gay wit that fond attention drew, Oft heard, and oft admir'd, yet ever new ; , The heart that melted at another's grief, The hahd in fecret that beftow'd relief; Science untindtur'd by the pride of fchools, And native go odnefs free from formal rules. With zeal, through life, he toil'd in Learning's caufe, But more, fair Virtue ! to promote thy laws. Hisev'ry action fought the nobleft end 5 The tender hulbind, father, brother, friend. Perhaps, ev'n now, from yonder realms of-day, To his lov'd relatives he fends a ray; l'le;!i.'d to behold affections, like his own, With filial duty raife this votive ftone. In the church v is another epitaph by Mr. Murphy, on John Ayton Thompfon, a youth of fifteen : If in the morn of life each -winning grace, The converfe fweet, the mind-illumined face, The lively wit that charm'd with early art,' And mild affections ftreaming from the heart; If thefe, lov'd youth, could check the hand of fate, Thy matchlefs worth had claim'd a longer date. But thou artbleft, while here we heave the figh ; Thy death is virtue wafted to the fky. Yet ftill thy image fond affection keeps, The fire remembers, and the mother weeps ; Still the friend grieves, who faw thy vernal bloom, And here, fad tafk ! infcribes it on thy tomb. A. MURPHY. In the church, in the Earl of Burlington's vault, is inter- red the illuftriotis Kent, a painter, architect, and the father of modern gardening. " In the fiift character," fays Mr. Walpole, " he was below mediocrity ; in thefecond, he was a reftorer of the fcience; in the laft, an original, p.nd the inventor of an art that realize? painting, and improves na- ture. Mahomet imagined an Elyfium ; but Kent created many." He felt The pencil's power : but, fu'J by higher forms Of btauty, than that pencil knew to paint, Work'd with the living hue* that ,iature lent, And 72 , CHIS WICK-HOUSE. And realized his landfcapss. Generous ht, Who gave to Painting, what the wayward nymph Rcfus'd her votary, thofe Elyfian fcencs, Which, would (he emulate, her niceft h.md Mull all its force oflight and lhade employ. MASON. In 1685, Sir Stephen Fox (grandfather of the Right Ho- nourable Charles James Fox) built a villa here, with which King William was fo pleafed, that he is faid to have ex- claimed to the Earl of Portland, on his firft vifit, " This plare is perfectly fine : I could live here five days." This was his ufual expreffion when he was much pleafed with a fituation ; and he is faid never to have paid the fame com- pliment to any other place in England, except to the Earl of Exeter's at Burleigh. It is now the property and refi- dence of Robert Stevenfon, Efq. See Grave Houfe, Turn- bam Green, and CHISWICK- HOUSE, a celebrated feat of the Duke of Devonfhire's, built by the great Earl of Burlington. The afcent to the houfe is'by a noble double flight of fteps, on one fide of which is a ftatue of Palladio, and, on the other, that of Inigo Jones. The portico is fupported by fix fluted Corinthian pillars, with a pediment ; and a dome, at the top, enlightens a beautiful oclagonal faloon. " This houfe," fays Mr. Walpole, " the idea 'of which is borrowed from a well-known villa of Palladio, is a mo- del of tafte, though not without faults, Ibme of which are occafioned by too ftricl. adherence to r.ules and fymmetry. Such are too many correfponding doors in fpaces fo con- tracted ; chimnies between windows, and, which is worfe, windows between chimnies; and veftibules, however beau- tiful, yet little fecured from the damps of this climate. The tfufles that fupport the ceiling of the corner drgiving- room, are beyond meafure mafiive; and the ground apart- ment is rather a diminutive catacomb than a library in a northern latitude. Vet thefe blemifhes, and Lord Her- vey's wit, who faid " the houfe was too fmall to inhabit, jnd too large to hang to one's watch," cannot depreciate the tafte that reigns throughout the whole. The larger court; dignified by pidturefque cedars, and the claflic fce- nery of the fmall court that unites the old and new honfe, are more worth feeing than many fragments of ancient grandeur, c L A 73 grandeur, which our travellers vifit under all the dangers attendant on long voyages. The garden is in the-Italian tafte, but diveftcrd of conceits, and far preferable to every ftyle that reigned till our late improvements. The build- ings are heavy, and not equal to the purity of the houfe. The lavifh quantity of urns and fculpture behind the gar- den front fiiould be retrenched." Such were the fentiments of Mr. Walpole on this cele- brated villa, before the noble proprietor attempted the ca- pital improvements rn which he is now proceeding. Two wings have been added to the houfe, from the defigns of Mr. Wyatt. Thefe will remove the cbjeftions that have been made to the hnufeas more fanciful and beautiful than convenient and habitable. The Italian garden is to difplay the beauties of modern planting; and Tome of the fombre yews, with the termini, and other pieces of fculpture, have been removed. The molt valuable pictures in the Dukt's magnificent collection, have been taken down, and put up in packing rafes, till the improvements are finHlied. CLAN DON, Eaft ahd Weft, are two contiguous vil- lages in Surry. Weft Clandon, 26 miles from London, is the manor of Lord Onflqw, whofe noble feat, after an Italian model, is confidered as thebeft family houfe in the county, 'and is now in the occupation of the Archbifhop of Canterbury. See- HatMamh. CLAl'HAM, a village in Surry, 3* miles from .London, confiding chiefly of many handfome houfes, which fur- round a common, that commands fome very pleafing views. This common was formerly little better than a morafs, and the roads were aimoft impaflable. The btter are now in an excellent ftate ; and the common itfelf is fo beautifully planted with trees, both Englifb and exotic, that it has much the appearance of a park. Thefe improvements were effected by a fubfcription of the inhabitants, who, on this occafion, have been much indebted to the t.ifte and ex- ertions of Chriftopher Ba'dwin, Efq. whofe villa is adja- cent ; and, as a proof of the confequent increafcd value of property on this fpot, Mr. Baldwin has fince fold 14 acres of land, near his own houfe, for 5000!. Among other villas on this delightful common, are thofe of Samuel, Ro- bert, and Henry Thornton, Wi'liam Smith, and John H Dent, 74 c L i Dent, Efqrs. and Members of Parliament. Near the road to Wandlworth is a refervoir of fine water, from which the village is fupplied. On the N. E. corner of the common, is a new church, ereded in i 776, at the expence of i t,oool but neither in the church itfelf, nor in the ground incloied around it, are any interments fuffeKed. Of the old church, only one aifle remains ; in which the funeral fervice is per- formed, when there are any interments in the adjoining cemetery, The manor-houfe, now a boarding fchool for young ladies, isfituattd near this, and is rendered very con- Jpicuous by a curious octagonal tower. CLAREMONT, at Eflier, in Surry, was the feat or John Holies Pelham, Duke of Newcaftle, by whom, when Earl of Clare, its prefent name was given ; on which oc- rafion Garth wrote his poem of " Claremont," in imita- tion of " Cooper's Hill." It was parchafcd by the late Jx>rdClive, who pulled it down, and ei-eded an elegant villa, in a much better fituation. The park is diftinguiih- ed bv its noble woods, Jawns, mounts, &c. The furnmer- houfe, called the Belvedere, on a mount on that fide of the park next Eiher, affords an extenfive view of the country. This beautiful place is now the property of the Earl of Tvrconnel. 'CLAY HALL, in the parifli of Old Windfor, an ele- gant cottage, the property of Mrs. Keppel. It was much Improved by the late Mr. Aylet, and is now the refidence of Sir Henry Dafhwood, Bart. CLEWER, a parifh adjoining to Windfor, in which is the well-built feat of Mr. Payne. CLIEFDEN HOUSE, the late feat of the Countefs of Orkney, at Taploe, near Mr.idenhead Bridge, was built by George Yilliers, Duke of Buckingham, and came by mar- riage 'to the Earl of Orkney. This ftately manfion, which had a noble terrace in front, fupported by arches, was to- tally deftroyed by fire, on the zoth of May, 1795, together with all the furniture and paintings, and the fine taprftiy hangings, reprefenting the victories of the great Duke of Maryborough, in which the Eaii of Orkney hirofelf had-a conificuous (hare. Pope has commemorated this place, in the celebrate lines, in which he records the wretched end of its founder: COL 75 In the XT or ft inn's worft room, with mat half-hung, The floors of plaftcr, and the walls of flung, On once a flo"k,-b d, but repair' J with ftrawj Vi'lth tape-ty'd curtains never meant to draw, The George .tnd Goiter dangling ftom that bed r Where tawdry yellow ftrove with dirty red, Great Villiers iies. Alls! how chang'd' from him^ That life of pleafure, and that foul of whim ! Gallant and gay, in Ctiefdcn's proud alcove-, The bow'r ot wanton Shrewibury and Love. Or juft as giy, at council, in a ring Of mimick'd ilatefmen, and their merry King. No wit to flatter left of all his (lore ! Nof.)o4 to laugh at, which he valued more. There,, victor of his health, of fortune, friends', And fame; this lord of ufclefs thoufaad^ ends. COBHAM, a village in Surry, 19 miles from London,. in the road fo Guilford. Here is a feat, built by Earl Li- gouier, after the manner of an Italian villa. The rrrer Mole paflcs by the fide of the gardens, and, being made here four or five times broader than it was naturally, has a happy effect, efpecially as the banks are difpofed into a (lope, with a broad grafs walk, planted on each fide with f\veet fhrubs. At one end of this walk is a very elegant room, a delightful retreat in hot weather, being flladed with large elms on the fouth fide, and having the, water on the north and eaft. The houfe is fituated half a mile from- the road to Portfmouth, and is fo much hid by the trees near it, as not to be feen till you rife on the heath beyond Cobham. The property of this feat is ftill in the reprefentatives of the late Earl, fince whofc^ death it has never been lt but as a temporary refidence. See Bur--wcod and Faille's Hill. COLE-GREEN, to the W. of Hertford, the feat of Earl Cowper, built by the Lord Chancellor Cowper. COLN, a river which rifes in Herts, divides Middlefex from Bucks, and falls into the Thames ai Staines. It is thus mentioned by Pope : Coin, whofe dark ftreams h ; s flowery iflands lave. COLNBROOK, a market- town, 1 7 miles from London, eu four channels of the Coin, over each of which it has a H 4 bridge. 76 coo bridge. One part of it is in Middlefex ; the other in Bucks. COLESHILL, a village, four miles W. of Rickmanf- worth, in Herts, and in a part of that county which is in- fulated in Bucks. It was the birth place of Waller, the poet. ^ COMB-NEVILLE, a manor of Kingfton upon Thames, fo called from William Nevifle, who was in poffeffion of it in the reign of Edward II*. Sir Thomas Vincent is faid to have built the old manor-houfe, where Queen Elizabeth honoured him with a vifit in 1602. It was afterward in the family of Harvey, with an ancient gentleman of which name King William would often go a hawking in the war- ren oppofite the houfe. The manor is now the property of Earl Spencer. Near the fite of the old manfion (which was pulled down in 1752) is Comb Houfe, the refidenceof IVJajor Tollemachej and not far from this are fome refer- voirs of water, couftrucled by Cardinal Wolfev, to fupply Hampton Court. The water is conveyed under the Thames by pipes of a particular couftru&ion. It is much, tfteemed as efficacious in the gravel; isexcellent for drink- ing and waftiing; but is unfit for culinary ufe, as it turns the vegetables that are boiled in it black. COOMB-BANK, the noble feat of Lord Frederic Campbell, at SvKidridge, bet ween Sevenoaksand Wefterham, in Kent. It is watered by the river Darent, which adds greatly to its beauty. The pleafure-grouncls are laid out with great elegance, which, with its extenfive pi ofptcls, renders it an enchanting vilJa. COOPER'S HILL, the fubjea of a celebrated poem by Penham, is fituated in the parifh of Egham, on the right of the road from J. ondon. An ingenious, but perhaps f;i(lidious critic, has qbferved, that Cooper's Hill-, the pro- fefled fubject of the piece, is not mentioned by name, nor * This is fa'd to have belonged to the great Richard Neville, Earl 06 Warwick, who diftin^uiftied bimfclf fo much in the civil wars between the hoofea of York ami Lancafter; but this is probably without founda- tion, as Mr. Lyfons, who appears to have traced the properly with great accuracy, fays, that at'ler the dcf.th of this William Neville, the manor *ver.t to John Madtefham,. who had married one of his thiee daughters. Eavimxi of London , f^jL I. Page 237. I:' COOPER'S HILL. 77 K any account given of its filiation, produce, or hiftory but that it ferves, like the ftand of a telefcope, merely as a convenience for viewing other objects. He adds, " There are many performances which have great beauties and great faults: the fun of genius illuminates their 'mountains, though their vall-ies are dark: bat Cooper's Hill has aa uniform mafs of dullnefs, on whichrthe fun has not beftovv- ed its fainteft irradiation." " Should the query occur, How then came Denham to acquire fuch high reputation? Here it can only be faut, that he was a man of family and fortune, known in public life as High Sheriff of Surry, Governor of Farnham Caftle, and K. B. In fuch a man fmall literary merit is naturally magnified too much j anrt on Cooper's Hill} " 5 On 78 C R A On Cooper's Hill eternal wreaths (hall grow, \V hilc laft;, the mountain, or while Thames (hall flow, I Iccni through confccrated walks to rove, 1 hear foft mufic die along the giovc: Led by the found, I rove from (hade to (liade, By godlike poets venerable made: tl.ie, his firlt hys majeftic Denham fung; Then*, the laft numbers flow'd from Cowley's tongue. Nor fhould we here omit the homage of the excellent Poet of the Chafe: Tread with refpe&ful awe W/ndC.>r's green glades ; where Denham, tuneful bard, Charm'd once the itft'hing Dryads with hi* fong Sublimely fwtet. On this celebrated Hill are the feats of Lord Shuldham and Mr. Smith. Ste Ankctwykt Purniib and Kingi D AGENHAM, a village in EfTex, nine miles from if London, remarkable for the great breach made here bv the Thames, in 1703, which laid near 5000 acres of land under water. After many expenfive projects to flop this breach, the land owners relinquished the undertaking as im- praaicable. In 1714, Parliament interfered, and truftees were appointed, who, the next year, contracted wuh Cap- tain John Perry, who had been employed, by the Czar Pe- ter the Great, in his works on the river Don. He accorn- plifhed the arduous undertaking in lefs than two years, tor 25,000!. the fum agreed upon. DAGNAM PARK, in the parifti of Southweald, near Brentwood, the feat of Sir Richard Neave, Bart. DANSON-H1LL, at Bexley, in Kent, the elegant feat of Sir John Boyd, Bart. The grounds are beautifully dil- pofed, and adorned with a grand flieet of water; which, with woods, plantations, and agreeable inequalities ot iur- face, compofe a delightful fcene. DAREN T, a river in Kent, which rifes near Rivernead r and falls into the Thames below Dartford. Pope thus ce- lebrates this river : And filent Parent, ftainedwith Daniib Mood. ,>,, D A R 8l DARKJXG, a market-town in Surry, 23 miles from London, is feated on the river Mok, and upon a rock of foft fandy ftone, in which deep cellars are dug, that are ex- tremely cold even in the midft of fummer. An incredible quantky of poultry is fold in Darking, which are large and fine, and remarkable for having five claws. Here are fre- quently, about Chriftrnas, capons fo large, as to weigh be- tween feven and eight pounds, out of their feathers. This town was deftroyed by the Danes, but rebuilt either by Ca- nute or the Normans. It is remarkable, that, according, to the cuftom of the manor, the youngeft fon or brother of a cuftomary tenant is heir to the cuftomary eftate of the tenant dying inteftate. See Chart Park, Deepden^ and Den- ligbs. DARTFORD, a market-town in Kent, 15 miles from, London, on the Darent. Here are the remains of a nun- nery, founded by Edward III. Bridget, daughter of Ed- - ward IV, was prrorefs he.re ; and many ladies of noble fa- miles were nuns in this houfe. At the diflblution, Henry VIII converted it into a royal manfion, and granted the of- fice of keeper of it to Sir Richard Long. On his death^ Edward IV granted the fame office to Lord Seymour, the unfortunate brother of the unfortunate Duke of Somerfefi. It was granted, the next year, to Anne of Cleve, the di- vorced wife of Henry VIII; and, on her death, Queen Mary granted it ta the Friars Preachers of Langley in Herts. Elizabeth kept it in her own hands; but James I granted it to the Earl of Salisbury. He conveyed it to Sir Robert Darcy, who gave it the name of Dartford Place-. What rensains of this nunnery is only a fine gateway, ufed as a (table, and a contiguous farm-houfe. Henry VI found- ed an almflioufe at Dartford for five decrepit men. On the river, the frrft papermiil in England was ere&ed by Sir John Spilman, who obtained a patent, and 200!. a year, from Charles I, to. enable him to cany on that manufac- ture; and on this river was alfo the firft mill for flitting iron bars for making wire. Here is a church,, with two churchyards; one round the church, and the other on the top of a hill, which is fo high that it overlooks >he tower of the church. Toe rebellion of Wat Tyler began in thi& town. DATCHT fc 82 DEN DATCHET, a village in Bucks, on the Thames, be- tween Eton and fcttiiK*.- The wooden bridge here is de- caving fo faft. that it is inte.uied to buld one of ftone. Below this bridge, the banks of the river are enriched with handlbme villas, which command a fine view of Wmdfor Caftle, &c. See DitUn Park. DFEPDEN, near Darkins;, is fituated in a valley, lur- roumled by fteep hills. In the laft century, Mr. Charles Howard, who here amufed himfelf with chermftry and other philofophical refearches, planted the : level ground about the houfe with a variety ot exotics. The hills were covered with trees on every fide, excepting the fouth afpetf, which was planted with vines ; and fome tolerable good wine was made here, though the hill is fo fteep, that it is difficult to afcend it : but the vineyard is no more. On the fummit of the hill, is a Cummer- houfe, from which, m a clear dav, the fea, over the fouth downs, near Arundei, may be difcerned. This romantic fpot defcended to the late Duke of Norfolk, who pulled down the old houfe, and built a handfome one in its {lead. The offices being onfi- derably lower thaw the houfe, the communication between them is fubterraneous. The late Ducheis was very fond of the gardens, and formed here a hermitage, with all 1 humble requifites for a holy anchorite. In the gardens, on the fides of the hill, are feveyal natural caverns* The pre- fent Duke fold the place, in 1791, to the late Sir- William . Burrell, Bart. DENBIGHS, near Darking, was remarkable for its gar- dens, laid out in a fingular ftyle, by Jonathan Tyers, Efq. the firft proprietor ofVauxhall, ot that name. It is now in the poffeffioa of Jofeph Denifon, Efq. Among other fingularities, Mr. Tyexs had contrived " The Valley of the Shadow of Death/' The view, on a defcent into this gloomy vale, was awful. There was a large alcove, divid- ed into two compartments, in one of which the Unbeliever was reprefented dying in great agony. Near him were his books, which encouraged him in his libertine courfe, fuch as Hobbes, Tindal, &c. In the other, was the good Chnftian, calm and fercne, taking a folemn kave of the world, and anticipating the joys of immortality. DENHAM, a, village in Bucks, near Uxbridge, in which D I T 83 is the feat and park of Benjamin Way, Efq. Here alfo is Denham Court, the property of Sir William Bowyer, Bart, now let to Henry Hugh Hoare, Efq. DENMARK HILL, a fine hill, near Camberwell, in the road from that village to Dulwich. It commands fome pleafing prbfpects, and, on that account, fome handforne houfes have lately been creeled on it. DEP 1TORD, anciently called Weft Greenwich, a large town in Kent, divided into Upper and Lower Deptford. It is feated on the Thames, 3! miles from London, and is remarkable for its noble dockyard, in which a great number of hands are employed. It has a wet dock of two acres, and another of an acre and a half, with quantities of tim- ber, extenfive ftorehoufes. &c. Here the royal yachts are generally kept j and here is the manor of Say's Court, the property of Sir Frederic Evelyn, Bart. The manor-houfe was^ the feat of his anceftor, John Evelyn. Efq. a celebrated natural philofopher of the laft century, and the refidence alfo of the Czar Peter the Great, during the time that he worked as a fhjpwright in the yard. But thia houfe (which ftill exifts in every account of Deftford hitherto publljhed) has been demolished many years ; and on its file now ftands the workhoufe of the parifn of St. Nicholas. In Deptford are the two parifhes of St Nicholas and St. Paul, and two hofpitals, one of which was incorporated by by Henry VIII, and is called Trinity Houfe of Deptford Strond : it contains 21 houfes, and is fituated near the rhurch. The other, called Trinity Hofpitai, has 38 houfes. Both thefe houfes are for decayed pilots or matters of fliips, or their widows, the men being allowed zos. and the wo. men 1 6s. a month. N. W. of the town is the Red Houfe, a collection of warehoufes and ftorehufes, built of red bricks, whence it had its name. See Wotton. DERHAM PARK, the feat of Chriftopher Bethel, Efq. two miles N. W. of Barnet, in the parifli of Hadley, fitu- ate on an eminence, in a fmall valley, and furrounded, at a little diftance, by high hills. At the entrance of the exten- five park is a magnificent gateway, which coft aoool. D1TTON PARK, the feat of Earl Beaulieu, in the pa- rifh of Datchet, was built by Sir Ralph Winwood, Secreta- ry of tate to James I, on the file of a maufion, which had been 84 DOW been occupied by Cardinal Wolfey. It is fuiroumlad by a moat. The apartments are fpacious and finely- painted ; and, in the gallery, is a good collection of pictures. The park is famed for its ancient majeftic oaks. DORNEV-COURT, near Eton Wick, the feat of Sir Charles Harcourt Palmer, Bart. DOWN HALL, three miles from Sawbridgewortb, Ilfi-rs, in the road to Hatfield Heath, in Eflex, the feat of thjij^LThomas Selwyn, Efq. on an eminence that com- mands a fin^ profpect. This plaee Prior chofe for retire- ment, after many years of political intrigue ; and in his works U " Down Hall," a baJlad, of which the beft line is, " I fhcw'J you Down Hall : did you look for Verfailes r" Prior, after having filled many public employments with great ability, found himfelf, at the age of 53, in danger of poverty. Hut his friends procured a fubfcription for his Poems| which amounted to 4000 guineas ; and Lord Har- tey, fon of the Earl of Oxford, to whom he had invariably adhered, added an equal fum for the purchafe of this place, which our poet was to enjoy during life, and Harley after his deceafe. " He had now," fays Dr. Johnfon, " what wits and phi- lofophers have often w idled, the power of pa fling the day in contemplative tranquillity. But it feems, that bufy men ftldom live Jong in a ftate of quiet. It is not unlikely that tiis health declined. He complain? of deafnefs ; for, (fays he) I took little care of my ears, iuh:lc I and lately of James Baillie, Efq. deceafed; Rockwork Ga e, Houfe, the refidence of Thomas Matthias, Efq. and a houfe built by Thomas Wood, Efq. on a hill on the right hand of the road from Acton to Hanwell. At Little Ealing are Place "Houfe, the feat of Cuthbert Fiftier, Efq. and the vil. las of Sir Charles Morgan, Bart, and General Lafcelles. At Caftle Hill, is the elegant villa of the late Henry Beau- foy, Efq. now Mrs. Fitzherberj's;. and, on Caftle Bear Hill, is the villa of Richard Meux, Efq. The old church having fallen down, Marcft 27, 1729, a neat new one was creeled At Old. Brentford, in this pa- rifli, is George Chapel, built in 1770, as a chapel of eafe. The Sunday fchools in this parifli, inftituted in 1786, by the Rev. Charles Sturges, the prefent vicar, have been par- ticularly efficacious, in confequence of the perfevering at- tention of Mrs. Trimmer, fo well known by her ufeful treatifes, tending to increafe the comforts and reform the manners of the poor. About 60 boys, and more than 100 girls are now educating in thefe fchools, which are con- ducted upon a plan that affords great encouragement to the meritorious, and is admirably calculated to excite a fp in: of emulation and improvement*. A fchool of induftry for girls has been fome time eftablifhed: at prefent, they are 40 in number, and are employed in making coarfe fhirts. A (chool of induftry for boys has alfo been lately opened : hitherto they have been employed onjy in combing wool ;. but it is in contemplation to find them fome other occupa- tion, which may prove of more fcrvice to them in future life. See Gunntrjlury Houfe. EDGWARE, a market-town, eight miles from London, on the road (the ancient Watling vStreet) to St. Alban's. The weft fide of the ftreet is in the parifh of Whitchurch. See Brockiey HilL * One of the regulations is, {hat every child who is a conftmt ntf?n- dant, and comes to fchool before nine in the morning, neat in pcrttm -and apparel, on paying a halfpenny, (hall receive a penny ticker. The ad- vjnt.igcs of this rtgulation proved to be inch, that gown, WTC purrhal'ej f >r all the girls wlv> had been three months in ttie fchool., and clothing for ibe boys According to their refpective rueriis. I a EDMONTON, 83 L T EDMONTON, a village in Middlefex, fcven miles from London, in the road to Ware. Near Tanners End, in this parifh, is The Firs, the feat of Sir James Winter Lake, Bart. See Brtjb Hill and Swtbgate. EFFINGHAM, a village in Surry, three miles from Leatherhend, was once, according -to tradition, a populous place, in which were- 16 churches. There are ftill proofs of it$ having been much larger than it is at prefent; for wells, and cavities like cellars, have" been frequently found in the fields and woods here ; and in the church are feveral old flails and. monuments. EGHAM, a village in Surry, on theThames, 18 miles from London. Here is a neat almflioufe, founded in 1 706, by Mr. Henry Strode, merchant of London, for fix men and fix women. THe centre of this building is a good houfe for a fchoolmafter, who has the education of 20 poor boys of Egham. Sir John Denham, father of the poet of the fame name, and Baron of the Exchequer in the rt-igns of James and Charles I, refided in this parifh, and founded an almflioufe here, for fix men and fix women. Ste Cccfer's Hill cunt Runny Mead. ELSTREE, a village in Herts, 1 1 miles from London, ir* the road from Edgware to St. Alban's, is thought by Norden to have been the Roman city called Sulloniaca, men- tioned byAr.toninus; but Caindcn and Horfley are of opi- nion that it was on Brockley Hill, in this neighbourhood ; many iirrre, coins, Roman bricks, c. having been due up there; and at Penny- well, near Brockley Hill, are ftiil vi- fible the foundations of feveral walls. ELTHAM, a maiket-town r eight miles from London, on the road to Maidllone. Anthony Beck, Bifliop of Durham, having fraudulently fecured the pofleffion of this manor, beautified the capital manfion, and left it to Eleanor, the Queen of Edward I. Edward II frequently refided here. His Queen was here delivered of a fon, who had the name of John of Eltham. Poffibly, from this circumftance, it is improperly called King John's Palace; unlefs it obtained this appellation from the fumptuous entertainment given here by Edward III to the captive King John of France. Succeeding Princes, and particularly Henry VII, enlarged and improved this palace; but it was neglected, after Green- wich E N F 89 wich became the favourite country refidence. Our princes often celebrated their feftivals at Eltham with great pomp. One of the laft of thefe feafts was held here at Whitfuntide, in 1515, when Henry VIII created Sir Edward Stanley Baron Monteagle, for his Cervices, at Flodden Fit-Id. Part of the ftately hall which was the fcene of thofe feafts, is ftill in good preservation, and is ufed as a barn. The roof, in particular, is fomewhat like that of Weftminfter Hall. The large moat round the palace, although the greateil part of it is dry, and covered with verdure, has ftill two ftone bridges over it, one of which confifts of four arches. The farm-houfe in the inclofure, though fomewhat moder- nized, or rather difguifed, by plafter and white-vvafhing, was part of this ancient palace. Queen Elizabeth, who was born at Greenwich, was frequently carried thence to Eltham, when an infant, for the benefit of the air; and this palace flic vifited in a dimmer excurfion round the country in 1^59. It was granted, with the manor, tor a term of years, perpetually renewable, to one of the anoef- tors of Sir John Shaw, who has here a feat and plantations, called Eltham Lodge; but the trees in the park are the property of the crown, and many of them were marked for lale in die laft furvey. In the handfome garden of Mr. Dorrington is a greenhoufe, in which were formerly kept the exotics of that eminent botanift, Dr. Sherrard. The H'jftus Eltbamlenfis is well known to the curious in botany. On a part of Shooter's Hill, in this parifli, is a lofty tower, erected by Lady James, to commemorate the reduction, in i 756, of Severn droog, a ftrong fort, which belonged to An- gria, the pirate, on an ifland near Bombay. This ftruc- ture, which is called Severndroog Caftle, is erected from a defign of Mr. Jupp's, and is of a triangular form, with tur- rets at each angle. It is feen at a great diftance. Sec Fa.iy Hill and Park Farm Place. EMBER COURT, at Thames Ditton, between King, fton and Eflier, was the feat of Arthur Onilow, the cele- brated Speaker of the Houfe of Commons. It is now the feat of Sir Francis Ford, Barr. EXFlhLD, a town in Middlefex, 10 miles from Lon- don, was famous for its chafe, a large tract of woodland, filled with deer. This was granted, by the Conqueror, to 15 an 90 ENFIELD. an anceftor of the Mandcvillcs, Earls of Eflex, from whom it came to the Bohuns. It was afterward annexed to the Duchy of Lancafter. When King James refided at Theo- balds, this chafe was well ftorked with deer; but, in the civil wars, it was ftripped of the game and timber, and let out in farms. At the Reiteration, it was again laid open, woods were planted, and the whole chafe was (locked with deer ; but, by an aft of Parliament, in 1779, it was disfo- refted. Part of it was allotted to different parifhes, and in- clofed, when it was found to contain 834Q acres ; and ano- ther part, referved to the crown, was fold in eight lots, at the office of the Duchy of Lancafter. In the town, is part of an ancient royal palace, refpeding the building of which antiquaries are not agreed. It was the manor-houfe ofEnfield; and either in this, or another ancient houfe, called Elfynge-hall, (now demolifhed) Edward VI, on his acceffion to the throne, kept his court, for five months, be- fore he removed to London. Mr. Lyfons is of opinion, \_Vcl II. p. 283.] that the palace " underwent confiderable repairs, or perhaps was wholly rebuilt, in the reign of this Prince, and mod probably upon occafion of the manor be- ing granted to the Princefs Elizabeth." One of the rooms ir.il! remains in its original ftate, with oak pannels, and a richly-ornamented ceiling. The chim- neypiece is fupported by columns of the Ionic and Corin- thian order, and decorated with the cognizances of the rofe and portcullis, and the arms of France and England quar- tered, with the garter and royal fupporters, a lion and a gryphon. Underneath is this motto : " Solafalusftyinre Deo, funt cetera fraudes Our only fecurity is to ferve God : aught elfe is vanity." In the fame room is preferred part of another chimueypiece, with nearly the fame ornaments, and this motto: " Ut rosfupcrkerbam, ejl benevolcnt'ia regis Like the dew on the grais is the bounty of the King ;" al- luding, it is probable, to the royal grant. Among the col- lection of royal letters in the Kritifh Mufeum, is a Latin *>ne from the Princefs Elizabeth, dated Enfield ; and in the Bodleian Library is a M. S. copy of a fermon, tranflated by the Princefs, from the Italian of Occhini. It is written on vellum, in her own hand, and was {ent, ns i new-year's gift, to her brother, King Edward. The dedication is dat- ed E P P pi ed Enfield, Dec. 30 ; the year not mentioned. When Eli- zabeth became Queen, (he frequently vifited Enfield, and kept her court there in the early part of her reign. The palace was alienated from the crown by Charles I, and has been ever (ince in private hand?. In 1670, it was taken by Mr. Uvedale, matter of the grammar ichool, who being much attached to the ftudy of botany, planted a cedar of Libanus, now one of the fineft in the kingdom, and mea- furing, at three feet from the ground (in 1793) twelve feet in girth. The whole building, in front, was taken down in 1 792 ; and on the fite of it are erected fome fmall houfes. The fmall part left ftanding behind, (and which contains the old rooms) has been new-fronted, and is in the occupa- tion of Mrs. Perry. The whole of this old palace was pur- chafed, in 1786, by Mr. Thomas Callaway, Iteward of Guy's Hofpital, of the reprefentatives of fc-liab Breton, Efq. Enfield Park, part of this ancient royal demefne, is the feat of Samuel Clayton, Efq. In this parifh alfo are feve- ral villas ; particularly, Forty Hall, the feat of Edmund Armtlrong, Efq. faid to have been built by In igo Jones; Eaft Lodge, which had been occafionally ufed by Charles I, as a hunting feat ; Weft Lodge ; and North Lodge, (all three held by leafe under the crown by the guardians of the Duchefs of Chandos, a lunafic) the latter in the occupation of Thomas James, Efq ; a large new-built houfe on Beech Hill, the feat of William Franks, Efq. and the handfome villa of Rawfon Hart Boddam, Efq. late Governor of Bom- bay. See Soi4tbgate, South Lodge, and Trent Place. ENGLEFIELD GREEN, in the parifh of Egham, but in the county of Berks, is delightfully lituated on the fum- mit of Cooper's Hill, in theroad that leadsthrough VVindfor Great Park to Reading. Among fome good houfes here, is the handfome feat of Mrs. Hervey. EPPING, a town in EfTex, 16 miles from London. The markets, which are on Thurfday for cattle, and on Friday for provifions, are kept in Epping Street, a hamlet r.l>out a mile and a half from the church. The butter made in this part of the county, and known in London by the nnme of JKpping butter, is in particular efteem, and fells at a higher price than any other. See Copped Hall. EPPING FOREST, a royal chafe, extending from Ep- ping 92 E S H ping almort to London, was anciently a very extenfive dif- trict, and, under the name of the Foreft of Eflex, included a great part of the county. It had afterward the name of Waltham Foreft, which has long yielded to its prefent ap- pellation. To this foreft that of Hainault, which lies to the foutheaft, was once, it is fuppofed, an appendage. Both thefe forefts are adorned with many feats and villas. A (lag is annually turned out on this foreft, on Eafter Mon- day, for the amufement of the London iportfmen. See Hainault Foreft. EPSOM, a town in Surry, 14! miles from London. Its mineral waters, which ifluefrom a rifing ground near Afh- ted, were difcovered in 1618, and foon became famous; but, for many years paft, they have been negledled, and the public rooms are gone to decay. Horie-races are annually held on the neighbouring downs. The town extends about a mile and a half, in a femicircle, from the church, to Dur- dans, the feat of Mrs. Kenworthy. There are many fine feats in the neighbourhood, belide Durclans; as a feat oa Woodcote Green, belonging to William Northey, Efq. Lord of the Manor : Woodcote Park, the late Lord Balti- more's, now the feat of Lewis Teflier, Efq. and Pit Place,, fd called from its (ituation, being in a chalk-pit. It was built by the late Mr. Belcher, and is a very whimfical but elegant retirement. The laft proprietor, Mr. Fitzherbert, made great improvements in it: the drawing-room, con- fervatory, and aviary, in particular, are fuppofed to be the mod beautiful of the kind in Surry. It is now the propery of Mr. Jewdwine. ERITH, a village in Kent, on the Thames, 14 miles from London. Sec Belvedere lioufe. ESHER, a village on the road to Guilford, 16 miles from London. See Claremont and ESHER PLACE, the feat of the late Right Hon. Henry Pelharn, and now of his daughter, Mifs Pelham, is a Go- thic flructure of brick, with ftone facings to the doors and windows. It was anciently one of the feats of the prelates of Winchefter, was built by BiQiop Wainfleete, and greatly improved by Cardinal Wolfey, when he held that fee in conjunction xvith thofe of York and Durham. The whole wab rebuilt by Mr. -Pelhamj in the fame ftyle as the origi- nal, ESHER PLACE. 93 rial, arid after the defign of Kent, except the two towers in the body of the houfe, which belong to the old ftrudture. In one of thefe towers is a very curious winding ftaircafe, which has excited the admiration of many eminentarchitects. This noble manfion is fituated in a low vale, on the banks of the river Mole, which is approached, by a circu- lar fweep, through a declining lawn. This river winds pleafantly through the grounds, and forms a very beautiful piece of water. On the left, entering the park, at fome diftance, the ground takes a ferpentine form; and the heights being planted with clumps of firs and other treea, have a rich and bold effect. On a further advance, to the right, the eye is attracted by a fine open country. An ele- gant fummer-houfe, fituate on the moft elevated fpot in the park, commands a variety of rich and pleafant profpeets. Among the nearer views, are Richmond Hill, Hampton Court, Harrow on the Hill, Windfor Caftle, the windings of the Thames, &c. and, on the other fide, are Claremont, and other fine feats Another building, called The Bower, is overhung with ivy, the mafly foliage of which is at once beautiful and picturefque. Almoft every ftep affords a new and pleafing object ; and, to enrich the fcene, the river frequently prefents itfelf through the trees, or in full view from an open fpace ; and it is again obfcured by the inter- vention of fome object, perhaps not lefs pleafing. Thefe enchanting fcenes are immortalized in the charm* ing poetry of Thomfon : Ether's graves, Where, in the fweeteft folinide, embrac'd By the foft winding* of the Client Mole, From courts and fenates Pelham findk repofe. ^ And the unaflumnig mufe of Dodfiey has feated the Ge- nius of Gardens In the lorely vale Of Eflier, where the Mule gUdct, lingering; loth To leave fuch fcenes of fweet fimplicicy. The philofopher too will here find fubjects of medita- tion; efpecially when he is difpofed to reflect on the infta- bility 94 ETON. bility and vanity of all earthly grandeur. To this place (theu called Ajbcr} was the magnificent Wolfey command- ed to retire, ju It after he had perceived, for the firft time,, that he had for ever loft the favour of his fovertign; and the great mafter of the human heart has made him give utter- ance to his feelings in this affecting exclamation : Nay, then, farewell ! I have touch' J the highclt point of all my greatnefs; And, from that full meridian of my glory , I haite now to my fetting : I ftull fall Like a bright exhalation in the evening, And no rrua fee me more. The world that had paid him fuch abject court during his profperity, now deferted him (all but the faithful Crom- well) on this fatal reverfe of fortune. He himfelf was much dejected with the change, and from the fame turn of mind which had made him fo vainly elated with his gran- deur, he felt the itroke of adverfity with double rigour. In full-blown dignity lee Wolfey (land, Law in his voice, and fortune in his hand : To him the church, the realm, their pow'rs confign, Through him the rays of regal bounty (hine \ Turn'd by his nod the ft ream of honour flows: His frhile alone fccurity bcftows. Still to new heights his refticfs wifhes foar ; Claim leads to claim, and pow'r advances pow'r ; Till conqueft unrcfifted ceas'd to pleafe, And rights fubmifted, left him none to feize. At length his fov'reign frowns the train of ftate Mark the keen glance, and watch the fign to hate. \Vhere*erhe turns, he meets a (hanger's eye; His fuppliants fcorn him, and his followers fly. Now drops at once the pride of awful ftatc, The golden canopy, the gtitt'ring plate, The regal pahce, the luxurious board, The liveried army, and the menial lord. With age, with cares, with maladies opprefs'd, He feeks the refuge of monaftic reft. Grief aids difeafe, remember'd folly flings, And his laft fighs reproach the faith of kings. JOHNSON. ETON, a village on the Thames, in Bucks, oppofzte Windfor, famous for its royal college and fchool, founded by F A i 95 ty Henry VI, in 1440, for the fupport of a provoft and feven fellows, and the education of feventy youths in clafii- cal learning. It con fills of two quadrangles; one appro- priated to the fchool, and the lodging of the matters and fjholars; in the midft of which is a copper ftatue of the founder, on a marble pedeftal, erected at the expence of Dr. Godolphin. In the other quadrangle are the apartments of the Provoft and Fellows. The library is one of the fineft .in England. The chapel is a (lately ftruclure, apparent- Jy by the fame hand who defigned King's College, Cam- bridge. At the weft end of this chapel is a raaiWe llatue, by Bacon, of the " ill-fated Henry." ' The feventy King's fcholars, as thofe are called who are on the foundation, when properly qualified, are elected, on the firft Tuefday in Auguft, to King's College in Cam- bridge, but are not removed till there are vacancieb in that college, and then they are called according to feniority; and after they have been three years at Cambridge, they claim a fellowftiip. Befide thofe on the foundation, there are feldom left than 300 noblemen and gentlemen's fons, who board at the matter's houfes, or within the bounds of the college. The fchool is divided into upper and lower, and each of thefe into three clafTes. To each fchool there is a matter and four affiftants. The revenue of the college amounts to about 5000!. a year. EWEL, a market- town in Surry, 13 miles from Lon- don. Here a fpring. breaks out in different fpots, and 'be- comes the head of a fine ftream, called Hog's Mill River, that fells into the Thames at Kingfton. Here are the elegant feat and pleafure-grounds of the late Philip Rowden, Efq. and the manfionof bir George Glyn, Bart. T7AIRLOP, a celebrated oak, in the parifh of Barking, anil foreft of Hainault, in EfTex. Sec Hainaull Forejl. FAIRY HILL, a villa at Mottingham, a hamlet of the city of Rochefter, near Eltham, in Kent, was many years in the occupation of the late Earl Bathurft, who greatly im- proved 96 FRO proved the grounds, It is now the rcfidence of John Ran* dalU Efq. FETCH AM, a village near Leatherhead, in which is the fine feat of Mrs. Hankey. FINCHLEY, a village in Middlefex, near a noted com- mon, feven miles from London, in the road to St. Alban's. FITZROY FARM, the villa of Lord Southampton, near Highgate. The grounds are kept in the higheft cul- tivation of the/erwer ornce, FITZWALTERS, the feat of Thomas Wright, Efq. at Shenfield, near the 2 1 mile ftone, in the road to Chelmsford. Being of an oftagon form, it is commonly called the Round Houfe. Mr. Wright has formed a fine ferpentine piece of water in the front of the houfe, over which he has built a beautiful little bridge ; and, next to the great road, he ha* creeled two lodges for porters. FOOT's-CRAY PLACE, 12 miles from London, in the road to Maidftone, was built by Bouchier Cleye, Efq. a pewterer of Cheapfide, after a defign of Pailadio's. It became the property of Sir George Yonge, Bai t. who mar- ried Mr. Cleve's daughter, and was fold for lefs than a third part of the original expence, to Benjamin Harence, Efq. The hall is octagonal, and has a gallery round, which leads to the bed chambers. It is enlightened from the top, and is very beautiful. The houfe, which is built of ftone, ftands on a rifing ground, with a gradual defcent to the water, which, from the houfe, appears to be a fmall river gliding through the whole length of the ground; and in that part of the water oppotite to the houfe, is a fine caf- cade; but this water, which appears to be fuch a pretty na- tural dream, is au artificial one brought from the river Cray. FROGMORE HOUSE, near Windfor, lately the feat of the Hon. Mrs. Egerton, of whom it was purchafed by her Majefty, who has made very confiderable additions to the houfe and gardens. The houfe adjoining, the refi- ttence of the late Mrs. Macartney, has been taken down, and its gardens added to thofe of her Majefty. In differ- ent parts of the grounds, Gothic temples, rural huts, &c. have been erected. Thefe give relief to the gardens, which, from their being a dead flat, would otherwife have too FULHAM. 97 too great a famenefs. Nearly adjoining, on the oppofite tide of the road, is a neat houfe, the feat of the late Earl o r Pomfret, as Ranger of the Little Park, within the limits of which it is fituated. Near the houfe is the Queen's Dairy. FULHAM, a village of Middlefex, fituated on the Thames, oppofite Putney, to which it has a wooden bridge. It is four miles from London: and to the prelates of that fee the manor belonged a confiderable.time before the conqueft. In the churchyard are the tombs of the Bifhops Compton, Robinfon, Gibfon, Hayter, Terrick, and Lowth. The epifcopal palace, on the bank of the Thames, is neither of a very ancient date, nor does it contain any thing remark- able : but the gardens have been very curious. They were tirft noted in the time of Bifliop Grindall, one of the eadieft encouragers of botany, and the firft who imported the ta- mariflk-tree into this country, about o the year 1560. Bifhop Compton, who was himfelf an excellent botaniil, made them ftill more celebrated by the introduction of many new plants and foreft trees, particularly from North Ame- rica. Ofthefe, the following only were remaining, on a furvey of the garden in 1793; and thefe may be regarded with fome veneration by the botanift, as the parent-flocks of their refpeftive races in this kingdom. The girths, which were accurately taken at three feet from the ground, are here given, with their computed height: Girth Height F. I. feet. Acer Negundo, Afh-leaved Maple 64 4^; Cnprejfus Semfeyvivens, Upright Cyprefs 2 3 30 'Jttnifems Virgtniana, Virginian Red Cedar 25 20 Juglans Nigra, Black Walnut-tree II 2 70 Pinus Pinafter, Chefter Pine 1 O 80 Quercus Alba, White Oak 7 i r 70 ^uercus Suber, Cork-tree 10 10 45 ' Acer Ruhrum, Scarlet- flowered Maple 43 40 ^uercus Hex, Ever green Oak So 50 Gleditjia Tricanthus, Three-thorned Acacia, on the lawn . 8 3 Another, near the "-Porter's Lodge 8 u On the fide of the Thames are likewife the handfome "villas of Dr. Milman, Sir Philip Stephens, Bart. Sir Andre\v K .Snape G I D Snape Hammond, Dr. Cadogan, and Mrs. Chauncey ; and Stourton Houfe, a beautiful cottage, the property and refi- dence of William Sharp, Efq. See It'alham Green. GATTON, in Surry, 19 miles from London, in the road to Reigate, was formerly a very populous place, but now only a mean village. Ever fince the reign of Henry VI, it'has fent Members to Parliament, who are re- turned by its Conftable, annually chofen at the Lord of the Manor's 'court, by feven electors. At the entrance of this place from London, is Upper Gatton Houfe, the pro- perty of William Petrie, Elq. and refidence of Mark Cur- vie, Efq. This is furrounded by fine plantations, and com- mands rich and extenfive profpe&s. A mile further is Gatton Park, or Lower Gatton Houfe, a new and beauti- ful ftrufture. This is the m an fion- houfe, which carries with it the entire property of the borough, and was pur- chaftd by Mr. Petrie of Robert Ladbroke, Efq. for i io,oool. The approach to this houfe is thought to equal any thing of the kind in the kingdom. From the lodge, which is on the fummit of the hill leading to Reigate, the road winds beautifully down the park, for a mile, amid woods and groves of fir; prefenting, here and there, through breaks, fome enchanting views of the country below. From the fouth front of the houfe, the profpefts are rich, various, and extenfive. At the foot of the doping eminence on which it is lituated, is a fine lake of 40 acres, enriched with two beautiful well-planted iflands, the haunts of fwans and other kinds of water-fowl. The adjacent country is finely broken and diverfified by wood-crowned hills and luxuriant vales. Farther on is Ladbroke Houfe, the refi- dence of Mifs Ladbroke. GIDEA HALL, the feat of Richard Benyon, Efq. near Rumford, was originally a venerable manfion, bugun in the reign of Edward IV, by Sir Thomas Cooke, whofe fuf- ferings during the civil wars, obliged him to leave it unh- nifhed at his death, in 1478. Sir Anthony, his grandfon, rme of the preceptors of Edward VI, finished it in the reign of Elizabeth; whom he had the honour of entertaining GOBION3. 99 in 1568*. Queen Mary de Medicis was lodged here, in 1637. It was purchafed by Sir John Eyles, Bart, who took it down, and built the prefent ftruclure, which he fold, in 1745, to Governor Benyon. The houfe has been lately raifed and enlarged by his fon, Mr. Benyon, who has much improved the grounds by plantations, and a fine piece of water, which the great road crofles, over a bridge of three elliptic arches, defigned by Wyatt. GOB1ONS, in the psrifh of North Mims, Herts, fb named from the Gobions, its ancient lords, was afterward the feat of Laciy More, mother-in-law of that illu'ftrious character Sir Thomas More; on whofe execution it was wrefted from her by the tyrant Henry, notwithstanding it was her jointure from her fit ft hulband. This venerable manfion, once famous for its fine gardens in the ancient tafte, is now the property of John Hunter, Efq. who here devotes his attention to tillage and grazing. His teams and ploughs are drawn by oxen, which is a great fmgula- rity in this county. * Sir Anthony Cooke was particulaily fortunate in his four daughters, all eminent for their literary attainments. Mildred, the deleft, was for- ty-two years the wife of William Lord Burleigh. She was learned hi the Creek, tongue, and wrote a letter in that language to the Unmrfity r-f Cambridge. She had great political talents, was a patror.efs of literature, and diftinguilhed for her numerous charities. Anne, the fecond, was ths fecond wire of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper, and mother of thcgrr.;t Lord St. Alban's. Eminently (killed in Greek, Latin, and Ital.an, (he had the honour of being appointed Governefs to Edward Vf. To her iu- lirudions was probably owing the furprifing knowledge of that y(. ; prince. Her font Ar.thony and Francis were not a liitte indebted tor ti.fi reputation they acquired, to the pains taken with them, by this excellent woman, in their tender years. When they grew up, they found in her out-peniioners. tach of the mariners bas a weekly allowance of fe,veu loaves, weighing 16 ounces each; .three pounds of beef, two of mutton, a pint of peafe, a pound G IT N Mfc arpmvnd- and a quarter of cheefe, two on n res of hotter,.. 14 quarts of b*rer, and is. tobacco- money : the tobacco- money of the boatfwains is as. 6d. a week each ; that of the mates is. 6d, and that of the other officers in proportion to their rank : befi Je which, each common penfioner receives^, once in two years, a fuit of blue, a hat, three pair of flock- ing?, two pair of fhees, five neckcloths, thiee fliirts, and: two nightcaps. This hofpital has about TOO Governors, compofed of the' nobility, and great officers of ftate. The principal officers, of the houfe, with their annual falaries, are, the Mafteiv loool. Lieutenant-Governor, 300!. Treafurer, 200!. three Captains, each zool. fix Lieutenants, each icol. two Chap- lains, each lool. a Phyfician and Surgeon, each iool. a Clerk of the Checque, icol. Auditor, icol. GROVE, near Watford, rhe feat of the Ear! of Claren- don. The late Earl greatly improved the houfe and park, GROVE, a thatched eottage, the romantic retreat of-J. Bocktt, Efq. at the foot of Box-hill, near Mickleham. GROVE HOUSE, the beautiful villa of Mrs. Luther,, at Chifwick, feated on the Thames, ia a very defirable and fequeftered fpot. The premifes, containing 80 acres, are in- elofed within a brick wall. The paddock abounds with a great number of old walnut-trees, and Spanifti chelhuts, the fruit of which has been known to produce 8bl. a year. GROVE HOUSE, the feat of Philip GodfaH, Efq. on an eminence on the verge of Hatnpftead Heath, with plea- fure-grounds, and a ten-ace that commands a delightful profpeft. GROVE HOUSE, the feat of Lady Downger Onflow,. at Old \Vindfor, built by Mr. Bateman, uncle to- the pre- fent Lord Bateman. This gentleman made it a point, in his travels, to take notice of every thing that pleafed him in the monafteries abroad; and, on his return to England^, he built this houfe ; the bed-chambers of which he con- trived like the cells of mouks, with a refectory,, and every other appendage of a monaftery, even to a cemetery, and a coffin, infcribed with the name of a fuppofitious ancient bifhop. Some curious Gothic chairs, bought at a fale of thecuriofities in this houfe, are now at Strawberry Hill. GUNNERSBURY HOUSE, a noble feat, in the pariflv- La. of. 112 HACKNEY. of Baling, in Middldex, It commands an rxtenfive and beautiful profpert; and was built for the celebrated Ser- jeant Maynard*, in 1663, by Webbe, a pupil of Inigo Jones. Of the rcprefentatives of the Serjeant it was pur- ihafcd, in 1740, by Henry Furnefe, Efq. who employed Kent to enlarge and alter the gardens. In 1761, it was (uurhafed for thej'nncefs Amelia, after whofe death it was fold, in 1788, to Colonel Iron fide, who ibid it, in 1792, to Walter Stirling, Efq. In 1 794, it was purchafed by An- drew Stirling, Efq. who fold it lately to Mr. Crawford, a gentleman from the Eaft Indies. The chapel was added by the Princefs Amelia, who, it is faid, expended above 2o,,ocol. on the pn-mifes. The trees ii> and .about the paddock are well grouped, and ex- hibit fome very pleafing fcenery. H HACKNEY, a large and populous village to_the N. E. of London. T'v- parifli has feverai hamlets, among which are Upper an . vcr Clapton on the north; Dor- .-eiton, Shacklewell, ana Kingfton, on the weft; and Ho-- inerton on the eaft. 'I he prtfent parifli church is an oid Gothic ftrudijre. Adjoining to the churchyard, a new one, on a larger fca'e, was begun, in 17^1, in purfu- ance of an act of Parliament for that purpofe. It is cover- ed in, but is not yet finished. On the S. fide of the churchyard was an ancient manfion, many years a boarding fchool for young ladies. In one of the windows were the arms of James I, Charles I, the Elec- tor Palatine, and the Duke of Holftein, brother of Queen Anne of Denmark. Thefe arms, it is conjectured, were placed there, to commemorate fome entertainment given to thefe illufti ious perfonages. This houfe belonged, in the reign of Charles II, to . ( Sir Thomas Vyner, fon of the Sir Robert Vyner, of whoie familiarity with that Monarch, a pleafant ftory is told. in the Spectator, No. 462. It was entirely demolished this year. * When this grtat hwy:r Civil appc:ied b.f^re Ki-ig William, after the Revolution, being then at a very ; . :':i.:t mo.iarch ooierved to him, that h: 1'uppokd he hid furvived ;i if the g o.it I.uvyers of hi t'nrc. " Yes," a')lVerei the Serjeant, " ani if" your MajciVy h\i not fca- i'ji;jl>!y comi over, i .'auu!J havx i'ucvivcd tht la.v kfclt." At IT A I At that period when the refidences of our- Princes and Nobility were fcattered over the metropolis and its environs, . Hackney was diftmguiflied by capital manfions. At Clap- ton is Brooke Houfe, formerly the feat of a nobleman of that name, now a receptacle for lunatics. An -ancient houfe in Well Street, let in tenements to poor people, and called'- St. John's Palace, is fuppofed to have been the reu" deuce of. the Prior of the order of St. John of Jerusalem. A fpacious manfion, at the corner of the road leading to - Doilefton, and now letas a lodging-houfe, was the proper- ty and refidence of John Ward, hiq. M. P, whom Pope has- thus " damned to evedafting fame:" Riches, I No grace of Heaven, or token of th' eledl: Given to the fool, the mad, the vain, the ev'.t, . To Ward, to VVa:ei>, Cbartres, and the Devi;. Hackney was the ftrfl village near London that \vas ac- commodated with carnages for occ-nonal paflenger?; ,ani hence the origin of^the name of hac .cney-coaches-.^ In this pariftv, a little to the fouth of Lea Bridge arev finiated the Temple Mil's, fo called from having. once been ' part of the poffeffions of the Knights -Templars, as -they were, afterward, on the extirpation of that order, of the-' Knights of St. John. They are now ufed for preparing, lead; and, at the Wick, are-fome filk mills. iW Nezu CV- Ifge. H Al)LEY, a village in Middlefex, near Bamef, had once an hermitage, called Monktwn Hadley. The churclv is built with, flint: over the weft door is the date 1498, aiui the fculpture of a rofe and a wing. On th top of- the ftee-f })le is an iion pitch- pot, intended as a beaoon. Hence the view of EiTex, over the, trees, is beautiful. On Hadley- Green is the handfome feat of Peter Moore, Efq., See Dtt- bam Park, NFW Lodge, and Wntham* Park. . HA1NAULT FOREST, is fituated to the-S. E. of Epv ping Foreft, in Efleo:. In this foreft, about a mile, from- Barking Side, {lands an oak, which has been known through < many centuries, by the nameof-Fairlop.' " The- tradition of. the country," fays Mr. Gilpin, in his Remarks on Forert Sccnu'v, " traces "it half way up the Chriftian era. It- is 1,3* fuJJ.- H4. HAINAULT FOREST. ftill a noble tree, though it has fuffered greatly from the de- predations of time. About a yard from the ground, where its rough fluted ftem is 36 feet in circumference, it divides into eleven vaft arms, yet not in the horizontal manner of an oak, but rather in that of a beech. Beneath its fhade, which oveiiureads an area of 300 feet in circuit, an annual fair has long been held on the ad of July; and no booth is fuffered to "be erected beyond the extent of its boughs. But as their extremities arc now become faplefs, and age is yearly curtailing their length, the liberties of the fair feem to be in a very defponding condition. The honour, how- ever is greaf. But honours are often accompanied with inconveniencies; and Fairlophas fuffered from its honour- able diftinftions. In the feafting that attends a fair, fires are often neceffary ; and no places feem 10 proper to make them in, as the cavities formed by the decaying roots of the tree. This practice has brought a more fpsedy decay on Fairlopthnn it mi^ht otherwise have fuffered." But this tree is now fenced round with a clofe paling, about five feet hi^h. Almoft all the extremities of its branches have been fa wed off, and Mr. Forfyth's compofition applied to thero, to preferve them from decay ; and the injury which the trunk of the tree had fuftained from the lighting of fires in the cavities, has been repaired, as much as poffible, by the fame compofition. On one of the branches is fixed a board, with this infcnption: " All good foreilers are requefted not to hurt this old tree, a plafter having been lately ap- plied to his wounds." Maay years ago, Mr. John D:iy, a worthy, but whimlical character, in Wapping, ufed annually to go and dine with his friends, on beans and bacon, under this tree; from which circumftance originated the annual fair now held under it. Mr. Day had his coffin made out of one of the largeft arms of this tree, and kept it many years by him. Among the numerous focieties that have been formed, fince the revival of the fafhionable amufement of archery, that of " The Hainault Forefters" is not the lead diftin- guifhed, as the principal ladies and gentlemen of the county belong to the aflbciation, and, at certain times, march in proceflion round thii venerable father of the fylvan race. They are drefled in an elegant uniform, and attended by a ' band HAL 115 band of rmific, and all " quality, pride, pomp, and circum- ftance of glorious archery." HALING HOUSE, the ancient feat and fine park of William Parker Hamond, Efq. at Croydon. Charles Howard, the celebrated Lord Admiral, in 'the reign of Eli- zabeth, held it by a leafe of the Crown, and died here, in 1624. The fine grove in the park contains a great num- ber of exotics and evergreens; a circumftanoe which is thus celebrated by the late William Whitehead, in a poem, entitled, " Anfwer to an Epiftle from a Grove in Derby- ihire to a Grove in Surry:'' I envy not, I fwear and vow, The temples or the fhades of Srow ; Nor Java's groves, whofc arms difplay Their bloffoms to the riling day; Nor Chili's woods, whofe fruitage gleams, Ruddy beneath his fetcing beams; Nor Teneriffa's forefts lhaggy, Nor Chin-i's varying Sharawaggi : Nor all that has been fung or (aid Of i'indui, or of Windfor's fliade. MALL BARN, at Beaconsfield, is celebrated as the feat of Waller the Poet. It is remarkable, that this great man, who was born at Colefhill, toward the decline of life bought a fmall houfe, with a little land, on his natal fpo-t ; obferving, that he fhould be glad to die, like the flag, where he was roufed." This, however, did not happen. ' ; When he was at Beaconsfield," fays Johnfon, " he found his legs grow tumid : he went to Windfor, where Sir Charles Scarborough then attended the King,^and requefted him, as both a friend and phyfician, to tell him what that fuelling meant. " Sir," anfwered Scarborough, " your blood will run no longer." Waller repeated fome jines of Virgil, and went home to die. As the difeafe increaied upon him, he compofed himfelf for his departure; and calling upon Dr. Birch to give him the holy facrament, he defired his children to take it with him, and made an earned declaration of his faith in Chriftianity. It now appeared what part of his converfation with the great could be remembered with delight. He related, that being I l6 HAM being pvefent when the Duke of Buckingham talked pro- fanely before King Charles, he faid, to him, " My Lord, I am a great deal older than your Grace, and have, I be- lieve, heard more arguments for atheifm than ever your Grace did; but I have Jived long enough to fee there' is nothing in them, and fo I hope your Grace will." This celebrated poet died at Beaconsfield, in 1687, at the age of 8a. A handfome monument was creeled to his memory, by his foil's executors, in 1700, on the eaft fide of the churchyard, near the family vault, where an old walnut-tree is remaining, at the weft end of the monu- ment, incloied within the iron rails around the tomb. Part of the branches hanging over the fpiral pillar that rifes from the monument, has a pleafmg efFecl, and hap- pily illuftrates the rebus alluded to in the family arms, which is a walnut-leaf. The Latin infcription on the mo- nument is by Rymer, and is to be feen in every edition of our poet's works. The houfe is the property of Edmund Waller, 'Efq. one of his defendants. The gardens were considered, before the improvements of thefe times, as very magnificent. Mr. Waller has let the houfe to Mr. Blair. HALSTEAD PLACE, the feat and park of George Arnold, Efq. 18 miles from London, on the road to Se- venoaks. HAM COMMON, a village between Peterfham and Kingfton, to which laft it is a hamlet. Here is the villa of the earl of Buckinghamihire, and in the houfe now the re- fidence of Lady Douglas, lived the Duchefs of Queens- berry, the celebrated patronefs of Gay. HAM, EAST, a village in Efiex/ between Weft Ham and Barking. In this parifli, is a fpring called Miller's Well, the water of which is efbeemed to be exceedingly good, and has never been known to be frozen, or to vary in its height. A part of Kent, in the parifh of Woolwich, lies on this fide of the Thames, and divides this parifli from that river. See Green Street Houfe. HAM FARM, the feat of the Earl of Portmore, at Weybridge, in Surry, a harifome brick ftruclure, with a fine lawn before the garden front. The grounds confift of 500 acres, 1 30 of which are laid out for pleafure, bende.a paddock . HAM HOUSE., Iiy paddock of 60 acres. Here is a fine command of water, there being two navigable rivers ; the Thames, which comes with a fine bending courfe by the fide of the ter- race ; and the Wey, which runs directly through the groun'ds, and joins the Thames at the terrace. There i.s a fwing bridge over the Wey, which may be turned afide at pleafure, to let boats and other reficls pafs. The Wey is navigable to Guilford. What is called the Vir- ginia Water, runs from Windfor Great Park, and flows hwher through Woburn Farm. The terrace next the Thames is beautiful ; and there are good views from it, and other parts of the gardens. This place was fii ft beau- tified by the Countefs of Dorchefter, Miftrefs of James II. HAM HOUSE, the feat of the Earl of Dv fart, fitnate on the Thames, near Richmond, but in the pariih of Kingfton, was built in 1610, and wa& intended, it is (aid, for the refidence of Henry Prince of Wales. Charles II granted it to the Duke and Duchefs of Lauderdale, and to the heirs of the latter by her firft huiband, Sir Lionel Tolle- imche, Bart.* It then underwent considerable altera- tions, and now remains a very curious fpecimen of a man- fion of that age. The ceilings are painted by Verrio, and the rooms are ornamented with that mafly magnificence of decoration then in fafhion. The furniture is very rich ; and even the bellows and bruflies, in fome of the apart- ments, are of folid filver, or of fitlagiee. In the centre of. the houfe is a large hall, furrounded by an open gallery. The baluftrades of the grand ftaircafe, which is remark- ably fpacious and fubftantial, are of walnut-tree, and orna- mented with military trophies. On the W. fide of the; houfe is a gallery, 92 feet in length, hung with portraits. Ham Houle contains fome fine pictures by the old matter?, among which the works of Vandcrvelde and Wonvermans are the mod confpicuous. The principal portraits are, the Duke of Lauderdale and the Earl of Hamilton, C. Janflen; the Duke and Duchefs of Lauderdale, Lely; the Duke, iu his robes of the Order of the Garter, Ditto ; Charles II, who fat for thid picture for the Duke; Sir John Maitland, * This hily was one of the two daughters and coheirefles of William Murr.iy, L'arl of Dy art ; which title w.ss gianted to herfdf and hcirk, j Charlfs II. The great John Dtilce of Ar ; ;ylf, her gundllin, *nJ hii bro- ther nd fuccellbr, Archibald, were born tit chis houfe. Chancellor I iS HAM Chancellor of Scotland ; Sir Henry Vane ; William Mur- ray, firft Earl of D\ fart ; Catharine, his Wife, a beautiful picture, in water colours, Uolkins ; Sir Lionel Tollemache, lii ft huiband to the Duchefs of Lauderdale ; General Tolle- mache, who was killed in the expedition againft Bieft ; James Stuart, Duke of Richmond, a very fine picture, by Vandyck; and the late Countefs of Dyfart, Reynolds. HAM, WEST, a village in EOex, one mile S. of Strat- ford. Near the Abbey Mills, are the fite and remains of a monaftery, called the Abbey of Stratford Lanthornc', founded in 1135, the demefne of which, in this parifh, in- cluded 1 500 acres ; and they had manors in many counties. A gateway of the abbey is' ftill {landing; and, adjoining. to the Adam and Eve public-houfe and tea-gardens, is one of the ftone arches of the abbey, where the ground has been much raifed. In the kitchen, is a carved graveftone, on which were once fome infcriptions cut in brafs. In the garden, is a ftone coffin, dug up in 1770; and, in 1 792, fe- veral urns, with three leaden coffins, an antique feal, and fomc old coins, were dug up in a field adjoining to the Adam and Eve. Mr. Holbrook, the proprietor of the field, after having built walls with fome of the ftones, fold large quantities of them to great advantage. In the fame field, is one of the chapels nearly entire, and now a ftable. HAMMERSMITH, a village in Middlefex, four miles from London, on the great weftern road, which, with Brook Green, Pallenfwick or Stanbrook Green, and Shep- herd's Bulh, forms the Hammerfmith divifion, orjide, as- it is termed, of the parilh of Fulham. Here is a nunnery, which (according to very refpeclable information commu- nicated to Mr. Lyfons, Vol. II. p. 420) took its rife from the following circumftance. In 1669, Mrs. Bedingfield and another lady fet up a boarding- fchool at Hammerfmith, for young ladies of the Roman Catholic perfuafion. Soon after its inftitution, the governefles and teachers having vo- luntarily obliged theinfelves to the obfervance of monaftic rules, it' obtained tht; name of a nunnery. Its celebrity as a Roman Catholic fchool has continued during the prefent century ; and moft of the fafhionable females among the Roman Catholics have received their education there. It has kept up its claim alfo to the title, of a nunnery, many devotee* HAMTSTEAD. 119 devotees having, from time to time, taken the veil, and doomed themfelves to voluntary feclufion. At prefent, ^1796) there are only three in the houfe. There is a cha- pel at the nunnery, and another at Brook Green, where, alfo, there is a Roman Catholic charity fchool. At a houfe on the water fide, now occupied as an acade- my by Air Jones, Queen Catharine, Dowager of Charles II, refided for fome years during the fummer feafon.-^In Mr. Cotton's houfe, alfo on the fide of the Thames, are two re- markably fine catalpa trees, each of them five feet in girth. Karnmerihiith has a chapel of eafe, which is a curacy, in the patronage of the Bifnop of London. See Brandenburg Houjf. H AMPFTEAD, a large and populous village in Middle- fex, (our mile*; from London. It lies on the declivity of a hill, on the fummit of which is an extenfive heath. The ^ine views of the metropolis, and of the diitant country, which are to be feen from the heath, and from moft parts of the village, are not the only beauties of the fcene: the home iandfcape, confifting of broken ground, divided into inclofures, and well planted with elms and other trees, is extremely picturefque. On the fide of the hill, to the eaft of the town, is a fpring of mineral water, ft r ongly impreg- nated with iron, which was formerly much frequented. Adjoining to it is a long room, uftd, when the wells were in fafhion, for promenades, public breakfafh, &c. It is now converted into a chapel of eafe. In the adjoining walks, feveral Roman fepulchral urns, vafes, earthen lamps, &c. were dug up, in 1774- To the S. W. of Hampftead was an ancient manfion- lioufe, called Belfyfe, the feat of many perfons of confe- quence from the reign of Henry VIII. In 17^0, it was converted into a place of public entertainment ; particular - Jy for mufic, dancing, and play ; and it was much fre- quented on account of its vicinity to London. It continu- ed open till the year 174$, when it experienced the caprice of fafhion. The old manfion has been pulled down fome years, and 911 its fite is a modern-built houfe. The eftate is held under the dean and chapter of Weftminfter, by the Earl of Chefterfield, whofe under tenant is Mr. Richardfon. A houfe in Hampftead, now the property of James Pil- grim, I2O HAMPSTEAD. grim, Efq. is hippofed to be that in which the celebrated Sir Henry Vane relided, at the time of the IU Iteration. It ;.l;n-w;;rd U'iongctl to Ur. Jot'eph Kutler, Hi /hop of Dur- ham, Author f the Analogy between Natural and Reveal- ed Religion. That prelate lived here many years, and or- nn men ted the windows with a confiderable quantity of Gained glafs. (principally fubjefts from Scripture) which (till remains there. On the fide of the hill, is an ancient building called The Chicken Houie, in a window of which are fmall portraits in fbined I- la is of James I and the Duke of Buckingham. Tradition Vays that it was a hunting feat of James II. Sir R.ich;.r"d > epper Arden has a beautiful villa near the church; and Lord Chancellor Loughborongh, and the Hon. ThoiTTiS Erfkine have alfo villas here. See Gr one act of prayer and praifr, With every milder grace infpirM, To make her lov'd, cfteem'd, admir'd: Crown'd with a cheerfulncfs that fhow'd, How pure the foutce from whence it flow'd: Such w.is the maid when in her bloom, Finding the appointed time was come, To deep (he funk, without one figh The faint may fleep, but cannot die. Reft undifturbM, ye much-';' merited pair, Tie foiling infanr, nd the rifing heir. Ak\ what avails it that the bloffoms (hoot, In early picmifeof matuver fruit, If de ah's chill harvl (ball nip their infant bloom: And wiilur ^11 tbeit honours in the tomb? Yet wctp not it, in life's allotted fhare, i>iU fltd their youth They 'knew not age's care. - HAMPTON, HAMPTON-COURT. 121 HAMPTON, a village of Middlefex, fituate on the Thames, oppofite the mouth of the river Mole. It is 14$. miles from London ; and here is a ferry over the Thames to Weft Moulfey, and a bridge to Eaft Moulfey. Ad- joing to this village is HAMPTON-COURT, a royal palace, fituate on the north bank of the Thames, two miles from Kingfton. It was magnificently built with brick, by Cardinal Wolfey, who fet up 280 filk beds for ftrangers only, and richly itored it with gold and filver plate; but it raifed fo much, envy againft him, that, to fcreen himfelf from its effecls, he gave it to Henry VIII, who, in return, fuffered him to live in his palace at Richmond. Henry greatly enlarged it, and it had then five fpacious courts adorned with build- ings, which, in that age, were greatly admired. Of the fplendour of this palace we have few remains. The ancient apartments ftill ftanding, having been origi- nally ufed merely as domeftic offices, can convey no idea of the times in which they were built. The principal part of the old palace was taken down in 1690; and the pre- fent ftru&ure was raifed by King William, under the di- reftion of Sir Chriftopher Wren. The grand faqade toward the garden extends 330 feet, and that toward the Thames 328. The portico and colon- nade, of duplicated pillars of the Ionic order, at the grand entrance, and indeed the general defign of thele elevations, are in a fuperior ftyle of magnificence. The park and gardens, with the ground on which the palace now ftands, are three miles in circumference. On a pediment in the front of the palace on this fide, is a bas- relief of the Triumphs of Hercules over Envy ; and facing it is a large oval bafin, anfwering to the form of this part of the garden, which is a large oval divided into gravel walks and parterres. At the entrance of the grand walk are two marble vaf.s of exquifite workmanfhip: one faid to be performed by Cibber, the father of the poet laureat, and the other by a foreigner : thefe pieces are reported to have been done as a trial of (kill; but it is difficult to determine which is the fineft performance. They are adorned with bas-reliefs; one representing the Triumphs of Bacchus, and the other M Amphitritc 122 HAMPTON-COURT. Amphitrite and the Nereids. At the bottom of this walk, facing a large canal which extends into the park, are two other large vafes, the bas-relief on one reprefenting the Judgment of Paris, and that of the other Meleager hunting the Wild Boar. In four of the parterres are four fine brafs ftatues. The firft is a gladiator. The original was performed by Aga- fias Dofitheus of Ephefus, and is in the Borghefian palace at Rome. The fecond, is a young Apollo; the third, a Diana; and the fourth, Saturn going to devour one of his children ; all after fine originals. On the fouth fide of the palace is the privy garden, which was funk ten feet, to open a view from the apartments to the Thames. In this garden is a fountain, with two grand terrace walks. On the north fide is a tennis court ; and beyond that, a gate which leads into the wildernefs. Farther on is the great gate of the gardens. Some of the genteel inhabitants of Hampton and its vicinity are indulged with a key, which enables them to vifit the palace and gardens by this gate. The ufual way of entering the palace is from the town, through four large brick piers, adorned with the lion and unicorn, &c. well carved on ftone. Faffing through a long court, on each fide of which are ftabling, we come next to the firft portal, decorated with the heads of four of the Caefars; namely, Tiberius, Vitel- lius, Trajan, and Adrian. Through this portal we pafs into a quadrangle, which leads to a fecond quadrangle, where, over the portal, is a beautiful clock, by Tompion, on which are the twelve figns of the zodiac, with the riling and fetting of the lun, the phafes of the moon, &c. In the front is a portal of brick, adorned alfo with four heads of the Caefars, without names. On the left hand of this quadrangle is the great old hall, in which Queen Caroline erected a theatre, wherein it was intended that two plays fliould be acted every week, dur- ing the continuance of the court there ; but only feven plays were performed in it, by the players from Drury- Lane, the fummer when it was raifed, and one afterward for the en- tertainment HAMPTON-COURT. 123 tertainment of the Duke of Lorrain, afterward Emperor of Germany. On the oppofite fide of this quadrangle is a ftone colon- nade of the Ionic order, which leads to the great ftaircafe, adorned with gilt iron baluftrades, creeled on porphyry. This ftaircafe, with the ceiling, was -painted by Verrio. At the top. on the left, are Apollo and the Mufes, at whofe feet fits Pan, and below them Ceres, holding a wbeat- fheaf; at her feet is Flora, furrounded by her attendants, and holding a chaplet of flowers; near her are the two river gods, Thame and Ifis, with their urns ; and a table in the middle, on which is a quantity of rich plate, decorat- ed with flowers. On the ceiling are Jupiter and Juno, with Ganymede riding on Jupiter's cngle, and offering the cup : Juno's pea- cork is in the front; one of the Parcce, with her fcifibrs, waiting for Jove's orders to cut the thread of life. Beneath is Venus on a fwan, Mars addrefling her as a lover, and Cupid on another fwan."- On the right hand are Pluto and Froferpine, Coelus and- Terra, Cybcle crown- ed with a tower, &c. Neptune and Amphitnte are in the front, and two attendants are ferving them with ne&ar and fruit. Bacchus is leaning on a rich ewer, and, accompa- nied by his attendants, places his left hand on the head of Silenus, who fits on an afs that has fallen down, and feems to catch at a table to which Diana above is pointing. The table is fupported by eagles : on one fide of it fits Romulus, the founder of Rome, with a wolf; and, on the other fide, i? Hercules leaning on his club. Peace holds a laurel in her right hand, and in her left, a palm over the head of ./Eneas, who feems inviting the twelve CaelEars, among whom is Spurina the foothfayer, to a celefiial banquet. Over their heads the genius of Rome hovers with a flaming fword, the emblem of deft ru A ion, and a bridle, the emblem of govern- ment. The next is the Emperor Julian writing at a table, while Mercury dictates to him. Over the door, at the head of the (lairs, is a funeral pile. From the ftaircafe we pafs into the Guard- Cbambtr^ which contains arms for 1000 men, placed in various forms. Here are the following portraits of Admirals: Sir John Jennings, -Sir John Leake r Admirals Churchill, Gradon, M a and 124 HAMPTON- COURT. ar.d Ecnhow, Sir John Wifhart, Sir Stafford Fai:bone, Lord Torrington, Sir Thomas Dilks, Lord Orford, Sir Charles Wager, Admiral Whetftone, Sir Thomas Hop- fon, Sir George Rooke, George Prince of Denmark, Sir Cloudfley Shovel, Admiral Beaumont, Sir John Munden. Lord Orford, is by Brockman ; Sir John Wifhart, and the laft feven are by Dahl ; and the others by KneJler. The King's 'Firji Prrfence-Cbamber, hung with tapeftry, repreftnting the ftories of Tobit and Tobias, and Midas. In this room is a fine picture, by Kneller, of King William, on a grey horfe ; the Marquis of Hamilton, Mytens ; and two pieces, one of architecture, the other of ruins, Rouf- feau. The Second Pre fence Climber , hung with tapeftry: the fubjeft, Abraham offering up Ifaac. Here are Chriftian IV, of Denmark, Vanfomer ; Ifaac and Rebecca, a iandfcape, Zucarelli ; and three pieces of ruins and landfcapes, Rouf- ieau. The Kite's Audience Clamber ^ hung with tapeftry, \vliii h rcprtiVnts God appearing ro Abraham, Abraham purcha- iing a buryingplace ior Sarah, and entertaining the three Angels. In this room is a Iandfcape with Moles, by Zu- carelli ; Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I, Honthorft: and two Madonnas, Corregio. ' The 'Draining Room, hung with tapeftry; the fubjecl, Abraham fending his fervam to get a wife for Ifaac, and Rebecca openir.g the trunks of treafure. Jn this room is a whole length of Charles I, by Vandyck : the Cornaro fa- mily, after Titian, by Old Stone; David with Goliah's head, Fetti ; and the Holy Family, Schidonc. The Kings State Bed Chamber, hung with tapeftry, repre- fenting the hiftory of Joflma. The ceiling, by Verrio, re- prefents Endyinion and Diana. On another part of the ceiling is a fine figure of Somnus, with his attendants. The paintings are Jofeph and his Miftrefs, Orazio Gentilefchi ; a Flower piece, Baptift; ditto, Bogdane; and Anne, Duch- efs of York, Lely. The Kings DreJJing Roam, the ceiling painted by Verrio; Mars is deeping in the lap of Venus, while fome Cupids fteal away his armour, and others are binding him with fetters ot roles. This room contains a Flower-piece by Old Baptift; HAMPTON-COURT. I 25 Baptift ; Flowers, Withoos; Dead Game, Van Aelft ; a Saint's Head, G. Douw ; Chrift and St. John, Da Vinci ; Francis I, of France, and his Queen, Jannet ; Refhemeer, Holbein; Angel and St. Peter, Steenwyck; Charles I, on horfeback, Vandyck ; the Great Mogul ; a Landfcape with figures, P. Brill; Lot and his Daughters, Poelemburg ; a Battle, Wouvermans; Diana and Nymphs bathing, Poel- emburg ; the Infide of a Church, with the Woman taken in Adultery, (the figures by Old Franks) Deneef; Henry VIII, Holbein ; Erafmus, Ditto ; a Woman finging, and a Man, G. Douw ; and a Flower-piece, Young Baptilt. In the Kings Writing Cldfet are the Shepherd's Offering, Old Palma; Queen Henrietta, after Vandyck, Gibfon ; Sacharifla, Ruflel; the Centaur carrying away the Wife of Hercules, after Julio Romano ; a Flower-piece, Bogdane ; Judith and Holofernes, P. Veronefe; a Magdalen's Head, Salfo Ferrato ; David and Goliah ; Adminiftration of the Sacrament, BafTan ; the Judgment of Paris, fiom Raphael; Nymphs and Satyrs, by Poelemburg ; a Landfcape, with Cattle, Vandervelde ; the Head of Cyrus brought to Tho- myris, Vincentio Malo ; Peter and the Angel, Steenwyck; a Landfcape, Wouvermans; a Peacock, Bogdane; the Vi- fitation, Carlo Maratti; Charles I, af Dinner, Bafian ; and a Flower-piece, Bogdane. Queen Mary's Clofet, hung with needle-work, faid to be wrought by herfelf and her maids of honour. The paint- ings are, the Virgin teaching Chrift to read, Guercino; Holy Family, Doflb de Ferrara ; Lord Darnley and his Brother, Luca deHeere; King of Bohemia at Dinner, BafTan; Charles V, initiated into the Church ; Queen of George I ; Mofes ftriking the Rock, Marco Rirci ; St. Je- rome, Mieris ; Mrs. Lemon, Vandyck ; George I; a Land- fcape, Dietrice; St. Francis, Teniers; a Madonna and St. John, Guercino ; a Lady; Bellini, the Matter of Titian, byhimfelf; a Bunch of Grapes, Verelft; a Woman, Pi- ombo ; the Shepherd's Offering, Ricci ; a Woman milking a* Goat, Bergen ; a Woman, Rembrandt ; the Afcenfion of the Virgin, Calvert; and a Landfcape, Pouffin. The keen's Gallery, hung with feven pieces of tapeftrv, after the famous paintings of Le Brun; I . Alexander's Tri um- phal Entry into Babylon ; 2. his Battle with Porus; 3. Him- M 3 fell 126 HAMPTON-COURT. felf and Bvicephalus ; 4. his Vifit to Diogenes ; 5. his Con- lultation with the Soothfayers ; 6. his Battle with Darius; 7. the Tent of Darius. The Beta's State Bed* Chamber, the ceiling painted by Thornhill ; Aurora is rifing out of the ocean, in her cha- riot, drawn by four horfes. The paintings are James 1 ; Queen Anne^ his Confort, both by Vanfomer ; Henry Prince of Wales, Mytens ;- the Duchefs of Brunfwick; Moreelze ; a Landfcape, Zucarelli ; and the portraits of George I, George II, Queen Caroline, and Frederic Prince of Wales. The Queen's Drawing Room, the ceilingpainted by Verrio; in the middle of which is Queen Anne in the character of Juftice; Neptune and Britannia holding a crown over her head.' This room has nine pictures, (formerly all in one piece of a great length) reprefenting a triumph of Julius Caefar, in water colours, upon canvafs, by And. Manregna. Over the two doors are Chrift and the Woman of Samaria, and another Scripture piece, by Ricci. The Queen's State Audience. Room, hung with tapeftry, reprefenting Melchifedec giving bread and wine to Abra- ham. In this are fix pictures, viz. a Lady; the Countefs of Lenox; Bacchus and Ariadne, Ciro Ferri ; Margaret, Queen of Scots, Mytens ; the Duke of Brunfwick; and his Duchefs. The Public Dining Rocm, in 'which the late King ufed to dine in ftate, is ornamented with the following pictures: Charles Elector Palatine ; four Ship-pieces, Vandervelde ; Bacchus and Ariadne, after Guido, Romanelli ; Princefs Elizabeth; Chrift in the Houfe of Lazarus, Ricci; the Pool of Bethefda, ditto; Baccio Bandinelli, Corregio; the Woman taken in Adultery, Ricci ; Prince Rupert, Mirevelt. In this room is the model of a palace that was intended for Richmond. The Prince of Wales' s Prefence Chamber, hung with tape- ftry, reprefenting the ftory ofTobit. In this room is a por- trait of Gondomar, the Spanifh Ambaffador, Blenberg ; Guzman, another Spanifh AmbafTador ; QUeen of France, Tout bus; Lewis XIII of France, Belcamp ; and Ahafue- rus and Either, Tintoret. The FriHCc (/Wales' s Drawing Room^ hung with tapeftry, reprefenting HAMPTON-COURT. 127 reprefenting Elymas ftruck with blindnefs, taken from one of the cartoons at Windfor. Here are the Duke of Wir- temburg, Mark Gerards ; the Queen of Philip II of Spain; Count Mansfeld, Mytens. The Prince of Wales s Bed Chamber has the Duke of Lu- nenburg, Mytens ; Alexander Duke of Parma ; a Spanifh Jslobleman, Pantoga ; and the Queen of ChrifHan IV of Denmark. In the Private Chapel \s the Lord's Supper, by Tintoret. In the Clofet next the Chapel, are George II ; Queen Ca- roline ; Jonah under the Gourd, Heemfkirk; a Landfcape; a Head, Artemifia Gentilefchi. In the Private Dining Room are eight Ship-pieces, fix of them by Vandervelde, four of which represents the defeat of the Spanifli Armada ; and over the chimney is the Earl of Nottingham, Zucchero. The Clofet next the Private Dining Room has the Murder of the Innocents, Brueghel ; and the Rape of the Sabines. The King's Private Drefflng Room is hung with tapeftry, reprefenting the Battle of Solebay ; and contains the por- traits of Sir John Lawfon, the Duke of Gloucefter, and the Earl of Sandwich. In the King's Private Bed Chamber area Friar and Nuns at a Banquet, Longepier ; and Sufannah ami the Elders, P. Veronefe. In the Clofet next the Private Bed Chamber are Jupiter and Europa, and two Madonnas. In the Council Chamber, formerly the Cartoon Gallery, are the Duke of Alva, Rubens ; the Deluge, BafTan ; the Judg- ment of Midas, Schiavone ; the Mufes in Concert, Tinto- ret ; the Shepherds' Offering, Old Palma ; Our Saviour and the Woman of Samaria, ditto; Charles I, after Van- dyck, Old Stone. In this room is the model of a palace that was intended to be built in Hyde Park. The Dining Row contains the portraits of nine celebrated beauties, viz. Countefles of Peterborough and Ranelagh, Lady Middleton, Mifs Pitt, Duc.hefs of St. Alban's ; CountefTes of EfTex and Dorfet ; Queen Mary, and the Duchefs of Grafton. We come next to the Queen's Staircafe, the ceiling painted by Vick. Here are Charles II and his Queen, with the Duke 128 HAMPTON. Duke of Buckingham, reprefenting Science in the habit of Mercury, while Envy is ftruck down by naked boys. The palace confifts of" three quadrangles : the firfl and fecond are Gothic, but in the third are the royal apartments, magnificently built of brick and ftone by King William III. The gardens are not in the prefent ftyle, but in that which prevailed fome years ago, when mathematical figures were preferred to natural forms. The celebrated Brown had his prefent Majefty's per- miffion to make whatever improvements in thefe gardens his fine imagination might fuggeft; but he declared his opi- nion, that they appeared to the bert advantage in their pre- fent ftate. Their regularity and grandeur are, indeed, more fuitable to the magnificence of a royal palace, than the more natural beauties of a private villa. At the extremity of the gardens, oppofite Thames Ditton, is the lodge belonging to the Duke of Gloucefter, as Ran- ger of Hampton-Court Park. It is called the Pavilion, and is a neat little ftructure. To this palace Charles the firft was brought by the army in 1647 ; and here " he lived for fome time,'' fays Hume, " with an appearance of dignity and freedom/' From this confinement, however, (for fuch in reality it was) he ef- caped in the fame year. His ferene highnefs William V, Prince of Orange, Stadtholder of the United Provinces, having been driven, from his country, by the fuccefsful termination of the French invafion, at the commencement of the year 179$, has refided in this palace ever fince, with his illuftrious confort. The apartments allotted to them are thofe call- ed The Prince of Wales's. ^ HAMPTON HOUSE, the elegant villa of Mrs. Gar- rick, at Hampton. When the late David Garrick pur- chafed the houfe, he gave it a new front, by Adam ; and the extenfive grounds were laid out with great tafte, under his own direction. Near the Thames he erected an elegant temple to Shakfpeare. On a pedeftal in this temple is the ftatue, by Roubiliat, of oxir immortal bard. The " Four Periods of an Election," by Hogarth, are the moft remark- able among a few 1 good pictures in this houfe. HAMPTON W JCK, a village in Middlefex, at the foot of H A R 129 of Kingfton Bridge. A patriot of this place has his memory recorded in a fine print of him, which the neighbours, who are fond of a walk in Bufhy Park, muft regard with venera- tion. It has under it this infcription : " Timothy Bennet, of Hampton Wick, in Middlefex, Shoemaker, aged 75, 1752. This true Briton, (unwilling to leave the world vvorfe than he found it) by a vigorous application of the laws of his country in the caufe of liberty, obtained a free paflage through Bufhy Park, which had many years been withheld from the people." HANWELL, a village, eight miles from London, in the road to Uxbridge. Its little .church, a neat ftru&ure of brick, was rebuilt in 1782. See Brentford. HAN WELL HOUSE, in the parifli of Harwell, the feat and park of William Harwood, Efq. HANWORTH PARK, in Middlefex, to the weft of Twickenham, lately the feat of the Duke of St. Alban's, \vas a favourite palace of Henry YIII; and here, in 1600, Queen Elizabeth dined and hunted. It has been recently fold to a carpenter, who, during the fummer feafon, lets it out in different apartments. See Kempton Park. HAREFitLD, a village in Middlefex, between Rick- manfworth and Uxbridge, 20 miles from London. Here Sir Edward Anderfon, Lord Chief Juflice of the Common Pleas in the reign of Qneen Elizabeth, had a feat ; which coming into the pofieffion of the late George Cooke, Efq. that gentleman rebuilt it ; and it is now the property of his fon, and the refidence of Lady Charlotte Finch. The old houfe was famous for the refidence of the Countefs of Der- by, before whom Milton's Arcades- was there prefented. *' I viewed this houfe,'' fays Mr. Warton, in his edition of Milton's Juvenile Poems, " a few years ago, when it was, for the moft part, remaining in its original ftate. Milton, when he wrote Arcades, was flill living with his father, at Horton, near Colnbrook." This Lady Derby, Dowager of Ferdinando the fifth Earl, married Lord Chanrellor Egerton, for whofe fon, John Earl of Bridgewater, Milton wrote his Comus. Harefield Place, in this parifh, is the feat of William Baynes, Efq. Near this is a villa, which Count Bruhl purchafed of the Treufdale family. His Ex- cellency has made many capital improvements in it ; having built, 130 H A R built, in particular, a fine obfervatory, and furniflied it with the belt mathematical inflru meats. HARE HALL, the elegant feat of Mr. Wr.llinger, 13 miles from London, on the rigbt hand of the road to CIvlniMord. In confifts of a centre and two wings, built of Itone, by Mr. Paine. HARLOW, a village in EfTex, 23 miles from London, on the road to Stortford. It had once a market, now dif- conti nued: but, on a common, two miles from the town, is an annual fair, on the yth of September, for horfes, cat- tle, &c. which is much reforted to by the neighbouring gentry. It is called Harlow Ihrfh Fair' See Pijh'wbury. HARMONDSWORTH, a village in Middlefex, two miles from Colnbrook. It has one of the largeft barns in England, whofe fupporting pillars are of Ifrone, and fuppef- ed to be of great antiquity. See Lcngford. HARROW ON THE HILL, in Middlefex, 10 miles from London, on the higheft hill in the county. This hill, infulated as it were, and rifing out of a rich 'vale, af- fords a variety of beautiful profpeds. The view toward the ealt is terminated by the metropolis; to the fouth by the Surry hills. Toward the north, it is the lead extenfive, being intercepted by the high ground about Stanraore and Harrow-weald: on this fide, the village of Stanmore, and Eentley Priory (the Marquis of Abercorn's feat) are the moft confpicuous objects. The view Coward the weft and fouthweft, which is very extenfive and beautiful, may be feen to the greateft advantage from the churchyard, whence the ground declines precipitately to Roxeth Common, where the fceneryis very pleafing: the diftant profpeft takes in Windfor Caftle, and a conliderable pai't of Berks and Buckinghamfhire. On the brow of the hill, defceiid- ing to Sudbury Common, is a fmall villa belonging to the Right Hon. Thomas Ord Powlett, with a beautiful garden and fhrubbery, which commands nearly the fame profpeft. On the brow of Sudbury Hill, is a villa called the Hermi- tage, now in the occupation of Mrs. Roberts. The manor-houfe of Harrow is the feat of Sir John. Rufhout, Bart. Another manor-houfe, called Headftone, is the property of John Afgill Bucknall, Efq. ; and a third, called Wemblcr, is the property of Richard Page, Efq. whofe HAT IJI whofe family have held it ever fince the year 1544; almoft the onh inftanre in Middlefex, fays Mr. Lyfons, of a family now exifting, who have been refident proprietors for two centuries and a half. The pnrifh church, with its lofty fpire, forms a very con- fpicuous objecl. But Harrow is chiefly celebrated for its freefchool, which now ranks among the firft public femi- naries in the kingdom. It was founded, in the reign of Elizabeth, by John Lypn, a wealthy yeoman of Prefton in this parifli. See Benttey Priory. HATCKLANDS,"the feat of George Sumner, Efq. five miles from Guilford, on the Epfom road, is a haadfome modern houfe, with a fmall park. HATFIELD, a market-town in Herts, 19! miles from London, was part of the revenue of the Saxon princes, till it was beftowed, by Edgar, on the monaftery of Ely, [in which it continued till that abbey was converted into a bifhopric in the reign of Henry I. It then became one of the residences of the prelates, who had no fewer than ten palaces belonging to the fee; and hence it was called Bifhop's Hatfield. It was alienated to the crown in the reign of Elizabeth. It had before been an occafional royal refidence, notwithftand^ng it was the property of the church. William of Hatfield, fecond fon of Edward III, was born here. Queen Elizabeth refided here many years before Ihe came to the crown; here, in 1587, fhe was viiited by Queen Mary ; and hence, on the death of Mary, flie was conducted to afcend the throne. James I exchanged this royal demefne for Theobalds, with Sir Robert Cecil, after- ward Earl of Salilbury. HATFIELD HOUSE, the magnificent feat of the Mar- quis of Salifbury, built on the fite of the ancient epifcopal palace at Hatfield, by Robert firft Earl of Salifbury. The houfe is built of brick, in the form of a half H. In the centre is a portico of nine arches, and a lofty tower, on the front of which is the date 161 1. The noble founder inclofed two parks; one for red, and the other for fallow deer; and, in the firft, he planted a fine vineyard, which was in exiftence when Charles I was cop- veyed here a prifoner to the army. James, the fifth Earl, fuffered this palace to fall into de- cay ; IJ2 II A Y cay ; but the hue Earl rcftored it to its priftine magnificence, after the ddigns of Mr. Donowell. The park and planta- tions too, which are watered by the Lea, now exhibit all the beautiful fcenery of modern gardening. In this houfe are feveral fine paintings; among which are a portrait of Queen Elizabeth, having in one hand this flattering motto, " Non fine fole iris;" and a portrait of Petrarch's Laura, on which is this infcription, " Laura fui: vii idem, Raphael fecit, atque Petrarcha." HAVERING BOWER, a village in Effex, three miles from Rumford, in the parifh of Hornchurch, and liberty of Havering, was a feat of fome of our Saxon Kings ; particu- larly of that fimple faint, Edward the ConfefTor, who took gre.it delight in it, as being woody, folitary, and fit for de- votion. " It fo abounded," fays the old legend, " with warbling nightingales, that they difturbed him in his devo- tions. He therefore earneftly prayed for their abfence ; fmce which time never nightingale was heard to fing in the park, but many without the pales, as in other places." It was named Bower, from fome fine bower, or fliady walk, Jike Rofamond's Bower, at Woodftock. It is a charming fpot, having an extenfive profpecl over a great part of EfTex, Herts, Kent, Middlefex, and Surcy, and of the Thames, with the fliips failing up and down. Here the Confeflbr is reported to have built a palace, fome part of the walls of which are ftill (tending. Befide this palace there was ano- ther, called Pergo, that feems to have been always the join- ture houfe of a Queen Confort. Here died Joan, Queen of Henry IV. It was certainly one of the royal feats in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; for, during her" progrefs into Suffolk in 1570, flie refided here fome days. It was the feat of the late Lord Archer, and was pulled down in 1 770. On the fite of the former, is the elegant villa of Sir John Smith Burges, Bart, called the Bower Houfe, and near this is Bedford's, the feat of John Heaton, Efq. HAYES, a village in Middlefex, 1 3 miles from London, on the road to Uxbridge, has a large church, the chancel of which is curioufly ornamented, aijd has fome good monu- ments. In this parilh is Hayes Park, the property of Capt. Jofeph Fraine of the navy, and the refidence of Mr. Juf- tice Heath. See Paddington* HAYES HEN 133 HAYES PLACE, near Bromley, in Kent, die elegant villa of the late Earl of Chatham, who laid out great dims in fine improvements. It is now (April 1796) the proper- ty of Lord Lewifham, who has advertifed it for fale. ' HEARTS, the feat of Jervoife Clerke Jervoife, Efq. at Woodford, near nine miles from London, fituate behind feveral rows of elms, which form a fine evening walk. It was built by Sir Humphrey Handforth, mailer of the robes to James I. That King was fond of this houfe, and often breakfafted here, when he hunted in Epping Foreft. By marriage it became the property of the Onflows; and the famous fpenker of the Houfe of Commons was born here. When the Onflows removed into Surry, thiseftate was fold, fmce which it has had different proprietors. The laft owner, Richard Warner, Efq. whofe only niece Mr. Jer- voife married, was a literary character. He left here a collection of pictures, by eminent mafters, and was very curious in the difpofition of his garden, in which is a large maze, and a thatched houfe in the middle, with lines in Latin and Englifti, emblematic of the fituation, but now almoft illegible. HKDSOR LODGE, the elegant feat of Lord Bofton. ftands in a lofty fituation, near Ciiefden. The grounds are formed by nature into high {loping hills and deep vallies, with a variety of woods well diftributed. The declivities of the hills, toward the weft, are fteep; and, in the fouth, near the Thames, is a chalky precipice, whence the ground rifes boldly by the fummit, on which this noble manfion appears confpicuous. The extenfive views from this are enriched by villages, feats, and a variety of rural fcenery. HEMPSTED, or HEMEL HEMPSTED, a market- town in Herts, 22 \ miles from London. It ftands among hills, upon the river Gade. It was incorporated by Henry VIII, and is governed by a Bailiff. The market which is llill a very good one, was formerly efteemed one of the greateft in England for wheat; 20,000!. a week having been often returned only for meal. HEN DON, a village in Middlefex, feven miles from London, fituate on a rivulet called the Brent. Hendon Mace, a fine feat in this parifh, is the property of George .Snow, Efq. of Langton, in Dorfetfliire, and the reftdenee N of 134 HERTFORD. of George Petrrs, Efq. Here was a remarkable cedar tree, which was blown down, Jan. j, 1779. Jts height was 70 feet ; the diameter of the horizontal extent of the branches, I oo feet; the circumference of the trunk, at feven feet from the ground, 16 feet; at 12 feet from the ground, :o feet; the limbs from fix to 12 feet in girth. The garden- er, two years before it was blown down, made 50!. of the cones. Lvfo/is, / V. 111. p. 4. In Brent Street, not far from the church, is the ancient manfion of the Which- rou.s, no xv the properly and refidence of John CormvalJ, fq. HERTFORD, a borough, and the county town of Herts. It is feated on the river Lea, and is faid to have been of fome note in the time of the ancient Britons; and it was accounted one of the principal cities of the Eaft Sax- ons, where their Kings often kept their court, and a par- liamentary council was held in 673. To this town the Lea_was once navigable for fhips. In 879 the Danes erected two forts here for the fecurity of their fhips; but Alfred turned the courfe.of the ft ream, fo that their veffels were left on dry ground ; which fo terrified them, that they abandoned their torts, and fled. Edward, the eldeft fon of Alfred, built a caftle, which has been often a roval refi- tlence, and is now the property of Sir George William Prefect, Bart, and refidence of the Marquis of Devonfhire. The town is built in the form of a Y, with the caftle in the middle of the two horns. Here were five churches, which are reduced to two. In that of St. Andrew, there is not only a feat for the Mayor and Aldermen, but another for the Governors of Chrift Hofpital in London, and a gallery, in which 200 of the children of that hofphar may be ac- commodated; for the Governors have erected a houfe in the town for fiich children as xvant health, or are too youno- for that hofpitai. In the pari(h of Little St. John, is the Xe\v River Head; and near the town are many handfome villas; particularly Eayfordbury, the feat of William Baker, Efq. ; Ball's Park, the Earl of Lcicefter's; Golden's, die feat or Richard Em- rnet, Efq. ^ Harrin^forclbury, the fiat of Samuel Baker, fq. ; Brickendenbury j ark. -Mr. Blackmore's, and Tewin Water, Lord John Townihend's. At Har;ingJordburv, are H I L 135 are the portraits of the members of the Kit Kat Club. See Barn Elms and Cole Green. HESTOX, a village of Middlefex, iojt mile? from Lon- don, and a rhile and a half to the north of the great, wcf- tern road. The foil (in general a ftrong loam) is nottd for producing wheat of a very tine quality. Camclen fpeaks of it as having, before his time, furnifhed the royal table : with bread; and Norden, who bears the fame teftunony to its fuperior quality, fays, it was reported that Queen Elizabeth had " the mamlets for her highnefs' own diet" from Hefton. See Hou):J!oii: and Ofierl anc ^ on tne ^ te are ei 'e&ed fome houfes, which form a continuation of Park Place, Kenning- ton Crofs. The road, by Elizabeth Place, to Lambeth Butts, is ft ill called Prince's Road, and was fo denominated m all ancient writings; it having been the road by which the Black Prince came to his palace, when he landed at the flairs at Lambeth. Kennington gave the title of Earl to William Duke of Cumberland, fon of George II. KENNINGTON COMMON, on the road to Clap, ham, is the common place of execution for Surry. Some of the rebels, who were tried by the fpecial commiflion, in Southwark, in 1746, fuffered here. On this common is a bridge formerly called Merlon Bridge, becaufe" the Canons of Merton Abbey had lands, for the purpofe of repairing it. KENSINGTON, a village in Middlefex, one mile and a half from Hyde Park Corner. It contains the hamlets of Brompton, Earl's Court, the Gravels, and a part of Lit- tle Chelfea; but the royal palace, and about 20 other houfes on the north fide of the road, are in the parifh of St. Margaret, Weftmin-fter. At Earl's Court was the villa of the late celebrated John Hunter, who here profecuted his curious and xifeful experiments and di.fcoveries, and whofe valuable mHfeum (which promifes to be of fuch .uti- lity to the fcicnce of chirurgery) is about to be pnixhafed by Parliament. After hk death, this houfe became the rcfidence of the late John Bayne, Efq. & aiuiitg-Rocm : Charles I and his Queen, Vandyck ; Jacob's Separation, Bafian ; Audience of Sir Henry Wotton, in th- Senate Houfe ?.t Venice, Fialletti ; Holbein's Head, in water colours, by himfelf; Flaying of St. Bartholomew ; Holbein's Wife's' Head, in water co- Jo'jrs, Holbein; Venus and Cupid, Mich. Angelo ; Charles XI of Sweden, on Horfeback, Wyck ; Duke of Wharton, Rofalba ; a Tyro!efe Girl, ditto ; 'Rofalba's Head, by her- felf; Duke of Buckingham and his Family, Hon.horft; a Wild Boar's Head, Snydeis; the Tsking'of Tournay, by Marlborough, Wootto'n; St. Petev and the Angel, Steen- wyck ; St. John, Leonard Spado ^ a Nak^d. Venus, Titian; O a a Madonu, 148 KENSINGTON PALACE. a Madonna, with St. Catharine, and St. John with a Lamb, OkiPalma; our Saviour healing the Blind, Verrio ; St. Catharine at the Altar, Veronefe ; the Taking of Lifle, by Marlborough, Wootton. . The King's State Bed Chamber: a Man's Head; Mary Queen of Scots. Jannet ; four Cartoons, by Carlo Cignani, namely, Pan and" Cupid, Bacchus and Ariadne, Apollo and Daphne, and the Triumph of Venus ; a Woman's Head. The Pruffian Clr/et : the Hungarians at Ovid's Tomb, Schonfeld ; Lucretia, after Caracci ; Herodias 1 Daughter, with the Baptift's Head, Da V inci ; a Doge of Venice, Tintoret. The Gtew Clojet : a Landfcape, Paul Brill ; a Woman aflcep, G. Douw ; the Adoration of the Shepherds, Zuc- chero; Mars, Venus, and Cupid, Veronefe; an Italian Mufician, Giorgione; fix long narrow flips, with figures and trees, Schiavoni ; our Saviour and Wary Magdalen at the tomb, Holbein ; an Altai-piece ; Sophonifba, Gaetano ; faint Catharine, Da Vinci ; a Woman going to ftab her- {elf, Falamedes ; Henry VII and V11I, with their Queens, Keemi; Francis II of France, when Dauphin, Jannet ; Lucretia, Titian ; a Witch riding on a Goat, with Boys, tlfniemer ; Nymphs bathing ; Peter and the Angel, Steen- wyck; Venus and Satyrs, with Cupids, Rottenhamer ; Mary Queen of Scots, Jannet ; the fccond Earl and Coun- tefs of Clarendon, Ltly; Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, grandmother of George I, Cor. Janffen ; her fevcn Chil- dren; her Confort, Cor. Janflen; Arthur, Henry, and Mar- gr ; ret, Children of Henry VII, Mabufe ; Frobenius, Prin- ter to Erafmus, Holbein; Erafmus, ditto; a fmall Land- fcape, manner of Ferg ; the Virgin and Child, with Tobit and the Angel, Titian; Virgin and Child, St. Catharine, and St. Ignatius, Giorgione ; Boys, PolHdore; a Land- fcape, Eveidingen ; a China Difh with Heart Cherries, Da- niel Nes; a Lancifcape, Mola ; Niobe's Children (hot out of the Clouds, Rottenhamer ; St. John, with a Lamb ; Ve- nus and Adonis. This Room was King William's writing clofct, in which are his table and efcritor. His Mdjejiys Gallery: Queen Mary, Wiffing ; Adoration of the Kings, Seb. Ricci ; King William, Wiffing ; Henry bommers, Jefter to Henry VIII, Holbein ; Van Cleeve's Wife, KENTISH TOWN. I : 49 Wife, by himfelf ; Prince Charles of Meckleriburgh, Zof- fani; Duke of Alva, Titian ; Prince Charles of Mecklen- burg's Wife, Zoffani ; Van Cleeve, by himfelf; Charles 1, on horfeback, Dobfon; William Duke of Gloucefter, a who!e length, Claret; Queen Anne, when Princefs, Kneller; Inigo Jones, Nogary; William Duke of Gloucefter, Knel- ler; Henry Prince of Wales, fon to James I, My tens; Hen- ry IV, of France, Pourbus; Edward VI, Holbein; Julio Romano; Catharine of Medicis; the Nabob of Arcot, Willifon ; Mary of Medicis, Pourbus; Queen Elizabeth, when young ; Paul Veronefe ; Princefs Anne, with a Dog; George Prince of Denmark, Dahl ; James I, Vanfomer ; a Man in Black, Tintoret; Queen Henrietta, Vandyck; Guercino, by himfelf ; a Lady's Head, More; Duchefs of Richmond, in Man's Apparel, Houfeman ; Holbein, a Head ; the Queen, Prince William, and Prince Edward, Ramfey ; George I, Vanderbank ; Mich. Angelo, a Head; "d ward Duke of York, Eatoni; Charles I, Vandyck; a H,ead ; Charles II, Wiffing ; a Man in Armour, Giorgi- o(\e ; Sir Henry Guilford, Holbein ; a Portrait with a ruff, Vandyck; Bifhop of Ofnaburgh, Zoffani; a Dominican Friar; Artemifia Gentilefchi, by herfelf; Henry VIII, Holbein ; a Portrait, Rembrandt ; Duchefs of York, Lely; Duke of York, ditto ; a large drawing of the Transfigura- tion, after Raphael, Cafanova. We are next conducted down ftairs to the Guard Cham' ber, in which is a painting of Queen .Elizabeth's gigantic porter, by Zucchero. This palace was the frequent refidence of King Williams and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, George I, and the late King. Thefe monarchs (George I excepted, who died at Hanover) all expired within its walls, as did Prince George of Denmark, Queen Anne's confort, in 1 708. During the prefent reign, Kenfmgton has been entirely for&ken by the royal family. KENTISH TOWN, a village in the parifh of Pancras, between London and Hampftead, containing feveral hand- fome houfes, particularly an elegant feat built by the late Gregory Batemaus, Efq. as a kind of miniature of Wanfied Houfe. It is the property of MefTrs. Biddulph, Cocks, Cocks, and Ridge, Bankers, and the refidence of Richard O 3 Johnfon, WOOD. Johnfon, Efq. Here is a handfome chapel of eafe to St* Fancras. KEN WOOD, the beautiful feat of the Earl of Mans- field, iituate in the parifh of Pancras, on a fine eminence between Hampftead and Highgate. Jt was purchafed, in 1755, of the Earl of Bute, by the late venerable Earl of Mansfield, then Attorney General, who improved the whole, with the utmoft elegance, after the dcfigns of the celebrated architects of the Adelphi. The grand front, which is near the fide of the road leading from Highgate to Hampftead, is oppofite the wood that gives name to the houfe. The garden front, which is more extenfive than the other, commands a fine view of rich meadows, falling in a gentle defcent, and relieved by fome noble pieces of water, that fupply part of the metropolis: but this view is terminated by what can add no beauty to rural fcenery, the fpires of London, enveloped in fogs and fmoke. The moft remarkable room in the houfe is the library, a very beau- tiful apartment, 60 feet by 21, defigned by Adam, -and or- namented with paintings by Zucchi. In this room is a whole length, of the late Earl by Martin, and a fine buft of him by Nollekens. There is another buft of his Lordfliip, when young, in the hall ; one of Sir Ifaac Newton ; and the antique buft of Homer, which was bequeathed to him by Pope. The paintings in the hall are by Rebecca. In the breakfaft parlour is a buft of Pope, and a portrait of Sir Chriftopher Hatton. In the other rooms are fome por- traits well deferving of notice ; particularly thofe of Pope, Garrick, the Duchefs of Queenfberry, and a good head of Betterton, the tragedian, faid to be by Pope, who had been inftructed in the art of painting by his friend Jarvis. The prefent Earl has improved and enlarged this houfe very confiderably : Saunders was his architect. The pleafure-grounds, including the wood which gives name to the place, contain about forty acres. Their fitua- tion is naturally very beautiful ; and the hand of art has been fuccefsfully employed in making them ftill more pic- turefque. On the right of the garden front of the houfe, is a hanging wood of tall fpreading trees ; and, on the left, the rifing hills are planted with clumps that produce a pleai- ing effecl. A fweet fhrubbery immediately before this front, K E W. Ifl front, a ferpentine piece of water, render the whole a very enlivening fcehe. The cedars of Libanus, though young, are very fine, and are fhot up to a great height with their leaders entire. One of them was planted with his own, hands by the late Earl. The inclofed fields, adjoining to the pleasure- grounds, contain about thirty acres. Hornfey great woods, held by the Earl of Mansfield under the Bifhop of London, join this eftate on the north, and have been lately added to the inclofures. KESTON, a village in Kent, five miles from Bromley, in the road to "Wefterham. At Holwood Hill, in this pa- rifii, are the remains of a large fortification, (probably a Roman one) of an oblong form ; the area of which is part- ly inclofed by rampires and double ditches of a great height and depth. It is two miles in circumference, inclofing near 100 acres of ground. A path defcends from the camp to the fpring-head of the river Ravenfbourne. Of this fpring an excellent cold bath was formed, furrounded by pales and trees ; but thefe have been long neglected and deftroyed. This river flows hence through Bromley and Hayes, to Beckenham and Lewifham, andcrofling the great road at Deptford bridge, falls into the Thames below. See Holivood Houje. KEW, a village in Surry, formerly a hamlet of Kingfton, but united to Petermam, as one vicarage, by aft of Parlia- ment in 1769. It is feated on the Thames, feven miles from London. Here is a chapel, erected at the expence of the nobility and gentry in the neighbourhood, on a piece of ground given by Queen Anne. Againft the fouth wall is a tablet to the memory of Jeremiah Meyer, a celebrated miniature painter, with thefe verfes by Hayley : Meyer ! in thy works the world will ever fee, How great the lofs of art in lofmg thee; But love and forrow find their words too wesk Nature's keen fufferings on thy death to fpe:k; Through all her duties what a heart was thine! In this cold duft, whr.t fpirit ufcd to (hine! Fancy, and truth, and gaiety, and zeal, "What moft we love in life and lofing feel. Age after age may not one artift yield Equal to thce in piinting's nicer field. And ne'er fhall for rowing earth to heaven commend A fonder parent, or a truer friend. In 152 KEW PALACE. In the cemetery adjoining, is interred the celebrated artift, Thomas Gainiborough. A flat ftone juft records his name nnd the day of his exit from this mortal fcene. The wood- lands of Suffolk were his firft academy, where Nature her- felf taught him to (ketch the rude rural landfcape, between the Tender years of ten and twelve. His talents, when ma- rurcd by cultivation, produced the molt exquifite approach- es to perfection in his art. On Kew Green, on the fite of Mrs. Theobalds' beautiful gardens, once ftood a houfe>4he favourite retirement, in the latter part of his life, of Sir Peter Lely. Here is a ftone bridge, of feven arches, over the Thames, from a defign of Paine's. It was opened in 1 789, and is private property. The width is too contract- ed for its length and height ; it has neither a pavement for foot paffengers, nor recefies for fhelter in cafe of danger. KEW PALACE, now a royal palace, was the property of Samuel Moliaeux, Efq. Secretary to George II, when Prince of Wales. The late Frederic Prince of Wales took a long Icafe of the houfe ; and it is now held by his Majef- ty on the fame tenure. The houfe was improved by Kent, and contains fome pictures ; among which are a portrait of Lord Burleigh, and the celebrated picture of the Florence Gallery, by Zoffani. In the long room, above flairs, is a fet of Canaletti's works. The gardens, which contain 120 acres, were begun by the late Prince of Wales, and finifh- ed by the Princefs Dowager ; and of thefe we fhall give a description, in the words of the late Sir William Cham- bers. "The gardens of Kew are not very large; nor is their fituation advantageous, as it is low, and commands no prof- peels. Originally the ground was one continued dead flat; the foil was in general barren, and without either wood or water. With lo many difadvantages, it was not eafy to produce any thing even tolerable in gardening; but prince- ly munificence overcame all difficulties. What was once a defert, is now an Eden. " On entering the garden from the palace, and turniog toward the left hand, the firft building which appears is The Orangery or Greenboufe. The defign is mine ; and it was built in 1761. The front extends 14.5 feet : the room is 142 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 25 high. In the back ihadc KEW PALACE. 153 fhade are two furnaces to heat flues, laid under the pave- ment of the orangery, which are found very necefiary in. times of hard frolr. The Temple of the Sun is fituated in an open grove near the orangery, in the way to the phyfic-gardens. Its figure is of the circular peripteros kind, but without an attic; and there is a particularity in the entablature, the hint of which is taken from one of the temples of Balbec. The ordti is Corinthian, the columns fluted, and the entabla- ture fully enriched. Over each column, on the frize, are baffo- relievos, reprefenting lyres and fprigs of laurel ; and round the upper part of the cell are fufpended feftoons of fruits and flowers. The infide of the cell forms a faloon richly finifhed and gilt. In the centre of its cove is repre- fented the fun ; and on the frize, in twelve compartments, funounded with branches of laurel, are reprefented the figns of the zodiac in baflb- relievo. This building was creeled in 1761. The next objeft to which we are conduced by Sir Wil- liam Chambers, is The Phyjie or Exotic Garden : 'but as this was in its infancy in 1763, when Sir William publifhed his Defcription, we thall omit his account of it. " Contiguous to the Exotic Garden," proceeds Sir Wil- liam, " is The Flvwer Garden, of which the principal en- trance, with a ftand on each fide of it for rare flowers, forms one end. The two fides are inclofed wi' i high trees, and the end facing the principal entrance is occupied by an aviary of a vaft depth, in which is kept a numerous collec- tion of birds, both foreign and domeftic. The parterre is divided by walks into a great number of beds, in which all kinds of beautiful flowers are to be feen during the great- eft part of the year; and in its centre is a bafon of water, ftocked with gold-fifh. " From the Flower Garden a fliort winding walk leads to The Menagerie. It is of an oval figure; the centre is occu- pied by a large bafon of water, furrounded by a walk; and the whole is inclofed by a range of pens, or large cages, in which are kept great numbers of Chinefe and Tartarian pheafants, befide many other forts of large exotic birds. The bafon is ftocked with fuch water-fowl as are too ten- der to live on the lake j and in the middle of it ftands a pa- villioa 154 KEW PALACE. villion of an irregular ortagon plan, defigned by me, in imitation of a Chinefe opening, and executed in 1760. ' Xrar the Menagerie fhnds The Temple ofJBiilova, de- figned and built by me in i 760. It is of the proftyle kind ; the portico trtraftyle Doric; the metopes alternately en- riched with helmets and daggers, and vafes and pateras. The cell is rectangular, and of a fequiaiteral proportion, but cloted with an elliptical dome, from which it receives the light. " Palling from the Menagerie toward the lake, in n foli- tary walk on the left, is Toe Temple of the God Pen, of the inonopteros kind, but clofed on the fide toward the thicket, in order to make it ferve for a feat. It is of the Doric or- der ; the profile imitated from that of the theatre of Mar- cellus at Rome, and the metopes enriched with ox fcuils and pmeras. It was built by me in 1758. " Not far from the lalt defcribed, on an eminence, ftands The Temple, of Eolui, like that of Pan, of the monopteros figure. The order is a com polite, in which the Doric is uredominant. Within the columns is a large femicii xtilar pii he, ferving as a feat which revolves on a pivot, and may with great eafe be turned by one hand to any expofition, notwithstanding its fize. The Temple of Solitude is fitu- ated very near the fouth front of the palace. " At the head of the lake, and near the Temple of Eolus, ftands a Chinefe oftagon building of two flories, built, many years ago, from the defigns-of Goupy. It is called The Hovfc of Confucius. The lower ftory confitts of one room and two clofets; and the upper ftory ib one little fa- Joon. commanding a very pleafing profpeft over the Jake and gardens. Its walls and ceiling are painted with gro- tefque ornaments, and little hiftorical fuhjecls relating to Confucius, with feveral tranfaclions of the Chriftian mif- fions in China. The fofa and chairs were defigned by Kent, and their feats and backs are covered with tape (try of the Gobelins. In a thicket, near the Houfe of Confucius, is erected the engine which fupplies the lake and bafons in the gardens with water. It was contrived by Mr. Smea- ton, and executed in 1 761. It anfwers perfectly well, raif- ing, by two horfes, upward of 3600 hogfheads of water in twelve hours. " From KEW PALACE, 155 ; From the Houfe of Confucius a covered clofe walk leads to a grove, where is piared a femi oclagon leaf, de- figned by Kent. A winding walk, on the right of the gi ove, leads to an open plain, on one fide of which, backed with thickets, on a riling ground, is'piaced a Corinthian co- lonnade, dehgnedand built by me in 1760, and called I he Theatre of Augufla. v The Temple of yiftoryi* the next object. It (lands on a hill, and was built in commemoration 'of the victory ob- tained in 1759, near Minden, by Prince Ferdinand of Brunfwick, over Marflial de Contades. "The figure is the circular peripteros; the order Ionic decaftyle, fluted and richly finifhed. The frize is adorned with foliages ; and round the Attic are fufpended feftoons of laurel. The cell, which commands a pretty profpecl to- ward Richmond, and over Middielex, is neatly finifhed with ftucco ornaments. Thofe in the ceiling reprefent ftandards and other 1 rench trophies. The whole was defigned by me, and executed in 1759. " As you pafs from the Temple of Victory toward the upper part of the gardens, are feen the ruins of an arch, furrounded by feveral veftiges of other ftruftures. Its de- fcription will be given hereafter. " The upper part of the garden compofes a large wil- dernefs; on the border of which ftands a Moresque build- ing, commonly called The Albambra,, confifting ot a faloon, fronted with a portico of coupled columns, and crowned- with a lantern. - " On an open fpace, near the centre of the fame wilder- nefs, is erected the tower, commonly called The Great Pa- goda. It was begun in the autumn of the year 1761, and covered in the fpring of the year 1762. The defign is an imitation of the Chinefe TA A. The bafe is a regular ocla- gon, 49 feet in diameter; and the fuperftructure is likewife a regular octagon on its plan, and in its elevation compofed often prifms, which form the ten different itoiies of the building. The loweft of thefe is 26 feet in diameter, ex- clufive of the portico which furrounds it, and 18 feet high; the ftcond is 25 feet in diameter, and 17 feet high; and all the reft diminim in diameter and height, in the fame arith- metical proportion, to the ninth ftory, which is 18 feet in diameter, I $6 KEW PALACE. diameter, and ten feet high. The tenth flory is 17 feet in diameter, and, with the covering 20 feet high; and the fi- iiimiiie; on the top is 17 feet high; fo that the whole ftrv.c- ture, from the bafe to the top of the fleuron, is 163 feet. Each ftory finiflies with a projecting roof, after the Chinefe manner, covered with plates of varnifhed iron of different colours, and round each of them is a gallery inclofed with a rail. All the angles of the roof Hre adorned with large dra- gons, 80 in number, covered with a kind of thin glafs f va- rioxis colours, which produces a moft dazzling reflection ; and the whole ornament at the top is double gilt. The walls of the building are compofcd of very hard bricks ; the out- fide of well -co loured and well-matched greyftocks, neatly laid, and with fuch care, that there is not the leaft crack or fracture in the whole flructure, notwithstanding its great height, and the expedition with which it was built. The ftaircafe is in the centre of the building. The profpects open as you advance in height; and from the top you com- mand a very extend ve view on all fides, and, in fome direc- tions, upward of 40 miles diftance, over a rich and varie- gated country- " Near the grand Pagoda, on a rifi'ng ground, backed with thickets, ftands The Mofque, which was defigned and built by me in the year 1761. The body of the building confifts of an octagon faloon in the centre, flanked with two cabinets, finifhing with one large dome and two fmall ones. The large dome is crowned with a crefcent, and its upright part contains 28 little arches, which give light to the faloon. On the three front fides of the central octagon, are three doors, giving entrance to the building ; over each of which there is an Arabic infcription, in golden charac- ters, extracted from the Alcoran, by Dr. Moretoii, from whom I had the follbwing explanation, viz. Ne (it coa&'.o in religior.e. Ison eft Deus ullus pvaster T?cum. Ne ponatis Deo iimilitudinem. " The minarets are placed at each end of the principal building. In my defign of them, as well as in the whole exterior decorurion of the bt:i!dingitfelf. I have endeavour- ed to collect the principal particulars of theTurkifli archi- tecture. With regard to the interior decoration, I have not REW PALACE. 157 rot fo fcrupuloufly adhered to their ftyle in building, but have aimed at foraething uncommon, and at the fame time pleafing. The walls of the cabinet are painted of a rich, rofe colour, and thofe of the faloon are ftraw -coloured At the e/jht angles of the room are palm-trees modelled in ftucco, painted and varniftied with various hues of green, in. imitation of nature; which at the top fpread and fupport the dome, reprefented as formed of reeds bound together with ribbons of fiik. The cove is fuppofed to be perforat- ed, and a brilliant funny fky appears, finely painted by Mr. Wilfon, the celebrated landfcape painter. " In the way from the Mofque, toward the palace, is a. Gothic building, the front reprefenting a cathedral. " The Gallery of Antiques was defagned by me, and ex- ecuted in 1757. " Continuing your way from the lali mentioned build- ing toward the palace, near the banks of the Like, ftands The Tem+lt of Aretbufa, a fmall Ionic building of four co- lumns. It was dehgned and built by me in 1758. " Near it is a bridge thrown over a narrow channel of water, and leading to the ifland in the lake. The defign is, in a great meafure, taken from one of Palladio's wooden bridges. It was creeled in one night. " In various parts of the garden, are erected covered feats, executed from two defigns competed by me in 1758. " There is alfo a Temple, defigned by me, in comme- moration of the peace of 1763. The portico is hexaftvle Ionic, the columns fluted, the entablature enriched, and the tympan of the pediment adorned with bafTo-relievos. The cell is in the form of a Latin crofs, the ends of which are inclofed by femicircuhr fweep*, wherein are niches to receive Ihtuesv It is richly furniflied with ftucco ornaments, allufive to the occafion on which it was erected. " The Ruin was defigned and. built by me in 1759, to make a paflage for carriages and cattle over one of the prin- cipal walks of the gai;deo. My intention waa to imitate n Roman antiquity, buitt of brick, with an mcrufhtion of Hone. The delign is a triumphal arch, original I v \ three apertures, but two of them are now doled up, met converted into rooms, to which you enter by doors made iu the fides of the principal arch. The foffit of the rriivi- P pal 158 KEW PALACE. paVarch is enriched with coffers aud rofts, and both te irontj of tlu' ft rufture are rtiftic. The north front is con- fined between rock:*, overgrown with briars and other wild plants, and topped with thickets, amongft which are feeir feveral columns and other fragments of buildings; rod at a little diihnce beyond the arch is feen an antique ilatue of a Mufe. The central fti ufture of the ruins is bounded on each fide by a range of arches. There is a great quantity of cornice?, and other fragments, fpread over the ground, fremingly fallen from the building; and in the thickets on each fide are feeu feveral remains of piers, brick, walls, c." Thefe gardens are opened every Monday, from Midfum- rner to the-end of Autumn. The Exotic Garden, fince Sir William Chambers wrote this account, has been enriched with a great number of new plants; with feveral, in parti- cular, from New South Wales. They were under the care of the late Mr. Aiton, celebrated throughout Europe for iiis excellent work, " Hortus Kewenfis." So fits emhrcn'd in vrgrtablc pride Imperial Kcw by Thames's glittering fide; Obedient fails from realms unfurrow'd bring From her the unnam'd progeny of fprirg; Attendant nymphs her dulcet mandates hear, And nurfe in f )>lcri:ig ar.ns the tender year, Plant the young bulb, inhume the living feed, Prop the weak flem, :he erring tendril lead; Or fan in ghf>-built fanes the ftranger flowers With miliki- s;aic;, and fteep with warming fhowcrs. Delighted Tl-anies through tropic umbrage glides, And flowers auurdic, bending o'er his tides; Drinks the new tints, the fweets unknown inhales, And calls the fens of fcicnce to his vales. In uf.Q bright point admiring Nature eyes The. r'l uits a~d foliage of difco dant il^ies, Twines the gay floret with the fragrant bougb, And binds the wreath numd George's royal brow. Sometimes retiring, from the public weal One tranquil hour the Royal Partners fte:-l; Through glades ex , tic pals with fteps fublime, Or nmrk the growths of Britain's ruppier clime. With beauty blcITjnrd and. with virtue blazM, Mark the fair fcions that themfelves have rais'd ; Sweet blooms the Rofe. the towering Oak expands, The gra;c and guard of Briton's golden lands. DA* wiv. The K*l tf- 159 The old houle, oppofite the palace, was taken on n long leafe, bv Queen Caroline of the defendants of Sir Richard Levett, arid has been inhabited by different branches of the rc-'-:i! family. The Prince of Wales was educated there, under the Yuperintendence of the prefent Archbifhip of York. This hoofe was bought in 1761, for litr MrMcfty. KILBOURN, a village of Middlefex, in the partthof Kampftead. It is two miles from London, in the road to- Edi,ware, and is famous for its fine fpring of mineral wa- ter, belonging to a tea-drinking houfe called Kilbourn Wells. Near this was once a hermitage, converted after- ward into a nunnery: there are no\v no remains of it. KINGSBURY, to the N. of. St. AJban's, is the fits of a palace of the Saxon princes, who, by their freqiicnt vifits ta the neighbouring ibbey, became an uii'upppVtnble burthen, till Abbot Aifiic prevailed on .vheircd 11. to difpolcof it. KINGSLAND, a hamlet, partly in the pariQi of Hack- ney, and pan'.y in that of 1f;intoi5, had formerly an an- cient hofpital, or home of lepers, called L? L<.qac-s; an otr- folete French word, fignifying rags, whence a IKK was for- merly ufed as a ; no . mo;:s ter:n \vi'h a Jazar, or poor houfe; and heiuv, in a periodical paper written in its fa- vour, in 1713, (the Tatler, No. 17) this place is called the Lick H(fpital. This hofpital was long an appe:u:age to St. Bartholomew s in London, and Was ufed as a kind of outer ward, till 1701,^ when all the patients were reproved from Kingfland, and the fite of the hofpitai was let on a building Jeafe. Tl'.e neighbouring inhabitants having petitioned that the clapel might continue, it was repaired according- ly; the Chaplain being appointed by the Governors of St. Bartholomew's. KINCiSBURY, a village in Middlefex, eight miles north weft oi London. Its name denotes it to have been a royal refidence, perhaps of fome of the Saxon monarchs. KING'S LANGLEY, near Abbot's Lnngley, in Herts,, received its name from a royal palace built here by Henry Hi, the ruins of which are Itili to be f*en. Richard II wa's buried in its monaftery, but afterward removed to Weifri remitter by Henry V. Here was alto born and buried Ed- mund ofLangley, Duke of York, fon of Edward III. The palace, park, and manor, were given l>y James I, to Henry P 2 Prince l6o KINGSTON. Prince of Wale5. The Earl of Eflex is now Lord of the M r. KINGSTON HOUSE, the feat of the late celebrated Diuhefs of Kingfton, now of Sir George Warren, K. B. fitnate on the fouth iide of Knightfbridge, near Kenfington Gore, but in the parifb of St. Margaret, Weftminfter. KINGSTON I) POM THAMES, a market-town in Sun y, 1 1 1 miles from London, was either a royal refidence, or a royal dcmcfne, fo early as the union of the Saxon hep- t..rthy ; for there is a record extaht of a council held there in 8}8, at which Egbert, the firft King of all England, and his fon Athehvolf, were prefent ; and in this record it is Irvltd KfningcHfiun, ftui.cfn ilia Item. Some of our Saxon Kings wire :illo crowned here ; and clofe to the north fide of the church re a large itone, on which, according to tra- ciirion, they were placed during the ceremony Adjoining to the fame fide, was formerly a chapel, in which were the figures of feme of the Saxon Kings that were crowned here, :>r.d alfo that of King John, who gave the inhabitants their fiifl chaiter. Of thefe kings Mr. Lyfons g'rves the follow- ing account, on the authority of our ancient hiftorians; viz. Edward the elder, crowned A. D. 900; his fern Athel- lian, in 925 ; Edmund, in 940; Eldred, or Edred, in 946; Fdwy, or Edwin, in 95 5; Edward the Martyr, in 975; and Ethelred in 978; Edgar, who fucceeded to the throne in 959, is faid to have been crowned either at Kingfton or at Bath. In the infcriptions over thefe figHi'es, fbme of them were faid to be crowned in the market-place, and ethers in the chapel; but no particular fpot is mentioned in the old chronicles. Thefe figures were deilroyed by the fall of the chapel in 1730; at which time Abraham Ham- merton, the fexton of this parifh, digging a grave, was bu- ried under the luins, with another perfon, and his daughter Efther. The latter, notwithflanding fhe lay covered leven hours, furvived this misfortune 17 years, and was her fa- ther's fucceflbr. The memory of this event is preferved by a print of this fingular woman, engraved by M'ArdelK Kingfton fent members to parliament in the reign of thefe- cond and third Edwards; and ceafed to be a borough, iu confequence of a petition from the corporation, praying to be relieved from the burden of fending members. Here is a wooden K N I l6 I a wooden bridge over the Thames, and afreefcfiool, found- ed by Queen Elizabeth, the fchooi-room of which is an an- cient chapel, that belonged to the denioliflied hofpital of St. Mary Magdalen. Here aifo is an almfnoufe, built, in 1668, by Alderman Cleave, for fix men, and as many wo- rnen. The lent affizes are held here. In this place is Cah- bury-Houfe, the feat of John Henry Parker, Efq. near which is a fpacious barn, in which twelve teams' may un- load at once. It has four entrances, four threfhing floors, and is fupported by twelve pillars. In the hamlet of Nor- biton (which is-the entrance into the town from London) is Norbiton Hall, the feat of Thomas Lintail, Efq. Norbi- ton Place, belonging to John Sherrnr, Efq. ; and the hand- forne houfe of William Bowles, Efq. At the other extre- mity of the town, is the hamlet of burbiton, in which, on the banks of the Thames, is the villa of Edward Fuhr, Efq. and farther on, in the road to Ewe!, is Surbiton Houfe, the ftat of Thomas FalU-tt, Efq. whofe gardens extend to the Thames. In 1769, nn act of parliament was ob- tained, for feparating the pariih church of Kingiton, and its dependent chapels of Richmond, Monfley, Tharrtes Dit- ton, Pereruiam, and Kew, and forming the whole pariih into two vicarages and two perpetual curacies. See KINGSWOOD LODGE, the elegant feat of William Smith, Efq. on Cooper's Hill, in the parifti of Egham. Near the houfe is placed a feat, which the lovers of poetry will deem facred ; it being on the very fpot whence Den- ham took his view ot the rich and various fcenery, dcfcrib- ed in his celebrated poem. From this houfe, which is 19 miles from London, the hour and minute hands of St. Paul's clock h?.ve, by the aid of a telefcope, been diftinclly feen. KIPPINGTON, near Sevenoaks, in Kent, the feat of Sir Charles Farnaby RadclifFe, J3art. KNIGHTSBRIDGE, the firft village from London, in the great weftern road, is fituated in the pariflies of Chelfea, St. George Hanover-fquare, and St. Margaret, Weftmiu- fter, but has a chapel independent of thole pariflies. On the fouth fide of Knighdbridge, near Kenfington Gore, but in the parifli of St. Margaret, are fome handfome in- fulated villas, particularly thofe of James Vere, Efq. Sir P 3 Geor l62 K N O George Warren, K. B. and the Duke of Rutland. See Kintjion Houfe. Hyde-Park- Corner, on the fouth fide of the road, is St. George's Holpital for the fick and lame. The centre part was the feat of James Lane, Vifcount Laneiborough, who died there in 1724; and is recorded by Pope in this memorable line : Sober Laneiborough dancing with the gout. KNIGHT's HILL, the feat of Lord Thurlow, in the parifli of Lambeth, between Dulwich and Norwood. When his Lordfhip purchafed this eftate of the Duke of St. Alban's, a few years ago, there was only a farm-houfe upon it, which he new- fronted ; building, at the fame time, fome addittonal apartments. - But he afterward took the whole down, and erected the prefent manfion, in a plain and firrr- p'e ftyle, under the direction of Mr. Holland. This houfe is the firil that was ever finifhed throughout with the new- invented cone flooring. From the upper ftories are de- lightful views over Keuf, Surry, and the metropolis; and the Thames is difcernible, in various parts, from Chelfea to Gravefend. His Lordfhip has not yet thought proper to live in this houfe, but refides in a fmailer one in the neighbourhood. KNOLE, the feat of the Duke of Dorfet, near Severr- raks, in" Kent, one of the moft magnificent ancient man- fions in the kingdom, was pofiefled, in tlie time of King John, by Baldwin de Bethun. From him, through the Marefchals Earls of Pembroke, and the Bigods, Earls of Norfolk, it defcended to Otho de Grandifon, who held it in the reign of Edward I. Sir Thomas Grandfon, in the time, of Richard II, conveyed it to Geoffry de Say, whole daughter transferred it to Sir William Fiennes, and Sir William's fon to Archbifhop Bouchier, by whom confide- rable additions were made to the edifice, and who bequeath- ed it by will to the fee cf Canterbury. Archbifhop More- ton likewife added to the building ; and Cranmer obferv- itig, that the grandeur of the ftruiture excited the invidious remarks of the laity, exchanged it for lands with the crown. ll continued a royal domain till the reign of Edward VI, who KNOLE. l6j u-ho granted it to his uncle the Duke of Somerfer. John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, obtained pofleffion, on Somerfet 's conviction. Northumberland's execution again transferred it to the crown; and Cardinal Pole procured it of Queen Mary for his life. On its lapfing a third time, Elizabeth prefcnted it to her favourite the Earl of Leicefter, who refigned it. The Queen then conferred it to Thomas Sackville, F^arl of Dorfet, who (with the exceptions of its being feized on in the time of the ufurpation, and of an, alienation, by Richard, the third Earl, to Henry Smith, Efq. Alderman of London, which was redeemed by his Lortlfhip's nephew) tranfmitted uninterrupted pofleffion to his defcendants. Scarce any of the ancient manfions of our nobility can imprefs us more with the ideas of feudal magnificence than this does. Its fite, " emboflomed high in tufted tufted trees;" the fbace it occupies, upward of five acres; its towers and battlements ; all concur in recalling to recollection the days of chivalry and romance. The entrance into the houfe is through a great tower por- tal, which leads into a large quadrangular court, with a grafs plat on each fide, in one of which is a gladiator, and in the other, Venus orta Mari. . From this court is an en- trance, through a large tower in the centre, into another court, with a portico in front, fupported by eight Ionic co- lumns; over which is an open gallery, with a baluftrade, for walking. In vifiting the apartments, in the order hi which they are fliown, we firft enter The Hall: In this room are, the horns of an elk, feven feet two inches from tip to tip, and weighing 56 pounds ; the horns of a rhinoceros ; the horns of an antelope ; a Carib- bean canoe ; a fine marble ftatue o.f Demofthenes, purchaf- ed in Italy, by the prefent Duke, for 700!. a marble flatue of Egeria ; and a grand mufic gallery, with a fcreen of cu- rious old carving. The antique windows are of ftained glafs. Tfje Brown Gallery: the pictures are, a Mifer, Quintm Matfys ; George Villiers firft Duke of Buckingham ; Abp. Bancroft ; Cromwell's Barber, afterward General Davis, Dobfon ; a Silenus, Rubens ; two Landfcapes, Claude Lor- rain ; Sir Henry Nevill, Holbein ; his Lady, Daughter of the firft Earl of Dorfet, ditto; Lord Hunfdon and his Son, ditto ; 164 KNOLE. ditto; Sir Kenrlm Digby, a copy, by Gouge; a Nun ; Edward fourth Earl of Dorfet ; a Lady ; Charles- 1 and lib Queen. Yandyrk; Lionel firft Earl of Middlefex, and his daughter, Frances, wife of Richard, fifth Karl of Dorfet ; Charles ii and General Monk; a bpanifh Lady ; Betterton, the A ft or ; two Dutch pieces; Ditto, by Heemfkirk ; James fecond harl of Middlefex The Hern Galley : the pictures are, Luther, MelanShon, Erafmus, Poroeranius, each of them by iiolbein; of vari- ous illuftrious perfons in the time of Henry VIII, and the three fucceediiigs reigns ; two Heads of Anne Boleyn; Ed- ward VI -. Eli^abeth Queen of l! o!iemia i Wirkliff Lady Betty Germaine's Bed Chamber: In this room are Vandyck, and his father-in-law, the unfortunate Earl of Gowry, in gold tapeftry : the principal pictures are, Ju- dith with the Head of Holofernes ; the Lady of Sir Waiter Raleigh ; St. Francis ; and a Holy Family The DreJfing-Rcom : In this are, Edward fourth Earl of Dorfet, Vandyck ; the Duke's Anns, cut in paper, by Mrs. Robinfon ; Richard fifth Earl of Dorfet ; two of Charles fixth Earl of Dorfet, when a Child; Drawings by Poli- dore, Titian, Michael Angelo, &c. The Spangled Bed Rtom : the pictures, James Duke of Monmouth, and Mrs. Sackville, Lely. Here is a ftate-bed, prefented by James 1, to Lionel Earl of Middlefex, Lord Treafurer, and a curious large ebony cabinet. The Dreffing Room : the pictures, the Hiftory of the Mac- cab'ees, Vandyck; Medea and Jafon, Titian; Abraham entertaining the Angels, Giiercino ; a Sybil, a copy r by Old Stone, at Rome ; Francis I of France, Holbein ; his Queen, ditto; Peafants, Teniers; Dryden ; Charles V, Holbein; Angel and St. Peter ; Anne Duchefs of York, Mother of Queen Mary and Queen Anne, Lely; Coun- tefs of Shrewfbury, ditto; Duchefs of Richmond; a Satyr difcovering a fleeping Venus, Correggio ; Sir Theodore Mayerne, Phyfician to James I, Vandyck : a Dutch Piece, HeemlTiirk ; Vandyck and Lord Gowry, Vandyck ; a Landfcape, Salvator, Rofa ; Frank Hals, by himfelf ; a Nativity, Baflan ; Holy Family, Titian. Jbs Billiard Room : the pictures, Oliver Cromwell, Walker; Democritus, Mignard; Heraclitus, ditto: the Story KNOLE. ' 165 Story of Acleon, Titian ; the Story of Califto, ditto ; James Cranfield and his Sifter, Vandyck; Edward fourth Earl of Dorfet, ditto ; the Salutation, Rembrandt; Prince Palatine of the Rhine and his two Daughters, Lucas de Heere ; George III, Ramfay ; Queen Charlotte, ditto ; Philip II of Spain, Sir A. More; his Queen, ditto; Lady Martha Cranfield ; Sir Ralph Bofwell ; Holy Family ; Lionel Duke of Dorfet, and his Sifter, when Children ; Countefs of Bed- ford, Lely; Arts and Sciences, Vafari ; Anthony and Cle- opatra, Dance ; James Marquis of Hamilton, Vandyck ; James I, Mytens; Henry Prince of Wales, his Son ; Lord Somers, Kneller ; Robert fecond Earl of Dorfet ; Duke _ d'Efpernon; a Venetian Ambaffador, C. JanfTen. On a window is painted a man in armour, with this infcription: " Hermannus de Sackville, praepotens Normannus, intravit Angliam cum Gulielmo Conqueftore, A. D. 1066." In a pafiage from this room to the Brown Gallery, among other pictures, are Major Moor, the Prize Fighter; Thomas Flatman, the Poet ; and Abp. Tenifon. The Venetian Room : the pi&ures are, the God of Silence, copied from Schiavone, by Cartwright; Lady Hume; Countefe of Dorfet ; Lionel Duke of Dorfet ; ant! his Du- chefs. In this room is a ftate-bed intended for the recep- tion of James II. The DreJpng-Rcom : the pictures are, Lionel Duke of Dorfet, Wootton ; Mrs. Abingdon, as the Comic Mufe, Reynolds; a Farm Yard, Hondekoeter; the Wife of Ti- tian going to poifon his Miftrefs, Titian ; a Painter's Gal- lery, Old Frank ; a Dutch Piece, Van Pool ; a Candle- light Piece, Scalcken ; a Woman contemplating a Sknll, FJiheimer; a Landfcnpe, Salvator Rofa; a Mafquerade, Paul Veronefe; Banditti, \ r andervelde ; another Candle- light Piece, Scalcken; a Battle, Bourginone; St. Paul, Rem- brandt ; Banditti, Salvator Rofa ; a Poor Family, ditto; St. Francis ; Cleoparra ; a Landfcape, Berghem ; Mr. Brett, JanfTen ; Countefs of Dorfet, .ditto ; SacharifTa; Landfcape, with Figures, Boflam ; a Sifter of the fir ft Du- chefs of Dorfet; Sir Thomas More, Holbein; Earl of Shaftefbury, Paley ; four Spanifli pieces. The Ball-Rcom: In this noble room the pictures are, the prefent Duke, Reynolds; George Vifcount Saokville, Gainlborough; 166 Gainiborough ; Dover CafHe, with the Proceflion of Lionel Duke of Dorftt, Lord Warden, on his return to the Caftic, Wootton ; Charles Duke of Docfet, Kneller ; his Duchefs, Hudfon ; Charles Duke of Dorfet, Kneller ; his Duchrfs t ditto; Richard Sack ville, Mytens ; his Lady, v ditto ; Lio- nel Earl of Middlefex, ditto ; his Countefs, ditto ; Thomas h'l-ft Earl of Dorfet, Janflen. Thefe portraits are all full lengths. The Chafvl Room : In this room are the portraits of Ma- dame Baccelli, Gainfborough ; and of Sir Fltetwood Shep- herd ; and a beautiful ebony cabinet, with figures of the Crucifixion. The Chapel, in which is a picture of our Saviour; CUrifl fcourged; Cbrift walking on the Sea. The Lower Chapel contains a picture of the Apoftles com- pofing the Creed, done in Raphael's School. The Organ Room: in this are the pictures of James I ; James Duke of Ormond ; fome Family Portraits ; Rape of the Wife of Hercules by a Centaur, Annibal Caracci ; a Magdalen, Albani ; Ortelius, the Inventor of Maps, Hol- bein. The D> avaing-Rnr-m : the pictures, a Sybil, Domenichino; Sir Kenelm Digby, Vandyck ; Count Ugolino and his Sons, ftarving in prifon, Reynolds, for which the" Duke gave 400!. and has fince refufed loool ; Henrj VIII, Jjfil; biu ; Countefs of Dorfet, Vandyck ; a Beggar "Boy, ^ey- nolds; the Four ^Seafons, Philip Laura ; Dutch Figures, Teniers; Madame Sheldon, Reynolds; an Artift, ditto; a Dutch Wedding, Teniers; two Cupids in Difguife, Rey- nojds ; Head of an Old Man, Tintoret; two final! Land- fcapes ; Duchefs of Cleveland, Lely; Jofeph and the Angel, Mengs; Fortune-teller, Reynolds; Holy Family, And. del barta; a Chinefe, Reynolds; a Landicape, Bergh^m ; a Girl and Bird, Reynolds ; a French Poft Houfe, Wou- vermans; Madame Baccelli, Reynolds; a Dutch Family, Surght; Angel and St. Peter, Teniers; a fmall picture, Vandyck; Mai riage oi St. Catharine, Parmegiano ; Judith with the Head of Holofernes, Garobalo; a Fancy Piece, Wouvermanii; a Pieta, Annibal Caracci; Holy Family, Peter Perugino; Head of Raphael, HimfeJf; St. Peter, Rembrandt ; Sacchim, Reynolds; Execution of Charles 1; two KNOLE. 167 two fmal! Landfapes, More. All the paintings in this room are very capital. The Cartoon Gallery : Here are Copies of fix of the Car- tions of Raphael, by Mytens, the firft ever made; Robert Dudly Earl of Leicefter ; Charles fixth Earl of Dorfet, Knelier ; his Countefs, Ditto ; a capital picture by Holbein of the Earl of Surry ; James Earl of Northampton ; the fiift Earl of Dorfet, Janflen. In this room alfo are four fine ftatutes, in plafter of Paris, from the Florentine Gal- kry; namely, a Dancing Faun, Venus de Medicis, a Lift- ening (lave, and the Boxers. The King's Bed Chamber, the pictures, Mr. Crewe ; and Lucretia, by Guido Rheni, worth 1400!. Here is a ftate-bed of gold and filver tifiiie, that coft Socol. It is lined with pink fatin, embofTed with gold and filver, &c. TIx Dining Parkur : the pictures, Pharoah's Daughter taking Mofes from the Bull Ruflies, Giordano ; Charlts fixth harlot Dorfet, Knelier; Mr. Gatrick, Reynolds ; Mr. Foote, Romney; Dr. Goldfmith, Reynolds ; Dr. John- fon, Ditto ; Sir Jofhua Reynolds, Ditto ; Mr. Humphreys, the Miniature Painter, R?mney; James I ; Henry Prince of Wales ; Pope, Gay, Swift, Congreve, Milton, Bet'terton, Garth, Shakfpeare, Ben Jonfon, Dryden, Sir Philip Syd- ney, William Cartwright, Villiers fecond Duke of Buck- ingham, Cowley, Wycherly, Locke, Hobbes, St. Evremonf, Newton, Otway, and D'Lrfy, the greater part by Knelier ; Corelli ; Earl of Rochefter, "Du Bois ; Thomas fii ft Earl of Doi fet ; Richard I ; Beaumont and Fletcher ; Sir Charles Sedley ; Chaucer; Prior; Waller; Butler; Addifdn ; a Converfation Piece, by Gooch and others. In the chim- ney is a curious pair of dogs, with the Arms of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. In the Colonnade are the armorial quarterings, on curi- ous painted glafs, of all the Marriages in the family, from Thomas, the fiift fur), to the pi efent time ; marble bufts (antiques, bought at Rome) of Anthony, Mithridates, Pompey, an Ancient unknown, L. J. Brutus, Thefeus, J. Carfar Marcellus, M. Brutus, and a young Hercules ; and two fie to KNOLE. 169 to refide at Knole in 1603 : he died in 1607 ; and as the waterfpouts, which were put up by him throughout the houfe, are dated 1605, it would appear, that no part of the building is fubfequent to this period. The garden gates, the fundial, and many other places bear the arms of JDorfet and Middlefex; a title brought into the family by Francis Cranfield, heirefs to the Earl of Middlefex, and Countefs to the above named Richard. The park owes much to nature and much to its noble proprietor. The line of its furface is perpetually varying, lo that new points of view are conftantly prefenting them- felves. The foil is happily adapted to the growth of tim- ber. Stately beeches and venerable oaks fifi every part of the landfcape. The girth of one of thefe oaks exceeds 28 feet ; and probably its branches afforded (hade to its an- cient Lords of Pembroke and Norfolk. The prefent Duke has repaired the gaps made in the woods by one of his an- ceftors, who, " foe to the Dryads of his father's groves," had unveiled their haunts, and expofed their recefles to the garifh eye of day. The plantations are not dotted about in clumps, as it they had no reference to a whole or general effect, but in broad and fpacious maflTes cover the fummits of the undulating line, or flcirt the vallies in eafy fweeps. Not to dwell, however, on " barren generalities," there are two points of view, among many others, that par- ticularly deferve attention : the one is from the end of a valley which goes in a fouthweft direction from the houfe. It forms a gentle curve ; the groves rife magnificently on each fide, and the trees (many of them beeches of the Jargeft fize) are generally feathered to the bottom. The manfion, with its towers and battlements, and a back ground of hills covered with wood, terminate the vifta. The time moft favourable for the profpect is a little before the fetting fun, when the foreground is darkened by a great mafs of (hade, and the houfe, from this circumftance, and iis being brightened by the fun's rays, is brought forward to the eye in a very beautiful manner. The other view is from a rifiag ground of the fame valley, and of a different kind from the former. On gaining the fummit of a hill, a profpeft of vaft extent burfts at once upon the eye ; woods, heaths, towns, and villages, appearing all in bright Q_ confiuion ; 170 LAINDON HILLS. confufion; and the fudden and abrupt manner in which thr profpeel pi-dents itielf being in perfecl unifon with the wildnefs of the fccnery. The eye takes in the greater part of Welt Kent, a confiderable part of Suflex, and a diftant view of the hills of Hampfhire. The foreground is woody; the whitened fteeples riling every where among the trees, with gentlemen's feats fcattered round in great abundance; and Penfliurft, the ancient refidence of the Sidneys, ftand- ing confpicuoully on a gentle fwell, forming a middle poiat between the foreground and the South Downs that Ikirt the horizon, reminding the reader of the fpot where the patriot Algernon .Sidney, and the gallant Sir Philip were born, and where the amorous Waller immortalifed his Sacharifla, This delightful fpot is called River Hill. In the park is abundance of fine deer. LAIXDON HILLS, LANGDON HII.LS, or LAXGDON WITH WEST LEA, a parifh in EfTex, contiguous to that of Langdon and Baflldon, and lying in the road from Chelmsford to Tilbury Fort, 22 miles . by N. of London. This parifli was once fuppofed to be the higheft ground in Eflex; but, on a furvey, it has been found not to be fo high as Danbury. The afcent on the North fide ieafy; but, on the South, S. E. and S. W. the traveller is afto- nifhed at the* defcent before him, which exhibits a very beautiful and extenfive valley, with a view of London to the right, the Thames winding through the valley, and the view extending to the left beyond the Medway. Mr. Young, in his Six Week's Tour through the Southern Counties, thus defer ibes this profpeft : " On the fummit of a vaft hill, one of the molt aftonifliing profpects to be beheld, breaks out, almoft at once, upon one of the dark lanes. Such a prodigious valley, every where painted with the fineft verdure, and interfered with numberlefs hedg% and woods, appears beneath you, that it is paft defcription; the Thames winding through it, full of (lifps, and bounded by the hills of Kent. Nothing can exceed it, unlefs that which Haunibal exhibited to his difconfoiate troops, when he L A M i;i he bade them behold the glories of the Italhn plains! Jf ever a turnpike road fhould lead through this country, I beg you will go and view this enchanting fcene, though a journey of forty miles is neceflary for it. I never beheld any thing equal to it in the Weft of England, that region of landfcape." This turnpike road is not now wanting. LALEHAM, a village in Micldlefex, between Shepper- ton and Staines,- famed for the entertainment it affords to lover of angling. The Thames narrows confiderably here; and, about the (hallows or gulls, the water is beau- tifully tranfparent. The tranquillity of the fcenery, the va- rious- objecls gliding on the ftream, and groups of cattle in the adjacent meadows, prefent a pleating fubject to the con- templative mind. Here the Earl of Lonfdale has a hand- fome feat. LAMBETH, a vilage in Surry, which the late increafe' of buildings, in every direction, from the three bridges, has now united to the metropolis. It extends a considerable way along the banks of the Thames,, from Vauxhafl to Southward; and the parifh, which extends to Norwood, Stie.Uham, and Croydon, contains fix precincts, or libc: namely, the Arch bi {hop's, the Prince's, Vauxhall, the Marfii and Wall, Stockwell, and the Dean's. Near Weftmi-nfter Bridge, isafpot of ground, containing an acre and IQ poles, named Pedlar 'a Acre, which belongs to the parifh, and ia faid to have been given by a pedlar, on condition, that his picture, with that of his dog, be perpetually preserved in painted glafs, in one of the windows of the church j which the parifhioners carefully performed in the foutheaft window of the middle aide. It has been fuggefted, how- ever, and with great probability, that this picture was in- tended rather zs a rebus upon the name of the benefactor, than asdefcriptive of his trade; for, in the church at Swaff- hnm, in Norfolk, is the portrait of John Chapman, a great benefactor to that parifh ; and the device of a pedlar and his pack occurs in feveral parts of the church ; which cir- cumftance has given rife to nearly the fame tradition as at Lambeth. But whatever be the origin of this gift, the time of it was in 1504, when it was let at ss. 8d. per ann. but in 1752, it was leafed at lool. per ann. and a fine of Bool. 0,3 It If* LAMBETH. It is now cftimated at 250!. a year. The annual value of all the eftates belonging to this parifli is 968!. i6s. 8d. The church is clofe to the palace. Mary Queen of James II, flying wi:h her infant fon from the ruin impending r family, after croffing the river from Whitehall, took flicker beneath the ancient walls of this church, a whole hour, from the rain of the inclement night of Dec. 6, 1688. Here fhe waited, a melancholy fpectacle of fallen mnjefty, till a coach, procured from the next inn, arrived, and conveyed her to Gravefend, whence fhe failed to .Frame. In this church were interred the mild and amiable pre- lates, Tunfhl of Durham, and Thirleby of Ely, who being deprived of their fees, for their confcientious attachment to the Catholic religion, lived, for the remainder of their i Lambeth Palace, under the protection of the good Abp. Parker, who revered their virtues, and felt for their misfortunes. The body of Thirlebye \vas found, in dig- ging a grave for Abp^. Coruwallis, 'His long And venera- ble beard, and every part, was entire, and, of a beautiful whitenefs: a flouched hat was under his left nrm \ hiatlrefs that of a pilgrim, as heefteemed himfdf to be upon earth. In the churchyard is the tomb of John Tradefcant, fa- ther and fon, founders of the Aflimolean Mufeum, at Ox- ford. It was ornamented, on the fides, by emblematic de- vices, denoting the extent of their travels, and their atten- tion to natural hiftory. Thefe are nearly defaced , but, in 1773, a new flab was placed upon the tomb, and the epi- taph engraved upon it, which no_ naturalift ihould neglccl to read. In 1769, an artificial ftone manufactory was erected by Mrs. Coade, at King's Arms Stairs, Narrow Wall. It an- fwers every purpofe of ftone carving, having the peculiar property of refilling froft, and, confequently, of retaining that fharpnefs in which it excels every kind of ftone fculp- ture, and even equals marble. Here are many fine ftatues, from the mafterly models of Bacon. It extends alfo to every kind of architectural ornament, in which it comes much below the price of ftone. In this parifli is the Afrlum for Orphan Girls, whofe fettlement, after a refidence of fix months in the bills of mortality, LAMBETH 1>ALAC'E. 1 J 3 mortality, cannot be found: it was inftituted in 1758. Here alfo, is the Weftminfter New Lying-in Hofpital, in-' ftituted in 1765. In this, particular; wards are appropri- ated for the reception of unmarried worrren. At Lambeth, the Danifh King Hardicamite, died fud- denly, in 1041, during an entertainment given on account of the marriage of a noble Dane. His death was imputed by fome to poifon ; by others, to intemperance ; and the' fcene of it was probably at Kennington ; where the vef- tiges of an ancient royal palace were lately to be feen. In- the beginning of the prefent century, Lambeth contained 1400 houfes. The prefent number, including thofe build- ing, or newly built, and not yet inhabited (which are about 500) is 4150. LAMBETH PALACE, the venerable manfion of the Abps. of Canterbury, fituate on the Thames, oppofite Weftminfter Abbey. Its founder feems to have been Abp. Boniface, in the 1 3th century. Abp. Chkhele built the Lollards Tower, in 1435. Abps. Stafford, Morton, Warham, Cranmer,. Pole, Parker, and Bancroft, expended great firms oa this palace. It had fuffered much in Wat Tyler's rebellion, ifv 1381, when the commons of Eflex there murdered Abp.' Sudbury; and, on the decollation of King Charles the Firft, it was purchafed for 1073!. by Col. Scott, who con- verted the chapel into a dancing room, demoliihed the' great hall, and, in other refpecls, reduced the venerable pile to a ruinous condition. Abp. Juxon rebuilt the great hall, at the expense of 10,500!. and the Abps. Sheldon, Bancroft, Tillotfon, Tenifon, Wake, Seeker, and Corn- wailis, (pared no coft to render this ancient {trucTure, not only convenient and comfortable, but worthy of being the refidence of the Primates of all England. In 1776, it was determined to be extraparoch'ial, by a decifion in the Court of Common Pleas. The gardens and park, which contain near 13 acres, arc laid out with great tafte. They have been enlarged and. rmich improved by the prefent Arcbbifhop, who (befide building an extensive brick wall) has made a new accefs to the houfe, for carriages, through the park. In the garden are two remarkable fig-trees, of the white MadeilJes, whacfi beau I 74 LAMBETH PALACE. hear delicious fruit. Tradition fays, they were planted by Cardinal Pole. They cover a furface of 50 feet in height and 40 in breadth. The circumference of the fouthernioft is 2 8 i nches, of the -other 2 1 < . We are now to take a curfory view of the apartments : The Chapel: when this chapel was converted into a danc- ing-room, the body of Abp. Parker was taken out of his tomb here, and buried in a dunghill. After the refloration, Sir William Dugdale acquainted Abp. Sancroft therewith, by whole care the body was difcovered, and again depofited in the fpot whence it had been taken. Over it is a Latin ihfcription, the Englifli of which is : " The body of Mat- thew the Archbifhop here refis at laft." Another monu- ment, recounting the demolition of his tomb, and the treatment of his body, was fet up, by the fame prelate, in the fouthwefl corner of this chapei. The Gateway : The archieves of the fee are kept in a room over the gateway, called the record-room. This gateway, and the adjoining tower, which are of brick, were built by Abp. Morton, about the year 1490. The'Ne r u} Buildings : A houfe on the right hand of the tirft court, built by Abps. Sancroft and Tillotfon, is thus called. The Great Hall: The dimensions of this hall are 93 feet by 38. It has a gothic roof of wood. The Guard Chamber, anciently ufed as fuch, is 56 feet by S7|, and is fuppofed to have been built before the year 1424. It is roofed like the hall. Adjoining to this are a drawing-room and dreffing-room, built by Abp. Corn- wall is. The Prrfence Chamber has three windows adorned with painted glafs, reprefenting St. Jerome and St. Gregory, with old Knglifh verfes beneath them. The middle win- dow has a painted fun-dial, with a view of the theatre at Oxford, and the arms of the fee, and of Abp. Sheldon, at whofe expence it was done. The Lobby : In this room is the portrait of Henry Prince of Wales, fon to James I. The Long Gallery, built by the mild and amiable Cardi- nal Pole, is 90 feet by 16. The wainfcot remains in its Original ftate, being all of mantled carving. In the win- dows LAMBETH PALACE. 175 dows are coats of arms of different Prelates of this fee. It is filled with portraits, chiefly prelates, among which are Abps. Warham and Parker, by Holbein ; another of the laft prelate, by Lyne; and Bp. Hoadly, by his fecond'wife. The prefent Abp. has made a very handfome bay win- dow, in the modern tafte, from the ceiling to the floor. This affords a fine view of the lawn and plantations ; and, in the latter, openings have been made, through which Weftminfter Abbey, the Bridge, the Patent Shot Manu- faftory, St. Paul's, and the Monument, are feen to great advantage, and produce a fine effecl. The Great Dining Room has all the Abps. from Laud to Cornwallis. That of Laud is by Vandyck ; Juxon, from a good original, at Longleate ; Tenifon, by Dubois; Her- ring, by Hogarth ; Hutton, by Hudfon ; Seeker, by Rey- nolds ; and Cornwallis, by Dance. In thefe portraits may be obferved the gradual change of the clerical drefs, in the articles of bands and wigs. A large ruff anciently fupplied the place of the former. Abp. Tillotfon was the firft pre- late that wore a wig; which was then not unlike the natu- ral hair, and worn without powder. The Lollards Tower : At the top of this tower, is the room in which the Lollards were confined. It is only 12 feet long and nine broad. In the wainfcot, which is of oak, are fattened eight iron rings; and there are many half fen- tences, with names and letters, cut with a knife, as is fup- pofed, by the perfons confined here. It is here to be ob- ferved, that the Archbifbops, before the Reformation, had prifons for the puniihment of ecclefiaftical offenders. Queen Elizabeth frequently made this palace a prifon; not only committing the two Popifh Prelates Tunftall and Thirleby to the cuftody of the Archbifhop, but other per- fons of rank ; here the Earl of Eflex was confined, before he was fent to the Tower. It was ufual for them to be kept in feparate apartments, and to eat at the Archbifhop's. table. The Library was founded by Abp. Bancroft, in 1610. His fucceflbr, Abbot, took great pains to fecure the books to the fee, and, at his death, much increafed them. During the civil war, they were depofited at Cambridge, at the fuggeflion of the celebrated Selden, that Trinity College, in 176 SOUTH LAMBETH. in that univerfity, had a reverfionary right to them, on the abolition of the hierarchy. Here they remainrd till the reftoration, when they were returned to Abp Seldon, who made a ronficlerable addition to them. Abp.Tennifon, alfo bequeathed a part of his books ta this library, as did Abp. Seeker; many valuable books have been added by Abp. Cornvvallis; and the number of them amounts to 2^,000 volumes. On the northeaft window is painted in glafs, the portrait of St. Auguftine, with old Englifh verfes be- neath it ; and near it is a figure of Abp. Chichele, with the motto of Abp. Stafford, put here by the miftake of a gla- zier. .This library is adorned with a fine picture of Can- terbury Cathedral, and prints of all the Archbifhops from Warham to the prefent time. Here alfo Abp. Cornwallis placed fome fmall prints, framed, of the principal reformers from popery, and of the moft eminent nonconformift mi- nifters of the lait and prefent century. The (hell of a tor- toife is fliewn, to which a label is affix-ed, importing, that this tortoife was put in the garden, by Abp. Laud, in 1633, and killed in 1757, by the negligence of a gardener. This library ftands over the cloifters, and forms a narrow g?.\- lery, which occupies the four fquares of a quadrangle. Among the books, is an oclavo edition of the Liturgy of the Church of England, tranflated into the Mohawk lan- guage, by the famous Indian Chief, Colonel Brandt. The Library of MSS. ftands over part of the lafl, and con- tains about 1 1,000 MSS. many of which are very curious. The prefent Abp. has given a confiderable fum for the fitting up of a proper repofitory for this colleclion. LAMBETH, SOUTH, between Stockwell and Vaux-' hall, was thought fo agreeable a .fituation, by Sir Noel Caron (who was, for 33 years, AmbalTador to this country from the United Provinces) that he erected here a hand- fome palace with two wings. On the front was written Qntnefdumforti f atria. What remains of it is an academy, called Caron Houfe; and on afpot, which was part of his park, is Caron Park, the handfome villa of Charles Blicke, Efq. Oppofite this is a new chapel of eafe, built by a fub- fcjipdon of the inhabitants. Here lived the Tradefcants, father and fon, who made the celebrated colleclion of rarities, dtfcribed in a-book, printed L A T 77 printed at London, in 1656, called Mnfeum Tradefcantia- num. By a deed of gift of the younger Tradefcant and his wife, they became the property of Elias Afhmole, Efq. who prefented them to the univerfity of Oxford. Here was their celebrated phyfic garden, one of the firft eftablifhed in the kingdom. The elder Tradefcant, had been gardener to Villiers Duke of Buckingham, and other noblemen, and was afterward promoted to the fervice of Charles I. He travelled over great part of Europe and Africa, in fearch of new plants; many of thofe introduced by him were long called by his name ; but there are now no traces of this garden. See Knight's Hill, Lambeth, and VauxbalL LANGLEY, a fcattered village in Buckinghamshire, 18 miles from London, to the right of the road to Colnbrook. The parifli confifts of three diftricls, called Weftmore Green, Horfcmore Green, and Southern or Middle Green; in the laft of which is the elegant feat of Mr. Irby ; and a neat houfe, built by Mr. Webb, and the residence of Ro- bert Spragge, Efq. LANGLEY PARK, near Colnbrook, the feat of Sir Robert Batefon Harvey, Bart, is a handfome ftone build- ing, ere&ed by the late Duke of Maryborough. It is in the centre of a fine park, abounding with a variety of Hne timber. A piece ot water runs alone the fouth front of the houfe, at the foot of a Hoping lawn, on which are fcattered fame beautiful clumps of trees, and other wood- land fcenery, A rifing ground, at the weft extremity of the park, leads to an extenfive inclofure, called the Black Park, entirely covered by firs, except where fome roads are cut. In the centre is a fine lake. There is fomething of Alpine fcenery in this fequeftered fpot, the idea of which is the more forcibly imprefled by the furrounding fombre woods of deep- tinted firs. LATTON PRIORY, three miles fouth of the church of Latton, and half a mile welt of the road from Epping to Harlow. The priory church, now ufed as a barn, con- fifts of a nave and a crofs aide; and the infide of the building is of the lighter ftyle of Gothic, with the pointed arch. The materials of which it is compofed are flint, ftones, mortar, and the old flat bricks called Roman ; and what appears to have been the fite of the priory is fur- rounded 178 L E A. rounded by a moat, without which, fouth of the prefent buildings, human bones are frequently found ; which cir- cumftance points out the ancient burialplace. Eaft of the church, without the moat, appears a Imall rifing, with a hollow without it, like the remains of .an intrenchment. The interval between this rife and the moat, the inhabi- tants, from its appearance, call the Monks' Bowling Greeiu The Canons of this priory were Auguftine. At the diflb- lutioa, it was granted to Sir Henry Parker. It was pur- chafed, in 1562, by James Altham, Efq. whofe defcendant, Sir William Altham, fold it to William Lulhington, Efq. with the fine manor and manfion of Marks Hall, in this pai i(h. Mr. Lufliington rebuilt the houfe in the modern ftyle, and fold it to Montague Burgoyne, Efq. LAYER, the name of three pariflu-s well of On gar, in Eflex, diftinguifhed by the appellations of High, Mavdalen, and Little. In the parifli of High Laver is Otes, the feat of Sir Francis Ma (ham, M. P. for Eflex, from 1690 to 1708. That illuilrious phlloibphqr, John Locke, fpcnt much of hii time, in the laft ten years of his life, at Otes, where he vvastreated with the utmoft friendfhip by Sir Francis aud his excellent Lady, Damaris, who confoled his laft moments by her kind offices, and by reading to him the Pfalms, and other portions of Scripture. Here he died, in 1704., and was buried in the fouth fide of the churchyard, under a black marble graveftone, inclofed by iron rails; and, on the wall of the church above, is his epi- taph, printed in his works. This tomb and monument were repaired about twelve years ago. Otes continued in this family till the death of the laft Lord Ivlafhain, in. 1 776. It \-> now the feat of fohn Baker, Efq. LA.YTONSTONE. See Low Layton. LEA, a river of Herts, which rifes out of Leagrnve Marfh in the foirth of Bedford (hi re, and fimving obliquely to the eaftern fide of the county, wafhts the towns of Hertford and Ware, from the laft of which it is navigable to the Thames, It collects, in its courfe, all the ftreams of the northern and eaftern parts of the county, divides part of it from Eflex, and is the boundary between that county and Middlefex. Pope thus mentions this river : 1 he culfv L?A his fcdey trcffcs rears. LEATHER- LEI 1-9 LEATHERHEAD, a village in Surry,four miles S.W. of Epfom, had formerly a market. Here is a neat bridge of feveral arches over the river Mole. In its vicinity are fome handfome villas; particularly, Thorncroft, the feat of Henry Boulton, Efq. Lord of the Manor; Randall Houfe, the feat of Dalhoufie Weatherfton, Efq. and Givon's Grove, the refidence of Mr. Fuller. LEE, a village in Kent, fix miles from London, on the fouth fide- of Blackheath, and on the road to Maidftone, contains Lee Place, the handfome feat of Lord Dacre. Here is likewife the ancient family feat of Charles Boone, Efq. occupied by Benjamin Harrifon, Efq. On the fum- mit of the hill, next the heath, ftandg the ancient church of Lee, in a fituation particularly rural and picturefque. In the churchyard are two fine monuments; the one of the Boone, and the other of the Fluyder family. T\he great r.ftronomer-royal, Dr. Edmund Halley, is interred here, under a plain tomb, with a Latin infcription, which is printed with his life. Immortal Halley ! thy unwearied foul On wifdom's pinion flew from pole to pole, Th* uncertain compafs to its taflc reftor'd, Each ocean fathom'd, and each wind explor'd, Commanded trade with every breeze to flv, And gave to "Britain half the Zemblian fky. And fee, he comes, diftinguifh'd, lov'd, careft, Mark'd by each eye, and hugg'd to ev'ry breaft; His godlike labours, wit and fcience fire, All factions court him, and all fefts admire : While Britain, with a gratitude unknown To ev'ry age but Nero'^nd our own, A gratitude that will for ever fhame The Spartan glory and th' Athenian name ; Tell it, ye winds ! that all the world may hear Bleft his old age with ninety pounds a year ! But the illuftrious Halley had not the fcientific and mu- nificent Patron of a Herfchel. LEITH-HILL, five miles W. by S. of Darkirtg, in Sur- ry, is admired for one of the nobleft profpefts in Europe, of which Mr. Dennis has given a fine defcription in his Familiar Letters. At the top of one part of the hill a fquare tower iSo ST. LEONARD'S HILL. tower has been ere&ed, over the door of which is the fol- lowing infcription: Another infer! prion was afterward placed on this tower, importing, that Mr. Hull, after having ferved in feveral parliaments, retired from public bufinefs to the exercife of the private virtues, and having chofen this delightful fpot for the depofitory for his bones, is here interred. St. LEONARD'S HILL, a fine eminence in Windfor Foreft, beautifully clothed with venerable oaks and majef- tic beeches. On the fummit, is a noble feat, built by Maria Countefs Dowager Waldegrave, and having been greatly improved by the Duke of Gloucefter, on his mar- riage with that lady, it received the name of Gloucefter Lodge. This elegant villa, with the pleafure-grounds, lawns, and meadows, confifting of about 75 acres, were fold by auction, in 1781, to Mr. Macnamara, for 7100 guineas. Of him it was purchafed by General Harcourt for io,oool. The principal elevation of the building is regular, and the apartments are fpacious and elegant. In the fouth front, adjoining the hall, is a Gothic room, called the Saloon, where the plate glafs in the compartments on one fide, and the large convex mirrors on the other, reite- rate the objects, and produce a very pleafing effect. This enchanting fpot is thus noticed by a truly poetical genius : Hence, Fancy, wing th^ rapid flight O'er oaks in deepeft verdrfre dighr, Whofe writhed limbs "of giant mou!d Wave to the breeze their umbrage bold ; Bear me, embowering /hades between, Through many a glade and vifta green, Whence filver ftreams are feen to glide, And towering domes th' horizon hide, To Leonard's foreft-fringed mound j Where lavifo Nature fpreads around Whatever can captivate the fight, Elyfian lawns, and profpefts bright As vifions of expiring fiiints, Or fcenei that Harcourt's pencil paints. A little LOU 181 A little to the fouth, on the declivity of the hill, is Sophia Farm, formerly the feat of Lillie Ainfcombe, Efq. of whom it was purchafed by the Duke of GJoucefter, to conftitute an appendage, or farm, to Gloucester Lodge. His Royal Highnefs named it from the Princefs Sophia, his daughter. It is now the feat of Mrs. Birch. LEWISHAM, a village in Kent, 5* miles from Lon- don, in the road to Bromley. In this parifh is a hill, with an oak upon it, called the Oak of Honour, becaufe Queen Elizabeth is faid to have dined under it. The original tree, which ferved for a canopy to this illuttrious Princefs, is long ago penfhed ; but care has been taken to plant an oak on the fpot, that this traditional anecdote may not be forgotten. The church is an elegant modern edifice. A branch of the river Ravenfbourn runs through the ftreet of this village, and is a great addition to its beauty. LIMEHOUSE, ST. ANNE'S, at the eaftern extremity of the metropolis, is a parifli taken from that of Stepney. The church, a mafly inelegant ftruclure, is one of the 50 new churches built in the reign of Queen Anne. A nev/ cut, from the river Lea, enters the Thames at this place, and faves the circuitous navigation round the Jile of Dogs. It was made about the year 1767. LIMEHOUSE HOLE, part of the hamlet of Poplar, has two nfiderable yards for imp-building; one belonging to Mr. Batfon, and the other to Meflrs. Hill and Melhfh. LINGFIELD, in Surry, on the borders of Kent and Suflex, has a fine fpring on the common, paled in, and of the fame virtue with that of Tunbridge. LITTLETON, a village, near Laleham. Here is the handfome feat of Thomas Wood, Efq. LONG DITTON, a village in Surry, two miles from Kingfton. It has a neat and even elegant new church. LONGFORD, a hamlet of Harmomlfworth, 15 miles from London, in the road to Bath, is watered by the river Coin, which crofies the road here in four branches. It is frequented by the lovers of angling. LOUGHTON, a village, 1 1 miles from London, in the road to Epping. Loughton Hall is the feat of Mifs Whk- aker, and Golden Hill, in the fame parifh, of Mrs. Cloy. Here alfo is an ancient building, called Queen Elizibeth's R Lodge, MAD Lodge, faid to have been a hunting-feat of that Princefs. It is the property of William Heathcote, Efq. and is occupied bv his gamekeeper. ' LOW LAYTON, a village in Eflex (which, with that of Laytonftone, forms but one parifh) on the fkirts of Ep- ping Foreft, 5* miles from London. Here are fome fine feats ; ..particul a rly, the Foreft Houfe, fronting the forelt, the property of the late Samuel Hofanquet, Efq; the beautiful manfion of Thomas Oliver, Efq ; and the Manor Houfe, once the feat of that great lawyer, Sir John Strange, and now of Nathaniel Brafley, Efq. Here was a Roman ftation; feveral foundations, with Roman bricks and coins, having been found near the Manor Houfe ; and fome urns, with afhes in them, have been dug up in the churchyard and other parts. LULLINGSTON PLACE, the fine feat and park of Sir John Dixon Dyke, Bait. 18 miles from London, on the right of the road to Maidftone. LUXBOROUGH, the elegant villa of the late Admiral Sir Edward Hughes, K. B, and now of Lady Hughes, is fituated in the parifh of Chigwell, near Woodford Bridge, Eflex, and was built by Lord Luxborough, in the year 1 742. It afterward became the property of Sir Edward Walpole, who having in vain endeavoured to drain effectually the furrounding land, which was occafionally flooded, difpofed of it to Mr. Samuel Peach, who purchafed it on fpecula- tion; and by him it was again fold, in 1782, to Lady Hughes, who, during the abfence of the Admiral, in the Eaft Indies, directed all the improvements in the houfe and gardens. In thefe fhe has fhewn a fine tafte, with indefa- tigable perfeverance. She contrived, moreover, the moft effectual prefervation againft any future encroachments of the river Roding, which now adorns the fertile grounds Lt had been accuftomed to disfigure. TV If ADAM'S COURT HILL, a hill m Kent, 19 miles J_V JL from London, in the road to Sevenoaks. It com- jnands a very rich and extenfive profpeft. MALDEN, M A It 183 MALDEN, a village in Surry, about three miles from Kingfton, has a powder-mill, on a ftream that runs from Ewell to that town. MARBLE HILL, the villa of the late Earl of Burking- hamfhire, at Twickenham, fituate on a fine green lawn, open to the Thames, and adorned on each fide by a beau- tiful grove of horfe-chefnut trees. The houfe is a final I white building, without wings, but of a pleafing appear- ance. It was built by George II, for the Counrefs of Suf- folk, Miftrefs of the Robes to Queen Caroline. Henry Earl of Pembroke was the architect ; and the gardens were laid out by Pope. They are very pleafant, and have a beauti- ful grotto, to which you are conducted by a winding alley of flowering fhrubs. This houfe was lately in the occupa- tion of Mrs. FitzJierbert. MARDEN, near Godftone, in Surry, the fine feat and park of Sir Robert Clayton, Bart. MARG A RETTING, (pronounced Marget-EneT) a vil- lage in EfTex, 25 miles from London, in the road fo Chelmsford, on the left hand of which is Cold Hall, the handfome feat of M>-s. Holden. MARYBONE, or ST. MARY-LE-BONE, once a country village to the northweft of London. It was an- ciently called Tiburn, from its fituation near a fmall bourn^ or rivulet (formerly called Aye Brook, or Eye Brook, and now Tybourn Brook) which runs from the fouth fide of Hampftead, by Belfyfe, and, after a fubterranean courfe through different parts of Marybone, Oxford Street, St. James's Park, &c. flows through Tothill Fields into the Thames. Hence it is conjectured (See Lyfons y t-'d. III. page -42) that when the fite of the church was altered to another ipot near the fame brook, it Was called St. Mary at fist bwn, now corrupted to St. Mzry-Je-fortf, or Mary- bone. Here was once a royal park' well flocked with game ; and, in Queen Elizabeth's Progreffes, it is recorded, that, " on the third of February 1600, the Ambafladors from the Emperor of Rufiia,and other Muscovites, rode through the city of London to Marybone Park, and there hunted at their pleafure, and fliortl'y after returned homeward." What a contraft to the prefent ftate of this parifh, nowr containing magnificent ftreets and fquares, which from a R * part 184 MERTON. part of the metropolis! Of 2500 acres of land, which it contains, one third is occupied by buildings ; the remain- der, extending northward to Prirnrofe Hill, and well to Kilbourn turnpike, is almoft wholly grafs land, with a few acres occupied by market gardeners. At the beginning of the prefent century, Marybone was a ftnall village, about a mrle diftant from the neareft part of the metropolis. The commencement of building was be- Ipre 1720, by the erection of Cavendifh Square. Maitland, who publifhcd his Hiftory of London in 1739, fays there were then 57*7 houfes in the parilh of Marybone, and 35 perfons who kept coaches. The buildings have fmce pro- ceeded progreluvely (though not without occafional checks by every war) and the prefent number of houfes is com- puted at 6200. Indeed, fuch has been the increafe of buildings, that the quota r>( this parifli to the land-tax (564!. 55. id.) is raifed by a rate of only one farthing in the pound. MERTON, a village in Surry, feven miles from Lon- don, in the road to Epfom. It is "feated on the river Wan- tile, and was once celebrated for an abbey, founded in the reign of Henry I. In 1227, Hubert de Burgh, the able and virtuous minifter of Henry III, being difgraced, took fhelter in the church of the abbey j whence the King or- dered him to be dragged, but recalled his orders, and, in the fequel, reftored him to favour. At a parliament held in this abbey, in 1236, the famous " Provifions of Merton" (the moft ancient body of laws after Magna Charta) were enacted, and the Barons gave that celebrated anfwer to the clergy, " Nolumus leges Angliae mutare We will not change the laws of England." It is not Icfs memorable for the conftitutions which the clergy of England made there in 1258; which were not only calculated to promote their own grandeur, at the expence of the crown, but were fo inimical alfo to the authority of the Pope, that, at the King's requeft, the Sovereign Pontiff himfclf thought pro- per to abrogate them ; although fome of the principal arti- cles which they enacted, were in favour of points, for which the great champion of the papal authority, the canonized Becker, had fufrered aflaflination. At Merton Abbey alfo, in 12 1 6, was concluded the peace between Henry III and Prince Lewis, MIC Lewis, the eldeft fon of Philip, King of France. During the civil wars, between Charles the Firft and the Parlia- ment, this abbey appears to have been ufed as a garrifou. In 1680, it was advertifed to be let, and was defcribed-as containing feveral large rooms, and a fine chapel. This chapel, fo late as the year 1733, was entire. At prefent, there is no other veftige of the abbey, but the eaft window of the chapel, which appears, from the ftyle of its architec- ture, to have been built in the I5th century. The walls which furround the premifes, including about 60 acres, are nearly entire, being built of flints. On the fite of the ab- bey (which, after thediflblution, patted into various hands) a manufactory for printing calicoes was eftabliflied in i 724; it is now occupied by Mefl". Newton, Hodgfon, and Leach Another calico manufactory, eftablifhed within thefe walls, in 1752, is now carried on by Mr. Half hide; and, at the northweft corner of the premifes, is a copper-mill, in the occupation of Mr. Thoytts. Upon a moderate computa- tion, a thoufand perfons are now employed in the different manufactories within the walls; a pleafing contraft to the monaftic indolence which reigned here in the gloomy ages of fuperftition. The parifh church was built of flints, early in the tath century, by the founder of the abbey. From the ftyle of architecture, there can be Jittle doubt that the prefent church was the original ftructure. It has been lately neatly piaftered on the outfide, and beautified in other refpects. The bridge over the river, built in 1633, is . remarkable for its arch, which is turned with tiles, inftead of brick or ftone ; and it is the boundary of the three parifhes of Mitcham, Wimbledon, and Merton. In thisparifli are Cannon Hill, the feat of William Mollefon, Efq ; and the villa of Mr. Graves, lately purchafed of Sir Richard Ho- tham. Farther on, in the road to Kingfton, Sir Richard has juft erected another villa, in a whimfical ftyle. MICKLEHAM, a village, at the foot of Box Hill, be- tween LeatherJ^ead and Darking. It is zo| miles from London, and is watered by the Mole. Here Sir Charles Talbot, Bart, has a feat; and, adjoining the Downs, is Ju- niper Hill, a handfome houfe, with curious plantations, late Sir Cecil Biftiop's, but now the property or Mr. Jenkinfon of Charing Crofs. R 3 MILL 1 86 MS O L MILL GREEN HOUSE, the feat of Alexander Allen, fq. in the parifh of Fryerning, two miles from Ingateftone, may juftly be ftyled a palace in miniature, being fitted up with uncommon elegance. The windows of the drawing- room, which front the eaft, command a beautiful profpect. The extenfive pleafure-grounds are planted with exquifite tafte; and great judgment is vifible in the garden, which has a capital green-houfe, hot-houfe, grapery, &c. JL MILL-HILL, a village in Middlefex, in the parifh of Hen- don, 9^- miles from London, has the handfome feat of Mr. Alderman Anderfon, which commands a beautiful profpect. MIMS, NORTH, a village in Hertfordfhire, two miles from Hatfield. In its neighbourhood was the feat of Sir Jofeph Jekyll, Matter of the Rolls, in right of his lady, heirefs to her brother the great Lord Somers. The body of that nobleman is interred in the chancel of the church, without any infcription. Here is Mims Place, the fine feat of the Duke of Leeds. MIMS, SOUTH, a village of Middlefex, 15 miles from London, in the road to St. Albans. The tower of the church, which ftands by the road-fide, is fo entirely mantled with ivy-, as to form a very piclurefque object. Sfe Gabions. M1TCHAM, a village in Surry, eight miles from Lon- don, on the road to Reigate. Mitcham Grove is the hand- fome feat of Henry Hoare, Efq. The river Wandle, which is an excellent trout ftream, winds through the plantations, and adds greatly to their beauty. On this river is creeled a fmall wheel, by which the water is conveyed in pipes to the higheft part of the houfe. In this parifh alfo are Col- lier's Wood Houfe, the feat of Francis Barlow, Efq; Ra- venfbury, the feat of the late Admiral Arbuthnot; and the villas of Mr. Bond and Mr. Cranmer. On the river are fome fnuff-mills, and the calico manufactories of Mr. Rucker and Mr. Penning. The latter has an engine, in cafe of fire, the pumps of which are worked by the fame wheel that is ufed in the bufinefs. In the chancel of the church is a monument to the memory of Sir Ambrofe Crowley, an Alderman of London, who died in 1713, and is celebrated in the Tatler, No. 73, under the name of Sir Humphrey Greenhat. MOLE, a river, in Surry, which rifes ia the fouth part of M O N 187 of the county, runs north to Darking, and pafling beneath Box Hill, is generally believed to difappear in its vicinity, and to rife again near Leatherhead. Hence Pope calls it The fullen Mole that hides his diving flood. But the fact is, that a tract of foft ground, near two miles in length, called the Swallows, in very dry feafons, abforbs the wafte water in caverns in the fides of the banks ; but not fo as to prevent a conftant ftream from taking its courfe in an open channel above ground, winding round in the vallies from Darking to Leatherhead; though not of that breadth as when it crofles the road at Mickleham ; beyond which, at Burford-bridge, its channel, in very hot feafons, is fometimes dry. This river, proceeding from Leather- head to Cobham, enters the Thames at Eaft Moulfey, on the fouth fide of Hampton bridge. MONKEY-ISLAND, in the centre of the Thames, be- tween Maidenhead and Windfor, and in the parifh of Bray. On this ifland, which contains three acres, is a neat houfe, with convenient offices, built by the late Duke of Marlbo- rough. On the ceiling of the room called Monkey Hall, is painted a variety of fuch flowers as grow by the water-fide. ' Here are alfo reprefented feveral monkies, fome fifhing, fome fhooting, and one fitting in a boat fmoking, while a female is rowing him over a river. In the temple, the in- fide of the faloon is enriched by ftucco modelling, repre- fenting mermaids, dolphins, fea-lions, and a variety of fifh and ftiells richly gilt. The eftablifhing of this delightful retreat, coft the Duke 10,000 guineas. The leafeof it, for thirty years, at 25!. a year, was fold by auction, in July 1787, for 240 guineas, to Henry Townley Ward, Efq. who has a feat in the neighbourhood. See The Willow*. MONTREAL, the handfome feat of Lord Amherft, fituate in the valley of Holmfdale, at Riverhead, near Se- venoaks. In the park is a column erected to perpetuate the happy meeting of this noble lord and his brother, who, after having having been engaged on different fervices, in diftant parts of the globe, during the laft war but one, and gained honour both to themfelves and their country, were permitted, by the favour of Heaven, to embrace each other on their native foot. MOOR l8S MO* MOOR PARK, nearRickmanfworth, in Herts, the feat of the late Lord Anfon, and now of Thomas Bates Rous, Efq. The park is extenfive and beautiful. The houfe was originally built by Cardinal Wolfey, and was afterward in the pofleffion of the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth. Then it came into the hands of Mr. Styles, who enlarged and beautified it, under the direction of Sir James Thornhill. From the fouth, or principal front, he made a vifta through the hill, that once obftrueled its view toward Uxbridge. He erected alfo a north front, and cut through the hill to- ward Watford, for a vifta. This circumftance did not efcape the cenfure of Pope : Or cut wide view* through mountains to the plain, You'll wifli y; ur hill or (belter' d feat again. This he thus explains in a note: " This was done in Hert- fordfhire, by a wealthy citizen, at the expence of above 5000!. by which means (merely to overlook a dead plain) he let in the north wind upon his houfe and parterre, which were before adorned and defended by beautiful woods." The houfe is built of ftone, of the Corinthian order. Tha principal front has a portico and pediment of four columns The offices are joined to the houfe by a beautiful circular colonnade of the Ionic order. Great improvements were made in the houfe and gardens by George Adams, Efq. to whom the united fortunes of his uncles devolving, he af- fumed the name of Anfon. The carriage of the ftone from London alone coft io,oool. Mr. Anfon foon after fold it, for 20,000!. to the late Sic Lawrence Dundas, Bart, whofe fon, Sir Thomas, compleated the improvements. This noble feat was fold by auftion to Mr. Rous, in 1787. MORDEN COLLEGE, on the eaft fide of Blackheath,. in the parifh of Charlton, for the fupport of decayed mer- chants, was creeled by Sir John Morden, Bart, a Turkey merchant, feveral years before his death, which happened in the year 1 708. It confifts of a large brick building, with two wings. The principal entrance is decorated with Doric columns, feftoons, and a pediment on the top, over which rifes a turret, with a dial; and from the dome rife a ball and vane. To this entrance there is an afcent by a flight f circular fteps j and having paffed through this part of the M O R 189 the building, we enter an inner fquare, furrounded by piazzas. The chapel has a coftly altar-piece. This ftrufture Sir John Morden erefted at a finall dif- tanre from his own habitation, and endowed it, after his Lady's deceafe, with his whole eftate, to the value of about 1300!. per annum. He placed in this hofpital twelve de- cayed Turkey merchants in his lifetime ; but Lady Moi*- den, finding thaf the fhare, allotted her by Sir John's will, was infurticient for her decent fupport, \vas obliged to re- duce the number to four. Upon her death, the number was increafed; there are now thirty-five; and the number being unlimited, is to be increafed as the efhte willafford ; for the building will conveniently hold forty. The treafurer has 40!. a year;- and the chaplain, who reads prayers twice a day, and preaches twice every Sunday, had at firft a falary of 30!. per annum, which Lady Mor- den doubled at her death. She was, in other refpecls, a benefaclrefs of the college, and, as (he had put up her huf- band's ftatue in a niche over the gate, the truftees put up her's in a niche adjoining. The penfioners have each 201. a year, and, at firft, wore a gown with the founder's badge ; but this has been long difufed. They have a com- mon table in the hall to eat and drink together at meals ; and each has two convenient rooms, with a cellar. The treafurer, chaplain, and penfioners, are obliged to refide in the college; and, except in cafe of ficknefs, no other perfons are to refide or lodge there. No perfon can be admitted as a penfioner under fixty years of age. Seven merchants have the direclion of this hofpital, and the nomination of the perfons to be admitted into it. To them the treafurer is accountable; and when any of thefe die, the furviving truftees choofe others in their room. MORDEN PARK, the elegant villa of Edward Polhill, Efq. is fituated at Morden, 10 miles from London, in the road to Epfom, on an eminence, happily formed by nature, and embelliflied by art. The extenfive pleafure-grounds are agreeably diversified by plantations, two fine meets of water, an elegant temple, tea-room, &c. MORTLAKE, a village of Suny, on the Thames, about feven miles from London. Great part of this parifh is in- clofed in Richmond Park. The ftone lodge, upon the hill, 190 M U S hill, was built after a defign of Henry Earl of Pembroke's, and was intended by George I, as a place of refreshment after the fatigues of hunting ; but it was not finifhed tilt the late Princefs Amelia became Ranger of the Park. Great quantities of afparagus are raifed in this parifli ; and, at the extremity of the parifh, toward Richmond, his Mnjefty has a farm of about eighty acres, in his own occu- pation. The manor, which is included in that of Wim- bledon, belonged once to the fee of Canterbury ; and the manor-houfe at Mortlake was occafionally the refidence of the archbifhops, from Anfelm, who celebrated the fealfc of Whitfuntide here in 1099, to Warham, who was the laft, andwhofe fucceflbr, Cranmer, alienated the manor to Henry VIII, in exchange for other lands. This monarch, at the diftblutioo, gave the manor to his new-erected Dean and Chapter of Worcefter, with the great tithes of the church at Wimbledon, on conditioa of their appointing three per- petual curates, to ferve the church there, and the two cha- pels of Mortlake and Putney. At Mortlake are the hand- fome houfe and gardens of Mr. Franks; and there is an ancient houfe, let to Mifs Aynfcomb, which is faid to have been the refidence of Oliver Cromwell ; but which was certainly the refidence, in the prefent century, of that ex- cellent man, Edward Colfton, Efq. the great benefactor of the city of JBriftol, who, in his lifetime, expended more than 70,000!. in charitable inftitutions. MOULSEY, two towns, fo denominated from the river Mole, which flows between them to the Thames. Eaft Moulfey is fituated oppofite Hampton Court, and was granted by Charles II, to Sir James Clarke, grandfather to the late Lord of the Manor, who had the ferry thence to Hampton Court, in the room of which he erected a hand- fome bridge, where a high toll is taken of all paffengers, carriages, &c. It is now the property of Lord Browniow. "Weft Moulfey has a ferry to Hampton Town, which be- longs to the fame nobleman. MUSWELLH1LL, a village in Middlefex, 5! miles from London, in the parifh of Hornley. It derives its name from a famous well on the hill, where formerly the fraternity of St John of Jerufalem in Clerkenwell had their dairy, with a large farm adjacent. Here they built a chapd NET Ipl chapel for the benefit of fome nuns, in which they fixed the image of our Lady of Mufwell. Thefe nuns had the fole management of the dairy ; and it is fingular, that the faid well and farm do, at this time, belong to the parifh of St. James, Clerkenwell. The water of this fpring was then deemed a miraculous cure for fcrophulous and cutaneous diforders. For that reafon, it was much reforted to; and, as tradition fays, a King of Scotland made a pilgrimage hither, and was perfectly cured. There is not within one hundred miles of London' a vil- lage, more rural and pleafant, or that can boaft more vari- ous and extenfive profpere plejfed with the furprife and fudjen performance thereof. Her courtier* difported themfelve* with th^-ir feveril exprefljons ; l'>me avowing it was no wonder he could fo foon change a building, who couiJ bu;U u change: others, reflecting on fome known differences in the Raight's family, af- firmed, that a houfe is eafier divided than united." ficentljr 2O2 OTFORD. ficently fitted up with the richeft hangings of filk, velvef, and gobelin ta peltry, elegantly-fculptured marbles, highly- enriched entablatures of mofaic work, &c. The decora- tions of the apartments difplay the great talents of the late Mr. Robert Ailum, the architect, and of Signior Zucchi, the painter ; and they were all fitted up by the late Robert Caild, Efq. who fucceeded his brother Francis in 1763. On the ceiling of the ftaircafe is the apotheofis of Wil- liam I, Prince of Orange, affcllinated at Delft, in 1584. The Picture Gallery is 130 feet by 27: among the paint- ings, are Charles I, Vandyck ; Villiers, the firft Duke of Buckingham, Rubens; Gipfies, Rofa; Morning and Even- ing, Claude Lonain; the Angel and To bit, S. Rofa; Apollo and the Sybil, Ditto; two Laudfcapes, G. Pouffin; Earl of Strafford, Vandyckj Jonas and the Whale, S. Rofa; and Conftantine's Arch, with figures and cattle, by Viviano and Bombaccio. In the Drawing Room, are Jacob and Rachael, Titian ; Samuel anointing David, Ditto; the Head of Vandyck, by himfelf; and others by Rembrandt, &c. From the lodges at the entrance of the park, we defcend a fpacious road, between two fine (beets of water, which, being on different levels, may be termed the upper and lower. The firft is oppofite the eaft front, and in view of the houfe. Though not large, it gives beauty and variety to this part of the park. The lower water is of much greater extent, and partly inclofed by woods, through which it makes a noble fweep. On the north fliore of this lake, is a menagerie, containing a fine collection of exotic birds. Here the lake bends to the N. W. and, at fome diftance, has a bridge of ftone: beyond this it begins to contract, and is foon loft to the eye. Mr. Child s only daughter having married the Earl of Weftmoreland, he left this eftate to the fecond fon of that nobleman, or, in default of a fecond fon, to any daughter who fliould firft attnin the age of 21 ; and, in either cafe, the faid fon or daughter to afllr.Tie the name of Child In confequence of this, the eftate is now vetted in the hands of Robert Dent, Efq. and others, in truft for Lady Sarah Child, the only daughter of the late Countefs. OTFORD, a village, three miles N. of Sevenoak?, where Offa, King of Mercia, defeated Lothaire, King of Kent. PAD 2O2 Kent. Offa, the treacherous murderer of EtheJbert, (See Page 19) to atone for the blood he had filed in this battle, gave Otford to Chrift Church, Canterbury, in pajc-ua porn- rum (as the deed fays) for fa/iitm far the Arcbkijbop't hogs. Such were the acts of piery, fo much efteemed in that fuper- liitions age, that Malmefbury, one ofthebeft of the old Englift) hiOorians, declares himfelf at a lofs to determine, whether the merits or crimes of this prince preponderated. Otford continued in the fee of Canterbury, till exchanged with Henry VIII, for other kinds. OTTERSHAW, the feat, with a fine park and gardens, of James Bine, Efq. four miles foil th weft of Chertley. OXHEY PLACE, inHertfordfliire, the feat of the Hon. William Grimfton, three miles fouth of Watford. P. PADDINGTON, a village N. W. of London. The church, a beautiful ftructure, erected in 1790, near the fite of the old church, is feated on an eminence, finely embofomed among venerable elms. Its figure is compofed of a fquare about 50 feet. Th; centres on each fide of the fqnare are projecting parallelograms, which give recefles for an altar, a veftry, and two ftaircafes. 7 he roof termi- nates with a cupola and vane. On each of the fides is a door. That facing the fouth is decorated with a portico, compofed of the Tufcan and Doric orders, having niches on the fides. The weft has an arched window, under which is a circular portico of four columns, agreeable to the former compofition. The whole does the higheft cre- dit to the tafte and fkill of the architect, Mr. John Flaw. Although Paddington is now contiguous to the metropolis, there art many rural fpots in the parifli, which appear as retired as if at a diftance of many miles. From this place a canal is making, which is to join the Grand Junction Canal at or near Hayes. Little Shaftfbury Houfe, in this parifli (near Kenfington Gravel 'Pits) is the feat of Am- brofe Godfrey, Efq. and is faid to have been built by the vfc of Shaftfbury, author of the Characteriftics, or by his grandfather, 204 PAINE'S HILL. grandfather, the Lord Chancellor. See Bayfajate>; Ty- bovrn, and lftj:b- w n Place. PAINF'S HILL, the elegant feat and celebrated gardens of the lute Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Efq. 20 miles from London, near the village of Cobham, but in the parifii of Walton upon I names. The gardens are formed on the verge of a moor, which rifes above a fertile plain watered by the river Mole. Large vallies, defcending in different directions toward the river, break the brow into feparate eminences; and the gardens are extended along the edge, in a (emicircular form, between the winding river which defcribes their outward boundary, and the park which fills up the cavity of the crefcent. The moor lies behind the place, and fometimes appears too confpicuoufly ; but the views on the other fides, into the cultivated country are agreeable. Paine's Hill, however, is little benefited by external circumftances ; but the fcenes, within itfelf, are grand and beautiful ; and the difpofition of the gardens affords frequent opportunities of feeing the feveral parts, the one from the other, acrofs the park, in a variety of ad- vantageous fituations. The houfe ftands on a hill, in the centre of the crefcent. The views are charming, and in the adjacent thicket is a parterre, and an orangery, where the exotic plants are in- termixed, during the fiimmer, with common fhrubs, and a conftant fucceifion of flowers. The hill is divided from another much Jarger by a fmall valley; and, on the top of the fecond eminence, at a feat juft above a large vineyard which over fp reads all the fide, and hangs down to the lake below, a fcene totally different ap- pears*. The general profpecl, though beautiful, is the leaft engaging circumftance ; the attention is immediately attracted from the cultivated plain to the point of a hang- ing wood at a diffonce, but ftill within the place. Oppo- fite to the hill thus covered is another in the country, of a iimilar fhape, but bare and barren; and beyond the open- ing between them, the moor, falling back into a wide con- * This vineyard formerly produced a great deal of wine; but it has been neglected for fome years, and no lunger deferves the name. cave, PAINE S HILL. 2O5 cave, clofes the interval. Had all thefe heights belonged to the fame proprietor, and been planted in the fame manner, thej would have compofed as great, as romantic a fcene, as any of thofe which we rarely fee, but always behold with admiration, the work of nature alone, matured by the growth of ages. But Paine's Hill is all a new creation ; and a boldnefs of defign, and a happinefs of execution, attend the won- derful efforts which art has there made to rival nature. Another point of the fame eminence exhibits a landfcspe, diftinguiflied from the laft in every particular, except in theaera of its exiftence: it is entirely within the place, and commanded from an open Gothic building, on the very edge of a high fteep, which rifes immediately above an artificial lake in the bottom. The whble of This lake is never feen at once; but by its form, by the difpofition of fome iflands, and by the trees in them and on the banks, it always feems to be larger than it is. On the left are con- tinued plantations, to exclude the country; on the right, all the park opens; arid, in front, beyond the water, is the hanging wood, the point of which appeared before; but here itllretchcs quite acrofs the view, and difplays all its extent and varieties. A river, ifluing from the lake, paffes under a bridge of five arches near the outlet, directs its courfe toward the wood, and flows underneath it. On the fide of the hill is couched a low herrr.itage, encompafT- ed with thickets, and overhung with fhnde ; and, far to the right, on the utmoft fummit, rifes a lofty tower, eminent above iil the trees. About the hermitage, the clofeft cover* and darkeft greens fpread their gloom : in other places the tints are mixed; and in one a little glimmering light marks an opening in the wood, and iiiverfifies its uniformity, without diminifhing its greatnefs. Throughout the illuftri- .ous fcene confiftency is preferved in the midft of variety; all the parts unite eafily: the plantations in the bot r om join to the wood which hangs on the hill j thofe on the upper grounds of the park break into groves, which afterward divide into clumps, and in the end taper into fingle trees. The ground is very various; but it points from all fides toward the lake, and, fhchening its ciefrent as it ap- proaches, Hides, at laft, gently into the water. The groves T and 206 PAINE'S HILJL. and lawns On the declivities arc elegant and rich ; the ex- panfe of the lake, enlivened by plantations on the banks, and the reflection of the bridge en the furface, animate the landscape; while the extent and height ot the hanging wood give an air of grandeur to the whole. An eafy winding defcent leads from the Gothic building to the lake, and a broad walk is afterward continued along the b.inks, and arrofs nn ifland, clofe to the water on one band, and Ikirted by weod on the other. The fpot is perfectly retired, but the retirement is cheerful ; the lake is calm, but it is full to the brim, and never darkened withfhadow; the walk is fmooth and ul mod level, and touches the very margin of the water; the wood, which (collides all view into the country, is compofed of the moft elegant trees, full of the lighteft greens, and bordered \vith ihrubs and flowers; and, though the place is almoft iurrounded with plantations, yet within itfelf it is open and airy. It is embellifhed with three bridges, a ruined arch, and .a grotto ; and the Gothic building, ftill very near, and impending directly over the lake, belongs to the place; but thefe objects are never vifible all together; they appear in fucceffion as the walk proceeds ; and their number does not crowd the fcene, which is enriched by their frequency. The tranfition is very fudden, almoft immediate, from this polifhed fpot, to another of the moft uncultivated na- ture; uot dreary, not romantic, but. rude: it is a wood, which overfpreads a large tract of very uneven ground. The glades through it are fometimes clofed on both fides with thickets ; at other times they are only cut through the fern in the openings ; and even the larches and firs, which are mixed with beech, on the fide of the principal glade, are left in fuch a ftate of apparent neglect, that they feem to be the product of the wild, not decorations of the walk. This is the hanging wood, which before was fo noble an. object, and ir now fuch a diftant retreat. Near the tower it is thin, but about the hermitage it is thickened with trees of the darkeft greens. A narrow gloomy path, over- himg with Scotch and fpruce firs, leads to the cell, com- pofed of logs and roots. The defign is as limple as the materials, and the furniture within old and uncouth. All the cireumftances which belong to the character are re- tained PAINE S HILL. 207 Gained in the utmoft purity, both in the approach and en. trance; in the fecond room they are fuddenly changed-for a view of the gardens and the country, which is rich- with every appearance of inhabitants and cultivation. From the tower, on the top of the hill, is another profpefl, much more extenfive, but not more beautiful: the objects are not fo well felected, nor feen to fo great advantage ; fume of them are too diftant ; fome too much below thq eye: and a large portion of the heath intervenes, which. caOs a cloud over the view. , Not far from tne tower is a fcene poliflied to the higheft degree of improvement, in which ftands a large Doric building, called the Temple of. Bacchus, with a fine por- tico in the front, a rich alto-relievo in the pediment, and on each fide a lange of pilaftetb: within, it N doomed with many antique buds, and a beautiful ant: pi? oiloiTal ftatue of the god in the centre: the room has m '^ of that folcmuity which is often affectedly alcribed to :..: character, but, without being gaudy, is Kul of li^ht, orna- ment, and fplendour. The fituation is on a. brow, which commands an agreeable profpedt ; but the top of the ulll is almoft a flat, diverfificd, however, by feveral thickets, and broad walks winding between them. Thefe walks run into each other fo frequently, their relation is fo ap- parent, that the idea of the whole is never loft in the dU vifions ; and the parts are, like the whole, large. They agree alfo inftyle: the interruptions, therefore, never de- ftroy the appearance of extent ; they only change the boun- daries, and multiply the figures. To the grandeur which the fpot receives from fucu dimenfions, is added all the richnefs of which plantations are capable ; the thickets are of flowering flxrubs : and the openings embtlli(hel with little airy groups of the rnoft tlegant trees, fkirting or crof- fing the glades ) but nothing is minute or unworthy of the environs of the temple. The gardens end here : this is one of the extremities of the creicent, and hence, to the houfe in the other extre- O'ity, is an open walk through the park. In the way, a tent is pitched, upon a fine fwell, jurt above the water, which is feen to greater advantage from this point than from auy other. Its broadelt expaub is at the foot of the T a hill : 2O8 PANCRAS. hill: from that it fprends in feveral directions, fbmetimrs under the plantat-oti-, fonutimes into the midft of them, and Rt other times winding behind them. The principal bridge of five arches is juft below. At a diftance, deep in the wood, is another, a. (ingle arch, thrown over a ftream which is loft a little beyond it. The pofition of the latter is directly athwart that of the former j the eye pafe along the one and under the other; and the greater is of ftone, the fmaller of wood. No two objects bearing the fame name can be more different in figure and fimation. The banks alfo of the lake are infinitely diverfified: they are open in one place, and in another covered with planta- tions, whidi ibmetimes come down to the brink of the water, and fomctimes leave room for a walk. The glades are either conducted along the fides, or open into the thicke-ft of the wood; and now and then they feem to turn round it toward the country, which appears in the off-kip, rifing above this picturefque and various fcene, through a wide opening between the hanging wood on one hand, and the eminence crowned with the Gothic tower on the other. 1 his place is to be feen only on Mondays, Wednefdays, and Fridays. The hoiife was built by Mr. Hopkins, but the enchanting fceneswe have been defcribing were created by Mr. Charles Hamilton. PANCRAS, an extenfive parifh of Middlefex, firuate N. of London, one mile from Holborn Bars. It not only includes one third of the hamlet of Highgate, but the ham- lets of Kentifh-town, Battle- bridge, Camden-town, and Somers-town, as well as all Tottenham-court Road, and all the ftreets to the weft, as far as Cleveland-ftreet and Rathbone-place. The church and churchyard, dedicated to St. Pancras, have been long noted as the burialplace for fuch Roman Catholics as die in London and its vicinity; alrhoft every ftone exhibiting a crofs, and the initials R. I. P. (Requiefcat in Pace May he reft in Peace) which initials are always ufed by the Catholics on their fepulchral monuments. " I have heard it affigned," fays Mr. Lyfons, ' by fome perfons of that perfuafion, as a reafon for this preference to Pancras as a burialplace, that before the Jate convulfions in that country, mafles were fuid in a church in the PAR 209 the fouth of France, dedicated to the fame faint, for the fouls of the deceafed interred at St. Pancras in England." The churchyard was enlarged in 1793, by the addition of a large piece of ground to the foutheaft. ID this pnrifli are likewife feveral chapels of eafe, and the cemeteries belong- ing to the parifhes of St. James, Weftminfter ; St. An- drews, Holborn ; St. George the Martyr; and St. George, Bloomfbury. The Foundling Hofpital, at the end of Lamb's Couduit-ftreet, is in this parifh ; in which alfo ia the Hofpital for Inoculation, to which a building was ad- ded, in .1795, for the hofpital for the reception of patient* with the natural fmall-pox, then removed from the fite in Cold Bath Fields. In Gray's Inn Lane, is the Welfh Charity School^ built in 1771. In a houfe, near the churchyard, is a mineral fpring, formerly called Pancras Wells, in great efteem fome years ago; and near Battle- bridge is another called St. Chad's. See Higbga& y Ken~ wood, Kent ijk- town, and Veterinary College. PARK-FARM PL4.CE, a beautirul villa, the property of Lady James, and refidence of Sir Benjamin Hammet, at Eitham. It is ornamented with pilafters of the Ionic order ; and the grounds are laid out with great tafte. PARSONS-GREEN, a hamiet to Fulham. Here was Peterborough Houfe, the feat and extenfive gardens of the great Earl of Peterborough, who was there often viiited'by Locke, Swift, &c. After the death of the late Earl, the houfe was fold to John Meyrick, Efq. but great part of the old building is pulled down, and the grounds are let to a market gardener. An ancient houfe, at die corner of the- Green, belonged formerly to Sir Edmund Saunders, Lord Chief Juftice of the King's Bench, in 1682, who raifed himfetf to that elevated fituation from the low flation of an errand boy in an attorney's chambers, in which he taugtr liimfelf writing, and ftrft obtained an infight into the law, by copying precedents, &c. in the abfence of the clerks. It was the reudence of Samuel Richardfon, the celebrated author of Sir Charles Grandifon, &c. A houfe on the eaft fide of the Green, built by Sir Francis Child, Lord Mayor of London in 1699, and modernized by the late John Powdi, Eiq. is now the refidence of Sir John Hales, Bart, T 3 PECKHAM, 210 PET PECKHAM, a hamlet of Camberwell. Here is a feat, built in the reign of James II, by Sir Thomas Fond, who, being engaged in the pernicious fchemes of that Prince, was obliged to leave the kingdom, when the houfe was plun- dered by the populace, and became forfeited to the Crown. It jvas afterward the feat of Lord Trevor. The front has a fpacious garden before it, from which extend two rows of Jarge elms. The kitchen garden, and the walls, were planted with the choiceft fruit trees from France ; and an experienced gardener was fent for from Paris to have the management of them ; fo that the collection of fruit-trees in this garden has been accounted one of the belt in Eng- land. It is now the property of William Shard, Efq. PENTONVILLE, a village, on a fine eminence to the weft of IHington. Although it joins that town, it is in the parifli of St. James, Clerkenwell; and when that parifk church was rebuilt by act of parliament, an elegant chapei here was made parochial. PETERSHAM, a village of Surry, 9! miles from Lon- don, fituate on the Thames, in the midft of the moil beau- tiful fcenery. The church was a chapel of eafe to King- flon, till 1769, when, by act of parliament, this parifh and Kew are now one vicarage. Here flood a feat, built by Lawrence Earl of Rochefter, Lord Treafurer in the reign of James II. It was burnt down in 1720; and the noble furniture, curious paintings, and ineftimable library and JUSS. of the great Earl of Clarendon, were deftroyed. On the fite of this houfe, William firft Earl of Harrington erected another, after one of the Earl of Burlington's dt- figns. On the death of the late Earl, it was fold to Lord CameJford, of whom the Duke of Clarence bought it, in 1 790. It was fold, in 1 794, to Colonel Cameron ; and is BOW the refidence of Sir William Manners, Bart. The front, next the court, is very plain ; but the other, next the garden, is bold and regular, and the ftate apartments on that fide are extremely elegant. The pleafure grounds are fpacious and beautiful, extending to Richmond Park, a fmall part of which has been added to them by a grant from his Majefty, including the Mount; where, according to tradition, Henry VJII rtood to fee the fignal for Anne Boley n's execution. FIRMER, POP 211 PINMER, a hamlet to Harrow on the Hill, from which town it is diftant about three miles. Though not paro- chial, it had once a weekly market, along ago difufed. PISHIOBURY, near Harlow, the feat of Jonathan Mi lies, Efq. faid to have been built by Inigo Jones, for Sir Walter Mildmay. Mr. Milles has made great improve- ments in the grounds, which are watered by the Stort ; a river, navigable from Stortford to the Lea. PLIASTOW, a village in the parim of Weft Ham. It gives the name of Plaiftdw Levels to the low laud between the mouth of the river Lea and Ham Creek. PLAISTOW, a village near Bromley, in Kent. Here is the feat of Peter Thelluflbn, Efq. fitted up in a ftyle of ele- gance, fcarcely to be equalled in the kingdom. PLUMSTED, a village in Kent, between Woolwich and Erith, on an eminence rifing from the Thames, has a very neat church, and had formerly a market. POLESDEN, in the parifh of Great Bookham, the^no- ble feat of Sir William Geary, Bart, on an eminence, which commands a beautiful profpeft. Behind the houfe are the fined beech woods imaginable. POPLAR, a hamlet of Stepney, on the Thames, to the eaft: of Limehoufe, obtained its name from the great num- ber of poplars that anciently grew there. The chapel was erefted in 1654, by fubfcripticn, the ground being given by the Eaft India Company; fince which time that Com- pany have not only allowed the Minifter a houfe, with a garden and field containing three acres, but aol. a year dur- ing pleafure. It was nearly rebuilt by the Company in 1776. The chaplain's falary is now rool. with the pew rents and burial fees. Here is an hofpital belonging to the Company, in which are zz penfioners, (fome men, but more widows) who have a quarterly allowance, according to the rank which they, or the widows' hulbands, had on board ; and a chaldron of coals annually. There are alfo many out- penfioners belonging to the Company. Poplar Marfli, called alfo Stepney Marfh, or the Ifle of Dogs, is reckoned one of the richeft fpots in England; for it not only raifes the largeft cattle, but the grafs is efteemed a great reftorative of all diftempered cattle ; and cattle turned into it foon fatten, and grow to a large fize. In this 212 PUT this marfh was aa ancient chapel, called the Cfiapel of St, Mary; perhaps an hermitage, founded by fome devout perfons, for the piirpofe of faying malles for the fouls of ma- riners. OP. its foundation, ftili vifible, is a neat farm-houfe. FOR i ER'S LODGE, the feat of Earl Howe, 14} miles from London, fituate between Radlet and Colney Street, on the right hand of the road from Edgware to Sc. Albans. PRIMROSE HILL, between Tottenham Court and Hampftead, has been alfo called Green-Bervy-Hill, from the names of the three pt-rfons who were executed for the fuppofed aflafii nation of Sir Edmundbury Godfrey, and who were faid to have brought him hither after he had been murdered near Somerfet Houfe. But Mr. Hume, while he confidersthis tragical affair as not to be accounted for, choofes, however, to fufpecl, that that magiftrate had murdeied himfelf. Hume, fr'ol. f^Ill.p. 77. PROSPECT PLACE, the villa of James Meyrick, Efq. on an eminence, in the road from Wimbledon to Kingfton. The grounds are well laid out, and command a rich view. PURFLEET, in Ellcx, 19 miles from London, on the Thames, has a public magazine for gunpowder, which is depofited in detached buildings, that are all bomb-proof; fo that, in cafe an accident fhould happen to one, it would not atfedl the others. Each of thefe buildings has a con- duftoK. This place has alfo fome extenfive tome-works. PURLEY, in the parifli of Sanderfted, two miles be- yond Croyden, lately the delightful refidence of John Home Tooke, Efq. whence an ingenious philological work, by that gentleman, derived the fingular title of " The DL- verfions of Puriey." This houfe was the feat of Bradfhaw, prefident of the court at the trial of King Charles I ; a cir- cumllance to which Mr. Tooke humoroufly alludes in his introduction to the abovementioned work. It is now oc- cupied by the Rev. Mr. Tohnfon from Hengal. PUTNEY, a village in Surry, on the Thames, five miles from London, the birthplace of the unfortunate Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Eflex, whole father was a blackfmith here. Tt gave birth too, to Nicholas Weft, Bifhop of Ely, an eminent ftatefman of the fame reign, whafe father was a baker. In 1647, the head quarters of the army of the Parliament were at Putney. Gtcccai Fairfax was then quartered PUTNEY. 213 quartered at the ancient houfe, now the property of Mrs. 1). Aranda. Ireton was quartered in a houfe, which is now a fchool belonging to the Rev. Mr. Adams. An obelifk was erected, in 1786, on Putney Common, on the fide of which, toward the road, is. an infcription, import- ing, that it was creeled 1 10 years after the fire of London, pn the anniverfary of that dreadful event, in memory of an "invention for fecuring buildings againft fire ; an infcription toward Putney records a refolution of the Houfe of Com- mons, in 1774, granting /5ool. to David Hartley, Efq. for this invention j on the fide toward London, is a refolution of a Court^ of Common Council, granting the freedom of the city to Mr. Hartley, in confideration of the advantages likely to accrue to the public, from this invention ; and, on tht fide toward Kingfton, is their refolution, ordering this obelifk to be creeled. Near it, is a houfe three ftories high, and two rooms on a floor, built by Mr. Hartley, with fire-plares be- tween the ceilings and floors, in order to try his experiment?, of which no lefs than fix were made in this houfe, in 1776; one, in particular, when their Majefties, and fome of the Royal Family, were in a room over the ground floor, while the room under them was furioufly burning. On Putney Common, in the road to Roehampton, are the agreeable villas of Lady Annabella Polwarth, Lady Grantham, the Right Hon. Thomas Steele, Andrew Berke- ley Drummond, Efq. James Macpherfon, Efq. and Beilby Thomfon, Efq. On the fide of the Thames, is Copt Hill, the late refidence of the Countefs Dowager of Lincoln, and a houfe the property of Simeon Warner, Efq. Between the roads which lead to Wandfworth and Wimbledon, is the late villa of Mrs. Wood, widow of the late Robert Wood, Efq. fo well known to the public as a fcfentific tra- veller and a claflical traveller. The farm and pleafure grounds, which adjoin the houfe, are very fpacious, and command a beautiful profpecl: of London and the adjacent country. Mr. Wood purchafed it of the executors of Ed- ward Gibbon, Efq. whofe fon, the celebrated hiftorian, was born there. It is now empty, and is to be fold. In Put- ney Lane (leading to Putney Common) are the villas of Godfehall Johrifon, Efq. Lady Barker, Walter Boyd, Efq. ai.d Sir John Earner. The 114 RANELAGH. The partfh chxrrch of Putney, which is a p?rnetual curacy, is fituated by the water fide, and is very limlai to fheoppofiteone at Fulham. In the road from V\ amlf- worth to rlic.-mond, is a new cemetery, the ground tor which was given to the parifh, in 1763, by the Rev. Roger Pettiward, D. D. R. RAGMAN'S CASTLE, a pretty box on the banks of the Thames, at Twickenham, fo named from a cot- tage that once Itood there, built by a dealer in rap t s. It is fo hkt by trees as hardly to be ieen. It was formerly the refidence of Mrs. Prttchard, the celebrated a&rtfs, and is the pro^-Tty of George Hardinge, Efq. RAIN HAM, a village in Effex, 15 miles from London, and one from the Thnmes, where there is a ferry to Frith. The road hence to Purfket commands an extenfive view of the Thames and the Marfhes, which are here uncommonly fine, and are covered with prodigious numbers of cattle. RANELAGH, a celebrated rotundo, fituate on the Thames, on the fouth fide of Chelfea Hofpiral. It is in high efteem, as well for beauty and elegance, as for being the fafhionable place of refort, in thefpring and part of the fummer evenings, for the moft polite company. It is opened on Eafter Monday, and continues open every Man- day, Wednefday, and Friday evening, till about the begin- ning of July, when it is opened on Friday only ; and the feafon clofes after the Prince of Wales' birthday. Parties that choofe to go by water, will find a conve- nient landing-place, at the bottom of the garden. There are two ways for carriages ; namely, from Hyde Park Coi'her, and Buckingham Gate. For thofe who choofe to walk, the beft way is through St. James's Park to Buck- ingham Gate, from which Ranelagh is about three quar- ters of a mile diftant. The road is lighted all the way. The admiffion-money is as. 6d. which is paid to a per- fon attending at the front of RaneJagh Houfe. Then, proceeding forward, you pafs through the dwelling-houfe, and, defcending a flight of fteps, enter the garden ; but, in bad weather, the company turn on the left band, go through the RANELAGH. 215 the houfe, and, defcending a flight of fteps, enter a matted avenue, which leads to the roiundo. Ranelagh was the feat of an Irifh Earl of that title, in who'e tin e the gardens were ex tenfive. On his death the ettav was fold, and the principal part of the gardens was converted into rields ; but the houfe remained unal- tered. Parr of the gardens was iikewife permitted to remain. Some gentlemen and builders having become purchafers of thefe, a refolutjon was taken to convert them info a place of entertainment. Accordingly, Mr. Wil- liam Jones, architect to the Eaft India Company, drew the plan of the prefent rotundo, which is an illuftrlous monu- ment of his genius and fancy. It being confidered that the building of fuch a ftrufture with ftone would amount to an imtYicnieexpence, the pro- prietors refolved to erec~l it with wopd. This ftruclure was accordingly erected in 1 740. It is a noble edifice, fomewhat refembling the Pantheon at Rome. The external diameter is 185 feet, the internal 1 50. The entrances are by four Doric porticos oppofite eaih other, and the firft ftory is ruftic. Round the whole, on tht outlide, is an arcade, and over it a gallery, the ftairs to which are at the porticos ; and over head is a dated co- vering, which projects from the body of the rotundo. Ovtrr the gallery are the windows, fixty in number; and over them the flated roof. The firft object that ftrikes the fpe&ator, in the infide, is what was formerly the orcheftra, but is now called the fireplace, creeled in the middle of the rotundo, reaching to the ceiling, and fupporting the roof ; but it being found too high to give the company the full entertainment of the mufic, the performers were removed into another or- cheftra, creeled in the fpace of one of the porticos. The former, however, ftill remains. It is a beautiful ftruclure, formed by four triumphal arches of the Doric order, di- vicied from each other by proper intervals, which, with the arches, form an oftagon. The pillars are divided into two ftories. The firft are painted in imitation of marble: the fecond are painted white, and flnttd ; and the bafe of each is lined with looking-glafs, againtt which are placed the patent lamps. The pillars are iurmounted by tcrmiui of 21 6 DANELAGH. of plafter of Paris. The infide of the four arches is de- corated with mafks, rmifiral innrumcnts, &c. painted in pannels, on a flcy-blue ground. Above thefe arches was the orchfftru, which is now clofed up. The eight compart- ments which are made by the termini, and were formerly open, are decorated with paintings of niches, with vafes. Two of the compartments over the arches are ornamented with figures painted in ftone colour : in a third, is a clock ; and, in the fourth, a wind-dial. The pillars, which form the four triumphal arches, are the principal fupport of the roof," which, for fize and manner of conftruction, is not to be equalled in Europe. The aftonifhing genius of the architect is here concealed from our view by the ceiling ; but it may be eafily conceived, that fuch a roof could not be fuppoited by any of the ordinary methods j and if the timber-works above were laid open, they would ftrike the fpeclator with amazement, The fpace on which this ftrufture {hinds, is inclofed by a baluftrade; and, in the centre of it, is one of the moft curious contrivances that ever the judgment of man could form. It conlllls of a fireplace that cannot fmoke, or be- come offenfive. In cold weather it renders the rotundo warm and comfortable. The chimney has four faces,- and by tins over each of them, which are taken off at plea- lure, the heat is increafed or diminished ; but the chief merit confifts in having furmounted the many difficulties, and aimoft impoffibilities, in erecting and fixing this fire- place, which every architect, on the flighteft examination, will inftantly perceive. The faces are formed by four ftone arches, and over each of them is a ftone pediment. The corners of the four faces are fupported by eight pieces of cannon, with iron fpikes driven into them, and filled up with lead. Theft- have the appearance of black marble pillars. In the fixing of thefe, for the fuppcrt of the whole chimney, icveral ineffectual attempts were made be- fore the preient durable pofition was hit on. On the pe- diments, and in the fpace between each of them, are eight flower-branches of fmall glafs kmps, which, when lighted, look txtremely brilliant, and have apleafing effect. Above the pediments are four niches in wood, in each of which is a painting ; and over them is a dome, which terminates this RANELAGH. 217 this inner ftruclure. The chimney, which proceeds to the top of therotundo, is of brick. The band of mufic confifts of a felecl number of per- formers, vocal and inftrumental, accompanied by an organ. The concert begins about feven o'clock, and after finding feveral fongs, and playing feveral pieces of mufic, at proper intervals, the entertainment clofes about ten. Round the rotundo are 47 boxes for the accommoda- tion of the company, with a table and cloth fpread in each. In thefe they are regaled, without any further expence, with tea or coffee. In each of thefe boxes is a painting of fome droll figure ; and between each box hangs a large bell- lamp with one candle in it. The boxes are divided frorrj each other by wainfcoting and fquare pillars. The latter are in front, and being each of them main timbers, are part of the fupport of the roof. Each pillar is cafed ; and the front of every other pillar is ornamented, from top to bottom, with an oblong fquare looking-gjafs in a gilt frame, high above which is an oval lookin^-glafs in a gilt frame; the intervening pillars beins; each ornamented with a painting of a vafe with flowers, furmounted by an oval looking-glafs in a gilt frame : and over each box' is a painted imitation of a red curtain fringed with gold. Before the droll paintings above-mentioned were put up, the backs of the boxes were all blinds that could be taken down at pleafure. But it being apprehended, that many perfons might catch cold by others indifcreetly moving them at improper times, it was refolved to put up paint- ings, and to fix them. Thefe paintings were made for blinds to the windows at the time of the famous mafque- rades : the figures, at that d'ulance, looked very well, and feemed to be the fize of real life : but now, being brought too near to view, they look prepofterous. At the bade of each box was formerly a pair of folding-doors, which opened into the gardens, and were defigned for the ronveniency of going in and coming out of them, without being obliged to go to the grand en-trances. Each of thefe boxes will coin- mod ioufly hold eight perfons. * Over the boxes is a gallery, fronted with a baluftradc, nnd pillars painted in the refemblance of marble encircled with feftooas of flowers in a Ipiral form, and furmounted U Uv 21 8 RANELAGH. 1i v termini of phfter of Paris. This gnllery contains the like number of boxes, with a lamp in the front of each. At the diftance of 12 boxes from the oiohehVi, on the right hand, is the Prince's box, for the reception of any of the Royal Family. It is hung with p per nd ornamented, in the front, with the Prince of WaJes's creft. Round the fireplace are a number of tables, and benches covered with red baize, their backs painted with feftoons of flowers on a fky-blue ground. The pediments of the porticos within are ornamented with paintings adapted to the defign of the place. The ftirface of the floor is plafter of Paris, over which is a mat, to prevent the company from catching cold by walking; upon it. The mat anfwers another ufefnl pnr- pofe ; for, if the company were to walk on boards, the noife made by their heels would b^ fo great, that it would be irnpofiible to hear any thing elfe. The ceiling is a ftone-colour ground, on which, at pro- per intervals, are oval pannels, each of which has a paint- ing of a beautiful celeftial figure on a fky-blue ground. Feftoons of flowers, and other ornaments, connect thefe oval pannels with each other, and with fome fmallcr fquare pannels, on which are A.rabefque ornaments in ftone co- lour, on a dark-browr ground. From the ceiling deicend 28 chandeliers, in two circles: each chandelier is orna- mented with a gilt coronet, and the candles are contained in i 7 bell lamps. Twenty chandeliers are in the external circle, and eight in the internal. When all thefe lamps are lighted, it may be imagined that the h'ght muft be very glorious; no words can exprefs its grandeur; and then do the mafterly difpofition of the architect, the proportion of the parts, and tii^ harmonious diftinftion of the feveral pieces, appear to the greateft advantage; the moft minute part, by this effulgence, lying open to infpeolion. The propriety and artful arrangement of the feveral objech are fxpreftive of the intention of this edifice; and {his, indeed, rnav be faid of Ranelagh, that it is one of thofe public places of entertainment, that for beauty, elegance, and grandeur, are not to be equalled in Europe. Formerly this rotundo was a place for public break- fafiing: bat that cuflom being regarded as detrimental to iocie iy R E I 219 fociety, by introducing a new fpecies of luxury, was fupprelTed by act of parliament in all places of 'entertain- ment. Ranelagh was not a place of note, till it was ho- noured, in the late reign, with the famous mafqueracles, which brought it into vogue; and it has ever fince re- tained the favour of the public. But thefe mafquerades being thought to have a pernicious tendency, have been Jong difcontinucd ; although that entertainment has beea fometimes revived on very extraordinary occafions. Fire- works, of late years, have b;en often exhibited in the gar- dens, in a magnificent ityle, accompanied by a reprefenta- tion of an eruption of Mount /Ktna, &c. During the fea- fon, the rotundo and gardens are open in the day time, when the price of admittance is one (hilling each perfon. The gardens are ornamented with avenues of trees, a grove, canal, &c. No liquors are fold in the gardens, either in the day time, or in the evnning. To prevent the admittance of fervants, the proprietors have creeled a convenient amphitheatre, with good feats, for their reception only : it is fituatcd in the coachway leading to Ranelagh Houfe, and at fuch a fmall diftance, that the fervants can anfwer, the inllant they are called. RANMER COMMON, a very elevated and extenfive common, one mile from Darking, commanding fome fine vi-j vs, in which St. Paul's Cathedral, Weftminfter Abbey, and Windfor Caftle, are diftinftly fcen. RKIGATE, aboiough in Surry, in the valley of Hol- mefdaie, 21 miles. from London. It had a caltle, built by the Saxons, on the eaft (ide of the town, fome ruins of which.- are ftill to be feen ; particularly a long vault, with a room at the end, large enough to hold 500 perfons ; where the Barons, who took up arms againft John, are faid to have had their private meetings. Its market-houfe was once a chapel. The neighbourhood abounds with fuller's earth and medicinal plants. On the fouth fide of the town is a large houfe, formerly a priory. It belongs to Mrs. Jones, is beautified with plantations and a large piece of water, and is furrounded by hills, which raider the profpect very romantic. In this town the Earl of Shaftefbury, author of The Cha- ra&eriftics. had a lioufe. to which,, he retired to fec.lude U z himfclf ^20 R I C himfclf from company. It came afterward into the- poiid- fionofa gentleman, who planted a fmall fpot of grovind in fb many .parts, a-> to comprife whatever can be fuppofed in ihe mofi noble feats. It may properly be deemed a model, and is called, b~y the inhabitants of Reigate, " The world in one acre." It is now the feat of Richard Barnes, Efq. RICHIXG PARK, near Colnbrook, in Bucks, a new fe;:t, erected by John Sullivan, Efq. It (lands. on tlte lite of Percy Lodge, the refidence of Frances Countefs of Hertford, afterward Duchefs of Somerfet, the Cleora of j\Its. Ro\ve, and the Patronefs, whom Thomfou invokes in his " Spring." " It was her practice," fays Dr. John- fon, " to invite, every fummer, fome poet into the country, to hear her verfes, and aflift her ftudies. This honour was one fummer conferred on Thomfon, who took more de- light in caroufing with Lord Hertford and his friends, th.ui af.itting her Ladyfhip's poetiral operations, and there- tote never received another fummons." But whatever were the merits of this excellent lady's poetry, fome of her letters, which have been publiflied, evince, in the opinion of Shenftone, u a perfect rectitude of heart, delicacy of fen- timent, and a truly claffic eafe and elegance of fryle." RICHMOND, in Surry, 8| miles from London, the finelt village in the Britifh dominions, was anciently called Ske/Jt which, in the Saxon tongue, fignifies refplfnJmt. Fror.i- the lingubr beauty of its fituation, it has been termed the Frefcali of England. Here ftood a royal palace, in which Edward I and II refided, and in which Edward III died of grief, for the lofs of his heroic fon the Black Prince. Here alfo died Anne, Queen of Richard II, who firft taught the Englifh ladies the ufe of the fide-faddle : for, before her time, they rode aftride. Richard was fo afflicted at her death, that he deferted and defaced the fine palace ; but it was repaired by Henry V, who founded three religious houfcs near it. In 1497, it was deftroyed by fire ; but^ Henry VII rebuilt it, and commanded that the village' fhould be called Richmond ; he having borne the title of Earl of Richmond before he obtained the crown ; and here he died. Queen Elizabeth was a prifoner in this pa- lace, for a fhort time, during the reign of her fifter. When flie became Queen, it was one of her favourite places of refidencc ; RICHMOND. 221 refidence ; and here fhe clofed her illuftrious carder. It was afterward the reUdence of Henry Prince of Wales ; and Bp. Duppa is faid to have educated Charles II heVe. It is not now eafy to afcertain when this royal palace absolutely ceafed to be fuch. Some parts of it appear to have been repaired by James II, whofe fort, the Pretender, it is laid, was nurfed here. [&* Bp. Bur net, yd. f. p. 753.} It is not totally demolifhed. " The houfcs now let on. leafe to "William Robertfon and Matthew Skinner, Efquires, as well as that in the occupation of Mr. Dundas, which ad- joins the gateway, are parts of the old paJace, and are de- fcribed in the furvey taken by the Order of Parliament in 1649; and, in Mr. Skinner's garden, ft ill exifts the old yew-tree, mentio;ied in that funrey. [Set Lyfms, fel. l.p, 441.} On the fite of this palace alfo is Cholinondeley Houfe, built by George third Earl of Cholmondetey, who adorned the nobl-e gaJlery with his ftne coileclion'of pic- tures. It is now the property of the Duke of Queeniberry, who transferred hither the pictures and furniture from his feat at Ambrelbury. The tapeftry, which hung behind the Earl of Clarendon, in the Court of Chancery, now de- corates the hall of this houfe. A large houfe, the property of Mrs. Sarah Way, and the refidence of herfelf and her fefter, the Countds Dowager of Northampton, is alfo on the fite of this palace, as is the elegant villa of Whitflied Keene, Efy built by the late sir Charles Afgill, Bart, trom a defign of Sir Robert Taylor's. There was formerly a park adjoining Richmond Green, called the Old, or Little Park, to diftinguifh it from the extenflve one, made by Charles I, and called the New Park. In this Old Park was a lodge, the Jcafe of which was grantsd, in 1 707, for 99 year.s, to James Duke of Or- mond, who rebuilt the houfe, and refi'led there till his im- peachment in i 7 1 5, when he retired to> Pans. Soon after, George II, then Prince of Wa^V purchafed the remainder of th<; Jeafe, (which, after the Duke's impeachment, was verted in the Earl of Arran,) and made the Lodge his refi- dence. It was~ pulled dow in 1772, at which time his Majefty, who had fometimes relided in it, had an inten- tion of building a new- palace on the lite. The founda- tions wete actually laid : and, in the public Dining Room U 3 & 222 RICHMOND* at Hampton Court, is the model of the intended palacev Not far from the lite of the lodge, {lands the obfervatory, built by Sir William Chambers, in 1769. Among a very fine let of inftruments, are particularly to be noticed a mu- ral arch of 140 degrees, and eight feet radius j a zenith ftctor of 12 feet ; a tranfit inftrument of 8 feet ; and a ten- feet reflector by Herfchel. On the top of the building is a moveable dome, which contains an equatorial inftrument. The obfervatory contains alfo a collection of fubjects in natural hiftory, well preferved ; an excellent apparatus for philofophical experiments, fome models, and a collection of -ores from his Majefty's mines in the foreft of Hartz in Germany. A part of Old Park is now a dairy and grazing- farm in his Majefty's own hands. The remainder confti- ' tuteb the royal gardens, which were altered to their pre- fent form by Brown, to whofe exquifite tafte in the embel- lifhment of rural fcenery, the didactic poet paid this me- .rited eulogy, while tie was living to enjoy it : H'm too, the living leader of thy powers, Oieat Nature ! him the Mufe flial] hail in notes, Which antedate the praife true genius claims From juft pbrterity. Bards yet unborn Shnll pay to Brown that tribute, fitlieft paid l:i drains, the beauty of his fcenes infpire. ' MASON. Inftead of the trim formality of the ancient ftyle, we now fee irregular groups of trees adorning beautiful fwel ling lawns, interfperfed with flirubberies, broken clumps, and folemn woods ; through the recefles of which ate walks, that lead to various parts of thefe delightful gar- dens. The banks, along the margin of the Thames, are judicioufly varied, forming a noble terrace, which ex- tends the whole length of the gardens ; in the S. E. quarter of which, a road leads to a fequeftered fpot, in which ,is a cottage, that exhibits the moft elegant (impli- cit v. Here is a collection of curious foreign and domeftic beafts, as well as of many rare and exotic birds. Being a favourite retreat of her Majefty's, this cottage is kept .ki great neatnefs. The gardens are open to the Public, every Sunday, from Midfu miner till toward the end of Autumn. At RICHMOND. 223 At the foot of Richmond Hill, on the Thames, is the villa of the Duke of Buccleugh. From the lawn there is a fubterraneous communication with the pleafu re grounds on the opponte fid,e of the road, which extends almoft to the fummit of the hill. Near this is the charming refidence of Lady Diana Beauclerk, who has herfelt decorated one of the rooms with lilachs and other flowers, in the fame man- ner as at her former relidence at Twickenham. Here like- wife are the villas of the Duke of Clarence, the Earl of Leicefter, Sir Lionel Darell, bart. &c. On Richmond Green is a houfe belonging to Vifcount Fitzwilliam, whofe maternal grandfather, Sir Matthew Decker, Bart, an eminent Dutch mei chant, built a room here for the reception of George L. In this houfe is an an- cient painting of Richmond Palace by Vinkeboom : and there is another, faid to be the work of one of Rubens' fcholars, and fuppofed to reprefent the Lodge in the Old Park, before it was pulled down by the Duke of Ormond. The Green is furrounded by lofty elms, and, at one cornqr of it, is a, theatre, in which, during the fummer-feafon, dramatic entertainments are performed. The town runs up the hill, above a mile, from Eaft Sheen to the New Park, with the Royal Gardens doping all the way to the Thames. Here are four alms-houfes ; one of them built by bifhop Duppa, in the reign of Charles II, for ten poor widows, pui fuant to a vow he made during that Prince's exile.. An elegant ftone bridge, of five femi- circular arches, from a defign by Paine, was erected here . in '777- . ; The fummit of Richmond Hill commands a luxuriant pi ofpecr, which Thomfon, who refided in this beautiful place, has thus celebrated in his Seafons : Say, (hall we afcend Thy hill, delightful Sheen ? Here let us fwcep The boundlefs landscape : now the raptur'd eye, Exulting fwift, to huge Augufta fend ; Now to the fifter-hilU* thit fli'n t her plain, To lofty Harrow now, and now to where Majeftic Windfor lifts his princely brow. In lovely contraft to this glorious view, * Higbgate and Hampfteud. Calmly 224 RICHMOND. dimly magnificent, then will we turn To where the lilvcr Thames firft rural Th-'rc let the feafted eye u:uve.inJ ilray : Luxurious, there, rove thro' the pendent woods, That nodainjj hang o'er Ham niton's ictreat ?* And fto ping thence to Ham's. embowering wa!ks,-J- Here lee us trace the match i-fi v.tlc of Thames; Far-winding up to wlieie the mules haunt In Twit'nam how'rs ; to royal Hampto/s pile, To Clarcmont's terrafs'd height, and Elher's groves. Enchanting vile ! beyond wha;c'er the mule Has of Achaii, or Hd'peiia it) ;g! O vale or'blf, I O forcly-fweiling hilh ! , On which thr Power of Cul:iv.iti,>n !ies r And j<.ys to (e the wonder ot his toil. Heav'ns ! what a goodly profpeil fpread* around, Of hills,, and dales, and woods, and law s, a id ipi Ard glitt'rir)g towns, and gildea (rreims, till all The fltretching landfcape into ("moke decays. Thomfon's refidence was at Rofsdalc Houfe, now in the pofleffion of the Hon. Mrs. Bofcawen, in Kew-foot Lane, It was purchafed, after his kath, by George RoCs, Efq. who, out of veneration to his memory, forbore to pull it down, but enlarged and improved it at the expetice of 9000!. Mrs. Bofcawen has repaired the poet s favourite feat in the garden, and placed in it the table on which he wrote his verfes. Over the entrance is infcribed: HereThomfon fung the Seafons and their Change.* The infide is adorned with fuitable quotations from au- thors who have paid due compliments to his talents; and in the centre appears the following inftription : " Within this pleafing retirement, allured by the mufic of the nightin- gale, which warbled in foft unifon to the melody of his foul, in unaffected cheerfulnefs, aud genial though fimple elegance, lived James Thomfon. Senfibly aiive to all the beauties of Nature,'he painted their images as they rofe in review, and poured the whole profufion of them into his inimitable Seafons. Warmed with intenfe devotion to the Sovereign of the Univerfe, its flame glowing through all his compofitions; animated with unbounded benevolence, * Pctcdham Lodge. -j- Hnra Hoafe, with RICHMOND PARK. 225 with the tendered focial fenfibility, he never gave one mo- ment's pain to any of his fellow-creatures, fave onl? by his death, which happened at this place, on the 2zd of Auguft, 1748." Thomibn was buried at the weft end of the north aifle of Richmond church. There was nothing to point out the fpot of his interment, till a brafs tablet, with the following infcription, was lately put up by the Earl of Buchan : * In the earth below this tablet are the remains of James Thomfon, author of the^beautiful poems entitled, The Seafons, The Caftle of Indolence, &c. who died at Richmond on the 2;th of Auguft, and was buried there on the zgth O. S. 1748. The Earl of Buchan, unwilling that fo good a man and fweet a poet ihould be without a me- morial, has denoted the place of his interment for the fatis- fa&ion of his admirers, in the year of our Lord 1/9*.* Underneath, is this quotation from his ; Winter :' Father of Light and Life, Thou Good Supreme ! O, teach me what is gtwxi ! teach me Thy fell'! Sive me from folly, vanity, and vice, Prom cvoy low purfuit I auJ feed my fnul \Viih knowledge, confcious peace, and virtue pure ; Sacred, fubftantia!, never-fading blifs. RICHMOND PARK, formerly called the Great or the New Park, to diftinguifii it from that which was' near the Green, was made by Charles I. Sir RobeVt Walpole (afterward Earl of Orford) was fond of hunting in this Park, and his fon, Rooert Lord Walpole, being the Ran- ger, he built the Great Lodge for him, and thus paid no- bly for his amufement. This is an elegant ftone edifice, with wings on each fide of brick. It ftands on a riling ground, and commands a very good profpeft of the park, efpecially of the fine piece of water. When Lord Wal- pole, afterward fecond Earl of Orford, died, the Princefs Amelia was appointed Ranger. While it was in her hands, the public right to a foot-way through the Park, was eftablifhed by the iflue of a trial at law, in 1758, at Kingfton Afiizes, in confequence of which decifion, ladder- gates were put up at fome of the entrances. Here alfo is another Lodge, called the Stone Lodge. See Mortlnke. This park is eight mile's iu circumference! and contains 225$ acres, 226 ROD ai-res, of which not quite 100 are in Richmond parifh: there are 650 acres in Mortlnke, 265 in Peterfham, 230 in Putney, and about 1000 in Kingfton. His Majefty, who, fince the death of the laft Range;-, the Earl of Bute, has taken the Park into- his own hands, is now making feveral improvements, which pro mill; to make it one of the moft beautiful parks in the kingdom. RICHiMONDS HOUSE, ahandfome villa, on the banks of the Thames, at Twickenham. In the la ft century, it was the feat of the Earl of Bradford, who had here a fine collection of pictures. He was a diftinguifhed chara&er in the reigns of Charles and James II, and was an active promoter of the Revolution. Since his death it has be- longed to different proprietors, and is now the feat of Mrs. AlJanfon. R1CKMANSWORTH, a market-town in Herts, 18$ miles from London, fituate on the Coin. In the neigh- bourhood is a warren- hill, where the found of the trumpet is repeated twelve times by the echo. In this place is Bury Park, the feat of William 'Field, Efq. RIPLEY, 23* miles from London, in the road to Portfmouth, has a chapel of eafe to the parifh of Send. It is one of the pr*ettieft villages in the county, and was for- merly famous for cricket players. A handfome houie, on the beautiful green>, belongs to the Onflow family. RiYhRHKAD, a village, near Sevenoakt., in Kent, fo called from the Darent having its fource in this parifh It is fituated in the celebrated valley of Holmefdale. which gives the title of Baron Holmcfdale to Lord Amherft. See RODIXG, the name of eight parifhes in the weft of Eflex, diftinguiflied by the appellations of Abbots, Berners, Beauchamp^ Eythorp, High, Leiden, Margaret, and White. They take their name from the river, which flowing thiough them, from Canfield, falls into the Thames, below Barking. Roding Berners is fnppofed to be the birthplace of Juliana Berners, daughter of Sir James Berners, of that parifh, who was bch-ad^d in the reign of Richard II: This lady, who- was Priorefs of Sopewell Nunnery, was one of the carliett female writers in England. She was beauti- ful, ox great fp-irit, aud fon4 ol hawking, huuting, &c. In thefe ROEHAMPTON. 227 thefe fports fhe was fo thoroughly fki!led, that fhe wrote treatifes of hunting, hawking, and heraldry. " From an abbefs difpofed to turn author," fays Mr. Wanton, " we might reafonably have expelled a manual of meditations for the rlofet, or felecl rules for making falves, or diftilling ftrong waters. But the diverfions of the field were not thought inconfiftent with the character of a religious ladv of this eminent rank, who refembled an abbot in refpeft of exercifing an extenfive manerial jurifdicUon, and who hawked and hunted with other ladies of diltinction. ROEHAMPTON, a hamlet to Putney, at the weft ex- tremity of Putney Heath. Here are many handfome villas; among which are Mount Clare, Sir John Dick's; and the houfes belonging to the Earl of Uefborough, Lady "Robert Bertie, Richard G. Temple, Efq. John Thompfon, Efq. and Colonel Fullarton, the latter in Roehampton Lane; befide Clarence Lodge, a villa, built for his own rcftd-nce, by the Duke of Clarence, but lately offered to fale; and Herbert Lodge, the villa of James Daniel, Efq. fituate in Futirey Park Lane. Mount Clare was built, in the Italian ftyle, by the late George Cliye, Efq. Sir Wil- liam Chambers was the architect of the Earl of Befbo- rough's. In this houfe are fome valuable antiques; p?r- tirularly, the celebrated trunk of a Venus, from the collec- tion of Baron Stofch ; and there is a buft of Demofthenes, by Benvenuto Cellini; with fome good pictures, among which are, the Interment of a Cardinal, by John ab Eyck, the firft painter in oil colours; Sir Theodore May erne, Phyfician to James I, by R-ubens; and Bp. Gardiner, by Holbein. In this hamlet is a neat chapel, over the altar of which is the Laft Supper, by Zucchero. Robert 1 hiftle- waite, Efq. had a villa here, which was burnt down in 1 794, and is not rebuilt. See Roehamptcn Grw: and Rot- bampton Houfe. ROEHMMPTON GROVE, lately the feat of Thomas Fitzherbert, Efq. but now of William Gofling, Efq. is fituated on part of the ancient royal park of Putney, which no longer exifts. The fee fimple of this park was granted, by Charles I, to Sir Richard Wefton, afterward Earl of Portland, whofe fon alienated both the houfe and park. They were afterward "the refkience of Chriftian Counttfs 223 RUM Countefsof Devonflure*, whofc family fold this efhte, in 1689; after which it c:;me into the hands of different pro- prietors, till it was purchaffd by Sir Jofluia Vanneck, who puilfd down the old manfion ; built the prefent elegant villa, after a defign of Wyatt's; and expended great films in improvements, particularly in forming a fine piece of water, which is fupplitd b, pipes from a conduit on Put- ney Common. Sir Joftiua, on the acquifition of his bro- ther's eitate, fold Roehampton Grove to Mr. Fitzherbert, .who likewife expended great fums in improvements. The principal front commands a view of Epfom Downs in the diftance: but Richmond Park approaches fo near, that it feems to belong to the grounds, and gives an air of fylvan wildnefs to the whole. The profpect to the north charms the eye with c.heerfulnefs and variety. At the termination of the lawn, is the beautiful piece of water before-men- tioned. Beyond this, the Thames is feen, at high water, winding through a well wooded valley, from which a rich difplay of cultivated country, adorned with villages and feats, 'rifes to Harrow and the adjacent elevated parts of Middlefex. ROEHAMPTON HOUSE, the feat of William Drake, Efq. at Roehampton, was built in the year 1710. The ceiling of the faloon, which was painted by Thornhill, re- preients the Feafls of the Gods. RUMFORD, a town in Eflex, i if miles from London, in the road to Harwich, is governed by a bailiff and war- dens, who, by patent, were once empowered to hold a weekly court for the trial of treafons, felonies, debts, &c. * She was a -woman of great celebrity, and of a very fingular cha- rafter. She was much extolk-J for her devotion; and yet (he retained Hobbes, the freethinker, in her houfe, as tutor to her fon. She kept up the dignity of her rank, and was celebrated for her hofpitality: yet fo judicious was her economy, that her jointure of 5000!. a year /he nearly doubled ; and (he extricated her fon's cfbte from a vaft debt and thirty Ja\v-fuits; fo that King Charles once jeitingly faid to her, " Madim, you have all my Judges at your difpofal." She wai the pationefs of the wits of that age, who frequently ailernbied at her houfe, and there Waller often read his verfcs. She was alive in the reftoraiion of Charles H, who had fuch a fenfe of her fervices, that he frequently vifued her at Roehampton, in company with the Queen Dowager, and the royal family, with whom flie enjoyed a great intimacy till her death in 1675. and RUNNY MEAD. and to execute offenders. It has a market on Monday and Tuefday for hogs and calves, and on Wednefday for corn. It has a chapel of eafe to Hornchurch. RUNNY MEAD, near Egham, in Surry, is celebrated as the fpot where King John, in 1215, was compelled to lign Magna Charta and Charta de Forefta. It is true, that here his confent was extorted; but thefe charters were figned, it is faid, in jan ifland between Runny Mead and Ankerwyke Houfe. This ifland, ftill called Charter Ifland, is in the parifh of Wrayfbury in Bucks. The land a while, Affrighted, droop'd beneath defpotic rage. Inftead of Edward's equal gentle laws, The furious vigor's partial will prevaiPd. All proftrate lay ; and, in the fecret fhade, Deep-ftung, but fearful, Indignation gnafh'd His teeth. Of freedom, property, defpoil'd, And of their bulwark, arms; with caftles crufh'd, With ruffians quarter'd o'er the bridled landj The fhivering wretches, at the curfew found, Dejected ihrunk into their fordid beds, And, through the mournful gloom, of ancient times Mus'd fad, or dreamt of better. Ev'n to feed A tyrant's idle fport the peafant ftarv'd: To the wild herd, the pafture of the tame, - The cheerful hamlet, fpiry town, were given, ' And the brown foreft roughen'd wide around* But this fo vile fubmiflion, long endur'd not. Unus'd to bend, impatient of control, Tyrants themfelves the common tyrant check'd. The church, by kings intractable and fierce, Deny'd her portion'of the plunrler'd (late, Or tempted, by the timorous and weak, To gain new ground, firft taught their rapine law. The barons next a nobler league began, Both thofe of Engliih and of Norman race, I-i one fraternal nation blended now, The nation of the free ! Prefs'd by a band Of patriots, ardent as the fummer's nooa That looks delighted on, the tyrant fee ! Mark ! how with feign'd alacrity he bears His ftrorig reluctance cown, his dark revenge, And gives the Charter, by which life indu..! Becomes of price, a glory to be mail. THOMSON. X In RUNNY MEAD. In King John's time, and that of his fon, Henry HI, the -rigours of the feudal tenures and foreft laws were fo warmly kept up, that they occasioned many infurreftions of the barons or principal feudatories: which at laft had this ef- fect, that firft King John, and afterward his fon, confented to the two famous charters of Englifh liberties, magnet charta and cbarta tlcforsfta. Of thefe the latter was well-calculated to redrefs many grievances, and encroachments of the crown, in the exertion of foreft Jaw : and the former con- firmed many liberties of the church, and redrefled many grievances incident to feudal tenures, of no fmall moment at the time; though now, unlefs considered attentively, and with this retrofped, they feem but of trifling concern. But, hefide thefe feudal provifions, care was taken to pro- tect the fubjeft againft other oppreffions, then frequently arifing from unreafonable amercements, from illegal dif- treffes or other procefs for debts or fervices due to the crown, and from the tyrannical abufe of the prerogative of purveyance and pre-emption. It fixed the forfeiture of lands for felony in the fame manner as it ftill remains; prohibited for the future the grants -of exclufive fiflieries; and the erection of new bridges fo as to opprefs the neigh- bourhood. With refpeft to private r,ights, it eftablifhtd thetefiamentary power of the fubject over part of his per- fonal ettate, the reft being diftributed among his wife and children : it laid down the law of dower, as it hath conti- nued everfince; and prohibited the appeals of women, unlefs for the death of their hulbands. In matters of pub- lic police and national concern, it injoined an uniformity of weights and meafures; gave new encouragements to commerce, by the protection of merchant ftrangers; and forbad the alienation of lands in mortmain. With regard to the adminiftration of juftice, befide prohibiting all denials or delays of it, it fixed the court of common pleas at Weftminfter, that the fuitors might no longer be ha- rafled with following the king's perfon in all his progrefles, and at the fame time brought the trial of iffiies home to the very doors of the freeholders, by directing affixes to be taken in the proper counties, and eftablifhing annual circuits; it alfo corrected fome abufes then incident to the trials by wager RYE 23! wager of law and of battle; directed the regular awarding of inquefts for life or member; prohibited the king's infe- rior minifters from holding pleas of the crown, or trying, any criminal" charge, whereby many forfeitures might otherwife have unjuftly accrued to the exchequer; and regulated the time and place of holding the inferior tribu- nals of jufiice, the county court, fheriff's tourn, and coiirt- leet. It confirmed and eftabliflied the liberties of the city of London, and all other cities, boroughsj towns, arid ports of the kingdom. And, laltly, (which alone would have merited the title it bears, of the great charter) it protected every individual of the nation in the free enjoyment of his life, his liberty, and his property, unlefs declared to be for- feited by the judgment of his peers or the law of the land. Black/loners Comment. On Runny Mead are annual horfe-races, which are at- tended by their Majefties and the royal family. RUSSEL FARM, the handfome feat of the Countefs Dowager of Efiex, in a beautiful firuation neat Watford. RYE-HOUSE, an ancient houfe, in the parifli of Stan- fled Abbot, in the road from Hoddefdon to Ware, was built by Andrew Ogard, in the reign of Henry VI ; that monarch having granted him a licence to build a caftle on his manor of Rye. It came afterward, into the family of the late Paul Field, Efq. Part of the building (which now ferves as a workhoufe to the parifli) has both battlements and loopholes, and was probably the gate of the caftle, which Andrew Ogard had liberty to ereft : and if fo, it is among the earlieft of thofe brick buildings, raifed after the form of bricks was changed, from the ancient flat and broad, to the modern ihape. But what has rendered this place particularly interefting, is its being the fpot faid to have been intended for the aflaflination of Charles II, in 1683. The houfe was then tenanted by Rumbold, who had ferved in the army of Cromwell. Hume, after mentioning, that a regular pro- jecl of an infurre&ion was formed, and that a council of fix confpirators was erefted, confifting of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Ruffe), the Earl of EfTex, Lord Howard, Algernon Sidney, and John Hampden, grnndfon of the great parliamentary leader, thus proceeds: " While tbefe X a fi heme* SAN fchcmes were concerting among the leaders, there was an inferior order of confpirators, who had frequent meetings, and, together with the infurrection, carried on projects quite unknown to Monmouth and the cabal of fix. \Vhtn theie men were together, they indulged thcmfelvts- in the mod delperate and criminal difcourfe: they frequently men- tioned the afiaffination of the king and the duke, to which they had given the familiar appellation of lopping; they even went fo far as to have thought of a fcheme for that purpofe. Rumbold, who was a maltfter, poiTefled a farm, cJ the Rye Houle, which lay on the road to Newmar- '. whither the king commonly went once a year, for the diversion of the races. A plan of this farm had been laid before fomt- of the confpirators by Rumbold, who fhowed jthem how eafy it would be, by overturning a cart, to Hop at that place the king's coach ; while they might fire upon hhi from the hedges, and be enabled afterward, through bye lanes, and crofs the fields, to make their cfcape. But though the plaufibiiity of this fcheme gave great pleafure to tne confpirators, no concerted defign was as yet laid, nor any men, nodes, or arms provided. The whole was little more than loofe difcourfe, the overflowings of zeal and rancour.'' Hume, Vol. xii. chap. 5. When this affair, ho.vever, became afterward the fubjeft of a judicial en- quiry, it received the name of The Rye Houfe Plot; and (Colonel Walcot, and others, were condemned and exe- cuted as parties in it. S. SALTHILL, in Bucks, 2ii miles from London, on the Bath road, is remarkable for its fine fituation and elegant inn. It is alfo famous as being the fpot to which the fcho- lars of Eton make their triennial proceffion; when a public collection is made from the company, for the benefit of the Captain of the School, who is generally elefted a member of King's College, Cambridge. This collection, in fome years, amounts to near loool. SAXDEKSTED, in Surrv, near Croydon, has a de- ligbjiul profpeft on the N. to Crovdon, and on the N. W. to SHE 233 to Harrow on the Hill, fome parts of Bucks, Berks, Hamp- Ihire, and over all Banfted Downs. See Purley. SAUNDRIDGE, a village in Hertford fhi re, three miles N. by E. of St. Albans. Here is the elegant feat of Charles Bouchier, Efq. who has lately made great improvements in the houfe and grounds. SEVENOAKS, a market-town in Kent, near the river Darent, 23} miles from London, in the road to Tu abridge, obtained its name from feven large oaks which grew near it, when it was firft built. Here is an hofpital and fchool, for the maintenance of aged people, and the inftru&ion of youth, firft erefted by Sir William Sevenoaks, Lord Mayor of London, in 1418, who is faid to have been a foundling, educated at the expence of a perfon of this town, whence he took his name. Queen Elizabeth having greatly aug- mented the revenue of this fchool, it was.called Queen Eli- zabeth's Free-School. It was rebuilt in 1727. Near this town, in 1450, the roval army, commanded by Sir Hum- phrey Stafford, was defeated by the rebels headed by John Cade. See Kippingtcn and Knole. SHEEN, EAST, a hamlet to Mortlake, on the Thames. Here are feveral villas; particularly, that of Lord Palmer- fton, a defendant from Sir John Temple, brother of the celebrated Sir William Temple; the feat of Mrs. Bowles, built by the late Charles Bowles, Efq. after a deiign by Mefifrs. Carr and Morris; and the houfesof Philip Francis, Efq. and Mr. Alderman Watfon. SHEEN, WEST, the name of a hamlet to Richmond, which once flood a quarter of a mile to the N. W. of the old Palace of Richmond. Here Henry V, in 1414, founded a convent of Carthufians, in the walls of which Perkin Warbeck fought an afylum. An ancient gateway, the laft remains of this priory, was taken down in 1770. The whole hamlet, confiding of iShoufes, was, at the fame time, annihilated, and the fite, which was made into a Jawn, added to the King's inclofures. Sir William Tem- ple had a ieafe of the fite and premifes of the priory; and Weft Sheen was his favourite refidence till his remov.il to Moor Park, near Farnham. King WiU'urn frequently vifited him at this place. When his patron was 1 ime with, the gout, Swift ufually attended his JVlajefty in his walk X 3 round 234 s i o round the- gardens; and- here he became acquainted with the beautiful and accompliflied Stella, who was born at this place, and whofe father was Sir William's fteward. SHENLEY, a village of Hertford (hire, two miles N. by W. of Chipping Barnet. Here is High Canons, a hand- fome feat, lately purchafed by Thomas Fit'/herbert, Efq. who has made many elegant improvements; particularly two fine pieces of water in the park, which, floping from the houfe, terminate, at fome diftance, in a delightful wood. SHEPPERTON,a village in Middlefex,on the Thames, IQ| miles from London. It is much reforted to by the lovers of angling. Hence is a bridge to Walton. SHOOTER'S HILL, eight miles from London, in the road to Dover, from the fummit of which is a fine view of London, and into Eflex, Surry, and even jpart of Suflex. The Thames alfo exhibits a magnificent appearance. There is a handfome inn and gardens, for the entertain- ment of thofe who vifit this delightful fpot. See Eltbam. SHORNE, a village, three miles and a half S. E. of Grnvefend, containing a romantic variety of landfcape. The hills are wide, fteep, and almoft covered with wood ; rifing into bold variations, between the breaks of which vaft profpefts of the valley beneath, and the Thames wind- ing through it, are feen, and from the tops of fome of them very extenfive profpecls of the country at large. SION HILL, in the parifh of Ifleworth, the elegant villa of the Duke of Marlborough. The grounds, which were planted by Bro\vn, fall with a gentle defcent from the houfe to the great road to Hounflow. SION HILL, near the laft mentioned, the feat of John, Robinfon, Efq. a neat villa, with extenfive offices, plea- fantly fituate in a fmall paddock. This eftate is a manor, called Wyke : it aociently belonged to the convent of Sion; and, among its various proprietors fince the diffolution, we find the name of Sir Thomas Grefham. blON. HOUSE, in the parifh of Ifleworth, a feat of the Duke of Northumberland's, on the Thames, oppofite Richmond Gardens, is called Sion, from a nunnery of Bridgetines, of the fame 'name, originally founded at Twickenham, by Henry V, in 1414, and removed to this fpot in 1432. After SION HOUSE. 235 After the diflblution of this convent in 1532, it contir nued in the crown, during the remainder of our eighth Henry "b reign. His unfortunate Queen, Catharine How- ard, was confined here, from Nov. 14, 1541, to Feb. 10, i 54z, being three days before her execution. Edward VI granted it to his uncle the Duke of Somerfet, who, in 1547, began to build this magnificent ftrufture, and finifhed the fhell of it nearly as it now remains. The houfe is a ma- jeftic edifice, of white ftone : the roof is flat, and embat- tled. Upon each of the four outward angles, is a fquare turret, flat- roofed and embattled. The gardens were in- clofed by high walls before the eaft and weft fronts, and were laid out in a very grand manner; but being made at a time when extenfive views were deemed inconfiftent with the ftately privacy affefted by the great, they were fo fitu- ated as to deprive the houfe of all profpeft. To remedy that inconvenience, the Protector built a high triangular terrace in the angle between the walls of the two gardens ; and this it was that his enemies afterward did not fcruple to call a fortification, and to infinuate that it was one proof, among others, of his having formed a defign dangerous to the liberties of the king and people. After hiS execution, in 1552, Sion was forfeited; and the houfe, which was given to John Duke of Northumberland, then became the refidence of his fon, Lord Guilford Dudley, and of his daughter-in-law, the unfortunate Lady Jane Grey, who was at this place, when the Dukes of Northumberland and Suffolk, and her hulband, came to prevail upon her to ac- cept the fatal prefent of the crown; and hence (lie was conducted, as then ufual on the acceffion of the fovereign, to refide for fome time in the Tower. The Duke being beheaded in 1553, Sion Houfe reverted to the Crown. Queen Mary reftored it to the Bridgetines, who poflefied it till they were expelled by Elizabeth. In 1604, Sion Houfe was granted to Henry Percy ninth Earl of Northumberland, in confideration of his eminent fer- vices. His fon Algernon employed Inigo Jones to new- face the inner court, and to finifli the great hall in the manner in which it now appears. The Dukes of York and Gloucefter, and the Princefs Elizabeth, were fent here by an order of the Parliament, in 236 in 1646, and were treated by the Earl and Cotintefs of Northumberland in all refpeftsfuitable to their birth. The King frequently vifited them at Sion in 1647. The Duke of Gloucefter and the Princefs Elizabeth, continued at Sion till 1649, at which time the Earl refigned them to the care of his filter the Countefs of Leicefter. In 1682, Charles Duke of Somerfet, having married the only child of Jofceline Earl of Northumberland, Sion Houfe became his property. He lent this houfe to the Princefs Anne, who reficled here during the mifunderftanding be- tween her and Queen Mary. Upon the Duke's death, in 1748, his fon Algernon gave Sion Houfe to Sir Hugh and Lady Elizabeth Smithfon, his fon-in-law and daughter, af- terward Duke and Duchefs of Northumberland, who made the fine improvements. The moft beautiful frenery imaginable is formed before two of the principal fronts; for even the Thames itfelf feems to belong to the gardens, which are feparated into two parts by a new ferpentine river, which communicates with the Thames. Two bridges form a communication between the two gardens, and there is a ftately Doric co- lumn, on the top of which is a finely-proportioned ftatue of Flora. The greenhoufe has a Gothic front, in fo light a ftyle. ns to be greatlv admired. The back and end walls of it are the only remains of the old monaftery. Thefe beautiful gardens are ftored with a great many curious exotics, and were principally laid out by Brown. The en:i ance to the manfion, from the great road, is through a beautiful gateway, adorned on each fide with an open colonnade, The vifitor afcencls the houfe, by a flight of fteps which leads into The Great Hall, a noble oblong room, 66 feet by 31, and 34 in height. It is paved with white and black marble, and is ornamented with antique marble coloflal ftatues, and particularly with a cafr of the dying glaciiator in bronze, by Valadier. Adjoining to the Hall, is a magnificent Vejlilule, in a very uncommon ftyle; the floor of fcagliola, and the walls in fine relief, with gilttrr phics, &c. It is adorned with 12 large Ionic columns and 16 pilafters of verJe antique, pur- chafed at an immenfe expenfe, bein<; a greater quantity of this fcarce marble, than is now perhaps to be found in any one SIGN HOUSE. 237 one building in the World : on the columns are iz gilt fta- tues. This leads to The Dining Room, which is ornamented with marble ftatues, and paintings in chiaro ofcuro, after the antique. At each end is a circular recefs feparated by columns, and the ceiling is in ftuccogilt. The Drawing Room has a coved ceiling, divided into fmall compartments richly gilt, and exhibiting defigns of * all the antique paintings that have been found in Europe, executed by the beft Italian artifts. The fides are hung with a rich three-coloured filk damaik, the firft of the kind ever executed in England. The tables are two noble pieces of antique mofaic, found in the Baths of Titus, and purchafed from Abbate Furietti's collection at Rome. The glafles are 108 inches by 65, being two of the largeft ever feen in England. The chimneypiece is of the fineft ftatuary'mar- ble, inlaid and ornamented with or moulii. The Great Gallery, which alfo ferves for the library and mufeum, is 13 3! feet by 14. The bookcafes are formed in recefies in the wall, and receive the books fo as to make them part of the general finifhing of the room. The chimneypieces are adorned with medallions, &c. The whole is after the moft beautiful ftyle of the antique, ^nd gave the firft inftance of ftuccp-work finifhed in England, after the fineft remains of antiquity. Below the ceiling, which is richly adorned with paintings and ornaments, runs a feries of large medallion paintings, exhibiting the portraits of all the Earls of Northumberland in fucceffion, and other principal perfons of the houfes of Percy and Sey- mour ; all taken from originals. At the end of this room is a pair of folding doors into the garden, which unifor- mity required fhould reprefent a bookcafe, to anfwer the other end of the library. Here, by a happy thought, are exhibited the titles of the loft Greek and Roman authors, fo as to form a pleafing deception, and to give, at the fame time, a curious catalogue of the autbores Jcperttiti. At each end, is a little pavilion, finifhed in the moft exquifite tafte ; as is alfo a beautiful clofet in one of the fquare tur- rets rifing above the roof, which commands an enchanting profpec~t. From the eaft end of the gallery are a fuite of private apartments, that are very convenient and elegant, and lead 238 SLOUGH. lead us back to the great hall by which we entered. All thefe improvements were begun in 1 762, by the late Duke, under the direction of Robert Adam, Efq. SLOUGH, a village, 20! miles from London, and two from Windfor. Part of it is in theparifh of Stoke, the other in that of Upton. Here the celebrated Dr. Herfchd pur- fues his aftronomical refearches, afiifted by a royal pen- fion. His forty-feet telefcope is a prodigous inftrument. The length of the tube is 39 feet 4 inches: it meafures 4 feet 10 inches in diameter; and every part of it is of rolled or fheet iron, which has been joined together, without rivets, by a kind of Teaming, well known to thofe who make iron funnels for ftoves. The concave face of the great mirror '1548 inches of polifhed furface in diameter. The thicknefs, which is equal in every part of it, is about three inches and a half; and its weight when it came from the caft, was 2118 pounds, of which it muft have loft a fmall part in polifhing. The method of obferving by this telefcope is by what Dr. Herfchel calls the front view ; the obferver being placed in a feat, fufpended at the end of it, with his back toward the objecl he views. There is no fmall fpeculum, but the magnifiers are applied immediately to the firft focal image. From the opening of the telefcope, near the place of the eyeglafs, a fpeaking-pipe runs down to' the bottom of the tube, where it goes into a turning joint; and, after feveral other inflexions, it at length di- vides into two branches, one going into the obfei vatory, and the other into the workroom ; and thus the communi- cations of the obferver are conveyed to the affiftant in the obfervatory, and the workman is directed to perform the required motions. The foundation of the apparatus by which the telefcope is fufpended .and moved, confifts of two concentric circular brick walls, the outermoft of which is 22 feet in diameter, and the infide one 21 feet. They are two feet fix inches deep under ground, two feet three inches broad at the bottom, and one foot two inches at the top ; and are capped with paving fiones about three inches thick, and twelve and three quarters broad. The bottom frame of the whole refts upon thefe two walls by 20 concentric rollers, and is moveable upon a pivot, which gives a hori- zontal motion to the whale apparatus, as well as to the tele- fcope. sou 239 fcope. The def:ription of the apparatus and telefcope oc- cupies 63 pages in the fecond part of the Philofophical Tran factions tor 179$, and the parts of it are illuftrared by 19 plates. A good idea of the whole may be formed from a perfpeclive view of it (as it now (lands in the Doc- tor's garden) in the Univerfal Magazine for Feb. 1796. SO1 J EWELL,- near St. Alban's, was a nunnery, founded in 1 142. In this houfe, Henry VIII was privately married to Anne Boleyn, by Dr. Rowland Lee, afterward Bifliop of Lichfield and Coventry. SOPHIA FARM. See St. Leonard's Hill. SOUTHFLEET, a village in Kent, contiguous to Northfleet. The Bifhops of Rochefter were pouefled of the manor before the Conqueft, and, as not unufual in an- cient times, the court of Southfleet had a power of trying and executing felons. This jurifdiftion extended not only to afts of felony done within the villa, but alfo over crimi- nals apprehended there, though the facl had been commit- ted in another county. SOUTHGATE, a hamlet to the parifli of Edmonton, fituate on the fkirts of Enfield Chafe, eight miles from Lon- don. Among many handfome houfes here, are Minchen- don Houfe, the feat of the Duchefs of Chandos; Cannon Grove, of Mr. Alderman Curtis ; and Arnold's Grove, ef Ifaac Walker, Efq. SOUTH LODGE, an elegant villa on Enfield Chafe, was a feat of the firft Earl of Chatham (when a commoner) to whom it was left by will, with io,oool. On this be- queft, he obferved, that he fhould fpend that Aim in im- provements, and then grow tired of the place in three or four years : nor was he miftaken.v Yet here, for fome time, this illuftrious ftatefman occafionally enjoyed the fweets of rural retirement, and even indulged in fome poetic e"ffu- fions. In Mr. Seward's Anecdotes of fome Diftinguiftied Perfons, Vol. Ill, is A lone epiftle from him to Richard Vifcount Cobham, from which the following is an extract. It is an imitation of Horace, Book I, Ode 29, and is en- titled " An Invitation to South Lodge." From Norman princes iprung, their virtues' heir,' Cobham, for theemy vaults inclofe Tokai's fmooth calk unpicrc'd. Here purer air, Breathing fweet pink and balmy rofe, Shall 240 S T A Shall meet thy vrifh'd approach. Haftc theft away, Nor round and round for ever rove The magic Ranelagh, or nightly ftray In gay Spring Gardens * glittering grove. Forfake the town's huge mafs, ftretch'd long and wide. I'all'd with Profufion's fick'ning joys j Spurn the vain capital's inlipid pride, Smoke, riches, politics, and nolle. Change points the blunted fenfe of fumptuous pleafure ; And ncut repafts in fylvan fhed, Where Nature's fimple boon is all the treafure, Care's brow with fmiles have often fpread. When he parted with South Lodge, the fucceeding pro- prietor greatly neglefted it; but Mr. Alderman Skinner, who afterward purchafed it, reftored this delightful fpot to its former beauty. The plantations, which are well wood- ed, are laid out with great tafte, and are adorned with two fine pieces of water ; the views acrofs which, from diffe- rent parts of the grounds, into Epping Foreft, are rich and extenfive. It was lately purchafed by Mr. Gundry. SOUTHWEALD, a village near Brentwood, where is the handfome houfe of Chriftopher Tower, Efq. in whofe park is a lofty building, upon an elevated point, that commands an extenfive profpecl. SPENCER GROVE, the beautiful villa of Mifs Ho- tham, delightfully fituate on the Thames, at Twickenham. It was fitted up with great elegance by Lady Diana Beau- clerk, who decorated feveral of the rooms herfelf, with her own paintings of flowers. It was afterward the refidence of the late Lady Bridget Tollemache. SPRING GROVE, at Smallberry Green, near Houn- flow, the neat villa of Sir Jofeph Banks, Bart. STAINES, a market-town in Middlefex, i6| miles from London. An elegant ftone bridge has been built here v from.a defign by Thomas Sandby, Efq. R. A. It confifts of three elliptic arches ; that in the centre 60 feet wide ; the others 52 feet each. One or two of the piers hav- ing funk, the opening of this bridge is retarded for fome time. At fome diftance, above this bridge, at Coin Ditch, * Formerly the name of Vauxhall Gardens. ftands STANMORE. 241 fhnds London Mark Stone, the ancient boundary to the jurifdiclion of the city of London on the Thames. On a moulding round the upper part, is infcribed "God pre- ferve the city of London. A. D. 1280." STANMORE, GREAT, a village in Middlefex, ten miles from London, in the road to Watford. Here is the feat of James Forbes, Efq. built by the firft Duke of Chan- dos, for the residence of his Duchefs, in cafe fhe had fur- vived him. Mr. Forbes enlarged it, and has greatly im- proved the gardens, in which he has creeled a fmall octagon, temple, containing various groups of figures, in Oriental fculpture, prefented to him by the Brahmins of Hindooftan, ss a grateful acknowledgment of his benevolent attention to their happinefs, during a long refidence among them. They are very ancient, and the oniy fpecimens of fhe Hin- doo fculpture in this ifland. In the gardens is alfo an ele- gant ftructure, containing a cenotaph, infcribed to the me- mory of a deceafed friend ; and here is a ruftic bridge, part of which is compofed of a few fragments of a large Roman watch-tower, which once Mood upon the hill:, The villa of George Heming, Efq. in this place, was originally a pavilion, confifting only of a nobie banquer- ing-room, with proper culinary offices, and was built by the firft Duke of Chandos, for the reception offuchofhis friends as were fond of bowling ; a fpadous green having been likewife formed for that amtifement. See Belmont and B entity Priory. The church, rebuilt on the prefent more convenient fpot, - in 1632, is a brick ftruclure ; and the tower is covered by a remarkably large and beautiful ftem of ivy. The fi: na- tion of the old church is marked by "a flat tomb-ftone, which has been lately planted round with iirs. The inhabitants had been Joag accuitomed to ittch all their water from a large refcrvoir on the top of the hill : but a well was dug in the village, in 1 79 1, and water was found at the depth ot i ;o feet. Upon this hill is' Stanmore Common, which u fo very elevated, that the {ground-floor of one of the houlls upon it is faid to be on. a level with the battlements of the tower of Harrow church ; andlbme high treei on the Com- mon are a landmark from rheCierma:) Ocean. \\MORE. LITTLE. AVc ftlii,-!.-. Y STANSTED 242 S T E STAXSTED ABBOTS, a village of Hertfordshire, once 4 flourifliing borough, above two miles foutheaft of Ware, near the river Stort. Stanfted Bury, in this parifh, is the feat of Mr. Porter. 8TANWELL, a village in Middlefex, two miles from Staines. In this parifli is Stanwell Place, the feat of Sir William Gibbons, Bart. It is a flat fituation, but com- znands plenty of wood and water. STEPNEY, a village near London, whofe parifli was of fuch extent, and fo increased in buildings, as to produce the par! (lies of St. Mary Stratford at Bow, St. Mary White- chapel, St. Anne Limehoufe, St. John Wapping, St. Paul Shad well, St. George in the Eaft, Chrift Church Spital- iields, and St. Matthew Bethnal Green ; and it contains the hamlets of Mile-End Old Town, Mile-End New Town, Ratdiff, and Poplar. On the eafl fide of the portico of the church, leading up to the gallery, is a ftoae, with this infcription ; O/ Carthage grcst I was a (tone, O mortals, read with pity ! Time c .nfumcs all, it fp.ireth none, Men, mountains, towns, nrir city : Therefore, O mortals J all be'.hu;k You wheieunto you muft, Since now fuch (lately buildings Lie turied in the duft. Tlie hamlet of RsLtcliff, which lies in the weftern divi- lion of this parifh, contained 1 150 houfes, of which 455, with 36 warehoufes, were 'deftroyed by a dreadful fire, on tl-e 2 ^d of July 1794. Tents were fixed in a walled field belonging to the Quakers, for the immediate accommoda- tion of die poor inhabitants ; and aftive fubfcriptions were let on foot for their more effectual relief. At the gate of the camp, and at the different avenues to the ruins, dona- tions were received to the amount of 470!. nearly in half- pence only : including thefe, the whole amount of the lubfcriptioiis was nearly 17,000!.; and fuch was the libe- rality '-or the public, that the hand of charity was flopped Jong before it -would have ceafed to contribute, by 'an inti- mation from the managers, that this fum was fully ade- quate to the relief of the poor fufferers. STOCKWELL. s T a 243 STOCKWELL, a village in Surry, in the par; Hi of Lambeth. Here is a neat chapel of eafe, to which Abp, Seeker contributed 500!. Qn the fite of the ancient manor- hoiife, a hindfome villa has been erected by Bryant Barrett, Efq. one of the proprietors of Vauxhall Gardens Part oi : the sncitnt offices are ftill (landing; Ivat Mr. Lyfonsfays, that t'-e Mau'ition of its having been the property of Tho- mas Cromwell, Earl of Eflex, is without foundation, as, ire his tM'-e, it belonged to Sir John Leigh, the younger. S. . ( ki, a village in Bucks, 21 miles from London, calleu 3\"o Stoke Poges, from its ancient lords, named Poges. Edvvaid Lord Longhborough founded here an hofpita), with a :hapel in whirh he himfelt : was interred. Henry third Ear! of Huntingdon isfuppofsd to have erected the ir-r r on in Stoke Park, air.torv ; in which the fty'e of building in. Elizabeth's rugn is admi- rably defcribcd, and the fantaftic manners of her time da~ iiueated with equal truth and humour: In Britn'n's ifle, no matter where, An ancient pile of building ftands : The Huntingdon* and Hmons there Employ'd the pow'r of fairy hands, To raife the ceiling's fretted height, Each panncl in achievements clothing,. Rich windows that exclude the light, And pa&gcs that lead to nothing. Y * Full -44 s T R Full oft within the fpacious walls, When he had fifty winters o'er him, My gi.-ne lord keeper* led the brawls j-f- The feaJ and maces danc'd before him. His I'Uihy beard and ihoe-frrings green, His l.igh-crowr.'a hat, and fatin doublet, Mcv'd rhe llout heart of England's queef, Though Pope and Sjraniaid could not tiouble it. The churchyard mufl ever be interesting, as the fcene of our poet's celebrated elegy ; and, at the eaft end of it, he is interred ; bat without even a fione to record his exit, " And teach the ruftic moralift to die." In this parifn is the handfome feat of Field-Mnrflial Sir George Howard, K. B. and, at the weft end of the village, the neat refidence of the Rev. Dr. Browning. STOKE D'ABERNON, a village feated on the river Mole, near Cobham. Here is a fpacious manfion, the property of Sir Francis Vincent, a minor, and refidence of Admiral Sir Richard Hughes, Bart. lathis parifh is a mi- neral fpring. Sre Jefip's WtlL STRATFORD,' 3* miles from London, the firft village in Efiex, on croiling the Lea, at Bow Bridge, is in the pa- rifh of Weft Ham. At Maryland Point, in this hamlet, is Stratford Houfe, where Sir John Henniker, Bart, has ex- tenfiye gardens, though the houfe itfelf makes no figure. STRATFORD BOW. See BOW. STRAWBERRY HILL, near Twickenham, the villa * Sir Chriftopher Hatton, whole graceful perfon and fine dancing were his beft qualifications, and the means of promoting him to be Lord Chan- cellor. Being in that high Ration, he became arrogint. The Queen thereupon told him, " that he was too much exalted by the indulgence of " his fortune, which had placed him in a ilation for vhich he wjs unfit,. " he being ignorant of the chancery law, and needing the aiiiftance of "others to enable him to do h'.s duty." This reproich ftruck him to the heart, a-nd he refolved to admit no confutation. When he was almofl half dead, the Qticen repented of her feverity, and went herfclf to com- fort the dying Chancellor \ but it was all to no purpoff, for he was ob- iSnately refolved to die. Jjoku'i's Cbaratf. he tower of the church, which he had erefted at his own expence. THAMES, the fineft river in Great Britain, which takes its rife from a copious fpring, called Thames Head", two miles S.W. of Cirencefter. It has been faid, that its same is I/fs, till it arrives at Dorchefter, 15 miles below Oxford, when, being joined by the Thome, or Tame, it af- fumes the name of the Thames, which, if has been obferv- ed, is formed from a combination of the words Thame and ///j. What was the origin of this vulgar error, cannot now be traced. Poetical fiction, however, has perpetuated this error, and inverted it with a kind of claffical fanftity. " It plainly appears," fays Camdrn, " that the river was always called Tvanes or Terns, before it came near the Thame ; and in feveral ancient charters granted to the abbey of Malmfbury, as well as to that of Enefham, and, in the old -deeds relating to Cricklade, it is never confidered under any other name than that of Thames." He likewife fays, that it occurs no where under the name of I (is. All the hiftorians, who mention the incurfions of Ethelwold into Wiltfhire, in 905, or of Canute, in 1016, concur like- wife in the fame opinion, by declaring, "-that they parted over the Thames at Cricklade in Wiltfliire." It is not probable, moreover, that " Thames Head," an appellation by which the fource has ufually been diftinguiflied, fhould give rife to a river of the name of liis; which river, after having run half its courfe, fhould reaffume the name of Thames, the appellation of its parent fpring. " Under the name of Thames," fays Dr. Aikin, " is included its prin- cip.-.l branch, the Ifis; for, in faft, the beft writers afierr, that His is a mere poetical name, not known by the inha- bitants of its bauks, who uniformly call the principal river the THAMES. 255 the Thames, ^uite up to its head. Ifis is the ancient name Oztfe, common to fo many rivers, latinized. The Tame, commonly fuppofed to give name to the Thames, is an in- confiderable rivulet, which, flowing by the town of Tame, bends round to meet the imaginary IGs above Walling- ford." About a mile below the fource of the river, is the firft corn-mill, which is called Kemble Mill. Here the river may properly be faid to form a conftant current; which, though not more than nine feet wide in fummer, yet, in winter, becomes fuch a torrent, as to' overflow the meadows for many miles around. But, in fummer, the Thames Head is fo dry, as to appear nothing but a large dell, interfperfed with ftones and Weeds. From Somerford the ftream winds to Cricklade, where it unites with many other rivulets. Approaching Kemsford, it again enters its native county, dividing it from Berkfhire at Inglefliam. It widens confiderably in its way to Lechlade; and, being there joined by the Lech and Coin, at the ciiftance of i 38 miles from London, it becomes navigable for vefiels of <.o tons. At Enfham, in its courfe N. E. to Oxford, k firft bridge of ftorte ; a handfome one, of thrt-e arches, built by the Earl of Abingdon. Pa fling by tLe ruin- f Godftow Nunnery, the river reaches Oxfo:d, in whole ~.\i\- demic groves, its poetical name of Ifis has been fo often in- voked. Being there joined by the Charwel!, it proceeds S. E. to Abingdon, and thence to Dorchefter, where it re- ceives the Thame. Continuing its courfe S. E. by V/al- lingford "to Reading, and forming a boundary to the coun- ties of Berks, Bucks, Surry.'Middlefex, Eflex, and Kent, it wafh.es the towns of Henley, Marlow, Maidenhead, Wind- for, Eton, Egham, Staines, Laleham, Chertfey, Vv'eybridge, Shepperton, Walton, Sunbury, Eaft and Weft Moulfev, Hampton, Thames Ditton, Kingfton, Teddington, Twick- enham, Richmond, Ifleworth, Brentford, Kew, Mortlake, Barnes, Chifwick, Hammerfmith, Fulhain, Putney, Wandf- worth, Batterfea, Chelfea, ond Lam'octh t Then, on the north bank of the river, are Weftminiler and London, and, on the oppofite fide, Southwark ; forming fogether one continued Hty, extending to Lime4]oufe and Deptford; and hence the river proceeds to Greenwich, Eritli, (jreen- hithe, Gray's Thurrock, Gravefend, and Ltigh, into the Z 2 ocean. 256 THAMES. orean. It receives in its courfe from Dorchefter, the rivers Kennet, Loddon, Coin, Wey, Mole, Wandle, Lea, Roding, and Parent. It is irnpoflible to defcribe the beauties which the banks of this noble river difplay from Windfor to London; the numerous villages, on each fide, being adorned with mag- nificent feats, elegant villas, extenfive pleafure-grounds, and beautiful gardens. Nor can any thing be more pleafingly picturefque than the great number of barges and boats, both for pleafure and burden, which are continually paffing and repaffing, above Weftminfler Bridge, " And where the filver dream firft rural grows." And, below London Bridge, what an idea muft a fo- jfeigner conceive of the commerce and opulence of the Me- tropolis, when he beholds the innumerable mnfts, which ex- tend, like a foreft, to Deptford and Limehoufe ! No won- der, then, that this fine river fliould be a favourite theme with ibme of our moiUliilinguifiied poets. O couU I flow like thre, and make thy ftream J.Jy gnat example, as it is my theme! STho' de:p, yetclw j tho' gentle, yet not dullj iv-ong vUhottv r .ge, without o'erflowing f'ulJ. DCNKAM, Thou, too, great Father of the Briti-li floods, Y/itii joyful pride furvey'i} cur lofty woods ; Where toweiing oaks their {rowing honours rear, And future navies on thy ft (ires appear. Not Neptune's felf from all (tie ftrearns receives A wealthier tribute than t clear. POPK. The Lord Mayor's jurifdi&ion over the Thames extends from Coin Ditch, a little to the weft of Staines, to Yendal or Yenleet, to the eaft, including part of the rivers Medway and Lea; and he has a deputy, named the Water Bailitf, who is to fcarch for, and puiiifli, all offenders againft the Jaws for the prefervation of the river and its fifh. Eight times a year the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, hold courts of confeVvancy for the four counties of Surry, Middlefex, Effex, and Kent. THAMES. 257 Though the Thames is faid to be navigable 138 miles above bridge, yet there are fo many .flats, that, in fumaier, the navigation weft ward would be entirely flopped, wfceu the fprings are low, were it not for a number of locks. But thefe are .attended with considerable expence ; for a barge from Lechlade to London pays for paffing through, them, 13!. 155, 6d. and from Oxford to London 12!. i8s. This charge, however, is in fmnmer only, when the water is low; and there is no lock from London Bridge to Bol- ter's Lock; that is, for 51^ miles above bridge. The plan of new cuts has been adopted in fome places, to fliorten and facilitate the navigation. There is one near Lechlade, which runs nearly parallel to the old river, and contiguous to St. John's Bridge; and there is another, a mile from Abingdon, which has rendered the old Cream, toward Culliam Bridge, ufelefs. Some of our poets have been fond to 'imagine (what perhaps they confidered as merely imaginary) a junction between the Thames and the Severn. Pope fuggefted the idea in a letter to Mr. Digby, dated iu 1722. And thus the Pott of the Fkece : Trent an.! Severn's wave By plains alone difpartcd, woo to join M^jeftic Thamis. With rheir diver urns The nimble-footed Nui'ads of the fprings Await, upan the ocwy lawn, to fpecd And celebrated the union. DYER. This poetical vihon has been realized. A canal has been made, by virtue of an act of parliament, in 1730, from the Severn to Wall Bridge, near Stroud. A new canal afcends by Stroud, through the vale of Chalfor.d, to the height of 343 feet, by means of 28 locks, and thence to the entrance of a tunnel near Sapperton, a diftahce of near eight miles. This canal is 4.1. feet in width at top, and 30 at the bottom. The tunnel (which is extended under Sapperton Hill, and under that part of Karl Bathurft's grounds, called Haley Wood, making a diftance of two miles and three furlongs) is near 15 feet in width, and can navigate barges of 70 tons. The ouial, descending hence 1 34 feet, by 14 Jocks, joins the Thames at Lechlade, a uif- tance of 2O miles. Z 3 In 258 THE In the courfe of this vaft undertaking, the canal, from the Severn at Froomlade, to Inglefham, where it joins the Thames, is a diftance of more than 30 miles. The ex- pence of it exceeded the fum of 200,000). of which 3000!. is faid to have been expended in gunpowder alone, ufed for the blowing up of the rock. This work v\ as completed in 1789, in lefs than feven years from its commencement. A communication, not only with the Trent, but with the Merfey, has likewife been effected, by a canal from Oxford^ to Coventry; and a confiderable progrefs is made in' another canal from this, at Braunfton, to the Thames at Brentford. This is called the Grand Junction Canal. On the extenfive advantages refulting from thefe navigablar communications from the Metropolis with the ports of Briftol, Liverpool, Hull, &c.' and the principal manufac- turing towns in the inland parts of the kingdom, it is need- Jefs to expatiate. The tide flows up the Thames as high as Richmond, which, following the winding of the river, is 70 miles from the ocean; a greater diftance than the tide is carried by any other river in Europe. The water is efteemed extremely wholefome, and fit for ufe in very long voyages, during which it will work itfelf perfectly fine. THAMES DITTON, a village in Surry,. between Kingfton and Eflier. Here are Boyle Farm, the villa of Lord Henry Fitzgerald, and the feats of Richard Jofeph Sul- livan, Efq. and Sir Francis Ford, Bart. To the latt gen- tleman, as proprietor of Ember Court, belongs an atms- houfe here for fix poor people, S*e Ember Court. THEOBALDS, a village on the New River, in the pa- rifh of Chefhunt, Herts. Here the great Lord Burldgh built a feat, and adorned it with magnificent gardens, in which he feems to have anticipated all the abfurdities that are commonly afcribed to a tafte, fuppofed to have been long after imported from Holland. " The garden," fays Hentzner, " is encompafled by a ditch filled with water, and large enough to have the pleafure of rowing in a boat between the ftirubs : it was adorned with a great variety of trees and plants, labyrinths made with much labour, a jet d'eau with its bafon of white marble, and with columns and pyramids." O how THEOBALDS. 259 O how unlike the fcene my fancy forms, Did Folly, heretofore, with Wealth confpire, To plan that formal, dull, disjointed fcene> Which once -was call'd a garden. Britain ftill Bears on her breaft full many a hideous wound Given by the cruel pair, when, borrowing aid From geometric (kill, they vainly ftrovc By line, by plummet, and unfeeling fheers, To form with verdure what the builder form'd Withftone. Egregious madnefs ! yet purfu'd With pains unwearied, with expence unfumm'd, And fcience doating. Hence the fidelong walks Of fliaven yew ; the holly's prickly arms Trimm'd into high arcades ; the tcmfile box Wove, in mofaic mode of many a curl, Around the figur'd carpet of the lawn. ' Hence too deformities of harder cure : The terrace mound uplifted; the long line Deep-delv'ci of flat canal ; and all that Toil, Mifled by taftelef* Falhion, could atchieve To mar fair Nature's lineaments divine. MASON. But let it be remembered, to the honour of Lord Bur- leigh; that Botany, then in an infant flate, was much in- debted to him. He patronized that celebrated botanift John Gerard ; and his garden contained the bell collection of plants of any nobleman in the kingdom. Queen Elizabeth was entertained in this houfe no left than twelve times; and each time it coft Burleigh 2000!. or 3000!. her majefty being there fometimes three weeks, a month, or even fix weeks together. He gave this feat to his younger fon, Sir Robert Cecil, (afterward Earl of Salif- bury ) in whofe time James I, (laying there for one night, in his way to takf pofteffion of the crown, was fo delighted with the place, that he gave him the manor of Hatfield in exchange for Theobalds, and afterward enlarged the park, and encompafled it with a wall ten miles round. This pa- lace he often vifited, in order to enjoy the pleafure of hunt- ing in Enfield Chafe and Epping Foreft; and here he died. In the civil war, it was plundered and defaced ; it being the place whence Charles I fet out to erecl his flandard at Not- tingham. Charles II granted the manor to George Monk, Duke of Albemarle; but it reverting to the Crown, for want of heirs male, King William gave it to William Earl of 2&O T H O of Portland, from whom it defcended to the prefent Duke, who fold it to George Prefcott, Efq. The park has been converted into farms. The fmall remains of Theobalds, (fuch as the room where King James died) were demo- lifhed, in 1765, by Mr. Prefcott, who leafed out the fite of it to a builder, and erected a handfome houfe for himfelf, about a mile to the fouth of it. It is now the feat of Sir George William Prefcott, Bart. THEYDON BOIS, a village in Eflex, 14 miles from London, to the left of the road to Chipping Ongar. THEYDON GERNON, between Theydon Bois and Theydon Mount, is frequently called Cooperfale, from a capital feat of that name, two miles N. of the church. This, and fome of the neighbouring pariflies, may be called " The Garden of Eflex," from the pleafing variety of hills and vales, the fertility of the foil, the number of villas in- terfperfed, and thediverfity of beautiful profpec"ls. THEYDON MOUNT, near 1 6 miles from London, on the left of the road to Chipping Ongar. The church, which had been burnt by lightning, was rebuilt by Sir William Smyth, Bart. In it are fome monuments, the moft ancient of which is that of Sir Thomas Smyth, an able flatefman, one of the moft learned men of his age, and a great promoter of the ftudy of the Greek language. See Hill Hall. THOBY PRIORY, fo called from Tobias, the firft Ab- bot, is fituated in the parifh of Mountnelling, 22 miles from London, on the road to Chelmsford. It was founded in the reign of Stephen, and was granted, by Henry VIII, to Cardinal Wolfey. It is now the property of Henry Prefcott Blencoue, Efq. and in the occupation of John Prinfep, Efq. The houfe, though ftill a fpacious edifice, has been confiderably reduced v within a centuiy part. Some arches are ftill ftanding, as monuments of its original deftination. THORN DON, or HORNDON, EAST and WEST, two parilhes between Brentwood and Horndon-on-the- Hill. The churches of Weft Thorndon and Ingrave being both ruinous, the two pariflies were united by aft of parliament, and a new church was built, in 1734, by the father of the prefent Lord Petre. THORNDON T H U 26l THORNDON HALL, the magnificent feat of Lord Petre, in the parifh of Weft Thorndon, Eflex. The houfe, built by Paine, is fituated on a fine eminence, at the ter- mination of an avenue from Brentvvood, two miles long. It is built of white brick, and confifts of a centre and two wings, connected by circular corridors. The approach from Brentwood is to the weft front, which is not adorned "with any portico or columns ; but the eaft front has a noble portico, with fix fluted pillars of the Corinthian or- der. The lawn falls hence in a gentle flope ; and the pro- fpecl over the Thames into Kent is very fine.. The Hall is a noble room, 40 feet fquare ; richly ftuccoed, orna- mented with fine marble, and containing a great number of portraits. The drawing-room, 38 feet by 26, is hung with green damafk. Adjoining to this, is the library over one of the corridors ; and this is terminated by the gallery in which the family fit, when attending divine fervire in. the elegant chapel which occupies the right wing. The nobleft apartment, whenever it is finished, will be the grand faloon, which is in the weft front, and is 60 feet by 30. Among the paintings at Thorndon Hall, are Lewis Cor- naro and his family, and Sir Thomas More and his family; the firft faid to be by Titian, and the fecond by Holbein ; but the originality of the latter is difputed. See ff'alpole't Anecd. of Painting, yd. I. f, 143. The park is extenfive, finely timbered, and very beau- tiful. The woods are large, and, for variety as well as rarity of trees, are fuppofed to be unequalled. The mena- gerie is a charming fpot. THORPE, a village in Surry, between Chertfey and Egham. At Ambrole's Barn, in this parifh, refides Mr. Wapfhot, a farmer, whofe anceftors have lived on the fame fpot ever fince the time of Alfred, by whom the farm was granted to Reginald Wapfhot. Notwithftanding the anti- quity of this family (and can the Howards or Percys afcend higher?) their fituation in life has never been elevated or deprefled by any vicifiitude of fortune. In this parifli are the feats of Sir Edward Blacket, Bart. John Manningham, Efq. and the Rev. Mr. Bennett ; and, at Thorpe Lea, is the villa of Mr. Wyatt. THUNDRIDGE, a village of Herts, two miles north- eaft 262 TILBURY. eaft of Ware, and on the fouth fide of the river Rib. Ac Thundridgebury is the feat of William Hollingfworth, Efq. TILBURY, EAST, on the Thames, below Tilbury Fort. "In this parifh," fays Morant, * was the ancient ferry over the Thames. The famous Higham Caufeway from Rochefter by Higham, yet vifible, points out the place of the old ferry ; and this is fuppofed to be the place where the Emperor Claudius crofled the Thames, in pur- iuit of the Britons, as related by Dion Caffius, i. 60." In this parifh, is a field, called Cave Field, in which is an ho- rizontal paflage to one of the fpacious caverns in the neigh- bouring parifh of Chadwtll. Of thefe Camden has given a fketch in his Britannia; and he defcribes them as in a chalky cliff, built very artificially of (tone, to the height of ten fathoms. Dr. Derham meafured three of the mod confiderable of them, and found the depth of one of them to be 50 feet, of another 70 feet, and of the third 80 feet. Their origin is too remote for inveftigation. TILBURY, WEST, an ancient town in EfTex, near the mouth of the Thames. Here the four Roman proconsular ways crofled each other, and, in the year 630, this was the fee of Bifhop Ceadda, or St. Chad, who converted the Eaft Saxons. It is fituated by the marflies, which are rented by the farmers, and grazing butchers of London, who generally ftock them with Lincolnfhire and Leicefterfhire weathers, which are fent hither from Smithfield in September and October, and fed here till Chriftmas or Candlemas; and this is what the butchers call right marfh mutton. In this parifh is a celebrated fpring of alterative water, difco- vered in 1717. When the Spanifli armada was in the Channel, in 1 588, Queen Elizabeth had a camp here, which was where the windmill now Hands; and fome traces of it are vifible. TILBURY FORT, in the parifh of Weft Tilbury, op- ponte Gravefend, is a regular fortification, and may be termed the key to London. The plan was laid by Sir Mar- tin Beckman, chief engineer to Charles II. It has a dou- ble moat, the innermoft of which is 180 feet broad ; with a good counterfcarp, a covered way, ravelins, and tenails. Its chief ftrength on the land fide confifts in its being able to lay the whole level under vrater. Ou the fide next the river TOT 263 river is a ftrong curtain, with a noble gate, catted the water- gate, in the middle; and the ditch is paliladed. Before this curtain is a platform in the place of a counterfcarp, on which are planted 106 guns, from 24 to 46 pounders each, betide fmaller ones planted between them ; and the bafti- ons and curtains are alfo planted with guns. Here is like- wife a high tower, called the Block-houfe, faid to have been built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. TITTENHANGER HOUSE, near St. Alban's, a feat of the Earl of Hardwicke's, the refidence of Mrs. Crawley. TOOTING, UPPER, a hamlet in the parifh of streat- ham, and in the road to Reigate, 5} miles from London. Here is Grove Houfe, the feat of Mr- Powell. TOOTING, LOWER, fix miles from London, on the fame road, has alfo many good houfes. The tower of the church is remarkable for being of a circular form, with a low fpire. TOTTENHAM, a village, 41 miles from London, in the road to Ware. In this parim is an ancient manor- houfe, called Bruce Caftle, lately fold by Thomas Smith, Efq. to Mr. Ayton, the Banker, of whom it was purchafed by his partner Mr. Lee. Here alfo is the elegant refidence, called Mount Pleafant, of Rowland Stephenfon, Efq. Grove Houfe, the feat of Thomas Smith, Efq. Lofd of the Manor, was feveral years the refidence of that upright and excellent judge, Sir Michael Forfter. The church is fituated on an eminence, almofl furround- ed by the Mofel, a rivulet, which rifes on Mufwell Hill. Over the porch is an apartment in which the parifli bufi- nefswas formerly tranfaded. The veftry was creeled in 1697, by Lord Coleraine, who made a vault in it for him- felfand his family. It has, indeed, the appearance of a maufoleum, having a dome leaded, and crowned with an obeli fk. At the end of Page Green, (lands a remarkable circular clump of elms, called the-Seven Sifters. In a field on the weft fide of the road, is St. Ley's well, which is faid to be always full, and never to run over ; and, in a field oppo- ilte the Vicarage Houfe, rifes a fpring, called Bi/hop's Well,, of which the common people report many ftrange ciues. In 264 T U R In the town, has been a crofs, from time immerorial. It was formerly a column of wood, raifed" upon a little hil- lock ; whence the village took the name of High Crofs. It was taken down about 200 years ago, and the prefent ftruc- ture erected, in its ftead. by Dean Wood. In this parifli are three alms-houfes. Of one of them, for eight poor people, it is remarkable, that it was creeled by Balthazar Zanchez, a Spaniard, who was confectioner to Philip II of Spain, with whom he came over to Eng- land, and was the firft that exercifed that art in this countty. He became a Proteftant, and died in i6oz. It is faid that he lived in the houfe, now the George and Vulture Inn ; at the entrance of which are fixed the arms of England, within a garter, fupported by a lion and griffin, and with the initials E. R : over another door is 1587. Here alfo is a free fchool, of which, at the end of the lafl century, that celebrated fcholar and antiquary, Mr. Wil- liam Baxter, was mafter. There is a Queer's Meeting at Tottenham : on which account, many families of that perfuafion have their coun- try houies here. TOTTERIDGE, a village of Hertford (hi re, near Bar- net, ten miles from London. Among many other hand- fome houfes, is the feat, with a fine park, of Mrs. Lee. TRENT PLACE, a beautiful villa on Enfield Chafe. "When that part of the Chafe, which was referved to the Crown, in confequence of the aft for disforefting it, was foid by aucYion in the duchy court of Lancafter, two of the lots were bought by Dr. Richard Jebb, who had fuccefs- fully attended the Duke of Gloucefter, when dangeroufiy ill, at Trent, in the Tirol. Dr. Jebb converted his pur- chafe into a delightful park, and erected this elegant villa, in imitation of an Italian loggia, with a mufic-room, &c. His Majefty, on conferring the dignity of Baronet on Dr. Jebb, gave the name of Trent Place to this villa, in grate- ful commemoration of the medical (kill by which the Duke's life had been preferved. After the death of Sir Richard, the Earl of Cholmondeley purchafed this place ; but it is now the property of John Wigftor*, Efq. TURNHAM GREEN, a village, five miles from Lon- ion, in the pariih of Chifwick. Here is the villa of .the late TWICKENHAM. '265 fate Lord Heathfield, now the property of Dr. Mayerf- bach ; and near this is the new-built noule of James Arm- ftrong, Efq. TWICKENHAM, a village of Middlefex, 10} miles from London, fituate on the Thames, and adorned with many handfome feats. Proceeding along the river from Teddington, is a delightful cottage, the retreat of the late Mrs. Clive, which Mr. Walpole gave to her for her life; and in the gardens of which he has placed an urn, with this infcription : Ye Smiles and Jefts, ftill hover round ; This is Mirth's confecratcd ground : Here liv'd the laughter-loving Dame, A matchlefs Adlrefs, dive her name. The Comic Mufe with her retir'd, And flied a tear wheQ me expir'd. H. W. This houfe adjoins the wood belonging to-Strawberry Hill, and is now the refidence of Mifs Mary and Mifs Agnes Berry. Next to Strawberry Hill is the houfe lately the property of Sir Francis Baflet, Bart, now in the occupation of the Ladies Murray. Below this, is Mr. May's beautiful little houfe, built by Mr. Hudfon, the painter, the mafter of Sir Jofliua Reynolds; oppofite the back of which is a fmall houfe, with an elegant Gothic front, the property of Mr. Lewen> Next is the celebrated villa of Pope, now of Welbore Ellis Lord Mendip ; adjoinwg to whofe gardens is Colonel Crolby's. Near this is the feat of Countefs Dowager Poulett. Farther down is Ricluhonds Houfe, the feat of Mrs. Allanfon. All thefe houfes enjoy a pleafing profpect up and down the river, perpetually enlivened by the weft-country navigation, and other moving pictures on the furface of the water. Below the church is Yorke Houfe, the feat of Colonel Webber. On the fite of the late Earl of Stafford's houfe, Lady Anne Conolly has creeled a noble feat. Next to this is the houfe of George Pooock, Efq. (fon of the late Admiral Sir George Pocock, K. 13.) the additional oclagon room to which was built,to entertain Queen Caroline at dinner, by the then proprietor James Johnftone, Efq. Jn 1694, it was lent (by the then pro- prietor Mrs. Davies) to the Princefs Anne of Denmark ; A a ~ change 266 TWICKENHAM. rhangc of nir being thought necefiary for the Duke of Glourcflfi- ; and the Duke brought with him his regiment of I'oys, [Sff Cnmpden Hovfr] which he ufed to excrcife on the oppoiite ayte. Below this is Mr. Hardinge's pretty box. called Ragman's Cattle. Near this are Marble Hill and Spencer Grove; below which is the feat of Richard ( )'..-en Cambridge, Efq. who has a good collection of pic- tures bv the old matters, and fome valuable portraits ; par- ticularly, a fine portrait of Secretary Thurloe, by Dobfon ; Mary Davis, a celebrated aftrefs in the laft century ; An- gelica Kauffman, by herfelf ; and a large group or the late Nabob of Arcot and his family, Kettle. The view of Kichmond Hill, by Tillemans, is particularly mterefting, fo near the fpot whence it was taken. Next this is Twick- enham Park, the feat of Lord Frederick Cavendifh. Here the great Sir Francis Bacon, (whom Voltaire calls the father of experimental pbilofophy) fpent much of the early part of his life, in ftudious retirement ; and here lie entertained Queen Elizabeth, to whom he then pre- fented a fonnet in praife of the Earl of Ef&x. In this houfe are two fine portraits, faid to be of General Monk and General Lambert ; Edward Earl of Ortord, and two other Admirals, in a converfation piece ; a frame, with fketches of fix heads, in Lely's manner; a Spanifh bull- fight, &c. Thefe, with all the furniture. Were left as heir- looms by the Countefs of Mountrath, from whom Lord Frederick inherits the eltate. Part of the houfe is in the parifh of lileworth. In the meadows between this houfe and the river, was originally the fite of Sion nunnery. We* now return to Pope's houfe and gardens. In his lifetime, the houfe was humble and confined. Veneration for his memory has fince enlarged its dimenfions. The centre building only was the refidence of Pope. Sir Wil- liam Stanhope, who purchafed it on his death, added the two wings, and enlarged the gardens. Over an arched wav, leading to the new gardeus, is a buft of Pope in white marble, under which are thefe lines by Earl Nugent ; The riumble roof, the garden's fcanty line, III fuit the genius of the bard divine: Bt-K Tancy now difpUysa fairer fcope, And Stanhope's plans unfold the foul of Pope, Lord TWICKENHAM. 267 Lord Mendip, who married the daughter of Sir William Stanhope, ftuccoed the front of the houfe, and adorned it in an elegant ftyie. The lawn was enlarged ; and, to- ward the margin of the river, propped with uncommon care, itand the two weeping willows planted by Pops him- felf. They who can cherifli each memorial upon cl ground, will rejoice to find that thefe trees (one of which, is one of the fineft of its kind, a vegetable curiolity) are as fioiirifhing as ever. Not only the prefent proprietor pre- fer ves inviolate the memory of Pope, but flips of this tree are annually tranfmittt-d to different parts ; and, in 1789, the Emprefs of Rullia had fome planted in her own garden at Petcrfburgh. The once celebrated grotto is no longer remarkable but for having been creeled under the immediate direction of our bard. The dilapidations of time, r.nd the pious tbefis of vifitors, who felect the fpars, ores, and evc.ii the common- flints, ss io mzu\Jacrcitrt:cs, have ahno'l broi^ht it to ruin. It no longer forms a "camera obfcura ;" nor dees "the thin ulabaiter lamp of an orbicular form" now " irradiate the ftar of locking- glafs'' placed in the centje of it. Even the " perpetual rill that echoed through the cavern day and night," is no longer in exiftence. Sec Pofe's Later to. E. Bfainf, Efj. Juxt 2, 1725. In two adjoining apertures in the rock are placed a Ceres and a Bacchus, an excellent buft of Pope, and fome other figures. In the right cavity, which opens to the river, by a final! window latticed with iron bars,, our bard fat, it ii Ii.irr: on all he fpo-kc, : ii-itt ni.-.licr of tlu- SM.-.1I puts fo various aim ;it r.o.h'ng new ? li?}\ (hi:,e ;i Tally aid a V/ihmc t o. Then turns repentant, ?nd his Gud adores V/ith ths taroe fplrit tli.it l.e drir.k<> and vvh 1 -,."--- ; Enough it" all around h'm but admire, And now the punk applaud, ani now the fiUr." Thus with each g'rt of r.r.tuve and of a:t, And wanting nothing but sn honelt heirt; Grown all to all, from no one vice exempt ; And mr.ft contemptible, to (him conternpt ; His pafiion ftill, to covet general pr.iiic ; His life, to forfeit it a thoufand ways ; A conitant bounty, which no friend his made; An angel tongue, which no man can pcifuade; A fool, with more of wit than half mankind, Too rafh for thought, for action too rcfin'J j A tyrant to the wife his heart approves ; A rebel to the very king he lovc-s ; He dies, fad outcavt of each church and ftate, Arid, hardtr ftill ! flagitious, yet not great. POPE, Lady Mary Wortley Montague lived feveral years in the houfe, which was the late Dr. Morton's In the church of Twickenham, Pope and his parents are interred. V A L 269 interred. To their memory, he himfelf ererfled a monu. ment: to his own, the gratitude of Warburton creeled another. On the outfide of the church, on a marble ta- ble, are the following lines, by Mii-s Pope, to the memory of Mrs. Cltve-. dive's blamelcfs life this tablet fhall proclaim, Her moral virtues and her well earn 'd Tame. la comic fcenes the ftage /he early trod, " Nor fought the critic's praife, nor fear'd his rod." In real life, was equal priife her due, Open to pity and to friend/hip to>; ID wit ftill pleafing, as in coaveife free From all that could afRift humanity : Her gen'rous heart to all her friends was known, And ev'n the ftranger's forrows were her own. Content with tame, ev'n affluence (he wav'd, To fliare with others what by to;l (he fav'd. ; And, nobly bounteous, from her flender (lore, She bade two dear relations not be poor! Such deeds on life's fhort fccnes true glory fhcd, And heav'nly plaudits hail the virtuous dead. On the fmall river Crane (which enters the Thames at Ifleworth) are Mr. Hill's gunpowder and Mr. Window's oil-mills. See Marbk Hill, Ragman's Co/tie, Richmont/s Hottf?, Spencer Grove, Strawberry Hilt, Wbition^ and 2~crte Houfe. TYBOURN, anciently a village, weft of London, on the rivulet Ty bourn, whence it took its name. It is fituated in the parifli of Paddington. Here the city had nine ancient conduits. CJofe toTybourn Bridge ftood the Lord Mayor's Banqueting Houfe, to which his Lordfliip ufed to repair, with the Aldermen and their ladies, in waggons, to view the conduits; after which they had an entertainment at the Banqueting Houfe. This edifice was taken down in 1737. Tybourn was, till 1783, the place of execution for London and Middkfex.. V ALENTINE HOUSE, the feat of the late Sir Charles Raymond, Bart, and now of Donald Cameron, .Efq. A a 3 at 270 VAUXHALL. atllford, in Eflex. In a hot-houfe, here, Mr. Cameron has a vine, which is almoft incredibly productive.* VAUXHALL, one of the fix precmc"ls of the pai ifh of Lambeth. There is ^a tradition, that Guy Faukes refided in the manor-houfe of Vauxhall or Fauxhall, the fite of which is now occupied by Marble Hall and the Cumber- Jand Tea Gardens. But there appears no ground for this tradition, except the coincidence of names. Here is an almmoufe for feyen poor women, founded in 1612, by Sir Noel Caron, who was Ambaflador from Holland to this country. Over the gate is a Latin infcription, importing, that it was founded in the 32nd year of his embafly, " as an infignificant monument of what he owed to tfie glory of God, in gratitude to the nation, and in munificence to the poor." The prefent income of thefe houfes is zSl.lper an- num, payable out of Caron Park, the villa of Charles Blicke, Efq. (exclufive of a legacy of i,iool. bequeathed to * The following account of this vine is taken from Mr. Gilpin's Re- flecYions on Foreft Scenery: "This vine was planted, a cutting, in 175*$, of the black Hamburgh fort ; and as this fpecies will not eafily bear the open air, it was planted in the hot-houfe; though without any prepara- tion of foil, which in thofe grounds is a ftifFloam, or rather clay. The hot-houfe is 70 feet in the front ; and the vine, whicjji is not pruned in the common way, extends 20 feer, part of it runrijng along the fouth wall on the outfide of the hot-houfe. In the common mode of pruning, this fpecies of vine is no great bearer ; but rrianaged AS it is, it produces wonderfully. Sir Charles Raymond, on the death of hij- lady, in 1781, left Valentine Houfe ; at which time the gardener had tke profits of the vine. It annually produces about 400 weight of grapes ; which ufed formerly (when the hot-houfe, I fuppofe, was kept warmer) to ripen in March ; though lately they have not ripened till June, when they fell at 43. a pound, which produces about Sol. This account I had from Mr. Eden himfelf, the gardener, who planted the vine. With regard to the profits of it, I think it probable, from the accounts I have had from other hands, that when the grapes ripened earlier, they produced much more than 8cl. A gentleman of character informed me, that he had it from S.r Charles Raymond himfelf, that, after fupplyin^ his own table, he made 120!. a year of the grapes ; and the f^ms gentleman, who was curi- ous, enquired of the fruit-dealers, who told him, that in fome years, they iuppofed the profits have not amounted to lefs than 300!. This does not contradict Mr. Eden's account, who faid, that the utmoft he ever made of it (that is, I fuppofe, when the .grapes fold for 43. per pound in June) was 84!. The ftem of this Vine was, in 1789, j 3 inches in circum- feicnce. the VAUXHALL GARDENS. 27! the alms-people, in 1773, by the Dowager Countefs Gower. Thefe women muft be parifhioners of Lambeth, and up- ward of 60 years old. They are allowed to get an addi- tion to their income, by the exertions of induftry. On the right handof the road to Wandfworth, is a fine fpring called Vauxhall Well; which, in the hardeft winter, is never known to freeze. See Lambeth, South. VAUXHALL GARDENS, the moft celebrated public gardens in Europe, fituate near the Thames, in the parifli of Lambeth. The time when this enchanting place was firft opened for the entertainment of the public is not eafy to be afcertained. In the reign of Queen Anne, it appears to have been a place of great public refort ; for in the Spec- tator, No. 383, dated May 20, 1712, Mr. Addifon has in- troduced his favourite character, Sir Roger de Coverley, as accompanying him in a voyage from the Temple Stairs to Vauxhall. Long after we find in the Connoifleur, No. 68, a very humorous defcription of the behaviour of an old citizen, who, rtotwithftanding his penurious difpofition, Jiad treated his family here with a handfome fupper. The gardens appear to have been originally planted with trees, ^nd laid out into walks, for the pleauire of ''a private gen- tleman.* Mr. Jonathan Tyers having taken a Jeafe ot the premifes in 1730, opened ' Vauxhall (then called Spring Gardens) with an advertifement of a Ridotto al Frefco. The novelty of this term attracted great numbers : and Mr. Tyers was fo fuccefsful in occafional repetitions of the fame entertainments, as to be induced to open the gardens every evening during the fummer. To this end, he was at a great expence in decorating the gardens with paint- ings, in which he was affifted by the humorous pencil of Hogarth. He likewife erefted an orcheftra, engaged a band of mufic, and placed a fine ftatue of Handel, by Rou- biliac, in a confpicuous part of the gardens. The feafon for opening the gardens commences fome time in May, and continues till toward the end of Auguft. Every evening (Sunday and Friday excepted) they are opened at half part fix. * Sir Samuel Morland, Knight, who difplayed in his houfc and gar- dens, many whimfical proofs uf bis /kill io mechanics, On 272 VAUXHALL GARDENS. On entering the great gate, to which you are conduced by a fliort avenue from the road, you pay two {hillings for admittance. The firft fcene that falutes the eye, is a no- ble gravel walk, 900 feet long, planted on each fide with a row of ftately elms, which form a fine vifta, terminated by the reprefentation of a temple, in which is a tranfpa- rency, emblematic of gratitude to the public. Advancing a few fteps, we behold, to the right, a quad- rangle, called the Grove. In the centre, is a magnificent Gothic orcheftra, ornamented with carvings, niches, &c. The ornaments are plaftic, a compofition fomething like plafter of Paris, but known only to the ingenious architect who defigned this beautifur object. In fine weather, the mufical entertainments are performed here by a band of vocal and inftru mental performers. At the upper extre- mity of this orcheftra, is a fine organ ; and, at the foot of it, are the feats and defks for the muficians, placed in a femicircular form, leaving a vacancy at the front for the vocal performers. The concert is opened with inftrumen- tal mufic at eight o'clock, after which the company are entertained withafong; and in this manner other fongs are performed, with concertos between each, till the clofe of the entertainment, which is at eleven. In the front of a large timber building, which you ap- proach from the middle of the great room, is a painted lamlfcape, called the Day Scene. At the end of the firft act, this is drawn up, to exhibit the fcene of a cafcade, with a very natural reprefentation of a water-mill, and a bridge, with a mail coach, a Greenwich long ftage, &c. In tea minutes, it is down again, and the company return to hear the remaining part of the concert. A glee and catch, in three or four parts, are performed in the middle and at the end of the mufical bill of fare, which always connfts of fix- teen pieces. In the grove, fronting the orcheftra, tables and benchea are placed for the company, and, ftill further from the or- cheftra, is a pavilion of the Compofite order, built for the )ate Prince of Wales. The afcent is by a dmible flight o fteps. Behind it, is a drawing-room; to which is an en- trance, from the outfide of the garden^ for the admittance of any of the royal family.. The VAUXHALL GARDENS. 273 The grove is illuminated by about 2oooglafs lamps, and a great number of variegated lamps are interfperfed, which produce a fine effect. In cold or rainy weather the mufical performance is in a rotundo. This is 70 feet in diameter, and nearly oppofite the grand orcheftra. Along the front, next the grove, is a colonnade, formed by a range of pillars, under which is the entrance from the grove. Within this room, is the little orcheftra. In the centre of the rotundo hangs a glafs chandelier. The roof is a dome, dated on the outtide. It is fo contrived, that founds never vibrate under it; and thus the mufic is heard to the greateft advantage. It is now made to reprefent a magnificent tent, the roof of which is of blue and yellow filk in alternate ftripes: it feems to be iupported by 20 pillars, reprefenting Roman fafces gilt,' and bound together by deep rofe-coloured ribbands, with military trophies in the intervals. The fides of the tent being drawn up, and hanging in the form of feftoons, the rotundo has the beautiful appearance of a flower garden; the upper part being painted all round like a iky, and the lower part, above the feats, with fhrubs, flowers, and other rural decorations. At the extremity of this rotundo, op- pofite the orcheftra, is a faloon, the entrance of which is formed by columns of the Ionic order, painted in imitation of fcagliola. In the roof, which is arched and elliptic, are two little cupolas in a peculiar tafte; and, from the centre of each, defcends a large glafs chandelier. Adjoining to the walls are ten three-quarter columns for the fupport of the roof: they are of the Ionic order, painted in imitation- of fcagliola. Between thefe columns are four pictures, (in magnificent gilt frames) by the mafterly pencil of Mr. Hayman. The firft reprefents the furrender of Montreal, in Ca- nada, to General (now Lord) Amherft. On a ftone, at one corner of the picture, is this infcription : POWER. EXERTED, CONQUEST OBTAINED, MERCY SHEWN! MDCCLX. The VAUXHALL GARDENS. The fccond reprefents Britannia, holding a medallion of his prefent Majcity, and fitting on the right hand of Nep- tune, in his chariot drawn by feahories. In the back- ground is the defeat of the French fleet by Sir Edward Hawke, in 1759. Round the chariot of Neptune are at- tendant fea-nymphs, holding medallions of the molt diftin- guiflied Admirals in that glorious war. For that of Lord Hawke, his Lord {hip fat to the painter. The third repre- fents Lord CJive receiving the homage of the Nabob of Ben- gal. The fourth reprefents Britannia diftributing laurels to the principal officers who ferved in that war; as the Marquis of Granby, the Earl of Albemarle, General (now Marquis) Townfhend, Colonels Monckton, Coote, &c. The entrance into this faloon, from the gardens, is through a Gothic portal, on each fide of which, on the iu- fide, are the pictures of their Majefties, in their coronation robes. A few years ago, a new room, 100 feet by 40, was added to the rotundo. It is now opened as a fupper room. In a recefs, at the end of it, is the beautiful marble fiatue of Handel, formerly in the open gardens. He is reprefented, ]ikc Orpheus, playing on the lyre. This was the firft di- play of the wonderful abilities of Roubiliac. Although not fo large as the life, it is very like the original. The excellence of the fculpture exhibits a model of perfection, both in the defign and execution.. In fine, this combina- tion of rare talents in theperfon reprefented, and the happy idea of the fculptor, gave rife to the following well-turned compliment : Drawn by the fame of thefe embower'd retreats, See Orpheus rifen from th' Elyfian feats ! Loft to th' admiring world thoufand years } Beneath great Handel's form he re-appear.,,, The grove is bounded by gravel-walks, and a number of pavilions, ornamented with paintings defigned by Hay- maa and Hogarth; and each pavilion has a table that will hold fix or eight perfons. To give a lift of the paintings in thefe pavilions, we muft begin with our entrance into the garden. The firft is on the left hand, under a Gothic piazza and colonnade, formed by a range of pillars, which ftretch VAUXHALL GARDENS. 27$ ft retch along the front of the great room. It reprefems two Mahometans gazing in afronifhment at the beauties of the place; 2. A fhepherd playing on his pipe, and decoy- ing a fhepherdefs into a wood; 3. New River Head, at Islington; 4. Quadrille, and the tea- equi page ; 5. Mafic s:id tinging; 6. Building houfes with cards ; 7. A fcene in the Mork Doclor ; 8. An Archer ; g. Dances round the 'Maypole ; i o. Thread my needle ; 1 1 . Flying the kite ; 1 3 . Pamela revealing to Mr. B's houfe-keeper her wiflies to re- turn home ; 13. A fcene in the Devil to Pay ; 14. Shuttle- cock ; 15. Blunting the whittle; 1 6. Pamela flying from Lady Davers; 17. A fcene in the Merry Wives of Wind- for; 18. A fea engagement between the Spaniards and Moors. The pavilions continue in a fweep which leads to a beautiful piazza and a colonnade 500 feet in length, in the form of a femicircle, of Gothic architecture, embel- lifhed with rays. In this femicircle of pavilions are three large ones, failed temple?; one in the middle, and the otrTers at each end, adorned with a dome; but the two latter are now converted into portals, (one as an entrance into the great room, and the other as a paflage to view the cafcade) which are directly oppofite to each other: the middle temple, however, is ftill a place for the recep- tion of company, and is painted, in the Chinefe tafte, by Rifquet, with the ftory of Vulcan catching Mars and Ve- nus in a net. On- each fide of this temple the adjoining pavilion is decorated with a painting; that on the right re- prefents the entrance into Vanxhall ; and that on the left, Friendihip on the grafs, drinking. The paintings in the other pavilions of this fweep are landfcapes. Having traverfed this femicircle, we come to a fweep of pavilions that lead into the great walk : the laft of thefe is a painting of Black-eyed Sufan returning to fliore. Returning to the grove, where we fiiall find the remain- der of the boxes and paintings better than thole heretofore fecn, and beginning at the eaft end, which is behind the orcheftra, and oppofite the femicircle above mentioned, the pavilions are decorated with the following pieces: i. Difficult to pleafe; z. Sliding on the ice; 3. Bagpipes and hautboys ; 4. A bonfire at Charing Crofs, the Jxilif- bury S.? VAUXHALL GARDENS. buiy ftage overturned, &c. 5. Blindman's buff; 6. Leap frog; 7. The Wapping landlady, and the tars juft come afhore; 8. Skittles. Proceeding forward we fee another range of pavilions, in a different ftyle, adorned with paintings, and forming another fide of the quadrangle. Thefe are, i. The taking of Porto Bello; 2. Mademoifelle Catherine, the dwarf; 3. Ladies angling; 4. Bird-nefting; 5. The play at bob- cherry ; 6. Falftaff's cowardice detected ; 7. The bad fa- mily ; 8. The good family; 9. The taking of a Spanifh regifter-fhip, in 1742. Next is a femicircle of pavilions, with a temple and dome at each end. In the centre, is the entrance of an anti-room, leading to the Prince's Gallery, which was built in 1791, and is opened on mafquerade and gala nights only. It is near 400 feet long, and is adorned, on each fide, by land- fcapes in compartments, between paintings of double co- lumns, encircled in a fpiral form by feftoons of flowers. At one end, is a fine tranfparency, reprefenting the Prince of Wales in armour, leaning againft his horfe, which is held by Britannia, while Minerva is holding the helmet, and Prudence fixing the fpurs ; and Fame appears above, with her trumpet, and a wreath of laurel. The anti-room, erected in 1792, is fitted up all round with arabefque or- naments, on pannels of a white ground, between fluted pilafters. The remainder of the paintings in this range are, i. Bird-catching; 2. See-faw; 3. Fairies dancing by moon- light ; 4. The milk-maid's garland; 5. The kifs ftolen. Here ends the boundary of the grove on this fide; but, turning on the left, we come to a walk that runs along the bottom of the gardens : on each {ide t)f this walk are pavi- lions, and thofe on the left hand are decorated with the fol- lowing paintings : i. A prince and princefs in a traineau ; a. Hot cockles; 3. A gypfy telling fortunes by the coffee- cups; 4. A Chriftmas gambol; 5. Cricket. On the oppofite fide is a row of pavilions; and, at the extremity of this walk, is another entrance into the gardens immediately from the great road. At the other end of the walk, adjoining to the Prince's pavilion, is a femicircle of pavilions ornamented with three Gothic temples. From VAUXIIALL GARDENS. 2/7 From the upper end of this walk, where we concluded the lift of the paintings, is a narrow vifta that runs to the top of the gardens : this is called the Druid's or Lover's Walk : on both fides of it are rows of lofty trees, which, meeting at the top, and interchanging their boughs, form a fine verdant canopy. In thefe trees build a number of nightingales, blackbirds, thrufhes, &c. whofe fweet har- mony adds to the peculiar pleafure which thefe fhades af- ford. The anti-room runs acrofs one part of this walk. Returning to the fpot where once flood the flatue of Handel, we may, by looking up the garden, behold a noble villa, which is called the, grand fouth walk, of the fame fi/e as that feen at our firft entrance, and parallel with it. It is terminated by a Gothic temple, which is opened on gala nights, and exhibits four illuminated vertical columns, in motion, and, in the centre, an artificial fountain: all which is effected by very ingenious machinery. In the centre of the crofs gravel walk, is a temple, the largefl of the kind, in England, built in 17)56, by Mr. Smith of Knight (bridge, and brought here in three pieces only, though the diameter is 44 feet, and the dome is fup- ported by eight lofty pillars. On the right, this walk is terminated by a fine ffotue of Apollo ; and, at the extremity on the left, is a painting of a ftone quarry in the vicinity of BrUlol. From our fituation to view this painting is another gra- vel walk that leads up the gardens, formed on the right fide by a wildernefs, and on the left by rural downs, as they are termed, in the form of a long fquare, fenced by a net, with little eminences in it after the manner of a Roman cnmp. There are likewife feveral bufhes, from under which, a ft w years ago, fubterraneous mufical founds were heard, called by fonne the fairy mufic ; which put many people in mind of the vocal foreft, or that imaginary being called tor o,?. nius of the wood ; but the damp of the earth being fouiui prejudicial to the inftruments, this romantic entertainment ceafed. The downs are covered with turf, and inter/uerfed with cyprefs, fir, yew, cedar, and tulip trees. On one of t!xe eminences, is a ftatue of Milton, catt in lead by Ruubih.tc, but painted of a ftone colour. He is feated oa a io k, liftening to fubterraneous harmony : B b Swrct 2;8 VAUXHALL GARDENS. Sweet mufic breathe Ahove, around | or untie n.uth, Sent by feme fpirit to mortals .good Or th* unfcen genius of ihe wood. IL PENSOROIO. Moft of the walks form the boundaries of wildernefles eompoied of trees which flioot to a great height, and are all inrlofcd by a rude, but fuitable fence, fomewhat in the Chinefe tafte. A few years ago, a colonnade, which forms a fquare, was creeled in the walks round the orcheftra. It is an admira- ble flicker from a fliower of rain. It coil 2000!. the ex- penfe of which was defrayed by a Ridotto al Frefco. The roof, &:c. aie richly illuminated, particularly on a gala night, when upward of 14,000 lamps have been ufed in the gardens at one time. In a dark night the illuminations are very beautiful, and- cannot fail to pk-afe every fufceptible fpedator; but in a moon-light night there is fomething which fo ftrongly af. feels the imagination, that any one who has read the Ara- bian Nights' Entertainment, can hardly fail to recollect the snagic, reprefentations in that book. When the mufic is finished,' numbers of the company retire to the pavilions to (upper. To detain their vifitors, the proprietors have engaged a band of wind mufic to con- tinue playing in the grand orcheftra, while, at intervals, a hand of Savoyards, in a fmall moveable orchefira, contri- bute alfo to enliven the fcene. Not one of thefe perfor- mers is permitted to take money, or any refrefhment, from the company. On gala nights, the band of the Duke of York's regiment of guards, drcfied in full uniform, adds to the fplendour of the gardens by the mr.gnificence of mili- tary harmony. About one hundred nights make the" feafon of Vaux- hail ; and the average of one thoufand perfons a night is fuppoied to make a good feafon to the proprietors. More than i r,ooo perfons have been aflembled in thefe gardens at once ; and of thefe, not lefs than 7000 were accommo- dated with provifions and refrefhments. Befide the covered walks, all paved with compofition, inftead of clinkers or gravel, almoft all the pavilions have colonnades in front, feven feet broad, which -effectually fhelter VET 279 fhelter them from rain ; and there is a handfome waiting. room, 30 feet by 20, near the coach entrance into the gardens. Here it may not be improper to fubjoin an account of the provifions and wines as they are fold in the gardens. Champagne Fib.-.tir.iac Burgundy Claret Old Hock Rhcnlfb. Madeira Sherry Cjicavella Mountain O'd Fort Arrack, per quart Table-beer, 4uart rnua A chtckert ' A pulled chicken A difli of hnm A pi t'e c.f ham A plate of beef VETIULAM, a once celebrated town, fituate r lofe by St. A' tan's. In the time of Nero it was a mutiicif>ium, or town, the inhabitants of which enjoyed the privileges of Roman citizens. After the departure of the Romans, it was entirely ruined by the wars between the Britoas and Saxons; and nothing remains of ancient Verulam. but the ruins of wails, tcflellated pavements, and Roman coins, which art fometimes dug up. The fite of it has been long converted into corn-fields. Seges eji ubi Troja fuit. VETERINARY COLLEGE, an excellent inlHtution, eftablifhed in 1791, under the aufpices of perfons of the fii ft rank and fortune, at Camden Town, in the pai ifh of Panrras. The defign is principally to promote a reforma- tion in that particular branch of veterinary f< ience, called Farriery; and to refcue the management and cuie of dif- orders incident to horfes, and frequently the lives of thofe truly valuable animals, from the hands of the unlkiiful and. 13 b 2 illiterate. 1. rf. s. d. '3 o A plate of collared beef I o 7 6 A lettuce 6 JO A cruet of oil 4 7 6 A lemon o j n o A flic? >f bread q I 5 6 A bifcuic o i 6 o A p.it of l.utter a 2. 4 6 A dice of chccfe i 4 o A rait " I J 6 A cuftarrl ' o A 3 6 Achctfc-cake 4 3 6 A h-art-c.ike 1. 8 A Shrcwfb'jry cake 2 6 A plate of anchovies I 3 o A |)1:.tc of olives -- T 3 A ^utumbtr 6 A jelly _ 6 i Wax light* 1 6 i o u P M illiterate. It is calculated alfo to render that n refpe<5lablr profeffion, which had hitherto been confidered as beneath the ftudy and attention of men of liberal education. The Duke of Northumberland was the firft Prefident of the College. There are 1 1 Vice-Prefidents, 24 Directors, a Treafurer, Profeflbr, Secretary, and Collector. The Pre- fident, Vice-Prefidents, and ten of the Directors, the Trea- furer, and Collector, are chofen annually, by ballot. The entire management of the College is in the Council, which, confifts of the Prefident, Vice-Prefidents, and Directors; fubjeft to the control of lour quarterly general meetings of the fubfcribers. A houfe in the road to Highgate ferves, at prefent, for a temporary college. The new building is to extend in front 270 feet, and to confift of a houfe for the ProfefTor and Secretary, apartments for the Pupils, .com- mittee rooms, Sfc. In the plan, Jikewife, is included a theatre, a mufeum, a laboratory, a room for pharmacy, an operating room, a forge, commodious ftabling for 500 horfes, a fpacious riding-houfe, a botanical garden, &c. The e hands of Government ; fome manufactories for printed linens, and fome newly-erected buildings for the manufacture of pins. The river Lea here forms feveral Wands. WALTHAM CROSS, or WEST WALTHAM, a village in Herts, on the weft fide of the river. Lea, is fitw- ated on fhe road to Ware, nj miles from London. It takes its firft appellation from the crofs erected here by Ed- ward I, in honour of his Queen Eleanor. It was a noble flructure, and round it were feveral effigies, with the arms of England, Caftile, Leon, Poitou, &c. which are now greatly defaced. It is fituated near the entrance into the parifli of Cheftnmt. In 179$, preparations were made for taking down this crofs, in order to remove it into the grounds of Sir William George Prefcott, Bart. Lord of the Manor, foj^its better prefei vation ; but, after removing the upper 284 WAN upper tier of ftone, finding it too hazardous an undertaking:, on account of the decayed ftate of the ornamental parts, the fcaffold was removed ; aiuf proper meafures were taken to repair this ancient memorial of conjugal afFcclion. WALTHAMSTOW, a village in Eflex, five miles from London, on the road from Lea Bridge to Epping, has many hand Tome houfes; particularly, Higham Hall, late the pro- perty of Governor Hornby, fituate on the lide of the road, in a line between the houfes of Mr. Goddard and Mr. Moxon at Woodford. It has been lately fold to Mr. Har- man. Near Marfh Street, is the ancient feat of the late Thomas Gi\ * enor, Efq ; and here are the feat and plea- fure-grounds of Sir Charles Pole, Bart. WALTON, a village in Surry, on the Thames, between Weybridge and Moulley. Here are the remains of an an- cient camp, fuppofed to have been Roman; and from this village runs a rampart of earth, with a trench, as far as St. George's Hill, in the fame parifli. A curious bridge over the Thames, erected, in 1750, by Mr. Decker, has fince been taken down, and a new one creeled in its ftead. In this parifh is Apps Court, the feat of Jeremiah Hodges, Efq ; Afhley Park, the feat of Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. Paine's Hill, the feat of the late Mr. Hopkins; Burvvood, the feat of Mrs. Currie; Eurwood Hill, the refidence of Mr. Tynte; Burwood Park, the feat of Sir Jphn Fre- derick, Bart, and the manfion of the Earl of Tankerville. 'See Oatlands and Paine's Hill. WALWORTH, a village in the parifli of Xewrngton Butts, in Surry. It was probably the birthplace of the ce- lebrated Sir William Walworth, the ftory of whofe exploit in Smithfield, in killing the rebel Wat Tyler, ishandfomely painted on the fign of one of the public-houfes here. WANDLE, or VANDAL, a river, which rifes near Carfhalton in Surry, and paffing by Croydon and Merton, falls into the Thames at Wandfworth. It is a fine trout ftream ; but more celebrated for the confequence which Pope has given it in his " Windibr Foreft :" " The blue tranfparent Vandalis appears.' WANDSWORTH, a village in Surry, five miles from London, fituate in the road to Kingfton, near the conflu- ence WANDSWORTH., 285 ence of the Wandle with the Thames, and between two hills called Eaft Hill and Weft Hill. Al the clofe of the laft century many French refugees fettled here, and efta- blifhed a French church, which is now tifed as a meeting by the methodifts. The art of dying cloth has been prac- tifed at this place, for more than a century, and there are two dyers here, Mr. Barchard and Mr. Williamfon ; the former a frarlet dyer. There are likewife feveral confider- nb!e manufactories here : namely, one for bolting cloth ; Mr. Henchell's iron-mills; the calico printing manufacto- ries of Mr. Gardiner and of MefTrs. Lawrence and Harris ; Mr. Rigby's manufactory for printing kerfeymeres; Mr. Dibble's for whitening and preffing fluffs ; Mr. Were's linfeed oil and white lead mills; Mr. Shepley's oil mills ; Meflrs. Gattey's vinegar works; and the diftilleries of Meflrs. Bufli and Co. The tower of the church is ancient ; but the church itfelf is a modern edifice. Belide the fmall cemetery contiguous to this, there is a more fpacious one on Eaft Hill. On Eaft Hill, on the right, are the houfes of Thomas Tatlock, and Richard Bufli, Efquires. Farther on, to the left, fronted by fine tall elms, is the manfion, formerly of the family of Porter, and afterward the refidence of the Hon. Edward Digby, whofe fons, Henry, now Earl of Digby, and Admiral Robert Digby, were born here. It is now in the po/Teffion of Sir James Sanderfon, Bart. Next is the handiome houfe of Mr. Barchard ; and oppofite this the elegant villa of John Webfter, Efq. All thefe houfes have a delightful view of the Thames, between the bridges of Putney and Batterfea. The two churches of Fulham and Putney to the left, embofomed, as it were, in woods, form, with the bridge, a picturcfq::? apprarance ; and the profpeet is greatly improved by a view of Harrow -on -the- Hill in %he front, and of Hampftead and Highgate to the right. On Weft Hill, to the left, is Down Lodge, the excellent new houfe of Henry Gardiner, Efq. To the right, is Weft Hill Houfe, the refidence of Henry Goodwin, Efq. Farther on, is the 'capital manfion, erected by John Anthony Rucker, Efq. whofe pleafure- grounds are contiguous to Lord Spencer's Park at Wimbledon, and feem to be part 286 WANSTED. of it, and whofe fine foliation commands a view of the Thames toward London, as well as of the delightful coun- try toward Merton, Tooting, Dulwich, Sydenham, and Shooter's Hill. A little farther, to the right, facing Putney Heath, is the villa of Philip De Vifine, Efq. In Love Lane, near the gate leading to Putney, is the houfe late of John 'Wili-not, Efq. now in the occupation of Frederick Hahn, Efq. In Wandfworth, is a Quaker's meeting-honk, and two fchools for children of that perfuafion ; at one of which, that excellent citizen, fenator, and magiftrate, Sir John Barnard, received his.education. In Garret Lane, between this village and Tooting, was formerly a mock election, after every general eleclion, of a Mayor of Garret, to which Mr. Foote's dramatic piece of that name gave no fmall celebrity. WANSTED, a village, fix miles from London, on the fkirts of Epping Forcft, is adorned with feveral villas ; among which, that of George Bowles, Efq. is diftinguiflied for extenfive pleafure-grounds. But thefe are all eclipfed by the magnificence of Wanfted Houfe. The church a new and beautiful ftruhire, was finifhed in 1790. Simplicity and neatnefs were aimed at in this Ifura! temple, by the architect Mr. Thomas Hardwick. The porcico is of the Doric order, and the cupola fupported by eight Ionic columns. The whole of the external part is faced with Portland ftone. The internal order is Corin- thian. The pavement of the church, remarkable for its beauty and neatnefs, was brought from Painfwick : that of the chancel is of the fame kind of ftone, intermixed with black marble dots. The window of the chancel is of ftained glafs ; the fubjcS, Our Saviour bearing the Crois r this, and the circular window, at the enft end of each gal- lery (which are u i y C c 3 WHITTON. with the church, it is approached by >i flight of fteps, and immediately in view, at the entrance, appears the coftly monument of " The Grand Duke" and his firft two wives. Sec Canons. WHITTON, a hamlet of the parifli of Twickenham, adjoining to Hounflow Heath. Here Sir Godfrey Kneller, the celebrated painter, built a handfome houfe, adorned with extenfive plantations, which have been much enlarged and improved by the prefent proprietor, Samuel Prime, Efq , In this houfe Sir Godfrey afted as a Juftice of the Peace; and here he died in 1717. The ftaircafe was painted by Sir Godfrey himfelf, affifted by Laguerre. In this hamlet alfo are the villas of Mrs. Campbell, Mr. Ayl- mer, and George Goftling, Efq. respectively called, Whit- ton Dean, Whitton Farm, and Whitfon Houfe. See the next Article. WHITTON PLACE, the feat of the late Sir William Chambers, Knight of the Swedifh Order of the Polar Star, was built by Archibald third Duke of Argyle. The fpot now occupied by the pleafure-grounds confifted partly of corn-fields, and partly of land taken from Hounflow Heath. To this nobleman, we are principally indebted for the in- troduction of foreign trees and plants, that contribute fo ef- fentially to the richnefs of colouring fo peculiar to our mo- dern landscape ; and, in forming his plantations at Whit- ton, he difplayed great elegance of taue, although the mo- dern art of gardening was, at that time, in a ftate of in- fancy. He planted a great number of cedars, firs, and other evergreens, which now make a majeftic and venerable appearance, and are tome of the fined: to be found in this ountry. Many of the cedars are in Mr. Goftling's grounds, as well as the tower built by the Duke, which commands a profpec~t of great extent. The cedars were planted in 1724. The girth of the largeft is 10 feet 6 inches. He likewife built a noble conservatory, in which he formed one of the beft collections of exotics in England. Thefe are no longer to be feen ; but of their number and value, fome idea may be conceived, when it is conlidered that this very conferratory was fufficiently large to be con- verted into an elegant villa, now the property of Mr. Goft- ling, After the death of the Duke, this place had many proprietors. w i c 295 proprietors. At laft, it came into the pofleflion of Mr. Goflling's father, who converted the confervatory into a villa for himfelf; and, having divided the pleafure-grounds into two parts, fold the principal houfe, with the grounds allotted to it, to Sir William Chambers. In his improvements of this delightful fpot, Sir William appears to have had in view the decorations of an Italian villa. Temples, ftatues, ruins, and antique?, are inter- fperfed. In one part appears the imitation of an ancient Roman bath ; and, in another, a modern temple of JE.fc\i- lapius, creeled in compliment to the Rev. Dr. Willis, to whofe flcill, under the Divine Bleffing, we are indebted for the happy reftoration of our beloved Sovereign, in 1789. Over the door, is the following infcription: .ESCVLAPIO SALV. AVG. RESTITVIT SACK. MDCCLXXXIX. WHITE PLACE, near Cookham, in Berks, the feat of the Rev. Mr. Leycefter, is fituated on the fide of the Thames, commanding the moft piclurefque views of wood- land fcenery, along the oppofite fide of the river ; enriched with the noble feats of Taploe and Hedfor. This houfe is fingularly built of chalk, dug near the fpot ; not a fingle brick having been ufed in the whole ftruclure, except in the chimnies. It has been built more than fifteen years, during which time the various changes of weather do not appear to have affected it in any material degree. WICKHAM, WEST, a parifli in Kent, between Croy- don and Bromley, containing two villages : the one, at a fmall dirtance after having parted Wickham Green from Beckenham; and the other, about a mile farther to the fouth. In the former is the feat of Richard Jones, Efq. In the latter are the church, and the ancient manor-houfe, called Weft Wickham Court, the property of John Far- naby,.Efq. In this houfe lived the celebrated Gilbert Weft, author of " Obfervations on the Refurrection of Chrift." Here he devoted himfelf to learning and piety ; and, " here," fays Dr. Johnfon, " he was very often vifited by Lyttelton and Pitt, who, when they were weary of fac- tion 296 W I L tion and debates, ufed, at Wickham, to find books and quiet, a decent table, and literary converfation." There is at Wickham a walk made by Pitt ; and, what is of more importance, at Wickham Lyttelton received that convic-' tion, that produced his " Diflertation on the Conversion and Apoftlefhip of St. Paul." In a liimmer-honfe, Mr. Weft placed the following infcription, in imitation of Au- fonius " Ad Villam:" Not wrapt in fmoky London's fulphuraus clouds, A,nd not far diftant, ftands my rural cot ; Neither obnoxious to intrud.ng crowds, Nor for the good and friendly too remote. And when too much repofe brings on the fplcen, Or the gay city's idle plcafures cloy; Swift as my changing wifh, I change the fcene, And now the country, now the town enjoy. WICKHAM, EAST, a village in Kent, ten miles from London, to the left of the road to Dover. Here is the handfome feat of J. Jones, Efq. WII3BURY HILL, near Ware, celebrated by Mr. Scott, for the profpect it commands, which, on a fine evening, he obferves, is beautiful beyond defcription. My roving fight Purfues its pleating courfe o'er VVitlbuiy's mount, With that fair crefcent crown'd of lofty elms, Its own peculiar boaft. AMVTELI.I WIDFORD, a village in Herts, near Hoddefdon. In this parifti, on a hill to the weft of the river Lea, are two burrows, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Danes, in memory of fome battle. WILDERNESS, near Sevenoaks t the fmall feat and park of John Jeffries Earl Camdcn. WILLINGALE DOE and WILLINGALE SPAIN, two-parifhes in Eflex, between Chclmsford and Fifield ; of which it is remarkable, that they have each a church, al- moft clofe together, in one Churchyard. WILLOWS, THE, in the hamlet of Bedworth, in the parilh of Windfor, the feat of Henry Townley Ward, Efq. on the fide of the Thames, two miles from Windfor, in the road W I M 2 p 7 road to Maidenhead. It was built by Mr. Kimberley, by whom it is let to Mr. Ward, who has the option to pur- chafe it, at a given price, at any time within his term. The houfe is fmall, and has but little ground attached to it; but it has been very much improved by Mr. Ward. What was formerly a moorim fwamp, or oner beds, now forms a beautiful lawn. At a fmall diftance from this, is Bullock's Hatch, another feat, the property of Mr.Ward, with a fmall farm, which is connected with the pleafure-grounds be- longing to The Willows, by a fubterraneous paffage un- der the high road. WILTON PARK, the elegant feat of Mrs. Dupre, near Beaconsfield in Bucks. It is built of Portland ftone, in a very beautiful fituation. WIMBLEDON, a village in Surry, on a fine heath, feven miles S. W. of London. The manor here, which included that of Mortlake, belonged formerly to the fee of Canterbury, and was exchanged by Abp. Cranmer, for other lands, with Henry VIII. We find it afterward fucceflively, by grant, fettlement, purchafe, or inheritance, the property or relidence of Thomas Cromwell Earl of Eflex, Queen Catharine Parr, Sir Chriftopher Hatton, Sir Thomas Cecil, afterward Earl of Exetfer; of his father, the great Lord Burleigh, when Sir William Cecil; Edward Cecil Vifcount Wimbledon, Queen Henrietta Maria; General Lambert, the famous parliamentary General ; Queen Henrietta Maria, after the Reftoration ; George Digby Earl of Brif- tol; the Duke of Leeds, Sir Theodore Janflen, Bart, and Sarah Duchefs of Marlborough. Her Grace pulled down the old manlion houfe (a magnificent ancient edifice, built in 1588, by Sir Thomas Cecil) and rebuilt it on the old fite, after a defign of the Earl of Pembroke s. She left it'to her grandfon John Spencer, Efq. whofe fon, the late Earl Spencer, formed here one of the fined parks in England. It contains 1,200 acres, and is adorned with fine planta- tions, beautiful declivities, and a fheet of water, containing 50 acres. The eminences in this park prefent many varied and delightful points of view Harrow-on-the-Hill, High- gate, the Metropolis (in which may be diftinguifhed his Lordfhip's houfe in the Green Park), Norwood, and Ep- fom Downs. No lefs than 19 churches may be counted in. tbk 290 WIMBLEDON. this profpeft, exclufive of thofe of London and Weftmin- fter. The houfe was burnt down in 1785; but fome of the offices, that were at a diftance from the houfe, ferve for the occafional refidence of his Lordfhip. On theeaft fide of Wimbledon Common, is a feat, lately the property of M. de Calonne, Comptroller General of the Finances of France, before the Revolution in 1789. The plantations, which contain upward of 70 acres, join Lord Spencer's; and M. de Calonne, when he purchafed this place of Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Efq. laid the foun- dation of a ball-room and two tea-rooms; but he fold the eftate, in September, 1792, for 15,000!. to Earl Gower Sutherland. Near the church, is the elegant villa of William Beau- maris Rufli, Efq. which has likewife fine pleafu re-grounds, commanding fome extenfive views. On the fouth fide of the Common, is a neat villa, the refidence of the Countefs Dowager of Briftol ; and, next to this, is Wimbledon Lodge, a new and elegant houfe, built by Gerard De Vifme, Efq. On the weft fide, are two good houfes, both in the occupation of the Right Hon. Henry Dundas, arid the pretty villa of Abraham Aguelar, Efq. In the lane Jeading to Kingfton is Profpecl Place, the feat of James Meyrick, Efq- adjoining to which is the handfome villa of Samuel Caftell, Efq. Jioth thefe have beautiful pleafure- grounds, commanding delightful views of Epfom Downs and all the country adjacent. There are feveral other good houfes on the Common ; particularly, thofe of John Home Tooke, Efq and Counfellor Bray. The diurch was rebuilt (the chancel excepted) in 1788, and fitted up in the Grecian ftyle. The contributions of the inhabitants, on this occafion, were fo liberal, that the whole was completed, without the rieceflity of recurring to Parliament, or to a brief; aod it ought to be recorded, to his honour, that Mr. Levi, the Jew, then of Profpecl Place, was one of the moft confiderable fubfcribers. At one cor- ner of the churchyard, is a fepulchre of brick and ftone, for the family of Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Efq. The entrance, which is on the outfide of the churchyard, is by a flight of ileps into a funk area, fenced in by iron rails. We then enter an apartment, illuminated by the door, and a fmall window WINDSOR. 299 window on each fide, which are all grated ; and oppofite the door are four rows of horizontal niches, above each other, being 16 niches in the whole. Five of thefe are filled with each a relation of Mr. Hopkins'; and the entrance, of courfe, is clofed up with marble, on which is fnfcribed the name, &c. In the churchyard is the tomb of John Hop- kins, Efq. celebrated by Pope as Vulture Hopkins : he died in 1732. See Page 192, Note. At the S. W. angle of Wimbledon Common, is a circu- lar encampment with a fingle ditch, including a furface of feven acres ; the trench very deep and perfect. Camden is of opinion, that this was the fite of a battle, in 568, between Ceaulin, King of the Weft Saxons, and Ethelbert, King of Kent, in which the latter was defeated. On the fame common, near the village, is a well, the water of which is never known to freeze. At Wimbledon are the copper-mines of Men*". HenckelJ, Mr. Coleman's calico-printing manufactory, and Meffrs. Wall's manufactory of japan ware. WINDSOR, NEW, a borough and market-town, in Berks, 22 miles from London, fituate on the Thames. In the grant of it to the monks of Weftminfter, by Edward the Confeffor, it is called Windlefhora, which fignifies a winding fhore; and hence the derivation of its prefent name. The Abbot of Weftminfter exchanged it with Wil- liam I, for other lands. Edward I, in 1276, made it a free borough, and refided here. Windfor foon became a place of great refort. The corporation confifts of a Mayor and 30 Brethren, 13 of whom are ftyled Benchers,- and 10 of thefe Benchers have the title of Aldermen, out of whom the Mayor is annually chofen. The town is well paved and lighted, an act of parliament, for thatpurpofe, having been obtained in 1 769. The Guildhall is a brick ftructure, with arcades of Portland ftone, erected in 1686. In a niche, is the ffatue of Queen Anne, with an adulatory Latin infcrip- tton, in which the fculptor is told, that " a refemblance of Anna is not to be given by his art; and that if he would ^exhibit her likenefs, he muft attempt a gocUefs" In ano- ther niche, is a flattie of her confort, Prince George of Denmark, with a Latin inscription, in which he is ftyled " A hero, 3OO WINDSOR CASTLE. *' a hero, whom future ages muft revere." The parilh church is a large ancient tfruclure. WINDSOR CASTLE, the moft delightful palace of our Sovereigns, was built by William the Conqueror, on account of its pleafant fituation, and as a place of fecurity. It was enlarged by Henry I. Our fucceeding monarchs refided in the fame caflle, till Edward III, who was born in it, caufed the ancient building to be taken down (except the three towers at the weft end of the lower ward) creeled the prefetit ftately caftle. and St. George's chapel ; inclofed the whole with a rampart of ftone; and inftituted the order of the Garter. The rebuilding of the caftle was princi- pally under the direction of William of Wykeham, after- ward Bp. of Winchefter. Great additions were made to it by-Edward IV, Henry VII, Henry VIII, Elizabeth, and Charles II. The laft entirely changed the face of the up- per court ; enlarged the windows, and made them regular; richly furniflied the royal apartments ; decorated them with paintings; and erected a magazine of arms. He likewife enlarged the terrace walk, made by Queen Eliza- J beth on the north fide of the caftle, and carried another terrace round the eaft and fouth fides of the upper courts. His prefent Majefty alfo has made many fine improve- ments. This caftle is divided into two courts or wards, with a large round tower between them, called the middle ward ; the whole cotaining about twelve acres of land ; and it has many towers and batteries. It is fituated upon a high hill, which rifes by a gentle afcent. On the declivity of this hill is the fine terrace, faced with a rampart of free ftone, 1 870 feet in length. It is one of the nobleft walks in Europe, with refpecl to ftrength and grandeur, and the extenfive profpecl of the Thames and the adjacent country, enriched with a variety of beautiful villas. From the terrace we enter the Little Park, (See Wlndfw Little Park.) adjoining which, and oppofite the fouth- eaft fide of the Caftle, are two neat modern-built manfions; the one named " The Queen's Lodge," which is the royal refi- denee; the other called " The Lower Lodge," for the ac- commodation of the younger branches of the roval family. Both WINDSOR CASTLE. 30 I Both thefe buildings are of brick faced with ftucco, with an embattled coping. The garden is elegant. But to return to the Cattle. The upper court is a fpa- cious quadrangle, containing, on the north ride, the r^yil apartments, and St. George's chape! and hail : on the Couth and eaft fides, are the royal apartments, thofe of the Prince oi Wales, and the great officers of ftate: and, in the centre of the area, is the ftatue of Charles IF, with an infcription, celebrating as the l"ft of Kings, the tyrant in whoCc u-i^n a RinTel ami a Sidney differed ! The Rwnd Tciucr, which forms the weft fide of this up- per court, contains the Governor's apartments. It is built on the highcft part of the mount, nnd there is an afctnt to it by a Might of ftone fteps. This mount is neatly lai.i out in (loping wr.lks round the hill, covered with verdure, and plan cd with fhrubs. The apartments command an extenfive view to London, and into the counties of Mi>, are the houfes and apartments of the Dean and Canons of St. George's Chapel, with thofe of the Minor Canon*, Clerks, and other officers; and, on the fouth and we^t fidts of the outer part, are the houfcs of the Poor Knights of Windfor. In this court are a!fo feverai towers belon^in^ t'/ tii-- officers of the Crown, when th^ Court i$ at vViiul- fiv, and to the officers of the order of the Garter. The royal apartments are on the nor:',i (ide of the uprw'r court, and are termed the Star Building, from a ft.ir a: d garter in the middle of the (Iruclure, en the ou'liJe i cxt the t.-rrr.ce. The entrance into the apartm*nts is fhro from Ovid. In the dome, Phaeton :* r - D d ^02 . WINDSOR CASTLE. frnted definng Apollo to grant him leave to drive the chr ; - riot of the Am. In large compartments, on the flaircafr. are the transformation of Phaeton's fitters into poplars, and of Cycnus into a f\van. In feveral parts of the veiling nt\^ the figns of the zodiac fupported by the winds, with br.f- kets of flowers beautifully difpofcd: at the corners are rh four elements, each expreflld by a variety of figures. Au- rora is reprefented with her r.vmphs in waiting, giving W,A- tcr to her horfes. In feveraJ parts of the fhuraife are the figures of Mufic, Painting, and other fciences. The whole is beautifully difpofed, and heightened with gold ; and from this fhurcafe is a view of the backfhii% painted with the ilory of Meleager and Atalanta. \Ve proceed through the apartments in the following order : The Queen's Guard Chamber, furnifhed with gun*;, piftols, &c. beautifully difpofed in various forms. On the ceiling is Britannia in the perfon of Cat! a ine, confort to Charles II, feated on a globe, bearing the arms of England and Portugal^ with Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, at- tended by deities, making their refpeclive offerings. On the outer part of this group are the figns of the zodiac ; and, in different parts of the ceiling, are Minerva, Mars, Venus, &c. Over the chimney is a portrait of Prince George of Denmark, on horfeback, by Dahl ; with a view of (hipping, by Viy pjleftine, The t'afiions fee! irs potent charrn, And round the mighty matter fwaina." Thefirft of thefe celebrated cartoons is the Sacrifice to Paul and Eavnalws, at Lyflra; the fecond, the Miraculous Draught of Ffthes; the thrrcl, the Healing ot the Cripple at the Beautiful Gate of the Tempb. The Stem's Auditnce Cbsmbe >: ' The ceiling is painted with Britannia in the perfon of Queen Catharine, in z car drawn by fwans to the temple of Virtue, attended by Flora, Ceres, &c. The canopy is of fine Englifh velvet, fet up ty Queen Anne ; and the tapeftrv was made at Coblentz, and prefented to Henry VIII. The pictures arc, V> ''ilium and Frederic Henry, Princes of Orange, Honthorfl ; and the Queen of fames I, Vanfomer. The Ball R.-.sm. On the ceiling Charles II is reprefenteci- giving free-Jem to Fxrcpe, bv the figures ot Perfeus and Au dromeda: o-:; the Oiieid of" Prrft us is ir.fci-ibca Pafius Brl- tawrcas, and o- Andi\):ncc!n is w/itten EH- ro?a L.ibrrala ! . "..-Jed bv the celeftkl deities, offers the o!i\e b'">nrh. The nipeury, which v/as made at Bruf-*. fels, and fet up i>y Ch.-.rks II, reurcfcnts the twelve months of the; ear; andtheioom is adorned with the following pictures : Wiliiam Ear! of Pembroke, Vattfomer; St. John, after Conegio; CounteG of Dorfet, after Vandyck; J)uchefs of Richmond, V^ndvckj a Madonna ; and the Durhelsof HamiHon, Flsnncman. The Sjtfen's Dra-i'.'ing fccm. On the ceiling is painted the Aflembly of the gods and goddefivs. The room is hung with tapertry, repivfenting the feaibns of the year: and adorned with the pictures of Judith and Holofernes, Guido; a Magdalen, Lely; Henrietta- Duchefs of Orleans, in the character of Minerva; Lady Digby, wife of Sir Kenelm Digby, Vandyck; De Bray and his family, by him- feJf; Killegrew and Carevv, Vandyck. In this room is a beautiful clock by Vulliamy: the cafe, and figures of Time dipping Cupid's wings, are in an elegant tafte. D d 2 be 304 WINDSOR CASTLE. 71je Queen's SeJ Chamber. The bed of ftate in this room vas put up by the Queen : the intide, counterpane, and cur- t.uns, are of white f;;tin, embroidered with flowers, in the niofl exquifite taite, by Mrs. Wright and her alliftants. ]t is faid to have coft 14,000!. The ceiling is painted with the ilory of Diana and hndymion ; and the room is adorned v.'i;! the picture of her Majefty at full length, with all her children in miniature, Weft; fix landicapes, Zucarelli; and two I- lower- Pieces. The Re-cm of Beauties, fo named from the original portraits of fourteen of the moft celebrated beauties in the reign of -Charles II ; viz. Mrs. Knot and Mrs. Lawfon, Willing; 1-i.dy Su rule: land, Lady Rochefter, Lady Denham and her idler, and Mr;. Miudleton, Leiy ; Lady B\ ron, Houfeman; Duchffaof Richmond, Ccuntefs of Northumberland, Lady (itammont, Duchefs of Cleveland, and Duchefs of Somer- fer, Lely; and Lady OfTory, Willing; with thirteen por- trairs o 4 . ladies, after Vandyck, by RulTcl. Tic Q.fm's Dnecn Caroline's China Ciofet, filled with a great variety of curious china, elegantly difpofed ; and the whole room finely gilt and ornamented: the pictures are, Prince Arthurj and his two Sifters, Children of Henry VI F, Mabufe; a Woman with a Kitten ; and a Woman Iqueezing Blood out of a Sponge. In this dofet.is alfo a fine amber cabinet, pre- fented to Queen Anne by Dr. Robinfon, Bp. of London. The Kings Cl/ct : the ceiling is painted with the ftory of Jupiter and Leda. The pictures are, Anne Duchefeof York, the Princefs Mary, and Mary Duchefs of York, Lely; a Man's Head, Rsphad ; St. Catharine, Guido; a Woman's Head, Parmegiano ; two Landfcapes, Brueghel ; a Landfcape, Teniers; Thomas third Duke of Norfolk^ Holbein; Holy Family, Vartudcn; Luther, Holbein; ^Eraf- rt)us, Pens; Queen Henrietta,- Vandyck ; the Creation, Brueghel. The King's DreJJing Room. On the ceiling is the ftory of Jupiter and Danae. The pictures are Prince George of Denmark, Knelier; a Magdalen, Dolci; two Views of Windfor . Caftle, Wofterman ; a Man's Head, Da Vinci ^ a Landfcape, Wouvtrmans ; Nero depofiting the aflies of Eritannicus, Le Sueur ; Countefs of Defmond, who-livcd 150 years, wanting a few days, Rembrandt ; a Farrier's Shop, Wouvermans ; a Youth's Head, Holbem ; Charles II, Ruflel ; Herodias* Danghter, Dolci ; an Old Man's Head, Holbein ; James Duke of York, Ruflel; Queen of Charles II, Lely. The Kmg\ Beet Chamber is hung with tapefby, reprefent- ing the ftory of Hero and Leander : the ftate-bed is of rich flowered velvet, made in Spitalfields, by order of Queen Anne ; and, on the ceiling, Charles II is reprefented in the robes of the Garter, under a canopy fupported by Time, Jupiter, and Neptune, with a wreath of laurel over his head; and attended by Europe, Afia, Africa, aud America.- The JD d 3. . paintings 306 WINDSOR CASTLE. paintings are. Charles II, when a boy, in armour, Van- dvck; and Henry Duke of Glouceftcr. The King's Drawing Room. The ceiling is painted with fhjii its 11, riding in a triumphal car, drawn by the horfcs of the Sun, attended by Fame, Peace, and the polite arts; Hercules driving away Rebellion, Sedition, and Jgnorance; Uritannia and Neptune paying obtdicnce to the Monarch as he pafies. In the other parts of the ceiling are painted ^he Labours of Hercules. The pictures are, a converted Chinefe, Kneller ; a Magdalen, Young Palma ; the Roman Charity ; St. John ; St. Stephen ftontd ; St. Peter, St.James, and St. John, Mich. Angelo Caravagc ; Cupid and Pfyrhe, Dahl i Endymion and Diana, Genario; Harveft, BaiFan; wir Saviour before Pilate, Schiavone ; Martha and Mary, from Baflan; a Shepherd and Shepherdcfs, Genario; Da- me, Ditto; and Venus turned Painter, a Copy. Tie King's Public Dining Room. The ceiling reprefents the Banquet of the Gods. The pictures are, Hercules and Omphale, Cephalus and Procris, the Birth of Venus, and Venusand AdoniSjGenario; aNavalTriumphofCharlesIL, Yerrio ; the Marriage of St. Catharine, Danckers; Njmphs and Satyrs, by Rubens and Snyders; Hunting the Wild Boar, Snyders; Still Life, Kalf ; the Taking of Bears, Baf- fan ; a Bohemian Family, by Purdinoni; Divine Love, Baglioni; Lacy, a Comedian, in three Characters, Wright; a bea Piece ; Diana ; a Family Singing by candle-light, Honthorft; a Japan Peacock; 'the Cocoa Tree; Archi- tecture and Figures. The beautiful carving of this cham- ber is by Gibbons. 'Ibf king's Audience Chamber. On the ceiling is repre- fcnted the re-eftabliihment of the Church of England at the Rcftoration, in the characters of England, Scotland, and Ireland, attended by Faith, Hope, Charity, and the cardi- nal virtues; Religion triumphing over Superftition and Hy- pcci ify, who are driven by Cupids from before the church. This room is decorated by the mafterly hand of Weft. The picture, over the door, is the Surrender of Calais. The companion to this is the Entertainment given by Edward to his Prifoneis, in which the brave Eufrace de Ribaumont, who engaged the King, unknown, in fingle combat, during tne iiece of Calais, is introduced. The King makes him- fclf WINDSOR CASTLE. 307 felf known, and is in the aft of nobly rewarding the valour of his enemy with a crown of pearls, and, at the fame in- ilant, granting him his liberty. Under this pi&ure is the third, reprefenting the Paflage of the Somme, near Abbeville, in which Edward is oppofed by Godemar de Faye, General of King Philip. The fourth is the Interview between the King and his victorious fon, the Black Prince, after the battle of Crecy. The monarch is tenderly embracing his fon, who looks with attention on the (lain King of Bohemia, lying at his feet. The conduct of this monarch (who was almoft blind with age) and of his noble attendants, was truly heroic. They agreed, to prevent being feparated, to tie their horff s' bri- dles together, and to conquer or die; and, in this fituation, the attendants were found, the next morning, near the body of their brave old King. The fifth is the victory of Poitiers, in which the Black Prince is reprefented receiving as captives the French King John, and his youngeft fon Philip. The fixth is the firft Installation of the Garter, in St. George's Chapel. The Bps. of Winrhefter and Salifbury are performing the fervice, and the King, Queen, and Knights, kneeling round the altar. In the gallery appear the King's children, the captive King of Scotland, the Bp. of St. Andrews, French prifoners, and fpeftators. In the fore ground are two of the Poor Knights of Windfor, kneeling; behind them two Foreign Ambafladors; and, behind thefe, is the portrait of Mr. Weft, himfelf, &c. The feventh, over the other door, is the Battle of Nevil's Crofs, near Durham, where Queen Philippa, in the abfence of the King, takes the command of the ai my, and defeats, and makes prifoner, David King of Scotland. Over the chimney is the Hiftory of St. George. The ingenious poet, already quoted, after a fine eulogy of Raphael, and a beautiful compliment to his Majefty, and to the late Sir JoChua Reynolds, introduces the panegyric of Mr. Weft, and of thefe paintings : Artift fupreme ! by nature taught TD clo'.hc with life each glowing thought, Too footi. the Dcftin >!> cunfpire To quench thy pencil's glorious fire > To* 308 WINDSOR CASTLE. Too form the fou! that w (ere death withdrew Ti:c vti! that d*ik- ns mortal v.ew) Hcav't. bade thy peietra'ivi- eye Amid her dazzii,.g cou>t, delay ; Thence bade thee trace the tauitlefs line r Tli' expveflive grace,, the (.hafte defign, The mkn that Jove and awe ii>ii"[n;-es, And wak'-i Devotion** pureft rires. Thy rnecn'ry ftill, to genius clear, Biitait.'s cnli, ht^n'd fjns reve;ej And grateful hai th^ monarch's name, Vi'h f.' lib'nl c^ie thy Jahours cl^im : To heights Jmpciv'ious heretofore \Vho trills in)jn.-.rr.il Sc.ence foar j Far feen in venerable pride, Who(c ic^ra: K ;ir, ntpkndujg wide Its portals, at his high beheir, Hails ev'ry Art an hocoui'a gaefl - T Beneath whofe mild, aufpicious rciga The Gt:i'us of old Gn-ece again, AWakcn'd from his deep re;ofe, In Reynolds' living canvafe glows, Whsve grace and eneigy divine Wi h be uty f. u!y b!e..t combine ; And b:aids his d ;. h.cfs bays around The Br'uifh Raffie.le's brows renowa'd. Lo ! b* 1 lit d.iring hnd portray 'd, The fanguinaty fcene difplay'd, . Where martial peers, in glitt'ring mail. Unfold their pennons to the gale 5 O'er Normandy's difmantled plains Where iron-clad Contention reigns j And Hayock wait:, (his tiefles wt With gorr) thy no.i, Plantagenet? Waffd from Albion's I fie afar, Wh- re wake her fons the ftorm of war J V/h:re ; raviflt'd from the parent-ftcrri, To Rratc the vidtor's diadent-, Thy lilies, France, no more affume The fplcndour of their wonted bloom, No moie with peerlefs luftre glow, But foil wkh blood their native fnow. This is, unrueftionably, fine poetry and exqui/tte paint- in"-; but the philoibph.tr caa derive no pleafure from the contemplation. WINDSOR CASTLE. 309 contemplation of victories, obtained by enforcing the moft unjuft and impolitic pretenfions; which perpetuated, tor ages, the moft fataJ antipathy between two neighbouring nations; and which, had their object been attained, might have rendered this iflanci a province of France. The loft of Calais, in the reign of Queen Mary, was a far happier event than the glorious, but mifchievous victories of Crecy, Poitiers, and Agir.court. Tbi King's Prcfence Chamber is hung with tapeftry, con- taining the Hiftory of Queen Athaliah. On the ceiling, Mercury is reprefented with an originnl portrait of Charles II, which he (hews to the four quarters of the world, intro- duced by Neptune; F'ame declaring the glory of that Prince, and Time driving away Rebellion, Sedition, &c. Over the canopy is Juftice, (hewing the arms of Britain to Thames and the river nymphs. At the lower end is Venus in a marine car, drawn by tritons and fea- nymphs. The paint- ings are, Duns Scotus, Spagnolet ; Peter I, of Ruflia, Knel- ler ; Prometheus, Young Palma ; and the other four Car- toons of Raphael. The firft is the Death of Ananias; the fecond, St. Paul preaching to the Athenians; the third, Chrift delivering the JCeys to Peter; the fourth, Eh/mas, the Sorcerer, ftrnck with Blindnefs. Thefe ineftimable cartoons had remained m Flanders, from the time that Pope Leo X fent them thither to be co- pied in tapcftry ; the money for the tapeftry having never been paid. They were purchafed by Charles I, at the re- commendation of Rubens. At the fale of the royal pic- tures, in 165 4, they were purdialed, for 300!. by Cromwell, againft whom no one would bid. He pawned them to the Dutch court for upward of 50,000!; and, after tke revo- lution, King William brought them again to. England, and built a gallery for their reception in Hampton Court. The King's Guard Chamber^ a noble room, in which are thoufaiuls of pike*, piftols, guns, bayonets, &c. dilpofed in colonnades, pillars, and other devices, by Mr, Harris, then mafter-gunner of this cattle; the perfon who invented this beautiful arrangement of arms, and placed thole in the ar- mory in the Tower of London. The ceiling is finely painted in water colours: in one circle is Mars and Mi- nerva, and ia the other Peace and Plenty. Jn the dome is 310 WINDSOR CASTLE. alfo a reprefentation of Mars. . The pictures are, Charles XI of Sweden, on horfeback, Wyck ; and eight paintings of battles and fieges, Rugendas. At an inilallanon, the Knights of the Garter dine here in great Irate, in the ab- fenre of the Sbverrign. St. George's Hall is let apart to the honour of the Order of the Garter, and is one of the noblelt rooms in Europe. In the ceiling, Charles II is reprefentcd in the habit of the Order, attended by England, Scotland, and Ireland ; Reli- gion and Plenty hold the crown over his nead ; Mars and Mercury, with the emblems of war and peace, ftand on each fide. Regal Government is upheld by Religion and .Eter- nity, with Juftice attended by Fortitude, Temperance, and Prudence, beating down Rebellion and Faction. Toward the throne is reprefented, in an oftagon, St. George's rrofs encircled with the Garter, within a glory fuppoi ted by Cu- pids, with the motto, Honifiit qsi maly penfe; the Mufes at- tending in full concert. On the back of the throne, is a large drapery, on which is painted St. George and the dragon, as large as the life; anti on the Tower border of the drapery is infcribed fe- niendo rcjiitult rem, in allufion to. William III, who is painted in the habit of the Order, fitting under a royal- canopy, by Kneller. To the throne is an afcent of five marble ftcps, to which the painter has added five more, done with fuch perfection as- to deceive the fight. This noblt room is 108 feet long; and the whole nortH fide is taken up with the triumph of Edward the Black Prince, after the manner of the Romans. At the upper part of the hall is Edward III, the founder of the Order, fented on a throne, receiving the Kings of France and Scotland prifoners; the Black Prince is fcated in the mid- dle of the proceffion, crowned with laurel, and carried by flaves, preceded by captives, and attended bv the emblems of Victory. Liberty, and other infignia of the Romans, with the banners of France and Scotland difplaytd. The pain- ter has indulged his fancy, by c.lofing.the proceffion with th2 fiction of the Coumd's of Salifbury, in tlv perfon of a fine lady making garlands for the Prince, and the repre- fentation of the Merry Wives of Wiudfor. In this laft, to WINDSOR CASTLE. 311 he has humorouuy introduced himfeif in a black hood and fcarlet cloak. At the lower end of the hall is a noble mufic-gallery, fupported by flaves larger than the life, iu proper atti- tudes, faid to reprefent a father and his three ions, taken prifoners by the Black Prince. Over this gallery, on the lower compartment of the ceiling, is the collar of the Or- der of the Garter fully difplayed. The painting of this room was by Verrio. St. George's, or the King's Chapel. On the ceiling is re- prcfented the Afcenfion ; and the altarpiece is adorned \vithapaintingoftheLaftSupper. On the north (ide of the chapel is the reprefentation of the Refurreclion of La- /arus, and other miracles, by Verrio ; and, in a group of fpec"lators, the painter has introduced his own effigy, with tlnofe of Sir Godfrey Kneller, and Mr. Cooper, who af- fifted him in thefe paintings. Theeaft end of the chapel is taken up with the clofets belonging to his Majeity and the Royal Family. The carved work is done by Gibbons, in lime-tree. From this chapel we are. conducted to the Queen's Guard Chamber, the firft room we entered; for this is the laft of the itate apartments at prefent fhewn to the public, the others being only opened when the court refides at Wind- for. They confift of many beautiful chambers, adorned with paintings by the greateft matters. In palling hence, we look into the inner or horn court, fo called from a pair of flag's horns of a very extraordinary fize, taken in the foreft, and fet up in that court, which is painted in bronze and ftone colour. On one (ide is i\ pre- fented a Roman battle, and on the oppofite fide a feu-fight, with the images of Jupiter, Neptune, Mercury, and Pallas; and in the gallery is a reprefentation of David playing be- fore the ark. From tiiis court a flight of ftone fteps leads to the King's Guard Chamber ; and, in the cavity under thefe fteps, and fronting this court, is a figure of Hercules alfo in a ftone colour. On a dome over the fteps is painted the Battle of the Gods; and, on the fides of the ftaircafe, is a reprefen- tation of the Four Ages of the World, and two Battles of the Greeks and Romans in frefco. St. ^12 WINDSOR CASTLE. Sf. George's Chapel, or the Collegiate Church, already men- tioned as fituate in the middle of the lower court of the CafHe, miift not be confounded with St. George's^ or the King's Chapel, in the Caftle. It is a beautiful ftruciure, in the pureft ftyle of Gothic architecture, and was flrfl erecl- ed, by Edward III, in 1377, for the honour of the Order of the ( Jartcr. But however noble the firft defign, Ed- ward IV not finding it entirely completed, defigned and undertook the prefent ftruclure. The work was carried on by Henry VII, whofinifhed the body of the chapel ; and Sir Reginald Bray, K. G. afiifted in oramenting the chapel and completing the roof. The architecture of the infide has ever been efteemed for its great beauty ; and, in parti- cular, the ftone roof is reckoned an excellent piece of workmanfhip. It is an ellipfis fupported by Gothic pillars, whofe ribs and groins fuftain the whole roof, every part of which has fome different device well finifhed, as the arms of feveral of our kings, great families, &c. On each fide of the choir, are the ftalls of the Sovereign and Knights of the Garter, with the helmet, mantling, creft, and fword of each Knight, fct up over his ftali, on a canopy of an- cient carving curioufly wrought. Over the canopy is af- fixed the banner of each Knight blazoned on filk, and on the back of the ftalls are the titles of the Knights, with their arms neatly engraved and blazoned on copper. The Sovereign's ftall, on the right hand of the entrance into the choir, is diftinguifhed by rich ornaments. The Prince's ftall is on the left, and has no diftincHon from thofe of the reft of the Knights; the whole fociety, according to the ftatutes of the inftitution, being companions, equal in ho- nour and power. In a vault under this choir are interred Henry VIII, his Queen Jane Seymour, Charles I, and a daughter of Queen Anne. In the S. aille, nenr the door of the choir, is buried Henry VI ; and Edward I V is interred in the N. aiile. L'r :ofrer (trains il'-fnteii H^nry mourn, .' ni ;>ilms eteri'i flour (h rour-d his urn. Here u'- r tr.e rtMiivv-king the marble u-eepf, And, tafi be.ld-.- hiiji^oacefeai d Edward fleeps. V.'o.i'K pot ih' cxtotded AlVion couM contain, From eld Belerium to thv northern main, The WINDSOR CASTLE. 313 The grave unites; where ev'n the Great find reft, And blended lie th' oppreflbr and th' oppreft. Pore. In 1 789, the workmen employed in repairing the church, difcovered the vault of King Edward. The body, inclofed in a leaden and wooden coffin, meafuring fix feet three inches in length, appeared reduced to a fkeleton. The bottom of the coffin was covered with a muddy liquor, about three inches deep, of a ftrong faline tafle. Near this was a wooden coffin, fuppofed to have contained the body of his Queen, who died three years after the King, in confinement, at Bermondfey Abbey, and is fuppofed to have been fecretly interred. On the fides of this vault were infcribed, in characters refembiing thofe of the times, " Edward IV," with fome names, probably thofe of the workmen employed at the funeral. The tomb of this king is fronted with touchftone : over it is a beautiful monument of fteel, faid to have been the work of Quintin Matfys. There are feveral chapels in this church, in which are the monuments of many illuftrious perforis; particularly, of Edward Earl of Lincoln, a renowned naval warrior; George Manners Lord Roos, and Anne, his confort, niece of Edward IV ; Anne Duchefs of Exeter, mother of that lady, and fiftcr to the King ; Sir Reginald Bray, before- mentioned; and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who married the fifter of King Henry Vlll. This church was completely repaired and beautified, in 1790. The altar now confifts of the moft curious and de- licate workmanfhip, in various carved devices, furrounding Weft's pwture of the Laft Supper. Over this altar is a no- ble painted window. The fubjeft is the Refurrcclion ; and it is divided into three compartments. In the centre is our Saviour afcending from the fepulchre, preceded by the Angel, above whom, in the clouds, are Cherubims and Seraphims, and among thefe rs a portrait of their Majefties' fon, Oc"tavun. In the front ground are the Roman fol- diers, thrown into various pofturcs with terror and aflo- ni, will find an ample account of it in Mr. Gilpin's "Remarks on Foreft Scenery." It is thus celebrated by Shakfpeare : There is an old tale goes, that Herne, the hunter, Someflmc a keeper here in Windfor Foreft, Doih all the winter-time, at ftill midnight, Walk round about an oak, with great ragg'd horns ; And there he blafts the tiee, and takes the cattle, And makes milch- kine yield blood, and (hakes a chairfj la a rnoft hideous and dreadful manner. Merry W;i/ ofVfindfor, A8 IV. Sc. 4. Formerly, numerous herds of deer were kept in* this park; but iluce the year 1785, it has been flocked with fhcep and cattle of various denominations; yet there are ftill {brae deer .remaining, and plenty of hares, which fre- quently afford his Majefty the diverfion of courfing. WINDSOR GREAT PARK, an extenfive park, ad- joining to the fouth fide of the town of Windfor. A no- ble road, near three miles in length, called the Long Walk, and adorned, on each fide, with a double plantation of ftately trees, lends to the fummit of a delightful hill, near the Ranger's Lodge, whence there is a very luxuriant pro- fpecl of the Caftle, Eton College, and the country beyond. This park poflefles a circuit of 14 miles; and, fince the death of the late Henry Frederick Duke of Cumberland, his Majefty has taken it under his own immediate care, and amufes liimfelf in giving it every advantage which the united efforts of good hufbandry, and landfcape improve- ment, can beftow. It confifts of near 4000 acres, beauti- fully WINDSOR FOREST. fully diverfified in hill and dale; inanv parts of it nobly planted with venerable bodies of wood, varied with wild and romantic fcenery. While this extent of domain re- mained in the hands of a Ranger, he employed it as a tem- porary advantage, and never thonght of beftowing upon it any permanent improvement: but his Majefty having taken, that office upon himfelf, every rational experiment which can add beauty, or produce advantage, is brought forward; and perfons of the firft eminence and (kill are employed in the execution of a magnificent plan of embel- lifhment in the park; as well as to hold forth an example of improved hufbandry to the imitation of the furrounding country. The principal outlines of this plan embrace a vaft compafs of draining, which is completed, without de- formity, after the mode adopted in Effex; an extenfive fcene of planting upon the high grounds and eminences, where a grandeur of effect can be produced; a delicate opening of the bottom parts, in order to throw the vales into beautihii favannas ; a felection of the fine fylvan parts into harbours for game; with fheep-walks for large flocks; and the formation of two contrafted farms at the oppofite ends of the park. The one, from the lightnefe of the foil, is eftabliihed on the Norfolk fyftem of hufbandry, under a rotation of fix-courfe cropping, with ail the advantages of turnip ruhivation; and the other, which confifts of a loamy foil, is carried on in due conformity to the agricultural practice of Flanders, where the courfe of hufbandry almoft invariably confifts of an alternate crop for man and bead ; one of the moft productive difpofitions to which land can be applied. WINDSOR FOREST, a foreft, which, according to Roque, forms a circuit of 56 miles, abounding with deer and game; and it is a magnificent appendage to Wirvdfor Caftle. It was originally formed and preferved for the ex- ercifes of the chafe, by our r.ncienr fovereigns, and is ftill employed in thofe recreations by his prefent Majefty. .This extenfive ttact of land contains one market- town, and many plcafant villages. The town, named Okingham, or Wokin;;ham, is nine miles from Windfor. Among the Tillages arc Eaft Hamftcd, the birthplace of Fen ton, the poer, celebrated as a valuable coadjutor of Pope's, in nis li c tranQation 318 w o B translation of Homer. Near this, is a Roman camp, call- ed Caefar's Camp. Eaft of this is Sunning Hill, noted for its mineral waters. But the glory of Windfor Foreft is Binfield, near Okingham, where Pope fpent his youthful days, and where he compofed his Windfor ForeiT. On one of the trees, in a wood, in this parifh, is cut this in- fcription : . , HERE POPE SUNG. Although much of the foil in Windfor Foreft is barren and uncultivated, it is finely diverfified with hills, vales, and woods, interfperfed with charming feats and elegant villas; and it may be truly faid to poflfefs thofe fylvait beauties which invited Pope to make it the fubjeft of his youthful mufe. Sec St. Leonard's Hill, New Lodge, and Sophia Farm. WINDSOR, OLD, a village on the Thames, between New Windfor and Egham, adorned with feveral handfome villas; particularly, Lord Walfingham's, at the foot of Prieft's Hill; The White Houfe, the property of William Pitt, Efq. of Eton, and refidence of Rice James, Efq ; Pel- ling Place, the feat of James Bonnell, Efq ; the elegant houfe and grounds of Mrs. Hammerfley; Crawley Houfe, the feat of Henry Ifherwood, Efq ;-,and Clay Hall, the neat cottage of Mrs. Keppel, and refidence of Sir Henry W. Dafhvvood, Bart. See Beaumont Lodge and Grove Houfe. WO BURN FARM, the feat and beautifully ornamented farm of the Hon. Mr. Petre, near Weybridge in Surry, is in. the occupation of Lord Loughborough. It contains i 50 acres, of which 35 are adorned to the higheft degree; of the reft, two thirds are in pafture, and the remainder in tillage. The decorations are communicated, however, to every part; for they are difpofed along the fides of a walk, which, with its appendages, forms a broad belt round the grazing grounds, and is continued, though on a more contracted fcale, through the arable. This walk is properly a garden; all within it is a farm. Thefe enchanting fcenes were form- ed by the late Philip Southcote, Efq. and exhibit a beauti- ful fpecimen of tfntfcrme ornee, of which he was .he intro- ducer, or rather inventor ; and him, therefore, the Poeti- cal Preceptor of Englifh Gardening thus apoftrophizes : On woo 3'9 On thee too, Sonthcote, {hall the Mufe beftovr No vulgar praife ; for thou to humbleft things Couldft give ennobling beauties : deckM by thee, The fimple farm eclips'd the garden's pride, Ev'n as the virgin blufh of innocence The harlotry of art. MASON. WOODCOTE, now only a fmgle farm-houfe, in the parifh of Beddington, is fuppofed to have been a Roman , ftation, from many remains of antiquity found here. Cam- den, and other antiquaries, contend, that it was the city of Noviomagus, mentioned by Ptolemy ; which others main- tain to have been in Kent. WOODFORD, a village, eight miles from London, in the road to Epping, has fome agreeable villas on each fide of the road, which command fine profpecls over a beautiful country. The moft worthy of notice are, Woodford Hall, clofe to the church, the feat of John Goddard, Efq; Pro- fpeet Houfe, the property of J. Proclor, Efq; and the houfes of Job Mathew, and Robert Prefton, Efqrs. Higham Hall, the elegant feat, late of Governor Hornby, but now of John Harman, Efq. is fituated between Woodford Hall and Profpeft Houfe, but is in the parifh of Walthamftow. A mineral fpring, which rifes in the foreft, at a little dif- tance from the Horfe and Groom, was formerly in great repute, and much company reforted to drink the waters, at a houfe of public entertainment called Woodford Wells; but the waters have long loft their reputation ; and the houfe, converted into a private one, is now the property of Henry Eggers, Efq. In the churchyard is an elegant monument to the me- mory of fome of the family of Sir Edmundfbury Godfrey, whofe murder excited fuch agitation in the reign of Charles II, (See Primrofe Hill) and of whom it ought to be record- ed, that in the great prague, in 1665, he endangered his life, for the good of his fellow-citizens, by remaining in London, and faithfully difcharging his duty as a magiftrate. This monument was defigned by Sir Robert Taylor. It is a Corinthian column : the fhaft, of coloured marble, was brought from Italy : the bafe and capital arc of white mar- ble ; and the whole coft 1500!. In the churchyard is a yew-tree, fuppofed to be the fined in England. See Hearts. WOODFORD. 320 W O R > WOODFORD-BRIDGE, a village in the fame parifli, nine miles from London, in the road to Chipping Ongar, is fituated on an eminence, forming a pichucfque appear- ance. i\ear the bridge, over the Roding, is a pump of ex- cellent water, brought hither, in 1776, at a great expence, by the proprietor of the eftatt, for the accommodation of the poor inhabitants; and not'far from this is a manufac- tory -of artifkiaj ftone. In this village is Ray Houfe, the feat of Sir Jame? Wright, Hart, and a pretty villa, built by Caefar Corfellis, Efq. WOODLAND HOUSE, the viila of John Julius An. gerftein, Efq. on the northfide of Bludkheath, toward Charlton. It is faced with a beautiful fturco. The front, which has a handfome portico, is enriched by a niche on each fide, containing elegant ftatues, reprefenting thu yojng. Apollo and the Dancing Fawn. Immediately over each niche is a circular baflb-relievo, with a femicircular window in the centre. The gardens communi