GIFT OF 
 
 THOMA* RlTUiF.RFORD BACON 
 
HOW TO COOK WELL 
 
 BY 
 
 J. ROSALIE BENTON 
 
 With baked and boiled, and stewed and toasted. 
 And fried and broiled, and smoked and roasted, 
 We treat the town/* 
 
 SALMAGUNDI. 
 
 BOSTON 
 D. LOTHROP AND COMPANY 
 
 FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS 
 
. 
 
 Copyright, 1886, 
 
 by 
 D. LOTHROP & COMPANY. 
 
TO 
 MY LITTLK DAUGHTER 
 
 MARGARET 
 
 THIS BOOK 18 LOVINGLY 
 DEDICATED 
 
 267912 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IN the following collection of receipts some are entirely 
 original ; many are contributed by friends ; others are well- 
 known favorites which have stood the test of time ; and 
 the rest are similar to those found in trustworthy cook 
 books, but altered after trial, according to taste. To those 
 who have generously given their choice receipts to add 
 to the attractions of "I low to Cook Well," public ac- 
 knowledgment and thanks are here rendered. 
 
 The writer of this book has aimed not merely to give a 
 collection of receipts, but to teach cooking, and also, by 
 arranging departments for Breakfast, Luncheon, Dinner 
 and Tea, to present suggestions to those housekeepers who 
 find themselves taxed to make variety in the different 
 meals. The style of cooking here given is for the most 
 part suited to people of moderate means, and especial 
 attention has been paid to showing how to use in a tempt- 
 ing manner remnants from a former meal. The order of 
 mixing and the time for cooking has been given with 
 nearly every receipt, and after many of them the size of 
 the family for which they are intended is stated. If the 
 directions given in the book are carefully followed, the 
 author has no fears for those who learn to cook by its aid, 
 provided they have brains ! 
 
 J^ 3 Study the General Directions, and read carefully 
 the "Remarks" at the head of whatever you undertake to 
 cook. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Explanatory Notes . 
 General Directions . 
 
 PAGB. 
 
 7 
 9 
 
 BREAKFAST .... 15 
 
 Cereals 16 
 
 Eggs 18 
 
 Meats for Breakfast . . 27 
 
 Fish " " . . 35 
 
 Miscellaneous Dishes . . 37 
 
 Vegetables for Breakfast 30 
 
 Breakfast and Tea Cakes . 45 
 
 Griddle Cakes, etc. . . . 56 
 
 LUNCHEON 64 
 
 Vegetables for Luncheon . 6G 
 
 Miscellaneous Dishes . . 72 
 
 Pressed Meats .... 78 
 
 Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc. 82 
 
 Pates 91 
 
 Fritters 93 
 
 DINNER 100 
 
 Soup 100 
 
 Fish . . ^' . , t . . 117 
 
 Shell Fish 131 
 
 Salads . 141 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Stuffing, Gravy, Sauces, 
 
 etc 147 
 
 Poultry, Game, etc. . . . 157 
 
 Meats 171 
 
 Stews 183 
 
 Meat Pies 188 
 
 Vegetables 190 
 
 DESSERTS 209 
 
 Pies 209 
 
 Puddings 226 
 
 Pudding Sauces .... 248 
 
 Delicacies for Dessert . 252 
 
 Ice Cream, etc 278 
 
 Candy 281 
 
 TEA 290 
 
 Bread 291 
 
 Yeast 313 
 
 Cake 316 
 
 Drinks ....*.. 348 
 
 Stewed and Baked Fruits, 355 
 
 Preserves and Jellies . . 359 
 
 Catsups and Pickles . . 375 
 
 For the Sick 383 
 
 Miscellaneous . . , 396 
 
EXPLANATORY NOTES. 
 
 THE measurements given in this book fire exact^ no 
 deviation from them being allowed for. When the 
 expression, one cupful or one teaspoon ful, is used, it means 
 that the cup or spoon is to be filled even full. This is 
 particularly to be remembered in connection with soda, 
 for if the spoon is at all hea]>ed the rank taste and smell 
 of the soda will be sure to spoil what otherwise might have 
 been very good. In measuring soda the lumps should 
 first be powdered ; then take up a heaping spoonful, and 
 with the finger laid across the spoon in such a way as to 
 touch both sides, carefully remove all that is superfluous, 
 leaving a smooth, even teaspoonful. Soda must always, 
 unless otherwise specified, be dissolved in a little wann 
 water before mixing it with other compounds. 
 
 Cream of tartar, on the contrary, should be put in dry 
 and mixed with the flour. I have therefore put it next 
 to flour in the lists of ingredients, and connected the two 
 by a parenthesis to show that they go together. Where 
 the quantity of flour is not mentioned definitely, mix the 
 cream of tartar with a few spoonfuls of flour. Baking 
 powder should be mixed in the same way. That used in 
 this book is the Koyal. 
 
 The only exception to the rule of exact measurements 
 is in the case of butter. A cupful of butter should not be 
 packed, but the butter should be put in loosely, in pieces. 
 
 The cup used for measuring is always "the ordinary- 
 sized kitchen coffee-cup, holding just half a pint. 
 
 vii 
 
viii Explanatory Notes. 
 
 Where a parenthesis occurs in a list, it shows that the 
 ingredients connected by it are to be mixed together be- 
 fore adding anything else. 
 
 Where no directions are given for the order of mixing, 
 no special order is necessary. In some places the direc- 
 tions may seem needlessly minute, but they are not really 
 so. It is only by attending carefully to apparent trifles 
 that one can become a good cook. 
 
 Wherever quotations-marks are used about a receipt or 
 process in cooking, the reader should refer to the direc- 
 tions for same as contained in this book. 
 
 TABLE OF APPROXIMATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 1 qt. sifted flour, about . . . . 1 Ib. 
 1 qt. pulverized sugar . . 1 Ib. 7 oz. 
 1 qt. granulated sugar . . 1 Ib. 9 oz. 
 1 pt. closely packed butter 1 Ib. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul butter, about . 1 oz. 
 
 10 eggs 1 Ib. 
 
 1 quart cornmeal . . . . 1 Ib. 2 oz. 
 4 cups sifted flour 1 Ib. 
 
 RISING POWDER PROPORTIONS. 
 
 1 quart flour needs 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 
 
 1 quart flour needs 1 teaspoonful soda and 2 of cream tartar 
 
 1 cup sour milk needs i teaspoonful soda. 
 
 TABLES OP WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 Avoirdupois Weight. 
 
 16 ounces make one pound. I 4 quarters make one hundredweight. 
 
 25 pounds make one quarter. | 20 hundredweight make one ton. 
 
 Liquid Measure. 
 4 gills make 1 pint. 2 pints make 1 quart. 4 quarts make 1 gallon. 
 
 Dry Measure. 
 
 2 pints make 1 quart. 8 quarts make 1 peck. 4 pecks make 1 bushel. 
 6 quarts dry measure are nearly equal to 7 quarts liquid. 
 1 coffee-cup equals J pint, 
 i a coffee-cup equals 1 gill. 
 10 flat tablespoon fuls equal 1 cupful. 
 4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful. 
 
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 How to Boil. 
 
 ALLOW plenty of water, unless the directions for some 
 exceptional thing are given to the contrary. Do not al- 
 low the water to boil down enough to expose to the air 
 what you are cooking. If it should, fill up the j>ot grad- 
 ually (so as not to check the boiling) with boiling water 
 from the tea-kettle. Almost everything is better for be- 
 ing boiled slowly (meat must be, to be tender), and the 
 pot should be kept covered. Boiling must be continuous ; 
 many things are ruined if the process stops even for a few 
 minutes. This is especially the case with meat and pud- 
 dings. 
 
 How to Parboil. 
 
 This is to boil anything till only half done. 
 
 How to Boil in Lard. 
 
 (The word fry is often applied to this process, but 
 to fry is something quite different, as will be seen later.) 
 
 Put into a rather deep kettle two or three pounds of 
 lard. There should be enough to completely cover the 
 article to be cooked. This ought not to be put in till the 
 heat of the lard has been tested. Let it simmer (not boil 
 fast), then throw in a bit of bread. If it browns directly, 
 the fat is hot enough. If it burns, set the kettle on the 
 back of the stove where the contents will cool down. If 
 there is any danger of burning what you are cooking, throw 
 into the fat a slice of raw potato. 
 
Cook Well. 
 
 It is a good plan to have ready a large piece of soft, 
 thick paper on which to lay for a moment the potatoes, 
 or whatever you have cooked, as soon as taken out of the 
 lard ; it will absorb any superfluous grease though if one 
 takes pains to have the lard hot enough, the articles 
 cooked in it will not be very greasy. 
 
 This is a favorite way of cooking, and it is not extrava- 
 gant if properly attended to. When you have finished 
 using it, let the lard stand a few minutes, without boiling, 
 to settle ; then strain it while still hot into a clean jar. 
 When cold, cover tight, and set in a cold place. It can 
 be used several times over for the same thing, and in 
 fact other things may be cooked in it, unless it has been 
 used for fish, or it has a strong, decided flavor from what 
 has been boiled in it before. 
 
 Beef suet tried out (see page 11) and salted, is as good 
 as lard for this purpose, and cheaper. 
 
 How to Pry. 
 
 This is a process but little understood, though used ex- 
 tensively by those who know least about cooking. The 
 most necessary point is the one they will not attend to, 
 and that is, to have the frying-pan and the grease hot 
 when the thing to be fried is put in. Then, it will not be 
 greasy. Use only enough fat to keep from burning what- 
 ever is cooked in it. 
 
 Butter, beef-dripping, lard and salt pork are all used 
 for frying. The former does not give so rich a brown as 
 the others, and is, beside, too costly for ordinary use. 
 Beef-dripping is cheaper than lard, and just as good, if 
 not better. Salt pork should be cut in rather thin slices, 
 and taken out when the grease is extracted from it, before 
 putting in what you wish to fry. Salt Pork is cheap, and 
 gives a delicious flavor, peculiarly suitable to certain 
 things, such as fish-balls. When you fry in it, do not use 
 much salt in seasoning. 
 
General Directions. 11 
 
 How to Try out Fat or Suet. 
 
 Save all the fat from beef, raw or cooked. Cut it in 
 small pieces. Put it in a frying-pan with but just enough 
 water to keep it from burning. Put it over a slow fire ; 
 stir occasionally and let it all melt. Then simmer about 
 five minutes. Throw in two or three slices of raw potato 
 to clear it, and leave it five minutes more. Set it off the 
 fire to settle ; then strain it into jars. When cold, cover 
 tight, and set in a cold place. It will keep a long time if 
 covered again every time you dip from it. 
 
 ISeef suet chopped and freed from fibre, may be prepared 
 in the same way. Some persons buy it for the purpose. 
 
 It is both cheaper and more wholesome than lard. 
 
 To Chop Suet. 
 
 Cut it apart ; free it from strings, and scatter flour over 
 it. Then chop very fine. The flour will prevent the 
 pieces from adhering together. 
 
 To Thicken with Flour. 
 
 Rub a little flour to a smooth paste with enough cold 
 water (or milk) to cover it. Pour it when smooth into 
 the soup, or whatever you wish to thicken, when that is 
 boiling. If these rules are not attended to the flour will 
 lump. 
 
 Corn starch should be treated in the same way. 
 
 A little flour may be dredged into boiling liquor, with- 
 out lumping, if sprinkled in slowly while stirring fast. 
 
 If butter is to be added with the flour, it need not be 
 moistened. Simply rub the flour and butter together 
 and stir in. A better way, though more troublesome, is 
 
 To Make a Roux. 
 
 Put some butter in a pan. When it bubbles, sprinkle 
 in dry flour. Stir briskly and constantly till the flour is 
 
12 How to Cook Well. 
 
 cooked, but do not let it brown (unless you want to color 
 what you are cooking). Pour a little of the hot sauce 
 on it, and mix well before stirring in to the whole. 
 
 How to Egg-and-Crumb. 
 
 Croquettes and other things' to be boiled in lard, or fried, 
 are often prepared thus : 
 
 Roll fine stale crackers or bread-crumbs. Then sift 
 them on to a large plate. In another large plate have 
 one or two eggs, beaten slightly and seasoned with a little 
 pepper and salt (unless they are to be used for sweet- 
 dishes) ; some persons add also one tablespoonful of cream 
 or milk to each egg. 
 
 Dip each croquette when ready, first into the crumbs, 
 and roll it in them till every side is covered. Then roll it 
 in the eggs, and then in the crumbs again. 
 
 N. B. If you have yolks or whites of eggs left from 
 making cake, use them for egg-and-crumbing. They will 
 do just as well as whole eggs. 
 
 KJ 
 
 How to Broil. 
 
 Heat and grease a gridiron. Never cook anything on a 
 cold gridiron. Lay on the steak (or whatever it is) and 
 cover with an inverted pan to keep in the heat and flavor. 
 Turn often while cooking, but do not stick a fork into 
 meat, or the juices will escape. Bo not add seasoning till 
 you dish it. 
 
 Fish and spring chicken should be dredged with flour 
 before being placed on the gridiron. Put them with the 
 inside toward the fire, first. 
 
 Small things require to be cooked quickly over a clear, 
 hot fire. Large thick things (unless you wish them rare 
 inside, like beefsteak) should have a moderate heat at 
 first, and the heat should be increased towards the last. 
 
General Directions. 13 
 
 If you cannot manage this, put the gridiron at first a good 
 distance from the fire, and afterwards move it nearer. 
 
 To Blanch Almonds. 
 
 Shell the nuts, pour boiling water over them and let 
 them stand a few minutes. Then remove the skins, 
 which will slip off easily. Dry them in a towel. 
 
 To Wash Currants. 
 
 Zante currants are very dirty things. Put them in a 
 pan, and pour scalding water over them. Shake them 
 about and drain at once. Then pour on cold water. 
 Rub hard between the hands and drain again. Then 
 spread the currants on a towel laid open on a table. 
 With another towel rub them dry. Pick over and spread 
 on platters in the heater till perfectly dry. Then put into 
 glass jars till wanted. Scatter flour over them before 
 putting them in cake, to make sure of their not sinking 
 to the bottom. 
 
 To Stone Raisins. 
 
 Pour boiling water over them and let them stand five 
 or ten minutes. Drain and rub each raisin between the 
 thumb and finger till the seeds come out clean. Dry the 
 raisins before using, and rub them in flour before putting 
 into cake, to prevent their sinking to the bottom. If 
 chopped, flour should be scattered over them to prevent 
 their adhering together. 
 
 To Make a Meringue. 
 
 Take the whites of as many eggs as you like; four 
 will be enough to cover a large dish. Allow one half 
 tablespoonful of sugar (pulverized is best) to each egg (if 
 you use much sugar the meringue will be less light) ; and 
 after beating them stiff, add the sugar. Beat only just 
 
 
14- How to Cook Well 
 
 enough to mix it in. Spread the meringue over a pudding 
 or whatever you like, and set on the top shelf of the 
 oven, which should be very hot. Watch it closely, for it 
 will brown in a moment, and if not removed at once will 
 burn. It should be only a yellow-brown, not a dark color. 
 It is best served as soon as it is perfectly cold. 
 
BREAKFAST. 
 
 REMARKS ON BREAKFAST. 
 
 BREAKFAST ought to be made a very pleasant meal, be- 
 ginning the day, as it does, after the family have been sep- 
 arated for the night. Yet in how many families is it the 
 custom to send off the master of the house to his daily 
 round of business with an unsatisfied feeling after partak- 
 ing of a hurried, uncomfortable meal, composed mainly 
 of the remains of yesterday's dinner, warmed over in any 
 way most easy to the cook, without seasoning, and alto- 
 gether unpalatable. 
 
 I am not finding fault with the materials for the break- 
 fast, but with the manner of preparing and serving. By 
 all means use at breakfast what is left from dinner of the 
 day before, but cook it carefully, season it appetizingly, 
 serve it prettily, and have it hot smoking hot, not 
 merely warm. Give your cook to understand that she 
 must be down in the morning in time to get ready the 
 breakfast with as much care as she bestows upon the din- 
 ner. Be down yourself at the moment of dishing it, to 
 see to its being served temptingly. 
 
 If summer, and your home is in the country, have al- 
 ways a few flowers on the breakfast table, no matter what 
 you do at other meals. Even a few daisies or clover blos- 
 soms, with the dew still on them, lend a grace that is 
 pleasing. If winter, have highly-colored fruit, if possible, 
 such as oranges. If your purse cannot afford this, see 
 
 15 
 
16 How to Cook Well 
 
 that at least the silver is shining, the coffee-pot bright, 
 and the table has an air of warmth and comfort. An aid 
 to this is a red tablecloth in winter ; but be sure that it 
 is clean and spotless. Do not allow it to be left on the 
 table between meals, but substitute a different one for 
 this purpose. 
 
 DRINKS. 
 
 (For Coffee, Tea, Cocoa, and Chocolate, see page 348.) 
 
 CEREALS. 
 Boiled Oatmeal. 
 
 1 cup oatmeaL 
 
 14 quarts cold water. 
 
 li teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 Do not wash oatmeal. Put it on, with the water and 
 salt, in a double-boiler and let it boil hard till all the water 
 is absorbed. Stir only once, when it first begins to boil. 
 It should boil as long as two hours, and it is therefore a 
 good plan to cook it the afternoon before it is to be served. 
 It can then easily be made hot for breakfast, adding a 
 very little water. Oatmeal cooked in a hurry, with the 
 kernels only half-swelled, is not fit for any human stomach. 
 Eat hot with cream and sugar. For a family of five. 
 
 What is left from breakfast may be used for " Oatmeal 
 Griddle Cakes," or may be fried for tea. 
 
 Boiled Hominy (fine). 
 
 1 cup hominy. 
 
 li quarts boiling water. 
 
 2 even teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 Boil hard in a double boiler till the water is all absorbed. 
 It may be one and one half hours, probably less. Serve 
 hot, with cream, or butter and sugar. 
 
Breakfast. 17 
 
 What is left over, use for muffins, griddle cakes, hom- 
 iny bread; or fry it as croquettes. Never throw away 
 even a half-cupful of fine hominy, for the ways to use it 
 are innumerable. 
 
 Boiled Samp or Hominy (coarse). 
 
 4 cup hominy. 
 
 2 quarts boiling water. 
 
 1 toaspoonful Halt. 
 
 Soak for two hours in cold water enough to cover it. 
 Then add the boiling water and salt, and boil about three 
 hours or until tender. Drain off the water when done and 
 save it for a very delicate and delicious thickening for 
 soup. (It is so rich that it will jelly when cold.) 
 
 Serve the hominy hot, with cream and sugar. 
 
 What is left, use for "Baked Hominy," for luncheon or 
 tea. 
 
 Corn Meal Hasty Pudding. 
 
 Mix one pint corn meal with a little cold water and one 
 teaspoonful of salt. Stir it into five quarts of water, boiling 
 hard in a large iron pot. Let it boil about half an hour. 
 Then stir in one cup more of meal (dry). From time to 
 time, throw in a little more meal, taking care that it docs 
 not get too thick. Taste it, to be sure that it is salt 
 enough, and stir often to prevent burning. Boil fully one 
 hour, and be sure that it is thoroughly done. 
 
 Serve hot with butter and molasses, or milk and sugar. 
 
 Use what is left for "Corn Bread" (using the h:isty 
 pudding for part of the corn meal), or for "Fried Hasty 
 Pudding." 
 
 By adding eggs, a bit of butter, spice, molasses and 
 milk you can make a good baked pudding. 
 
 Graham Hasty Pudding. 
 M.ike like Corn Meal Hasty Pudding, and serve hot 
 
 with butter an-1 sugar, or milk. 
 
18 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Fried Hasty Pudding, Hominy and Oatmeal. 
 
 These should be boiled the day before, and set away in 
 a wet pan to stiffen. A deep, square pan is the best. 
 Cut in half-inch slices and fry in lard or beef dripping 
 until brown. The corn meal will take fully half an hour 
 to brown. Serve hot with syrup or molasses. 
 
 EGGS. 
 Boiled Eggs. 
 
 Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Wash, and put 
 each egg into the water with a tablespoon so as not to 
 crack the shell. Be sure that the water more than covers 
 the eggs and is not boiling too violently. Boil for three 
 minutes if you like them soft ; twelve if hard. 
 
 Another way of boiling eggs soft is to put them in an 
 egg-dish or deep covered bowl. Pour over them water 
 which you are quite sure is boiling (not simply hot), to 
 take the chill off. Drain off this, and cover a second time 
 with boiling water. Cover tight; set on the breakfast 
 table and leave in the water about ten minutes. 
 
 Boiled Eggs (French Style). 
 
 Wash the eggs, and put them in a sauce-pan full of boil- 
 ing water. Set the sauce-pan at once on a part of the stove 
 where the water will keep as hot as possible^ without boil- 
 ing. Leave the eggs in just ten minutes. This is the 
 nicest way to boil them. 
 
 Eggs left from breakfast may afterwards be boiled hard 
 and used for various things, such as Convent Eggs, Baked 
 Eggs a la Creme, Escalloped Eggs and Meat, Pressed 
 Veal, and Egg Sauce ; or slice them for Spinach or Soup 
 or to garnish a dish of fish. 
 
Rredkfast. 19 
 
 Poached or Dropped Eggs. 
 
 Make sure your frying-pan is perfectly clean, as the 
 least impurity will spoil the whiteness of the eggs. Pour 
 into it boiling water. Hreak the eggs earefully into a 
 plate, taking care that they do not run together, and that 
 the yolks do not break. Take the frying-pan oft the stove 
 and carefully slip the eggs from the plate upon the sur- 
 face of the water. Put the frying-pan back on the stove 
 and boil gently for three minutes, dipping the water oc- 
 casionally over the top of the eggs. Have ready slices of 
 buttered toast, on a hot platter. Take out the eggs with 
 a perforated skimmer, and lay upon the toast. Sprinkle 
 the yolks with pepper and salt. 
 
 If only one or two eggs are to be poached, it is a good 
 plan to put muffin-rings in the water, and break the eggs 
 each into a ring. This will keep them nicely in shape. 
 
 Poached Eggs with Sauce. 
 
 4 tablespoon fuls veal gravy. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls cold water. 
 
 1 or 2 teaspoon fills good viiiegar. 
 
 A little pepper and -alt . 
 
 4 ftfffs (yolks only). 
 
 Some poached eggs. 
 
 Put the first four ingredients into a stew-pan on the fire. 
 While it is heating beat yolks of the eggs and " Poach " 
 some eggs. When the mixture begins to boil, pour it 
 upon the beaten yolks, stirring fast. Return it to the fire 
 for a moment to thicken. Stir it every minute and do 
 not leave it long enough to boil. Have ready the poached 
 eggs in a platter. Pour the hot sauce over and garnish 
 the dish with parsley. 
 
 A Cheaper Sauce for Poached Eggs. 
 
 Put half a nip of tailing water in a sauce-pan, with two 
 or three large spoonfuls of nice, strained gravy of any 
 
20 
 
 How to Cook 'Well. 
 
 kind, a little pepper and one quarter teaspoon ful of salt. 
 When it boils stir in a heaping teaspoonful of flour, wet 
 smoothly with a little cold water. Stir and boil one min- 
 ute, then add a tablespoonful of butter. Stir steadily two 
 minutes longer, till thick as cream, and add, if you like, a 
 little minced parsley, or chopped pickle. 
 
 Eggs Poached in OIL 
 
 {A New Orleans Receipt.) 
 
 Olive oiL 
 Eggs- 
 Mushrooms, cooked and 
 chopped. 
 
 Onions, sliced fine. 
 
 Capers. 
 
 Parsley. 
 
 Beef stock, or mushroom water. 
 
 Put just enough olive oil in a skillet to cook the eggs 
 one by one by tipping the pan. Drop each egg in whole. 
 Cook till the white is " set." Then lay on a hot platter. 
 When all are done, put into the oil a very little onion and 
 fry brown. Add three mushrooms for each egg, a few 
 capers, and a little parsley chopped very fine. Dredge in 
 a sprinkling of flour, and add a little beefstock, or water 
 from the mushroom can. Pepper and salt to tnste. 
 Cook a moment, stirring constantly, and pour over the 
 eggs. 
 
 Pried Eggs. 
 
 Put in a frying-pan one half tablespoonful of ham fat, 
 lard or butter (the first is best). Drop the eggs one at a 
 time, breaking them carefully so as not to let the yolk and 
 white run together. Let them fry about three minutes. 
 Take up and put on a hot platter, draining off all the 
 grease you can. 
 
 Ham and Eggs. 
 
 Cut two thin slices of ham, either raw or boiled, and take 
 off the rind, but leave on some of the fat. If the ham is 
 very salt, pour hot water over it, but do not leave it to 
 
Breakfast. 21 
 
 soak. Wipe the slices dry, and put into a hot frying-pan 
 (not greased). Move these occasionally in the pan so 
 that they will not burn, and turn them in about two 
 minutes. Lay on a hot platter when thoroughly done, 
 and keep hot while you drop four eggs (broken carefully) 
 into the fat which remains in the frying-pan. Leave them 
 about two minutes to fry, then put them on the ham ; 
 two eggs to each slice of ham. 
 
 Baked Eggs. 
 
 Butter an earthen plate. Into it drop carefully one egg 
 at a time (keeping the yolk whole) till the plate is full ; 
 the eggs being side by side, as for poached eggs. Sprinkle 
 with pepper and salt, and put a bit of butter on each. Set 
 in a very hot oven, and bake about three minutes, until 
 they are " set." 
 
 Baked Eggs a la Crime. 
 
 12 eggs boiled hard. 
 A cup fresh bread crumbs, 
 f 1 pound butter. 
 1 1 large tablespoon ful flour. 
 
 Chopped parsley (may be 
 
 omitted). 
 
 1 cup cream (milk will do). 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 i of a small ouion, chopped. 
 
 Butter a deep pudding-dish and sprinkle with a few of 
 the crumbs. Then slice each egg into six pieces. Put a 
 layer of these, then of crumbs, etc., till the dish is filled. 
 Rub the butter and flour together till smooth. Put them 
 in a sauce-pan and add the other things. Give them one 
 hard boil, stirring well, and pour over the eggs. Cover 
 the top of the dish with crumbs, and set in a very hot 
 oven to brown quickly. Serve in the same dish. This 
 makes a large dishful ; enough for eight persons or more. 
 
 Escaloped Eggs and Meat. 
 
 Wet bread or cracker crumbs thoroughly with milk. 
 Put a layer of them in a deep buttered dish. Then put 
 
22 How to Cook Well 
 
 a layer of cold hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices, and 
 spread with butter ; pepper and salt. Then have a layer 
 of chicken, veal, or ham (finely minced). Repeat. Have 
 crumbs on top. Dot with butter and pour over all half 
 a cupful of milk. Bake in a hot oven till well heated 
 through, no longer. This is an economical and tempting 
 dish. It is nice for breakfast, luncheon or tea. 
 
 Another with Raw Eggs. 
 
 i cup soaked crumbs. 
 
 Any kind cold meat, minced. 
 
 A little minced parsley. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls cream. 
 
 1 tablcspoonf ul butter, melted. 
 
 Pepper, and a pinch of salt. 
 
 6 eggs, well beaten. 
 
 Butter a small, deep pudding-dish. Line the bottom 
 and sides with the crumbs, which should be quite moist. 
 Then put in the meat, moistened with water, and mixed 
 with the parsley (this may be omitted). Set in a very 
 hot oven, covered tight, till smoking hot. Do not leave 
 it in long, or it will get dry. While it is heating beat the 
 eggs light and stir the cream and butter into them. Sea- 
 son and pour the mixture upon the hot meat. Put the 
 dish back in the oven, uncovered, and leave it a few min- 
 utes until the eggs are " set." Serve immediately. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 
 Break the eggs into a dish. Do not beat them. Put 
 a piece of butter- in a pan, and when it is hot pour the 
 eggs in. Stir with a fork, without stopping, about three 
 minutes, having the pan over the hottest part of the fire. 
 As soon as the eggs are cooked set the pan back ; add 
 pepper and salt, and dish at once, either on "Dipped 
 Toast " or in a covered dish. 
 
 Another Way. 
 
 1 egg, yolk and white separate. I h saltspoonful salt. 
 1 tablespoonf ul milk. I Butter in frying-pan. 
 
 Allow this amount for each person. Put the butter in* 
 a frying-pan to heat, having the amount regulated by the 
 
Breakfast. 23 
 
 number of eggs you mean to use. Beat the yolks and 
 add the milk and salt. Pour these in with the butter 
 when hot. As soon as they begin to thicken, j>our in the 
 whites (not beaten at all). Do not stir them till they 
 begin to look "set," then mix gently with the yolks, using 
 a fork. Do not allow them to remain an instant after 
 this, or they will be sj>oiled. Serve hot on buttered toast, 
 moistened slightly. 
 
 Fried Omelet (No. 1). 
 
 To each person allow two eggs ; and to each egg allow 
 one tablespoonful of milk, a pinch of pepper and half a 
 saltspoonful of salt. Beat yolks and whites separately, 
 adding the milk and seasoning to the yolks. Put a tablc- 
 s] MM .11 ful of butter into a frying-pan. Watch it; it must 
 not burn, but simply become hot. When this is the case, 
 quickly and lightly add the stiff whites to the l>eaten yolks 
 (not before), and pour all together into the frying-pan. 
 Do not let this be too hot. This is the great danger in 
 making omelets. An omelet should cook gently for ten 
 minutes, to be tender and delicately browned. Do not 
 stir it at all, but keep slipping a knife carefully under the 
 batter to prevent its sticking. Also shake the pan con- 
 stantly and gently. As it thickens on the edges begin to 
 roll it up (carefully) in the pan, letting the liquid batter 
 from the top run over to the further side of the pan, where 
 it will stiffen in time to be rolled up in its turn. Heal 
 dexterity is required to do this handsomely, which can 
 only be attained by practice. 
 
 A beginner had better first try making small omelets, 
 which require to be folded over, simply. Serve an omelet 
 hot, and eat before it falls. 
 
 Fried Omelet (No. 2). 
 
 If you have not as many eggs as you wish, allow half a 
 tablespoonful of powdered cracker-crumbs to each egg. 
 It is, in any <-n.sc, a pleasant addition, and makes the 
 omelet very light. 
 
24 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Cream Omelet. 
 
 3 eggs. 
 
 tablespoonfuls corn starch. 
 
 cup milk. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 
 
 1 teaspoon! ul salt. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and add them to the 
 yolks, previously well beaten with the corn starch and 
 salt. Beat all together thoroughly and add the milk. 
 Put the butter in the frying-pan, and when melted pour 
 in the mixture. Cover and place where it will brown, 
 but not burn. Cook about seven minutes. Fold, turn 
 on a hot dish and pour " Cream Sauce " around it. 
 
 Enough for five persons. 
 
 Ham Omelet. 
 
 Make like either of the "Fried Omelets," mixing 
 through the yolks and milk, a little minced boiled ham. 
 Or, pour part of the batter into the frying-pan, then put 
 in a layer of the ham and cover with the batter. Beef 
 may be used instead of ham, though it is not so nice. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. 
 
 6 eggs, beaten light. 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 4 tomatoes, chopped fine. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 I i tablespoonf ul butter. 
 
 To the beaten eggs add the flour, previously rubbed 
 with the butter. Then beat in the tomatoes, season and 
 fry like " Fried Omelet." 
 
 French Omelet. 
 
 1 cup boiling milk. 
 Butter the size of an egg. 
 1 scant cupful bread-crumbs, 
 fine and soft. 
 
 6 eggs, yolks and whites sepa- 
 
 rate. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Pour the boiling milk over the butter and crumbs. 
 When cool add the yolks of the eggs, beaten light. Beat 
 well. Just before frying, mix in lightly the beaten whites 
 
Breakfast. 25 
 
 and add seasoning. Fry in butter. See "Fried Omelet." 
 This will make two large omelets, each sufficient for five 
 persons. 
 
 Baked Omelet. 
 
 1 pint of hot milk, or less. 
 $ table-spoonful melted butter. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful salt 
 
 2 teaspoon fills flour. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten light 
 
 To the hot milk add the butter. To the eggs add the 
 salt and the flour (rubbed to a paste with a spoonful of 
 cold milk). Pour the hot milk ujxm this mixture, stirring 
 quickly. Pour into a buttered pudding-d'sh (which should 
 be slightly warmed) and bake in a quick oven fifteen min- 
 utes. Serve before it falls. 
 
 Convent Eggs. 
 
 4 hard-boiled eggs. 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 1 onion, sliced flue. 
 
 2 teaspoon fills flour, wet to a 
 
 paste. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 1 cup milk. 
 
 Shell the eggs, cut into six slices each. Put the butter 
 into the frying-pan, and when it melts and is very hot 
 add the onion and fry till tender, but not until it browns. 
 Mix in the milk. When it boils add the flour, stirring 
 until it forms a sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Put 
 in the eggs, and when they are thoroughly heated serve 
 at once on hot toast. 
 
 Stirred Eggs with Gravy. 
 
 1 dessert-spoonful butter. I 4 cupful gravy. 
 
 eggs, not beaten. | Pepper and salt 
 
 Melt the butter in a pan, over a very hot fire. Then 
 break in the eggs. Add gravy and seasoning and stir 
 quickly and constantly from the bottom. It should cook 
 only one or two minutes. Have ready a platter covered 
 with slices of hot toast. Pour the mixture on the toast 
 and serve at once. Poultry gravy is best, though any 
 
26 How to Cook Well. 
 
 kind will do. A little grated cheese stirred in just before 
 serving is an improvement, as is also a little anchovy paste 
 spread on the toast. 
 
 Curried Eggs and Toast. 
 
 1 dessertspoonful butter. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 i teaspoon ful curry paste, or 
 powder. 
 
 A pinch of cayenne pepper. 
 
 1 dessertspoonful milk. 
 
 2 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 Melt the butter in the frying-pan. Add the salt and 
 pepper, the curry and milk. Stir well. Mash fine the 
 contents of the eggs, and add them. Simmer very gently 
 until it thickens. Stir constantly, that it may not curdle. 
 Do not let it get too thick. Serve on buttered toast. 
 
 N. B. If curry-powder is used, put in a little more but- 
 ter and milk, or it will be too dry. 
 
 Devilled Eggs. 
 
 Remove the shells from cold, hard-boiled eggs. Cut in 
 halves, and pare a small slice off the bottom, so that each 
 half will stand alone. Take out the yolks. Rub them to 
 a paste with a little melted butter and a few drops of 
 vinegar. Season with a pinch of cayenne-pepper, salt and 
 mustard. Fill the whites with the paste. Cover a plate 
 with young lettuce leaves or parsley, and serve the eggs 
 on it, for a hot summer morning's breakfast. These are 
 very nice for picnics, or for a luncheon or supper table. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs. 
 
 Boil the eggs hard; cut them in two lengthwise, and 
 remove the yolks, which mash well, adding a little finely 
 minced onion, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Mash 
 also double the quantity of bread, previously soaked in 
 cream. Mix the yolks, bread, onion, parsley, and season- 
 ing together, and stir into them the raw yolk of an egg. 
 Taste, to see if they are properly seasoned. Stuff the 
 
Breakfast. 27 
 
 whites with this mixture, so that each half-egg lias the 
 appearance of containing a whole yolk. Smooth the re- 
 mainder of the mixture on the bottom of a pie-dish. 
 Arrange the halves symmetrically in this bed and brown 
 slightly in a very hot oven. 
 
 MEATS FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 In warming over cold meat and bringing it to the table 
 under various attractive forms a real art is hidden. Hut 
 do not despise learning it. You will be repaid by the 
 absence of the greasy, unappetizing preparations which 
 too often appear on otherwise well-appointed tables. 
 
 All kinds of meat can lie wanned over. Even the little 
 boiled on a soujvlnme should not l>c thrown away. Meat 
 which has been already cooked should be made merely 
 hot, not re-cooked until all the goodness is gone out of it. 
 In preparing hash, etc., be careful to remove all gristle 
 and fat. Pay great attention to seasoning nicely, and 
 make as much variety as jM>ssible. 
 
 Apropos of this (for I know how hard it is to use up a 
 large roast of meat, when the family consists of only two 
 persons, perhaps) here is a list of 
 
 Ways to Use up a Roast of Meat. 
 
 Plain hash (with potato). 
 
 St. Patrick's pie. 
 
 Breakfast dish of cabbage. 
 
 A summer medley. 
 
 An appetizing breakfast dish. 
 
 Casserole rice and meat. 
 
 Mousaka. 
 
 Dolmath6s. 
 
 Breakfast turnovers. 
 
 It will be seen that any of the first five dishes can be 
 used a second time, for any that follow. 
 
 Meat warmed in slices. 
 Mlroton. 
 Cold meat stew. 
 Minced, hashed. 
 A ring of meat 
 Ham omelet (using beef). 
 Escallo}>ed eggs and meat. 
 Meat balls, or croquettes, 
 hash. 
 
28 now to Cook Well. 
 
 Hash. 
 
 Hash can be varied in a number of ways. Remove all 
 fat and gristle from cold meat, and chop it very fine if to 
 be used without potato, coarser, if with. Chop the pota- 
 toes separately, using rather more potato than meat. 
 Have ready in a hot frying-pan a little gravy, milk, or 
 water and butter. Put in the hash, with salt and pepper. 
 Stir and toss every moment till of a good consistency and 
 smoking hot. Then serve at once. All hash should be 
 cooked over a very hot fire. 
 
 Browned Hash 
 
 Is prepared as above, using mutton, corned beef or ham, 
 and mashed potato if you like. Instead of warming it in 
 gravy, put a lump of beef-dripping (or other fat) in the 
 pan and brown on the under side without stirring. When 
 crisp and brown, serve bottom side up on a hot platter. 
 If corned beef is used, a little chopped red pepper may be 
 added ; with ham, a little mustard. 
 
 Minced Hash. 
 
 This is fine hash, without potato. Stir while heating 
 it, and serve on dipped toast. This should be seasoned 
 with especial care. A little catsup, " Claret Syrup " or 
 "Stewed Tomato" is a pleasant addition. If veal is used 
 add mace, sage and a little chopped celery. If beef a 
 little marjoram. 
 
 Poultry Hash 
 
 Is made like minced hash. Mix with it the stuffing, and 
 add, if you have any, the remains of oysters cooked in any 
 way, and chopped, or a little " Boiled Rice " may be used. 
 Vary it by adding curry powder. 
 
 Baked Hash. 
 
 Mince fine any kind of cold meat, and season it well. 
 Put in a buttered pudding-dish, in layers with crumbs of 
 bread or cracker, having the layers of meat about twice as 
 
Breakfast. 29 
 
 thick as the crumbs. Pour half a cupful of gravy, milk, or 
 water (or more if the dish is large) over all. Cover with 
 dots of butter, and bake in a very hot oven till brown. 
 Put layers of tomato or rice (cooked) in place of crumbs, 
 for a change. If you use tomato a little ground cloves is 
 a good addition. Veal treated thus is excellent. 
 
 Baked Hash With Eggs. 
 
 Mince fine any kind of cold meat. Season well. Put 
 it in a shallow buttered pudding-dish, grate stale bread 
 crumbs on top, and moisten the whole by pouring over it 
 a little cold gravy, or milk (water will do). Set the dish 
 in a very hot oven, and as soon as it is warm, break sev- 
 eral eggs (whole) over the top in such a way as not to 
 break the yolks. Sprinkle with salt and pepj>er, and leave 
 in the oven till the eggs are "set," f. e., keep their shape. 
 Another way is to make a mixture as for fried omelet. 
 Pour it over the meat and set in a hot oven till just cooked 
 through. This should IKJ eaten before it falls. These arc 
 good ways to "help out" a small amount of meat. 
 
 An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. 
 
 Butter a pudding-dish and till with the following mixt- 
 ure: Rare meat, minced very fine, enough to fill the 
 dish half-full ; half as much boiled rice, and one half as 
 much tomato, cooked in any way. Mix all together, add 
 a bit of butter, melted, and season highly with salt, pepper, 
 sweet marjoram, and ground cloves. Taste a little to be 
 sure of the seasoning Fill the pudding-dish, pour one 
 cupful of gravy, or water, over all, and bake in a very hot 
 oven till brown. This is of course as economical as deli- 
 cious, all the requisite ingredients being " left over." What 
 is left of this mix into soup. The same mixture is delicious 
 baked in patty-pans, or it may be fried like meat balls. 
 This is much improved by adding a slice or two of cooked 
 i -hint, chopped. Beans, too, make a good addition. 
 
30 How to Cook Well. 
 
 In fact the greater number of vegetables you have (all 
 chopped) the more delicious the dish, as the flavor of all 
 is blended together. 
 
 Beef Roll. 
 
 2 or 3 cupf uls cold roast beef. 
 
 1 egg (well beaten). 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls powdered 
 
 cracker. 
 
 l teaspoonfuls salt. 
 i saltspoonf ul pepper. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul thyme, 
 i tablespoonf ul sage. 
 
 1 table spoonful summer savory. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 
 i cupful cold gravy. 
 
 Mince the beef very fine. Mix in the egg and cracker, 
 and then season. With floured hands shape like a round 
 loaf. Put it in a pan. Wet the entire top with the 
 melted butter. Pour the gravy around it. (If you have 
 not enough gravy, add water.) Bake three quarters of 
 an hour, basting it often with the gravy. When done, 
 put on a hot platter, and pour the gravy around. If the 
 gravy is too thin, set the pan on top of the stove. When 
 it boils, dredge in a little flour, stirring well. Serve hot. 
 Cut in slices at the table. 
 
 St. Patrick's Pie. 
 
 Butter a dish. Fill it two thirds full of minced meat 
 of any kind. Pour a little gravy over it to moisten. Fill 
 up the dish with mashed potato. Put lumps of butter 
 over the top, dredge with flour, and set in a quick oven 
 for about fifteen minutes to brown. 
 
 A Ring of Meat. 
 (A Swiss Dish.) 
 
 Butter a pudding-dish. Invert a cup in the centre. 
 Make a ring around it of cold meat, minced and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and powdered herbs. Pour over it 
 enough gravy or stock to moisten it well. Cover, and 
 bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Then uncover, 
 
Breakfast. 31 
 
 in<l brown quickly. Remove the cup, and servo in the 
 same dish. There will be a pool of gravy in the centre, 
 with a ring of meat around. 
 
 Hidden Hash; 
 
 Make same as "Meat Balls," but when dished, cover 
 each one with a layer of hot apple sauce or cranberry 
 sauce one inch thick. 
 
 Breakfast Turnovers. 
 
 Boil and mash six or eight potatoes. While hot, season, 
 add one or two eggs (beaten) and just flour enough to 
 enable you to roll the potato out on a breadboard about 
 half an inch thick. Cut into rounds with a saucer. Spread 
 each one with melted butter. Cover half of each with a 
 layer of any kind of cold meat minced fine and seasoned 
 nicely. Fold over the potato nearly one half so as to 
 cover the meat. Fry to a light brown in good beef drip- 
 ping, or bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 Toast Sandwiches. 
 
 Cut a thick slice of bread for each person. Cut into 
 rounds with a large biscuit cutter. Toast them nicely; 
 butter while hot. On each round put a layer of hot 
 minced meat (beef, mutton, or veal) seasoned well. On 
 this lay a " Poached Egg." Serve on a platter. 
 
 Both for this and the last receipt but little meat is re- 
 quired. 
 
 Tough Beefsteak 
 
 Can be made palatable in this way : Mince it fine, and 
 put it in a sauce-pan with enough water to cover it. Sim- 
 mer gently for half an hour; then stir in a lump of but- 
 ter, and dredge in a little flour and a sprinkling of pepper 
 and salt. Add also tomato catsup, or stewed tomato if 
 you like it. Serve in a covered dish. (See also JJ- t' 
 Stew.) 
 
32 How to Cook Well 
 
 Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Cut in rather thin slices, and pare off the skin. Lay in 
 a hot frying-pan, not greased, and fry till nicely browned 
 on both sides. Serve on a hot platter with mashed potato 
 balls or rice balls laid around the edges. Save the fat 
 that remains in the pan to fry potatoes. 
 
 Fried Ham. 
 
 (See " Ham and Eggs.") 
 
 When thoroughly done lay on a hot platter and serve 
 in the gravy. This goes well with rice balls or mashed 
 potato balls. 
 
 Sliced Ham, Dressed. 
 
 Cut raw ham into slices ; soak in scalding water a quar- 
 ter of an hour. Then drain and squeeze dry. Lay the 
 slices in a frying-pan. Pepper each and spread with a 
 little made mustard. Pour into the frying-pan half a tea- 
 spoonful of vinegar to each slice. Fry over a very hot 
 fire, turning often. When tender lay the slices on a hot 
 platter. Add to the gravy a wineglassful of wine (may 
 be omitted) and one teaspoonful of sugar. Boil up once 
 and pour over the ham and serve. 
 Sausages. 
 
 If the sausages are in skins prick each one with a fork. 
 Lay them in a dry frying-pan, as they are too fat to re- 
 quire any grease to brown them. Cover the pan and let 
 it heat gradually. If they cook too fast they will not be 
 done in the middle. Turn them often and brown every 
 side. Three quarters of an hour will be none too long to 
 cook them. Be careful that they do not burn. If you 
 choose, fry slices of bread in the fat which remains after 
 taking up the sausages. Serve on the platter with them. 
 Always serve apple sauce with sausages. Save the fat 
 from frying sausages. It is very nice to fry potatoes in, 
 and also can be used for gingerbread instead of lard. 
 
Breakfast. 33 
 
 Baked Sausages. 
 
 Put in the oven in a baking-tin, turning when necessary, 
 just as if you were frying them. Brown them well ; they 
 are less greasy than if fried, and are more delicate in every 
 way. Apples in some form are always a good accompani- 
 
 ment to sausages. 
 
 Stewed Kidneys. 
 
 Soak in cold water half an hour. Skin them, and stew 
 slowly in just enough cold water to cover them. When 
 done, thicken the gravy with flour, add salt and pepper, 
 and dish. Wine is an improvement, added at the last. 
 Kidneys should be used at once ; they do not keep well. 
 
 Boiled Lambs' Tongues. 
 
 These are easily obtained in the country, and are a del- 
 icacy that ought to be better known, lie sure to order 
 enough, for lambs' tongues are very small. Wash, and 
 boil them slowly in cold water, salted, for nearly two hours, 
 skimming the water when necessary. Boil with them a 
 spoonful of minced carrot, if you like the flavor. When 
 tender, skin them, and lay them on a hot platter. Thicken 
 a pint of the liquor that remains in the pot, with half a 
 cupful of flour. Sprinkle in pepper, and pour over the 
 tongue. Garnish with slices of hard boiled egg and lemon. 
 These are nice simply boiled and served cold for tea. 
 
 Lambs' Hearts. 
 
 In buying, allow one heart to every two persons. Be 
 sure to get the hearts fresh, and use them as soon as pos- 
 sible, for they do not keep long. Never soak them, as 
 some do. Wash well and boil slowly in enough warm 
 water to cover them, for about one hour, till tender. 
 I'r-MMvd as with lambs' tongues, but add to the sauce a 
 little tomato catsup, stewed tomato, or lemon-juice, as an 
 improvement. This is a cheap and good breakfast di>h. 
 
34 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Cold Meat Stew. 
 
 Cut cold roast beef or mutton into quite small pieces. 
 Put on to stew with enough cold water and gravy to 
 cover it. Do not let it boil fast. When well heated 
 through add a few tablespoonfuls of catsup, or a little 
 Worcestershire sauce, or a few whole cloves, and salt and 
 pepper. Take out the meat and keep it hot while you 
 thicken the broth if necessary by dredging in a little flour. 
 Pour over the meat and serve hot. If the meat has a 
 bone in it boil that with the stew till the entire substance 
 is extracted. Then take it out. Add a minced onion if 
 you like, or sliced cold potatoes. 
 
 Meat Warmed in Slices. 
 
 Put cold gravy into a shallow pan. Set on the stove. 
 When it comes to the boil add boiling water and season 
 nicely with spices, burnt sugar, catsup, or anything you 
 like. Lay in pieces of meat cut in rather thick slices. 
 Do not boil them, but simply heat very hot. Serve in a 
 platter, the gravy poured over. Or, warm the meat in 
 gravy without any special seasoning, and lay "Baked To- 
 matoes " around the edge of the dish, or " Baked Onions." 
 
 Miroton, 
 
 Put into a frying-pan a large lump of butter. Fry in 
 it six onions sliced. When tender add thin slices of cold 
 roast beef. When these are hot add a little broth or 
 gravy, pepper and salt. Boil up once and serve. 
 
 Warmed-over Chicken or Turkey. 
 
 Cut all the meat from the bones of cold chickens. Put 
 the bones on to stew in a little water. Have the sauce- 
 pan covered. Take out the bones when the goodness is 
 all extracted (in half an hour). Add the cold gravy ; put 
 in the chicken, cut into small pieces ; add the stuffing, 
 and a little cold "Boiled Rice" (if you have it). Chop 
 
Breakfast. 35 
 
 a little celery and add that with a little salt. Let all 
 stew gently for ten minutes. In the meantime toast a 
 few thick slices of bread. Lay them in a platter. Spread 
 each one thickly with cranberry sauce or simply moisten 
 with gravy from the chicken. Pour the chicken over the 
 toast and serve hot. (The rice, celery and sauce may be 
 omitted.) 
 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 
 Shave very thin slices of dried beef ; put them into a 
 sauce-pan, with one cup of milk. Boil gently a few min- 
 utes, then add a teaspoonful of butter and one egg beaten 
 with two teagpoonfulfi of flour. Stir well. (Add nioro 
 milk if needed.) 
 
 Veal aux Pommes. 
 
 Butter the bottom and sides of a sauce-pan. Cut cold 
 (or raw) veal in thin slices. Pare and core some apples, 
 and quarter them. Have about one third apple to two 
 thirds meat; Put together into the sauce-pan, with pepper 
 and salt. Cover tight, and stew till tender (about half an 
 hour). If the apples are very dry, add a very little water. 
 Beef may be used instead of veal. In that case add also 
 a little minced onion. Serve covered. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Canned Salmon on Toast. 
 
 Take off the top of the can. Set it in a kettle of boil- 
 ing water to become very hot. Have ready slices of hot 
 toast on a platter. Pick the fish into shreds. Lay it over 
 the toast (previously moistened), and sprinkle with a few 
 drops of lemon or vinegar. Arrange tastefully with 
 parsley if you have it. A more elaborate dish is to pour 
 plenty of drawn butter over the fish on toast, and if in 
 season garnish the dish with lettuce leaves all around the 
 
How to Cook Well. 
 
 edges. Have the stems covered by the toast, and help to 
 each person with the toast. What fish is left will make 
 good sandwiches. 
 
 Pince of Canned Salmon, 
 
 i can of salmon. 
 1 quart of milk. 
 1 tablespoonf ul of butter. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 
 1 teaspoonf ul of salt. 
 1 saltspoonf ul of pepper. 
 
 Remove the oil, skin and bones from the salmon. Boil 
 the milk. Rub the butter into the flour, and stir into the 
 boiling milk. Season with the salt and pepper, and add 
 the salmon broken into bits. When heated it is ready to 
 serve. 
 
 Canned Salmon Baked. 
 
 1 can of salmon. 
 i cupful of fine, soft bread- 
 crumbs. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul of melted but- 
 ter. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 3 or 4 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 Pick the salmon fine, and mix it with the bread- 
 crumbs ; add the eggs, melted butter and seasoning ; put 
 into a buttered pudding dish or into gem pans ; set in a 
 pan of hot water and bake twenty minutes at longest in a 
 hot oven. Serve hot, with or without "Lobster" or 
 " Oyster Sauce." If baked in gem-pans, turn them out 
 on a platter, and pour the sauce over. 
 
 Codfish Puff. 
 
 Make a mixture as for " Codfish Balls." Put into a but- 
 tered earthen plate, and smooth over the top. Cover with 
 bits of butter, and bake in a very hot oven till brown 
 (about ten minutes). Serve in the same dish. 
 
 Stewed Codfish (salt). 
 
 Put to soak one pound salt cod at about six in the af- 
 ternoon in cold water. In about three hours pour off this 
 water, and cover with warm. Leave it on the stove over 
 
Breakfast. 37 
 
 night, where it will keep hot, but not boil. In the morn- 
 ing change the water for that which is boiling. Boil very 
 slowly for half an hour (if it boils fast it will get tough 
 and hard, and smell disagreeably). Take out the fish ; 
 with a knife and fork, pick it into shreds, removing all 
 the bones. Then make the sauce. Take one cup of the 
 water in which the fish was boiled ; add to it one and a 
 half cupfuls of milk; let this come to a boil ; add a pinch 
 of salt, and half a cupful of flour, rubbed to a paste with a 
 little cold milk. Stir until thick, and add a beaten egg, 
 stirring fast, so as not to curdle. (This may be omitted.) 
 Put the fish into the sauce and let it get hot, not boil, stir- 
 ing all the time to prevent the egg from curdling. Pour 
 into a platter, and garnish it with slices of hard-boiled 
 eggs. What is left over may be used for codfish balls 
 with the addition of mashed potato. 
 
 Broiled Salt Mackerel. 
 
 Put to soak in cold water more than twenty-four hours 
 beforehand ; change the water a great many times. Wipe 
 the fish dry ; dredge with flour, and lay on a hot buttered 
 gridiron with the inside down. Broil ovet hot coals for 
 ten minutes ; then turn, and broil the other side. When 
 tender lay on a hot platter. Serve with or without 
 "Drawn Butter" or "Sauce Piquant" poured over. 
 
 Boiled Salt Mrckerel. 
 
 Soak as above. Boil in a cloth or fish-kettle, and serve 
 with sauce as above. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. 
 Fried Apples. 
 
 Peel and slice five or six sour apples, not very thin. 
 Have- ready in a frying-pan several thin pieces of salt pork 
 fried to a crisp. Put in the apples and fry over a slow 
 
38 How to Cook Well. 
 
 fire, stirring occasionally, and taking care not to let them 
 become mushy by too hot a fire or too frequent stirring. 
 Serve hot, with meat; or eat with cream and sugar. 
 Apples that are too dry for anything else are good pre- 
 pared in this way. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 
 See page 356. Early apples, baked, make a refreshing 
 addition to a breakfast on the hot mornings we sometimes 
 have in early autumn. And in winter, they are exceed- 
 ingly wholesome, served hot, with brown sugar. 
 
 Baked Beans. 
 
 Wash one pint of pea or navy beans, and put to soak 
 over night in one quart of cold water. In the morning, 
 drain off the water; pour boiling water over them, and let 
 them stand covered, until the water is cold. Drain again, 
 and put in a bean-pot, or pudding-dish. Then add two 
 tablespoonfuls of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and half 
 a saltspoonful of soda (dissolved). The soda is to prevent 
 any evil effects from eating them. Stir all together gently 
 and fill up the pot with boiling water. (There should be 
 enough to much more than cover the beans, which should 
 not be allowed to dry up enough to need stirring, as that 
 would spoil their shape.) Put a quarter of a pound of 
 salt pork in the middle of the beans, pressing it down a 
 little. Cover the pot, and leave it in a slow oven for 
 several hours, until the water is all absorbed, and the 
 beans are tender. It is the custom in Boston to leave 
 them in the oven all night, and to have them on the break- 
 fast table every Sunday morning, with "Boston Brown 
 Bread." Enough for a family of seven. What is left 
 of baked beans use for " Tomato and Bean Soup." An- 
 other way, but not so good, is to parboil the beans (after 
 soaking them) with the salt pork. Then bake them. 
 
Breakfast. 39 
 
 Macaroni with Oysters. 
 
 Put in a buttered pudding-dish, layers of boiled mac- 
 aroni and oysters. Put bits of butter and pepper and 
 salt on each layer of oysters. Pour over all one cupful of 
 cream or milk and bake in a hot oven, with grated bread- 
 crumbs on top, for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Ham and Macaroni. 
 
 Put into a buttered pudding-dish cold or hot boiled mac- 
 aroni, in layers, with minced ham. Put on each layer of 
 macaroni bits of butter and grated cheese. Season the 
 ham with a little mustard or finely chopped onion. Beat 
 one egg, and mix with one cupful of milk. Pour over all, 
 and bake in a very quick oven for ten minutes. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Wash large, smooth potatoes of about the same size. 
 Bake in a moderately hot oven for alx>ut one hour. Turn 
 them three or four times, so that they will be evenly done. 
 Eat at once. Cold baked potatoes may be warmed over 
 by plunging into cold water, and then laying them for ten 
 minutes in a very hot oven. The only other way to use 
 them over successfully is for ** Potato Rechauffee." 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Clioose potatoes of a uniform size, and wash them. Put 
 into a dripping-pan with half a cupful of cold water, allow- 
 ing fully one hour to bake. Bake in a moderate oven till 
 soft, turning frequently. Do not add more water. Boiled 
 sxvcet potatoes are not fit to eat, but they may be par- 
 boiled and then baked. Grate what are left for " Sweet 
 P..i:ito 1 'lidding or Pie." 
 
40 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Stuffed Potatoes. 
 
 Bake Irish potatoes as above. When just done cut off 
 one end of each, and carefully scoop out the inside in such 
 a way as not to break the skins. Mash the potato through 
 a sieve ; add salt, butter, a little milk and grated cheese 
 (be sure to put in enough cheese to give a decided flavor). 
 Fill the potato skins with this mixture. Heap them full, 
 and do not put on the covers. Put back into the oven, 
 which should be very hot, until thoroughly heated. 
 
 N. B. These are improved by adding to the mixture 
 the beaten yolk or white of an egg, and using cream 
 instead of milk. The cheese may be omitted if it is not 
 
 liked. 
 
 Pried Potatoes. 
 
 Put into a frying pan a large tablespoonful of lard, beef 
 dripping or ham-fat (that from sausages is very good). 
 Have ready cold boiled potatoes cut into small slices or 
 chopped coarsely. When the grease in the pan is very 
 hot, put in the potatoes and brown quickly, or they will 
 be greasy. Stir occasionally, adding more grease if they 
 are likely to burn. A few minutes before serving add 
 plenty of salt and pepper. Be careful not to use too much 
 grease, and not to put in the potatoes till it is hot^ for a 
 dish of greasy fried potatoes is revolting. 
 
 Another Way is as follows : Slice cold boiled pota- 
 toes lengthwise into even, thick slices, and fry in any kind 
 of fat but butter, as that will not brown them well. When 
 the fat is very hot, dredge the slices with flour, and lay 
 them in side by side. As each one browns on one side 
 turn it on the other. Do not stir them together. Pepper 
 and salt plentifully, and dish neatly. A pretty way is to 
 lay them around minced hash on a platter. 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Put into a frying-pan a large tablespoonful of butter. 
 When very hot, add half a small onion (minced very fine). 
 
Breakfast. 41 
 
 Do not put in more than this, there should be only a 
 suspicion of onion. Cut into dice six cold boiled potatoes. 
 Add them to the frying onion, after a moment, and fry to 
 a delicate brown. Season shortly before serving with 
 chopped parsley (this is essential), pepper and salt. 
 
 Fry quickly, so that they will not be greasy, and serve as 
 soon as done, so that they will not dry out. 
 Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Slice cold parboiled potatoes lengthwise, into slices a 
 quarter of an inch thick, and fry to a delicate brown in 
 dripping, lard or butter. 
 
 Cold baked sweet potatoes should be chopped coarsely 
 and fried quickly in plenty of butter. 
 Broiled Potatoes. 
 
 Use either cold boiled or parboiled potatoes. Cut them 
 in slices half an inch thick, put them in a wire gridiron and 
 broil over hot coals till well browned on both sides. Sea- 
 son with pepper and salt, lay in a hot platter, and put a Ml 
 of butter on each slice. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes with Gravy. 
 
 Cut into cubes cold boiled potatoes. Put into a sauce- 
 pan with cold gravy of any kind. Season with salt and 
 pepper. Stew gently for ten minutes. Do not stir much 
 for fear of spoiling the shape of the potatoes. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes with Milk. 
 
 Pare raw potatoes. Cut into thick slices. Soak in cold 
 water half an hour. Stew in enough cold water to cover 
 them, till tender (about fifteen minutes). Do not let them 
 boil fast enough to break. Drain off all the water. Pour 
 on milk enough to nearly cover them ; add salt and when 
 it boils again a large lump of butter (rubbed with an equal 
 quantity of flour), and a little pepper. Let it boil till it 
 thickens. Serve in a covered dish. 
 
42 How to Cook WeU. 
 
 Potato Bechauffee. 
 
 Cut cold boiled or baked potatoes in small cubes. Have 
 ready in a sauce-pan as much milk as you think will nearly 
 cover them. To each pint of milk take half a cupful of 
 flour. Rub the flour smooth in a little cold milk, and 
 when that in the sauce-pan boils, pour it in. Stir while it 
 thickens ; add salt and pepper, and a large lump of but- 
 ter. Then put in the potatoes. When they all come to 
 a boil pour into a covered dish, and serve. 
 
 Potatoes and Cream. 
 
 Mince cold boiled or baked potatoes. Put them into a 
 hot frying-pan. Season with pepper and salt and pour 
 over them enough cream to nearly cover tEem. Let them 
 come to a boil, and serve hot in a covered dish. 
 
 Potato Snow. 
 
 While hot, rub "Mashed Potatoes" through a colander 
 into the dish in which they are to be served. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
 This is a pretty dish. 
 
 Potato Puff. 
 
 Moisten with hot milk cold ' Mashed Potato." Beat it 
 till smooth. Butter an earthen plate or platter. Put the 
 potato into it, mounding it up high. Cover the entire top 
 with melted butter, and dredge it with flour. With a 
 knife mark the top off into diamonds, and set into the 
 oven, which should be very hot. When brown (in ten 
 minutes or so) serve in the same dish. It is an improve- 
 ment to add to the potato two eggs beaten light. 
 
 Cucumbers (raw). 
 
 Keep the cucumbers on ice till wanted. Peel them, 
 and slice thin, beginning at the blossom end, or else they 
 
Breakfast. 43 
 
 will be bitter. Pour over them a little vinegar, with a 
 sprinkling of salt and pepper and set on ice till the last 
 moment before serving. Some slice with them a raw 
 
 onion. 
 
 Fried Onions with Eggs. 
 
 Peel and quarter eight onions, and soak in cold water 
 for awhile. Then put them in a frying-pan with a little 
 water and one cupful of pork gravy (or a little lard). 
 Scatter one tablespoonful of salt over all. Cover, and 
 cook till tender. Then uncover, and cook fast till brown. 
 Beat six eggs, and stir them in. Serve hot in a covered 
 dish. 
 
 (A North Carolina dish.) 
 
 Fried Cabbage. 
 
 Melt a lump of butter in a frying-pan. When very hot, 
 stir in some cold, boiled cabbage, well seasoned with but- 
 ter, pepper and salt, and moistened with a little cream or 
 milk. 
 
 Stir till the whole is hot, then leave it to brown a few 
 moments. Serve hot in a platter, the brown side up|>cr- 
 most. A beaten egg stirred in with the cabbage is an im- 
 provement. 
 
 Fried Cucumbers. 
 
 Take large cucumbers just ripe, but not old. Pare 
 them, cut into thick slices (half an inch). Scrape out 
 the seeds if large. Lay them in ice-water for half an 
 hour. Then wipe each piece dry. Dredge with flour, 
 and lay in a hot frying-pan in which is a large tablespoon- 
 ful of beef-dripping or lard. Fry slowly at first, so that 
 they will be done through. At the end of half an hour, 
 ]c]jer and salt them and turn them. Increase the heat, 
 prpper and salt the other side, and fry fifteen minutes 
 I'Mi-w, till tender enough to pierce with a straw. If there 
 is danger of burning add more grease while cooking. 
 
44 How to Cook Well 
 
 Tomatoes (raw). 
 
 With a sharp knife cut tomatoes into thick slices with- 
 out removing the skin. Lay them in a glass dish. Put 
 bits of ice on them, and set them in a cold place till the 
 last moment before serving. Be careful to do this, for a 
 flabby piece of tomato is not inviting. Cover with vinegar 
 at the last moment, pepper and salt bountifully and serve. 
 
 If you choose serve instead with tomato salad dressing. 
 
 If served without vinegar or dressing save what toma- 
 toes are left for " Fried Tomatoes." 
 
 Fried Tomatoes (No. 1). 
 
 1 egg, beaten light with 
 
 1 cupful cold milk. 
 
 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. Salt and pepper. 
 
 Beat hard. Into this dip thick slices of raw tomato with 
 the skin on. Put in a hot frying-pan with a large lump of 
 butter or beef-dripping. Fry slowly till tender and brown. 
 
 Escalloped Tomatoes. 
 
 Butter a deep pudding-dish. Put in a layer of cracker- 
 crumbs or stale bread-crumbs. Then a layer of tomatoes 
 (thickly sliced) with pepper and salt ; and a layer of crumbs 
 with bits of butter. Repeat in this order till the dish is 
 full, having the top layer of the crumbs. Moisten with a 
 few tablespoonfuls of water. Bake in a rather hot oven 
 half an hour. 
 
 Other Dishes for Breakfast. 
 
 (See Index.) 
 
 Beefsteak. 
 
 Mutton and Lamb Chops. 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 Stews (of all kinds) 
 Mutton a la Venison. 
 Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 German Potatoes. 
 
 Mashed Potato Balls. 
 Baked Tomatoes. 
 Fried Tomatoes (No. 2). 
 Devilled Tomatoes. 
 A Summer Medley. 
 Pea Fritters. 
 Corn Oysters. 
 Fresh Fish (all kinds). 
 
Breakfast. 45 
 
 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Before you begin to mix the cakes grease the pans, and 
 leave them to heat. They should be very hot before pour- 
 ing in the mixture, which should not be allowed to stand 
 after it is ready. The oven, too, must be hot, as all these 
 things need to be baked quickly, as well as beaten hard. 
 Have ready, always, a hot plate to put them on, so that 
 they will not fall by a too sudden change of temperature. 
 The sooner such things are eaten after baking, the better, 
 especially those which do not contain much flour. Warm 
 the knife before cutting any kind of tea cake. It will be 
 even lighter if broken apart. 
 
 Remember, then, three rules : Mix quickly, bake quickly, 
 and eat soon. 
 
 (For short-cake use pastry-flour, if you have it, as it 
 makes a more flaky cake than the other.) 
 
 Plain Muffins. 
 
 4 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved). 
 
 f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 j Flour to make a thick batter 
 I (about 3 cupfuls). 
 
 1 egg beaten light. 
 1A cupfuls milk. 
 
 2 table spoonful! butter 
 
 (melted). 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 Mix in this order. Beat hard ; have the muflin rings 
 hot, fill them half full ; and bake in a hot oven nearly half 
 an hour. Makes one dozen. 
 
 Raised Muffins. 
 
 1 quart warm milk. 
 1 cupful melted buttei (less will 
 do). 
 
 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 2 full tablespoon fuls yeast 
 
 Flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 1 teaspoon fill salt. 
 
 Mix in this order. Cover, and set to rise over night, if 
 you want them for breakfast. If for tea, set them four or 
 five hours before. When light pour gently into hot rings 
 
46 How to Cook Well. 
 
 (half-full) and bake at once in a quick oven about twenty 
 minutes. Makes one dozen. 
 
 Sweet Muffins. 
 
 2 h e a p i n g table spoonfuls 
 
 sugar. 
 
 cupful butter, 
 i teaspoonful salt. 
 4 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 ! : 
 
 quart flour (more or less). 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- 
 tar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved). 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Mix in this order. Beat hsrd, pour into hot muffin- 
 rings, fill them half-full, and bake in a quick oven about 
 twenty minutes. (If you choose use three teaspoonfuls of 
 baking powder, mixed through the flour; and omit the 
 cream of tartar and soda.) Makes one and one half dozen. 
 
 English Muffins. (No Butter or Milk.} 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 1 pint tepid water (more or 
 less). 
 
 li teaspoonfuls salt. 
 2 tablespoonfuls yeast. 
 1 egg (white only). 
 
 Add the water to the flour, a little at a time, till you 
 have enough for a very soft dough. Add the salt and 
 yeast. Cover, and set to rise in a warm place. When 
 light, beat up the white of the egg, and mix it in, with a 
 spoon, beating hard. Put into hot rings, fill them half- 
 full, and let them rise about ten minutes. Then bake at 
 once in a very quick oven about fifteen minutes. If you 
 Want the muffins for breakfast, set them at night ; if for tea, 
 about nine o'clock in the morning. 
 
 Makes one dozen. Improved by using more eggs, or 
 a small piece of butter. 
 
 Buttermilk Muffins. 
 
 1 pint sour or buttermilk. 
 
 1 pint flour. 
 
 1 table spoonful sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls butter melted. 
 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 Mix in order. Beat hard, and fill hot rings. Bake in 
 a very hot oven about fifteen minutes. Eat before they 
 
Breakfast. 47 
 
 fall. The success of these depends upon hard beating and 
 quick baking. Makes one dozen. 
 
 Bice or Hominy Muffins. 
 
 1 cupful boiled rice or hominy. 
 
 1 pint flour. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 2 or 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Butter, size of an egg (melted). 
 
 Mix. Beat hard. Fill hot muffin-rings to the top and 
 bake in a very hot oven, about half an hour. Makes one 
 dozen. 
 
 Alleghany Corn Muffins. 
 
 1 pt corn mcaL 
 1 pt. white flour. 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- 
 der. 
 
 4 capful sugar. 
 
 1 pt. milk or water. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 i cupful butter (melted). 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 Mix and beat hard. Bake in hot, greased muffin-rings, 
 about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. (Less butter will 
 do.) 
 
 North Carolina Corn Muffins. 
 
 1 quart corn meal. 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 Hot water. 
 
 8 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 tablespoonful shortening. 
 
 Mix together, using enough water to make a thick bat- 
 ter. Beat for ten minutes. Bake in muffin-rings, filled 
 full, fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 Quick Graham Biscuit. 
 
 1 pint graham flour. 
 1 pint wheat flour. 
 1 A teaspoonf uls salt. 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- 
 der. 
 
 1 heaping tablespoonful butter 
 
 or lard. 
 
 2 tablespoon f uls molasses. 
 
 li cupful* milk or water (more 
 or less.) 
 
 I )> not sift the Graham flour. Mix like "Baking Pow- 
 <lrr Biscuit," putting in the molasses and milk last of all. 
 
48 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Add more milk if the dough is too stiff to roll out. Roll 
 out about three quarters of an inch thick. Bake three 
 quarters of an hour in a moderately hot oven. Makes a 
 dripping-pan full. 
 
 Graham Gems. 
 
 2 eggs, well beaten. 
 1 table spoonful sugar. 
 
 2 cupf uls milk. 
 
 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 Mix in order. Beat hard. Heat gem-pans very hot. 
 Pour in the mixture, and bake in a pretty hot oven for 
 half an hour. 
 
 Makes one dozen. 
 
 Sour Milk Graham Gems. (Without Egg.} 
 
 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 
 
 1 cupful wheat flour. 
 
 li teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful brown 
 
 2 cupfuls sour milk. 
 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 1 tablespoonful melted but- 
 ter. 
 
 sugar. 
 
 Beat hard. Fill hot gem-pans nearly full, and bake 
 three quarters of an hour in a moderately hot oven. 
 Makes one dozen. 
 
 Raised Graham Gems. (No Milk or Eggs.} 
 
 1 pint Graham flour. 
 1 cupful wheat flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls molasses. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter or lard 
 
 melted. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls yeast. 
 If cupfuls tepid water. 
 
 Mix well together, and set in a pretty warm place, cov- 
 ered, to rise over night. In the morning, dip into hot 
 gem-pans (disturbing the batter as little as possible). Fill 
 pans full. Bake in a hot oven for half an hour. Makes 
 one dozen. 
 
 N". B. If the mixture seems sour in the morning, as it 
 very likely will, dissolve one quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 soda (or more) and mix into the batter. 
 
Breakfast. 
 
 49 
 
 Corn Bread. 
 
 2 cupf uls sour milk (or butter- 
 milk). 
 
 2 tablespoon f uls sugar. 
 2 tablespoon fuls flour. 
 1 egg beaten light. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul soda dissolved. 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 Corn meal to make a thick bat- 
 ter. 
 
 Be sure not to put in too much corn mc.il. Only 
 experience will teach how much to use. Bake in a shallow 
 loaf about twenty minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 What is left should be dried in the heater, then rolled 
 fine, and used for " Slapjacks " or " Corn Meal Pudding," 
 or for frying fish. 
 
 Cream Corn Bread. 
 
 1 pint corn meal. 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 1 cup (nearly) flour. 
 
 Boil the corn meal as for "Hasty Pudding" fully five 
 minutes. Leave it to get quite cold. Then add the other 
 ingredients, omitting the egg if you choose. Mix well to- 
 gether, pour into a hot pan, and bake about half an hour in 
 a quick oven. 
 
 Rich Corn Bread. 
 
 1 quart corn meal. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. [der. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 
 1 pint milk or water. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 1 scant cup butter (melted). 
 
 Mix all the dry ingredients together first, taking care to 
 have the baking-powder well incorporated with the rest. 
 Add the other things in order. Pour into hot pans, and 
 bake in a hot oven for about thirty-five minutes. 
 
50 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Rice Corn Bread. 
 
 (An old Virginia Receipt.) 
 
 1 pint boiled rice. 
 
 1 quart skim milk (very hot). 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 1 table spoonful melted lard. 
 
 2 or 3 eggs (beaten separately). 
 Corn meal for a medium batter. 
 2 teaspoonf uls baking-powder. 
 
 Pour the milk over the rice. When cool, add the other 
 ingredients, using the fine white meal. Scatter in the 
 baking-powder dry at the last. Bake three quarters of an 
 hour in an earthen dish in a moderate oven ; or a shorter 
 time, in muffin-rings, in a hot oven. 
 
 Makes two dozen muffins, or two medium-sized loaves. 
 
 Corn Bread (other ways). 
 
 See " Corn Meal Muffins." The receipts there given 
 may be baked in loaves. 
 
 St. Charles Pone; 
 
 1 pint fine white Indian meal. 
 
 1 pint milk (sweet or sour). 
 
 2 eggs beaten light. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul butter (melted). 
 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 
 Mix and beat well, adding one teaspoonful of cream of 
 tartar if the milk is sweet. Bake nearly half an hour in 
 a quick oven. Makes a small loaf. (One egg will do.) 
 
 Johnny Cake. 
 
 (1 quart Indian meal. 
 1 quart sour milk, or butter- 
 milk. 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 2 or 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 tablespoonful lard (melted). 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 Mix, beat well, and bake in a thin loaf about fifteen 
 minutes in a quick oven. 
 Serve with maple syrup. 
 
Breakfast. 51 
 
 Hominy Bread. 
 
 2 cupfuls small hominy (boiled). 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter (melted). 
 
 4 eggs, beaten light. 
 1 pint corn meal. 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Mix in this order. Beat hard. Have two pans hot, fill 
 them half full and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. 
 Eat hot. This is particularly delicate and delicious. The 
 loaves should be shallow. Enough for a family of six. 
 
 Pop Overs. 
 
 2 eggs (separated). 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 teaspoonful melted butter. 
 
 1 pint milk (sour). 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved). 
 
 1 pint flour. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs. Add salt, butter and milk, 
 with the soda. Lastly, the flour, put in alternately with 
 the beaten whites of the eggs. Beat very light. The bat- 
 ter is so thin that it is a good plan to use a Dover Egg- 
 beater to mix it instead of a spoon. Heat earthen cups or 
 round gem-pans very hot. Butter them, and fill half full 
 with the batter. Bake twenty minutes in a very hot oven, 
 taking care not to open the oven door during the first ten 
 minutes, and not to jar the pans, as they fall very easily. 
 Eat at once. Makes one dozen. Use sweet milk if you 
 like and omit the soda. 
 
 Sally Lunn. 
 
 2 eggs beaten light 
 4 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 3 cupfuls flour. 
 
 2 tcaspoonfuls cream tartar. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 3 flat tablespoonfuls butter, 
 melted. 
 
 Put in the flour and milk alternately, rubbing the cream 
 of tartar through the flour before adding it. Have the 
 pan hot ; fill it half-full, and bake in a rather hot oven, 
 about half an hour, increasing the heat towards the last. 
 
 (Add siiornr, if you like. Less butter may be used if 
 more milk is added, say two tablespoonfuls butter to one 
 
52 How to Cook Well. 
 
 and one half cups of milk.) One and one half cups of 
 huckleberries may be added. 
 
 Sally Limn (raised). 
 
 1 pint light bread-dough. 
 6 tablespoonf uls sugar. 
 
 2 heaping tablespoonf uls butter, 
 
 cupful milk, sweet or sour. 
 teaspoonf ul cinnamon. 
 cupful flour, more or less. 
 
 melted. 
 
 The flour should be enough for a rather stiff batter. 
 Beat hard. Pour into a buttered baking pan, and set to 
 rise in a warm place till light (about four hours). Bake 
 at once in the same pan, in a rather hot oven, for about 
 half an hour. 
 
 If you like crust, dip the batter carefully into hot gem- 
 pans and bake. This will fill one and one half dozen gem- 
 pans. (Improved by one egg added when you set it.) 
 
 Lottie's Cream Tea Cake. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cupful sour cream. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 2 eggs beaten light. 
 
 Stir the flour, sugar and salt together ; then stir the 
 soda into the cream dissolving it very thoroughly and stir 
 it at once into the flour, etc. (If it is left standing it will 
 foam and run over the cup.) Add the eggs, and beat all 
 together rapidly. Bake in a loaf in a moderate oven three 
 quarters of an hour filling the pan only half-full. Increase 
 the heat towards the last. Have ready a hot plate to serve 
 it on, and warm the knife before cutting the cake. 
 
 Huckleberry Tea Cake. 
 
 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 ^ cupful butter. 
 
 li cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 cupful sour or buttermilk. 
 
 cupfuls flour. 
 
 pint huckleberries or blue- 
 berries. 
 
 Rub butter and sugar to a cream, add the other ingre- 
 dients in the order given. Bake in a loaf in a moderate 
 oven about half an hour; increase the heat toward the last. 
 
Breakfast. 53 
 
 Plain Huckleberry Tea Cake. 
 
 (See " Sally Lunn.") 
 Plain Breakfast Cake. 
 
 1 quart flour (scant). 
 
 4 teaspoon fuls cream tartar. 
 
 1 teaspoouf ul salt. 
 
 4 cup sugar (or less). 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 2 teaspoon fuls soda dissolved. 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 Mix thoroughly, beat hard. (If you choose omit the 
 sugar and one egg.) Put into a warm, buttered square 
 pan, and bake in a pretty hot oven about half an hour, 
 taking care to keep the heat steady. Put on the table 
 whole, on a hot plate. Cut it in squares, previously warm- 
 ing the knife, and eat hot. 
 
 Enough for seven persons. This mixture is good baked 
 in hot gem-pans ; it will make twenty gems. 
 
 General Washington's Breakfast Cake. 
 
 :1 quart milk. 9 
 
 1 tablespoon ful butter. 
 2 pounds flour. 
 
 2 teaspoon fuls salt 
 1 cupful yeast. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 Mix about nine in the evening as follows : 
 
 Warm the milk and butter together. When lukewarm 
 stir in the flour. Add salt, yeast and eggs. Beat all well 
 together. Grease two deep, large pans. Pour in the bat- 
 ter, filling pans only half-full, and set it to rise over night 
 in a warm place. In the morning bake it in the same 
 pans, without disturbing the batter. The oven should be 
 hot, and it should bake three quarters of an hour, with 
 sU'.-idy heat. 
 
 This was always on General Washington's breakfast 
 table the last few years of his life. 
 
 For a family of ten. 
 
54 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Short Cake. 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. [der. 
 
 1 cupful butter (or half lard). 
 1 cupful hot milk (full). 
 
 1 3 teaspoonfuls baking pow- 
 
 Mix as directed for " Baking Powder Biscuit." 
 Roll out lightly on the bread-board (adding no more 
 flour) about one inch thick. With a knife, cut into square 
 cakes, and bake in a dripping-pan ; or butter three tin pie- 
 plates, and with a pan of the same size, cut the dough 
 into three circular loaves to fit them. Bake in a hot oven, 
 about fifteen minutes, taking care not to let the crust 
 harden on top. If there is danger of this, cover with a 
 thick paper, or set a pan of cold water on the oven-shelf 
 above. Serve hot, with butter. 
 Makes three loaves. 
 
 Sour Milk Short Cake. 
 
 2 cupf uls sour milk (or butter- 
 milk). 
 
 | cupful butter or lard 
 (melted). 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved). 
 
 l teaspoonfuls salt. 
 Flour to make a soft dough. 
 
 Put the milk into the mixing-bowl. Add the butter. 
 Then stir in the soda rapidly. Add the salt and flour. 
 Put the dough on the bread-board, and roll out about one 
 inch thick, handling it no more than is necessary. With 
 a deep round pan, just the size of the pie-plates you mean 
 to bake it in, cut out into large rounds, by turning the pan 
 upside down. Lay in the pie-plates, and bake in a very 
 quick oven, about fifteen minutes. 
 
 Serve hot with butter. This makes two loaves. It is a 
 particularly nice short cake. 
 
 Millville Short Cake. 
 
 cupfuls flour. [der. 
 
 teaspoonfuls baking pow- 
 
 large tablespoonf ul butter, 
 cupful milk. 
 
 | teaspoonful salt. 
 
 Mix as directed for " Baking Powder Biscuit." 
 
Breakfast. 55 
 
 When mixed turn on bread-board, and with as little 
 handling as possible, roll out into one thick sheet, shaping 
 it as you go, to fit a small pie-plate. Put it into that, and 
 by shaking, bring into still better shape. Hake in a very 
 hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. Serve hot, to be eaten 
 with butter. 
 
 Makes one small loaf. 
 
 Fruit Short Cake. 
 
 Mix and bake any of the preceding short cakes. As 
 soon as done, split by pulling apart with the fingers (on no 
 account use a knife or it will be heavy). Butter the inside 
 of both halves while hot. Spread the under one thickly 
 with one and one half quarts berries (or fruit of any kind) 
 which have been standing sugared for half an hour. Put 
 the juice over the berries. Put back the top half of the 
 short cake, and leave to get cold. 
 
 Before serving, sift powdered sugar over the top. Some 
 persons heap more berries on top. 
 
 Eat cold with cream and sugar, the same day it is 
 baked. 
 
 Strawberry Short Cake. 
 
 Fruit Short Cake.) 
 
 Currant Short Cake. 
 
 This refreshing short cake for breakfast on a hot morn- 
 ing is made according to directions for " Fruit Short 
 Cake," as above. 
 
 Raspberry Short Cake. 
 
 This is by many preferred to Strawberry Short Cake. 
 See ' Fruit Short Cake," as above. 
 
 Apple Short Cake. 
 
 Make a short cake by any receipt given above. Butter 
 while hot, and fill with a stiff apple sauce made very sweet, 
 and seasoned while hot with butter and nutmeg. Serve 
 
56 How to Cook Well. 
 
 cold with sugar and cream. This is quickly and easily 
 made, and furnishes something nice when other fruit is 
 out of season. 
 
 Peach Short Cake. 
 
 Peel, slice, and sugar ripe peaches, and let them stand 
 for half an hour. Then proceed as with " Fruit Short 
 Cake." 
 
 Canned peaches may be used. 
 
 GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 
 
 KEMAKKS. 
 
 If possible, procure a soapstone griddle. It needs no 
 greasing, and therefore makes no disagreeable smell 
 through the house. If you have only an ordinary griddle 
 and must use grease, do it with a rag tied on the end of a 
 stick, and put on as little as possible only enough to 
 keep the cakes from sticking, not enough to make them 
 greasy. Have the griddle hot before beginning to fry the 
 cakes. It is well to try a very little of the batter first, 
 both to make sure that the consistency of the batter is 
 right, and that the griddle is of the right temperature. 
 Allow a tablespoonf ul of batter to each cake ; except Buck- 
 wheat Cakes, which should be larger; this can be attained 
 by pouring from a cup. When the edges of each cake 
 look dry, it is time to turn it. Do this with a tin spatula, 
 not a knife. When done on the other side, put at once on 
 a hot plate, in a pile, not scattered about, as that causes 
 them to cool. When the griddle is emptied, grease again, 
 and pour on a fresh supply of batter. If the cakes are 
 doughy inside, the griddle is too hot ; if dry and tough, it 
 is not hot enough. 
 
 Serve Buckwheat Cakes with maple syrup or molasses ; 
 more delicate cakes with sugar, or sugar and cinnamon 
 
Breakfast. 57 
 
 previously mixed together, and put into a sifter, such as is 
 used for salt. 
 
 N. B. If any batter is left, after frying griddle cakes, 
 bake it at once in gem-pans, first adding a little flour. If 
 kept, to be used for cakes next morning, add two or three 
 eggs to the batter, otherwise it will not be light. 
 
 Unequalled Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 quart buckwheat flour. 
 
 tablespoonfuls wheat flour. 
 
 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 cupfuls yeast. 
 f 1 pint fresh milk (warm). 
 I 4 pint warm water. 
 
 Set them at nine o'clock in the evening, for breakfast. 
 Mix well together the first four ingredients, in order. 
 Then add the milk and water, previously mixed together. 
 Beat all together very hard. Cover and leave to rise. In 
 the morning the top will IHJ covered with bubbles. The 
 cakes must be light, thick and spongy. If too thick add 
 a little warm water. Do not have the griddle too hot, 
 as, being thick, they will not then cook in the middle. 
 Hake them the size of a HID all saucer. 
 
 (If sour in the morning add half a teaspoonful or more 
 soda, dissolved in boiling water.) 
 
 N. B. Buckwheat Cakes, in my opinion, should be set 
 fresh every time to be sure of their not being sour. Yet 
 in many families it is customary to reserve a cupful of the 
 batter every time to set the next with. In this case mix 
 as usual, simply substituting the batter for the yeast. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes with Water. 
 
 1 quart buckwheat flour. 
 I taiiU'spoonfuls corn meal. 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 4 tablespoon fuls yeast. 
 1 pint tepid water (more or 
 less). 
 
 3 tablespoonf uls molasses. 
 
 Mix as early as six o'clock in the evening. Use enough 
 
58 How to Cook Well 
 
 water to make a thick batter (if too thin it will not rise). 
 Beat well, and set to rise in a warm place, covered. 
 
 In the morning, if sour (as it is almost invariably) stir 
 in one teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a little warm water. 
 If it still smells sour, add more. The batter will be thinner 
 now than it was when first set, but it should still be a 
 thick batter. If too thin, add a little wheat flour, if too 
 thick, add tepid water. 
 
 For a family of five. 
 
 Buck-eye Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 :2 quarts boiling water. 
 1 cupful corn meal. 
 1 cupful wheat flour. 
 
 3 pints buckwheat flour. 
 
 1 cupful yeast (shaken). 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 At noon of the day before you wish to use the cakes, 
 stir the corn meal (wet with a little cold water) into the 
 boiling water on the stove. Boil till it forms a thin 
 gruel. Let it cool, but not become cold ; then add the 
 other ingredients. Beat well, cover, and set to rise in a 
 warm place. 
 
 In the evening, beat well again, cover, and set to rise in 
 a cool place till morning. 
 
 Before breakfast, add one teaspoonful of soda (dissolved 
 in warm water) if it seems sour. If too thick add warm 
 water, but do not make a thin batter of it. Do not have 
 the griddle too hot. 
 
 Oatmeal Griddle Cakes. (No Eygs or Milk.) 
 
 2 cups flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls baking pow- 
 der. 
 
 2 cups cold boiled oatmeal. 
 2 tablespoonfuls molasses. 
 2i cups water (more or less). 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 The three first ingredients must be mixed together 
 thoroughly before adding anything else. In putting in 
 the water, which must come last, be sure you do not get 
 in too much (the batter should be thick). Try a little of 
 
Breakfast. 59 
 
 the batter before making the cakes. If too thick, add 
 water; if too thin, add flour. Do not have the griddle 
 too hot. For a family of six. 
 
 Graham Griddle Cakes. (No Eyys or Milk.) 
 
 /- 44 cups Graham flour. 
 j 14 cups wheat flour. 
 1 4 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 1 tablespoon ful molasses. 
 
 1 quart tepid water. 
 
 4 cupful yeast (shaken). 
 
 Set to rise over night. Before breakfast add half a 
 tcnspoonful soda (dissolved in a little warm water). 
 For a family of six. 
 
 Bread Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Pour over stale pieces of bread boiling water enough to 
 rather more than cover them. Cover close and soak 
 about one hour. When soft, drain off every drop of wa- 
 ter, squeeze dry, and mash through a colander. (If still 
 very moist, set in the heater awhile.) 
 
 Then take 
 
 3 cupfuls soaked crumbs. 
 
 4 teaspoonful salt. 
 1 egg beaten light. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 1 heaping cupful flour. 
 
 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 Beat well together and fry. If you find you cannot 
 turn the cakes without breaking them, add a little more 
 flour. (Another egg is an improvement.) One tablespoon- 
 ful molasses may be added. It makes the cakes brown 
 nicely. 
 
 Buttermilk Griddle Cakes. 
 
 1 quart buttermilk (or sour 
 milk). 
 
 Flour to make a medium batter. 
 2 teas poo nf uls soda, dissolved. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls salt, nearly. 
 
 Mix in order, beat hard, and do not put in the soda till 
 just before frying the cakes. Improved by the addition 
 of one eg;:. 
 
 For a family of six. 
 
60 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Hominy Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Make like Buttermilk Griddle Cakes, with the addition 
 of one cupful cold boiled hominy (finest kind). Use a little 
 less flour. 
 
 Another with Eggs. 
 
 1 pint boiled hominy (fine kind) . 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 2 or 3 eggs beaten light. 
 2 cups flour. 
 
 l cupfuls milk (more or less). 
 1 dessert spoonful melted but- 
 ter, 
 i teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 The hominy must not be hot when the eggs are put in. 
 Use milk enough to make a batter just stiff enough to 
 support a drop. The butter may be omitted if you use 
 three eggs. 
 
 Rice Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Like the last receipt, substituting rice for hominy. 
 Another without Eggs. 
 
 1 cupful cold boiled rice. 
 1 quart sweet or sour milk. 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 i cupful melted butter. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 Soak the rice in the milk a little while. Mix in order. 
 Beat hard. Test the batter before frying the cakes. If 
 they break add more flour. 
 
 Very delicate and nice. 
 
 Slapjacks. 
 
 Pour over four cupfuls corn meal sufficient boiling 
 water to make it very damp. Mix well. Add 
 
 1 or 2 eggs beaten light. 
 
 2 cupfuls milk. 
 
 2i teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful molasses. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 Mix and beat well. If they break in turning add more 
 flour. Cold Corn Bread crumbs (dried and rolled fine) 
 may be used instead of the meal, in which case use more 
 of them, or put less milk. 
 
Breakfast. 61 
 
 What batter is left over, bake at once as Cora Bread, 
 which can be steamed for breakfast next day. 
 For a family of six. 
 
 Pancakes. 
 
 11 pint flour. 
 
 i teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten very light. 
 
 v \ tcaspooiif ul baking-powder. 
 
 Mix the dry things thoroughly together. Then add the 
 milk, stirring it in till the batter is perfectly smooth ; 
 lastly, beat in the eggs. (A few spoonfuls of freshly 
 fallen snow make pancakes very light. It should be 
 added the hist thing before frying.) Have the frying- 
 pan very hot, and grease it well with lard. Pour in 
 enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan. Turn the 
 cake when half done. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon 
 or spread with jelly ; roll up as you would a sheet of 
 paper ; and lay on a hot plate. Serve when a plateful is 
 ready. 
 
 Pancakes should not be allowed to stand at all after be- 
 ing mixed, before they are fried. 
 
 English Pancakes. 
 
 Like the last receipt, but omit the baking powder and 
 use four eggs. Add at the last a little grated nutmeg and 
 one tablespoonful brandy. 
 
 Flannel Cakes. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 3 tablcspoonf uls yeast. 
 
 Flour to make a rather thick batter. 
 
 Piece butter size of an egg. 
 
 2 eggs, well beaten. 
 
 Beat hard together the first four ingredients at night, if 
 you want them for breakfast ; early in the day, if for tea. 
 
62 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Set them to rise, covered. When light (i. e. bubbly) add 
 the butter (melted) and the eggs ; and fry at once like 
 other griddle-cakes. 
 
 Waffles. 
 
 1 pint sour or buttermilk. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 3 teaspoonf uls melted butter. 
 
 3 eggs (separated). 
 
 Flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 
 Beat all together, adding the soda just before cooking. 
 Grease the waffle-iron thoroughly. (Or, use sweet milk 
 and two teaspoonf uls baking-powder in place of the soda.) 
 
 Risen Waffles. 
 
 
 
 1| quart flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 cupful yeast. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 Butter size of egg (melted). 
 
 Set at night for breakfast, or early in the day for tea. 
 Beat together the first four ingredients. Let them stand 
 till light. Then add the eggs and butter. Beat hard, and 
 bake. 
 
 Rich Waffles. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 | teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 | cupful butter (melted). 
 
 4 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 f 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- 
 
 der. 
 Flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 Beat all together, previously mixing the baking-powder 
 through a part of the flour. Then bake. 
 
 N. B. Sour milk may be used by substituting for the 
 baking powder two teaspoonf uls of soda. 
 
Jireakfast. 63 
 
 Rice Waffles. 
 
 li cupfuls boiled rice. 
 1 pint milk, hot. 
 1 pint milk, cold. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. 
 4 eggs, well-beaten. 
 Flour. 
 
 Mix the rice and hot milk very smoothly togethei ; then 
 stir in the cold milk. Add the salt and the eggs, mixing 
 thoroughly. Lastly stir in gradually enough flour to make 
 a stiff batter. Proceed aa with other wafflea. 
 
LUNCHEON. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 IN many families it is the custom for the ladies to have 
 lunch in the middle of the day, and to reserve the more 
 hearty meal of dinner till the gentlemen have returned 
 from business and can share it with them at the close of 
 the day. 
 
 A home lunch is, therefore, an informal affair, usually 
 arranged with but one course, everything being placed on 
 the table at once. The lunch-parties which fashionable 
 ladies give to their lady friends are quite different. For 
 these, preparations are made as elaborate as suit the taste 
 of the hostess. 
 
 I have not undertaken to arrange this department of my 
 book with a view to these fashionable gatherings, but have 
 merely made a collection of dishes suitable to a family- 
 lunch ; at the same time trying to give a somewhat wide 
 range to choose from ; so that both those who live simply 
 and those who require a more hearty meal will be suited. 
 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Butter bread (a day old) on the loaf. Spread with a lit- 
 tle made mustard or " Salad Dressing," if you have any. 
 Cut the bread very thin. When two slices are ready, lay 
 them together, with thin shavings of ham or tongue be- 
 tween. With a sharp knife, cut each sandwich in half. 
 
 Another Way is to chop fine, ham, chicken, or tongue, 
 season it highly, and spread on the bread. If you use 
 ham, use a little of the fat with the lean. 
 
 64 
 
Luncheon. 65 
 
 Delicious sandwiches and cheaper ones can be made by 
 mincing fine, raw beefsteak. Season only with pepper and 
 salt. These are excellent for invalids. 
 
 Rolled Sandwiches. 
 
 Chop very fine equal quantities of cold chicken and 
 tongue. Add two thirds of teaspoonful of celery salt, a 
 pinch of cayenne pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of "May- 
 onnaise Dressing." This is enough to season the breast 
 of a large chicken and as much tongue. Spread on very 
 thin slices of bread and butter, from which the crust has 
 been cut off. Roll them up as you would a piece of paper 
 and pile in a plate. 
 
 Any sandwiches of chopped meat can bo rolled, if the 
 bread Is cut sufficiently thin and the crust trimmed off. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 
 Pass a few anchovies through a sieve. Mix with them 
 a little melted butter and red pepper. Spread the mixture 
 on both sides of a piece of toast. Lay a " Poached Egg " 
 on each piece of toast aud serve hot. 
 
 Savory Toast. 
 
 Mince a cupful of cold ham, fowl, or veal, and season 
 with salt and pepper. If you use ham, omit the salt and 
 add a little mustard ; if fowl or veal, add celery salt. 
 Mix one beaten egg with the meat ; spread between thin 
 slices of bread and toast slightly. 
 
 (Oysters may be parboiled, chopped and mixed with 
 "Cream Sauce," and spread when cold between thin 
 slices of bread and toasted in the same way.) 
 
 Butter the top of each and serve hot. 
 
66 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Ramakin Toast. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cheese, grated. 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 1 egg, yolk only. 
 
 \ teaspoonful mustard. 
 | teaspoonful red pepper. 
 A little salt. 
 
 Mix all together ; spread the mixture thickly on a sl'.ce 
 of toast, and brown before the fire. 
 
 Welsh. Rarebit. 
 
 Cheese, the size of teacup. 
 1 large cupful of milk. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 A pinch of mustard, dry. 
 
 A little red pepper. 
 
 2 large crackers, rolled fine. 
 
 1 egg well beaten. 
 
 Cut the cheese in small, thin slices. Put it in the fry- 
 ing-pan with the milk. Add the butter, egg, mustard and 
 spices. Stir in the crackers gradually. When all is 
 thoroughly mixed, turn the mixture out, and serve in a 
 covered dish. Eat with dry toast. Or serve spread on 
 
 toast. 
 
 Cheese Fondue. 
 
 Weight of 2 eggs in cheese. | 4 eggs beaten separately. 
 Weight of 2 eggs in butter. I Salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Grate the cheese. Beat it thoroughly into the butter 
 and yolks. Season. Last stir in the whites. Bake in a 
 quick oven twenty minutes, and serve immediately on tak- 
 ing out in the same dish. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 Saratoga Potatoes. 
 
 Slice raw potatoes very thin. Put them into very cold 
 water for half an hour or on the ice to chill them. Then 
 drain and dry them thoroughly between two towels. 
 Have ready a pound of lard at the boiling point in a deep 
 kettle. Drop in a few pieces of potato, and keep them 
 separated from each other, as well as you can, while they 
 
Luncheon. 67 
 
 fry. When delicately browned take them out with a 
 skimmer, and drain on a sieve, at the same time sprink- 
 ling them with salt. 
 
 The browning will be hastened if the potatoes are taken 
 from the kettle when partly cooked and exposed to the 
 air for an instant, before you finish frying them. Two or 
 three large potatoes will make a dishful. Serve cold or 
 hot. A pretty way to serve them is to spread them over 
 a platter, and lay chicken or veal croquettes at intervals, 
 with sprigs of parsley around each croquette. 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Potato. 
 
 f Cold boiled potatoes. 
 
 I 4 cupful milk. 
 
 ( 3 table-spoonfuls butter. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 Chop|>ed parsley. 
 4 lemon (juice only). 
 
 Put the milk and butter into a sauce-pan already hot, 
 with the potatoes, sliced rather thick. After a moment, 
 add the seasoning and parsley. Heat all together quickly, 
 stirring constantly. As you are about to dish it, stir in 
 quickly the lemon juice. Serve in a covered dish. 
 
 Potatoes with Giblets. 
 
 Cold boiled potatoes. 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 1 cupful broth from boiled 
 chicken. 
 
 Giblets from 2 chickens. 
 1 tabk-spoonful tlotir. 
 1 tablcspoonful butter. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Cut the potatoes into pieces the size and shape of small 
 dice, while the milk and chicken-broth are heating on the 
 stove. When they begin to boil add the giblets (chopped 
 fine). If raw let them stew for ten minutes; if cooked, 
 less time will do. Thicken, when done, with the flour 
 (previously wet with cold water), and add butter and sea- 
 soning. Put in the potatoes, and let them get thoroughly 
 hot, taking care not to break them by too much stirring. 
 
 If you have no broth, "Giblet Gravy " can be substituted 
 for that and the raw giblets. 
 
68 How to Cook Well. 
 
 German Potatoes. 
 
 Choose large smooth potatoes, and bake them. When 
 all but done, scoop out the inside from a small hole at 
 the top. Season and mash the potato, and mix with it 
 some sausage meat (cooked). Put back in the skins, and 
 replace in the oven till very hot and tender. 
 
 Kentucky or Escaloped Potatoes. 
 
 Cut into thin slices either cold boiled, or raw potatoes. 
 
 Butter a baking-dish, and put in the potatoes in layers, 
 with salt, pepper, and bits of butter. Moisten with milk 
 or cream enough to cover the potatoes. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven a full hour if the potatoes are raw, less time in 
 a quick oven if already boiled. 
 
 For those who like onion it gives a pleasant flavor to 
 run the knife through a raw onion several times while slic- 
 ing the potatoes. 
 
 Fried Tomatoes (No. 2). 
 
 Cut raw tomatoes into thick slices, leaving the skin on. 
 Lay them on a platter, and dredge thickly with flour. 
 Lay them, then, with the floured side down, in a hot fry- 
 ing-pan, containing a large lump of butter, lard, or beef- 
 dripping, boiling hot. Fry slowly till brown. Dredge 
 the upper side with flour. Turn, and brown the other 
 side. Sprinkle the upper side now, with pepper and salt. 
 When tender and browned, lay the slices of tomato on a 
 clean hot platter. Add cream or milk to the grease in 
 the pan, and dredge in flour. Let it come to a boil. Pour 
 over the tomatoes and serve hot. 
 
 Devilled Tomatoes. 
 
 1 hard-boiled egg, yolk only. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. 
 1 teaspoonful sugar. 
 
 4 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 | teaspoonful dry mustard. 
 l tablespoonfuls vinegar. 
 1 raw egg (beaten light). 
 1 pint tomatoes. 
 
 A little pepper. 
 
 Rub the yolk of the boiled egg till fine, like powder. 
 
Luncheon. 69 
 
 Mix in the butter, sugar, salt, pepper and mustard. Be 
 sure these are well mingled. Then add the vinegar. Set 
 on the stove, within a pan of boiling water. Heat almost 
 to a boil. Add the beaten egg, stirring quickly, so as not 
 to curdle. Set on the back part of the stove to keep hot, 
 while you slice the tomatoes (thick) and broil them over 
 hot coals. 
 
 Lay the tomatoes in a platter and pour the hot sauco 
 over. 
 
 Baked Tomatoes. 
 
 Butter a deep dish. Skin the tomatoes (or not), lay 
 them in whole. Sprinkle over them salt and fine crumbs 
 of bread or cracker. Put small bits of butter plentifully 
 over the top and between the tomatoes. Bake nearly 
 three quarters of an hour. If they look too dry on top 
 before they are done, dip a very little boiling water over 
 the tops, and lay on more butter. 
 
 Serve in the same dish. (Easily cooked, and excellent.) 
 
 Stuffed Baked Tomatoes. 
 
 Choose large, firm tomatoes, of a good round shape. 
 Cut out a round place in the top. With a small sharp 
 knife, take out all the inside, leaving enough around the 
 inner side of the skin to keep the shape. 
 
 Chop what you have taken out, and mix with it stale 
 bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, a little melted butter, and a 
 very little finely minced onion or green corn. Mix well 
 together, and with a teaspoon fill the tomatoes with the 
 mixture. 
 
 Put them in a deep dish, thickly buttered. Bake in a 
 slow oven nearly three quarters of an hour. When half- 
 done lay bits of butter on top of each tomato. 
 
 Serve in the same dish. 
 
70 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes. 
 (A Turkish Dish.} 
 
 Scoop out the inside of tomatoes, as above. Chop fine, 
 and mix with part of it a little rare beef, minced fine and 
 seasoned highly with cloves and marjoram, pepper and 
 salt. Add one third as much raw rice, well washed and 
 soaked. Fill the tomatoes, and lay them in the bottom 
 of a large round skillet. Cover, and stew very slowly till 
 tender (about three quarters of an hour) without adding 
 water. 
 
 Corn Pudding. 
 
 12 ears of corn, grated. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul melted butter. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls pounded crack- 
 
 er or flour. 
 
 2 or 3 eggs. 
 
 Mix all together (adding a dredging more of flour if 
 the corn is very young). Put in a buttered pudding dish 
 and bake in a moderate hot oven about one hour, covered 
 until the last ten minutes. Then brown quickly. (Old 
 corn may be used for this.) Serve as a vegetable. 
 
 Baked Hominy. 
 
 Large. Butter a pudding-dish. Fill it with boiled 
 hominy, with bits of butter at intervals. Pour over all a 
 little milk and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. 
 
 Fine. Same as above, but beat into the hominy two 
 or three yolks of eggs ; the more there are the better the 
 dish will be. 
 
 Baked Bice. 
 
 1 pint boiled rice. 
 
 1 pint milk, very hot. 
 
 i tablespoonf ul melted butter. 
 
 | teaspoonful salt. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten separately. 
 
 4 cupful flour. 
 
 Pour the milk over the rice. When cool beat in the 
 other ingredients. Beat all thoroughly, taking care to 
 
Luncheon. 71 
 
 leave no lumps of rice. Pour into a buttered pudding 
 dish, and bake in a hot oven about half an hour. Serve 
 at once as a vegetable. 
 
 To Vary it, omit eggs, and add a little grated cheese 
 arid red pepper. Put bits of butter over the top and 
 bake, covered at first. 
 
 Baked Macaroni. 
 
 Put boiled macaroni (hot or cold) into a buttered pud- 
 ding-dish in layers with bits of butter and jdenty of thickly 
 grated cheese. Fill the dish more than half full of milk, 
 and put a layer of fine, grated bread-crumbs on top. Cover 
 this with bits of butter. Bake in a very quick oven about 
 ten minutes, till nicely browned on top. 
 
 Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Butter a deep, large dish. Put a layer of macaroni 
 (boiled) in it, then a layer of "Tomato Sauce," etc., till 
 the dish is full. Have sauce on top. Brown in a very 
 hot oven for five minutes. What is left, use for soup. 
 
 Stuffed Egg-plant. 
 
 1 large purple egg-plant. 
 f 1 cupful milk 
 \ 1 cupful breadcrumbs. 
 I Pepper and salt. 
 
 Cut the top off the egg-plant. Scrape or cutout all the 
 inside, and boil this till thoroughly done in cold water. 
 Mix into it while hot the milk, bread-crumbs, pepper and 
 salt. Fill the shell with the stuffing, and bake a quarter 
 of an hour in a very hot oven, basting it once or twice 
 with butter. 
 
 The stuffing may be made richer by adding a little 
 minced salt pork, onion, and parsley. Use what is left 
 for " An Appetizing Breakfast Dish." 
 
72 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Cold Slaw or Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Crisp a firm head of cabbage by laying it in cold water 
 for half an hour. Then shave it fine, and pour over it vine- 
 gar with pepper and salt, or the following dressing when 
 cold. 
 
 f Butter size of a walnut. 
 
 -I i teaspoonful mustard (dry). 
 
 1 1 tablespoonf ul flour. 
 
 1 egg yolk only. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cream. 
 A little salt and pepper. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. 
 
 Rub butter, mustard and flour together, and add vine- 
 gar. Boil a minute. Then pour it on the beaten egg, 
 add cream, and salt and pepper. Return to the fire (set 
 in a pan of hot water) and stir a moment. Set away at 
 once to get cold. 
 
 Serve the Cold Slaw cold. 
 
 Hot Slaw. 
 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 A little flour. 
 J cupful vinegar. 
 
 i teaspoonful mustard, dry. 
 A teaspoonful of butter, soft. 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 Mix the flour smooth in the milk till you have put in 
 enough to make it the consistency of cream. Add the 
 other ingredients and cook as in " Cold Slaw." When it 
 has boiled up once pour it while hot over cabbage, previ- 
 ously shredded. Keep in a pan of hot water a few minutes, 
 then serve. This is particularly nice. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. 
 Lambs' Tongues with Sauce Piquante. 
 
 Parboil fresh tongues in salted water. Remove the 
 skin. Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Put in a 
 sauce-pan, and half cover with water or stock. Add a 
 small onion, chopped fine, and one teaspoonful of herbs 
 (any kind you like). Stew till tender about two hours. 
 Serve on a platter, with " Sauce Piquante " poured over 
 them. 
 
Luncfieon. 78 
 
 Pickled Lambs' Tongues. 
 
 Boil the tongues till tender. Skin them, but do not cut 
 off the roots. Drop them into cold vinegar with pepper 
 and a few whole cloves, also a little allspice. Let them 
 lie in this at least twelve hours before serving. 
 
 Slice the tongues if you prefer. 
 
 Calf's or Beefs Heart. 
 
 Do not soak, but wash it thoroughly. Then sprinkle 
 with pepper and salt. Fill it with a stuffing. Butter a 
 paper and tie over the top, to keep in the stuffing. Bake 
 in a very slow oven, nearly two hours, having poured one 
 cupful of boiling water in the bottom of the pan. Baste 
 it about once in ten minutes. When tender, take off the 
 paper and lay the heart on a dish. Set the pan on top of 
 the stove and make a gravy to pour over it. Add minced 
 onion to the gravy, if you like, or "Tomato Catsup." 
 An agreeable addition is to lay "Baked Tomatoes" 
 around the dish. 
 
 Dolmathes. 
 (A Turkish Dish.) 
 
 Rare roast beef, or any cold meat. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Pepper. 
 
 Ground cinnamon. 
 
 Ground cloves. 
 
 Rice, raw and well washed. 
 
 Tender grape-leaves. 
 
 Mince the meat and season as above. Mix it well with 
 the rice, in proportion one third meat to two thirds rice. 
 Scald the grape leaves, and wrap a little of the mixture in 
 each, to about the size of half an egg. Pin with a locust, 
 or other thorn, if to be had. If not, tie with a thread, 
 and lay them in a skillet. Cover well with boiling water, 
 and simmer one hour. Dish carefully. 
 
74 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Sauce for Dolmathes. 
 
 A little flour. 
 
 Liquor from the skillet. 
 
 2 eggs well beaten. 
 
 1 or 2 lemons, juice only. 
 
 Mix the flour smooth with a little cold water, and stir 
 into the boiling liquor. Then put in the eggs, stirring 
 without ceasing a moment, until cooked and smooth. Add 
 the juice of one or two lemons, according to the quantity, 
 for it must be quite acid, and pour over the dish. 
 
 Dolmathes (varied). 
 
 Make as above, but use narrow squashes in place of 
 grape-leaves. Cut off one end of the squash, and remove 
 part of the centre. This is even nicer than the grape- 
 leaves, as they are in this country usually too tough to eat ; 
 still, they give a fine flavor. In Turkey a large, tender 
 sorrel-leaf was often used. 
 
 Frogs. 
 
 Use only the hind-quarters. Scald them in boiling 
 water; then rub them with lemon juice and boil three 
 minutes. Wipe them ; then "egg and crumb" them, and 
 fry till brown, in hot lard and butter mixed. 
 
 Mousaka. 
 (A Turkish Dish). 
 
 1 egg-plant. 
 
 Cold meat (beef preferred). 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Cinnamon and cloves. 
 
 1 small onion, minced 
 (may be omitted). 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 6 tomatoes. 
 
 Gravy. 
 
 Slice the egg-plant without peeling, sprinkle with salt, 
 and pile one slice on another. Let them stand one hour 
 to take out the bitter. 
 
Luncheon. 75 
 
 Then fry brown to give flavor (no matter whether eooked 
 through). 
 
 Chop the meat fine (it should be rare), and season it 
 highly. Add the onion and egg. 
 
 Peel and slice the tomatoes. Fill a buttered pudding- 
 dish with layers of meat, tomatoes, and egg-plant, the hist 
 layer on top being of meat. Add all the cold gravy you 
 can get in. If you have not enough to fill the dish, put 
 in water. Then bake, covered, two hours, slowly at first ; 
 then uncover and brown quickly. 
 
 Egg-plant left from a former dinner may be used for 
 this. 
 
 (A rich and delicious dish). 
 
 Imitation Paid de Foie Gras. 
 
 Wash and clean a calf s liver. Let it lie in salt and 
 water for fifteen minutes. Boil till tender. Beat it 
 through a coarse wire sieve. Add one tablespoon ful 
 melted butter. Season with a little thyme, marjoram, 
 salt and pepper. Pack tight in pots. Cover with lard, 
 and keep in a cool place. It will keep for several days. 
 
 To really imitate a Pate" de Foie Gras, this should have 
 bits of tongue mixed through it, but it is just' as good 
 without. 
 
 Devilled Ham or Chicken. 
 
 f Cold boiled ham. 
 
 Dry mustard. 
 
 v Cayenne and black pepper. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 1 cupful milk or cream. 
 1 tablcspoonful flour. 
 
 Chop the ham very fine, and season with a little mustard 
 and pepper. While doing this, have the frying-pan on 
 the fire to get hot. When ready put the butter in the 
 pan. When hot, put in the ham. Add the milk, and let 
 it cook one or two minutes, stirring all the time. Then 
 stir in the flour, previously rubbed to a paste in a very 
 little milk. When it thickens, remove from the fire. 
 
 This will keep for several days in a cold place. 
 
76 
 
 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Mutton a la Venison, 
 
 4 slices cold roast mutton. 
 
 1 cupful cold mutton-gravy. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls currant jelly. 
 1 teaspoonf ul made mustard. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 2 tablespoonfuls Madeira or cur- 
 rant wine. 
 
 Cut the slices of mutton pretty thick. Put them in a 
 frying-pan, already heated. Pour over them the gravy. 
 When smoking hot, add the jelly. Stir till melted. Then 
 put in the other things, adding the wine at the last min- 
 ute before serving. 
 
 This makes a good imitation of venison, if not allowed 
 to stand after it is cooked. 
 
 Casserole Bice and Meat; 
 
 (With Tomato Sauce.) 
 
 ' 3 cupf uls hot boiled rice, 
 i pound cold meat (chopped fine). 
 1 teaspoonf ul onion (chopped fine}. 
 1 teaspoonf ul parsley (chopped fine). 
 1 saltspoonf ul thyme. 
 1 saltspoonf ul marjoram. 
 1 saltspoonf ul celery salt. 
 
 1 saltspoonf ul pepper. 
 A little salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls fine crumbs. 
 A little hot water or stock. 
 
 Butter a small mould. Line the sides and bottom half 
 an inch deep with the soft rice reserving a little. Have 
 ready the meat, well mixed with the spices. To this add 
 the crumbs (bread or cracker), previously moistened suffi- 
 ciently to bind it. Stir all well together, and then pack 
 closely in the mould. Cover the meat with the rest of 
 the rice, and steam three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Invert on a hot dish, and pour around it "Tomato 
 Sauce." 
 
Luncheon. 77 
 
 Wild Birds, Rechauffee. 
 
 Cut meat off of wild birds of any kind, left from dinner, 
 scraping the bones well ; mince tine. 
 
 Put the bones in a sauce-pan with enough cold water to 
 cover them. Cover, and boil fast, ten minutes. Strain, 
 and return to the sauce-pan, with the meat, a few bits of 
 butter, the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and salt, 
 and one third cupful of port wine, if you have it. Simmer 
 gently a few minutes, keeping the sauce-pan covered. 
 When it boils up well, stir in a tcaspoonf ul of browned flour, 
 rubbed to a paste in cold water. 
 
 Serve at once on a platter lined with slices of buttered 
 toast. 
 
 To increase the quantity, and yet have an appetizing 
 dish, add to the meat the remains of roast duck, or even 
 chicken and turkey. This can easily bo done in winter, 
 when meat can be saved from day to day. 
 
 Chicken and Corn Pudding. 
 
 2 stewed chickens. 
 
 1 quart grated green corn. 
 
 3 eggs (yolks only). 
 A little salt 
 
 A little cayenne pepper. 
 2 tablespooiif uls melted butter. 
 1 cupful strained tomato juice. 
 A little chicken broth or gravy. 
 
 While the chickens are stewing, prepare the corn, and 
 mix all the other things with it, except the chicken-broth. 
 
 Line a buttered baking-dish with part of the mixture. 
 Joint the chickens, and put them in with a little broth or 
 gravy, then cover them with what remains of the corn 
 batter. Bake in a moderate oven until well done. 
 
 The remains of any cold chicken may be used for this. 
 
 Chicken Baked in Rice. 
 
 Cut a chicken into joints as for fricassee. Season -with 
 pepper and salt. Lay in a deep dish lined with slices of 
 ham or bacon. Add one pint veal gravy ; one onion finely 
 
78 How to Cook WeU. 
 
 minced, and mixed through it. Fill up the dish with 
 " Boiled Rice " piled high as the dish will hold. Cover 
 with a paste of flour and water. Bake one hour. Before 
 serving, remove the paste. 
 
 A Tempting Dish for Luncheon. 
 
 Shred cold chicken (cooked in any way) into mouthfuls, 
 and mince the liver. Cut nearly an equal amount of celery 
 into short pieces ; barely cover them with water, and stew 
 till tender. Then add the chicken, with pepper and salt. 
 When it boils add bits of butter, thickly rolled in flour, 
 and one half cupful of milk into which flour has been stirred 
 to make it the consistency of cream. 
 
 Boil till it thickens well. Served covered. 
 
 PRESSED MEATS. 
 Beef Loaf. 
 
 1 pound raw beef (from the 
 
 round). 
 
 1 egg beaten light. 
 4 tablespoonfuls powdered 
 
 crackers. 
 
 l\ teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 A little pepper. 
 
 1 dessert spoonful summer 
 
 savory. 
 1 dessert spoonful thyme. 
 
 Chop the meat fine. Mix all well together. Do not 
 add water, though it may seem dry, for the juices of the 
 meat will provide moistening enough. Butter a small 
 deep pan. Press the meat down hard in it. Cover the 
 top with melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven 
 about an hour. 
 
 When cold, turn out on a platter, and cut into thin 
 slices at the table. For a family of six. 
 
 N". B. If you have no pan small enough for it, shape 
 it with floured hands into a round loaf. Put on a greased 
 pie-plate and bake. But it will Hot slice quite so nicely 
 as if treated the other way. 
 
Luncheon. 79 
 
 Spiced Beef. 
 
 Buy a shin of beef. Have the bone well cracked and 
 the shin cut in two. Save that with the least meat on it 
 for soup. Put on the other half to boil in four quarts of 
 cold water with one tablespoon ful of salt. Keep it covered ; 
 when it beyins to boil, skim it. Let it boil slowly nearly 
 all day, i. e. till the meat separates from the bone, and is 
 done to shreds, and the liquor has nearly boiled away. 
 If there is danger of the meat burning while boiling, add 
 a little boiling water not otherwise. 
 
 When done, take the meat out in a pan. Remove all 
 bone and gristle. Chop it coarse. Season with pepper, 
 allspice, sweet marjoram and a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 cloves. Put it back in the pot. Let it simmer half an 
 hour. Stir it up well, but do not add more water. Put 
 it in a deep bowl or pretty mould, previously wet, and 
 press it down hard. Set in a cold place. When cold turn 
 out, and cut in slices. 
 
 Pressed Corned Beef. 
 
 Boil the corned beef slowly (or else it will be tough) in 
 cold water, more than enough to cover it. Let it boil fur 
 several hours covered. Fill it up occasionally with boil- 
 ing water, keeping the beef always covered with water. 
 When the bone slips from the meat, it is done ; be sure 
 not to take it up till then, or till it can be easily pierced 
 with a fork. Put the meat into a deep pan, tearing up 
 the lean, and mixing the fat through it in such a way as 
 to give it a marbled look when cut. Heap the dish. Mois- 
 ten it a little with the water in which it was boiled. Put 
 a tin cover on top, in such a way as to press the meat, set 
 two flat-irons on that, and leave it to harden over night. 
 When cold turn out, and serve with mustard for a relish. 
 
 (The brisket is a good piece to cook in this way.) 
 
 If not too salt, the liquor left in the pot will make good 
 soup, with the addition of tomatoes and spice. 
 
80 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Head Cheese. 
 
 Wash and scrape four hogs' heads, and cut off the end 
 of the snouts. Scrape and clean the skins which have 
 come off the fat of the backbones and chines. Use the feet 
 also if you like. Put all these into a large pot of cold 
 water, and boil them till so tender that the bones can be 
 easily slipped out from the meat. Chop the meat, and 
 season it with salt, pepper, and spices to your taste ; sage, 
 mace, cinnamon and nutmeg are best. When well mixed, 
 tie the meat up securely in a clean, strong cloth. Put it 
 into a tray, with a heavy weight upon it, so as to flatten 
 it into a good shape. Leave it till the next day. Then 
 slice thin for breakfast or luncheon. Serve vinegar with it. 
 
 Veal and Ham Loaf. 
 
 Chop equal quantities of cold boiled ham and cold veal 
 fine and separately. Boil six eggs hard, and chop them 
 also. Butter a pudding-dish. Put in it first a layer of 
 veal, sprinkle pepper over it, and moisten it with water or 
 a little Worcestershire Sauce. Then put a layer of 
 ham, and then of eggs, with pepper and salt over them. 
 Keep on in this way till the dish is full. If the ham has 
 some fat with it you will not need to add butter ; but if 
 not, put a few lumps of butter on the top. Cover the 
 dish and bake slowly for four hours. Then set in a cool 
 place, with a heavy weight upon it. 
 
 Next day, turn it out, and cut in thin slices at the table. 
 Serve olives with it. 
 
 Jellied Veal. 
 
 Wash a knuckle of veal, and cut it into three pieces, 
 the bones being well cracked. Boil slowly in cold water 
 till the bones are ready to slip out. Take the meat from 
 the liquor, remove all the bones, and chop the meat very 
 fine. Season with salt, pepper, a little mace and thyme, 
 
Luncheon. 81 
 
 or sage. Add two shallots chopped as fine as possible. 
 Put all back into the liquor and boil until it is almost dry, 
 and can be stirred with difficulty. Turn into a mould till 
 next day ; then turn out on a platter, and garnish with 
 parsley, or slices of pickled beets. 
 
 The juice of a lemon stirred in just before taking it from 
 the fire is an improvement. 
 
 A more Economical Way is, to take the veal from the 
 liquor when that is reduced one half (saving it for stock 
 for soup). Add bread or cracker-crumbs (nearly half the 
 quantity you have of veal) and one or two chopj>ed hard- 
 boiled eggs (also a little cold rice, if you like). Season 
 to taste, with herbs, and mix well. Moisten with the 
 stock, and pack down hard in a wet mould. This is very 
 good. 
 
 Veal Loaf. 
 
 (For Twenty Persons.) 
 
 4 pounds raw veal steak. 
 
 1 slice salt pork. 
 
 3 pounded Boston crackers. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten slightly). 
 
 1 tablespoonful sage (or 1 nut- 
 meg). 
 
 1 tablespoonful pepper. 
 1 tablespoonful salt. 
 
 Butter size of egg (melted). 
 
 Chop the steak and pork very fine. Add the other 
 things, and mix all well together. Butter a deep square 
 pan. Pack the mixture down hard into it. Put bits 
 of butter over the top. Grate over that one piece of 
 stale bread. Bake two hours in a slow oven, basting 
 often with water. When cold turn out, and cut in thin 
 slices. 
 
 This is nice for picnics, cold collations, etc. If served 
 already sliced, a pretty garnish for the platter is "Red 
 Cabbage Pickle," in little heaps. 
 
 Pressed Chicken. 
 
 A pair of old fowls may be utilized in this way. Cut 
 them up, after cleaning and washing, and put into a deep 
 
82 How to Cook Well 
 
 kettle with four quarts of cold water. Cover tightly so 
 as to keep in the steam. Boil slowly till the meat sepa- 
 rates from the bones and the liquor is nearly boiled away. 
 Take it out, put into a pan, and discard all the bones, 
 gristle and skin. Chop coarse ; season with pepper, salt, 
 butter and a little mace. Put it into a wet mould. Pour 
 over it the hot liquor left in the pot, and press it down 
 hard. It will jelly when cold. 
 
 Another Way is, to take the chicken from the pot 
 when there is still about one pint of liquor left. After 
 seasoning it, press it like " Pressed Corned Beef." Sea- 
 son the hot liquor, and pour it into wet egg-cups. When 
 the chicken is turned out in form, surround it by the little 
 mounds of chicken-jelly, and help one to each person. 
 
 This chicken jelly is very nourishing as well as appe- 
 tizing to invalids. 
 
 A pretty way to serve the chicken is to decorate the 
 bottom and sides of the mould with slices of hard-boiled 
 eggs; also thin slices of tongue or ham cut into fancy 
 shapes. Then pack in the meat, and set a weight upon 
 it. When ready to serve dip the mould in warm water 
 and turn out carefully. 
 
 CROQUETTES, MEAT BALLS, etc. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 IF these are made of meat, it should be previously 
 cooked. In boiling chickens (or other meat) for cro- 
 quettes, save the water used for cooking them, to make 
 soup. Fairly good croquettes can be made from the meat 
 on a soup-bone, provided it be not boiled till all the good- 
 ness is extracted. 
 
 Croquettes are boiled in deep lard, like fritters, but the 
 lard need not be as deep. If you lay them in a wire 
 
Luncheon. 83 
 
 basket to cook they arc much more easily managed. It 
 takes about ten minutes to brown them well. When done, 
 lay them for a moment on soft, thick paper to absorb any 
 grease. The great beauty of croquettes lies in this to 
 have them crisp and brown, yet not greasy. They will bo 
 right if the directions for "Boiling in Lard" are carefully 
 attended to. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 Croquettes may be made the day before intended for 
 use. This is often convenient, and besides it prevents the 
 smell of grease through the house, which is objectionable 
 at all times, but especially at meal times. When wanted 
 for serving, heat the croquettes in a very hot oven, having 
 laid them on a thick, soft paper on a pan. It is, in my 
 opinion, a real improvement to treat them thus. 
 
 All of these croquette mixtures may be fried, as well as 
 boiled in deep lard. Made into flat cakes, and browned 
 nicely on both sides, they are called "Meat Balls, Rice 
 Balls " etc. 
 
 Either as Croquettes or under the latter name they form 
 pleasing side-dishes at any meal. 
 
 A French Receipt for Croquettes. 
 
 Cold turkey, veal, or chicken. 
 
 Vegetables and spices, 
 f Butter size of a walnut 
 1 3 dessert spoons flour. 
 
 2 e ggs (yolks only). 
 
 Boil the bones of the turkey with a few vegetables (any 
 kinds you choose) and spices. Use only enough water to 
 cover them, and have the sauce pan covered. While they 
 are boiling cut (not chop) the meat very fine in small 
 squares. Run the knife through an onion several times to 
 give a delicate flavor to the meat ; and add a little chopped 
 ham if you like it. 
 
 Rub the butter and flour to a smooth paste. When the 
 
84 How to Cook Well. 
 
 goodness is extracted from the bones and vegetables, 
 strain them boiling hot, upon the paste and stir well. 
 
 While hot, but not boiling, break into the paste the yolks 
 of the eggs beaten well, and stir quickly. Add the meat. 
 
 Form the croquettes with the hand into pear-shapes. 
 Then "egg and crumb" them. Do this twice. Boil in 
 lard deep enough to cover them well. When done lay on 
 soft paper to absorb the grease. Then stick a sprig of 
 parsley in the small end of each, and serve. 
 
 Veal or Chicken Croquettes. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 
 4 of an onion (minced very 
 
 fine). 
 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 1 cup veal or chicken broth (or 
 
 gravy). 
 
 1 pound cold veal or chicken 
 
 (chopped fine). 
 | teaspoonf ul salt. 
 Pinch black or cayenne pepper. 
 
 2 eggs (reserving white of one). 
 1 cup powdered crumbs. 
 
 Melt the butter in a pan. When hot, add the onion, 
 and let it fry till yellow and tender. Put in the flour, 
 previously rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold 
 water. Stir a few minutes. Then add the broth or gravy, 
 and when that is smoking hot, put in the veal, with the 
 seasoning. Stir and toss till it begins to boil (adding 
 more broth if needed). Remove from the fire, put it on a 
 cold dish and beat in the eggs beaten light. 
 
 When perfectly cold, form into long, narrow rolls, not 
 too large. Then "egg-and-crumb" them, using the re- 
 served white of the egg. When the lard is ready, drop in 
 the croquettes gently, a few at a time, and brown them 
 nicely. Remove with a perforated ladle, and serve hot. 
 
 Veal Croquettes (simpler). 
 
 Chop cold veal very fine. Add salt and pepper and a 
 little ground mace or sage. (Also, a minced onion, if you 
 like it.) Moisten slightly with gravy. With floured 
 hands, make into prettily shaped balls. " Egg-and-crumb " 
 them, then boil in deep lard. 
 
Luncheon. 85 
 
 Simple Chicken Croquettes. 
 
 Mince cold chicken. Add a little minced celery and 
 parsley (chopped oysters, too, if you like) season with pep- 
 per, salt, and a little mustard. Moisten with a little gravy 
 or milk. Add one or two beaten eggs. Mix well to- 
 gether, and make into long balls. Boil in deep lard. 
 
 Philadelphia Chicken Croquettes. 
 
 1 pair fowls. 
 
 2 unions. 
 2 carrots. 
 
 Parsley and thyme (a small 
 
 bunch). 
 . A few cloves. 
 1 pound butter. 
 
 cupful chicken broth. 
 
 U cupfuls rich cream. 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 A a nutmeg (grated). 
 
 Sweet marjoram. 
 
 gg (yolks only). 
 
 Stale bread-crumbs (fine). 
 
 1 tablespoon! ul flour. 
 
 Buy a pair of fowls weighing not less than six pounds 
 the pair. Choose those having the largest amount of 
 breast-meat. Boil the fowls in water enough to cover 
 them, with the onions, carrots, thyme and parsley, and 
 cloves. When tender (in about one and one half hours) 
 take out the fowls, and let them get cold. Then chop 
 very fine. 
 
 Put the butter into a double-boiler with the flour. Cook 
 together, stirring constantly. Add the broth and cream. 
 Boil eight or ten minutes, still stirring. Remove it from 
 the fire, and mix in the seasoning. Then add the chopped 
 chicken. When well mixed, stir in the beaten yolks of 
 four of the eggs. Set the mixture on the stove for a few 
 minutes to evaporate, stirring briskly all the time. Spread 
 on a platter to cool, and then make into pear-shaped balls. 
 When all are ready dip each into the yolks of the two re- 
 maining eggs, beaten with a little cream. Then roll in 
 bread-crumbs so fine as to have been passed through a 
 sieve. 
 
 " Boil in lard " like other croquettes. These are the 
 Philadelphia croquettes, so famous everywhere. 
 
86 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Meat and Rice Croquettes. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 2 chickens, or two pounds lean 
 
 beef or veal, chopped fine. 
 
 1 tablespoouful chopped onion. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 i nutmeg. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Pepper, red and black. 
 
 2 cups, hot, boiled rice. 
 
 Put the butter into a skillet on the fire. When it bub- 
 bles stir in the flour, then the milk, and stir until like por- 
 ridge. Have ready mixed the chopped meat and rice 
 with the various seasonings. Stir it into the flour and 
 butter, and cook a few minutes (not too long). Pour the 
 mixture into a shallow dish, and when quite cold, divide 
 and shape into croquettes. Roll first in fine cracker- 
 crumbs, then in egg, and again in cracker, and " boil in lard." 
 
 Venison or Mutton Croquettes. 
 
 A pinch of cloves. 
 
 A little grated lemon peel. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 Cold venison or mutton. 
 Bread or cracker crumbs. 
 Currant jelly. 
 A little hot gravy or stock. 
 
 Chop the meat, and add about one fifth as much of 
 crumbs. Stir enough jelly into the hot gravy to give a 
 decided flavor. Moisten well the meat. Add seasoning, 
 and egg. Form into croquettes, and " egg-and-crumb " 
 them. Then boil in deep lard. 
 
 Lamb Croquettes. 
 
 4 cupfuls cold chopped lamb. 
 
 1 cupful suet, chopped. 
 
 1 tablespoonful onion, chopped. 
 
 A little salt and pepper. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 A little cream. 
 
 A little parsley, chopped. 
 
 Mix all well together, using both juice and grated rind 
 of the lemon, and enough cream to bind all together. 
 Shape prettily with floured hands. "Egg-and-crumb" 
 them ; then boil in deep lard. 
 
 A little rice may be added if liked or bread crumbs. 
 
Luncheon. 87 
 
 Beef Croquettes. 
 
 Chop together cold beef (already cooked) and one 
 quarter of an onion. (The latter may be omitted.) Sea- 
 son with salt, popper, sweet marjoram, and thyme. Mois- 
 ten with a little gravy and form into balls. Have ready 
 a beaten egg. Dip each ball into this, then into line 
 crumbs or flour, and boil in deep lard. 
 
 Hap-Hazard Croquettes. 
 (Chicken, Beef, Mutton, Veal, or FLsh.) 
 
 Mince fine the meat. Add one quarter as much of bread 
 or cracker-crumbs with chicken, mutton, or veal (one 
 quarter as much potato with beef or fish) ; moisten with 
 gravy or drawn butter, and mix in a beaten egg. Season 
 with pepper and salt; if beef, add marjoram; if chicken, 
 the chopped yolk of a hard boiled egg; if mutton, "Claret 
 Syrup;" if fish, catsup. Form into balls, "egg-and- 
 crumb" them, and boil in deep lard. 
 
 Meat Balls. 
 
 These may be made of any kind of cold meat, chopped 
 fine, seasoned highly, and moistened with a little gravy 
 or one egg (yolk only) beaten light. With floured hands 
 form into balls, flatten the top and bottom of each, and 
 dredge on a little flour. Have ready a hot frying-pan, in 
 which a large tablespoonf ul beef-dripping has been melted. 
 Lay in the meat balls, and when brown on one aide, turn 
 on the other. Have them over a hot fire, so that they 
 will not dry out. Serve at once, before they lose their 
 crispness. 
 
 If you have not much meat add a little cold chopped or 
 mashed potato. Even bread or cracker-crumbs (a feic) 
 may be used, if well seasoned. Chopped herbs are an 
 agreeable addition. 
 
88 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Lobster, or Crab Croquettes. 
 
 1 lobster or 6 crabs, boiled. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 2 eggs, boiled hard. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul anchovy sauce. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 A little cayenne pepper. 
 
 A pinch of mace. 
 
 A pinch of lemon peel, grated. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul lemon juice. 
 
 Mince the meat. Melt the butter. When a little cool 
 rub it into the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs. Mix this 
 with the meat, then add the other things in order. With 
 floured hands, make into oblong balls, and " boil in lard " 
 like other croquettes. 
 
 Serve slices of lemon with them, as a garnish for the 
 dish and an additional relish. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 
 Pound in a mortar, any kind of cold, boiled fish ; mix 
 with it a hard boiled egg, chopped fine. Make a batter, in 
 the proportion of one tablespoonful of milk, two of flour, 
 and one egg beaten light, with a little salt and a dash of 
 red pepper. Stir in the fish, make into balls, dredge them 
 with flour, and boil in deep lard. 
 
 Oyster Croquettes. 
 
 50 medium-sized oysters. 
 4 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 i cupful cream. 
 
 1 dessertspoonful parsley 
 
 (chopped) . 
 
 A small piece onion (chopped). 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 Scald the oysters five minutes and drain dry. Then 
 chop them into rough pieces. 
 
 Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles, stir 
 in the flour. Add the cream by degrees. When it boils 
 add the nutmeg. Take from the fire, and mix with the 
 oysters. Then stir in the other things. When the mixt- 
 ure is cold, roll into shapes on a floured board. "Egg-and 
 crumb" them, then boil quickly in deep lard. 
 
Luncheon. 89 
 
 Codfish Balls. 
 
 Soak the codfish over night, and let it simmer till tender. 
 (See Stewed Codfish.) Tick the fish into shreds, freeing 
 it from all bits of bone. To one part fish, put two parts 
 hot boiled potatoes. Mash both together with a potato- 
 masher till the pulp is thoroughly blended. Add while 
 hot, a large lump of butter, and milk or cream to make it 
 very smooth and soft. Put in a very little salt and pep- 
 per. 
 
 With floured hands, form into flattened balls. Have 
 ready in the frying-pan three or four slices of salt pork, 
 fried till crisp. Take them out ; and into the hot fat, lay 
 the balls. Let them brown nicely on one side, keeping 
 the pan over the hottest part of the fire ; then turn, and 
 brown the other. 
 
 These Codfish Balls are warranted perfect, if made ac- 
 cording to direction. Never content yourself with chop- 
 ping either fish or potato. If you cannot mix in the 
 potato hot, use cold mashed potato, left from yesterday's 
 dinner. Frying them in salt pork gives them a good rich 
 flavor ; but if you prefer, they may be boiled in deep lard. 
 In this case, form the balls perfectly round. 
 
 Fish Balls. 
 
 Take half cold or hot mashed potato and half fresh fish 
 (any kind, cooked). Chop the fish into the potato, and 
 mix well. Season to taste. Moisten with milk (or "Fish 
 Sauce," or "Drawn Butter," if you have any on hand). 
 Form into balls, flour, and fry them, or boil them in deep 
 lard. Excellent fish balls may be made of cold salmon 
 or mackerel, or blue fish ; and in this way, even a small 
 quantity of fish left from dinner may be saved. Canned 
 fish does very well for this purpose. 
 
90 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Potato Balls. 
 
 Take cold, ftiashed potato left from dinner. With 
 floured hands, form into flattened balls. Have ready in a 
 hot frying-pan, one tablespoonful of ham or beef drippings, 
 or lard. Put in the potato balls, and fry over a very hot 
 fire, so that they will have a tender crust. It is an im- 
 provement to moisten the potato with milk and butter. 
 The ham drippings give a good flavor. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 2 cupf uls mashed potato. 
 
 A little milk or cream. 
 
 A little melted butter. 
 
 1 egg (yolk only). 
 
 i of a nutmeg, nearly (may be omitted). 
 
 A large pinch cayenne pepper. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 A little parsley, chopped (may be omitted). 
 
 Moisten the potato with the milk, butter and egg 
 (beaten) and add the seasoning. Beat all together. Make 
 into long rolls. Dip first in beaten egg, then in fine 
 crumbs or flour, and boil in deep lard. 
 
 These break so easily that it is well to put them into a 
 wire basket, which can be plunged into the lard, and the 
 whole of the croquettes taken out at once. Drain well, 
 and dish at once. 
 
 Potato Pears. 
 
 Made like " Potato Croquettes," only shape them like 
 pears, and stick a clove at the small end for a stem, and 
 put a tiny bit of parsley at the blossom end. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 
 1 pint cold boiled rice. 
 
 4 tablespoonf uls boiling hot 
 
 4 tablespoonful melted butter. 
 1 or -2 eggs, beaten. 
 
 milk. 
 
 Soak the rice a few minutes in the milk. Mix in the 
 butter and eggs (or the yolks or whites alone), and with 
 
Luncheon. 91 
 
 floured bands form into long rolls. " Egg-and-crumb " them 
 and boil in deep lard, in a wire basket, if you have one. 
 It is an improvement to add a few fine cracker-crumbs. 
 Hominy (line) may be substituted for the rice, or may be 
 mixed with it. 
 
 To vary them, add, after the eggs, the juice and half 
 the grated rind of a lemon or orange. 
 
 Bice Balls. 
 
 1 pint cold boiled rice. 
 A littlr salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 1 egg (may be omitted). 
 
 1 tablespoonful melted butter. 
 
 Mix together, having beaten the egg. Make into 
 floured balls, flatten them, and fry in a hot frying-pan, in 
 which has been melted a large table-spoonful of lard. 
 Fry quickly and serve at once, while crisp. 
 
 PATES. 
 
 Make a good " Puff Paste." Set it in a cold place, for 
 at least half an hour, to become crisp. Roll it out quickly 
 about one quarter of an inch thick, cut with a biscuit-cut- 
 ter into rounds. With a smaller cutter cut the centre 
 from two rounds, and place the circles left, on one which 
 is whole. This will make a little hollow dish of crust. 
 Lay them all, when prepared, in a floured baking-tin. 
 Bake them in a quick oven. When lightly browned, 
 glaze them, by brushing each over with white of egg, and 
 return to the oven for a minute. 
 
 Pate's are filled with various mixtures, and are served 
 hot. They are favorites for luncheon, and are not ex- 
 travagant, 88 the remains of almost any kind of meat, 
 game, fish, or oysters, can be served up temptingly in this 
 way by a skilful housewife. 
 
 To vary them bake also the rounds cut from the centre 
 
92 How to Cook Well. 
 
 of the pates, and use them for covers when the pates are 
 served. 
 
 Or the crust may be baked in little tins, called patty 
 pans. For filling, use any of the following receipts, or 
 those for croquettes. Set back in the oven till the filling 
 
 is hot. 
 
 Bread Pat6s. 
 
 Cut slices of stale bread one inch thick. Cut into 
 rounds with a biscuit-cutter. With a smaller cutter mark 
 a circle within and remove the bread to the depth of half 
 an inch. Dip these into beaten egg. Sift powdered 
 cracker over them and boil in deep lard, delicately brown. 
 Lay them on brown paper to absorb the grease, then 
 arrange upon a hot platter, and fill them with any kind 
 of nicely-seasoned hot minced meat, moistened slightly. 
 Chicken or turkey is best. Serve hot. 
 
 These are much more quickly and easily made than 
 ordinary pates, and it is a good way to use up stale bread. 
 The bread that is scooped out should be put into the 
 bread-crumb box. 
 
 Oyster Pates. (No. 1.) 
 
 With a sharp knife cut oysters into pieces. Heat them 
 in a little of their own liquor, just enough to cover them. 
 Make a "Drawn Butter" sauce, and stir the minced 
 oysters into it while on the fire. Stew about five minutes, 
 stirring all the time. Fill "Pates" with the mixture. 
 Set them in the oven till hot. Serve hot. 
 
 No. 2. Scald the oysters in their own liquor ; then dip 
 them out with a perforated skimmer. Leave only enough 
 juice in the pan to cover the oysters. Skim well. Rub 
 together two tablespoonfuls of flour, and two of butter, and 
 stir them into the boiling liquor. This should make it as 
 rich as thick cream. If not, use more butter and flour. 
 Season with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper. When 
 it has boiled a few minutes remove, and pour it over the 
 
Luncheon. 93 
 
 yolks of two or three well-beaten eggs, stirring fast. Add 
 the oysters and return the whole to the tire, for a mo- 
 ment, but do not boil. Have ready the " Pates." Fill 
 them at once. Sprinkle with cracker-crumbs, and brown 
 quickly on the top shelf of the oven. 
 
 If you have oysters left over, put them in a dish, and 
 pass around, so that each person can have a second helping. 
 
 Pish Pates. 
 
 Take the remains of baked, boiled, or canned fish of any 
 kind. Prepare as for " Fish Balls ; " moisten with melted 
 butter, or egg, or " White Sauce ; " season highly with 
 Worcestershire Sauce or any thing you prefer. Fill the 
 " Pates " ; set in the oven to get hot, and serve hot. 
 
 Squeeze a few drops of lemon over the fish at table from 
 slices of lemon, which should be served with the p&tes. 
 
 Chicken, or Veal Pates. 
 
 Prepare the chicken as for " Croquettes". Fill " Pete's," 
 and heat through in a hot oven. 
 
 These are good cold as well as hot, and are an accept- 
 able addition to a picnic basket. 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Do not attempt to make fritters unless you have plenty 
 of time. It will take half an hour to fry enough for a 
 small family, and they must be watched carefully if you 
 aim at success. 
 
 Before making fritters read over "How to Boil in 
 Lard." 
 
 Use one or two pounds of fresh lard. It should be at 
 least two inches deep; a greater depth will be necessary 
 if you are going to make a large quantity of fritters. 
 
94 
 
 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Test the lard by trying one spoonful of batter before put- 
 ting in more. If hot enough, the batter will rise to the 
 surface quickly, dancing about and browning soon. If it 
 is slow in rising wait to put in the fritters till you have 
 increased the heat of the lard. There is such a thing as 
 haivng it too hot, however. In this case the fritters will 
 brown before swelling to their full size, and will be doughy 
 inside. 
 
 Put in only a few fritters at a time, dropping them in 
 from a spoon. Turn when brown on one side. They 
 will be done in about eight minutes. 
 
 When ready pile on a hot platter. If for dessert, sift 
 sugar over them while hot. 
 
 Plain Fritters. 
 
 1 pint flour (or enough for a 
 rather thick batter). 
 
 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 i teaspoonful salt. 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Beat all well together. Drop into hot lard at once, 
 and boil according to directions. 
 
 Serve hot for dessert, with syrup, or sugar and cider ; 
 or for breakfast. 
 
 Two eggs only will do, if you add to a part of the flour 
 one teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Snow Fritters. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls salt. 
 Flour to make a rather 
 
 thick 
 
 batter. 
 1 cupful rceto-fallen light snow. 
 
 Have the lard heating, when you begin to mix the frit- 
 ters. Beat hard before putting in the snow. ' Get that at 
 the last moment, and the instant it is mixed in, drop the 
 batter by spoonfuls into the hot lard. 
 
 Serve for dessert, or tea with sugar sifted over. If 
 quickly and properly made, these are the lightest and 
 nicest of all fritters. 
 
Luncheon. 95 
 
 Bell Fritters. 
 
 1 pint water, boiling. 1 1 pint flour. 
 
 Butter, size of an egg. I 6 eggs. 
 
 Boil the -butter with the water. Remove from the fire, 
 pour instantly over the flour and mix smooth. While 
 still hot, add the eggs, one at a time, beating each egg 
 alone. Stir fast, so they will not curdle. Beat hard and 
 boil iii deep lard. Serve with sugar, or pudding sauce. 
 
 Bannocks. 
 
 ( 1 pint corn meal. 
 I Boiling water. 
 A little salt. 
 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 1 tablespoonful cream or melted 
 butter. 
 
 Pour over the corn meal enough boiling water to thor- 
 oughly moisten it. Let it stand a few minutes. Then 
 add the other things. With floured hands make into balls, 
 and boil in deep lard. Serve hot, with syrup, for break- 
 fast, tea, or a plain dessert. 
 
 Bread Fritters. 
 
 Cut stale bread into slices one inch thick. Cut the soft 
 part into any pretty shape. A good way is to cut into 
 rings, by using biscuit-cutters of two sizes. You can then 
 use the small circle, as well as the ring. Soak each piece 
 a few minutes in milk or custard. (Save the crusts for the 
 stale-crumb box.) Then drop into deep lard, and boil 
 delicately. Sprinkle with sugar. 
 
 Dough Fritters. 
 
 Roll out and cut into cubes or fancy figures, light bread- 
 dough. Boil at once in deep lard, and sprinkle with 
 sugar. 
 
 Mock Doughnuts. 
 
 A few stale rolls. 
 
 1 cup milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 4 tcaspoonfnl cinnamon. 
 
 3 eggs (yolks only). 
 
 1 cupful powdered crackers. 
 
 teaspoonful nutmeg. 
 Cut off the crust, and trim the rolls into round balls. 
 
96 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Mix the milk, sugar and spices in a deep pan. Lay the 
 rolls in, and wet them thoroughly on all sides. Let them 
 soak in the milk a few minutes. Then " Egg-and-crumb " 
 them. Boil in deep lard. Drain, and serve hot with 
 sauce for dessert. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 ( lh cupfuls flour. 
 
 I teaspoonf ul cream tartar. 
 1 cupful sour milk. 
 i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 24 cups chopped apple. 
 
 Mix the cream of tartar through the flour. Put in the 
 other ingredients, and beat hard. Boil in deep lard at 
 once. 
 
 Serve for dessert or lunch with " Molasses Sauce." 
 Another Way. See the following receipt. 
 
 Apple, Orange or Banana Fritters. 
 
 Core tart apples, and cut them in slices one third of an 
 inch thick. Peel and divide oranges into sections. Peel 
 and slice bananas. Make a batter as for "Plain Frit- 
 ters." Have the lard ready, and just before boiling the 
 fritters stir in the fruit lightly. Dip up one piece of 
 fruit in each spoonful of batter you drop into the lard. 
 Sift sugar over the fritters as soon as done, and serve at 
 once, with sugar. 
 
 Potato Fritters. 
 
 4 cupfuls mashed potato. 
 
 I teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 * pound butter (melted). 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 2 eggs (well beaten). 
 
 Beat to a stiff batter. Boil in deep lard, dropping in 
 the spoonfuls of batter with great care, so as not to break 
 the fritters. 
 
LuncJwon. 97 
 
 Rice Fritters. 
 
 1 cupful boiled rice. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls butter (melted). 
 
 3 eggs (well beaten). 
 
 Mix, and boil in deep lard, beating up the batter every 
 time before dropping in more fritters. 
 
 To Vary them, add half a lemon-peel, grated ; a little 
 grated nutmeg, and one third of a cupful of Zante cur- 
 rants, rubbed through the flour, with four tablespoon fills 
 of sugar. 
 
 Squash or Pea Fritters. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 {1 A cupfuls milk. 
 I teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 Flour to make a thick batter, 
 li cups peas or winder squash (boiled). 
 
 Mix together, and beat well. Boil in deep lard. The 
 peas or squash should be mashed smooth. The peas will 
 mash more easily if wet gradually with zfew spoonfuls of 
 hot milk. 
 
 These are delicious. A good way to use squash or peas 
 "leftover." 
 
 Corn Oysters. 
 
 1 pint grated sweet corn. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 ( 1 cupful flour. 
 
 I A teaspoonf ul baking powder. 
 | cupful butter melted (less will do). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 1 teaspoonful salt 
 \ teaspoonful pepper. 
 
 Mix well (one egg will do if you use the full amount 
 of butter), and drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard. Each 
 should be the size of an oyster. 
 
 It will take about twelve ears of corn to make a pint 
 
98 How to Cook Well 
 
 grated. This is a good way to use up corn which is no 
 longer young. These fritters are favorites everywhere. 
 They may be fried like griddle-cakes, if you choose, with 
 but a little lard ; in this case use only about two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. 
 
 Corn Fritters. 
 6 ears corn. f 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 
 A little salt and pepper. 
 
 teaspoonf ul baking powder. 
 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 
 Slit each row of grains with a sharp knife, then scrape 
 from the cob. Add the seasoning and egg. Mix the 
 baking-powder with the flour, and stir it thoroughly 
 through the corn. Drop by spoonfuls into boiling butter 
 and lard mixed, just deep enough to cover the fritters. 
 
 Boiled corn may be used for these, though it is not so 
 good. In this case use a little milk. 
 
 Oyster Fritters. (No. 1.) 
 
 Make a batter as for " Plain Fritters," using the liquor 
 from the oysters in place of half the milk, and omitting 
 salt. Dip each oyster in the batter, and boil in deep lard. 
 Serve, with squares of lemon, on a small dish, to accom- 
 pany them. 
 
 No. 2, The same as above, but make the batter thin- 
 ner, and chop the oysters, which are then mixed through 
 the batter. Use one half a tablespoonful of the batter to 
 each fritter. Boil and serve as above. 
 
 Clam Fritters. 
 
 1 cupful clams (chopped). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 1 egg (beaten well). 
 
 Flour. 
 
 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 (Measure the clams after they are taken from the shell.) 
 Add the liquor from the clams to the milk. Add the egg, 
 with salt and pepper, and flour enough for a rather thick 
 batter. Then mix in the clams ; and just before frying, 
 
Luncheon. 
 
 99 
 
 bent in the soda. Use half a tablespoonful of batter to 
 each fritter. 
 
 N. B. If you cannot get the clams already opened, see 
 " To Open Clams. " 
 
 Other Dishes for Luncheon. 
 (See Index.) 
 
 Bouillon, etc. 
 
 Stick bread. 
 
 Fresh fish (all kinds). 
 
 Canned salmon (various ways). 
 
 Oysters and clams (various 
 ways). 
 
 Chicken, lamb or veal Curry. 
 
 Game and poultry. 
 
 Meat pies. 
 
 Steak, chops, cutlets. 
 
 Beefsteak with baked toma- 
 toes. 
 
 Stuffed beefsteak. 
 
 Mock duck. 
 
 Broiled chicken. 
 
 Fried chicken. 
 
 Fried chicken with cream gravy. 
 
 Fried chicken with mush cakes. 
 
 Smothered chicken. 
 
 Stewed potatoes. 
 
 Stewed potatoes with gravy. 
 
 Potatoes and cream. 
 
 Baked potatoes (Irish and 
 
 sweet). 
 
 Stuffed potatoes. 
 Lyonnaise potatoes. 
 Raw tomatoes. 
 Escaloped tomatoes. 
 Macaroni with oysters. 
 Macaroni and ham. 
 Egg-plant (fried). 
 Salads of all kinds. 
 Baked and stewed fruits. 
 Gingerbread, and cake. 
 Blanc-mange, custards and 
 
 other delicacies. 
 Tea, coffee, cocoa, chocolate. 
 
DINNER. 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 THE best housekeepers consider no dinner well ordered 
 which is not begun by soup ; but even where this practice 
 does not prevail, for the sake of economy soup should ap- 
 pear on the table once or twice a week, at least in cold 
 weather. Many remnants left from dinner can be used in 
 this way, and made into excellent soup, if proper attention 
 is paid to seasoning. Even in a rich soup this is most im- 
 portant. Success in this line can only be assured in one 
 way, and that is, by tasting ; for if you merely guess at 
 the amount of salt, pepper and spice which will be re- 
 quired you run the risk of ruining the soup by putting in 
 too much, on the one hand, and of leaving it insipid, on the 
 other. 
 
 Soup meat should, in every case, be boiled the day be- 
 fore the soup is to be served, so as to give time for the 
 liquor to become perfectly cold. The fat will then rise to 
 the top in a hard mass, and can be entirely removed ; 
 whereas no amount of "skimming" can take off all the 
 grease while it is hot. A greasy soup should never find 
 place on the table of any careful housekeeper, or one who 
 regards the health of her family. 
 
 In buying meat for soup choose a shank of mutton, shin 
 of beef, or knuckle of veal. Have the butcher crack the 
 bones in every part. The bones are as valuable as the 
 meat itself, owing to the gelatine in them, which imparts 
 a peculiar richness. You can often get odds and ends of 
 
 100 
 
Dirtoito*. 
 
 meat, which the butchers call " trimmings, " to put with 
 these. Do not mix mutton with other kinds of meat, but 
 beef, veal, and poultry all go well together. 
 
 Remember, however, that one can make very good soup 
 without buying anything for it. Always boil what is left 
 from a roast of beef or mutton. This is worth while even 
 when the bone is almost bare if you put with it the re- 
 mains of any hash or stew you may have. These, boiled 
 with a ham-bone or the ragged ends and bones of a beef- 
 steak, will make a stock not to be despised. The bones of 
 poultry and game make a delicious soup. To boil meat 
 for soup see " Stock. " 
 
 By " Stock " is meant the basis of soup. It is obtained 
 by extracting the juices of meat and bones by long boil- 
 ing. If strong, it will form a jelly when cold. When 
 wanted for soup, heat it and it will return to a liquid 
 state. Unless you want a very rich soup, add water to it; 
 that in which vegetables have been boiled is best (even if 
 vegetables are to be added), for it often contains much 
 richness and good flavor. 
 
 N. B. The meat on a soup-bone should be chopped 
 and used for hash or croquettes, unless all the goodness 
 has gone out of it. 
 
 SEASONINGS, THICKENINGS, AND ACCOM- 
 PANIMENTS TO SOUP. 
 
 Spices, etc. 
 
 Sweet marjoram and cloves are suited to any dark- 
 colored soup ; summer savory and sage to that which is 
 light-colored. Mace particularly suits chicken and oyster 
 soups. Never put nutmeg or cinnamon in soup. 
 
 Miscellaneous Seasoning. 
 
 " Burnt sugar " gives a good color to soup. So also does 
 " Claret Syrup," and it tastes well. Wine is good in soup, 
 
lt)2T : ^ow W ^Cook Well. 
 
 especially brown sherry ; it should not be put in till the 
 soup is in the tureen, or it may cause it to curdle. The 
 spiced vinegar from Sweet Pickle or Chow-chow is good ; 
 or a spoonful of piccalily may be put in. Capers and nas- 
 turtiums are favorites with some. 
 
 Claret Syrup. 
 
 1 quart claret. 
 
 2 pounds white sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful whole mace. 
 1 teaspoonful allspice. 
 
 1 teaspoonful whole cloves. 
 
 Put all together in a sauce-pan, and boil half an hour. 
 Let it become cold. Bottle it and cork. Use a few 
 spoonfuls at a time, to mix with soup, hash, stews, etc. 
 
 Burnt Sugar. 
 1 pound brown sugar. | 1 pint cold water. 
 
 Put the dry sugar into a sauce-pan. Let it melt and 
 become brown. Then add the water. Let it boil, stir- 
 ring it, for ten minutes. Pour it off into a bottle, and 
 keep it corked tight. Use a few spoonfuls at a time. 
 
 Thickenings for Soup. 
 
 Soup may be thickened very delicately by using the 
 water from boiled hominy (large). One may judge how 
 rich this is by the fact that it will jelly when cold. 
 Mashed potato, either hot or cold, wet to a paste with a 
 little of the hot soup before adding it, is also delicate. 
 The pulp of boiled peas and beans makes a variety in 
 thickening, and so does stewed tomato. 
 
 But the commonest way is, to rub smooth a little flour 
 in a little cold water, and stir it in while the soup is boil- 
 ing fast. Be careful not to use too much. It will be 
 found useful chiefly when the soup is not very rich. In 
 rich soups no such thickening is required. 
 
 Cracker and bread-crumbs, rice, vermicelli, macaroni 
 and tapioca, barley and sago are all used in soup. 
 
Dinner. 103 
 
 Force-Meat Balls. 
 
 Cliop fine the meat used to make the soup or any cold 
 meat. Season it with pepper, salt, minced onion (fried), 
 and sweet marjoram, a little lemon juice, and grated peel. 
 Mix in the beaten yolk of one egg, and a sprinkling of flour. 
 Form the mixture into balls the size of a large marble. 
 Fry them in a little butter and drop into the soup after it 
 is in the tureen. 
 
 Omit the onion and lemon if you like. 
 
 Croutons. 
 
 Cut stale bread into pieces the size of small dice. Put in a 
 frying-pan, containing a tablespoonful of very hot butter. 
 Turn them on all sides, to fry crisp. 
 
 Another way is, to put the bread, after cutting it into 
 dice, in a pan, in a slow oven. Let it become crisp and 
 brown. 
 
 Squares of Toast 
 
 arc nice in any kind of broth, especially chicken. Or, in- 
 stead of serving the dice in the broth, have them in a veg- 
 etable dish, and let each one help himself, with a spoon. 
 
 Batter Balls. 
 
 f 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 1 2 tablespoonf uls milk. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 Rub the flour and milk to a paste. Beat in the egg. 
 When the soup is boiling hard, drop in the batter, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time. Boil three minutes. 
 
 Sliced Hard-Boiled Egg. 
 
 Thick slices of egg may be dropped in when the soup 
 is served. These may be accompanied by slices of lemon, 
 or the lemon may be used without the egg. 
 
104 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Stock for Soup. 
 
 "Remarks on Soup" will tell what meat is best to buy. 
 Have the bones well cracked. Weigh them and the meat 
 together. To each pound, put one and one half quarts of 
 cold water, and allow for the boiling an hour to each 
 pound. Throw in a tablespoonful of salt, the more thor- 
 oughly to extract the juices. Cover the pot, and put it 
 on the fire. Boil very slowly, skimming occasionally. 
 
 When the bones separate from the meat, and the meat 
 looks tough and dry, it is time to set the pot off. Strain 
 the liquor into a clean crock, and set away in a cold 
 place, covered only by a cloth. (If covered tight it will 
 ferment.) The next day skim off all the fat from the top, 
 and you have left a rich jellied mass to dip from every 
 time you want to make soup. When warmed, it will re- 
 turn to a liquid state. 
 
 For a family of six, two quarts of this Stock will be 
 required. Add vegetables, or vary the seasoning each 
 day. 
 
 Bouillon. 
 
 This is simply a rich " Stock " made from beef alone, 
 seasoned only with salt and pepper ; without vegetables 
 or any other addition. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. 
 
 1 onion sliced. 
 
 h dozen cloves. 
 
 A bunch of herbs. 
 
 A little pepper and salt. 
 
 1 calf's head. 
 5 quarts cold water. 
 1 tablespoonf ul salt. 
 1 carrot sliced. 
 1 turnip sliced. 
 
 Soak the calf's head in cold water enough to cover it, 
 for one hour. Wash clean and take out the brains. Then 
 boil the head slowly in the five quarts of water, till very 
 tender, and the meat will fall easily from the bones (three 
 or four hours). 
 
Dinner. 105 
 
 Add the salt as soon as it begins to boil, and skim thor- 
 oughly. Tie the brains in a piece of rauslin and boil with 
 the hea8; the last twenty minutes. Strain the liquor and 
 set aside till next day in a cold place. 
 
 Remove the fat and put the liquor on to boil with the 
 vegetables and seasoning. Boil slowly two hours. Strain 
 and return it to the soup kettle, adding a little beef stock 
 if more soup is needed. Have ready some pieces of meat 
 taken from the top of the head and cheeks, when cold, 
 and cut into small squares. Put these into the liquor. 
 Have ready also force-meat balls made as follows : 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 A little sweet marjoram. 
 A little powdered clove. 
 2 eggs (beaten). 
 
 Some of the meat and brains. 
 An equal quantity fine bread- 
 crumbs. 
 
 1 onion (minced). 
 A dash cayenne pepper. 
 
 Chop the meat fine, and mix well with the other things. 
 With floured hands make into balls the size of a large 
 marble. Drop into a frying-pan, containing enough boil- 
 ing butter to brown them well. When done and the soup 
 is boiling well, drop them in, pouring in also the melted 
 butter in which they were fried. Add one tablespoonful 
 browned flour, rubbed to a paste in cold water, and boil 
 about three minutes. Stir in the juice of a lemon, if you 
 like, just before serving. 
 
 Beef Soup. 
 
 Buy a shin of beef. Have the butcher crack the bones. 
 The day before you mean to have the soup, boil the shin, 
 allowing one and one half quarts of cold water to each 
 pound of beef. (For boiling see "Stock for Soup.") 
 After removing the fat the next day, put two quarts of 
 the liquor (stock) on the fire to boil. Heat slowly. Let 
 it begin to boil about fifteen minutes before dinner. Salt 
 and pepper it judiciously, then ; and add a few blades of 
 
106 How to Cook Well. 
 
 mace, a few whole cloves, a pinch of allspice, and sweet 
 marjoram. Be careful not to season too highly. Taste 
 it, before putting in all the spices. If too strong of these, 
 omit the remaining ones. 
 
 When seasoned, pour in two tablespoonfuls of vermi- 
 celli or macaroni with the water in which it has been boil- 
 ing for fifteen minutes. Let all simmer together till din- 
 ner time. After the soup is in the tureen, stir in one 
 tablespoonful Worcestershire Sauce and a tablespoonful 
 "Burnt Sugar" (these are not essential). If you have it, 
 add at the last moment a glass of brown sherry. 
 
 Veal Soup. 
 
 ( A knuckle of veal (weighing about 3 pounds). 
 1 4 quarts cold water. 
 J cup tapioca, soaked. 
 
 Boil the veal with the water about three hours, and set 
 it away. When cold, skim it. Bring it to a boil about 
 twenty minutes before dinner, when add the tapioca, pre- 
 viously boiled for ten minutes. Simmer till this is tender, 
 season and serve. 
 
 Noodle Soup. 
 
 Boil two pounds veal, or one chicken till the meat slips 
 from the bones, skimming well. Strain and season. 
 Have ready the following : 
 
 Noodles. 
 
 Beat up one egg, and add a little salt and flour enough 
 to make a stiff dough. Roll out into a very thin sheet. 
 Dry one hour. Then cut into two-inch squares. Cut 
 these with scissors into shavings about one eighth of an 
 inch wide. Dredge with flour, to keep them from adher- 
 ing together, and drop into the soup while it is boiling fast. 
 Boil ten minutes without stopping. Enough for five. 
 Noodles will keep a long time. 
 
Dinner. 107 
 
 Mutton or Lamb Broth. 
 
 {4 pounds mutton or lamb. 
 A tablcspoonful salt. 
 quarts water. 
 4 tablespoon! uls raw rice. 
 
 Boil the meat in the water, with the salt, for about 
 five hours, not allowing it to boil fast. Strain and set 
 aside to become cold. Remove every bit of grease (this 
 is especially important if the broth is intended for an in- 
 valid). Set back on the stove, and when the broth begins 
 to boil add the rice, with the water in which it has been 
 soaking for about twenty minutes. Boil all together 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 Good mutton-broth is also made of the water in which 
 a leg of mutton has been boiled. Allow to each quart and 
 a half, one tablespoonfui raw rice (soaked). Add season- 
 ing, and boil. 
 
 If not intended for an invalid, capers may be added. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 
 Buy an old fowl. It makes better broth than a young 
 one, if not too old. Weigh it, and cut it into small pieces, 
 removing the skin and cracking the bones well. Proceed 
 as with " Stock." Next day, or when thoroughly cold, 
 take off the fat, and to each one and one half quarts of 
 stock allow one tablespoonfui raw rice. Proceed as with 
 " Mutton Broth." Add a little parsley if you like. 
 
 Chicken or Turksy Soup. 
 
 Make this of the water in which chickens have been 
 boiled ; or of the bones, stuffing and gravy of roast chick- 
 ens or turkey. Thicken with a little rice or cracker- 
 crumbs, and season with minced celery, and a few blades 
 
108 How to Cook Well. 
 
 of mace, if you like. Serve with or without "Croutons." 
 If you wish it richer, add a slice of salt pork while boil- 
 ing, and cream before serving. 
 
 Chicken or Turkey Soup with Oysters. 
 
 Make a good broth by the preceding receipt. When it 
 boils up, omit the rice, but put in a short time before serv- 
 ing, the liquor from three pints of oysters. Add the oys- 
 ters at the last moment, as they should not be allowed to 
 boil till tough. 
 
 Put in a pinch of cayenne pepper and a very little pow- 
 dered mace. 
 
 For this soup, the remains of a dish of " Escalloped Oys- 
 ters," or of " Stewed Oysters " may be used being sure 
 not to let the oysters boil. 
 
 A good addition is, a little celery, cut into fine bits, and 
 boiled with the soup. 
 
 t 
 White Soup, 
 
 c 1 quart chicken broth ( or any 
 \ clear stock). 
 I li cupfuls cream or milk. 
 1 egg (yolk only) or 
 
 li tablespoonfuls mashed po- 
 tato. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 Croutons (may be omitted). 
 
 Heat together the broth and cream. As soon as it boils, 
 pour it over the egg (beaten light) in the tureen^ stirring 
 fast to prevent curdling. Season, and serve with or with- 
 out " Croutons," or squares of toast. 
 
 If you do not use the egg, stir in the potato (previously 
 rubbed to a paste with a little of the broth) while the broth 
 is boiling. Add if you like a few neatly-cut squares of 
 chicken. This makes but a small quantity ; for a family 
 of four. 
 
 Very delicate and delicious ; it is much relished by in- 
 valids. It is nicest with the egg. 
 
Dinner. 
 
 109 
 
 Fotage & la Heine. 
 
 3 c.^gs hard boiled, (yolks only). 
 cupful bread or cracker- 
 crumbs. 
 A little milk. 
 
 White meat of a boiled chicken. 
 1 pint hot cream. 
 
 Liquor from chicken, hot. 
 Salt. 
 Pepper. 
 Celery salt. 
 
 A little chopped onion, if de- 
 sired. 
 
 Mash fine the yolks of the eggs ; soak the bread-crumbs 
 in the milk and mix with the eggs. Chop the white meat 
 of the chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the egg 
 and bread paste. Add the hot cream slowly, and then nib 
 all into the well-seasoned hot liquor, using one quart or 
 more. Boil five minutes. Add more salt if needed ; and if 
 too thick, add a little milk ; or if not thick enough, add 
 more cracker-crumbs. 
 
 This is said to be a favorite with Queen Victoria. 
 
 Save-all Soup. 
 
 Save up beef-bones from roast beef and steak, using also 
 any scraps of underdone meat (even hash, if not cooked 
 too long). In cold weather they will keep for nearly a 
 week, in a cold place, covered. In the meantime collect 
 what is left in the vegetable dishes from day to day, using 
 rice, macaroni, tomatoes, peas or beans (the latter should 
 be mashed smooth). If you have not these, a little mashed 
 potato will be useful. The day before you mean to have 
 the soup boil the bones slowly for two hours. Strain and 
 set aside. Next day skim, and set on the fire half an 
 hour before dinner, with any cold gravy you may have. 
 When it boils, add the cold vegetables, according to judg- 
 ment. Season with salt, pepper, summer savory and 
 thyme, also a little Worcestershire Sauce, if you like, or 
 catsup. 
 
110 How to Cook Well 
 
 N. B. Do not tell the family what it is made of, and 
 they will eat it with a good relish, if seasoned properly ! 
 
 Another way is to use mutton bones, adding the re- 
 mains of chops and cutlets if you have them. Use to- 
 mato (cooked and strained) for thickening ; it " goes well " 
 with mutton. Add rice, too, if you like, or a little 
 mashed potato. Capers or chopped pickle are a pleasant 
 addition. 
 
 Asparagus Soup. 
 
 2 quarts " Stock" (veal is best), 
 f 2 bunches asparagus. 
 1 2 small slices salt pork. 
 
 A little pepper. 
 
 Cut off the tender tips of asparagus, and lay aside 
 while the rest (cut into pieces) is boiling in as little water 
 as possible, with the pork. When tender, strain the water 
 through a colander into the stock, and pulp the asparagus 
 into it, but leave out the pork. Add the asparagus tips 
 and the pepper and boil gently twenty minutes. Serve. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 
 2 potatoes. 
 
 1 a small turnip. 
 
 2 medium-sized carrots. 
 1 large onion (minced). 
 
 1 stick celery (minced). 
 
 1 quart water. 
 
 2 quarts rich " Stock." 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Grate fine the potatoes, turnip and carrots. Put them 
 with the onion and celery in the water, and boil slowly for 
 one hour from the time they begin to boil. Then add 
 stock and seasoning, and boil all together about twenty 
 minutes. Serve without straining out the vegetables. 
 
 Or, the vegetables may be sliced, and all boiled to- 
 gether with the stock for one and one half hours. Strain 
 and serve. 
 
Dinner. Ill 
 
 Okra or Gumbo Soup. 
 
 1 handful parsley (chopped). 
 Plenty of okra (sliced thiii). 
 Boiling water. 
 Salt and pepper (cayenne). 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls lard. 
 2 teaspoonfuls flour. 
 1 good fat chicken. 
 1 thick slice ham. 
 1 onion (chopped fine). 
 
 Put the lard into the soup-pot. When very hot, stir 
 into it the flour. Have ready the chicken, cut into pieces, 
 and the ham, cut small. Put them into the boiling lard, 
 and fry them to a light brown. While they are frying add 
 the onion and parsley. 
 
 Put in the okra when the chicken is partly done, and 
 fry with the rest till it is dissolved. Then add the water ; 
 the quantity depending upon the quantity of okra used. 
 Season well. Stew gently for three hours. 
 
 To vary the Soup, add tomatoes sometimes ; or oysters 
 (as many as you like) with their liquor, or three or four 
 crabs, broken in pieces. 
 
 Black Bean Soup. 
 
 1 cup black kidney beans. 
 3 pints cold water. 
 1 quart stock. 
 
 \ teaspoonful cloves, ground. 
 1 hard-boiled egg. 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Soak the beans over night ; then put them in the water, 
 and boil slowly until perfectly tender. Strain through a 
 colander. Add stock and seasoning ; return to the kettle, 
 and simmer a few minutes. Rub the yolk of the egg to a 
 paste, with a little of the hot liquor, and add it to the soup, 
 with the white of the egg cut into dice. Have ready the 
 lemon, sliced very thin, in the bottom of the tureen. Pour 
 the hot soup over it and serve. 
 
 If you wish the soup very nice, add two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of sherry wine. 
 
 The red kidney beans make a good soup in the same 
 way. 
 
112 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Bean Soup. (Navy Beans.) 
 
 Soak one quart navy beans over night. In the morn- 
 ing boil them in two quarts cold water. When tender 
 rub them through a sieve, mashing to a soft pulp. Put 
 them in the soup-pot, with the water in which they were 
 boiled. Add water in which roast beef bones have been 
 boiled, and season with pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, 
 thyme and four or five cloves. Boil fifteen minutes or 
 longer, and serve. 
 
 If too thick, add water. 
 
 Another way is, to boil with the beans a quarter of a 
 pound of salt pork, also one carrot and three onions 
 sliced. Pulp all together through a colander. Season, 
 add a few cloves ; heat again and serve, without the ad- 
 dition of stock. Good bean soup can be made of cold 
 "Baked Beans." Use what is left for " Bean and Tomato 
 Soup." 
 
 Bean and Tomato Soup. 
 
 Add stewed tomatoes (previously passed through a 
 colander) to "Bean Soup" or "Baked Beans"; the latter 
 are best. If you use "Baked Beans," boil them in a little 
 water, and pulp them also through a colander; season, 
 and add as much boiling water as is necessary. 
 
 Spiced Tomato Soup. 
 
 2 quarts " Stock." 
 
 1 table spoonfuls raw rice (washed). 
 
 1 pint " Stewed Tomatoes" (or canned). 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 A few whole cloves. 
 
 Put the Stock on to boil, or use water in which roast 
 meat bones have been boiled. When boiling throw in 
 the rice and tomatoes. Season with pepper, salt, and 
 cloves, and boil for half an hour. 
 
Dinner. 113 
 
 Or you can use what is left from dinner of rice and 
 tomatoes. 
 
 What soup is left, use to moisten hash. It makes a good 
 seasoning. 
 
 Tomato Soup. (No. 1.) 
 
 2i quarts beef "stock." 
 2 onions, sliced. 
 1 carrot sliced. 
 
 1 turnip sliced. 
 
 2 quarts stewed tomatoes (or canned). 
 
 {I pound butter. 
 3 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 4 teaspoonfuls sugar. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Put on the stock to boil with the vegetables, and boil 
 all together three quarters of an hour. Then strain. 
 Wash the soup-pot and dry it. Then put the butter in it ; 
 when it is hot, add the flour. Mix it well. Pour the 
 soup over it. Then season. Boil up once. Skim it, and 
 pour into the tureen. 
 
 Makes four quarts of soup. 
 
 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 
 Tomato Soup. (No. 2.) 
 
 1 quart sliced tomatoes. 
 1 quart boiling water. 
 1 teaspoonf ul soda, dry. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 Salt, and red pepper. 
 Fine cracker-crumbs. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 Boil the tomatoes in the water until perfectly tender 
 (about one hour) and strain. Then add the soda. When 
 the effervescence subsides, add the milk and butter. Sea- 
 son to taste, putting in enough red pepper to make it de- 
 cidedly hot. Lastly add cracker-crumbs enough to thicken 
 very slightly. Boil up well, and it is ready for the table. 
 
 (Canned tomatoes may be used.) A little chopped 
 parsley is a pleasant addition. 
 
114 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Mock Bisque Soup. 
 
 can tomatoes (or 1 pint raw 
 
 tomatoes). 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 i saltspoonf ul white pepper. 
 
 J cup butter. 
 
 Stew the tomatoes soft enough to strain easily. Boil 
 the milk in a double boiler. Cook a tablespoonful of but- 
 ter and cornstarch together in a small sauce-pan, adding 
 enough of the hot milk to make it pour easily. Stir it 
 carefully into the boiling milk and boil ten minutes. Add 
 the remaining butter in small pieces and stew till well 
 mixed. Add salt and pepper, and the strained tomatoes. 
 
 If the tomatoes are very acid, add half a saltspoonful 
 of soda before straining. Serve very hot. 
 
 More tomatoes can be used, but it is more delicate as 
 above. 
 
 Potato, or Lenten Soup. 
 
 12 large potatoes pared. 
 i cupful butter, nearly. 
 1 medium-sized onion. 
 
 1 pint potato-water, 
 li tablespoonfuls salt. 
 A sprinkling of pepper. 
 
 1 quart new milk. 
 
 One and one half hours before dinner put on the pota- 
 toes to boil. 
 
 One half hour before dinner put the butter into the 
 soup-pot on the stove. When hot add the onion, sliced 
 very thin, and fry it till of a delicate orange color (about 
 fifteen minutes). While the onion is frying, drain the 
 water from the boiled potatoes. Save it, and mash the 
 potatoes. When the slices of onion are done, pour on them 
 the milk, and one pint of the potato-water. Let all come 
 to a boil. Mix two full cupfuls of the hot mashed potatoes 
 till smooth in the boiling soup. Boil all together for a 
 few minutes, stirring constantly ; season and dish. 
 
 Cold mashed potato (left over) may be used, but it is 
 harder to work smooth. 
 
Dinner. 115 
 
 Let the name of this good soup deter no one from try- 
 ing it. It is easily and quickly made (which cannot be 
 said of all soups), and will soon become a favorite with 
 housekeepers, especially in cases of emergency. Enough 
 for a family of six or seven. 
 
 Another. 
 
 5 or 6 potatoes pared. 
 
 3 or 4 large sticks celery. 
 
 4 inches square salt pork. 
 
 Milk. 
 
 Parsley (may be omitted). 
 
 Croutons. 
 
 1 large tablespooiif ul butter. 
 
 An hour before dinner put to boil the potatoes, celery, 
 and salt pork, all together. When tender, pass through 
 a colander, with the water. Add, while hot, a large table- 
 spoonful of butter, and milk enough to make it the consist- 
 ency of cream. Return all to the stove, and boil five 
 minutes. Put " Croutons " in the tureen, and pour the hot 
 soup over. 
 
 Green Pea Soup. 
 
 f l quarts shelled peas. i f 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 
 \ 3 quarts cold water. \ 1 teaspoouf ul flour. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Take old peas, which though not fit to serve as a vege- 
 table, make the best kind of soup. Boil them in the 
 water, slowly, for a long time perhaps four hours 
 until the peas are tender. Then mash them through a 
 colander, also pouring the water through. By pouring 
 the water a little at a time the pulp of the peas will pass 
 through more readily. Leave nothing behind but the 
 skins. 
 
 Return the now creamy broth to the fire. When it be- 
 gins to boil, season. Rub the butter in the flour till 
 smooth. Add it to the soup, which is now ready to serve. 
 (If you have it, boil a ham-bone with the peas.) If you 
 choose omit the butter, and instead boil with the peas one 
 fourth of a pound of salt pork. 
 
116 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Corn Soup. 
 
 12 ears of corn. 
 3 quarts water. 
 1 pint milk (or chicken broth.) 
 
 {\ 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 
 teaspoonful flour. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Cut the corn from half the cobs, and grate it from the 
 rest. Boil the cobs in the water till the water is reduced 
 about one half ; then strain, and return to the fire. Add 
 the corn and milk. When it boils, put in the butter 
 (rolled in the flour) and season. Boil all together twenty- 
 five minutes, longer if the corn is old. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 1 quart oysters. 
 1 cupful water. 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 Salt, cayenne pepper and mace. 
 
 Strain the liquor from the oysters, and add the water. 
 Put them in a do.uble-boiler. When it begins to boil, add 
 the milk. When this boils put in the butter (previously 
 rubbed in the flour), then the oysters. As soon as they 
 begin to look ruffled around the edges, set the kettle 
 back on the stove till you can dish the soup. If it contin- 
 ues to boil) the oysters will become tough and hard. From 
 three to five minutes will be long enough. Season just 
 before serving, using very little salt. 
 
 Put one half a cup of oyster crackers in the tureen be- 
 fore pouring on the hot soup. 
 
 Clam Soup. 
 
 1 quart clams (chopped fine). 
 1 quart milk and water (mixed). 
 1 cupful sliced raw potatoes. 
 of an onion (minced). 
 
 J cupful butter. ^ , 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 Allspice (if you like). 
 
 Boil together till tender the clams, milk, and vegeta- 
 bles (about three quarters of an hour), using also the clam 
 liquor. Cut the butter in pieces, roll them in the flour, 
 
Dinner. 117 
 
 and add with the seasoning when the clams are tender. 
 Serve with a few oyster crackers in the tureen, or mix in 
 rolled cracker crumbs if you like. The soup is good with- 
 out either. Add milk if too thick. 
 
 Salt pork (one fourth of a pound) may be used instead 
 of butter. In this case fry the onion in it in the soup-pot; 
 then add the other things. When sufficiently boiled, 
 thicken with the Hour, season and serve. 
 
 PISH. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 FISH is not fit to eat unless fresh, or frozen. If frozen 
 it may be kept for weeks in winter, but be sure not to let 
 it thaw till immediately before cooking it. Then lay it in 
 cold water for an hour or so to thaw. Do not buy fish 
 unless the eyes are prominent and bright, the gills bright 
 red, and the body firm ; the absence of these signs shows 
 that the fish is not fresh. Fish bought in market are 
 usually ready cleaned, but for the convenience of those 
 who enjoy the luxury of fishing themselves I will give di- 
 rections for this. 
 
 Fish should be scaled and cleaned as soon as possible 
 after being caught. In doing this use as little water as 
 possible, though enough must be used to wash them thor- 
 oughly afterwards. Begin by scraping off every one of the 
 scales. Then, if the fish is smalt or intended for broiling 
 or frying, split it down the back, and remove all the en- 
 trails. If large, or intended for baking or boiling whole, 
 open it as little as possible ; cut it in front from the gills 
 downward about two inches, put in your finger and draw 
 the entrails up, taking care not to break the gall-bag, or 
 the whole fish will taste bitter. The blood must all be 
 
118 How to Cook Well. 
 
 scraped and washed out. Pond fish and flounders should 
 be soaked for an hour in strong salt and water, to take 
 away the earthy taste. 
 
 Keep a fish in the coldest place you can find, until 
 ready to cook it. If it is to be kept over night, rub it well 
 with salt on every side, and scatter salt thickly over the 
 inside ; it will easily wash off in the morning. 
 
 The largest fish, such as Salmon and Halibut are bought 
 in market already cut into pieces for boiling or steaks for 
 broiling or frying. 
 
 Cod is often boiled, but other fish of the same size, such 
 as Blue Fish, are usually baked, with the exception of 
 Shad, which is best broiled. Mackerel should be broiled 
 or fried. Smelts are always fried ; and so are most small 
 fish, commonly called Pan-fish. 
 
 I cannot give rules for cooking every kind of fish, they 
 are too numerous. Suffice it to say that the directions for 
 cooking one will apply to any other of the same size. 
 
 To Boil Pish. 
 
 Wash and wipe the fish. Rub a little salt along the 
 bone and on the thick part. Lay the fish in a clean cloth, 
 previously dipped into hot water and dredged with flour 
 to prevent sticking. Draw it together to fit the shape of the 
 fish, and sew it, having but one thickness of cloth around 
 the fish. (Some persons use a fish-kettle ; then sewing in 
 a cloth is needless. But any one who will take the trouble 
 to use the cloth will find that the fish, though it requires 
 a little dexterity to turn it out, will have a far finer flavor 
 than that which is boiled in a fish-kettle.) Put it into 
 cold water enough to cover it, with a tablespoonf ul of salt 
 and a tablespoonf ul of vinegar. (If you put it into boiling 
 water the inside will have a raw taste.) Notice when it be- 
 gins to boil, and counting from that time allow it to boil 
 about fifteen minutes for each pound, though different 
 
Dinner. 119 
 
 kinds of fish require a longer or shorter time to boil. It 
 should boil rather font. Take off any scum that may rise. 
 
 When done (which can be ascertained by opening a 
 corner of the cloth and piercing with a fork) take the fish 
 out. Lay it on a platter while you cut the threads, and 
 fold back the cloth. Invert another platter on it, and 
 very quickly and dexterously turn the fish out on it. 
 Take off the cloth, wipe the edges of the platter if at all 
 smeared, and pour " Drawn Butter " over and around the 
 fish. Serve more in a gravy boat. 
 
 Lay slices of hard-boiled egg over the fish and around 
 the platter ; also parsley, if you can get it, and add a few 
 capers. Or use " Egg-sauce." 
 
 If you use a fish-kettle allow only ten minutes or less to 
 the pound, for boiling. 
 
 Boiled Cod. 
 (See To Boil Fish.) 
 
 A cod-fish is so much thicker at one end than the other, 
 that it is impossible to have all parts evenly cooked in 
 boiling. So it is a good plan to cut the fish in half, boil- 
 ing the head and shoulders (the thickest part) for dinner, 
 and reserving the thin end to boil for breakfast next day. 
 It will keep if sprinkled thickly with salt on the inside. 
 
 To use what is left of Boiled Cod see Boiled Halibut. 
 
 Boiled Halibut. 
 
 Buy a thick piece to boil. Boil like other fish (see "To 
 Boil Fish"), but without a cloth, if you choose, as the 
 texture of this fish is so firm as not to be in danger of 
 breaking, if boiled slowly. Boil five or ten minutes to the 
 pound, from the time it begins to boil. 
 
 Cold Halibut can be made use of in a great variety of 
 ways. Use what is left for Fish Salad, Escaloped Fish, 
 Fish Hash or Fish Balls, Pat6s, or Croquettes. 
 
120 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Boiled Salmon. 
 
 (See " To Boil Fish.") Salmon requires more con- 
 stant skimming than other fish, and also takes longer to 
 boil. Allow twenty minutes to each pound from the time 
 it begins to boil. Use warm water, or it will lose its 
 color. Serve with " Cream Sauce." 
 
 Mix what is left over with the sauce, and warm for 
 breakfast. Or make into " Fish Balls." 
 
 Fish Au Court Bouillon. 
 
 3 pounds fish of any kind. 
 / 14 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 I i pint chopped onions. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls Browned Flour. " 
 
 1 pint chopped tomatoes. 
 
 1 pint water. 
 
 pint claret wine. 
 
 1 tablespoonful parsley (chopped). 
 
 1 teaspoonftil powdered thyme. 
 
 teaspoonf ul powdered cloves. 
 
 teaspoonful powdered allspice. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Fry the onions in the butter in a deep kettle. Add the 
 flour, and stir well. Put in the tomatoes ; water, wine, 
 parsley, spices, and seasoning. Let it all come to a boil. 
 Then add the fish, previously sliced. Let it simmer forty 
 minutes. 
 
 Baked Fish (of the size of Cod, Blackfish or Shad). 
 
 Make a stuffing by either of the following rules, and fill 
 the fish, previously washed and wiped dry. Or butter 
 thin slices of bread, sprinkle them with salt, pepper and a 
 few drops of water. Stuff the fish, and sew it up with a 
 needle and thread. Skewer the head and tail together, or 
 tie with twine. Lay it on an earthen platter, in which it 
 should be served, as it is difficult to remove a baked fish 
 
Dinner. 121 
 
 without breaking. Flour it well. Put a few thin slices of 
 salt pork on top of the fish, with skewers, and sprinkle salt 
 over it. Baste it about once in every ten minutes with the 
 liquor which cooks out of it. Add a little water if there 
 is not enough. 
 
 Allow fifteen minutes to the pound for baking fish. 
 The oven should be moderately hot ; if very hot it will not 
 cook well in the middle. Brown it well. When it can be 
 easily pierced by a fork, take it from the oven, remove 
 the skewers, pork and thread, and serve. Garnish, if you 
 like, with sprigs of parsley and slices of lemon. Or lay 
 "Fried Oysters" around the dish. If you choose, scatter 
 over the fish drops of Madeira wine or lemon-juice. 
 
 Or, serve simply with catsup or Worcestershire sauce. 
 
 For another way to bake fish see Baked Blue Fish. 
 
 Stuffing for Baked Fish. 
 (See page 147.) 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls chopped ham fat may be used in- 
 stead of butter. It is economical, and gives a pleasant 
 flavor. 
 
 Mashed Potato makes a good stuffing for fish. 
 
 Onion Stuffing for Fish. 
 
 8 large onions (chopped). 
 4 cupful bread-crumbs. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 A little pepper. 
 
 Anchovy sauce enough to give a 
 
 red color to the stuffing. 
 
 Mix all well together. Tomatoes may be used in place 
 of Anchovy Sauce. In that case use salt pork (chopped) 
 instead of butter. 
 
 Mississippi River Steamboat Stuffing for Fish. 
 
 Cut raw corn from the cob, add to it one third as much 
 raw tomatoes (chopped coarse). Dredge well with flour, 
 and add a beaten egg, having mixed them well together. 
 
122 ttow to Cook Well. 
 
 Season with salt and pepper and one teaspoonful melted 
 butter, and stuff the fish. Bake as usual. 
 
 Fish served in this way is popular on the Mississippi 
 River steamboats. 
 
 Baked Blue Fish. 
 
 y. 
 
 Wash the fish. Do not remove the head or tail. Stuff 
 it with "Stuffing for Baked Fish" (see page 121), and 
 sew it up. Put into a dripping-pan a slice of salt pork, 
 cut into strips. Fry on top of the stove till crisp, then 
 add to it half a cupful of boiling water. Lay in the 
 fish. Sprinkle the top with hot water; dredge thickly 
 with flour, and lay bits of butter over the entire top. 
 
 Bake one hour, in a moderate oven, basting it often 
 with the water in the pan, so that it will not become dry. 
 If the water wastes away in the pan, add more (boiling). 
 When done, take out the string with which it was sewed. 
 Put on a hot platter, while you make the gravy. 
 
 Set the dripping-pan on top of the stove. When the 
 gravy boils, dredge in more flour (stirring fast), and add 
 butter, pepper and salt. Pour over the fish, and lay slices 
 of lemon on top. 
 
 (Grated horse-radish may be substituted for the lemon.) 
 
 This is the nicest way to cook Blue Fish, as it is more 
 sure of being cooked through than by any of the other 
 ways, and the delicious flavor is well drawn out. 
 
 Halibut (baked). 
 
 Buy either a thick slice as for boiling, or thinner ones as 
 for frying. In the latter case, pile them up with lumps of 
 butter between the slices. 
 
 Put several lumps of butter in the bottom of a tin pan. 
 Lay in the fish, sprinkled with pepper and salt, and set it 
 in the oven which should not be very hot. In about fifteen 
 minutes pour over it one pint boiling water (or enough for 
 
Dinner. 123 
 
 gravy), flour it, and leave it till it is tender when pierced 
 by a fork. Then put the fish in a platter, with a little but- 
 ter, and keep it hot while you make the gravy. Set the 
 pan on top of the stove, let the gravy boil, and thicken it 
 by dredging in flour. Stir while it thickens, and then pour 
 over the fish. 
 
 One pound will bake in half an hour. An improvement 
 is to add catsup to the gravy, or dot the fish with spoon- 
 fuls of currant jelly. 
 
 Fried Fish. 
 
 Wash the fish and wipe dry. Lay them in a towel long 
 enough to absorb the moisture, then rub them with salt, 
 and dredge with flour, or roll in corn-meal. Have ready 
 five or six slices of salt pork fried to a crisp. Take them 
 out and lay the fish whole if very small, split if larger, in 
 the boiling fat in the frying-pan. Be sure to have plenty 
 of fat, enough to half cover the fish. Fry over a very hot 
 fire ; turn when half done, and when brown on both sides 
 serve at once, having the head of one to the tail of the 
 next in the platter. 
 
 It is an improvement to dip the fish into beaten egg b 
 fore dredging them. Lard may be used in place of salt 
 pork, but it does not give so good a flavor. 
 
 Fish Steaks (fried). 
 
 Buy steaks of halibut, salmon, or any very large fish. 
 Have them cut about one inch thick. Wash and wipe dry. 
 Dip each into a beaten egg, on a plate, then into fine 
 crumbs or better still, corn meal, and lay in a frying-pan, 
 containing enough boiling lard to half cover the fish. Or 
 four or five slices of salt pork may be used instead of lard. 
 When half done, turn and brown the other side, and 
 
124 How to Cook Well 
 
 sprinkle with salt and pepper. The fish should fry in ten 
 minutes. 
 
 Lay the steaks neatly on a hot platter ; and garnish, if 
 you choose, with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. 
 
 To Broil Fish. 
 
 "Wash and wipe the fish and dredge it with flour. But- 
 ter a toaster ; lay the fish on it, open flat, with the inside 
 toward the coals. If the fish is heavy, lay the toaster on 
 a gridiron. If large and thick, let it heat through gradu- 
 ally, and cook it slowly a long time to ensure its being 
 done in the inside. Keep it covered with a pan, and oc- 
 casionally wet the top with melted butter, to prevent its 
 getting dry. Turn the toaster when half done. This is a 
 better way than to use a knife and fork in turning the fish. 
 Increase the heat towards the last, or put the fish nearer 
 the coals. Some large fish take an hour to broil. Those 
 should be watched carefully, as it is a difficult operation 
 to cook one successfully. 
 
 If the fish is small it can be cooked more quickly, over 
 a hotter fire. Season broiled fish just before dishing; 
 after dishing put bits of butter over the top. 
 
 Broiled Shad. 
 
 (See " To Broil Fish.") 
 
 It will take twenty minutes to broil shad ; longer if the 
 fish is large. Increase the heat towards the last, so that the 
 fish will be done through. 
 
 Delicate Shad. 
 
 Wash the shad, and wipe it dry. With a sharp pocket- 
 knife remove all the bones. Butter a gridiron. Place the 
 shad on it, flat, over hot coals, and broil for five minutes, 
 with the inside down. Transfer carefully to a flat tin 
 sheet buttered. Dredge it with flour. Scatter on a little 
 
Dinner. 125 
 
 salt and a very little cayenne pepper. Then pour over 
 the entire surface a tablespoonful of melted butter. Set it 
 in the oven, which should be moderately hot, and bake it 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 Serve on a platter, with bits of butter laid on. Servo 
 with it in a gravy-boat, "Asparagus Sauce," or pour it 
 over the fish. 
 
 Pried Shad. 
 
 Get a roe-shad, if possible, for this. Wash, wipe, and 
 cut the shad into eight pieces, removing fins and tail. 
 Lay them in a cloth to absorb the moisture. When ready 
 to cook dredge with flour and lay the fish with the roe 
 (also floured) in a hot frying-pan, in which there is enough 
 boiling lard to half cover the fish. At the end of five min- 
 utes, salt and pepper the fish and turn it. Salt and pepper 
 the other side. When brown and tender lay the fish on a 
 hot platter, with the roe. 
 
 As most persons have no frying-pan large enough to 
 hold a whole shad at once, a good way is, to fry half first, 
 and place it on the table with half the roe ; and after- 
 wards bring in a second supply hot. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 Soak smelts in warm water for fifteen minutes ; then 
 scrape them. Remove the long dark vein that runs 
 through the body, by gently putting off the head, first 
 loosening it slightly with a knife. After this, rinse them, 
 and lay them in a cloth to dry. Then roll each in a plate 
 of corn meal. Fry them delicately in deep lard (or enough 
 to half cover them), boiling hot when they are put in, and 
 kept so till the fish are brown. Sprinkle them with salt 
 when you dish them ; if put on when you begin to cook 
 them they will not brown. 
 
 Serve tastefully with parsley. 
 
126 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Perch. 
 
 Dress and fry whole like smelts. They take longer to 
 fry. They can be hastened, and also made to look pretty 
 by cutting them half through at intervals on each side be- 
 fore frying. 
 
 Mackerel. 
 (See Broiled Fish.} 
 
 It takes fifteen minutes to broil. Or, it may be fried. 
 (See Fried Fish.} 
 
 Allow nearly half an hour to fry it, if large and thick. 
 Do not have the fire too hot at first. 
 
 Salmon a Plndienne. 
 
 Broil a salmon steak. While it is broiling make the fol- 
 lowing sauce : 
 
 Put a small piece of butter in a sauce-pan. When 
 melted, dredge in a little curry powder, and a little flour. 
 Stir it until smooth, and thick as cream. Add a little 
 gravy. Boil five minutes ; then stir in a spoonful of chow- 
 chow, made with mustard, and chopped coarse. Boil five 
 minutes more. 
 
 Have ready a hot platter, with some hot mashed potato 
 in the centre, flattened on top. Lay the fish on the potato, 
 and pour the sauce around it. Serve very hot. 
 
 Escaloped Fish. 
 
 Boil about two pounds of any kind of fish ; or use fish 
 left from dinner. Pick it to shreds with a knife and fork, 
 while you prepare the following sauce : 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 onion. 
 
 1 bunch parsley. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 A pinch red or black pepper. 
 
 3 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 
 Boil the milk with the onion and parsley. When the 
 
 flavor is extracted from these, strain them out, and thicken 
 
Dinner. 127 
 
 the milk while boiling, by stirring in the flour, previously 
 rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Add the butter and 
 seasoning. 
 
 Moisten the fish with some of the sauce. Then put fish 
 and sauce in layers in a buttered pudding-dish, having 
 sauce on top. Cover with crumbs and bits of butter. 
 Bake in a quick oven nearly half an hour. 
 
 A wineglass of wine poured over all, just before serving, 
 is an improvement. A little chopped celery may be sub- 
 stituted for the parsley if preferred. 
 
 No. 2. Make as above, but add a layer of cold boiled 
 potatoes (sliced) over each layer of fish. 
 
 No. 3, 1 pint milk. 
 
 f Butter size of an egg. 
 
 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 
 8 eggs, well-beaten. 
 
 Boil the milk ; rub the butter and flour together and add 
 them. Let it boil a minute ; then pour over the eggs, stir- 
 ring fast. Sprinkle salt, pepper and grated nutmeg on 
 the shredded fish, and place alternate layers of it and the 
 sauce in a dish until filled. Cover the top with bread- 
 crumbs and bake twenty minutes. 
 
 A delicious dish. 
 
 Casserole of Fish. 
 
 1 cupful cold fish. 
 
 A little milk. 
 
 A lump of butter. 
 
 1 cupful mashed potato. 
 
 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Flake the fish and moisten it with the milk and butter. 
 Butter a small mould, and put in alternate layers of po- 
 tato, fish and slices of egg, with sprinklings of salt and 
 pepper. Stearn twenty minutes ; turn out in a hot platter 
 and garnish with parsley. 
 
128 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Spiced Fish (for Luncheon or Tea). 
 
 6 cloves. 
 
 6 allspice kernels. 
 
 6 pepper corns. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul brown sugar. 
 
 1 cupful sharp vinegar. 
 1 pint cold flaked fish (any 
 kind). 
 
 Steep the spices in the vinegar for ten minutes, and 
 pour over the fish. Serve cold. 
 
 To Pickle Fish. 
 
 Any fish may be pickled in this way. Wash and cut 
 the fish into pieces about six inches square. Boil them till 
 very tender and bloodless. Take out the pieces carefully, 
 so as not to break them. Lay them in a stone jar ; and 
 pour over them, while hot, the following pickle, which 
 should be prepared while the fish is boiling. 
 
 2 quarts vinegar. 1 dozen blades of mace. 
 
 1 pint of the water in which the 
 
 fish is boiled. 
 1 onion (sliced fine). 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls made mustard, 
 i dozen whole cloves. 
 A little pepper and salt. 
 
 There is no need to boil the vinegar. When ready the 
 pickled fish should be kept tightly covered, and in a cold 
 place. 
 
 Use it within a few days, as it will not keep long. 
 
 Nice for lunch or tea in summer. 
 
 Potted Fish. 
 
 Any kind of large fish will do. Take out the backbone, 
 and let it lie in cold water salted for two hours. Cut it in 
 slices and put in a stone jar, sprinkling each layer with 
 salt, red pepper, allspice and cloves, or cinnamon, also put 
 in little bits of butter, and a dredging of flour. Pour over 
 all enough vinegar to cover the fish. Tie a cloth close 
 over the top of the jar, and cover with a plate as close as 
 possible. Bake in a very steady oven, for six hours if the 
 
Dinner. 129 
 
 quantity is large ; or set it in a pot of cold water, and boil 
 from three to five hours, according to quantity. 
 
 Leave it in the jar all night. 
 
 Turn out and cut in thin slices. 
 
 To every two pounds of fish, allow one tablespoonf ul of 
 allspice and cloves or cinnamon mixed. More would be 
 too much. 
 
 Stewed Fish. 
 
 Cut any kind of fish into squares, and put them in a 
 saucepan. Cover with cold water. Boil gently till ten- 
 der. Then rub a large lump of butter with about half as 
 much flour till smooth. Moisten with a little of the boil- 
 ing water from the fish, and add it to the contents of the 
 saucepan. Add pepper and salt, and a cupful of cream or 
 milk. Let it boil up once, and serve hot. 
 
 N. B. If you have but a small amount of fish, or if you 
 like, add sliced potatoes and onion or chopped celery 
 when you put the fish on. 
 
 A nice dish for breakfast or tea. 
 
 Pish & Pltalienne. 
 
 1 quart stewed tomatoes. 
 4 pounds fish, any kind. 
 
 2 onions (sliced thin). 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 cupful sweet oil. 
 
 The tomatoes must be stewed till tender. While they 
 are cooking, cut the fish (previously washed) into square 
 pieces. Have the oil in a deep kettle on the fire. When 
 hot, put in the onions, and fry them. Then add the fish. 
 Strain the tomatoes (mashing them well) through a colan- 
 der. Pour them on the fish in the kettle. Add salt and 
 pepper. Cover the kettle close, and stew for one hour, 
 taking care that it does not burn. When done, the fish 
 will be tender, and will look red. 
 
 This may well be described as " a Pretty Kettle of Fish ! " 
 
130 How to CooJe Well 
 
 Fish. Chowder. 
 
 5 pounds codfish or sea-bass. 
 1 pound salt pork (chopped). 
 4 or 5 onions (sliced). 
 3 large potatoes (sliced). 
 
 A few pounded crackers. 
 A few whole crackers. 
 Milk or water. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Cut the fish into pieces three or four inches long. Put 
 in the bottom of a deep kettle a layer of the pork, then 
 one of fish, one of potatoes, one of onions, and one of 
 pounded crackers. Season with a very little pepper and 
 salt. Repeat the layers in this order. Make a layer on 
 top of all of whole crackers, buttered. Pour over all 
 enough milk or water to cover it well. Cover the pot. 
 
 Stew slowly for an hour. Transfer to the tureen care- 
 fully, so as not to break the pieces of fish. 
 
 If you choose, omit the pounded crackers, and dredge 
 the fish and potatoes with flour. 
 
 Cape Cod Chowder. 
 
 1 codfish (very fresh). 
 
 3 or 4 slices salt pork. 
 
 1 dozen hard crackers (soaked slightly) . 
 
 4 or 5 onions (sliced). 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Put the salt pork in the bottom of a deep kettle. Fry 
 it brown, then take it out, and put into the fat half the 
 crackers and onions, then the fish (cut into pieces about 
 four inches long), then the rest of the crackers and 
 onions. Season with pepper and salt. Pour over all 
 enough boiling water to cover it well. Cover the kettle, 
 and stew slowly for one hour. 
 
 N. B. Allow one pound of salt pork to four pounds of 
 fish. Dish carefully, so as not to break the pieces. 
 
 A Rich Chowder. 
 
 Like either of the above, with the addition of spices, 
 butter rubbed in flour, parsley, mushrooms, and wine. 
 
Dinner. 131 
 
 Stewed Eels. 
 
 Skin and clean, removing all the fat from the inside ; 
 cut into pieces less than two inches long ; stew slowly in 
 cold salted water enough to cover them, for one hour. 
 Add then one tablespoonful of butter, a little pepper, one 
 tablespoon ful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Stir 
 till it thickens well. Serve hot in a covered dish. 
 
 Fried Eels. 
 
 Prepare as for stewing. Roll in flour or corn meal, and 
 fry in hot lard or beef drippings, until brown. 
 
 Ways to Use Cold Fish. 
 
 Escalloped Fish. 
 Casserole of Fish. 
 Spiced Fish. 
 Fish Salad. 
 
 Fish Balls. 
 Fish Pates. 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 Fish Hash. 
 
 SHELL FISH. 
 To Open Clams. 
 
 Wash them clean. Then put them in a deep kettle, 
 with a very little water in the bottom. Cover close and 
 set on the fire. When the water boils and the steam rises 
 the shells will open, and the clams can easily be taken out. 
 
 This is a better way than to pour a quantity of boiling 
 water over them, for the liquor is all saved, without being 
 much weakened by water. 
 
 N. B. If any of the clams have already opened, those 
 must be rejected as not good. 
 
 Clam Chowder. 
 
 2 slices fat pork. 
 
 3 large potatoes (sliced). 
 2 quarts hot water. 
 
 4 ship-biscuit (broken). 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 1 pint clams (measured after 
 being taken from the shell). 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 Put the pork in the soup-pot. When browned add the 
 
132 How to Cook Well. 
 
 potatoes and the water. Boil till the potatoes are nearly 
 done. Then put in the ship-biscuit, milk and butter. Let 
 these come to a boil. Then add the clams with their 
 liquor. Boil ten minutes, and serve. 
 
 Clam Pie. 
 
 Butter a pudding-dish. Put a cup upside down in the 
 centre, to keep the crust from falling in, and to prevent 
 the liquor from boiling over. Season the clams with pep- 
 per, salt, and butter (melted). Fill the dish, and cover 
 with a " Puff Paste," rolled nearly one inch thick. Cut a 
 slit in the centre, and bake in a moderately slow oven, 
 about three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Clam Broth. 
 
 Wash the clams perfectly clean. Put them in a kettle, 
 and nearly cover them with boiling water. Boil till the 
 shells open. Then take out the clams, separate them from 
 the shells, and put them back in the water. Boil them 
 only a few minutes. Add a lump of butter, and thicken 
 slightly with a little flour (previously rubbed to a paste). 
 Have ready three or four toasted crackers. Lay them in 
 the bottom of a tureen, and pour the broth over. (Ex- 
 cellent for invalids, as it is nutritious and easily digested.) 
 
 Escaloped Clams. 
 
 Chop clams very fine. Season with pepper and salt, also 
 a dash of curry powder if you like it. Have ready bread or 
 cracker crumbs, moistened with a little milk. Put layers 
 of these and clams in a deep buttered dish. Bake in a 
 moderate oven for about one hour (covered the first half 
 hour) . 
 
 Raw Oysters. 
 
 "Wash the shells thoroughly, and wipe dry. Open them, 
 remove the upper shell, but leave the other, with the oys- 
 ter in it. Place them on a platter, with two lemons cut in 
 
Dinner. 133 
 
 quarters. Serve pepper and salt with them, and let each 
 person squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice over the oys- 
 ters, or use vinegar if preferred. 
 
 Stewed Oysters (plain). 
 
 Boil oysters for three minutes. Then dredge with flour, 
 sprinkle with pepper, add a bit of butter, and pour into a 
 dish lined with slices of toast, buttered. 
 
 Stewed Oysters with Milk. 
 
 JJoil one pint milk. Add one teaspoonful flour rubbed 
 smooth in a little cold water. Then put in the liquor from 
 one quart oysters. When it boils up again, add one tea- 
 spoonful of butter, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne 
 pepper and mace. Put in the oysters, and boil about 
 three minutes, t. e. till the oysters begin to look ruffled 
 around the edges. Serve at once, or they will be tough. 
 
 Pass around with them a plate of oyster crackers. 
 
 Stewed Oysters with Celery. 
 (James Parkinson, Philadelphia.} 
 
 1 pint strong beef -broth. 
 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 4 ounces butter. 
 3 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls white pepper. 
 2 teaspoonf uls ground mace. 
 
 1 bunch celery (or 1 teaspoonful celery salt). 
 A little powdered cracker. 
 A little corn starch. 
 60 fresh large oysters. 
 
 Put the first seven ingredients into a saucepan, the but- 
 ter being cut into small pieces, and the celery chopped 
 fine. Let it boil till the celery is tender. Then dredge in 
 (a very little at a time) the powdered cracker and corn 
 starch until slightly thickened. 
 
134 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Have ready the oysters, parboiled in their own juice 
 (without adding water) ; put them in a hot tureen, and 
 pour over them the sauce made as above. Serve with the 
 stew a plate of Cornstarch crackers. 
 
 Few persons can get cream enough for this receipt ; 
 milk may be substituted by using a larger quantity of but- 
 ter. 
 
 Stewed Oysters in the French Style. 
 
 1 quart oysters. 
 Cold water. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 Butter, size of a walnut. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 Onion, size of a chestnut. 
 
 A little parsley, or celery tops. 
 
 Drain the oysters. Put the liquor in a kettle by itself. 
 Add water enough for soup required for the number of 
 people at dinner. Season with salt and pepper ; let this 
 boil, skimming the entire time. Rub the butter and flour 
 together, and the onion, minced fine. Brown well in a 
 pan. Add this to the oyster liquor; put in the oysters, 
 and boil about three minutes. 
 
 Mince the parsley, or young celery leaves. Put them in 
 a soup tureen and pour in the oysters. 
 
 This preparation of oysters may be served for tea, on a 
 platter, by using only half a cupful of water. In this case, 
 add the parsley, after the oysters are dished. 
 
 Pried Oysters. 
 
 Select large, firm oysters to fry. Drain the liquor from 
 them and lay in a cloth for a few minutes, to absorb the 
 moisture. " Egg-and-crumb " them. Lay them carefully 
 in a frying-pan containing boiling hot butter deep enough 
 to cover them, or use butter and lard mixed. Brown deli- 
 cately, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, and serve at 
 once. 
 
Dinner. 135 
 
 Oysters Fried in Oil. 
 
 Select large oysters, firm-fleshed and highly flavored. 
 Drain and thoroughly dry them on a towel. Beat up an 
 equal bulk of eggs and cream, and a little salt. Dip the 
 oysters very carefully into this mixture, one by one. 
 Have ready some fine bread-crumbs, passed through a 
 sieve. As you take each oyster out of the egg-and-crearn 
 mixture, roll it carefully in the bread-crumbs, till every 
 part is covered. Lay aside the oysters in a cool place for 
 half an hour. 
 
 Then fry in hot olive oil. Do not let them cook too 
 long. As soon as they assume a rich golden tint, remove 
 them with a skimmer. Drain and serve on a napkin with 
 sprigs of parsley, and bits of lemon. 
 
 Broiled Oysters. 
 
 Procure as large oysters as possible. Grease well 
 with butter a double gridiron, made of wire. Place the 
 oysters on it, and carefully fold down the other half of the 
 gridiron on them. Broil over a perfectly clear fire, very 
 quickly. When half done, turn the gridiron over and 
 cook the other side. Turn only once. Do not let the 
 oysters burn or cook too long, which makes them tough. 
 
 Have ready several slices of toast, delicately browned. 
 Moisten slightly in cream or milk and spread evenly with 
 butter, previously melted, into which has been sprinkled a 
 little salt, and a dash of cayenne pepper, and a little 
 lemon juice added. Cut the toast into quarter slices. On 
 each of these small squares place an oyster, with a little of 
 the melted butter on top. 
 
 Steamed Oysters. 
 
 Wash oysters in the shell, and put them in a steamer, 
 with the deepest side down, so that the liquor will not be 
 lost. Steam until they open, about twenty minutes ; serve 
 
136 How to Cook Well 
 
 in the half shell, with vinegar, salt and pepper. They 
 should not be allowed to stand a moment more than nec- 
 essary, before being eaten. They should not be served 
 until after the guests are seated. 
 
 Roast Oysters. 
 
 Wash the shells and lay them (the deepest side down), 
 upon hot coals, or in a very hot oven. When they begin 
 to open they are done. Remove the upper shell, by means 
 of a knife. Season the oysters with pepper, salt and but- 
 ter, and serve in the half-shell, or upon buttered toast. 
 
 Another Way is to remove the upper shell before cook- 
 ing. Sprinkle the oysters with pepper and salt, and lay a 
 bit of butter on each. Lay in a dripping-pan, and bake 
 about eight minutes in a hot oven. Serve at once. This 
 is the best way if eaten at table ; if at a picnic cook on 
 coals in the shells, without opening. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 
 Cover the bottom and sides of a buttered pudding-dish 
 with a thick layer of fine cracker or bread crumbs. Then put 
 in a layer of oysters ; sprinkle with a pinch of red pepper, 
 and the same of mace (be sure not to have too much of 
 either) ; also a very little salt. Cover with dots of butter, 
 and put another layer of crumbs. Repeat until the dish 
 is full. Have the top layer of crumbs. Put bits of butter 
 over it, and pour over the whole a little of the oyster 
 liquor, or milk. Do not use too much liquor ; half a cup- 
 ful to a quart of oysters is enough, as oysters give out a 
 good deal of moisture in cooking, and if the mixture is 
 very wet, it is not so good. 
 
 Bake a quart of oysters half an hour ; a larger dish will 
 take longer. The oven should be moderately hot, and the 
 dish kept covered until the last ten minutes. Then brown 
 quickly on the top shelf of the oven. Omit red pepper 
 and mace, if preferred. 
 
Dinner. 137 
 
 Pickled Oysters. 
 
 100 oysters (fresh). 
 
 1 pint best white wine vinegar. 
 
 1 medium-sized onion ^chopped 
 
 1 ounce whole black peppers. 
 4 ounce whole allspice. 
 4 teaspoouful salt. 
 
 tine). 
 
 Scald the oysters in their liquor, adding a little hot 
 water if they are in danger of burning. At the end of 
 three minutes, strain off the liquor, and spread the oysters 
 on platters to cool. Add the vinegar, onion and season- 
 ing to the oyster liquor, and boil for five minutes, closely 
 covered. When cold, strain and pour over the oysters. 
 Put into jars, cover close, and keep in a cool, dark place. 
 
 These will keep a month, perhaps longer. 
 
 Oysters a la Creme. 
 
 1 pint cream, or milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 1 quart oysters. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 1 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 
 Boil the cream ; rub the flour and butter, and stir in. 
 When well-thickened pour in the oysters with their liquor, 
 and stir till well-mixed ; add pepper and salt, and boil until 
 the oysters ruffle, about three minutes. Have ready a 
 platter, lined with slices of hot toast. Pour the oysters 
 over and serve hot. If milk is used, one egg (beaten) 
 should be added at the last, pouring the hot mixture on 
 the egg, so as not to curdle it. 
 
 Fricasseed Oysters. 
 (A New Orleans Receipt.) 
 
 i cupful butter. 
 1 quart oysters. 
 \ cupful cream. 
 1 teaspoonful flour, or corn- 
 
 1 egg well beaten. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 Chopped parsley (may be omit- 
 ted). 
 
 starch. 
 
 Melt the butter in a pan ; when very hot, add the 
 oysters, well drained. Let all boil up a moment. Then 
 
138 How to Cook Well. 
 
 add the cream, with the flour or cornstarch stirred into 
 it. The moment the oysters ruffle, dip out a little of the hot 
 cream and stir with the egg. Pour it in with the oysters ; 
 stir well, and take from the fire at once, as the egg should 
 not cook but a moment. Add salt and pepper ; also 
 parsley, if you like. Serve on toasted bread, in a platter. 
 For one gallon of oysters, use a cupful of butter, but not 
 so much cream, as that would be too much liquid. 
 
 Oyster Boulette. 
 
 1 quart oysters. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 1 tablespoonf ul flour. 
 
 cupful hot milk. 
 2 eggs, yolks only. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 & cupful broth, or boiling water. 
 
 Blanch the oysters ; melt the butter in a pan, then stir 
 in the flour. Add the broth and milk, and boil for a few 
 minutes. Strain the oysters, and add them to the sauce. 
 Boil three minutes, then add the eggs, well-beaten, and 
 mixed with a little of the hot sauce ; season, and pour the 
 mixture at once over slices of hot toast, on a platter. 
 
 Devilled Oysters. 
 
 Choose large oysters. Let them lie for fifteen minutes 
 in a mixture of lemon juice, and melted butter, seasoned 
 with a dash of cayenne pepper. Then roll them in pow- 
 dered crumbs of bread or cracker; dip in beaten egg, 
 and fry. 
 
 Curried Oysters. 
 
 1 quart oysters. 
 f Butter, size of an egg. 
 -I 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 1 1 teaspoonful curry powder. 
 
 1 lemon, juice only (may be omitted). 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 Drain the liquor from the oysters, and if there is not 
 much add a little hot water. When this boils, stir in the 
 
Dinner. 139 
 
 butter, previously rubbed with the flour and curry pow- 
 der. Mix smooth and add the lemon juice. Boil a mo- 
 ment, then add the oysters. Boil until they ruffle, about 
 three minutes ; sprinkle with salt and serve at once, in a 
 covered dish. Pass rice around with them. 
 
 Oysters & la Royale. 
 
 Bake a few oysters in a pan, in the oven, for a few mo- 
 ments, till they ruffle ; no longer. Have ready slices of 
 hot toast, spread on both sides with butter, into which a 
 little curry powder has been rubbed. Spread the toast on 
 a platter, and lay the oysters on the toast. Sprinkle each 
 one with salt and pepper, and lay on a little butter. 
 
 Smothered Oysters. 
 
 Put one tablespoonful of butter in a covered sauce-pan, 
 with half a saltspoonf ul of white pepper, one teaspoonf ul of 
 salt, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. When hot add 
 one pint oysters, drained from the liquor. Cover closely 
 and shake the pan to keep the oysters from sticking. Cook 
 two or three minutes, or until plump. Serve on toasted 
 crackers. To use the liquor see page 156. 
 
 Panned Oysters. 
 
 Strain the liquor from the oysters. Put them into a hot 
 pan over the fire without water ; as soon as they begin to 
 curl, add butter, pepper, salt. Serve on hot toast, wet 
 with some of the oyster liquor (made hot for the purpose) 
 and buttered. 
 
 "Pigs in Blankets." 
 
 Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Wrap each 
 oyster in a very thin slice of fat bacon, and fasten with a 
 wooden skewer. Cook in a hot omelet pan, just long 
 enough to crisp the bacon. Serve on small pieces of deli- 
 cate toast. 
 
 Very nice for luncheon. 
 
140 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Oyster Pie. 
 
 Make " Puff Paste." Line a pudding dish with a part 
 of it rolled thin. Roll the rest half an inch thick, and cut 
 out exactly the size of the top of the dish. (You can use 
 an inverted pan for this.) Bake it on a tin sheet ; bake 
 also that in the pudding dish. Then make " Stewed 
 Oysters with Milk," adding flour enough to the stew while 
 boiling to make it quite thick. Pour this into the pud- 
 ding-dish, cover with the thick crust, and serve at once, 
 as hot as possible. 
 
 If oysters and crust are baked together the former are 
 apt to be overdone. 
 
 To Open Lobsters. 
 
 The best time of the year for lobster; is when oysters 
 are out of season ; that is, late in spring, and through the 
 summer. Buy a lobster already boiled, and as fresh as 
 possible. The heaviest are best. If the tail springs back 
 after pulling it, the lobster is good. To open a lobster, 
 cut the body the entire length on the under side, with a 
 sharp knife. Throw away the head, which contains a 
 poisonous matter, and carefully extract the poisonous vein 
 which passes from it through the body, carefully examin- 
 ing the green fat to see that there is none of the poisonous 
 vein left in it. Remove also the hairy appendages at the 
 side. The rest of the lobster is all good. If the lobster 
 shell is not to be used, the quickest way to extract the 
 meat is to crack it with a hammer, using the claws as well 
 as the large shell. 
 
 A Simple Way to Serve Lobster. 
 
 Put the meat from the body in the centre of a platter, 
 and that from the large claws at each end of the dish. Ar- 
 range the small claws in the shell, around the edge. Gar- 
 nish with parsley or lettuce leaves, and pass lettuce around 
 
Dinner. 141 
 
 with it. Serve with a " Salad Dressing" poured over it, or 
 passed around with it. Or serve simply with vinegar, salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 Devilled Lobster or Crab. 
 
 After taking the meat out of the shells chop it fine, and 
 mix with it a little salt and red pepper, and plenty of but- 
 ter. Scrub the shells, fill them firmly with the mixture, 
 sprinkle the top with fine bread or cracker crumbs, and 
 bake in a hot oven till nicely browned. Serve hot, in the 
 shells. 
 
 Another way is to add to the meat before seasoning, 
 one third as much of fine crumbs as you have meat. Add 
 one egg, beaten a little ; and chopped parsley if you like. 
 
 Stewed Terrapins. 
 
 Boil the terrapins (in boiling water) till the shell can be 
 easily taken off. Dissect them, removing the sand-bags 
 and head (all the rest is good), taking great care to re- 
 move the gall, which is found in the centre. The liver is 
 most delicate and delicious. Stew the meat in cold water 
 enough to cover it. When done, just before dishing, add 
 a large lump of butter, rubbed in flour, a little salt, and 
 red and black pepper. Flavor well with good wine, and 
 serve in a covered dish. 
 
 This dish requires to be rich in butter, and enough flour 
 should be used to make the sauce quite thick, for the wine 
 thins it. 
 
 SALADS. 
 
 EEMAEKS. 
 
 Keep the lettuce or celery to be used for salads in a 
 cool place, and do not add it till shortly before it is to be 
 served, or it will be wilted. 
 
142 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Never attempt to make salad dressing in a hurry, for it 
 cannot be hurried without spoiling it, but it will be facili- 
 tated if the ingredients, bowl and fork are very cold, and 
 it is mixed in a cool place. 
 
 Use none but the best olive oil. In mixing put in the 
 dry things first, then the oil, and lastly the vinegar. The 
 oil must be added very slowly, a drop at a time, and it 
 will work in more smoothly and be less likely to curdle 
 if a few drops of vinegar are alternated with the oil after 
 the first few drops of oil are mixed in. Beat all very 
 smooth before adding the vinegar. 
 
 N. B. If the oil should curdle from putting it in too fast, 
 stop at once. Beat the yolk of an egg in a clean bowl, 
 and add to it very gradually the curdled Mayonnaise. 
 
 A salad for tea is very appetizing, and this is a good 
 way to use up what is left of roast turkey, veal, and many 
 kinds of vegetables. 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. (No. 1.) . 
 
 1 egg (yolk only). 
 
 2 saltspoonfuls salt. 
 A pinch black pepper. 
 
 teaspoonf ul dry mustard. 
 A dash cayenne pepper. 
 
 h cupful salad oil. 
 
 A few drops lemon juice (or 
 
 vinegar) . 
 li teaspoonsfuls vinegar. 
 
 Beat the egg well with a fork ; add the dry things, and 
 mix well. Then work in the oil, drop by drop, or it will 
 curdle, alternating at first with a few drops of vinegar to 
 give smoothness. When thick as jelly alternate again 
 with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. When the oil 
 is all used stir in the vinegar. 
 
 This will keep a week, if not longer, if put into a bottle 
 with a glass stopper and kept in a cold place. 
 
 Make it when you have yolks left, after making White 
 Cake, etc. 
 
Dinner. 143 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. (No. 2.) 
 (Philadelphia Cooking School.) 
 
 3 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt, 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul mustard, dry. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul sugar. 
 
 Mix like the former. 
 
 A dash of cayenne pepper. 
 
 1 cupful olive oil. 
 
 1 tablespooiif ul vinegar. 
 
 Boiled Salad Dressing. 
 
 (Without Oil.) 
 
 6 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 pint vinegar. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls pepper. 
 
 2 small teaspoonfuls mustard. 
 
 12 tablespoonfuls cream. 
 
 Mix all together in order ; put it in a pitcher, or bowl, 
 set into boiling water on the stove; stir constantly, so that 
 it will not curdle. When as thick as custard, remove at 
 once and pour it into a cold vessel until ready to use. It 
 should be perfectly cold before mixing with the salad. 
 
 Enough for two chickens. 
 
 If there is no celery in the salad add nearly a bottleful 
 of celery salt to the dressing. For a family of five, use 
 one third of everything, as this makes a large quantity. 
 
 Sidney Smith's Salad Dressing. 
 
 1 /iard-boiled egg, yolk only, 
 
 cold. 
 
 .i tablespoonful dry mustard, 
 i saltspoonful red pepper. 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 4 teaspoonf ul sugar. 
 
 1 medium-sized boiled potato, 
 
 hot. 
 
 3 drops vinegar. 
 6 tablespoonfuls good oil. 
 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. 
 
 Rub the egg very smooth with the mustard, pepper, 
 salt and sugar. Then rub in the potato, using the flat of 
 the spoon, till no lumps are left. Stir in three drops vine- 
 gar ; then very slowly the oil ; lastly add the vinegar. 
 
 This makes enough for five persons. If you want a 
 
144 How to Cook Well. 
 
 smaller quantity, put less mustard, oil, and vinegar. It is 
 best to make it an hour before needed. 
 
 This salad dressing is good for any kind of salad, par- 
 ticularly lettuce. Sidney Smith's original rule was writ- 
 ten in rhyme, but I think it more explicit given in this 
 way. 
 
 Salad Dressing to Keep a Week. 
 
 6 tablespoonfuls hot mashed 
 
 potato. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls dry mustard. 
 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 teaspoonful cayenne pepper. 
 4 eggs (beaten light) . 
 3 tablespoonfuls salad oil. 
 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. 
 
 Add the dry things to the potato while hot. Then stir 
 in the eggs. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring well, and 
 mixing in a few drops vinegar after putting in a few drops 
 of the oil (to make it work in more smoothly). Lastly, 
 stir in the vinegar. Then put in a wide-mouthed bottle 
 and cork till wanted. 
 
 Chicken Salad. 
 
 Boil the chickens and let them get cold. They need 
 not be young ones. Remove skin, bones, gristle, and fat, 
 and cut the meat into small pieces (chopping makes it too 
 fine). Cut celery stalks into very short pieces, and mix 
 with the chicken shortly before serving. Have ready a 
 " Salad Dressing," and mix it in thoroughly. Serve be- 
 fore the celery wilts, garnishing the dish with the pretty 
 tops of the celery stalks. 
 
 Allow one large bunch of celery to each chicken, and 
 four chickens to twenty-five people. 
 
 If celery is out of season substitute lettuce. If you can- 
 not procure either, use chopped cabbage, and season the 
 dressing with celery salt. 
 
 The white meat of roast chicken or turkey may be used. 
 
Dinner. 145 
 
 Veal Salad or Mock Chicken Salad. 
 
 This is a good substitute for chicken when that is out of 
 season, and is much cheaper. Chop cold cooked veal, and 
 mix with it nearly an equal quantity of chopped cabbage. 
 Stir into it a good " Salad Dressing," made with celery 
 salt. 
 
 Lettuce may be used instead of cabbage. 
 
 Ham Salad. 
 
 Chop fine cold boiled ham. Pour a " Salad Dressing " 
 over it, and serve in a dish lined and ornamented with 
 lettuce leaves. 
 
 Another Way is to season the chopped ham with pep- 
 per and mustard. Then mix it with the following dress- 
 ing while it is hot. When all is cold, serve with a border 
 of lettuce leaves, sprinkled with vinegar. 
 
 1 pint tomato-juice. I Butter size of a nutmeg. 
 
 1 tablespoouful cornstarch. 
 
 Boil the tomato-juice, and thicken with the cornstarch. 
 Then stir in the butter till dissolved. 
 
 Salmon Salad. 
 
 Boil a piece of salmon. When cold, remove skin and 
 bones, and cut into pieces two inches square. Season each 
 one with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a few drops of 
 oil, and plenty of vinegar. Cover them, and let them 
 stand two hours or rtiore. Line a salad-bowl with lettuce 
 leaves ; put in the salmon, interspersed with lettuce leaves, 
 and pour over all a " Mayonnaise Dressing." 
 
 Sprinkle capers over the top, or garnish with slices of 
 lemon, cut in quarters. Serve before the lettuce wilts. 
 
 Fish Salad. 
 
 Just like "Salmon Salad," or the fish may be flaked. 
 This is a good way to use remnants of fish. If you cook 
 
146 How to Cook Well. 
 
 fish expressly for salad, cut it into cubes before boiling. 
 Place them in a wire basket to boil, as thus they will keep 
 their shape better. Put the basket into cold water with 
 a teaspoonful of vinegar, and salt added, and boil about 
 ten minutes from the time it begins. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Get a hen-lobster, so as to have coral for garnishing. 
 See To Prepare Lobster. Cut the meat very small, mix with 
 it a good " Salad Dressing," and arrange in a salad-bowl, 
 with lettuce leaves lining the dish, the crisp inside ones 
 being mixed with the lobster. Garnish with the coral cut 
 fine, and the small claws, and add the whites of hard- 
 boiled eggs cut into rings. (Use the yolks for "Veal 
 Stew.") Serve as soon as possible. 
 
 If canned lobster is used, drain it thoroughly before*^ 
 using. 
 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 
 This is made of canned shrimps, with dressing arranged 
 prettily with lettuce, like Lobster Salad. 
 
 Potato Salad. 
 
 Slice cold boiled potatoes, and shave two or three raw 
 onions. Mix gently (by tossing with a fork) with any 
 rich " Salad Dressing," and arrange on a platter with capers 
 dotted over the top, or rings of lemon peel. Garnish with 
 parsley if you can get it. 
 
 A few cold boiled beets or carrots mixed with the po- 
 tato vary this pretty salad agreeably Some add a little 
 curry powder to the dressing. 
 
 Summer Salad. 
 
 Cold peas, string beans and beets or young turnips 
 (previously boiled) make a good salad, and form an eco- 
 
Dinner. 147 
 
 noraical dish for tea if you use what is left from dinner. 
 This is a favorite salad with the French. Pour any good 
 " Salad Dressing " over the vegetables, and arrange taste- 
 fully on a platter. It is a great improvement to mix with 
 them a little ham, chopped. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 
 Skin fresh tomatoes without scalding them. Cut in 
 thick slices and pour a rich " Salad Dressing " over them 
 Set on ice a few minutes, and serve. 
 
 Or serve round tomatoes whole (but peeled) and allow 
 each person to help himself to dressing from a glass bowl. 
 This is very pretty. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 Break a head of lettuce from the stem, and wash thor- 
 ony/dy as the leaves are apt to be infested by insects. 
 Then break the larger leaves in two or three pieces (on no 
 account chop them), and mix in a salad-bowl with a nice 
 " Salad Dressing." Do not prepare it till just before din- 
 ner, or it will wilt. Indeed the best way to serve lettuce 
 is to arrange the leaves (whole) like a big bouquet, and 
 serve the dressing separately. This ensures the lettuce 
 being crisp, besides making a pretty looking dish. 
 
 If you want it still prettier, ornament the dish with nas- 
 turiium-blossoms, which may also be eaten. 
 
 STUFFING, GRAVY, SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 Stuffing. 
 (For Turkey, Chicken, Veal, Lamb, or Fish.) 
 
 . Soak in boiling water, and squeeze pieces of stale bread 
 or dried crumbs. Then mix together thoroughly the fol- 
 
148 How to Cook Well. 
 
 lowing, putting in the butter while the bread is still hot : 
 
 f 1 pint soaked bread. 
 I Butter size of an egg. 
 1| tablespoonfuls summer sa- 
 vory. 
 
 tablespoonful sweet marjo- 
 
 ram. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 1 teaspoonf ul pepper. 
 
 1 tablespoonful thyme. 
 
 Taste to make sure that the seasoning is right, as herbs 
 vary in strength. Add a beaten egg if you like. This 
 amount will fill one turkey. 
 
 No 2. Chop fine, bread a day old. Moisten with milk 
 or water, season as above, and add the yolk of one egg, 
 beaten light. (May be omitted.) 
 
 Chopped celery or parsley is an improvement to either 
 of these ; and a little minced salt pork may be substituted 
 for butter. 
 
 Stuffing is best when it crumbles readily. Use a tea- 
 spoon in filling the fowl, so as not to smear the outside. 
 
 Cracker Stuffing. 
 
 (For Poultry. ) 
 
 Make like the above ; but use instead of bread one cup- 
 ful powdered cracker (it swells more than bread). It 
 must be moistened with milk, and an egg is necessary. 
 
 Oyster Stuffing. 
 (For Turkey and Chicken.) 
 
 Make "Stuffing" with chopped bread. Moisten with 
 oyster liquor, and add about one dozen oysters, chopped. 
 " Stewed or Escaloped Oysters " " left over " may be 
 added to ordinary stuffing. 
 
 A delicate flavor of oysters (a soup$on) can be given by 
 wetting the bread with oyster liquor, which is sometimes 
 not needed when cooking oysters. Of course this would 
 not be called Oyster Stuffing, for there are no oysters 
 in it, but it is very nice. 
 
Dinner. 149 
 
 Chestnut Stuffing. 
 (For Turkey and Chickens.} 
 
 Put one pint chestnuts in a pan on the stove. When 
 the skins burst, shell them, and boil in salted water. Add 
 them to ordinary stuffing, reserving a few to put in the 
 gravy. 
 
 Stuffing for Ducks or Geese. 
 
 Make "Stuffing," but substitute sage for the thyme 
 and sweet marjoram, and add one small onion, minced. 
 Two grated apples may also be added, for a change. 
 
 Apple and Potato Stuffing. 
 (For Ducks or Geese.) 
 
 i pound stewed apples. 
 i an onion, minced. 
 A little salt. 
 
 A dash cayenne pepper. 
 A little sage. 
 Mashed potato. 
 
 Do not use sweetened apples, but the pulp of baked 
 apples will do. Mix all together, using enough potato to 
 give it a good consistency. 
 
 Good stuffing can be made like this with bread crumbs 
 instead of potato. 
 
 Browned Flour. 
 (For Gravy.) 
 
 Put one quart flour into a pan in the oven (not very 
 hot), and stir it often till the whole is a delicate brown. 
 Keep it in a wide-mouthed glass bottle and shake it every 
 few days to prevent lumping. Do not bottle it till cold. 
 
 To Make Gravy. 
 
 To make gravy free from grease is one of the most im- 
 portant branches of cookery, as well as the most trouble- 
 some to beginners. 
 
 Keep on hand a little " stock," or water in which meat 
 has been boiled ; even the ragged edges and bones of 
 steak or chops boiled and strained make a foundation for 
 
150 now to CooJc Well 
 
 gravy. Having skimmed off the fat when cold, heat 
 to boiling. Season and " Thicken " with " Browned 
 Flour." Then strain; this is always important. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Meat. 
 
 Half an hour before dinner pour all the drippings out of 
 the pan in which the meat is roasting, and set it within 
 a pan of cold water in a very cold place, for the fat to 
 rise. Pour into the dripping-pan half a cupful of boiling 
 water. When the meat is dished, skim the reserved 
 gravy, and pour it into the pan with the water. Set it on 
 top of the stove, and when it boils season and " Thicken " 
 as above with " Browned Flour." Do not fail to strain 
 it into the gravy-boat. 
 
 Giblet Gravy. 
 
 Boil giblets and neck of one turkey or one pair of fowls 
 for one and one half hours in one pint of cold water. Skim 
 occasionally. Take them out, chop the giblets fine, and re- 
 turn to the water. Set this aside till the turkey is roasted 
 and dished. Add to it the gravy from the dripping-pan, 
 having skimmed off as much fat as possible. Let it begin 
 to boil. Add salt and pepper, and "Thicken" with 
 " Browned Flour," rubbed smooth in cold water. 
 
 Gravy for Broiled Chickens or Partridges. 
 
 Melt a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and dredge in 
 a spoonful of flour. Let it brown in the oven, stirring 
 well. Add a little boiling water, with pepper, salt (and 
 chopped, hard-boiled egg, if you like). When this has 
 boiled, pour it over the chickens already in the dish. 
 
 Drawn Butter. 
 (For boiled Fish, Poultry, or Mutton.} 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 1 tablespoonf ul flour. 
 
 1 cupful water, or milk. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Put two tablespoonfuls of the butter in a saucepan. 
 
Dinner. 151 
 
 When it bubbles, sprinkle in the flour, and let it cook 
 thoroughly, but not discolor. Stir constantly ; the best 
 way is to use an egg-beater. Add the water and season- 
 ing, stirring well. Let it boil up once ; then strain, and 
 add the rest of the butter, cut in small pieces. 
 
 Drawn butter should be made with great care. It is the 
 chief of sauces, and comes constantly into use. If you 
 choose, add a few drops of lemon-juice or vinegar just be- 
 fore serving. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 (Used like Drawn Butter.) 
 
 Make " Drawn Butter." When ready to serve, stir in 
 three or four hard-boiled eggs chopped coarse. 
 
 Caper or Pickle Sauce. 
 
 (Used like Drawn Butter.} 
 
 Make "Drawn Butter." Just before serving, stir in 
 three tablespoonfuls of capers. 
 
 A good sauce can be made by substituting chopped 
 pickles for the capers. 
 
 Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 
 ( For Roast Mutton and Game.) 
 
 & cupful boiling water. 
 A pinch of cinnamon. 
 A pinch of cloves. 
 
 1 tablespoonful brown sugar. 
 4 lemon (grated peel only). 
 4 cupful currant jelly. 
 
 Mix all together except the jelly. Half an hour before 
 serving set it o*n the fire where it will become very hot, 
 but not boil. A few minutes before serving, dissolve the 
 jelly in it. 
 
 Let it all become very hot. 
 
 If you like, substitute wine for the water. 
 
152 
 
 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Tomato Sauce. 
 (For Chops, Beefsteak, Cutlets or Fish.} 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 A little black pepper. 
 
 A speck of cayenne pepper. 
 ( 1 teaspoonful chopped onion. 
 \ 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls flour. 
 
 \ can tomatoes. 
 
 1 cupful water (or stock). 
 
 2 cloves 
 
 1 teaspoonful herbs, mixed. 
 1 sprig parsley, minced (may 
 be omitted). 
 
 Boil together all but the last three ingredients, and 
 strain. Fry the onion in the butter till yellow, and add 
 the flour mixed to a cream with cold water. 
 
 When all is well mixed, pour into the frying-pan grad- 
 ually the strained tomato. Cook all together five minutes, 
 and strain again. Pour it while hot over the chops, cut- 
 lets, or whatever you choose. 
 
 Tomato Sauce (simpler). 
 
 1 teaspoonful butter. 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 Red pepper. 
 
 {1 can tomatoes. 
 1 small onion. 
 2 sprigs parsley. 
 
 Put the tomatoes over the fire, with the onion and pars- 
 ley ; when they have boiled some twenty minutes, strain 
 them through a sieve. Put the butter into a sauce-pan, 
 and when it bubbles sprinkle in the flour, which let cook, 
 stirring well. Then pour in the tomato pulp ; season highly 
 with red pepper ; if lumpy, strain. 
 
 Excellent Tomato Sauce can be made by pulping 
 what may be left of " Fried Tomatoes," and heating it 
 without any additions. 
 
 Tomato Sauce With White Sauce. 
 
 peck tomatoes. 
 2 small carrots, cut fine. 
 
 1 onion, cut fine. 
 
 2 ounces salt pork, cut fine. 
 2 ounces raw ham, cut fine. 
 4 ounces butter. 
 
 Wash the tomatoes, bruise, and put them in a sauce-pan 
 
 2 ounces flour. 
 
 1 quart "White Sauce.' 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 1 bunch of parsley. 
 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 
Dinner. 153 
 
 over a slow fire to dissolve. Put into another sauce-pan, 
 the vegetables, salt pork and ham, with half the butter ; 
 stir over the fire until the butter turns clear. Then add 
 the flour, sprinkling it in gradually. Cook a little longer, 
 and add the tomato (strained), and the White Sauce. 
 Mix well and season. Put in the parsley. Cover and 
 boil slowly forty minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain 
 through a sieve. Boil again a few minutes, adding the 
 rest of the butter. 
 
 Curry Sauce. 
 (For Egg, Chicken, Fish, etc.) 
 
 / 1 tablespoonful chopped onion. 
 
 1 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 
 f 1 teaspoonful Curry Powder. 
 
 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 A pinch salt. 
 
 1 pint milk, hot. 
 
 Fry the onion in the butter (when hot) for five min- 
 utes, and be very careful it does not burn. Mix the curry 
 and flour, and stir it into the butter. Add salt and hot 
 milk gradually and stir vigorously till perfectly smooth. 
 
 Bread Sauce. 
 (For Roast Poultry and Game.) 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1 onion, minced. 
 
 1 cupful bread-crumbs. 
 
 Pepper and salt to taste. 
 
 A pinch of mace. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 
 Simmer the onion in the milk until tender. Have the 
 bread-crumbs in a sauce-pan ; pour over them the milk, 
 cover, and soak half an hour. Then beat very smooth, 
 and add seasoning and butter. Stir well, boil up once, and 
 serve. If too thick, add boiling water and more but- 
 ter. 
 
154 How to Cook Well. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Cream Sauce, or White Sauce. 
 (For Tongue, Fish, etc.} 
 
 tcaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 Butter the size of a large egg. 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 Chopped parsley (may be omit- 
 ted). 
 
 Boil the milk. Put the butter in a sauce-pan, and stir 
 over the fire till it bubbles. Then add to it the flour, 
 rubbed to a cream in a little cold water. Stir all together 
 quickly till smooth. Pour on the milk gradually, stirring 
 constantly, and season. Lastly, add the parsley. If for 
 tongue, stir in one tablespoonf ul capers or chopped pickle ; 
 if for fish, use more flour, and add half a cupful of the 
 water in which the fish was boiled. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce. 
 
 Butter size of a walnut. 
 
 1 table spoonful flour, 
 f 1 cupful strong hot veal " stock." 
 1 1 bunch herbs. 
 
 1 cupful boiling cream. 
 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 Put the butter in a sauce-pan. When it bubbles stir in 
 the flour. Do not let it brown. Then add the other 
 things (the herbs being previously boiled with the stock 
 and strained out). Stir well, simmer a few minutes and 
 
 strain. 
 
 Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 (For Boiled Fish or Asparagus.} 
 
 / Butter size of a nutmeg. 
 1 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 1 cupful boiling water or veal 
 " stock." 
 
 4 eggs (yolks only), 
 i a lemon (juice only). 
 Butter size of a walnut. 
 
 Put the smaller lump of butter into a sauce-pan. When 
 it bubbles, stir in the flour, and cook thoroughly. Then 
 stir in the water or stock. When boiling, remove, and 
 
Dinner. 155 
 
 pour it over the eggs (beaten light). Return to the fire 
 long enough to cook the eggs, but do not let it boil. Take 
 it off, and stir in the lemon-juice. Then add the rest of 
 the butter, cut into small bits. Stir all together well. 
 
 Mint Sauce. 
 (For Roast Lamb.} 
 
 4 tablcspoonfuls chopped mint. I i cupful vinegar. 
 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar, j 
 
 Mix and let it stand in the gravy-boat about two hours 
 before serving. 
 
 Sauce Piquante. 
 (For Meat.) 
 
 2 tablcspoonfuls butter. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls browned 
 
 flour. 
 
 1 pint "stock." 
 i cupful vinegar. 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 1 tablespoouful chopped pars- 
 ley. 
 
 1 tablospoonf ul chopped onions. 
 1 tablespoonf ul capers. 
 
 Melt the butter. Add the flour and stir till smooth, 
 then put in the other things. 
 
 Let it just come to a boil ; then pour it over hot tongue, 
 or any kind of meat. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. (No 1.) 
 (For Boiled Fish or Poultry.) 
 
 Buy a boiled lobster. Pick out all the spawn and red 
 coral. Pound these in a mortar. Moisten them with a 
 spoonful of hot water, and one of melted butter. Pass 
 the mixture through a hair sieve. Add to this all the 
 meat of the lobster, cut into small pieces, and mix in one 
 quarter of a pound more of melted butter. Place the 
 whole in a porcelain sauce-pan, with a very little cream 
 and cayenne pepper. Cover it and let it stew slowly. Tt 
 must not boil. This would deprive it of its fine coral 
 color. 
 
 To be served hot. 
 
156 How to Cook Well. 
 
 No. 2. Put all the small bones and scraps of meat with 
 a pint of cold water to cook. When the lobster flavor is 
 well extracted, strain off the liquor, or stock. Make a 
 sauce as follows : 
 
 \ cupful butter. 
 2 tablespoonf uls flour, 
 i teaspoon ful salt. 
 i saltspoonful pepper. 
 A speck of cayenne. 
 
 Lobster stock, hot. 
 cupful butter, cut fine. 
 2 tablespoonfuls lemon-juice. 
 1 cupful lobster meat, cut in 
 dice. 
 
 Melt the butter in a frying-pan ; add the flour and 
 seasoning. Stir till smooth, then put in the other things 
 and stew slowly. Serve hot. Use the coral to garnish 
 the dish with which the sauce is served. A good way is 
 to break up the coral and put it in a slow oven for half an 
 hour. Then pound it in a mortar, and sprinkle it over 
 the boiled fish. 
 
 Very good Lobster Sauce can be made from the tail 
 and claws alone. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. 
 
 (For Boiled Fish or Poultry.} 
 
 1 dozen oysters. 
 | cupful butter. 
 | cupful flour. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 A pinch cayenne pepper. 
 
 | cupful cream. 
 
 Scald the oysters in their liquor adding a little water if 
 there is not much liquor. Dip them out, and add to the 
 boiling liquor the butter and flour rubbed together, the 
 seasoning'and cream. While it thickens, chop the oysters 
 very fine, and then add them. Boil up a moment, and 
 serve at once, either in a gravy-boat, or poured over boiled 
 fish or chicken. 
 
 This may be made of the juice only of oysters which 
 have been used for something else. 
 
Dinner. 157 
 
 Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 1 quart cranberries. 
 
 1 pint sugar. 
 
 1 1 cupful water. 
 
 Wash and pick over the berries, add the water and stew 
 for twenty minutes if they are the dark kind the bright 
 red take longer to cook. Mash them often against the 
 sides of the sauce-pan with a wooden spoon. Take from 
 the fire, and stir in the sugar till dissolved. (If cooked 
 with them it will spoil the color of the sauce.) Pour into 
 wet moulds, to form, pulping through a colander if the 
 tough-skinned, bright red berries have been used. 
 
 If the sauce is preferred soft, use more water in cooking. 
 
 Prepared Mustard. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls dry mustard. 
 1 tablespoonful of flour. 
 . J cupful water. 
 
 1 teaspoonful sugar (may be 
 
 omitted). 
 | cupful good vinegar. 
 
 Mix the mustard and flour together and stir to a paste 
 with the water. Add the vinegar and boil till thick, stir- 
 ring well. Remove and mix in the sugar. 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 
 
 (For Beefsteak, Boiled Meat, or Fish.) 
 
 Butter, size of an egg. 
 i lemon, juice only. 
 
 A little parsley, chopped line. 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Mix all together ; spread over broiled meat or fish when 
 hot, and put in the oven for a few minutes that the but- 
 ter may penetrate the meat. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 To Select Poultry. 
 
 Old turkeys and fowls have hard, scaly feet and legs. 
 To be sure of getting young ones, choose those that have 
 smooth legs and moist feet. (Yellow-legged chickens are 
 
158 How to Cook Well. 
 
 considered the best.) The skin should be thin and tender, 
 and the breast bone can be bent when pressed by the 
 finger. 
 
 The best ducks have thick, firm breasts. If young, the 
 web of the feet will be transparent, and they will feel t 
 tender under the wing. An old duck or goose is utterly 
 worthless. 
 
 Young geese have a delicate skin. The breast should 
 be plump, the bills and feet yellow. Green Geese (that 
 is, geese about four months old) are best. 
 
 To Prepare Poultry. 
 
 Clean it the moment it comes into your possession after 
 being killed. If the entrails lie long in poultry they im- 
 part an unpleasant, sour taste to the whole inside, and the 
 giblets of fowls bought in market are often unfit for use 
 from this cause. 
 
 To Clean or Draw Fowls. Lay the chicken on its 
 back, and make a long incision from the end of the breast- 
 bone to the tail. Keeping the tail toward the right hand, 
 run the hand into the body, keeping it dose to the flesh 
 on the left side of the chicken. With a firm grasp close 
 the fingers tight around the entrails, and draw them out 
 without loosening the hold, as that might break the gall- 
 bag. If a particle of gall (which can be known by its 
 green color) escapes within the chicken, it will be ruined 
 by the bitter taste which will impregnate the whole. Even 
 a drop of it on the knife used in preparing the chicken will 
 spoil whatever it touches. Lay on one side the heart 
 and liver, cutting off any part that looks green. Then 
 cut open the gizzard ; scrape out the inside, and throw it 
 into hot water for a moment, after which the thick outer 
 skin can easily be removed. 
 
 Next, make an incision along the backbone just below 
 the neck, and draw out the crop, and the large cord at the 
 neck. 
 
Dinner. 159 
 
 Pick out the pin-feathers carefully, and singe off the 
 hairs by holding the fowl by the feet over a blazing paper 
 laid on top of the stove, and turning it on all sides. 
 
 Cut off the legs at the first joint, and cut off the neck, 
 leaving the skin, and lay it with the giblets for gravy. 
 
 To Wash Poultry. Fill the inside with cold water, 
 holding it over a pan. Keeping the hands over the open- 
 ings, shake hard. Rinse it in this way in several waters. 
 
 In next to the last, it is well to dissolve one teaspoon- 
 ful of soda, if there is any sourness. 
 
 To Stuff and Truss Poultry. Make a " stuffing." Fill 
 the inside, using a teaspoon, and sew it up, doubling back- 
 wards the skin at the neck, and sewing it. Cross the ends 
 of the legs, and tie them to the tail. Double the wings, 
 and fasten them close to the body, with a string. Poultry 
 never looks well when dished, unless proper attention is 
 paid to trussing. It is well to stuff and truss the fowl the 
 day before it is to be cooked. The flavor of the stuffing 
 then permeates the whole, and it is, besides, a conven- 
 ience to a busy housekeeper. 
 
 To Keep Poultry, it should be put in a cold place, but 
 not where it will freeze, as that destroys the flavor. Wrap 
 it in a cloth, to keep it moist. Hang it, or place it breast 
 downwards on a shelf. If there is danger of its spoiling, 
 or if the weather is warm, parboil it, after cleaning it. 
 Poultry is tenderer and better for being kept several days 
 after being killed. 
 
 Boast Turkey. 
 
 (See " To Prepare Poultry."") 
 
 Put it in the dripping-pan ; pour one cupful boiling 
 water over the top ; dredge with flour, and put it in the 
 oven, with a slow fire, allowing twenty minutes to the 
 pound (or about three hours for a large turkey). Let it 
 heat through, gradually ; for if the fire is hot at first, the 
 
160 How to Cook Well. 
 
 turkey will be raw inside, and nothing can remedy this 
 afterwards. Have the pan as far as possible from the fire, 
 and after half an hour, draw it nearer. Baste very often, 
 with the drippings in the pan, and occasionally with but- 
 ter (unless the turkey is very fat), and dredge it every 
 time after basting. Turn the pan often. When half 
 done dredge with salt and pepper. Be sure not to take 
 it out until thoroughly tender when pierced by a fork 
 through the thickest part. 
 
 Just before taking it out, baste with melted butter and 
 sprinkle with flour. 
 
 Before serving remove strings and thread. Serve with 
 " Giblet Gravy," and " Cranberry Sauce," or any tart 
 
 If you use " Chestnut Stuffing," add boiled chestnuts to 
 the gravy, and reserve the giblets for "Potatoes with 
 Giblets." 
 
 Boiled Turkey. 
 
 A hen tarkey is best. Stuff it or not, as you choose. 
 The nicest way is to use an " Oyster Stuffing." Truss it 
 carefully. (See " To Prepare Poultry.") Flour a cloth 
 and pin around the turkey, to preserve its whiteness. 
 Plunge into a large pot of boiling water, salted. Cover 
 close, and boil slowly, for two hours, without stopping. 
 Then take off the cloth. 
 
 The prettiest way to serve it is on a bed of boiled rice. 
 Serve " Drawn Butter " with it, or if oysters are used in 
 the stuffing, make a gravy of one pint of the liquor in the 
 pot, and add a few chopped oysters with their liquor. Save 
 the pot liquor for soup, and the giblets for " Potatoes 
 with Giblets." 
 
 If convenient, the turkey may be set on the back of the 
 stove the last half-hour. If covered close, the steam will 
 finish cooking it. 
 
Dinner. 161 
 
 Roast Chickens. 
 
 Just like "Roast Turkey." Roast nearly one hour and a 
 half. This is better than to hurry them in a hot oven, as 
 chickens should be well done inside. 
 
 Boiled Chickens. 
 
 Just like " Boiled Turkey." This is a good way to cook 
 chickens that are not young, as the long, slow boiling will 
 make them tender. Boil one hour at least. If old, a 
 longer time will be necessary. 
 
 Stewed Fowl with Oysters. 
 (A Canadian Receipt.) 
 
 Choose a young fowl. Fill the inside with oysters. 
 Put it in a jar or tin pail without water and cover tight. 
 Put the jar in a large pot of boiling water, and boil 
 steadily for an hour and a half. Then lay the fowl on a 
 hot platter. Make a white sauce of the juice which re- 
 mains from the chicken and oysters, by adding to it while 
 boiling a little cream or milk, in which one tablespoon fill 
 of flour has been rubbed smooth. Season with salt and 
 pepper, and add a few whole oysters. When these 
 " ruffle " pour the sauce over the chicken. 
 
 This is very delicious, the meat being white and tender, 
 and all the flavor preserved. 
 
 Fricasseed Chicken (white). 
 
 Clean, wash and cut a chicken in pieces. Put into boil- 
 ing water, with half a pound of salt pork, cut into strips. 
 Boil sloicly, skimming occasionally, for an hour. Then 
 lay the chicken on a hot platter, lined with slices of 
 toast. 
 
 Strain the liquor, and put one pint of it in a sauce-pan, 
 with a little chopped celery, if you have it. Rub smooth 
 one fourth of a cupful of flour in one cupful of milk, and 
 
162 How to Cook Well. 
 
 pour in when the liquor boils. When smooth, pour it 
 upon one or two eggs (beaten light). * Return to the fire 
 for a moment, but do not curdle the egg. Pour this 
 sauce over the chicken. 
 
 No. 2. Make as above, but omit the salt pork, and add 
 salt to the water. When making the gravy, boil the milk 
 with the liquor ; then make a " roux" and pour the hot 
 liquor on it. Pour the gravy over the chicken. This is 
 more delicate, but perhaps more troublesome, than the 
 other way. Old fowls will do for this. 
 
 Fricasseed Chicken (brown). 
 
 Cut into pieces, a young chicken, and fry it in lard, with 
 a little minced onion. When brown, add one tablespoon- 
 f ul flour ; cook a moment, stirring constantly. Add three 
 cupfuls boiling water, salt and pepper (also allspice and 
 cloves, if you like). Boil slowly till the chicken is very 
 tender. Dish on toast, as above. Thicken the gravy with 
 " Browned Flour," and add one tablespoonful Worcester- 
 shire Sauce or Walnut Catsup. Pour this over the 
 chicken. 
 
 Pried Chicken. 
 
 Jojnt a young chicken. "Egg-and-crumb " the pieces, 
 or dredge with flour. Fry in plenty of hot lard over a 
 moderate fire, or they will not be done through. Turn 
 the pieces when half done, and season. Fry nearly one 
 hour, being careful not to let them burn. Lay on a hot 
 platter and dress with parsley. 
 
 Pried Chicken with Cream Gravy. 
 
 Joint two tender spring chickens. Sprinkle with pepper 
 and salt, and dredge with flour. Have ready in a frying- 
 pan half a pound of salt pork, cut into slices. When it be- 
 gins to brown take it out, and lay the pieces of chicken in 
 the fat which remains. Fry them slowly, and turn them 
 
Dinner. 163 
 
 often. It will be nearly an hour before they are done. 
 When tender, lay the chickens on a hot platter. Pour 
 into the frying-pan one and one half cupfuls of cream. 
 Boil up a minute. Then add one tablespoonful of flour, 
 rubbed into one tablespoonful of butter. Stir while the 
 gravy thickens, and then pour over and around the 
 chicken. 
 
 Fried Chicken with Mush Cakes. 
 
 (An Old Maryland Receipt.} 
 
 For the mush cakes make " Corn Meal Hasty Pudding," 
 rather stiffer than usual. 
 
 Pour it into a flat dish about half an inch thick and 
 set aside to become cold. When ready to fry for dinner 
 cut it in squares or round cakes, and fry in hot lard. 
 
 Serve around the chicken, with Cream Gravy poured 
 over it. See " Fried Chicken with Cream Gravy." 
 
 Smothered Chicken. 
 (An Old Virginia Receipt.) 
 
 Clean and wash small chickens. Split them down the 
 back as for broiling. Lay them flat in a dripping-pan, 
 and pour one cupful of boiling water over them. Set them 
 in a moderate oven, covered tight with an inverted pan ; 
 roast with a steady heat, basting often with butter, and 
 with the water in the pan. The chickens must be left cov- 
 ered each time they are basted. In three quarters of an 
 hour they should begin to brown. Increase the heat, and 
 in a few minutes dish them, first testing their tenderness 
 with a fork. When done, they should be of a mellow, 
 brown hue on top. Sprinkle over them salt and pepper. 
 Thicken the gravy left in the pan, with a little " Browned 
 Flour," and add a little hot water, if necessary. Season 
 with salt, pepper and parsley, and serve in a gravy-boat. 
 
164 How to Cook Wett. 
 
 Curried Chicken. 
 
 Slice an onion, and fry it in butter till brown. Scatter 
 in one tablespoonful of curry powder. Cover, and cook a 
 few minutes. Add more butter, and put in the chicken 
 cut in pieces, and dredged with flour. Fry till tender. 
 Serve in a bed of rice, if you like ; but it is very good with- 
 out. Veal cut in pieces is very good cooked thus, and is 
 cheaper than chicken. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 
 Choose a tender spring chicken for this purpose. Cut 
 it open down the length of the back. Clean it, wash, and 
 wipe dry. Dip each half into melted butter. Lay on a 
 hot, buttered gridiron over a fire not too hot at first. (It 
 is a good plan to begin to broil it before the coal, freshly 
 put on over a very hot fire, has kindled very much.) Put 
 the inside toward the coals first. Lay a pan or tin cover 
 over the chicken, with a weight on it, to keep the pieces 
 flat. Turn them over in ten minutes. 
 
 Broil half an hour. Season with pepper and salt just be- 
 fore dishing, and lay on bits of butter just after. 
 
 Roast Ducks. 
 
 See "To Prepare Poultry." If they are not young, 
 parboil them. Roast like chickens, allowing one hour, if 
 you like them well done ; though if young they will cook 
 in less time. 
 
 Serve with "Giblet Gravy" or "Bread Sauce" and 
 "Apple Sauce," "Cranberry Sauce," Currant or Grape 
 Jelly. 
 
 Stewed Duck. 
 
 This is the only way to render an old duck fit to eat. 
 Cut it up, having cleaned and washed it. Put in a pot 
 with cold water enough to just cover it. Cover, and heat 
 gradually. Then stew slowly for two hours, with a few 
 
Dinner. 1G5 
 
 slices of ham, and the giblets, also a minced onion, and a 
 little minced parsley if you have it, and sage. When ten- 
 der, lay the duck on a platter. Thicken the gravy with 
 a little " Browned Flour," and add, if you like, the juice of 
 half a lemon and one wineglassful of wine. Pour over 
 the duck and serve. Line the platter with slices of toast 
 if you choose. 
 
 Boast Goose. 
 
 Parboil for half an hour to remove the oil. Then stuff, 
 and roast like a chicken, and for the same length of time. 
 Serve like *' Roast Ducks." 
 
 Boast Pigeons. 
 
 The birds must be young and tender for this purpose. 
 Clean them and put a little piece of butter in them, stuff 
 and truss them. Tie thin slices of bacon over the breast. 
 Lay them in rows, in a dripping-pan, with a little hot 
 water. Set in a hot oven and baste often. 
 
 Serve with "Gravy." 
 
 Stewed Pigeons. 
 
 Clean, wash, stuff and tie them in shape. Lay them in 
 a sauce-pan, close together, on their backs. Cover them 
 with boiling water. Lay a few slices of bacon over the 
 tops of the pigeons. Stew gently until tender about one 
 hour. Then season with pepper, salt, butter, and a little 
 summer savory, also minced parsley, if you like. Dish 
 the pigeons, thicken the gravy with a little flour, boil up 
 once, and pour over the birds. 
 
 The bacon may be omitted. Some add a little minced 
 carrot and onion. Line the platter with buttered toast, 
 if jou like, or serve the pigeons on a bed of rice. 
 
 This is the best way to cook pigeons which are not 
 very young. 
 
166 How to Cook Well 
 
 GAME. 
 Wild Turkey (roasted). 
 
 Clean at once, and wash the inside very carefully. 
 Then wipe it inside. Make a " Stuffing " and add to it a 
 little chopped salt pork. Fill the bird and sew up. Pro- 
 ceed as with ordinary turkey, but baste very often, and 
 either cover the top with slices of salt pork, skewered on, 
 or add, by degrees, half a cupful of butter to the gravy, 
 as you baste, for the meat of wild turkey is very dry. 
 Serve with " Gravy " and " Cranberry Sauce," or Currant 
 Jelly. 
 
 Wild Ducks (roasted). 
 
 Clean at once and wash well. Lay an onion in each 
 and parboil them for ten minutes. This will take away 
 the strong, disagreeable flavor. Throw away the onion 
 and stuff the ducks. Roast like chicken, adding a lump 
 of butter to the water in the pan, the first time you baste 
 them. Have the oven hot, and cook them for half an hour. 
 Serve with " Giblet Gravy," and " Cranberry Sauce," or 
 Currant Jelly. 
 
 Another Way is to omit the parboiling, and put them 
 in a pan, with an onion and hot water ; baste often for 
 fifteen minutes. Then take out and proceed to roast in 
 another pan. 
 
 Wild Duck (stewed). 
 
 Parboil as in the last receipt. Throw away the onion, 
 and cut up the duck. Then proceed as with " Stewed 
 Duck." 
 
 Prairie Chickens or Grouse Roasted. 
 
 Prepare and roast like chickens, but rub the inside of 
 each with melted butter, and put butter in the stuffing. 
 Add butter to the water in the pan when you baste them. 
 
Dinner. 1G7 
 
 Just before serving them, dredge with flour, and baste 
 with butter to froth them. 
 
 Roast grouse three quarters of an hour. It is an im- 
 provement to lay a slice of salt pork in the pan, and use 
 the drippings to baste with. 
 
 Prairie Chickens. 
 {Another Way.) 
 
 Prepare like chickens for roasting. Put them in a 
 steamer (or a colander with a tight cover), over hot water, 
 and steam until nearly done. Then put them in a pan, 
 spread them with butter, set in a hot oven and baste often 
 with melted butter, till nicely browned (about fifteen 
 minutes). Then baste again and dredge on Hour to froth 
 them. Serve with parsley, and Currant Jelly. 
 
 Another way is to tie a thin slice of bacon over the 
 breast of each bird. Put them in a dripping-pan, with a 
 cup of boiling water ; cover and set it on top of the stove 
 for ten or fifteen minutes. Uncover, take off the pork, 
 and dredge with flour. Set the pan in the oven, and pro- 
 ceed to roast them. 
 
 Prairie Chickens (broiled). 
 
 Dip in melted butter, when you have split them open 
 down the back. Proceed as with broiled chickens. Serve 
 with Currant Jelly, or " Cranberry Sauce." 
 
 It is a good plan, before broiling a prairie chicken, to cut 
 out the breast, and lay it aside while you joint and par- 
 boil the rest, which is tough. Then rub all with butter, 
 and broil. 
 
 Potted Partridges. 
 
 Stuff and truss partridges as you do fowls, and flour 
 them. Melt a spoonful of butter in a small pot, and then 
 dredge in a spoonful of flour. When it is browned, lay 
 in the partridges. Cover them with a cup of cold water, 
 
168 How to Cook Well 
 
 and put the lid on the pot. When the birds begin to 
 brown shake the pot frequently and gently, turning the 
 birds from side to side till browned all over. When 
 done, they can be easily pierced by a fork. Then place 
 them side by side neatly on a platter, and pour the gravy 
 over them. 
 
 Quail on Toast. 
 
 Clean and cut the quail down the back. Salt, pepper 
 and dredge them with flour. Break the breast and back 
 bones, so that they will lie flat. Then place them in a 
 pan, with a very little water and butter. Cover tight, and 
 set in a very hot oven, till nearly done. Have ready some 
 hot butter in a frying-pan. Fry the quail a few minutes 
 until brown. Line a platter with buttered toast. Put 
 the quail on the toast. Make a sauce to pour over it, as 
 follows : 
 
 Put the dripping pan on top of the stove. When the 
 gravy boils, season it, and thicken with " Browned Flour." 
 
 Broiled Quail. 
 
 Split them down the back, and proceed as with " Broiled 
 Chicken." Serve on slices of buttered toast. Put spoon- 
 fuls of Currant Jelly on the edges of the toast as a gar- 
 nish. It may be served without toast. 
 
 Wild Pigeon (stewed). 
 
 As wild pigeons are often tough, this is the best way to 
 cook them. See " Stewed Pigeons." 
 
 To Cook Small Birds (any kind). 
 
 Roast or broil with a very hot fire. Roll the birds in 
 melted butter before cooking, and baste with butter. See 
 also "Prairie Chickens, Another Way." Serve with 
 "Tomato Sauce" or Currant Jelly. Or lay each one 
 on a slice of toast, and surround it with boiled peas or rice. 
 
Dinner. 1G9 
 
 Partridges, quail, snipe and woodcock require to be in the 
 oven about twenty-five minutes to suit the taste of most 
 persons, though some prefer them underdone ; in this case 
 fifteen minutes will suffice. " Bread Sauce " is nice with 
 them. 
 
 Venison Steak (broiled). 
 
 Heat a gridiron and butter it. Lay the steaks on it, over 
 a clear, hot fire. Turn them often (without piercing them 
 with a fork, so as not to lose the juice) and do not let 
 them dry out. Cook about fifteen minutes. Lay in a hot 
 dish ; sprinkle at once with pepper and salt, and put fine 
 shavings of butter over the top. Pour over all " Currant 
 .Telly Sauce " or a little melted Currant Jelly. Add to the 
 latter one or two tablespoonfuls of wine, if you have it, 
 but this is not necessary. Some omit even the jelly, using 
 slices of lemon instead. 
 
 Another way is, to mix together the jelly, butter and 
 wine, and heat them. Pour them into a hot platter, and 
 lay in the steak when done. Turn it several times, till all 
 is absorbed, then serve on a clean, hot platter. 
 
 Baked Haunch of Venison. 
 
 Wash thoroughly, and wipe dry. Then rub the whole 
 surface with melted butter. Lay it in a dripping-pan, con- 
 taining a little beef "stock," or water in which you have 
 boiled the ragged ends of venison, which you have trimmed 
 off one end to give a better shape to the haunch. Dredge 
 thickly with flour, and cover with a buttered paper. Then 
 put it in the oven, which should be pretty hot, and kept 
 steady. Baste it every fifteen minutes, the whole time it 
 is cooking, lifting the paper to do it. When it has been 
 in one hour, increase the heat, and take off the paper. 
 Flour it thickly, and cover the top with thin slices of salt 
 pork held in place by skewers. One half an hour before 
 serving add a large lump of butter to the gravy ; remove 
 
170 How to Cook Well. 
 
 the pork, baste the meat, and sprinkle the top with pep- 
 per and salt. Dredge with'flour, and after this baste about 
 once in eight minutes. The length of time required for 
 cooking depends upon the size. A good rule is fifteen or 
 twenty minutes to the pound. Serve it with a frill of 
 fringed paper twisted around the knuckle. 
 
 Have ready a " Gravy." Put this into a gravy-boat, 
 and serve Currant Jelly also with the haunch. 
 
 Some persons cover the haunch with a paste of flour 
 and water when first put into the oven. If this is done, 
 remove it half an hour before serving, and baste often w r ith 
 melted butter after this. It should not be taken from 
 the oven till the thickest part can be easily pierced by a 
 skewer. 
 
 Neck or Shoulder of Venison. 
 
 Cook like the Haunch, allowing one quarter of an hour to 
 a pound. 
 
 Saddle of Venison. 
 
 Make deep incisions, following the grain of the meat 
 from the top. Insert in these long and narrow pieces of 
 pork. Lay the meat in a dripping-pan, and proceed as 
 with beef ; but baste oftener, and have the oven hotter. 
 Allow about fifteen minutes to a pound. Serve Currant 
 Jelly with it. 
 
 Boast Rabbit. 
 
 As soon as possible skin, clean and hang it over night. 
 When ready to cook, wash and stuff as you would poul- 
 try. Then sew it up. Lay it in a dripping-pan ; pour a 
 cupful of hot water into the bottom of the pan, and skewer 
 two thin slices of salt pork or bacon, on the top of the rab- 
 bit. Cover it tight with an inverted pan and set in a 
 moderate oven. In half an hour, take off the cover. Re- 
 move the salt pork, add a little butter to the gravy, and 
 
Dinner. 171 
 
 baste it. Then dredge with flour, and let it brown, bast- 
 ing it often. It should be ready to serve in an hour from 
 the time it was put in the oven, though the time will de- 
 pend upon the size. Lay it on a platter, and keep hot 
 while you make the " Gravy." Add to the gravy a little 
 lemon juice, and a teaspoonful of minced onion, fried in a 
 teaspoon ful of butter. 
 
 Fricasseed Rabbit. 
 
 Do not cook the head or neck. See "Fricasseed 
 Chicken." 
 
 Fried Rabbit. 
 
 Only a very tender rabbit is good cooked in this way. 
 Cut into joints, wash and stew slowly for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes in just enough water to cover them. Take out, 
 and dip the pieces of rabbit first into beaten egg, then 
 in crumbs of bread, or cracker. Have ready a frying-pan, 
 containing several pieces of salt pork ; fry them crisp. 
 Remove them and lay in the rabbit. Fry until brown on 
 every side. When nearly done, add pepper and salt. 
 
 It may be fried without parboiling, but should then 
 be cooked a much longer time, and over a more moderate 
 fire. 
 
 Squirrels. 
 
 Cooked like Rabbits. 
 
 See also " Brunswick Stew." 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 EEMARKS. 
 
 Beef is best in winter and early spring, though it is good 
 all the year round. Mutton is best in spring, veal and 
 lamb in summer, and pork in early winter. 
 
 In choosing meat, never buy that in which the fat is 
 very yellow ; it shows that the animal was diseased. The 
 
172 How to Cook Well. 
 
 fat should be white, and the lean of beef and mutton, a 
 clear bright red color. Veal should look white and be 
 fat. That meat is most juicy and tender which has fine 
 streaks of fat intermingled with the lean. It is always 
 cheaper to buy a large piece of meat, and have the butcher 
 cut steaks from that for you, than to buy a roast and steak 
 on two successive days. But of course it is only in winter 
 that meat should be bought by the quantity. An eco- 
 nomical piece of beef is the back part of the rump. It is a 
 long piece, without much fat or bone, and weighs about 
 ten pounds. Have the thickest end cut into steaks, and 
 cut off the thin end with the bone, for soup. Roast what 
 is left. 
 
 In winter, keep meat as long as possible before cooking ; 
 it makes it more tender. Keep it in a cold place, but do 
 not let it freeze, if it can be helped, for it partly destroys 
 the flavor. If frozen, it must be thoroughly thawed before 
 cooking. Do this by soaking it in cold water for two or 
 three hours before using. In summer, keep meat on ice, 
 and do not buy much at a time. Meat which has been 
 cooked and set in the refrigerator will often gather moisture. 
 If so it should be set in the oven for a few minutes, even 
 if it is to be served cold. If you have no refrigerator, set 
 the meat on the cellar floor, covered tight to prevent flies 
 from getting at it. 
 
 N. B. Always have the butcher send home any bones 
 and trimmings belonging to the meat you purchased. 
 These will often weigh as much as one pound, and are ex- 
 cellent to use for stock for soup. 
 
 To Roast Meat. 
 
 Roasting before an open fire is out of date in most fam- 
 ilies. The term is applied now to cooking in an oven. 
 
 In roasting meat the oven should be of a moderate heat 
 at first, so that it will be cooked on the inside ; increase 
 
Dinner. 173 
 
 the heat afterwards. Wash the meat, unless freshly cut, 
 put it in a dripping-pan, and pour one cupful of boiling 
 water over the top. This will cook the surface, and keep 
 the juices in. Dredge the top of the meat with flour, and 
 set in the oven. Do not pepper and salt it till half-done, 
 but baste it often (f. e. wet the top by pouring over it the 
 juice from the pan or a little water and melted butter), 
 while it is cooking. Dredge it again, with flour, after 
 basting it the first time after you have seasoned it. 
 
 Meat that is to be rare should have the oven hot at first. 
 Small pieces also require to be cooked in a hotter oven 
 than large ones, or they will be dried up. 
 
 To Boil Meat. 
 
 All meat should be boiled very slowly, this will make it 
 tender; if boiled fast even a tender piece will become hard 
 and tough. Keep the pot covered, and as the water boils 
 down fill up gradually from the tea-kettle which should be 
 kept boiling in readiness. The meat should boil contin- 
 uously till done. If the piece is a very tough one, about 
 one tablespoonful of vinegar added to the water will 
 make it tender, and will not affect the taste. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 The best pieces for roasting are the tenderloin (an ex- 
 pensive piece), the sirloin, and rib-pieces. The latter are 
 usually chosen for a small family, and are very good, the 
 sixth, seventh and eighth ribs being the best. If you 
 get a rib piece, have the butcher take out the bone, and 
 roll and tie the meat in shape. (Be sure to have the bones 
 and trimmings sent home.) 
 
 If there is much fat on the surface, cover the roast with 
 a paste of flour and water. It should be removed half an 
 hour before the meat is done. (This paste is not neces- 
 sary, but an improvement.) Have the oven rather hot, if 
 
174 How to Cook Well. 
 
 you like beef rare, and allow twelve minutes to the pound. 
 If preferred well-done, have the oven moderate, and cook 
 a longer time. Serve with " Gravy." 
 
 Beefsteak. 
 
 The best pieces are cut from the rump, or through the 
 sirloin. However, different butchers serve different pieces 
 under the same name ; so that the best way to do, is to learn 
 by experience. A good steak for a cheap one is a chuck 
 steak, cut from near the chuck rib. Have the steak cut 
 two thirds of an inch thick, if tender; if doubtful, not so 
 thick. Never wash a steak unless it absolutely needs it ; 
 but wipe off any bits of bone there may be, with a clean 
 cloth. Washing destroys the flavor and makes it tough. 
 
 Broil over clear, hot coals to ensure its being rare. Turn 
 it, in a minute, and turn repeatedly afterwards. In doing 
 this do not stick a fork into it, if possible, as that allows 
 the juice to escape, which should all be kept inside. If a 
 fork must be used, stick it in at the edge, in that part 
 which looks driest. Keep it covered, while broiling, with 
 a tin plate, and watch it all the time. If the fat drips into 
 the fire and blazes up, put out the blaze by sprinkling salt 
 on it. 
 
 Ten minutes will be long enough to cook it. Then lay 
 in a hot platter. Season it, and add a very little butter. 
 Let it stand covered a few moments before serving, and 
 take pains to serve it very hot. 
 
 An excellent addition is " Maitre d'Hotel Sauce," or it 
 may be served with " Tomato Sauce." 
 
 For those who like gravy in the dish, pour over the 
 meat when dished, coffee left from breakfast, or hot water, 
 which will draw out the juice. 
 
 Beefsteak and Onions. 
 
 Broil a steak as above. Have ready three or four 
 chopped onions, fried in butter till delicately browned. 
 
Dinner. 175 
 
 Lay them thickly over the top of the steak when dished. 
 Let it stand covered a few minutes before serving. 
 
 Beefsteak with Baked Tomatoes. 
 
 Broil a tender beefsteak. Take care not to let it burn, 
 and cook it rare. Lay it on a hot platter, as directed. 
 Dot with butter ; pepper and salt it. Have ready some 
 "Baked Tomatoes." With care lift the tomatoes from 
 the pan, and lay them in rather close rows over the sur- 
 face of the steak. 
 
 When served, the steak should be cut in strips between 
 the tomatoes, and each person helped to a square piece of 
 steak with a tomato on it. 
 
 Or, you may lay the tomatoes around the edges of the 
 platter. 
 
 Stuffed Beefsteak. 
 
 2 pounds rump steak. 
 1 cupful " Stuffing." 
 
 1 cupful " Stock " or water. 
 4 cupful catsup. 
 
 1 or 2 slices salt pork. 
 
 Have the steak cut evenly. Make a stuffing as for 
 turkey, adding a little ground cloves. Spread this over 
 the steak, leaving the edges bare. Koll it up tight, and 
 tie firmly in three or four places. Have ready a deep 
 kettle with the salt pork frying in the bottom. When 
 crisp, take it out, and lay in the steak. Turn it often, so 
 that it will brown on every side. Then add the stock or 
 water. Cover, and stew slowly an hour and a half, adding 
 just enough water to keep it from burning if it becomes 
 dry. When tender lay the meat in a platter ; add catsup 
 to the gravy, and thicken it with a little flour if necessary. 
 Pour over the meat, having removed the strings carefully. 
 
 For a family of five. 
 
 Mock Duck. 
 
 Buy a steak from the round, weighing not more than 
 two pounds (or it will be too large to imitate a duck), and 
 
176 How to Cook Well 
 
 free from fat or bone. Rub both sides with salt and pep- 
 per. Prepare one cup or more of "Stuffing" made as for 
 a roast duck. Add to it a little minced salt pork if you 
 have it ; it is better than butter. Spread the stuffing over 
 the meat not quite to the edges. Roll it up very tight, 
 and tie firmly in four places. Tie a buttered paper around 
 it. Bake (without water) in a moderately hot oven for 
 fully one hour. When more than half done, pour a little 
 boiling water over the top. When done remove paper 
 and strings. Serve hot, with " Bread Sauce," in a gravy- 
 boat. " Cranberry Sauce " should also accompany it. 
 Carve across the stuffing. For a family of four. 
 
 Beef a la Mode. 
 
 Buy six or eight pounds from the thickest part of the 
 round. Have the bone removed (save it for stock) and 
 trim off the coarse outside fat. Make deep incisions in 
 every part, not more than half an inch apart. Into half 
 of them push salt pork cut into little narrow strips about 
 two inches long. Fill the rest of the incisions, and the 
 place where the bone was, with the following stuffing: 
 
 1 pint bread-crumbs. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 A pinch of red pepper. 
 
 1 saltspoonf ul ground cloves. 
 
 1 saltspoonf ul allspice. 
 
 1 small nutmeg (grated). 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls chopped salt 
 
 pork. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul melted butter. 
 1 egg, beaten. 
 
 Stick whole cloves into the meat here and there. Then 
 tie it securely into a good round shape. Put scraps of 
 salt pork in a deep pot. When fried crisp, take them out 
 and lay in the meat. When brown in one spot turn it, 
 so that every part in turn will be browned. Allow about 
 half an hour for this. Then dredge in about two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour and brown it.- Slip a plate under the 
 meat to prevent its burning, and pour in enough boiling 
 water to barely cover the meat. Cover tight to keep in 
 
Dinner. 177 
 
 the steam (it is well to tie an old towel over the top of 
 the pot), and simmer for about five hours. Watch it 
 carefully, and fill up with boiling water if necessary, add- 
 ing only a little at a time. 
 
 Serve with the gravy poured over it. It is excellent 
 cold for luncheon or tea. What is left over should be 
 used thus. Some add carrots, turnips and onions (sliced) 
 when the pot is filled up with water ; a few are then laid 
 around the meat, and the rest strained out of the gravy. 
 They give an agreeable flavor. 
 
 Corned Beef. 
 
 If it has been long corned, soak the beef for one hour 
 in cold water. Then put it into a large pot of cold water, 
 and boil very slowly, covered, allowing half an hour or 
 more to a pound. Skim often. 
 
 Many persons like cabbage cut into quarters, or carrots 
 sliced, boiled in the pot with the beef, and served with it, 
 the meat being placed in the centre of the vegetables. 
 The cabbage should be put in to cook one hour, and the 
 carrots three quarters of an hour, before the meat is ready 
 for serving. Press and chop the cabbage before serving. 
 See also Pressed Corned Beef; 
 
 Boiled Tongue. 
 
 Wash, and soak over night, if it is smoked, or has been 
 long corned. Bend the tip of the tongue towards the 
 roots and tie firmly, to give it a good shape. Put it into 
 a large pot of cold water. Let it come gradually to a boil ; 
 skim well. Boil slowly, keeping the pot covered. Do not 
 let the water boil down. In three hours prick with a fork ; 
 if it feels tender, it is done. But a very large tongue re- 
 quires five hours. When done, set the pot off, but do not 
 take the tongue out of the water until it is cool. This 
 will make it more tender. When cold remove skin and 
 
178 How to Cook 'Well. 
 
 roots ; or take them off while hot, if the tongue is to be 
 served hot. In this case, serve with it " White Sauce," 
 or the following 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 1 pint tongue broth. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls flour. 
 1 small onion, minced. 
 1 small carrot, minced. 
 
 A little parsley, minced (may be omitted). 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 1 quart tomatoes, stewed, or canned. 
 
 Bring the broth to a boil. Then thicken with the flour ; 
 add the other ingredients, having strained the tomatoes. 
 Boil fifteen minutes. Strain or not, as you prefer. 
 
 Roast Veal. 
 
 The best pieces to roast are the loin and fillet. The 
 breast also is roasted. That and the fillet should be pre- 
 pared like " Beef a la Mode," with incisions filled with 
 stuffing, made with chopped pork. Veal should be well 
 done, and requires a slow oven and a long time to cook. 
 Heat gradually and allow twenty minutes to a pound. It 
 is a great improvement to lay slices of pork over any 
 kind of veal while cooking. 
 
 Serve roast veal with "Gravy." Spinach is the proper 
 accompaniment to veal. 
 
 Stewed Breast of Veal. 
 
 Cut the meat into pieces of a size to help one to each 
 person. In a deep pot fry several slices of salt pork. 
 When crisp, remove them, and lay in the meat. Fry 
 about half an hour, till all sides are brown. Then add the 
 rind of a lemon, cut thin, a little sweet marjoram, and 
 boiling water enough to barely cover the meat. Cover 
 tight, and stew gently two hours. Dish the meat, and 
 pour over it about one pint of the gravy, thickened with 
 "Browned Flour." 
 
Dinner. 179 
 
 Veal Cutlets or Chops (fried). 
 
 Fry slices of salt pork till crisp. Take out, and lay into 
 the hot fat the cutlets egged-and-crumbed. Fry slowly 
 (about half an hour) and take care that they do not burn. 
 (Have plenty of fat.) When delicately browned, add 
 salt and pepper, and dish. Do not spoil them by the 
 addition of gravy. They should be crisp. Never wash 
 meat for frying ; it makes it tough. All it needs is to be 
 wiped off with a cloth. 
 
 Veal Cutlets or Chops (broiled). 
 
 Trim the rib cutlets neatly, scraping the bone smooth. 
 Broil slowly, as veal should be well done. Have slices of 
 salt pork laid over the veal while cooking, or baste often 
 with melted butter. Season as you serve them. Serve 
 with " Tomato Sauce," if you like. 
 
 To Prepare Sweet-breads. 
 
 Veal sweet-breads are best. They will not keep long. 
 Soak them at once in cold water, for about one hour; 
 then parboil them (about fifteen minutes) in salted, boil- 
 ing water, after which put them into cold water again for 
 a few minutes. This will make them firm and white. 
 Remove the skin and little pipes, and put them in a very 
 cool place until ready to cook them again. 
 
 Sweet-breads (broiled). 
 
 Prepare as above. 
 
 When cold and dry, cut them in two. Rub them in 
 melted butter, and lay on a hot buttered gridiron over 
 clear hot coals. Wet them frequently with melted but- 
 ter, and turn them often to prevent their getting hard and 
 dry. When nicely browned, season them, and serve hot. 
 
 Sweet-breads (fried). 
 
 When ready to cook, wipe dry and cut them in two. 
 Lay a few slices of salt pork in a frying-pan. When crisp 
 
180 How to Cook Well. 
 
 lay in the sweet-breads, previously egged-and-crumbed. 
 Do not have the pan over too hot a fire, or they will not 
 be cooked through. Turn them often till tender and 
 brown. 
 
 Calf's Liver (broiled). 
 
 Cut the liver into slices half an inch thick, and soak half 
 an hour in cold salt water ; broil over hot coals turning it 
 often. When done, add salt and pepper. Lay it on a hot 
 platter, with several bits of butter on top. 
 
 Calf's Liver (fried). 
 
 Cut the liver into thick slices, and soak half an hour in 
 cold salt water. Wipe it dry. Have ready in a frying-pan 
 two or three large slices of salt pork fried crisp. Lay the 
 liver in the pan, keeping it over the hottest part of the 
 fire ; and when brown on one side, turn it on the other. 
 Cut into cubes while browning on the under side, and stir 
 till every side is brown. When done add a very little 
 salt and pepper. Put the liver on a hot platter, and add 
 to the gravy in the frying-pan a cupful of boiling water, 
 and the juice of a lemon (this may be omitted). - Dredge 
 flour into the boiling gravy, and stir while it thickens. 
 Pour it over the liver, and serve. 
 
 Boast Mutton or Lamb. 
 
 The parts to roast are the saddle and shoulder ; and 
 the leg, if not very large. Allow twelve or fifteen min- 
 utes to the pound, and as mutton is preferred well done 
 by most persons, do not have the oven very hot at first. 
 Serve with " Gravy," and Currant Jelly. 
 
 Serve lamb with "Mint Sauce." Greens are suitable 
 with it. 
 
 Boiled Mutton. 
 
 The leg is the part to boil. Have the butcher cut off 
 the shank bone, so that it will fit well into the pot. Put 
 
Dinner. 181 
 
 into salted, boiling water, taking care to have water 
 enough to cover the meat well, and keep it covered all 
 the time, adding boiling water as that in the pot boils 
 down. Allow fifteen minutes to a pound. Boil slowly, 
 without ceasing, till tender when pierced by a fork in the 
 thickest part. Skim the liquor frequently, and save it 
 for broth. Serve with the mutton "Caper Sauce," or 
 " Drawn Butter." 
 
 Mutton Cutlets. 
 
 Trim them well and broil or fry like " Veal Cutlets." 
 Serve with or without " Tomato Sauce." 
 
 Mutton or Lamb Chops. 
 
 These may be broiled or fried. If fried, be sure and 
 not wash them, or they will be tough. Trim neatly and 
 scrape the bone. Dredge the chops with flour, and fry 
 them slowly with a few slices of salt pork. Move them 
 about often in the pan to prevent their sticking. In 
 about five minutes turn them and season with pepper and 
 a very little salt. When the thickest part can be easily 
 pierced with a fork they are done. Lay them on a hot 
 platter. Pour half a cupful of boiling water into the fry- 
 ing-pan, and dredge in flour slowly, till thick enough for 
 gravy, and pour over ; or serve with " Tomato Sauce." 
 " Egg-and-crumb " them, if you like, before frying, and in- 
 stead of serving with gravy, stack them around a high 
 mound of mashed potato. 
 
 Roast Pork. 
 
 The pieces to roast are the shoulder, spare-rib, leg, loin 
 and chine. Pork requires a moderate oven and very 
 thorough cooking. Allow full twenty minutes to a pound, 
 and let it heat through gradually. Then watch it care- 
 fully, as pork burns easily, which ruins it. The spare-rib, 
 or the chine (which is more wholesome and has less fat 
 
182 How to Cook Well. 
 
 than the spare-rib), should be prepared for roasting by 
 removing most of the fat. Save this to be tried out for 
 lard. The shoulder and the leg should be prepared thus : 
 with a sharp knife score the skin deeply in parallel lines 
 about one inch apart, and make deep incisions in the thick 
 part of the meat. Fill the lines and the incisions with 
 "Stuffing for Duck," moistened with a little vinegar. 
 Sprinkle the entire top with a little powdered sage. A 
 buttered paper should be laid over the top of any piece 
 for roasting. Put it in a dripping-pan, with a very little 
 water in the bottom. Baste often and flour it, removing 
 the paper while you do this. Leave the paper off the 
 last half-hour. Serve with "Apple Sauce" and pickles. 
 
 Pork Steaks, or Chops. 
 
 Cut slices from the loin or neck and trim neatly. Lay 
 them in a frying-pan. Turn them often while frying. 
 In fifteen minutes pour off the fat, if there is much of it. 
 Dip the steaks in bread-crumbs, mixed with a little sage. 
 Put back and fry fifteen minutes longer. 
 
 Serve without gravy. 
 
 Boiled Ham. 
 
 Soak in cold water over night, changing the water 
 once or twice. Then wash, rubbing very hard. Put into 
 a large pot of cold water. Cover and simmer slowly, 
 taking care to keep the meat covered with water. Allow 
 for cooking about twenty minutes to the pound. A ham 
 should be very thoroughly done, yet should not be boiled 
 so long as to separate the meat from the bone\ Skim 
 carefully while boiling. When a fork will pierce easily 
 through the thickest part, it is done. Let it remain in 
 the pot until cool. Then skin it. Cover with spots of 
 pepper at uniform distances, and twist a fringed paper 
 around the bone. 
 
Dinner. 183 
 
 Glazed Ham. 
 
 Boil a ham as above and remove the skin. Wash the 
 surface with a beaten egg. Moisten one cup powdered 
 crackers thoroughly with milk. Add one teaspoonful of 
 melted butter, and work the whole to a paste. Spread 
 this evenly and thickly over the ham. Brown delicately 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 Best Way to Cook a Ham. 
 
 Boil as above, but take it out when half-done, or at the 
 end of three hours, and remove the skin. Cover the fat 
 side with powdered cracker, which will adhere better if 
 the surface is first rubbed with egg. Then put it in a 
 dripping-pan in a moderate oven for the rest of the time. 
 The baking roasts out a great deal of the fat, and leaves 
 the meat much more delicate. Do not bake it so long as 
 to make it dry, or cause it to separate from the bone. 
 
 Save the fat in the pan for frying potatoes. The ham 
 bone should be saved to boil with soup. Chop the meat 
 left on the bone for sandwiches. 
 
 Other Ways of Cooking Meats. 
 (See Index.) 
 
 STEWS. 
 Veal Stew. 
 
 2 pounds veal steak. 
 
 1 small potato sliced. 
 
 2 hard-boiled eggs (may be 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls of flour. 
 
 omitted). 
 
 Cut the veal into lumps. Put it into a skillet with but 
 just enough cold water to cover the meat. Put in the 
 potato. Cover the skillet and stew gently nearly half an 
 hour, taking care that the water does not boil away. 
 When the meat is tender take it out, and add the milk to 
 
184 How to Cook Well. 
 
 the broth. Rub the flour smooth in a little cold. milk. 
 Pour into the broth when the latter is boiling again. 
 Season with butter, salt and pepper. Slice the eggs nnd 
 put into the broth, let all boil up once, then pour over the 
 meat and serve hot. 
 
 Veal Stew with Dumplings. 
 
 2 pounds veal. 
 
 {1 quart flour. 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking powder, 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 Cut the veal in pieces, put it on to stew in cold water, 
 enough to more than cover it. Do not let it boil fast. 
 When actually boiling, drop in with a spoon a spoonful 
 at a time, a mixture made as follows : stir into the flour the 
 baking powder and salt, with enough cold water to make 
 a stiff dough. The water should be put into the batter 
 gradually, stirring all the lumps out as you proceed. 
 Boil twenty-five minutes after the dumplings are put in, 
 without stopping, and without removing the lid from the 
 kettle. Eat at once, as the dumplings become heavy by 
 standing long. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal Stew. 
 
 2 small knuckles veal. 
 4 quarts water. 
 
 4 or 5 eggs, boiled hard, yolks 
 only (may be omitted) . 
 
 J cupful butter, or less. 
 " Browned Flour." 
 Cloves and mace. 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Boil the veal very gently in the water. When it be- 
 gins to boil, skim it well. When thoroughly cooked, take 
 from the plot, and cut it from the bones in small pieces. 
 Rub the yolks smooth with the butter and several spoon- 
 fuls of " Browned Flour," and add it to the water in which 
 the veal was boiled. When cooked enough, put in the 
 meat with the seasoning. Boil up once and serve. 
 
Dinner. 185 
 
 Pilau. 
 
 (A Turkish Dish.") 
 
 pounds lamb, veal, or 
 chicken. 
 
 li cupf uls raw rice (washed). 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 v2 quarts cold water. 
 
 Buy pieces from the neck, shank, rib, or any odd cheap 
 pieces. Each piece should be cut of a size to help to one 
 person without cutting at the table. Put the meat on to 
 boil without removing either bones or fat. Boil slowly, 
 covered. Do not fill up the pot as the water boils down. 
 
 When it has boiled for one and a half hours, add pepper 
 and salt, and put in the rice soaked for half an hour. Let 
 all boil together till the rice has absorbed all the broth, 
 probably for half an hour. Boil more and more slowly 
 toward the last, and stir often to prevent its burning. 
 Add a little hot water, if the broth is absorbed, before the 
 rice is done. When ready to serve, remove any ill-look- 
 ing bones, and lay the pieces of meat on a hot platter, with 
 the rice laid over and around them. 
 
 A cheap and delicious dish, for breakfast, luncheon, or 
 a plain dinner. 
 
 Calcutta Curry. 
 
 2 chickens (boiled and jointed). 
 
 3 or 4 slices salt pork. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 3 onions (sliced fine). 
 
 A dredging of flour. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Boiling water (about 1 quart). 
 
 Slices of lemon. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul curry powder. 
 
 Have the chicken cold and dry. Fry the salt pork in 
 a deep flat-bottomed kettle, adding the butter when it be- 
 gins to brown. Then put in the- onions, and fry a light 
 brown. Remove them and the pork, and put in the 
 pieces of chicken. Let them fry gently in the fat. While 
 frying, dredge the chicken with the curry powder and a 
 little flour and salt. Turn it, so as to brown all sides. 
 Add boiling water, only enough to make a little gravy. 
 
186 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Stew slowly for fifteen minutes. Dish the chicken, and 
 pour the gravy over, without further thickening. Garnish 
 with slices of lemon, and serve " Boiled Rice " with it. 
 Veal or lamb may be used for Curry. 
 
 Curried Pilau. 
 
 Make " Pilau," and shortly before serving, sprinkle into 
 the rice half a teaspoonful curry powder, or more, if you 
 like it. This will be enough for most American palates. 
 Stir well and dish. 
 
 A more economical way (which yet furnishes a good 
 dish) is to use meat and rice already cooked. Joint or 
 cut it into large pieces, and boil with it whatever bones 
 you may have. They can be removed at the last, and 
 they furnish a good deal of richness to the broth. 
 
 Mutton Stew. 
 
 Buy rib, neck, or any inferior pieces. Have the bones 
 cracked, and take off most of the fat. Cut the meat into 
 pieces of a good size for helping. Throw into a pot and 
 cover with cold water. Heat gradually and simmer for 
 over an hour, seasoning it when half done. Then dish the 
 meat and thicken the gravy with one or two tablespoon- 
 f uls of flour. Add a little chopped pickle, or " Tomato 
 Catsup," or " Stewed Tomato," and pour over the meat. 
 The addition of sweet marjoram or cloves is liked by 
 many. The tomato is particularly nice with mutton. 
 
 Beef Stew. 
 
 Get the middle cut of the shin, or meat from the top of 
 the round, or back of the rump ; but any part that has 
 bone and fat as well as lean is good for stew. As this 
 mode of cooking meat renders it more tender, the tough, 
 cheap parts are just as good as any, and the bone gives 
 richness. Even the thin end of a sirloin or rib roast may 
 be used. 
 
Dinner. 187 
 
 Cut your meat into small pieces, and if it has not been 
 previously cooked, dredge it with salt, pepper and flour, 
 and brown it in salt pork or drippings. Put it into the 
 stew-pan with what bones you may have. Cut two 
 onions, one small white turnip, and half a small carrot, 
 into half-inch dice. Cook them slightly in the drippings, 
 and add to the stew. Add boiling water enough to cover, 
 and simmer two or three hours. Remove the bones and 
 skim off the fat. Have ready pared six or eight small 
 potatoes, soaking in cold water. When the meat is nearly 
 done, slice and add them to the stew. Then salt and 
 pepper to taste. "Dumplings" may be added to the 
 stew when the potatoes are nearly done. Cover closely 
 to keep in the steam, and cook ten minutes without lift- 
 ing the cover. Put the meat and potatoes in the centre of 
 a hot platter, and the dumplings around. If the broth is 
 not thick enough, thicken with a little flour. Add, if you 
 like, a cupful of strained tomato, and one teaspoonful 
 chopped parsley. Pour it over the meat and serve. 
 
 Irish Stew. 
 
 2 pounds beef, from the round. 
 
 3 quarts cold water. 
 
 1 large turnip, sliced. 
 
 2 carrots, sliced. 
 6 potatoes, sliced. 
 
 4 onions, sliced. 
 
 1 heaping tablespoonful salt. 
 
 A little pepper. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 Buy from the cheap end of the round. Three hours 
 before dinner, cut the meat into pieces about two inches 
 square. Put it in a pot with the water, add the turnip 
 and carrots. Let all boil very slowly together, keeping 
 the pot closely covered. One hour before dinner add the 
 potatoes and onions, with the salt and pepper, and boil 
 slowly again. Just before dishing stir in quickly the 
 flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. 
 
 Serve hot on a platter. 
 
188 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 This makes a very large quantity, enough for fifteen 
 persona. 
 
 Irish stew makes a hearty and excellent dinner, as well 
 as an economical one. 
 
 Brunswick Stew. 
 
 1 gallon water, boiling. 
 
 1 tablespoonful salt. 
 
 pound bacon. 
 
 1 onion (sliced). 
 
 li quarts tomatoes (peeled). 
 
 1 pint lima beans. 
 
 4 Irish potatoes (sliced). 
 
 6 ears sweet corn (cut from the 
 
 cob). 
 1 teaspoonful black pepper. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cayenne pepper. 
 
 2 or 3 squirrels or chickens. 
 
 Four hours before dinner joint the squirrels and put 
 them to soak in cold salted water, to draw out the blood. 
 Put on the water, salt, bacon and onion. Let these boil 
 fifteen minutes, while you prepare the vegetables. Then 
 add them with the pepper. As soon as these begin to 
 boil, put in the squirrels or chickens, and let all stew to- 
 gether slowly (stirring often) till the meat will drop from 
 the bones. Then serve in a soup tureen, to be eaten 
 from soup-plates. 
 
 Some add a little butter rolled in flour, just before dish- 
 ing ; others thicken it with bread-crumbs. 
 
 MEAT PIES, 
 Meat Pie. 
 
 Any kind of meat will do, either that which has been 
 already cooked, or raw meat, the cheaper cuts of veal or 
 beef being preferred. Cut them into slices of convenient 
 size for helping, and if raw parboil them. Put them into 
 a deep pudding dish, with water enough to nearly half 
 cover them, and gravy, if you have it. Dredge in a little 
 flour and lay on a few bits of butter. Add sliced potato 
 if you like, or hard-boiled eggs sliced. 
 
 Make either a "Crust for Meat Pies" or a "Potato 
 
Dinner. 189 
 
 Crust." Roll it out about one inch thick and lay it on 
 top of the pie. Make a deep slit in the middle to allow 
 the steam to escape. Bake in a rather hot oven for about 
 three quarters of an hour. 
 
 A few raw tomatoes are an improvement. 
 
 Beefsteak Pie. 
 
 This is a good way to use a tougli steak. Cut the meat 
 in large squares, crack the bone, and parboil in cold water 
 for about twenty minutes. (If allowed to boil fast the 
 meat will be more tough, rather than less so.) Proceed 
 as with " Meat Pie," using the water in which the beef 
 was boiled. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 Boil two chickens in hot water (barely enough to cover 
 them) forty minutes. Skim occasionally, take them out 
 of the water and joint them as for " Fricasseed Chicken." 
 Put them in a deep pudding dish. Sprinkle thickly with 
 flour, salt and pepper and lay on bits of butter rolled in 
 flour. Pour in enough of the water in which the chickens 
 were boiled, to cover them. Lay on a " Crust for Meat 
 Pies," rolled an inch thick. Cut a deep slit in the middle. 
 Bake in a moderate oven one hour. 
 
 Babbit Pie. 
 
 Cut a pair of rabbits into pieces of a convenient size. 
 Parboil in cold water enough to cover them. Skim well. 
 Then proceed as with " Chicken Pie," adding bits of salt 
 pork. 
 
 Quail or Pigeon Pie. 
 
 Make like " Chicken Pie," but boil them, only ten min- 
 utes. Cut each pigeon into four pieces, but use quails 
 "whole. Bake three quarters of an hour in a rather hot 
 oven. 
 
 If you like, lay a tender beefsteak in the bottom of the 
 dish. 
 
190 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Mock Squab Pie. 
 
 Slice a few apples, and lay them in layers with mutton 
 chops in a deep dish. Shred onion and sprinkle a little 
 sugar over each layer of chops. Add half a cupful of 
 water or gravy. Lay a " Crust for Meat Pies " over the 
 top, cut a slit in the middle, and bake in a moderate oven 
 for one hour. 
 
 Chicken or Veal Pot Pie. 
 
 Cut up and garboil a large chicken, or two pounds of veal. 
 Butter very thoroughly a pot and line sides and bottom 
 with paste (see "Crust for Meat Pies"), cutting out 
 pieces on the sides of the pot in such a way as to prevent 
 thick folds. Put in a layer of chicken ; flour, salt and 
 pepper it, and add a little butter. Do this until you have 
 used all the chicken, or the pot is full. Pour in enough 
 liquor in which the chicken was boiled to half fill the pot. 
 
 Cover with a thick layer of pastry, making a slit in the 
 middle for the escape of the steam. Heat slowly and boil 
 one and a half hours, watching that it does not burn. If 
 more liquor is necessary pour it in through the slit. When 
 done, invert the pot into a large dish, so that the lower 
 crust will be on top. 
 
 It may be made without the lower crust, which some 
 persons consider unwholesome. 
 
 Bits of salt pork may be used instead of butter ; they 
 will give an excellent flavor. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Choose potatoes of a uniform size and wash them. 
 Peel them as thin as possible, both because it is wasteful 
 to do otherwise, and because the richest part of the 
 potato lies next the skin. Then leave to soak in cold 
 water, for an hour, or longer if the potatoes are very old. 
 
Dinner. 191 
 
 Boil them in salted cold or hot water, according to the 
 kind of potato. If you find that boiling in cold water 
 prevents their being mealy, try hot. It is impossible to 
 give an unvarying rule for potatoes in this respect. If 
 you use cold water, put them on to cook three quarters of 
 an hour before dinner ; if hot, half an hour will do. (Of 
 course very small potatoes do not take so long.) Boil 
 till tender when pierced by a fork. Drain off all the 
 water at once, as they will become soggy if left soaking 
 when done. Then take the pot to an open window, and 
 with the lid on, shake them up and down once or twice ; 
 after which, remove the lid, expose the potatoes to the 
 cold air for a moment, and set the pot on the back part of 
 the stove, uncovered, for five minutes, to dry out thor- 
 oughly, while you are dishing the rest of the dinner. 
 
 Serve uncovered, unless by a napkin, which will not pre- 
 vent the escape of steam. 
 
 Old Potatoes, such as one sometimes has in the months 
 of April or May, can be rendered less watery by a very 
 simple process. When about to dish them, take one at a 
 time in a coarse towel, and squeeze it as hard as possible. 
 Then lay it carefully in the dish. 
 
 New Potatoes should always be boiled in hot water, 
 and with the skins on. These may be removed at the 
 moment of dishing; sprinkle on salt as you lay them in 
 the dish. Same persons scrape the skins off before boil- 
 ing, but on no account should they be peeled. 
 
 Flaked Potato. 
 
 Prepare like " Boiled Potatoes." Just before dishing, 
 break into small pieces with a fork. Heap lightly in a 
 dish, and sprinkle with salt. 
 
 Mashed Potato. 
 
 Boil potatoes till well cooked. Drain and dry them. 
 With a potato-masher mash and beat until light, in the 
 
192 How to Cook Well. 
 
 same pot they were boiled in, keeping it at one side of 
 the stove, so that the potato will not burn, yet will keep 
 hot. The longer you beat them the whiter and creamier 
 the potato will be, so it is well to allow ten minutes for 
 this when you put the potatoes on to boil. Scatter in 
 salt, and add a little milk (previously heated so as not to 
 cool the potato), with a piece of butter melted in it. 
 Work all together well. Then dish, and smooth the top 
 nicely with a warm knife. 
 
 Mashed Potato is the basis of so many dishes and is so 
 popular that it should be prepared with especial care. 
 
 Browned Potatoes. 
 (To serve with Roast Beef.) 
 
 Wash and peel large potatoes. Dredge with flour. 
 Have a piece of beef roasting. One hour before dinner 
 skim the fat from the gravy, and lay in the potatoes 
 around the meat. Baste frequently with the juice of the 
 meat after they brown. When half-done turn them; 
 dredge, and when brown, baste again. Sprinkle with salt 
 before serving, laid around the platter in which the beef 
 is served. 
 
 Potatoes in Other Ways. 
 
 (See Index.) 
 Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 See Sweet Potatoes Baked. 
 
 If any one chooses to boil sweet potatoes, she must 
 experiment for herself, as I never yet tasted a boiled sweet 
 potato that was a success. They should always be baked 
 to keep their flavor. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Old Turnips. Wash, peel, and lay in cold water for 
 an hour. Then put into cold salted water over the fire 
 
Dinner. 193 
 
 two and a half hours before dinner. When tender, drain 
 well, and mash with a potato-masher, adding a little but- 
 ter. Smooth the top when dished, and put dots of pepper 
 over the surface. 
 
 Old turnips have so rank a taste that it is a vast im- 
 provement to this dish to mix with it half as much mashed 
 potato. What is left over, fry, like " Potato Balls." 
 
 Young Turnips. Scrape and lay in cold water half 
 an hour. Then boil three quarters of an hour in salted 
 boiling water. When tender, drain off the water, and 
 pour on enough milk to cover them. When it boils up 
 add a little flour, rubbed smooth in cold milk, and a large 
 lump of butter. 
 
 Turnips will not give out a disagreeable odor while 
 cooking if boiled slowly and a lump of charcoal is boiled 
 with them, or a small piece of a ripe red pepper. 
 
 Boiled Beets. 
 
 Wash the beets, but do not peel or cut them, for the 
 juice escapes very easily. Boil in cold salted water, two 
 or three hours, in winter, one hour in summer. When 
 tender, take them out of the water on a fork, and peel. 
 Slice while hot, into a dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, 
 and put dots of butter among the slices. Serve covered. 
 
 Those left from dinner may be heated over by steaming 
 them ; or they may be pickled, by pouring over them cold 
 vinegar, in which they should stand several hours before 
 being served. 
 
 Boiled Parsnips. 
 
 Wash and boil in cold salted water from three quarters 
 to one hour. When tender, skin them, split in half, and 
 lay them in a dish, buttering plentifully. Serve covered. 
 
 On no account leave them in the water after they are 
 done; it makes them soggy and destroys their flavor. 
 Use what are left over to fry for another meal. 
 
194 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Buttered Parsnips. 
 
 Boil as above ; skin and cut into round, thick slices. 
 Have ready in a sauce-pan, one tablespoonful of butter 
 and one teaspoonful of flour, previously rubbed together, 
 and two tablespoonfuls of milk. When it boils up, put 
 in the parsnips, and shake over the fire till smoking hot. 
 Serve hot in a covered dish. 
 
 Fried Parsnips. 
 
 Boil parsnips as above. When perfectly cold, cut them 
 lengthwise into thick slices, and dredge them with flour. 
 Have ready a hot frying-pan. Put in enough beef drip- 
 ping, ham fat, or lard to cover the bottom, and when 
 boiling hot, lay in the parsnips. Brown them well on 
 both sides. It will take only a few minutes. 
 
 Parsnip Cakes (fried). 
 
 Boil parsnips as above. Mash while hot with a potato- 
 masher, removing all the tough fibre. Add one third as 
 much mashed potato, with a little butter and milk or 
 cream; season with salt and pepper. With floured 
 hands make into balls and flatten them. Fry like 
 "Potato Balls." A beaten egg mixed in is an improve- 
 ment. 
 
 Parsnips with Boast Beef. 
 
 Wash and scrape, and proceed as with " Browned Pota- 
 toes." 
 
 Baked Onions. 
 
 Bermuda onions are best, because of their mild flavor. 
 Choose all of one size. Leave the skins on. Bake in the 
 oven till tender. Remove the skins, and dress with but- 
 ter, pepper, and salt. 
 
 Boiled Onions. 
 
 Choose those of uniform size. Boil twenty minutes, 
 in hot salted water. Drain the water off entirely ; add 
 
Dinner. 195 
 
 equal parts of fresh, boiling water and milk, and boil 
 twenty minutes more. When tender, lay them in a dish, 
 and season, with butter, salt and pepper. Thicken a little 
 of the milk, if you choose, with flour rubbed in cold water, 
 and boil till of the consistency of custard. Pour over 
 and serve covered. Never cook onions in an iron pot. 
 
 Fried Onions. 
 
 Peel, slice, and fry in hot lard or butter, about forty 
 minutes, till delicately brown. Season with pepper and 
 salt and serve hot, covered. 
 
 Winter Squash. 
 
 Cut it up, throw away the inside, and pare the pieces. 
 The best way to cook it is in a steamer, or colander, set 
 over a kettle of boiling water, so as not to touch the water. 
 Cover tight, and steam one hour. Or, boil slowly in only 
 just enough water to keep it from burning. When ten- 
 der, which should be in three quarters of an hour, drain 
 off all the water; press it, and mash with a potato- 
 masher, stirring in a large lump of butter, and a sprink- 
 ling of salt. When dished, smooth the top, and dot it with 
 pepper. Serve uncovered. Use what remains for " Squash 
 Pie, or Pudding," or for " Squash Fritters." 
 
 Or, it may be made into cakes, and fried like " Potato 
 Balls." 
 
 Summer Squash (boiled). 
 
 Wash and pare them thinly, unless the rind is extremely 
 tender. Put them whole into boiling water ; as little as 
 possible. Boil three quarters of an hour, till tender. 
 Drain thoroughly, and press the water out with a plate. 
 Stir in a large lump of butter, and a little pepper and 
 salt. Mash and mix well with a wooden spoon. Serve 
 hot, uncovered. If the squash is an old one, with large 
 seeds, run it through a colander, to remove these, before 
 seasoning. 
 
196 How to Cook Well 
 
 Fried Squash. 
 
 Wash and cut in round slices a quarter of an inch thick, 
 crook-necked, summer squashes. Pare and remove the 
 seeds if large. Sprinkle with salt, and let them stand a 
 few moments. Then dip into beaten egg ; afterwards 
 into fine bread-crumbs, and lay in a hot frying-pan, con- 
 taining a lump of butter, boiling hot. There should be 
 only enough to cover the bottom of the pan, as squashes 
 absorb grease. Brown the squash on both sides until 
 tender enough to be pierced by a straw. Serve hot. 
 
 You can dredge them with flour, instead of using egg 
 and bread-crumbs. 
 
 Boiled Cabbage. 
 
 Remove the outer leaves ; quarter and examine care- 
 fully, as cabbage is liable to be infested by insects. Soak 
 for one hour in cold water. Put into boiling water, salted, 
 an hour before dinner; boil fifteen minutes, skimming 
 well. Drain off the water, and fill up with that which is 
 fresh and boiling. When tender, drain well, press with a 
 plate, chop and stir in a lump of butter, pepper and salt. 
 
 If very large, boil one and one half hours. 
 
 It is a great improvement to omit salt in the water, 
 and boil with it a large piece of salt pork or bacon. This 
 should be removed before chopping the cabbage. A cup 
 of cream poured over it, after being dished, is an improve- 
 ment. What is left may be used for "Escaloped Cab- 
 bage." 
 
 The odor from boiling cabbage can be avoided if it is 
 boiled slowly and a lump of charcoal is put in the water, or 
 a tiny bit of a ripe red pepper, or a pinch of ammonia. 
 
 North Carolina Boiled Cabbage. 
 Pick over, wash and quarter a large cabbage. Let it 
 stand in cold water for an hour. Have ready boiling a 
 ham, or a smoked side ; skim well. An hour before din- 
 
Dinner. 197 
 
 ner, put into the boiling liquor, with the ham, the cabbage. 
 Boil fast ; when tender, chop fine. Skim off the grease, 
 and pour some of the liquor over the cabbage. It may be 
 served on the platter containing the ham. 
 
 Those who do not like ham, can substitute corned beef. 
 
 Boiled Cauliflower. 
 
 Remove the outside leaves and soak for an hour in cold 
 salted water. If very large, cut in half ; otherwise cook 
 it whole. Put into salted boiling water, and boil slowly, 
 so that it will not break, about half an hour. When half 
 done, pour off the water, and cover with equal parts of 
 fresh boiling water and milk, or milk alone. When ten- 
 der, lay the cauliflower in a hot dish and sprinkle with 
 salt. Serve at once, covered, as it darkens with standing. 
 
 If you like, serve " Drawn Butter " with it. Use what 
 is left, also the milk, for soup, to which it is a pleasant 
 addition. 
 
 Stewed Cauliflower. 
 
 Cut into small clusters, throwing away the outer leaves 
 and stem. Lay for one hour into cold salted water. 
 Then put into boiling water. Boil slowly twenty min- 
 utes. Take out the cauliflowers and lay them in a dish. 
 Then pour off all but about half a cupful of the water. 
 While this is boiling stir in half a cupful of milk, in which 
 you have rubbed one tablespoonful of flour. When this 
 boils up add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and 
 sprinkle with salt. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower, 
 and serve at once, covered. 
 
 Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Wash, scrape, and lay in cold water for one hour. 
 Then cut around in thick slices. Put into boiling water, 
 salted, and boil slowly from one to one and one half hours. 
 When half done, pour off the water and add fresh boiling 
 water, with salt. When tender, drain off the water and 
 
198 How to Cook Well. 
 
 cover them with milk. When this boils up, dish the car- 
 rots, and thicken the milk by adding to it, while boiling, 
 one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. 
 Stir in a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a pinch 
 of salt. Pour the hot sauce over the carrots and serve 
 covered. 
 
 After draining off the first water they may be stewed 
 in gravy not too thick. In this case no sauce is needed. 
 
 No. 2. Wash, scrape, and cut into round, thick slices. 
 Melt a lump of butter in a sauce-pan. Put in the carrots, 
 with a few slices of onion, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Brown nicely, then pour in some " Stock," and simmer till 
 the carrots are tender, full half an hour. Dish, nnd thicken 
 the stock by stirring in, while boiling, one tablespoonful 
 of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Pour over the 
 carrots, cover and serve hot. 
 
 Stewed Salsify or Oyster Plant. 
 
 Wash, but do not scrape it, as that will cause it to turn 
 black and to lose much of its flavor. Put it into boiling 
 water salted. Boil slowly till tender, about three quarters 
 of an hour. Then take out the salsify and rub off the 
 skin ; cut into pieces an inch long, and return to the sauce- 
 pan, having previously poured off all the water but half a 
 cupful, and added half a cupful of milk. When this boils 
 thicken with one teaspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in 
 cold water. Add salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of 
 butter. Boil up once and serve in a covered dish. 
 
 If you are making soup, the water which was poured 
 off can be added to that, and it will impart a pleasant 
 flavor of oysters. Do not cook salsify in an iron pot, as 
 it .blackens it. 
 
 Salsify Fritters, or Mock Oysters, 
 
 Boil whole as above, till tender. Take it out and skin 
 it. When perfectly cold, mash with a potato masher, 
 
Dinner. 199 
 
 taking care to pick out all the fibres. Moisten with a lit- 
 tle milk and melted butter. Add a pinch of salt and work 
 to a smooth paste. Beat some eggs, allowing one and 
 one half to each cupful of salsify. Work them in, and 
 form the whole into balls, with floured hands. Flatten 
 them, dredge with flour, and brown on both sides in a 
 frying-pan containing boiling beef-dripping or lard enough 
 to keep them from sticking. 
 
 Fried Salsify. 
 
 Wash and parboil it. Cut it into lengthwise slices. 
 " Egg-and-Crumb " them, and fry brown on both sides. 
 
 Stuffed Peppers. 
 
 8 green peppers. 
 ' 2 ounces butter. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls olive oil. 
 
 2 chopped onions. 
 
 1 pint mushrooms. 
 ' A little salt and white pepper. 
 
 A dash of red pepper. 
 
 A dash of nutmeg. 
 "Tomato Sauce." 
 
 3 handf uls fresh bread-crumbs. 
 
 4 eggs (yolks only). 
 
 1 tablespoonful chopped pars- 
 ley. 
 
 Cut off one end of the peppers (with stem). Neatly 
 remove seed and inside, which are not used. Place in 
 salt water and soak all night. 
 
 Next day prepare stuffing as follows : Put in a sauce^ 
 pan the butter, oil, onions, and mushrooms. Stir and fry 
 about ten minutes to evaporate moisture. Season and add 
 four tablespoonfuls of the tomato sauce. Boil a little, 
 Then add the bread-crumbs, egg-yolks well beaten, and 
 parsley. Mix well, stir, and cook three minutes longer. 
 When cool fill the peppers and replace ends. Put into a 
 pan with a little water and a lump of butter. Bake three 
 quarters of an hour, basting frequently, Place when done 
 on a platter and pour the rest of the tomato sauce around, 
 already made hot. Serve hot. 
 
200 How to Cook Well 
 
 Stewed Celery. 
 
 Cut the white part of the celery into pieces one inch 
 long. Drop into boiling water. Boil half an hour. Then 
 pour off the water, and cover with milk. Boil until the 
 celery is tender, perhaps half an hour. Just before serv- 
 ing, add pepper and salt, and several bits of butter rolled 
 in flour. After, boiling a moment, serve in a covered 
 dish. 
 
 Do not use an iron kettle, for fear of discoloring the 
 celery. The greener portion of the celery can be used in 
 the same way ; but the taste is not so delicate, and it will 
 not make as handsome a dish. 
 
 Boiled Spinach. 
 
 As spinach shrinks very much in cooking be sure to 
 buy plenty. A peck is not too much for a family of 
 seven. Wash well, and pick it over carefully, as it is lia- 
 ble to be gritty. Put it into boiling salted water, enough 
 to fill the pot ; for unless a great deal of water is used, 
 the spinach will be bitter. Boil half an hour. When 
 tender, drain thoroughly, pressing with a plate. Chop it 
 fine, adding a piece of butter. Dish and smooth the top. 
 Lay on the top, two hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices. 
 Serve vinegar with it. 
 
 Spinach a la Creme. 
 
 Boil as above, and rub through a colander, after press- 
 ing the water off. Season with pepper and salt. Put 
 into a sauce-pan with a small piece of butter, and a little 
 cream. Boil up well, stirring all the time, and dish. Gar- 
 nish with sliced hard-boiled eggs, if you like. 
 
 Greens (various kinds). 
 
 The roots and tops of young beets, young cabbages, 
 turnips, or mustard-tops, dandelions and lettuce make 
 good greens. Prepare and boil like "Boiled Spinach," 
 
Dinner. 201 
 
 taking care to use plenty of water, and serve in the same 
 way. Many persons like to boil a piece of bacon or salt 
 pork with greens ; in case you do this, omit the salt in 
 the water. 
 
 Cabbages and dandelions require to be boiled one hour, 
 beet-tops will be done in three quarters of an hour, and 
 turnip-tops in twenty minutes. Serve with vinegar. 
 
 Greens will not give out a disagreeable odor while boil- 
 ing if boiled slowly, and a piece of bread pinned in a 
 cloth is boiled with them. 
 
 Boiled Asparagus. 
 
 Wash and cut the stalks of equal length, trimming off 
 the woody ends. Tie them in a bunch, with a strip of 
 muslin. Put into plenty of boiling water, salted. Boil 
 very gently one hour, longer if old. Have ready three 
 or four slices of toasted bread ; dip them in the asparagus 
 water ; butter them and lay on a hot platter. When the 
 asparagus is tender, take it out carefully, so as not to 
 break it. Lay it in the middle of the dish, remove the 
 string, and arrange the asparagus over the toast. Cover 
 with thin shavings of butter. 
 
 Another way is to pour over all a sauce made as fol- 
 lows : Pour off all but about half a cupful of the aspara- 
 gus liquor. Add half a cupful of milk, and thicken it 
 while boiling, with one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed 
 smooth in another half cupful of milk. Add butter size 
 of an egg, and let it boil till smooth and thick as custard. 
 The yolk of an egg added at the last is an improvement. 
 
 Asparagus liquor should always be saved for soup, if 
 you are making it. 
 
 Peas. 
 
 Shell, but do not wash them. Soak for half an hour in 
 just enough water to cover them. Put them on to boil 
 in the same water, without adding any more. Cover and 
 
202 How to Cook Well. 
 
 boil slowly (counting from the time they begin) from half 
 an hour to one hour, according to their age. When ten- 
 der, and the skins look shrivelled, they are done. Drain 
 off most of the liquor, add pepper and salt, dredge in a 
 little flour and stir in a lump of butter. Serve hot, cov- 
 ered. Some persons prefer them dry; others pour into 
 the boiling liquor, half a cupful of cream, or milk in 
 which one tablespoonful of flour has been rubbed. Let 
 it boil until the sauce thickens. Use what may be left, 
 for "Pea Fritters." 
 
 Old peas should have a pinch of soda thrown into the 
 water a few minutes before serving them. 
 
 French, String or Snap Beans. 
 
 String carefully, breaking off each end. Cut each bean 
 into two or three pieces. Then cook like peas, only at 
 least half an hour longer. 
 
 Another way is to boil a piece of salt pork with them, 
 omitting butter and salt. The pork should not be served 
 with the beans, but may be used for a second cooking. 
 
 Use what beans are left for salad ; or warm over with 
 peas left from a former dinner. Together they make a 
 very good dish. 
 
 Shelled, Lima or Butter Beans. 
 
 Soak in cold water just enough to cover them for half 
 an hour. Then boil in the same water, without adding 
 more, and keep them covered. Do not salt them until 
 nearly done, as that makes them hard. Some beans 
 require to boil longer than others. The usual time is one 
 hour. When tender, dip them out with a skimmer, and 
 dish with plenty of butter. Boil with them a piece of 
 salt pork, or bacon, if you like, and omit the salt. 
 
 Serve what are left for "Succotash." They are also 
 good warmed over with tomatoes. 
 
Dinner. 203 
 
 Dried Beans. 
 
 Soak one cupful of beans over night in one quart of 
 cold water. Three hours before dinner drain this off, and 
 pour over the beans two quarts of warm water. Boil 
 slowly, stirring occasionally. When half-done, add one 
 tablespoonful of salt. When tender, drain well, and dish 
 with plenty of butter, and a little pepper. Use the water 
 for soup. 
 
 Winter Succotash. 
 
 This can be made of dried lima beans, and canned com, 
 which may be left from former dinners. Warm them 
 over together with a little milk and butter, and thicken 
 the milk with a little flour. 
 
 Boiled Corn. 
 
 Take off all the green leaves, except one layer, and pull 
 off the dark part of silk ; put into boiling salted water, 
 and boil from twenty minutes to an hour, according to 
 the age. 
 
 Do not let it continue to boil when it is tender, though 
 it may stand in the hot water without injury till dinner is 
 ready, if the pot is set back. Too long boiling makes it 
 tough. When ready to dish, remove the leaves and serve 
 in a napkin. 
 
 Corn cooked in this way has a much finer flavor than 
 when boiled without the leaves. 
 
 What is left may be cut from the cob, and warmed in 
 milk, or used for " Corn Fritters." 
 
 Stewed Corn. 
 
 Cut from the cob, and put into boiling water, only just 
 enough to cover it, and stew fifteen minutes. 
 
 Drain off the water, cover with milk, and stew till ten- 
 der, dredging in a little flour from time to time. Just 
 before serving, add pepper and salt, and a lump of butter. 
 
204 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Succotash. 
 
 Cut the corn from the cobs, and measure it. Shell lima 
 or butter beans, and allow of vthem about two thirds as 
 much as you have corn. Put the cobs into hot water and 
 boil them half an hour. Take them out about an hour 
 before dinner and add the beans to the water. Boil slowly, 
 half an hour, then add the corn. Just before dinner, 
 drain off the water, and proceed as with " Stewed Corn." 
 It is not necessary to boil the cobs first ; but this heightens 
 the flavor of the corn. 
 
 Corn in Other "Ways. 
 
 (See Index.} 
 
 Stewed Tomatoes. 
 
 Pour scalding water over the tomatoes. Let them 
 stand a minute. Then skin them. Quarter them, and 
 extract the cores. Put them in a sauce-pan (not a tin 
 one). Cover and stew slowly without the addition of 
 water. Mash them once in a while, with a wooden spoon. 
 At the end of three quarters of an hour, add salt and pep- 
 per, a few fine bread-crumbs, and a large lump of butter. 
 Stir until smooth and serve covered. 
 
 Never throw away even a spoonful of tomato. Tomato 
 left over can be used in as great a variety of ways as 
 potato. (See " Ways to Use Tomato.") 
 
 A Summer Medley. 
 
 Stew together, tomatoes and lima beans. When they 
 have cooked three quarters of an hour, add corn cut from 
 the cob. In twenty minutes, add salt and pepper and a 
 lump of butter. 
 
 What is left may be baked for breakfast, with the addi- 
 tion of a pint of bread-crumbs, seasoned and moistened, 
 using a buttered pudding-dish. Meat may also be added, 
 chopped fine, if you like. 
 
Dinner. 205 
 
 This dish may be made of the remains of a former din- 
 ner, and is very good with either beans or corn, as well as 
 with the two. 
 
 Tomatoes in Other Ways. 
 (See Index.) 
 
 Stewed Cucumbers. 
 
 Prepare as for " Raw Cucumbers," but slice thick. Take 
 out the seeds ; put into enough boiling water to cover 
 them, and stew fifteen minutes. Then drain off the water. 
 Add enough fresh boiling water to keep them from burn- 
 ing. 
 
 When this boils, add a cupful of milk, in which one 
 teaspoonful of flour has been dissolved. Sprinkle with 
 pepper and salt, and add a lump of butter. Stir as it 
 boils up. If not thick enough, dredge in more flour. 
 Serve in a covered dish. 
 
 It is said that stewed cucumbers will hurt no one. 
 
 Cucumbers in Other Ways. 
 
 (See Index.) 
 
 Fried Egg Plant. 
 
 Slice one half inch thick and pare. Lay in cold salted 
 water for an hour. Wipe dry. Dip each slice into beaten 
 egg ; then in corn meal, or fine bread or cracker-crumbs, 
 and fry in enough lard, or beef-drippings, to brown them. 
 Cook until tender enough to be pierced by a straw. 
 
 What is left over may be used for " Mousaka." 
 
 Stuffed Egg Plant. 
 (See Page 71.) 
 
 Okra. 
 
 Cut the pods into round, thick slices. Put them into 
 boiling salted water, only enough to cover them. Simmer 
 
206 How to Cook Well. 
 
 slowly three quarters of an hour. When tender add salt, 
 pepper, and a lump of butter. Serve in a covered dish. 
 
 A few green grapes stewed with the okra gives it an 
 agreeable flavor. 
 
 What is left may be used for soup. 
 
 Okra and Tomatoes. 
 
 Cook like the above, but mix with the okra half as much 
 tomato, and use no water, as the tomatoes are sufficiently 
 juicy. For this, the okra should be cut into thin slices. 
 
 Use what is left for soup, or to bake. 
 
 Baked Okra and Tomatoes. 
 
 Stew fifteen minutes, prepared as above. When sea- 
 soned, put into a buttered pudding-dish, lined with bread, 
 or cracker-crumbs. Put crumbs on top and bake half an 
 hour in a hot oven. 
 
 Boiled Eice. 
 
 Wash a cupful of rice. Rub it hard between the hands 
 and use several waters, till there is no milkiness. Put the 
 rice into a double boiler, pour over it one quart of boiling 
 water and add two teaspoonfuls of salt. Allow one hour 
 for it to boil. In ten minutes stir gently with a fork. 
 After that do not touch it. Fifteen minutes before din- 
 ner, drain off all the water. Uncover and let it dry out. 
 Put on the cover, once in a while, and shake it violently 
 up and down. Heap lightly in a dish, and serve uncov- 
 ered. Rice cooked in this way will make a beautiful 
 looking dish, every kernel standing separate and dry. 
 
 It may be cooked in an ordinary sauce-pan, but is more 
 liable to burn. In this case boil hard and fast for twenty 
 minutes, shaking the sauce-pan frequently, not sideways, 
 but up and down. 
 
 Leave it uncovered to dry after draining, only about 
 five minutes. 
 
 To use what is left, see " Ways to use Cold Rice." 
 
Dinner. 207 
 
 Rice in Other Ways. 
 
 (See Index.) 
 
 / ; 
 
 Boiled Macaroni. 
 
 To a quarter of a pound of macaroni allow one dessert- 
 spoonful of salt. Put it in a deep sauce-pan, having 
 broken it into convenient lengths. Pour over it as much 
 boiling water as the sauce-pan will hold. Macaroni needs 
 a great quantity, as it soaks up much water, and is not 
 good unless kept well under water during the whole pro- 
 cess of boiling. Boil slowly (so as not to break it) for 
 two hours, stirring occasionally from the bottom with a 
 fork. When done, pour it into a colander, and drain off 
 all the water. Then dish, with generous lumps of butter 
 laid among the pieces. Serve covered. 
 
 Another way is to pour off the water when done, and 
 cover it with milk. When this boils, dredge in a little 
 flour and add a piece of butter. 
 
 Some kinds of macaroni will boil in a shorter time ; 
 but it should be very thoroughly cooked. 
 
 i 
 Milan Macaroni. 
 
 li quarts of beef or mutton 1 1 pound macaroni, 
 broth. I & tablespoonf ul salt. 
 
 Put the broth on the fire fully two hours before dinner. 
 When it boils, put in the macaroni and salt. Boil very 
 slowly until the macaroni is tender. Drain through a 
 colander, saving the broth for soup. Dish with a little 
 butter. 
 
 Macaroni in Other Ways. 
 (See Index.) 
 
208 
 
 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Ways to use Cold Potatoes. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. 
 
 In Hash. 
 
 In Stew. 
 
 Potatoes with Giblets. 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Potato. 
 
 Kentucky or Escalopecl Potato. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 
 Broiled Potatoes. 
 
 Potatoes and Cream. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes, with Gravy. 
 
 Potato Rechauffee. 
 
 Potato Salad. 
 
 Potato au Gratin 
 
 Mashed Potato. 
 
 Potato Balls. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 In Fish Balls. 
 
 St. Patrick's Pie. 
 
 Potato Puff. 
 
 Breakfast Turnovers. 
 
 Stuffing for Fish or Poultry. 
 
 To thicken Soup. 
 Casserole of Fish. 
 Escaloped Fish. 
 In Codfish Puff. 
 With Mashed Turnips. 
 In Parsnip Cakes. 
 Salmon a P Indienne. 
 
 Ways to use Cold Bice. 
 
 In Soup. 
 
 Rice and Tomatoes. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes. 
 
 Dolmathes. 
 
 Casserole Rice and Meat. 
 
 Chicken baked in Rice. 
 
 Baked Rice. 
 
 An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. 
 
 Pilau. 
 
 Rice and Meat Croquettes. 
 
 Ways to use. Cooked Tomato. 
 
 In Soup. 
 Tomato Sauce. 
 In Hash. 
 In Stews. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 Rice Balls. 
 Rice Waffles. 
 Rice Corn Bread. 
 Rice Muffins. 
 Rice Griddle Cakes. 
 Rice Pudding. 
 Snow Balls. 
 Hidden Apples. 
 Anglo-Francais Pie. 
 
 An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. 
 Rice and Tomatoes. 
 A Summer Medley. 
 Okra and Tomatoes. 
 
DESSERTS. 
 
 PIES; 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Pies should be light, flaky and tender, and the bottom 
 crust, in particular, should be well-baked. A pie made 
 thus is a very different thing from the leathery sodden 
 things that go by the name in so many families. 
 
 Use only good shortening for pies, and have it as cold 
 and firm as possible. Have the water also cold, and stand 
 in a cold place while mixing and rolling out the pastry. 
 As to flour, some kinds will never make good pastry, 
 though the very best for bread. It is well to buy what is 
 known as pastry flour. It is not only better for pies, but 
 cheaper than other kinds. 
 
 Directions for mixing pie crust are given in each 
 receipt. Use only enough water to make it adhere, 
 otherwise it will be tough. Use a knife to mix with, not 
 the fingers. In rolling out, handle as little as possible 
 (this is one secret of success) and be quick in your motions. 
 Roll always from the centre toward the edges, and roll as 
 little as possible only just enough to make it smooth 
 and evenly thin, after the shortening is all in. Experi- 
 enced pastry-makers pass the rolling-pin only once over 
 the paste, pressing carefully and evenly as they go. It 
 makes pastry more crisp and flaky to be left for awhile in 
 a very cold place when ready to roll out for the pie-plates, 
 and have it cold, when put in the oven. 
 
 Tin pie-plates are better than earthen ones. The pies 
 
210 How to CooJc Well 
 
 bake better on the bottom. When done, they can be 
 easily removed from the tin to a clean china plate before 
 serving. Pie-plates need not be greased. Having rolled 
 a part of the paste thin and evenly, and as nearly circular 
 as possible, lay it over the plate, letting it drop gradually 
 from one side, so that no air-bubbles will be left in. Press 
 it down evenly, and if there are air-bubbles, prick with a 
 fork. Take the plate on the palm of the left hand, and 
 with a knife held aslant in the right, trim the edges, but 
 not too close, as the entire edge of the pan must be left 
 covered. (The scraps can be collected and rolled out 
 afterwards for a rim to put around the edge of the upper 
 crust.) 
 
 Fill with whatever you like, but not until you are ready 
 to bake, for if the filling is at all moist, it will make the 
 crust soggy. Wet the entire edge of the crust. Roll out 
 the top crust, and with a knife cut slits in the centre in a 
 pretty pattern. Lay this over the pie, trim the edges as 
 before, and press it with a fork all around, so as to unite 
 it with the bottom crust. Or, cut a long strip of paste, 
 wet one edge, and roll it over, and lay the roll around the 
 edge of the pie, having pressed the top and bottom crusts 
 together with the finger-tips. 
 
 While baking, keep the heat as great at the bottom as 
 at the top, but if you have any doubt about the bottom 
 crust being well done, set the tin on top of the stove for 
 a minute. When done the pie will shrink from the 
 edge of the tin, and will not stick to the bottom when 
 taken out. 
 
 Puff Paste. 
 
 Wo. 1. Allow one large cupful of flour to each pie. 
 
 When you have measured out flour for as many pies as 
 you mean to make, weigh it. Then weigh an equal quan- 
 tity of butter. Have it as cold as possible. Salt the flour 
 slightly. Chop into it half the butter. When as fine as 
 
Desserts. 211 
 
 coarse sand, add ice-cold water, only just enough to hold 
 the dough together. Put it on a bread-board, on which 
 you have sprinkled flour. Roll out thin, handling and 
 rolling as little as possible, and taking care to roll from 
 the centre towards the edges, not back and forth. Lay 
 on thin shavings of butter (using what you have reserved) 
 in close rows all over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle 
 with flour. Roll up, and roll out again. Do this till all 
 the butter is gone. It should be put on thick enough to 
 be used up in three rollings. Roll out very evenly the 
 last time, and put it on the pie. Bake in a quick oven, 
 to make it puff up well. 
 
 A plainer crust may be used for the bottom of the pie. 
 
 No. 2. / 1 pound flour. 
 
 2.ri 
 u 
 
 A little salt. i cupful ice-water. 
 
 | pound butter. 
 
 Sprinkle the salt through the flour, then chop half the 
 butter into it. Beat the yolk of the egg, and stir it into 
 the water. Pour this into the flour, use a knife, and stir 
 it only just enough to make the flour adhere. Put it on 
 a floured bread-board, roll it out thin, and proceed as with 
 "Puff Paste" No. 1. 
 
 After baking, wash over the top while hot with the 
 white of the egg, beaten a little, to give it a glaze. 
 
 This is the best paste to use for Pates. 
 
 Eich Pie Crust. 
 
 (For One Pie.) 
 
 1 heaping cupful flour. 
 A small pinch salt. 
 
 2 even tablespoonf uls lard. 
 
 4 cupful very cold water. 
 2 even tablespoonf uls butter. 
 
 Stir the salt into the flour. Put in the lard, and chop 
 till very fine. Mix in the water with a knife. 
 
 Put the dough on a floured bread-board and roll out, 
 handling as little as possible. 
 
212 How to CooTc Well 
 
 Always roll from the centre towards the edges. When 
 very thin, stick bits of butter in close rows all over the 
 surface, using a knife ; sprinkle with flour and roll up as 
 you would a sheet of paper. Roll out as before till the 
 butter is all used, which ought to be in three rollings. 
 Lay the paste in a cold place for half an hour to make it 
 flaky and firm ; then roll out for the pie. 
 
 Plain Pie Crust. 
 
 f 1 heaping cupful flour. I 2 even tablespoonfuls lard. 
 
 1 A pinch salt. I i cupful very cold water. 
 
 Mix the flour and salt, chop in the lard until fine, stir 
 in the water, and set it in a cold place to become flaky. 
 Then roll out thin. 
 Makes one pie. 
 
 This makes a very flaky pie crust, though it is not a 
 handsome one. Its advantage over other crusts is, that it 
 is more quickly made. 
 
 Bridget's Pie Crust, 
 (For Two Pies.) 
 
 2 heaping cupf uls flour. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 | teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 
 i as much soda as cream of tartar. 
 
 1 large tablespoonful lard. 
 
 A little water or milk. 
 
 Sift the salt, cream of tartar and soda with the flour. 
 
 Chop the lard into it. With a knife stir in only just 
 enough water or milk (very cold) to make a stiff dough. 
 
 Roll out as lightly and quickly as possible, taking care 
 to roll it thin. 
 
 This is a very wholesome crust, though a plain one. 
 
 Bread-Dough Pie Crust. 
 
 For one pie take one heaping cupful of light bread 
 dough, knead it and roll it out a quarter of an inch thick. 
 
Desserts. 213 
 
 Lay bits of butter all over it, about half an inch apart. 
 Sprinkle slightly with flour, and fold it over and over. Roll 
 out again and distribute the butter and flour as before. 
 Fold and press it down with the rolling-pin. Roll it out 
 extremely thin, remembering that it will rise thicker. Use 
 like any pie crust. 
 
 For a beginner in pastry-making, T recommend this. It 
 is easier to make than any other kind, as it does not have 
 to be handled so carefully. Be particular to use plenty 
 of butter, roll thin, and you cannot have a more whole- 
 some crust than this. 
 
 Mrs. Gen. Lee's Boiled Pastry. 
 
 Take any amount of flour you wish to use. Add a lit- 
 tle salt. Pour on this, directly from the tea-kettle, water 
 which is actually boiling at the time. Use enough to mix 
 into a moderately stiff dough. Roll out the paste on a 
 floured bread-board, and use for any kind of dumplings. 
 
 This is very delicate, and will hurt no one, aa no shorten- 
 ing is used for it. 
 
 Potato Crust (for Dumplings and Meat Pies). 
 
 8 large potatoes, boiled and 
 
 mashed. 
 1 large table spoonful lard. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 Flour enough to make a soft 
 dough. 
 
 1 pint milk or water. 
 
 Rub the lard through the potatoes while hot ; stir in 
 the milk and salt ; then the flour. Mix very thoroughly. 
 Work well on a floured bread-board, and roll out, thin, 
 for dumplings; one inch thick for meat pies. For the 
 latter, it is an improvement to add from one to three eggs, 
 beaten well. 
 
 Crust for Meat Pies. 
 
 Make like " Baking Powder Biscuit," using rather wore 
 lard. Roll it about three quarters of an inch thick, and lay 
 
214 How to Cook Well 
 
 over the top of the pie. An under crust is not often 
 used for meat pies ; it is not considered wholesome. 
 
 To Glaze Pie Crust. 
 
 Beat one egg, or the white alone, and rub it over the 
 top of the pie. 
 
 To Prevent a Soggy Under Crust. 
 
 If the bottom crust of fruit pies, or any other juicy 
 kind, is rubbed over with a beaten egg, it will be a sure 
 preventive of its being soggy. 
 
 A Cream to Serve with Fruit Pies. 
 
 1 table spoonful corn starch or 
 arrowroot. 
 
 {1 pint milk. 
 A pinch salt. 
 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 Scald the milk, with the salt and sugar ; reserving a lit- 
 tle of the milk in which to rub the cornstarch. Add this 
 to the milk when boiling and stir till thick as cream. 
 Serve in a pitcher when cold, as a substitute for cream 
 for those who like this accompaniment. 
 
 Mince Pies, 
 
 For mince-meat, see the following receipts. They are 
 baked with both an under and an upper crust. A pretty 
 way to make one for Christmas is with letters for the 
 word " Christmas " cut out of the paste and laid on the 
 top crust before the pie goes in the oven. 
 
 As mince pies are usually heated before serving and as 
 that always freshens pie-crust, it is a good plan for busy 
 housekeepers to bake several at a time. It is convenient 
 to have them in the house in case of unexpected com- 
 pany, besides being less trouble than to bake them con- 
 stantly. 
 
Desserts. 
 
 215 
 
 Mince Meat. No. 1. 
 
 2 pounds beef (from the round). 
 
 1 pound suet (chopped). 
 
 4 pounds apples (chopped). 
 
 2 pounds raisins (chopped). 
 
 1 pound raisins, stoned, but 
 
 whole. 
 1 pound currants, well washed. 
 
 pound citron, sliced fine. 
 
 2 tablespoon fills cinnamon. 
 
 tablespoonf ul cloves. 
 
 table spoonful salt. 
 
 nutmeg. 
 
 pint brandy. 
 
 pint wine. 
 
 Boil the beef, and chop it fine. Add the other things, 
 taking pains to mix all together very thoroughly. Put 
 into a stone jar, and tie a cloth over the top. When you 
 want to make pies, dip out enough, sweeten it to taste, 
 and cover what is left in the jar. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul allspice. 
 
 2 nutmegs, grated. 
 
 G lemons, juice only. 
 
 1 quart brandy. 
 
 1 quart wine. 
 
 1 pound chopped apples. 
 
 1 tablcspoonful salt. 
 
 1 tongue, boiled and minced. 
 
 2 pounds suet, chopped. 
 2 pounds raisins. 
 
 4 pounds currants. 
 
 1 pound citron, chopped. 
 
 2 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 
 
 Mix well together a week before using. 
 
 Whenever you make pies, add fresh chopped apples. 
 Instead of brandy, good cider boiled down to half its 
 quantity will do, and for wine, currant wine may be used. 
 
 If you choose, cut from the tongue a few thin slices for 
 the table before mincing it, and substitute, for the meat 
 thus removed, a little ordinary beef, boiled. 
 
 No. 3. 4 pounds beef from the round. 
 
 Boil slowly till tender. Remove all gristle, and when 
 cold chop- very fine. Measure it, and to every pint, put 
 
 2 pints raisins. 
 1 pint currants. 
 1 pint suet. 
 1 pint molasses. 
 
 1 pint quince jelly or marma- 
 lade. 
 
 1 pint any kind fruit syrup. 
 \ pound citron. 
 
 2 pounds brown sugar. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls cinnamon. 
 
 1 grated nutmeg. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cloves. 
 
 1 tablespoonful allspice. 
 
 1 pint wine. 
 
 1 pint brandy. 
 
216 How to CooJc Wett. 
 
 Mix these ingredients well together with the meat, at 
 least a week before using it. When needed take out as 
 much meat as required, and to every pint add nearly two 
 pints of chopped apple. 
 
 Mince meat made in this way without apple is sure 
 to keep, and adding the apple fresh gives it a very fine 
 flavor. 
 
 Mock Mince Meat. 
 
 12 butter crackers or 5 soda 
 
 crackers. 
 
 1 pint boiling water. 
 1 cupful butter. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 k pound raisins. 
 
 pound currants. 
 
 2 nutmegs, grated. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 
 
 1 teaspoonful allspice. 
 
 h tablespoouful cloves. 
 
 1 cupful vinegar. 
 
 Roll the crackers (not very fine). Then mix all the 
 ingredients together, and make into pies at once, as it is 
 not meant to keep. Beef suet, chopped fine, may be 
 used instead of butter. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pie. 
 
 1 pound sweet potatoes. 
 / 2 eggs. 
 \ i cup sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 
 A little nutmeg. 
 
 1 cupful milk or cream. 
 
 Boil or bake the potatoes. Mash while hot, or grate 
 when cold. Add the eggs beaten with the sugar, and 
 mix in the spice. Thin the mixture with milk or cream, 
 to the consistency of thin custard. 
 
 Line the pie-plates with pie crust. Pour in the mixture. 
 Bake, without a top crust, in a quick oven. 
 
 Makes two deep pies. 
 
 This is nice baked as a pudding in a deep, buttered 
 pudding-dish. 
 
 Cranberry Pie. 
 
 Stew cranberries, and sweeten. Put into a bottom 
 crust, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Put 
 bars of paste over the top if you like. 
 
Desserts. 217 
 
 Confederate Pies. 
 
 1 cupful fine, white cornmeal 
 
 mush, hot. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 cupful cream, 
 
 4 eggs, well beaten. 
 
 3 tablespoouf uls butter, melted. 
 
 1 glass wine. 
 
 A little cinnamon. 
 
 Beat all well together. Have ready a nice crust in two 
 pie plates. Cover each with apple jelly. Pour the mix- 
 ture on this, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. 
 
 2 cupfuls pumpkin, boiled and 
 
 strained. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 I cupful brown sugar. 
 1 teaspoonf ul ginger. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 2 eggs well beaten. 
 
 To the pumpkin add the salt, sugar and spices. Make 
 the milk boiling hot, and stir into it the butter. Pour 
 half the milk on the pumpkin ; mix thoroughly till smooth 
 and add the rest ; then stir in the eggs. Line two pie- 
 plates with crust and half bake them ; pour in the mixture, 
 and bake without a top crust about half an hour in a 
 moderately hot oven. 
 
 Pumpkin pies should be deep, and the mixture should 
 not be allowed to stand in the crust before baking, or it 
 will be soggy. Keep the heat steady, or they will bake 
 in streaks. 
 
 Makes two large pies. 
 
 This makes a good pudding baked in a deep dish, espe- 
 cially if raisins are added. 
 
 Squash Pie. 
 
 Make like "Pumpkin Pie." The Hubbard squash is 
 the best for pies. 
 
218 How to Cools Well. 
 
 Squash Pie without Eggs. 
 
 l pints stewed and strained 
 
 squash. 
 
 li cupfuls brown sugar. 
 1 teaspoonf ul ginger. 
 1 teaspoonf ul cinnamon. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch or 
 
 cracker crumbs. 
 Butter size of a walnut. 
 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 To the squash add the sugar, spice and salt. 
 
 Boil the milk, reserving enough to wet the cornstarch 
 smooth. Stir this into the milk, when boiling. Boil a 
 minute, till it thickens. Melt the butter in it, and pour 
 it hot on the squash ; add the lemon. Mix thoroughly 
 until no lumps remain. 
 
 Pour into two bottom crusts and put instantly into a 
 pretty hot oven. Keep the heat steady, and bake till firm. 
 Makes two large deep pies. 
 
 Dried Peach Pie. 
 
 Make like " Dried Apple Pie," omitting the spice and 
 ginger. Or make like " Marlborough Pie," using more 
 peach than apple, and omitting the cinnamon, and one 
 
 Dried Apple Pie. 
 
 Soak the apples over night. Then stew them in the 
 same water till tender. Let them boil down till most of 
 the water is absorbed. Then sweeten, add a little grated 
 nutmeg or cinnamon ; and sliced lemon or root ginger if 
 you like. Bake between two crusts, about fifteen minutes 
 in a hot oven. Serve cold, with sugar sifted over the top. 
 
 Apple Pie. 
 
 Make a nice " Apple Sauce." Bake it in a bottom crust 
 with bars of pastry laid across the top, or with two crusts. 
 
 Old-fashioned Apple Pie. 
 
 Line a plate or dish, with thin paste ; slice sour apples 
 very thin and heap high on the paste. Pour in a very 
 
Desserts. 219 
 
 little water or molasses. Add cinnamon or nutmeg and 
 scatter brown sugar thickly amongst the apple. Put 
 bits of butter plentifully over the top. Then cover with 
 the crust ; cut a slit in the middle and bake in a moderate 
 oven, about one hour. 
 
 To tell when it is done, run a clean broom straw 
 through the slit. If the apple inside feels tender, the 
 pie is done. 
 
 Eat cold, with sugar sifted over the top. 
 
 Apple Custard Pie. 
 
 1 cupful strained, stewed apple. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 1 cupful cream. 
 
 1 egg, well-beaten. 
 
 Mix all together in order. Pour into a bottom crust 
 and bake in a moderate oven half an hour. 
 Makes one pie. 
 
 Marlborough Pie. 
 
 Mix like " Marlborough Pudding," saving the whites 
 of the eggs for a " Meringue," and bake in a bottom crust. 
 
 3 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 Custard Pie. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Beat the eggs with the sugar. Mix in the cold milk 
 and flavoring. Pour into a bottom crust previously baked 
 a little, taking care to press the dough down firmly and 
 evenly before baking, to prevent its puffing up. Have 
 the oven very hot ; in a few minutes the custard will be- 
 come set or firm. Take it out instantly or it will curdle. 
 
 If you like, grate nutmeg over the top. 
 
 For Another Way to make custard for custard pie, 
 see page 274. 
 
220 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Cornstarch Pie. 
 
 1 pint milk, 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (yolks only). 
 4 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 
 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 
 
 Mix like " Cornstarch Custard." 
 
 Bake like " Custard Pie," but in a moderate oven, as in 
 this the milk is hot. 
 
 Sweet Potato Custard Pie. 
 
 ( 2 cupfuls sweet potato, boiled. 
 \ i cupful butter (less will do) 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla, or other 
 extract. 
 
 6 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 Pass the potato through a sieve while hot and add the 
 butter before it cools. Put the milk on to boil, reserving 
 one quarter of a cupful. In this dissolve the salt and 
 cornstarch, and stir into the milk while boiling. Add the 
 eggs, beaten with the sugar, stirring fast till it thickens. 
 Remove from the fire ; add the vanilla, and pour it over 
 the potato. 
 
 Mix smooth ; pour into a bottom crust ; bake in a mod- 
 erate oven, until firm (about twenty minutes). 
 
 This makes four pies. Or it may be baked in a deep 
 dish, as a pudding. 
 
 Potatoes left from dinner will do if great care is taken 
 to work them smooth by pouring the hot custard over 
 them gradually. 
 
 Cream Pie. No. 1, 
 
 1 pint cream. I 3 eggs, whites only. 
 
 cupful pulverized sugar. 1 A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 Sweeten the cream, add the eggs, beaten stiff; pour 
 into a bottom crust, and grate the nutmeg over the top. 
 Bake in a hot oven. Or, bake four thin round sheets of 
 
A 
 
 Desserts. 221 
 
 pie crust, and when cold fill each two with the mixture, as 
 soon as mixed, and serve at once without baking. 
 Makes two pies. 
 
 No. 2. f 1 egg. A pinch of salt, 
 
 ll 
 
 cupful pulverized 
 sugar. 
 
 A little flour. 
 
 A little nutmeg or lemon rind. 
 
 1 cupful cream. 
 
 Beat the egg with the sugar ; add the cream and salt ; 
 pour into a bottom crust ; dredge a little flour over it, and 
 grate on a little nutmeg, or lemon rind. 
 
 Bake in a hot oven until firm, or prepare like " Cream 
 Pie, No. 1." 
 
 Makes one small pie. 
 
 Lemon Pie. 
 
 1 table spoonffel starch (not corn 
 
 starch) . 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 Butter size of a nutmeg. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Wet the starch smooth with cold water, and stir it into 
 the cup of boiling water on the stove. Boil up a minute, 
 and pour upon the butter and sugar. Stir well. When 
 cool, add the juice and grated rind of the lemon. Beat 
 the eggs, reserving the white of one, and mix them in. 
 Pour into a deep pie-plate lined with crust. 
 
 Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. When 
 cool, spread with a " Meringue," and brown delicately. 
 
 Makes one large pie. 
 
 Rich Lemon Pie. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten separately). 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 i cupful water. 
 
 1 large or 2 small lemons. 
 
 3 powdered soda-crackers. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, and add to 
 them the other things in order, using both juice and 
 grated rind of the lemons. 
 
222 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Bake in a bottom crust, in a rather hot oven about fif- 
 teen minutes. When cool, spread with a " Meringue " and 
 brown delicately. 
 
 Makes one pie. 
 
 If you make cocoanut pie the same day, save the white 
 of one egg for that. The two pies look pretty served side 
 by side, as gold and silver pies. 
 
 Cocoanut Pie. 
 
 1 egg, white only. 1 1 cupful white sugar. 
 
 1 cupful grated cocoanut. | A few drops rose essence. 
 
 Beat the egg stiff ; add the cocoanut, sugar and flavor- 
 ing. 
 
 Put into a bottom crust and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Dessicated cocoanut may be used ; in this case add two 
 teaspoon fuls milk. 
 
 Makes one pie. 
 
 Rhubarb Pie. No. 1. 
 
 Cut rhubarb stalks into half-inch pieces. Pile high on 
 a bottom crust, with thick layers of brown sugar. Add a 
 few seedless raisins, if you like. Cover with crust. Cut a 
 slit in the middle, and bake in a slow oven forty minutes. 
 Test like apple pie. 
 
 N. B. As rhubarb is very juicy, be careful to pinch the 
 edges of the crust carefully together, or the juice will run 
 over the top. 
 
 No. 2. Stew rhubarb and drain off the superfluous 
 juice. Sweeten and bake as above, but in a quick oven. 
 
 No. 3. Prepare like No. 2, but add to each pint 
 
 1 pint sugar. 
 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls fine cracker-crumbs. 
 
 2 eggs (yolks only). 
 
 The eggs must be beaten light before adding them. 
 
Desserts. 223 
 
 Then work the whole to a smooth pulp. Bake without a 
 top crust, and when done cover with a " Meringue." 
 
 Cherry Pie. 
 
 The common, sour red cherry makes the best pies. 
 Line a deep pudding-dish with a plain crust ; fill with cher- 
 ries, carefully looked over, and layers of sugar. Heap 
 the dish, and cover with a rich crust. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven for one hour. Serve cold, with sifted sugar over 
 the top. Put bits of paste among the berries if you like. 
 If you have not many cherries, bake in a pie-plate. 
 
 Green Currant Pie. 
 
 Fill a bottom crust with green currants and sugar in 
 layers. Use at least two thirds as much sugar as fruit. 
 Pile the fruit high, as it will sink when cooked. 
 
 Cover with a top crust ; cut a slit in the middle and 
 bake in a slow oven, about half an hour. 
 
 Ripe Currant Pie. 
 
 1 cupful ripe red currants. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoonful flour, 
 i cupful water. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Crush the currants. Beat the yolks of the eggs, sugar 
 and flour together. Mix with the currants. Add the 
 water, and beat all together. Put into a bottom crust 
 and bake in a pretty hot oven. When baked, make a 
 " Meringue " of the whites. Spread it over the top, and 
 brown slightly in a hot oven. 
 
 Makes one pie. 
 
 A plainer pie may be made like " Green Currant Pie," 
 using less sugar. 
 
 Green Gooseberry Pie. 
 
 Top and tail the berries. Stew them in a porcelain sauce- 
 pan, with only enough water to keep them from burning. 
 When they break, remove and sweeten them lavishly. 
 
224 How to Cook Well. 
 
 When cold put into a bottom crust, cover with a crust, 
 and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. 
 
 Berry Pies (any kind). 
 
 Pick over the berries, and pile them high in a bottom 
 crust, with layers of sugar between, and a sprinkling of 
 flour. 
 
 Cover with a top crust, taking care to close the edges 
 well, that the juice may not run out. Cut a slit in the 
 middle to let the steam escape, and bake in a moderate 
 oven. Be sure to bake berry-pies well on the bottom. If 
 there is any doubt about this set them on the top of the 
 stove for a moment, after taking them from the oven. 
 
 Serve cold, with sugar sifted over the top. 
 
 Kich Blackberry Pie. 
 
 Line a deep pudding-dish with pastry ; put in a layer of 
 blackberries and sprinkle thickly with sugar; roll some 
 pastry into thin strips, and put them in. Place successive 
 layers of berries, sugar and pastry, until the dish is full. 
 Pour over all a pint of milk ; or less if the dish is small. 
 Cover the top with a sheet of pastry, cut a slit in the mid- 
 dle and bake in a slow oven for three hours if the dish is 
 very large. 
 
 Anglo-Francais Pie. 
 
 Line the edge of a deep dish with " Puff Paste." Pick 
 over and stone ripe, juicy cherries (sour cherries are 
 best) ; put a layer in the bottom of the dish, sprinkle 
 with sugar ; then put a layer of cold boiled rice, sprinkle 
 sugar and grated nutmeg on it. Repeat these layers till 
 the dish is filled. Add a little wine if you like, or brandy ; 
 cover with puff paste. Bake in a moderate oven one and 
 a half hours, if the dish is large. 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Make some plain "Pie Crust," or "Baking Powder 
 Biscuit" dough. Roll it thin as pie crust. Cut into 
 
Desserts. 225 
 
 squares, and lay in each a tart, juicy apple, pared and cored. 
 Bring the edges of the paste together, trim off what is 
 superfluous, and pineh them together with wet fingers to 
 make them adhere. Put them bottom side up in a drip- 
 ping-pan, and bake in a moderate oven about twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 Serve hot with sauce. 
 
 Cinnamon Fingers. 
 
 Make " Bread-dough Pie Crust." Roll it thin, and cut 
 into oblongs about five inches by three. 
 
 Have ready a little cinnamon, and twice as much sugar 
 mixed. Put a teaspoonful in the centre of the paste; 
 sprinkle with a few drops of water, and fold the dough 
 over, pasting the edges together all around with a little 
 water, and making long and narrow shapes. 
 
 Lay them in rows in a baking-pan, and bake in a very 
 quick oven about eight minutes. Serve hot or cold for a 
 plain dessert. In any case eat fresh. 
 
 These are easily made while making out bread, and 
 are favorites with children for lunch. I use the name 
 my own children gave them. 
 
 Turn-Overs. 
 
 Cut out pie crust, as for " Cinnamon Fingers." Spread 
 the surface with jelly or jam, and proceed as in the last 
 receipt. The various " Fillings for Cake " are nice for 
 these ; so is nice " Cranberry " or " Apple Sauce." 
 
 A good way to use various things left from tea. 
 
 Tarts. 
 
 Make them like " Pates " only smaller, and when cold, 
 fill with "Lemon Filling" or jelly, or any "Lemon Pie" 
 mixture, cooked. 
 
226 How to Cook Well. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 Apple Tapioca Pudding (or other fruit). 
 
 i cupful tapioca. 
 
 1 quart water. 
 
 saltspoonf ul salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 ( 6 or 8 juicy apples. 
 \ Nutmeg and cinnamon. 
 
 Soak the tapioca in the water for two hours, stirring 
 occasionally. When swelled, add the salt and sugar. 
 Have ready in a buttered pudding-dish, the apples, pared 
 and cored, and sprinkled with grated nutmeg and cinna- 
 mon. Pour the tapioca over. Cover, and bake in a slow 
 oven about one hour, removing the cover, and browning 
 quickly during the last ten minutes. (If the apples are 
 not juicy, add a little water. Some prefer to slice the 
 apples.) 
 
 Serve warm, not hot, with cream and sugar. 
 
 Or the tapioca may be put in layers with sliced oranges 
 or lemons (the seeds being carefully removed, or the bit- 
 ter taste will spoil the whole pudding), or peaches, canned 
 or fresh, or berries of any kind. The latter makes a sim- 
 ple but very delicious dessert, especially if raspberries are 
 used, and the top is spread with " Raspberry Trifle." 
 
 Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 r 4 heaping tablespoonfuls tapioca, 
 \ 1 cupful cold water. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 3 or 4 eggs (beaten separately). 
 
 1 lemon, or orange. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 Butter size of an egg (melted). 
 
 Soak the tapioca two hours. Then add milk and yolks 
 of the eggs (beaten light), grated lemon peel, sugar, salt 
 and butter. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish, and when 
 cool, spread with a " Meringue," adding to it the lemon- 
 juice. 
 
Desserts. 227 
 
 A "Swell" Pudding. 
 
 r IJ tablespoonfuls rice (washed). 
 \ 1| tablespoonfuls tapioca. 
 
 {14 quarts milk (fresh). 
 1 tablespoonf ul brown sugar, 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 
 A little nutmeg. 
 
 Three hours before dinner put into a large buttered 
 pudding-dish the rice and the tapioca. Stir the sugar and 
 salt into the milk, and pour over it. Let these soak for 
 two hours in a very warm place. Stir them up from the 
 bottom frequently. When well swelled put bits of butter 
 over the top, with a little grated nutmeg, and set in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 Bake slowly for one hour, stirring often during the first 
 fifteen minutes. Eat warm, if you choose, though it is 
 even better cold. 
 
 Rice or tapioca alone may be used, but the quantity of 
 either must be doubled. 
 
 A Plain Rice Pudding or Poor Man's Pudding. 
 
 i cupful raw rice (washed). 
 1 quart milk. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 'i cupful sugar. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 k cupful raisins ; or 
 
 A little orange peel. 
 
 Add the rice to the milk in which the salt and 
 have been dissolved. Add the butter and flavoring, dredge 
 the raisins with flour, and put them in last ; or, omit the 
 raisins, and substitute fivsh orange peel cut into narrow 
 strips. In this case, no other flavoring is needed. Pour 
 into a well-buttered pudding-dish and bake in a slow oven 
 about two hours, stirring occasionally the first few minutes. 
 Serve cold. 
 
228 How to Cook Well 
 
 Rice Pudding. 
 
 f k cupful rice, well washed. 
 I 1 saltspoonf ul salt. 
 I J cupful raisins. 
 L 1 quart milk. 
 
 3 eggs, yolks and whites sepa- 
 rate. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Boil together in a double boiler for one and one half 
 hours, the rice, salt, raisins and milk ; stir occasionally. 
 Then stir in the yolks beaten light, and the sugar and flav- 
 oring. Stir well and pour into a buttered pudding-dish, 
 and bake in a slow oven till firm. 
 
 When cold spread with a "Meringue." Brown deli- 
 cately in a hot oven. Serve cold. 
 
 Rice Custard Pudding. 
 
 3 cupfuls milk. 
 
 1 cupful boiled rice. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 A little nutmeg grated. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 If the rice is cold, soak it a few minutes in the milk ; 
 add the other ingredients, except nutmeg, pour into a but- 
 tered pudding-dish, grate nutmeg over the top, and bake 
 in a hot oven, about half an hour ; till firm. 
 
 Serve cold. The success of this depends upon careful 
 baking. Take instantly from the oven when done, or it 
 will curdle. 
 
 If you like, use only the yolks of the eggs in the pud- 
 ding, and make a " Meringue," with lemon-juice added. 
 
 Hidden Apples or Rice Rock. 
 
 Pile on a platter whole apples stewed or baked without 
 cores or skins. Cover them roughly with boiled rice. 
 Make a " Meringue," and spread over the top as irregularly 
 as possible, to imitate a rock. Brown delicately in a very 
 hot oven and serve warm with cream and sugar, or a 
 boiled custard. 
 
 A good way to use apples and rice " left over." Pre- 
 served fruit may be substituted for apples. 
 
Desserts. 229 
 
 Bird's Rest Pudding. 
 
 Pare and core apples, and lay them in the bottom of a 
 buttered pudding-dish. Pour over them a batter (see 
 " Batter Pudding ") and bake in a moderate oven three 
 quarters of an hour. Serve at once with sauce. 
 
 Scotch Pudding. 
 
 Butter a large deep pudding-dish, and fill with sour ap- 
 ples, choppe'd coarse. Make the following mixture : 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul soda. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 l tablespoonfuls lard. 
 
 Sift all the dry ingredients together, add the milk, and 
 stir in enough more flour to make a very stiff batter. 
 Melt the lard, and beat it in. With a knife, spread the 
 batter over the apples. Bake in a pretty hot oven, for 
 about one hour. Then turn out on a dinner plate, having 
 the apples uppermost. Serve hot with sugar and butter, 
 or with pudding sauce. 
 
 Apple Cottage Pudding. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 ( I cupful flour. 
 
 1 1 teaspoonf ul baking powder. 
 4 or 5 tart apples, sliced. 
 
 i cupful milk. 
 
 Rub the sugar into the butter, add the other ingredients. 
 Have ready the apples in the bottom of a buttered pud- 
 ding-dish. Pour the mixture over ; bake in a quick oven 
 about half an hour and eat warm with sauce. 
 
 Peaches or any other fruit can be used. 
 
 Pan Dowdy (a New England dish). 
 
 This is best made in the fall, of the early sour apples, 
 the skin of which is thin and contains much richness. 
 Quarter and core the apples. Fill a large buttered pud- 
 ding-dish with them, and cover them with a dough made 
 
230 How to Cook Well 
 
 like " Baking Powder Biscuit," rolled as thick as for bis- 
 cuit. (Bread-dough will do.) Butter the edge of the 
 dish lavishly, to prevent the dough from sticking to it. 
 Cut a slit in the middle, and set it in a slow oven. Bake 
 for nearly two hours if the dish is very large. Then take 
 it out, lift off the crust, and mix in a little molasses, brown 
 sugar, and cinnamon, and a lump of butter. Stir up thor- 
 oughly from the bottom. Break the crust into large 
 pieces, and put it into the apple. If the apple is very 
 moist, leave the dish uncovered in the oven for awhile, 
 but if sufficiently dry, cover with a plate and leave it to 
 stand several hours before eating it. 
 
 Serve cold with cream and sugar, for dessert or tea. 
 
 Maryborough Pudding. 
 
 1 pint stewed apple (strained). 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls butter, 
 f 3 or 4 eggs. 
 
 1 1 pint sugar. 
 4 soda crackers (pounded). 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Add the butter to the apple while hot. "When cool, 
 add the eggs and sugar (beaten together), then the 
 crackers, and the juice and grated rind of the lemon. 
 ( Or omit these and use a little nutmeg and cinna- 
 mon. ) Have ready a buttered pudding-dish, thickly 
 strewn with crumbs, so as to adhere to the bottom and 
 sides. Pour in the mixture, and bake about twenty min- 
 utes in a hot oven. Serve cold, with sugar sprinkled over 
 the top. 
 
 Apple Meringue. 
 
 Make like " Marlborough Pudding," reserving the whites 
 of the eggs. With them make a " Meringue " for the top. 
 
 A simpler way is to cover with a meringue a smooth, 
 thick apple-sauce, nicely seasoned. 
 
Desserts. 231 
 
 Brown Betty. 
 
 Cover the bottom and sides of a well-buttered pudding' 
 dish with bread-crumbs. Fill the dish with layers of 
 chopped apple and crumbs, sprinkling each layer with cin- 
 namon, sugar and lumps of butter. Heap the dish high, 
 for the apples will sink. Moisten with a little cold water ; 
 cover with a buttered plate and bake three quarters of an 
 hour, if the dish is large. 
 
 Take off the cover, and brown quickly. Serve warm 
 with " Hard Sauce," or sugar. 
 
 Rhubarb or Apple Charlotte. 
 
 Cut the rhubarb into inch-long pieces ; or, pare, core 
 and slice the apples. Have ready a buttered pudding- 
 dish, lined with thin slices of bread and butter. Put in 
 the fruit sprinkled with sugar, and alternate buttered 
 bread and fruit till the dish is full. Cover with a layer of 
 crumbs, with dots of butter. Cover and bake until done, 
 then uncover and brown quickly. Serve hot with sugar, 
 or " Hard Sauce." 
 
 Berry or Peach Charlotte. 
 
 Make like " Rhubarb or Apple Charlotte." 
 Another Way is, to substitute for slices of bread, 
 bread-crumbs moistened with milk. Lay bits of butter 
 over each layer. Serve cold with cream. Stewed berries 
 or fruit may be used, and if prepared over night, and left 
 standing with a weight on top, no cooking is necessary. 
 
 Cherry Pudding. 
 
 1 pint broken bread or crack- 
 
 ers. 
 
 I quart boiling milk. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 14 cupfuls sugar. 
 3 eggs, beaten light. 
 A little cinnamon. 
 1 quart stoned cherries. 
 
 | teaspoonful salt. 
 
 Soak the bread or crackers in the boiling milk ; while hot 
 
 add the butter, salt and sugar. When cool, stir in the 
 
232 How to Cook 'Well. 
 
 eggs, cinnamon and cherries. Pour into a buttered pud- 
 ding-dish, and bake in a quick oven about three quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 Pineapple Pudding. 
 
 Butter a deep dish, put in alternate layers of broken 
 sponge cake, and thin sliced pineapple, sugared. Have 
 cake on top, moistened slightly with water, and sprinkled 
 with sugar. 
 
 Cover with a buttered plate, and bake slowly one and 
 three quarters hours, removing the cover, and browning 
 quickly the last ten minutes. Canned pineapple may be 
 used. 
 
 Lemon Pudding. 
 
 3 cupfuls water (boiling). 
 1 small potato, grated. 
 5 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 Ik cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten separately. 
 
 \ J cupful cold water. 
 
 Add the potato to the water, and boil fifteen minutes. 
 Then add the flour rubbed smooth, stir well, and boil five 
 minutes longer. Set it off, and dissolve the sugar in it. 
 When cool add the grated rind and juice of the lemons, 
 ,and the yolks of the eggs beaten light. Pour into a but- 
 tered pudding dish, and bake in a moderate oven till 
 firm. 
 
 When cold spread with a " Meringue," and brown deli- 
 cately. For six persons. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pudding. 
 
 1 pound butter. 
 
 1 pound sugar. 
 
 2 pounds sweet potato 
 
 (cooked). 
 
 1 wineglass wine. 
 
 1 table spoonful brandy. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 
 1 cupful cream. 
 
 5 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 Butter a deep pudding-dish. Rub together the butter 
 and sugar till they look creamy. Add the potatoes, and 
 
Desserts. - 233 
 
 beat till well mingled. Then mix in the other ingredients. 
 Pour into a buttered dish, and bake in a hot oven till 
 nicely browned. 
 
 Serve cold, with cream. (See also page 216.) 
 
 Pumpkin Pudding. 
 
 See Pumpkin Pie. 
 Serve cold with cream. 
 
 A Very Delicate Cracker Pudding. 
 
 Butter a pudding-dish, and half-fill it with crackers 
 (Boston crackers are best) split in two and buttered. 
 Sprinkle them lightly with salt ; wore than cover with 
 milk, and soak three hours. Beat two or three eggs with 
 three tablespoonfuls sugar ; add to them as much milk as 
 you think will fill the dish ; also a little wine or flavoring. 
 Pour over the crackers, and add more milk, if the dish is 
 not full. Bake in a rather hot oven. Serve warm with 
 sauce, or cold with cream. 
 
 Cracker milk-toast, left from tea, may be used for this. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding. 
 
 Butter thin slices of bread, and lay in a buttered pud- 
 ding-dish, with currants scattered between each layer. 
 Have ready the following mixture : 
 
 Ik pints hot milk. I A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 J cupful sugar. | 2 to 4 eggs beaten light. 
 
 Pour this over all. Cover and bake sloicly three quar- 
 ters of an hour. Then uncover and brown delicately. 
 Serve cold with cream and sugar, or hot with sauce. 
 
 This good pudding is still better if the slices of bread 
 and butter are also spread with jelly or jam. You may 
 omit the currants, if you like. 
 
234 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Plain Bread Pudding. 
 
 {1 quart milk. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 b cupful sugar. 
 A teaspoonf ul butter. 
 10 tablespooni'uls dry bread-crumbs. 
 1 egg beaten light. 
 
 1 heaping cupful raisins (may be omitted). 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Boil the milk, with the salt and sugar ; while hot, add 
 the butter and bread-crumbs. Cover and soak for ten 
 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the egg, beat 
 well ; stir in the raisins (dredged with flour), and flavoring, 
 and bake in a buttered pudding-dish about one hour, in a 
 slow oven. Serve hot with sauce, or cold with cream, or 
 
 Stale pieces of bread may be used for this ; but do not 
 get in too many. 
 
 Spiced Bread Pudding. 
 
 Make like "Plain Bread Pudding," adding two teaspoon- 
 fuls of cinnamon, half a teaspoonf ul of cloves, and a little 
 nutmeg grated. 
 
 Serve cold with cream, or jelly. 
 
 Squash left from dinner, or a little apple-sauce, mixed 
 with this, makes a pleasant variety. 
 
 Francatelli Pudding. 
 
 2 cupfuls soft bread-crumbs. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 saltspoonful salt. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk a few minutes ; 
 add the salt, half the sugar, and the beaten yolks of the 
 eggs. Grate the rind of the lemon, and add that with the 
 butter melted. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish. Bake 
 
Desserts. 235 
 
 in a hot oven about half an hour. As soon as done remove 
 it, before it becomes watery. Squeeze the lemon, and 
 strain it into the remaining sugar. Stir this into the 
 whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Spread over the pudding 
 a thick layer of jelly, or fresh berries ; then pour on the 
 meringue, and brown in a very hot oven. 
 
 Serve cold with cream. 
 
 Particularly nice with raspberries. 
 
 Pudding of Cold Corn Bread. 
 
 Cold corn bread, left from breakfast, may be used as 
 
 follows : 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 A pinch salt. 
 8 tablespoonf uls corn bread. 
 
 5 teaspoon ful ginger. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 i cupful raisins or currants. 
 
 6 tablespoonf uls molasses. 
 
 Boil the milk a few minutes with the salt and corn- 
 bread crumbled fine. Then remove. Add the molasses 
 and ginger, and when cool, the egg and raisins (dredged 
 with flour). Bake in a slow oven. 
 
 Serve hot, with sauce (lemon or some tart kind is best), 
 or butter. 
 
 Indian Pudding. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 4 table spoonfuls corn-meal. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 A little salt. 
 
 Boil one pint of the milk. Sift the meal into it gradu- 
 ally and boil a few minutes. Take it off the fire, and add 
 the molasses and salt. Stir well. Add the rest of the 
 milk, and do not stir the mixture after that is put in. 
 Bake 4n a buttered pudding-dish two and one half hours 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 Serve hot, with or without sauce. 
 
236 How to Cook Well 
 
 PUDDINGS WITH FLOUR. 
 Cream Batter Pudding. 
 
 f 1 cupful sour cream. 
 1 1 cupful flour. 
 
 1 cupful sweet milk. 
 
 | teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 Mix in order, beating the eggs light ; bake in a quick 
 oven, for twenty minutes, without opening the oven door. 
 Serve as soon as done, with sauce. 
 
 Batter or Love Pudding. 
 
 1 pint milk. I 1 saltspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cupful flour. I 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 Beat all well together. Pour into a hot buttered dish, 
 and bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Serve 
 with sauce as soon as done, or it will fall. 
 
 For four persons. 
 
 Cream Puffs. 
 
 c pint boiling water. I ^ pound flour. 
 
 \ % pound butter. I 4 eggs, beaten separately. 
 
 Boil the butter and water together a few minutes. 
 Then pour it boiling hot upon the flour. Stir fast until 
 smooth. 
 
 When cool add the eggs. Drop with a spoon, several 
 inches apart, upon buttered papers. Bake in a quick oven 
 twenty minutes, without opening the oven door. Do not 
 jar the pan. When cold split and fill with custard. 
 (See Cream Pie, below.) 
 
 Dessert Puffs or Vanities. 
 
 1 quart milk. I A little salt. 
 
 1| quarts flour. I 4 eggs. 
 
 Mix the flour with the milk till no lumps are left. Add 
 salt. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately 
 
Desserts. 237 
 
 and add them in turn. Beat the batter very light, using 
 a Dover egg-beater if you have one. Pour into hot 
 gem-pans, fill half-full, and bake in a very hot oven 
 about fifteen minutes. Eat as soon as done, with hot 
 sauce. 
 
 These are favorites with gentlemen. 
 
 Makes two dozen Puffs. 
 
 German Puffs. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 3 cupf uls flour. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 
 
 of a nutmeg (grated). 
 
 Beat eggs and sugar together. Add the milk, then the 
 flour, with the baking-powder rubbed through the last 
 cupful, before mixing with the rest. Put in the nutmeg, 
 and beat hard. 
 
 Butter deep earthen cups or round gem-pans. Fill 
 half full, and bake in a rather quick oven, about twenty- 
 five minutes. 
 
 Eat very hot, with liquid sauce. 
 
 N. B. Sour milk may be substituted for sweet, in 
 which case omit the baking-powder and use one teaspoon- 
 ful of soda. 
 
 Makes one dozen. 
 
 Bice Puffs, 
 
 i cupful cold boiled rice. 
 1 cupful milk. 
 i pint flour. 
 
 i teaspoonful salt. 
 
 i tablespoonful butter (melted). 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 Mix and beat hard. Fill hot gem-pans full, and bake 
 in a hot oven about half an hour. Serve hot with liquid 
 sauce. 
 
 Makes one dozen. 
 
238 How to Cook Well 
 
 Cream Pie. 
 
 Bake either "Quick" or "Cheap Sponge Cake," or 
 " Feather Cake " in jelly cake tins. When cold, spread 
 thickly with the following cream : 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 {2 to 4 eggs. 
 2 cupfuls sugar (less will do). 
 1 cupful flour, or cornstarch. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Scald the milk ; beat the eggs, sugar and flour together 
 and stir into the milk while boiling, until it thickens so as 
 not to run. When cool, flavor. 
 
 Enough cream for four pies. 
 
 Washington Pie. 
 
 Mix "Washington Cake," or "Jelly Cake Without 
 Eggs," and bake in pie-plates, in a rather hot oven, about 
 fifteen minutes. When done, lay one loaf bottom side up 
 on a warm plate ; spread it with jam, jelly, or any " Fill- 
 ing " that you choose, and lay the other loaf on top, bot- 
 tom side down. When cold, sift powdered sugar over the 
 top. Serve fresh for dessert. 
 
 This is the regulation Sunday dessert in most New Eng- 
 land families. 
 
 Caramel Loaf. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten separately. 
 1 cupful sugar, 
 li cupfuls flour. 
 
 f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 \ i teaspoonf ul soda. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar. To the 
 beaten whites, add one cup of the flour, a little at a time, 
 beating well. Add this to the yolks and beat in the rest 
 
Desserts. 239 
 
 of the flour, lightly. Dissolve the cream of tartar and 
 soda in a little hot water and stir in. Bake in a rather 
 quick oven in one round loaf. 
 
 When perfectly cold, split the cake, so as to make three 
 layers, and spread thickly with the following mixture, also 
 cold : 
 
 f 1 pint milk. 
 \ 1 table spoonful sugar, 
 f li tahlespoonfuls cornstarch. 
 I 4 cupful cold milk. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Scald the milk with the sugar ; rub the cornstarch in 
 the cold milk, and stir it into that which is boiling. 
 
 Let it boil till thick enough not to run. When cool, 
 flavor. After spreading upon the cake pile up the layers, 
 and frost the top with the following mixture, boiled, until 
 it will harden when thrown into cold water : 
 
 i cupful grated chocolate. 1 1 tablespoonf ul cold water. 
 
 1 cupful brown sugar. 
 
 Cottage Pudding. 
 
 j 1 cupful sugar. 
 \ 2 tablespoonf uls melted butter. 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 )1 cupful milk. 
 h teaspoonf ul salt. 
 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved, 
 f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 
 1 2 cupf uls flour. 
 
 Mix in order, and bake in a moderate oven about half 
 an hour. Serve hot with sauce. Makes one loaf. 
 
 Sour milk may be used by omitting the cream of tartar. 
 
 Currants may be added. It is still a good pudding if 
 only half a cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of but- 
 ter are used. 
 
240 How to CooTc Well. 
 
 Cottage Pudding Richer, or Gold Pudding. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 . cupful butter. 
 3 eggs, yolks only. 
 1 cupful milk. 
 i teaspoonf ul soda. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 
 2 cupf uls flour. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar ; mix in the other ingredi- 
 ents ; beat well and bake in a moderate oven about half an 
 hour. 
 
 Serve hot with sauce. 
 
 For a family of seven. (This is convenient for a small 
 family, as what is left makes a nice cake, which if frosted 
 will not be recognized as the remains of pudding.) 
 
 Prince of Wales Pudding, 
 
 f 3 tablespoonf uls butter. 
 1 4 tablespoonf uls sugar. 
 4 eggs. 
 
 {6 table spoonfuls flour. 
 1 teaspoonful soda, dry. 
 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar. Beat the yolks and 
 whites separately, and add them ; then the flour with the 
 soda and cream of tartar sifted in it ; put into a buttered 
 pndding-dish, and bake about half an hour in a quick 
 oven. 
 
 Serve with sauce. 
 
 Gingerbread Pudding. 
 
 cupful bu 
 
 cupful boiling water. 
 
 f 2 cupf uls molasses. f h cupful butter. 
 
 1 1 teaspoonf uls soda. i 1 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul ginger. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 In the molasses dissolve the soda ; add the other ingre- 
 dients in order. Beat hard and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Serve hot with "Sour Cream Sauce," or "Lemon 
 Sauce." 
 
Desserts. 241 
 
 Honeycomb Pudding. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 cupful brown sugar. 
 f Butter size of a walnut, 
 j -i cupful milk. 
 
 3 eggs, beaten separately. 
 k cupful flour. 
 A little mace and cloves. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 1 1 teaspoonf ul baking-powder. 
 
 Mix well the molasses and sugar. Melt the butter and 
 mix that and the baking-powder with the milk. Then 
 pour it into the molasses. Add the yolks of the eggs, 
 flour, spice and salt. Lastly stir in the whites. Beat 
 well. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake one 
 hour in a moderate oven. Serve hot with sauce. 
 
 Virginia Pudding. 
 c 1 cupful sugar. 
 \ I cupful butter. 
 4 eggs, beaten light. 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 ( 2 cupf uls flour. 
 \ 2 teaspoonf uls baking-powder. 
 
 Mix in order, and bake in a moderate oven about one 
 hour. 
 
 Serve hot with " Hard Sauce." 
 
 Baked Graham Pudding. 
 ' 1 cupful wheat flour. 
 1 cupful Graham flour, 
 i teaspoonf ul salt, 
 i cupful raisins (seeded). 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 / li cupful sour milk. 
 
 1 1 teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 
 Butter size of an egg (melted). 
 1 lemon, juice and rind. 
 
 Mix in this order, adding a little ginger if you like. 
 Beat hard. Pour into a scalloped cake-pan, and bake half 
 an hour in a moderate oven. Turn out on a large plate, 
 and eat hot with Lemon or Vinegar Sauce. 
 
242 How to Cook Well. *.. 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 To Boil Puddings. 
 
 When you are going to prepare a pudding, have a ket- 
 tle full of boiling water ready to put it in at once ; also a 
 tea-kettle of boiling water to replenish with. Wring the 
 pudding-cloth out of water as hot as you can bear it ; flour 
 it well ; pour the pudding into it, and tie tightly with a 
 piece of twine, leaving room for the pudding to swell if it 
 is one which will rise. Open the ends of the bag, and flour 
 all the opening, so that the bag will be sealed, and the 
 water will not penetrate the pudding. 
 
 Have a plate in the bottom of the kettle, so that the 
 pudding will not come too close to the fire. During the 
 first half-hour turn the pudding every five minutes to pre- 
 vent the fruit from settling in one place. The water must 
 not stop boiling for one instant. 
 
 Replenish the fire, if it should be necessary, with a few 
 pieces of coal at a time, so as not to cool it for a moment. 
 The success of the pudding depends greatly upon contin- 
 uous boiling. 
 
 N. B. Before boiling a pudding try to secure a fire that 
 will last several hours. 
 
 If a pudding-boiler or mould is used, butter both it and 
 the cover well, and have the water in the kettle come only 
 about two thirds to the top. The water should not boil 
 hard, and for all boiled puddings keep the pot covered 
 close, to keep in the steam. 
 
 You can boil a pudding in either a cloth, a mould, or a 
 bowl, whichever is preferred. 
 
 When the pudding is done, take it from the pot and 
 plunge instantly into cold water, then turn it out upon the 
 dish, which should be made hot. 
 
 Be particular to warm the knife before cutting the pud- 
 ding. 
 
Desserts. 243 
 
 To Warm a Boiled Pudding. 
 
 Plunge it into cold water for a moment. Then set in a 
 hot oven for about twenty minutes. Or put it in a col- 
 ander without wetting, cover tight, and set it over the 
 steam of the tea-kettle for half an hour. 
 
 Hasting's or Suet Pudding. 
 
 1 cupful suet, chopped fine. 
 1 cupful raisins, stoned. 
 3 cupfuls bread-crumbs. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 teaspoonf ul mace. 
 
 4 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 
 3 teaspoonfuls powdered 
 
 cloves. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul salt. 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 cupful milk. 
 
 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 Mix in order. Put into a buttered pudding-boiler, leav- 
 ing room to swell. Cover tight, and boil three hours with- 
 out stopping. If you make half the quantity boil two 
 hours only. Serve hot with " Wine Sauce." 
 
 This pudding is preferred by many to Plum Pudding. 
 It keeps well for a long time, and it is a good way to use 
 up bread-crumbs. It can be made without crumbs by us- 
 ing four cupfuls flour. 
 
 Plum Pudding. 
 
 1 pound bread-crumbs 
 
 (grated}. 
 
 1 pound minced suet. 
 1 pound brown sugar. 
 1 pound currants (washed and 
 dried). 
 
 2 pounds raisins, stoned. 
 
 1 nutmeg, grated. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 i cupful brandy. 
 
 8 eggs, beaten separately. 
 
 Mix in order. Do not add the eggs till ready to boil 
 the pudding. Wet a muslin cloth in hot water, and flour 
 it well. Tie the pudding in it very tight, making no 
 allowance for swelling. Plunge into boiling water, and 
 boil eight hours without stopping. 
 
 Serve hot with " Wine Sauce." 
 
244 
 
 How to Cook Well. . 
 
 English Plum Pudding. 
 
 pounds fine bread-crumbs. 
 
 pound minced suet. 
 
 pound raisins, stoned and 
 
 chopped. 
 pound currants, washed and 
 
 dried. 
 
 pound brown sugar. 
 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls grated nutmeg. 
 1 teaspoonf ul cloves. 
 8 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 cupful brandy. 
 cupful wine. 
 
 2 oz. citron (if you like) , sliced 
 
 thin. 
 
 Mix all together, and boil seven or eight hours in a close 
 tin pudding-boiler buttered. It is well to mix it the day 
 before, omitting the eggs, which should not be put in until 
 ready to boil it. Keep it in a close covered vessel over 
 night. Serve hot, with Brandy or Wine Sauce. 
 
 Paradise Pudding. 
 
 i pound bread-crumbs. 3 apples (minced). 
 
 A little salt. h. a lemon. 
 
 A little grated nutmeg. 1 cupful currants. 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 Mix all together, using both the juice and grated rind of 
 the lemon, and having the currants dredged with a little 
 flour. Boil one and one half hours. Serve hot with 
 
 sauce. 
 
 Amber Pudding. 
 
 2 eggs, well beaten. 
 4 table spoonfuls orange marma- 
 lade. 
 
 ^ pound bread-crumbs. 
 | pound sugar. 
 
 3 oz. butter, melted. 
 
 Stir all together ; boil in a buttered mould two hours. 
 
 Victoria Pudding. 
 
 Butter, the weight of the eggs. 1 teaspoonful soda, dry. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Flour, the weight of the eggs. 
 
 4 eggs, beaten light. 4 tablespoonf ills jam, any kind. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar, and add the eggs ; sift the 
 soda through the flour; add the jam, and steam in a but- 
 tered mould two hours. Serve with hot sauce. 
 
Desserts. 245 
 
 Boiled Indian Pudding. 
 
 1 pint molasses (warm). 
 1 pint milk. 
 4 eggs (beaten light). 
 1 pound suet (minced). 
 
 Corn meal enough to make a 
 
 thick batter. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful cinnamon. 
 4 teaspoonf ul nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Mix together, and beat well. Pour into a buttered pud- 
 ding-boiler, fill not more than two thirds full. Boil three 
 hours. Serve hot with Vinegar or Sour Cream Sauce. 
 
 One cupful dried currants, dredged with flour and 
 stirred in last, is an improvement. 
 
 Dundee Pudding. 
 
 f 1 cupful sugar. 
 I i cupful butter. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten light, 
 f 1 cupful milk. 
 I i teaspoonf ul soda, 
 f 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 1 2 cupf uls flour. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar. Mix in order and boil 
 three hours, leaving room to swell. Then turn out and 
 serve hot with sauce. Sour milk may be used, and the 
 cream of tartar omitted. 
 
 Huckleberry Pudding. 
 
 ( 1 cupful sugar, 
 t i cupful butter. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 ( 1 pint milk. 
 \ 1 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 r 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 
 Flour to make a stiff batter. 
 A little salt. 
 1 pint huckleberries. 
 
 Mix in order ; put into a buttered pudding-boiler, leav- 
 ing room for it to swell, and boil two hours. 
 Serve hot with sauce. 
 
246 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Fig Pudding. 
 
 cupfuls flour and bread- 
 crumbs, mixed, 
 nutmeg grated, 
 cupful dried figs, chopped. 
 
 1 cupful suet. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 c 1 cupful milk. 
 \ 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 Mix in order, and steam two hours. Serve hot with 
 "Wine Sauce." 
 
 Manchester Pudding. 
 
 1 pint milk (very hot). 
 6 oz. sugar. 
 
 2 oz. butter. 
 
 3 eggs, well-beaten. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 2 cupfuls jam. 
 
 | pound bread-crumbs. 
 
 To the milk add sugar and butter, and pour it on the 
 bread-crumbs. When a little cool, stir in the eggs and 
 flavoring. Put the jam into the bottom of a buttered 
 mould. (Raspberry jam is nicest, though any kind will 
 do.) Pour in the batter, steam two hours and serve hot 
 with sauce. 
 
 Boiled Graham Pudding. 
 
 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cupful raisins (chopped) . 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Mix all together, and do not add more flour, though the 
 batter may look thin. Put into the pudding-pail, leaving 
 room for it to rise. Boil three hours without stopping. 
 
 Serve hot, with sauce. 
 
 Boiled Pudding, 
 
 Take one quart light bread-dough. Roll it out nearly 
 half an inch thick. Spread with apple, cranberry or 
 peach sauce. Roll it up. Lay it in a pudding-bag wet 
 and floured. Tie it tight, but leave room inside for the 
 pudding to swell. Boil two hours without stopping. 
 
 Serve hot, with sauce. 
 
 Or make a " Potato Crust " ; spread it an inch thick with 
 
Desserts. 247 
 
 " Cranberry Sauce," or any kind of stewed fruit which is 
 not very juicy. Roll it in a floured cloth, previously wet, 
 and tie it close at the ends as it will not rise. Boil for 
 two hours without stopping. 
 Serve hot, with pudding sauce. 
 
 Apple Dumpling. 
 
 Make " Potato Crust," roll it out one third of an inch 
 thick in the middle, but roll the edges thin, to avoid thick 
 folds of paste. Wring a thick square cloth in hot water; 
 sprinkle it with flour and lay it in a deep dish. Put in it 
 the crust and fill it with sliced apples. Draw the paste 
 together and tie the cloth tightly round it with a strong 
 string. Allow no room for it to swell, and draw the string 
 tight enough to prevent the water from soaking in. Boil 
 a dumpling holding three pints of apple two hours. Then 
 plunge it for a moment into cold water ; untie and turn 
 it out on a platter. 
 
 Serve hot with sauce. 
 
 Light Dough Dumplings. 
 
 Make very light bread-dough into small balls the size of 
 eggs. Have ready a pot of water, boiling fast. Drop in 
 the dumplings, taking care to have the water more than 
 cover them. Cover the pot, and boil for twenty minutes 
 steadily, without lifting the cover. If it stops boiling for 
 a moment, the dumplings will be heavy. 
 
 Serve hot with butter and sugar, for dessert. 
 
 Dumplings for Meat. 
 
 Made like the above, except that you boil the dumplings 
 in the pot with boiling beef. 
 
 Serve them around the edge of the platter in which you 
 dish the meat. 
 
248 How to Cook Well . 
 
 PUDDING SAUCES. 
 
 Hard Sauce. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. I Nutmeg. 
 
 cupful butter. 
 
 Rub the butter and sugar till creamy. Put into a glass 
 dish, smooth the top with a knife, grate over it a little 
 nutmeg, and set on ice. 
 
 This can be varied in several ways. You may cover 
 it with grated lemon or orange peel ; in this case put 
 the juice of the lemon or orange through the sauce, adding 
 more sugar. Or, divide the sauce into halves, coloring 
 one by beating through it a large lump of bright-colored 
 jelly. Arrange the white as a mound in the centre, 
 making a circle of the pink around it ; and help some of 
 each to each person. You can color sauce yellow by mix- 
 ing through it the juice of an orange which has been 
 squeezed with the peel through a cloth. 
 Brandy Sauce. 
 
 Make like " Hard Sauce," and after rubbing the butter 
 and sugar to a cream, "mix in nearly a wineglassfull of 
 brandy. One quarter of a cupful of wine may be substi- 
 tuted for the brandy. 
 
 Liquid Sauce (plain). 
 
 cupful butter, 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 li pints boiling water. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 
 Put all together (except the water) in a bowl, set into a 
 kettle of boiling water. When the butter softens, rub 
 into it the flour and sugar. Add the water and flavoring 
 just before serving. 
 
 Creamy Sauce. 
 
 h cupful butter. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 ^ cupful cream (or milk). 
 4 tablespoonf uls wine. 
 
 Put all together in a bowl, set in a pan of boiling water, 
 over the fire. Stir till it thickens and is frothy. 
 
Desserts. 249 
 
 Rich Pudding Sauce. 
 
 1 cupful fine sugar. 
 
 i cupful butter (cscant). 
 
 1 egg (white only). 
 
 Grated rind of J of a lemon. 
 A little nutmeg (grated). 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 1 wineglassf ul wine. 
 
 Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the egg, 
 beaten light. Put in the other things and mix all to- 
 gether. 
 
 Set the bowl over the steam of the tea-kettle till boiling 
 hot. Leave it for a few minutes, stirring it most of the 
 time. If too thick put in a tablespoonf ul of boiling water. 
 
 Lemon Sauce. 
 
 2 cupfuls boiling water. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 1 email tablcspoonful butter. 
 
 U tablespoonf uls cornstarch. 
 
 Have the water on the stove. Boil the sugar in the 
 water five minutes. Rub the cornstarch smooth in a very 
 little cold water. Add that, and boil all together for ten 
 minutes. Then put in the lemon and butter. Stir till the 
 butter is melted, and serve at once. 
 
 Aglaia Sauce. 
 
 4 table spoonfuls sugar. 
 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 
 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 1 egg (white only), 
 i cupful boiling water. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Beat the sugar, butter and flour to a cream. Add the 
 white of the egg (well beaten), and the boiling water. 
 Flavor. Set within a kettle of boiling water to keep hot 
 till time to serve. 
 
 Molasses Sauce. 
 
 Boil one cupful of molasses with a large tablespoon ful 
 of butter, and one tablespoonf ul of mixed spices; serve hot. 
 To be used for Apple Fritters, Dumplings, etc. 
 
250 How to Cook Well- 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 h cupful sugar. 
 
 Custard Sauce. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 
 Put the milk to boil in a pail set within one of boiling 
 water. Beat eggs, sugar, and vanilla together. When 
 the milk boils, pour it over the mixture. Return all to 
 the fire, and boil a moment. 
 
 Jelly Sauce. 
 
 | cupful boiling water. 
 3 teaspoonfuls cornstarch. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 h cupful jelly. 
 
 Into the boiling water, stir the cornstarch (previously 
 wet to a paste with a very little cold water). When it 
 thickens add the butter. Remove from the fire. When 
 a little cooled, beat in slowly the jelly. (Currant, cran- 
 berry, or barberry are best.) Return to the fire to be- 
 come very hot, but not boil. 
 
 Wine Sauce. (No. 1.) 
 
 1 cupful sugar. I f cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter. I cupful currant wine. 
 
 Put the butter and sugar into a sauce-pan to melt. 
 Pour over them the boiling water. When ready to serve, 
 beat up, and add the wine. Serve hot. 
 
 No. 2. f h pound butter. 1 egg (yolk only). 
 
 pound sugar 
 (brown). 
 
 h cupful wine. 
 A little nutmeg. 
 
 Rub the butter and sugar together. Add the yolk of 
 the egg, beaten. Stir over the fire (setting the bowl within 
 boiling water) till it thickens. Before serving, add the 
 wine and grate in a little nutmeg. 
 
 A very rich sauce. 
 
Desserts. 251 
 
 Vanilla Sauce. 
 
 f 1 pint milk. I i table spoonful cornstarch. 
 
 1 3 tablespoonf uls sugar. | i teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Put the milk and sugar to boil. Add the cornstarch 
 (rubbed to a paste in a little cold milk) when boiling 
 well. Stir till it thickens. Add the vanilla and serve. 
 
 (Good with Apple Puddings.) 
 
 Sally's Vinegar Sauce. 
 U cupfuls brown sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls butter. 
 
 tablespoonf uls vinegar 
 
 (nearly), 
 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul lemon extract. 
 
 1 cupful flour (more or less). 
 
 2 cupfuls boiling water. 
 
 Put all together except the water in a bowl, and set in 
 a kettle of boiling water. Mix all together till smooth ; 
 when ready to serve add the water, and if not thick 
 enough mix in a little more flour, previously rubbed to a 
 pnste in cold water. Let all boil together for a moment. 
 
 N. B. If the vinegar is very strong use part water. 
 Nice for Gingerbread Pudding. 
 
 Syrup Sauce. 
 
 Take any syrup left from preserves or canned fruit. 
 Bring it to a boil, and thicken it a little by stirring in a 
 tablespoonful cornstarch (rubbed to a paste in cold water), 
 to each one and one half cupfuls of juice. Boil up a mo- 
 ment till of the consistency of cream. 
 
 A delicious sauce for almost anything. (The cores and 
 parings of rich tart apples boiled down and strained, with 
 sugar and cornstarch afterwards added, makes a very fair 
 Syrup Sauce.) 
 
 Yellow Sauce. 
 
 f 2 eggs. 1 1 orange, or a glass of wine. 
 
 1 2i cupfuls white sugar. 
 
 Beat the eggs and sugar together, till very light. Add 
 the juice of the orange (or the wine), and half the rind, 
 grated. Serve cold. 
 
 For Cottage Pudding, etc. 
 
252 How to CooJc Well: 
 
 German Sauce. 
 
 2 eggs (whites only). 
 
 1 lemon (juice only). 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Beat the eggs light. Then add a little sugar and the 
 lemon-juice. Thicken with sugar, enough only to make it 
 a little stiff. 
 
 Pour over and around Baked or Coddled Apples, 
 Quinces or Pears ; or serve with Berry Puddings. 
 
 Sour Cream Sauce. 
 
 This is simply rich sour cream, beaten and thickened 
 with a great deal of white sugar. 
 
 Good with Corn-meal Puddings ; and still better with 
 Gingerbread Pudding, the contrast in color adding to its 
 attractiveness. 
 
 N. B. The cream must not be old, or it will be bitter. 
 
 DELICACIES FOR DESSERT. 
 
 EEMAEKS. 
 
 In making custard or anything for which boiled milk is 
 necessary, use a double-boiler, so as not to scorch the milk. 
 If you have none, set the sauce-pan within a pan of boiling 
 water. Anything containing lemon-juice or vinegar should 
 be cooked in a bowl or in granite ware, as tin has an un- 
 pleasant effect upon acids. In adding eggs to boiling 
 milk or water, pour a good deal (if not all) of the hot 
 milk on them, stirring fast, before putting all together 
 over the fire. If you put the cold egg into the hot milk, 
 without first equalizing the temperature, it will be almost 
 sure to curdle. Leave the mixture on the stove only a 
 moment after the egg is in, and stir all the time. If these 
 directions are followed, and on taking it from the fire 
 a custard is poured at once into a cold vessel, it will be 
 
Desserts. 253 
 
 impossible to meet with failure. Do not flavor till you 
 have taken the custard from the fire. 
 
 Blanc Mange is improved by being set on ice. At all 
 events, keep it in the coldest place you can find till ready to 
 serve it. Then wring out a cloth in hot water and hold 
 around the outside of the mould for a moment; it will 
 then turn out easily and in good shape. 
 
 When gelatine is used, soak it (unless otherwise di- 
 rected), in a warm place for two hours, allowing half a 
 cupful cold water to each half box of gelatine ; then pour 
 on it a half-cupful of boiling water, arid dissolve it. 
 
 The best way to strain jellies, etc., is through a coarse 
 napkin laid over a sieve. 
 
 FLAVORINGS FOR CUSTARDS, ETC. 
 
 Zest. 
 
 Rub lumps of white sugar over the peel of a lemon, 
 and melt them in custard. This is a most delicate way of 
 getting the flavor of lemon-peel. 
 
 Burnt Sugar Flavoring. 
 
 Put one tablespoonful brown sugar into a pan ; stir it till 
 it becomes dark as taffy. Add,one cupful of boiling water ; 
 let it stand a minute. Use enough of it to give a good flavor 
 and bottle the rest for use another time. 
 
 Syrup Flavoring. 
 
 The syrup of quince, peach and other preserves, makes 
 delicious flavoring for custard. A little jelly dissolved in 
 custard also gives an agreeable flavor. 
 "Wine Jelly. 
 
 j i box Cox's gelatine. 
 \ 1 cupful cold water. 
 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 I pint Sicily Madeira wine. 
 
 1 large lemon, sliced, 
 li cupfuls sugar. 
 3 inches stick cinnamon, 
 broken fine. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Have ready in a por- 
 celain sauce-pan the other ingredients, the seeds being re- 
 
254 How to Cook Well. 
 
 moved from the lemon. Pour the gelatine upon them, 
 and set it on the fire. Do not let it boil, but when it be- 
 gins to bubble slightly on the edges, take it off, and strain. 
 Pour into a deep dish, with a flat square bottom, if possi- 
 ble. When cold and firm, cut into large squares or blocks, 
 and pile in a glass dish. 
 
 These directions, if carefully and exactly followed, will 
 make a handsome, clear jelly, very delicate and well-fla- 
 vored. 
 
 " The best I ever tried," said the friend who gave it to 
 me. 
 
 Wine Jelly, Without Boiling. 
 
 1 package Cox's gelatine. 
 1 pint cold water. 
 3 lemons. 
 
 1 quart boiling water. 
 1 pint wine. 
 l pounds sugar. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the water for two hours, with the 
 juice of the lemons, and the rinds pared very thin. Then 
 strain out the lemon rind, mix with the boiling water, and 
 add the wine and sugar. When the sugar is dissolved 
 strain, and pour it into wet blanc-mange moulds, and set 
 it away to harden. 
 
 Claret Jelly. 
 
 box Cox's gelatine, 
 cupful cold water, 
 cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 lemon (juice only). 
 1 pint claret. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When slightly cooled, 
 add the lemon-juice, claret and sugar. Stir till the latter 
 is dissolved. Strain, and pour into wet moulds to stiffen. 
 
 Nice for invalids. 
 
 Cider Jelly. 
 
 1 box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 pint cold water. 
 1 pint boiling water. 
 
 2 pounds sugar. 
 
 3 lemons (juice only). 
 
 1 pint champagne cider. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Then add the sugar 
 and dissolve it. Let it cool a little. Then stir in the 
 
Desserts. 255 
 
 lemon-juice and cider. Strain, and pour into wet moulds. 
 This is a delicious jelly, and is much relished by inva- 
 lids who cannot take wine. 
 
 Wine and Orange Jelly. 
 
 box Cox's gelatine, 
 cupful cold water, 
 cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 lejnon (juice only). 
 
 1 large wineglass Sherry wine. 
 
 1 heaping cupful sugar. 
 
 2 oranges (juice only). 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When slightly cool add 
 the orange and lemon-juice and the wine. Put in the 
 sugar, and stir till dissolved. Pour into wet moulds, and 
 leave it to stiffen. 
 
 A pretty way to serve it is to break it into pieces, and 
 spread them over a glass platter. This makes a very 
 sparkling dish. 
 
 Orange Jelly. 
 
 1 oz. isinglass. 
 1 cupful water. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 Sugar to taste. 
 
 8 sweet oranges. 
 
 Soak the isinglass in the water till it is dissolved. Rub 
 the peel of four oranges on several lumps of sugar. Dis- 
 solve these in the juice of the eight oranges and the lemon. 
 Mix this with the isinglass, and sweeten to taste. Strain, 
 and pour the mixture into wet moulds. 
 
 Orange Baskets, with Jelly. 
 
 i box gelatine, 
 i cupful cold water. 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 1 pint orange- juice. 
 
 1 large lemon. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 "Whipped Cream" (may be 
 omitted). 
 
 Before you cut the oranges (eight usually make one pint 
 of juice) mark with a pen-knife two lines, over one half, 
 for a handle ; then mark on each side, a line between the 
 two ends of the handle. Remove the peel between these 
 marks. This will leave the peel shaped like a basket. 
 
256 How to Cootc Well. 
 
 Take out the pulp carefully. Put it into a bag with the 
 cut-off rind and the lemon sliced. Squeeze, adding more 
 oranges if necessary to make a pint of juice. Dissolve 
 the sugar in the juice. Do all this while the gelatine is 
 soaking on the stove where it will not boil. It may be 
 left for half or three quarters of an hour. Then dissolve it 
 in the boiling water. Pour it upon the juice and sugar. 
 Strain it, and pour it into wet dishes to stiffen. When 
 firm, and just before serving, break it into rough pieces 
 and fill the baskets high. 
 
 If you wish to make them look very attractive, heap 
 " Whipped Cream " on the jelly. In either case, set the 
 baskets on a platter covered with leaves or flowers; or 
 prettier still, bunches of grapes. 
 
 Beautiful for a company supper-table. 
 
 Lemon Jelly. 
 
 k box Cox's gelatine, 
 i cupful cold water. 
 
 2 large lemons (juice only). 
 1 large cupful sugar. 
 
 I cupful boiling water. 1 1 pint cold water. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When a little cool, add 
 the juice of the lemons, sugar and the pint of cold water. 
 Stir till the sugar is dissolved. Strain it and pour into 
 wet moulds. 
 
 Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. 
 
 / cupful sea moss. 1 1 large lemon (juice only). 
 
 I 1 quart water (nearly). I Sugar to taste. 
 
 Soak the sea moss in the water for half an hour. Then 
 put it on to boil for twenty minutes, without adding more 
 water. (Notice the time when it begins to boil.) Strain 
 it through a cloth laid over a sieve, without squeezing it 
 at all. Add the lemon-juice, sweeten it, and pour into wet 
 moulds. It will become stiff as soon as cold. 
 
 Very delicate, and much relished by invalids. 
 
Desserts. 257 
 
 Snow Pudding. 
 
 k box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 cupful cold water. 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 large lemon (juice only). 
 
 14 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 4 eggs (whites only). 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the lemon-juice 
 and the sugar. Strain into a large dish and set in a cold 
 place. Leave it till it beyins to set, but not till very stiff 
 (it will probably take an hour). Have ready the whites 
 of the eggs beaten stiff. Beat them well into the jelly a 
 spoonful at a time ; fifteen or twenty minutes will not be 
 too long to beat it. Put it in wet moulds tillstiff. Then 
 turn out on a platter, and pour over it the following cus- 
 tard, when cold. Or serve the moulds by themselves, and 
 serve the custard in a glass pitcher. 
 
 (Makes two moulds.) 
 
 Custard. 
 
 I quart boiling milk, 
 f 4 eggs (yolks only). 
 \ J cupful sugar. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Make like " Boiled Custard." 
 A very ornamental dish. 
 
 Orange Snow. 
 
 1 box Cox's gelatine. 
 
 2 rinds of oranges. 
 1 cupful cold water. 
 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 4 oranges (juice only). 
 2 cupfuls white sugar. 
 4 eggs (whites only). 
 
 Cut the rinds into thin slips and soak with the gelatine. 
 Then dissolve in the boiling water, and strain. Stir in the 
 juice of the oranges with the sugar until dissolved. Add 
 the whites of the eggs (beaten very stiff). Beat all well 
 together till it looks like snow, and is stiff. 
 
 While the gelatine is soaking, make the following cus- 
 
258 How to Cook Well. 
 
 tard. Pour it into a glass dish, and when cold heap the 
 
 beaten snow on top. 
 
 Custard. 
 
 1 pint milk. I cupful sugar. 
 
 4 eggs (yolks only). | 
 
 It is an improvement to soak thin slices of sponge-cake 
 in wine, and put them in the bottom of the dish, pouring 
 the custard over. 
 
 Fruit Jelly. 
 (An Ornamental Dish to Serve with Meats.) 
 
 Make " Lemon Jelly." Put a little in a wet mould, and 
 set the rest in a pan of hot water to keep it liquid. When 
 that in the mould begins to stiffen lay in a few strawber- 
 ries with the hulls on, a few cherries in bunches with the 
 stems, and anything else you like. Pour in more jelly, and 
 proceed as before. Set away to become firm. 
 
 Jelly with Bananas. 
 
 Make "Lemon or Wine Jelly," and proceed as above, 
 using only bananas cut around in slices. Serve for dessert. 
 
 Coffee Jelly. 
 
 { 
 
 box Cox's gelatine, 
 cupful cold water. 
 
 1 quart strong, clear coffee. 
 Sugar to taste. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water. Make a quart of 
 strong coffee, and strain it. Make it very sweet. Set it 
 on the fire, to become boiling hot ; then pour it at once on 
 the gelatine. Put it into wet moulds to stiffen, and then 
 turn out. 
 
 Another way is, to pour it into a square pan, and when 
 stiff, cut it into cubes an inch square, and heap in a glass 
 dish. This is a very pretty way to serve it with ice-cream, 
 and makes a dainty dessert, served with cream alone. 
 
 If for an invalid, do not make the coffee very strong. 
 
Desserts. 259 
 
 Coffee Cream. 
 
 oz. Cox's gelatine, 
 cupful cold water. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 cupful cream (milk will do). 
 
 4 cupful strong, hot coffee. 
 
 Soak the gelatine ; then pour over it the coffee (well 
 cleared), and dissolve the sugar in it. When a little cool, 
 stir in the cream. Strain, and pour into wet moulds. It 
 will take twelve hours to stiffen. Makes one large mould. 
 
 Mont Blanc. 
 
 box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla (or a few 
 drops rose extract). 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in half a cupful of the milk for fifteen 
 minutes. Put the rest on the stove in a double boiler ; 
 and when scalding hot, dissolve the gelatine and the sugar 
 in it. Remove from the fire, and when partly cool, stir in 
 the flavoring. Pour into wet moulds. When firm turn 
 out, and serve with cream. 
 
 Banana Blanc Mange (or other Fruit). 
 
 box Cox's gelatine, 
 cupful water. 
 
 J cupful sugar. 
 
 3 bananas (or other fruit). 
 
 li pints milk. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the water for half an hour. Boil 
 the milk and sugar together. Then pour a little of the 
 hot milk on the gelatine and dissolve it. 
 
 Pour into the hot milk and boil all together ten minutes. 
 Remove, and when beginning to stiffen, stir in the bananas, 
 previously broken with a fork. Put into wet moulds. 
 
 Serve with cream. Eat the day it is made: 
 Velvet Cream. 
 
 4 box Cox's gelatine. 
 4 cupful cold water. 
 4 cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 | cupful sugar. 
 
 i cupful Sherry wine. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the cream with 
 the sugar dissolved in it. Then put in the wine. Stir 
 
260 How to Cook Well. 
 
 fast so that it will not lump. Strain and pour into wet 
 moulds to stiffen. 
 Fills two moulds. 
 
 Mille Fruit Cream. 
 
 | oz. gelatine. 
 
 {1 cupful milk. 
 1 cupful cream, 
 i cupful sugar. 
 Preserved fruit. 
 Syrup of the preserves. 
 
 Put the gelatine to soak in enough cold water to cover 
 it. Leave it in a warm place. In the meantime butter 
 slightly the inside of a mould, and select handsome pieces 
 of preserved fruit of several kinds wherewith to garnish 
 it. Use ginger, watermelon rind, cherries, plums, and 
 anything else that is firm and of a rich color and pretty 
 shape. Lay these around the edges of the mould. 
 
 Mix the milk, cream and sugar together, and whip to a 
 froth. When light and thick, beat in the syrup of the 
 different fruits (a little of each), and mix in gently more 
 of the fruit such as you used in garnishing. 
 
 Then dissolve the gelatine, adding a very little boiling 
 water to it if necessary. Strain it into the whipped 
 cream, stirring all the time quickly, but lightly, with your 
 whisk. Let it stand a few moments until it settles. Put 
 it into the mould carefully, a little at a time, so as not to 
 displace the fruit in the mould. 
 
 Put in a cold place for three or four hours, when it will 
 be stiff enough to turn out. 
 
 N. B. Do not use more than one cupful of preserve 
 juice in all. 
 
 A beautiful dish for a company supper table. 
 
Desserts. 261 
 
 Bavarian Cream With Eggs. 
 
 i box Cox's gelatine. 
 i cupful warm water. 
 1 quart cream. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 4 eggs (yolks ouly). 
 1 teaspoouf ul vanilla. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the warm water for two hours. 
 Put one pint of the cream in a double-boiler, and heat to 
 a boiling point, but do not boll it. Dissolve the gelatine 
 and sugar in this, and remove from the fire. When it 
 is a little cool, beat the eggs and stir them in. Leave it 
 till thick as mush, but not firm. Then beat in lightly a 
 spoonful at a time the remaining pint of cream, whipped 
 light. Then pour into wet moulds, to form. 
 
 Bavarian Cream Without Eggs. 
 
 i box Cox's gelatine. 
 | cupf uls cold water. 
 J cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 wineglass wine. 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the sugar and wine ; 
 set it on the stove and stir till it begins to thicken. Then 
 remove and beat in the cream, previously whipped. Pour 
 into the mould to stiffen. 
 
 Chocolate Bavarian Cream. 
 
 Make like the above, but add more sugar, and omit the 
 wine, and substitute four tablespoonfuls of chocolate, pre- 
 viously wet to a smooth paste with a little boiling water. 
 
 Bavarian Cream With Berries. 
 
 f h box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 4 cupful warm water. 
 
 2i pounds strawberries or raspberries. 
 
 Sugar, to make very sweet. 
 
 1 pint cream, whipped. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the warm water, for one hour, on the 
 back of the stove where it will not boil. While it is soak- 
 ing, squeeze the berries through a bag, or pulp them 
 through a colander. In the juice, dissolve the sugar. 
 
262 How to Cook Well 
 
 Then stir in the soaked gelatine. Leave it until it begins 
 to stiffen, and then beat in the whipped cream. 
 
 Put into wet moulds. If you choose, serve fresh berries 
 around the Cream when it is turned out of the mould. 
 
 Spanish Cream. 
 | box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 quart milk. 
 l small cupfuls sugar. 
 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 
 1 gill wine (or, teaspoonful flavoring). 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one cupful of the milk, cold, for 
 twenty minutes. Boil the rest of the milk in a double- 
 boiler. Pour it upon the gelatine and dissolve it. Beat 
 the yolks of the eggs and the wine with the sugar, reserv- 
 ing half a cupful of the latter. Add the dissolved gel- 
 atine. Stir all well together. Pour into the dish in which 
 it is to be served. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; then stir in 
 the reserved half cupful of sugar and the juice of the lemon. 
 Spread a part of this frosting with a knife around the rim 
 of the dish containing the custard. Then cover the whole 
 top either smoothly or roughly with the remainder. 
 
 Set it in a very hot oven, just long enough to brown 
 delicately. When cool set it on ice to stiffen. This will 
 keep three or four days in a cold place, and is best made 
 the day before it is to be used. 
 
 Italian Cream. 
 r \ box Cox's gelatine. 
 \ 2| cupfuls milk. 
 
 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 
 
 5 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Put the gelatine and the milk together in a double 
 boiler. When the milk is scalded, stir the gelatine to dis- 
 solve it. Remove from the fire, and pour the mixture 
 
Desserts. 263 
 
 upon the yolks of the eggs, previously beaten with the 
 sugar. Stir fast to avoid curdling. Put back on the 
 stove and boil a minute as you would custard. Do not 
 leave it too long or it will curdle. 
 
 Take it off, and when a little cool, add the flavoring, and 
 slowly and gradually stir in the whites beaten stiff. Beat 
 all five minutes, then pour into wet moulds, and set away 
 to harden. 
 
 This makes a rich and beautiful looking dish, clear on 
 top, yellow in the middle and like Charlotte Russe below. 
 
 Ribbon Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 box Cox's gelatine. 
 1 pint cold water. 
 3 cupfuls milk. 
 2| cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate 
 
 grated. 
 A little red syrup. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. 
 Put the sugar and milk in a double boiler ; when it begins 
 to boil, add the gelatine and stir it till dissolved. Remove 
 and strain it ; and divide it into four parts. Have ready 
 a scalloped tin cake-mould, with a tube in the centre. 
 Wet it, pour in one part of the blanc mange, and set it in 
 a cold place. 
 
 Into the second part stir the beaten yolks. Into the 
 third, mix any kind of bright-colored pivserve-syrup, jelly, 
 or prepared cochineal. Into the fourth, stir the chocolate, 
 previously dissolved in a little of the hot milk. Set the 
 vessels containing the different portions into one of hot 
 water. When the white mixture begins to stiffen, pour in 
 the yellow, which should be boiled a minute to cook the 
 eggs. When that is a little stiff, add the pink; and when 
 that is ready, the chocolate. 
 
 When firm, turn out, and put a large, bright-colored 
 flower in the centre, if you want the dish very pretty. 
 This or a plain conical mould shows the colors to better 
 advantage than a fancy shape. 
 
264 How to Cook Well 
 
 Chocolate Gelatine Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 1 oz. Cooper's gelatine. 
 3 eggs (yolks and whites sepa- 
 rate). 
 
 5 tablespooufuls grated choco- 
 late. 
 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla, if you 
 like. 
 
 | cupful sugar. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in one cupful of the milk for fifteen 
 minutes. Put the rest in a double-boiler, and heat to the 
 boiling-point Dissolve the chocolate in a few spoonfuls 
 of the hot milk. Have ready the yolks of the eggs beaten 
 with the sugar. Mix these with the chocolate thoroughly. 
 Pour the hot milk over the mixture, stirring fast, to pre- 
 vent curdling. Return to the fire and boil a minute, stir- 
 ring all the time. Remove, and when partly cool stir in 
 lightly the beaten whites of the eggs and the vanilla. 
 Pour into wet moulds, and set in a cold place. It will 
 take twelve hours to harden. 
 
 Makes two large moulds. 
 
 A pretty way to serve this is to put it in a tin cake- 
 mould with a tube in the middle. When stiff, turn it out, 
 and heap u Whipped Cream " in the hole in the middle 
 and around the base. 
 
 Imitation Hen's Nest. 
 
 For several days before you make this, save the shells 
 of the eggs used for cooking ; pour the contents through 
 a small hole at one end, thus keeping the shells as whole 
 as possible. Rinse them out with cold water. 
 
 Make Blanc Mange by the receipt for Mont Blanc. 
 While liquid, fill the egg-shells (wet), and set them in a pan 
 of flour till the next day. 
 
 Then cut into narrow strips the fresh rinds of four or- 
 anges. Stew them till tender in enough water to cover 
 them. Add one cupful sugar, and cook fifteen minutes 
 longer in the syrup. Spread them, then, on a platter to 
 cool, taking care not to break them. 
 
Desserts. 265 
 
 When cool, arrange them in the shape of a nest (hollow 
 in the middle) in a low, round glass dish. Carefully break 
 the shells from the Blanc Mange, and lay the artificial 
 eggs prettily in the middle, with a few pieces of the imi- 
 tation straw scattered about. Serve with cream. 
 
 This is a very ornamental and inexpensive dessert, and 
 is much more easily prepared than many which are not so 
 pretty. I have had it for dessert on Easter, before I 
 heard of Marion Ilarland's still prettier dish of " Easter 
 Eggs," which are made like these, but of different colors. 
 
 If you choose, put a layer of "Lemon" or "Cider 
 Jelly " under the " nest," not allowing it to show. The 
 flavor is pleasant. 
 
 Junket. 
 
 1 quart new milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla or a few drops rose extract. 
 1 tablespoonf ul prepared rennet. 
 
 Mix all together about one and one half hours before it is 
 to be eaten, in the dish in which it is to be served. Set 
 in a warm place, till just firm. Then keep on ice till 
 wanted, and serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 In cool weather, it will be necessary to prepare it fully 
 two hours before serving. It should not be allowed to 
 stand long after it becomes firm, or the whey will separate. 
 
 A good Sunday dessert in hot weather, because it re- 
 quires no cooking. 
 
 Serve with cream and sugar, or fruit syrup. 
 
 Almond Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 1 oz. isinglass. 
 \ 1 quart new milk (warm). 
 j 2 oz. "blanched almonds." 
 \ A little rose-water. 
 I cupful sugar. 
 
 Soak and dissolve the isinglass in the milk. Pound the 
 almonds in a marble mortar, working them to a smooth 
 
266 How to Cook Well 
 
 paste with the rose-water. Add them to the milk while 
 warm, sweeten, and pour the whole into wet moulds. 
 When stiff, turn out, and serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 Rice Blanc Mange. 
 f 1 cupful raw rice (washed). 
 
 3 pints water (cold). 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 lemon (grated rind only). 
 
 A little cinnamon. 
 cupful cream. 
 
 cupful preserve- juice or jelly 
 (may be omitted). 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 Boil the rice in the water till every grain is dissolved 
 and the water displaced by a thick paste of rice. 
 
 Stir into it the sugar and lemon rind, salt and cinnamon. 
 
 Beat the cream to a stiff froth and stir into the rice. 
 Then mix in the preserve juice or jelly, which should be 
 of a bright color. 
 
 Pack the blanc mange in wet moulds. When stiff, 
 turn out and serve with custard or cream. 
 
 Snow Balls (a Simple Dessert). 
 
 Boil rice in salted boiling water till very tender. Wet 
 small cups, and while the rice is still hot, pack it in the 
 cups till half filled. Set in a cold place for about three 
 hours. Just before dinner, scoop out the centre of each 
 (saving the rice for muffins) and fill with bright-colored 
 jelly, or a piece of any kind of preserves. ^ 
 
 Turn out the moulds on a platter, and pour soft custard 
 around the base, taking care to let none of the custard 
 fall on the tops of the Snow Balls. 
 
 Or, serve simply with cream and sugar. 
 
 An easy Sunday dessert for hot weather. 
 
 Tapioca or Sago Blanc Mange. 
 
 i cupful tapioca or sago. 
 1 pint cold water. 
 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 1 lemon (juice only). 
 
 Soak the tapioca in the water for two hours. Then 
 put in a double-boiler, and boil slowly till soft. Add the 
 
Desserts. 267 
 
 sugar and lemon-juice, and boil till transparent. Pour 
 into wet moulds, and eat with cream and sugar when stiff 
 enough to turn out. 
 
 To vary this omit the lemon, and mix in apple sauce, 
 preserved or canned fruit left from tea (cut fine), using 
 also the juice. 
 
 Substitute milk for water, and omit the lemon if you 
 
 choose. 
 
 Rouge Mange. 
 
 (A Danish fieceipt.) 
 
 Boil cranberries, cherries or red currants in enough 
 water to cover them. Crush them with a wooden spoon 
 while boiling. When soft, squeeze through a bag. To 
 two quarts of juice put half of a pound of sugar. Put this 
 on the stove. When it begins to boil throw in a scant 
 quarter of a pound of sago, soaked for one hour in just 
 enough water to cover it. 
 
 Boil till the sago is transparent, stirring often. Do not 
 let it scorch. Pour into wet moulds. When stiff, turn 
 out and serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 5 even tablespoonfuls corn- 
 starch. 
 1 teaspoonf ul flavoring. 
 
 Put" the milk in a double-boiler with the sugar and salt, 
 and set it on the stove, reserving one cupful. Rub the 
 cornstarch to a paste with this, and add to the hot milk 
 when boiling fast. Stir well, and let it boil about five 
 minutes, till thick. Take from the fire. Flavor, and 
 pour into wet moulds. 
 
 Rich Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 i saltspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 
 3 eggs (yolks only). 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange." Pour 
 
268 How to Cook Well. 
 
 a little over the beaten yolks of the eggs, stirring fast. 
 Return to the kettle, and boil a moment, stirring con- 
 stantly. Remove, flavor, and pour into wet moulds. 
 
 Chocolate Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 
 
 (No eggs.} 
 ( 1" cupful milk. 
 1 1 heaping tablespoonful sugar. 
 
 1 heaping tablespoonful cornstarch. 
 
 1 heaping tablespoonful grated chocolate. 
 
 Allow this quantity to every two persons, and increase 
 it according to the size of your family. 
 
 Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange," but 
 mix the chocolate (wet to a paste with a few spoonfuls of 
 hot milk) with the cornstarch before adding it. 
 
 German Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 4 table spoonfuls sugar. 
 
 i saltspoonf ul salt. 
 
 5 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 
 
 3 eggs (whites only). 
 
 A few drops rose-extract. 
 
 Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange." When 
 you take it from the fire, stir in lightly with a fork the 
 whites of the eggs (beaten stiff}, and flavor. Pour into 
 wet moulds. When firm, turn out on a platter, and pour 
 around it the following 
 
 Soft Custard. 
 
 1 pint milk. I 3 eggs (yolks only). 
 
 2^ tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 To make it, see Boiled Custard. 
 
 A very delicate and simple dessert. 
 
 Arrowroot Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1J tablespoonfuls Bermuda 
 arrowroot. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 A few drops rose-extract. 
 
 cupful cold water. 
 Scald the milk. Rub the arrowroot to a paste with the 
 water. Stir this into the milk while boiling. Add the 
 
Desserts. 269 
 
 sugar and salt, and boil till it thickens, stirring constantly. 
 Remove from the fire, flavor and pour into wet moulds 
 to stiffen. (Water may be used instead of milk.) 
 Excellent for invalids. 
 
 Sea Moss Blanc Mange. 
 
 4 cupful sea moss. I i cupful sugar. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 Wash the moss and soak half an hour in enough cold 
 water to cover it. Then put it and the water in which it 
 was soaked in a double-boiler with the milk. Set on the 
 stove. Notice when it begins to boil ; and boil gently for 
 twenty minutes. Then strain through a cloth, sweeten, 
 and pour it into wet moulds. It will not have percepti- 
 bly thickened at all, but do not boil it any longer. It 
 will stiffen as soon as cold. On no account spoil the 
 natural flavor of the moss by adding any kind of essence. 
 
 If the moss is old it will be necessary to use more than 
 if fresh. 
 
 Whipped Cream or Syllabub. 
 
 Sweeten and flavor the cream. Then beat in a deep 
 bowl with a Dover egg-beater. As the froth rises take it 
 off, and put it on a sieve. What drains off can be col- 
 lected and beaten or whipped again. Heap it in glasses 
 and serve soon. Serve fancy crackers with it, or " Sponge 
 Cake." 
 
 A tiny bit of soda stirred into the cream before whip- 
 ping it, will prevent its turning to butter in hot weather. 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 4 oz. Cox's gelatine. 
 4 cupful hot milk. 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 2 eggs (whites only). 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls wine (or a 
 
 little vanilla), 
 cupful sugar (pulverized). 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine in the milk. Sweeten 
 the cream. Beat it a little. Then add to it the whites 
 
270 How to Cootc Well 
 
 of the eggs (previously beaten stiff) and the wine. Beat 
 all together with a Dover egg-beater. Add the gelatine 
 and beat all till it thickens well. 
 
 Have ready a square mould, lined with thin slices of 
 sponge cake, with the crust cut off, or with lady-fingers. 
 Fill at once with the mixture. Lay a few slices of the 
 cake over the top, and set it away to stiffen. When firm, 
 turn it out on a pretty dish. 
 
 Fills a large mould. 
 
 Simple Charlotte Busse. 
 
 ( 1 pint rich cream. 
 
 J 1 wineglassful wine (or half a teaspoonful vanilla). 
 [ i pound pulverized sugar. 
 2 eggs (whites only). 
 
 Flavor and sweeten the cream. Then whip it. Beat 
 the eggs light, add the cream and beat all together thor- 
 oughly. Proceed as with the last receipt for " Charlotte 
 Russe." It is best made the day before it is to be eaten. 
 
 Christmas Charlotte Russe. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul Cox's gela- 
 tine. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul cold water. 
 1 cupful milk. 
 3 eggs (yolks and whites sepa- 
 
 k cupful sugar. 
 
 | teaspoonful vanilla (or a lit- 
 tle wine). 
 1 pint rich cream. 
 Sponge cake. 
 
 rate). 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the water fifteen minutes. Heat 
 the rnilk in a double-boiler. When it begins to boil, add 
 the gelatine, and stir till dissolved. Beat the yolks of the 
 eggs with the sugar. Pour the boiling milk on them, and 
 return to the fire. Boil a minute (stirring all the time), 
 till it thickens well. Take it off. When partly cool add 
 the vanilla. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Pour the 
 cream on them, and whip them together as light as possi- 
 ble. As soon as the custard is perfectly cold add it to the 
 
Desserts. 271 
 
 whipped cream. Mix well. Proceed to fill moulds as in 
 the two previous receipts. 
 
 Charlotte Russe Pudding. 
 
 pints milk. 
 
 teaspoon ful cornstarch. 
 
 cupful white sugar. 
 
 4 eggs (beaten separately). 
 3 teaspoonful flavoring. 
 Sponge cake. 
 
 Make like " Cornstarch Custard," reserving the whites 
 of the eggs. Have ready in a deep dish some slices of 
 sponge cake. Pour the hot custard on them. When 
 cool, cover with a " Meringue " and brown delicately. 
 
 Serve cold. 
 
 Boiled Custard. 
 
 1 quart milk, 
 f 5 eggs (yolks only). 
 1 5 tahlespoonf uls sugar. 
 
 Flavoring ("Zest" is best). 
 
 Put the milk into a double-boiler on the stove. Beat 
 the eggs and sugar together, and when the milk boils pour 
 it over them (if you add the eggs to the milk there is 
 danger of curdling), stirring briskly as you do so. Re- 
 turn to the fire for a moment, to cook the eggs. Stir att 
 the time. Remove, and when cool, mix in the flavoring. 
 Pour into a custard-dish and grate a little nutmeg over 
 the top, if you like. 
 
 If you make half the quantity, use three eggs (yolks 
 only). 
 
 Maple sugar gives a delicate and agreeable flavor to 
 custards. It is much used in the White Mountains. 
 
 Cornstarch Custard (boiled). 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 f i quart miiK. r 4 tal 
 
 \ A pinch of salt. j 3 e g 
 
 4 table spoonfuls sugar. 
 
 ;gs (yolks only). 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 
 
 Put the salt with the milk in a double-boiler on the 
 stove, reserving a little of the milk in which to rub the 
 
272 How to Cook Well. 
 
 cornstarch. When the milk boils, add the latter, and let 
 it boil a few minutes. Then pour it over the sugar and 
 eggs (beaten together), stir fast and return to the fire. 
 Boil a moment, stirring all the time. Take it off, and 
 when cool mix in the flavoring or a little wine. 
 
 If you wish, use one egg less, and one spoonful more 
 of cornstarch. Or use less cornstarch if you like it thin. 
 
 Floating Island. 
 
 Make either of the two custards given above. Substi- 
 tute flour for the cornstarch if you prefer, using a little 
 less. When cool, and shortly before serving, beat the 
 whites of the eggs, add pulverized sugar, and drop it in 
 large spoonfuls on top of the custard. Then dot each 
 "Island " with bright-colored tart jelly. 
 
 Raspberry Floating Island is made as above, but 
 to make the islands, see " Raspberry Trifle." 
 
 Apple Floating Island. Make the islands like " Ap- 
 ple Snow." 
 
 Jelly Floating Island. Beat a little red jelly with 
 the whites of the eggs. 
 
 Chocolate Floating Island. To the beaten whites 
 of the eggs add two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate. 
 
 Floating Island, without Cooking. 
 
 Put a pint of cream into a glass dish ; beat the whites 
 of the eggs stiff; add a little pulverized sugar and currant 
 jelly ; beat all to a stiff froth, and pile in spoonfuls on 
 the surface of the cream. 
 
 Serve soon with fancy crackers. 
 
 Or arrange it in cups, and put a macaroon in each. 
 
 Apple Custard. 
 
 If you have custard left from dinner, it will serve a 
 second time by filling the bottom of the dish with apple- 
 
Desserts. 273 
 
 sauce and pouring the custard over. A very nice des- 
 sert. Serve nice crackers with it. 
 
 Berries, sliced peaches, or pears are nice served thus. 
 
 Orange Custard. 
 
 2 oranges. 
 ( 5 eggs. 
 1 2 cupf uls sugar. 
 
 2 cupfuls milk. 
 
 To the rind of one orange, grated, add the juice of both. 
 Beat the eggs and sugar together, and add them. Mix 
 all with the milk. Pour into custard-cups, set in a pan of 
 hot water, and bake half an hour, till firm. 
 
 Lemon Custard. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 1 large cupf ul sugar. 
 
 5 eggs. 
 
 Put into a porcelain sauce-pan, or pitcher, the juice of 
 the lemons and the rind of one grated. Add the yolks 
 of the eggs, beaten with the sugar. Set the sauce-pan 
 into a pan of boiling water, on the stove ; stir constantly 
 until it bubbles, to prevent curdling. Have ready the 
 whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Take the custard off the 
 stove, and lightly beat them in. Pour into a glass dish 
 or custard-cups. Serve cold. 
 
 Tipsy Parson. 
 
 Moisten slices of stale cake with wine, and lay them in 
 the bottom of a custard-dish. Have ready a "Boiled Cus- 
 tard " ; pour it while hot on the cake. Do not serve it for 
 two hours. 
 
 This is a good way to use up stale cake or gingerbread, 
 though the latter is not so nice. 
 
 A richer dish may be made by spreading the cake with 
 jelly, after moistening it, and by beating the whites of the 
 eggs, afterwards sweetened, with which to cover the top. 
 
274 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Cup Custard. 
 
 1 quart milk. I 4 tablespoonf uls sugar. 
 
 3 eggs. I 1 teaspoonf ul flavoring. 
 
 Scald the milk and pour it upon the eggs and sugar, 
 previously beaten together, stirring to avoid curdling. 
 Flavor, and pour while hot, into small cups. Set them in 
 a dripping-pan, and fill that with hot water deep enough 
 to reach two thirds up the cups. Set them in a moderate 
 oven for about ten minutes ; until firm. Take them out 
 as soon as done, or they will curdle, and serve when cold. 
 
 Richer custards may be made by using six eggs, yolks 
 only. 
 
 Grated nutmeg, lemon peel, chocolate or cocoanut, 
 may be scattered over the top. 
 
 Baked Custard. 
 
 / 4 eggs. 
 
 cupful of sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful flavoring. 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 Beat the eggs and sugar together ; add salt, flavoring 
 and milk (cold). Pour into a buttered pudding-dish; set 
 this into a pan of hot water, and put it in a very hot 
 oven. It should not cook more than half an hour. 
 
 It is a good plan to keep it covered the first ten min- 
 utes ; as soon as firm, take it out before it curdles. 
 
 This may be baked in cups if preferred. 
 
 Delmonico Pudding. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 
 
 4 eggs, beaten separately. 
 A little flavoring. 
 | cupful jelly. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 Mix like " Cornstarch Custard." After adding the fla- 
 voring, pour it into a pudding-dish, and spread jelly over 
 the top. Cover this with a " Meringue," and brown deli- 
 cately in a very hot oven. Serve very cold. 
 
Desserts. 275 
 
 Another way is, to add more sugar than usual to the 
 "Meringue," and stir in grated cocoanut. Instead of 
 browning it, scatter cocoanut over the top, to give the 
 appearance of snow-flakes. 
 
 Caramel Custard. 
 
 Make " Boiled Custard," and use both yolks and whites 
 of the five eggs. Do not flavor it. Put five tablespoon- 
 f uls of light brown sugar into a pan, and set it on the stove 
 to burn, stirring till it becomes a dark brown. While the 
 custard is boiling hot, pour it on the burnt sugar and stir 
 it until it is dissolved. Have ready a pudding-dish, but- 
 tered and hot ; pour in the custard ; set it in a pan of hot 
 water, and proceed as for " Baked Custard." 
 
 Cocoanut Pudding. 
 
 Make " Cornstarch Blanc Mange " by either of the re- 
 ceipts given. On removing from the fire stir in one cup 
 of grated cocoanut. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish, 
 and when cold spread with a "Meringue." When baked 
 sprinkle cocoanut on top. 
 
 Serve cold with cream or " Boiled Custard." 
 
 Cocoanut Custard Pudding. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 1 pint grated cocoanut. 
 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 1 soda cracker, rolled fine. 
 
 4 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 Scald the milk, remove and add the cocoanut. When 
 cold, add the eggs and sugar ; stir in the cracker, and 
 pour into a buttered pudding-dish. Bake in a rather hot 
 oven, nearly half an hour ; until firm. Serve cold. 
 Chocolate Custard Pudding. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 3 ounces grated chocolate. 
 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 
 6 eggs, reserving whites of 3. 
 
 Boil the milk, first dipping out a little with which to 
 stir the chocolate to a paste ; add it to the boiling milk. 
 
276 How to Cook Well 
 
 When it has boiled a few minutes remove, and let it cool 
 fifteen minutes ; then stir in the eggs, beaten light. Add 
 the sugar and vanilla. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish 
 in a very hot oven, having the dish set in a pan of boiling 
 water. When firm, which should be in half an hour, re- 
 move and cover with a " Meringue," using the reserved 
 whites of eggs. 
 Serve cold. 
 
 Orange Pudding. 
 
 4 oranges. 
 
 to sweeten. 
 
 Cornstarch Custard.' 
 
 3 or 2 eggs (whites only). 
 3 tablespoonf uls pulverized 
 sugar. 
 
 Peel, slice and sugar the oranges. Pour the custard 
 (while hot) over them, and mix well. When cool cover 
 with a " Meringue." Brown delicately in a very hot oven, 
 the dish being set in a pan of hot water. Serve cold. 
 
 Berries or preserves may be substituted for the 
 
 Orange Fool. 
 
 2 large oranges, juice only. 
 Sugar to sweeten. 
 
 2 or 3 eggs, well beaten. 
 | pint cream. 
 
 Mix all together, in a pitcher; set this into a pan of 
 hot water, and stir it over a slow fire until it becomes as 
 thick as melted butter, but do not let it boil. 
 
 Pour into a glass dish and serve cold with nice crackers. 
 
 Gooseberry Fool. 
 
 1 quart ripe gooseberries. I f 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonf ul butter. I 1 3 or 4 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 Put the gooseberries into cold water on the fire, and 
 when they come to a boil, throw it off, and pour in just 
 enough hot water to cover them, and stew till tender. 
 Then put through a sieve to remove the skins. 
 
Desserts. 277 
 
 While hot, stir in the butter, sugar and eggs, beaten. 
 Serve cold in a glass dish, with nice crackers. 
 
 This can be improved by making a " Meringue " for 
 the top. 
 
 Nonsense. 
 
 1 egg, white only. 
 
 3 table spoonfuls strawberry or raspberry jam. 
 
 2 tablespooufuls currant jelly. 
 
 Beat the white stiff and add it by degrees to the jam 
 and jelly. Beat till stiff enough for the spoon to stand 
 upright. Serve in glasses with nice crackers. 
 
 A good way to use preserves left from tea. 
 
 Raspberry Trifle. 
 
 1 pint fresh raspberries. I 4 eggs, whites only. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. | h cupful pulverized sugar. 
 
 Crush the raspberries, and pass them through a sieve to 
 avoid seeds; stir in the sugar; beat the eggs stiff, and 
 add to them the pulverized sugar. By degrees, beat in 
 the sweetened raspberries, until stiff enough to stand in 
 peaks. 
 
 Apple Snow. 
 
 2 cupfuls stewed apples, or 8 I 2 eggs, whites only. 
 
 baked apples (pulped). 1 1 cupful white sugar. 
 
 Strain the apple. Beat the eggs light ; then add the 
 sugar gradually. Mix the egg and sugar with the apple 
 while hot, in a deep dish, and beat with the egg-beater 
 three quarters of an hour, or until it will stand alone. 
 
 Serve before it falls. 
 
 This makes a very large dish full. 
 
 Imperial Cream. 
 
 1 pint cream. | Sugar to sweeten. 
 
 1 large lemon. 
 
 Boil the cream in a pitcher set within hot water. Dis- 
 solve in it a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the lemon skin 
 
278 How to Cook Well. 
 
 till yellow. Remove from the fire and stir till nearly 
 cold. Have ready in a custard-dish, the juice of the 
 lemon (strained), with as much sugar as will sweeten the 
 cream. Pour the cream into the dish from a pitcher 
 holding it high and moving it about, so as to mix thor- 
 oughly with the juice. 
 
 Make it at least six hours before serving ; better if the 
 day before. 
 
 ICE CREAM, ETC. 
 Frozen Custard. 
 
 Make " Boiled or Cornstarch Custard," but use as much 
 as one half pound of sugar. Freeze it as directed, on 
 freezer. 
 
 A Rich Ice Cream. 
 
 5 cupfuls cream. [ 14 teaspoonfuls vanilla, 
 
 li cupfuls sugar. 
 
 Mix all together and freeze. 
 
 Good Ice Cream may be made by substituting milk 
 for half the cream. Boil. "Thicken" with one table- 
 spoonful of arrowroot, and add one or two eggs. 
 
 For six persons. 
 
 Banana Ice Cream. 
 
 Make like the above, and mix in, when half frozen, 
 one large banana, mashed with a fork. 
 
 Or, stir the banana into the following mixture : 
 
 r 1 quart hot milk. I h pound sugar. 
 
 \ 2 tablespoonf uls gelatine. | 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 Mix well together and freeze. 
 
 Peach Ice Cream. 
 
 Make like "Banana Ice Cream," using one quart peaches, 
 pared, stoned and mashed. 
 
 Canned peaches, or apricots may be used for this. 
 
Desserts. 279 
 
 Pine-Apple Ice Cream. 
 
 1 quart cream. I 2 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 quart milk. | 2 pine-apples, chopped. 
 
 Sweeten the cream and milk ; freeze, and when nearly 
 frozen add the pine-apples with the juice. (If this is put 
 in before freezing it will curdle the milk.) Beat all to- 
 gether, and finish freezing. 
 
 Two cans of pine-apple may be substituted for the fresh. 
 
 Berry Ice Cream. 
 
 Mash strawberries or raspberries, sweeten and make 
 like " Banana Ice Cream." 
 
 One quart of berries to one quart of cream is a good 
 proportion. 
 
 Chocolate Ice Cream. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 4 tablespoonf uls Baker's choc- 
 olate grated. 
 A little boiling water. 
 
 4 tablespoonf ul cornstarch. 
 1 egg, beaten light, 
 li tcaspoonfuls vanilla. 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 li cupfuls sugar. 
 
 Heat the milk in a double-boiler, reserving a little. 
 Rub the chocolate smooth in the boiling water, and add 
 to the milk with the sugar. Rub the cornstarch in the 
 reserved milk and stir it with the egg ; add this to the 
 milk after it has boiled a few minutes. Stir it for a 
 moment, and remove before it thickens much. When 
 perfectly cold, stir in the vanilla and cream. Freeze. 
 Enough for eight persons. 
 
 Coffee Ice Cream. 
 
 2 quarts milk. 
 
 1 pint strong, clear, hot coffee. 
 
 1$ pounds sugar. 
 1 quart rich cream. 
 
 Mix all together, adding the cream when the mixture 
 is cold, and freeze. 
 
 Enough for sixteen persons. 
 
280 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Caramel Ice Cream. 
 
 pound brown sugar. 
 A little hot water. 
 
 3 or 4 eggs, well beaten. 
 Lemon flavoring, if you like. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 Burn one half the sugar in a pan on top of the stove, 
 stirring constantly till soft and dark ; pour in enough of 
 the water to make it liquid. Add the rest of the sugar, 
 mixed with the milk and beaten eggs. Flavor and stir 
 all together. Then freeze. For three persons. 
 
 Bisque Ice Cream. 
 
 3 ounces macaroons. 
 1 pint cream. 
 
 1 glass sherry wine. 
 Sugar to taste. 
 
 1 lemon, juice only. 
 
 Roll or crush fine the macaroons, and beat them into 
 the cream. Then stir in the other ingredients. Whip 
 all together and freeze. To substitute any kind of stale 
 cake for the macaroons makes a good ice cream, but not 
 Bisque ! For three persons. 
 
 Orange or Lemon Ice. 
 
 1 pint water 
 1 pint sugar. 
 
 6 oranges and 2 lemons, or, 
 6 lemons and 2 oranges. 
 
 Mix all together, using the juice of all, and the grated 
 rind of three of the oranges or lemons. Freeze. It is an 
 improvement to add when partly frozen, the whites of 
 three or four eggs, beaten stiff. 
 
 Fruit Ices. 
 
 2 quarts water. 
 
 3 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 quart fruit juice. 
 Brandy, if you like. 
 
 Sweeten the water, strain any kind of fruit juice ; add 
 it and freeze. This requires a longer time to freeze than 
 other ices. It is an improvement to stir in, when the 
 ice is half frozen, the whites of three eggs, beaten stiff. 
 The juice of currants, cherries and raspberries is delicious 
 for this. 
 
Desserts. 281 
 
 A Pretty Way to Serve Orange Ice. 
 
 Cut a round top off the oranges; remove the inside 
 without breaking the skin. Squeeze out the juice. 
 Sweeten and strain. Add a little rurn, one pint of water 
 and two lemons to every half-dozen oranges. Freeze. Fill 
 the skins just before serving. Put the lids on, and serve 
 on plates with napkins under, and ornament the base with 
 geranium leaves. 
 
 Or serve in orange baskets. (See page 255.) 
 
 Arrowroot Ice. 
 
 2 dessert spoonfuls arrow- 
 
 root. 
 | cupful cold water. 
 
 1 quart boiling water. 
 
 4 lemons. 
 
 1 pound sugar. 
 
 Dissolve the arrowroot in the cold water, pour on it 
 slowly the boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, 
 and the grated peel of one. Sweeten and freeze. 
 
 Peach Ice. 
 
 12 peaches. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 1 pint water. 
 
 3 eggs, whites only. 
 
 Break the peaches with a fork, and stir all the ingredi- 
 ents together, except the eggs, which should be beaten 
 stiff and added when the mixture is half frozen. 
 
 One can of peaches may be substituted for the fresh 
 fruit. 
 
 CANDY. 
 Cream Chocolates. 
 
 Grate part of a cake of Baker's chocolate, and melt it 
 over the fire, without the addition of water. Mix together 
 confectioner's or pulverized sugar and a little cream, 
 till it is of a thick consistency. Then form it into small 
 balls, rolling each ball when made in fine sugar, and dip it 
 into the chocolate (lukewarm), to form a neat coating on 
 
282 How to Cook Well. 
 
 the outside. This can be done most easily by sticking 
 the cream-ball on the end of a new wooden toothpick, or 
 any equally tiny stick. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels (sugar). 
 
 3 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 cake Baker's chocolate, grated. 
 
 % pound butter. 
 
 1 cupful cream. 
 
 Set on the stove. Boil from fifteen to twenty minutes 
 from the time it begins to boil. Stir constantly. Have 
 ready buttered pans. Fill them at the fire, or the cara- 
 mel will harden before you can pour it out. Cut into 
 squares. 
 
 Another, 
 
 i pound chocolate (grated). 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 {1 pint milk. 
 3 pounds sugar, 
 i pound butter. 
 
 Put the milk, sugar and butter on to boil. When it 
 begins to boil, pour a little of the mixture on the choco- 
 late. Rub to a paste, and then pour it into the sauce-pan. 
 Stir it without stopping, after this, and do not let it stop 
 boiling once. When thick, add the vanilla and proceed 
 as above. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels (molasses). 
 
 Boil one quart of good New Orleans molasses until it 
 hardens by dropping a little of it in water. Just before 
 removing from the fire, add four ounces of chocolate, 
 finely and uniformly grated. 
 
 Pour a thin layer into shallow pans slightly greased, 
 and when the surface of the candy has become hardened 
 a little, mark it, with a knife, into squares. The caramels 
 may be flavored with vanilla if you like. 
 
Desserts. 283 
 
 Another, 
 
 1 cake Baker's chocolate, 
 
 grated. 
 cupful milk. 
 
 2 cupf uls bx'own sugar. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 Butter size of a walnut, 
 i teaspoonf ul vanilla (may be 
 omitted) . 
 
 Boil all except the vanilla over a slow fire for about 
 thirty minutes, till it hardens when tested as above. Stir 
 constantly. Add the vanilla just before pouring it into 
 the pans. 
 
 Maple-Sugar Caramels. 
 2 pounds maple sugar. | 1 quart rich new milk. 
 
 Break the sugar into small bits, and put it into a large 
 pan, to allow for boiling over. Add the milk, and set it 
 on the fire ; stir without ceasing with a wooden spoon, in 
 order to prevent its burning. To test whether it is done, 
 drop a little into cold water. When it cracks apart, and 
 seems brittle, it is done. Pour into shallow pans, pre- 
 viously buttered, and mark it in squares with a knife 
 before it becomes quite cold. 
 
 The success of these favorite caramels depends upon 
 their being boiled to exactly the right point, for which 
 it is difficult to give a rule. The best I can give is, that 
 when a spoonful dripped slowly will string and break 
 apart in dropping it is done. 
 
 Jelly Drops. 
 
 Crab-apple or any very firm jelly may be cut into small 
 cubes, rolled thickly in granulated sugar, and laid in a 
 cool, dry place for two or three days. The drops will 
 then be ready to mix with other candies in a box ; they 
 are delicious and look pretty. 
 
 Stiff marmalade of any kind may be used in the same 
 way. 
 
284 How to Cook Well 
 
 French Candies (without cooking). 
 
 1 egg (white only). 
 
 Cold water. 
 
 1 pound confectioner's sugar (more or less). 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Break the white of the egg into a cup, and measure 
 about the same bulk of water. Then put the egg into a 
 large earthen bowl, and beat it light. Stir in the water. 
 Then add the sugar till the mixture is stiff enough to 
 handle. (If you get in too much sugar you cannot form 
 the candy well.) Pour in a little vanilla and a few drops 
 each of rose, bitter almond, and lemon extract. Mix well. 
 
 Dip your hands into pulverized sugar, and form some 
 of the candy into balls the size of a marble. Roll them 
 in granulated sugar, and lay on platters sprinkled with 
 granulated sugar. The balls may be varied by placing an 
 almond in the centre of each, shaping the ball like the 
 almond. Or, flatten the balls, and place the half of an 
 English walnut on both outer sides. 
 
 Sugared Dates and Raisins may be made by stoning 
 them (cutting open one side only), and filling them with 
 the mixture. 
 
 Chopped Figs, Dates and Raisins (or any one alone) 
 may be mixed through a part, and made into balls ; or 
 the mixture may be spread in a sugared shallow pan, and 
 marked into small diamonds or squares. 
 
 Pounded Hickory-Nut Meat mixed with it varies the 
 mixture again. 
 
 A freshly grated Cocoanut may be stirred into a part, 
 and Chocolate into another. Still another part may be 
 colored a Pretty Pink by the addition of a spoonful of 
 red preserve syrup, or a little cranberry juice ; the cran- 
 berries being stewed, with very little water, and strained. 
 
 To color yellow, see page 319. 
 
Desserts. 285 
 
 Both the pink and yellow balls look pretty rolled in 
 cocoanut. 
 
 Hodge Podge is made by spreading in a shallow, 
 sugared pan a layer of the brown, then the white, and the 
 pink on top. When cut in squares it looks very pretty. 
 
 An almost endless variety of candies may be made from 
 this receipt. It should be eaten fresh, but must have 
 time to harden, so it is best to make it two days before 
 it is to be used. 
 
 Fruit Candy. (No. 1.) 
 
 / 2 pounds sugar. I Raisins and figs (chopped). 
 
 1 2 lemons (juice only). 
 
 Boil the sugar with the lemon-juice (slowly and with- 
 out stirring) till it ropes when poured from the spoon. 
 Then stir in the fruit enough to thicken the syrup 
 well. Pour into buttered shallow pans, and when partly 
 cold, mark it with a knife into pieces one inch square. 
 
 Another way is to use, instead of the raisins and figs, 
 any or several kinds of preserved fruits, chopped coarse. 
 Use a little more lemon juice in this case. 
 
 Cream Candy. 
 
 1 cupful rich cream. I 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla or rose. 
 
 3 pounds sugar. 
 
 Boil the cream and sugar together, slowly, without stir- 
 ring, till it candies when dropped into cold water. Then 
 stir in the vanilla, and pour into buttered pans. As soon 
 as it is cool, pull strips of it with your hands until very 
 white. The hands should be washed in cold water often, 
 and thoroughly dried afterwards. This keeps the hands 
 from becoming warm and moist, and the candy is much 
 nicer for the extra trouble taken. On no account butter 
 the hands. 
 
 N. B. It is not necessary to pull the candy at all, but 
 it is much better to do so. 
 
286 How to Cook Well 
 
 Burnt Almonds. 
 
 1 pound almonds. 
 I pound sugar. 
 . 1 cupful water. 
 A few drops vanilla or rose. 
 
 Put the sugar and water on to boil. While they are 
 heating shell the almonds, but do not pull off the skins. 
 Warm them slightly. 
 
 When the surface of the syrup is covered with large 
 globules stir in the vanilla and the almonds. Use a 
 wooden spoon. Stir gently in such a way as to detach 
 the sugar from the bottom and sides of the sauce-pan, and 
 to keep the almonds from sticking. They should be 
 thoroughly turned over and over, so that each one may 
 be well coated with sugar. As soon as they give out a 
 crackling noise the sauce-pan should be removed from the 
 fire, and still gently stirred until the sugar appears to be 
 in grains almost like sand. Then the entire contents of 
 the sauce-pan should be turned out on a wire sieve, and 
 covered with paper for five minutes. 
 
 At the end of that time the almonds should be picked 
 out, the grained sugar which remains being returned to 
 the sauce-pan with only just enough water to dissolve 
 it. 
 
 Proceed from this point exactly as at the beginning, 
 going all over it again, being careful to wait till the sugar 
 has the same bubbly appearance as before, before putting 
 in the almonds. Give them a second coating of sugar, 
 being sure to keep them separated. If the operation is 
 entirely repeated even three or four times, of course the 
 almonds will have a much thicker coating of sugar. They 
 should, when done, have a rough, uneven surface. 
 
 Wrap them in fancy papers if you choose. 
 
Desserts. 287 
 
 Molasses Candy. 
 
 f 1 pint molasses, 
 j 1 cupful brown sugar. 
 ] Butter size of walnut. 
 [ 1 dessertspoonful vinegar. 
 | teaspoonful soda (dry). 
 
 Boil the first four ingredients, stirring constantly, in a 
 large kettle. At the end of half an hour test it. If it 
 hardens when dropped into cold water, stir in the soda and 
 pour it into greased pans. When cool, pull it without 
 buttering the hands. The length of time for boiling 
 depends upon the kind of molasses. Some kinds take as 
 long as one and one half hours. The common dark-col- 
 ored molasses boils more quickly, and makes better candy 
 than the nicer kinds. 
 
 Taffy. 
 
 Make as above, but do not pull. Mark it off into 
 squares before it hardens. 
 
 Peanut Candy. 
 
 Make as above. Have ready the peanuts (two quarts 
 unshelled). When ready to take up the molasses, stir in 
 the peanuts ; pour into shallow pans, and smooth the top 
 with a wet knife. When cool, mark into strips with the 
 knife. 
 
 Sugar Taffy with Nuts. 
 
 1 cupful granulated sugar. I teaspoonful lemon flavoring. 
 1 cupful peanuts. 
 
 Put the sugar in a clean frying-pan. Set it on the fire 
 and stir without stopping for about five minutes. As 
 soon as melted remove the sugar from the fire, and stir in 
 the flavoring and nuts. Pour instantly into a greased 
 pan. When cool, mark into strips. If left too long over 
 the fire the syrup will return to sugar. Chop the nuts if 
 you prefer. Any kind of nuts or flavor will do. 
 
 This is more quickly made than any other candy. 
 
288 How to Cook Well 
 
 Sugar Candy. 
 
 3J pounds white sugar. 
 3 cupfuls water. 
 
 1 table spoonful vinegar. 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Mix all together except the vanilla. Boil slowly with- 
 out stirring. When the bubbles become large, test it as 
 you do "Cream Candy." When ropy take from the fire, 
 add the vanilla, and proceed as with " Cream Candy." The 
 more it is pulled the better it is. 
 
 Vinegar Candy. 
 2 cupfuls sugar. | 1 cupful vinegar. 
 
 Boil until it candies, then proceed as with "Cream 
 Candy." 
 
 Barley Sugar. 
 
 (An English Receipt.} 
 
 r Ik pounds fine loaf sugar. 
 \ 1 pint water. 
 
 1 lemon (juice only). 
 
 6 drops essence of lemon. 
 
 Break the sugar into fine lumps. Put it in a sauce-pan 
 with the water to boil. Skim it carefully, till it looks 
 like glue. When it becomes brittle on being dropped 
 into cold water, and will snap, add the lemon-juice and 
 essence. Boil up once, remove from the fire, and set the 
 sauce-pan into a pan of cold water, to cool it quickly. 
 When the first heat has subsided, pour the contents upon 
 a platter (previously buttered). Keep it from spreading 
 out much by pushing it together with a knife. When 
 cool enough to handle, cut off pieces about the size of an 
 egg. Roll them out long with your hands till evenly 
 round like sticks, and twist them slightly. Lay them on 
 buttered platters till cold. Then sift sugar over them. 
 
Desserts. 
 
 289 
 
 Desserts Prepared Quickly. 
 
 Whipped Cream in glasses with 
 
 Cake. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 Baked Apples with "Whipped 
 
 Cream, or an uncooked M e- 
 
 ringuc poured over the tops. 
 Batter Pudding. 
 Vanities. 
 German Puffs. 
 Rice Puffs. 
 Boiled Rice, with raisins, 
 
 served hot with Sauce. 
 Hidden Apples. 
 Boiled Custard. 
 Floating Island (all kinds). 
 Nonsense. 
 
 Stewed Fruit with Cake. 
 Fruit of all kinds. 
 Nuts and Raisins. 
 Dates and Figs with Crackers. 
 
 Junket. 
 
 Berry or Fruit Charlotte. 
 
 Snow Balls. 
 
 Tipsy Parson. 
 
 Apple Meringue (Simple). 
 
 Sea Moss Blanc Mange. 
 
 Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. 
 
 Preserves and Cake or Crack- 
 ers. 
 
 Queen's Toast. 
 
 Fritters (various kinds). 
 
 Mock Doughnuts. 
 
 Fruit Short Cake. 
 
 Bread boiled in Molasses. 
 
 Cake, cut in squares, with Ger- 
 man Sauce poured over, and 
 Lemonade served with it. 
 
 Pancakes. 
 
 Gingerbread Pudding. 
 
 Ambrosia. 
 
 Desserts Without Milk. 
 
 Brown Betty. 
 
 Fruit and Berry Charlotte. 
 
 Pies (many kinds). 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Apple Snow. 
 
 Tapioca, Kice and Sago Blanc 
 
 Mange. 
 Lemon Jelly. 
 
 Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. 
 Wine Jelly. 
 Cider Jelly. 
 Claret Jelly. 
 
 Gingerbread Pudding. 
 Sponge Cake. 
 
 Corn Bread with Hot Sauce. 
 Apple or Berry and Tapioca 
 
 Pudding. 
 
 Marlborough Pudding. 
 Nonsense. 
 Pound Cake. 
 Coffee Cake. 
 Gingerbread. 
 Ginger Snaps. 
 Raspberry Trifle. 
 
TEA. 
 
 Suggestions for Tea. 
 
 Toast of all kinds. 
 Savory Toast. 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 Kamakin Toast. 
 Cracker and Milk Toast. 
 Bread and Milk, (boiled). 
 Bread boiled in Molasses. 
 Tea Cakes, Muffins, etc. 
 Fritters of all kinds. 
 Waffles. 
 Welsh Rarebit. 
 Cheese Fondue. 
 Cottage Cheese. 
 Cold Meat, sliced thin. 
 Cold Tongue. 
 Smoked Beef (shaved). 
 Cold Grated Ham. 
 Devilled Ham or Chicken. 
 Pressed Meats (all kinds). 
 Stewed Kidneys. 
 Poultry Hash. 
 Sweet-Breads. 
 Croquettes (all kinds') . 
 Sandwiches and Rolled Sand- 
 wiches. 
 Fried Chicken. 
 Quail on Toast. 
 Wild Birds on Toast. 
 
 Eggs in various ways. 
 
 Smoked Halibut. 
 
 Smoked Herrings. 
 
 Sardines. 
 
 Canned Salmon (various ways). 
 
 Stewed Codfish. 
 
 Codfish Puff. 
 
 Fresh Fish. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Salads of various kinds. 
 
 Corn Pudding. 
 
 Baked Rice. 
 
 Potatoes, Baked. 
 
 " Stuffed. 
 
 " Fried. 
 
 " Saratoga. 
 
 " Mattre d'hoteL 
 
 " RechauffSe. 
 
 " Lyonnaise. 
 . " With Giblets. 
 
 " With Gravy. 
 
 " Stewed. 
 
 " Escaloped. 
 Radishes. 
 Tomatoes, Raw. 
 " Baked. 
 Stuffed. 
 Spiced Fish. 
 
 290 
 
Bread. 291 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 BEMARKS. 
 
 Use none but good yeast and flour for making bread. 
 
 The new brands of flour vary very much ; and some, 
 though equally good, require more wetting than others. 
 Notice the first baking; if too stiff, put in a little more 
 water the next time, and remember exactly how much 
 you used. 
 
 The flour should be sifted, and put in a warm, dry 
 place several hours before mixing. This is particularly 
 important in cold weather, as the bread will rise much 
 better for having the chill taken off the flour. 
 
 To mix bread, put in all the dry things first, then the 
 shortening, then the yeast (which must be shaken hard 
 before it is taken from the bottle or jar). Lastly, add the 
 water. This should be strictly tepid; for if cold, the bread 
 will not rise well, and if hot, there will be danger of scald- 
 ing the yeast, which spoils its efficacy. 
 
 When intending to set bread, be sure that the kettle 
 is boiling, so that you can have the water of any tempera- 
 ture desired. The best time to mix bread is about 
 seven o'clock in the evening, in cold weather ; and ten 
 o'clock in hot weather. It rises faster then than in win- 
 ter, and if left standing too long, it will sour. When the 
 ingredients are thoroughly mixed, either beat hard with a 
 strong, long-handled spoon, or, if you find this too hard 
 work, knead, in the pan, with floured hands. The ob- 
 jection to the latter is, that one is apt to work in too 
 much flour. The softer the dough, the better. 
 
 Remove the spoon, and cover the pan, which must of 
 course be a large one, to give room for the dough to rise. 
 Set it in a pretty warm place, and where no draught will 
 strike it; not on a chair, as many- do, but nearer the ceil- 
 ing ; for instance, on top of a closet, or the heater of the 
 range, for the upper part of a room is less liable to sudden 
 
292 How to Cook Well 
 
 changes of temperature in the night. Let it rise till 
 morning. 
 
 The first thing in the morning, see whether it is light. 
 If it is, and you cannot attend to it, check the further 
 rising, by setting it in a cool place, to wait until you can 
 do so. If not light enough, set it in a warmer place to 
 rise more rapidly. 
 
 To judge whether the dough is light, tip the pan. 
 If it looks bubbly or spongy all through, it is light ; and 
 the bread should be made out into loaves as soon as possi- 
 ble. If it rises too long, it will become sour or tough. If 
 it is sour, mix in half a teaspoonful of soda (dissolved) 
 before taking it from the pan. 
 
 When you are going to make out the bread, have 
 everything ready before you put your hands in the dough. 
 Place the bread-board on the table, with a pan of flour 
 and a knife. Grease the baking-pans, which should be 
 deep and square. Scatter flour thickly on the board, and 
 then turn the dough upon it. With the knife, well-floured, 
 chop rapidly the entire surface of the dough, having pre- 
 viously scattered flour thickly over the top. 
 
 With floured hands turn and double over the edges of 
 the dough, repeating the chopping. Do this until the en- 
 tire mass has been thoroughly chopped. You will have 
 to put more flour on the board to prevent the dough from 
 sticking, but the less flour used the better. Experience 
 will soon teach how to handle the dough rapidly, without 
 using much flour. 
 
 Then knead all the dough a few times, working it and 
 turning it thoroughly. Strength and dexterity are the 
 chief requisites for good kneading. Every part of the 
 dough must be thoroughly manipulated. Thrust your 
 fists, first one and then the other, quickly and with force 
 into the dough, directing your strokes towards the centre 
 of the mass. As it flattens out, fold it again and again. 
 
Bread. 293 
 
 Repeat the striking and the folding for twenty min- 
 utes, until every part has been beaten and worked. 
 Thorough kneading shows itself in the fineness and even- 
 ness of the grain of the bread. Careless kneading will 
 produce boles and an uneven texture. 
 
 A good rule for telling when the dough has been 
 kneaded enough, is to give it a hard blow with the 
 knuckles ; if it returns to its place, and is elastic like a 
 hollow rubber ball, it has been worked enough, and may 
 be cut into portions, and made into loaves. 
 
 N. B. Many persons omit the chopping, and simply 
 knead longer. But this is both fatiguing and tedious. 
 
 To make the loaves, simply shape the dough as nearly 
 as you can to fit the pans. Fill them less than two thirds 
 full if the dough is soft; half-full if stiff, for there is 
 then more body to rise. Press it well into the corners of 
 the pans. Cover with a cloth, and set in a warm place to 
 rise. This may take an hour. 
 
 (N. B. If the dough is soft, as it should be, it will rise 
 more quickly than if a great deal of flour has been worked 
 in in the kneading. In the latter case it may take more 
 than an hour to rise.) 
 
 When light, it will be nearly up to the top of the pan, 
 and will look spongy at the sides. It should then be put 
 into the oven at once, or it will become sour by rising too 
 long, and will also be in danger of running over the top 
 of the pans when in the oven. Prick the top of each 
 loaf with a fork, and wet the surface with your hand dip- 
 ped in cold water, to make it brown well, and to prevent 
 the crust becoming hard. 
 
 When baked take it out at once ; stand it up on end 
 against the wall in such a way that the bread will rest 
 on an edge, not on one of its flat surfaces, which would 
 make it soggy. Lay a wet cloth over it, with a dry one 
 outside to soften the crust. 
 
294 How to Cook Well 
 
 To Bake Bread- 
 Arrange the oven as for roasting meat. If too hot at 
 first, the loaves will burn on the outside and be doughy 
 inside. At the end of fifteen minutes the bread should 
 have risen up and begun to brown. Turn the pans occa- 
 sionally, so that it will bake evenly, and watch it closely to 
 avoid burning. If the top is in danger of burning, lay a 
 thick paper over it, or set a pan of cold water in the oven. 
 Turn the pans often. If the loaves are small they will 
 bake in one hour. When done, the sides of the loaves 
 will shrink from the pans. Take out of the pans at once, 
 and if pale on the bottom, put instantly back in the oven. 
 Take care to keep the heat steady while baking. Put 
 on plenty of coal to last till the baking is done, before the 
 bread goes into the oven ; never put it on while baking, 
 as it will check the heat, and make heavy streaks in the 
 bread. For small loaves a hotter oven is required than 
 for large ones. 
 
 Bread made with a " Sponge." 
 
 4 quarts flour. 
 " Sponge." 
 A little salt. 
 
 | teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 cupful lard. 
 
 Warm milk, or water. 
 
 For four medium-sized loaves use the whole of the 
 " sponge " made according to directions. At seven 
 o'clock at night in summer, and at ten in winter, put 
 four quarts of flour in your bread-pan. Make a hole in 
 the middle and pour in the sponge. Stir into it a part of 
 the flour and let it rise till morning, when it should be 
 light. Then put in the salt, soda and lard, stirring them 
 in with enough warm milk, or water, to enable you to 
 knead it. Knead thoroughly, and set to rise. When 
 light, knead again for ten or fifteen minutes. If you re- 
 peat this, it improves the bread. Then put into pans, set 
 to rise again, and when light, bake as above. 
 
 This will make four large loaves. 
 
Bread. 295 
 
 Bread made with Potatoes, 
 
 3 medium-sized potatoes. 
 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 corn meal yeast-cake. 
 
 Boil the potatoe^ about one o'clock p. M., and mash 
 while hot, saving the water in which they were boiled. 
 Add the salt and flour. When well mixed, stir in enough 
 of the potato water to make a pretty thick batter. If too 
 thin it will not rise. Let it cool, and when it is lukewarm 
 (not cold) add the yeast-cake, dissolved in half a cupful of 
 lukewarm water. 
 
 (N. B. One yeast-cake will be sufficient in summer, 
 but in winter use one and a half. If the yeast-cakes are 
 not fresh use more in each case.) 
 
 Beat all together hard, and set to rise (covered) for 
 about five hours in a warm place. By night it will be 
 light and spongy; then stir in enough flour to make a soft 
 dough. Beat well again till it ceases to stick to the spoon, 
 and leave it to rise over night. In the morning knead in 
 the pan. Do not get it stiff. Let it rise again for four 
 or five hours. When light, mix in half a teaspoonful of 
 soda (dissolved in one tablespoon ful hot water). Then 
 knead on the board, and make into loaves. Let them rise 
 about one hour till light. Then bake as above. 
 Makes five large loaves. 
 
 N. B. In warm weather do not set the first rising or 
 " sponge " till four o'clock P. M. Then the second rising 
 will not begin till nine or ten o'clock, and the bread will 
 not be likely to sour over night. 
 
 Bread (with Compressed Yeast). 
 
 3 quarts flour. 
 
 li tablespoonfuls salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful lard or butter (softened). 
 
 li quarts warm water. 
 
 4 cake compressed yeast. 
 
 Dissolve the yeast in half a cupful of the water. Stir 
 
296 How to Cook Well. 
 
 together the ingredients in the order given, with a strong 
 spoon, and a strong arm. Beat hard and long, until the 
 dough ceases to stick to the spoon. Cover the pan, and 
 set to rise over night. Early in the morning, stir it down 
 with a spoon. Take out at once, on the bread-board, and 
 with a little flour make it into loaves. Let it stand in the 
 pans in a warm place until light, then bake about one 
 hour, according to the size of the loaf. 
 
 This will make four loaves, and is very light, spongy 
 bread. It rises faster than other kinds. If set at ten in the 
 morning, it will be ready to bake by five in the afternoon. 
 
 Bread with Potato Yeast, or Baker's Yeast. 
 
 {8 cupf uls flour. 
 1 tablespoonf ul salt. 
 2 tablespoonf uls sugar (may be omitted). 
 1 tablespoonful shortening. 
 3 cupfuls tepid water. 
 1 cupful "Kaw Potato Yeast" (shaken). 
 
 Mix, and make like the above. Makes two loaves. 
 
 Bread Made Quickly. 
 
 (Miss Carson's Method, Condensed.) 
 
 1 cake compressed yeast. 
 
 2 cupfuls water, warm. 
 
 4 cupfuls flour. 
 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 
 
 The yeast-cake should be about half an inch thick, 
 and two inches long by one wide. Dissolve it in one cup- 
 ful of water at a temperature of about ninety-eight degrees 
 Fahrenheit. Put into a bread-pan with one cupful of the 
 flour, or enough to make a batter which will hold a drop 
 let fall from the spoon. 
 
 Beat until quite smooth, then cover, and place where a 
 moderate degree of heat will strike it equally. To effect 
 this, turn the pan frequently, and never allow it to get so 
 hot that the hand cannot be borne upon the outside of 
 the bowl with perfect comfort. 
 
Bread. 297 
 
 Strict attention must be paid to this point, to ensure 
 success. If the heat is too great, it will scald the sponge, 
 and prevent fermentation. In about half an hour, it will 
 be like a thick foam, full of air-bubbles. 
 
 Then mix with it the salt, dissolved in a second cupful 
 of the lukewarm water, and add about three cupfuls more 
 of flour, or enough to make a soft dough. Put it on a 
 floured board, and knead for about five minutes, or until 
 it no longer sticks to the board or hands, and looks smooth. 
 Divide the dough into two parts, and put into two but- 
 tered Russia-iron bread-pans. Cover with a folded towel, 
 and place the pans where the same gentle heat will strike 
 them, turning them often to ensure an even rising, and 
 taking care not to have them too hot. When the dough 
 has risen to twice its original volume, brush over with 
 melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Plain Graham Bread. 
 
 2 cupfuls " sponge." 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful salt. 
 
 Graham flour to make a soft 
 dough. 
 
 Mix together. Beat hard and set to rise, proceeding as 
 with white bread. Immediately before putting it in the 
 oven, wash over the top of each loaf with water. Bake in 
 a moderate oven about one hour. 
 
 Makes three loaves. 
 
 Superior Graham Bread. 
 
 I quart Graham flour (not 
 sifted). 
 
 1 pint white flour. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful butter or lard 
 (softened) . 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 2 cupfuls tepid water. 
 
 1 cupful yeast (shaken). 
 
 Mix and make like other bread. Makes two small 
 loaves. 
 
298 
 
 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls molasses. 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 cupful corn meal. 
 
 2 cupfuls rye or Graham flour 
 
 (or better still, one of each). 
 1 teaspoonful salt. I 
 
 Mix in this order. With a spoon beat hard. Butter a 
 large tin pail or pudding-boiler. Put in the mixture, 
 filling the pail only half-full. Tie down the cover and 
 set the pail into a pot of boiling water. Do not let the 
 water reach to the top of the pail, as no water must be 
 allowed to get inside. Boil steadily for three hours. See 
 " To Boil Puddings." At the end of three hours uncover 
 the pail, and set it in a warm oven for half an hour to dry. 
 To warm over, see "Boiled Puddings." This is the 
 boasted brown bread of Boston, which is expected on 
 Sundays with baked beans. 
 
 Steamed Brown Bread. 
 
 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 
 
 1 cupful corn meal. 
 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 i cupful molasses. 
 
 i cupful butter (melted) . 
 
 Mix and beat hard. 
 Brown Bread." 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1| cupfuls sour milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 Steam three hours, as in " Boston 
 
 Stick Bread. 
 (For Luncheon or Dinner.} 
 
 | cupful yeast (shaken). 
 
 f i tablespoonful butter. 
 1 1 cupful milk (scalded). 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 li tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 4 tablespoonful salt. 
 
 Mix together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Add the 
 milk (with the butter melted in it) when cooled till tepid. 
 Knead well in the pan, adding no more flour than is nec- 
 essary. The dough will seem very stiff, but do not add 
 more wetting. Cover, and rise over night in a warm 
 place. 
 
Bread. 299 
 
 Tn the morning, when very light, put it on the board. 
 Cut off a piece of dough rather larger than an egg. With 
 the palms of both hands roll it on the board till one foot 
 long and evenly round, having the hands buttered in- 
 stead of floured. Lay the rolls in a greased dripping-pan 
 about one inch apart. Let them rise till light. Then 
 wash the entire surface with melted butter, and bake in a 
 hot oven about fifteen minutes. 
 
 This is the proper size for Stick Bread, but I think it 
 is easier to manage, both in making and serving, if each 
 stick is (before rising) about as large around as your mid- 
 dle finger, and twice the length. Then, each one can be 
 rolled in a plate of melted butter before putting it in the 
 pan, w r hich makes the crust very crisp and delicate. 
 
 Eat fresh, laying one at each person's place at dinner, 
 or on a plate at luncheon. 
 
 Braid of Bread. 
 
 Make like Stick Bread, but form larger and longer 
 rolls. Lay three of them side by side. Pinch the top ends 
 together and braid. Lay in a pan, and rise to tw r ice its origi- 
 nal bulk. Bake in a hot oven about twenty-five minutes. 
 
 REMARKS ON ROLLS, ETC. 
 
 If you use milk for rolls which are set with yeast, it 
 must be sweet (new if possible). As the long rising is 
 liable to sour the milk, it is a good plan always to scald 
 it, allowing it afterwards to cool down to the right tem- 
 perature before mixing with the yeast. 
 
 Rolls, even more than bread, should be of a soft consist- 
 ency. If you get in too much flour, they will not be 
 light. When they are light, flour your hands, and knead 
 the dough in the pan a little. Then either flour or but- 
 ter your fingers (the latter is best), and take out a piece 
 of dough the size of a small egg. Work it a few times, 
 doubling the edges into the middle ; shape it nicely, and 
 put it in a deep pan, well greased. Continue in this way 
 
300 How to Cook Well. 
 
 till the dough is all used up. Leave room in the pan for 
 the rolls to rise to twice their original height, unless set far 
 apart, in which case they will spread sideways. Set them 
 to rise in a warm place till light. If set close together, 
 they will crack apart when light. If far apart, tear a 
 little place at the side ; if spongy inside, they are light. 
 
 Rolls must be baked in a quick oven. The sudden 
 heat when first put in will cause them to rise well, and 
 they will be more tender than if baked slowly. They 
 should be done in half an hour, or less. Take out in- 
 stantly when done, so that the crust will not harden. If 
 there is danger of the top crust becoming hard before the 
 bottom is done, cover with a thick piece of paper. If 
 this is not sufficient, put a pan of cold water on the oven 
 shelf just over the rolls. 
 
 Bolls (of Bread-Dough). 
 
 1 quart light bread-dough. 1 1 tablespoonf ul sugar. 
 
 Butter or lard (size of an egg). | 
 
 When you are making the bread into loaves set apart 
 about one quart of the dough for rolls for tea. Knead it 
 and work in the shortening and sugar. Let it rise till 
 light (about five hours), then set in a cold place till about 
 three hours before tea. Then make out into small rolls 
 (about the size of an egg), and let them rise in the pan 
 till twice their original height. It will probably take two 
 hours. (If you prefer, cut with a biscuit-cutter.) 
 
 Bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. These are 
 quickly and easily made, and are quite as good as more 
 elaborate rolls. 
 
 Parker House Rolls. 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 1 tablespoonful lard or but- 
 ter. 
 
 \ cupful yeast, shaken. 
 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 1 cupful boiled milk (cooled). 
 
 Rub the shortening into the flour. Make a hole in the 
 
Bread. 301 
 
 middle of the flour, into which put all the other ingredi- 
 ents, previously mixed together, taking care to have the 
 milk tepid. Do not stir these into the flour, but let them 
 stand over night just so. In the morning stir all the in- 
 gredients well together, and knead thoroughly in the pan, 
 adding a little more milk (about half a cupful), and work- 
 ing in only just enough flour to keep the dough from 
 sticking to your hands. Let it rise again till about one 
 o'clock, then knead again on the bread-board, and roll it 
 out about half an inch thick. Spread the surface of the 
 whole with melted butter, then sprinkle with flour. Cut 
 out in large rounds (as large as a coffee-cup) and fold each 
 one over nearly in half. In putting them in the pan do 
 not crowd them. Leave them to rise about half an hour. 
 Bake in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Take 
 them out the instant they are done. This makes a drip- 
 ping-pan full. 
 
 Concord Tea Rolls. 
 
 1 pint new milk. 
 
 1 large table spoonful butter. 
 
 2 quarts flour. 
 
 2 teaspoon fuls salt. 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 1 cupful yeast, shaken. 
 
 Heat slightly the first two ingredients in the bread-pan, 
 add the other things in order. Knead in the pan after 
 mixing, taking care not to get the dough too stiff. Cover 
 the pan, and leave it to rise for about five hours ; till very 
 spongy all through. Then mould with buttered hands 
 into nicely shaped long rolls, using a piece of dough the 
 size of a small egg for each one. Set close together with- 
 out crowding, cover the pan with paper and let them 
 rise in a warm place from fifteen to thirty minutes. Wet 
 the tops with milk and sugar just before putting in the 
 oven. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a hot oven, 
 taking care not to let them harden on top. Makes a 
 dripping-pan full. 
 
302 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Potato Biscuit. 
 
 4 large potatoes. 
 1 quart hot water. 
 A little salt. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 
 
 Flour. 
 
 1 cupful potato yeast (scant) . 
 
 Pare and boil the potatoes in the water, and when 
 tender, mash them in it. While hot, add the salt and 
 butter, and flour enough to make a very stiff batter, put- 
 ting in the flour gradually. Add the yeast, when 
 the batter is nearly cold (it should be tepid), and 
 beat very hard. Cover and set to rise. When light, 
 add flour to make a soft dough ; only just stiff enough to 
 roll out on the board. Knead it slightly ; roll out and 
 cut into biscuit half an inch thick. Put them in the pan, 
 without touching each other, and set to rise in a warm 
 place. They will rise fast, and be very light. 
 
 Bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. 
 
 If you wish them for tea, set them about noon ; if for 
 breakfast, the night before. 
 
 N. B. Improved by the addition of three eggs, beaten 
 light, and stirred in just after the yeast. 
 
 Swedish Rolls. 
 
 4 cupf uls light bread-dough, 
 i cupful butter. 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (whites only). 
 1 teaspoonf ul cinnamon, 
 i cupful sugar. 
 
 Knead together the dough, butter and sugar. Let it 
 stand and rise till very light (probably five hours). Then 
 take out on the bread-board. Cut off a bit of dough as 
 large as an egg. With the palms of the hands roll it out 
 long and thin, and evenly round. It should be about as 
 large around as your finger, and of about two fingers' 
 length. Take hold at both ends, and twist the strip a lit- 
 tle. Lay it out long on the board. Lay a bit of butter 
 on the middle of the strip or roll. Fold over one of the 
 ends (from right to left) on to it, forming a circle ; fold 
 the other end to meet that, turning it from left to right. 
 
Bread. 303 
 
 You will then have a figure like a printed eight. Do not 
 make them too large, for they will rise larger in baking. 
 Join the ends neatly. 
 
 Have ready the whites of the eggs (beaten a little) in 
 one plate ; and the cinnamon and sugar (mixed together) 
 in another. As each roll is formed, dip it (on the neat 
 under side) first into the egg, then into the cinnamon and 
 sugar. Put at once into a greased dripping-pan, the 
 sugared side up. Do not lay them very close together ; 
 four to each row will be close enough. Let them rise in 
 the pan till very light (about one hour). Bake in a very 
 hot oven about twenty minutes. 
 
 This makes thirty-two rolls ; or two dripping-pans full. 
 These rolls are as delicious as they are dainty and pretty. 
 
 Graham Biscuit. 
 
 1 cupful Graham flour. 
 1 cupful white flour, 
 li teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 table spoonful melted butter, 
 cupful sweet milk, 
 cupful yeast. 
 
 i cupful brown sugar. 
 
 Mix in this order, warming the milk and butter 
 slightly. After beating hard, set to rise, over night. 
 The next morning add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved 
 in a little hot water. Turn the dough out on the bread- 
 board ; roll it out (adding more flour if necessary) one inch 
 thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Set them a little 
 apart in the pan, and put in a warm place (covered with 
 a paper) to rise for one hour. Then bake in a rather 
 quick oven about twenty minutes. 
 
 Buns, 
 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 1 table spoonful butter. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls yeast. 
 
 1 quart flour (more or less) . 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 
 i cupful Zante currants. 
 
 Mix the buns in the evening. Warm the milk and 
 butter till tepid. Add the yeast (well shaken), flour and 
 
304 How to Cook Well 
 
 salt, using only enough flour to make a thick batter. 
 Beat hard, and set to rise (covered) in a warm place. In 
 the morning it should be light ; i. e., bubbly all through. 
 Add, then, the eggs, sugar, currants (washed, dried, and 
 rubbed in flour) and flour enough to enable you to knead 
 the dough in the pan, not on the board. About three 
 cupfuls of flour will be enough. Let it stand till light again 
 (about five hours). Then make into buns with floured 
 hands, using a piece of dough the size of a small egg, for 
 each one. Crowd close together in a deep pan, which 
 will allow them to rise three times their original height. 
 They should rise in the pan for about four hours more, 
 which will bring it nearly to tea-time. When they begin 
 to crack apart from each other, they are ready to bake. 
 Wet the tops with molasses and water, and put at once 
 into a hot oven. Bake about fifteen minutes, covering 
 the top of the pan with a thick paper when half-done. 
 Makes thirty buns. Omit the currants if you choose. 
 
 Nonpareil Rusk. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 1 teaspoouful salt. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 cupful milk (warmed). 
 
 1 cupful potato yeast. 
 
 i cupful butter (warmed). 
 
 3 eggs, reserving the white of 
 
 one. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 Mix the rusk in the evening. Beat well together the 
 first five ingredients. Set to rise, covered, in a warm 
 place over night. In the morning add the butter, eggs, 
 (beaten light), the rest of the sugar, and lastly the soda. 
 After that is mixed in, notice whether the dough smells 
 sour. If so, add a little more soda. Add flour enough to 
 make a decidedly stiff batter. Beat hard, and set to rise 
 again for about four hours ; till light. It will then look 
 spongy all through. 
 
 Turn out on to the bread-board, and roll into a sheet 
 about one inch thick. Add only just enough flour to be 
 
Tea. 305 
 
 able to handle the dough. Cut into small circles. Set 
 close together in a large deep pan, and leave to rise again 
 with the pan covered with paper. It will probably be as 
 long as two hours before they are light. When they are 
 ready to be baked they will crack apart and look spongy 
 at the sides. Do not let them wait after this; but at 
 once beat the reserved white of the egg slightly, add to it 
 one tablespoonful of sugar, and with this wash over the top 
 of the rusk. Put into a hot oven, and bake a delicate 
 brown, in about fifteen minutes. When half-done cover 
 the top of the pan with paper, so that the crust will not 
 be hard. 
 
 Baking-Powder Biscuit. 
 
 {1 quart flour. 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking powder. 
 2 tablespoonfuls shortening. 
 2 cupfuls milk. 
 
 Measure very accurately. Have the mixing-bowl and 
 ingredients as cold as possible. Sift all the dry things 
 together before putting in the shortening (butter and 
 lard mixed are best^ Take a knife in each hand and 
 chop till the shortening has almost disappeared in the 
 flour, which looks like coarse sand. (This process seems 
 troublesome, but you will soon learn to do it quickly, and 
 the superior lightness and flakiness of the biscuit will be 
 an ample reward.) Lastly stir in the milk. With some 
 brands of flour more or less milk may be needed than is 
 given in the receipt. You ought to make the dough as 
 soft as possible to handle. 
 
 Turn out on a bread-board and roll out as quickly and 
 lightly as possible, barely touching with your hands. 
 Just as soon as the dough will hold together, cut into 
 rounds one inch thick ; put into a warm buttered pan and 
 bake at once in a hot oven, not more than ten or fifteen 
 
306 How to Cook Well 
 
 minutes. Eat while hot; but they are also very good 
 cold. 
 
 N. B. If you have pastry flour, use that in preference 
 to any other for these biscuit. One teaspoonful of soda and 
 two of cream of tartar may be substituted for baking-pow- 
 der. 
 
 Makes a dripping-pan two thirds full. 
 
 Currant Biscuit. 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 4 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 
 
 1 teaspoonful salt. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls sugar. 
 A little nutmeg. 
 
 Butter size of a large egg. 
 
 cupful Zante currants. 
 
 Milk to make a soft dough (about one pint.) 
 
 Mix like " Baking-Powder Biscuit," reserving a little of 
 the flour in which to rub the currants. These should be 
 put in just before the milk. 
 
 Cut out with an oval cutter if you have one, and bake 
 in a quick oven about twenty minutes. 
 
 Maryland Biscuit. 
 
 2 quarts flour. 
 
 4 teaspoonfuls salt. 
 
 4 flat tablespoonf uls lard. 
 
 Water only just enough to make 
 a very stiff dough. 
 
 Chop the shortening into the salted flour ; stir in the 
 water gradually so as not to get in too much. Knead 
 the dough hard for half an hour ; until it is pliable. Then 
 beat it with the rolling-pin till the dough cracks loudly, 
 when a piece is suddenly pulled off. It will take about 
 one hour. Then form with the hand into round balls and 
 pat them down till about half an inch thick. Prick the 
 tops with a fork, and bake at once in a very hot oven for 
 
Bread. 307 
 
 twenty minutes. On no account shorten the process of 
 kneading and pounding, as the success of the biscuit 
 depends upon this. 
 
 Wafers or Unleavened Biscuit. 
 
 Dry in a warm place two quarts of flour for one hour 
 before you use it. Add then about one and a half tea- 
 spoonfuls salt, and water enough to form a stiff dough. 
 Roll it out very thin, hardly thicker than letter-paper. 
 Cut into large rounds with a saucer; lay them a little 
 apart in a cookey-pan, prick with a fork, and bake five 
 minutes in a very hot oven. 
 
 Much relished by invalids, and nice to serve with oysters. 
 
 Crackers. 
 
 2 pounds light bread-dough. I i pound flour. 
 6 ounces butter (softened). | 
 
 Work the butter and flour into the dough till perfectly 
 smooth. Roll out on a bread-board ; pound for a long 
 time with a rolling-pin, rolling it out several times. Roll 
 out finally rather thin (about as thick as for cookies), and 
 cut into crackers with a biscuit-cutter or something 
 smaller. Prick the top of the crackers and set them to 
 rise in a shallow baking-pan till light. 
 
 Bake in a very hot oven. 
 
 When done break them apart, and put them in the top 
 oven or heater to dry. 
 
 USES FOR PIECES OF BREAD AND CRUMBS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 I will preface these remarks by saying that by a little 
 judicious management there is no need to have an accu- 
 mulation of broken bread. In the first place, fresh bread 
 should not be baked till the old is very nearly gone. 
 (Always reserve a little of the old for the sake of the 
 
308 How to Cook Well. 
 
 children, who should not be allowed to eat that which is 
 freshly baked.) Then, in cutting bread for the table, 
 do not cut more than will probably be eaten. A good 
 way to do in a small family is to have but one plate of 
 sliced bread on the table, and to have the loaf on also, 
 on one of the pretty wooden plates which come for the 
 purpose ; then more can be cut as it is needed. 
 
 But when pieces are left over, on no account allow 
 them to be wasted. If you cannot use them while fresh, 
 put them at once into a pail kept always standing in the 
 heater of your stove (or some other dry warm place) for 
 this purpose. Throw also into the bread-crumb-pail any 
 crumbs you may have, or clean broken bread left from 
 table. (Do not think these things too trifling to be 
 attended to. After slicing bread for tea, there will often 
 be as much as half a cupful of crumbs left on the board, 
 and it is as easy to scrape them into a pail as into the 
 fire.) Let all dry out together, and once a week or 
 oftener, roll them with a rolling-pin as fine as flour, or 
 nearly so. Put them away in a tin box, covered, and 
 keep them always ready for anything requiring bread- 
 crumbs. Remember, that for anything that needs wetting, 
 such as a bread pudding, more is required to soak these 
 dried crumbs than fresh ones. 
 
 Pieces of bread dried at once in the way above de- 
 scribed will never become mouldy, however long they 
 may be kept. 
 
 Beyond will be found a list of things to choose from, 
 when there is a quantity of bread to be used up. The 
 above remarks on economy refer only to bread which 
 is good. Heavy, Slack-baked or Sour Bread requires 
 a different treatment. The first is hopeless. Slack-baked 
 bread too is unwholesome ; but if only slightly so, it can 
 be improved by cutting it into thick slices, and spreading 
 it out on tins in a moderate oven for several hours. Turn 
 
Bread. 309 
 
 it, and when broWn on both sides treat like "Dipped- 
 Toast," or serve dry with butter. 
 
 Sour bread is simply horrible. Do not on any account 
 practise economy in this case. Lavishly waste the whole 
 baking, unless you have a chance to dispose of it on a 
 beggar whose palate may not be as sensitive as your own. 
 If obliged to eat it, however, you can try to improve it, 
 by making it into Dipped and Milk Toast, and dissolving 
 a little soda in the water or milk. Use part of it for a 
 bread pudding, and add soda. 
 
 To Freshen Stale Bread. 
 
 Dip the loaf (or slices of bread or rolls) into cold water. 
 Do not let it soak, but simply become wet. Lay it on a 
 pan in a hot oven till the moisture is absorbed, and the 
 bread is hot. Eat at once, for it will not keep after 
 being treated in this way. 
 
 Stale corn-bread, gems, muffins and cake may be suc- 
 cessfully freshened in the same way. 
 
 Bread Boiled in Molasses. 
 
 Cut thin slices of stale bread, and butter them. Lay 
 them in a frying-pan and pour over them enough molasses 
 to cover well. When the molasses has boiled a few min- 
 utes, serve very hot. This is wholesome for children in 
 winter, and furnishes a simple dessert for them. 
 
 A List of Uses for Pieces of Bread. 
 
 Toast (of all kinds). 
 
 Toast Sandwiches. 
 Toast under Hash. [Chicken. 
 Toast under Warmed-over 
 Toast under Eggs. 
 
 " " Welsh Rarebit. 
 
 " " Oysters. 
 
 " " Canned Salmon. 
 Croutons for Soup. 
 Bread with Sausages. 
 Bread Panada. 
 
 Bread and Milk. 
 
 Bread Boiled in Molasses. 
 
 Bread Fritters. 
 
 Bread Pudding. 
 
 Apple or Berry Charlotte. 
 
 Pan Dowdy. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding. 
 
 Queen's Toast. 
 
 Spanish Toast. 
 
 Lemon Toast. 
 
 Bread Pates. 
 
310 
 
 How to Cook Well. 
 
 A List of Uses 
 Bread Pudding. 
 Spiced Bread Pudding. 
 Francateili Pudding. 
 Hasting' s Pudding. 
 Canned Salmon, Baked. 
 Plum Pudding. 
 Brown Betty. 
 Bread Griddle Cakes. 
 Bread Sauce. 
 Stuffing for Poultry. 
 
 *' " Beef a la mode. 
 
 " " Veal. 
 
 " " Mock Duck. 
 
 " " Stuffed Beefsteak. 
 
 " " Fish. 
 
 for Bread-Crumbs. 
 
 Stuffing for Egg-plant. 
 
 " " Stuffed Tomatoes. 
 Fried Mutton Chops. 
 Fried Oysters. 
 Croquettes. 
 
 Devilled Lobster or Crab. 
 Escaloped Oysters. 
 Escaloped Clams. 
 Escaloped Tomatoes. 
 To Thicken Tomatoes. 
 Escaloped Eggs and Meat. 
 Baked Eggs a la Creme. 
 French Omelet. 
 Chicken Panada. 
 Jellied Veal. 
 
 TOAST, 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Dry Toast is the foundation for every other kind, 
 therefore read over the directions for that before trying 
 any other. Many persons think that nothing is easier 
 than to make a good slice of toast, but a piece of bread 
 cut anyhow, merely warmed, over any kind of a fire, and 
 brought to a sick person on a cold plate, will hardly 
 tempt his appetite. 
 
 Dry Toast. 
 
 Use bread at least a day old. Cut the slices evenly, 
 and rather thick. Put a plate into the heater to warm. 
 See that there are good hot coals on the top of your fire. 
 If not, rake off the dull ones from the top. Have the 
 bread all ready in a toaster or on the end of a fork. Hold 
 it as close to the coals as possible without its burning. 
 As soon as delicately browned on one side, turn on the 
 other. Put it instantly on a hot plate, cover with a nap- 
 kin and eat at once. If it stands long, covered, it will 
 
Bread. 311 
 
 become steamed. Therefore, do not make the toast for 
 tea till everything else is ready. If it is for a sick person, 
 do not try to save trouble by putting the butter on one 
 side of the same plate with the toast. Either butter the 
 slice delicately before covering, or take the butter on a 
 cold butter-plate. In making toast for tea it is best not 
 to begin to make it till the family are assembled, for it is 
 an entirely erroneous idea that toast eaten cold is more 
 wholesome than that which is hot. 
 
 Boston Brown-Bread when stale, makes good toast, 
 and is delicious served with oysters. 
 
 Dipped Toast. 
 
 Have the tea-kettle boiling. Make toast as above. 
 Quickly dip each slice into a pan of boiling water. Do 
 not let it soak, but remove as soon as every part is wet. 
 Sprinkle on a little salt, and butter judiciously / not lay- 
 ing lamps of butter in the middle of the slices and leav- 
 ing the crusts dry. Pile on a hot plate, cover and eat hot. 
 
 Some persons merely pour hot water over the bread, 
 but this is apt to leave the crusts hard while the centre 
 is soggy. 
 
 Milk Toast. 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 
 
 3 tablespoonf uls flour or corn- 
 starch. 
 
 1 tcaspoonful salt. 
 
 Put the milk to boil in a double-boiler (to prevent it from 
 scorching). When it begins to boil, stir in the butter cut 
 into small pieces ; do not stop stirring till all is melted. 
 Add the salt, and the flour (previously rubbed smooth in 
 a little cold milk). Stir again while it thickens. Then 
 set it back on the stove to keep hot, but not boil, till the 
 toast is ready. (See Dry Toast.) Lay the slices of toast 
 in a deep dish, taking care to soften the crusts first with 
 boiling water. Pour over each slice plenty of the thick- 
 ened milk. Serve covered. 
 
312 How to Cook Well. 
 
 What is left over will make a good bread-pudding by 
 adding milk, eggs, sugar and seasoning. 
 
 Cracker Milk Toast. 
 
 Exactly like " Milk Toast," substituting crackers for 
 bread. The crackers should stand soaking in salted boil- 
 ing water for a few minutes after being toasted. 
 
 This is a very appetizing dish and convenient if the 
 supply of bread is short. The best crackers to use are 
 Boston or Water crackers. Serve covered. Use what is 
 left over for a pudding, as above. 
 
 Cream Toast. 
 
 This is particularly delicious. Heat cream to the boil- 
 ing point, setting it within a kettle of boiling water to 
 prevent its curdling or scorching. Add a sprinkling 
 of salt. Make "Dry Toast." Put the slices in a deep 
 dish, pouring plenty of the cream over each one, and 
 serve covered. (Nice for an invalid.) 
 
 Queen's Toast. 
 
 Cut rather thick slices of bread (not fresh). Have 
 ready a tablespoonful of hot lard in a frying-pan. Fry the 
 bread quickly by putting the pan over the coals. Dip 
 each slice as soon as done, into a pan of boiling water 
 (to take out the grease), remove jnstantly, and pile on a 
 hot plate. Serve at once, either for tea or dessert, with 
 hot " Wine Sauce " poured over, or simply with butter and 
 cinnamon and sugar. 
 
 Spanish Toast. 
 
 Cut thick slices of bread (not fresh). Then prepare the 
 following mixture, 
 
 1 pint milk. I 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten. I teaspoonful salt (nearly). 
 
 Dip the slices in this for a moment. Then lay them in 
 a frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of hot lard. Fry 
 
Yeast. 813 
 
 quickly over the coals. Pile on a hot plate and serve for 
 tea or dessert, with "Wine Sauce," or with butter and 
 cinnamon and sugar. 
 
 Lemon Toast. 
 
 Make " Spanish Toast." Put into a deep dish, wetting 
 each slice with the following sauce, and pouring the rest 
 
 over the whole. 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 3 eggs (whites only). I 1 lemon (juice only), 
 
 i cupful white sugar. I 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 Beat the eggs stiff, add sugar, lemon-juice and boiling 
 water. 
 
 Serve hot for tea or dessert, letting each person sprinkle 
 the toast with sugar. 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 No directions are here given for making new yeast 
 without old yeast as an ingredient. Therefore in making 
 it be sure that you have good lively yeast to raise it with. 
 Borrow from a reliable neighbor if possible, the first time ; 
 and afterwards always save over a cupful of your own to 
 raise the next, as baker's yeast is very apt to be sour. 
 
 Do not make more yeast at one time than is given in 
 the receipts, for it will sour if kept too long. It is well 
 to make it fresh every six weeks. Care should be taken 
 to have the mixture of exactly the right temperature 
 when the old yeast is put into that which you are making. 
 It must not be either hot or cold, but between the two. 
 Never stir yeast with anything but a wooden or silver 
 spoon, for an iron one will turn it dark-colored. Set it to 
 rise, covered over, in a decidedly warm place where there 
 is no draught. It should rise rather fast, and on that 
 account it is best to make it in the morning, as the house 
 
314 How to Cook Well 
 
 is usually warmer through the day-time than at night, 
 If it does not rise sufficiently during the time given in 
 the receipts, stir it up once or twice from the bottom. 
 When it is light enough to bottle, it will have a thick 
 foam on top, and will be bubbly all through. Be sure 
 that the bottles (or jars) are perfectly sweet. They 
 should be scalded while the yeast is rising, and set together 
 in a large pan or waiter, so that if any runs over the top 
 of the bottles (as it may a few hours after, if you get 
 them too full, or if very light) it will not make a mess on 
 the cellar shelf. (Preserve jars or bottles of the size of 
 whiskey bottles are preferable to a jug for keeping yeast, 
 as but one bottle at a time need be uncorked, whereas, 
 with a jug, the whole quantity of yeast is exposed to the 
 air every time any is drawn off.) Stir the yeast rapidly 
 before pouring through a funnel into the bottles, which 
 should only be filled two thirds full. Cork tightly, with 
 perfectly clean corks, and set at once in a cold place. 
 
 Every time you want yeast for setting bread, carry 
 your cup or whatever it is to be measured in, to the cel- 
 lar, and pour out the yeast there, first shaking it hard, 
 till it froths. This is a better plan than to take the yeast 
 to the warm kitchen, where it may sour, if left but so 
 short a time as half an hour. Always stir up the yeast 
 the moment before you put it into the bread. A novice 
 will often be puzzled to tell whether yeast is good or not, 
 on account of the peculiar odor which accompanies any 
 fermentation. It will perhaps seem sour when it is in 
 reality perfectly good. If, however, sour bread is the 
 result, throw away all the remaining yeast, and make fresh ; 
 using fresh yeast to set it with. Do not, as some will 
 advise, attempt to make it right by the use of soda. It 
 is too doubtful an experiment, and it is less wasteful to 
 throw away a gallon of yeast than a whole " baking " of 
 bread. 
 
Yeast. 315 
 
 Raw Potato Yeast. 
 
 3 large potatoes. 
 
 3 pints boiling water. 
 
 cupful white sugar. 
 
 1 cupful yeast well shaken. 
 1 large tablespoonful salt. 
 
 Peel the potatoes, and put them to soak in cold water 
 till the kettle boils. Then grate one potato, in a large 
 earthen dish, pour over it at once one pint boiling water 
 (to cook the potato) ; grate the next, and pour on the 
 next pint of water ; do the same with the third. (If you 
 grate them all, before pouring on the water, they may 
 turn dark.) Stir quickly with a wooden or silver spoon. 
 Mix in thoroughly the salt and sugar. Leave it to be- 
 come lukewarm (not cold). Then put in the yeast, stir 
 it well, and leave to rise in a warm place four or five 
 hours. When light and ready to bottle, it will be covered 
 with a thick foam. Stir it up and bottle it. This is the 
 most quickly and easily made of any kind of yeast and 
 makes delicious bread. 
 
 Yeast with Hops. 
 
 4 pounds potatoes (pared and 
 
 cut up). 
 4 quarts water. 
 1 handful fresh hops. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful ginger. 
 
 yeast-cakes. 
 
 tablespoonfuls tepid water. 
 
 u 
 
 1 cupful salt. 
 
 Boil the potatoes in three quarts of the water, and pass 
 them through the colander with the water. Boil the hops 
 ten minutes in one quart of water, and strain the water 
 on the potatoes. Add the salt, sugar and ginger. The 
 whole quantity should measure five quarts; if lacking, 
 add tepid water. When lukewarm, add the yeast-cakes, 
 mixed smooth in the four tablespoonfuls water. Keep in 
 a warm place for a day and a night. When light it will be 
 foamy on top. Then bottle, cork, and keep in a cool, 
 dry cellar. It will keep for a number of weeks. 
 
 After having made it once, save a cupful to raise the 
 next with, instead of yeast-ca&es. 
 
316 now to CooJc Well 
 
 " Sponge." 
 
 a corn meal yeast cake. 
 
 Flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 1 quart tepid water. 
 
 In winter, mix the sponge at one or two o'clock ; in 
 summer, at four o'clock. In winter, use two thirds (or 
 more) of a yeast cake. 
 
 Soak the yeast cake for one hour in a little warm 
 water, enough to cover it. Then add the quart of water, 
 and beat in flour, until, when the batter is poured from 
 the spoon into that which is in the bowl, it will not mix 
 with it, but will lie in drops on the top. 
 
 Set in a warm place, covered, to rise for about five 
 hours. It will then be ready to use to set bread. If not 
 wanted at once, it will keep a day or two in a cold place, 
 if covered tight. 
 
 This will raise four medium-sized loaves of bread. 
 
 CAKE. 
 
 REMARKS ON CAKE. 
 
 Before you begin to mix cake, grease the tins, measure 
 out all the necessary ingredients, and see that you have a 
 good fire ; for cake should not be allowed to stand either 
 during the process of mixing or when ready for the oven. 
 Cake is less liable to stick to the pans if they are greased with 
 lard (of course very little should be used), but some pre- 
 fer to use butter. Several thicknesses of paper (greased) 
 should be laid in the bottom of pans for fruit cake, as this 
 is more liable to burn than other kinds. 
 
 To Mix Cake, the usual rule is, first rub the butter and 
 sugar together with a wooden spoon or potato-masher till 
 they look soft and creamy and are several shades lighter 
 in color than when you began. This process is facilitated 
 by having the mixing-bowl slightly warm ; but on no 
 account melt the butter. Upon this faithful " creaming " 
 
Cake. 317 
 
 of the butter and sugar, depends chiefly the success of 
 the cake. 
 
 To the butter and sugar add the eggs, which will beat 
 light much more quickly if they are cold. Break each 
 into a cup by itself before adding it to the rest, for one 
 bad egg would spoil all. If necessary to separate the 
 yolks from the whites, be careful in doing it ; for the least 
 particle of yolk would prevent the whites from being 
 beaten stiff. Beat them in a platter with long strokes 
 from a silver fork. Do not stop beating until they are 
 stiff ; if you do they will liquify, and cannot afterward be 
 beaten light. Yolks should be beaten till frothy. 
 
 Next, put in the milk. Never use fresh and stale milk 
 in the same cake ; it would make it heavy. 
 
 Measure the soda and cream of tartar carefully. (A little 
 too much soda would affect the whole cake disagreeably.) 
 Dissolve the former in a teaspoonful or so of warm water 
 and mix with the milk before adding it to the cake. The 
 cream of tartar should be stirred through the flour(or a part 
 of it) and this beaten in last. Of course the flour must 
 be sifted before it is measured. Beat all well together. 
 Then pour into the pans, which should be filled only two 
 thirds full, leaving room for the cake to rise. 
 
 To Bake Cake. Most cake requires a moderately hot 
 oven to make it rise up well. Fruit cake, however, 
 should be put into a slow oven, as it needs longer baking 
 and is apt to burn. For all cake the heat should be well 
 kept up ; if allowed to decrease the loaves will be doughy 
 inside, or at least, heavy. Sponge cake, in particular, 
 needs a steady heat. Jelly-cake and all layer-cakes need 
 a hot oven, and are easier for a novice to bake than any 
 other kind. They bake quickly; therefore watch care, 
 fully, to see that they do not burn around the edges. 
 Except with layer-cakes, do not open the oven door till 
 the end of ten minutes; it might chill the cake while 
 
318 How to CooTc Well 
 
 rising, which is the most critical time. When you do 
 look in the oven, take care that no cold draught of air 
 from an open window or door strikes in, and do not slam 
 the oven door when you shut it, or jar the pans by mov- 
 ing them unnecessarily. 
 
 To tell when Cake is done, run a clean broom straw 
 quickly down into the thickest part of the cake; if it 
 comes up moist the cake is not yet done, but if dry, it is 
 time to take it out. Do this carefully, putting the pan 
 down gently in a place where no draught will strike it. 
 Take it out of the pan while warm, not hot, 
 
 What to do in case of failure. If the cake is heavy, 
 nothing can be done. If burned on the bottom and the 
 rest is good, frost on the bottom. If the whole outside is 
 burned, cut out the good parts to use for " Tipsy Par- 
 son," or if you can cut into good slices do so, and frost 
 each slice, laying a bit of candied orange (or other fruit) 
 or half an English walnut in the centre. 
 
 Old-Fashioned Frosting. 
 
 To the white of each egg allow one scant cupful of pul- 
 verized sugar. Have the eggs as cold as possible, in a large 
 platter. Do not beat them alone, but begin by beating 
 half the sugar with them, adding the rest by degrees. 
 Beat about half an hour in a cold place, or till the 
 mixture becomes stiff. Then stir in a little extract or 
 lemon-juice; the latter is nicest. As soon as stiff, spread 
 over the cake, which should be previously dredged with a 
 little flour to prevent the butter in the cake from discolor- 
 ing the frosting. Put a large spoonful of frosting in the 
 centre of the cake, and spread it smoothly with a knife 
 dipped in hot water to prevent its sticking. When all is 
 done set the cake in a cool place for half an hour to harden. 
 
 N. B. If the top is not a good shape, frost the bottom 
 of the cake. 
 
 Allow the whites of two eggs to frost one large loaf. 
 
Cake. 319 
 
 Boiled Frosting. 
 
 f 1 cupful granulated sugar. 
 
 \ 10 tablespoonfuls boiling water. 
 
 1 egg, white only. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water together, without stirring, till 
 it hardens when dropped in cold water (try it as soon as 
 the bubbles become large). Have ready the white of the 
 egg, well beaten. Pour the hot sugar on it, and beat till 
 stiff enough to ice the cake. 
 
 Enough for one large loaf. 
 
 Isinglass Frosting. (No Egg.) 
 
 {1 sheet Russia Isinglass. 
 1 small cupful boiling water. 
 
 2 pounds pulverized sugar. 
 
 Dissolve the isinglass in the water, then stir in the sugar. 
 Beat well and pour over the cake. 
 
 Gelatine Frosting. (No Egg.) 
 
 f 1 tablespoonful Cox's gelatine. 
 I i cupful boiling water (nearly). 
 
 4 cupful* pulverized sugar (nearly). 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar (dry). 
 
 Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Beat in sugar till stiff. 
 Add the cream of tartar. Then pour over the cake. 
 Enough for two very large loaves. This is a very smooth, 
 pretty frosting. It can be made in a few minutes, and 
 hardens immediately on the cake. 
 
 To Color Frosting. 
 
 Pink. A little red jelly or preserve-juice, cranberry 
 syrup or cochineal, stirred into ordinary frosting, colors 
 a pretty pink. 
 
 Yellow. Cut an orange in halves, and soak the yellow 
 part of the rind in the juice. Put in a thin muslin 
 bag and squeeze it through the muslin. The juice will 
 be colored by the rind. Stir it into ordinary frosting. 
 
320 How to Cook Well 
 
 The whitest icing is made by adding lemon juice to the 
 egg and sugar. 
 
 Chocolate Frosting. 
 6 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. 
 
 1 cupful line sugar. 
 
 2 eggs, whites only. 
 
 Beat the ingredients together, and spread the frosting 
 on when the cake is hot. 
 
 If you like, you can add one teaspoonf ul vanilla extract 
 
 to the above. 
 
 Fancy Frosting, 
 
 Chopped figs, raisins, or citron (sliced) beaten in with 
 ordinary frosting makes a pleasant variety. Almonds or 
 English walnuts broken in pieces are nice, too ; or break 
 neatly in halves, and lay on the top. Plain frosting 
 sprinkled with red sugar is pretty. If for a child's birth- 
 day-cake, sprinkle with tiny red seed-candies. 
 
 Orange Frosting, 
 2 eggs, whites only. 
 4 pound or 2 cupf uls pulverized sugar. 
 1 large orange, juice only. 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs with the sugar, adding it 
 by degrees, and beat until stiff; then stir in the orange- 
 juice. 
 
 Cocoanut Frosting, 
 
 1 egg, white only. I 3 tablespoonfuls grated cocoa- 
 
 1 cupful sugar. nut. 
 
 Proceed as with " Orange Frosting." 
 Enough for one loaf. 
 
 FILLING FOR CAKE. 
 Lemon Filling (No. 1). 
 
 ( 3 eggs. 
 
 t 2 cupf uls sugar. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 Beat eggs and sugar together, add grated peel and 
 juice of the lemons. Put in the butter and stir it over a 
 
Cake. 321 
 
 slow fire (the pan being set into another of boiling water), 
 until the mixture thickens. Spread between cakes. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 i cupful butter. I 3 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. I 2 lemons. 
 
 Put all together over the fire, using both grated rind and 
 juice of the lemons. Set the pan containing it within 
 another of boiling water, and stir till it thickens. 
 
 When perfectly cold, spread between layers of cake 
 slightly warm. This is nice with "White Cake." 
 
 This is enough for six layers. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 1 cupful boiling water. 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 ( 4 teaspoonfuls cornstarch. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cold water. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 Rub the cornstarch smooth in the cold water, and stir 
 it into the boiling water, on the stove. Boil till it begins 
 to thicken. Add the sugar, the juice and rind of the 
 lemon, and the eggs, well-beaten. Stir every minute till 
 quite thick. When cold, spread between layers of cake. 
 
 Orange Filling. 
 
 1 orange. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls. flour. 
 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Grate half the rind of the orange. Squeeze the juice. 
 Rub the flour smooth in this. Add the, sugar and water. 
 Put all together over the fire within a pan of boiling 
 water. Boil till the flour is cooked. Then add the 
 egg, stirring constantly for a few minutes. Then remove 
 and cool it before spreading over layers of cake. 
 
 Apple Filling (no Egg). 
 
 2 apples, grated. 1 lemon. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 Put all together in a small sauce-pan, using both 
 rind and juice of the lemon, and set on the stove. 
 
322 How to Cook Well. 
 
 When it begins to boil, stir occasionally. When it 
 thickens, which it should do in about ten minutes, remove 
 from the fire. When cold, spread on layers of cake. 
 This is only enough for one thick layer. 
 
 Cocoanut Filling. 
 
 f l&cupfuls sugar. 
 I cupful water. 
 
 2 eggs, whites only. 
 
 1 cupful grated cocoanut. 
 
 Boil sugar and water without stirring, until thick. 
 Remove, and pour into a large dish. Add gradually the 
 eggs, beaten stiff. Beat all together until cold, then mix 
 in the cocoanut. Spread this between layers of cake, 
 and on the top ; then sprinkle some dry cocoanut on top 
 
 of all. 
 
 Plain Jelly-Cake. 
 
 Mix like "Feather Cake." Fill jelly-cake tins only 
 half-full and bake in a very hot oven about ten minutes 
 taking care not to let the edges harden. 
 
 When cold, spread each layer thickly with jelly. Pile 
 neatly on a plate, and sift pulverized sugar over the top. 
 Eat fresh. Makes one loaf of five layers. 
 
 Jelly Cake Without Eggs. 
 
 f 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 v cupful butter (scant). 
 
 f 4 cupful milk. 
 
 I i teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 
 
 \ cupful cold water. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 
 Flavor to taste. 
 
 Mix in order, and bake about ten minutes in jelly-cake 
 tins in a very hot oven. 
 
 Makes one large loaf of five 'layers. Eat fresh. 
 
 This is nice with lemon or apple filling. A useful 
 receipt when eggs are scarce. 
 
 Gold and Silver Jelly-Cake. 
 
 Make " Gold " and " Silver " Cake. Bake and proceed 
 as with "Plain Jelly-Cake." Pile the layers in alterna- 
 ting colors. 
 
 Makes a very handsome cake. 
 
Cake. 323 
 
 Tip-Top Jelly-Cake. 
 
 3 eggs (yolks and whites sep- 
 
 arate). 
 14 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 4 cupful butter (softened). 
 
 f 4 cupful milk. 
 
 I 4 teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 
 f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 1 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Beat yolks of the eggs and the sugar together. Then 
 add butter, milk and soda. Beat the whites stiff, and 
 mix them in alternately with the flour (with the cream 
 of tartar mixed through it). Beat all together and pro- 
 ceed as with "Plain Jelly-Cake." 
 
 Makes two jelly-cakes, of four layers each. 
 
 White Mountain Cake. 
 
 f 1 cupful butter. 
 
 1 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 ( 1 cupful milk. 
 
 ( 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 
 ( 2 teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar. 
 
 ( 34 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Mix in this order. Beat hard. Bake in jelly-cake 
 tins, for ten minutes in a hot oven. Before it becomes 
 entirely cold, spread each layer with frosting (" Isinglass 
 Frosting" is nicest for this), and cover the top with frost- 
 ing. Eat fresh. 
 
 Makes two loaves, of four layers each. 
 
 To vary this, use two kinds of " Fancy Frosting " ; 
 one with nuts, and one with chopped raisins. 
 
 Chocolate Cake. (No. 1.) 
 
 f 1 cupful butter. 
 
 I 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 5 eggs (leaving out whites of three). 
 
 f 1 cupful milk. 
 
 I 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 1 34 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Mix in order, first beating the eggs light. Bake like 
 
324 How to Cook Well. 
 
 " Plain Jelly-Cake," in seven or eight layers. When cool 
 spread with the following 
 
 Filling for Four Layers. 
 f 3 eggs (whites only) . 
 I li cupfuls sugar. 
 
 6 tablespoonf uls grated chocolate. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Beat eggs and sugar together till stiff ; then add the 
 chocolate and vanilla. 
 
 You can make two different kinds of cake from this 
 receipt, by filling the four remaining layers with " Apple 
 Filling" (or any other kind). Or if you wish a thicker 
 chocolate cake, make twice the quantity of filling, as 
 above ; this is better than baking thicker layers. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. f 3 cupfuls flour. 
 
 2 large tablespoonf uls butter. 
 
 3 eggs (whites only). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking-pow- 
 der, 
 cupful grated chocolate. 
 
 Mix in order, first beating the eggs light and reserving 
 the chocolate. Put half of the batter in two pans. To the 
 remaining half add the chocolate, and put this in two pans. 
 Bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. When done, 
 spread each layer with chocolate icing or anything you 
 may prefer. Pile up the layers, dark and light alternately. 
 
 A nice filling for this is plain cornstarch blanc mange, 
 made soft, and flavored with vanilla. 
 
 Orange Cake (No 1). 
 
 Make " Old-Fashioned Sponge Cake," substituting 
 oranges for the lemons. 
 
 Bake in jelly-cake tins about ten minutes in a very hot 
 oven; and when cool spread each layer with "Orange 
 Frosting." Pile up and frost the top. 
 
 Another Way is to peel and slice oranges and remove 
 the seeds. Cut into small bits and lay on each layer of 
 cake just before you frost it. 
 
Cake. 325 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 5 eggs, reserving whites of 3. 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 1 teaspooonf ul cream of tar- 
 tar. 
 
 cupful cold water. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 1 orange, juice and grated rind. 
 
 i teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 
 
 Beat stiff the whites of the eggs ; add the sugar. 
 When thoroughly mixed, put in the yolks beaten light. 
 Then add the flour, with the cream of tartar mixed 
 through it; and the other ingredients in order. Bake 
 about ten minutes in a hot oven in jelly-cake tins. 
 While still warm, spread each layer with " Orange Frost- 
 ing." 
 
 This makes one large loaf of five layers. 
 
 Lemon Layer Cake. 
 
 Make like " Orange Cake No. 2," substituting a lemon 
 for the orange, and using "Lemon Filling." Or bake 
 like "White Cake," split into three sheets when cold, 
 and fill with "Lemon Filling No. 2." The latter makes 
 a very pretty looking cake. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. 
 
 f 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 I i cupful butter. 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 3 cupfuls flour. 
 2 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- 
 der. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Mix in order. Bake like " Plain Jelly-Cake." Spread 
 each layer with " Cocoanut Filling." 
 
 Variety Cake. 
 
 Make White or Snow Cake. Bake in layers as for 
 jelly-cake ; spread the layers with pink frosting. Or 
 color part of the batter pink, with a little red preserve- 
 syrup, and pile the pink and white layers alternately, 
 putting plain frosting between and on top. 
 
326 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Charlotte Russe Cake. 
 
 Make " Quick Sponge Cake." Bake it as Jelly-Cake, 
 and spread each layer when cold with the following 
 
 Filling. 
 
 1 cupful rich cream. I cupful pulverized sugar, 
 
 i teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Beat all together till smooth. Sift powdered sugar 
 over the top of the cake. Eat fresh. Makes three layers. 
 
 Marble Layer Cake. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 cupful butter. 
 
 3 eggs. 
 
 3 cupfuls flour, 
 li teaspoonf uls baking-pow- 
 der. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Mix in order. Bake half the mixture in two jelly-cake 
 pans. To the remainder add 
 
 1 cupful raisins (chopped). 
 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 1 tablespoonful molasses. 
 
 Bake this in two pans. Spread the layers with frost- 
 ing (or jelly) and pile up alternately. 
 
 Rolled Jelly-Cake. 
 
 Make " Cheap Sponge Cake," but beat it after the flour 
 is in, to make it tough. When ready to bake, put into a 
 large, square shallow pan (a dripping-pan w T ill do) which 
 must be very thickly buttered. This is to prevent any 
 difficulty in turning it out of the pan without breaking. 
 Be sure to have the mixture evenly spread in the pan, but 
 very thinly. Put at once into a very hot oven and bake 
 evenly, taking care not to let it harden around the edges. 
 This can be prevented by laying a thick paper over the 
 top. Have the paper large enough to be supported by 
 the sides of the pan, so that it will not touch the batter. 
 
 Do not open the oven door until it has been in five 
 minutes. Spread on a table a clean cloth, and when the 
 
Cake. 
 
 327 
 
 cake is done, which should be in ten minutes, slip it out 
 of the pan, bottom side up, on to the cloth. Spread it 
 qaickly while still hot with nearly one cupful of jelly, or 
 raspberry jam ; beginning at the narrow end, roll it up 
 into a compact round roll. All this must be done very 
 rapidly or the cake will cool too much to roll. 
 
 This is very quickly made. Caramel frosting (see " Car- 
 amel Loaf") may be used instead of jelly. 
 
 (3 cupfuls flour. 
 3 teaspoonf uls baking-pow- 
 der. 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 
 Lincoln Cake. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar, 
 i cupful butter. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Mix in order, and beat a long time. Bake in a moder- 
 ate oven about three quarters of an hour. Two large 
 
 loaves. 
 
 1, 2, 3, 4 Cake. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 
 3 cupfuls flour. 
 
 / 1 cupful butter. 
 \ 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 4 eggs, beaten light, 
 f 1 cupful milk. 
 \ 1 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 lemon, juice only (may be 
 omitted). 
 
 Mix in order, substituting any flavoring you wish for 
 the lemon. Bake in a moderately hot oven about twenty- 
 five minutes. Makes two medium-sized loaves. (To 
 make it rich, leave out part of the milk.) 
 
 Cup Cake. 
 
 f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- 
 \ tar. 
 6 cupfuls flour. 
 
 f l 
 1 1 
 
 3 cupfuls sugar, 
 li cupfuls butter. 
 3 eggs, beaten light, 
 li cupfuls milk, 
 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 A little nutmeg. 
 
 1 wineglassf ul wine or brandy. 
 
 Mix in order, beat hard, and bake in a moderately hot 
 oven. 
 
 Makes three loaves. 
 
328 How to Cook Well 
 
 Feather Cake. 
 
 f 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 \ 2 tablespoonf uls butter, melted. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light, 
 f i cupful milk. 
 I teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 lemon, juice only (may be omitted or any extract used in 
 place) . 
 
 Mix in order. Beat hard, and bake in one loaf in a 
 moderate oven. Eat fresh. This plain cake may be 
 improved by adding spices to a part of the mixture, and 
 baking like Marble Cake." 
 
 White Cake. 
 f 1 cupful butter. 
 1 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 3 eggs, whites only, beaten well, 
 f 1 cupful milk. 
 X I teaspoouf ul soda, 
 f li teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. 
 1 3i cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful almond extract. 
 
 Mix in the above order, beat hard, and bake in two 
 loaves in a moderate oven. 
 
 The yolks of the eggs may be used for " Salad Dress- 
 ing," or for " Cornstarch Custard." Makes two loaves. 
 
 Snow Cake. 
 / 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 1 1 cupful butter. 
 6 eggs (whites only). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 f2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 
 1 2 cupfuls flour. 
 cupful cornstarch (dry). 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 
 Mix in order. Beat hard, put in two pans, and bake 
 carefully in a moderately hot oven. 
 
Cake. 329 
 
 Delicate Cake. 
 
 cupfuls sugar, 
 cupful butter, 
 eggs (whites only), 
 cupful milk, 
 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 i; 
 
 teaspoonful cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 
 cupful cornstarch. 
 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Flavoring to taste. 
 
 Mix in order. Beat hard, and bake in a moderate oven, 
 keeping the heat steady. 
 
 This is nice with "Chocolate Frosting." (The yolks 
 of the eggs may be used for custard.) 
 
 Cream Cake. 
 (" Choice Receipts") 
 
 f 1 cupful rich cream. 
 1 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 egg. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 
 i teaspoonful soda. 
 
 i teaspoonful salt. 
 
 i teaspoonful bitter almond flavoring. 
 
 Stir the cream and sugar well together, then beat in 
 the egg. Put the cream of tartar, dry soda and salt into 
 the flour, mix in well, and stir into the cream, sugar and 
 egg. Add flavoring. Bake in one loaf. To be eaten 
 when fresh. 
 
 Spice Cake. 
 
 1 cupful butter. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs, beaten light. 
 1 cupful sour milk, 
 i teaspoonful soda. 
 
 3 cupfuls flour, 
 li cupfuls raisins. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls cinnamon. 
 Mace and allspice if you like. 
 
 Mix in order, dredging a little of the flour over the 
 raisins, before adding them. Beat well, and bake in a 
 slow oven for one hour. 
 
 Makes one large loaf. 
 
330 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Pound Cake. 
 
 1 pound butter. 
 1 pound sugar. 
 6 eggs, beaten light. 
 
 1 pound flour. 
 
 1 wineglassf til brandy or wine. 
 
 A little rose water. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar very thoroughly. Bent 
 the yolks and whites separately, and add the yolks. Stir 
 in the flour alternately with the whites of the eggs, and 
 add the brandy and rose water. 
 
 The success of this cake depends upon thorough mix- 
 ing before the flour is put in. 
 
 Bake in a moderate oven, keeping the heat steady. 
 
 Sandusky Cake. 
 
 (Mrs. Cornelius.) 
 f 1 cupful butter. 
 1 2 cupf uls sugar. 
 f 1 cupful milk. 
 1 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 4 eggs, yolks and whites separate, 
 f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 
 1 3i cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful flavoring. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar, and add the milk and 
 soda. Beat the yolks of the eggs (one at a time), and 
 add them. Then beat the whites stiff, and stir them in 
 alternately with the flour, through which the cream of 
 tartar has been mixed. Flavor, and beat a long time. 
 Bake in a moderately hot oven. Makes two loaves. 
 
 This resembles Pound Cake. 
 
 Grandpa's Cake. 
 
 / 3 cupfuls sugar. 
 \ 1 cupful butter. 
 
 4 eggs (yolks and whites separate). 
 1 small nutmeg, grated. 
 
 ( li cupfuls sour milk. 
 
 ( 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 5 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 heaping cupful raisins or currants. 
 
Cake. 331 
 
 Rub butter and sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs light, 
 leaving out, if you choose, the whites of two for Frosting. 
 Add the eggs, nutmeg, milk and soda. Stir in four cup- 
 fuls of the flour. Rub the raisins in the remaining flour 
 and put them in. 
 
 Beat well. Bake about one hour in a moderate oven. 
 Makes two large loaves and a small one. Use sweet 
 milk, if you choose. In this case add two teaspoonfuls 
 of cream of tartar. Chopped figs may be used instead of 
 raisins. 
 
 Marble Cake. 
 Light. 
 
 f cupful butter. 
 
 1 Ik cupfuls white sugar. 
 
 4 eggs, (whites only). 
 
 4 cupful milk. 
 
 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 ( 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 1 24 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Dark. 
 
 {4 cupful butter. 
 4 cupful molasses. 
 1 cupful brown sugar. 
 4 eggs (yolks only.) 
 j 4 cupful milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 3 cupfuls flour (nearly). 
 1 teaspoonful allspice. 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg. 
 
 < 4 teaspoouf ul soda, dissolved. 4 teaspoonful cloves. 
 
 Mix each kind in order, beating the eggs light. First 
 put a layer of light cake, then of dark, and so on. Bake 
 in a moderate oven, taking care that it does not burn. 
 
 Makes two large loaves. 
 
 Huckleberry Cake. 
 
 Make like " Lincoln Cake." The last thing before 
 baking, dredge one pint of huckleberries with one cupful 
 of flour and stir them in. 
 
332 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Gold Cake. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 | cupful butter. 
 
 8 eggs, yolks only. 
 
 cupful milk. 
 
 h teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 
 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 Mix in order. Bake in a moderately hot oven. 
 Make "Silver Cake" the same day, or see "To Use 
 the Whites of Eggs." 
 
 Silver Cake. 
 
 f 2 cupfuls white sugar. 
 
 1 4 cupful butter. 
 
 8 eggs (whites only). 
 ( 2i cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 
 {I cupful milk. 
 
 teaspoonf ul soda. 
 
 A little rose water. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar, and mix in order. Bake 
 in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 Make " Gold Cake " the same day, or, see " To Use the 
 Yolks of Eggs." x 
 
 Washington Cake. 
 
 ( 1 cupful butter. 
 ( 3 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 5 eggs (yolks and whites separate). 
 ( 1 cupful milk. 
 i 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 4 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Mix in order, beating the eggs light, and reserving the 
 
Cake. 333 
 
 whites to mix in alternately with the flour, which should 
 be stirred in as lightly as possible. 
 
 (Use sour milk if you choose, and omit the lemon 
 juice.) 
 
 Bake in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 Makes two loaves. 
 
 Citron Cake. 
 
 1 cupful butter. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- 
 tar. 
 
 44 cupfuls flour. 
 1 small nutmeg, grated. 
 4 ounces citron, sliced thin. 
 
 Mix in order, rubbing the citron through a part of the 
 flour before adding it. Bake at once in a rather hot 
 oven. 
 
 Makes two large loaves. 
 
 Lemon Loaf Cake. 
 
 I cupful butter. 
 2 cupfuls of white sugar. 
 3 eggs (yolks and whites 
 separate). 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 14 teaspoonfuls soda. 
 4 cupfuls flour. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 Mix in order. Beat eggs light. Use both juice and 
 rind of lemons. Bake in a rather hot oven. 
 Makes two loaves. 
 
 Almond Cake (No. 1). 
 ( 1 cupful butter. 
 ( 14 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 ' 4 cupful milk. 
 (3 cupfuls flour (about), 
 i 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 
 | teaspoouful almond extract. 
 1 pound almonds. 
 
 Mix in order everything but the rJmonds. "Blanch " 
 these. Lay aside enough to cover, when split in halves, 
 the top of the cake. Chop the rest, and beat well into 
 
334 How to Cook Well 
 
 the cake-batter. Pour this into a deep pan, and lay the split 
 almonds lightly on top. They will rise and brown as the 
 cake bakes. Bake in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 No. 2. f 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 \ 4 cupful butter. 
 
 6 eggs (whites only). 
 ( \ cupful milk. 
 < 4 teaspoon ful soda. 
 { 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 
 ( 3 cupfuls flour. 
 
 Mix in order. Bake in a rather quick oven in two flat 
 tins. When cold, spread one loaf with the following 
 
 Cream. 
 
 1 pint boiling milk. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 4 cupful sugar. 
 
 4 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 
 
 4 pound almonds. 
 
 Stir the flour into the boiling milk, having first rubbed 
 it smooth in a little cold milk. Have ready the eggs and 
 sugar beaten together; add them to the hot milk and 
 flour, and stir every minute to prevent their curdling. 
 When it thickens, remove from the stove and stir in the 
 .vanilla. Have ready half a pound almonds ^ blanched" 
 and halved. Mix about two thirds of them into the cream. 
 
 When you have spread it on the cake, place the 
 other loaf on top and frost it. Put the remainder of the 
 almonds in even rows on the frosting, leaving spaces to cut 
 the cake into slices. 
 
 Fruit or Wedding Cake. 
 
 1 pound butter (scant). 
 1 pound brown sugar. 
 | tablespoonful grated nut- 
 meg. 
 
 14 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. 
 4 tablespoonful cloves. 
 4 tablespoonful mace. 
 
 1 cupful N. O. molasses. 
 
 1 pound flour. 
 
 4 pounds raisins (stoned). 
 
 2 pounds currants (washed). 
 4 pound citron (sliced). 
 
 1 small cupful brandy. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar. Add the spice and yolks 
 
Cake. 
 
 335 
 
 of the eggs (beaten light) and the molasses. Reserve a 
 little of the flour in which to rub the fruit, and stir in the 
 rest alternately with the beaten whites. Just before 
 adding the fruit and brandy, dip out a little of the batter 
 to spread over the top of the cake, when in the pan, ready 
 to bake. This will give a smooth surface for frosting. 
 
 Line the pan with several thicknesses of paper buttered, 
 and put paper over the top when it begins to brown. 
 Bake in a slow oven two or three hours, keeping the heat 
 steady. Watch it closely. When cold, frost it hand- 
 somely. It will keep a long time. 
 
 Chodwell Cake. 
 
 1 cupful butter. 
 
 3 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 5 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda. 
 
 4 cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 pound raisins, stoned. 
 
 1 pound currants (washed and 
 
 dried). 
 4 pound citron, cut in slips. 
 
 1 teaspoouf ul cloves. 
 
 4 teaspooiiful nutmeg. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls cinnamon. 
 
 Mix in order, reserving a part of the flour to scatter 
 over the fruit before stirring it in. Bake slowly in a 
 moderate oven, watching it carefully. 
 
 Makes two large loaves. 
 
 Coffee Cake, 
 
 1 cupful brown sugar. 
 
 1 full cupful butter. 
 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dry). 
 
 1 cupful strong cofl'ee (cold) . 
 
 44 light cupfuls flour. 
 
 1 cupful raisins stoned. 
 
 cupful currants, 
 teaspoonful cloves, 
 teaspoonful cinnamon, 
 teaspoonful mace, 
 teaspoonful allspice, 
 teaspoonful ginger. 
 A very little nutmeg. 
 
 Mix in order, dissolving the soda in the molasses before 
 adding it, and reserving one cupful of flour in which to 
 rub the raisins and currants before putting in. Beat well, 
 
336 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 and bake at once in a moderate oven about one hour, 
 taking care not to let it burn. 
 
 Makes two large loaves. If frosted, it will keep fresh 
 a long time. 
 
 Quick Sponge Cake. 
 
 4 eggs (yolks and whites sep- 
 arate). 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 1 cupful pulverized sugar. 
 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar; add the 
 whites, and beat in the flour and the salt very lightly, 
 and only just enough to mix it through, for longer beat- 
 ing makes it tough. Bake it in one loaf in a moderate 
 oven, keeping the heat steady. 
 
 This is the most quickly and easily made of all sponge 
 cake. 
 
 The General's Sponge Cake. 
 
 | pound sugar. 
 
 8 tablespoonfuls cold water. 
 
 i pound flour, twice sifted. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 7 eggs (beaten light) . 
 
 Put the sugar and water together, and boil briskly with- 
 out stirring, and while warm (not hot} pour it slowly over 
 the eggs, stirring them so that they will not curdle. 
 Beat twenty or twenty-five minutes. Then stir in lightly 
 the flour and salt ; and bake at once in a quick oven, keep- 
 ing the heat steady. 
 
 Old-fashioned Sponge Cake. 
 
 12 eggs, whites and yolks sep- 
 arate. 
 Sugar. 
 
 Flour. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 Weigh the eggs before you break them. Take their 
 weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour. Beat the 
 yolks of the eggs with the sugar ; then stir in lightly the 
 whites, beaten stiff. Add the rind of one lemon grated, 
 and the juice of both. Lastly, the flour and salt, beating 
 
Cake, 
 
 337 
 
 only just enough to mix it through, and taking care not 
 to touch the bottom of the bowl with the spoon. This 
 makes it much lighter. Bake in a moderate oven, keep- 
 ing the heat steady. 
 Makes two loaves. 
 
 Cheap Sponge Cake. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 ( i teaspoonfnl soda (dissolved in 
 < 1 tablespoonful warm water). 
 
 Mix in this order. Beat hard before the flour goes in. 
 Stir this in lightly. The whole mixing must be done 
 rapidly, and the mixture not allowed to stand before 
 baking. Bake in a quick oven, keeping the heat steady. 
 Eat fresh. 
 
 Makes one loaf. 
 
 Angel Cake. 
 
 1 scant cupful flour. 
 
 I teaspoonful cream of tar- 
 
 tar. 
 
 II eggs (whites only). 
 
 1 4 cupf uls fl n e s t granulated 
 
 sugar. 
 2 teaspoon f uls vanilla. 
 
 Pastry flour is the best to use. Put the cream of 
 tartar with the flour, and sift it ten times. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs in a large bowl till you can turn the 
 bowl upside down without spilling them. Then beat in 
 lightly the sugar, vanilla and sifted flour. Pour into an 
 ungreased pan, without paper. Bake in a quick oven. 
 When the cake is done, turn the pan upside down, and 
 leave it resting on the edges supported by sticks until the 
 cake partly cools. If you leave it too long it will be 
 spoiled. Turn it out and ice the bottom with "Boiled 
 Frosting." 
 
338 
 
 How to Cook Well 
 
 GINGERBREAD. 
 Rye Beach Gingerbread. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 1 cupful brown sugar. 
 
 i cupful lard and butter, 
 
 mixed. 
 2-i tablespoonfuls ginger. 
 
 3-i or 4 cupf uls flour. 
 1 cupful sour milk. 
 3 eggs (even 1 will do). 
 
 1 teaspoon ful salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonf uls soda, dissolved. 
 
 Put the molasses, sugar and shortening over the fire. 
 As soon as they begin to boil, remove them and stir in at 
 once the ginger. Have ready the flour in the mixing- 
 bowl, and pour the hot molasses on it. Stir it briskly, 
 then add the milk, and when cool enough not to curdle 
 the eggs, add them, well-beaten, and the salt. Last, put 
 in the soda. Beat hard, and bake carefully in a moderate 
 oven. Makes two large loaves. 
 
 This gingerbread is unequalled, even when but one egg 
 is used. 
 
 Spiced Gingerbread (no Eggs). 
 
 1 cupful butter. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 cupful molasses. 
 
 1 cupful boiling water. 
 
 1 tablespoonful soda (nearly). 
 
 1 tablespoonful ginger. 
 
 i nutmeg, grated. 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 1 teaspoonful mace. 
 1 teaspoonf ul allspice. 
 Flour to make a thick batter. 
 
 Mix in order ; beat hard, and bake in two loaves in a 
 moderate oven, about half an hour. 
 This is nice baked in patty-pans. 
 
 Sponge Gingerbread (no Eggs). 
 
 2i teaspoonfuls ginger. 
 3 cupfuls flour. 
 1 teaspoonful cloves (may be 
 omitted). 
 
 Warm the milk, molasses and butter together. Add 
 the soda, and mix with the flour and spice. Beat hard 
 and bake carefully in two biscuit-pans about half an hour, 
 taking care not to have the oven too hot. 
 
 {1 cupful milk, 
 li cupfuls molasses. 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
Cake. 339 
 
 La Fayette Gingerbread. 
 4 pound butter, full weiglit. 
 
 4 pound brown sugar. 
 
 5 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 
 1 pint molasses. 
 
 4 pint milk. 
 
 (14 pounds flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 
 4 teaspoonful soda (dry). 
 
 1 tablcspoonful ginger. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 
 \ pound raisins (may be omitted). 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar ; add the beaten yolks, then 
 the whites beaten stiff, the molasses and the milk. Sift 
 the cream of tartar and the soda with the flour, and stir 
 that in ; then mix in the spices and raisins, previously 
 stoned and rubbed in a very little flour. Beat hard, and 
 bake at once in a moderately hot oven. 
 
 White or Sugar Gingerbread. 
 J 2 cupfuls white sugar. 
 \ 1 cupful butter. 
 
 5 eggs, beaten light. 
 ( 1 cupful milk. 
 
 I 4 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 ( 2 cupfuls flour. 
 
 i 4 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls white ginger. 
 
 Mix in order and beat hard. Spread it with a knife, 
 thinly and evenly, in a large shallow pan, and just before 
 you put it in the oven, sprinkle the top with white sugar. 
 
 When cold, cut into squares or diamonds. 
 
 Canadian Gingerbread (no Eggs). 
 
 4 pound butter. 
 
 1 pound flour. 
 
 4 pound sugar (white). 
 
 14 tablespoonfuls ginger. 
 
 1 nutmeg (grated). 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 4 cupful milk (warm). 
 
 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 
 
 Rub the butter into the flour. Add the sugar and the 
 
340 How to Cook Well. 
 
 spice, and mix them all well together. Chop the pulp of 
 the lemon very tine, and grate the rind. Then stir in the 
 milk and the soda. Work the whole into a smooth paste ; 
 put it into a shallow pan, and spread smooth and thin 
 with a knife. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty 
 minutes. When cold, cut into three-inch squares, and 
 eat fresh. 
 
 COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES. 
 REMARKS. 
 
 In mixing cookies, etc., care should be taken not to put 
 in too much flour, as this makes them hard. The only 
 remedy for it afterwards is to work into the dough a lit- 
 tle melted butter or milk. Work the flour in smoothly, 
 leaving no lumps. Press evenly in rolling out the dough, 
 so that it will not be thicker in one part than another, or 
 the cookies will bake unevenly. Of course the rolling-pin 
 and bread-board should both be floured, to prevent stick- 
 ing, and so should the cutter. Out them into rounds with 
 this, or into squares with a knife. Place them a little 
 apart in the pan, so that they will keep their shape in 
 baking. 
 
 Bake cookies in a large shallow pan or on a piece of 
 sheet-iron, either of which one can easily have made to 
 order, just the size of the oven. This facilitates the pro- 
 cess of cookey-making very much. 
 
 The size of the cookey-pan I have in view in giving the 
 amount which each receipt will make, is eighteen inches 
 square. The pan should be turned when the cookies are 
 half-done. 
 
 The oven should be hot. They will rise more quickly 
 and be more tender for being baked quickly. Ten min- 
 utes is long enough to bnke them, unless rolled very thick. 
 Jumbles require about fifteen minutes. 
 
Cake. 341 
 
 Seed Cakes (no Eggs). 
 
 2 cupf uls sugar. 
 
 2 cupfuls butter. 
 ( 1 cupful milk. 
 ( 2 teaspoonf uls caraway seeds. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 small nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Flour enough for a soft dough. 
 
 Mix in order, having soaked the seeds in the milk about 
 half an hour. Put in the flour gradually. Roll out on a 
 bread-board, not quite one quarter of an inch thick, and 
 cut with a biscuit-cutter. Bake in a quick oven about ten 
 minutes. 
 
 Cinnamon Cookies. 
 
 f 1 heaping cupful butter. 
 I li cupfuls brown sugar. 
 
 One egg, beaten light (maybe omitted), 
 f 1 cupful sour milk. 
 < 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 ( 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 
 ( Flour enough to make a soft dough. 
 
 Mix in order, stirring the cinnamon into a part of the 
 flour before putting it in. Bake ten minutes in a very hot 
 oven. 
 
 Fills cookey-pan once, and makes a few cookies over. 
 
 Sour Cream Cookies. 
 
 f 1 cupful thick sour cream. 
 ^ 1| cupfuls brown sugar. 
 
 1 egg, beaten light. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved). 
 
 Stir cream and sugar together. Mix in order. Bake 
 ten minutes in a very hot oven. These are quickly made. 
 Fills cookey-pan three quarters full. 
 
 1 dessertspoonful melted but- 
 ter. 
 
 A few drops extract of rose. 
 Flour to make a soft dough. 
 
342 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Soft Cookies. 
 
 1 heaping cupful butter, 
 li cupf uls brown sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls sour or 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 
 As little flour as will roll them 
 out. 
 
 buttermilk. 
 
 Mix in order, and roll out as evenly as possible. 
 Sprinkle granulated sugar over the entire surface. Press 
 it in slightly with the rolling-pin. Cut into rounds, with 
 a sharp tin cutter previously dipped into dry flour. Bake 
 ten or twelve minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 Plainer cookies may be made from this receipt by 
 omitting part of the butter and one of the eggs. 
 
 Fills cookey-pan two thirds full. 
 
 Nutmeg Cookies. 
 
 1 heaping cupful butter. 
 
 2 cupf uls white sugar. 
 2 eggs (beaten light) . 
 i a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- 
 solved) . 
 
 ( 4 cupf uls flour. 
 I 2 teaspoonf uls cream tartar. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 Mix in order. Proceed as with " Soft Cookies," tak- 
 ing care to work in when on the bread-board only enough 
 flour to enable you to roll them out. 
 
 These cookies should be eaten fresh. 
 
 Graham Cookies. 
 
 1 heaping cupful butter. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 \ cupful sour milk or cream. 
 
 Graham flour for a soft dough. 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 1 orange or lemon, the juice 
 only (may by omited). 
 
 ( if teaspoonful soda. 
 
 Mix in order. 
 
 Turn out on the bread-board which should be thinly 
 covered with white flour. Use white flour also on the 
 rolling-pin, as Graham flour is too sticky to roll out the 
 cookies with. Roll the dough out evenly, not more than 
 
Cake. 343 
 
 a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out with a floured tin 
 cutter of generous size. Bake about fifteen minutes in a 
 hot oven. 
 
 It fills a cookey-pan once ami a half. 
 
 These are very nice for children, and without the orange 
 or lemon are sometimes mistaken for cocoanut. 
 
 Children's Cookies (very plain). 
 
 ( 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 i 1 tablespoonful butter. 
 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 f i cupful milk. 
 1 i teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 1 tablespoonful ginger or cinnamon. 
 
 Flour for a soft dough. 
 
 Mix in order. Roll very thin. Bake ten minutes in a 
 hot oven. Fills cookey-pan three quarters full. 
 
 Spice Cookies (no Eggs). 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 2 cupfuls molasses. 
 
 1 cupful shortening (melted.) 
 jf cupful boiling water. 
 1 tablespoonful soda. 
 
 1 table spoonful ginger. 
 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 
 4 tablespoonful cloves. 
 1 tablespoonful vinegar. 
 Flour enough to roll out. 
 
 Mix all together, mixing the spice with part of the 
 flour before adding it. Roll thin, and bake ten minutes, 
 taking care that they do not burn. Anything containing 
 molasses is liable to burn. 
 
 Ginger Snaps. 
 
 1 pint molasses. 
 
 1 cupful butter, or half lard. 
 
 1 teaspoonful ginger. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda. 
 A little salt. 
 
 Flour enough to make a stiff 
 doujrh. 
 
 Put all the ingredients excepting the flour into a large 
 pan. Set this on the fire and let it come to a boil ; then 
 stir till well mixed. Remove from the fire, and when 
 
344 How to CooJc Well 
 
 nearly cool, add flour enough to make a stiff dough. (If 
 you use too small a pan it will foam over.) 
 
 Roll out as thin as paper and cut out. Bake in a hot 
 oven about three minutes. They burn easily. These are 
 very dainty and brittle. Add more ginger if you like. 
 
 Fills cookey-pan twice. 
 
 Ohio Cakes. 
 
 k pound butter. 
 1 pint molasses. 
 
 i pound flour. 
 Ginger to taste. 
 
 i pound brown sugar. 
 
 Boil the butter and molasses together for one minute. 
 Stir in the sugar while hot. Then pour it over one half 
 of the flour. Stir in the rest a little at a time with the 
 ginger. 
 
 Drop from a teaspoon on a buttered pan a little distance 
 apart, and bake about twenty-five minutes in a rather slow 
 
 oven. 
 
 Jumbles. 
 
 1 heaping cupful butter. 
 
 2 cupfuls white sugar. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 cupful milk. 
 
 4 teaspoon ful soda. 
 Flavoring to your fancy. 
 Flour as little as will roll them 
 out. 
 
 Rub the butter and sugar to a cream ; add eggs, milk, 
 soda and flavoring. Stir in the flour and turn out on a 
 floured bread-board. Roll nearly half an inch thick, 
 sprinkle with sugar, and press it in slightly. Cut into 
 rounds with a large tin cutter ; with a small cutter remove 
 the centre of each, leaving rings to be baked. (The 
 pieces that are cut out can be collected and rolled out 
 again to cut more jumbles.) 
 
 Bake about twelve minutes in a hot oven, keeping the 
 heat steady. 
 
 Another way to make them is to make a roll of the 
 douo-h about as thick as your finder, twist it around and 
 dip into sugar before laying it in the baking-pan. 
 
CaJce. 345 
 
 Shrewsbury Cakes. 
 
 i pound butter. 
 ] pound sugar. 
 4 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 teaspoonfuls mace or cinna- 
 
 mon. 
 
 pounds flour* 
 
 Mix in order. Beat very thoroughly before the flour 
 goes in. Drop in spoonfuls on buttered tins. Sift sugar 
 over them, and bake in a rather hot oven about fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 These are very fine. 
 
 Walnut Wafers. 
 
 1 cupful flour. 
 
 i pound English walnuts. 
 
 j \ cupful butter. 
 I 1 cupful sugar. 
 1 egg (beaten light). 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg and flour. 
 Chop the nuts very fine and stir them into the mixture. 
 Drop the mixture from a spoon on to buttered tin sheets, 
 and flatten with a wet stamp. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 This will make about two dozen. 
 
 If preferred, put in more flour and roll them out ; but 
 the first way is the best. 
 
 New Year's Cakes (without eggs). 
 
 ( 2^ pounds sugar. 
 
 ( 1^ pounds butter. 
 
 5 pounds flour. 
 
 i cupful brandy. 
 2table spoonfuls corian- 
 der seed. 
 
 i cupful cold water. 
 
 Rub butter and sugar to a cream. Add the flour, then 
 the water and brandy, in which the seed has been soaking 
 for half an hour. Knead well. 
 
 Roll out the dough half an inch thick, and cut out 
 square cakes. Stamp them with fanciful figures. Bake 
 about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven, a very light 
 color. If they brown too much before they are done, 
 cover them with a thick paper. 
 
 These are delicious, and will keep for six months. A 
 large quantity. 
 
346 How to Cook Well 
 
 Kissos or Meringues. 
 
 4 eggs (whites only). 
 
 2i cupfuls pulverized sugar. 
 
 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar, 
 dry. 
 
 i tablespoonful cornstarch. 
 
 Beat eggs and sugar together till very stiff. It may 
 take half an hour. Then mix in the other things. Drop 
 from a fork in little heaps on a sugared paper laid in a 
 pan, twirling the fork to give a good shape. Take care 
 to put them so as not to touch each other. They wiH 
 not run together if beaten long enough. Bake in a very 
 slow oven for about an hour. Watch them carefully. 
 They should be a delicate yellow. Take them off the 
 paper while warm. Makes two dozen. 
 
 Cream Meringues. Bake the above mixture in a 
 very hot oven about three minutes. Scoop out part of 
 the inside, fill with "Whipped Cream" and stick them 
 together two and two. 
 
 Dimples. 
 
 Make " Kisses." Have ready a quarter of a pound of 
 almonds. "Blanch" them and crush like coarse sand. 
 Just before putting the cakes in the oven, scatter the 
 almonds over the surface of each. Bake in a hot oven 
 not more than three minutes, watching them carefully. 
 Makes two dozen. 
 
 Cocoanut Drop Cakes. 
 
 1 cupful grated cocoanut. I 1 tablespoonful flour. 
 
 cupful sugar (pulverized). I 2 eggs, whites only. 
 
 Beat all well together. Drop from a teaspoon on to a 
 sugared paper, leaving a space between. Bake in a quick 
 oven about fifteen minutes. They will spread in the pan. 
 Do not let them brown. 
 
 Macaroons. 
 
 1 pound almonds " blanched." 
 A little rose water. 
 
 1 pound sugar pulverized. 
 7 eggs, whites only. 
 
 It is best to prepare the almonds the day before, as it 
 
Cake. 347 
 
 is a tedious process. Put them in a mortar and pound 
 fine, adding the rose-water by degrees. When worked 
 to a smooth paste, stir in the sugar. When ready to 
 make the cakes, beat the eggs stiff ; then add to them the 
 almond paste. Drop by spoonfuls on a delicately but- 
 tered or sugared paper, laid over a pan. Leave a good 
 space between them. Sprinkle sugar over the cakes, or 
 brush them over with the white of an egg to make them 
 smooth. Bake delicately in a slow oven about twenty 
 minutes, watching them carefully. 
 
 Doughnuts. 
 
 ii 
 
 a nutmeg grated, 
 quart flour. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- 
 der. 
 
 ( 1 pint sugar. 
 1 2 eggs. 
 
 1 pint boiling water. 
 
 i cupful melted butter and 
 lard mixed. 
 
 Beat the sugar and eggs together. Add the water and 
 shortening. Then stir in the nutmeg and the flour with 
 the baking powder in it. Add more flour to enable you 
 to roll out a soft dough about three quarters of an inch 
 thick. Cut with a biscuit-cutter, removing a round piece 
 from the centre of each. "Boil in Lard" both pieces, 
 having the lard boiling hot. (See " Fritters.") 
 
 While hot, sift sugar over them. 
 
 Raised Doughnuts. 
 
 1 pint milk. I teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cupful yeast. I 5 cupf uls flour more or less. 
 
 Mix these at night, about nine o'clock, using enough 
 flour to make a thick batter. Cover and set to rise. 
 In the morning stir in the following: 
 
 2 cupf uls white sugar. 
 1 small cupful butter and lard 
 mixed. 
 
 3 eggs (beaten light). 
 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 
 \ teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 
 
 Beat well together, and stir in more flour till the 
 
348 How to Cook Well. 
 
 spoon will almost stand alone. (It should be as stiff as 
 soft bread-dough.) Cover the pan, and set to rise until 
 light ; about three hours longer. Then roll out about one 
 half an inch thick, on a floured bread-board, and cut out. 
 Let the dough rise about fifteen minutes on the board 
 after cutting out. Them boil them like " Fritters " in a 
 deep kettle of lard. While hot, sprinkle with sugar. 
 
 Crullers (No. 1). 
 
 ( 1 cupful sugar. I 4 eggs. 
 
 ( | cupful butter. I Flour enough to roll out. 
 
 Mix in order. Roll out half an inch thick. Cut and 
 braid, or make into any fancy shapes you choose. 
 
 Boil in deep lard like " Fritters." Sift sugar over them 
 while hot. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 
 1 tablespoonf ul vinegar. 
 Flour enough to roll out. 
 Flavor to taste. 
 
 ( 1 cupful sugar. 
 < 1 egg. 
 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 2tablespoonfuls melted 
 butter. 
 
 Beat the sugar and egg together. Add milk and butter. 
 Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, and mix it in after a 
 little of the flour has been put in; also the flavoring. 
 Proceed as above. 
 
 DRINKS. 
 Tea. 
 
 Fill the teapot with hot water, then pour it out. After 
 thus heating the teapot, throw into it one even teaspoon- 
 ful of tea allowed for each person, and one for the teapot. 
 Cover with boiling water, and set on the front part of the 
 stove long enough to count thirty. Then fill up with 
 boiling water, allowing one cupful water to each teaspoon- 
 ful tea. Set the pot where it will keep as hot as possible 
 
Drinks. 349 
 
 but not boil. Serve at the end of fifteen minutes. If 
 steeped longer it will be too strong. Tea made in this 
 way is perfection ; it should never boil. After making 
 tea once, neither it nor the water need be measured, if 
 you notice how much was used ; but to insure having 
 always equally good tea, the proportion must be kept the 
 same. 
 
 Make ten fresh every time ; or if there is tea left to be 
 used over, pour it off at once into a clean pitcher (never 
 tin) till time to heat it ; if left standing on the leaves it 
 will become rank. 
 
 Save the tea-leaves to scatter over a carpet on sweep- 
 ing-day ; they brighten the colors. They also make ex- 
 cellent poultices for weak eyes or chilblains. 
 
 Tea a la Busse. 
 
 Slice thin one or two lemons. Lay a slice in the bot- 
 tom of each cup. Pour the hot tea over, and sugar to 
 taste. No cream is used. This is refreshing in hot 
 
 weather. 
 
 Iced Tea. 
 
 Make tea several hours before it is to be served. Pour 
 it into a clean pitcher, and when cool, set on ice. Serve 
 with a lump of ice in the bottom of each cup. 
 
 Another way is, to put into a pitcher, six hours 
 before serving, the usual amount of tea and water (one 
 teaspoonful tea to each cupful of water), but use cold 
 water. 
 
 Serve as above. As this requires no cooking it is con- 
 venient in hot weather ; you can then let the fire go out 
 when you please. 
 
 Coffee (No. 1). 
 
 Every one has her own pet way of making coffee. 
 Here are two rules, Loth good, though differing widely. 
 Heat the coffee-pot. Throw into it one tablespoonful 
 
350 How to Cook Well. 
 
 of coffee allowed to each person, and one for the coffee-pot. 
 Put in the shells of an egg, and pour on one cupful of 
 boiling water for each tablespoonf ul of coffee. Hoil hard, 
 eight or ten minutes. Then pour a little cold water down 
 the spout, arid set the pot where it will keep hot, but not 
 boil, for three minutes. Serve at once, as it spoils by 
 standing. 
 
 No. 2. Mix the coffee smooth in cold water, with a 
 little white of an egg. Add one cupful cold water to 
 each tablespoonful coffee, and set the coffee-pot on the 
 stove, stopping up the spout with a cork. This will pre- 
 serve all the aroma. Let it just come to a boil, but not 
 boil. 
 
 Coffee to be in perfection should be freshly browned 
 and ground, but this cannot always be attained. Mocha 
 and Java, mixed in the proportion of one of Mocha to two 
 of Java, are usually considered best. Java alone ranks 
 next. Water both for coffee and tea should be freshly 
 boiled, never use that which has stood in the tea-kettle 
 over night. The directions given above are for coffee 
 made in an ordinary coffee-pot. This must be washed 
 every time it is used and put away dry, or you will never 
 have good coffee. The least particle of stale coffee- 
 grounds burnt on the sides, will give a bitter flavor. 
 
 Cafe au Lait. 
 
 Make coffee by either of the ways given above, but 
 make it a trifle stronger than usual. Clear it well, and 
 pour it off the grounds at once. Add an equal quantity 
 of hot boiled milk, and set it on the fire for a moment to 
 ensure its being very hot when served. 
 
 One third the quantity of cream may be used instead of 
 milk. 
 
 Harmless Coffee. 
 
 This is an excellent substitute for coffee, for those 
 
DrinJts. 351 
 
 whose nerves do not allow them to drink the real article. 
 14 pints molasses. ll pound best ground coffee, 
 
 i peck coarse wheat bran. 
 
 Rub the molasses through the bran thoroughly. It can 
 be done best with the hands. Then put it in the oven, stir- 
 ring often until perfectly dry ; it may take all day. Or you 
 may put it in the oven, with the door open over night, 
 and it will not take so long. Then separate it into thirds 
 (so that your dripping-pan will not be too full at one time) 
 and bum it on the top of a moderate fire, stirring con- 
 tinually until the whole is of a very dark brown. When 
 all is done, and while still hot, mix through it one pound 
 of the best ground coffee. When perfectly cold, put it 
 into a tightly-closed tin box, or into glass jars, and use 
 
 like real coffee. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Allow one dessert-spoonful of grated chocolate to each 
 cup. Allow a half cupful each of milk and water to each 
 person (or use milk alone). Put the milk and water on 
 to boil in a double boiler. When boiling fast, dip out a 
 very little on the chocolate, and rub till smooth. Then 
 pour the chocolate into the hot milk. Boil for five min- 
 utes ; and then for every four cupfuls, mix in one egg well 
 beaten, and previously mixed with a little of the boiling 
 chocolate. As soon as thoroughly mixed, pour into a 
 pitcher, or the egg will curdle. 
 
 Be careful to boil the chocolate, and for fully five min- 
 utes ; and you will never complain of chocolate made in 
 this way being muddy. 
 
 Sweeten in the cups, not while boiling. 
 
 The egg may be omitted, if it is preferred to have it 
 not so rich, or the yolk or white alone may be used. 
 
 Chocolate with "Whipped Cream." 
 Make chocolate as above, and lay a spoonful of 
 " Whipped Cream " on the top of each cupful after it is 
 
352 How to Cook Well. 
 
 poured out. If you want the chocolate very rich, mix the 
 beaten white of one egg through each cupful. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 Make like chocolate (without the egg), allowing one tea- 
 spoonful to each cup of milk and water. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. 
 
 Mash well the berries, which should not be over-ripe. 
 Strain the juice and pulp through a thin cloth, squeezing 
 the pulp thoroughly. Set the juice away to settle until 
 next day. Then skim, and strain through a thicker, 
 closer cloth. 
 
 To each gallon of juice add two and one half or two and 
 three fourths pounds of granulated sugar. Stir until the 
 sugar is dissolved. Put the juice into wide-mouthed 
 jugs, or into jars, reserving a small quantity. Tie a 
 cloth loosely over the mouth of the jugs. As fermenta- 
 tion proceeds, skim off daily, and fill up with the reserved 
 juice. Fermentation ceases in about ten days. Decant 
 and cork lightly until November. Then draw off from 
 the lees, and bottle and cork tight. Some add one gallon 
 of boiling water to each bushel of berries, before mashing, 
 but it is better not to do so, as this is apt to make the 
 wine sour. 
 
 Blackberry Cordial. 
 
 Mash and boil as many berries as you please. Strain, 
 and to each gallon of juice add 
 
 pounds white sugar. 
 
 ounce ground allspice. 
 
 4 ounce ground cloves. 
 
 Boil again till the juice thickens. When cool, add one 
 half cupful of good brandy to each quart of juice. Bottle 
 tight, and keep in a cool place. Fit for use at once. 
 
 Excellent for diarrhoea. 
 
Drinks. 353 
 
 Cherry Bounce. 
 
 1 peck wild cherries (black). 
 5 quarts rum, brandy or whis- 
 
 2 quarts water. 
 
 li pounds white sugar. 
 
 key. 
 
 Pound the cherries sufficiently to crack the stones. 
 Put them into a deep stone jar with the spirit, and stir 
 well. Pour oft' into a demijohn, cover tight, and let it 
 stand two or three months, shaking it very often. At 
 the end of that time, squeeze through a bag and add the 
 water and sugar. 
 
 Ready to use in one week, but improves the longer it 
 is kept. It will keep for years. This makes a very large 
 quantity. As it is troublesome to make, it is best to 
 make enough to last several years. This is to be used in 
 sickness, not more than a tablespoonful at a time. An 
 excellent tonic. 
 
 .Currant Wine. 
 
 4 (crowded) quarts currants on 
 the stem. 
 
 4 quarts best brown sugar 
 (white if preferred). 
 
 4 quarts water. 
 
 Crush and bruise thoroughly the currants. Add the 
 water ; mix well, and strain through a flannel bag. To 
 each four quarts of juice add four pounds of sugar. 
 Leave it in an open vessel until the sugar is well dissolved, 
 and then put in a keg or stone jug, and put in the cellar. 
 
 Cork loosely until the wine has worked sufficiently. If 
 in a keg, the wine can remain in it; but if in jugs, it should 
 be drawn and bottled about April or May. 
 
 Grape Wine. 
 Make like " Blackberry Wine." 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. 
 4 quarts red raspberries. I Sugar. 
 
 1 quart vinegar. 
 
 To two quarts of the raspberries add the vinegar, and 
 let it stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through a 
 
354 How to Cook Well. 
 
 flannel bag, and pour it over the other two quarts of 
 berries. Let it stand as before and strain again. Allow 
 three fourths of a pound of white sugar to one pint of 
 juice. Stir well. Place it in a stone jar, in a kettle of 
 water, and let it boil until the sugar dissolves. Bottle and 
 seal. 
 
 A tablespoonful or two to a glass of water makes a 
 nice drink in hot weather, and it is especially grateful to 
 fever patients. 
 
 Spruce Beer. 
 Checkerberry leaves (a large 
 
 handful). 
 Black cherry-tree bark (very 
 
 little). 
 Winter-green (a little). 
 
 Sassafras root. 
 Horse-radish (very little) . 
 Dandelion root (very little). 
 Spruce, three or four twigs 
 (leaves and all). 
 
 Put all in a kettle and cover with water. Let it steep 
 three or four hours, but not boil. Then let it cool. 
 Strain and add 
 
 1 cupful molasses. I 2 quarts cold water. 
 
 ^ cupful potato yeast. 
 
 Put it in a jug. Cover the jug (uncorked) with a net- 
 ting, and leave it to ferment (about one and a half days). 
 When ready, cork it tight. 
 
 The second time you make it, use no yeast ; but pour 
 the new beer on the dregs of the old. 
 
 Cream Beer. 
 
 ounces tartaric acid. 
 
 1 ounce cream of tartar. 
 
 2 quarts water. 
 
 2 pounds white sugar. 
 
 2 eggs, whites, well beaten with 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 
 
 Put all together. Scald. When cool, add a little of any 
 kind of flavoring. Bottle, and keep in a cool place. 
 
 To use it, put two tablespoonfuls of syrup to a glassful 
 of cold water ; add half a teaspoonf ul of soda ; beat it 
 and drink at once while foaming. 
 
 A delicious, cool drink on a hot day, and an excellent 
 substitute for soda water when that cannot be had. 
 
Fruits. 355 
 
 STEWED AND BAKED FRUITS. 
 
 Apple Sauce. 
 
 Peel and core tart, juicy apples, and cut them into even 
 slices. Stew with water enough to barely cover them, 
 crushing them often with a wooden spoon. When half 
 done, add sugar. Then boil down to a smooth, pulpy 
 mass. Serve with nutmeg grated over the top. Never 
 throw away a spoonful of apple sauce. It can be used for 
 custard, and an endless variety of things. 
 
 Dried Peaches or Apples Stewed. 
 
 Soak for two hours in cold water enough to more than 
 cover them, having washed them well. Then stew slowly 
 in the same water till tender enough to be pierced by a 
 straw. Add a little sugar shortly before taking them off 
 the fire. 
 
 The dried peaches one gets nowadays are almost equal 
 to those which are canned for sale, and are far cheaper. 
 
 Stewed Rhubarb. 
 
 Cut the stalks into inch-long pieces, with or without 
 peeling the latter makes a richer dish. Put it into a 
 porcelain sauce-pan, and pour boiling water over it. Let 
 it stand a moment, then drain. (This will remove the 
 intense acidity, and less sugar will be required.) Set it 
 on the fire, with very little water, let it stew till tender 
 (about eight minutes), then sweeten plentifully, and re- 
 move. 
 
 Vary it by adding a few raisins ; they impart an 
 agreeable flavor. 
 
 Clarified Apples. 
 
 Peel and core large, firm apples enough to cover the 
 bottom of a preserving kettle, or a deep tin pan. Nearly 
 cover them with cold water. Cover the kettle, and boil 
 slowly (or they will lose their shape) until tender. Then 
 
356 How to CooJc Well 
 
 take them out carefully. Allow one cupful of sugar to 
 every three apples. Boil this with the water ten minutes. 
 
 Return the apples to the syrup, and boil slowly again, 
 until clear. Lay them carefully into the dish they are to 
 be served in and pour the syrup over. 
 
 If the apples are sweet, boil thin slices of lemon with 
 the syrup. 
 
 Apples Stewed Whole. 
 
 A less expensive dish than that above. Prepare the 
 fruit and proceed in the same way, but allow one cupful 
 of sugar to one dozen apples. Put it in with the apples as 
 soon as they are tender, then cook ten minutes longer all 
 
 together. 
 
 Jellied Apples. 
 
 Fill a quart pudding-dish with alternate layers of thinly 
 sliced sour apples, brown sugar and cinnamon. Pour 
 over all one half a cupful of water ; cover with a plate, 
 buttered, to prevent its sticking. Bake very slowly for 
 three hours; then let it stand until cold. When it is 
 turned out, there will be a solid mass of clear red slices 
 imbedded in firm jelly. 
 
 Serve with cream and nice crackers. This is a simple 
 and delicious dish, nice enough for a Sunday dessert. 
 There should be a great deal of sugar used to ensure its 
 turning out in good shape. Other spices may be added 
 if you like. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 
 Wash, and prick the skins with a fork to prevent their 
 bursting. Lay them in a pan with a very little water in 
 the bottom. Bake in a moderate oven, one hour if sour, 
 longer if sweet. Dip -the juice over the tops once or 
 twice while cooking. Just before they are done, sprinkle 
 sugar and cinnamon over the tops, and when you take 
 them out of the oven, let them stand covered till cold, to 
 have them in perfection. 
 
Fruits. 357 
 
 Delicate Baked Apples. 
 
 Pare and core the apples. Lay them in an earthen 
 dish, with a very little water in the bottom. Fill the 
 centre of each apple with sugar and a lump of butter, or 
 a slice of lemon. Cover, and bake slowly for three quar- 
 ters of an hour. 
 
 These are delicious, especially if served with " Whipped 
 Cream." They then make a good dessert. 
 
 Sweet crackers should be served with them. 
 
 Apples Baked in a Jar. 
 
 Put the fruit, without paring, in a stone jar, with 
 layers of sugar, and fill the jar with cold water. Cover 
 tight, and bake in a slow oven for three hours. If sweet 
 apples are used, no water or sugar should be added. 
 They will themselves form a rich syrup. 
 
 Baked Fears. 
 
 Just like " Baked Apples," but add one half as much 
 molasses as you have water in the pan, and omit sugar. 
 Hard winter pears can never be baked so as to be tender. 
 
 Pears Baked in a Jar. 
 
 Put twelve large pears in a sauce-pan. Add the rind 
 of one lemon, cut thin, and the juice; a small stick of 
 cinnamon, and a little allspice. Cover with water and 
 allow one pound of sugar to each one and one half pints 
 of water. Cover close, and bake six hours in a slow oven. 
 They will be tender and of a bright color. If you choose 
 add a little red wine, or cloves, when you cook them. 
 
 Baked Quinces. 
 
 The easiest way is to rub them hard, to remove the 
 fuzz; bake like apples (but longer), and serve cold with 
 cream and sugar. 
 
 A Nicer Way is, to peel, core and quarter them. 
 
358 How to Cook Well 
 
 Lay them in a dee]) dish ; allow half a cupful of sugar to 
 every eight quinces, and dissolve it in warm water enough 
 to more than cover them. Pour over the fruit, cover 
 close, and bake in a slow oven till tender enough to be 
 pierced by a straw. Serve cold with cream. 
 Save cores and skins to make a 4 ' Syrup Sauce." 
 
 * Stewed Pears. 
 
 Juicy pears are delicious done in this way. Peel them, 
 but leave the stems on. Proceed as with "Apples 
 Stewed Whole," but when you put in the sugar, add a 
 little ginger and a few thin slices of lemon. 
 
 Hard pears should be boiled for one and a half hours, 
 very slowly, in equal parts of molasses and water. No 
 sugar is needed, but the ginger and lemon are necessary 
 to flavor them. These will keep for two weeks if kept 
 covered ; and if sealed while hot they will keep till spring. 
 
 Stewed Berries, Cherries or Grapes. 
 
 Stew with not enough water to cover them, as a great 
 deal of juice will be drawn out of the fruit. Heat grad- 
 ually, and sweeten to taste when half-done. Cherries 
 need not be stoned, but look them over carefully as they 
 are apt to be wormy. Grapes should be strained when 
 done, to remove the seeds. 
 
 Berries which are not ripe enough to eat raw with 
 safety, or which are so ripe that you fear they will not 
 keep, are utilized by stewing. (Any stewed berries that 
 are left over may be used for " Berry Charlotte.") If the 
 stewed berries are very juicy, it is an improvement to 
 thicken the juice with a little cornstarch. 
 Stewed Prunes. 
 
 Wash, cover with cold water and stew slowly for about 
 an hour ; do not take them from the fire till tender enough 
 to be pierced by a straw, and the skins look nearly 
 smooth. Sweeten just before taking them up. 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 359 
 
 Stewed Raisins. 
 
 Cover with cold water, and stew till tender; adding very 
 little sugar, and one or two slices of lemon, shortly before 
 serving ; or cinnamon and cloves may be substituted for 
 the lemon. 
 
 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 
 
 BEMAKKS. 
 
 A porcelain-lined kettle is the best for preserving. 
 Stir preserves with a wooden spoon. Use white sugar 
 unless brown is specified. The fruit should be fresh. 
 That which is not too ripe is best. Be careful to put in 
 none which is decayed. It should be boiled slowly, other- 
 wise it will not keep its shape. Too long boiling spoils 
 the color, and makes some kinds tough and hard. 
 
 A jelly-bag may be made of flannel, but crash is better. 
 It should have large loops of tape sewed at each top 
 corner, through which a large stick or broom-handle can 
 be passed. Rest each end of the stick on the back of a 
 chair and hang the bag between, with a large earthen 
 vessel underneath to catch the juice. Wet the bag in 
 hot water, then wring dry. Have a second person hold 
 the bag open while you pour the fruit in. Do not squeeze 
 the bag, but let the juice drip through during several 
 hours. (This will insure its being clear.) Once in a 
 while the pulp may be gently stirred with a wooden spoon. 
 
 Both jellies and preserves should boil without ceasing. 
 Do not cover them when done, till cold, though they 
 should be put at once into glasses or jars. Fill them as 
 fall as possible, so as not to leave room for the air. Keep 
 them in a dark cool place, where they will not freeze. If 
 your house is damp, cover with brandied paper. 
 
360 How to CooJc Well 
 
 Syrup for Preserves. 
 
 2 pounds granulated sugar. 
 
 1 egg (white only). 
 
 < 1 pint clear cold water. 
 
 Put the sugar and water into a porcelain-lined kettle. 
 Set it on the fire. Before the syrup becomes hot, beat the 
 egg slightly and mix thoroughly into it. When it begins 
 to boil, skim it. Do not let it boil over, but let it boil 
 until no more scum rises. The object of the egg is to 
 clarify the syrup. It can be made without. 
 
 To Make Bich Preserves. 
 
 Any kind of fruit can be preserved in syrup in this way. 
 Weigh the fruit after stoning and paring, and allow one 
 pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Make of this a 
 syrup as above. Then put in the fruit, and boil slowly till 
 clear. Fill jars two thirds full of fruit ; boil the syrup 
 almost to a jelly, and pour hot over the fruit. 
 
 Candied Fruits, 
 
 Peel and stone plums, peaches, or cherries. Have 
 ready a thick syrup, made by boiling together one pound 
 of sugar to one cup of water. (This is the proportion^ 
 Put in the fruit, and boil very slowly till tender. Do 
 not leave it on the stove after this, it would spoil the 
 shape of the fruit. Set away the preserving-kettle, just 
 as it is, in a cool place. Leave the fruit in the syrup for 
 two days, to absorb it. Take out the pieces then, and 
 drain them. Sprinkle each one thickly with granulated 
 sugar, covering every side. Lay them on clean paper, 
 and set in the air (but not in the sun) to dry. Turn them 
 often. 
 
 Pack in pasteboard boxes, v ith paper laid between the 
 layers. Keep in a cool place. 
 
 Candied fruit is easily made, and is useful in a house 
 subject to the sudden arrival of company, as a variety of 
 pretty desserts can quickly be made with it. 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 361 
 
 Tutti-Frutti Preserve (without boiling). 
 
 Begin to make this preserve with the first fruit that 
 comes, and put in some of every kind in its season, until 
 fall, being sure to use one pound of black cherries, for 
 they improve the color of the preserve. 
 
 Do not wash berries. Prepare other fruit as for pre- 
 serving, removing peels, cores and stones. Quarter the 
 large fruits. Use as much or as little of any kind of 
 fruit as you like. The idea is to blend the flavor of all. 
 The fruit must be sound and ripe, and perfectly dry. 
 Weigh what you put in each time, and allow to one pound 
 of fruit three quarters of a pound of granulated sugar. 
 Use a two gallon stone jar with a cover. Put in it one 
 quart of white brandy, or Arrac do Batavia. Keep the jar 
 in a cool, dry place, taking care to* cover it every time 
 after putting in the fruit. The fruit is not to be cooked, 
 but merely dropped into the brandy with the sugar, and 
 stirred well with a wooden spoon. 
 
 The whole must be stirred thoroughly every day to dis- 
 solve the sugar, and ensure the success of the preserve. 
 
 Ready for use within a week after the last fruit is put 
 in. It will keep a year, and is very rich and delicious. 
 
 Brandy Peaches (No. 1). 
 
 Weigh the peaches, and weigh an equal number of 
 pounds of sugar. Pour boiling water over the peaches, a 
 few at a time, then the skins can be easily removed with- 
 out waste, or injury to the fruit. 
 
 Have ready a large stone jar, and put each peach in it 
 as soon as skinned, until you have a layer of peach. 
 Sprinkle thickly with sugar. Fill up the jar with layers 
 of peaches and sugar till all are used. The heat of the 
 peach melts the sugar, and thus a syrup is made. For 
 one basket of peaches allow three quarters of a gallon of 
 white brandy. 
 
362 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 Cover the jar, and leave them Several days. Then put 
 into glass jars and seal. 
 
 If any of the sugar should remain undissolved in the 
 bottom of the stone jar, when you remove the fruit, stir 
 it well in the jar before pouring over the peaches. 
 
 Although this receipt is called Brandy Peaches, one can 
 just as well use the spirits of white whiskey, or, as it is 
 sometimes styled, French spirits. It is only one quarter 
 the price of the genuine article, which is very scarce, and 
 rarely imported. A dishonest dealer will sell the spirits 
 for it, anyway. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Pare the peaches, and drop each one, at once, into cold 
 water. 
 
 Make a very rich " Syrup," and boil a few at a time in 
 it, until they are tender enough to run a straw to the pit. 
 Then lay them separately on dishes till they are quite cold. 
 
 Make a new syrup, as rich as possible, using only enough 
 water to moisten the sugar. Put the peaches in the jars, 
 until about two thirds full. To every cupful of syrup put 
 a cupful of white brandy, and fill up the jars. Lastly, 
 throw in each jar two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
 and seal them. 
 
 These will keep a number of years. 
 
 For directions about brandy, see last receipt. 
 
 Preserved Peaches. 
 
 Pare, stone, and weigh the fruit. The skins may be 
 removed by scalding, like tomatoes ; there is then less waste 
 than if a knife is used. Allow one pound of sugar to 
 each pound of peaches. Put half the sugar at the bottom 
 of the kettle, then the fruit and the rest of the sugar, 
 with half a cupful of water to every four pounds. Heat 
 slowly, and boil steadily and gently until the fruit is clear 
 and tender (about an hour and a half). Take out the 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 363 
 
 pieces with a skimmer, and spread on platters to cool. 
 Boil the syrup fifteen minutes longer fast / stir it and 
 take off the scum. Fill the jars two thirds full of peaches. 
 Pour on the boiling syrup, and when cold, seal. (Three 
 and three fourths pounds peaches fill two quart jars.) If 
 any syrup is left add one cupful sugar to a quart, and boil 
 down to a jelly. 
 
 Preserved Citron. 
 
 Peel the citron, and cut into thin slices. To each pound 
 of citron put one pound of sugar. Put alternate layers 
 of citron and sugar in a deep bowl, and let it stand over 
 night. In the morning the bowl will be full of syrup. 
 Put the syrup on the stove. When boiling hot, add the 
 citron and let it boil gently half a day, or until it is trans- 
 parent. Add a few slices of lemon, and seal in jars. 
 
 Preserved Watermelon Rind. 
 
 ' Pare off thin the green outside, and cut away the white 
 soft part inside. Then cut into various shapes, and soak in 
 salt and water over night. Line your kettle with grape 
 leaves. Boil in .clear water three times, putting a piece 
 of alum into the second water, and keeping the rind 
 covered closely with grape-leaves all the time. After each 
 boiling, throw it immediately into cold water, in which let 
 it remain until it becomes cool. When it can be pierced 
 with a straw it is sufficiently done. 
 
 To every pound of rind (weighed before boiling) allow 
 one and a quarter pounds of sugar and two cupfuls of 
 water. Have a syrup prepared of the sugar and water. 
 Drain the rind after the last boiling through a colander, 
 and throw it into the syrup with lemon peel cut into thin 
 strips, using also the juice. Let it boil slowly (two hours, 
 or more probably) until transparent. A few pieces of 
 root ginger boiled with it is an improvement. 
 
 The rind of one medium-sized melon fills two quart jars. 
 
364 How to Cook Well 
 
 Transparent Preserves. 
 
 and Lemon.') 
 
 Use fair, sweet, firm apples. Pare them, and cut them 
 across the core in slices a quarter of an inch thick. Remove 
 seeds, but not the core. Weigh them. Boil very gently 
 in a little water, till tender; then lift carefully on to 
 platters. 
 
 Use half the number of lemons that you have of 
 apples. Weigh them. Cut them across the core like the 
 apples. Remove the seeds and lay the slices on platters. 
 Take the weight of apples and lemons in sugar. 
 
 Sprinkle half of it over the lemon slices ; let it stand 
 several hours, until enough liquid has formed to cook them 
 in. Drain it off. Put it in a porcelain kettle with the 
 rest of the sugar. When it boils, drop in the lemon and 
 apple slices, and boil gently until the fruit is clear. 
 
 Those who dislike the taste of lemon peel, can use the 
 lemon juice only. 
 
 Preserved Tomatoes. 
 
 (Small, round, yellow Ones.) 
 
 Scald and peel ripe tomatoes. To each pound put one 
 pound of sugar. Scatter it over the fruit and let it stand 
 over night. In the morning, drain off the syrup which 
 will have formed, and boil it about ten minutes, re- 
 moving the scum. Put in then the tomatoes, and boil 
 gently fifteen minutes. (Tomatoes lose their shape and 
 become mushy if boiled fast.) Then skim them out, 
 and spread on platters to cool. Boil the syrup till it 
 thickens (about fifteen minutes longer). Put the fruit 
 in jars with a few slices of lemon in each jar, and pour 
 the syrup over them. 
 
 Seal when cold. 
 
 Any frufc may be preserved in this way. 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 365 
 
 Green Tomato Preserves. 
 
 This is a good way to use green tomatoes left on the 
 vines late in the season, after making piccalily. Take 
 inside slices of smooth green tomatoes. To eight pounds 
 of fruit allow four pounds of sugar. Make like " Preserved 
 Tomatoes" (yellow) ; but add to the syrup, after taking out 
 the fruit, six lemons (sliced) to every eight pounds. 
 
 Preserved Pine-apple. 
 
 Remove skin and eyes. Grate the pine-apple, or prepare 
 thus: holding the pine-apple in the left hand, with a 
 silver fork tear out small bits, beginning at the stem end. 
 Throw away the core which is left. To each pound of 
 pine-apple thus prepared allow three fourths of a pound of 
 sugar. Put the sugar on the fire with one cupful of cold 
 water to every two pounds of sugar. Heat slowly and let 
 it just begin to boil before adding the fruit, which should 
 be made very hot first by being set in a sauce-pan put 
 into boiling water at the back of the stove. (Heating 
 the fruit in this way before adding to the syrup prevents 
 that hardness which is often so disagreeable in preserved 
 pine-apple.) Boil all together slowly for fifteen minutes. 
 Then put into jars, and seal when cold. 
 
 Four medium-sized pine-apples will fill two quart-jars 
 and one pint. 
 
 Another (without boiling). Take pine-apples which are 
 fully ripe, yet not soft. Pare them and pick out the eyes. 
 Cut into round slices half an inch thick. Allow one 
 and one quarter pounds of sugar to one pound of fruit 
 thus prepared. Put layers of fruit and sugar in a jar, 
 putting in the sugar tldckly, or some will be left over 
 after the fruit is all in. Seal, and keep in a cold place. 
 This keeps perfectly, is quickly prepared without the 
 heat of a fire, and is as good as freshly sugared pine-apple 
 a year afterwards. 
 
3G6 How to Cook WeU. 
 
 Preserved Apples. 
 
 Peel, qunrter, and core firm, sour apples (ISTewtown 
 pippins are best). To each pound of fruit thus prepared 
 allow one pound of sugar (brown will do). Put the 
 latter on the fire with one pint of water for every 
 three pounds of sugar. Boil till it thickens well. Then 
 skim and put in the fruit, with one lemon (sliced) for 
 each pound of fruit, and a few pieces of whole white 
 ginger (may be omitted). Boil very slowly, as apples 
 easily lose their shape, till clear and they begin to fall. 
 Then fill the jars. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer, 
 skim, and pour over the fruit. Seal when cold. Make 
 jelly of the skins and cores. (See Quince Jelly.) 
 
 Preserved Pears, 
 
 Peel, but leave the stems on. To every six pounds of 
 pears thus prepared allow four pounds of sugar and two 
 cupfuls of water, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of 
 one and one fourth of a cupful of whole white ginger. Put 
 all together except the pears, and boil twenty minutes. 
 Skim, and put in the pears. Boil slowly till tender 
 (about one hour). Take them out and boil the syrup till 
 very thick. Then skim it. Return the fruit and boil 
 slowly for two or three minutes. Then put into jars, and 
 seal while hot. (A little prepared cochineal should be 
 added to give them a good color, if you wish them to 
 look handsome.) The hard winter pear should be used 
 for this. 
 
 Preserved Plums. 
 
 Green Gages and Egg-plums should be scalded for a 
 moment to remove the skins, as with tomatoes. Damsons 
 and small plums are preserved with the skins on ; prick 
 them with a needle to try to prevent their bursting, though 
 it is impossible wholly to avoid this. If you prefer, the 
 large plums may be preserved with the skins on, also 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 367 
 
 pricking them in the same way. Allow one pound of 
 sugar to each pound of fruit. Put them in layers in a 
 preserving-kettle, with sugar at top and bottom. Add 
 one pint of water to every six pounds. Heat gradually 
 to draw out the juice. As soon as it comes to a boil take 
 out the plums carefully with a skimmer and spread upon 
 platters in the sun. Boil the syrup till thick, skimming 
 well. Put back the plums and boil ten minutes. Spread 
 on platters again, but in a cool place. When cold and 
 firm, fill jars two thirds full. Pour the hot syrup over, 
 and seal at once. 
 
 Preserved Quinces. 
 
 The yellow, orange quince is the best for preserving; 
 the other is too hard. Pare, quarter, and core (saving 
 skins, seeds and cores for jelly, as there is much richness 
 in them). Cover the quinces with plenty of water and 
 simmer till tender. Take out carefully and spread upon 
 platters to cool. Measure the liquor, and to every pint 
 allow nearly one pound of sugar. Boil up once and skim. 
 Then add the fruit and boil slowly for three quarters of 
 an hour. Then put into jars. 
 
 An Economical way to make Quince Preserves, is to 
 prepare sweet apples in the same manner as the quinces, 
 and allow one third apple to two thirds quince by weight, 
 but do not allow any sugar for the apple. When the 
 quinces are clear, take them out and put the apples into 
 the syrup ; boil till they look as red as the quinces (about 
 two hours). Then put the apple and quince alternately 
 in the jars, and pour the syrup over. Seal when cold. 
 
 When eaten, the apple and quince cannot be distin- 
 guished from one another. 
 
 One half a peck of quinces will fill four quart jars. If 
 apples are used of course it will increase the quantity. If 
 any syrup is left over, save it for flavoring custards, etc. 
 
368 How to Cook Well 
 
 (it will keep several weeks), or to put with the juice from 
 the skins and cores when you make jelly of them. 
 
 Preserved Currants. 
 
 Weigh equal quantities of sugar and fruit stripped 
 from the stalks. Boil the fruit, allowing half a cupful 
 of water to each pound of fruit, for ten minutes. Stir, 
 and crush with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar (brown 
 will do), having heated it as for jelly. Boil ten minutes 
 longer exactly. Then put into jars and seal. (Two pounds 
 of currants will fill three pint jars. One pound of cur- 
 rants equals one heaping pint.) 
 
 Preserved Blackberries. 
 
 The " high " blackberries are not good preserved. To 
 one pound of the " low " blackberries allow one pound of 
 sugar. Put in layers in the kettle with sugar on top, and 
 fruit on the bottom. The fruit is so juicy that no water 
 is necessary. Heat gradually, boil gently one hour, stir- 
 ring often. Then put in jars and seal hot. 
 
 Preserved Oranges. 
 
 (Marion Harland's Receipt.) 
 
 (This is the very best way to make Orange Preserves.) 
 Allow pound for pound. Pare half of the oranges 
 and cut the rind into shreds. Boil in three waters until 
 tender, and set aside. Grate the rind of the remaining 
 oranges, and take off and throw away every bit of the thick, 
 white, inner skin; quarter all the oranges, and take out 
 the seeds. Chop or cut them into small pieces ; drain all 
 the juice that will come away, without pressing them, 
 over the sugar. Heat this, stirring until the sugar is dis- 
 solved, adding a very little water, unless the oranges are 
 very juicy. Boil and skim five or six minutes; put in the 
 boiled shreds and cook ten minutes ; then the chopped 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 369 
 
 fruit and grated peel, and boil twenty minutes longer. 
 Put into jars, and when cold seal. 
 
 Two dozen oranges fill three quart-jars and one pint-jar. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Peel the fruit. Put the peels on to boil. Let them boil 
 a long time, changing the water several times. Cut the 
 oranges across the grain, so as to remove the seeds. Take 
 off all the thick, white skin. Put the peel through 
 the colander ; then weigh peel, pulp and juice, all to- 
 gether. Allow a little more than three quarters of a 
 pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Put it on the 
 fire, and notice when it begins to boil. After that let it 
 boil twenty minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burn- 
 ing. Put into bowls; and when cold, paste paper over 
 them. 
 
 Three dozen oranges will fill nine pint-jars. 
 
 Grape Jam. 
 
 "Wash the grapes, and while wet, separate the skin from 
 the pulp, keeping them in two different dishes. Put the 
 pulp into the preserving-kettle. When thoroughly heated, 
 pass it through a strainer to separate the seeds ; then 
 put with it the skins, and weigh. To one pound allow 
 three quarters of a pound of sugar. If necessary, add a 
 very little water to keep from burning ; but, in general, 
 grapes are juicy enough of themselves. 
 
 Boil slowly three quarters of an hour. 
 
 This is a delicious jam. 
 
 The skins are separated from .the pulp, so that the lat- 
 ter will pass more readily through the strainer. Never 
 put grapes, even for a moment, into tin, for the tin will 
 discolor them. 
 
 The wild grape is much the best for this purpose. 
 
370 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Quince and Pear Marmalade. 
 
 Wash and quarter the fruit, without paring or coring 
 it. Then boil it in enough water to cover it. When 
 rather soft take it out, cut out the cores and pare off the 
 skin, and cut it into thin slices. 
 
 Weigh the fruit and allow half a pound of sugar 
 to one pound of fruit. Put the sugar into the water in 
 which the fruit was boiled, and boil to a syrup. Stew 
 the fruit gently in this until the syrup is absorbed, stir- 
 ring almost constantly. Then put it away in jars ; to be 
 covered when cold, with paper pasted over it. 
 
 If you like, flavor this with lemon or cinnamon just 
 before removing from the fire. 
 
 Tomato Marmalade. 
 
 Use either green or ripe tomatoes, or both together. 
 Scald and skin them. 
 
 To each pound of tomatoes add, 
 pound brown sugar. 1 1 teaspoonful cloves, 
 
 i tablespoonful cinnamon. 
 
 Stew alt together, without the addition of water. Stir 
 constantly as they thicken. When reduced to a thick 
 pulp, remove from the fire; put into jars, and when cold 
 paste paper over them. 
 
 This is a pleasant accompaniment to cold meat. 
 
 Rhubarb Marmalade. 
 
 2 pounds rhubarb, cut into 
 pieces. 
 
 pounds sugar, 
 lemon, rind only. 
 
 Put all together into a deep dish, cutting the rind of 
 the lemon fine. Let it stand till the next day. Then 
 pour off the juice into a porcelain preserving-kettle, and 
 boil nearly three quarters of an hour. Add the fruit and 
 boil ten minutes. Put into jars, and seal when cold. 
 
3 pounds peaches. 
 3 pounds quinces. 
 
 Preserves and Jellies. 371 
 
 Medley Marmalade. 
 
 1 pound apples. 
 4 lemons. 
 
 2 pounds pears. 
 
 Pare, stone, and core the fruit. Weigh it and slice 
 thin or chop coarse. To every pound of fruit allow 
 half a pound of sugar. Put the fruit and sugar in 
 alternate layers, and leave until next day. Then put all 
 together into the preserving-kettle, with the pulp of the 
 lemon, and the rind cut into very thin strips. Boil a long 
 time, stirring frequently almost constantly after it 
 begins to thicken. When it looks clear and is almost as 
 thick as jelly, dip it into bowls, and when cold, paste 
 paper over the top. This can be made into jam, by put- 
 ting it into jars before it thickens much. 
 
 It is very delicious either way. If you cannot get all 
 these fruits, any two or three alone are good. Save cores 
 and peel to make a delicious jelly. (See Quince Jelly.) 
 
 Jam (any Kind of Fruit). 
 
 Pare, core, and quarter the fruit. (Use sour or sweet 
 apples, pears, quinces, peaches, etc., or berries of any kind.) 
 Boil (gently at first) in enough water to cover them, until 
 quite soft. Then add a few pieces of root ginger, and the 
 rind and juice of a lemon, with three quarters of a pound 
 of sugar to one pound of fruit. Boll (stirring constantly) 
 until thick. Put into jars, and when cold seal. 
 To Can Fruit. 
 
 Any kind of fruit can be canned in this way. Simply 
 boil it till tender, adding, when half done, sugar to 
 taste. It is not necessary to have more thai* one table- 
 spoonful to each quart, for it is not the amount of suc/ar 
 that ensures the "keeping" of the fruit, but its being 
 sealed while boiling hot. The less sugar used, the better, 
 for then you get the flavor of the fresh fruit, which is 
 so desirable in canned things. As soon as the fruit is 
 
372 How to Cook Well 
 
 thoroughly tender, and the sugar is entirely dissolved, 
 put into jars in this way ; set the jars in a large pan of 
 warm water at the side of the stove, having rolled them, 
 with the tops off, in a pan of very hot water. (Be sure 
 to see that the jars, with the rubbers and tops, are all in 
 order, before you put the fruit to cook.) Do not have 
 the rubbers on. With a ladle dip the hot fruit into the 
 hot jars, putting one ladleful into each in turn, to heat 
 them all gradually, and prevent their cracking. Then, 
 without taking from the stove, wipe off carefully around 
 the tops, where any of the fruit or juice has been spilled, 
 and slip on the rubbers. With a cloth wrapped around 
 the jar to prevent burning your fingers, hold the jar firm, 
 while you screw on the top. When all are screwed down, 
 begin at the first and screw more tightly ; you will find as 
 the day goes on that this will have to be repeated several 
 times, for as the jars cool they will shrink, thus leaving 
 the tops loose. In this repeated tightening of the tops, 
 lies one great secret of success in canning. If these 
 directions are carried out, and the jars kept in a cool 
 dark place, the fruit will keep for a year or more without 
 any trouble ; i. e. if care is taken to use only fruit which 
 is in prime condition (ripe, but not over ripe), and no 
 decayed pieces are put in. Some say it is well to put a 
 silver fork in the jars while filling them to prevent their 
 cracking. 
 
 Canned Tomatoes. 
 
 Get the Trophy tomato if possible, early in Septem- 
 ber. Scald and take off the skins. Cut in small pieces, 
 taking care not to put in a particle of green, for that 
 would cause them to ferment. Add no water. Heat and 
 boil fast. If you heat slowly too much juice is drawn 
 out. Add a little salt. Boil ten minutes. Then pour 
 boiling hot .into glass jars, and seal at once. 
 
 One half bushel fills eight quart-jars. 
 
Preserves and Jellies. 373 
 
 String Beans Canned, 
 Just like " Canned Tomatoes." These keep well. 
 
 TO MAKE JELLY. 
 
 All fruit can be made into jelly by the same rule, 
 though some kinds require less water than others in boil- 
 ing, on account of their juciness, and less sugar is required 
 for quinces than for other fruit. Tart fruits make the 
 firmest jelly. Before making jelly read over directions 
 on page 359. Boil the fruit (which should not be over 
 ripe) in just enough water to cover it. Then strain in 
 a bag ; without squeezing, if you want a very clear jelly. 
 A good plan is to make jelly of the juice obtained with- 
 out squeezing, in one kettle ; then squeeze the pulp that 
 is left, and make an inferior jelly (suitable for jelly-cake, 
 etc.), in a separate kettle. 
 
 Measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow one 
 pint (or one pound) of white sugar. Put the juice on the 
 fire, and spread the sugar on platters in the oven, so that 
 it and the juice will be hot by the same time. Leave the 
 oven door open, and stir the sugar often to prevent burn- 
 ing. If it docs burn, it will not be spoiled, for the lumps 
 can be taken out after it is added to the juice. Notice 
 when the juice begins to boil, and boil it exactly twenty 
 minutes from the time it begins. Then add the sugar, 
 and stir quickly, till well dissolved ; no longer. Let it boil 
 up a moment without touching it, and then fill the glasses 
 (prepared as for canning) without delay, before the jelly 
 stiffens. Do not cover till cold. No jelly should be 
 boiled for any length of time ; it darkens it and spoils the 
 flavor. 
 
 Grape Jelly. 
 
 Boil the grapes without the addition of water, but 
 mash them well. Proceed as above. Allow one pint 
 
374 How to Cook Well 
 
 of sugar to one pint of juice for ripe grapes. The green 
 wild grapes should have one and a quarter pints sugar to 
 one pint juice. 
 
 Barberry Jelly. 
 
 Proceed as with other jelly, but this will need to boil 
 ten minutes after the sugar is added. 
 
 Apple or Crab-apple Jelly. 
 
 Cut the fruit in quarters without paring, and boil in 
 enough water to cover it. There is much richness in the 
 seeds and skins. 
 
 See To Make Jelly. 
 
 Quince Jelly. 
 
 Proceed as with "Apple Jelly," but allow only three 
 quarters of a pint of sugar to one pint juice, as the juice 
 is very rich. A good jelly can be made from the skins 
 and cores alone, left from preserving quinces. Boil them 
 with three or four whole quinces, for a long time, till the 
 liquor has a strong flavor. Then proceed as with other 
 jelly, allowing one pint of sugar. 
 
 Currant Jelly. 
 
 (Condensed from Scribnefs Monthly.') 
 
 Use the currants as soon as fully ripe. Do not wash 
 them, but pick them over. Weigh them, without taking 
 off the stems. Allow half a pound of granulated sugar to 
 every pound of fruit. Put a few currants into a porce- 
 lain-lined kettle, and press out the juice to prevent burn- 
 ing ; then add the remainder of the fruit, and boil freely 
 for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burn- 
 ing. Take out and strain through a three-cornered bag, 
 into earthen vessels, never in tin. When strained, return 
 it to the kettle, without measuring. Let it boil thoroughly 
 for a moment or so. Then add the sugar. The moment 
 
Catsups and Pickles. 375 
 
 the sugar is entirely dissolved, it is done, and must be im- 
 mediately put into glasses. 
 
 This receipt never fails, and it is the easiest way to 
 make jelly. 
 
 Other Jellies 
 
 are all made alike. See, To Make Jelly. 
 
 CATSUPS AND PICKLES. 
 "Walnut Catsup. 
 
 Gather walnuts while tender enough to run a needle 
 through them. Pound in a marble mortar. Put them in 
 
 O 
 
 a preserving-kettle. Cover them with water and let them 
 simmer for two hours. Strain out the liquor, and to 
 every pint add one tcaspoonful each, garlic, mace and 
 cloves. Boil it down to less than half the quantity. Fill 
 bottles half-full, and fill up with strong vinegar. Cork 
 tight. It is ready for use at once. 
 
 Cucumber Catsup (without Cooking). 
 
 1 dozen large, ripe cucumbers. 
 3 onions, minced. 
 
 1 tablespoonful salt. 
 1 quart best vinegar. 
 
 3 red peppers, minced. 
 
 Pare the cucumbers, and grate them, taking out all the 
 seeds. Put this pulp into a bag of thin muslin, or cheese- 
 cloth, and hang it up to drain over night. In the morn- 
 ing throw away the liquid which has dripped out. To 
 what is left in the bag add the ingredients given above. 
 Stir well after putting in the vinegar, and bottle and cork 
 tightly. 
 
 This will keep well all winter, and is an extremely good 
 relish for fish. 
 
 Tomato Catsup (No. 1). 
 
 Take small, red, ripe tomatoes ; wash, but do not skin 
 
376 
 
 How to CooJc Well. 
 
 them. Boil in a porcelain kettle for one hour from the 
 time they begin to boil. Then rub them through a hair 
 sieve. To each quart of juice add 
 
 1 table spoon ful cinnamon. 
 tablespoonful black pepper. 
 \ tablespoonful cayenne pepper. 
 
 i a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 1 tablespoonful good mustard. 
 
 i cupful salt. 
 
 Taste it after stirring well together, and add more salt, 
 if necessary. Boil all together for three hours. Then 
 measure again, and to each quart of juice add one pint 
 of good cider vinegar. 
 
 Boil half an hour longer. Bottle hot, and seal hot. 
 
 This will keep for years, and will not require to be 
 shaken before using. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 1 gallon tomatoes. 
 
 1 pint vinegar. 
 
 9 tablespoonfuls salt. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls black pepper. 
 
 3 tablespoonfuls mustard seed. 
 1 teaspoonful cayenne. 
 k teaspoonful cloves. 
 teaspoonful allspice. 
 
 Peel, boil and strain the tomatoes ; then add the other 
 ingredients, and boil until reduced one half. Bottle and 
 seal while hot. 
 
 Cold Catsup (no Cooking). 
 
 j J peck ripe tomatoes. 
 I Salt. 
 
 2 roots horse-radish (grated). 
 
 cupful salt. 
 
 cupful white mustard seed. 
 
 i cupful black mustard seed. 
 
 1 cupful fine chopped onion. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful black pepper. 
 
 2 red peppers cut fine (without 
 
 seed). 
 6 heads celery chopped fine. 
 
 1 teaspoonful ground cloves. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls ground cinna- 
 
 mon. 
 l pints vinegar. 
 
 Slice the tomatoes fine. Sprinkle salt lightly over 
 them and let them stand two hours. Measure out the 
 other ingredients and mix them together. Then drain 
 the tomatoes well, put them in the mixture, and stir all 
 thoroughly together. Seal in jars. 
 
Catsups and Pickles. 377 
 
 English Chertney. 
 
 4 pounds tomatoes. 
 
 3 pounds raisins. 
 
 G large onions (grated). 
 
 1 pound salt. 
 
 1 ounce cayenne pepper. 
 
 1 quart vinegar. 
 
 2 pounds brown sugar. 
 
 " Bake " the tomatoes. " Stone " and chop the raisins. 
 Mix all together, mashing the tomatoes fine. Stir occa- 
 sionally for a day or two, then bottle. No more cooking 
 is necessary. 
 
 Chili Sauce. 
 (^1 Nice JSelish for Cold Meat.) 
 
 1 bushel ripe tomatoes, peeled. 
 
 2 dozen onions. 
 
 1C large red peppers. 
 
 1 pint salt. 
 
 18 tablespoonfuls brown 
 sugar. 
 
 2i quarts vinegar. 
 
 Chop the tomatoes, onions and peppers. Boil all to- 
 gether for a long time. Seal while hot. 
 
 Spiced Currants. 
 (To eat with Meats.) 
 
 5 pounds ripe currants, 
 
 stemmed. 
 4 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 pint vinegar. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cloves. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. 
 
 Boil all together half an hour. Put into jars and seaJ 
 when cold. 
 
 This will keep for years. 
 
 Pickled Blackberries. 
 
 3 quarts blackberries. I 1 quart brown sugar. 
 
 1 quart vinegar. 
 
 Boil all together for ten minutes and seal hot. 
 
 Nasturtium Seed (without boiling). 
 
 Gather the seed, while green, and drop them as you 
 collect them, into a bottle of cold vinegar. Ready for use in 
 six months. They are an excellent substitute for capers. 
 
378 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Sliced Cucumbers. 
 
 Slice one dozen ordinary-sized cucumbers and on* 1 dozen 
 lemons. Sprinkle with salt, and let stand for two hours. 
 Drain well, and have ready on the stove boiling vinegar 
 with pepper. Drop in the cucumbers and let them come 
 to a boil. Then put into glass jars and seal. Use spices, 
 if you like. These are like a dish of fresh cucumbers. 
 Pickled Apples. 
 
 1 quart good vinegar. 
 G cupfuls brown sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 Apples sweet or sour, but firm. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cloves. 
 
 Bring the vinegar and sugar to a boil. Remove the 
 scum and put in the spices. 
 
 Pare, core and quarter the apples, and put them into 
 the syrup. Let them boil very slowly until they can be 
 easily pierced with a broom straw. 
 
 Pickled Pears. 
 1 peck hard pears. 
 
 1 ounce cinnamon. 
 
 1 ounce cloves. 
 
 1 ounce white mustard seed. 
 
 2 quarts vinegar. 
 
 3 pounds brown sugar. 
 
 While the vinegar and sugar and spices are heating, 
 peel the pears, but do not core them. Leave the stems 
 on. (If you choose you need not even peel them.) Lay in 
 the pears, and boil slowly, having the kettle covered. 
 When tender take them out, put them in a stone jar, and 
 pour the liquor (boiling hot) over them. When cold, 
 tie a cloth over the top of the jar. 
 
 Sweet Pickle. 
 (Pmrs, Peaches or Cherries.} 
 
 Pare peaches and pears. Stone peaches and cherries. 
 To seven pounds of fruit, allow 
 
 3i pounds good brown sugar. 
 1 pint vinegar. 
 
 1 ounce mace. 
 1 ounce cloves. 
 
 1 ounce cinnamon. 
 Put the fruit in a jar. Boil the vinegar and spice (tied 
 
Catsups and PicJdes. 379 
 
 in a bag) together, and pour while hot over the fruit. Let 
 it stand two days. Then pour off the vinegar. Bring it to 
 a boil and put in the fruit. Boil all together until clear. 
 Put into a jar, and when cold tie a cloth over. 
 
 Sweet Cucumber Pickles, or Water-Melon Rind. 
 
 12 ripe cucumbers. 
 2 quarts vinegar. 
 2 pounds sugar. 
 
 1 ounce cloves (whole). 
 1 ounce cinnamon (stick). 
 Salt. 
 
 Pare and quarter the cucumbers, and scrape out the 
 seeds and inside, leaving only the rind. Sprinkle them 
 with salt and let them stand over night, to draw out the 
 bitterness. 
 
 In the morning rinse off the salt, and put them in a 
 porcelain kettle, with the vinegar, sugar and spices, in a 
 bag. Boil all together slowly twenty minutes. Take out 
 the cucumbers when tender and boil the liquor for half 
 an hour longer. Pour it over the cucumbers while hot. 
 Put them in a stone jar with the bag of spices. 
 
 It will keep a year even if unsealed. 
 
 Water-melon rind, pared, may be pickled in the same 
 way. If you wish you may leave the cloves out of the 
 bag, and stick them into the rind. 
 
 It ensures their keeping, if after a few days the liquor 
 is drained off, boiled over again, and poured over the 
 pickles once more. 
 
 Pickled Cabbage. 
 
 1 large firm head of cabbage. 
 
 i dozen onions. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 1 pint vinegar. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful ground mustard. 
 
 1 teaspoonful black pepper. 
 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 
 1 teaspoonful turmeric. 
 1 teaspoonful mace. 
 1 teaspoonful allspice. 
 1 teaspoonful celery seed. 
 
 Remove the outside leaves of the cabbage and shave 
 fine ; chop the onions. Put them in layers with the salt, 
 and leave for twenty-four hours. Then scald the vinegar ; 
 
380 How to Cook Well 
 
 add the sugar and spices, and boil for a few minutes. 
 Add the cabbage and onions drained ; simmer for half an 
 hour, and put into jars. 
 
 Red cabbage may be mixed with the white. 
 
 Pickled Cabbage (without boiling). 
 
 Shave a head of cabbage, and pack firmly in a jar, with 
 layers of salt, pepper and two tablespoonfuls white mus- 
 tard seed (also two red peppers, and two heads celery, 
 chopped, if you like). Pour cold vinegar over all. 
 Sprinkle the top with powdered cloves. Cover with a 
 small plate, with a weight on it (a stone will do) to keep 
 the cabbage under the vinegar. Cover the jar. This 
 will be ready to use in about a week and will keep sev- 
 eral months. 
 
 Pickled Cucumbers. 
 
 Take small cucumbers. Wash them carefully and 
 place in stone jars. Make a weak brine (a handful of 
 salt to one and a half gallons of water). When scalding 
 hot, turn over the cucumbers and cover. Repeat this 
 three mornings in succession, taking care to skim thor- 
 oughly. On the fourth day put a piece of alum, the size 
 of a walnut, into a porcelain kettle of vinegar. Make it 
 scalding hot and then put in as many cucumbers as the 
 vinegar will cover. Do not let them boil, but take them 
 out as soon as scalded through, and replace with others, 
 adding each time a small piece of alum. (The alum is to 
 make the pickles crisp.) When this process is through, 
 throw out the vinegar; and replace with good cider or 
 white wine vinegar and spices in the following proportion : 
 
 1 gallon vinegar. 
 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 2 or three red peppers (or 
 
 green). 
 
 14 dozen allspice, whole. 
 1 dozen blades mace. 
 3 tablespoonfuls white mus- 
 tard seed. 
 
 3 dozen cloves, whole. 
 
 While this is heating, sort the pickles, and place in 
 
Catsups and Pickles. 381 
 
 stone, or glass jars. When the spiced vinegar is scalding 
 hot, pour it over the pickles. Seal, and put away the jars 
 not needed for immediate use. 
 
 Pickles thus prepared are still fine and crisp at the 
 end of a year. 
 
 Dutch Cucumbers. 
 
 Boil and skim three gallons of water, and two pounds 
 of coarse salt. Select cucumbers from six to eight inches 
 long. Wash and wipe them carefully ; then put a layer 
 of them in a big stone jar; one that will hold at least four 
 gallons. Then put in a layer of grape leaves and a bunch 
 of dill seed on the stalk. Go on in 'this way till the jar 
 is full, topping it with plenty of cabbage leaves. On the 
 very top put a large stone. Fill up with the brine, and 
 let it stand. Quiet fermentation takes place. In about 
 two or three weeks your cucumbers are done, and ought 
 to be transparent, like amber, with a sub-acid flavor. 
 
 Mustard Pickle. 
 
 1 quart onions. 
 1 quart tomatoes. 
 1 quart cucumbers. 
 
 1 quart cauliflower. 
 
 2 quarts vinegar. 
 
 J cupful flour. 
 \ pound ground mustard. 
 J teaspoonful cayenne pep- 
 per. 
 J ounce curcuma. 
 
 cupful sugar. 
 
 Chop the onions and tomatoes, slice the cucumbers, 
 pick up the cauliflower, and put them to soak over night 
 in a weak brine (i. e., cold water slightly salted). In the 
 morning, drain, and boil them fifteen or twenty minutes 
 in the vinegar and sugar, reserving a part with which to 
 moisten the flour, mustard, pepper and curcuma. Add 
 these and boil ten minutes longer. 
 
 The curcuma is to give it a handsome color, and is ob- 
 tained at a drug store. 
 
 You can omit soaking the night before; in that case 
 add salt while boiling. 
 
382 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Picalily (No. 1). 
 
 \ bushel green tomatoes. 
 1 dozen onions (large). 
 1 dozen green peppers. 
 
 1 pint salt. 
 Vinegar. 
 
 2 pounds brown sugar. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. 
 1 tablespoonful allspice. 
 1 tablespoonful cloves. 
 1 tablespoonf ul pepper, 
 i cupful mixed mustard. 
 1 pint grated horse-radish. 
 
 Chop rather fine the tomatoes, onions and peppers. 
 Mix well together, and drain off the juice. Put in a jar 
 with layers of salt over night. In the morning drain off all 
 the juice, squeezing as dry as possible. Cover with vine- 
 gar, and boil slowly for one hour in a porcelain kettle. 
 Drain off the vinegar and pack in jars. Put into a kettle 
 the sugar and spices, the mustard and horse-radish, with 
 enough fresh vinegar to cover the pickles. Let it come 
 to a boil. Then pour, boiling hot, over the pickles. 
 
 When cold, cover closely. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 1 gallon green tomatoes, 
 chopped line. 
 
 1 quart onions, chopped fine. 
 pint salt. 
 
 Mix and leave it to stand over night. In the morning 
 drain well, and add 
 
 4 green peppers, chopped fine. 
 4 teaspoonfuls mustard seed. 
 2 teaspoonfuls black pepper. 
 2 teaspoonfuls cloves. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls allspice. 
 
 4 teaspoonfuls celery-seed. 
 1 cupful sugar. 
 
 3 pints cider vinegar. 
 
 Boil all for about fifteen minutes. A little ginger and 
 cinnamon may also be added, if liked. 
 
 Pickles Without Boiling. 
 
 4 quarts green tomatoes. I Salt. 
 
 5 large onions. 
 
 Chop coarsely, or slice the tomatoes and onions. Put 
 
For the Sick. 383 
 
 them in layers with salt between and let them stand 
 twenty-four hours. Then drain and mix in 
 
 2 ounces white mustard seed. 
 
 li tablespoonfuls cloves (ground). 
 
 l tablespoon fuls ginger (ground). 
 
 li tablespoonfuls allspice. 
 
 li tablespoonfuls pepper. 
 
 i cupful mustard (dry). 
 
 Cover with cold vinegar ; mix well before putting into 
 jars, and seal it up. Excellent and very easily made. 
 Heady for use in one month. Keeps only one year. 
 
 FOR THE SICK. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Never consult the sick about what they shall eat, but 
 notice for yourself what they do and do not like. If you 
 find something that has suited their taste, do not over- 
 whelm them with too constant a repetition of it. Make con- 
 stant variety. Serve daintily, with the prettiest dishes 
 you have, and remove the tray from the sick-room as 
 soon as the meal is over. If a little blanc mange or 
 pudding is made for an invalid, have it in a little mould 
 by itself. This is much more appetizing than a piece cut 
 from a large pudding. 
 
 Menu for Convalescents. 
 
 Mutton Broth. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 
 White Soup. 
 
 Clam Broth. 
 
 Raw Oysters. 
 
 Stewed Oysters. 
 
 Poultry Hash (use dark meat 
 
 only). 
 Boiled Chicken. 
 
 Raw Tomatoes. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Panada. 
 
 Water Crackers with Jelly. 
 
 Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Milk Toast. 
 
 Dipped Toast. 
 
 Milk Cracker Toast. 
 
384 
 
 How to Coo7t Well. 
 
 Menu for Convalescents. (Continued.) 
 
 Quail on Toast. 
 Broiled Birds. 
 Beef Sandwiches. 
 Panned Oysters. 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 Poached Eggs. 
 Boiled Eggs. 
 Baked Omelet. 
 Sweet-Breads. 
 Frogs' Legs. 
 Boiled Rice. 
 Boiled Macaroni. 
 Milan Macaroni. 
 Cereals of all kinds (see Break- 
 fast). 
 Stewed Celery. 
 
 Poor Man's Pudding. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 
 Apples Stewed Whole. 
 
 Clarified Apples. 
 
 Stewed Berries, etc. 
 
 Ices and Ice Creams. 
 
 Iced Tea. 
 
 Lemonade, Orangeade. 
 
 Cocoa. 
 
 Cream Puffs. 
 
 Cream Pie. 
 
 Custards. 
 
 Blanc Mange. 
 
 " Delicacies for Dessert." 
 
 Beef for the Sick. 
 
 The juiciest meat lies on the top of the round, in the 
 large round muscle. Never use fat meat for an invalid. 
 
 O 
 
 The following ways of preparing beef are contributed by 
 a trained nurse of much experience, at one time head of 
 the Massachusetts Training School for Nurses. 
 
 Beef Juice. 
 
 Lay one pound lean beef cut in thick strips on a grid- 
 iron, and hold it over a clear fire for a moment to draw 
 the juice to the surface. Then squeeze the strips in a 
 lemon-squeezer. Add a little salt and give cold, a spoon- 
 ful or two at a time, in cases of extreme illness. Even 
 infants may take it when they are much reduced. It is 
 very easily assimilated, and much to be preferred to beef 
 tea in serious illnesses. One pound of meat yields about 
 three tablespoonfuls of juice. If preferred hot, heat by 
 setting the cup containing the juice in another of hot 
 water; otherwise it will curdle. This of course is much 
 stronger than beef tea. 
 
For the Sick. 385 
 
 Beef Tea. 
 
 Cut lean beef into small pieces. Pour cold water over 
 it, a little more than to cover it. Let it stand for two 
 hours. Then put into a sauce-pan all together, adding a 
 very little water, cover and simmer very slowly till the 
 juice is all extracted, and the meat like leather. Then 
 salt it slightly and strain. 
 
 Beef Tea for Convalescents. 
 
 1 ounce butter, hot. 
 
 1 small onion (minced). 
 
 1 saltspoonful salt. 
 
 pints cold water. 
 1 pound lean beef. 
 
 Fry the onion in the butter till delicately browned. 
 Add the beef, cut into small pieces, and stir till like thin 
 gravy. Add then the salt and water, and simmer gently 
 for three quarters of an hour. Skim off every particle of 
 fat, if there is any, and serve hot with small squares of 
 toast. 
 
 Beef in Various Ways. 
 
 1 pound lean beef. 
 
 2 wineglasses sherry. 
 1 tablespooiifnl sugar. 
 
 Lemon-juice to taste. 
 1 heaping tablespoonful gela- 
 tine. 
 
 Cut up the beef ; put it in a bottle ; cork tightly ; plunge 
 it into boiling water, and boil until the juice is extracted 
 (about two hours). To this juice add the sherry and 
 other ingredients, and pour it into little moulds to cool. 
 This cannot be distinguished from ordinary jelly, and is 
 much more nourishing. 
 
 Another. Chop fine o.ne pound lean beef. Add one 
 and one half pints cold water, eight drops muriatic acid, 
 and one pinch of salt. Let it stand one hour; drain off 
 the liquid without pressure, and add half a pint of cold 
 water. Strain and give iced as a drink. It will not keep 
 long in warm weather. 
 
 Another. To one pint chopped beef add one pint 
 water; place it in a covered vessel, and cook very slowly, 
 
386 How to Cook Well 
 
 until the beef is hard. Strain off the juice, which should 
 be a clear liquid like water. Freeze it and give in lumps 
 like cracked ice. 
 
 A little celery salt, or 
 A few bits of celery. 
 
 Another. 
 
 1 pound beef. 
 
 1 tumbler milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful cornstarch. 
 
 Extract the juice of the beef in a bottle (as in the first 
 method). Boil the milk ; thicken it with the cornstarch 
 and add it to the juice. Flavor with the celery salt, or 
 with the bits of celery. If you use the last, boil them in 
 the milk and take them out before serving. 
 
 Hints on Giving Milk. 
 
 When milk cannot be retained, add four tablespoonfuls 
 lime-water to one pint of milk, and give in small quanti- 
 ties, beginning with one teaspoonful at short intervals. 
 The quantity may be increased when more can be taken. 
 Milk made lukewarm, or milk made very hot, but not 
 boiled, can sometimes be retained when cold milk is re- 
 jected. The latter is excellent to induce sleep, taken 
 after getting into bed. 
 
 Boiled milk, given cold, is the best form for use when 
 there is diarrhoea. 
 
 Milk in the form of " Junket " makes a soft and di- 
 gestible blanc mange. 
 
 Cream and water can often be digested when milk 
 cannot. 
 
 Albuminized Milk. 
 
 Break the whites of two eggs into one pint of milk. 
 Shake well in a bottle or self-sealing jar, until they are 
 thoroughly incorporated. This is a valuable food in fever 
 or cases of debility. It may be flavored with rose water 
 or extract of vanilla for convalescents. 
 
For the Sick. 387 
 
 Albuminized Lemonade. 
 
 Put into a self-sealing jar one pint of water, the juice 
 of two lemons, the whites of two eggs, and three table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar. Shake the jar until the contents are 
 thoroughly mixed. More sugar may be added if required. 
 
 Koumiss. 
 
 1 quart milk. | l tablespoonfuls liquid yeast. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 Use morning's milk before the cream rises. Dissolve 
 the sugar in as little water as possible, and add that and the 
 yeast to the milk. Mix well. Let it stand in an earthen 
 dish near the fire for four or five hours, as you would 
 yeast till the surface is covered with bubbles. Then put 
 into two champagne bottles, each holding a quart (i. e. 
 put one and one half pints koumiss in each bottle, for the 
 bottles should not be filled to the top). Cork tight and 
 tie securely. Leave the bottles upright for three, four 
 or five days, in a temperature of from fifty degrees to sixty- 
 five degrees. When ready for use, there will be a leakage 
 around the corks. Set on ice before drinking. It should 
 be used within a week at farthest. It is well to draw it 
 off by a syphon, as it will not keep after being uncorked. 
 
 This is very delicate and is easily retained by a weak 
 stomach, when ordinary milk cannot be taken. 
 
 Graham Gruel. 
 
 f i cupful Graham flour. I f 1 quart boiling water. 
 
 \ i cupful cold water. | \ 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 
 
 Stir the flour smooth in the cold water. Pour it 
 into the salted boiling water, over the fire, stirring smooth 
 as you put it in. Cover, and leave it to boil for an hour. 
 (N. B. It is best to boil it in a double-boiler, as it will not 
 then scorch.) Serve as it is, or with the addition of a 
 little milk, if the patient can take it. 
 
388 now to Cook Well. 
 
 Oatmeal Gruel, 
 i cupful oatmeal. | 1 quart milk or water. 
 
 Boil slowly together until the oatmeal is well cooked. 
 Then pass through a sieve, adding salt or sugar to taste. 
 
 Another (more delicate). 
 1 cupful oatmeal. | 1 quart water. 
 
 Mix together and let it stand over night. In the morn- 
 ing drain off the water, add one saltspoonful of salt, and 
 boil till it thickens. This can be given in cases of severe 
 
 illness. 
 
 Oatmeal Cordial. 
 1 quart water. 
 
 tahlespoonfuls oatmeal. 
 
 pinches mace. 
 
 pinches grated nutmeg. 
 l.| teaspoonfuls ground cinnamon. 
 1 lemon, juice only. 
 8 tablespoonfuls tine sugar. 
 1 pint wine. 
 
 Boil the water. Mix the oatmeal and spices in a 
 cupful of cold water and stir into the boiling water. Boil 
 ten minutes. Put in the lemon juice and sugar, and 
 stir gently and constantly. Then add the wine. Boil 
 all for a few minutes, and strain. 
 
 Use Robertson's Prepared Oatmeal. 
 
 A Very Delicate Egg Gruel. 
 
 Beat one egg in a bowl. Add salt, a little parsley (may 
 be omitted) and a teacupful of boiling water. Stir fast 
 as you pour it in. Cut into small pieces a slice of toasted 
 bread, and pour the gruel over it. 
 
 This makes just enough for one person. 
 
 Another. Beat the yolk of one egg with one table- 
 spoonful of sugar. On this pour two thirds of a cupful 
 boiling water. Beat the white of the egg stiff, with one 
 teaspoonful of tine sugar, flavor to taste, and put on top. 
 A little wine for flavor, or tart jelly, is excellent.. 
 
For the Sick. 389 
 
 A Hearty Egg Gruel. 
 
 ( Very Nourishing.} 
 
 Boil eggs two hours. Mash the yolks fine. Boil new 
 milk and stir gradually upon the mashed yolks, until of 
 the consistency of cream, or thinner. Add a little salt. 
 
 Excellent in case of nausea. 
 
 Barley Water. 
 
 pound pearl barley. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 2 quarts cold water. 
 
 Wash thoroughly in one water. Pour this off, and 
 soak till morning in the two quarts of water. Then boil 
 in the same water till reduced one half. Skim while boil- 
 ing ; strain when done and salt it to taste. If allowed, a 
 little lemon juice may be added. The barley that re- 
 mains in the strainer is very good to eat like oatmeal, 
 with cream and sugar, if salted first. 
 
 Another. (3/ore quickly made.) 
 2 ounces pearl barley. I 2 quarts hot water. 
 
 1 cupful cold water. | A little salt. 
 
 Wash in one water only. Drain, then pour over it the 
 cupful of cold water and boil fifteen minutes. Throw 
 away this water, and pour over the barley the two quarts 
 hot water. Add salt. Boil until reduced one half (about 
 one and one half hours). Then strain. Use in fever 
 cases. 
 
 Compound Barley Water. 
 
 2 pints barley water. 
 2 ounces figs (sliced). 
 
 24 ounces raisins (seeded). 
 1 pint soft water. 
 
 5 drachms licorice root (sliced). 
 
 For barley water (see above). 
 
 Boil all together until you have two pints of liquid. 
 Then strain. 
 
 Omit the licorice if the patient dislikes it. Good in 
 cases of soreness, and good for a cold on the lungs. 
 
390 How to Cook Well. 
 
 Flour Gruel or Thickened Milk. 
 
 {1 cupful boiling water. 
 1 cupful boiling milk. 
 J teaspoonf ul salt. 
 2 teaspoonfuls flour. 
 
 Boil the water, milk and salt together. Rub the flour 
 very smooth in enough cold water to cover it, and add to 
 that which is boiling. Stir well, and boil half an hour. 
 Then serve hot. It may be made of milk alone, but is 
 then too hearty for many sick persons. Good for diarrhea, 
 especially if made with part water. 
 
 Arrowroot Gruel. 
 
 Rub two teaspoonfuls Bermuda arrowroot to a smooth 
 paste, in enough cold water to cover it. Pour on it one 
 cupful boiling water, stirring fast. Add salt, and boil for 
 a minute. Serve hot with lemon juice and sugar, if 
 allowed. Or, it may be made with milk instead of water. 
 This is used in cases of diarrhoea, and is easily digested. 
 
 Corn Meal Gruel. 
 
 1 quart boiling water. 
 
 cupful corn meal. 
 
 teaspoonful salt. 
 Make like Flour Gruel, but boil one full hour. 
 
 Raisin Gruel. 
 
 i cupful raisins. 
 1 pint water. 
 1 pint milk. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful sugar. 
 
 li tablespoonfuls flour. 
 
 Boil the raisins in the water until it is reduced one 
 half. Then pour into a bag and squeeze. When cold 
 stir the juice thus obtained into the milk. Boil with the 
 salt and sugar. Thicken with the flour, and boil all 
 together half an hour. Serve hot. 
 
 If the raisins are stoned, cut in halves and served in 
 the gruel, it is called Plum Porridge. 
 
For the Sick. 391 
 
 Caudle. 
 2 cnpfuls "Rice Water." 
 
 !1 egg (yolk only). 
 1 tablespoonf ul sugar. 
 1 winegiassful wine. 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 
 Pour the rice water boiling hot upon the egg, beaten 
 with the sugar and wine, stirring it in gradually, so as not 
 to curdle. Then add the nutmeg. 
 Rice Water. 
 
 Boil very little rice in plenty of water, salted slightly. 
 When the water becomes a little thick and tastes strongly 
 of the rice, strain it off and serve hot or cold. 
 
 For diarrhoea or feeble digestion. 
 
 Pood for a Delicate Infant. 
 
 (Dr. 3fe.igs, Philadelphia.) 
 / 17| drachms pure " milk-sugar." 
 X 1 pint hot water. 
 
 Dissolve the sugar in the water. Mix together 
 
 3 tablespoonf uls of this liquid. I 1 tablespoonful milk. 
 
 2 tablespoonf uls cream. | 2 tablespoonf uls lime water. 
 
 Warm the mixture, and the food is ready. The cream 
 should not be very rich. If the child cannot digest milk, 
 substitute " Whey." When the child is older, double the 
 quantity without changing the proportion. If less is re- 
 quired, measure with a teaspoon. 
 
 The "milk-sugar" can be obtained at a druggist's. 
 The seventeen and three quarters drachms are of " Apoth- 
 ecary's Weight." It keeps well, when dry, for an indefi- 
 nite time ; but when dissolved it sours in a day or two. 
 The whey will keep for a day or two. This is excellent. 
 
 Whey. 
 1 quart milk. | 1 tablespoonful prepared rennet. 
 
 Mix and leave to stand half an hour in a warm place. 
 Then cut it in all directions with a knife ; half an hour 
 
392 How to CooJc Well 
 
 later, pour off the whey. Leave the curd undisturbed 
 and more whey will be formed. Nothing can be better 
 than this in cases of inflammation of the stomach. Give 
 a teaspoonful at a time, very often. This will often 
 enable the stomach to retain other nourishment. Excel- 
 lent for feeble infants. 
 
 Wine Whey 
 
 1 cupful boiling milk. I Sugar. 
 
 2 table spoonfuls sherry wine. I 
 
 When the milk just reaches the boiling point, add the 
 wine, but do not stir it. Boil a moment. Take it from 
 the fire gently and let it cool in the same vessel, without 
 any stirring after the wine is put in. When the curd 
 forms, strain off the whey. Sweeten, and serve hot or 
 
 cold. 
 
 Flaxseed Tea. 
 
 >2 tablespoonfuls whole flax 
 seed. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 
 
 1 1 pint boiling water. 
 
 Boil the flaxseed and water fifteen minutes. Slice the 
 lemon into a pitcher, and add the sugar. Strain the hot 
 flaxseed tea upon it and stir. 
 
 Good for a cough or sore throat. Take a drink often. 
 Take it hot al night. Rock-candy is the best sweetening. 
 
 Chicken Tea. 
 
 Pour one pint cold water over a leg and thigh of a 
 chicken. (Use the rest for fricassee.) Let it come to a 
 boil. Add salt, and skim well. Strain. 
 
 Irish Moss Lemonade. 
 
 2 quarts boiling water. I 2 lemons, sliced. 
 
 1 handful sea-moss. I h cupful sugar. 
 
 Put all together in a pitcher, having washed the moss 
 well. Stir, to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand two hours. 
 Take it occasionally for a bad cold, or hoarseness. 
 
For tlie SicJc. 393 
 
 Dried Flour Gruel. 
 
 Tie one cupful of white flour tightly in a thick cloth. 
 Plunge it into boiling water, and boil steadily six hours. 
 Then take it out of the cloth, and let the lump become 
 perfectly dry. Then pare off the outer rind. To use it, 
 scrape off one dessertspoonful, rub it smooth in cold 
 water, and stir into one cupful boiling milk (salted). 
 This is for diarrhoea, or for teething children. 
 
 Egg-Nogg. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg with one teaspoonful sugar, in 
 a tumbler. Add half a cupful of milk. Add one or two 
 tablespoonfuls of wine, whiskey, or rum, and stir in lightly 
 the white of the egg (beaten stiff). Cover with grated 
 nutmeg. If the patient cannot take milk, prepare the 
 egg without it, or as below. 
 
 Egg Lemonade. 
 
 Beat the yolk and white of one egg separately. Then 
 beat them well together. Make half a tumblerful of 
 strong lemonade, well sweetened, and stir thoroughly into 
 the beaten egg. 
 
 Mulled Jelly. 
 
 Beat one tablespoonful red or black currant-jelly with 
 the white of an egg and a little sugar. Pour over it a 
 small cupful of boiling water. Break a cracker in it, or 
 a thin slice of toasted bread. 
 
 Ice-cold water (if allowed) may be poured over beaten 
 jelly and egg, instead of boiling water. 
 
 Coffee with Egg. 
 
 If a person likes coffee, the yolk of an egg may be 
 stirred into a cupful of very strong coffee, which is then 
 to be diluted with boiling milk to the proper strength for 
 drinking. The egg increases the nourishment, and its 
 
394 How to Cook Well. 
 
 presence is not perceptible. This is a good way to get a 
 fanciful invalid to take nourishment. The same thing 
 can be done with cocoa. 
 
 Egg Poached in Broth. 
 
 Put in a pan enough broth or stock to cover an egg. 
 Proceed as with " Poached Eggs," but moisten the toast 
 thoroughly with the broth, before laying the egg on it. 
 Be sure to season it well. 
 
 Steamed Egg. 
 
 Beat one egg very light; season with a little pepper, 
 salt, and a tiny lump of butter; pour it over a slice of 
 dry, buttered toast. Set the plate containing the toast in 
 the steamer, and let it steam for two or three minutes. 
 
 Egg Sandwiches. 
 
 Boil an egg four hours. Then mash the yolk, season with 
 salt and pepper (and add a little lemon juice if allowed, 
 and celery salt) and spread between thin slices of buttered 
 bread. Egg cooked in this way is good for dyspeptics. 
 
 Sherry Toast. 
 
 Make a nice piece of toast, and moisten it with sherry. 
 Scatter sugar plentifully over the top. Orange or lemon- 
 juice may be used in the same way. It is a grateful 
 change to any one tired of plain toast. 
 Haw Beef Cakes. 
 
 Mix two thirds of raw beefsteak, grated, with one 
 third of browned cracker, rolled fine. (Be sure to leave 
 in no coarse fibres of meat.) Season with salt and a little 
 cayenne pepper. Make into little round, flat cakes, and 
 cover the outside thick with browned cracker. 
 
 Besides being nutritious, these beef cakes are quite 
 palatable, and one would never suspect them of being 
 made of uncooked meat. 
 
 Parched corn, ground in a coffee-mill, may be used 
 instead of the crackers, and is quite an improvement. 
 
For tlie Sick. 305 
 
 Meat Paste. 
 
 (To be given frequently in cases of extreme exhaustion 
 from diarrhoea or other causes.) 
 
 Shred as fine as possible a small piece of raw moat 
 (lecf, mutton or chicken). Then rub it through a sieve, 
 so as to form a smooth paste. Mix a piece the size of a 
 pea with a little cream and sugar. Or it may bt given 
 as a sandwich, between thin slices of bread and butter. 
 (By an eminent London physician.) 
 
 Chicken Panada. 
 
 Take the dark meat of a chicken which has l>een either 
 roasted or boiled ; free it from the skin, and cut into very 
 small pieces. Bruise these in a mortar, with an equal 
 quantity of stale bread, and a little salt, adding by de- 
 grees, either the water in which the chicken was boiled, or 
 some beef tea, until the whole forms a paste. 
 
 Put it into a pan, and boil for ten minutes, stirring all 
 the time. Serve very hot. 
 
 Oranum Gruel. 
 1 cupful rich chicken broth. 
 1 cupful milk. 
 
 3 tahlcspoonfuls Imperial Granum. 
 A little salt. 
 
 Heat the broth with half of the milk. Stir the granum 
 smoothly into the other half of the milk. When the broth 
 is ready to boil, stir in the moistened granum. Add a 
 little salt, and boil a few minutes. This is delicious. It 
 may be made thinner if preferred. 
 
 Cherries for a Cold. 
 
 Fill a bottle loosely with wild black cherries crush- 
 ing about a dozen of them, stones, and all. Fill up the 
 bottle with New Orleans molasses. Tie mosquito netting 
 over the top, and leave it to ferment. Fill up once a^ain. 
 When it has stopped ferment ing, cork up tight. Fit for 
 use at once. Dose, a teaspoonful three times a day. 
 
396 How to Cook Well. 
 
 To Make a Saucerful of Ice Cream in Fifteen 
 Minutes. 
 
 Mix a small quantity of any of the "Ice Creams" given. 
 Put it into a covered pint can, and put the can in a half- 
 gallon pail of pounded ice or snow, with a large proportion 
 of coarse salt mixed in. Shake the can gently until the 
 cream begins to freeze, then leave it to set. It ought to 
 freeze in about ten or fifteen minutes. Do not let the 
 salt water get into the can. This is very easily made, 
 with very little trouble, as it needs no " freezer." 
 
 Cracker Panada. 
 
 Just like Bread Panada (below) but do not toast the 
 crackers, which should be split. Merely set the bowl in 
 the heater for an hour, no boiling being necessary. 
 
 Bread Panada. 
 
 Pare off the crusts from thin slices of bread. Toast 
 them delicately. Fill a deep bowl with them, sprinkling 
 sugar and salt (or salt alone) between the layers. Pour 
 into the bowl enough boiling water to cover the toast. 
 Cover with a saucer. Set the bowl into a kettle of boil- 
 ing water, and boil gently till the toast is like jelly. 
 
 Eat warm with sugar and nutmeg. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 To Preserve Eggs for Winter Use. 
 
 (Use an old jar, for a nice one will be stained by the 
 lime.) 
 
 To three gallons of water put one pint of salt and one 
 pound of quick-lime. Stir all together, and let it stand 
 ten days, before putting in the eggs. Put them in a few 
 at a time, as you get them, fresh. If they rise to the top, 
 when put in, the lime-water is too strong, and the eggs 
 will be cooked. In that case add water until they sink. 
 
 Eggs put up in this way will keep a year. 
 
Jfiscetlaneoiis. 397 
 
 Another Way. 
 
 Pack the eggs in layers, in bran, the small end clown- 
 wards. This should be done in a l>ox, and the box kept 
 in a cool, dry place. Corn meal or sawdust may be used ; 
 but the bran is less likely to gather moisture. 
 
 Another. Wrap each egg carefully in newspaper, and 
 pack them, small end downward, in boxes or jars. 
 
 To Bottle Cider. 
 
 Put into every quart-bottle you use, two raisins and 
 one tablespoonful sugar. Fill nearly to the top with 
 sweet cider. Put in the corks and tie down firmly. 
 Keady for use in six weeks, but improved by being kept 
 for six months, when it will be like champagne. Very 
 good for nausea. 
 
 Japanese Cream. 
 
 (For washing paint, glass and marble, and cleansing boys' clothes, 
 spots on carjtets, etc.) 
 
 5 quarts soft water. 
 
 4 ounces white rastile soap. 
 4 ounces ammonia. 
 
 2 ounces ether. 
 2 ounces alcohol. 
 1 ounce glycerine. 
 
 Cut the soap fine and dissolve it in one quart of the 
 water over the fire. Add then the rest of the water with 
 the other ingredients. Mix all together well and put 
 away in bottles. To use it, wet a soft flannel with it, and 
 rub the spots. Then sponge off with clean hot water and 
 rub dry with a clean cloth. 
 
 Soft Soap. 
 
 Try out carefully all scraps of grease and fat. The fat 
 of beef, mutton, and poultry, can all be used ; but it 
 should not be allowed to accumulate for as long as a week 
 before trying out. Each day try out what has been left 
 from the meals of the day before, and then the fat will 
 be clean and fresh. The result should l>e firm, hard 
 , < K ;u and unstruakcd, quite equal in appearance 
 
398 How to Cook Well. 
 
 to the best lard. When you have six pounds of the 
 grease, put it in a large iron pot. Add to it fourteen 
 quarts warm water, and one and one third cans Babbitt's 
 concentrated potash. This is white, like salt, and very 
 strong indeed. Let it come gradually to a boil, but do 
 not let it boil. Set it on the back of the stove, or range, 
 and let it simmer there all day. Let it remain there all 
 night. Melt it out in the morning, and when it is quite 
 melted pour it into whatever vessel you intend to keep 
 the soap in. This quantity will make a full half-barrel. 
 After pouring it in add two pailfuls of boiling water, and 
 stir briskly for some minutes with a stick, or a heavy 
 clothes-paddle, if you have one; ten or fifteen minutes if 
 you can. By evening you can add another pailful and 
 stir it up again. The next morning it may need the same 
 treatment, for the mixture may be quite stiff and hard. 
 It may need five or six pailfuls before it is of the right 
 consistency ; i. e., a soft and ropy jelly. It will improve 
 by keeping. 
 
 If properly made, it will be of an ivory white, and will 
 not make the hands smart. It is as good to use for silver 
 as for clothes. 
 
 Pickle to Cure Hams. 
 
 8 pounds ground alum salt. 
 
 1 quart molasses. 
 
 2 ounces salt petre. 
 
 ounces of potash or saler- 
 
 atus. 
 gallons water. 
 
 Allow the above to every one hundred pounds of meat. 
 Boil the mixture, skim well, and when cold pour it over 
 
 the hams. 
 
 Cottage Cheese. 
 
 Heat sour milk, or clabber (or both mixed) over the 
 fire, till the- whey separates from the curd. Drain and 
 put the curd in a thin bag to drip for five or six hours. 
 Then take out the curd and work in a little salt and 
 cream, or butter. Then form into small balls, and serve 
 
Miscellaneous. 399 
 
 in a few hours. It will not keep longer than two or three 
 days. 
 
 This is a good way to use up an accumulation of sour 
 milk in summer. It takes a great deal of milk to make 
 ljut a small amount of cheese. 
 
 To Raise Cream Quickly. 
 
 Set the milk in shallow pans and keep them in a tem- 
 perature not less than sixty-two degrees. People often 
 wonder why they can get no cream from milk in winter ; 
 it is because the milk is often left in too cold a place. 
 
 Boiled Chestnuts. 
 
 Put the chestnuts into tepid water. Notice when they 
 begin to boil. Then boil/tof for fifteen minutes. Pour 
 them into a colander to drain. Stir in, then, a small 
 piece of butter, while the chestnuts are hot. Mix well 
 till they look glossy and dry. 
 
 Chocolate Frosting (No. 2) or Caramels. 
 
 1 cupful -rratrt I chocolate. 
 
 2 cupfuls sugar. 
 
 2 eggs (yolks only). 
 | cupful milk. 
 
 Mix all together, having beaten the eggs. Set on the 
 stove, and boil (without stirring) for about fifteen min- 
 utes from the time it begins to boil ; i. e., till it will al- 
 most candy when dripped from a spoon. Then set it in 
 a pan of hot water while you spread it on the cake, with 
 a knife dipped in hot water. This will cover six large 
 layers of cake, just enough for " Chocolate Cake No. 2," 
 with which it is nice; the chocolnte in the cake-batter 
 being omitted. By boiling this mixture a little longer 
 you can make caramels, if you pour it into a buttered 
 shallow pan, and mark it into squares. 
 
400 
 
 How to Coo7c Well 
 
 Things Made 
 
 Poor Man's Pudding. 
 
 Corn Bread Without Eggs. 
 
 Junket. 
 
 Tapioca and Sago Blanc Mange. 
 
 Apple and Berry Tapioca Pud- 
 ding. 
 
 Blanc Mange (many kinds) . 
 
 Jelly Cake without eggs. 
 
 Lemon, Wine, Cider and Other 
 Jellies. 
 
 Without Eggs. 
 
 Buttermilk Griddle-Cakes. 
 
 Brown Betty. 
 
 Fruit and Berry Charlotte. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Pies. 
 
 Whipped Syllabubs. 
 
 Cinnamon Cookies. 
 
 Cornmeal Pudding. 
 
 Gingerbread Pudding. 
 
 Squash Pudding. 
 
 To Use Whites of Eggs. 
 
 Frosting for Cake. 
 
 White Cake. 
 
 Snow Cake. 
 
 Kisses or Meringues. [Pie. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake, Pudding and 
 
 Cream Beer. 
 
 Apple Snow. 
 
 Raspberry Trifle. 
 
 Nonsense. 
 
 Meringues for Puddings. 
 
 Filling for Charlotte llusse. 
 
 To Clear Coffee. 
 
 To Egg and Crumb. 
 
 Silver Cake. 
 
 English Muffins. 
 
 German Sauce. 
 
 Rich Pudding Sauce. 
 
 Aglaia Sauce. 
 
 Lemon, Orange or Peach Ice. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Chocolate Cake No. 2. 
 
 French Candies. 
 
 To Use 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. 
 To Egg and Crumb. 
 Boiled Custards. 
 Gold Cake. 
 
 Lemon Filling for Cake. 
 Cottage or Gold Pudding. 
 Cocoa or Chocolate. 
 White Soup. 
 
 Yolks of Eggs. 
 
 Oyster Boulette. 
 
 Sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 Wine Sauce No. 2. 
 
 Stuffed Peppers. 
 
 Ribbon Blanc Mange. 
 
 Rich Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 
 
 Gooseberry Fool. 
 
 Chocolate Frosting or Caramels. 
 
 To Use Milk. 
 
 Milk Toast. 
 
 Cracker Milk Toast. 
 
 Bread and Milk. 
 
 Popovers. 
 
 Potato or Lenten Soup. 
 
 Tomato Soup (No. 2). 
 
 Indian and Bread Puddings. 
 
 Griddle Cakes and Waffles. 
 
 Muffins. 
 
 Junket. 
 
 Ice Cream. 
 
 Spanish Fritters. 
 
Miscellaneous. 
 
 401 
 
 To Use Milk. (Continued.) 
 
 Stewed Oysters (or Soup). 
 
 Clam Soup. 
 
 Chowder. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Cocoa or Chocolate. 
 
 Cafe au lait. 
 
 Mont Blanc. 
 
 Custards and Blanc Manges. 
 
 Tapioca and Rice Puddings. 
 
 Delmonico Pudding. 
 
 Corn Pudding. 
 In Cooking Vegetables. 
 Omelet (Baked and Fried). 
 Cream to serve with Fruit Pies. 
 Fritters. 
 Succotash. 
 
 Pies. (Sweet Potato, Custard, 
 Cornstarch and Pumpkin.) 
 Macaroni (boiled or baked). 
 Thickened Milk. 
 
 To Use Sour Milk. 
 
 Corn Bread. 
 
 Sour Milk Graham Gems. 
 
 Griddle Cakes (various). 
 
 Shortcake. 
 
 Grandpa's Cake. 
 
 Huckleberry Cake. 
 
 Graham Pudding. 
 
 Popovers. 
 Apple Fritters. 
 Hasting's Pudding. 
 Doughnuts. 
 Cottage Cheese. 
 Cinnamon Cookies. 
 Cottage Pudding. 
 
 To Use Apples. 
 
 Baked Apples. 
 Apple Sauce. 
 Clarified Apples. 
 Apples Stewed Whole. 
 Apple Jelly. 
 Preserved Apples. 
 Transparent Preserve. 
 Pickled Apples. 
 Apple Snow. 
 Fried Apples. 
 Apple Pie. 
 In Mince Pies. 
 Brown Betty. 
 Apple Cottage Pudding. 
 Apple Short Cake. 
 
 Apple and Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Scotch Pudding. 
 
 Pan Dowdy. 
 
 Jellied Apples. 
 
 Marlborough Pudding. 
 
 Veal aux Pommes. 
 
 Apple Custard. 
 
 Hidden Hash. 
 
 Hidden Apples. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Apple Meringue. 
 
 Apple Filling for Cake. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 Birds' Nest Pudding. 
 
402 Afterthoughts. 
 
 AFTERTHOUGHTS. 
 
 Two or three remarks are here made, which were overlooked 
 in their proper connection. 
 
 Under TEA, attention should have been called to the fact that 
 almost every receipt given under Breakfast and Luncheon is 
 also suited to Tea. 
 
 Under COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES, the statement should 
 have been made that any receipt given for Cookies may be used 
 for Drop-Cakes, by simply putting in less flour (there should be 
 just enough for a spoon to stand alone in the dough) and drop- 
 ping from a teaspoon in heaps a little apart in a buttered pan. 
 This is, of course, much more quickly done than the rolling out 
 of cookies. 
 
 Under TO BAKE CAKE, it should have been mentioned that 
 if cake is liable to burn, a thick paper should be laid over the 
 top, or a pan of cold water set above it in the oven. 
 
 Under PUDDINGS, the reader should have been told how to 
 judge whether a pudding is done. When done, it will look dry 
 around the edges, and there will no longer be a sunken spot in 
 the middle. 
 
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 is important to study the " General Directions" and to 
 read carefully the "Remarks" at the beginning of every division 
 before trying these receipts. 
 
 A Cream to serve with 
 Fruit Pies .... 
 
 A French Receipt for Cro- 
 quettes 
 
 A hearty Egg Gruel . 
 
 A list of uses for Bread- 
 Crumbs 
 
 A list of uses for Pieces 
 of Bread .... 
 
 A plain Rice Pudding . 
 
 A pretty way to serve 
 Orange Ice . . . 
 
 A Rich Chowder . . . 
 
 A Rich Ice Cream . . 
 
 A simple way to serve 
 Lobster 
 
 A Summer Medley . . 
 
 A " Swell" Pudding . . 
 
 A tempting dish for Lun- 
 cheon 
 
 A very delicate Cracker 
 Pudding .... 
 
 A very delicate Egg Gruel 
 
 An appetizing Breakfast- 
 Dish 
 
 Aglaia Sauce .... 
 
 Albuminized Lemonade . 
 
 Albuminized Milk 
 
 PACK. 
 214 
 
 83 
 389 
 
 310 
 
 3Q9 
 227 
 
 281 
 130 
 278 
 
 140 
 204 
 227 
 
 78 
 
 233 
 
 388 
 
 29 
 249 
 387 
 380 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Alleghany Corn Muffins . 47 
 
 Almond Blanc-mange . . 265 
 Almond Cake . . . 333,334 
 
 Almonds to Blanch . . 13 
 
 Amber Pudding . . . 244 
 
 Anchovy Toast .... 65 
 
 Angel Cake 337 
 
 Anglo-Fran^ais Pie . . 224 
 Apple and Lemon Pre- 
 serve 364 
 
 Apple and Potato Stuffing 149 
 
 " Charlotte . . . 231 
 
 " Cottage Pudding . 229 
 
 " Custard .... 272 
 
 " Custard Pie . - . 219 
 
 " Dumplings . . 224, 247 
 
 " Filling for Cake . 321 
 
 " Floating Island . 272 
 
 " Fritters .... 96 
 
 " Jelly 374 
 
 " Meringue .... 230 
 
 " Pie 218 
 
 " Sauce . . . . . 355 
 
 " Shortcake .... 55 
 
 " Snow 277 
 
 " Tapioca Pudding, 
 
 (or other fruit) . . 226 
 
 Apples Baked . . . 356, 357 
 
 403 
 
404 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Apples Clarified .... 355 
 
 " Fried 37 
 
 Pickled .... 378 
 
 " Preserved . . . 366 
 
 " Stewed .... 355 
 
 " Stewed Whole . 356 
 
 " Ways to Use . . 401 
 Approximate Weights and 
 
 Measures, Table of . 8 
 
 Arrowroot Blanc-mange 268 
 
 Gruel ... 390 
 
 Ice . . . . 281 
 
 Asparagus, Boiled . . . 201 
 
 " Soup ... 110 
 
 Avoirdupois Weight ... 8 
 
 B. 
 Baked and Stewed Fruits 
 
 355 to 359 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings . 224 
 
 " Apples . . . 356, 357 
 
 " Beans .... 38 
 
 " Blue Fish ... 122 
 
 " Custard .... 274 
 
 " Eggs 21 
 
 " " alacreme. . 21 
 
 " Fish 120 
 
 " Graham Pudding . 241 
 
 " Halibut .... 122 
 
 " Hash 28 
 
 " " with Eggs . 29 
 
 " Haunch of Tension 169 
 
 " Hominy .... 70 
 
 " Macaroni .... 71 
 
 " Okra and Tomatoes 39 
 
 " Omelet 25 
 
 " Onions 194 
 
 41 Pears 357 
 
 " Potatoes .... 39 
 
 " Quinces .... 357 
 
 " Rice 7.0 
 
 Baked Sausages ... 
 
 " Sweet Potatoes . 
 
 " Tomatoes. .. 
 Baking Powder Biscuit 
 
 PAGE. 
 33 
 39 
 69 
 
 305 
 
 Banana Blanc-mange (or 
 
 other fruit) .... 259 
 
 Banana Ice Cream . . . 278 
 
 " Fritters. ... 96 
 
 Bannocks ...... 95 
 
 Barberry Jelly .... 374 
 
 Barley Sugar ..... 288 
 
 Barley Water ..... 389 
 
 Batter Balls (for Soup) . 103 
 
 Batter Pudding .... 236 
 
 Bavarian Cream (various 
 
 kinds) ..... 261 
 
 Bean and Tomato Soup . 112 
 
 Bean Soup (Navy Beans) 112 
 Beans (all kinds) . 202, 203 
 
 Bechamel Sauce .... 154 
 
 Beef a la mode .... 176 
 
 " Croquettes ... 87 
 
 " For the Sick ... 384 
 " In Various Ways 
 
 (For the Sick) . 385, 386 
 
 " Juice ..... 384 
 
 Loaf ..... 78 
 
 " Roast ..... 30 
 
 " Roll. ..... 173 
 
 Beef's Heart ..... 73 
 
 Beefsteak ...... 174 
 
 " and Onions . 174 
 
 " Pie .... 189 
 
 " Stuffed ... 175 
 " with Baked To- 
 
 matoes ..... 175 
 
 Beef Soup ..... 105 
 
 " Stew ..... 186 
 
 " Tea ...... 385 
 
 " Tea for Convalescents 385 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 405 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Beets 193 
 
 Bell Fritters 95 
 
 Berry Charlotte .... 231 
 
 Berry Ice Cream .... 279 
 
 Pie ...... 224 
 
 Best Way to Cook a Ham 183 
 
 Bird's Nest Pudding . . 229 
 
 Biscuit, Graham .... 303 
 
 " Maryland ... 306 
 
 " Unleavened . . 307 
 
 Bisque Ice Cream . . . 280 
 
 Black Bean Soup . . . Ill 
 
 Blackberries, Pickled . . 377 
 
 Blackberries, Preserved . 368 
 
 Blackberry Cordial ... 352 
 
 Blackberry Pie .... 224 
 
 Blackberry Wine ... 352 
 
 Blanched Almonds ... 13 
 Blanc-Manges . . 253 to 269 
 
 Blue Fish, Baked ... 124 
 
 Boil, How to .... 
 
 Boil in Lard, How to . . 9 
 
 Boiled Asparagus . . . 201 
 
 " Beets 183 
 
 44 Cabbage .... 196 
 
 " Cauliflower ... 197 
 
 " Chestnuts ... 399 
 
 " Chickens. ... 161 
 
 " Cod 119 
 
 " Corn 203 
 
 " Custard .... 271 
 
 " Eggs 18 
 
 " Fish 118 
 
 " Frosting .... 319 
 
 Graham Pudding . 246 
 
 " Halibut .... 119 
 
 " Ham 182 
 
 " Hominy ... 16, 17 
 
 " Indian Pudding . 245 
 
 " Lambs' Tongues . 33 
 
 Boiled Macaroni . 
 
 44 Mutton . 
 
 " Oatmeal . 
 
 " Onions . 
 
 " Parsnips . 
 
 " Pastry 
 
 " Potatoes . 
 
 " Puddings . 
 
 PAGE. 
 207 
 180 
 16 
 194 
 193 
 213 
 190 
 242 
 
 " to Warm 243 
 
 " Rice 206 
 
 " Salad Dressing 
 
 (Without Oil) ... 143 
 
 Boiled Salmon .... 120 
 
 " Salt Mackerel . . 37 
 44 Samp or Hominy 
 
 (coarse) 17 
 
 Boiled Spinach .... 200 
 
 " Tongue .... 177 
 
 44 Turkey .... 160 
 
 " Turnips .... 192 
 
 Boston Brown Bread . . 296 
 
 Boston Brown Bread 
 
 Toasted 311 
 
 Bouillon 104 
 
 Braid of Bread .... 299 
 Brandy Peaches . . 361, 362 
 
 Brandy Sauce .... 248 
 
 Bread 291 
 
 44 to Bake .... 294 
 44 and Butter Pud- 
 ding 233 
 
 44 Boiled in Molasses 309 
 44 Crumbs, List of 
 
 uses for 307 
 
 44 Dough Pie Crust . 212 
 
 44 Fritters 95 
 
 44 Griddle Cakes . . 59 
 44 made with Com- 
 pressed Yeast . . . 295 
 Bread made with Potatoes 295 
 
406 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 Bread made with Potato 
 
 or Baker's Yeast . . 296 
 Bread made with a 
 
 "Sponge" .... 294 
 Bread made Quickly (Miss 
 
 Corson's method) . . 296 
 
 Bread Panada .... 396 
 
 " Pate's 92 
 
 " Puddings . . 233, 234 
 
 " Sauce 153 
 
 Breakfast 15 
 
 " and Tea Cakes 
 
 45 to 56 
 
 " Bacon ... 32 
 
 Cake .... 53 
 
 " Turnovers . . 31 
 
 Breast of Veal, Stewed . 178 
 
 Bridget's Pie-crust . . 212 
 
 Broil, How to .... 12 
 
 Broiled Chicken ... 164 
 
 Fish 124 
 
 " Oysters .... 135 
 
 " Potatoes ... 41 
 
 Quail .... 168 
 
 Salt Mackerel . 37 
 
 Shad 124 
 
 Broiled Sweet-breads . 179 
 
 Brown Betty 231 
 
 " Bread 298 
 
 Browned Flour .... 149 
 
 Hash .... 28 
 
 " Potatoes ... 192 
 
 Brunswick Stew ... 188 
 
 Buckeye Buckwheat Cakes 58 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes with 
 
 water 67 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes, Un- 
 equalled 57 
 
 Buns 303 
 
 Burnt Almonds .... 286 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Burnt Sugar (for soup) . 102 
 Burnt Sugar Flavoring . 253 
 
 Butter Beans 202 
 
 Buttered Parsnips . . . 194 
 Buttermilk Griddle Cakes 59 
 " Muffins . . 46 
 C. 
 
 Cabbage 43, 196 
 
 Pickled . . . 379, 380 
 Salad .... 72 
 
 CafeauLait 350 
 
 Cake 316 to 348 
 
 " Almond . . 333, 334 
 " Angel .... 337 
 " Charlotte Russe . 326 
 " Chocolate . 323, 324 
 " Chodwell ... 335 
 " Citron .... 333 
 " Cocoanut ... 325 
 
 " Coffee 335 
 
 " Cream .... 329 
 
 " Cup 327 
 
 " Delicate .... 329 
 " Feather .... 328 
 " Fruit or Wedding 334 
 
 " Gold 332 
 
 " Grandpa's ... 330 
 " Huckleberry . . 331 
 " Jelly . 322, 323, 326 
 " Layer . . 322 to 326 
 *' Lemon Layer . . 325 
 " Lemon Loaf . . 333 
 " Lincoln .... 327 
 
 " Marble 331 
 
 " Marble Layer . . 326 
 " 1, 2, 3, 4 .... 327 
 " Orange . . 324, 325 
 " Pound .... 330 
 " Sandusky ... 330 
 " Silver . 332 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 407 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Cake, Snow 328 
 
 " Spice 329 
 
 " Sponge . . 336 to 337 
 
 " Variety .... 325 
 
 " Washington. . . 332 
 
 " White 328 
 
 Cake, White Mountain . 323 
 
 Calcutta Curry .... 185 
 
 Calf's Liver 180 
 
 Calf's or Beef's Heart . . 73 
 
 Can, To 371 
 
 Canadian Gingerbread . . 339 
 
 Candied Fruits .... 360 
 
 Candy 281 to 288 
 
 " Barley sugar . . 288 
 
 " Burnt Almonds . 286 
 " Caramels, Choco- 
 late . 282, 283, 399 
 " Caramels, Maple 
 
 Sugar 283 
 
 Candy Cream 285 
 
 " " Chocolate . 281 
 " French (without 
 
 boiling) 284 
 
 Candy Fruit 285 
 
 " Jelly Drops ... 283 
 
 " Molasses .... 287 
 
 " Peanut 287 
 
 " Sugar 288 
 
 " " Taffy with 
 
 nuts 287 
 
 Candy Taffy 287 
 
 " Vinegar .... 288 
 
 Canned Salmon, Baked . 36 
 
 " " on Toast 35 
 
 " " Pincfi of 36 
 
 Canned String Beans . . 373 
 
 * Tomatoes . . . 372 
 
 Cape Cod Chowder. . . 130 
 
 Caper or Pickle Sauce . . 151 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Caramel Custard .... 275 
 Caramel Ice Cream . . . 280 
 
 Caramel Loaf 238 
 
 Caramels . . . 282, 283, 399 
 
 Carrots Stewed .... 197 
 
 Casserole of Fish ... 127 
 
 Rice and Meat . 76 
 
 Catsups 375 
 
 Caudle 391 
 
 Cauliflower 197 
 
 Celery, Stewed .... 200 
 
 Cereals 16 
 
 Charlotte Russe . . 269, 270 
 
 " Cake . . 326 
 
 " " Pudding 271 
 
 Cheap Sponge Cake . . 337 
 
 Cheaper Sauce for Poached 
 
 Eggs 19 
 
 Cheese Fondue .... 66 
 Cherries for a Cold ... 395 
 Cherry Bounce .... 353 
 
 Cherry Pie 223 
 
 Cherry Pudding .... 231 
 Chestnut Stuffing ... 149 
 Chestnuts, Boiled ... 399 
 Chicken-a n d-C o r n P u d- 
 
 ing . . .. ,. ;. . . 77 
 
 Chicken Baked in Rice . 77 
 
 Boiled .... 161 
 
 " Broiled .... 164 
 
 " Broth .... 107 
 
 " Croquettes . . 84, 85 
 
 Devilled ... 75 
 
 " Fricasseed . . 161, 162 
 
 " Fried . . . 162, 163 
 
 " Panada .... 395 
 
 " Pat6s (or Veal) . 93 
 
 Pie 189 
 
 Pot-pie (or Veal) 190 
 " Pressed . 81 
 
408 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Chicken Roast . ' . . 1(51 
 Salad .... 144 
 " Smothered. . . 163 
 " Soup (or Turkey) 
 
 107, 108 
 
 " Tea 392 
 
 " Warmed-over (or 
 
 Turkey) 34 
 
 Children's Cookies ... 343 
 
 Chili Sauce 377 
 
 Chocolate ...... 351 
 
 with Whipped 
 
 Cream 351 
 
 Chocolate Bavarian Cream 261 
 Cake . . . 323, 324 
 " Caramels 282, 
 
 283, 399 
 
 " Cornstarch 
 
 Blanc-mange . . . 268 
 
 Chocolate Custard Pudding 275 
 
 Floating Island 272 
 
 " Frosting . 320, 399 
 
 Gelatine Blanc- 
 mange 264 
 
 Chocolate Ice Cream . . 279 
 ChodwellCake .... 335 
 
 Chowder 130, 131 
 
 Christmas Charlotte Russe 270 
 
 Cider Jelly 254 
 
 " To Bottle .... 397 
 
 Cinnamon Cookies . . . 341 
 
 " Fingers ... 225 
 
 Citron Cake 333 
 
 " Preserves .... 363 
 
 Clam Broth 132 
 
 " Chowder .... 131 
 " Fritters . . , . 98 
 
 " Pie 132 
 
 " Soup 116 
 
 Clams . . . . 98, 131, 132 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Clams, To Open . .V , . 131 
 
 Claret Jelly 254 
 
 Claret Syrups .... 102 
 
 Clarified Apples .... 355 
 
 Cocoa 352 
 
 Cocoanut Cake .... 325 
 
 Custard Pudding 275 
 
 " Drop Cakes . . 346 
 
 " Filling for Cake 322 
 
 " Frosting ... 320 
 
 " Pie 222 
 
 Pudding ... 275 
 
 Cod, Boiled 119 
 
 Codfish Balls 89 
 
 Puff 36 
 
 Coffee 349,350 
 
 " with Egg .... 393 
 
 " Cake 335 
 
 " Cream 259 
 
 " Harmless .... 350 
 
 " Ice Cream. . . . 279 
 
 " Jelly ..... 258 
 
 Cold Catsup 376 
 
 " Fish Ways to Use . 131 
 
 " Meat Stew .... 34 
 
 " Potatoes, To Use . . 208 
 
 " Rice, " . . 208 
 
 " Slaw 72 
 
 " Tomatoes, To Use . 208 
 
 Compound Barley Water . 389 
 
 Concord Tea Rolls . . . 301 
 
 Confederate Pies . . . 217 
 
 Convent Eggs .... 25 
 
 Cooked Tomatoes, To Use 208 
 Cookies and Small Cakes 
 
 340 to 348 
 
 Corn Boiled 203 
 
 " Bread . . . . 49 to 50 
 
 " Fritters 98 
 
 " Muffins . 47 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 409 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Corn Oysters 97 
 
 " Pudding 70 
 
 " Soup 110 
 
 " Stewed 203 
 
 Corned Beef 177 
 
 " Pressed . . 79 
 
 Cornmeal Gruel .... 390 
 
 " Hasty Pudding . 17 
 
 Constarch Blanc-mange . 267 
 
 Custard, Boiled 271 
 
 " Pie 220 
 
 Cottage Cheese .... 398 
 Cottage Puddings . .239, 240 
 
 Crabapple Jelly .... 374 
 
 Crab, Devilled .... 141 
 
 Crab Croquettes . . . 88 
 
 Crackers 307 
 
 Cracker Milk Toast. . . 312 
 
 Cracker Panada .... 396 
 
 " Pudding ... 233 
 
 " Stuffing .... 148 
 
 Cranberry Pie .... 216 
 
 Sauce. ... 157 
 
 Cream Batter Pudding . 236 
 
 " Beer ..... 354 
 
 " Cake 829 
 
 " Candy 285 
 
 " Chocolates . . . 281 
 
 " Corn Bread ... 49 
 
 41 Meringues . . . 346 
 
 " Omelet 24 
 
 " Pie 220, 221 
 
 " (in a Loaf) . . 238 
 
 " Puffs 236 
 
 " Sauce (for Meats) . 154 
 
 " Tea Cake .... 52 
 
 " Toast 312 
 
 " To Raise Quickly . 399 
 " To Serve with Fruit 
 
 Pies 214 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Creamy Sauce .... 248 
 Croquettes, Meat Balls, 
 
 etc 82 to 91 
 
 Croquettes, Beef .... 87 
 Chicken . 84, 85 
 
 " Phila- 
 delphia 85 
 
 Croquettes, Fish .... 88 
 " French Receipt 
 
 for 83 
 
 Croquettes, Hap-hazard . 87 
 Lamb ... 86 
 Lobster or Crab 88 
 Oyster ... 88 
 Potato ... 90 
 " Rice .... 90 
 Veal .... 84 
 " Tension or Mut- 
 ton. ... 86 
 
 Croutons 103 
 
 Crullers 348 
 
 Crust for Meat Pies - . . 213 
 
 Cucumber Catsups . . . 375 
 
 Cucumbers, Fried ... 43 
 Pickled 378, 
 
 379, 380, 381 
 
 " Raw ... 42 
 
 Stewed . . 205 
 
 Cup Cake 327 
 
 Cup Custard 274 
 
 Currant Biscuit .... 306 
 
 Jelly 374 
 
 " Sauce . . 151 
 
 " Preserves . . . 308 
 
 " Shortcake ... 65 
 
 To Wash ... 13 
 
 Currant Wine 353 
 
 Curried Chicken .... 164 
 
 " Eggs-and-Toast . 26 
 
 " Oysters .... 138 
 
410 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Curried Pilau 186 
 
 Curry Sauce 153 
 
 Custards . . . . 271 to 275 
 
 Custard Pie 219 
 
 " Sauce .... 250 
 
 D. 
 
 Delicacies for Dessert . . 252 
 
 Delicate Baked Apples . . 357 
 
 Cake 329 
 
 Shad 124 
 
 Delmonico Pudding . . 274, 275 
 
 Dessert Puffs or Vanities . 236 
 
 Desserts 209 
 
 " Prepared Quickly 289 
 
 Without Milk. . 289 
 
 Devilled Chicken ... 75 
 
 Crab .... 141 
 
 Eggs .... 26 
 
 Ham 75 
 
 " Lobster or Crab . 141 
 
 Oysters ... 138 
 
 " Tomatoes ... 68 
 
 Dimples. 346 
 
 Dinner 100 
 
 Dipped Toast 311 
 
 Dolmathes 73, 74 
 
 Dough Dumplings . . . 247 
 
 " Fritters .... 95 
 
 Doughnuts 347 
 
 Drawn Butter .... 150 
 
 Dried Apple Pie . . . . 218 
 
 " Apples Stewed . . 355 
 
 " Beans 203 
 
 " Flour Gruel ... 393 
 
 " Peaches, Stewed . 355 
 
 " Peach Pie . . . . 218 
 
 Drinks 348 
 
 Dropped Eggs .... 19 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Dry Measure 8 
 
 Dry Toast 310 
 
 Ducks 164 
 
 Dumplings for Meat . . 247 
 
 Dundee Pudding. . . . 245 
 
 Dutch Cucumbers . . . 381 
 
 B. 
 
 Eels 131 
 
 Egg-and-Crumb, How to . 12 
 " Gruel .... 388, 389 
 " Lemonade . . . .393 
 
 " Nogg 393 
 
 " Plant .... 71, 205 
 " Poached in,Broth . . 394 
 " Sandwiches .... 394 
 " Sauce 151 
 
 Eggs 18 
 
 " Baked 21 
 
 " A la creme .... 21 
 
 " Boiled .... V. . 18 
 
 " Convent . .... . 25 
 
 " Curried Eggs and 
 
 Toast 26 
 
 " Devilled 26 
 
 " Escaloped Eggs and 
 
 Meat . . . . 21, 22 
 
 " Fried 20 
 
 " Ham and Eggs ... 20 
 " Omelet, Baked ... 25 
 IC " Cream. . . 24 
 " " French . . 24 
 " " Fried ... 23 
 Ham ... 23 
 " " Tomato . . 24 
 " Poached or Dropped . 19 
 
 " In Oil 20 
 
 " With Sauce .... 19 
 " Scrambled ... 22 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 411 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 .... 394 
 " Stirred Eggs with 
 
 Gravy ...... 25 
 
 " Stuffed 26 
 
 " To Preserve for 
 
 Winter use ... 396, 397 
 
 English Chestney ... 377 
 
 " Muffins 46 
 
 11 Pancakes .... 61 
 
 " Plum Pudding . . 244 
 
 Escaloped Claras . . . 132 
 
 " Eggs and Meat 21, 22 
 
 Fish . . . 126, 127 
 
 " Oysters . . . 136 
 
 " Potatoes ... 68 
 
 " Tomatoes . . 44 
 
 Explanatory Notes ... 7 
 
 P. 
 
 Fancy Frosting .... 320 
 
 Fat or Suet, to try out . . 11 
 
 Feather Cake 328 
 
 Fig Pudding 24G 
 
 Filling for Cake . . 320 to 322 
 
 Fish 35, 117 
 
 " a 1'Italicnne . . . 129 
 
 " Au Court Bouillon . 120 
 
 " Baked 120 
 
 " Balls 89 
 
 " Chowder .... 130 
 
 " Croquettes .... 88 
 
 " Escaloped .... 126 
 
 " Fried 123 
 
 " Pat6s 93 
 
 " Potted 128 
 
 " Salad 145 
 
 " Spiced 128 
 
 " Steaks Fried ... 123 
 
 ' Stewed . 129 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Fish, to Boil 118 
 
 " To Broil .... 124 
 
 " To Pickle. ... 128 
 
 " To use Cold Fish 131 
 
 Flaked Potato .... 191 
 
 Flannel Cakes .... 61 
 
 Flavorings for Custards, etc. 
 
 253 
 
 FlaxseedTea 892 
 
 Floating Island . ... 272 
 
 Flour Gruel 390 
 
 14 To Thicken With . . 11 
 Food for a Delicate Infant 391 
 For the Sick . . . 383 to 396 
 Force-meat Balls for Soup 103 
 Francatelli Pudding . . 234 
 French Candies, without boiling 
 284 
 
 " Omelet 24 
 
 " Receipt for Croquettes 83 
 Fricasseed Chicken . . 161, 162 
 
 " Oysters 137 
 
 " Rabbits 171 
 
 Fried Apples* 37 
 
 " Cabbage .... 43 
 " Chickens . . . 162, 163 
 " Cucumbers ... 43 
 
 " Eels 131 
 
 " Egg-plant .... 205 
 
 " Eggs 18 
 
 " Fish 123 
 
 " Ham ..... . . 32 
 
 " Hasty Pudding or 
 
 Mush- 18 
 
 " Hominy 18 
 
 " Oatmeal 18 
 
 " Omelet 23 
 
 " Onions .... 43, 195 
 " Oysters .... 134, 135 
 " Parsnips .... 194 
 
412 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Fried Potatoes .... 40 
 
 " llabbit 171 
 
 " Salsify 199 
 
 Shad 125 
 
 " Squash 196 
 
 " Sweet-breads . . . 179 
 
 " Sweet Potatoes . . 41 
 
 " Tomatoes ... 44, 68 
 
 Fritters, . . . . . 93 to 98 
 
 " Apple .... 96 
 
 " Apple, Orange or 
 
 Banana 96 
 
 Fritters, Bell 95 
 
 " Bread .... 95 
 
 " Clam .... 98 
 
 Corn .... 98 
 
 " Dough .... 95 
 
 " Oyster .... 98 
 
 " Plain .... 94 
 
 Potato .... 96 
 
 Rice ..... 97 
 
 " Salsify. ... 198 
 
 " Snow .... 94 
 
 11 Squash or Pea . 97 
 
 Frizzled Beef 35 
 
 Frogs 74 
 
 Frosting . . . . 318 to 320 
 
 To Color ... 319 
 
 Frozen Custard .... 278 
 
 Fruit Cake (or Wedding) 334 
 
 " Candy 285 
 
 " Tees 280 
 
 -" Jelly 258 
 
 " Shortcake .... 55 
 
 Fry, How to 10 
 
 G. 
 
 Game and Poultry 
 Gelatine Frosting 
 
 157 
 319 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 General Directions ... 9 
 Gen. Washington's Break- 
 fast Cake 53 
 
 German Blanc-mange . . 268 
 
 " Potatoes ... 68 
 
 Puflfs 237 
 
 " Sauce .... 252 
 
 Giblet Gravy 150 
 
 Gingerbread . . . .338, 339 
 
 Pudding . . 240 
 
 Ginger Snaps 343 
 
 Glazed Ham 183 
 
 Gold Cake 332 
 
 Gold-and-Silver Jelly Cake 322 
 
 Gold Pudding 240 
 
 Gooseberry Fool .... 276 
 
 Goose, Roast 1G5 
 
 Graham Biscuit ... 47, 303 
 
 " Bread .... 297 
 
 " Cookies. ... 342 
 
 Gems .... 48 
 
 " Griddle Cakes . 59 
 
 ' Gruel .... 387 
 
 " Hasty Pudding . 17 
 
 Pudding . .241,246 
 
 Grandpa's Cake .... 330 
 
 Granuin Gruel .... 395 
 
 Grape Jam 369 
 
 " Jelly 373 
 
 " Wine 353 
 
 Gravy for Broiled Chickens 
 
 orPatridges. . . . 150 
 
 Gravy for Roast Meat . . 150 
 
 " To Make .... 149 
 
 Green Currant Pie . . . 223 
 
 " Gooseberry Pie . . 223 
 
 " Pea Soup .... 115 
 
 " Tomato Preserves . 365 
 
 Greens (Various Kinds) . 200 
 
 Griddle Cakes, etc. . 56 to 60 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 413 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Grouse 166, 167 
 
 Gruels 387 to 31)3 
 
 Gumbo Soup Ill 
 
 H. 
 
 Halibut 119, 122 
 
 Hani and Eggs .... 20 
 
 " and Macaroni ... 39 
 
 " Best Way to Cook . 183 
 
 " Boiled 182 
 
 " Devilled 75 
 
 " Fried 32 
 
 " Glazed 183 
 
 " Omelet 24 
 
 " Salad 145 
 
 Hap-Hazard Croquettes . 87 
 
 Hard Sauce 248 
 
 Harmless Coffee .... 350 
 
 Hash 28, 29, 31 
 
 Hash, Baked with Eggs . 29 
 
 Hasting's Pudding ... 243 
 Hasty Pudding or Mush 17, 18 
 
 Haunch of Vension, Baked 169 
 
 Head Cheese 80 
 
 Hcirt, Calf's or Beef's . 73 
 
 Hidden Apples .... 228 
 
 Hidden Hash 31 
 
 Hints on Giving Milk . . 386 
 
 Hominy 16, 17, 18 
 
 Hominy Bread .... 61 
 
 Hominy Griddle Cakes. . 60 
 
 " Muffins .... 47 
 
 Honeycomb Pudding . . 241 
 
 Hot Slaw 72 
 
 How to Boil 9 
 
 " " " in Lard . . 9 
 
 " " Broil 12 
 
 i Egg-and-Crumb . 12 
 
 " " Fry 10 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 How to Parboil .... 9 
 
 " " Try out Fat or Suet 11 
 
 Huckleberry Cake . . . 331 
 
 " Pudding . . 245 
 
 Tea Cake. 62 
 
 I. 
 
 Ice Cream and Ices 228 to 281 
 
 Iced Tea 349 
 
 Imitation Hen's Nest . . 264 
 Pate de Voie Gras 75 
 Imperial Cream .... 277 
 Indian Pudding . . . 235, 245 
 Irish Moss Lemonade . . 392 
 
 Irish Stew 187 
 
 Isinglass Frosting . . . 319 
 Italian Cream 262 
 
 J. 
 
 Jam (any Kind of Fruit) . 371 
 
 Jam, Grape 369 
 
 Japanese Cream .... 397 
 
 Jellied Apples 356 
 
 " Veal 80 
 
 Jelly Cake . . . 322, 323, 326 
 
 " " Without Eggs . 322 
 
 " Drops 283 
 
 " Floating Island . . 272 
 
 " Sauce 250 
 
 " To Make . . . 373,375 
 
 " with Bananas ... 258 
 
 Johnny Cake 50 
 
 Jumbles 344 
 
 Junket 265 
 
 Kentucky Potatoes ... 68 
 Kidneys, Stewed ... 33 
 
414 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Kisses or Meringues . . 346 
 Knuckle of Veal Stew . . 184 
 Koumiss 387 
 
 L. 
 
 Lafayette Gingerbread . 339 
 Lamb Broth ..... 107 
 
 " Chops 181 
 
 " Croquettes ... 86 
 
 " Roast 180 
 
 " Stuffing for . . 147, 148 
 
 Lamb's Hearts .... 33 
 
 " Tongues. . 33,72,73 
 
 Layer Cakes . . .322 to 326 
 
 Lemonade . . . 387, 392, 393 
 
 Lemon Custard .... 273 
 
 " Filling for Cake 320, 321 
 
 " Ice 280 
 
 " Jelly 256 
 
 " Layer Cake . . . 325 
 " Loaf Cake ... 333 
 
 " Pie 221 
 
 " Pudding .... 232 
 
 " Sauce 249 
 
 " Toast 313 
 
 Lenten Soup . . . .114, 115 
 
 Lettuce Salad 147 
 
 Light Dough Dumplings . 247 
 
 Lima Beans 202 
 
 Lincoln Cake 327 
 
 Liquid Measure .... 8 
 
 " Sauce 248 
 
 List of uses for Bread 
 
 Crumbs 310 
 
 List of uses for Pieces of 
 
 Bread 309 
 
 Liver 180 
 
 Lobster, A Simple Way . 140 
 Lobster, Devilled . . . 141 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Lobster or Crab Cro- 
 quettes .... 88 
 " Salad .... 146 
 Sauce . . 155, 156 
 Lobsters, to open . . . 140 
 Lottie's Cream Tea Cake . 52 
 
 Love Pudding 236 
 
 Luncheon 64 
 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. . . 40 
 
 M. 
 
 Macaroons 346 
 
 Macaroni, Baked ... 71 
 
 Boiled ... 207 
 
 Milan .... 207 
 
 " with Ham . . 39 
 
 " Oysters . 39 
 
 " " Tomato 
 
 Sauce 71 
 
 Mackerel 126 
 
 Maitre d'Hotel Potato . . 67 
 
 " " " Sauce . . 157 
 
 Manchester Pudding . . 246 
 
 Maple Sugar Caramels. . 283 
 
 Marble Cake 331 
 
 " Layer Cake ... 326 
 
 Marlboro' Pie 219 
 
 " Pudding ... 230 
 Marmalade . . 369, 370, 371 
 
 Maryland Biscuit. ... 306 
 
 Mashed Potato .... 191 
 Mayonnaise Dressing 142, 143 
 
 Meat and Kice Croquettes. 86 
 
 " Balls 87 
 
 " Paste 395 
 
 " Pies 188 
 
 " To Boil 173 
 
 " To Roast .... 172 
 
 Meat Warmed in Slices . 34: 
 
Alphabetical Index,. 
 
 415 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Meats .... 27, 72, 78, 171 
 
 Medley Marmalade . . . 371 
 Menu for Convalescents, 
 
 383, 384 
 
 Meringue, To make a . . 13 
 
 Meringues or Kisses . . 34G 
 
 Milan Macaroni .... 207 
 
 Milk, Thickened .... 390 
 
 " Toast 311 
 
 " To Use . . . 400, 401 
 
 Mille Fruit Cream . . . 2GO 
 
 Millville Shortcake ... 54 
 
 Mince Meat 215 
 
 " Pies 214 
 
 Minced Hash 28 
 
 Mint Sauce 155 
 
 Miroton 34 
 
 Miscellaneous .... 39G 
 
 Dishes for 
 
 Breakfast . . 37 
 Miscellaneous Dishes for 
 
 Luncheon .... 72 
 
 Mississippi Kiver Steam- 
 boat stuffing for Fish 121 
 Mock Bisque Soup . . . Ill 
 " Chicken Salad . . 145 
 " Doughnuts ... 95 
 " Duck ...... 175 
 
 " Mince Meat . . . 21G 
 
 " Oysters .... 198 
 
 " Squab Pie . . . . 190 
 
 " Turtle Soup ... 104 
 
 Molasses Candy .... 287 
 
 44 or Spice Cookies 343 
 
 '* Sauce .... 249 
 
 Mont Blanc 259 
 
 Mousaka ...... 74 
 
 Mrs. Gen. Lee's Boiled 
 
 Pastry 213 
 
 Muffins . 45 to 47 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Mulled Jelly 393 
 
 Mush 17 
 
 Mustard Pickle .... 381 
 
 " Prepared ... 157 
 
 Mutton a la Venison. . . 76 
 
 Boiled .... 180 
 
 " Broth (or Lamb). 107 
 
 " Chops (or Lamb). 181 
 
 " Croquettes ... 86 
 
 Cutlets .... 181 
 
 " Roast 180 
 
 Stew 1C6 
 
 N. 
 
 Nasturtium Seed, Pickled. 377 
 Neck or Shoulder of Veni- 
 son 170 
 
 New Year's Cakes ... 345 
 
 Nonpariel Rusk .... 304 
 
 Nonsense 277 
 
 Noodle Soup 106 
 
 North Carolina Boiled Cab- 
 bage ...... 196 
 
 North Carolina Corn Muf- 
 fins 47 
 
 Nutmeg Cookies .... 342 
 
 o. 
 
 Oatmeal Cordial .... 388 
 
 " Griddle Cakes . . 58 
 
 Gruel . ....<. 388 
 
 Ohio Cakes 344 
 
 Okra 205 
 
 14 and Tomatoes. . . 206 
 
 " or Gumbo Soup . . Ill 
 
 Old-fashioned Apple Pic . 218 
 
 " Frosting . 818 
 
 44 Sponge Cake 336 
 
416 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 Omelets .... 23 to 25 
 
 1, 2, 3, 4 Cake 327 
 
 Onion Stuffing for Fish . 121 
 
 Orange Baskets with Jelly 255 
 
 " Cake .... 324, 325 
 
 " Custard .... 273 
 
 " Filling for Cake . 321 
 
 " Tool 276 
 
 " Fritters .... 96 
 " Frosting .... 320 
 " Ice (or Lemon) 280, 281 
 
 " Jelly 255 
 
 " Marmalade . . . 369 
 
 " Pie 221 
 
 " Preserve ... 368 
 " Pudding .... 276 
 
 " Snow 257 
 
 Oyster Boulette .... 138 
 " Croquettes ... 88 
 " Fritters .... 98 
 
 " Pates 92 
 
 Pie 140 
 
 " Plant . . . 198, 199 
 
 " Sauce 156 
 
 " Soup 116 
 
 " Stuffing .... 148 
 
 Oysters 132 to 140 
 
 " alapreme ... 137 
 " a la Royale ... 139 
 " Broiled . . . . 135 
 " Escaloped . . . 136 
 " Fricasseed . . . 137 
 " Fried . . . 134, 135 
 " Panned .... 139 
 " Pickled .... 137 
 " Raw . ". . . . 132 
 
 " Roast 136 
 
 " Smothered ... 139 
 " Steamed .... 135 
 " Stewed . . . 133, 134 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 P. 
 
 Pancakes 61 
 
 Pan Dowdy 229 
 
 Panned Oysters .... 139 
 
 Paradise Pudding . . . 244 
 
 Parboil, how to .... 9 
 
 Parker House Rolls . . 300 
 
 Parsnip Cakes Fried . . 194 
 
 Parsnips .... 193, 194 
 
 Partridges .... 167, 168 
 
 Pate's 91 
 
 Peach Charlotte .... 231 
 
 " Ice 281 
 
 " Ice Cream. . . . 278 
 
 " Preserves. . . . 362 
 
 " ShortCake ... 56 
 
 Peanut Candy 287 
 
 Pea Fritters 97 
 
 Pear and Quince Marma- 
 lade 370 
 
 Pears Preserved .... 366 
 
 " Baked 357 
 
 " Pickled 378 
 
 " Stewed 358 
 
 Peas 201 
 
 Peppers, Stuffed .... 199 
 
 Perch 126 
 
 Philadelphia Chicken Cro- 
 quettes 85 
 
 Picalily 382 
 
 Pickle Sauce 151 
 
 " to cure Hams . . 398 
 
 Pickled Apples .... 378 
 
 " Blackberries . . 377 
 
 " Cabbage . . 379, 380 
 
 " Cucumbers . 378 to 381 
 
 " Fish 128 
 
 " Lambs' Tongues . 73 
 
 " Nasturtium Seed , 377 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 417 
 
 PAGE. 
 Pickled Oysters .... 137 
 
 " Pears 378 
 
 " Watermelon Kind. 379 
 
 Piekles 377 to 382 
 
 " without Boiling . 382 
 
 Pie Crust . . . . 209 to 214 
 
 44 " to Glaze ... 214 
 
 Pies 209 to 225 
 
 " Anglo Francais. . . 224 
 
 44 Apple 218 
 
 " Apple Custard . . . 219 
 
 " Berry 224 
 
 " Blackberry .... 224 
 
 44 Cherry 223 
 
 " Cocoanut .... 222 
 4 Confederate . . . 217 
 " Cornstarch .... 220 
 " Cranberry . . . . 21G 
 44 Cream . . . 220, 221 
 
 14 Currant 223 
 
 44 Custard 219 
 
 44 Dried Apple or Peach 218 
 ' 4 Green Gooseberry. . 223 
 " Lemon or Orange . . 221 
 44 Maryborough . . . 219 
 
 44 Mince 214 
 
 44 Pumpkin 217 
 
 44 Squash . ." . . 217,218 
 44 Sweet Potato Custard 220 
 44 Sweet Potato ... 216 
 
 Pigeon Pie 189 
 
 Pigeons .... 1G5, 1G8, 189 
 Pigs in Blankets .... 139 
 
 Pilau 185 
 
 Pinc6 of Canned Salmon . 36 
 
 Pineapple Ice Cream . . 279 
 
 44 Preserves . . 365 
 
 44 Pudding ... 232 
 
 Plain Bread Pudding . . 234 
 
 44 Breakfast Cake . 63 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Plain Fritters 94 
 
 4 Graham Bread . . 297 
 
 4 Huckleberry Tea Cake 53 
 
 4 Jelly Cake .... 322 
 
 4 Muffins 45 
 
 4 Pie Crust .... 212 
 
 14 Ilice Pudding ... 227 
 
 Plum Preserves .... 366 
 Plum Pudding . . . 243, 244 
 Poached Eggs ... 19, 20 
 
 Poor Man's Pudding . . 227 
 
 Popovers 51 
 
 Pork 181, 182 
 
 Pork Steaks or Chops . . 182 
 
 Potage a la Keine . . . 109 
 
 Potato Balls 90 
 
 " Biscuit .... 302 
 
 44 Croquettes ... 90 
 
 44 Crust 213 
 
 44 Flaked .... 191 
 
 44 Fritters .... 96 
 
 44 Mattre d'Hotel . . 67 
 
 44 Mashed .... 191 
 
 44 Pears 90 
 
 44 Puff 42 
 
 44 Rechaufle ... 42 
 
 44 Salad 146 
 
 44 Snow 42 
 
 44 Soup (or Lenten) 114, 115 
 
 44 Yeast (Raw) . . 315 
 
 Potatoes and Cream . . 42 
 
 Baked .... 39 
 
 Boiled .... 190 
 
 Broiled. ... 41 
 
 44 Browned . . . 192 
 
 Cold, To Use. . 208 
 
 Fried .... 40 
 
 " German . . 68 
 
 44 Kentucky or Es- 
 
 caloped 68 
 
418 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Potatoes Lyonnaise . . 40 
 
 " Saratoga ... 66 
 
 " Stewed with Gravy 41 
 
 " Milk 41 
 
 " Stuffed .... 40 
 " with Giblets . . 67 
 
 Potted Fish 128 
 
 Potted Patridges ... 167 
 
 Poultry, etc 157 
 
 " To Clean or Draw 158 
 
 " To Keep ... 159 
 
 To Prepare . . 158 
 
 To Select ... 157 
 
 " To Stuff and Truss 159 
 
 " To Wash ... 159 
 
 Hash .... 28 
 
 Pound Cake 330 
 
 Prairie Chicken . . . 166, 167 
 
 Prepared Mustard . . . 157 
 
 Preserved Apples ... 366 
 
 " Blackberries . 368 
 
 " Citron ... 363 
 
 " Currants. . . 368 
 
 ' Oranges . . . 368 
 
 Peaches . . .362 
 
 " Pears .... 366 
 
 " Pineapple . . 365 
 
 " Plums ... 366 
 
 " Quinces . . . 367 
 
 " Tomatoes . 364, 365 
 
 " Watermelon 
 
 Hind 363 
 
 Preserves 359 
 
 Pressed Chicken .... 81 
 
 " Corned Beef . . 79 
 
 Meats . . .78 to 82 
 
 Prince of Wales' Pudding 240 
 
 Prunes, Stewed .... 358 
 
 Puddings .... 226 to 247 
 
 Pudding, Amber .... 244 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Pudding, Apple Cottage . 229 
 " ** Meringue 230 
 
 " " Tapioca, 
 
 (or other Fruit) . . 226 
 " Batter or Love . 236 
 " Berry or Peach 
 
 Charlotte .... 231 
 " Bird's Nest . . 229 
 " Bread and Butter 233 
 
 Bread 233, 234, 235 
 " Brown Betty . 231 
 " Charlotte Russe 271 
 ". Cherry. ... 231 
 * ' Chocolate Custard 275 
 " Cocoanut . . . 275 
 " Cocoanut Custard 275 
 " Cold Corn Bread 240 
 " Cottage . .239,240 
 " Cracker ... 233 
 " Cream Batter . 236 
 " Delmonico . . 274 
 
 Dundee ... 245 
 
 " Fig 246 
 
 " Francatelli . . 234 
 " Gingerbread. . 240 
 " Graham . . 241, 246 
 " Hastings or Suet 243 
 " Hidden Apples or 
 
 Rice Rock .... 228 
 " Honeycomb . .241 
 
 Huckleberry. . 245 
 " Indian . . . 235, 245 
 " Lemon. . . . 232 
 " Manchester . . 246 
 " Marlborough . 230 
 " Orange . . . 276 
 " Pan Dowdy . . 229 
 
 Paradise ... 244 
 " Pineapple . . 232 
 
 Plum . . .243,244 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 419 
 
 PACK 
 Pudding, Prince of Wales 240 
 " Pumpkin . . . 233 
 
 Raised Waffles . . . . 
 Raisin Gruel 
 
 PACK. 
 62 
 390 
 
 " Rhubarb or Apple 
 Charlotte . .231 
 Rice . . . 227, 228 
 Rice Custard . 228 
 Rolled .... 246 
 Scotch. ... 229 
 " Sweet Potato . 232 
 Swell .... 227 
 " Tapioca or Sago 226 
 " Victoria ... 244 
 
 Raisius, Stewed ... . 
 " To Stone . . . 
 Rarnakin Toast .... 
 Raspberry Floating Island 
 " Shortcake . . 
 Trifle. . . . 
 " Vinegar . . . 
 Raw Beef Cakes .... 
 " Cucumbers .... 
 
 359 
 13 
 66 
 272 
 55 
 277 
 353 
 394 
 42 
 132 
 
 Virginia ... 240 
 " Pudding Sauces 
 248 to 252 
 Puddings to Boil .... 242 
 " With Flour . . 236 
 
 " Potato Yeast . . . 
 " Tomatoes . . . . 
 Rhubarb Charlotte . . . 
 11 Marmalade . . 
 pie 
 
 315 
 44 
 231 
 370 
 222 
 
 Puff Paste 210 
 
 " Stewed 
 
 355 
 
 Pumpkin Pie . . , ; . . 217 
 
 Ribbon Blanc-mange . . 
 
 263 
 
 " Pudding ... 233 
 
 Rice Balls 
 
 91 
 
 Q- 
 
 Quail 168 
 
 " Blanc-mange . . . 
 " Cold, To Use ... 
 " Corn Bread. . . . 
 " Croflucttcs 
 
 266 
 
 208 
 50 
 
 on 
 
 Quail Pio 189 
 
 " Custard Puddingx 
 
 228 
 
 Queen's Toast . . . . 312 
 
 " Fritters 
 
 97 
 
 Quick Graham Biscuit . . 47 
 " Sponge Cake . . 336 
 Quince and Pear Marmalade 
 370 
 
 " Griddle Cakes . . . 
 " or Hominy Muffins . 
 " Pudding 
 " Puffs 
 
 60 
 47 
 228 
 237 
 
 " Jelly 374 
 
 " Rock . ... 
 
 28 
 
 " Preserves . . . 367 
 
 " Waffles 
 
 63 
 
 R. 
 Rabbit Pie 189 
 
 " Water 
 Rich Blackberry Pie . . 
 " Chowder 
 " Corn Bread 
 
 391 
 224 
 130 
 49 
 
 Rabbits .... 170, 171, 189 
 Raised Doughnuts ... 347 
 
 " Corn starch Blanc- 
 
 267 
 
 " Graham Gems . . 48 
 " Muffins .... 45 
 
 ich Ice Cream .... 
 " Lemon Pie .... 
 
 278 
 221 
 
420 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Rich Pie Crust . . . . 211 
 " Preserves, to make . 3GO 
 " Pudding Sauce. . . 249 
 
 " Waffles G2 
 
 Ring of Meat 30 
 
 Ripe Currant Pie. ... 223 
 
 Risen Waffles 62 
 
 Rising Powder Proportions 8 
 
 Roast Beef 173 
 
 " Chickens . . . . 1G1 
 
 " Ducks 104 
 
 " Goose 1G5 
 
 " Mutton or Lamb. . 180 
 " Oysters .... 136 
 " Pigeons .... 165 
 
 " Pork 181 
 
 " Rabbit 170 
 
 " Turkey 159 
 
 " Veal 178 
 
 Rolled Jelly Cake ... 326 
 " Pudding .... 246 
 " Sandwiches ... 65 
 
 Rolls, etc 299 to 307 
 
 Rolls (of Bread Dough) . 300 
 
 Rouge Mange 267 
 
 Roux, to make a .... 11 
 
 Rusk 304 
 
 Rye Beach Gingerbread . 338 
 Saddle of Venison . . . 170 
 Sago Blanc-mange . . . 266 
 
 " Pudding 226 
 
 Salad Dressing . . 142 to 144 
 " " to keep a week 144 
 
 Salads 141 to 147 
 
 Sally Lunn 51,52 
 
 Sally's Vinegar Sauce . . 25 1 
 
 Salmon 120, 126 
 
 " & 1'Indienne. . . 126 
 
 " Salad 145 
 
 Salsify 198, 199 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Salsify Fritters .... 198 
 
 Salt Codfish Stewed. . . 36 
 
 " Mackerel. . . . ' . 37 
 
 Sandusky Cake .... 330 
 
 Sandwiches . . . . 64, 65 
 
 Saratoga Potatoes ... 66 
 
 Sauce for Poached Eggs . 19 
 
 " Hollandaise ... 154 
 
 " Piquante .... 155 
 
 Sauces for Meat, etc. 150 to 157 
 
 " Puddings 248 to 252 
 
 Sausages 32, 33 
 
 Save-all Soup 109 
 
 Savoury Toast .... 65 
 Scotch Pudding .... 229 
 Scrambled Eggs .... 22 
 Sea Moss Blanc-mange. . 269 
 " Lemon Jelly. . 256 
 Seasonings, Thickenings, 
 and Accompaniments 
 
 to Soup 101 
 
 Seed Cakes 341 
 
 Shad 124, 125 
 
 Shelled Beans 202 
 
 Shell Fish 131 
 
 Sherry Toast 394 
 
 Short Cake . . . . 54 to 56 
 Shrewsbury Cakes . . . 345 
 
 Shrimp Salad 146 
 
 Silver Cake 332 
 
 Simple Charlotte Russe . 270 
 " Cornstarch Blanc- 
 mange 267 
 
 Slack-baked Bread, what 
 
 to do with .... 308 
 
 Slapjacks 60 
 
 Sliced Cucumber Pickled . 378 
 " Ham Dressed . . 32 
 Small Birds, any kind, to 
 
 Cook 168 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 421 
 
 PACK. 
 
 Small Cakes 340 
 
 Smelts 125 
 
 Smothered Chicken. *. . 103 
 
 " Oysters . . . 139 
 
 Snap Beans 202 
 
 Snow Balls 26G 
 
 " Cake 328 
 
 " Fritters .... 94 
 
 " Pudding .... 257 
 
 Soft Cookies 342 
 
 Soft Soap 397 
 
 Soggy under crust, to pre- 
 vent 214 
 
 Soup 100 to 117 
 
 Asparagus . . . . 110 
 
 " Bean and Tomato . 112 
 
 " Bean (Navy Beans) . 112 
 
 " Black Bean. . . . Ill 
 
 " Beef . . .... 105 
 
 " Bouillon * * . . 104 
 
 " Chicken Broth. . . 108 
 " " or Turkey 
 
 107, 108 
 
 " Clam 116 
 
 " Cora 116 
 
 " Green Pea . . k . 115 
 
 " Mock Bisque . . . 114 
 
 " Turtle ... 104 
 
 " Mutton or Lamb Broth 107 
 
 44 Noodle 106 
 
 " Okra or Gumbo . . Ill 
 
 " Oyster 116 
 
 " Pottage a la Reine . 109 
 
 " Potato or Lenten . 114 
 
 44 Save-all 109 
 
 " Spiced Tomato . . 112 
 
 " Tomato 113 
 
 " Veal 106 
 
 " Vegetables. . . . 110 
 
 " White 108 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Soups without Meat. 113 to 117 
 Sour Bread, what to do 
 
 with 308 
 
 Sour Cream Cookies . . 341 
 
 Sour Cream Sauce . . . 252 
 
 " Milk Graham Gems . 48 
 
 " " Short Cake . . 54 
 
 " to use ... 401 
 
 Spanish Cream .... 262 
 
 Toast .... 312 
 
 Spice Cake 329 
 
 44 Cookies .... 343 
 
 Spiced Beef 79 
 
 " Bread Pudding . . 234 
 
 " Currants .... 377 
 
 " Fish 128 
 
 " Gingerbread . . 838 
 
 44 Tomato Soup . . 112 
 
 Spices, etc., for Soup . . 101 
 
 Spinach 200 
 
 44 Sponge " (for Bread) . 316 
 
 Sponge Cake . . . 336 to 337 
 
 Gingerbread . . 338 
 
 Spruce Beer 354 
 
 Squash 195, 196 
 
 44 Fritters .... 97 
 
 Pie ... 217, 218 
 
 Squirrels 171 
 
 Stale Bread, to freshen . 309 
 
 St. Charles' Pone ... 50 
 
 St. Patrick's Pie ... 30 
 
 Steamed Brown Bread . 298 
 
 Eggs .... 385 
 
 44 Oysters ... 135 
 
 Stewed and Baked Fruits 355 
 
 44 Apples . . 355, 356 
 
 14 Berries, Cherries, 
 
 or Grapes . . 358 
 
 44 Breast of Veal . 178 
 
 44 Carrots . 197 
 
422 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Stewed Cauliflower . . . 197 
 
 Celery .... 200 
 
 Codfish (salt) . . 36 
 
 " Corn 203 
 
 " Cucumbers ... 205 
 
 " Ducks .... 164 
 
 " Eels 131 
 
 " Fish 129 
 
 " Fowl with Oysters 161 
 
 " Kidneys .... 33 
 
 " Oysters . . 133, 134 
 
 " Pears 358 
 
 " Pigeons .... 165 
 
 " Potatoes. ... 41 
 
 " Prunes .... 358 
 
 Kaisins .... 359 
 
 " Rhubarb .... 325 
 " Salsify or Oyster 
 
 Plant .... 198 
 
 " Terrapins . . . 141 
 
 " Tomatoes . . . 204 
 
 Stews 183 to 188 
 
 Stick Bread 298 
 
 Stirred Eggs with Gravy . 25 
 
 Stock for Soup .... 104 
 Strawberry Shortcake ... 55 
 
 String Beans 202 
 
 " " Canned . . 373 
 
 Stuffed Baked Tomatoes . 69 
 
 " Beefsteak . . . 175 
 
 " Egg-plant ... 71 
 
 " Eggs 26 
 
 " Peppers . . . . 199 
 
 " Potatoes .... 40 
 
 " Tomatoes ... 70 
 Stuffing, Gravy, Sauces, 
 
 etc. ... 147 
 
 for Baked Fish . 121 
 " " Ducks or 
 
 Geese ... 149 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Stuffing for Turkey, 
 Chicken, Veal, Lamb 
 or Fish . . . 147, 148 
 Succotash .... 203, 204 
 
 Suet Pudding 243 
 
 " or Fat, how to try out 11 
 
 " to Chop 11 
 
 Sugar Candy 288 
 
 " Gingerbread ... 339 
 
 " Taffy, with Nuts . 287 
 
 Suggestions for Tea . . 290 
 
 Summer Medley .... 204 
 
 " Salad .... 146 
 
 Squash. . . 195, 196 
 
 Superior Graham Bread . 297 
 
 Swedish Rolls .... 302 
 
 Sweet-breads 179 
 
 " Cucumber Pickles . 379 
 " Muffins .... 46 
 " Pickles (Pears. 
 
 Peaches or Cherries) . 378 
 
 Sweet Potato Custard Pie 220 
 
 " " Pie ... 216 
 
 " Pudding . 232 
 
 " Potatoes ... 39, 41 
 
 Swell Pudding .... 227 
 
 Sydney Smith's Salad 
 
 Dressing 143 
 
 Syllabub 269 
 
 Syrup Flavoring .... 253 
 " for Preserves . . 360 
 " Sauce 251 
 
 T. 
 
 Table of Approximate 
 
 Weights and Measures 8 
 
 Table of "Weights and 
 
 Measures 8 
 
 Taffy 287 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 423 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Tapioca or Sago Blanc- 
 mange 266 
 
 Pudding ... 226 
 
 Tarts 225 
 
 Tea 290, 348 
 
 " alaRusse .... 341) 
 
 Tea-Cakes 45, 46 
 
 Terrapins, Stewed . . . 141 
 Tempting Dish for Luncheon 78 
 The General's Sponge Cake 336 
 Thickened Milk .... 390 
 Thickenings for Soup . . 102 
 Things Made Without Eggs 400 
 
 Tipsy Parson 273 
 
 Tip-Top Jelly Cake . . . 323 
 
 Toast 310 to 313 
 
 " Sandwiches ... 31 
 
 To Bake Bread .... 294 
 
 " " Cake .... 317 
 
 " Blanch Almonds . . 13 
 
 " Boll . . 9 
 
 " " Fish 118 
 
 " " in Lard .... 9 
 
 " Meat .... 173 
 
 " " Pudding ... 24 
 
 " Bottle Cider .... 897 
 
 " Broil 12 
 
 " " Fish 124 
 
 " Can Fruit 371 
 
 " Chop Suet 11 
 
 " Clean or Draw Fowls . 158 
 " Color Frosting . . . 319 
 " Cook Small birds (any 
 
 kind) 168 
 
 " Egg-and-Crumb ... 12 
 ' ' Freshen Stale Bread, etc. 309 
 
 "Fry 10 
 
 " Glaze Pie-Crust . . . 214 
 " Judge whether Bread- 
 dough is Light ... 292 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 To Keep Poultry ... 159 
 " Make a Meringue . . 13 
 " " a lit >u\. ... 11 
 " " a Saucerf ul of Ice 
 Cream in Fifteen Min- 
 utes 396 
 
 " Make Gravy .... 149 
 " " Jelly .... 373 
 " " Rich Preserves . 360 
 
 " Mix Bread 291 
 
 " " Cake 316 
 
 " Open Clams .... 131 
 11 " Lobsters ... 140 
 
 " Parboil 9 
 
 " Pickle Fish .... 128 
 " Prepare Poultry ... 158 
 " " Sweet-breads 178 
 " Preserve Eggs for Win- 
 ter Use 396 
 
 " Prevent a soggy Under- 
 
 crust 214 
 
 " Raise Cream quickly . 399 
 " Roast Meat .... 172 
 " Select Poultry ... 157 
 " Stone Raisins ... 13 
 " Stuff and Truss Poultry 159 
 " Tell when Cake is done 318 
 " Thicken with Flour . 11 
 " Try out Fat or Suet . 11 
 " Use Apples .... 401 
 " " a Roast of Meat . 27 
 " " Milk .... 400,401 
 " " Sour Milk ... 401 
 " " Whites of Eggs . 400 
 " " Yolks of Eggs. . 400 
 " Warm a Boiled Pudding 243 
 " Wash Currants ... 13 
 " Poultry . . . 159 
 Tomato Catsup . . . 375, 376 
 " Marmalade. 370 
 
424 
 
 Alphabetical Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Tomato Omelet .... 24 
 Preserve . . 364, 365 
 
 " Salad 147 
 
 " Sauce .... 152 
 " Sauce with White 
 
 Sauce 152 
 
 " Soup 113 
 
 Tomatoes, Baked ... 69 
 
 Canned ... 372 
 
 " Devilled. . . 68 
 
 " Escaloped . . 44 
 
 " Fried ... 44, 68 
 
 " Raw .... 44 
 
 " Stewed ... 204 
 
 " Stuffed ... 70 
 
 " " Baked . 69 
 
 " Ways To Use . 208 
 
 Tough Beefsteak, To Use 31 
 
 Transparent Preserves . 364 
 
 Turkey 159, 160 
 
 " Soup . . . 107, 108 
 " " Warmed Over 34 
 
 Turnips 192 
 
 Turnovers 225 
 
 Tutti-Frutti Preserve . . 361 
 
 TJ. 
 
 Unequalled Buckwheat Cakes 57 
 Unleavened Biscuit ... 307 
 Uses for Bread Crumbs, A 
 
 List of 310 
 
 Uses for Pieces of Bread 
 
 and Crumbs .... 307 
 Uses for Pieces of Bread, 
 
 List of 309 
 
 v. 
 
 Vanities 236 
 
 Vanilla Sauce. 251 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Variety Cake 325 
 
 Veal aux Pommes ... 35 
 
 " and Ham Loaf. . . 80 
 
 " Croquettes .... 84 
 
 " Cutlets or Chops . . 179 
 
 " Loaf 81 
 
 " Pates 93 
 
 " Pot Pie 190 
 
 " Salad 145 
 
 " Soup 106 
 
 " Stew .... 183, 184 
 
 Vegetables . . . .39, 66, 190 
 
 Vegetable Soup .... 110 
 
 Velvet Cream 259 
 
 Venison .... 86, 169, 170 
 
 " Croquettes ... 86 
 
 " Steaks .... 109 
 
 Victoria Pudding ... 244 
 
 Vinegar Candy .... 288 
 
 " Sauce .... 251 
 
 Virginia Pudding ... 241 
 
 W. 
 
 Wafers 307 
 
 Waffles 62, 63 
 
 Walnut Catsup .... 375 
 
 Wafers .... 345 
 Warmed-over Chicken or 
 
 Turkey 34 
 
 Washington Cake . . . 332 
 
 Pie .... 238 X 
 
 Watermelon Rind, Pickled 379 
 " " Preserved 363 
 
 Ways to use Cold Fish . 131 
 
 " " " " Potatoes 208 
 
 " " " " Rice . 208 
 
 44 " " Tomato 208 
 " " " up a Roast of 
 
 Meat . . 27 
 
 Wedding Cake .... 334 
 
Alphabetical Index. 
 
 425 
 
 PAGE. 
 Weights and Measures, 
 
 Table of 8 
 
 Welsh Rarebit .... 6G 
 
 Whey 391 
 
 Whipped Cream . . . . 2C9 
 
 White Cake 328 
 
 " Gingerbread ... 339 
 
 " Mountain Cake . . 323 
 
 " Sauce 154 
 
 " Soup 108 
 
 Whites of Eggs, to use . 400 
 
 Wild Birds, Rechauff6. . 77 
 
 " Ducks 166 
 
 " Pigeons .... 168 
 
 " Turkey 166 
 
 Wine and Orange Jelly . 255 
 Wine Jelly. , . . 253,254 
 
 Wine Sauce 250 
 
 " Whey 392 
 
 Winter Squash .... 195 
 
 Succotash ... 203 
 
 T. 
 
 Yeast 313 to 316 
 
 " Raw Potato ... 315 
 
 " With Hops ... 815 
 
 Yellow Sauce 251 
 
 Yolks of Eggs, To Use . 400 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zest 
 
 253 
 
7 DAY USE 
 
 ' '-M