GIFT OF THOMA* RlTUiF.RFORD BACON HOW TO COOK WELL BY J. ROSALIE BENTON With baked and boiled, and stewed and toasted. And fried and broiled, and smoked and roasted, We treat the town/* SALMAGUNDI. BOSTON D. LOTHROP AND COMPANY FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS . Copyright, 1886, by D. LOTHROP & COMPANY. TO MY LITTLK DAUGHTER MARGARET THIS BOOK 18 LOVINGLY DEDICATED 267912 PREFACE. IN the following collection of receipts some are entirely original ; many are contributed by friends ; others are well- known favorites which have stood the test of time ; and the rest are similar to those found in trustworthy cook books, but altered after trial, according to taste. To those who have generously given their choice receipts to add to the attractions of "I low to Cook Well," public ac- knowledgment and thanks are here rendered. The writer of this book has aimed not merely to give a collection of receipts, but to teach cooking, and also, by arranging departments for Breakfast, Luncheon, Dinner and Tea, to present suggestions to those housekeepers who find themselves taxed to make variety in the different meals. The style of cooking here given is for the most part suited to people of moderate means, and especial attention has been paid to showing how to use in a tempt- ing manner remnants from a former meal. The order of mixing and the time for cooking has been given with nearly every receipt, and after many of them the size of the family for which they are intended is stated. If the directions given in the book are carefully followed, the author has no fears for those who learn to cook by its aid, provided they have brains ! J^ 3 Study the General Directions, and read carefully the "Remarks" at the head of whatever you undertake to cook. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Explanatory Notes . General Directions . PAGB. 7 9 BREAKFAST .... 15 Cereals 16 Eggs 18 Meats for Breakfast . . 27 Fish " " . . 35 Miscellaneous Dishes . . 37 Vegetables for Breakfast 30 Breakfast and Tea Cakes . 45 Griddle Cakes, etc. . . . 56 LUNCHEON 64 Vegetables for Luncheon . 6G Miscellaneous Dishes . . 72 Pressed Meats .... 78 Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc. 82 Pates 91 Fritters 93 DINNER 100 Soup 100 Fish . . ^' . , t . . 117 Shell Fish 131 Salads . 141 PAGE. Stuffing, Gravy, Sauces, etc 147 Poultry, Game, etc. . . . 157 Meats 171 Stews 183 Meat Pies 188 Vegetables 190 DESSERTS 209 Pies 209 Puddings 226 Pudding Sauces .... 248 Delicacies for Dessert . 252 Ice Cream, etc 278 Candy 281 TEA 290 Bread 291 Yeast 313 Cake 316 Drinks ....*.. 348 Stewed and Baked Fruits, 355 Preserves and Jellies . . 359 Catsups and Pickles . . 375 For the Sick 383 Miscellaneous . . , 396 EXPLANATORY NOTES. THE measurements given in this book fire exact^ no deviation from them being allowed for. When the expression, one cupful or one teaspoon ful, is used, it means that the cup or spoon is to be filled even full. This is particularly to be remembered in connection with soda, for if the spoon is at all hea]>ed the rank taste and smell of the soda will be sure to spoil what otherwise might have been very good. In measuring soda the lumps should first be powdered ; then take up a heaping spoonful, and with the finger laid across the spoon in such a way as to touch both sides, carefully remove all that is superfluous, leaving a smooth, even teaspoonful. Soda must always, unless otherwise specified, be dissolved in a little wann water before mixing it with other compounds. Cream of tartar, on the contrary, should be put in dry and mixed with the flour. I have therefore put it next to flour in the lists of ingredients, and connected the two by a parenthesis to show that they go together. Where the quantity of flour is not mentioned definitely, mix the cream of tartar with a few spoonfuls of flour. Baking powder should be mixed in the same way. That used in this book is the Koyal. The only exception to the rule of exact measurements is in the case of butter. A cupful of butter should not be packed, but the butter should be put in loosely, in pieces. The cup used for measuring is always "the ordinary- sized kitchen coffee-cup, holding just half a pint. vii viii Explanatory Notes. Where a parenthesis occurs in a list, it shows that the ingredients connected by it are to be mixed together be- fore adding anything else. Where no directions are given for the order of mixing, no special order is necessary. In some places the direc- tions may seem needlessly minute, but they are not really so. It is only by attending carefully to apparent trifles that one can become a good cook. Wherever quotations-marks are used about a receipt or process in cooking, the reader should refer to the direc- tions for same as contained in this book. TABLE OF APPROXIMATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 1 qt. sifted flour, about . . . . 1 Ib. 1 qt. pulverized sugar . . 1 Ib. 7 oz. 1 qt. granulated sugar . . 1 Ib. 9 oz. 1 pt. closely packed butter 1 Ib. 1 tablespoonf ul butter, about . 1 oz. 10 eggs 1 Ib. 1 quart cornmeal . . . . 1 Ib. 2 oz. 4 cups sifted flour 1 Ib. RISING POWDER PROPORTIONS. 1 quart flour needs 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 1 quart flour needs 1 teaspoonful soda and 2 of cream tartar 1 cup sour milk needs i teaspoonful soda. TABLES OP WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Avoirdupois Weight. 16 ounces make one pound. I 4 quarters make one hundredweight. 25 pounds make one quarter. | 20 hundredweight make one ton. Liquid Measure. 4 gills make 1 pint. 2 pints make 1 quart. 4 quarts make 1 gallon. Dry Measure. 2 pints make 1 quart. 8 quarts make 1 peck. 4 pecks make 1 bushel. 6 quarts dry measure are nearly equal to 7 quarts liquid. 1 coffee-cup equals J pint, i a coffee-cup equals 1 gill. 10 flat tablespoon fuls equal 1 cupful. 4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful. GENERAL DIRECTIONS. How to Boil. ALLOW plenty of water, unless the directions for some exceptional thing are given to the contrary. Do not al- low the water to boil down enough to expose to the air what you are cooking. If it should, fill up the j>ot grad- ually (so as not to check the boiling) with boiling water from the tea-kettle. Almost everything is better for be- ing boiled slowly (meat must be, to be tender), and the pot should be kept covered. Boiling must be continuous ; many things are ruined if the process stops even for a few minutes. This is especially the case with meat and pud- dings. How to Parboil. This is to boil anything till only half done. How to Boil in Lard. (The word fry is often applied to this process, but to fry is something quite different, as will be seen later.) Put into a rather deep kettle two or three pounds of lard. There should be enough to completely cover the article to be cooked. This ought not to be put in till the heat of the lard has been tested. Let it simmer (not boil fast), then throw in a bit of bread. If it browns directly, the fat is hot enough. If it burns, set the kettle on the back of the stove where the contents will cool down. If there is any danger of burning what you are cooking, throw into the fat a slice of raw potato. Cook Well. It is a good plan to have ready a large piece of soft, thick paper on which to lay for a moment the potatoes, or whatever you have cooked, as soon as taken out of the lard ; it will absorb any superfluous grease though if one takes pains to have the lard hot enough, the articles cooked in it will not be very greasy. This is a favorite way of cooking, and it is not extrava- gant if properly attended to. When you have finished using it, let the lard stand a few minutes, without boiling, to settle ; then strain it while still hot into a clean jar. When cold, cover tight, and set in a cold place. It can be used several times over for the same thing, and in fact other things may be cooked in it, unless it has been used for fish, or it has a strong, decided flavor from what has been boiled in it before. Beef suet tried out (see page 11) and salted, is as good as lard for this purpose, and cheaper. How to Pry. This is a process but little understood, though used ex- tensively by those who know least about cooking. The most necessary point is the one they will not attend to, and that is, to have the frying-pan and the grease hot when the thing to be fried is put in. Then, it will not be greasy. Use only enough fat to keep from burning what- ever is cooked in it. Butter, beef-dripping, lard and salt pork are all used for frying. The former does not give so rich a brown as the others, and is, beside, too costly for ordinary use. Beef-dripping is cheaper than lard, and just as good, if not better. Salt pork should be cut in rather thin slices, and taken out when the grease is extracted from it, before putting in what you wish to fry. Salt Pork is cheap, and gives a delicious flavor, peculiarly suitable to certain things, such as fish-balls. When you fry in it, do not use much salt in seasoning. General Directions. 11 How to Try out Fat or Suet. Save all the fat from beef, raw or cooked. Cut it in small pieces. Put it in a frying-pan with but just enough water to keep it from burning. Put it over a slow fire ; stir occasionally and let it all melt. Then simmer about five minutes. Throw in two or three slices of raw potato to clear it, and leave it five minutes more. Set it off the fire to settle ; then strain it into jars. When cold, cover tight, and set in a cold place. It will keep a long time if covered again every time you dip from it. ISeef suet chopped and freed from fibre, may be prepared in the same way. Some persons buy it for the purpose. It is both cheaper and more wholesome than lard. To Chop Suet. Cut it apart ; free it from strings, and scatter flour over it. Then chop very fine. The flour will prevent the pieces from adhering together. To Thicken with Flour. Rub a little flour to a smooth paste with enough cold water (or milk) to cover it. Pour it when smooth into the soup, or whatever you wish to thicken, when that is boiling. If these rules are not attended to the flour will lump. Corn starch should be treated in the same way. A little flour may be dredged into boiling liquor, with- out lumping, if sprinkled in slowly while stirring fast. If butter is to be added with the flour, it need not be moistened. Simply rub the flour and butter together and stir in. A better way, though more troublesome, is To Make a Roux. Put some butter in a pan. When it bubbles, sprinkle in dry flour. Stir briskly and constantly till the flour is 12 How to Cook Well. cooked, but do not let it brown (unless you want to color what you are cooking). Pour a little of the hot sauce on it, and mix well before stirring in to the whole. How to Egg-and-Crumb. Croquettes and other things' to be boiled in lard, or fried, are often prepared thus : Roll fine stale crackers or bread-crumbs. Then sift them on to a large plate. In another large plate have one or two eggs, beaten slightly and seasoned with a little pepper and salt (unless they are to be used for sweet- dishes) ; some persons add also one tablespoonful of cream or milk to each egg. Dip each croquette when ready, first into the crumbs, and roll it in them till every side is covered. Then roll it in the eggs, and then in the crumbs again. N. B. If you have yolks or whites of eggs left from making cake, use them for egg-and-crumbing. They will do just as well as whole eggs. KJ How to Broil. Heat and grease a gridiron. Never cook anything on a cold gridiron. Lay on the steak (or whatever it is) and cover with an inverted pan to keep in the heat and flavor. Turn often while cooking, but do not stick a fork into meat, or the juices will escape. Bo not add seasoning till you dish it. Fish and spring chicken should be dredged with flour before being placed on the gridiron. Put them with the inside toward the fire, first. Small things require to be cooked quickly over a clear, hot fire. Large thick things (unless you wish them rare inside, like beefsteak) should have a moderate heat at first, and the heat should be increased towards the last. General Directions. 13 If you cannot manage this, put the gridiron at first a good distance from the fire, and afterwards move it nearer. To Blanch Almonds. Shell the nuts, pour boiling water over them and let them stand a few minutes. Then remove the skins, which will slip off easily. Dry them in a towel. To Wash Currants. Zante currants are very dirty things. Put them in a pan, and pour scalding water over them. Shake them about and drain at once. Then pour on cold water. Rub hard between the hands and drain again. Then spread the currants on a towel laid open on a table. With another towel rub them dry. Pick over and spread on platters in the heater till perfectly dry. Then put into glass jars till wanted. Scatter flour over them before putting them in cake, to make sure of their not sinking to the bottom. To Stone Raisins. Pour boiling water over them and let them stand five or ten minutes. Drain and rub each raisin between the thumb and finger till the seeds come out clean. Dry the raisins before using, and rub them in flour before putting into cake, to prevent their sinking to the bottom. If chopped, flour should be scattered over them to prevent their adhering together. To Make a Meringue. Take the whites of as many eggs as you like; four will be enough to cover a large dish. Allow one half tablespoonful of sugar (pulverized is best) to each egg (if you use much sugar the meringue will be less light) ; and after beating them stiff, add the sugar. Beat only just 14- How to Cook Well enough to mix it in. Spread the meringue over a pudding or whatever you like, and set on the top shelf of the oven, which should be very hot. Watch it closely, for it will brown in a moment, and if not removed at once will burn. It should be only a yellow-brown, not a dark color. It is best served as soon as it is perfectly cold. BREAKFAST. REMARKS ON BREAKFAST. BREAKFAST ought to be made a very pleasant meal, be- ginning the day, as it does, after the family have been sep- arated for the night. Yet in how many families is it the custom to send off the master of the house to his daily round of business with an unsatisfied feeling after partak- ing of a hurried, uncomfortable meal, composed mainly of the remains of yesterday's dinner, warmed over in any way most easy to the cook, without seasoning, and alto- gether unpalatable. I am not finding fault with the materials for the break- fast, but with the manner of preparing and serving. By all means use at breakfast what is left from dinner of the day before, but cook it carefully, season it appetizingly, serve it prettily, and have it hot smoking hot, not merely warm. Give your cook to understand that she must be down in the morning in time to get ready the breakfast with as much care as she bestows upon the din- ner. Be down yourself at the moment of dishing it, to see to its being served temptingly. If summer, and your home is in the country, have al- ways a few flowers on the breakfast table, no matter what you do at other meals. Even a few daisies or clover blos- soms, with the dew still on them, lend a grace that is pleasing. If winter, have highly-colored fruit, if possible, such as oranges. If your purse cannot afford this, see 15 16 How to Cook Well that at least the silver is shining, the coffee-pot bright, and the table has an air of warmth and comfort. An aid to this is a red tablecloth in winter ; but be sure that it is clean and spotless. Do not allow it to be left on the table between meals, but substitute a different one for this purpose. DRINKS. (For Coffee, Tea, Cocoa, and Chocolate, see page 348.) CEREALS. Boiled Oatmeal. 1 cup oatmeaL 14 quarts cold water. li teaspoonfuls salt. Do not wash oatmeal. Put it on, with the water and salt, in a double-boiler and let it boil hard till all the water is absorbed. Stir only once, when it first begins to boil. It should boil as long as two hours, and it is therefore a good plan to cook it the afternoon before it is to be served. It can then easily be made hot for breakfast, adding a very little water. Oatmeal cooked in a hurry, with the kernels only half-swelled, is not fit for any human stomach. Eat hot with cream and sugar. For a family of five. What is left from breakfast may be used for " Oatmeal Griddle Cakes," or may be fried for tea. Boiled Hominy (fine). 1 cup hominy. li quarts boiling water. 2 even teaspoonfuls salt. Boil hard in a double boiler till the water is all absorbed. It may be one and one half hours, probably less. Serve hot, with cream, or butter and sugar. Breakfast. 17 What is left over, use for muffins, griddle cakes, hom- iny bread; or fry it as croquettes. Never throw away even a half-cupful of fine hominy, for the ways to use it are innumerable. Boiled Samp or Hominy (coarse). 4 cup hominy. 2 quarts boiling water. 1 toaspoonful Halt. Soak for two hours in cold water enough to cover it. Then add the boiling water and salt, and boil about three hours or until tender. Drain off the water when done and save it for a very delicate and delicious thickening for soup. (It is so rich that it will jelly when cold.) Serve the hominy hot, with cream and sugar. What is left, use for "Baked Hominy," for luncheon or tea. Corn Meal Hasty Pudding. Mix one pint corn meal with a little cold water and one teaspoonful of salt. Stir it into five quarts of water, boiling hard in a large iron pot. Let it boil about half an hour. Then stir in one cup more of meal (dry). From time to time, throw in a little more meal, taking care that it docs not get too thick. Taste it, to be sure that it is salt enough, and stir often to prevent burning. Boil fully one hour, and be sure that it is thoroughly done. Serve hot with butter and molasses, or milk and sugar. Use what is left for "Corn Bread" (using the h:isty pudding for part of the corn meal), or for "Fried Hasty Pudding." By adding eggs, a bit of butter, spice, molasses and milk you can make a good baked pudding. Graham Hasty Pudding. M.ike like Corn Meal Hasty Pudding, and serve hot with butter an-1 sugar, or milk. 18 How to Cook Well. Fried Hasty Pudding, Hominy and Oatmeal. These should be boiled the day before, and set away in a wet pan to stiffen. A deep, square pan is the best. Cut in half-inch slices and fry in lard or beef dripping until brown. The corn meal will take fully half an hour to brown. Serve hot with syrup or molasses. EGGS. Boiled Eggs. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Wash, and put each egg into the water with a tablespoon so as not to crack the shell. Be sure that the water more than covers the eggs and is not boiling too violently. Boil for three minutes if you like them soft ; twelve if hard. Another way of boiling eggs soft is to put them in an egg-dish or deep covered bowl. Pour over them water which you are quite sure is boiling (not simply hot), to take the chill off. Drain off this, and cover a second time with boiling water. Cover tight; set on the breakfast table and leave in the water about ten minutes. Boiled Eggs (French Style). Wash the eggs, and put them in a sauce-pan full of boil- ing water. Set the sauce-pan at once on a part of the stove where the water will keep as hot as possible^ without boil- ing. Leave the eggs in just ten minutes. This is the nicest way to boil them. Eggs left from breakfast may afterwards be boiled hard and used for various things, such as Convent Eggs, Baked Eggs a la Creme, Escalloped Eggs and Meat, Pressed Veal, and Egg Sauce ; or slice them for Spinach or Soup or to garnish a dish of fish. Rredkfast. 19 Poached or Dropped Eggs. Make sure your frying-pan is perfectly clean, as the least impurity will spoil the whiteness of the eggs. Pour into it boiling water. Hreak the eggs earefully into a plate, taking care that they do not run together, and that the yolks do not break. Take the frying-pan oft the stove and carefully slip the eggs from the plate upon the sur- face of the water. Put the frying-pan back on the stove and boil gently for three minutes, dipping the water oc- casionally over the top of the eggs. Have ready slices of buttered toast, on a hot platter. Take out the eggs with a perforated skimmer, and lay upon the toast. Sprinkle the yolks with pepper and salt. If only one or two eggs are to be poached, it is a good plan to put muffin-rings in the water, and break the eggs each into a ring. This will keep them nicely in shape. Poached Eggs with Sauce. 4 tablespoon fuls veal gravy. 4 tablespoonfuls cold water. 1 or 2 teaspoon fills good viiiegar. A little pepper and -alt . 4 ftfffs (yolks only). Some poached eggs. Put the first four ingredients into a stew-pan on the fire. While it is heating beat yolks of the eggs and " Poach " some eggs. When the mixture begins to boil, pour it upon the beaten yolks, stirring fast. Return it to the fire for a moment to thicken. Stir it every minute and do not leave it long enough to boil. Have ready the poached eggs in a platter. Pour the hot sauce over and garnish the dish with parsley. A Cheaper Sauce for Poached Eggs. Put half a nip of tailing water in a sauce-pan, with two or three large spoonfuls of nice, strained gravy of any 20 How to Cook 'Well. kind, a little pepper and one quarter teaspoon ful of salt. When it boils stir in a heaping teaspoonful of flour, wet smoothly with a little cold water. Stir and boil one min- ute, then add a tablespoonful of butter. Stir steadily two minutes longer, till thick as cream, and add, if you like, a little minced parsley, or chopped pickle. Eggs Poached in OIL {A New Orleans Receipt.) Olive oiL Eggs- Mushrooms, cooked and chopped. Onions, sliced fine. Capers. Parsley. Beef stock, or mushroom water. Put just enough olive oil in a skillet to cook the eggs one by one by tipping the pan. Drop each egg in whole. Cook till the white is " set." Then lay on a hot platter. When all are done, put into the oil a very little onion and fry brown. Add three mushrooms for each egg, a few capers, and a little parsley chopped very fine. Dredge in a sprinkling of flour, and add a little beefstock, or water from the mushroom can. Pepper and salt to tnste. Cook a moment, stirring constantly, and pour over the eggs. Pried Eggs. Put in a frying-pan one half tablespoonful of ham fat, lard or butter (the first is best). Drop the eggs one at a time, breaking them carefully so as not to let the yolk and white run together. Let them fry about three minutes. Take up and put on a hot platter, draining off all the grease you can. Ham and Eggs. Cut two thin slices of ham, either raw or boiled, and take off the rind, but leave on some of the fat. If the ham is very salt, pour hot water over it, but do not leave it to Breakfast. 21 soak. Wipe the slices dry, and put into a hot frying-pan (not greased). Move these occasionally in the pan so that they will not burn, and turn them in about two minutes. Lay on a hot platter when thoroughly done, and keep hot while you drop four eggs (broken carefully) into the fat which remains in the frying-pan. Leave them about two minutes to fry, then put them on the ham ; two eggs to each slice of ham. Baked Eggs. Butter an earthen plate. Into it drop carefully one egg at a time (keeping the yolk whole) till the plate is full ; the eggs being side by side, as for poached eggs. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a bit of butter on each. Set in a very hot oven, and bake about three minutes, until they are " set." Baked Eggs a la Crime. 12 eggs boiled hard. A cup fresh bread crumbs, f 1 pound butter. 1 1 large tablespoon ful flour. Chopped parsley (may be omitted). 1 cup cream (milk will do). Pepper and salt. i of a small ouion, chopped. Butter a deep pudding-dish and sprinkle with a few of the crumbs. Then slice each egg into six pieces. Put a layer of these, then of crumbs, etc., till the dish is filled. Rub the butter and flour together till smooth. Put them in a sauce-pan and add the other things. Give them one hard boil, stirring well, and pour over the eggs. Cover the top of the dish with crumbs, and set in a very hot oven to brown quickly. Serve in the same dish. This makes a large dishful ; enough for eight persons or more. Escaloped Eggs and Meat. Wet bread or cracker crumbs thoroughly with milk. Put a layer of them in a deep buttered dish. Then put 22 How to Cook Well a layer of cold hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices, and spread with butter ; pepper and salt. Then have a layer of chicken, veal, or ham (finely minced). Repeat. Have crumbs on top. Dot with butter and pour over all half a cupful of milk. Bake in a hot oven till well heated through, no longer. This is an economical and tempting dish. It is nice for breakfast, luncheon or tea. Another with Raw Eggs. i cup soaked crumbs. Any kind cold meat, minced. A little minced parsley. 3 tablespoonfuls cream. 1 tablcspoonf ul butter, melted. Pepper, and a pinch of salt. 6 eggs, well beaten. Butter a small, deep pudding-dish. Line the bottom and sides with the crumbs, which should be quite moist. Then put in the meat, moistened with water, and mixed with the parsley (this may be omitted). Set in a very hot oven, covered tight, till smoking hot. Do not leave it in long, or it will get dry. While it is heating beat the eggs light and stir the cream and butter into them. Sea- son and pour the mixture upon the hot meat. Put the dish back in the oven, uncovered, and leave it a few min- utes until the eggs are " set." Serve immediately. Scrambled Eggs. Break the eggs into a dish. Do not beat them. Put a piece of butter- in a pan, and when it is hot pour the eggs in. Stir with a fork, without stopping, about three minutes, having the pan over the hottest part of the fire. As soon as the eggs are cooked set the pan back ; add pepper and salt, and dish at once, either on "Dipped Toast " or in a covered dish. Another Way. 1 egg, yolk and white separate. I h saltspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonf ul milk. I Butter in frying-pan. Allow this amount for each person. Put the butter in* a frying-pan to heat, having the amount regulated by the Breakfast. 23 number of eggs you mean to use. Beat the yolks and add the milk and salt. Pour these in with the butter when hot. As soon as they begin to thicken, j>our in the whites (not beaten at all). Do not stir them till they begin to look "set," then mix gently with the yolks, using a fork. Do not allow them to remain an instant after this, or they will be sj>oiled. Serve hot on buttered toast, moistened slightly. Fried Omelet (No. 1). To each person allow two eggs ; and to each egg allow one tablespoonful of milk, a pinch of pepper and half a saltspoonful of salt. Beat yolks and whites separately, adding the milk and seasoning to the yolks. Put a tablc- s] MM .11 ful of butter into a frying-pan. Watch it; it must not burn, but simply become hot. When this is the case, quickly and lightly add the stiff whites to the l>eaten yolks (not before), and pour all together into the frying-pan. Do not let this be too hot. This is the great danger in making omelets. An omelet should cook gently for ten minutes, to be tender and delicately browned. Do not stir it at all, but keep slipping a knife carefully under the batter to prevent its sticking. Also shake the pan con- stantly and gently. As it thickens on the edges begin to roll it up (carefully) in the pan, letting the liquid batter from the top run over to the further side of the pan, where it will stiffen in time to be rolled up in its turn. Heal dexterity is required to do this handsomely, which can only be attained by practice. A beginner had better first try making small omelets, which require to be folded over, simply. Serve an omelet hot, and eat before it falls. Fried Omelet (No. 2). If you have not as many eggs as you wish, allow half a tablespoonful of powdered cracker-crumbs to each egg. It is, in any <-n.sc, a pleasant addition, and makes the omelet very light. 24 How to Cook Well. Cream Omelet. 3 eggs. tablespoonfuls corn starch. cup milk. 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 1 teaspoon! ul salt. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and add them to the yolks, previously well beaten with the corn starch and salt. Beat all together thoroughly and add the milk. Put the butter in the frying-pan, and when melted pour in the mixture. Cover and place where it will brown, but not burn. Cook about seven minutes. Fold, turn on a hot dish and pour " Cream Sauce " around it. Enough for five persons. Ham Omelet. Make like either of the "Fried Omelets," mixing through the yolks and milk, a little minced boiled ham. Or, pour part of the batter into the frying-pan, then put in a layer of the ham and cover with the batter. Beef may be used instead of ham, though it is not so nice. Tomato Omelet. 6 eggs, beaten light. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 4 tomatoes, chopped fine. Pepper and salt. I i tablespoonf ul butter. To the beaten eggs add the flour, previously rubbed with the butter. Then beat in the tomatoes, season and fry like " Fried Omelet." French Omelet. 1 cup boiling milk. Butter the size of an egg. 1 scant cupful bread-crumbs, fine and soft. 6 eggs, yolks and whites sepa- rate. Pepper and salt. Pour the boiling milk over the butter and crumbs. When cool add the yolks of the eggs, beaten light. Beat well. Just before frying, mix in lightly the beaten whites Breakfast. 25 and add seasoning. Fry in butter. See "Fried Omelet." This will make two large omelets, each sufficient for five persons. Baked Omelet. 1 pint of hot milk, or less. $ table-spoonful melted butter. 1 teaspoon ful salt 2 teaspoon fills flour. 3 eggs, beaten light To the hot milk add the butter. To the eggs add the salt and the flour (rubbed to a paste with a spoonful of cold milk). Pour the hot milk ujxm this mixture, stirring quickly. Pour into a buttered pudding-d'sh (which should be slightly warmed) and bake in a quick oven fifteen min- utes. Serve before it falls. Convent Eggs. 4 hard-boiled eggs. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 onion, sliced flue. 2 teaspoon fills flour, wet to a paste. Salt and pepper. 1 cup milk. Shell the eggs, cut into six slices each. Put the butter into the frying-pan, and when it melts and is very hot add the onion and fry till tender, but not until it browns. Mix in the milk. When it boils add the flour, stirring until it forms a sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Put in the eggs, and when they are thoroughly heated serve at once on hot toast. Stirred Eggs with Gravy. 1 dessert-spoonful butter. I 4 cupful gravy. eggs, not beaten. | Pepper and salt Melt the butter in a pan, over a very hot fire. Then break in the eggs. Add gravy and seasoning and stir quickly and constantly from the bottom. It should cook only one or two minutes. Have ready a platter covered with slices of hot toast. Pour the mixture on the toast and serve at once. Poultry gravy is best, though any 26 How to Cook Well. kind will do. A little grated cheese stirred in just before serving is an improvement, as is also a little anchovy paste spread on the toast. Curried Eggs and Toast. 1 dessertspoonful butter. A pinch of salt. i teaspoon ful curry paste, or powder. A pinch of cayenne pepper. 1 dessertspoonful milk. 2 hard-boiled eggs. Melt the butter in the frying-pan. Add the salt and pepper, the curry and milk. Stir well. Mash fine the contents of the eggs, and add them. Simmer very gently until it thickens. Stir constantly, that it may not curdle. Do not let it get too thick. Serve on buttered toast. N. B. If curry-powder is used, put in a little more but- ter and milk, or it will be too dry. Devilled Eggs. Remove the shells from cold, hard-boiled eggs. Cut in halves, and pare a small slice off the bottom, so that each half will stand alone. Take out the yolks. Rub them to a paste with a little melted butter and a few drops of vinegar. Season with a pinch of cayenne-pepper, salt and mustard. Fill the whites with the paste. Cover a plate with young lettuce leaves or parsley, and serve the eggs on it, for a hot summer morning's breakfast. These are very nice for picnics, or for a luncheon or supper table. Stuffed Eggs. Boil the eggs hard; cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the yolks, which mash well, adding a little finely minced onion, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Mash also double the quantity of bread, previously soaked in cream. Mix the yolks, bread, onion, parsley, and season- ing together, and stir into them the raw yolk of an egg. Taste, to see if they are properly seasoned. Stuff the Breakfast. 27 whites with this mixture, so that each half-egg lias the appearance of containing a whole yolk. Smooth the re- mainder of the mixture on the bottom of a pie-dish. Arrange the halves symmetrically in this bed and brown slightly in a very hot oven. MEATS FOR BREAKFAST. REMARKS. In warming over cold meat and bringing it to the table under various attractive forms a real art is hidden. Hut do not despise learning it. You will be repaid by the absence of the greasy, unappetizing preparations which too often appear on otherwise well-appointed tables. All kinds of meat can lie wanned over. Even the little boiled on a soujvlnme should not l>c thrown away. Meat which has been already cooked should be made merely hot, not re-cooked until all the goodness is gone out of it. In preparing hash, etc., be careful to remove all gristle and fat. Pay great attention to seasoning nicely, and make as much variety as jM>ssible. Apropos of this (for I know how hard it is to use up a large roast of meat, when the family consists of only two persons, perhaps) here is a list of Ways to Use up a Roast of Meat. Plain hash (with potato). St. Patrick's pie. Breakfast dish of cabbage. A summer medley. An appetizing breakfast dish. Casserole rice and meat. Mousaka. Dolmath6s. Breakfast turnovers. It will be seen that any of the first five dishes can be used a second time, for any that follow. Meat warmed in slices. Mlroton. Cold meat stew. Minced, hashed. A ring of meat Ham omelet (using beef). Escallo}>ed eggs and meat. Meat balls, or croquettes, hash. 28 now to Cook Well. Hash. Hash can be varied in a number of ways. Remove all fat and gristle from cold meat, and chop it very fine if to be used without potato, coarser, if with. Chop the pota- toes separately, using rather more potato than meat. Have ready in a hot frying-pan a little gravy, milk, or water and butter. Put in the hash, with salt and pepper. Stir and toss every moment till of a good consistency and smoking hot. Then serve at once. All hash should be cooked over a very hot fire. Browned Hash Is prepared as above, using mutton, corned beef or ham, and mashed potato if you like. Instead of warming it in gravy, put a lump of beef-dripping (or other fat) in the pan and brown on the under side without stirring. When crisp and brown, serve bottom side up on a hot platter. If corned beef is used, a little chopped red pepper may be added ; with ham, a little mustard. Minced Hash. This is fine hash, without potato. Stir while heating it, and serve on dipped toast. This should be seasoned with especial care. A little catsup, " Claret Syrup " or "Stewed Tomato" is a pleasant addition. If veal is used add mace, sage and a little chopped celery. If beef a little marjoram. Poultry Hash Is made like minced hash. Mix with it the stuffing, and add, if you have any, the remains of oysters cooked in any way, and chopped, or a little " Boiled Rice " may be used. Vary it by adding curry powder. Baked Hash. Mince fine any kind of cold meat, and season it well. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, in layers with crumbs of bread or cracker, having the layers of meat about twice as Breakfast. 29 thick as the crumbs. Pour half a cupful of gravy, milk, or water (or more if the dish is large) over all. Cover with dots of butter, and bake in a very hot oven till brown. Put layers of tomato or rice (cooked) in place of crumbs, for a change. If you use tomato a little ground cloves is a good addition. Veal treated thus is excellent. Baked Hash With Eggs. Mince fine any kind of cold meat. Season well. Put it in a shallow buttered pudding-dish, grate stale bread crumbs on top, and moisten the whole by pouring over it a little cold gravy, or milk (water will do). Set the dish in a very hot oven, and as soon as it is warm, break sev- eral eggs (whole) over the top in such a way as not to break the yolks. Sprinkle with salt and pepj>er, and leave in the oven till the eggs are "set," f. e., keep their shape. Another way is to make a mixture as for fried omelet. Pour it over the meat and set in a hot oven till just cooked through. This should IKJ eaten before it falls. These arc good ways to "help out" a small amount of meat. An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. Butter a pudding-dish and till with the following mixt- ure: Rare meat, minced very fine, enough to fill the dish half-full ; half as much boiled rice, and one half as much tomato, cooked in any way. Mix all together, add a bit of butter, melted, and season highly with salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, and ground cloves. Taste a little to be sure of the seasoning Fill the pudding-dish, pour one cupful of gravy, or water, over all, and bake in a very hot oven till brown. This is of course as economical as deli- cious, all the requisite ingredients being " left over." What is left of this mix into soup. The same mixture is delicious baked in patty-pans, or it may be fried like meat balls. This is much improved by adding a slice or two of cooked i -hint, chopped. Beans, too, make a good addition. 30 How to Cook Well. In fact the greater number of vegetables you have (all chopped) the more delicious the dish, as the flavor of all is blended together. Beef Roll. 2 or 3 cupf uls cold roast beef. 1 egg (well beaten). 4 tablespoonfuls powdered cracker. l teaspoonfuls salt. i saltspoonf ul pepper. 1 tablespoonf ul thyme, i tablespoonf ul sage. 1 table spoonful summer savory. 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, i cupful cold gravy. Mince the beef very fine. Mix in the egg and cracker, and then season. With floured hands shape like a round loaf. Put it in a pan. Wet the entire top with the melted butter. Pour the gravy around it. (If you have not enough gravy, add water.) Bake three quarters of an hour, basting it often with the gravy. When done, put on a hot platter, and pour the gravy around. If the gravy is too thin, set the pan on top of the stove. When it boils, dredge in a little flour, stirring well. Serve hot. Cut in slices at the table. St. Patrick's Pie. Butter a dish. Fill it two thirds full of minced meat of any kind. Pour a little gravy over it to moisten. Fill up the dish with mashed potato. Put lumps of butter over the top, dredge with flour, and set in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes to brown. A Ring of Meat. (A Swiss Dish.) Butter a pudding-dish. Invert a cup in the centre. Make a ring around it of cold meat, minced and seasoned with pepper, salt, and powdered herbs. Pour over it enough gravy or stock to moisten it well. Cover, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Then uncover, Breakfast. 31 in