GIFT OF THOMA* RlTUiF.RFORD BACON HOW TO COOK WELL BY J. ROSALIE BENTON With baked and boiled, and stewed and toasted. And fried and broiled, and smoked and roasted, We treat the town/* SALMAGUNDI. BOSTON D. LOTHROP AND COMPANY FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS . Copyright, 1886, by D. LOTHROP & COMPANY. TO MY LITTLK DAUGHTER MARGARET THIS BOOK 18 LOVINGLY DEDICATED 267912 PREFACE. IN the following collection of receipts some are entirely original ; many are contributed by friends ; others are well- known favorites which have stood the test of time ; and the rest are similar to those found in trustworthy cook books, but altered after trial, according to taste. To those who have generously given their choice receipts to add to the attractions of "I low to Cook Well," public ac- knowledgment and thanks are here rendered. The writer of this book has aimed not merely to give a collection of receipts, but to teach cooking, and also, by arranging departments for Breakfast, Luncheon, Dinner and Tea, to present suggestions to those housekeepers who find themselves taxed to make variety in the different meals. The style of cooking here given is for the most part suited to people of moderate means, and especial attention has been paid to showing how to use in a tempt- ing manner remnants from a former meal. The order of mixing and the time for cooking has been given with nearly every receipt, and after many of them the size of the family for which they are intended is stated. If the directions given in the book are carefully followed, the author has no fears for those who learn to cook by its aid, provided they have brains ! J^ 3 Study the General Directions, and read carefully the "Remarks" at the head of whatever you undertake to cook. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Explanatory Notes . General Directions . PAGB. 7 9 BREAKFAST .... 15 Cereals 16 Eggs 18 Meats for Breakfast . . 27 Fish " " . . 35 Miscellaneous Dishes . . 37 Vegetables for Breakfast 30 Breakfast and Tea Cakes . 45 Griddle Cakes, etc. . . . 56 LUNCHEON 64 Vegetables for Luncheon . 6G Miscellaneous Dishes . . 72 Pressed Meats .... 78 Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc. 82 Pates 91 Fritters 93 DINNER 100 Soup 100 Fish . . ^' . , t . . 117 Shell Fish 131 Salads . 141 PAGE. Stuffing, Gravy, Sauces, etc 147 Poultry, Game, etc. . . . 157 Meats 171 Stews 183 Meat Pies 188 Vegetables 190 DESSERTS 209 Pies 209 Puddings 226 Pudding Sauces .... 248 Delicacies for Dessert . 252 Ice Cream, etc 278 Candy 281 TEA 290 Bread 291 Yeast 313 Cake 316 Drinks ....*.. 348 Stewed and Baked Fruits, 355 Preserves and Jellies . . 359 Catsups and Pickles . . 375 For the Sick 383 Miscellaneous . . , 396 EXPLANATORY NOTES. THE measurements given in this book fire exact^ no deviation from them being allowed for. When the expression, one cupful or one teaspoon ful, is used, it means that the cup or spoon is to be filled even full. This is particularly to be remembered in connection with soda, for if the spoon is at all hea]>ed the rank taste and smell of the soda will be sure to spoil what otherwise might have been very good. In measuring soda the lumps should first be powdered ; then take up a heaping spoonful, and with the finger laid across the spoon in such a way as to touch both sides, carefully remove all that is superfluous, leaving a smooth, even teaspoonful. Soda must always, unless otherwise specified, be dissolved in a little wann water before mixing it with other compounds. Cream of tartar, on the contrary, should be put in dry and mixed with the flour. I have therefore put it next to flour in the lists of ingredients, and connected the two by a parenthesis to show that they go together. Where the quantity of flour is not mentioned definitely, mix the cream of tartar with a few spoonfuls of flour. Baking powder should be mixed in the same way. That used in this book is the Koyal. The only exception to the rule of exact measurements is in the case of butter. A cupful of butter should not be packed, but the butter should be put in loosely, in pieces. The cup used for measuring is always "the ordinary- sized kitchen coffee-cup, holding just half a pint. vii viii Explanatory Notes. Where a parenthesis occurs in a list, it shows that the ingredients connected by it are to be mixed together be- fore adding anything else. Where no directions are given for the order of mixing, no special order is necessary. In some places the direc- tions may seem needlessly minute, but they are not really so. It is only by attending carefully to apparent trifles that one can become a good cook. Wherever quotations-marks are used about a receipt or process in cooking, the reader should refer to the direc- tions for same as contained in this book. TABLE OF APPROXIMATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 1 qt. sifted flour, about . . . . 1 Ib. 1 qt. pulverized sugar . . 1 Ib. 7 oz. 1 qt. granulated sugar . . 1 Ib. 9 oz. 1 pt. closely packed butter 1 Ib. 1 tablespoonf ul butter, about . 1 oz. 10 eggs 1 Ib. 1 quart cornmeal . . . . 1 Ib. 2 oz. 4 cups sifted flour 1 Ib. RISING POWDER PROPORTIONS. 1 quart flour needs 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 1 quart flour needs 1 teaspoonful soda and 2 of cream tartar 1 cup sour milk needs i teaspoonful soda. TABLES OP WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Avoirdupois Weight. 16 ounces make one pound. I 4 quarters make one hundredweight. 25 pounds make one quarter. | 20 hundredweight make one ton. Liquid Measure. 4 gills make 1 pint. 2 pints make 1 quart. 4 quarts make 1 gallon. Dry Measure. 2 pints make 1 quart. 8 quarts make 1 peck. 4 pecks make 1 bushel. 6 quarts dry measure are nearly equal to 7 quarts liquid. 1 coffee-cup equals J pint, i a coffee-cup equals 1 gill. 10 flat tablespoon fuls equal 1 cupful. 4 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful. GENERAL DIRECTIONS. How to Boil. ALLOW plenty of water, unless the directions for some exceptional thing are given to the contrary. Do not al- low the water to boil down enough to expose to the air what you are cooking. If it should, fill up the j>ot grad- ually (so as not to check the boiling) with boiling water from the tea-kettle. Almost everything is better for be- ing boiled slowly (meat must be, to be tender), and the pot should be kept covered. Boiling must be continuous ; many things are ruined if the process stops even for a few minutes. This is especially the case with meat and pud- dings. How to Parboil. This is to boil anything till only half done. How to Boil in Lard. (The word fry is often applied to this process, but to fry is something quite different, as will be seen later.) Put into a rather deep kettle two or three pounds of lard. There should be enough to completely cover the article to be cooked. This ought not to be put in till the heat of the lard has been tested. Let it simmer (not boil fast), then throw in a bit of bread. If it browns directly, the fat is hot enough. If it burns, set the kettle on the back of the stove where the contents will cool down. If there is any danger of burning what you are cooking, throw into the fat a slice of raw potato. Cook Well. It is a good plan to have ready a large piece of soft, thick paper on which to lay for a moment the potatoes, or whatever you have cooked, as soon as taken out of the lard ; it will absorb any superfluous grease though if one takes pains to have the lard hot enough, the articles cooked in it will not be very greasy. This is a favorite way of cooking, and it is not extrava- gant if properly attended to. When you have finished using it, let the lard stand a few minutes, without boiling, to settle ; then strain it while still hot into a clean jar. When cold, cover tight, and set in a cold place. It can be used several times over for the same thing, and in fact other things may be cooked in it, unless it has been used for fish, or it has a strong, decided flavor from what has been boiled in it before. Beef suet tried out (see page 11) and salted, is as good as lard for this purpose, and cheaper. How to Pry. This is a process but little understood, though used ex- tensively by those who know least about cooking. The most necessary point is the one they will not attend to, and that is, to have the frying-pan and the grease hot when the thing to be fried is put in. Then, it will not be greasy. Use only enough fat to keep from burning what- ever is cooked in it. Butter, beef-dripping, lard and salt pork are all used for frying. The former does not give so rich a brown as the others, and is, beside, too costly for ordinary use. Beef-dripping is cheaper than lard, and just as good, if not better. Salt pork should be cut in rather thin slices, and taken out when the grease is extracted from it, before putting in what you wish to fry. Salt Pork is cheap, and gives a delicious flavor, peculiarly suitable to certain things, such as fish-balls. When you fry in it, do not use much salt in seasoning. General Directions. 11 How to Try out Fat or Suet. Save all the fat from beef, raw or cooked. Cut it in small pieces. Put it in a frying-pan with but just enough water to keep it from burning. Put it over a slow fire ; stir occasionally and let it all melt. Then simmer about five minutes. Throw in two or three slices of raw potato to clear it, and leave it five minutes more. Set it off the fire to settle ; then strain it into jars. When cold, cover tight, and set in a cold place. It will keep a long time if covered again every time you dip from it. ISeef suet chopped and freed from fibre, may be prepared in the same way. Some persons buy it for the purpose. It is both cheaper and more wholesome than lard. To Chop Suet. Cut it apart ; free it from strings, and scatter flour over it. Then chop very fine. The flour will prevent the pieces from adhering together. To Thicken with Flour. Rub a little flour to a smooth paste with enough cold water (or milk) to cover it. Pour it when smooth into the soup, or whatever you wish to thicken, when that is boiling. If these rules are not attended to the flour will lump. Corn starch should be treated in the same way. A little flour may be dredged into boiling liquor, with- out lumping, if sprinkled in slowly while stirring fast. If butter is to be added with the flour, it need not be moistened. Simply rub the flour and butter together and stir in. A better way, though more troublesome, is To Make a Roux. Put some butter in a pan. When it bubbles, sprinkle in dry flour. Stir briskly and constantly till the flour is 12 How to Cook Well. cooked, but do not let it brown (unless you want to color what you are cooking). Pour a little of the hot sauce on it, and mix well before stirring in to the whole. How to Egg-and-Crumb. Croquettes and other things' to be boiled in lard, or fried, are often prepared thus : Roll fine stale crackers or bread-crumbs. Then sift them on to a large plate. In another large plate have one or two eggs, beaten slightly and seasoned with a little pepper and salt (unless they are to be used for sweet- dishes) ; some persons add also one tablespoonful of cream or milk to each egg. Dip each croquette when ready, first into the crumbs, and roll it in them till every side is covered. Then roll it in the eggs, and then in the crumbs again. N. B. If you have yolks or whites of eggs left from making cake, use them for egg-and-crumbing. They will do just as well as whole eggs. KJ How to Broil. Heat and grease a gridiron. Never cook anything on a cold gridiron. Lay on the steak (or whatever it is) and cover with an inverted pan to keep in the heat and flavor. Turn often while cooking, but do not stick a fork into meat, or the juices will escape. Bo not add seasoning till you dish it. Fish and spring chicken should be dredged with flour before being placed on the gridiron. Put them with the inside toward the fire, first. Small things require to be cooked quickly over a clear, hot fire. Large thick things (unless you wish them rare inside, like beefsteak) should have a moderate heat at first, and the heat should be increased towards the last. General Directions. 13 If you cannot manage this, put the gridiron at first a good distance from the fire, and afterwards move it nearer. To Blanch Almonds. Shell the nuts, pour boiling water over them and let them stand a few minutes. Then remove the skins, which will slip off easily. Dry them in a towel. To Wash Currants. Zante currants are very dirty things. Put them in a pan, and pour scalding water over them. Shake them about and drain at once. Then pour on cold water. Rub hard between the hands and drain again. Then spread the currants on a towel laid open on a table. With another towel rub them dry. Pick over and spread on platters in the heater till perfectly dry. Then put into glass jars till wanted. Scatter flour over them before putting them in cake, to make sure of their not sinking to the bottom. To Stone Raisins. Pour boiling water over them and let them stand five or ten minutes. Drain and rub each raisin between the thumb and finger till the seeds come out clean. Dry the raisins before using, and rub them in flour before putting into cake, to prevent their sinking to the bottom. If chopped, flour should be scattered over them to prevent their adhering together. To Make a Meringue. Take the whites of as many eggs as you like; four will be enough to cover a large dish. Allow one half tablespoonful of sugar (pulverized is best) to each egg (if you use much sugar the meringue will be less light) ; and after beating them stiff, add the sugar. Beat only just 14- How to Cook Well enough to mix it in. Spread the meringue over a pudding or whatever you like, and set on the top shelf of the oven, which should be very hot. Watch it closely, for it will brown in a moment, and if not removed at once will burn. It should be only a yellow-brown, not a dark color. It is best served as soon as it is perfectly cold. BREAKFAST. REMARKS ON BREAKFAST. BREAKFAST ought to be made a very pleasant meal, be- ginning the day, as it does, after the family have been sep- arated for the night. Yet in how many families is it the custom to send off the master of the house to his daily round of business with an unsatisfied feeling after partak- ing of a hurried, uncomfortable meal, composed mainly of the remains of yesterday's dinner, warmed over in any way most easy to the cook, without seasoning, and alto- gether unpalatable. I am not finding fault with the materials for the break- fast, but with the manner of preparing and serving. By all means use at breakfast what is left from dinner of the day before, but cook it carefully, season it appetizingly, serve it prettily, and have it hot smoking hot, not merely warm. Give your cook to understand that she must be down in the morning in time to get ready the breakfast with as much care as she bestows upon the din- ner. Be down yourself at the moment of dishing it, to see to its being served temptingly. If summer, and your home is in the country, have al- ways a few flowers on the breakfast table, no matter what you do at other meals. Even a few daisies or clover blos- soms, with the dew still on them, lend a grace that is pleasing. If winter, have highly-colored fruit, if possible, such as oranges. If your purse cannot afford this, see 15 16 How to Cook Well that at least the silver is shining, the coffee-pot bright, and the table has an air of warmth and comfort. An aid to this is a red tablecloth in winter ; but be sure that it is clean and spotless. Do not allow it to be left on the table between meals, but substitute a different one for this purpose. DRINKS. (For Coffee, Tea, Cocoa, and Chocolate, see page 348.) CEREALS. Boiled Oatmeal. 1 cup oatmeaL 14 quarts cold water. li teaspoonfuls salt. Do not wash oatmeal. Put it on, with the water and salt, in a double-boiler and let it boil hard till all the water is absorbed. Stir only once, when it first begins to boil. It should boil as long as two hours, and it is therefore a good plan to cook it the afternoon before it is to be served. It can then easily be made hot for breakfast, adding a very little water. Oatmeal cooked in a hurry, with the kernels only half-swelled, is not fit for any human stomach. Eat hot with cream and sugar. For a family of five. What is left from breakfast may be used for " Oatmeal Griddle Cakes," or may be fried for tea. Boiled Hominy (fine). 1 cup hominy. li quarts boiling water. 2 even teaspoonfuls salt. Boil hard in a double boiler till the water is all absorbed. It may be one and one half hours, probably less. Serve hot, with cream, or butter and sugar. Breakfast. 17 What is left over, use for muffins, griddle cakes, hom- iny bread; or fry it as croquettes. Never throw away even a half-cupful of fine hominy, for the ways to use it are innumerable. Boiled Samp or Hominy (coarse). 4 cup hominy. 2 quarts boiling water. 1 toaspoonful Halt. Soak for two hours in cold water enough to cover it. Then add the boiling water and salt, and boil about three hours or until tender. Drain off the water when done and save it for a very delicate and delicious thickening for soup. (It is so rich that it will jelly when cold.) Serve the hominy hot, with cream and sugar. What is left, use for "Baked Hominy," for luncheon or tea. Corn Meal Hasty Pudding. Mix one pint corn meal with a little cold water and one teaspoonful of salt. Stir it into five quarts of water, boiling hard in a large iron pot. Let it boil about half an hour. Then stir in one cup more of meal (dry). From time to time, throw in a little more meal, taking care that it docs not get too thick. Taste it, to be sure that it is salt enough, and stir often to prevent burning. Boil fully one hour, and be sure that it is thoroughly done. Serve hot with butter and molasses, or milk and sugar. Use what is left for "Corn Bread" (using the h:isty pudding for part of the corn meal), or for "Fried Hasty Pudding." By adding eggs, a bit of butter, spice, molasses and milk you can make a good baked pudding. Graham Hasty Pudding. M.ike like Corn Meal Hasty Pudding, and serve hot with butter an-1 sugar, or milk. 18 How to Cook Well. Fried Hasty Pudding, Hominy and Oatmeal. These should be boiled the day before, and set away in a wet pan to stiffen. A deep, square pan is the best. Cut in half-inch slices and fry in lard or beef dripping until brown. The corn meal will take fully half an hour to brown. Serve hot with syrup or molasses. EGGS. Boiled Eggs. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Wash, and put each egg into the water with a tablespoon so as not to crack the shell. Be sure that the water more than covers the eggs and is not boiling too violently. Boil for three minutes if you like them soft ; twelve if hard. Another way of boiling eggs soft is to put them in an egg-dish or deep covered bowl. Pour over them water which you are quite sure is boiling (not simply hot), to take the chill off. Drain off this, and cover a second time with boiling water. Cover tight; set on the breakfast table and leave in the water about ten minutes. Boiled Eggs (French Style). Wash the eggs, and put them in a sauce-pan full of boil- ing water. Set the sauce-pan at once on a part of the stove where the water will keep as hot as possible^ without boil- ing. Leave the eggs in just ten minutes. This is the nicest way to boil them. Eggs left from breakfast may afterwards be boiled hard and used for various things, such as Convent Eggs, Baked Eggs a la Creme, Escalloped Eggs and Meat, Pressed Veal, and Egg Sauce ; or slice them for Spinach or Soup or to garnish a dish of fish. Rredkfast. 19 Poached or Dropped Eggs. Make sure your frying-pan is perfectly clean, as the least impurity will spoil the whiteness of the eggs. Pour into it boiling water. Hreak the eggs earefully into a plate, taking care that they do not run together, and that the yolks do not break. Take the frying-pan oft the stove and carefully slip the eggs from the plate upon the sur- face of the water. Put the frying-pan back on the stove and boil gently for three minutes, dipping the water oc- casionally over the top of the eggs. Have ready slices of buttered toast, on a hot platter. Take out the eggs with a perforated skimmer, and lay upon the toast. Sprinkle the yolks with pepper and salt. If only one or two eggs are to be poached, it is a good plan to put muffin-rings in the water, and break the eggs each into a ring. This will keep them nicely in shape. Poached Eggs with Sauce. 4 tablespoon fuls veal gravy. 4 tablespoonfuls cold water. 1 or 2 teaspoon fills good viiiegar. A little pepper and -alt . 4 ftfffs (yolks only). Some poached eggs. Put the first four ingredients into a stew-pan on the fire. While it is heating beat yolks of the eggs and " Poach " some eggs. When the mixture begins to boil, pour it upon the beaten yolks, stirring fast. Return it to the fire for a moment to thicken. Stir it every minute and do not leave it long enough to boil. Have ready the poached eggs in a platter. Pour the hot sauce over and garnish the dish with parsley. A Cheaper Sauce for Poached Eggs. Put half a nip of tailing water in a sauce-pan, with two or three large spoonfuls of nice, strained gravy of any 20 How to Cook 'Well. kind, a little pepper and one quarter teaspoon ful of salt. When it boils stir in a heaping teaspoonful of flour, wet smoothly with a little cold water. Stir and boil one min- ute, then add a tablespoonful of butter. Stir steadily two minutes longer, till thick as cream, and add, if you like, a little minced parsley, or chopped pickle. Eggs Poached in OIL {A New Orleans Receipt.) Olive oiL Eggs- Mushrooms, cooked and chopped. Onions, sliced fine. Capers. Parsley. Beef stock, or mushroom water. Put just enough olive oil in a skillet to cook the eggs one by one by tipping the pan. Drop each egg in whole. Cook till the white is " set." Then lay on a hot platter. When all are done, put into the oil a very little onion and fry brown. Add three mushrooms for each egg, a few capers, and a little parsley chopped very fine. Dredge in a sprinkling of flour, and add a little beefstock, or water from the mushroom can. Pepper and salt to tnste. Cook a moment, stirring constantly, and pour over the eggs. Pried Eggs. Put in a frying-pan one half tablespoonful of ham fat, lard or butter (the first is best). Drop the eggs one at a time, breaking them carefully so as not to let the yolk and white run together. Let them fry about three minutes. Take up and put on a hot platter, draining off all the grease you can. Ham and Eggs. Cut two thin slices of ham, either raw or boiled, and take off the rind, but leave on some of the fat. If the ham is very salt, pour hot water over it, but do not leave it to Breakfast. 21 soak. Wipe the slices dry, and put into a hot frying-pan (not greased). Move these occasionally in the pan so that they will not burn, and turn them in about two minutes. Lay on a hot platter when thoroughly done, and keep hot while you drop four eggs (broken carefully) into the fat which remains in the frying-pan. Leave them about two minutes to fry, then put them on the ham ; two eggs to each slice of ham. Baked Eggs. Butter an earthen plate. Into it drop carefully one egg at a time (keeping the yolk whole) till the plate is full ; the eggs being side by side, as for poached eggs. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a bit of butter on each. Set in a very hot oven, and bake about three minutes, until they are " set." Baked Eggs a la Crime. 12 eggs boiled hard. A cup fresh bread crumbs, f 1 pound butter. 1 1 large tablespoon ful flour. Chopped parsley (may be omitted). 1 cup cream (milk will do). Pepper and salt. i of a small ouion, chopped. Butter a deep pudding-dish and sprinkle with a few of the crumbs. Then slice each egg into six pieces. Put a layer of these, then of crumbs, etc., till the dish is filled. Rub the butter and flour together till smooth. Put them in a sauce-pan and add the other things. Give them one hard boil, stirring well, and pour over the eggs. Cover the top of the dish with crumbs, and set in a very hot oven to brown quickly. Serve in the same dish. This makes a large dishful ; enough for eight persons or more. Escaloped Eggs and Meat. Wet bread or cracker crumbs thoroughly with milk. Put a layer of them in a deep buttered dish. Then put 22 How to Cook Well a layer of cold hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices, and spread with butter ; pepper and salt. Then have a layer of chicken, veal, or ham (finely minced). Repeat. Have crumbs on top. Dot with butter and pour over all half a cupful of milk. Bake in a hot oven till well heated through, no longer. This is an economical and tempting dish. It is nice for breakfast, luncheon or tea. Another with Raw Eggs. i cup soaked crumbs. Any kind cold meat, minced. A little minced parsley. 3 tablespoonfuls cream. 1 tablcspoonf ul butter, melted. Pepper, and a pinch of salt. 6 eggs, well beaten. Butter a small, deep pudding-dish. Line the bottom and sides with the crumbs, which should be quite moist. Then put in the meat, moistened with water, and mixed with the parsley (this may be omitted). Set in a very hot oven, covered tight, till smoking hot. Do not leave it in long, or it will get dry. While it is heating beat the eggs light and stir the cream and butter into them. Sea- son and pour the mixture upon the hot meat. Put the dish back in the oven, uncovered, and leave it a few min- utes until the eggs are " set." Serve immediately. Scrambled Eggs. Break the eggs into a dish. Do not beat them. Put a piece of butter- in a pan, and when it is hot pour the eggs in. Stir with a fork, without stopping, about three minutes, having the pan over the hottest part of the fire. As soon as the eggs are cooked set the pan back ; add pepper and salt, and dish at once, either on "Dipped Toast " or in a covered dish. Another Way. 1 egg, yolk and white separate. I h saltspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonf ul milk. I Butter in frying-pan. Allow this amount for each person. Put the butter in* a frying-pan to heat, having the amount regulated by the Breakfast. 23 number of eggs you mean to use. Beat the yolks and add the milk and salt. Pour these in with the butter when hot. As soon as they begin to thicken, j>our in the whites (not beaten at all). Do not stir them till they begin to look "set," then mix gently with the yolks, using a fork. Do not allow them to remain an instant after this, or they will be sj>oiled. Serve hot on buttered toast, moistened slightly. Fried Omelet (No. 1). To each person allow two eggs ; and to each egg allow one tablespoonful of milk, a pinch of pepper and half a saltspoonful of salt. Beat yolks and whites separately, adding the milk and seasoning to the yolks. Put a tablc- s] MM .11 ful of butter into a frying-pan. Watch it; it must not burn, but simply become hot. When this is the case, quickly and lightly add the stiff whites to the l>eaten yolks (not before), and pour all together into the frying-pan. Do not let this be too hot. This is the great danger in making omelets. An omelet should cook gently for ten minutes, to be tender and delicately browned. Do not stir it at all, but keep slipping a knife carefully under the batter to prevent its sticking. Also shake the pan con- stantly and gently. As it thickens on the edges begin to roll it up (carefully) in the pan, letting the liquid batter from the top run over to the further side of the pan, where it will stiffen in time to be rolled up in its turn. Heal dexterity is required to do this handsomely, which can only be attained by practice. A beginner had better first try making small omelets, which require to be folded over, simply. Serve an omelet hot, and eat before it falls. Fried Omelet (No. 2). If you have not as many eggs as you wish, allow half a tablespoonful of powdered cracker-crumbs to each egg. It is, in any <-n.sc, a pleasant addition, and makes the omelet very light. 24 How to Cook Well. Cream Omelet. 3 eggs. tablespoonfuls corn starch. cup milk. 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 1 teaspoon! ul salt. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and add them to the yolks, previously well beaten with the corn starch and salt. Beat all together thoroughly and add the milk. Put the butter in the frying-pan, and when melted pour in the mixture. Cover and place where it will brown, but not burn. Cook about seven minutes. Fold, turn on a hot dish and pour " Cream Sauce " around it. Enough for five persons. Ham Omelet. Make like either of the "Fried Omelets," mixing through the yolks and milk, a little minced boiled ham. Or, pour part of the batter into the frying-pan, then put in a layer of the ham and cover with the batter. Beef may be used instead of ham, though it is not so nice. Tomato Omelet. 6 eggs, beaten light. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 4 tomatoes, chopped fine. Pepper and salt. I i tablespoonf ul butter. To the beaten eggs add the flour, previously rubbed with the butter. Then beat in the tomatoes, season and fry like " Fried Omelet." French Omelet. 1 cup boiling milk. Butter the size of an egg. 1 scant cupful bread-crumbs, fine and soft. 6 eggs, yolks and whites sepa- rate. Pepper and salt. Pour the boiling milk over the butter and crumbs. When cool add the yolks of the eggs, beaten light. Beat well. Just before frying, mix in lightly the beaten whites Breakfast. 25 and add seasoning. Fry in butter. See "Fried Omelet." This will make two large omelets, each sufficient for five persons. Baked Omelet. 1 pint of hot milk, or less. $ table-spoonful melted butter. 1 teaspoon ful salt 2 teaspoon fills flour. 3 eggs, beaten light To the hot milk add the butter. To the eggs add the salt and the flour (rubbed to a paste with a spoonful of cold milk). Pour the hot milk ujxm this mixture, stirring quickly. Pour into a buttered pudding-d'sh (which should be slightly warmed) and bake in a quick oven fifteen min- utes. Serve before it falls. Convent Eggs. 4 hard-boiled eggs. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 onion, sliced flue. 2 teaspoon fills flour, wet to a paste. Salt and pepper. 1 cup milk. Shell the eggs, cut into six slices each. Put the butter into the frying-pan, and when it melts and is very hot add the onion and fry till tender, but not until it browns. Mix in the milk. When it boils add the flour, stirring until it forms a sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Put in the eggs, and when they are thoroughly heated serve at once on hot toast. Stirred Eggs with Gravy. 1 dessert-spoonful butter. I 4 cupful gravy. eggs, not beaten. | Pepper and salt Melt the butter in a pan, over a very hot fire. Then break in the eggs. Add gravy and seasoning and stir quickly and constantly from the bottom. It should cook only one or two minutes. Have ready a platter covered with slices of hot toast. Pour the mixture on the toast and serve at once. Poultry gravy is best, though any 26 How to Cook Well. kind will do. A little grated cheese stirred in just before serving is an improvement, as is also a little anchovy paste spread on the toast. Curried Eggs and Toast. 1 dessertspoonful butter. A pinch of salt. i teaspoon ful curry paste, or powder. A pinch of cayenne pepper. 1 dessertspoonful milk. 2 hard-boiled eggs. Melt the butter in the frying-pan. Add the salt and pepper, the curry and milk. Stir well. Mash fine the contents of the eggs, and add them. Simmer very gently until it thickens. Stir constantly, that it may not curdle. Do not let it get too thick. Serve on buttered toast. N. B. If curry-powder is used, put in a little more but- ter and milk, or it will be too dry. Devilled Eggs. Remove the shells from cold, hard-boiled eggs. Cut in halves, and pare a small slice off the bottom, so that each half will stand alone. Take out the yolks. Rub them to a paste with a little melted butter and a few drops of vinegar. Season with a pinch of cayenne-pepper, salt and mustard. Fill the whites with the paste. Cover a plate with young lettuce leaves or parsley, and serve the eggs on it, for a hot summer morning's breakfast. These are very nice for picnics, or for a luncheon or supper table. Stuffed Eggs. Boil the eggs hard; cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the yolks, which mash well, adding a little finely minced onion, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Mash also double the quantity of bread, previously soaked in cream. Mix the yolks, bread, onion, parsley, and season- ing together, and stir into them the raw yolk of an egg. Taste, to see if they are properly seasoned. Stuff the Breakfast. 27 whites with this mixture, so that each half-egg lias the appearance of containing a whole yolk. Smooth the re- mainder of the mixture on the bottom of a pie-dish. Arrange the halves symmetrically in this bed and brown slightly in a very hot oven. MEATS FOR BREAKFAST. REMARKS. In warming over cold meat and bringing it to the table under various attractive forms a real art is hidden. Hut do not despise learning it. You will be repaid by the absence of the greasy, unappetizing preparations which too often appear on otherwise well-appointed tables. All kinds of meat can lie wanned over. Even the little boiled on a soujvlnme should not l>c thrown away. Meat which has been already cooked should be made merely hot, not re-cooked until all the goodness is gone out of it. In preparing hash, etc., be careful to remove all gristle and fat. Pay great attention to seasoning nicely, and make as much variety as jM>ssible. Apropos of this (for I know how hard it is to use up a large roast of meat, when the family consists of only two persons, perhaps) here is a list of Ways to Use up a Roast of Meat. Plain hash (with potato). St. Patrick's pie. Breakfast dish of cabbage. A summer medley. An appetizing breakfast dish. Casserole rice and meat. Mousaka. Dolmath6s. Breakfast turnovers. It will be seen that any of the first five dishes can be used a second time, for any that follow. Meat warmed in slices. Mlroton. Cold meat stew. Minced, hashed. A ring of meat Ham omelet (using beef). Escallo}>ed eggs and meat. Meat balls, or croquettes, hash. 28 now to Cook Well. Hash. Hash can be varied in a number of ways. Remove all fat and gristle from cold meat, and chop it very fine if to be used without potato, coarser, if with. Chop the pota- toes separately, using rather more potato than meat. Have ready in a hot frying-pan a little gravy, milk, or water and butter. Put in the hash, with salt and pepper. Stir and toss every moment till of a good consistency and smoking hot. Then serve at once. All hash should be cooked over a very hot fire. Browned Hash Is prepared as above, using mutton, corned beef or ham, and mashed potato if you like. Instead of warming it in gravy, put a lump of beef-dripping (or other fat) in the pan and brown on the under side without stirring. When crisp and brown, serve bottom side up on a hot platter. If corned beef is used, a little chopped red pepper may be added ; with ham, a little mustard. Minced Hash. This is fine hash, without potato. Stir while heating it, and serve on dipped toast. This should be seasoned with especial care. A little catsup, " Claret Syrup " or "Stewed Tomato" is a pleasant addition. If veal is used add mace, sage and a little chopped celery. If beef a little marjoram. Poultry Hash Is made like minced hash. Mix with it the stuffing, and add, if you have any, the remains of oysters cooked in any way, and chopped, or a little " Boiled Rice " may be used. Vary it by adding curry powder. Baked Hash. Mince fine any kind of cold meat, and season it well. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, in layers with crumbs of bread or cracker, having the layers of meat about twice as Breakfast. 29 thick as the crumbs. Pour half a cupful of gravy, milk, or water (or more if the dish is large) over all. Cover with dots of butter, and bake in a very hot oven till brown. Put layers of tomato or rice (cooked) in place of crumbs, for a change. If you use tomato a little ground cloves is a good addition. Veal treated thus is excellent. Baked Hash With Eggs. Mince fine any kind of cold meat. Season well. Put it in a shallow buttered pudding-dish, grate stale bread crumbs on top, and moisten the whole by pouring over it a little cold gravy, or milk (water will do). Set the dish in a very hot oven, and as soon as it is warm, break sev- eral eggs (whole) over the top in such a way as not to break the yolks. Sprinkle with salt and pepj>er, and leave in the oven till the eggs are "set," f. e., keep their shape. Another way is to make a mixture as for fried omelet. Pour it over the meat and set in a hot oven till just cooked through. This should IKJ eaten before it falls. These arc good ways to "help out" a small amount of meat. An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. Butter a pudding-dish and till with the following mixt- ure: Rare meat, minced very fine, enough to fill the dish half-full ; half as much boiled rice, and one half as much tomato, cooked in any way. Mix all together, add a bit of butter, melted, and season highly with salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, and ground cloves. Taste a little to be sure of the seasoning Fill the pudding-dish, pour one cupful of gravy, or water, over all, and bake in a very hot oven till brown. This is of course as economical as deli- cious, all the requisite ingredients being " left over." What is left of this mix into soup. The same mixture is delicious baked in patty-pans, or it may be fried like meat balls. This is much improved by adding a slice or two of cooked i -hint, chopped. Beans, too, make a good addition. 30 How to Cook Well. In fact the greater number of vegetables you have (all chopped) the more delicious the dish, as the flavor of all is blended together. Beef Roll. 2 or 3 cupf uls cold roast beef. 1 egg (well beaten). 4 tablespoonfuls powdered cracker. l teaspoonfuls salt. i saltspoonf ul pepper. 1 tablespoonf ul thyme, i tablespoonf ul sage. 1 table spoonful summer savory. 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, i cupful cold gravy. Mince the beef very fine. Mix in the egg and cracker, and then season. With floured hands shape like a round loaf. Put it in a pan. Wet the entire top with the melted butter. Pour the gravy around it. (If you have not enough gravy, add water.) Bake three quarters of an hour, basting it often with the gravy. When done, put on a hot platter, and pour the gravy around. If the gravy is too thin, set the pan on top of the stove. When it boils, dredge in a little flour, stirring well. Serve hot. Cut in slices at the table. St. Patrick's Pie. Butter a dish. Fill it two thirds full of minced meat of any kind. Pour a little gravy over it to moisten. Fill up the dish with mashed potato. Put lumps of butter over the top, dredge with flour, and set in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes to brown. A Ring of Meat. (A Swiss Dish.) Butter a pudding-dish. Invert a cup in the centre. Make a ring around it of cold meat, minced and seasoned with pepper, salt, and powdered herbs. Pour over it enough gravy or stock to moisten it well. Cover, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Then uncover, Breakfast. 31 in<l brown quickly. Remove the cup, and servo in the same dish. There will be a pool of gravy in the centre, with a ring of meat around. Hidden Hash; Make same as "Meat Balls," but when dished, cover each one with a layer of hot apple sauce or cranberry sauce one inch thick. Breakfast Turnovers. Boil and mash six or eight potatoes. While hot, season, add one or two eggs (beaten) and just flour enough to enable you to roll the potato out on a breadboard about half an inch thick. Cut into rounds with a saucer. Spread each one with melted butter. Cover half of each with a layer of any kind of cold meat minced fine and seasoned nicely. Fold over the potato nearly one half so as to cover the meat. Fry to a light brown in good beef drip- ping, or bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Toast Sandwiches. Cut a thick slice of bread for each person. Cut into rounds with a large biscuit cutter. Toast them nicely; butter while hot. On each round put a layer of hot minced meat (beef, mutton, or veal) seasoned well. On this lay a " Poached Egg." Serve on a platter. Both for this and the last receipt but little meat is re- quired. Tough Beefsteak Can be made palatable in this way : Mince it fine, and put it in a sauce-pan with enough water to cover it. Sim- mer gently for half an hour; then stir in a lump of but- ter, and dredge in a little flour and a sprinkling of pepper and salt. Add also tomato catsup, or stewed tomato if you like it. Serve in a covered dish. (See also JJ- t' Stew.) 32 How to Cook Well Breakfast Bacon. Cut in rather thin slices, and pare off the skin. Lay in a hot frying-pan, not greased, and fry till nicely browned on both sides. Serve on a hot platter with mashed potato balls or rice balls laid around the edges. Save the fat that remains in the pan to fry potatoes. Fried Ham. (See " Ham and Eggs.") When thoroughly done lay on a hot platter and serve in the gravy. This goes well with rice balls or mashed potato balls. Sliced Ham, Dressed. Cut raw ham into slices ; soak in scalding water a quar- ter of an hour. Then drain and squeeze dry. Lay the slices in a frying-pan. Pepper each and spread with a little made mustard. Pour into the frying-pan half a tea- spoonful of vinegar to each slice. Fry over a very hot fire, turning often. When tender lay the slices on a hot platter. Add to the gravy a wineglassful of wine (may be omitted) and one teaspoonful of sugar. Boil up once and pour over the ham and serve. Sausages. If the sausages are in skins prick each one with a fork. Lay them in a dry frying-pan, as they are too fat to re- quire any grease to brown them. Cover the pan and let it heat gradually. If they cook too fast they will not be done in the middle. Turn them often and brown every side. Three quarters of an hour will be none too long to cook them. Be careful that they do not burn. If you choose, fry slices of bread in the fat which remains after taking up the sausages. Serve on the platter with them. Always serve apple sauce with sausages. Save the fat from frying sausages. It is very nice to fry potatoes in, and also can be used for gingerbread instead of lard. Breakfast. 33 Baked Sausages. Put in the oven in a baking-tin, turning when necessary, just as if you were frying them. Brown them well ; they are less greasy than if fried, and are more delicate in every way. Apples in some form are always a good accompani- ment to sausages. Stewed Kidneys. Soak in cold water half an hour. Skin them, and stew slowly in just enough cold water to cover them. When done, thicken the gravy with flour, add salt and pepper, and dish. Wine is an improvement, added at the last. Kidneys should be used at once ; they do not keep well. Boiled Lambs' Tongues. These are easily obtained in the country, and are a del- icacy that ought to be better known, lie sure to order enough, for lambs' tongues are very small. Wash, and boil them slowly in cold water, salted, for nearly two hours, skimming the water when necessary. Boil with them a spoonful of minced carrot, if you like the flavor. When tender, skin them, and lay them on a hot platter. Thicken a pint of the liquor that remains in the pot, with half a cupful of flour. Sprinkle in pepper, and pour over the tongue. Garnish with slices of hard boiled egg and lemon. These are nice simply boiled and served cold for tea. Lambs' Hearts. In buying, allow one heart to every two persons. Be sure to get the hearts fresh, and use them as soon as pos- sible, for they do not keep long. Never soak them, as some do. Wash well and boil slowly in enough warm water to cover them, for about one hour, till tender. I'r-MMvd as with lambs' tongues, but add to the sauce a little tomato catsup, stewed tomato, or lemon-juice, as an improvement. This is a cheap and good breakfast di>h. 34 How to Cook Well. Cold Meat Stew. Cut cold roast beef or mutton into quite small pieces. Put on to stew with enough cold water and gravy to cover it. Do not let it boil fast. When well heated through add a few tablespoonfuls of catsup, or a little Worcestershire sauce, or a few whole cloves, and salt and pepper. Take out the meat and keep it hot while you thicken the broth if necessary by dredging in a little flour. Pour over the meat and serve hot. If the meat has a bone in it boil that with the stew till the entire substance is extracted. Then take it out. Add a minced onion if you like, or sliced cold potatoes. Meat Warmed in Slices. Put cold gravy into a shallow pan. Set on the stove. When it comes to the boil add boiling water and season nicely with spices, burnt sugar, catsup, or anything you like. Lay in pieces of meat cut in rather thick slices. Do not boil them, but simply heat very hot. Serve in a platter, the gravy poured over. Or, warm the meat in gravy without any special seasoning, and lay "Baked To- matoes " around the edge of the dish, or " Baked Onions." Miroton, Put into a frying-pan a large lump of butter. Fry in it six onions sliced. When tender add thin slices of cold roast beef. When these are hot add a little broth or gravy, pepper and salt. Boil up once and serve. Warmed-over Chicken or Turkey. Cut all the meat from the bones of cold chickens. Put the bones on to stew in a little water. Have the sauce- pan covered. Take out the bones when the goodness is all extracted (in half an hour). Add the cold gravy ; put in the chicken, cut into small pieces ; add the stuffing, and a little cold "Boiled Rice" (if you have it). Chop Breakfast. 35 a little celery and add that with a little salt. Let all stew gently for ten minutes. In the meantime toast a few thick slices of bread. Lay them in a platter. Spread each one thickly with cranberry sauce or simply moisten with gravy from the chicken. Pour the chicken over the toast and serve hot. (The rice, celery and sauce may be omitted.) Frizzled Beef. Shave very thin slices of dried beef ; put them into a sauce-pan, with one cup of milk. Boil gently a few min- utes, then add a teaspoonful of butter and one egg beaten with two teagpoonfulfi of flour. Stir well. (Add nioro milk if needed.) Veal aux Pommes. Butter the bottom and sides of a sauce-pan. Cut cold (or raw) veal in thin slices. Pare and core some apples, and quarter them. Have about one third apple to two thirds meat; Put together into the sauce-pan, with pepper and salt. Cover tight, and stew till tender (about half an hour). If the apples are very dry, add a very little water. Beef may be used instead of veal. In that case add also a little minced onion. Serve covered. FISH. Canned Salmon on Toast. Take off the top of the can. Set it in a kettle of boil- ing water to become very hot. Have ready slices of hot toast on a platter. Pick the fish into shreds. Lay it over the toast (previously moistened), and sprinkle with a few drops of lemon or vinegar. Arrange tastefully with parsley if you have it. A more elaborate dish is to pour plenty of drawn butter over the fish on toast, and if in season garnish the dish with lettuce leaves all around the How to Cook Well. edges. Have the stems covered by the toast, and help to each person with the toast. What fish is left will make good sandwiches. Pince of Canned Salmon, i can of salmon. 1 quart of milk. 1 tablespoonf ul of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 1 teaspoonf ul of salt. 1 saltspoonf ul of pepper. Remove the oil, skin and bones from the salmon. Boil the milk. Rub the butter into the flour, and stir into the boiling milk. Season with the salt and pepper, and add the salmon broken into bits. When heated it is ready to serve. Canned Salmon Baked. 1 can of salmon. i cupful of fine, soft bread- crumbs. 1 tablespoonf ul of melted but- ter. Pepper and salt. 3 or 4 eggs, beaten light. Pick the salmon fine, and mix it with the bread- crumbs ; add the eggs, melted butter and seasoning ; put into a buttered pudding dish or into gem pans ; set in a pan of hot water and bake twenty minutes at longest in a hot oven. Serve hot, with or without "Lobster" or " Oyster Sauce." If baked in gem-pans, turn them out on a platter, and pour the sauce over. Codfish Puff. Make a mixture as for " Codfish Balls." Put into a but- tered earthen plate, and smooth over the top. Cover with bits of butter, and bake in a very hot oven till brown (about ten minutes). Serve in the same dish. Stewed Codfish (salt). Put to soak one pound salt cod at about six in the af- ternoon in cold water. In about three hours pour off this water, and cover with warm. Leave it on the stove over Breakfast. 37 night, where it will keep hot, but not boil. In the morn- ing change the water for that which is boiling. Boil very slowly for half an hour (if it boils fast it will get tough and hard, and smell disagreeably). Take out the fish ; with a knife and fork, pick it into shreds, removing all the bones. Then make the sauce. Take one cup of the water in which the fish was boiled ; add to it one and a half cupfuls of milk; let this come to a boil ; add a pinch of salt, and half a cupful of flour, rubbed to a paste with a little cold milk. Stir until thick, and add a beaten egg, stirring fast, so as not to curdle. (This may be omitted.) Put the fish into the sauce and let it get hot, not boil, stir- ing all the time to prevent the egg from curdling. Pour into a platter, and garnish it with slices of hard-boiled eggs. What is left over may be used for codfish balls with the addition of mashed potato. Broiled Salt Mackerel. Put to soak in cold water more than twenty-four hours beforehand ; change the water a great many times. Wipe the fish dry ; dredge with flour, and lay on a hot buttered gridiron with the inside down. Broil ovet hot coals for ten minutes ; then turn, and broil the other side. When tender lay on a hot platter. Serve with or without "Drawn Butter" or "Sauce Piquant" poured over. Boiled Salt Mrckerel. Soak as above. Boil in a cloth or fish-kettle, and serve with sauce as above. MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. Fried Apples. Peel and slice five or six sour apples, not very thin. Have- ready in a frying-pan several thin pieces of salt pork fried to a crisp. Put in the apples and fry over a slow 38 How to Cook Well. fire, stirring occasionally, and taking care not to let them become mushy by too hot a fire or too frequent stirring. Serve hot, with meat; or eat with cream and sugar. Apples that are too dry for anything else are good pre- pared in this way. Baked Apples. See page 356. Early apples, baked, make a refreshing addition to a breakfast on the hot mornings we sometimes have in early autumn. And in winter, they are exceed- ingly wholesome, served hot, with brown sugar. Baked Beans. Wash one pint of pea or navy beans, and put to soak over night in one quart of cold water. In the morning, drain off the water; pour boiling water over them, and let them stand covered, until the water is cold. Drain again, and put in a bean-pot, or pudding-dish. Then add two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of soda (dissolved). The soda is to prevent any evil effects from eating them. Stir all together gently and fill up the pot with boiling water. (There should be enough to much more than cover the beans, which should not be allowed to dry up enough to need stirring, as that would spoil their shape.) Put a quarter of a pound of salt pork in the middle of the beans, pressing it down a little. Cover the pot, and leave it in a slow oven for several hours, until the water is all absorbed, and the beans are tender. It is the custom in Boston to leave them in the oven all night, and to have them on the break- fast table every Sunday morning, with "Boston Brown Bread." Enough for a family of seven. What is left of baked beans use for " Tomato and Bean Soup." An- other way, but not so good, is to parboil the beans (after soaking them) with the salt pork. Then bake them. Breakfast. 39 Macaroni with Oysters. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, layers of boiled mac- aroni and oysters. Put bits of butter and pepper and salt on each layer of oysters. Pour over all one cupful of cream or milk and bake in a hot oven, with grated bread- crumbs on top, for fifteen minutes. Ham and Macaroni. Put into a buttered pudding-dish cold or hot boiled mac- aroni, in layers, with minced ham. Put on each layer of macaroni bits of butter and grated cheese. Season the ham with a little mustard or finely chopped onion. Beat one egg, and mix with one cupful of milk. Pour over all, and bake in a very quick oven for ten minutes. VEGETABLES. Baked Potatoes. Wash large, smooth potatoes of about the same size. Bake in a moderately hot oven for alx>ut one hour. Turn them three or four times, so that they will be evenly done. Eat at once. Cold baked potatoes may be warmed over by plunging into cold water, and then laying them for ten minutes in a very hot oven. The only other way to use them over successfully is for ** Potato Rechauffee." Baked Sweet Potatoes. Clioose potatoes of a uniform size, and wash them. Put into a dripping-pan with half a cupful of cold water, allow- ing fully one hour to bake. Bake in a moderate oven till soft, turning frequently. Do not add more water. Boiled sxvcet potatoes are not fit to eat, but they may be par- boiled and then baked. Grate what are left for " Sweet P..i:ito 1 'lidding or Pie." 40 How to Cook Well. Stuffed Potatoes. Bake Irish potatoes as above. When just done cut off one end of each, and carefully scoop out the inside in such a way as not to break the skins. Mash the potato through a sieve ; add salt, butter, a little milk and grated cheese (be sure to put in enough cheese to give a decided flavor). Fill the potato skins with this mixture. Heap them full, and do not put on the covers. Put back into the oven, which should be very hot, until thoroughly heated. N. B. These are improved by adding to the mixture the beaten yolk or white of an egg, and using cream instead of milk. The cheese may be omitted if it is not liked. Pried Potatoes. Put into a frying pan a large tablespoonful of lard, beef dripping or ham-fat (that from sausages is very good). Have ready cold boiled potatoes cut into small slices or chopped coarsely. When the grease in the pan is very hot, put in the potatoes and brown quickly, or they will be greasy. Stir occasionally, adding more grease if they are likely to burn. A few minutes before serving add plenty of salt and pepper. Be careful not to use too much grease, and not to put in the potatoes till it is hot^ for a dish of greasy fried potatoes is revolting. Another Way is as follows : Slice cold boiled pota- toes lengthwise into even, thick slices, and fry in any kind of fat but butter, as that will not brown them well. When the fat is very hot, dredge the slices with flour, and lay them in side by side. As each one browns on one side turn it on the other. Do not stir them together. Pepper and salt plentifully, and dish neatly. A pretty way is to lay them around minced hash on a platter. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Put into a frying-pan a large tablespoonful of butter. When very hot, add half a small onion (minced very fine). Breakfast. 41 Do not put in more than this, there should be only a suspicion of onion. Cut into dice six cold boiled potatoes. Add them to the frying onion, after a moment, and fry to a delicate brown. Season shortly before serving with chopped parsley (this is essential), pepper and salt. Fry quickly, so that they will not be greasy, and serve as soon as done, so that they will not dry out. Fried Sweet Potatoes. Slice cold parboiled potatoes lengthwise, into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and fry to a delicate brown in dripping, lard or butter. Cold baked sweet potatoes should be chopped coarsely and fried quickly in plenty of butter. Broiled Potatoes. Use either cold boiled or parboiled potatoes. Cut them in slices half an inch thick, put them in a wire gridiron and broil over hot coals till well browned on both sides. Sea- son with pepper and salt, lay in a hot platter, and put a Ml of butter on each slice. Stewed Potatoes with Gravy. Cut into cubes cold boiled potatoes. Put into a sauce- pan with cold gravy of any kind. Season with salt and pepper. Stew gently for ten minutes. Do not stir much for fear of spoiling the shape of the potatoes. Stewed Potatoes with Milk. Pare raw potatoes. Cut into thick slices. Soak in cold water half an hour. Stew in enough cold water to cover them, till tender (about fifteen minutes). Do not let them boil fast enough to break. Drain off all the water. Pour on milk enough to nearly cover them ; add salt and when it boils again a large lump of butter (rubbed with an equal quantity of flour), and a little pepper. Let it boil till it thickens. Serve in a covered dish. 42 How to Cook WeU. Potato Bechauffee. Cut cold boiled or baked potatoes in small cubes. Have ready in a sauce-pan as much milk as you think will nearly cover them. To each pint of milk take half a cupful of flour. Rub the flour smooth in a little cold milk, and when that in the sauce-pan boils, pour it in. Stir while it thickens ; add salt and pepper, and a large lump of but- ter. Then put in the potatoes. When they all come to a boil pour into a covered dish, and serve. Potatoes and Cream. Mince cold boiled or baked potatoes. Put them into a hot frying-pan. Season with pepper and salt and pour over them enough cream to nearly cover tEem. Let them come to a boil, and serve hot in a covered dish. Potato Snow. While hot, rub "Mashed Potatoes" through a colander into the dish in which they are to be served. Serve very hot. This is a pretty dish. Potato Puff. Moisten with hot milk cold ' Mashed Potato." Beat it till smooth. Butter an earthen plate or platter. Put the potato into it, mounding it up high. Cover the entire top with melted butter, and dredge it with flour. With a knife mark the top off into diamonds, and set into the oven, which should be very hot. When brown (in ten minutes or so) serve in the same dish. It is an improve- ment to add to the potato two eggs beaten light. Cucumbers (raw). Keep the cucumbers on ice till wanted. Peel them, and slice thin, beginning at the blossom end, or else they Breakfast. 43 will be bitter. Pour over them a little vinegar, with a sprinkling of salt and pepper and set on ice till the last moment before serving. Some slice with them a raw onion. Fried Onions with Eggs. Peel and quarter eight onions, and soak in cold water for awhile. Then put them in a frying-pan with a little water and one cupful of pork gravy (or a little lard). Scatter one tablespoonful of salt over all. Cover, and cook till tender. Then uncover, and cook fast till brown. Beat six eggs, and stir them in. Serve hot in a covered dish. (A North Carolina dish.) Fried Cabbage. Melt a lump of butter in a frying-pan. When very hot, stir in some cold, boiled cabbage, well seasoned with but- ter, pepper and salt, and moistened with a little cream or milk. Stir till the whole is hot, then leave it to brown a few moments. Serve hot in a platter, the brown side up|>cr- most. A beaten egg stirred in with the cabbage is an im- provement. Fried Cucumbers. Take large cucumbers just ripe, but not old. Pare them, cut into thick slices (half an inch). Scrape out the seeds if large. Lay them in ice-water for half an hour. Then wipe each piece dry. Dredge with flour, and lay in a hot frying-pan in which is a large tablespoon- ful of beef-dripping or lard. Fry slowly at first, so that they will be done through. At the end of half an hour, ]c]jer and salt them and turn them. Increase the heat, prpper and salt the other side, and fry fifteen minutes I'Mi-w, till tender enough to pierce with a straw. If there is danger of burning add more grease while cooking. 44 How to Cook Well Tomatoes (raw). With a sharp knife cut tomatoes into thick slices with- out removing the skin. Lay them in a glass dish. Put bits of ice on them, and set them in a cold place till the last moment before serving. Be careful to do this, for a flabby piece of tomato is not inviting. Cover with vinegar at the last moment, pepper and salt bountifully and serve. If you choose serve instead with tomato salad dressing. If served without vinegar or dressing save what toma- toes are left for " Fried Tomatoes." Fried Tomatoes (No. 1). 1 egg, beaten light with 1 cupful cold milk. 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. Salt and pepper. Beat hard. Into this dip thick slices of raw tomato with the skin on. Put in a hot frying-pan with a large lump of butter or beef-dripping. Fry slowly till tender and brown. Escalloped Tomatoes. Butter a deep pudding-dish. Put in a layer of cracker- crumbs or stale bread-crumbs. Then a layer of tomatoes (thickly sliced) with pepper and salt ; and a layer of crumbs with bits of butter. Repeat in this order till the dish is full, having the top layer of the crumbs. Moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of water. Bake in a rather hot oven half an hour. Other Dishes for Breakfast. (See Index.) Beefsteak. Mutton and Lamb Chops. Veal Cutlets. Stews (of all kinds) Mutton a la Venison. Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc. Baked Potatoes. German Potatoes. Mashed Potato Balls. Baked Tomatoes. Fried Tomatoes (No. 2). Devilled Tomatoes. A Summer Medley. Pea Fritters. Corn Oysters. Fresh Fish (all kinds). Breakfast. 45 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. REMARKS. Before you begin to mix the cakes grease the pans, and leave them to heat. They should be very hot before pour- ing in the mixture, which should not be allowed to stand after it is ready. The oven, too, must be hot, as all these things need to be baked quickly, as well as beaten hard. Have ready, always, a hot plate to put them on, so that they will not fall by a too sudden change of temperature. The sooner such things are eaten after baking, the better, especially those which do not contain much flour. Warm the knife before cutting any kind of tea cake. It will be even lighter if broken apart. Remember, then, three rules : Mix quickly, bake quickly, and eat soon. (For short-cake use pastry-flour, if you have it, as it makes a more flaky cake than the other.) Plain Muffins. 4 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved). f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. j Flour to make a thick batter I (about 3 cupfuls). 1 egg beaten light. 1A cupfuls milk. 2 table spoonful! butter (melted). 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix in this order. Beat hard ; have the muflin rings hot, fill them half full ; and bake in a hot oven nearly half an hour. Makes one dozen. Raised Muffins. 1 quart warm milk. 1 cupful melted buttei (less will do). 3 eggs, beaten light. 2 full tablespoon fuls yeast Flour to make a thick batter. 1 teaspoon fill salt. Mix in this order. Cover, and set to rise over night, if you want them for breakfast. If for tea, set them four or five hours before. When light pour gently into hot rings 46 How to Cook Well. (half-full) and bake at once in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Makes one dozen. Sweet Muffins. 2 h e a p i n g table spoonfuls sugar. cupful butter, i teaspoonful salt. 4 eggs, beaten light. ! : quart flour (more or less). 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- tar. 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved). 1 pint milk. Mix in this order. Beat hsrd, pour into hot muffin- rings, fill them half-full, and bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. (If you choose use three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, mixed through the flour; and omit the cream of tartar and soda.) Makes one and one half dozen. English Muffins. (No Butter or Milk.} 1 quart flour. 1 pint tepid water (more or less). li teaspoonfuls salt. 2 tablespoonfuls yeast. 1 egg (white only). Add the water to the flour, a little at a time, till you have enough for a very soft dough. Add the salt and yeast. Cover, and set to rise in a warm place. When light, beat up the white of the egg, and mix it in, with a spoon, beating hard. Put into hot rings, fill them half- full, and let them rise about ten minutes. Then bake at once in a very quick oven about fifteen minutes. If you Want the muffins for breakfast, set them at night ; if for tea, about nine o'clock in the morning. Makes one dozen. Improved by using more eggs, or a small piece of butter. Buttermilk Muffins. 1 pint sour or buttermilk. 1 pint flour. 1 table spoonful sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 teaspoonfuls butter melted. 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. Mix in order. Beat hard, and fill hot rings. Bake in a very hot oven about fifteen minutes. Eat before they Breakfast. 47 fall. The success of these depends upon hard beating and quick baking. Makes one dozen. Bice or Hominy Muffins. 1 cupful boiled rice or hominy. 1 pint flour. 1 teaspoon ful salt. 2 or 3 eggs, beaten light. 1 pint milk. Butter, size of an egg (melted). Mix. Beat hard. Fill hot muffin-rings to the top and bake in a very hot oven, about half an hour. Makes one dozen. Alleghany Corn Muffins. 1 pt corn mcaL 1 pt. white flour. 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- der. 4 capful sugar. 1 pt. milk or water. 2 eggs (beaten light). i cupful butter (melted). 1 teaspoonf ul salt. Mix and beat hard. Bake in hot, greased muffin-rings, about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. (Less butter will do.) North Carolina Corn Muffins. 1 quart corn meal. 1 teaspoon ful salt. Hot water. 8 eggs, beaten light. 1 tablespoonful shortening. Mix together, using enough water to make a thick bat- ter. Beat for ten minutes. Bake in muffin-rings, filled full, fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Quick Graham Biscuit. 1 pint graham flour. 1 pint wheat flour. 1 A teaspoonf uls salt. 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- der. 1 heaping tablespoonful butter or lard. 2 tablespoon f uls molasses. li cupful* milk or water (more or less.) I )> not sift the Graham flour. Mix like "Baking Pow- <lrr Biscuit," putting in the molasses and milk last of all. 48 How to CooJc Well. Add more milk if the dough is too stiff to roll out. Roll out about three quarters of an inch thick. Bake three quarters of an hour in a moderately hot oven. Makes a dripping-pan full. Graham Gems. 2 eggs, well beaten. 1 table spoonful sugar. 2 cupf uls milk. 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix in order. Beat hard. Heat gem-pans very hot. Pour in the mixture, and bake in a pretty hot oven for half an hour. Makes one dozen. Sour Milk Graham Gems. (Without Egg.} 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 1 cupful wheat flour. li teaspoonfuls salt. 1 tablespoonful brown 2 cupfuls sour milk. 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 1 tablespoonful melted but- ter. sugar. Beat hard. Fill hot gem-pans nearly full, and bake three quarters of an hour in a moderately hot oven. Makes one dozen. Raised Graham Gems. (No Milk or Eggs.} 1 pint Graham flour. 1 cupful wheat flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 tablespoonf uls molasses. 1 tablespoonful butter or lard melted. 2 tablespoonfuls yeast. If cupfuls tepid water. Mix well together, and set in a pretty warm place, cov- ered, to rise over night. In the morning, dip into hot gem-pans (disturbing the batter as little as possible). Fill pans full. Bake in a hot oven for half an hour. Makes one dozen. N". B. If the mixture seems sour in the morning, as it very likely will, dissolve one quarter of a teaspoonful of soda (or more) and mix into the batter. Breakfast. 49 Corn Bread. 2 cupf uls sour milk (or butter- milk). 2 tablespoon f uls sugar. 2 tablespoon fuls flour. 1 egg beaten light. 1 teaspoonf ul soda dissolved. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. Corn meal to make a thick bat- ter. Be sure not to put in too much corn mc.il. Only experience will teach how much to use. Bake in a shallow loaf about twenty minutes in a hot oven. What is left should be dried in the heater, then rolled fine, and used for " Slapjacks " or " Corn Meal Pudding," or for frying fish. Cream Corn Bread. 1 pint corn meal. 1 teaspoon ful salt. 1 pint cream. 1 egg, beaten light. 1 cup (nearly) flour. Boil the corn meal as for "Hasty Pudding" fully five minutes. Leave it to get quite cold. Then add the other ingredients, omitting the egg if you choose. Mix well to- gether, pour into a hot pan, and bake about half an hour in a quick oven. Rich Corn Bread. 1 quart corn meal. 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 1 teaspoon ful salt. [der. 3 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- 1 tablespoonful sugar. 1 pint milk or water. 3 eggs (beaten light). 1 scant cup butter (melted). Mix all the dry ingredients together first, taking care to have the baking-powder well incorporated with the rest. Add the other things in order. Pour into hot pans, and bake in a hot oven for about thirty-five minutes. 50 How to Cook Well. Rice Corn Bread. (An old Virginia Receipt.) 1 pint boiled rice. 1 quart skim milk (very hot). 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 1 table spoonful melted lard. 2 or 3 eggs (beaten separately). Corn meal for a medium batter. 2 teaspoonf uls baking-powder. Pour the milk over the rice. When cool, add the other ingredients, using the fine white meal. Scatter in the baking-powder dry at the last. Bake three quarters of an hour in an earthen dish in a moderate oven ; or a shorter time, in muffin-rings, in a hot oven. Makes two dozen muffins, or two medium-sized loaves. Corn Bread (other ways). See " Corn Meal Muffins." The receipts there given may be baked in loaves. St. Charles Pone; 1 pint fine white Indian meal. 1 pint milk (sweet or sour). 2 eggs beaten light. 1 teaspoonf ul butter (melted). i teaspoonf ul salt. i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). Mix and beat well, adding one teaspoonful of cream of tartar if the milk is sweet. Bake nearly half an hour in a quick oven. Makes a small loaf. (One egg will do.) Johnny Cake. (1 quart Indian meal. 1 quart sour milk, or butter- milk. 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 2 or 3 eggs, beaten light. 1 tablespoonful lard (melted). 1 teaspoonful salt. Mix, beat well, and bake in a thin loaf about fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Serve with maple syrup. Breakfast. 51 Hominy Bread. 2 cupfuls small hominy (boiled). 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonful butter (melted). 4 eggs, beaten light. 1 pint corn meal. 1 pint milk. Mix in this order. Beat hard. Have two pans hot, fill them half full and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Eat hot. This is particularly delicate and delicious. The loaves should be shallow. Enough for a family of six. Pop Overs. 2 eggs (separated). 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 teaspoonful melted butter. 1 pint milk (sour). 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved). 1 pint flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs. Add salt, butter and milk, with the soda. Lastly, the flour, put in alternately with the beaten whites of the eggs. Beat very light. The bat- ter is so thin that it is a good plan to use a Dover Egg- beater to mix it instead of a spoon. Heat earthen cups or round gem-pans very hot. Butter them, and fill half full with the batter. Bake twenty minutes in a very hot oven, taking care not to open the oven door during the first ten minutes, and not to jar the pans, as they fall very easily. Eat at once. Makes one dozen. Use sweet milk if you like and omit the soda. Sally Lunn. 2 eggs beaten light 4 teaspoonful salt. 3 cupfuls flour. 2 tcaspoonfuls cream tartar. 1 cupful milk. 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 3 flat tablespoonfuls butter, melted. Put in the flour and milk alternately, rubbing the cream of tartar through the flour before adding it. Have the pan hot ; fill it half-full, and bake in a rather hot oven, about half an hour, increasing the heat towards the last. (Add siiornr, if you like. Less butter may be used if more milk is added, say two tablespoonfuls butter to one 52 How to Cook Well. and one half cups of milk.) One and one half cups of huckleberries may be added. Sally Limn (raised). 1 pint light bread-dough. 6 tablespoonf uls sugar. 2 heaping tablespoonf uls butter, cupful milk, sweet or sour. teaspoonf ul cinnamon. cupful flour, more or less. melted. The flour should be enough for a rather stiff batter. Beat hard. Pour into a buttered baking pan, and set to rise in a warm place till light (about four hours). Bake at once in the same pan, in a rather hot oven, for about half an hour. If you like crust, dip the batter carefully into hot gem- pans and bake. This will fill one and one half dozen gem- pans. (Improved by one egg added when you set it.) Lottie's Cream Tea Cake. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 cupful sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 cupful sour cream. 1 teaspoonful soda. 2 eggs beaten light. Stir the flour, sugar and salt together ; then stir the soda into the cream dissolving it very thoroughly and stir it at once into the flour, etc. (If it is left standing it will foam and run over the cup.) Add the eggs, and beat all together rapidly. Bake in a loaf in a moderate oven three quarters of an hour filling the pan only half-full. Increase the heat towards the last. Have ready a hot plate to serve it on, and warm the knife before cutting the cake. Huckleberry Tea Cake. teaspoonful soda, dissolved. ^ cupful butter. li cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs, beaten light. cupful sour or buttermilk. cupfuls flour. pint huckleberries or blue- berries. Rub butter and sugar to a cream, add the other ingre- dients in the order given. Bake in a loaf in a moderate oven about half an hour; increase the heat toward the last. Breakfast. 53 Plain Huckleberry Tea Cake. (See " Sally Lunn.") Plain Breakfast Cake. 1 quart flour (scant). 4 teaspoon fuls cream tartar. 1 teaspoouf ul salt. 4 cup sugar (or less). 1 pint milk. 2 teaspoon fuls soda dissolved. 2 eggs (beaten light). Mix thoroughly, beat hard. (If you choose omit the sugar and one egg.) Put into a warm, buttered square pan, and bake in a pretty hot oven about half an hour, taking care to keep the heat steady. Put on the table whole, on a hot plate. Cut it in squares, previously warm- ing the knife, and eat hot. Enough for seven persons. This mixture is good baked in hot gem-pans ; it will make twenty gems. General Washington's Breakfast Cake. :1 quart milk. 9 1 tablespoon ful butter. 2 pounds flour. 2 teaspoon fuls salt 1 cupful yeast. 3 eggs (beaten light). Mix about nine in the evening as follows : Warm the milk and butter together. When lukewarm stir in the flour. Add salt, yeast and eggs. Beat all well together. Grease two deep, large pans. Pour in the bat- ter, filling pans only half-full, and set it to rise over night in a warm place. In the morning bake it in the same pans, without disturbing the batter. The oven should be hot, and it should bake three quarters of an hour, with sU'.-idy heat. This was always on General Washington's breakfast table the last few years of his life. For a family of ten. 54 How to Cook Well. Short Cake. 1 quart flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. [der. 1 cupful butter (or half lard). 1 cupful hot milk (full). 1 3 teaspoonfuls baking pow- Mix as directed for " Baking Powder Biscuit." Roll out lightly on the bread-board (adding no more flour) about one inch thick. With a knife, cut into square cakes, and bake in a dripping-pan ; or butter three tin pie- plates, and with a pan of the same size, cut the dough into three circular loaves to fit them. Bake in a hot oven, about fifteen minutes, taking care not to let the crust harden on top. If there is danger of this, cover with a thick paper, or set a pan of cold water on the oven-shelf above. Serve hot, with butter. Makes three loaves. Sour Milk Short Cake. 2 cupf uls sour milk (or butter- milk). | cupful butter or lard (melted). 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved). l teaspoonfuls salt. Flour to make a soft dough. Put the milk into the mixing-bowl. Add the butter. Then stir in the soda rapidly. Add the salt and flour. Put the dough on the bread-board, and roll out about one inch thick, handling it no more than is necessary. With a deep round pan, just the size of the pie-plates you mean to bake it in, cut out into large rounds, by turning the pan upside down. Lay in the pie-plates, and bake in a very quick oven, about fifteen minutes. Serve hot with butter. This makes two loaves. It is a particularly nice short cake. Millville Short Cake. cupfuls flour. [der. teaspoonfuls baking pow- large tablespoonf ul butter, cupful milk. | teaspoonful salt. Mix as directed for " Baking Powder Biscuit." Breakfast. 55 When mixed turn on bread-board, and with as little handling as possible, roll out into one thick sheet, shaping it as you go, to fit a small pie-plate. Put it into that, and by shaking, bring into still better shape. Hake in a very hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. Serve hot, to be eaten with butter. Makes one small loaf. Fruit Short Cake. Mix and bake any of the preceding short cakes. As soon as done, split by pulling apart with the fingers (on no account use a knife or it will be heavy). Butter the inside of both halves while hot. Spread the under one thickly with one and one half quarts berries (or fruit of any kind) which have been standing sugared for half an hour. Put the juice over the berries. Put back the top half of the short cake, and leave to get cold. Before serving, sift powdered sugar over the top. Some persons heap more berries on top. Eat cold with cream and sugar, the same day it is baked. Strawberry Short Cake. Fruit Short Cake.) Currant Short Cake. This refreshing short cake for breakfast on a hot morn- ing is made according to directions for " Fruit Short Cake," as above. Raspberry Short Cake. This is by many preferred to Strawberry Short Cake. See ' Fruit Short Cake," as above. Apple Short Cake. Make a short cake by any receipt given above. Butter while hot, and fill with a stiff apple sauce made very sweet, and seasoned while hot with butter and nutmeg. Serve 56 How to Cook Well. cold with sugar and cream. This is quickly and easily made, and furnishes something nice when other fruit is out of season. Peach Short Cake. Peel, slice, and sugar ripe peaches, and let them stand for half an hour. Then proceed as with " Fruit Short Cake." Canned peaches may be used. GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. KEMAKKS. If possible, procure a soapstone griddle. It needs no greasing, and therefore makes no disagreeable smell through the house. If you have only an ordinary griddle and must use grease, do it with a rag tied on the end of a stick, and put on as little as possible only enough to keep the cakes from sticking, not enough to make them greasy. Have the griddle hot before beginning to fry the cakes. It is well to try a very little of the batter first, both to make sure that the consistency of the batter is right, and that the griddle is of the right temperature. Allow a tablespoonf ul of batter to each cake ; except Buck- wheat Cakes, which should be larger; this can be attained by pouring from a cup. When the edges of each cake look dry, it is time to turn it. Do this with a tin spatula, not a knife. When done on the other side, put at once on a hot plate, in a pile, not scattered about, as that causes them to cool. When the griddle is emptied, grease again, and pour on a fresh supply of batter. If the cakes are doughy inside, the griddle is too hot ; if dry and tough, it is not hot enough. Serve Buckwheat Cakes with maple syrup or molasses ; more delicate cakes with sugar, or sugar and cinnamon Breakfast. 57 previously mixed together, and put into a sifter, such as is used for salt. N. B. If any batter is left, after frying griddle cakes, bake it at once in gem-pans, first adding a little flour. If kept, to be used for cakes next morning, add two or three eggs to the batter, otherwise it will not be light. Unequalled Buckwheat Cakes. quart buckwheat flour. tablespoonfuls wheat flour. teaspoon ful salt. cupfuls yeast. f 1 pint fresh milk (warm). I 4 pint warm water. Set them at nine o'clock in the evening, for breakfast. Mix well together the first four ingredients, in order. Then add the milk and water, previously mixed together. Beat all together very hard. Cover and leave to rise. In the morning the top will IHJ covered with bubbles. The cakes must be light, thick and spongy. If too thick add a little warm water. Do not have the griddle too hot, as, being thick, they will not then cook in the middle. Hake them the size of a HID all saucer. (If sour in the morning add half a teaspoonful or more soda, dissolved in boiling water.) N. B. Buckwheat Cakes, in my opinion, should be set fresh every time to be sure of their not being sour. Yet in many families it is customary to reserve a cupful of the batter every time to set the next with. In this case mix as usual, simply substituting the batter for the yeast. Buckwheat Cakes with Water. 1 quart buckwheat flour. I taiiU'spoonfuls corn meal. 1 teaspoonful salt. 4 tablespoon fuls yeast. 1 pint tepid water (more or less). 3 tablespoonf uls molasses. Mix as early as six o'clock in the evening. Use enough 58 How to Cook Well water to make a thick batter (if too thin it will not rise). Beat well, and set to rise in a warm place, covered. In the morning, if sour (as it is almost invariably) stir in one teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a little warm water. If it still smells sour, add more. The batter will be thinner now than it was when first set, but it should still be a thick batter. If too thin, add a little wheat flour, if too thick, add tepid water. For a family of five. Buck-eye Buckwheat Cakes. :2 quarts boiling water. 1 cupful corn meal. 1 cupful wheat flour. 3 pints buckwheat flour. 1 cupful yeast (shaken). 2 teaspoonf uls salt. At noon of the day before you wish to use the cakes, stir the corn meal (wet with a little cold water) into the boiling water on the stove. Boil till it forms a thin gruel. Let it cool, but not become cold ; then add the other ingredients. Beat well, cover, and set to rise in a warm place. In the evening, beat well again, cover, and set to rise in a cool place till morning. Before breakfast, add one teaspoonful of soda (dissolved in warm water) if it seems sour. If too thick add warm water, but do not make a thin batter of it. Do not have the griddle too hot. Oatmeal Griddle Cakes. (No Eygs or Milk.) 2 cups flour. 2 teaspoonf uls baking pow- der. 2 cups cold boiled oatmeal. 2 tablespoonfuls molasses. 2i cups water (more or less). 1 teaspoonful salt. The three first ingredients must be mixed together thoroughly before adding anything else. In putting in the water, which must come last, be sure you do not get in too much (the batter should be thick). Try a little of Breakfast. 59 the batter before making the cakes. If too thick, add water; if too thin, add flour. Do not have the griddle too hot. For a family of six. Graham Griddle Cakes. (No Eyys or Milk.) /- 44 cups Graham flour. j 14 cups wheat flour. 1 4 teaspoon ful salt. 1 tablespoon ful molasses. 1 quart tepid water. 4 cupful yeast (shaken). Set to rise over night. Before breakfast add half a tcnspoonful soda (dissolved in a little warm water). For a family of six. Bread Griddle Cakes. Pour over stale pieces of bread boiling water enough to rather more than cover them. Cover close and soak about one hour. When soft, drain off every drop of wa- ter, squeeze dry, and mash through a colander. (If still very moist, set in the heater awhile.) Then take 3 cupfuls soaked crumbs. 4 teaspoonful salt. 1 egg beaten light. 1 cupful milk. 1 heaping cupful flour. 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. Beat well together and fry. If you find you cannot turn the cakes without breaking them, add a little more flour. (Another egg is an improvement.) One tablespoon- ful molasses may be added. It makes the cakes brown nicely. Buttermilk Griddle Cakes. 1 quart buttermilk (or sour milk). Flour to make a medium batter. 2 teas poo nf uls soda, dissolved. 2 teaspoonfuls salt, nearly. Mix in order, beat hard, and do not put in the soda till just before frying the cakes. Improved by the addition of one eg;:. For a family of six. 60 How to Cook Well. Hominy Griddle Cakes. Make like Buttermilk Griddle Cakes, with the addition of one cupful cold boiled hominy (finest kind). Use a little less flour. Another with Eggs. 1 pint boiled hominy (fine kind) . 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 2 or 3 eggs beaten light. 2 cups flour. l cupfuls milk (more or less). 1 dessert spoonful melted but- ter, i teaspoonful soda dissolved. The hominy must not be hot when the eggs are put in. Use milk enough to make a batter just stiff enough to support a drop. The butter may be omitted if you use three eggs. Rice Griddle Cakes. Like the last receipt, substituting rice for hominy. Another without Eggs. 1 cupful cold boiled rice. 1 quart sweet or sour milk. 1 teaspoonful salt. i cupful melted butter. 1 cupful flour. 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. Soak the rice in the milk a little while. Mix in order. Beat hard. Test the batter before frying the cakes. If they break add more flour. Very delicate and nice. Slapjacks. Pour over four cupfuls corn meal sufficient boiling water to make it very damp. Mix well. Add 1 or 2 eggs beaten light. 2 cupfuls milk. 2i teaspoonfuls salt. 1 tablespoonful molasses. 1 cupful flour. 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. Mix and beat well. If they break in turning add more flour. Cold Corn Bread crumbs (dried and rolled fine) may be used instead of the meal, in which case use more of them, or put less milk. Breakfast. 61 What batter is left over, bake at once as Cora Bread, which can be steamed for breakfast next day. For a family of six. Pancakes. 11 pint flour. i teaspoon ful salt. 1 quart milk. 3 eggs, beaten very light. v \ tcaspooiif ul baking-powder. Mix the dry things thoroughly together. Then add the milk, stirring it in till the batter is perfectly smooth ; lastly, beat in the eggs. (A few spoonfuls of freshly fallen snow make pancakes very light. It should be added the hist thing before frying.) Have the frying- pan very hot, and grease it well with lard. Pour in enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan. Turn the cake when half done. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon or spread with jelly ; roll up as you would a sheet of paper ; and lay on a hot plate. Serve when a plateful is ready. Pancakes should not be allowed to stand at all after be- ing mixed, before they are fried. English Pancakes. Like the last receipt, but omit the baking powder and use four eggs. Add at the last a little grated nutmeg and one tablespoonful brandy. Flannel Cakes. 1 quart milk. 1 teaspoonful salt. 3 tablcspoonf uls yeast. Flour to make a rather thick batter. Piece butter size of an egg. 2 eggs, well beaten. Beat hard together the first four ingredients at night, if you want them for breakfast ; early in the day, if for tea. 62 How to Cook Well. Set them to rise, covered. When light (i. e. bubbly) add the butter (melted) and the eggs ; and fry at once like other griddle-cakes. Waffles. 1 pint sour or buttermilk. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 3 teaspoonf uls melted butter. 3 eggs (separated). Flour to make a thick batter. 1 teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). Beat all together, adding the soda just before cooking. Grease the waffle-iron thoroughly. (Or, use sweet milk and two teaspoonf uls baking-powder in place of the soda.) Risen Waffles. 1| quart flour. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 1 quart milk. 1 cupful yeast. 2 eggs (beaten light). Butter size of egg (melted). Set at night for breakfast, or early in the day for tea. Beat together the first four ingredients. Let them stand till light. Then add the eggs and butter. Beat hard, and bake. Rich Waffles. 1 quart milk. | teaspoonf ul salt. | cupful butter (melted). 4 eggs (beaten light). f 3 teaspoonf uls baking pow- der. Flour to make a thick batter. Beat all together, previously mixing the baking-powder through a part of the flour. Then bake. N. B. Sour milk may be used by substituting for the baking powder two teaspoonf uls of soda. Jireakfast. 63 Rice Waffles. li cupfuls boiled rice. 1 pint milk, hot. 1 pint milk, cold. 1 teaspoon ful salt. 4 eggs, well-beaten. Flour. Mix the rice and hot milk very smoothly togethei ; then stir in the cold milk. Add the salt and the eggs, mixing thoroughly. Lastly stir in gradually enough flour to make a stiff batter. Proceed aa with other wafflea. LUNCHEON. REMARKS. IN many families it is the custom for the ladies to have lunch in the middle of the day, and to reserve the more hearty meal of dinner till the gentlemen have returned from business and can share it with them at the close of the day. A home lunch is, therefore, an informal affair, usually arranged with but one course, everything being placed on the table at once. The lunch-parties which fashionable ladies give to their lady friends are quite different. For these, preparations are made as elaborate as suit the taste of the hostess. I have not undertaken to arrange this department of my book with a view to these fashionable gatherings, but have merely made a collection of dishes suitable to a family- lunch ; at the same time trying to give a somewhat wide range to choose from ; so that both those who live simply and those who require a more hearty meal will be suited. Sandwiches. Butter bread (a day old) on the loaf. Spread with a lit- tle made mustard or " Salad Dressing," if you have any. Cut the bread very thin. When two slices are ready, lay them together, with thin shavings of ham or tongue be- tween. With a sharp knife, cut each sandwich in half. Another Way is to chop fine, ham, chicken, or tongue, season it highly, and spread on the bread. If you use ham, use a little of the fat with the lean. 64 Luncheon. 65 Delicious sandwiches and cheaper ones can be made by mincing fine, raw beefsteak. Season only with pepper and salt. These are excellent for invalids. Rolled Sandwiches. Chop very fine equal quantities of cold chicken and tongue. Add two thirds of teaspoonful of celery salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of "May- onnaise Dressing." This is enough to season the breast of a large chicken and as much tongue. Spread on very thin slices of bread and butter, from which the crust has been cut off. Roll them up as you would a piece of paper and pile in a plate. Any sandwiches of chopped meat can bo rolled, if the bread Is cut sufficiently thin and the crust trimmed off. Anchovy Toast. Pass a few anchovies through a sieve. Mix with them a little melted butter and red pepper. Spread the mixture on both sides of a piece of toast. Lay a " Poached Egg " on each piece of toast aud serve hot. Savory Toast. Mince a cupful of cold ham, fowl, or veal, and season with salt and pepper. If you use ham, omit the salt and add a little mustard ; if fowl or veal, add celery salt. Mix one beaten egg with the meat ; spread between thin slices of bread and toast slightly. (Oysters may be parboiled, chopped and mixed with "Cream Sauce," and spread when cold between thin slices of bread and toasted in the same way.) Butter the top of each and serve hot. 66 How to Cook Well. Ramakin Toast. 1 tablespoonful cheese, grated. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 egg, yolk only. \ teaspoonful mustard. | teaspoonful red pepper. A little salt. Mix all together ; spread the mixture thickly on a sl'.ce of toast, and brown before the fire. Welsh. Rarebit. Cheese, the size of teacup. 1 large cupful of milk. Butter size of an egg. A pinch of mustard, dry. A little red pepper. 2 large crackers, rolled fine. 1 egg well beaten. Cut the cheese in small, thin slices. Put it in the fry- ing-pan with the milk. Add the butter, egg, mustard and spices. Stir in the crackers gradually. When all is thoroughly mixed, turn the mixture out, and serve in a covered dish. Eat with dry toast. Or serve spread on toast. Cheese Fondue. Weight of 2 eggs in cheese. | 4 eggs beaten separately. Weight of 2 eggs in butter. I Salt and pepper to taste. Grate the cheese. Beat it thoroughly into the butter and yolks. Season. Last stir in the whites. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, and serve immediately on tak- ing out in the same dish. VEGETABLES. Saratoga Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes very thin. Put them into very cold water for half an hour or on the ice to chill them. Then drain and dry them thoroughly between two towels. Have ready a pound of lard at the boiling point in a deep kettle. Drop in a few pieces of potato, and keep them separated from each other, as well as you can, while they Luncheon. 67 fry. When delicately browned take them out with a skimmer, and drain on a sieve, at the same time sprink- ling them with salt. The browning will be hastened if the potatoes are taken from the kettle when partly cooked and exposed to the air for an instant, before you finish frying them. Two or three large potatoes will make a dishful. Serve cold or hot. A pretty way to serve them is to spread them over a platter, and lay chicken or veal croquettes at intervals, with sprigs of parsley around each croquette. Maitre d'Hotel Potato. f Cold boiled potatoes. I 4 cupful milk. ( 3 table-spoonfuls butter. Pepper and salt. Chop|>ed parsley. 4 lemon (juice only). Put the milk and butter into a sauce-pan already hot, with the potatoes, sliced rather thick. After a moment, add the seasoning and parsley. Heat all together quickly, stirring constantly. As you are about to dish it, stir in quickly the lemon juice. Serve in a covered dish. Potatoes with Giblets. Cold boiled potatoes. 1 cupful milk. 1 cupful broth from boiled chicken. Giblets from 2 chickens. 1 tabk-spoonful tlotir. 1 tablcspoonful butter. Salt and pepper. Cut the potatoes into pieces the size and shape of small dice, while the milk and chicken-broth are heating on the stove. When they begin to boil add the giblets (chopped fine). If raw let them stew for ten minutes; if cooked, less time will do. Thicken, when done, with the flour (previously wet with cold water), and add butter and sea- soning. Put in the potatoes, and let them get thoroughly hot, taking care not to break them by too much stirring. If you have no broth, "Giblet Gravy " can be substituted for that and the raw giblets. 68 How to Cook Well. German Potatoes. Choose large smooth potatoes, and bake them. When all but done, scoop out the inside from a small hole at the top. Season and mash the potato, and mix with it some sausage meat (cooked). Put back in the skins, and replace in the oven till very hot and tender. Kentucky or Escaloped Potatoes. Cut into thin slices either cold boiled, or raw potatoes. Butter a baking-dish, and put in the potatoes in layers, with salt, pepper, and bits of butter. Moisten with milk or cream enough to cover the potatoes. Bake in a moder- ate oven a full hour if the potatoes are raw, less time in a quick oven if already boiled. For those who like onion it gives a pleasant flavor to run the knife through a raw onion several times while slic- ing the potatoes. Fried Tomatoes (No. 2). Cut raw tomatoes into thick slices, leaving the skin on. Lay them on a platter, and dredge thickly with flour. Lay them, then, with the floured side down, in a hot fry- ing-pan, containing a large lump of butter, lard, or beef- dripping, boiling hot. Fry slowly till brown. Dredge the upper side with flour. Turn, and brown the other side. Sprinkle the upper side now, with pepper and salt. When tender and browned, lay the slices of tomato on a clean hot platter. Add cream or milk to the grease in the pan, and dredge in flour. Let it come to a boil. Pour over the tomatoes and serve hot. Devilled Tomatoes. 1 hard-boiled egg, yolk only. 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. 1 teaspoonful sugar. 4 teaspoonful salt. | teaspoonful dry mustard. l tablespoonfuls vinegar. 1 raw egg (beaten light). 1 pint tomatoes. A little pepper. Rub the yolk of the boiled egg till fine, like powder. Luncheon. 69 Mix in the butter, sugar, salt, pepper and mustard. Be sure these are well mingled. Then add the vinegar. Set on the stove, within a pan of boiling water. Heat almost to a boil. Add the beaten egg, stirring quickly, so as not to curdle. Set on the back part of the stove to keep hot, while you slice the tomatoes (thick) and broil them over hot coals. Lay the tomatoes in a platter and pour the hot sauco over. Baked Tomatoes. Butter a deep dish. Skin the tomatoes (or not), lay them in whole. Sprinkle over them salt and fine crumbs of bread or cracker. Put small bits of butter plentifully over the top and between the tomatoes. Bake nearly three quarters of an hour. If they look too dry on top before they are done, dip a very little boiling water over the tops, and lay on more butter. Serve in the same dish. (Easily cooked, and excellent.) Stuffed Baked Tomatoes. Choose large, firm tomatoes, of a good round shape. Cut out a round place in the top. With a small sharp knife, take out all the inside, leaving enough around the inner side of the skin to keep the shape. Chop what you have taken out, and mix with it stale bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, a little melted butter, and a very little finely minced onion or green corn. Mix well together, and with a teaspoon fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Put them in a deep dish, thickly buttered. Bake in a slow oven nearly three quarters of an hour. When half- done lay bits of butter on top of each tomato. Serve in the same dish. 70 How to Cook Well. Stuffed Tomatoes. (A Turkish Dish.} Scoop out the inside of tomatoes, as above. Chop fine, and mix with part of it a little rare beef, minced fine and seasoned highly with cloves and marjoram, pepper and salt. Add one third as much raw rice, well washed and soaked. Fill the tomatoes, and lay them in the bottom of a large round skillet. Cover, and stew very slowly till tender (about three quarters of an hour) without adding water. Corn Pudding. 12 ears of corn, grated. 1 pint milk. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 1 teaspoonf ul melted butter. 2 tablespoonf uls pounded crack- er or flour. 2 or 3 eggs. Mix all together (adding a dredging more of flour if the corn is very young). Put in a buttered pudding dish and bake in a moderate hot oven about one hour, covered until the last ten minutes. Then brown quickly. (Old corn may be used for this.) Serve as a vegetable. Baked Hominy. Large. Butter a pudding-dish. Fill it with boiled hominy, with bits of butter at intervals. Pour over all a little milk and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Fine. Same as above, but beat into the hominy two or three yolks of eggs ; the more there are the better the dish will be. Baked Bice. 1 pint boiled rice. 1 pint milk, very hot. i tablespoonf ul melted butter. | teaspoonful salt. 3 eggs, beaten separately. 4 cupful flour. Pour the milk over the rice. When cool beat in the other ingredients. Beat all thoroughly, taking care to Luncheon. 71 leave no lumps of rice. Pour into a buttered pudding dish, and bake in a hot oven about half an hour. Serve at once as a vegetable. To Vary it, omit eggs, and add a little grated cheese arid red pepper. Put bits of butter over the top and bake, covered at first. Baked Macaroni. Put boiled macaroni (hot or cold) into a buttered pud- ding-dish in layers with bits of butter and jdenty of thickly grated cheese. Fill the dish more than half full of milk, and put a layer of fine, grated bread-crumbs on top. Cover this with bits of butter. Bake in a very quick oven about ten minutes, till nicely browned on top. Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. Butter a deep, large dish. Put a layer of macaroni (boiled) in it, then a layer of "Tomato Sauce," etc., till the dish is full. Have sauce on top. Brown in a very hot oven for five minutes. What is left, use for soup. Stuffed Egg-plant. 1 large purple egg-plant. f 1 cupful milk \ 1 cupful breadcrumbs. I Pepper and salt. Cut the top off the egg-plant. Scrape or cutout all the inside, and boil this till thoroughly done in cold water. Mix into it while hot the milk, bread-crumbs, pepper and salt. Fill the shell with the stuffing, and bake a quarter of an hour in a very hot oven, basting it once or twice with butter. The stuffing may be made richer by adding a little minced salt pork, onion, and parsley. Use what is left for " An Appetizing Breakfast Dish." 72 How to Cook Well. Cold Slaw or Cabbage Salad. Crisp a firm head of cabbage by laying it in cold water for half an hour. Then shave it fine, and pour over it vine- gar with pepper and salt, or the following dressing when cold. f Butter size of a walnut. -I i teaspoonful mustard (dry). 1 1 tablespoonf ul flour. 1 egg yolk only. 2 tablespoonfuls cream. A little salt and pepper. 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Rub butter, mustard and flour together, and add vine- gar. Boil a minute. Then pour it on the beaten egg, add cream, and salt and pepper. Return to the fire (set in a pan of hot water) and stir a moment. Set away at once to get cold. Serve the Cold Slaw cold. Hot Slaw. 1 cupful of milk. A little flour. J cupful vinegar. i teaspoonful mustard, dry. A teaspoonful of butter, soft. 1 egg, beaten light. Mix the flour smooth in the milk till you have put in enough to make it the consistency of cream. Add the other ingredients and cook as in " Cold Slaw." When it has boiled up once pour it while hot over cabbage, previ- ously shredded. Keep in a pan of hot water a few minutes, then serve. This is particularly nice. MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. Lambs' Tongues with Sauce Piquante. Parboil fresh tongues in salted water. Remove the skin. Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Put in a sauce-pan, and half cover with water or stock. Add a small onion, chopped fine, and one teaspoonful of herbs (any kind you like). Stew till tender about two hours. Serve on a platter, with " Sauce Piquante " poured over them. Luncfieon. 78 Pickled Lambs' Tongues. Boil the tongues till tender. Skin them, but do not cut off the roots. Drop them into cold vinegar with pepper and a few whole cloves, also a little allspice. Let them lie in this at least twelve hours before serving. Slice the tongues if you prefer. Calf's or Beefs Heart. Do not soak, but wash it thoroughly. Then sprinkle with pepper and salt. Fill it with a stuffing. Butter a paper and tie over the top, to keep in the stuffing. Bake in a very slow oven, nearly two hours, having poured one cupful of boiling water in the bottom of the pan. Baste it about once in ten minutes. When tender, take off the paper and lay the heart on a dish. Set the pan on top of the stove and make a gravy to pour over it. Add minced onion to the gravy, if you like, or "Tomato Catsup." An agreeable addition is to lay "Baked Tomatoes" around the dish. Dolmathes. (A Turkish Dish.) Rare roast beef, or any cold meat. Salt. Pepper. Ground cinnamon. Ground cloves. Rice, raw and well washed. Tender grape-leaves. Mince the meat and season as above. Mix it well with the rice, in proportion one third meat to two thirds rice. Scald the grape leaves, and wrap a little of the mixture in each, to about the size of half an egg. Pin with a locust, or other thorn, if to be had. If not, tie with a thread, and lay them in a skillet. Cover well with boiling water, and simmer one hour. Dish carefully. 74 How to Cook Well. Sauce for Dolmathes. A little flour. Liquor from the skillet. 2 eggs well beaten. 1 or 2 lemons, juice only. Mix the flour smooth with a little cold water, and stir into the boiling liquor. Then put in the eggs, stirring without ceasing a moment, until cooked and smooth. Add the juice of one or two lemons, according to the quantity, for it must be quite acid, and pour over the dish. Dolmathes (varied). Make as above, but use narrow squashes in place of grape-leaves. Cut off one end of the squash, and remove part of the centre. This is even nicer than the grape- leaves, as they are in this country usually too tough to eat ; still, they give a fine flavor. In Turkey a large, tender sorrel-leaf was often used. Frogs. Use only the hind-quarters. Scald them in boiling water; then rub them with lemon juice and boil three minutes. Wipe them ; then "egg and crumb" them, and fry till brown, in hot lard and butter mixed. Mousaka. (A Turkish Dish). 1 egg-plant. Cold meat (beef preferred). Salt and pepper. Cinnamon and cloves. 1 small onion, minced (may be omitted). 1 egg, beaten light. 6 tomatoes. Gravy. Slice the egg-plant without peeling, sprinkle with salt, and pile one slice on another. Let them stand one hour to take out the bitter. Luncheon. 75 Then fry brown to give flavor (no matter whether eooked through). Chop the meat fine (it should be rare), and season it highly. Add the onion and egg. Peel and slice the tomatoes. Fill a buttered pudding- dish with layers of meat, tomatoes, and egg-plant, the hist layer on top being of meat. Add all the cold gravy you can get in. If you have not enough to fill the dish, put in water. Then bake, covered, two hours, slowly at first ; then uncover and brown quickly. Egg-plant left from a former dinner may be used for this. (A rich and delicious dish). Imitation Paid de Foie Gras. Wash and clean a calf s liver. Let it lie in salt and water for fifteen minutes. Boil till tender. Beat it through a coarse wire sieve. Add one tablespoon ful melted butter. Season with a little thyme, marjoram, salt and pepper. Pack tight in pots. Cover with lard, and keep in a cool place. It will keep for several days. To really imitate a Pate" de Foie Gras, this should have bits of tongue mixed through it, but it is just' as good without. Devilled Ham or Chicken. f Cold boiled ham. Dry mustard. v Cayenne and black pepper. Butter size of an egg. 1 cupful milk or cream. 1 tablcspoonful flour. Chop the ham very fine, and season with a little mustard and pepper. While doing this, have the frying-pan on the fire to get hot. When ready put the butter in the pan. When hot, put in the ham. Add the milk, and let it cook one or two minutes, stirring all the time. Then stir in the flour, previously rubbed to a paste in a very little milk. When it thickens, remove from the fire. This will keep for several days in a cold place. 76 How to CooJc Well. Mutton a la Venison, 4 slices cold roast mutton. 1 cupful cold mutton-gravy. 2 tablespoonfuls currant jelly. 1 teaspoonf ul made mustard. Pepper and salt. 2 tablespoonfuls Madeira or cur- rant wine. Cut the slices of mutton pretty thick. Put them in a frying-pan, already heated. Pour over them the gravy. When smoking hot, add the jelly. Stir till melted. Then put in the other things, adding the wine at the last min- ute before serving. This makes a good imitation of venison, if not allowed to stand after it is cooked. Casserole Bice and Meat; (With Tomato Sauce.) ' 3 cupf uls hot boiled rice, i pound cold meat (chopped fine). 1 teaspoonf ul onion (chopped fine}. 1 teaspoonf ul parsley (chopped fine). 1 saltspoonf ul thyme. 1 saltspoonf ul marjoram. 1 saltspoonf ul celery salt. 1 saltspoonf ul pepper. A little salt. 2 tablespoonfuls fine crumbs. A little hot water or stock. Butter a small mould. Line the sides and bottom half an inch deep with the soft rice reserving a little. Have ready the meat, well mixed with the spices. To this add the crumbs (bread or cracker), previously moistened suffi- ciently to bind it. Stir all well together, and then pack closely in the mould. Cover the meat with the rest of the rice, and steam three quarters of an hour. Invert on a hot dish, and pour around it "Tomato Sauce." Luncheon. 77 Wild Birds, Rechauffee. Cut meat off of wild birds of any kind, left from dinner, scraping the bones well ; mince tine. Put the bones in a sauce-pan with enough cold water to cover them. Cover, and boil fast, ten minutes. Strain, and return to the sauce-pan, with the meat, a few bits of butter, the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and one third cupful of port wine, if you have it. Simmer gently a few minutes, keeping the sauce-pan covered. When it boils up well, stir in a tcaspoonf ul of browned flour, rubbed to a paste in cold water. Serve at once on a platter lined with slices of buttered toast. To increase the quantity, and yet have an appetizing dish, add to the meat the remains of roast duck, or even chicken and turkey. This can easily bo done in winter, when meat can be saved from day to day. Chicken and Corn Pudding. 2 stewed chickens. 1 quart grated green corn. 3 eggs (yolks only). A little salt A little cayenne pepper. 2 tablespooiif uls melted butter. 1 cupful strained tomato juice. A little chicken broth or gravy. While the chickens are stewing, prepare the corn, and mix all the other things with it, except the chicken-broth. Line a buttered baking-dish with part of the mixture. Joint the chickens, and put them in with a little broth or gravy, then cover them with what remains of the corn batter. Bake in a moderate oven until well done. The remains of any cold chicken may be used for this. Chicken Baked in Rice. Cut a chicken into joints as for fricassee. Season -with pepper and salt. Lay in a deep dish lined with slices of ham or bacon. Add one pint veal gravy ; one onion finely 78 How to Cook WeU. minced, and mixed through it. Fill up the dish with " Boiled Rice " piled high as the dish will hold. Cover with a paste of flour and water. Bake one hour. Before serving, remove the paste. A Tempting Dish for Luncheon. Shred cold chicken (cooked in any way) into mouthfuls, and mince the liver. Cut nearly an equal amount of celery into short pieces ; barely cover them with water, and stew till tender. Then add the chicken, with pepper and salt. When it boils add bits of butter, thickly rolled in flour, and one half cupful of milk into which flour has been stirred to make it the consistency of cream. Boil till it thickens well. Served covered. PRESSED MEATS. Beef Loaf. 1 pound raw beef (from the round). 1 egg beaten light. 4 tablespoonfuls powdered crackers. l\ teaspoonfuls salt. A little pepper. 1 dessert spoonful summer savory. 1 dessert spoonful thyme. Chop the meat fine. Mix all well together. Do not add water, though it may seem dry, for the juices of the meat will provide moistening enough. Butter a small deep pan. Press the meat down hard in it. Cover the top with melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven about an hour. When cold, turn out on a platter, and cut into thin slices at the table. For a family of six. N". B. If you have no pan small enough for it, shape it with floured hands into a round loaf. Put on a greased pie-plate and bake. But it will Hot slice quite so nicely as if treated the other way. Luncheon. 79 Spiced Beef. Buy a shin of beef. Have the bone well cracked and the shin cut in two. Save that with the least meat on it for soup. Put on the other half to boil in four quarts of cold water with one tablespoon ful of salt. Keep it covered ; when it beyins to boil, skim it. Let it boil slowly nearly all day, i. e. till the meat separates from the bone, and is done to shreds, and the liquor has nearly boiled away. If there is danger of the meat burning while boiling, add a little boiling water not otherwise. When done, take the meat out in a pan. Remove all bone and gristle. Chop it coarse. Season with pepper, allspice, sweet marjoram and a quarter of a teaspoonful of cloves. Put it back in the pot. Let it simmer half an hour. Stir it up well, but do not add more water. Put it in a deep bowl or pretty mould, previously wet, and press it down hard. Set in a cold place. When cold turn out, and cut in slices. Pressed Corned Beef. Boil the corned beef slowly (or else it will be tough) in cold water, more than enough to cover it. Let it boil fur several hours covered. Fill it up occasionally with boil- ing water, keeping the beef always covered with water. When the bone slips from the meat, it is done ; be sure not to take it up till then, or till it can be easily pierced with a fork. Put the meat into a deep pan, tearing up the lean, and mixing the fat through it in such a way as to give it a marbled look when cut. Heap the dish. Mois- ten it a little with the water in which it was boiled. Put a tin cover on top, in such a way as to press the meat, set two flat-irons on that, and leave it to harden over night. When cold turn out, and serve with mustard for a relish. (The brisket is a good piece to cook in this way.) If not too salt, the liquor left in the pot will make good soup, with the addition of tomatoes and spice. 80 How to Cook Well. Head Cheese. Wash and scrape four hogs' heads, and cut off the end of the snouts. Scrape and clean the skins which have come off the fat of the backbones and chines. Use the feet also if you like. Put all these into a large pot of cold water, and boil them till so tender that the bones can be easily slipped out from the meat. Chop the meat, and season it with salt, pepper, and spices to your taste ; sage, mace, cinnamon and nutmeg are best. When well mixed, tie the meat up securely in a clean, strong cloth. Put it into a tray, with a heavy weight upon it, so as to flatten it into a good shape. Leave it till the next day. Then slice thin for breakfast or luncheon. Serve vinegar with it. Veal and Ham Loaf. Chop equal quantities of cold boiled ham and cold veal fine and separately. Boil six eggs hard, and chop them also. Butter a pudding-dish. Put in it first a layer of veal, sprinkle pepper over it, and moisten it with water or a little Worcestershire Sauce. Then put a layer of ham, and then of eggs, with pepper and salt over them. Keep on in this way till the dish is full. If the ham has some fat with it you will not need to add butter ; but if not, put a few lumps of butter on the top. Cover the dish and bake slowly for four hours. Then set in a cool place, with a heavy weight upon it. Next day, turn it out, and cut in thin slices at the table. Serve olives with it. Jellied Veal. Wash a knuckle of veal, and cut it into three pieces, the bones being well cracked. Boil slowly in cold water till the bones are ready to slip out. Take the meat from the liquor, remove all the bones, and chop the meat very fine. Season with salt, pepper, a little mace and thyme, Luncheon. 81 or sage. Add two shallots chopped as fine as possible. Put all back into the liquor and boil until it is almost dry, and can be stirred with difficulty. Turn into a mould till next day ; then turn out on a platter, and garnish with parsley, or slices of pickled beets. The juice of a lemon stirred in just before taking it from the fire is an improvement. A more Economical Way is, to take the veal from the liquor when that is reduced one half (saving it for stock for soup). Add bread or cracker-crumbs (nearly half the quantity you have of veal) and one or two chopj>ed hard- boiled eggs (also a little cold rice, if you like). Season to taste, with herbs, and mix well. Moisten with the stock, and pack down hard in a wet mould. This is very good. Veal Loaf. (For Twenty Persons.) 4 pounds raw veal steak. 1 slice salt pork. 3 pounded Boston crackers. 2 eggs (beaten slightly). 1 tablespoonful sage (or 1 nut- meg). 1 tablespoonful pepper. 1 tablespoonful salt. Butter size of egg (melted). Chop the steak and pork very fine. Add the other things, and mix all well together. Butter a deep square pan. Pack the mixture down hard into it. Put bits of butter over the top. Grate over that one piece of stale bread. Bake two hours in a slow oven, basting often with water. When cold turn out, and cut in thin slices. This is nice for picnics, cold collations, etc. If served already sliced, a pretty garnish for the platter is "Red Cabbage Pickle," in little heaps. Pressed Chicken. A pair of old fowls may be utilized in this way. Cut them up, after cleaning and washing, and put into a deep 82 How to Cook Well kettle with four quarts of cold water. Cover tightly so as to keep in the steam. Boil slowly till the meat sepa- rates from the bones and the liquor is nearly boiled away. Take it out, put into a pan, and discard all the bones, gristle and skin. Chop coarse ; season with pepper, salt, butter and a little mace. Put it into a wet mould. Pour over it the hot liquor left in the pot, and press it down hard. It will jelly when cold. Another Way is, to take the chicken from the pot when there is still about one pint of liquor left. After seasoning it, press it like " Pressed Corned Beef." Sea- son the hot liquor, and pour it into wet egg-cups. When the chicken is turned out in form, surround it by the little mounds of chicken-jelly, and help one to each person. This chicken jelly is very nourishing as well as appe- tizing to invalids. A pretty way to serve the chicken is to decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with slices of hard-boiled eggs; also thin slices of tongue or ham cut into fancy shapes. Then pack in the meat, and set a weight upon it. When ready to serve dip the mould in warm water and turn out carefully. CROQUETTES, MEAT BALLS, etc. REMARKS. IF these are made of meat, it should be previously cooked. In boiling chickens (or other meat) for cro- quettes, save the water used for cooking them, to make soup. Fairly good croquettes can be made from the meat on a soup-bone, provided it be not boiled till all the good- ness is extracted. Croquettes are boiled in deep lard, like fritters, but the lard need not be as deep. If you lay them in a wire Luncheon. 83 basket to cook they arc much more easily managed. It takes about ten minutes to brown them well. When done, lay them for a moment on soft, thick paper to absorb any grease. The great beauty of croquettes lies in this to have them crisp and brown, yet not greasy. They will bo right if the directions for "Boiling in Lard" are carefully attended to. Serve hot or cold. Croquettes may be made the day before intended for use. This is often convenient, and besides it prevents the smell of grease through the house, which is objectionable at all times, but especially at meal times. When wanted for serving, heat the croquettes in a very hot oven, having laid them on a thick, soft paper on a pan. It is, in my opinion, a real improvement to treat them thus. All of these croquette mixtures may be fried, as well as boiled in deep lard. Made into flat cakes, and browned nicely on both sides, they are called "Meat Balls, Rice Balls " etc. Either as Croquettes or under the latter name they form pleasing side-dishes at any meal. A French Receipt for Croquettes. Cold turkey, veal, or chicken. Vegetables and spices, f Butter size of a walnut 1 3 dessert spoons flour. 2 e ggs (yolks only). Boil the bones of the turkey with a few vegetables (any kinds you choose) and spices. Use only enough water to cover them, and have the sauce pan covered. While they are boiling cut (not chop) the meat very fine in small squares. Run the knife through an onion several times to give a delicate flavor to the meat ; and add a little chopped ham if you like it. Rub the butter and flour to a smooth paste. When the 84 How to Cook Well. goodness is extracted from the bones and vegetables, strain them boiling hot, upon the paste and stir well. While hot, but not boiling, break into the paste the yolks of the eggs beaten well, and stir quickly. Add the meat. Form the croquettes with the hand into pear-shapes. Then "egg and crumb" them. Do this twice. Boil in lard deep enough to cover them well. When done lay on soft paper to absorb the grease. Then stick a sprig of parsley in the small end of each, and serve. Veal or Chicken Croquettes. 1 tablespoonful butter. 4 of an onion (minced very fine). 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 cup veal or chicken broth (or gravy). 1 pound cold veal or chicken (chopped fine). | teaspoonf ul salt. Pinch black or cayenne pepper. 2 eggs (reserving white of one). 1 cup powdered crumbs. Melt the butter in a pan. When hot, add the onion, and let it fry till yellow and tender. Put in the flour, previously rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold water. Stir a few minutes. Then add the broth or gravy, and when that is smoking hot, put in the veal, with the seasoning. Stir and toss till it begins to boil (adding more broth if needed). Remove from the fire, put it on a cold dish and beat in the eggs beaten light. When perfectly cold, form into long, narrow rolls, not too large. Then "egg-and-crumb" them, using the re- served white of the egg. When the lard is ready, drop in the croquettes gently, a few at a time, and brown them nicely. Remove with a perforated ladle, and serve hot. Veal Croquettes (simpler). Chop cold veal very fine. Add salt and pepper and a little ground mace or sage. (Also, a minced onion, if you like it.) Moisten slightly with gravy. With floured hands, make into prettily shaped balls. " Egg-and-crumb " them, then boil in deep lard. Luncheon. 85 Simple Chicken Croquettes. Mince cold chicken. Add a little minced celery and parsley (chopped oysters, too, if you like) season with pep- per, salt, and a little mustard. Moisten with a little gravy or milk. Add one or two beaten eggs. Mix well to- gether, and make into long balls. Boil in deep lard. Philadelphia Chicken Croquettes. 1 pair fowls. 2 unions. 2 carrots. Parsley and thyme (a small bunch). . A few cloves. 1 pound butter. cupful chicken broth. U cupfuls rich cream. Salt and pepper. A a nutmeg (grated). Sweet marjoram. gg (yolks only). Stale bread-crumbs (fine). 1 tablespoon! ul flour. Buy a pair of fowls weighing not less than six pounds the pair. Choose those having the largest amount of breast-meat. Boil the fowls in water enough to cover them, with the onions, carrots, thyme and parsley, and cloves. When tender (in about one and one half hours) take out the fowls, and let them get cold. Then chop very fine. Put the butter into a double-boiler with the flour. Cook together, stirring constantly. Add the broth and cream. Boil eight or ten minutes, still stirring. Remove it from the fire, and mix in the seasoning. Then add the chopped chicken. When well mixed, stir in the beaten yolks of four of the eggs. Set the mixture on the stove for a few minutes to evaporate, stirring briskly all the time. Spread on a platter to cool, and then make into pear-shaped balls. When all are ready dip each into the yolks of the two re- maining eggs, beaten with a little cream. Then roll in bread-crumbs so fine as to have been passed through a sieve. " Boil in lard " like other croquettes. These are the Philadelphia croquettes, so famous everywhere. 86 How to Cook Well. Meat and Rice Croquettes. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 cupful milk. 2 chickens, or two pounds lean beef or veal, chopped fine. 1 tablespoouful chopped onion. 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. i nutmeg. Salt. Pepper, red and black. 2 cups, hot, boiled rice. Put the butter into a skillet on the fire. When it bub- bles stir in the flour, then the milk, and stir until like por- ridge. Have ready mixed the chopped meat and rice with the various seasonings. Stir it into the flour and butter, and cook a few minutes (not too long). Pour the mixture into a shallow dish, and when quite cold, divide and shape into croquettes. Roll first in fine cracker- crumbs, then in egg, and again in cracker, and " boil in lard." Venison or Mutton Croquettes. A pinch of cloves. A little grated lemon peel. 1 egg, beaten light. Cold venison or mutton. Bread or cracker crumbs. Currant jelly. A little hot gravy or stock. Chop the meat, and add about one fifth as much of crumbs. Stir enough jelly into the hot gravy to give a decided flavor. Moisten well the meat. Add seasoning, and egg. Form into croquettes, and " egg-and-crumb " them. Then boil in deep lard. Lamb Croquettes. 4 cupfuls cold chopped lamb. 1 cupful suet, chopped. 1 tablespoonful onion, chopped. A little salt and pepper. 1 lemon. A little cream. A little parsley, chopped. Mix all well together, using both juice and grated rind of the lemon, and enough cream to bind all together. Shape prettily with floured hands. "Egg-and-crumb" them ; then boil in deep lard. A little rice may be added if liked or bread crumbs. Luncheon. 87 Beef Croquettes. Chop together cold beef (already cooked) and one quarter of an onion. (The latter may be omitted.) Sea- son with salt, popper, sweet marjoram, and thyme. Mois- ten with a little gravy and form into balls. Have ready a beaten egg. Dip each ball into this, then into line crumbs or flour, and boil in deep lard. Hap-Hazard Croquettes. (Chicken, Beef, Mutton, Veal, or FLsh.) Mince fine the meat. Add one quarter as much of bread or cracker-crumbs with chicken, mutton, or veal (one quarter as much potato with beef or fish) ; moisten with gravy or drawn butter, and mix in a beaten egg. Season with pepper and salt; if beef, add marjoram; if chicken, the chopped yolk of a hard boiled egg; if mutton, "Claret Syrup;" if fish, catsup. Form into balls, "egg-and- crumb" them, and boil in deep lard. Meat Balls. These may be made of any kind of cold meat, chopped fine, seasoned highly, and moistened with a little gravy or one egg (yolk only) beaten light. With floured hands form into balls, flatten the top and bottom of each, and dredge on a little flour. Have ready a hot frying-pan, in which a large tablespoonf ul beef-dripping has been melted. Lay in the meat balls, and when brown on one aide, turn on the other. Have them over a hot fire, so that they will not dry out. Serve at once, before they lose their crispness. If you have not much meat add a little cold chopped or mashed potato. Even bread or cracker-crumbs (a feic) may be used, if well seasoned. Chopped herbs are an agreeable addition. 88 How to Cook Well. Lobster, or Crab Croquettes. 1 lobster or 6 crabs, boiled. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 2 eggs, boiled hard. 1 teaspoonf ul anchovy sauce. A little salt. A little cayenne pepper. A pinch of mace. A pinch of lemon peel, grated. 1 teaspoonf ul lemon juice. Mince the meat. Melt the butter. When a little cool rub it into the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs. Mix this with the meat, then add the other things in order. With floured hands, make into oblong balls, and " boil in lard " like other croquettes. Serve slices of lemon with them, as a garnish for the dish and an additional relish. Fish Croquettes. Pound in a mortar, any kind of cold, boiled fish ; mix with it a hard boiled egg, chopped fine. Make a batter, in the proportion of one tablespoonful of milk, two of flour, and one egg beaten light, with a little salt and a dash of red pepper. Stir in the fish, make into balls, dredge them with flour, and boil in deep lard. Oyster Croquettes. 50 medium-sized oysters. 4 tablespoonfuls butter. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. i cupful cream. 1 dessertspoonful parsley (chopped) . A small piece onion (chopped). Pepper and salt. A little grated nutmeg. Scald the oysters five minutes and drain dry. Then chop them into rough pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles, stir in the flour. Add the cream by degrees. When it boils add the nutmeg. Take from the fire, and mix with the oysters. Then stir in the other things. When the mixt- ure is cold, roll into shapes on a floured board. "Egg-and crumb" them, then boil quickly in deep lard. Luncheon. 89 Codfish Balls. Soak the codfish over night, and let it simmer till tender. (See Stewed Codfish.) Tick the fish into shreds, freeing it from all bits of bone. To one part fish, put two parts hot boiled potatoes. Mash both together with a potato- masher till the pulp is thoroughly blended. Add while hot, a large lump of butter, and milk or cream to make it very smooth and soft. Put in a very little salt and pep- per. With floured hands, form into flattened balls. Have ready in the frying-pan three or four slices of salt pork, fried till crisp. Take them out ; and into the hot fat, lay the balls. Let them brown nicely on one side, keeping the pan over the hottest part of the fire ; then turn, and brown the other. These Codfish Balls are warranted perfect, if made ac- cording to direction. Never content yourself with chop- ping either fish or potato. If you cannot mix in the potato hot, use cold mashed potato, left from yesterday's dinner. Frying them in salt pork gives them a good rich flavor ; but if you prefer, they may be boiled in deep lard. In this case, form the balls perfectly round. Fish Balls. Take half cold or hot mashed potato and half fresh fish (any kind, cooked). Chop the fish into the potato, and mix well. Season to taste. Moisten with milk (or "Fish Sauce," or "Drawn Butter," if you have any on hand). Form into balls, flour, and fry them, or boil them in deep lard. Excellent fish balls may be made of cold salmon or mackerel, or blue fish ; and in this way, even a small quantity of fish left from dinner may be saved. Canned fish does very well for this purpose. 90 How to Cook Well. Potato Balls. Take cold, ftiashed potato left from dinner. With floured hands, form into flattened balls. Have ready in a hot frying-pan, one tablespoonful of ham or beef drippings, or lard. Put in the potato balls, and fry over a very hot fire, so that they will have a tender crust. It is an im- provement to moisten the potato with milk and butter. The ham drippings give a good flavor. Potato Croquettes. 2 cupf uls mashed potato. A little milk or cream. A little melted butter. 1 egg (yolk only). i of a nutmeg, nearly (may be omitted). A large pinch cayenne pepper. A little salt. A little parsley, chopped (may be omitted). Moisten the potato with the milk, butter and egg (beaten) and add the seasoning. Beat all together. Make into long rolls. Dip first in beaten egg, then in fine crumbs or flour, and boil in deep lard. These break so easily that it is well to put them into a wire basket, which can be plunged into the lard, and the whole of the croquettes taken out at once. Drain well, and dish at once. Potato Pears. Made like " Potato Croquettes," only shape them like pears, and stick a clove at the small end for a stem, and put a tiny bit of parsley at the blossom end. Rice Croquettes. 1 pint cold boiled rice. 4 tablespoonf uls boiling hot 4 tablespoonful melted butter. 1 or -2 eggs, beaten. milk. Soak the rice a few minutes in the milk. Mix in the butter and eggs (or the yolks or whites alone), and with Luncheon. 91 floured bands form into long rolls. " Egg-and-crumb " them and boil in deep lard, in a wire basket, if you have one. It is an improvement to add a few fine cracker-crumbs. Hominy (line) may be substituted for the rice, or may be mixed with it. To vary them, add, after the eggs, the juice and half the grated rind of a lemon or orange. Bice Balls. 1 pint cold boiled rice. A littlr salt. 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 egg (may be omitted). 1 tablespoonful melted butter. Mix together, having beaten the egg. Make into floured balls, flatten them, and fry in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted a large table-spoonful of lard. Fry quickly and serve at once, while crisp. PATES. Make a good " Puff Paste." Set it in a cold place, for at least half an hour, to become crisp. Roll it out quickly about one quarter of an inch thick, cut with a biscuit-cut- ter into rounds. With a smaller cutter cut the centre from two rounds, and place the circles left, on one which is whole. This will make a little hollow dish of crust. Lay them all, when prepared, in a floured baking-tin. Bake them in a quick oven. When lightly browned, glaze them, by brushing each over with white of egg, and return to the oven for a minute. Pate's are filled with various mixtures, and are served hot. They are favorites for luncheon, and are not ex- travagant, 88 the remains of almost any kind of meat, game, fish, or oysters, can be served up temptingly in this way by a skilful housewife. To vary them bake also the rounds cut from the centre 92 How to Cook Well. of the pates, and use them for covers when the pates are served. Or the crust may be baked in little tins, called patty pans. For filling, use any of the following receipts, or those for croquettes. Set back in the oven till the filling is hot. Bread Pat6s. Cut slices of stale bread one inch thick. Cut into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. With a smaller cutter mark a circle within and remove the bread to the depth of half an inch. Dip these into beaten egg. Sift powdered cracker over them and boil in deep lard, delicately brown. Lay them on brown paper to absorb the grease, then arrange upon a hot platter, and fill them with any kind of nicely-seasoned hot minced meat, moistened slightly. Chicken or turkey is best. Serve hot. These are much more quickly and easily made than ordinary pates, and it is a good way to use up stale bread. The bread that is scooped out should be put into the bread-crumb box. Oyster Pates. (No. 1.) With a sharp knife cut oysters into pieces. Heat them in a little of their own liquor, just enough to cover them. Make a "Drawn Butter" sauce, and stir the minced oysters into it while on the fire. Stew about five minutes, stirring all the time. Fill "Pates" with the mixture. Set them in the oven till hot. Serve hot. No. 2. Scald the oysters in their own liquor ; then dip them out with a perforated skimmer. Leave only enough juice in the pan to cover the oysters. Skim well. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of flour, and two of butter, and stir them into the boiling liquor. This should make it as rich as thick cream. If not, use more butter and flour. Season with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper. When it has boiled a few minutes remove, and pour it over the Luncheon. 93 yolks of two or three well-beaten eggs, stirring fast. Add the oysters and return the whole to the tire, for a mo- ment, but do not boil. Have ready the " Pates." Fill them at once. Sprinkle with cracker-crumbs, and brown quickly on the top shelf of the oven. If you have oysters left over, put them in a dish, and pass around, so that each person can have a second helping. Pish Pates. Take the remains of baked, boiled, or canned fish of any kind. Prepare as for " Fish Balls ; " moisten with melted butter, or egg, or " White Sauce ; " season highly with Worcestershire Sauce or any thing you prefer. Fill the " Pates " ; set in the oven to get hot, and serve hot. Squeeze a few drops of lemon over the fish at table from slices of lemon, which should be served with the p&tes. Chicken, or Veal Pates. Prepare the chicken as for " Croquettes". Fill " Pete's," and heat through in a hot oven. These are good cold as well as hot, and are an accept- able addition to a picnic basket. FRITTERS. REMARKS. Do not attempt to make fritters unless you have plenty of time. It will take half an hour to fry enough for a small family, and they must be watched carefully if you aim at success. Before making fritters read over "How to Boil in Lard." Use one or two pounds of fresh lard. It should be at least two inches deep; a greater depth will be necessary if you are going to make a large quantity of fritters. 94 How to Cook Well. Test the lard by trying one spoonful of batter before put- ting in more. If hot enough, the batter will rise to the surface quickly, dancing about and browning soon. If it is slow in rising wait to put in the fritters till you have increased the heat of the lard. There is such a thing as haivng it too hot, however. In this case the fritters will brown before swelling to their full size, and will be doughy inside. Put in only a few fritters at a time, dropping them in from a spoon. Turn when brown on one side. They will be done in about eight minutes. When ready pile on a hot platter. If for dessert, sift sugar over them while hot. Plain Fritters. 1 pint flour (or enough for a rather thick batter). 3 eggs, beaten light. i teaspoonful salt. 1 pint milk. Beat all well together. Drop into hot lard at once, and boil according to directions. Serve hot for dessert, with syrup, or sugar and cider ; or for breakfast. Two eggs only will do, if you add to a part of the flour one teaspoonful of baking powder. Snow Fritters. 1 pint milk. 2 teaspoonfuls salt. Flour to make a rather thick batter. 1 cupful rceto-fallen light snow. Have the lard heating, when you begin to mix the frit- ters. Beat hard before putting in the snow. ' Get that at the last moment, and the instant it is mixed in, drop the batter by spoonfuls into the hot lard. Serve for dessert, or tea with sugar sifted over. If quickly and properly made, these are the lightest and nicest of all fritters. Luncheon. 95 Bell Fritters. 1 pint water, boiling. 1 1 pint flour. Butter, size of an egg. I 6 eggs. Boil the -butter with the water. Remove from the fire, pour instantly over the flour and mix smooth. While still hot, add the eggs, one at a time, beating each egg alone. Stir fast, so they will not curdle. Beat hard and boil iii deep lard. Serve with sugar, or pudding sauce. Bannocks. ( 1 pint corn meal. I Boiling water. A little salt. 1 egg (beaten light). 1 tablespoonful cream or melted butter. Pour over the corn meal enough boiling water to thor- oughly moisten it. Let it stand a few minutes. Then add the other things. With floured hands make into balls, and boil in deep lard. Serve hot, with syrup, for break- fast, tea, or a plain dessert. Bread Fritters. Cut stale bread into slices one inch thick. Cut the soft part into any pretty shape. A good way is to cut into rings, by using biscuit-cutters of two sizes. You can then use the small circle, as well as the ring. Soak each piece a few minutes in milk or custard. (Save the crusts for the stale-crumb box.) Then drop into deep lard, and boil delicately. Sprinkle with sugar. Dough Fritters. Roll out and cut into cubes or fancy figures, light bread- dough. Boil at once in deep lard, and sprinkle with sugar. Mock Doughnuts. A few stale rolls. 1 cup milk. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 4 tcaspoonfnl cinnamon. 3 eggs (yolks only). 1 cupful powdered crackers. teaspoonful nutmeg. Cut off the crust, and trim the rolls into round balls. 96 How to Cook Well. Mix the milk, sugar and spices in a deep pan. Lay the rolls in, and wet them thoroughly on all sides. Let them soak in the milk a few minutes. Then " Egg-and-crumb " them. Boil in deep lard. Drain, and serve hot with sauce for dessert. Apple Fritters. ( lh cupfuls flour. I teaspoonf ul cream tartar. 1 cupful sour milk. i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 1 egg, beaten light. A pinch of salt. 24 cups chopped apple. Mix the cream of tartar through the flour. Put in the other ingredients, and beat hard. Boil in deep lard at once. Serve for dessert or lunch with " Molasses Sauce." Another Way. See the following receipt. Apple, Orange or Banana Fritters. Core tart apples, and cut them in slices one third of an inch thick. Peel and divide oranges into sections. Peel and slice bananas. Make a batter as for "Plain Frit- ters." Have the lard ready, and just before boiling the fritters stir in the fruit lightly. Dip up one piece of fruit in each spoonful of batter you drop into the lard. Sift sugar over the fritters as soon as done, and serve at once, with sugar. Potato Fritters. 4 cupfuls mashed potato. I teaspoonf ul salt. * pound butter (melted). 1 pint milk. 1 cupful flour. 2 eggs (well beaten). Beat to a stiff batter. Boil in deep lard, dropping in the spoonfuls of batter with great care, so as not to break the fritters. LuncJwon. 97 Rice Fritters. 1 cupful boiled rice. 1 cupful milk. i teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). 1 cupful flour. 2 teaspoonfuls butter (melted). 3 eggs (well beaten). Mix, and boil in deep lard, beating up the batter every time before dropping in more fritters. To Vary them, add half a lemon-peel, grated ; a little grated nutmeg, and one third of a cupful of Zante cur- rants, rubbed through the flour, with four tablespoon fills of sugar. Squash or Pea Fritters. 1 egg, beaten light. teaspoonf ul salt. {1 A cupfuls milk. I teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). Flour to make a thick batter, li cups peas or winder squash (boiled). Mix together, and beat well. Boil in deep lard. The peas or squash should be mashed smooth. The peas will mash more easily if wet gradually with zfew spoonfuls of hot milk. These are delicious. A good way to use squash or peas "leftover." Corn Oysters. 1 pint grated sweet corn. 2 eggs, beaten light. ( 1 cupful flour. I A teaspoonf ul baking powder. | cupful butter melted (less will do). 1 cupful milk. 1 teaspoonful salt \ teaspoonful pepper. Mix well (one egg will do if you use the full amount of butter), and drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard. Each should be the size of an oyster. It will take about twelve ears of corn to make a pint 98 How to Cook Well grated. This is a good way to use up corn which is no longer young. These fritters are favorites everywhere. They may be fried like griddle-cakes, if you choose, with but a little lard ; in this case use only about two table- spoonfuls of flour. Corn Fritters. 6 ears corn. f 2 tablespoonf uls flour. A little salt and pepper. teaspoonf ul baking powder. 1 egg (beaten light). Slit each row of grains with a sharp knife, then scrape from the cob. Add the seasoning and egg. Mix the baking-powder with the flour, and stir it thoroughly through the corn. Drop by spoonfuls into boiling butter and lard mixed, just deep enough to cover the fritters. Boiled corn may be used for these, though it is not so good. In this case use a little milk. Oyster Fritters. (No. 1.) Make a batter as for " Plain Fritters," using the liquor from the oysters in place of half the milk, and omitting salt. Dip each oyster in the batter, and boil in deep lard. Serve, with squares of lemon, on a small dish, to accom- pany them. No. 2, The same as above, but make the batter thin- ner, and chop the oysters, which are then mixed through the batter. Use one half a tablespoonful of the batter to each fritter. Boil and serve as above. Clam Fritters. 1 cupful clams (chopped). 1 cupful milk. Salt and pepper. 1 egg (beaten well). Flour. teaspoonful soda, dissolved. (Measure the clams after they are taken from the shell.) Add the liquor from the clams to the milk. Add the egg, with salt and pepper, and flour enough for a rather thick batter. Then mix in the clams ; and just before frying, Luncheon. 99 bent in the soda. Use half a tablespoonful of batter to each fritter. N. B. If you cannot get the clams already opened, see " To Open Clams. " Other Dishes for Luncheon. (See Index.) Bouillon, etc. Stick bread. Fresh fish (all kinds). Canned salmon (various ways). Oysters and clams (various ways). Chicken, lamb or veal Curry. Game and poultry. Meat pies. Steak, chops, cutlets. Beefsteak with baked toma- toes. Stuffed beefsteak. Mock duck. Broiled chicken. Fried chicken. Fried chicken with cream gravy. Fried chicken with mush cakes. Smothered chicken. Stewed potatoes. Stewed potatoes with gravy. Potatoes and cream. Baked potatoes (Irish and sweet). Stuffed potatoes. Lyonnaise potatoes. Raw tomatoes. Escaloped tomatoes. Macaroni with oysters. Macaroni and ham. Egg-plant (fried). Salads of all kinds. Baked and stewed fruits. Gingerbread, and cake. Blanc-mange, custards and other delicacies. Tea, coffee, cocoa, chocolate. DINNER. SOUP. REMARKS. THE best housekeepers consider no dinner well ordered which is not begun by soup ; but even where this practice does not prevail, for the sake of economy soup should ap- pear on the table once or twice a week, at least in cold weather. Many remnants left from dinner can be used in this way, and made into excellent soup, if proper attention is paid to seasoning. Even in a rich soup this is most im- portant. Success in this line can only be assured in one way, and that is, by tasting ; for if you merely guess at the amount of salt, pepper and spice which will be re- quired you run the risk of ruining the soup by putting in too much, on the one hand, and of leaving it insipid, on the other. Soup meat should, in every case, be boiled the day be- fore the soup is to be served, so as to give time for the liquor to become perfectly cold. The fat will then rise to the top in a hard mass, and can be entirely removed ; whereas no amount of "skimming" can take off all the grease while it is hot. A greasy soup should never find place on the table of any careful housekeeper, or one who regards the health of her family. In buying meat for soup choose a shank of mutton, shin of beef, or knuckle of veal. Have the butcher crack the bones in every part. The bones are as valuable as the meat itself, owing to the gelatine in them, which imparts a peculiar richness. You can often get odds and ends of 100 Dirtoito*. meat, which the butchers call " trimmings, " to put with these. Do not mix mutton with other kinds of meat, but beef, veal, and poultry all go well together. Remember, however, that one can make very good soup without buying anything for it. Always boil what is left from a roast of beef or mutton. This is worth while even when the bone is almost bare if you put with it the re- mains of any hash or stew you may have. These, boiled with a ham-bone or the ragged ends and bones of a beef- steak, will make a stock not to be despised. The bones of poultry and game make a delicious soup. To boil meat for soup see " Stock. " By " Stock " is meant the basis of soup. It is obtained by extracting the juices of meat and bones by long boil- ing. If strong, it will form a jelly when cold. When wanted for soup, heat it and it will return to a liquid state. Unless you want a very rich soup, add water to it; that in which vegetables have been boiled is best (even if vegetables are to be added), for it often contains much richness and good flavor. N. B. The meat on a soup-bone should be chopped and used for hash or croquettes, unless all the goodness has gone out of it. SEASONINGS, THICKENINGS, AND ACCOM- PANIMENTS TO SOUP. Spices, etc. Sweet marjoram and cloves are suited to any dark- colored soup ; summer savory and sage to that which is light-colored. Mace particularly suits chicken and oyster soups. Never put nutmeg or cinnamon in soup. Miscellaneous Seasoning. " Burnt sugar " gives a good color to soup. So also does " Claret Syrup," and it tastes well. Wine is good in soup, lt)2T : ^ow W ^Cook Well. especially brown sherry ; it should not be put in till the soup is in the tureen, or it may cause it to curdle. The spiced vinegar from Sweet Pickle or Chow-chow is good ; or a spoonful of piccalily may be put in. Capers and nas- turtiums are favorites with some. Claret Syrup. 1 quart claret. 2 pounds white sugar. 1 teaspoonful whole mace. 1 teaspoonful allspice. 1 teaspoonful whole cloves. Put all together in a sauce-pan, and boil half an hour. Let it become cold. Bottle it and cork. Use a few spoonfuls at a time, to mix with soup, hash, stews, etc. Burnt Sugar. 1 pound brown sugar. | 1 pint cold water. Put the dry sugar into a sauce-pan. Let it melt and become brown. Then add the water. Let it boil, stir- ring it, for ten minutes. Pour it off into a bottle, and keep it corked tight. Use a few spoonfuls at a time. Thickenings for Soup. Soup may be thickened very delicately by using the water from boiled hominy (large). One may judge how rich this is by the fact that it will jelly when cold. Mashed potato, either hot or cold, wet to a paste with a little of the hot soup before adding it, is also delicate. The pulp of boiled peas and beans makes a variety in thickening, and so does stewed tomato. But the commonest way is, to rub smooth a little flour in a little cold water, and stir it in while the soup is boil- ing fast. Be careful not to use too much. It will be found useful chiefly when the soup is not very rich. In rich soups no such thickening is required. Cracker and bread-crumbs, rice, vermicelli, macaroni and tapioca, barley and sago are all used in soup. Dinner. 103 Force-Meat Balls. Cliop fine the meat used to make the soup or any cold meat. Season it with pepper, salt, minced onion (fried), and sweet marjoram, a little lemon juice, and grated peel. Mix in the beaten yolk of one egg, and a sprinkling of flour. Form the mixture into balls the size of a large marble. Fry them in a little butter and drop into the soup after it is in the tureen. Omit the onion and lemon if you like. Croutons. Cut stale bread into pieces the size of small dice. Put in a frying-pan, containing a tablespoonful of very hot butter. Turn them on all sides, to fry crisp. Another way is, to put the bread, after cutting it into dice, in a pan, in a slow oven. Let it become crisp and brown. Squares of Toast arc nice in any kind of broth, especially chicken. Or, in- stead of serving the dice in the broth, have them in a veg- etable dish, and let each one help himself, with a spoon. Batter Balls. f 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 2 tablespoonf uls milk. 1 egg, beaten light. Rub the flour and milk to a paste. Beat in the egg. When the soup is boiling hard, drop in the batter, a tea- spoonful at a time. Boil three minutes. Sliced Hard-Boiled Egg. Thick slices of egg may be dropped in when the soup is served. These may be accompanied by slices of lemon, or the lemon may be used without the egg. 104 How to Cook Well. Stock for Soup. "Remarks on Soup" will tell what meat is best to buy. Have the bones well cracked. Weigh them and the meat together. To each pound, put one and one half quarts of cold water, and allow for the boiling an hour to each pound. Throw in a tablespoonful of salt, the more thor- oughly to extract the juices. Cover the pot, and put it on the fire. Boil very slowly, skimming occasionally. When the bones separate from the meat, and the meat looks tough and dry, it is time to set the pot off. Strain the liquor into a clean crock, and set away in a cold place, covered only by a cloth. (If covered tight it will ferment.) The next day skim off all the fat from the top, and you have left a rich jellied mass to dip from every time you want to make soup. When warmed, it will re- turn to a liquid state. For a family of six, two quarts of this Stock will be required. Add vegetables, or vary the seasoning each day. Bouillon. This is simply a rich " Stock " made from beef alone, seasoned only with salt and pepper ; without vegetables or any other addition. Mock Turtle Soup. 1 onion sliced. h dozen cloves. A bunch of herbs. A little pepper and salt. 1 calf's head. 5 quarts cold water. 1 tablespoonf ul salt. 1 carrot sliced. 1 turnip sliced. Soak the calf's head in cold water enough to cover it, for one hour. Wash clean and take out the brains. Then boil the head slowly in the five quarts of water, till very tender, and the meat will fall easily from the bones (three or four hours). Dinner. 105 Add the salt as soon as it begins to boil, and skim thor- oughly. Tie the brains in a piece of rauslin and boil with the hea8; the last twenty minutes. Strain the liquor and set aside till next day in a cold place. Remove the fat and put the liquor on to boil with the vegetables and seasoning. Boil slowly two hours. Strain and return it to the soup kettle, adding a little beef stock if more soup is needed. Have ready some pieces of meat taken from the top of the head and cheeks, when cold, and cut into small squares. Put these into the liquor. Have ready also force-meat balls made as follows : A pinch of salt. A little sweet marjoram. A little powdered clove. 2 eggs (beaten). Some of the meat and brains. An equal quantity fine bread- crumbs. 1 onion (minced). A dash cayenne pepper. Chop the meat fine, and mix well with the other things. With floured hands make into balls the size of a large marble. Drop into a frying-pan, containing enough boil- ing butter to brown them well. When done and the soup is boiling well, drop them in, pouring in also the melted butter in which they were fried. Add one tablespoonful browned flour, rubbed to a paste in cold water, and boil about three minutes. Stir in the juice of a lemon, if you like, just before serving. Beef Soup. Buy a shin of beef. Have the butcher crack the bones. The day before you mean to have the soup, boil the shin, allowing one and one half quarts of cold water to each pound of beef. (For boiling see "Stock for Soup.") After removing the fat the next day, put two quarts of the liquor (stock) on the fire to boil. Heat slowly. Let it begin to boil about fifteen minutes before dinner. Salt and pepper it judiciously, then ; and add a few blades of 106 How to Cook Well. mace, a few whole cloves, a pinch of allspice, and sweet marjoram. Be careful not to season too highly. Taste it, before putting in all the spices. If too strong of these, omit the remaining ones. When seasoned, pour in two tablespoonfuls of vermi- celli or macaroni with the water in which it has been boil- ing for fifteen minutes. Let all simmer together till din- ner time. After the soup is in the tureen, stir in one tablespoonful Worcestershire Sauce and a tablespoonful "Burnt Sugar" (these are not essential). If you have it, add at the last moment a glass of brown sherry. Veal Soup. ( A knuckle of veal (weighing about 3 pounds). 1 4 quarts cold water. J cup tapioca, soaked. Boil the veal with the water about three hours, and set it away. When cold, skim it. Bring it to a boil about twenty minutes before dinner, when add the tapioca, pre- viously boiled for ten minutes. Simmer till this is tender, season and serve. Noodle Soup. Boil two pounds veal, or one chicken till the meat slips from the bones, skimming well. Strain and season. Have ready the following : Noodles. Beat up one egg, and add a little salt and flour enough to make a stiff dough. Roll out into a very thin sheet. Dry one hour. Then cut into two-inch squares. Cut these with scissors into shavings about one eighth of an inch wide. Dredge with flour, to keep them from adher- ing together, and drop into the soup while it is boiling fast. Boil ten minutes without stopping. Enough for five. Noodles will keep a long time. Dinner. 107 Mutton or Lamb Broth. {4 pounds mutton or lamb. A tablcspoonful salt. quarts water. 4 tablespoon! uls raw rice. Boil the meat in the water, with the salt, for about five hours, not allowing it to boil fast. Strain and set aside to become cold. Remove every bit of grease (this is especially important if the broth is intended for an in- valid). Set back on the stove, and when the broth begins to boil add the rice, with the water in which it has been soaking for about twenty minutes. Boil all together twenty minutes. Good mutton-broth is also made of the water in which a leg of mutton has been boiled. Allow to each quart and a half, one tablespoonfui raw rice (soaked). Add season- ing, and boil. If not intended for an invalid, capers may be added. Chicken Broth. Buy an old fowl. It makes better broth than a young one, if not too old. Weigh it, and cut it into small pieces, removing the skin and cracking the bones well. Proceed as with " Stock." Next day, or when thoroughly cold, take off the fat, and to each one and one half quarts of stock allow one tablespoonfui raw rice. Proceed as with " Mutton Broth." Add a little parsley if you like. Chicken or Turksy Soup. Make this of the water in which chickens have been boiled ; or of the bones, stuffing and gravy of roast chick- ens or turkey. Thicken with a little rice or cracker- crumbs, and season with minced celery, and a few blades 108 How to Cook Well. of mace, if you like. Serve with or without "Croutons." If you wish it richer, add a slice of salt pork while boil- ing, and cream before serving. Chicken or Turkey Soup with Oysters. Make a good broth by the preceding receipt. When it boils up, omit the rice, but put in a short time before serv- ing, the liquor from three pints of oysters. Add the oys- ters at the last moment, as they should not be allowed to boil till tough. Put in a pinch of cayenne pepper and a very little pow- dered mace. For this soup, the remains of a dish of " Escalloped Oys- ters," or of " Stewed Oysters " may be used being sure not to let the oysters boil. A good addition is, a little celery, cut into fine bits, and boiled with the soup. t White Soup, c 1 quart chicken broth ( or any \ clear stock). I li cupfuls cream or milk. 1 egg (yolk only) or li tablespoonfuls mashed po- tato. Pepper and salt. Croutons (may be omitted). Heat together the broth and cream. As soon as it boils, pour it over the egg (beaten light) in the tureen^ stirring fast to prevent curdling. Season, and serve with or with- out " Croutons," or squares of toast. If you do not use the egg, stir in the potato (previously rubbed to a paste with a little of the broth) while the broth is boiling. Add if you like a few neatly-cut squares of chicken. This makes but a small quantity ; for a family of four. Very delicate and delicious ; it is much relished by in- valids. It is nicest with the egg. Dinner. 109 Fotage & la Heine. 3 c.^gs hard boiled, (yolks only). cupful bread or cracker- crumbs. A little milk. White meat of a boiled chicken. 1 pint hot cream. Liquor from chicken, hot. Salt. Pepper. Celery salt. A little chopped onion, if de- sired. Mash fine the yolks of the eggs ; soak the bread-crumbs in the milk and mix with the eggs. Chop the white meat of the chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the egg and bread paste. Add the hot cream slowly, and then nib all into the well-seasoned hot liquor, using one quart or more. Boil five minutes. Add more salt if needed ; and if too thick, add a little milk ; or if not thick enough, add more cracker-crumbs. This is said to be a favorite with Queen Victoria. Save-all Soup. Save up beef-bones from roast beef and steak, using also any scraps of underdone meat (even hash, if not cooked too long). In cold weather they will keep for nearly a week, in a cold place, covered. In the meantime collect what is left in the vegetable dishes from day to day, using rice, macaroni, tomatoes, peas or beans (the latter should be mashed smooth). If you have not these, a little mashed potato will be useful. The day before you mean to have the soup boil the bones slowly for two hours. Strain and set aside. Next day skim, and set on the fire half an hour before dinner, with any cold gravy you may have. When it boils, add the cold vegetables, according to judg- ment. Season with salt, pepper, summer savory and thyme, also a little Worcestershire Sauce, if you like, or catsup. 110 How to Cook Well N. B. Do not tell the family what it is made of, and they will eat it with a good relish, if seasoned properly ! Another way is to use mutton bones, adding the re- mains of chops and cutlets if you have them. Use to- mato (cooked and strained) for thickening ; it " goes well " with mutton. Add rice, too, if you like, or a little mashed potato. Capers or chopped pickle are a pleasant addition. Asparagus Soup. 2 quarts " Stock" (veal is best), f 2 bunches asparagus. 1 2 small slices salt pork. A little pepper. Cut off the tender tips of asparagus, and lay aside while the rest (cut into pieces) is boiling in as little water as possible, with the pork. When tender, strain the water through a colander into the stock, and pulp the asparagus into it, but leave out the pork. Add the asparagus tips and the pepper and boil gently twenty minutes. Serve. Vegetable Soup. 2 potatoes. 1 a small turnip. 2 medium-sized carrots. 1 large onion (minced). 1 stick celery (minced). 1 quart water. 2 quarts rich " Stock." Pepper and salt. Grate fine the potatoes, turnip and carrots. Put them with the onion and celery in the water, and boil slowly for one hour from the time they begin to boil. Then add stock and seasoning, and boil all together about twenty minutes. Serve without straining out the vegetables. Or, the vegetables may be sliced, and all boiled to- gether with the stock for one and one half hours. Strain and serve. Dinner. Ill Okra or Gumbo Soup. 1 handful parsley (chopped). Plenty of okra (sliced thiii). Boiling water. Salt and pepper (cayenne). 2 tablespoonfuls lard. 2 teaspoonfuls flour. 1 good fat chicken. 1 thick slice ham. 1 onion (chopped fine). Put the lard into the soup-pot. When very hot, stir into it the flour. Have ready the chicken, cut into pieces, and the ham, cut small. Put them into the boiling lard, and fry them to a light brown. While they are frying add the onion and parsley. Put in the okra when the chicken is partly done, and fry with the rest till it is dissolved. Then add the water ; the quantity depending upon the quantity of okra used. Season well. Stew gently for three hours. To vary the Soup, add tomatoes sometimes ; or oysters (as many as you like) with their liquor, or three or four crabs, broken in pieces. Black Bean Soup. 1 cup black kidney beans. 3 pints cold water. 1 quart stock. \ teaspoonful cloves, ground. 1 hard-boiled egg. 1 lemon. Salt and pepper. Soak the beans over night ; then put them in the water, and boil slowly until perfectly tender. Strain through a colander. Add stock and seasoning ; return to the kettle, and simmer a few minutes. Rub the yolk of the egg to a paste, with a little of the hot liquor, and add it to the soup, with the white of the egg cut into dice. Have ready the lemon, sliced very thin, in the bottom of the tureen. Pour the hot soup over it and serve. If you wish the soup very nice, add two or three table- spoonfuls of sherry wine. The red kidney beans make a good soup in the same way. 112 How to Cook Well. Bean Soup. (Navy Beans.) Soak one quart navy beans over night. In the morn- ing boil them in two quarts cold water. When tender rub them through a sieve, mashing to a soft pulp. Put them in the soup-pot, with the water in which they were boiled. Add water in which roast beef bones have been boiled, and season with pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, thyme and four or five cloves. Boil fifteen minutes or longer, and serve. If too thick, add water. Another way is, to boil with the beans a quarter of a pound of salt pork, also one carrot and three onions sliced. Pulp all together through a colander. Season, add a few cloves ; heat again and serve, without the ad- dition of stock. Good bean soup can be made of cold "Baked Beans." Use what is left for " Bean and Tomato Soup." Bean and Tomato Soup. Add stewed tomatoes (previously passed through a colander) to "Bean Soup" or "Baked Beans"; the latter are best. If you use "Baked Beans," boil them in a little water, and pulp them also through a colander; season, and add as much boiling water as is necessary. Spiced Tomato Soup. 2 quarts " Stock." 1 table spoonfuls raw rice (washed). 1 pint " Stewed Tomatoes" (or canned). Pepper and salt. A few whole cloves. Put the Stock on to boil, or use water in which roast meat bones have been boiled. When boiling throw in the rice and tomatoes. Season with pepper, salt, and cloves, and boil for half an hour. Dinner. 113 Or you can use what is left from dinner of rice and tomatoes. What soup is left, use to moisten hash. It makes a good seasoning. Tomato Soup. (No. 1.) 2i quarts beef "stock." 2 onions, sliced. 1 carrot sliced. 1 turnip sliced. 2 quarts stewed tomatoes (or canned). {I pound butter. 3 tablespoonf uls flour. 4 teaspoonfuls sugar. Salt and pepper. Put on the stock to boil with the vegetables, and boil all together three quarters of an hour. Then strain. Wash the soup-pot and dry it. Then put the butter in it ; when it is hot, add the flour. Mix it well. Pour the soup over it. Then season. Boil up once. Skim it, and pour into the tureen. Makes four quarts of soup. SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. Tomato Soup. (No. 2.) 1 quart sliced tomatoes. 1 quart boiling water. 1 teaspoonf ul soda, dry. 1 tablespoonful butter. Salt, and red pepper. Fine cracker-crumbs. 1 quart milk. Boil the tomatoes in the water until perfectly tender (about one hour) and strain. Then add the soda. When the effervescence subsides, add the milk and butter. Sea- son to taste, putting in enough red pepper to make it de- cidedly hot. Lastly add cracker-crumbs enough to thicken very slightly. Boil up well, and it is ready for the table. (Canned tomatoes may be used.) A little chopped parsley is a pleasant addition. 114 How to Cook Well. Mock Bisque Soup. can tomatoes (or 1 pint raw tomatoes). 1 quart milk. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 1 teaspoonful salt. i saltspoonf ul white pepper. J cup butter. Stew the tomatoes soft enough to strain easily. Boil the milk in a double boiler. Cook a tablespoonful of but- ter and cornstarch together in a small sauce-pan, adding enough of the hot milk to make it pour easily. Stir it carefully into the boiling milk and boil ten minutes. Add the remaining butter in small pieces and stew till well mixed. Add salt and pepper, and the strained tomatoes. If the tomatoes are very acid, add half a saltspoonful of soda before straining. Serve very hot. More tomatoes can be used, but it is more delicate as above. Potato, or Lenten Soup. 12 large potatoes pared. i cupful butter, nearly. 1 medium-sized onion. 1 pint potato-water, li tablespoonfuls salt. A sprinkling of pepper. 1 quart new milk. One and one half hours before dinner put on the pota- toes to boil. One half hour before dinner put the butter into the soup-pot on the stove. When hot add the onion, sliced very thin, and fry it till of a delicate orange color (about fifteen minutes). While the onion is frying, drain the water from the boiled potatoes. Save it, and mash the potatoes. When the slices of onion are done, pour on them the milk, and one pint of the potato-water. Let all come to a boil. Mix two full cupfuls of the hot mashed potatoes till smooth in the boiling soup. Boil all together for a few minutes, stirring constantly ; season and dish. Cold mashed potato (left over) may be used, but it is harder to work smooth. Dinner. 115 Let the name of this good soup deter no one from try- ing it. It is easily and quickly made (which cannot be said of all soups), and will soon become a favorite with housekeepers, especially in cases of emergency. Enough for a family of six or seven. Another. 5 or 6 potatoes pared. 3 or 4 large sticks celery. 4 inches square salt pork. Milk. Parsley (may be omitted). Croutons. 1 large tablespooiif ul butter. An hour before dinner put to boil the potatoes, celery, and salt pork, all together. When tender, pass through a colander, with the water. Add, while hot, a large table- spoonful of butter, and milk enough to make it the consist- ency of cream. Return all to the stove, and boil five minutes. Put " Croutons " in the tureen, and pour the hot soup over. Green Pea Soup. f l quarts shelled peas. i f 1 tablespoonful butter. \ 3 quarts cold water. \ 1 teaspoouf ul flour. Pepper and salt. Take old peas, which though not fit to serve as a vege- table, make the best kind of soup. Boil them in the water, slowly, for a long time perhaps four hours until the peas are tender. Then mash them through a colander, also pouring the water through. By pouring the water a little at a time the pulp of the peas will pass through more readily. Leave nothing behind but the skins. Return the now creamy broth to the fire. When it be- gins to boil, season. Rub the butter in the flour till smooth. Add it to the soup, which is now ready to serve. (If you have it, boil a ham-bone with the peas.) If you choose omit the butter, and instead boil with the peas one fourth of a pound of salt pork. 116 How to Cook Well. Corn Soup. 12 ears of corn. 3 quarts water. 1 pint milk (or chicken broth.) {\ 1 tablespoonful butter. teaspoonful flour. Pepper and salt. Cut the corn from half the cobs, and grate it from the rest. Boil the cobs in the water till the water is reduced about one half ; then strain, and return to the fire. Add the corn and milk. When it boils, put in the butter (rolled in the flour) and season. Boil all together twenty- five minutes, longer if the corn is old. Oyster Soup. 1 quart oysters. 1 cupful water. 1 quart milk. 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 1 tablespoonful flour. Salt, cayenne pepper and mace. Strain the liquor from the oysters, and add the water. Put them in a do.uble-boiler. When it begins to boil, add the milk. When this boils put in the butter (previously rubbed in the flour), then the oysters. As soon as they begin to look ruffled around the edges, set the kettle back on the stove till you can dish the soup. If it contin- ues to boil) the oysters will become tough and hard. From three to five minutes will be long enough. Season just before serving, using very little salt. Put one half a cup of oyster crackers in the tureen be- fore pouring on the hot soup. Clam Soup. 1 quart clams (chopped fine). 1 quart milk and water (mixed). 1 cupful sliced raw potatoes. of an onion (minced). J cupful butter. ^ , 1 tablespoonful flour. Pepper and salt. Allspice (if you like). Boil together till tender the clams, milk, and vegeta- bles (about three quarters of an hour), using also the clam liquor. Cut the butter in pieces, roll them in the flour, Dinner. 117 and add with the seasoning when the clams are tender. Serve with a few oyster crackers in the tureen, or mix in rolled cracker crumbs if you like. The soup is good with- out either. Add milk if too thick. Salt pork (one fourth of a pound) may be used instead of butter. In this case fry the onion in it in the soup-pot; then add the other things. When sufficiently boiled, thicken with the Hour, season and serve. PISH. REMARKS. FISH is not fit to eat unless fresh, or frozen. If frozen it may be kept for weeks in winter, but be sure not to let it thaw till immediately before cooking it. Then lay it in cold water for an hour or so to thaw. Do not buy fish unless the eyes are prominent and bright, the gills bright red, and the body firm ; the absence of these signs shows that the fish is not fresh. Fish bought in market are usually ready cleaned, but for the convenience of those who enjoy the luxury of fishing themselves I will give di- rections for this. Fish should be scaled and cleaned as soon as possible after being caught. In doing this use as little water as possible, though enough must be used to wash them thor- oughly afterwards. Begin by scraping off every one of the scales. Then, if the fish is smalt or intended for broiling or frying, split it down the back, and remove all the en- trails. If large, or intended for baking or boiling whole, open it as little as possible ; cut it in front from the gills downward about two inches, put in your finger and draw the entrails up, taking care not to break the gall-bag, or the whole fish will taste bitter. The blood must all be 118 How to Cook Well. scraped and washed out. Pond fish and flounders should be soaked for an hour in strong salt and water, to take away the earthy taste. Keep a fish in the coldest place you can find, until ready to cook it. If it is to be kept over night, rub it well with salt on every side, and scatter salt thickly over the inside ; it will easily wash off in the morning. The largest fish, such as Salmon and Halibut are bought in market already cut into pieces for boiling or steaks for broiling or frying. Cod is often boiled, but other fish of the same size, such as Blue Fish, are usually baked, with the exception of Shad, which is best broiled. Mackerel should be broiled or fried. Smelts are always fried ; and so are most small fish, commonly called Pan-fish. I cannot give rules for cooking every kind of fish, they are too numerous. Suffice it to say that the directions for cooking one will apply to any other of the same size. To Boil Pish. Wash and wipe the fish. Rub a little salt along the bone and on the thick part. Lay the fish in a clean cloth, previously dipped into hot water and dredged with flour to prevent sticking. Draw it together to fit the shape of the fish, and sew it, having but one thickness of cloth around the fish. (Some persons use a fish-kettle ; then sewing in a cloth is needless. But any one who will take the trouble to use the cloth will find that the fish, though it requires a little dexterity to turn it out, will have a far finer flavor than that which is boiled in a fish-kettle.) Put it into cold water enough to cover it, with a tablespoonf ul of salt and a tablespoonf ul of vinegar. (If you put it into boiling water the inside will have a raw taste.) Notice when it be- gins to boil, and counting from that time allow it to boil about fifteen minutes for each pound, though different Dinner. 119 kinds of fish require a longer or shorter time to boil. It should boil rather font. Take off any scum that may rise. When done (which can be ascertained by opening a corner of the cloth and piercing with a fork) take the fish out. Lay it on a platter while you cut the threads, and fold back the cloth. Invert another platter on it, and very quickly and dexterously turn the fish out on it. Take off the cloth, wipe the edges of the platter if at all smeared, and pour " Drawn Butter " over and around the fish. Serve more in a gravy boat. Lay slices of hard-boiled egg over the fish and around the platter ; also parsley, if you can get it, and add a few capers. Or use " Egg-sauce." If you use a fish-kettle allow only ten minutes or less to the pound, for boiling. Boiled Cod. (See To Boil Fish.) A cod-fish is so much thicker at one end than the other, that it is impossible to have all parts evenly cooked in boiling. So it is a good plan to cut the fish in half, boil- ing the head and shoulders (the thickest part) for dinner, and reserving the thin end to boil for breakfast next day. It will keep if sprinkled thickly with salt on the inside. To use what is left of Boiled Cod see Boiled Halibut. Boiled Halibut. Buy a thick piece to boil. Boil like other fish (see "To Boil Fish"), but without a cloth, if you choose, as the texture of this fish is so firm as not to be in danger of breaking, if boiled slowly. Boil five or ten minutes to the pound, from the time it begins to boil. Cold Halibut can be made use of in a great variety of ways. Use what is left for Fish Salad, Escaloped Fish, Fish Hash or Fish Balls, Pat6s, or Croquettes. 120 How to CooJc Well. Boiled Salmon. (See " To Boil Fish.") Salmon requires more con- stant skimming than other fish, and also takes longer to boil. Allow twenty minutes to each pound from the time it begins to boil. Use warm water, or it will lose its color. Serve with " Cream Sauce." Mix what is left over with the sauce, and warm for breakfast. Or make into " Fish Balls." Fish Au Court Bouillon. 3 pounds fish of any kind. / 14 tablespoonfuls butter. I i pint chopped onions. 2 tablespoonfuls Browned Flour. " 1 pint chopped tomatoes. 1 pint water. pint claret wine. 1 tablespoonful parsley (chopped). 1 teaspoonftil powdered thyme. teaspoonf ul powdered cloves. teaspoonful powdered allspice. Pepper and salt. Fry the onions in the butter in a deep kettle. Add the flour, and stir well. Put in the tomatoes ; water, wine, parsley, spices, and seasoning. Let it all come to a boil. Then add the fish, previously sliced. Let it simmer forty minutes. Baked Fish (of the size of Cod, Blackfish or Shad). Make a stuffing by either of the following rules, and fill the fish, previously washed and wiped dry. Or butter thin slices of bread, sprinkle them with salt, pepper and a few drops of water. Stuff the fish, and sew it up with a needle and thread. Skewer the head and tail together, or tie with twine. Lay it on an earthen platter, in which it should be served, as it is difficult to remove a baked fish Dinner. 121 without breaking. Flour it well. Put a few thin slices of salt pork on top of the fish, with skewers, and sprinkle salt over it. Baste it about once in every ten minutes with the liquor which cooks out of it. Add a little water if there is not enough. Allow fifteen minutes to the pound for baking fish. The oven should be moderately hot ; if very hot it will not cook well in the middle. Brown it well. When it can be easily pierced by a fork, take it from the oven, remove the skewers, pork and thread, and serve. Garnish, if you like, with sprigs of parsley and slices of lemon. Or lay "Fried Oysters" around the dish. If you choose, scatter over the fish drops of Madeira wine or lemon-juice. Or, serve simply with catsup or Worcestershire sauce. For another way to bake fish see Baked Blue Fish. Stuffing for Baked Fish. (See page 147.) Two tablespoonfuls chopped ham fat may be used in- stead of butter. It is economical, and gives a pleasant flavor. Mashed Potato makes a good stuffing for fish. Onion Stuffing for Fish. 8 large onions (chopped). 4 cupful bread-crumbs. Butter size of an egg. A little pepper. Anchovy sauce enough to give a red color to the stuffing. Mix all well together. Tomatoes may be used in place of Anchovy Sauce. In that case use salt pork (chopped) instead of butter. Mississippi River Steamboat Stuffing for Fish. Cut raw corn from the cob, add to it one third as much raw tomatoes (chopped coarse). Dredge well with flour, and add a beaten egg, having mixed them well together. 122 ttow to Cook Well. Season with salt and pepper and one teaspoonful melted butter, and stuff the fish. Bake as usual. Fish served in this way is popular on the Mississippi River steamboats. Baked Blue Fish. y. Wash the fish. Do not remove the head or tail. Stuff it with "Stuffing for Baked Fish" (see page 121), and sew it up. Put into a dripping-pan a slice of salt pork, cut into strips. Fry on top of the stove till crisp, then add to it half a cupful of boiling water. Lay in the fish. Sprinkle the top with hot water; dredge thickly with flour, and lay bits of butter over the entire top. Bake one hour, in a moderate oven, basting it often with the water in the pan, so that it will not become dry. If the water wastes away in the pan, add more (boiling). When done, take out the string with which it was sewed. Put on a hot platter, while you make the gravy. Set the dripping-pan on top of the stove. When the gravy boils, dredge in more flour (stirring fast), and add butter, pepper and salt. Pour over the fish, and lay slices of lemon on top. (Grated horse-radish may be substituted for the lemon.) This is the nicest way to cook Blue Fish, as it is more sure of being cooked through than by any of the other ways, and the delicious flavor is well drawn out. Halibut (baked). Buy either a thick slice as for boiling, or thinner ones as for frying. In the latter case, pile them up with lumps of butter between the slices. Put several lumps of butter in the bottom of a tin pan. Lay in the fish, sprinkled with pepper and salt, and set it in the oven which should not be very hot. In about fifteen minutes pour over it one pint boiling water (or enough for Dinner. 123 gravy), flour it, and leave it till it is tender when pierced by a fork. Then put the fish in a platter, with a little but- ter, and keep it hot while you make the gravy. Set the pan on top of the stove, let the gravy boil, and thicken it by dredging in flour. Stir while it thickens, and then pour over the fish. One pound will bake in half an hour. An improvement is to add catsup to the gravy, or dot the fish with spoon- fuls of currant jelly. Fried Fish. Wash the fish and wipe dry. Lay them in a towel long enough to absorb the moisture, then rub them with salt, and dredge with flour, or roll in corn-meal. Have ready five or six slices of salt pork fried to a crisp. Take them out and lay the fish whole if very small, split if larger, in the boiling fat in the frying-pan. Be sure to have plenty of fat, enough to half cover the fish. Fry over a very hot fire ; turn when half done, and when brown on both sides serve at once, having the head of one to the tail of the next in the platter. It is an improvement to dip the fish into beaten egg b fore dredging them. Lard may be used in place of salt pork, but it does not give so good a flavor. Fish Steaks (fried). Buy steaks of halibut, salmon, or any very large fish. Have them cut about one inch thick. Wash and wipe dry. Dip each into a beaten egg, on a plate, then into fine crumbs or better still, corn meal, and lay in a frying-pan, containing enough boiling lard to half cover the fish. Or four or five slices of salt pork may be used instead of lard. When half done, turn and brown the other side, and 124 How to Cook Well sprinkle with salt and pepper. The fish should fry in ten minutes. Lay the steaks neatly on a hot platter ; and garnish, if you choose, with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. To Broil Fish. "Wash and wipe the fish and dredge it with flour. But- ter a toaster ; lay the fish on it, open flat, with the inside toward the coals. If the fish is heavy, lay the toaster on a gridiron. If large and thick, let it heat through gradu- ally, and cook it slowly a long time to ensure its being done in the inside. Keep it covered with a pan, and oc- casionally wet the top with melted butter, to prevent its getting dry. Turn the toaster when half done. This is a better way than to use a knife and fork in turning the fish. Increase the heat towards the last, or put the fish nearer the coals. Some large fish take an hour to broil. Those should be watched carefully, as it is a difficult operation to cook one successfully. If the fish is small it can be cooked more quickly, over a hotter fire. Season broiled fish just before dishing; after dishing put bits of butter over the top. Broiled Shad. (See " To Broil Fish.") It will take twenty minutes to broil shad ; longer if the fish is large. Increase the heat towards the last, so that the fish will be done through. Delicate Shad. Wash the shad, and wipe it dry. With a sharp pocket- knife remove all the bones. Butter a gridiron. Place the shad on it, flat, over hot coals, and broil for five minutes, with the inside down. Transfer carefully to a flat tin sheet buttered. Dredge it with flour. Scatter on a little Dinner. 125 salt and a very little cayenne pepper. Then pour over the entire surface a tablespoonful of melted butter. Set it in the oven, which should be moderately hot, and bake it twenty minutes. Serve on a platter, with bits of butter laid on. Servo with it in a gravy-boat, "Asparagus Sauce," or pour it over the fish. Pried Shad. Get a roe-shad, if possible, for this. Wash, wipe, and cut the shad into eight pieces, removing fins and tail. Lay them in a cloth to absorb the moisture. When ready to cook dredge with flour and lay the fish with the roe (also floured) in a hot frying-pan, in which there is enough boiling lard to half cover the fish. At the end of five min- utes, salt and pepper the fish and turn it. Salt and pepper the other side. When brown and tender lay the fish on a hot platter, with the roe. As most persons have no frying-pan large enough to hold a whole shad at once, a good way is, to fry half first, and place it on the table with half the roe ; and after- wards bring in a second supply hot. Smelts. Soak smelts in warm water for fifteen minutes ; then scrape them. Remove the long dark vein that runs through the body, by gently putting off the head, first loosening it slightly with a knife. After this, rinse them, and lay them in a cloth to dry. Then roll each in a plate of corn meal. Fry them delicately in deep lard (or enough to half cover them), boiling hot when they are put in, and kept so till the fish are brown. Sprinkle them with salt when you dish them ; if put on when you begin to cook them they will not brown. Serve tastefully with parsley. 126 How to Cook Well. Perch. Dress and fry whole like smelts. They take longer to fry. They can be hastened, and also made to look pretty by cutting them half through at intervals on each side be- fore frying. Mackerel. (See Broiled Fish.} It takes fifteen minutes to broil. Or, it may be fried. (See Fried Fish.} Allow nearly half an hour to fry it, if large and thick. Do not have the fire too hot at first. Salmon a Plndienne. Broil a salmon steak. While it is broiling make the fol- lowing sauce : Put a small piece of butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, dredge in a little curry powder, and a little flour. Stir it until smooth, and thick as cream. Add a little gravy. Boil five minutes ; then stir in a spoonful of chow- chow, made with mustard, and chopped coarse. Boil five minutes more. Have ready a hot platter, with some hot mashed potato in the centre, flattened on top. Lay the fish on the potato, and pour the sauce around it. Serve very hot. Escaloped Fish. Boil about two pounds of any kind of fish ; or use fish left from dinner. Pick it to shreds with a knife and fork, while you prepare the following sauce : 1 quart milk. 1 onion. 1 bunch parsley. Butter size of an egg. teaspoonful salt. A pinch red or black pepper. 3 tablespoonf uls flour. Boil the milk with the onion and parsley. When the flavor is extracted from these, strain them out, and thicken Dinner. 127 the milk while boiling, by stirring in the flour, previously rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Add the butter and seasoning. Moisten the fish with some of the sauce. Then put fish and sauce in layers in a buttered pudding-dish, having sauce on top. Cover with crumbs and bits of butter. Bake in a quick oven nearly half an hour. A wineglass of wine poured over all, just before serving, is an improvement. A little chopped celery may be sub- stituted for the parsley if preferred. No. 2. Make as above, but add a layer of cold boiled potatoes (sliced) over each layer of fish. No. 3, 1 pint milk. f Butter size of an egg. 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. 8 eggs, well-beaten. Boil the milk ; rub the butter and flour together and add them. Let it boil a minute ; then pour over the eggs, stir- ring fast. Sprinkle salt, pepper and grated nutmeg on the shredded fish, and place alternate layers of it and the sauce in a dish until filled. Cover the top with bread- crumbs and bake twenty minutes. A delicious dish. Casserole of Fish. 1 cupful cold fish. A little milk. A lump of butter. 1 cupful mashed potato. 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced. Salt and pepper. Flake the fish and moisten it with the milk and butter. Butter a small mould, and put in alternate layers of po- tato, fish and slices of egg, with sprinklings of salt and pepper. Stearn twenty minutes ; turn out in a hot platter and garnish with parsley. 128 How to Cook Well. Spiced Fish (for Luncheon or Tea). 6 cloves. 6 allspice kernels. 6 pepper corns. 1 tablespoonf ul brown sugar. 1 cupful sharp vinegar. 1 pint cold flaked fish (any kind). Steep the spices in the vinegar for ten minutes, and pour over the fish. Serve cold. To Pickle Fish. Any fish may be pickled in this way. Wash and cut the fish into pieces about six inches square. Boil them till very tender and bloodless. Take out the pieces carefully, so as not to break them. Lay them in a stone jar ; and pour over them, while hot, the following pickle, which should be prepared while the fish is boiling. 2 quarts vinegar. 1 dozen blades of mace. 1 pint of the water in which the fish is boiled. 1 onion (sliced fine). 2 teaspoonf uls made mustard, i dozen whole cloves. A little pepper and salt. There is no need to boil the vinegar. When ready the pickled fish should be kept tightly covered, and in a cold place. Use it within a few days, as it will not keep long. Nice for lunch or tea in summer. Potted Fish. Any kind of large fish will do. Take out the backbone, and let it lie in cold water salted for two hours. Cut it in slices and put in a stone jar, sprinkling each layer with salt, red pepper, allspice and cloves, or cinnamon, also put in little bits of butter, and a dredging of flour. Pour over all enough vinegar to cover the fish. Tie a cloth close over the top of the jar, and cover with a plate as close as possible. Bake in a very steady oven, for six hours if the Dinner. 129 quantity is large ; or set it in a pot of cold water, and boil from three to five hours, according to quantity. Leave it in the jar all night. Turn out and cut in thin slices. To every two pounds of fish, allow one tablespoonf ul of allspice and cloves or cinnamon mixed. More would be too much. Stewed Fish. Cut any kind of fish into squares, and put them in a saucepan. Cover with cold water. Boil gently till ten- der. Then rub a large lump of butter with about half as much flour till smooth. Moisten with a little of the boil- ing water from the fish, and add it to the contents of the saucepan. Add pepper and salt, and a cupful of cream or milk. Let it boil up once, and serve hot. N. B. If you have but a small amount of fish, or if you like, add sliced potatoes and onion or chopped celery when you put the fish on. A nice dish for breakfast or tea. Pish & Pltalienne. 1 quart stewed tomatoes. 4 pounds fish, any kind. 2 onions (sliced thin). Salt and pepper. cupful sweet oil. The tomatoes must be stewed till tender. While they are cooking, cut the fish (previously washed) into square pieces. Have the oil in a deep kettle on the fire. When hot, put in the onions, and fry them. Then add the fish. Strain the tomatoes (mashing them well) through a colan- der. Pour them on the fish in the kettle. Add salt and pepper. Cover the kettle close, and stew for one hour, taking care that it does not burn. When done, the fish will be tender, and will look red. This may well be described as " a Pretty Kettle of Fish ! " 130 How to CooJe Well Fish. Chowder. 5 pounds codfish or sea-bass. 1 pound salt pork (chopped). 4 or 5 onions (sliced). 3 large potatoes (sliced). A few pounded crackers. A few whole crackers. Milk or water. Pepper and salt. Cut the fish into pieces three or four inches long. Put in the bottom of a deep kettle a layer of the pork, then one of fish, one of potatoes, one of onions, and one of pounded crackers. Season with a very little pepper and salt. Repeat the layers in this order. Make a layer on top of all of whole crackers, buttered. Pour over all enough milk or water to cover it well. Cover the pot. Stew slowly for an hour. Transfer to the tureen care- fully, so as not to break the pieces of fish. If you choose, omit the pounded crackers, and dredge the fish and potatoes with flour. Cape Cod Chowder. 1 codfish (very fresh). 3 or 4 slices salt pork. 1 dozen hard crackers (soaked slightly) . 4 or 5 onions (sliced). Pepper and salt. Put the salt pork in the bottom of a deep kettle. Fry it brown, then take it out, and put into the fat half the crackers and onions, then the fish (cut into pieces about four inches long), then the rest of the crackers and onions. Season with pepper and salt. Pour over all enough boiling water to cover it well. Cover the kettle, and stew slowly for one hour. N. B. Allow one pound of salt pork to four pounds of fish. Dish carefully, so as not to break the pieces. A Rich Chowder. Like either of the above, with the addition of spices, butter rubbed in flour, parsley, mushrooms, and wine. Dinner. 131 Stewed Eels. Skin and clean, removing all the fat from the inside ; cut into pieces less than two inches long ; stew slowly in cold salted water enough to cover them, for one hour. Add then one tablespoonful of butter, a little pepper, one tablespoon ful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Stir till it thickens well. Serve hot in a covered dish. Fried Eels. Prepare as for stewing. Roll in flour or corn meal, and fry in hot lard or beef drippings, until brown. Ways to Use Cold Fish. Escalloped Fish. Casserole of Fish. Spiced Fish. Fish Salad. Fish Balls. Fish Pates. Fish Croquettes. Fish Hash. SHELL FISH. To Open Clams. Wash them clean. Then put them in a deep kettle, with a very little water in the bottom. Cover close and set on the fire. When the water boils and the steam rises the shells will open, and the clams can easily be taken out. This is a better way than to pour a quantity of boiling water over them, for the liquor is all saved, without being much weakened by water. N. B. If any of the clams have already opened, those must be rejected as not good. Clam Chowder. 2 slices fat pork. 3 large potatoes (sliced). 2 quarts hot water. 4 ship-biscuit (broken). 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 pint clams (measured after being taken from the shell). Salt and pepper. 1 cupful milk. Put the pork in the soup-pot. When browned add the 132 How to Cook Well. potatoes and the water. Boil till the potatoes are nearly done. Then put in the ship-biscuit, milk and butter. Let these come to a boil. Then add the clams with their liquor. Boil ten minutes, and serve. Clam Pie. Butter a pudding-dish. Put a cup upside down in the centre, to keep the crust from falling in, and to prevent the liquor from boiling over. Season the clams with pep- per, salt, and butter (melted). Fill the dish, and cover with a " Puff Paste," rolled nearly one inch thick. Cut a slit in the centre, and bake in a moderately slow oven, about three quarters of an hour. Clam Broth. Wash the clams perfectly clean. Put them in a kettle, and nearly cover them with boiling water. Boil till the shells open. Then take out the clams, separate them from the shells, and put them back in the water. Boil them only a few minutes. Add a lump of butter, and thicken slightly with a little flour (previously rubbed to a paste). Have ready three or four toasted crackers. Lay them in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the broth over. (Ex- cellent for invalids, as it is nutritious and easily digested.) Escaloped Clams. Chop clams very fine. Season with pepper and salt, also a dash of curry powder if you like it. Have ready bread or cracker crumbs, moistened with a little milk. Put layers of these and clams in a deep buttered dish. Bake in a moderate oven for about one hour (covered the first half hour) . Raw Oysters. "Wash the shells thoroughly, and wipe dry. Open them, remove the upper shell, but leave the other, with the oys- ter in it. Place them on a platter, with two lemons cut in Dinner. 133 quarters. Serve pepper and salt with them, and let each person squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice over the oys- ters, or use vinegar if preferred. Stewed Oysters (plain). Boil oysters for three minutes. Then dredge with flour, sprinkle with pepper, add a bit of butter, and pour into a dish lined with slices of toast, buttered. Stewed Oysters with Milk. JJoil one pint milk. Add one teaspoonful flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Then put in the liquor from one quart oysters. When it boils up again, add one tea- spoonful of butter, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper and mace. Put in the oysters, and boil about three minutes, t. e. till the oysters begin to look ruffled around the edges. Serve at once, or they will be tough. Pass around with them a plate of oyster crackers. Stewed Oysters with Celery. (James Parkinson, Philadelphia.} 1 pint strong beef -broth. 1 pint cream. 4 ounces butter. 3 teaspoonf uls salt. 2 teaspoonf uls white pepper. 2 teaspoonf uls ground mace. 1 bunch celery (or 1 teaspoonful celery salt). A little powdered cracker. A little corn starch. 60 fresh large oysters. Put the first seven ingredients into a saucepan, the but- ter being cut into small pieces, and the celery chopped fine. Let it boil till the celery is tender. Then dredge in (a very little at a time) the powdered cracker and corn starch until slightly thickened. 134 How to Cook Well. Have ready the oysters, parboiled in their own juice (without adding water) ; put them in a hot tureen, and pour over them the sauce made as above. Serve with the stew a plate of Cornstarch crackers. Few persons can get cream enough for this receipt ; milk may be substituted by using a larger quantity of but- ter. Stewed Oysters in the French Style. 1 quart oysters. Cold water. Pepper and salt. Butter, size of a walnut. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Onion, size of a chestnut. A little parsley, or celery tops. Drain the oysters. Put the liquor in a kettle by itself. Add water enough for soup required for the number of people at dinner. Season with salt and pepper ; let this boil, skimming the entire time. Rub the butter and flour together, and the onion, minced fine. Brown well in a pan. Add this to the oyster liquor; put in the oysters, and boil about three minutes. Mince the parsley, or young celery leaves. Put them in a soup tureen and pour in the oysters. This preparation of oysters may be served for tea, on a platter, by using only half a cupful of water. In this case, add the parsley, after the oysters are dished. Pried Oysters. Select large, firm oysters to fry. Drain the liquor from them and lay in a cloth for a few minutes, to absorb the moisture. " Egg-and-crumb " them. Lay them carefully in a frying-pan containing boiling hot butter deep enough to cover them, or use butter and lard mixed. Brown deli- cately, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, and serve at once. Dinner. 135 Oysters Fried in Oil. Select large oysters, firm-fleshed and highly flavored. Drain and thoroughly dry them on a towel. Beat up an equal bulk of eggs and cream, and a little salt. Dip the oysters very carefully into this mixture, one by one. Have ready some fine bread-crumbs, passed through a sieve. As you take each oyster out of the egg-and-crearn mixture, roll it carefully in the bread-crumbs, till every part is covered. Lay aside the oysters in a cool place for half an hour. Then fry in hot olive oil. Do not let them cook too long. As soon as they assume a rich golden tint, remove them with a skimmer. Drain and serve on a napkin with sprigs of parsley, and bits of lemon. Broiled Oysters. Procure as large oysters as possible. Grease well with butter a double gridiron, made of wire. Place the oysters on it, and carefully fold down the other half of the gridiron on them. Broil over a perfectly clear fire, very quickly. When half done, turn the gridiron over and cook the other side. Turn only once. Do not let the oysters burn or cook too long, which makes them tough. Have ready several slices of toast, delicately browned. Moisten slightly in cream or milk and spread evenly with butter, previously melted, into which has been sprinkled a little salt, and a dash of cayenne pepper, and a little lemon juice added. Cut the toast into quarter slices. On each of these small squares place an oyster, with a little of the melted butter on top. Steamed Oysters. Wash oysters in the shell, and put them in a steamer, with the deepest side down, so that the liquor will not be lost. Steam until they open, about twenty minutes ; serve 136 How to Cook Well in the half shell, with vinegar, salt and pepper. They should not be allowed to stand a moment more than nec- essary, before being eaten. They should not be served until after the guests are seated. Roast Oysters. Wash the shells and lay them (the deepest side down), upon hot coals, or in a very hot oven. When they begin to open they are done. Remove the upper shell, by means of a knife. Season the oysters with pepper, salt and but- ter, and serve in the half-shell, or upon buttered toast. Another Way is to remove the upper shell before cook- ing. Sprinkle the oysters with pepper and salt, and lay a bit of butter on each. Lay in a dripping-pan, and bake about eight minutes in a hot oven. Serve at once. This is the best way if eaten at table ; if at a picnic cook on coals in the shells, without opening. Escaloped Oysters. Cover the bottom and sides of a buttered pudding-dish with a thick layer of fine cracker or bread crumbs. Then put in a layer of oysters ; sprinkle with a pinch of red pepper, and the same of mace (be sure not to have too much of either) ; also a very little salt. Cover with dots of butter, and put another layer of crumbs. Repeat until the dish is full. Have the top layer of crumbs. Put bits of butter over it, and pour over the whole a little of the oyster liquor, or milk. Do not use too much liquor ; half a cup- ful to a quart of oysters is enough, as oysters give out a good deal of moisture in cooking, and if the mixture is very wet, it is not so good. Bake a quart of oysters half an hour ; a larger dish will take longer. The oven should be moderately hot, and the dish kept covered until the last ten minutes. Then brown quickly on the top shelf of the oven. Omit red pepper and mace, if preferred. Dinner. 137 Pickled Oysters. 100 oysters (fresh). 1 pint best white wine vinegar. 1 medium-sized onion ^chopped 1 ounce whole black peppers. 4 ounce whole allspice. 4 teaspoouful salt. tine). Scald the oysters in their liquor, adding a little hot water if they are in danger of burning. At the end of three minutes, strain off the liquor, and spread the oysters on platters to cool. Add the vinegar, onion and season- ing to the oyster liquor, and boil for five minutes, closely covered. When cold, strain and pour over the oysters. Put into jars, cover close, and keep in a cool, dark place. These will keep a month, perhaps longer. Oysters a la Creme. 1 pint cream, or milk. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 quart oysters. Pepper and salt. 1 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Boil the cream ; rub the flour and butter, and stir in. When well-thickened pour in the oysters with their liquor, and stir till well-mixed ; add pepper and salt, and boil until the oysters ruffle, about three minutes. Have ready a platter, lined with slices of hot toast. Pour the oysters over and serve hot. If milk is used, one egg (beaten) should be added at the last, pouring the hot mixture on the egg, so as not to curdle it. Fricasseed Oysters. (A New Orleans Receipt.) i cupful butter. 1 quart oysters. \ cupful cream. 1 teaspoonful flour, or corn- 1 egg well beaten. Salt and pepper. Chopped parsley (may be omit- ted). starch. Melt the butter in a pan ; when very hot, add the oysters, well drained. Let all boil up a moment. Then 138 How to Cook Well. add the cream, with the flour or cornstarch stirred into it. The moment the oysters ruffle, dip out a little of the hot cream and stir with the egg. Pour it in with the oysters ; stir well, and take from the fire at once, as the egg should not cook but a moment. Add salt and pepper ; also parsley, if you like. Serve on toasted bread, in a platter. For one gallon of oysters, use a cupful of butter, but not so much cream, as that would be too much liquid. Oyster Boulette. 1 quart oysters. Butter size of an egg. 1 tablespoonf ul flour. cupful hot milk. 2 eggs, yolks only. Salt and pepper. & cupful broth, or boiling water. Blanch the oysters ; melt the butter in a pan, then stir in the flour. Add the broth and milk, and boil for a few minutes. Strain the oysters, and add them to the sauce. Boil three minutes, then add the eggs, well-beaten, and mixed with a little of the hot sauce ; season, and pour the mixture at once over slices of hot toast, on a platter. Devilled Oysters. Choose large oysters. Let them lie for fifteen minutes in a mixture of lemon juice, and melted butter, seasoned with a dash of cayenne pepper. Then roll them in pow- dered crumbs of bread or cracker; dip in beaten egg, and fry. Curried Oysters. 1 quart oysters. f Butter, size of an egg. -I 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 1 teaspoonful curry powder. 1 lemon, juice only (may be omitted). A little salt. Drain the liquor from the oysters, and if there is not much add a little hot water. When this boils, stir in the Dinner. 139 butter, previously rubbed with the flour and curry pow- der. Mix smooth and add the lemon juice. Boil a mo- ment, then add the oysters. Boil until they ruffle, about three minutes ; sprinkle with salt and serve at once, in a covered dish. Pass rice around with them. Oysters & la Royale. Bake a few oysters in a pan, in the oven, for a few mo- ments, till they ruffle ; no longer. Have ready slices of hot toast, spread on both sides with butter, into which a little curry powder has been rubbed. Spread the toast on a platter, and lay the oysters on the toast. Sprinkle each one with salt and pepper, and lay on a little butter. Smothered Oysters. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a covered sauce-pan, with half a saltspoonf ul of white pepper, one teaspoonf ul of salt, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. When hot add one pint oysters, drained from the liquor. Cover closely and shake the pan to keep the oysters from sticking. Cook two or three minutes, or until plump. Serve on toasted crackers. To use the liquor see page 156. Panned Oysters. Strain the liquor from the oysters. Put them into a hot pan over the fire without water ; as soon as they begin to curl, add butter, pepper, salt. Serve on hot toast, wet with some of the oyster liquor (made hot for the purpose) and buttered. "Pigs in Blankets." Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Wrap each oyster in a very thin slice of fat bacon, and fasten with a wooden skewer. Cook in a hot omelet pan, just long enough to crisp the bacon. Serve on small pieces of deli- cate toast. Very nice for luncheon. 140 How to Cook Well. Oyster Pie. Make " Puff Paste." Line a pudding dish with a part of it rolled thin. Roll the rest half an inch thick, and cut out exactly the size of the top of the dish. (You can use an inverted pan for this.) Bake it on a tin sheet ; bake also that in the pudding dish. Then make " Stewed Oysters with Milk," adding flour enough to the stew while boiling to make it quite thick. Pour this into the pud- ding-dish, cover with the thick crust, and serve at once, as hot as possible. If oysters and crust are baked together the former are apt to be overdone. To Open Lobsters. The best time of the year for lobster; is when oysters are out of season ; that is, late in spring, and through the summer. Buy a lobster already boiled, and as fresh as possible. The heaviest are best. If the tail springs back after pulling it, the lobster is good. To open a lobster, cut the body the entire length on the under side, with a sharp knife. Throw away the head, which contains a poisonous matter, and carefully extract the poisonous vein which passes from it through the body, carefully examin- ing the green fat to see that there is none of the poisonous vein left in it. Remove also the hairy appendages at the side. The rest of the lobster is all good. If the lobster shell is not to be used, the quickest way to extract the meat is to crack it with a hammer, using the claws as well as the large shell. A Simple Way to Serve Lobster. Put the meat from the body in the centre of a platter, and that from the large claws at each end of the dish. Ar- range the small claws in the shell, around the edge. Gar- nish with parsley or lettuce leaves, and pass lettuce around Dinner. 141 with it. Serve with a " Salad Dressing" poured over it, or passed around with it. Or serve simply with vinegar, salt and pepper. Devilled Lobster or Crab. After taking the meat out of the shells chop it fine, and mix with it a little salt and red pepper, and plenty of but- ter. Scrub the shells, fill them firmly with the mixture, sprinkle the top with fine bread or cracker crumbs, and bake in a hot oven till nicely browned. Serve hot, in the shells. Another way is to add to the meat before seasoning, one third as much of fine crumbs as you have meat. Add one egg, beaten a little ; and chopped parsley if you like. Stewed Terrapins. Boil the terrapins (in boiling water) till the shell can be easily taken off. Dissect them, removing the sand-bags and head (all the rest is good), taking great care to re- move the gall, which is found in the centre. The liver is most delicate and delicious. Stew the meat in cold water enough to cover it. When done, just before dishing, add a large lump of butter, rubbed in flour, a little salt, and red and black pepper. Flavor well with good wine, and serve in a covered dish. This dish requires to be rich in butter, and enough flour should be used to make the sauce quite thick, for the wine thins it. SALADS. EEMAEKS. Keep the lettuce or celery to be used for salads in a cool place, and do not add it till shortly before it is to be served, or it will be wilted. 142 How to Cook Well. Never attempt to make salad dressing in a hurry, for it cannot be hurried without spoiling it, but it will be facili- tated if the ingredients, bowl and fork are very cold, and it is mixed in a cool place. Use none but the best olive oil. In mixing put in the dry things first, then the oil, and lastly the vinegar. The oil must be added very slowly, a drop at a time, and it will work in more smoothly and be less likely to curdle if a few drops of vinegar are alternated with the oil after the first few drops of oil are mixed in. Beat all very smooth before adding the vinegar. N. B. If the oil should curdle from putting it in too fast, stop at once. Beat the yolk of an egg in a clean bowl, and add to it very gradually the curdled Mayonnaise. A salad for tea is very appetizing, and this is a good way to use up what is left of roast turkey, veal, and many kinds of vegetables. Mayonnaise Dressing. (No. 1.) . 1 egg (yolk only). 2 saltspoonfuls salt. A pinch black pepper. teaspoonf ul dry mustard. A dash cayenne pepper. h cupful salad oil. A few drops lemon juice (or vinegar) . li teaspoonsfuls vinegar. Beat the egg well with a fork ; add the dry things, and mix well. Then work in the oil, drop by drop, or it will curdle, alternating at first with a few drops of vinegar to give smoothness. When thick as jelly alternate again with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. When the oil is all used stir in the vinegar. This will keep a week, if not longer, if put into a bottle with a glass stopper and kept in a cold place. Make it when you have yolks left, after making White Cake, etc. Dinner. 143 Mayonnaise Dressing. (No. 2.) (Philadelphia Cooking School.) 3 eggs, yolks only. 1 teaspoonf ul salt, 1 teaspoonf ul mustard, dry. 1 teaspoonf ul sugar. Mix like the former. A dash of cayenne pepper. 1 cupful olive oil. 1 tablespooiif ul vinegar. Boiled Salad Dressing. (Without Oil.) 6 eggs, beaten light. 1 pint vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls salt. 2 tablespoonfuls pepper. 2 small teaspoonfuls mustard. 12 tablespoonfuls cream. Mix all together in order ; put it in a pitcher, or bowl, set into boiling water on the stove; stir constantly, so that it will not curdle. When as thick as custard, remove at once and pour it into a cold vessel until ready to use. It should be perfectly cold before mixing with the salad. Enough for two chickens. If there is no celery in the salad add nearly a bottleful of celery salt to the dressing. For a family of five, use one third of everything, as this makes a large quantity. Sidney Smith's Salad Dressing. 1 /iard-boiled egg, yolk only, cold. .i tablespoonful dry mustard, i saltspoonful red pepper. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. 4 teaspoonf ul sugar. 1 medium-sized boiled potato, hot. 3 drops vinegar. 6 tablespoonfuls good oil. 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Rub the egg very smooth with the mustard, pepper, salt and sugar. Then rub in the potato, using the flat of the spoon, till no lumps are left. Stir in three drops vine- gar ; then very slowly the oil ; lastly add the vinegar. This makes enough for five persons. If you want a 144 How to Cook Well. smaller quantity, put less mustard, oil, and vinegar. It is best to make it an hour before needed. This salad dressing is good for any kind of salad, par- ticularly lettuce. Sidney Smith's original rule was writ- ten in rhyme, but I think it more explicit given in this way. Salad Dressing to Keep a Week. 6 tablespoonfuls hot mashed potato. 2 tablespoonfuls dry mustard. teaspoonf ul salt. teaspoonful cayenne pepper. 4 eggs (beaten light) . 3 tablespoonfuls salad oil. 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Add the dry things to the potato while hot. Then stir in the eggs. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring well, and mixing in a few drops vinegar after putting in a few drops of the oil (to make it work in more smoothly). Lastly, stir in the vinegar. Then put in a wide-mouthed bottle and cork till wanted. Chicken Salad. Boil the chickens and let them get cold. They need not be young ones. Remove skin, bones, gristle, and fat, and cut the meat into small pieces (chopping makes it too fine). Cut celery stalks into very short pieces, and mix with the chicken shortly before serving. Have ready a " Salad Dressing," and mix it in thoroughly. Serve be- fore the celery wilts, garnishing the dish with the pretty tops of the celery stalks. Allow one large bunch of celery to each chicken, and four chickens to twenty-five people. If celery is out of season substitute lettuce. If you can- not procure either, use chopped cabbage, and season the dressing with celery salt. The white meat of roast chicken or turkey may be used. Dinner. 145 Veal Salad or Mock Chicken Salad. This is a good substitute for chicken when that is out of season, and is much cheaper. Chop cold cooked veal, and mix with it nearly an equal quantity of chopped cabbage. Stir into it a good " Salad Dressing," made with celery salt. Lettuce may be used instead of cabbage. Ham Salad. Chop fine cold boiled ham. Pour a " Salad Dressing " over it, and serve in a dish lined and ornamented with lettuce leaves. Another Way is to season the chopped ham with pep- per and mustard. Then mix it with the following dress- ing while it is hot. When all is cold, serve with a border of lettuce leaves, sprinkled with vinegar. 1 pint tomato-juice. I Butter size of a nutmeg. 1 tablespoouful cornstarch. Boil the tomato-juice, and thicken with the cornstarch. Then stir in the butter till dissolved. Salmon Salad. Boil a piece of salmon. When cold, remove skin and bones, and cut into pieces two inches square. Season each one with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a few drops of oil, and plenty of vinegar. Cover them, and let them stand two hours or rtiore. Line a salad-bowl with lettuce leaves ; put in the salmon, interspersed with lettuce leaves, and pour over all a " Mayonnaise Dressing." Sprinkle capers over the top, or garnish with slices of lemon, cut in quarters. Serve before the lettuce wilts. Fish Salad. Just like "Salmon Salad," or the fish may be flaked. This is a good way to use remnants of fish. If you cook 146 How to Cook Well. fish expressly for salad, cut it into cubes before boiling. Place them in a wire basket to boil, as thus they will keep their shape better. Put the basket into cold water with a teaspoonful of vinegar, and salt added, and boil about ten minutes from the time it begins. Lobster Salad. Get a hen-lobster, so as to have coral for garnishing. See To Prepare Lobster. Cut the meat very small, mix with it a good " Salad Dressing," and arrange in a salad-bowl, with lettuce leaves lining the dish, the crisp inside ones being mixed with the lobster. Garnish with the coral cut fine, and the small claws, and add the whites of hard- boiled eggs cut into rings. (Use the yolks for "Veal Stew.") Serve as soon as possible. If canned lobster is used, drain it thoroughly before*^ using. Shrimp Salad. This is made of canned shrimps, with dressing arranged prettily with lettuce, like Lobster Salad. Potato Salad. Slice cold boiled potatoes, and shave two or three raw onions. Mix gently (by tossing with a fork) with any rich " Salad Dressing," and arrange on a platter with capers dotted over the top, or rings of lemon peel. Garnish with parsley if you can get it. A few cold boiled beets or carrots mixed with the po- tato vary this pretty salad agreeably Some add a little curry powder to the dressing. Summer Salad. Cold peas, string beans and beets or young turnips (previously boiled) make a good salad, and form an eco- Dinner. 147 noraical dish for tea if you use what is left from dinner. This is a favorite salad with the French. Pour any good " Salad Dressing " over the vegetables, and arrange taste- fully on a platter. It is a great improvement to mix with them a little ham, chopped. Tomato Salad. Skin fresh tomatoes without scalding them. Cut in thick slices and pour a rich " Salad Dressing " over them Set on ice a few minutes, and serve. Or serve round tomatoes whole (but peeled) and allow each person to help himself to dressing from a glass bowl. This is very pretty. Lettuce Salad. Break a head of lettuce from the stem, and wash thor- ony/dy as the leaves are apt to be infested by insects. Then break the larger leaves in two or three pieces (on no account chop them), and mix in a salad-bowl with a nice " Salad Dressing." Do not prepare it till just before din- ner, or it will wilt. Indeed the best way to serve lettuce is to arrange the leaves (whole) like a big bouquet, and serve the dressing separately. This ensures the lettuce being crisp, besides making a pretty looking dish. If you want it still prettier, ornament the dish with nas- turiium-blossoms, which may also be eaten. STUFFING, GRAVY, SAUCES, ETC. Stuffing. (For Turkey, Chicken, Veal, Lamb, or Fish.) . Soak in boiling water, and squeeze pieces of stale bread or dried crumbs. Then mix together thoroughly the fol- 148 How to Cook Well. lowing, putting in the butter while the bread is still hot : f 1 pint soaked bread. I Butter size of an egg. 1| tablespoonfuls summer sa- vory. tablespoonful sweet marjo- ram. 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 1 teaspoonf ul pepper. 1 tablespoonful thyme. Taste to make sure that the seasoning is right, as herbs vary in strength. Add a beaten egg if you like. This amount will fill one turkey. No 2. Chop fine, bread a day old. Moisten with milk or water, season as above, and add the yolk of one egg, beaten light. (May be omitted.) Chopped celery or parsley is an improvement to either of these ; and a little minced salt pork may be substituted for butter. Stuffing is best when it crumbles readily. Use a tea- spoon in filling the fowl, so as not to smear the outside. Cracker Stuffing. (For Poultry. ) Make like the above ; but use instead of bread one cup- ful powdered cracker (it swells more than bread). It must be moistened with milk, and an egg is necessary. Oyster Stuffing. (For Turkey and Chicken.) Make "Stuffing" with chopped bread. Moisten with oyster liquor, and add about one dozen oysters, chopped. " Stewed or Escaloped Oysters " " left over " may be added to ordinary stuffing. A delicate flavor of oysters (a soup$on) can be given by wetting the bread with oyster liquor, which is sometimes not needed when cooking oysters. Of course this would not be called Oyster Stuffing, for there are no oysters in it, but it is very nice. Dinner. 149 Chestnut Stuffing. (For Turkey and Chickens.} Put one pint chestnuts in a pan on the stove. When the skins burst, shell them, and boil in salted water. Add them to ordinary stuffing, reserving a few to put in the gravy. Stuffing for Ducks or Geese. Make "Stuffing," but substitute sage for the thyme and sweet marjoram, and add one small onion, minced. Two grated apples may also be added, for a change. Apple and Potato Stuffing. (For Ducks or Geese.) i pound stewed apples. i an onion, minced. A little salt. A dash cayenne pepper. A little sage. Mashed potato. Do not use sweetened apples, but the pulp of baked apples will do. Mix all together, using enough potato to give it a good consistency. Good stuffing can be made like this with bread crumbs instead of potato. Browned Flour. (For Gravy.) Put one quart flour into a pan in the oven (not very hot), and stir it often till the whole is a delicate brown. Keep it in a wide-mouthed glass bottle and shake it every few days to prevent lumping. Do not bottle it till cold. To Make Gravy. To make gravy free from grease is one of the most im- portant branches of cookery, as well as the most trouble- some to beginners. Keep on hand a little " stock," or water in which meat has been boiled ; even the ragged edges and bones of steak or chops boiled and strained make a foundation for 150 now to CooJc Well gravy. Having skimmed off the fat when cold, heat to boiling. Season and " Thicken " with " Browned Flour." Then strain; this is always important. Gravy for Roast Meat. Half an hour before dinner pour all the drippings out of the pan in which the meat is roasting, and set it within a pan of cold water in a very cold place, for the fat to rise. Pour into the dripping-pan half a cupful of boiling water. When the meat is dished, skim the reserved gravy, and pour it into the pan with the water. Set it on top of the stove, and when it boils season and " Thicken " as above with " Browned Flour." Do not fail to strain it into the gravy-boat. Giblet Gravy. Boil giblets and neck of one turkey or one pair of fowls for one and one half hours in one pint of cold water. Skim occasionally. Take them out, chop the giblets fine, and re- turn to the water. Set this aside till the turkey is roasted and dished. Add to it the gravy from the dripping-pan, having skimmed off as much fat as possible. Let it begin to boil. Add salt and pepper, and "Thicken" with " Browned Flour," rubbed smooth in cold water. Gravy for Broiled Chickens or Partridges. Melt a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and dredge in a spoonful of flour. Let it brown in the oven, stirring well. Add a little boiling water, with pepper, salt (and chopped, hard-boiled egg, if you like). When this has boiled, pour it over the chickens already in the dish. Drawn Butter. (For boiled Fish, Poultry, or Mutton.} 3 tablespoonfuls butter. 1 tablespoonf ul flour. 1 cupful water, or milk. Salt and pepper. Put two tablespoonfuls of the butter in a saucepan. Dinner. 151 When it bubbles, sprinkle in the flour, and let it cook thoroughly, but not discolor. Stir constantly ; the best way is to use an egg-beater. Add the water and season- ing, stirring well. Let it boil up once ; then strain, and add the rest of the butter, cut in small pieces. Drawn butter should be made with great care. It is the chief of sauces, and comes constantly into use. If you choose, add a few drops of lemon-juice or vinegar just be- fore serving. Egg Sauce. (Used like Drawn Butter.) Make " Drawn Butter." When ready to serve, stir in three or four hard-boiled eggs chopped coarse. Caper or Pickle Sauce. (Used like Drawn Butter.} Make "Drawn Butter." Just before serving, stir in three tablespoonfuls of capers. A good sauce can be made by substituting chopped pickles for the capers. Currant Jelly Sauce. ( For Roast Mutton and Game.) & cupful boiling water. A pinch of cinnamon. A pinch of cloves. 1 tablespoonful brown sugar. 4 lemon (grated peel only). 4 cupful currant jelly. Mix all together except the jelly. Half an hour before serving set it o*n the fire where it will become very hot, but not boil. A few minutes before serving, dissolve the jelly in it. Let it all become very hot. If you like, substitute wine for the water. 152 How to Cook Well. Tomato Sauce. (For Chops, Beefsteak, Cutlets or Fish.} 1 teaspoonful salt. A little black pepper. A speck of cayenne pepper. ( 1 teaspoonful chopped onion. \ 1 tablespoonf ul butter. 2 table spoonfuls flour. \ can tomatoes. 1 cupful water (or stock). 2 cloves 1 teaspoonful herbs, mixed. 1 sprig parsley, minced (may be omitted). Boil together all but the last three ingredients, and strain. Fry the onion in the butter till yellow, and add the flour mixed to a cream with cold water. When all is well mixed, pour into the frying-pan grad- ually the strained tomato. Cook all together five minutes, and strain again. Pour it while hot over the chops, cut- lets, or whatever you choose. Tomato Sauce (simpler). 1 teaspoonful butter. 1 tablespoonful flour. Red pepper. {1 can tomatoes. 1 small onion. 2 sprigs parsley. Put the tomatoes over the fire, with the onion and pars- ley ; when they have boiled some twenty minutes, strain them through a sieve. Put the butter into a sauce-pan, and when it bubbles sprinkle in the flour, which let cook, stirring well. Then pour in the tomato pulp ; season highly with red pepper ; if lumpy, strain. Excellent Tomato Sauce can be made by pulping what may be left of " Fried Tomatoes," and heating it without any additions. Tomato Sauce With White Sauce. peck tomatoes. 2 small carrots, cut fine. 1 onion, cut fine. 2 ounces salt pork, cut fine. 2 ounces raw ham, cut fine. 4 ounces butter. Wash the tomatoes, bruise, and put them in a sauce-pan 2 ounces flour. 1 quart "White Sauce.' Pepper and salt. 1 bunch of parsley. 1 tablespoonful sugar. Dinner. 153 over a slow fire to dissolve. Put into another sauce-pan, the vegetables, salt pork and ham, with half the butter ; stir over the fire until the butter turns clear. Then add the flour, sprinkling it in gradually. Cook a little longer, and add the tomato (strained), and the White Sauce. Mix well and season. Put in the parsley. Cover and boil slowly forty minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain through a sieve. Boil again a few minutes, adding the rest of the butter. Curry Sauce. (For Egg, Chicken, Fish, etc.) / 1 tablespoonful chopped onion. 1 1 tablespoonful butter. f 1 teaspoonful Curry Powder. 1 2 tablespoonf uls flour. A pinch salt. 1 pint milk, hot. Fry the onion in the butter (when hot) for five min- utes, and be very careful it does not burn. Mix the curry and flour, and stir it into the butter. Add salt and hot milk gradually and stir vigorously till perfectly smooth. Bread Sauce. (For Roast Poultry and Game.) 1 pint milk. 1 onion, minced. 1 cupful bread-crumbs. Pepper and salt to taste. A pinch of mace. 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Simmer the onion in the milk until tender. Have the bread-crumbs in a sauce-pan ; pour over them the milk, cover, and soak half an hour. Then beat very smooth, and add seasoning and butter. Stir well, boil up once, and serve. If too thick, add boiling water and more but- ter. 154 How to Cook Well. 1 pint milk. Cream Sauce, or White Sauce. (For Tongue, Fish, etc.} tcaspoonf ul salt. Butter the size of a large egg. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Chopped parsley (may be omit- ted). Boil the milk. Put the butter in a sauce-pan, and stir over the fire till it bubbles. Then add to it the flour, rubbed to a cream in a little cold water. Stir all together quickly till smooth. Pour on the milk gradually, stirring constantly, and season. Lastly, add the parsley. If for tongue, stir in one tablespoonf ul capers or chopped pickle ; if for fish, use more flour, and add half a cupful of the water in which the fish was boiled. Bechamel Sauce. Butter size of a walnut. 1 table spoonful flour, f 1 cupful strong hot veal " stock." 1 1 bunch herbs. 1 cupful boiling cream. A little grated nutmeg. Put the butter in a sauce-pan. When it bubbles stir in the flour. Do not let it brown. Then add the other things (the herbs being previously boiled with the stock and strained out). Stir well, simmer a few minutes and strain. Sauce Hollandaise. (For Boiled Fish or Asparagus.} / Butter size of a nutmeg. 1 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 cupful boiling water or veal " stock." 4 eggs (yolks only), i a lemon (juice only). Butter size of a walnut. Put the smaller lump of butter into a sauce-pan. When it bubbles, stir in the flour, and cook thoroughly. Then stir in the water or stock. When boiling, remove, and Dinner. 155 pour it over the eggs (beaten light). Return to the fire long enough to cook the eggs, but do not let it boil. Take it off, and stir in the lemon-juice. Then add the rest of the butter, cut into small bits. Stir all together well. Mint Sauce. (For Roast Lamb.} 4 tablcspoonfuls chopped mint. I i cupful vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar, j Mix and let it stand in the gravy-boat about two hours before serving. Sauce Piquante. (For Meat.) 2 tablcspoonfuls butter. 2 tablespoonfuls browned flour. 1 pint "stock." i cupful vinegar. Salt and pepper. 1 tablespoouful chopped pars- ley. 1 tablospoonf ul chopped onions. 1 tablespoonf ul capers. Melt the butter. Add the flour and stir till smooth, then put in the other things. Let it just come to a boil ; then pour it over hot tongue, or any kind of meat. Lobster Sauce. (No 1.) (For Boiled Fish or Poultry.) Buy a boiled lobster. Pick out all the spawn and red coral. Pound these in a mortar. Moisten them with a spoonful of hot water, and one of melted butter. Pass the mixture through a hair sieve. Add to this all the meat of the lobster, cut into small pieces, and mix in one quarter of a pound more of melted butter. Place the whole in a porcelain sauce-pan, with a very little cream and cayenne pepper. Cover it and let it stew slowly. Tt must not boil. This would deprive it of its fine coral color. To be served hot. 156 How to Cook Well. No. 2. Put all the small bones and scraps of meat with a pint of cold water to cook. When the lobster flavor is well extracted, strain off the liquor, or stock. Make a sauce as follows : \ cupful butter. 2 tablespoonf uls flour, i teaspoon ful salt. i saltspoonful pepper. A speck of cayenne. Lobster stock, hot. cupful butter, cut fine. 2 tablespoonfuls lemon-juice. 1 cupful lobster meat, cut in dice. Melt the butter in a frying-pan ; add the flour and seasoning. Stir till smooth, then put in the other things and stew slowly. Serve hot. Use the coral to garnish the dish with which the sauce is served. A good way is to break up the coral and put it in a slow oven for half an hour. Then pound it in a mortar, and sprinkle it over the boiled fish. Very good Lobster Sauce can be made from the tail and claws alone. Oyster Sauce. (For Boiled Fish or Poultry.} 1 dozen oysters. | cupful butter. | cupful flour. A little salt. A pinch cayenne pepper. | cupful cream. Scald the oysters in their liquor adding a little water if there is not much liquor. Dip them out, and add to the boiling liquor the butter and flour rubbed together, the seasoning'and cream. While it thickens, chop the oysters very fine, and then add them. Boil up a moment, and serve at once, either in a gravy-boat, or poured over boiled fish or chicken. This may be made of the juice only of oysters which have been used for something else. Dinner. 157 Cranberry Sauce. 1 quart cranberries. 1 pint sugar. 1 1 cupful water. Wash and pick over the berries, add the water and stew for twenty minutes if they are the dark kind the bright red take longer to cook. Mash them often against the sides of the sauce-pan with a wooden spoon. Take from the fire, and stir in the sugar till dissolved. (If cooked with them it will spoil the color of the sauce.) Pour into wet moulds, to form, pulping through a colander if the tough-skinned, bright red berries have been used. If the sauce is preferred soft, use more water in cooking. Prepared Mustard. 2 tablespoonf uls dry mustard. 1 tablespoonful of flour. . J cupful water. 1 teaspoonful sugar (may be omitted). | cupful good vinegar. Mix the mustard and flour together and stir to a paste with the water. Add the vinegar and boil till thick, stir- ring well. Remove and mix in the sugar. Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. (For Beefsteak, Boiled Meat, or Fish.) Butter, size of an egg. i lemon, juice only. A little parsley, chopped line. Pepper and salt. Mix all together ; spread over broiled meat or fish when hot, and put in the oven for a few minutes that the but- ter may penetrate the meat. MEATS. POULTRY, GAME, ETC. To Select Poultry. Old turkeys and fowls have hard, scaly feet and legs. To be sure of getting young ones, choose those that have smooth legs and moist feet. (Yellow-legged chickens are 158 How to Cook Well. considered the best.) The skin should be thin and tender, and the breast bone can be bent when pressed by the finger. The best ducks have thick, firm breasts. If young, the web of the feet will be transparent, and they will feel t tender under the wing. An old duck or goose is utterly worthless. Young geese have a delicate skin. The breast should be plump, the bills and feet yellow. Green Geese (that is, geese about four months old) are best. To Prepare Poultry. Clean it the moment it comes into your possession after being killed. If the entrails lie long in poultry they im- part an unpleasant, sour taste to the whole inside, and the giblets of fowls bought in market are often unfit for use from this cause. To Clean or Draw Fowls. Lay the chicken on its back, and make a long incision from the end of the breast- bone to the tail. Keeping the tail toward the right hand, run the hand into the body, keeping it dose to the flesh on the left side of the chicken. With a firm grasp close the fingers tight around the entrails, and draw them out without loosening the hold, as that might break the gall- bag. If a particle of gall (which can be known by its green color) escapes within the chicken, it will be ruined by the bitter taste which will impregnate the whole. Even a drop of it on the knife used in preparing the chicken will spoil whatever it touches. Lay on one side the heart and liver, cutting off any part that looks green. Then cut open the gizzard ; scrape out the inside, and throw it into hot water for a moment, after which the thick outer skin can easily be removed. Next, make an incision along the backbone just below the neck, and draw out the crop, and the large cord at the neck. Dinner. 159 Pick out the pin-feathers carefully, and singe off the hairs by holding the fowl by the feet over a blazing paper laid on top of the stove, and turning it on all sides. Cut off the legs at the first joint, and cut off the neck, leaving the skin, and lay it with the giblets for gravy. To Wash Poultry. Fill the inside with cold water, holding it over a pan. Keeping the hands over the open- ings, shake hard. Rinse it in this way in several waters. In next to the last, it is well to dissolve one teaspoon- ful of soda, if there is any sourness. To Stuff and Truss Poultry. Make a " stuffing." Fill the inside, using a teaspoon, and sew it up, doubling back- wards the skin at the neck, and sewing it. Cross the ends of the legs, and tie them to the tail. Double the wings, and fasten them close to the body, with a string. Poultry never looks well when dished, unless proper attention is paid to trussing. It is well to stuff and truss the fowl the day before it is to be cooked. The flavor of the stuffing then permeates the whole, and it is, besides, a conven- ience to a busy housekeeper. To Keep Poultry, it should be put in a cold place, but not where it will freeze, as that destroys the flavor. Wrap it in a cloth, to keep it moist. Hang it, or place it breast downwards on a shelf. If there is danger of its spoiling, or if the weather is warm, parboil it, after cleaning it. Poultry is tenderer and better for being kept several days after being killed. Boast Turkey. (See " To Prepare Poultry."") Put it in the dripping-pan ; pour one cupful boiling water over the top ; dredge with flour, and put it in the oven, with a slow fire, allowing twenty minutes to the pound (or about three hours for a large turkey). Let it heat through, gradually ; for if the fire is hot at first, the 160 How to Cook Well. turkey will be raw inside, and nothing can remedy this afterwards. Have the pan as far as possible from the fire, and after half an hour, draw it nearer. Baste very often, with the drippings in the pan, and occasionally with but- ter (unless the turkey is very fat), and dredge it every time after basting. Turn the pan often. When half done dredge with salt and pepper. Be sure not to take it out until thoroughly tender when pierced by a fork through the thickest part. Just before taking it out, baste with melted butter and sprinkle with flour. Before serving remove strings and thread. Serve with " Giblet Gravy," and " Cranberry Sauce," or any tart If you use " Chestnut Stuffing," add boiled chestnuts to the gravy, and reserve the giblets for "Potatoes with Giblets." Boiled Turkey. A hen tarkey is best. Stuff it or not, as you choose. The nicest way is to use an " Oyster Stuffing." Truss it carefully. (See " To Prepare Poultry.") Flour a cloth and pin around the turkey, to preserve its whiteness. Plunge into a large pot of boiling water, salted. Cover close, and boil slowly, for two hours, without stopping. Then take off the cloth. The prettiest way to serve it is on a bed of boiled rice. Serve " Drawn Butter " with it, or if oysters are used in the stuffing, make a gravy of one pint of the liquor in the pot, and add a few chopped oysters with their liquor. Save the pot liquor for soup, and the giblets for " Potatoes with Giblets." If convenient, the turkey may be set on the back of the stove the last half-hour. If covered close, the steam will finish cooking it. Dinner. 161 Roast Chickens. Just like "Roast Turkey." Roast nearly one hour and a half. This is better than to hurry them in a hot oven, as chickens should be well done inside. Boiled Chickens. Just like " Boiled Turkey." This is a good way to cook chickens that are not young, as the long, slow boiling will make them tender. Boil one hour at least. If old, a longer time will be necessary. Stewed Fowl with Oysters. (A Canadian Receipt.) Choose a young fowl. Fill the inside with oysters. Put it in a jar or tin pail without water and cover tight. Put the jar in a large pot of boiling water, and boil steadily for an hour and a half. Then lay the fowl on a hot platter. Make a white sauce of the juice which re- mains from the chicken and oysters, by adding to it while boiling a little cream or milk, in which one tablespoon fill of flour has been rubbed smooth. Season with salt and pepper, and add a few whole oysters. When these " ruffle " pour the sauce over the chicken. This is very delicious, the meat being white and tender, and all the flavor preserved. Fricasseed Chicken (white). Clean, wash and cut a chicken in pieces. Put into boil- ing water, with half a pound of salt pork, cut into strips. Boil sloicly, skimming occasionally, for an hour. Then lay the chicken on a hot platter, lined with slices of toast. Strain the liquor, and put one pint of it in a sauce-pan, with a little chopped celery, if you have it. Rub smooth one fourth of a cupful of flour in one cupful of milk, and 162 How to Cook Well. pour in when the liquor boils. When smooth, pour it upon one or two eggs (beaten light). * Return to the fire for a moment, but do not curdle the egg. Pour this sauce over the chicken. No. 2. Make as above, but omit the salt pork, and add salt to the water. When making the gravy, boil the milk with the liquor ; then make a " roux" and pour the hot liquor on it. Pour the gravy over the chicken. This is more delicate, but perhaps more troublesome, than the other way. Old fowls will do for this. Fricasseed Chicken (brown). Cut into pieces, a young chicken, and fry it in lard, with a little minced onion. When brown, add one tablespoon- f ul flour ; cook a moment, stirring constantly. Add three cupfuls boiling water, salt and pepper (also allspice and cloves, if you like). Boil slowly till the chicken is very tender. Dish on toast, as above. Thicken the gravy with " Browned Flour," and add one tablespoonful Worcester- shire Sauce or Walnut Catsup. Pour this over the chicken. Pried Chicken. Jojnt a young chicken. "Egg-and-crumb " the pieces, or dredge with flour. Fry in plenty of hot lard over a moderate fire, or they will not be done through. Turn the pieces when half done, and season. Fry nearly one hour, being careful not to let them burn. Lay on a hot platter and dress with parsley. Pried Chicken with Cream Gravy. Joint two tender spring chickens. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and dredge with flour. Have ready in a frying- pan half a pound of salt pork, cut into slices. When it be- gins to brown take it out, and lay the pieces of chicken in the fat which remains. Fry them slowly, and turn them Dinner. 163 often. It will be nearly an hour before they are done. When tender, lay the chickens on a hot platter. Pour into the frying-pan one and one half cupfuls of cream. Boil up a minute. Then add one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed into one tablespoonful of butter. Stir while the gravy thickens, and then pour over and around the chicken. Fried Chicken with Mush Cakes. (An Old Maryland Receipt.} For the mush cakes make " Corn Meal Hasty Pudding," rather stiffer than usual. Pour it into a flat dish about half an inch thick and set aside to become cold. When ready to fry for dinner cut it in squares or round cakes, and fry in hot lard. Serve around the chicken, with Cream Gravy poured over it. See " Fried Chicken with Cream Gravy." Smothered Chicken. (An Old Virginia Receipt.) Clean and wash small chickens. Split them down the back as for broiling. Lay them flat in a dripping-pan, and pour one cupful of boiling water over them. Set them in a moderate oven, covered tight with an inverted pan ; roast with a steady heat, basting often with butter, and with the water in the pan. The chickens must be left cov- ered each time they are basted. In three quarters of an hour they should begin to brown. Increase the heat, and in a few minutes dish them, first testing their tenderness with a fork. When done, they should be of a mellow, brown hue on top. Sprinkle over them salt and pepper. Thicken the gravy left in the pan, with a little " Browned Flour," and add a little hot water, if necessary. Season with salt, pepper and parsley, and serve in a gravy-boat. 164 How to Cook Wett. Curried Chicken. Slice an onion, and fry it in butter till brown. Scatter in one tablespoonful of curry powder. Cover, and cook a few minutes. Add more butter, and put in the chicken cut in pieces, and dredged with flour. Fry till tender. Serve in a bed of rice, if you like ; but it is very good with- out. Veal cut in pieces is very good cooked thus, and is cheaper than chicken. Broiled Chicken. Choose a tender spring chicken for this purpose. Cut it open down the length of the back. Clean it, wash, and wipe dry. Dip each half into melted butter. Lay on a hot, buttered gridiron over a fire not too hot at first. (It is a good plan to begin to broil it before the coal, freshly put on over a very hot fire, has kindled very much.) Put the inside toward the coals first. Lay a pan or tin cover over the chicken, with a weight on it, to keep the pieces flat. Turn them over in ten minutes. Broil half an hour. Season with pepper and salt just be- fore dishing, and lay on bits of butter just after. Roast Ducks. See "To Prepare Poultry." If they are not young, parboil them. Roast like chickens, allowing one hour, if you like them well done ; though if young they will cook in less time. Serve with "Giblet Gravy" or "Bread Sauce" and "Apple Sauce," "Cranberry Sauce," Currant or Grape Jelly. Stewed Duck. This is the only way to render an old duck fit to eat. Cut it up, having cleaned and washed it. Put in a pot with cold water enough to just cover it. Cover, and heat gradually. Then stew slowly for two hours, with a few Dinner. 1G5 slices of ham, and the giblets, also a minced onion, and a little minced parsley if you have it, and sage. When ten- der, lay the duck on a platter. Thicken the gravy with a little " Browned Flour," and add, if you like, the juice of half a lemon and one wineglassful of wine. Pour over the duck and serve. Line the platter with slices of toast if you choose. Boast Goose. Parboil for half an hour to remove the oil. Then stuff, and roast like a chicken, and for the same length of time. Serve like *' Roast Ducks." Boast Pigeons. The birds must be young and tender for this purpose. Clean them and put a little piece of butter in them, stuff and truss them. Tie thin slices of bacon over the breast. Lay them in rows, in a dripping-pan, with a little hot water. Set in a hot oven and baste often. Serve with "Gravy." Stewed Pigeons. Clean, wash, stuff and tie them in shape. Lay them in a sauce-pan, close together, on their backs. Cover them with boiling water. Lay a few slices of bacon over the tops of the pigeons. Stew gently until tender about one hour. Then season with pepper, salt, butter, and a little summer savory, also minced parsley, if you like. Dish the pigeons, thicken the gravy with a little flour, boil up once, and pour over the birds. The bacon may be omitted. Some add a little minced carrot and onion. Line the platter with buttered toast, if jou like, or serve the pigeons on a bed of rice. This is the best way to cook pigeons which are not very young. 166 How to Cook Well GAME. Wild Turkey (roasted). Clean at once, and wash the inside very carefully. Then wipe it inside. Make a " Stuffing " and add to it a little chopped salt pork. Fill the bird and sew up. Pro- ceed as with ordinary turkey, but baste very often, and either cover the top with slices of salt pork, skewered on, or add, by degrees, half a cupful of butter to the gravy, as you baste, for the meat of wild turkey is very dry. Serve with " Gravy " and " Cranberry Sauce," or Currant Jelly. Wild Ducks (roasted). Clean at once and wash well. Lay an onion in each and parboil them for ten minutes. This will take away the strong, disagreeable flavor. Throw away the onion and stuff the ducks. Roast like chicken, adding a lump of butter to the water in the pan, the first time you baste them. Have the oven hot, and cook them for half an hour. Serve with " Giblet Gravy," and " Cranberry Sauce," or Currant Jelly. Another Way is to omit the parboiling, and put them in a pan, with an onion and hot water ; baste often for fifteen minutes. Then take out and proceed to roast in another pan. Wild Duck (stewed). Parboil as in the last receipt. Throw away the onion, and cut up the duck. Then proceed as with " Stewed Duck." Prairie Chickens or Grouse Roasted. Prepare and roast like chickens, but rub the inside of each with melted butter, and put butter in the stuffing. Add butter to the water in the pan when you baste them. Dinner. 1G7 Just before serving them, dredge with flour, and baste with butter to froth them. Roast grouse three quarters of an hour. It is an im- provement to lay a slice of salt pork in the pan, and use the drippings to baste with. Prairie Chickens. {Another Way.) Prepare like chickens for roasting. Put them in a steamer (or a colander with a tight cover), over hot water, and steam until nearly done. Then put them in a pan, spread them with butter, set in a hot oven and baste often with melted butter, till nicely browned (about fifteen minutes). Then baste again and dredge on Hour to froth them. Serve with parsley, and Currant Jelly. Another way is to tie a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each bird. Put them in a dripping-pan, with a cup of boiling water ; cover and set it on top of the stove for ten or fifteen minutes. Uncover, take off the pork, and dredge with flour. Set the pan in the oven, and pro- ceed to roast them. Prairie Chickens (broiled). Dip in melted butter, when you have split them open down the back. Proceed as with broiled chickens. Serve with Currant Jelly, or " Cranberry Sauce." It is a good plan, before broiling a prairie chicken, to cut out the breast, and lay it aside while you joint and par- boil the rest, which is tough. Then rub all with butter, and broil. Potted Partridges. Stuff and truss partridges as you do fowls, and flour them. Melt a spoonful of butter in a small pot, and then dredge in a spoonful of flour. When it is browned, lay in the partridges. Cover them with a cup of cold water, 168 How to Cook Well and put the lid on the pot. When the birds begin to brown shake the pot frequently and gently, turning the birds from side to side till browned all over. When done, they can be easily pierced by a fork. Then place them side by side neatly on a platter, and pour the gravy over them. Quail on Toast. Clean and cut the quail down the back. Salt, pepper and dredge them with flour. Break the breast and back bones, so that they will lie flat. Then place them in a pan, with a very little water and butter. Cover tight, and set in a very hot oven, till nearly done. Have ready some hot butter in a frying-pan. Fry the quail a few minutes until brown. Line a platter with buttered toast. Put the quail on the toast. Make a sauce to pour over it, as follows : Put the dripping pan on top of the stove. When the gravy boils, season it, and thicken with " Browned Flour." Broiled Quail. Split them down the back, and proceed as with " Broiled Chicken." Serve on slices of buttered toast. Put spoon- fuls of Currant Jelly on the edges of the toast as a gar- nish. It may be served without toast. Wild Pigeon (stewed). As wild pigeons are often tough, this is the best way to cook them. See " Stewed Pigeons." To Cook Small Birds (any kind). Roast or broil with a very hot fire. Roll the birds in melted butter before cooking, and baste with butter. See also "Prairie Chickens, Another Way." Serve with "Tomato Sauce" or Currant Jelly. Or lay each one on a slice of toast, and surround it with boiled peas or rice. Dinner. 1G9 Partridges, quail, snipe and woodcock require to be in the oven about twenty-five minutes to suit the taste of most persons, though some prefer them underdone ; in this case fifteen minutes will suffice. " Bread Sauce " is nice with them. Venison Steak (broiled). Heat a gridiron and butter it. Lay the steaks on it, over a clear, hot fire. Turn them often (without piercing them with a fork, so as not to lose the juice) and do not let them dry out. Cook about fifteen minutes. Lay in a hot dish ; sprinkle at once with pepper and salt, and put fine shavings of butter over the top. Pour over all " Currant .Telly Sauce " or a little melted Currant Jelly. Add to the latter one or two tablespoonfuls of wine, if you have it, but this is not necessary. Some omit even the jelly, using slices of lemon instead. Another way is, to mix together the jelly, butter and wine, and heat them. Pour them into a hot platter, and lay in the steak when done. Turn it several times, till all is absorbed, then serve on a clean, hot platter. Baked Haunch of Venison. Wash thoroughly, and wipe dry. Then rub the whole surface with melted butter. Lay it in a dripping-pan, con- taining a little beef "stock," or water in which you have boiled the ragged ends of venison, which you have trimmed off one end to give a better shape to the haunch. Dredge thickly with flour, and cover with a buttered paper. Then put it in the oven, which should be pretty hot, and kept steady. Baste it every fifteen minutes, the whole time it is cooking, lifting the paper to do it. When it has been in one hour, increase the heat, and take off the paper. Flour it thickly, and cover the top with thin slices of salt pork held in place by skewers. One half an hour before serving add a large lump of butter to the gravy ; remove 170 How to Cook Well. the pork, baste the meat, and sprinkle the top with pep- per and salt. Dredge with'flour, and after this baste about once in eight minutes. The length of time required for cooking depends upon the size. A good rule is fifteen or twenty minutes to the pound. Serve it with a frill of fringed paper twisted around the knuckle. Have ready a " Gravy." Put this into a gravy-boat, and serve Currant Jelly also with the haunch. Some persons cover the haunch with a paste of flour and water when first put into the oven. If this is done, remove it half an hour before serving, and baste often w r ith melted butter after this. It should not be taken from the oven till the thickest part can be easily pierced by a skewer. Neck or Shoulder of Venison. Cook like the Haunch, allowing one quarter of an hour to a pound. Saddle of Venison. Make deep incisions, following the grain of the meat from the top. Insert in these long and narrow pieces of pork. Lay the meat in a dripping-pan, and proceed as with beef ; but baste oftener, and have the oven hotter. Allow about fifteen minutes to a pound. Serve Currant Jelly with it. Boast Rabbit. As soon as possible skin, clean and hang it over night. When ready to cook, wash and stuff as you would poul- try. Then sew it up. Lay it in a dripping-pan ; pour a cupful of hot water into the bottom of the pan, and skewer two thin slices of salt pork or bacon, on the top of the rab- bit. Cover it tight with an inverted pan and set in a moderate oven. In half an hour, take off the cover. Re- move the salt pork, add a little butter to the gravy, and Dinner. 171 baste it. Then dredge with flour, and let it brown, bast- ing it often. It should be ready to serve in an hour from the time it was put in the oven, though the time will de- pend upon the size. Lay it on a platter, and keep hot while you make the " Gravy." Add to the gravy a little lemon juice, and a teaspoonful of minced onion, fried in a teaspoon ful of butter. Fricasseed Rabbit. Do not cook the head or neck. See "Fricasseed Chicken." Fried Rabbit. Only a very tender rabbit is good cooked in this way. Cut into joints, wash and stew slowly for fifteen or twenty minutes in just enough water to cover them. Take out, and dip the pieces of rabbit first into beaten egg, then in crumbs of bread, or cracker. Have ready a frying-pan, containing several pieces of salt pork ; fry them crisp. Remove them and lay in the rabbit. Fry until brown on every side. When nearly done, add pepper and salt. It may be fried without parboiling, but should then be cooked a much longer time, and over a more moderate fire. Squirrels. Cooked like Rabbits. See also " Brunswick Stew." MEATS. EEMARKS. Beef is best in winter and early spring, though it is good all the year round. Mutton is best in spring, veal and lamb in summer, and pork in early winter. In choosing meat, never buy that in which the fat is very yellow ; it shows that the animal was diseased. The 172 How to Cook Well. fat should be white, and the lean of beef and mutton, a clear bright red color. Veal should look white and be fat. That meat is most juicy and tender which has fine streaks of fat intermingled with the lean. It is always cheaper to buy a large piece of meat, and have the butcher cut steaks from that for you, than to buy a roast and steak on two successive days. But of course it is only in winter that meat should be bought by the quantity. An eco- nomical piece of beef is the back part of the rump. It is a long piece, without much fat or bone, and weighs about ten pounds. Have the thickest end cut into steaks, and cut off the thin end with the bone, for soup. Roast what is left. In winter, keep meat as long as possible before cooking ; it makes it more tender. Keep it in a cold place, but do not let it freeze, if it can be helped, for it partly destroys the flavor. If frozen, it must be thoroughly thawed before cooking. Do this by soaking it in cold water for two or three hours before using. In summer, keep meat on ice, and do not buy much at a time. Meat which has been cooked and set in the refrigerator will often gather moisture. If so it should be set in the oven for a few minutes, even if it is to be served cold. If you have no refrigerator, set the meat on the cellar floor, covered tight to prevent flies from getting at it. N. B. Always have the butcher send home any bones and trimmings belonging to the meat you purchased. These will often weigh as much as one pound, and are ex- cellent to use for stock for soup. To Roast Meat. Roasting before an open fire is out of date in most fam- ilies. The term is applied now to cooking in an oven. In roasting meat the oven should be of a moderate heat at first, so that it will be cooked on the inside ; increase Dinner. 173 the heat afterwards. Wash the meat, unless freshly cut, put it in a dripping-pan, and pour one cupful of boiling water over the top. This will cook the surface, and keep the juices in. Dredge the top of the meat with flour, and set in the oven. Do not pepper and salt it till half-done, but baste it often (f. e. wet the top by pouring over it the juice from the pan or a little water and melted butter), while it is cooking. Dredge it again, with flour, after basting it the first time after you have seasoned it. Meat that is to be rare should have the oven hot at first. Small pieces also require to be cooked in a hotter oven than large ones, or they will be dried up. To Boil Meat. All meat should be boiled very slowly, this will make it tender; if boiled fast even a tender piece will become hard and tough. Keep the pot covered, and as the water boils down fill up gradually from the tea-kettle which should be kept boiling in readiness. The meat should boil contin- uously till done. If the piece is a very tough one, about one tablespoonful of vinegar added to the water will make it tender, and will not affect the taste. Roast Beef. The best pieces for roasting are the tenderloin (an ex- pensive piece), the sirloin, and rib-pieces. The latter are usually chosen for a small family, and are very good, the sixth, seventh and eighth ribs being the best. If you get a rib piece, have the butcher take out the bone, and roll and tie the meat in shape. (Be sure to have the bones and trimmings sent home.) If there is much fat on the surface, cover the roast with a paste of flour and water. It should be removed half an hour before the meat is done. (This paste is not neces- sary, but an improvement.) Have the oven rather hot, if 174 How to Cook Well. you like beef rare, and allow twelve minutes to the pound. If preferred well-done, have the oven moderate, and cook a longer time. Serve with " Gravy." Beefsteak. The best pieces are cut from the rump, or through the sirloin. However, different butchers serve different pieces under the same name ; so that the best way to do, is to learn by experience. A good steak for a cheap one is a chuck steak, cut from near the chuck rib. Have the steak cut two thirds of an inch thick, if tender; if doubtful, not so thick. Never wash a steak unless it absolutely needs it ; but wipe off any bits of bone there may be, with a clean cloth. Washing destroys the flavor and makes it tough. Broil over clear, hot coals to ensure its being rare. Turn it, in a minute, and turn repeatedly afterwards. In doing this do not stick a fork into it, if possible, as that allows the juice to escape, which should all be kept inside. If a fork must be used, stick it in at the edge, in that part which looks driest. Keep it covered, while broiling, with a tin plate, and watch it all the time. If the fat drips into the fire and blazes up, put out the blaze by sprinkling salt on it. Ten minutes will be long enough to cook it. Then lay in a hot platter. Season it, and add a very little butter. Let it stand covered a few moments before serving, and take pains to serve it very hot. An excellent addition is " Maitre d'Hotel Sauce," or it may be served with " Tomato Sauce." For those who like gravy in the dish, pour over the meat when dished, coffee left from breakfast, or hot water, which will draw out the juice. Beefsteak and Onions. Broil a steak as above. Have ready three or four chopped onions, fried in butter till delicately browned. Dinner. 175 Lay them thickly over the top of the steak when dished. Let it stand covered a few minutes before serving. Beefsteak with Baked Tomatoes. Broil a tender beefsteak. Take care not to let it burn, and cook it rare. Lay it on a hot platter, as directed. Dot with butter ; pepper and salt it. Have ready some "Baked Tomatoes." With care lift the tomatoes from the pan, and lay them in rather close rows over the sur- face of the steak. When served, the steak should be cut in strips between the tomatoes, and each person helped to a square piece of steak with a tomato on it. Or, you may lay the tomatoes around the edges of the platter. Stuffed Beefsteak. 2 pounds rump steak. 1 cupful " Stuffing." 1 cupful " Stock " or water. 4 cupful catsup. 1 or 2 slices salt pork. Have the steak cut evenly. Make a stuffing as for turkey, adding a little ground cloves. Spread this over the steak, leaving the edges bare. Koll it up tight, and tie firmly in three or four places. Have ready a deep kettle with the salt pork frying in the bottom. When crisp, take it out, and lay in the steak. Turn it often, so that it will brown on every side. Then add the stock or water. Cover, and stew slowly an hour and a half, adding just enough water to keep it from burning if it becomes dry. When tender lay the meat in a platter ; add catsup to the gravy, and thicken it with a little flour if necessary. Pour over the meat, having removed the strings carefully. For a family of five. Mock Duck. Buy a steak from the round, weighing not more than two pounds (or it will be too large to imitate a duck), and 176 How to Cook Well free from fat or bone. Rub both sides with salt and pep- per. Prepare one cup or more of "Stuffing" made as for a roast duck. Add to it a little minced salt pork if you have it ; it is better than butter. Spread the stuffing over the meat not quite to the edges. Roll it up very tight, and tie firmly in four places. Tie a buttered paper around it. Bake (without water) in a moderately hot oven for fully one hour. When more than half done, pour a little boiling water over the top. When done remove paper and strings. Serve hot, with " Bread Sauce," in a gravy- boat. " Cranberry Sauce " should also accompany it. Carve across the stuffing. For a family of four. Beef a la Mode. Buy six or eight pounds from the thickest part of the round. Have the bone removed (save it for stock) and trim off the coarse outside fat. Make deep incisions in every part, not more than half an inch apart. Into half of them push salt pork cut into little narrow strips about two inches long. Fill the rest of the incisions, and the place where the bone was, with the following stuffing: 1 pint bread-crumbs. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. A pinch of red pepper. 1 saltspoonf ul ground cloves. 1 saltspoonf ul allspice. 1 small nutmeg (grated). 2 tablespoonfuls chopped salt pork. 1 teaspoonf ul melted butter. 1 egg, beaten. Stick whole cloves into the meat here and there. Then tie it securely into a good round shape. Put scraps of salt pork in a deep pot. When fried crisp, take them out and lay in the meat. When brown in one spot turn it, so that every part in turn will be browned. Allow about half an hour for this. Then dredge in about two table- spoonfuls of flour and brown it.- Slip a plate under the meat to prevent its burning, and pour in enough boiling water to barely cover the meat. Cover tight to keep in Dinner. 177 the steam (it is well to tie an old towel over the top of the pot), and simmer for about five hours. Watch it carefully, and fill up with boiling water if necessary, add- ing only a little at a time. Serve with the gravy poured over it. It is excellent cold for luncheon or tea. What is left over should be used thus. Some add carrots, turnips and onions (sliced) when the pot is filled up with water ; a few are then laid around the meat, and the rest strained out of the gravy. They give an agreeable flavor. Corned Beef. If it has been long corned, soak the beef for one hour in cold water. Then put it into a large pot of cold water, and boil very slowly, covered, allowing half an hour or more to a pound. Skim often. Many persons like cabbage cut into quarters, or carrots sliced, boiled in the pot with the beef, and served with it, the meat being placed in the centre of the vegetables. The cabbage should be put in to cook one hour, and the carrots three quarters of an hour, before the meat is ready for serving. Press and chop the cabbage before serving. See also Pressed Corned Beef; Boiled Tongue. Wash, and soak over night, if it is smoked, or has been long corned. Bend the tip of the tongue towards the roots and tie firmly, to give it a good shape. Put it into a large pot of cold water. Let it come gradually to a boil ; skim well. Boil slowly, keeping the pot covered. Do not let the water boil down. In three hours prick with a fork ; if it feels tender, it is done. But a very large tongue re- quires five hours. When done, set the pot off, but do not take the tongue out of the water until it is cool. This will make it more tender. When cold remove skin and 178 How to Cook 'Well. roots ; or take them off while hot, if the tongue is to be served hot. In this case, serve with it " White Sauce," or the following Sauce. 1 pint tongue broth. 2 table spoonfuls flour. 1 small onion, minced. 1 small carrot, minced. A little parsley, minced (may be omitted). Salt and pepper. 1 quart tomatoes, stewed, or canned. Bring the broth to a boil. Then thicken with the flour ; add the other ingredients, having strained the tomatoes. Boil fifteen minutes. Strain or not, as you prefer. Roast Veal. The best pieces to roast are the loin and fillet. The breast also is roasted. That and the fillet should be pre- pared like " Beef a la Mode," with incisions filled with stuffing, made with chopped pork. Veal should be well done, and requires a slow oven and a long time to cook. Heat gradually and allow twenty minutes to a pound. It is a great improvement to lay slices of pork over any kind of veal while cooking. Serve roast veal with "Gravy." Spinach is the proper accompaniment to veal. Stewed Breast of Veal. Cut the meat into pieces of a size to help one to each person. In a deep pot fry several slices of salt pork. When crisp, remove them, and lay in the meat. Fry about half an hour, till all sides are brown. Then add the rind of a lemon, cut thin, a little sweet marjoram, and boiling water enough to barely cover the meat. Cover tight, and stew gently two hours. Dish the meat, and pour over it about one pint of the gravy, thickened with "Browned Flour." Dinner. 179 Veal Cutlets or Chops (fried). Fry slices of salt pork till crisp. Take out, and lay into the hot fat the cutlets egged-and-crumbed. Fry slowly (about half an hour) and take care that they do not burn. (Have plenty of fat.) When delicately browned, add salt and pepper, and dish. Do not spoil them by the addition of gravy. They should be crisp. Never wash meat for frying ; it makes it tough. All it needs is to be wiped off with a cloth. Veal Cutlets or Chops (broiled). Trim the rib cutlets neatly, scraping the bone smooth. Broil slowly, as veal should be well done. Have slices of salt pork laid over the veal while cooking, or baste often with melted butter. Season as you serve them. Serve with " Tomato Sauce," if you like. To Prepare Sweet-breads. Veal sweet-breads are best. They will not keep long. Soak them at once in cold water, for about one hour; then parboil them (about fifteen minutes) in salted, boil- ing water, after which put them into cold water again for a few minutes. This will make them firm and white. Remove the skin and little pipes, and put them in a very cool place until ready to cook them again. Sweet-breads (broiled). Prepare as above. When cold and dry, cut them in two. Rub them in melted butter, and lay on a hot buttered gridiron over clear hot coals. Wet them frequently with melted but- ter, and turn them often to prevent their getting hard and dry. When nicely browned, season them, and serve hot. Sweet-breads (fried). When ready to cook, wipe dry and cut them in two. Lay a few slices of salt pork in a frying-pan. When crisp 180 How to Cook Well. lay in the sweet-breads, previously egged-and-crumbed. Do not have the pan over too hot a fire, or they will not be cooked through. Turn them often till tender and brown. Calf's Liver (broiled). Cut the liver into slices half an inch thick, and soak half an hour in cold salt water ; broil over hot coals turning it often. When done, add salt and pepper. Lay it on a hot platter, with several bits of butter on top. Calf's Liver (fried). Cut the liver into thick slices, and soak half an hour in cold salt water. Wipe it dry. Have ready in a frying-pan two or three large slices of salt pork fried crisp. Lay the liver in the pan, keeping it over the hottest part of the fire ; and when brown on one side, turn it on the other. Cut into cubes while browning on the under side, and stir till every side is brown. When done add a very little salt and pepper. Put the liver on a hot platter, and add to the gravy in the frying-pan a cupful of boiling water, and the juice of a lemon (this may be omitted). - Dredge flour into the boiling gravy, and stir while it thickens. Pour it over the liver, and serve. Boast Mutton or Lamb. The parts to roast are the saddle and shoulder ; and the leg, if not very large. Allow twelve or fifteen min- utes to the pound, and as mutton is preferred well done by most persons, do not have the oven very hot at first. Serve with " Gravy," and Currant Jelly. Serve lamb with "Mint Sauce." Greens are suitable with it. Boiled Mutton. The leg is the part to boil. Have the butcher cut off the shank bone, so that it will fit well into the pot. Put Dinner. 181 into salted, boiling water, taking care to have water enough to cover the meat well, and keep it covered all the time, adding boiling water as that in the pot boils down. Allow fifteen minutes to a pound. Boil slowly, without ceasing, till tender when pierced by a fork in the thickest part. Skim the liquor frequently, and save it for broth. Serve with the mutton "Caper Sauce," or " Drawn Butter." Mutton Cutlets. Trim them well and broil or fry like " Veal Cutlets." Serve with or without " Tomato Sauce." Mutton or Lamb Chops. These may be broiled or fried. If fried, be sure and not wash them, or they will be tough. Trim neatly and scrape the bone. Dredge the chops with flour, and fry them slowly with a few slices of salt pork. Move them about often in the pan to prevent their sticking. In about five minutes turn them and season with pepper and a very little salt. When the thickest part can be easily pierced with a fork they are done. Lay them on a hot platter. Pour half a cupful of boiling water into the fry- ing-pan, and dredge in flour slowly, till thick enough for gravy, and pour over ; or serve with " Tomato Sauce." " Egg-and-crumb " them, if you like, before frying, and in- stead of serving with gravy, stack them around a high mound of mashed potato. Roast Pork. The pieces to roast are the shoulder, spare-rib, leg, loin and chine. Pork requires a moderate oven and very thorough cooking. Allow full twenty minutes to a pound, and let it heat through gradually. Then watch it care- fully, as pork burns easily, which ruins it. The spare-rib, or the chine (which is more wholesome and has less fat 182 How to Cook Well. than the spare-rib), should be prepared for roasting by removing most of the fat. Save this to be tried out for lard. The shoulder and the leg should be prepared thus : with a sharp knife score the skin deeply in parallel lines about one inch apart, and make deep incisions in the thick part of the meat. Fill the lines and the incisions with "Stuffing for Duck," moistened with a little vinegar. Sprinkle the entire top with a little powdered sage. A buttered paper should be laid over the top of any piece for roasting. Put it in a dripping-pan, with a very little water in the bottom. Baste often and flour it, removing the paper while you do this. Leave the paper off the last half-hour. Serve with "Apple Sauce" and pickles. Pork Steaks, or Chops. Cut slices from the loin or neck and trim neatly. Lay them in a frying-pan. Turn them often while frying. In fifteen minutes pour off the fat, if there is much of it. Dip the steaks in bread-crumbs, mixed with a little sage. Put back and fry fifteen minutes longer. Serve without gravy. Boiled Ham. Soak in cold water over night, changing the water once or twice. Then wash, rubbing very hard. Put into a large pot of cold water. Cover and simmer slowly, taking care to keep the meat covered with water. Allow for cooking about twenty minutes to the pound. A ham should be very thoroughly done, yet should not be boiled so long as to separate the meat from the bone\ Skim carefully while boiling. When a fork will pierce easily through the thickest part, it is done. Let it remain in the pot until cool. Then skin it. Cover with spots of pepper at uniform distances, and twist a fringed paper around the bone. Dinner. 183 Glazed Ham. Boil a ham as above and remove the skin. Wash the surface with a beaten egg. Moisten one cup powdered crackers thoroughly with milk. Add one teaspoonful of melted butter, and work the whole to a paste. Spread this evenly and thickly over the ham. Brown delicately in a slow oven. Best Way to Cook a Ham. Boil as above, but take it out when half-done, or at the end of three hours, and remove the skin. Cover the fat side with powdered cracker, which will adhere better if the surface is first rubbed with egg. Then put it in a dripping-pan in a moderate oven for the rest of the time. The baking roasts out a great deal of the fat, and leaves the meat much more delicate. Do not bake it so long as to make it dry, or cause it to separate from the bone. Save the fat in the pan for frying potatoes. The ham bone should be saved to boil with soup. Chop the meat left on the bone for sandwiches. Other Ways of Cooking Meats. (See Index.) STEWS. Veal Stew. 2 pounds veal steak. 1 small potato sliced. 2 hard-boiled eggs (may be 1 cupful milk. Salt and pepper to taste. 2 table spoonfuls of flour. omitted). Cut the veal into lumps. Put it into a skillet with but just enough cold water to cover the meat. Put in the potato. Cover the skillet and stew gently nearly half an hour, taking care that the water does not boil away. When the meat is tender take it out, and add the milk to 184 How to Cook Well. the broth. Rub the flour smooth in a little cold. milk. Pour into the broth when the latter is boiling again. Season with butter, salt and pepper. Slice the eggs nnd put into the broth, let all boil up once, then pour over the meat and serve hot. Veal Stew with Dumplings. 2 pounds veal. {1 quart flour. 3 teaspoonf uls baking powder, i teaspoonf ul salt. Cut the veal in pieces, put it on to stew in cold water, enough to more than cover it. Do not let it boil fast. When actually boiling, drop in with a spoon a spoonful at a time, a mixture made as follows : stir into the flour the baking powder and salt, with enough cold water to make a stiff dough. The water should be put into the batter gradually, stirring all the lumps out as you proceed. Boil twenty-five minutes after the dumplings are put in, without stopping, and without removing the lid from the kettle. Eat at once, as the dumplings become heavy by standing long. Knuckle of Veal Stew. 2 small knuckles veal. 4 quarts water. 4 or 5 eggs, boiled hard, yolks only (may be omitted) . J cupful butter, or less. " Browned Flour." Cloves and mace. Salt and pepper. Boil the veal very gently in the water. When it be- gins to boil, skim it well. When thoroughly cooked, take from the plot, and cut it from the bones in small pieces. Rub the yolks smooth with the butter and several spoon- fuls of " Browned Flour," and add it to the water in which the veal was boiled. When cooked enough, put in the meat with the seasoning. Boil up once and serve. Dinner. 185 Pilau. (A Turkish Dish.") pounds lamb, veal, or chicken. li cupf uls raw rice (washed). Pepper and salt. v2 quarts cold water. Buy pieces from the neck, shank, rib, or any odd cheap pieces. Each piece should be cut of a size to help to one person without cutting at the table. Put the meat on to boil without removing either bones or fat. Boil slowly, covered. Do not fill up the pot as the water boils down. When it has boiled for one and a half hours, add pepper and salt, and put in the rice soaked for half an hour. Let all boil together till the rice has absorbed all the broth, probably for half an hour. Boil more and more slowly toward the last, and stir often to prevent its burning. Add a little hot water, if the broth is absorbed, before the rice is done. When ready to serve, remove any ill-look- ing bones, and lay the pieces of meat on a hot platter, with the rice laid over and around them. A cheap and delicious dish, for breakfast, luncheon, or a plain dinner. Calcutta Curry. 2 chickens (boiled and jointed). 3 or 4 slices salt pork. Butter size of an egg. 3 onions (sliced fine). A dredging of flour. Salt. Boiling water (about 1 quart). Slices of lemon. 1 tablespoonf ul curry powder. Have the chicken cold and dry. Fry the salt pork in a deep flat-bottomed kettle, adding the butter when it be- gins to brown. Then put in the- onions, and fry a light brown. Remove them and the pork, and put in the pieces of chicken. Let them fry gently in the fat. While frying, dredge the chicken with the curry powder and a little flour and salt. Turn it, so as to brown all sides. Add boiling water, only enough to make a little gravy. 186 How to Cook Well. Stew slowly for fifteen minutes. Dish the chicken, and pour the gravy over, without further thickening. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve " Boiled Rice " with it. Veal or lamb may be used for Curry. Curried Pilau. Make " Pilau," and shortly before serving, sprinkle into the rice half a teaspoonful curry powder, or more, if you like it. This will be enough for most American palates. Stir well and dish. A more economical way (which yet furnishes a good dish) is to use meat and rice already cooked. Joint or cut it into large pieces, and boil with it whatever bones you may have. They can be removed at the last, and they furnish a good deal of richness to the broth. Mutton Stew. Buy rib, neck, or any inferior pieces. Have the bones cracked, and take off most of the fat. Cut the meat into pieces of a good size for helping. Throw into a pot and cover with cold water. Heat gradually and simmer for over an hour, seasoning it when half done. Then dish the meat and thicken the gravy with one or two tablespoon- f uls of flour. Add a little chopped pickle, or " Tomato Catsup," or " Stewed Tomato," and pour over the meat. The addition of sweet marjoram or cloves is liked by many. The tomato is particularly nice with mutton. Beef Stew. Get the middle cut of the shin, or meat from the top of the round, or back of the rump ; but any part that has bone and fat as well as lean is good for stew. As this mode of cooking meat renders it more tender, the tough, cheap parts are just as good as any, and the bone gives richness. Even the thin end of a sirloin or rib roast may be used. Dinner. 187 Cut your meat into small pieces, and if it has not been previously cooked, dredge it with salt, pepper and flour, and brown it in salt pork or drippings. Put it into the stew-pan with what bones you may have. Cut two onions, one small white turnip, and half a small carrot, into half-inch dice. Cook them slightly in the drippings, and add to the stew. Add boiling water enough to cover, and simmer two or three hours. Remove the bones and skim off the fat. Have ready pared six or eight small potatoes, soaking in cold water. When the meat is nearly done, slice and add them to the stew. Then salt and pepper to taste. "Dumplings" may be added to the stew when the potatoes are nearly done. Cover closely to keep in the steam, and cook ten minutes without lift- ing the cover. Put the meat and potatoes in the centre of a hot platter, and the dumplings around. If the broth is not thick enough, thicken with a little flour. Add, if you like, a cupful of strained tomato, and one teaspoonful chopped parsley. Pour it over the meat and serve. Irish Stew. 2 pounds beef, from the round. 3 quarts cold water. 1 large turnip, sliced. 2 carrots, sliced. 6 potatoes, sliced. 4 onions, sliced. 1 heaping tablespoonful salt. A little pepper. 1 cupful flour. Buy from the cheap end of the round. Three hours before dinner, cut the meat into pieces about two inches square. Put it in a pot with the water, add the turnip and carrots. Let all boil very slowly together, keeping the pot closely covered. One hour before dinner add the potatoes and onions, with the salt and pepper, and boil slowly again. Just before dishing stir in quickly the flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Serve hot on a platter. 188 How to CooJc Well. This makes a very large quantity, enough for fifteen persona. Irish stew makes a hearty and excellent dinner, as well as an economical one. Brunswick Stew. 1 gallon water, boiling. 1 tablespoonful salt. pound bacon. 1 onion (sliced). li quarts tomatoes (peeled). 1 pint lima beans. 4 Irish potatoes (sliced). 6 ears sweet corn (cut from the cob). 1 teaspoonful black pepper. 1 teaspoonful cayenne pepper. 2 or 3 squirrels or chickens. Four hours before dinner joint the squirrels and put them to soak in cold salted water, to draw out the blood. Put on the water, salt, bacon and onion. Let these boil fifteen minutes, while you prepare the vegetables. Then add them with the pepper. As soon as these begin to boil, put in the squirrels or chickens, and let all stew to- gether slowly (stirring often) till the meat will drop from the bones. Then serve in a soup tureen, to be eaten from soup-plates. Some add a little butter rolled in flour, just before dish- ing ; others thicken it with bread-crumbs. MEAT PIES, Meat Pie. Any kind of meat will do, either that which has been already cooked, or raw meat, the cheaper cuts of veal or beef being preferred. Cut them into slices of convenient size for helping, and if raw parboil them. Put them into a deep pudding dish, with water enough to nearly half cover them, and gravy, if you have it. Dredge in a little flour and lay on a few bits of butter. Add sliced potato if you like, or hard-boiled eggs sliced. Make either a "Crust for Meat Pies" or a "Potato Dinner. 189 Crust." Roll it out about one inch thick and lay it on top of the pie. Make a deep slit in the middle to allow the steam to escape. Bake in a rather hot oven for about three quarters of an hour. A few raw tomatoes are an improvement. Beefsteak Pie. This is a good way to use a tougli steak. Cut the meat in large squares, crack the bone, and parboil in cold water for about twenty minutes. (If allowed to boil fast the meat will be more tough, rather than less so.) Proceed as with " Meat Pie," using the water in which the beef was boiled. Chicken Pie. Boil two chickens in hot water (barely enough to cover them) forty minutes. Skim occasionally, take them out of the water and joint them as for " Fricasseed Chicken." Put them in a deep pudding dish. Sprinkle thickly with flour, salt and pepper and lay on bits of butter rolled in flour. Pour in enough of the water in which the chickens were boiled, to cover them. Lay on a " Crust for Meat Pies," rolled an inch thick. Cut a deep slit in the middle. Bake in a moderate oven one hour. Babbit Pie. Cut a pair of rabbits into pieces of a convenient size. Parboil in cold water enough to cover them. Skim well. Then proceed as with " Chicken Pie," adding bits of salt pork. Quail or Pigeon Pie. Make like " Chicken Pie," but boil them, only ten min- utes. Cut each pigeon into four pieces, but use quails "whole. Bake three quarters of an hour in a rather hot oven. If you like, lay a tender beefsteak in the bottom of the dish. 190 How to Cook Well. Mock Squab Pie. Slice a few apples, and lay them in layers with mutton chops in a deep dish. Shred onion and sprinkle a little sugar over each layer of chops. Add half a cupful of water or gravy. Lay a " Crust for Meat Pies " over the top, cut a slit in the middle, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Chicken or Veal Pot Pie. Cut up and garboil a large chicken, or two pounds of veal. Butter very thoroughly a pot and line sides and bottom with paste (see "Crust for Meat Pies"), cutting out pieces on the sides of the pot in such a way as to prevent thick folds. Put in a layer of chicken ; flour, salt and pepper it, and add a little butter. Do this until you have used all the chicken, or the pot is full. Pour in enough liquor in which the chicken was boiled to half fill the pot. Cover with a thick layer of pastry, making a slit in the middle for the escape of the steam. Heat slowly and boil one and a half hours, watching that it does not burn. If more liquor is necessary pour it in through the slit. When done, invert the pot into a large dish, so that the lower crust will be on top. It may be made without the lower crust, which some persons consider unwholesome. Bits of salt pork may be used instead of butter ; they will give an excellent flavor. VEGETABLES. Boiled Potatoes. Choose potatoes of a uniform size and wash them. Peel them as thin as possible, both because it is wasteful to do otherwise, and because the richest part of the potato lies next the skin. Then leave to soak in cold water, for an hour, or longer if the potatoes are very old. Dinner. 191 Boil them in salted cold or hot water, according to the kind of potato. If you find that boiling in cold water prevents their being mealy, try hot. It is impossible to give an unvarying rule for potatoes in this respect. If you use cold water, put them on to cook three quarters of an hour before dinner ; if hot, half an hour will do. (Of course very small potatoes do not take so long.) Boil till tender when pierced by a fork. Drain off all the water at once, as they will become soggy if left soaking when done. Then take the pot to an open window, and with the lid on, shake them up and down once or twice ; after which, remove the lid, expose the potatoes to the cold air for a moment, and set the pot on the back part of the stove, uncovered, for five minutes, to dry out thor- oughly, while you are dishing the rest of the dinner. Serve uncovered, unless by a napkin, which will not pre- vent the escape of steam. Old Potatoes, such as one sometimes has in the months of April or May, can be rendered less watery by a very simple process. When about to dish them, take one at a time in a coarse towel, and squeeze it as hard as possible. Then lay it carefully in the dish. New Potatoes should always be boiled in hot water, and with the skins on. These may be removed at the moment of dishing; sprinkle on salt as you lay them in the dish. Same persons scrape the skins off before boil- ing, but on no account should they be peeled. Flaked Potato. Prepare like " Boiled Potatoes." Just before dishing, break into small pieces with a fork. Heap lightly in a dish, and sprinkle with salt. Mashed Potato. Boil potatoes till well cooked. Drain and dry them. With a potato-masher mash and beat until light, in the 192 How to Cook Well. same pot they were boiled in, keeping it at one side of the stove, so that the potato will not burn, yet will keep hot. The longer you beat them the whiter and creamier the potato will be, so it is well to allow ten minutes for this when you put the potatoes on to boil. Scatter in salt, and add a little milk (previously heated so as not to cool the potato), with a piece of butter melted in it. Work all together well. Then dish, and smooth the top nicely with a warm knife. Mashed Potato is the basis of so many dishes and is so popular that it should be prepared with especial care. Browned Potatoes. (To serve with Roast Beef.) Wash and peel large potatoes. Dredge with flour. Have a piece of beef roasting. One hour before dinner skim the fat from the gravy, and lay in the potatoes around the meat. Baste frequently with the juice of the meat after they brown. When half-done turn them; dredge, and when brown, baste again. Sprinkle with salt before serving, laid around the platter in which the beef is served. Potatoes in Other Ways. (See Index.) Sweet Potatoes. See Sweet Potatoes Baked. If any one chooses to boil sweet potatoes, she must experiment for herself, as I never yet tasted a boiled sweet potato that was a success. They should always be baked to keep their flavor. Turnips. Old Turnips. Wash, peel, and lay in cold water for an hour. Then put into cold salted water over the fire Dinner. 193 two and a half hours before dinner. When tender, drain well, and mash with a potato-masher, adding a little but- ter. Smooth the top when dished, and put dots of pepper over the surface. Old turnips have so rank a taste that it is a vast im- provement to this dish to mix with it half as much mashed potato. What is left over, fry, like " Potato Balls." Young Turnips. Scrape and lay in cold water half an hour. Then boil three quarters of an hour in salted boiling water. When tender, drain off the water, and pour on enough milk to cover them. When it boils up add a little flour, rubbed smooth in cold milk, and a large lump of butter. Turnips will not give out a disagreeable odor while cooking if boiled slowly and a lump of charcoal is boiled with them, or a small piece of a ripe red pepper. Boiled Beets. Wash the beets, but do not peel or cut them, for the juice escapes very easily. Boil in cold salted water, two or three hours, in winter, one hour in summer. When tender, take them out of the water on a fork, and peel. Slice while hot, into a dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put dots of butter among the slices. Serve covered. Those left from dinner may be heated over by steaming them ; or they may be pickled, by pouring over them cold vinegar, in which they should stand several hours before being served. Boiled Parsnips. Wash and boil in cold salted water from three quarters to one hour. When tender, skin them, split in half, and lay them in a dish, buttering plentifully. Serve covered. On no account leave them in the water after they are done; it makes them soggy and destroys their flavor. Use what are left over to fry for another meal. 194 How to Cook Well. Buttered Parsnips. Boil as above ; skin and cut into round, thick slices. Have ready in a sauce-pan, one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour, previously rubbed together, and two tablespoonfuls of milk. When it boils up, put in the parsnips, and shake over the fire till smoking hot. Serve hot in a covered dish. Fried Parsnips. Boil parsnips as above. When perfectly cold, cut them lengthwise into thick slices, and dredge them with flour. Have ready a hot frying-pan. Put in enough beef drip- ping, ham fat, or lard to cover the bottom, and when boiling hot, lay in the parsnips. Brown them well on both sides. It will take only a few minutes. Parsnip Cakes (fried). Boil parsnips as above. Mash while hot with a potato- masher, removing all the tough fibre. Add one third as much mashed potato, with a little butter and milk or cream; season with salt and pepper. With floured hands make into balls and flatten them. Fry like "Potato Balls." A beaten egg mixed in is an improve- ment. Parsnips with Boast Beef. Wash and scrape, and proceed as with " Browned Pota- toes." Baked Onions. Bermuda onions are best, because of their mild flavor. Choose all of one size. Leave the skins on. Bake in the oven till tender. Remove the skins, and dress with but- ter, pepper, and salt. Boiled Onions. Choose those of uniform size. Boil twenty minutes, in hot salted water. Drain the water off entirely ; add Dinner. 195 equal parts of fresh, boiling water and milk, and boil twenty minutes more. When tender, lay them in a dish, and season, with butter, salt and pepper. Thicken a little of the milk, if you choose, with flour rubbed in cold water, and boil till of the consistency of custard. Pour over and serve covered. Never cook onions in an iron pot. Fried Onions. Peel, slice, and fry in hot lard or butter, about forty minutes, till delicately brown. Season with pepper and salt and serve hot, covered. Winter Squash. Cut it up, throw away the inside, and pare the pieces. The best way to cook it is in a steamer, or colander, set over a kettle of boiling water, so as not to touch the water. Cover tight, and steam one hour. Or, boil slowly in only just enough water to keep it from burning. When ten- der, which should be in three quarters of an hour, drain off all the water; press it, and mash with a potato- masher, stirring in a large lump of butter, and a sprink- ling of salt. When dished, smooth the top, and dot it with pepper. Serve uncovered. Use what remains for " Squash Pie, or Pudding," or for " Squash Fritters." Or, it may be made into cakes, and fried like " Potato Balls." Summer Squash (boiled). Wash and pare them thinly, unless the rind is extremely tender. Put them whole into boiling water ; as little as possible. Boil three quarters of an hour, till tender. Drain thoroughly, and press the water out with a plate. Stir in a large lump of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Mash and mix well with a wooden spoon. Serve hot, uncovered. If the squash is an old one, with large seeds, run it through a colander, to remove these, before seasoning. 196 How to Cook Well Fried Squash. Wash and cut in round slices a quarter of an inch thick, crook-necked, summer squashes. Pare and remove the seeds if large. Sprinkle with salt, and let them stand a few moments. Then dip into beaten egg ; afterwards into fine bread-crumbs, and lay in a hot frying-pan, con- taining a lump of butter, boiling hot. There should be only enough to cover the bottom of the pan, as squashes absorb grease. Brown the squash on both sides until tender enough to be pierced by a straw. Serve hot. You can dredge them with flour, instead of using egg and bread-crumbs. Boiled Cabbage. Remove the outer leaves ; quarter and examine care- fully, as cabbage is liable to be infested by insects. Soak for one hour in cold water. Put into boiling water, salted, an hour before dinner; boil fifteen minutes, skimming well. Drain off the water, and fill up with that which is fresh and boiling. When tender, drain well, press with a plate, chop and stir in a lump of butter, pepper and salt. If very large, boil one and one half hours. It is a great improvement to omit salt in the water, and boil with it a large piece of salt pork or bacon. This should be removed before chopping the cabbage. A cup of cream poured over it, after being dished, is an improve- ment. What is left may be used for "Escaloped Cab- bage." The odor from boiling cabbage can be avoided if it is boiled slowly and a lump of charcoal is put in the water, or a tiny bit of a ripe red pepper, or a pinch of ammonia. North Carolina Boiled Cabbage. Pick over, wash and quarter a large cabbage. Let it stand in cold water for an hour. Have ready boiling a ham, or a smoked side ; skim well. An hour before din- Dinner. 197 ner, put into the boiling liquor, with the ham, the cabbage. Boil fast ; when tender, chop fine. Skim off the grease, and pour some of the liquor over the cabbage. It may be served on the platter containing the ham. Those who do not like ham, can substitute corned beef. Boiled Cauliflower. Remove the outside leaves and soak for an hour in cold salted water. If very large, cut in half ; otherwise cook it whole. Put into salted boiling water, and boil slowly, so that it will not break, about half an hour. When half done, pour off the water, and cover with equal parts of fresh boiling water and milk, or milk alone. When ten- der, lay the cauliflower in a hot dish and sprinkle with salt. Serve at once, covered, as it darkens with standing. If you like, serve " Drawn Butter " with it. Use what is left, also the milk, for soup, to which it is a pleasant addition. Stewed Cauliflower. Cut into small clusters, throwing away the outer leaves and stem. Lay for one hour into cold salted water. Then put into boiling water. Boil slowly twenty min- utes. Take out the cauliflowers and lay them in a dish. Then pour off all but about half a cupful of the water. While this is boiling stir in half a cupful of milk, in which you have rubbed one tablespoonful of flour. When this boils up add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and sprinkle with salt. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower, and serve at once, covered. Stewed Carrots. Wash, scrape, and lay in cold water for one hour. Then cut around in thick slices. Put into boiling water, salted, and boil slowly from one to one and one half hours. When half done, pour off the water and add fresh boiling water, with salt. When tender, drain off the water and 198 How to Cook Well. cover them with milk. When this boils up, dish the car- rots, and thicken the milk by adding to it, while boiling, one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Stir in a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a pinch of salt. Pour the hot sauce over the carrots and serve covered. After draining off the first water they may be stewed in gravy not too thick. In this case no sauce is needed. No. 2. Wash, scrape, and cut into round, thick slices. Melt a lump of butter in a sauce-pan. Put in the carrots, with a few slices of onion, and a little pepper and salt. Brown nicely, then pour in some " Stock," and simmer till the carrots are tender, full half an hour. Dish, nnd thicken the stock by stirring in, while boiling, one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Pour over the carrots, cover and serve hot. Stewed Salsify or Oyster Plant. Wash, but do not scrape it, as that will cause it to turn black and to lose much of its flavor. Put it into boiling water salted. Boil slowly till tender, about three quarters of an hour. Then take out the salsify and rub off the skin ; cut into pieces an inch long, and return to the sauce- pan, having previously poured off all the water but half a cupful, and added half a cupful of milk. When this boils thicken with one teaspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Add salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of butter. Boil up once and serve in a covered dish. If you are making soup, the water which was poured off can be added to that, and it will impart a pleasant flavor of oysters. Do not cook salsify in an iron pot, as it .blackens it. Salsify Fritters, or Mock Oysters, Boil whole as above, till tender. Take it out and skin it. When perfectly cold, mash with a potato masher, Dinner. 199 taking care to pick out all the fibres. Moisten with a lit- tle milk and melted butter. Add a pinch of salt and work to a smooth paste. Beat some eggs, allowing one and one half to each cupful of salsify. Work them in, and form the whole into balls, with floured hands. Flatten them, dredge with flour, and brown on both sides in a frying-pan containing boiling beef-dripping or lard enough to keep them from sticking. Fried Salsify. Wash and parboil it. Cut it into lengthwise slices. " Egg-and-Crumb " them, and fry brown on both sides. Stuffed Peppers. 8 green peppers. ' 2 ounces butter. 2 table spoonfuls olive oil. 2 chopped onions. 1 pint mushrooms. ' A little salt and white pepper. A dash of red pepper. A dash of nutmeg. "Tomato Sauce." 3 handf uls fresh bread-crumbs. 4 eggs (yolks only). 1 tablespoonful chopped pars- ley. Cut off one end of the peppers (with stem). Neatly remove seed and inside, which are not used. Place in salt water and soak all night. Next day prepare stuffing as follows : Put in a sauce^ pan the butter, oil, onions, and mushrooms. Stir and fry about ten minutes to evaporate moisture. Season and add four tablespoonfuls of the tomato sauce. Boil a little, Then add the bread-crumbs, egg-yolks well beaten, and parsley. Mix well, stir, and cook three minutes longer. When cool fill the peppers and replace ends. Put into a pan with a little water and a lump of butter. Bake three quarters of an hour, basting frequently, Place when done on a platter and pour the rest of the tomato sauce around, already made hot. Serve hot. 200 How to Cook Well Stewed Celery. Cut the white part of the celery into pieces one inch long. Drop into boiling water. Boil half an hour. Then pour off the water, and cover with milk. Boil until the celery is tender, perhaps half an hour. Just before serv- ing, add pepper and salt, and several bits of butter rolled in flour. After, boiling a moment, serve in a covered dish. Do not use an iron kettle, for fear of discoloring the celery. The greener portion of the celery can be used in the same way ; but the taste is not so delicate, and it will not make as handsome a dish. Boiled Spinach. As spinach shrinks very much in cooking be sure to buy plenty. A peck is not too much for a family of seven. Wash well, and pick it over carefully, as it is lia- ble to be gritty. Put it into boiling salted water, enough to fill the pot ; for unless a great deal of water is used, the spinach will be bitter. Boil half an hour. When tender, drain thoroughly, pressing with a plate. Chop it fine, adding a piece of butter. Dish and smooth the top. Lay on the top, two hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices. Serve vinegar with it. Spinach a la Creme. Boil as above, and rub through a colander, after press- ing the water off. Season with pepper and salt. Put into a sauce-pan with a small piece of butter, and a little cream. Boil up well, stirring all the time, and dish. Gar- nish with sliced hard-boiled eggs, if you like. Greens (various kinds). The roots and tops of young beets, young cabbages, turnips, or mustard-tops, dandelions and lettuce make good greens. Prepare and boil like "Boiled Spinach," Dinner. 201 taking care to use plenty of water, and serve in the same way. Many persons like to boil a piece of bacon or salt pork with greens ; in case you do this, omit the salt in the water. Cabbages and dandelions require to be boiled one hour, beet-tops will be done in three quarters of an hour, and turnip-tops in twenty minutes. Serve with vinegar. Greens will not give out a disagreeable odor while boil- ing if boiled slowly, and a piece of bread pinned in a cloth is boiled with them. Boiled Asparagus. Wash and cut the stalks of equal length, trimming off the woody ends. Tie them in a bunch, with a strip of muslin. Put into plenty of boiling water, salted. Boil very gently one hour, longer if old. Have ready three or four slices of toasted bread ; dip them in the asparagus water ; butter them and lay on a hot platter. When the asparagus is tender, take it out carefully, so as not to break it. Lay it in the middle of the dish, remove the string, and arrange the asparagus over the toast. Cover with thin shavings of butter. Another way is to pour over all a sauce made as fol- lows : Pour off all but about half a cupful of the aspara- gus liquor. Add half a cupful of milk, and thicken it while boiling, with one tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in another half cupful of milk. Add butter size of an egg, and let it boil till smooth and thick as custard. The yolk of an egg added at the last is an improvement. Asparagus liquor should always be saved for soup, if you are making it. Peas. Shell, but do not wash them. Soak for half an hour in just enough water to cover them. Put them on to boil in the same water, without adding any more. Cover and 202 How to Cook Well. boil slowly (counting from the time they begin) from half an hour to one hour, according to their age. When ten- der, and the skins look shrivelled, they are done. Drain off most of the liquor, add pepper and salt, dredge in a little flour and stir in a lump of butter. Serve hot, cov- ered. Some persons prefer them dry; others pour into the boiling liquor, half a cupful of cream, or milk in which one tablespoonful of flour has been rubbed. Let it boil until the sauce thickens. Use what may be left, for "Pea Fritters." Old peas should have a pinch of soda thrown into the water a few minutes before serving them. French, String or Snap Beans. String carefully, breaking off each end. Cut each bean into two or three pieces. Then cook like peas, only at least half an hour longer. Another way is to boil a piece of salt pork with them, omitting butter and salt. The pork should not be served with the beans, but may be used for a second cooking. Use what beans are left for salad ; or warm over with peas left from a former dinner. Together they make a very good dish. Shelled, Lima or Butter Beans. Soak in cold water just enough to cover them for half an hour. Then boil in the same water, without adding more, and keep them covered. Do not salt them until nearly done, as that makes them hard. Some beans require to boil longer than others. The usual time is one hour. When tender, dip them out with a skimmer, and dish with plenty of butter. Boil with them a piece of salt pork, or bacon, if you like, and omit the salt. Serve what are left for "Succotash." They are also good warmed over with tomatoes. Dinner. 203 Dried Beans. Soak one cupful of beans over night in one quart of cold water. Three hours before dinner drain this off, and pour over the beans two quarts of warm water. Boil slowly, stirring occasionally. When half-done, add one tablespoonful of salt. When tender, drain well, and dish with plenty of butter, and a little pepper. Use the water for soup. Winter Succotash. This can be made of dried lima beans, and canned com, which may be left from former dinners. Warm them over together with a little milk and butter, and thicken the milk with a little flour. Boiled Corn. Take off all the green leaves, except one layer, and pull off the dark part of silk ; put into boiling salted water, and boil from twenty minutes to an hour, according to the age. Do not let it continue to boil when it is tender, though it may stand in the hot water without injury till dinner is ready, if the pot is set back. Too long boiling makes it tough. When ready to dish, remove the leaves and serve in a napkin. Corn cooked in this way has a much finer flavor than when boiled without the leaves. What is left may be cut from the cob, and warmed in milk, or used for " Corn Fritters." Stewed Corn. Cut from the cob, and put into boiling water, only just enough to cover it, and stew fifteen minutes. Drain off the water, cover with milk, and stew till ten- der, dredging in a little flour from time to time. Just before serving, add pepper and salt, and a lump of butter. 204 How to Cook Well. Succotash. Cut the corn from the cobs, and measure it. Shell lima or butter beans, and allow of vthem about two thirds as much as you have corn. Put the cobs into hot water and boil them half an hour. Take them out about an hour before dinner and add the beans to the water. Boil slowly, half an hour, then add the corn. Just before dinner, drain off the water, and proceed as with " Stewed Corn." It is not necessary to boil the cobs first ; but this heightens the flavor of the corn. Corn in Other "Ways. (See Index.} Stewed Tomatoes. Pour scalding water over the tomatoes. Let them stand a minute. Then skin them. Quarter them, and extract the cores. Put them in a sauce-pan (not a tin one). Cover and stew slowly without the addition of water. Mash them once in a while, with a wooden spoon. At the end of three quarters of an hour, add salt and pep- per, a few fine bread-crumbs, and a large lump of butter. Stir until smooth and serve covered. Never throw away even a spoonful of tomato. Tomato left over can be used in as great a variety of ways as potato. (See " Ways to Use Tomato.") A Summer Medley. Stew together, tomatoes and lima beans. When they have cooked three quarters of an hour, add corn cut from the cob. In twenty minutes, add salt and pepper and a lump of butter. What is left may be baked for breakfast, with the addi- tion of a pint of bread-crumbs, seasoned and moistened, using a buttered pudding-dish. Meat may also be added, chopped fine, if you like. Dinner. 205 This dish may be made of the remains of a former din- ner, and is very good with either beans or corn, as well as with the two. Tomatoes in Other Ways. (See Index.) Stewed Cucumbers. Prepare as for " Raw Cucumbers," but slice thick. Take out the seeds ; put into enough boiling water to cover them, and stew fifteen minutes. Then drain off the water. Add enough fresh boiling water to keep them from burn- ing. When this boils, add a cupful of milk, in which one teaspoonful of flour has been dissolved. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and add a lump of butter. Stir as it boils up. If not thick enough, dredge in more flour. Serve in a covered dish. It is said that stewed cucumbers will hurt no one. Cucumbers in Other Ways. (See Index.) Fried Egg Plant. Slice one half inch thick and pare. Lay in cold salted water for an hour. Wipe dry. Dip each slice into beaten egg ; then in corn meal, or fine bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in enough lard, or beef-drippings, to brown them. Cook until tender enough to be pierced by a straw. What is left over may be used for " Mousaka." Stuffed Egg Plant. (See Page 71.) Okra. Cut the pods into round, thick slices. Put them into boiling salted water, only enough to cover them. Simmer 206 How to Cook Well. slowly three quarters of an hour. When tender add salt, pepper, and a lump of butter. Serve in a covered dish. A few green grapes stewed with the okra gives it an agreeable flavor. What is left may be used for soup. Okra and Tomatoes. Cook like the above, but mix with the okra half as much tomato, and use no water, as the tomatoes are sufficiently juicy. For this, the okra should be cut into thin slices. Use what is left for soup, or to bake. Baked Okra and Tomatoes. Stew fifteen minutes, prepared as above. When sea- soned, put into a buttered pudding-dish, lined with bread, or cracker-crumbs. Put crumbs on top and bake half an hour in a hot oven. Boiled Eice. Wash a cupful of rice. Rub it hard between the hands and use several waters, till there is no milkiness. Put the rice into a double boiler, pour over it one quart of boiling water and add two teaspoonfuls of salt. Allow one hour for it to boil. In ten minutes stir gently with a fork. After that do not touch it. Fifteen minutes before din- ner, drain off all the water. Uncover and let it dry out. Put on the cover, once in a while, and shake it violently up and down. Heap lightly in a dish, and serve uncov- ered. Rice cooked in this way will make a beautiful looking dish, every kernel standing separate and dry. It may be cooked in an ordinary sauce-pan, but is more liable to burn. In this case boil hard and fast for twenty minutes, shaking the sauce-pan frequently, not sideways, but up and down. Leave it uncovered to dry after draining, only about five minutes. To use what is left, see " Ways to use Cold Rice." Dinner. 207 Rice in Other Ways. (See Index.) / ; Boiled Macaroni. To a quarter of a pound of macaroni allow one dessert- spoonful of salt. Put it in a deep sauce-pan, having broken it into convenient lengths. Pour over it as much boiling water as the sauce-pan will hold. Macaroni needs a great quantity, as it soaks up much water, and is not good unless kept well under water during the whole pro- cess of boiling. Boil slowly (so as not to break it) for two hours, stirring occasionally from the bottom with a fork. When done, pour it into a colander, and drain off all the water. Then dish, with generous lumps of butter laid among the pieces. Serve covered. Another way is to pour off the water when done, and cover it with milk. When this boils, dredge in a little flour and add a piece of butter. Some kinds of macaroni will boil in a shorter time ; but it should be very thoroughly cooked. i Milan Macaroni. li quarts of beef or mutton 1 1 pound macaroni, broth. I & tablespoonf ul salt. Put the broth on the fire fully two hours before dinner. When it boils, put in the macaroni and salt. Boil very slowly until the macaroni is tender. Drain through a colander, saving the broth for soup. Dish with a little butter. Macaroni in Other Ways. (See Index.) 208 How to Cook Well. Ways to use Cold Potatoes. Boiled Potatoes. Fried Potatoes. In Hash. In Stew. Potatoes with Giblets. Maitre d'Hotel Potato. Kentucky or Escalopecl Potato. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Broiled Potatoes. Potatoes and Cream. Stewed Potatoes, with Gravy. Potato Rechauffee. Potato Salad. Potato au Gratin Mashed Potato. Potato Balls. Potato Croquettes. In Fish Balls. St. Patrick's Pie. Potato Puff. Breakfast Turnovers. Stuffing for Fish or Poultry. To thicken Soup. Casserole of Fish. Escaloped Fish. In Codfish Puff. With Mashed Turnips. In Parsnip Cakes. Salmon a P Indienne. Ways to use Cold Bice. In Soup. Rice and Tomatoes. Stuffed Tomatoes. Dolmathes. Casserole Rice and Meat. Chicken baked in Rice. Baked Rice. An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. Pilau. Rice and Meat Croquettes. Ways to use. Cooked Tomato. In Soup. Tomato Sauce. In Hash. In Stews. Rice Croquettes. Rice Balls. Rice Waffles. Rice Corn Bread. Rice Muffins. Rice Griddle Cakes. Rice Pudding. Snow Balls. Hidden Apples. Anglo-Francais Pie. An Appetizing Breakfast Dish. Rice and Tomatoes. A Summer Medley. Okra and Tomatoes. DESSERTS. PIES; REMARKS. Pies should be light, flaky and tender, and the bottom crust, in particular, should be well-baked. A pie made thus is a very different thing from the leathery sodden things that go by the name in so many families. Use only good shortening for pies, and have it as cold and firm as possible. Have the water also cold, and stand in a cold place while mixing and rolling out the pastry. As to flour, some kinds will never make good pastry, though the very best for bread. It is well to buy what is known as pastry flour. It is not only better for pies, but cheaper than other kinds. Directions for mixing pie crust are given in each receipt. Use only enough water to make it adhere, otherwise it will be tough. Use a knife to mix with, not the fingers. In rolling out, handle as little as possible (this is one secret of success) and be quick in your motions. Roll always from the centre toward the edges, and roll as little as possible only just enough to make it smooth and evenly thin, after the shortening is all in. Experi- enced pastry-makers pass the rolling-pin only once over the paste, pressing carefully and evenly as they go. It makes pastry more crisp and flaky to be left for awhile in a very cold place when ready to roll out for the pie-plates, and have it cold, when put in the oven. Tin pie-plates are better than earthen ones. The pies 210 How to CooJc Well bake better on the bottom. When done, they can be easily removed from the tin to a clean china plate before serving. Pie-plates need not be greased. Having rolled a part of the paste thin and evenly, and as nearly circular as possible, lay it over the plate, letting it drop gradually from one side, so that no air-bubbles will be left in. Press it down evenly, and if there are air-bubbles, prick with a fork. Take the plate on the palm of the left hand, and with a knife held aslant in the right, trim the edges, but not too close, as the entire edge of the pan must be left covered. (The scraps can be collected and rolled out afterwards for a rim to put around the edge of the upper crust.) Fill with whatever you like, but not until you are ready to bake, for if the filling is at all moist, it will make the crust soggy. Wet the entire edge of the crust. Roll out the top crust, and with a knife cut slits in the centre in a pretty pattern. Lay this over the pie, trim the edges as before, and press it with a fork all around, so as to unite it with the bottom crust. Or, cut a long strip of paste, wet one edge, and roll it over, and lay the roll around the edge of the pie, having pressed the top and bottom crusts together with the finger-tips. While baking, keep the heat as great at the bottom as at the top, but if you have any doubt about the bottom crust being well done, set the tin on top of the stove for a minute. When done the pie will shrink from the edge of the tin, and will not stick to the bottom when taken out. Puff Paste. Wo. 1. Allow one large cupful of flour to each pie. When you have measured out flour for as many pies as you mean to make, weigh it. Then weigh an equal quan- tity of butter. Have it as cold as possible. Salt the flour slightly. Chop into it half the butter. When as fine as Desserts. 211 coarse sand, add ice-cold water, only just enough to hold the dough together. Put it on a bread-board, on which you have sprinkled flour. Roll out thin, handling and rolling as little as possible, and taking care to roll from the centre towards the edges, not back and forth. Lay on thin shavings of butter (using what you have reserved) in close rows all over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle with flour. Roll up, and roll out again. Do this till all the butter is gone. It should be put on thick enough to be used up in three rollings. Roll out very evenly the last time, and put it on the pie. Bake in a quick oven, to make it puff up well. A plainer crust may be used for the bottom of the pie. No. 2. / 1 pound flour. 2.ri u A little salt. i cupful ice-water. | pound butter. Sprinkle the salt through the flour, then chop half the butter into it. Beat the yolk of the egg, and stir it into the water. Pour this into the flour, use a knife, and stir it only just enough to make the flour adhere. Put it on a floured bread-board, roll it out thin, and proceed as with "Puff Paste" No. 1. After baking, wash over the top while hot with the white of the egg, beaten a little, to give it a glaze. This is the best paste to use for Pates. Eich Pie Crust. (For One Pie.) 1 heaping cupful flour. A small pinch salt. 2 even tablespoonf uls lard. 4 cupful very cold water. 2 even tablespoonf uls butter. Stir the salt into the flour. Put in the lard, and chop till very fine. Mix in the water with a knife. Put the dough on a floured bread-board and roll out, handling as little as possible. 212 How to CooTc Well Always roll from the centre towards the edges. When very thin, stick bits of butter in close rows all over the surface, using a knife ; sprinkle with flour and roll up as you would a sheet of paper. Roll out as before till the butter is all used, which ought to be in three rollings. Lay the paste in a cold place for half an hour to make it flaky and firm ; then roll out for the pie. Plain Pie Crust. f 1 heaping cupful flour. I 2 even tablespoonfuls lard. 1 A pinch salt. I i cupful very cold water. Mix the flour and salt, chop in the lard until fine, stir in the water, and set it in a cold place to become flaky. Then roll out thin. Makes one pie. This makes a very flaky pie crust, though it is not a handsome one. Its advantage over other crusts is, that it is more quickly made. Bridget's Pie Crust, (For Two Pies.) 2 heaping cupf uls flour. i teaspoonf ul salt. | teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. i as much soda as cream of tartar. 1 large tablespoonful lard. A little water or milk. Sift the salt, cream of tartar and soda with the flour. Chop the lard into it. With a knife stir in only just enough water or milk (very cold) to make a stiff dough. Roll out as lightly and quickly as possible, taking care to roll it thin. This is a very wholesome crust, though a plain one. Bread-Dough Pie Crust. For one pie take one heaping cupful of light bread dough, knead it and roll it out a quarter of an inch thick. Desserts. 213 Lay bits of butter all over it, about half an inch apart. Sprinkle slightly with flour, and fold it over and over. Roll out again and distribute the butter and flour as before. Fold and press it down with the rolling-pin. Roll it out extremely thin, remembering that it will rise thicker. Use like any pie crust. For a beginner in pastry-making, T recommend this. It is easier to make than any other kind, as it does not have to be handled so carefully. Be particular to use plenty of butter, roll thin, and you cannot have a more whole- some crust than this. Mrs. Gen. Lee's Boiled Pastry. Take any amount of flour you wish to use. Add a lit- tle salt. Pour on this, directly from the tea-kettle, water which is actually boiling at the time. Use enough to mix into a moderately stiff dough. Roll out the paste on a floured bread-board, and use for any kind of dumplings. This is very delicate, and will hurt no one, aa no shorten- ing is used for it. Potato Crust (for Dumplings and Meat Pies). 8 large potatoes, boiled and mashed. 1 large table spoonful lard. A little salt. Flour enough to make a soft dough. 1 pint milk or water. Rub the lard through the potatoes while hot ; stir in the milk and salt ; then the flour. Mix very thoroughly. Work well on a floured bread-board, and roll out, thin, for dumplings; one inch thick for meat pies. For the latter, it is an improvement to add from one to three eggs, beaten well. Crust for Meat Pies. Make like " Baking Powder Biscuit," using rather wore lard. Roll it about three quarters of an inch thick, and lay 214 How to Cook Well over the top of the pie. An under crust is not often used for meat pies ; it is not considered wholesome. To Glaze Pie Crust. Beat one egg, or the white alone, and rub it over the top of the pie. To Prevent a Soggy Under Crust. If the bottom crust of fruit pies, or any other juicy kind, is rubbed over with a beaten egg, it will be a sure preventive of its being soggy. A Cream to Serve with Fruit Pies. 1 table spoonful corn starch or arrowroot. {1 pint milk. A pinch salt. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Scald the milk, with the salt and sugar ; reserving a lit- tle of the milk in which to rub the cornstarch. Add this to the milk when boiling and stir till thick as cream. Serve in a pitcher when cold, as a substitute for cream for those who like this accompaniment. Mince Pies, For mince-meat, see the following receipts. They are baked with both an under and an upper crust. A pretty way to make one for Christmas is with letters for the word " Christmas " cut out of the paste and laid on the top crust before the pie goes in the oven. As mince pies are usually heated before serving and as that always freshens pie-crust, it is a good plan for busy housekeepers to bake several at a time. It is convenient to have them in the house in case of unexpected com- pany, besides being less trouble than to bake them con- stantly. Desserts. 215 Mince Meat. No. 1. 2 pounds beef (from the round). 1 pound suet (chopped). 4 pounds apples (chopped). 2 pounds raisins (chopped). 1 pound raisins, stoned, but whole. 1 pound currants, well washed. pound citron, sliced fine. 2 tablespoon fills cinnamon. tablespoonf ul cloves. table spoonful salt. nutmeg. pint brandy. pint wine. Boil the beef, and chop it fine. Add the other things, taking pains to mix all together very thoroughly. Put into a stone jar, and tie a cloth over the top. When you want to make pies, dip out enough, sweeten it to taste, and cover what is left in the jar. No. 2. 1 teaspoonf ul allspice. 2 nutmegs, grated. G lemons, juice only. 1 quart brandy. 1 quart wine. 1 pound chopped apples. 1 tablcspoonful salt. 1 tongue, boiled and minced. 2 pounds suet, chopped. 2 pounds raisins. 4 pounds currants. 1 pound citron, chopped. 2 pounds sugar. 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. Mix well together a week before using. Whenever you make pies, add fresh chopped apples. Instead of brandy, good cider boiled down to half its quantity will do, and for wine, currant wine may be used. If you choose, cut from the tongue a few thin slices for the table before mincing it, and substitute, for the meat thus removed, a little ordinary beef, boiled. No. 3. 4 pounds beef from the round. Boil slowly till tender. Remove all gristle, and when cold chop- very fine. Measure it, and to every pint, put 2 pints raisins. 1 pint currants. 1 pint suet. 1 pint molasses. 1 pint quince jelly or marma- lade. 1 pint any kind fruit syrup. \ pound citron. 2 pounds brown sugar. 2 table spoonfuls cinnamon. 1 grated nutmeg. 1 tablespoonful cloves. 1 tablespoonful allspice. 1 pint wine. 1 pint brandy. 216 How to CooJc Wett. Mix these ingredients well together with the meat, at least a week before using it. When needed take out as much meat as required, and to every pint add nearly two pints of chopped apple. Mince meat made in this way without apple is sure to keep, and adding the apple fresh gives it a very fine flavor. Mock Mince Meat. 12 butter crackers or 5 soda crackers. 1 pint boiling water. 1 cupful butter. 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful molasses. k pound raisins. pound currants. 2 nutmegs, grated. 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful allspice. h tablespoouful cloves. 1 cupful vinegar. Roll the crackers (not very fine). Then mix all the ingredients together, and make into pies at once, as it is not meant to keep. Beef suet, chopped fine, may be used instead of butter. Sweet Potato Pie. 1 pound sweet potatoes. / 2 eggs. \ i cup sugar. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. A little nutmeg. 1 cupful milk or cream. Boil or bake the potatoes. Mash while hot, or grate when cold. Add the eggs beaten with the sugar, and mix in the spice. Thin the mixture with milk or cream, to the consistency of thin custard. Line the pie-plates with pie crust. Pour in the mixture. Bake, without a top crust, in a quick oven. Makes two deep pies. This is nice baked as a pudding in a deep, buttered pudding-dish. Cranberry Pie. Stew cranberries, and sweeten. Put into a bottom crust, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Put bars of paste over the top if you like. Desserts. 217 Confederate Pies. 1 cupful fine, white cornmeal mush, hot. 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful cream, 4 eggs, well beaten. 3 tablespoouf uls butter, melted. 1 glass wine. A little cinnamon. Beat all well together. Have ready a nice crust in two pie plates. Cover each with apple jelly. Pour the mix- ture on this, and bake in a moderate oven. Pumpkin Pie. 2 cupfuls pumpkin, boiled and strained. A pinch of salt. I cupful brown sugar. 1 teaspoonf ul ginger. 3 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 1 cupful milk. Butter size of an egg. 2 eggs well beaten. To the pumpkin add the salt, sugar and spices. Make the milk boiling hot, and stir into it the butter. Pour half the milk on the pumpkin ; mix thoroughly till smooth and add the rest ; then stir in the eggs. Line two pie- plates with crust and half bake them ; pour in the mixture, and bake without a top crust about half an hour in a moderately hot oven. Pumpkin pies should be deep, and the mixture should not be allowed to stand in the crust before baking, or it will be soggy. Keep the heat steady, or they will bake in streaks. Makes two large pies. This makes a good pudding baked in a deep dish, espe- cially if raisins are added. Squash Pie. Make like "Pumpkin Pie." The Hubbard squash is the best for pies. 218 How to Cools Well. Squash Pie without Eggs. l pints stewed and strained squash. li cupfuls brown sugar. 1 teaspoonf ul ginger. 1 teaspoonf ul cinnamon. 1 cupful milk. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch or cracker crumbs. Butter size of a walnut. lemon, juice and grated rind. A pinch of salt. To the squash add the sugar, spice and salt. Boil the milk, reserving enough to wet the cornstarch smooth. Stir this into the milk, when boiling. Boil a minute, till it thickens. Melt the butter in it, and pour it hot on the squash ; add the lemon. Mix thoroughly until no lumps remain. Pour into two bottom crusts and put instantly into a pretty hot oven. Keep the heat steady, and bake till firm. Makes two large deep pies. Dried Peach Pie. Make like " Dried Apple Pie," omitting the spice and ginger. Or make like " Marlborough Pie," using more peach than apple, and omitting the cinnamon, and one Dried Apple Pie. Soak the apples over night. Then stew them in the same water till tender. Let them boil down till most of the water is absorbed. Then sweeten, add a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon ; and sliced lemon or root ginger if you like. Bake between two crusts, about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve cold, with sugar sifted over the top. Apple Pie. Make a nice " Apple Sauce." Bake it in a bottom crust with bars of pastry laid across the top, or with two crusts. Old-fashioned Apple Pie. Line a plate or dish, with thin paste ; slice sour apples very thin and heap high on the paste. Pour in a very Desserts. 219 little water or molasses. Add cinnamon or nutmeg and scatter brown sugar thickly amongst the apple. Put bits of butter plentifully over the top. Then cover with the crust ; cut a slit in the middle and bake in a moderate oven, about one hour. To tell when it is done, run a clean broom straw through the slit. If the apple inside feels tender, the pie is done. Eat cold, with sugar sifted over the top. Apple Custard Pie. 1 cupful strained, stewed apple. 1 cupful sugar. A little grated nutmeg. 1 cupful cream. 1 egg, well-beaten. Mix all together in order. Pour into a bottom crust and bake in a moderate oven half an hour. Makes one pie. Marlborough Pie. Mix like " Marlborough Pudding," saving the whites of the eggs for a " Meringue," and bake in a bottom crust. 3 eggs, yolks only. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Custard Pie. 1 pint milk. Flavoring. Beat the eggs with the sugar. Mix in the cold milk and flavoring. Pour into a bottom crust previously baked a little, taking care to press the dough down firmly and evenly before baking, to prevent its puffing up. Have the oven very hot ; in a few minutes the custard will be- come set or firm. Take it out instantly or it will curdle. If you like, grate nutmeg over the top. For Another Way to make custard for custard pie, see page 274. 220 How to Cook Well. Cornstarch Pie. 1 pint milk, cupful sugar. 2 eggs (yolks only). 4 teaspoonful vanilla. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. Mix like " Cornstarch Custard." Bake like " Custard Pie," but in a moderate oven, as in this the milk is hot. Sweet Potato Custard Pie. ( 2 cupfuls sweet potato, boiled. \ i cupful butter (less will do) 1 quart milk. 2 cupfuls sugar. A pinch of salt. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 1 teaspoonful vanilla, or other extract. 6 eggs, beaten light. Pass the potato through a sieve while hot and add the butter before it cools. Put the milk on to boil, reserving one quarter of a cupful. In this dissolve the salt and cornstarch, and stir into the milk while boiling. Add the eggs, beaten with the sugar, stirring fast till it thickens. Remove from the fire ; add the vanilla, and pour it over the potato. Mix smooth ; pour into a bottom crust ; bake in a mod- erate oven, until firm (about twenty minutes). This makes four pies. Or it may be baked in a deep dish, as a pudding. Potatoes left from dinner will do if great care is taken to work them smooth by pouring the hot custard over them gradually. Cream Pie. No. 1, 1 pint cream. I 3 eggs, whites only. cupful pulverized sugar. 1 A little grated nutmeg. Sweeten the cream, add the eggs, beaten stiff; pour into a bottom crust, and grate the nutmeg over the top. Bake in a hot oven. Or, bake four thin round sheets of A Desserts. 221 pie crust, and when cold fill each two with the mixture, as soon as mixed, and serve at once without baking. Makes two pies. No. 2. f 1 egg. A pinch of salt, ll cupful pulverized sugar. A little flour. A little nutmeg or lemon rind. 1 cupful cream. Beat the egg with the sugar ; add the cream and salt ; pour into a bottom crust ; dredge a little flour over it, and grate on a little nutmeg, or lemon rind. Bake in a hot oven until firm, or prepare like " Cream Pie, No. 1." Makes one small pie. Lemon Pie. 1 table spoonffel starch (not corn starch) . 1 cupful boiling water. Butter size of a nutmeg. 1 lemon. 2 eggs. 1 cupful sugar. Wet the starch smooth with cold water, and stir it into the cup of boiling water on the stove. Boil up a minute, and pour upon the butter and sugar. Stir well. When cool, add the juice and grated rind of the lemon. Beat the eggs, reserving the white of one, and mix them in. Pour into a deep pie-plate lined with crust. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. When cool, spread with a " Meringue," and brown delicately. Makes one large pie. Rich Lemon Pie. 2 eggs (beaten separately). 1 cupful sugar. i cupful water. 1 large or 2 small lemons. 3 powdered soda-crackers. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, and add to them the other things in order, using both juice and grated rind of the lemons. 222 How to Cook Well. Bake in a bottom crust, in a rather hot oven about fif- teen minutes. When cool, spread with a " Meringue " and brown delicately. Makes one pie. If you make cocoanut pie the same day, save the white of one egg for that. The two pies look pretty served side by side, as gold and silver pies. Cocoanut Pie. 1 egg, white only. 1 1 cupful white sugar. 1 cupful grated cocoanut. | A few drops rose essence. Beat the egg stiff ; add the cocoanut, sugar and flavor- ing. Put into a bottom crust and bake in a quick oven. Dessicated cocoanut may be used ; in this case add two teaspoon fuls milk. Makes one pie. Rhubarb Pie. No. 1. Cut rhubarb stalks into half-inch pieces. Pile high on a bottom crust, with thick layers of brown sugar. Add a few seedless raisins, if you like. Cover with crust. Cut a slit in the middle, and bake in a slow oven forty minutes. Test like apple pie. N. B. As rhubarb is very juicy, be careful to pinch the edges of the crust carefully together, or the juice will run over the top. No. 2. Stew rhubarb and drain off the superfluous juice. Sweeten and bake as above, but in a quick oven. No. 3. Prepare like No. 2, but add to each pint 1 pint sugar. A little grated nutmeg. 4 tablespoonfuls fine cracker-crumbs. 2 eggs (yolks only). The eggs must be beaten light before adding them. Desserts. 223 Then work the whole to a smooth pulp. Bake without a top crust, and when done cover with a " Meringue." Cherry Pie. The common, sour red cherry makes the best pies. Line a deep pudding-dish with a plain crust ; fill with cher- ries, carefully looked over, and layers of sugar. Heap the dish, and cover with a rich crust. Bake in a moder- ate oven for one hour. Serve cold, with sifted sugar over the top. Put bits of paste among the berries if you like. If you have not many cherries, bake in a pie-plate. Green Currant Pie. Fill a bottom crust with green currants and sugar in layers. Use at least two thirds as much sugar as fruit. Pile the fruit high, as it will sink when cooked. Cover with a top crust ; cut a slit in the middle and bake in a slow oven, about half an hour. Ripe Currant Pie. 1 cupful ripe red currants. 2 eggs. 1 tablespoonful flour, i cupful water. 1 cupful sugar. Crush the currants. Beat the yolks of the eggs, sugar and flour together. Mix with the currants. Add the water, and beat all together. Put into a bottom crust and bake in a pretty hot oven. When baked, make a " Meringue " of the whites. Spread it over the top, and brown slightly in a hot oven. Makes one pie. A plainer pie may be made like " Green Currant Pie," using less sugar. Green Gooseberry Pie. Top and tail the berries. Stew them in a porcelain sauce- pan, with only enough water to keep them from burning. When they break, remove and sweeten them lavishly. 224 How to Cook Well. When cold put into a bottom crust, cover with a crust, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Berry Pies (any kind). Pick over the berries, and pile them high in a bottom crust, with layers of sugar between, and a sprinkling of flour. Cover with a top crust, taking care to close the edges well, that the juice may not run out. Cut a slit in the middle to let the steam escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Be sure to bake berry-pies well on the bottom. If there is any doubt about this set them on the top of the stove for a moment, after taking them from the oven. Serve cold, with sugar sifted over the top. Kich Blackberry Pie. Line a deep pudding-dish with pastry ; put in a layer of blackberries and sprinkle thickly with sugar; roll some pastry into thin strips, and put them in. Place successive layers of berries, sugar and pastry, until the dish is full. Pour over all a pint of milk ; or less if the dish is small. Cover the top with a sheet of pastry, cut a slit in the mid- dle and bake in a slow oven for three hours if the dish is very large. Anglo-Francais Pie. Line the edge of a deep dish with " Puff Paste." Pick over and stone ripe, juicy cherries (sour cherries are best) ; put a layer in the bottom of the dish, sprinkle with sugar ; then put a layer of cold boiled rice, sprinkle sugar and grated nutmeg on it. Repeat these layers till the dish is filled. Add a little wine if you like, or brandy ; cover with puff paste. Bake in a moderate oven one and a half hours, if the dish is large. Baked Apple Dumplings. Make some plain "Pie Crust," or "Baking Powder Biscuit" dough. Roll it thin as pie crust. Cut into Desserts. 225 squares, and lay in each a tart, juicy apple, pared and cored. Bring the edges of the paste together, trim off what is superfluous, and pineh them together with wet fingers to make them adhere. Put them bottom side up in a drip- ping-pan, and bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. Serve hot with sauce. Cinnamon Fingers. Make " Bread-dough Pie Crust." Roll it thin, and cut into oblongs about five inches by three. Have ready a little cinnamon, and twice as much sugar mixed. Put a teaspoonful in the centre of the paste; sprinkle with a few drops of water, and fold the dough over, pasting the edges together all around with a little water, and making long and narrow shapes. Lay them in rows in a baking-pan, and bake in a very quick oven about eight minutes. Serve hot or cold for a plain dessert. In any case eat fresh. These are easily made while making out bread, and are favorites with children for lunch. I use the name my own children gave them. Turn-Overs. Cut out pie crust, as for " Cinnamon Fingers." Spread the surface with jelly or jam, and proceed as in the last receipt. The various " Fillings for Cake " are nice for these ; so is nice " Cranberry " or " Apple Sauce." A good way to use various things left from tea. Tarts. Make them like " Pates " only smaller, and when cold, fill with "Lemon Filling" or jelly, or any "Lemon Pie" mixture, cooked. 226 How to Cook Well. PUDDINGS. Apple Tapioca Pudding (or other fruit). i cupful tapioca. 1 quart water. saltspoonf ul salt. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. ( 6 or 8 juicy apples. \ Nutmeg and cinnamon. Soak the tapioca in the water for two hours, stirring occasionally. When swelled, add the salt and sugar. Have ready in a buttered pudding-dish, the apples, pared and cored, and sprinkled with grated nutmeg and cinna- mon. Pour the tapioca over. Cover, and bake in a slow oven about one hour, removing the cover, and browning quickly during the last ten minutes. (If the apples are not juicy, add a little water. Some prefer to slice the apples.) Serve warm, not hot, with cream and sugar. Or the tapioca may be put in layers with sliced oranges or lemons (the seeds being carefully removed, or the bit- ter taste will spoil the whole pudding), or peaches, canned or fresh, or berries of any kind. The latter makes a sim- ple but very delicious dessert, especially if raspberries are used, and the top is spread with " Raspberry Trifle." Tapioca Pudding. r 4 heaping tablespoonfuls tapioca, \ 1 cupful cold water. 1 quart milk. 3 or 4 eggs (beaten separately). 1 lemon, or orange. cupful sugar. A little salt. Butter size of an egg (melted). Soak the tapioca two hours. Then add milk and yolks of the eggs (beaten light), grated lemon peel, sugar, salt and butter. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish, and when cool, spread with a " Meringue," adding to it the lemon- juice. Desserts. 227 A "Swell" Pudding. r IJ tablespoonfuls rice (washed). \ 1| tablespoonfuls tapioca. {14 quarts milk (fresh). 1 tablespoonf ul brown sugar, i teaspoonf ul salt. 1 tablespoonf ul butter. A little nutmeg. Three hours before dinner put into a large buttered pudding-dish the rice and the tapioca. Stir the sugar and salt into the milk, and pour over it. Let these soak for two hours in a very warm place. Stir them up from the bottom frequently. When well swelled put bits of butter over the top, with a little grated nutmeg, and set in a slow oven. Bake slowly for one hour, stirring often during the first fifteen minutes. Eat warm, if you choose, though it is even better cold. Rice or tapioca alone may be used, but the quantity of either must be doubled. A Plain Rice Pudding or Poor Man's Pudding. i cupful raw rice (washed). 1 quart milk. A pinch of salt. 'i cupful sugar. Butter size of an egg. Flavoring. k cupful raisins ; or A little orange peel. Add the rice to the milk in which the salt and have been dissolved. Add the butter and flavoring, dredge the raisins with flour, and put them in last ; or, omit the raisins, and substitute fivsh orange peel cut into narrow strips. In this case, no other flavoring is needed. Pour into a well-buttered pudding-dish and bake in a slow oven about two hours, stirring occasionally the first few minutes. Serve cold. 228 How to Cook Well Rice Pudding. f k cupful rice, well washed. I 1 saltspoonf ul salt. I J cupful raisins. L 1 quart milk. 3 eggs, yolks and whites sepa- rate. 1 cupful sugar. 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Boil together in a double boiler for one and one half hours, the rice, salt, raisins and milk ; stir occasionally. Then stir in the yolks beaten light, and the sugar and flav- oring. Stir well and pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a slow oven till firm. When cold spread with a "Meringue." Brown deli- cately in a hot oven. Serve cold. Rice Custard Pudding. 3 cupfuls milk. 1 cupful boiled rice. A pinch of salt. 3 eggs, beaten light. 1 cupful sugar. A little nutmeg grated. i teaspoonf ul vanilla. If the rice is cold, soak it a few minutes in the milk ; add the other ingredients, except nutmeg, pour into a but- tered pudding-dish, grate nutmeg over the top, and bake in a hot oven, about half an hour ; till firm. Serve cold. The success of this depends upon careful baking. Take instantly from the oven when done, or it will curdle. If you like, use only the yolks of the eggs in the pud- ding, and make a " Meringue," with lemon-juice added. Hidden Apples or Rice Rock. Pile on a platter whole apples stewed or baked without cores or skins. Cover them roughly with boiled rice. Make a " Meringue," and spread over the top as irregularly as possible, to imitate a rock. Brown delicately in a very hot oven and serve warm with cream and sugar, or a boiled custard. A good way to use apples and rice " left over." Pre- served fruit may be substituted for apples. Desserts. 229 Bird's Rest Pudding. Pare and core apples, and lay them in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish. Pour over them a batter (see " Batter Pudding ") and bake in a moderate oven three quarters of an hour. Serve at once with sauce. Scotch Pudding. Butter a large deep pudding-dish, and fill with sour ap- ples, choppe'd coarse. Make the following mixture : 2 cupfuls flour. 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 1 teaspoonf ul soda. i teaspoonf ul salt. 1 pint milk. l tablespoonfuls lard. Sift all the dry ingredients together, add the milk, and stir in enough more flour to make a very stiff batter. Melt the lard, and beat it in. With a knife, spread the batter over the apples. Bake in a pretty hot oven, for about one hour. Then turn out on a dinner plate, having the apples uppermost. Serve hot with sugar and butter, or with pudding sauce. Apple Cottage Pudding. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. cupful sugar. 1 egg, beaten light. ( I cupful flour. 1 1 teaspoonf ul baking powder. 4 or 5 tart apples, sliced. i cupful milk. Rub the sugar into the butter, add the other ingredients. Have ready the apples in the bottom of a buttered pud- ding-dish. Pour the mixture over ; bake in a quick oven about half an hour and eat warm with sauce. Peaches or any other fruit can be used. Pan Dowdy (a New England dish). This is best made in the fall, of the early sour apples, the skin of which is thin and contains much richness. Quarter and core the apples. Fill a large buttered pud- ding-dish with them, and cover them with a dough made 230 How to Cook Well like " Baking Powder Biscuit," rolled as thick as for bis- cuit. (Bread-dough will do.) Butter the edge of the dish lavishly, to prevent the dough from sticking to it. Cut a slit in the middle, and set it in a slow oven. Bake for nearly two hours if the dish is very large. Then take it out, lift off the crust, and mix in a little molasses, brown sugar, and cinnamon, and a lump of butter. Stir up thor- oughly from the bottom. Break the crust into large pieces, and put it into the apple. If the apple is very moist, leave the dish uncovered in the oven for awhile, but if sufficiently dry, cover with a plate and leave it to stand several hours before eating it. Serve cold with cream and sugar, for dessert or tea. Maryborough Pudding. 1 pint stewed apple (strained). 2 tablespoonf uls butter, f 3 or 4 eggs. 1 1 pint sugar. 4 soda crackers (pounded). 1 lemon. Add the butter to the apple while hot. "When cool, add the eggs and sugar (beaten together), then the crackers, and the juice and grated rind of the lemon. ( Or omit these and use a little nutmeg and cinna- mon. ) Have ready a buttered pudding-dish, thickly strewn with crumbs, so as to adhere to the bottom and sides. Pour in the mixture, and bake about twenty min- utes in a hot oven. Serve cold, with sugar sprinkled over the top. Apple Meringue. Make like " Marlborough Pudding," reserving the whites of the eggs. With them make a " Meringue " for the top. A simpler way is to cover with a meringue a smooth, thick apple-sauce, nicely seasoned. Desserts. 231 Brown Betty. Cover the bottom and sides of a well-buttered pudding' dish with bread-crumbs. Fill the dish with layers of chopped apple and crumbs, sprinkling each layer with cin- namon, sugar and lumps of butter. Heap the dish high, for the apples will sink. Moisten with a little cold water ; cover with a buttered plate and bake three quarters of an hour, if the dish is large. Take off the cover, and brown quickly. Serve warm with " Hard Sauce," or sugar. Rhubarb or Apple Charlotte. Cut the rhubarb into inch-long pieces ; or, pare, core and slice the apples. Have ready a buttered pudding- dish, lined with thin slices of bread and butter. Put in the fruit sprinkled with sugar, and alternate buttered bread and fruit till the dish is full. Cover with a layer of crumbs, with dots of butter. Cover and bake until done, then uncover and brown quickly. Serve hot with sugar, or " Hard Sauce." Berry or Peach Charlotte. Make like " Rhubarb or Apple Charlotte." Another Way is, to substitute for slices of bread, bread-crumbs moistened with milk. Lay bits of butter over each layer. Serve cold with cream. Stewed berries or fruit may be used, and if prepared over night, and left standing with a weight on top, no cooking is necessary. Cherry Pudding. 1 pint broken bread or crack- ers. I quart boiling milk. Butter size of an egg. 14 cupfuls sugar. 3 eggs, beaten light. A little cinnamon. 1 quart stoned cherries. | teaspoonful salt. Soak the bread or crackers in the boiling milk ; while hot add the butter, salt and sugar. When cool, stir in the 232 How to Cook 'Well. eggs, cinnamon and cherries. Pour into a buttered pud- ding-dish, and bake in a quick oven about three quarters of an hour. Pineapple Pudding. Butter a deep dish, put in alternate layers of broken sponge cake, and thin sliced pineapple, sugared. Have cake on top, moistened slightly with water, and sprinkled with sugar. Cover with a buttered plate, and bake slowly one and three quarters hours, removing the cover, and browning quickly the last ten minutes. Canned pineapple may be used. Lemon Pudding. 3 cupfuls water (boiling). 1 small potato, grated. 5 tablespoonfuls flour. Ik cupfuls sugar. 2 lemons. 2 eggs, beaten separately. \ J cupful cold water. Add the potato to the water, and boil fifteen minutes. Then add the flour rubbed smooth, stir well, and boil five minutes longer. Set it off, and dissolve the sugar in it. When cool add the grated rind and juice of the lemons, ,and the yolks of the eggs beaten light. Pour into a but- tered pudding dish, and bake in a moderate oven till firm. When cold spread with a " Meringue," and brown deli- cately. For six persons. Sweet Potato Pudding. 1 pound butter. 1 pound sugar. 2 pounds sweet potato (cooked). 1 wineglass wine. 1 table spoonful brandy. 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 1 cupful cream. 5 eggs (beaten light). Butter a deep pudding-dish. Rub together the butter and sugar till they look creamy. Add the potatoes, and Desserts. - 233 beat till well mingled. Then mix in the other ingredients. Pour into a buttered dish, and bake in a hot oven till nicely browned. Serve cold, with cream. (See also page 216.) Pumpkin Pudding. See Pumpkin Pie. Serve cold with cream. A Very Delicate Cracker Pudding. Butter a pudding-dish, and half-fill it with crackers (Boston crackers are best) split in two and buttered. Sprinkle them lightly with salt ; wore than cover with milk, and soak three hours. Beat two or three eggs with three tablespoonfuls sugar ; add to them as much milk as you think will fill the dish ; also a little wine or flavoring. Pour over the crackers, and add more milk, if the dish is not full. Bake in a rather hot oven. Serve warm with sauce, or cold with cream. Cracker milk-toast, left from tea, may be used for this. Bread and Butter Pudding. Butter thin slices of bread, and lay in a buttered pud- ding-dish, with currants scattered between each layer. Have ready the following mixture : Ik pints hot milk. I A little grated nutmeg. J cupful sugar. | 2 to 4 eggs beaten light. Pour this over all. Cover and bake sloicly three quar- ters of an hour. Then uncover and brown delicately. Serve cold with cream and sugar, or hot with sauce. This good pudding is still better if the slices of bread and butter are also spread with jelly or jam. You may omit the currants, if you like. 234 How to Cook Well. Plain Bread Pudding. {1 quart milk. A pinch of salt. b cupful sugar. A teaspoonf ul butter. 10 tablespooni'uls dry bread-crumbs. 1 egg beaten light. 1 heaping cupful raisins (may be omitted). Flavoring. Boil the milk, with the salt and sugar ; while hot, add the butter and bread-crumbs. Cover and soak for ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add the egg, beat well ; stir in the raisins (dredged with flour), and flavoring, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish about one hour, in a slow oven. Serve hot with sauce, or cold with cream, or Stale pieces of bread may be used for this ; but do not get in too many. Spiced Bread Pudding. Make like "Plain Bread Pudding," adding two teaspoon- fuls of cinnamon, half a teaspoonf ul of cloves, and a little nutmeg grated. Serve cold with cream, or jelly. Squash left from dinner, or a little apple-sauce, mixed with this, makes a pleasant variety. Francatelli Pudding. 2 cupfuls soft bread-crumbs. 1 quart milk. 1 saltspoonful salt. 4 eggs. 1 lemon. Butter size of an egg. 1 cupful sugar. Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk a few minutes ; add the salt, half the sugar, and the beaten yolks of the eggs. Grate the rind of the lemon, and add that with the butter melted. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish. Bake Desserts. 235 in a hot oven about half an hour. As soon as done remove it, before it becomes watery. Squeeze the lemon, and strain it into the remaining sugar. Stir this into the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Spread over the pudding a thick layer of jelly, or fresh berries ; then pour on the meringue, and brown in a very hot oven. Serve cold with cream. Particularly nice with raspberries. Pudding of Cold Corn Bread. Cold corn bread, left from breakfast, may be used as follows : 1 quart milk. A pinch salt. 8 tablespoonf uls corn bread. 5 teaspoon ful ginger. 1 egg, beaten light. i cupful raisins or currants. 6 tablespoonf uls molasses. Boil the milk a few minutes with the salt and corn- bread crumbled fine. Then remove. Add the molasses and ginger, and when cool, the egg and raisins (dredged with flour). Bake in a slow oven. Serve hot, with sauce (lemon or some tart kind is best), or butter. Indian Pudding. 1 quart milk. 4 table spoonfuls corn-meal. 1 cupful molasses. A little salt. Boil one pint of the milk. Sift the meal into it gradu- ally and boil a few minutes. Take it off the fire, and add the molasses and salt. Stir well. Add the rest of the milk, and do not stir the mixture after that is put in. Bake 4n a buttered pudding-dish two and one half hours in a slow oven. Serve hot, with or without sauce. 236 How to Cook Well PUDDINGS WITH FLOUR. Cream Batter Pudding. f 1 cupful sour cream. 1 1 cupful flour. 1 cupful sweet milk. | teaspoonful soda dissolved. 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. A pinch of salt. Mix in order, beating the eggs light ; bake in a quick oven, for twenty minutes, without opening the oven door. Serve as soon as done, with sauce. Batter or Love Pudding. 1 pint milk. I 1 saltspoonful salt. 1 cupful flour. I 2 eggs, beaten light. Beat all well together. Pour into a hot buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Serve with sauce as soon as done, or it will fall. For four persons. Cream Puffs. c pint boiling water. I ^ pound flour. \ % pound butter. I 4 eggs, beaten separately. Boil the butter and water together a few minutes. Then pour it boiling hot upon the flour. Stir fast until smooth. When cool add the eggs. Drop with a spoon, several inches apart, upon buttered papers. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, without opening the oven door. Do not jar the pan. When cold split and fill with custard. (See Cream Pie, below.) Dessert Puffs or Vanities. 1 quart milk. I A little salt. 1| quarts flour. I 4 eggs. Mix the flour with the milk till no lumps are left. Add salt. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately Desserts. 237 and add them in turn. Beat the batter very light, using a Dover egg-beater if you have one. Pour into hot gem-pans, fill half-full, and bake in a very hot oven about fifteen minutes. Eat as soon as done, with hot sauce. These are favorites with gentlemen. Makes two dozen Puffs. German Puffs. 2 eggs. 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful milk. 3 cupf uls flour. 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. of a nutmeg (grated). Beat eggs and sugar together. Add the milk, then the flour, with the baking-powder rubbed through the last cupful, before mixing with the rest. Put in the nutmeg, and beat hard. Butter deep earthen cups or round gem-pans. Fill half full, and bake in a rather quick oven, about twenty- five minutes. Eat very hot, with liquid sauce. N. B. Sour milk may be substituted for sweet, in which case omit the baking-powder and use one teaspoon- ful of soda. Makes one dozen. Bice Puffs, i cupful cold boiled rice. 1 cupful milk. i pint flour. i teaspoonful salt. i tablespoonful butter (melted). 1 egg, beaten light. Mix and beat hard. Fill hot gem-pans full, and bake in a hot oven about half an hour. Serve hot with liquid sauce. Makes one dozen. 238 How to Cook Well Cream Pie. Bake either "Quick" or "Cheap Sponge Cake," or " Feather Cake " in jelly cake tins. When cold, spread thickly with the following cream : 1 quart milk. {2 to 4 eggs. 2 cupfuls sugar (less will do). 1 cupful flour, or cornstarch. Flavoring. Scald the milk ; beat the eggs, sugar and flour together and stir into the milk while boiling, until it thickens so as not to run. When cool, flavor. Enough cream for four pies. Washington Pie. Mix "Washington Cake," or "Jelly Cake Without Eggs," and bake in pie-plates, in a rather hot oven, about fifteen minutes. When done, lay one loaf bottom side up on a warm plate ; spread it with jam, jelly, or any " Fill- ing " that you choose, and lay the other loaf on top, bot- tom side down. When cold, sift powdered sugar over the top. Serve fresh for dessert. This is the regulation Sunday dessert in most New Eng- land families. Caramel Loaf. 3 eggs, beaten separately. 1 cupful sugar, li cupfuls flour. f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. \ i teaspoonf ul soda. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar. To the beaten whites, add one cup of the flour, a little at a time, beating well. Add this to the yolks and beat in the rest Desserts. 239 of the flour, lightly. Dissolve the cream of tartar and soda in a little hot water and stir in. Bake in a rather quick oven in one round loaf. When perfectly cold, split the cake, so as to make three layers, and spread thickly with the following mixture, also cold : f 1 pint milk. \ 1 table spoonful sugar, f li tahlespoonfuls cornstarch. I 4 cupful cold milk. Flavoring. Scald the milk with the sugar ; rub the cornstarch in the cold milk, and stir it into that which is boiling. Let it boil till thick enough not to run. When cool, flavor. After spreading upon the cake pile up the layers, and frost the top with the following mixture, boiled, until it will harden when thrown into cold water : i cupful grated chocolate. 1 1 tablespoonf ul cold water. 1 cupful brown sugar. Cottage Pudding. j 1 cupful sugar. \ 2 tablespoonf uls melted butter. 1 egg, beaten light. )1 cupful milk. h teaspoonf ul salt. 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved, f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 1 2 cupf uls flour. Mix in order, and bake in a moderate oven about half an hour. Serve hot with sauce. Makes one loaf. Sour milk may be used by omitting the cream of tartar. Currants may be added. It is still a good pudding if only half a cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of but- ter are used. 240 How to CooTc Well. Cottage Pudding Richer, or Gold Pudding. 1 cupful sugar. . cupful butter. 3 eggs, yolks only. 1 cupful milk. i teaspoonf ul soda. 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tar- tar. 2 cupf uls flour. Flavoring. Cream the butter and sugar ; mix in the other ingredi- ents ; beat well and bake in a moderate oven about half an hour. Serve hot with sauce. For a family of seven. (This is convenient for a small family, as what is left makes a nice cake, which if frosted will not be recognized as the remains of pudding.) Prince of Wales Pudding, f 3 tablespoonf uls butter. 1 4 tablespoonf uls sugar. 4 eggs. {6 table spoonfuls flour. 1 teaspoonful soda, dry. 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. Cream the butter and sugar. Beat the yolks and whites separately, and add them ; then the flour with the soda and cream of tartar sifted in it ; put into a buttered pndding-dish, and bake about half an hour in a quick oven. Serve with sauce. Gingerbread Pudding. cupful bu cupful boiling water. f 2 cupf uls molasses. f h cupful butter. 1 1 teaspoonf uls soda. i 1 1 tablespoonf ul ginger. 2 cupfuls flour. In the molasses dissolve the soda ; add the other ingre- dients in order. Beat hard and bake in a moderate oven. Serve hot with "Sour Cream Sauce," or "Lemon Sauce." Desserts. 241 Honeycomb Pudding. 1 cupful molasses. cupful brown sugar. f Butter size of a walnut, j -i cupful milk. 3 eggs, beaten separately. k cupful flour. A little mace and cloves. A pinch of salt. 1 1 teaspoonf ul baking-powder. Mix well the molasses and sugar. Melt the butter and mix that and the baking-powder with the milk. Then pour it into the molasses. Add the yolks of the eggs, flour, spice and salt. Lastly stir in the whites. Beat well. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve hot with sauce. Virginia Pudding. c 1 cupful sugar. \ I cupful butter. 4 eggs, beaten light. 1 cupful molasses. ( 2 cupf uls flour. \ 2 teaspoonf uls baking-powder. Mix in order, and bake in a moderate oven about one hour. Serve hot with " Hard Sauce." Baked Graham Pudding. ' 1 cupful wheat flour. 1 cupful Graham flour, i teaspoonf ul salt, i cupful raisins (seeded). 1 cupful molasses. 2 eggs (beaten light). / li cupful sour milk. 1 1 teaspoonf ul soda (dissolved). Butter size of an egg (melted). 1 lemon, juice and rind. Mix in this order, adding a little ginger if you like. Beat hard. Pour into a scalloped cake-pan, and bake half an hour in a moderate oven. Turn out on a large plate, and eat hot with Lemon or Vinegar Sauce. 242 How to Cook Well. *.. BOILED PUDDINGS. To Boil Puddings. When you are going to prepare a pudding, have a ket- tle full of boiling water ready to put it in at once ; also a tea-kettle of boiling water to replenish with. Wring the pudding-cloth out of water as hot as you can bear it ; flour it well ; pour the pudding into it, and tie tightly with a piece of twine, leaving room for the pudding to swell if it is one which will rise. Open the ends of the bag, and flour all the opening, so that the bag will be sealed, and the water will not penetrate the pudding. Have a plate in the bottom of the kettle, so that the pudding will not come too close to the fire. During the first half-hour turn the pudding every five minutes to pre- vent the fruit from settling in one place. The water must not stop boiling for one instant. Replenish the fire, if it should be necessary, with a few pieces of coal at a time, so as not to cool it for a moment. The success of the pudding depends greatly upon contin- uous boiling. N. B. Before boiling a pudding try to secure a fire that will last several hours. If a pudding-boiler or mould is used, butter both it and the cover well, and have the water in the kettle come only about two thirds to the top. The water should not boil hard, and for all boiled puddings keep the pot covered close, to keep in the steam. You can boil a pudding in either a cloth, a mould, or a bowl, whichever is preferred. When the pudding is done, take it from the pot and plunge instantly into cold water, then turn it out upon the dish, which should be made hot. Be particular to warm the knife before cutting the pud- ding. Desserts. 243 To Warm a Boiled Pudding. Plunge it into cold water for a moment. Then set in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. Or put it in a col- ander without wetting, cover tight, and set it over the steam of the tea-kettle for half an hour. Hasting's or Suet Pudding. 1 cupful suet, chopped fine. 1 cupful raisins, stoned. 3 cupfuls bread-crumbs. 1 cupful flour. 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- tar. teaspoonf ul mace. 4 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. 3 teaspoonfuls powdered cloves. i teaspoonf ul salt. 1 cupful molasses. cupful milk. teaspoonful soda, dissolved. Mix in order. Put into a buttered pudding-boiler, leav- ing room to swell. Cover tight, and boil three hours with- out stopping. If you make half the quantity boil two hours only. Serve hot with " Wine Sauce." This pudding is preferred by many to Plum Pudding. It keeps well for a long time, and it is a good way to use up bread-crumbs. It can be made without crumbs by us- ing four cupfuls flour. Plum Pudding. 1 pound bread-crumbs (grated}. 1 pound minced suet. 1 pound brown sugar. 1 pound currants (washed and dried). 2 pounds raisins, stoned. 1 nutmeg, grated. A little salt. 1 pint milk. i cupful brandy. 8 eggs, beaten separately. Mix in order. Do not add the eggs till ready to boil the pudding. Wet a muslin cloth in hot water, and flour it well. Tie the pudding in it very tight, making no allowance for swelling. Plunge into boiling water, and boil eight hours without stopping. Serve hot with " Wine Sauce." 244 How to Cook Well. . English Plum Pudding. pounds fine bread-crumbs. pound minced suet. pound raisins, stoned and chopped. pound currants, washed and dried. pound brown sugar. teaspoonf ul salt. 2 teaspoonfuls grated nutmeg. 1 teaspoonf ul cloves. 8 eggs, beaten light. 1 cupful brandy. cupful wine. 2 oz. citron (if you like) , sliced thin. Mix all together, and boil seven or eight hours in a close tin pudding-boiler buttered. It is well to mix it the day before, omitting the eggs, which should not be put in until ready to boil it. Keep it in a close covered vessel over night. Serve hot, with Brandy or Wine Sauce. Paradise Pudding. i pound bread-crumbs. 3 apples (minced). A little salt. h. a lemon. A little grated nutmeg. 1 cupful currants. 3 eggs (beaten light). Mix all together, using both the juice and grated rind of the lemon, and having the currants dredged with a little flour. Boil one and one half hours. Serve hot with sauce. Amber Pudding. 2 eggs, well beaten. 4 table spoonfuls orange marma- lade. ^ pound bread-crumbs. | pound sugar. 3 oz. butter, melted. Stir all together ; boil in a buttered mould two hours. Victoria Pudding. Butter, the weight of the eggs. 1 teaspoonful soda, dry. 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Flour, the weight of the eggs. 4 eggs, beaten light. 4 tablespoonf ills jam, any kind. Cream the butter and sugar, and add the eggs ; sift the soda through the flour; add the jam, and steam in a but- tered mould two hours. Serve with hot sauce. Desserts. 245 Boiled Indian Pudding. 1 pint molasses (warm). 1 pint milk. 4 eggs (beaten light). 1 pound suet (minced). Corn meal enough to make a thick batter. 1 teaspoon ful cinnamon. 4 teaspoonf ul nutmeg, grated. Mix together, and beat well. Pour into a buttered pud- ding-boiler, fill not more than two thirds full. Boil three hours. Serve hot with Vinegar or Sour Cream Sauce. One cupful dried currants, dredged with flour and stirred in last, is an improvement. Dundee Pudding. f 1 cupful sugar. I i cupful butter. 2 eggs, beaten light, f 1 cupful milk. I i teaspoonf ul soda, f 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 2 cupf uls flour. Cream the butter and sugar. Mix in order and boil three hours, leaving room to swell. Then turn out and serve hot with sauce. Sour milk may be used, and the cream of tartar omitted. Huckleberry Pudding. ( 1 cupful sugar, t i cupful butter. 2 eggs, beaten light. ( 1 pint milk. \ 1 teaspoonful soda. r 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- tar. Flour to make a stiff batter. A little salt. 1 pint huckleberries. Mix in order ; put into a buttered pudding-boiler, leav- ing room for it to swell, and boil two hours. Serve hot with sauce. 246 How to Cook Well. Fig Pudding. cupfuls flour and bread- crumbs, mixed, nutmeg grated, cupful dried figs, chopped. 1 cupful suet. 1 cupful molasses. c 1 cupful milk. \ 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. Mix in order, and steam two hours. Serve hot with "Wine Sauce." Manchester Pudding. 1 pint milk (very hot). 6 oz. sugar. 2 oz. butter. 3 eggs, well-beaten. Flavoring. 2 cupfuls jam. | pound bread-crumbs. To the milk add sugar and butter, and pour it on the bread-crumbs. When a little cool, stir in the eggs and flavoring. Put the jam into the bottom of a buttered mould. (Raspberry jam is nicest, though any kind will do.) Pour in the batter, steam two hours and serve hot with sauce. Boiled Graham Pudding. 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 cupful raisins (chopped) . 1 cupful molasses. 1 egg (beaten light). 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 1 cupful milk. Mix all together, and do not add more flour, though the batter may look thin. Put into the pudding-pail, leaving room for it to rise. Boil three hours without stopping. Serve hot, with sauce. Boiled Pudding, Take one quart light bread-dough. Roll it out nearly half an inch thick. Spread with apple, cranberry or peach sauce. Roll it up. Lay it in a pudding-bag wet and floured. Tie it tight, but leave room inside for the pudding to swell. Boil two hours without stopping. Serve hot, with sauce. Or make a " Potato Crust " ; spread it an inch thick with Desserts. 247 " Cranberry Sauce," or any kind of stewed fruit which is not very juicy. Roll it in a floured cloth, previously wet, and tie it close at the ends as it will not rise. Boil for two hours without stopping. Serve hot, with pudding sauce. Apple Dumpling. Make " Potato Crust," roll it out one third of an inch thick in the middle, but roll the edges thin, to avoid thick folds of paste. Wring a thick square cloth in hot water; sprinkle it with flour and lay it in a deep dish. Put in it the crust and fill it with sliced apples. Draw the paste together and tie the cloth tightly round it with a strong string. Allow no room for it to swell, and draw the string tight enough to prevent the water from soaking in. Boil a dumpling holding three pints of apple two hours. Then plunge it for a moment into cold water ; untie and turn it out on a platter. Serve hot with sauce. Light Dough Dumplings. Make very light bread-dough into small balls the size of eggs. Have ready a pot of water, boiling fast. Drop in the dumplings, taking care to have the water more than cover them. Cover the pot, and boil for twenty minutes steadily, without lifting the cover. If it stops boiling for a moment, the dumplings will be heavy. Serve hot with butter and sugar, for dessert. Dumplings for Meat. Made like the above, except that you boil the dumplings in the pot with boiling beef. Serve them around the edge of the platter in which you dish the meat. 248 How to Cook Well . PUDDING SAUCES. Hard Sauce. 1 cupful sugar. I Nutmeg. cupful butter. Rub the butter and sugar till creamy. Put into a glass dish, smooth the top with a knife, grate over it a little nutmeg, and set on ice. This can be varied in several ways. You may cover it with grated lemon or orange peel ; in this case put the juice of the lemon or orange through the sauce, adding more sugar. Or, divide the sauce into halves, coloring one by beating through it a large lump of bright-colored jelly. Arrange the white as a mound in the centre, making a circle of the pink around it ; and help some of each to each person. You can color sauce yellow by mix- ing through it the juice of an orange which has been squeezed with the peel through a cloth. Brandy Sauce. Make like " Hard Sauce," and after rubbing the butter and sugar to a cream, "mix in nearly a wineglassfull of brandy. One quarter of a cupful of wine may be substi- tuted for the brandy. Liquid Sauce (plain). cupful butter, cupful sugar. li pints boiling water. Flavoring. 1 tablespoonful flour. Put all together (except the water) in a bowl, set into a kettle of boiling water. When the butter softens, rub into it the flour and sugar. Add the water and flavoring just before serving. Creamy Sauce. h cupful butter. 1 cupful sugar. ^ cupful cream (or milk). 4 tablespoonf uls wine. Put all together in a bowl, set in a pan of boiling water, over the fire. Stir till it thickens and is frothy. Desserts. 249 Rich Pudding Sauce. 1 cupful fine sugar. i cupful butter (cscant). 1 egg (white only). Grated rind of J of a lemon. A little nutmeg (grated). A pinch of salt. 1 wineglassf ul wine. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream. Add the egg, beaten light. Put in the other things and mix all to- gether. Set the bowl over the steam of the tea-kettle till boiling hot. Leave it for a few minutes, stirring it most of the time. If too thick put in a tablespoonf ul of boiling water. Lemon Sauce. 2 cupfuls boiling water. 1 cupful sugar. 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 1 email tablcspoonful butter. U tablespoonf uls cornstarch. Have the water on the stove. Boil the sugar in the water five minutes. Rub the cornstarch smooth in a very little cold water. Add that, and boil all together for ten minutes. Then put in the lemon and butter. Stir till the butter is melted, and serve at once. Aglaia Sauce. 4 table spoonfuls sugar. 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 egg (white only), i cupful boiling water. Flavoring. Beat the sugar, butter and flour to a cream. Add the white of the egg (well beaten), and the boiling water. Flavor. Set within a kettle of boiling water to keep hot till time to serve. Molasses Sauce. Boil one cupful of molasses with a large tablespoon ful of butter, and one tablespoonf ul of mixed spices; serve hot. To be used for Apple Fritters, Dumplings, etc. 250 How to Cook Well- 1 pint milk. h cupful sugar. Custard Sauce. 2 eggs. teaspoonful vanilla. Put the milk to boil in a pail set within one of boiling water. Beat eggs, sugar, and vanilla together. When the milk boils, pour it over the mixture. Return all to the fire, and boil a moment. Jelly Sauce. | cupful boiling water. 3 teaspoonfuls cornstarch. 1 tablespoonful butter. h cupful jelly. Into the boiling water, stir the cornstarch (previously wet to a paste with a very little cold water). When it thickens add the butter. Remove from the fire. When a little cooled, beat in slowly the jelly. (Currant, cran- berry, or barberry are best.) Return to the fire to be- come very hot, but not boil. Wine Sauce. (No. 1.) 1 cupful sugar. I f cupful boiling water. 1 tablespoonful butter. I cupful currant wine. Put the butter and sugar into a sauce-pan to melt. Pour over them the boiling water. When ready to serve, beat up, and add the wine. Serve hot. No. 2. f h pound butter. 1 egg (yolk only). pound sugar (brown). h cupful wine. A little nutmeg. Rub the butter and sugar together. Add the yolk of the egg, beaten. Stir over the fire (setting the bowl within boiling water) till it thickens. Before serving, add the wine and grate in a little nutmeg. A very rich sauce. Desserts. 251 Vanilla Sauce. f 1 pint milk. I i table spoonful cornstarch. 1 3 tablespoonf uls sugar. | i teaspoonf ul vanilla. Put the milk and sugar to boil. Add the cornstarch (rubbed to a paste in a little cold milk) when boiling well. Stir till it thickens. Add the vanilla and serve. (Good with Apple Puddings.) Sally's Vinegar Sauce. U cupfuls brown sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls butter. tablespoonf uls vinegar (nearly), teaspoon ful salt. i teaspoonf ul lemon extract. 1 cupful flour (more or less). 2 cupfuls boiling water. Put all together except the water in a bowl, and set in a kettle of boiling water. Mix all together till smooth ; when ready to serve add the water, and if not thick enough mix in a little more flour, previously rubbed to a pnste in cold water. Let all boil together for a moment. N. B. If the vinegar is very strong use part water. Nice for Gingerbread Pudding. Syrup Sauce. Take any syrup left from preserves or canned fruit. Bring it to a boil, and thicken it a little by stirring in a tablespoonful cornstarch (rubbed to a paste in cold water), to each one and one half cupfuls of juice. Boil up a mo- ment till of the consistency of cream. A delicious sauce for almost anything. (The cores and parings of rich tart apples boiled down and strained, with sugar and cornstarch afterwards added, makes a very fair Syrup Sauce.) Yellow Sauce. f 2 eggs. 1 1 orange, or a glass of wine. 1 2i cupfuls white sugar. Beat the eggs and sugar together, till very light. Add the juice of the orange (or the wine), and half the rind, grated. Serve cold. For Cottage Pudding, etc. 252 How to CooJc Well: German Sauce. 2 eggs (whites only). 1 lemon (juice only). Sugar. Beat the eggs light. Then add a little sugar and the lemon-juice. Thicken with sugar, enough only to make it a little stiff. Pour over and around Baked or Coddled Apples, Quinces or Pears ; or serve with Berry Puddings. Sour Cream Sauce. This is simply rich sour cream, beaten and thickened with a great deal of white sugar. Good with Corn-meal Puddings ; and still better with Gingerbread Pudding, the contrast in color adding to its attractiveness. N. B. The cream must not be old, or it will be bitter. DELICACIES FOR DESSERT. EEMAEKS. In making custard or anything for which boiled milk is necessary, use a double-boiler, so as not to scorch the milk. If you have none, set the sauce-pan within a pan of boiling water. Anything containing lemon-juice or vinegar should be cooked in a bowl or in granite ware, as tin has an un- pleasant effect upon acids. In adding eggs to boiling milk or water, pour a good deal (if not all) of the hot milk on them, stirring fast, before putting all together over the fire. If you put the cold egg into the hot milk, without first equalizing the temperature, it will be almost sure to curdle. Leave the mixture on the stove only a moment after the egg is in, and stir all the time. If these directions are followed, and on taking it from the fire a custard is poured at once into a cold vessel, it will be Desserts. 253 impossible to meet with failure. Do not flavor till you have taken the custard from the fire. Blanc Mange is improved by being set on ice. At all events, keep it in the coldest place you can find till ready to serve it. Then wring out a cloth in hot water and hold around the outside of the mould for a moment; it will then turn out easily and in good shape. When gelatine is used, soak it (unless otherwise di- rected), in a warm place for two hours, allowing half a cupful cold water to each half box of gelatine ; then pour on it a half-cupful of boiling water, arid dissolve it. The best way to strain jellies, etc., is through a coarse napkin laid over a sieve. FLAVORINGS FOR CUSTARDS, ETC. Zest. Rub lumps of white sugar over the peel of a lemon, and melt them in custard. This is a most delicate way of getting the flavor of lemon-peel. Burnt Sugar Flavoring. Put one tablespoonful brown sugar into a pan ; stir it till it becomes dark as taffy. Add,one cupful of boiling water ; let it stand a minute. Use enough of it to give a good flavor and bottle the rest for use another time. Syrup Flavoring. The syrup of quince, peach and other preserves, makes delicious flavoring for custard. A little jelly dissolved in custard also gives an agreeable flavor. "Wine Jelly. j i box Cox's gelatine. \ 1 cupful cold water. 1 cupful boiling water. I pint Sicily Madeira wine. 1 large lemon, sliced, li cupfuls sugar. 3 inches stick cinnamon, broken fine. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Have ready in a por- celain sauce-pan the other ingredients, the seeds being re- 254 How to Cook Well. moved from the lemon. Pour the gelatine upon them, and set it on the fire. Do not let it boil, but when it be- gins to bubble slightly on the edges, take it off, and strain. Pour into a deep dish, with a flat square bottom, if possi- ble. When cold and firm, cut into large squares or blocks, and pile in a glass dish. These directions, if carefully and exactly followed, will make a handsome, clear jelly, very delicate and well-fla- vored. " The best I ever tried," said the friend who gave it to me. Wine Jelly, Without Boiling. 1 package Cox's gelatine. 1 pint cold water. 3 lemons. 1 quart boiling water. 1 pint wine. l pounds sugar. Soak the gelatine in the water for two hours, with the juice of the lemons, and the rinds pared very thin. Then strain out the lemon rind, mix with the boiling water, and add the wine and sugar. When the sugar is dissolved strain, and pour it into wet blanc-mange moulds, and set it away to harden. Claret Jelly. box Cox's gelatine, cupful cold water, cupful boiling water. 1 lemon (juice only). 1 pint claret. 1 cupful sugar. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When slightly cooled, add the lemon-juice, claret and sugar. Stir till the latter is dissolved. Strain, and pour into wet moulds to stiffen. Nice for invalids. Cider Jelly. 1 box Cox's gelatine. 1 pint cold water. 1 pint boiling water. 2 pounds sugar. 3 lemons (juice only). 1 pint champagne cider. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Then add the sugar and dissolve it. Let it cool a little. Then stir in the Desserts. 255 lemon-juice and cider. Strain, and pour into wet moulds. This is a delicious jelly, and is much relished by inva- lids who cannot take wine. Wine and Orange Jelly. box Cox's gelatine, cupful cold water, cupful boiling water. 1 lejnon (juice only). 1 large wineglass Sherry wine. 1 heaping cupful sugar. 2 oranges (juice only). Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When slightly cool add the orange and lemon-juice and the wine. Put in the sugar, and stir till dissolved. Pour into wet moulds, and leave it to stiffen. A pretty way to serve it is to break it into pieces, and spread them over a glass platter. This makes a very sparkling dish. Orange Jelly. 1 oz. isinglass. 1 cupful water. 1 lemon. Sugar to taste. 8 sweet oranges. Soak the isinglass in the water till it is dissolved. Rub the peel of four oranges on several lumps of sugar. Dis- solve these in the juice of the eight oranges and the lemon. Mix this with the isinglass, and sweeten to taste. Strain, and pour the mixture into wet moulds. Orange Baskets, with Jelly. i box gelatine, i cupful cold water. 1 cupful boiling water. 1 pint orange- juice. 1 large lemon. 1 cupful sugar. "Whipped Cream" (may be omitted). Before you cut the oranges (eight usually make one pint of juice) mark with a pen-knife two lines, over one half, for a handle ; then mark on each side, a line between the two ends of the handle. Remove the peel between these marks. This will leave the peel shaped like a basket. 256 How to Cootc Well. Take out the pulp carefully. Put it into a bag with the cut-off rind and the lemon sliced. Squeeze, adding more oranges if necessary to make a pint of juice. Dissolve the sugar in the juice. Do all this while the gelatine is soaking on the stove where it will not boil. It may be left for half or three quarters of an hour. Then dissolve it in the boiling water. Pour it upon the juice and sugar. Strain it, and pour it into wet dishes to stiffen. When firm, and just before serving, break it into rough pieces and fill the baskets high. If you wish to make them look very attractive, heap " Whipped Cream " on the jelly. In either case, set the baskets on a platter covered with leaves or flowers; or prettier still, bunches of grapes. Beautiful for a company supper-table. Lemon Jelly. k box Cox's gelatine, i cupful cold water. 2 large lemons (juice only). 1 large cupful sugar. I cupful boiling water. 1 1 pint cold water. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. When a little cool, add the juice of the lemons, sugar and the pint of cold water. Stir till the sugar is dissolved. Strain it and pour into wet moulds. Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. / cupful sea moss. 1 1 large lemon (juice only). I 1 quart water (nearly). I Sugar to taste. Soak the sea moss in the water for half an hour. Then put it on to boil for twenty minutes, without adding more water. (Notice the time when it begins to boil.) Strain it through a cloth laid over a sieve, without squeezing it at all. Add the lemon-juice, sweeten it, and pour into wet moulds. It will become stiff as soon as cold. Very delicate, and much relished by invalids. Desserts. 257 Snow Pudding. k box Cox's gelatine. 1 cupful cold water. 1 cupful boiling water. 1 large lemon (juice only). 14 cupfuls sugar. 4 eggs (whites only). Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the lemon-juice and the sugar. Strain into a large dish and set in a cold place. Leave it till it beyins to set, but not till very stiff (it will probably take an hour). Have ready the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Beat them well into the jelly a spoonful at a time ; fifteen or twenty minutes will not be too long to beat it. Put it in wet moulds tillstiff. Then turn out on a platter, and pour over it the following cus- tard, when cold. Or serve the moulds by themselves, and serve the custard in a glass pitcher. (Makes two moulds.) Custard. I quart boiling milk, f 4 eggs (yolks only). \ J cupful sugar. Flavoring. Make like " Boiled Custard." A very ornamental dish. Orange Snow. 1 box Cox's gelatine. 2 rinds of oranges. 1 cupful cold water. 1 cupful boiling water. 4 oranges (juice only). 2 cupfuls white sugar. 4 eggs (whites only). Cut the rinds into thin slips and soak with the gelatine. Then dissolve in the boiling water, and strain. Stir in the juice of the oranges with the sugar until dissolved. Add the whites of the eggs (beaten very stiff). Beat all well together till it looks like snow, and is stiff. While the gelatine is soaking, make the following cus- 258 How to Cook Well. tard. Pour it into a glass dish, and when cold heap the beaten snow on top. Custard. 1 pint milk. I cupful sugar. 4 eggs (yolks only). | It is an improvement to soak thin slices of sponge-cake in wine, and put them in the bottom of the dish, pouring the custard over. Fruit Jelly. (An Ornamental Dish to Serve with Meats.) Make " Lemon Jelly." Put a little in a wet mould, and set the rest in a pan of hot water to keep it liquid. When that in the mould begins to stiffen lay in a few strawber- ries with the hulls on, a few cherries in bunches with the stems, and anything else you like. Pour in more jelly, and proceed as before. Set away to become firm. Jelly with Bananas. Make "Lemon or Wine Jelly," and proceed as above, using only bananas cut around in slices. Serve for dessert. Coffee Jelly. { box Cox's gelatine, cupful cold water. 1 quart strong, clear coffee. Sugar to taste. Soak the gelatine in the cold water. Make a quart of strong coffee, and strain it. Make it very sweet. Set it on the fire, to become boiling hot ; then pour it at once on the gelatine. Put it into wet moulds to stiffen, and then turn out. Another way is, to pour it into a square pan, and when stiff, cut it into cubes an inch square, and heap in a glass dish. This is a very pretty way to serve it with ice-cream, and makes a dainty dessert, served with cream alone. If for an invalid, do not make the coffee very strong. Desserts. 259 Coffee Cream. oz. Cox's gelatine, cupful cold water. cupful sugar. cupful cream (milk will do). 4 cupful strong, hot coffee. Soak the gelatine ; then pour over it the coffee (well cleared), and dissolve the sugar in it. When a little cool, stir in the cream. Strain, and pour into wet moulds. It will take twelve hours to stiffen. Makes one large mould. Mont Blanc. box Cox's gelatine. 1 quart milk. 1 teaspoonful vanilla (or a few drops rose extract). 1 cupful sugar. Soak the gelatine in half a cupful of the milk for fifteen minutes. Put the rest on the stove in a double boiler ; and when scalding hot, dissolve the gelatine and the sugar in it. Remove from the fire, and when partly cool, stir in the flavoring. Pour into wet moulds. When firm turn out, and serve with cream. Banana Blanc Mange (or other Fruit). box Cox's gelatine, cupful water. J cupful sugar. 3 bananas (or other fruit). li pints milk. Soak the gelatine in the water for half an hour. Boil the milk and sugar together. Then pour a little of the hot milk on the gelatine and dissolve it. Pour into the hot milk and boil all together ten minutes. Remove, and when beginning to stiffen, stir in the bananas, previously broken with a fork. Put into wet moulds. Serve with cream. Eat the day it is made: Velvet Cream. 4 box Cox's gelatine. 4 cupful cold water. 4 cupful boiling water. 1 pint cream. | cupful sugar. i cupful Sherry wine. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the cream with the sugar dissolved in it. Then put in the wine. Stir 260 How to Cook Well. fast so that it will not lump. Strain and pour into wet moulds to stiffen. Fills two moulds. Mille Fruit Cream. | oz. gelatine. {1 cupful milk. 1 cupful cream, i cupful sugar. Preserved fruit. Syrup of the preserves. Put the gelatine to soak in enough cold water to cover it. Leave it in a warm place. In the meantime butter slightly the inside of a mould, and select handsome pieces of preserved fruit of several kinds wherewith to garnish it. Use ginger, watermelon rind, cherries, plums, and anything else that is firm and of a rich color and pretty shape. Lay these around the edges of the mould. Mix the milk, cream and sugar together, and whip to a froth. When light and thick, beat in the syrup of the different fruits (a little of each), and mix in gently more of the fruit such as you used in garnishing. Then dissolve the gelatine, adding a very little boiling water to it if necessary. Strain it into the whipped cream, stirring all the time quickly, but lightly, with your whisk. Let it stand a few moments until it settles. Put it into the mould carefully, a little at a time, so as not to displace the fruit in the mould. Put in a cold place for three or four hours, when it will be stiff enough to turn out. N. B. Do not use more than one cupful of preserve juice in all. A beautiful dish for a company supper table. Desserts. 261 Bavarian Cream With Eggs. i box Cox's gelatine. i cupful warm water. 1 quart cream. 4 tablespoonfuls sugar. 4 eggs (yolks ouly). 1 teaspoouf ul vanilla. Soak the gelatine in the warm water for two hours. Put one pint of the cream in a double-boiler, and heat to a boiling point, but do not boll it. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in this, and remove from the fire. When it is a little cool, beat the eggs and stir them in. Leave it till thick as mush, but not firm. Then beat in lightly a spoonful at a time the remaining pint of cream, whipped light. Then pour into wet moulds, to form. Bavarian Cream Without Eggs. i box Cox's gelatine. | cupf uls cold water. J cupful boiling water. 1 cupful sugar. 1 wineglass wine. 1 pint cream. Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Add the sugar and wine ; set it on the stove and stir till it begins to thicken. Then remove and beat in the cream, previously whipped. Pour into the mould to stiffen. Chocolate Bavarian Cream. Make like the above, but add more sugar, and omit the wine, and substitute four tablespoonfuls of chocolate, pre- viously wet to a smooth paste with a little boiling water. Bavarian Cream With Berries. f h box Cox's gelatine. 1 4 cupful warm water. 2i pounds strawberries or raspberries. Sugar, to make very sweet. 1 pint cream, whipped. Soak the gelatine in the warm water, for one hour, on the back of the stove where it will not boil. While it is soak- ing, squeeze the berries through a bag, or pulp them through a colander. In the juice, dissolve the sugar. 262 How to Cook Well Then stir in the soaked gelatine. Leave it until it begins to stiffen, and then beat in the whipped cream. Put into wet moulds. If you choose, serve fresh berries around the Cream when it is turned out of the mould. Spanish Cream. | box Cox's gelatine. 1 quart milk. l small cupfuls sugar. 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 1 gill wine (or, teaspoonful flavoring). 1 lemon. Soak the gelatine in one cupful of the milk, cold, for twenty minutes. Boil the rest of the milk in a double- boiler. Pour it upon the gelatine and dissolve it. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the wine with the sugar, reserv- ing half a cupful of the latter. Add the dissolved gel- atine. Stir all well together. Pour into the dish in which it is to be served. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; then stir in the reserved half cupful of sugar and the juice of the lemon. Spread a part of this frosting with a knife around the rim of the dish containing the custard. Then cover the whole top either smoothly or roughly with the remainder. Set it in a very hot oven, just long enough to brown delicately. When cool set it on ice to stiffen. This will keep three or four days in a cold place, and is best made the day before it is to be used. Italian Cream. r \ box Cox's gelatine. \ 2| cupfuls milk. 3 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 5 tablespoonfuls sugar. Flavoring. Put the gelatine and the milk together in a double boiler. When the milk is scalded, stir the gelatine to dis- solve it. Remove from the fire, and pour the mixture Desserts. 263 upon the yolks of the eggs, previously beaten with the sugar. Stir fast to avoid curdling. Put back on the stove and boil a minute as you would custard. Do not leave it too long or it will curdle. Take it off, and when a little cool, add the flavoring, and slowly and gradually stir in the whites beaten stiff. Beat all five minutes, then pour into wet moulds, and set away to harden. This makes a rich and beautiful looking dish, clear on top, yellow in the middle and like Charlotte Russe below. Ribbon Blanc Mange. 1 box Cox's gelatine. 1 pint cold water. 3 cupfuls milk. 2| cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs, yolks only. 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate grated. A little red syrup. Soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours. Put the sugar and milk in a double boiler ; when it begins to boil, add the gelatine and stir it till dissolved. Remove and strain it ; and divide it into four parts. Have ready a scalloped tin cake-mould, with a tube in the centre. Wet it, pour in one part of the blanc mange, and set it in a cold place. Into the second part stir the beaten yolks. Into the third, mix any kind of bright-colored pivserve-syrup, jelly, or prepared cochineal. Into the fourth, stir the chocolate, previously dissolved in a little of the hot milk. Set the vessels containing the different portions into one of hot water. When the white mixture begins to stiffen, pour in the yellow, which should be boiled a minute to cook the eggs. When that is a little stiff, add the pink; and when that is ready, the chocolate. When firm, turn out, and put a large, bright-colored flower in the centre, if you want the dish very pretty. This or a plain conical mould shows the colors to better advantage than a fancy shape. 264 How to Cook Well Chocolate Gelatine Blanc Mange. 1 quart milk. 1 oz. Cooper's gelatine. 3 eggs (yolks and whites sepa- rate). 5 tablespooufuls grated choco- late. 1 teaspoonful vanilla, if you like. | cupful sugar. Soak the gelatine in one cupful of the milk for fifteen minutes. Put the rest in a double-boiler, and heat to the boiling-point Dissolve the chocolate in a few spoonfuls of the hot milk. Have ready the yolks of the eggs beaten with the sugar. Mix these with the chocolate thoroughly. Pour the hot milk over the mixture, stirring fast, to pre- vent curdling. Return to the fire and boil a minute, stir- ring all the time. Remove, and when partly cool stir in lightly the beaten whites of the eggs and the vanilla. Pour into wet moulds, and set in a cold place. It will take twelve hours to harden. Makes two large moulds. A pretty way to serve this is to put it in a tin cake- mould with a tube in the middle. When stiff, turn it out, and heap u Whipped Cream " in the hole in the middle and around the base. Imitation Hen's Nest. For several days before you make this, save the shells of the eggs used for cooking ; pour the contents through a small hole at one end, thus keeping the shells as whole as possible. Rinse them out with cold water. Make Blanc Mange by the receipt for Mont Blanc. While liquid, fill the egg-shells (wet), and set them in a pan of flour till the next day. Then cut into narrow strips the fresh rinds of four or- anges. Stew them till tender in enough water to cover them. Add one cupful sugar, and cook fifteen minutes longer in the syrup. Spread them, then, on a platter to cool, taking care not to break them. Desserts. 265 When cool, arrange them in the shape of a nest (hollow in the middle) in a low, round glass dish. Carefully break the shells from the Blanc Mange, and lay the artificial eggs prettily in the middle, with a few pieces of the imi- tation straw scattered about. Serve with cream. This is a very ornamental and inexpensive dessert, and is much more easily prepared than many which are not so pretty. I have had it for dessert on Easter, before I heard of Marion Ilarland's still prettier dish of " Easter Eggs," which are made like these, but of different colors. If you choose, put a layer of "Lemon" or "Cider Jelly " under the " nest," not allowing it to show. The flavor is pleasant. Junket. 1 quart new milk. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla or a few drops rose extract. 1 tablespoonf ul prepared rennet. Mix all together about one and one half hours before it is to be eaten, in the dish in which it is to be served. Set in a warm place, till just firm. Then keep on ice till wanted, and serve with sugar and cream. In cool weather, it will be necessary to prepare it fully two hours before serving. It should not be allowed to stand long after it becomes firm, or the whey will separate. A good Sunday dessert in hot weather, because it re- quires no cooking. Serve with cream and sugar, or fruit syrup. Almond Blanc Mange. 1 1 oz. isinglass. \ 1 quart new milk (warm). j 2 oz. "blanched almonds." \ A little rose-water. I cupful sugar. Soak and dissolve the isinglass in the milk. Pound the almonds in a marble mortar, working them to a smooth 266 How to Cook Well paste with the rose-water. Add them to the milk while warm, sweeten, and pour the whole into wet moulds. When stiff, turn out, and serve with cream and sugar. Rice Blanc Mange. f 1 cupful raw rice (washed). 3 pints water (cold). 1 cupful sugar. 1 lemon (grated rind only). A little cinnamon. cupful cream. cupful preserve- juice or jelly (may be omitted). A little salt. Boil the rice in the water till every grain is dissolved and the water displaced by a thick paste of rice. Stir into it the sugar and lemon rind, salt and cinnamon. Beat the cream to a stiff froth and stir into the rice. Then mix in the preserve juice or jelly, which should be of a bright color. Pack the blanc mange in wet moulds. When stiff, turn out and serve with custard or cream. Snow Balls (a Simple Dessert). Boil rice in salted boiling water till very tender. Wet small cups, and while the rice is still hot, pack it in the cups till half filled. Set in a cold place for about three hours. Just before dinner, scoop out the centre of each (saving the rice for muffins) and fill with bright-colored jelly, or a piece of any kind of preserves. ^ Turn out the moulds on a platter, and pour soft custard around the base, taking care to let none of the custard fall on the tops of the Snow Balls. Or, serve simply with cream and sugar. An easy Sunday dessert for hot weather. Tapioca or Sago Blanc Mange. i cupful tapioca or sago. 1 pint cold water. i cupful sugar. 1 lemon (juice only). Soak the tapioca in the water for two hours. Then put in a double-boiler, and boil slowly till soft. Add the Desserts. 267 sugar and lemon-juice, and boil till transparent. Pour into wet moulds, and eat with cream and sugar when stiff enough to turn out. To vary this omit the lemon, and mix in apple sauce, preserved or canned fruit left from tea (cut fine), using also the juice. Substitute milk for water, and omit the lemon if you choose. Rouge Mange. (A Danish fieceipt.) Boil cranberries, cherries or red currants in enough water to cover them. Crush them with a wooden spoon while boiling. When soft, squeeze through a bag. To two quarts of juice put half of a pound of sugar. Put this on the stove. When it begins to boil throw in a scant quarter of a pound of sago, soaked for one hour in just enough water to cover it. Boil till the sago is transparent, stirring often. Do not let it scorch. Pour into wet moulds. When stiff, turn out and serve with cream and sugar. Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 1 quart milk. 4 tablespoonfuls sugar. A pinch of salt. 5 even tablespoonfuls corn- starch. 1 teaspoonf ul flavoring. Put" the milk in a double-boiler with the sugar and salt, and set it on the stove, reserving one cupful. Rub the cornstarch to a paste with this, and add to the hot milk when boiling fast. Stir well, and let it boil about five minutes, till thick. Take from the fire. Flavor, and pour into wet moulds. Rich Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 1 quart milk. i saltspoonful salt. 1 cupful sugar. 4 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 3 eggs (yolks only). 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange." Pour 268 How to Cook Well. a little over the beaten yolks of the eggs, stirring fast. Return to the kettle, and boil a moment, stirring con- stantly. Remove, flavor, and pour into wet moulds. Chocolate Cornstarch Blanc Mange. (No eggs.} ( 1" cupful milk. 1 1 heaping tablespoonful sugar. 1 heaping tablespoonful cornstarch. 1 heaping tablespoonful grated chocolate. Allow this quantity to every two persons, and increase it according to the size of your family. Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange," but mix the chocolate (wet to a paste with a few spoonfuls of hot milk) with the cornstarch before adding it. German Blanc Mange. 1 quart milk. 4 table spoonfuls sugar. i saltspoonf ul salt. 5 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 3 eggs (whites only). A few drops rose-extract. Make like " Simple Cornstarch Blanc Mange." When you take it from the fire, stir in lightly with a fork the whites of the eggs (beaten stiff}, and flavor. Pour into wet moulds. When firm, turn out on a platter, and pour around it the following Soft Custard. 1 pint milk. I 3 eggs (yolks only). 2^ tablespoonfuls sugar. To make it, see Boiled Custard. A very delicate and simple dessert. Arrowroot Blanc Mange. 1 pint milk. 1J tablespoonfuls Bermuda arrowroot. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. A pinch of salt. A few drops rose-extract. cupful cold water. Scald the milk. Rub the arrowroot to a paste with the water. Stir this into the milk while boiling. Add the Desserts. 269 sugar and salt, and boil till it thickens, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire, flavor and pour into wet moulds to stiffen. (Water may be used instead of milk.) Excellent for invalids. Sea Moss Blanc Mange. 4 cupful sea moss. I i cupful sugar. 1 quart milk. Wash the moss and soak half an hour in enough cold water to cover it. Then put it and the water in which it was soaked in a double-boiler with the milk. Set on the stove. Notice when it begins to boil ; and boil gently for twenty minutes. Then strain through a cloth, sweeten, and pour it into wet moulds. It will not have percepti- bly thickened at all, but do not boil it any longer. It will stiffen as soon as cold. On no account spoil the natural flavor of the moss by adding any kind of essence. If the moss is old it will be necessary to use more than if fresh. Whipped Cream or Syllabub. Sweeten and flavor the cream. Then beat in a deep bowl with a Dover egg-beater. As the froth rises take it off, and put it on a sieve. What drains off can be col- lected and beaten or whipped again. Heap it in glasses and serve soon. Serve fancy crackers with it, or " Sponge Cake." A tiny bit of soda stirred into the cream before whip- ping it, will prevent its turning to butter in hot weather. Charlotte Russe. 4 oz. Cox's gelatine. 4 cupful hot milk. 1 pint cream. 2 eggs (whites only). 4 tablespoonfuls wine (or a little vanilla), cupful sugar (pulverized). Soak and dissolve the gelatine in the milk. Sweeten the cream. Beat it a little. Then add to it the whites 270 How to Cootc Well of the eggs (previously beaten stiff) and the wine. Beat all together with a Dover egg-beater. Add the gelatine and beat all till it thickens well. Have ready a square mould, lined with thin slices of sponge cake, with the crust cut off, or with lady-fingers. Fill at once with the mixture. Lay a few slices of the cake over the top, and set it away to stiffen. When firm, turn it out on a pretty dish. Fills a large mould. Simple Charlotte Busse. ( 1 pint rich cream. J 1 wineglassful wine (or half a teaspoonful vanilla). [ i pound pulverized sugar. 2 eggs (whites only). Flavor and sweeten the cream. Then whip it. Beat the eggs light, add the cream and beat all together thor- oughly. Proceed as with the last receipt for " Charlotte Russe." It is best made the day before it is to be eaten. Christmas Charlotte Russe. 1 tablespoonf ul Cox's gela- tine. 1 tablespoonf ul cold water. 1 cupful milk. 3 eggs (yolks and whites sepa- k cupful sugar. | teaspoonful vanilla (or a lit- tle wine). 1 pint rich cream. Sponge cake. rate). Soak the gelatine in the water fifteen minutes. Heat the rnilk in a double-boiler. When it begins to boil, add the gelatine, and stir till dissolved. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar. Pour the boiling milk on them, and return to the fire. Boil a minute (stirring all the time), till it thickens well. Take it off. When partly cool add the vanilla. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Pour the cream on them, and whip them together as light as possi- ble. As soon as the custard is perfectly cold add it to the Desserts. 271 whipped cream. Mix well. Proceed to fill moulds as in the two previous receipts. Charlotte Russe Pudding. pints milk. teaspoon ful cornstarch. cupful white sugar. 4 eggs (beaten separately). 3 teaspoonful flavoring. Sponge cake. Make like " Cornstarch Custard," reserving the whites of the eggs. Have ready in a deep dish some slices of sponge cake. Pour the hot custard on them. When cool, cover with a " Meringue " and brown delicately. Serve cold. Boiled Custard. 1 quart milk, f 5 eggs (yolks only). 1 5 tahlespoonf uls sugar. Flavoring ("Zest" is best). Put the milk into a double-boiler on the stove. Beat the eggs and sugar together, and when the milk boils pour it over them (if you add the eggs to the milk there is danger of curdling), stirring briskly as you do so. Re- turn to the fire for a moment, to cook the eggs. Stir att the time. Remove, and when cool, mix in the flavoring. Pour into a custard-dish and grate a little nutmeg over the top, if you like. If you make half the quantity, use three eggs (yolks only). Maple sugar gives a delicate and agreeable flavor to custards. It is much used in the White Mountains. Cornstarch Custard (boiled). 1 quart milk. f i quart miiK. r 4 tal \ A pinch of salt. j 3 e g 4 table spoonfuls sugar. ;gs (yolks only). Flavoring. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. Put the salt with the milk in a double-boiler on the stove, reserving a little of the milk in which to rub the 272 How to Cook Well. cornstarch. When the milk boils, add the latter, and let it boil a few minutes. Then pour it over the sugar and eggs (beaten together), stir fast and return to the fire. Boil a moment, stirring all the time. Take it off, and when cool mix in the flavoring or a little wine. If you wish, use one egg less, and one spoonful more of cornstarch. Or use less cornstarch if you like it thin. Floating Island. Make either of the two custards given above. Substi- tute flour for the cornstarch if you prefer, using a little less. When cool, and shortly before serving, beat the whites of the eggs, add pulverized sugar, and drop it in large spoonfuls on top of the custard. Then dot each "Island " with bright-colored tart jelly. Raspberry Floating Island is made as above, but to make the islands, see " Raspberry Trifle." Apple Floating Island. Make the islands like " Ap- ple Snow." Jelly Floating Island. Beat a little red jelly with the whites of the eggs. Chocolate Floating Island. To the beaten whites of the eggs add two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate. Floating Island, without Cooking. Put a pint of cream into a glass dish ; beat the whites of the eggs stiff; add a little pulverized sugar and currant jelly ; beat all to a stiff froth, and pile in spoonfuls on the surface of the cream. Serve soon with fancy crackers. Or arrange it in cups, and put a macaroon in each. Apple Custard. If you have custard left from dinner, it will serve a second time by filling the bottom of the dish with apple- Desserts. 273 sauce and pouring the custard over. A very nice des- sert. Serve nice crackers with it. Berries, sliced peaches, or pears are nice served thus. Orange Custard. 2 oranges. ( 5 eggs. 1 2 cupf uls sugar. 2 cupfuls milk. To the rind of one orange, grated, add the juice of both. Beat the eggs and sugar together, and add them. Mix all with the milk. Pour into custard-cups, set in a pan of hot water, and bake half an hour, till firm. Lemon Custard. 2 lemons. 1 large cupf ul sugar. 5 eggs. Put into a porcelain sauce-pan, or pitcher, the juice of the lemons and the rind of one grated. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten with the sugar. Set the sauce-pan into a pan of boiling water, on the stove ; stir constantly until it bubbles, to prevent curdling. Have ready the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Take the custard off the stove, and lightly beat them in. Pour into a glass dish or custard-cups. Serve cold. Tipsy Parson. Moisten slices of stale cake with wine, and lay them in the bottom of a custard-dish. Have ready a "Boiled Cus- tard " ; pour it while hot on the cake. Do not serve it for two hours. This is a good way to use up stale cake or gingerbread, though the latter is not so nice. A richer dish may be made by spreading the cake with jelly, after moistening it, and by beating the whites of the eggs, afterwards sweetened, with which to cover the top. 274 How to CooJc Well. Cup Custard. 1 quart milk. I 4 tablespoonf uls sugar. 3 eggs. I 1 teaspoonf ul flavoring. Scald the milk and pour it upon the eggs and sugar, previously beaten together, stirring to avoid curdling. Flavor, and pour while hot, into small cups. Set them in a dripping-pan, and fill that with hot water deep enough to reach two thirds up the cups. Set them in a moderate oven for about ten minutes ; until firm. Take them out as soon as done, or they will curdle, and serve when cold. Richer custards may be made by using six eggs, yolks only. Grated nutmeg, lemon peel, chocolate or cocoanut, may be scattered over the top. Baked Custard. / 4 eggs. cupful of sugar. 1 teaspoonful flavoring. 1 quart of milk. A pinch of salt. Beat the eggs and sugar together ; add salt, flavoring and milk (cold). Pour into a buttered pudding-dish; set this into a pan of hot water, and put it in a very hot oven. It should not cook more than half an hour. It is a good plan to keep it covered the first ten min- utes ; as soon as firm, take it out before it curdles. This may be baked in cups if preferred. Delmonico Pudding. 1 quart milk. A pinch of salt. 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 4 eggs, beaten separately. A little flavoring. | cupful jelly. cupful sugar. Mix like " Cornstarch Custard." After adding the fla- voring, pour it into a pudding-dish, and spread jelly over the top. Cover this with a " Meringue," and brown deli- cately in a very hot oven. Serve very cold. Desserts. 275 Another way is, to add more sugar than usual to the "Meringue," and stir in grated cocoanut. Instead of browning it, scatter cocoanut over the top, to give the appearance of snow-flakes. Caramel Custard. Make " Boiled Custard," and use both yolks and whites of the five eggs. Do not flavor it. Put five tablespoon- f uls of light brown sugar into a pan, and set it on the stove to burn, stirring till it becomes a dark brown. While the custard is boiling hot, pour it on the burnt sugar and stir it until it is dissolved. Have ready a pudding-dish, but- tered and hot ; pour in the custard ; set it in a pan of hot water, and proceed as for " Baked Custard." Cocoanut Pudding. Make " Cornstarch Blanc Mange " by either of the re- ceipts given. On removing from the fire stir in one cup of grated cocoanut. Pour into a buttered pudding-dish, and when cold spread with a "Meringue." When baked sprinkle cocoanut on top. Serve cold with cream or " Boiled Custard." Cocoanut Custard Pudding. 1 quart milk. 1 pint grated cocoanut. i cupful sugar. 1 soda cracker, rolled fine. 4 eggs, beaten light. Scald the milk, remove and add the cocoanut. When cold, add the eggs and sugar ; stir in the cracker, and pour into a buttered pudding-dish. Bake in a rather hot oven, nearly half an hour ; until firm. Serve cold. Chocolate Custard Pudding. 1 quart milk. 3 ounces grated chocolate. i cupful sugar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 6 eggs, reserving whites of 3. Boil the milk, first dipping out a little with which to stir the chocolate to a paste ; add it to the boiling milk. 276 How to Cook Well When it has boiled a few minutes remove, and let it cool fifteen minutes ; then stir in the eggs, beaten light. Add the sugar and vanilla. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish in a very hot oven, having the dish set in a pan of boiling water. When firm, which should be in half an hour, re- move and cover with a " Meringue," using the reserved whites of eggs. Serve cold. Orange Pudding. 4 oranges. to sweeten. Cornstarch Custard.' 3 or 2 eggs (whites only). 3 tablespoonf uls pulverized sugar. Peel, slice and sugar the oranges. Pour the custard (while hot) over them, and mix well. When cool cover with a " Meringue." Brown delicately in a very hot oven, the dish being set in a pan of hot water. Serve cold. Berries or preserves may be substituted for the Orange Fool. 2 large oranges, juice only. Sugar to sweeten. 2 or 3 eggs, well beaten. | pint cream. Mix all together, in a pitcher; set this into a pan of hot water, and stir it over a slow fire until it becomes as thick as melted butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into a glass dish and serve cold with nice crackers. Gooseberry Fool. 1 quart ripe gooseberries. I f 1 cupful sugar. 1 tablespoonf ul butter. I 1 3 or 4 eggs, yolks only. Put the gooseberries into cold water on the fire, and when they come to a boil, throw it off, and pour in just enough hot water to cover them, and stew till tender. Then put through a sieve to remove the skins. Desserts. 277 While hot, stir in the butter, sugar and eggs, beaten. Serve cold in a glass dish, with nice crackers. This can be improved by making a " Meringue " for the top. Nonsense. 1 egg, white only. 3 table spoonfuls strawberry or raspberry jam. 2 tablespooufuls currant jelly. Beat the white stiff and add it by degrees to the jam and jelly. Beat till stiff enough for the spoon to stand upright. Serve in glasses with nice crackers. A good way to use preserves left from tea. Raspberry Trifle. 1 pint fresh raspberries. I 4 eggs, whites only. 1 cupful sugar. | h cupful pulverized sugar. Crush the raspberries, and pass them through a sieve to avoid seeds; stir in the sugar; beat the eggs stiff, and add to them the pulverized sugar. By degrees, beat in the sweetened raspberries, until stiff enough to stand in peaks. Apple Snow. 2 cupfuls stewed apples, or 8 I 2 eggs, whites only. baked apples (pulped). 1 1 cupful white sugar. Strain the apple. Beat the eggs light ; then add the sugar gradually. Mix the egg and sugar with the apple while hot, in a deep dish, and beat with the egg-beater three quarters of an hour, or until it will stand alone. Serve before it falls. This makes a very large dish full. Imperial Cream. 1 pint cream. | Sugar to sweeten. 1 large lemon. Boil the cream in a pitcher set within hot water. Dis- solve in it a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the lemon skin 278 How to Cook Well. till yellow. Remove from the fire and stir till nearly cold. Have ready in a custard-dish, the juice of the lemon (strained), with as much sugar as will sweeten the cream. Pour the cream into the dish from a pitcher holding it high and moving it about, so as to mix thor- oughly with the juice. Make it at least six hours before serving ; better if the day before. ICE CREAM, ETC. Frozen Custard. Make " Boiled or Cornstarch Custard," but use as much as one half pound of sugar. Freeze it as directed, on freezer. A Rich Ice Cream. 5 cupfuls cream. [ 14 teaspoonfuls vanilla, li cupfuls sugar. Mix all together and freeze. Good Ice Cream may be made by substituting milk for half the cream. Boil. "Thicken" with one table- spoonful of arrowroot, and add one or two eggs. For six persons. Banana Ice Cream. Make like the above, and mix in, when half frozen, one large banana, mashed with a fork. Or, stir the banana into the following mixture : r 1 quart hot milk. I h pound sugar. \ 2 tablespoonf uls gelatine. | 2 eggs, beaten light. Mix well together and freeze. Peach Ice Cream. Make like "Banana Ice Cream," using one quart peaches, pared, stoned and mashed. Canned peaches, or apricots may be used for this. Desserts. 279 Pine-Apple Ice Cream. 1 quart cream. I 2 pounds sugar. 1 quart milk. | 2 pine-apples, chopped. Sweeten the cream and milk ; freeze, and when nearly frozen add the pine-apples with the juice. (If this is put in before freezing it will curdle the milk.) Beat all to- gether, and finish freezing. Two cans of pine-apple may be substituted for the fresh. Berry Ice Cream. Mash strawberries or raspberries, sweeten and make like " Banana Ice Cream." One quart of berries to one quart of cream is a good proportion. Chocolate Ice Cream. 1 quart milk. 4 tablespoonf uls Baker's choc- olate grated. A little boiling water. 4 tablespoonf ul cornstarch. 1 egg, beaten light, li tcaspoonfuls vanilla. 1 pint cream. li cupfuls sugar. Heat the milk in a double-boiler, reserving a little. Rub the chocolate smooth in the boiling water, and add to the milk with the sugar. Rub the cornstarch in the reserved milk and stir it with the egg ; add this to the milk after it has boiled a few minutes. Stir it for a moment, and remove before it thickens much. When perfectly cold, stir in the vanilla and cream. Freeze. Enough for eight persons. Coffee Ice Cream. 2 quarts milk. 1 pint strong, clear, hot coffee. 1$ pounds sugar. 1 quart rich cream. Mix all together, adding the cream when the mixture is cold, and freeze. Enough for sixteen persons. 280 How to Cook Well. Caramel Ice Cream. pound brown sugar. A little hot water. 3 or 4 eggs, well beaten. Lemon flavoring, if you like. 1 pint milk. Burn one half the sugar in a pan on top of the stove, stirring constantly till soft and dark ; pour in enough of the water to make it liquid. Add the rest of the sugar, mixed with the milk and beaten eggs. Flavor and stir all together. Then freeze. For three persons. Bisque Ice Cream. 3 ounces macaroons. 1 pint cream. 1 glass sherry wine. Sugar to taste. 1 lemon, juice only. Roll or crush fine the macaroons, and beat them into the cream. Then stir in the other ingredients. Whip all together and freeze. To substitute any kind of stale cake for the macaroons makes a good ice cream, but not Bisque ! For three persons. Orange or Lemon Ice. 1 pint water 1 pint sugar. 6 oranges and 2 lemons, or, 6 lemons and 2 oranges. Mix all together, using the juice of all, and the grated rind of three of the oranges or lemons. Freeze. It is an improvement to add when partly frozen, the whites of three or four eggs, beaten stiff. Fruit Ices. 2 quarts water. 3 pounds sugar. 1 quart fruit juice. Brandy, if you like. Sweeten the water, strain any kind of fruit juice ; add it and freeze. This requires a longer time to freeze than other ices. It is an improvement to stir in, when the ice is half frozen, the whites of three eggs, beaten stiff. The juice of currants, cherries and raspberries is delicious for this. Desserts. 281 A Pretty Way to Serve Orange Ice. Cut a round top off the oranges; remove the inside without breaking the skin. Squeeze out the juice. Sweeten and strain. Add a little rurn, one pint of water and two lemons to every half-dozen oranges. Freeze. Fill the skins just before serving. Put the lids on, and serve on plates with napkins under, and ornament the base with geranium leaves. Or serve in orange baskets. (See page 255.) Arrowroot Ice. 2 dessert spoonfuls arrow- root. | cupful cold water. 1 quart boiling water. 4 lemons. 1 pound sugar. Dissolve the arrowroot in the cold water, pour on it slowly the boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, and the grated peel of one. Sweeten and freeze. Peach Ice. 12 peaches. 2 cupfuls sugar. 1 pint water. 3 eggs, whites only. Break the peaches with a fork, and stir all the ingredi- ents together, except the eggs, which should be beaten stiff and added when the mixture is half frozen. One can of peaches may be substituted for the fresh fruit. CANDY. Cream Chocolates. Grate part of a cake of Baker's chocolate, and melt it over the fire, without the addition of water. Mix together confectioner's or pulverized sugar and a little cream, till it is of a thick consistency. Then form it into small balls, rolling each ball when made in fine sugar, and dip it into the chocolate (lukewarm), to form a neat coating on 282 How to Cook Well. the outside. This can be done most easily by sticking the cream-ball on the end of a new wooden toothpick, or any equally tiny stick. Chocolate Caramels (sugar). 3 pounds sugar. 1 cake Baker's chocolate, grated. % pound butter. 1 cupful cream. Set on the stove. Boil from fifteen to twenty minutes from the time it begins to boil. Stir constantly. Have ready buttered pans. Fill them at the fire, or the cara- mel will harden before you can pour it out. Cut into squares. Another, i pound chocolate (grated). 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. {1 pint milk. 3 pounds sugar, i pound butter. Put the milk, sugar and butter on to boil. When it begins to boil, pour a little of the mixture on the choco- late. Rub to a paste, and then pour it into the sauce-pan. Stir it without stopping, after this, and do not let it stop boiling once. When thick, add the vanilla and proceed as above. Chocolate Caramels (molasses). Boil one quart of good New Orleans molasses until it hardens by dropping a little of it in water. Just before removing from the fire, add four ounces of chocolate, finely and uniformly grated. Pour a thin layer into shallow pans slightly greased, and when the surface of the candy has become hardened a little, mark it, with a knife, into squares. The caramels may be flavored with vanilla if you like. Desserts. 283 Another, 1 cake Baker's chocolate, grated. cupful milk. 2 cupf uls bx'own sugar. 1 cupful molasses. Butter size of a walnut, i teaspoonf ul vanilla (may be omitted) . Boil all except the vanilla over a slow fire for about thirty minutes, till it hardens when tested as above. Stir constantly. Add the vanilla just before pouring it into the pans. Maple-Sugar Caramels. 2 pounds maple sugar. | 1 quart rich new milk. Break the sugar into small bits, and put it into a large pan, to allow for boiling over. Add the milk, and set it on the fire ; stir without ceasing with a wooden spoon, in order to prevent its burning. To test whether it is done, drop a little into cold water. When it cracks apart, and seems brittle, it is done. Pour into shallow pans, pre- viously buttered, and mark it in squares with a knife before it becomes quite cold. The success of these favorite caramels depends upon their being boiled to exactly the right point, for which it is difficult to give a rule. The best I can give is, that when a spoonful dripped slowly will string and break apart in dropping it is done. Jelly Drops. Crab-apple or any very firm jelly may be cut into small cubes, rolled thickly in granulated sugar, and laid in a cool, dry place for two or three days. The drops will then be ready to mix with other candies in a box ; they are delicious and look pretty. Stiff marmalade of any kind may be used in the same way. 284 How to Cook Well French Candies (without cooking). 1 egg (white only). Cold water. 1 pound confectioner's sugar (more or less). Flavoring. Break the white of the egg into a cup, and measure about the same bulk of water. Then put the egg into a large earthen bowl, and beat it light. Stir in the water. Then add the sugar till the mixture is stiff enough to handle. (If you get in too much sugar you cannot form the candy well.) Pour in a little vanilla and a few drops each of rose, bitter almond, and lemon extract. Mix well. Dip your hands into pulverized sugar, and form some of the candy into balls the size of a marble. Roll them in granulated sugar, and lay on platters sprinkled with granulated sugar. The balls may be varied by placing an almond in the centre of each, shaping the ball like the almond. Or, flatten the balls, and place the half of an English walnut on both outer sides. Sugared Dates and Raisins may be made by stoning them (cutting open one side only), and filling them with the mixture. Chopped Figs, Dates and Raisins (or any one alone) may be mixed through a part, and made into balls ; or the mixture may be spread in a sugared shallow pan, and marked into small diamonds or squares. Pounded Hickory-Nut Meat mixed with it varies the mixture again. A freshly grated Cocoanut may be stirred into a part, and Chocolate into another. Still another part may be colored a Pretty Pink by the addition of a spoonful of red preserve syrup, or a little cranberry juice ; the cran- berries being stewed, with very little water, and strained. To color yellow, see page 319. Desserts. 285 Both the pink and yellow balls look pretty rolled in cocoanut. Hodge Podge is made by spreading in a shallow, sugared pan a layer of the brown, then the white, and the pink on top. When cut in squares it looks very pretty. An almost endless variety of candies may be made from this receipt. It should be eaten fresh, but must have time to harden, so it is best to make it two days before it is to be used. Fruit Candy. (No. 1.) / 2 pounds sugar. I Raisins and figs (chopped). 1 2 lemons (juice only). Boil the sugar with the lemon-juice (slowly and with- out stirring) till it ropes when poured from the spoon. Then stir in the fruit enough to thicken the syrup well. Pour into buttered shallow pans, and when partly cold, mark it with a knife into pieces one inch square. Another way is to use, instead of the raisins and figs, any or several kinds of preserved fruits, chopped coarse. Use a little more lemon juice in this case. Cream Candy. 1 cupful rich cream. I 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla or rose. 3 pounds sugar. Boil the cream and sugar together, slowly, without stir- ring, till it candies when dropped into cold water. Then stir in the vanilla, and pour into buttered pans. As soon as it is cool, pull strips of it with your hands until very white. The hands should be washed in cold water often, and thoroughly dried afterwards. This keeps the hands from becoming warm and moist, and the candy is much nicer for the extra trouble taken. On no account butter the hands. N. B. It is not necessary to pull the candy at all, but it is much better to do so. 286 How to Cook Well Burnt Almonds. 1 pound almonds. I pound sugar. . 1 cupful water. A few drops vanilla or rose. Put the sugar and water on to boil. While they are heating shell the almonds, but do not pull off the skins. Warm them slightly. When the surface of the syrup is covered with large globules stir in the vanilla and the almonds. Use a wooden spoon. Stir gently in such a way as to detach the sugar from the bottom and sides of the sauce-pan, and to keep the almonds from sticking. They should be thoroughly turned over and over, so that each one may be well coated with sugar. As soon as they give out a crackling noise the sauce-pan should be removed from the fire, and still gently stirred until the sugar appears to be in grains almost like sand. Then the entire contents of the sauce-pan should be turned out on a wire sieve, and covered with paper for five minutes. At the end of that time the almonds should be picked out, the grained sugar which remains being returned to the sauce-pan with only just enough water to dissolve it. Proceed from this point exactly as at the beginning, going all over it again, being careful to wait till the sugar has the same bubbly appearance as before, before putting in the almonds. Give them a second coating of sugar, being sure to keep them separated. If the operation is entirely repeated even three or four times, of course the almonds will have a much thicker coating of sugar. They should, when done, have a rough, uneven surface. Wrap them in fancy papers if you choose. Desserts. 287 Molasses Candy. f 1 pint molasses, j 1 cupful brown sugar. ] Butter size of walnut. [ 1 dessertspoonful vinegar. | teaspoonful soda (dry). Boil the first four ingredients, stirring constantly, in a large kettle. At the end of half an hour test it. If it hardens when dropped into cold water, stir in the soda and pour it into greased pans. When cool, pull it without buttering the hands. The length of time for boiling depends upon the kind of molasses. Some kinds take as long as one and one half hours. The common dark-col- ored molasses boils more quickly, and makes better candy than the nicer kinds. Taffy. Make as above, but do not pull. Mark it off into squares before it hardens. Peanut Candy. Make as above. Have ready the peanuts (two quarts unshelled). When ready to take up the molasses, stir in the peanuts ; pour into shallow pans, and smooth the top with a wet knife. When cool, mark into strips with the knife. Sugar Taffy with Nuts. 1 cupful granulated sugar. I teaspoonful lemon flavoring. 1 cupful peanuts. Put the sugar in a clean frying-pan. Set it on the fire and stir without stopping for about five minutes. As soon as melted remove the sugar from the fire, and stir in the flavoring and nuts. Pour instantly into a greased pan. When cool, mark into strips. If left too long over the fire the syrup will return to sugar. Chop the nuts if you prefer. Any kind of nuts or flavor will do. This is more quickly made than any other candy. 288 How to Cook Well Sugar Candy. 3J pounds white sugar. 3 cupfuls water. 1 table spoonful vinegar. 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Mix all together except the vanilla. Boil slowly with- out stirring. When the bubbles become large, test it as you do "Cream Candy." When ropy take from the fire, add the vanilla, and proceed as with " Cream Candy." The more it is pulled the better it is. Vinegar Candy. 2 cupfuls sugar. | 1 cupful vinegar. Boil until it candies, then proceed as with "Cream Candy." Barley Sugar. (An English Receipt.} r Ik pounds fine loaf sugar. \ 1 pint water. 1 lemon (juice only). 6 drops essence of lemon. Break the sugar into fine lumps. Put it in a sauce-pan with the water to boil. Skim it carefully, till it looks like glue. When it becomes brittle on being dropped into cold water, and will snap, add the lemon-juice and essence. Boil up once, remove from the fire, and set the sauce-pan into a pan of cold water, to cool it quickly. When the first heat has subsided, pour the contents upon a platter (previously buttered). Keep it from spreading out much by pushing it together with a knife. When cool enough to handle, cut off pieces about the size of an egg. Roll them out long with your hands till evenly round like sticks, and twist them slightly. Lay them on buttered platters till cold. Then sift sugar over them. Desserts. 289 Desserts Prepared Quickly. Whipped Cream in glasses with Cake. Baked Apples. Baked Apples with "Whipped Cream, or an uncooked M e- ringuc poured over the tops. Batter Pudding. Vanities. German Puffs. Rice Puffs. Boiled Rice, with raisins, served hot with Sauce. Hidden Apples. Boiled Custard. Floating Island (all kinds). Nonsense. Stewed Fruit with Cake. Fruit of all kinds. Nuts and Raisins. Dates and Figs with Crackers. Junket. Berry or Fruit Charlotte. Snow Balls. Tipsy Parson. Apple Meringue (Simple). Sea Moss Blanc Mange. Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. Preserves and Cake or Crack- ers. Queen's Toast. Fritters (various kinds). Mock Doughnuts. Fruit Short Cake. Bread boiled in Molasses. Cake, cut in squares, with Ger- man Sauce poured over, and Lemonade served with it. Pancakes. Gingerbread Pudding. Ambrosia. Desserts Without Milk. Brown Betty. Fruit and Berry Charlotte. Pies (many kinds). Baked Apple Dumplings. Apple Snow. Tapioca, Kice and Sago Blanc Mange. Lemon Jelly. Lemon Jelly of Sea Moss. Wine Jelly. Cider Jelly. Claret Jelly. Gingerbread Pudding. Sponge Cake. Corn Bread with Hot Sauce. Apple or Berry and Tapioca Pudding. Marlborough Pudding. Nonsense. Pound Cake. Coffee Cake. Gingerbread. Ginger Snaps. Raspberry Trifle. TEA. Suggestions for Tea. Toast of all kinds. Savory Toast. Anchovy Toast. Kamakin Toast. Cracker and Milk Toast. Bread and Milk, (boiled). Bread boiled in Molasses. Tea Cakes, Muffins, etc. Fritters of all kinds. Waffles. Welsh Rarebit. Cheese Fondue. Cottage Cheese. Cold Meat, sliced thin. Cold Tongue. Smoked Beef (shaved). Cold Grated Ham. Devilled Ham or Chicken. Pressed Meats (all kinds). Stewed Kidneys. Poultry Hash. Sweet-Breads. Croquettes (all kinds') . Sandwiches and Rolled Sand- wiches. Fried Chicken. Quail on Toast. Wild Birds on Toast. Eggs in various ways. Smoked Halibut. Smoked Herrings. Sardines. Canned Salmon (various ways). Stewed Codfish. Codfish Puff. Fresh Fish. Oysters. Salads of various kinds. Corn Pudding. Baked Rice. Potatoes, Baked. " Stuffed. " Fried. " Saratoga. " Mattre d'hoteL " RechauffSe. " Lyonnaise. . " With Giblets. " With Gravy. " Stewed. " Escaloped. Radishes. Tomatoes, Raw. " Baked. Stuffed. Spiced Fish. 290 Bread. 291 BREAD. BEMARKS. Use none but good yeast and flour for making bread. The new brands of flour vary very much ; and some, though equally good, require more wetting than others. Notice the first baking; if too stiff, put in a little more water the next time, and remember exactly how much you used. The flour should be sifted, and put in a warm, dry place several hours before mixing. This is particularly important in cold weather, as the bread will rise much better for having the chill taken off the flour. To mix bread, put in all the dry things first, then the shortening, then the yeast (which must be shaken hard before it is taken from the bottle or jar). Lastly, add the water. This should be strictly tepid; for if cold, the bread will not rise well, and if hot, there will be danger of scald- ing the yeast, which spoils its efficacy. When intending to set bread, be sure that the kettle is boiling, so that you can have the water of any tempera- ture desired. The best time to mix bread is about seven o'clock in the evening, in cold weather ; and ten o'clock in hot weather. It rises faster then than in win- ter, and if left standing too long, it will sour. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, either beat hard with a strong, long-handled spoon, or, if you find this too hard work, knead, in the pan, with floured hands. The ob- jection to the latter is, that one is apt to work in too much flour. The softer the dough, the better. Remove the spoon, and cover the pan, which must of course be a large one, to give room for the dough to rise. Set it in a pretty warm place, and where no draught will strike it; not on a chair, as many- do, but nearer the ceil- ing ; for instance, on top of a closet, or the heater of the range, for the upper part of a room is less liable to sudden 292 How to Cook Well changes of temperature in the night. Let it rise till morning. The first thing in the morning, see whether it is light. If it is, and you cannot attend to it, check the further rising, by setting it in a cool place, to wait until you can do so. If not light enough, set it in a warmer place to rise more rapidly. To judge whether the dough is light, tip the pan. If it looks bubbly or spongy all through, it is light ; and the bread should be made out into loaves as soon as possi- ble. If it rises too long, it will become sour or tough. If it is sour, mix in half a teaspoonful of soda (dissolved) before taking it from the pan. When you are going to make out the bread, have everything ready before you put your hands in the dough. Place the bread-board on the table, with a pan of flour and a knife. Grease the baking-pans, which should be deep and square. Scatter flour thickly on the board, and then turn the dough upon it. With the knife, well-floured, chop rapidly the entire surface of the dough, having pre- viously scattered flour thickly over the top. With floured hands turn and double over the edges of the dough, repeating the chopping. Do this until the en- tire mass has been thoroughly chopped. You will have to put more flour on the board to prevent the dough from sticking, but the less flour used the better. Experience will soon teach how to handle the dough rapidly, without using much flour. Then knead all the dough a few times, working it and turning it thoroughly. Strength and dexterity are the chief requisites for good kneading. Every part of the dough must be thoroughly manipulated. Thrust your fists, first one and then the other, quickly and with force into the dough, directing your strokes towards the centre of the mass. As it flattens out, fold it again and again. Bread. 293 Repeat the striking and the folding for twenty min- utes, until every part has been beaten and worked. Thorough kneading shows itself in the fineness and even- ness of the grain of the bread. Careless kneading will produce boles and an uneven texture. A good rule for telling when the dough has been kneaded enough, is to give it a hard blow with the knuckles ; if it returns to its place, and is elastic like a hollow rubber ball, it has been worked enough, and may be cut into portions, and made into loaves. N. B. Many persons omit the chopping, and simply knead longer. But this is both fatiguing and tedious. To make the loaves, simply shape the dough as nearly as you can to fit the pans. Fill them less than two thirds full if the dough is soft; half-full if stiff, for there is then more body to rise. Press it well into the corners of the pans. Cover with a cloth, and set in a warm place to rise. This may take an hour. (N. B. If the dough is soft, as it should be, it will rise more quickly than if a great deal of flour has been worked in in the kneading. In the latter case it may take more than an hour to rise.) When light, it will be nearly up to the top of the pan, and will look spongy at the sides. It should then be put into the oven at once, or it will become sour by rising too long, and will also be in danger of running over the top of the pans when in the oven. Prick the top of each loaf with a fork, and wet the surface with your hand dip- ped in cold water, to make it brown well, and to prevent the crust becoming hard. When baked take it out at once ; stand it up on end against the wall in such a way that the bread will rest on an edge, not on one of its flat surfaces, which would make it soggy. Lay a wet cloth over it, with a dry one outside to soften the crust. 294 How to Cook Well To Bake Bread- Arrange the oven as for roasting meat. If too hot at first, the loaves will burn on the outside and be doughy inside. At the end of fifteen minutes the bread should have risen up and begun to brown. Turn the pans occa- sionally, so that it will bake evenly, and watch it closely to avoid burning. If the top is in danger of burning, lay a thick paper over it, or set a pan of cold water in the oven. Turn the pans often. If the loaves are small they will bake in one hour. When done, the sides of the loaves will shrink from the pans. Take out of the pans at once, and if pale on the bottom, put instantly back in the oven. Take care to keep the heat steady while baking. Put on plenty of coal to last till the baking is done, before the bread goes into the oven ; never put it on while baking, as it will check the heat, and make heavy streaks in the bread. For small loaves a hotter oven is required than for large ones. Bread made with a " Sponge." 4 quarts flour. " Sponge." A little salt. | teaspoonful soda, dissolved. cupful lard. Warm milk, or water. For four medium-sized loaves use the whole of the " sponge " made according to directions. At seven o'clock at night in summer, and at ten in winter, put four quarts of flour in your bread-pan. Make a hole in the middle and pour in the sponge. Stir into it a part of the flour and let it rise till morning, when it should be light. Then put in the salt, soda and lard, stirring them in with enough warm milk, or water, to enable you to knead it. Knead thoroughly, and set to rise. When light, knead again for ten or fifteen minutes. If you re- peat this, it improves the bread. Then put into pans, set to rise again, and when light, bake as above. This will make four large loaves. Bread. 295 Bread made with Potatoes, 3 medium-sized potatoes. 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 corn meal yeast-cake. Boil the potatoe^ about one o'clock p. M., and mash while hot, saving the water in which they were boiled. Add the salt and flour. When well mixed, stir in enough of the potato water to make a pretty thick batter. If too thin it will not rise. Let it cool, and when it is lukewarm (not cold) add the yeast-cake, dissolved in half a cupful of lukewarm water. (N. B. One yeast-cake will be sufficient in summer, but in winter use one and a half. If the yeast-cakes are not fresh use more in each case.) Beat all together hard, and set to rise (covered) for about five hours in a warm place. By night it will be light and spongy; then stir in enough flour to make a soft dough. Beat well again till it ceases to stick to the spoon, and leave it to rise over night. In the morning knead in the pan. Do not get it stiff. Let it rise again for four or five hours. When light, mix in half a teaspoonful of soda (dissolved in one tablespoon ful hot water). Then knead on the board, and make into loaves. Let them rise about one hour till light. Then bake as above. Makes five large loaves. N. B. In warm weather do not set the first rising or " sponge " till four o'clock P. M. Then the second rising will not begin till nine or ten o'clock, and the bread will not be likely to sour over night. Bread (with Compressed Yeast). 3 quarts flour. li tablespoonfuls salt. 1 tablespoonful sugar. 1 tablespoonful lard or butter (softened). li quarts warm water. 4 cake compressed yeast. Dissolve the yeast in half a cupful of the water. Stir 296 How to Cook Well. together the ingredients in the order given, with a strong spoon, and a strong arm. Beat hard and long, until the dough ceases to stick to the spoon. Cover the pan, and set to rise over night. Early in the morning, stir it down with a spoon. Take out at once, on the bread-board, and with a little flour make it into loaves. Let it stand in the pans in a warm place until light, then bake about one hour, according to the size of the loaf. This will make four loaves, and is very light, spongy bread. It rises faster than other kinds. If set at ten in the morning, it will be ready to bake by five in the afternoon. Bread with Potato Yeast, or Baker's Yeast. {8 cupf uls flour. 1 tablespoonf ul salt. 2 tablespoonf uls sugar (may be omitted). 1 tablespoonful shortening. 3 cupfuls tepid water. 1 cupful "Kaw Potato Yeast" (shaken). Mix, and make like the above. Makes two loaves. Bread Made Quickly. (Miss Carson's Method, Condensed.) 1 cake compressed yeast. 2 cupfuls water, warm. 4 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonf ul salt. The yeast-cake should be about half an inch thick, and two inches long by one wide. Dissolve it in one cup- ful of water at a temperature of about ninety-eight degrees Fahrenheit. Put into a bread-pan with one cupful of the flour, or enough to make a batter which will hold a drop let fall from the spoon. Beat until quite smooth, then cover, and place where a moderate degree of heat will strike it equally. To effect this, turn the pan frequently, and never allow it to get so hot that the hand cannot be borne upon the outside of the bowl with perfect comfort. Bread. 297 Strict attention must be paid to this point, to ensure success. If the heat is too great, it will scald the sponge, and prevent fermentation. In about half an hour, it will be like a thick foam, full of air-bubbles. Then mix with it the salt, dissolved in a second cupful of the lukewarm water, and add about three cupfuls more of flour, or enough to make a soft dough. Put it on a floured board, and knead for about five minutes, or until it no longer sticks to the board or hands, and looks smooth. Divide the dough into two parts, and put into two but- tered Russia-iron bread-pans. Cover with a folded towel, and place the pans where the same gentle heat will strike them, turning them often to ensure an even rising, and taking care not to have them too hot. When the dough has risen to twice its original volume, brush over with melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven. Plain Graham Bread. 2 cupfuls " sponge." 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. 1 tablespoonful salt. Graham flour to make a soft dough. Mix together. Beat hard and set to rise, proceeding as with white bread. Immediately before putting it in the oven, wash over the top of each loaf with water. Bake in a moderate oven about one hour. Makes three loaves. Superior Graham Bread. I quart Graham flour (not sifted). 1 pint white flour. 3 teaspoonfuls salt. 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. 1 tablespoonful butter or lard (softened) . 1 cupful molasses. 2 cupfuls tepid water. 1 cupful yeast (shaken). Mix and make like other bread. Makes two small loaves. 298 How to Cook Well. Boston Brown Bread. 4 tablespoonfuls molasses. 1 pint milk. 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 1 cupful corn meal. 2 cupfuls rye or Graham flour (or better still, one of each). 1 teaspoonful salt. I Mix in this order. With a spoon beat hard. Butter a large tin pail or pudding-boiler. Put in the mixture, filling the pail only half-full. Tie down the cover and set the pail into a pot of boiling water. Do not let the water reach to the top of the pail, as no water must be allowed to get inside. Boil steadily for three hours. See " To Boil Puddings." At the end of three hours uncover the pail, and set it in a warm oven for half an hour to dry. To warm over, see "Boiled Puddings." This is the boasted brown bread of Boston, which is expected on Sundays with baked beans. Steamed Brown Bread. 2 cupfuls Graham flour. 1 cupful corn meal. i cupful sugar. i cupful molasses. i cupful butter (melted) . Mix and beat hard. Brown Bread." 2 eggs (beaten light). 1 teaspoonful salt. 1| cupfuls sour milk. 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). Steam three hours, as in " Boston Stick Bread. (For Luncheon or Dinner.} | cupful yeast (shaken). f i tablespoonful butter. 1 1 cupful milk (scalded). 1 quart flour. li tablespoonfuls sugar. 4 tablespoonful salt. Mix together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Add the milk (with the butter melted in it) when cooled till tepid. Knead well in the pan, adding no more flour than is nec- essary. The dough will seem very stiff, but do not add more wetting. Cover, and rise over night in a warm place. Bread. 299 Tn the morning, when very light, put it on the board. Cut off a piece of dough rather larger than an egg. With the palms of both hands roll it on the board till one foot long and evenly round, having the hands buttered in- stead of floured. Lay the rolls in a greased dripping-pan about one inch apart. Let them rise till light. Then wash the entire surface with melted butter, and bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. This is the proper size for Stick Bread, but I think it is easier to manage, both in making and serving, if each stick is (before rising) about as large around as your mid- dle finger, and twice the length. Then, each one can be rolled in a plate of melted butter before putting it in the pan, w r hich makes the crust very crisp and delicate. Eat fresh, laying one at each person's place at dinner, or on a plate at luncheon. Braid of Bread. Make like Stick Bread, but form larger and longer rolls. Lay three of them side by side. Pinch the top ends together and braid. Lay in a pan, and rise to tw r ice its origi- nal bulk. Bake in a hot oven about twenty-five minutes. REMARKS ON ROLLS, ETC. If you use milk for rolls which are set with yeast, it must be sweet (new if possible). As the long rising is liable to sour the milk, it is a good plan always to scald it, allowing it afterwards to cool down to the right tem- perature before mixing with the yeast. Rolls, even more than bread, should be of a soft consist- ency. If you get in too much flour, they will not be light. When they are light, flour your hands, and knead the dough in the pan a little. Then either flour or but- ter your fingers (the latter is best), and take out a piece of dough the size of a small egg. Work it a few times, doubling the edges into the middle ; shape it nicely, and put it in a deep pan, well greased. Continue in this way 300 How to Cook Well. till the dough is all used up. Leave room in the pan for the rolls to rise to twice their original height, unless set far apart, in which case they will spread sideways. Set them to rise in a warm place till light. If set close together, they will crack apart when light. If far apart, tear a little place at the side ; if spongy inside, they are light. Rolls must be baked in a quick oven. The sudden heat when first put in will cause them to rise well, and they will be more tender than if baked slowly. They should be done in half an hour, or less. Take out in- stantly when done, so that the crust will not harden. If there is danger of the top crust becoming hard before the bottom is done, cover with a thick piece of paper. If this is not sufficient, put a pan of cold water on the oven shelf just over the rolls. Bolls (of Bread-Dough). 1 quart light bread-dough. 1 1 tablespoonf ul sugar. Butter or lard (size of an egg). | When you are making the bread into loaves set apart about one quart of the dough for rolls for tea. Knead it and work in the shortening and sugar. Let it rise till light (about five hours), then set in a cold place till about three hours before tea. Then make out into small rolls (about the size of an egg), and let them rise in the pan till twice their original height. It will probably take two hours. (If you prefer, cut with a biscuit-cutter.) Bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. These are quickly and easily made, and are quite as good as more elaborate rolls. Parker House Rolls. 1 quart flour. 1 tablespoonful lard or but- ter. \ cupful yeast, shaken. 1 tablespoonful sugar. 2 teaspoonf uls salt. 1 cupful boiled milk (cooled). Rub the shortening into the flour. Make a hole in the Bread. 301 middle of the flour, into which put all the other ingredi- ents, previously mixed together, taking care to have the milk tepid. Do not stir these into the flour, but let them stand over night just so. In the morning stir all the in- gredients well together, and knead thoroughly in the pan, adding a little more milk (about half a cupful), and work- ing in only just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to your hands. Let it rise again till about one o'clock, then knead again on the bread-board, and roll it out about half an inch thick. Spread the surface of the whole with melted butter, then sprinkle with flour. Cut out in large rounds (as large as a coffee-cup) and fold each one over nearly in half. In putting them in the pan do not crowd them. Leave them to rise about half an hour. Bake in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Take them out the instant they are done. This makes a drip- ping-pan full. Concord Tea Rolls. 1 pint new milk. 1 large table spoonful butter. 2 quarts flour. 2 teaspoon fuls salt. 1 tablespoonful sugar. 1 cupful yeast, shaken. Heat slightly the first two ingredients in the bread-pan, add the other things in order. Knead in the pan after mixing, taking care not to get the dough too stiff. Cover the pan, and leave it to rise for about five hours ; till very spongy all through. Then mould with buttered hands into nicely shaped long rolls, using a piece of dough the size of a small egg for each one. Set close together with- out crowding, cover the pan with paper and let them rise in a warm place from fifteen to thirty minutes. Wet the tops with milk and sugar just before putting in the oven. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a hot oven, taking care not to let them harden on top. Makes a dripping-pan full. 302 How to Cook Well. Potato Biscuit. 4 large potatoes. 1 quart hot water. A little salt. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Flour. 1 cupful potato yeast (scant) . Pare and boil the potatoes in the water, and when tender, mash them in it. While hot, add the salt and butter, and flour enough to make a very stiff batter, put- ting in the flour gradually. Add the yeast, when the batter is nearly cold (it should be tepid), and beat very hard. Cover and set to rise. When light, add flour to make a soft dough ; only just stiff enough to roll out on the board. Knead it slightly ; roll out and cut into biscuit half an inch thick. Put them in the pan, without touching each other, and set to rise in a warm place. They will rise fast, and be very light. Bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. If you wish them for tea, set them about noon ; if for breakfast, the night before. N. B. Improved by the addition of three eggs, beaten light, and stirred in just after the yeast. Swedish Rolls. 4 cupf uls light bread-dough, i cupful butter. i cupful sugar. 2 eggs (whites only). 1 teaspoonf ul cinnamon, i cupful sugar. Knead together the dough, butter and sugar. Let it stand and rise till very light (probably five hours). Then take out on the bread-board. Cut off a bit of dough as large as an egg. With the palms of the hands roll it out long and thin, and evenly round. It should be about as large around as your finger, and of about two fingers' length. Take hold at both ends, and twist the strip a lit- tle. Lay it out long on the board. Lay a bit of butter on the middle of the strip or roll. Fold over one of the ends (from right to left) on to it, forming a circle ; fold the other end to meet that, turning it from left to right. Bread. 303 You will then have a figure like a printed eight. Do not make them too large, for they will rise larger in baking. Join the ends neatly. Have ready the whites of the eggs (beaten a little) in one plate ; and the cinnamon and sugar (mixed together) in another. As each roll is formed, dip it (on the neat under side) first into the egg, then into the cinnamon and sugar. Put at once into a greased dripping-pan, the sugared side up. Do not lay them very close together ; four to each row will be close enough. Let them rise in the pan till very light (about one hour). Bake in a very hot oven about twenty minutes. This makes thirty-two rolls ; or two dripping-pans full. These rolls are as delicious as they are dainty and pretty. Graham Biscuit. 1 cupful Graham flour. 1 cupful white flour, li teaspoonfuls salt. table spoonful melted butter, cupful sweet milk, cupful yeast. i cupful brown sugar. Mix in this order, warming the milk and butter slightly. After beating hard, set to rise, over night. The next morning add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water. Turn the dough out on the bread- board ; roll it out (adding more flour if necessary) one inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Set them a little apart in the pan, and put in a warm place (covered with a paper) to rise for one hour. Then bake in a rather quick oven about twenty minutes. Buns, 1 pint milk. 1 table spoonful butter. 3 tablespoonfuls yeast. 1 quart flour (more or less) . 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 eggs (beaten light). 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, i cupful Zante currants. Mix the buns in the evening. Warm the milk and butter till tepid. Add the yeast (well shaken), flour and 304 How to Cook Well salt, using only enough flour to make a thick batter. Beat hard, and set to rise (covered) in a warm place. In the morning it should be light ; i. e., bubbly all through. Add, then, the eggs, sugar, currants (washed, dried, and rubbed in flour) and flour enough to enable you to knead the dough in the pan, not on the board. About three cupfuls of flour will be enough. Let it stand till light again (about five hours). Then make into buns with floured hands, using a piece of dough the size of a small egg, for each one. Crowd close together in a deep pan, which will allow them to rise three times their original height. They should rise in the pan for about four hours more, which will bring it nearly to tea-time. When they begin to crack apart from each other, they are ready to bake. Wet the tops with molasses and water, and put at once into a hot oven. Bake about fifteen minutes, covering the top of the pan with a thick paper when half-done. Makes thirty buns. Omit the currants if you choose. Nonpareil Rusk. 1 cupful flour. 1 teaspoouful salt. 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful milk (warmed). 1 cupful potato yeast. i cupful butter (warmed). 3 eggs, reserving the white of one. cupful sugar. teaspoonful soda (dissolved). Mix the rusk in the evening. Beat well together the first five ingredients. Set to rise, covered, in a warm place over night. In the morning add the butter, eggs, (beaten light), the rest of the sugar, and lastly the soda. After that is mixed in, notice whether the dough smells sour. If so, add a little more soda. Add flour enough to make a decidedly stiff batter. Beat hard, and set to rise again for about four hours ; till light. It will then look spongy all through. Turn out on to the bread-board, and roll into a sheet about one inch thick. Add only just enough flour to be Tea. 305 able to handle the dough. Cut into small circles. Set close together in a large deep pan, and leave to rise again with the pan covered with paper. It will probably be as long as two hours before they are light. When they are ready to be baked they will crack apart and look spongy at the sides. Do not let them wait after this; but at once beat the reserved white of the egg slightly, add to it one tablespoonful of sugar, and with this wash over the top of the rusk. Put into a hot oven, and bake a delicate brown, in about fifteen minutes. When half-done cover the top of the pan with paper, so that the crust will not be hard. Baking-Powder Biscuit. {1 quart flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. 3 teaspoonf uls baking powder. 2 tablespoonfuls shortening. 2 cupfuls milk. Measure very accurately. Have the mixing-bowl and ingredients as cold as possible. Sift all the dry things together before putting in the shortening (butter and lard mixed are best^ Take a knife in each hand and chop till the shortening has almost disappeared in the flour, which looks like coarse sand. (This process seems troublesome, but you will soon learn to do it quickly, and the superior lightness and flakiness of the biscuit will be an ample reward.) Lastly stir in the milk. With some brands of flour more or less milk may be needed than is given in the receipt. You ought to make the dough as soft as possible to handle. Turn out on a bread-board and roll out as quickly and lightly as possible, barely touching with your hands. Just as soon as the dough will hold together, cut into rounds one inch thick ; put into a warm buttered pan and bake at once in a hot oven, not more than ten or fifteen 306 How to Cook Well minutes. Eat while hot; but they are also very good cold. N. B. If you have pastry flour, use that in preference to any other for these biscuit. One teaspoonful of soda and two of cream of tartar may be substituted for baking-pow- der. Makes a dripping-pan two thirds full. Currant Biscuit. 1 quart flour. 4 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 table spoonfuls sugar. A little nutmeg. Butter size of a large egg. cupful Zante currants. Milk to make a soft dough (about one pint.) Mix like " Baking-Powder Biscuit," reserving a little of the flour in which to rub the currants. These should be put in just before the milk. Cut out with an oval cutter if you have one, and bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. Maryland Biscuit. 2 quarts flour. 4 teaspoonfuls salt. 4 flat tablespoonf uls lard. Water only just enough to make a very stiff dough. Chop the shortening into the salted flour ; stir in the water gradually so as not to get in too much. Knead the dough hard for half an hour ; until it is pliable. Then beat it with the rolling-pin till the dough cracks loudly, when a piece is suddenly pulled off. It will take about one hour. Then form with the hand into round balls and pat them down till about half an inch thick. Prick the tops with a fork, and bake at once in a very hot oven for Bread. 307 twenty minutes. On no account shorten the process of kneading and pounding, as the success of the biscuit depends upon this. Wafers or Unleavened Biscuit. Dry in a warm place two quarts of flour for one hour before you use it. Add then about one and a half tea- spoonfuls salt, and water enough to form a stiff dough. Roll it out very thin, hardly thicker than letter-paper. Cut into large rounds with a saucer; lay them a little apart in a cookey-pan, prick with a fork, and bake five minutes in a very hot oven. Much relished by invalids, and nice to serve with oysters. Crackers. 2 pounds light bread-dough. I i pound flour. 6 ounces butter (softened). | Work the butter and flour into the dough till perfectly smooth. Roll out on a bread-board ; pound for a long time with a rolling-pin, rolling it out several times. Roll out finally rather thin (about as thick as for cookies), and cut into crackers with a biscuit-cutter or something smaller. Prick the top of the crackers and set them to rise in a shallow baking-pan till light. Bake in a very hot oven. When done break them apart, and put them in the top oven or heater to dry. USES FOR PIECES OF BREAD AND CRUMBS. REMARKS. I will preface these remarks by saying that by a little judicious management there is no need to have an accu- mulation of broken bread. In the first place, fresh bread should not be baked till the old is very nearly gone. (Always reserve a little of the old for the sake of the 308 How to Cook Well. children, who should not be allowed to eat that which is freshly baked.) Then, in cutting bread for the table, do not cut more than will probably be eaten. A good way to do in a small family is to have but one plate of sliced bread on the table, and to have the loaf on also, on one of the pretty wooden plates which come for the purpose ; then more can be cut as it is needed. But when pieces are left over, on no account allow them to be wasted. If you cannot use them while fresh, put them at once into a pail kept always standing in the heater of your stove (or some other dry warm place) for this purpose. Throw also into the bread-crumb-pail any crumbs you may have, or clean broken bread left from table. (Do not think these things too trifling to be attended to. After slicing bread for tea, there will often be as much as half a cupful of crumbs left on the board, and it is as easy to scrape them into a pail as into the fire.) Let all dry out together, and once a week or oftener, roll them with a rolling-pin as fine as flour, or nearly so. Put them away in a tin box, covered, and keep them always ready for anything requiring bread- crumbs. Remember, that for anything that needs wetting, such as a bread pudding, more is required to soak these dried crumbs than fresh ones. Pieces of bread dried at once in the way above de- scribed will never become mouldy, however long they may be kept. Beyond will be found a list of things to choose from, when there is a quantity of bread to be used up. The above remarks on economy refer only to bread which is good. Heavy, Slack-baked or Sour Bread requires a different treatment. The first is hopeless. Slack-baked bread too is unwholesome ; but if only slightly so, it can be improved by cutting it into thick slices, and spreading it out on tins in a moderate oven for several hours. Turn Bread. 309 it, and when broWn on both sides treat like "Dipped- Toast," or serve dry with butter. Sour bread is simply horrible. Do not on any account practise economy in this case. Lavishly waste the whole baking, unless you have a chance to dispose of it on a beggar whose palate may not be as sensitive as your own. If obliged to eat it, however, you can try to improve it, by making it into Dipped and Milk Toast, and dissolving a little soda in the water or milk. Use part of it for a bread pudding, and add soda. To Freshen Stale Bread. Dip the loaf (or slices of bread or rolls) into cold water. Do not let it soak, but simply become wet. Lay it on a pan in a hot oven till the moisture is absorbed, and the bread is hot. Eat at once, for it will not keep after being treated in this way. Stale corn-bread, gems, muffins and cake may be suc- cessfully freshened in the same way. Bread Boiled in Molasses. Cut thin slices of stale bread, and butter them. Lay them in a frying-pan and pour over them enough molasses to cover well. When the molasses has boiled a few min- utes, serve very hot. This is wholesome for children in winter, and furnishes a simple dessert for them. A List of Uses for Pieces of Bread. Toast (of all kinds). Toast Sandwiches. Toast under Hash. [Chicken. Toast under Warmed-over Toast under Eggs. " " Welsh Rarebit. " " Oysters. " " Canned Salmon. Croutons for Soup. Bread with Sausages. Bread Panada. Bread and Milk. Bread Boiled in Molasses. Bread Fritters. Bread Pudding. Apple or Berry Charlotte. Pan Dowdy. Bread and Butter Pudding. Queen's Toast. Spanish Toast. Lemon Toast. Bread Pates. 310 How to Cook Well. A List of Uses Bread Pudding. Spiced Bread Pudding. Francateili Pudding. Hasting' s Pudding. Canned Salmon, Baked. Plum Pudding. Brown Betty. Bread Griddle Cakes. Bread Sauce. Stuffing for Poultry. *' " Beef a la mode. " " Veal. " " Mock Duck. " " Stuffed Beefsteak. " " Fish. for Bread-Crumbs. Stuffing for Egg-plant. " " Stuffed Tomatoes. Fried Mutton Chops. Fried Oysters. Croquettes. Devilled Lobster or Crab. Escaloped Oysters. Escaloped Clams. Escaloped Tomatoes. To Thicken Tomatoes. Escaloped Eggs and Meat. Baked Eggs a la Creme. French Omelet. Chicken Panada. Jellied Veal. TOAST, REMARKS. Dry Toast is the foundation for every other kind, therefore read over the directions for that before trying any other. Many persons think that nothing is easier than to make a good slice of toast, but a piece of bread cut anyhow, merely warmed, over any kind of a fire, and brought to a sick person on a cold plate, will hardly tempt his appetite. Dry Toast. Use bread at least a day old. Cut the slices evenly, and rather thick. Put a plate into the heater to warm. See that there are good hot coals on the top of your fire. If not, rake off the dull ones from the top. Have the bread all ready in a toaster or on the end of a fork. Hold it as close to the coals as possible without its burning. As soon as delicately browned on one side, turn on the other. Put it instantly on a hot plate, cover with a nap- kin and eat at once. If it stands long, covered, it will Bread. 311 become steamed. Therefore, do not make the toast for tea till everything else is ready. If it is for a sick person, do not try to save trouble by putting the butter on one side of the same plate with the toast. Either butter the slice delicately before covering, or take the butter on a cold butter-plate. In making toast for tea it is best not to begin to make it till the family are assembled, for it is an entirely erroneous idea that toast eaten cold is more wholesome than that which is hot. Boston Brown-Bread when stale, makes good toast, and is delicious served with oysters. Dipped Toast. Have the tea-kettle boiling. Make toast as above. Quickly dip each slice into a pan of boiling water. Do not let it soak, but remove as soon as every part is wet. Sprinkle on a little salt, and butter judiciously / not lay- ing lamps of butter in the middle of the slices and leav- ing the crusts dry. Pile on a hot plate, cover and eat hot. Some persons merely pour hot water over the bread, but this is apt to leave the crusts hard while the centre is soggy. Milk Toast. 1 quart milk. 2 tablespoonf uls butter. 3 tablespoonf uls flour or corn- starch. 1 tcaspoonful salt. Put the milk to boil in a double-boiler (to prevent it from scorching). When it begins to boil, stir in the butter cut into small pieces ; do not stop stirring till all is melted. Add the salt, and the flour (previously rubbed smooth in a little cold milk). Stir again while it thickens. Then set it back on the stove to keep hot, but not boil, till the toast is ready. (See Dry Toast.) Lay the slices of toast in a deep dish, taking care to soften the crusts first with boiling water. Pour over each slice plenty of the thick- ened milk. Serve covered. 312 How to Cook Well. What is left over will make a good bread-pudding by adding milk, eggs, sugar and seasoning. Cracker Milk Toast. Exactly like " Milk Toast," substituting crackers for bread. The crackers should stand soaking in salted boil- ing water for a few minutes after being toasted. This is a very appetizing dish and convenient if the supply of bread is short. The best crackers to use are Boston or Water crackers. Serve covered. Use what is left over for a pudding, as above. Cream Toast. This is particularly delicious. Heat cream to the boil- ing point, setting it within a kettle of boiling water to prevent its curdling or scorching. Add a sprinkling of salt. Make "Dry Toast." Put the slices in a deep dish, pouring plenty of the cream over each one, and serve covered. (Nice for an invalid.) Queen's Toast. Cut rather thick slices of bread (not fresh). Have ready a tablespoonful of hot lard in a frying-pan. Fry the bread quickly by putting the pan over the coals. Dip each slice as soon as done, into a pan of boiling water (to take out the grease), remove jnstantly, and pile on a hot plate. Serve at once, either for tea or dessert, with hot " Wine Sauce " poured over, or simply with butter and cinnamon and sugar. Spanish Toast. Cut thick slices of bread (not fresh). Then prepare the following mixture, 1 pint milk. I 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 2 eggs, beaten. I teaspoonful salt (nearly). Dip the slices in this for a moment. Then lay them in a frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of hot lard. Fry Yeast. 813 quickly over the coals. Pile on a hot plate and serve for tea or dessert, with "Wine Sauce," or with butter and cinnamon and sugar. Lemon Toast. Make " Spanish Toast." Put into a deep dish, wetting each slice with the following sauce, and pouring the rest over the whole. Sauce. 3 eggs (whites only). I 1 lemon (juice only), i cupful white sugar. I 1 cupful boiling water. Beat the eggs stiff, add sugar, lemon-juice and boiling water. Serve hot for tea or dessert, letting each person sprinkle the toast with sugar. YEAST. REMARKS. No directions are here given for making new yeast without old yeast as an ingredient. Therefore in making it be sure that you have good lively yeast to raise it with. Borrow from a reliable neighbor if possible, the first time ; and afterwards always save over a cupful of your own to raise the next, as baker's yeast is very apt to be sour. Do not make more yeast at one time than is given in the receipts, for it will sour if kept too long. It is well to make it fresh every six weeks. Care should be taken to have the mixture of exactly the right temperature when the old yeast is put into that which you are making. It must not be either hot or cold, but between the two. Never stir yeast with anything but a wooden or silver spoon, for an iron one will turn it dark-colored. Set it to rise, covered over, in a decidedly warm place where there is no draught. It should rise rather fast, and on that account it is best to make it in the morning, as the house 314 How to Cook Well is usually warmer through the day-time than at night, If it does not rise sufficiently during the time given in the receipts, stir it up once or twice from the bottom. When it is light enough to bottle, it will have a thick foam on top, and will be bubbly all through. Be sure that the bottles (or jars) are perfectly sweet. They should be scalded while the yeast is rising, and set together in a large pan or waiter, so that if any runs over the top of the bottles (as it may a few hours after, if you get them too full, or if very light) it will not make a mess on the cellar shelf. (Preserve jars or bottles of the size of whiskey bottles are preferable to a jug for keeping yeast, as but one bottle at a time need be uncorked, whereas, with a jug, the whole quantity of yeast is exposed to the air every time any is drawn off.) Stir the yeast rapidly before pouring through a funnel into the bottles, which should only be filled two thirds full. Cork tightly, with perfectly clean corks, and set at once in a cold place. Every time you want yeast for setting bread, carry your cup or whatever it is to be measured in, to the cel- lar, and pour out the yeast there, first shaking it hard, till it froths. This is a better plan than to take the yeast to the warm kitchen, where it may sour, if left but so short a time as half an hour. Always stir up the yeast the moment before you put it into the bread. A novice will often be puzzled to tell whether yeast is good or not, on account of the peculiar odor which accompanies any fermentation. It will perhaps seem sour when it is in reality perfectly good. If, however, sour bread is the result, throw away all the remaining yeast, and make fresh ; using fresh yeast to set it with. Do not, as some will advise, attempt to make it right by the use of soda. It is too doubtful an experiment, and it is less wasteful to throw away a gallon of yeast than a whole " baking " of bread. Yeast. 315 Raw Potato Yeast. 3 large potatoes. 3 pints boiling water. cupful white sugar. 1 cupful yeast well shaken. 1 large tablespoonful salt. Peel the potatoes, and put them to soak in cold water till the kettle boils. Then grate one potato, in a large earthen dish, pour over it at once one pint boiling water (to cook the potato) ; grate the next, and pour on the next pint of water ; do the same with the third. (If you grate them all, before pouring on the water, they may turn dark.) Stir quickly with a wooden or silver spoon. Mix in thoroughly the salt and sugar. Leave it to be- come lukewarm (not cold). Then put in the yeast, stir it well, and leave to rise in a warm place four or five hours. When light and ready to bottle, it will be covered with a thick foam. Stir it up and bottle it. This is the most quickly and easily made of any kind of yeast and makes delicious bread. Yeast with Hops. 4 pounds potatoes (pared and cut up). 4 quarts water. 1 handful fresh hops. 1 cupful sugar. 1 tablespoonful ginger. yeast-cakes. tablespoonfuls tepid water. u 1 cupful salt. Boil the potatoes in three quarts of the water, and pass them through the colander with the water. Boil the hops ten minutes in one quart of water, and strain the water on the potatoes. Add the salt, sugar and ginger. The whole quantity should measure five quarts; if lacking, add tepid water. When lukewarm, add the yeast-cakes, mixed smooth in the four tablespoonfuls water. Keep in a warm place for a day and a night. When light it will be foamy on top. Then bottle, cork, and keep in a cool, dry cellar. It will keep for a number of weeks. After having made it once, save a cupful to raise the next with, instead of yeast-ca&es. 316 now to CooJc Well " Sponge." a corn meal yeast cake. Flour to make a thick batter. 1 quart tepid water. In winter, mix the sponge at one or two o'clock ; in summer, at four o'clock. In winter, use two thirds (or more) of a yeast cake. Soak the yeast cake for one hour in a little warm water, enough to cover it. Then add the quart of water, and beat in flour, until, when the batter is poured from the spoon into that which is in the bowl, it will not mix with it, but will lie in drops on the top. Set in a warm place, covered, to rise for about five hours. It will then be ready to use to set bread. If not wanted at once, it will keep a day or two in a cold place, if covered tight. This will raise four medium-sized loaves of bread. CAKE. REMARKS ON CAKE. Before you begin to mix cake, grease the tins, measure out all the necessary ingredients, and see that you have a good fire ; for cake should not be allowed to stand either during the process of mixing or when ready for the oven. Cake is less liable to stick to the pans if they are greased with lard (of course very little should be used), but some pre- fer to use butter. Several thicknesses of paper (greased) should be laid in the bottom of pans for fruit cake, as this is more liable to burn than other kinds. To Mix Cake, the usual rule is, first rub the butter and sugar together with a wooden spoon or potato-masher till they look soft and creamy and are several shades lighter in color than when you began. This process is facilitated by having the mixing-bowl slightly warm ; but on no account melt the butter. Upon this faithful " creaming " Cake. 317 of the butter and sugar, depends chiefly the success of the cake. To the butter and sugar add the eggs, which will beat light much more quickly if they are cold. Break each into a cup by itself before adding it to the rest, for one bad egg would spoil all. If necessary to separate the yolks from the whites, be careful in doing it ; for the least particle of yolk would prevent the whites from being beaten stiff. Beat them in a platter with long strokes from a silver fork. Do not stop beating until they are stiff ; if you do they will liquify, and cannot afterward be beaten light. Yolks should be beaten till frothy. Next, put in the milk. Never use fresh and stale milk in the same cake ; it would make it heavy. Measure the soda and cream of tartar carefully. (A little too much soda would affect the whole cake disagreeably.) Dissolve the former in a teaspoonful or so of warm water and mix with the milk before adding it to the cake. The cream of tartar should be stirred through the flour(or a part of it) and this beaten in last. Of course the flour must be sifted before it is measured. Beat all well together. Then pour into the pans, which should be filled only two thirds full, leaving room for the cake to rise. To Bake Cake. Most cake requires a moderately hot oven to make it rise up well. Fruit cake, however, should be put into a slow oven, as it needs longer baking and is apt to burn. For all cake the heat should be well kept up ; if allowed to decrease the loaves will be doughy inside, or at least, heavy. Sponge cake, in particular, needs a steady heat. Jelly-cake and all layer-cakes need a hot oven, and are easier for a novice to bake than any other kind. They bake quickly; therefore watch care, fully, to see that they do not burn around the edges. Except with layer-cakes, do not open the oven door till the end of ten minutes; it might chill the cake while 318 How to CooTc Well rising, which is the most critical time. When you do look in the oven, take care that no cold draught of air from an open window or door strikes in, and do not slam the oven door when you shut it, or jar the pans by mov- ing them unnecessarily. To tell when Cake is done, run a clean broom straw quickly down into the thickest part of the cake; if it comes up moist the cake is not yet done, but if dry, it is time to take it out. Do this carefully, putting the pan down gently in a place where no draught will strike it. Take it out of the pan while warm, not hot, What to do in case of failure. If the cake is heavy, nothing can be done. If burned on the bottom and the rest is good, frost on the bottom. If the whole outside is burned, cut out the good parts to use for " Tipsy Par- son," or if you can cut into good slices do so, and frost each slice, laying a bit of candied orange (or other fruit) or half an English walnut in the centre. Old-Fashioned Frosting. To the white of each egg allow one scant cupful of pul- verized sugar. Have the eggs as cold as possible, in a large platter. Do not beat them alone, but begin by beating half the sugar with them, adding the rest by degrees. Beat about half an hour in a cold place, or till the mixture becomes stiff. Then stir in a little extract or lemon-juice; the latter is nicest. As soon as stiff, spread over the cake, which should be previously dredged with a little flour to prevent the butter in the cake from discolor- ing the frosting. Put a large spoonful of frosting in the centre of the cake, and spread it smoothly with a knife dipped in hot water to prevent its sticking. When all is done set the cake in a cool place for half an hour to harden. N. B. If the top is not a good shape, frost the bottom of the cake. Allow the whites of two eggs to frost one large loaf. Cake. 319 Boiled Frosting. f 1 cupful granulated sugar. \ 10 tablespoonfuls boiling water. 1 egg, white only. Boil the sugar and water together, without stirring, till it hardens when dropped in cold water (try it as soon as the bubbles become large). Have ready the white of the egg, well beaten. Pour the hot sugar on it, and beat till stiff enough to ice the cake. Enough for one large loaf. Isinglass Frosting. (No Egg.) {1 sheet Russia Isinglass. 1 small cupful boiling water. 2 pounds pulverized sugar. Dissolve the isinglass in the water, then stir in the sugar. Beat well and pour over the cake. Gelatine Frosting. (No Egg.) f 1 tablespoonful Cox's gelatine. I i cupful boiling water (nearly). 4 cupful* pulverized sugar (nearly). 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar (dry). Soak and dissolve the gelatine. Beat in sugar till stiff. Add the cream of tartar. Then pour over the cake. Enough for two very large loaves. This is a very smooth, pretty frosting. It can be made in a few minutes, and hardens immediately on the cake. To Color Frosting. Pink. A little red jelly or preserve-juice, cranberry syrup or cochineal, stirred into ordinary frosting, colors a pretty pink. Yellow. Cut an orange in halves, and soak the yellow part of the rind in the juice. Put in a thin muslin bag and squeeze it through the muslin. The juice will be colored by the rind. Stir it into ordinary frosting. 320 How to Cook Well The whitest icing is made by adding lemon juice to the egg and sugar. Chocolate Frosting. 6 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. 1 cupful line sugar. 2 eggs, whites only. Beat the ingredients together, and spread the frosting on when the cake is hot. If you like, you can add one teaspoonf ul vanilla extract to the above. Fancy Frosting, Chopped figs, raisins, or citron (sliced) beaten in with ordinary frosting makes a pleasant variety. Almonds or English walnuts broken in pieces are nice, too ; or break neatly in halves, and lay on the top. Plain frosting sprinkled with red sugar is pretty. If for a child's birth- day-cake, sprinkle with tiny red seed-candies. Orange Frosting, 2 eggs, whites only. 4 pound or 2 cupf uls pulverized sugar. 1 large orange, juice only. Beat the whites of the eggs with the sugar, adding it by degrees, and beat until stiff; then stir in the orange- juice. Cocoanut Frosting, 1 egg, white only. I 3 tablespoonfuls grated cocoa- 1 cupful sugar. nut. Proceed as with " Orange Frosting." Enough for one loaf. FILLING FOR CAKE. Lemon Filling (No. 1). ( 3 eggs. t 2 cupf uls sugar. 2 lemons. Butter size of an egg. Beat eggs and sugar together, add grated peel and juice of the lemons. Put in the butter and stir it over a Cake. 321 slow fire (the pan being set into another of boiling water), until the mixture thickens. Spread between cakes. No. 2. i cupful butter. I 3 eggs, yolks only. 1 cupful sugar. I 2 lemons. Put all together over the fire, using both grated rind and juice of the lemons. Set the pan containing it within another of boiling water, and stir till it thickens. When perfectly cold, spread between layers of cake slightly warm. This is nice with "White Cake." This is enough for six layers. No. 3. 1 cupful boiling water. 1 cupful sugar. ( 4 teaspoonfuls cornstarch. 2 tablespoonfuls cold water. 1 lemon. 2 eggs. Rub the cornstarch smooth in the cold water, and stir it into the boiling water, on the stove. Boil till it begins to thicken. Add the sugar, the juice and rind of the lemon, and the eggs, well-beaten. Stir every minute till quite thick. When cold, spread between layers of cake. Orange Filling. 1 orange. 2 tablespoonfuls. flour. 1 cupful boiling water. 1 egg (beaten light). 1 cupful sugar. Grate half the rind of the orange. Squeeze the juice. Rub the flour smooth in this. Add the, sugar and water. Put all together over the fire within a pan of boiling water. Boil till the flour is cooked. Then add the egg, stirring constantly for a few minutes. Then remove and cool it before spreading over layers of cake. Apple Filling (no Egg). 2 apples, grated. 1 lemon. 1 cupful sugar. Put all together in a small sauce-pan, using both rind and juice of the lemon, and set on the stove. 322 How to Cook Well. When it begins to boil, stir occasionally. When it thickens, which it should do in about ten minutes, remove from the fire. When cold, spread on layers of cake. This is only enough for one thick layer. Cocoanut Filling. f l&cupfuls sugar. I cupful water. 2 eggs, whites only. 1 cupful grated cocoanut. Boil sugar and water without stirring, until thick. Remove, and pour into a large dish. Add gradually the eggs, beaten stiff. Beat all together until cold, then mix in the cocoanut. Spread this between layers of cake, and on the top ; then sprinkle some dry cocoanut on top of all. Plain Jelly-Cake. Mix like "Feather Cake." Fill jelly-cake tins only half-full and bake in a very hot oven about ten minutes taking care not to let the edges harden. When cold, spread each layer thickly with jelly. Pile neatly on a plate, and sift pulverized sugar over the top. Eat fresh. Makes one loaf of five layers. Jelly Cake Without Eggs. f 1 cupful sugar. v cupful butter (scant). f 4 cupful milk. I i teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. \ cupful cold water. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. Flavor to taste. Mix in order, and bake about ten minutes in jelly-cake tins in a very hot oven. Makes one large loaf of five 'layers. Eat fresh. This is nice with lemon or apple filling. A useful receipt when eggs are scarce. Gold and Silver Jelly-Cake. Make " Gold " and " Silver " Cake. Bake and proceed as with "Plain Jelly-Cake." Pile the layers in alterna- ting colors. Makes a very handsome cake. Cake. 323 Tip-Top Jelly-Cake. 3 eggs (yolks and whites sep- arate). 14 cupfuls sugar. 4 cupful butter (softened). f 4 cupful milk. I 4 teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 1 2 cupfuls flour. Beat yolks of the eggs and the sugar together. Then add butter, milk and soda. Beat the whites stiff, and mix them in alternately with the flour (with the cream of tartar mixed through it). Beat all together and pro- ceed as with "Plain Jelly-Cake." Makes two jelly-cakes, of four layers each. White Mountain Cake. f 1 cupful butter. 1 2 cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs (beaten light). ( 1 cupful milk. ( 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. ( 2 teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar. ( 34 cupfuls flour. Mix in this order. Beat hard. Bake in jelly-cake tins, for ten minutes in a hot oven. Before it becomes entirely cold, spread each layer with frosting (" Isinglass Frosting" is nicest for this), and cover the top with frost- ing. Eat fresh. Makes two loaves, of four layers each. To vary this, use two kinds of " Fancy Frosting " ; one with nuts, and one with chopped raisins. Chocolate Cake. (No. 1.) f 1 cupful butter. I 2 cupfuls sugar. 5 eggs (leaving out whites of three). f 1 cupful milk. I 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. f 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 1 34 cupfuls flour. Mix in order, first beating the eggs light. Bake like 324 How to Cook Well. " Plain Jelly-Cake," in seven or eight layers. When cool spread with the following Filling for Four Layers. f 3 eggs (whites only) . I li cupfuls sugar. 6 tablespoonf uls grated chocolate. 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Beat eggs and sugar together till stiff ; then add the chocolate and vanilla. You can make two different kinds of cake from this receipt, by filling the four remaining layers with " Apple Filling" (or any other kind). Or if you wish a thicker chocolate cake, make twice the quantity of filling, as above ; this is better than baking thicker layers. No. 2. 2 cupfuls sugar. f 3 cupfuls flour. 2 large tablespoonf uls butter. 3 eggs (whites only). 1 cupful milk. 3 teaspoonf uls baking-pow- der, cupful grated chocolate. Mix in order, first beating the eggs light and reserving the chocolate. Put half of the batter in two pans. To the remaining half add the chocolate, and put this in two pans. Bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. When done, spread each layer with chocolate icing or anything you may prefer. Pile up the layers, dark and light alternately. A nice filling for this is plain cornstarch blanc mange, made soft, and flavored with vanilla. Orange Cake (No 1). Make " Old-Fashioned Sponge Cake," substituting oranges for the lemons. Bake in jelly-cake tins about ten minutes in a very hot oven; and when cool spread each layer with "Orange Frosting." Pile up and frost the top. Another Way is to peel and slice oranges and remove the seeds. Cut into small bits and lay on each layer of cake just before you frost it. Cake. 325 No. 2. 5 eggs, reserving whites of 3. 2 cupfuls sugar. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspooonf ul cream of tar- tar. cupful cold water. A little salt. 1 orange, juice and grated rind. i teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. Beat stiff the whites of the eggs ; add the sugar. When thoroughly mixed, put in the yolks beaten light. Then add the flour, with the cream of tartar mixed through it; and the other ingredients in order. Bake about ten minutes in a hot oven in jelly-cake tins. While still warm, spread each layer with " Orange Frost- ing." This makes one large loaf of five layers. Lemon Layer Cake. Make like " Orange Cake No. 2," substituting a lemon for the orange, and using "Lemon Filling." Or bake like "White Cake," split into three sheets when cold, and fill with "Lemon Filling No. 2." The latter makes a very pretty looking cake. Cocoanut Cake. f 2 cupfuls sugar. I i cupful butter. 2 eggs (beaten light). 3 cupfuls flour. 2 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- der. 1 cupful milk. Mix in order. Bake like " Plain Jelly-Cake." Spread each layer with " Cocoanut Filling." Variety Cake. Make White or Snow Cake. Bake in layers as for jelly-cake ; spread the layers with pink frosting. Or color part of the batter pink, with a little red preserve- syrup, and pile the pink and white layers alternately, putting plain frosting between and on top. 326 How to Cook Well. Charlotte Russe Cake. Make " Quick Sponge Cake." Bake it as Jelly-Cake, and spread each layer when cold with the following Filling. 1 cupful rich cream. I cupful pulverized sugar, i teaspoonf ul vanilla. Beat all together till smooth. Sift powdered sugar over the top of the cake. Eat fresh. Makes three layers. Marble Layer Cake. 2 cupfuls sugar. cupful butter. 3 eggs. 3 cupfuls flour, li teaspoonf uls baking-pow- der. 1 cupful milk. Mix in order. Bake half the mixture in two jelly-cake pans. To the remainder add 1 cupful raisins (chopped). 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful cloves. A little grated nutmeg. 1 tablespoonful molasses. Bake this in two pans. Spread the layers with frost- ing (or jelly) and pile up alternately. Rolled Jelly-Cake. Make " Cheap Sponge Cake," but beat it after the flour is in, to make it tough. When ready to bake, put into a large, square shallow pan (a dripping-pan w T ill do) which must be very thickly buttered. This is to prevent any difficulty in turning it out of the pan without breaking. Be sure to have the mixture evenly spread in the pan, but very thinly. Put at once into a very hot oven and bake evenly, taking care not to let it harden around the edges. This can be prevented by laying a thick paper over the top. Have the paper large enough to be supported by the sides of the pan, so that it will not touch the batter. Do not open the oven door until it has been in five minutes. Spread on a table a clean cloth, and when the Cake. 327 cake is done, which should be in ten minutes, slip it out of the pan, bottom side up, on to the cloth. Spread it qaickly while still hot with nearly one cupful of jelly, or raspberry jam ; beginning at the narrow end, roll it up into a compact round roll. All this must be done very rapidly or the cake will cool too much to roll. This is very quickly made. Caramel frosting (see " Car- amel Loaf") may be used instead of jelly. (3 cupfuls flour. 3 teaspoonf uls baking-pow- der. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Lincoln Cake. 2 cupfuls sugar, i cupful butter. 3 eggs (beaten light). 1 cupful milk. Mix in order, and beat a long time. Bake in a moder- ate oven about three quarters of an hour. Two large loaves. 1, 2, 3, 4 Cake. 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- tar. 3 cupfuls flour. / 1 cupful butter. \ 2 cupfuls sugar. 4 eggs, beaten light, f 1 cupful milk. \ 1 teaspoonful soda. lemon, juice only (may be omitted). Mix in order, substituting any flavoring you wish for the lemon. Bake in a moderately hot oven about twenty- five minutes. Makes two medium-sized loaves. (To make it rich, leave out part of the milk.) Cup Cake. f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tar- \ tar. 6 cupfuls flour. f l 1 1 3 cupfuls sugar, li cupfuls butter. 3 eggs, beaten light, li cupfuls milk, teaspoonful soda. A little nutmeg. 1 wineglassf ul wine or brandy. Mix in order, beat hard, and bake in a moderately hot oven. Makes three loaves. 328 How to Cook Well Feather Cake. f 1 cupful sugar. \ 2 tablespoonf uls butter, melted. 1 egg, beaten light, f i cupful milk. I teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 2 cupfuls flour. lemon, juice only (may be omitted or any extract used in place) . Mix in order. Beat hard, and bake in one loaf in a moderate oven. Eat fresh. This plain cake may be improved by adding spices to a part of the mixture, and baking like Marble Cake." White Cake. f 1 cupful butter. 1 2 cupfuls sugar. 3 eggs, whites only, beaten well, f 1 cupful milk. X I teaspoouf ul soda, f li teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. 1 3i cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonful almond extract. Mix in the above order, beat hard, and bake in two loaves in a moderate oven. The yolks of the eggs may be used for " Salad Dress- ing," or for " Cornstarch Custard." Makes two loaves. Snow Cake. / 2 cupfuls sugar. 1 1 cupful butter. 6 eggs (whites only). 1 cupful milk. f2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 1 2 cupfuls flour. cupful cornstarch (dry). 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Mix in order. Beat hard, put in two pans, and bake carefully in a moderately hot oven. Cake. 329 Delicate Cake. cupfuls sugar, cupful butter, eggs (whites only), cupful milk, teaspoonful soda. i; teaspoonful cream of tar- tar. cupful cornstarch. cupfuls flour. Flavoring to taste. Mix in order. Beat hard, and bake in a moderate oven, keeping the heat steady. This is nice with "Chocolate Frosting." (The yolks of the eggs may be used for custard.) Cream Cake. (" Choice Receipts") f 1 cupful rich cream. 1 1 cupful sugar. 1 egg. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. i teaspoonful soda. i teaspoonful salt. i teaspoonful bitter almond flavoring. Stir the cream and sugar well together, then beat in the egg. Put the cream of tartar, dry soda and salt into the flour, mix in well, and stir into the cream, sugar and egg. Add flavoring. Bake in one loaf. To be eaten when fresh. Spice Cake. 1 cupful butter. 2 cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs, beaten light. 1 cupful sour milk, i teaspoonful soda. 3 cupfuls flour, li cupfuls raisins. 1 teaspoonful cloves. 2 teaspoonf uls cinnamon. Mace and allspice if you like. Mix in order, dredging a little of the flour over the raisins, before adding them. Beat well, and bake in a slow oven for one hour. Makes one large loaf. 330 How to CooJc Well. Pound Cake. 1 pound butter. 1 pound sugar. 6 eggs, beaten light. 1 pound flour. 1 wineglassf til brandy or wine. A little rose water. Cream the butter and sugar very thoroughly. Bent the yolks and whites separately, and add the yolks. Stir in the flour alternately with the whites of the eggs, and add the brandy and rose water. The success of this cake depends upon thorough mix- ing before the flour is put in. Bake in a moderate oven, keeping the heat steady. Sandusky Cake. (Mrs. Cornelius.) f 1 cupful butter. 1 2 cupf uls sugar. f 1 cupful milk. 1 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 4 eggs, yolks and whites separate, f 2 teaspoonf uls cream of tartar. 1 3i cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonful flavoring. Cream the butter and sugar, and add the milk and soda. Beat the yolks of the eggs (one at a time), and add them. Then beat the whites stiff, and stir them in alternately with the flour, through which the cream of tartar has been mixed. Flavor, and beat a long time. Bake in a moderately hot oven. Makes two loaves. This resembles Pound Cake. Grandpa's Cake. / 3 cupfuls sugar. \ 1 cupful butter. 4 eggs (yolks and whites separate). 1 small nutmeg, grated. ( li cupfuls sour milk. ( 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 5 cupfuls flour. 1 heaping cupful raisins or currants. Cake. 331 Rub butter and sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs light, leaving out, if you choose, the whites of two for Frosting. Add the eggs, nutmeg, milk and soda. Stir in four cup- fuls of the flour. Rub the raisins in the remaining flour and put them in. Beat well. Bake about one hour in a moderate oven. Makes two large loaves and a small one. Use sweet milk, if you choose. In this case add two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Chopped figs may be used instead of raisins. Marble Cake. Light. f cupful butter. 1 Ik cupfuls white sugar. 4 eggs, (whites only). 4 cupful milk. 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. ( 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 24 cupfuls flour. Dark. {4 cupful butter. 4 cupful molasses. 1 cupful brown sugar. 4 eggs (yolks only.) j 4 cupful milk. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 3 cupfuls flour (nearly). 1 teaspoonful allspice. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg. < 4 teaspoouf ul soda, dissolved. 4 teaspoonful cloves. Mix each kind in order, beating the eggs light. First put a layer of light cake, then of dark, and so on. Bake in a moderate oven, taking care that it does not burn. Makes two large loaves. Huckleberry Cake. Make like " Lincoln Cake." The last thing before baking, dredge one pint of huckleberries with one cupful of flour and stir them in. 332 How to CooJc Well. Gold Cake. 1 cupful sugar. | cupful butter. 8 eggs, yolks only. cupful milk. h teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. 2 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonf ul vanilla. Mix in order. Bake in a moderately hot oven. Make "Silver Cake" the same day, or see "To Use the Whites of Eggs." Silver Cake. f 2 cupfuls white sugar. 1 4 cupful butter. 8 eggs (whites only). ( 2i cupfuls flour. 1 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. {I cupful milk. teaspoonf ul soda. A little rose water. Cream the butter and sugar, and mix in order. Bake in a moderately hot oven. Make " Gold Cake " the same day, or, see " To Use the Yolks of Eggs." x Washington Cake. ( 1 cupful butter. ( 3 cupfuls sugar. 5 eggs (yolks and whites separate). ( 1 cupful milk. i 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 4 cupfuls flour. Mix in order, beating the eggs light, and reserving the Cake. 333 whites to mix in alternately with the flour, which should be stirred in as lightly as possible. (Use sour milk if you choose, and omit the lemon juice.) Bake in a moderately hot oven. Makes two loaves. Citron Cake. 1 cupful butter. 2 cupfuls sugar. 3 eggs (beaten light). 1 cupful milk. 1 teaspoonf ul soda, dissolved. 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- tar. 44 cupfuls flour. 1 small nutmeg, grated. 4 ounces citron, sliced thin. Mix in order, rubbing the citron through a part of the flour before adding it. Bake at once in a rather hot oven. Makes two large loaves. Lemon Loaf Cake. I cupful butter. 2 cupfuls of white sugar. 3 eggs (yolks and whites separate). 1 cupful milk. 14 teaspoonfuls soda. 4 cupfuls flour. 2 lemons. Mix in order. Beat eggs light. Use both juice and rind of lemons. Bake in a rather hot oven. Makes two loaves. Almond Cake (No. 1). ( 1 cupful butter. ( 14 cupfuls sugar. 3 eggs (beaten light). ' 4 cupful milk. (3 cupfuls flour (about), i 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. | teaspoouful almond extract. 1 pound almonds. Mix in order everything but the rJmonds. "Blanch " these. Lay aside enough to cover, when split in halves, the top of the cake. Chop the rest, and beat well into 334 How to Cook Well the cake-batter. Pour this into a deep pan, and lay the split almonds lightly on top. They will rise and brown as the cake bakes. Bake in a moderately hot oven. No. 2. f 2 cupfuls sugar. \ 4 cupful butter. 6 eggs (whites only). ( \ cupful milk. < 4 teaspoon ful soda. { 1 teaspoonf ul cream of tartar. ( 3 cupfuls flour. Mix in order. Bake in a rather quick oven in two flat tins. When cold, spread one loaf with the following Cream. 1 pint boiling milk. 3 tablespoonfuls flour. 2 eggs. 4 cupful sugar. 4 teaspoonf ul vanilla. 4 pound almonds. Stir the flour into the boiling milk, having first rubbed it smooth in a little cold milk. Have ready the eggs and sugar beaten together; add them to the hot milk and flour, and stir every minute to prevent their curdling. When it thickens, remove from the stove and stir in the .vanilla. Have ready half a pound almonds ^ blanched" and halved. Mix about two thirds of them into the cream. When you have spread it on the cake, place the other loaf on top and frost it. Put the remainder of the almonds in even rows on the frosting, leaving spaces to cut the cake into slices. Fruit or Wedding Cake. 1 pound butter (scant). 1 pound brown sugar. | tablespoonful grated nut- meg. 14 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. 4 tablespoonful cloves. 4 tablespoonful mace. 1 cupful N. O. molasses. 1 pound flour. 4 pounds raisins (stoned). 2 pounds currants (washed). 4 pound citron (sliced). 1 small cupful brandy. Cream the butter and sugar. Add the spice and yolks Cake. 335 of the eggs (beaten light) and the molasses. Reserve a little of the flour in which to rub the fruit, and stir in the rest alternately with the beaten whites. Just before adding the fruit and brandy, dip out a little of the batter to spread over the top of the cake, when in the pan, ready to bake. This will give a smooth surface for frosting. Line the pan with several thicknesses of paper buttered, and put paper over the top when it begins to brown. Bake in a slow oven two or three hours, keeping the heat steady. Watch it closely. When cold, frost it hand- somely. It will keep a long time. Chodwell Cake. 1 cupful butter. 3 cupfuls sugar. 5 eggs (beaten light). 1 cupful milk. 1 teaspoonful soda. 4 cupfuls flour. 1 pound raisins, stoned. 1 pound currants (washed and dried). 4 pound citron, cut in slips. 1 teaspoouf ul cloves. 4 teaspooiiful nutmeg. 2 teaspoonf uls cinnamon. Mix in order, reserving a part of the flour to scatter over the fruit before stirring it in. Bake slowly in a moderate oven, watching it carefully. Makes two large loaves. Coffee Cake, 1 cupful brown sugar. 1 full cupful butter. 1 egg (beaten light). 1 cupful molasses. 1 teaspoonful soda (dry). 1 cupful strong cofl'ee (cold) . 44 light cupfuls flour. 1 cupful raisins stoned. cupful currants, teaspoonful cloves, teaspoonful cinnamon, teaspoonful mace, teaspoonful allspice, teaspoonful ginger. A very little nutmeg. Mix in order, dissolving the soda in the molasses before adding it, and reserving one cupful of flour in which to rub the raisins and currants before putting in. Beat well, 336 How to CooJc Well. and bake at once in a moderate oven about one hour, taking care not to let it burn. Makes two large loaves. If frosted, it will keep fresh a long time. Quick Sponge Cake. 4 eggs (yolks and whites sep- arate). 1 cupful flour. A pinch of salt. 1 cupful pulverized sugar. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar; add the whites, and beat in the flour and the salt very lightly, and only just enough to mix it through, for longer beat- ing makes it tough. Bake it in one loaf in a moderate oven, keeping the heat steady. This is the most quickly and easily made of all sponge cake. The General's Sponge Cake. | pound sugar. 8 tablespoonfuls cold water. i pound flour, twice sifted. A pinch of salt. 7 eggs (beaten light) . Put the sugar and water together, and boil briskly with- out stirring, and while warm (not hot} pour it slowly over the eggs, stirring them so that they will not curdle. Beat twenty or twenty-five minutes. Then stir in lightly the flour and salt ; and bake at once in a quick oven, keep- ing the heat steady. Old-fashioned Sponge Cake. 12 eggs, whites and yolks sep- arate. Sugar. Flour. 2 lemons. A pinch of salt. Weigh the eggs before you break them. Take their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar ; then stir in lightly the whites, beaten stiff. Add the rind of one lemon grated, and the juice of both. Lastly, the flour and salt, beating Cake, 337 only just enough to mix it through, and taking care not to touch the bottom of the bowl with the spoon. This makes it much lighter. Bake in a moderate oven, keep- ing the heat steady. Makes two loaves. Cheap Sponge Cake. 3 eggs (beaten light). 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. ( i teaspoonfnl soda (dissolved in < 1 tablespoonful warm water). Mix in this order. Beat hard before the flour goes in. Stir this in lightly. The whole mixing must be done rapidly, and the mixture not allowed to stand before baking. Bake in a quick oven, keeping the heat steady. Eat fresh. Makes one loaf. Angel Cake. 1 scant cupful flour. I teaspoonful cream of tar- tar. II eggs (whites only). 1 4 cupf uls fl n e s t granulated sugar. 2 teaspoon f uls vanilla. Pastry flour is the best to use. Put the cream of tartar with the flour, and sift it ten times. Beat the whites of the eggs in a large bowl till you can turn the bowl upside down without spilling them. Then beat in lightly the sugar, vanilla and sifted flour. Pour into an ungreased pan, without paper. Bake in a quick oven. When the cake is done, turn the pan upside down, and leave it resting on the edges supported by sticks until the cake partly cools. If you leave it too long it will be spoiled. Turn it out and ice the bottom with "Boiled Frosting." 338 How to Cook Well GINGERBREAD. Rye Beach Gingerbread. 1 cupful molasses. 1 cupful brown sugar. i cupful lard and butter, mixed. 2-i tablespoonfuls ginger. 3-i or 4 cupf uls flour. 1 cupful sour milk. 3 eggs (even 1 will do). 1 teaspoon ful salt. 2 teaspoonf uls soda, dissolved. Put the molasses, sugar and shortening over the fire. As soon as they begin to boil, remove them and stir in at once the ginger. Have ready the flour in the mixing- bowl, and pour the hot molasses on it. Stir it briskly, then add the milk, and when cool enough not to curdle the eggs, add them, well-beaten, and the salt. Last, put in the soda. Beat hard, and bake carefully in a moderate oven. Makes two large loaves. This gingerbread is unequalled, even when but one egg is used. Spiced Gingerbread (no Eggs). 1 cupful butter. 1 cupful sugar. 1 cupful molasses. 1 cupful boiling water. 1 tablespoonful soda (nearly). 1 tablespoonful ginger. i nutmeg, grated. 1 teaspoonful cloves. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful mace. 1 teaspoonf ul allspice. Flour to make a thick batter. Mix in order ; beat hard, and bake in two loaves in a moderate oven, about half an hour. This is nice baked in patty-pans. Sponge Gingerbread (no Eggs). 2i teaspoonfuls ginger. 3 cupfuls flour. 1 teaspoonful cloves (may be omitted). Warm the milk, molasses and butter together. Add the soda, and mix with the flour and spice. Beat hard and bake carefully in two biscuit-pans about half an hour, taking care not to have the oven too hot. {1 cupful milk, li cupfuls molasses. Butter size of an egg. 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. Cake. 339 La Fayette Gingerbread. 4 pound butter, full weiglit. 4 pound brown sugar. 5 eggs, yolks and whites separate. 1 pint molasses. 4 pint milk. (14 pounds flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 4 teaspoonful soda (dry). 1 tablcspoonful ginger. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful cloves. \ pound raisins (may be omitted). Cream the butter and sugar ; add the beaten yolks, then the whites beaten stiff, the molasses and the milk. Sift the cream of tartar and the soda with the flour, and stir that in ; then mix in the spices and raisins, previously stoned and rubbed in a very little flour. Beat hard, and bake at once in a moderately hot oven. White or Sugar Gingerbread. J 2 cupfuls white sugar. \ 1 cupful butter. 5 eggs, beaten light. ( 1 cupful milk. I 4 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). ( 2 cupfuls flour. i 4 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 2 tablespoonfuls white ginger. Mix in order and beat hard. Spread it with a knife, thinly and evenly, in a large shallow pan, and just before you put it in the oven, sprinkle the top with white sugar. When cold, cut into squares or diamonds. Canadian Gingerbread (no Eggs). 4 pound butter. 1 pound flour. 4 pound sugar (white). 14 tablespoonfuls ginger. 1 nutmeg (grated). 1 lemon. 4 cupful milk (warm). 4 teaspoonful soda, dissolved. Rub the butter into the flour. Add the sugar and the 340 How to Cook Well. spice, and mix them all well together. Chop the pulp of the lemon very tine, and grate the rind. Then stir in the milk and the soda. Work the whole into a smooth paste ; put it into a shallow pan, and spread smooth and thin with a knife. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. When cold, cut into three-inch squares, and eat fresh. COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES. REMARKS. In mixing cookies, etc., care should be taken not to put in too much flour, as this makes them hard. The only remedy for it afterwards is to work into the dough a lit- tle melted butter or milk. Work the flour in smoothly, leaving no lumps. Press evenly in rolling out the dough, so that it will not be thicker in one part than another, or the cookies will bake unevenly. Of course the rolling-pin and bread-board should both be floured, to prevent stick- ing, and so should the cutter. Out them into rounds with this, or into squares with a knife. Place them a little apart in the pan, so that they will keep their shape in baking. Bake cookies in a large shallow pan or on a piece of sheet-iron, either of which one can easily have made to order, just the size of the oven. This facilitates the pro- cess of cookey-making very much. The size of the cookey-pan I have in view in giving the amount which each receipt will make, is eighteen inches square. The pan should be turned when the cookies are half-done. The oven should be hot. They will rise more quickly and be more tender for being baked quickly. Ten min- utes is long enough to bnke them, unless rolled very thick. Jumbles require about fifteen minutes. Cake. 341 Seed Cakes (no Eggs). 2 cupf uls sugar. 2 cupfuls butter. ( 1 cupful milk. ( 2 teaspoonf uls caraway seeds. 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 1 small nutmeg, grated. Flour enough for a soft dough. Mix in order, having soaked the seeds in the milk about half an hour. Put in the flour gradually. Roll out on a bread-board, not quite one quarter of an inch thick, and cut with a biscuit-cutter. Bake in a quick oven about ten minutes. Cinnamon Cookies. f 1 heaping cupful butter. I li cupfuls brown sugar. One egg, beaten light (maybe omitted), f 1 cupful sour milk. < 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). ( 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. ( Flour enough to make a soft dough. Mix in order, stirring the cinnamon into a part of the flour before putting it in. Bake ten minutes in a very hot oven. Fills cookey-pan once, and makes a few cookies over. Sour Cream Cookies. f 1 cupful thick sour cream. ^ 1| cupfuls brown sugar. 1 egg, beaten light. 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved). Stir cream and sugar together. Mix in order. Bake ten minutes in a very hot oven. These are quickly made. Fills cookey-pan three quarters full. 1 dessertspoonful melted but- ter. A few drops extract of rose. Flour to make a soft dough. 342 How to Cook Well. Soft Cookies. 1 heaping cupful butter, li cupf uls brown sugar. 2 eggs (beaten light). 3 tablespoonfuls sour or 1 teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 1 teaspoonful vanilla. As little flour as will roll them out. buttermilk. Mix in order, and roll out as evenly as possible. Sprinkle granulated sugar over the entire surface. Press it in slightly with the rolling-pin. Cut into rounds, with a sharp tin cutter previously dipped into dry flour. Bake ten or twelve minutes in a hot oven. Plainer cookies may be made from this receipt by omitting part of the butter and one of the eggs. Fills cookey-pan two thirds full. Nutmeg Cookies. 1 heaping cupful butter. 2 cupf uls white sugar. 2 eggs (beaten light) . i a nutmeg, grated. 1 teaspoonful soda (dis- solved) . ( 4 cupf uls flour. I 2 teaspoonf uls cream tartar. 1 cupful milk. Mix in order. Proceed as with " Soft Cookies," tak- ing care to work in when on the bread-board only enough flour to enable you to roll them out. These cookies should be eaten fresh. Graham Cookies. 1 heaping cupful butter. 2 cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs (beaten light). \ cupful sour milk or cream. Graham flour for a soft dough. A pinch of salt. 1 orange or lemon, the juice only (may by omited). ( if teaspoonful soda. Mix in order. Turn out on the bread-board which should be thinly covered with white flour. Use white flour also on the rolling-pin, as Graham flour is too sticky to roll out the cookies with. Roll the dough out evenly, not more than Cake. 343 a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out with a floured tin cutter of generous size. Bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. It fills a cookey-pan once ami a half. These are very nice for children, and without the orange or lemon are sometimes mistaken for cocoanut. Children's Cookies (very plain). ( 1 cupful sugar. i 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 egg (beaten light). f i cupful milk. 1 i teaspoonful soda (dissolved). 1 tablespoonful ginger or cinnamon. Flour for a soft dough. Mix in order. Roll very thin. Bake ten minutes in a hot oven. Fills cookey-pan three quarters full. Spice Cookies (no Eggs). 1 cupful sugar. 2 cupfuls molasses. 1 cupful shortening (melted.) jf cupful boiling water. 1 tablespoonful soda. 1 table spoonful ginger. 1 tablespoonful cinnamon. 4 tablespoonful cloves. 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Flour enough to roll out. Mix all together, mixing the spice with part of the flour before adding it. Roll thin, and bake ten minutes, taking care that they do not burn. Anything containing molasses is liable to burn. Ginger Snaps. 1 pint molasses. 1 cupful butter, or half lard. 1 teaspoonful ginger. 1 teaspoonful cloves. 1 teaspoonful soda. A little salt. Flour enough to make a stiff doujrh. Put all the ingredients excepting the flour into a large pan. Set this on the fire and let it come to a boil ; then stir till well mixed. Remove from the fire, and when 344 How to CooJc Well nearly cool, add flour enough to make a stiff dough. (If you use too small a pan it will foam over.) Roll out as thin as paper and cut out. Bake in a hot oven about three minutes. They burn easily. These are very dainty and brittle. Add more ginger if you like. Fills cookey-pan twice. Ohio Cakes. k pound butter. 1 pint molasses. i pound flour. Ginger to taste. i pound brown sugar. Boil the butter and molasses together for one minute. Stir in the sugar while hot. Then pour it over one half of the flour. Stir in the rest a little at a time with the ginger. Drop from a teaspoon on a buttered pan a little distance apart, and bake about twenty-five minutes in a rather slow oven. Jumbles. 1 heaping cupful butter. 2 cupfuls white sugar. 3 eggs (beaten light). cupful milk. 4 teaspoon ful soda. Flavoring to your fancy. Flour as little as will roll them out. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream ; add eggs, milk, soda and flavoring. Stir in the flour and turn out on a floured bread-board. Roll nearly half an inch thick, sprinkle with sugar, and press it in slightly. Cut into rounds with a large tin cutter ; with a small cutter remove the centre of each, leaving rings to be baked. (The pieces that are cut out can be collected and rolled out again to cut more jumbles.) Bake about twelve minutes in a hot oven, keeping the heat steady. Another way to make them is to make a roll of the douo-h about as thick as your finder, twist it around and dip into sugar before laying it in the baking-pan. CaJce. 345 Shrewsbury Cakes. i pound butter. ] pound sugar. 4 eggs (beaten light). teaspoonfuls mace or cinna- mon. pounds flour* Mix in order. Beat very thoroughly before the flour goes in. Drop in spoonfuls on buttered tins. Sift sugar over them, and bake in a rather hot oven about fifteen minutes. These are very fine. Walnut Wafers. 1 cupful flour. i pound English walnuts. j \ cupful butter. I 1 cupful sugar. 1 egg (beaten light). Cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg and flour. Chop the nuts very fine and stir them into the mixture. Drop the mixture from a spoon on to buttered tin sheets, and flatten with a wet stamp. Bake in a moderate oven. This will make about two dozen. If preferred, put in more flour and roll them out ; but the first way is the best. New Year's Cakes (without eggs). ( 2^ pounds sugar. ( 1^ pounds butter. 5 pounds flour. i cupful brandy. 2table spoonfuls corian- der seed. i cupful cold water. Rub butter and sugar to a cream. Add the flour, then the water and brandy, in which the seed has been soaking for half an hour. Knead well. Roll out the dough half an inch thick, and cut out square cakes. Stamp them with fanciful figures. Bake about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven, a very light color. If they brown too much before they are done, cover them with a thick paper. These are delicious, and will keep for six months. A large quantity. 346 How to Cook Well Kissos or Meringues. 4 eggs (whites only). 2i cupfuls pulverized sugar. teaspoonf ul cream of tartar, dry. i tablespoonful cornstarch. Beat eggs and sugar together till very stiff. It may take half an hour. Then mix in the other things. Drop from a fork in little heaps on a sugared paper laid in a pan, twirling the fork to give a good shape. Take care to put them so as not to touch each other. They wiH not run together if beaten long enough. Bake in a very slow oven for about an hour. Watch them carefully. They should be a delicate yellow. Take them off the paper while warm. Makes two dozen. Cream Meringues. Bake the above mixture in a very hot oven about three minutes. Scoop out part of the inside, fill with "Whipped Cream" and stick them together two and two. Dimples. Make " Kisses." Have ready a quarter of a pound of almonds. "Blanch" them and crush like coarse sand. Just before putting the cakes in the oven, scatter the almonds over the surface of each. Bake in a hot oven not more than three minutes, watching them carefully. Makes two dozen. Cocoanut Drop Cakes. 1 cupful grated cocoanut. I 1 tablespoonful flour. cupful sugar (pulverized). I 2 eggs, whites only. Beat all well together. Drop from a teaspoon on to a sugared paper, leaving a space between. Bake in a quick oven about fifteen minutes. They will spread in the pan. Do not let them brown. Macaroons. 1 pound almonds " blanched." A little rose water. 1 pound sugar pulverized. 7 eggs, whites only. It is best to prepare the almonds the day before, as it Cake. 347 is a tedious process. Put them in a mortar and pound fine, adding the rose-water by degrees. When worked to a smooth paste, stir in the sugar. When ready to make the cakes, beat the eggs stiff ; then add to them the almond paste. Drop by spoonfuls on a delicately but- tered or sugared paper, laid over a pan. Leave a good space between them. Sprinkle sugar over the cakes, or brush them over with the white of an egg to make them smooth. Bake delicately in a slow oven about twenty minutes, watching them carefully. Doughnuts. ii a nutmeg grated, quart flour. 3 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- der. ( 1 pint sugar. 1 2 eggs. 1 pint boiling water. i cupful melted butter and lard mixed. Beat the sugar and eggs together. Add the water and shortening. Then stir in the nutmeg and the flour with the baking powder in it. Add more flour to enable you to roll out a soft dough about three quarters of an inch thick. Cut with a biscuit-cutter, removing a round piece from the centre of each. "Boil in Lard" both pieces, having the lard boiling hot. (See " Fritters.") While hot, sift sugar over them. Raised Doughnuts. 1 pint milk. I teaspoonful salt. 1 cupful yeast. I 5 cupf uls flour more or less. Mix these at night, about nine o'clock, using enough flour to make a thick batter. Cover and set to rise. In the morning stir in the following: 2 cupf uls white sugar. 1 small cupful butter and lard mixed. 3 eggs (beaten light). 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. \ teaspoonful soda (dissolved). Beat well together, and stir in more flour till the 348 How to Cook Well. spoon will almost stand alone. (It should be as stiff as soft bread-dough.) Cover the pan, and set to rise until light ; about three hours longer. Then roll out about one half an inch thick, on a floured bread-board, and cut out. Let the dough rise about fifteen minutes on the board after cutting out. Them boil them like " Fritters " in a deep kettle of lard. While hot, sprinkle with sugar. Crullers (No. 1). ( 1 cupful sugar. I 4 eggs. ( | cupful butter. I Flour enough to roll out. Mix in order. Roll out half an inch thick. Cut and braid, or make into any fancy shapes you choose. Boil in deep lard like " Fritters." Sift sugar over them while hot. No. 2. 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved. 1 tablespoonf ul vinegar. Flour enough to roll out. Flavor to taste. ( 1 cupful sugar. < 1 egg. 1 cupful milk. 2tablespoonfuls melted butter. Beat the sugar and egg together. Add milk and butter. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, and mix it in after a little of the flour has been put in; also the flavoring. Proceed as above. DRINKS. Tea. Fill the teapot with hot water, then pour it out. After thus heating the teapot, throw into it one even teaspoon- ful of tea allowed for each person, and one for the teapot. Cover with boiling water, and set on the front part of the stove long enough to count thirty. Then fill up with boiling water, allowing one cupful water to each teaspoon- ful tea. Set the pot where it will keep as hot as possible Drinks. 349 but not boil. Serve at the end of fifteen minutes. If steeped longer it will be too strong. Tea made in this way is perfection ; it should never boil. After making tea once, neither it nor the water need be measured, if you notice how much was used ; but to insure having always equally good tea, the proportion must be kept the same. Make ten fresh every time ; or if there is tea left to be used over, pour it off at once into a clean pitcher (never tin) till time to heat it ; if left standing on the leaves it will become rank. Save the tea-leaves to scatter over a carpet on sweep- ing-day ; they brighten the colors. They also make ex- cellent poultices for weak eyes or chilblains. Tea a la Busse. Slice thin one or two lemons. Lay a slice in the bot- tom of each cup. Pour the hot tea over, and sugar to taste. No cream is used. This is refreshing in hot weather. Iced Tea. Make tea several hours before it is to be served. Pour it into a clean pitcher, and when cool, set on ice. Serve with a lump of ice in the bottom of each cup. Another way is, to put into a pitcher, six hours before serving, the usual amount of tea and water (one teaspoonful tea to each cupful of water), but use cold water. Serve as above. As this requires no cooking it is con- venient in hot weather ; you can then let the fire go out when you please. Coffee (No. 1). Every one has her own pet way of making coffee. Here are two rules, Loth good, though differing widely. Heat the coffee-pot. Throw into it one tablespoonful 350 How to Cook Well. of coffee allowed to each person, and one for the coffee-pot. Put in the shells of an egg, and pour on one cupful of boiling water for each tablespoonf ul of coffee. Hoil hard, eight or ten minutes. Then pour a little cold water down the spout, arid set the pot where it will keep hot, but not boil, for three minutes. Serve at once, as it spoils by standing. No. 2. Mix the coffee smooth in cold water, with a little white of an egg. Add one cupful cold water to each tablespoonful coffee, and set the coffee-pot on the stove, stopping up the spout with a cork. This will pre- serve all the aroma. Let it just come to a boil, but not boil. Coffee to be in perfection should be freshly browned and ground, but this cannot always be attained. Mocha and Java, mixed in the proportion of one of Mocha to two of Java, are usually considered best. Java alone ranks next. Water both for coffee and tea should be freshly boiled, never use that which has stood in the tea-kettle over night. The directions given above are for coffee made in an ordinary coffee-pot. This must be washed every time it is used and put away dry, or you will never have good coffee. The least particle of stale coffee- grounds burnt on the sides, will give a bitter flavor. Cafe au Lait. Make coffee by either of the ways given above, but make it a trifle stronger than usual. Clear it well, and pour it off the grounds at once. Add an equal quantity of hot boiled milk, and set it on the fire for a moment to ensure its being very hot when served. One third the quantity of cream may be used instead of milk. Harmless Coffee. This is an excellent substitute for coffee, for those DrinJts. 351 whose nerves do not allow them to drink the real article. 14 pints molasses. ll pound best ground coffee, i peck coarse wheat bran. Rub the molasses through the bran thoroughly. It can be done best with the hands. Then put it in the oven, stir- ring often until perfectly dry ; it may take all day. Or you may put it in the oven, with the door open over night, and it will not take so long. Then separate it into thirds (so that your dripping-pan will not be too full at one time) and bum it on the top of a moderate fire, stirring con- tinually until the whole is of a very dark brown. When all is done, and while still hot, mix through it one pound of the best ground coffee. When perfectly cold, put it into a tightly-closed tin box, or into glass jars, and use like real coffee. Chocolate. Allow one dessert-spoonful of grated chocolate to each cup. Allow a half cupful each of milk and water to each person (or use milk alone). Put the milk and water on to boil in a double boiler. When boiling fast, dip out a very little on the chocolate, and rub till smooth. Then pour the chocolate into the hot milk. Boil for five min- utes ; and then for every four cupfuls, mix in one egg well beaten, and previously mixed with a little of the boiling chocolate. As soon as thoroughly mixed, pour into a pitcher, or the egg will curdle. Be careful to boil the chocolate, and for fully five min- utes ; and you will never complain of chocolate made in this way being muddy. Sweeten in the cups, not while boiling. The egg may be omitted, if it is preferred to have it not so rich, or the yolk or white alone may be used. Chocolate with "Whipped Cream." Make chocolate as above, and lay a spoonful of " Whipped Cream " on the top of each cupful after it is 352 How to Cook Well. poured out. If you want the chocolate very rich, mix the beaten white of one egg through each cupful. Cocoa. Make like chocolate (without the egg), allowing one tea- spoonful to each cup of milk and water. Blackberry Wine. Mash well the berries, which should not be over-ripe. Strain the juice and pulp through a thin cloth, squeezing the pulp thoroughly. Set the juice away to settle until next day. Then skim, and strain through a thicker, closer cloth. To each gallon of juice add two and one half or two and three fourths pounds of granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Put the juice into wide-mouthed jugs, or into jars, reserving a small quantity. Tie a cloth loosely over the mouth of the jugs. As fermenta- tion proceeds, skim off daily, and fill up with the reserved juice. Fermentation ceases in about ten days. Decant and cork lightly until November. Then draw off from the lees, and bottle and cork tight. Some add one gallon of boiling water to each bushel of berries, before mashing, but it is better not to do so, as this is apt to make the wine sour. Blackberry Cordial. Mash and boil as many berries as you please. Strain, and to each gallon of juice add pounds white sugar. ounce ground allspice. 4 ounce ground cloves. Boil again till the juice thickens. When cool, add one half cupful of good brandy to each quart of juice. Bottle tight, and keep in a cool place. Fit for use at once. Excellent for diarrhoea. Drinks. 353 Cherry Bounce. 1 peck wild cherries (black). 5 quarts rum, brandy or whis- 2 quarts water. li pounds white sugar. key. Pound the cherries sufficiently to crack the stones. Put them into a deep stone jar with the spirit, and stir well. Pour oft' into a demijohn, cover tight, and let it stand two or three months, shaking it very often. At the end of that time, squeeze through a bag and add the water and sugar. Ready to use in one week, but improves the longer it is kept. It will keep for years. This makes a very large quantity. As it is troublesome to make, it is best to make enough to last several years. This is to be used in sickness, not more than a tablespoonful at a time. An excellent tonic. .Currant Wine. 4 (crowded) quarts currants on the stem. 4 quarts best brown sugar (white if preferred). 4 quarts water. Crush and bruise thoroughly the currants. Add the water ; mix well, and strain through a flannel bag. To each four quarts of juice add four pounds of sugar. Leave it in an open vessel until the sugar is well dissolved, and then put in a keg or stone jug, and put in the cellar. Cork loosely until the wine has worked sufficiently. If in a keg, the wine can remain in it; but if in jugs, it should be drawn and bottled about April or May. Grape Wine. Make like " Blackberry Wine." Raspberry Vinegar. 4 quarts red raspberries. I Sugar. 1 quart vinegar. To two quarts of the raspberries add the vinegar, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through a 354 How to Cook Well. flannel bag, and pour it over the other two quarts of berries. Let it stand as before and strain again. Allow three fourths of a pound of white sugar to one pint of juice. Stir well. Place it in a stone jar, in a kettle of water, and let it boil until the sugar dissolves. Bottle and seal. A tablespoonful or two to a glass of water makes a nice drink in hot weather, and it is especially grateful to fever patients. Spruce Beer. Checkerberry leaves (a large handful). Black cherry-tree bark (very little). Winter-green (a little). Sassafras root. Horse-radish (very little) . Dandelion root (very little). Spruce, three or four twigs (leaves and all). Put all in a kettle and cover with water. Let it steep three or four hours, but not boil. Then let it cool. Strain and add 1 cupful molasses. I 2 quarts cold water. ^ cupful potato yeast. Put it in a jug. Cover the jug (uncorked) with a net- ting, and leave it to ferment (about one and a half days). When ready, cork it tight. The second time you make it, use no yeast ; but pour the new beer on the dregs of the old. Cream Beer. ounces tartaric acid. 1 ounce cream of tartar. 2 quarts water. 2 pounds white sugar. 2 eggs, whites, well beaten with 2 tablespoonf uls flour. Put all together. Scald. When cool, add a little of any kind of flavoring. Bottle, and keep in a cool place. To use it, put two tablespoonfuls of syrup to a glassful of cold water ; add half a teaspoonf ul of soda ; beat it and drink at once while foaming. A delicious, cool drink on a hot day, and an excellent substitute for soda water when that cannot be had. Fruits. 355 STEWED AND BAKED FRUITS. Apple Sauce. Peel and core tart, juicy apples, and cut them into even slices. Stew with water enough to barely cover them, crushing them often with a wooden spoon. When half done, add sugar. Then boil down to a smooth, pulpy mass. Serve with nutmeg grated over the top. Never throw away a spoonful of apple sauce. It can be used for custard, and an endless variety of things. Dried Peaches or Apples Stewed. Soak for two hours in cold water enough to more than cover them, having washed them well. Then stew slowly in the same water till tender enough to be pierced by a straw. Add a little sugar shortly before taking them off the fire. The dried peaches one gets nowadays are almost equal to those which are canned for sale, and are far cheaper. Stewed Rhubarb. Cut the stalks into inch-long pieces, with or without peeling the latter makes a richer dish. Put it into a porcelain sauce-pan, and pour boiling water over it. Let it stand a moment, then drain. (This will remove the intense acidity, and less sugar will be required.) Set it on the fire, with very little water, let it stew till tender (about eight minutes), then sweeten plentifully, and re- move. Vary it by adding a few raisins ; they impart an agreeable flavor. Clarified Apples. Peel and core large, firm apples enough to cover the bottom of a preserving kettle, or a deep tin pan. Nearly cover them with cold water. Cover the kettle, and boil slowly (or they will lose their shape) until tender. Then 356 How to CooJc Well take them out carefully. Allow one cupful of sugar to every three apples. Boil this with the water ten minutes. Return the apples to the syrup, and boil slowly again, until clear. Lay them carefully into the dish they are to be served in and pour the syrup over. If the apples are sweet, boil thin slices of lemon with the syrup. Apples Stewed Whole. A less expensive dish than that above. Prepare the fruit and proceed in the same way, but allow one cupful of sugar to one dozen apples. Put it in with the apples as soon as they are tender, then cook ten minutes longer all together. Jellied Apples. Fill a quart pudding-dish with alternate layers of thinly sliced sour apples, brown sugar and cinnamon. Pour over all one half a cupful of water ; cover with a plate, buttered, to prevent its sticking. Bake very slowly for three hours; then let it stand until cold. When it is turned out, there will be a solid mass of clear red slices imbedded in firm jelly. Serve with cream and nice crackers. This is a simple and delicious dish, nice enough for a Sunday dessert. There should be a great deal of sugar used to ensure its turning out in good shape. Other spices may be added if you like. Baked Apples. Wash, and prick the skins with a fork to prevent their bursting. Lay them in a pan with a very little water in the bottom. Bake in a moderate oven, one hour if sour, longer if sweet. Dip -the juice over the tops once or twice while cooking. Just before they are done, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon over the tops, and when you take them out of the oven, let them stand covered till cold, to have them in perfection. Fruits. 357 Delicate Baked Apples. Pare and core the apples. Lay them in an earthen dish, with a very little water in the bottom. Fill the centre of each apple with sugar and a lump of butter, or a slice of lemon. Cover, and bake slowly for three quar- ters of an hour. These are delicious, especially if served with " Whipped Cream." They then make a good dessert. Sweet crackers should be served with them. Apples Baked in a Jar. Put the fruit, without paring, in a stone jar, with layers of sugar, and fill the jar with cold water. Cover tight, and bake in a slow oven for three hours. If sweet apples are used, no water or sugar should be added. They will themselves form a rich syrup. Baked Fears. Just like " Baked Apples," but add one half as much molasses as you have water in the pan, and omit sugar. Hard winter pears can never be baked so as to be tender. Pears Baked in a Jar. Put twelve large pears in a sauce-pan. Add the rind of one lemon, cut thin, and the juice; a small stick of cinnamon, and a little allspice. Cover with water and allow one pound of sugar to each one and one half pints of water. Cover close, and bake six hours in a slow oven. They will be tender and of a bright color. If you choose add a little red wine, or cloves, when you cook them. Baked Quinces. The easiest way is to rub them hard, to remove the fuzz; bake like apples (but longer), and serve cold with cream and sugar. A Nicer Way is, to peel, core and quarter them. 358 How to Cook Well Lay them in a dee]) dish ; allow half a cupful of sugar to every eight quinces, and dissolve it in warm water enough to more than cover them. Pour over the fruit, cover close, and bake in a slow oven till tender enough to be pierced by a straw. Serve cold with cream. Save cores and skins to make a 4 ' Syrup Sauce." * Stewed Pears. Juicy pears are delicious done in this way. Peel them, but leave the stems on. Proceed as with "Apples Stewed Whole," but when you put in the sugar, add a little ginger and a few thin slices of lemon. Hard pears should be boiled for one and a half hours, very slowly, in equal parts of molasses and water. No sugar is needed, but the ginger and lemon are necessary to flavor them. These will keep for two weeks if kept covered ; and if sealed while hot they will keep till spring. Stewed Berries, Cherries or Grapes. Stew with not enough water to cover them, as a great deal of juice will be drawn out of the fruit. Heat grad- ually, and sweeten to taste when half-done. Cherries need not be stoned, but look them over carefully as they are apt to be wormy. Grapes should be strained when done, to remove the seeds. Berries which are not ripe enough to eat raw with safety, or which are so ripe that you fear they will not keep, are utilized by stewing. (Any stewed berries that are left over may be used for " Berry Charlotte.") If the stewed berries are very juicy, it is an improvement to thicken the juice with a little cornstarch. Stewed Prunes. Wash, cover with cold water and stew slowly for about an hour ; do not take them from the fire till tender enough to be pierced by a straw, and the skins look nearly smooth. Sweeten just before taking them up. Preserves and Jellies. 359 Stewed Raisins. Cover with cold water, and stew till tender; adding very little sugar, and one or two slices of lemon, shortly before serving ; or cinnamon and cloves may be substituted for the lemon. PRESERVES AND JELLIES. BEMAKKS. A porcelain-lined kettle is the best for preserving. Stir preserves with a wooden spoon. Use white sugar unless brown is specified. The fruit should be fresh. That which is not too ripe is best. Be careful to put in none which is decayed. It should be boiled slowly, other- wise it will not keep its shape. Too long boiling spoils the color, and makes some kinds tough and hard. A jelly-bag may be made of flannel, but crash is better. It should have large loops of tape sewed at each top corner, through which a large stick or broom-handle can be passed. Rest each end of the stick on the back of a chair and hang the bag between, with a large earthen vessel underneath to catch the juice. Wet the bag in hot water, then wring dry. Have a second person hold the bag open while you pour the fruit in. Do not squeeze the bag, but let the juice drip through during several hours. (This will insure its being clear.) Once in a while the pulp may be gently stirred with a wooden spoon. Both jellies and preserves should boil without ceasing. Do not cover them when done, till cold, though they should be put at once into glasses or jars. Fill them as fall as possible, so as not to leave room for the air. Keep them in a dark cool place, where they will not freeze. If your house is damp, cover with brandied paper. 360 How to CooJc Well Syrup for Preserves. 2 pounds granulated sugar. 1 egg (white only). < 1 pint clear cold water. Put the sugar and water into a porcelain-lined kettle. Set it on the fire. Before the syrup becomes hot, beat the egg slightly and mix thoroughly into it. When it begins to boil, skim it. Do not let it boil over, but let it boil until no more scum rises. The object of the egg is to clarify the syrup. It can be made without. To Make Bich Preserves. Any kind of fruit can be preserved in syrup in this way. Weigh the fruit after stoning and paring, and allow one pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Make of this a syrup as above. Then put in the fruit, and boil slowly till clear. Fill jars two thirds full of fruit ; boil the syrup almost to a jelly, and pour hot over the fruit. Candied Fruits, Peel and stone plums, peaches, or cherries. Have ready a thick syrup, made by boiling together one pound of sugar to one cup of water. (This is the proportion^ Put in the fruit, and boil very slowly till tender. Do not leave it on the stove after this, it would spoil the shape of the fruit. Set away the preserving-kettle, just as it is, in a cool place. Leave the fruit in the syrup for two days, to absorb it. Take out the pieces then, and drain them. Sprinkle each one thickly with granulated sugar, covering every side. Lay them on clean paper, and set in the air (but not in the sun) to dry. Turn them often. Pack in pasteboard boxes, v ith paper laid between the layers. Keep in a cool place. Candied fruit is easily made, and is useful in a house subject to the sudden arrival of company, as a variety of pretty desserts can quickly be made with it. Preserves and Jellies. 361 Tutti-Frutti Preserve (without boiling). Begin to make this preserve with the first fruit that comes, and put in some of every kind in its season, until fall, being sure to use one pound of black cherries, for they improve the color of the preserve. Do not wash berries. Prepare other fruit as for pre- serving, removing peels, cores and stones. Quarter the large fruits. Use as much or as little of any kind of fruit as you like. The idea is to blend the flavor of all. The fruit must be sound and ripe, and perfectly dry. Weigh what you put in each time, and allow to one pound of fruit three quarters of a pound of granulated sugar. Use a two gallon stone jar with a cover. Put in it one quart of white brandy, or Arrac do Batavia. Keep the jar in a cool, dry place, taking care to* cover it every time after putting in the fruit. The fruit is not to be cooked, but merely dropped into the brandy with the sugar, and stirred well with a wooden spoon. The whole must be stirred thoroughly every day to dis- solve the sugar, and ensure the success of the preserve. Ready for use within a week after the last fruit is put in. It will keep a year, and is very rich and delicious. Brandy Peaches (No. 1). Weigh the peaches, and weigh an equal number of pounds of sugar. Pour boiling water over the peaches, a few at a time, then the skins can be easily removed with- out waste, or injury to the fruit. Have ready a large stone jar, and put each peach in it as soon as skinned, until you have a layer of peach. Sprinkle thickly with sugar. Fill up the jar with layers of peaches and sugar till all are used. The heat of the peach melts the sugar, and thus a syrup is made. For one basket of peaches allow three quarters of a gallon of white brandy. 362 How to CooJc Well. Cover the jar, and leave them Several days. Then put into glass jars and seal. If any of the sugar should remain undissolved in the bottom of the stone jar, when you remove the fruit, stir it well in the jar before pouring over the peaches. Although this receipt is called Brandy Peaches, one can just as well use the spirits of white whiskey, or, as it is sometimes styled, French spirits. It is only one quarter the price of the genuine article, which is very scarce, and rarely imported. A dishonest dealer will sell the spirits for it, anyway. No. 2. Pare the peaches, and drop each one, at once, into cold water. Make a very rich " Syrup," and boil a few at a time in it, until they are tender enough to run a straw to the pit. Then lay them separately on dishes till they are quite cold. Make a new syrup, as rich as possible, using only enough water to moisten the sugar. Put the peaches in the jars, until about two thirds full. To every cupful of syrup put a cupful of white brandy, and fill up the jars. Lastly, throw in each jar two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and seal them. These will keep a number of years. For directions about brandy, see last receipt. Preserved Peaches. Pare, stone, and weigh the fruit. The skins may be removed by scalding, like tomatoes ; there is then less waste than if a knife is used. Allow one pound of sugar to each pound of peaches. Put half the sugar at the bottom of the kettle, then the fruit and the rest of the sugar, with half a cupful of water to every four pounds. Heat slowly, and boil steadily and gently until the fruit is clear and tender (about an hour and a half). Take out the Preserves and Jellies. 363 pieces with a skimmer, and spread on platters to cool. Boil the syrup fifteen minutes longer fast / stir it and take off the scum. Fill the jars two thirds full of peaches. Pour on the boiling syrup, and when cold, seal. (Three and three fourths pounds peaches fill two quart jars.) If any syrup is left add one cupful sugar to a quart, and boil down to a jelly. Preserved Citron. Peel the citron, and cut into thin slices. To each pound of citron put one pound of sugar. Put alternate layers of citron and sugar in a deep bowl, and let it stand over night. In the morning the bowl will be full of syrup. Put the syrup on the stove. When boiling hot, add the citron and let it boil gently half a day, or until it is trans- parent. Add a few slices of lemon, and seal in jars. Preserved Watermelon Rind. ' Pare off thin the green outside, and cut away the white soft part inside. Then cut into various shapes, and soak in salt and water over night. Line your kettle with grape leaves. Boil in .clear water three times, putting a piece of alum into the second water, and keeping the rind covered closely with grape-leaves all the time. After each boiling, throw it immediately into cold water, in which let it remain until it becomes cool. When it can be pierced with a straw it is sufficiently done. To every pound of rind (weighed before boiling) allow one and a quarter pounds of sugar and two cupfuls of water. Have a syrup prepared of the sugar and water. Drain the rind after the last boiling through a colander, and throw it into the syrup with lemon peel cut into thin strips, using also the juice. Let it boil slowly (two hours, or more probably) until transparent. A few pieces of root ginger boiled with it is an improvement. The rind of one medium-sized melon fills two quart jars. 364 How to Cook Well Transparent Preserves. and Lemon.') Use fair, sweet, firm apples. Pare them, and cut them across the core in slices a quarter of an inch thick. Remove seeds, but not the core. Weigh them. Boil very gently in a little water, till tender; then lift carefully on to platters. Use half the number of lemons that you have of apples. Weigh them. Cut them across the core like the apples. Remove the seeds and lay the slices on platters. Take the weight of apples and lemons in sugar. Sprinkle half of it over the lemon slices ; let it stand several hours, until enough liquid has formed to cook them in. Drain it off. Put it in a porcelain kettle with the rest of the sugar. When it boils, drop in the lemon and apple slices, and boil gently until the fruit is clear. Those who dislike the taste of lemon peel, can use the lemon juice only. Preserved Tomatoes. (Small, round, yellow Ones.) Scald and peel ripe tomatoes. To each pound put one pound of sugar. Scatter it over the fruit and let it stand over night. In the morning, drain off the syrup which will have formed, and boil it about ten minutes, re- moving the scum. Put in then the tomatoes, and boil gently fifteen minutes. (Tomatoes lose their shape and become mushy if boiled fast.) Then skim them out, and spread on platters to cool. Boil the syrup till it thickens (about fifteen minutes longer). Put the fruit in jars with a few slices of lemon in each jar, and pour the syrup over them. Seal when cold. Any frufc may be preserved in this way. Preserves and Jellies. 365 Green Tomato Preserves. This is a good way to use green tomatoes left on the vines late in the season, after making piccalily. Take inside slices of smooth green tomatoes. To eight pounds of fruit allow four pounds of sugar. Make like " Preserved Tomatoes" (yellow) ; but add to the syrup, after taking out the fruit, six lemons (sliced) to every eight pounds. Preserved Pine-apple. Remove skin and eyes. Grate the pine-apple, or prepare thus: holding the pine-apple in the left hand, with a silver fork tear out small bits, beginning at the stem end. Throw away the core which is left. To each pound of pine-apple thus prepared allow three fourths of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar on the fire with one cupful of cold water to every two pounds of sugar. Heat slowly and let it just begin to boil before adding the fruit, which should be made very hot first by being set in a sauce-pan put into boiling water at the back of the stove. (Heating the fruit in this way before adding to the syrup prevents that hardness which is often so disagreeable in preserved pine-apple.) Boil all together slowly for fifteen minutes. Then put into jars, and seal when cold. Four medium-sized pine-apples will fill two quart-jars and one pint. Another (without boiling). Take pine-apples which are fully ripe, yet not soft. Pare them and pick out the eyes. Cut into round slices half an inch thick. Allow one and one quarter pounds of sugar to one pound of fruit thus prepared. Put layers of fruit and sugar in a jar, putting in the sugar tldckly, or some will be left over after the fruit is all in. Seal, and keep in a cold place. This keeps perfectly, is quickly prepared without the heat of a fire, and is as good as freshly sugared pine-apple a year afterwards. 3G6 How to Cook WeU. Preserved Apples. Peel, qunrter, and core firm, sour apples (ISTewtown pippins are best). To each pound of fruit thus prepared allow one pound of sugar (brown will do). Put the latter on the fire with one pint of water for every three pounds of sugar. Boil till it thickens well. Then skim and put in the fruit, with one lemon (sliced) for each pound of fruit, and a few pieces of whole white ginger (may be omitted). Boil very slowly, as apples easily lose their shape, till clear and they begin to fall. Then fill the jars. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer, skim, and pour over the fruit. Seal when cold. Make jelly of the skins and cores. (See Quince Jelly.) Preserved Pears, Peel, but leave the stems on. To every six pounds of pears thus prepared allow four pounds of sugar and two cupfuls of water, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one and one fourth of a cupful of whole white ginger. Put all together except the pears, and boil twenty minutes. Skim, and put in the pears. Boil slowly till tender (about one hour). Take them out and boil the syrup till very thick. Then skim it. Return the fruit and boil slowly for two or three minutes. Then put into jars, and seal while hot. (A little prepared cochineal should be added to give them a good color, if you wish them to look handsome.) The hard winter pear should be used for this. Preserved Plums. Green Gages and Egg-plums should be scalded for a moment to remove the skins, as with tomatoes. Damsons and small plums are preserved with the skins on ; prick them with a needle to try to prevent their bursting, though it is impossible wholly to avoid this. If you prefer, the large plums may be preserved with the skins on, also Preserves and Jellies. 367 pricking them in the same way. Allow one pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Put them in layers in a preserving-kettle, with sugar at top and bottom. Add one pint of water to every six pounds. Heat gradually to draw out the juice. As soon as it comes to a boil take out the plums carefully with a skimmer and spread upon platters in the sun. Boil the syrup till thick, skimming well. Put back the plums and boil ten minutes. Spread on platters again, but in a cool place. When cold and firm, fill jars two thirds full. Pour the hot syrup over, and seal at once. Preserved Quinces. The yellow, orange quince is the best for preserving; the other is too hard. Pare, quarter, and core (saving skins, seeds and cores for jelly, as there is much richness in them). Cover the quinces with plenty of water and simmer till tender. Take out carefully and spread upon platters to cool. Measure the liquor, and to every pint allow nearly one pound of sugar. Boil up once and skim. Then add the fruit and boil slowly for three quarters of an hour. Then put into jars. An Economical way to make Quince Preserves, is to prepare sweet apples in the same manner as the quinces, and allow one third apple to two thirds quince by weight, but do not allow any sugar for the apple. When the quinces are clear, take them out and put the apples into the syrup ; boil till they look as red as the quinces (about two hours). Then put the apple and quince alternately in the jars, and pour the syrup over. Seal when cold. When eaten, the apple and quince cannot be distin- guished from one another. One half a peck of quinces will fill four quart jars. If apples are used of course it will increase the quantity. If any syrup is left over, save it for flavoring custards, etc. 368 How to Cook Well (it will keep several weeks), or to put with the juice from the skins and cores when you make jelly of them. Preserved Currants. Weigh equal quantities of sugar and fruit stripped from the stalks. Boil the fruit, allowing half a cupful of water to each pound of fruit, for ten minutes. Stir, and crush with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar (brown will do), having heated it as for jelly. Boil ten minutes longer exactly. Then put into jars and seal. (Two pounds of currants will fill three pint jars. One pound of cur- rants equals one heaping pint.) Preserved Blackberries. The " high " blackberries are not good preserved. To one pound of the " low " blackberries allow one pound of sugar. Put in layers in the kettle with sugar on top, and fruit on the bottom. The fruit is so juicy that no water is necessary. Heat gradually, boil gently one hour, stir- ring often. Then put in jars and seal hot. Preserved Oranges. (Marion Harland's Receipt.) (This is the very best way to make Orange Preserves.) Allow pound for pound. Pare half of the oranges and cut the rind into shreds. Boil in three waters until tender, and set aside. Grate the rind of the remaining oranges, and take off and throw away every bit of the thick, white, inner skin; quarter all the oranges, and take out the seeds. Chop or cut them into small pieces ; drain all the juice that will come away, without pressing them, over the sugar. Heat this, stirring until the sugar is dis- solved, adding a very little water, unless the oranges are very juicy. Boil and skim five or six minutes; put in the boiled shreds and cook ten minutes ; then the chopped Preserves and Jellies. 369 fruit and grated peel, and boil twenty minutes longer. Put into jars, and when cold seal. Two dozen oranges fill three quart-jars and one pint-jar. Orange Marmalade. Peel the fruit. Put the peels on to boil. Let them boil a long time, changing the water several times. Cut the oranges across the grain, so as to remove the seeds. Take off all the thick, white skin. Put the peel through the colander ; then weigh peel, pulp and juice, all to- gether. Allow a little more than three quarters of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Put it on the fire, and notice when it begins to boil. After that let it boil twenty minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burn- ing. Put into bowls; and when cold, paste paper over them. Three dozen oranges will fill nine pint-jars. Grape Jam. "Wash the grapes, and while wet, separate the skin from the pulp, keeping them in two different dishes. Put the pulp into the preserving-kettle. When thoroughly heated, pass it through a strainer to separate the seeds ; then put with it the skins, and weigh. To one pound allow three quarters of a pound of sugar. If necessary, add a very little water to keep from burning ; but, in general, grapes are juicy enough of themselves. Boil slowly three quarters of an hour. This is a delicious jam. The skins are separated from .the pulp, so that the lat- ter will pass more readily through the strainer. Never put grapes, even for a moment, into tin, for the tin will discolor them. The wild grape is much the best for this purpose. 370 How to Cook Well. Quince and Pear Marmalade. Wash and quarter the fruit, without paring or coring it. Then boil it in enough water to cover it. When rather soft take it out, cut out the cores and pare off the skin, and cut it into thin slices. Weigh the fruit and allow half a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Put the sugar into the water in which the fruit was boiled, and boil to a syrup. Stew the fruit gently in this until the syrup is absorbed, stir- ring almost constantly. Then put it away in jars ; to be covered when cold, with paper pasted over it. If you like, flavor this with lemon or cinnamon just before removing from the fire. Tomato Marmalade. Use either green or ripe tomatoes, or both together. Scald and skin them. To each pound of tomatoes add, pound brown sugar. 1 1 teaspoonful cloves, i tablespoonful cinnamon. Stew alt together, without the addition of water. Stir constantly as they thicken. When reduced to a thick pulp, remove from the fire; put into jars, and when cold paste paper over them. This is a pleasant accompaniment to cold meat. Rhubarb Marmalade. 2 pounds rhubarb, cut into pieces. pounds sugar, lemon, rind only. Put all together into a deep dish, cutting the rind of the lemon fine. Let it stand till the next day. Then pour off the juice into a porcelain preserving-kettle, and boil nearly three quarters of an hour. Add the fruit and boil ten minutes. Put into jars, and seal when cold. 3 pounds peaches. 3 pounds quinces. Preserves and Jellies. 371 Medley Marmalade. 1 pound apples. 4 lemons. 2 pounds pears. Pare, stone, and core the fruit. Weigh it and slice thin or chop coarse. To every pound of fruit allow half a pound of sugar. Put the fruit and sugar in alternate layers, and leave until next day. Then put all together into the preserving-kettle, with the pulp of the lemon, and the rind cut into very thin strips. Boil a long time, stirring frequently almost constantly after it begins to thicken. When it looks clear and is almost as thick as jelly, dip it into bowls, and when cold, paste paper over the top. This can be made into jam, by put- ting it into jars before it thickens much. It is very delicious either way. If you cannot get all these fruits, any two or three alone are good. Save cores and peel to make a delicious jelly. (See Quince Jelly.) Jam (any Kind of Fruit). Pare, core, and quarter the fruit. (Use sour or sweet apples, pears, quinces, peaches, etc., or berries of any kind.) Boil (gently at first) in enough water to cover them, until quite soft. Then add a few pieces of root ginger, and the rind and juice of a lemon, with three quarters of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Boll (stirring constantly) until thick. Put into jars, and when cold seal. To Can Fruit. Any kind of fruit can be canned in this way. Simply boil it till tender, adding, when half done, sugar to taste. It is not necessary to have more thai* one table- spoonful to each quart, for it is not the amount of suc/ar that ensures the "keeping" of the fruit, but its being sealed while boiling hot. The less sugar used, the better, for then you get the flavor of the fresh fruit, which is so desirable in canned things. As soon as the fruit is 372 How to Cook Well thoroughly tender, and the sugar is entirely dissolved, put into jars in this way ; set the jars in a large pan of warm water at the side of the stove, having rolled them, with the tops off, in a pan of very hot water. (Be sure to see that the jars, with the rubbers and tops, are all in order, before you put the fruit to cook.) Do not have the rubbers on. With a ladle dip the hot fruit into the hot jars, putting one ladleful into each in turn, to heat them all gradually, and prevent their cracking. Then, without taking from the stove, wipe off carefully around the tops, where any of the fruit or juice has been spilled, and slip on the rubbers. With a cloth wrapped around the jar to prevent burning your fingers, hold the jar firm, while you screw on the top. When all are screwed down, begin at the first and screw more tightly ; you will find as the day goes on that this will have to be repeated several times, for as the jars cool they will shrink, thus leaving the tops loose. In this repeated tightening of the tops, lies one great secret of success in canning. If these directions are carried out, and the jars kept in a cool dark place, the fruit will keep for a year or more without any trouble ; i. e. if care is taken to use only fruit which is in prime condition (ripe, but not over ripe), and no decayed pieces are put in. Some say it is well to put a silver fork in the jars while filling them to prevent their cracking. Canned Tomatoes. Get the Trophy tomato if possible, early in Septem- ber. Scald and take off the skins. Cut in small pieces, taking care not to put in a particle of green, for that would cause them to ferment. Add no water. Heat and boil fast. If you heat slowly too much juice is drawn out. Add a little salt. Boil ten minutes. Then pour boiling hot .into glass jars, and seal at once. One half bushel fills eight quart-jars. Preserves and Jellies. 373 String Beans Canned, Just like " Canned Tomatoes." These keep well. TO MAKE JELLY. All fruit can be made into jelly by the same rule, though some kinds require less water than others in boil- ing, on account of their juciness, and less sugar is required for quinces than for other fruit. Tart fruits make the firmest jelly. Before making jelly read over directions on page 359. Boil the fruit (which should not be over ripe) in just enough water to cover it. Then strain in a bag ; without squeezing, if you want a very clear jelly. A good plan is to make jelly of the juice obtained with- out squeezing, in one kettle ; then squeeze the pulp that is left, and make an inferior jelly (suitable for jelly-cake, etc.), in a separate kettle. Measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow one pint (or one pound) of white sugar. Put the juice on the fire, and spread the sugar on platters in the oven, so that it and the juice will be hot by the same time. Leave the oven door open, and stir the sugar often to prevent burn- ing. If it docs burn, it will not be spoiled, for the lumps can be taken out after it is added to the juice. Notice when the juice begins to boil, and boil it exactly twenty minutes from the time it begins. Then add the sugar, and stir quickly, till well dissolved ; no longer. Let it boil up a moment without touching it, and then fill the glasses (prepared as for canning) without delay, before the jelly stiffens. Do not cover till cold. No jelly should be boiled for any length of time ; it darkens it and spoils the flavor. Grape Jelly. Boil the grapes without the addition of water, but mash them well. Proceed as above. Allow one pint 374 How to Cook Well of sugar to one pint of juice for ripe grapes. The green wild grapes should have one and a quarter pints sugar to one pint juice. Barberry Jelly. Proceed as with other jelly, but this will need to boil ten minutes after the sugar is added. Apple or Crab-apple Jelly. Cut the fruit in quarters without paring, and boil in enough water to cover it. There is much richness in the seeds and skins. See To Make Jelly. Quince Jelly. Proceed as with "Apple Jelly," but allow only three quarters of a pint of sugar to one pint juice, as the juice is very rich. A good jelly can be made from the skins and cores alone, left from preserving quinces. Boil them with three or four whole quinces, for a long time, till the liquor has a strong flavor. Then proceed as with other jelly, allowing one pint of sugar. Currant Jelly. (Condensed from Scribnefs Monthly.') Use the currants as soon as fully ripe. Do not wash them, but pick them over. Weigh them, without taking off the stems. Allow half a pound of granulated sugar to every pound of fruit. Put a few currants into a porce- lain-lined kettle, and press out the juice to prevent burn- ing ; then add the remainder of the fruit, and boil freely for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burn- ing. Take out and strain through a three-cornered bag, into earthen vessels, never in tin. When strained, return it to the kettle, without measuring. Let it boil thoroughly for a moment or so. Then add the sugar. The moment Catsups and Pickles. 375 the sugar is entirely dissolved, it is done, and must be im- mediately put into glasses. This receipt never fails, and it is the easiest way to make jelly. Other Jellies are all made alike. See, To Make Jelly. CATSUPS AND PICKLES. "Walnut Catsup. Gather walnuts while tender enough to run a needle through them. Pound in a marble mortar. Put them in O a preserving-kettle. Cover them with water and let them simmer for two hours. Strain out the liquor, and to every pint add one tcaspoonful each, garlic, mace and cloves. Boil it down to less than half the quantity. Fill bottles half-full, and fill up with strong vinegar. Cork tight. It is ready for use at once. Cucumber Catsup (without Cooking). 1 dozen large, ripe cucumbers. 3 onions, minced. 1 tablespoonful salt. 1 quart best vinegar. 3 red peppers, minced. Pare the cucumbers, and grate them, taking out all the seeds. Put this pulp into a bag of thin muslin, or cheese- cloth, and hang it up to drain over night. In the morn- ing throw away the liquid which has dripped out. To what is left in the bag add the ingredients given above. Stir well after putting in the vinegar, and bottle and cork tightly. This will keep well all winter, and is an extremely good relish for fish. Tomato Catsup (No. 1). Take small, red, ripe tomatoes ; wash, but do not skin 376 How to CooJc Well. them. Boil in a porcelain kettle for one hour from the time they begin to boil. Then rub them through a hair sieve. To each quart of juice add 1 table spoon ful cinnamon. tablespoonful black pepper. \ tablespoonful cayenne pepper. i a nutmeg, grated. 1 tablespoonful good mustard. i cupful salt. Taste it after stirring well together, and add more salt, if necessary. Boil all together for three hours. Then measure again, and to each quart of juice add one pint of good cider vinegar. Boil half an hour longer. Bottle hot, and seal hot. This will keep for years, and will not require to be shaken before using. No. 2. 1 gallon tomatoes. 1 pint vinegar. 9 tablespoonfuls salt. 3 tablespoonfuls black pepper. 3 tablespoonfuls mustard seed. 1 teaspoonful cayenne. k teaspoonful cloves. teaspoonful allspice. Peel, boil and strain the tomatoes ; then add the other ingredients, and boil until reduced one half. Bottle and seal while hot. Cold Catsup (no Cooking). j J peck ripe tomatoes. I Salt. 2 roots horse-radish (grated). cupful salt. cupful white mustard seed. i cupful black mustard seed. 1 cupful fine chopped onion. 1 cupful sugar. 1 tablespoonful black pepper. 2 red peppers cut fine (without seed). 6 heads celery chopped fine. 1 teaspoonful ground cloves. 2 teaspoonfuls ground cinna- mon. l pints vinegar. Slice the tomatoes fine. Sprinkle salt lightly over them and let them stand two hours. Measure out the other ingredients and mix them together. Then drain the tomatoes well, put them in the mixture, and stir all thoroughly together. Seal in jars. Catsups and Pickles. 377 English Chertney. 4 pounds tomatoes. 3 pounds raisins. G large onions (grated). 1 pound salt. 1 ounce cayenne pepper. 1 quart vinegar. 2 pounds brown sugar. " Bake " the tomatoes. " Stone " and chop the raisins. Mix all together, mashing the tomatoes fine. Stir occa- sionally for a day or two, then bottle. No more cooking is necessary. Chili Sauce. (^1 Nice JSelish for Cold Meat.) 1 bushel ripe tomatoes, peeled. 2 dozen onions. 1C large red peppers. 1 pint salt. 18 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. 2i quarts vinegar. Chop the tomatoes, onions and peppers. Boil all to- gether for a long time. Seal while hot. Spiced Currants. (To eat with Meats.) 5 pounds ripe currants, stemmed. 4 pounds sugar. 1 pint vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls cloves. 2 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. Boil all together half an hour. Put into jars and seaJ when cold. This will keep for years. Pickled Blackberries. 3 quarts blackberries. I 1 quart brown sugar. 1 quart vinegar. Boil all together for ten minutes and seal hot. Nasturtium Seed (without boiling). Gather the seed, while green, and drop them as you collect them, into a bottle of cold vinegar. Ready for use in six months. They are an excellent substitute for capers. 378 How to Cook Well. Sliced Cucumbers. Slice one dozen ordinary-sized cucumbers and on* 1 dozen lemons. Sprinkle with salt, and let stand for two hours. Drain well, and have ready on the stove boiling vinegar with pepper. Drop in the cucumbers and let them come to a boil. Then put into glass jars and seal. Use spices, if you like. These are like a dish of fresh cucumbers. Pickled Apples. 1 quart good vinegar. G cupfuls brown sugar. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. Apples sweet or sour, but firm. 1 teaspoonful cloves. Bring the vinegar and sugar to a boil. Remove the scum and put in the spices. Pare, core and quarter the apples, and put them into the syrup. Let them boil very slowly until they can be easily pierced with a broom straw. Pickled Pears. 1 peck hard pears. 1 ounce cinnamon. 1 ounce cloves. 1 ounce white mustard seed. 2 quarts vinegar. 3 pounds brown sugar. While the vinegar and sugar and spices are heating, peel the pears, but do not core them. Leave the stems on. (If you choose you need not even peel them.) Lay in the pears, and boil slowly, having the kettle covered. When tender take them out, put them in a stone jar, and pour the liquor (boiling hot) over them. When cold, tie a cloth over the top of the jar. Sweet Pickle. (Pmrs, Peaches or Cherries.} Pare peaches and pears. Stone peaches and cherries. To seven pounds of fruit, allow 3i pounds good brown sugar. 1 pint vinegar. 1 ounce mace. 1 ounce cloves. 1 ounce cinnamon. Put the fruit in a jar. Boil the vinegar and spice (tied Catsups and PicJdes. 379 in a bag) together, and pour while hot over the fruit. Let it stand two days. Then pour off the vinegar. Bring it to a boil and put in the fruit. Boil all together until clear. Put into a jar, and when cold tie a cloth over. Sweet Cucumber Pickles, or Water-Melon Rind. 12 ripe cucumbers. 2 quarts vinegar. 2 pounds sugar. 1 ounce cloves (whole). 1 ounce cinnamon (stick). Salt. Pare and quarter the cucumbers, and scrape out the seeds and inside, leaving only the rind. Sprinkle them with salt and let them stand over night, to draw out the bitterness. In the morning rinse off the salt, and put them in a porcelain kettle, with the vinegar, sugar and spices, in a bag. Boil all together slowly twenty minutes. Take out the cucumbers when tender and boil the liquor for half an hour longer. Pour it over the cucumbers while hot. Put them in a stone jar with the bag of spices. It will keep a year even if unsealed. Water-melon rind, pared, may be pickled in the same way. If you wish you may leave the cloves out of the bag, and stick them into the rind. It ensures their keeping, if after a few days the liquor is drained off, boiled over again, and poured over the pickles once more. Pickled Cabbage. 1 large firm head of cabbage. i dozen onions. Salt. 1 pint vinegar. 1 cupful sugar. 1 teaspoonful ground mustard. 1 teaspoonful black pepper. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. 1 teaspoonful turmeric. 1 teaspoonful mace. 1 teaspoonful allspice. 1 teaspoonful celery seed. Remove the outside leaves of the cabbage and shave fine ; chop the onions. Put them in layers with the salt, and leave for twenty-four hours. Then scald the vinegar ; 380 How to Cook Well add the sugar and spices, and boil for a few minutes. Add the cabbage and onions drained ; simmer for half an hour, and put into jars. Red cabbage may be mixed with the white. Pickled Cabbage (without boiling). Shave a head of cabbage, and pack firmly in a jar, with layers of salt, pepper and two tablespoonfuls white mus- tard seed (also two red peppers, and two heads celery, chopped, if you like). Pour cold vinegar over all. Sprinkle the top with powdered cloves. Cover with a small plate, with a weight on it (a stone will do) to keep the cabbage under the vinegar. Cover the jar. This will be ready to use in about a week and will keep sev- eral months. Pickled Cucumbers. Take small cucumbers. Wash them carefully and place in stone jars. Make a weak brine (a handful of salt to one and a half gallons of water). When scalding hot, turn over the cucumbers and cover. Repeat this three mornings in succession, taking care to skim thor- oughly. On the fourth day put a piece of alum, the size of a walnut, into a porcelain kettle of vinegar. Make it scalding hot and then put in as many cucumbers as the vinegar will cover. Do not let them boil, but take them out as soon as scalded through, and replace with others, adding each time a small piece of alum. (The alum is to make the pickles crisp.) When this process is through, throw out the vinegar; and replace with good cider or white wine vinegar and spices in the following proportion : 1 gallon vinegar. 1 cupful sugar. 2 or three red peppers (or green). 14 dozen allspice, whole. 1 dozen blades mace. 3 tablespoonfuls white mus- tard seed. 3 dozen cloves, whole. While this is heating, sort the pickles, and place in Catsups and Pickles. 381 stone, or glass jars. When the spiced vinegar is scalding hot, pour it over the pickles. Seal, and put away the jars not needed for immediate use. Pickles thus prepared are still fine and crisp at the end of a year. Dutch Cucumbers. Boil and skim three gallons of water, and two pounds of coarse salt. Select cucumbers from six to eight inches long. Wash and wipe them carefully ; then put a layer of them in a big stone jar; one that will hold at least four gallons. Then put in a layer of grape leaves and a bunch of dill seed on the stalk. Go on in 'this way till the jar is full, topping it with plenty of cabbage leaves. On the very top put a large stone. Fill up with the brine, and let it stand. Quiet fermentation takes place. In about two or three weeks your cucumbers are done, and ought to be transparent, like amber, with a sub-acid flavor. Mustard Pickle. 1 quart onions. 1 quart tomatoes. 1 quart cucumbers. 1 quart cauliflower. 2 quarts vinegar. J cupful flour. \ pound ground mustard. J teaspoonful cayenne pep- per. J ounce curcuma. cupful sugar. Chop the onions and tomatoes, slice the cucumbers, pick up the cauliflower, and put them to soak over night in a weak brine (i. e., cold water slightly salted). In the morning, drain, and boil them fifteen or twenty minutes in the vinegar and sugar, reserving a part with which to moisten the flour, mustard, pepper and curcuma. Add these and boil ten minutes longer. The curcuma is to give it a handsome color, and is ob- tained at a drug store. You can omit soaking the night before; in that case add salt while boiling. 382 How to Cook Well. Picalily (No. 1). \ bushel green tomatoes. 1 dozen onions (large). 1 dozen green peppers. 1 pint salt. Vinegar. 2 pounds brown sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls cinnamon. 1 tablespoonful allspice. 1 tablespoonful cloves. 1 tablespoonf ul pepper, i cupful mixed mustard. 1 pint grated horse-radish. Chop rather fine the tomatoes, onions and peppers. Mix well together, and drain off the juice. Put in a jar with layers of salt over night. In the morning drain off all the juice, squeezing as dry as possible. Cover with vine- gar, and boil slowly for one hour in a porcelain kettle. Drain off the vinegar and pack in jars. Put into a kettle the sugar and spices, the mustard and horse-radish, with enough fresh vinegar to cover the pickles. Let it come to a boil. Then pour, boiling hot, over the pickles. When cold, cover closely. No. 2. 1 gallon green tomatoes, chopped line. 1 quart onions, chopped fine. pint salt. Mix and leave it to stand over night. In the morning drain well, and add 4 green peppers, chopped fine. 4 teaspoonfuls mustard seed. 2 teaspoonfuls black pepper. 2 teaspoonfuls cloves. 2 teaspoonfuls allspice. 4 teaspoonfuls celery-seed. 1 cupful sugar. 3 pints cider vinegar. Boil all for about fifteen minutes. A little ginger and cinnamon may also be added, if liked. Pickles Without Boiling. 4 quarts green tomatoes. I Salt. 5 large onions. Chop coarsely, or slice the tomatoes and onions. Put For the Sick. 383 them in layers with salt between and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then drain and mix in 2 ounces white mustard seed. li tablespoonfuls cloves (ground). l tablespoon fuls ginger (ground). li tablespoonfuls allspice. li tablespoonfuls pepper. i cupful mustard (dry). Cover with cold vinegar ; mix well before putting into jars, and seal it up. Excellent and very easily made. Heady for use in one month. Keeps only one year. FOR THE SICK. REMARKS. Never consult the sick about what they shall eat, but notice for yourself what they do and do not like. If you find something that has suited their taste, do not over- whelm them with too constant a repetition of it. Make con- stant variety. Serve daintily, with the prettiest dishes you have, and remove the tray from the sick-room as soon as the meal is over. If a little blanc mange or pudding is made for an invalid, have it in a little mould by itself. This is much more appetizing than a piece cut from a large pudding. Menu for Convalescents. Mutton Broth. Chicken Broth. White Soup. Clam Broth. Raw Oysters. Stewed Oysters. Poultry Hash (use dark meat only). Boiled Chicken. Raw Tomatoes. Baked Potatoes. Stewed Potatoes. Panada. Water Crackers with Jelly. Toasted Crackers. Milk Toast. Dipped Toast. Milk Cracker Toast. 384 How to Coo7t Well. Menu for Convalescents. (Continued.) Quail on Toast. Broiled Birds. Beef Sandwiches. Panned Oysters. Scrambled Eggs. Poached Eggs. Boiled Eggs. Baked Omelet. Sweet-Breads. Frogs' Legs. Boiled Rice. Boiled Macaroni. Milan Macaroni. Cereals of all kinds (see Break- fast). Stewed Celery. Poor Man's Pudding. Fruit. Baked Apples. Apples Stewed Whole. Clarified Apples. Stewed Berries, etc. Ices and Ice Creams. Iced Tea. Lemonade, Orangeade. Cocoa. Cream Puffs. Cream Pie. Custards. Blanc Mange. " Delicacies for Dessert." Beef for the Sick. The juiciest meat lies on the top of the round, in the large round muscle. Never use fat meat for an invalid. O The following ways of preparing beef are contributed by a trained nurse of much experience, at one time head of the Massachusetts Training School for Nurses. Beef Juice. Lay one pound lean beef cut in thick strips on a grid- iron, and hold it over a clear fire for a moment to draw the juice to the surface. Then squeeze the strips in a lemon-squeezer. Add a little salt and give cold, a spoon- ful or two at a time, in cases of extreme illness. Even infants may take it when they are much reduced. It is very easily assimilated, and much to be preferred to beef tea in serious illnesses. One pound of meat yields about three tablespoonfuls of juice. If preferred hot, heat by setting the cup containing the juice in another of hot water; otherwise it will curdle. This of course is much stronger than beef tea. For the Sick. 385 Beef Tea. Cut lean beef into small pieces. Pour cold water over it, a little more than to cover it. Let it stand for two hours. Then put into a sauce-pan all together, adding a very little water, cover and simmer very slowly till the juice is all extracted, and the meat like leather. Then salt it slightly and strain. Beef Tea for Convalescents. 1 ounce butter, hot. 1 small onion (minced). 1 saltspoonful salt. pints cold water. 1 pound lean beef. Fry the onion in the butter till delicately browned. Add the beef, cut into small pieces, and stir till like thin gravy. Add then the salt and water, and simmer gently for three quarters of an hour. Skim off every particle of fat, if there is any, and serve hot with small squares of toast. Beef in Various Ways. 1 pound lean beef. 2 wineglasses sherry. 1 tablespooiifnl sugar. Lemon-juice to taste. 1 heaping tablespoonful gela- tine. Cut up the beef ; put it in a bottle ; cork tightly ; plunge it into boiling water, and boil until the juice is extracted (about two hours). To this juice add the sherry and other ingredients, and pour it into little moulds to cool. This cannot be distinguished from ordinary jelly, and is much more nourishing. Another. Chop fine o.ne pound lean beef. Add one and one half pints cold water, eight drops muriatic acid, and one pinch of salt. Let it stand one hour; drain off the liquid without pressure, and add half a pint of cold water. Strain and give iced as a drink. It will not keep long in warm weather. Another. To one pint chopped beef add one pint water; place it in a covered vessel, and cook very slowly, 386 How to Cook Well until the beef is hard. Strain off the juice, which should be a clear liquid like water. Freeze it and give in lumps like cracked ice. A little celery salt, or A few bits of celery. Another. 1 pound beef. 1 tumbler milk. 1 teaspoonful cornstarch. Extract the juice of the beef in a bottle (as in the first method). Boil the milk ; thicken it with the cornstarch and add it to the juice. Flavor with the celery salt, or with the bits of celery. If you use the last, boil them in the milk and take them out before serving. Hints on Giving Milk. When milk cannot be retained, add four tablespoonfuls lime-water to one pint of milk, and give in small quanti- ties, beginning with one teaspoonful at short intervals. The quantity may be increased when more can be taken. Milk made lukewarm, or milk made very hot, but not boiled, can sometimes be retained when cold milk is re- jected. The latter is excellent to induce sleep, taken after getting into bed. Boiled milk, given cold, is the best form for use when there is diarrhoea. Milk in the form of " Junket " makes a soft and di- gestible blanc mange. Cream and water can often be digested when milk cannot. Albuminized Milk. Break the whites of two eggs into one pint of milk. Shake well in a bottle or self-sealing jar, until they are thoroughly incorporated. This is a valuable food in fever or cases of debility. It may be flavored with rose water or extract of vanilla for convalescents. For the Sick. 387 Albuminized Lemonade. Put into a self-sealing jar one pint of water, the juice of two lemons, the whites of two eggs, and three table- spoonfuls of sugar. Shake the jar until the contents are thoroughly mixed. More sugar may be added if required. Koumiss. 1 quart milk. | l tablespoonfuls liquid yeast. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Use morning's milk before the cream rises. Dissolve the sugar in as little water as possible, and add that and the yeast to the milk. Mix well. Let it stand in an earthen dish near the fire for four or five hours, as you would yeast till the surface is covered with bubbles. Then put into two champagne bottles, each holding a quart (i. e. put one and one half pints koumiss in each bottle, for the bottles should not be filled to the top). Cork tight and tie securely. Leave the bottles upright for three, four or five days, in a temperature of from fifty degrees to sixty- five degrees. When ready for use, there will be a leakage around the corks. Set on ice before drinking. It should be used within a week at farthest. It is well to draw it off by a syphon, as it will not keep after being uncorked. This is very delicate and is easily retained by a weak stomach, when ordinary milk cannot be taken. Graham Gruel. f i cupful Graham flour. I f 1 quart boiling water. \ i cupful cold water. | \ 2 teaspoonf uls salt. Stir the flour smooth in the cold water. Pour it into the salted boiling water, over the fire, stirring smooth as you put it in. Cover, and leave it to boil for an hour. (N. B. It is best to boil it in a double-boiler, as it will not then scorch.) Serve as it is, or with the addition of a little milk, if the patient can take it. 388 now to Cook Well. Oatmeal Gruel, i cupful oatmeal. | 1 quart milk or water. Boil slowly together until the oatmeal is well cooked. Then pass through a sieve, adding salt or sugar to taste. Another (more delicate). 1 cupful oatmeal. | 1 quart water. Mix together and let it stand over night. In the morn- ing drain off the water, add one saltspoonful of salt, and boil till it thickens. This can be given in cases of severe illness. Oatmeal Cordial. 1 quart water. tahlespoonfuls oatmeal. pinches mace. pinches grated nutmeg. l.| teaspoonfuls ground cinnamon. 1 lemon, juice only. 8 tablespoonfuls tine sugar. 1 pint wine. Boil the water. Mix the oatmeal and spices in a cupful of cold water and stir into the boiling water. Boil ten minutes. Put in the lemon juice and sugar, and stir gently and constantly. Then add the wine. Boil all for a few minutes, and strain. Use Robertson's Prepared Oatmeal. A Very Delicate Egg Gruel. Beat one egg in a bowl. Add salt, a little parsley (may be omitted) and a teacupful of boiling water. Stir fast as you pour it in. Cut into small pieces a slice of toasted bread, and pour the gruel over it. This makes just enough for one person. Another. Beat the yolk of one egg with one table- spoonful of sugar. On this pour two thirds of a cupful boiling water. Beat the white of the egg stiff, with one teaspoonful of tine sugar, flavor to taste, and put on top. A little wine for flavor, or tart jelly, is excellent.. For the Sick. 389 A Hearty Egg Gruel. ( Very Nourishing.} Boil eggs two hours. Mash the yolks fine. Boil new milk and stir gradually upon the mashed yolks, until of the consistency of cream, or thinner. Add a little salt. Excellent in case of nausea. Barley Water. pound pearl barley. A little salt. 2 quarts cold water. Wash thoroughly in one water. Pour this off, and soak till morning in the two quarts of water. Then boil in the same water till reduced one half. Skim while boil- ing ; strain when done and salt it to taste. If allowed, a little lemon juice may be added. The barley that re- mains in the strainer is very good to eat like oatmeal, with cream and sugar, if salted first. Another. (3/ore quickly made.) 2 ounces pearl barley. I 2 quarts hot water. 1 cupful cold water. | A little salt. Wash in one water only. Drain, then pour over it the cupful of cold water and boil fifteen minutes. Throw away this water, and pour over the barley the two quarts hot water. Add salt. Boil until reduced one half (about one and one half hours). Then strain. Use in fever cases. Compound Barley Water. 2 pints barley water. 2 ounces figs (sliced). 24 ounces raisins (seeded). 1 pint soft water. 5 drachms licorice root (sliced). For barley water (see above). Boil all together until you have two pints of liquid. Then strain. Omit the licorice if the patient dislikes it. Good in cases of soreness, and good for a cold on the lungs. 390 How to Cook Well. Flour Gruel or Thickened Milk. {1 cupful boiling water. 1 cupful boiling milk. J teaspoonf ul salt. 2 teaspoonfuls flour. Boil the water, milk and salt together. Rub the flour very smooth in enough cold water to cover it, and add to that which is boiling. Stir well, and boil half an hour. Then serve hot. It may be made of milk alone, but is then too hearty for many sick persons. Good for diarrhea, especially if made with part water. Arrowroot Gruel. Rub two teaspoonfuls Bermuda arrowroot to a smooth paste, in enough cold water to cover it. Pour on it one cupful boiling water, stirring fast. Add salt, and boil for a minute. Serve hot with lemon juice and sugar, if allowed. Or, it may be made with milk instead of water. This is used in cases of diarrhoea, and is easily digested. Corn Meal Gruel. 1 quart boiling water. cupful corn meal. teaspoonful salt. Make like Flour Gruel, but boil one full hour. Raisin Gruel. i cupful raisins. 1 pint water. 1 pint milk. A pinch of salt. 1 tablespoonful sugar. li tablespoonfuls flour. Boil the raisins in the water until it is reduced one half. Then pour into a bag and squeeze. When cold stir the juice thus obtained into the milk. Boil with the salt and sugar. Thicken with the flour, and boil all together half an hour. Serve hot. If the raisins are stoned, cut in halves and served in the gruel, it is called Plum Porridge. For the Sick. 391 Caudle. 2 cnpfuls "Rice Water." !1 egg (yolk only). 1 tablespoonf ul sugar. 1 winegiassful wine. A little grated nutmeg. Pour the rice water boiling hot upon the egg, beaten with the sugar and wine, stirring it in gradually, so as not to curdle. Then add the nutmeg. Rice Water. Boil very little rice in plenty of water, salted slightly. When the water becomes a little thick and tastes strongly of the rice, strain it off and serve hot or cold. For diarrhoea or feeble digestion. Pood for a Delicate Infant. (Dr. 3fe.igs, Philadelphia.) / 17| drachms pure " milk-sugar." X 1 pint hot water. Dissolve the sugar in the water. Mix together 3 tablespoonf uls of this liquid. I 1 tablespoonful milk. 2 tablespoonf uls cream. | 2 tablespoonf uls lime water. Warm the mixture, and the food is ready. The cream should not be very rich. If the child cannot digest milk, substitute " Whey." When the child is older, double the quantity without changing the proportion. If less is re- quired, measure with a teaspoon. The "milk-sugar" can be obtained at a druggist's. The seventeen and three quarters drachms are of " Apoth- ecary's Weight." It keeps well, when dry, for an indefi- nite time ; but when dissolved it sours in a day or two. The whey will keep for a day or two. This is excellent. Whey. 1 quart milk. | 1 tablespoonful prepared rennet. Mix and leave to stand half an hour in a warm place. Then cut it in all directions with a knife ; half an hour 392 How to CooJc Well later, pour off the whey. Leave the curd undisturbed and more whey will be formed. Nothing can be better than this in cases of inflammation of the stomach. Give a teaspoonful at a time, very often. This will often enable the stomach to retain other nourishment. Excel- lent for feeble infants. Wine Whey 1 cupful boiling milk. I Sugar. 2 table spoonfuls sherry wine. I When the milk just reaches the boiling point, add the wine, but do not stir it. Boil a moment. Take it from the fire gently and let it cool in the same vessel, without any stirring after the wine is put in. When the curd forms, strain off the whey. Sweeten, and serve hot or cold. Flaxseed Tea. >2 tablespoonfuls whole flax seed. 1 lemon. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 1 1 pint boiling water. Boil the flaxseed and water fifteen minutes. Slice the lemon into a pitcher, and add the sugar. Strain the hot flaxseed tea upon it and stir. Good for a cough or sore throat. Take a drink often. Take it hot al night. Rock-candy is the best sweetening. Chicken Tea. Pour one pint cold water over a leg and thigh of a chicken. (Use the rest for fricassee.) Let it come to a boil. Add salt, and skim well. Strain. Irish Moss Lemonade. 2 quarts boiling water. I 2 lemons, sliced. 1 handful sea-moss. I h cupful sugar. Put all together in a pitcher, having washed the moss well. Stir, to dissolve the sugar. Let it stand two hours. Take it occasionally for a bad cold, or hoarseness. For tlie SicJc. 393 Dried Flour Gruel. Tie one cupful of white flour tightly in a thick cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and boil steadily six hours. Then take it out of the cloth, and let the lump become perfectly dry. Then pare off the outer rind. To use it, scrape off one dessertspoonful, rub it smooth in cold water, and stir into one cupful boiling milk (salted). This is for diarrhoea, or for teething children. Egg-Nogg. Beat the yolk of an egg with one teaspoonful sugar, in a tumbler. Add half a cupful of milk. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of wine, whiskey, or rum, and stir in lightly the white of the egg (beaten stiff). Cover with grated nutmeg. If the patient cannot take milk, prepare the egg without it, or as below. Egg Lemonade. Beat the yolk and white of one egg separately. Then beat them well together. Make half a tumblerful of strong lemonade, well sweetened, and stir thoroughly into the beaten egg. Mulled Jelly. Beat one tablespoonful red or black currant-jelly with the white of an egg and a little sugar. Pour over it a small cupful of boiling water. Break a cracker in it, or a thin slice of toasted bread. Ice-cold water (if allowed) may be poured over beaten jelly and egg, instead of boiling water. Coffee with Egg. If a person likes coffee, the yolk of an egg may be stirred into a cupful of very strong coffee, which is then to be diluted with boiling milk to the proper strength for drinking. The egg increases the nourishment, and its 394 How to Cook Well. presence is not perceptible. This is a good way to get a fanciful invalid to take nourishment. The same thing can be done with cocoa. Egg Poached in Broth. Put in a pan enough broth or stock to cover an egg. Proceed as with " Poached Eggs," but moisten the toast thoroughly with the broth, before laying the egg on it. Be sure to season it well. Steamed Egg. Beat one egg very light; season with a little pepper, salt, and a tiny lump of butter; pour it over a slice of dry, buttered toast. Set the plate containing the toast in the steamer, and let it steam for two or three minutes. Egg Sandwiches. Boil an egg four hours. Then mash the yolk, season with salt and pepper (and add a little lemon juice if allowed, and celery salt) and spread between thin slices of buttered bread. Egg cooked in this way is good for dyspeptics. Sherry Toast. Make a nice piece of toast, and moisten it with sherry. Scatter sugar plentifully over the top. Orange or lemon- juice may be used in the same way. It is a grateful change to any one tired of plain toast. Haw Beef Cakes. Mix two thirds of raw beefsteak, grated, with one third of browned cracker, rolled fine. (Be sure to leave in no coarse fibres of meat.) Season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Make into little round, flat cakes, and cover the outside thick with browned cracker. Besides being nutritious, these beef cakes are quite palatable, and one would never suspect them of being made of uncooked meat. Parched corn, ground in a coffee-mill, may be used instead of the crackers, and is quite an improvement. For tlie Sick. 305 Meat Paste. (To be given frequently in cases of extreme exhaustion from diarrhoea or other causes.) Shred as fine as possible a small piece of raw moat (lecf, mutton or chicken). Then rub it through a sieve, so as to form a smooth paste. Mix a piece the size of a pea with a little cream and sugar. Or it may bt given as a sandwich, between thin slices of bread and butter. (By an eminent London physician.) Chicken Panada. Take the dark meat of a chicken which has l>een either roasted or boiled ; free it from the skin, and cut into very small pieces. Bruise these in a mortar, with an equal quantity of stale bread, and a little salt, adding by de- grees, either the water in which the chicken was boiled, or some beef tea, until the whole forms a paste. Put it into a pan, and boil for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Serve very hot. Oranum Gruel. 1 cupful rich chicken broth. 1 cupful milk. 3 tahlcspoonfuls Imperial Granum. A little salt. Heat the broth with half of the milk. Stir the granum smoothly into the other half of the milk. When the broth is ready to boil, stir in the moistened granum. Add a little salt, and boil a few minutes. This is delicious. It may be made thinner if preferred. Cherries for a Cold. Fill a bottle loosely with wild black cherries crush- ing about a dozen of them, stones, and all. Fill up the bottle with New Orleans molasses. Tie mosquito netting over the top, and leave it to ferment. Fill up once a^ain. When it has stopped ferment ing, cork up tight. Fit for use at once. Dose, a teaspoonful three times a day. 396 How to Cook Well. To Make a Saucerful of Ice Cream in Fifteen Minutes. Mix a small quantity of any of the "Ice Creams" given. Put it into a covered pint can, and put the can in a half- gallon pail of pounded ice or snow, with a large proportion of coarse salt mixed in. Shake the can gently until the cream begins to freeze, then leave it to set. It ought to freeze in about ten or fifteen minutes. Do not let the salt water get into the can. This is very easily made, with very little trouble, as it needs no " freezer." Cracker Panada. Just like Bread Panada (below) but do not toast the crackers, which should be split. Merely set the bowl in the heater for an hour, no boiling being necessary. Bread Panada. Pare off the crusts from thin slices of bread. Toast them delicately. Fill a deep bowl with them, sprinkling sugar and salt (or salt alone) between the layers. Pour into the bowl enough boiling water to cover the toast. Cover with a saucer. Set the bowl into a kettle of boil- ing water, and boil gently till the toast is like jelly. Eat warm with sugar and nutmeg. MISCELLANEOUS. To Preserve Eggs for Winter Use. (Use an old jar, for a nice one will be stained by the lime.) To three gallons of water put one pint of salt and one pound of quick-lime. Stir all together, and let it stand ten days, before putting in the eggs. Put them in a few at a time, as you get them, fresh. If they rise to the top, when put in, the lime-water is too strong, and the eggs will be cooked. In that case add water until they sink. Eggs put up in this way will keep a year. Jfiscetlaneoiis. 397 Another Way. Pack the eggs in layers, in bran, the small end clown- wards. This should be done in a l>ox, and the box kept in a cool, dry place. Corn meal or sawdust may be used ; but the bran is less likely to gather moisture. Another. Wrap each egg carefully in newspaper, and pack them, small end downward, in boxes or jars. To Bottle Cider. Put into every quart-bottle you use, two raisins and one tablespoonful sugar. Fill nearly to the top with sweet cider. Put in the corks and tie down firmly. Keady for use in six weeks, but improved by being kept for six months, when it will be like champagne. Very good for nausea. Japanese Cream. (For washing paint, glass and marble, and cleansing boys' clothes, spots on carjtets, etc.) 5 quarts soft water. 4 ounces white rastile soap. 4 ounces ammonia. 2 ounces ether. 2 ounces alcohol. 1 ounce glycerine. Cut the soap fine and dissolve it in one quart of the water over the fire. Add then the rest of the water with the other ingredients. Mix all together well and put away in bottles. To use it, wet a soft flannel with it, and rub the spots. Then sponge off with clean hot water and rub dry with a clean cloth. Soft Soap. Try out carefully all scraps of grease and fat. The fat of beef, mutton, and poultry, can all be used ; but it should not be allowed to accumulate for as long as a week before trying out. Each day try out what has been left from the meals of the day before, and then the fat will be clean and fresh. The result should l>e firm, hard , < K ;u and unstruakcd, quite equal in appearance 398 How to Cook Well. to the best lard. When you have six pounds of the grease, put it in a large iron pot. Add to it fourteen quarts warm water, and one and one third cans Babbitt's concentrated potash. This is white, like salt, and very strong indeed. Let it come gradually to a boil, but do not let it boil. Set it on the back of the stove, or range, and let it simmer there all day. Let it remain there all night. Melt it out in the morning, and when it is quite melted pour it into whatever vessel you intend to keep the soap in. This quantity will make a full half-barrel. After pouring it in add two pailfuls of boiling water, and stir briskly for some minutes with a stick, or a heavy clothes-paddle, if you have one; ten or fifteen minutes if you can. By evening you can add another pailful and stir it up again. The next morning it may need the same treatment, for the mixture may be quite stiff and hard. It may need five or six pailfuls before it is of the right consistency ; i. e., a soft and ropy jelly. It will improve by keeping. If properly made, it will be of an ivory white, and will not make the hands smart. It is as good to use for silver as for clothes. Pickle to Cure Hams. 8 pounds ground alum salt. 1 quart molasses. 2 ounces salt petre. ounces of potash or saler- atus. gallons water. Allow the above to every one hundred pounds of meat. Boil the mixture, skim well, and when cold pour it over the hams. Cottage Cheese. Heat sour milk, or clabber (or both mixed) over the fire, till the- whey separates from the curd. Drain and put the curd in a thin bag to drip for five or six hours. Then take out the curd and work in a little salt and cream, or butter. Then form into small balls, and serve Miscellaneous. 399 in a few hours. It will not keep longer than two or three days. This is a good way to use up an accumulation of sour milk in summer. It takes a great deal of milk to make ljut a small amount of cheese. To Raise Cream Quickly. Set the milk in shallow pans and keep them in a tem- perature not less than sixty-two degrees. People often wonder why they can get no cream from milk in winter ; it is because the milk is often left in too cold a place. Boiled Chestnuts. Put the chestnuts into tepid water. Notice when they begin to boil. Then boil/tof for fifteen minutes. Pour them into a colander to drain. Stir in, then, a small piece of butter, while the chestnuts are hot. Mix well till they look glossy and dry. Chocolate Frosting (No. 2) or Caramels. 1 cupful -rratrt I chocolate. 2 cupfuls sugar. 2 eggs (yolks only). | cupful milk. Mix all together, having beaten the eggs. Set on the stove, and boil (without stirring) for about fifteen min- utes from the time it begins to boil ; i. e., till it will al- most candy when dripped from a spoon. Then set it in a pan of hot water while you spread it on the cake, with a knife dipped in hot water. This will cover six large layers of cake, just enough for " Chocolate Cake No. 2," with which it is nice; the chocolnte in the cake-batter being omitted. By boiling this mixture a little longer you can make caramels, if you pour it into a buttered shallow pan, and mark it into squares. 400 How to Coo7c Well Things Made Poor Man's Pudding. Corn Bread Without Eggs. Junket. Tapioca and Sago Blanc Mange. Apple and Berry Tapioca Pud- ding. Blanc Mange (many kinds) . Jelly Cake without eggs. Lemon, Wine, Cider and Other Jellies. Without Eggs. Buttermilk Griddle-Cakes. Brown Betty. Fruit and Berry Charlotte. Apple Dumplings. Pies. Whipped Syllabubs. Cinnamon Cookies. Cornmeal Pudding. Gingerbread Pudding. Squash Pudding. To Use Whites of Eggs. Frosting for Cake. White Cake. Snow Cake. Kisses or Meringues. [Pie. Cocoanut Cake, Pudding and Cream Beer. Apple Snow. Raspberry Trifle. Nonsense. Meringues for Puddings. Filling for Charlotte llusse. To Clear Coffee. To Egg and Crumb. Silver Cake. English Muffins. German Sauce. Rich Pudding Sauce. Aglaia Sauce. Lemon, Orange or Peach Ice. Chocolate. Chocolate Cake No. 2. French Candies. To Use Mayonnaise Dressing. To Egg and Crumb. Boiled Custards. Gold Cake. Lemon Filling for Cake. Cottage or Gold Pudding. Cocoa or Chocolate. White Soup. Yolks of Eggs. Oyster Boulette. Sauce Hollandaise. Wine Sauce No. 2. Stuffed Peppers. Ribbon Blanc Mange. Rich Cornstarch Blanc Mange. Gooseberry Fool. Chocolate Frosting or Caramels. To Use Milk. Milk Toast. Cracker Milk Toast. Bread and Milk. Popovers. Potato or Lenten Soup. Tomato Soup (No. 2). Indian and Bread Puddings. Griddle Cakes and Waffles. Muffins. Junket. Ice Cream. Spanish Fritters. Miscellaneous. 401 To Use Milk. (Continued.) Stewed Oysters (or Soup). Clam Soup. Chowder. Stewed Potatoes. Cocoa or Chocolate. Cafe au lait. Mont Blanc. Custards and Blanc Manges. Tapioca and Rice Puddings. Delmonico Pudding. Corn Pudding. In Cooking Vegetables. Omelet (Baked and Fried). Cream to serve with Fruit Pies. Fritters. Succotash. Pies. (Sweet Potato, Custard, Cornstarch and Pumpkin.) Macaroni (boiled or baked). Thickened Milk. To Use Sour Milk. Corn Bread. Sour Milk Graham Gems. Griddle Cakes (various). Shortcake. Grandpa's Cake. Huckleberry Cake. Graham Pudding. Popovers. Apple Fritters. Hasting's Pudding. Doughnuts. Cottage Cheese. Cinnamon Cookies. Cottage Pudding. To Use Apples. Baked Apples. Apple Sauce. Clarified Apples. Apples Stewed Whole. Apple Jelly. Preserved Apples. Transparent Preserve. Pickled Apples. Apple Snow. Fried Apples. Apple Pie. In Mince Pies. Brown Betty. Apple Cottage Pudding. Apple Short Cake. Apple and Tapioca Pudding. Scotch Pudding. Pan Dowdy. Jellied Apples. Marlborough Pudding. Veal aux Pommes. Apple Custard. Hidden Hash. Hidden Apples. Apple Dumplings. Apple Meringue. Apple Filling for Cake. Apple Fritters. Birds' Nest Pudding. 402 Afterthoughts. AFTERTHOUGHTS. Two or three remarks are here made, which were overlooked in their proper connection. Under TEA, attention should have been called to the fact that almost every receipt given under Breakfast and Luncheon is also suited to Tea. Under COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES, the statement should have been made that any receipt given for Cookies may be used for Drop-Cakes, by simply putting in less flour (there should be just enough for a spoon to stand alone in the dough) and drop- ping from a teaspoon in heaps a little apart in a buttered pan. This is, of course, much more quickly done than the rolling out of cookies. Under TO BAKE CAKE, it should have been mentioned that if cake is liable to burn, a thick paper should be laid over the top, or a pan of cold water set above it in the oven. Under PUDDINGS, the reader should have been told how to judge whether a pudding is done. When done, it will look dry around the edges, and there will no longer be a sunken spot in the middle. ALPHABETICAL INDEX. is important to study the " General Directions" and to read carefully the "Remarks" at the beginning of every division before trying these receipts. A Cream to serve with Fruit Pies .... A French Receipt for Cro- quettes A hearty Egg Gruel . A list of uses for Bread- Crumbs A list of uses for Pieces of Bread .... A plain Rice Pudding . A pretty way to serve Orange Ice . . . A Rich Chowder . . . A Rich Ice Cream . . A simple way to serve Lobster A Summer Medley . . A " Swell" Pudding . . A tempting dish for Lun- cheon A very delicate Cracker Pudding .... A very delicate Egg Gruel An appetizing Breakfast- Dish Aglaia Sauce .... Albuminized Lemonade . Albuminized Milk PACK. 214 83 389 310 3Q9 227 281 130 278 140 204 227 78 233 388 29 249 387 380 PAGE. Alleghany Corn Muffins . 47 Almond Blanc-mange . . 265 Almond Cake . . . 333,334 Almonds to Blanch . . 13 Amber Pudding . . . 244 Anchovy Toast .... 65 Angel Cake 337 Anglo-Fran^ais Pie . . 224 Apple and Lemon Pre- serve 364 Apple and Potato Stuffing 149 " Charlotte . . . 231 " Cottage Pudding . 229 " Custard .... 272 " Custard Pie . - . 219 " Dumplings . . 224, 247 " Filling for Cake . 321 " Floating Island . 272 " Fritters .... 96 " Jelly 374 " Meringue .... 230 " Pie 218 " Sauce . . . . . 355 " Shortcake .... 55 " Snow 277 " Tapioca Pudding, (or other fruit) . . 226 Apples Baked . . . 356, 357 403 404 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Apples Clarified .... 355 " Fried 37 Pickled .... 378 " Preserved . . . 366 " Stewed .... 355 " Stewed Whole . 356 " Ways to Use . . 401 Approximate Weights and Measures, Table of . 8 Arrowroot Blanc-mange 268 Gruel ... 390 Ice . . . . 281 Asparagus, Boiled . . . 201 " Soup ... 110 Avoirdupois Weight ... 8 B. Baked and Stewed Fruits 355 to 359 Baked Apple Dumplings . 224 " Apples . . . 356, 357 " Beans .... 38 " Blue Fish ... 122 " Custard .... 274 " Eggs 21 " " alacreme. . 21 " Fish 120 " Graham Pudding . 241 " Halibut .... 122 " Hash 28 " " with Eggs . 29 " Haunch of Tension 169 " Hominy .... 70 " Macaroni .... 71 " Okra and Tomatoes 39 " Omelet 25 " Onions 194 41 Pears 357 " Potatoes .... 39 " Quinces .... 357 " Rice 7.0 Baked Sausages ... " Sweet Potatoes . " Tomatoes. .. Baking Powder Biscuit PAGE. 33 39 69 305 Banana Blanc-mange (or other fruit) .... 259 Banana Ice Cream . . . 278 " Fritters. ... 96 Bannocks ...... 95 Barberry Jelly .... 374 Barley Sugar ..... 288 Barley Water ..... 389 Batter Balls (for Soup) . 103 Batter Pudding .... 236 Bavarian Cream (various kinds) ..... 261 Bean and Tomato Soup . 112 Bean Soup (Navy Beans) 112 Beans (all kinds) . 202, 203 Bechamel Sauce .... 154 Beef a la mode .... 176 " Croquettes ... 87 " For the Sick ... 384 " In Various Ways (For the Sick) . 385, 386 " Juice ..... 384 Loaf ..... 78 " Roast ..... 30 " Roll. ..... 173 Beef's Heart ..... 73 Beefsteak ...... 174 " and Onions . 174 " Pie .... 189 " Stuffed ... 175 " with Baked To- matoes ..... 175 Beef Soup ..... 105 " Stew ..... 186 " Tea ...... 385 " Tea for Convalescents 385 Alphabetical Index. 405 PAGE. Beets 193 Bell Fritters 95 Berry Charlotte .... 231 Berry Ice Cream .... 279 Pie ...... 224 Best Way to Cook a Ham 183 Bird's Nest Pudding . . 229 Biscuit, Graham .... 303 " Maryland ... 306 " Unleavened . . 307 Bisque Ice Cream . . . 280 Black Bean Soup . . . Ill Blackberries, Pickled . . 377 Blackberries, Preserved . 368 Blackberry Cordial ... 352 Blackberry Pie .... 224 Blackberry Wine ... 352 Blanched Almonds ... 13 Blanc-Manges . . 253 to 269 Blue Fish, Baked ... 124 Boil, How to .... Boil in Lard, How to . . 9 Boiled Asparagus . . . 201 " Beets 183 44 Cabbage .... 196 " Cauliflower ... 197 " Chestnuts ... 399 " Chickens. ... 161 " Cod 119 " Corn 203 " Custard .... 271 " Eggs 18 " Fish 118 " Frosting .... 319 Graham Pudding . 246 " Halibut .... 119 " Ham 182 " Hominy ... 16, 17 " Indian Pudding . 245 " Lambs' Tongues . 33 Boiled Macaroni . 44 Mutton . " Oatmeal . " Onions . " Parsnips . " Pastry " Potatoes . " Puddings . PAGE. 207 180 16 194 193 213 190 242 " to Warm 243 " Rice 206 " Salad Dressing (Without Oil) ... 143 Boiled Salmon .... 120 " Salt Mackerel . . 37 44 Samp or Hominy (coarse) 17 Boiled Spinach .... 200 " Tongue .... 177 44 Turkey .... 160 " Turnips .... 192 Boston Brown Bread . . 296 Boston Brown Bread Toasted 311 Bouillon 104 Braid of Bread .... 299 Brandy Peaches . . 361, 362 Brandy Sauce .... 248 Bread 291 44 to Bake .... 294 44 and Butter Pud- ding 233 44 Boiled in Molasses 309 44 Crumbs, List of uses for 307 44 Dough Pie Crust . 212 44 Fritters 95 44 Griddle Cakes . . 59 44 made with Com- pressed Yeast . . . 295 Bread made with Potatoes 295 406 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Bread made with Potato or Baker's Yeast . . 296 Bread made with a "Sponge" .... 294 Bread made Quickly (Miss Corson's method) . . 296 Bread Panada .... 396 " Pate's 92 " Puddings . . 233, 234 " Sauce 153 Breakfast 15 " and Tea Cakes 45 to 56 " Bacon ... 32 Cake .... 53 " Turnovers . . 31 Breast of Veal, Stewed . 178 Bridget's Pie-crust . . 212 Broil, How to .... 12 Broiled Chicken ... 164 Fish 124 " Oysters .... 135 " Potatoes ... 41 Quail .... 168 Salt Mackerel . 37 Shad 124 Broiled Sweet-breads . 179 Brown Betty 231 " Bread 298 Browned Flour .... 149 Hash .... 28 " Potatoes ... 192 Brunswick Stew ... 188 Buckeye Buckwheat Cakes 58 Buckwheat Cakes with water 67 Buckwheat Cakes, Un- equalled 57 Buns 303 Burnt Almonds .... 286 PAGE. Burnt Sugar (for soup) . 102 Burnt Sugar Flavoring . 253 Butter Beans 202 Buttered Parsnips . . . 194 Buttermilk Griddle Cakes 59 " Muffins . . 46 C. Cabbage 43, 196 Pickled . . . 379, 380 Salad .... 72 CafeauLait 350 Cake 316 to 348 " Almond . . 333, 334 " Angel .... 337 " Charlotte Russe . 326 " Chocolate . 323, 324 " Chodwell ... 335 " Citron .... 333 " Cocoanut ... 325 " Coffee 335 " Cream .... 329 " Cup 327 " Delicate .... 329 " Feather .... 328 " Fruit or Wedding 334 " Gold 332 " Grandpa's ... 330 " Huckleberry . . 331 " Jelly . 322, 323, 326 " Layer . . 322 to 326 *' Lemon Layer . . 325 " Lemon Loaf . . 333 " Lincoln .... 327 " Marble 331 " Marble Layer . . 326 " 1, 2, 3, 4 .... 327 " Orange . . 324, 325 " Pound .... 330 " Sandusky ... 330 " Silver . 332 Alphabetical Index. 407 PAGE. Cake, Snow 328 " Spice 329 " Sponge . . 336 to 337 " Variety .... 325 " Washington. . . 332 " White 328 Cake, White Mountain . 323 Calcutta Curry .... 185 Calf's Liver 180 Calf's or Beef's Heart . . 73 Can, To 371 Canadian Gingerbread . . 339 Candied Fruits .... 360 Candy 281 to 288 " Barley sugar . . 288 " Burnt Almonds . 286 " Caramels, Choco- late . 282, 283, 399 " Caramels, Maple Sugar 283 Candy Cream 285 " " Chocolate . 281 " French (without boiling) 284 Candy Fruit 285 " Jelly Drops ... 283 " Molasses .... 287 " Peanut 287 " Sugar 288 " " Taffy with nuts 287 Candy Taffy 287 " Vinegar .... 288 Canned Salmon, Baked . 36 " " on Toast 35 " " Pincfi of 36 Canned String Beans . . 373 * Tomatoes . . . 372 Cape Cod Chowder. . . 130 Caper or Pickle Sauce . . 151 PAGE. Caramel Custard .... 275 Caramel Ice Cream . . . 280 Caramel Loaf 238 Caramels . . . 282, 283, 399 Carrots Stewed .... 197 Casserole of Fish ... 127 Rice and Meat . 76 Catsups 375 Caudle 391 Cauliflower 197 Celery, Stewed .... 200 Cereals 16 Charlotte Russe . . 269, 270 " Cake . . 326 " " Pudding 271 Cheap Sponge Cake . . 337 Cheaper Sauce for Poached Eggs 19 Cheese Fondue .... 66 Cherries for a Cold ... 395 Cherry Bounce .... 353 Cherry Pie 223 Cherry Pudding .... 231 Chestnut Stuffing ... 149 Chestnuts, Boiled ... 399 Chicken-a n d-C o r n P u d- ing . . .. ,. ;. . . 77 Chicken Baked in Rice . 77 Boiled .... 161 " Broiled .... 164 " Broth .... 107 " Croquettes . . 84, 85 Devilled ... 75 " Fricasseed . . 161, 162 " Fried . . . 162, 163 " Panada .... 395 " Pat6s (or Veal) . 93 Pie 189 Pot-pie (or Veal) 190 " Pressed . 81 408 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Chicken Roast . ' . . 1(51 Salad .... 144 " Smothered. . . 163 " Soup (or Turkey) 107, 108 " Tea 392 " Warmed-over (or Turkey) 34 Children's Cookies ... 343 Chili Sauce 377 Chocolate ...... 351 with Whipped Cream 351 Chocolate Bavarian Cream 261 Cake . . . 323, 324 " Caramels 282, 283, 399 " Cornstarch Blanc-mange . . . 268 Chocolate Custard Pudding 275 Floating Island 272 " Frosting . 320, 399 Gelatine Blanc- mange 264 Chocolate Ice Cream . . 279 ChodwellCake .... 335 Chowder 130, 131 Christmas Charlotte Russe 270 Cider Jelly 254 " To Bottle .... 397 Cinnamon Cookies . . . 341 " Fingers ... 225 Citron Cake 333 " Preserves .... 363 Clam Broth 132 " Chowder .... 131 " Fritters . . , . 98 " Pie 132 " Soup 116 Clams . . . . 98, 131, 132 PAGE. Clams, To Open . .V , . 131 Claret Jelly 254 Claret Syrups .... 102 Clarified Apples .... 355 Cocoa 352 Cocoanut Cake .... 325 Custard Pudding 275 " Drop Cakes . . 346 " Filling for Cake 322 " Frosting ... 320 " Pie 222 Pudding ... 275 Cod, Boiled 119 Codfish Balls 89 Puff 36 Coffee 349,350 " with Egg .... 393 " Cake 335 " Cream 259 " Harmless .... 350 " Ice Cream. . . . 279 " Jelly ..... 258 Cold Catsup 376 " Fish Ways to Use . 131 " Meat Stew .... 34 " Potatoes, To Use . . 208 " Rice, " . . 208 " Slaw 72 " Tomatoes, To Use . 208 Compound Barley Water . 389 Concord Tea Rolls . . . 301 Confederate Pies . . . 217 Convent Eggs .... 25 Cooked Tomatoes, To Use 208 Cookies and Small Cakes 340 to 348 Corn Boiled 203 " Bread . . . . 49 to 50 " Fritters 98 " Muffins . 47 Alphabetical Index. 409 PAGE. Corn Oysters 97 " Pudding 70 " Soup 110 " Stewed 203 Corned Beef 177 " Pressed . . 79 Cornmeal Gruel .... 390 " Hasty Pudding . 17 Constarch Blanc-mange . 267 Custard, Boiled 271 " Pie 220 Cottage Cheese .... 398 Cottage Puddings . .239, 240 Crabapple Jelly .... 374 Crab, Devilled .... 141 Crab Croquettes . . . 88 Crackers 307 Cracker Milk Toast. . . 312 Cracker Panada .... 396 " Pudding ... 233 " Stuffing .... 148 Cranberry Pie .... 216 Sauce. ... 157 Cream Batter Pudding . 236 " Beer ..... 354 " Cake 829 " Candy 285 " Chocolates . . . 281 " Corn Bread ... 49 41 Meringues . . . 346 " Omelet 24 " Pie 220, 221 " (in a Loaf) . . 238 " Puffs 236 " Sauce (for Meats) . 154 " Tea Cake .... 52 " Toast 312 " To Raise Quickly . 399 " To Serve with Fruit Pies 214 PAGE. Creamy Sauce .... 248 Croquettes, Meat Balls, etc 82 to 91 Croquettes, Beef .... 87 Chicken . 84, 85 " Phila- delphia 85 Croquettes, Fish .... 88 " French Receipt for 83 Croquettes, Hap-hazard . 87 Lamb ... 86 Lobster or Crab 88 Oyster ... 88 Potato ... 90 " Rice .... 90 Veal .... 84 " Tension or Mut- ton. ... 86 Croutons 103 Crullers 348 Crust for Meat Pies - . . 213 Cucumber Catsups . . . 375 Cucumbers, Fried ... 43 Pickled 378, 379, 380, 381 " Raw ... 42 Stewed . . 205 Cup Cake 327 Cup Custard 274 Currant Biscuit .... 306 Jelly 374 " Sauce . . 151 " Preserves . . . 308 " Shortcake ... 65 To Wash ... 13 Currant Wine 353 Curried Chicken .... 164 " Eggs-and-Toast . 26 " Oysters .... 138 410 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Curried Pilau 186 Curry Sauce 153 Custards . . . . 271 to 275 Custard Pie 219 " Sauce .... 250 D. Delicacies for Dessert . . 252 Delicate Baked Apples . . 357 Cake 329 Shad 124 Delmonico Pudding . . 274, 275 Dessert Puffs or Vanities . 236 Desserts 209 " Prepared Quickly 289 Without Milk. . 289 Devilled Chicken ... 75 Crab .... 141 Eggs .... 26 Ham 75 " Lobster or Crab . 141 Oysters ... 138 " Tomatoes ... 68 Dimples. 346 Dinner 100 Dipped Toast 311 Dolmathes 73, 74 Dough Dumplings . . . 247 " Fritters .... 95 Doughnuts 347 Drawn Butter .... 150 Dried Apple Pie . . . . 218 " Apples Stewed . . 355 " Beans 203 " Flour Gruel ... 393 " Peaches, Stewed . 355 " Peach Pie . . . . 218 Drinks 348 Dropped Eggs .... 19 PAGE. Dry Measure 8 Dry Toast 310 Ducks 164 Dumplings for Meat . . 247 Dundee Pudding. . . . 245 Dutch Cucumbers . . . 381 B. Eels 131 Egg-and-Crumb, How to . 12 " Gruel .... 388, 389 " Lemonade . . . .393 " Nogg 393 " Plant .... 71, 205 " Poached in,Broth . . 394 " Sandwiches .... 394 " Sauce 151 Eggs 18 " Baked 21 " A la creme .... 21 " Boiled .... V. . 18 " Convent . .... . 25 " Curried Eggs and Toast 26 " Devilled 26 " Escaloped Eggs and Meat . . . . 21, 22 " Fried 20 " Ham and Eggs ... 20 " Omelet, Baked ... 25 IC " Cream. . . 24 " " French . . 24 " " Fried ... 23 Ham ... 23 " " Tomato . . 24 " Poached or Dropped . 19 " In Oil 20 " With Sauce .... 19 " Scrambled ... 22 Alphabetical Index. 411 PAGE. .... 394 " Stirred Eggs with Gravy ...... 25 " Stuffed 26 " To Preserve for Winter use ... 396, 397 English Chestney ... 377 " Muffins 46 11 Pancakes .... 61 " Plum Pudding . . 244 Escaloped Claras . . . 132 " Eggs and Meat 21, 22 Fish . . . 126, 127 " Oysters . . . 136 " Potatoes ... 68 " Tomatoes . . 44 Explanatory Notes ... 7 P. Fancy Frosting .... 320 Fat or Suet, to try out . . 11 Feather Cake 328 Fig Pudding 24G Filling for Cake . . 320 to 322 Fish 35, 117 " a 1'Italicnne . . . 129 " Au Court Bouillon . 120 " Baked 120 " Balls 89 " Chowder .... 130 " Croquettes .... 88 " Escaloped .... 126 " Fried 123 " Pat6s 93 " Potted 128 " Salad 145 " Spiced 128 " Steaks Fried ... 123 ' Stewed . 129 PAGE. Fish, to Boil 118 " To Broil .... 124 " To Pickle. ... 128 " To use Cold Fish 131 Flaked Potato .... 191 Flannel Cakes .... 61 Flavorings for Custards, etc. 253 FlaxseedTea 892 Floating Island . ... 272 Flour Gruel 390 14 To Thicken With . . 11 Food for a Delicate Infant 391 For the Sick . . . 383 to 396 Force-meat Balls for Soup 103 Francatelli Pudding . . 234 French Candies, without boiling 284 " Omelet 24 " Receipt for Croquettes 83 Fricasseed Chicken . . 161, 162 " Oysters 137 " Rabbits 171 Fried Apples* 37 " Cabbage .... 43 " Chickens . . . 162, 163 " Cucumbers ... 43 " Eels 131 " Egg-plant .... 205 " Eggs 18 " Fish 123 " Ham ..... . . 32 " Hasty Pudding or Mush- 18 " Hominy 18 " Oatmeal 18 " Omelet 23 " Onions .... 43, 195 " Oysters .... 134, 135 " Parsnips .... 194 412 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Fried Potatoes .... 40 " llabbit 171 " Salsify 199 Shad 125 " Squash 196 " Sweet-breads . . . 179 " Sweet Potatoes . . 41 " Tomatoes ... 44, 68 Fritters, . . . . . 93 to 98 " Apple .... 96 " Apple, Orange or Banana 96 Fritters, Bell 95 " Bread .... 95 " Clam .... 98 Corn .... 98 " Dough .... 95 " Oyster .... 98 " Plain .... 94 Potato .... 96 Rice ..... 97 " Salsify. ... 198 " Snow .... 94 11 Squash or Pea . 97 Frizzled Beef 35 Frogs 74 Frosting . . . . 318 to 320 To Color ... 319 Frozen Custard .... 278 Fruit Cake (or Wedding) 334 " Candy 285 " Tees 280 -" Jelly 258 " Shortcake .... 55 Fry, How to 10 G. Game and Poultry Gelatine Frosting 157 319 PAGE. General Directions ... 9 Gen. Washington's Break- fast Cake 53 German Blanc-mange . . 268 " Potatoes ... 68 Puflfs 237 " Sauce .... 252 Giblet Gravy 150 Gingerbread . . . .338, 339 Pudding . . 240 Ginger Snaps 343 Glazed Ham 183 Gold Cake 332 Gold-and-Silver Jelly Cake 322 Gold Pudding 240 Gooseberry Fool .... 276 Goose, Roast 1G5 Graham Biscuit ... 47, 303 " Bread .... 297 " Cookies. ... 342 Gems .... 48 " Griddle Cakes . 59 ' Gruel .... 387 " Hasty Pudding . 17 Pudding . .241,246 Grandpa's Cake .... 330 Granuin Gruel .... 395 Grape Jam 369 " Jelly 373 " Wine 353 Gravy for Broiled Chickens orPatridges. . . . 150 Gravy for Roast Meat . . 150 " To Make .... 149 Green Currant Pie . . . 223 " Gooseberry Pie . . 223 " Pea Soup .... 115 " Tomato Preserves . 365 Greens (Various Kinds) . 200 Griddle Cakes, etc. . 56 to 60 Alphabetical Index. 413 PAGE. Grouse 166, 167 Gruels 387 to 31)3 Gumbo Soup Ill H. Halibut 119, 122 Hani and Eggs .... 20 " and Macaroni ... 39 " Best Way to Cook . 183 " Boiled 182 " Devilled 75 " Fried 32 " Glazed 183 " Omelet 24 " Salad 145 Hap-Hazard Croquettes . 87 Hard Sauce 248 Harmless Coffee .... 350 Hash 28, 29, 31 Hash, Baked with Eggs . 29 Hasting's Pudding ... 243 Hasty Pudding or Mush 17, 18 Haunch of Vension, Baked 169 Head Cheese 80 Hcirt, Calf's or Beef's . 73 Hidden Apples .... 228 Hidden Hash 31 Hints on Giving Milk . . 386 Hominy 16, 17, 18 Hominy Bread .... 61 Hominy Griddle Cakes. . 60 " Muffins .... 47 Honeycomb Pudding . . 241 Hot Slaw 72 How to Boil 9 " " " in Lard . . 9 " " Broil 12 i Egg-and-Crumb . 12 " " Fry 10 PAGE. How to Parboil .... 9 " " Try out Fat or Suet 11 Huckleberry Cake . . . 331 " Pudding . . 245 Tea Cake. 62 I. Ice Cream and Ices 228 to 281 Iced Tea 349 Imitation Hen's Nest . . 264 Pate de Voie Gras 75 Imperial Cream .... 277 Indian Pudding . . . 235, 245 Irish Moss Lemonade . . 392 Irish Stew 187 Isinglass Frosting . . . 319 Italian Cream 262 J. Jam (any Kind of Fruit) . 371 Jam, Grape 369 Japanese Cream .... 397 Jellied Apples 356 " Veal 80 Jelly Cake . . . 322, 323, 326 " " Without Eggs . 322 " Drops 283 " Floating Island . . 272 " Sauce 250 " To Make . . . 373,375 " with Bananas ... 258 Johnny Cake 50 Jumbles 344 Junket 265 Kentucky Potatoes ... 68 Kidneys, Stewed ... 33 414 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Kisses or Meringues . . 346 Knuckle of Veal Stew . . 184 Koumiss 387 L. Lafayette Gingerbread . 339 Lamb Broth ..... 107 " Chops 181 " Croquettes ... 86 " Roast 180 " Stuffing for . . 147, 148 Lamb's Hearts .... 33 " Tongues. . 33,72,73 Layer Cakes . . .322 to 326 Lemonade . . . 387, 392, 393 Lemon Custard .... 273 " Filling for Cake 320, 321 " Ice 280 " Jelly 256 " Layer Cake . . . 325 " Loaf Cake ... 333 " Pie 221 " Pudding .... 232 " Sauce 249 " Toast 313 Lenten Soup . . . .114, 115 Lettuce Salad 147 Light Dough Dumplings . 247 Lima Beans 202 Lincoln Cake 327 Liquid Measure .... 8 " Sauce 248 List of uses for Bread Crumbs 310 List of uses for Pieces of Bread 309 Liver 180 Lobster, A Simple Way . 140 Lobster, Devilled . . . 141 PAGE. Lobster or Crab Cro- quettes .... 88 " Salad .... 146 Sauce . . 155, 156 Lobsters, to open . . . 140 Lottie's Cream Tea Cake . 52 Love Pudding 236 Luncheon 64 Lyonnaise Potatoes. . . 40 M. Macaroons 346 Macaroni, Baked ... 71 Boiled ... 207 Milan .... 207 " with Ham . . 39 " Oysters . 39 " " Tomato Sauce 71 Mackerel 126 Maitre d'Hotel Potato . . 67 " " " Sauce . . 157 Manchester Pudding . . 246 Maple Sugar Caramels. . 283 Marble Cake 331 " Layer Cake ... 326 Marlboro' Pie 219 " Pudding ... 230 Marmalade . . 369, 370, 371 Maryland Biscuit. ... 306 Mashed Potato .... 191 Mayonnaise Dressing 142, 143 Meat and Kice Croquettes. 86 " Balls 87 " Paste 395 " Pies 188 " To Boil 173 " To Roast .... 172 Meat Warmed in Slices . 34: Alphabetical Index,. 415 PAGE. Meats .... 27, 72, 78, 171 Medley Marmalade . . . 371 Menu for Convalescents, 383, 384 Meringue, To make a . . 13 Meringues or Kisses . . 34G Milan Macaroni .... 207 Milk, Thickened .... 390 " Toast 311 " To Use . . . 400, 401 Mille Fruit Cream . . . 2GO Millville Shortcake ... 54 Mince Meat 215 " Pies 214 Minced Hash 28 Mint Sauce 155 Miroton 34 Miscellaneous .... 39G Dishes for Breakfast . . 37 Miscellaneous Dishes for Luncheon .... 72 Mississippi Kiver Steam- boat stuffing for Fish 121 Mock Bisque Soup . . . Ill " Chicken Salad . . 145 " Doughnuts ... 95 " Duck ...... 175 " Mince Meat . . . 21G " Oysters .... 198 " Squab Pie . . . . 190 " Turtle Soup ... 104 Molasses Candy .... 287 44 or Spice Cookies 343 '* Sauce .... 249 Mont Blanc 259 Mousaka ...... 74 Mrs. Gen. Lee's Boiled Pastry 213 Muffins . 45 to 47 PAGE. Mulled Jelly 393 Mush 17 Mustard Pickle .... 381 " Prepared ... 157 Mutton a la Venison. . . 76 Boiled .... 180 " Broth (or Lamb). 107 " Chops (or Lamb). 181 " Croquettes ... 86 Cutlets .... 181 " Roast 180 Stew 1C6 N. Nasturtium Seed, Pickled. 377 Neck or Shoulder of Veni- son 170 New Year's Cakes ... 345 Nonpariel Rusk .... 304 Nonsense 277 Noodle Soup 106 North Carolina Boiled Cab- bage ...... 196 North Carolina Corn Muf- fins 47 Nutmeg Cookies .... 342 o. Oatmeal Cordial .... 388 " Griddle Cakes . . 58 Gruel . ....<. 388 Ohio Cakes 344 Okra 205 14 and Tomatoes. . . 206 " or Gumbo Soup . . Ill Old-fashioned Apple Pic . 218 " Frosting . 818 44 Sponge Cake 336 416 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Omelets .... 23 to 25 1, 2, 3, 4 Cake 327 Onion Stuffing for Fish . 121 Orange Baskets with Jelly 255 " Cake .... 324, 325 " Custard .... 273 " Filling for Cake . 321 " Tool 276 " Fritters .... 96 " Frosting .... 320 " Ice (or Lemon) 280, 281 " Jelly 255 " Marmalade . . . 369 " Pie 221 " Preserve ... 368 " Pudding .... 276 " Snow 257 Oyster Boulette .... 138 " Croquettes ... 88 " Fritters .... 98 " Pates 92 Pie 140 " Plant . . . 198, 199 " Sauce 156 " Soup 116 " Stuffing .... 148 Oysters 132 to 140 " alapreme ... 137 " a la Royale ... 139 " Broiled . . . . 135 " Escaloped . . . 136 " Fricasseed . . . 137 " Fried . . . 134, 135 " Panned .... 139 " Pickled .... 137 " Raw . ". . . . 132 " Roast 136 " Smothered ... 139 " Steamed .... 135 " Stewed . . . 133, 134 PAGE. P. Pancakes 61 Pan Dowdy 229 Panned Oysters .... 139 Paradise Pudding . . . 244 Parboil, how to .... 9 Parker House Rolls . . 300 Parsnip Cakes Fried . . 194 Parsnips .... 193, 194 Partridges .... 167, 168 Pate's 91 Peach Charlotte .... 231 " Ice 281 " Ice Cream. . . . 278 " Preserves. . . . 362 " ShortCake ... 56 Peanut Candy 287 Pea Fritters 97 Pear and Quince Marma- lade 370 Pears Preserved .... 366 " Baked 357 " Pickled 378 " Stewed 358 Peas 201 Peppers, Stuffed .... 199 Perch 126 Philadelphia Chicken Cro- quettes 85 Picalily 382 Pickle Sauce 151 " to cure Hams . . 398 Pickled Apples .... 378 " Blackberries . . 377 " Cabbage . . 379, 380 " Cucumbers . 378 to 381 " Fish 128 " Lambs' Tongues . 73 " Nasturtium Seed , 377 Alphabetical Index. 417 PAGE. Pickled Oysters .... 137 " Pears 378 " Watermelon Kind. 379 Piekles 377 to 382 " without Boiling . 382 Pie Crust . . . . 209 to 214 44 " to Glaze ... 214 Pies 209 to 225 " Anglo Francais. . . 224 44 Apple 218 " Apple Custard . . . 219 " Berry 224 " Blackberry .... 224 44 Cherry 223 " Cocoanut .... 222 4 Confederate . . . 217 " Cornstarch .... 220 " Cranberry . . . . 21G 44 Cream . . . 220, 221 14 Currant 223 44 Custard 219 44 Dried Apple or Peach 218 ' 4 Green Gooseberry. . 223 " Lemon or Orange . . 221 44 Maryborough . . . 219 44 Mince 214 44 Pumpkin 217 44 Squash . ." . . 217,218 44 Sweet Potato Custard 220 44 Sweet Potato ... 216 Pigeon Pie 189 Pigeons .... 1G5, 1G8, 189 Pigs in Blankets .... 139 Pilau 185 Pinc6 of Canned Salmon . 36 Pineapple Ice Cream . . 279 44 Preserves . . 365 44 Pudding ... 232 Plain Bread Pudding . . 234 44 Breakfast Cake . 63 PAGE. Plain Fritters 94 4 Graham Bread . . 297 4 Huckleberry Tea Cake 53 4 Jelly Cake .... 322 4 Muffins 45 4 Pie Crust .... 212 14 Ilice Pudding ... 227 Plum Preserves .... 366 Plum Pudding . . . 243, 244 Poached Eggs ... 19, 20 Poor Man's Pudding . . 227 Popovers 51 Pork 181, 182 Pork Steaks or Chops . . 182 Potage a la Keine . . . 109 Potato Balls 90 " Biscuit .... 302 44 Croquettes ... 90 44 Crust 213 44 Flaked .... 191 44 Fritters .... 96 44 Mattre d'Hotel . . 67 44 Mashed .... 191 44 Pears 90 44 Puff 42 44 Rechaufle ... 42 44 Salad 146 44 Snow 42 44 Soup (or Lenten) 114, 115 44 Yeast (Raw) . . 315 Potatoes and Cream . . 42 Baked .... 39 Boiled .... 190 Broiled. ... 41 44 Browned . . . 192 Cold, To Use. . 208 Fried .... 40 " German . . 68 44 Kentucky or Es- caloped 68 418 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Potatoes Lyonnaise . . 40 " Saratoga ... 66 " Stewed with Gravy 41 " Milk 41 " Stuffed .... 40 " with Giblets . . 67 Potted Fish 128 Potted Patridges ... 167 Poultry, etc 157 " To Clean or Draw 158 " To Keep ... 159 To Prepare . . 158 To Select ... 157 " To Stuff and Truss 159 " To Wash ... 159 Hash .... 28 Pound Cake 330 Prairie Chicken . . . 166, 167 Prepared Mustard . . . 157 Preserved Apples ... 366 " Blackberries . 368 " Citron ... 363 " Currants. . . 368 ' Oranges . . . 368 Peaches . . .362 " Pears .... 366 " Pineapple . . 365 " Plums ... 366 " Quinces . . . 367 " Tomatoes . 364, 365 " Watermelon Hind 363 Preserves 359 Pressed Chicken .... 81 " Corned Beef . . 79 Meats . . .78 to 82 Prince of Wales' Pudding 240 Prunes, Stewed .... 358 Puddings .... 226 to 247 Pudding, Amber .... 244 PAGE. Pudding, Apple Cottage . 229 " ** Meringue 230 " " Tapioca, (or other Fruit) . . 226 " Batter or Love . 236 " Berry or Peach Charlotte .... 231 " Bird's Nest . . 229 " Bread and Butter 233 Bread 233, 234, 235 " Brown Betty . 231 " Charlotte Russe 271 ". Cherry. ... 231 * ' Chocolate Custard 275 " Cocoanut . . . 275 " Cocoanut Custard 275 " Cold Corn Bread 240 " Cottage . .239,240 " Cracker ... 233 " Cream Batter . 236 " Delmonico . . 274 Dundee ... 245 " Fig 246 " Francatelli . . 234 " Gingerbread. . 240 " Graham . . 241, 246 " Hastings or Suet 243 " Hidden Apples or Rice Rock .... 228 " Honeycomb . .241 Huckleberry. . 245 " Indian . . . 235, 245 " Lemon. . . . 232 " Manchester . . 246 " Marlborough . 230 " Orange . . . 276 " Pan Dowdy . . 229 Paradise ... 244 " Pineapple . . 232 Plum . . .243,244 Alphabetical Index. 419 PACK Pudding, Prince of Wales 240 " Pumpkin . . . 233 Raised Waffles . . . . Raisin Gruel PACK. 62 390 " Rhubarb or Apple Charlotte . .231 Rice . . . 227, 228 Rice Custard . 228 Rolled .... 246 Scotch. ... 229 " Sweet Potato . 232 Swell .... 227 " Tapioca or Sago 226 " Victoria ... 244 Raisius, Stewed ... . " To Stone . . . Rarnakin Toast .... Raspberry Floating Island " Shortcake . . Trifle. . . . " Vinegar . . . Raw Beef Cakes .... " Cucumbers .... 359 13 66 272 55 277 353 394 42 132 Virginia ... 240 " Pudding Sauces 248 to 252 Puddings to Boil .... 242 " With Flour . . 236 " Potato Yeast . . . " Tomatoes . . . . Rhubarb Charlotte . . . 11 Marmalade . . pie 315 44 231 370 222 Puff Paste 210 " Stewed 355 Pumpkin Pie . . , ; . . 217 Ribbon Blanc-mange . . 263 " Pudding ... 233 Rice Balls 91 Q- Quail 168 " Blanc-mange . . . " Cold, To Use ... " Corn Bread. . . . " Croflucttcs 266 208 50 on Quail Pio 189 " Custard Puddingx 228 Queen's Toast . . . . 312 " Fritters 97 Quick Graham Biscuit . . 47 " Sponge Cake . . 336 Quince and Pear Marmalade 370 " Griddle Cakes . . . " or Hominy Muffins . " Pudding " Puffs 60 47 228 237 " Jelly 374 " Rock . ... 28 " Preserves . . . 367 " Waffles 63 R. Rabbit Pie 189 " Water Rich Blackberry Pie . . " Chowder " Corn Bread 391 224 130 49 Rabbits .... 170, 171, 189 Raised Doughnuts ... 347 " Corn starch Blanc- 267 " Graham Gems . . 48 " Muffins .... 45 ich Ice Cream .... " Lemon Pie .... 278 221 420 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Rich Pie Crust . . . . 211 " Preserves, to make . 3GO " Pudding Sauce. . . 249 " Waffles G2 Ring of Meat 30 Ripe Currant Pie. ... 223 Risen Waffles 62 Rising Powder Proportions 8 Roast Beef 173 " Chickens . . . . 1G1 " Ducks 104 " Goose 1G5 " Mutton or Lamb. . 180 " Oysters .... 136 " Pigeons .... 165 " Pork 181 " Rabbit 170 " Turkey 159 " Veal 178 Rolled Jelly Cake ... 326 " Pudding .... 246 " Sandwiches ... 65 Rolls, etc 299 to 307 Rolls (of Bread Dough) . 300 Rouge Mange 267 Roux, to make a .... 11 Rusk 304 Rye Beach Gingerbread . 338 Saddle of Venison . . . 170 Sago Blanc-mange . . . 266 " Pudding 226 Salad Dressing . . 142 to 144 " " to keep a week 144 Salads 141 to 147 Sally Lunn 51,52 Sally's Vinegar Sauce . . 25 1 Salmon 120, 126 " & 1'Indienne. . . 126 " Salad 145 Salsify 198, 199 PAGE. Salsify Fritters .... 198 Salt Codfish Stewed. . . 36 " Mackerel. . . . ' . 37 Sandusky Cake .... 330 Sandwiches . . . . 64, 65 Saratoga Potatoes ... 66 Sauce for Poached Eggs . 19 " Hollandaise ... 154 " Piquante .... 155 Sauces for Meat, etc. 150 to 157 " Puddings 248 to 252 Sausages 32, 33 Save-all Soup 109 Savoury Toast .... 65 Scotch Pudding .... 229 Scrambled Eggs .... 22 Sea Moss Blanc-mange. . 269 " Lemon Jelly. . 256 Seasonings, Thickenings, and Accompaniments to Soup 101 Seed Cakes 341 Shad 124, 125 Shelled Beans 202 Shell Fish 131 Sherry Toast 394 Short Cake . . . . 54 to 56 Shrewsbury Cakes . . . 345 Shrimp Salad 146 Silver Cake 332 Simple Charlotte Russe . 270 " Cornstarch Blanc- mange 267 Slack-baked Bread, what to do with .... 308 Slapjacks 60 Sliced Cucumber Pickled . 378 " Ham Dressed . . 32 Small Birds, any kind, to Cook 168 Alphabetical Index. 421 PACK. Small Cakes 340 Smelts 125 Smothered Chicken. *. . 103 " Oysters . . . 139 Snap Beans 202 Snow Balls 26G " Cake 328 " Fritters .... 94 " Pudding .... 257 Soft Cookies 342 Soft Soap 397 Soggy under crust, to pre- vent 214 Soup 100 to 117 Asparagus . . . . 110 " Bean and Tomato . 112 " Bean (Navy Beans) . 112 " Black Bean. . . . Ill " Beef . . .... 105 " Bouillon * * . . 104 " Chicken Broth. . . 108 " " or Turkey 107, 108 " Clam 116 " Cora 116 " Green Pea . . k . 115 " Mock Bisque . . . 114 " Turtle ... 104 " Mutton or Lamb Broth 107 44 Noodle 106 " Okra or Gumbo . . Ill " Oyster 116 " Pottage a la Reine . 109 " Potato or Lenten . 114 44 Save-all 109 " Spiced Tomato . . 112 " Tomato 113 " Veal 106 " Vegetables. . . . 110 " White 108 PAGE. Soups without Meat. 113 to 117 Sour Bread, what to do with 308 Sour Cream Cookies . . 341 Sour Cream Sauce . . . 252 " Milk Graham Gems . 48 " " Short Cake . . 54 " to use ... 401 Spanish Cream .... 262 Toast .... 312 Spice Cake 329 44 Cookies .... 343 Spiced Beef 79 " Bread Pudding . . 234 " Currants .... 377 " Fish 128 " Gingerbread . . 838 44 Tomato Soup . . 112 Spices, etc., for Soup . . 101 Spinach 200 44 Sponge " (for Bread) . 316 Sponge Cake . . . 336 to 337 Gingerbread . . 338 Spruce Beer 354 Squash 195, 196 44 Fritters .... 97 Pie ... 217, 218 Squirrels 171 Stale Bread, to freshen . 309 St. Charles' Pone ... 50 St. Patrick's Pie ... 30 Steamed Brown Bread . 298 Eggs .... 385 44 Oysters ... 135 Stewed and Baked Fruits 355 44 Apples . . 355, 356 14 Berries, Cherries, or Grapes . . 358 44 Breast of Veal . 178 44 Carrots . 197 422 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Stewed Cauliflower . . . 197 Celery .... 200 Codfish (salt) . . 36 " Corn 203 " Cucumbers ... 205 " Ducks .... 164 " Eels 131 " Fish 129 " Fowl with Oysters 161 " Kidneys .... 33 " Oysters . . 133, 134 " Pears 358 " Pigeons .... 165 " Potatoes. ... 41 " Prunes .... 358 Kaisins .... 359 " Rhubarb .... 325 " Salsify or Oyster Plant .... 198 " Terrapins . . . 141 " Tomatoes . . . 204 Stews 183 to 188 Stick Bread 298 Stirred Eggs with Gravy . 25 Stock for Soup .... 104 Strawberry Shortcake ... 55 String Beans 202 " " Canned . . 373 Stuffed Baked Tomatoes . 69 " Beefsteak . . . 175 " Egg-plant ... 71 " Eggs 26 " Peppers . . . . 199 " Potatoes .... 40 " Tomatoes ... 70 Stuffing, Gravy, Sauces, etc. ... 147 for Baked Fish . 121 " " Ducks or Geese ... 149 PAGE. Stuffing for Turkey, Chicken, Veal, Lamb or Fish . . . 147, 148 Succotash .... 203, 204 Suet Pudding 243 " or Fat, how to try out 11 " to Chop 11 Sugar Candy 288 " Gingerbread ... 339 " Taffy, with Nuts . 287 Suggestions for Tea . . 290 Summer Medley .... 204 " Salad .... 146 Squash. . . 195, 196 Superior Graham Bread . 297 Swedish Rolls .... 302 Sweet-breads 179 " Cucumber Pickles . 379 " Muffins .... 46 " Pickles (Pears. Peaches or Cherries) . 378 Sweet Potato Custard Pie 220 " " Pie ... 216 " Pudding . 232 " Potatoes ... 39, 41 Swell Pudding .... 227 Sydney Smith's Salad Dressing 143 Syllabub 269 Syrup Flavoring .... 253 " for Preserves . . 360 " Sauce 251 T. Table of Approximate Weights and Measures 8 Table of "Weights and Measures 8 Taffy 287 Alphabetical Index. 423 PAGE. Tapioca or Sago Blanc- mange 266 Pudding ... 226 Tarts 225 Tea 290, 348 " alaRusse .... 341) Tea-Cakes 45, 46 Terrapins, Stewed . . . 141 Tempting Dish for Luncheon 78 The General's Sponge Cake 336 Thickened Milk .... 390 Thickenings for Soup . . 102 Things Made Without Eggs 400 Tipsy Parson 273 Tip-Top Jelly Cake . . . 323 Toast 310 to 313 " Sandwiches ... 31 To Bake Bread .... 294 " " Cake .... 317 " Blanch Almonds . . 13 " Boll . . 9 " " Fish 118 " " in Lard .... 9 " Meat .... 173 " " Pudding ... 24 " Bottle Cider .... 897 " Broil 12 " " Fish 124 " Can Fruit 371 " Chop Suet 11 " Clean or Draw Fowls . 158 " Color Frosting . . . 319 " Cook Small birds (any kind) 168 " Egg-and-Crumb ... 12 ' ' Freshen Stale Bread, etc. 309 "Fry 10 " Glaze Pie-Crust . . . 214 " Judge whether Bread- dough is Light ... 292 PAGE. To Keep Poultry ... 159 " Make a Meringue . . 13 " " a lit >u\. ... 11 " " a Saucerf ul of Ice Cream in Fifteen Min- utes 396 " Make Gravy .... 149 " " Jelly .... 373 " " Rich Preserves . 360 " Mix Bread 291 " " Cake 316 " Open Clams .... 131 11 " Lobsters ... 140 " Parboil 9 " Pickle Fish .... 128 " Prepare Poultry ... 158 " " Sweet-breads 178 " Preserve Eggs for Win- ter Use 396 " Prevent a soggy Under- crust 214 " Raise Cream quickly . 399 " Roast Meat .... 172 " Select Poultry ... 157 " Stone Raisins ... 13 " Stuff and Truss Poultry 159 " Tell when Cake is done 318 " Thicken with Flour . 11 " Try out Fat or Suet . 11 " Use Apples .... 401 " " a Roast of Meat . 27 " " Milk .... 400,401 " " Sour Milk ... 401 " " Whites of Eggs . 400 " " Yolks of Eggs. . 400 " Warm a Boiled Pudding 243 " Wash Currants ... 13 " Poultry . . . 159 Tomato Catsup . . . 375, 376 " Marmalade. 370 424 Alphabetical Index. PAGE. Tomato Omelet .... 24 Preserve . . 364, 365 " Salad 147 " Sauce .... 152 " Sauce with White Sauce 152 " Soup 113 Tomatoes, Baked ... 69 Canned ... 372 " Devilled. . . 68 " Escaloped . . 44 " Fried ... 44, 68 " Raw .... 44 " Stewed ... 204 " Stuffed ... 70 " " Baked . 69 " Ways To Use . 208 Tough Beefsteak, To Use 31 Transparent Preserves . 364 Turkey 159, 160 " Soup . . . 107, 108 " " Warmed Over 34 Turnips 192 Turnovers 225 Tutti-Frutti Preserve . . 361 TJ. Unequalled Buckwheat Cakes 57 Unleavened Biscuit ... 307 Uses for Bread Crumbs, A List of 310 Uses for Pieces of Bread and Crumbs .... 307 Uses for Pieces of Bread, List of 309 v. Vanities 236 Vanilla Sauce. 251 PAGE. Variety Cake 325 Veal aux Pommes ... 35 " and Ham Loaf. . . 80 " Croquettes .... 84 " Cutlets or Chops . . 179 " Loaf 81 " Pates 93 " Pot Pie 190 " Salad 145 " Soup 106 " Stew .... 183, 184 Vegetables . . . .39, 66, 190 Vegetable Soup .... 110 Velvet Cream 259 Venison .... 86, 169, 170 " Croquettes ... 86 " Steaks .... 109 Victoria Pudding ... 244 Vinegar Candy .... 288 " Sauce .... 251 Virginia Pudding ... 241 W. Wafers 307 Waffles 62, 63 Walnut Catsup .... 375 Wafers .... 345 Warmed-over Chicken or Turkey 34 Washington Cake . . . 332 Pie .... 238 X Watermelon Rind, Pickled 379 " " Preserved 363 Ways to use Cold Fish . 131 " " " " Potatoes 208 " " " " Rice . 208 44 " " Tomato 208 " " " up a Roast of Meat . . 27 Wedding Cake .... 334 Alphabetical Index. 425 PAGE. Weights and Measures, Table of 8 Welsh Rarebit .... 6G Whey 391 Whipped Cream . . . . 2C9 White Cake 328 " Gingerbread ... 339 " Mountain Cake . . 323 " Sauce 154 " Soup 108 Whites of Eggs, to use . 400 Wild Birds, Rechauff6. . 77 " Ducks 166 " Pigeons .... 168 " Turkey 166 Wine and Orange Jelly . 255 Wine Jelly. , . . 253,254 Wine Sauce 250 " Whey 392 Winter Squash .... 195 Succotash ... 203 T. Yeast 313 to 316 " Raw Potato ... 315 " With Hops ... 815 Yellow Sauce 251 Yolks of Eggs, To Use . 400 Z. Zest 253 7 DAY USE ' '-M