SE /V 
 
 ELF 
 
 & 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 
/J<T/'Si 
 
 THE PERUVIANS AT HOME 
 
THE PERUVIANS AT HOME 
 
 BY 
 
 GEORGE R. FITZ-ROY COLE 
 
 LONDON 
 
 KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., I, PATERNOSTER SQUARE 
 
 1884 
 
(The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.) 
 
University of California 
 WITHDRAWN 
 
 Bancroft Library 
 
 I DEDICATE THIS WORK 
 TO MY MOTHER, 
 
 SOPHIA FRANCES COLE, 
 
 AS A SMALL TOKEN OF MY LOVE AND ESTEEM 
 
 FOR ONE WHOSE CONSTANT LOVE AND ENCOURAGEMENT 
 
 HAVE BEEN THE LIGHT AND GUIDE 
 
 OF MY LIFE. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IN the spring of 1873, I had occasion to visit 
 Peru on private business. I resided in that country 
 for upwards of two years, during which time I had 
 opportunities of seeing its most important towns 
 and sights. The objects of my visit, together with 
 the introductions I carried with me, brought me 
 into contact with all classes of Peruvians, from the 
 politicians and merchants of Lima, to the farmers 
 and labourers in the province, the fishermen on the 
 coast, and the miners among the hills ; in fact with 
 men who, differing from each other in habits of life 
 as much as in colour and character, form a mixed 
 society, both strange and novel. Peru is perhaps 
 of all countries in the known world (excepting the 
 Caucasus) unparalleled for the number and variety of 
 races comprising its people. But to the ordinary 
 European traveller the country is chiefly known as 
 the great guano-producer; unfortunately also of late 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 years it has attained a less enviable reputation as 
 a kind of political quicksand, in which large sums 
 of good money have been lost without return. I 
 do not propose to discuss in this volume the gross 
 mismanagement of Peruvian finance by men, some 
 of whom are now no more ; much less the terrible 
 penalty which the nation has had to pay, owing to 
 the misapplication of the funds intended for its 
 advancement, and which, better distributed, so rich 
 a country and so intelligent a race were entitled to 
 expect. It is of the inner life of Peruvians that this 
 book treats the peculiar traits of character, domestic 
 customs and usages, the description of men and 
 manners, and of the soil and scenery, all of which 
 subjects deeply interested and amused me. Since 
 my visit, the country has experienced all the horrors 
 of a disastrous war, continued over several years 
 and on both sides with a spirit of determina- 
 tion and rancour not usually shown by modern 
 belligerents. The character and habits of a people 
 who thus voluntarily sacrificed all that man holds 
 dear, for the sake of preserving their nationality, 
 cannot but be of general interest and, to some 
 extent, instructive. 
 
 The chapter headed " John Chinaman Abroad " 
 was written for Prater's Magazine in October, 1878, 
 and is reproduced with the kind permission of Messrs. 
 
PREFACE. ix 
 
 Longmans, Green, and Co. I think also that the 
 articles entitled, "The Saltpetre Deposits of Peru," 
 and "A Railroad across the Andes," which I con- 
 tributed respectively to the Joiirnal of the Society of 
 Arts on September 10, 1875, and to The Alpine 
 Journal of May, 1878, and which describe routes 
 and places but little known to the public, will add 
 to the interest of this volume. 
 
 Among the readers of the following pages, perhaps 
 there may be some who, knowing me personally, will 
 ask how it is that I have at last been induced to write 
 and publish a more or less complete account of one 
 section of my travels. But it is a fact that I have 
 never been able to give a satisfactory reason for not 
 complying with the often-repeated suggestions of 
 friends to publish, in the collective form of a book, 
 my impressions of Russia, Peru, and of other coun- 
 tries which I have visited. I have invariably replied 
 to all such suggestions that my travels commenced at 
 a time when I was very young, though, it is true, 
 at an age when the mind is generally very ready to 
 receive impressions, and that I did not think my 
 observations could prove of any great public interest, 
 nor did I feel inclined to give the time and labour 
 which writing a book involves. I responded, however, 
 to the friendly pressure laid upon me, so far as to 
 write several separate articles, which, on being sent 
 
x PREFACE. 
 
 to the magazines, were, with one exception, accepted 
 by the respective editors. With this I thought I had 
 paid the dues usually expected from him who goes to 
 foreign parts and sees new and strange things, and 
 I hoped that with these my literary labours had come 
 to an end. Comforted with this feeling, " I went my 
 way," while old Father Time went his, and having 
 many genuine interests in life, one year succeeded 
 another in rapid succession. 
 
 At last the war (just ended) between Chili and 
 Peru sharply revived public attention once again 
 with regard to these distant countries. The sudden 
 notoriety acquired by Peru as a combatant, gave her 
 enemies the opportunity to repeat in contributions to 
 the press the old expressions of abuse which have 
 been so unjustly heaped on the Peruvians. I, for one, 
 cannot stand by inactive and watch the weak man 
 oppressed by the strong, or witness without emotion 
 the rich and arrogant trample on the feelings of the 
 humble and innocent. If we hear a man accused 
 wrongfully, while we know something which, being 
 told, may affect the verdict, should not conscience 
 compel us to come forward as witness to the truth ? 
 So at least my conscience has counselled me. I knew 
 that great untruths had been written about Peru and 
 the Peruvians in contributions to the public press by 
 persons who had never seen that country, but who 
 
PREFACE. xi 
 
 felt keenly the losses they had sustained in Peruvian 
 loans. Added to this, but few serious works of im- 
 partial criticism on the country and its people have 
 been published of late ; in fact, if we exclude the 
 one-idead pamphlets dealing with the loan business, 
 the number of books written on Peru during the last 
 ten years is limited to two or three. 
 
 Briefly, I felt it to some extent my duty to publish 
 my experiences, hoping that they might help to 
 dissipate the misconceptions which were fast becoming 
 rooted in the public mind, and accepted as truths. 
 I knew this self-imposed task would prove a long 
 one, but many have undertaken tasks whose only 
 payment has been the satisfaction of having fulfilled 
 them worthily, difficult and hard though they might 
 often be. Suffice it to say, that on this occasion I 
 welcomed the prospect of an absorbing occupation 
 like that of writing a book, involving as it does 
 months of toil and unremitting attention, with feelings 
 of pleasurable anticipation, mingled with a sense 
 of responsibility. The journal which I had regularly 
 kept during my residence in Peru, my unfinished 
 sketches, and memoranda of the correspondence 
 maintained ever since my return home with the 
 friends made in that country, were all at hand ; 
 and with these materials the present work was com- 
 menced at the end of February last. 
 
xii PREFACE. 
 
 Now that my task is completed, I feel at times 
 like a schoolboy when class is over and recreation 
 begins ; at other times I miss the habitual occupation 
 as the presence of a friend, whose companionship has 
 become dear. But besides this feeling of regret, I 
 confess to experiencing a supreme sensation, which 
 is a mixture of satisfaction, fear, and thankfulness, 
 something akin to what a parent is said to feel on 
 the birth of his child. All this I feel, excepting that 
 I am not vain enough to be elated before the verdict 
 of public opinion has been pronounced on this the 
 first (and probably the last) important literary offspring 
 of my brain. Public opinion is often compared to 
 a fair goddess, whose favours are hard to win. Novice 
 as I am in the art of wooing her, my courtship may 
 not prove successful. The favour of this goddess is 
 said to be more readily extended to those who have 
 already made their names known in the field of 
 literature, or have attained some place in the 
 aristocracy of letters. I have no such credentials. 
 The merits of truth and sincerity are the only claims 
 I can urge, for I have not attempted to give fictitious 
 value to my descriptions of life in Peru by any high 
 colouring, or by relating anything which is not strictly 
 consistent with truth. I have written a simple, 
 truthful account of what I saw in the language 
 habitual to me, without attempting to court favour 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 by imitating the possibly more attractive style of 
 contemporary sensational writers. Whether this will 
 ensure success, Time, the great solver of many 
 enigmas, can only prove. With the consciousness of 
 having worthily exerted myself to please, and occa- 
 sionally to instruct, I wait the verdict of public opinion, 
 which I have symbolized as a goddess, whose favours, 
 though difficult to win, are of a quality which lead 
 one to run the risk of experiencing only the chilling 
 disappointment of unrequited courtship, in the hope 
 that honest work may gain honest meed. 
 
 G. FITZ-ROY COLE. 
 
 54, QUEEN ANNE'S GATE, S.W. 
 July 3u/, 1884. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 WESTWARD HO! 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Routes Starting H.M. Mails Farewell "Life on the Ocean 
 Wave" Social Influences First Sight of the West Indies St. 
 Thomas Coaling Jackmel Kingston Mr. Bagot Smith 
 Home- welcoming Necessities Black Labour View from 
 Mr. Smith's Villa Road to Newcastle Life on a Sugar Estate 
 Cane versus Beetroot Sugar ... ... ... ... ... I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ISTHMUS OF PANAMA AND THE PERUVIAN LITTORAL. 
 
 Colon Panama Railway Luxuriant Vegetation Native Fruits 
 Mulatto Labour Panama City of Panama American Enter- 
 prise Streets of Panama Poorer Population M. de Lesseps 
 and the Panama Canal Dredges The Canal Quantity of 
 Material Harbours Contracts Expected Time of Comple- 
 tion Estimated Benefits Coast of the Pacific Alligator 
 Hunting Guayaquil The Sea-coast The Littoral Rainless 
 Districts Cultivation of Rice Rice Abstemious Habits ... 18 
 
xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Plaza Private Houses A Mansion A Reception Peruvian 
 Beauty Peruvian Gentlemen Convents Retreats Theatres 
 Bull-fights The Matador 39 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CHICLAYO AND THE CHICLAYANOS. 
 
 The Plaza at Night The Cathedral Mixed Races Religious 
 Ceremonies Miraculous Images Pizarro Inca Government 
 Inca Land Laws Natural Religion Spanish Christianity 
 Spaniards and Peruvians Social Customs Musical Talent 
 Mixed Beverages Domestic Qualities Esprit de Corps 
 Petty Quarrels Chiclayo Early Morning Objects of Interest 
 " Tell me Something New " 53 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PROVINCIAL LIFE. 
 
 Foreigners in Peru Settlers Adventurers Annual Fete Native 
 Industries Eten Straw-plaiters Social Customs Chilca 
 Santa Rosa "Oiling the Waves "Sociability of the Peru- 
 vians Cock-fighting Monsefu Fete 73 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NATIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 Railways Eten Balsas Cholos Simple Food Fingers versus 
 Forks Provincial Life The Ethiopian Eye The Panuela 
 Riot in Chiclayo Local Government Vultures Huacas 
 Pottery The Picci Skull 87 
 
CONTENTS. xvii 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 IN THE SOUTH. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 An American Pampa Clouds Stones Nitrate Fields The Desert 
 Great Heat Trade Winds Nueva Carolina Life in the 
 Pampa Pampa Society Loneliness New-comers Woman's 
 Occupations Religion Tirana Bolivian Gipsies Tent-life 
 Canchones A Sea of Sand Matilla Pica Baths Chacras 
 Tarapaca ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 100 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PICA AND TARAPACA. 
 
 Route to Pica Cultivation Rich Soil Desert Travelling Matilla 
 Pica Baths of Pica Bolivian Gipsies Pica Wine 
 Life at Pica Tarapaca Dona Martinez Contentment ... 115 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE NORTH AGAIN. 
 
 The Haciendas Pumalca Parrots El Combo Cleaning the 
 Water-courses Combo The Jesuits Patapo Native Sugar- 
 mills Sugar-making The Coolies The Coolie Question 
 Native Labour Government Inspection ... ... ... 128 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 Hacienda de Percala Traces of the Incas 'Senor Arbulu Estate 
 Management A Sugar-Planter's Day Siesta Midday Heat 
 Sea-breezes Inca Roads Ancient Aqueduct Past and 
 Present Irrigation Works versus Railways Cotton Cultiva- 
 tion Cayalti ... ... ... ... ... 146 
 
CONTENTS. 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PERUVIAN ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Mr. Squier's Explorations Pachacamac Convents Rope Bridges 
 Buried Relics Ancient Cities The Dragon Myth Indian 
 Worship Rough Travelling Large Stones Sculptured Mono- 
 lith Ancient Gateways Indians guarding Ruins Sacred 
 Islands Chulpas Peruvian Pottery Water Coolers Black 
 Earthen Jars Curiously shaped Jars Ancient Figure in Pottery 
 Ornamented Pottery Jars of Strange Shape Relics from 
 Aymara Graves Dr. Marcedo's Collection 158 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 JOHN CHINAMAN ABROAD. 
 
 The Yellow Stream "World Servants "Time Contracts The 
 Health Committee of Sydney Mr. Cecil Guinness's Expe- 
 riences of Chinese in New South Wales Good Miners 
 Abstemiousness Queensland Dr. Hue's Opinion A Heavy 
 "Poll-tax" Commission of the Chinese Government to Cuba 
 Evidence taken Kidnapping Hard Taskmasters Infor- 
 mation withheld Agreements broken by Employers A Long 
 Day's Work The Coolie in Peru Consul March's Report 
 " Insubordination " Conventions between China and Foreign 
 Powers The Peruvian Convention Lord Granville's Com- 
 missioners in Demerara The British Pekin Convention 
 Insufficient Protection for Coolies on landing The Price of a 
 " John Chinaman " 178 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 A RAILROAD ACROSS THE ANDES. 
 
 Up the Andes The River Rimac Surco Hill Stations The 
 Quebrada Matucanas Governor's Hospitality Picturesque 
 
CONTENTS. xix 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Country Steep Ascent Zigzagging Sure-footed Mules 
 San Mateo A Stone Staircase " La Infernilla " Chilka 
 Llamas ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 207 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE SALTPETRE DEPOSITS OF PERU. 
 
 Saltpetre The Seaboard Pampa de Tamarugal Currents of 
 Air Algarova Trees Former Forests Caliche Process of 
 Reduction Nitrate Results of Boiling by Steam-power Cost 
 of Working Transport The Railway A New Process 
 Extent of the Nitrate Fields Description of the Nitrate Country 
 Origin of the Deposits 222 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Dangerous Coasts The Balsas Humboldt's Current The 
 Littoral Tame Scenery Types of Nationality Mismanage- 
 ment of Loans Characteristics of the Peruvians Indians on 
 the Coast Degraded Races Resemblances of Races The 
 Lost Ten Tribes Indians of the Sierra Coca-chewing Various 
 Races Character of the Peruvians Literature of Peru Poets 
 of Peru Peruvian Poetry Traces of African Blood Mixed, 
 very Mixed Races Pride of Caste The Zambo-Pariahs 
 Native intelligence Missionary Work Beauty of the Chacra 
 Produce grown in the Chacras Vegetables of Peru Fruits 
 of Peru Riches of Peru Mines, Ancient and Modern 
 Antiquarian Researches Hidden Treasures Death of Ata- 
 hualpa Conclusion 248 
 
THE PERUVIANS AT HOME. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 WESTWARD HO! 
 
 Routes Starting H.M. Mails Farewell " Life on the Ocean 
 Wave" Social Influences First Sight of the West Indies 
 St. Thomas Coaling Jackmel Kingston Mr. Bagot 
 Smith Home-welcoming Necessities Black Labour 
 View from Mr. Smith's Villa Road to Newcastle Life on 
 a Sugar Estate Cane versus Beetroot Sugar. 
 
 IN 1872, the' writer went out on board one of the 
 Royal Mail steamers, which leave Southampton fort- 
 nightly for the West Indies. His destination was 
 Peru, in which country he resided for over two years. 
 But his knowledge of the country and of its people 
 is not limited to the experiences gained during his 
 residence, for he has maintained a continuous corre- 
 spondence with the friends he made there ever since 
 he returned home. Arriving at St. Thomas, after 
 fifteen days' steaming, he changed into another 
 
 
2 ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 
 
 steamer, which landed him at Colon, or " Aspinwall," 
 as it has been renamed in these latter days. It is of 
 little use describing a voyage which has already been 
 so often described. The name Aspinwall was given 
 to the port originally named Colon, after Columbus, 
 by the American speculator who "promoted" and 
 carried out the Panama Railway. He covered that 
 narrow and singular strip of country, which, as the 
 maps show, unites the large continents of North and 
 South America by a narrow neck of land. Mere thread 
 as it is, it is at present causing a sufficient amount of 
 difficulty to M. de Lesseps and his shareholders, now 
 that the question of cutting it has come prominently 
 forward. 
 
 From the other side of the isthmus the writer 
 took ship for Peru ; the cost of the single journey 
 from London to Lima, including incidental expenses, 
 was little under ;loo, and took a month to accom- 
 plish, facts which make one realize the distance, and 
 the fact that Peru, interesting country as it is and 
 full of unexplored beauties, lies somewhat beyond the 
 range of the ordinary British tourist. 
 
 Time, to the writer, was an object, otherwise those 
 who enjoy the sea, and much of it, would prefer the 
 longer and slower route, which, touching at more than 
 one point the coast of Brazil, takes the traveller 
 through the Straits of Magellan, bordered on either 
 side by high snow-clad mountains, and thence along 
 the whole length of the beautiful coasts of Patagonia 
 
DIFFERENT ROUTES. 3 
 
 and Chili, affording glimpses of fine scenery, and a 
 brief acquaintance with many different countries and 
 varying types of humanity. As to the cost of this 
 route, it is much the same as the other, but the differ- 
 ence in time is considerable, the Straits route taking 
 about six weeks, as against a month by the isthmus. 
 
 Peru maybe reached by yet a third route, namely, 
 by crossing the Atlantic from Liverpool to New York, 
 and then taking one of the steamers which ply between 
 that place and the Gulf of Mexico, going on to Aspin- 
 wall. The writer returned home by this route, and 
 the pleasant and instructive society he met on board, 
 consisting of Californian families returning to the 
 States from Aspinwall, caused him to rejoice in his 
 decision. This route involves a stoppage for a few 
 days in New York, giving an opportunity of seeing 
 the sights in that interesting city, also the beauties of 
 the Hudson River. 
 
 Of the three routes, the West Indian is to be pre- 
 ferred, on account of the shorter time and superior 
 conveniences. 
 
 On embarking at Southampton on board the 
 Royal Mail Steamship Company's ship Nile, the deck 
 was a scene of bustle and excitement. " St. Thomas," 
 " Vera Cruz," "Jamaica," " Panama," " Colon," " Cal- 
 lao," " Mexillones," "St. Kitts," "Antigua," are a few 
 of the names shouted out as the mail-bags are tossed 
 up from the quay, for stowing away in their respective 
 places on board the huge and crowded boat just start- 
 
4 THE MAILS. 
 
 ing for the West Indies. These English mail-bags, 
 generally the latest arrivals at all departures, whether 
 of steamers or trains, how numerous they are, and 
 how indicative of the multiplicity of "British interests," 
 and also of the many relatives and friends who must 
 be living far away from all they love and revere in 
 their native land ! In honourable banishment and not 
 forgotten, as these ponderous mail-bags show, and most 
 of them with the hope, more or less well founded, of 
 " making their fortune " and " coming home to spend 
 it," in some cases to be realized, in others -well, per- 
 haps there are some " whose mind to them a kingdom 
 is," and who can make themselves as happy and con- 
 tented in the land of their adoption, with the interests 
 they create for themselves, as they would be at home. 
 More so indeed in many cases, we may reflect as we 
 look round on the struggle for bread in this over- 
 stocked old country, as witness the dozens of eligible 
 applicants called forth by the announcement of one 
 small poorly paid vacancy in almost any depart- 
 ment. 
 
 After the mail-bags follow a number of boxes of 
 <( specie," which are carefully slid along the bridge and 
 thence taken to the safe room. At length the bitter 
 " parting hour " has arrived, the bell rings for visitors 
 to leave, hands are pressed and tears shed, and a 
 never-to-be-forgotten epoch is marked in the lives of 
 many, some of whom are now bidding each other 
 farewell for ever, happier that they know it not. In 
 
WE ARE OFF. 5 
 
 this case the old adage may be true, " Where ignorance 
 is bliss, 'twere folly to be wise." Ah ! life, with all its 
 intricacies, uncertainties, and deep mysteries, and its 
 many sorrows, does it contain for any one of us any- 
 thing so bitter or which saddens the heart so com- 
 pletely as the act of bidding farewell to one we love, 
 with the consciousness that we may never meet again 
 alive ? 
 
 But the sad episode is over, and now the engines 
 commence to move, at first slowly (something like a 
 wrestler who cautiously feels the strength of his adver- 
 sary before putting forth his whole might), and with 
 a brisk south-south-west breeze on her bow, the Nile 
 clears out of Southampton Water, and makes for the 
 open Channel. In this age of much travelling, there 
 are few who have not had some experience of these 
 Atlantic liners, which are considered of no account 
 unless they are fitted and provided with all the com- 
 forts and conveniences of a first-class hotel on shore. 
 In the writer's experience, life on the open sea always 
 follows much the same monotonous routine, and this 
 ennui is only regulated in proportion to the state of our 
 own health, our capability of falling back on our own 
 resources, or on a due appreciation of the society of 
 our fellow-travellers. To most, it is to be feared, " the 
 tocsin of the soul, the dinner-bell," marks the great 
 event of the day. The writer was once advised by a 
 " globe-trotter " and author, who has long ago made 
 his mark, never to publish the menu of any meal he 
 
6 STUDIES OF CHARACTER. 
 
 might have consumed during his travels, unless it 
 contained something quite out of the common, The 
 ordinary itinerary of life at sea for most of us does 
 not merit more record than the menu; but to the 
 sympathetic mind there is to be found an exhaustless 
 field of study among the various characters of our 
 fellow-travellers. Perhaps no other situation affords 
 quite so good an opportunity for reading the character 
 and disposition of a fellow-creature as that of a long 
 sea-voyage. Withdrawn from his habitual associa- 
 tions and occupations, a person's character becomes 
 as it were unmasked ; official duties which impose an 
 artificial restraint and often induce an air of repellant 
 formality are thrown on one side ; the presence of 
 wife, husband, or child, which unconsciously influences 
 our conduct, is missed ; and under these circumstances, 
 the most chary and unsociable human being unbends, 
 sinks differences, and falls into conversation with his 
 neighbour. In a few days on board ship we get to 
 know more of our neighbours' thoughts and character 
 than in years of casual meeting " in society." And 
 thus is the tedium of a long voyage beguiled, for " the 
 proper study of mankind is man." 
 
 Perhaps there is no more wonderful and pleasing 
 sight to be seen anywhere by an Englishman than 
 the very first glimpse of the West Indian Islands. 
 Accustomed all his life to the heavy atmosphere 
 and dark days of an English winter, the bright sun- 
 shine and brilliant colours of the West suddenly burst 
 
FAIRYLAND. ^ 
 
 on his view, and at first the sight seems too gorgeous 
 to be real, and as if our fancy had conjured up some 
 highly wrought brain-picture of an enchanted land. 
 It is difficult to believe that those pink objects, golden- 
 tipped by the rising sun, which appear to float on the 
 surface of the dark blue line where sea and sky meet, 
 are real islands, or that the beautiful blue liquid, 
 smooth as a lake, through which we are piercing our 
 way, is the same element and composed of exactly 
 the same substances as the brown, angry-looking 
 waves which we left behind not long ago in the Eng- 
 lish Channel. Then the sight of porpoises rolling and 
 racing astern, as if their very lives depended on their 
 arriving at St. Thomas before the ship, and the flying- 
 fish darting high up in the air, their bright scales 
 flashing in the sunshine like bits of highly polished 
 silver, increases the bewilderment and favours the 
 idea of unreality and enchantment. 
 
 " The flying-fish leap 
 From the Indian deep, 
 And mix with the sea-birds half asleep." 
 
 SHELLEY. 
 
 Beautiful isles of the West ! If bright colours, 
 clear sunshine, and a warm but genial atmosphere, 
 together with a fruitful soil, producing abundant and 
 varied growth, were the only requisite elements to 
 form an earthly paradise, how fitting would be that 
 designation for you ! 
 
 The first land touched in the New World was 
 
8 ST. THOMAS. 
 
 St. Thomas, one of the Virgin Islands, formerly the 
 central depot for all West Indian produce and trade. 
 A natural bay, shaped like a horse-shoe, but of 
 moderate size, with entrance to the south, forms a 
 harbour, sheltered on all sides from the wind by high 
 hills clothed with verdure. The violence of the hurri- 
 canes, which from time to time sweep round the bay 
 and carry everything afloat before them to destruction, 
 is by many attributed to the height of the surrounding 
 hills, which offer no escape to the wind. It is asserted 
 that the hurricane rotates round the bay again and 
 again, like the water in a whirlpool, gaining strength 
 at each rotation. 
 
 The agencies of the various shipping companies 
 are situated in the front of the anchorage ground, and 
 behind them runs the principal street, with shops full 
 of a variety of articles, principally of apparel. There 
 are also several hotels, the best of which was the 
 Hotel de France, where visitors on shore obtained 
 some excellent cream ices, which were rendered 
 doubly acceptable by the excessive heat of the 
 weather. 
 
 It was a relief to get on shore and escape the noise 
 and dust of " coaling," which commenced in right 
 earnest soon after the anchor had dropped in fact, 
 our ship soon became the prey of the coalers. A 
 huge barge was moored on either side, loaded to the 
 top with coal, and an army of sturdy blacks, naked 
 to the waist, set to work shovelling coal into baskets, 
 
COALING. 9 
 
 which were then carried by women to the shoot, and 
 their contents discharged into the hold of the steamer. 
 The women were as rough and uncouth as the men. 
 But the labour was carried on under a continuous 
 stream of jokes and songs ; for the negro is a careless, 
 jovial fellow> under whatever circumstances he may be 
 found. Compared with his more serious brother, the 
 white man, he is thoughtless as a child. Now and 
 then the coalers would stop working, and the whole 
 gang join in some such chorus as the following : 
 
 " He is a hang-dog, Johnny, .. 
 Aha ! aha ! aha ! aha ! 
 But him don't hang the old man " 
 
 the " old man " possibly meaning the stern arm of 
 law and justice. 
 
 The noise of coaling, varied by the songs of the 
 coalers, continued all night and all the following day, 
 which was Sunday. 
 
 The passage from St. Thomas to Colon was made 
 in the steamship Corsica, a ship of smaller tonnage 
 than the Nile, and offering less comfort and conve- 
 nience to passengers. Touching at Jackmel, the port 
 of Hayti whose inhabitants are said to live in a 
 chronic state of revolution, but were fortunately at 
 that time unusually quiet to put down the mails and 
 a single passenger, the Corsica steamed on to Port 
 Royal in Jamaica, where she was overhauled by the 
 health inspector. Kingston Harbour lies three miles 
 
io KINGSTON. 
 
 further up the Straits ; it is formed by a narrow strip 
 of land projecting straight out from the mainland, and 
 then curving round and running parallel for some 
 length, thus providing one of the safest of the many 
 natural harbours to be found in the West Indies. 
 
 A fellow-passenger, Mr. Bagot Smith, paymaster 
 in her Majesty's forces, now returning to his duties at 
 Kingston, offered the hospitalities of his temporary 
 home, by which the writer profited, for so good an 
 opportunity of seeing something of Jamaica and West 
 Indian life was not to be lost. 
 
 The town of Kingston is well laid out, especially 
 the western portion, where the houses are well built 
 and spacious, with a wide balcony running all round 
 the ground floor, providing a shady cool resting-place 
 during the hot hours of the- day. Most of these 
 dwellings have large gardens, in which grow magnolia 
 and banana trees, whose delicious fruit and beautiful 
 foliage add not inconsiderably to the pleasures of 
 West Indian life. Leaving the town, the road to Mr. 
 Smith's house passed over the wide even plain, which 
 intervenes between the coast and the range of hills 
 rising several thousand feet above sea level, and which, 
 in consequence, are said to afford every imaginable 
 variety of climate. The house is some six miles dis- 
 tant from Kingston, and at its elevation, one thousand 
 feet above the sea, the air is cool and pleasant, even 
 in the summer months. On the way up, a long level 
 tract of ground was pointed out as the local race- 
 
CACTUS HEDGES. 11 
 
 course ; for even here in the West Indies, the sporting 
 proclivities of the English race find an outlet. The 
 " turf" looked brown and baked by the sun, and the 
 grass was thin and weedy, which the driver of Mr. 
 Smith's buggy accounted for by saying that no rain 
 had fallen for two months, and the country was suffer- 
 ing from the prolonged drought. 
 
 The tall cacti, which formed a thick picturesque 
 hedge some twelve feet in height on either side of the 
 road, seemed alone among the vegetable world not to 
 suffer from the want of water. Here and there groups 
 of cocoa trees, their tall smooth trunks like the masts 
 of a ship, surmounted with magnificent heads of huge 
 fan-like palm leaves, offered tempting oases of shade 
 from the sun's heat. These were, however, quite inac- 
 cessible, owing to the low brushwood which generally 
 clothed the hillside. 
 
 Several nigger huts were passed along the road, 
 and many a hearty welcome was shouted to Mr. 
 Smith by their occupants, who were generally seated 
 in front of their dwellings. One fat old lady, beaming 
 with smiles and good-nature, inquired tenderly after 
 his family and children (whom she had never seen), 
 and put all manner of questions about England, Queen 
 Victoria, Mr. Gladstone, and the expected comet ! 
 " Me so glad to see you back, Massa Smith ; and you 
 do look so well, you do, sir. You look quite bloomy, 
 dat you do, sir ! " she cried, as the buggy moved on. 
 A male nigger, who together with his cordiality had 
 
12 NEGROES IN JAMAICA. 
 
 evidently an eye to the main chance, shouted, " Hey, 
 Massa Smith, you come back ? Yes. Well, me hope 
 you brought me hun'red pound ! " These Jamaican 
 blacks appear to be a happy, good-humoured, lazy 
 race, asking nothing but to be allowed to earn the 
 simplest of food with the least possible expenditure of 
 physical exertion. A rough cabin is easily formed of 
 boughs and twigs interlaced, the roof plastered over 
 and made watertight with mud ; a small plot of ground 
 behind is dug over and planted with the thrice blessed 
 yam ; and, hey presto ! here is a home and means of 
 providing in plenty for husband, wife, and numerous 
 progeny. 
 
 The yam, or West Indian potato, is the universal 
 and frequently the sole article of diet used among the 
 Jamaica negroes, who seldom eat meat of any kind. 
 More often than not, the humble garden is also 
 planted with banana, fig, and orange trees, the fruit of 
 which is taken down to Kingston market to be sold, 
 the proceeds supplying clothing and other small 
 household needs of the family. In a climate so 
 genial and so suited to the negro race, the necessities 
 of life (as they understand it) are few and easily 
 obtained, the pressing need for fuel to soften the 
 rigours of the climate, which taxes our own poor so 
 heavily, being unknown in Jamaica; for there, at least 
 on the coast, the inhabitants can, if they like, sleep out 
 of doors nearly all the year round, without danger of 
 catching cold. Thus the ambition of the Jamaica 
 
THEIR LAZINESS. 13 
 
 black is limited to the power of purchasing a small 
 plot of ground on which to form his homestead as 
 described, and to be able to lead a life of comparative 
 idleness, interrupted only by the days' labour he may 
 think fit to give to others, with the view of gaining 
 sufficient to supply the deficiency of income which 
 his own plot of land fails in doing. It is a fact 
 generally admitted in Jamaica, that the negro will 
 only offer himself for hire under extreme pressure ; for 
 as long as he has a crust of brown bread and a yam 
 for dinner, he feels himself quite independent of all 
 men. "A crust of bread and liberty" is his motto, 
 and to bask idly in the sun his ideal of happiness. 
 It is owing to this characteristic idleness, which is 
 probably constitutional in the negro, that the larger 
 employers of labour in the West Indies are turning 
 their attention to the useful and industrious China- 
 man, who may already be found employed in large 
 numbers in several of the islands belonging to the 
 British, as well as in Hayti and Cuba. 
 
 The view from Mr. Smith's house, built as it is on 
 the slope of the hill, is very picturesque. Immediately 
 beneath lies Kingston, with its white-washed buildings 
 peeping through the rich tropical foliage ; and beyond 
 that the blue sea, stretching away to Port Royal 
 (which we had passed that morning), with ships 
 sporting the bunting of nearly all nations, anchored 
 off land ; beyond this, the darker blue of the broad 
 Atlantic in the far distance, marking a scarcely per- 
 
14 FINE SCENERY. 
 
 ceptible line where it meets the sky, which rivals 
 it in pureness and density of colouring. To right 
 and left spread the hills in gentle undulations, their 
 slopes covered with verdure, wild flowers, and cactus 
 in full bloom, and the masses of low green shrubs 
 which characterize this part of the country. Towards 
 evening, when all nature seemed to be preparing 
 for rest, the scene was most impressive, one to 
 touch even a traveller of world-wide experience with 
 feelings of pleasure. The red and golden hues of the 
 setting sun were reflected on the water beneath, while 
 they tipped the hill-tops with golden gleams, as if 
 loth to quit the lovely scene of tropical luxuriance. 
 It was a glorious new experience to the travellers 
 recently arrived from the dark and chilly North. 
 
 No visitor to Kingston should neglect to drive up 
 the beautiful valley which gives access to the interior, 
 and to the military sanitarium at Newcastle, situated 
 high up among the hills. This valley is the chosen 
 place of residence for the richer Kingston merchants 
 and government officials, who build themselves charm- 
 ing villas on either side of the stream which runs down 
 the centre. The ground all round is well wooded and 
 clothed with beautiful flowers and plants, and one 
 can well understand how glad the business men must 
 be to reach such an agreeable retreat after the day's 
 work has been done in hot, dusty Kingston. 
 
 Perhaps the most enjoyable mode of existence in 
 the West Indies is that led by the farmer, or, more 
 
A SUGAR-PLANTER'S DAY. 15 
 
 properly speaking, the landed proprietor, since there 
 is no regular class of tenant-farmers in Jamaica as at 
 home, the land being invariably cultivated by the 
 owner himself. Mr. Rose, one of our fellow-passengers 
 on the Nile, who was returning from a short visit, 
 described in words which amounted to ecstasy the life 
 he had led in Barbadoes, where his father had pur- 
 chased for him an estate. Rising at five a.m., he used 
 to ride round his property, and, to quote his own 
 words, " talk sugar-stick " with his manager or factor 
 until ten, when he breakfasted. This " talking sugar- 
 stick " included, as may be imagined, a great variety 
 of subjects, such as the planting and watering of the 
 cane, labour, machinery, and all the numerous arrange- 
 ments which have to be made daily on a sugar estate, 
 be its size large or small. During the heat of the 
 day, correspondence and accounts were got through, 
 and at five p.m. either another visit would be paid 
 to the plantations or a call made upon a neighbour. 
 Occasional balls and parties vary the routine of a life 
 which is nearly always an industrious and simple one, 
 removed as it is from the constant temptations and 
 excitements so easy of attainment in busy, restless 
 Europe. " But to be really happy in Barbadoes, a 
 man should be married," said Mr. Rose. Most young 
 men living alone in the country (ay me, even in a 
 town !), and surrounded with plenty and luxury, must 
 naturally yearn for the companionship of the gentler 
 sex, and they will probably agree with the speaker, 
 
16 CANE VERSUS BEETROOT SUGAR. 
 
 who, in fact, did not long delay acting up to his opinion 
 we will hope with all the success he expected. 
 
 Unfortunately, sugar-growing in the West Indies 
 is not so prosperous a business now as it was in former 
 years, and especially in the old slave-dealing days, 
 when labour was cheap and plentiful. But besides the 
 greater cost of labour, planters have to contend with 
 severe competition from the beetroot industry of 
 France, which has been extensively developed under 
 the encouraging protective laws of that country. Not- 
 withstanding the large proportion of saccharine matter 
 produced by a given quantity of beet, its cultivation 
 and treatment in France have been found to be rela- 
 tively less remunerative than that of sugar-cane in 
 the West Indies, Peru, and other tropical countries, 
 which are entirely unsubsidized by the State, and 
 where manual labour is both difficult to obtain and 
 expensive. Perhaps the quality of the different sugars 
 as they are sold in the market may have some- 
 thing to say to this, double quantities of beetroot 
 sugar being required to produce the effect of half the 
 amount when that manufactured from the cane is 
 used.* This may be one encouragement to our 
 colonists. Let us hope that the novel experiment of 
 
 * A fashionable French lady informed the writer the other 
 day in Paris that she always ordered her sugar from London. 
 She explained that the best quality of English crystallized sugar 
 is superior to French sugar of the same description in sweetness 
 and clearness, and is therefore more acceptable at the "five 
 o'clock teas " which have lately become fashionable at Paris. 
 
THE CARIBBEAN SEA. 17 
 
 introducing cheap Chinese labour may bring them 
 better fortune and prove the means of restoring at 
 least partial prosperity to these beautiful islands, the 
 possession of which has always been a source of pride 
 and also profit to Englishmen. 
 
 But we must not linger too long by the way. 
 Jamaica and its interesting associations are at last left 
 behind, and after three days' very rough tossing on 
 the Caribbean Sea, we reach the port of Colon, or 
 Aspinwall, and, for the first time, the writer sets foot 
 on American soil. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 ISTHMUS OF PANAMA AND THE PERUVIAN 
 LITTORAL. 
 
 Colon Panama Railway Luxuriant Vegetation Native Fruits 
 Mulatto Labour Panama City of Panama American 
 Enterprise Streets of Panama Poorer Population M. de 
 Lesseps and the Panama Canal Dredges The Canal 
 Quantity of Material Harbours Contracts Expected 
 Time of Completion Estimated Benefits Coast of the 
 Pacific Alligator Hunting Guayaquil The Sea-coast 
 The Littoral Rainless Districts Cultivation of Rice 
 Rice Abstemious Habits. 
 
 SOON after landing at Colon, the traveller finds himself 
 confronted by a colossal bronze statue of Christopher 
 Columbus, the gift of the late Emperor of the French 
 to the State of Columbia. Columbus stands in an 
 upright position, clothed in a loose robe, and stretch- 
 ing out his right hand in a protecting attitude over 
 the form of a female Indian, who kneels at his feet 
 and whose features are apparently moved by emotions 
 of astonishment and fear. Altogether it is a striking 
 and suggestive object which greets the traveller straight 
 from European shores. 
 
PANAMA RAILWAY. 19 
 
 The foreshore round Colon is flat and marshy, and 
 is said to be very unhealthy during the wet seasons, 
 when yellow fever often prevails. The town itself 
 contains few objects of interest, consisting as it does 
 simply of the usual miscellaneous assortment of stores, 
 provision and drinking houses, which are always to be 
 found in the less civilized South American seaports. 
 The lack of good hotel accommodation is explained 
 by the fact that passengers on landing proceed im- 
 mediately across to Panama, where every necessity is 
 supplied. The distance across, from Colon to Panama, 
 is about forty-five miles, but the fares charged for the 
 transit by the American Railway Company, in 1872, 
 would bear comparison as to extortion with those of 
 any civilized European country. We were charged 
 $ per passenger, and at the rate of five cents for 
 every pound of luggage exceeding one hundred and 
 fifty. 
 
 After leaving the terminus, which is situated on 
 the Island of Manzanillo, the railway crosses the 
 narrow strait separating the island from the mainland, 
 and enters a level country which is in places sub- 
 merged by the overflow of the River Chagres ; the 
 line touches the river itself at a point about five miles 
 from Aspinwall. On either side of the road a dense 
 impenetrable forest of bright green luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion flourishes to a height of thirty or forty feet, 
 forming an effectual but undesirable shelter from the 
 breeze which blows every afternoon from the sea. 
 
20 THE CH ACRES. 
 
 Trees, shrubs, and tendrils in endless combinations of 
 colour entwine together, sometimes joining, sometimes 
 stifling each other. From the rich leaf-mould pro- 
 duced by the decay of all this rich vegetation after 
 the fall of the leaf, fresh plants rise, apparently more 
 vigorous and richer, owing to the manure produced 
 and added to each season. 
 
 Ten miles further on, and the Chagres is crossed, 
 and the rise to the Andes begins. This mountain 
 chain is here at its lowest. The view from the sum- 
 mit, situate half-way between two mighty oceans, is 
 perhaps unique of its kind. Here and there the tops 
 of tall palm trees and bananas overlook the dense 
 forest of fir, birch, olive, and orange trees, which 
 spreads nearly all over the country. But this luxuri- 
 ance of vegetation proved a serious obstacle to the 
 completion of the railway. When the ground was 
 cleared, vegetation quickly sprang up again as strongly 
 as ever, if the surface was left untouched even for 
 a few days. 
 
 About half-way across the isthmus, the train 
 stopped at a small station, where a number of native 
 Columbians came to offer for sale to the passengers 
 fruit and flowers and cooling drinks of their own 
 preparation. Among the baskets of bananas, prickly 
 pears, and oranges, we noticed the chirimoya, perhaps 
 the most delicious of all tropical fruits. Its fruit 
 is round, the largest about the size of a small cocoa- 
 nut ; externally it is green, the skin being rather thick 
 
THE CHIRIMOYA. 21 
 
 and tough. The fruit is snow-white and juicy, and 
 provided with numerous small black seeds covered 
 with a delicate substance resembling ice-cream. Both 
 fruit and flower of the chirimoya emit a fine fragrance, 
 which, when the tree is in full blossom, is very strong. 
 It is difficult to describe the flavour of this fruit, unique 
 and delicious as it is. 
 
 The vendors of these delicacies, chiefly women, 
 all belonged to the native Columbian Creoles, with 
 perhaps more of the native Indian than Spanish blood 
 in their veins. Some of the younger ones would 
 have been reckoned " pretty " anywhere, their regular 
 features, olive complexion, and dark eyes beaming 
 with a somewhat subdued and sad expression, and 
 their lithe graceful figures forming a type of female 
 beauty which must be admired whenever seen. As is 
 customary among all South American women, the 
 hair, which is dark and grows straight and not curling, 
 is worn in two long plaits falling over the shoulders 
 They seemed to know but a few words of Spanish, 
 which words, however, they used freely to press their 
 wares on their customers. 
 
 Work on the railway is done almost entirely by 
 mulattoes, overlooked by Americans, it having been 
 found impossible to induce the natives to leave their 
 farms and accept regular service under the company. 
 As a rule, these mulattoes are big burly fellows, 
 apparently endued with great physical strength ; they 
 are coarse-featured, and as to their characters, lazy 
 
22 MODERN ETHIOPIANS. 
 
 and untrustworthy to a degree. The writer has 
 closely observed the Ethiopian eye, which expresses, 
 as a rule, the character of its possessor. When stirred 
 by anger, the native savagery of the aborigine shows 
 itself a savagery which has not been tamed by the 
 restraints of civilization, and therefore closely re- 
 sembles that of the beast it burns through these coal- 
 black optics, and tells of the devilish spirit which 
 lurks within. At other times, these same eyes are 
 capable of expressing the deepest pathos and affec- 
 tion, or greed and avarice with equal intensity, when 
 love or selfishness becomes the motive power. 
 
 Panama, which is the western terminus of the 
 railway, used to be an important military and com- 
 mercial centre during the long period Spain ruled 
 over those vast countries of South America. The 
 place was at one time considered a kind of capital 
 or centre of government, whence troops and instruc- 
 tions were sent to the governors and viceroys of the 
 Spanish colonies situate on the west coast of America, 
 which comprised in the aggregate an immense terri- 
 tory, extending from the Straits of Magellan to what 
 is now called British Columbia. The royal mails, 
 starting from the coast of Spain, were sent in a 
 direction as straight as the winds would allow to 
 Colon, and from thence carried across the isthmus 
 over a paved causeway, the remains of which the 
 writer observed still traceable in the vicinity of 
 Panama. This city now contains a cathedral and 
 
" THE MONROE DOCTRINE." 23 
 
 several smaller churches and convents ; these are 
 frequently built of cut stone and present a most 
 habitable and substantial appearance. The ruins of 
 one church specially attracted attention, on account 
 of the apparent unsuitability of the design in a 
 country where earthquakes are of such frequent 
 occurrence. The roof of this church had been sup- 
 ported by a series of wide-spanning arches, the 
 remains of which were scattered on the ground in all 
 directions. 
 
 Panama boasts of its grand hotel, besides several 
 smaller ones. " The Grand " is due to the enter- 
 prising spirit of certain Americans. As it stands, it is 
 an actual proof that the Monroe doctrine, by right 
 of which the United States Government claims the 
 exclusive right of interfering in the political affairs 
 of the South American countries, is not looked upon 
 as a dead letter by its citizens, but acted upon in 
 real earnest. The remarkable interest taken by the 
 citizens of the United States in the affairs of the 
 southern continent and its inhabitants is apparent in 
 the number of North Americans to be found in all 
 the larger towns of Peru, Chili, Ecuador, Costa Rica, 
 and other states, bringing with them their " notions " 
 of improvement, and assisting the natives to develop 
 the natural resources of the soil. Indeed, the destiny 
 of a great number of these small republics ^not to 
 mention the bigger ones) is probably to be absorbed 
 by the greater power of the North, which is con- 
 
24 AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. 
 
 tinually, like the octopus on the sea-shore, or like 
 Russia in the northern hemisphere, stretching out its 
 encroaching arms. Here they extend in a southerly 
 direction. However this may be, the fact that the 
 Americans regard with eyes of extreme jealousy any 
 Europeans who may visit the west coast was patent 
 to the writer. It seems an idea common to all great 
 and powerful nations that the proximity of countries 
 inhabited by new or weaker races calls for a special 
 and singular " protection " to be extended over them. 
 As in Europe, so in America, the " mission of Holy 
 Russia," has it not resulted in the annexation, "at the 
 earnest request of the Khans," of an immense and 
 valuable tract of land extending to the much-talked- 
 of Merv ? Is American enterprise likely to be behind- 
 hand in the rich sparsely inhabited countries joining 
 them ? The advantages promised by such special 
 protection consist of the exclusive right of educating 
 the native to wear clothes, and of supplying him 
 therewith, together with other luxuries, the desire for 
 which is induced by his introduction to civilization. 
 Obviously, this system has given birth to doctrines 
 analogous to the " Monroe " before now. 
 
 The streets of Panama, with their shops well 
 furnished with the various products of South America, 
 alongside of the more artistic manufactures of Paris 
 and Vienna, and the quaint figures and faces met 
 with on the trottoirs, are interesting to see ; but the 
 high temperature must make Panama a very un- 
 
ELEPHANTISIS. 25 
 
 desirable residence for any length of time. The 
 centre of the town, and that portion facing the beau- 
 tiful Bay of Panama, dotted with its picturesque 
 islands, and the suburbs which lie on the eastern side, 
 are the most favoured places for a stroll in the early 
 morning or in the cool of the evening. Like most 
 cities, Panama has its poor (or rather its poorer) popu- 
 lation ; for in South America no one who is fit for 
 any kind of work need remain for long in want of food. 
 They live in rows of cottages built of bamboo in the 
 outskirts ; they are chiefly mulattoes, and belong to 
 the labouring class. They are employed about the 
 shipping in the bay, the town buildings, or as porters 
 in the carriage of goods to and from the country or 
 the railway. It was quite distressing to observe how 
 prevalent among them was that frightful and unsightly 
 disease elephantisis, in which one leg swells and 
 swells till it assumes elephantine proportions. This 
 disease is attributed to impoverishment of blood 
 brought about by fever it seems almost entirely 
 confined to mulattoes, or to those having some trace 
 of negro blood in their veins. 
 
 Public interest in the Isthmus of Panama has 
 enormously increased since M. de Lesseps commenced 
 the cutting of the canal by which it is intended to 
 connect the Atlantic with the Pacific Ocean. M. de 
 Lesseps, who is President-directeur of the " Com- 
 pagnie Universelle du Canal Interoceanique," the 
 society charged with this important undertaking, has 
 
26 THE PANAMA CANAL. 
 
 recently been so good as to forward to the author 
 particulars of the scheme. Although the object 
 aimed at is well understood, and has been discussed 
 in many places and by many men, the precise means 
 by which, as it is hoped, the object may be attained 
 do not appear to have been yet published in English, 
 either by the press or in any private work. A brief 
 description of the scheme may therefore perhaps be of 
 interest, now that public attention is directed that way. 
 The general plan of the canal is easily described, 
 but the methods prepared for overcoming the diffi- 
 culties which may be expected en route are far too 
 numerous and complicated to elucidate here. It is 
 proposed to cut a trench, measuring twenty-two 
 metres at the bottom (the surface of the water will 
 measure fifty metres in breadth), from one side of the 
 isthmus to the other, at a sufficient depth to provide 
 eight and a half metres of water throughout. The 
 total length of the canal, measured from the Bay of 
 Limon in the Atlantic to a point opposite the island 
 of Perico in the Bay of Panama, these being the two 
 entrances, is seventy-five kilometres. On the Panama 
 side, for a length of fourteen kilometres, and on the 
 Colon side for about twenty kilometres, the canal will 
 be, in great measure, excavated with the help of steam 
 dredges. These dredges, the largest and most efficient 
 of which are those manufactured in the United States, 
 are destined to be of incalculable use in excavating 
 the enormous quantity of material which must be 
 
THE WORKS. 27 
 
 removed to form the canal. The average daily work 
 performed by one of the largest of these dredges, in 
 marshy or soft ground, is stated to be 3800 cubic 
 metres ; but when beds of coral are met with, the 
 quantity diminishes to 1200 metres. The smaller 
 dredges excavate about 800 metres per diem, under 
 the most favourable circumstances. 
 
 The difficulties to be overcome in cutting the 
 central portion of the canal, where it will have to be 
 cut through the Cordillera for a length of forty kilo- 
 metres, are of much greater magnitude than those 
 found in the two preceding sections. From the twen- 
 tieth kilometre (on the Atlantic side), where the 
 surface of he ground is about eight metres above 
 sea level, the ground rises gradually to the summit, 
 where it attains an altitude of 160 metres. From the 
 summit, the ground falls abruptly towards the Pacific, 
 being at the sixtieth kilometre only eight metres 
 above sea level, and from that point it slopes gradually 
 to the level of the sea. 
 
 It will be understood that in order to cut a canal, 
 which shall have no locks, wide enough to allow of 
 two ships passing each other, through ground which 
 rises to this considerable altitude, the removal of an 
 enormous quantity of earth and rock is necessary. 
 In fact, at the meeting of the shareholders of the 
 company, held in Paris, on the 28th of September 
 last, M. Dingier, managing engineer of the canal 
 works, stated that " the great difficulty of the under- 
 
28 THE ROUTE SELECTED. 
 
 taking was the enormous quantity of material which 
 has to be removed, and which is estimated at 
 100,000,000 cubic metres." 
 
 Taking the easiest attainable route across the 
 isthmus, the canal will intersect and, in many cases, 
 occupy the beds of existing rivers, the largest and 
 most important of which is the Chagres, which dis- 
 charges into the Bay of Limon. For obvious 
 reasons it was thought unadvisable to discharge the 
 water of this river into the canal. The line of the 
 Chagres is therefore to be diverted, and its waters 
 will empty themselves into the ocean through a 
 number of new channels, which will be cut separately 
 but parallel to each other. To reduce these new 
 drainage canals to as small dimensions as possible, it 
 is proposed to accumulate the flood waters inundating 
 the Upper Chagres in the winter months into an 
 immense artificial reservoir, which will be capable of 
 storing a milliard of cubic metres of water. This 
 reservoir is to be formed by throwing an embankment 
 (the materials for which will be excavated from the 
 canal) across a deep and wide valley at the point 
 where the Obispo and Santa Cruz hills face each 
 other at no great distance. The quantity of material 
 which will be absorbed by this embankment will be 
 no less than seven million cubic metres. M. Dingier, 
 while admitting that to form a similar embankment 
 in France would cost no less than four francs per 
 cubic yard, thinks that on the isthmus one franc per 
 
ITS COST. 29 
 
 metre will cover the cost ; so that in his opinion the 
 whole embankment and the works accessory to it will 
 cost only eight millions of francs. 
 
 The formation of suitable harbours will be an 
 inconsiderable work, in comparison with the cutting 
 of the canal proper. At Colon, it is thought that 
 ample shelter will be provided by throwing out two 
 breakwaters indeed, perhaps one will suffice ; while 
 at Panama it will be sufficient simply to cut a deep 
 channel through the shallow waters of the bay, which 
 is already naturally protected. 
 
 With 100,000,000 cubic metres of earth and rock 
 to be removed before the canal can be made, the 
 estimated cost of the undertaking, put by M. de 
 Lesseps at 600,000,000 francs, has naturally excited 
 some criticism. The accounts of the company show 
 that about one-third of this capital sum has already 
 been exhausted in acquiring a large interest in the 
 Panama railroad, in the purchase of materials, the 
 construction of edifices, and the removal of 4,555,534 
 cubic metres of earthworks, which is the total quan- 
 tity excavated up to March 31, 1884, according to 
 the official returns. 
 
 The contract price of the dredging at Panama, 
 which is being done by the Franco-American Trading 
 Company of New York, is I fr. 50 c. per cubic metre ; 
 and at Colon, where the American Contracting and 
 Dredging Company are the contractors, it varies from 
 I fr. 29 c. to I fr. 50 c. per cubic metre. The work of 
 
30 ITS PROSPECTS. 
 
 excavation in the central portion of the isthmus is 
 nearly all being done by blacks belonging to Jamaica 
 and other West Indian Islands, who have been in- 
 duced to come over by the offer of unlimited employ- 
 ment on the canal. The excavation is all done by 
 piecework, and, according to the report of Lieutenant 
 Rodgers, of the U.S.N., to his Government, dated 
 January 27, 1884, the actual price paid for work 
 performed on the Culebra or summit section ranges 
 from three to eight francs per cubic metre. 
 
 The date fixed for opening the canal, according to 
 M. de Lesseps, is the year 1888. 
 
 In so interesting a work as this, which, when 
 completed, will influence the maritime commerce of 
 the whole world, and facilitate and cheapen the means 
 of communication between nations hitherto separated 
 by natural barriers, M. de Lesseps and his supporters 
 are entitled to the best wishes of every one for their 
 success. Twenty-four millions sterling looks a large 
 price to pay for the benefit of the canal, but no doubt 
 it can be shown that this expenditure is justified by 
 the large receipts which the canal may be expected 
 to earn in the shape of tolls from the ships which 
 may use this new route to the East. The questions 
 as to whether the canal can be made for the sum 
 estimated, or if, when made, it will but create com- 
 petition with the canal at Suez, are too broad and 
 deep to answer here. As to such possibilities, it is 
 hoped that the reader may be assisted in forming an 
 
THE PACIFIC. 31 
 
 opinion by the data here given. The one important 
 fact remains, that the work has at last been actually 
 begun in earnest, and the probability is that it will 
 be completed in due time, though it may possibly 
 cost more than the sum estimated at first. It is 
 curious to learn who the enterprising persons really 
 are who lend their money on this venture. At the 
 meeting of the shareholders of the company, when 
 M. Dingier explained the engineering features of the 
 scheme, M. de Lesseps declared that he looked for 
 his supporters among that class of men whom Lord 
 Palmerston has dubbed " les petits gens," and he 
 ended by saying, " Eh bien, ces petits gens ont fait les 
 plus grandes ceuvres du siecle." (Bravos ! Applau- 
 dissements repetes.) 
 
 The journey southwards from Panama is one of 
 the pleasantest sea trips that could be chosen in any 
 part of the globe. The Pacific keeps up the good 
 character given to it by the early Spanish navigators, 
 for its surface is seldom troubled by storm or tempest. 
 Notwithstanding, this sea is not a favourite voyage 
 among sailors, their dislike to it arising mainly from 
 the dense fogs (known by the name of guard] which 
 frequently prevail along the coast during the winter 
 months, and, secondly, to the peculiar sweeping 
 motion of the rollers which break on the shore, and 
 render landing often a task of danger and difficulty. 
 But in its normal condition, the Pacific is smooth 
 as a lake ; and the pleasant warmth-giving sunshine 
 
32 ALLIGA TOR-HUNTING. 
 
 glorifies the magnificent scenery of the chain of the 
 Andes. 
 
 Proceeding southwards, the first port touched by 
 the Pacific Company's steamers is Payta, which lies 
 to the extreme north of Peruvian territory ; but on 
 the return northwards, they run up the Guayaquil 
 river as far as the town of that name, which is the 
 seaport of Ecuador. The " experiences " of a trip up 
 the Guayaquil give a very fair idea of the life one 
 would expect to lead in Peru, of its many interests, 
 which can be made so real and absorbing, and also of, 
 the complete absence of those public entertainments, 
 games, etc., the frequenting of which has become 
 almost a necessity to the Londoner and Parisian. 
 
 Mr. Smith, British Consul at Guayaquil, proved to 
 be a great sportsman, his " happy hunting-ground " 
 being the mud-banks of the river, and his quarry the 
 alligators which frequent these places. So keen was 
 the consul on this peculiar kind of chasse that he 
 was able proudly to show his visitors many scores of 
 skeleton alligators, of all sizes and ages, which he had 
 killed during his residence. Some of these skeletons 
 measured nearly ten feet in length ; and the manner 
 of killing the creatures was as bold as it was sur- 
 prising. Mr. Smith explained that it was the habit 
 of these omnivorous beasts to bury themselves in the 
 soft mud as the tide receded, and to stay there in a 
 comatose state, warming themselves and resting, till 
 the rising waters brought back the fish and reptiles 
 
ALLIGA TOR-HUNTING. 33 
 
 on which they feed. Armed with a sharp-edged axe, 
 Mr. Smith would wade in top-boots across the mud, and 
 approaching the sleeping beast unawares, jump on his 
 shoulders and proceed to hack away at his neck till 
 the head was severed from the trunk. Quite vainly 
 would the awaking alligator strike out right and left 
 with his long fan-like tail, or gyrate round and round 
 in the futile hope of unseating his assailant, who, like 
 the Old Man of the Sea, was from his position placed 
 beyond reach of attack whether by tooth, claws, or tail. 
 
 Guayaquil possesses many good-sized houses, some 
 of which were originally built by the early Spanish 
 settlers, who loved to live within sound of their 
 church bells, preferring to trust the management of 
 their country estates to an overseer rather than live 
 en campagne all the year round themselves. This 
 custom of fixing his permanent residence in the nearest 
 provincial town is to this day nearly universal among 
 the proprietors on the West Coast. The advantages 
 obtained from the society of our fellow-creatures are 
 duly appreciated in regions thinly populated, and 
 where country sports are unknown. 
 
 The principal residences surround the public Plaza 
 or square, and are fronted with a covered arcade, like 
 the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, only on a smaller and less 
 magnificent scale. The walls are built of sun-dried 
 brick, plastered over with mud and whitewashed; being 
 of great thickness, an equable temperature is main- 
 tained within throughout the year. An air of stillness, 
 
 D 
 
34 THE PERUVIAN COAST. 
 
 which almost amounts to stagnation during the hottest 
 hours of the day, seems to pervade the whole town, 
 the inhabitants of which live an apparently inactive life, 
 and one suggestive of no wish for self-improvement. 
 
 Soon after leaving the mouth of the Guayaquil, the 
 appearance of the coast undergoes complete transfor- 
 mation. Instead of the exuberant foliage of Ecuador, 
 a waste of sand on shore and hill strikes the eye 
 everywhere. At last, Peru is sighted, that country of 
 strange contrasts, in some places most luxuriantly 
 fertile, in others barren and worthless, a country pos- 
 sessing natural resources unequalled by any other 
 country in the world within the same area. 
 
 Previous to the recent war, ending with the con- 
 clusion of peace with Chili, which has deprived Peru 
 of the province of Tarapaca, the Peruvian littoral 
 extended over 1 500 miles in length. The lofty chain of 
 the Cordillera runs for nearly the whole length parallel 
 with this coast line, leaving a strip of comparatively 
 level country, varying from fifty to one hundred miles 
 in width, between the foot of the mountains and the 
 sea. This strip is cut up and divided into valleys, of 
 which Payta is the most northerly, and stretches of 
 high barren ground by the spurs of the great moun- 
 tain, which shoot out laterally, like the ribs from the 
 human spine. These wide intervening valleys are 
 filled with rich soil, and are well suited for the cultiva- 
 tion of rice, sugar, maize, potatoes, lucerne, and a 
 score of other edibles for man and beast. Where the 
 
UNDERGROWTH. 35 
 
 land has remained fallow for a short time, it is found 
 clothed with thick brush, or as it is locally called, 
 monte, generally consisting of a number of various 
 kinds of trees, bushes, and creepers. Chief among the 
 forest is to be distinguished the algarova, one of the 
 most valuable trees in South America. The commonest 
 shrub is the chilko, which grows very rapidly, and often 
 attains a height of thirty feet or more, making it very 
 suitable for fencing purposes. The shoots are round 
 and slender, and grow round the parent stem in twisted 
 and contorted branches, which soon become covered 
 with small round green leaves. Among the creepers, the 
 espina, or thorn, is chiefly noticeable. It would appear 
 to be an aftergrowth of rice, for it is invariably found on 
 all grounds where rice has been grown the year before. 
 It derives its name from the number of exceedingly 
 sharp-pointed thorns which cluster upon its shoots and 
 tendrils ; and such is its vitality, that it frequently grows 
 quite independent of support to a height of thirty feet. 
 It is a fact, that along the whole of the Peruvian 
 littoral rain never falls ; one of the many reasons 
 assigned being the general barrenness of the coast, 
 the inference being that so dry an atmosphere con- 
 tains insufficient moisture to form many rainclouds 
 those that are formed, gathering at an unusual eleva- 
 tion, are attracted laterally to the thickly wooded 
 heights of the Andes, where they shed their burden. 
 Hence cultivation is exclusively dependent upon irri- 
 gation ; the importance therefore of each valley de- 
 
36 THE WATER SUPPLY 
 
 pends upon the size of its river, which again is relatively 
 proportioned to the height of the adjacent mountain 
 chain. A glance at the map will suffice to explain 
 the configuration of the Peruvian littoral and the phy- 
 sical conditions which influence its climate. It will 
 be seen that the coast does not follow a straight line ; 
 but from Payta it trends in a south-easterly direction 
 as far as Arica, at which point it turns due south, and 
 follows a line nearly parallel with 70 long. W. of 
 Greenwich. One of the results of this configuration 
 is that the northern portion, from Arica to Payta, is 
 much better watered than the southern, from Arica to 
 Iquique. The northern portion is partly confronted 
 with, and to a certain extent arrests and taps, the 
 south-west tradewinds, which come heavily charged 
 with rain from the Antarctic Ocean ; while the southern, 
 offering no opposing front, catches less of the moisture 
 borne to it by the clouds. 
 
 In the valleys of Payta, Piura, Lambayeque, Tru- 
 jillo, and others, which must be passed before the 
 capital Lima is reached, rice and sugar are most cul- 
 tivated. Rice, indeed, is a daily article of food alike 
 among rich and poor. At the table of the rich it is 
 served separately as a vegetable, or in the plat de 
 resistance a stewed duck smothered in rice, highly 
 seasoned with red Chili pepper. The humble peon,* 
 
 * Literally, " footman," a day labourer he who travels on 
 foot, as distinguished from cavallero, a gentleman he who 
 rides on horseback. 
 
RICE AS FOOD. 37 
 
 oi labourer, is content with a simple dinner of rice 
 boiled till it is soft, when it is well drained from the 
 water, a handful of small beans added, a little Chili 
 pepper, and often, but not always, a few pieces of 
 goats' flesh or mutton. Unlike the English labourer, 
 the Peruvian invariably prepares his own dinner, 
 which he requires no one to cook or to bring to him. 
 Before starting for work in the very early morning, he 
 buys the simple provisions already named, and carries 
 them with him in a small iron pot, which subsequently 
 serves as a kettle to cook his dinner in, all that he 
 needs to seek at the place of his daily labour being a 
 few sticks and some water. Sometimes a few camotes, 
 a delicious kind of sweet potato, are placed among 
 the burning wood ashes under the kettle ; and on high 
 days and holidays a gourd filled with chicha (beer 
 made from maize) completes the feast which the peon 
 considers fit to be placed before the king, much more 
 the president of the Peruvian Republic ! 
 
 General abstemiousness in matters of eating and 
 drinking is a remarkable characteristic of all classes 
 in Peru. Very few, even of the wealthy, indulge in 
 rich cookery ; they are content with the most simple 
 articles of diet, served in the plainest possible manner. 
 As a general rule no wine or spirits of any kind 
 are taken at meals, the beverage being plain water. 
 Sometimes there is chasse-caft, or a post-prandial 
 cup. Indeed, the European and North American is 
 freely accused of introducing the custom of alcohol 
 
38 CHICHA. 
 
 drinking among the people of Peru, and the sight of 
 numerous saloons or bars, " fixed up " on the Yankee 
 system, which had already (in 1872) been opened in 
 the capital, goes far to justify this assertion. 
 
 Notwithstanding this bad example, drinking among 
 the Peruvians is chiefly confined to dias de fiesta, 
 or the appointed days of religious festivals, and to the 
 occasions of family rejoicing, such as a marriage or 
 christening festivity. The fact that the cholo, or 
 native labourer, is fond of his chicha, does not prove 
 that he is a drunkard, although the same cannot be 
 said of the zambo or Peruvian mulatto, a curious 
 specimen of humanity, who frequently shows, beside 
 his marked African nature, a mixture of Indian and 
 Spanish blood in his veins. He is certainly addicted 
 to strong drinks. Chicha, the favourite beverage of 
 the natives, as mentioned before, is made from maize, 
 the liquor being only half fermented. It is of a 
 yellow colour, and has a " sharp " flavour, which does 
 not at first please most palates, but is generally 
 better liked upon further acquaintance. It contains a 
 very small percentage of alcohol, and a great deal of 
 farinaceous nourishment, and undoubtedly goes far to 
 account for the fat, strong appearance of those who 
 consume it habitually. The liquor is certainly well 
 suited to the climate, and if not indulged in to excess 
 must be considered a valuable article of nourishment 
 for those engaged in arduous labours under a tropical 
 sun which exhausts the strength and promotes thirst. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 The Plaza Private Houses A Mansion A Reception Peru- 
 vian Beauty Peruvian Gentlemen Convents Retreats 
 Theatres Bull-fights The Matador. 
 
 LIMA is the political as well as the commercial capital 
 of the Republic. It is there that the great mercantile 
 houses transact their business, and there that the rich 
 haciendados, leaving their estates, perhaps hundreds of 
 miles distant, to be managed by an overseer, love to 
 live and spend their means. Previous to the last war 
 with Chili, the conveniences and comforts to be had 
 in Lima were far superior to any found in the provin- 
 cial towns of Peru indeed, among the capitals of South 
 America this city ranked first. Since the war it has 
 somewhat suffered in reputation, and old habitues miss 
 the former neat appearance of its streets, and the 
 various signs of wealth which were then exhibited 
 everywhere the display of costly European wares in 
 the shop windows, and the lavish expenditure of the 
 richer inhabitants at their entertainments. With these 
 
40 LIMA. 
 
 exceptions, Lima and its suburbs remain unaltered, 
 the public buildings and monuments having all escaped 
 the wholesale destruction which is so often the fate of 
 European cities when captured in war. The public 
 buildings, streets, and squares, with their rows of 
 private dwellings and convents, probably bear much 
 the same appearance as they did at the commencement 
 of the present century, when the Peruvians threw off 
 the Spanish yoke. As to their architecture, it is partly 
 Moorish, but owes more to Spanish additions. Like 
 Guayaquil, the streets of Lima are laid out at right 
 angles to each other, the principal square, or Plaza 
 Mayor, where stand the cathedral and public offices, 
 being in the centre of the town. Of how many im- 
 portant events in Peruvian history, of how many san- 
 guinary scenes, has this Plaza been the scene ? Ho\v 
 often have the insurgent citizens and the soldiers of 
 the president of the day fought out their quarrels on 
 its till recently unpaved surface ? How many unpopu- 
 lar presidents have been sacrificed to public vengeance, 
 and hung from the top of one of the round towers 
 which stand on each side of the cathedral door, it 
 would take long to enumerate. 
 
 The larger and more important quarter is situated 
 on the left bank of the river Rimac, which divides the 
 town into two districts, the northern one consisting of 
 the suburb of San Lazaro. Most of the houses in 
 Lima are only one story high ; some of the smaller 
 ones consist only of the ground-floor. The larger 
 
BEAUTIFUL HOUSES. 41 
 
 class of houses resemble those of the richer inhabitants 
 of Guayaquil, which have already been partly described. 
 On either side of the entrance leading into the patio y 
 or inner courtyard, there are little rooms which are 
 sometimes used as shops, or, as is frequently the case 
 when protected by an iron railing, as sitting-rooms for 
 the ladies of the family. Here, as elsewhere, the fair 
 sex love to watch the passers-by, and, no doubt, com- 
 ment freely on their personal appearance. Directly 
 facing the main entrance are the principal rooms of 
 the dwelling-house, the smaller and less important 
 ones being built on the other two sides of the patio. 
 From the large size of the rooms, the luxury of the 
 decorations, and the richness of the furniture, which is 
 often imported at great expense from London or Paris, 
 many of the private dwellings might be called palaces. 
 In particular, the large house belonging to Senor 
 
 L , which stands in a street running off the 
 
 Plaza de la Constitucion, from its size and the good 
 taste shown in the choice of its contents, rivals in 
 splendour many a mansion in Belgrave Square or in 
 the Avenue des Champs Elysees. In contains, on the 
 first floor, three spacious drawing-rooms en suite ; the 
 floors and ceilings are all of carved oak, brought at 
 immense expense from Europe, and the walls and 
 doors are artistically decorated in distinctive styles 
 and various colours, the first room being on the " Old 
 English " pattern, ceiling and walls panelled with 
 richly carved oak, and partly lined with dark red 
 
42 A PERUVIAN DINNER-PARTY. 
 
 velvet tapestry, the furniture made of the same mate- 
 rials. The furniture and decorations of the second 
 room are blue satin, walls painted blue, and the carv- 
 ings Grecian in style. The colours chosen for the 
 third and last room are amber and gold. On entering 
 from the street, we notice that the patio is inlaid with 
 Roman tiles. There is a fountain in the centre, of richly 
 carved white marble, its spacious bowl filled at the 
 time of the writer's visit by a mass of tropical plants 
 and flowers. The staircase leading from the patio to 
 the reception-rooms is all of white marble also, and 
 forms a fitting approach to the many costly objects to 
 be seen in this truly palatial abode. 
 
 An invitation from Sefior L gave the writer an 
 
 opportunity of " assisting " at a Peruvian dinner-party. 
 Dinner was served in a side room, entered through 
 the " red " drawing-room. With respect to the meal 
 itself, there was nothing special to note ; the plats 
 were prepared by a French cook, who, it was said, 
 had resided long enough in Lima to have added to 
 his Parisian art some knowledge of Peruvian cookery. 
 The wines and liqueurs were rare and choice, and of 
 the most celebrated European vintages. After dinner, 
 the host, who was a widower, held a reception in the 
 three drawing-rooms, all of which were brilliantly 
 lighted up with wax candles. Many accustomed to 
 the good taste in dress and manners which distin- 
 guish London society, might have been surprised to 
 note the tone of good breeding pervading the Peruvian 
 
A PERUVIAN BELLE. 43 
 
 assembly. Many of the ladies' dresses had been 
 ordered from Paris, and were quite in the fashion of 
 the old world, or, rather, the fashion which reigned 
 when these things were sent out. But if the ladies' 
 dresses passed muster, what shall we say of the 
 wearers ? The Peruvian belle, when she is really 
 beautiful, may well rank on an equality with the 
 fairest specimens of female loveliness which the world 
 produces. Her complexion can scarcely be called 
 dark, although her eyes and hair are so ; for her skin 
 is often very fair and transparent. She seldom has 
 much colour. Her features are small and delicately 
 formed, the nose straight and particularly well-shaped, 
 and the ear small and delicately curved, lying quite 
 flat to the head a rare beauty. The mouth is small, 
 and the lines of the lips straight, and, as with all 
 great beauties, the lips themselves would be called 
 too full by an artistic eye. The teeth are straight 
 and regular, and as white as newly fallen snow. 
 In manner and conversation she is like the Spanish 
 donas, quiet and reserved, but soon becoming viva- 
 cious and mirthful, when excited by humour or the 
 sense of the ridiculous. In stature she is of medium 
 height ; the figure is light and gracefully moulded, but 
 given to develop rapidly after the age of sixteen, 
 when the more mature charms of womanhood are 
 quickly acquired. Her movements are full of grace, 
 and have ere now been the theme of travellers' special 
 admiration. Unaccustomed to much exercise on foot, 
 
44 PERUVIAN GENTLEMEN. 
 
 the paces of the Limena are unusually short, even for 
 a woman, the feet moving so as to cause but a slight 
 vertical motion to the figure. The high-born senoras, 
 with head erect, appear rather to glide than walk, 
 such is the even manner of their progress. 
 
 The polite manner, powers of perception, and ready 
 repartee of the Peruvian gentleman cannot fail to be 
 noticed by a stranger. His intellect, especially among 
 the well-born and well-educated, belongs to no mean 
 order, misapplied as it may have been by many of 
 their statesmen in decisions which involved the pro- 
 sperity of their country. It is impossible to converse 
 for five minutes with a well-educated Peruvian of the 
 upper class without being surprised at the apparent 
 ease with which he masters questions in which he 
 might reasonably be supposed to take but little 
 interest, such as the ever-shifting panorama of Euro- 
 pean politics. The late Don Manuel Pardo, at one 
 time president of the Republic, was a noticeable 
 example of this remarkable power of adaptation of 
 mind. Immediately applying his quick and ready 
 reasoning to facts and conditions presented to him 
 for the first time, by analogy he generally arrived at 
 correct conclusions. 
 
 The conversation on the present occasion was 
 chiefly confined to subjects of local interest, the 
 politics and social gossip of the hour, and the reci- 
 procal courtesies usually exchanged at any large 
 gathering of people in any part of the globe. 
 
CHURCHES AND CONVENTS. 45 
 
 Of the numerous churches and convents founded 
 in Lima whilst Peru was yet a Spanish colony, 
 two or three are deserving of special notice. The 
 largest of the monastic establishments is the convent 
 of San Francisco, situated in the vicinity of the 
 Plaza Mayor. Mass is read daily every half-hour in 
 this convent, from five in the morning till noon. A 
 curious superstitious tradition attaches to the small 
 chapel within the convent, which is called the Capilla 
 de los Milagros, or the " Chapel of Miracles." It is 
 recorded that, during the great earthquake of 1630, 
 the image of the Madonna, which is placed above the 
 entrance door, turned towards the grand altar, and, 
 with outstretched arms, invoked the divine grace in 
 favour of the city. It is believed that by this inter- 
 vention the capital was saved from total destruction. 
 The monks' cells, though simple, are quite comfortable 
 to live in ; and the spacious and well-arranged gardens 
 within the walls seemed to be well attended to. 
 
 The convent of Los Descalzos, situated on the other 
 side of the river in the suburb of San Lazaro, also 
 belongs to the Franciscan monks. This convent is 
 approached by a broad avenue planted with six rows 
 of trees, and it stands at the foot of a sterile hill. 
 The situation is unhealthy, and, in consequence, the 
 monks suffer a good deal from intermittent fever. 
 
 Among the other convents may be mentioned the 
 Recolita de San Diego, and that of Santo Domingo, 
 which is very richly endowed, San Pedro, Nuestra 
 
46 BE A TERIOS. 
 
 Senora de la Merced, and San Augustin. Besides 
 these monastic establishments, there are smaller con- 
 vents for friars, and sixteen nunneries. Of the 
 latter, the Monasterio de la Conception is the largest, 
 and it is said to be very rich. Santa Clara, the 
 Encarnacion, the Capuchinas de Jesus Maria, the 
 Nazarenes, and Trinitanas descalzas are some of 
 the other nunneries, which go far to prove to what 
 a great extent the religious feelings which prevail 
 among all Peruvian women, indulged in to excess, 
 tempt them to take the veil. Besides these regular 
 nunneries, there are a few other religious establish- 
 ments called beaterios, or the bigots, which may be 
 entered and quitted at pleasure by extremely religious 
 women, who wish to lead a cloistered life without 
 taking the veil. There is also an institution, the 
 Refugio de San Jose, which is a place for the recep- 
 tion of married women who wish to withdraw from 
 the ill-treatment of bad husbands. This institution 
 also admits wives whose husbands have arbitrarily 
 obtained permission of the archbishop to send them 
 to the Refugio, with the hope that a little temporary 
 seclusion and quiet meditation may improve their 
 characters. 
 
 The public places of entertainment in Lima would 
 be considered very few in comparison with those in 
 a European city. As in all Roman Catholic coun- 
 tries, the festivals of the Church are marked days in 
 the calendar, and the proceedings of each day in- 
 
THE THEATRE. 47 
 
 elude, besides the religious observances, a great deal 
 of holiday-making. Perhaps the most popular way 
 of spending the afternoon is to drive out to one of the 
 numerous " tea-gardens," which are generally to be 
 found in some picturesque spot within easy distance of 
 the town, and to pass away the time with music and 
 dancing, while enjoying the fresh air and fine scenery. 
 
 The principal place of public amusement (next 
 to the arena for bull-fights) is the theatre, a build- 
 ing erected as long ago as the year 1662. The 
 internal arrangements are far from commodious, and 
 contain none of the comforts and conveniences which 
 modern theatrical opinion considers necessary for 
 the comfort of the playgoers. As to the performances, 
 they are for the most part wretched, both as regards 
 the merit of the pieces and the actors' talent. Com- 
 monplace intrigues form the subject of the pieces, 
 and the dialogue consists of vulgar jokes. Occasion- 
 ally an opera company from Europe, on their South 
 American tour, will visit Lima and gratify its inhabi- 
 tants with their performances ; but the occasions of 
 such visits being rare and the stay brief, the opera can 
 hardly be counted among the amusements of Lima. 
 
 But the announcement of a bull-fight fills all 
 classes of the inhabitants with unconstrained joy. 
 The female population takes even more interest 
 therein than the male. The ladies prepare their finest 
 dresses for the occasion ; and the boxes and seats at 
 the corrida are often bespoken weeks before the event 
 
48 BULL-FIGHTS. 
 
 is to take place. While bull-fights have been excluded 
 from the category of public amusements in all the 
 other South American states, Peru adheres with 
 tenacity to the customs of the mother country, and 
 even endeavours to surpass her in what is called the 
 " magnificence " of the performance indeed, the cruel- 
 ties which are practised at the bull-fights of Madrid 
 are excelled at Lima. The writer saw his first (and 
 only) bull-fight, at Lima, in company with a fellow- 
 countryman, whose feelings were so overcome by the 
 sight of bloodshed and cruelties that he left before 
 the performance was half over. On the other hand, 
 it is asserted that these exhibitions are far nobler and 
 more humanitarian than any which may be seen to- 
 day at Madrid, or in any other part of Spain. At 
 Madrid, says the Peruvian sportsman, the victims are 
 old and decrepit cab-horses, which have been bought 
 at a low price on purpose to be killed by the bull, 
 with the intention of providing sanguinary scenes 
 ad lib. for the benefit of the spectators. At the Lima 
 bull-fights, on the contrary, it is urged that all the 
 horses permitted to enter the arena must be of pure 
 Arab breed, and, owing to their sagacity and the 
 agility of their riders, they seldom fail to escape the 
 bulls' horns. If there must be a victim, is it not just 
 that it should be one of the men who provide the 
 sport (for which service they are well paid), and volun- 
 tarily risk their lives, instead of the poor horses, which 
 have no voice in the matter ? 
 
THE FIRST ONSLAUGHT. 49 
 
 On this occasion, as usual, the torrero (bull-slayer) 
 and his picadores (literally, "prickers") were all 
 Spaniards by birth, and a more blood-thirsty, villanous 
 crew the writer has seldom seen assembled. Each man 
 was bedecked in the faded velvet jacket, knee-breeches, 
 and white socks, which form part of the attire of the 
 professional bull-fighter. The bulls, which it must in 
 justice be admitted, were fine well-fed wild-looking 
 creatures, were admitted singly into the arena at a 
 signal given by blowing a trumpet ; and as the animal 
 was led forward, the sport began. A mounted pica- 
 dore approaching, endeavoured to fix in the neck of the 
 beast a small steel dart, one end of which was sharply 
 pointed and washed with brimstone, a strip of coloured 
 ribbon being attached to the other. The usual pro- 
 ceedings are as follows. If the bull turns and charges, 
 the rider causes his horse to whirl round and ap- 
 proach the quarry on his other side, when frequently 
 the dart becomes fixed in the spot aimed at. The 
 sharp pain resulting from the prick and the brim- 
 stone combined infuriates the animal, and he rushes 
 blindly forward straight ahead, as if " making for " the 
 people sitting on the lower tiers of seats which occa- 
 sionally encircle the amphitheatre. But before many 
 paces are made, a red flag is waved before his eyes by 
 one of the foot picadores^ which causes him to turn 
 and face his new assailant. Pierced with another small 
 dart, as sharp and as burning as the first, the bull 
 roars and becomes mad with rage, and, with eyes 
 
 E 
 
50 EXCITEMENT. 
 
 flashing fire, he tears round the arena, pawing the 
 sandy floor with his feet and turning his head right 
 and left at each object presented to him. The game 
 grows fast and furious ; the music plays some stirring 
 galop ; the picadores cross and recross the arena, as 
 if possessing charmed lives, planting their darts in 
 all parts of the infuriated animal ; the spectators clap 
 their hands in excitement, some of the ladies even 
 tearing off their black mantillas to wave them in the 
 air, until upon a given signal the music ceases, the 
 voices of the audience sink into silence, &i& picadores 
 retire behind wooden screens placed for their protec- 
 tion at the ends of the arena, and the bull, decked in 
 gay ribbons of many colours, is left alone on the 
 battle-field, triumphant. But his triumph is imaginary, 
 for the cessation of the attack signifies nothing more 
 than a reprieve of his sentence. The clear notes of 
 the trumpet sound again, heralding in the matador, 
 who is the hero of the day. His dress is somewhat 
 richer in quality than that of his companions. He is 
 armed with a short dagger-shaped sword, which is 
 generally carried in his right hand, hidden under a 
 small shawl, brilliant red in colour, thrown over his 
 left arm. A cheer bursts from the audience, and the 
 matador advances boldly to face the bull. The agility 
 and quickness shown by the matador on this occasion 
 in evading the charges of the bull, whose strength was 
 only partly spent by previous exertion, were marvel- 
 lous to behold. The importance of the red shawl was 
 
THE MATADOR. 51 
 
 soon shown in the way in which it was extended at 
 arm's length to attract the bull's attention. But in 
 one of his final charges, the noble beast received his 
 death-stroke. At the first good opportunity the 
 sharp-pointed sword was thrust with unerring aim 
 through the nape of his neck, reaching the very centre 
 of his heart, and with a gasp, amid the cheers of the 
 audience, the band meanwhile playing the National 
 Anthem, the creature fell on his knees and, rolling 
 over, expired. 
 
 There can be no doubt that bull-fights are bar- 
 barous and disgusting diversions. But "prize-fight- 
 ing" at home, where the combatants are incited to mark 
 each other's faces out of recognition for love of gold, 
 and at the instigation of so-called "sportsmen," may, 
 as far as regards cruelty, be ranked on a level with 
 bull-fighting. The comparison does not, however, 
 lessen the barbarity, or excuse the continuance of the 
 latter diversion in the minds of all right-thinking 
 people. Both are relics of the past, and the legacies 
 of ancestors who looked complacently upon the shed- 
 ding of human blood for the gratification of their 
 passions, or of revenge, or simply to provide them with 
 the means of excitement, in days when healthy pastimes 
 and recreations were but little known. It must be 
 allowed on behalf of the Peruvians that they are 
 accustomed to these diversions from early childhood, 
 and they regard them with perfect indifference, cus- 
 tom, no doubt, blinding them to the cruelties they 
 witness in the bull-ring. 
 
52 THE SPANISH YOKE. 
 
 "If a Pizarro of any other European nationality 
 than the Spanish had overrun and conquered our 
 country," said the mayor of a provincial town one 
 day, " we South Americans would at this time have 
 been rivalling in prosperity our contemporaries, the 
 citizens of the United States." This speech is typical 
 of that old feeling of hatred felt for the Spanish yoke 
 by the Creole. The modern Peruvian, even if he has 
 more Spanish than Indian blood in his veins, when in a 
 facetious mood, is wont to say that the Spaniard took 
 away everything from his ancestors that they held 
 dear, and gave them nothing worth having in exchange ; 
 that he has inherited from the Spaniard all the vices 
 of the old world and of an old form of civilization, 
 without retaining the virtues of the simple aborigines 
 of the soil. The Spaniard gave him a language and 
 a religion, it is true ; but the Inca possessed both, 
 and he was no idolater, since he worshipped the same 
 Supreme Being, only in another way, through the 
 medium of the Sun, instead of the intercession of the 
 Virgin and of Christ. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CHICLAYO AND THE CHICLAYANOS. 
 
 The Plaza at Night The Cathedral Mixed Races Religious 
 Ceremonies Miraculous Images Pizarro Inca Govern- 
 ment Inca Land Laws Natural Religion Spanish 
 Christianity Spaniards and Peruvians Social Customs 
 Musical Talent Mixed Beverages Domestic Qualities 
 Esprit de Corps Petty Quarrels Chiclayo Early 
 Morning Objects of Interest "Tell me Something New." 
 
 IT is evening on the 8th of April, 1873. The Plaza, 
 or principal square of Chiclayo, is filled with a mixed 
 multitude, waiting for the religious procession an- 
 nounced as shortly to take place, while at the same 
 time they enjoy the delightful coolness of a tropical 
 evening. Among the crowd we perceive the Arbulus, 
 Arizolas, Aguirries, and many others of the gente 
 descente, or notables of the place. Let us stroll round 
 the Plaza, before joining these new but already 
 sympathetic acquaintances grouped along the trottoir. 
 Huge piles of algarova wood (carob-tree) are 
 burning on the open space in front of the unfinished 
 cathedral, whose massive brick-built walls and towers 
 
54 THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 illumined by the flames are relieved against the back- 
 ground of the dark blue sky beyond. In shape a 
 cross, the cathedral is designed to hold some two 
 thousand worshippers, and the immensely thick outer 
 walls have already reached no mean height. In 
 imitation of the Italian style, a square tower, whose 
 summit is reached by an inside staircase, flanks either 
 side of the wide western portal. 
 
 Entering the building, the visitor may question 
 the stability of the brick arches which span the centre 
 aisle and are destined to support the roof, in apparent 
 defiance of the volcanic tremblings which are of such 
 frequent occurrence on the coast of Peru. These 
 arches spring from Ionic columns, built up with large 
 bricks, which divide the centre from the side aisles, 
 wherein niches for the side chapels are already 
 hollowed out. The walls of chancel and transept are 
 finished and ready to receive the dome which is to 
 crown the magnificent gift made by President Balta 
 to his compatriots of Chiclayo, in gratitude for the 
 support received when he successfully contested the 
 Presidency of the Republic. It would scarcely be 
 fair to criticise the details of this half-finished build- 
 ing. In its present condition it forms a strange con- 
 trast to the humble dwellings surrounding it ; and 
 now that its founder is dead (President Balta was 
 murdered in prison by Gutierrez, who took his place), 
 it seems likely that a long time will pass before it will 
 answer any further purpose than that of a landmark to 
 
MIXED RACES. 55 
 
 travellers, who exclaim " Dios mio ! " at its size, but 
 as good Catholics wish it finished and well filled with 
 worshippers. 
 
 Turning towards the Plaza, we behold a crowd 
 composed of very varied types of humanity. Twenty- 
 two different races have been counted as composing 
 the modern Peruvian people, and by the light of fresh 
 fagots which are now heaped on the bonfires, we can 
 discern every shade of brown and black skins varying 
 from the intense black of the Congo negro, whose big 
 heavy frame contrasts with the slight tall figure of 
 the white Creole, as with the intermediate link, the 
 mulatto. All shades of brown and brownish-yellow 
 are there, ending in the white complexion of European 
 settlers. Nor are the differences confined to appear- 
 ance ; they extend to religion and language. Were 
 it really a picture, exception might be taken to the 
 want of unity and common interest, for the gestures 
 and indications of character among these groups are 
 as distinct as their faces ; but taken in detail they 
 form a curious study of humanity. The black races 
 have not yet reached southern Peru, with its mining 
 works and barren sands, but in the rich easy-going 
 provinces of the north, they have prospered. Their 
 African progenitors were brought to cultivate the 
 extensive and fertile sugar and rice plantations. The 
 more gentle and manageable cholo stands along- 
 side his darker brother, speaking Spanish it is true 
 with a better accent, but with scarcely more accuracy. 
 
56 THE PROCESSION. 
 
 Whatever their colour, all wear the poncho, or bright- 
 coloured shawl, white cotton trousers, and white straw 
 hat which constitute the picturesque male attire of 
 the country. The women who keep the booths where 
 chicha (beer made from maize, partly fermented, but 
 innocent of hops), lemonade, and sweet cakes are to 
 be bought, are dressed modestly in black serge, their 
 dark hair plaited and thrown back over the shoulder 
 in two or more long plaits. 
 
 Now a murmur breaks from the crowd, and all 
 eyes turn in the direction of the church on the north 
 side of the square, whence slowly issues the procession 
 of white-robed priests, preceding the " chapel " borne 
 on the shoulders of twelve zambos and followed by 
 the town musicians playing solemn music. Images 
 of our Saviour and of six of the apostles are seen 
 within the " chapel," which is decorated with flowers 
 and lighted by numerous wax candles. 
 
 On approaching the cathedral the music ceases, 
 the musicians lower their brass instruments, and the 
 priest heading the procession chants the Te Deum, 
 joined by the musicians' voices and those of a crowd of 
 both sexes following and carrying lamps and torches. 
 As the procession nears the centre of the square, 
 laughter and talking ceases among the gay throng, 
 and no sound breaks the stillness of night but the 
 solemn chant. The cholo reverently bares his head, 
 and falling on his knees, remains in that attitude of 
 humility with arms crossed on his breast, till the 
 
PRIESTCRAFT. 57 
 
 procession has passed. The profound respect, we may 
 say awe, with which these religious ceremonies are 
 regarded by the native seems to corroborate the idea 
 that till lately this simple race were much imposed 
 on by priestly craft; and many are the stories of 
 imposture practised, by means of which the cholo 
 was terrified into obedience, and his contributions 
 towards the camarico (recess behind the altar where 
 the images are dressed) extorted. Some of these 
 contrivances may remind the historical reader of the 
 trickeries performed in pagan times and by the 
 Egyptian priests. In South America their success 
 was aided by the people's credulity as a race, 
 exceeding, it is said, even that of the worshippers of 
 Busterick the German divinity, whose temple stands 
 on the Weser. This image was cast in metal, and 
 the head served as a boiler for the generation of 
 steam, which ;at the fitting moment was discharged 
 in the worshippers' faces, simply by withdrawing plugs 
 from the eye holes by means of secret wires. The 
 noise accompanying this discharge, and the volumes 
 of steam which speedily filled the temple, added to 
 the effect, and may well have seemed miraculous in 
 an age when the knowledge of steam power was 
 almost exclusively confined to the priesthood. Here 
 in Chiclayo it is said that not many years since a 
 telling effect was produced in the Easter processions, 
 by the figure of our Saviour being made to stumble 
 at intervals under the weight of the cross, symbolizing 
 
58 PIZARRO AND THE INCAS. 
 
 His progress to Golgotha. The figure regained its 
 position by means of concealed wires worked by the 
 chapel-bearers. The ignorant cholo mind being in- 
 capable of understanding the simple mechanical con- 
 trivance by which this was effected, attributed the 
 movement to supernatural agency. This credulity is 
 but the natural outcome of the child-like faith fostered 
 for centuries under the fatherly rule of the Inca, just 
 as we often see ancient creeds and customs long since 
 obsolete reappearing in modern times under different 
 conditions, the names only being changed while the 
 principles are identical. 
 
 It suited the ambitious schemes of the adventurer 
 Pizarro and his band of needy followers to paint the 
 Inca as an infidel, steeped in the blackest vices of 
 paganism. The golden visage, set in a frame of 
 shooting sun-rays of the same metal, facing eastwards 
 in the Temple of the Sun at Cuzco, was taken as 
 evidence of his idolatry, and Cuzco was called the 
 Peruvian Mecca, the Inca taking the place of the 
 Prophet. The human sacrifices on the death of the 
 king were exaggerated it was said that hundreds of 
 his wives and concubines were buried alive on such 
 occasions. Tales of the miseries endured by the 
 natives through the forced labour exacted by the State 
 were wafted across the seas to Vice-regent Philip's 
 ears, describing the condition of the Peruvians as 
 Averse and more pitiable than that of the Egyptians 
 under the remorseless Pharaohs. 
 
VE RITAS PR^VALEBIT. 59 
 
 Pizarro demanded fighting men in the name of 
 humanity and to free an enslaved race, and when this 
 plea failed, he touched the keynote of Philip's mind 
 by bribing him with some of the golden images and 
 vessels torn from the walls of the Temple of the 
 Sun. 
 
 It was not till long after the spoliation had been 
 made, and civil war, combined with treachery and an 
 irresistible will, had wrested his empire from the Inca, 
 that disinterested inquiries elicited the truth and 
 brought to light a system of government which 
 Prescott has described as "the mildest but most 
 searching of despotisms." Then for the first time 
 the unique and provident system by which land was 
 cultivated under the Incas, one-third of its produce 
 being allotted to the people, another third towards 
 supporting the Church, and the remainder to the 
 State, was submitted to impartial criticism. 
 
 Then arose the question how were those im- 
 mense piles of quarried stone, still to be seen in the 
 temple walls at Cuzco and only comparable in 
 size to the Pyramids of Egypt, raised, unless by 
 organized slavery on a very large scale ? The 
 answer is obvious. The despotism of the Incas was 
 acknowledged, but it is maintained that its advan- 
 tages counterbalanced its interference with individual 
 liberty ; that the equal distribution of the land's 
 produce between Church, State, and people gave to 
 each their due and provided for the support of the 
 
60 LAWS OF LAND CULTIVATION. 
 
 population, including the aged and those unable to 
 work for their living ; and that it also maintained 
 right rule and supremacy in matters of civil and 
 religious government throughout the Inca's domains. 
 Want and misery were unknown, for the labour of the 
 able-bodied provided sufficient for the support of 
 the sick and aged. No one could become so im- 
 poverished as to be in danger of starvation. On the 
 other hand, no one could become wealthier than his 
 neighbour, as the land was held by yearly tenure 
 from the State, each family being allotted a share 
 calculated, in proportion to their numbers, to yield 
 sufficient for their support. In fact this system was 
 the ideal of communism ; but one only possible under 
 an enlightened " Paternal Despotism." The hours of 
 the working day were likewise divided into three, one 
 portion being spent on the " Home Farm," the other 
 two on Church lands and the Inca's lands respec- 
 tively, the produce of these last being employed 
 partly in support of Church and State, the remainder 
 forming a reserve fund on which to draw for the 
 support of the sick and aged. When a crown tenant 
 fell ill, the Inca sent labourers to cultivate his fields, 
 and provided food for his family till he was able to 
 resume his labour. The work of supervision, and 
 care that the law was duly observed, fell chiefly on 
 the clergy, who, according to the most reliable 
 Spanish historians,* exercised complete control over 
 
 * Solozano, the Abate de Pradt, Lafuente, Oliver, and others. 
 
ORGANIZA TION. 6 1 
 
 the people, being authorized emissaries of the " Child 
 of the Sun," the name by which the Inca was best 
 known. Religion was the chief, if not the only 
 means, by which the State maintained control over 
 its vassals. Great national movements, as well as the 
 petty details of daily life, were alike regulated by 
 the priesthood. If an outlying infidel tribe along 
 the tributaries of the Amazon were proceeded against 
 and conquered, the warriors were urged on by religious 
 fanaticism, much in the same spirit that " Holy 
 Russia" turns to account the blind faith of her 
 subjects in their Czar, as an incentive against the 
 followers of the Crescent. So did our own Crusaders 
 a few centuries ago. In Peru the " Sun " was the 
 emblem, for the " Cross " had not arisen ; but the 
 spirit was the same. 
 
 This abject submission to laws clothed in religious 
 guise, is of course distinct from the faith founded on 
 conviction, but it is an admirable political engine. It 
 is an outcome of man's natural need of a Deity to 
 reverence and obey, whatever form his differing 
 idiosyncracy or surroundings may cause it to take. 
 The Peruvians believed in an invisible God dwelling 
 in the Sun ; the Inca was His child, sent to be His 
 representative, prophet, and oracle on earth. Pizarro 
 slew this Oracle, denouncing him as an impostor 
 incapable of summoning to his aid the supernatural 
 power of which he had boasted. At sight of the 
 lifeless body of Atahualpa the Indian lost heart ; his 
 
62 SPANISH TACTICS. 
 
 hereditary leader and spiritual guide was gone ; he 
 threw up the contest, and abandoned the Temple of 
 the Sun. Christianity was then carried by the swords 
 of the conquerors into this newly acquired portion of 
 the New World. Religion and conquest joined their 
 forces to subjugate the Peruvians to Spanish control. 
 The crowd of missionaries and monks of all denomi- 
 nations, following in the wake of Pizarro, made use of 
 the most ingenious stratagems to enlighten the deep 
 ignorance in which they considered the nations to be 
 be steeped. But if history is to be believed, these 
 adventurous priests were not always impelled onward 
 by the disinterested desire of improving the moral 
 condition of the natives, since their well-known greed 
 for gold brought upon them the satire of the great 
 Spanish poet, who wrote 
 
 " Su color de religion, 
 Van a buscar plata y oro 
 Del encuvierto tesoro." 
 
 LOPE DE VEGA. 
 
 Religious education given to the children was 
 found to be the surest means of converting the 
 parents, aided by solemn ceremonies illustrated by 
 arrangements and contrivances within and without 
 the church walls, which appealed to their most 
 vulnerable point, the imagination. 
 
 It is said by Solozano, in his " Politica Indiana," 
 that laws were passed prescribing the occasions and 
 the manner in which these " tricks " should be carried 
 
THE INQUISITION. 63 
 
 out. Baron de Humboldt * asserts that the Spanish 
 missionaries, in order to convert the natives, showed 
 them paintings on canvas drawn on a large scale and 
 representing the disobedient condemned to the flames 
 of hell. The horrible sufferings were so skilfully 
 portrayed as to frighten the natives into begging the 
 priests to cease even from describing the agonies 
 which might happen to any of them after death. 
 Thus the " religious " education consisted of certain 
 illustrated dogmas, coupled with a few precepts calcu- 
 lated to engender fanaticism among a people incapable 
 of reasoning out the moral and elevating truths of 
 Christianity. The Inquisition preached the inhuman 
 doctrine that it was right to slay the heretic, and right 
 for the proselyte son to raise his arm against his 
 infidel father. When fair means failed, foul were tried, 
 and the work of conversion advanced by rapid strides. 
 The pages of history relating the conquest of Peru 
 and the conversion of the aborigines to Christianity, 
 is stained with records of the worst extravagances 
 conceived by humanity. The dissensions among the 
 conquerors, their treachery towards their leaders, the 
 gross manner in which the latter frequently attempted 
 to throw off their allegiance to Spain, their ill-treat- 
 ment of the natives, and the impostures and licentious- 
 ness practised among the missionary priests, detract 
 largely from the glory which so great a success would 
 otherwise merit. In proof of the influence of individual 
 * " Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain." 
 
64 SOCIABILITY. 
 
 character on such lawless society as that existing in 
 Peru when Gonzalo Pizarro (brother of the conqueror) 
 traitorously assumed the independent sovereignty of 
 the empire, the success of Pedro de la Gasca, a member 
 of the Inquisition, may be mentioned. Leaving Spain 
 by order of the Vice-regent Philip, but without either 
 money or troops, he arrived at Panama, and by sheer 
 force of persuasion gained over a number of Pizarro's 
 followers, by whose aid he suppressed the rebellion in 
 Peru, captured and caused to be executed the rebel 
 leader, and, as President of the Audiencia or Council 
 of Lima, brought the government into shape and 
 form. This may be read in detail in Busk's History 
 of Spain. 
 
 But it is with the inner life of the Peruvian people 
 that this book has most to do, as evidenced in their 
 social customs. They are a hospitable and sociable 
 people. For instance 
 
 "You will join our tertulia" exclaims a friendly 
 voice, as we prepare to leave the Plaza. " Willingly," 
 is the reply, for the tertulia implies a pleasant evening 
 gathering, where both sexes join in sociability. The 
 Peruvian's love of home is proverbial, and the early 
 age at which the young Republican seeks to form a 
 home of his own by marriage, is a remarkable trait of 
 national character. 
 
 The Peruvian Benedict is certainly a more respec- 
 table personage than the capricious being who figures 
 as the " young man " of South American society. 
 
THE TERTULIA. 65 
 
 Occasionally, though, improvident marriages occur ; a 
 consequence of the nightly serenades. Where young 
 ladies reside, the presence of one or more impassioned 
 Romeos under the reja, or iron grating of the window, 
 may generally be predicted, and these occasionally 
 lead to rencontres as disastrous as the one between 
 Don Baltazar and Don Rafael in Toledo, so graphi- 
 cally described in the humorous pages of Gil Bias. 
 
 It is at the tertulia that Peruvian women chiefly 
 show their claims to the attention and praise so com- 
 monly awarded them. Throwing aside the reserve, 
 partly assumed and partly real, which characterises 
 their bearing out of doors, both on the Plaza and at 
 Mass, their natural amiability leads them to exert 
 themselves in entertaining their guests, becoming 
 animated in conversation, showing both in questions 
 and repartee great quickness of perception. Often 
 indeed they increase the number of their personal 
 attractions by the fascinating accomplishment of 
 singing to a guitar accompaniment, reminding one 
 of Moore's words 
 
 " She who but feathers the dart when she speaks, 
 At once sends it home to the heart when she sings." 
 
 The refreshments handed round on these occasions 
 are chiefly of the liquid order, and to any one recol- 
 lecting the sage advice of a celebrated physician, 
 " Drink what you like, but never mix your liquor," 
 it seemed strange to be offered first English stout 
 in tiny glasses, followed by cura^oa, and afterwards 
 
 F 
 
66 STRANGE BEVERAGES. 
 
 champagne, port, and sherry. In Russia the same 
 variety is observed, but there less is left to the guests' 
 choice, all these incongruous liquids being mixed 
 together in a huge bowl and called punch. 
 
 The senoritas do not disdain to join, and few 
 refuse their polite " Una copita con V. Senor " (Your 
 health, sir). Spirits are also taken, and Italia, a 
 white spirit, distilled from a musk grape, originally 
 imported from Italy but now largely cultivated for 
 this purpose, is a delicately flavoured liqueur. Mr. 
 Henry Swayne, one of the most successful settlers 
 in Peru, informed the writer that he had lately com- 
 menced its cultivation on his estates at Cafiete and 
 San Jacente, with the view of supplying the English 
 market. Italia may now be found in many of the 
 London clubs. 
 
 Intemperance, however, is here chiefly confined to 
 the mulattoes and other races sharing African blood ; 
 the white Creole of Spanish descent is sparing in his 
 use of intoxicating beverages, frequently drinking 
 only water himself, though he sets wine before his 
 guests. The extent of his indulgence consists in a 
 petit verre of Italia as chasse-cafe. Yet over most 
 of South America the cultivation of the vine is 
 neglected, a regrettable fact, as that section of the 
 population addicted to intemperance are thereby 
 driven to the more hurtful use of spirits. 
 
 It is a truism that to know a man thoroughly 
 you must see him at home. The Peruvians would 
 
DOMESTICITY. 67 
 
 well stand this test. Their love of home and do- 
 mestic affections are proverbial, and their gregarious 
 nature leads them to prefer the life of cities to that 
 of making their homes on their estates. Thus in 
 Chiclayo most of the proprietors have their residence 
 en ville, their estates lying perhaps ten or twenty 
 miles distant. They like to live within sound of the 
 church bells, and they take a pride in the beauty 
 of their native town, akin to that of the Roman 
 patricians when they extolled their " ancestral Tiber." 
 This sometimes produces a jealousy between the 
 towns, for which a stranger is at a loss to account. 
 " Soy Chiclayano, y no hombre para eseuchar tales 
 cosas" (I am of Chiclayo, and not a man to listen to 
 such tales) is the reply to a patriotic Lambayequano. 
 The two towns are but six miles apart, yet the Chic- 
 layano considers the men of Lambayeque some de- 
 grees beneath him both in the moral and social scale. 
 Perhaps the narrowness of mind so often seen where 
 little interchange of thought takes place between 
 town and town, or country and country, may account 
 for these prejudices ; cosmopolitans get their angles 
 rubbed off. It is not so long since a somewhat 
 similar feeling divided the rival towns of our own 
 country, Liverpool and Manchester. Since the crossing 
 of Chat Moss by a railway has opened the way to 
 more frequent communication, mutual interests have 
 operated to destroy the hostility. But in Chiclayo and 
 Lambayeque the interests clash, chiefly on the irriga- 
 
68 IRRIGATION LAWS. 
 
 tion question, a doubly important one in this rainless 
 country. In dry seasons, the river supply is in- 
 sufficient for the agricultural wants. The Rio de 
 Lambayeque divides into two branches, one ending 
 north of the port San Jose, the other some ten miles 
 south, and near the Caleta or port of Eten. This delta 
 is owned by residents of Chiclayo, Reque, Monsefu, 
 and Eten, all towns and villages lying on the southern 
 arm of the river, a small portion only being owned by 
 Lambayequanos, whose town lies on the northern arm, 
 six miles from the coast. The laws regulating the 
 water supply, despite their simple construction, in- 
 variably give rise to disputes, sometimes ending in 
 bloodshed, between the commissioners severally ap- 
 pointed by the towns to meet at the toma, or partition- 
 weir. Attached to the fee-simple of each estate are 
 certain rights, entitling the holder to so many rega- 
 deros, or irrigations, the number of which, originally 
 regulated in proportion to the area cultivated, is com- 
 plicated by purchased rights, custom, etc. Sometimes 
 a cultivator will buy an estate lying above his own, 
 simply that he may use the water-rights appertaining 
 thereto on his own land. The commissioner's duty 
 is to calculate the amount yielded by the river, and 
 apportion it accordingly by raising or lowering the 
 rough stone weir stretched across the deepest branch 
 of the river. Occasionally parties, made desperate 
 by the prospect of drought, threaten to demolish the 
 weir. In fact, the commissioner's duty is at all times 
 
THE TOWNS. 69 
 
 an arduous and ungrateful task. These quarrels, and 
 also hereditary feuds between the principal families, 
 sadly mar the harmony which apparently ought to 
 reign where Nature has showered her blessings so 
 freely, where the sun daily pours his beams over fields 
 of golden sugar-cane and maize, while at night the 
 breeze is soft and mild enough to permit of sleeping 
 in the open air without danger. 
 
 The towns in this valley are all built after the 
 same model one prevailing throughout the Two 
 Americas. A large square Plaza, surrounded by 
 government buildings, municipal courts, the gaol and 
 the church, with some private houses and shops, 
 forms the centre or nucleus of the settlement, from 
 which radiate streets in all directions. 
 
 The houses are invariably planned on the Moorish 
 pattern, i.e. having in the centre a courtyard, the 
 four sides of which are formed by the various rooms. 
 The welcome shade and coolness generally to be 
 found in these courtyards are a boon duly appre- 
 ciated in a hot country like Peru, and prove the 
 fitness of this mode of construction. All the walls 
 are built of sun-dried bricks, which, when plastered 
 over with mud and whitewashed, present a neat and 
 clean appearance. The streets are sometimes paved 
 with cobble-stones, but more generally left in their 
 natural state, and their surfaces much pulverized and 
 broken up by the continuous traffic of years possibly 
 centuries. 
 
70 WA TER-SELLERS. 
 
 At Chiclayo there are no public water or gas- 
 works ; the supply of these two wants is therefore 
 left to individual effort. It is quite a remarkable 
 sight to see the water-mules, with a full bucket of 
 water slung on either side, trooping into town from 
 the neighbouring brook in the early morning. " Agua 
 fresca, agua, esta manana, Senora " (Fresh water, 
 water for you this morning, lady) cries the dealer as 
 he hurries his mule down the street, selling his article 
 at a price which would make the hearts of share- 
 holders in London water companies sore with envy. 
 Nearly all provisions and necessaries of life are 
 brought* to town on horse or mule back, the soft 
 unpaved roads of the country being quite unsuited 
 for the passage of vehicles. Beside the water-carriers, 
 troops of ponies and mules and donkeys some laden 
 with bundles of green alfafa, or lucerne, huge enough 
 to leave nothing visible of the beast except head and 
 legs ; others laden with pigs, kids, meat, vegetables, 
 and all kinds of market produce may be met in all 
 directions. 
 
 A Spanish-American town is always seen at its 
 best in the early morning, soon after sunrise, when 
 the air is fresh and cool, and not yet heated by the 
 sun. At that hour the partly veiled senora trips to 
 early matins, or perhaps to bathe in the river ; the 
 chacrero goes to his farm ; presently the shop-shutters 
 are taken down, and the buzz and movement of 
 human life begins much after the same fashion as at 
 home, only several hours earlier.. 
 
A NEW WORLD TO INVESTIGATE. 71 
 
 It would seem, however, that all the activity of 
 most inhabitants of South America is worked off in 
 the first half of the day, in the hours between sunrise 
 and breakfast, which meal is usually taken at eleven 
 or twelve o'clock. After that hour, the great heat 
 begins, and the siesta is almost universally indulged 
 in, so that if any more out-door work has to be done 
 that day, the few hours before sunset, when the air 
 is cooled by the sea-breeze, are alone available. 
 
 Life in Chiclayo moves but slowly, and is seldom 
 varied by public amusements of any kind. It would 
 be thought very monotonous by a new-comer from 
 busy quickly-moving Europe. Indeed the chief "dis- 
 tractions" are the religious ceremonies and proces- 
 sions already described, which naturally do not convey 
 the same meaning to the mind of the Protestant as 
 to the Roman Catholic. 
 
 Work of some kind is the only panacea for the 
 dreadful ennui which would be experienced by a 
 visitor having no special occupation or luxuries. But 
 indeed there is no excuse for any one remaining 
 unoccupied in these fertile valleys of Peru, which 
 teem with interesting curiosities of the animal and 
 vegetable world, the study and description of which 
 would well repay research and might tempt a lover 
 of natural history to contribute his mite to the 
 general amount of knowledge. The strange and 
 beautiful tropical plants and fruits, the trees so unlike 
 those left at home, the latter filled with beautiful 
 
72 "FRESH FIELDS AND PASTURES NEW." 
 
 birds of brilliant plumage and varying song to be 
 found in Peru, excite the beholder's curiosity, and 
 might well awake in the dullest mind that desire for 
 fresh glimpses of knowledge which is said to be man's 
 common inheritance. " Give me something new," 
 says the child already tired of the toys received on 
 his birthday. " Tell me something new," says the 
 child of larger growth, his learned and cultured parent ; 
 possibly the enfant gate oi European luxury and ease, 
 with skilled hands near to supply his every want, 
 even to the desires born of an artificial existence in 
 which nature and the beautiful works of the Creator 
 are perhaps only seen in their native habitat, at long 
 intervals. 
 
 The writer ventures to hope that " something new, 
 something true" may perhaps be found in these 
 pages. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 PROVINCIAL LIFE. 
 
 Foreigners in Peru Settlers Adventurers Annual Fete 
 Native Industries Eten Straw-plaiters Social Customs 
 Chilca Santa Rosa " Oiling the Waves" Sociability 
 of the Peruvians Cock-fighting Monsefu Fte. 
 
 THE visitor from busy Europe whom chance may 
 lead to remain for any length of time in a Peruvian 
 valley, must not expect to find the numerous distrac- 
 tions which at home are provided by the numbers 
 whose business it is to cater for the public amusement. 
 Should he prefer a life of continual gaiety, he will 
 sorely miss the various attractions of the turf, theatres, 
 shooting, hunting, and the numerous town and 
 country pastimes to which he is accustomed. It is 
 even worse for a follower of studious pursuits. The 
 absence of all libraries and societies for the cultiva- 
 tion of knowledge restrict his resources even more 
 than those of the pleasure-seeker. Both, it is true, 
 shortly become absorbed in the special business which 
 may have brought them to the country ; but when 
 
74 FOREIGNERS WELCOMED. 
 
 once the road or railway has been made, or the land 
 cleared and prepared for cultivation, things drop back 
 into their old narrow grooves. Should circumstances 
 induce the visitor to stay on from year to year, he 
 gradually becomes more used to the ways of the 
 place, as his interests therein multiply. Such a one 
 is sure to find encouragement at every step, and a 
 ready welcome to the houses of the best families. If 
 he shows average abilities and energy, he will soon 
 find himself trusted with the management of affairs, 
 and the reward of his opinion and assistance is 
 generally marriage with a daughter of his patron. 
 Here in the north, and especially in the valleys of 
 Chiclayo and Lambayeque, this ready road to suc- 
 cess has resulted in the well-to-do position of many 
 foreigners, and a well-intentioned stranger is welcomed 
 with kindness and hospitality, though he may be 
 penniless and friendless on arriving. 
 
 Be it well understood, however, that the native 
 employer understands how to discriminate between 
 the intelligent and steady craftsman and the large class 
 of indolent mauvais sujets who go to Peru, thinking to 
 find a better field for the quaint notions of freedom 
 picked up in the gin palaces of New York and "'Frisco." 
 This is a very numerous class ; they are full of " tall 
 talk," and to judge from the certificates of their 
 abilities (delivered verbally, to reduce their travelling 
 impedimenta), are capable of making anything, from 
 a sewing-machine to a railway. If necessary, they 
 
PERUVIAN MANNERS, 75 
 
 could discourse learnedly on politics, and even deliver 
 the true principles of republicanism from the presi- 
 dential chair. They are great at " guessing," but very 
 decided in their opinions as to the exact number 
 of grains of nutmeg which a brandy cocktail should 
 contain, and in the mysteries of "gin slings," "pick-me- 
 ups," " eye-openers," "Angostura bitters," and similar 
 horrible compounds, which they assiduously concoct 
 for the benefit of the first among them who buys a 
 shanty and sets up a " bar." What with the German- 
 English talk, the nasal twang, roaring laughter, and 
 often, when under the influence of drink, the loud 
 curses followed by blows, the milder-tempered native 
 may often ask himself, like John Chinaman, " Is not 
 our barbarism better than their civilization ? " At all 
 events, the Peruvians are gentle-mannered and warm- 
 hearted. In " Cuzco and Lima," Mr. Clement Mark- 
 ham justly eulogizes the existence of these good 
 qualities in all the people he visited among the heights 
 of the Andes, and such the present writer found them 
 in the north and the south, on the seaboard, and up 
 among the mountains. There is one great difference 
 in the habits of daily life prevailing here. In no parts, 
 north, south, or on the seaboard, are games and out- 
 door sports, so universal all over Europe, practised 
 here. In fact, except in Lima itself, these seem 
 totally unknown. On dias de fiesta, or fete-days of 
 the Church, some attempt is made towards amusing 
 the public, with the usual routine of ecclesiastical 
 
7 6 F&TE AT MONSEFU. 
 
 processions and ceremonies which take up the greater 
 part of the day. 
 
 On one occasion we attended the annual fete at 
 Monsefu, a town of Spanish origin, lying between 
 Chiclayo and the port of Eten. The fete took place 
 in the latter days of September. We had been 
 invited six months earlier, with the understanding 
 that it would be a sight worth any sacrifice to behold. 
 
 Entering on the western side, we passed under 
 a tumble-down triumphal arch, and found the Plaza 
 and streets of the town crowded with people of the 
 same type as those we had seen in Chiclayo on 
 the occasion of the Easter procession. Among the 
 crowd were some who had come from distant parts 
 of the Sierra, Indians in name as well as in appear- 
 ance, and easily distinguished by the long black matted 
 hair hanging over their shoulders and sometimes 
 plaited like a woman's. They brought alfojas (saddle- 
 bags), ponchos y and skins of the Vicuna, bark and 
 other products of the Sierra for sale, and would take 
 back in exchange salt, spirits, and foreign goods. 
 
 The chief articles for sale were, however, straw 
 hats, brought from Guayaquil, and those manufactured 
 in the adjoining town of Eten, distant only two miles, 
 of which mention will shortly be made. Corn, fruits, 
 chicha, spirits, and the usual catalogue of articles 
 were also to be purchased. The inevitable brass 
 band played in one corner of the square, and the 
 business of the day began by following the crowd first 
 
HOLIDAY-MAKING. 77 
 
 round the square, then into the side streets, stopping 
 now and then to salute a friend, who never took leave 
 of you without offering his chicha gourd or bottle of 
 spirits. There was much talk, much drinking, and 
 much smoking, but no games of " kiss in the ring " 
 among the young folk, though among the crowd were 
 many pretty girls well worth kissing, and also robust 
 youths who must have thought so ! An air of staid 
 formality appears to constrain this Spanish-American 
 race in all they do, which is all the more conspicuous 
 when the shovel is thrown aside and the holiday 
 poncho donned. In the field the labourer overlooks 
 the abruptness of his overseer's " Melchior, be alive 
 with that axe 1 " But in the Plaza at Monsefu on 
 a fete-day he will have nothing less than, "Don 
 Melchior, how are you, my friend ? " And why not ? 
 Are we not all brothers ? At least in South America. 
 " Omnes homines natura sequales sunt." 
 
 Two miles south of Monsefu, the small native 
 town of Eten claims mention, from the fact that its 
 inhabitants are said to have preserved the unmixed 
 purity of their race since the conquest. Dr. Hutchinson, 
 in whose company the writer visited Eten, in No- 
 vember, 1872, suspects the Etenites to be of Inca 
 descent, giving as his reasons their resemblance in 
 face and form to the figures in Montero's great 
 picture of the obsequies of Atahualpa.* During our 
 visit we entered several dwellings, in all of which the 
 
 * " Two Years in Peru," vol. ii. p. 205. 
 
73 STRAW-WORK. 
 
 owners, with their wives and daughters, were grouped 
 tailor-fashion on the floor, busily engaged in plaiting 
 straw into hats, mats, and cigar-cases, or in weaving 
 woollen quilts. Quite young children, apparently 
 under five years of age, were entrusted with the 
 coarser and easier kind of workmanship required for 
 the cheap hats, while the elderly members of the 
 group worked the fine straw into cigar-cases and 
 other small articles, some of which were beautiful 
 specimens of plaiting, made of fine white straw, the 
 ornamental designs of figures and flowers being 
 worked in with green or red. Some plaiters are 
 clever enough to be able to copy any figure of which 
 you may give them a model, be it fish, fowl, or human 
 being. One dark-haired Eten maid showed us a 
 piece of work which had occupied her incessantly for 
 six weeks, and she only asked fifteen dollars for this ; 
 but some are said to sell for as much as a hundred 
 dollars. The roughly plaited sombreros sell at one 
 or one and a half dollars each. 
 
 The women were all dressed in black serge gowns, 
 over which a white shawl is thrown on the rare occa- 
 sions of their going out of doors. This costume has 
 been worn for three centuries, and is said to be a 
 sign of mourning for Atahualpa. In Eten, brothers 
 and sisters are allowed to marry ; this, we are told, 
 was customary among the Incas. For the last twenty 
 years the cure of the town has tried to induce his 
 parishioners to abandon the evil custom, but has met 
 
ETEN. 79 
 
 with only partial success. Their personal appearance 
 confirms the suspicion ; for their small stature and 
 weak childish limbs denote a physique which has 
 deteriorated from other causes than sedentary and 
 indoor habits, and total abstinence from field-work. 
 In one particular Dr. Hutchinson's description of 
 Eten errs. The Etenites do not cultivate the ground 
 themselves, but rely for their support exclusively 
 upon their straw and cotton manufactures. They 
 buy their meat, vegetables, and provisions chiefly 
 from the neighbouring towns of Monsefu and Reque, 
 and the close proximity to Eten of the chacras, culti- 
 vated by the people of Monsefu, probably led the 
 doctor into error. 
 
 One day we called on the parish priest, and 
 endeavoured to obtain some further information re- 
 specting his parishioners ; but for all our urging we 
 got little. An air of mystery hung over the Etenites, 
 which the priest had apparently failed to pierce, 
 though he had lived among them for a great many 
 years. We were told that they were good Christians ; 
 that they attended church regularly on holydays, and 
 gave freely towards its support ; that they worked all 
 the week at their plaiting and mat-weaving, and that 
 as we had seen them grouped on the floor of their 
 cottages, so they might be seen any day of the week 
 all the year round, working away, and holding little 
 communion with any one outside their own doors ; 
 that they intermarried among themselves, and that no 
 
So RESERVED HABITS. 
 
 Etenite had been known to contract marriage with a 
 forastero, or stranger. The doctor did not like to 
 be beaten ; so to gratify his thirst for information we 
 walked round the dusty Plaza and peered into the 
 cottages again and again. But it was all to no 
 purpose. We were shown the mats, the hats, and the 
 straw ware ; we were told in bad Spanish the prices 
 thereof; but nothing could we extract about the 
 social relations of the vendors, or their traditions 
 and beliefs. Mr. Stevenson, Senor Paz-Soldan, and 
 Mr. Spence, in their writings, speak of the same 
 reticence among the Etenites concerning their pro- 
 bable origin. But they are no exceptions to the 
 general rule. It would be nearly impossible to ex- 
 tract similar information from the inhabitants of any 
 village in the Indian Sierra ; for the double reason 
 that the traditional instincts of the race forbid the 
 divulgence of such secrets to foreigners, and, what is 
 more probable, that in their ignorance of the art of 
 writing they have gradually forgotten whatever there 
 might have been to tell. 
 
 In many respects, the village of Chilca, lying to 
 the south of Lima beyond Lurin, bears close re- 
 semblance to Eten. Both villages are built on a 
 barren plain, whose soil produces nothing to support 
 its inhabitants, who occupy themselves likewise in 
 plaiting and weaving. The Chileans are stated to have 
 carefully avoided mixing with people of other races, 
 and in this respect resemble the Etenites. The feel- 
 
LOVE OF HOME. 8r 
 
 ing of strong local attachment, so strongly developed 
 in the Peruvians, and the reluctance to leave the place 
 where their ancestors first settled, no doubt account 
 for the anomaly which maintains villages in the same 
 spots, though they were once cultivated gardens, and 
 now, deprived of water, have deteriorated into waste 
 lands. But in the case of the Etenites, this may 
 perhaps be traced to the dispersion of the great united 
 Incarial family effected by the Spaniards. Driven from 
 their ancient cities in the mountains by the sword and 
 the ruthless exactions of their insatiable conquerors, 
 and feeling incapable of serving as bondsmen those 
 whose libertine excesses and inordinate greed they 
 soon learned to despise, they seem to have fled to 
 arid wastes which offered no temptation to Spanish 
 pursuit, and where, undisturbed, they could condole 
 together on their misfortunes. 
 
 Another isolated community, similar in many 
 respects to that of Eten, may be found at a few 
 miles' distance to the north of the latter town, at 
 Santa Rosa. Lying on the coast, its sole industry is 
 fishing ; the village huts are built on the low sand- 
 hills fringing the coast, which here, as all along the 
 north Peruvian seaboard, slopes with a gradual incline 
 into the sea. Santa Rosa lies half-way between Eten 
 and Pimentel. Here the tide falls only four feet, 
 excepting at spring-tides. Long land-nets are laid 
 down at high tide along the front, which, when raised 
 at the ebb, are generally well filled with mazarilla 
 
 G 
 
82 OILING THE WAVES. 
 
 or bream, of which a considerable haul is often made. 
 For reaching the fishing ground and gathering in the 
 catch, the Santa Rosan fishermen use small canoes 
 made of plaited rushes, measuring from eight to 
 twelve feet in length. The pointed ends are covered 
 in like an ordinary canoe, while the paddler sits in 
 the open, uncovered space in the centre, which also 
 holds the fish caught. The canoes are propelled by 
 means of wooden paddles with knife-shaped blades, 
 and the fishermen exhibit considerable skill when 
 passing through the heavy surf which constantly 
 prevails along the coast. 
 
 Should any enterprising philanthropist establish 
 a system of " oiling the waves " along this coast, it 
 would indeed be a blessing to the canoeists. Fancy 
 being borne in calmly on the smooth long roller and 
 safely landed high and dry on the beach, instead of 
 fighting one's way with difficulty through the crest- 
 ing breakers, eye and hand both having their work to 
 do, spite of the spray dashing into the face. In the 
 experiments made at Peterhead, Aberdeenshire, in 
 1883, it was clearly proved that a few drops of com- 
 mon oil had the effect of spreading a thin film over 
 the cresting waves (one drop spread to a circle three 
 feet in diameter), which quite prevented their " break- 
 ing ; " and then the " ground swell " acted as a lever, 
 and bore small craft unresistingly to land. Those 
 interested in the subject will find valuable statistics 
 as to the efficacy of this process in an article by Miss 
 
FETE AT MONSEFU. 83 
 
 Gordon Gumming in the volume of the Nineteenth 
 Century for 1882. Failing such valuable aid, one 
 cannot but admire the skill of the Peruvian fishermen 
 in guiding their well-filled canoes safely through the 
 breaking surf. 
 
 To return from this digression to the fete at 
 Monsefu. It is perhaps difficult for a stranger, with 
 European ideas of active enjoyment, to understand 
 the South American notion of complete idleness as 
 happiness, these people apparently recognizing no 
 intermediate stage between that dolce far niente and 
 industrious labour. Active recreation, such as is 
 afforded by the greater number of English sports, is 
 here unknown. The principal pleasure in South 
 America consists in the interchange of visits between 
 neighbouring families, a proof of the sociability reign- 
 ing throughout. And they appear to love each other's 
 society, though, as is often the case, when they meet 
 they have little to communicate. Thus, while some 
 went to Monsefu to mix among their friends and see 
 new faces, many others were there with the sole object 
 of selling their wares or buying new ones. Whether 
 business were done or no, all would make merry, 
 and go home determined to come again next year. 
 
 Among them were " sportsmen," and these assem- 
 bled in a cockpit, where their favourites weVe advertised 
 to fight during the day. The cockpits are circular in 
 shape, the floor of the arena being levelled and spread 
 with sand, while the seats are raised all round, like an 
 
84 COCK-FIGHTING. 
 
 amphitheatre, in tiers one above the other, for the 
 accommodation of the spectators. The fighting birds 
 are all of the English breed known as game-cocks ; 
 and here it is the custom to arm the birds with 
 cuchillos, or knives of four inches in length, which are 
 strapped on to the left leg. These cuchillos are 
 much sharpened at the points, and are curved in form 
 of a scythe. When the day's sport is over they are 
 carefully cleaned and put away in small cases, with 
 much the same care as a gentleman bestows on his 
 razors. As may be imagined, with the use of such 
 formidable weapons, the combat is soon over ; a stab 
 or two from the stronger or more skilful cock settles 
 the affair, and the murdered " birdie " falls without 
 uttering a cry, but with open mouth, as if gasping 
 for the life which he feels is fast leaving his body. 
 
 On one occasion, we were present at a match in 
 which five celebrated cocks, who had won their laurels 
 by fighting knifeless, were backed against an equal 
 number, destined this time to engage in fatal conflict. 
 At first they fought single matches, and a sum of one 
 hundred dollars was laid on each match, with two 
 hundred extra for the winner of the greatest number. 
 The conqueror in one round fought with a new adver- 
 sary ; and one brave fellow killed his two birds. 
 Twice it happened that both combatants were so 
 badly wounded that they were unable to stand up, 
 and the judges had to watch closely which of the two 
 first dropped his head in death, in order to name the 
 
RESTAURANTS. 85 
 
 victor. The betting raged briskly all the time the 
 two birds were dying, and the odds were influenced 
 by the twitching of a limb, the closing of an eye, the 
 droop of the head, or by such signs as to connoisseurs 
 denoted a speedy collapse. The scene was disgusting, 
 scarcely less so than the national bull-fight, in which 
 men share the risk with the bull. 
 
 Bull-fights are not included in the list of diversions 
 practised in the provinces ; they are confined exclu- 
 sively to Lima, where they still form, as in the " good 
 old times " of the Spanish viceroys, the most popular 
 amusement. Occasionally a bull may be driven into 
 the Plaza at Chiclayo or Monsefu, to endure the 
 harmless worrying of a dozen amateur picador es ; but 
 in the absence of trained skill, the animal is let off 
 none the worse, save for disturbance of mind. 
 
 A good business was done at Monsefu at the 
 picanterias, or small restaurants, where chicha and 
 picantes of fish, meat, and vegetables are sold. Chicha 
 is a beer made from Indian corn, and is of a dark 
 yellow colour, possessing an agreeably sharp and 
 slightly bitter taste. There are scores of picantes y 
 among which the zango, lagua, the charquican, cata- 
 pulcra, and adobe are the favourites. Zango and 
 lagua are made of pork and flour, catapulcra of beef 
 or mutton and potatoes baked and pounded, adobe 
 consists of fried pork. All the dishes are highly 
 seasoned with cayenne and achote grains, which give 
 them a red tint. So there was choice of dishes ; and 
 
86 PICANTES. 
 
 we could observe certain epicures visiting each restau- 
 rant in turn, tasting a small cup of picante at each, 
 till they found the one which took their fancy. Gor- 
 mandism is by no means exceptional. The correct 
 answer to an offer of refreshment is " Yes ;" and picantes 
 and dulces mark the divisions of the day for many of 
 the Peruvians. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NATIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 Railways Eten Balsas Cholos Simple Food Fingers 
 versus Forks Provincial Life The Ethiopian Eye The 
 Panuela Riot in Chiclayo Local Government Vultures 
 Huacas Pottery The Picci Skull. 
 
 THE provinces of Chiclayo and Lambayeque are 
 better off for railways than any of the other valleys 
 in the north of Peru. They rejoice in both a broad 
 and a narrow gauge line, which, to a certain extent, 
 compete with each other in carrying sugar to the 
 coast from the haciendas near Chiclayo and those 
 along the road to Sana, also the rich rice crops from 
 Ferenafe. The broad gauge (4 ft. 8 J in.) starts from 
 the port of Eten, at a point two miles from the town. 
 The description " port " must be taken in the sense 
 in which it is understood on this part of the coast, for 
 Eten is nothing more than an open roadstead, where 
 such large-sized steamers as those of the Pacific Steam 
 Navigation Company can only find anchorage at a 
 distance of not less than three miles from shore. The 
 Eten Railway Company have done much towards 
 
88 RAILWAYS. 
 
 mitigating the dangers and inconveniences of landing 
 on a coast whereon the mighty " rollers " of the Pacific 
 break with considerable violence. They have thrown 
 out a jetty, or iron mole, nearly half a mile in length. 
 The line connects Eten with Chiclayo, at which point it 
 divides into two branches, one proceeding northwards 
 and passing Lambayeque en route, and the other east- 
 wards towards Pomalca, Combo, and Patapo. Dr. 
 Hutchinson, in " Two Years in Peru/' has enumerated 
 the government decrees under which the Eten and 
 Pimentel lines were constructed, and here, as in other 
 cases, the " Railway War " which naturally took place 
 is only of local interest. Suffice it to say, that a 
 second party of capitalists put their faith in the 
 superior advantages of the small Bay of Pimentel, 
 lying between San Jose and Eten, only six and a half 
 miles north of the latter place. 
 
 The narrow guage (three feet) leaves the port of 
 Pimentel in a more direct easterly direction, and con- 
 sequently forms a shorter route to Chiclayo, where 
 it likewise divides, one branch going to Picci and 
 Ferenafe, and the other to Lambayeque, whence it is 
 intended to proceed further north, on to the Jayanca, 
 Motupe, and the broad grass lands of Olmos. On 
 this portion of the seaboard of South America, the 
 coast bends in a north-westerly direction, and shelves 
 into the sea at so slight an angle that at Pimentel a 
 depth of four fathoms is only reached at a distance 
 of three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and at San 
 
BALSAS. 89 
 
 Jose and Eten the distance is greater still. In this 
 respect the shore line resembles the foreshore of North 
 Holland^ where a similar discussion arose as to the 
 best way of providing a suitable harbour for the 
 Hague, off Scheveningen in the North S^a. The 
 question has occasioned much debate among Dutch 
 engineers, and a parallel question arose in 1872, 
 when it was proposed to establish a great port of 
 refuge and commerce in the north of Peru at 
 Pimentel. 
 
 On such a coast, the only safe means of landing is 
 in the balsa, or raft, formed of perhaps a dozen trunks 
 of the Guayaquil cabbage tree, lashed side by side. 
 This raft is propelled by means of a large lugger sail, 
 and steered by cholos using long paddles aft. These 
 cholos are by far the hardiest and most healthy race 
 of men in the province. At the proper season, they 
 take long trips of several days' duration out to sea in 
 search of fish, and seldom come back without a good 
 boatful. They are square-built, sturdy-looking, sun- 
 burnt men, with splendid constitutions, a proof of 
 which is that they can imbibe large quantities of the 
 vitriol which is sold in the villages under the name 
 of aguardiente, without suffering very severely from 
 its "after effects." To their credit be it said that 
 signs of intemperance are rare, and, taken all the year 
 round, the cholo is a sober, hard-working man. Rice 
 boiled with small scraps of meat forms the basis of 
 his daily food, and as it is extensively cultivated in 
 
90 PRIMITIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 the province, it is an inexpensive form of nourish- 
 ment. Beans and potatoes are much esteemed, 
 and the Peruvian cholo stands as living evidence 
 of the strength and health obtainable from a nearly 
 exclusively vegetable diet. Another example of this 
 is the Scottish Highlander, whose food consists 
 mainly of oatmeal porridge, as simply prepared as 
 rice in Peru, or even more so. Here the rice is 
 boiled in a little water and then strained off as best 
 may be, then strips of Chili pepperpods are mixed 
 with it, imparting a sharp and agreeable taste. Water 
 is the usual beverage ; when chicha can be procured 
 it is considered a great treat 
 
 A foreigner is at first surprised at the abstemi- 
 ousness of the people and the simplicity of their 
 food habits not confined to the humbler classes, 
 but prevailing among the rich as well. Even in 
 these days of cheap cutlery, knives and forks are 
 by no means in general use. A wooden spoon is 
 the only thing used among the poorer classes, and 
 with food for which that implement is unfit, such 
 as roast meat, fingers do the work of knives and 
 forks. An unpleasant piece of politeness consists in 
 picking out a tit-bit from the cooking-pot with the 
 fingers, and offering it to the guest. This is a habit 
 even among the higher class, who might know better ; 
 but it is as much a mark of civility as the same habit 
 among the Persian haute aristocracie, who tear off 
 the wing of a fowl with their hands, and offer it to a 
 
LOCAL INTERESTS. 91 
 
 guest out of respect to ancient usages much as the 
 very old-fashioned Highlander spits in his hand before 
 offering it to a guest in hospitable welcome. 
 
 One cannot expect to find in these up-country 
 districts the manners or the delicacy of thought to 
 which we are accustomed at home. In the family 
 circle, whether strangers are present or not, the con- 
 versation is of the most "free" description, and 
 matters which with us are scarcely even alluded to 
 are discussed in the most open manner, and this 
 among the first families in Chiclayo. 
 
 In provincial drawing-rooms, the conversation is, 
 as a rule, restricted to subjects of local interest, the 
 sayings and doings of the neighbours forming its 
 staple. Human nature is alike all the world over, 
 and " Little Pedlington " has its parallel even under 
 Peruvian skies. Still, the contrast between republican 
 and national feeling strikes one's observation. In 
 the dullest of English provincial towns, the con- 
 versation turns at least occasionally upon Govern- 
 ment and its doings, on the national relations with 
 other governments, etc. A Republic is split up into 
 sectional communities, and local affairs are paramount. 
 Here the provincials seem very little to care what 
 may be happening in Lima, their political capital. 
 The cholo, for instance, takes but little interest in 
 national events ; he has more pride in saying, " I am a 
 Chiclayano," than in proclaiming his nationality. They 
 cannot be called a united nation ; for they are cut up 
 
92 THE TARBRUSH. 
 
 into factions and parties, which are often brought into 
 collision through the private interests of their leaders. 
 In Chiclayan society, traces of Ethiopian origin 
 more or less diluted are very prevalent ; but one is not 
 supposed to notice the various indications of " black 
 blood " which the practised eye very soon learns to 
 detect. There are several signs, but, as in the case 
 of passions or character, the eye is the best indicator 
 of descent. There is something in the eye of an 
 Ethiopian which differs entirely from any other ; it 
 seems to change more quickly and remarkably at 
 every change of thought and feeling. The eye of the 
 Hindoo is intense in its expression, but far less sus- 
 ceptible of the many variations between anger and 
 love which may influence the individual. The very 
 soul of the mulatto and mestizo may be read in their 
 eyes, and with practice one really seems to read the 
 thoughts passing through their brains, as if they were 
 printed in a book. Just now it is fashionable to hunt 
 for the "divining rod." Messrs. Cumberland and 
 Bishop declare that the real impediment to the success 
 of their thought-reading experiments is the difficulty 
 of finding "proper subjects." The writer thinks that the 
 much-desired medium (if he really exists in the flesh) 
 is more likely to be found among the warm-blooded 
 mulattoes and mestizos of Peru than the less emotional 
 races of Northern Europe. The mulattoes are the 
 restless members of Peruvian society. If anything 
 is on the tapis, either in the way of amusement or 
 
THE PANUELA. 93 
 
 fighting, they are sure to be foremost among the 
 leaders. At night, in the hacienda and in the villages, 
 they form "fandango rings," in which much con- 
 sumption of chicha takes place, and not a little noise. 
 The panuela, performed by two persons (of oppo- 
 site sex) to the music of the guitar, is the favourite 
 dance. The dancers stand vis-a-vis^ the step is a 
 " shuffle," and each performer waves in the air a 
 handkerchief (panuela) in time with the movements 
 of the dance. At first the performers stand at a 
 distance from each other ; but as the dance proceeds, 
 the music becomes quicker, and consequently the 
 steps more rapid, and they approach nearer and 
 nearer. The spectators clap their hands as accom- 
 paniment to the guitar, shouting " Aha ! aha ! " and 
 a song with some such words as 
 
 "And I winked at her, did I, did I ; 
 
 Aha ! aha ! aha ! aha ! 
 
 And she smiled, and then looked shy ; 
 
 Oho ! oho ! oho ! oho ! " 
 
 and so on ad nauseam. This chorus is a necessary 
 accompaniment to the dance. Then the couple whirl 
 round each other, the man waving his handkerchief 
 once over the lady's head ; and then they part, the 
 music growing slower and more slow as the dancers 
 recede from each other. Repetitions of these move- 
 ments follow, varying in character according to the 
 skill of the performers, and eliciting corresponding 
 applause from the spectators, the consumption of 
 
94 STREET RIOTS. 
 
 chicha and aguardiente not being forgotten, and 
 perhaps contributing to the general hilarity which 
 prevails. 
 
 But the sports are not always harmless ; they 
 sometimes leave behind, as a remembrance, something 
 worse than sore heads. A nice little affair which 
 occurred in Chiclayo on March 16, 1873, gives some 
 idea of the excesses to which the national character 
 may be driven under provocation, and the prompt 
 measures resorted to by the self-constituted authorities. 
 The matter was, that about a dozen prisoners, either 
 undergoing or awaiting sentence in the carcel, or prison, 
 attempted to escape, and got so far as to succeed in 
 disarming their gaolers before the affair got wind. 
 Then quickly seizing their carbines and revolvers, the 
 townsmen rushed to the carcel. The prisoners think- 
 ing that they could brave the mob, fired on them and 
 wounded several. Then the cry resounded in all parts, 
 " Han escapade ! " (They have escaped !) People 
 rushed to their homes, and, fearing some serious riot, 
 put the shutters up to their windows and double-barred 
 the doors. We foreigners took refuge in an apothe- 
 cary's shop, awaiting the end of the tumult. Presently 
 came a knock at the door, and a chola woman came 
 to beg some lint with which to bind up her husband's 
 wounds, he having received a musket ball in the throat. 
 The firing continued for half an hour, then it ceased. 
 Another knock was heard at the door, and a voice 
 cried, " La orden esta ya establicido ; estan muertos " 
 
SUMMARY MEASURES. 95 
 
 (Order is now restored ; they are dead). We after- 
 wards heard the summary mode in which this was 
 accomplished. The carcel consists of one room in 
 the municipal building, on the north side of the Plaza ; 
 towards the side of the street it is closed by a simple 
 grating formed of iron bars. The townsmen advanced 
 in line to this grille, and levelling their carbines 
 deliberately shot down the prisoners, no attempt to 
 interfere being made on the side of the Government 
 authorities. 
 
 The sanitary arrangements in provincial towns 
 are of the most primitive nature. Those of Chiclayo 
 may be taken as an example. Cesspools are made 
 for the inhabitants' use in the corral, or open yard 
 which is found behind all the dwellings ; these pits, 
 which are shallow, are very seldom emptied, their 
 contents being left to be absorbed by the dry sandy 
 soil in which they are dug. When filled, a few feet of 
 earth thrown on hide them from view, and new ones 
 are dug alongside the old. Water is brought in 
 buckets on donkey-back every morning, and its car- 
 riage making it dear to purchase, but little is wasted. 
 The house-refuse is thrown out into the streets at 
 night, and collected early in the morning by carts 
 which convey it to the refuse-heaps on the outskirts of 
 the town. These same refuse-heaps strike a stranger 
 with disgust, for some of the oldest of them rise 
 to sixty feet in height, and contain the "waste" 
 of more than one generation of Chiclayanos. They 
 
96 VULTURES. 
 
 are made doubly disagreeable by the presence of the 
 red and black gallinagos (Cathartes aura> Cathartes 
 fceteus), which play much the same part at Chiclayo 
 that the hungry lean dogs do at Constantinople, 
 being general scavengers. Both these species of 
 vulture are brownish black in colour ; in the one (the 
 Turkey vulture proper) the head and throat are red, 
 and in the other black. They are about the size 
 of a turkeycock, but lanky and bony in appearance. 
 They hop about over the ground with short jerky 
 springs, seeking their food, which however filthy, they 
 devour in greedy gulps -truly " unclean birds." They 
 roost on the housetops, where also they take a noontide 
 siesta, like their protectors. " Protectors " is the right 
 word, for these birds belong to no one ; but the public 
 services they render as unregistered scavengers are 
 sufficiently appreciated to admit of their presence 
 being tolerated, and to throw a stone at a gallinago 
 would be to court unenviable popularity. The red- 
 headed vulture especially leads a lazy, foul life on the 
 dungheap, from which he can only be tempted by the 
 scent of carrion from afar. On these occasions, they 
 evidence extraordinary powers of perception ; for no 
 sooner does some unfortunate overladen donkey or 
 beast of burden succumb to his fate in the distant 
 mont^ than his carcase is surrounded by scores of 
 these horrid ugly carrion birds, which very soon leave 
 only his bare bones to bleach in the sun. 
 
 Dr. Hutchinson, whose researches in Northern 
 
HUACAS RICH IN POTTERY. 97 
 
 Peru have been previously referred to in these pages, 
 has, in his work " Two Years in Peru," sought not 
 unsuccessfully to muffle that peal of bells on which 
 changes in praise of the interesting race of the Incas 
 have been so persistently rung by Prescott, Markham, 
 and a host of other writers, both English and Spanish. 
 That the fine architecture and other marks of pre- 
 Spanish civilization date from a period long ante- 
 cedent to that in which the Incas flourished, and that 
 this race was in fact a <&structive rather than a con- 
 structive one, form the key-notes of his book. His 
 opinion is, that the real history of the Peruvian race 
 has still to be written, and that the only materials 
 from which it can be compiled lie buried in the 
 thousands of huacas or burial mounds, and under 
 the ruins of temples and fortifications everywhere to 
 be seen along the coast. In this opinion the writer 
 concurs, and he thinks that few will dissent who know 
 the country. Every new huaca opened may be said 
 to do the work of the stone thrown on the wayside 
 cairn by the passing traveller, just as in Scandinavian 
 fashion, the " Old Man " is built up by degrees by 
 the constant contributions of passing wayfarers, who 
 thus help to benefit " those who come after," by 
 raising a pile which points the way onward, in the 
 right direction. 
 
 In making the Chiclayo-Ferenafe* section of the 
 Pimentel Railway, the constructors had occasion to cut 
 through one of these huacas at Picci, a small village 
 
 H 
 
98 SMALL SKELETONS. 
 
 lying half-way on the road between these towns. The 
 output was rich in skeletons and in pottery vessels. 
 The pottery consisted chiefly of the black ware, 
 common in the country. One fine specimen was a 
 kind of jug, with two globes joining, a neck rising 
 from each, the two necks connected by a handle. 
 The head of a nondescript animal formed the top of 
 one neck (the other having no ornamental head), and 
 the liquid poured from either mouth. The globular 
 body was ornamented with a simple scroll pattern, 
 rather like those found on Egyptian pottery at Kennah. 
 The sketch of this water jug, made on the covering of 
 this book, will give some idea of its peculiar appearance. 
 The skeletons are interesting, as proving the 
 existence of a dwarfish race, among which the tallest 
 measured scarcely more than four feet in height, while 
 the rest were considerably shorter. The skulls 
 belonged to the pure American type known in 
 craniology as brachycephalic. The characteristics are 
 broad heads with flattened forehead ; most when ex- 
 humed were partly covered with long black hair, and 
 measured six inches and a half in length by five 
 inches and a half broad. The hinder part of the Picci 
 skull is flattened in an upward direction, and, as will 
 be seen from the measurements, their form approaches 
 to a circle. The forehead is low and receding, and 
 the nose seems to commence its curve at the upper 
 part ; the eye-holes are small. The bodies were clothed 
 in matting, and some few copper tools and ornaments 
 
EARTHWORKS. 99 
 
 were found on opening the bags. The tools were 
 chiefly spades, hoes, and knives, and were made of 
 an alloy of copper and tin. Among the ornaments 
 found were little tweezers, no doubt used by the men 
 for pulling out hairs from beard and eyebrows a 
 custom of self-torment which we are told these people 
 thought acceptable to their idols, and which very 
 probably accounts for the present beardless state of 
 the modern Peruvian race. 
 
 The valley of Chiclayo is literally strewn with 
 huacas, some of which were evidently used as tumuli, 
 and others as fortifications and residences. Most of 
 the natural sandhills which dot the plain here and 
 there are crowned with terraces formed of rubble 
 work and adobes, rising in steps from the base 
 upwards, and generally having a broad level plateau 
 on the summit. The earthworks have been scantily 
 examined, and they offer an immense field for the 
 researches of antiquarians and treasure-seekers, the 
 few that have been opened yielding a rich harvest of 
 pottery ware and copper tools. But hitherto the 
 excavations have not been carried far below the 
 surface. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 IN THE SOUTH. 
 
 An American Pampa Clouds Stones Nitrate Fields The 
 Desert Great Heat Trade Winds Nueva Carolina Life 
 in the Pampa Pampa Society Loneliness New-comers 
 Woman's Occupations Religion Tirana Bolivian Gip- 
 sies Tent-life Canchones A Sea of Sand Matilla Pica 
 Baths Chacras Tarapaca. 
 
 LET us now bid a brief farewell to Chiclayo and its 
 pleasant surroundings, and pay a visit to the southern 
 provinces of Peru, where life is carried on under very 
 different conditions. "Nueva Carolina" is one of 
 several nitrate establishments, lying at the foot of the 
 low range of hills which form the western border of 
 the great Pampa de Tamarugal. Eastwards, beyond 
 the smooth sandy plain, rises in th'e far distance the 
 range of the Andes, raising on high their clear blue 
 peaks. To paint them we should require a wash of 
 chrome-yellow at the base, blending with ultramarine 
 blue, which pales into sky-blue at the peaks. On still 
 days, there is nothing to break the sharp outline 
 except an occasional puff of smoke from Misti, the 
 
DRIVING CLOUDS. 101 
 
 volcano behind Arequipa. Here and there the west- 
 ward horizon is broken by clumps of algarova trees, 
 their forms reflected in what appears to be water, but 
 is only the mirage, and as in other desert countries, 
 these apparent sheets of water recede as one advances. 
 In places appear dark patches of alluvial soil, in 
 which are still to be traced signs of former cultiva- 
 tion. In early morning, " desert stillness " reigns 
 supreme over the pampa, a silence unbroken till 
 by-and-by a gentle breeze sets in from the sea, 
 raising curious conical-shaped clouds, which travel 
 slowly along the level surface till they are lost to 
 view in the distance. A similar appearance in the 
 Himalayas gave rise to the native legend of "the 
 cows of the gods " going up the mountain peaks 
 to their pasturage on the inaccessible heights, the 
 highest of which, an immense snow-covered cone, 
 is said to be the abode of " the Great Spirit." The 
 appearance of these clouds on the pampa is the signal 
 for the miners setting to work to extract the rich ore 
 which lies on the slope of the western hills. 
 
 Seen from the pampa, the low range of nitrate 
 hills resembles the shore as seen from the ocean, and 
 as if to perfect the illusion, now and then a puff of 
 wind raises clouds of white dust, which really look 
 like breakers dashing on the coast. Layers of clink- 
 stone, by some supposed to be aerolites, thickly cover 
 the tops of the hills, reflecting from their bright, flat 
 surfaces the scorching rays of the rising sun. These 
 
102 ERRATICS. 
 
 stones are seldom met with on the plain ; they seem 
 to lie only on the higher grounds. If, as seems 
 probable, they are particles of disintegrated trachytic 
 rock, washed down from the mountains and deposited 
 by floods, their present resting-place on the hill-tops 
 must result from the subsequent upheaval of this 
 range of hills. Their absence anywhere on the plains 
 is doubtless due to the deep sand-drifts, which must 
 long ago have buried them deep under the present 
 surface. They are found again in large quantities, 
 but more rounded in shape, on the opposite side of 
 the pampas, in the dry beds of pre-historic rivers, 
 which formerly poured down the deep ravines in- 
 denting the face of the Andes. A column of black 
 smoke may be seen at intervals rising above the 
 nitrate hills, speaking alike of the treasures hidden 
 there, and of man's industry in searching them out 
 and converting them to his own use. Before English 
 coal was obtainable, the algarova roots, dug up from 
 the pampa, formed the only fuel used by the natives 
 in the elaboration of nitrate of soda. These beds of 
 lignite are practically inexhaustible, but owing to 
 the great consumption in former times of the material 
 lying nearest, they are now at too great a distance 
 from the mines to make its collection very profitable. 
 One mile south of Nueva Carolina, the nitrate 
 hills throw out a spur into the pampa, forming a 
 recess known by the name of Pozo de Almonte, or 
 the "Well of Almonte"," which is justly celebrated 
 
LONELINESS OF THE PAMPA. 103 
 
 for the abundant supply of brackish water which it 
 yields. For a distance of some three miles, the slope 
 of this spur is rich in nitrate. " El Rincon," " Santa 
 Rosa," and " Dolores," are the names of some of the 
 fabriques in which these minerals are refined. For 
 some space in front of the ridge, the surface of 
 the pampa consists of a crust of siliceous mud, 
 which after being baked by the sun splits into 
 cakes, which bear very much the appearance of a 
 lava field in Iceland. For colour, a brush well-filled 
 with sepia and another of chrome-yellow would serve 
 for the pampa and the hills ; the sky would need 
 Prussian blue for its darker parts, toned off into 
 lighter shades and with fleeting white clouds drifting 
 over it. It is a weird prospect ; the sense of vastness 
 and utter loneliness strikes one with awe, and the 
 total absence of any means of supporting life gives 
 a feeling of desolation to the barren expanse of sand 
 and sand-covered rocks, bold as the landscape is, 
 The Pampa de Tamarugal is an immense plateau, 
 raised 3400 feet above sea-level, stretching for a length 
 of a hundred miles or more, the breadth varying from 
 twenty-five to sixty miles, and sand, perpetual sand, 
 over the barren brown hills, seeming as if it would 
 baffle any search after the riches concealed beneath. 
 From the sublime to the ridiculous there is but 
 a step, and the author of " Alice in Wonderland " 
 must have had this sort of landscape in his mind's 
 eye when he made his heroine " weep like anything 
 
104 SEA-BREEZES. 
 
 to see such quantities of sand." But for the miners, 
 not very picturesque objects, the landscape is a desert 
 as solitary and forsaken as that of Sahara, or the 
 waste plains of Palestine and Egypt when untrodden 
 by caravans. 
 
 In these latitudes, the sun glows in the early 
 morning like a red-hot fireball, very quickly absorbing 
 whatever little moisture may have been left behind by 
 the night dews. Heat reigns supreme until noon, man 
 and beast alike groaning under the heat, which often 
 reaches ninety degrees Fahr. and more in the shade. 
 After noon this great heat is somewhat moderated by 
 the wind, which on this coast sets in regularly from 
 the southwest at nearly the same hour every day. 
 Then the desert stillness is suddenly destroyed, and 
 confusion succeeds the undisturbed repose of early 
 morning. The wind, at first a gentle breeze, soon 
 develops into a gale, when it raises huge clouds of 
 sand which it sends whirling across the desert to join 
 others beyond, completely shutting out all view of the 
 Andes and of the sky above them. As the gale drives 
 the sand clouds before it, sweeping down the hillsides 
 and breaking on the broad plain, it gives out a 
 roaring sound, as if triumphant at finding elbow- 
 room and material on which to work its will. At 
 times the wind exerts a force equal to a pressure of 
 forty pounds per square foot, and its velocity is such 
 that a rider at full gallop will fail to overtake an 
 object which the wind is bearing to the other side 
 
SEA-FOGS. 105 
 
 of the pampa. There is nothing to arrest its course, so 
 on it sweeps resistlessly, gathering at each yard more 
 and more sand till these clouds become too heavy to 
 remain suspended, and gradually deposit themselves 
 on the pampa, again to be disturbed by succeeding 
 gales. Heavy rain-clouds are seen scudding aloft on 
 their way to the Andes, on whose western slopes they 
 will presently pour their contents. 
 
 Such is the appearance of the pampa in summer. 
 In winter, which season corresponds to our summer, 
 the nights are marked by the arrival of camenchacas, 
 or sea-fogs, which hang over the plain till late in the 
 day when they are dispersed by the broiling sun. 
 On these nights the thermometer goes down below 
 freezing-point, and the fogs condense, making the 
 ground very damp and coating with salt both the 
 rocks and buildings against which they are driven by 
 the wind. 
 
 Let us now glance at the home-life of intelligent 
 beings whose lot is cast in this barren desert. The 
 buildings of Nueva Carolina are laid out in oblong 
 form, the machinery for refining the nitrate of 
 soda being at the northern end, and the entrance gate 
 at the southern, while the longer sides are formed by 
 dwelling-rooms and offices. The enclosed area is occu- 
 pied by cooling or precipitating tanks, from which the 
 nitrate, when crystallized, is thrown out on the side 
 roads, and there packed in bags for transport to 
 Iquique, the port whence it is shipped to foreign parts. 
 
io6 DAILY LIFE ON THE PAMPA. 
 
 Don Fernando Lopez, who is part owner of the 
 establishment, manages its working. His life in this 
 desert region is solaced by the society of his wife, 
 her sisters, and their mother, otherwise life in the 
 intervals of " work " would be dull indeed on the 
 pampa, with its very limited sources of amusement 
 or distraction. The men are, perhaps, least to be 
 pitied, for their day is rilled up in the performance of 
 their various duties ; but most English ladies of the 
 writer's acquaintance would speedily grow weary of 
 such a life as that led by Signora Lopez and her sisters. 
 The limits of pampa society are narrow indeed. 
 When the writer took up his residence for a time 
 with Senor Lopez, there were no other ladies residing 
 within reach, and the domestic day wore itself away 
 in the following fashion. Early rising is the custom, 
 coffee and biscuits are partaken of, say at seven, in 
 the long refectory ; then, sometimes but not often, comes 
 a short walk or ride on the pampa more often the 
 ladies beat a precipitate retreat into their private 
 apartments, out of which they do not reappear till 
 towards eleven o'clock, the breakfast-hour. At this 
 meal, the head employes at the fabrique are seated 
 at the lower end of the table "below the salt," in 
 the order of rank according with their respective 
 functions. After this, the least pleasant part of a 
 South American day has to be got over, or through. 
 Those who have leisure wear through the hot hours 
 in a siesta, taken in the gently swinging hammock ; in 
 
TRAVELLERS. 107 
 
 reading or writing ; those who have not such leisure 
 to spare well, they work on as well as may be under 
 the discomforts of an oppressive climate, with the 
 thermometer at ninety-two or more. By the aid of 
 reading, working, etc., the ladies of Nueva Carolina 
 manage to kill time, in the companionship of each other, 
 until the dinner-hour at five. The evening is passed 
 in playing games of cards or chess, varied with con- 
 versation and music. Sometimes, but seldom, a guest's 
 arrival may vary the even tenour of this life. These 
 are generally travellers on their way to Tarapaca, or 
 to \hefabriques in the north ; but known or unknown, 
 they are always sure of meeting with hearty hospi- 
 tality from the owner of Nueva Carolina. And rightly 
 so ; for should not strangers always be welcomed in 
 such remote places ? They may turn into friends ; and 
 what is life worth after all, if it is to be passed alone, 
 separated from the companionship of those of our 
 own kind, from the fellow-creatures from whose con- 
 genial society we draw our chief enjoyment, chequered 
 though it may be like all earthly joys, by the bitter 
 pangs of sorrow ? It is true, there are those who, 
 disgusted with their experience of the world, resort 
 to seclusion as a panacea for their disappointments, 
 and seem to prefer the meditations of their own 
 minds to contributing anything to the whirlwind of 
 thought, which is day by day wreathing a new girdle 
 round the globe, and urging the human race on the 
 road to improvement. 
 
io8 SECLUSION VERSUS SOCIETY. 
 
 This seclusion is encouraged by the teachings of 
 Rome, which perhaps found it an easy way of occupy- 
 ing turbulent spirits, by setting them to feed on 
 themselves instead of hatching conspiracies which 
 might prove inconvenient and difficult to manage. 
 
 " Millstones and the human heart are driven ever round and 
 
 round ; 
 
 If they have nothing else to grind, they must themselves be 
 ground." 
 
 Unless the hermit carry with him a rich store of corn, 
 gathered among men, to be ground or distilled into 
 a form which may be handed down for the benefit of 
 posterity, it is surely but a form of selfishness, after 
 all, to ignore the instincts of humanity which would 
 lead us to help each other, rather than devote our 
 energies to personal gratification of the momentary 
 whim. Surely it is flying in the face of that natural 
 instinct which makes us all, rich and poor, small and 
 great, dependent in some sort for our well-being on 
 the daily co-operation each of the other. 
 
 In the middle of this desert, life is of necessity 
 carried on under the simplest of simple rules. Nueva 
 Carolina is like "the shadow of a great rock in a 
 thirsty land ; " but yet it is not without a natural 
 beauty of its own. " Barren and ugly as the country 
 is," said Senor Lopez frequently to the writer, " I love 
 it as the country of my adoption and as the place 
 where I found my wife and formed my home." 
 Lopez is by birth a Chilian, who, beginning life as a 
 
SENOR LOPEZ. 109 
 
 clerk in the thriving town of Iquique, soon rose by 
 dint of his talents and energy to the position of one 
 of the leading merchants in the province. He received 
 a merchant's education at Valparaiso, and is well 
 read in classics as well as in the history of his own 
 race and contemporary events. He converses fluently 
 both in English and French ; but unlike the majority 
 of his countrymen, shows no great longing to visit the 
 Old World, and see for himself the great cities of 
 Europe, and the manners and customs of the dwellers 
 in the crowded squares and thoroughfares of the Old 
 World. " I have read of them," he says, " and that 
 suffices. I should feel bored to death gazing at the 
 lions in Trafalgar Square, or at the palaces of the 
 Rue de Rivoli. In London or Paris I should find no 
 friends with whom to associate, no interests to attract 
 me. Leave me my home on the pampa and its 
 simple life, and constant occupation, and I will gladly 
 leave to others the privileged entree into European 
 society, however grand and luxurious it may be." 
 In short, Senor Lopez prefers being king in his own 
 little court to being a unit in the crowd of strangers. 
 Every one to their taste ; and after all, is it not the 
 true secret of a happy life to be in harmony with 
 one's surroundings ? 
 
 After a time came an addition to this pampa 
 society, by the arrival of a Scotch family, who came 
 to reside at " La Palma," an adjoining factory recently 
 established by some merchants at Leith. An iron 
 
no ROMANIST VERSUS PROTESTANT. 
 
 house, sent out from Scotland in pieces, had been 
 erected for their accommodation on the rising ground 
 of their property, in front of the factory, which was at 
 that time in process of construction. This iron house 
 could be seen from a long distance, and served as 
 a landmark for many tired travellers crossing the 
 pampa, many of whom have reason gratefully to 
 remember the generous hospitality of its master, Mr. 
 John Moir, manager of La Palma. He had brought 
 with him to these wilds his newly married wife and 
 an infant child, to lead a life which, by reason of its 
 nearly complete isolation from all society of her own 
 sex, must surely signify an enviable depth of conjugal 
 devotion. 
 
 Viewing the life led in these wastes, we are bound 
 to recognize, with a sigh, the advantage possessed by 
 Spanish Catholic women over their Protestant sister- 
 hood. The strict seclusion and monastic training of 
 their early youth enable them to view with resigna- 
 tion a home in the sterile desert, and to feel less 
 acutely the want of friends of their own sex. Such 
 a life in the case of a Protestant Englishwoman, 
 accustomed to greater freedom of intercourse with 
 her kind, implies a series of self-denials which must 
 rob her life of much of its natural happiness, unless 
 her home interests are strong and deep enough to 
 compensate for the want of everything else. The 
 Peruvian, on the other hand, reared under the strict 
 regime of the Catholic Church, makes herself con- 
 
SELF-CONTAINED LIFE. in 
 
 tented anywhere. Does she not, here as elsewhere, 
 look on the ritual of the Church as the light which 
 guides her footsteps? Religion is to her a familiar 
 friend, as sincere and encouraging on the desert as in 
 the crowded city. Her constancy in religious observ- 
 ances keeps pace with that of the Mussulman. At 
 every step something reminds her of her faith, from 
 the ivory crucifix in her room to the names of the 
 surrounding hills, which the Spanish settlers named 
 after their patron saints. Thus in the desert, where 
 there are no convents or churches, the Roman Catholic 
 woman appears to be strengthened by the constant 
 occupation brought by her numerous religious observ- 
 ances ; while the Protestant one, deprived of these 
 landmarks, too often surrenders herself a prey to lone- 
 liness and indolence. This, of course, does not apply 
 to women of strong character, whose religion, being 
 a part of themselves, is not dependent solely on out- 
 ward observances, but teaches them to find or make 
 cheerful occupation for themselves, even in the desert. 
 Not far out in the pampa, only some six miles 
 distant from Nueva Carolina, the small village of 
 Tirana has sprung again into prominent notice, 
 through the building of a church, subscriptions for 
 which were collected in the province. Tirana was 
 well known in former times as a smelting ground for 
 the silver ores yielded by the adjacent mines, and 
 straggling rows of deserted adobe huts testify to the 
 considerable population once contained in the desert 
 
H2 TIRANA. 
 
 town. The algarova forests, the remnants of which 
 still exist, and the inexhaustible supply of fresh water 
 lying at a shallow depth beneath the surface, induced 
 the Spaniards to make this a smelting station for the 
 crude silver ores of Huantaya, a specimen of which, 
 showing their richness, maybe seen in the museum at 
 Madrid. One of these smelteries still remains, and is 
 actively worked by its owner, an elderly spinster lady, 
 who still makes use of the primitive " rocking-stone 
 and bar " for crushing the ores. 
 
 The church consists of a light framework of wood, 
 on which are fastened sheets of corrugated iron. 
 Two small belfries on either side of the entrance 
 give the structure a neat and suitable appearance. 
 The building is certainly large enough to accommodate 
 the Tiranians, some hundred souls ; but it is expected 
 that the congregation may be increased by the 
 nitrate refiners, who may not object to riding a few 
 miles to church. 
 
 The algarova tree prospers at Tirana, and in the 
 adjacent woods we saw some measuring ten feet in 
 circumference at the base, and which could not have 
 been less than fifty feet in height. Their foliage 
 offers a delightful shade to travellers at all seasons, 
 indeed Tirana is an oasis in this desert, and serves 
 as a resting-station between the nitrate fields and 
 the baths of Pica, which lie at the foot of the 
 Cordillera. It is here that the Bolivian emigrants 
 encamp, when on their way from Cochabamba to 
 
BOLIVIANS. 113 
 
 seek .employment at the fabriques. These emigrants 
 are the gipsies of Southern Peru, and they supply a 
 large portion of the labour requisite for the produc- 
 tion of nitrate. They are a strong, hardy, and not 
 unhandsome race. Great numbers annually cross the 
 Andes, taking with them their wives and children, 
 and after a wearisome journey on foot, extending 
 sometimes to a length of three hundred miles, they 
 offer themselves for hire at the nitrate establishments. 
 Their pay is about two dollars a day good wages 
 as compared with their class of labourers in England 
 and they are housed by their employers in rough 
 tents made of coarse sail-cloth, supported by poles 
 of all sorts and sizes. Every fabrique of any con- 
 sequence owns one or more of these Bolivian 
 encampments, the inhabitants of which, without 
 exception, present the most ragged and miserable 
 appearance of anything of the kind to be seen 
 anywhere else. The camp is usually built on the 
 bare plain, and the Bolivians, who have to cut out 
 their own tents from the rolls of canvas provided 
 by their employers, shape them to suit their own 
 somewhat eccentric notions of comfort and style. 
 There is some resemblance to be traced more or less 
 in the habits and doings of all tent-dwellers, how- 
 ever far from each other the countries may lie in 
 which their canvas is spread. The uncouth ap- 
 pearance and frosty atmosphere of the interior of 
 the Kurdish tent at the foot of Mount Ararat has 
 
 I 
 
ii4 WILD DOGS. 
 
 been made familiar by the accounts of many travellers ; 
 and Captain Burnaby has graphically described the 
 domestic horrors of the Khivan in his home on the 
 Steppe, and the atrocities committed therein. Con- 
 ceive the worst of both united and some notion 
 may be formed of the wretched appearance of the 
 Bolivian's home on the pampa. A few old sacks, 
 too old and rotten to be used again for nitrate, are 
 spread on the sandy floor of their tent, and serve 
 alternately as dinner-table and bedding. A pack 
 of wolfish, starving dogs of mongrel breed prowl or 
 lie about the tents, only moved to activity by the 
 sight of a traveller, who is welcomed with angry 
 growls and a sortie en masse of the town garrison. 
 Often they exhibit their wolfish nature by attacking 
 stray mules and horses, which fall an easy prey to 
 their ferocious appetites. Yet, notwithstanding these 
 unsavoury surroundings, the Bolivian nomad appears 
 contented with his lot. In the matter of climate, he 
 is better off than his contemporary in Asia ; and a 
 steady worker may look to returning home after a 
 year's absence, the better by one or two hundred 
 dollars. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PICA AND TARAPACA. 
 
 Route to Pica Cultivation Rich Soil Desert Travelling 
 Matilla Pica Baths of Pica Bolivian Gipsies Pica 
 Wine Life at Pica Tarapaca Dona Martinez Con- 
 tentment. 
 
 WE may now leave Tirana, and continue our journey 
 to the baths of Pica, in response to kind invitations 
 to visit that much-esteemed spot. The topography 
 of the country continues much the same. As before, 
 the same level plain spreads in front, broken here and 
 there by patches of poor, parched-looking trees. But 
 the loose sand we had traversed in approaching Tirana 
 from Nueva Carolina is now replaced by a hard 
 coating of lime and sand, which renders our horses' 
 progress difficult, by affording such hard and uneven 
 footing. A few miles further on, the ground is thickly 
 covered with low brushwood, till on arriving at the 
 district known as " Canchones," we are welcomed by 
 the signs of extensive cultivation. Agriculture is here 
 carried on under a somewhat singular system, but one 
 
ii6 CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL. 
 
 which was formerly extensively employed by the Incas 
 and their Spanish successors. 
 
 On removing the upper crust of hardened earth, a 
 rich alluvial soil is found at a depth of about four feet 
 from the surface. In this a trench is dug about fifty 
 feet wide and several hundred feet in length. These 
 trenches or canchoHes give the name to the district, 
 and the capillary attraction characterizing the alfafa 
 (lucern), maize, and other plants, enables them to suck 
 up moisture through the several feet of soil intervening 
 between the bottom of the trench and the subsoil 
 water beneath. The success attending this first 
 attempt at cultivation in this part of the pampa 
 induced the government to establish an agency, with 
 the power of allotting plots of land to settlers, who 
 are encouraged by being offered the farms on easy 
 terms. At present the mining population of the 
 pampa, as well as the residents in Iquique, depend for 
 their supply of vegetables partly on Tacna, a valley 
 some forty miles to the north, and partly on the 
 Republic of Chili ; so if vegetables and grain were 
 well cultivated at Canchofies, they would find a good 
 market for their produce within easy distance. In 
 this place, water is reached at a depth of twelve feet 
 from the surface, and this, with the rich bed of black 
 alluvial soil, offers great advantages to the intending 
 settler and encourages the hope that at no distant 
 date this district may be under cultivation. 
 
 The earth which is dug out of the trenches is 
 
WA TER-S UP PL Y. 117 
 
 thrown up on each side, and thus serves as additional 
 shelter to the plant from the violent and often cold 
 winds which sweep across the pampa in the afternoon. 
 At the time of our visit, the government agent was 
 busy in erecting a pump, to be worked by a windmill, 
 with a view of utilizing the wind in raising water for 
 irrigation purposes. The supply of water is prac- 
 tically inexhaustible ; for in fact the pampa covers a 
 subterranean reservoir, fed from the rainy districts of 
 the Cordillera, the rainfall filtering through the porous 
 strata which intervenes. 
 
 Leaving Canchofies, with its refreshing glimpse of 
 verdant nature, we again plunged into a weary sea of 
 deep sand, the heat made well-nigh intolerable by a 
 hot glowing sun overhead. At every step the horses' 
 feet sank deeply into the yielding surface, and their 
 slackening pace and evident signs of fatigue made 
 their riders cast longing eyes towards the black speck, 
 visible on the face of the distant yellow mountain in 
 front, which indicated the buildings of Matilla, the 
 first village we should reach. This black speck was 
 the only relief to the eye afforded by the ocean of 
 sand spreading before our view. The heat was intense 
 and the distressed horses seldom moved out of the 
 walking pace they had fallen into on entering the 
 desert. For ten long miles this exhausting tramp 
 continued, and then, as we ascended the mountain 
 slope, the ground became harder. On nearing Matilla, 
 fresh signs of cultivation became visible, and with 
 
Ii8 MATILLA. 
 
 common accord we made our way to the brook which 
 skirts the village on the south, and refreshed our- 
 selves and cattle with its delicious water. 
 
 Matilla lies at the foot of the ravine of Chintaguay, 
 which is irrigated from springs situated higher up the 
 valley. A fair-sized brook wends its way along the 
 bottom of the valley, watering the fields of maize and 
 the vine trees on either bank. After passing Matilla, 
 the stream becomes absorbed in the dry thirsty pampa 
 within a very short distance. The inhabitants of 
 Matilla support themselves by cultivating the usual 
 products of the country, and by working the silver 
 and lead mines in the neighbourhood, some of which 
 are reported to be very rich. The place is also much 
 frequented by the nitrate manufacturers, who go there 
 to bathe and enjoy the glimpse of verdure it affords, 
 so doubly refreshing after a long spell of pampa 
 barrenness. 
 
 When we had seen all that was considered worth 
 seeing, we pricked on to Pica, resting on the way at a 
 perquio or farm, belonging to a nice homely widow who 
 treated us with great hospitality. We were received 
 in a well-furnished room, opening at one side on a 
 vinery, and the adornments showed much taste and 
 an appreciation of comfort very unusual in these 
 distant parts. 
 
 Several similar "farms," mere green patches on 
 the broad expanse of yellow sand, are scattered along 
 the hillside hereabouts. They are kept alive by the 
 
PICA. 119 
 
 rainfall of the Cordillera, which, percolating through 
 porous strata, empties itself into the natural reservoir 
 beneath the surface of the pampa. These under- 
 ground currents are intercepted at Pica by driving 
 horizontal tunnels into the soft yellow sandstone of 
 which the hill-slope is here composed. These tunnels 
 are sometimes of considerable length, and their drain- 
 age area is augmented by making driftways to the 
 right and left, the water being ultimately collected 
 into a basin built at the outfall of the works. 
 
 Pica itself is a small native village, boasting of 
 some three or four hundred inhabitants, who both in 
 appearance and habits betray their nearly pure Indian 
 origin. A principal tunnel, driven on the line of a 
 natural hollow in the hill-slope, pours the water into 
 two large basins, from which it is drawn to irrigate 
 the adjacent chacras. The entire cultivated area is 
 encircled by a thick ha-ha of chilka shrub. Within 
 this enclosure, the space is green with beds of alfafa 
 and maize ; these are overhung with vines trained on 
 light wooden frames. At the time of our visit, they 
 were covered with rich black and white grapes. 
 Each plot is bordered with luxuriant granadilla, fig 
 and orange trees, their green and yellow fruit glisten- 
 ing between the dark foliage. Here and there the 
 imperial azalea spreads its branches far and wide, 
 heavy with bright crimson blossoms ; while beds of 
 violets, primroses, and sunflowers testify to the natural 
 taste of the cultivators. Thus the chacra is a lovely 
 
120 BATHS OF PICA. 
 
 spot, rendered all the more attractive by the forbidding 
 aspect of the sterile sand on the other side of the 
 hedge. 
 
 The water at these springs is pure and sweet, as it 
 issues from the soft sandstone through which it has 
 filtered and which has served as its carrier from the 
 distant heights. The basins are two in number and 
 are excavated out of the solid rock, the first being 
 some feet higher than the second, owing to the natural 
 slope of the ground ; and a sluice is placed in the par- 
 tition which divides them, by means of which the 
 water-level can be regulated to that of the higher and 
 lower plantations. The Picanians come to bathe in 
 the water in the early morning, at which time the 
 balmy air, the luxuriant tropical foliage, and the 
 delicious water combine to enhance the delights of 
 this charming oasis. The water, when it issues from 
 the rock, is of moderate temperature ; thus the sense 
 of touch is soothed by it, as the sight is by the bright 
 tropical flowers, and a tranquillizing air of repose 
 characterizes the spot. Picanians make the baths 
 a morning rendezvous, where they discuss local 
 gossips and chacra scandal, with such rare items of 
 news as may occasionally flit across the pampa from 
 the great outside world. It was pleasant to note 
 the good manners which prevailed in these aquatic 
 gatherings, in which both sexes take their " dip " in 
 company, the ladies appearing on the scene ready 
 prepared for the water, dressed in the bata y or morn- 
 
DOLCE FAR NIENTE. 121 
 
 ing-gown of black serge. Nothing occurred at the 
 baths which would have been thought unbecoming on 
 the plage at Dieppe, Brighton, or Toulouse. 
 
 Visitors to Pica spend the day in the chacras 
 under the shade of the vine groves, listening to the 
 songs of the birds, and enjoying the verdure, which 
 they miss in their homes on the pampa or at Iquique. 
 With few exceptions, the houses do not offer much 
 accommodation ; but then the climate is so mild that 
 people prefer living out of doors, and the shady cool- 
 ness of the verandah is more thought of than Turkey 
 carpets and damask-covered chairs. It is a life in 
 which artificial luxuries are unknown, but at the same 
 time it is an existence so natural and enjoyable, that 
 what are thought necessities elsewhere would here be 
 looked on more in the light of nuisances. 
 
 Apart from its character as a " spa," Pica is used, 
 like Tirana, as a resting-station by the Bolivians on 
 their way to the nitrate fields. The camping-ground 
 set apart for them is a stone's throw from the village, 
 on the hillside facing north. A row of ragged tents 
 made of sail-cloth forms the accommodation offered to 
 the travellers, who in return become good customers 
 to the Picanians in the article of vegetables and other 
 provisions. As aforesaid, the Bolivian needs little to 
 make him happy. The men are short and square- 
 built, with strong arms and legs ; straightforward 
 enough in their dealings but not over-ready to learn 
 unaccustomed duties. Their features are thick-set 
 
122 THE BOLIVIANS. 
 
 and heavy, much resembling the Tartar physiognomy ; 
 and while chin and cheeks are nearly bare, a thick 
 shock of dark or black hair covers the head and fore- 
 head, and reaches below the ears. The women are 
 but modified copies of the men, and, judging by the 
 hard day's work they perform in tramping across the 
 desert, laden with a baby slung on the back, then 
 pitching the tents and cooking the food, they cannot 
 be far behind the sterner sex in physical strength. 
 Indeed, their physique must be extrordinary, for many 
 have been known to give birth to an infant during 
 the day's march, without causing a stoppage of more 
 than an hour or so in all. They exemplify the lines 
 
 " Here down beneath the dusty trees, 
 At this lank edge of haggard wood, 
 Women with labour-loosened knees, 
 With gaunt backs bowed by servitude, 
 Stop, shift their loads, and pray, and fare 
 Forth with souls easier for the prayer." 
 
 An excellent wine is produced from the Pica 
 grape, the cultivation of which is particularly favoured 
 by the soil and climate. This wine, when new, pos- 
 sesses a peculiarly sweet and rich flavour. It is darker 
 in colour than the darkest Madeira. Like most wine, 
 it improves by keeping, and some was given us which 
 had been in bottle ten years. All pronounced it ex- 
 ceedingly good. Its high reputation has led to its 
 being sent to Lima, where it is much appreciated by 
 the connoisseurs of the capital. 
 
LOCAL ATTACHMENT. 123 
 
 The Picanians, who are more Indian than Spanish, 
 are taller than their countrymen of the sea-coast, 
 but they are less stalwart and strong. They 
 cultivate their chacras with great industry, and 
 possess that strong attachment to their native village 
 which is observable throughout Peru, in town and 
 country alike. Chiclayo is the one earthly paradise 
 of the Chiclayano ; and the conditions of life at Pica 
 are not to be improved upon, in the mind of the 
 Picanian. " When you come to Chiclayo, I will take 
 you round our Plaza, and show you our grand 
 cathedral ; and then I will present you to our bonitas 
 mozas " (pretty girls), says the one. " If you will only 
 visit Pica, I will take you to my chacra, and give you 
 such fruit and such good rich wine ; and in the 
 morning we will all go together to the baths," tempt- 
 ingly urges the Picanian. Is not the well-known 
 saying, " Vedi Napoli, e poi mori," a case in point ? 
 The Picanian is one of a simple, happy group of 
 villagers, who rely fearlessly on their industry and the 
 fertility of their soil to satisfy their small requirements. 
 In this serene atmosphere, the seasons never overstep 
 the mild variations which mark their periods, and the 
 seed sown in winter yields its crops in summer as 
 regularly as the sun reaches the meridian at noon. 
 But little is known of what happens in the big world 
 " beyond the pampa," and the life of the Picanian 
 creeps on from days to years, he being apparently 
 as little concerned with events which may transpire 
 
124 THE QUEVRADAS. 
 
 outside his district, as the events are capable of 
 disturbing his repose. 
 
 The foot of the Cordillera, which forms the eastern 
 boundary of Tamarugal Pampa, is crossed at intervals 
 by ravines, some of which are but mere ruts in the 
 hillside, providing a water-way for a streamlet dis- 
 charged from springs above, while others are deep 
 gorges, piercing far into the heart of the mountain, 
 whose water-worn sides show unmistakable traces of 
 the course taken by prehistoric rivers. Such a one 
 is the quevrada^ or ravine of Tarapaca, in which lies, 
 about two leagues' distance from its mouth, the "city" 
 of Tarapaca, the former capital of the province 
 of that name. The entrance to the ravine is about 
 ten leagues north of Pica ; and for a space of six miles 
 in front, the pampa is strewn with masses of boulders 
 of all shapes and sizes, through which a deep gully 
 marks the course formerly traversed by the river. 
 The sides of the quevrada are lined with compact beds 
 of water-rolled stones separated by layers of sand, 
 marking the order in which they were successively 
 deposited. The uppermost of these beds is raised 
 more than a hundred feet above the bottom of the 
 valley along which we rode, beside the stream which 
 unlike those of temperate climes increases in bulk 
 the nearer we approach its source. The ravine was 
 evidently once the channel of a mighty stream, which 
 rolling from the mountain heights, watered the 
 extensive pastures and woodlands of the great 
 
TARAPACA. 125 
 
 Tamarugal plain. The record of this is clearly 
 written on its water-worn sides, in which the channels 
 can be traced, and in the layers of gravel and sand 
 lying one over the other, as well as on the broad sheet 
 of boulders spreading over several square miles at 
 the mouth of the quevrada. This plain also shows 
 evidence of the luxuriant vegetation which must once 
 have clothed it, in the roots of algarova and other 
 trees, still to be dug up in all directions in the bed of 
 rich black soil which still remains. 
 
 Tarapaca has nestled itself in a bend of the ravine, 
 at a point three miles from its mouth, where its sides 
 separate, leaving between them a tolerably broad 
 level space, on which now grows maize and other 
 plants similar to those cultivated at Pica. The in- 
 habitants of the town and its outskirts number some 
 two thousand, all told, and are lodged in houses built 
 after the same pattern and with the same materials 
 as those in northern Peru. A small square forms the 
 centre of the town. On one side is the church, sur- 
 mounted by a single belfry ; the other sides consist of 
 shops and dwelling-houses, with verandahs in front. 
 
 We were hospitably entertained by Dona Teresa 
 Martinez, who owned the best house in the square, 
 where she lived with a nephew and niece. 
 
 The latter, being a native of Arequipa, was wont 
 to dilate at length on the beauty and wealth of her 
 native town, and the stirring incidents in its frequent 
 revolutions, also the yet more fearful ravages made 
 
126 DONA TERESA. 
 
 by earthquakes. Neither these nor the display of 
 revolutionary passions appeared to have diminished 
 her fondness for the place ; and her powers of con- 
 versation were as great as they were varied. After 
 the story had been told of cruel bloodshed and heart- 
 less pillage of gold and silver in troublous times, she 
 would take her guitar, and charm her listeners with 
 songs of love and romance, which sound doubly 
 touching in the beautiful language of Castile. Her 
 aunt, Dona Teresa, was a worthy example of the noble- 
 hearted elderly matron, a type of humanity which it 
 is always a pleasure to meet. Though past eighty 
 years of age, she rose at five every morning, and after 
 partaking of mat^ (a substitute for tea), would usually 
 ride to her chacra, which lies about a mile further 
 down the valley. Her intellect was clear and quick, 
 and she took a lively part in all conversation, show- 
 ing much knowledge of many subjects, some of which 
 one might have supposed could scarcely have come 
 within range of her experience, passed as the greater 
 portion of her life had been in this secluded nook. 
 She kept the accounts of her estate incidentally it 
 appeared, if one may judge from the standpoint taken 
 by her nephew, that she was " close " in financial 
 matters. 
 
 It may be remarked that thrifty habits are general 
 in these out-of-the way places as indeed everywhere 
 where the absence of public investments and banks 
 foster the instinct of hoarding. Profits made at 
 
HABITS AND CUSTOMS. 127 
 
 Tarapaca, either by the agriculturist or the merchant, 
 can only be disposed of in two ways, either in 
 purchasing more land or stock, or by being buried 
 in the ground, and handed down thus to posterity, a 
 barren heirloom. Those who have already as much 
 income as they require, prefer the latter alternative as 
 the least troublesome ; and the name of those who 
 hoard their savings in stockings, in Peru, is legion. 
 
 In all Peruvian towns, the habits and customs of 
 the inhabitants are very much the same. Society is 
 represented by the alcalde (mayor), the principal 
 merchants and landowners, and their families, who 
 frequently meet at social reunions, and amuse them- 
 selves in the ways already described. One distinctive 
 feature to be remarked among all classes, is that 
 however rich a man may be, he almost invariably 
 manages his own affairs, instead of employing a 
 deputy or steward. Thus, the owner of land farms it 
 himself the complicated system prevailing in Eng- 
 land, and the class of tenantry resulting therefrom, do 
 not exist in Peru ; the merchant sells his own articles, 
 and keeps his own store. So one of the great 
 characteristics of our own race, this incessant striving 
 to rise above the class into which we were born, and 
 despising the work which our fathers cheerfully ful- 
 filled, which in this nineteenth century so often 
 results in debt and difficulty, is unknown there. The 
 Peruvian takes life more easily, and is content to fill 
 his own niche in life without striving to enlarge it. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE NORTH AGAIN. 
 
 The Haciendas Pumalca Parrots El Combo Cleaning the 
 Water-courses Combo The Jesuits Patapo Native 
 Sugar-mills Sugar-making The Coolies The Coolie 
 Question Native Labour Government Inspection. 
 
 ONCE again we find ourselves amidst our old friends in 
 the north, and perhaps some account of the haciendas 
 in that part of the country may be interesting. In 
 July, 1873, the writer made an expedition, or paseo, 
 towards Sana, in company with Senor Isaga, the 
 owner of Percala, and M. Legrandt, a native of 
 Alsace. Saiia is a town said to have been founded 
 by the Incas. 
 
 Crossing the Plaza early one morning, mounted on 
 sturdy ambling nags, the party passed over the 
 timber bridge which spans the acequia of Chiclayo, 
 after passing the rice-mill which works for Santa 
 Lucia, and proceeded in an easterly direction towards 
 Combo, an estate belonging to Senor Arbulu, sous- 
 prefet of the province. The road is but a bridle-path 
 
THE HACIENDAS. 129 
 
 cut through the chilka, or brushwood, and the roots, 
 which are in many places left protruding from the 
 ground, often cause the fall of a careless or badly 
 mounted rider. The light alluvial soil, worn to 
 powder by years of constant traffic, rises in clouds at 
 each step of the cavalcade, testing the usefulness of 
 the poncho a large square shawl with a hole in its 
 centre to allow of its being passed over the head ; the 
 drapery then falls in folds over the body, coming below 
 the saddle, and thus completely protecting the rider 
 from the clouds of dust through which he is passing. 
 The broad-brimmed sombrero guards the head from 
 the direct heat of the sun, whose rays pour down in 
 burning heat as he approaches the zenith. 
 
 After about half an hour's ride, we passed the 
 buildings of Pumalca on the left ; these, we were 
 told, would cease to be used when the new factory 
 was finished which was then being constructed three 
 miles further on, in a more central part of the estate. 
 On reaching the new site, we made a short halt to 
 observe the buildings rising from the ground under 
 the hands of numerous workmen. As in the plan- 
 ning of towns so in haciendas, the quadrangular 
 model is followed and to each building is allotted a 
 square open space. The walls, both of factory and 
 dwelling-house, are built of adobes, which are laid in 
 a mortar consisting chiefly of wet mud. When 
 finished, the outside will be washed over with lime ; 
 the dryness of the climate and total absence of 
 
 K 
 
130 ALGAROVA TREES. 
 
 rainfall render it possible for this kind of building to 
 last much longer than might be expected. 
 
 The algarova tree, which grows plentifully in the 
 neighbourhood, furnishes rafters for the roof. The 
 algarova, a species of carob, is, as it has been observed 
 before, one of the most valuable indigenous trees 
 of the country, under the special conditions of whose 
 climate it finds the moisture which its leaves absorb 
 from the night atmosphere, sufficient for its sub- 
 sistence. In form, it is not unlike the English apple 
 tree. It sometimes reaches a height of forty feet, 
 but is usually shrunk and dwarfish in appearance, 
 with crooked arms and branches spreading from its 
 trunk like the arms of an octopus. It is an ever- 
 green, and its succulent leaves are round in shape, 
 rough to the touch when baked by the noonday 
 sun, but if touched in the evening when the air 
 is full of moisture, smooth and porous. The fruit 
 comes in April, and even in the most sterile and 
 parched-looking soil, a rich crop of tares may be 
 expected ; these provide food for horses and mules, by 
 which they are greedily devoured. The tare is a bean 
 sometimes six inches long, holding several seeds ; 
 when ripe it is yellow, or dark brown in places where 
 it is toasted by the sun. The quantity of saccharine 
 matter it contains makes it a favourite food with 
 cattle, and even dogs gather under the tree to feed on 
 its fruit when the shedding season arrives. The wood 
 is of a mahogany colour, and very hard to cut ; its 
 
PUMALCA. 131 
 
 cleavage being distorted, the crooked and knotted 
 branches are used chiefly in fences and for rafters to 
 roofs. As this wood retains its resinous properties 
 after years of exposure to the weather, and will take 
 a good polish, it is employed largely in machine- 
 making. Among other purposes it is greatly in 
 request for piston-rod bearers in steam-engines. At 
 Pumalca, and on the high ground of Combo, and 
 indeed generally where the land is too elevated to 
 permit of its irrigation, forests of this tree occur, re- 
 presenting an abundant and cheap supply of fuel for 
 the inhabitants of the towns, and for the working of 
 the sugar-mills. 
 
 Before leaving Pumalca, our attention was drawn 
 to a huge mound, some five hundred yards in length 
 and sixty yards in height, which was looked upon by 
 many as a huaca, or Inca tumulus. 
 
 Past Pumalca, the road winds through a part of 
 the forest just named, which is destined shortly to be 
 cut down, and the clearing planted with canes or 
 sown with corn. All the woods in the neighbourhood 
 of grain-sown land are well stocked with the beauti- 
 ful birds indigenous to Peru. Flocks of pigeons are 
 seen flying above the tree-tops, hurrying on their way 
 to some neighbouring cornfield ; while parrots with 
 brilliant plumage chatter among the boughs, as if in 
 consultation before attempting another raid on the 
 maize. The largest of the parrot tribe (Conurus 
 tutmdtuosus) is green all over, except his head, which is 
 
132 PARROTS. 
 
 scarlet, and a few red feathers growing on his breast ; 
 another (Conurus rupicola] is smaller in size and has 
 more red in his plumage. The third (Conurus sitophaga) 
 is bright green on the back, its wings being fringed with 
 blue, and the breast and forehead of a deep yellow 
 colour. They are all very good eating, a fact of which 
 the writer became aware in a somewhat unexpected 
 manner. Having commissioned a sportsman of 
 local celebrity to bring him some of the best specimens, 
 with a view to having them stuffed, he found on 
 returning home in the evening, the " bag " duly spread 
 on the kitchen-table, but plucked and ready for 
 cooking ! So the stuffing was of a more transitory 
 nature than he had intended, the sole result being a 
 very savoury supper. 
 
 Another common bird is El Carpentero, or "the 
 carpenter," a kind of woodpecker, so-called from the 
 hammering noise he makes by rapping his bill against 
 the trunks of trees, to drive out the insects on which 
 he feeds. He is a pretty constant companion to the 
 traveller about here. His body is black, the breast 
 patched with white. Another, the Saca-ta-real (" draw 
 out your real"), the brown fly-king, deep red all over 
 except the wings and back of very dark brown, 
 whirls in the air, repeating his extortionate summons. 
 These are but a few among the beautiful birds to be 
 seen exulting in their liberty in this, to them, Elysian 
 climate. 
 
 Emerging at last from the forest, our path wound 
 
EL COMBO. 133 
 
 round the base of a cone-shaped hill, called El Combo, 
 standing isolated on the level plain. Its apex, some 
 four hundred feet in height, is crowned by the wooden 
 cross which is so often placed in a prominent position 
 in Catholic countries, as if to take advantage of the 
 moment when the mind is elevated by the beauties of 
 Nature to direct it "through Nature up to Nature's 
 God," and remind us of the God-Man, our great 
 Exemplar. 
 
 Skirting the volcanic cone, the tapia, or exterior 
 mud-wall, of the Hacienda del Combo is shortly 
 passed on the right, and the shelving ground denotes 
 that we are nearing the Rio de Lambayeque, at a 
 point where it is spanned by a bridge resting on 
 algarova piles. The banks here are steep, and the 
 rude bridge, measuring only one hundred and fifty 
 feet, provides a safe transit at all times, except when 
 the river level is raised above its platform by extra- 
 ordinary flushes, caused by heavy rainfalls in the 
 Sierra. Dense masses of cana brava, or wild cane, 
 line both sides of the river, and are apparently only 
 kept from joining by the rapidity of the current. The 
 quickness with which this plant spreads, and reappears 
 after being cut, entails a vast amount of labour on the 
 cultivators to prevent the flooding of their lands 
 through the choking-up of the river-bed. Sometimes 
 the only effectual method is to burn the canes, a course 
 always resorted to with reluctance, the wood being 
 of value for building purposes. 
 
134 CLEARING THE CANALS. 
 
 An ancient custom provides for the clearing of 
 the river and irrigation canals adjoining, at least once 
 during the year, by labour contributed from each 
 hacienda and small chacra, in numbers proportioned 
 to their size and to the quantity of water they re- 
 spectively consume. 
 
 At the appointed time, the peones assemble at the 
 head of the acequia of their district, and divide them- 
 selves into two bands, the first of which clears away 
 canes, rushes, and other tropical weeds, with the help of 
 long curved hatchets furnished to them. The task of the 
 second party, closely following in the rear of the first, 
 is to deepen and make even the banks of the water- 
 course. The whole party proceed with their work, 
 stimulated by the music of the drum and fife, the 
 strokes of axes and shovels keeping time with the 
 musicians. They work quickly and eagerly, naturally 
 anxious to get over unpaid work ; and it is indeed 
 surprising to watch with what speed a party of lim- 
 piadores (literally, cleaners) will descend a water- 
 course, clearing away all obstructions and leaving its 
 bed and sides clean and smooth as if newly cut 
 All the acequias, whether of ancient or modern con- 
 struction, are traced in irregular lines across the 
 country, thus taking advantage of the fact that, at 
 each bend of the stream, the water is forced to a 
 higher level on the off-bank than it would attain if 
 running in a straight line. This enables it to spread 
 itself over higher ground. 
 
THE JESUITS. 135 
 
 One short mile further, beyond the bridge, and we 
 pass the gates of the Hacienda del Combo to the 
 left. Combo is said formerly to have belonged to the 
 Society of Jesuits, being one of the many rich estates 
 held by that society before their persecution by the 
 Crown, which has ended in the expulsion of the order 
 from every South American state, with the exception 
 of Ecuador. In 1773, the King of Spain, urged by the 
 " Bull" of June 2ist in the same year, despatched an 
 order to the viceroys of his South American provinces, 
 directing them to arrest all the Jesuits simultaneously 
 in one night, and to ship them off to Spain, confiscating 
 their accumulated wealth. With regard to the con- 
 vent of San Pedro in Lima, this design was defeated 
 by the activity of the vicar-general in Lima. San 
 Pedro was known to contain enormous treasures, but 
 the vicar-general having received private intelligence 
 from his superior in Madrid by the same ship which 
 bore the king's despatch, when the viceroy's officers 
 knocked for admission at the convent door, they found 
 the brethren grouped in the hall en costiime de voyage, 
 with their baggage ready to embark, and of the trea- 
 sures not a trace to be found. Nor to this day has 
 any been discovered. 
 
 To give some idea of the enormous wealth once 
 possessed in South America by the Society of 
 Jesus, acknowledged as the most moral, but at the 
 same time the most covetous of religious orders, it 
 may be stated that when an edict of another King of 
 
136 THEIR RICHES. 
 
 Spain was passed in 1816, less than fifty years after 
 their expulsion, to re-establish them in their former 
 colleges, an inventory was made of what remained of 
 their former possessions, and it appeared that the value 
 of the haciendas available for restoration to the order 
 amounted to 4,000,000 dollars in Paraguay alone. 
 This represented the intrinsic value of estates on 
 which the Crown had realized as much as it was 
 possible to turn into money. A curious carrying out 
 of their precept, " Nolite possidere aurum neque argen- 
 tem, neque pecuniam in Zonis vestris" (St. Matt, 
 ch. x. ver. 9). 
 
 To return to the estate of Combo as it appears 
 now. For many years it has remained uncultivated. 
 At the period of our visit it was overgrown with alga- 
 rova trees and the thick brushwood which springs 
 up so quickly in this fertile soil when left to itself. 
 It had recently been purchased by M. M. Solff and 
 Co., the proprietors of Patapo, a sugar-factory lying 
 some six miles further in the interior, and justly 
 ranked as one of the most important sugar-plantations 
 in the country. 
 
 Less than an hour's ride brings us to the beginning 
 of the alamedO) or avenue, leading to Patapo. Lofty 
 poplar trees planted on each side of the roadway form 
 a delightful shade, while through the opening between 
 the trees the rider sees with admiration endless waves 
 of the bright sugar-cane, covering the earth as with 
 a golden fleece under the bright reflection of a 
 tropical sun. 
 
PATAPO. 137 
 
 On nearing the factory, we observe the details of 
 sugar-making on a large scale. Numerous two-mule 
 carts bring the freshly cut canes to the huge rollers 
 of the steam-mill, which will squeeze away the sweet 
 juice, leaving the cane crushed and dry, suitable for 
 firewood. At Patapo, the sugar is refined ; and the 
 machinery brought from Europe is in great perfection 
 and well managed by foreign hands, contrasting 
 favourably with the rude apparatus used by the 
 chacrareros, or small cultivators, of whom we shall see 
 more in these pages. 
 
 The native trapicke, or sugar-mill, is usually 
 worked by a yoke of oxen, which tramp monotonously 
 round and round. Large stones, or more usually a 
 piece of rock, serves to counterbalance the weight of 
 the collar-pole ; this gives circular rotation to the 
 centre roller, at a speed regulated by the pace of the 
 oxen. By means of tooth-gearing, the rollers on either 
 side are turned in contrary directions, and the narrow 
 open space between the stones serves for the crushing 
 of the cane, which is inserted by hand. The saccha- 
 rine liquid is drawn off into kettles ; after boiling 
 for six hours it is poured into moulds, and when 
 cooled, is thrown out as camchacha, or brown crystal- 
 lized blocks of sugar. With this simple machinery, a 
 small chacrero, boiling five kettles per day, will make 
 three blocks of sugar of two hundredweight each, 
 value about 2 per block. 
 
 The scarcity of labour throughout the valley has 
 
138 THE COOLIES. 
 
 forced the proprietors of Patapo to imitate their 
 neighbours in employing Chinese coolies. Don 
 Christian a partner in the firm, is manager of the 
 factory. 
 
 An outcry has lately been raised against the 
 alleged inhuman treatment which the Asiatic coolies 
 receive at the hands of their taskmasters in Peru, and 
 Mr. March, H.B.M.'s Consul at Callao, reported at 
 length to his government upon the traffic in 1876. 
 The writer's experience tallies with many of the 
 charges of cruelty advanced by Mr. March, and which 
 may be taken as based upon his own practical know- 
 ledge, or on reliable data. Yet the deductions to 
 be drawn from Mr. March's earlier reports scarcely 
 justify the allegations made by the London Examiner 
 (January 13, 1873) in an article entitled, "How 
 some People are killed," which among other reflections 
 contains this passage. " We have, then, to declare 
 that very much of the sugar which comes to this 
 country from Peru is the fruit of the labour of kid- 
 napped men ; of men who are kept in loathsome 
 isolation from all the sympathies which make human 
 life differ from that of the brute ; of men who for years 
 at a time never see the face of woman, who die of 
 despair, are killed by infernal cruelties, and left to rot 
 like carrion, and to become food for carrion birds. 
 This sugar we English Christians eat ; this sugar we 
 allow to compete with that produced by our own 
 planters ; and we think that no more anxiety to be 
 
REPORTS. 139 
 
 consistent in our belief of a political doctrine should 
 stand in the way of our putting a stop to that state 
 of things." 
 
 It is difficult to say whether this overdrawn 
 picture served to modify the treatment which the 
 contract coolie receives in Peru, yet it may have 
 evoked sympathy for his condition in the quarters 
 most likely to help him. " Efforts," writes Consul 
 March, " have been made by the Peruvian government 
 to afford protection to these people ; but, notwith- 
 standing, their condition, as a rule, is far from satis- 
 factory. In the first place, the isolation of some of 
 the haciendas is such that the coolie is entirely at the 
 mercy of the master. This master, or his overseer, 
 may be a conscientious and humane person, or he 
 may be the contrary. In the later case, if the coolie 
 runs away, he will either starve in the surrounding 
 wilderness, or which may be considered quite as 
 bad be recaptured and punished in a way which he 
 may not survive to tell." 
 
 The father of one of the writer's companions in 
 this expedition was killed by his own Chinamen in 
 an outburst of vindictive passion, when the coolies 
 conspired together to revenge the harsh treatment 
 they had received, and breaking into the house, beat 
 their master to death with their farm tools. This 
 was after long endurance ; for one of the punish- 
 ments this man had imposed on any coolie whom 
 he had caught in the act of escaping was to hobble 
 
HO TREATMENT OF THE COOLIES. 
 
 him with an iron chain, forcing him to work as usual 
 with this heavy weight added, until he considered his 
 punishment sufficient. For lighter offences he used to 
 beat them unmercifully, and curtail their rations to 
 starvation point. This went on till even the long- 
 suffering Chinaman's patience was exhausted, and, 
 rousing himself one morning, he avenged himself in 
 the summary fashion already related. 
 
 According to the writer's experience, the treatment 
 of the coolie depends almost entirely upon the dis- 
 position and character of the managers of the estate, 
 who, in many instances, are foreigners by birth, the 
 wealthier class of land proprietors preferring the com- 
 parative comfort of the provincial towns to the discom- 
 fort consequent on a residence in the monte. So 
 they gladly entrust the management of their property 
 to a mayordomo, for which situation Europeans are 
 thought best adapted, as they are found to be more com- 
 petent to exact obedience, and more fertile in resources 
 than their own easy-going countrymen. A crowd of 
 adventurers of all nationalities, coming from true 
 United States and Europe, are attracted to Peru by 
 the golden pictures so freely circulated of its wealth ; 
 and both honest and unscrupulous scramble into places 
 of trust apparently with equal facility. An unscrupu- 
 lous mayordomo, incited by the promise of a share of 
 the profits on the working of the hacienda, thinks 
 little of the comfort or even the lives of his coolies. 
 His duty and his private interests, untrammelled by 
 
OPPRESSION. 141 
 
 restraint of any kind, compulsory or moral, make him 
 look upon them as so many machines, out of which 
 the object is to extract a value in manual labour out 
 of all proportion to the cost of their maintenance. 
 The more work they can grind out of this human 
 machine, the greater is the satisfaction of the em- 
 ployers and the larger become his own profits. 
 
 One of these adventurers, a worthy specimen of 
 the West Indian slave-drivers, a class of men now 
 legally extinct, had the audacity to boast that he 
 had shot a refractory coolie with his own hand, and 
 "got off," paying the value (400 dollars) on the 
 grounds that he had received justifiable provocation. 
 In these estates, remote from towns, and therefore 
 removed from the moral restrictions which public 
 opinion exercises "where men do congregate," the 
 mayordomo is completely his own master, and 
 recognizes no law but his own will ; so, as in other 
 absolute despotisms, the well-being of those under his 
 sway depends on the amount of justice existing 
 in his own character. There are no government 
 officials whose duty it is to inquire how the Asiatic 
 coolie is treated, and, if there were, they would lack 
 means to enforce their decrees. In fact, the military 
 and civil force now maintained by government in 
 the provinces is everywhere inadequate to compel 
 obedience to the laws of the country. So notorious 
 is this fact, that no attempt is made to conceal the 
 motive for the sudden departure of the regiment from 
 
142 THE SUGAR ESTATES. 
 
 a native town, should there be reason to anticipate a 
 rising of its citizens with which the government forces 
 feel themselves incompetent to cope. To avoid un- 
 successful collision, they retire to a distance and await 
 reinforcements, whose arrival seldom fails in causing 
 the would-be disturbers of public peace to relinquish 
 their enterprise. In like manner, a large Peruvian 
 sugar-estate forms a little republic in itself, its 
 members form a numerical force superior to any 
 which government is able to maintain, perhaps in the 
 whole province. To maintain order among his own 
 people, the haciendado relies solely upon his own 
 resources, and the means he employs to secure 
 internal harmony are those which long experience has 
 proved to be most effectual. He follows the time- 
 honoured motto, " Divide et impera." To establish an 
 equilibrium of force, he uses the national antipathy of 
 race, held by the zambo and cholo against the coolie, 
 as a counterpoise to any united action of the Asiatics ; 
 and so well is the balance maintained, that at any 
 time the small number of his overseers can control the 
 scales by throwing their weight on one side or the 
 other. Every hacienda which boasts a " Hong-kong," 
 also contains a row of zambo huts. These lie some 
 distance apart, and frequently a water-course divides 
 Black Christian from Yellow Heathen. 
 
 Consul Marsh justly credits government with 
 having made efforts " to afford protection to these 
 people," the coolies ; but, he adds, " notwithstanding, 
 
THE PEONES. 143 
 
 their condition, as a rule, is far from satisfactory." 
 There can be no doubt that the government of Peru 
 finds itself much embarrassed as to providing all the 
 additional labour required by the many sugar-estates 
 recently established in the most fertile valleys of the 
 country. This difficulty does not rise solely from the 
 increased demand for manual labour, or from an 
 unusual deficiency in the population, but partially from 
 the continued influence of ancient customs, which 
 place the able-bodied cholo in the position of bond- 
 servant to the local landowner not by reason of 
 conquest, this state of things dates from the period 
 when the poorer native's position was analogous to that 
 of the serfs in the Middle- Ages or of the Russian 
 moujik previous to his emancipation by the Emperor 
 Alexander. The cholo's position resembles most that 
 of the moujik) inasmuch as in the agricultural districts 
 of Peru every labourer belongs to some one whose 
 debtor he is for sums of money advanced to him on 
 the prospective security of what labour he may be 
 capable of rendering. This debt is never repaid in 
 kind, but by its equivalent in manual toil, a method 
 which seldom liquidates the accounts, as the poor 
 man's daily necessities are more apt to increase the 
 burden in at least an equal proportion. The im- 
 provident character of the peon, his love of amuse- 
 ment and of launching out on feast-days, his idleness 
 on working days, coupled with perfect indifference to 
 everything but the pleasure of the moment, render him 
 
144 "JOHN CHINAMAN" IN REQUEST. 
 
 an easy prey to the calculating master who advances 
 him loans, thus securing his labour for years in advance. 
 Should he manage to escape from his creditor, in the 
 hope of earning elsewhere the money which would 
 purchase his liberty, he is quickly traced, and com- 
 pelled by law to resume work on his patron's land. It 
 is a revival of the Inca system of serfdom, but robbed 
 of its just compensations by the introduction of that 
 baneful Spanish institution called " patronage." 
 
 Under these circumstances, it is easy to conceive 
 the difficulty found by a newly established sugar- 
 planter in engaging the requisite labour, and nothing 
 appears more convenient and natural than to borrow 
 help from densely populated China. By throwing out 
 illusive promises, he succeeds in diverting southwards 
 some portion of that yellow stream of humanity, which 
 in 1873 began to flow steadily in a direct course from 
 Canton to San Francisco, threatening to overwhelm 
 California with Mongolian blood, and, as some whisper, 
 the Western States also. Like them the Peruvian 
 sugar-planter cannot resist the temptation of utilizing 
 the valuable commodity, though the advisability of 
 the step taken on such a large scale may be open to 
 question. The present need induces indifference to 
 future consequences, which in California have come to 
 mean possession. In Peru, it adds one more to the 
 numerous shades of colour consequent on the great 
 mixture of races from both worlds. But whatever may 
 be the future effect of so great an immigration, there 
 
NECESSITY FOR GOVERNMENT INSPECTION. 145 
 
 is no doubt of the responsibility incurred by the 
 planter, and the ugly rumours afloat as to the ill- 
 treatment of coolies point out the necessity for State 
 interference. In the author's opinion (which has 
 been often solicited) the estate proprietor, and not 
 his agent, should be made personally responsible to 
 government for his treatment of the coolies, and be 
 made to furnish quarterly returns as to his human 
 property ; for such it is de facto for the time being. 
 If these returns gave the name, age, and state of 
 health and condition of every coolie engaged, to- 
 gether with the date of his contract and name of the 
 agent who " imported " him from China, and in case 
 of death, authentic reports showing how it occurred, 
 each individual would be in a manner under State 
 protection, and the stories of wanton ill-usage would 
 disappear with the fact of irresponsibility which exists 
 under the present system. 
 
 These particulars should be entered in a register 
 kept by a special department under government. A 
 certain number of efficient officers would be required 
 to test the veracity of the returns made, and also from 
 time to time inspect the haciendas, and inquire into the 
 treatment the coolies receive. Publication of these 
 returns, with the penalties imposed on defaulting land 
 proprietors, would ensure to the coolie the protection 
 of that all-powerful public opinion, which, founded 
 on sympathy and justice, is seldom wanting in the 
 masses, though often, alas ! failing in individual cases. 
 
 L 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 Hacienda de Percala Traces of the Incas Senor Arbulu 
 Estate Management A Sugar-Planter's Day Siesta Mid- 
 day Heat Sea-breezes Inca Roads Ancient Aqueduct 
 Past and Present Irrigation Works versus Railways 
 Cotton Cultivation Cayalti. 
 
 To return to our journey. Leaving Patapo next 
 morning, we first visited the hacienda of our travelling 
 companion, Senor Isaga. This is called Percala, and 
 lies at that part of the Lambayeque where the 
 river divides into two branches. Its level is low, well 
 adapted for irrigation ; and a slightly raised knoll has 
 been chosen as the site of the house, labourers' 
 dwellings, and stables. 
 
 These knolls, or earth mounds, occurring where 
 least expected on the level plains, were often used by 
 the Incas as a foundation for their kuacas, or tumuli, 
 though the mounds themselves are of earlier origin and 
 are generally supposed to date from the time the 
 land was first brought under cultivation. They are 
 chiefly composed of the invaluable volcanic sand and 
 
INCA ENGINEERING. 147 
 
 other extraneous matter, which, it is supposed, once 
 covered the whole surface of these valleys. Some of 
 these raised earthworks spread over a large area, and 
 reach to a considerable height, leading the traveller 
 to marvel how the immense quantity of material 
 represented by their cubic contents could have been 
 collected so as to form a level plain, with a surface 
 unbroken by pits or quarries. Whenever the huacas 
 erected on these mounds are opened, human bones 
 are invariably found, with some of the utensils and 
 ornaments used by their possessors during life, such 
 as earthen water-jars, copper tools, trinkets, and 
 ornaments of various shapes and colours. 
 
 If the local belief is correct, and these mounds 
 were constructed by the Incas, one can easily 
 imagine that the same ingenuity which devised and 
 the perseverance which executed the roads and canals 
 was brought to bear in reducing the naturally un- 
 even surface of the ground to a lower level than the 
 water channels, thus bringing a wider area under 
 irrigation. The material thus cut away was pos- 
 sibly used to form the mounds, and also the adobe 
 bricks with which the huacas are built 
 
 The next estate visited was the Hacienda de 
 Sipan, where we found its proprietor, El Viego (the 
 old) Arbulu, as he is termed, awaiting our arrival, 
 seated under the shaded verandah of his house. Don 
 Pedro Arbulu was in his eightieth year. He possessed 
 at least one of the usual attributes of a patriarch, 
 
H8 A PATRIARCH. 
 
 having thirty odd children and an unknown number 
 of grandchildren, all claiming to belong to the house 
 of Sipan. Such is the licence allowed in this country, 
 that a rich haciendado often owns as many wives as 
 a Mussulman, with this difference, that he only 
 recognizes one in general society. It might have 
 been expected that some one of his numerous off- 
 spring would have been seen round the old man, but 
 no such gladdening sound as the merry laugh of 
 youth relieved the stern monotony of the place. 
 Arbulu's numerous family were distributed about the 
 mud-built houses of Chiclayo, while he, whose old 
 age would in a northern clime have been solaced by 
 "woman's tender care," here sat desolate under his 
 verandah, his solitude only broken by the rough 
 companionship of the men of the monte. 
 
 There was nothing exceptional about Senor 
 Arbulu's house. The same groves of orange and citron 
 trees, showing between dark foliage their orange and 
 green fruit, lined the chacra ; beds filled with rich 
 crops of lucern, or with the taller and stronger maize, 
 whose leaves, rustling in the wind, appeared to sing 
 the praises of the balmy air and rich soil to which 
 it owed its fecundity ; the same alameda shaded by 
 the familiar poplar trees, led through the home 
 potreros, or pasture-grounds, filled with mares and colts, 
 mules, goats, and sheep, and dotted here and there 
 by clusters of lofty bananas ; and beyond, Indian corn 
 waving in graceful undulations, stretching away to 
 
DAILY ROUTINE. 149 
 
 the horizon in most places, but here at Sipan where 
 little is grown, ending at a hedgerow of bush-wood, 
 or the skirts of a primitive forest The same dusty 
 sun-burnt, dried-up appearance, characteristic of the 
 flat-roofed farmhouse with its shady verandah and 
 general air of desertion, meets the traveller's eye as 
 he crosses the open space leading to the Peruvian 
 hacienda. If the houses and surroundings closely re- 
 semble each other, so does the mode of life followed 
 by the occupants. " Caesar and Pompey am berry 
 much alike, specially Pompey." 
 
 The itinerary of old Arbulu's daily life, if written, 
 would read like hundreds of other Peruvian hacien- 
 dados who personally manage their own farms. The 
 haciendado rises at daybreak, and after partaking of 
 tea or coffee, goes his rounds on horseback, visiting 
 each work in progress on his estate. For instance, 
 the work of a band of peones clearing away monte 
 will detain him, and he will give minute instructions 
 to the superintending mayordomo as to the limits of 
 the clearance, pointing out the part to be cut away by 
 hatchets, what may be set fire to without danger, etc., 
 etc. Next comes, perhaps, the ploughing of a cleared 
 space, preparatory to the planting of cane; and matters 
 relating to the team of oxen, the sharpness of the 
 plough, and the management of the work will have to 
 be settled before he continues his rounds. At another 
 point, the tracing of an acequia calls for his superior 
 skill and knowledge in the varying of its lines, so as 
 
T5o CROSSING THE PAMPA. 
 
 to command the highest ground without wasting 
 labour in experiments, or interfering with the existing 
 plantations. By the time his tour is finished and its 
 several duties performed, it is nearly noon, and he will 
 dismount from his cob at his house-door. Breakfast is 
 served, and the haciendado passes the heat of the day 
 in the cool shelter of his sala, scoring accounts, 
 attending to correspondence, or in conversation. 
 Then comes the siesta, spent in the inviting hammock 
 slung across the sala, or in the verandah. In the 
 evening, he will make a second inspection of his 
 estate, and criticize the result of his morning's in- 
 structions ; then the day's work is brought to a close 
 by his retiring to rest soon after supper. 
 
 Leaving Seiior Arbulu to the quiet enjoyment of 
 this peaceful life, untroubled by the uncertain seasons 
 which in other latitudes render the farmer's prosperity 
 a game of chance, but which here only threatens a 
 scarcity of water a calamity affecting chiefly the 
 larger cultivators we continue our ride in the 
 direction of Cayalti, distant some seven miles to the 
 south of Sipan. Here the country is more open and 
 less burdened with monte, and the light soil, disturbed 
 by the horses' feet, being parched to powder, rises in 
 clouds of fine dust, at times hiding our route. On our 
 left towers the Cordillera, apparently to an inaccessible 
 height ; and so powerful is the glare of the tropical 
 sun, that the quevradas, or ravines, appear indistinct 
 and undefined as if they had been roughly washed in 
 
INTENSE HEAT. 151 
 
 with neutral tint on the yellowish-grey sides of the 
 mountain. 
 
 It was only an hour past noon, yet the heat was 
 intense, registering- over eighty degrees in the shade ; 
 this severely tried the horses, whose pace seldom ex- 
 ceeded a walk. The oppression was general and the 
 movement of the air was insufficient even to rustle the 
 leaves of the scattered groups of trees we passed here 
 and there on the route. The stillness of Nature was 
 only disturbed by the weary tread of the horses' hoofs, 
 as they sank deep into the yielding soil. It was like 
 the silence which often precedes a storm, when the 
 voice of Nature is hushed, and birds and beasts seem 
 to await with bated breath the miraculous display of 
 an overwhelming force which they fear without com- 
 prehending. Drowsiness steals unconsciously over 
 both rider and pedestrian exposed to the heat at the 
 usual hour of the siesta. This weary march con- 
 tinues for over one hour. Suddenly relief is felt. 
 The rider rejoices in the refreshing seaborne breeze 
 which begins to play on his face, the horse snorts, 
 tosses his head, and endued with renewed activity, 
 breaks from his sluggish pace, the stronger for his late 
 repose, and the party break into a sharp gallop, soon 
 leaving the Hacienda de Sipan far in the rear. 
 
 About half-way between Sipan and Cayalti, we 
 came across a sample of the Incas' handicraft, being 
 the remains of the causeway which at one time served 
 as a thoroughfare between Cuzco and Quito. The 
 
152 AN ANCIENT CAUSEWAY. 
 
 roadway was raised on an embankment of earth, and 
 measured some twenty-four feet between its walls of 
 crumbled adobe. The pavement was at this time 
 buried in sand-drift, but as far as could be ascertained, 
 consisted of small round stones, which must have been 
 collected from the beds of distant mountain streams, 
 as no stones are found in the rivers which traverse the 
 valley. Standing on the top of the embankment, we 
 traced the causeway running in a straight line 
 mathematically correct, in the direction of Sana for a 
 distance of over one mile, when it became lost in the 
 monte. Professor A. Raimondi, of Lima, published a 
 map of Peru, showing the Inca roads, as described by 
 Cieza de Leon in his " Cronica del Peru," dated 1 553, in 
 which the present road is shown as stretching beyond 
 Sana, across the Lambayeque valley and the extensive 
 plain of Olmos, on the way to Piura. When close to 
 the latter town, it mounts the Cordillera, and passing 
 through the towns of Huanabamba, Loga, and Cuenga, 
 terminates at Quito. On the map, Sana stands at the 
 junction of two highways from the south, both start- 
 ing from Cuzco, which was the capital of the Inca's 
 empire. One dips directly towards the coast, to a point 
 south of Yea, and keeping near the sea, cuts the site 
 of the modern Lima, and thence via Trujillo reaches 
 Sana ; the other passes over higher ground through- 
 out its course, and winding about the mountain chain, 
 unites Cajamarca with the ancient capital, subse- 
 quently meeting the coast route at Sana. On a 
 
AN OLD ACEQUIA. 153 
 
 map published later by Mr. Clements Markham, hon. 
 secretary to the Royal Geographical Society, the 
 war- routes taken by the different Inca conquerors are 
 delineated. It may be worth noting that Huanca 
 Capac does not according to this map appear to have 
 followed the line of the Inca road described by 
 Professor Raimondi (and verified by our own 
 observations) in his march from Chimu (Trujillo) to 
 Tumpi Tumpez (Tumbez) ; for he is made to travel 
 from Pacasmayo directly through Eten and Chiclayo, 
 leaving Sana far to eastward. 
 
 The important service rendered to the peculiar 
 government system of the Incas by these stupendous 
 roads, traversing the empire lengthwise from end to 
 end, with numerous cross-branches to the sea-coast, 
 is graphically described by Mr. Prescott, the learned 
 historian of " The Conquest of Peru." 
 
 Following the embankment for some distance, we 
 came to an old acequia, which, judging from its level, 
 must have carried its waters under the causeway, 
 thus suggesting that both these works were in use at 
 the same date. The slopes and trough of the water- 
 course are sufficiently well preserved to show the 
 use which was made of it, but all traces of a viaduct 
 which may have carried the road across the water 
 have long disappeared, and we could find none of 
 the materials by probing in the sand. These relics of 
 industrial works, which serve to show the extent of 
 civilization reached by a people whose history is all 
 
154 WASTED MONEY. 
 
 but lost in the mist of conjecture, show also the 
 materials available by the present population, should 
 they desire to improve their condition. To see the 
 colossal works expressing the magnificent ideas of 
 this by-gone race, such as canals conducting water 
 from the dizzy elevations of the Cordillera to the 
 distant valleys along the coast, and roads stretching 
 for hundreds of leagues over a mountainous country, 
 and the ingenuity displayed in devising and con- 
 structing them at a time when steam power was to 
 them as unknown as iron tools, leads one to draw 
 a mental comparison between this pagan race and 
 their Peruvian successors of the present day, con- 
 siderably to the disadvantage of the latter. Uncouth 
 and superstitious as the former inhabitants were, 
 we cannot but give them credit for recognizing the 
 sure road to man's prosperity in the capabilities of 
 the fertile soil. Having power to command the labour 
 of a teeming population, they employed it in making 
 roads and canals. " In our days," says Senor Isaga, 
 " we should require unlimited supplies of gold in 
 order to assemble a sufficient number of workmen 
 to renew these crumbled ruins and draw water from 
 the rain-attracting heights on to our parched plains." 
 
 It is deplorable to think that when the needed 
 gold arrived in the shape of Peruvian loans no 
 portion of it was laid out in such purposes, the whole 
 amount being spent on railways. In that country, 
 irrigation works promise a certain return, as the con- 
 
THE CRYING WANT IRRIGATION. 155 
 
 ditions of climate along the seaboard oblige the 
 cultivator to seek his supply of water from a distance. 
 Means for properly irrigating the naturally rich 
 valleys, which only ask moisture to spring into 
 gardens, should naturally have been the first care 
 of a provident ruler. It is no fallacy to say that had 
 hydraulic works been carried to a successful issue with 
 the money lavished on railways, the latter, so to 
 speak, would have made themselves, for the great 
 and immediate increase in the produce of the land 
 which must have followed would naturally have in- 
 duced the cultivators to supply at their own expense 
 new and improved methods of transport. Demand 
 creates supply. Governments will occasionally make 
 the mistake of thinking that what has answered 
 admirably in certain climates and under certain con- 
 ditions must necessarily apply equally where climate 
 and conditions are different, and where different means 
 might have more readily attained the same ultimate 
 end the country's improvement and advancement. 
 
 Towards evening, the indications of recent culti- 
 vation, contrasting with the sandy monte-covered 
 country we had traversed since leaving the Inca cause- 
 way, showed us that we must be reaching Cayalti. 
 For more than a mile our track led across an 
 abandoned cotton-field, and the tufts of down which 
 still hung about the dry forsaken bushes seemed to 
 reproach the passers-by for neglecting a useful com- 
 modity. The experiment of cotton cultivation was 
 
156 COTTON CULTIVATION. 
 
 tried in the North of Peru not many years since ; it 
 has hitherto proved a failure, the plant not taking 
 kindly to the soil, and therefore frustrating a praise- 
 worthy attempt to add to the national industries. Its 
 planting has been tried experimentally each month of 
 the twelve, and in different parts of the country; but in 
 no case has it been found to yield a profitable annual 
 crop sufficient to warrant its promoters in competing 
 with the North American growers. The atmospheric 
 changes, slight as they are, are still too terrible for 
 this exceedingly sensitive plant to flourish under, and 
 the low night temperature sounded the knell of its 
 cultivation. Yet, strange to say, the seed dropped 
 casually by birds in the hedgerows often develops into 
 a fine creeper, and climbs over the hedges and bushes, 
 yielding a crop every year in its wild state. Here it 
 is protected from the cold winds by the sturdier 
 chilka, and in summer its beautiful white and yellow 
 flowers repay the friendly shelter by adorning the 
 plain-looking thickets. In the open plantations, 
 isolated and unprotected, it does not produce sufficient 
 to repay even the cost of planting. 
 
 Cayalti rivals Patapo in the extent of its culti- 
 vated land and in its annual output of sugar. It is the 
 property of some Lima merchants, and at the time of 
 our visit, the estate was managed by a son of one of 
 the partners, a youth who had but recently finished 
 his studies at San Carlos, the university of the 
 capital. To reach the hacienda, we first passed along 
 
CAYALTI. 157 
 
 lines of cane, then through alfafa meadows, named La 
 Vina, Oyotten, Ohabanda, Sultrapan, Mocupe, and 
 Ocupe. We crossed the river over a bridge built 
 upon algarova piles, at a point just below Sana, and 
 eventually arrived back at Chiclayo by a different but 
 less interesting road than the one described. We had 
 spent on this occasion something like one week very 
 enjoyably and to our advantage in visiting this beau- 
 tiful Peruvian valley, the associations connected with 
 which still remain vivid and fresh in the author's 
 memory. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 PERUVIAN ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 Mr. Squier's Explorations Pachacamac Convents Rope 
 Bridges Buried Relics Ancient Cities The Dragon Myth 
 Indian Worship Rough Travelling Large Stones 
 Sculptured Monolith Ancient Gateways Indians guarding 
 Ruins Sacred Islands Chulpas Peruvian Pottery 
 Water-coolers Black Earthen Jars Curiously shaped Jars 
 Ancient Figure in Pottery Ornamented Pottery Jars of 
 Strange Shape Relics from Aymara Graves Dr. Marcedo's 
 Collection. 
 
 BUT few visitors to Peru have either leisure or 
 opportunity to explore the interesting monuments 
 and relics which evidence the former existence of 
 races which, as the remains of their works show, must 
 have made great progress both in art and science. 
 Nearly everywhere throughout the country, these 
 ancient buildings are to be found buried deeply 
 under the surface. Their discovery is in consequence 
 both a laborious and expensive work. Added to 
 this, few indeed of the travellers to Peru go with 
 any idea of a purely scientific expedition. As a 
 question of money, the cost of the journey alone is 
 
HISTORICAL REMAINS. 159 
 
 a serious item for consideration. The country is, in 
 fact, a difficult one to explore, excepting by those 
 who carry long purses and have plenty of leisure 
 time to dispose of. 
 
 The land of the Incas is certainly for the student 
 of history a fascinating field, but his researches 
 should be undertaken as a labour of love, for unless 
 persevered in with more than ordinary patience, the 
 value of the results will scarcely correspond to the 
 labour bestowed, so many are the disappointments 
 he must expect to encounter. The conqueror's hand 
 fell heavily on the venerable antiquities and monu- 
 ments of Peru. As Mr. Prescott well observed, " In 
 their blind and superstitious search for hidden 
 treasures, they caused infinitely more ruin than 
 either time or the earthquakes. Yet enough monu- 
 ments of the Incas remain to invite the researches of 
 the antiquary." Only those in the most conspicuous 
 situations have hitherto been examined. The force 
 of Mr. Prescott's words applies fully as well to the 
 present time as to the period when they were written. 
 The most exhaustive and interesting researches per- 
 haps ever made among the ancient monuments of the 
 country are those recorded by M. Vena, and latterly, 
 within the last ten years, by Mr. E. George Squier. 
 Many of the ruins described by these explorers have 
 been visited by the author, who was thus enabled to 
 verify their accounts. Mr. Squier, imbued with a spirit 
 of research not unworthy of comparison with that of 
 
160 PACHACAMAC. 
 
 his distinguished countryman, Mr. Prescott, supple- 
 mented with no small success the work of his illustrious 
 predecessor in exploring the mysterious recesses of 
 Central America and Yucatan. His investigations 
 ranged over the greater part of the territory at one 
 time occupied by the great " Andean family," which 
 included the Aymaras of Bolivia, who became even- 
 tually incorporated with the Quichuan or Inca Empire. 
 With the aid of tape-line and theodolite, he measured 
 the ruins (or to speak correctly, those portions of ruins 
 which remain still exposed to view)* of Pachacamac, 
 the Grand Chimu, Tiahuanuco and those of the sacred 
 isles of Lake Titicaca, besides many score watch- and 
 burial-towers and earth-mounds, which he came across 
 in the course of his journeyings. In addition to this, 
 he describes also the great roads and aqueducts 
 which, as we know, formed such important factors 
 in the Incarial system of government, a system called 
 by Prescott " the mildest but most searching of 
 despotisms." 
 
 At Pachacamac, the only edifices traceable are 
 " El Castillo," or the temple which supported the 
 shrine of Pachacamac, and Mamacuna, the con- 
 vent of the Virgins, which, it is thought, was built by 
 the native Yungas of the coast prior to their conquest 
 by the Incas of the mountains. The shrine is poised 
 on a hill encircled by a series of adobes, or sun-dried 
 brick walls, which are painted red. The edifice, 
 * " Peru," by E. George Squier. 
 
ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE. 161 
 
 which is square in shape and greatly injured by ex- 
 cavation, bears on its sides the traces of figures of men, 
 and in places the original stucco and painting can be 
 made out. Mamacuna belongs to the Inca type. 
 It lies on low ground, near a small lake, a mile and a 
 half distant from El Castillo. Both on the hill as well 
 as around its base, the lines of half-buried walls 
 (running always at right angles to each other) mark 
 the site of an extensive town. Concerning the town, 
 it appears that separate " apartments," or flats, con- 
 sisting of from one to three rooms, were assigned to 
 each family. These three-roomed tenements contain 
 one front room fifteen feet square, a small sleeping- 
 room, and a kitchen. 
 
 Perhaps one of the most remarkable works con- 
 tained in these rooms is an arch, the principle of 
 which was thought to be unknown to the aborigines of 
 Central and South America. Mr. Squier considers the 
 presence of this arch to be entirely enigmatical, as he 
 can scarcely conceive that the knowledge and skill of 
 which it gives evidence could have existed among the 
 ancient Peruvians, wonderful architects though they 
 were, unless it had been found in other places besides. 
 Had the arch been known to the Incas, it does 
 certainly seem strange that the principle upon which 
 it is based received no wider application, for instance, 
 to bridges. 
 
 The rope suspension bridges found by the 
 Spaniards on their arrival were the only means 
 
 M 
 
162 BURIED RELICS. 
 
 employed by the Incas for crossing the deep ravines 
 and rivers of the Andes. The long bridge which 
 spans the Apurimac is one of the oldest, and its 
 approach on one side through an ancient tunnel cut 
 in the rock, fixes the spot as the identical point at 
 which the Incas crossed the river. The suspended 
 roadway on this bridge measures, from fastening to 
 fastening, 148 feet, and its height above the river is 
 118 feet. The cables, five in number, are made from 
 the twisted fibres of the cabuya, or maguey plant, and 
 are about four inches thick. 
 
 Among the findings at Pachacamac were a pair of 
 small bronze tweezers, used probably for picking out 
 the beard ; some pieces of alpaca blanket, finely spun 
 and woven in the style known as three-ply, in two 
 colours, a soft chestnut brown and pure white ; a sheet 
 of fine cotton cloth, sixty-two threads to the inch ; a 
 comb made of fishes' fins, set in a slip of wood ; the 
 remains of a fan with cane handle, from which 
 radiated the feathers of parrots and humming-birds ; 
 a necklace of shells ; an ancient spindle ; a wallet, con- 
 taining beans and pods of cotton ; some fragments of 
 silver ornaments ; and beads of chalcedony. Besides 
 these, there were numbers of utensils and earthen jars, 
 like those to be seen in the British Museum. 
 
 The writer unearthed from some of the huacas 
 or earth mounds in the province of Lambayeque 
 and Chiclayo, in the extreme north of Peru, relics 
 corresponding precisely in description with those 
 
THE CHIMUS. 163 
 
 found at Pachacamac, thus proving the enormous area 
 of country over which the Incas ruled. According to 
 Mr. Clements Markham's observation, which tallies 
 with that of the writer, the town of Chimu, as well as 
 others in many parts of Peru, is built on the same 
 plan as Pachacamac. These towns are invariably 
 laid out in rectangular sections, which in turn are 
 divided into smaller blocks of dwelling-houses. A 
 reservoir supplied with water by an open acequia, or 
 small canal, stands in the centre of each section of 
 buildings, and a thick wall surrounds the whole settle- 
 ment. A series of similar sections and squares, 
 occupying a space some 1600 feet long by noo feet 
 broad, is classed as a " palace," and is supposed to 
 have been the residence of a Chimu prince and his 
 retainers, before the Chimus were succeeded by the 
 Incas. But all information that can be gathered by 
 historians about the subjugation of the Chimus by the 
 Incas is vague and scanty. Garcilasso de la Vega, one 
 of the most reliable among the early chroniclers, says 
 that during the reign of Pachacamac, the ninth Inca 
 or king, the Chimu territory which extended along 
 the entire sea-shore from Chanc^ay to Trujillo, was 
 ruled over by Chimu-Cancha, who became subject to 
 Yupanqui, the son of Pachacutec. Pachacutec is re- 
 membered as having induced the Chimus to give up 
 the worship of fishes and animals in favour of that of 
 the sun. 
 
 Peru is not without her form of the " Dragon 
 
164 THE DRAGON MYTH. 
 
 Myth," but, like the Japanese, Cingalese, and many 
 other nations of very ancient origin, the Peruvians 
 can boast of their own special dragon and of the 
 independent part he played in their history. Among 
 the mythological illustrations which Mr. Squier gives 
 in his book, is one of a contest between the gods of 
 the earth and those of the sea. The man of the 
 earth is crowned with a serpent or lizard, the man of 
 the sea is clad in armour made from the shells of 
 crabs, lobsters, and turtles. It is interesting to com- 
 pare these woodcuts with descriptions of other dragon 
 forms found in the countries mentioned, as well as 
 in Hindostan, Scotland, Germany, and in fact nearly 
 every known country, with variations occasioned by 
 the different customs and modes of thought of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 It is reasonably conjectured that among the 
 Chimus there existed a popular form of worship 
 which was but little removed from fetichism, and was 
 marked by all the extravagances of a degraded 
 superstition. Arriaga, a Jesuit priest, who was com- 
 missioned by the Spanish viceroy to inquire into 
 the worship of the Indians in 1621, reported that 
 " In many parts, particularly among the mountains, 
 the natives, perhaps following the teachings of the 
 Inca conquerors, worshipped the sun under his proper 
 name, Inti ; and also Punchao, or the day ; Quilla, 
 the moon ; certain stars, especially Oncoy, the 
 Pleiades ; Libac y the lightning ; Mamacocha, the sea ; 
 

 THE CHIMUS. 165 
 
 Mamapacha, the earth ; Puquias, springs ; and 
 Razu> the snowy mountains." As the Hindoo races 
 worship, besides their celestial gods and their repre- 
 sentatives, three classes of divinities the Grama 
 Deveta, a village god ; the Kula Deveta, or house- 
 hold god ; and the Ishta Deveta, or personal or patron 
 god ; so too, the Chimus and the whole Yunga and 
 Chincha family had their village or communal deities, 
 their household huacas (their lares and penates), and 
 their patrons or personal huacas. It was to these 
 that their principal worship was paid. 
 
 Besides these interesting monuments in the north, 
 the south of Peru affords some celebrated ruins, 
 among which the most famous is perhaps Tiahuanuco, 
 or, as it has been christened, the American Stone- 
 henge. To reach Tiahuanuco, the traveller starts 
 from the port of Arica, goes by rail to Tacna, and 
 thence plunges into the heart of the Cordillera. 
 The hardships and privations incident to a journey 
 across the Cordillera will not soon be forgotten by 
 any one who has undergone them. The wretched 
 tambos, where the only available provisions consist 
 of a little chupe (a weak stew of llama flesh), and 
 whose only sleeping accommodation is a bare bench 
 to lie on, with an armful of fodder for the mules, are 
 the only resting-places to be found in the country. 
 Passing over these difficulties of the road, which is 
 the necessary price paid by the explorer for the 
 satisfaction of his curiosity, we proceed towards the 
 
166 TIAHUANUCO. 
 
 ruins of Tiahuanuco, to reach which the Orsaquadero 
 river must be crossed. This river, which drains Lake 
 Titicaca, is crossed over a floating bridge made by 
 joining together many bundles of dried reeds, on 
 which the roadway is formed. The river is one hun- 
 dred and fifty yards wide here ; and when it becomes 
 swollen and the current is strong, it is usual to cut the 
 cables at one end and let the bridge swing down the 
 stream, so as to avoid its being swept away entirely. 
 
 The ruins of Tiahuanuco lie nearly in the centre 
 of the great terrestrial basin in which are situated 
 Lakes Titicaca and Aullayas. Here blocks of stone, 
 mouldings, cornices, vast masses of sandstone, trachyte 
 and basalt, great monolithic doorways, bearing sym- 
 bolical ornaments in relief, are some of the objects 
 which lie scattered over the level sandy plain. Here, 
 in this Baalbec of the New World, as at Chimu and 
 Pachacamac, a " fortress," a " temple," and a " palace " 
 were built on raised ground originally terraced, and 
 each terrace supported by a massive wall of cut stones, 
 the whole surmounted by structures of stone, parts of 
 whose foundations are still to be traced. Some of the 
 stones are very large, and give rise to the old frequently 
 unanswered questions asked also of the Egyptian 
 pyramids and the Palaces of Cuzco, as to the means 
 by which such huge blocks of stone could have been 
 brought to a spot so far from any known quarry. 
 Some of these monoliths measured thirteen feet eight 
 inches in length by five feet three inches in breadth, 
 
SCULPTURED STONES. 167 
 
 and were two feet six inches thick. On an average 
 the stones are of smaller dimensions than those com- 
 posing the circle at Stonehenge, but they are much 
 more accurately cut, the front surfaces being per- 
 fectly true, and only the backs left in their original 
 rough state, or partially worked. Mr. Squier's opinion 
 is that in no part of the world are stones to be seen 
 cut with such mathematical precision and such ad- 
 mirable skill as in Peru, and in no part of Peru are 
 there any to surpass those which are scattered over 
 the plain of Tiahuanuco. 
 
 Among the ruins is also to be seen a monolithic 
 gateway, which, curiously enough, D'Orbigny, who 
 visited Tiahuanuco in 1833, says had then fallen 
 down. It is now upright, but by what agency it 
 was raised is unknown. This block of stone measures 
 thirteen feet in length by seven feet in height, and is 
 eighteen inches thick. A doorway, four feet six inches 
 high and two feet nine inches wide, is cut through 
 its centre. Lines of sculpture are traced above the 
 doorway and a central figure carved in high relief. 
 This figure represents a head, surrounded by rays, 
 each ending in a circle. Each hand grasps a staff 
 of equal length with his body, and they are carved 
 to represent serpents, but with heads like those of a 
 condor and a tiger. An ornamented girdle clasps 
 the waist of the figure, which stands on a base, or 
 series of smaller figures approaching in character the 
 architectural ornament called grecques, or zigzags. 
 
i68 RUINS CAREFULLY WATCHED. 
 
 Winged human-headed or condor-headed figures are 
 represented on either side in three square divisions, 
 kneeling on one knee with their faces turned towards 
 the great central figure, as if in adoration. Each one 
 holds a staff or sceptre. The relief in their figures 
 is scarcely more than two-tenths of an inch, and the 
 minor features are indicated by very delicate lines 
 slightly incised, which form figures representing heads 
 of condors, tigers, or serpents. This is the principal 
 object among the ruins. Another drawing represented 
 a gateway formed of two cylindrical columns overhung 
 by an arch. The presence of the arch at Tiahuanuco, 
 must be as enigmatical as in Chimu. 
 
 Like all other ruins in Peru, those at Tiahuanuco 
 are closely watched by self-appointed guardians, who 
 belong to the Indian village in the neighbourhood. 
 The precise motive for the watch thus kept over 
 objects which apparently have no intrinsic value, at 
 least in the eyes of poor ignorant Indians, is difficult 
 to explain. The Indians are, however, said to enter- 
 tain the firm conviction (worth noting by future 
 explorers) that all ruins mark the site of tapadas, or 
 hidden treasure, so perhaps this belief accounts for 
 the vigilance exhibited in watching the proceedings 
 of any stranger who may be bent on antiquarian 
 research. Mr. Squier relates that no sooner had he 
 begun to explore the ruins, than he became aware 
 of the presence of a very old man, withered and 
 wrinkled and bent with the weight of years, who 
 
THE AYMARA LANGUAGE. 169 
 
 seemed to be engaged in working a block of stone 
 into the shape of a cross. The old man was on 
 the ground every morning before Mr. Squier himself 
 arrived, and was the last to take his departure. 
 
 Among the scanty population which lives on the 
 borders near Lake Titicaca, hardly any language but 
 Aymara is understood. All white men are at once 
 saluted with the words "Tai-tai Viracocha," "Wel- 
 come, father of the sea ; " for Viracocha, who was 
 reported to have been born of the sea, had blue eyes, 
 fair hair, and a light complexion. 
 
 On Lake Titicaca there are eight inhabitable 
 islands, seven of which are known by the names of 
 Amanteme, Tagueli, Soto, Titicaca Coati, Campanario, 
 Toguare, and Aputo. Titicaca Coati is the sacred 
 island of Peru. Mythology says that it was from thence 
 that Manco Capac and his wife and sister, Mama and 
 Oello, children of the sun, started on their mission to 
 instruct in religion and the arts the savage tribes of the 
 neighbouring coast. On this island, the remains of a 
 temple of the sun, a monastery for priests, a royal 
 palace, and other of the usual vestiges of Inca civiliza- 
 tion are still to be seen. The "sacred rock" of 
 Manco Capac is at the northern extremity of the 
 island. Nearly all the old chroniclers, including Ca- 
 lancha and Garcilasso, agree in assigning the date 
 of the erection of these edifices on the island to some 
 time between the years 1425 and 1470, which included 
 the period of Tapac Yupanqui's reign. 
 
170 THE CHULPAS. 
 
 On the adjoining peninsula of Sillustriani, Dr. 
 Raimondi, a distinguished Peruvian antiquarian and 
 scientist, has observed many chulpas, or burial 
 towers, both round and square in shape. These 
 chulpas consist of a solid mass of clay and stones, 
 measuring some sixteen feet in height ; they are 
 rectangular in plan, and measure seven and a half feet 
 face by six feet at the sides. Their surface is stuc- 
 coed over, and painted white and reddish. They have 
 an opening in front, about eighteen inches square, to 
 admit the corpse. The chulpas answer the same 
 purpose as the kourgans in Central Asia. There are 
 also a number of figures, formed in the shape of circles 
 and semicircles of varying diameter, resembling very 
 closely the semicircles of Druidical circles in Eng- 
 land. One of these measures one hundred and twenty- 
 four feet in diameter, and forms a ring of upright 
 stones, bounded by a platform of flat stones. It has 
 an opening five feet wide on the eastern side, and 
 encloses two large upright stones, placed one-third 
 of the diameter apart. 
 
 But notwithstanding all the interesting monuments 
 which are to this day to be seen at Tiahuanuco, Cuzco, 
 and scores of other places in different parts of Peru, 
 the ancient history of the Peruvians remains as yet a 
 disjointed chronicle, a tale where dates and names are 
 continually found wanting. The history is in great 
 part conjecture. Nothing can be less satisfactory 
 than the readings of the quipus (or knotted ropes, by 
 
BURIED POTTERY. 171 
 
 means of which events were recorded) performed by 
 the ignorant, and it must be admitted that few facts 
 of any value are to be deduced from the unburied 
 portions of the ruins which are spread broadcast over 
 the country.* 
 
 This chapter upon the least known Peruvian 
 antiquities would be incomplete did it not contain 
 some brief description of the pottery ware which is 
 found in great quantities among the ancient huacas, 
 which are so numerous throughout the country. As 
 has been previously mentioned, the writer himselt 
 explored no inconsiderable number of these ancient 
 burial mounds in the north of Peru, and made a small 
 collection of the relics which he came across. The 
 apparent use of the pottery dug out was to carry 
 water. These water-jars are made of clay generally 
 identical in quality and either red or black in colour. 
 The clay appears to have been very fine and soft to 
 the touch, and when moistened, susceptible of being 
 
 * While correcting the proof-sheets of this volume, the 
 author read an identical opinion expressed with respect to the 
 ancient monuments of Mexico by M. A. Dupin de Saint-Andre^ 
 in his recently published work entitled, Le Meocique Augour 
 d'hm. At page 168 M. de Saint-Andre" writes: " Tous ces 
 monuments ont un grand interet arche'ologique. Us confirment 
 ce qu'ont dit les auteurs espagnols des idees, de la religion et 
 des connaissances astronomiques des Azteques ; mais ont ils 
 livrd tous leurs secrets ? Ce n'est pas probable. Sans donte 
 les savants de 1'avenir arracheront a ces sphinx de pierre des 
 reVe"lations nouvelles sur un passd plein d'obscurite's et de 
 mysteres, et ddchireront peut-etre les derniers voiles qui cachent 
 a vos contemporains les origines des peuple des Mexicaines." 
 
172 TYPES OF FEATURE. 
 
 moulded in any shape, so as to portray the most 
 delicate lines of the human face. The black ware 
 weighs heavier in proportion than the red, this differ- 
 ence being accounted for by the comparatively greater 
 quantity of mineral substances (sometimes gold) which 
 the former is said to contain. One marked property 
 of the water-jars made out of this particular clay is 
 that water put into them will keep cool, or at least 
 at a low temperature for several hours, even if exposed 
 to the heat of the burning tropical sun. The clay is 
 somewhat porous. The usual form of these jars is 
 melon-shaped ; others have the shape of a pine or an 
 orange. They are often made with a double bowl, con- 
 nected by a hollow cross-bar, which serves as a handle. 
 The water pours through upright or curved spouts, 
 which in the twin jars are also connected by a narrow 
 square-shaped pipe. The forms and faces of human 
 beings or of beasts are frequently moulded on the 
 outside of these bowls, or a running arabesque pattern ; 
 and the mouths of the spouts are often formed in the 
 shape of a head, either human or that of a beast or bird. 
 Sometimes the moulding is omitted, and the jars are 
 quite smooth and plain. The black clay glazes better 
 than the red, owing no doubt to its being richer in 
 mineral substances. A very little cleaning and brush- 
 ing makes the surface shine brightly, and reflect 
 images like a looking-glass. In some jars, the mouth 
 of one of the necks is so formed that by blowing into 
 the other musical sounds are produced some loud 
 
JARS IN BRITISH MUSEUM. 173 
 
 and shrill as a railway guard's whistle, others soft and 
 melodious as if coming from a sweet-toned flute. 
 
 It is interesting to note the close resemblance 
 which the figures traced on some of the bowls bear to 
 the forms and lineaments of the Indians and half- 
 castes of the present day. As the artist who moulded 
 the jars probably worked from the life, it would seem 
 that the race, though degraded, has survived all revo- 
 lutions and changes of dynasty, as some of these clay 
 portraits, which have been buried for hundreds of 
 years, might well stand for those of Indians who are 
 now the subject race in the country where probably 
 their ancestors ruled. 
 
 The jars are of moderate size, the smaller ones 
 standing six inches in height, and the larger twelve 
 or eighteen. Often the clay is moulded into the form 
 of a man, beast, or bird, with great accuracy of detail. 
 The collection of Peruvian antiquities to be seen at 
 the British Museum contains one especially rare 
 specimen of this class of work in red clay. The 
 figure, which is about nine inches in height, is that 
 of a partly naked Indian, kneeling on his left knee, 
 with the leg under him, and holding in his right hand 
 a mace or mallet, and in his left a round shield. He 
 wears on his head a close fitting cone-shaped turban, 
 in shape something like a Turkish fez, having a wide 
 hood, which envelopes his ears and falls low on his 
 shoulders. The ears thus hidden, appear through 
 the covering to be of extraordinary size, like those 
 
174 WARLIKE FIGURES. 
 
 of an Egyptian sphinx. The head is small in pro- 
 portion to the body, and square-shaped, the depth 
 between crown and chin being somewhat shallow. 
 On the other hand, the breadth between the ears is 
 unusually wide, and the cheekbones are strongly 
 marked and protrude very much. The forehead is 
 flat and low, while the jaws are massive and powerful ; 
 the mouth is wide, and the lips thin and sharply cut, 
 while the nose, which in most other faces in this 
 collection is short and flat, in this one is somewhat 
 longer and of the Roman type. The eyes are long- 
 shaped and oval, the lids partly open giving a sleepy, 
 self-complacent expression to the face. A vest, orna- 
 mented with a border of mathematically drawn 
 figures, fits close to the body and the upper portions 
 of the arms and legs, while the feet are clothed with 
 sandals. Mr. A. W. Franks, who presides over this 
 department of the British Museum, considers this 
 figure to be of great antiquity, but no one has yet 
 ventured to decide on its origin or date. Another 
 jar, which is thought to be older still than the one 
 just described, is embellished with the figures of two 
 warriors. Its design merits a brief description. The 
 warriors stand in a defiant attitude, holding in the left 
 hand a spear or dart, apparently just lifted to be 
 hurled at an adversary. On the right arm, which is 
 extended as if in self-protection, a broad shield is 
 carried. From the number of straight feathered lines 
 extending beyond the circumference, the shield is 
 
RESEMBLANCE TO ETRUSCAN WARE. 175 
 
 apparently meant to carry a large supply of darts. 
 The face of these figures wears a fierce and warlike 
 expression ; the mouth, chin, and nose are like those 
 of an animal. The nose is long, and turns sharply 
 upward at the point, with wide open nostrils ; while 
 the broad mouth exhibits two rows of long, formidable 
 teeth, between which the forked tongue extends far 
 out of the mouth. He wears on his head a close- 
 fitting helmet, surmounted with a sharply pointed 
 crescent. Does this point to the worship of the 
 moon ? That is a question for the antiquarian or 
 comparative mythologist. The dark red lines of the 
 figure are shown well in relief on the body of the bowl, 
 which is much lighter in hue. 
 
 Some of the jars are made in very curious shapes. 
 Thus, one represents a whale which has apparently 
 been washed ashore ; the figure of a naked man is 
 seen crawling down his back, as if bent upon catching 
 a snake, which is wriggling away from his reach. 
 Another represents the head of a llama, or Peruvian 
 sheep ; another, which was dug up at Trujillo, that 
 of a woman, with a child under each arm ; while the 
 forms of parrots, ducks, melons, fruits of several sorts, 
 in fact, the forms of all the animal and vegetable 
 world known to these original clay-moulders are 
 called into requisition as models. " It is curious," 
 remarked Mr. Franks to the writer on one occasion, 
 " how closely these Peruvian jars resemble the 
 Etruscan. See this black one, with a human head 
 
1 76 STONE CARVING. 
 
 shown on either side of the bowl ; my confrere in the 
 Greek Department sent it to me, thinking it belonged 
 to the Peruvian collection, and I have not myself yet 
 made up my mind as to whether it does so or not, or 
 if I should return it whence it came." 
 
 Among Mr. Franks' treasures is a wooden drink- 
 ing-cup, to which he points with pride. It stands 
 about six inches high, round in shape, the diameter 
 of the brim being much greater than that of the 
 bottom, which makes it almost fan-like in shape. It 
 is carved from a block of black wood, hard in texture 
 and close in grain, which may be either ebony or 
 lignum vitae. The outside of the cup is ornamented 
 with mastic drawings in red- and blue, representing 
 men in the dress worn by the Spanish invaders, which 
 at all events fixes its date as subsequent to the con- 
 quest of Peru. It was found in an Aymara grave 
 near Puno. Besides paddles and javelins about twelve 
 inches long, and pointed with sharp pieces of chalce- 
 dony, silver figures, and others made out of pyrites, 
 bronze axes and ploughs, small boxes of red paint, 
 packages of maize, pieces of cloth and yarn, pincers, 
 and hundreds of other curiosities dug out of Peruvian 
 graves, the cases in the British Museum contain a 
 remarkable specimen of stone carving, which, in an 
 age when iron tools were unknown, must have taken 
 an immense time to finish. This is a flat tray, 
 measuring ten inches either way, and having squarely 
 shaped wings projecting at the four corners. It is 
 
DR. MARCEDOS COLLECTION. 177 
 
 made of white porphyry, streaked with pink. The 
 hollow of the tray is about one inch and a half 
 deep, and the sides, half an inch thick, have all their 
 edges rounded, as if the tools employed were not 
 capable of cutting sharp edges in this material. 
 
 The most valuable portion of the Peruvian antiqui- 
 ties comes from Mr. Henry Christy's private collection, 
 bequeathed by him to the nation. This bequest is 
 supplemented by numerous valuable donations of Mr. 
 Franks, the original collection at the Museum having 
 been but meagre and scanty. But the finest collection 
 known to exist belongs to Dr. Marcedo, a native of 
 Peru. He is said to have brought it to Europe some 
 years ago with the object of selling, and to have offered 
 it to the trustees of the British Museum. The terms 
 asked are not publicly known, but it seems regrettable 
 that so valuable and unique a collection, probably 
 containing in the hieroglyphics engraved on its vases 
 and jars the, as yet, undeciphered history of so in- 
 teresting an ancient race as the Peruvian, should not 
 be accessible to the inspection of the savants of all 
 nations, who congregate in the galleries of our great 
 national institution. 
 
 N 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 JOHN CHINAMAN ABROAD. 
 
 The Yellow Stream " World Servants" Time Contracts The 
 Health Committee of Sydney Mr. Cecil Guinness's Expe- 
 riences of Chinese in New South Wales Good Miners 
 Abstemiousness Queensland Dr. Hue's Opinion A 
 Heavy "Poll-tax" Commission of the Chinese Govern- 
 ment to Cuba Evidence taken Kidnapping Hard Task- 
 masters Information withheld Agreements broken by 
 Employers A Long Day's Work The Coolie in Peru 
 Consul March's Report " Insubordination " Conventions 
 between China and Foreign Powers The Peruvian Con- 
 vention Lord Granville's Commissioners in Demerara 
 The British Pekin Convention Insufficient Protection for 
 Coolies on Landing The Price of a "John Chinaman." 
 
 SLAVERY is a thing of the past,* and such traces of 
 it as survive are felt to be anomalous and doomed to 
 early extinction. But there is another kind of servi- 
 tude, partly voluntary and partly enforced, or, as 
 
 * Some people, thinking of Turkey, may say otherwise. But 
 the traffic in Circassian women, still carried on in Turkey, is no 
 slave-trade, correctly speaking. The women are not subjected 
 to manual labour, and the traffic is conducted in secret, slavery 
 being prohibited according to Mahomedan law. 
 
VOLUNTARY SLAVERY. 179 
 
 some have termed it, " natural and artificial," which 
 has no essential connection with the old form of 
 slavery, but which yet resembles it closely in many 
 respects. The fact of a race of men voluntarily 
 crossing the seas to work out a time-service in a 
 strange country, without any idea of permanently 
 settling, belongs to the present, and constitutes an im- 
 portant factor in the sum of civilization and material 
 development of the globe. By the emigration of 
 Chinese subjects to the West a new phase is opened 
 in the social relationship of one race to another, of the 
 peoples of the civilized and progressive West with 
 those of the primitive East. There can be little 
 doubt that this phase must exercise a stupendous 
 influence on civilization, and the fact that at the 
 present moment there are seventy millions of human 
 beings actually starving in the provinces of North 
 China * is sufficient to account for the impetus which 
 emigration has lately received. In tracing the move- 
 ment on the map, Chinese emigration appears like 
 a huge stream, which, setting out from China, flows 
 steadily westwards, throwing out here and there 
 tentative branches into countries inhabited by the 
 Frank, the Anglo-Saxon, and their offshoots, intro- 
 ducing on its way new traditions of life, or rather 
 very old theories of an old race which are new to a 
 young one, and setting thoughtful men to speculate 
 as to where its course is likely to end. Will it touch 
 * As stated by Sir Thomas Wade at Lambeth Palace. 
 
V 
 
 i8o THE COOLIE. 
 
 England ? In these days, when frequent strikes and 
 wordy meetings among the labouring classes show 
 the unhealthy state of the labour market, who can 
 answer that question ? We know there is a party 
 of no inconsiderable weight who have already ad- 
 vocated the employment of Chinese in the coal in- 
 dustry. England is full of industries of various 
 descriptions, and no one knows what the cotton- 
 spinners, lace-weavers, ironmongers, and the thousand 
 and one trades may do when they see a cheap and 
 plentiful supply of intelligent labour placed within 
 their reach. In the meanwhile some knowledge of 
 the character and customs of these " world-servants," 
 taken from the most reliable sources of information, 
 may perhaps be of general interest. The writer having 
 had personal experience among Chinese coolies, has 
 undertaken to contribute his mite of information. 
 
 It was for a long time thought that the human 
 family did not contain a more striking contrast in 
 respect both of physique and character than that 
 existing between the white and black races. The 
 appearance of the Chinaman as a competitor with 
 both offered for solution a still more difficult problem, 
 i.e. Is the Chinaman inferior or superior to his fellow- 
 men? The varying opinions on this question are 
 evident in the anti-Chinese agitation now raging in 
 California, and in the controversial debates in the 
 Parliaments of our Australian colonies, notably in 
 that of Queensland. In order to arrive at some con- 
 
IN AUSTRALIA. 181 
 
 elusion we must carefully examine his behaviour, both 
 as a coolie or labourer by contract and as a free 
 man. We will begin by describing his condition in 
 Australia. The numbers of Chinese in the different 
 Australian colonies are as follows : 
 
 New South Wales:. In 1861 they numbered 
 12,988, or 371 per cent, of the population; but at 
 the last census (1871) their number had decreased to 
 7220, or i -43 per cent, a diminution of 5768, or 44*41 
 per cent. In Queensland, at the taking of the census 
 in 1876, there were 10,399 in a population of 188,000, 
 or 5*53 per cent. In Victoria, out of a population 
 of 840,300 (up to December 31, 1876), there were 
 20,132 Chinese, or 2*39 per cent. In South Australia 
 the number is inconsiderable, probably not exceeding 
 one or two hundred at the present moment. In the 
 colony of New South Wales, in 1875, the Health 
 Board of Sydney appointed a sub-committee to 
 inspect and report on the condition of the Chinese in 
 that town. A single extract from that report (a copy 
 of which has been kindly given to the author by Dr. 
 Read of Sydney) must here suffice to paint the city 
 domestic life of John Chinaman in that part of the 
 world. Dr. Dansey gave evidence on behalf of him- 
 self and Mr. Palmer as follows : 
 
 " Met at the Town Hall on Tuesday, December 7, 
 1875, and went first to Park Street, where we inspected 
 several boarding-houses, all clean and in orderly 
 condition. In the same street is a wooden house, 
 
182 CONDITIONS OF LIVING. 
 
 containing eight rooms, occupied by Wah Lu Ong, 
 a Chinaman carpenter, employing a number of men. 
 Seventeen persons sleep in the house, all countrymen 
 of the proprietor. In one room, 14 by 12 feet, were 
 eight beds, the room being partitioned off into bunks, 
 like the steerage of a ship ; bedding of a very varied 
 kind. In some bunks were mattresses, in others only 
 rags and clothing ; mosquito curtains black with dirt. 
 In another room, over the shop, were five beds of a 
 similar description. We looked into the kitchen 
 downstairs, which was dirty and smoky. The whole 
 place stinks aloud, the horrible and sickening opium 
 smell pervading all through it. Among the work- 
 men were several apprentices. The workmen on wages, 
 we ascertained, earn from los. to 15^. a week and 
 their food. This day's inspection was not performed 
 without serious fatigue and risk to health to Dr. Read 
 and myself. For the next forty-eight hours, the 
 horrible sickly smell of opium-smoking, which per- 
 vades all the Chinese quarters, seemed to adhere to 
 us, to say nothing of the fear of infection." 
 
 In England, where food and lodging costs con- 
 siderably more than in New South Wales, there are 
 thousands of unskilled labourers who earn much less 
 than 1 5 s. or 2Os. per week, on which they manage to 
 support themselves and often a large family. But the 
 Chinaman's preference for living in the foul atmo- 
 sphere of crowded rooms, and on the most meagre 
 fare, is not without explanation. One Chinaman will 
 
CONTRACT SERVICE. 183 
 
 go to New South Wales actuated by the same motive 
 which takes another to America the temptation 
 of higher wages. Indeed, England and China have 
 one point of resemblance both are over-populated. 
 In China, the native finds employment with diffi- 
 culty, and has to work for wages which afford but 
 the smallest means for supporting life, such as a 
 feed of rice twice a day. With the introduction of 
 steam into navigation, a new vista is opened to his 
 view, new worlds are described, where gold is to be 
 had for the working. Extravagant stories are circu- 
 lated by the shipping speculators in and about Canton, 
 whence they spread far into the interior tales of 
 fabulous wages paid for manual labour in California 
 and Peru, in Australia, Cuba, and elsewhere, which 
 encourage the native to seek a way out of his poverty 
 by emigration. The result is obvious. Bands of 
 Chinese eager to acquire wealth are collected by these 
 diligent agents, and shipped off to whatever land it 
 may suit the shipowners to take them. Some provide 
 their passage-money by the sale of all their posses- 
 sions, and land as free men in search of work ; others, 
 who have nothing to sell, sign a contract to work for 
 eight years on the Peruvian guano and sugar fields, 
 in consideration of which they are allowed a free 
 passage there and back. Thus the emigrant intends 
 only a temporary absence from his native country. 
 His motive is to earn gold, and when that desire is 
 partially satisfied, he turns his thoughts homewards. 
 
184 STIPULATIONS FOR RETURN. 
 
 He is not an emigrant in the sense in which the 
 early settlers in America were. The Chinaman takes 
 nothing to help him in pushing his fortune ; he is 
 strongly attached to his fatherland, and in particular 
 wishes his body to be buried in his native soil. Thus 
 he has but one desire, which becomes a pervading 
 principle of action, that of saving as much money 
 as he can during his absence to take home with him. 
 With this view he spends only just enough to support 
 life under conditions repugnant to every notion of 
 humanity. 
 
 The evidence of the Health Committee of Sydney, 
 if not applicable to all classes of Chinese, faithfully 
 describes the privations which a great proportion of 
 them voluntarily endure for the sake of economizing. 
 But it is noticeable that all reports on Chinese dwell- 
 ing-houses give the same picture of squalor. It is 
 only when brought into some kind of domestic rela- 
 tionship with the white man that John Chinaman 
 learns ideas of order and cleanliness. The writer's 
 object in this paper is to give his own experiences 
 and those of others who have employed Chinese in 
 various parts of the world. Mr. Cecil Guinness has 
 employed Chinese labour for fifteen years in Australia, 
 and it is instructive to contrast his experience (under 
 different circumstances) with that of the Sydney 
 Board of Health. He writes to the author : 
 
 " As to my experience of Chinese as servants in 
 the colonies I have lived in. I have had large sheep- 
 
CHINAMEN AS FARMERS. 185 
 
 stations in Victoria, New South Wales, and Queens^ 
 land, in the different places at different times between 
 the years 1862 and 1876. I have employed Chinamen 
 as house-servants, gardeners, shepherds, fencers, and 
 shearers, etc., in fact, in almost every form of employ- 
 ment connected with sheep farming. I have found 
 them most useful and industrious, sober and honest. 
 They all smoke opium, more or less, but you seldom 
 see them affected deleteriously by that indulgence, 
 nor have I ever traced any neglect of their duties to 
 that cause. They are inveterate gamblers, but neither 
 have I ever seen that propensity interfere with their 
 duties. It is chiefly indulged in when they take their 
 holiday, and congregate in the nearest township. 
 They are sticklers for wages, and expect and demand 
 as much as Europeans. As house-servants they are 
 useful and often clean, and a great accession in the 
 up-country homesteads, often capital cooks and bakers, 
 and very careful and economical. As gardeners they 
 are remarkable. Accustomed to keep their own little 
 gardens in their own country under great difficulties, 
 they are invaluable in the arid interior of Australia. 
 At Bourke, on the Darling River, in New South 
 Wales, where I lived for ten years, and where, till the 
 advent of Chinamen, it was thought by the earliest 
 European settlers we should never be able to raise 
 vegetables, we soon were surprised and delighted to 
 find, thanks to the perseverance, energy, and industry 
 of the Chinamen gardeners, that we had all the year 
 
186 STEADINESS AND PERSEVERANCE. 
 
 round a succession of the finest vegetables I have 
 ever seen in any part of the world. In all other 
 departments of station-labour I may add that they 
 are nearly as useful ; and, in a word, my experience 
 of Chinese labour is most favourable. They are more 
 suited by habit, characteristics, and physique to plod- 
 ding, fossicking, persevering industry than for heavy 
 work. They are grand stayers and very efficacious 
 light weights. I have not much direct personal 
 experience of Chinese labour on gold fields, but I 
 believe their industry and perseverance have worked 
 wonders in that line, and I believe that some of the 
 greatest gold mines in Victoria and New South Wales, 
 when supposed to be worked out and abandoned by 
 Europeans, have been persevered in by Chinamen till 
 they have taken a fresh start, and, when returned to, 
 have become of vast importance. This is my settled 
 conviction, after many years of personal practical 
 station management, where I had every opportunity 
 of thoroughly knowing my men." 
 
 Mr. Guinness's experiences show the original and 
 best side of the Chinaman's character, the great power 
 of endurance, by which he is able to live in the most 
 sterile places. His wants are few, and he shows ready 
 ingenuity in supplying them, in whatever land he may 
 find himself. He looks half-starved, but yet he lives 
 on, and will attain a good old age, as did his father 
 before him. Some one has compared the Chinaman 
 to the celebrated horse whose owner tried to train, him 
 
SMALL FEEDERS. 187 
 
 to live on a single straw a day. Nature has been 
 practising the experiment on the " Heathen Chinee " 
 for ages, and he comes nearer this ideal of perfection 
 by several straws than the Anglo-Saxon can hope to do. 
 It cannot be denied that so lithe and easily supported 
 an individual is capable of rendering great service in 
 our colonies, where labour of all kinds is in such great 
 demand. The writer is, moreover, persuaded that 
 his introduction would not find a dissentient voice in 
 the Assemblies of the Colonial governments, should 
 he seek domestic employment. He is by nature well 
 suited for discharging such household duties as wash- 
 ing, cooking, house-cleaning, and is admirable as a 
 nurse. But we know that the Chinaman's views 
 aim higher. The flow of emigration from China to 
 America and Australia is of a steady and irresistible 
 force, and owes its impetus as much to the internal 
 condition of the Chinese Empire as to the facilities 
 afforded by steam navigation. 
 
 It is not proposed here to discuss the difference 
 between a military invasion and one purely social, 
 even though the arms of the latter are endurance, 
 abstinence, and ingenuity.* But the habit of looking 
 
 * In the July number of the Fortnightly Review, in an article 
 entitled " Lancashire," written by the editor, the writer observes 
 this train of thought touched upon in the following lines : " This 
 question (the movement of Chinese to the West) is not a mere 
 question in the air. Nobody with a capacity for taking interest in 
 social possibilities can think without uneasiness of the slow stir 
 which has already begun to make itself felt, like the first still 
 
1 88 THE DARK SIDE. 
 
 on the influx of Chinese into Australia with as much 
 apprehension as if it were a martial invasion is wide- 
 spread, as we may judge from the statements of Mr. 
 Arthur Macalister, agent-general for Queensland. 
 In 1876, the number of Chinese in this colony did not 
 exceed 10,500. Since the opening of the Palmer 
 River Diggings, within eighteen months the influx of 
 Mongolians was considerable, and on his authority 
 they numbered no less than 30,000 in 1878. For 
 some curious particulars concerning the habits and 
 pursuits of these immigrants, the reader is referred 
 to a very interesting paper read by Mr. Macalister 
 before the Royal Colonial Institute in December, 
 1877, on "Queensland." He objects to the Chinese 
 in unmistakable language, and his descriptions of their 
 mode of life bear a close analogy to those of the 
 Board of Health at Sydney. 
 
 " Nowhere," he says, " has the Chinaman settled in 
 any considerable numbers that he has not created a 
 blot on our institutions. Even in cities, among the 
 amenities of city life, the Chinese quarter is viewed 
 with loathing. Nowhere has he blended with the 
 
 creeping of matter awakening to the conditions of organization, 
 in the vast empire of China. Of China as a probable source of 
 extreme military danger to English rule in India, this is not the 
 place to speak ; but the economic contest of the cheap races over 
 the dear is sure to come. The merchants and employers will have 
 themselves to thank. It was the shameless wars waged for the 
 extension of their markets which roused the slumbering levia- 
 than ; it was they who tapped the volcano/' 
 
LOW MORALITY. 189 
 
 Anglo-Saxon ; the interval between them is so great 
 that it cannot be passed. The progressive ideas of 
 civilization do not harmonize with those dwarfed by 
 age. They are not colonists in our acceptance of the 
 term ; they come alone, and do not bring their babies 
 or families with them. Dr. Hue asserts of them ' that 
 they are sceptical and indifferent to everything that 
 concerns the moral side of man.' And this estimate 
 of them has double force when applied in the excep- 
 tional conditions under which they live in Queensland. 
 They regard a good coffin as of more importance than 
 a correct life ; and certainly what we hear of their 
 habits, though unfit for discussion, is sufficient to 
 deter a Government from forcing them on a people 
 unwilling to receive them. They do not speak or 
 understand our language, have no desire for progress, 
 and have no conception of representative or free insti- 
 tutions. They come to Queensland for none of the 
 ordinary mechanical pursuits of life ; their secret is 
 simple enough to take possession of the gold-fields ; 
 to extract from the earth its auriferous deposits, and 
 to this extent to impoverish the country ; and having 
 done this, to return to China and there spend their 
 days. They invest no capital in our undertakings, 
 and undertake no industries of a permanent cha- 
 racter. After they have gone there is no trace of 
 their existence, not even a tombstone. Their very 
 ashes they make an effort to have transplanted to the 
 ' Flowery Land ! ' " 
 
190 A DOUBTFUL WELCOME. 
 
 This may be taken as a fair sample of the colonist's 
 view of Chinese immigration in Queensland, where 
 they perhaps find him a formidable competitor in the 
 most lucrative undertaking there gold-digging. In 
 Australia, as we have seen, he is welcomed as a 
 servant, and it would seem that in pastoral districts 
 he shows less of his offensive habits than in crowded 
 city life. Some clauses in the Chinese Immigration 
 Act, recently passed in Queensland, provide that 
 vessels bringing Chinese to any of the ports shall 
 only carry them in the proportion of one to every five 
 tons of the vessel's tonnage capacity ; thus the 
 number of passengers for a vessel of one thousand 
 tons would be limited to two hundred. The Act also 
 provides that before any Chinese shall be permitted 
 to land, the master of the vessel shall pay to the 
 Collector of Customs the sum of 10 for each, which 
 money will be returned to the passenger at any time 
 within three years, provided his character has been 
 good, and that he has entailed no expense on the 
 public revenue. 
 
 Although it would exceed the limits of this chapter 
 to follow John Chinaman to his different places of 
 exile, and to describe the varying treatment he 
 receives at the hand of races widely differing in blood 
 and religion, his experiences in America command 
 special attention, from the influence his presence 
 seems likely to exercise upon the peoples of that 
 continent. 
 
COMMISSION SENT TO CUBA. 191 
 
 In 1874 the Imperial Chinese government became 
 alarmed at the reports of the bad treatment their 
 countrymen received in Cuba, and resolved to send 
 a commission to that island, to ascertain the con- 
 dition of the coolies there. The report of this com- 
 mission, printed for the use of the government at 
 the Imperial Customs Press at Shanghai, in 1876, 
 contains the depositions of some thousands of Chinese 
 as to their position in Cuba. To guide the commis- 
 sion in their work, they were furnished with a set of 
 fifty queries, categorically arranged, on which they 
 were instructed to collect evidence. The depositions 
 and petitions show that eight-tenths of the entire 
 number of Chinese in Cuba declared that they had 
 been kidnapped or decoyed ; that the mortality 
 during the voyage, from wounds caused by blows, 
 suicide, and sickness, exceeded ten per cent. ; that 
 on arrival at Havana they were sold into slavery, 
 a small proportion being disposed of to families and 
 shops, while the large majority became the property 
 of sugar-planters ; that the cruelty displayed even 
 towards those of the former class is great, and that 
 in the latter it assumes proportions which are un- 
 endurable. The labour, too, on the plantations is 
 shown to be excessively severe, and the food insuffi- 
 cient. The hours of labour are too long, and the 
 chastisement by rods, whips, chains, stocks, etc., 
 productive of suffering and injury. During past 
 years (prior to 1874) a large number have been killed 
 
192 ILL-TREATMENT IN CUBA. 
 
 by blows, of died from the effects of wounds, and 
 have hanged themselves, cut their throats, poisoned 
 themselves with opium, and thrown themselves into 
 wells and sugar caldrons. Personal inspection veri- 
 fied the accounts of wounds inflicted by others, 
 fractured and maimed limbs, blindness, heads covered 
 with sores, teeth knocked out, ears mutilated, and 
 the skin and flesh lacerated, proofs of cruelty patent 
 to all eyes. Thus, in reply to query No. i, " From 
 what places does Cuba draw coolies ? " the petition 
 of Li Chaoch'in and 165 others states : 
 
 " We were at various times brought by force to or 
 decoyed intothebarracoons of Macao, by certain vicious 
 men of our own nation, suborned by Portuguese." 
 
 The petition of Hsien Tso-pang and sixteen others 
 states that : 
 
 " The foreigners of Macao sent out vicious Chinese 
 in order to kidnap and decoy men, and to place them 
 in barracoons, and on board of ships, from which they 
 cannot escape, chastising them without restraint, and 
 conveying them against their will to Havana ; after 
 removing their queues and changing their clothing, 
 to offer them for sale in the men market." 
 
 The petition of Tiao Mu and three others states : 
 
 "Vicious men have at various times decoyed here 
 tens and hundreds of thousands of peasants : " 
 
 That of P'an T'ai and eighty-nine others states : 
 
 " Misled by fair words, or decoyed, we were brought 
 here to be sold as slaves." 
 
DISHONEST CONTRACTS. 193 
 
 Again, it is gathered from the 1176 depositions 
 which have been recorded, that of those who sailed 
 from Macao, Wen Changt'ai and sixty-five others 
 were kidnapped ; that Tseng Erhch'i and 689 others 
 were decoyed ; that Lai A-gui and fifty others were 
 entrapped into signing contracts in the belief that 
 they were merely doing so in the place of others 
 temporarily absent ; that Huang A-mu and ninety- 
 three others were the victims of various snares ten- 
 dered to them after they had gambled and lost ; and 
 that Ch'en and sixty-five others emigrated volun- 
 tarily. Of those who sailed from Amoy, Su A-hai 
 and eleven others were kidnapped, Tang-chien and 
 twenty-two others were decoyed, Lindtieng and ten 
 others were the victims of various snares tendered 
 to them after they had gambled and lost, and Huang 
 Shuit'on with five others emigrated voluntarily. 
 
 In answer to query No. 7, " During the agreement 
 term, what is his (the coolie's) position ? " Li Chao- 
 ch'em and 165 others depose that : 
 
 " Ninety per cent, are disposed of to the sugar 
 plantations. There the owners rely on the adminis- 
 trator for the production of a large crop of sugar, 
 and the administrator looks to the overseers to 
 exact the greatest possible amount of labour. They 
 all think only of the profit to be gained, and are 
 indifferent as to our lives. It matters not whether 
 the workmen are miserable or contented, whether 
 they starve or have enough to eat, whether they 
 
 O 
 
1 94 SLA VE-DRIVING. 
 
 live or die. The administrator who gives only four 
 unripe bananas as a meal is considered an able 
 servant, and if he gives only three he is regarded as 
 still more efficient. The administrator who forces 
 the Chinese to work twenty hours out of the twenty- 
 four is a man of capacity ; if he extorts twenty-one 
 hours, his qualities are of a still higher order ; but he 
 may strike, or flog, or chain us as his fancy suggests 
 to him. If we complain of sickness, we are beaten or 
 starved ; if we work slowly, dogs are urged after us 
 to bite us. Those of us who are employed on farms 
 or coffee estates, in sugar warehouses and brick kilns, 
 on railways and in bakers', cigar stores, hat and other 
 shops, are in each of these places of service ill-treated, 
 flogged, confined in stocks and in gaol, and tortured 
 in every way as on the plantations." 
 
 The writer is taking evidence at haphazard from the 
 report it is all in the same strain, speaking first of 
 the guile practised in decoying the Chinaman from his 
 home, and then of the cruel treatment dealt out to 
 him in exile. It seems incredible that in this nine- 
 teenth century such outrages against humanity should 
 be committed day after day in a civilized land within 
 the dominion of a Christian state. Except un- 
 authenticated rumours, the world at large has heard 
 nothing of what is going on in Cuba. The Chinese 
 Commissioners' Report, it should be remembered, was 
 printed solely for the use of the Chinese government, 
 and it has not been put into public circulation to this 
 
CONTRACTS NOT FULFILLED. 195 
 
 day (1884). Possibly the Spanish government has 
 shared this ignorance, seeing that the laws which it 
 has enacted for regulating the immigration are drawn 
 up with the manifest intention of protecting the 
 coolie from the exactions of unscrupulous masters. 
 Unfortunately the troubled state of the island renders 
 the enforcement of these laws a mere farce, and through 
 the corruption of the officials the laws .themselves 
 are used as devices for extracting from the coolie his 
 hardly earned savings. Thus, in answer to query 
 No. 9, "If the employers violate the stipulation, what 
 redress has the coolie by law ? " Wu A-fa and thirty- 
 nine others state : 
 
 " Foreigners in no way consider themselves bound 
 by the provisions of the contracts. After the eight 
 years (the customary duration of the contract, five 
 being the legal limit) are completed, they refuse us 
 the cedulas, and we are forced to remain slaves in 
 perpetuity." 
 
 Lo A'voh deposes : 
 
 " On the expiration of my contract, I was sent to 
 a dep6t where I passed four months. I was then 
 removed by my master, who forced me to labour in 
 chains during three months. He daily beats me, 
 and yesterday beat me with great severity. Five 
 months have now elapsed, during which no wages 
 have been issued to me. On account of this and the 
 other ill-usage, I requested a fellow-workman to, on 
 my behalf, lay a complaint before the officials. He 
 
196 MANY WITNESSES. 
 
 has done so on three occasions, and in each instance 
 it has been rejected, and I have thus to go on 
 labouring, whilst, if I ask for wages, the threat of 
 chaining is made. I, in all earnestness, now meditate 
 suicide." 
 
 Ho Assu deposes : 
 
 "At the end of the eight years no cedula was 
 supplied to me, and I was forced to work for another 
 term of four years. A few days ago I asked my 
 master for a cedula, and was told by him that I had 
 to serve for other six years. If this be the case, 
 suicide is the best course open to me." 
 
 As an example of the work the coolie performs, 
 the petition of Wang A-ching and twenty-two others 
 may be quoted. It states : 
 
 "The work is very hard. We get up at three 
 a.m. and labour until noon ; at one p.m. we resume 
 work until seven. Then we rest half an hour, and 
 are allowed a ration of maize, after which work is 
 continued up till midnight." Wang A-ching con- 
 tinues : 
 
 " We are struck and flogged, and out of pur party 
 of more than two hundred men, only about eighty 
 remain." 
 
 In addition to enduring all these miseries, the 
 coolie is fleeced of his hard-earned wages by the 
 abominable "truck" system, which prevails through- 
 out these Cuban plantations. Liang A-chao deposes : 
 
 " On the plantation is a shop owned by the master, 
 
THE " TRUCK" SYSTEM. 197 
 
 at which all our purchases have to be effected ; the 
 prices are very high." 
 
 T'ang Ming-kwei says : 
 
 " Monthly as wages we receive four tickets, which 
 can only be employed in payment of purchases at 
 the plantation shop. Elsewhere they cannot be used, 
 nor is it possible to change them for bank-notes 
 (money)." 
 
 These brief extracts may suffice to show the 
 depths of degradation and misery to which poor 
 humanity can be subjected through the avarice and 
 cruelty of a wealthy band of agriculturists. 
 
 More to the credit of humanity is the treatment 
 of the coolie in the sugar plantations in Peru, where, 
 though economy is practised, it is not carried to such 
 an excess. There the labourer is allowed two pounds 
 weight of peeled rice per diem and one pound of 
 goat's flesh, which last he sometimes barters for 
 opium. His work hours are from six a.m. to five p.m., 
 with an interval from eleven o'clock till one, when 
 he cooks and eats his food. There is a hospital 
 for the sick, and a doctor to attend them. In conse- 
 quence his working powers are greater, and his intel- 
 ligence more alert for his master's interests ; in fact, 
 he has been known to volunteer the extra work of 
 cutting down timber on a clearing instead of burning 
 it, pointing out that the value of the wood thus 
 obtained more than compensates for the time lost 
 in felling it. His neatness in gardening is proverbial, 
 
198 BETTER TREATMENT IN PERU. 
 
 and much may safely be left to his own discretion in 
 working. So though on some haciendas he is roughly 
 treated, as a rule he leads a peaceable, hard-working 
 life, and cases of insubordination are rare in Peru. 
 
 Of the 68,825 Chinese who were in Cuba at the 
 time of the commissioners' visit, only three were 
 married to Chinese women, one to a white, and " half 
 a dozen or so " to mulattoes and negresses. The same 
 paucity of marriages is found in Victoria. The 
 number of Chinese males who married in that colony 
 during the eleven years ending in 1876 was 197. Of 
 these 107 married Australians, 43 Englishwomen, 21 
 Irish, 14 Scotch, and only three united themselves 
 with females of their own race. The number of such 
 marriages in 1876 was 14, less than any year since 
 1 868. For detailed statistics, the reader may consult 
 the Victorian Year Book for 1876-77. 
 
 Decidedly John Chinaman fares worse in Cuba 
 than in any other country he frequents. The author 
 did not see a single example of such harrowing 
 misery on all the sugar estates, railway, harbour, 
 sanitary, and other works which he visited in Peru, 
 where Chinese are extensively employed for all these 
 purposes. In some places, no doubt, the coolie was 
 indifferently fed and overworked, but these were the 
 exception. He does not wish these observations to be 
 taken as contradicting in any sense the statements 
 made in Consul March's noticeable report to the 
 Foreign Office, dated Callao, February, 1876. In 
 
GUANO WORKS, 199 
 
 that report Mr. March writes, page 1521 of the Blue 
 Book (Nov. 1 6, 1876) : 
 
 "Many of these Chinamen are engaged in the 
 guano deposits, and from personal knowledge I can 
 state that their lot in these dreary spots is a most 
 unhappy one. Besides being worked almost to 
 death, they have neither sufficient food nor passably 
 wholesome water. Their rations consist of two 
 pounds of rice and about half a pound of meat. 
 This is generally served out to them between ten and 
 eleven in the morning, by which time they have got 
 through six hours' work. Each man is compelled 
 to clear from four to five tons of guano a day. During 
 the last quarter of 1875, it is reported that there were 
 355 Chinamen employed at Pabellon de Pica alone, 
 of whom no less than 98 were in the hospital. The 
 general sickness is swelled legs, caused, it is supposed, 
 by drinking condensed water not sufficiently cooled, 
 and by a lack of vegetable diet. The features of this 
 disease are not unlike those of scurvy or purpura." 
 
 Unfortunately, climatic conditions must always 
 render the working of guano beds, at these desert spots 
 of the Peruvian coast, a task of excessive privation 
 and hardship to the workmen employed, of whatever 
 nationality they may be. The absence of one of the 
 chief necessities of life, fresh water, and the pernicious 
 influence of a tropical sun, are obstacles prejudicial 
 to the comfort of the labourers, which the most well- 
 meaning of task-masters often fail to counteract in 
 
200 BALANCE OF POWER. 
 
 Peru as well as elsewhere. The mode of contract is 
 the same as in Cuba, but fortunately the masters are 
 kinder and more considerate, and cases of " insubor- 
 dination " are rare. The writer remembers but one, 
 and that was at the Hacienda de Pucala, in the province 
 of Lambayeque, when the owner was killed by his 
 Chinese, who rose in revolt against his persecutions. 
 As a rule they are well treated and contented. It is 
 the custom there to put in practice the theory known 
 as the " balance of power ; " thus, for every hundred 
 Chinese employed on the estate, they have an equal 
 number of peones, and at least fifty negroes or 
 mulattoes. The blacks, who are quarrelsome and 
 hate the " yellows," are physically twice as strong ; 
 thus, in a fight, the combatants are balanced, the 
 pacific peones being held as a sort of reserve guard 
 to keep the peace and protect the owners' interests. 
 
 Once, in travelling through the Andes from Lima 
 (which journey is described in the following chapter), 
 we passed a camp of coolies employed on the railway 
 works a little beyond Matucanas ; a little further on 
 were some Chilians engaged in a similar manner, who 
 deeply resented the employment of the Asiatics. A 
 day or so afterwards we heard that a fight had broken 
 out between the rival camps, in which several were 
 killed on both sides: This state of feeling has been 
 going on for years in California, and still continues. 
 
 It is noticeable that the only convention which has 
 been ratified between China and a foreign Power rela- 
 
THE PERUVIAN CONVENTION. 201 
 
 live to the importation of indentured Chinese subjects 
 is one with Peru, dated Tientsin, January, 1875.* The 
 Spanish "Tientsin " Treaty of 1867 contains a clause 
 permitting Chinese subjects to emigrate to Spanish 
 colonies, but does not contain the privileges specified 
 in the Peruvian Convention. 
 
 In this treaty Chinese emigrants are placed on 
 an equality as regards legal procedure with the native 
 citizens, and have access to the courts of justice. 
 Their employers must provide them with a return 
 passage on the expiry of their contract ; and in 
 default of such stipulation, the government under- 
 takes to pay their passage money. Further, for 
 their better protection, the Peruvian government is 
 to appoint official interpreters of the Chinese language 
 in the prefectures of those departments of Peru which 
 are the great centres of immigration. So far the 
 convention contains only what is good ; the objec- 
 tion lies in its omissions. 
 
 Both the Spanish and British Colonial govern- 
 ments, who receive coolies from India and China, 
 have fixed regulations for the traffic. How far these 
 regulations have been observed is shown by the 
 Report of the Commission sent to Demerara by Lord 
 Granville, in 1870, which has already been critically 
 
 * "Treaties between the Empire of China and Foreign 
 Powers." Edited by W. F. Mayers (Shanghai, 1877). The 
 British "Pekin Conventions" of 1866 and 1869 relative to 
 coolies have not been ratified by the British government. 
 
202 IRRESPONSIBLE POWER. 
 
 analyzed, principally in an able review of the com- 
 missioners' labours, entitled " The Coolie, his Rights 
 and Wrongs," written by Mr. Edward Jenkins, M.P. 
 
 The Cuban report, to which reference is made in 
 this chapter, shows how far regulations similar to 
 those in British Guiana are observed, or rather neg- 
 lected, in Spanish colonies. It is to be feared that 
 the coolie benefits very little by laws and regulations 
 contrived for his benefit, in however just and humane 
 a spirit they may be constructed. Carried off to 
 distant plantations, often beyond the reach of the 
 law, he is totally at his master's mercy, and on his 
 humanity, or lack of it, the labourer's fate depends. 
 Too great power often leads to its abuse, and in too 
 many instances the planters and their agents look 
 upon the coolies as beasts of burden from which so 
 much daily toil has to be extracted : on the other hand, 
 we have examples (and many could be cited) where 
 the coolie is kindly and humanely treated, and where 
 conscience forms a better safeguard for the depen- 
 dants than laws can do. But for the inhuman 
 monsters of the class which certainly exists in Cuba, 
 stringent rules are necessary, and a closer system 
 of inspection, which should hold the owner re- 
 sponsible for the good treatment of his servants, 
 and punish with fine or imprisonment any flagrant 
 act of cruelty or neglect to provide the necessaries 
 of life. The subject is one of immense importance, 
 and it is to be hoped that any future convention 
 
THE PEKIN CONVENTION. 203 
 
 between China and foreign Powers will contain strin- 
 gent clauses to this effect, as a simple question of 
 common justice towards her teeming population. 
 New fields are daily opening for the employment 
 of Asiatic labour, and in this age of steam and 
 rapid locomotion fresh difficulties must arise from the 
 social changes operating under our very eyes. But 
 in this chapter the writer has restricted himself to 
 giving in a concise form the most reliable informa- 
 tion concerning the habits and condition of the coolie 
 in different parts of the globe. The picture is not 
 a bright one ! 
 
 One word in conclusion upon the convention 
 negotiated by Sir Rutherford Alcock at Pekin in 
 1866, which has, however, not yet been ratified by 
 the British government. It contains a set of regula- 
 tions " to secure for the Chinese emigrants those 
 safeguards which are required for their moral and 
 physical well-being." The term of service, usually 
 extended to eight years, is by this convention fixed 
 at five, after which the emigrant, should he decline 
 to contract for five more years, can claim his passage- 
 money back to China. Other clauses protect the 
 coolie against deception as to the nature of the 
 contract offered to him, and render it obligatory 
 that the contracts shall specify the wages, rations, 
 and clothing offered, and secure him medical atten- 
 dance, etc. The hours for work are also restricted. 
 There can be no doubt that the ratification of this 
 
204 PROTECTION OF THE COOLIE. 
 
 convention by the Britfsh government would greatly 
 improve the tone of the coolie traffic now carried 
 on between China and certain British colonies. But 
 it is open to emendation. While it shows an intimate 
 acquaintance with the devices and duplicity employed 
 in China to induce natives to leave their homes, and 
 provides for the counteraction of such practices, it 
 takes little account of the coolie after he has left, 
 excepting in Art. XXI L, which enacts that in the 
 distribution of labourers the husband shall not be 
 separated from the wife, nor parents from those of 
 their children who are under fifteen years of age ; 
 also that no labourer shall be made to change his 
 employer without his own consent, unless in the case 
 of the plantation changing hands. With these excep- 
 tions the coolie is left at the mercy of the laws in 
 whatever colony or country he chooses or is sent to 
 frequently under false pretences. What kind of 
 treatment is sometimes dealt out to him under these 
 local governments, subject as they must be to the all- 
 powerful influence of the " planters," we have seen 
 from the report of the Demerara Commission, and 
 from others to which reference has been made. The 
 Peruvian envoy who negotiated the Tientsin Conven- 
 tion of 1875 between his own country and China had 
 some practical experience of the clemency coolies re- 
 ceive at the hands of their drivers. Article VII. of that 
 convention declares, " The Peruvian government will 
 appoint official interpreters of the Chinese language in 
 
WOULD HE "DO" IN ENGLAND. 205 
 
 the prefectures of all departments of Peru where the 
 great centres of Chinese immigration exist ; " and the 
 subsequent clauses recognize the urgency of an agree- 
 ment by the high contracting Power receiving the im- 
 migrants to protect them from " vicious " masters. 
 
 The day may yet be distant when John China- 
 man shall be working in our own coal mines and 
 factories, or domesticated in English homes. That 
 many of our countrymen would welcome his intro- 
 duction there is very sufficient evidence already. It 
 has been calculated that, allowing 100 or 150 as 
 the cost of bringing him to England as a labourer 
 by contract, his five years' labour would amply repay 
 his employer for the outlay ; also that he would 
 supply a growing want in the labour market. How- 
 ever this may be, many of our countrymen in the 
 colonies rely entirely on the Chinaman's assistance 
 for the conduct of their business as well as for 
 domestic comfort. With such good grounds of re- 
 commendation, he has strong claims on our notice. 
 Let us hope that his persistence in pushing Westward 
 Ho may excite more welcome than apprehension.* 
 
 * The writer was much struck at the last Paris Exhibition 
 upon seeing the high prices commanded by the Chinese and 
 Japanese exhibitors for their porcelain and cabinet wares. The 
 originality of design and excellence of workmanship evinced in 
 these exhibits elicited, it may be said, universal praise ; and in 
 these branches of art, the time would seem to be yet a long 
 way off before the " Celestials" are likely to be beaten by their 
 European competitors. 
 
2o6 TRADES-UNIONISTS, BEWARE! 
 
 But let our artisans beware, lest, presuming on their 
 power to extort higher and higher wages by placing 
 their employers on the horns of a dilemma, they go 
 just a little too far, and induce a combination among 
 their employers which may result in their work being 
 quietly taken out of their hands by the supple fingers 
 and more easily contented mind of John Chinaman. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 A RAILROAD ACROSS THE ANDES. 
 
 Up the Andes The River Rimac Surco Hill Stations The 
 Quebrada Matucanas Governor's H ospitality Pictur- 
 esque Country Steep Ascent Zigzagging Sure-footed 
 Mules San Mateo A Stone Staircase" La Infernilla " 
 Chilka Llamas. 
 
 IN these days of travelling by steam, when every one 
 goes everywhere, and when mountain peaks for ages 
 looked upon as inaccessible, are climbed one after the 
 other by some indefatigable member of the Alpine 
 Club ; perhaps some account of a ride across a most 
 difficult and comparatively little known country may 
 be read with interest 
 
 In 1873, the author had an opportunity, through 
 the courtesy of Mr. John Meiggs (brother to the late 
 Mr. Henry Meiggs, railway contractor), of tracing the 
 course of the beautiful river Rimac, in Peru, to its 
 source, and also of ascending to the summit of perhaps 
 the most beautiful chain of mountains in the world. 
 
 The Rimac divides the city of Lima into two 
 unequal portions, which have for centuries been con- 
 
208 BRIDGE OVER THE RIM AC. 
 
 nected by a fine stone bridge 530 feet long, having 
 six arches, and resembling in style the " Old Bridge " 
 at Chester. The larger and more important " quar- 
 tier " lies on the south (or left) bank, reaching as far 
 as the Oroya railroad ; the smaller suburb of San 
 Lazaro, north of the river, nestles at the foot of the 
 granitic hills, which, overhanging the city on three 
 sides, may partly account for its close damp climate. 
 In the dry season, the river dwindles to numerous 
 shallow channels, and the huge banks of boulders and 
 sand which are then visible show the varieties of 
 material brought down by it in flood time. Above 
 the old bridge, both banks are fringed with willow 
 trees and shrubbery, which cause no little damage by 
 obstructing the flow, when the stream is swollen by 
 melted snow from the Andes. 
 
 In company with an engineer officer belonging to the 
 Peruvian Government, the writer left Lima on Mon- 
 day, July 21, 1873, at eight a.m., arriving at Surco, the 
 then terminus of the railway, at two p.m. This station 
 is 56 miles from Callao, and 6655 feet above sea level. 
 We had passed the stations of Quiroz, Santa Clara, 
 La Chosica, Boca Chacra, and San Bartolome, the 
 " reversing station," the formation of the Quebrada * 
 not admitting of the direct prolongation of the line. 
 So far, the road generally follows the left bank of the 
 Rimac, and is " walled in " on both sides by high 
 
 * Literally " rent " (in the mountain), the Spanish term for a 
 gorge. 
 
MEETING OF THE WATERS. 209 
 
 thickets of cane, willow, or reeds, excluding the 
 breeze and adding to the oppressive heat. The level 
 plain behind Lima was however soon traversed, and 
 we entered the Quebrada of Matucanas, where the 
 hillsides are grey and barren, and the low ground 
 covered with sand, or debris from the heights. In 
 some places the lower slopes of the hills are seen to 
 be terraced with stone walls, built by the provident 
 Incas, who thus, wherever practicable, increased the 
 area of cultivable ground. 
 
 At San Pedro Mama, the two rivers, San Mateo 
 and Santa Olaya, join the Rimac, already swollen to 
 a considerable size by a multitude of rivulets trickling 
 down the sides of the Quebrada. At La Chosica, a 
 grand hotel (brought piecemeal from the United 
 States) was erected in the hope of attracting visitors 
 from Lima to enjoy the delightful climate and lovely 
 scenery at this height, 2800 feet. Leaving the rail- 
 way at Surco, we transferred ourselves and our 
 baggage to mules, provided ourselves with a guide, 
 and continued our journey, passing along a narrow 
 track on the left slope of the Quebrada ; at one time 
 contouring the hillside at a height of several hundred 
 feet and again descending to the valley, clambering 
 over large boulders and the rough stony bed of a 
 mountain torrent At six p m., we drew rein at Matu- 
 canas, a picturesque mountain village 7788 feet above 
 sea level, consisting of a church and houses built of 
 adobe, or sun-dried bricks, and thatched with straw. 
 
 P 
 
210 SCANTY HOSPITALITY. 
 
 The population is about three hundred. A , 
 
 knowing the custom of the country, led the way at 
 once to the governor's house, before he could have 
 time to hear of our arrival and hide, as he probably 
 would, to avoid being called upon for a hospitality 
 frequently ill requited. Luckily we found him stand- 
 ing at his own door, wrapped in a warm poncho, with 
 straw hat closely pressed over his forehead. " Senor 
 
 Gobernador," said A , " this gentleman and myself 
 
 are travelling on a government commission, and beg 
 you to give us posada (lodging) for ourselves, and 
 fodder for our mules." This appeal elicited a reply 
 to the effect that " he regretted the inadequacy of his 
 own house, but would do his best to accommodate us 
 elsewhere." We were then conducted to the village 
 school, the tables and forms in which, the governor 
 observed, would serve admirably for couches. Our 
 sleeping quarters being thus settled, if not to our own 
 satisfaction, at least to that of the governor, we dined 
 at an hotel kept by a French cook, lately from Cali- 
 fornia. If he continues to treat the railway workers 
 as well as he regaled us that night, he certainly 
 deserves by this time to have made good progress in 
 that pursuit termed by the Americans " making your 
 pile." 
 
 Early next morning we left Matucanas, the Que- 
 brada soon becoming a narrow gorge with steep 
 precipitous sides, rising to one thousand feet or more. 
 Here there is more verdure, and the country is prettier 
 
TAMBO DE VISO. 211 
 
 than the sun-burnt slopes round Surco. Many streams 
 pour through fissures in the rock into the river, where 
 clumps of willow and masses of waterweed grow in 
 profusion. Here and there the red thorn-apple clings 
 to the steep declivities, besides a thousand varieties 
 of Alpine plants and flowers. The native Indians 
 make a drink called tonga from this apple. It is 
 powerfully narcotic, and they imagine that by its 
 means they are brought into communication with 
 departed spirits. 
 
 We reached Tambo de Viso at ten a.m., going at 
 once to the house of the engineer in charge of that sec- 
 tion of the railroad, M. Van Brock, well known in 
 the United States for his wide professional experience. 
 From the balcony we observed the grading of the 
 railroad on the opposite side of the river. Here the 
 ascent is made by tracing the line in the form of a Z 
 on the hillside. The grading is commenced on the 
 higher bar and continued along the diagonal, after 
 which the lower bar is formed. In this way, the 
 lower portion of the figure is not buried under the 
 material thrown out of the higher. At each angle a 
 spur of sufficient length enables the driver of the train 
 to reverse its direction, by "backing" along the 
 diagonal, to resume its onward course on the higher 
 bar. Another instance of this zigzagging occurs 
 between Tambo de Viso and San Mateo, which is 
 necessary in order to keep the gradient within the 
 limits of 4 in 100, the maximum considered workable. 
 
212 ZIGZAGGING. 
 
 In this latitude the summit line of the Cordillera 
 approaches nearer the sea-coast than in any other 
 part of Peru, and from this pass of Antaragua, where 
 the Rimac takes its rise, to Callao, the distance is less 
 than 90 miles. The fall being over 15,500 feet, it 
 follows that the normal slope of the pass corresponds 
 to a rise of 3^ feet for every 100 feet in length. But 
 nature has broken the incline by deep depressions and 
 sudden risings, which necessarily affect the grading of 
 the railroad, and in places where a deep valley occurs, 
 the line is seen high on the hillside, contouring the slope, 
 here sweeping round a hollow, there tunnelling through 
 projecting ridges. The best grade was obtained by 
 extending the length of the line to 104 miles between 
 Callao and the summit ; this on the rough section of 
 the Quebrada allowed an average gradient of I in 25, 
 or 4 per cent, but in places this is increased to 5 per 
 cent* Some portions presented unusual difficulties, 
 both for the survey and location of the road bed. 
 Beyond Tambo de Viso, the abrupt sides of the cliff 
 offered no footing at all for either purpose, and the 
 exact spot which the line should strike could only be 
 reached by lowering men with ropes from above. A 
 foothold being cut in the rock-face, afforded holding 
 for a wire cable, which connected the workings with 
 
 * Peru is famous for possessing many steep railways. At 
 places, the Iquique and La Noria Railway (described in the 
 following chapter) has a rise of 5 per cent., or i in 20. The 
 " Fairlie " engine has done good service on that line as well as 
 elsewhere. 
 
TRACES OF VOLCANIC AGENCY. 213 
 
 the bottom of the ravine, where the workmen's huts 
 lay ; the men were raised and lowered to their work 
 in a swinging cage, which travelled up and down the 
 suspended wire. The workings are all in granite 
 rock sparingly covered with earth, and much gun- 
 powder is daily consumed in blasting the rock. 
 Porphyry, granite crossed with quartz veins, varieties 
 of marble, slate, and in parts red and yellow sand- 
 stone, are packed together in irregular and uneven 
 masses, twisted and distorted by volcanic action, or 
 broken and smoothed by floods. In places, a sheer 
 height of one thousand feet rises from the bottom 
 of the ravine with smooth unscalable sides ; at 
 other points the precipice is broken into uneven 
 rock-strewn steps, to climb which endangers both life 
 and limb. These are some of the difficulties in the 
 way of constructing the railway through this broken 
 country. 
 
 The mule track between Tambo de Viso and 
 San Mateo, a distance of only nine miles, is on 
 account of these obstacles considered the most dan- 
 gerous portion of the whole road, the mules having 
 often to scramble over beds of boulders washed 
 down by the stream, or jump from rock to rock at 
 the bottom of the ravine. At places the track is 
 interrupted by immense avalanches of rock block- 
 ing the way, and a climb of several hundred feet in 
 zigzag fashion up the hillside must be performed by 
 the persevering surefooted animals. A mere shelf 
 
214 SUREFOOTED MULES. 
 
 along the side of the precipice next serves as path- 
 way, and frequently, in rounding projecting corners or 
 a spur of the cliff, the rider experiences the unpleasant 
 sensation of finding one leg suspended over a yawn- 
 ing precipice. To the novice in Cordillera travelling 
 these " corners," as they are termed, are startling 
 enough, the road being only visible for one or two 
 feet ahead ; but the mule goes straight on as if he 
 intended walking calmly over the edge, till at the 
 angle he swerves suddenly round, with a sang-froid 
 rarely shared by his rider. 
 
 At three p.m., we reached San Mateo, the largest 
 village in this "valley," 10,530 feet above the sea. 
 Potatoes, ullucas, maize and lucerne are grown 
 here more or less successfully. It is the last town 
 on this side the Cordillera and lies just below the 
 snow limit. Between San Mateo and Tarma, on the 
 eastern slope, no provision or accommodation of any 
 kind can be obtained at the few intervening Indian 
 villages. We passed the night at the house of the 
 railway superintendent, who lives here with his wife 
 and another American lady. It was pleasant to find 
 an orderly and well-regulated household in the heart 
 of the Andes, and to talk over New York, its Central 
 Park, and the doings of Broadway "in the good old 
 times," with men who knew them well. The house- 
 hold is composed of American engineers and their 
 assistants engaged on the railroad works. 
 
 After leaving San Mateo, the track enters a deep 
 
LA INFERNILLA STAIRCASE. 215 
 
 dark ravine, apparently formed by the splitting asunder 
 of the mountain, the sides being as smooth and sharp 
 as if cut with a knife. The black walls draw nearer 
 together as we climb higher, till they end in a fork, up 
 which the pathway rises in steps for some two hundred 
 feet. It is but a rough stone ladder, partly hewn 
 out of the solid rock, partly formed by placing slabs 
 of stone, and up it the mules mount, leaping from 
 step to step like so many goats, first placing their 
 forefeet on the ledge in front, often three feet high, 
 then with a spring bringing their hind feet to the 
 same level, immediately attacking the next step in 
 the like fashion. This "staircase" is called "La 
 Infernilla " (Hell), and from the many accidents 
 occurring, the insecure footing being rendered doubly 
 difficult by a heavy flood of water continually pour- 
 ing down the pathway, it well merits the name. 
 
 On reaching the top of this ladder, the whole 
 character of the scenery changes. The Quebrada, 
 with its smooth walls, is succeeded by the round- 
 shaped undulating hills of the Sierra, clothed with 
 itchu grass. Two leagues beyond San Mateo we 
 reach Chilka, a mere roadside halting-place for the 
 llamas and alpacas which carry wood and minerals 
 from the interior to San Mateo. Here we rested 
 with the "captain" of the station in charge of the mules, 
 etc., belonging to the railroad. The thermometer 
 stood at fifty-five degrees at six p.m., and fell during 
 the night to freezing-point, when we were glad to 
 
216 LLAMAS. 
 
 heap alpaca skins for warmth over the rugs we had 
 brought with us. The only business of the place is 
 housing and feeding the llamas, numbers of which 
 congregated round our sleeping quarters. Always 
 a lovely creature to view, easily managed and tamed, 
 the llama is the stock beast of burden in the interior 
 of Peru, and together with its relations the alpaca, 
 the huanaca, and vicuna, is exceedingly valuable for 
 its wool. In a country so thinly wooded as the 
 Western Cordillera, the llamas are, perhaps, equally 
 valued by the natives for the fuel supplied by their 
 taquia, or dung, the habit of these animals being 
 always to deposit that substance in the same place, 
 so that huge mounds of taquia are found along their 
 line of march. Mr. A. J. Duffield, the author of an in- 
 teresting little book entitled " Peru in the Guano Age," 
 tells the writer (what he has not yet told the public) 
 that he made an effort to introduce this animal into 
 Australia. He collected a number at Sucre, in Bo- 
 livia, and shipped them at Cobija. But at this stage, 
 misfortune in the shape of bad weather overtook the 
 enterprise, and the ship being delayed on its voyage, 
 great mortality ensued among the llamas. The 
 failure here seems to have been the result of accident, 
 and does not therefore preclude hopes of ultimate 
 success, though it would be well to ascertain whether 
 the animal would thrive deprived of his natural food, 
 the itchu, or native grass, said to be peculiar to the 
 Peruvian Cordillera. Mr. Duffield was engaged for 
 
ACCHAHUARI. 217 
 
 four years in this undertaking, and we may hope he 
 will one day give publicity to his experience, which 
 cannot fail to be of great and general interest, the 
 wool of the vicuna family being of finer texture than 
 that of any other species of sheep on the habitable globe. 
 
 We rose early next day, and pricking on our 
 mules, soon reached the Cordillera proper ; this name 
 being limited by most writers to the portion of the 
 Andes which is perpetually covered with snow. Two 
 miles beyond Chilka, we passed through a village of 
 Indian huts called Acchahuari, which appeared to be 
 deserted, except for two men sitting by a wall, chew- 
 ing coca, which they mixed with lime held in small 
 gourds the rest of the inhabitants were probably 
 working in the fields. This coca-chewing takes the 
 place of the short pipe with our English labourer, and 
 perhaps of the more palatable cigar with ourselves ; 
 the Indian, when resting or ruminating, has generally 
 recourse to this narcotic, which is pleasant to the 
 taste and stimulating to the mind and body. 
 
 A thin sheet of snow covered the ground, and 
 perfect silence reigned at this elevation, undisturbed 
 even by the bleat of a llama. Some plots of ground 
 near the village were planted with maize and potatoes, 
 and shallow acequias, or water-courses, served to 
 irrigate the ground along the hill slopes. 
 
 Beyond Acchahuari, the valley spreads out into 
 the shape of a bowl, closing at a distance of some 
 three miles into the topmost ridge of the Cordillera. 
 
2i8 PASS OF ANTARAGUA. 
 
 We reached the encampment on the top at eleven a.m., 
 where we found a Mr. Toboa, an M.D., and a clerk in 
 charge of the station. Here the height of the railway 
 reached 15,645 feet above sea level; a tunnel was 
 being pierced through the crown of the mountain, 
 the construction of which was in this wise. First, a 
 drift way was driven for a distance of forty-four metres 
 by hand-tooling, the workmen being experienced 
 miners, receiving as pay 2*50 soles (about 10^.) per 
 day. Thirteen hundred feet is to be the total length 
 of the tunnel, which at the time of our visit it was 
 proposed to bore with diamond drills, set in motion by 
 machinery worked by compressed air. The plant had 
 arrived, and it was hoped would soon be in operation. 
 The view from the Pass of Antaragua is disap- 
 pointing, the hills around, limiting its extent, being 
 themselves rounder and less picturesque in form than 
 the broken and contorted peaks sometimes seen in 
 a volcanic country. The day was cloudy, and a chill- 
 ing wind swept over the snow-covered landscape. 
 For some distance the pass is bare of vegetation, and 
 travellers are said to hurry across without looking 
 behind, reluctant to spend more time than necessary 
 in so forbidding and uncongenial a spot. Added 
 to this, most people suffer more or less from sorroche, 
 or veta, that is, mountain-sickness caused according 
 to some by the rarefaction of the air at such a height, 
 by others attributed to the presence of minerals in- 
 jurious to health ; an additional reason for hastening 
 
RAREFIED AIR. 
 
 219 
 
 to leave the summit. One of our party was seized 
 with sorroche immediately on arriving, and only 
 recovered next day, when we had descended several 
 hundred feet on our way to the coast. Within a 
 stone's throw to northward of our position, and a 
 little below, were the eternal glaciers. We could see 
 also the watershed of the country, with streams flow- 
 ing east and west, the former falling into the Atlantic, 
 the latter into the Pacific Ocean. To the left in 
 a hollow, overhung by the topmost ridge, a small 
 lakelet contributed its waters to the Rimac ; on the 
 right, springs flowed out of the rock and trickled 
 down the hillside, humble tributaries of the mighty 
 Amazon. On the western slope the Rimac is fed by 
 nine lakes at different elevations, varying from 14,065 
 to 15,968 feet above sea level. Notwithstanding 
 these great heights, the climate is mild, and the lakes 
 are never frozen. The amount of water calculated 
 to be in each is set forth in the following table, also 
 the head of water : 
 
 
 
 
 Head, in feet. 
 
 Cubic feet of water 
 available. 
 
 Pirhua 
 
 
 
 16*4 
 
 17,481,000 
 
 Manca 
 
 
 
 34'45 
 
 36,022,000 
 
 Huachua 
 
 
 
 1378 
 
 38,600,000 
 
 Piuro 
 
 
 
 34-45 
 
 6l,l67,000 
 
 Misa ... 
 
 
 
 16-40 
 
 21,683,000 
 
 Huasca 
 
 
 
 2I-32 
 
 190,421,000 
 
 Carpa 
 
 
 
 52-49 
 
 737,952,000 
 
 Guisha 
 
 
 
 54I3 
 
 350,365,000 
 
 Sacra 
 
 
 
 
 200.233,000 
 
220 THE OROYA RAILWAY. 
 
 The numerous traces of old channels along the 
 course of the Rimac show clearly that in former times 
 its waters must considerably have exceeded their 
 present amount. Indeed, the large area of cultivable 
 land, which the Incas obtained by terracing both sides 
 of the Quebrada, much in the same way as the banks 
 of the Rhine are terraced, could not have been fer- 
 tilized by the present scanty supply of water, barely 
 sufficient as it is for the present population of the 
 valley, and for the estates near the capital. But in 
 a volcanic district the whole face of the country may 
 be changed in a day ; and shortly after our return 
 to Lima, this was exemplified by a landslip which 
 occurred near the village of Matucanas, damming up 
 the river, and spreading across the Quebrada, thus 
 forming a new lake a mile or so in diameter. It was 
 a striking instance of sudden transformation in the 
 natural features of the country. 
 
 The idea of the Oroya railway originated in a 
 bold, if not a very wise mind. It was no easy task 
 to twist a metal thread across the rocky, uneven face 
 of the Andes ; indeed, it may be called an unpre- 
 cedented feat of mountain engineering. 
 
 It is not our purpose, however, in this paper to 
 discuss the merits or utility of the Oroya railway. 
 Suffice it to remark that the contract price of the single 
 line was about ^5,000,000, and its length being 136 
 miles gives .36,800 as the rate per mile, a sum con- 
 siderably higher than was expended on many of the 
 
SILVER MINES CERRO DE PASCO. 221 
 
 most paying- of English railways, which are generally 
 made with two lines of rails. The line goes from 
 Lima to Oroya, which terminus is at present a mere 
 village of Indian huts. Looking at the stupendous 
 works, one cannot help wishing that the days of magic 
 could return, and some fairy transport a flourishing 
 town about the size of London, or even Lima, to this 
 site. The best prospects for the undertaking lie in 
 its use as a means of transport for the silver ores of 
 Cerro de Pasco and other mines along its course. But 
 between Oroya and Cerro de Pasco a great district 
 of rough, mountainous country intervenes, and many 
 miles of railway have yet to be completed before the 
 whistle of the locomotive can be heard at that 
 place. Then an adit must be driven, and the mines 
 will require to be well drained before their undoubted 
 riches can be made available. Thus much work 
 remains to be done before the great scheme can be- 
 come an accomplished fact. In the meantime, it is 
 to be hoped this railroad across the Andes may at 
 least serve some local purposes. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE SALTPETRE DEPOSITS OF PERU. 
 
 Saltpetre The Seaboard Pampa de Tamarugal Currents of 
 air Algarova Trees Former Forests Caliche Process 
 of Reduction Nitrate Results of Boiling by Steam-power 
 Cost of Working Transport The Railway A New 
 Process Extent of the Nitrate Fields Description of the 
 Nitrate Country Origin of the Deposits. 
 
 THE country wherein lies the industry the author 
 proposes to describe in this paper is situated on the 
 West Coast of South America, and belongs to that part 
 known as the Costa Seca or Dry Coast, being the slip 
 of land comprised between the 4th and 4Oth degrees S. 
 latitude, and which, measured from the River Tumbez, 
 the southern boundary of the republic of Ecuador, 
 to Valdivia in Chile, embraces, within a length of over 
 2400 miles, the entire seaboard of Peru, Bolivia, and 
 part of Chile. Over this considerable extent of sea 
 coast no rain falls to modify the parched appearance 
 of the soil, and no humidity is obtained from the 
 heavens beyond that acquired from the condensation 
 of the fogs which envelop the coast during the winter 
 
WANT OF WATER. 223 
 
 months. With the rare exception of a shower of rain 
 occurring once or twice in the year, the cultivator is 
 dependent upon the scanty supply of water afforded 
 by the rivers which derive their origin from the rains 
 and snows which fall but moderately on the western 
 slopes of the lofty Cordilleras. Thus the coast can be 
 briefly described as consisting of a succession of valleys 
 of great fertility, separated by arid wastes of high 
 ground of immense extent. 
 
 The section with which we are at present dealing 
 lies at the southern extremity of Peru, and though 
 saltpetre exists in small quantities in Bolivia, up to now 
 it has only been worked in the former country, in the 
 province of Tarapaca, perhaps more familiarly known 
 as the district lying inland of the ports of Patillos, 
 Iquique, Mexillones, and Pisagua. The coast be- 
 tween these ports presents seawards a precipitous 
 front, with its cliffs rising to a height of from one 
 thousand to three thousand feet from the water. 
 These cliffs have but little slope ; therefore, all road 
 approaches are traced in a diagonal direction upon 
 their face, or ascended by a series of reversing in- 
 clined planes, of exceeding steepness, perilous to the 
 mules performing the transport service. 
 
 From the summit of the coast-cliffs the land rises 
 with nearly an uniform ascent, and the construction of 
 the Iquique and La Noria Railway, after deducting for 
 the deviations of the latter, shows that the surface has 
 a general inclination of 50' until it reaches an elevated 
 
224 CLOUDS OF DUST. 
 
 plateau known by the name of Pampa de Tamarugal. 
 This pampa, or extensive plain, is situated at an eleva- 
 tion of 3440 feet on its western side, and extending 
 southwards and northwards, measures about three hun- 
 dred miles in length and from thirty to sixty miles in 
 breadth. The surface is perfectly smooth, and appears 
 level to the eye, but in reality it rises slightly in an 
 easterly direction towards the Cordillera. Its surface 
 is covered in some places by a cap of alluvial soil, but 
 more generally consists of a finely granulated sand, 
 which is raised by the slightest breath, and by a heavy 
 wind is carried over the plains in broad thick clouds 
 which obscure the horizon and blind the traveller 
 with dust. On still days curious conical-shaped clouds, 
 resembling water-spouts, may be seen rising up in all 
 parts of the plain, produced no doubt by the rotary 
 motion which must occur at the meeting of two oppos- 
 ing currents of air. Then a tremulous motion is 
 observed when the eye scans the horizon, and this is 
 caused by the ascent and descent at one and the same 
 time of layers of air at different temperatures the cool 
 coming down, the warm going up. At different points 
 the horizon is broken by patches of trees ; these trees 
 are algarovas, and, as mentioned in a previous chap- 
 ter, their wood is hard and brown, not unlike English 
 oak. They seldom grow in this locality to any con- 
 siderable height. The deposits of roots belonging to 
 this tree, to be found nearly all over the pampa, indi- 
 cate the existence in former days of an immense forest, 
 
CALICHE. 225 
 
 and the traditions of the place explain that formerly 
 wood was the only fuel used in the reduction of the 
 saltpetre and other minerals in which the province 
 abounds. The algarova requires but little moisture, 
 and subsists on the humidity which it absorbs through 
 its leaves from the atmosphere. 
 
 The mineral containing saltpetre is called caliche. 
 Caliche generally lies at depths of from one to ten 
 yards below the surface, and sometimes resembles in 
 appearance loaf sugar, and at other times rock-sulphur; 
 and again it appears white, crossed with bluish veins. 
 Its gravity varies from that of common salt to sandstone 
 (2*41 average), according to the amount and nature 
 of earthy matters it may be allied with. The nitrate 
 portion dissolves freely in boiling water, leaving behind 
 as a residuum the earthy substances. The custom is 
 to boil it at a temperature of from 220 to 240 degrees 
 Fahrenheit. This valuable mineral is found beneath 
 a covering of calcareous earth, generally assuming 
 the appearance of half- formed sandstone, when it is 
 serviceable for building purposes. A shaft, or hole, 
 sufficiently wide to permit of the passage of a man, is 
 sunk through this cap as far as the under side of the 
 caliche, at which point the underlying earth is dug out 
 in a circle for several feet. The chamber thus formed 
 is charged with gunpowder (manufactured in the dis- 
 trict), and on being fired the result is to disengage 
 and throw up to the surface the subterranean caliche, 
 which is picked out by hand and stacked up in heaps 
 
 Q 
 
226 TREATMENT OF THE CALICHE. 
 
 at some convenient point, whence it is conveyed in 
 carts, capable of holding about a couple of tons, to 
 the oficina, or manufactory. Considerable skill is re- 
 quired in selecting the points at which to begin mining 
 operations, and it frequently occurs that large sums 
 of money are paid for lands which on being worked 
 prove to be worthless, either on account of the scarcity 
 of the caliche, its bad quality, or its great depth 
 beneath the surface. These losses are sustained on 
 account of the difficulty sometimes experienced of 
 obtaining labour or tools in a country so inhospit- 
 able in its resources, and possessing no real indige- 
 nous population. 
 
 At the manufactory the caliche is broken up, 
 either by hand labour or by steam crushers, into 
 cubes capable of passing through a ring of an inch 
 and a half diameter, for which purpose Blake's patent 
 crusher, manufactured by Messrs. Marsden, of Leeds, 
 has of late years been used in several manufactories 
 with marked success. 
 
 In the old method of extracting the nitrate from 
 the caliche, the broken caliche is shovelled into the 
 boiling pan, which is placed over a fire. After from 
 six to eight hours' boiling in a liquid composed of 
 fresh water and the liquid remainder of a former boil 
 called agua vieja, or "old water" the nitrate of 
 the caliche is dissolved and forms part of the solution, 
 which, by means of a ladle, is transferred to a pan, 
 where it deposits its nitrate. In this process the 
 
THE- CACHUCHA. 227 
 
 caliche is boiled at a low temperature, and the salt 
 is supposed to remain in the refuse. Great waste 
 attends the operation of dissolving at a low tempera- 
 ture, which cannot well be avoided by using the direct 
 fire employed at the Pamelas, and it is estimated 
 that in some cases some thirty per cent, of nitrate is 
 thrown away with the refuse, or, as it is called there, 
 ripia. The water is lifted up from wells in buckets 
 attached to ropes working round a drum, which is 
 placed on a vertical shaft and made to revolve by a 
 mule drawing round its circumference. Thus no 
 steam-power is employed in this process. The in- 
 creasing demand for nitrate caused the introduction of 
 improved plant for its elaboration, and now all the 
 important manufactories are worked by steam-power. 
 
 The improved form of cachucha, or boiling-tank, 
 is either opened or closed, and the heating agency 
 is steam, introduced at the bottom of the tank by 
 means of a steam-coil. The coil is usually placed 
 beneath a perforated false bottom, thereby allowing 
 the heated vapour to circulate through the caliche 
 lying immediately above. Sometimes an additional 
 coil is run directly through the caliche. 
 
 Great diversity of opinion exists among saltpetre 
 manufacturers upon the most economical form of 
 cachucha. Some advocate the closed cachucha, which 
 in every respect may be compared to a steam chest, 
 becatlse they maintain that, the steam being enclosed, 
 there is no waste of heat, and consequently an 
 
228 BOILING THE CALICHE. 
 
 economy is effected in coal. Their opponents assert 
 that the steam in the cachucha condenses, and 
 thereby weakens the solution, and that it prevents a 
 most important operation the stirring-up of the 
 matter during the boiling. On the other hand, the 
 open cachucha allows the steam which has passed 
 through the caliche, and done its duty, to escape into 
 the air, and enables the attendants, during the entire 
 boiling, to constantly turn over the caliche, thereby 
 enabling the heat to penetrate into every crevice of 
 the mass. The result is to extract more nitrate from 
 the caliche, and less is thrown away in the ripia ; 
 hence, by this latter system, an economy is effected 
 in caliche, which more than balances the extra con- 
 sumption of fuel. 
 
 In the closed cachucha the caliche is first placed in 
 boxes made of perforated iron plating, which are 
 mounted on wheels and pushed along a tramway 
 into the cachucha. To overcome the difficulty of 
 stirring up the mass, boxes have been made of a 
 circular shape, and capable of revolving on their 
 standards when locked to an axle worked by a wheel 
 on the outside. This plan however proved a failure, 
 on account of the accumulation of insoluble matter at 
 the bottom of the cachucha, which completely wedged 
 in the boxes, and the attempt to give the latter a 
 rotary motion could only have been done at the risk 
 of breaking the couplings and damaging the boxes 
 themselves. It is thought that this plan might be 
 
EGG-SHAPED CACHUCHAS. 229 
 
 carried out by making the plant stronger, and by 
 allowing adequate space for the insoluble matter which 
 escapes from the boxes ; but that would be objec- 
 tionable, on account of the large steam space it would 
 afford in the cachucha, and the consequent impoverish- 
 ment of the solution through the condensation of the 
 steam. 
 
 There are other forms, known as egg-shaped 
 cachuchas y owing to their similarity in form to an 
 egg placed on its smaller end. These offer great 
 facilities in the operation of charging and discharging 
 the material. The caliche is conducted over a road 
 to their upper part, and shot down. After being 
 boiled, the solution is tapped and the refuse allowed 
 to fall into trucks placed beneath, which convey it 
 to the spoil bank. The chief disadvantage of these 
 cachuchas consists in the necessity of having at com- 
 mand considerable height for the approach-road, and 
 consequently they are chiefly used at those places 
 where an adjoining hill affords that height, the 
 manufactory being built at its base. Where no hill 
 is available, the trucks may be raised on an inclined 
 plane. 
 
 Chemists interested in the trade have of late been 
 engaged in searching for a method of extracting 
 iodine from caliche, but as the operation is known 
 but to a few, and where known kept a dead secret, 
 the author does not propose to touch further upon 
 this subject. 
 
230 THE BOLIVIANS. 
 
 The labour required for the different operations 
 attendant on the production of nitrate is chiefly sup- 
 plied by Bolivians. Great numbers of these people, 
 as we have already seen, annually cross the Cordilleras, 
 taking with them their wives and children, and then 
 offer themselves for hire at the saltpetre establish- 
 ments. They earn from one to two dollars per day, 
 and perform their work well ; and they are much 
 esteemed by the manufacturer for their docile dispo- 
 sition and readiness to obey orders. Their migratory 
 habits never allow them to remain long in one locality ; 
 they remain perhaps six or twelve months, then leave 
 in a tribe, to go to some adjacent establishment. 
 Chinese coolies are employed at some places, but 
 the feebleness and lack of physique of those who 
 have hitherto visited the district rendered them in- 
 capable of performing the hard work of mining and 
 the rough duties attendant upon this manufacture. 
 
 Mechanics, bricklayers, carpenters, and skilled 
 artisans of any description command high wages in 
 this district ; and the manufacturers can well afford to 
 pay them highly, as they calculate upon at least fifty per 
 cent of the wages returning to their pockets, by sale 
 of provisions and commodities of every description, 
 of which they are sole purveyors (the truck system). 
 
 Below is a copy of the balance-sheet of the work- 
 ing of an oficina, which may be taken as showing a 
 fair average of the profits made in prosperous times 
 by careful management : 
 
COST OF PRODUCTION. 
 
 231 
 
 March, 1873. 
 DISBURSEMENTS. 
 
 Elaboration... 
 
 Coal, 2300 quintals, at 1*5 soles ... 
 
 Mules 
 
 Provisions 
 
 House and office ... 
 Repairs and loss 
 Gross profit 
 
 ENTRIES. 
 
 Sale of 14,000 quintals of nitrate, at no soles 
 
 per quintal 
 Item provisions ... 
 
 Soles. 
 7680 
 
 3450 
 800 
 
 3000 
 
 1200 
 600 
 
 3670 
 
 20,4OO 
 
 15,400 
 5000 
 
 20,400 
 
 In this case the nitrate was delivered at the manu- 
 factory, from whence it had to be conveyed to the 
 port by the purchaser, either by rail or by mules. 
 
 The cost of conveyance by mule service is fixed 
 according to the distance of the manufactory from 
 the port. Thus from La Noria to Iquique the price 
 is from five to six reals (Peruvian) ; from other oficinas 
 half the distance from the port the price is only half 
 that amount. A good mule will carry as much as three 
 quintals, but the usual load is two down to the port, and 
 one and a half up, loaded with coal or provisions. 
 Frequently the mules have to perform the journey 
 there and back, some twenty-eight miles each way, 
 without touching water, owing to the total absence 
 
232 RAILWAYS VERSUS MULES. 
 
 of that element in its natural state. For the use of 
 the inhabitants sea-water is condensed, but when the 
 machines fail and there is a scarcity, the price is too 
 high to give drink to the mules ; two cents per gallon 
 is the price paid at Iquique for condensed water, and 
 sometimes as much as four is paid. 
 
 The construction of the Iquique and La Nona 
 Railway did much to take the transport service away 
 from the mules, but it did not entirely succeed in doing 
 so, owing to its inadequacy to convey the enormous 
 quantity of saltpetre daily brought down. The line 
 starts in a northerly direction from the port, making 
 towards the coast-cliffs, which it reaches at a distance 
 of three miles and at an elevation of some three 
 hundred feet. From that point it reverses its direction 
 to the north, and creeps up the hillside on an incline 
 of three per cent, until it attains the summit of the 
 coast-cliffs at the station called Molle, which is situated 
 at an elevation of 1630 feet above the sea, and at a 
 distance of ten miles from Iquique. 
 
 From thence it follows a generally direct course 
 on to La Noria, winding itself round hillsides in curves 
 of from three hundred to five hundred feet radius, 
 sometimes raising itself high above the surrounding 
 country, where the latter dips and assumes the shape 
 of a bowl, over the extreme edge of which the railway 
 must necessarily pass. At other times the line pene- 
 trates by deep cuttings through irregular porphyritic 
 rocks, clearly indicating the volcanic agency that must 
 
LA NORIA RAILWAY. 233 
 
 have occurred to have caused their displacement, until 
 it reaches the district known as La Noria. Through- 
 out, the railway is of the 4 ft. 8J in. gauge. Where 
 there were cuttings near, their debris supplied the 
 fillings, and at other places trenches were dug at each 
 side of the line. The chief want experienced was soft 
 earth or sand to pack in the permanent way. This 
 was very scarce, owing to the hard nature of the 
 surface of the ground. 
 
 Though it is not proposed to give here a detailed 
 description of the railway, the points bearing on the 
 transport of saltpetre are set down as follows. 
 
 The grades between Iquique and La Noria vary 
 from three to five per cent, and the up trains generally 
 consist of the following loads : 
 
 Eng. tons. 
 
 One Fairlie locomotive in running order ... 54 
 
 Four American double bogie cars loaded, say 24 
 
 tons each ... ... ... ... 96 
 
 One tank holding approximately 2000 gallons of 
 
 water and its car, say ... ... ... 22 
 
 One employees car ... ... ... 12 
 
 Total ... ... 184 
 
 The inequality of the traffic, the up traffic not 
 amounting to a third of the down, necessitates the 
 hauling up of empty cars. Thus trains of from eight 
 to ten empties are despatched. 
 
 On the downward journey, as many as twenty 
 cars loaded with saltpetre have been lowered by 
 
234 COST OF CONVEYANCE. 
 
 these engines, but as the risk attendant upon the train 
 breaking away is so considerable, the number has 
 been reduced to fifteen or twelve, representing a total 
 of some 340 tons. Each car is loaded up to 264 
 quintals, or nearly twelve English tons, and the bags 
 are laid at each end, immediately over the bogie 
 frames, leaving the middle part of the car empty. 
 The price charged by the late company was one and 
 a half cents per quintal per mile, being the price 
 allowed in the concession from the government ; thus, 
 taking the distance of the manufactory from the port, at 
 about thirty-three miles, the cost of conveyance would 
 be five Peruvian reals (equivalent to ten Spanish) per 
 quintal. 
 
 From an extract taken from Consul Hutchinson's 
 report on this trade, published in the Foreign Office 
 Blue Book of Consular Reports for 1873, we learn 
 that in eleven months of the year 1872 the total 
 export of nitrate from Iquique was 3,983,798 quintals, 
 or 362,163 per month. Since then it has no doubt 
 increased, but we will take only that amount which 
 would correspond to over 12,000 quintals conveyed 
 daily to the port. For 12,000 quintals some forty- 
 five cars would be required. Supposing the railway 
 worked for a monopoly of both the up traffic (coal 
 and provisions) and the down traffic, it could only 
 approach such a monopoly with the following train 
 service : 
 
SALTPETRE EXPORTED. 235 
 
 Locomotives 
 running 
 per day. Cars. 
 
 3 trains of provision and fuel cars, 4 cars loaded 
 
 and one empty ... ... ... ... 15 
 
 4 trains of 8 empty cars each ... ... 3 2 
 
 2 trains of water tanks to supply the above, 8 tanks 
 
 each. 
 
 9 Cars ... ... 47 
 
 Water tanks ... ... 16 
 
 This is only taking the up traffic to be one-fourth 
 of the down ; most probably it would reach as much 
 as one- third if not more. Were the railway to secure 
 a monopoly, then a greater number of trains would 
 be required. It is said that the late company never 
 possessed sufficient rolling-stock to attempt anything 
 of this kind, and, in addition, they had to contend 
 with the water question, which, in the author's opinion, 
 would, were it to remain as at present, entirely pre- 
 vent their securing a monopoly of the traffic. For 
 working the first section to Molle, the water is obtained 
 from sea-water cleansed at Iquique, and for working 
 the remainder of the line it is brought in tanks from 
 a well in the interior to Molle, at an enormous cost. 
 
 To show the large traffic returns which this im- 
 portant railway might, under certain conditions, earn, 
 it is only necessary to refer to the amount of saltpetre 
 shipped from the port of Iquique in 1872, which 
 approached four million quintals. The entries, as- 
 suming a monopoly, would then be : 
 
236 CONVEYANCE THEREOF. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 4,000,000 quintals, at 5 reals, taken to 
 
 port ... ... ... ... 2,000,000 
 
 Up traffic, consisting of coal, corn, hay, 
 provisions, and material of all descrip- 
 tions, say one-third of above, 1,333,333 
 at 5 reals ... ... ... 666,666 
 
 Total of entries ... 2,666,666 
 
 Or equivalent to a sum of over ^533,333 pounds 
 sterling, gross receipts. 
 
 There were in 1874 some three thousand to four 
 thousand mules competing with the railway. 
 
 This line, as well as that from Pisagua to Sal de 
 Obispo, was constructed by a private firm of Peru- 
 vians, Messrs. Montero Brothers, who are the owners 
 of the property and by whom it was originally 
 w r orked. 
 
 Whilst dealing with the conveyance of saltpetre 
 to the port, an unsuccessful endeavour, which occa- 
 sioned much discussion at the time, made by a com- 
 pany to convey down the nitrate in a liquid state 
 through iron piping, should also be mentioned. The 
 company which entertained this project was called 
 " La Compania Salitrera Barrenechea," since, it is 
 understood, put into liquidation. The objects of the 
 promoters were, firstly, to avoid as much as possible 
 the use of steam in the reduction of the mineral 
 and thereby secure an economy in coal ; secondly, 
 to save the freight of conveyance by rail or mule 
 to port. The first was sought by dissolving the 
 
UNSUCCESSFUL METHODS. 237 
 
 caliche in vertical pans by passing cold water through 
 it a process resembling filtration. The solution 
 drawn from the bottom of the pan was pumped up 
 to high ground (for the mines lay in a hollow), 
 whence it ran down by gravitation through piping 
 to the works at the port. At the latter place the 
 solution was boiled in large circular pans, heated 
 by a fire placed so as to spread over the entire bottom 
 of the pan. The result of the first experiment may 
 be easily anticipated. The solution, impregnated 
 with the salts it held in suspension, soon began to 
 precipitate them, and a thick cake of nitrate and salt 
 shortly collected at the bottom of the boilers, which 
 were in consequence burnt, and rendered useless. 
 Notwithstanding the wrong principles upon which 
 the plant was designed, which the directors recog- 
 nized, and which could have been remedied by an 
 additional expenditure, the company apparently took 
 no steps to modify these evils, and the real cause of 
 their suspending their operations at last was, it is 
 understood, the fear they entertained regarding the 
 quality of their lands. With caliche containing a 
 large percentage of common salt no profit is to be 
 made by working it either with this or another 
 system, though, it must be understood, the writer 
 does not give any opinion upon the nature of the 
 mines in question. 
 
 As regards the extent of land supposed to contain 
 saltpetre, no formal measurement or survey has been 
 
238 EXTENSIVE DEPOSITS. 
 
 made, for frequently land is supposed to contain 
 nitrate, but, on being opened, proves to be barren 
 of that mineral. 
 
 The lands round about La Noria were those first 
 worked, and there remains very little " virgin land " 
 left in that quarter. There are large spaces, how- 
 ever, left untouched on the Pampa de Tamarugal, and 
 nitrate is supposed to exist all along the southern 
 border of the pampa, between the points known 
 as Pozo de Almonte ' and Sal de Obispo, which 
 have been referred to before. 
 
 Numerous deposits are reported to exist in the 
 south, where some oficinas have been opened and a 
 railway made to them from the port of Patillos ; but for 
 the reasons before stated, namely, for the want of a 
 geological survey, it would be impossible to give any 
 definite opinion as to the area of land containing 
 saltpetre or its quality. On the other hand, large 
 portions of land in the south are said to contain no- 
 thing but beds of common salt. 
 
 The author observes that Mr. Markham says, in 
 his "Travels in Peru and India:" "It is calculated 
 that the nitrate grounds in this district (Tarapaca) cover 
 fifty square leagues, and allowing one hundred pounds 
 weight of nitrate for each square yard, this will give 
 sixty-three million tons, which at the present rate of 
 consumption will last 1393 years." He cannot agree 
 with Mr. Markham that the deposits cover so large 
 an area as four hundred and fifty square miles, but the 
 
NITRATE DEPOSITS IN THE SOUTH. 239 
 
 space covered might amount to one hundred, though 
 that can only be a supposition, and no opinion can be 
 formed in reference to the quality of the nitrate. The 
 estimate of one quintal to the square yard is too low 
 in his opinion. On making an analysis of two speci- 
 mens of caliche, they were found to contain the 
 following substances : 
 
 IST SPECIMEN (WHITE). 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Nitrate of soda ... ... ... ... 48 
 
 Common salt ... ... ... ... 40 
 
 Insoluble matters ... ... ... ... 12 
 
 100 
 
 2ND SPECIMEN (YELLOW). 
 
 Nitrate of soda ... ... ... ... 55 
 
 Salt ... ... ... ... ... 35 
 
 Insoluble matters (containing sulphur) ... ... 10 
 
 100 
 
 The mineral is found in layers of from a few inches 
 to three yards in thickness, and it is thought that 
 three quintals per yard of surface is a fair average for 
 land containing nitrate in sufficient quantities to repay 
 its working. Provided these lands in the south prove 
 to be good, we may in that case assume a total area of 
 one hundred square miles ; but otherwise, excluding 
 these, it would not be safe to count upon more than 
 one-third of that area. One hundred square miles at 
 three quintals per square yard would give 42,240,000 
 tons, which at a consumption of three million quintals 
 
240 PHYSICAL FORMATION. 
 
 per annum would last over three centuries. All these 
 grounds were originally claimed under the mining 
 laws of the country by private individuals, but have 
 been subsequently purchased by the Peruvian govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The writer will now describe the physical features 
 of the country, upon which are based his suppositions 
 as to the origin of these deposits. Ascending from 
 the sea-board, the cuttings in the railway bring to view 
 rocks of porphyritic formation. Granite is seen in 
 a state of decomposition, crossed with veins of quartz, 
 and in other places are beds of coal and sandstone. 
 At the summit the railway cuts through a bed of 
 white limestone, resembling marble as to the polish 
 it will take, and for which rock it has been mistaken 
 by many. To this coast range succeeds the vast 
 plain of Tamarugal, with its alluvial coating, which 
 extends some thirty miles to the foot of the second 
 range of mountains, chiefly composed of sandstone, 
 and among which extinct volcanoes have been recog- 
 nized. Another level plain intervenes between these 
 latter and the range of mountains known as the Cor- 
 dillera proper, among which is situated the famous 
 volcano Isluga. 
 
 Returning to the Pampa of Tamarugal, a group of 
 hills, ranging from two hundred to five hundred feet 
 above its level, borders its western extremity. On 
 the slope of these hills lie the deposits of saltpetre, 
 and in no case has that mineral been found on the 
 
LAND-SPRINGS. 241 
 
 pampa itself. On its eastern side stands the second 
 range of mountains already mentioned. These moun- 
 tains are pierced at frequent intervals by deep ravines, 
 at the bottom of which small streams find their bed, 
 but the uniform layers of boulders packed up on each 
 side of the ravines leads the imagination to picture 
 the large rivers, which at one time, no doubt, travelled 
 down these channels on their way to water the wooded 
 plains of the pampa. In the journey already de- 
 scribed it will be remembered that upon entering the 
 ravine of Tarapaca, two leagues of ground covered with 
 boulders had to be traversed, and a deep gully could 
 still be traced in the neighbourhood, which points out 
 the course taken by a pre-historic river. 
 
 By one of those revolutions in Nature, the occur- 
 rences of which are proved by the researches of the 
 geologist, the rains ceased to fall with their accustomed 
 abundance, and have left, where formerly were forests 
 and grassy plains, nothing but an immense arid desert. 
 But though the rains are now insufficient to form 
 themselves into rivers, they fall with regularity on 
 the slopes of the distant Cordillera, and, being ab- 
 sorbed by the earth, they percolate through porous 
 strata, to empty themselves into the natural reservoir 
 beneath the surface of the pampa. Thus water 
 may be seen jetting out in springs at the foot of the 
 eastern range of mountains, where it is obtained 
 in large quantities by the natives, by driving tunnels 
 into the yellow sandstone which forms the foundation 
 
 R 
 
242 HOT AND COLD SPRINGS. 
 
 of the slope. The crust at this point is chiefly sand 
 and a limestone having a very washed appearance, 
 from which water is also obtained ; but it does not 
 repay the working, as it is soon dried out. 
 
 At Pica, as we have noticed, there are two basins 
 supplied with water in this manner, the one placed 
 some fifteen feet above the other. The top one 
 receives from its tunnel supplies of cold water, whilst 
 the bottom receives warm water (ninety degrees Fahr.). 
 At a point a quarter of a mile up the hill, and at an 
 elevation of about one hundred feet, another basin 
 receives warm water ; thus the anomaly is presented 
 of a cold stream running between two hot streams. 
 
 Following the section of the pampa westwards for 
 about ten miles, water is found beneath the surface at 
 a depth of three yards. In this latitude that novel 
 kind of cultivation already described is practised, the 
 capillary attraction which some plants possess to an 
 inordinate degree being utilized by making them suck 
 up the water through several feet of earth. Alfafa, 
 vegetables, and different cereals thrive well in these 
 pits, and the cultivation proved so successful that the 
 government, who in that country must have a finger 
 in every pie, established an agency to collect rents 
 and to plant a farm on their own account, with the 
 object of supplying the soldiery with vegetables. 
 
 Resuming a westerly course at the termination of 
 another eight miles, water is found at a lower 
 depth, namely, at about six or eight yards below the 
 
SUBTERRANEAN RESERVOIR. 243 
 
 surface. It is still sweet to the taste. Another eight 
 miles in the same direction and the western hills are 
 arrived at, where the water is reached only at depths 
 of from forty to one hundred yards, and with only a 
 few notable exceptions, so strongly impregnated with 
 saliferous matter that it is unfit for the use of animals. 
 Thus the pampa may be compared to a cup, slightly 
 tilted up at one end and filled with a fluid, the surface 
 of which is depressed from the natural level by the 
 weight of a covering whose depth increases in propor- 
 tion to its distance from its raised end. This subter^ 
 ranean reservoir is supplied directly from the rainy 
 district, and as a proof of the free connection which 
 exists between itself and its sources, it is only neces- 
 sary to refer to the fact of the simultaneous rising of 
 the water in the wells almost immediately after the 
 commencement of the rainy season. 
 
 Now, taking into consideration the facts above 
 enumerated, the position of the deposits beneath the 
 surface of a " lee-shore," the proximity of numerous 
 volcanoes probably uniting with their lava large 
 quantities of salts, sodas, sulphurs, and other sub- 
 stances, and lastly, the direct communication main- 
 tained by the rivers between the volcanoes and the 
 nitrate grounds, would it not be reasonable to suppose 
 that these deposits derive their origin from volcanic 
 discharge ? Is it not probable that the lava discharged 
 during eruptions, falling into the ravines, was snatched 
 up by the rivers in the latter, and whilst its heavier 
 
244 WINTER FOGS. 
 
 particles were deposited in the neighbourhood, the 
 lighter, consisting of the salts, might have been con- 
 veyed across the desert and thrown upon the opposing 
 shore, which thus, on the withdrawing. of the waters in 
 the dry season, became coated with the deposits ? 
 
 With the arrival of the fogs in winter, this 
 coating of soda would experience rapid liquefaction 
 through the condensation of the fogs, and the product 
 would be absorbed by the porous soil of the formation. 
 
 Apparently no suitable place offered itself for the 
 accumulation of the deposits on the eastern side of 
 the pampa, where they would have been rapidly dis- 
 solved and washed off by the rains, and, indeed, where 
 the hardness of the formation would not have per- 
 mitted of their percolation. 
 
 Bolleart, in his " Antiquities of Peru," etc., whilst 
 opposing Darwin's opinion, that the pampa was for- 
 merly an inland sea and obtained its salt thereby, 
 says, " As to iodic salts, we need not look for them to 
 the sea, as iodine and bromine exist in the minerals 
 of the regions ; " and in another part he hints at the 
 probability of their being derived from volcanic 
 sources. 
 
 If Darwin was right, would not the greater part of 
 the pampa be covered with salt on the evaporation of 
 the sea- water ? But it is not so, as no beds of salt on 
 the pampa have been discovered after boring for a 
 considerable depth. It lies only on the slopes of the 
 western shore. 
 
THE GULF STREAM AGAIN. 245 
 
 The heavy fogs of which mention has been made 
 appear between the months of March and October, 
 and on condensing leave a thin coating of chloride of 
 sodium on projecting rocks and stones, or on any 
 impediment which seems to arrest their course. 
 
 To bring back to memory the origin of these sea 
 fogs, it may be useful to quote what Captain Maury 
 says about those of Newfoundland, in his " Physical 
 Geology of the Sea," article 166: "The fogs of New- 
 foundland, which so much endanger navigation in the 
 spring and summer, doubtless owe their existence to 
 the presence in that cold sea of immense volumes 
 of warm water, brought by the Gulf Stream." The 
 distinguished Peruvian scientist, Senor Raimondi, in 
 his "Apuntes sobre la Provincia litoral de Loreto," 
 says at p. 7 : " The immense extent of sand stretching 
 along the coast of Peru, in some places from fifteen 
 to twenty leagues in breadth, has likewise to do with 
 the absence of rain, because, being a good conductor 
 of caloric, the sand, acted upon by the sun, evapo- 
 rates a current of warm air, which prevents the 
 watery vapours already spoken of from being con- 
 densed. In winter time, the atmosphere being of 
 course colder, and the sand being a better conductor 
 of heat than the water of the sea, becomes colder 
 than the latter, so that its low temperature causes 
 the condensation from which we have the fogs so 
 general in winter-time on the coast of Peru." 
 
 It appears to the writer that, in addition to this last 
 
246 VOLCANIC AGENCY. 
 
 reason given by Senor Raimondi, the fogs are caused 
 just in the same manner as those off Newfoundland, 
 with the difference that, in lieu of warm water pouring 
 itself upon cold, the cold water of Humboldt's current, 
 coming from the south polar regions, mingles with 
 the comparatively warm waters of the Pacific coast, 
 thus producing the same effect. These fogs appear 
 at night-time, when frequently the thermometer de- 
 scends below freezing point, to rise again at ten a.m. 
 to sixty degrees Fahr., and at noon to eighty degrees 
 Fahr. in the shade. 
 
 To strengthen the supposition of these deposits 
 having been created through volcanic agency, Hum- 
 boldt may be again quoted ; at p. 397 in vol. iii. of 
 his " Travels in South America," he says : " The enor- 
 mous masses of muriate of soda recently thrown up 
 by Vesuvius ; the small veins of that salt which I have 
 often seen traverse the most recently ejected lavas, 
 and of which the origin (by sublimation) appears 
 similar to that of ologist-iron deposited in the same 
 vents ; the layers of gem salt and saliferous clay of the 
 trachyte soil of the plains of Peru, and around the 
 volcanoes of the Andes of Quito, are well worthy 
 the attention of geologists who would discuss the 
 origin of formations." 
 
 It must be mentioned that the grounds are nearly 
 everywhere covered with flat pieces of clinkstone or 
 phonolite, varying in size from a few inches to a square 
 foot. A strong opinion is entertained by the natives 
 
CLINKSTONE, 247 
 
 that^ these blocks of stone are aerolites. As they 
 belong to the trachytic family, it is reasonable to sup- 
 pose that they have been washed down from the vol- 
 canic mountains, and to account for their being found 
 on the top of hills of moderate height, an upheaval 
 might have occurred subsequently to their being 
 deposited. 
 
 If we admit Humboldt's view as regards the some- 
 time disposal of materials discharged from volcanoes, 
 the origin of the saltpetre deposits will have been 
 almost proved to demonstration, for the volcanoes 
 would supply the materials, and these would be con- 
 veyed by the hydraulic agency which it has been 
 attempted to describe, to the site they now occupy, 
 where, after being dissolved by the fogs naturally 
 converted into liquid and absorbed by the earth, in 
 union with nitrogen derived from the atmosphere, 
 they would be dug out as nitrate of soda, for the use 
 and to promote the prosperity of man. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Dangerous Coasts The Balsas Humboldt's Current The 
 Littoral Tame Scenery Types of Nationality Misman- 
 agement of Loans Characteristics of the Peruvians 
 Indians on the Coast Degraded Races Resemblances of 
 Races The Lost Ten Tribes Indians of the Sierra 
 Coca-chewing Various Races Character of the Peruvians 
 Literature of Peru Poets of Peru Peruvian Poetry 
 Traces of African Blood Mixed, very Mixed Races Pride 
 of Caste The Zambo-Pariahs Native Intelligence 
 Missionary Work Beauty of the Chacra Produce grown 
 in the Chacras Vegetables of Peru Fruits of Peru 
 Riches of Peru Mines, Ancient and Modern Anti- 
 quarian Researches Hidden Treasures Death of Ata- 
 hualpa Conclusion. 
 
 IN taking leave of Peru, perhaps some remarks may 
 be made on the formation of the land, and also as 
 to the great ocean whose waters bathe its shores. 
 The dangers of navigating along Peruvian shores are 
 but too well known, for unhappily this coast has 
 been the scene of numerous shipwrecks. 
 
 The Cordillera, or western chain of mountains, in- 
 tersecting Peru from S.S.W. to N.N.E., and running 
 
THE CORDILLERA. 249 
 
 parallel with the Andes, has a precipitous slope, ter- 
 minating sometimes on the sea-coast, sometimes as 
 far as one hundred and fifty miles inland. At Lima, 
 a toe or offshoot of the great mountain is washed by 
 the waters of the Pacific; at Concepcion in Chili, the 
 foot-line recedes to its extreme distance from the sea. 
 The intervening space forms the littoral of Peru and 
 Chili. In the south of Peru the two mountain chains 
 stand at a wider distance from each other, and the 
 Cordillera, which at that point is considerably lower 
 than the Andes, throws out many spurs, which often 
 extend as far as the sea, and form short promontories. 
 
 In northern and central Peru, where the ranges draw 
 nearer together, and where the Cordillera is higher 
 than the Andes, the littoral is in consequence broader 
 and the slope seawards at a more gentle inclination, 
 leaving a wide belt of shallow water along the coast. 
 Thus the depth of water along shore is much less 
 north of the seventeenth degree south latitude than 
 it is south of that line, and the navigation along that 
 part is performed at a distance of about three miles 
 from the shore. The so-called " anchorage ground " 
 for steamers at the ports of San Jose, Eten, Salaverry, 
 and other places, is from one to two miles off shore. 
 
 In the south, where the cliffs end more abruptly, 
 there are some good and fairly safe harbours. Those 
 of Callao, Arica, and Iquique, are naturally formed 
 bays, all of which afford a tolerably secure refuge 
 for ships. On the other hand, in the open road- 
 
250 HUMBOLDTS CURRENT. 
 
 steads to the north, the surf is generally heavy, and 
 the embarkation of passengers and goods is only 
 safely performed by means of balsas, or huge rafts. 
 
 These balsas are formed by lashing together a 
 number of trunks of the cabbage or cork tree, and 
 stretching a piece of tarpaulin or matting over them. 
 Frequently, at the smaller ports, the round rough logs 
 have no covering of any kind. This primitive craft 
 is propelled by means of a large mainsail, and often 
 considerable skill is shown by the sailors who steer 
 the vessel across the high foaming breakers. 
 
 To assist the explanation of certain phenomena, it 
 should be noted that the prevailing current, sometimes 
 known as the "Humboldt," and so-called after the great 
 naturalist who studied its influence on the climate of 
 the country, runs parallel with the coast from south to 
 north. The prevalent wind, which increases in force 
 towards the afternoon, blows also from the south or 
 south-west. The difficulties of navigation on this coast 
 are greatly increased by the dense fogs which appear 
 regularly between the months of March and October 
 along the whole of the Peruvian coast. These fogs 
 are said to arise much in the same way as those 
 which occur off the Newfoundland coast ; that is to 
 say, they result from the commingling of waters 
 different in temperature. Instead, however, of warm 
 water pouring itself into cold, as when the Gulf Stream 
 mingles with the cold water of the North Atlantic, 
 here the cold water of " Humboldt's current," flowing 
 
A RAINLESS DISTRICT. 251 
 
 from the south polar regions, mixes with the warm 
 water of the Pacific and causes condensation, which 
 produces fogs. 
 
 The higher temperature of the Pacific is easily 
 accounted for by the degrees of latitude, and by the 
 immense expanse of sand in Peru, which must 
 absorb the heat of the sun, and warm both sea and 
 atmosphere. The absence of rain, which never falls 
 on the western slope of the Cordillera, may perhaps 
 also be partly due to these long sandy stretches. 
 Sand being a good conductor of heat causes a current 
 of warm air to rise from its surface when heated by 
 the sun, which prevents the condensation of vapour. 
 
 The littoral thus described is the most thickly 
 populated and the best known portion of Peruvian ter- 
 ritory. As has been related, the greater portion of it is 
 divided into a succession of valleys by intervening 
 spaces of elevated ground. The remaining part, not 
 counting the Pampa de Tamarugal in the south, 
 consists of the "Altos," or mountainous slopes of 
 the Cordilleras and Andes. 
 
 In addition, there is an immense stretch of country 
 between the Andes and the Brazilian frontier, which 
 is bordered on the north side by the tributaries of 
 the Amazon. But as this country is little known, 
 and is supposed to be peopled by mere savage Indians, 
 its possession hitherto has been of little advantage 
 to Peru. The district is however worth exploring, 
 as it is reported to be thickly covered with forests 
 
252 TAME SCENERY. 
 
 containing trees and plants of the most valuable 
 description. 
 
 To give the reader a general impression of the 
 " Altos " of Peru, it is perhaps unnecessary to relate 
 a number of distinct journeys ; in fact, one journey 
 through this region very closely resembles another. 
 
 In many ways the scenery of the Peruvian Cor- 
 dillera is decidedly disappointing, especially to any 
 one who (like the writer) has had the opportunity of 
 seeing the majestic beauties of the Caucasian Moun- 
 tains, or who has travelled through Switzerland. 
 
 The heights of the Cordillera are always approached 
 through a narrow valley, whose steep precipitous sides 
 generally shut out the view of whatever picturesque 
 pdaks or cones may be beyond. The view is re- 
 stricted to the opposite side of the valley. Neither 
 does the Peruvian Cordillera contain any remarkable 
 peaks, the view from which is likely to repay the 
 climber for his trouble. The outlook from the summit 
 of the several " passes " which the writer has crossed 
 would be described by the Alpine Club as "tame." 
 The summits are smooth and rounded, something 
 like a beehive in shape. There are no high peaks 
 rising above the low hills in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 Some reference to the character of the Peruvians 
 may not be out of place in this concluding chapter. 
 In describing national character, the mistake to be 
 feared is that very common one of taking a single 
 individual, or a limited number of individuals, as the 
 
VARIOUS TYPES. 253 
 
 representative type of the whole nation. Like the 
 well-known traveller in Alsace, who being one day 
 afflicted with a drunken landlord and his red-haired 
 wife, wrote in his diary, " All Alsatian landlords 
 drunkards ; all the women red-haired." As an illustra- 
 tion of this, it is said that many people on the Con- 
 tinent take the portrait of " John Bull," which Pimch 
 has reproduced for so many years, as a faithful repre- 
 sentation of the modern Britisher. It would, perhaps, 
 be difficult to name the particular class of Englishmen, 
 among the many classes composing the population, 
 who would adopt the heavy and somewhat stupid- 
 looking person dressed in hunting costume as the 
 type of their order. If we are to believe Mr. Max 
 O'Rell, there is also a tendency abroad to take the 
 bourgeois as the type of the modern English gentle- 
 man. 
 
 So in delineating the Peruvian character, it is 
 obviously incorrect to take one class of individuals, 
 probably the best known, as typical of the inhabitants 
 of Peru. The writer has often regretted to hear 
 epithets expressing the utmost disdain and contempt 
 applied to the whole Peruvian race, in consequence of 
 losses sustained in Peruvian loans, by persons who 
 certainly should have been better informed. 
 
 Let us briefly consider the injustice of these re- 
 marks. The proceeds of loans raised under the Presi- 
 dency of the late Colonel Balta were admittedly mis- 
 applied and wasted in making railroads which under 
 
254 PERUVIAN LOANS WASTED. 
 
 no circumstances could pay even the cost of working, 
 instead of being laid out as they should have been 
 in productive works such as irrigation, which would 
 have considerably added to the prosperity of the 
 country. Persuaded by advice which was not entirely 
 disinterested, a serious error of judgment was made 
 by Colonel Balta, who in the end paid with his life 
 for his want of judgment and knowledge, for he was 
 assassinated during a revolution caused by the 
 anarchy into which his mismanagement of affairs had 
 thrown the capital, but not the country. It is quite 
 consistent with the facts to say that none of the 
 Peruvians, except the paid official classes and the 
 richer merchants, knew anything, or had a voice in 
 the raising of these loans in Europe, or in direct- 
 ing the manner in which the money was spent in 
 Peru. 
 
 In a country like this one, where there are few 
 railways and telegraphs, news travels slowly, and 
 besides, under the traditional habits of its inhabitants, 
 engendered by centuries of submission to Spanish 
 authorities, the interests of the Peruvian are provincial 
 and he rarely interferes in politics. It must be borne 
 in mind that it is not very long since a viceroy of 
 Spain ruled supreme at Lima. The effect which 
 privation and hardship continued for generations had 
 upon native character is not yet entirely worn off. 
 
 In describing therefore the character of the Peru- 
 vians, it must be distinctly understood that the writer 
 

 MIXED RACES. 255 
 
 does not take any individual, be he politician, mer- 
 chant, or even agriculturist, as his type, but that he 
 simply recounts in a general sense his opinion of the 
 race and of their natural characteristics, as they came 
 under his observation during a two years' residence in 
 the country. 
 
 As to the race, subdivision is necessary, the 
 population of the coast naturally differing in charac- 
 ter and appearance from the inhabitants of the High- 
 lands. The climate is different also, but that is 
 not sufficient to account for the widely varying 
 characteristics ; the fact is, the races have different 
 blood in their veins. On the coast, the population 
 consists of three distinct types : the whites, chiefly of 
 Spanish extraction ; the blacks, from Ethiopia ; and 
 the native Indian. These by their intermarriages 
 have produced numerous and varied mixed races. 
 
 The Indian of the coast is in better circumstances 
 than his brother who inhabits the interior, and has 
 become more affiliated to the character and disposi- 
 tion of the Creole. In the Sierra, the Indian is cha- 
 racterized by reserve, obstinacy, and suspicion ; he is 
 little inclined to give information, and is entirely 
 bereft of any public spirit. 
 
 The hand of the conqueror, which fell so heavily 
 on the ancient monuments, proved no lighter when 
 framing rules for the government of the half-conquered 
 races ; and as is often said, the subject races are 
 what the dominant ones make them centuries of 
 
256 NATIVE INDIANS. 
 
 oppression and injustice have produced their natural 
 result in these vices. 
 
 Accustomed to be robbed systematically and 
 treated as beasts of burden by the commissioners or 
 emissaries of the viceroy at Lima, the poor Indian 
 of the Sierra soon sinks to the level of a slave, and 
 finds that the only means of retaining in his pos- 
 session anything of value is to observe absolute 
 secrecy regarding its existence. In appearance, the 
 Indian is short of stature ; the chest broad and deep ; 
 the limbs round and strong ; the features, as has 
 been remarked, closely resembling those of the Inca 
 race preserved on the clay pots. In the writer's 
 opinion, their character indicates a Tartar origin ; but 
 this is a moot point among antiquarians and historians. 
 Some of the theories broached on the subject are 
 worthy of mention. The great army of Roman 
 Catholic priests, and many who follow them, reject 
 the notion of any Adam and Eve being created except 
 those mentioned in Holy Writ; ethnologists, from their 
 study of the human race, are of a different opinion. 
 Those who hold that the eastern and western hemi- 
 spheres were peopled by the same races, are of 
 opinion that the two continents were at one time 
 joined, Behring's Straits being the most probable 
 point of junction. On the authority of Captain 
 Behring we are told that he saw the straits at one 
 time frozen over, forming a safe bridge for the 
 passage of human beings. 
 
HEBREW ORIGIN OF PERUVIANS. 257 
 
 Assuming that this physical connection was a fact, 
 it is endeavoured to prove that Chinese Tartary was 
 the birthplace of the first emigrants to America. In 
 support of this theory, a number of remarkable facts 
 are brought forward, such as the calendars in Mexico 
 and Chinese Tartary being the same, the two lan- 
 guages having many words with identical terminations ; 
 the numerous names of Hebrew origin, such as Jonas, 
 David, Samson, Solomon, being heard among the 
 Calchaquies in the provinces of Tucuman, Chaco, etc. 
 Noticeable in this connection are the terminations 
 of the names of magnates in both countries, which 
 invariably end with the reverential participle " Trin." 
 
 Captain Behring also stated that he met a Jesuit 
 priest who informed him that he knew an Indian 
 woman belonging to the Arona nation, whom he had 
 baptized in Canada, and who, in answer to his inquiry 
 as to how she came there, assured him that she had 
 come overland as a slave. 
 
 The peopling of Assyria and Media, eventually 
 spreading to Russia and Chinese Tartary, is said by 
 the same chroniclers to be due to Teglatfalasar and 
 his son Salmanasar, kings of Assyria, who carried away 
 captive numbers of the tribes of Gilead, Reuben, Gad, 
 Zabulon, and Naphtali, as also of the other five tribes 
 composing the Israelitish nation. This latter is the 
 final link in the chain of evidence which connects the 
 modern Peruvian with the lost tribes of Israel. 
 
 Be his origin what it may, there is little to find 
 
 S 
 
258 LOVE OF HOME. 
 
 fault with in the life led by the Serrano. Provided that 
 the cultivation of the small plot of arable land usually 
 to be found reclaimable in the quevradas, or mountain 
 valleys, produces sufficient to maintain himself and 
 family, he is content, especially if he can supplement it 
 by keeping a small flock of llamas. As a rule he is 
 sober and industrious, and his ambition is limited to the 
 being allowed to be happy in his own way, and live as 
 he likes, without being impoverished by the exactions 
 of the authorities, often onerous and difficult to satisfy. 
 
 Like most mountaineers, he is fond of his home and 
 imbued with a reverence for the traditions of his race, 
 and he prefers to live quietly where his ancestors 
 lived before him rather than to court wealth in the 
 more prosperous towns and coast settlements, where he 
 would be despised by his fellow-townsmen, the white 
 men. " Liberty and thistles " is his motto, and as 
 thistles go, his share is a succulent species. 
 
 If the Indians of the Sierra may be accused of 
 any kind of hurtful self-indulgence, it must be that of 
 chewing coca leaves. The coca tree (Erythroxylon 
 coca) is a low shrub with bright green leaves and 
 white blossoms, which blossoms are succeeded by 
 small scarlet berries. The Indians masticate this coca. 
 Each individual carries a small leathern pouch called 
 the huallqui, or the chuspa, and a small flask gourd 
 called ishcupuru. The flask contains a supply of 
 coca leaves, and the gourd is filled with pulverized 
 unslaked lime. Usually four times, but never less 
 
COCA-CHEWING. 259 
 
 than three times a day does the Indian stop his work 
 for the purpose of chewing this coca. The operation 
 (which is termed chucchar, or acullicar) is thus per- 
 formed. Some of the coca leaves, the stalk having 
 been carefully removed, are chewed till they form a 
 small ball, or, as it is called, an acullico. A thin strip 
 of damp wood is then thrust into the lime gourd ; when 
 drawn out with some portion of lime adhering, it is 
 thrust again and again into the ball of coca leaves 
 which still remains in the mouth, until the lime is 
 sufficiently mixed with it to give a proper relish. 
 The abundant flow of saliva thus generated is partly 
 expectorated and partly swallowed. When the ball 
 ceases to emit juice it is thrown away, and a new one 
 made by the mastication of a fresh mouthful of coca 
 leaves. The application of the unslaked lime requires 
 some precaution, for should it come into direct con- 
 tact with the lips or gums, it would cause a very 
 painful burning. 
 
 The effect of coca is similar to that of narcotics 
 administered in small doses, and it is a well-known 
 fact that Indians who regularly masticate it require 
 but little food, and nevertheless can go through 
 excessive labour with apparent ease. The incredible 
 fatigue endured by the Peruvian infantry on very 
 spare diet, but with the regular use of coca, the 
 laborious toil of the Indian miner under similar 
 circumstances throughout a long series of years, 
 certainly afford sufficient ground for attributing to 
 
26o FOOD FOR THE GODS. 
 
 these coca leaves the quality, not only of a temporary 
 stimulant, but also of a strong nutritive principle. 
 
 It is interesting to note that at a recent meeting of 
 the Royal Botanic Society in Regent's Park, Professor 
 Bentley mentioned a note made by the secretary as to 
 the fruiting of the coca plant in one of the society's 
 greenhouses, for the first time in this country. He 
 mentioned that the generic name of Theobroma was 
 given to this plant by Linnaeus, and signified " food for 
 the gods." Speaking of the consumption of coca, he 
 said the amount imported in 1820 was only one hun- 
 dred and twenty-five thousand pounds, in 1866 it had 
 reached four million pounds, in 1873 eight million, and 
 at the present time probably the consumption is not 
 less than twelve million pounds per annum. 
 
 To return to the population on the coast. The 
 middle class is composed of the melange, more or less 
 white-complexioned, which results from the crossing 
 of the indigenous with the pure Spanish and African 
 races. Notwithstanding that Peru is the most re- 
 publican of all the South American States, in certain 
 respects its aristocracy is composed of the more or 
 less direct descendants of the Spanish colonists, and 
 of the richer classes of Creoles. 
 
 Speaking generally, the Peruvian is more gay 
 than serious in disposition, more talkative than pro- 
 found in conversation, not the least addicted to 
 criticising, or joking, or parrying words with his 
 neighbour. He is fond of the society of the fair sex, 
 
CHARACTER OF THE PERUVIAN. 261 
 
 addicted to games and other amusing pursuits rather 
 than to applying his energies to any serious work. 
 Thus he is often unjustly accused of being an indo- 
 lent farceur. But is not the extent of a man's in- 
 dustry too often measured by the pressure of the 
 necessities which compel him to work ? In Peru, 
 the actual necessaries of life are easily obtained, and 
 there is absolutely no comparison to be drawn between 
 the difficulties of earning a living there, and those 
 which are known, alas, to so many in the over-popu- 
 lated countries of Europe. 
 
 Fairly to estimate the character of the Peruvian, 
 if we enter on the one side his lack of seriousness and 
 his indolence, we must on the other hand give him 
 credit for a good-natured disposition and a kind 
 heart. He generally makes an affectionate husband, 
 and is devotedly attached to his children. His good 
 nature and willingness to oblige even perfect strangers 
 is remarkable, and by these qualities the writer 
 benefited largely during his travels through all parts 
 of the country. Of the courage and bravery of the 
 race there can be no question. The long and san- 
 guinary war in which they engaged, in order to throw 
 off the hated Spanish yoke ; the very acts of personal 
 bravery so often performed in the troubled times of 
 revolution, which, alas, occur so frequently ; and the 
 recent four years' war with Chili, in which an old 
 rivalry between kindred races revived ancient blood 
 feuds, and caused one of the most remorseless and 
 
262 PERUVIAN LITERATURE. 
 
 blood-thirsty conflicts known in history ; these place 
 beyond a doubt the natural bravery of the race. 
 
 It is generally stated that none of the South 
 American peoples have a literature of their own ; 
 that tied to Spain during nearly three centuries of 
 subjection, by habits, identity of language and beliefs, 
 there are no distinct features in the compositions of 
 the native poets in any of the freed colonies. With 
 respect to Peru, it is urged that the poems, romances, 
 and dramas of Peruvian authors are the exact reflex 
 of that class of inspiration which is wont to animate 
 the Castilian mind. There is much truth in these 
 remarks. The early poets and writers, among whom 
 are reckoned Peralta, Valdez, Cabiedes, Olavidey, Lar- 
 riva, all natives of Lima, are stamped in a less brilliant 
 degree with the poetic sentiment and inspiration of the 
 land which produced Lope de Vega and Quevedo. 
 
 The civil wars which, after the emancipation, fol- 
 lowed each other in rapid succession until 1845, were 
 the real obstacles to the progress of literature. But 
 a new literary era for the country began with the 
 publication of the works of Felipe Pardoy Aliaga 
 who is the pride of American literature, and was the 
 cause of many youths applying themselves to the 
 study of les belles lettres. Since the days of Felipe 
 Pardo, Peru can boast of a fair list of poets. 
 
 The names of Manuel Castillo, Arnaldo Marquez, 
 Adolfo Garcia, Carlos Augusto Salaverry, Manuel A. 
 Segura, are the most distinguished. Salaverry, the 
 
CARLOS SALAVERRY. 263 
 
 dramatic poet, is one of the most popular among his 
 countrymen. Born in 1831, Carlos Salaverry evinced 
 considerable poetic talent even at an early age. It 
 is related that, at the age of fifteen, when he held 
 the rank of cadet in the army, he employed the 
 greater part of his leisure in translating into his own 
 language the works of Shakspeare, Byron, Dante, and 
 Tasso, and in making comments on the " Lusiad." 
 Arturo, a drama belonging to the classic and romantic 
 school, was one of his earliest productions, and was 
 acted at the theatre of Lima, where it was much 
 applauded by the audience. Abel el Pescador followed 
 Artiiro. The argument of this play is based upon 
 an ancient tradition of the Incas, and the story 
 abounds with interesting episodes of that time, as 
 likewise Atahualpa, in which the author endeavoured 
 to reproduce the most striking scenes of the con- 
 quest. Besides his more serious productions, he wrote 
 numerous sonnets, such as the " Kiss in the Glass," of 
 which the concluding stanza will give some idea 
 of the natural beauty of his versification. 
 
 " Mi corazon es tu espejo, 
 Y si lo rompe tu amor 
 Cadra fibra de dolor 
 Tendra entero tu reflejo." 
 
 Which may be freely translated thus 
 
 " Mine heart is thy mirror rare, 
 Which, if thy love does break, 
 Each pang of grief and care 
 The reflection of thyself will take." 
 
264 MIXED RACES. 
 
 The muse of Adolfo Garcia produced many poems 
 which, both as regards language and ideas, must place 
 him in the first rank of Peruvian bards. His poem 
 on " Christopher Columbus," and more especially that 
 on " Bolivar," in which he lauds the great South 
 American liberator in heroic strains, and records his 
 exploits among the majestic scenery of the Cordilleras, 
 is well worth perusal by lovers of Peruvian literature. 
 
 As is well known, African blood is widely diffused 
 among the races of the Peruvian littoral, notwith- 
 standing that the negro is so despised by the descen- 
 dants of the old colonists, who have more or less 
 preserved the whiteness of their complexion ; one can 
 often find traces of the " tar-brush " among the " best " 
 families of the land. The crisp, curly hair, large 
 expressive black eye, full, not to say thick, lips, are 
 some of these evidences which tend to beauty rather 
 than the reverse, as the discolouration of the finger- 
 nails, etc., tends the other way. 
 
 The proper designation of the children resulting 
 from the intermarriage of negroes with Creoles and 
 others of mixed blood, or with the indigenous popu- 
 lation, gives rise to many mistakes, and, as may be 
 expected, occasions much gossip among the relatives 
 of bride and bridegroom. It is said that to "get a 
 rise out of " a white man in these regions, it is only 
 necessary to mix a glass of port wine with another 
 of water, then a glass of the mixture with another of 
 water, till the process being five times repeated, the 
 
SHADES OF COLOUR. 
 
 265 
 
 glass appears to hold water alone. The application of 
 this to his own descent is too much for his equanimity. 
 The subjoined list of permutations may not be 
 without interest to the ethnologist. 
 
 Father. 
 
 Mother. 
 
 Children. 
 
 White 
 
 + Negro = 
 
 Mulatto. 
 
 White 
 
 + Indian = 
 
 Mestizo. 
 
 White 
 
 + Mulatto 
 
 jCuarteron. 
 \Quadroon. 
 
 White 
 
 + Mestiza = 
 
 Creole (only to be dis- 
 
 
 
 tinguished from a white 
 
 
 
 by a pale brownish com- 
 
 
 
 plexion). 
 
 White 
 
 + China 
 
 Chino-blanco. 
 
 White 
 
 + Quadroon = 
 
 Quintero. 
 
 White 
 
 + Quintera = 
 
 White. 
 
 Indian 
 
 + Negro = 
 
 Chino. 
 
 Indian 
 
 + Mulatto 
 
 Chino-oscuro. 
 
 Indian 
 
 -1- Mestiza 
 
 Mestizo-claro (frequently 
 
 
 
 beautiful). 
 
 Indian 
 
 + China 
 
 Chino-cholo. 
 
 Indian 
 
 + Zamba 
 
 Zambo-claro. 
 
 Indian 
 
 + China-cholo = 
 
 Indian (with rather short 
 
 
 
 frizzy hair). 
 
 
 {Cuarterona \ 
 
 
 Indian 
 
 or 
 
 Mestizo (rather brown). 
 
 
 Quintera J 
 
 
 Negro 
 
 + Mulatta = 
 
 Zambo-negro. 
 
 Negro 
 
 + Mestiza = 
 
 Mulatto-oscuro. 
 
 Negro 
 
 + China = 
 
 Zambo-chino. 
 
 Negro 
 
 + Zamba = 
 
 Zambo-negro. 
 
 
 iCuarterona } 
 
 
 Negro 
 
 or L 
 
 Mulatto (rather dark). 
 
 
 Quintera i 
 
 
 Mulatto 
 
 + Zamba = 
 
 Zambo (miserable race). 
 
 Mulatto 
 
 + Mestiza = 
 
 Chino (complexion rather 
 
 Mulatto + China 
 
 clear). 
 
 Chino (rather dark). 
 
266 CASTE PREJUDICES, 
 
 This list does not include all the half-castes, 
 which, as will be observed, may be multiplied by 
 crossing and recrossing to an extent that would 
 baffle description. As it is, few persons can dis- 
 tinguish other than the most marked types of half- 
 castes in the above list. The colour of the skin is 
 sometimes quite at variance with the characteristic 
 features of the race. The best criterion is the hair, 
 far less deceptive than the complexion. 
 
 Despite its republican institution, there prevails 
 throughout Peru a strong pride of caste, which shows 
 itself at every opportunity. In quarrels, for example, 
 the fairer antagonist always taunts the darker one 
 about descent. The Indian looks with abhorrence on 
 the negro, the latter returns the compliment, and so 
 on among all the half-castes and mixed races who 
 differ in shades of colour. The taunts are only less 
 bitter as the shades approach each other. 
 
 Zambos are the really troublesome members of 
 this strangely mixed population. In them the 
 hereditary vices of each race seem to have attained 
 their utmost degree of development. Their colour is 
 black, sometimes tinged with olive brown ; their 
 figures are athletic and powerfully built, the nose less 
 flat than the negro's, but the very prominent lips 
 denote the extreme sensuality of their nature. They 
 commit the most hideous crimes with the utmost 
 indifference, and their lawless propensities are con- 
 tinually bringing them into collision with the con- 
 
THE BLACK RACE. 267 
 
 stituted authorities. The outlaws, who in troublous 
 times disturb the peace of the haciendados in the 
 large sugar estates of the north, by making a raid on 
 their horses or by robbing travellers in the open 
 country, are chiefly recruited from this class. 
 
 The conduct of the negroes and half-castes in Peru, 
 who are mainly descendants of slaves originally brought 
 from Africa, must be interesting to watch by those 
 who hope for the amelioration of the black race. It 
 is notorious that most of the oldest observers of the 
 negro totally disbelieve in the possibility of his pass- 
 ing a certain stage in the path of Christian civilization. 
 At the present moment, when the English Govern- 
 ment is asked to follow the example of the United 
 States, and recognize the flag of the society which the 
 King of the Belgians has formed on the Upper Congo, 
 with the object of" assisting towards the civilization of 
 Central Africa," it is curious to note the opinion of an 
 old English resident on the West Coast of Africa. 
 Writing from Punta de Lenho, in a letter to the Pall 
 Mall Gazette of March 25, 1884, Mr. G. C. Phillips 
 begs to remind his readers " that while the coast line 
 is perfectly open, the natives are altogether uncivilized." 
 " Take the three places," he continues, " Goboon under 
 the French rule, Loanda under the Portuguese, and 
 Banana under the natives, places perfectly ' free ' to 
 the influences of civilization, and you will find that 
 the mere planting of ' stations ' has not the slightest 
 effect upon the native character. If any imparter of 
 
268 THEIR CAPABILITIES. 
 
 civilization desires scope for his labours, he can go to 
 either of these places ; he will find an ample field 
 for exertion. Why should he expect that ' stations ' 
 in the interior will be more effective than on the 
 coast ? " 
 
 This, if not an exaggerated picture, is not en- 
 couraging to the great numbers who have in a most 
 praiseworthy manner assisted the work of African 
 missionaries, under the belief that the negro possesses, 
 equally with the white man, a mind which for its ex- 
 pansion only needs to hear His words and gospel, and 
 to have a good example set him. Perhaps if there 
 were also taken into account the centuries of bar- 
 barism through which the race has struggled, we 
 should better realize the fact that many years and 
 much patience must needs be spent on them before 
 they can be " educated up to " the pitch of civilization 
 which surrounds us from our cradles, and insensibly 
 becomes part of our very being. 
 
 It has been the author's object in these pages to 
 set before his readers as exact a description as words 
 will convey of what he saw in Peru with his own eyes, 
 to draw, so to speak, verbal pictures of its valleys, 
 deserts, and mountains, and of the interesting races 
 composing its population. He was himself strongly 
 impressed with the beauty and novelty of nearly 
 everything he encountered in his wanderings. If any 
 interest attend the tale of his wanderings, it must be 
 due to the marvellous forms and peculiar character- 
 
BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY. 269 
 
 istics of nature and humanity in this corner of our busy 
 world, rather than to his own power of description. 
 
 As to lovely scenes, perhaps few in Peru are more 
 to be admired than a native chacra, or farm, at har- 
 vest-time. Who among those who have seen it can 
 forget the rows of thickly leaved orange trees, laden 
 with bright golden fruit, dotted amidst the dark green 
 foliage ; the plots of fresh young lucerne and the 
 larger plantations of sugar-cane, from which a peculiar 
 sighing music proceeds as the long leaves are swayed 
 to and fro in the afternoon breeze ; the sudden screech 
 overhead which denotes the flight of bright-coloured 
 parrots making a raid on the adjoining field of maize, 
 whose golden " cobs " are ripe for plucking ; the 
 sparkling water of the irrigation canals as it trickles 
 on, giving life and nourishment to all this beautiful 
 vegetation ; the brown hairless faces of the cholos, 
 dressed in white, bending over their separate tasks, 
 or grouped together at their afternoon meal in the 
 shade of a clump of bananas ; the whole scene illumi- 
 nated by the bright Western sun, which warms the 
 atmosphere and one's self? Could the Garden of Eden 
 have been lovelier than this ? 
 
 But the chacra is not only beautiful to view, it is 
 also very productive when skilfully managed ; for 
 skill and a sufficiency of water are the only things 
 needed for success in farming on a rich virgin soil 
 such as this, and in a land where there are no ex- 
 tremes of climatic variation. Besides sugar-cane and 
 
270 EDIBLE ROOTS. 
 
 Indian corn, which are the principal crops, rice is 
 extensively planted in the valleys where water is 
 plentiful. The seeds of the rice grown in Peru are 
 much larger, heavier, and whiter than that brought 
 from India. Native rice is therefore in greater de- 
 mand, and, in consequence, fetches the highest price 
 in the market 
 
 Among the root crops of the chacra figure camotes 
 (Convolvulus batatas), which are sometimes called 
 sweet potatoes. There are two kinds of camotes, the 
 yellow and the violet ; both are much liked for their 
 excellent flavour. The Aracacha (Conium moschatwn} 
 is a very agreeable and nutritious kind of tuberous 
 vegetable, in flavour not unlike celery. It is cooked 
 by being simply boiled in water, or made into a kind 
 of soup. 
 
 The Yucca (Jatropha manihof) is one of the finest 
 vegetables of Peru ; the roots, which are the edible 
 part of the plant, grow from one to two feet long, and 
 are somewhat of a turnip form. They are very agree- 
 able in taste and easy of digestion, and from them 
 sometimes a fine flour is prepared, which is used for 
 making certain kinds of bread and biscuits. 
 
 Among the pulse there are different kinds of peas 
 (garbanzos) on the coast, and beans (frijoles) on the 
 higher grounds. The climate suits all vegetables of 
 the cabbage and salad kinds which are so largely culti- 
 vated in Europe. The tomato (or love apple) and the 
 Aji (Spanish pepper) are some of the edibles which 
 
PERUVIAN BUTTER. 271 
 
 serve for spicery. The olive is cultivated chiefly in 
 the southern provinces, and its fruit approximates in 
 flavour to the Spanish olive. The castor-oil plant 
 (Ricinus communis} grows wild, and, in districts where 
 the ground is marshy, in great profusion. The oil 
 which is pressed out of the seeds is used for lighting 
 purposes, and for greasing the machines employed at 
 the sugar-mill. 
 
 The fruits of Southern Europe thrive luxuriantly 
 in the warm climate of Peru. Lemons, oranges, 
 pomegranates, limes and water-melons, and figs are 
 seen nearly everywhere in great abundance. tu*croit Liblfcr 
 
 Among the tropical fruits ranks first the chirimoya 
 (Anona tripetala), which has already been described. 
 The palta (Persea gatissimd] is a fruit of the pear 
 form, and dark brown or green in colour. The edible 
 substance is soft and green, and is sometimes called 
 "Peruvian butter." It dissolves in the mouth as 
 easily as butter; and when quite ripe is scooped 
 out with a teaspoon, and eaten like cream. Platanos 
 (bananas) thrive well nearly everywhere ; the favourite 
 way to eat them is fried with meat, like broccoli at 
 home. The granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis) is 
 about the size of an apple, but oblong in shape ; the 
 skin is reddish yellow, hard and rather thick. The 
 edible part is grey and gelatinous, and contains a 
 quantity of black seeds, which are embedded in the 
 fruit. The fruit tastes like gooseberry, and is very 
 pleasant and cooling. The granadilla is a climbing 
 
272 FRUITS. 
 
 shrub, and twines itself round the trunks of trees or 
 climbs up the walls of houses. 
 
 The pacay is the fruit of a large-sized tree 
 (Prosopis dulcis), with a rather low and broad top. 
 It consists of a pod from twenty to thirty inches long, 
 enclosing black seeds buried in a white, soft, flaky 
 substance. This coating, which is as white as snow, 
 is the eatable part of the fruit ; its taste is sweet and 
 somewhat insipid. Tunas are fruits of different 
 species of cactus. The husk, which is covered with 
 sharp prickles, is green or yellow, or red in colour, 
 and is easily separated from the pulp, which is of the 
 consistency of cream cheese, with a pleasant sweet taste. 
 
 The guayava (Psidium pomifermri) grows on a 
 low shrub, and the fruit is in form and size like a large 
 orange. The rind is bright yellow, and thin ; the 
 pulp is either white or red, and is full of little egg- 
 shaped granulations. The fruit dissolves in the mouth ; 
 its flavour is somewhat acid when not quite ripe. 
 
 The Pepino (a cucurbitacea) is grown in great abun- 
 dance in the fields. The plant is only about eighteen 
 inches high, and it creeps along the ground. The 
 fruit is from four to five inches long, cylindrical and 
 pointed at both ends, something like a cucumber ; 
 the husk is of a yellowish green colour, with long 
 rose-coloured stripes, and the pulp or edible part is 
 solid, juicy, and well flavoured. 
 
 The Mani, or earth almond (Arachis hypogcza], is 
 grown in the northern provinces. The plant is from 
 
FLOWERS. 273 
 
 eighteen inches to two feet high, and very leafy ; the 
 kernels have a grey, shrivelled husk ; they are white 
 and contain much oil. Often they are eaten with 
 sugar, after being roasted or crushed. 
 
 The capulies (Prunus capuliii) grows in the open 
 fields ; the fruit, which is of a deep yellow colour, 
 and has an acid taste, is a little bigger than a cherry. 
 On account of their very pleasant odour, they are 
 frequently used in making Pucheros de flores (China 
 bowls filled with dried flowers), or with other sweet- 
 smelling flowers are besprinkled with agua rica, and 
 laid in drawers to perfume linen. Peruvian ladies 
 often wear these fruits. 
 
 The Palillos (Campomanesia lineatifolia) grows in 
 trees from twenty to thirty feet in height. The fruit 
 is bright yellow in colour, and about the size of a 
 moderate-sized apple, sweet and pleasant to the taste ; 
 and its scent is delicious. It is used for making per- 
 fumed water. When rubbed between the fingers, the 
 leaves smell like those of myrtle. 
 
 Owing to her great natural resources, Peru has 
 been often and justly described as one of the richest 
 countries of the globe. But the possession of un- 
 limited wealth does not always bring with it pros- 
 perity and power. The position of England as 
 certainly the wealthiest and perhaps the most power- 
 ful nation in the world is not alone due to the immense 
 stores of coal and iron contained in her soil, important 
 as the possession of those minerals has been to her 
 
 T 
 
274 OLD SILVER MINES. 
 
 advancement. Had not Englishmen shown energy 
 in digging out and utilizing these valuable deposits, 
 our coal and iron would probably have become 
 mortgaged, like the guano of Peru, as security for 
 loans of money from some more energetic race than 
 our own. In such a case, the load of debt and obli- 
 gation might have had the usual result of crippling 
 action and preventing progress in whatever direction 
 we might have tried to expand our natural growth. 
 
 The stories of the immense quantities of gold and 
 silver which the Peruvian mines yielded in former 
 days have not, it is thought, been unduly exaggerated. 
 It is generally admitted by mineralogists who have 
 visited the mining districts of the Cerro de Pasco and 
 Huancalvelica and Janja, that the disused workings 
 probably yielded in full the fabulous wealth accredited 
 to them in the old Spanish records. Indeed, at the 
 present time, there are many silver mines worked 
 which repay their cost handsomely to the owners, 
 and fresh veins of silver ore are constantly being 
 discovered. The principal things necessary to success 
 in Peruvian mining are good roads to provide cheap 
 means of transit for the ores, and the provisions and 
 requirements of the miners. It is to be hoped that 
 some of the railways, the construction of which has 
 caused so large an outlay, may contribute largely to 
 the development of the mining industry. 
 
 In addition to minerals and sugar, the long list of 
 miscellaneous exports from Peru testify to the fecun- 
 
ANTIQUITIES. 275 
 
 dity of its soil, which, influenced by varying conditions 
 of climate, is capable of producing nearly all the 
 numerous articles of consumption used by man. The 
 productions of the Sierra are not in importance 
 behind those of the sea-coast. Skins of the llama, 
 alpaca, huanuca, and of the vicuna, bundles of Peruvian 
 bark, packages of feathers of all hues and sizes, coffee, 
 and cocoa, tobacco, the dried flesh of sheep, roe-deer, 
 and oxen, are only a few of the products of the Cordil- 
 lera, to which reference has been made in this volume. 
 
 To the antiquarian Peru is, comparatively speaking, 
 a new field ready to hand for his researches, and it is 
 worthy of Dr. Schliemann's best attention whenever he 
 shall quite have finished exploring the ruins of Tiryns. 
 
 The author must confess that he can gather 
 but little reliable information about the ancient in- 
 habitants of Peru, notwithstanding all the researches 
 that have been made since the Spanish conquest. 
 Clearly this may be attributed to the fact that anti- 
 quarian research undertaken seriously and on a large 
 scale, with a definite object in view, is practically a 
 modern pursuit. 
 
 In Peru, the early explorers and those that followed 
 in their footsteps were content with probing some 
 of the most prominent and easily reached huacas, or 
 burial-mounds, to see if they contained anything 
 worth carrying away. If their first efforts were un- 
 successful, they speedily packed up their tools and 
 sought " fresh fields and pastures new." 
 
276 ATAHUALPAS RANSOM. 
 
 Perhaps there is no field which, apart from its 
 historical interest, offers so great a temptation to the 
 explorer as Peru, Here there is at least the chance of 
 recouping one's self for all the labour and expense by 
 the discovery of treasures which, as all ancient records 
 tend to show, were concealed by the Incas. The 
 tradition of the treasures amassed at Cajamarca for 
 the payment of Atahualpa's ransom to Pizarro, is 
 firmly believed to this day by both Peruvian and 
 Spanish chroniclers. 
 
 The price offered by the king for his liberty was 
 the undertaking to fill the cell in which he was con- 
 fined with gold, up to a certain line on the wall, which 
 Pizarro marked with his sword. The cell measured 
 twenty-two feet by seventeen, and the height to which 
 it was to be filled with gold is stated at about four 
 feet from the ground. 
 
 Atahualpa ordered all the gold available in Caja- 
 marca and its vicinity to be collected ; but when piled 
 up on the floor of the cell, it did not reach above half- 
 way up to the mark. Messengers were dispatched to 
 obtain the gold required for completing the deficiency 
 from the royal treasures at Cuzco, and it is said that 
 eleven thousand llamas, each laden with one hundred 
 pounds weight of gold, were started on the road to 
 Cajamarca. But before the treasure reached its des- 
 tination the unfortunate Atahualpa was hanged by 
 his impatient conqueror, and the news spreading 
 swiftly across the Cordillera, reached the train of 
 
ADIEU. 277 
 
 gold-bearers. The tradition ends by saying that the 
 dismayed Indians concealed all this treasure, and then 
 dispersed. 
 
 In taking leave of his readers, the author would 
 express a hope that the account of his experiences 
 and travels in Peru may prove a slight means of dif- 
 fusing some additional knowledge respecting that in- 
 teresting country and its inhabitants, who, though 
 misguided in some respects, possess many praise- 
 worthy and encouraging qualities. With the spread 
 of education, it is to be hoped that public opinion 
 may become more hopeful, and that the government 
 of the country, like our own, may daily realize more 
 and more the responsibility placed in their hands. If 
 Peru will but be " true to herself" and recognize the 
 great fact that prosperity is largely dependent upon 
 good faith and credit before the eyes of the civilized 
 world, she has yet a future before her, and may fill 
 her natural place, an honourable one among the 
 independent nations of South America. That should 
 be hers if she takes for her motto the safe one put into 
 clear words by one who knew human nature perhaps 
 as thoroughly as any of our great writers, and more 
 than most. 
 
 " This above all, to thine own self be true, 
 And it shall follow as the night the day, 
 Thou canst not then be false to any man." 
 
 SHAKSPEARE. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 LONDON AND BECCLES. 
 
A LIST OF 
 
 KEG AN PAUL, l^RENCH & CO.'S 
 PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 5. 84 
 
I, Paternoster Square, 
 
 London. 
 
 A LIST OF 
 
 KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S 
 PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 GENERAL LITERATURE. . 2 
 PARCHMENT LIBRARY . .19 
 PULPIT COMMENTARY . .21 
 INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC 
 SERIES .... 28 
 
 PAGE 
 
 MILITARY WORKS. . .31 
 
 POETRY . . , . . 32 
 
 WORKS OF FICTION . . 39 
 
 BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG . 40 
 
 GENERAL LITERATURE, 
 
 ADAMSON, H. T. t B.D. The Truth as it is in Jesus. Crown 
 8vo, Ss. 6d. 
 
 The Three Sevens. Crown 8vo, 5.?. 6d. 
 
 The Millennium ; or, The Mystery of God Finished, Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 A. K. H. B. From a Quiet Place. A Volume of Sermons. 
 Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 ALLEN, Rev. R., M.A. Abraham ". his Life, Times, and 
 Travels, 3800 years ago. With Map. Second Edition. 
 Post 8vo, 6s. 
 
 ALLIES, T. W., M.A.^&r Crucem ad Lucem. The Result of a 
 Life. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 25 s. 
 
 A Life's Decision. Crown 8vo, 7-r. 6^. 
 
 AMOS, Professor Sheldon. The History and Principles of the 
 Civil Law of Rome. An aid to, the Study of Scientific and 
 Comparative Jurisprudence. Demy 8vo. i6s. 
 
 ANDERDON, Rev. W. H. Fasti Apostolici ; a Chronology of the 
 Years between the Ascension of our Lord and the Martyrdom 
 of SS. Peter and Paul. Second Edition. Enlarged. Square 
 8vo, 5J. 
 
 Evenings with the Saints. Crown 8vo } 5^. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 3 
 
 ANDERSON, David. "Scenes* in the Commons. Crown 8vo, $j. 
 
 ARMSTRONG, Richard A., B.A. Latter-Day Teachers. Six 
 Lectures. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 AUBERTIN, J. J.K. Flight to Mexico. With Seven full-page 
 Illustrations and a Railway Map of Mexico. Crown 8vo, 'js. 6d. 
 
 BADGER, George Percy, D.C.L.Kn English- Arabic Lexicon. 
 In which the equivalent for English Words and Idiomatic 
 Sentences are rendered into literary and colloquial Arabic. 
 Royal 4to, 8oj. 
 
 BAGEHOT, Walter. The English Constitution. New and 
 Revised Edition. Crown 8vo, Js. 6d. 
 
 Lombard Street. A Description of the Money Market. Eighth 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 Essays on Parliamentary Reform. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 Some Articles on the Depreciation of Silver, arid Topics 
 connected with it. Demy 8vo, $s. 
 
 BAGENAL, Philip H. The American-Irish and their In- 
 fluence on Irish Politics. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 BAGOT, Alan, C.E. Accidents in Mines: their Causes and 
 Prevention. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The Principles of Colliery Ventilation. Second Edition, 
 greatly enlarged. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 BAKER, Sir Sherston, Bart. r W\e Laws relating to Quarantine, 
 Crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 BALDWIN, Capt. J. H. The Large and Small Game of 
 Bengal and the North-Western Provinces of India. 
 
 With 20 Illustrations. New and Cheaper Edition. Small 4to, 
 IOJ. 6d. 
 
 BALLIN, Ada S. and F. L. A Hebrew Grammar. With 
 Exercises selected from the Bible. Crown 8vo, ys. 6d. 
 
 BARCLAY, Edgar. Mountain Life in Algeria. With numerous 
 Illustrations by Photogravure. Crown 4to, i6s. 
 
 BARLOW, James H. The Ultimatum of Pessimism. An 
 Ethical Study. Demy 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BARNES, William. Outlines of Redecraft (Logic), With 
 English Wording. Crown 8vo, 3^. 
 
 BAUR, Ferdinand, Dr. Ph. A. Philological Introduction to 
 Greek and Latin for Students, Translated and adapted 
 from the German, by C. KEGAN PAUL, M.A., and E. D. 
 STONE, M.A. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BELLARS, Rev. W. The Testimony of Conscience to the 
 Truth and Divine Origin of the Christian Revela- 
 tion. Burney Prize Essay. Small crown 8vo, 3,5-. 6d. 
 
A List of 
 
 BELLINGHAM, Henry, M. P. Social Aspects of Catholicism 
 and Protestantism in their Civil Bearing upon 
 
 Nations. Translated and adapted from the French of M. le 
 BARON DE HAULLEVILLE. With a preface by His Eminence 
 CARDINAL MANNING. Second and Cheaper Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 BELLINGHAM, H. Belsches Graham. Ups and Downs of 
 Spanish Travel. Second Edition, Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 BENN, Alfred W.~ The Greek Philosophers. 2 vols. Demy 
 8vo, 2$s. 
 
 BENT, y. Theodore. Genoa : How the Republic Rose and Fell. 
 With 1 8 Illustrations. Demy Svo, iSs. 
 
 BLACKLEY, Rev. W. S. Essays on Pauperism. i6mo. Cloth, 
 is. 6d. ; sewed, Is. 
 
 BLECKLE Y, Henry. Socrates and the Athenians : An 
 Apology. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 BLOOMFIELD, The Lady, Reminiscences of Court and Dip- 
 lomatic Life. With 3 Portraits and 6 Illustrations. Sixth 
 Edition. 2 vols., 8vo, cloth, 28^. 
 
 %* New and Cheaper Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BLUNT, The Ven. Archdeacon. The Divine Patriot, and other 
 Sermons. Preached in Scarborough and in Cannes. New 
 and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 4-y. 6d. 
 
 BLUNT, Wilfred S. The Future of Islam. Crown 8vo, 6*. 
 BOOLE, Mary. Symbolical Methods of Study. Crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 BOUVERIE-PUSEY, S. E. B. Permanence and Evolution. 
 An Inquiry into the Supposed Mutability of Animal Types. 
 Crown 8vo, 5-f. 
 
 BO WEN, H. C., M.A. Studies in English. For the use of Modem 
 Schools. Seventh Thousand. Small crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 English Grammar for Beginners. F'cap. 8vo, is. 
 BRADLEY, F. H. The Principles of Logic. Demy Svo, i6s. 
 
 BRIDGETT, Rev. T. E. History of the Holy Eucharist in 
 Great Britain. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, i8s. 
 
 BRODRICK, the Hon. G. C. Political Studies. Demy Svo, 14*. 
 
 BROOKE, Rev. S. A. Life and Letters of the Late Rev. F. W. 
 Robertson, M.A. Edited by. 
 
 I. Uniform with Robertson's Sermons. 2 vols. With Steel 
 
 Portrait. JS. 6d. 
 
 II. Library Edition. With Portrait. Svo, I2s. 
 III. A Popular Edition. In i vol., Svo, 6s. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications* 5 
 
 BROOKE, Rev. S. A. Continued. 
 
 The Fight of Faith. Sermons preached on various occasions. 
 Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, *js. 6d. 
 
 The Spirit of the Christian Life. New and Cheaper Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 Theology in the English Poets. Cowper, Coleridge, Words- 
 worth, and Burns. Fifth and Cheaper Edition. Post 8vo, $s. 
 
 Christ in Modern Life. Sixteenth and Cheaper Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 5-r, 
 
 Sermons. First Series. Thirteenth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 5J-. 
 
 Sermons. Second Series. Sixth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 BROWN, Rev. J. Baldwin, ^..4. The Higher Life. Its Reality, 
 Experience, and Destiny. Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 Doctrine of Annihilation in the Light of the Gospel of 
 Love. Five Discourses. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 The Christian Policy of Life. A Book for Young Men of 
 Business. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, %s. 6d. 
 
 BROWN, S. Borton, fi.A.The Fire Baptism of all Flesh; 
 
 or, The Coming Spiritual Crisis of the Dispensation. Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BROWN, Horatio F. Life on the Lagoons. With two Illustrations 
 and Map. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 BROWNBILL, John. Principles of English Canon Law. 
 
 Part I. General Introduction. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 BROWNE, W. R. The Inspiration of the New Testament. 
 
 With a Preface by the Rev. J. P. NORRIS, D.D. Fcap. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 BURDETT, Henry C. Hints in Sickness Where to Go and 
 What to Do. Crown 8vo, u. 6d. 
 
 BURTON, Mrs. Richard. The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine, 
 and the Holy Land. Cheaper Edition in one volume. 
 Large post 8vo. *]s. 6d. 
 
 BUSBECQ, Ogier Ghiselin de. His Life and Letters. By CHARLES 
 THORNTON FORSTER, M.A., and F. H. BLACKBURNE DANIELL, 
 M.A. 2 vols. With Frontispieces. Demy 8vo, 24^. 
 
 CARPENTER, W. B., LL.D., M.D., F.R.S., etc. The Principles 
 of Mental Physiology. With their Applications to the 
 Training and Discipline of the Mind, and the Study of its Morbid 
 Conditions. Illustrated. Sixth Edition. 8vo, izs. 
 
 Catholic Dictionary. Containing some account of the Doctrine, 
 Discipline, Rites, Ceremonies, Councils, and Religious Orders of 
 the Catholic Church. By WILLIAM E. ADDIS and THOMAS 
 ARNOLD, M.A. Second Edition, Demy 8vo, 2is. 
 
A List of 
 
 CERVANTES. Journey to Parnassus. Spanish Text, with^Trans- 
 lation into English Tercets, Preface, and Illustrative Notes, by 
 JAMES Y. GIBSON. Crown 8vo, izs. 
 
 CIIEYNE, Rev. T. K. The Prophecies of Isaiah. Translated 
 with Critical Notes and Dissertations. 2 vols. Third Edition. 
 Demy 8vo, 25^. 
 
 CLAIRA UT. Elements of Geometry. Translated by Dr. 
 KAINES. With 145 Figures. Crown 8vo, 4$. 6d. 
 
 CLA YDEN, P. W. England under Lord Beaconsfleld. The 
 
 Political History of the Last Six Years, from the end of 1873 to 
 the beginning of 1880. Second Edition, with Index and con- 
 tinuation to March, 1880. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 Samuel Sharpe. Egyptologist and Translator of the Bible. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 CLIFFORD, Samuel What Think Ye of the Christ ? Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 CLODD, Edward, F.R.A.S.~}\Q Childhood of the World : a 
 
 Simple Account of Man in Early Times. Seventh Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 35. 
 
 A Special Edition for Schools, u. 
 
 The Childhood of Religions. Including a Simple Account of 
 the Birth and Growth of Myths and Legends. Eighth Thousand. 
 Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 A Special Edition for Schools, is. 6d. 
 
 Jesus of Nazareth. With a brief sketch of Jewish History to the 
 Time of His Birth. Small crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 COGHLAN, J. Cole, D.D. The Modern Pharisee and other 
 Sermons. Edited by the Very Rev. H. H. DICKINSON, D.D., 
 Dean of Chapel Royal, Dublin. New and Cheaper Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, Js. 6d. 
 
 COLERIDGE, Sara. Memoir and Letters of Sara Coleridge. 
 
 Edited by her Daughter. With Index. Cheap Edition. With 
 Portrait. 7-y. 6d. 
 
 Collects Exemplified. Being Illustrations from the Old and New 
 Testaments of the Collects for the Sundays after Trinity. By the 
 Author of " A Commentary on the Epistles and Gospels." Edited 
 by the Rev. JOSEPH JACKSON. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 CONNELL, A. A". Discontent and Danger in India. Small 
 
 crown 8vo, ^s. 6d. 
 
 The Economic Revolution of India. Crown 8vo, 4*. 6d. 
 
 CORY, William. K Guide to Modern English History. Part I. 
 MDCCCXV.-MDCCCXXX. Demy 8vo, as. Part II. 
 MDCCCXXX.-MDCCCXXXV., 15 j.. ' 
 
 COTTERILL, H. &. An Introduction to the Study of Poetry. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 7Jr. 6d. ' 
 
Kegan PaiU, Trench & Go's Publications. 7 
 
 CO X, Rev. Sir George W., M.A., Bart. A History of Greece from 
 the Earliest Period to the end of the Persian "War. 
 
 New Edition. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 36^. 
 
 The Mythology of the Aryan Nations. New Edition. 
 Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 Tales of Ancient Greece. New Edition. Small crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 A Manual of Mythology in the form of Question and 
 Answer. New Edition. Fcap. 8vo, $s. 
 
 An Introduction to the Science of Comparative Myth- 
 ology and Folk-Lore. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. JS. 6d. 
 
 COX, Rev. Sir G. W., M.A., Bart., and JONES, Eustace Hinton. 
 Popular Romances of the Middle Ages, Third 
 Edition, in I vol. Crown 8vo, 6s, 
 
 COX, Rev. Samuel, D.D. Salvator Mundi ; or, Is Christ the Saviour 
 of all Men ? Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 The Genesis of Evil, and other Sermons, mainly expository. 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 A Commentary on the Book of Job. With a Translation. 
 Demy 8vo, 15^. 
 
 The Larger Hope. A Sequel to " Salvator Mundi." i6mo, is. 
 CRA YEN, Mrs.K Tear's Meditations. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 CRAWFURD, Oswald. Portugal, Old and New. With Illustra- 
 tions and Maps. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 CROZIER, John Seattle, M.B. The Religion of the Future. 
 Crown 8vo 4 6s. 
 
 DANIELL, Clarmont. The Gold Treasure of India. An Inquiry 
 into its Amount, the Cause of its Accumulation, and the Proper 
 Means of using it as Money. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 Darkness and Dawn ". the Peaceful Birth of a New Age. Small 
 crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 DAVIDSON, Rev. Samuel t D.D., LL.D. Canon of the Bible; 
 
 Its Formation, History, and Fluctuations. Third and Revised 
 Edition. Small crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 The Doctrine of Last Things contained in the New Testa- 
 ment compared with the Notions of the Jews and the Statements 
 of Church Creeds. Small crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 DAVIDSON, Thomas. The Parthenon Frieze, and other Essays. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 DAWSON, Geo., M.A. Prayers, with a Discourse on Prayer. 
 
 Edited by his Wife. First Series. Eighth Edition. Crown 
 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Prayers, with a Discourse on Prayer. Edited by GEORGE 
 ST. CLAIR. Second Series. Crown 8vo, 6f, 
 
A List of 
 
 DAWSON, Geo., M. A. continued. 
 
 Sermons on Disputed Points and Special Occasions. 
 
 Edited by his Wife. Fourth Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 Sermons on Daily Life and Duty. Edited by his Wife. 
 Fourth Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 The Authentic Gospel, and other Sermons. Edited by 
 GEORGE ST. CLAIR. Third Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 Three Books of God : Nature, History, and Scripture. 
 Sermons edited by GEORGE ST. CLAIR. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DE JONCOURT, Madame Marie. Wholesome Cookery. Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, %s. 6d. 
 
 DE LONG, Lieiit. Com. G. W. The Voyage of the Jeannette. 
 
 The Ship and Ice Journals of. Edited by his Wife, EMMA 
 DE LONG. With Portraits, Maps, and many Illustrations on 
 wood and stone. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 36^. 
 
 DESPREZ, Philip S., B.D. Daniel and John ', or, The Apocalypse 
 of the Old and that of the New Testament. Demy Svo, 12*. 
 
 DEVEREUX, W. Cope, R.N., F.R.G.S.T?2i\? Italy, the Riviera, 
 and Monte Carlo. Comprising a Tour through North and 
 South Italy and Sicily, with a short account of Malta. Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DOWDEN, Edward, LL.D.~~ Shakspere : a Critical Study of his 
 Mind and Art. Seventh Edition. Post 8vo, 12s. 
 
 Studies in Literature, 1789-1877. Third Edition. Large 
 post 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DUFFIELD, A. J. Don Quixote : his Critics and Commen- 
 tators. With a brief account of the minor works of MIGUEL DE 
 CERVANTES SAAVEDRA, and a statement of the aim and end of 
 the greatest of them all. A handy book for general readers. 
 Crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 DU MONCEL, Count. The Telephone, the Microphone, and 
 the Phonograph. With 74 Illustrations. Second Edition. 
 Small crown 8vo, $s, 
 
 DURUY, Victor. History of Rome and the Roman People. 
 Edited by Prof. MAHAFFY. With nearly 3000 Illustrations. 4to. 
 Vol. I. in 2 parts, 30J 1 . 
 
 EDGEWORTH, F. Y. Mathematical Psychics. An Essay on 
 the Application of Mathematics to Social Science. Demy Svo, 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 Educational Code of the Prussian Nation, in its Present 
 Form. In accordance with the Decisions of the Common Pro- 
 vincial Law, and with those of Recent Legislation. Crown Svo, 
 2s. 6ct. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications. 9 
 
 Education Library. Edited by PHILIP MAGNUS : 
 
 An Introduction to the History of Educational 
 Theories, By OSCAR BROWNING, M.A. Second Edition. 
 3J. 6<t. 
 
 Old Greek Education. By the Rev. Prof. MAHAFFY, M.A. 
 Second Edition. 3-r. 6d. 
 
 School Management. Including a general view of the work 
 of Education, Organization and Discipline. By JOSEPH LANDON. 
 Third Edition. 6s. 
 
 Eighteenth Century Essays. Selected and Edited by AUSTIN 
 DOBSON. With a Miniature Frontispiece by R. Caldecott. 
 Parchment Library Edition, 6s. ; vellum, JS. 6d. 
 
 ELSDALE, Henry. Studies in Tennyson's Idylls. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 ELYOT, Sir Thomas. The Boke named the Gouernour. Edited 
 from the First Edition of 1531 by HENRY HERBERT STEPHEN 
 CROFT, M.A., Barrister-at-Law. With Portraits of Sir Thomas 
 and Lady Elyot, copied by permission of her Majesty from Hol- 
 bein's Original Drawings at Windsor Castle. 2 vols. Fcap. 4to, 
 5<w- 
 
 Enoch the Prophet. The Book of. Archbishop LAURENCE'S Trans- 
 lation, with an Introduction by the Author of " The Evolution of 
 Christianity." Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 Eranus. A Collection of Exercises in the Alcaic and Sapphic Metres. 
 Edited by F. W. CORNISH, Assistant Master at Eton. Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 
 
 EVANS, Mark.^Q Story of Our Father's Love, told to 
 Children. Sixth and Cheaper Edition. With Four Illustrations. 
 Fcap. 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 A Book of Common Prayer and Worship for House- 
 hold Use, compiled exclusively from the Holy Scriptures. 
 Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo, is. 
 
 The Gospel of Home Life. Crown 8vo, 4^. 6d. 
 
 The King's Story-Book. In Three Parts. Fcap. 8vo, is. 6d. 
 each. 
 
 *a* Parts I. and II, with Eight Illustrations and Two Picture Maps, 
 now ready. 
 
 "Fan Kwae" at Canton before Treaty Days 1825-1844. 
 
 By an old Resident. With Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 FLECKER, Rev. Eliezer. Scripture Onomatology. Being Critical 
 Notes on the Septuagint and other Versions. Second Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 FLOREDICE, W. H.K Month among the Mere Irish. Small 
 crown 8vo, $s. 
 
10 A List of 
 
 FOWLE.Rev. T. W. The Divine Legation of Christ. Crown 
 Svo, 7-r. 
 
 FULLER, Rev. Morris. The Lord's Day ; or, Christian Sunday. 
 
 Its Unity, History, Philosophy, and Perpetual Obligation. 
 Sermons. Demy Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 GARDINER, Samuel R., and J. BASS MULLINGER, M.A, 
 Introduction to the Study of English History, Second 
 Edition. Large crown Svo, gs, 
 
 GARDNER, Dorsey.Qwatre Bras, Ligny, and "Waterloo. A 
 
 Narrative of the Campaign in Belgium, 1815. With Maps and 
 Plans. Demy Svo, 165-. 
 
 -Genesis in Advance of Present Science. A Critical Investigation 
 of Chapters I.-IX. By a Septuagenarian Beneficed Presbyter, 
 Demy Svo. los. 6d. 
 
 GENNA, E. Irresponsible Philanthropists. Being some 
 Chapters on the Employment of Gentlewomen. Small crown 
 Svo, 2$. 6d. 
 
 GEORGE, Henry. Progress and Poverty : An Inquiry into the 
 Causes of Industrial Depressions, and of Increase of Want with 
 Increase of Wealth. The Remedy. Fifth Library Edition. 
 Post Svo, 7-r. 6d. Cabinet Edition. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. Also a 
 Cheap Edition. Limp cloth, is. 6d. Paper covers, is. 
 
 Social Problems. Fourth Thousand. Crown Svo, $s. Cheap 
 Edition. Sewed, is. 
 
 GIBSON, James Y. Journey to Parnassus. Composed by MIGUEL 
 DE CERVANTES SAAVEDRA. Spanish Text, with Translation into 
 English Tercets, Preface, and Illustrative Notes, by. Crown 
 Svo, 12s. 
 
 Glossary of Terms and Phrases. Edited by the Rev. H. PERCH 
 SMITH and others. Medium Svo, 12s. 
 
 GLOVER, P., M.A. Exempla Latina. A First Construing Book, 
 with Short Notes, Lexicon, and an Introduction to the Analysis 
 of Sentences. Second Edition. Fcap. Svo, 2s. 
 
 GOLDSMID, Sir Francis Henry, Barf., Q.C., M.P. Memoir of. 
 With Portrait. Second Edition, Revised. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 GOODENOUGH, Commodore J. . Memoir of, with Extracts from 
 his Letters and Journals. Edited by his Widow. With Steel 
 Engraved Portrait. Third Edition. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 GOSSE, Edmund W. Studies in the Literature of Northern 
 Europe. With a Frontispiece designed and etched by Alma 
 Tadema. New and Cheaper Edition. Large crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 Seventeenth Century Studies. A Contribution to the History 
 of English Poetry. Demy Svo, io.y. 6d. 
 
 GOULD, Rev. S. Baring, M.A. Germany, Present and Past. 
 New and Cheaper Edition. Large crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications. 1 1 
 
 GO WAN, Major Walter E. A. Ivanoff's Russian Grammar. 
 (i6th Edition.) Translated, enlarged, and arranged for use of 
 Students of the Russian Language. Demy 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GOWER, Lord Ronald. My Reminiscences. Second Edition. 
 2 vols. With Frontispieces. Demy 8vo, 30^. 
 
 %* Also a Cheap Edition. With Portraits. Large crown 8vo, js. 6d. 
 
 GRAHAM, William, M.A. The Creed of Science, Religious, Moral, 
 and Social. Second Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 GRIFFITH, Thomas, A.M. The Gospel of the Divine Life : n 
 Study of the Fourth Evangelist. Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 
 GRIMLEY, Rev. H. N., M.A. Tremadoc Sermons, chiefly on 
 the Spiritual Body, the Unseen World, and the 
 Divine Humanity. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 G. S. B.K Study f the Prologue and Epilogue in English 
 Literature from Shakespeare to Dryden. Crown 
 8vo, $s, 
 
 GUSTAFSON, A. The Foundation of Death. Crown 8vo. 
 
 HAECKEL, Prof. JSrnst.The History of Creation. Translation 
 revised by Professor E. RAY LANKESTER, M.A., F.R.S. With 
 Coloured Plates and Genealogical Trees of the various groups 
 of both Plants and Animals. 2 vols. Third Edition. Post 
 8vo, 32,5-. 
 
 The History of the Evolution of Man. With numerous 
 Illustrations. 2 vols. Post 8vo, 32^. 
 
 A Visit to Ceylon. Post 8vo, js. 6et. 
 
 Freedom in Science and Teaching. With a Prefatory Note 
 by T. H. HUXLEY, F.R.S. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 HALF-CROWN SERIES : 
 
 A Lost Love. By ANNA C. OGLE [Ashford Owen]. 
 Sister Dora : a Biography. By MARGARET LONSDALE. 
 
 True Words for Brave Men : a Book for Soldiers and Sailors. 
 By the late CHARLES KINGSLEY. 
 
 Notes of Travel : being Extracts from the Journals of Count VON 
 MOLTKE. 
 
 English Sonnets. Collected and Arranged by J. DENNIS. 
 London Lyrics. By F. LOCKER. 
 
 Home Songs for Quiet Hours. By the Rev. Canon R. H. 
 BAYNES. 
 
 HARROP, Robert. Bolingbroke. A Political Study and Criticism. 
 DemySvo, 14^. 
 
 HART, Rev. J. W. T. The Autobiography of Judas Iscariot. 
 A Character Study. Crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
12 A List of 
 
 HAWEIS, Rev. H. R., M.A. Current Coin. Materialism The 
 Devil Crime Drunkenness Pauperism Emotion Recreation 
 The Sabbath, Fifth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 Arrow's in the Air. Fifth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 Speech in Season. Fifth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 Thoughts for the Times. Thirteenth and Cheaper Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 Unsectarian Family Prayers. New and Cheaper Edition. 
 Fcap. 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 HAWKINS, Edwards Comerford. Spirit and Form. Sermons 
 preached in the Parish Church of Leatherhead. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 HA WTHORNE, Nathaniel 'Works. Complete in Twelve Volumes. 
 Large post 8vo, "js. 6d. each volume. 
 
 VOL. I. TWICE-TOLD TALES. 
 
 II. MOSSES FROM AN OLD MANSE. 
 
 III. THE HOUSE OF THE SEVEN GABLES, AND THE SNOW 
 
 IMAGE. 
 
 IV. THE WONDERBOOK, TANGLEWOOD TALES, AND GRAND- 
 
 FATHER'S CHAIR. 
 
 V. THE SCARLET LETTER, AND THE BLITHEDALE ROMANCE. 
 VI. THE MARBLE FAUN. [Transformation.] 
 
 vTlI I UR LD HoME > AND ENGLISH NOTE-BOOKS. 
 IX. AMERICAN NOTE-BOOKS. 
 X. FRENCH AND ITALIAN NOTE-BOOKS. 
 XI. SEPTIMIUS FELTON, THE DOLLIVER ROMANCE, FANSHAWE, 
 AND, IN AN APPENDIX, THE ANCESTRAL FOOTSTEP. 
 XII. TALES AND ESSAYS, AND OTHER PAPERS, WITH A BIO- 
 GRAPHICAL SKETCH OF HAWTHORNE. 
 
 HA YES, A. A., Junr. New Colorado, and the Santa Fe Trail. 
 With Map and 60 Illustrations. Square 8vo, gs. 
 
 HENNESSY, Sir John Pope. Ralegh in Ireland. With his Letters 
 on Irish Affairs and some Contemporary Documents. Large crown 
 8vo, printed on hand-made paper, parchment, IQJ. 6^. 
 
 HENRY, Philip. Diaries and Letters of. Edited by MATTHEW 
 HENRY LEE, M.A. Large crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 HIDE, Albert. The. Age to Come. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 HIME, Major H. W. Z., R.A. Wagnerism ; A Protest. Crown 
 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 HINTON, J. Life and Letters. Edited by ELLICE HOPKINS, with 
 an Introduction by Sir W. W. GULL, Bart., and Portrait 
 engraved on Steel by C. H. Jeens. Fourth Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 8s. 6d. 
 
 Philosophy and Religion. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 The Law Breaker. Crown 8vo. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 13 
 
 HINTON, J. continued. 
 
 The Mystery of Pain. New Edition. Fcap. 8vo, is. 
 
 Hodson of Hodson's Horse ; or, Twelve Years of a Soldier's Life 
 in India. Being extracts from the Letters of the late Major 
 W. S. R. Hodson. With a Vindication from the Attack of Mr. 
 Bosworth Smith. Edited by his brother, G. H. HODSON, M.A. 
 Fourth Edition. Large crown 8vo, 5-y. 
 
 HOLTHAM, E. G. Eight Years in Japan, 1873-1881. Work, 
 Travel, and Recreation. With three Maps. Large crown 8vo, gs. 
 
 HOOPER, Mary. Little Dinners : How to Serve them with 
 Elegance and Economy. Eighteenth Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Cookery for Invalids, Persons of Delicate Digestion, 
 and Children. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Every-Day Meals. Being Economical and Wholesome Recipes 
 for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Supper. Fifth Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 HOPKINS, Ellue.lAte and Letters of James Hinton, with an 
 Introduction by Sir W. W. GULL, Bart., and Portrait engraved 
 on Steel by C. H. Jeens. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 8s. 6d. 
 
 Work amongst Working Men. Fifth Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 HOSPITALIER, E. The Modern Applications of Electricity. 
 Translated and Enlarged by JULIUS MAIER, Ph.D. 2 vols. 
 Second Edition, Revised, with many additions and numerous 
 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, I2s. 6d. each volume. 
 VOL. I. Electric Generators, Electric Light. 
 VOL. II. Telephone : Various Applications : Electrical 
 Transmission of Energy. 
 
 Household Readings on Prophecy. By a Layman. Small 
 crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 HUGHES, Henry. The Redemption of the World. Crown 8vo, 
 3*. 6d. 
 
 HUNTINGFORD, Rev. E., D.C.L. The Apocalypse. With a 
 Commentary and Introductory Essay. Demy 8vo, 5-y. 
 
 HUTTON, Arthur, M.A. The Anglican Ministry : Its Nature 
 and Value in relation to the Catholic Priesthood. With a Preface 
 by His Eminence CARDINAL NEWMAN. Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 
 HUTTON, Rev. C. ^.Unconscious Testimony ; or, The Silent 
 Witness of the Hebrew to the Truth of the Historical Scriptures. 
 Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ffYNDMAN, H. M. The Historical Basis of Socialism in 
 England. Large crown 8vo, 8s. 6d, 
 
14 A List of 
 
 IM THURN, Everard F. Among the Indians of Guiana. 
 
 Being Sketches, chiefly anthropologic, from the Interior of British 
 Guiana. With 53 Illustrations and a Map. Demy Svo, iSs. 
 
 Jaunt in a Junk : A Ten Days' Cruise in Indian Seas. Large crown 
 Svo, 7-y. 6d. 
 
 JENKINS, E., and RAYMOND, J. The Architect's Legal 
 Handbook. Third Edition, Revised. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 JENNINGS, Mrs. Vaughan. Rahel : Her Life and Letters. Large 
 post Svo, is. 6d. 
 
 JERVIS, Rev. W. tfenky. 'The Gallican Church and the 
 Revolution. A Sequel to the History of the Church of 
 France, from the Concordat of Bologna to the Revolution. 
 Demy 8vo, i8.r. 
 
 JOEL, L. A Consul's Manual and Shipowner's and Ship- 
 master's Practical Guide in their Transactions 
 Abroad. With Definitions of Nautical, Mercantile, and Legal 
 Terms; a Glossary of Mercantile Terms in English, French, 
 German, Italian, and Spanish ; Tables of the Money, Weights, 
 and Measures of the Principal Commercial Nations and their 
 Equivalents in British Standards ; and Forms of Consular and 
 Notarial Acts. Demy Svo, 125. 
 
 JOHNSTONE, C. F., M.A. Historical Abstracts: being Outlines 
 of the History of some of the less known States of Europe. 
 Crown Svo, 7.?. 6d. 
 
 JOLLY, William, F.R.S.E., etc. The Life of John Duncan, 
 Scotch "Weaver and Botanist. With Sketches of his 
 Friends and Notices of his Times. Second Edition. Large 
 crown Svo, with etched portrait, 9^. 
 
 JONES, C. A. The Foreign Freaks of Five Friends. With 30 
 Illustrations. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 JOYCE, P. W., LL.D. t etc. Old Celtic Romances. Translated 
 from the Gaelic. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 JOYNES, J. L. The Adventures of a Tourist in Ireland. 
 
 Second edition. Small crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 KAUFMANN, Rev. M., B.A. Socialism : its Nature, its Dangers, 
 and its Remedies considered. Crown Svo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 Utopias ; or, Schemes of Social Improvement, from Sir Thomas 
 More to Karl Marx. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 KA Y, David, F.R.G. S. Education and Educators. Crown Svo, 
 7*. 6d. 
 
 KAY, Joseph. Free Trade in Land. Edited by his Widow. With 
 Preface by the Right Hon. JOHN BRIGHT, M.P. Seventh 
 Edition. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Publications. 15 
 
 KEMPIS, Thomas a. Of the Imitation of Christ. Parchment 
 Library Edition. Parchment or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, *]s. 6d. The 
 Red Line Edition, fcap. 8vo, red edges, 2s. 6d. The Cabinet 
 Edition, small 8vo, cloth limp, is. ; cloth boards, red edges, is. 6a. 
 The Miniature Edition, red edges, 32mo, is. 
 * # * All the above Editions may be had in various extra bindings. 
 
 KENT, C. Corona Catholica ad Petri successors Pedes 
 Oblata; De Summi Pontificis Leonis XIII. As- 
 sumptione Epigramma, In Quinquaginta Linguis. Fcap. 
 4to, 15-5-. 
 
 KETTLEWELL, Rev. S. Thomas a Kempis and the Brothers 
 of Common Life. 2 vols. With Frontispieces. Demy 8vo, 
 3<w. 
 
 KIDD, Joseph, M.D. The Laws of Therapeutics ; or, the Science 
 and Art of Medicine. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 KINGSFORD, Anna, M.D. The Perfect Way in Diet. A 
 
 Treatise advocating a Return to the Natural and Ancient Food of 
 our Race. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 
 
 KINGSLEY, Charles, M.A. Letters and Memories of his Life, 
 Edited by his Wife. With two Steel Engraved Portraits, and 
 Vignettes on Wood. Fourteenth Cabinet Edition. 2 vols. Crown 
 8vo, I2s. 
 
 %* Also a People's Edition, in one volume. With Portrait. Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 All Saints' Day, and other Sermons. Edited by the Rev. W. 
 HARRISON. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 7^. 6d. 
 
 True Words for Brave Men. A Book for Soldiers' and 
 Sailors' Libraries. Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 KNOX, Alexander A. The New- Playground ; or, Wanderings in 
 Algeria. New and cheaper edition. Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 LANDON, Joseph. School Management ', Including a General View 
 of the Work of Education, Organization, and Discipline. Third 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 LAURIE, S. S. The Training of Teachers, and other Educational 
 Papers. Crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 LEE, Rev. F. G., D.C.L. The Other World ; or, Glimpses of the 
 Supernatural. 2 vols. A New Edition. Crown 8vo, 15^. 
 
 Letters from a Young Emigrant in Manitoba. Second Edition. 
 Small crown 8vo, 35-. 6d. 
 
 LEWIS, Edward Dillon. A. Draft Code of Criminal Law and 
 Procedure, Demy 8vo, 21 s, 
 
 LILLIE, Arthur, M.R.A.S.^l^Q Popular Life of Buddha. 
 Containing an Answer to the Hibbert Lectures of 1881, With 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
1 6 A List of 
 
 LLOYD, Walter. 'The Hope of the "World : An Essay on Universal 
 Redemption. Crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 LONSDALE, Margaret. Sister Dora : a Biography. With Portrait. 
 Twenty-seventh Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 LOUNSBURY, Thomas R. James Fenimore Cooper. Crown 
 8vo, 5s. 
 
 LOWDER, Charles. & Biography. By the Author of " St. Teresa." 
 New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. With Portrait. 3^. 6d. 
 
 LYTTON, Edward Bulwer, fard.IAte, Letters and Literary 
 Remains. By his Son, the EARL OF LYTTON. With Portraits, 
 Illustrations and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo. Vols. I. and II., 32^. 
 
 MA CAUL AY, G. C. Francis Beaumont : A Critical Study. Crown 
 
 8vo, 5-r. 
 MAC CALLUM, M. W. Studies in Low German and High 
 
 German Literature. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 MACDONALD, George. Donal Grant. A New Novel. 3 vols. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 31^. 6d. 
 MACHIAVELLI, Niccolb. ^itQ and Times. By Prof. Villari. 
 
 Translated by Linda Villari. 4 vols. Large post, 8vo, 48*. 
 
 MACHIA VELLI, Niccolo. Discourses on the First Decade of 
 Titus Livius. Translated from the Italian by NINIAN HILL 
 THOMSON, M.A. Large crown 8vo, 12s. 
 
 The Prince. Translated from the Italian by N. H. T. Small 
 crown 8vo, printed on hand-made paper, bevelled boards, 6s. 
 
 MACKENZIE, Alexander. How India is Governed. Being an 
 
 Account of England's Work in India. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 
 MACNAUGHT, Rev. John. Ccena Domini : An Essay on the Lord's 
 
 Supper, its Primitive Institution, Apostolic Uses, and Subsequent 
 
 History. Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 MAC WALTER, Rev. G. S. Life of Antonio Rosmini Serbati 
 
 (Founder of the Institute of Charity). 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 
 
 [Vol. I. now ready, price I2s. 
 
 MAGNUS, Mrs. About the Jews since Bible Times. From the 
 Babylonian Exile till the English Exodus. Small crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 MAIR, R. S., M.D., F.R.C.S.E.^Ke Medical Guide for Anglo- 
 Indians. Being a Compendium of Advice to Europeans in 
 India, relating to the Preservation and Regulation of Health. 
 With a Supplement on the Management of Children in India, 
 Second Edition. Crown 8vo, limp cloth, %s. 6d. 
 
 MALDEN, Henry Elliot. Vienna, 1683. The History and Conse- 
 quences of the Defeat of the Turks before Vienna, September 
 1 2th, 1683, by John Sobieski, King of Poland, and Charles 
 Leopold, Duke of Lorraine. Crown 8vo, $s. bd. 
 
 Many Voices. A volume of Extracts from the Religious Writers of 
 Christendom from the First to the Sixteenth Century. With 
 Biographical Sketches. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, red edges, 6s. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co!s Publications. 17 
 
 MARKHAM, Capt. Albert ; Hastings, R.N. The Great Frozen Sea : 
 A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the Alert during the Arctic 
 Expedition of 1875-6. With 6 Full-page Illustrations, 2 Maps, 
 and 27 Woodcuts. Sixth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 A Polar Reconnaissance : being the Voyage of the Isbjorn 
 to Novaya Zemlya in 1879. With 10 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 Marriage and Maternity J or, Scripture Wives and Mothers. Small 
 crown 8vo, qs, 6d. 
 
 MARTINEAU, Gertrude. Outline Lessons on Morals. Small 
 crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 MAUDSLEY, H., M.D.Botiy and Will. Being an Essay con- 
 cerning Will, in its Metaphysical, Physiological, and Pathological 
 Aspects. 8vo, I2s. 
 
 McGRATH, Terence. Pictures from Ireland. New and Cheaper 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 
 
 MEREDITH, M.A. Theotokos, the Example for Woman. 
 
 Dedicated, by permission, to Lady Agnes Wood. Revised by 
 the Venerable Archdeacon DENISON. 32mo, limp cloth, is. 6d. 
 
 MILLER, Edward. The History and Doctrines of Irvingism ; 
 or, The so-called Catholic and Apostolic Church. 2 vols. Large 
 post 8vo, 25-r. 
 
 The Church in Relation to the State. Large crown 8vo, 
 7*. 6(t. 
 
 MINCHIN, J. G. Bulgaria since the War : Notes of a Tour in 
 the Autumn of 1879. Small crown 8vo, 3-y. 6d. 
 
 MITCHELL, Lucy M.K History of Ancient Sculpture. With 
 numerous Illustrations, including 6 Plates in Phototype. Super 
 royal 8vo, 42^. 
 
 Selections from Ancient Sculpture. Being a Portfolio con- 
 taining Reproductions in Phototype of 36 Masterpieces of Ancient 
 Art to illustrate Mrs. Mitchell's " History of Ancient Sculpture." 
 18* 
 
 MITFORD, Bertram. Through the Zulu Country. Its Battle- 
 fields and its People. With five Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 14*. 
 
 MOCKLER, E. A Grammar of the Baloochee Language, as 
 it is spoken in Makran (Ancient Gedrosia), in the Persia-Arabic 
 and Roman characters. Fcap. 8vo, $s. 
 
 MOLES WORTH, Rev. W. Nassau, ^/.^.History of the Church 
 of England from 1660. Large crown 8vo, 75. 6d. 
 
 MORELL, J. R. Euclid Simplified in Method and Language. 
 
 Being a Manual of Geometry. Compiled from the most important 
 French Works, approved by the University of Paris and the 
 Minister of Public Instruction, Fcap, 8vo, 2s. d. 
 
 c 
 
18 A List of 
 
 MORRIS, George. The Duality of all Divine Truth in our 
 Lord Jesus Christ. For God's Self-manifestation in the Impar- 
 tation of the Divine Nature to Man. Large crown 8vo, 'js. 6d. 
 
 MORSE, E. S., Ph.D. First Book of Zoology, With numerous 
 Illustrations. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 MURPHY, John Nicholas. The Chair of Peter ", or, The Papacy 
 considered in its Institution, Development, and Organization, and 
 in the Benefits which for over Eighteen Centuries it has conferred 
 on Mankind. Demy 8vo, i8,y. 
 
 My Ducats and My Daughter. A New Novel. 3 vols. Crown 
 8vo, 3u. td. 
 
 NELSON, J. H., M.A.K Prospectus of the Scientific Study 
 of the Hindu Law, Demy 8vo, 9-y. 
 
 NEWMAN, Cardinal. Characteristics from .the "Writings of. 
 Being Selections from his various Works. Arranged with the 
 Author's personal Approval. Sixth Edition. With Portrait. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 *** A Portrait of Cardinal Newman, mounted for framing, can 
 be had, 2s. 6d. 
 
 NEWMAN, Francis William. "Essays on Diet. Small crown Svo, 
 cloth limp, 2s. 
 
 New Truth and the Old Faith : Are they Incompatible ? By a 
 Scientific Layman. Demy Svo, IDS. 6d. 
 
 New Werther. By LOKI. Small crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 NICHDLSON, Edward Byron. The Gospel according to the 
 Hebrews. Its Fragments Translated and Annotated, with a 
 Critical Analysis of the External and Internal Evidence relating 
 to it. Demy Svo, 9^. 6d. 
 
 A New Commentary on the Gospel according to 
 Matthew. Demy Svo, 12s. 
 
 NICOLS, Arthiir, F.G.S., F.R.G. S. Chapters from the Physical 
 History of the Earth : an Introduction to Geology and 
 Palaeontology. With numerous Illustrations. Crown Svo, 5-y. 
 
 NOPS, Marianne. Class Lessons on Euclid. Part I. containing 
 the First Two Books of the Elements. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Notes on St. Paul's Epistle to the Galatians. For Readers of 
 the Authorized Version or the Original Greek. Demy Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Nuces : EXERCISES ON THE SYNTAX OF THE PUBLIC SCHOOL LATIN 
 
 PRIMER. New Edition in Three Parts. Crown Svo, each is, 
 %* The Three Parts can also be had bound together, 3*. 
 
 OATES, Frank, F.R.G.S. Matabele Land and the Victoria 
 Falls. A Naturalist's Wanderings in the Interior of South 
 Africa. Edited by C. G. OATES, B.A. With numerous Illustra- 
 tions and 4 Maps, Demy Svo, 2is. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Publications. 19 
 
 OGLE, W., M.D., F.R. C. P. Aristotle on the Parts of Animals. 
 
 Translated, with Introduction and Notes. Royal 8vo, I2s. 6d. 
 
 0' HAG AN, Lord, K. P. Occasional Papers and Addresses. 
 Large crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 OKEN, Lorenz, Life of. By ALEXANDER ECKER. With Explanatory 
 Notes, Selections from Oken's Correspondence, and Portrait of the 
 Professor. From the German by ALFRED TULK. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 O'MEARA, Kathleen. Frederic Ozanam, Professor of the Sorbonne : 
 His Life and Worke Second Edition. Crown 8vo, *]s. 6d. 
 
 Henri Perreyve and his Counsels to the Sick. Small 
 crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 OSBORNE, Rev. W. A. The Revised Version of the New Tes- 
 tament. A Critical Commentary, with Notes upon the Text. 
 Crown 8vo, 5-r, 
 
 OTTLEY, H. Bickersteth.T'hQ Great Dilemma. Christ His Own 
 Witness or His Own Accuser. Six Lectures. Second Edition. ; 
 Crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 Our Public Schools Eton, Harrow, Winchester, Rugby, 
 "Westminster, Marlborough, The Charterhouse. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 OWEN, F. M. John Keats : a Study. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Across the Hills. Small crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 OWEN, Rev. Robert, B.D. Sanctorale Catholicum ; or, Book of 
 Saints. With Notes, Critical, Exegetical, and Historical. Demy 
 8vo, i&r. 
 
 OXEN ff AM, Rev. F. AfcAwwfo What is the Truth as to Ever- 
 lasting Punishment. Part II. Being an Historical Inquiry; 
 into the Witness and Weight of certain Anti-Origenist Councils. 
 Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 OXONIENSIS. Romanism, Protestantism, Anglicanism. 
 Being a Layman's View of some questions of the Day. Together 
 with Remarks on Dr. Littledale's "Plain Reasons against join- 
 ing the Church of Rome." Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 PALMER, the late William. Notes of a Visit to Russia in 
 1840-1841. Selected and arranged by JOHN H. CARDINAL 
 NEWMAN, with portrait. Crown 8vo, Ss. 6d. 
 
 Early Christian Symbolism. A Series of Compositions from 
 Fresco Paintings, Glasses, and Sculptured Sarcophagi. Edited 
 by the Rev. Provost NORTHCOTE, D.D., and the Rev. Canon 
 BROWNLOW, M.A. In 8 Parts, each with 4 Plates. Folio, 5-r. 
 coloured ; y. plain. 
 
 Parchment Library. Choicely Printed on hand-made paper, limp 
 parchment antique or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, ^s. 6d. each volume. 
 
 The Book of Psalms. Translated by the Rev. T. K. CHEYNE, 
 M.A. 
 
20 A List of 
 
 Parchment Library continued. 
 
 The Vicar of Wakefield. With Preface and Notes by AUSTIN 
 
 DOBSON. 
 
 English Comic Dramatists. Edited by OSWALD CRAWFORD. 
 English Lyrics. 
 The Sonnets of John Milton. Edited by MARK PATTISON. 
 
 With Portrait after Vertue. 
 
 Poems by Alfred Tennyson. 2 vols. With miniature frontis- 
 pieces by W. B. Richmond. 
 
 French Lyrics. Selected and Annotated by GEORGE SAINTS- 
 BURY. With a miniature frontispiece designed and etched by 
 H. G. Glindoni. 
 
 Fables by Mr. John Gay. With Memoir by AUSTIN DOBSON, 
 and an etched portrait from an unfinished Oil Sketch by Sir 
 Godfrey Kneller. 
 
 Select Letters of Percy Bysshe Shelley. Edited, with an 
 Introduction, by RICHARD GARNETT. 
 
 The Christian Year. Thoughts Sn Verse for the Sundays and 
 Holy Days throughout the Year. With Miniature Portrait of the 
 Rev. J. Keble, after a Drawing by G. Richmond, R.A. 
 
 Shakspere's Works. Complete in Twelve Volumes. 
 
 Eighteenth Century Essays. Selected and Edited by AUSTIN 
 DOBSON. With a Miniature Frontispiece by R. Caldecott. 
 
 Q. Horati Flacci Opera. Edited by F. A. CORNISH, Assistant 
 Master at Eton. With a Frontispiece after a design by L. Alma 
 Tadema, etched by Leopold Lowenstam. 
 
 Edgar Allan Poe's Poems. With an Essay on his Poetry by 
 ANDREW LANG, and a Frontispiece by Linley Sambourne. 
 
 Shakspere's Sonnets. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN. With a 
 Frontispiece etched by Leopold Lowenstam, after the Death Mask. 
 
 English Odes. Selected by EDMUND W. GOSSE. With Frontis- 
 piece on India paper by Hamo Thornycroft, A.R.A. 
 
 Of the Imitation of Christ. By THOMAS A KEMPIS. A 
 
 revised Translation. With Frontispiece on India paper, from a 
 
 Design by W. B. Richmond. 
 Tennyson's The Princess: a Medley. With a Miniature 
 
 Frontispiece by H. M. Paget, and a Tailpiece in Outline by 
 
 Gordon Browne. 
 Poems : Selected from PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY. Dedicated to 
 
 Lady Shelley. With a Preface by RICHARD GARNETT and a 
 
 Miniature Frontispiece. 
 Tennyson's In Memoriam. With a Miniature Portrait 
 
 in eau-forte by Le Rat, after a Photograph by the late Mrs. 
 
 Cameron. 
 
 *** The above volumes may also be had in a variety of leather bindings. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench 6* Co.'s Publications* 21 
 
 PARSLOE, Joseph. OUT Railways. Sketches, Historical and 
 Descriptive. With Practical Information as to Fares and Rates, 
 etc., and a Chapter on Railway Reform. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 PAUL, Alexander. Short Parliaments. A History of the National 
 Demand for frequent General Elections. Small crown 8vo, 3.5-. bd. 
 
 PAUL, C. Kegan. Biographical Sketches, Printed on hand-made 
 paper, bound in buckram. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 PEARSON, Rev. S. Week-day Living. A Book for Young Men 
 and Women. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 PESCHEL, Dr. Oscar. The Races of Man and their Geo- 
 
 fraphical Distribution. Second Edition. Large crown 
 ro, 9s. 
 
 PETERS, F. H. The Nicomachean Ethics of Aristotle. Trans- 
 lated by. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 PHIPSON, E. The Animal Lore of Shakspeare's Time. 
 Including Quadrupeds, Birds, Reptiles, Fish and Insects. Large 
 post 8vo, gs. 
 
 PIDGEON, D. An Engineer's Holiday ; or, Notes of a Round 
 Trip from Long. o to o. New and Cheaper Edition. Large 
 crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 POPE, J. Buckingham. Railway Rates and Radical Rule. 
 
 Trade Questions as Election Tests. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 PRICE, Prof. Bonamy. Chapters on Practical Political 
 Economy. Being the Substance of Lectures delivered before 
 the University of Oxford. New and Cheaper Edition. Large 
 post 8vo, S-r. 
 
 Pulpit Commentary, The. (Old Testament Series.) Edited by the 
 Rev. J. S. EXELL, M.A., and the Rev. Canon H. D. M. SPENCE. 
 
 Genesis. By the Rev. T. WHITELAW, M.A. With Homilies by 
 the Very Rev. J. F. MONTGOMERY, D.D., Rev. Prof. R. A. 
 REDFORD, M.A., LL.B., Rev. F. HASTINGS, Rev. W. 
 ROBERTS, M.A. An Introduction to the Study of the Old 
 Testament by the Venerable Archdeacon FARRAR, D.D., F.R.S. ; 
 and Introductions to the Pentateuch by the Right Rev. H. COT- 
 TERILL, D.D., and Rev. T. WHITELAW, M.A. Eighth Edition. 
 i vol., 15-r. 
 
 Exodus. By the Rev. Canon RAWLINSON. With Homilies by 
 Rev. J. ORR, Rev. D. YOUNG, B.A., Rev. C. A. GOODHART, 
 Rev. J. URQUHART, and the Rev. H. T. ROBJOHNS. Fourth 
 Edition. 2 vols., 18.?. 
 
 Leviticus. By the Rev. Prebendary MEYRICK, M.A. With 
 Introductions by the Rev. R. COLLINS, Rev. Professor A. CAVE, 
 and Homilies by Rev. Prof. REDFORD, LL.B., Rev. J. A. 
 MACDONALD, Rev. W. CLARKSON, B.A., Rev. S. R. ALDRIDGE, 
 LL.B., and Rev. McCHEYNE EDGAR. Fourth Edition. 15^. 
 
22 A List of 
 
 Pulpit Commentary, The continued. 
 
 Numbers. By the Rev. R. WINTERBOTHAM, LL.B. With 
 Homilies by the Rev. Professor W. BINNIE, D.D., Rev. E. S. 
 PROUT, M.A., Rev. D. YOUNG, Rev. J. WAITE, and an Intro- 
 duction by the Rev. THOMAS WHITELAW, M.A, Fourth 
 Edition. 15^. 
 
 Deuteronomy. By the Rev. W. L. ALEXANDER, D.D. With 
 
 Homilies by Rev. C. CLEMANCE, D.D., Rev. J. ORR, B.D., 
 
 Rev. R. M. EDGAR, M.A., Rev. D. DAVIES, M.A. Third 
 edition. 15^. 
 
 Joshua. By Rev. J. J. LIAS, M.A. With Homilies by Rev. 
 S. R. ALDRIDGE, LL.B., Rev. R. GLOVER, REV. E. DE 
 PRESSENSE, D.D., Rev. J. WAITE, B.A., Rev. W. F. ADENEY, 
 M.A. ; and an Introduction by the Rev. A. PLUMMER, M.A. 
 Fifth Edition. 12s. 6d. 
 
 Judges and Ruth. By the Bishop of Bath and Wells, and 
 Rev. J. MORRISON, D.D. With Homilies by Rev. A. F. MUIR, 
 M.A., Rev. W. F. ADENEY, M.A., Rev. W. M. STATHAM, and 
 Rev. Professor J. THOMSON, M.A. Fourth Edition. IDS. 6d. 
 
 1 Samuel. By the Very Rev. R. P. SMITH, D.D. With Homilies 
 by Rev. DONALD ERASER, D.D., Rev. Prof. CHAPMATST, and 
 Rev. B. DALE. Sixth Edition. 15*. 
 
 1 Kings. By the Rev. JOSEPH HAMMOND, LL.B. With Homilies 
 by the Rev. E. DE PRESSENSE, D.D., Rer. J. WAITE, B.A., 
 Rev. A. ROWLAND, LL.B., Rev. J. A. MACDONALD, and Rev. 
 J. URQUHART. Fourth Edition. 15^. 
 
 Ezra, Nehemiah, and Esther. By Rev. Canon G. RAWLINSON, 
 M.A. With Homilies by Rev. Prof. J. R. THOMSON, M.A., Rev. 
 Prof. R. A. REDFORD, LL.B., M.A., Rev. W. S. LEWIS, M.A., 
 Rev. J. A. MACDONALD, Rev. A. MACKENNAL, B.A., Rev. W. 
 CLARKSON, B.A., Rev. F. HASTINGS, Rev. W. DINWIDDIE, 
 LL.B., Rev. Prof. ROWLANDS, B.A., Rev. G. WOOD, B.A., 
 Rev. Prof. P. C. BARKER, M.A., LL.B., and the Rev. J. S. 
 EXELL, M.A. Sixth Edition. I vol., 12s. 6d. 
 
 Jeremiah. By the Rev. T. K. CHEYNE, M.A. With Homilies 
 by the Rev. W. F. ADENEY, M.A., Rev. A. F. MUIR, M.A., 
 Rev. S. CONWAY, B.A., Rev. J. WAITE, B.A., and Rev. D. 
 YOUNG, B.A. Vol. L, 153. 
 
 Pulpit Commentary, The. (New Testament Series.) 
 
 St. Mark. By Very Rev. E. BICKERSTETH, D.D., Dean of Lich- 
 field. With Homilies by Rev. Prof. THOMSON, M.A., Rev. Prof. 
 GIVEN, M.A., Rev. Prof. JOHNSON, M.A., Rev. A. ROWLAND, 
 B.A., LL.B., Rev. A. MUIR, and Rev. R. GREEN. 2 vols. 
 Fourth Edition. 2is. 
 
 The Acts of the Apostles. By the Bishop of Bath and Wells, 
 With Homilies by Rev. Prof. P. C. BARKER, M.A., LL.B., Rev. 
 Prof. E. JOHNSON, M.A., Rev. Prof. R. A. REDFORD, M.A., 
 Rev. R. TUCK, B.A., Rev. W. CLARKSON, B,A, 2 vols., 2is. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 23 
 
 Pulpit Commentary, The continued. 
 
 1 Corinthians, By the Yen. Archdeacon FARRAR, D. D. With 
 Homilies by Rev. Ex-Chancellor LIPSCOMB, LL.D., Rev. 
 DAVID THOMAS, D.D., Rev. D. FRASER, D.D., Rev. Prof. 
 J. R. THOMSON, M.A., Rev. J. WAITE, B.A., Rev. R. TUCK, 
 B.A., Rev. E. HURNDALL, M.A., and Rev. H. BREMNER, B.D. 
 Price i5j. 
 
 PUSEY, Dr. Sermons for the Church's Seasons from 
 Advent to Trinity. Selected from the Published Sermons 
 of the late EDWARD BOUVERIE PUSEY, D.D. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 QUILTER, Harry." The Academy," 1872-1882. u. 
 
 RADCLIFFE, Frank R. K The New Politicus. Small crown 8vo, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 RANKE, Leopold von. Universal History. The oldest Historical 
 
 Group of Nations and the Greeks. Edited by G. W. PROTHERO. 
 
 Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 Realities of the Future Life. Small crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 RENDELL, J. J/. Concise Handbook of the Island of 
 
 Madeira. With Plan of Funchal and Map of the Island. Fcap. 
 
 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 REYNOLDS, Rev. J. W. The Supernatural in Nature. A 
 Verification by Free Use of Science. Third Edition, Revised 
 and Enlarged^ Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 
 The Mystery of Miracles. Third and Enlarged Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The Mystery of the Universe ; Our Common Faith. Demy 
 
 8vo, 14^, 
 
 RIBOT, Prof. Th Heredity : A Psychological Study on its Phenomena, 
 its Laws, its Causes, and its Consequences. Second Edition. 
 Large crown 8vo, 9.5-. 
 
 ROBERTSON, The late Rev. F. W., M.A.lLife and Letters of. 
 Edited by the Rev. STOPFORD BROOKE, M.A. 
 
 I. Two vols., uniform with the Sermons. With Steel Portrait. 
 
 Crown 8vo, *js, 6d. 
 
 II. Library Edition, in Demy 8vo, with Portrait. 12s. 
 III. A Popular Edition, in I vol. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Sermons. Four Series. Small crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. each. 
 The Human Race, and other Sermons. Preached at Chelten- 
 ham, Oxford, and Brighton. New and Cheaper Edition. Small 
 crown 8vo, -$s, 6d. 
 Notes on Genesis, New and Cheaper Edition. Small crown 8vo, 
 
 3-r. 6d. 
 
 Expository Lectures on St. Paul's Epistles to the 
 Corinthians. A New Edition. Small crown Svo, $s. 
 
 Lectures and Addresses, with other Literary Remains, A New 
 Edition, Small crown Svo, $s. 
 
24 A List of 
 
 ROBERTSON, The late Rev. F. W., M. A. continued. 
 
 An Analysis of Mr. Tennyson's " In Memoriam." 
 (Dedicated by Permission to the Poet-Laureate.) Fcap. 8vo, 2s. 
 The Education of the Human Race. Translated from the 
 German of GOTTHOLD EPHRAIM LESSING. Fcap. 8vo, 2s, 6d. 
 The above Works can also be had, bound in half morocco. 
 %* A Portrait of the late Rev. F. W. Robertson, mounted for framing, 
 can be had, 2s. 6d. 
 
 ROMANES, G. J. Mental Evolution in Animals. With a 
 Posthumous Essay on Instinct by CHARLES DARWIN, F.R.S. 
 Demy 8vo, I2s. 
 
 R. OS MINI SERB ATI, A., Founder of the Institute of Charity. Life. 
 By G. STUART MACWALTER. 2 vols. 8vo. 
 
 [Vol. I. now ready, 12s. 
 
 Rosmini's Origin of Ideas. Translated from the Fifth Italian 
 Edition of the Nuovo Saggio SulP origine delle idee. 3 vols. 
 Demy 8vo, cloth. [Vols. I. and II. noAV ready, i6s. each. 
 
 Rosmini's Philosophical System. Translated, with a Sketch of 
 the Author's Life, Bibliography, Introduction, and Notes by 
 THOMAS DAVIDSON. Demy 8v6, i6s. 
 
 RULE, Martin, M.A. The Life and Times of St. Anselm, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury and Primate" of the 
 Britains. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 325. 
 
 SAL VA TOR, Archduke Ludwig. Levkosia, the Capital of Cyprus. 
 
 Crown 4to, IQJ. 6d. 
 SAMUEL, Sydney M. Jewish Life in the East. Small crown 
 
 8vo, sj. 6d. 
 SA YCE, Rev. Archibald Henry. Introduction to the Science of 
 
 Language. 2 vols. Second Edition. Large post 8vo, 2is. 
 
 Scientific Layman. The New Truth and the Old Faith : are they 
 Incompatible ? Demy 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 SCOONES, W. JSapfisfe.'Four Centuries of English Letters : 
 A Selection of 350 Letters by 150 Writers, from the Period of the 
 Paston Letters to the Present Time. Third Edition. Large 
 crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 SHILLITO, Rev. Joseph. Womanhood : its Duties, Temptations, 
 and Privileges. A Book for Young Women. Third Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 SHIPLEY, Rev. Orby, M.A. Principles of the Faith in Rela- 
 tion to Sin. Topics for Thought in Times of Retreat. 
 Eleven Addresses delivered during a Retreat of Three Days to 
 Persons living in the World. Demy 8vo, I2s. 
 
 Sister Augustine, Superior of the Sisters of Charity at the St. 
 Johannis Hospital at Bonn. Authorised Translation by HANS 
 THARAU, from the German "Memorials of AMALIE YON 
 LASAULX." Cheap Edition. Large crown 8vo, 4^. 6d. 
 
Regan Paul, Trench & Co!s Publications. 25 
 
 SKINNER, James. A Memoir. By the Author of "Charles Lowder. " 
 With a Preface by the Rev. Canon CARTER, and Portrait. 
 Large crown, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 SMITH, Edward, M.D., LL.B., F.R. S. Tubercular Consump- 
 tion in its Early and Remediable Stages. Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 SPEDDING, James. Reviews and Discussions, Literary, 
 Political, and Historical not relating to Bacon. Demy 
 8vo, i2Jv 6d. 
 
 Evenings with a Reviewer ; or, Bacon and Macaulay. 
 With a Prefatory Notice by G. S. VENABLES, Q.C. 2 vols. 
 Demy 8vo y iSs. 
 
 STAFFER, Paul. Shakspeare and Classical Antiquity : 
 Greek and Latin Antiquity as presented in Shakspeare's Plays. 
 Translated by EMILY J. CAREY. Large post 8vo, I2s. 
 
 STEVENSON, Rev. W. F. Hymns for the Church and Home. 
 Selected and Edited by the Rev. W. FLEMING STEVENSON. 
 
 The Hymn Book consists of Three Parts : I. For Public 
 Worship. II. For Family and Private Worship. III. 
 For Children. 
 
 %* Published in various forms and prices, the latter ranging from 8</. 
 to 6s, 
 
 Stray Papers on Education, and Scenes from School Life. By B. H. 
 Second Edition. Small crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 STREATFEILD, Rev. G. S.,M.A. Lincolnshire and the Danes. 
 Large crown 8vo, 7-y. 6d, 
 
 STRECKER- WISLICENUS. Organic Chemistry. Translated and 
 Edited, with Extensive Additions, by W. R. HODGKINSON, 
 Ph.D., and A. J. GREENAWAY, F.I.C. Demy 8vo, 21 j. 
 
 Study of the Prologue and Epilogue in English Literature. 
 From Shakespeare to Dryden. By G. S. B. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 SULLY, James, M.A. Pessimism : a History and a Criticism. 
 Second Edition. Demy 8vo, 14^. 
 
 SWEDENBORG, JZman.'De Cultu et Amore Dei ubi Agitur 
 de TelLuris ortu, Paradise et Yivario, turn de Pri- 
 mogeniti Seu Adami Nativitate Infantia, et Amore. 
 Crown 8vo, 6^. 
 
 SYME, David. Representative Government in England. Its 
 
 Faults and Failures. Second Edition. Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 TA YLOR, Rev. Isaac. The Alphabet. An Account of the Origin 
 and Development of Letters. With numerous Tables and 
 Facsimiles. 2 vols. Demy Svo, 36^. 
 
26 A List of 
 
 TAYLOR, Sedley. Profit Sharing between Capital and 
 Labour. To which is added a Memorandum on the Industrial 
 Partnership at the Whitwood Collieries, by ARCHIBALD and 
 HENRY BRIGGS, with remarks by SEDLEY TAYLOR. Crown 8vo, 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 Thirty Thousand Thoughts. Edited by the Rev. CANON SPENCE, 
 Rev. J. S. EXELL, Rev. CHARLES NEIL, and Rev. JACOB 
 STEPHENSON. 6 vols. Super royal 8vo. 
 
 [Vols. I. and II. now ready, i6s. each. 
 
 THOM, J. Hamilton. Laws of Life after the Mind of Christ. 
 Second Edition. Crown 8vo, Js. 6d. 
 
 THOMSON, y. TtirnbulL Social Problems ; or, An Inquiry into 
 the Laws of Influence. With Diagrams. Demy 8vo, IDS. 6d. 
 
 TIDMAN, Paul F. Gold and Silver Money. Part I. A Plain 
 Statement. Part II. Objections Answered. Third Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, is. 
 
 TIPPLE, Rev. S. ^.Sunday Mornings at Norwood. Prayers 
 and Sermons. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 TODHUNTER, Dr. y. A Study of Shelley. Crown 8vo, >]s. 
 
 TREMENHEERE, Hugh Seymour, C.B. A Manual of the 
 Principles of Government, as set forth by the Authorities 
 of Ancient and Modern Times. New and Enlarged Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, "$s. 6d, 
 
 TUKE, Daniel Hack, M.D., F.R.C.P. Chapters in the History 
 of the Insane in the British Isles. With 4 Illustrations. 
 Large crown 8vo, I2s. 
 
 TWINING, Louisa. Workhouse Visiting and Management 
 during Twenty-Five Years. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 
 
 TYLER, J. The Mystery of Being: or, What Do We 
 Know ? Small crown 8vo, 3.5-. 6d. 
 
 UPTON, Major R. >. Gleanings from the Desert of Arabia. 
 
 Large post 8vo, IQJ. 6d. 
 
 VACUUS VIATOR. Flying South. Recollections of France and 
 its Littoral. Small crown 8vo, $s. 6</. 
 
 VAUGHAN, H. Halford.TXQw Readings and Renderings of 
 Shakespeare's Tragedies. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 25^. 
 
 VILLARI, Professor. Niccolo Machiavelli and his Times. 
 
 Translated by Linda Villari. 4 vols. Large post 8vo, 48^ 
 
 VILLIERS, The Right Hon. C. P. Free Trade Speeches of. 
 With Political Memoir. Edited by a Member of the Cobden 
 Club. 2 vols. With Portrait. Demy 8vo, 25.?. 
 %* People's Edition, i vol. Crown 8vo, limp cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 
 VOGT, Lietit.-Col. Hermann. -The Egyptian War of 1882. 
 A translation. With Map and Plans. Large crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 27 
 
 VOLCKXSOM, E. W. v. Catechism of Elementary Modern 
 Chemistry. Small crown 8vo, 3-r. 
 
 VYNER, Lady Mary. Kvery Day a Portion. Adapted from the 
 Bible and the Prayer Book, for the Private Devotion of those 
 living in Widowhood. Collected and Edited by Lady Mary 
 Vyner, Square crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 WALDSTEIN, Charles, Ph.D. The Balance of Emotion and 
 Intellect ; an Introductory Essay to the Study of Philosophy. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 WALLER, Rev. C. B. The Apocalypse, reviewed under the Light 
 of the Doctrine of the Unfolding Ages, and the Restitution of All 
 Things. Demy 8vo, \2s. 
 
 WALPOLE, Chas. George. History of Ireland from the Earliest 
 Times to the Union with Great Britain. With 5 Maps 
 and Appendices. Crown 8vo, los. 6d, 
 
 WALSHE, Walter Hayle, M.D. Dramatic Singing Physiolo- 
 gically Estimated. Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 WARD, William George, Ph.D. Essays on the Philosophy of 
 Theism. Edited, with an Introduction, by WILFRID WARD. 
 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 2U. 
 
 WEDDERBURN, Sir David, Bart., M.P.'Life of. Compiled from his 
 Journals and Writings by his sister, Mrs. E. H. PERCIVAL. With 
 etched Portrait, and facsimiles of Pencil Sketches. Demy 8vo, 14-5-. 
 
 WEDMORE, Frederick. The Masters of Genre Painting. With 
 Sixteen Illustrations. Post 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 WHEWELL, William, D.D. His Life and Selections from his 
 Correspondence. By Mrs. STAIR DOUGLAS. With a Portrait 
 from a Painting by Samuel Laurence. Demy 8vo, 2is. 
 
 WHITNEY, Prof. William Dwight. Essentials of English 
 Grammar, for the Use of Schools, Second Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 3,5-. 6d. 
 
 WILLIAMS, Rowland, D.D. Psalms, Litanies, Counsels, and 
 Collects for Devout Persons. Edited by his Widow. New 
 and Popular Edition. Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 Stray Thoughts Collected from the "Writings of the 
 late Rowland "Williams, D.D. Edited by his Widow. 
 Crown 8vo, 3^-. 6d, 
 
 WILSON, Sir Erasmus. The Recent Archaic Discovery of 
 Egyptian Mummies at Thebes. A Lecture. Crown 8vo, 
 is. 6et. 
 
 WILSON, Lieut. -Col. C. T. The Duke of Berwick, Marshal 
 of France, 1702-1734. Demy 8vo, 15*. 
 
 WILSON, Mrs. R. F. The Christian Brothers. Their Origin and 
 Work. With a Sketch of the Life of their Founder, the Ven. 
 JEAN BAPTISTE, de la Salle. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
28 A List of 
 
 WOLTMANN, Dr. Alfred, and WOERMANN, Dr. Karl History 
 of Painting. Edited by SIDNEY COLVIN. Vol. I. Painting 
 in Antiquity and the Middle Ages. With numerous Illustrations. 
 Medium Svo, 28^. ; bevelled boards, gilt leaves, 30.?. 
 
 Word was Made Flesh. Short Family Readings on the Epistles for 
 each Sunday of the Christian Year. Demy 8vo, IGJ. 6d. 
 
 WREN, Sir Christopher. -His Family and His Times. With 
 Original Letters, and a Discourse on Architecture hitherto un- 
 published. By LUCY PHILLIMORE. Demy Svo, los. 6d. 
 
 YOUMANS, Eliza A. First Book of Botany. Designed to 
 Cultivate the Observing Powers of Children. With 300 
 Engravings. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d, 
 
 YOU MANS, Edward Z., M.D.K Class Book of Chemist!^ on 
 the Basis of the New System. With 200 Illustrations, Crown 
 Svo, 5*. 
 
 THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES. 
 
 I. Forms of 'Water: a Familiar Exposition of the Origin and 
 
 Phenomena of Glaciers. By J. Tyndall, LL.D., F.R.S. With 
 25 Illustrations. Eighth Edition. Crown Svo, 5-y. 
 
 II. Physics and Politics ; or, Thoughts on the Application of the 
 
 Principles of "Natural Selection " and " Inheritance " to Political 
 Society. By Walter Bagehot. Sixth Edition. Crown Svo, 4^. 
 
 III. Foods. By Edward Smith, M.D., LL.B., F.R.S. With numerous 
 
 Illustrations. Eighth Edition. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 IV. Mind and Body : the Theories of their Relation. By Alexander 
 
 Bain, LL.D. With Four Illustrations. Seventh Edition. Crown 
 Svo, 4~r. 
 
 V. The Study of Sociology. By Herbert Spencer. Eleventh 
 
 Edition. Crown Svo, 5.?. 
 
 VI. On the Conservation of Energy. By Balfour Stewart, M.A., 
 
 LL.D., F.R.S. With 14 Illustrations. Sixth Edition. Crown 
 Svo, 5-r. 
 
 VII. Animal Locomotion ; or Walking, Swimming, and Flying. By 
 
 J. B. Pettigrew, M.D., F.R.S., etc. With 130 Illustrations. 
 Third Edition. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 VIII. Responsibility in Mental Disease. By Henry Maudsley, 
 
 M.D. Fourth Edition. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 IX. The New Chemistry. By Professor J. P. Cooke. With 31 
 
 Illustrations. Seventh Edition. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications* 29 
 
 X. The Science of Law, By Professor Sheldon Amos. Fifth Edition. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 XI. Animal Mechanism : a Treatise on Terrestrial and Aerial Loco- 
 
 motion. By Professor E. J. Marey. With 117 Illustrations. 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XII. The Doctrine of Descent and Darwinism. By Professor 
 
 Oscar Schmidt. With 26 Illustrations. Fifth Edition. Crown 
 8vo, $s. 
 
 XIII. The History of the Conflict between Religion and 
 
 Science. By J. W. Draper, M.D., LL.D. Eighteenth Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XIV. Fungi :' their Nature, Influences, Uses, etc. By M. C. Cooke, 
 
 M.D., LL.D. Edited by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, M.A., F.L.S. 
 With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XV. The Chemical Effects of Light and Photography. By 
 
 Dr. Hermann Vogel. Translation thoroughly Revised. With 
 IOO Illustrations. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XVI. The Life and Growth of Language. By Professor William 
 
 Dwight Whitney. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XVII. Money and the Mechanism of Exchange. By W. 
 
 Stanley Jevons, M.A., F.R.S. Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 XVIII. The Nature of Light. With a General Account of Physical 
 Optics. By Dr. Eugene Lommel. With 188 Illustrations and a 
 Table of Spectra in Chromo -lithography. Third Edition. Crown 
 8vo, S.T. 
 
 XIX. Animal Parasites and Messmates. By Monsieur Van 
 
 Beneden. With 83 Illustrations. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XX. Fermentation. By Professor Schutzenberger. With 28 Illus- 
 
 trations. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXI. The Five Senses of Man. By Professor Bernstein. With 
 
 91 Illustrations. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XXII. The Theory of Sound in its Relation to Music. By Pro- 
 
 fessor Pietro Blaserna. With numerous Illustrations. Third 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 5.?. 
 
 XXIII. Studies in Spectrum Analysis. By J. Norman Lockyer, 
 F.R.S. With six photographic Illustrations of Spectra, and 
 numerous engravings on Wood. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 
 6s. 6d. 
 
 XXIV. A History of the Growth of the Steam Engine. By 
 
 Professor R. H. Thurston. With numerous Illustrations. Third 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 6d. 
 
 XXV. Education as a Science. By Alexander Bain, LL.D. Fourth 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
30 A List of 
 
 XXVI. The Human Species. By Professor A. de Quatrefages. Third 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXVII. Modern Chromatics. With Applications to Art and In- 
 dustry. By Ogden N. Rood. With 130 original Illustrations. 
 Second Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXVIII. The Crayfish : an Introduction to the Study of Zoology.. By 
 Professor T. H. Huxley. With 82 Illustrations. Third Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 5 J 
 
 XXIX. The Brain as an Organ of Mind. By H. Charlton Bastian, 
 M.D. With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition. Crown 
 8vo, 5*. 
 
 XXX. The Atomic Theory. By Prof. Wurtz. Translated by G. 
 
 Cleminshaw, F.C.S. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XXXI. The Natural Conditions of Existence as they affect 
 Animal Life. By Karl Semper. With 2 Maps and 106 
 Woodcuts. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XXXII. General Physiology of Muscles and Nerves. By Prof. 
 J. Rosenthal. Third Edition. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 
 5*- 
 
 XXXIII. Sight : an Exposition of the Principles of Monocular and 
 Binocular Vision. By Joseph le Conte, LL.D. Second Edition. 
 With 132 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXXIV. Illusions : a Psychological Study. By James Sully. Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XXXV. Volcanoes : what they are and what they teach. 
 By Professor J. W. Judd, F.R.S. With 92 Illustrations on 
 Wood. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXXVI. Suicide : an Essay in Comparative Moral Statistics. By Prof. 
 E. Morselli. Second Edition. With Diagrams. Crown 8vo, $j. 
 
 XXXVII. The Brain and its Functions. By J. Luys. With 
 Illustrations. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XXXVIII. Myth and Science : an Essay. By Tito Vignoli, Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XXXIX. The Sun. By Professor Young. With Illustrations. Second 
 Edition. Crow r n 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XL. Ants, Bees, and Wasps : a Record of Observations on the 
 Habits of the Social Hymenoptera. By Sir John Lubbock, Bart., 
 M.P. With 5 Chromo-lithographic Illustrations. Sixth Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, fr, 
 
 XLI. Animal Intelligence. By G. J. Romanes, LL.D., F.R.S. 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 31 
 
 XLII. The Concepts and Theories of Modern Physics. By 
 J. B. Stallo. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 XLIII. Diseases of the Memory ", An Essay in the Positive Psycho- 
 logy. By Prof. Th. Ribot. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XLIV. Man before Metals. By N. Joly, with 148 Illustrations. 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 XLV. The Science of Politics. By Prof. Sheldon Amos. Second 
 Edition. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 XLVI. Elementary Meteorology. By Robert H. Scott. Second 
 Edition. With Numerous Illustrations. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 XLVII. The Organs of Speech and their Application in the 
 Formation of Articulate Sounds. By Georg Hermann 
 Von Meyer. With 47 Woodcuts. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 XLVIII. Fallacies. A View of Logic from the Practical Side. By 
 Alfred Sidgwick. Crown Svo, 5,5-. 
 
 MILITARY WORKS. 
 
 BARRINGTON, Capt. J. T. England on the Defensive ; or, the 
 Problem of Invasion Critically Examined. Large crown Svo, 
 with Map, 7-f. 6*/. 
 
 BRACKENBURY, Col. C. B., R.A. Military Handbooks for 
 Regimental Officers. 
 
 I. Military Sketching and Reconnaissance. By Col. 
 F. J. Hutchison and Major H. G. MacGregor. Fourth 
 Edition. With 15 Plates. Small crown Svo, 4^. 
 
 II. The Elements of Modern Tactics Practically 
 applied to English Formations. By Lieut. -Col. 
 Wilkinson Shaw. Fourth Edition. With 25 Plates and 
 Maps. Small crown Svo, gs. 
 
 III. Field Artillery. Its Equipment, Organization and Tactics. 
 
 By Major Sisson C. Pratt, R.A. With 12 Plates. Second 
 Edition. Small crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 IV. The Elements of Military Administration. First 
 
 Part : Permanent System of Administration. By Major 
 J. W. Buxton. Small crown Svo. Js. 6d. 
 
 V. Military Law : Its Procedure and Practice. By Major 
 
 Sisson C. Pratt, R.A. Second Edition. Small crown Svo, 
 4*. &/. 
 
 BROOKE, Major, C. JT. -A System of Field Training. Small 
 crown Svo, cloth limp, 2s. 
 
32 A List of 
 
 CLERY, C., Lieut.-Col. Minor Tactics. With 26 Maps and Plans. 
 Sixth and Cheaper Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, gs. 
 
 COLVILE, Lieut.-Col. C. ^.Military Tribunals. Sewed, 2s. 6J. 
 
 CRAUFURD, Lieut. H.J. Suggestions for the Military Train- 
 ing of a Company of Infantry. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 HARRISON, Lietit.-Col. R. The Officer's Memorandum Book 
 for Peace and "War. Third Edition. Oblong 321*10, roan, 
 with pencil, y. 6d. 
 
 Notes on Cavalry Tactics, Organisation, etc. By a Cavalry 
 Officer. With Diagrams. Demy 8vo, 12*, 
 
 PARR, Capt. H. Hallam, C.M.G.The Dress, Horses, and 
 Equipment of Infantry and Staff Officers. Crown 
 8vo, is. 
 
 SCHAW, Col H. The Defence and Attack of Positions and 
 Localities. Second Edition, Revised and Corrected. Crown 
 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 SHADWELL, Maj.-Gen., C.B. Mountain Warfare. Illustrated 
 by the Campaign of 1799 in Switzerland. Being a Translation of 
 the Swiss Narrative compiled from the Works of the Archduke 
 Charles, Jomini, and others. Also of Notes by General H. 
 Dufour on the Campaign of the Valtelline in 1635. With Appen- 
 dix, Maps, and Introductory Remarks. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 WILKINSON, H. Spenser, Capt. 2Otk Lancashire R. V. Citizen 
 Soldiers. Essays towards the Improvement of the Volunteer 
 Force. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 POETRY. 
 
 ADAM OF ST. VICTOR. The Liturgical Poetry of Adam of 
 St. Victor. From the text of GAUTIER. With Translations into 
 English in the Original Metres, and Short Explanatory Notes, 
 by DIGBY S. WRANGHAM, M.A. 3 vols. Crown 8vo, printed 
 on hand-made paper, boards, 2is. 
 
 AUCHMUTY, A. C. Poems of English Heroism : From Brunan- 
 burh to Lucknow ; from Athelstan to Albert. Small crown 8vo, 
 is. 6d. 
 
 AVSA.The Odyssey of Homer. Done into English Verse by. 
 Fcap. 4to, 15.?. 
 
 BANKS, Mrs. G. L. Ripples and Breakers : Poems. Square 
 8vo, 5s. 
 
 BARING, T. C., M.A., M.P.The Scheme of Epicurus. A 
 Rendering into English Verse of the Unfinished Poem of Lucretius, 
 entitled " De Rerum Natura" ("The Nature of Things"). 
 Fcap. 4to. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Publications. 33 
 
 BARNES, William. Poems of Rural Life, in the Dorset 
 Dialect. New Edition, complete in one vol. Crown 8vo, 
 Ss. 6d. 
 
 BAYNES, Rev. Canon If. R. Home Songs for Quiet Hours. 
 
 Fourth and Cheaper Edition. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 2s. bd. 
 %* This may also be had handsomely bound in morocco with 
 gilt edges. 
 
 BENDALL, Gerard. Musa Silvestris, i6mo, is. 6d. 
 BEVINGTON, L. S. Key Notes. Small crown 8vo, 5*. 
 
 BILLSON, C. y. The Acharnians of Aristophanes. Crown 
 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 BLUNT, Wilfrid Scawen. The Wind and the Whirlwind. 
 Demy 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 BOWEN, H. C., M.A. Simple English Poems. English Literatui 
 for Junior Classes. In Four Parts. Parts I., II., and III., 6d. 
 each, and Part IV., is. Complete, 3-r. 
 
 BRASHER, Alfred. Sophia ; or, the Viceroy of Valencia. A Comedy 
 in Five Acts, founded on a Story in Scarron. Small crown 8vo, 
 
 25. 6ct. 
 
 BRYANT, W. C. Poems. Cheap Edition, with Frontispiece. Small 
 crown 8vo, 3-y. 6d. 
 
 BYRNNE, E. Fairfax. Milicent : a Poem. Small crown 8vo, 6.r. 
 
 CAILLARD, Emma Marie. Charlotte Corday, and other Poems. 
 Small crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 Calderon's Dramas : the Wonder- Working Magician Life is a 
 Dream the Purgatory of St. Patrick. Translated by DENIS 
 FLORENCE MACCARTHY. Post 8vo, los. 
 
 Gamoens Lusiads. Portuguese Text, with Translation by J. J. 
 AUBERTIN. Second Edition. 2 vols. Crown 8vo, 12s. 
 
 CAMPBELL, Lewis. Sophocles. The Seven Plays in English Verse. 
 Crown 8vo, 7-r. 6d. 
 
 Castilian Brothers (The), Chateaubriant, Waldemar : Three 
 Tragedies ; and The Rose of Sicily : a Drama. By the 
 Author of " Ginevra," etc. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Chronicles of Christopher Columbus. A Poem in 12 Cantos. 
 By M. D. C. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 CLARICE, Mary Cowden. Honey from the Weed. Verses. 
 Crown 8vo, 'js. 
 
 Cosmo de Medici ; The False One ; Agramont and Beau- 
 mont : Three Tragedies ; and The Deformed : a Dramatic 
 Sketch. By the Author of " Ginevra," etc., etc. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
34 A List of 
 
 COXHEAD, Ethel Birds and Babies. Imp. i6mo. With 33 
 Illustrations. Gilt, 2s. 6d. 
 
 David Rizzio, Both well, and the Witch Lady : Three 
 Tragedies. By the author of " Ginevra," etc. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DAVIEy G.S., M.D. The Garden of Fragrance. Being a com- 
 plete translation of the Bostan of Sadi from the original Persian 
 into English Verse. Crown 8vo, Js. 6d. 
 
 DA VIES, T. Hart. Catullus. Translated into English Verse. Crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 DENNIS, y. English Sonnets. Collected and Arranged by. Small 
 crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 DE VERE, Aubrey. Poetical Works. 
 
 I. THE SEARCH AFTER PROSERPINE, etc. 6s. 
 II. THE LEGENDS OF ST. PATRICK, etc. 6s. 
 III. ALEXANDER THE GREAT, etc. 6j. 
 
 The Foray of Queen Meave, and other Legends of Ireland's 
 Heroic Age. Small crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 Legends of the Saxon Saints. Small crown 8vo, 6s. 
 DILLON, Arthur. River Songs and other Poems. With 13 
 autotype Illustrations from designs by Margery May. Fcap. 4to, 
 cloth extra, gilt leaves, los. 6d. 
 
 DOB ELL, Mrs. Horace. Ethelstone, Eveline, and other Poems. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 DOB SON, Austin. Old World Idylls and other Poems. Third 
 
 Edition. i8mo, cloth extra, gilt tops, 6s. 
 
 DOMET, Alfred. Ranolf and Amohia. A Dream of Two Lives. 
 
 New Edition, Revised. 2 vols. Crown 8vo, 12s. 
 
 Dorothy : a Country Story in Elegiac Verse. With Preface. Demy 
 8vo, 5^. 
 
 DOWDEN, Edward, LL.D. Shakspere's Sonnets. With Intro- 
 duction and Notes. Large post 8vo, Js. 6d. 
 
 DUTT, Toru.~-K Sheaf Gleaned in French Fields. New Edition. 
 Demy 8vo, IDS. 6d. 
 
 EDMONDS, E. W. Hesperas. Rhythm and Rhyme. Crown 8vo, 4^. 
 
 ELDRYTH, Maud. Margaret, and other Poems. Small crown 8vo, 
 
 3-r. 6d. 
 
 All Soul's Eve, " No God, "and other Poems. Fcap. 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 ELLIOTT, Ebenezer, The Corn Law Rhymer. Poems. Edited by his 
 
 son, the Rev. EDWIN ELLIOTT, of St. John's, Antigua. 2 vols. 
 
 Crown 8vo, i8.r. 
 
 English Odes. Selected, with a Critical Introduction by EDMUND W. 
 GOSSE, and a miniature frontispiece by Hamo Thornycroft, 
 A.R.A. Elzevir 8vo, limp parchment antique, or cloth, 6s. ; 
 vellum, 7.?. 6d. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications. 35 
 
 Knglish Verse. Edited by W. J. LINTON and R. H. STODDARD. 
 
 5 vols. Crown Svo, cloth, $s. each. 
 I. CHAUCER TO BURNS. 
 II. TRANSLATIONS. 
 
 III. LYRICS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 IV. DRAMATIC SCENES AND CHARACTERS. 
 V. BALLADS AND ROMANCES. 
 
 EVANS, Anne. Poems and Music. With Memorial Preface by 
 ANN THACKERAY RITCHIE. Large crown Svo, 7^. 
 
 GOSSE, Edmund W. New Poems. Crown Svo, 7^. 6d. 
 GRAHAM, William. Two Fancies, and other Poems. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 GRINDROD, Charles. Plays from English History. Crown 
 
 Svo, 7*. 6d. 
 
 The Stranger's Story, and his Poem, The Lament of Love : An 
 Episode of the Malvern Hills. Small crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 GURNEY, Rev. Alfred. The Vision of the Eucharist, and other 
 Poems. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 HELLON, H. G. Daphnis : a Pastoral Poem. Small crown Svo, 
 3*. 6d. 
 
 HENRY, Daniel, Junr. Under a Fool's Cap. Songs. Crown Svo, 
 
 cloth, bevelled boards, 5-r. 
 Herman Waldgrave : a Life's Drama. By the Author of " Ginevra," 
 
 etc. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 HICKEY, E. H. A Sculptor, and other Poems. Small crown 
 Svo, 5j. 
 
 HONEYWOOD, Patty. Poems. Dedicated (by permission) to Lord 
 Wolseley, G.C.B., etc. Small crown Svo, 2s. bd. 
 
 INGHAM, Sarson, C. J. Gaedmon's Vision, and other Poems. 
 Small crown Svo, 5^. 
 
 JENKINS, Rev. Canon. Alfonso Petrucci, Cardinal and Con- 
 spirator: an Historical Tragedy in Five Acts. Small crown Svo, 
 3-r. 6d. 
 
 JOHNSON, Ernie S. W. Ilaria, and other Poems. Small crown Svo, 
 3J. 6d. 
 
 KEA TS, John. Poetical Works. Edited by W. T. ARNOLD. Large 
 crown Svo, choicely printed on hand-made paper, with Portrait 
 in eau-forte. Parchment, 12s. ; vellum, 15^. 
 
 KING, Edward. Echoes from the Orient. With Miscellaneous 
 Poems. Small crown Svo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 KING, Mrs. Hamilton. The Disciples. Sixth Edition, with Portrait 
 and Notes. Crown Svo, 5-r. 
 
 A Book of Dreams. Crown Svo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 KNOX, The Hon. Mrs. 0. TV. Four Pictures from a Life, and 
 other Poems. Small crown Svo, 31. 6rf. 
 
36 A List of 
 
 LANG, A. XXXII Ballades in Blue China. Elzevir 8vo, 
 parchment, 5*. 
 
 LAWSON, Right Hon. Mr. Justice. Hymni Usitati Latino 
 Redditi : with other Verses. Small 8vo, parchment, $s. 
 
 Lessings Nathan the 'Wise. Translated by EUSTACE K. CORBETT. 
 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Life Thoughts. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Living English Poets MDCCCLXXXIL With Frontispiece by 
 Walter Crane. Second Edition. Large crown 8vo. Printed on 
 hand-made paper. Parchment, 12s. ; vellum, 15^. 
 
 LOCKER, ^.London Lyrics. A New and Cheaper Edition. 
 Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Love in Idleness. A Volume of Poems. With an etching by W. B. 
 Scott. Small crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 Love Sonnets of Proteus. With Frontispiece by the Author. Elzevir 
 8vo, ST. 
 
 LUMSDEN, Lieut. -Col. H. W. Beowulf : an Old English Poem. 
 Translated into Modern Rhymes. Second and Revised Edition. 
 Small crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 Lyre and Star. Poems by the Author of " Ginevra," etc. Crown 
 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 MAGNUSSON, Eirikr, M.A., and PALMER, E. H., M.A. Johan 
 Ludvig Runeberg's Lyrical Songs, Idylls, and Epi- 
 grams. Fcap. 8vo, 5-y. 
 
 M.D.C. Chronicles of Christopher Columbus. A Poem in 
 Twelve Cantos. Crown 8vo, 7^. 6d. 
 
 MEREDITH, Owen [The Earl of Lytton]. Lucile. New Edition. 
 
 With 32 Illustrations. l6mo, 3-$-. 6d. Cloth extra, gilt edges, 
 
 4*. 6d. 
 MORRIS, Lewis. Poetical "Works of. New and Cheaper Editions, 
 
 with Portrait. Complete in 3 vols., 5-r. each. 
 Vol. I. contains " Songs of Two Worlds." Ninth Edition. Vol. II. 
 
 contains "The Epic of Hades." Seventeenth Edition. Vol.111. 
 
 contains " Gwen " and " The Ode of Life." Fifth Edition. 
 
 The Epic of Hades. With 16 Autotype Illustrations, after the 
 Drawings of the late George R. Chapman. 4to, cloth extra, gilt 
 leaves, 21 s. 
 
 The Epic of Hades. Presentation Edition. 4to, cloth extra, 
 gilt leaves, IDJ. 6d. 
 
 Songs Unsung. Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 MORSHEAD. E. D. A. The House of Atreus. Being the 
 Agamemnon, Libation-Bearers, and Furies of ^Eschylus. Trans- 
 lated into English Verse. Crown 8vo, Js. 
 The Suppliant Maidens of ^Eschylus. Crown 8vo, 3*. 6d. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Publications. 37 
 
 NADEN, Constance W. Songs and Sonnets of Spring Time. 
 Small crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 NEWELL, E. J. The Sorrows of Simon a and Lyrical 
 Verses. Small crown 8vo, 3^. 6a. 
 
 NOEL, The Hon. Roden. A Little Child's Monument. Third 
 Edition. Small crown Svo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 The Red Flag, and other Poems. New Edition. Small crown 
 8vo, 6s. 
 
 O 1 HAG AN, >/w. The Song of Roland. Translated into English 
 Verse. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 PFEIFFER, Emily. The Rhyme of the Lady of the Lock, 
 and How it Grew. Small crown 8vo, 3*. 6d. 
 
 Gerard's Monument, and other Poems. Second Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Under the Aspens ". Lyrical and Dramatic. With Portrait. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 PI ATT, J. J. Idyls and Lyrics of the Ohio Valley. Crown 
 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 POE, Edgar Allan. Poems. With an Essay on his Poetry by ANDREW 
 LANG, and a Frontispiece by Linley Sambourne. Parchment 
 Library Edition. Parchment or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, JS. 6d. 
 
 RAFFALOVICH, Mark Andre. Cyril and Lionel, and other 
 Poems. A volume of Sentimental Studies. Small crown Svo, 
 3J. 6d. 
 
 Rare Poems of the 16th and 17th Centuries. Edited W. J. 
 LINTON. Crown Svo, $s. 
 
 RHOADES, James. The Georgics of Virgil. Translated into 
 English Verse. Small crown Svo, $s. 
 
 ROBINSON, A. Mary F. A Handful of Honeysuckle. Fcap. 
 
 Svo, 3.?. 6d. 
 
 The Crowned Hippolytus. Translated from Euripides. With 
 New Poems. Small crown Svo, 5-y. 
 
 Schiller's Mary Stuart. German Text, with English Translation on 
 opposite page by LEEDHAM WHITE. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 SCOTT, George F. ^.Theodora and other Poems. Small 
 crown Svo, 3-f. 6d. 
 
 SEAL, W. H. lone, and other Poems. Crown Svo, gilt tops, 5^. 
 
 SELKIRK, J. B. Poems. Crown Svo, js. 6d. 
 
 Shakspere's Sonnets. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN. With a Fron- 
 tispiece etched by Leopold Lowenstam, after the Death Mask. 
 Parchment Library Edition. Parchment or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, 
 js. 6d. 
 
38 A List of 
 
 Shakspere's "Works. Complete in 12 Volumes. Parchment Library 
 Edition.' Parchment or cloth, 6s. each; vellum, "js. 6d. each. 
 
 SHAW, W. P., M.A. Juvenal, Persius, Martial, and Catullus. 
 An Experiment in Translation. Crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 SHELLEY, Percy Bysshe. Poems Selected from. Dedicated to 
 Lady Shelley. With Preface by RICHARD GARNETT. Parchment 
 Library Edition. Parchment or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, 'js. 6d. 
 
 Six Ballads about King Arthur. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt 
 
 edges, 3-r. 6d. 
 SKINNER, H. J. The Lily of the Lyn, and other Poems. Small 
 
 crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 SLADEN, Douglas B. Frithjof and Ingebjorg, and other 
 Poems. Small crown 8vo, 5^. 
 
 SMITH, J. W. Gittarf.The Loves of Vandyck. A Tale of Genoa. 
 Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Sophocles ", The Seven Plays in English Verse. Translated by LEWIS 
 CAMPBELL. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 SPICER, Henry. Haska : a Drama in Three Acts (as represented 
 at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, March roth, 1877). Third 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 TAYLOR, Sir H. "Works. Complete in Five Volumes. Crown 
 8vo, 30;-. 
 
 Philip Van Artevelde. Fcap. 8vo, 3*. 6d. 
 The Virgin Widow, etc. Fcap. 8vo, 3*. 6d. 
 The Statesman. Fcap. 8vo, 3-r. 6d, 
 TAYLOR, Augustus. Poems. Fcap. 8vo, 5-r. 
 
 Tennyson Birthday Book, The. Edited by EMILY SHAKESPEAR. 
 
 32mo, limp, 2s. ; cloth extra, 3^. 
 
 * # * A superior Edition, printed in red and black, on antique paper, 
 specially prepared. Small crown 8vo, extra, gilt leaves, $s. ; 
 and in various calf and morocco bindings. 
 
 THORNTON, L. M.The Son of Shelomith. Small crown 8vo, 
 3-r. 6d. 
 
 TODHUNTER, Dr. J. Laurella, and other Poems. Crown 8vo, 
 6s. 6d. 
 
 Forest Songs. Small crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 The True Tragedy of Rienzi : a Drama. 3*. 6d. 
 
 Alcestis : a Dramatic Poem. Extra fcap. 8vo, 5-y. 
 
 WALTERS, Sophia Lydia. A Dreamer's Sketch Book. With 21 
 Illustrations by Percival Skelton, R. P. Leitch, W. H. J. Boot, and 
 T. R. Pritchett. Engraved byj. D. Cooper. Fcap. 4to, I2J. 6d. 
 
 WA TTS, Alaric Alfred and Anna Mary Howitt. Aurora. A Medley 
 of Verse. Fcap. 8vo, bevelled boards, 5^. 
 
Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 39 
 
 WEBSTER, Augusta. -In a Day : a Drama. Small crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Disguises : a Drama. Small crown 8vo, 5*. 
 'Wet Days. By a Farmer. Small crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 WILLIAMS, y. A Story of Three Years, and other Poems. Small 
 crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 
 Wordsworth Birthday Book, The. Edited by ADELAIDE and 
 VIOLET WORDSWORTH. 32010, limp cloth, i s. 6d. ; cloth extra, 2s. 
 YOUNGS, Ella Sharps. Paphus, and other Poems. Small crown 8vo, 
 . 6d. 
 
 WORKS OF FICTION IN ONE VOLUME. 
 
 BANKS, Mrs. G. L. God's Providence House. New Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, %s. 6d. 
 
 INGELOW, Jean.QK. the Skelligs : a Novel. With Frontispiece. 
 Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 MACDONALD, . Castle Warlock. A Novel. New and Cheaper 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Malcolm. With Portrait of the Author engraved on Steel. Sixth 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The Marquis of Lossie. Fifth Edition. With Frontispiece. 
 Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 St. George and St. Michael. Fourth Edition. With Frontis- 
 piece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 PALGRAVE, W. Gifford. Hermann Agha ". an Eastern Narrative. 
 Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 SHA W, Flora L. Castle Blair ; a Story of Youthful Days. New and 
 Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 3.?. 6d. 
 
 STRETTON, Hesba, Through a Needle's Eye : a Story. New 
 and Cheaper Edition, with Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 TAYLOR, Col. Meadows, C.S.L, M.R.I.A. Seeta : a Novel. New 
 and Cheaper Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Tippoo Sultaun : a Tale of the Mysore War. New Edition, with 
 Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Ralph Darnell. New and Cheaper Edition. With Frontispiece. 
 Crown 8vo, 6.r. 
 
 A Noble Queen. New and Cheaper Edition. With Frontis- 
 piece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 The Confessions of a Thug. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Tara : a Mahratta Tale. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Within Sound of the Sea. New and Cheaper Edition, with Frontis- 
 piece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
4O A List of Kegan Paul, Trench & Co.'s Publications. 
 
 BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG. 
 
 Brave Men's Footsteps. A Book of Example and Anecdote for 
 Young People. By the Editor of "Men who have Risen." With 
 4 Illustrations by C. Doyle. Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo, 3*. 6d. 
 
 COXHEAD, Ethel. Birds and Babies. Imp. i6mo. With 33, 
 Illustrations. Cloth gilt, 2s. bd. 
 
 DAVIES, G. Christopher. Rambles and Adventures of our 
 School Field Club. With 4 Illustrations. New and Cheaper 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 EDMONDS, Herbert. Well Spent Lives : a Series of Modern Bio- 
 graphies. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 EVANS, Mark. The Story of our Father's Love, told to Children. 
 Sixth and Cheaper Edition of Theology for Children. With 4 
 Illustrations. Fcap. 8vo, is. 6d. 
 
 JOHNSON, Virginia W. The Catskill Fairies. Illustrated by 
 Alfred Fredericks. $s. 
 
 MAC KENNA, S. J. Plucky Fellows. A Book for Boys. With 
 6 Illustrations. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, 3-r. 6d. 
 
 REANEY, Mrs. G. S. Waking and "Working ; or, From Girlhood 
 to Womanhood. New and Cheaper Edition. With a Frontis- 
 piece. Crown 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 Blessing and Blessed : a Sketch of Girl Life. New and 
 
 Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 3-y. 6d. 
 Rose Gurney's Discovery. A Book for Girls. Dedicated to 
 
 their Mothers. Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. 
 English Girls : Their Place and Power. With Preface by the 
 
 Rev. R. W. Dale. Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 Just Anyone, and other Stories. Three Illustrations. Royal 
 
 i6mo, is. 6d. 
 Sunbeam Willie, and other Stories. Three Illustrations. Royal 
 
 i6mo, is. 6d. 
 
 Sunshine Jenny, and other Stories. Three Illustrations. Royal 
 i6mo, is. 6d. 
 
 STOCKTON, Frank R.K Jolly Fellowship. With 20 Illustra- 
 tions. Crown 8vo, $s. 
 
 STORR, Francis, and TURNER, Hawes. Canterbury Chimes ; 
 or, Chaucer Tales re-told to Children. With 6 Illustrations from 
 the Ellesmere MS. Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo, $s. 6d. 
 
 STRETTON, Hesba.-lDa.-via Lloyd's Last Will. With 4 Illustra- 
 tions. New Edition. Royal i6mo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Tales from Ariosto Re-told for Children. By a Lady. With 3 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 4-f. 6d. 
 
 WHITAKER, Florence. Christy's Inheritance. A London Story. 
 Illustrated. Royal i6mo, is. 6d. 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES, 
 
 ' . 
 
RETURN TO the circulation desk of any 
 University of California Library 
 
 or to the 
 
 NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station 
 University of California 
 Richmond, CA 94804-4698 
 
 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 
 
 2-month loans may be renewed by calling 
 (510)642-6753 
 
 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing 
 books to NRLF 
 
 Renewals and recharges may be made 4 
 days prior to due date. 
 
 DUE AS STAMPED BELOW 
 SENT ON ILL 
 
 JUN 23 2000 
 
 U. C. BERKELEY 
 
 12,000(11/95)