ftCROSS 
 
 Trie 
 
 ftTLftNTIC 
 
 l\ 
 
 A^fDERTO^f 
 
 LO 
 
 xO 
 
 o 
 a 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
ACROSS THE ATLANTIC 
 
 ROBERT ANDERTON NAYLOR, 
 
 M.S.A., F.R.S.L., F.R.MET.S., F.R.HisT.S., F.R.G.S., ETC. 
 
 AUTHOR OF 
 
 "Nngce Canorce" "\Hymns for the People" "Prince Oscars 
 
 Marriage Ode," "Shall we Know tliem Again? 
 
 " Siveden 1882, Norway 1884," " Chaschvorth 
 
 Waters" "Songs of Truth" 
 
 "Joe and Joe," 
 
 Etc. 
 
 THE ROXBURGHE PRESS, 
 
 3, VICTORIA STREET, WESTMINSTER, 
 AND 32, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
THIS LITTLE 
 
 SKETCH OF A VERY INTERESTING TOUR 
 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 
 
 TO 
 
 THE MEMBERS OF THE ARTS SOCIETY, 
 WHO, ALONG WITH THE WRITER, 
 
 VISITED THE 
 "WORLD S FAIR" AT CHICAGO IN 1893, 
 
 AS A SLIGHT TESTIMONY 
 
 OF THE WORTH OF THE GOOD COMPANIONSHIP 
 
 WHICH SO TENDED TO MAKE THE 
 
 EXCURSION A SOURCE 
 OF PLEASURABLE DELIGHT, DOWNRIGHT ENJOYMENT, 
 
 AND 
 ABIDING SATISFACTION. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 If any book should answer the design 
 Its author or its authoress should claim, 
 How unimportant sounds the angry whine 
 Of adverse critics, who can only blame ! 
 
 SOME members, no doubt, of the Arts 
 Society collected far more valuable 
 materials for the production of a volume to 
 serve as a souvenir of our charming trip across 
 the Atlantic than myself; but as I understood 
 none of these interesting documents would 
 appear in printed form, I undertook the task 
 of permanently preserving a few ideas for 
 presentation to the members of our party, the 
 majority of whom possessed such a fascinating 
 individuality as to give a diversified pleasure 
 to those who had the honour of forming their 
 acquaintance. 
 
 To describe their attractive, though decidedly 
 different, personalities, would indeed be a 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 pleasant employment ; for even to permit the 
 wonderful revolutions of thought and imagina 
 tion now to dwell on the special traits of 
 character displayed by them, gives such a 
 variation of gratifying pleasure as to prove 
 the wisdom of the Infinite in not making two 
 blades of grass exactly alike, nor the permission 
 that two human beings should be moulded 
 precisely after the same fashion. 
 
 Thus, when Nature is allowed to have her 
 own way, and the imitative faculty discouraged, 
 humanity displays her special and peculiar 
 developments, and demonstrates with remark 
 able force that the differences of temperament, 
 when controlled by that Divine law before 
 which all should bow, constitute one of the 
 finest conceptions in the orderings of an all-wise 
 Providence. 
 
 So in human productions, whether in the 
 region of poetry, music, art, or science, the 
 special features of man are found impressed 
 if uninfluenced by prejudicial leanings with 
 a vivid correctness. And this is perhaps in no 
 way better demonstrated than when a man 
 
Preface. ix 
 
 presents his own ideas and opinions of men, 
 places, and things in the writing of a Souvenir, 
 such as the present, for instance, or something 
 of a much more imposing character. 
 
 Perhaps no two members of this particular 
 party, with the necessary courage to publicly 
 express an independent opinion, would have 
 written words conveying the same meaning 
 upon all the subjects dealt with in this volume ; 
 for the susceptibilities of one nature might 
 bear a distinctive contrast to another, and 
 consequently the recorded impressions could 
 not possibly have been the same. 
 
 Therefore, what is generally needed is, that 
 a man should remain himself at all times, and 
 not degenerate into a mere copyist; but dis 
 play his own special characteristics, and when 
 giving an expression to his thoughts, have the 
 manliness to claim them as his own, without 
 either shirking the responsibilities of their 
 consequence, or wrongly claiming the support 
 of others. 
 
 So in writing these pages I only claim them 
 as the result of a personal experience; and 
 
x Preface. 
 
 wish it to be distinctly understood, especially 
 as regards the controversial matters dealt with, 
 that the opinions promulgated are those of an 
 individual only, and are in no way binding 
 upon the members of the Arts Society at 
 large, or even on those who formed the delight 
 ful party to "The World s Fair" at Chicago 
 in 1893. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, PARIS, 
 
 Sept. 2nd, 1893. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 OUTWARD BOUND . / 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 NEW YORK .... -36 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 WASHINGTON - S 2 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 CHICAGO 
 
 77 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 THE WORLD S FAIR 104 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 NIAGARA FALLS ... .156 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 MONTREAL . 185 
 
xii Contents. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 THE HUDSON RIVER 222 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 NEW YORK AGAIN 244 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 HOMEWARD 1 JO UN I) 27O 
 
ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 Wherever you may wander, 
 
 Whatever you may see, 
 The scenes are all the brighter 
 
 With pleasant company. 
 
 QOMETHING closely akin to disappoint- 
 O ment seemed to be the ruling passion as 
 we alighted from the train, stood upon the deck 
 of the steamship Berlin, of the American Line, 
 and left Southampton dock at noon on Saturday, 
 July 22nd, 1893. 
 
 The vessel was not the ideal floating palace 
 we had conceived most transatlantic liners to 
 be ; and so, like other airy castles, ours had to 
 crumble to pieces, and the reality take its place. 
 
 However, we found the Berlin a very good 
 sea-boat ; and, though a little behind the times 
 as regards size and appointments, we gradually 
 
2 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 recovered from our momentary dislike to the 
 ship. For this, like the cloudy beginning of 
 much true love, actually ended in a case of 
 real affection ; for before we left the vessel we 
 quite entertained a sincere regard, not only for 
 the ship, but for the captain, officers, and crew. 
 
 The day was beautifully fine, and the pas 
 sengers appeared in the best of spirits ; but 
 when we were nearing the Needles a very 
 distressing occurrence took place. One of the 
 sailors, in making good the awnings, lost his 
 balance and fell overboard, and, as the ship 
 was going well-nigh full speed, it was some 
 time before he could be rescued. The pas 
 sengers were at luncheon when the accident 
 happened, and many were unaware until after 
 wards why the engines ceased and the ship stayed. 
 
 When the poor fellow was brought from the 
 boat it seemed a hopeless case ; and, although 
 every effort was made to revive him, all was 
 unavailing, and he unfortunately succumbed. 
 
 Rescued ! Alas ! soon, soon to be interred 
 Within the bosom of the ocean deep ; 
 
 Until the mighty voice from heaven is heard, 
 Arousing and awakening all from sleep : 
 
 Those o er whose grave graze not the lowing herd, 
 And also those where weeping willows weep. 
 
Outward Bound. 3 
 
 We sailed along the shores of Old England, 
 trying to recognise the places with which we 
 were familiar. 
 
 Thus the afternoon passed away pleasantly 
 and the evening shadows began to fall ; and 
 even in the moonlight we looked for the last 
 glimpse of land, knowing that on the morrow 
 we should be ploughing the waters of the great 
 deep, with our native shores far out of sight. 
 
 Farewell, dear Fatherland ! We love thee well, 
 And hope ere long to see again thy face. 
 
 On thee, fair island, we do love to dwell, 
 Although to other lands our way we trace. 
 
 On Sunday morning we had to experience 
 the majesty of the sea, and those susceptible to 
 its influence were, in duty bound, to make the 
 usual obeisance ; for the sea, at any rate, is no 
 respecter of persons. 
 
 The high and low are treated much the same, 
 For rolling billows don t respect a name, 
 
 Or any state. 
 
 The rich and mighty often are made low, 
 The poor and humble also have to know 
 
 The same, same fate. 
 
 There was one young lady who lightly stepped 
 the deck amidst a wilderness of fears, and when 
 some of her superiors were in a woeful plight. 
 
4 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 Can I guess her age ? Well, say twelve 
 summers. She was both bright and happy, 
 and confided to me a secret, which I will re 
 tell to you, dear reader, whoever you may be 
 of course, in strict confidence. 
 
 "The first time I crossed the ocean," said 
 this sprightly damsel, " I was promised five 
 pounds if I wouldn t be ill." 
 
 "Were you ill?" 
 
 "Not I! Do you think I should be ill 
 when I could gain five pounds for not being ? " 
 
 " Will you get five pounds this time ? " 
 
 " No ! they didn t promise me ; but I 
 shouldn t be ill if I could get five pounds." 
 
 " Did you put the five pounds in the 
 bank ? " 
 
 " No I spent it." 
 
 1 wonder if there is any truth in the sugges 
 tion that sea-sickness can be prevented by the 
 power of one s own will ! This young lady s 
 reasoning seems to give a sort of affirmative 
 answer to the problem. 
 
 Well, though the five pounds was not the 
 attraction on this journey, I heard of a lot of 
 presents, one of which had to follow in the 
 shape of a London costermonger s donkey and 
 cart of first-class quality. 
 
Outward Bound. 5 
 
 The father and mother of this fair enchantress 
 kindly invited us to their house; but, as time 
 prohibited the acceptation of the privilege, I 
 must imagine the coster s cart and all the 
 wonderful surroundings of this young lady s 
 home, and must content myself at present by 
 inserting here the heart s silent whisperings : 
 
 I shall picture you when we 
 
 Are many leagues apart, 
 And with my long-range glass shall see 
 
 The costermonger s cart. 
 I shall see your face all glowing 
 
 With pleasure and delight ; 
 I shall see the donkey going, 
 
 And hope he won t take fright : 
 So hold the reins more tightly, 
 
 And only crack the whip, 
 For coster s d. s go sprightly, 
 
 And o er the ground will skip. 
 So I wish in golden measure, 
 
 From right within my heart, 
 You will have days of pleasure 
 
 With the costermonger s cart. 
 
 Each day worked wonders in the countenances 
 of the passengers, and this recognised barometer 
 of the feelings seemed to speak pretty correctly \ 
 for I afterwards saw a lady s diary, and these 
 few items of information were about the 
 indications of the facial readings, which, though 
 
6 Across t/ie Atlantic. 
 
 perhaps quite true, I think some wag had 
 inserted : 
 
 2nd day. " Utterly miserable." 
 yd day. "Longed to die." 
 4// day. " I wished to live." 
 ythday "Jolly." 
 6th day. " Awfully happy. 
 
 On board were sold souvenirs of the voyage, 
 with a good photograph of the captain as a 
 frontispiece ; and among 
 
 "SOME DON TS FOR PASSENGERS" 
 
 I noticed the following : 
 
 " Don t be too dignified or exclusive : salt water, like 
 death, is no respecter of persons." 
 
 Then we have 
 
 " NEVER r 
 (For those abottt to sail). 
 
 with this " never " among a multitude of 
 others 
 
 * Never give way to sea-sickness : fight it down ; ex 
 ercise will-power, and keep on the fight, even if it takes 
 all the voyage. " 
 
 No doubt very good advice, and probably 
 some would succeed ; but some did not. 
 However, when the sea became calmer and 
 
Outward Bound. 7 
 
 the landspeople more accustomed to its motion, 
 the jubilation was great, and perhaps the hap 
 piness assumed the superlative order through 
 the pain and inconvenience previously experi 
 enced. 
 
 For in this life of ups and downs, 
 
 Of pleasure, pains, and woe, 
 Smiles, pleasantries, and cruel frowns, 
 
 We shall find as we go, 
 Amidst the world s oft-varied scene, 
 
 The most supremely blest 
 Are those who have much trouble seen, 
 
 And so can value rest. 
 
 So on the fourth or fifth day we had sun 
 shine and brightness reigning in a dual sense, 
 without an apparent cloud to mar the brilliancy 
 of the scene ; for the business of life seemed, 
 for the time being, the pursuit of enjoyment. 
 
 The betting-men on board went in for what 
 they term pools, and the principal object dealt 
 with was the mileage of each day s running ; 
 but there were some rather strange things later 
 on for instance, the number of the pilot boat, 
 what kind of a hat he would wear, and which 
 leg he would throw first over the rail on gaining 
 the ship. The pools, I understood, were not 
 very large, but there was a kind of auction 
 
8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 where the numbers were sold and resold which 
 caused considerable competition. 
 
 " Have you heard about Mr. B ? " said 
 
 some one to me in a tone of excitement. 
 " Well, he bought some numbers for \ is., 
 sold them for 2 los. ; bought another for 
 2s. 6d. y which he kept, and this proved the 
 winning number, and he has won the pool, 
 between ^5 and ;6." 
 
 The leader of this section of pleasure-seekers 
 seemed to get the worst of it, and he lost rather 
 heavily ; but at the last he bid high for the 
 tickets, secured the winning number and rather 
 a heavy pool. But, whether winning or losing, 
 it is perhaps, after all, the wisest to 
 
 Stake nothing, but by honest toil 
 
 Make lawful gain, not bet ; 
 For though you sweep the glittering spoil, 
 
 Think of the vain regret 
 The loser has, who perhaps may stake 
 
 His all to gain the prize, 
 And of the dirge the heart will make 
 
 O er his last sacrifice. 
 
 Amusements, such as shuffle-board, deck 
 quoits, etc., suited the tastes of others ; for 
 there seemed no lack of things to interest 
 and amuse. 
 
Outward Bound. 9 
 
 Then the ladies were busy collecting auto 
 graphs; for, be it known, the ship s souvenir 
 had a special place assigned for these. 
 
 Then there were elaborate albums produced, 
 containing sketches, poetry, etc. ; so the gentle 
 men appealed to had to use the pencil and 
 the pen, in response to the bewitching smile 
 and the gentle request. 
 
 Some of these books were of a highly artistic 
 character, and the verses, drawings, whimsical 
 and otherwise, must have formed an important 
 treasure to the various owners, who probably 
 had been years in collecting such a miscellaneous 
 assortment of friendly remembrances. 
 
 Personally I escaped very lightly ; for just 
 this one little poem constituted the whole of 
 my contributions to these storehouses of sou 
 venirs : 
 
 TO YOU. 
 
 ON BOARD THE s.s. Berlin, MID-OCEAN, 
 WEDNESDAY, JULY 26x11, 1893. 
 
 For your much-loved book of scraps, and odds, and ends, 
 
 At your request, I place these lines among your special friends. 
 
 Good lady, though I know you not, 
 
 Yet I can wish you well, 
 And memory s room can find a spot 
 
 Wherein your face may dwell ; 
 
io Across the Atlantic. 
 
 For its sweet brightness may combine 
 
 With others hanging there 
 To cheer the heart with bright sunshine, 
 
 And drive away despair. 
 For when the days of darkness near. 
 
 I ll step in memory s room, 
 And its fair hangings will soon cheer ; 
 
 And then, instead of gloom, 
 I shall find pictures of delight 
 
 Around on every hand, 
 And I shall dwell with faces bright 
 
 In real Fairyland. 
 Thus will past brightness light my way, 
 
 Its cheering work renew, 
 And mark with special glow the day 
 
 When I did meet with you ; 
 And though your picture bears no name, 
 
 Or date when I did win, 
 I ll grave upon its golden frame 
 
 The good steamship Berlin. 
 
 Then there were all those delightful conver 
 sations. One group of ladies were discussing 
 the character of an English lady, the result of 
 a graphological inquiry. 
 
 Of course there are certain sceptics who 
 do not believe in any of those semi-scientific 
 means of character interpretation, such as palm 
 istry, graphology, physiognomy, cheirognomy, or 
 phrenology. 
 
 Well, I have only had my character truly 
 told once, and that was by a lady, who has 
 
Outward Bound. 1 1 
 
 earned a considerable sum, for charitable pur 
 poses, by deciphering character from a specimen 
 of handwriting. So this leads me to suppose 
 that there may be more reason to believe in 
 this particular method than in some of the 
 others, although I must admit having seen 
 some characters so interpreted that were very 
 incorrect. 
 
 I was favoured with a copy of the character 
 under consideration, and from observation I 
 should think it was exceptionally true to nature. 
 I have permission to print it, and do so, for a 
 reason to be afterwards mentioned : 
 
 " You are frank and genial in manner, with 
 much liveliness of fancy, and a hopeful, sanguine 
 spirit. You are endowed with quick perception. 
 You decide rapidly and clearly, and can easily 
 throw yourself into other people s thoughts and 
 ways. You have rather a strong will of your 
 own, and are not too easily influenced by others, 
 though always tolerant of well-grounded contra 
 diction. There is some impulsiveness in you, 
 being apt to be too hurried in the adoption of 
 schemes and causes, and you have a small share 
 of pride. When you have once embarked in 
 any matter you will not detract. You are rather 
 unconventional in some of your tastes, and do 
 
12 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 not wish to be precisely like the rest of the 
 world. You can be amusing in your conversa 
 tion, and have a quick sense of humour. You 
 have good taste, and are particular about your 
 surroundings." 
 
 Now, this is, I consider, a good all-round 
 character, that no one need be ashamed of, 
 and I think it was unanimously declared to 
 be an exact one of the lady, who resides 
 at one of " the stately halls of England," with 
 a fine Norman archway, and beautiful grounds 
 surrounding. 
 
 A very correct gentleman on board confided 
 to me his opinion that some of the ladies were 
 not quite conducting themselves in a fit and 
 proper manner. 
 
 He singled out one as a sample, and said, 
 " I should not like to think my wife was acting 
 so ; neither should I like my wife to imagine 
 I was acting like the gentleman." 
 
 Well, his insinuations were entirely without 
 foundation; and I tried to explain to him that 
 the American ladies were of a free and inde 
 pendent nature, and unlike, in their ways, our 
 more sedate countrywomen. 
 
 I think the lady mentioned was a charming 
 person; so here was a decided difference of 
 
Outward Bound. 13 
 
 opinion, probably through one taking in account 
 the differences of the worlds in which people 
 live. 
 
 However, the American ladies are born and 
 reared under conditions which seem to make 
 them well able to take care of themselves ; and 
 the reason I have printed the English lady s 
 character is just to show that the unconvention- 
 ality they display may be also found among 
 some of the ladies of our own land. 
 
 Certainly I shall not blame any of our 
 passengers for wrong conduct, not even 
 my proper friend, whom I sincerely respect } 
 for perhaps it would be a hard task to find 
 a more agreeable lot of people than the 
 ladies and gentlemen, the passengers on the 
 s.s. Berlin. 
 
 It is marvellous what a wrong judgment you 
 form of people sometimes, not only as regards 
 their disposition, but as to their relationship. 
 Just to give an example as to the erroneous 
 opinions people may form, I am always taken 
 for a newly married man. Why, I cannot 
 quite make out ; but, when people find the 
 contrary is the case, they seem to infer, by 
 their words and manner, that I have been 
 playing the part of a deceiver. 
 
14 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 One lady accosted me, and in rather sarcastic 
 tones said : 
 
 " It is not often we see a man so awfully 
 attentive to his sister." 
 
 Well, I am not aware that the attention was 
 of so demonstrative a nature as to attract 
 notice ; although I do think that when a man 
 is travelling with a lady, whether she is his 
 mother, sister, or wife, she should have the 
 lion s share of his thoughts and care. But from 
 what I can gather, from the sundry remarks 
 made when journeying in many lands, some 
 do not think with me. However, if people 
 determine in their minds that certain conclusions 
 are correct, and they come and talk to you 
 about your wife, you hardly ought to be blamed 
 for the wrong conceptions of others ; and you 
 certainly cannot change your relationship even 
 to oblige them. 
 
 Well, one must not grumble ; but there 
 generally follows such a lot of questioning, 
 and the exhibition of either feigned or real 
 astonishment, accompanied by an inferred 
 accusation that you are guilty of some crime 
 because you have never married, as if there 
 were existing no necessity for a few "awful 
 examples " as a warning to others. 
 
Outward Bound. 15 
 
 One American merchant, who had previously 
 shown himself very friendly disposed, when he, 
 like the others, discovered his mistake, addressed 
 me after this fashion : " Well, I m surprised that 
 an elegant man like you has never found a 
 nice young lady." 
 
 Well, there is a question about the elegance, 
 as it is only a matter of opinion ; and the lady, 
 the perfection of all that is good, he promised 
 to find me in that city called Philadelphia, 
 might not have been of his way of thinking, 
 had I accepted his very pressing invitation to 
 journey thither. 
 
 Even on the concert programme, produced rive 
 or six days after starting, we were announced 
 as " Mr. R. A. and Mrs. Naylor," and I had to 
 endure another onslaught ; although a second 
 edition of the programme corrected the mistake, 
 and we were placed thereon in our proper 
 relationship, although the correction made us 
 the subject of the customary apologetical ex 
 planations. 
 
 But I might as well make the confession 
 that I am not a lady s man, though I greatly 
 admired the gentlemen we had with us ; for 
 many of them could act the part of the beau- 
 ideal to perfection. 
 
1 6 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 The lady whose seat was on my left in the 
 saloon was travelling alone, under the charge 
 of the captain, and when she told me this 
 I felt I ought to be as politely attentive as 
 possible ; but I made such a bad job of it, 
 that I eased my conscience by introducing to 
 her two fine English gentlemen I knew to be 
 the very soul of honour, and they certainly 
 made the journey across the Atlantic much 
 more pleasurable for this lady than it would 
 have been without the innumerable kindnesses 
 these champions of the Fair were good enough 
 to show. 
 
 One gentleman whose acquaintance I formed 
 could tell amusing stories by the dozen, and I 
 saw him keep one lady in a state of interested 
 excitement for two or three hours. 
 
 I afterwards complimented him upon his 
 achievement, for I could not understand how 
 he managed it. This must, however, be a 
 natural gift, or one acquired by practice and 
 study ; for 1 only ventured for one short stroll 
 with a lady, other than my own, and this 
 fascinating personage must have considered me 
 a little out of date. The circumstances under 
 which this short walking tour was taken were 
 quite of an accidental character. " The two 
 
Outward Bound. 17 
 
 sisters " were talking to a gentleman I knew, 
 who started off with one, so I had to follow suit 
 with the other ; but while he could evidently 
 find all sorts of nice things to say, to the delight 
 of his partner, I could hardly breathe out a few 
 sentences to mine, and she, no doubt, was very 
 glad when we joined a group, and my task was 
 finished. 
 
 I was once travelling in a distant land, when 
 an English lady of title said to me one of the 
 sweetest things woman can say to man, and 
 which, perhaps, no lady will ever say to me 
 again. But instead of responding with some 
 thing like a corresponding phrase, I could 
 scarcely speak ; so I write the foregoing as a 
 sort of an apology to the good ladies on board 
 the Berlin, to assure them, one and all, that 
 though I could not entertain them with the 
 fluency of others, my heart may beat as truly, 
 and they must kindly excuse my natural im 
 perfections. 
 
 I have been thinking since that perhaps the 
 lady who graciously presented me with the 
 dilapidated umbrella, might be giving an object- 
 lesson to demonstrate my own infirmities. 
 
 This beautiful red silk umbrella became 
 tattered and torn by a gust of wind, and it was 
 
 2 
 
1 8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 then handed to me. Its appearance caused 
 considerable amusement, and many of its frag 
 ments were afterwards seen in the ladies hats 
 and gentlemen s buttonholes. One gentleman 
 begged rather a large piece of the silk, which 
 he intended to take home for his little girl to 
 make a doll s dress with ; but in the meantime 
 he wore it as a scarf. 
 
 This gave rise to a good joke made by one 
 of our clerical friends or, perhaps, I ought to 
 call it a conundrum : 
 
 "Why is Mr. So-and-so s bright red silk scarf like the 
 steamship Berlin ? " 
 
 " Because it is borne on the bosom of a great swell." 
 
 Bravo ! 
 
 Good-bye, ladies ! I now make my bow, and 
 pass to other subjects. 
 
 One very thoughtful act was performed by 
 a member of our party, Mr. C. C. Paine, who 
 kindly undertook the collection of willingly 
 given offerings for the benefit of the little 
 orphan child whose father was the poor seaman 
 buried at sea. 
 
 This resulted in raising about 22, which 
 sum was further increased by a generous con 
 tribution from a lady who had a heart to pity 
 and sympathise. 
 
Outward Bound. 19 
 
 Then, on the Friday evening, we had a 
 grand concert, principally arranged by that 
 distinguished professional singer and composer 
 Mr. Martyn Van Lennep, and this proved to be 
 n great success. 
 
 The bill announcing this concert was quite 
 an artistic curiosity, and the clever draughtsman s 
 handiwork was greatly admired, especially the 
 firstrate portrait of a gentleman of our party, 
 whose conduct throughout the journey was 
 conspicuous for its kindness and amiability, 
 as every leading freemason s ought to be. 
 
 Mr. C. C. Paine occupied the presidential 
 chair on the occasion, and those who have the 
 pleasure of knowing this gentleman will not 
 be surprised to hear that his duties were 
 performed in such an admirable style as to 
 gain the most appreciative encomiums, which 
 the audience duly seconded by applause when 
 a vote of thanks to him was accorded. 
 
 The concert was of a miscellaneous character, 
 as the programme overleaf will show. 
 
 One amusing item in the proceedings was 
 the recitation, so called, by Mr. Pomeroy 
 Dickinson, who, I believe, was the artistic 
 gentleman who made such a good job of the 
 Playbill. 
 
Held on board, July z8th. 1893, by kind permission of Captain Watkins, 
 
 FOR THE BENEFIT OF A CHARITY TO BE DECIDED UPON DURING 
 THE CONCERT BY GENERAL VOTE. 
 
 Chair to be taken at 8 p.m., by C. C. Paine, Esq. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 PIANO DUET " Caliph of Bagdad" \ Miss Bellinger. 
 
 ( Miss Monrant. 
 SOXG . . . " The Village Blacksmith " . Mr. Morris. 
 
 SOXG "The Pilot" Mr. R. A. &* Miss Nay lor. 
 
 SOXG . . . " Sunshine and Rain " Miss Nellie Mourant. 
 
 RECITATION .... Selected . Mr. Pomeroy Dickinson. 
 DUET .... "Two Gay Owls Mr.&Mrs.M. Van Lennep. 
 
 (a. " Charmina Marguerita " ) .... 
 
 \Z>. "I Love, and the World is Mine"/ 
 
 SONGS 
 
 SONG WITH BANJO . " Swanee Ribber " 
 RECITATION . . " The Life- Boat 
 
 PART II. 
 
 SONG .... " The Longshoreman " . 
 FLUTE SOLO Selected . . 
 
 Miss D. Harmer. 
 Mr. H. 1. Bagge. 
 
 Mr. C. Keyser. 
 Mr. Kirwin. 
 . Mr. W. Briggs. 
 Miss Ella Winter. 
 Mrs. Van Lennep. 
 Mr. George Alison. 
 
 | Miss M. Hall. 
 
 aid?") Mr.&Mrs.M. 
 ire.} j Van Lennep. 
 
 Mr. Willie Scott. 
 
 SONG . . . . " The Owls and the Mice " 
 RECITATION . . . " The Courtin " . 
 SPANISH BOLERO . "In Seville s Groves " . 
 S0NG . . . " Reiected 
 
 SONGS . 
 DUET 
 COMIC SONGS 
 
 fa. " My Love is an Arbutus 
 * \b. " Where the Bee Sucks " 
 Where are you going, my pretty m 
 !. {Illustrating the woman of thefut 
 (a. " Eight Hours a Day " ) 
 1 b. " Four Gay Bachelors " J 
 
 GOD SAVE THE QUEEX. 
 
 Accompanists: The MISSES BERBLINGER, 
 WINTER. 
 
 STAR-SPANGLED BANNER. 
 MOURANT, and ELLA 
 
 GONDOLAS AT 10 P.M. 
 
Outward Bound. 21 
 
 Mr. Dickinson s recitation, which was more of 
 the character of a stump speech, greatly amused 
 the people, and met with a well-deserved encore. 
 
 What made a portion of this speech all the 
 more amusing was the fact that Mr. Dickinson 
 is a lawyer; and I begged him afterwards to 
 write me that portion of his speech especially 
 dealing with this much-abused part of the 
 community. I have known some shark-like 
 lawyers, but it has also been my privilege 
 to know others who have been good advisers 
 without displaying the avaricious quality. 
 
 But we will give the sketch, and again thank 
 the eminent lawyer of Rochester city for his 
 kindness in writing it for insertion here : 
 
 "There is a lawyer living in my neighbourhood, a 
 rather timid man, except in the matter of charges, etc., 
 in which respect he has the name of being unusually 
 avaricious. 
 
 " His wife awoke him the other night out of a sound 
 sleep, with the startling information that there was a 
 burglar in the house. He was loth to get up, but she 
 gently but firmly kicked him out of bed; and creeping 
 downstairs he ran plump into the burglar. They clinched 
 and rolled over and over, breaking the furniture and 
 bric-a-brac, etc. ; but finally the burglar succeeded, after 
 a desperate effort, in making his escape from the lawyer s 
 clutches without losing anything. 
 
 " The same lawyer started out with me to cross the 
 
22 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 ocean on his summer vacation. He stood leaning on 
 the rail, waving a last fond adieu to his friends (?) 
 on shore, and, suddenly slipping, he fell overboard. 
 Immediately there was a great consternation among the 
 passengers and a rush was made to his assistance. To 
 add terror to the scene the fin of a large man-eating 
 shark was seen cutting the water, swiftly approaching 
 the struggling lawyer. Every one gave him up for lost 
 and closed their eyes with horror ; but what was their 
 joy and surprise, when, as the shark was just opening 
 his ponderous jaws to swallow him, the people saw a 
 look of recognition flash in the shark s eye, and he 
 smiled, and swam away, and the lawyer was saved." 
 
 The laughable sketch of a play Mr. Dickinson 
 gave in responding to the encore was very well 
 performed, and the various actors wonderfully 
 imitated. 
 
 The fact is, the concert was A i throughout, 
 and gave great satisfaction both to the audience 
 and its originators. 
 
 It is unnecessary to add that the various items 
 were loudly applauded, most of them being 
 rapturously encored, and a hearty vote of thanks 
 followed, especially to Mr. and Mrs. Van 
 Lennep, whose kindness and ability were fully 
 ppreciated and recognised by the intelligent 
 and aristocratic audience assembled. 
 
 When the vote was taken as to the dis 
 tribution of the .collection (over 6), it was 
 
Outward Bound. 23 
 
 almost unanimous for "the seaman s orphan," 
 and to this was added over ^"14, the result 
 of the kindly help willingly rendered by the 
 four handsome young ladies, who sold mark 
 the term the programmes. 
 
 The captain was entrusted with the fund 
 raised, and its distribution left entirely to his 
 discretion ; and certainly it could not have 
 been left in better hands, for I have never 
 come across any man who bore such an exalted 
 character, and who was held in such high 
 esteem, not only by his crew, from the cabin 
 boy upwards, but by every one who had come 
 to know him. 
 
 It was no mere matter of sentiment, for his 
 actions had proved him to be what with one 
 voice he is declared 
 
 A noble tribute to gain : would that more of 
 us were entitled to it ! So Captain Frederick 
 Watkins, commodore of the fleet, will hold 
 in my recollection a very unique position, as 
 being about the only man I have heard all 
 to praise and none to blame. 
 
 So the poor little orphan child will not 
 be friendless, though there is no father s care 
 
24 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 or mother s love to make life bright and 
 beautiful. 
 
 The best of earthly friends are gone, dear child, 
 And you are left in this sad, dreary wild 
 
 Almost alone ; 
 
 But do not fear, for there is One above, 
 Whose heart for those is full of love 
 
 Bereft of home. 
 
 No monument of love can e er by thee 
 Be planted o er thy father s grave, for he 
 
 Is now asleep 
 
 Beneath those rolling, crested billows blue, 
 With hardy men, from many a crew, 
 
 In slumbers deep. 
 
 But if thou livest as thy heavenly Guide 
 And Father should dictate, and dost not slide 
 
 From virtue s ways, 
 
 Thy life will be the monument to prove, 
 A child s fond love, and will induce and move 
 
 Angels to praise. 
 
 Thus may the life cut short in manhood s prime 
 Right onward through the flowing years of time, 
 
 In one way live ; 
 
 For through thy life, his life may onward flow, 
 With vast increasing force as ages go, 
 
 And fragrance give. 
 
 So, little child, look upward every day, 
 And strive to find and tread the better way, 
 
 And seek the truth ; 
 
 For none but this can make thee know the right, 
 So pray for heavenly grace, and strength, and light, 
 
 To guide thy youth. 
 
Outward Bound. 25 
 
 Then may thy parents hover near, though gone, 
 And in their spirit form may look upon, 
 
 With peaceful pride, 
 The perfect monument thy life will rear ; 
 So choose the heavenly way, and do not fear, 
 
 But there abide. 
 
 On the Saturday evening we had a smoking 
 concert on deck. I suppose the name suggests 
 that any smoker could indulge himself in this 
 particular if so inclined. 
 
 The performers were all of the sterner sex, 
 so much of the grace and beauty of the previous 
 evening s programme was not there, although the 
 ladies in good numbers braved the dangers of 
 the chilly night, and honoured the performance 
 by their presence. 
 
 The concert was arranged under the able 
 management and presidency of Mr. Walter 
 Stanton of New York, New Jersey, and London ; 
 and one of the best things of the whole evening 
 was the duet he and Mr. Van Lennep gave, 
 and which received, what it richly deserved, 
 the hearty plaudits of a delighted company. 
 
 Our second Sunday on board proved far more 
 like a Sunday than our first, for the bell was 
 tolled, and those so inclined were able to attend 
 Divine service in the saloon, which privilege 1 
 
26 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 it was gratifying to notice, many availed them 
 selves of. 
 
 This service was taken by the Rev. W. Emory 
 Henkell, of New York, and the Rev. Father 
 Welling, of Philadelphia a clergyman, I be 
 lieve, of the Church of England, who assumes 
 the name of " Father," either from the brother 
 hood to which he belongs, or the institution for 
 coloured children, with which he is so honour 
 ably connected. 
 
 These gentlemen performed their duties very 
 satisfactorily ; but some of the passengers 
 thought it a little strange that we had no 
 sermon from one of the many clericals who 
 were amongst their number. 
 
 The anthem "I waited for the Lord," 
 arranged as a duet by Mr. Van Lennep, was 
 very finely rendered by this gentleman and his 
 wife, accompanied by Miss Ella Winter, who 
 is a descendant of the celebrated Admiral Van 
 Winter ; Mendelssohn s " Hymn of Praise," was 
 also given with great refinement, and in the 
 general hymns the congregation heartily joined. 
 
 I usually write a hymn or sacred song 
 each Sunday when at home, so on the morning 
 and evening of this day I fulfilled the usual 
 task, and as a request was made to allow others 
 
Outward Bound. 27 
 
 to see these, and which was not complied with, 
 I insert them in these pages that the expressed 
 
 desire may be gratified. 
 
 
 
 HEAVEN S PATHWAY. 
 
 No shadows cast their misty spell 
 Around the pathway to that land 
 Where all the good hereafter dwell, 
 Obeying love s supreme command. 
 
 But, ah ! alas ! how often man 
 Turns from that pathway so serene ; 
 For when he sins he finds a span 
 Of doubt and mist will intervene. 
 
 He leaves the better road, so he 
 Must pay the penalty of wrong ; 
 Heaven s sunshine he will fail to see, 
 And faith will hush her trustful song. 
 
 But when forsaken is the crime, 
 And true repentance hates the sin, 
 The sun again begins to shine 
 And eyes are then no longer dim. 
 
 Alas I our nature goes astray, 
 And e en the best go far from God, 
 And do not always tread the way 
 Jesus, our great Example, trod. 
 
 But yet, though often we may wend 
 Our way, through mists which will arise, 
 We hope, through mercy, at the end, 
 To live beneath Heaven s fairer skies. 
 
28 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 LIFE S OCEAN. 
 
 When crossing o er life s stormy sea, 
 We should think of Heaven s peaceful shore, 
 And all the friends we there shall see, 
 We know have landed there before. 
 
 The same great hardships they endured, 
 And patiently through cloud and storm 
 And darkness, by faith were assured 
 That they would surely see the morn. 
 
 The sparkling beauties they enjoy, 
 The glories which they now behold, 
 The brighter powers they now employ, 
 By mortals never can be told. 
 
 How they must long to see us there ! 
 Oh ! what a welcome they will give, 
 Then we shall rest for ever where 
 The friends of Jesus always live. 
 
 What is life s ocean, with its fears, 
 Its many storms, and clouds and strife ! 
 When every Christian knows One steers 
 The faithful to Eternal Life ! 
 
 Make for this shore of life and peace ! 
 Seek for the faith to trust and pray ! 
 Think of the joys which cannot cease ! 
 Look for the never-ending day. 
 
 Well, the sailing o er " Life s Ocean " is very 
 much like the uncertain seas, o er which we 
 often travel to see other lands whither our desires 
 take us. 
 
Outzuard Bound. 29 
 
 Life on the ocean has its brightness as well 
 as its uncertainties and dangers; but in these 
 days, when the latter are greatly minimised 
 and the former increased, this kind of travelling 
 is not so bad ; for with a pleasant company the 
 life becomes really enjoyable, after you have 
 passed the stage of its unpleasant sensations. 
 
 One thing that created much pleasure to 
 many was the large number of photographs to 
 be looked at. Portraits of wives, children, 
 and photographs of many fine homes left be 
 hind. Some of our friends had as fine a selec 
 tion of "loved ones at home" as you could 
 wish to see. One of our American passengers 
 showed to me his wife s portrait and those of 
 his two children. I was very much struck 
 with the warmth of affection this gentleman 
 displayed towards those he was returning to. 
 From his pocket-book he disclosed two faded 
 flowers. These he had received from his little 
 son and daughter on leaving, and had carried 
 them with him ever since. Some would see 
 nothing in these withered, tiny flowers, but yet 
 others, along with the angels, would behold 
 
 A wealth of human love, that Heaven delights to see. 
 Even the ship s barber had his selection of 
 
30 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 bright faces, to remind him of those he most 
 cared for. And while others might describe 
 such devotion as effeminate sentimentality, I 
 would rather join those who are prepared to 
 sing- 
 May sweet affection s power still sway, 
 The hearts on land and sea. 
 
 Then we had many specialists on board- 
 men prominently identified with some branch 
 of learning or science. 
 
 We had also representatives of numerous 
 institutions, some of whom were journeying to 
 one or other of the many congresses to be held 
 at the World s Fair. 
 
 The British Architects were represented by a 
 gentleman from Devonshire ; and, as far as I 
 could understand, the principal object of the 
 convention at Chicago was to discuss the 
 establishment of some universal institution, 
 whose members should have been especially 
 trained for this important profession something 
 on the plan of some Trade Unions which 
 exclude all but those having served a proper 
 apprenticeship. 
 
 The Peace Society was well to the front ; and 
 after the conclusion of the Behring Sea arbi- 
 
Outward Bound. 31 
 
 tration this useful congress, I understand, sent 
 a telegram to Her Most Gracious Majesty 
 Queen Victoria rejoicing over this achievement 
 without bloodshed. 
 
 The object of this Society is, no doubt, in 
 keeping with the higher developments of 
 Christianity, and I had a long talk with its 
 able secretary on the subject ; but the difficulty 
 to be subdued is the question, How can one 
 nation disarm when so many other nations 
 would only be too ready to take an advantage ? 
 The time may come when " nation shall not 
 rise in war against nation " ; but this can only 
 be when the nations of the earth have learned 
 to love and honour "The Prince of Peace." 
 
 May that day soon arrive ! 
 
 Some of our American passengers were 
 rather displeased with a few opinions expressed 
 by " Baedeker " ; and one which especially gave 
 displeasure was the following, to which habit 
 it was stated English people would make 
 objection : 
 
 " And in many places the habit of spitting 
 on the floor; but the Americans themselves 
 are now keenly alive to these weak points, 
 and are doing their best to remove them." See 
 pp. 30, 31, "Baedeker s United States." 
 
32 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Well, one English lady assured me she sat 
 next to an American gentleman in England, 
 and he was guilty of this habit ; and there may 
 be some truth in the charge, for you see on the 
 ferry boats the request made 
 
 "Oux OF RESPECT TO THE LADIES, ETC." 
 
 However, the complaint could not be sub 
 stantiated as of universal application, for some 
 American gentlemen are quite as good-mannered 
 in this respect, if not more so, than the average 
 Englishman, or even the recognised polite 
 Parisian ; for I saw a gentleman spit on the 
 floor of an omnibus in the Champs Elysees, 
 when a lady opposite pointed with her umbrella 
 to the conspicuous notice posted up. 
 
 The remaining time of the passage passed 
 rapidly and pleasantly, the only drawback being 
 the fogs encountered, and the fog horn being 
 frequently brought in requisition. 
 
 On Sunday " the pilot " boarded the steamer, 
 and he told me their boat had been nearly run 
 down in the fog the night before by a large 
 Portuguese steamer. From what he said they 
 had a hairbreadth escape, through the steamer 
 failing to sound either whistle or horn until 
 in such close proximity to them that escape 
 
Outward Bound. 33 
 
 would have been impossible. The alarm was 
 given, and all hands were ready for a struggle 
 for life in an instant: but they just glided by 
 without a collision. 
 
 These pilots who sail out in companies 
 always run a great risk in foggy weather, and 
 sometimes sail in the track of steamers five 
 hundred miles from port. 
 
 These men, although pretty well remunerated, 
 run in the face of great perils ; and a life 
 crowded with hardships and uncertainty few 
 would care to lead, even though they could 
 secure a large income for so doing. 
 
 On Monday morning we found ourselves 
 in sight of land, and for hours we sailed with 
 the Long Island panorama in full view. 
 
 Then came the usual congratulations, leave- 
 takings, and every one seemed to use the most 
 kindly and affectionate expressions they could 
 find in the whole range of their vocabulary. 
 
 We received great kindness and many hearty 
 farewells ; and one gentleman evidently desired 
 me to settle down in America, and said, " You 
 are just the man we want ! " 
 
 Well, to be promised high remuneration is 
 certainly an inducement ; but the ties in the 
 old country are great although, probably, 
 
 3 
 
34 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 circumstances may admit of a partial compliance 
 with the invitation at some future time, should 
 Providence so decree. 
 
 We pass Liberty s statue, and we sail thank 
 fully and joyfully into New York harbour, and 
 have our first glimpse of the city we entertained 
 such a longing desire to visit. 
 
 To reach the land to which we sail d, 
 The sight of which we gladly hail d, 
 
 In sunshine clear, 
 
 Must make the heart-bells ring with joy, 
 And our best vocal chords employ, 
 
 To raise a cheer. 
 
 Thus, mighty land, we welcome thee, 
 And if thy people are as free 
 
 As others say ; 
 
 We ll give to thee, yes, three times three, 
 Thou land of glorious liberty, 
 
 This joyous day. 
 
 Let thy fair Statue rightly claim. 
 In thee, for ages her fair name, 
 
 Thy joy and pride ; 
 May truth and justice in thee reign, 
 And co-extend with thy domain, 
 
 And e er abide. 
 
 Thus we shall send across the sea, 
 Our hearty wishes oft to thee ; 
 
 For we know well 
 
 That thy best sons come from our own, 
 Who left long since our island home. 
 
 In thee to dwell. 
 
Outward Bound. 35 
 
 Let, then, the bonds of friendship bind 
 Thy people and our own, and find, 
 
 In friendship s tie 
 Firm union of heart and hand, 
 The lesser and the greater land, 
 
 Never to die. 
 
 For brethren of one flesh and blood 
 Should live and love as brethren should, 
 
 Though miles apart ; 
 So let each country s people prove, 
 The noblest impulses can move 
 
 Each honest heart. 
 
CHAPTER II, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 Colossal city ! with another fair one by thy side, 
 
 Standing before like some great bridegroom with his wealthy 
 
 bride, 
 But now joined by a bond like love a bridge which makes 
 
 two one 
 A sight which all the world with rapturous joy may look upon. 
 
 IN the baggage-room we were met by Messrs. 
 Cook & Son s representative, Mr. J. D. 
 MacBurnie ; and, after our belongings had been 
 passed by the Customs, we were conducted to 
 carriages and conveyed to the Central Hotel, 
 Broadway. After luncheon we had a driving 
 excursion to see some of the wonders of the 
 great city, which certainly are more numerous 
 than I shall be able to describe. Our route 
 lay up Broadway, where you see the manifest 
 signs of a prosperous thoroughfare, which 
 emerges in one of fine residences, churches, 
 and cathedrals. Monster hotels also rear their 
 lofty heads on all sides, until we reach the 
 entrance to the beautiful Central Park, the 
 36 
 
New York. 37 
 
 joy of New Yorkers, and a sight to fill the 
 admiring stranger, coming from some parkless 
 English town, or even Continental city, with 
 envious feelings. This park, which is over 
 eight hundred acres in extent, we are told, 
 was once a most uninteresting spot ; but now 
 the marshy ground and rocky slopes are simply 
 the personification of horticultural architecture 
 in its most charming glory. What with walks 
 and drives, choice foliage, rare plants and trees, 
 statuary, lakes, bridges, archways, and other 
 stately belongings, the former wilderness pre 
 sents to the beholder a paradise of joy. 
 Through this fairyland we curved and whirled 
 about, up hill and down, until we gained the road 
 along the Hudson River, and mounted a steep 
 gradient and pulled up before General Grant s 
 tomb. On the rise of the hill one inquisitive 
 policeman could not restrain his natural pro 
 clivity, but trotted along with our carriage, 
 and inquired, " What do you represent ? " 
 
 " The Society of Arts of Great Britain," was 
 my reply ; and he seemed quite satisfied. 
 
 The river from the famous General s tomb 
 is truly magnificent, and the situation has no 
 doubt been chosen on this account; but at 
 present the immediate surroundings are of a 
 
38 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 dreary and desolate character, which no doubt 
 will soon be altered when the proposed 
 elaborate monument is erected over the spot. 
 I have seen somewhere the accepted design 
 for this, and in course of years this barren, 
 uninviting sight will be made in keeping with 
 the park scenery and that flanking the Hudson 
 River below. 
 
 A little farther we descend and pass under 
 one of the many elevated railways, for which 
 American cities are so famous, and whose 
 sharp curves make the amateur beholder wonder 
 more accidents do not occur. Then our string 
 of carriages enters the park again ; and one of 
 our party, of an ornithological turn of mind, 
 is very anxious to know the name of a bird 
 found here in large numbers, about the size 
 of a thrush, with red breast and browny-black 
 body. This they call the American robin, and 
 we were informed that it belonged to the migra 
 tory species. How small our little English robin 
 redbreast would appear ! But this comparison 
 is on a par with almost everything else in this 
 country, for when we come to examine the 
 vast American continent with our own island 
 at home, we can find a reason why even the 
 very birds should be of larger growth. 
 
New York. 39 
 
 Good John Newton said there would be three 
 wonders in heaven : (i) To find many there he 
 never expected to see ; (2) to miss many he 
 did expect to see ; (3) to find himself there. 
 
 In the magnificent palace of Versailles the 
 guide, in describing the fine collection of pic 
 tures, makes a special point of explaining one 
 more especially. It is a fine painting of a 
 former emperor in the act of asking a visitor, 
 probably of low birth, what was the most 
 remarkable thing he saw in the palace the 
 greatest curiosity. "The greatest curiosity is 
 myself," /<?., he was so astonished to find 
 himself amidst such splendour. 
 
 Well, after owning our surprise at finding 
 ourselves viewing this giant city and its en 
 virons, some may want us to divulge to them 
 our impressions as to which were the features 
 which struck us the most. They are many ; 
 but a few shall be enumerated for the satis 
 faction of inquirers, though probably each 
 member of our party might be disposed to give 
 a preferential position to some one in particular. 
 
 The Christian rejoices to see the many evi 
 dences of Christianity, if only those displayed by 
 the numerous costly temples made with hands. 
 
 The civil engineer would probably praise 
 
40 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 the glories of Brooklyn Bridge, and give you 
 innumerable details : tell you of its great length, 
 nearly 6000 feet, something less than 100 feet 
 wide ; has railway tracks, carriage ways, foot 
 paths ; swallowed cargoes of iron, stone, steel, 
 cement, etc., in its construction ; cost about 
 ^3,000,000 is the most gigantic suspension 
 bridge in the world, and employed well, I 
 cannot say how many hundred men some 
 thirteen years to complete. 
 
 The railway-man would give you a graphic 
 account of the overhead and other railways : 
 the way they carry whole trains on the ferry- 
 barges across the water ; the vestibule cars, of 
 which America is very proud ; the difference in 
 engine arrangements to those at home ; and the 
 thousands upon thousands of miles of iron rails 
 having their termini here and across the river. 
 
 The timid man would no doubt inform you 
 of the terrible risk of foot-passengers being 
 blown high in the air through the explosions 
 of boilers, which are placed beneath the foot 
 ways ; or the tremendous danger through the 
 constant rush of cable-cars along a crowded 
 street like Broadway, and which certainly go 
 far swifter than those in our quiet suburban 
 thoroughfares. 
 
New York. 4 1 
 
 The temperance man, especially of the blue 
 ribbon order, would deplore that, although this 
 is a great city for the signs of fraternities, 
 whose buttons or ribbons you see in many 
 coats, and though you also behold other. deco 
 rations of societies or educational institutions, 
 yet the blue ribbon is nowhere to be seen, 
 although this is the first city of the land of its 
 adoption. Then he would also, perhaps, be 
 a little astonished to hear some very curious 
 stories about the great temperance " orators "- 
 the men who could not make a respectable, 
 sensible speech to save their lives ; men who 
 had to pay others to write something for them 
 before sailing to gullible England to come 
 back laden with riches, as the result of their 
 commercial speculation and the less wideawake 
 British teetotallers capacity of being taken in 
 and done for ; while the real temperance man 
 sighs that, in spite of his protestations, a good 
 and holy movement should have been willingly 
 rendered subservient to the demands of those 
 whose greed of gain will permit them to stoop 
 to anything to serve their miserable ends. 
 
 The architect would look in vain for the 
 old shanty-like construction which once stood 
 beside its more pretentious companion, which 
 
42 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 latter in the leading streets is now being 
 rapidly supplanted by something even more 
 imposing ; and his associate the builder would 
 gaze with interested eyes at the many fine 
 buildings now in course of erection ; for New 
 York presents a busier scene in this respect 
 than perhaps any English or Continental city 
 at the present time. 
 
 The man with a good appetite would scan 
 the well-filled hotel menu with great satisfac 
 tion ; and the drinker the full list of wines, 
 with a selection of drinks special to this country 
 which for variety would perhaps stand unique. 
 
 Washington worshippers would perhaps give 
 the palm to the fine arch and square bearing 
 this honoured name. Young men from the 
 country would probably put A i, as a curiosity, 
 seeing scores of coloured waiters at the hotels 
 instead of the white faces they had been ac 
 customed to. 
 
 Well, what a host of things there are, more 
 or less uncommon ! But if pressed for a direct 
 answer as to what struck me the most, I should 
 confess it was seeing well-dressed, shiny-hatted 
 gentlemen in the evening, when retiring, carry 
 ing large white jugs to the passenger lift ; and 
 I was some time gazing with wonder before 
 
New York. 43 
 
 asking what this custom meant. I found these 
 jugs to be full of ice, and I requested one 
 gentleman to say if he was carrying this load 
 to cool his bedroom. No, to drink ! For be 
 it known that American citizens consume, 
 without exaggeration, buckets of ice-water, and 
 think so much of this luxury, or necessity, 
 whichever it may be, that a fund is established 
 by a leading New York journal for the purpose 
 of giving free grants of ice to the poor during 
 the hot weather, just on the principle of our 
 soup-kitchens in the depth of winter. 
 
 Well, there is something for every one to 
 make a note of, for those artistically inclined 
 are not left without subject-matter more than 
 sufficient. The business man may feel his 
 mouth water when seeing how things are 
 managed here ; the man of literary tastes finds 
 scope for research. But, oh my ! the news 
 paper proprietors, editors, and journalists of 
 the old country stand bewildered at the 
 spectacle presented. Our country pressman, 
 seeing the puffs and puns, the sallies, jocular 
 wisdom, and the funny illustrations, the per 
 sonal matters, the new style, go-ahead leaders, 
 the distinctive phraseology, the boundless in 
 vention of specials, etc., etc., may well sink in 
 
44 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 his chair, shade his face with his hands, , and sit 
 in dreamy contemplations ; and, perhaps, rise up 
 exclaiming, " What on earth are we coming to ? " 
 
 Let us at once, then, awaken to the fact that, 
 in many respects, " we re not in it " ; and we are 
 left far behind in the race, although in some few 
 particulars it is quite as well that we should be. 
 
 After seeing the style of newspaper siftings 
 and gushing illuminations, the electrifying para 
 graphs, with flaming headings, I no longer 
 wonder, living under such influences, why 
 " Rosie" could pen that wonderfully conceived 
 and phrased love-letter which I had an oppor 
 tunity of reading a few years ago. I have 
 carried the lady s eye within the case of my 
 watch ever since; and, just think, I actually 
 had left New York far away before remembering 
 that she lived there ! 
 
 But I will relate how the eye came in my 
 possession, as it is connected with a curious 
 coincidence which is well worth recording. 
 One morning I entered an office, and a gentle 
 man seated at the table was drawing a lady s 
 face. This he showed to me; and when he 
 began to tear the picture in pieces, I begged 
 the eye for there was only one, the portrait 
 being a side view. I became immensely in- 
 
New York. 45 
 
 terested in the story respecting this lady in 
 fact, so much so, that my friend allowed me to 
 read a very remarkable letter, dated from the 
 Isle of Man. 
 
 It appears that this lady was accustomed, 
 before going to reside in New York, to visit 
 this Island pretty frequently ; and some years 
 afterwards my friend thought, when on the 
 Island, to go to the house where this lady 
 formerly stayed, to ask if the people had heard 
 anything about her. Just imagine his surprise 
 when, before reaching the house, he met the 
 very lady coming from it ! 
 
 Well, I must not tell too much. Suffice it 
 to say, the lady was so grieved at his departure 
 from the Island, when his stay was completed, 
 that she wrote to tell him so, and stated that 
 her tears were " as salt as the briny waves." 
 
 Wonderful letter, and most marvellous cir 
 cumstances under which to write it ! and, per 
 haps, some day, though now miles apart, they 
 may come together, and the marriage bells ring 
 their happy chimes. What I regret is that I 
 did not bear a verbal message of affection from 
 my friend to cheer the lady s heart in these 
 years of suspense. 
 
 Farewell, Rosie ! If I ever see you it will, 
 
46 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 I hope, be to offer you my sincere congratula 
 tions, that you have obtained, what I think 
 every faithful woman ought to have /.<?., the 
 man she loves. 
 
 For woman, who can weep the tears 
 
 As salt as briny waves, 
 Should be rewarded with success, 
 
 And gain what her heart craves ; 
 That is, if they are genuine tears, 
 
 Which do the heart reveal, 
 Responding to the longing wish 
 
 Its hidden depths may feel. 
 
 But woman may deception show ! 
 
 Her tears be but a sham ! 
 Such is the argument of doubt 
 
 Repeated oft by man. 
 And though excuses there may be 
 
 Why he this fear displays, 
 Yet there are women who won t stoop 
 
 To art s deceptive ways. 
 Though others, sad, alas ! to say, 
 
 Will practise this vile art ; 
 And just pretend the flowing tears 
 
 Are records of the heart. 
 
 Thus man may often seasons spend 
 
 In seeking to define 
 What is the false, what is the true ; 
 
 And then he finds the time 
 Is only lost, for woman s ways 
 
 Are hard to understand : 
 So he gives up the vain attempt, 
 
 And keeps in doubting land. 
 
New York. 47 
 
 But some, if they could well decide 
 
 That genuine is the spring 
 From which the rolling tears do flow. 
 
 They instantly would bring 
 The healing balm, and would present 
 
 Their all with manly grace : 
 To stay the burning tears which mar 
 
 The beauty of the face ; 
 For know, the best of men desire 
 
 The whole love of a heart, 
 And, finding this, they would soon play 
 
 The loyal lover s part. 
 
 So, ladies, love as ladies should, 
 
 And keep this fact in view, 
 For you will find this secret will 
 
 Prove almost more than true ; 
 For many men have talked to me, 
 
 And have not been above 
 Unfolding in the " hermit s " ear 
 
 Their wondrous tales of love. 
 
 Messrs. Cook & Son had made every pro 
 vision for our party, and it was a happy idea 
 not to monopolise all the time by specially 
 arranged details, but to leave the various 
 members to their own resources a little. 
 
 Our first evening in New York was spent 
 just as each one felt inclined; and we were pro 
 vided, before starting on our tour westward, 
 with illuminated souvenirs, and a copy I now 
 append. 
 
4$ Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Disit of tbe Society of arts to amenca an> tbe 
 TKHorld 6 Columbian ^position, 1S93. 
 
 MEMBERS SOUVENIR. 
 
 Under the Arrangements of THOS. COOK & SON, 
 261 & 262, Broadway, New York. 
 
 Chief Office : LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON, ENG. 
 
 LIST OF MEMBERS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 SOCIETY OF ARTS PARTY. 
 
 From Southampton, Saturday, July 22, 93, per s.s. Berlin 
 (5,526 tons). 
 
 Captain, FREDERICK WATKINS. 
 
 Chief Officer, F. M. PASSOW. 
 
 Purser, JOHN A. REED. 
 
 From New York, Wednesday, Aug. 16, 93, per s.s. Paris 
 (10,500 tons). 
 
 Captain, WM. G. HANDLE. 
 
 Chief Officer, JAS. THOMPSON. 
 
 Purser, STUART W. MILLER. 
 
 Thos. Cook & Sou s Special Representatives : 
 MR. F. J. BALLARD. MR. J. D. MAcBURNIE. 
 
 THOS. COOK & SON, 
 
 261 & 262, BROADWAY, NK\V YORK. 
 
 Chief Office, LONDON, ENGLAND. Established i8 4I . 
 
New York. 49 
 
 Jtst xrf Ufjemftcrs* 
 
 Mr. Arthur Barclay London 
 
 Mr. William Briggs ..... Cambridge 
 Mr. Frederick Cleeves .... Rothcrham 
 Mrs. Cleeves . . . . . . Rotherham 
 
 Mr. W. B. Fitch Eltham 
 
 Mr. William Gleed, M.A London 
 
 Mr. A. S. Herschel Slough 
 
 Mr. Charles E. Keyser . . . . . Watford 
 Mr. Thomas Knowles .... Southport 
 
 Mr. T. J. Knowles Southport 
 
 Major L Aker Boscombe 
 
 Mr. H. G. Lloyd London 
 
 Mr. G. Lyon Watford 
 
 Rear- Admiral J. P. Maclear . . . Cranleigh 
 
 Mr. A. B. Mitchell Edgbaston 
 
 Mr. R. A. Naylor Warrington 
 
 Miss Naylor ...... Warrington 
 
 Mr. H. Joseph Paget .... Mansfield 
 
 Mrs. Paget Mansfield 
 
 Mr. Charles Paine London 
 
 Mr. G. H. Paine London 
 
 Mr. Gilbert Purvis London 
 
 Mrs. Purvis London 
 
 Mr. P. E. Rowlands ..... London 
 Mr. P. J. Rowlands ..... London 
 
 Capt. G. Colquhoun Sconce .... Dublin 
 
 Mrs. Sconce Dublin 
 
 Mr. H. A. Stuart Bletchley 
 
 Mr. Rupert Swindells ..... Bowdon 
 
 Mr. J. Terry London 
 
 Mr. Arthur A. West .... Theydon Bois 
 
 Mr. J. A. West Theydon Bois 
 
 Miss Williamson Mansfield 
 
 Mrs. Middlehurst ..... Pandelbury 
 Miss Middlehurst Pandelbury 
 
5O Across the Atlantic. 
 
 SUBJECT TO ALTERATION. 
 
 Saturday, July 22. Leave London, and sail from 
 
 Southampton per s.s. Berlin. 
 Monday, fitly 31. Arrive in New York. 
 Tuesday, August I. Leave New York for Washington, 
 
 the Capital of the United States. 
 
 Wednesday, August 2. Leave Washington for Chicago. 
 Thursday, August 3. Arrive in Chicago. 
 Friday, Augttst 4. "\ 
 
 Saturday, August 5. I , ~. . 
 
 , . f r In Chicago. 
 
 Sunday, August 6. j 
 
 Monday, August 7. J 
 
 Tuesday, August 8. Leave Chicago for Niagara Falls. 
 
 Wednesday, August 9. Arrive at Niagara Falls. 
 
 Thursday, August 10. At Niagara Falls. 
 
 Friday, August n. Leave Niagara Falls for Toronto, 
 
 arriving same day, and leave for Montreal by steamer 
 
 down the St. Lawrence. 
 Saturday, August 12. Arrive in Montreal. 
 Sunday, August 13. Day of rest in Montreal. 
 Monday, August 14. Leave Montreal. Arrive Albany. 
 Tuesday, August 15. Arrive New York. 
 Wednesday, August 1 6. Sail from New York per 
 
 s.s. Paris. 
 
 Xist of Ibotels 
 
 AT WHICH THE PARTY WILL BE ENTERTAINED. 
 
 New York .... Broadway Central Hotel 
 
 Washington Ebbitt House 
 
 Chicago ......... Lexington Hotel 
 
 Niagara Falls ....... Clifton House 
 
 Toronto Queen s Hotel 
 
 Montreal The Windsor 
 
 Albany Delavan House 
 
New York. 51 
 
 These souvenirs were much appreciated by 
 the members; and tourist agents never lose any 
 thing by doing a little over what they stipulate. 
 Mr. F. J. Ballard, our special conductor, we 
 found most gentlemanly and obliging, and our 
 acknowledgments were duly tendered in a most 
 pleasing fashion on our return to this city. 
 Mr. J. D. MacBurnie his able assistant also 
 deserves a note of praise for his kindly atten 
 tions during that portion of the tour we were 
 favoured with his company. Now, if you ask 
 me, in concluding my first notice of New 
 York : " What do you think of it ? " I should 
 reply, 
 
 A dazzling whirl of busy strife, 
 Where dollars rule the sway ; 
 
 A city full of active life, 
 The New York of to-day. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 A city where the autocrat in pleasure may reside, 
 
 With hosts, who need no bidding, to fraternise with 
 
 pride ; 
 A place where would-be senators in all their grandeur 
 
 roam, 
 Although their country s weal demands that some should 
 
 stay at home. 
 
 ON Tuesday morning, August ist, we 
 bade farewell for a season to the great 
 commercial metropolis of the United States, 
 which, along with Brooklyn, will probably possess, 
 when the twentieth century commences, a popu 
 lation greater than the number of days in ten 
 thousand years. 
 
 We took our seats on the huge ferry boat, 
 and some of our party thought they were only 
 seated on the landing stage when we were 
 half-way across the river. 
 
 We were all immensely interested in reading 
 the account of ourselves in one of the New 
 
Washington. 53 
 
 York dailies, which devoted half a column, 
 with the heading 
 
 ; VISITORS FROM ENGLAND." 
 
 " Arrival of a Royal Commission, which will examine the 
 British Section. " 
 
 The Society of Arts was then described, and 
 the names of our party inserted. 
 
 It was stated that our steamer had been 
 delayed by storms, and this accounted for our 
 late arrival ; then the details of an interview 
 with one of the party were graphically described, 
 and before giving our programme for the 
 journey we read the following paragraph : 
 
 " The members are all wealthy, and in a 
 majority of cases are retired merchants and 
 manufacturers, who, in the autumn of their lives, 
 are devoting themselves to the careful study of 
 the industrial and commercial problems of the 
 day." 
 
 Well, I believe some of our party were very 
 wealthy, for we had at least one genuine English 
 millionaire with us ; and no doubt the latter 
 clause of the paragraph is quite correct, for 
 there are problems to solve, the solution of 
 which will undoubtedly require the application 
 of other principles than those advocated by 
 
54 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 schools, by which we may have been blindly 
 led in the past, but whose theories will not 
 stand the test of practical examination, or the 
 light of knowledge gained from and supported 
 by absolute facts. Therefore, in the study of 
 such problems it is necessary to drive away 
 prejudice and preconceived ideas, and face 
 manfully the stern reality ; and if our conclu 
 sions are not received with acclamation, yet if 
 they will stand the test of investigation then 
 additional light will in due course appear and 
 their truthfulness will be fully recognised. 
 
 This suggestive clause will therefore be my 
 excuse for much of the matter inserted in this 
 volume. On reaching the New Jersey side 
 of the river, we were duly placed in a fine 
 vestibuled car, en route for Washington by 
 the " Royal Blue Line " express train, New 
 York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington. 
 Certainly it was express with a vengeance, the 
 speed at some points being rather too express, 
 for 
 
 Though the tossing about on the sea was o er 
 Yet we were well in for a tossing on shore. 
 Decide which is " wussest," oh ! can you decree? 
 For I cannot say that either did suit me. 
 
 In passing from one car to another I got 
 
Washington. 5 5 
 
 rather an ugly knock, and probably others who 
 tried a walking experiment would be similarly 
 treated. 
 
 The first place of importance we reached 
 was Philadelphia, the third largest city in the 
 United States, and possessing a very attractive 
 history, beside being a fine, well-to-do city 
 founded by William Penn, who purchased the 
 site from the Indians. It >is a great business 
 centre, and many of the heavier manufactures 
 are carried on here. Locomotives and ships 
 are sent out in great numbers, and at the 
 present time several large steamers are in 
 course of construction for " the American Line," 
 which, I understand, has to be heavily sub 
 sidised by the Government, conditionally that 
 these steamers were made in the United States ; 
 and I should not be surprised to hear sooner 
 or later that the bounty system will be adopted. 
 Well, these ways of encouraging home industries 
 would simply horrify our Cobdenites, who 
 have persuaded themselves to believe a great 
 deal more than Richard Cobden ever taught, 
 for which he ought not to be held responsible, 
 and which he probably would have strenuously 
 opposed, had he lived to see that the main 
 principle on which he founded his creed had 
 
56 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 not been accepted by those he calculated would 
 in due course see its wisdom. 
 
 This, no doubt, will eventually be well venti 
 lated and discussed, when our working men 
 begin to see Trade Unionism has done all in 
 its power in the direction of increasing wages, 
 and become absolutely useless, if unaided by 
 fiscal arrangements, in compelling British manu 
 facturers to continue purchasing labour at a 
 price which, unfortunately in many cases, means 
 a positive loss. 
 
 I have for several years been investigating 
 the position of one of our industries, and trying 
 to draw a right conclusion from the results of 
 many inquiries ; and I am forced to admit, al 
 though reluctantly, that in this particular trade 
 there cannot be any profit made by the employ 
 ment of labour, but in many cases the very 
 reasonable profit put on the materials used is 
 encroached upon to make the wage sheet 
 balance. 
 
 The possibility of such an event can, to a 
 great extent, be substantiated by our co-opera 
 tive societies ; for while they confine their 
 operations to buying and selling they succeed, 
 but the moment they commence manufacturing 
 they generally find an opposite result. There- 
 
Washington. 57 
 
 fore by it two things are proved: (i) That 
 co-operation on the ready cash principle is a 
 money-making institution when confined to 
 trading ; (2) When the labour question comes 
 in co-operation finds it difficult to make a 
 profit. The ordinary trader is placed at a 
 disadvantage ; for co-operation, as in England 
 displayed, injures the shopkeeper by taking his 
 ready-money customers, whom he could afford 
 to treat quite as liberally as any society can. 
 In fact, hundreds of capitalists would be de 
 lighted to embark on such a venture as even 
 increasing the benefits now gained by the 
 admirers of, and participators in, the co-opera 
 tive system. Therefore this much-lauded idea 
 cannot suggest a remedy for the difficulty. 
 
 The philosophy of a business friend, who has 
 just retired after years of hard work, struck me 
 as offering a key to the situation English trade 
 now presents. 
 
 What were his reasons for retiring ? The 
 main one was to retain what by industry he 
 had obtained, and the danger was that if he 
 continued in business his capital might vanish. 
 
 Why? Here are his conclusions: (i) Work 
 ing men want more wages ; (2) They give 
 less work than previously for a smaller wage ; 
 
58 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 (3) The prices I receive are lower. Now analyse, 
 in any way you will, these three facts, and you 
 cannot come to any other conclusion than that 
 there is something somewhere wrong. 
 
 What is it? This is the problem. Solve 
 it satisfactorily, and you will bless and benefit 
 both employer and employed. 
 
 The outlook for us is certainly not en 
 couraging, though we were first in the field 
 were rich, when others were poor, and had 
 the best chance. 
 
 Have we lost it ? 
 
 Foreign nations close their doors by pro 
 hibitive tariffs against our manufactures ; our 
 own colonies are growing angry, because we will 
 not show them the slightest favour in the 
 direction of mutual reciprocity, and I suppose 
 the primary result will be that capital and labour 
 will have a great war, and while interested 
 onlookers gaze with satisfaction, we shall have 
 to pay the piper by losing a still further slice 
 of our trade. Unfortunately, labour combina 
 tions will not view the situation in a matter-of- 
 fact light, and even some of our manufacturers 
 display the same ignorance. Here is a case. 
 A friend of mine, who had seen one branch of 
 his business slain by the foreigner, was one day 
 
Washington. 59 
 
 approached by a deputation of traders in 
 respect to another, then trembling in the 
 balance. Their proposal was for the trade to 
 combine and decline to sell below a certain 
 price. My friend was a man of wisdom, and 
 could see at a glance that this was simply invit 
 ing the foreign competitor to step in without the 
 slightest opposition. It was simply a request 
 for the murderer to do the deed at once, 
 without that postponement consequent upon 
 resistance. 
 
 But to return to Philadelphia. I have had 
 such a picture drawn by one of its wealthy 
 inhabitants that I wish I could find one English 
 town or city of which the same might be said. 
 Business men make money, which they ought 
 to do, and one said to me, " If you can manage 
 to live in England you would gain wealth here." 
 The same, after a fashion, might be said of the 
 working man ; and from what I can gather a 
 real good workman with a trade in his fingers, 
 in more places beside Philadelphia, by industry 
 and skill can live in comfort, have his own 
 house, and save well-nigh as much as he could 
 earn in our own country. 
 
 Here capitalists and labourers have their due 
 reward ; and the former would rather smile if I 
 
60 Across tlie Atlantic. 
 
 told them the small margin of profit some of 
 our manufacturers receive for a vast deal more 
 worry, anxiety, and trouble. 
 
 Philadelphia has much to boast of beside 
 her increasing commerce, her happy homes, or 
 even the hundreds of churches she possesses. 
 She has a very beautiful park, and I think I 
 am right in describing it as the largest public 
 city park in the world. However, I have 
 heard of its glories and the beautiful river it 
 skirts on both sides ; in fact, such wonders have 
 been told of " Fairmount Park," and all the 
 other attractions of this prosperous place, that 
 we felt almost inclined to stay a little, but we 
 did not like to leave our company. 
 
 My chief informant was not one of those 
 unreliable men who make everything too large, 
 for he proved to be just the opposite. He stated 
 the park contained 2500 acres, and I find upon 
 inquiring that I may safely add another 500 
 to this ; so you see not all American citizens 
 possess that stretching capacity which is generally 
 associated with the tall stories we hear. 
 
 The railway crosses the river here, I under 
 stand, almost 200 ft. above the water level ; and 
 if I had any voice in American railway 
 management, or the state department dealing 
 
Washing ton . 6 1 
 
 with them, I should certainly demand an 
 immediate inquiry as to the stability of all 
 railway bridges by a properly qualified and 
 constituted authority. My impression is that 
 many of them are very unsafe ; and after examin 
 ing the massive bridges the railway companies 
 have compelled the Manchester Ship Canal 
 Company to construct, I consider some of these 
 American bridges very flimsy, and now that 
 engines and rolling stock are much heavier 
 than when they were designed they seem quite 
 inadequate to stand safely the strain to which 
 they are subjected. 
 
 America, you are far behind us in your 
 respect for life and limb, and you would do 
 well to copy us in some things, although you 
 are far ahead of us in others. Let us learn 
 from each other, and make each other wise ! 
 
 The next great city we reach is Baltimore, 
 christened after Lord Baltimore, and now 
 famous for numerous manufactures ; the canning 
 and tanning trades occupying a respectable 
 position, and it is a great export place for 
 grain, lumber, etc., and has a population of 
 about half a million. 
 
 English travellers experience the novelty of 
 being ferried over a river, train and all 
 
62 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 complete ; and, if so minded, you can alight 
 and stand on the huge barge and watch the 
 arrangements for gaining the metals on the 
 other side. 
 
 Our British farmers might be interested to 
 know that 50,000 tons of hay were being 
 shipped from here to the British Isles. 
 
 The Americans do not travel about the world 
 for nothing ; the gentleman who gave me the 
 above- information before leaving the s.s. Berlin 
 informed me England wanted hay, France corn, 
 etc., etc. ; and so they visit these various 
 countries and find out these items of information 
 for themselves. I rather think he had a hand 
 in this large shipment of hay, but whoever 
 made the speculation must have secured a fine 
 advantage, especially if one report I saw in 
 a newspaper should prove correct : 
 
 "It is claimed that baled hay sells for fifty 
 dollars a ton in England. The buyers get it 
 in Dakota for two dollars per ton, and pay 
 the expenses of baling and shipping." The 
 latter figure I think must be a misprint if not, 
 the profit would be enormous ; but it is highly 
 probable the selling price is magnified and the 
 buying figure understated. 
 
 A good luncheon is provided en route, and we 
 
Washington. 63 
 
 arrived at Washington at 4.30 in the afternoon. 
 Of course the next morning paper had its 
 half-column of matter, but differed in some 
 particulars, for the Washington Journal made 
 our society double the age of its New York 
 contemporary. 
 
 The concluding paragraph ran as follows : 
 "The Commissioners are men of wealth and 
 leisure, most of whom have retired from 
 business. They are stalwart, healthy-looking 
 Englishmen, with ruddy cheeks, typical of the 
 upper classes, and run to rough brown tweeds 
 in their attire. Except for the weather, which 
 they find too torrid for their tastes, they express 
 themselves unanimously as much pleased with 
 America." 
 
 The great sight in Washington is the Capitol, 
 her crowning glory, of which she may be justly 
 proud, for it is a nobly designed structure, well 
 worthy of the political capital of the United 
 States. 
 
 The situation, Capitol Hill, is much finer for 
 effect than that on which our own Houses of 
 Parliament are erected, although you have not 
 here the evidences of antiquity, and no vener 
 able abbeys on which long centuries have 
 gazed. The guide-book informs you " the plan 
 
64 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 of the city is unique " ; " the city of Philadelphia 
 griddled across the city of Versailles." What 
 ever this may mean let every reader decide for 
 himself; but it is quite certain the approaches 
 to the Capitol, and the general effect presented, 
 clearly indicate that the designer had a good 
 idea of Continental cities, and you feel like 
 ascending the Champs Elysees to the Arc de 
 Triomphe, or mounting the well-wooded road 
 to the magnificent palace of Versailles, or 
 walking up Karl Johans Gade to the king s 
 palace at Christiania. 
 
 The Capitol is really fine, and of course you 
 may pardon the pride of Americans who claim 
 it to be the grandest public edifice in the 
 world. Such may be the case, and I am not 
 going to dispute it, for its imposing dimensions 
 make a great impression on those who can 
 appreciate such an architectural success. 
 
 The building covers three and a half acres ; 
 and the grounds, which are decorated with 
 fountains and statuary, comprise about fifty 
 acres. These, I gather from the local news 
 paper, require the constant care of twenty-five 
 gardeners, while the same number of men are 
 employed scrubbing the corridors and steps of 
 the building. 
 
Washington. 65 
 
 At the hotel a chaste little book is presented 
 to visitors, and this gives good views of the 
 various places of interest, and also sundry 
 information respecting them. The Capitol is 
 stated to be 752 ft. 4 in. in length ; its breadth 
 324 ft; and its majestic dome is 380 ft. above 
 the level of the Potomac. General Washington 
 laid the corner stone of the original building 
 in 1793, which was completed in 1811, burned 
 by the British in 1814, and the rebuilding 
 finished in 1827. 
 
 We had no opportunity of testing these 
 dimensions, but if incorrect the blame must 
 fall on the compiler of "Washington and its 
 Environs." 
 
 We were escorted over the place by a duly 
 appointed guide, who showed to us the two 
 houses where the big speeches are made and 
 the stormy debates take place ; fortunately, the 
 representatives and senators were not sitting, 
 for I understand shortly afterwards one man 
 made a speech lasting three days, and, like 
 other long speeches, had little or nothing in it. 
 They say that there are 205 lawyers in the 
 present congress ; and it has been cruelly 
 suggested that it is curious the mouth of the 
 Mississippi River has never been elected. I 
 
 5 
 
66 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 suppose on account of its wide, windy mouth ; 
 for it is stated that even a great hurricane 
 had its attention called to the terrific wind 
 constantly in action under the dome of the 
 Capitol, and at once dropped its conquering 
 wings and passed by. Well, the most hon 
 ourable the president of this Republic has 
 cracked his joke at the expense of the British 
 House of Commons, to restore the equi 
 librium of the Capitol s amateurs ; but it is of no 
 
 use, Mr. P , you have the worst of it. Our 
 
 scene was a disgrace to Parliamentary usage, 
 but yours was a much greater, and well 
 might The Galignani Messenger beneath its 
 account place these sensible words : " This is 
 very amusing reading, but one is tempted 
 to ask whether it would not more fitly figure 
 as a passage descriptive of farcical comedy, 
 rather than of the actual procedure of the 
 American Legislature in the settlement of a 
 question of the highest import." 
 
 They have a few pictures in the Capitol, but 
 if the money paid for some is the price stated, 
 even Americans can be taken in and done for. 
 The library we found in rather a disordered 
 condition, for the space seems inadequate for 
 fehe large number of books ; but probably some 
 
Washington. 67 
 
 of these will be transferred to the splendid new 
 library now being erected a few hundred yards 
 away. There are some very fine echoes to be 
 heard beneath the dome, and in one case the 
 repeating voice seems to come from beneath 
 your feet. I was rather amused with the label 
 of a chair, which was carefully placed within a 
 roped enclosure. I thought sure enough this 
 was a precious relic of bygone days ; but when 
 I ventured to stride over the rope, and turn 
 the label, I found these words: "This chair 
 belongs to the policeman of the senate gallery." 
 Well done, policeman ! Keep up your dig 
 nity, for you are well paid, for you and your 
 associates cost the country $39,000 a year for 
 guarding the edifice. What do you think of 
 that, Mr. English Policeman ? for an ordinary 
 man of your profession in some parts of this 
 country receives his ^"250 a year, and a pension 
 of ;ioo after so many years service; or if a 
 man dies his wife and family receive very 
 generous treatment. Each representative and 
 senator receives $416 a month i.e., every month ; 
 this I calculate to mean $2,232,000 a year for 
 the two assemblies ; and although this is a big 
 sum, I venture to affirm that America could 
 have her affairs better attended to for nothing, 
 
68 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 for her best citizens would not stoop to receive 
 such a sum for their services, as they can make 
 a vast deal more by attending to their business ; 
 though many of them would gladly become 
 members of these parliamentary assemblies, if 
 they could be rid of the lower-class men who 
 are tempted to go there through payment, and 
 what they can make through bribery and 
 corruption. 
 
 Every one knows the system wants cleansing, 
 and well would it be for the American con 
 tinent if her best men would make the heavy 
 sacrifice a sterling patriotism demands. 
 
 Municipal affairs in some cities are in the 
 same sad state; and I need only mention, as 
 a sample, New York city, and call attention 
 to what is now public property the notorious 
 cases of downright swindling that in recent 
 years have taken place. 
 
 Let those persons in England now clamour 
 ing for payment of members look at the 
 state of other legislatures, where money-pur 
 chased patriotism reigns ; nay, see the state 
 of our own House of Commons, now degraded 
 before all the civilised world. And why? 
 Because some of the members are already 
 paid, if not by the state by private individuals 
 
Washington. 69 
 
 or associations. And before our eyes we have 
 a sample of the men money can purchase, and 
 as a result some of our wisest men leave the 
 political arena in disgust. 
 
 See the grave crisis America is passing 
 through at the present time, which has neces 
 sitated calling her legislatures together to 
 prevent further trouble. 
 
 The Silver question is on every one s lips, and 
 the newspapers full of it. 
 
 But why this difficulty ? Why was the 
 Silver Bill ever passed ? There are suspicious 
 rumours circulating which certainly appear to be 
 founded on fact, and which answer the question. 
 
 Things will soon right themselves, but after 
 a season of suffering and anxiety which is all 
 self-inflicted. 
 
 If while repealing the Silver Act, or suspending 
 it, whichever it may be, the act sanctioning the 
 payment of representatives and senators were 
 also repealed, the legislature would be relieved 
 of its worst members, and better men would be 
 found to fill their places ; for you cannot get 
 a priceless service given for a mere money 
 consideration. 
 
 My best wish for America is, that her con 
 gressmen may be as substantial as her Capitol, 
 
7O Across the Atlantic. 
 
 for this noble pile gives you an idea of well- 
 selected materials, erected upon a solid founda 
 tion. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Executive mansion, 
 usually called the White House, which is also 
 bounded by extensive and well-la id-out grounds. 
 We were conducted through the state parlours, 
 in which hang good portraits, and the official 
 makes a special point of telling us how many 
 dollars a yard the wall-hangings have cost. 
 
 This establishment is the official residence 
 of the President for the time being, and not a 
 bad place either. 
 
 There is one thing that any careful observer 
 cannot fail to notice : that, in spite of all the 
 loud talk of the glories of a republic, there 
 is, nevertheless, a strong undercurrent of feeling 
 which plaintively and silently sighs for a 
 monarchy. Society requires this, honesty pleads 
 for it, and a deep-rooted longing for permanency 
 and rest appeals for it. In the face, however, 
 of an overpowering element, the public advocacy 
 of these inwardly felt sentiments has no place ; 
 but the onlooker sees signs of its growing 
 existence in " Royal " this and " Royal " that 
 read and duly noted on all hands. America, 
 we are to the front of you ; for we have, thank 
 
Washington. 7 1 
 
 Heaven ! in reality what your most enlightened 
 people greatly long for. 
 
 Deny you may, but facts are facts all the 
 world over, and they speak with no uncertain 
 sound. 
 
 We now pass to the Treasury Building, a 
 $7,000,000 erection of fine comprehension, 
 where we saw the stamping of the American 
 greenbacks, and the worn-out ones cut up, 
 to be transferred to the pulp mill, thence on 
 to the manufacturer to construct all sorts of 
 animals, ornaments, etc., for visitors to purchase 
 as curiosities. 
 
 CONTENTS OF VAULTS IN U. S. TREASURER S OFFICE. 
 
 DESCRIPTION. 
 
 $93,250,000 
 56,000,000 
 21,363,000 
 63,000 
 
 3,500,000 
 
 1,000,000 
 
 1,000,000 
 
 Standard silver dollars. 
 Standard silver dollars. 
 Gold coin. 
 Fractional silver. 
 National bank notes received for redemption. 
 Mixed moneys received daily for redemption. 
 Mixed moneys for daily use. 
 
 277,000,000 Held as reserve to replace worn and mutilated 
 notes unfit for circulation. 
 
 653,176,000 
 
 Total weight of coin about 5000 tons. 
 
 In the afternoon we had a long drive, led by 
 a four-in-hand coach, by the great Washington 
 Statue, 550 ft. high, the State, War and Navy 
 
72 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 Buildings, and on through the 5oo-acre park 
 in which stands the Soldier s Home. This was 
 founded in 1851, soon after the Mexican war, 
 and was suggested by General Scott. This 
 white marble building, with its church-like 
 tower, forms a conspicuous object in the land 
 scape, and can be seen many miles distant. It 
 is one of the main features in the panorama 
 you behold from the Capitol, some three miles 
 away. This institution is specially founded for 
 the benefit of aged and invalid soldiers, and 
 they pass their days here in the midst of the 
 most comfortable and ample provision made 
 to bring joy to their existence for they are 
 well fed, well clothed, and carefully tended, 
 beside having a palace-like home to live in. 
 
 Some of the presidents, we hear, reside in a 
 part of this Home occasionally ; and it is said 
 the famous Lincoln passed here some of the 
 last hours of his life before his assassination. 
 
 It stands aloft, "The Soldier s Home," 
 
 Build in a splendid style, 
 Where warriors, in their closing days, 
 
 In luxury beguile 
 The weeks, or months, or maybe years 
 
 Making the span of life ; 
 Where enemies attack no more, 
 
 Away from war and strife, 
 
Washington. 73 
 
 And where the charms of nature reign, 
 
 Comfort and peace abound, 
 And many bright embellishments 
 
 Both in and out are found. 
 
 America may well be proud 
 
 Of this erection fine, 
 In keeping with her generous thoughts, 
 
 With which her acts combine 
 To make her soldiers latter days 
 
 The golden days of those 
 Who can be free from worldly strife 
 
 And find a calm repose. 
 
 Ah ! favoured warriors, few there are 
 
 In lands beside your own 
 Who revel in such luxuries 
 
 And have your stately home ; 
 Live in surroundings of such worth, 
 
 Receive attentions great, 
 For most of w r hat you do enjoy 
 
 Is paid for by the state. 
 
 Oh ! happy soldiers ! happy state, 
 
 That can afford such things ! 
 But happier far the future bright 
 
 If in its train it brings 
 The blessing of a world-wide peace, 
 
 When war shall no more be, 
 And all the nations of the earth 
 
 wShall live in unity. 
 
 Returning through the woods, we see the 
 Capitol through what I may call " The Lover s 
 
74 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Peep-hole," an opening in the trees through 
 which lovers may walk, and beneath a long 
 line of shady boughs speak their tales of love 
 with only the happy birds to join in the 
 chorus. 
 
 Ah, love ! sweet love ! should I ever know 
 thee, may I find such a delightful avenue 
 wherein to sing thy praises ! 
 
 Away we roll at a rattling pace down the 
 hill, and are soon landed at our hotel. O ye 
 timid people ! how would you like to lodge 
 in a city where a notice like this, in large 
 characters, is found near your bedroom door ? 
 
 EBBITT HOUSE, WASHINGTON. 
 
 IRotice, 
 
 BOLT AND LOCK YOUR DOORS! 
 
 LOOK OUT FOR HOTEL THIEVES! 
 
 TAKE VALUABLES TO THE OFFICE ! 
 
 The House has Police and Watchmen on every Floor 
 Night and Day. 
 
 PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH FIRES AND MATCHES. 
 
 Sec Fire Escapes on each Floor ! 
 
Washington. 75 
 
 If this notice is necessary in one of the 
 most respectable hotels in the place, what 
 should we find in one of the others ? 
 
 Blood-curdling notices, to end in ghostly 
 dreams. 
 
 Some of us went to see the building where 
 about twenty Government clerks had just lost 
 their lives, and over double that number injured 
 through the falling of a floor; and I believe 
 this was the very same house or theatre where 
 President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. 
 The outside gave no evidences of collapse, but 
 this can be accounted for by the manner of 
 constructing American houses. Many of the 
 large business places and institutions now being 
 erected seem all framed together with iron, 
 and the floors put in before the outer walls, 
 which are usually of great thickness, are built. 
 These latter are mainly storm-resisting case 
 ments, and are not considered as materially 
 required for floor pressure purposes. 
 
 It was tampering with the foundations of 
 the inside erection which caused this terrible 
 catastrophe in Washington ; and owing to some 
 dislocation which was not observed the floor 
 of the building fell with a crash, and such 
 deplorable consequences followed. Our time 
 
76 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 in Washington was very limited, but we saw 
 more than sufficient to enable us to leave this 
 beautiful city with lofty ideas of its fine 
 residences, noble institutions, and well-made 
 streets ; for, be it known, and to the credit of 
 Congress be it spoken, that what we should term 
 its municipal affairs were managed by Congress 
 direct; and its electric-lighted streets, its well- 
 arranged tramways, its wide, well-laid thorough 
 fares, and numberless other things, speak to 
 the ability displayed by those answerable for 
 its management. 
 
 If the City Paving Committee of the New 
 York Council would come here, and follow the 
 good example set, we should not find great 
 busy streets paved with 14 in. setts, and those 
 ugly holes about the curbstones which are so 
 dangerous to life and limb. 
 
 " RENDER THEREFORE TO ALL THEIR DUES." 
 
 You ask, what have we to say about Wash 
 ington in closing this chapter ? Well, this 
 
 Her legislative system I abhor and hate, 
 But yet to this fine city I don t hesitate 
 
 To give a splendid name. 
 
 Trusting she will heed Wisdom s voice in this her day, 
 Lest others in the future may with trueness say, 
 
 Her glory is her shame. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 A place of quick-built greatness, but mightier far to be, 
 To grace the shores of Michigan, the splendid inland sea ; 
 A city whose surprising leaps reads like a fairy page, 
 Which history, unadorned, declares the wonder of the 
 age. 
 
 LEAVING Washington, we had instead of 
 a twenty-four hours ride what proved to 
 be twenty-seven before we landed at Chicago, 
 that mighty city of the West. Soon after leaving 
 the capital our saloon was converted into a sleep 
 ing apartment, from which most of us emerged in 
 the early morning, to view a different and more 
 elevating kind of scenery than that to which 
 our railway travelling had previously introduced 
 us. We reached Pittsburg in fairly good time, 
 and breakfasted at a clean, well-appointed hotel 
 near the station. We were allowed about an 
 hour, but could not in that short space see 
 much of this great, industrial, busy city, to 
 which the recent disastrous strike had drawn 
 
7 8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 our special attention. I wonder what William 
 Pitt would say, could he offer an opinion of this 
 city, called after him, and now one of the chief 
 manufacturing cities in the United States ! 
 
 Here the great Westinghouse Electric Plant 
 Works finds a home, employing thousands of 
 hands ; and since passing through Pittsburg, I 
 have had the pleasure of a long conversation 
 with one of the partners of this enterprising 
 concern a gentleman of high intelligence, and 
 a great authority on electrical matters. It is a 
 great treat to meet with such a well-informed 
 man, who can enlighten you on so many 
 subjects about which you are trying to gain 
 knowledge. 
 
 In and around this city are the immense iron 
 interests of Carnegie, Phipps, & Co., a concern 
 with a capital of $25,000,000, the major portion 
 of which is still held by Mr. Carnegie himself. 
 
 Natural gas is found here ; but, unfortunately, 
 in former days it was wasted to such an 
 enormous extent that it was even used for 
 cooling the glass houses. Now it is better 
 preserved, and used extensively for cooking 
 purposes, for its heating properties are much 
 greater than coal gas ; and from the statistics 
 the gentleman above mentioned favoured me 
 
Chicago. 79 
 
 with, I find they are about the proportion of 
 3 to 2 in other words 50 per cent, greater. 
 
 This city has a population of several hundred 
 thousand, and according to a local newspaper, 
 which has devoted a large space to the subject, 
 they are very fond of water melons and canta 
 loupes, which is a melon of a smaller size ; but 
 the water melon, we are told, is supposed to be 
 the same as in Numbers xi. 5. These come 
 from Georgia, and the farmer sells them there 
 at 2 or 3 cents each, but the commission 
 brokers in Pittsburg obtain from $18 to $25 
 a hundred, and they are retailed from 35 to 50 
 cents each, so there seems a good margin 
 for railway companies, shippers, commission 
 men, and retailers. 
 
 At this season of the year the Pittsburgians 
 are eating these luscious green striped ovals at 
 the rate of from fifteen to thirty thousand a 
 day. The wine drinkers have a special way of 
 dealing with them. They make an opening at 
 one side, pour in a quart of good claret, then 
 plug up the aperture, place the melon in 
 chopped ice until the wine has saturated it, 
 then bring to the table for consumption. 
 
 This " smoky city " or " iron city " both 
 appellations have been bestowed upon it has 
 
So Across the Atlantic. 
 
 many things to interest the man of business, 
 and the student of the science of commerce 
 might do worse than spend a little time here, 
 where at present he would notice, through the 
 feeling of uncertainty existing, a key to unravel 
 more than one business problem. 
 
 One of our party had the misfortune to put 
 his shoulder out ; but with his own knowledge 
 and " the admiral s " assistance this was soon 
 righted. This gentleman was also seized with 
 a violent illness ; but I was very glad that before 
 leaving home we had obtained from our clever, 
 commonsense doctor sundry medicines in case 
 of emergency, with instructions as to their 
 application. One of these was just the kind 
 required for this case of sickness, and the 
 gentleman to whom it rendered such a service 
 will long remember with gratitude its efficacy. 
 What a glowing testimonial he could write if 
 this had been one of those patent medicines 
 we hear so much about ! 
 
 Our luncheon was brought to the train in 
 little boxes, and each of these contained quite 
 an assortment of luxuries. 
 
 For dinner or supper, whichever it might be 
 termed, we alighted at a small station, and 
 some of the passengers were rather upset 
 
Chicago. 8 1 
 
 because they could not obtain intoxicants. Of 
 course it was no inconvenience to us, as we 
 never drink them, and we enjoyed our cup of 
 tea and the other good things provided. 
 
 I suppose we must have entered some dis 
 trict where the prohibitive law was in force, 
 and certainly the officials in this restaurant did 
 not suffer when compared with those where 
 liquor is sold. But the system is not a com 
 plete success anywhere; for although it may 
 have in the eyes of some earnest people sundry 
 advantages, it has also its drawbacks, for people 
 who drink will have drink, and even if the drug 
 stores where every ^1000 worth of stock is 
 said to represent ^950 of liquor were closed, 
 some other means would be invented to supply 
 the demand ; therefore, as a temperance man, I 
 would rather rely upon the old-fashioned moral 
 suasion plan to emancipate any country from 
 the thraldom of drunkenness. 
 
 Through one of the axle bearings becoming 
 heated we had to pull up several times, and 
 when we arrived in Chicago we were three 
 hours late, and it was about one o clock in the 
 morning before we reached our hotel. 
 
 The entrance to Chicago by rail is rather 
 dangerous, for we were informed that the 
 
 6 
 
82 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 frequent stoppages, and the continued tolling 
 of the engine bell on nearing the city, were 
 caused in consequence of the line crossing 
 sixteen or eighteen others on the level. 
 
 England would not allow this, so here is 
 another chalk for the old country and one 
 against the new. 
 
 Well, from all the terrible warnings we had 
 before leaving home, about the shanty hotels of 
 the mushroom city of Chicago, and the cer 
 tainty that we should never get out of the place 
 alive, or see old England again, we were 
 surprised to look on a city with majestic 
 buildings, thousands of high-class residences, 
 and some of the finest hotels the world has 
 ever seen. The Lexington Hotel, where we 
 stayed, is not the largest by a long way, but has 
 five hundred rooms, and is " absolutely fire 
 proof." The most fearful stones were told to 
 others, beside ourselves, as to the desperate 
 things they had to expect. Here are a few 
 words from a Canadian paper : 
 
 " We had heard that fifty thousand pro 
 fessional thieves would attend the Fair, besides 
 the amateurs ; that a great many people would 
 be sand-bagged and dumped into Chicago river ; 
 that the drinking-water in Chicago was muddy, 
 
Chicago. 83 
 
 and smelled of vile odours ; that there was not 
 half enough accommodation for the people ; 
 that every hour the hands of the thieves 
 would pass silently over your whole clothing, 
 and feel where your valuables or money were 
 concealed ; that there would hardly be a church 
 open to go to on the Sabbath." 
 
 Chicago has had a bad character given to 
 her, and is assuredly not what English people 
 are led to suppose ; for she possesses beautiful 
 parks, miles upon miles of avenues of the 
 Continental style, with well-built, nicely-kept 
 villa residences of almost every design. 
 
 Let complaining, misinformed people cease to 
 deride a city like this, which has sprung from a 
 little village of a hundred inhabitants whites, 
 half-breeds, and blacks, and in 1830 had only 
 fifteen houses, but now has a population of over 
 one million souls, and possesses the greatest 
 cattle and corn market on the face of the earth. 
 A city like this, which has resisted two dis 
 astrous fires, which has invested $50,000,000 in 
 public schools, possesses many parks, one of 
 which is a thousand acres in extent, has scores 
 of great boulevards a hundred and fifty or two 
 hundred feet wide, a frontage of twenty-two 
 miles on the shores of a lake whose waters 
 
84 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 must cover twenty thousand square miles, rail 
 ways from all parts, river linage over forty 
 miles ; covering an area of over a hundred and 
 fifty square miles, with art institutions, public 
 buildings of immense strength and size, a 
 baseball inclosure with sitting accommodation 
 for twelve thousand persons, an auditorium, 
 with its ten-floored hotel and its theatre with 
 seven thousand seats, a masonic temple with 
 its twenty stories, pleasure gardens and vast 
 squares with rich horticultural attractions, 
 colleges, churches, chapels, and colossal business 
 premises, has no need to be pitied, but should 
 receive the congratulations of admiring multi 
 tudes far and near, for the indomitable energy, 
 the great mental power, the resource and perse 
 verance displayed by the men who have seized 
 the opportunity and reared this mighty metro 
 polis of the West, which may claim a legitimate 
 place among the wonders of the world. Let 
 the reader who disputes this statistical informa 
 tion search the authenticated records himself, 
 or some respectable guide-book, and he will 
 find I have in no way exaggerated Chicago s 
 position, but have understated her claim to 
 respect and greatness. 
 
 Now to give an idea of one of the large 
 
Chicago. 85 
 
 business firms here, whose specialities find 
 their way to the English market, and are also 
 extensively consumed in France and Germany. 
 Some of us paid a visit to the stock-yards of 
 Chicago. A number of the cattle sold are 
 shipped alive to distant parts of the country, 
 and a case of great cruelty has just been 
 brought to light. At a certain point of the 
 journey water was provided, but the plugs were 
 removed from the troughs by the men in charge, 
 so that on arrival at their destination the cattle 
 would each drink from fifty to sixty pounds of 
 water, and being sold by weight would so 
 enrich the seller. This system was detected, 
 and a prosecution instituted. But the bulk of 
 the cattle are slaughtered at Messrs. Armour 
 & Company s huge concern, which we visited, 
 close to the yards. This would have been the 
 place for the orthodox Hindoo to deliver his 
 righteous execrations, for these religionists are 
 very loud in their denunciations of Christians, 
 Mohammedans and others, who destroy the 
 sacred animal they venerate ; though even some 
 of these worshippers of the cow sell their old 
 ones when the supply of milk fails, and with 
 the money purchase younger animals. Where 
 do the old ones go to ? Perhaps not to a large 
 
86 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 stock-yard, but direct to the butcher s ; and so 
 the bloodguiltiness, if any, rests on the knowing 
 seller as well as the slayer. 
 
 Although we were not allowed to go through 
 every department of these giant works, we saw 
 quite sufficient ; and went to see, in his snug 
 apartment, " Billy, the Banco Steer." No 
 cattle were being slaughtered, so this educated 
 Steer was covered with a white cloth, as he had 
 no work to do. 
 
 A task repulsive, yet thou knowest not 
 The crime thou dost commit ! 
 
 His work is to lead up the unwilling cattle to 
 the slaughter, and having acted the part of 
 betrayer, they rush in through the open door, 
 while he turns round and repeats the operation, 
 like many loathsome men 
 
 Who lead poor mortals to their doom, 
 And never think of shame. 
 
 We were received at the office with great 
 civility, and, like the two thousand visitors daily, 
 were presented with a souvenir, and also a 
 card giving the operations of the firm for the 
 past twelve months. 
 
 The buildings cover a vast area, the exact 
 
Chicago. 87 
 
 extent of which I cannot well define, for the 
 figures furnished embrace, I suppose, their 
 packing works in Kansas City ; but, as far as I 
 can calculate, their whole works, slaughtering, 
 chilling and packing, and glue-making, cover 
 by buildings over seventy acres, floor area 
 about two hundred acres, and they have cold 
 storage for 150,000 tons of meat. 
 
 As regards their business transactions, we will 
 give a copy of the card handed to us. 
 
 EXTRACT FROM THE GENERAL BUSINESS OF 
 
 ARMOUR & COMPANY, AND ARMOUR PACKING 
 COMPANY, 
 
 CHICAGO AND KANSAS CITY, 
 In the year ending April is/, 1893. 
 
 Distributive Sales $102,000,000 
 
 Hogs killed 1,750,000 
 
 Cattle killed 1,080,000 
 
 Sheep killed 625,000 
 
 Number of Employe s 11,000 
 
 Aggregate Wages paid . . . . . $5,500,000 
 
 Car Equipment . . . . . . 4,000 
 
 Horses in Use ...... 700 
 
 ARMOUR GLUE WORKS, 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 Total Manufacture of Glue . . . Ibs. 12,000,000 
 Number of Employe s .... 750 
 
88 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 I understand this enterprising firm will shortly 
 commence tanning the immense number of 
 hides they deal with, and then the English 
 tanning trade will have to face additional com 
 petition, for a firm with a London office like 
 this has, is certain to make England its favourite 
 hunting-ground. 
 
 I never knew until recently, on reading of 
 "The Guild of Tanners " festival in Rome, 
 that they had a patron saint. Will he be 
 appealed to in this coming difficulty? 
 
 This reminds me of rather a plaintive song a 
 tanner in England sang for me a few years ago. 
 He went in for certain bye-products, and was 
 accustomed to ship these to Russia and 
 Austria. The former country placed on a 
 tariff that made it impossible for him to ship 
 anything further to that country ; and one day, 
 to his dismay, a customer came from Austria, 
 as he thought with a good order, and was 
 received with open arms ; but the order was 
 not forthcoming, and instead this request was 
 
 made : " Mr. , I am come to ask you if you 
 
 could let me have one of your managers : I 
 don t want your first man, but your second would 
 do for me. The fact is, we are going to manu 
 facture the article we bought from you, and the 
 
CJiicago. 89 
 
 Government will put on such a duty that you 
 will not be able to sell again in our country." 
 
 The Austrian did not get the manager as 
 requested, but the English tanner nevertheless 
 lost the trade. 
 
 Our problem is getting rather serious, for if 
 all foreign markets are closed to us, and these 
 countries send their surplus stocks and sell at 
 a price so that we cannot retain our home trade, 
 our manufactories must cease, our working classes 
 emigrate, and England become the residence of 
 rich capitalists, who have drawn out of actual 
 trade at home, invested their money in foreign 
 industries, and can now look on the struggle 
 between capital and labour, well knowing that 
 such a conflict represents increased dividends 
 for their investments, for we have had sufficient 
 experience to prove that every commercial 
 disturbance means the transference of so much 
 trade to other countries. 
 
 So go at it, interested capitalists ; do your 
 utmost to encourage strife and discord at home ; 
 and, ye well-paid agitators, encourage your men 
 to stand for their "rights"; both of you line 
 your pockets with the glittering coin, and let 
 the poor, despised, patriotic English trader, with 
 the handful of honest-hearted working men, view 
 
go Across the Atlantic. 
 
 with awe the approaching calamity, and calmly 
 await the coming doom. But, if the light 
 should shine before it is too late, remember, ye 
 sowers of discord, that an awakened intelligence 
 will pour upon you its vehement castigations. 
 Our most delightful estates are being eagerly 
 bought up by wealthy Americans from our 
 partly dethroned aristocracy. Our workmen are 
 singing the now appropriate song, "The 
 Starving Poor of Old England," and we even 
 find banners displayed with words like these : 
 " We want food for our wives and families ; give 
 
 us work to get it, or, by , we ll take it." The 
 
 British workman has been deluded by his twin- 
 deceivers, the party politicians and the trade 
 agitators, and he now reaps the fruit of his folly. 
 England suffers, and that severely. What she 
 wants now is fair treatment by her competitors, 
 and the enterprise of her commercial men given 
 freedom ; and, in the natural course of events, 
 work would be found for her idle sons. 
 
 Now, even Chicago is suffering from a 
 temporary difficulty, with all her advantages, 
 through the great number of men who have come 
 from almost all nations, attracted with the hope 
 of employment at " The \Vorld s Fair." Some 
 gained their desires for a time, and had work, 
 
Chicago. 9 1 
 
 but the expenses had to be cut down, and 
 consequently many were thrown idle. One 
 Englishman approached one of our party who 
 knew his antecedents, and we had to subscribe 
 money to take him home. But there are 
 hundreds of them, some of whom would be no 
 better if sent to their several countries, for they 
 belong to the " ne er-do-wells," who will not 
 work, wherever they may be. 
 
 The Mayor of Chicago has been strongly 
 condemned by the newspapers for making 
 a speech in which he said : " There are 
 200,000 people in Chicago to-day unemployed, 
 and almost destitute of money. If Congress 
 does not give us plenty of money, we will have 
 riots that will shake the country." 
 
 This was the lighted match ; and of course the 
 fire soon came, for since we have read of one 
 riot. " The Mayor saw the whole affair from a 
 window of one of the offices. He was very 
 indignant at the brutal manner in which the 
 police were treated by the mob, who beat, 
 kicked, and stoned them unmercifully." Such 
 is always the case : a man magnifies an evil a 
 hundredfold, suggests a wrong remedy, and, 
 because relief does not come, force is resorted 
 to. We have just the same effect in Ireland 
 
92 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 presented to us to-day, and the work of the 
 insane orator is apparent ; for passions can soon 
 be inflamed, and even affection changed to 
 hatred. One of the noblest women I know 
 told me, with tears in her eyes, in her beautiful 
 English mansion, how the agitator s venom had 
 turned the very hearts of people against her, 
 for whose welfare she had given the best years of 
 her life, and who gave in return an affectionate 
 appreciation. 
 
 Her husband owned a few thousand acres of 
 land in Ireland ; they lived at their home there 
 among the people in peace and contentment ; 
 and were more like a happy family than landlord 
 and tenant. But what a change ! the very lady 
 who had done so much for her poorer brethren 
 became the object of curses by the agitators, 
 and amongst her former friends had to be 
 escorted to church by a policeman walking on 
 each side, and all because her husband was a 
 landlord. 
 
 If a beautiful woman could be subjected to 
 such treatment from the people she loved, and 
 still loves, through the villainous interference of 
 unprincipled scoundrels, what could be expected 
 from a number of men described as "the 
 scum of the earth " when incendiary language 
 
Chicago. 93 
 
 such as the Mayor gave utterance to was 
 addressed to them? 
 
 There is no doubt America is in a serious 
 difficulty through her large army of good-for- 
 nothing aliens, who tramp from place to place 
 to the terror of unprotected females in country 
 houses. 
 
 I suppose it would not be a rash estimate to 
 put these down at 500,000; and then matters are 
 not made better by the stoppage of several works, 
 which, though only of a temporary character, pre 
 sents another phase of the unemployed problem. 
 The United States are passing through a short 
 season of depression, and the flowing tide of 
 prosperity has received a slight check, not 
 from one cause alone but from a combination. 
 Within this group may be placed the silver ques 
 tion, great speculation in real estate with little 
 but paper money, and the uncertainty existing 
 whether the high tariffs of M Kinley origin will be 
 modified. As far as I can gauge the feeling of 
 manufacturers they do not care personally what 
 the several tariffs may be, so long as they can 
 regulate the wage question with some certainty, 
 for as the tariff rises or falls the wages must be 
 affected. What they most demand is that fluctu 
 ation should cease, and that the fiscal arrange- 
 
94 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 ments should exist to serve the dual object of 
 keeping up wages so that the employed will be 
 content, and that their productions should only 
 have to face home competition. I suppose our 
 English Free Traders would say this is a 
 mistake ; but it has suited this country, made 
 many fortunes, and enabled the working classes 
 to live in comfort. Now, if I am asked how 
 this system would work in England, my reply is 
 that it appears we shall be gradually driven to 
 adopt it, however reluctant we may be to do so. 
 Of course, during the last fifteen years trade has 
 not advanced at such a rate with us as it did in 
 the flourishing years preceding. 
 
 In the palmy days, with a tax-earning tariff, we 
 should have had to face another difficulty, for 
 the probability is, that commerce would have 
 increased by such leaps and bounds that our 
 British Workman would have displayed the 
 weakness of some well-fed horses " which 
 cannot carry corn." 
 
 Our trade has increased undoubtedly during 
 the fifty years we have had what is called " free 
 trade," although no one can say that this is 
 through this policy; for other countries with the 
 opposite one can claim the same, or probably a 
 greater, proportionate increase. Therefore, some 
 
Chicago. 95 
 
 come to the conclusion that the only way one 
 sided Free Trade has been a blessing to England, 
 has been to act as a clog to her progress and 
 keep her people within proper bounds. Well, 
 perhaps we might have got above with ourselves, 
 and even "this supposed blessing or affliction 
 may have been for the best; but I must say I do 
 not like to see our industries extinguished, and 
 employment for the industrious cease, if we 
 could devise any means to secure both. 
 It is a question which will have to be fought 
 out, and whenever the struggle comes may the 
 right decide. 
 
 There are many fine industries in Chicago, 
 and the Board of Trade, equivalent to our Stock 
 Exchange, is well worth a visit. Stocks and 
 shares are here sold by auction, and bids are 
 given by finger signs. Watching this animated 
 scene from the balcony is very interesting, but 
 what suggests itself to most is the query how 
 these men can stand such a life of excitement ? 
 for the wild gesticulations, the hideous shoutings, 
 the continual uproar and confusion, must do its 
 deadly work upon the nerves of even the 
 strongest. 
 
 However, for the time being, men seem to 
 revel in such an existence, and some make large 
 
96 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 sums of money by it ; and others, of course, may 
 lose. 
 
 Perhaps the sight in Chicago I liked the most 
 was a quiet look at some pictures I found in a 
 gallery along the shores of the Lake Michigan. 
 The collection was not a large one, and some of 
 these were only on loan ; but there were some 
 real gems to delight the eyes of any real lover of 
 the old masters. Amongst the best were " The 
 Jubilee," by A. Van Ostade, in this artist s best 
 style ; " Portrait of Philip II., King of Spain," 
 by Velasquez, bearing the evidences of this 
 great master s wonderful knowledge of anatomy ; 
 " The Immaculate Conception, " by Murillo, which 
 if not genuine is a very fine old copy. Van der 
 Neer, Jacob Ruysdael, Rembrandt, etc., were 
 well represented, and even the great Rubens 
 had two works, one which might be genuine, 
 but the other a matter of speculation ; for any 
 collector of pictures knows that many of those 
 ascribed to the famous artists of a bygone age 
 could not have been painted by them ; for even 
 though they may be good paintings, it is quite 
 certain life is too short for them to have per 
 formed such a prodigious task. We have a 
 painting with a curious history in our collection. 
 For generations this hung in an ancient mansion, 
 
Chicago. 97 
 
 was then transferred to another, and was always 
 called "The Rubens picture." On examining 
 it closely after it came in our possession we 
 thought we traced the name of Rembrandt. 
 In due course this picture was restored, and 
 it turned out to be a genuine Caravaggio : 
 it certainly bears all the peculiarities of this 
 artist s style, and no one seems to dispute its 
 genuineness. 
 
 Then, as regards the opinions of experts, they 
 differ very much, and sometimes even the verdict 
 of one particular expert changes. I know a 
 case where a man paid his three guineas for 
 an opinion, and pasted the written guarantee 
 on the back of the picture. This was sold, 
 and a gentleman into whose possession it came 
 went to this expert, who also dealt in pictures, 
 and offered to sell this to him, stating it was 
 by such an artist. 
 
 <c That artist s brush never touched that 
 picture "; and after descanting on the impossibili 
 ties of the genuineness of the painting, the owner 
 turned the picture round, and showed the man 
 his own guarantee. 
 
 Sometime ago I was discussing the authenticity 
 of a picture in our own National Gallery with a 
 gentleman connected with that institution, and 
 
 7 
 
98 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 at last he admitted that it had been so described 
 by a committee of experts. You cannot help 
 making comparisons, and if you study the works 
 of any particular artist, each picture you behold 
 impels you to draw certain inferences. For 
 instance, if you have seen some of the master 
 pieces of Rubens, say those at Munich or 
 Antwerp, you look with grave suspicion on 
 some of those bearing his name in the Louvre 
 and elsewhere. 
 
 But Chicago has a small, well-preserved 
 collection, whether some of them may be 
 genuine or not. May her wealthy citizens 
 increase their number ! These can easily be 
 obtained by a little looking for. I know of 
 a fine old staircase on the Continent, and 
 on its badly lighted walls hang pictures of 
 great beauty. Some rich Chicagian might secure 
 these. 
 
 Our Sunday in Chicago was a very pleasant one. 
 In the morning we attended Trinity Church, 
 which is situated at the corner of 26th Street, 
 in Michigan Avenue. In connection with this 
 church they have a surprising number of 
 agencies for carrying out the teaching of the Great 
 Teacher. 
 
 A page and a half of the parochial magazine 
 
Chicago. 99 
 
 is taken up with a list of the officials of these 
 various missions, etc.; and one of the most 
 interesting seems to be the Brotherhood of 
 St. Andrew, Chapter No. 24. This Brotherhood 
 sees that the hotels are supplied with framed 
 cards, giving particulars of church services, and a 
 paid secretary has just been appointed. "He 
 is to give the whole of his time to Brotherhood 
 work, and he is ready at all times to help 
 strangers to find homes, the unemployed to find 
 work, the sick to find hospitals, the worthy 
 destitute to find relief." If this is the work of 
 the Brotherhood we wish it " God speed ! " for 
 this is true Christian socialism, which is the 
 only kind honesty and the Scriptures can 
 support. 
 
 The Rector of Trinity is the Rev. John 
 Rouse, M.A. (Oxon.). He is assisted by a 
 curate and lay reader ; and these gentlemen 
 are well supported by the members of their 
 congregation in their efforts to advance all the 
 good works which cluster around this great 
 spiritual centre. 
 
 I cannot tell who preached the sermon, but 
 the text was from the book of Joshua; and as 
 I cannot give the sermon I will give something 
 near its gist in these few lines. 
 
ioo Across tlie Atlantic. 
 
 BLESSINGS AND CURSINGS. 
 
 LONG ages have now intervened 
 
 Since God did these decree, 
 And though to mortal ken it seemed, 
 
 As now, not clear to see 
 How God s decisions were employed, 
 
 Nor yet the reason why, 
 Still His decrees are not destroyed, 
 
 But will all age defy. 
 
 And though we may not fully know 
 How He performs the task, 
 
 He will the utmost wisdom show- 
 Right onward to the last. 
 
 And man will, in God s all-wise way, 
 Receive just what is due, 
 
 According as he lives life s clay, 
 For God is ever true. 
 
 So man may calculate what he 
 
 Will or will not receive, 
 For all the rolling ages see 
 
 Why man should God believe. 
 For He will ever grant the good 
 
 Rich blessings from His store ; 
 And if man lives life as he should 
 
 Heaven s life for evermore. 
 
 The evil ones may, too, depend 
 
 That God will still perform 
 His righteous will, and in the end 
 
 Though long the coming storm 
 Of cursings is in love delayed, 
 
 Yet it will come at last, 
 However much they are afraid 
 
 At its approaching blast. 
 
Chicago. 101 
 
 Thus now, as in the olden days, 
 
 God will His favours show 
 To all the good, and sin repays 
 
 With curses of His woe. 
 So well is it if man e er tries 
 
 To heed Heaven s high behest, 
 And in Jehovah s strength defies 
 
 The sins which souls infest. 
 
 And should the evil of past days 
 
 Before the soul arise, 
 Let angels sing " Behold he prays !" 
 
 Re-echo through the skies. 
 Then in God s holy ways abide 
 
 From good be no more driven, 
 And you shall soon with God reside 
 
 Who has the past forgiven. 
 
 In the evening some of our friends went to 
 hear Mr. Moody preach in the Baptist chapel, 
 who, with a lady to sing solos, attracted a 
 congregation of some three thousand, which 
 packed the building to overflowing. 
 
 We went to the Presbyterian church where 
 "strangers are cordially invited" just across 
 from our hotel. 
 
 The Rev. J. Monro Gibson, of London, had 
 preached here in the morning, and the resident 
 pastor, Dr. MacPherson, gave the sermon in 
 the evening, on " Christ s Philosophy of Help." 
 
 Each Sunday at this church they have a full 
 
102 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 printed programme of the proceedings for that 
 day, and the varied engagements during the 
 week. 
 
 This is a four-paged leaflet, and the front 
 page gives the names of the officials. Under 
 the head of Choir we have four names : soprano, 
 Miss Blondell Pollock (supply for Mrs. Bishop) ; 
 contralto, Mrs. Annie Rommeiss Thacker; 
 tenor, R. T. Howard; bass, J. M. Hubbard. 
 These four singers gave the anthem, " He shall 
 come down like the rain," in good style, and the 
 organist performed his part very satisfactorily. 
 
 There is one thing some people don t like 
 about solo singing, or even any musical per 
 formance in a church or chapel i.e., for fear 
 the real object of worship may be made 
 subservient to a form of entertainment. 
 
 Of course, in these days of religious competi 
 tion, when we have so many sects and isms, 
 means of drawing a congregation are sometimes 
 resorted to which are not eminently in keeping 
 with the highest phase of Christian worship. 
 
 The excuse may be that the times demand 
 it ; but after all the good old way seems to be 
 the best, and where a man s ministrations are 
 backed up with a holy and consistent life 
 there is no need to resort to sensationalism, 
 
CJ tic ago. 103 
 
 outward adornments, elaborate ritual, solo 
 singing, or any other of the many means 
 so frequently used in these degenerate days for 
 the purpose of bringing a congregation together. 
 
 "To worship the Lord in the beauty of 
 holiness " is the great thing, and the one with 
 which Heaven can only be satisfied. In 
 Michigan Avenue are many churches ; but I 
 was sorry to see one of these turned into a 
 furniture store. Why, I know not. It reminds 
 one of some of the fine old churches at Rouen, 
 and elsewhere, now used for houses, manu 
 factories, and even stables. Alas ! how sad ! 
 
 The city of Chicago has many true worship 
 pers of Jehovah ; and all honour to this city, 
 that while erecting her great business houses 
 she has not forgotten her duty to yield the 
 best of her architectural wealth to the glory of 
 the King of kings and Lord of lords. 
 
 " What do you think of Chicago ? " many will 
 ask. 
 
 Surprising city ! who has ever read 
 Of one like thee, living, or long since dead ? 
 For what historian has to us made known 
 A city, which so soon had mighty grown ? 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 "THE WORLD S FAIR. 
 
 Like Sheba s Queen, I too declare, the half was never told, 
 For with a ready-writer s pen, who is there can unfold 
 This high percentage of its worth, the wonders all galore ? 
 For those who see can hardly gauge the vastness of its store. 
 
 OUR five days at Chicago, Sunday excepted 
 of course, meant the greater portion at 
 the World s Fair, situated some eight miles 
 from our hotel. But this short space of time 
 only enabled us to get a general knowledge 
 of the show without studying much of its 
 details ; in fact, one of our party, of a calculat 
 ing turn of mind, made this estimate that if 
 two minutes were spent in viewing each article, 
 and that counting each case as one, the de 
 votion of six hundred days would be required 
 to see the whole. 
 
 This great Exposition is without doubt a 
 gorgeous project, and is the result of an idea 
 generated at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876, 
 and was duly authorised by the Senate in 1890 
 
" The World s Fair" 105 
 
 to celebrate the 4ooth anniversary of the dis 
 covery of America by Christopher Columbus, 
 and its location was decided by Congress ; 
 Chicago receiving in the final ballot nearly 
 50 per cent, more votes than New York, her 
 chief competitor for the honour. 
 
 From the city you can reach the Exposition 
 by the low level or the elevated railways, by 
 steamer or by tram-car. Perhaps the steamer is 
 the most delightful way ; and certainly the most 
 dangerous is the elevated railway, for with the 
 ugly, sharp curves rounding the street corners 
 there is always an element of risk, for should 
 the brake fail to slacken speed, or the driver 
 forget to apply it, the catastrophe would be of 
 a most horrible description. One night we 
 happened to stay a little later, expecting to see 
 the fireworks on the lake ; but the water was 
 too rough, and the display did not take place. 
 On returning we had to experience a terrible 
 crush on this railway, and my good lady had to 
 be protected from it by the exertions of two 
 gentlemen, who, along with myself, managed to 
 perform the task pretty satisfactorily. One of 
 these gentlemen was fortunately a good weight 
 and very strong, and had evidently performed 
 a similar duty before; but after seeing this 
 
106 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 crush, which was certainly bad enough, we 
 cannot be surprised at the terrible accidents 
 resulting at this station, when we hear of the Fair 
 being visited by over 500,000 persons in one day. 
 
 The situation of the Exhibition is admirably 
 adapted for such a venture ; and Jackson Park, 
 with its two miles of lake frontage, and almost 
 600 acres of finely-laid-out grounds, with its ad 
 junct Washington Park with over 350 acres, 
 and the Midway Plaisance with over 50 more, 
 stands almost unrivalled, both for beauty and 
 suitability. 
 
 Now as regards the cost of this grand under 
 taking, it is very hard to arrive at a correct 
 estimate ; for taking the original figures and 
 those now r presented you find a very great 
 difference existing. The former stands at 
 about $18,000,000, whereas the latter exceed 
 this sum by $8,000,000. Then on page 33 of 
 the "Official Guide" you find this estimate of 
 $26,000,000 ; but on page 37 it is stated to be 
 $26,000,000 to $30,000,000. 
 
 In addition to these figures there is an item 
 embracing the expenditure of the general govern 
 ment, foreign countries, and the various states, 
 w r hich is put down at from $3,000,000 to 
 $4,000.000. 
 
" The World s Fair: 107 
 
 On page 33 you also read that $4,000,000 
 had been spent in laying out the park, grounds, 
 etc., before the site was selected for the World s 
 Fair; and lower down it is stated that over 
 $5,000,000 have been spent in beautifying the 
 Exposition grounds. This latter figure is in 
 cluded, I believe, in the general estimate of the 
 total cost ; but I have seen one calculation 
 where this was added to it, and raised it to 
 $39,000,000. However, I think the generally 
 accepted figure is $33,000,000 ; but this does 
 not include the cost of buildings erected by 
 private enterprise nor exhibition expenses 
 and these latter must be very heavy and in 
 addition there will be the enormous sum they 
 must pay in fees to the management, for the 
 allotted space to foreign countries alone reaches 
 1,600,000 square feet of floor area. 
 
 The admission fees are not extortionate, 
 taking into account the magnitude of the show : 
 50 cents for adults, 25 cents for children under 
 twelve years of age ; and free admission is 
 granted to those under six years ; as usual; 
 there will be many of surprising growth below 
 this age. 
 
 The cost of organisation and administration 
 is- put down at $5,000,000, which is included 
 
io8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 in the above estimates ; but after deducting 
 this item from the sum-total, there still remains 
 a vast sum representing cost of buildings 
 and ground improvements ; but yet, although 
 we are quite prepared to admit the vastness 
 and costly beauty of this Exposition, still 
 the impression gradually takes possession of 
 your mind that there are many of our great 
 contractors who would have been willing to 
 produce this magnificent effect for considerably 
 less. I notice a great point is made in com 
 paring the costliness of this Fair with the Paris 
 Exposition, the cost of which is stated to have 
 been $9,500,000 ; and this arouses a little sus 
 picion that the figures of the Chicago enterprise 
 may have been unduly magnified to gratify the 
 American weakness for brag and bluster, which 
 is indeed another phase of the "American 
 Disease/ the germ of which the doctors say is 
 the almighty dollar. If not, the administration 
 has been imposed upon to a much greater 
 extent than what is known ; and an enterprise 
 of such greatness could not be allowed to escape 
 the manipulating energy of that particular class 
 of Americans who, in municipal, political, 
 and every other available way, have an eye to 
 business. 
 
" The World s Fair." 109 
 
 The Exposition authorities have been "ringed," 
 I fear : but, after all, things might have been 
 worse, for they almost lost three-quarters of a 
 million dollars at one go, and, but for the 
 timely action of a firm, one of whose partners 
 I happen to know, they certainly would have 
 been fleeced out of $350,000. The manage 
 ment of an exhibition are sometimes placed in 
 a helpless position, and though they strive their 
 very best cannot help being defrauded. 
 
 The ring system has certainly been tried, 
 and in this one instance was unsuccessful, but 
 whether others succeeded better I do not 
 venture to say, although I have my fears on 
 the subject /.<?., if the cost of matters has been 
 rightly placed before the public. In England 
 this objectionable feature of business life is 
 noticeable. Here is a case in a small way. 
 A friend of mine went to an auction, and was 
 not known to the company present, who had 
 previously formed themselves into a " Ring." 
 
 The auction was on the ticket system, and 
 my friend saved ^2500 from plunder by 
 breaking up the "ring," and his reward was the 
 curses of the speculators, but not the thanks 
 of the gainer. 
 
 Now as regards the "World s Fair," every one 
 
no Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 has a right to form an opinion ; and I for one 
 cannot help thinking that this system has either 
 been extensively practised by contractors and 
 others, or else the management has given to the 
 world an exalted estimate of the expenditure ; 
 for a sum representing over ^6, 5 00,000 sterling 
 is so enormous that your expectations assume 
 greater dimensions than even the magnificent 
 equipments of the " World s Fair " will satisfy. 
 
 The official guide, I regret to say, though 
 signed and authorised under the President s 
 autograph, is not reliable ; for if you find one 
 or more errors your suspicions are aroused as 
 to the accuracy of the more important items. 
 
 Take, for example, the first notice under the 
 head of 
 
 SPECIAL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS." 
 
 " The prices charged for luncheon and meals within the 
 Exposition grounds are reasonable. One may secure a 
 good luncheon for 25 cents ; a good dinner may be 
 obtained in any of the great restaurants at from 35 to 60 
 cents/ etc. etc. 
 
 Now, the members of our party only dined 
 once in the grounds, at one of the "great 
 restaurants," and what was the result? Just this 
 instance will suffice. Two slices of tomato, 
 
" TJie World s Fair 1 1 1 
 
 which sell at giving-away prices in America, 
 20 cents = $5 a pound. Potatoes, 10 cents = 
 for what we eat, to $2 a pound. In fact, when 
 a gust of wind blew a few chips away, one loud 
 voice was heard making a remark like this, " See 
 the shillings flying ! " 
 
 I was told afterwards that the poor fellow 
 who had spent his dollars in erecting this 
 Restauration would lose money. Bosh ! The 
 man must make 1000 per cent, at least on his 
 investment. 
 
 Now take another falsification. It is called 
 "The Beauty Show." In the index you are 
 referred to page 22, and read: 
 
 "INTERNATIONAL DRESS AND COSTUME EXIIIIUT." 
 
 " This attraction comprises between forty and fifty 
 living representatives of different nationalities, races, 
 and types, each clad in native costume. All are young 
 women selected for their personal beauty. Expensive 
 and beautiful gowns are part of the exhibition. Ad 
 mission 25 cents." 
 
 In connection with this so-called " Congress 
 of Beauty," the management have certainly 
 made one true statement i.e., "Admission 25 
 cents." 
 
 This we paid ; but I venture to affirm that 
 
U2 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 some of these women have never seen the 
 countries from which they are supposed to 
 have been brought. Certainly we will not 
 make personal allusion in the way of describing 
 the various impositions ; but one girl had been 
 a servant in Chicago, and did not belong to 
 the country she represented ; another had been 
 brought from a shop in New York ; but the 
 worst thing of all was the charge one of our 
 friends saw afterwards in a Chicago paper, 
 stating that one of the beautiful women was 
 a fair-faced boy. I have read an article in 
 one American paper, "Women made Beautiful, 
 how dimples are produced, wrinkles removed, 
 and lines of care eradicated," proving that 
 electricity can improve on nature. Well, sur 
 gery assisted by the electric current, removing 
 elliptical sections of flesh, and its antiseptic 
 spraying, may do all that it claims ; if so, the 
 Exhibition management ought to have sent a 
 good percentage of their carefully selected 
 beauties to have undergone this course of treat 
 ment before the performance started. What 
 English and American beautiful women will 
 think of the show I know not ; but one of the 
 writers in an American paper seems to have 
 been well qualified to have acted as a judge ; 
 
" The World s Fair" 1 1 3 
 
 and well would it have been for the credit 
 of the Exposition management had they left 
 the selection of the beauties with such an 
 expert i.e., if any could have been induced 
 to attend. Here is the small sketch, and, 
 following, I give my own opinion of the 
 " Beauty Show." 
 
 " ENGLAND S GREATEST BEAUTY. 
 
 " Lady Londonderry is the flower and crown of Anglo- 
 Saxon beauty. Tall, slim, dazzlingly fair, with every 
 feature perfectly modelled, she is the highest result of 
 noble Norman blood. Her maiden name was Lady 
 Theresa Helen Talbot, daughter of the nineteenth Earl 
 of Shrewsbury, a family as old as the Conquest. In 
 1875 s ^ e married Viscount Castlereagh, eldest son of 
 the fifth Marquis of Londonderry, who succeeded to the 
 title in 1884. Lady Londonderry s beauty differs from 
 the American type. It is more calm, less vivacious, 
 more regular and statuesque, but less bewitching and 
 beguiling." 
 
 There is no questioning the beauty of many 
 of our British aristocracy and our women 
 belonging to the humbler classes ; and America 
 can claim for many of her women very justly 
 the title of beautiful. Other nations have also 
 women whose facial attractions are pre-eminently 
 pleasing to look upon. The field is a large 
 
 8 
 
T 14 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 one, but who made the selection for the 
 World s Fair ? 
 
 THE BEAUTY SHOW. 
 
 The Beauty Congress was a scene. 
 A farce-like play, if I may judge ; 
 The greatest sell here to be seen 
 Hoax ! Deception ! Humbug ! Fudge ! 
 
 Where was the beauty, polish, grace, 
 Expectants looked for in this place ? 
 Where were the well-curved features, eyes, 
 The lovely bloom which women prize ? 
 
 Where could you find the curling lip, 
 The dimpled cheek, which poets clip 
 Their pen so oft to note ? And where 
 Could you find one fair claim to fair ? 
 
 Not in the World s Great Beauty Show, 
 For there the beauties did not go ; 
 For paltry bribes would not inspire 
 Real beauty to go there for hire. 
 
 But, giving all the due respect 
 To those who did these types select, 
 I don t admire their care or taste, 
 For time and money are a waste 
 
 Spent seeing this their Beauty Show. 
 For I declare that I can go 
 In any town, and without pay 
 See nicer ladies any day ! 
 
 But, after all, facial beauty is not everything : 
 the wise man said, "Favour is deceitful, and 
 beauty is vain." 
 
" The World s Fair" 1 1 5 
 
 There is the beauty of goodness, love, and 
 kindness, which is of far nobler worth; and 
 these bright adornments of unselfishness give 
 to woman that which the truest of manly hearts 
 will always panegyrise. Here is a specimen of 
 one who did not possess "beauty," and yet 
 was 
 
 "A BEAUTIFUL WOMAN. 
 
 The story is told of a famous lady who once reigned 
 in Paris society that she was so very homely that her 
 another said one day, My poor child, you are too ugly 
 for any one ever to fall in love with you. 3 From this 
 time the young lady began to bs very kind to the 
 pauper children of the village, to the servants of the 
 household, and even to the birds that hopped about 
 the garden walks. She was always distressed if she 
 happened to be unable to render a service. This good 
 will toward everybody made her the idol of the city- 
 Though her complexion was sallow, her grey eyes small 
 and sunken, yet she held in devotion to her the greatest 
 men of her time. Her unselfish interest in others made 
 her, it is said, perfectly irresistible. People could not 
 help loving her, because she first loved them. Love 
 makes the truest beauty, after all. It is beauty, too, 
 that grows more beautiful as time runs on and age 
 advances." 
 
 Now, having said this much against the work 
 of the council of administration, let us yield 
 them all the honour and credit due for carrying 
 out, on the whole, so successfully the gigantic 
 
n 6 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 undertaking intrusted to their charge ; for few 
 beholders will fail to recognise the greatness 
 of the work, and the successful completion of 
 a huge enterprise like this " World s Fair," 
 presenting so many features of architectural 
 splendour, landscape effectiveness, artistic dis 
 plays, wonderful invention, gorgeous panoramas, 
 glorious illuminations, and .startling attractions, 
 all combining to make a scene the like of 
 which this century has never known, and 
 perhaps one the dazzled eyes of humanity 
 has never beholden ; for, be it known to all 
 men, that whatever the financial result of this 
 huge scheme may be, this unequalled achieve 
 ment is, as an exhibition, a triumphant success. 
 We will now describe briefly some of its 
 striking features. On arriving, you see the 
 Intramural Electric Elevated Railway ; and this 
 is not the toy you conjectured it to be, for 
 it has a run in the grounds extending about 
 three miles. The exact total length of the 
 double track is six-and-a-quarter miles. Each 
 train makes the round trip in thirty-five minutes, 
 with nineteen stoppages. The train, it is 
 stated, cannot be de-railed, and collisions are 
 impossible through a perfect block signal system, 
 which works automatically. Scientific men, 
 
"T/ie World s Fair." 117 
 
 who understand all about multipolar railway 
 generators, specially designed motors for se 
 curing high acceleration, improved air brakes, 
 current-carrying conductors, would study with 
 interest the arrangements for working this novel 
 railway, and probably gaze with satisfaction at 
 "the largest dynamo electric machine," or 
 electric generator, in this great electrical 
 country. This supplies 3000 horse-power, cost 
 $100,000, and weighs 192 tons. The armature 
 shaft weighs 65 tons, and is 24 in. in diameter. 
 The rolling stock consists of eighteen trains, 
 of four open cars 47 ft. long, and each capable 
 of seating ninety-six people. This line is very 
 convenient, and you are informed how best 
 to reach the following Exposition Buildings : 
 
 PASSENGERS WILL LEAVE INTRAMURAL TRAINS AT 
 "South Loop" for Intramural Power House, 
 
 Agricultural Building, ! Intramural Offices, 
 
 Casino, "Colonnade" for 
 
 Convent of La Rabida, Machinery Hall, 
 
 Krupp Exhibit, Agricultural Building, 
 
 Indian School, , Stock Pavilion, 
 Steamboat Pier, Agricultural Imp. Exhibit, 
 
 Shoe and Leather Building. j windmill Exhibit, 
 
 " Forestry " for ; Outside Exhibit of Germany, 
 
 i White Horse Inn. 
 Forestry Building, 
 
 Anthropological Building, " Administration " for 
 
 Dairy Building, Railway Terminals, 
 
 French Colonies Exhibit, Administration Building, 
 
 Cliff-Dwellers Exhibit, Mines Building, 
 
Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Electricity Building, 
 Manufacturers Building, 
 Machinery Hall, 
 Electric Fountains. 
 
 "Chicago Junction" for 
 
 Transportation Building, 
 and CHICAGO, via 
 South Side Rapid Transit 
 Elevated Railwa}-. 
 
 " 62nd Street " for 
 
 Service Building, 
 Choral Building-, 
 Horticultural Building, 
 Wooded Island, 
 Police Station. 
 
 "Midway* for 
 
 Midway Plaisance, 
 Woman s Building, 
 Illinois State Building, 
 Public Comfort, 
 California State Building, 
 Indiana State Building, 
 Illinois Central Express 
 trains to Van Buren Street. 
 
 "57th Street" for 
 
 Art Galleries, 
 
 . Esquimaux Village, 
 Washington State Building, 
 i S. Dakota State Building, 
 Minnesota State Building, 
 Kansas State Building, 
 Nebraska State Building. 
 N. Dakota State Building. 
 
 "Mount Vernon" for 
 
 Virginia State Building, 
 New Jersey State Building, 
 Vermont State Building, 
 Maine State Building, 
 Iowa State Building, 
 Massachusetts State Building, 
 Connecticut State Building, 
 Art Building, 
 French Building. 
 
 "North Loop" for 
 
 Fisheries Building, 
 Government Building, 
 Naval Exhibit (Battle Ship), 
 Foreign Buildings, 
 Manufacturers Building, 
 Life-Saving Station, 
 Electric Launches, 
 Lighthouse Exhibit, 
 Battle Ship. 
 
 Another wonderful invention is "The Ferris 
 Wheel," named after its designer and maker. 
 
 This revolves round an axle of 33 in. diameter, 
 45 ft. long, and 56 tons weight. The wheel is 
 really two wheels, 28 J ft. apart ; and suspended 
 between these there are thirty-six passenger cars, 
 and the power is obtained from two 30 in. 
 cylinder engines with 4 ft. stroke, and each 
 possessing 2000 horse-power. The machinery 
 
"The World s Fair." 119 
 
 is below the ground surface, and the entire 
 plant is duplicated a very wise arrangement. 
 
 The entire cost is put down as $400,000. 
 
 The effect at night, with the three thousand 
 incandescent lights within globes of various 
 colours, is a very pretty sight. 
 
 The wheel is 250 ft. in diameter, and the 
 tour, which can be taken by over one thousand 
 persons at once, occupies about twenty minutes. 
 You have from its apex a fine bird s-eye view 
 of the Exhibition buildings and the lake and 
 surrounding country for many miles. 
 
 Those who were willing to be revolved 256 ft. 
 high say the thing was very nice ; and it is 
 stated that fully 95 per cent, of visitors to the 
 Fair patronised the " Ferris Wheel." 
 
 Well, if we say 50 per cent., this predicted 
 failure will prove a very remunerative success ; 
 for according to the official figures for the three 
 months ending with July, the paid admissions to 
 the Fair numbered 6,487,240 ; now take half of 
 this as representing the number of Ferris Wheel 
 patronisers, and you have 3,243,620: this number 
 at 50 cents each for the two revolutions, you 
 have $1,621,810, four times the entire cost of 
 this structure. 
 
 True, this was a venture in an unexplored field, 
 
120 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 and some justification there might be for those 
 cynics who tried to prove the impossibility of 
 an enormous weight i.e., 600,000 Ibs. to 
 revolve with safety. But its originator was 
 sanguine of success, and the capital necessary 
 was subscribed ! $25,000 was expended in plans 
 and preliminary expenses, and the mammoth 
 wheel, which was constructed in parts at various 
 foundries, was put together without a flaw, 
 proving the accuracy of the calculations. Its 
 mechanical success was therefore perfect, and 
 since the receipt of so much patronage it has 
 been described as a " financial Bonanza" 
 
 Then the three last months have to come, 
 and after the closing of " the White City " the 
 AVheel will, there or elsewhere, be like the Eiffel 
 Tower a permanent source of money-making. 
 It was a bold and novel idea, carried out with 
 energy against great prejudice. So we offer our 
 hearty congratulations to Mr. G. W. G. Ferris, 
 engineer and bridge -builder of Pittsburg, and 
 hope he may live long to enjoy the result of his 
 enterprise. 
 
 There are plenty of other amusing elements 
 inside or just out of the World s Fair. Buffalo 
 Bill, with his wild west, military tournaments, 
 grand concerts in the great Choral Hall, holding 
 
"77*? World s Fair." 121 
 
 in its auditorium 6500, and a stage capable of 
 holding another 2500. Then in the Midway 
 Plaisance there are amusements ; but some of 
 these are characterised by the President of the 
 Society for the Suppression of Vice as the worst 
 violations of decency and virtue he ever heard of : 
 vile dens, revolting performances, etc. This is 
 rather strong, so it is a good job, if true, we did 
 not visit them. 
 
 Another great attraction later on will be the 
 exhibition of horses and cattle; the entries closed 
 about the middle of August, and the arrivals 
 were expected shortly after. I noticed that 1205 
 horses were to be shown, and I have come across 
 the interesting information that " America s First 
 Horse" was brought to this continent in 1518. 
 Now, there are in the United States alone 
 14,056,750, valued at $941,000,000. The 
 stallion Ormonde, said to have been purchased 
 by its American owner for $150,000, which was 
 shipped from England, has landed in New York ; 
 so he will make one more. The papers were 
 eloquent upon his arrival, and even the poets 
 have been called forth to sing his praises. 
 
 It is stated he travels with six Saratoga trunks, 
 which are filled with his clothing. We wonder 
 if he will be brought to the Fair. 
 
122 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 However, we had plenty to look at, al 
 though the horses, cattle, and sheep were 
 absent. 
 
 The first day we were received by Sir Henry 
 Trueman Wood, M.A., the Secretary of the Arts 
 Society, and in the afternoon were entertained to 
 tea in Victoria House, the British building on 
 the lake shore, which the authorities describe as 
 a beautiful structure, and which is intended to 
 accommodate the guests of the British Com 
 mission. 
 
 This English-like home has been furnished 
 by Messrs. Johnstone, Norman, & Co., of 67, 
 New Bond Street, London, under the advice and 
 personal direction of Mr. Thomas F. Norman. 
 Stained-glass windows, silken fabrics, stoves, em 
 bossed leather, carpets, etc., are of English make; 
 and the furnishers tender a grateful compliment 
 to sundry firms mentioned in the souvenir their 
 courteous representative kindly handed me, and 
 which gives a clear description of the interior 
 embellishment of Victoria House. The pictures, 
 some of which are by the old masters, and the 
 various objetstTart in the several apartments, are 
 from the collection of Mr. J. Jehnhiiuser, 68, 
 New Bond Street, London. There was one thing 
 that even the learned could not agree about, and 
 
" The World s Fair" 123 
 
 that was the source from which the motto over one 
 of the fireplaces came : 
 
 " Babble not o ermuch, my friend, if thou wouldst be 
 
 called wise : 
 To speak, or prate, or use much talk engenders many 
 
 lyes." 
 
 The names of three poets were mentioned 
 Shakespeare, Chaucer, and Bacon by three 
 different men of known ability. 
 
 Let some more learned man say whose these lines may be, 
 For learned ones with us could not their source decree. 
 
 Victoria House, as the reader will understand, 
 was named after our beloved Queen, and is what 
 our architects would call a half-timbered house 
 of the sixteenth century. 
 
 The interior adornments, such as ceilings 
 and furniture, are copies of what we find in 
 many of the old houses in the British Isles. 
 One ceiling is copied from Haddon Hall, one 
 from Plas Mawr, and another from Crewe Hall. 
 Aston Hall, Exeter Museum, Banbury Castle, 
 etc., are represented by reproductions of furni 
 ture, tapestry, etc. 
 
 The Victoria House, though not such an 
 imposing structure as the buildings erected by 
 some of the foreign countries which have come 
 prominently forward in connection with this 
 
124 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 exhibition, still is quite in keeping with English 
 notions of propriety, and had the honour of being 
 among the few buildings completely finished on 
 the opening day, May ist. 
 
 Near this English representative home we 
 see in the lake a full-sized model of an American 
 battle-ship, 348 ft. long by 39 ft. 3 in., which 
 gives you the impression of the genuine article, 
 Then in the South Pond is the correct facsimile 
 of the Viking ship one thousand years old, the 
 original of which we have seen at Christiania. 
 This model was brought over the seas by hardy 
 Norwegian sailors. 
 
 The State Buildings are very fine, and those of 
 seventeen states I reckon to have cost nearly 
 $1,000,000. These states have appropriated for 
 Exhibition purposes, I find, $2,700,000. It is 
 natural Illinois, in which Chicago is situated, 
 should be the largest subscriber, $800,000 ; her 
 building costing $250,000 ; but the building 
 which struck me as the most original was that of 
 Washington. This was built of wood, at a cost 
 of $100,000, and looked very handsome. The 
 timber had been brought from the region of Puget 
 Sound, and the foundations consisted of several 
 tiers of great blocks of oak, which gave the struc 
 ture a very substantial appearance. Then we have 
 
"The World s Fair" 125 
 
 the foreign buildings, which with those of the 
 States would number forty-five or fifty ; and 
 though each has its special features and de 
 serves mentioning, still we shall be compelled to 
 confine our brief notice to the record of a few 
 impressions of the great Exhibition proper, and 
 leave these buildings and the vast multitude of 
 smaller ones towns, villages, panoramas, shows, 
 and private enterprises to other pens, for really 
 this Exhibition is of such amazing compre 
 hensiveness that its magnitude grows and its 
 extensiveness increases when you come to travel 
 over again, in thought, the miles you did in the 
 hot, broiling sunshine. Many of the English 
 and American newspapers have grossly misre 
 presented this great commemorative enterprise, 
 some through wrong information, and some of 
 the American ones, I fear, through uncontrollable 
 jealousy, the offspring of an envious feeling that 
 Chicago should have been the selected spot in a 
 project which has proved to be that city s best 
 and most far-reaching advertisement ; and she 
 richly deserves it, for her wealthy sons raised 
 $5,000,000, and the city pledged itself to increase 
 this to $10,000,000, to be expended in behalf of 
 the Fair. 
 
 Some of the American papers have not 
 
126 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 grasped the idea that this " Greatest Show on 
 Earth " belongs to the whole country, and is 
 not a purely local exhibition ; and it seems a 
 question hard to understand, how any good 
 citizen of the State should conjecture this 
 narrow-minded idea. However, such is the 
 case, and " The World s Fair " may count its 
 greatest enemies " amongst those of its own 
 household," who, for the time being, have 
 chosen the profession of Ananias. Here are 
 particulars of some of the main buildings of 
 what the Act of Congress describes as the 
 " International Exhibition of Arts, Industries, 
 Manufactures, and the Products of the Soil, 
 Mine and Sea, to celebrate the Four Hundredth 
 Anniversary of the Discovery of America by 
 Christopher Columbus." 
 
 Size in Feet. I Cost in Dollars. 
 
 
 960 x 265 
 
 Transportation Building. 
 
 370,000 
 
 365 x 165 
 
 Fisheries Building. 
 
 224,000 
 
 690 x 345 
 
 Building of Electricity. 
 
 401.000 
 
 528 x 208 
 
 Palace of Fine Arts. 
 
 670,000 
 
 4i5 x 345 
 
 Federal Building. 
 
 400,000 
 
 998 x 250 
 
 Horticultural Building. 
 
 325,000 
 
 800 x 500 
 
 Agricultural Building. 
 
 618,000 
 
 700 x~35o 
 
 Mines and Mining. 
 
 265,000 
 
 846 x 492 
 
 Palace of Mechanical Arts. 
 
 1,285,000 
 
 1687 x 787 
 
 Manufactures Building. 
 
 1,500,000 
 
 386 x 199 
 
 Woman s Building. 
 
 138.000 
 
 262 x 262 
 
 Administration Building. 
 
 435! 
 
 528 x 208 
 
 Palace of Forestry. 
 
 100,000 
 
"The World s Fair: 127 
 
 These figures may not exactly correspond 
 with the information contained in some of the 
 books relating to the Exhibition for, to give just 
 one instance, the cost of the Administrative 
 Building in one of these is put down at 
 $1,500,000; but on the whole I think they will 
 be found fairly reliable. 
 
 The last of these buildings is probably the 
 most unique of the lot, and is a decided 
 contrast to the others. Its construction gives 
 you the impression of a vast rustic summer- 
 house, with its verandah and bark-covered roof. 
 The pillars supporting this verandah are the 
 trunks of trees, placed three together, the main 
 ones being on the average about seventeen 
 inches in diameter. 
 
 Then each pillar is surmounted by a flag 
 staff, the trade would term a " ricker," with its 
 streamer floating therefrom. The interior pre 
 sents to you a selection of the woods of various 
 nations, and naturally you find the timber 
 specimens of the States in great profusion. 
 Some samples of polished wood here displayed 
 would make the manufacturers of artistic 
 furniture open their longing eyes, and probably 
 show to them many happy blendings. The 
 samples of bird s eye maple, figured birch, 
 
128 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 white pine, etc., in their highly polished state, 
 look first-class ; but the wood that I considered 
 took the palm was a piece of richly figured 
 poplar, and if this is found of the same high 
 quality in any abundance, it ought soon to find 
 its way, more extensively than at present, in our 
 English home decorations. 
 
 Then you have the heavier lumber trade, with 
 its multitudinous kinds of building timber, in the 
 rough and manufactured state, presented here in 
 all its might and majesty. By some means its 
 representatives have actually secured "Glad 
 stone s axe," that weapon of the great tree- 
 destroyer, which, after doing its exhibition duty, 
 will be taken charge of by "The Lumber 
 Trades Association," to be kept as a memento 
 of the "Grand Old Man," whose work has 
 perhaps produced greater financial results than 
 those obtained by quite a host of professional 
 woodcutters ; for those little chips sold at 
 bazaars, and by speculators, must have yielded 
 a mine of wealth ; and the scatterings from one 
 tree produced more than many a great tree 
 hewn down in these boundless forests repre 
 sented. See the little chips on their velvety 
 cushions within their gold frames in many 
 English houses, which, in many cases, receive 
 
" The World s Fair." 129 
 
 more adoration than saintly relics ; whereas 
 the backwoodsman fells the giants of the 
 forest, and his chips, though coming from the 
 mightiest of trees, lie around him unreverenced 
 to rot upon the surface of the earth. Some of 
 these great monarchs of the forest are of 
 startling dimensions. One gentleman, upon 
 whose word I can rely, assures me that he 
 measured one in California with a girth of 
 147 ft., and diameter 49 ft. a distance above- 
 ground. What should we think in England of 
 trees with bark 48 in. thick, or one with a berl 
 20 ft. x 10 ft, 200 ft. from the ground? See 
 the mammoth redwood plank in this forestry 
 section, which measures 16 ft. 5 in. wide, and 
 12 ft. 9 in. long by 5 in. thick, cut from a 
 tree 300 ft. high, 28 ft. from the butt. This 
 great tree from which the plank was hewn was 
 35 ft. in diameter, and supposed to have 
 reached the patriarchal age of 1500 years. 
 
 This is exhibited by a firm of oil merchants, 
 who have polished it to perfection with their 
 " hard oil finish." 
 
 Then see the California red tree this country 
 has made such a sacrifice to place in its special 
 section, and which cost $10,475 f r shipping 
 expenses, etc. It has been cut in sections and 
 
 9 
 
130 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 again placed together. Its diameter is 26 ft., 
 and you wander in its cave-like interior and 
 gaze with wonder at this section of a tree, the 
 total height of which was at least 300 ft. 
 
 Then you have interesting employment in 
 noticing the stages of growth in the various 
 cross-cut blocks of huge trees. Here is a little 
 item from one whose circles show it to be 
 875 years old. When 14 ft. in diameter the 
 yearly register is less than -jV tn f an mcn \ 
 but when it assumes double this diameter the 
 growth is about of an inch. Then you have 
 the amusing department in the comical figures 
 some planks of a natural decorative character 
 reveal : in one you see the " Drum Major," on 
 another, "Prize Fighters," "The Old Man," 
 etc., etc. 
 
 You also see a perfectly clean board 16 ft. x 
 6 ft. without a single flaw, a grand specimen of 
 what can be cut from trees which may be 
 numbered by hundreds of thousands, if not 
 by hundreds of millions. Then see the vast 
 array of dyewoods, barks, abnormal woody 
 products, wood pulp, wood-made paper, wooden 
 ware, mosses, gums, vegetable substances for 
 many purposes, and you leave this forestry of 
 wealth, with its shingles, floorings, and other 
 
" The World s Fair" 131 
 
 worked timber, and you stand on the shore of 
 Lake Michigan, and confess that though you 
 knew much about timber, its varieties and its 
 uses, you know more than before inspecting this, 
 the greatest display of forestry production the 
 world has perhaps ever seen, for it presents to 
 the interested a completeness of varied glory 
 delightful to look upon. 
 
 Well may this greatest Exhibition of its kind 
 stand on the shores of the lake supposed to 
 contain the largest body of fresh water in the 
 world like two giant spirits embracing each 
 other. 
 
 The woods of many lands you have in plenty found, 
 Where mighty trees in unknown solitude abound ; 
 Well, some a hundred feet and some at least quite three 
 Towering upward heavenwards with silent majesty. 
 
 The next great building in our brief category 
 is the Transportation Building, and this ought 
 not to have been missed by those who desire 
 to see the ramifications of modern mechanical 
 science in her latest achievements, from the 
 tiny conveyances for the transportation of 
 infants to the great contrivances for moving 
 the heaviest weights. We have here a be 
 wildering collection of all shapes and kinds of 
 
132 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 machines and conveyances. Cyclists will no 
 doubt have made pilgrimages to this building in 
 thousands, for their collection of transportation 
 machines may, without exaggeration, be desig 
 nated legion. In fact, you find yourself in 
 a kind of maze where pneumatic and other 
 matics meet you at every turn, and you cannot 
 decide which is the right one. " The top notch 
 of progress," by which one man rode from his 
 own funeral," The Rambler," with its special 
 frame, bearings, sprocket, valves, and tire, 
 " The Crypto-geared ordinary," with its spokes 
 of Swedish swaged steel, detachable rear wheel, 
 T handles and adjustable ball steering ; or the 
 " Sunol full roadster," of the improved diamond 
 pattern, with positively dust-resisting, oil-retain 
 ing bearings, anti-friction roller chain, and 
 brake of the direct plunger pattern ; or the 
 utterly confounding number of others which 
 tell of their superiority in story-like enchanting 
 fashion, with multitudes of testimonials to prove 
 conclusively that they are the best, the safest, 
 and the most reliable. 
 
 Wheelmen of the world, here is your oppor 
 tunity : such a variety of cycle exhibits never 
 before grouped together, and which embrace 
 all kinds, shapes, and makes, presenting the 
 
u 77/6 World s Fair" 133 
 
 very latest and the very best. Some firms have 
 gone to a fabulous expense in fitting up elaborate 
 booths for their display; one has a brass and 
 bronze inclosure, and another is fitted up in 
 solid mahogany, in fact, the machines are 
 so highly silvered, and are set off by such 
 surroundings, that you can almost imagine 
 yourselves entering a well-fitted, well-stocked 
 silversmith s establishment. Then you have 
 fine carriages, and in this department America 
 does not stand alone, for France and other 
 countries are well to the fore with Gee and 
 other spring conveyances, well upholstered, 
 splendidly finished, and arranged for one or 
 more horses. 
 
 In the locomotive exhibit we have railway 
 engines and cars, old and new, which fully 
 represent the growth and development of this 
 section of transportation, in which so much of 
 the wealth of nations is invested. I have seen 
 it stated somewhere that the railroads of the 
 present day have cost from ^5, 000,000,000 to 
 ^6,000,000,000, which, it is said, represents 
 one-tenth of the wealth of the countries where 
 they exist ; and probably this amount is far 
 more than all the available money existing in 
 those nations. What a mighty advance this is 
 
134 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 since the days of George Stephenson and his 
 contemporaries, and how this is demonstrated 
 by the exhibits here ! The Great Western 
 Railway Company of England has a fine engine, 
 " Lord of the Isles." The London and North- 
 Western Railway Company is represented by 
 an engine, " Queen Empress," and two carriages. 
 Just opposite to these is the complete train of 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway ; and as most of 
 my readers will have seen the English trains 
 so frequently and not the Canadian, I will give 
 a few particulars of the latter. 
 
 This company gives an actual representation 
 of their Canadian Pacific Standard Train, and 
 not one just made for Exhibition purposes. 
 Upon the souvenir presented you have the 
 horizontal and vertical sections of the train 
 given, and also full detailed measurements. 
 The train is vestibuled throughout, and measures 
 400 ft. in length, 10 ft. 3^ in. in width, and 
 1 4 ft. 8 in. in height. The cars are (ist-class) 
 64 ft. 4 in. in length, weigh 65,300 lb., and seat 
 fifty-six passengers. The 2nd-class car, 64 ft. 
 4 in. long, is a convertible sleeper, and carries 
 sixty-four passengers. The " Savoy " dining car 
 is 70 ft. 10 in. in length, 85,000 lb. weight, seats 
 thirty people. The tables and seats on one 
 
"Tlie World s Fair :" 135 
 
 side are arranged for four, and on the other 
 two persons. The kitchen and pantry are 
 most conveniently fitted according to modern 
 requirements. 
 
 The sleeper " Satsuma " is 77 ft. 2 in. long, 
 94,000 Ib. weight, and has six wheels ; and 
 bath-rooms, state-room, and smoke-room are all 
 that could be desired. 
 
 The baggage car is 63 ft. 8 in. long, weighs 
 59,600 Ib. The locomotive has ten wheels, 
 and with tender measures 59 ft. 8 in. ; weight 
 when loaded 213,000 Ib. The "drivers" are 
 69 in. diameter, cylinders 19 in., with 24 in. 
 stroke. Tender capacity three thousand gallons. 
 This engine is capable of taking a train of ten 
 cars =420 gross tons at the rate of sixty miles 
 per hour. 
 
 The train can be heated with steam through 
 out, and is lighted with electricity. 
 
 The whole of this finely upholstered, mag 
 nificently equipped train, the exterior of which 
 is constructed in Honduras mahogany, was 
 built at the Company s works, Montreal. 
 
 Well done, Canada ! When will England 
 appreciate thee as she ought ? May thy beauti 
 ful trains long run from ocean to ocean, and thy 
 greatness and prosperity continue to increase. 
 
136 Across tlie Atlantic. 
 
 Now passing to ocean transportation, England 
 is well to the front, and her mercantile and 
 less peaceful navy are both well displayed by a 
 great number of models. 
 
 It is stated that the P. & O. steamship exhibit 
 alone consists of two hundred models of vessels 
 which have been, or are now, in use by this 
 company. 
 
 The past history of this huge ocean concern 
 is sketched out from its commencement in 1837, 
 when it had only two small boats ; and now her 
 fleet is worth some ,7,000,000, and many of 
 her ships rank as armed cruisers. 
 
 The P. & O. have reduced their freight 
 charges between Bombay and London, which 
 in 1837 were $150 a ton, to $1*75 in 1893 so 
 the official Exposition guide states. 
 
 In the American section where there are 
 some fifty specimens of locomotive engines, one 
 weighing 195,000 Ib. we have also displayed 
 what will show the lady who is said to rule the 
 waves that she will have a formidable com 
 petitor, just emerging from infancy, but with 
 very lofty aspirations ; for she here displays, in 
 her exhibition attire, the evidences of a rapid 
 development. We pass over her models of 
 steam craft and her small boats, along with all 
 
"The World s Fair" 137 
 
 those old-fashioned traces of what has been, 
 and gaze at that overpowering sight, dwarfing 
 all others around i.e., a full section of one of 
 the transatlantic steamships she is now con 
 structing at Philadelphia. 
 
 This section from the centre of the ship is 
 60 ft. long, and four stories high, showing 
 exactly the interior and exterior of this por 
 tion of a modern "liner." It is Jth of the 
 entire ship, and is fitted in the "up to date" 
 fashion. 
 
 It has been an expensive undertaking for 
 some one whether the builders, owners, or the 
 Government, 1 do not know but it is a fine 
 advertisement for "the xVmerican Line," and 
 will be much appreciated by the American 
 people, who are certainly very loyal to 
 their country, and especially to their home 
 industries. 
 
 Now, according to the latest information, this 
 line has two steamers, The Paris and The New 
 York, 10,800 tons, which were built in England, 
 and are two out of the fourteen steamers afloat 
 over 8,000 tons register. 
 
 Nine of the fourteen are British, and the other 
 three belong to other nationalities, so England 
 has still the premier position. Then, taking the 
 
138 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 whole steamers afloat above a certain tonnage 
 at 1 2,801, England possesses 5694. Then, if you 
 look at the vast army of British ships valued at 
 ;2 20,000,000, they would, if placed end to 
 end, reach 570 miles. 
 
 Such are facts stated by Lloyd s French 
 Register; so from this it would appear that the 
 British nation holds a majestic position. But 
 when we see the American nation coming 
 forward with her actualities and her plans of 
 future enterprise, we begin to wonder whether 
 the supremacy of our transatlantic carrying trade 
 will be long upheld, or whether the struggle 
 will be a long and profitless encounter between 
 two great powers, actuated by a friendly desire 
 to cut each other s throats. Well, this part of 
 our passenger transportation business is not a 
 very paying concern, so travellers may expect 
 that competition will, in the next few years, give 
 them every obtainable advantage. This will 
 virtually be a struggle of the American Govern 
 ment with our private companies ; for our 
 authorities will not put an extra penny on the 
 income tax, or even a small tariff on American 
 goods, to make the encounter a profitable one for 
 our steamship combinations; for England and 
 America are two different nations, and look at 
 
"The World s Fair? 139 
 
 the same things through spectacles of opposite 
 construction. 
 
 Now, to give an instance of this : passing to 
 the agricultural section, where are exhibited all 
 kinds of machinery for fanners use, and ploughs 
 made of chilled iron, and brightened to such 
 an extent that it seems a pity to soil them, 
 where also you behold the products of the earth 
 in endless profusion, you come to one attrac 
 tive stand, where you see refreshments served, 
 and you enter, are supplied with a delicious 
 dish, handed a bright little book, and a card 
 with three chubby little girls faces thereon, and 
 read beneath, " We eat Quaker oats." On the 
 other side of this you have the trade mark, " A 
 Quaker," in the style of dress worn by those of 
 this persuasion in a bygone age. Then you 
 have these " Quaker oats " glorified in true 
 American style, and after you have gratuitously 
 partaken of these well cooked and well creamed, 
 you feel inclined to say ditto to all you read, 
 and give in return this mention of American 
 cereal foods, if not in lieu of payment, in the 
 shape of a thankoffering advertisement. But to 
 the point : on page 7 of the book presented, 
 which contains recipes for cakes, etc., made 
 from some forty products of oats, wheat, corn 
 
140 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 barley, rye of great variety, and buckwheat, and 
 also offers handsome prizes for others, you have 
 the following patriotic effusion : 
 
 AT THE WORLD S FAIR -1893. 
 
 " We take great pride in our Exhibit in the Gallery of 
 the Agricultural Building as being wholly the work of 
 American brains and hands. Every part of our Exhibit, 
 to its smallest details, is made from special designs by 
 American artists, by American mechanics, from American 
 material. The oak grew in American forests, the brass, 
 oniamental glass, terra-cotta vases, and china are from 
 American factories ; the dresses of the attendants from 
 American looms ; the grain (corn, wheat, rye, oats, and 
 barley) used in decoration, from American farms; and 
 America s Cereal Foods (the greatest variety made in 
 the world) are served to the world on American plates 
 and saucers by American women/ 
 
 Bravo, America ! you are quite right. Alas, 
 our old English patriotism has passed from us, 
 and we now in our slumbers are even inclined 
 to dream that we have somewhere the label 
 attached to our own persons, "Made in Germany, 
 or somewhere else foreign to our own land. 
 
 In the Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building, 
 the mammoth erection of the Exposition, I was 
 very gratified to see two very successful Cheshire 
 firms side by side. 
 
 Messrs. Brunner, Mond & Co., of Winnington, 
 
"T/ie World s Fair" 141 
 
 Northwich, whose rapid extensions are almost in 
 keeping with the rise and progress of the great 
 city of Chicago. This great alkali firm, with its 
 special patented process and mouth-watering 
 dividends, sounds more like the ideal American 
 industry than one carried on in the old country, 
 where it stands prominently out as an oasis in 
 the desert. The following is the chemical 
 analysis of the alkali manufactured by this 
 eminent firm : 
 
 Carbonate of Soda . . . 98.72 per cent. 
 
 Sulphate of Soda . . . 0.20 
 
 Chloride of Sodium . . . 0.54 
 
 Carbonate of Lime . . . o. 13 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia . . 0.04 
 
 Peroxide of Iron . . . o.oi 
 
 Alumina o.oi 
 
 Silica 0.09 
 
 Moisture . o. 26 
 
 Total . TOO. oo 
 
 Its companion and fellow county industry is 
 one presenting the same striking developments, 
 and Cheshire may be proud in possessing at 
 least two really prosperous concerns in these 
 days of depression ; for the world-wide ac 
 knowledged firm of Brunner, Mond & Co., and 
 the Sunlight Soap Co., are now responsible for 
 that taste of prosperity the county would Hke to 
 
142 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 have a full meal of. The Sunlight people have 
 done the Exhibition element thoroughly, for the 
 dwelling of their speciality is surmounted by a 
 model of Windsor Castle, one of the residences 
 of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, to whom they 
 have been appointed soap-makers by special 
 warrant ; and the electrical light shows the 
 beauty of their interior adornments to perfection. 
 This celebrated Soap Co., with their Sunlight 
 Port and immense factories, have probably 
 provided the finest souvenir to be found in the 
 whole exhibition, with letterpress by Mr. G. 
 A. Sala, and the most artistic photographic 
 transfers you could wish to see. This souvenir 
 will be much prized by its numerous recipients, 
 and we trust will herald in many homes the 
 coming of that sunlight which brings bright 
 ness, pleasure, and comfort. 
 
 I also was glad to find " The United Alkali 
 Co.," with a well-arranged selection of their 
 numerous manufactures, in another part of the 
 building. 
 
 This gigantic alkali combination has a paid- 
 up capital of $42,000,000, and a reserve fund of 
 $2,500,000. They own forty-five large chemical 
 copper and metal works, three extensive salt 
 works, two soap factories, and a works for 
 
" The World s Fair: 143 
 
 making refined resin. They employ 15,000 
 hands, possess hundreds of miles of sidings, 
 upwards of 2000 railway waggons, 65 loco 
 motives, besides a fleet of 10 steamers and 
 90 other vessels and several interests not here 
 enumerated. 
 
 The States make a great display of boots 
 and shoes with machinery in operation ; one 
 machine will make 10,010 button-holes in a 
 day. 
 
 The French Section has a verylfine collection 
 of silk and satin, etc. 
 
 Worcester china shows up well against all 
 competitors. 
 
 Almost every known nation has something 
 to show worthy of mention ; but the fact is, this 
 huge building contains more than any one 
 person will ever see, and no person will ever 
 describe, so I say farewell. 
 
 The Machinery Hall has many admirers from 
 all parts of the world. In the English exhibits, 
 among others, are Messrs. Galloway of Man 
 chester, with a pair of powerful compound 
 condensing engines; Messrs. Platt Bros., of 
 Oldham, have cotton mill machinery ; Messrs. 
 Hornsby of Grantham have their special engine, 
 and the " Hornsby Ackroyd " patent safety oil 
 
T44 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 engine, whose able inventor happened to be a 
 member of our party. Then I had an invitation 
 from the chairman of the syndicate to view a 
 type-setting machine ; and on the steamship 
 Berlin this gentleman informed me how the 
 trades unions in England had deprived the 
 British workman of his employment, through 
 their antagonism to the introduction of this 
 machine. 
 
 The small printers in Germany took to the 
 invention readily ; and as a type-setter will do 
 the work of from three to six men, it can well 
 be seen how our book publishers can have their 
 printing done cheaper in Germany than at 
 home. When will the trade agitator listen 
 to reason ? for surely the simplest mind can 
 grasp the fact that if wages are raised to an 
 artificial extent, or if the best appliances for 
 saving labour are refused, other nations who 
 use these, and pay less wages, must obtain the 
 work. 
 
 Strikes are now being condemned, tis true ; 
 men have found out their sad effects, but another 
 worse phase of the labour struggle is appearing 
 in the way of lessening hours without lessening 
 pay. This will place our manufacturers in a 
 worse position than ever and many more will 
 
" The World s Fair." 145 
 
 be driven by their tyrannical taskmasters, with 
 "grey hairs in sorrow," to a premature grave. 
 Working men little know the terrible strain 
 they subject their employers to, neither do they 
 imagine how many failures in our country are 
 attributable to the fact that the dishonesty of or 
 ganisation has for years compelled the supposed 
 capitalist to pay away for wages other people s 
 money, until the end has come and the creditors 
 have been called together. Who is to blame ? 
 
 The man could not obtain more than 
 a stated price for his production, and why 
 should he have been positively forced to 
 become dishonest against his will ? Some 
 would say he should have withdrawn from 
 business, but this is a harder matter than seems 
 on the surface, and might have been an utter 
 impossibility. Take as an example the trade in 
 England, which figures more conspicuously in 
 the black list than any other of similar propor 
 tions, and investigate the cause of failure, and 
 you will find those engaged in it have been 
 absolutely compelled by trade organisations to 
 pay a price for labour more than they could 
 command, so, the purchasing price being greater 
 than the selling, collapse was inevitable. This 
 is not the place to make a revelation; but I 
 
 10 
 
146 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 could write such a book from actual facts that 
 would prove conclusively that the very men 
 who champion the labour cause, and tell of the 
 downtrodden, hardly-used, ruthlessly robbed 
 working man, are themselves not only respon 
 sible for many of his present trials, but have 
 upon their shoulders the blood-guiltiness of 
 wrecking many enterprises, filling the hearts of 
 many with a gnawing anxiety no words can 
 picture, blasting the opening prospects of many 
 a success, and ruining many a bright and happy 
 home. And why ? Because they decree the 
 impossible, which is to regulate the price of 
 labour andjts conditions by a system of theories 
 which have no economic foundation, and must 
 eventually bring ruin and disaster both on 
 employer and employed. We have too much 
 of this " deliver or die " business ; and the 
 trader, and his friend, and brother in affliction, 
 the well-bled working man, scarcely enjoy the 
 freedom and protection of the dark ages, and 
 on the present system of handicapping they 
 must lose the race. From whence can we look 
 for deliverance ? 
 
 Some ministers of religion seek to render 
 service, but they display the grossest ignorance, 
 lose sight of the main issues, and make matters 
 
" The World s Fair: 147 
 
 infinitely worse. They join the agitator, assume 
 his unchristianlike calling, make out the em 
 ployer a fiend and the most unsympathetic 
 wretch on earth, and, like his companion, the 
 landlord, not to be even credited with the 
 feelings of a brute. 
 
 Absolute perfection there may not be ; but 
 where any business is sufficiently remunerative, 
 the working man seldom has occasion to grumble. 
 As an example, take the two Cheshire firms 
 mentioned in this chapter. They are specially 
 prosperous, and make the most sumptuous pro 
 vision for their employes. 
 
 Therefore, it is not the absence of will that 
 should be blamed, but the necessary power 
 regretted ; for if other firms could enjoy the same 
 good fortune the British laymen would almost 
 exceed the suggested generosity of the clericals. 
 Turning the subject, we will enter the Fine 
 Arts Palace for a change. We here find America, 
 England, Canada. France, Germany, Austria, 
 Belgium, Italy, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, 
 Russia, Spain, Holland, Japan, and Mexico, 
 claiming hanging space of over 170,000 square 
 feet. In all cases the picture line is taken 
 30 in. from the floor, and in calculating the 
 space the upper line at 15 ft, except in the 
 
148 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 galleries, where 12 ft. only is estimated. The 
 fine arts include oil and water-colour paintings, 
 pastel drawings, bronze reproductions, sculp 
 ture, engravings, etchings, metal work, embroid 
 eries, lacquer work, etc. ; and if I have added 
 up their sum total aright, there must be nearly 
 10,000 specimens, of which the States claim 
 about one-third. The paintings in oil perhaps 
 claim the lion s share of one s attention, as they 
 are so numerous ; and while some of them are 
 very good, the vast majority would hardly claim 
 an average position. You certainly have not the 
 quality in the same proportion as found in 
 one of our own provincial exhibitions, take 
 Manchester for instance, a few years ago. 
 
 The difference is about as great as that of the 
 exhibition at the old Royal House at San Ger 
 main, and the splendid work now exhibited at 
 Rouen, or say the choice collection at Luxem 
 bourg Musee. The quantity was too great to 
 examine minutely, and few live in the memory ; 
 but in the American school a large picture called 
 
 " Portrait of Dr. ," is one of the few, and he 
 
 is represented with others in a dissecting room, 
 putting you in mind, as far as subject-matter is 
 concerned, of Rembrandt s "Anatomist " at The 
 Hague ; but a ramble round such treasuries as 
 
" The World s Fair." 149 
 
 this, and that at Amsterdam, is more to my 
 liking than this vast assortment of good, bad, 
 and indifferent productions. 
 
 Perhaps that portion of the World s Expo 
 sition in which America is far ahead of all 
 competitors is the Palace of Electricity; here 
 she is seen in her natural splendour, eclipsing 
 by her dazzling light every other nation. Her 
 great electrician and champion, Mr. Edison, has 
 done much in this branch of scientific research, 
 and America may be justly proud of him as one 
 of her chief intellectual adornments. There are 
 some charming effects produced on the roof of 
 this building by rapidly changing flows of light, 
 sent along as if by magic through the medium 
 of coloured glasses. Then you have smaller 
 effects which work with automatic regularity, 
 much to the amazement and instruction of the 
 beholder. 
 
 You have also the multitude of ways in 
 which electricity can be applied, other than the 
 better-known ones : for instance, glass engraving, 
 etc., etc. In fact, there is a mysterious, almost 
 unearthly revelation made to you on all hands, 
 and you wonder, What next ? What next ? 
 
 The Horticultural Section has some fine 
 grouping of palms and foliage plants ; but 
 
150 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 probably the best thing in the whole is the 
 large-sized model of "The Capitol at Wash 
 ington," made in everlasting flowers. 
 
 The Mineral Department also is very good ; 
 and the Lancashire coal and cannel industry, 
 and the Cheshire salt trades have very creditable 
 displays. 
 
 The Woman s Building would more especi 
 ally interest the ladies, and members of our 
 royal family are among the exhibitors ; the 
 American ladies are very proud of the fact 
 that a lady was its architect, and all must admit 
 how well she has succeeded. All kinds of 
 attractions to charm the feminine mind, if not 
 " to calm the savage breast," are here found 
 in rich profusion. 
 
 There are some nice paintings one by Lady 
 Butler, "To the Front," priced $8,625. Then 
 you can take the elevator, and ascend to the 
 roof of the structure, where you obtain clean 
 and good light refreshments at a reasonable 
 cost. Then you should not fail to drink in 
 the beauties of the peristyle, which gives such 
 a magnificent effect, with the music hall and 
 casino at each end. 
 
 There is also a Children s Building. This is 
 quite a place of instruction, and on its roof 
 
" The World s Fair: 1 5 1 
 
 there are a playground and miniature lake for 
 boat sailing. Lessons are given by trained 
 gymnastic performers, to demonstrate what is 
 described as a "National System of Physical 
 Culture." There are also model kitchens, 
 music rooms, and plenty of toys. Teaching 
 deaf children to hear was one object-lesson 
 we saw, given by teachers from the " Home for 
 the Training in Speech of Deaf Children before 
 they are of School Age." This institution has 
 not been opened very long, but it is likely to 
 be very successful. The home is at Philadelphia. 
 May it prosper. 
 
 The Children s Building serves a very useful 
 purpose as a care-taking establishment, where 
 children may be left in good charge for a 
 small cost, while their parents view the wonders 
 of the Exposition. 
 
 The building outside is adorned with sundry 
 mottoes. Here are two : 
 
 "Just as a twig is bent the tree s inclined." 
 
 " God s little ones are to become the great ones of 
 the earth." 
 
 The Fisheries Building has a grand collection 
 of fishing appliances, and also a great variety of 
 live fish. 
 
 Then outside you have plenty to see : some 
 
152 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 fifty electric launches on the lake, gondolas, 
 and sixty gondoliers of genuine origin (for 
 these men, it is distinctly stated, were brought 
 direct from Venice); the beautiful wooded 
 island, the wonderful chair railway on the 
 pier; the great attractions in the Midway 
 Plaisance a stretch of ground nearly a mile 
 long, by 600 ft. wide which embrace the Irish 
 village, with Blarney Castle in the midst, the 
 German village, Egyptian and Japanese villages, 
 Moorish Palace, North Pole Skating Rink, St. 
 Peter s in Miniature, Street in Old Vienna, 
 Turkish Theatre, Street in Cairo, Tower of 
 Babel, Wisconsin Cranberry Patch, Zoopraxo- 
 graphical Hall; and, as the auctioneer would 
 say, etc., etc., too numerous to mention ; or, 
 what the showman might describe as an " holio " 
 of incomprehensible wonders. For certainly 
 you have here, and in the World s Fair through 
 out, a conglomeration of the wonderful, the 
 amusing, the beautiful, the mysterious, and 
 the grand, which the mind tries to grasp, 
 the tongue to describe, the pen to paint, 
 whereas it is a vainglorious achievement, 
 which no one will satisfactorily and completely 
 perform. 
 
 Farewell, thou stately majesty, thou white- 
 
"The World s Fair." 153 
 
 robed bride, without a suitor for thy hand, for 
 thy equal cannot be found to stand beside thee ; 
 and ere he is grown to man s estate thy glory 
 may have departed, and thy husband may sigh 
 for a bride ! So I leave thee, great Fair of the 
 West, hearing thy thundering voices giving the 
 lie to thy defamers, and proclaiming from thy 
 many palaces and halls of fame in a deafening 
 chorus that thou art, what thou hast truly claimed 
 to be, 
 
 The Greatest, the Grandest, and the Best. 
 
 My best wishes are thine. And so we bow, 
 retire, and present our valedictory testimonial 
 to thee. 
 
 "THE WORLD S FAIR." 
 
 No records of the past, we know, 
 Reveal the story of a show 
 
 Like this World s Fair ; 
 For what we read of all the earth, 
 Tells not an age has given birth, 
 
 Or what did dare. 
 
 For such a giant thing to make, 
 Conceive, and plan, and undertake, 
 
 Required the day 
 
 W 7 hen science should display her skill 
 With magic force, bring forth at will 
 
 Great powers to play. 
 
154 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 And yet in coming days, when \ve 
 Know more of her philosophy, 
 
 And can detect 
 
 The latent charms which she may hold, 
 Which minds cannot as yet behold, 
 
 Some may project 
 
 A thing far mightier than this show. 
 Then men may pause, and want to know 
 
 What earth will see ! 
 When further still pow rs will combine 
 And intermix and intertwine 
 
 In harmony. 
 
 Then intermingling forces will 
 Produce by their united skill 
 
 What mind can see, 
 Conjecture or now comprehend, 
 What may be. or dare now contend 
 
 What may not be ? 
 
 The truth might seem like insane thought, 
 Which some disordered mind had brought 
 
 From its vain store ; 
 Yet if the future should proceed 
 At present rates, men should succeed 
 
 In knowing more. 
 
 And knowledge gained, and well applied, 
 Will see the present magnified 
 
 To what extent ? 
 
 Ah ! who can picture ? who can say ? 
 For scientists e en of to-day 
 
 Are not content. 
 
"The World s Fair." 155 
 
 For they conceive, and rightly too, 
 That exploration has its due, 
 
 In changing night. 
 So they the students candle burn, 
 And o er dark pages quickly turn, 
 
 Make darkness light. 
 
 Thus, in the light of clearer days, 
 When other suns send other rays 
 
 Than we now see, 
 
 Then other men may make displays 
 Of works unknown in these great days 
 
 Of ninety-three. 
 
 Then some " World s Fair" a mind may plan, 
 Not now conjectured by that man, 
 
 Who has believed 
 
 The wonders of the earth are known, 
 Unconscious that it may be shown 
 
 He is deceived. 
 
 So while " The World s Fair " holds a place 
 Of honour, yet some may just trace, 
 
 In dim outline, 
 A finer effort to excel 
 The men who have designed so well 
 
 In this their time. 
 
 For know, " Excelsior " is the creed, 
 Of men who ever must proceed, 
 
 And mountains scale ; 
 They march like heroes to the fight. 
 They seek with courage for more light, 
 
 And will prevail. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 How feelingless the soul, which cannot gaze with rapturous 
 
 eyes 
 On rolling glory and transcendent beauty, which 
 
 defies 
 The best of artists to produce aright, with brush or 
 
 pen, 
 For Nature only can display her choicest diadem. 
 
 ON Tuesday evening, August 8th, we left 
 " Lexington Hotel " en route for 
 Niagara Falls. Every one seemed well pleased 
 with their Chicago experiences, and though the 
 weather had been excessively hot we had 
 no serious case of illness, though one of our 
 younger members was for a time rather bad, 
 but a couple of doses of our celebrated " cure " 
 set him straight quickly. 
 
 When our train had steamed out of the station 
 a man came round with newspapers, etc. ; the 
 evening Chicago paper, published at one cent, 
 we had to pay five for. This system is generally 
 practised on this continent ; and even at the 
 156 
 
Niagara Falls. 157 
 
 hotel newspaper stalls a three-cent morning 
 paper costs you an extra two cents. Newspaper 
 selling is a good thing here, for whether in 
 shops, streets, or cars, you have usually to 
 pay a good percentage on the price stated 
 thereon. 
 
 We pass the Fair, which looks very brilliant 
 with its halo of electrical lights, and then we 
 read our papers. We read of a certain re 
 verend gentleman with many dollars in his 
 possession being relieved of them the night 
 previous, in coming from the Fair. He had 
 alighted from the train, entered Chicago streets, 
 and before he could extricate himself from the 
 jocular attentions of three flashly, richly be 
 jewelled females his dollars were missing. 
 Fortunately several detectives had been watch 
 ing the movements of these ladies during the 
 evening, and they were nicely caught ; but the 
 report did not say whether the German divine 
 who received their unwelcome attentions re 
 gained his dollars. 
 
 Then you have to read the wordy encounters 
 of the lady managers of " The Fair," for they 
 have had uproarious meetings, and discussions 
 where personalities were freely indulged in, 
 and from the strength of the language used, it 
 
158 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 is a wonder they did not descend to the modern 
 parliamentary level, and have it out. 
 
 But you re not yet so bad as that, 
 
 Are you, my pretty beauties ? 
 Though perhaps you felt inclined to " scrat," 
 
 To prove sweet honour s duties. 
 
 But no ! you curbed the angry heart, 
 
 And left no lasting traces 
 To show the pugilistic art 
 
 Upon your charming faces. 
 
 But should you into M.P.s grow, 
 And prove real fighting members, 
 
 You will the same sad antics show 
 The British House remembers. 
 
 But you may say that such a post 
 Is more than your wish reaches ; 
 
 Although your poor grandfather s ghost 
 Sees that you wear his breeches. 
 
 But now, alas ! vile man decrees 
 
 Man s status you are claiming, 
 For he with wondering eyes now sees 
 
 Where your desires are aiming. 
 
 But see, you have his coat and hat, 
 
 His waistcoat, collar, gaiters ! 
 And you have donned your lord s cravat, 
 
 And look like woman haters. 
 
 But keep your temper, though you choose 
 
 Man s dress and occupation ; 
 For know, poor apes, he will refuse 
 
 Your offers of flirtation. 
 
Niagara Falls. 159 
 
 But ah ! your aspirations must, 
 
 Ye men-like, aping creatures, 
 True manhood s bright affection thrust 
 
 Away from your strange features. 
 
 Ladies of the World s Fair management, pray 
 excuse me saying your disasters arise through 
 your undertaking work not exactly in woman s 
 line, and which should be left to the gentle 
 men. You have done your best, but you 
 are not cut out to deal with these business 
 niceties, and your efforts generally terminate in 
 a quarrel. 
 
 Ah, beautiful womanhood ! with all your 
 graces, fascinations, and alluring enchantments, 
 you will find plenty of admirers and worshippers 
 if you confine yourselves to the more refined 
 tastes of life, for even man finds it sometimes 
 very difficult to avoid the calamity which has 
 overtaken you, although his resisting powers 
 are very much stronger than yours. Yours 
 is a graceful allotment in life, an elevated 
 position of which you may be justly proud ; 
 so pray don t part with your better nature 
 for a miserable nothing, but rather seek to 
 increase your homely, queenly, womanly graces, 
 and so gain the strong hearts, the sincere affec 
 tion, the love and esteem of those who would 
 
160 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 otherwise despise you and cover you with 
 reproach. 
 
 Ah, ladies ! you little know your power, for 
 you can have your rights, yea, have your own 
 way, and you can gain anything a true heart 
 desires by those womanly adornments grace, 
 gentleness, dignity, and love. 
 
 So, lovely woman, do not sell 
 
 Thy many charms for man s attire, 
 But cherish thy endowments well, 
 
 And to thy zenith pray aspire. 
 Thus will fond lovers on thee gaze, 
 
 And offer thee true manly hearts, 
 For men like thy bewitching ways 
 
 If but adorned by nature s arts. 
 
 Good evening, ladies ! your coloured country 
 man is now anxious to put us all right for the 
 night, so we retire, and are, by Mr. Pullman s 
 kindness and ingenuity of invention, soon 
 placed in the embracing arms of the goddess of 
 slumber, utterly oblivious even of the existence 
 of the feminine masculinities of the World s 
 Fair, and even forgetful of their tempestuous 
 disquisitions. 
 
 When the breakfast car is attached, in the 
 morning, every member of our contingent seems 
 ready for action ; and, it is therefore, unnecessary 
 
Niagara Falls. 161 
 
 to add, ample justice was done to the good 
 things provided. 
 
 The Michigan Central, which claims to be the 
 only real " Niagara Falls Route," certainly gives 
 you a very graphic view of the Falls, and also 
 the Rapids. For this purpose every train is 
 pulled up about a mile from the station, and stops 
 five minutes for " The Falls View," to enable 
 passengers, from the platforms of the train or 
 the fine level patch of greensward, to have their 
 first glance at these ever-rolling cataracts. 
 
 This small space of time does not give you 
 a sufficient opportunity of fully grasping the 
 greatness of the sight Nature here presents to 
 you, for you must calmly pause, look, think, 
 wonder, and set in motion all your faculties of 
 extended perceptiveness, before you succeed in 
 appreciating the appalling proportions of this 
 terrific sea of glory, this tumbling, confused 
 rush of waters, moving, with such tremendous 
 velocity, eternally onward over those precipitous 
 cliffs, along that awful self-constructed channel 
 to the greater ocean beyond ; for it is only in a 
 season of inspired contemplation that you can 
 view this great masterpiece aright, and see in 
 the fulness of its transcendent light the majesty 
 of the great Creator of the universe. 
 
 ii 
 
1 62 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Our hotel is situated on the Canadian side 
 of the Falls, and directly opposite the entrance 
 to the " Queen Victoria Park," a valuable and 
 desirable piece of property acquired a few years 
 ago, and made into a free pleasure resort for 
 the people. 
 
 Along one side of the hotel is the " Niagara 
 Falls Park and River Railway." This is of 
 recent construction, and is said to be " the best 
 equipped electric line on the Continent." 
 
 The power is gained from the Falls, and 
 engineers should not fail to see " the power 
 house," where the arrangements are such that 
 the electrical agent can be generated to any 
 extent required. 
 
 This overhead wire line runs from Queenstown 
 to Chippawa, and affords a very satisfactory, 
 cheap, quick, and delightful means of seeing 
 the falls, rapids, whirlpools, and eddies from a 
 fine vantage ground. 
 
 My first experience on this line was from 
 the Falls to Chippawa, and the morning was 
 a " scorcher." 
 
 The " no dust, no smoke, no cinders " line in 
 this direction runs over Cedar Island, Dufferin 
 Island, and crosses sundry bridges, over gurgling, 
 swiftly flowing currents. You are introduced 
 
Niagara Falls. 163 
 
 on the way to a new sensation : you pass through 
 a veritable cloud of flies, of a large, long, curious 
 species, and these cover you in such numbers 
 that your clothes bear a very lively and orna 
 mental appearance. 
 
 Many people visiting Chippawa have been 
 very disappointed in not finding this an Indian 
 settlement, but they have long disappeared 
 farther away from advanced civilisation. In 
 the days not very long ago this would not 
 have been a disappointment, for in the bloody 
 past, with its horrible encounters, the settlers 
 were quite ready to give the savage a wide 
 berth. 
 
 In the state of Pennsylvania, which just 
 touches with one of its corners Lake Erie, from 
 which these great waters flow, there was in 1764 
 a terrible tragedy enacted. This is vividly 
 brought to mind in The Globe, "Utica, Saturday, 
 August 1 2th, 1 893, "through buildinga monument 
 to the memory of those who were savagely 
 murdered in what is known as " the Enoch 
 Brown Massacre." This old schoolmaster, a 
 venerable man of seventy years, taught a little 
 school some three miles from Greenfield. The 
 children came for instruction from many miles 
 round, but on the day of this revolting incident 
 
164 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 fortunately some of the scholars were absent. It 
 was July 26th, and the scholars only numbered 
 eleven. It was in the morning, and the children 
 were engaged learning and reciting their lessons, 
 when one of the girls uttered a shriek of 
 terror. 
 
 Why, the graphic illustration clearly shows; 
 for standing at the open door were three Indians. 
 The old schoolmaster could at once divine they 
 were on a mission of death, and he pleaded for 
 the lives of the children committed to his 
 charge ; but his request was unavailing, for he 
 and ten of the scholars were killed and scalped 
 by these bloodthirsty savages. The eleventh 
 scholar, a boy, was also left for dead; but he 
 recovered, to be the tragic relator of this heinous 
 and thrilling crime. 
 
 The children not returning home in the after 
 noon, a search party was instituted; and on 
 arriving at the cabin-like schoolhouse found the 
 mangled bodies of the venerable teacher and 
 his pupils. But now the times are altered, and 
 many of the Indians have learned to respect the 
 laws of civilisation. 
 
 At Chippawa I was handed a piece of paper, 
 on which was a roughly drawn plan, and the 
 words, 
 
Niagara Falls. 165 
 
 "GOING BACK, STOP OFF AND VISIT 
 "THE FAMOUS OLD BURNING SPRING. 
 
 " Don t miss it. The greatest of earth s wonders. Burning 
 water from the interior crust of the earth." 
 
 The invitation was accepted, so I " stopped 
 off," and mounted the hill to see this wonder, 
 discovered by Indians one hundred years ago ; 
 and I was not " induced to turn to the right or 
 left," but reached the burning spring. 
 
 First you proceed through a shop, then enter 
 a dark room, which looks very dismal until the 
 light is applied to the burning element, whatever 
 that may be. There is a water inclosure, about 
 five or six feet diameter, and in the centre of this 
 an iron pipe rises to about the height of a man. 
 The tap is turned and this is lighted. On extin 
 guishing the light, the pipe is removed, and 
 instantly the water is set in motion by some 
 force striving to gain liberty through it. The 
 lighted match is again applied, and the water is 
 all aflame with a fantastic light with struggling 
 waves, producing a very ghostlike effect. Then 
 the shutters are removed, and you are allowed 
 to examine to your heart s content. 
 
 Since, I have heard it stated, this burning 
 spring is a sell that some current of burning 
 
1 66 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 ingredients is transmitted to the place ; but this 
 seems to be rather far-fetched, for had this 
 been a swindle its originators would have 
 placed the supposed burning spring in a more 
 accessible situation. My conviction is that 
 this is an escapement of natural gas and the 
 pressure is so great that it forces its way through 
 the water to the surface, and freed therefrom is 
 easily ignited. It is not the water which burns, 
 but the vapour on its surface ; and if there is a 
 deception at all it consists in the name only, 
 for the eruption of gas from the subterranean 
 crevices beneath the earth s surface is some 
 thing of a curiosity to the beholders who have 
 never seen anything of the kind before. 
 Regaining the river side, you await the electric 
 car, for of walking under such a sun you have 
 had quite enough. 
 
 In the afternoon you take the opposite 
 direction, where you mount the high cliffs over 
 looking the rapids; and you experience the 
 unpleasant effects of the inability of an amateur 
 driver to keep down his excessive excitement ; 
 for first you rush at full speed, then he frantically 
 motions to the other man to apply the brake, 
 I presume. 
 
 However, you have alternate shocks of too 
 
Niagara Falls. 167 
 
 rapid travelling, and sadly too quick stops ; 
 and this, coupled with the look of wild nervous 
 ness on the driver s face, makes you nervous 
 too. 
 
 You first of all pass the New Suspension 
 Bridge, rebuilt in 1889, with a span of 1268 ft. 
 from centre to centre of towers, and which 
 crosses the great gulf less than a quarter of a 
 mile from the Falls. It is 190 ft. above the river, 
 and visitors are not supposed to know that the 
 previous structure was destroyed by a gale. 
 
 Then you see the Cantilever Bridge of the 
 Michigan Central, made of steel, with a total 
 length of 910 ft. This is considered to be a 
 sight worthy of notice, as it is one of the first 
 bridges of its kind ever erected. Another 
 fine bridge crosses lower down the river a 
 railway suspension bridge, with roadway for 
 passengers and vehicles beneath. Of course I 
 had no opportunity of calculating the strength 
 of these several bridges, neither do I know the 
 greatest force and velocity the wind down this 
 chasm has been known to register ; but I could 
 not help wondering whether they could resist 
 the onslaught of one of those devastating 
 cyclones this continent is sometimes visited by. 
 Probably elaborate estimates have been duly 
 
1 68 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 gone into by their designers ; but even looking 
 now at the photograph of one of these bridges, 
 with a train travelling in each direction, you 
 don t feel any yearning desire to be in one 
 when the wind should play its furious feats of 
 strength on this exposed situation. 
 
 Nearing Queenston, you pass beneath the 
 lofty monument erected to the memory of 
 General Brock, in 1826 firstly, but destroyed 
 by an explosion in 1840. The imposing 
 structure gracing the heights above stands 
 185 ft. high, and has a base of 45 ft. square. 
 Lower down the steep gradient, and nearer 
 Queenston, is a massive piece of masonry, said 
 to have been " erected " by the Prince of Wales 
 in 1860, and which marks the spot where the 
 gallant General heroically fell, along with his 
 aide-de-camp. Hereon we read, 
 
 NEAR THIS SPOT 
 
 MAJOR-GENERAL SIR ISAAC BROCK. K.C.H., 
 
 " PROVISIONAL LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR 
 
 "OF UPPER CANADA. 
 
 "FELL, I2TH OCTOBER, l8l2, 
 
 WHILE ADVANCING TO REPEL THE INVADING ENEMY." 
 
Niagara Falls. 169 
 
 Queenston is a bright little place, surrounded 
 by vineyards ; and from its overhanging heights 
 you have a grand view of the river and Lake 
 Ontario, whose boundaries are described as the 
 fruit garden of Canada. 
 
 On the day of our arrival the entire company 
 had a fine carriage drive on the American side 
 of the river. The place where poor Captain 
 Webb lost his life was visited, also the place 
 where the river takes such a sudden turn. The 
 water rushes with great force against the high, 
 perpendicular rock, and suddenly turns round 
 to the right. This peculiarity, looked at from a 
 distance, appears as the terminus ; but when 
 you view the boiling abyss, with its fearful 
 whirlpools, you are inclined to sit down with the 
 students of the Glacier period, and ask them 
 ho\v and why and when that body of water 
 burst its banks and constructed for itself this 
 other channel. 
 
 You descend by an elevator to the raging 
 torrent below, and wonder at the daring of any 
 man casting himself in its whirling bosom. 
 
 Returning, we pass over the bridge to Goat 
 Island, see the American Falls, and thence to 
 the Horseshoe Falls, and have a really delightful 
 drive through the wooded park. 
 
170 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 We descend the steps, stand by the water, 
 and hear its roar with a sort of fascination, the 
 offspring of inexhaustible amazement. 
 
 We see the almost indescribable wonder of 
 15,000,000 cubic feet of water plunging head 
 long over an irregular curve of some 3000 ft. 
 every minute, descending 158 ft., so it is said ; 
 but who can tell the unfathomable depth below 
 the surface of the escaping waters, which must 
 have been made in the centuries these waters 
 have flowed ? 
 
 We then drive to the Islands known as " The 
 Three Sisters," and have to alight and cross 
 three bridges before we reach the farthest 
 one. The ladies stay in the carriage, and I, 
 along with " a fine old English gentleman," go 
 to find out what " The Three Sisters " are like. 
 The other carriages appear to have taken a 
 different route, for ours did this part of the 
 journey alone. 
 
 From these islands you have a good view of 
 " The Grand Island," over 15,000 acres in 
 extent a few miles farther up the river. You 
 also have a full view of the vast range of water, 
 which is some 2| miles in width. 
 
 It is rather enchanting to read about "The 
 Hermit " of Niagara, who used to bathe near 
 
Niagara Falls. 171 
 
 these islands, but was eventually drowned. Just 
 above these little islands the river seems to 
 have a sudden drop of ten or twelve feet, and 
 consequently the water rushes between with 
 great rapidity. 
 
 A notice is posted up : 
 
 "Do NOT GO IN DANGEROUS PLACES." 
 
 Certainly there is plenty of danger to the careless, 
 but the only danger I was at all afraid of was in 
 the shape of two men. One of these was on 
 the outer island and the other on the centre 
 bridge, as if there was some collusion existing. 
 On both these men I kept a close watch, for it 
 seemed to me very suspicious. My companion 
 stayed to look at the raging waters from the 
 bridge, but I took him by the arm, and did not 
 tell him my reason until we had regained the 
 carriage. 
 
 My own conviction is that these two men 
 meant mischief if a favourable chance had been 
 provided. They certainly were not of the sight 
 seeing class, and the place was very convenient 
 for the committal of any crime, the traces of 
 which these mighty waters would have buried 
 in their bosom. Our driver now takes us to 
 the other side of Goat Island, and we have 
 
172 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 another view of the great river, down whose 
 divided and subdivided channel each hour roll 
 one hundred million tons of water, to be hurled 
 over the two great falls. This will show the 
 magnitude of the falls, if nothing else will, if 
 any mind can accurately grasp what these 
 ponderous figures mean. The estimate has 
 been made I believe by an expert. Let any 
 calculating mind contemplate and think how 
 many tons pass over these rocks in a single 
 second, and he will appreciate more than 
 before the almost incomprehensible force this 
 great torrent represents. Carry your estimate 
 a little further, and take one day of twenty-four 
 hours, and construct this water into a huge 
 mountain, and you will be utterly astonished 
 at its stupendous proportions. Or take the 
 opposite problem, and see the immense lake 
 these waters would make in a single day, and 
 you then understand something, however faint 
 the conception, of the extent of the sea of 
 water which proceeds from Lake Erie down 
 the river Niagara for twenty-two miles, whose 
 overflow includes, I suppose, the contributions 
 of the other three lakes, Huron, Michigan, 
 and Superior, to be hurled over the cataracts, 
 thence to follow its narrow channel until 
 
Niagara Falls. 173 
 
 entering Lake Ontario, whose waters flow onward 
 to yield their help in making the mighty 
 volume the great St. Lawrence hurries to the 
 sea. 
 
 Some of our party made the uproarious trip by 
 the little steamer Maid of the Mist, which makes 
 her way through the boiling waters very near 
 the Horseshoe Falls. The thundering noise, 
 the spray, the mist, and the wild commotion, are 
 rather alarming to timid people, and the oil-cased 
 venturous spirits who take this excursion and 
 also visit the Cave of the Winds, look like 
 amateur Arctic explorers. 
 
 One gentleman writer, who ventured rather 
 farther than ordinary mortals dare through these 
 gorgeous archways, describes the terrific air- 
 currents in startling language, and states the 
 effect is like " actual blows with the fist." The 
 two evenings we spent at Niagara were very 
 pleasant, for we had some good music and 
 singing. Then it was nice to stroll outside, for 
 we had the electric light, which has a strange 
 shadowy effect with the moving tree foliage. 
 What a vast number of insects this light 
 attracts ! One of our friends secured a very 
 large specimen of greenish colour, which was 
 the subject of much curious examination. The 
 
Across the Atlantic. 
 
 natives called it a bug, but they call many 
 insects by this name. 
 
 During our excursion we had often heard the 
 buzz of some insects in the trees, a most unusual 
 sound, some said produced by locusts, others 
 by tree frogs. There would be a loud outburst 
 which gradually died away, and was said to be 
 produced by the wings and not by the vocal 
 chords. It was said to be a sign of hot weather; 
 but if the weather became hotter than we 
 experienced, it would be unbearable for English 
 people. We have seen the Falls in the glorious 
 sunshine, and by the light of the pale moon ; 
 we have heard the moaning of the waters in 
 the stillness of the night; but the grandest of all 
 sights is to see them in the depth of winter, 
 when the trees in the region of the spray are 
 laden with ice, and every twig is bent with its 
 wintry load. 
 
 Then, when the ice flows down from the lake, 
 the sight must be magnificent to view: thousands 
 of ice blocks, some tons in weight, hurled as if 
 from the mouth of a great cannon, to topple 
 over their predecessors, and with a terrible crash 
 seek their place in the gorge below. Wonderful 
 work of Nature, always working, never tiring, 
 but with relentless energy toiling on from 
 
Niagara Falls. 175 
 
 generation to generation, fulfilling an allotted 
 part in the work of the universe, teaching man 
 many lessons, instructing him in great truths, 
 and ever offering ceaseless homage to the great 
 Architect of the world. Farewell, ye mighty 
 chasms, ye gaping graves clothed in solemnity, 
 ye indelible witnesses of Eternal Power, ye 
 quivering torrents, ye overhanging cliffs, ye 
 supernatural elements clothed in spray and 
 mist, with voices of thunder, illuminated by 
 spectre-like rainbows and wonderful shadows, 
 ye rolling mountains of water, with all your 
 entrancing proclamations of majestic force, won 
 derful velocity, inexorable grandeur and varied 
 loveliness. Farewell ! farewell ! And as I place 
 you, the picture of pictures, within my store 
 house of wonders, I shall sing iyou my own 
 song of admiring eulogy. 
 
 Majestic and supremely grand, 
 The greatest wonder of the land, 
 
 Where you are ever found ; 
 For those who see will go away. 
 To hear again for many a day 
 
 Your wild, terrific sound. 
 
 Tremendous forces, roll along, 
 And sing each day your mighty song, 
 Your lofty voice upraise ! 
 
176 A cress the Atlantic. 
 
 That listening throngs may learn from you 
 What is their great Creator s due, 
 And, like you, offer praise. 
 
 Then He who did your force ordain 
 From countless little drops of rain, 
 
 With your great voices may 
 Find feebler notes of praise ascend. 
 Which will with your vast offering blend 
 
 Before His Throne each day. 
 
 Speed on then still, ye peerless powers, 
 So shall you teach to hearts like ours 
 
 The Omnipresent might, 
 The wondrous wisdom, boundless skill, 
 The grand conception and the will 
 
 Of God the Infinite. 
 
 Since thus concluding my chapter on Niagara 
 and its resounding glories, I feel that more than 
 the little passing mention is due to "The 
 Hermit," whose nature seems to have been 
 the opposite to that morose temperament, the 
 hermit s general characteristic; for birds and 
 animals richly complimented his gentleness, 
 and the people around were charmed by his 
 eloquence, good breeding, and refinement. I 
 therefore give my rhythmical account of the 
 fragmentary history of one whose life seems to 
 have given to " The Three Sisters " and adjacent 
 islands a richly romantic adornment, which 
 
Niagara Falls. 177 
 
 arouses one s admiration for this hermit about 
 whom such scanty records exist. 
 
 THE HERMIT OF THE FALLS. 
 
 He was a stranger, quite unknown, 
 
 Who came the Falls to see, 
 Announcing that his sojourning 
 
 About a week would be ; 
 But when his wondering eyes did gaze 
 
 Upon the monster sight, 
 He seemed enchanted to the spot, 
 
 And morning, noon, and night, 
 Would look with rapture on the scene, 
 
 Where wonders intermix ; 
 And then exclaimed, so some one heard, 
 
 That it would take quite six, 
 Yea, even six weeks would not yield 
 
 To view, sufficient time, 
 The mighty glories of the sight, 
 
 Which, like the light divine, 
 For ever shines with radiance clear, 
 
 And will not, cannot stay, 
 But men behold, with trembling awe, 
 
 Through night as well as day. 
 
 The six weeks passed, but at their close 
 
 The stranger still was found 
 Enraptured by the picture s power, 
 
 The raging waters sound. 
 He roamed about the Falls like one 
 
 Who, spell-bound, could not leave, 
 For all his senses seemed aroused, 
 
 And every one would grieve 
 
 12 
 
1 78 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 If he should say a long farewell 
 
 To what, with magic power, 
 
 Appealed in many forms to him 
 
 And shortened every hour. 
 
 So time fled rapidly along, 
 
 Till this was his decree 
 He would a tabernacle build 
 
 To Nature s majesty. 
 Then he did seek for leave to place 
 
 Amidst the waters roar, 
 One of " The Sisters" was the spot, 
 
 The nearest to the shore : 
 He there would have a temple made, 
 
 In which he could reside. 
 But this permission was not gained, 
 
 So though not gratified, 
 His wish then took another form, 
 
 He would a hermit dwell 
 Amid these all-absorbing sights 
 
 And sounds he loved so well. 
 
 So first on " Iris " he did live ; 
 
 The house was very old, 
 But he was quite contented there 
 
 Throughout a winter s cold. 
 And then some people came to claim 
 
 The right to have a home 
 Upon the lonely island, where 
 
 He did enjoy to roam. 
 But when seclusion s perfect state 
 
 Could be no longer here, 
 He then to " Prospect Point " did go, 
 
 And for himself did rear 
 
Niagara Falls. 179 
 
 Another house, though not so large, 
 
 Where he could meditate ; 
 And in blest solitude s retreat, 
 
 Far from the world s noise, hate. 
 And bustle, could there live in peace, 
 
 The voice of Nature hear 
 From all the multitudes of forms 
 
 Which daily gre\v more dear. 
 
 His violin, guitar, and flute, 
 
 And books were his good friends, 
 His dog and cat his company, 
 
 And so the time he spends. 
 
 But why a nature, loving, true, 
 
 Should live a life like this, 
 Was sometimes by the curious asked ; 
 
 For they knew not what bliss 
 A heart that loves sweet solitude 
 
 Finds in a calm retreat 
 Where there is ne er an angry frown 
 
 The look of love to greet. 
 
 The hermit perhaps had felt the cold, 
 
 The withering look of hate ; 
 Or, it might be, the other look, 
 
 Had come a bit too late. 
 
 However, many wondered why 
 
 This noble-looking man, 
 With youth and high intelligence, 
 
 Should choose the hermit plan 
 Of living, where wild Nature charms 
 
 With voices some would fear, 
 But which the ward of loneliness 
 
 Is always glad to hear. 
 
i So Across the Atlantic. 
 
 And so this hermit, who had seen 
 
 The sights of many lands, 
 Had found the crown to grace them all, 
 
 And now in rapture stands 
 Before the one surpassing those 
 
 He previously had seen, 
 So he in loyalty abides 
 
 Before this Empress-Queen. 
 
 Thus weeks and months did pass away, 
 
 And even birds did find 
 The hermit s heart was full of love, 
 
 And proving he was kind. 
 They came within his small abode, 
 
 From his hand took their meal, 
 For even hermits may have hearts 
 
 Which are not made of steel ; 
 Though perhaps humanity would judge, 
 
 So harshly, yet untrue, 
 That birds would give what man denies 
 
 The confidence that s due. 
 
 What thoughts did fill the hermit s breast 
 
 No story e er can tell, 
 But we believe that he did love 
 
 These glorious prospects well ; 
 And no doubt oft would contemplate 
 
 On ghastly stones told, 
 Relating to the savage race, 
 
 Who, in the days of old, 
 Did worship these terrific sights, 
 
 And in their waters swift, 
 In a bright flower-bedecked canoe 
 
 Would let a maiden drift. 
 
Niagara Falls. 181 
 
 This in their ignorance did think 
 
 Would " the great Spirit " please, 
 And by this human sacrifice 
 
 His anger would appease. 
 But doubtless Heaven s love would surround 
 
 The man who could adore 
 The great Creator s mighty work, 
 
 And live upon the shore ; 
 So that he might both hear and see 
 
 Earth s greatest chorus given, 
 Proclaiming with its ceaseless voice 
 
 The majesty of Heaven. 
 Thus he the heart s best homage gave, 
 
 The power of God did own, 
 And perhaps in his lone solitude 
 
 Had many favours shown ; 
 For there are luxuries which give 
 
 The heart immense delight, 
 Unknown to earth s vast surging throngs, 
 
 Who never gain the sight 
 Of those bright favours hearts enjoy. 
 
 Who lonesome pathways tread, 
 And in that solitude abide 
 
 Which other natures dread. 
 Ah. lonely hermit ! no one knows 
 
 The sorrow or the joy 
 Which did within thy heart prevail, 
 
 Or how thou didst employ 
 The elevated powers of thought 
 
 Thy hermitage would claim. 
 Alas ! thy hand did never pen 
 
 And so man did not gain 
 Thy mind s revolving, varied themes, 
 
 For they, alas ! like thee, 
 
1 82 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Belong no more to earth, for they 
 Again can never be. 
 
 Thy end was sad, for thou didst bathe 
 
 On that cold day in June, 
 When nature with thee seemed to fail, 
 
 For thou wast carried soon 
 Right over those great thundering falls 
 
 Into the depths below. 
 Then hurried onward by their floods, 
 
 Which there for ever flow 
 To reach those whirling eddies where, 
 
 With their unfailing might. 
 Thy poor remains were driven round 
 
 While many viewed the sight. 
 For one man saw thee on that day 
 
 Enter those waters deep, 
 And on thy clothes left on the bank, 
 
 A distant watch did keep ; 
 Then came to see what was the cause 
 
 The bather did not dress, 
 Only to find thy hermitage 
 
 Would now be tenantless. 
 He knew that cramp, or some fell stroke, 
 
 Had played a deadly part, 
 And that the might thy body claimed 
 
 Which had before thy heart. 
 Pie raised the cry, and quickly sped 
 
 Thy woeful fate to tell 
 To those who did thy value know, 
 
 And did esteem thee well. 
 So that was why the throng did haste 
 
 Along the lower stream, 
 And saw thy mangled body tossed, 
 
 Alas ! a piteous scene ! 
 
Niagara Falls. 183 
 
 They gained at last thy poor remains, 
 
 And took them to thy cot ; 
 Thy faithful dog by instinct showed 
 
 He knew his mournful lot, 
 And that he now was masterless ; 
 
 And perhaps by some dumb show 
 Would let the kitten on thy chair 
 
 The same sad message know. 
 
 Alas ! thy bearei-s found thy home 
 
 With these sad traces left, 
 And perhaps would take to these thy pets, 
 
 Who were of thee bereft. 
 Thy strings of music were all mute. 
 
 Thy book was open found. 
 Its reader will ne er more explore 
 
 The thoughts within it bound. 
 
 " The Sisters " for thee will not weep, 
 
 For they have hearts of stone ; 
 But it may be across the sea, 
 
 Disheartened and alone, 
 Some maiden fair would often sigh, 
 
 That through some great mistake 
 Her lover was borne far away 
 
 To meet a cruel fate. 
 Or it might be that she had reached 
 
 The golden land before, 
 And waited thee, with welcome bright, 
 
 Upon its distant shore. 
 
 But loving hands did bury thee, 
 
 Surrounded by the might 
 Of waters, which thou didst admire ; 
 
 And as we view the sight 
 
184 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 We think of thee, and how thy life 
 
 Before this power did bend, 
 And how thy tragic, fearful death 
 
 Will to their forces lend 
 A weird voice, to tell the tale, 
 
 Whose awe each one enthralls ; 
 Thus will they honour s tribute pay 
 
 The " Hermit of the Falls." 
 
 But people wond ringly still ask, 
 
 Is this all that is known? 
 Can no one tell from whence he came? 
 
 Where was his native home ? 
 
 Well, little else than I have told 
 
 Was heard about this man ; 
 But I will all the rest reveal, 
 
 Yes ! everything I can. 
 His father was a clergyman 
 
 In Albion s far-off land, 
 Remittances were sent from there 
 
 And duly came to hand ; 
 So he had plenty for his wants 
 
 While he did here reside, 
 Through nature s yearnings for the place ; 
 
 For he did take a pride 
 In what his nature loved so well, 
 
 Where he heard many calls, 
 Which even now repeat his name 
 
 These fearful speaking Falls. 
 
 Thus "Francis Abbott s" name will live, 
 
 His destiny will claim 
 That all these thundering waters force 
 
 Shall still pronounce his name. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 " Mount Royal," thy name, I like it best, for thou hast been, 
 Along with thy great land, most loyal to our Empress-Queen ; 
 And also to that smaller land to which thou dost belong, 
 Thou art of all her children great, the strongest of the strong. 
 
 ON Friday morning, August nth, we left 
 Niagara Falls for Montreal, via Niagara 
 village, whence we journeyed by train. Here 
 we boarded the lake steamer, had a two hours 
 sail across Ontario, and reached Toronto about 
 noon. 
 
 We had a great number of baskets of very 
 choice fruit brought on board at Niagara, which 
 no doubt were destined for Toronto or some 
 other great Canadian centre. Toronto is a city 
 worth looking at, and our drive round gave us 
 a good idea of its main objects of interest 
 historical, architectural, and intellectual. 
 
 The streets and boulevards are in good order, 
 and laid out with extremely good taste ; the 
 university, the school of science, colleges, hos 
 pitals, public offices, and the newly erected, 
 185 
 
1 86 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 finely situated, well designed, beautifully adorned 
 House of Parliament show that Toronto means 
 business, and is not going to be left behind 
 by any of her competitors. 
 
 There is a very remarkable street here, which 
 of course extends far beyond the city boundaries ; 
 for it is stated to be lined with houses for over 
 thirty miles. 
 
 Now the people of Toronto, to their credit 
 be it spoken, are a religious, well-inclined, 
 law-abiding, loyal community ; and I am very 
 much interested in the great struggle they are 
 now engaged in to maintain what they have 
 hitherto enjoyed i.e., a quiet Sunday. 
 
 The Toronto Globe, on the day of our visit, 
 had a most interesting account of this, extending 
 to four columns. 
 
 For Sunday observers the Rev. Principal 
 Cavan stated the case with great clearness ; 
 and the immediate question is the proposed 
 innovation of running Sunday cars : 
 
 " Whatever impairs the sanctity of this day in the 
 minds of men operates against the work and aims of 
 the Christian Chui ch, and the interests of religion. To 
 irreligious persons this is a matter of no consequence ; 
 to those who believe that the highest welfai e of our 
 race is bound up with the prevalence of Christianity, it 
 is a consideration of momentous importance." 
 
Montreal. 1 87 
 
 And here is the summing up : 
 
 "Far rather would we see our fair city remain a 
 bright example to this continent of regard for the Lord s 
 day than hasten to renounce its crown, and class itself 
 with other great cities in things that afford warning 
 rather than example. " 
 
 The other side, the secularists and infidels, use 
 the argument, and try to prove the expediency 
 and utility of Sunday cars for the working 
 man, who requires pleasure and amusement on 
 Sunday, having worked hard during the six days. 
 
 After leaving Toronto I received an advance 
 copy of a religious journal called Onward, in 
 which the discussion is carried still further. 
 
 This gives an illustration entitled " Toronto s 
 Crown of Glory, and the Vandals who would 
 despoil her of it." One figure represents an 
 angel, from whose trumpet hangs a banner, 
 bearing the words, "Toronto s quiet Sunday, 
 the boast and envy of Christendom." The 
 central figure is a graceful female form holding 
 the Bible in one hand, and the other bearing 
 a tablet with the words, " Man s experience 
 proves that God s law of Sabbath rest from all 
 labour is wise and good." Then over the crown 
 are the words proceeding in dart-like fashion, 
 " Rest ! Peace ! Order ! Law ! " on the pillar 
 
1 88 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 block, "Toronto, famous throughout the world 
 as the city of a quiet Sunday"; then on the 
 base of the monument, " Our unique reputation 
 is our most valuable business asset." 
 
 This discussion appears to resolve itself into 
 the contention that we must either deny the 
 living nature of the decalogue, and trample 
 underfoot the fourth commandment, which God 
 Himself gave and never revoked, or we must 
 own this as the revelation of the will of the 
 Creator, to be duly honoured. 
 
 Now, as to the question of loss or gain to 
 struggling humanity, any unprejudiced observer 
 must admit that the Sabbath-keepers have 
 evidently the best side of the argument. Con 
 trast a Sunday in Toronto or Edinburgh with 
 one on the Continent. Well, look at the 
 countenances of the two very different peoples. 
 
 Take a seat in the Avenue du Bois de 
 Boulogne on any fine Sunday afternoon, and see 
 the three thousand conveyances with their living 
 freight of humanity pass each hour. Then go 
 to any city where a quiet, restful, holy day is 
 recognised, and ask yourself the question, which 
 people look the happiest, and appear the best 
 qualified to face the duties of the coming week. 
 
 I have often noticed the extreme look of 
 
Montreal. 189 
 
 sorrowful hopelessness on the countenances 
 of the workmen. Take Paris as an instance, 
 where the little cessation for a few hours on 
 Sunday is spent in a whirl of excitement, and 
 many have to work harder on that day of rest 
 than on any other. 
 
 Believers in the Bible as the foundation of 
 truth, hesitate before you respond to the 
 invitation of those who would claim your birth 
 right for what it never was intended by its 
 all-wise Creator ; but keep it as the Sabbath, 
 still remembering the promise which time can 
 never annul or destroy, but which remains just 
 the same as when God instructed His holy 
 prophet to proclaim it : " If thou turn away thy 
 foot from the Sabbath, from doing thy pleasure 
 on My holy day, and call the Sabbath a delight, 
 the holy of the Lord, honourable, and shalt 
 honour Him, not doing thine own ways, nor 
 finding thine own pleasure, nor speaking thine 
 own words : then shalt thou delight thyself in 
 the Lord ; and I will cause thee to ride upon 
 the high places of the earth, and feed thee with 
 the heritage of Jacob thy father : for the mouth 
 of the Lord hath spoken it." 
 
 Toronto, I like thee ; I admire thy Sabbaths ; 
 I will sing thy praises. 
 
i go Across t/ie Atlantic. 
 
 Toronto, fair city, on thee we just glance, 
 But our little view will greatly enhance 
 
 Our thoughts and our liking for thee. 
 We shall watch o er thy growth when far, far away. 
 And live o er again that part of a day 
 
 We some of thy treasures did see. 
 
 We heard of thy valour for truth and for God, 
 And wish other cities had always thus trod 
 
 In ways that high Heaven will bless ; 
 For thou, gallant city, for God s holy day 
 Art fighting and showing to others the way, 
 
 We hope thou wilt meet with success. 
 
 For the Sabbath you claim, as that day of rest, 
 God has said must be kept as holy and blest, 
 
 And this is high Heaven s command. 
 So hesitate not to continue the fight, 
 Your words and your actions are certainly right, 
 
 And will God s approval demand. 
 
 Remember the Sabbath as His holy day, 
 Appointed that man might worship and pray, 
 
 And praise the Creator s wise plan, 
 In freeing from toil, just one day in seven, 
 When the mind may be fill d with bright thoughts 
 
 of heaven, 
 
 The home God has promised to man. 
 
 Toronto, we praise thee for trying to make 
 The Sabbath a rest, and fearing to break 
 
 A command most holy and true ; 
 We hope that thy people will stand by the truth, 
 Thy elders set forth an example to youth, 
 
 To claim the seventh day as their due. 
 
Montreal. 191 
 
 Thus, fearing the Lord of the Sabbath, you will 
 Be blessed and happy, and shielded from ill ; 
 
 While Sabbath defilers are found, 
 In holy delights, away far from you ; 
 For they will receive from Heaven what is due 
 
 While standing where curses abound. 
 
 Man requires the seventh day that he may rest 
 from his labours, and in its peace, refreshment, 
 change, rest, and reviving influences, find the 
 physical part of his nature better qualified to 
 battle with the coming six days toil. But 
 should he tax his overwrought system by a 
 species of pleasure-seeking on that day, which 
 tries him even more than a day of ordinary 
 work, how will he be benefited by this interval 
 of rest arranged for him by Omnipotent 
 wisdom ? 
 
 Thus you contrast the countenances of those 
 who have spent the Sabbath something after 
 the fashion its Divine Originator suggested, with 
 those who give up its precious hours to what is 
 called pleasure. On one you see the blessings 
 of peace, satisfaction, and thankfulness ; on the 
 other, the hopeless weariness of one who has 
 no experience of its blessed refreshment, and 
 has no bright prospect of an eternal Sabbath 
 to enlighten this world s gloom. 
 
 Of course many will say that this is not a 
 
192 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 subject for discussion, for when the Almighty 
 has so clearly stated His opinion in language 
 that cannot be misinterpreted, man should 
 universally bow before it. In one way this is 
 quite true; but unfortunately there are many 
 who will not recognise God s authority, there 
 fore they persist in following a line of conduct 
 which robs others of the full enjoyment of the 
 blessed privileges of the Sabbath, and the 
 boundless blessings flowing from a due ac 
 knowledgment of its sacred employments. But 
 we must for the present leave this subject, 
 recording our conviction that the Sunday- 
 pleasure argument is not half so strong as that 
 in support of seven days labour, and neither can 
 approach that in favour of observing the 
 command, " Six days shalt thou labour and 
 do all that thou hast to do, but the seventh 
 day is the Sabbath of the Lord thy God," etc. 
 
 Our stay at Toronto only occupied a few 
 hours, and early in the afternoon we left by 
 steamer for Montreal. This meant a night on 
 board, for the commercial capital of Canada 
 was not reached until the evening of the 
 following day. 
 
 We sailed the waters of Lake Ontario, making 
 a few stoppages, and in the early morning 
 
Montreal. 193 
 
 arrived at Kingston, a thriving manufacturing 
 centre. 
 
 This was the first place where some of our 
 passengers could obtain intoxicants ; and one of 
 the stewards was entrusted with a fairly good 
 sum to lay in a stock of these indispensables 
 for those who indulge in the habit of taking 
 them. The steamer, I understand, had lost its 
 drink license through selling in port to non- 
 passengers, and the owners were fined $1000, 
 so the story goes. I heard of some curious 
 doings, which I cannot record here, but which 
 seem to indicate that people who drink must 
 have the facilities to supply their requirements, 
 for if not they will make them ; and it is quite 
 possible the prohibitory measures of the well- 
 disposed may produce worse effects than the 
 trade could do when under proper supervision 
 and legal control. We left Kingston before the 
 people were astir, and, passing the lighthouse, 
 were soon steaming down the Lake of the 
 Thousand Islands, which I suppose really con 
 tains some seventeen hundred. But what are 
 seventeen hundred islands in this great land? 
 For, listen, ye pleasure seekers, to the charm 
 ing voice of "the famous Black Line," which 
 proposes to take you a three days sail amidst 
 
 13 
 
194 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 the hundred thousand islands of the Georgian 
 Bay. Well done, Canada ! 
 
 On some of these thousand islands are hotels 
 of great proportions, surrounded by clusters of 
 houses; while on others are nice little villas, 
 summer-houses, and many tents. People come 
 in crowds to these islands, great and small, 
 during the summer months, and the winter 
 finds the huge hotels closed, and the islands 
 almost lifeless because summerless. Many of 
 us purchased the " Phat Boy s " delineations of 
 the St. Lawrence River, a panoramic sketch 
 some nine feet long, which instructs the tourist 
 as to the navigation, and informs him of all 
 the marvels, beauties, and enchantments of this 
 wonderful waterway. Both sides of the river are 
 given, and the map is drawn by scale from the 
 United States coast survey, and therefore must 
 be pretty accurate. From Lake Ontario the 
 waters of this river flow through sundry other 
 lakes, the longest of which I think is twenty- 
 eight miles, and the broadest about ten miles. 
 Then the innumerable channels running 
 between the islands, the flowing rivers received, 
 are all points of wonder ; but, oh my ! the 
 Rapids are the exciting, sensational, tumultuous, 
 living, uproarious item, which makes the St. 
 
Montreal. 195 
 
 Lawrence a terror to some, a joy to others, and 
 a marvel to all. 
 
 The first of the rapids is called "The 
 Gallop," which the steamer gallops ; and miles 
 farther down we enter the " Long Sault," and 
 we rush along a veritable boiling sea, at the 
 rate of twenty miles an hour, without steam. 
 
 This is described like an ocean in a storm ; 
 and certainly I have never anywhere seen such 
 pitching and tossing, and it was a real " long " 
 assault, but our trembling, straining vessel went 
 ahead all right, through these nine miles of 
 angry rushing waves, which seem like a great 
 battlefield, where each man fights for his own 
 hand. 
 
 This is called " shooting the rapids." Some 
 say it is tobogganing; well, it may be, but 
 remember you are on pitching waters, more 
 than strong enough to pitch the steamer and 
 its freight, if for a moment uncontrolled, into 
 an abyss from which no life would be returned. 
 
 You glide down the Cedar rapids ; then the 
 exciting Cascade rapids, with their white-crested 
 waves ; then the river expands in lake-like 
 dimensions, where a portion or division of the 
 Ottawa River joins its forces with the St. 
 Lawrence \ then you come to the lengthy railway 
 
196 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 bridge which opens an arm to let you through ; 
 and then yes ! and then your very soul quakes 
 with fear as you approach the terrible Lachine 
 rapids, through which an old Indian pilot used 
 to take the steamers. 
 
 He is no more, and others have his haz 
 ardous duties to perform. The guide-book 
 talks about the joyous excitement, and people 
 wishing the shoot was longer. Mr. Guide 
 Director, please understand that there is one 
 man in the universe who wishes nothing of the 
 sort, for I was very glad to get safely down this 
 awful gorge with its threatening, plunging 
 waters. 
 
 You see the ugly rocks on both sides the 
 steamer, and you wonder how you will pass in 
 safety those sailors ghosts which are sometimes 
 covered with water, the next moment peeping 
 angrily just above. Mighty, powerful torrent, 
 I have seen thy glory and felt the same ! But, 
 no more ! no more ! Two gentlemen of very 
 strong determination had a long discussion as 
 to whether the steamer grazed the rocks. 
 
 Some said the steamer did strike the rock, 
 Some leaned to the water concussion ; 
 
 But all must admit we did feel a shock, 
 Without any further discussion. 
 
Montreal. 197 
 
 Our two naval companions were appealed 
 to, but one was certain it was the force of the 
 water dashing against the steamer, and the 
 other was equally firm in his opinion that she 
 felt the rocks. 
 
 Whichever is right, it was a terrible, hard, 
 bumping sensation, and I suppose our dis 
 putants will go on until doomsday, each 
 sticking like an Englishman to his opinion, 
 something after the style mentioned in the song, 
 as to whether the cut was produced by a knife 
 or scissors. Go at it, gentlemen, I like your 
 pertinacity. You are the best of friends and 
 the most jovial of companions. 
 
 The entertainment has been a good one, and 
 if you will cease for a few moments I will just 
 sing you, for a change, my sonnet to the glory 
 of the might of these rapids and their terrible 
 belongings : 
 
 Terrific volume, which assails 
 
 The active mind with gruesome tales 
 
 Of what might be 
 
 If chains should break, or steersmen fail, 
 On any steamer which should sail 
 
 Down thy swift sea. 
 
 My aspirations will not soar 
 To shoot thy rapids any more 
 They are too rough : 
 
198 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 And to those who may e er invite 
 I ll answer straight, but yet polite, 
 Once is enough. 
 
 Impetuous power ! thy frenzied whirl 
 Could without effort quickly hurl 
 
 Each leaping bark. 
 If for a moment uncontrolled, 
 With ease within thy fearful hold, 
 
 Ghostly and dark. 
 
 Let daring spirits down thee sail 
 Whose courage never seems to fail 
 
 In dangers great : 
 To them I yield, and step aside, 
 And those may down thy waters glide 
 
 Who fear no fate. 
 
 For I have no desire to haste 
 Thy jolting agony to taste, 
 
 Or see thee rage 
 With fury and fantastic might, 
 Conjecture forces, which aright 
 
 No mind can gauge. 
 
 But I shall say, * Lachine, farewell 1 
 And, though I do admire right well 
 
 Thy raging pranks, 
 
 Yet should time calm my dread of thee, 
 I will behold thy surging sea 
 
 From off thy banks. " 
 
 Gentlemen, while you are discussing, please 
 find out if it is true that one-third of the fresh 
 
Montreal. 1 99 
 
 water of the globe flows down these rapids to 
 the great gulf below. 
 
 And now, gentlemen, look at those fine spires 
 and domes : this is beautiful Montreal, and you 
 are driving beneath the Victoria Bridge, in 
 augurated by His Royal Highness the Prince of 
 Wales in 1860. Remember the extreme length 
 of this bridge is nearly two miles, it has 
 250,000 tons of stone in its pillars, and 6000 
 tons of iron were used in constructing its 
 tubes. Remember, also, it cost $7,000,000 to 
 erect. 
 
 But come, please, we are at the quay step 
 ashore, enter your carriage, drive to the " Hotel 
 Windsor," and you shall have comfortable 
 quarters and a good dinner. 
 
 It is a first-class hotel, and I may reiterate 
 the opinion of " A Frenchman in the United 
 States and Canada " : 
 
 For know this famous Frenchman said. 
 
 Whose name is Max O Rell, 
 Of all those I have stayed at here 
 
 This is the best hotel. 
 
 Certainly we liked this hotel yes, very, very 
 well ; for " we two " were specially attended to 
 by one of the most intelligent and obliging 
 
20O Across the Atlantic. 
 
 waiters it would be possible to find. The 
 weather was charming, so the Sunday at 
 Montreal was a kind of red-letter day, for we 
 were able to see much of the religious side of 
 the present inhabitants of " Ville-Marie." 
 
 They have much to be proud of in the 
 number and greatness of their churches ; and 
 the vast majority of Montrealers are anything 
 but atheistical, for even the outward evidences 
 clearly indicate the existence of a widespread 
 conviction that there is a God who should be 
 worshipped. 
 
 The population of this quickly growing 
 business centre will probably now number 
 about 250,000 souls. Three-fifths of these are 
 of French extraction, one-third Scotch and 
 English, and the remainder will be Irish. No 
 doubt there are a few of other nationalities. As 
 regards the religious census, I suppose this 
 would reveal the fact that two-thirds are Roman 
 Catholics and one-third Protestants. 
 
 The present Mayor belongs to the former 
 religion ; but he made a very sensible speech, 
 and gave the "Christian Endeavour Convention" 
 a hearty welcome to the city a little before our 
 visit, although this may be styled a purely Pro 
 testant organisation. Of course this generously 
 
Montreal. 201 
 
 broad spirit is not always displayed, and I 
 understand that this Convention was almost the 
 cause of a great riot between these two classes 
 of religionists. However, this was averted, and a 
 discreditable exhibition of animosity prevented. 
 Now here, the Roman Catholics set an 
 example, as elsewhere, to our Protestant friends 
 which is very worthy of imitation, showing 
 the great strength and desirable idea of Unity ; 
 for even in connection with this Convention 
 I notice there are twenty-seven various Churches 
 represented ; and this evidence of disunity is 
 noticed where there is more cohesiveness 
 among Protestants than is found in many 
 countries. This represents a great loss of force, 
 which if concentrated could be more effectually 
 used, beside creating what is yearly becoming 
 a very formidable difficulty religious compe 
 tition. In the United Kingdom no careful 
 observer can overrate this, for in many cases it 
 is becoming a life-and-death struggle to keep 
 the finances right. This requires a vast pro 
 portion of available energy, and so the cause of 
 religion suffers, and many influential men who 
 are good givers, and are closely connected with 
 one or other of these actively competing though 
 friendly forces, are simply paving the way to a 
 
2O2 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 premature grave through the perpetual anxiety 
 their official position entails. 
 
 This is a very sad state of things, seeing there 
 is little or no difference between many of these 
 religious bodies, whose only chance now seems 
 to be that of imitating their wiser Roman 
 Catholic friends, and uniting the scattered frag 
 ments of imperfect pieces in one solid, substantial 
 whole. 
 
 The anxious inquirer asks "Why should 
 these things be?" And the echo answers, 
 " Why ? " Then, should the Church of England 
 be disendowed, which many of these denomina 
 tions demand, the money pressure will become 
 greater still. 
 
 Now, if we take some of our country villages 
 as an example, in their straggling street we find, 
 say one church and six chapels you cannot 
 find the people to fill them ; but the money for 
 their support has to be found in this limited 
 area, and what is the result? Generally huge 
 debts, and the main effort made is of a business 
 character, to the neglect of those holier duties 
 for which these places of worship are intended. 
 Then you have a poverty-stricken ministry, and 
 the ministers of Montreal would be placed in an 
 awkward position if their income were limited 
 
Montreal. 203 
 
 to i per week = $5. Now, from what I can 
 gather, the competition in Montreal has not 
 descended to this position of want and misery, 
 for in most instances the minister is considered 
 worthy of his hire, and has certainly the means 
 provided to keep body and soul together. 
 Recently I heard an official of Congregationalism 
 draw a most sorrowful picture of the position 
 of their Church Aid Society, which he described 
 as being on the rocks, and likely to be wrecked 
 for want of funds. He had been in one 
 country district in England, and found their 
 ministers received some 60 a year, and some 
 a little more, and the Church Aid Society had 
 given to this group of churches ,200 a year 
 towards this limited ministerial income ; but, 
 alas! the probability was this grant would 
 cease for lack of funds. 
 
 I had the opportunity of forming what I 
 think is about a correct idea of the financial 
 position of the various Churches here. The 
 Roman Catholics are most highly favoured in 
 this respect, for they have extensive endow 
 ments, and probably "the Church of England 
 in Canada " would come off the worst. The 
 Methodists are strong numerically in proportion 
 to the Protestant population, and fairly well 
 
2O4 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 off, but the Church with the greatest number of 
 wealthy members will be the Presbyterian. 
 
 Probably enterprising Scotchmen have made 
 most of the advantages, and have secured 
 wealth in good measure through their natural 
 sagacity. 
 
 Well, the city may be complimented upon 
 the many churches she possesses, whatever 
 denominations they may belong to. 
 
 Thy churches and thy homes of prayer 
 Must make thee famous everywhere 
 
 Where signs of peace, 
 Of righteousness and love can raise 
 Appreciative notes of praise, 
 
 And joy increase. 
 
 Thy towers and steeples and each dome 
 Denoting worship has a home 
 
 Also proclaims, 
 
 The glory, honour, and the might 
 Of God, the true, the infinite, 
 
 Who ever reigns. 
 
 The King of kings, He is supreme, 
 And bright acknowledgments are seen 
 
 In Montreal ; 
 
 Owning that she will recognise 
 The Ruler of earth, seas, and skies, 
 
 The Lord of all. 
 
 Divergencies of thought and creed 
 There may be ; but be still agreed 
 In this one thing, 
 
Montreal. 205 
 
 To glorify and gladly own 
 The majesty, the power, the throne 
 Of God your King. 
 
 This central thought should be the ground 
 On which you should your Churches found ; 
 
 This will unite 
 
 By holy bonds pure love can bring, 
 Make different creeds in chorus sing 
 
 One thing is right. 
 
 Glory then give, and hearts inspire 
 To praise -\vith living tongues of fire, 
 
 Which will ignite 
 The smoking flax, produce a flame, 
 Which will surround Jehovah s name 
 
 With glorious light. 
 
 We commenced the Sunday by attending St. 
 John s Church, to which some of our friends 
 were going, stating it belonged to their Guild, 
 which, I think, was the C.B.S. This church 
 was what church-people call " high," whatever 
 that phrase may mean. The three clergy who 
 officiated appeared men of middle age, but 
 the organist was said to be only twelve years 
 old. The sermon was a good one, delivered 
 with much oratorical effect, and I think with 
 out the aid of notes ; not one of those long 
 extemporaneous discourses made up of repe 
 titions, repeated and repeated with little 
 
206 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 variation, but a concise, well-put-together ex 
 hortation, having one central idea, surrounded 
 by thoughts presented in a flowery, attractive 
 fashion ; a sermon calculated to lift up, 
 whether the preacher was " high," " low," or 
 " broad." 
 
 We also came in for a portion of the sermon 
 in Christ Church Cathedral, and heard a solo 
 given by some unseen being, which we could 
 not decide, until inquiring, whether boy or 
 lady. The lady, which it proved to be, sang 
 an arrangement of " Sun of my Soul " in a 
 very sweet fashion, and we compliment Miss 
 Normandine upon her musical attainments. 
 
 This cathedral is said to be the most perfect 
 specimen of English Gothic architecture in 
 America or Canada, and is surmounted by a 
 spire 224 ft. high. 
 
 Dominion Square, in which our hotel is 
 situated, is quite decorated with churches ; we 
 have the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. 
 Peter, which is after the same plan as St. 
 Peter s, Rome, but on a smaller scale. It will 
 be a magnificent edifice when fully completed, 
 but the cost of the decorations proposed will be 
 very great. Then we have the very beautiful 
 Church of St. George (Episcopalian), with its 
 
Montreal. 207 
 
 fine internal decorations ; and, if I am not 
 mistaken, this is one of the best supported of 
 the many Episcopalian Churches in the diocese 
 of Montreal. 
 
 The American Presbyterians have also a 
 fine structure here ; and the Methodists have a 
 church with which they may be content. In 
 the afternoon I noticed the side door of this 
 church open, and I ventured inside. There 
 was no service proper, but in the finely 
 furnished basement the Sunday School was 
 held, and I was invited to enter. On taking a 
 seat, a gentleman handed me "The Canadian 
 Hymnal," from which a selection was sung to 
 one of those negro-like melodies with a rolling, 
 easy flow, which makes you sing whether you 
 know the tune or not. The room was a very 
 gem compared with many Sunday Schools I 
 have seen : clean, well lighted, nicely ventilated, 
 and comfortable. The classes were formed like 
 one of those groups you see in some Parisian 
 resorts, where a company of friends form them 
 selves into a circle and enjoy their open-air 
 friendly chat. 
 
 The lesson was concluded, and the Superin 
 tendent mounted a platform with a few officials. 
 
 The secretary gave the numbers present and 
 
2o8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 the result of the day s collection ; then the 
 superintendent invited the opinions of those who 
 could suggest any thoughts on the day s lesson. 
 Several adult members of the minister s class, 
 and some of the teachers, ventured a few 
 remarks, and though the proceedings did not 
 assume anything like a discussion, still there 
 were a variety of ideas presented. We had 
 another hymn, and the school concluded with 
 prayer. 
 
 I was then taken in hand by one of the 
 officials, who very kindly gave me much infor 
 mation, and sent me a packet of pamphlets to 
 the hotel in the evening. 
 
 This school, with its Sunday offerings, and by 
 boxes and cards, gives nearly $1000 a year to the 
 missionary cause ; and this is in addition to 
 thousands of dollars the church raises for this 
 and other similar noble purposes, after furnishing 
 the minister s stipend of $2000 a year. To avoid 
 numerous collections, " the envelope system " 
 has been here tried with marked success, as 
 the Church s financial position reveals. The 
 Methodists seem to be content with this name, 
 without any of those prefatory ones we find in 
 the old country, so I cannot tell my Methodist 
 friends in England to which particular class of 
 
Montreal. 209 
 
 their order this church belongs ; but I can tell 
 them this is a very bright, prosperous community, 
 with property now valued at $120,000, but 
 which cost actually the following sums, the 
 increase, I suppose, is represented in the 
 valuable plot this church covers, 
 
 DOLLARS. 
 
 Land, 1864, 21,913^ feet, @ 3150. . . . 8,552.93 
 
 Church 27,703.00 
 
 Church Furniture (first year) .... 1,385.83 
 
 Organ, 1865 1,200.00 
 
 Sexton s Lodge, 1872 2,132.99 
 
 Parsonage, 1877 5,568.92 
 
 Furnishing Parsonage, paid by Trustees . . 2,555.96 
 Repairs and Improvements of Church, at various 
 
 dates . . 5,124.77 
 
 Organ, 1886 .... 7,070.24 \ 
 
 Less old organ and discounts 1,220.00 } ^ 5 2 4 
 Schoolroom and Parlour (Annex), 1887, and 
 
 Furniture 5,172,67 
 
 Schoolroom Alterations and Decorations, 1891 . 2,821.58 
 
 Total $68,065-89 
 
 Now my new-found acquaintance became 
 quite friendly with me, for he was a Liverpool 
 man, and from my living so near there we almost 
 struck up a sort of relationship. From what I 
 could gather at the school, I inferred there was 
 a strong temperance element overruling. 1 
 ventured to ask if the Methodists made this 
 a special feature in their teaching. 
 
 14 
 
2io Across the Atlantic. 
 
 "Well," said he, "some twenty years ago, 
 when I came to live here, I drank beer, but I 
 gave it up. I have also given up smoking." 
 
 "Why?" Tasked. 
 
 "Well," he replied, "I had a little boy, about 
 seven years of age " (from the feeling way the 
 speaker adopted, I concluded the little boy 
 had gone home), "and he saw me smoking a 
 cigar. He had never seen me smoke before, 
 and was so surprised and disturbed about it that 
 I felt I was depreciated very much in his 
 estimation in consequence, and I did not smoke 
 again." 
 
 Probably the little fellow had been taught by 
 some one that this was a degrading practice, 
 and therefore to see his own father smoke was 
 a great blow to him. I walked with my friend 
 and his little daughter to his house, and then 
 he accompanied me to the greatest Church the 
 Methodists possess here. 
 
 On the way thither I noticed St. James s 
 Episcopalian Church ; and as I read the notice 
 " Strangers are welcome : a seat for all," I 
 thought this was the place of worship we would 
 attend in the evening. 
 
 On reaching the cathedral-like building we 
 found it closed, so I had to make another 
 
Montreal. 2 1 1 
 
 pilgrimage thither in the evening, when my 
 good lady accompanied me. 
 
 On entering, before the service commenced, 
 I was instructed by one of the apparitors to 
 go to the vestry, and the sexton would give me 
 all information. 
 
 Well, we knocked at the vestry door, and a 
 very polite, good-looking gentleman received us, 
 and this turned lout to be the minister on 
 duty. 
 
 We were duly introduced to the sexton (why 
 the name ?), and he asked us to wait until the 
 service commenced, and then he would be 
 at liberty. This we did ; and in the vestry 
 we ascertained much we wanted to know. 
 This church, with its aisle-extending seats, will 
 hold 2500 persons, and cost, including the 
 organ, $315,000. This sum was raised, prin 
 cipally, I understand, by the demolition of the 
 old church, and erecting on its site the Temple 
 Buildings, which, I believe, let at a rental of 
 $29,000, so by this transformation, and raising 
 money upon it, they erected this wonderful 
 edifice ; and, as far as I can define the position, 
 this would be left entirely free, and something 
 to the good, if the other property were sold. 
 It is called St. James s Methodist Church, and 
 
212 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 this is the invitation issued to the Dedicatory 
 Services : 
 
 "The Pastor has much pleasure, on behalf of the 
 Trustees and Official Board, in tendering you a cordial 
 invitation to be present at one or more of the Dedicatory 
 Services of their New Church Edifice, June i6th, 23rd, 
 30th, 1889." 
 
 Well, the sexton handed us over to " George," 
 whom he informed us knew more than he did. 
 
 Now this elderly interesting personage showed 
 to us the Church s records, which are of great 
 historical worth, giving the story of the rise 
 and progress of this denomination. The book 
 contains the portraits, or some literary evi 
 dence, of all the ministers who have been in 
 charge. 
 
 Some of these patriarchal faces beam with 
 a living intelligence, for it must be admitted 
 many lived to a good old age. " George " 
 could tell a great deal about many of them, 
 and on one he placed his finger, and said " That 
 man went wrong." 
 
 They must have had some charming men in 
 the olden times, and it seemed to me the past 
 heroes of the faith greatly excelled many of 
 those coming after in the facial records of 
 sincerity, refinement, and goodness. 
 
Montreal. 2 1 3 
 
 Well, we saw the church, heard of the fine 
 school adjoining, heard the singers, and then 
 we hastened to St. James s Episcopal Church. 
 
 The clergyman of this church was away in 
 England, but I secured a copy of the proceed 
 ings of the thirty-fourth annual synod of the 
 Diocese of Montreal from the verger when 
 the service concluded. From this I gather 
 that the clergy of the Church are not paid so 
 well as their Methodistical and other con 
 temporaries, though the churchman s work 
 here is evidently great, but it must be one of 
 love, and not one for filthy lucre s sake. The 
 proceedings contain, along with much matter 
 of importance, the report of the committee on 
 the " Better Observance of the Lord s Day" ; and 
 I was very thankful the Church to which I 
 have always belonged should take such a valiant 
 stand for the Sabbath, and rejoices over the fact 
 that, among the cheering signs, " the Congress 
 of the United States by its national decree has 
 enacted that the World s Columbian Exhibition 
 at Chicago should not be open to the public on 
 the Lord s Day." The committee came to the 
 conclusion that it would be well to petition 
 the Dominion Parliament in favour of "such 
 legislation as will best secure to all Her 
 
214 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Majesty s subjects in Canada the undisturbed 
 observance of the Lord s Day." 
 
 This is nothing but just, seeing that "the 
 Sabbath was made for man, and not man for 
 the Sabbath." 
 
 Well, I notice at this annual session of the 
 Synod, the Lord Bishop of Montreal, the Right 
 Rev. W. B. Bond, LL.D., gave a very impressive, 
 well- designed, eloquent address ; in fact, one of 
 those earnest appeals which must prove effective 
 in the direction intended. His Lordship de 
 scribes the work of the Church as follows : 
 
 " In certain aspects the business of the 
 Church is a warfare a warfare against ignorance, 
 vice, and all the evil which we find around us 
 in a wicked world. In other aspects it is a 
 building up of all that is strong and true, all 
 that is lovely and of good report ; the main 
 business of the Church is to gain victory after 
 victory over sin and evil, and to establish in 
 Christ s name, and for Christ s sake, truth and 
 righteousness in the world. 
 
 Branch of the ancient Church, fight as in days of old 
 The prophets and apostles did engage in war ; 
 
 May all thy ministers be faithful, and so bold 
 
 That angels will behold with joy, and sing from far, 
 With one loud voice, " Well done " 
 
Montreal. 2 \ 5 
 
 Build up, good ministers of Christ, the strong, the true ; 
 
 All that is lovely and of good report retain ; 
 Then will your Master at the close present to you 
 
 The victor s crown of life, and you shall glory gain, 
 And rest and peace have won. 
 
 The Church of England in Canada has a 
 grand work before her, and I hope she will 
 gain, what she deserves, a very prosperous 
 future. She has had her period of gloom, her 
 difficulties, many trials, and much up-hill work ; 
 but successes she has secured, and her sincere 
 motives, well-founded belief, inspired impulses 
 animate her sons and daughters with the hope 
 that she will now go on conquering and to 
 conquer. The radiancy of hope sparkles 
 throughout the Bishop s address, and his con 
 cluding remarks are worthy to be chronicled in 
 letters of gold : 
 
 " In reviewing the work of the year, I cannot 
 recall one serious cause for discouragement, but 
 abundant cause for praise, as we trust in the 
 living God. Surely, as we consider all the way 
 the Lord has led us and blessed us, we should 
 trust with a firmer faith, and anew consecrate 
 ourselves, every power and energy, to the 
 service of God and His Church. Beloved, let 
 us devoutly unite as a Synod, in the prayer : 
 
216 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Father, show us what we ought to do, and 
 give us grace and power faithfully to fulfil the 
 same. Amen. " 
 
 Trust in the living God, and daily pray, recall 
 
 The way the Lord has led your footsteps in the past. 
 
 There is abundant cause for praise, so ever call 
 Upon that Power which never fails, and ever cast, 
 For future aid, your care, 
 
 On God, the Lord, the Mighty ! Consecrate anew 
 Your souls and bodies to His all-wise, blessed will ; 
 
 His holy blessing from above will rest on you, 
 
 The power of His good spirit will be with you still, 
 And will your way prepare. 
 
 In Dominion Square, in addition to the 
 churches we have mentioned, there is a very 
 imposing recently erected building, belonging 
 to the Young Men s Christian Association, six 
 stories high, built at a cost of $160,000, and 
 stands 125 ft. high. Some twenty years ago the 
 old hall was raised at $40,000, so the modern 
 requirements and expansion call for a building 
 four times as costly as the old. The guide 
 book speaks of the discarded one as something 
 very fine, but this new one really is up to date. 
 It possesses library, baths, room and appliances 
 for popular physical recreation, reception hall, 
 parlours and lecture halls, the largest of these 
 
Montreal, 2 1 7 
 
 having sitting accommodation for 600 persons. 
 The baths include swimming, needle, shower, 
 etc., and cupboards are provided for each 
 member with Millar s Combination Lock. This 
 is a most ingenious arrangement, and I under 
 stand that some eight hundred different kinds 
 are produced ; each one can be altered and in 
 some way registered, so that if a member fails in 
 his subscriptions, or for any other cause, his lock 
 can be so adapted that it would be impossible for 
 him to open. This institution seems to be 
 doing a good work, and the building has been 
 raised something after the same fashion as the 
 great Methodist Church. The Association also 
 has a large income through letting its upper 
 stories for offices, etc., which are reached by an 
 elevator. These Canadians seem to be working 
 out the idea pretty extensively of selling old 
 institutions in the business part of the city, 
 and then erecting far more magnificent ones 
 with the proceeds. The library contains four 
 thousand volumes, and the educational de 
 partment seems to be well worked, with 
 the modern addition of "a current topic 
 club," which is useful in training in public 
 speech. 
 
 On Monday morning, before leaving this great 
 
2i8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 inland seaport for 1 suppose it is some six 
 or seven hundred miles from the open ocean 
 I went to see, for private reasons, a gentleman 
 connected with one of the great businesses here. 
 Well, after chatting over matters which cannot 
 be mentioned, he gave me one of the most 
 patriotic lectures that I have heard for some 
 time. The fire within was burning, and very 
 words of fire appeared to flow from the man s 
 inmost soul. He is one of the most loyal 
 subjects of her most gracious Majesty Queen 
 Victoria, but his views of Canada s relation to 
 England were strong and decided, and his idea 
 is this : that if the mother country had done 
 her duty, Canada would have had three times 
 her population. He argued his opinions in 
 such an able manner, and supported them by 
 such strong reasons, that there was no gain 
 saying or disputing his conclusions. 
 
 England shows Canada no sympathy in her 
 aspirations ; there has not been that fostering 
 care of a parent ; her wishes are utterly dis 
 regarded, and her upward progress clogged. 
 Well, America looks on with lingering, longing 
 eyes, eager and willing to make friends with 
 Canada ; and from what I can see, America 
 would do more for her prosperity than England 
 
Montreal. 2 1 9 
 
 is prepared to do. But Canada is loyal, yes, 
 loyal to the backbone, and it does seem a 
 thousand pities that we decline to listen to her 
 pleadings, and do not show some disposition 
 to meet her desires. 
 
 How long will England pursue a policy of 
 unsympathetic treatment to her dependencies ? 
 Here we have one in heart, as true as steel, 
 but without having the slightest advantage 
 offered other than that meted out to strangers. 
 
 The child may become greater than the 
 parent, and the latter may sometime sigh, 
 when it is too late, for the sympathy and help 
 of her children. 
 
 Now is the time for true patriotism to exert 
 itself; and either by Imperial Federation, or 
 other suggested means, every effort should be 
 made and any sacrifice rendered to bring about 
 a lasting compact, a firm understanding, so that 
 the cementing process may make as one happy, 
 large, prosperous family, the glorious country to 
 which we belong and her many lands beyond 
 the seas. Would that our M.lYs could have 
 heard the oration my friend delivered to me, 
 which has left a lasting impression ; for his ideas 
 are those of the vast majority who love England 
 intensely, but require the love of a parent in 
 
220 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 return, for without reciprocity how can the 
 flame be kept alive? 
 
 I saw in one Canadian journal a good thing 
 in the shape of an invitation to the Americans, 
 who crave for the country, to come and live 
 there, on the principle of " Come unto us and 
 we will do thee good." 
 
 Canada is a fine land, with immense possi 
 bilities, great scope for gigantic developments, 
 and should be looked upon as a real treasure 
 by England. Now what shall we do ? have all 
 our own way, and ignore the requirements of 
 our friends here, and ultimately lose them, or 
 shall we act on a more generous and equitable 
 basis, and treat the opinions of this mighty 
 dominion with respect ? 
 
 If the electorate of the United Kingdom 
 only knew what we shall part with if we lose 
 Canada, their patriotism would exert itself and 
 cry, " It shall not be done ! " 
 
 England s greatest foes are those of her own 
 household ; but may her people be wise in time, 
 and continue to build up and extend, not pull 
 down and destroy, the noble structure erected 
 by our high-minded forefathers, who positively 
 were willing to march through fields of fire 
 and blood for the honour and glory of dear old 
 
Montreal. 221 
 
 England. Let England s sons arise in all the 
 beauty of true manhood, and declare with no 
 uncertain sound that the prestige of our empire 
 shall be maintained, and the work of our 
 country-loving predecessors continued, and so 
 present to the world the spectacle of the 
 mightiest, happiest, and most prosperous self- 
 contained nation on the face of the earth. 
 
 Farewell, Canada, and thy fair city Montreal : 
 I love thee and want to keep thee ! 
 
 If I were England I would bind thee to my heart, 
 And whisper you and I must never, never part ; 
 If I were England I would more than well behave, 
 And give thee all, or even more than thou dost crave 
 
 But, Canada, still keep true, 
 
 Do not yet sever ; 
 Stick to the red, white, and blue, 
 
 And Union for ever. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE HUDSON RIVER. 
 
 Thy gorgeous panoramas, thy floating halls of splendour 
 Shall all again appear to me when thoughts their homage 
 
 render, 
 
 To thee, sweet sparkling river, fair, the picturesque, the grand, 
 For thou mayest with the best, we know, in competition stand ! 
 
 ON Monday morning about ten o clock we 
 left the Windsor Hotel, Dominion Square, 
 Montreal, and were presented with a bright 
 souvenir in the shape of a book with photo 
 graphic transfers of the city, and also of this 
 hotel and some of its fine rooms. The grand 
 dining room will seat 500, the concert hall, as 
 such, 1500, or for dancing finds space for 
 1000, or for banqueting purposes 600. The 
 promenade, parlours, hall, reception, and other 
 rooms are also shown ; and as we departed it 
 was with the first impressions of the hotel fully 
 confirmed. The line we travel by crosses the 
 great river, with its 27 J ft. deep navigable 
 channel, by the celebrated Victoria tubular 
 
The Hudson River. 223 
 
 bridge before mentioned, and we take a last 
 look of the city, with its beautifully wooded 
 mountain background, its domes and spires, 
 and the great ocean steamers lining its quays. 
 
 We leave thee, splendid city. 
 And think, What a great pity 
 
 Should we lose thee ! 
 For them art quickly growing. 
 And truly there s no knowing, 
 
 What thou wilt be. 
 
 Weil, we had the pleasantest day s railway 
 travelling of our experiences on this journey. 
 The scenery along the line is exquisite. On 
 one side we have Lake Champlain and its 
 numerous tributaries, and the mountains across 
 its blue calm waters miles away. Then on the 
 other side we have a sight of the Adirondack 
 Mountains with their abutments, which provide 
 such exciting sport for the hunter. 
 
 The sportsman in the season 
 Could not find cause or reason 
 
 To make complaint 
 Because around his shanty 
 The game was rather scanty, 
 
 Because it ain t. 
 
 They lunch you well en route, and if you feel 
 the inside of the car too hot you can take a 
 seat on the steps of the outside platform. Here 
 
224 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 you seem to be whirling through the air ; for 
 these trains go at a great speed, and at every 
 unprotected place on the line the powerful bell 
 these engines all carry is swung to and fro, 
 and, you can, if so willed, imagine it is a band 
 accompaniment. 
 
 The engine bell keeps ringing 
 As rushing miles are bringing 
 
 Scenes rich and fair ; 
 And while you feel enchanted 
 In memory they are planted 
 
 To blossom there. 
 
 The flowing streams with their finny treasures 
 murmur their appeals invitingly to those 
 passengers who honour the favourite pastime 
 of Isaac Walton, for 
 
 Anglers can find good fishing, 
 And need not long be wishing 
 
 For favoured spots 
 To suit their special notions, 
 For fish are here in oceans 
 
 In fact, there s lots ! 
 
 Before crossing the frontier an officer entered 
 the car, and he was a man who could crack 
 a joke with the wittiest of our party. Our 
 baggage was passed upon appearances only 
 and the pledged honour of our conductor, so 
 we had not the annoyance of rolling over our 
 
The Hudson River. 225 
 
 souvenirs, etc., etc. Perhaps I escaped the 
 officer s attention, for my appearance must be 
 rather shady, as I was once publicly arrested 
 as a suspected Fenian, or something of the sort. 
 This, of course, had not to be told the party, or 
 I might have been expelled, and I should have 
 been the black sheep, and the members could 
 not have sung so unitedly as they did, 
 
 A happy, well-made party 
 Of friends as true and hearty 
 
 As you could find ; 
 Each bent on giving pleasure, 
 Which is returned in measure 
 
 Of the same kind. 
 
 So it is well to keep these dark sides of life 
 in the background, or else there might have 
 been sundry significant whisperings, nudgings, 
 side-looks, and thumb-pointing observations, 
 and perhaps friendship s song would have been 
 followed by this : 
 
 But let each one resolve on keeping 
 His cautious eye from ever sleeping, 
 
 For no one knows 
 
 Who s who. For even some relator 
 Of friendly tales may be a traitor : 
 
 The worst of foes. 
 
 Of course the suspected Fenian or murderer, 
 which I forget, enjoyed himself certainly as 
 
226 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 much as the more eminently respectable per 
 sons, who had never been in the hands of 
 the police; and really a criminal could hardly 
 have done otherwise, for the scene of varied 
 beauty through which we rolled was of a very 
 striking character. 
 
 Great lakes and lovely mountains, 
 Cascades like flowing fountains. 
 
 Which ever, ever stream : 
 Rich, verdant vegetation, 
 Nature in variation, 
 
 In richest beauty seen. 
 
 In the afternoon we made a short stay at Sara 
 toga, justly celebrated for its numerous springs, 
 possessing many virtues. From what I hear of 
 them they have sundry peculiarities, which 
 probably the chemist or the doctor could far 
 better explain than myself, so I leave the reader 
 to search the writings of the learned, to as 
 certain their several remarkable medicinal 
 properties. The place is one of the most 
 aristocratic resorts on this continent; and in 
 the season, which was at its height, the visitors 
 numbered more than twice the permanent 
 population. The name, I read, has not a very 
 aristocratic derivation, for it comes from an 
 Indian word meaning " the place of herrings," 
 
The Hudson River. 227 
 
 which arose from the fact of these plentiful 
 fish ascending the Hudson River to the Sara 
 toga Lake. 
 
 We had not sufficient time to see all the 
 sights of this " oldest country resort/ but we 
 saw its fine hotels, tree-lined thoroughfares, 
 well-stocked stores, and quite enough to en 
 courage the wish to stay and see more. 
 
 We were like Oliver Twist, still hungry and 
 wanted more, if we did not venture as far as 
 his audacity led him, and ask for it. The 
 largest private park in America is here, and its 
 generous owner permits the visitors to drive 
 along its thirty miles of well-made roadways. 
 Apart from the healing springs there is a fine 
 fresh-water spring, bringing up its unadulterated 
 beverage six hundred feet from the rocky holds 
 below. I have read somewhere that Sir William 
 Johnson was the first white man to visit these 
 springs, and he was carried here by the 
 Mohawks about the middle of the last century. 
 It was nearing its close when the first house was 
 built here, and its builder would hardly think 
 that in a hundred years there would be such a 
 revolution. Now the wealthiest of the wealthy 
 crowd its streets, and dwell in houses or hotels, 
 the mightiest in the world, and drive about in 
 
228 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 costly equipages never dreamed of in the days 
 when the Indians brought their white patient 
 on a litter. We should have liked to have seen 
 the beautiful lake a little distance from the 
 town, and sailed on its twenty square miles of 
 water. Ah ! we must leave. One of our friends 
 who is interested in diamonds, said he had 
 never seen such samples before. But we bid 
 adieu to beautiful Saratoga, its springs, its 
 hotels, its diamonds, its inhabitants, and place 
 our ideas in one single verse : 
 
 Beautiful streets and fine, grand hotels, 
 Famous for springs and health-giving wells, 
 High-stepping horses with bright-ringing bells, 
 Plenty of diamonds and lots of great swells. 
 
 Afternoon tea at the station, and then we 
 proceed to Albany, where we are entertained at 
 Delavan House. This city is the capital of 
 New York State, and is, when compared with 
 some others, quite an ancient place, for we are 
 informed the Dutch had a trading station here 
 in 1614, when it was called Fort Orange, but 
 afterwards named Albany, after the Duke of 
 York and Albany, who, if my historical know 
 ledge serves me aright, became James II. The 
 first thing to be seen is " The Capitol," which 
 is a magnificent structure not yet complete, but 
 
T/ie Hudson River. 229 
 
 on which has been spent, so it is stated, 
 $20,000,000. I hear that with its decorations, 
 etc., it will require $10,000,000 more to finish. 
 It graces a lofty position, and with its tower, 
 over 300 ft. high, will form an interesting 
 object to be looked at by admiring New- York- 
 Staters for many miles around, as well as a 
 continual source of pride to the inhabitants 
 (now about 100,000) of this capital city. 
 
 In the evening I had a solitary ramble in 
 Albany s well-kept park, which, with its orna 
 mental lakes, statuary, groves, and pleasure 
 walks, would be a valued adornment to any city. 
 
 Early in the morning we were all astir, to 
 take one of the most enchanting river rides 
 it is possible to imagine. Our breakfast was 
 promptly served, and at our table were two 
 American ladies very anxious to hear about 
 " The World s Fair." One of these ladies said, 
 " You know, we Americans don t know what 
 it is to be cramped for money " ; and then she 
 explained that the Fair had not been so well 
 patronised through the passing season of de 
 pression now experienced. Almost every one 
 speaking about the Fair wishes to know if it 
 is a failure. Well, as regards it as a fair, it 
 is a magnificent success ; but, say they, it is a 
 
230 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 financial failure. Probably this will have been 
 long printed before the actual figures come to 
 light ; but I am rather of the opinion that there 
 is something in the background ordinary people 
 have not to know. I was speaking to an 
 Englishman who has long been an American 
 citizen on a steamer on Lake Michigan, and 
 he laughed at the idea of the financial disaster 
 of the undertaking. He was a man who had 
 his head screwed on right, and he gave me a 
 look which I understood to mean he knew 
 something on which he based his opinion. 
 
 Of course I ought to explain this gentleman 
 was in a very exuberant frame of mind, for he 
 had made a fine thing out of the Exhibition. 
 
 Some years ago he patented an invention, 
 which was so severely boycotted that he ceased 
 to make it, and the thing had been lying in 
 abeyance. He heard that some firm exhibit 
 ing at the Fair had infringed his patent rights, 
 so he had come from New York specially to see 
 for himself. But fancy his surprise, on finding 
 not just one, but sixteen different firms using 
 his invention ! From what I was told, several 
 at once made him respectable offers to com 
 promise matters, and he no doubt will be 
 greatly benefited by the World s Exposition. 
 
The Hudson River. 231 
 
 He intended to take a turn round another 
 department, for he had another patent running 
 for a domestic article, and he had been in 
 formed this was infringed also. Now, what 
 was the reason this sensible Englishman would 
 not believe in the financial failure of the Fair, 
 I am not able to say ; but he hinted to me a 
 kind of something, that made me come to the 
 conclusion that this is another case of " wheels 
 within wheels." 
 
 Certainly the three best months had to come 
 on, for the weather would be cooler and the 
 better-class Americans would have returned 
 from their European trips, but how the thing 
 will turn out the future must reveal. There 
 will certainly be one great disaster in connection 
 with the Exposition. Whether this belongs to 
 it or to a party of speculators I do not know ; 
 but nearly all visitors there will have noticed 
 the huge building near the lake with its scaffold 
 ing still up, and some three parts completed. 
 This, it is said, was intended for the Show 
 Hotel, and had to contain opera house, etc., etc. 
 It there stands a majestic thing in sorrowful 
 loneliness; and the beholding questioner is 
 informed that the funds ran short, and so it 
 could not be finished. 
 
232 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 But now for the trip down the Hudson, calm, 
 noble, picturesque ; and, though not so wild and 
 expansive as the St. Lawrence, still the timid 
 find more comfort, the peace-loving more rest, 
 and the timorous less of the rushing, tumultuous, 
 dangerous excitement ; for there are no awful 
 rapids, with their fearful tossing and terrific roar, 
 to set the terror bells ringing. 
 
 You purchase the magnificent panorama of 
 the Hudson to aid you geographically, topo 
 graphically, and otherwise. This contains nearly 
 a hundred feet of engravings, or if you take 
 each side of the river double that number. It 
 is described by its publishers as the "first 
 photo-panorama of any river ever published." 
 " One hundred and fifty miles of continuous 
 scenery accurately represented from eight 
 hundred consecutive photographs." Then we 
 are informed that from the metropolis to the 
 capital the Hudson varies in width from 
 half a mile to four miles and a half; but the 
 river remains uniform in these pages, as most 
 convenient for a book of reference or tourist 
 guide. This is a big thing to attempt, but 
 the publishers will probably have found it a 
 remunerative investment, for many purchasers 
 were found on board our steamer, and there 
 
The Hudson River. 233 
 
 is a constant flow of passenger traffic on the 
 Hudson. The sale of this wonderful production 
 must therefore prove enormous. 
 
 It has been favourably noticed by the press, 
 and some may have read the discussion in 
 Tit-Bits on the subject. 
 
 I am not a constant reader of this extra 
 ordinarily successful penny venture, but the 
 publishers of this panoramic guide have con 
 sidered the matter of sufficient importance to 
 reproduce, and so I give it that readers may 
 have a few additional particulars of this artistic 
 success, which is so much admired by those 
 interested in such progressive ventures in photo 
 graphic lithography. 
 
 " AMUSING DISCUSSION IN LONDON. 
 
 " Probably the most exhaustive photographic enter 
 prise ever attempted has been completed 800 negatives 
 of the Hudson taken from mid-stream between New 
 York and Albany. From these Photo-engravings have 
 been made and published, in a book, the shores arranged 
 on each side, with river in the centre of the volume. In 
 this manner has been formed a complete and realistic 
 guide-book of the interesting country of Hendrick Hudson 
 and Rip Van Winkle. Even the enthusiastic lovers of 
 the Thames have not yet achieved anything like this. 
 Tit- Bits, London, August 31, 1889. 
 
 " Referring to paragraph in Tit- Bits as to the con 
 tinuous photograph of the Hudson Mr. Henry W. Taunt 
 
234 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 writes : Although I have not made a continuous series 
 of photographs of the Thames banks, I have beaten by 
 very far the 800 negatives of the Hudson River mentioned 
 in your paper. Up to the present I have over 5000 
 plates of the Thames and its scenes. 
 
 " Yes, that is quite true, Mr. Taunt ; your photos are 
 good and numerous, but of the Hudson River there is a 
 continuous photo, so that you can sit on the steamer and 
 see on the banks exactly what is unfolded to you in the 
 book. Both sides of the river are thus produced, and if 
 Mr. Taunt can see his way to bringing out the Thames 
 in the same manner it will be a boon. Tit-Bits, 
 London, September 14, 1889." 
 
 The places en route give you reminders of 
 names well known to you in the United 
 Kingdom and elsewhere. There is one place 
 called Rhinecliffe, where it is said there is a 
 house two hundred years old, a well-preserved 
 specimen of a Dutch homestead. But although 
 the river and its banks remind you of the Rhine, 
 still- 
 No ancient castles, like the Rhine, 
 Here ever raised their lofty domes ; 
 Baronial halls of olden time 
 Did not claim here their stately homes ; 
 
 For in their day a race would prowl 
 Upon these high, majestic banks, 
 Who would delight in hideous howl, 
 And bloody, warlike, savage pranks. 
 
The Hudson River. 235 
 
 What would this brave, untutored race 
 For Rhineland architecture care ? 
 Their home of rest was but the place 
 Which other savages would share. 
 
 For beasts and men are much the same, 
 Both savage in their wild desires ; 
 Away from influences which tame, 
 One, like the other, but aspires 
 
 To the same level as the brute, 
 With eager thirst for others blood, 
 And all the higher feelings mute 
 Which operate for others good. 
 
 Thus would the Indian hunter spend 
 His days upon these slopes and heights, 
 His cunning arts of warfare lend, 
 In long-continued tribal fights. 
 
 But his old haunts are now the homes, 
 Of those whose ways to peace incline, 
 Though even now those splendid domes 
 Are nowhere seen as on the Rhine. 
 
 Though all around these shores you see 
 The Hudson s glories in sunshine, 
 These traces of antiquity 
 Are only found along the Rhine ; 
 
 But yet, fair Hudson, thou canst boast 
 What ancient Rhinelanders had not ; 
 For icy castles grace thy coast, 
 Not just a few, but quite a lot. 
 
 These factory-like structures along the 
 Hudson are very numerous, and one of our 
 
236 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 party suggested they were saw mills used only 
 in the winter ; but one more knowing at once 
 christened them aright ice houses. Then 
 you meet fleets of barges coming up stream 
 to these ice stores to transmit their precious 
 contents to New York, Brooklyn, and other 
 places. 
 
 "Hudson River by Daylight," a pamphlet 
 given to passengers, has a joke on the ice 
 question, entitled, 
 
 "A QUICK CHANGE. 
 
 " Teacher : When water becomes ice, what is the great 
 change that takes place ? 
 " Pupil : Change in price." 
 
 There are several good sensible articles in 
 this magazine, but the bulk of the other material 
 is on the love question. 
 
 Here are a few headings : " Your Heart and 
 Mine " ; " Love and Age " ; " The Dignity of 
 Love"; "Her Attractions," etc. There are 
 also jokes, poems, and conundrums. Here is 
 one, rather hard on the lady : 
 
 "Father: Do you think your position in life warrants 
 your seeking my daughter s hand in marriage ? 
 
 "Suitor : I think so. sir : I am a lion tamer in Allfore s 
 Circus." 
 
The Hudson River. 237 
 
 We find also inserted the programme of the 
 instrumental concerts given on board. 
 
 These are very attractive, and some strange 
 effects are produced by the drummer, who has, 
 beside the big bass, quite an array of curiosities 
 for sound-producing. 
 
 The day was gloriously fine, and the steamer 
 the very embodiment of all one requires for a 
 river trip. This special steamer had been 
 lengthened by having an addition of 30 feet 
 placed in the centre. It now measures 330 feet 
 long. I fancy this was about the first steamer 
 ever cut in two for the insertion of an extra 
 length, although now the operation, I see, has 
 just been performed on our side the water 
 successfully. Of course they give you a good 
 dinner on board, or lunch, whichever term you 
 like the best ; by this means the human steam is 
 kept up, and you enjoy the entire sail of 145 
 or 150 miles without feeling tired or fatigued. 
 
 Our passengers were for the most part a 
 superior class of people, orderly and well 
 conducted, though some would be considered 
 a little uncommon. After all, the variety existing 
 in humanity is one of its chief charms, and the 
 greater the distinction the more interesting the 
 object. 
 
238 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 We had, I believe, a scientist on board : 
 
 Some were amused at this great man, 
 
 And thought him rather quaint ; 
 Without pretence, disguise, or sham, 
 
 For he did never paint. 
 He was a diamond in the rough, 
 
 The queerest of the queer ; 
 Though doubtless made of sterling stuff, 
 
 A scientific seer. 
 Quite folded up in self, and thought. 
 
 Forgetful of the art 
 Through which some are politeness taught, 
 
 So he could play no part 
 In the great crowds of life around ; 
 
 He could not mix with them, 
 So therefore he alone was found, 
 
 Like some neglected gem, 
 Which never will be seen aright 
 
 While covered o er with dust ; 
 For that which ought to be quite^bright, 
 
 Was only left to rust. 
 
 But perhaps we have a thicker crust 
 
 Of dust and rust than he, 
 So we must only gently thrust 
 
 This human mystery ; 
 And with his failings kindly bear. 
 
 And try ourselves to view 
 Through the same glasses others wear 
 
 While they our faults review ; 
 So shall we find our portraits look 
 
 Perhaps just the very same 
 As this queer mortal s in the book 
 
 Where others place our name. 
 
The Hudson River. 239 
 
 The Hudson Highlands, you notice, have 
 some rather strange names, and it would be 
 interesting to fathom the mystery of their 
 origin. Here are a few, with their altitudes : 
 
 FEET. 
 
 Storm King 
 Crow s Nest . 
 Bull Hill 
 Bear Mountain 
 Anthony s Nose 
 Breakneck 
 Dunderberg 
 
 ,523 
 
 ,486 
 
 ,350 
 ,128 
 
 ,I8 7 
 
 Then you have the Pallisades, from 250 to 
 5 oo ft. high, stretching along the river fifteen or 
 twenty miles in unbroken line. 
 
 At Hudson city you have a fine view of the 
 Catskill mountains ; and to the Catskill landing- 
 stage railway passengers from Albany and New 
 York are ferried across the river. 
 
 These mountains are called " The Mecca " 
 of all pilgrims disposed to scaling mountain 
 heights. 
 
 In these more modern days, however, the 
 Otis Elevating Railway does a great portion 
 of the climb for them. I understand the hotels 
 on these mountains are very luxurious, and 
 views obtained from them ranging over, it is 
 
240 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 stated, 12,000 square miles. Then there is a 
 great park of thousands of acres, and scenery 
 of the superlative kind. All this, to some 
 English readers, may sound like large talk ; 
 but even these things seem rather insignificant 
 beside the mightier works which Nature can 
 show to her admirers in these lands. Go 
 more inland, and you find hotels at an elevation 
 of 6000 ft, with a public park 65 by 55 miles 
 for visitors to exercise their pedestrian accom 
 plishments in; 1 7 80 ft. higher there is a great 
 lake, and this is surrounded by snow-capped 
 mountains, from 2000 to 4000 ft. higher still. 
 Then there are thousands of mammoth hot 
 springs, some of which throw their waters more 
 than i oo ft. in the air. Magnificent waterfalls, 
 one of which has a drop of 360 ft, and its 
 waters then rush down a channel averaging 
 i ooo ft. wide, with great perpendicular walls 
 of about the same height. Here you can 
 reside among natural curiosities, bearing such 
 names as "Old Faithful," "Hell s Half-acre," 
 "Black Warrior Geyser," "Mammoth Paint 
 Pots," etc. But do not imagine, dear reader, 
 that even these stand among the greatest 
 wonders of this wonderful country, for there 
 are mountains yes, a great range estimated 
 
The Hudson River. 241 
 
 to be 300 miles in extent, and which can be 
 seen 100 miles away, some of the highest 
 appearing in their snowy crowns more like 
 clouds. 
 
 The Hudson river gives you only a partial 
 glimpse of the varied grandeur of the features 
 of this great land, and although you have the 
 noble river with its rich belongings, agricultural, 
 architectural, valleys, uplands and mountains, 
 yet, you must understand, you only gaze on one 
 phase of beauty, and that there are many more, 
 if not just of the same type, yet equally glorious 
 in extent and magnificence. 
 
 Our panoramic instructor gives the names 
 of all the houses of note, the cities, towns, 
 villages, institutions, etc., gracing its shores. 
 You pass West Point, where is situated the 
 United States Military Academy on a fine 
 terrace some 150 ft. above the water level. 
 " The Convent of the Sacred Heart," " Four 
 mile point Lighthouse," " Overlook Mountain " 
 (3,300 ft.), " The Celebrated Washington s 
 Head Quarters," "The Soldiers Barracks," 
 old forts, millionaires residences, and other 
 interesting objects en route, are the subjects for 
 comment. But we must leave the Hudson, 
 with all her glories, and they are many : I 
 
 16 
 
242 
 
 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 never had such a delightful river excursion in 
 my life ; and in saying good-bye for the present, 
 pray accept, O lovely river ! this little sonnet 
 of praise : 
 
 Most noble river ! I ll make love to thee ! 
 If thou dost grant poor mortals this great boon. 
 I love thee, so I hope again to see 
 Thy handsome face, and very, very soon 
 To have another chat with thee, the fair, 
 The sweet, the beautiful, the bright, the gay ; 
 For I would like to dwell where I could share 
 Thy friendship, not just one, but every day. 
 
 Thou art my charmer ! so I do declare 
 
 Love s unadorned, unvarnished, glowing tale. 
 
 The Thames, the Dee, the Rhine, or those elsewhere. 
 
 May have the love of some, but they all fail 
 
 To make the chords within my soul respond 
 
 With the same music which thy beauties raise ; 
 
 For. sparkling river, I am very fond 
 
 Of all thy many charms, so I will praise 
 
 Thy glories just as loud as others sing 
 
 Their songs of love for other rivers fine ; 
 
 And while they to them fervent homage bring, 
 
 Mine shall be laid at thy own lofty shrine ; 
 
 For thou wilt cast a halo round the spot, 
 
 Where in the heart thy clust ring grandeurs live. 
 
 To prove they are not, nor will be forgot, 
 
 For they will ever sweet refreshment give. 
 
 So, splendid river, for a while we leave 
 Thy vivid, glittering gems sublime ; 
 
The Hudson River. 243 
 
 Confessing that for this we sorely grieve. 
 And long to see the fascinating time 
 When thy exhilarating, cheerful sights 
 We shall behold in all their living glow ; 
 And we shall grasp again those choice delights, 
 Which make the heart s affections overflow 
 In loving, rippling streams, to reach thine own. 
 For thou didst bid those guileless waters rise, 
 And flow with power, and in thee find a home 
 For love s awakening, grateful sacrifice. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 NEW YORK AGAIN. 
 
 Again within thy harbour, of which thou mayest be proud ; 
 Again we walk thy rough-set streets where millionaires do 
 
 crowd ; 
 
 Again on thy great business life with admiration gaze ; 
 Again we give to much we see a long, loud note of praise. 
 
 ABOUT six o clock in the evening of 
 Tuesday we landed from the Hudson 
 steamboat, with its engine gearing above-board 
 putting you in mind of those old-fashioned 
 ponderous beam engines still to be found in 
 some of our mills at home, and were driven 
 over the rough pavement to the Central Hotel, 
 Broadway. On returning from the General 
 Post Office, and gaining one of the cable cars, 
 who should we see but " the Girton girl," who, 
 along with her father, was coming to the hotel 
 to say bon voyage to our party ? This gentleman 
 kindly went with me to the s.s. City of Paris, 
 while the young lady was bidding adieu to her 
 Berlin acquaintances. 
 
New York Again. 245 
 
 It is always a source of gratification to meet 
 with a man with a store of information on any 
 subject greater than your own, and who is 
 quite willing to impart to you additional know 
 ledge. This gentleman was highly delighted 
 over the Behring Sea Arbitration, the decision 
 having just been received in New York. 
 
 He had a thorough mastery of all the details 
 of the past and present history, and had long 
 before publicly advocated the righteousness 
 of the findings of the arbitrators, much to the 
 annoyance of the majority of the people here, 
 who on this question entertained very strong 
 anti-English views, and of course quite antago 
 nistic to the arbitrators decision. Well, we 
 journeyed to the s.s. Paris by the overhead rail 
 way, and had a multitude of subjects to discuss, 
 on which we were mutually agreed ; and it is one 
 of the pleasures of life to come in contact with 
 men of high intelligence, and to me especially 
 those of literary attainments. 
 
 The two stayed for supper, with the other 
 two ; and the quartette had so much in common 
 that the time passed along rapidly and 
 pleasantly. 
 
 Then the two gentlemen of the Berlin 
 incident came on the scene, and so with a 
 
246 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 cordial good-bye, our friends left with the other 
 two. 
 
 It would be after eleven o clock, when a 
 gentleman connected with one of the great 
 newspapers came to the hotel to accompany a 
 few masculine spirits for a midnight ramble 
 through some of the huge printing establish 
 ments, in what we will call, rightly or wrongly, 
 Printing House Square. 
 
 On nearing The World office, a man in a 
 highly excited condition came along, and gave 
 us a gratuitous lecture. This eloquent and 
 loquacious man singled me out as the special 
 object of his attentions, and the ruling idea in his 
 discourse was to convince me that Christopher 
 Columbus was not the discoverer of America. 
 
 Through the open door of The World s office 
 he followed, still holding forth, and as the 
 cage door of the elevator closed he was still 
 speaking with an earnestness worthy of a better 
 cause and a more appreciative audience. 
 
 " Now," said our generous conductor, a 
 gentleman who had also shown us kindly 
 attentions on the s.s. Berlin, "we are at the 
 thirteenth story, and 250 ft. from the ground." 
 The elevator could not, at that hour, take us 
 to the highest point of the building ; but on 
 
New York Again. 247 
 
 a flat roof, from which the substantial tower 
 springs, we had a grand view of the lighted city 
 below. 
 
 The various buildings of note were pointed 
 out to us. You see that large store ? Well, we 
 were informed the late owner had died worth 
 more millions of dollars than I even dare here 
 mention. 
 
 On descending from this elevated position, 
 we were conducted through The World s vast 
 establishment, where each early morning 
 450,000 copies of The New York World are 
 printed. We saw all the processes, such as 
 type casting, pulp printing, etc., etc. 
 
 What this paper s proprietors must have 
 spent in plant and buildings of such dignified 
 proportions and architectural splendour I do 
 not know, but the figure must be read in 
 hundreds of thousands of dollars. 
 
 Illimitable prosperity seems to be written on 
 all you see, and what this journalistic property 
 will be worth in a few years will be a figure of 
 far-reaching, mouth-watering magnitude. 
 
 Another successful daily journal venture we 
 were introduced to was The Recorder, with a 
 circulation of 200,000, which has not yet seen 
 its second birthday. 
 
248 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 Such significantly prosperous journalistic 
 embarkments as these speak well for the 
 concentrated enterprise and surprising business 
 aptitude displayed by the able commanders, 
 whose good generalship is so conspicuous. 
 
 The compositors, too, seem to have been 
 actuated by commercial foresight, not frequently 
 displayed by their class; for I notice a vast 
 array of type-setting machines, and some labour- 
 saving automatic pneumatic pipe arrangements. 
 These sensible men are keeping ahead in the race 
 of speed with economy, and their arrangement 
 with the management is that these machines 
 shall only be worked by union men. 
 
 Well, all praise for this little instalment of 
 practical wisdom displayed by unionists, for it 
 is rather refreshing, after an unenviable English 
 experience, to find even a few who are capable 
 of grasping the threads of business philosophy. 
 What the general character of trades-union men 
 is here I know not, but the sooner our colliers, 
 and others who favour strikes, see the bitter 
 consequences of such a suicidal policy, the 
 better it will be for the ultimate prosperity and 
 welfare of countless thousands on whom their 
 action brings a flood of human misery, the dire 
 effects of which no pen can overestimate. Why 
 
New York Again. 249 
 
 not yield to the universal principle regulating 
 the law of supply and demand, and, adopting 
 a give and-take plan, seize a legitimate, and 
 mutually beneficial, course of action without 
 resorting to a trial of strength in which both 
 sides prove losers and so much suffering is 
 brought upon all parties concerned; and 
 unfortunately on those who, though not imme 
 diately connected, are made through no fault of 
 theirs to suffer very severely ? This also would 
 be more in keeping with the preservation of 
 individual freedom, and we should not hear of 
 those murderous attacks which the well-disposed 
 common-sense workman is subjected to if he 
 ventures to display that spirit of forbearing 
 freedom which every Englishman ought to be 
 allowed to exercise as a moral and legal right. 
 
 But let it be distinctly understood I do not 
 in any way condemn labour federations, for 
 they may be very useful institutions in many 
 respects, and may, when conducted on the 
 principle of all-round justice, be of service to 
 the community. But what I do oppose is the 
 tyrannical dictation of any self-appointed autho 
 rity, which would either compel a workman to 
 unwillingly part with his freedom of action, or 
 by its conduct so dislocate the various trading 
 
250 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 relations as to bring about disasters which 
 would make it utterly impossible for capitalists 
 to give, what working men deserve to have, 
 good wages and constant employment. And 
 why should any combination seek to gain "a 
 right " by a way which in itself is " a wrong " 
 and inflicts incalculable harm on others ? 
 
 These are not mere opinions, but real facts ; 
 and in verification I would draw attention to 
 the present coal crisis, where brute force has 
 been freely resorted to, to the detriment of Her 
 Majesty s free subjects. 
 
 Further, through this regrettable strike, some 
 colliery proprietors have lost what they will 
 never regain, and the colliers themselves cannot 
 hope to be permanent gainers. Manufactories 
 have been closed for want of fuel, and their 
 workers rendered almost destitute. Millions of 
 people have been made to feel the pinching 
 effects of this sad calamity, and all this hardship 
 and human misery have been brought about 
 through the action of a mere handful of men 
 who refused to leave their case to the decision 
 of a company of intelligent, uninterested arbi 
 trators. 
 
 Now, supposing all the capitalists created 
 an organisation which displayed its strength in 
 
New York Again. 251 
 
 this arbitrary and unwise manner, this would be 
 considered, and very rightly looked upon, as an 
 unworthy manipulation of the forces of wealth. 
 Who can tell what such an institution could 
 accomplish in the way of ruining our country, 
 by declining to purchase labour above a stipu 
 lated figure, which might be just as much too 
 low, as the rate suggested by labour agencies 
 might be too high ? At present the employer s 
 force is not so well organised as that of the 
 employe ; but lasting disastrous results must 
 certainly accrue should these two powers, fully 
 marshalled, and with relentless intention, face 
 each other. Both would be in the wrong, and 
 both would surely lose. Would that both 
 could be actuated by the spirit of the almost 
 forgotten adage, " Live and let live "! Therefore, 
 it was with real gratification that we found the 
 New Yorkers willing to meet each other a little. 
 In one of these great printing places we saw 
 a printing machine with this inscription : 
 
 " THIS is THE LARGEST PRESS IN EXISTENCE. 
 " CAPACITY 1200 EIGHT-PAGE PAPERS EVERY MINUTE." 
 
 The number seems enormous, and as I come 
 to re-write it, I wonder if my pencil has gone 
 astray, for it almost seems incredible. 
 
252 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 One feature we were shown in printing that 
 is quite modern, executing illustrations in various 
 colours at one operation. 
 
 The Recorder is a ladies paper, and fashions, 
 etc., are inserted in each edition, and these 
 are turned off the machines with the rapidity of 
 ordinary printing. 
 
 Our tour of inspection being completed, we 
 had to have " drinks," and I hope my temper 
 ance friends will not judge harshly, for though 
 I drank all I could manage I was not intoxicated, 
 and must confess a liking for drinking in the 
 early morning such drinks as these orange 
 phosphate, phosphate with pine-apple flavouring, 
 ice-cream soda phosphate. 
 
 These drinks, and others much stronger, are 
 obtained in a drug store, in a little room behind 
 the shop proper ; and such places are kept open 
 all night for the convenience of the 10,000 
 printing men employed in the huge concerns 
 around. The cable cars are also compelled to 
 run all through the night for their benefit. 
 
 Well, coming into the square, we noticed 
 the thermometer registered 74 ; and we 
 also noticed that the chairs beneath the trees 
 were occupied with homeless wanderers. 
 Probably we could see three hundred, and were 
 
New York Again. 253 
 
 told adding those in the other parts of this orna 
 mental space this number might be increased to 
 a thousand. The women in equally unfortunate 
 positions have refuges provided for them, and 
 in the winter season the men also fly to the 
 shelters to pass the night. 
 
 They are men who have fallen from almost 
 every rank of society. The professions are 
 represented, and all sorts and conditions are 
 found here on a common level. And our 
 kindly entertainer described this group of our 
 fellow-mortals as men " without a home, with 
 out a religion, without a hope." 
 
 What a pitiable, sad, miserable condition ! 
 These poor fellows are not allowed to lie down, 
 but only to sit, and a policeman makes his 
 periodical rounds, eyeing each one over. 
 
 We were informed the police know those 
 whom misfortune has overtaken through no 
 fault on their part, and some assistance is 
 offered. But the bulk of these men are idle, 
 dissolute, drunken, and improvident, who might 
 never do well or become respectable whatever 
 aid was rendered. America may well be 
 cautious in allowing moneyless men and women 
 to land, whose thriftlessness and waywardness 
 have brought them from some foreign shore. 
 
254 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 These poor destitute people are sent here by 
 relations and others anxious to get rid of trouble 
 some, good-for-nothing connections ; and the 
 difficulty is assuming such appalling dimensions 
 that more stringent regulations will be introduced 
 to prevent New York City and other places from 
 being made the rendezvous of the ne er-do-wells 
 of other nationalities. 
 
 Well, I must not say what time we turned in 
 our hotel, and though some of our little group 
 were men of the usual sedate family sort, yet 
 the novel experience of " so early in the morn 
 ing " was greatly enjoyed by all. 
 
 Many thanks, Mr. B , for your courteous 
 
 attention ; may we have the opportunity of 
 showing you an equal consideration. 
 
 Some of our party visited the Garden Theatre, 
 and others went to see the pictures possessed 
 by one of the New York hotel proprietors. 
 One of these is supposed to be a genuine 
 Correggio. This I should have been pleased to 
 examine, for we have one or two ascribed to 
 this artist, and I am specially anxious to see 
 any of his works. Many of the rich Americans 
 have been rather hardly dealt with in their 
 picture transactions, and spurious works have 
 been palmed on them ; but some are now taking 
 
New York Again. 255 
 
 a wiser course in having the great works copied, 
 for a correct copy so ascribed is far better than 
 a base imitation claiming originality. 
 
 I should not omit to mention that earlier in 
 the evening a presentation was made to Mr. 
 F. J. Ballard, our conductor, as a slight recog 
 nition of the appreciation entertained for his 
 indefatigable exertions in making the tour such 
 a pleasant success. This took the form of an 
 address, and a monetary consideration. 
 
 The address was as follows, and was signed 
 by the various members of the party : 
 
 " We, the undersigned, have great pleasure in presenting 
 to Mr. F. J. Ballard (Messrs. Cook & Son s representa 
 tive), the sum of dollars, for his kind attention and 
 
 courtesy to all and each of the members of the Society of 
 Arts party, whom he has conducted from New York 
 to the World s Fair at Chicago, and on to Niagara Falls, 
 Toronto, Montreal and Albany, and back to New York. 
 Although Mr. Ballard has been unwell for some days, 
 he has never neglected his duty, which all appreciate." 
 
 Mr. Swindells made the presentation in the 
 presence of some of the subscribers ; and its 
 recipient expressed his great satisfaction in a 
 few well-chosen sentences. In addition to this 
 address "the Admiral" forwarded to Messrs. 
 Cook & Son a letter, which many of us signed. 
 
256 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 testifying to the ability and kindness displayed 
 by Mr. Ballard. 
 
 Now, in England we often hear people talking 
 of an American breakfast, and the great variety 
 of cakes, etc., provided. For those who have 
 never breakfasted in this great breakfasting 
 country, I here append the menu of the last 
 breakfast we had in America. 
 
 BREAKFAST. 
 
 From 6 to 10 a.m. 
 
 FRUIT. Sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, queen 
 olives. 
 
 Oolong, green and English breakfast tea. coffee, 
 chocolate, cocoa, milk. 
 
 Oatmeal, cracked wheat, fried hominy, hot rolls, 
 Graham roll, corn cake, French rolls, crackers, Graham 
 bread, brown bread, dry, cream, butter and French 
 toast, wheat cakes, maple syrup, corn muffins, rye 
 bread. 
 
 FISH. Broiled fresh salmon, pickled salt codfish with 
 cream, broiled smoked salmon, broiled salt mackerel, 
 broiled fresh mackerel, fried codfish with salt pork, fish 
 balls, broiled halibut, broiled bluefish. 
 
 BROILED. Sirloin steak, mutton chops, lamb chops, 
 veal chops, calf s liver, tripe, ham, bacon, pig s feet, 
 pork chops, lamb kidneys on toast, spring chicken. 
 
 Frizzled beef with eggs, stewed tripe, chicken fricassee, 
 stewed kidneys. 
 
New York Again. 257 
 
 FRIED. Chickens livers, salt pork, ham, tripe, 
 hashed meat, veal cutlets breaded, tomato sauce. 
 
 COLD MEATS. Corned beef, ham, tongue, roast beef, 
 turkey. 
 
 EGGS. Boiled, fried, shirred, scrambled, dropped 
 omelet, plain, with cheese, ham, jelly and parsley. 
 
 POTATOES. Baked, thin fried, stewed, Lyonnaise, 
 French fried. 
 
 There are several interesting features you 
 notice in the coloured waiters, who serve the 
 breakfast. One is their wonderful memories, 
 for you are expected to order all you require 
 at once, and these men seldom forget the least 
 thing. Then they become very morose if they 
 are hurried or hardly spoken to; but, on the 
 contrary, if you talk about the " other gentle 
 men " they are pleased, and are specially 
 susceptible to the charms of kindness, innocent 
 flattery, a few nickels, or the less debased 
 metals. I like these coloured "gentlemen," 
 and admire their eye-speaking intelligence. 
 
 One thing I cannot understand in the white 
 people is, the abhorrence they have of associ 
 ating with their darker countrymen. I remember 
 seeing two American ladies in France once, who 
 objected to sit near a very handsome Spaniard, 
 because they considered he must be a little 
 
258 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 coloured-blooded. This is carrying antipathy 
 beyond the dictates of universal brotherhood 
 and common human kindness. 
 
 A great many will ask what I think of New 
 York. Well, I can say it is a place full of 
 electricity ; and, mark you, in more ways than 
 one. Then I may say very timorous people who 
 walk its parapets are afraid of being blown up, 
 for there are many steam boilers beneath them. 
 Then, commercially, it is without a doubt a city 
 almost without a parallel. They may talk to 
 me about depression of trade, but their lowest 
 depths would be considered prosperity by us. 
 
 Look here ! There are business men with 
 specialities who make as much as 300 per cent. 
 
 This is a fact, and the department of com 
 merce, which is cut down to even the lowest 
 percentage recognised as a profit here, is like 
 our concerns at home, which are considered 
 revelling in good margins. 
 
 I know firms in England who have 2^ per 
 cent, margin on a yearly turnover of tens of 
 thousands of pounds, and this has to cover 
 all working expenses, risks, and profit. Yea, 
 I may say i| per cent. : nay, I may go further, 
 for I know there are thousands of pounds worth 
 of goods sold at a positive loss, to secure a 
 
New York Again, 259 
 
 slight gain on something else. This, however, 
 is not what business ought to be. Why, a 
 little retail establishment in this city will have 
 a larger profit-earning capacity than many of 
 the great concerns in the British Isles with 
 which I am acquainted. 
 
 We are "not in it." Workmen earn more, 
 traders have bigger profits, and manufacturers 
 more substantial margins. 
 
 The worst thing seems to be the railways ; 
 but this is of little consequence, for British 
 capital is extensively employed. Then as 
 regards the cost of production. Well, in those 
 departments of business where labour is largely 
 employed this is very much greater; but in 
 those branches where machinery can be more 
 generally adopted the cost is not more, but 
 in many cases less, because dear labour has 
 stimulated the inventive quality. I have a 
 friend connected with one big concern, and they 
 have the best mechanic they could find for the 
 purpose of saving labour. Here is an instance. 
 This firm bought a machine in England for 
 $1600. Their mechanic at once said, "I will 
 make you a machine to do more work for $300, 
 which will take one man less to work it." This 
 he did, and the machine only cost $280. 
 
260 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Ships and such-like things cost more, but 
 it is marvellous how much greater is the out 
 put of mills manufacturing articles where 
 machines can be used, to what we find in the 
 same branches of trade in England from the 
 same number of employes. 
 
 What shall we do with our boys ? is often 
 asked ; and the girls ditto. 
 
 Well, a smart, intelligent girl, who is a good 
 typewriter and fair scholar, can earn here $20 
 a week. 
 
 The typewriter is largely used for business 
 purposes, and the great houses keep a large 
 staff for this branch of modern departure ; but 
 there are men here, in a smaller way, who can 
 hardly read or write, and they obtain the ser 
 vices of a well-educated young lady. They 
 give their ideas, and if she is able to place them 
 in orthodox business language, she receives for 
 her services payment which would make the 
 chief clerks of some commercial houses in 
 England open their amazed understandings to 
 the fullest extent. 
 
 Every one who can work, and will work, 
 seems to make money. 
 
 But, say some, in New York, and in America 
 generally, things are dear. 
 
New York Again. 261 
 
 What in the world does this matter ? for if 
 a girl earns $20 a week, and it costs $10 to 
 live, she is better off than if she was an English 
 slave earning $5, and living on $4. 
 
 I saw it stated in a Canadian paper that 
 "within a mile radius of St. Paul s, London, 
 there are 20,000 women working long days 
 and earning half a crown a week about sixty 
 cents." 
 
 Whether this statement is reliable the reader 
 must judge for himself; but any one who has 
 taken the trouble to investigate the labour 
 question in the congested districts in the East 
 End of London knows there are thousands of 
 men, women, and children in a state of semi- 
 starvation, and in many cases through no fault 
 of their own. 
 
 You see in many houses human slaves, 
 working at lightning speed, making match 
 boxes at 2\d. per gross. Out of this they have 
 to find their own paste and fire. If they are 
 not well dried they are rejected, and many of 
 these poor people purchase coal through com 
 pulsion in small quantities, say fourteen pounds 
 at once. 
 
 Then take the pretty boots children wear 
 and to hear of the work women execute in this 
 
262 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 trade for the smallest remuneration is almost 
 incredible. Then carry on your investigations, 
 and you hear of trades being utterly extinguished 
 through foreign competition. Take just one 
 as a sample sugar-refining. This, through the 
 foreign bounty system, has practically ceased to 
 exist, and thousands of men, wanting to work, 
 have been thrown idle. Probably it is much 
 below the mark to estimate the various trades 
 ruined, or practically so, by unfair foreign com 
 petition at fifty. Now we hear the piteous cry of 
 " the infamous application of political economy " ; 
 " the ever-recurring disastrous strikes " ; and 
 relief is justly asked for. Will the cry be 
 unheeded? or will anything be devised to 
 counteract these unjust means of depriving our 
 fellow-subjects of honest labour ? 
 
 We are in a most curious position ; trades, 
 which would otherwise be fairly good, are 
 being ruined by the unreasonable demands of 
 labour; while we have a vast and numberless 
 multitude famishing for the want of work, which 
 they would be willing to do for one-half the 
 price such labour deserves. 
 
 Some are of opinion that things will never 
 become settled until a great European war has 
 done its deadly work. This has long been 
 
New York Again. 263 
 
 expected. Heaven grant it may be far distant ! 
 for the situation requires no war, as it can and 
 ought to be improved by the application of 
 peaceable means. 
 
 Never, perhaps, in the history of our country, 
 was a difficulty of such magnitude and complex 
 character presented, which will require such 
 judicious management to satisfactorily solve. 
 The complications are great, the conflicting 
 interests severe, and even-handed justice can 
 only be meted out by men with well-regulated 
 minds, who will not be unduly biassed by any 
 special claim, but whose judgment will be the 
 result of a true appreciation of that great 
 commandment, " Thou shalt love thy neighbour 
 as thyself," and also that golden advice, " Love 
 worketh no ill to his neighbour, therefore love 
 is the fulfilling of the law." Let every man 
 endowed with a patriotism whose light is not 
 borrowed from any earthly argument, exercise 
 all the power he can wield within the sphere 
 of his influence in trying to teach men know 
 ledge, by precept and practice, that in the clear 
 light of truth our present difficulties will be 
 removed by its loving reflections. 
 
 We are simply ruining ourselves with a craze 
 for cheapness, but our friends here study political 
 
264 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 and commercial economy on a different system. 
 They would rather have things dearer with 
 plenty of money to buy, than cheaper minus 
 the purchasing power. 
 
 Well done, America ! you teach us a good 
 lesson. But, alas ! our gross stupidity and slavish 
 worship of antiquated notions prevent us from 
 learning and inwardly digesting your more 
 practical theories. Alas ! we have " sown to 
 the wind and now reap the whirlwind." 
 
 Then see how the rich heiresses, who orna 
 ment this city as thickly as mushrooms a good 
 pasture see how they have the very pick of 
 our impoverished aristocracy ! Our legislatures 
 have for a generation been labouring to bend 
 them low ; and now the fair English damsel is 
 forsaken for the fair American, because one is 
 penniless and the other is the reverse. 
 
 The Irish nobleman, deprived of quite half 
 of his lawful possessions by recent Acts of 
 Parliament, will have to seek for his sons rich 
 wives in these wealthy lands, so that they may 
 unitedly be able to keep up the baronial 
 dwellings, for diminished incomes show how 
 much the traitor has been benefited at their 
 expense. 
 
 Ah, England ! go on destroying one bulwark of 
 
New York Again. 265 
 
 strength after another let the landed interest, 
 commercial supremacy, and even thy great 
 Church all be dethroned and look on here, 
 and behold the different sight of every interest 
 being fostered and encouraged, the very things 
 being built up which you are determined to pull 
 down. 
 
 Ah ! some may say, America has her seasons 
 of depression, and it is not all sunshine. This 
 is perfectly true. And others tell you that the 
 country is on the verge of bankruptcy ; but my 
 impression is that this latter statement has 
 no foundation, and that the country is really 
 prosperous. The present hoarding-up of money 
 by the people will only be short-lived, and 
 already there are signs of returning confidence. 
 
 One of the papers has an illustration of a 
 female figure called " Europe," pouring gold into 
 the American treasury, " Fifteen million dollars 
 in gold just to hand." Beneath this engraving 
 is printed in large characters, "Our present 
 depression can only be temporary." Then 
 comes the reason for this assumption. " With 
 wise legislation, bountiful crops, unlimited 
 resources, and the return of gold from Europe, 
 national prosperity must soon resume its sway." 
 
 America expects prosperity, and the next great 
 
266 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Exposition in 1907 is being talked.of, to celebrate 
 the 3ooth anniversary of the foundation of the 
 first English colony. Hear the words of con 
 fidence and hope with which this announcement 
 concludes : " Progress will be as great, advance 
 as rapid, discovery as remarkable, in the next 
 fourteen years as in the time since the Cen 
 tennial Exposition ; and it will be as easy to spend 
 $50,000,000 then as to expend $33,000,000 
 now, or $15,000,000 in 1876." I fear the fifteen 
 years of depression we have had has so de 
 pressed us that we cannot at present sing such 
 a hopeful song as this. 
 
 America ! thou hast great attractions for our 
 best sons and daughters ; thou offerest great 
 encouragements for the thrifty, industrious, and 
 strong, thou canst find a convenient opening 
 for our surplus capital ; thou canst provide thy 
 heiresses by thousands, and rich men for our 
 poorer daughters ; yet lackest thou one thing 
 a crown. Thou hast no upright, patriotic, God 
 fearing monarch like our Most Gracious Queen, 
 the beloved of the earth, to preside over thee ; 
 and this dignity thou requirest, this honour thy 
 enlightened people crave, and this great blessing 
 and privilege thou must obtain before thou art 
 a perfect nation. For though some of thy 
 
New York Again. 267 
 
 people cry down royalty with their lips, there are 
 abundant evidences sufficient to indicate that 
 the heart desires and worships what the lips 
 condemn. 
 
 Ye loyal citizens of New York ! did not your 
 action in spending $18,000 to entertain your 
 charming visitor the Princess Eulalia clearly 
 add another bar to the music your hearts are 
 continually singing? 
 
 America ! we have found thee many things, 
 thy people are our people ; and we perhaps 
 might, when thou wishest, send thee a king or 
 queen, or both, with the purest of royal blood 
 flowing through their veins, to be thy crowning 
 glory. 
 
 Then will it be that some musician and poet 
 will rise up within thee, to write what also thou 
 lackest "a National Anthem" worthy of thy 
 great land and thy increasing millions of in 
 habitants. America ! thou hast prosperity, we 
 have adversity ; but there is one thing we have 
 in common, and that is, we both possess an 
 " Irish Question." Ours compared with thine is 
 as nothing, for ours can be easily answered, but 
 thine cannot. Ours might ruin our country, 
 but we have the power to say, " So far shalt thou 
 go and no farther." 
 
268 Across tJie Atlantic. 
 
 Your power is hardly to the same degree 
 commensurate with the strength necessary 
 to grapple with your difficulty. Each year it 
 will become greater, and it will be for your 
 patriotic sons to make the necessary sacrifices 
 "while it is called to-day"; for the time will 
 come when it will mean the expenditure of 
 blood and the loss of many human lives, as 
 well as a serious check to your national pros 
 perity. 
 
 Now is the time to look where you are drifting, 
 To dread the shoals of ugly rocks ahead ; 
 
 Now is the time for you to think of shifting 
 
 Your stately ship where there is nought to dread. 
 
 Ah, glorious continent ! now is the time for 
 deliberation and sound judgment, for your sons 
 to repudiate and destroy that which now 
 threatens to entrammel your people and destroy 
 your long-enjoyed freedom. 
 
 True, the indications may be to some no 
 larger, as yet, than "a man s hand," but the 
 threatened storm will come, unless your pa 
 triotism now seizes the means to arrest it. 
 
 My good wishes are with thee, fair continent, 
 and I hope no clouds will arise to dim thy 
 horizon. 
 
New York Again. 269 
 
 Good-bye, great continent ! Farewell ! farewell ! 
 Some things we care not for, but more like well ; 
 We own thy greatness, thy treasuries admire ; 
 Our stay has but been brief, but we retire 
 With wistful longings to return to thee, 
 And see more of thy boundless majesty. 
 Expansive, frugiferous fields leave unexplored, 
 Riches of elephantine growth, by those adored 
 Who have already viewed, with wondering eyes, 
 Nature s enormous treasures with surprise, 
 Enthusiastic praise, and wakeful mind, 
 Suggesting, that they, too, might find, 
 Like others, who seized Fortune s hand, 
 And settled in thee, favoured land, 
 Grasped mighty wealth with greatest ease, 
 Enough e en avarice to please. 
 From scenes of poverty they flew, 
 And rapidly to affluence grew ; 
 Showing that in one land men may 
 Grow worse and poorer every day ; 
 But in a wealth-producing place 
 They very soon could turn their face 
 On all the scenes of grinding strife, 
 And live a less distracted life ; 
 Secure for honest labour, gain, 
 Without the superhuman strain 
 Which other lands demand, 
 But not thy golden land, 
 Where men may gain, 
 Without great pain, 
 In its rich grounds 
 Wealth without bounds, 
 Time well employ, 
 Have peace and joy, 
 And praise each day 
 America ! 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 We re homeward bound, good friends, again, and tis u 
 
 pleasant thought, 
 Though we re to face the ocean s rage, which is with danger 
 
 fraught, 
 We hope to reach dear England s shore, old friends in 
 
 health to find, 
 And also trust to see again new friends we leave behind. 
 
 AT eight o clock on Wednesday morning, 
 August 1 6th, we left New York by s.s. 
 Paris, formerly known as City of Paris ; but 
 why the " City " was dropped it is difficult to 
 understand, seeing that seamen consider it a 
 sign of evil to alter the name of a ship. I have 
 heard of another superstitious notion sailors are 
 said to cling to i.e., when many ministers are 
 on board this is prognostic of disaster. When 
 leaving the dock we sighted the Majestic in an 
 adjoining basin, apparently with many passengers 
 on board. This famous ocean steamship had to 
 follow us in about two hours, and many wondered 
 which of us would win the race. 
 
Homeward Bound. . 271 
 
 We were first out, but last in ; so if America 
 gains the coming yacht race she is not always 
 first in an ocean one. 
 
 According to a correspondent of one of our 
 English newspapers, the Majestic must be cele 
 brated for more things beside quick travelling ; 
 for it is stated she averages 172*000 meals a 
 day; this number, divided by 1800, her full 
 number of passengers, gives the alarming 
 quotient 95*59 meals per diem, per head. I 
 suppose this must have been a printer s error, 
 or a slip of the pen, or else the vessel would 
 carry no cargo, for her hold would be required 
 for provisions. These, for a transatlantic 
 steamer, are of startling proportions, even if the 
 meals are taken at the ordinary rate. I have 
 come across a calculation which estimates 
 the annual consumption. Here are a few of 
 the items : 500 sheep, 200 lambs, 3000 oxen, 
 300 fowls, as many ducks and miscellaneous 
 poultry, beside several thousand head of game, 
 and other sundries. Add to these 100,000 
 eggs, 10 tons of ham and bacon, 5 tons of 
 fish, 2 tons of cheese, 1000 tins of sardines, 
 100 tons potatoes, 5000 loaves, and biscuits, 
 jam, meal, rice, sugar, tea, coffee, etc. Then 
 the drink bill : 50,000 bottles of beer, 20,000 
 
272 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 mineral waters, 3000 spirits, and 5000 bottles of 
 wine. 
 
 Then comes the fruit, which would take a 
 large patch to grow. I presume the printer 
 must have transmogrified some of the figures, 
 for the wine estimate appears much too low ; 
 probably it ought to read 50,000, but a few 
 thousand bottles are of little consequence in 
 point of value, if all " Liners " buy at the price, 
 which I think one newspaper declared to be 
 4s. 6d. per dozen bottles. Of course this was a* 
 " special manufacture," and I think the " Liner " 
 an un-English one. I wonder if some strong 
 imaginative temperaments would taste in these 
 chemical compounds the pure juice of the grape ? 
 
 I have also seen the breakage list ; and, as 
 far as I understand the statement, one of the 
 Liners had a rough passage, and the breakages 
 were as follows : 900 plates, 280 cups, 438 
 saucers, 1213 tumblers, 200 wine glasses, 27 
 decanters, and 63 water bottles. Glad I am to 
 say that we had not such a stormy passage. It 
 was bad enough for poor sailors, but not of this 
 tempestuous character. Although, I presume, 
 owing to the peculiarity of the sea a cross swell 
 or something of the sort our ship rolled heavily. 
 
 To give a few instances ! you place a plate 
 
Homeward Bound. 273 
 
 down when lunching on deck, and it will slide 
 to the side of the ship. You sit beneath the 
 awning, and the ship rocks so that when up 
 you see the sky but no water ; when down you 
 see the water and no sky. Then one night, 
 when all the chairs were removed and tied up 
 for the night, "the Major s Chair," which was 
 too fancy to leave outside, was placed in one of 
 the crossways between the deck state-rooms. 
 Not being able to sleep, I paced the deck, 
 and about one o clock in the morning I 
 stretched this chair out, and was reclining 
 thereon, and was just dozing, when I thought, 
 Dear me, what a roll she gives ! When lo ! the 
 chair was turned completely over, and its 
 occupant sent head over heels. Some of our 
 passengers accounted for the rolling, suggesting 
 our cargo was principally hay, and therefore light 
 for the bulk ; but I should judge it to be either 
 something special to the ship, or on account of 
 wind and currents. We were much amused with 
 the answer of one of the naval commanders on 
 board. We asked him if the sea made any im 
 pression on him. " It might do if there was 
 any motion," was the reply. So I presume the 
 rolling of the s.s. Paris was as nothing in com 
 parison to what he had experienced. 
 
 18 
 
274 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 Certainly we might have been much worse, 
 and had we stayed a week later the terrible 
 cyclone would have taught us a lesson in ocean 
 travelling. 
 
 On the whole we had a pleasant passage, 
 although we did not see so many whales to 
 amuse us as when outward bound. 
 
 Probably it has taken away a quantity from 
 the track of steamers to make the monster, 
 said to have been stranded on the American 
 coast, 170 feet long, many tons in weight, and 
 estimated in value at $10,000. 
 
 However, apart from whales, and other great 
 fishes, we had plenty of things to interest, attract, 
 and amuse. We had one little child on board 
 who was a very pleasant companion, 
 
 Who could not talk, and hardly walk ; 
 
 Yet this fair child would play 
 With any one whose face had on 
 
 A smile to pave the way. 
 
 The language of a smile is one of the first 
 languages childhood learns; and I have often 
 been struck with children of elder growth in 
 foreign lands who knew a language, but not 
 one s own, yet could appreciate this universal 
 interpreter of kindly feelings, and whose faces 
 would gladly respond with reciprocal illumina- 
 
Homeward Bound. 275 
 
 tion ; for all the world over there is a general 
 understanding of 
 
 THE LANGUAGE OB- A SMILE. 
 There is a language, all the same 
 In countries of whatever name, 
 
 That is a smile. 
 
 Their language may not be your own, 
 And by you never may be known, 
 
 Yet you can smile. 
 
 On childhood and on manhood s face, 
 You can the pleasant quivering trace, 
 
 A growing smile. 
 Yours will respond, or will invite, 
 For faces answer faces light 
 
 With nature s smile. 
 A child who cannot frame a phrase, 
 May, with its little face ablaze, 
 
 Answer your smile. 
 And one who other language knows, 
 Though not your own, soon clearly shows 
 
 He knows a smile. 
 This universal language pray 
 Well learn, and talk it every day ; 
 
 For each sweet smile 
 May make another face look bright, 
 Which teaches others by its light 
 
 The way to smile. 
 Thus will the traces of dull care 
 Be hardly noticed anywhere, 
 
 For all will smile. 
 
 And what a bright world this would_be, 
 If on each face we e er should see 
 
 A pleasant smile ! 
 
276 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 In fact, it would be very near 
 Akin to that far happier sphere. 
 
 Where angels smile, 
 And looks of love are only known ; 
 For where the blessed have a home 
 
 Kind Heaven doth smile. 
 
 I was greatly interested in a boy about ten 
 years of age who was trying to invent a fire- 
 escape. His grandfather had invented one, 
 and he drew me his ideas with great skill. In 
 describing his invention he used a term we don t 
 hear in England," slowed up," and I am not 
 quite sure if I grasped correctly what this meant. 
 This little fellow and another one afternoon 
 came to me in great consternation. They were 
 playing quoits, and addressed me thus : 
 
 " Do you see that old man ? When our quoits 
 run near his chair he .... and we are afraid 
 to fetch them. Would you please get us that 
 one?" 
 
 So the round rope-made quoit had to be 
 secured, and " the old man " did not .... I 
 suppose he had never learned "the language of 
 a smile." 
 
 One of our naval friends had presented to 
 him at Washington a sea chart, which was an 
 object of study for us. 
 
 On this were marked wrecks, icebergs, cur- 
 
Homeward Bound. 277 
 
 rents, courses of steamers, etc. The wreck 
 Mary Gibbon, August 2 2nd, 1892, was sighted 
 June 1893, and there is another wreck which has 
 been frequently reported for four or five years. 
 
 These derelicts are very dangerous to naviga 
 tion, and the American Government are taking 
 the wise initiative, and trying to come to some 
 kind of international understanding; and the 
 resolution they have introduced authorises the 
 President to make an agreement with the several 
 Governments interested in the navigation of the 
 North Atlantic Ocean, to provide for the report 
 ing, marking, and removal of dangerous wrecks 
 and derelicts, and other menaces to navigation 
 in the North Atlantic outside the coast waters 
 of the respective countries bordering thereon. 
 
 The captains of Transatlantic liners have fre 
 quently reported wrecks lying in the ocean tracks, 
 and sometimes these are almost submerged. 
 Recently the Teutonic sighted a derelict that 
 was waterlogged when within five hundred yards 
 of her. 
 
 Now, if one of these steamers struck a wreck, 
 say in the night, wnen it could not be observed, 
 the danger would be she might go to the bottom 
 with her great freight of human souls. 
 
 The work of destruction will, no doubt, be 
 
27 8 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 assigned to the navies of the several countries ; 
 and how much better service will be rendered 
 in blowing up these dangers to life than in 
 destroying life itself ! 
 
 Well done, America ! Though you are not 
 sufficiently careful of life at home, you are doing 
 a good work in trying to make this international 
 arrangement. 
 
 Your railways far too many kill ; 
 
 So well, if you can save, 
 By your inventions and your skill, 
 
 Some from a watery grave. 
 
 On the Saturday we had a shovel tournament. 
 I think this the right name to give it, for one 
 gentleman said to me, " Mind, not shuffle 
 shovel " ; so I suppose he was right. Games I 
 know little about : but strange to say I was 
 found in the last tie, my opponent being the 
 captain of the unfortunate steamer Chicago. 
 
 It therefore seemed quite an honour to lose, 
 and especially finding myself only five behind 
 at the close of the contest. First one and then 
 another gave me instructions how to act, for 
 probably the man in the moon knew as much 
 about the game as I did. 
 
 This day I experienced one of the remarkable 
 coincidences of life. Having been associated 
 
Homeward Bound. 279 
 
 with "The Spark" of our party in requesting 
 aid for our forthcoming concert, a gentleman 
 asked me how we were going on. As he seemed 
 interested in our efforts, I asked him if he could 
 help us at all. His reply was, his entertainment 
 was too long, as it would take a whole evening. 
 Well, it was arranged that this entertainment, 
 which was announced as a lecture with a curious 
 title, should be given in the evening ; and of 
 course I asked the passengers to attend, and 
 also found a chairman. 
 
 Gradually I seemed to think I had seen this 
 lecturer before, and ere the proceedings com 
 menced I felt sure on the subject ; but having 
 assumed a different name I did not at the first 
 recognise him as the gentleman I had a dis 
 cussion with in a London Lecture Hall six 
 years previously, and with whose opinions I 
 strongly disagreed. 
 
 The lecture was a written one, and the 
 audience listened to it with courteous attention, 
 although several could be seen writhing in 
 mental agony ; but at its close the storm burst 
 forth in all its fury. 
 
 First the chairman, who was a gentleman of 
 some prominence, had to utter his condemnation; 
 one or two Londoners gave a free vent to their 
 
280 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 feelings ; and I was obliged to make a statement 
 in self-defence, disclaiming all connection with 
 the lecturer, his principles and his words. 
 
 There are occasions in life when the generous 
 feeling rules, and you act on the " let it pass " 
 principle, but this was not one : 
 
 No ; generous feeling, take thy flight, 
 And do not tempt me to appear 
 By silent action in the light 
 Of one who at the Truth would sneer. 
 
 I certainly had been deceived over the matter ; 
 and whatever bad there may be in one s nature, 
 it is not yet so degraded as to applaud even by 
 silence what one gentleman described as the 
 concentrated essence of blasphemy, and the most 
 abominable phases of an advanced Socialism. 
 But I had to leave this uncongenial atmosphere, 
 having promised to sing a song at the second 
 saloon concert. On leaving the room, a lady 
 frantically, and with a loud voice and violent 
 gesticulations, demanded that I should stay 
 and hear her speak ; but not for all the ladies 
 on earth, nor any other consideration, will I 
 consent to see the most solemn truths trampled 
 under foot without a protest, if placed in a 
 position where silence could be construed into 
 approval. 
 
Homeward Bound. 281 
 
 Our second-class passengers were a very lively 
 lot, and were bent on making the most of the 
 voyage ; and their concert, with the aid of per 
 forming clogs and cats, was quite a success. 
 
 The next day was Sunday; and my state-room 
 partner, the Rev. Samuel W. Duncan, D.D., 
 had been requested by the captain to take the 
 service. This gentleman is a Baptist, and he 
 asked me to inform him on a few points in 
 connection with the Church Service, which he 
 had to read ; but as we had two licensed lay 
 readers of the Church of England with us, I 
 introduced him to them, and they very readily 
 arranged with the Doctor the order of service. 
 
 One of these gentlemen read the first lesson, 
 and the other the second. The sermon which 
 the preacher gave us was an antidote for what 
 we had heard the night before, and did not 
 depart one iota from the will and wisdom of 
 the Great Eternal as revealed in the Scriptures. 
 The rev. gentleman is intimately associated 
 with the Foreign Section of the American 
 Baptist Missionary Union. He paid, in the 
 course of a conversation I had with him, a fine 
 compliment to England, stating that wherever 
 the British flag floated religion was encouraged 
 and civilisation promoted. The Society with 
 
282 .Across the Atlantic. 
 
 which he is connected made a special effort 
 in 1892-3, and raised one million dollars ; 
 and their report states : " Our million-dollar 
 enterprise was simply our effort to make our 
 gifts to God correspond more nearly with God s 
 gifts to us." Well done, ye Baptists of America, 
 to honour the cause of good Dr. Carey, your 
 first missionary, whose great work is ac 
 knowledged with gratitude by all well-wishers 
 of Christian effort among the heathen ! I wish 
 Dr. Duncan, or some other Nonconformist 
 Christian minister, would come over to England 
 on a mission to some of the less charitable, and 
 endeavour to prevail upon them to adopt that 
 kindly spirit towards the Church of England 
 which he displayed. It is a very sad thing to 
 attend one of the anniversaries in England, 
 /.*., a meeting following a tea party, when 
 ministers are gathered together, and many 
 denominations are represented, but, instead 
 of seeking to further the cause of Christianity, 
 they make savage and quite unwarrantable 
 attacks on the Church, and their vehemence 
 is such that you would almost imagine their 
 hopes of heaven rested upon the animosity and 
 venom displayed against a Church which, to 
 say the least, kept the light of Christianity alive 
 
Homeward Bound. 283 
 
 when there would have been gross darkness, 
 and when these denominations had no existence. 
 
 Well, I must say I admired this minister of the 
 Baptist Church, who had, like other conscientious 
 Nonconformists, a large heart and comprehensive 
 view of the duties of a Christian minister. I will 
 not forget his kind words about the Church, and 
 his tribute to England. " The British protectorate 
 encourages freedom, education, and religion." 
 Certainly, the thanks of the passengers of the s.s. 
 Paris are due to Dr. Duncan, and his kindness 
 to me personally I shall long remember. 
 
 It is very well that we should observe the 
 Sabbath even on board ship, and our Sunday 
 gave us some taste of what a Sunday ought to 
 be a rest, a joy, a peace, a comfort, a feast of 
 love and a foretaste of heaven 
 
 A rest, a holy, sanctified retreat, 
 Where many hasten from earth s busy throng ; 
 The day of days, on which good Christians meet, 
 To join theirs with heaven s glorious song. 
 
 A joy, before which earthly ones may bend, 
 For it is unalloyed by worldly stains ; 
 When happy souls on eagle wings ascend, 
 And hearts inclined may hear the heavenly strains. 
 
 A peace, related to celestial peace, 
 Which saints in glory ever do possess ; 
 Though changing here, yet there it will not cease, 
 For there they know a perfect righteousness. 
 
284 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 A comfort, ah ! so needed by poor man, 
 Who has to face the world s engrossing strife ; 
 He finds the earth s vain comfort but a sham. 
 So sighs for something of a higher life. 
 
 A feast of love, where God will e er preside, 
 And living manna is in plenty spread ; 
 With which the longing soul is satisfied, 
 For higher natures crave for heavenly bread. 
 
 A foretaste of that heaven where Jesus lives, 
 Where angels ever chant before His throne ; 
 Such is the blessed sight each Sabbath gives 
 Of that bright place, the Sabbath-keeper s home. 
 
 On Monday many were anxiously awaiting 
 The Paris Gazette, printed at sea. One of our 
 party contributed an article, which I reproduce, 
 as it gives some information of our Society ; 
 and also insert my two little sketches "The 
 Arts Party," and "The Swallow s Mission." 
 
 " THE SOCIETY OF ARTS. 
 
 " Amongst the passengers in the Paris on the present 
 voyage is a party of members of the Society of Arts of 
 London, which was founded about the year 1754, for the 
 promotion of Arts. Manufactures, and Commerce. This 
 work is carried on by means of weekly meetings during 
 the winter months at the house of the Society, John 
 Street, Adelphi, when papers are read on various subjects, 
 followed by appropriate discussions. There are also 
 Cantor and other lectures, besides periodical meetings 
 connected more especially with India and the Colonies. 
 
Homeward Bound. 285 
 
 " The Society at present numbers about eight thousand 
 members, residing in all parts of the British Empire. 
 All subjects relating to inventions and improvements 
 are considered within its scope ; and it may be mentioned 
 that, amongst others, its Albert Medal has been bestowed 
 on Mr. Edison. It does not, however, deal with the 
 Fine Arts, except, perhaps, in their application to designs 
 although there is a rumour (given with all reserve) to 
 the effect that the present Royal Academy owes its exist 
 ence to an exhibition given under the auspices of the 
 Society of Arts. The Council having been appointed, 
 the Royal Commission of the British section of the 
 Chicago Exposition sent out its secretary, Sir H. Trueman 
 Wood, as its representative, and organised a private party 
 of some of the members to visit the World s Fair and 
 other places of interest in America and Canada, The 
 party, which at starting numbered thirty-five, including 
 Rear-Admiral Maclear, R.N., Mr. Herschel, F.R.S., 
 Captain Sconce (late I.N.), Mr. P. J. Rowlands, F.R.G.S., 
 Mr. J. Paget, J.P., D.L., and Brothers Keyser and Terry, 
 of wide celebrity in the Masonic world, arrived in New 
 York on July 3 1st, and left on their return trip on August 
 1 6th. In the meantime they have visited Washington, 
 Chicago, Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Saratoga and 
 Albany, from which place they returned to New York 
 by steamer. They have been greatly pleased with all 
 they have seen, and much struck with the energy and skill 
 displayed in the planning of the Exhibition. They were 
 also delighted, in spite of the great heat, with Washington, 
 Niagara, and Montreal ; but enjoyed, perhaps most of all, 
 the splendid trip on the Hudson. Some of them have 
 carried away pleasing mementoes of their visit, but it 
 would take too much space to describe the many pleasant 
 recollections of their all too brief visit. 
 
286 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 " Many of these will probably be duly chronicled in 
 the Souvenir of the journey, which Mr. R. A. Naylor, 
 F.R.Hist. Soc., kindly proposes to present to his fellow- 
 travellers. 
 
 " One of the most pleasant is the mutual good-fellow 
 ship displayed by the members, and another will be the 
 never-failing memory of the kindness and courtesy re 
 ceived by all from the many American and Canadian 
 friends with whom they have been brought in contact." 
 
 THE ARTS PARTY. 
 
 We are a jovial, merry set, 
 For all seem bright and hearty, 
 
 We ve had a trip we won t forget, 
 Nor any of the party. 
 
 The Army, Navy, Science, Art, 
 
 We have well represented ; 
 But space forbids more than a start, 
 
 So I must rest contented. 
 
 We ve been to see Chicago s Fair, 
 And crossed the great Atlantic, 
 
 And when we now our notes compare, 
 We all say, " Grand ! " " Gigantic ! " 
 
 The British Lyon leads our van, 
 
 So we feel quite protected ; 
 He is the ladies gentleman, 
 
 So they are not neglected. 
 
 Then we have songs that ever please 
 From his good brother Keyser, 
 
 But if there is a girl to tease, 
 This is the man to tease her. 
 
Homeward Bound. 287 
 
 We have two Paines, and sigh for more, 
 For these Paines add to pleasure ; 
 
 Instead of wishing they were o er, 
 We count them as a treasure. 
 
 But say, ah ! say, what should we do, 
 
 In crossing this big ferry, 
 If we had not among the crew 
 
 Our good friend, brother Terry ? 
 
 THE SWALLOW S MISSION. 
 
 Last night a poor, homeless little swallow flew along 
 with this steamer for many miles. 
 
 Some would notice her and some would not. 
 
 Those who did could not help being impressed with 
 the feelings of weariness she displayed. 
 
 She was certainly an object to awaken the chords of 
 sympathetic pity ; for the poor, tiny thing evidently sighed 
 for rest, and hesitated to alight and take it through doubts 
 and fears. 
 
 For a short time she rested on one of the iron railings, 
 and presented a most interesting object to the contem 
 plative mind, for she seemed so tired, hungry, and weak, 
 that the desire to succour, help, and feed must have been 
 the ruling impulse in every heart sufficiently alive to 
 listen to the woes and necessities of such a silent, though 
 powerful appeal. 
 
 Early this morning I looked for that pretty little 
 wanderer, but found her not. 
 
 Perhaps the fear and hesitancy ruled until exhaustion 
 led the way to a watery grave, for it may be that the 
 
288 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 mission of her destiny was performed, for the Great 
 Being (who does not permit a little bird to fall without 
 His notice) might have designed and ordered that 
 this weak instrument of His creation should finish her 
 course after teaching some great lesson to some human 
 soul. 
 
 Ah, little bird ! where you are now I know not ; but 
 the eloquence of your silence may be heard " after many 
 days," and may influence some one to listen attentively 
 to the piteous appeal of the many human swallows who 
 wearily wander o er the great ocean of life sighing for 
 help and pity. 
 
 If this is so, a noble mission will have been accom 
 plished, and you, dear little swallow, will not have lived 
 in vain, for your vivid object-lesson may, with increased 
 force, often be repeated in the years to come and thus 
 yield its meed of praise to the honour and glory of your 
 great Creator. 
 
 During the day our great Shovel Tournament 
 was arranged and partially played, but was not 
 completed until the following day. It was one 
 of those strongly contested trials of skill, or 
 perhaps partly chance, for the rolling of the 
 ship made the latter element come largely into 
 the calculation ; and it was a very curious thing 
 that Captain Redfern and myself should have 
 been left again to play the final tie. They told 
 me I played very carelessly, for I actually gave 
 him 3 10 offs i.e., 30 ; but impelled by 
 almost the threats and entreaties of some of 
 
Homeward Bound. 289 
 
 the bystanders, I really tried to play better. 
 The Captain was 49 after a long struggle, when 
 by a miss he kindly gave me i o ; then the 
 excitement was at fever heat, and some one 
 suggested that the honour of the Arts Party was 
 at stake, so by a few specially good strokes I 
 came off the victor, scoring the required 50 in 
 proper style. The holder of the purse handed 
 me the sovereign, but as I do not play for 
 money my bargain was to give this to the 
 markers, and the two men were highly delighted; 
 but perhaps no one was more surprised than 
 the winner, as games don t seem to be in his 
 line. 
 
 In the evening we had our grand concert in 
 the saloon, which proved one of those gratifying 
 successes which please everybody. 
 
 The proceeds were also very satisfactory, and 
 we were fortunate in obtaining the services of 
 two very charming ladies to sell the pro 
 grammes, which were nicely printed by the 
 ship s printer. 
 
 The chairman also made a special appeal for 
 the institutions the concert was arranged to 
 benefit; and the collection, with programme 
 proceeds, enabled us to hand the purser over 
 
 23- 
 
 J 9 
 
Held in Saloon of U.S. M.S. " Paris," on Tuesday Evening, 
 August 22nd, 1893. 
 
 FUNDS IN AID OF THE SEAMEN S ORPHANAGES, STATEN ISLAND AND LIVERPOOL. 
 Chairman Rear-Admiral Maclear, M.S. A. 
 
 programme. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 PIANOFORTE SELECTION. 
 
 MRS. FAGAN. 
 SONG . . . " The Old Folks at Home " . . . Foster. 
 
 MR. R. A. NAYLOR. 
 
 SONG . . "My Love is like the Red, Red Rose " . . Hadley. 
 MISS A. M. STABLER. 
 
 SONG "Admiral Tom" 
 
 MR. H. A. LEE. 
 FIVE MINUTES WITH MR. JAMES LEWIS. 
 
 SONG "I fear no Foe" Pinsuti. 
 
 MR. EUGENE COWLES. 
 ADDRESS BY THE CHAIRMAN. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 SONG .... " Out on the Deep " .... Loehr. 
 MR. A. B. MITCHELL. 
 
 SONG "Promise Me" .... De Koven. 
 
 MISS DOROTHY DORR. 
 SONG . . . . " Creole Lover s Song " . Buck. 
 
 MR. EUGENE COWLES. 
 RECITATION . . " Calling the Doctor " .... 
 
 MR. P. J. ROWLANDS. 
 SONG . . " If I had but a Thousand a Year " . 
 
 MR. KEYSER. 
 QUARTETTE . . . " Sweet and Low " . . . . Burnby. 
 
 MRS. MILLET, MISS DOROTHY DORR, 
 MR. EUGENE COWLES and MR. H. A. LEE. 
 
 NATIONAL ANTHEMS. 
 
 Concert to Commence at 8.30 o clock. 
 
Homeward Bound. 291 
 
 The programme was not departed from, except 
 that Mrs. Fagan was unwell, and a duet, 
 " Friendship," by Messrs. Mitchell & Lee, was 
 given in the place of the pianoforte solo. 
 
 Perhaps the piece which was the most 
 rapturously applauded was Mr. Keyser s song 
 If I had but a Thousand a Year," and in 
 response to this encore a song about "Brad- 
 shaw s Guide " was given with amusing effective 
 ness. Our American professional friend, Mr. E. 
 Cowles, rendered invaluable help, and his songs 
 were both encored : in fact, all passed off in 
 admirable style. The chairman and performers 
 were duly thanked, and the accompanist, the 
 ship s surgeon, Dr. J. F. Hadley, responded by 
 rendering a brilliantly played solo. This gentle 
 man s setting of the old song " My Love is like 
 the Red, Red Rose," is an accomplished bit of 
 refined music, and we shall prize the copy he 
 kindly presented to my good lady. 
 
 I fear I received far more praise than I de 
 served; and a gentleman, the very essence of 
 kindness, insisted that I should have a musical 
 vote of thanks. The Captain, W. G. Randle, of 
 the s.s. Pan s, for kindly granting the use of the 
 saloon, etc., also came in for the same honour : 
 and he made, in responding, a capital sailor-like 
 
292 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 speech, which was very much appreciated and 
 applauded by the audience. 
 
 The National Anthems brought the proceed 
 ings to a close ; and a gentleman said to me, 
 " You ought to be a happy man to-night," and 
 so I was. Probably he thought a miniature 
 Andronicus. 
 
 "The Star-Spangled Banner" was sung as 
 the American national anthem, and we had 
 this on the s.s. Berlin-, but not half the 
 Americans on board own this as their national 
 song. There is a hymn to the tune of our 
 National Anthem which some favoured ; and 
 several others were mentioned. The fact is, 
 America has no recognised national anthem ; 
 and though "The Star-Spangled Banner" is 
 the favourite, still the country ought to have 
 something more in keeping with her greatness. 
 I see Dr. O. W. Holmes has tried to improve 
 the song by adding another verse, but this 
 distinguished American s efforts have not much 
 mended matters. It seems a partially borrowed 
 production adapted for its present use, but 
 neither the tune nor the words are up to the 
 mark, and it is a pity Longfellow, before he 
 passed away, was not inspired to give his country 
 a truly national hymn, something on the lines 
 
Homeward Bound. 293 
 
 of his " Psalm of Life," or " Excelsior," which 
 would have taken deep root in the hearts of the 
 people. A nation with a motto on her coins 
 such as " We trust in God " requires an anthem 
 with some recognition of Providence in it, and 
 not so much of the "stars and stripes" and 
 the blood and thunder element. In a little 
 book you obtain on board ship called "The 
 Passenger," with the "Compliments of Edwin 
 H. Low," you have this notice : " The Star- 
 Spangled Banner and * God Save the Queen 
 are sung at the concerts given aboard ship. As 
 many are unfamiliar with the words, their inser 
 tion herein will be useful." Now, we presume 
 Mr. Low is an American, and he evidently 
 agrees with the many who consider this 
 " Spangled Banner " their national anthem ; 
 but I would respectfully ask any intelligent 
 American to analyse carefully the two verses 
 he inserts, or even add the one composed by 
 Dr. Holmes, and then ask himself if the song 
 is in keeping with this enlightened age, or if 
 its sentiments are not more associated with 
 the middle ages, when brutality and bloodshed 
 were gloated over, and not considered things 
 to be. discouraged. 
 
 However, opinions differ, and perhaps the one 
 
294 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 I offer may meet with the severest condemnation; 
 but this is an age when free speech is tolerated, 
 and the wise do not object to the interchange 
 of ideas, for thereby such lovers of truth reject 
 the false and retain the true. Probably when 
 we visit America again, a genuine, universally 
 recognised National Anthem will have been 
 inspired, and this wish gratified. 
 
 May some one soon appear 
 To write in words sincere 
 
 This nation s hymn ! 
 Glowing with love replete, 
 Filling the vacant seat, 
 Which time will ne er deplete, 
 
 Nor age bedim. 
 
 I am quite ready to admit that our own 
 National Anthem may be justly stigmatised as 
 defective, for lovers of perfect music can 
 trace certain defects which even to lower-grade 
 musicians are perceptible; but it has woven 
 itself in a marvellous way into our national life, 
 and as it has become our adopted anthem by 
 general consent, it would now be unwise to 
 supplant it by another, even though this might 
 be of a much higher order. 
 
 Our passengers on the s.s. Paris were quite 
 different from those on the s.s. Berlin^ and I was 
 
Homeward Bound. 295 
 
 taught by a lady the lesson that America has 
 its society ; and I really think the dividing lines 
 will be more difficult to demarcate than even 
 the confusing divisions and subdivisions we 
 have in England. 
 
 We had two sections qualities, and aspirants 
 to the real article and both claimed to represent 
 the beau-ideal of American aristocracy. Per 
 sonally, I thought both very good; but each 
 section was prepared to stand on its dignity, 
 and claim superiority. It is not for a poor 
 Englishman to decide, for Society, so-called, is 
 what I have always tried to escape from. Not 
 in the slightest degree would I blame Society, 
 for the doors of the titled and great have been 
 thrown open, and the man who refuses to enter 
 cannot cast reflections upon the kindness and 
 courtesy of those who gave the invitation. 
 England has her peculiar limitations and un 
 written laws, even observed by the poor, who 
 probably excel the rich in the strength of their 
 pride and vanity ; but America, from what my 
 charming lecturess taught me to believe, is 
 ahead in the race, yea, heads by many lengths 
 her British competitor. 
 
 But we must not display any scrupulosity in 
 the matter, but be content to give the greatest 
 
296 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 possible latitude to those who glory in these 
 class distinctions which cannot make any of us 
 either better or worse. There is no doubt we 
 had some very nice and very clever passengers 
 on board, whatever class they belonged to. 
 
 One of my opponents in the tournament, a 
 gentleman from South Africa, was a very fine 
 specimen of humanity. He showed me the 
 photographs of his family. One of his children, 
 a very pretty girl, had so captivated a gentleman 
 once on the ocean, that he presented her with 
 shares to the value of ^400, to be kept for her 
 until she grew up. 
 
 Another gentleman, a doctor from British 
 Columbia, who was on his wedding trip, was a 
 very desirable acquisition. 
 
 But, talking of weddings, we had a lady on 
 board with one of the grandest love affairs on 
 I ever heard of. Her mother is a celebrated 
 authoress, and when she was showing me a 
 proof of binding for one of her books, inside 
 she found a private printed cablegram code. 
 This she showed to me, and told me her 
 daughter and a distinguished general had fallen 
 in love at first sight, and this was their code. 
 Their names were printed in letters of gold ; 
 and I was told that when they parted once for 
 
Homeward Bound. 297 
 
 just three weeks the lady received ninety-two 
 telegrams, some of them running to six or seven 
 pages. There is a touch of romance about this 
 love affair, for each had to have an interpreter 
 to read the other s letters, for they were of 
 different nationalities. 
 
 Ladies would delight to hear the details of 
 this fascinating story, but I have revealed about 
 as much as prudence dictates. I don t know 
 much about the love business from personal 
 experience, but I have been a collector of 
 these stories for a long time, and some time 
 may give them in print. 
 
 This first-sight business seems to be rather 
 common. I know a gentleman who met a 
 lady quite accidentally, and shortly afterwards 
 was walking with a gentleman past the house 
 in which she resided, in a town some miles 
 away from the place of the first interview. 
 The lady was looking through one of the win 
 dows and gave my friend a smile : he left his 
 friend, entered the house, asked the lady to be 
 his, and the whole thing was decided. 
 
 I have another story where a man did not 
 secure the look at the right time, and the two 
 are still alone. 
 
 The only affair that ever I was intimately 
 
298 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 connected with was through a lady inducing 
 me to act the part of Pandarus ; but with the 
 most miserable consequences, for the lady 
 proved false to her lover, and actually went 
 and married a man very much his inferior. 
 
 But changing the subject of love for science 
 which is more profitable, perhaps we had on 
 board Professor Milne, F.R.S., of Japan, and he 
 had such a grand assortment of photographs 
 out of the common run that the few who saw 
 them, and heard his explanations, were entranced. 
 He is the learned editor of, and principal con 
 tributor to, the Seismological Journal of Japan ; 
 and his accounts of the devastating earthquakes 
 which visit that country are of a blood-curdling 
 description. 
 
 In thirty seconds, property and life destroyed 
 to an enormous extent. The number of houses 
 demolished, persons killed and wounded in the 
 last eighteen years, is so great that I can hardly 
 believe my figures when I come to look at them 
 again. Some parts of Japan are not subjected 
 to these devastating visitations, and in these 
 portions of the country the Professor told me 
 life was enjoyable and living cheap. ^300 
 to ^400 there is equal to ;iooo in England; 
 and this statement is implicitly reliable, for 
 
Homeward Bound. 299 
 
 Professor Milne does not exaggerate. In 
 London he would be a welcome visitor; and 
 since, I have read of his being at the British 
 Association meeting at Nottingham, to give of 
 his bounteous store of knowledge. 
 
 But our delightful trip draws to a close, for on 
 Wednesday morning, very early, I saw the lights 
 on the Scilly Islands, and when the passengers 
 came on deck the mainland was a few miles 
 distant. 
 
 These dear old shores we were pleased to see 
 once more ; and on passing the Needles, in 
 glorious sunshine, our own loved land did not 
 show worse by comparison. On reaching the 
 dock at Southampton, we saw our old friend the 
 s.s. Berlin undergoing the beautifying process, 
 and lying up for two months. Why America 
 should have departed from her custom, and 
 given this little bit of work to Englishmen, I do 
 not know ; but thank you, America, for small 
 mercies, for, perhaps, out of sheer generosity 
 you may soon give a few odds and ends to your 
 poorer brethren, so that the British workman 
 may be kept from absolute want. His agricul 
 tural profits have gone, his town work grows 
 less, and its multitudes to do it greater; his 
 mines now require less miners than before ; so 
 
300 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 please, dear America, set an example of philan 
 thropy to influence other foreign nations, and 
 let it be known that, at any rate, we are thankful 
 for the crumbs which fall from your bountiful 
 tables, and our starving, increasing numbers 
 will open their mouths wide to receive them. 
 For remember, England, although distressed, 
 does not forget to allow you all to feed sump 
 tuously upon her national resources without 
 let or hindrance ; for many things we wear, 
 and much of what we eat, comes from foreign 
 lands ; so while we let France send us silk 
 while our own mills are closed, Germany her 
 varied wares while our manufacturers are idle, 
 America her products while our corn-growing 
 fields are profitless, do, please, remember the 
 generous poor, and allow us to paint your ships, 
 to black your boots : in fact, the smallest mercies 
 will be thankfully received. 
 
 Then just remember the kindness also of our 
 tourist agents, and make a friendly note of 
 the fact that " The special party of the Society 
 of Arts, Commerce and Manufactures " were 
 conveyed (through Messrs. Thomas Cook & 
 Son) by " the American line " across the Atlantic. 
 They have written me to see if I could suggest 
 anything to improve what they arranged for 
 
Homeward Bound. 301 
 
 our welfare, and I replied " no " ; for all their 
 arrangements were very good, and reflect great 
 credit upon all concerned ; and I suppose they 
 would have committed the great crime of 
 favouring " British industries " had we been 
 sent by one of the many English liners. Surely 
 after this the nations of the earth will give a 
 grand testimonial, and furnish Britannia with 
 a large golden medal, with a suitable super 
 scription, acknowledging us to be the most 
 unselfish people on the face of the globe. 
 
 But, alas ! we have heard the song sung, with 
 compressed lips, but yet with a satisfied smile, 
 by various nations : 
 
 The foolish old country, she has got a craze, 
 Her people are sleeping in old-fashioned ways ; 
 But we are more wakeful, and we ll make her sing, 
 And the old Sleeping Beauty to poverty bring. 
 
 Oh, what a lot of hand-shaking, good-byeings, 
 had to be gone through ! And even some of our 
 friends were reluctant to say really " farewell " ;. 
 for one Britisher actually made us promise that 
 the next day we would pay him a visit, and he 
 gave us a delightful drive in his carriage of 
 some twenty-five miles in and around Epping 
 Forest. This little bit of British favouritism 
 rather spoils the otherwise anti-British picture, 
 
3O2 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 for the hearty welcome we received from this 
 gentleman, his wife, and family, showed that the 
 love for the "made abroad" idea does not 
 include humanity in its category. 
 
 But we must now conclude, and though all 
 the opinions expressed in these reminiscences 
 may not find participators in every reader, still 
 they are recorded with an intention which, 
 whether rightly or wrongly, is considered by the 
 Author to be consistent with the truth. 
 
 A lover of his country will always desire his 
 own land to enjoy any advantages he sees 
 others possess, and to discard the useless and 
 detrimental belongings she may cling to. Yes, 
 and he will labour with untiring energy to 
 promote her truest interests, without fee or 
 reward, perhaps refusing all honour, declining 
 all favours, proving, by his unselfish devotedness, 
 he labours, not for his own glorification, but 
 for the general good. England, at this juncture, 
 requires more of these patriots, and fewer place- 
 seekers, time-servers, money-hunters. Then she 
 would flourish, and her people be provided with 
 plenty. 
 
 However, we wish well to all nations and all 
 peoples, and would delight to see universal 
 prosperity and happiness beautifying the whole 
 
Homeward Bound. 303 
 
 world ; but it is a little pardonable to specially 
 desire the best and richest blessings for our 
 own land, of which we are so proud, whose 
 honour we are so jealous of, and whose great 
 ness we should like to grow and not diminish. 
 
 Ah, glorious old England ! no one can 
 obliterate thy honourable past, nor can we 
 forget the noble sacrifices, made by those who 
 have built up thy greatness, nor help feeling 
 sad when thy integrity is threatened and thy 
 honour tarnished. 
 
 Our eight or ten thousand-mile journey has 
 been delightful : we have seen much, and been 
 kindly treated j but we are glad to see thee 
 once more, and in thankfulness feel ourselves 
 in the land of our birth, which has been the 
 home of the noblest and bravest of earth. 
 
 Yes, we love thee ! We love thy people, and 
 we love thy Queen ! Yes ! 
 
 Our journey s o er, and we once more 
 
 Behold with glad delight 
 Our own fair land, and on it stand, 
 
 Rejoicing at the sight. 
 
 All that we ve seen, which good did seem, 
 
 Ah ! we would claim for thee ; 
 And all the bad we should be glad 
 
 To leave across the sea. 
 
304 Across the Atlantic. 
 
 For we would like to see thee quite 
 From woes and dangers freed ; 
 
 And perfect light, and perfect right, 
 Alone in thee succeed. 
 
 On every page in every age 
 
 True patriots are shown, 
 Who have for good with heroes stood 
 
 And claimed thee as their own. 
 
 For in the past, when traitors cast 
 
 Their forces in the scale, 
 Our glorious Throne was not o erthrown, 
 
 For they did sadly fail ! 
 
 And so must we in ninety-three, 
 
 Like heroes true and brave, 
 From every woe and every foe 
 
 Our country try to save. 
 
 So, England dear, pray do not fear, 
 For though we from thee roam, 
 
 We shall not fail to gladly hail 
 Thee as our native home ! 
 
 For if thy crew would but be true, 
 
 Our noble ship of State 
 Would safely ride, with stately pride, 
 
 Fear neither foe nor fate. 
 
 But England s Crown shall ne er come down, 
 
 If patriots have their way ; 
 Her glorious flag shall never drag 
 
 Within the mire and clay. 
 
Homeward Bound. 305 
 
 But Flag and Crown keep their renown, 
 
 And still in greatness grow ; 
 Though inside foes increase our woes 
 
 And seeds of mischief sow, 
 
 Yet there are some who have much done 
 
 Our prestige to redeem ; 
 Whose selfless aim must honour claim 
 
 For Empire and for Queen. 
 
 We have a Queen, the best e er seen. 
 
 And as all nations gaze 
 Upon her zeal, for our land s weal, 
 
 They cannot help but praise. 
 
 But ah ! alas ! sad is the pass 
 
 To which thy people s will 
 Has brought thee now, so make a vow 
 
 To show true wisdom s skill. 
 
 Thus from the deep, where patriots weep, 
 
 Thou mayest soon arise ; 
 And rulers true their duty do, 
 
 And thus be counted wise. 
 
 Then will our land in glory stand 
 
 Where er her rule is seen ; 
 They will be blest who did their best 
 
 For Country, God, and Queen. 
 
 Printed by Hazull, Watson, & Viney, Ld., London ;ind Aylesbury. 
 
 20 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORRO^ 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. 
 
 "V- 
 
 -t 
 
 64 - 
 
 LD 21A-50w-3, 62 
 
 General Library 
 University of California