BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION MAIN LIBRARY AGK1C. s: i *t LILIUM MONADELPHUM SZOVITZIANUM. A handsome border lily. Grows 4 ft. high, and flowers in July. Colour : yellow, spotted with black. Native of the Caucasus. BULBS And their Cultivation. A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation and Propagation of Window and Indoor Bulbous and Tuberous-Rooted Plants, adapted for Outdoor, Greenhouse, and Room Decoration, :: with Lists of Species and Varieties. :: 1 BY ' T. W. BANDERS, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., knight of the First Class of the Royal Order of Vasa, Sweden. (Editor of "Amateur Gardening," and Author of "An Encyclopaedia of Gardening," 'The Flower Garden," "Vegetables and their Cultivation," "Roses and their Cultivation." "Amateur's Greenhouse," "Alphabet of Gardening," etc.) ILLUSTRATED. [Second Edition.] LONDON : W. H. 6? L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148 & 149, Aldersgate Street, E.G. LONDON : PRINTED BY W. H. AND L, COLLINGRIDGE, 148 AND 149, ALDERSGATE STREET, E.C. MAIN LIBRARY AGRIC. DMT, CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTION 4 PART I. HARDY BULBS. Chap. I. BULBS, CORMS AND TUBERS 9 II. SOILS AND MANURES .. 14 ,, III. LIFTING AND STORING BULBS ... 16 ,, IV. BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS 18 V. BULBS ON ROCKERIES 24 VI. NATURALISING BULBS 26 ,, VII. OUTDOOR LILIES 31 VIII. TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS 34 ,, IX. LIST OF HARDY TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS ... 43 X. LIST OF HARDY AND HALF-HARDY BULBS 48 PART II. BULBS IN ROOMS, ETC. Chap. I. CULTURE IN WATER 77 ,, II. CULTURE IN Moss FIBRE 80 ,, III. CULTURE IN WINDOW BOXES 85 PART III. BULBS UNDER GLASS. Chap. I. CULTURE IN HOTHOUSES 88 II. CULTURE IN WARM GREENHOUSES 101 ,, III. CULTURE IN COOL GREENHOUSES 107 IV. CULTURE IN COLD GREENHOUSES 119 V. FORCING BULBS 146 ,, VI. CULTURE IN FRAMES 148 PART IV. MISCELLANEOUS. Chap. I. PROPAGATION OF BULBS AND TUBERS 150 II. PESTS AND DISEASES 154 III. ENGLISH NAMES OF BULBS 166 ,, IV. SELECTIONS OF BULBS AND TUBERS ... 170 ,, V. GLOSSARY OF TERMS 185 INDEX 997930' - ~ 2 . m FOREWORDS. AMONG the great wealth of vegetation at the command of man for decorating his garden and greenhouse few plants possess greater attractiveness, charm, or beauty than those that belong to the bulbous and tuberous-rooted sec- tion of the vegetable kingdom. Many of them have graced our gardens for centuries, been idolised and almost worshipped by our forbears, and in more recent times held in the highest esteem by flower lovers of every de- gree and in every station of life. Owners of princely demesnes have of late years adopted the commendable and artistic fashion of growing hardy kinds by the thousand in meads and woodlands ; those of suburban and town gardens have also taken a supreme delight in cultivating them in beds, borders, and greenhouses; and others, again, who lacked the luxury of a garden, have shown an interest in these beautiful flowers by growing them on the window-sill, the balcony, roof garden, and in the home. Still more interesting is the fact of children being encouraged to cultivate bulbs in pots, glasses, and bowls as a means of inculcating a love of nature, finding them a pleasant occupation for leisure moments, and de- veloping the natural instincts of love, work, and delight within the minds of the young. A praiseworthy example FOREWORDS. 5 of this phase of gardening has been set by the educational authorities of Sheffield, who every year distribute many thousands of bulbs to children to grow, and afterwards exhibit for prizes at an annual show. In all ages bulbs and bulb culture seem to have been held in popular esteem. Even the barbarous Turk in bygone days excelled in the culture of the Tulip and Ranunculus, and regarded the plants as priceless trea- sures. The Greeks and the Romans, moreover, delighted in growing lilies and hyacinths; and, in later days, history shows that the Flemish and Dutch indulged in the cultivation and admiration of a host of 'bul- bous and tuberous - rooted plants. In Holland and in France, indeed, the rage for rearing and cultivating tulips was carried on to such a degree that it de- veloped into a mania. History affirms that in the seventeenth century the craze for these bulbs was so great that as large a sum as 10,000,000 sterling was received in Haarlem and district for new or rare tulips. For a single bulb of a variety named Semper Augustus the price of 4,600 florins, together with a new carriage, harness, etc., was paid. In other instances a single bulb was sold for twelve acres of land, and another for securities of the value of 5,000. Failing to secure the price asked from any one person, lotteries were arranged, and bulbs dis- posed of in that way. The result was, as in the modern instance of the potato boom, wealthy folk who gambled in so wild a speculation were reduced to absolute beggary, and the Government compelled to suppress the mania. Fortunately, in England no such craze has arisen. Lovers of daffodils, however, who are possessed of wealth do not hesitate to pay high prices for novelties, especially the newer varieties of narcissi. One of the great charms of bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants is the fact of their flowering mainly at a period of 6 FOREWORDS. the year when there is a paucity of other flowering plants. As Thomson has so happily expressed in verse : " Fair-handed Spring unbosoms ev'ry grace, Throws out the Snowdrop, and the Crocus first; The Daisy, Primrose, Violet darkly blue, And Polyanthus of unnumbered dyes; The yellow "Wallflower, stained with iron brown ; And lavish Stock that scents the garden round ; From the soft wings of vernal breezes shed, Anemones; Auriculas enriched With shining meal o'er all their velvet leaves ; And full Ranunculus, of glowing red. Then comes the Tulip race, where, Beauty plays Her idle freaks; from family diffused To family, as flies the father dust, The varied colours run; and while they break On the charmed, eye, th' exulting florist marks, With secret pride, the wonders of his hand. No gradual bloom is wanting; from the bud, First-born of Spring, to Summer's musky wiles : Nor Hyacinths, of purest virgin white, Low-bent, and blushing inward: nor Jonquils, Of potent fragrance ; nor Narcissus fair, As o'er the fabled fountain hanging still ; Nor broad Carnations, nor gay spotted Pinks; Nor showered from ev'ry bush, the Damask rose. Infinite numbers, delicacies, smells, With hues on hues expression cannot paint, The breath of Nature, and her endless bloom." And not only in spring, but in dreary autumn and wintry days, to say nothing of summer, we have in the great family of bulbs and tubers precious blossom to add colour and gaiety to our gardens, window-sills, etc. In winter, for example, the hardy cyclamens, winter aco- nites, snowdrops, and some of the irises grace the rockery or the lawn with chaste and simple beauty. In spring the gay crocus, squill, narcissi, star-flower, Glory of the Snow, many irises, tulips, hyacinth, bluebell, anemone, dog's- tooth violet and grape hyacinth are a few of the many beautiful bulbs and flowers that will flood the mead, woodland, and garden with a plethora of precious richly- coloured blossom. And what shall we say of summer days, when lilies galore, Spanish and English irises, early FOREWORDS, 7 gladioli, ixias, sparaxis, and a host of other beautiful kinds, including the stately Eremuri, shed their floral re- fulgence on the garden and fill the air with dreamy fra- grance? And when russety autumn arrives there are the meadow saffrons, the autumn crocuses and cyclamen, the gorgeous gladioli, and so on, to vie with the richness of the dying autumnal tints. As in our gardens, so in our greenhouses, we have a wealth of really beautiful subjects to cheer us in autumn, winter, and spring; indeed, if it were not for the great variety of bulbs, and the easiness with which they lend themselves to being forced into flower, our greenhouses and hot-houses would not be the bright and cheer- ful spots they are in autumn and winter days. Bulbs, indeed, are indispensable members of the vege- table kingdom, and it is well that we have not only a large number of genera and species, but also, thanks to home and Dutch growers, such a wonderful number of pretty varieties to suit all conditions of growth and all tastes as regards form and colour. In the gladioli, narcissi, and cottage or May-flowering tulip families we have, indeed, a glorious wealth of colour, mostly the product of enterpris- ing growers in England and Ireland. It is a great satis- faction to know that these families of plants can be grown with such signal success commercially in our own coun- try, and that we have not to depend entirely on foreign supplies for them. The Cottage or May -flowering tulips are bulbs of such exquisite loveliness that they deserve a place in every garden. They come into flower in May and June, and help to form a connecting link between the ordinary spring-flowering and the summer-blooming bulbs. We cannot too strongly impress upon our readers the inesti- mable value of these tulips for massing in the borders or naturalising in grass, and everyone should make a point of growing some, at least, of the varieties and species named elsewhere. We might also speak in equally glow- 8 FOREWORDS, ing terms of praise about the glories of the many precious types and varieties of the Narcissi family. Lastly, we would strongly counsel the reader to study the tabulated list of hardy bulbs, and note the many kinds there advised for culture on rockeries. If it stimulates him to grow them, and to carpet the surface with lowly alpine plants, he will indeed derive great pleasure from the pursuit. And, above all, if the reader will only cultivate hardy bulbs in his cold house he will de- rive far greater satisfaction from them than from ordi- nary plants, and add immensely to the pleasure and profit of that most ancient and inspiring of all pursuits the art and craft of gardening. In issuing a second edition of this work the Author has taken advantage of the opportunity to revise the text, add new illustrations, and bring the tabulated lists and selec- tions up to date. The work has thus been made as replete as is possible for its size and price on the subject of bulb culture in the garden, greenhouse, and the home. T. W. S. 1913. Bulbs and their Cultivation. Part I. -HARDY BULBS. CHAPTER I. BULBS, CORMS AND TUBERS. IN the various chapters in this work frequent use of the terms bulb, corm, and tuber has been made in connection with cultural and other details. The experienced gar- dener and the botanist know, of course, precisely what these terms mean, and to what genera of plants they strictly apply. Not so, however, those who have had little experience of gardening and botany, and, as this work is primarily intended for the latter class, it is de- sirable that we should give a brief explanation of each term. What is a Bulb? A bulb may be defined as a modi- fied underground stem surrounded at its base with fleshy scales rolled round each other, as in the case of the hya- cinth, or overlapping, as in a lily bulb. The scales are really modified leaves, and their office is to hold food in 10 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. A. TYPES OP BULBS. A, Lily bulb, showing overlapping scales. B, Scilla bnlb, showing: scales rolled id each other. 0, Tulip bulb, with smooth scales. D. round rough rolled scales. Narcissus bulb, with BULBS, CORMS AND TUBERS. 11 reserve for supporting the embryo stem and flowers within until new roots form to collect additional food to meet the requirements of the new growing stem. Thus the fleshy 3. TYPES OF CORMS. A, Oorm of a Gladiolus. B, Corm of a Gladiolus after a season's growth. Below is the base of the old exhausted corm with new conns on top. The small nodules on the roots are " connlets " or " spawn " which may be grown on to make flowering corms. C, Crocus corm. scales are storehouses of food collected by the roots and elaborated by the leaves, and sent down by them the pre- 12 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. vious year in readiness for the new stems to draw upon the next season. It naturally follows, therefore, that if the leaves are removed from the bulbs before they have turned quite yellow and withered, less reserve food is stored up in the scales, and the embryo spike or flower stem has, consequently, an insufficient supply to enable it to develop fully. Let the leaves complete their work of manufacturing all the raw food sent up by the roots into elaborated or reserve food to be stored up in the scales, and then good flowers may be expected the next year. What is a Corm ? A corm is in general outward ap- pearance like a bulb; but if the bulb of, say, a hyacinth and the corm of a crocus be cut through, the difference will be seen at once. Instead of fleshy scales, we shall find a solid substance with just a few faint ridges on the outside. These ridges are the remains of the few thin scales the corm produced in a younger stage of develop- ment. The fleshy solid contents of the corm are reserve food prepared in the same way as that described in the case of bulbs. This reserve food is wholly utilised by the young growth and flowers, and at the end of the season the corm which contained it will be found shrivelled up, and new corms formed to take its place. A bulb practi- cally goes on increasing in size year by year, if properly grown, but a corm exists for one season only, its place being taken by younger ones partly formed out of the re- serve food of its parent and new food elaborated by the leaves. Examine the corm of a crocus, gladiolus, or Tritonia (Montbretia) at the end of the season. What is a Tuber? A tuber is a swollen under- ground stem, which may simply be an enlargement of a portion of a root, as in the case of Tropaeolum tuberosum, and of one season's duration only; or an individual growth of perennial duration, as in the case of the Winter Aconite, Gloxinia, and Tuberous-rooted Begonia. It has almost invisible leaf -scales upon its outer surface, and a solid BULBS, CORMS AND TUBERS. 13 body within composed of reserve food for supporting future growth. In the case of the Tropseolum, as in that of the Potato, the old tuber gives up all its reserve food to the new growth, and eventually perishes; but in the case of the Gloxinia it only supplies a portion of the food, and has the power of absorbing additional food each year, and TYPES OF TUBERS. A, Tuber of Erythronium dens-canis. B, Tubers of AlstrQmeria. C, Tuber of an Anemone. thereby increasing in size. Tubers vary a great deal in size and shape, according to the size of the plant. In all cases the primary object of a bulb, corm, or tuber is to store up reserve food, and they may be con- sidered in this respect as analogous to seeds, a means of ensuring the perpetuation of the species. Under the action of sunlight the sap absorbed by the roots is, by the 14 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. aid of chlorophyll in the leaves, converted from a crude state into special food, which is conducted down in due course to the bulb scales and the reservoirs of corm and tuber, to await the requirements of new growth in spring. CHAPTEE II. SOILS AND MANURES. THE majority of hardy bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants will do very well in good ordinary soil, as a reference to the list of genera and species on page 53 will show. A few, however, require special composts, such as peat, leaf-mould, etc. As to manures, bulbs do not appreciate these to the same extent as other hardy plants, a little sufficing to meet their requirements. Most of them like a rich soil, it is true, but if manures are added they must not be of a rank description, nor be placed in close con- tact with the bulbs. Soil. This should be deeply dug, in order to ensure free drainage and absence of stagnant water. Heavy soils should be liberally dressed with grit and leaf-mould, in addition to well-rotted manure. The earlier the soil can be dug and got ready before planting the better. The old florists used to pay a good deal of attention to this matter, and the modern ones would be well advised also to do so. Bulbs generally do best in a sandy loam. The secret of the bulb industry in Holland is due entirely to the sandy soil and the judicious use of cow manure. Those, there- fore, who possess a sandy soil may hope to grow bulbs SOILS AND MANURES, 15 well. But heavy soils, if treated as above advised, will do equally well for bulb growing in gardens. The best form of leaf -mould is that obtained from an oak coppice. Ordinary leaf-mould made from elm, lime, sycamore, and poplar leaves is not so good, because it is apt to introduce fungi to the soil. The peat, too, should not be too light, spongy, fibry, or boggy in nature, but of a medium tex- ture, and the best sand to use is the coarse silver sand. Cocoanut-fibre refuse also comes in handy for mulching the surface after planting. Manures. For light soils decayed cow manure is best, and for heavy ones well-rotted horse manure is the most suitable. Both should be buried six inches for small bulbs and a foot below the surface for the large ones. When the bulbs are in full growth their roots will then easily reach the manure and benefit by it. When the manure is near the surface the roots cannot derive any benefit from it; moreover, if it should happen to touch the bulbs it invariably subjects them to disease. Arti- ficial manures are very beneficial to bulbs if judiciously applied. On the heavier soils apply basic slag at the rate of 4oz. per square yard, and kainit at the rate of loz. per square yard. On light soils superphosphate should be used instead of basic slag, at the rate of IJoz. per square yard, and kainit at the same rate as advised for a heavy soil. In both cases apply in autumn, when preparing the soil. Bone-meal is also a good artificial manure for a heavy soil, and should be used at the same rate as advised for slag. For a spring dressing, in default of an autumn application, apply IJoz. of superphosphate and Joz. of sulphate of potash per square yard, forking it in. A good all-round fertiliser for permanent and temporary bulbs is the following: Mix together one part by weight of kainit, two parts of mineral phosphate, half a part of nitrate of soda, and a quarter part of sulphate of iron. Apply one ounce of this mixture to every square foot of soil occupied 16 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. by the bulbs, or a quarter-ounce to each six-inch pot when the bulbs have begun to show their flower-stems. Out- door bulbs, especially those of a permanent nature, ought also to be liberally mulched with rotten manure in early spring to keep the soil cool and prevent evaporation of moisture. CHAPTER III. LIFTING AND STORING BULBS. SOME bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants succeed best if lifted, dried, stored, and replanted in autumn or spring. Others, again, merely require to be lifted in autumn and replanted at once; while the majority may be grown in the ground all the year and only lifted and replanted every few years. Although this subject has been briefly referred to in some of the chapters dealing with outdoor bulbs, it will be more helpful to the reader if we deal with it more fully and specifically here. The Object of Lifting: is a threefold one. First of all, it enables certain bulbs which do not ripen satisfac- torily in the soil to be well ripened by exposure to the air and storage in a dry atmosphere. Secondly, it enables the site they occupy to be planted with other plants for a portion of the year; and, thirdly, it affords an opportunity of seperating the mature flowering-sized bulbs from the non-flowering offsets, and so make sure of having colonies of bulbs uniform in the number and quality of their flowers. Bulbs Requiring: to be Annually Lifted. Those that need to be lifted, dried, stored, and replanted LIFTING AND SORTING BULBS, 17 annually are: Hyacinths, Darwin, Parrot, and ordinary bedding tulips ; babianas, calochorti ; bedding crocuses only, gladioli, ixias, Milla bifiora, anemones, tuberous- rooted begonias, ranunculi, sparaxi, Tropreolum tuberosum, and tigridias. The hyacinths, tulips, and crocuses should either remain in their flowering positions until the foliage has turned yellow and withered; or, if their site be required for summer plants, be lifted and replanted at once in a reserve bed till growth is completed. The ixias, babianas, calochorti, millas, and sparaxi must be permitted to remain in the soil until they have lost their foliage. The same remarks apply to the anemones and ranunculi. The gladioli and tigridias should be lifted at the end of October. All, except the two last, should be divested of dead foliage, loose scales, and dead roots, and stored in shallow boxes in a cool, airy shed to get quite dry, when store in any cool place till planting time. The gladioli and tigridias should be tied in small bunches, and hung up in an airy shed till quite dry ; then be cleared of dead foliage and offsets. Store the tigridias and tropseolum tubers in dry silver sand, and the gladioli in shallow boxes in a cool frost-proof place. Tuberous-rooted begonias should be lifted in September, placed close together in shallow boxes in a greenhouse till the leaves wither; then have the stems and leaves twisted off and the tubers stored in fibre refuse in a heated greenhouse. Anemones and ranunculi should be placed thinly in boxes in a cool shed, and, when quite dry, be divested of dead foliage and then stored in boxes in a cool, dry place. Narcissi used for bedding may be treated like hyacinths. Bulbs Requiring Annual Lifting: and Replant. ing 1 . The only kinds needing to be lifted and replanted annually are the crocosmias and the tritonias or mont- bretias. The corms have a tendency to push themselves to the top of the soil, and hence are best replanted each November. c 18 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Bulbs Requiring: Periodical Lifting. Ml the narcissi grown in borders are best lifted every third or fourth year. If left longer the bulbs are apt to flower sparsely, owing to soil exhaustion and overcrowding by offsets. The bulbs should be lifted in July, when the leaves have quite faded, then be placed in shallow boxes in a cool place till quite dry. Afterwards divest them of dead foliage and offsets, and store in boxes as advised for other bulbs till replanting time. Other genera requiring similar treatment are alliums, brevoortias, brodiaeas, bulbo- codiums, camassias, chionodoxas, colchicums, crocus species, fritillarias, snowdrops, galtonias, hyacinthuses, irises, leucojums, ornithogalums, puschkinias, scillas, and sternbergias. Lilies do not require lifting and transplant- ing so long as they are doing well. In case lifting is necessary, the bulbs of candidum are best lifted and replanted directly after flowering, and the remaining species in November. A golden rule to observe in the case of all bulbs that only need periodical relifting is not to do it oftener than necessary. So long as they grow and flower well leave them alone. A Special Note In the case of bulbs naturalised in turf, or in mixed borders, there is no necessity to lift them unless they show signs of deterioration. CHAPTER IV. BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS. BULBS, especially those that flower in spring, are popular subjects for bed and border culture in gardens of all dimen- sions. Hyacinths and tulips are particularly well adapted for growing in formal lines or rows, beds, and borders. In BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS, 19 borders of more ample scope quite a wealth of beautiful spring, summer, and autumn-flowering bulbs may, how- ever, be grown in a less formal fashion, in groups or masses, in conjunction with other hardy plants, and this is really the most effective way of growing them. I. CULTURE IN BEDS. Colour Schemes When grown in beds the reader has the choice of growing a number of kinds, arranged in rows or circles according to height; or, as in the case of a group of beds, of devoting a bed to each kind. In either event a good effect can only be ensured by planting the bulbs according to a properly-defined colour scheme. Beds planted with mixed varieties of hyacinths or tulips are an exception to this rule, since their colours will blend harmoniously ; but, where rows or lines of distinct colour are used, then attention should be paid to arranging those colours that properly harmonise with each other. Gene- rally speaking, shades of red, pink, rose, salmon, and scarlet; purple, lilac, and yellow; crimson, blue, and white; and yellow and orange, blend nicely together; whereas red and yellow, yellow and blue, violet and red, scarlet and yellow, orange and magenta, or crimson and orange are offensive mixtures, which should be strictly avoided. Bulbs Carpeted with Spring-flowering; Plants. The modern plan is, as far as possible, to plant one colour of hyacinth or tulip in a bed, and to carpet the surface with some spring-flowering plant. Thus a bed of crimson tulips or blue hyacinths carpeted with the white- flowered double arabis or a white viola; or yellow daffo- dils with a groundwork of orange polyanthus, Purple Queen wallflower, or aubrietia; white hyacinths or tulips with blue forget-me-nots or blue viola; scarlet tulips or hyacinths with pink Silene pendula compacta ; or salmon o 2 20 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, hyacinths with double-red daisies, are effective combina- tions. In mixed arrangements it is advisable to have mixed crocuses for an edging, followed by a band of mixed tulips, and mixed hyacinths in the centre. Large beds might be planted with mixed crocuses or snowdrops and scillas as an edging, followed by the following colours in their order of names, viz., white, pink, rose, crimson, and scarlet. The advantage of carpeting the beds with plants is first of all covering the bare soil, and, secondly, providing a succession of colour up to June, as the plants usually con- tinue to flower after the bulbs have ceased to do so. Care, too, should be taken to plant those varieties of bulbs together that naturally flower at the same period. Seeds- men will, if requested, make the proper selection to flower 10 *< How TO PLANT BULBS. 1, Snowdrop. 2, Crocus. 3, Anemone. 4, Scilla. 5, Narcissus. 6. " Dibber " for planting bulbs. 6c, Adjustable slide to "dibber." 7, Tulip. 8, Lilium. 9, Hyacinth. 10, Wrong way to plant bulbs. \_Photo : /. Tyler. TULIPS NATURALISED ON A GRASSY BANK. The variety portrayed is Rose Grisdeiin, a delicate and white tinted early-flowering single tulip. Equally well suited for beds. BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS. 21 at the same period. It must, of course, be understood that such bulbs as snowdrops, scillas, and crocuses usually flower in advance of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils. Time to Plant. The precise season or period to plant each kind of bulb is described in the table pub- lished further on in this work. Soil and Planting: The next point for considera- tion is the preparation of the soil and the planting. To grow tulips and hyacinths well, the beds should be dug two spits deep in early October, and have about three inches of well-rotted manure placed a foot below the sur- face. On no account mix manure with the upper layer of soil, as bulbs dislike to have manure in direct contact with them. If the soil be heavy, old potting mould, sand, and leaf-mould may be freely mixed with the surface mould. Bulbs, like hyacinths, tulips, and narcissi, should be planted with their base four inches from the surface and six inches apart. Those of smaller size, like the crocus, should not be planted deeper than three inches, and the same distance apart. Bulbs like chionodoxas should be put in about three inches deep and an inch or so apart. Use a flat-bottomed dibber for making the holes, so that the base of the bulb rests directly on the soil. We prefer to use a trowel for the large bulbs, and to simply press the smaller ones in with our fingers. It is a good plan in the case of choice tulips, narcissi, and hyacinths to put a pinch of silver sand in each hole for the bulb to rest on. After planting, mulch the surface of the bed with fibre refuse to keep it neat and as a protection to the bulbs. When hardy plants are grown as a carpeting to the bulbs it is advisable to plant the latter eight to ten inches apart, and to put one of the plants before described between each pair of bulbs. The plants should be put in at the same time as the bulbs. In spring, when the growth is above the soil, lightly loosen it with a hoe or fork. Stak- ing is rarely necessary, except in exposed positions, and then it should be done soon after the spikes show. 22 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, Lifting- Bulbs, etcAfter flowering, the bulbs should be carefully lifted and replanted in reserve beds to complete their growth, after which again lift, dry, and store away, as advised in the chapter on Lifting and Storing elsewhere. The polyanthus and double daisies must also be lifted, divided, and replanted in a shady border to make strong growths for autumn planting. Cuttings should also be taken of the double arabis and aubrietias, to ensure a fresh supply of plants, while the violas may be replanted elsewhere to furnish cuttings for rooting in August and September. The forget-me-nots, wallflowers, and the silenes are best reared annually from seed in July. II. CULTURE IN BORDERS. Soil and Position In small gardens, where the borders do not exceed three feet wide, the bulbs may be grown in rows; say, a row of crocuses as an edging, fol- lowed by rows behind of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils; they may be planted in groups of three, six, or a dozen bulbs. In large gardens, where the borders are six or more feet wide, and contain hardy perennials, the bulbs are best grown in bold groups between the hardy plants. Thus lilies may be grown in groups of not less than three bulbs up to six or twelve bulbs; hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, gladioli, 'Crocosmia, anemones, tritonias, English and Spanish irises in groups of a dozen or more bulbs; and smaller bulbs, like crocuses, snowdrops, muscaris, scillas, chionodoxas, Allium moly, ranunculi, etc., in patches of fifty or a hundred bulbs. Crown Imperial lilies should also be grown in groups of three or six bulbs to look well. Bulbs, conns, etc., always look more effective when boldly massed than when grown in small groups. Small or low- growing bulbs may be carpeted with violas, double arabis, or aubrietias; then, when the former have ceased flower- ing, the latter can take their place, the bulbs remaining in BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS, 23 the soil all the year round. For ordinary purposes the average border soil will suffice, but it must be clearly understood that to get the best results with choice kinds the special soils for each one recommended in the list of hardy bulbs and tubers must be provided. Special atten- tion must also be given to kinds that require full sun, par- tial shade, or complete shade. The times for planting and the depth to plant will also be found in the list on p. 43. Anemones and ranunculi require a rich, well-manured soil to grow them well. The soil, therefore, should be dug two spits deep, and have plenty of rotten manure and leaf- mould mixed with it. If heavy, add a free supply of grit. Gladioli like a rich soil also, but in this case the manure must not be in direct contact with the corms, but placed six inches below. Mulchings of manure on the sur- face are, however, most beneficial, and should be given without hesitation. Lilies require special treatment, and so we shall deal with them in a separate chapter. General Treatment Regarding the treatment of bulbs generally in borders, all except gladioli, tigridias, anemones, and ranunculi, and cottage tulips may be left all the year round in the borders, lifting and replanting every third or fourth year, as explained in the chapter on lifting and storing bulbs and tubers. In no case should the foliage be removed until it has withered. The foliage is indispensable to the last moment for enabling the bulb to store up its reserve food for next year's growth and flowering. Carpeting Bulbs in Borders. A very pretty effect will be obtained by planting the various bulbs wider apart than usual, and then placing polyanthuses, forget-me-nots, silenes, double daisies, primroses, double arabis, aubrie- tias, violas, violettas, and pansies between, to come into flower at same time or a little later than the bulbs. See remarks in connection with bulb culture in beds. 24 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. CHAPTER V. BULBS ON ROCKERIES. THOSE who possess a rockery may derive a good deal of pleasure from the cultivation of the many kinds of dwarf bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants described in the list published on p. 43. The chionodoxas, puschkinias, alliums, bravoas, brodiaeas, calochorti, colchicums, crocuses, ery- throniums, fritillarias, galanthuses, irises, muscaris, nar- cissi, as minimus and Bulbocodium, hymenocallis, cycla- men, and a few of the tulips are examples of various in- teresting genera of bulbs and tubers that are well adapted for rockery culture. Carpeting: Plants for Bulbs The elevated soil of a properly-constructed rockery ensures a well-drained site, just what most bulbs like, and the nooks and crannies afford ideal homes for small colonies of these lowly and interest- ing plants. As many of the foregoing genera flower and complete their growth early, it is a good plan to grow some dwarf alpine plant as a carpet or groundwork for clothing the bare soil in summer, and as a means of pro- tection to the more tender bulbs in winter. Good plants for this purpose are the charming violettas, which Mr. D. B. Crane so enthusiastically describes in his book on " Pansies and Violets," and also aubrietias, Antennaria tomentosa, Arenaria balearica, montana, and purpurascens, Acaena microphylla, Campanula pulla, hederacea, and caes- pitosa, Lina-ria alpina and repens, Mentha Eequieni, Oxalis corniculata rubra, Saxifraga hypnoides and muscoides, Veronica repens and saxatilis, Hutchinsia alpina, Phlox canadensis, procumbens, reptans, and subulata, and Sedum acre, glaucum, and dasyphyllum. These are all very dwarf evergreen plants, not exceeding three inches BULBS ON ROCKERIES. 25 high, that will form a dense carpet of foliage, as well as produce a mass of flowers and add an additional attraction to the rockery. It may be thought that these plants will impoverish the soil and affect the growth of the bulbs. As a rule, however, this does not occur. In any case if the bulbs should show signs of deterioration it is an easy matter to lift them when their foliage has died down, and replenish the soil, afterwards replanting as before. Apart from clothing the bare surface and protecting the bulbs in winter, the carpeting of foliage intensifies the beauty of such bulbs as produce their flowers before their leaves, as in the case of autumn and spring flowering crocuses and colchicums, for example. There are several annuals that may be sown in April as carpeting plants for small colonies of bulbs. For in- stance, there is the Sweet Alyssum, and Asperula setosa azurea, Clintonia (Downingia) elegans and pulchella, Erinus alpinus (strictly a perennial, but may be grown as an annual). Gypsophila elegans and muralis, and Lepto- siphon (Gilia) densiflora, are also dwarf kinds specially suitable for the purpose. Soil and Position. Each genus or family of bulbs will require its own special soil and position, details of which are given in the lists published on p. 48. There also will be found information as to depth and distance apart to plant the bulbs, and the proper time to do so. Strict at- tention must be paid to all these points in order to ensure success. Some of the bulbs, too, may require to be lifted and replanted annually, particulars of which are supplied in the chapter on lifting and storing. Hardy cyclamen will be benefited by an annual mulching of rotten manure, which should be supplied when growth is at rest. Protection. Calochorti, babianas, ixias, and such irises as bakeriana, persica, and histrioides, should be pro- tected from rains during the ripening period by covering 26 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. them With a bell-glass or hand-light. Indeed, in severe weather the very early-flowering kinds ought also to be protected thus, in order to permit their flowers to develop without injury by heavy rains, frosts, and cold winds. CHAPTER VI. NATURALISING BULBS. THE old-time method of growing bulbous and tuberous- rooted plants in lines and circles in beds and borders has, happily, lost a good deal of its popularity during the last two or three decades. Lovers of hardy flowers are gradu- ally becoming more sensible in their ideas and tastes, and growing them in a more rational, effective, and artistic manner than of yore. Witness the delightful and pleasing displays of spring-flowering bulbs in our public parks, and in the large private gardens, for instance. There you ob- serve thousands of snowdrops, crocuses, or daffodils massed either in the open lawn or under the shade of trees, in woodland or shrubbery, and flooding the landscape with golden, purple, or white blossoms in the spring. Truly, a charming picture of floral beauty, and a thousand times more artistic and natural than the old-time formal dis- plays. It is true that this modern plan is mainly applicable to gardens of ample scope. But even in a small garden there are ways and means of growing hardy bulbs and tubers effectively other than in the stereotyped old-fashioned plan of lines and circles. For example, on a small grass plot it is possible to grow small groups of snowdrops, crocuses, and daffodils, or in patches in the borders with a good LILIUM ATJKATUM. The popular Golden-rayed Japanese Lily. There are several varieties described on page 61. NATURALISING BULBS. 27 effect. In those of a larger size, rockeries, terrace slopes, shrubbery borders, lawns, and open glades in the woodland afford a splendid opportunity for growing spring bulbs effectively. And then those who are privileged to have their homes surrounded by meadows, which can be kept free from live stock till summer arrives, may, indeed, have a glorious wealth of saffron and ivory-tinted narcissi, chequered fritillarias, blue and white anemones, and a host of other lovely spring-flowering bulbs and tubers with jewelled blossoms scintillating in a setting of exquisite emerald-green herbage from March to June. But let us cease these generalities and deal more specifically with the various ways to grow bulbs and tubers in a natural, pleasing, and effective manner. Bulbs on Lawns Bulbs and tuberous-rooted plants may be grown in bold masses in the open lawn, under the spreading branches of deciduous trees, around the base of the branches of evergreen trees or shrubs, rockeries, or rock beds, and on grassy terrace slopes. Bulbs and tubers do well under the branches of deciduous trees, be- cause at the time of flowering there is little shade and plenty of light filtering through from above. Then tufts of narcissi or snowdrops, peeping up through the ground- swept branches of evergreen trees, look exceedingly pretty in spring. Moreover, what looks prettier in spring than a terrace slope spangled with the white, purple, blue, and gold of snowdrop, squill, crocus, and daffodil? The main secret of growing bulbs in turf is not to cut off the foliage until it has turned yellow, and finished its good work of supplying the bulb with plenty of reserve food. Those who have a craze for tidiness, and must cut off the foliage when the flowers fade, had better leave the culture of bulbs in turf alone, for they will never flower satisfactorily after the first season. It is an easy matter where bulbs are grown on a small scale to cut the grass between the groups, and leave the rest till the foliage of the bulbs has finished its work. 28 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. To secure the most pleasing effect when the bulbs are in flower, simply scatter them as you would seeds, and then plant them just where they lie. Never arrange them in a set pattern. Take an object lesson from Nature, and note the way she scatters her primroses on hedge bank or in copse, or the daisies in the meadow. Of course, in a very small garden the bulbs may be grouped in patches of a dozen or so. Bulbs like those of the daffodil should be planted about four inches, and smaller ones, like snow- drops, three inches deep. Ues a dibber for making the holes, one with not too sharp a point. If a pointed dibber be used, put a pinch of soil in each hole for the bulb to rest on. Messrs. Barr and Son, bulb specialists, make a spe- cial tool for planting bulbs which is infinitely superior to the dibber. Where only a limited quantity of bulbs are to be planted lift the turf, fork up the soil and plant the bulbs, then replace the turf. It is not possible, of course, to scatter the bulbs on a sloping terrace bank. In this case, simply plant the bulbs a few inches apart, and thicker in some places than others. Suitable bulbs and tubers to grow in the manner de- scribed anywhere on the lawn are: Bulbs: Snowdrops, crocuses, chionodoxas, scillas, muscaris, leucojums, daffo- dils, Brodiaea violacea, erythroniums, and tulips. Tubers: Cyclamen and winter aconite. See pp. 43 to 76. Bulbs in Pastures. As previously explained, bulbs and tubers may be grown in meadows, pastures, or grass orchards, out of which cattle are kept during the flowering period. We know of no phase of floral beauty so attrac- tive as bold masses of fritillarias, tulips, narcissi, crocuses, snowdrops, Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalums), chiono- doxas, colchicums, Hyacinthus amethystinus and azureus, leucojums, Muscari conicum (Heavenly Blue), Scilla his- panica and sibirica, in flower during the springtime. If the grass be left uncut till mid-July the bulbs will rapidly increase and produce a wealth of colour, the beauty of NATURALISING BULBS. 29 which will be greatly intensified by the surrounding green grass and wild flora. Here, again, each kind of bulb should be grown in large colonies by themselves, scattering the bulbs like seeds on the surface, and then planting them by means of a Barr Bulb Planter. Bulbs on Hedge Banks. Bulbs like Muscari coni- cum (Heavenly Blue), hardy cyclamen, tulips, narcissi, crocus, scillas, bluebells, snowdrops, and narcissi add lustre and beauty to a hedge bank in spring. In many gardens rough hedge banks often exist, and these may be made extremely pretty and interesting by planting colonies of the foregoing bulbs in company with primroses and white and blue anemones. One of the prettiest banks we have ever seen was one planted thickly with Muscari Heavenly Blue and yellow primroses. In a well-ordered garden no spot should be left unplanted with a few spring bulbs. Bulbs in Woodlands. Woodland spaces fringing paths, or such as can readily be seen, may be turned to account by planting large colonies of bluebells, Muscari eonicum (Heavenly Blue), and daffodils. In smaller colo- nies near the paths, Winter Aconite, cottage tulips, Crown Imperial lilies, Snake's-head Frit ill arias, Leucojum vernum, Ornithogalum arabicum, Allium Moly, Dodeca- theon media, Erythronium Dens-canis, snowdrops, cro- cuses, and larger colonies of such lilies as candidum, um- bellatum, giganteum, and pyrenaicum may be grown with good effect. In springtime and summer the woodland garden will then be a veritable paradise of exquisite beauty, and add greatly to the charm of the surroundings of home. Bulbs in Shrubbery Borders. In large gardens there are often acres of shrubbery borders with large patches of earth under deciduous trees that might be uti- 30 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, lised to good effect by growing any of the bulbs named for the woodland garden. Certainly the white and the blue common bluebell, and Spanish bluebell (Scilla hispanica) in its several varieties, might be grown under the trees, and the other kinds grouped on the margins of the borders. Bulbs that have been used for forcing or pot culture might be utilised, too, for such positions. Bulbs by the Waterside Several lilies do well in moist soil on the margins of water, as, for example, L. Burbankii; canadense, and its varieties; carniolicum and carolineum; pardalinum, and its varieties; Parryi, phila- delphicum, Roezlii, and parvum, Fritillaria meleagris and its varieties, Narcissus odorus, poeticus, Emperor, Empress, Sir Watkin, Barrii conspicuus, Stella superba, and Duchess of Westminster. These grouped in colonies will not only flourish, but also flower profusely every year. Bulbs on Banks. On rough grassy banks crocuses, snowdrops, and Poet's Narcissus invariably do well, and may be planted in good bold masses. OUTDOOR LILIES. 31 CHAPTER VII. OUTDOOR LILIES. LILIUMS are such an important genus of plants, and form such a strong feature in garden decoration, that they deserve a fuller appreciation of their worth and a more extended description of their cultural needs than is possible in the chapters dealing with bulbs generally. We shall therefore devote a special chapter to their cultivation. So numerous are the species and varieties that, to do them justice, they almost need a special monograph to themselves. One might, indeed, devote a garden entirely to their culture if one wished to grow them in large colonies. A garden of lilies carpeted with violas, pansies, or violettas would be a striking and most interesting feature, but, as such a scheme would require ample space, most lovers of these stately flowers could not avail them- selves of such a luxury, and hence must be content with growing a few of the many species and varieties described on p. 61, in small groups in the mixed borders. And, after all, this is by no means an ineffective way of growing lilies. They certainly have an imposing and stately appearance when grown in groups of three or more in company with other tall subjects in the hardy plant border. What is more stately than a well-grown single specimen of L. giganteum, with its noble spike towering to a height of ten or twelve feet, and what more chaste and beautiful than a group of the Madonna lily ! Anyway, there are no more beautiful garden flowers than the liliums, or that will better reward the grower for careful culture. Some of the kinds will succeed in ordinary soil; others in a prepared soil of loam, leaf-mould, and peat ; and 32 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, others in peat and leaf-mould only. We shall therefore divide the lilies into three groups, and deal with each separately so far as soil and position are concerned. Lilies for Ordinary Soils._In the first group, which includes the following species and their varieties, namely, Batemannise, bulbiferum, candidum, chalcedoni- cum, concolor, coridon, croceum, davuricum, excelsum, elegans, Hansoni, Henryi, longiflorum, Marhan, Marta- gon, pomponium, pyrenaicum, speciosum, tenuifolium, tigrinum, and umbellatum, ordinary garden soil will suffice. If it should be heavy, lighten it with sand and rotten manure; if very light, add rotten cow manure. Dig the soil deeply, and then the lilies will not fail to do well. The foregoing kinds will all do best in a sunny bed or border. Lilies for Rich Soils. In the second group a rich, deep, and good soil is essential. Peat and leaf-mould should be freely mixed with the natural soil. The subsoil must also be fairly moist. Where there is the slightest risk of the subsoil being dry, take out the soil to a depth of two feet, and place six inches of cow manure at the bottom, then six inches of soil on top, and fill up with equal parts of loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Do not mix manure with the upper layer of soil. In such a soil the following species and varieties will succeed; Auratum, bakerianum, Bolanderi, Brownii, callosum, columbianum, cordifolium, giganteum, Humboldtii, japonicum, Kelloggii, kewense, Krameri, Leichtlini, Martagon album and dalmaticum, Maximowiczii, monadelphum, pulchellum, rubellum, washingtonianum, and sulphureum. Lilies for Shady Positions In the third group we have lilies that require special soil, shade, and moisture. Thus, beds of peat and leaf-mould, or leaf-mould only, are essential, and these should be in partial shade. The beds should be made between peat-loving shrubs in the bog NANKEEN LILY, LILIUM TESTAQEUM. This Lily, known also as Liliuni excelsum, grows four to six feet high, bears lovely" Nankeen yellow flowers in July, and will grow in any fairly good soil in a sunny position. REMBRANDT TULIPS. A irace of Tulips allied to the Darwiu type, and noteworthy for their rich and beautiful colours. Excellent for massing in beds and borders. OUTDOOR LILIES. 33 garden, or on the margins of a pond or lake where the lily roots can get plenty of moisture in summer. The species that require to be grown thus are: Burbankii, canadense, carniolicum, pardalinuin, Parryi, philadelphi- cum, Koezlii rubescens, and superbum. L. giganteum also does well in partial shade, and may be grown in bold groups in open spaces in woodlands. Grouping: LiliesGenerally speaking, all lilies are the better for having their bulbs and roots shaded from hot sunshine, and hence it is always an advantage to plant the bulbs in shrubberies or borders, where foliage can shield the soil from the sun. Lilies, moreover, also show to the best effect when grouped or massed together, not grown singly dotted about the borders. It is wise, too, to plant each species and its varieties by itself, then the effect is more pleasing. Lilies look well grouped among hardy ferns or peeping here and there out o! shrubs. Planting. As to planting and the time to plant. The planting may be done in October and November or in March. The earlier period is the best where home-grown bulbs can be obtained. Bulbs that have basal roots only should be planted three inches deep, each bulb being placed on a layer of silver sand and also surrounded by it before covering in with soil. Those that produce stem as well as basal roots require to be planted four to six inches deep, to allow the stem roots when they form to have free access to plenty of food. It is the stem roots which supply the shoots and leaves with food; hence, if planted too shallow, the latter will develop too near the surface of the soil. In the case of imported bulbs, examine them carefully and remove all dead scales, then place the bulbs in cocoanut-fibre refuse in shallow boxes for a few weeks to enable them to regain their normal plumpness before replanting. Just before planting also see that plenty of flowers of sulphur is freely blown into the scales of the imported bulbs. 34 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. The Subsequent Culture of Lilies is confined to giving the beds an annual top-dressing of decayed manure in early spring. This precaution is especially necessary in the case of stem -rooting kinds like auratum, Alexandras, Batemannise, Brownii, croceum, Dalhansoni, elegans, Hansoni, Henryi, Krameri, longiflorum, speciosum, and tigrinum, as the stem roots are greatly benefited by the manure. In dry weather, moreover, plenty of water is required, as lilies love moisture. An occasional dose of weak liquid manure will be helpful to bulbs that are flowering freely. So long as lilies are doing well do not interfere with them. When kinds like candidum fail to flower, lift the bulbs at the end of July, and replant in a fresh site ; then they may flower in a year or so. CHAPTER VIII. TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. THE following genera require more or less special treatment than has been advised for bulbs generally, and, although we have, in the tabulated list published elsewhere, described the soil, position, time of planting, etc., for each, there yet remain a few important details which it is essential the reader should know. We will, therefore, give a few additional facts in this chapter. Abobra. This is a half-hardy Brazilian climber requiring to be grown in a warm border at the foot of a south wall, a trellis being provided for the support of the shoots. The tubers have to be lifted in October and stored TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 35 in sand in a frost-proof place, planting out again in June. In warm seasons this plant bears scarlet, egg-shaped fruits in autumn. Increased by offsets. Alstromeria. This genus, popularly known as the Herb Lily, is a native of China and Peru, and requires to be grown in a specially-prepared bed. Dig out the soil to a depth of three feet, and as wide as required. In the bottom place six inches of brick rubble for drainage, then add six inches of rotten manure, and fill up with a compost of equal parts peat, leaf-mould, and sandy loam. In this plant the roots, and each autumn top-dress with a mulch of decayed cow manure. A sunny, sheltered spot is essential for the bed. In very dry seasons give copious supplies of water. Increased by seeds sown in pans or boxes in a cold frame. Seedlings flower when two or three years old. Also increased by division, but it is not wise to disturb the roots too often. Keep all spent flowers removed. Amorphophallus Rivieri.This curious plant is of tender constitution, and can only be grown outdoors in the South of England during summer. The flowers are large, Arum-like, have a foetid smell, and appear before the leaves. The latter are finely divided, and borne umbrella- like on the top of a stout solitary stem. More curious than beautiful. Tubers must be lifted when the foliage dies, and be stored in sand in a hothouse. Increased by division. Anemone. The tuberous-rooted anemones described in the tabulated list are among the gayest of spring-flower- ing plants. Particularly beautiful and richly diversified in colour are the St. Brigid, Nice, Caen, and Chrysan- themum-flowered strains of the Poppy Anemone (A. coro- naria). These require to be grown in a medium soil, not too heavy nor too light. The soil must be deeply dug, and have plenty of decayed manure and leaf-mould worked into it. They prefer a partially shady position, such as D 2 36 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, under the shade of fruit trees, and where there is ample protection from cold winds. The tubers may be planted in October or November for the earliest flowering, and in February or March for successional supplies. Draw drills three inches deep and six inches apart, and plant the tubers six inches apart therein, then cover with soil. In the case of those planted in autumn, place a layer of twiggy tree branches over the bed. This will afford the slight protection the early flowers need. After the foliage has died, lift the tubers, and store them in shallow boxes in a cool place till replanting time. To obtain a good supply of flowers, especially of the St. Brigid strain, it is really better to rear the plants from seed. The seed germinates very readily in good soil, and you get very strong plants. The seeds should be mixed with some sand or dry mould, and the whole well rubbed together to separate the fluffy seeds. They can either be sown broad- cast and raked in or in shallow drills six inches apart. If you buy seeds, try and sow them in January or February, not later ; if you save your own, then sow in July or August, as soon as the seeds are ripe. Seeds sown in March and later do not germinate so freely. Germination takes place very slowly indeed, consequently patience is needed. It usually takes seven months from the time the seed is sown till the plants flower. Those sown early in the year will flower in autumn ; those sown in August the following spring. The beds must be well watered in dry weather. The roots may be allowed to remain in their beds so long as they continue healthy. We prefer to make a fresh sowing annually, and to discard the old roots after flowering. As regard the Scarlet Windflower (A. hortensis fulgens) and its double variety the Peacock Anemone (A. hortensis pavonia), these are best grown on a partially shady rockery, in a compost of rich loam and old mortar. Plant the tubers in autumn, and do not lift annually. Aplos.. A hardy climbing plant bearing fragrant TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 37 brownish-purple, pea-like flowers, and a native of Canada. It requires a warm border at the foot of a sunny wall, and a trellis for its graceful shoots to twine round. The tubers will not require annual lifting. Increased by division of the tubers. The only species is tuberosa. Arum. The Italian Arum (A. italicum) is a tuberous- rooted plant which bears curiously-formed yellowish, creamy, and green flowers, in the form of a spathe, in spring. Its leaves are green veined with white. A curiosity for culture in a well-drained, sunny border. Does not require to be lifted. Increased by offsets. For other so-called Arums see Dracunculus and Helicodiceros. Ascelpias tuberosa. A showy tuberous-rooted perennial which does well in sandy soil on a warm border. It is a very striking plant when well grown, and usually flowers profusely in September and October. Increased by division of the roots in autumn. Begonia. The single and double-flowered varieties of the tuberous-rooted begonia are excellent and showy plants for summer bedding. They do very well in partial shade, as well as in sun, and if planted in good rich soil will make a brave display of colour from June to October. Plants may be reared from seed, as advised on p. 101, but these do not flower so freely as one, two, or three-year-old tubers. In the latter case the tubers should be started in boxes or pots in heat in February, grown on in heat till May, then hardened off and planted out six to twelve inches apart, according to size, late in May. Prior to planting dig in a liberal supply of decayed manure and leaf -mould, to make the soil rich and encourage a healthy growth. In dry weather give copious supplies of water. Early in October lift the plants intact, and place them in boxes in a sunny greenhouse to gradually ripen. When the foliage withers twist off the leaves and stems, and a week or so later store the tubers in cocoanut-fibre refuse in a cool, dry, frost-proof place till February. BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Boussingaultia The Madeira Vine (B. baselloides) bears fragrant white flowers and fleshy leaves on slender annual stems. A suitable plant for covering a sunny trellis or trailing over a bank in summer. Kequires a warm soil. In cold districts lift the tubers in autumn, store in sand, and plant out in spring. Increased by division. Com me Una. The only species (C. ccelestis) is a pretty blue-flowered plant with tuberous roots. There is also a white variety, named alba, and both do well in sea- side or sunny gardens. In well-drained soils this Mexican plant can be grown permanently in the garden, but in cold soils it is better to lift the tubers in autumn, store them in sand in a cool place, and plant out in spring. Increased by division. Corydalis. The species bulbosa and tuberosa are interesting plants for naturalising in woodland gardens or rough borders. See table of Hardy Tuberous-rooted Plants (p. 43). Cyclamen. We have but little to add about these charming winter and spring flowers to what has been supplied in the tabular list. Suffice it to say, these dainty plants appear most at home when naturalised on grassy slopes or in turf under the shade of deciduous trees. They may, however, be grown successfully on a rockery facing north or north-west, where there is little risk of their being disturbed or overgrown by other plants. Increased by seeds sown in pans of peat and leaf-mould in a cold frame. Dahlia. The dahlia is, of course, a tuberous-rooted plant, and strictly entitled to come within the scope of this work. As, however, its many types require more cultural details than we can afford space for, we shall refrain from saying more here than that it is, as well known, one of the THE STATELY EREMURUS. Eremurus robustus is one of the most stately and imposing of outdoor tuberous-rooted plants. When in flower the spikes grow 8 to 10ft. high, Flowers pink; summer. ERYTHRONIUM GRANDIFLOKUM GIGANTEUM. A beautiful variety of one of the finest of the American Dog's Tooth Violets. The flowers rich cream colour with orange base ; Spring, TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 39 showiest genera of tender plants for autumn-blooming and worthy of a place in every garden. For full cultural details the reader cannot do better than consult Mr. J. B. Wroe's excellent monograph on " Dahlias and their Culti- vation," issued by the publishers of this work. Dracunculus. ]). vulgare (the Dragon Plant) was formerly included in the genus Arum as Arum dracunculus. It is a curious plant, with mottled stems, green leaves, and green and violet spathes or flowers. Requires similar culture to the Arum. Eranthis. This is the generic name of the Winter Aconite, a dwarf tuberous plant which flowers early in the year, and is well suited for naturalising in woodlands, in turf under trees, or grouping in the mixed border. It is perhaps best grown in turf, as there is less likelihood of the small tubers being disturbed than when grown in a border. Increased by offsets. Eremurus. A genus of very handsome tuberous- rooted flowering perennials, belonging to the Lily order (Liliaceae). Many of them are of stately and noble growth, but they are unfortunately not hardy enough to succeed really well outdoors except in a few favoured districts. Those who live in mild, sheltered districts may grow these plants in positions sheltered from north and east winds. To ensure success it is advisable to prepare a special well- drained bed, fully three feet deep, and composed of good sandy loam, decayed cow manure, and leaf -mould. In this plant the roots three to four feet apart in autumn, keeping the crown just out of the soil. In winter mulch around each plant with decayed tree leaves, and when growth begins actively in spring top-dress with rotten manure and leaf-mould. In the event of frosty weather occurring after growth has begun protect the young shoots with dry bracken or litter. The plants often fail to flower 40 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. till three or more years after planting. Eremuri may be raised from seed sown in sandy loam and leaf-mould in gentle heat in spring, the seedlings being carefully trans- planted into small pots, and finally placed in cold frames for a couple of years before finally planting out. Natives of Turkestan, Persia, and the Himalayas. Geranium. G. tuberosum is an interesting tuberous- rooted Crane's-bill, growing about a foot high and having curiously knotted and forked stems. Does best on a sunny rockery, and in cold districts requires a little protection in the shape of a covering of bracken or dry litter in winter. A well-drained soil is essential. Increased by division. Helicodiceros. A curious Arum-like plant, formerly known as Arum crinitum, or H. crinitus. It has narrow lobed leaves, purple-spotted stems, and purplish spathes which emit a carrion-like odour when fully grown. Kequires similar culture to the Arum. Mirabilis (Marvel of Peru). Tender tuberous-rooted plants long grown in gardens during the summer. M. Japala grows three feet or so high, and bears red, lilac, yellow, or white fragrant flowers in summer. Other species are M. longiflora, bearing white, pink, or violet fragrant blossoms in August; and M. multiflora, purple flowers. The first-named is the most generally grown. The tubers require to be lifted in autumn, stored like dahlias, and started in heat in March, or planted out direct into the soil in May. Plants may be reared from seed sown in heat in February, to plant out in May for flowering the same year. Orchids. Several genera and species of orchids have tuberous roots, and, being very interesting hardy plants, must not be omitted from this volume. We refer to Calapogon pulchellus; Habenarias (Butterfly Orchises); TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 41 Orchis folicsa (Madeira Orchis); 0. latifolia (Marsh Orchis); 0. spectabilis (North American Orchis); laxifi- flora (Guernsey Orchis) ; and purpurea (Lady Orchis) ; also to Ophrys apifera (Bee Orchis); O. aranifera (Spider Orchis) ; O. muscifera (Fly Orchis) ; and O. tenthredinifera (Sawfly Orchis). A spare corner should certainly be found for these quaint plants. Grow the Calapogon in equal parts of peat and leaf-mould in a special bed in partial shade ; Habenaria bifolia on a raised border in leaf-mould and loam under the shade of trees; Habenaria blephari- glossis, ciliaris, and fimbriata in a bed of moist peat and leaf -mould in a shady spot; the orchises in a bed of two parts loam and one part of equal proportions of leaf- mould and decayed manure, in a sunny spot; and the Ophrys in a special bed composed of at least one foot of a compost of two parts of turfy loam, and one part of equal proportions of chalk or broken limestone and leaf- mould. They may also be grown on a turfy limestone or chalk bank. Ranunculus. The various kinds grown in gardens under the names of Turban, Scotch, Persian, Dutch, Italian, and French Ranunculi, and varieties of Ranun- culus asiaticus, are asiatic species. They have claw-like tubers, and bear double or semi-double flowers in early summer. The Turban strain have large, double yellow, crimson, orange, rose, scarlet, or white self-coloured flowers. The French and Italian forms have larger flowers and a more robust constitution. The Persian strain are compact growing, and bear double flowers of striking colours. The Dutch and Scotch strain are dwarf forms of the latter, with edged or spotted flowers. The Turban type is the hardiest of the various strains. Ranunculi require a deep, rich, moderately moist soil, and a shady position. Before planting add plenty of decayed cow manure and leaf-mould to the soil. Plant the Turban strain in October or February ; the Persian one in February 42 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. or March. Draw drills two inches deep and six inches apart, and plant the tubers claw-side downwards. In dry weather give copious supplies of water, with an occasional dose of weak liquid manure. On very light soils add a mulch of rotten manure to conserve the moisture and keep the roots cool. When the leaves turn yellow lift the tubers, dry, and store them away till planting time. Increased by seeds and offsets. Salvia. Salvia patens, a blue-flowered Mexican species, has tuberous roots, and requires to be treated similarly to the Marvel of Peru. Increased by cuttings inserted in a warm greenhouse in early spring; also by seeds sown in heat in March. Schizostylis coccinea. A showy crimson- flowered gladiolus-like plant, the spikes of which are most valuable for cutting in late autumn. It should be grown at the foot of a sunny wall or fence in moist loamy soil. Give an ample supply of water in summer, with occa- sional applications of liquid manure. Tropaeolum. Three species of this genus have tuberous roots, and are more or less hardy. T. penta- phyllum grows six to ten feet high, and is well suited for rambling over a tree stump or trellis ; and T. polyphyllurn and T. tuberosum are also suitable for tree stumps or trailing over sunny banks. 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(j : 1 I :S I :.W> - fcfi c I "I I i fl 1 ^ .3- * __^___ . -^1,^4 3^ O 1 |l O O 1 o 8 i S " ** o e r$ M 02 O T, g | 'o 02 t | 1 (5 I M 00 3 CO a o >rt .s.s.s .a.a.g.a.a.s.go- a .a .g.gs*ft- "*^ !> CO O O ^H CO OO ^O CO ^O "^ GO ^-1 CO r^ CO O i * li . j! I 4a Colour. 73 ' ^ _o 3 ; r ^^ ! 3lS3SxaS'K r S^s-1^3 'C ^ a aurea 1 o> ipa kaufmannian , kolpakowsky 1 .ia allll IM a .? s-s -1 11 III ! s In Illfslill 1 IHllil d H Part 1 1. -BULBS IN ROOMS, Etc. CHAPTER I. CULTURE IN WATER. ONE of the most simple and interesting ways in which to grow many kinds of bulbous-rooted plants is in water. Bulbs lend themselves admirably to this system of culture. Unlike fibrous-rooted plants, they store up in the scales of the bulbs during the preceding year the principal food for forming and developing the flowering spikes the next year, and only need the agency of water to assist them to attain full perfection of growth. But bulbs grown in water cannot, like those grown in soil, collect a fresh store of food to replace that exhausted by the development of leaves and flowers, and so provide the material that will yield similarly fine foliage and flowers the next year. In a word, a bulb grown in water exhausts itself the first year, and is practically useless for similar culture the second year. But, if we plant the bulbs out in the garden they eventually garner a fresh store of material that will the next year produce foliage and flowers of a less robust type. Hence, it is necessary, if we want to grow bulbs successfully in water, to procure fresh ones every year, bulbs replete with a full reserve of food equal, with the addition of water only, to yielding fine foliage and 78 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, handsome flowers. Everyone, therefore, who wishes to start growing bulbs in water must buy newly-imported ones to ensure success in this novel method of flower culture. Vessels for Water Culture. Special glasses for the purpose are sold by all dealers in glass and by florists. There are tall and short kinds made of plain crystal glass, or of shades of blue, purple, and amber, either plain or decorated. Personally, we prefer the plain crystal type, as there is then no colour to conflict with that of the flower. These glasses have a cup or depression at the top to receive the bulb. Smaller sizes are also to be obtained for crocus bulbs. There are also many kinds of small opaque ornamental vases suitable for growing single bulbs of narcissi, crocuses, and squills. The advantage of 'dear glasses is, you can easily perceive the method of root formation, but, where this is of little interest, opaque vessels will do just as well. Water. Rain water is preferable to ordinary spring water, because it contains more soluble plant food, and is in every way better suited to the requirements of the growth of plants. Owing to its organic contents, it is, however, apt to exhale an unpleasant smell, and, to guard against this, it is usual to put a few lumps of charcoal in- side each glass. Charcoal keeps the water sweet, absorbs some of the organic matter, and when the roots come in contact therewith they are able to absorb it, and benefit considerably thereby. Ordinary spring water may, of course, be used, but it will not give such good results as rain water. Bulbs for Water Culture Hyacinths, tulips, nar- cissi, snowdrops, scillas, and crocuses may be grown in water in the glasses or vases mentioned. In all cases those with single flowers usually do the best, and it is most im- CULTURE IN WATER. 79 perative that bulbs of the finest quality only should be selected for the purpose. Bulb dealers usually make a point of selling bulbs specially selected for the purpose. Snowdrops, scillas, and crocuses do not, of course, require large vessels, only those with a neck or cup just large enough to hold a single bulb. See selections on p. 170. Planting the BulbsAll the bulbs just mentioned should be procured in September or October. Fill each vessel with water so that, when the bulb is placed in position, the water will nearly, but not quite, touch its base, adding also the charcoal previously referred to. When the bulbs are placed in position put the glasses in a cool, dry, and perfectly dark cupboard, and let them remain there until roots have formed a couple of inches or so long. Bring them to a cool room, and stand them in subdued light to allow the blanched growths to assume a green tinge, when remove to a light, sunny window. Carefully watch the water, the supply of which will be gradually lessened by absorption into the plant. Add a fresh supply as needed to the base of the bulbs. Tall flowers, like those of the hyacinth and narcissus, will need support when they get a few inches long. Seedsmen sell properly- made wire supports for bulbs grown in water; but, failing these, a piece of stout wire forced into the bulb and then secured by a strand of bast or yarn will answer the purpose well. After flowering, the bulbs are only of service for planting out in the garden. Special Hints. On no account bring the bulbs out of the dark cupboard until they have made roots two inches long. If you do the flower spikes will be stunted in growth. If a hyacinth spike be slow in ascending, roll a piece of paper round it, not tightly, but so that it does not touch the spike. This will cause the spike to push up- wards, and then the paper can be removed. Remove any offsets that form on the sides of the bulbs. 80 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, Bulbs In Bowls Bulbs may also be grown in shallow bowls containing water and a few pebbles. The Chinese Sacred Lily (Narcissus tazetta) is usually grown thus. A layer of pebbles should be placed on the bottom of the bowl, and enough rain water added to nearly but not quite cover them. Several bulbs have then to be placed on the pebbles, and the bowls put in a dark position until roots form; then be brought to the light, and treated as advised for those in glasses. The roots will ramify among the pebbles, and in that way make the bulbs fairly firm. The water supply should be constantly main- tained to the height of the pebbles. Any of the narcissi or hyacinths may be grown in the above manner. CHAPTER II. CULTURE IN MOSS FIBRE. A NOVEL and popular way of growing bulbs for home decora- tion is the now fashionable one of cultivating thorn in specially-prepared moss fibre, in fancy bowls. The method is so simple and easy to carry out that the merest novice cannot fail to succeed in growing bulbs to perfec- tion if the following details are carefully observed. BowJs or Vases Special kinds for the purpose can be purchased at china or earthenware dealers, at prices varying from a shilling to five or eight shillings each. Those made from the famous " Doulton " ware are very pretty, and suitable for growing from one to three or more bulbs in each. Those who prefer a more decorative type will find an ample choice in the fancy Japanese style. CULTURE IN MOSS FIBRE, 81 They are made in the following sizes: 2|in., 4in., 5 Jin., 7in., Sin., 9in., lOin., and 12in. The first size is suit- able for small bulbs like crocuses, snowdrops, squills, and chionodoxas; the next one (4in. or 5in.) for one bulb of hyacinth or three of narcissi or tulips ; and the others for growing a number of bulbs. The Compost. This should consist of two parts of moss-fibre and one part each of finely-ground sea-shell and charcoal. But those who do not want to be bothered with the trouble of buying the ingredients separately, and mixing them, may purchase from any of the bulb dealers a specially-prepared mixture of the above materials with the addition of artificial manures for about 3s. 6d. per bushel. Especial care should be taken in seeing that the com- post is in a thoroughly moist condition before it is placed in the bowls. If this precaution be not taken it will be practically impossible to add the requisite moisture after- wards, as, if the material once gets dry, it will not readily absorb water. It is advisable, therefore, to spread the compost out thinly ; then sprinkle it with water, and mix together. The proper condition of moisture can be ascertained by squeezing the compost in the hand. If, as a result, the moisture oozes out slightly through the fingers, then it is in a suitable state to use, not other- wise. A bushel of compost will suffice for about twenty- four bowls of six-inch diameter. Some lumps of charcoal are also essential to serve as drainage, and a half- inch layer of this should be put in each bowl prior io adding the compost. General Treatment. Great care must be taken not to over-water the fibre so as to make the latter sour. Give just enough to make it fairly moist. If by any chance too much water has been applied, tilt the bowl on one side to allow superfluous moisture to drain away. Nor should cold water be given, as this would chill the roots and cause the flowers to develop improperly. Stand BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, near to a light window, and turn the bowl round a little every day, so that all sides of the plant get sun and light in due course. After flowering, the bulbs should be care- fully planted out in a spare corner in the garden, where in future years they may yield flowers for cutting. For cul- ture in bowls fresh bulbs should be procured annually, and these ought also to be of the finest quality. See also the remarks regarding supporting the flower spikes on p. 87. Hyacinths in Moss. Hyacinths may also be grown in moss, as follows: Procure ordinary moss from a damp hedge, bank, or wood; tie this into a ball about eight inches or so in diameter, then arrange hyacinth bulbs all round, adding moss to fill the space between the bulbs, and interlacing this with string as the work proceeds to keep the bulbs in position. When finished, run a stout piece of wire through the centre, and form a loop at one end, so that the ball can be hung up in a cool, dark cellar. Be- fore hanging up the ball dip it in water. As soon as growth has begun, bring the ball to a light window, and dip in water two or three times a week. In due course the bulbs will send forth spikes radiating in every direc- tion, and you will have, a distinct floral novelty. Cro- cuses and tulips could be grown in a similar way, only the ball should be smaller in size. Kinds to Grow. It is possible to grow with great success a, number of kinds. Hyacinths do extremely well in moss-fibre. White Eoman hyacinths, for example, may be had in flower at Christmas time and the New Year by planting them in August. Snowdrops and scillas, also chionodoxas planted at the same time will flower early in January. The lange-flowered Dutch hyacinths, likewise the dainty little miniature kinds, are incomparably pretty when in flower. We particularly recommend the latter, which only grow about six inches high, especially the varieties CULTURE IN MOSS FIBRE. 83 Beaut}', Canary Bird, Fire King, Loveliness, Blanche, and Winter Cheer. These come into flower about Feb- ruary. Narcissi, including daffodils, also thrive well in moss- fibre. The Paper White Narcissus, if planted in August, will flower at Christmas; Polyanthus narcissi, as Grand Monarque and Gloriosa; the dainty single and double fra- grant jonquils; the pretty, small-flowered cyclamineas, and Triandrus albus ; such trumpet varieties as Empress, Emperor, Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Madame de Graaff, and Johnstoni, Queen of Spain; and Barri conspicuus, As- pasia, Elvira, Sir Watkin, Mrs. Langtry, Evangeline, and Princess Mary among other types. Then, of tulips, the Darwin section succeeds admirably in moss-fibre. Their ample foliage and their stately blooms of many artistic tints show to great advantage in bowls. Clara Butt, Douden, Mrs. Farncombe Sanders, Pride of Haarlem, W^hite Queen, and Gipsy Queen are exceedingly pretty sorts. Single tulips of the Due Van Thol flower early; White Swan, Pink Beauty, Canary Bird, and Grace Darling are other good singles. Of doubles, El Toreador, Murillo, Princess Beatrice, Duke of York, and Blue Flag are attractive sorts. Indeed, any of the varieties described in the chapter of selections further on are adapted for culture in bowls. Crocuses are particularly well suited for bowl culture. King of the Whites, David Kizzio, King of the Blues, and Cloth of Gold are very showy sorts for growing either in mixture or separately. Other interesting bulbs that may be grown in this fashion are the Chequered Fritillary (Fritillaria melea- gris), a kind with narrow, graceful foliage and quaintly marked flowers; Iris reticulata Krelaagei, a dainty bulb for flowering in January or February ; Chionodoxa lucilise and sardensis, -blue, blooming early in the year; Muscari botryoides, blue, and its variety alba, white, also flowering early; and Scilla sibirica, blue. There is no doubt that 84 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. many other kinds of spring-flowering bulbs might be suc- cessfully grown thus if they were tried. Planting;, Having placed half an inch of charcoal in each bowl, proceed with the planting as follows: For large bulbs like those of hyacinths, narcissi, and tulips, put about an inch of compost over the charcoal and press it down firmly. On this arrange the bulbs about half an inch apart, then fill in the intervening spaces with com- post, pressing it firmly down, afterwards covering the bulbs with compost nearly to their tips. For smaller bulbs add sufficient compost over the charcoal so that when the -bulbs are placed thereon their tips reach to within half an inch of the rim of the bowls. Place them a quarter of an inch apart, fill in with compost to within half an inch of the top of the bowls, and press it down evenly and firmly. In the case of snowdrops, scillas, and chionodoxas, these may be grown in mixture or separately, as all three flower about the same time. The next step is to place the bowls in a cool, dark cellar, or some other equally cool, dark spot, and let them remain there for about eight weeks, by which time they will have rooted sufficiently to be safely brought into the light. Of course, some, as the Roman hyacinths, snowdrops, and the irises, may have become well rooted before then, and have commenced to make new growth freely. In this event, bring the bowls to the light at once. For the first few days it is not wise to expose the bulbs fully to the light, but to place them in semi-light until the growth assumes a greenish tinge. As a rule no water is required until the bulbs are brought into the room, but, in the event of the fibre becoming dryish, moisten it moderately with chilled rain water. Ordinary water may 'be used failing a supply of the latter. On no account place the 'bowls in dry, warm cupboards, as the dry air would absorb the moisture from the fibre, and the warmth stimulate the bulbs to put forth leaves and flowers before new roots had formed, and the result would be dis- CULTURE IN WINDOW BOXES. 85 astrous. It is very essential that coolness and darkness should be the prevailing conditions until root action has actively commenced. Moreover, it is important not to have to supply water to the fibre until plenty of roots have formed to imbibe it, otherwise the stagnant moisture will render the compost sour, and prevent healthy root forma- tion. If the foregoing instructions are implicitly followed the bulbs will not only form an abundance of roots, but also yield good sturdy stems, and fine flowers. Very warm rooms are not conducive to successful growth; the flowers are apt to wither or to develop imperfectly ; there- fore grow them as far as possible in cool rooms. CHAPTER III. CULTURE IN WINDOW BOXES. BULBS are excellent subjects to grow in boxes on the window ledge, on roof gardens, and on balconies. It is interesting to watch the development of their growth during the early period of the year, and very pleasant to behold their bright blossoms in the early days of spring. To the town gardener, especially, bulb culture should particularly appeal as a means of beautifying the dull surroundings of his home and yielding congenial occupa- tion in attending to the simple cultural requirements of the plants. Bulbs to Grow. Any of the numerous varieties and kinds of hyacinths, narcissi, crocuses, snowdrops, scillas, muscaris, chionodoxas, and tulips are adapted for box culture. We have also seen Spanish irises and gladioli do very well indeed in window-boxes; in fact, there is no reason why the owner of & roof garden should not grow 86 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. any of the hardy bulbs described for a cold house with equal success in window boxes, or on roofs or balconies. How to Grow Them. The boxes should be such as are used for ordinary summer plants. The soil, indeed, that has been used for summer plants may be used for bulbs. It will only be necessary to fork it up, add a handful of bone-meal and two or three handfuls of decayed manure or horse droppings broken up fine, mixing the whole thoroughly. In September or October the bulbs may then be planted. For window-boxes an edging of crocuses may be planted near the outer side; then a row of tulips, with one of hyacinths behind. Or, scillas or chionodoxas and snowdrops may be planted alternately as an edging ; next these a row of muscaris, and a row of narcissi at the back. Another pretty way is to plant hyacinths or tulips only in each box, and to place 'between these polyanthuses, double daisies, forget-me-nots, or wallflowers. In this case the bulbs will flower first, and the other plants follow on, providing a display of floral beauty from March to June. If summer-flowering bulbs are grown, such as English or Spanish irises or gladioli, similar spring-flowering plants might be grown between the bulbs. After the former have flowered they could be replaced by seedling nasturtiums or petunias, to flower in company with the bulbs and afterwards. The advantage of growing other plants between the bulbs is the greater variety and longer duration of floral beauty, and the pretty effect of an attractive carpeting for the soil of the boxes. On balconies or roof gardens larger boxes may be used than for window-sills. They may be of any length or width to suit the situation, but the average depth should be nine inches. Holes should be bored freely in the bottoms, and the ends stood on bricks or narrow strips of wood to permit water to drain away and air to have access to the bottom of the boxes. Here, again, the boxes may be edged with scillas, crocuses, snowdrops, chionodoxas, or muscaris, followed behind with rows of CULTURE IN WINDOW BOXES, 87 tulips, hyacinths, or narcissi. Between the larger bulbs any of the plants previously described may be planted, to flower after the bulb; and, in the case of irises or gladioli, violas or pansies may be used as carpeting plants. For all the foregoing bulbs a compost of two parts loamy soil and one of equal proportions of decayed manure, leaf-mould, and coarse silver sand, may be used. Small bulbs like crocuses, etc., should be planted an inch deep and one to two inches apart; and larger ones, like hyacinths two inches deep and three inches apart. General Treatment After planting, cover the surface of the soil with about an inch of cocoanut-fibre refuse. Give no water till growth begins, and then only if the surface soil appears dry. When in full growth more water will be needed. As soon as the flower stems show clearly, the soil may be watered with a solution of guano or fertiliser, using an ounce to a gallon of water. Apply once a week till the flowers open, then cease. Tall spikes or stems should be supported with a neat stake, otherwise wind may cause them to snap of!. After flower- ing continue to give water till the foliage turns yellow; then the bulbs may be removed from the soil, laid out in a cool place to dry, and be stored away. As a rule, bulbs that have been grown in the limited area of a window-box do not collect sufficient new food to develop a strong embryo spike within the 'bulb before the foliage dies; hence, if used a second year, the spikes or flowers will naturally be smaller than those of the first year. It is, therefore, better to buy new bulbs every autumn, and to either plant the old ones out in the garden, or, failing a garden, to give them to some friend who has one, to plant in his borders. We may add, for the information of the novice, that it is not necessary to place the boxes in a dark place, or to cover them, except as advised. Being in the open air, they will grow best under the natural conditions of light and air. Part III.-BULBS UNDER GLASS. CHAPTEB I. HOTHOUSE. IN this chapter we include those bulbs and tubers which require a fairly warm temperature all the year round to grow them to perfection. The structure in which they should be grown is commonly known as a hothouse, or stove, with a day temperature of 65 to 70 deg. in winter, 70 to 75 deg. in spring, 75 to 80 deg. in summer, and 70 to 75 deg. in autumn; also a night temperature of 60 to 65 deg. in winter, 65 to 70 deg. in spring, 70 to 75 deg. in summer, and 65 to 75 deg. in autumn. While the fore- going are the average temperatures for such a structure, it is not always essential that they should be adhered to strictly, since some plants may do well in a slightly lower temperature, and where such is the case the fact will be duly mentioned in connection with each genus of plants. It is essential, moreover, to start some bulbs and tubers in the hothouse, removing them to a cooler temperature later on, and this fact also will be duly noted as we proceed. So much by way of preface, and now we will deal with each genus separately. Achimenes. These are South American tuberous- rooted plants, flowering chiefly in summer, growing one HOTHOUSE. 89 to two feet high, and Succeeding in pots or hanging baskets. They are exceedingly showy plants, and by no means difficult to grow by those who can command the necessary heat. They make their growth during spring and summer, gradually lose their foliage in autumn, and remain dormant during the winter. The small scaly tubers require to be planted an inch apart and half an inch deep in shallow boxes or pans rilled with a compost of equal parts of leaf -mould and loam, with a fair amount of sand. Do this in February or March in a temperature of 65 to 70 deg. When the shoots are an inch or so high, transplant the tubers two to three inches apart in Gin. or Sin. pots, 12in. pans, or in hanging baskets, using a compost of two parts of good fibrous loam and one part of equal proportions of leaf-mould, well-rotted manure, and silver sand. If to be grown in baskets, line the interior with moss, place the young plants at intervals of two or three inches round the sides and through the moss, gradually fill up with compost, and plant others on the top. As soon as the shoots are four to six inches high nip off the points to cause side growths to form. Keep in the same temperature, water freely as growth proceeds, give weak liquid manure once or twice a week, and when the shoots are eight inches high, support them with stakes. As soon as the plants come in flower remove to a cooler house. After flowering, gradually withhold water, and when the foliage has faded, either store the pots on their sides in a warm house till spring, or remove the tubers and store them in silver sand in a similar place till repotting time. Easily increased by seeds sown in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. in spring, to flower the next season. The tubers multiply very rapidly. As regards species, the best are: Coccinea, scarlet; longiflora, violet; longiflora alba, white; longiflora major, violet; grandiflora, scarlet; and patens, violet. Showy varieties are: Admiration, purple; Alba maxima, white; Aurora, red ; Firefly, crimson ; Margarita, white ; Ambrose 90 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Verschaffelt, white; carminata, splendens, rose; Hender- son!, orange; Mauve Queen, mauve; Masterpiece, purple and white; and Bosy Queen, rose. Amaryllis See Hippeastrum. Caladium. Handsome ornamental-leaved tuberous- rooted plants, natives of tropical America, requiring a high temperature and a moist atmosphere to grow them really well. Few plants possess such richly-coloured leaves as the Caladium. They require great care and skill to produce the foliage to the highest perfection. The plants make their growth in spring and summer, gradually lose their foliage in autumn, and go to complete rest in winter. Their culture should commence in January or early in February. The tubers should then be taken out of the old soil and repotted in pots just large enough to accommodate them. The compost throughout should consist of two parts loam and one part each of peat, leaf-mould, and coarse silver sand. After potting plunge the pots to their rims in cocoanut-fibre refuse over a hotbed, or in a propagating frame heated to a temperature of 75 to 80 deg. Give no water, but syringe the pots two or three times daily. As soon as growth begins, apply water to the soil, increasing the supply as growth proceeds. When the small pots are filled with roots transfer the plants, according to size of tuber and habit of growth, to 6in. or Sin. pots, or even a larger size if specially big specimens are desired. Give plenty of water, maintain a moist atmosphere and a uniform temperature of 75 to 85 deg., shade from sun, and give weak liquid manure occasionally to fully-grown plants. If any flower stems form remove them. The three main points to consider are: plenty of heat, and moisture, and shade from sun. In autumn, when the leaves begin to fade, gradually withhold water, keeping the soil quite dry after the foliage is dead. From then to spring lay the pots on their sides under the staging in the hothouse. HOTHOUSE. 91 92 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Propagation is effected by division of the tubers into as many parts as are furnished with eyes or shoots. Do tins when starting the tubers. The best species are: Bicolor, green and red foliage; bicolor Chantinii, green, crimson, and white leaves; Mar- moratum, green and white; and Humboldtii (Syn. argyrites), green and white, dwarf, very pretty. Varieties are numerous, but the following are perhaps the best: Carmen, dark carmine, with red veins; Mrs. McLeod, vermilion-scarlet; Louis d'Or, white ground, carmine veins, yellow edges; Duchess of Fife, carmine, rose, green, and white ; Princess Beatrice, violet, green, and blue ; Rose Laing, crimson and white; Illustrious, crimson and white; Baron Adolphe de Rothschild, carmine, red, and green; Lady Dorrington, red, pink, grey, and white; Silver Cloud, green, carmine, and white; Lord Penrhyn, ee.rmine, crimson, green, and white; and Golden Queen, golden yellow. Colocasia. C. antiquorum e&culentum, the West Indian Kale or Taro Boot, is a tropical ornamental-leaved plant with tuberous roots. It has handsome shield or heart-shaped green leaves, and is a striking subject to grow in a hothouse. Its culture is practically the same as just advised for Caladiums, which see. Eucharis. The Eucharis Lily is one of the most chaste and valuable of hothouse bulbs. Its pure white blossoms are much appreciated in autumn and winter for table decoration, and for making wreaths. The Eucharis Lily requires considerable skill to grow and flower it satisfactorily, but, once the grower becomes thoroughly acquainted with its needs, he will experience little difficulty in securing a succession of flowers throughout the year. Coming from South America, this lily naturally requires a high temperature to grow it successfully. HOTHOUSE, 93 The secret of flowering the Eucharis Lily successfully is to give it generous culture in a high temperature, and then rest the bulbs for a couple of months in a lower tempera- ture. The ideal compost consists of two parts of fibrous loam, one part of peat, and one of equal proportions of well-rotted manure and silver sand. Repotting may be clone in spring, or directly after flowering. It is usual to grow half a dozen good-sized bulbs in an Sin. or a lOin. pot. Put an inch of crocks in each, then fill the pot two-thirds with compost pressed down firmly, arrange the bulbs on this, and add enough soil to just cover the bulbs, but leaving the apex free. Very firm potting is essential. After potting plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed of leaves or fibre, in a temperature of 65 deg. by night and 75 deg. by day. Water very sparingly till growth becomes active ; then do so freely. When in full growth lift out of the plunging bed and place close to the glass, but shade from bright sunshine. Syringe the foliage twice a day, and see the roots have plenty of water. As soon as the ample foliage is observed to be fully developed, remove the plants to a temperature of 55 deg. by night and 65 deg. by day; gradually withhold water till the leaves begin to droop ; then give a moderate amount of water, and withhold again till the leaves flag. Proceed with this code of treatment for two months ; then remove the plants to a temperature of 65 deg. by night and 75 deg. by day, and commence to water thoroughly and syringe the foliage daily. In a few weeks flower stems will begin to push up, and then apply liquid manure once or twice a week. After flowering, repot if large specimens are desired ; if not, grow on in the same pots for a couple of years or so. In any case, encourage the plants to grow freely, rest them in due course, and start to grow again and flower as previously advised. By having- three or four sets of plants, and treating them alternately as above advised, it will be possible to have flowers all the year round. The Eucharis is an evergreen -plant, so never 94 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, loses its leaves entirely except when in bad health. It is specially liable to be infested with mealy bug, red spider, and thrips, the remedies for which will be found else- where. A mite also infests the roots. Increased by offsets at potting time. The species and hybrids are as follows: Candida, grandi- flora (Syn. amazonica), Mastersii, Sanderi, Stevensii, Lowi, and Moorei. The two best are Candida and grandi- flora. All are white-flowered, and grow about one to two feet high. Eurycles. A genus of white-flowered bulbous plants, natives of Queensland, and requiring hothouse culture. They are somewhat similar to the Pancratiums, and flower in spring. The bulbs require to be grown singly in 6, 8, or lOin. pots, according to size, in a compost of three parts loam, one part leaf-mould, and plenty of coarse sand. Pot firmly. February is the best time to repot. After potting plunge the pots as advised for Eucharis, and keep the roots well supplied with moisture. In autumn gradually with- hold water, and keep nearly dry all the winter. The temperature during the growing season should be 65 to 75 deg., and 55 deg. in autumn and winter. Increased by offsets. The only species are Cunningharni and sylvestris, both white-flowered and growing one foot high. Gesnera. The Gesneras are tuberous-rooted plants, natives of South America, growing about a foot high, and bearing tubular-shaped, brilliantly-coloured flowers at various seasons of the year. Many of the kinds, too, have attractively-coloured velvety foliage. They will all succeed in an ordinary stove temperature. By potting at different periods of the year a long succession of flowers may be obtained. Thus, tubers potted and started to grow in March would flower in June ; HOTHOUSE. 95 those started in May would blossom in September; and those, again, potted in June would flower during the winter. At whichever period the potting is done, a com- post of two parts fibrous peat, one part loam, one part leaf-mould, one part decayed manure, and a liberal amount of silver sand should be used. The tubers may be potted singly in oin. pots, or three in a Gin. pot. Bury the tubers about a quarter-inch deep. Some growers place the tubers an inch or so apart in shallow boxes to start them to grow; then transfer to the pots. Place the pots in a temperature of 65 deg. , and water very cautiously till growth becomes active; then give a free supply. To ensure a dwarf habit grow the plants not too far from the glass. When the flowers begin to appear apply weak liquid manure occasionally. Shade from bright sunshine. After flowering gradually withhold water, and when the foliage withers keep quite dry till repotting time arrives. Store the pots on the sides under the staging in the stove. Propagation is effected by seeds or cuttings in spring; also by division of the tubers at potting time. The leading species and varieties are: Cardinalis, crimson, scarlet, and white (October) ; Donklarii, red and yellow (July); Douglasii, red and yellow (September); exoniensis, scarlet, yellow, and orange ; Leopoldii, scarlet (July); Lindleyii, scarlet and yellow (July); maculata, purple, spotted (October) ; Marchii, scarlet (July) ; naege- loides, pink and red (July) ; refulgens, violet, white, and buff (summer) ; and Van Houttei, white, carmine, and rose (September). Gloriosa. Tuberous-rooted climbers, bearing very quaint and curiously-shaped flowers. Natives of Tropi-cal Asia and Africa, and very interesting plants to grow up the rafters of a plant stove. Commence their culture in January or February by carefully removing the tubers from the soil and planting these singly in 6in., or several in a lOin., pot, using a 96 BULBS AND THEIR * CULTIVATION. compost of equal parts peat, loam, leaf-mould, decayed manure, and silver sand, and burying the tubers two inches deep. Place the pots in a temperature of 70 to 75 deg., and give no water till the shoots appear, then gradu- ally increase the supply. Train the shoots to stakes up to the rafters; then secure them, as they grow, to wires. In summer the quaint flowers will then appear, and have a pretty effect hanging on long stalks from the shoots. In autumn give less water as the foliage and shoots decay, and, finally, keep dry till January or February. The shoots may, if desired, be trained round stakes in the pots, but a prettier effect is obtained when grown up the roof. Eeadily increased by seeds sown in a temperature of 75 deg. in spring; or division of the tubers in February. The species are: Simplex, orange, yellow; simplex Plantii, yellow and red; simplex grandiflora, orange and yellow, large; superba, orange-red. The last-named is the most popular species. All grow four to eight feet high, and flower in summer. Gloxinia. The correct generic name of this genus is Sinningia, but, as the old name is more familiar, we retain it. The parent of the present race of Gloxinias (Sin- ningia or Gloxinia speciosa) originally came from Brazil in the year 1815. Many people manage to grow gloxi- nias in the cool greenhouse, but they never thrive or flower so well as when grown in the plant stove, or in the warm greenhouse. Anyway, they are best grown there until they begin to flower, when they may be removed to a cooler temperature. The flowers are large, tubular, self-coloured, or prettily spotted. All the forms are exceedingly attractive, and, when the plants are well furnished with their thick, fleshy foliage as a base for the handsome flowers, there are few plants to equal them in beauty. Gloxinias are easily reared from seeds. Fill a pan or shallow box with sandy peat and leaf -mould, press the sur- face down evenly with a piece of flat board, dust it over A GOOD TYPE GLOXINIA. Few greenhouse plants can surpass the Gloxinia in the beauty of its foliage and the richness of the colour of its handsome tubular self-coloured or spotted flowers. A good strain, well grown, makes a fine display of colour in the greenhouse in summer. CEINUM POWELLI ALBUM. An African bulbous plant bearing white flowers in summer. Adapted for cool greenhouse culture. HOTHOUSE, 97 with silver sand, hold the box in tepid water, so that the moisture rises to the surface to thoroughly moisten it, sow the seeds, do not cover with soil, but place a pane of glass on top, and cover this with paper to exclude light. Stand the box in a temperature of 65 to 70 deg., and when the seeds sprout remove the paper except when the sun is shining. As soon as the first two or three leaves have formed, carefully transplant the seedlings an inch apart in well-drained pots, boxes, or pans, and a little later transfer singly to three-inch pots, then to 5in. or Gin. pots, in which size the plants may flower. The compost should consist of equal parts of peat, loam, leaf-mould, decayed manure, and coarse silver sand. Dur- ing the growing season keep the plants shaded from sun, not too far from the glass, and well watered at the roots. When the first flower-buds form, -apply weak liquid manure once or twice weekly. When in full flower the plants may be removed to a conservatory until their blooms fade; then they should be returned to the plant stove, placed on a shelf, and have water gradually with- held. As soon as the foliage is dead, remove the tubers from the pots, and store them in silver sand in boxes in the stDve till spring. The tubers should then be partly embedded in leaf-mould or cocoanut-fibre refuse in shal- low boxes, and kept moist till new shoots, two inches long, have formed, when plant singly in 4Jin. or 6in. pots, and later transfer to Sin. pots if large plants are desired. We only advise the tubers of named sorts, or specially good, promising seedlings, to be saved and repotted, as much nicer specimens may be obtained from a good strain of seed. Seedlings well grown flower within six or eight months of sowing the seed. During the season of growth maintain a uniform temperature of 65 to 75 deg. and a moist atmosphere. When in flower a drier atmosphere is preferable. Gloxinias may be increased by leaf-cuttings and by division of the tubers. For named varieties and strains of seed see trade lists. 98 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. Griffinia. A genus of evergreen, bulbous plants, natives of South America, and flowering mainly in winter. The bulbs require to be grown in a compost of two parts fibrous loam and one part of equal proportions of peat, well-rotted manure, and coarse silver sand. March is the best time to repot, or, at any rate, directly after the plants have flowered. Good drainage must be provided, the compost made firm, and the pots must not be over large. When the plants are growing freely supply water plenti- fully, and maintain a temperature of 70 to 80 deg. Full growth will be attained by June, after which less water will be needed, but the soil must not be permitted to get dry. Later in the summer the flower stems will develop from the centre of the large bulbs, and the blossoms appear in autumn or winter. Large established bulbs will only need repotting every three or four years. The plants make their new growth between October and May. In- creased by seeds sown in a temperature of 75 deg. in spring, or offsets at potting time. The following are the chief species: Blumenavia, pink; hyacinthina, blue; and ornata, lilac. All grow about one foot high. Hippeastrum. The species and varieties of this genus are popularly known as Amaryllises, but their correct name is as above. The original species came from Tropical America. The species, however, are not so generally grown as the hybrids and varieties, which are really handsome in form and most attractive in the brilliancy of colour of their flowers. Hippeastrums are bulbous-rooted, and, with one or two exceptions, deciduous, losing their foliage after growth is completed. The best time to commence the culture of these bulbs is in January, when the latter are dormant. The bulbs should then be removed from their old soil and planted about half-way in well-drained pots in a compost of three- parts fibrous loam and one part of equal proportions of HOTHOUSE. 99 leaf-mould, well-decayed manure, and coarse silver sand. Pot firmly. The pots may be 6in. or Sin. sizes, according to the size of the bulbs. After potting, plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed of leaves or fibre refuse, in a temperature of 60 deg., and give no water till growth begins; then gradually increase the supply as the leaves develop. As soon as the flower spikes begin to push, gradu- ally draw the pots out of the plunging material, and then stand them on the staging, in a temperature of 65 deg., to flower. After flowering it is advisable to replunge the j pots, and to let them remain thus till growth is completed at the end of the summer, when gradually reduce the sup- ply of water, and keep quite dry when the foliage is dead. Store the pots on their sides in a temperature of 55 deg. till repotting time. Liquid manure should be given once a week to plants in full growth, Hippeastrums are easily reared from seeds sown in spring in a temperature of 65 or 75 deg., afterwards growing the seedlings continuously on in pots for three years, when they will flower. Increased also by offsets. The evergreen species require to be grown in similar soil, but not to be dried off in winter. The species worth growing are: Ackermanni, crimson (spring) ; aulicum, crimson and orange (winter) ; equestre, red and green (summer) ; Leopoldii, crimson and white (spring); pardinum, yellow and scarlet (spring); procerum, lilac (winter); psittacinum, orange and scarlet (summer); Reginae, red and white (spring); vittatum, crimson, red, and white (spring). The evergreen species is H. reticu- latum, rosy scarlet (spring). For names of the hybrids and varieties, which are very numerous indeed, see cata- logues issued by specialists. Kymenocallis. A genus of white fragrant- flowering bulbous plants, natives of Tropical America. They flower in autumn, winter, or spring. These bulbs require to be grown in well-drained pots in a compost of two parts sandy loam, and one part decayed n2 100 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. manure, with a liberal amount of coarse sand. Potting should be done in March, pressing the compost firmly in the pot. Afterwards grow the plants on in a temperature of 65 to 75 deg. in a sunny part of the stove, and give Y water freely as growth proceeds. In winter keep almost dry. During the summer months liquid manure may be given once a week. Once in three years is often enough to repot. The temperature during autumn and winter should be about 55 to 65 deg. Increased by offsets. The principal stove species are: Macrostephana, white (spring); ovata (Syn. Pancratium fragrans), white (autumn); and speciosa, white (winter). Nsegelfa. Plants of similar habit to Achimenes and Gesneras, and having scaly, tuberous roots. They require to be treated like the two latter genera, which see. The principal species worth growing are : Cinnabarina, scarlet (summer), 2ft. ; multiflora, white (August), 2ft. ; and zeb- rina, yellow and scarlet (autumn), 2ft. Pancratium. Bulbous-rooted plants with white, fragrant flowers, natives of the tropics, and requiring similar cultural conditions to the Hymenocallis, which see. The chief species are: Canariense, white (autumn), 18in. ; zeylanicum, white (summer), 1ft. Sandersonia. A genus of tuberous-rooted plants, one species of which only is grown, namely, aurantiaca, orange-yellow, flowering in summer. Plant the tubers singly two inches deep in a 6in., or three in an 8in. pot, in February, using a compost of equal parts peat, loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand. Grow in a temperature of 70 to 80 deg., and train the shoots to a low trellis. Supply freely with water till autumn, then gradually withhold it, keeping the roots dry during the winter. Increased by seeds and division. WARM GREENHOUSE, 101 CHAPTEK II. '/' ;. t < jr/;'i>::-- WARM GREENHOUSE. THE term "warm greenhouse " implies, for the purpose of growing the bulbs and tubers hereafter described, a structure heated artificially so as to maintain the following average temperatures : Winter, 60 deg. by day and 55 deg. by night ; spring, 65 deg. by day, and 60 deg. by night ; summer, 70 deg. by day, and 65 deg. by night; autumn, 60 deg. by night, and 65 deg. by day. Such a structure comes in intermediate between a hothouse or stove and a cool greenhouse. Our experience of the needs of the amateur gardener has taught us that there are many who have greenhouses sufficiently heated to command above temperatures, and, as there are several genera of bulbs and tubers that like more warmth than can be assured in the ordinary cool greenhouse, and yet would not do so well in the warmer temperature of the hothouse, we have decided to provide this separate section for them. Begonia. There are several distinct sections of begonias, but the only one that properly comes within the scope of this work is the Tuberous-rooted, a race of brilliant-coloured flowering plants which have become immensely popular as greenhouse and flower gardening decorative subjects during the past twenty years or so. For pot culture on the stage, or for growing in baskets sus- pended from the roof, there are few plants to equal the present race of single and double varieties in cultivation There are two ways of acquiring a stock of these plants, viz., by rearing them from seed or 'by purchasing tubers. The first method is the cheaper where a large assortment of colours is desired ; and the latter the better one where specially choice-named varieties are preferred. Seeds 102 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. require to bf. sown in January or February, to ensure strong plants fov .flowering the same year. To rear plants from seeds, a'ldo^ri 8in. pot must be half-filled with drainage, a layer of moss or partially-decayed leaves placed on this, then sufficient compost to fill the remaining space to within half an inch of the rim. Press the soil down firmly by means of the bottom of another pot, then sift some compost through a fine sieve, and put an eighth of an inch of it on the surface; press it level, water thoroughly with a fine-rose water-pot, and let it drain a few moments. Next get your seed, open the packet carefully, sow thinly, and then sprinkle a, little sand over it, and again water through a fine rose. This done, procure a pane of glass and place it over the pot, and then remove the latter to a temperature of 60 to 65 deg. Plunge the pot to its rim in cinder ashes or cocoanut-fibre refuse, and shade from sun. On no account allow the soil to become dry. Directly the slightest absence of moisture can be seen, hold the pot in a vessel of tepid water deep enough to allow the moisture to ascend through the drainage hole to the surface of the soil, but not so that the water rushes through to the top of the pot. When the seedlings have formed their third leaf, transplant them a quarter of an inch apart in a shallow box or pan, water carefully, and shade from sun. When the seedlings touch each other, again transplant them an inch apart in other boxes or pans. Leave them thus till their leaves meet, then pot off singly in 2in. pots. Grow them in this size till they have filled the pots with roots; then transfer to 5in. or 6in. pots. Their future treatment will be the same as for tubers. If you decide on growing plants from tubers, pro- cure these in February or March, embed them in a layer of cocoanut-fibre refuse in a shallow box, but do not cover -with fibre, and put in a temperature of 55 deg. Just keep the fibre moist, nothing more. When the tubers sprout freely, pot each one singly in a 2in. or 4in. pot, according to size. Do not bury the tuber too deeply, only WARM GREENHOUSE, 103 just cover its upper surface. Place the pots in a tem- perature of 55 to 60 deg., and water very carefully. When growth begins freely, the tubers will be ready for a shift into 5in., 6in., or Sin. pots. Pot moderately firm, and provide good drainage and clean pots. The compost used in all cases should consist of equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand, with a little charcoal added. Let the plants now have plenty of light, but shade from bright sunshine. Water freely, too, and give stimulants twice or three times a week. W T hen the plants are ready to bloom dispense with artificial heat, except on wet days, and ven- tilate freely. Remove seed-pods, unless seeds be required, and stake straggling shoots. Some of the more straggling varieties will do well in suspended baskets. When in flower the plants may be transferred to the cool green- house or conservatory, where they will make a brilliant display right up to autumn. In September, when the flowering period is drawing to a close, give less water, and as soon as the foliage dies discontinue it altogether. Early in November turn the tubers out of their soil, and store them in cocoanut-fibre refuse in a cool, dry, frost-proof place until February. Brunsvigia. South African bulbous-rooted plants of considerable beauty, and well worthy of culture in the warm greenhouse. They lose their leaves in winter. The bulbs succeed well in a compost of equal parts peat, loam, and coarse silver sand. They require fairly large pots, which must be well drained. New bulbs may be potted in autumn, and established ones in spring, just before new growth begins. Pot firmly. When new growth commences, supply water freely, and continue to do so up to autumn; then gradually decrease the amount, and, finally, withhold it during the winter. During the summer the plants must have full exposure to the sun to ripen the bulbs, and repotting will only be needful every three or four years. Increased by offsets. 104 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. The chief species are: Gigantea, red (July); and Jose- phine, scarlet (July), the latter being the better of the two. Crinum. A few species of this genus of bulbous-rooted plants require warm greenhouse culture. All are hand- some, both in foliage and flower, and merit culture where space can be found for them. They require rather large pots or tubs to grow them well. The compost should consist of two parts turfy loam, one part of peat, and a liberal amount of silver sand. Good drainage, too, must be provided, as the bulbs are best not repotted oftener than once in three or four years. In potting bury the bulb about half-way in the soil, and ram the latter down firmly. March is a good time to repot. During the spring and summer give plenty of water, and in the case of bulbs that have not been repotted for a year or so an occasional dose of liquid manure. In autumn gradually withhold water, and, finally, store the pots on their sides under the staging till spring. The plants like full exposure to sun in summer. Increased by seeds or offsets. The species above referred .to are: Amabile, purple (July) ; Macowanii, white and purple (autumn) ; and Moorei^ rose (summer). Gladiolus. A new form of Gladiolus has recently been introduced from the Rain Forest, Victoria Falls, on the river Zambesi, in tropical Africa, under the name of Gladi- olus primulinus var. "Maid of the Mist." The discoverer of this plant, which, by the way, the Kew authorities regard as a unique kind, was Mr. Francis Fox, a well-known engineer, and a member of the firm who built the bridge at the Zambesi Falls. The stock he was able to collect was placed by him in the hands of Messrs. Kelway and Son, Langport, to distribute. The plant grows three to four feet high, and bears bright golden-yellow and primula- WARM GREENHOUSE. 105 scented flowers in August. It requires to be grown in a temperature of 60 to 65 deg., and, coming from a moist climate, naturally demands a moist atmosphere. Since Messrs. Kelway and Son introduced this fine species, they have obtained a new race of charming hybrids by crossing it with Gladiolus gandavensis. Hec man thus. Although all the species of this genus come from South Africa, some require more warmth than others to grow them to perfection. The former, there- fore, we shall deal with here, and the latter under the heading of the cool greenhouse. The compost for these bulbs should be composed of two parts of sandy loam and one of equal proportions of peat, well-decayed manure, and coarse silver sand. Plant the bulbs singly with their apex exposed in six or eight-inch pots, according to size, in early spring; make the soil firm, and see the pots are well drained. Until growth becomes active, water sparingly, freely afterwards, and in winter give none at all. These bulbs do not require repotting often than once in three years. It is advisable, therefore, after the first year to give weak liquid manure in summer. Increased by offsets. The species requiring warm treatment are: Cinnabarium, red (spring) ; Katherinse, scarlet (spring) ; multifiorus (Syn Kalbreyeri), scarlet (spring); and Queen Alexandra, orange scarlet (spring) ; and albiflos, white (summer). Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa). Although the fra- grant Tuberose will do well in a cool house, it requires warmth to bring it early into flower. Indeed, it is a good plan to have three batches of tubers in hand, one in a cold frame, another in a cool house, and a third in the warm one. By bringing forward a few pots at a time from the lower to the higher temperatures, a succession of flowers may thus be obtained over a longer period. The tubers should be potted as soon as they can be 106 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. obtained in the autumn, planting them singly in 5in. pots in a compost of two parts loam, one part well-decayed manure, and plenty of coarse silver sand. Firm potting is very desirable. At this stage the tubers must not be introduced into heat, but placed in a shady cold frame to make roots. Give no water unless the soil appears to be dry until the tubers begin to show signs of growth. In the New Year the most forward in growth may be removed to the cool house > kept there for a month or so, then be transferred to the warm house. When in full growth give copious supplies of water, and syringe the foliage freely daily. As soon as the flower buds can be clearly seen give liquid manure twice a week. By adopting this code of culture Tuberoses may be easily grown with success. The tubers will not flower satisfactorily a second year in pots ; so either throw them away or plant them in a spare corner outdoors. The principal varieties are the Pearl (one of the best) ; Double African, American, and Italian. The flowers are white, double, and fragrant. COOL GREENHOUSE, 107 CHAPTEE III. COOL GREENHOUSE. IN this section such bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants as require only a little artificial heat in autumn, winter, and spring will be dealt with. The average night temperature should be 40 to 45 deg., or 50 to 55 deg. by day. These temperatures refer to artificial heat. On sunny days the temperature may, of course, go higher. A greenhouse of this character is a pretty general feature in small gardens. In summer no artificial heat will be required. Anoiganthus. A. breviflorus, the only species, is a South African bulbous plant, bearing yellow flowers in May. It is an interesting plant to grow by those who are fond of uncommon bulbs. The bulbs require to be grown four or five in 5in. pots, in a compost of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould, and plenty of coarse silver sand. Plant the bulbs two inches deep. After potting, place in a cool corner qf the green- house, and give no water till growth begins; then apply cautiously as it proceeds, watering more freely later on. The plants will do best on a sunny shelf until the flowers appear, After flowering, gradually withhold water, and keep dry all winter. Eepot in March, and start to grow as before. Increased by offsets. Antholyza. South African bulbous-rooted plants of easy culture, and very pretty when in flower. Plant half a dozen bulbs two inches deep in a 6in. pot in October, using a compost of equal proportions of loam, peat, leaf -mould, and coarse silver sand. Store in a cool part of the greenhouse, and give no water till growth begins. When the latter occurs place in a light position and 108 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. supply freely with water. In autumn withhold water, and keep dry till new growth commences, when repot and grow on as before. Increased by offsets. The best species are sethiopica, red and yellow (June) ; and paniculata, red and yellow (summer). Albuca. Bulbous-rooted plants from South Africa, that will do well in a cool house. Procure bulbs in October, and plant five bulbs two inches deep in a 5in. pot, in a compost of two parts loam and one of equal proportions of peat, leaf-mould, and coarse sand. In other respects treat as advised for Anio- ganthus. Increased by offsets. The species worth growing are : Aurea, yellow and green (June); Nelsonii, white and red (June). Arum. A tuberous-rooted plant, bearing curious flowers in spathes, green without and purple within, in winter. Called the Black Arum Lily. The tubers have to be planted singly in Sin. pots in autumn, in a compost of equal parts loam, leaf-mould, and coarse silver sand. Place the plant in a warm corner, and keep the roots moist. The plant grows during the winter and rests in spring and summer, when the soil must be kept dry. Increased by division. The species referred to is A. sanctum. Blandf ordia. Very showy and interesting Australian plants with bulbous-like roots, and suitable for cool green- house culture. These plants succeed best in a compost of equal parts peat, loam, and coarse silver sand, require to be potted firmly in well-drained pots in October, and to be kept dry from then till February, when begin to water freely. Repot every third year. Increased by division in October. The species worthy of culture are: Flamea aurea, yellow (summer), 1ft.; grandiflora, crimson (summer), 2ft.; and nobilis, orange (July), 2ft. COOL GREENHOUSE. 109 Coopcria. Beautiful fragrant - flowered bulbous plants, natives of Texas. The only species are Drum- mondi, white; and pedunculata, white, both flowering in August, and growing 6in. high. Grow in a compost of equal parts peat, loam, leaf- mould, and ear late in July, and sort them into three sizes. The largest may be sold to bulb dealers, and the remaining two smaller ones stored till October, then replanted to flower the next year. On good loamy or sandy soils narcissi grown thus will yield a considerable revenue. The flowers are usually marketed in bunches, each containing a dozen blooms arranged to face one way, and with a few leaves added. They are sold wholesale by the dozen bunches, these averaging is. to 4s. per dozen. The most popular sorts are Horsfieldi, Sir Watkin, Golden Spur, Princeps, Poeticus or- natus and Barri conspicuus. "Nosegay" Daffodils. A term applied to narcissi which bear several flowers in a bunch or umbel, as N. tazetta and its varieties. " Parrot" Tulip A race of tulips with laciniated or fantasti- cally-cut petals, grotesquely marked or feathered with brilliant yellow and scarlet colours. Said to be derived from Tulipa viridiflora. " Peat." This is decayed vegetable matter obtained from heaths or bogs, and it should be of a fairly solid consistency, plentifully intermixed with sand. Black boggy peat is usually too sour for use in gardens. " Perianth." A term applied to the petal-like appendages of a daffodil or narcissus flower, the segments of which radiate round the base of the corona or trumpet. The perianth in this case is the combination of the calyx and corolla. " Plunging." A term signifying the covering of newly-potted bulbs with cocoanut-fibre refuse (see diagram A) until they have an opportunity of forming roots. The latter is to keep the P9ts, etc., and the soil uniformly moist in order to dispense with watering. If newly-potted bulbs were exposed to the air the latter would extract the moisture from the soil and render the soil too dry ; then, if water was applied, before there were any roots to absorb it, the soil would be rendered GLOSSARY OF TERMS, ETC. 189 sour, and healthy root action would not take place. The pots or boxes should be placed in a frame or close to a north wall, and then be covered with about 6in. to Sin. of material. In the case of hyacinths and choice bulbs it is advisable to place a small inverted pot over each bulb before covering PLUNGING BULBS. Shows method of covering bulbs with ashes or fibre after potting. B. Shows method of covering bnlb with an inverted pot before covering with ashes, etc. with ashes. This prevents any deleterious substances in the ashes from injuring the bulb. It is well also to cover the material with a board, as shown in diagram B. Examine the 190 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION* bulbs once a week after they have been covered two months, and remove those that have begun to grow to a cold frame. The exclusion of light, as well as the moist surroundings of the material, promote rapid and healthy root action. 11 Poet's Daffodil." A term applied to the varieties of Nar- cissus poeticus, which have pure white perianth segments and a flattened corona or cup, edged with red. " Polyanthus Narcissi." A term applied to varieties of Nar- cissi tazetta. See "Nosegay Daffodils." 11 Pots." These are made of burnt clay and sold by the "cast." A "cast" means a given quantity of clay, which will make either two pots of the largest size or eighty of the smallest size. The standard sizes are as follows : Sizes of Ins. cliam. Ins. Flower Pots. at top. deep. Thimbles are inside 2 2 Thumbs (go's) -2\ 2^ Sixties (6o's) 3 3^ Forty-eights (48*5) 4i 5 Thirty-twos (32 J s) 6 6 Twenty-fours (24*5) 8 8 Sixteens (i6's) o/J 9 Twelves (i2's) ... ... ... n ... ... 10 Eights (8's) 12 ii Sixes (6's) 13 12 Fours U's) 15 13 Twos (2's) ... ... 18 14 When first received from the pottery the pots should be soaked in water before using, otherwise they will suck the moisture out of the soil, and do the roots an injury. Pots that have been used before should be well scrubbed in hot water prior to being used again. Dirty pots should on no account be used, as the filth on the exterior, as well as the interior, will prevent air having access to the soil, besides, in time, rendering the latter sour. "Protection." This implies covering in winter the site in which half-hardy bulbs are grown with a hand-light, bell-glass or cloche, or a frame. Other methods of protection are cover- ing the bed with a layer of bracken fern, litter, or cocoanut-fibre refuse. The idea is to prevent the soil becoming too damp in winter and thus easily rendering the bulbs subject to decay. 11 Rectified " Tulip. A term applied to seedling tulips that have changed from a self colour to two or more colours. " Rembrandt" Tulip. Similar to "Darwin" tulips in shape, but striped with a colour distinct from the basal or ground colour. " Retarded Bulbs." A term applied to bulbs placed in a refrigerating chamber when in a dormant state and kept there (GLOSSARY OF TERMS, ETC. 191 for a considerable time. The temperature of the freezing- chamber is usually maintained at 90 deg. below zero. During the period of storage growth is at Test. It is possible by this means to have such lilies as Harrisii, etc., in flower at any season of the year. Ordinary bulbs, as tulips, narcissi, and hyacinths, are not amenable to this treatment. Bulbs of Lilium Harrisii that have been retarded i.e., prevented making growth in their natural season will, in eight weeks after removal from the refrigerating chamber, be in full flower. No high temperature is required f9r growing retarded bulbs. Simply pot the bulbs, place them in a temperature of 40 deg. to 50 deg., and they will start into growth at once. They may even be started in a cold house to flower in ten weeks' time. Retarded bulbs are sold by most dealers. "Rose" Tulip A term applied to "rectified" tulips that have the ground colour of their flowers of a pure white marked with another colour, as rose, pink, scarlet, or crimson. "Sand." The coarse silver sand obtained from Bedfordshire is the best for bulb growing. Sea sand, if well washed and exposed to the air for a time to get rid of the excess of saline matter, will also do well for bulbs. "Self" Tulip. A term applied to seedling or "mother" tulips, which have their blooms of one colour only. "Spawn." A term applied to th-3 young corms which form on the roots of gladioli, and which, if removed, planted, and grown on, will in four or five years make flowering corms. " Star " Narcissi. A term applied to those forms of narcissi which have narrow, radiating perianth segments, as the N. Leedsii type. " Sterilising the Soil." A term used to signify the destruction of all animal and vegetable life in loam, leaf-mould, or manure used for potting or seed sowing. The simplest way is to spread the material out thinly, then apply boiling water through a fine rosed can in sufficient quantity to just saturate it. This will kill every weed seed, soil grub, or fungi, and do no harm to the fertility of the soil. t Immediately after applying the water throw the material into a heap, and use a day or so after- wards. " Top-dressing." A term applied to the practice of adding additional compost to pot-grown bulbs, as lilies, for example. The compost used for this purpose is usually a trifle richer than is employed for potting. Many kinds of 'bulbs, too, that do not require an annual repotting are benefited by top- dressing. In this case the old surface mould is removed to the depth of an inch or more and replaced by fresh compost. "Tuber." See Chapter I., p. 12. INDEX. PAGE Abobra, Culture of ; ... 34 viridiflora 43 Acaena microphylla 24 Achimenes, Culture of ... 88 Albuca, Greenhouse Culture 108 ,, Species of 48 Allium, Species of 48 Alliums, Culture in Borders 22 Culture on Rockeries 24 ,, Greenhouse Culture 120 Alstromerias, Culture of ... 35 Greenhouse Culture 120 Species of , 43 Amaryllis belladonna 49 Greenhouse Culture 121 Amorphophallus, Culture of 35 Rivieri 43 Anemone, Caen 35 > Poppy 35 ,, Sclerotinia 162 St. Brigid 35 Anemones, Culture in Bor- ders 22 Culture of , 35 ,, Greenhouse Culture 121 Poppy, Select 182 ,, Species of 44 Anioganthus, Culture of ... 107 Anomatheca, Greenhouse Culture) 136 Antennaria tomentosa 24 Antholyza, Species of 49 An J 155 Aphides 155 Apic-s, taberosa , 44 PAGE Arabis, Double 23 Arenarias as Carpeting Plants 24 Arum crinitum 40 italicum 44 sanctum 108 Arums, Culture of 37 Asclepias tuberosa 37 Aubrietias 24 Babiana, Greenhouse* Cul- ture 121 7 , Species of 49 Babianas, Select 184 Banks, Bulbs on 29 Beds, Hyacinths for 171 ,, Narcissi for 177 Tulips for 173 Begonias, Culture Outdoors 37 ,, Greenhouse Culture 101 Belamacanda chinensis ... 49 ,, Greenhouse Culture 122 Bel'levalia 49 Bessera elegans 50 Bizarre Tulip 198 Blandifordia, Culture of .., 108 Bloomeria, Greenhouse Cul- ture 1 122 Outdoor Culture ... 50 Bobartia, see Homeria 58 Borders, Bulb Culture in ... 22 Boussingaultia baselloides. . . 44 ,, Culture of 38 Bowls, Bulb Culture in ... 80 ,, Hyacinths for 170 Tulips for 173 INDEX. 193 PAGE Boxing Bulbs 147 Bravoa geminiflora 50 Greenhouse Culture 122 Bravoas, Culture on Rock- eries 24 Breeder Tulip 185 Brevoortia Ida-Mai 50 Brevoortias, Greenhouse Cul- ture 122 Brodisea coccinea, see Bre- voortia 50 Brodiaeas, Culture on Rock- eries 24 Species of 50 Broken Tulip 185 Brunsvigia, Culture of ... 103 Bulb, Definition of a 9 Bulbils, Propagation by ... 153 Bulbocodium, Greenhouse Culture 123 vernum 50 Bulbs, Cold Greenhouse ... 119 Cool Greenhouse ... 107 Culture in Frame's 148 Culture in Moss ... 80 Culture in Water ... 77 Forcing 146 Hothouse Culture of 88 List of 48 Retarded 190 Warm Greenhouse... 101 Byblcemen Tulip 185 Caladium, Culture of 90 Calochortus, Greenhouse Cul- ture* 123 ., Species of 51 Calopogon pulchellus 44 Camassia, Species of 52 Campanulas 24 Carpeting Plants for Beds... 19 ,, for Borders 23 Chalioe-cup Daffodil 166 Chionodoxa, Species of 52 Chionodoxas, Culture in Borders 22 Culture on Rockeries 24 Gree'nhouse Culture 124 PAGE Chlidanthus fragrans 53 ,, Greenhouse Culture 124 Chilorogalum pomeridianum 53 Colchicum Smut 163 Species of 53 Colchicums, Greenhouse Cul- ture 125 Colocasia, Culture of 92 Colour Schemes 19 Commelina Coektetis 44 Culture of 38 Cooperi Drummondi .., 53 ,, Greenhouse Culture of 109 Corm, Definition of a 12 Cormiets, Meaning of 11 Corona, Meaning of 185 Crinum, Culture of 103 Crocosmia aurea 53 Crocosmias, Culture in Bor- ders 22 ,, Greenhouse Culture 125 Crocus, Species of 53 Crocuses, Culture in Beds... 18 Culture in Borders 22 Dutch Select 183 ,, Greenhouse Culture 126 Cross-breeding 185 Crown Imperial Lily 166 Crydalis bulbosa and tube- rosa 38 Cyclamen, Cold Greenhouse 127 Culture of, Outdoor 38 Greenhouse Culture 109 ,, Species of 44 Cypella, Greenhouse Culture 127 ,, Species of 55 Daffodil, Meaning of Name 186 Dahlia, Culture of 38 Daisies, Double 23 Dart Moth Caterpillars 161 Darwin Tulip, Meaning of 186 Dierama, Greenhouse Cul- ture 127 ,, pulcherrimum 55 Diseases , 162 it Anemone Sclerotina 162 Colchicum Smut ... 163 Freesia Disease ... 164 194 INDEX. PAGE Diseases ,, Hyacinth Bacteriosis 162 Iris Bulb Scab 164 Japanese Lily Disease 163 Lily Disease 163 Snowdrop Mildew ... 164 ,, Tulip Mould 164 Division, Propagation by ... 153 Dolly-cup Narcissi 186 Dracunculus vulgare 39 Dragon Tulip, Meaning of 186 English Names of Bulbs... 166 Eranthis, Culture of 39 Greenhouse Culture 128 Species of 46 Eremurus, Culture of 39 Species of 45 Erythroniums, Greenhouse Culture 128 ,, Species of 45 Eucharis, Culture of 92 Eucomis, Greenhouse Cul- ture 128 punctata 65 Eurycles, Culture of 94 Feathered Tulip 186 Ferraria undulata 65 Fibre, Bulb Culture in 60 Flamed Tulip 186 Forcing Bulbs 146 ,, Narcissi for 175 Tulips for 172 Forget-me-nots 23 Frames, Bulb Culture in ... 148 Freesia, Culture of 110 Disease .., 164 Fritillarias, Greenhouse Cul- ture 129 ,, Species: of 55 lutea 56 Galanthus, Greenhouse Cul- ture 129 Species of 56 Galtonia candicans 57 Greenhouse Culture 130 PAGE Geissorhiza Greenhouse Culture 130 ,, rochensis 57 Gelasine- azurea 57 ,, Greenhouse Culture 130 Geranium tuberosum 46 Gesnera, Culture of 94 Gladiolus, Butterfly 181 Childsii 181 Culture in Borders... 22 Early -flowering ... 179 gandavensis 180 Greenhouse Culture 131 Kelway Hybrid 180 primulinus 104 Species of 57 Glasses, Hyacinths for 78 Gloriosa, Culture of 95 Gloxinia, Culture of 96 Griffinia, Culture of 98 Guernsey Lily 167 Hsemanthus, Greenhouse Culture Ill Warm Greenhouse 1 ... 105 Habenaria, Species of 46 Habranthus, Greenhouse Cul- ture 131 ,, pratensis 58 Half Hardy, Definition of ... 187 Hedge Banks, Bulbs on ... 29 Helicodiceros crinitum 46 Culture of 40 Herb Lilies 167 Hippeastrum, Culture of ... 98 Homeria collina 58 Hutchinsia alpina 24 Hyacinth Bacteriosis 164 ,, Greenhouse Culture 132 Sclerotinia 164 Hyacinths, Culture in Beds 18 ,, Culture in Borders... 22 for Bedding 171 for Pots 170 ,, Miniature 171 Roman 132 Hybrid, Definition of Term 187 Hymenoeallie, Greenhouse Culture , Ill INDEX. 195 PAGE Hymenocallis Hothouse, Culture of 99 ,', Species of 58 Hypoxis Greenhouse Culture 111 etellata 58 Iris, Bulb Scab 164 Greenhouse Culture 134 Species of 58 Irises, Culture in Borders ... 22 Culture on Rockeries 24 English, Select 179 Spanish, Select 179 Ismene 58 Ixias Greenhouse Culture... 135 ' Select 182 Species of 60 Ixiolirion, Species of , 60 Japanese Lily Disease 163 Jonquil, Meaning of Word 187 Labels 187 Lachenalias, Culture of ... 112 Lapeyrousia cruenta 61 Greenhouse Culture 136 Leaf Cuttings, Propagation by 153 Leaf-mould 187 Leather-jacket Grubs 159 Leucojum, Species of 61 Lifting and Storing 16 Liliums, Cold Greenhouse Culture 136 ,, Greenhouse Culture 113 Speciete of 61 Lilies for Ordinary Soils ... 32 for Kich Soils 32 for Shady Positions 32 Grouping 33 Outdoor Culture of... 33 Planting 33 Lily Disease 163 Linaria alpina 24 Loam 187 Lycoris, Greenhouse Culture 138 Species of , 67 Madonna Lily 167 PAGB Manures, Basic Slag 15 Bone Meal 15 Cowdung 14 for Bulbs 14 Kainit 15 Nitrate of Soda 15 Sulphate of Iron ... 15 Sulphate of Potaeh 15 Superphosphate ... 15 Marvel of Peru, Culture of 40 Mealy Bug 157 Merendera, Greenhouse Cul- ture 138 Speciefe of 67 Mice 157 Milla biflora 68 Greenhouse Culture 139 Mirabilis, Culture of 40 Moles 158 Montbretia, see Tritonia ... 74 Montbretias, Select 181 Moss, Bulb Culture in 80 Mother Tulip 187 Mulching , 201 Muscaris, Culture in Borders 22 ,, Greenhouse Culture 139 ' Species of 68 Narcissus, Culture in Beds. . . 18 Culture in Borders... 22 for Beds 177 for Borders 177 for Cutting .., 177 for Forcing 176 for Naturalising ... 177 for Pot Culture 176 for Rockeries 178 for Shady Positions 178 Fly 156 Greenhouse Culture 140 Meaning of 179 Species of 68 Naturalising Bulbe by Waterside 30 Bulbs in Pastures ... 28 Bulbs in Shrubberies 29 Bulbs in Woodlands 29 Bulbs on Banks 29 Bulbs on Lawns , 27 196 INDEX. PAGE Naturalising Narcissi for 177 Naegelia, Culture of 100 Nerine, Culture of 114 Northoscordium fragrans ... 71 Nosegay Daffodils 188 Offsets, Propagation by ... 152 Orchids, Hardy Tuberous- rooted 40 Orchis, Bee 41 Butterfly 40 Fly ....' 41 Madeira 41 Marsh 41 Sawfly 41 ,, Species of 46 Spider 41 Ophrys, Species of 46 Ornithogalums, Cold Green- house Culture ... 141 Greenhouse Culture 115 Species of 71 Oxalis, Culture of 116 Pancratiums, Greenhouse Culture 141 ,, Hothouse Culture of 100 Species of 71 Pansies 24 Parrot Tulip, Definition of 188 Pastures, Bulbs in 28 Peat 188 Perianth, Meaning of 188 Pests 154 Ants 155 Aphides 155 Dart Moth Cater- pillars 161 Eucharis Mite 160 Leather-jacket Grubs 159 Mealy Bug 157 Mice and Bats 157 Moles 158 Narcissus Fly 156 Eats and Mice 157 Red Spider 159 Slugs and Snails ... 161 Sparrows 158 PA.QB Peats Thrips 156 Weevils 159 Wireworms 160 Phaedranassa, Species of ... 72 Phlox, Alpine 24 Plunging, Meaning of 188 Poet's Daffodil 190 Polianthes tuberosa 72 Polyanthuses 19 Polyanthus Narcissus ...... 190 Pots 190 Primroses 24 Propagation 150 by Bulbils .. : 153 by Division 153 ,, by Leaf Cuttings ... 153 by Offsets 152 by Scales 153 by Seeds 149 Protecting Bulbs 25 Protection of Bulbs 190 Puschkinias, Culture on Rocfceiries 24 Greenhouse Culture 142 Puschkinia scilloides 72 Ranunculus, Culture of ... 41 Culture in Borders... 22 Varieties of 183 asiaticus 87 Dutch 41 French 41 Persian 41 Turban 41 Rats 157 Rectified Tulip 190 Rembrandt Tulip 190 Retarded Bulbs 190 Rigidella flaminea 142 Rockeries, Bulb Culture on 24 Narcissi for 177 Rose Tulip 191 Sal via patens 42 Sand , 191 Sandersonia, Culture of ... 100 Saxifragas 24 Scales, Propagation by 153 Scarboro' Lily 168 INDEX. PAGE: Schizostylis coecinea , 47 Scillas, Greenhouse Culture 142 Species of 72 Culture in Borders... 22 Sedums 24 Seeds, Propagation by 150 Self Tulip 191 Shrubberies, Bulbs in 29 Silene pendula compacta ... 19 Slugs and Snails 161 Snowdrop, Culture in Beds 18 Culture in Borders... 22 Culture in Pots 129 Snowdrop Mildew 164 Soil, Sterilising 191 ,, Treatment of 14 Soils and Manures 14 Sparaxis grandiflora 73 Greenhouse Culture 142 Select 184 Sparrows 158 Spawn, Meaning of 191 Sprekelia, Culture of 117 Star Narcissi 191 Sternbe^gias, Greenhouse Culture 143 Species of 73 Storing Bulbs and Tubers... 16 Tecophilaea cyanocrocus ... 73 Greenhouse Culture 143 Thrips 156 Tigridia, Greenhouse Culture 143 ,, Species of 73 Top-dre'ssing 191 Triteleia, see Brodisea uni- flora 50 Tritonias, Greenhouse Cul- ture , 144 Species of 74 Culture in Borders... 22 Select 181 Tropa3olum, Culture of ...... 42 Species of 47 PAGE Tuber, Definition of a 12 Tuberose, Greenhouse Cul- ture 105 Tuberous-rooted Plants 34 List of 43 Tulip Mould 164 Tulips., Species of 74 Cottage or May- floweting 174 Culture in Beds ... 18 Culture in Borders 22 Darwin, Select 174 Dragon, Select 173 for Bedding , 173 for Forcing 172 for Pots 172 Greenhouse Culture 132 Parrot 173 Rembrandt, Select... 175 Variegated 174 Uvularia grandiflora 76 Vallota, Culture of 117 Veronicas 24 Violas 22 Violettas ; 24 Wallflowers 18 Water, Bulb Culture in ... 77 Waterside, Bulbs by the ... 30 Watsonias, Greenhouse Cul- ture 146 Species of 76 Weevils 159 Window Boxes, Bulbs in ... 85 Winter Aconite 169 Wireworms :. 160 Woodlands, Bulbs in 29 Zephyranthes, Greenhouse Culture 146 Species of 76 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Amaryllis Belladonna, facing p. 135 Bulbs, How to Plant 20 Mode of Plunging 189 Types of 10 Caladiums, Culture of 91 Camassia Cusickii, facing p. 121 Colchicum autumnale, facing p. 127 ,, speciosum and album .facing p. 145 Corms, Types of 11 Crinum Powelli .facing p. 97 Crocus speoiosus .facing p. 1 44 ,, versicolor ... facing p. 126 Cyclamen persicum . . .facing p. Ill Daffodil, King Alfred, facing p. 176 Daffodils, Naturalised on a Bank .facing p. 26 Eremurus robustus, facing p. 38 Erythronium grandiflorum giganteum facing p. 39 Freesia refracta alba, facing p. 110 Fritillaria Meleagris,/ac> g p. 1 58 Gladiolus Lemoinei Gil Bias, facing p. 149 Gloxinia, A Good Type of, facing p. 96 Hyacinth, Culture 133 King of the Yel- lows facing p. 134 Hyacinths, Tulips and Violas in a Bed facing p. 21 Iris xiphioides Celestial Blue, facing p. 120 Ixia, White Queen, facing p. 148 Ixiolirion tartaricum, facing p. 170 Lilium auratum facing p. 27 Lilium monadelphum szovitz- ianum Frontispiece Lilium testaceum, facing p. 32 Lily Bulbs, How to Pot 137 Narcissus bicolor Victoria ... 45 ,, Fly and Larva 156 ,, grown in Moss Fibre . . facing p. 45 ,, poetaz Elvira, facing p. 44 ,, poeticus Homer, facing p. 177 Scilla hispanica Rose Queen, facing p. 171 Tubers, Types of 13 Tulips grown in Fibre, facing p. 159 ,, Naturalised on a Grassy Bank, facing p. 20 Rembrandt, /aciny p. 33 ADVERTISEMENTS. 199 The finest selection obtainable. . . * Immense stocks of all the most beautiful varieties. Write for a copy of BUTTONS BULB CATALOGUE Containing complete lists and full descriptions of all the best varieties of Narcissi, Hyacinths, Tulips, etc. Published Annually in August. Post Free. Sutton & Sons, the King's Seedsmen, 200 ADVERTISEMENTS. ESTABLISHED 1832. ANT. ROOZEN AND SON'S SPLENDID DUTCH, CAPE, AND EXOTIC Bulbs, HERBACEOUS PLANTS, and ALL OF THE FINEST QUALITY. Our Descriptive CATALOGUES of the above, containing full cultural directions, are published in JANUARY and JUNE, and will be sent FREE on application to our Offices at OVERVEEN, HAARLEM, HOLLAND, or to our General Agents, MERTENS & CO., 3, Cross Lane, St. Mary - at - Hill, LONDON, E.G. No connection with any other firm of a similar name. TWOPENCE. WEEKLY- A High-class Illustrated Journal dealing: with every phase of Horticulture under Glass and in the Open Air. Established 1833. Printed on Art Paper. Orchids Roses Landscape Gardening Fruit- Hardy Flowers Stove and Greenhouse, &c. Illustrations of New and Beautiful Flowers, Fruits, Trees, Picturesque Gardens, &c. TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION. 12 months, 1O/6. 6 months, 5j6. 3 months, 8/-. To Foreign Countries, 14/- per annum. OFFICES: 148 & 149, ALDERSGATE STREET, LONDON. ADVERTISEMENTS. 201 Telegrams: "Bam*, London.' QOLD /At DAL I-/ A I I THE MOST LOVELY OF ALL SPRING Awarded Thirty-three Gold Medals and a Ten Guinea Challenge Cup. Bart's Special Daffodil Catalogue, fully describing all the beat sorts la cultivation, including New Seeding Varieties, with many valuable hints oa culture^ etc. Sent free on application. BARK'S 42/- Collection fop Pot Culture, Greenhouse and Sitting- Room Decoration. Contains 6 strong Bnlba each of 30 beautiful varieties. Half the above Collection for 21/- BARR'S 2l/- Collection for Flower Borders. Contains 6 strong Bulbs each of 26 fine handsome varieties. Half the above Collection for 10/6 BARR'S 217 Collection for Naturalising: in Wood lands, Shrubberies, Grass, etc. Contains 500 strong Bulbs, in 20 fine showy sorts, all suitable for Naturalising. For other Collections of Daffodils, See Barr's Daffodil Catalogue, sent on application. BARR'S AUTUMN BULB CATALOGUES Contain a Descriptive List of the Best Spring and Summer- flowering Bulbs and Tubers, including the finest varieties of Daffodils, Hyacinths, Tulips, Irises, Lilies, etc., for Forcing and for Bedding, and many beautiful rarities in Cape and Californian Bulbs. They are illustrated from original photographs taken at our Nurseries, and are full of practical information on forcing Bulbs, planting for best effect in Flower Beds or Borders, Naturalising in Woodland, Meadows, Wild Gardens, etc". SNT POST FKBB ON APPLICATION. BARR & SONS, 11 9 12 & 13 9 Kingr St., Covent Garden* London. Nurseries at Tapiow, Bucks, near Taplow Station. 202 ADVERTISEMENTS. COUHHttD PUTE EVERY WEEK. The LARGEST and BEST PAPER for AMATEUR GARDENERS * * A Coloured Plate is Presented Gratis Every WeeK. TIMBRE is no other journal so eagerly sought by all classes of Gardeners. The bright, crisp, and intensely practical manner in which it deals with all phases of gardening has made it pre-eminent. Every Newsagent stocks it. .'. .'. .'. .'. Price One Penny. London: 146-9, Aldersgate Street, E.G. ADVERTISEMENTS. 203 WORLD-RENOWNED Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening. Price 3/6 By Post, a/ 10 ERE IS NO OTHER GARDENING BOOK that has met with such continuous success and appreciation. Its merits have called forth edition after edition. THE REASON IS that it tells AT A GLANCE all one wants to know about the CULTURE. PROPAGATION, and DESCRIPTION of FRUIT, FLOWERS, VEGETABLES. PLANTS, TREES, and SHRUBS, including TIME OF PLANTING, COLOUR, HEIGHT, and FLOWERING PERIOD. It includes their LATIN and COMMON NAMES. The Busy Man's Garden Guide. W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148-9, ALDERSGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C. flLL GARDENERS KNOW THAT GLORIOUS DISPLAYS OF BULBS RESULT FROM THE REGULAR USE OF Clay's Fertilizer THE WORLD'S PLANT FOOD. " A jndicions use of CLAY'S MANURES will be found more satisfactory than a too liberal use of stable or other animal manures, as these frequently contain injurious insect life." K TBINDEB. it Is Unsurpassed for all Horticultural Purposes. G L A r s IT PRODUCES ALL Flowers, Foliage, Fruits, and Vegetables in Profusion and in the Highest Perfection. CLAY'S FERTILIZER Is sold everywhere in \J^V Tins, 6d. and i/- ; Sealed Bags: 7-lbs., a/6; *Cr^ V 14-lbs., 4/6; 28-lbs., 7/6; 56-lbs., ia/6; LONOON 112 lbs ' ao/ 7l /* Or direct from the Works, Carriage Paid in the United vV^ 4& Kingdom for Cash with Order (except 6d. Tins). vf*f l.\*f D- Every Tin, Bag and Seal bear* the TRADE MARK- rftAOC MARK the only Guarantee of Genuineness. CLAY'S SUCCESSFUL GARDENING, 5th edition. 333 pages, coloured plates, bound in cloth. Contributions by eminent writer*, including up-to-date information upon Bulb Culture, by recognised experts. I/, net, of Seedsmen, etc., or Poet Free for that amount direct from the Publishers : CLAY & SON, "ssassasr STRATFORD, LONDON, E. THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE. y&v 1 : L24Q MAY IB 1940 WIHT -L w iw*^ JAN 1Q 1947 * Rt mvTT^Bfl 6Aug'52flf? JU12S J9559LU LD 21-100m-7,'39(402s) YB 48629 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY