University of California Berkeley X A S . HUNTLEY & PALMERS HAVT> JL GOLD MEDAL AWARDED ** BY THIE NATIONAL ACADEMT OF AGRICULTURE MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCED PARIS. WERE EXHIBITORS AT THE FOLLOWINGEXHIBITILWS LONDON, 1851 &l 862 1B68 PARIS. 1 855 & 1867. AMSTERDAM. 1869. HAVRE, LYONS, }Q12> LIMA. JB72. VIENNA,I873.MEDAL"FOR PROGRESS SANTIAGO, 1875, SPECIAL PRIZE. AT ALL OP WHICH "X They received the highest Award given j y\ Biscuits to any English House. These Biscuits are made of the finest materials, and from their great variety of Shape and Flavour, acknowledged Superiority of Make, and fine keeping qualities, they have obtained a very extensive and increasing sale in England, the Continent, and the various Markets throughout the World. They are packed in Tins containing i Ib. and upwards, also in Casks and Boxes, to meet the con- venience of the Trade and Shippers. Ces Biscuits sont composes des meilleures matieres premieres. Us se distinguent par leur grande facilite de conservation, leur variete de forme et de gout, et la superiorite reconnue de leur fabrication, qui leur ont obtenu une vente tres etendue et toujours croissante en Angleterre, sur le Continent d'Europe, et sur tous les marches du monde en general. Us sont emballes dans des Boites de fer blanc de poids divers a partir d'une livre, et aussi en Barils et Caisses, a la convenance des acheteurs. Sirsc 53i0ctitts foertirn faon fcm feinstcn fHaterialtm angeferttgt unti fjafjen &urcfj life fHattttt'cffalttcjMt iftrcr JFormm, ihrcn EKiohljjescfrmacfe, tote anerfeannte U0r5uglichfeeit ifjrer Zu&mitnngm unlj Ute Ittgens schaft untiertnintiErter |l?altbarkcit rmcn scfjr ausgetiEhntm tmti stets jumfjmentim bsaj in fSnglanU, auf trcm J7stlanti unti auf alien fHatktcn tier fflmelt, trlangt. Sic ijjcvticn in BlecfjUosen faon I ^funti unti auf&jarts berpacfet, trcsglctcfjEn in jTasscru unti Histm cntsprecfjenU ticn SHuttscfjcn ties gantlets untf tier Uerstfttffer. Estas Galletas son hechas de los mas finos materiSles ; y por la gran variedadide sus Fonnas y Gustos, la bien conocida superioridad de su Fabricacion y el tiempo que se conservan, han merecido un despacho muy considerable no solamente en In gla terra, y el Continente de Europa, sino tambien en todas la poblaciones del Mundo f~\ que scan de alguna importancia. Van embaladas en Cajas de Hoja deijLata de una libra inglesa de peso 6 mas, 6 en Barriles 6 Cajones seguii sea mas conveniente al Compra*dor. \> LONDON & READING ? \-m/ l V ( *J/ 9 A ^^ t-tb^ 1877. & ROUTE. nger$ from the United States intending to visit Europe are informed that THROUGH TICKETS For the portion of the journey, across England by the London and North Western Railway (the direct route from Liverpool to London) are obtainable AT ANY OF THE OFFICES OF THE TRANS- ATLANTIC STEAMSHIP COMPANIES IN NEW YORK AND BOSTON. LIVERPOOL TERMINUS. At Liverpool (one of the termini of the line) arrangements of a most complete character have been made for dealing with^passengers to and from America, as well as their baggage. On arrival at Liverpool, carts will be found in readiness to convey passengers' baggage to the Lime Street Station, the scale of charges in operation being regulated by a tariff laid down by the municipal authorities. The Company have representatives appointed to meet the steam vessels on arrival, at Liverpool, and to act on the instructions of the passengers with reference to the con^eyance-$f their lufcgage. A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL, "THE NORTH WESTERN," Containing iflUfrards of 2OO bedroofts, with spacious tffcffijje room available for ladies and gentlemen, and replete with every accommodation, adjoins this terminus. EXPRESS TRAINS, at frequent intervals, leave for London (which is reached in five hours) Manchester, Birming- ham, and all parts of the kingdom. At Liverpool (Lime Street terminus) Through Tickets can be obtained for all parts of the L T nited Kingdom, either for tours or single journeys. Passengers wishing to make arrangements for Continental journeys can obtain every information at Messrs. Gaze & Son's Branch Office at the Lime Street Station, and No. 4, Parker Street ; or at the Head Office in London (142, Strand). Passengers desiring to obtain information in Liverpool respecting the London and North Western Railway, should apply to Mr. James Shaw, the District Superintendent at Lime Street Station. IRISH MAIL TO LONDON. The Atlantic and other lines of steamers put in at Queenstown, and by alighting at this place, American passengers can avail themselves of the Irish Mail Trains by the^rreat Southern and Western Railway to Dublin, and thence proceed to Kingstown, the port from which trie- magnificent steam vessels of the City of Dublin Company, leave for Holyhead, where on land- ing the passengers can at once seat themselves in the splendidly-equipped carriages of the London and North Western Company's celebrated Irish Mail Train for London. The Mail Train completes the journey from Holyhead to London (264 miles) in seven and a-half hours, there being only three stoppages on the way. The engines are provided with an apparatus by which they are enabled, as they travel, to take up water from horizontal troughs which are laid between the rails. Sleeping saloons are attached to the Night Mails both from and to London. KENILWORTH, WARWICK, STRATFORD-ON-AVON. The Irisn Mail Trains from Holyhead, and the Express Train from Liverpool, afford a rapid service to Birmingham. Kenilworth and Warwick are easily reached by the trains from New Street Station, Birmingham. A new line of railway has been opened through from Stratford -on- Avon to London, -via Blisworth, by which quick trains are run daily. LONDON TERMINUS. The London terminus of the London and North Western Railway is at Euston Square and there are tv^t> hotels for the accommodation of families and gentlemen immediately adjoining the station the " Victoria," on the western side, and the "Euston," on the eastern side of the entrance. The London and North Western Railway Company have Central Offices* in Manchester and Birmingham, with complete arrangements for through bookings. The Company's Super- intendents will afford all information lo visitors in those districts. information respecting trains, fares, &c., apply to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station. The London and North Western Railway Company have also through booking arrange- ments for parcels and goods traffic from Liverpool and Holyhead , o all the principal towns in the kingdom and on the Continent. Full particulars as to mercha ndise can be obtained of Mr. Thomas Kay, Chief Goods Manager, Euston Station. GEORGE FINDLAY, Euston Station, London. Chief Traffic Manager Feb^ 1877. * PASSENGER SERVICE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND THE CONTINENT. The GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY COMPANY have recently introduced great improve- ments into their Continental Service, via Harwich, and this route now presents the following advantages The Steamers are by far the finest, largest, and best fitted of any engaged in the service between England and the Continent, having all been specially built for this service. The service is between Harwich and Rotterdam and Harwich and Antwerp, and at each of these ports the draught of water is such as to enable the large Steamers employed in this service to enter or leave the Harbours at any state of the tide, so that the Steamers land and embark their Passengers from the Quay, and in no case are small Boats used. The Through Booking and Tourist arrangements for Passengers and Luggage are the most complete of any Company carrying to the Continent. Through Tickets and Tourist Tickets are issued to all chief towns and places of interest in Holland, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Russia, &c. Owing to the directness of the route the Through Fares will be found lower than those by any other first class route. In London the Passengers depart from and arrive at LIVERPOOL STREET STATION, which is one of the largest and most convenient in the World, having direct rail com- munication with all parts of London and England generally. A Continental Express Train leaves Liverpool Street Station each evening for Harwich, in direct communication with the Steamers for Antwerp and Rotterdam, and in the same way a Train leaves Harwich for London on the arrival of the Continental Steamers. Tickets can be obtained in London at WEST END OFFICE, 28, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Messrs. T. COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street. Messrs. GAZE & SON, 142, Strand, W.C. LIVERPOOL STREET STATION; or by sending Post Office Order, or Cheque on the Cheque Bank to the Continental Department, Liverpool Street Station, Tickets will be sent free by post to any address. For Time Tables and all particulars apply to the Continental Department, Great Eastern Railway, London. Thf Couipajiy isHiK- lMri-:i orToiu-ibt Ticlft s lo nil [minis indicated in S'fiiif- L' j t/v .lotted lines thus n Jd.Liili? Lou.l.m L ALSO EST MNDMGEN^S FOR THE WHITE STAR LINE United States Mail Steamers. BERTHS CAN BE SECURED AND EVERY INFORMATION OBTAINED AT THE ABOVE ADDRESS WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE, | Feb., 1877. Patented 1862, 1868, 1871, and 1875, in Great Britain, France, Prussia, Austria, Belgium, Italy, a^id America. PHILADELPHIA CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION, 1876, THE GRAND MEDAL OF HONOUR, AND DIPLOMA OF MERIT For the "Good quality of tone, pliability of touch, improvements, simplicity of action, and excellence of workmanship." LONDON . . . 1862, PRIZE MEDAL. PARIS . . . 1867, NETHERLANDS, 1869, LE DIPLOME DE LA PARIS . . .1870, GOLD MEDAL. PARIS, 1874, HIGHEST AWARD THE GRAND DIPLOMA OF HONOUR. MENTION EXTRAORDINAIRE. WERE AWARDED TO JOHN BRINSMEAD & SONS, Pianoforte Manufacturers, 18, WIGMORE STREET, LONDON, W., FOR THEIR "PERFECT CHECK REPEATER" ACTION PIANOFORTES. SIR JULIUS BENEDICT, * A most valuable and ingenious invention which cannot fail to meet with success." SIDNEY SMITH, "Produces a touch which is absolute perfection" BRINLEY RICHARDS, "Likely to be extensively adopted." W. KUHE, " I consider the Instruments manufactured by you to be most excellent in tone, touch, and quality of material." The ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS, " The improvements made in English pianos have caused this trade rapidly to increase, until one pianoforte manufactory after another has been built to supply the growing demand. One of the largest of these, lately erected by Messrs. John Brinsmead & Sons, of "Wigmore -street, covers nearly an acre of ground in the Graf ton- road, Kentish-town, and is intended to accommodate 300 workmen. These works alone can supply 3000 pianos annually." The STANDARD, "Has received the greatest approbation everywhere." The MORNING POST, " The touch is Beautifully light and the repetition instantaneous." The ECHO, " Rendered perfect in every respect. 1 ' The ENGINEER, 41 Its simplicity ensures its keeping in order. The MUSICAL TIMES, " Of the utmost importance to pianists." Ac., &c., &c. pianofortes Manufactured expressly for Extreme Climates. Illustrated Price Littt and detcriptiont of this invention, with Opinions of the London Press and Musical Profetlion, formarded by post on application. MANUFACTORY- THE "BKINSHEAD WOKKS/; GHAFTON KQAD, TOWJV, IV. W. Feb., 1877. r-:!> J l/t* NT THE PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. OFFICIAL GUIDE. TO WHICH IS APPENDED A TOURIST GUIDE, SPECIALLY PREPARED WITH MAPS 3<>7 360 Valparaiso 3,575 Coo Arequipa 1,065 250 Araucania 2,877 500 Callao 1,062 320 Patagonia 2,866 500 Quito 743 250 Cordillera 2,860 500 Talca ... 707 260 Magellan 2,856 500 Guayaquil 660 250 Bolivia ,925 400 Huacho 329 50 Ayacucho .916 400 Iquique 323 75 Valdivia ,860 300 Supe ... 298 5 Eten ,852 300 Taboguilla 153 50 Atacama ,821 300 Chucuito 75 20 Coquimbo ,820 300 Baja 74 30 1 Aggregate tonnage Aggregate horse power Fifty Steamers The very modest indeed it might almost be character- ized as timid beginning 1 of the development of the vast trade on the South American coasts with ^reat Britain has been already alluded to, yet it remains to be stated that the The Pacific Steam Navigation Company, 7 policy and aspirations of the company, although not eminently successful at first, were nevertheless so far encouraging as to justify perseverance in 'carrying them out. Pursuing their original intentions, the company continued up to the year 1866 to load their new steamers in Liverpool, and despatch them for permanently trading on the South American coast. About the end of the year following that last named the company after due deliberation, decided to extend their operations by organizing a line of first-class steamers to run between Liverpool and Valparaiso, both out and home, and carrying the mails both ways. For carrying out this determination, they despatched their then new and splendid steamship Pacific, of 1630 tons and 450 horse power, nominal, from Liverpool for Valparaiso in May, 1868, as the pioneer of the new mail line to run every two months from each port, calling at Bordeaux, Lisbon, Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and Sandy Point, in the Straits of Magellan. The advantages of this undertaking having been proved by experience, and yielding to the require- ments of a still growing trade, the company were induced to increase their sailings at first to a monthly despatch, and subsequently to a fortnightly, and eventually to a weekly despatch both ways. In adopting this bold line of policy the management were justified by the exigencies of a large existing trade, and by the still growing prospects of com- merce presented on the American continent. For carrying out and maintaining this project it became necessary to greatly augment the fleet, which now consists of the splendid ships, the names and capacities of which have been stated above. Unfortunately, in the instance last referred to, the expec- tations of the management were not fully realized. Trade of every kind in South America became dull. An extra- ordinary inflation in the price of coal greatly increased the expense of working the line ; other items of expenditure were also greatly increased, and instead of realizing a reasonable amount of profit, an investigation showed that a loss had been sustained on the working of the traffic. This, as might have been imagined, led to the abandonment of the weekly sailings ; instead of which they were reduced to a fortnightly despatch, 8 The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. at which the sailings now continue. As there is every reason, however, to expect a revival of the South American as well as other trades, and also a considerable reduction in the price of coal indeed this has to some extent been already effected and other costly articles of consumption, there are reasonable grounds for the expectation of a return to that prosperity which had hitherto attended the undertakings of the company. Such an expectation is fairly warranted by the great value of the imports brought from South America by the vessels belonging to the company, and by the extent and value of the cargoes they carry out. In addition to these advantages, it is right to state that the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have made, and still work, through traffic arrangements with all the companies trading to the Isthmus of Panama, in which are included those to the North Pacific, as well as those to New York, Liverpool, Southampton, St. Nazaire, and Hamburg. The company is also in receipt of subsidies, comparatively small in amount, from all the South American republics, in consideration of conveying their mails along the coast. Although only a small source of revenue, this is in itself nevertheless of some value, as it frees the ships of the company from the payment of port dues at the various ports of call. The preceding enumeration of steamships, together with their tonnage and horse power, sufficiently indicates that the fleet of the company is both extensive and well-appointed; but, in further illustration of this important fact, it may be permitted to refer to one or other of their more recently-built steamers, and for this purpose one will suit nearly as well as another. For the purpose of this illustration it may be well to select the Iberia, one of the largest vessels of the fleet. She is of 4671 tons measurement, and is in every respect a steamer of the highest class. She is furnished with compound high and low pressure engines of 750 horse power, nominal, and on her trial trip she showed an average speed of 15 knots an hour. Her passenger accommodation is of the best description, and all her fittings and furnishings are of a class suitable to her general characteristics. The build and contour of this fine ship has been and is greatly admired by nautical critics, her lines both fore and aft being charmingly fine, and such as to indicate celerity of motion combined with ready steering The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. 9 power, and her whole appearance is eminently suggestive of rapid and steady sailing qualities, in which, as in other respects, she sustains the character for style and appearance which in so pre-eminent a degree distinguish the steamers owned by the company under whose flag she sails. While on this subject, it is well to mention that the Chili, one of the company's steamers, which is now thirteen years old, and not one of their most powerful class, or possessed of the latest improvements in her machinery, made the run from Liverpool to Valparaiso (in- cluding stoppages) in 3 1 days 1 5 hours, a rate of speed which has been successfully repeated and maintained by many of the company's steamships, as will be readily substantiated by the following statement. In 1869 the Magellan was delayed in Liverpool 7 days ; after starting, however, she made such a rapid passage that she arrived in Valparaiso within her itin- erary time, thus gaining 7 days in 38. In 1871 the Lusitania ran from Liverpool to Valparaiso in 33 days. An important point in the policy of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company has been, and still is, to have only Britons as commanders, officers, and engineers, in charge of their vessels ; and the complement of these important func- tionaries for even their South American coasting trade, as well as for their Liverpool and Valparaiso trade, are all Britons, their number and efficiency on the distant routes being main- tained by successive relays from this country to supply the places of those who return home, or of whose services the company is deprived by other causes. The company, however, to a moderate extent, avail themselves of the services of natives of the American continent to act as stokers, menial servants, and deck hands, for discharging the duties of which offices they are subjected to suitable training and discipline. For maintaining the efficiency of their extensive coasting- trade the company have established at Callao large engineering and other workshops, fitted with all the requisite apparatus, implements, and tools ; and there they also maintain a large staff of well-trained workmen, the whole being under the immediate direction and control of a superintendent, who receives instructions from the general- manager of the com- pany's affairs in the Pacific, c.ncl who resides at Callao. In these workshops, and by those skilled workmen, the company do io The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. not only the work which is requisite for their own vessels, but also, from time to time, as occasion requires, they execute similar work for British, French, and Spanish ships of war. In connection with their establishments at Callao, Panama, and Valparaiso, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company contributes liberally to the support of schools, and also for the maintenance of clergymen belonging to the established Church of England. The company has also promoted and largely contributed to the formation of a subsidiary company for the construction of an iron floating-dock at Callao. In point of fact, the stock ot this latter company is almost altogether held by the shareholders of the former, and, to afford encouragement to this highly desirable undertaking, the Peruvian Government has accorded all reasonable facilities, and granted exclusive privileges of great value for the period of twenty years from the date of its establishment. Besides the foreign working establishments referred to, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have also constructed large and most commodious engineering and fitting workshops at the Morpeth Dock, at Birkenhead, where they have obtained a permanent loading berth, with a considerable extent of quay and shed accommodation in which to carry on their large and important trade. &r PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. The Company's Fleet consists of the following Magnificent Steamers : TONNAGE. Aconagua 4106 Araucania 3088 Arequipa 1329 Atacaraia 1975 Ayacucho 2200 Britannia 4128 Bolivia 1925 Callao 1062 Chile 1750 Chimborazo ...3846 Colombia 2200 Coquimbo 1975 Cordillera . Cotopaxi.-.. TONNAGE. ....2860 ....4027 3845 TONNAGE. Islay 1587 John Elder 4151 Lig-uria 4666 Lima iftna Eten 1975 OQOQ 2088 3370 I/usitania .. Magellan ..3825 ..2856 Guayaquil . 750 449 1596 . .4670 Pacific .. 2008 Illimani .... HO ....4023 1793 450 Panama Patag-onia .... Payta ..2008 ..2866 ..1800 Iquiq.ue j Peru 1400 Potosi 4218 Quito 800 Santa Rosa ...2000 Santiag-o 1500 Sorata 4013 Supe 432 Tabog-uilla 240 Talca, 700 Truxillo 1500 Valdivia 1975 Valparaiso 3574 LIVERPOOL AND WEST COAST LINE. LIVERPOOL - BORDEAUX - - SANTANDER- - - CORUNNA - CARRIL & VIGO- LISBON J TO fPERNAMBUCO BAHIA. RIO DE JANEIRO. MONTE VIDEO (F ; V S OS VALPARAISO, CALLAO. APPOINTED BY HER MAJESTY'S POSTMASTER GENERAL TO LEAVE LIVERPOOL EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY, BORDEAUX EVERY ALTERNATIVE SATURDAY, LISBON EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY, Every Vessel calling at SANTANDER. COTUTNNA, CARRIL or VIGO. and every alternative Vessel sailing from LISBON to RIO DE JANEIRO DIRECT. RETURNING FROM CALLAO EVERY ALTERNATIVE TUESDAY, VALPARAISO EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY, MONTE VIDEO EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY, RIO DE JANEIRO EVERY ALTERNATIVE MONDAY, IAH1A, every fourth Teursday ; PERNAMBUCO, every fourth Saturday. Passengers carried to and from all Ports en route, and Cargo conveyed under through Bills of Lading to and from all Forts on the West Coast. LOADING BERTH-MORPETH DOCK, BIRKENHEAD. SAILINGS FROM BOTH ENDS EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY. A competent number of Screw and Paddle Steamers are employed on this Line, offering every facili:y for Passengers and Cargo. These Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports : Tambo de Mora, Pisco, Lomas, Chala, Q,uilca, Islay, Mollendo, Ilo, Arica, Pisagna, Mejillones (Peru), Iquique, Pabellon de Pica, Tocopilla, Cobija, Mejillones (Bolivia), Antofag-asta, Ghanaral, Caldera, Carrizal Bajo, Huasco, and Coquimbo. CALLAO & PANAMA LINES. SAILINGS- FROM CALLAO & PANAMA FOUR TIMES A MONTH. In connection with the Semi- Weekly Line between Callao ani Valparaiso and Intermediates, and the Peruvian Coast Lines, Passengers proceeding from Panama to Ports South of Callao are maintained on board during the stay of the Steamer at Callao. 'i hrough Bills of Lading for Cargo and through Passenger Tickets are issued to and from the West Coast and the United States, in connection with the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany and the Panama Railroad Company. ' Through Bills of Lading and Passenger Tickets are also issued in connection with the following Companies to and from Europe and the West Coast, via the Isthmus o( Panama viz., Royal Mail Steam Packet Company ; Hamburg American Steamship Company ; West India and Pacific Steamship Company (Limited) ; Compagnie Generaie Transatlantique ; and to and from Central American Ports in connection with the Pacific Mail Steamship Company. PERDVIANCOAST LINES. I. NORTH SAILINGS. For PIMEJTTEL, EVEEY TUESDAY; For ETEN, EVERY THURSDAY; Per SANTA, EV2EY SATUEDAY, CALLS. These. Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports: Huacho, Supe, Huarmey, Casma, Samanco, Chimbote, Santa, Huanchaco, Malabrigo, and Pacasmayo, And every alternate Thursday a Steamer proceeds to the LOBOS ISLAND. II.-SOTJTH SAILINGS. EVERY MONDAY AND THURSDAY. SEMI-WEEKLY Steamers run between CALLAO and Pisco, calling at CERO AZUL and TAMBO DE MORA. SOUTHERN MAIL STEAMER BETWEEN VALPARAISO AND PORT MONTT SAILINGS- PEOM VALPAEAISO on the 6th, 13th, 21st, and 29th of EVEEY MONTH CALLS. These Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports : SAN ANTONIO, TOME,TALCAHUANO,CORONEL,LOTA,LEBU, CORRAL, ANCUD,(CALBUCO, All kinds of Facilities afforded for the Conveyance of Passengers and Cargo. PRINCIPAL AGENCIES- Antwerp, Messrs. AUG. SCHMITZ & Co. ; Bahia, Messrs. WILSON & Co. ; Bordeaux, Mr. HENRY DAVIS; Callao, Mr. NOEL WEST; Carril, Messrs. BARCENA Y Ho.; Corunna, Messrs. JOSE PASTOR Co.; Glasgow, Messrs. MALCOLMS & Co. ; Guayaquil, Mr. GEORGE CHAMBERS ; Hamburg, Mr. K. XIMU-HK, JUN. ; Havre, Messrs. BURNS & MAC!VER; Lisbon, Messrs. K. PINTO, BASTO & Co.; London, Messrs. N. GRIFFITHS, TATK & SKLBY ; Madrid, Mr. L. RAMIREZ ; Monte Video, Messrs. YARROW, JIKIT Co.; New York, Mr. CHARLKS W. Wi-.sr; Panama, Mr. R. G. DK PARKDES; I'.ris, Mr. GEORGE WATERS; Pernambuco, Messrs. WILSON, Rowrc & Co. ; Rio dc Janeiro, Messrs. E. P. WILSON Co. ; Santander, Mr C. SAINT MARTIN ; Sandy Point, Mr. K. B. SHANKI.IN ; Valparaiso, Mr. JOHN PRAIN; Vigo, Messrs. BARCENA Y Ho. "IIKAD OFFICES, 31, James St., LIVERPOOL > A. M. SAUNDERSON, Secretary. PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. LIVERPOOL &WEST COAST LIKE RATES OF FARES FROM LIVERPOOL, IST CLASS. 2ND ( )LASS. 3RD CLASS. SINGLE RETURN | SINGLE RETURN SINGLE *-\ *- * *. ' 5580 3 3 5 Sa.nts.ndor 7 10 5 Gorunna, Vigo, and Carrii ... Lisbon 10 JO 15 7 10 7 10 11 5 5 Pornambuco, Bahia, & Rio de Janeiro 30 45 20 30 13 Monte Video and Buenos Ay res 35 52 JO 20 30 15 Valparaiso, Arica, I slay, and Callao 75 112 10 50 75 30 Children under Twelve Years, Half-Fare ; under Eight Years, Quarter Fare ; one Child of a Family under Three Years, Free. All Fares are payable in Specie, before embarkation. Female Servants are charged Two-thirds of the First Class Fare, and are berthed in the Ladies' Cabin. Men Servants are charged Second Class Fare, and are berthed in the Second Class Cabin. Berths are not considered to be engaged until the Fare has been paid. Passengers not proceeding after having taken their Passage forfeit half of ihi Passage-Money. Return Tickets (which are issued only to First Class Passengers and their Servants accompanying them, and to Second Class Passengers), are available for twelve calendar months from date of issue. No allowance will be made if the Tickets be not used within that time. Luggage measuring not more than 20 cubic feet is allowed for every Adult Passenger ; any excess is charged 55. per foot to West Coast, and 2s. 6d. per foot to other ports. Dogs are not taken unless in charge of Passengers. The rates are To Bordeaux, 2 ; Lisbon, $ ; Brazil, 4 ; River Plate, $ ; West Coast, i os. each. THE PACIFIC LINE OF TIME TABLE LEAVING LIVERPOOL - Every alternate Wednesday. BORDEAUX - Every alternat3 Saturday. SANTANDER - Every Fourth Sunday. CORUNNA - Every Fourth Men Jay. CABRIL&VIGO Every Fourth Monday. LISBON - - Every alternate Wednesday. IBERIA - - 4671 Tons JOHN ELDER - 4151 Tons- SORATA LIGURIA - - 4666 ACONCAGUA - 4105 GARONNE POTOSI - 4218 COTOPAXI 4027 CHIMBORAZO BRITANNIA - 4189 ILLIMANI - 4022 CUZCO - i . 1 2 1 2 1 "an. 10 "an. 13 an. 13 T .1 2 1 2 L-\-b. 2 Feb. 24 Feb. 24 Mar. 7 Mar.io Mar. 10 M-ir ii 2 Mar. 21 Mar.24 Mar. 24 1 Vpr. 4 \pr. 7 Vpr. 7 2 1 LIVERPOOL... Leave Bordeaux ...{? Santander ...{? Corunna ...{? Carril&Vigo[ e L"bon {? Pernambuco [?e Bahia {T Kio Janeiro { Monte Video{JsS? PuntaArenas{* e e e VALPARAISO Arrive ... ... Jan. 24 Jan. 27 Jan. 27 Feb. 7 Feb. 10 Feb. 10 Apr. 1 8 Apr. 21 Apr. 21 May 2 May ., May s May May o May - May - ... ... ... ... Jan. 15 ... Feb. 12 ... \Iar.i2 Mar.i2 Mar.26 \pr. 9 Vpr. 9 Apr. 23 J >n. 29 Feb. 2- ... jja, 29 in. 16 Jan. 30 an. 17 Jan. 31 Tan. 28 ... "an. 28 ... Feb. 13 Vb. 14 M>. 2S Feb. 25 <'eb. 27 F.-b. 27 Feb. 28 \Iar.i3 vlar.i4 M ir . 25 Mar. 25 M.r.27 Mar.2 7 Mar.2 Vpr. 10 Vpr. n Vpr. 22 Vpr. 22 Vpr. 24 Apr. 24 Apr. 25 May May 21 May 21 Ma v.- May 2' May 3 < May 3 L J'ne .s I'ne :-, J'ne ii. ... ... f'eb 2- >lar. 27 Vpr. 24 Vpr. 27 Apr. 28 vl ay 2 May 3 Mav 8 .lay 8 May 15 May IP May ii May i.- May i<> May 21 May 2. May 28 Feb. 2 Feb. 3 Feb. 7 Feb. 8 Feb. 13 Feb. 13 Feb. 20 Feb. i^ Feb. 16 Feb. 2r Feb. 21 Feb. 26 Feb. 2( Mar. 5 Mar. 2 Mar. 3 Mar. 7 \Iar. 8 \Iar.i 3 \lar.i3 Mar. 20 Mar. 15 Mar. 10 Mar. 20 Mar. 2 1 Mar. 26 Mar .26 Vpr. a May < M.-iv SJ i\luy ib May 22 May 2j May 27 May 28 May 3 1 May 3 June 2 June 2 J'ne i( J 'ne lO J'ne IQ J'ne K J'ne 22 M ir.30 Mar. 31 Vpr. 4 Apr. 5 Vpr. 10 Apr. 10 \pr. 17 Apr. 12 Apr. 13 Apr. 17 Apr. ib Apr. 23 Apr. 23 Apr. 30 ... ... ... ... VALPARAISO Leave PuntaArenas}^;; Montevideo^ 6 Kio Janeiro {j Bahia /f' rive Jan. 3 'jan. 17 Jan. 9 Jan. 23 Jan. 10 Jan. zl Jan. 16 Jan. 30 Jan. 17 Jan. 31 Jan. 21 Feb. 4 Jan. 22 Feb. 5 ... Feb. 8 ... ceb. 8 ... Feb. 10 ... Feb. 10 'Feb. 9 Feb. 24 Feb. 9 Feb. 24 Feb. i2Feb 27 Feb. 12 Feb. 27 ;Fcb. 15 Mar. 2 Jan. 31 Feb. 6 Feb. 7 ?eb. 13 ?eb. 14 F-b. 18 ?eb. 19 Mar. g Mar. o Mar. 12 Ma-. 12 Mar. 1 5 Feb. 14 Feb. 20 Feb. 21 Feb. 27 Feb. 28 Mar. 4 Mar. 5 Mar. 8 Mar. 8 Mar. 10 Mar. 10 Mar. 24 Mar. 2. Mar. 27 .AIar.27 Feb. 28 Mar. ( Mar. 7 Mar i Mar. 14 Mar. i^ Mar. ic Apr. C Apr. (. Apr. r \pr. f Apr. 12 Mar. 14 Mar. 20 Mar. 21 Mar. 27 Mar. 2b A pr. i Apr. 2 Apr. 5 Apr. 5 Apr. 7 Apr. 7 Apr. 21 Apr. 21 \pr. 24 M' r . 2 4 j ^pr. 27 Mar. 28 Apr. 3 Apr. 4 Apr. 10 Apr. ii Apr. 15 Apr. 16 May 4 May 4 May 7 May 7 May jr. Apr. u Apr. 17 Apr. ib Apr. 24 Apr. 25 Apr. 2r Apr. 30 May May ; May J May 1 May i May i Maya May ^ May 2 Vpr. 25 May i May 2 May 8 May 9 May 13 May 14 Juno 1 June i June 4 June 4 June 7 May 23 Mav 2c May jc June 5 June C f uno ir Juneii I'ne 2r J III- 2', fulv 2 July 2 July 5 June t " J'ne 12 J'ne i^ Jne 10 J ne 20 J 'ne 2< J'ne 25 J'ne 28 |'ne 28 J'ne 30 J'"e 3 July 14 July 14 July 17 July 17 July 20 J'ne co I'ne z<> )' 2? July 3 July 4 July 8 July 9 fuly 27 July 27 July 30 July 30 \\IK- 2 Jiy A July 10 July ii Fiily 17 July it July 22 July 23 July 26 Juy 26 July 28 July 28 Autf.ii Aug. ii .W.i.) A.ng.i4 An- 17 J,ly is July 2. fulyji Aug. Aug. s Aug. Aug. 24 Aug. ^4 Aug. 27 Aug. 27 Aug. 30 Cleave Pernambuco {j Lisbon* JJ2JJ Bordeaux .. {- LIVERPOOL ..Arrive * The J'ac\ets may Arrive at Lisbon e irlicr than the time stated in the Table, rmd in such case JNOT^S Evary Steamer takes Carg-o for all Ports on the "West Coast No. 1 calls at Pernambuco andJ on the Outward Voyag-e, but calls at bahia. *OYAL MAIL STEAMERS. -"OB 1877. RETURNING FROM LLLAO - - Every alternate Tuesday, A.LPAHAISO - Every alternate "Wednesday. ONTE VIDEO Every alternate Wednesday. RIO EE JANEIRO Every alternate Monday. BAHIA - - Every Fourth Thursday. PEENAMBUCO - Every Fourth Saturday. - 4013 Tons. GALICIA - 3829Tons. PATAGONIA - 2866 Tons - 3870 LUSITANIA - 3825 CORDILLERA - 2860 3847 VALPARA SO - 3575 MAGELLAN- - 2866 - 3845 ARAUCANIA - 2877 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 iy i6|May 30 J'ne 13 J'ne 27 Tuly ii July 25 Aug. 8 Aug. 22 Sept. 5 Septig Oct. 3 Oct. 17 Oct. 31 Nov. 14 Nov. 28 Dec. 12 Dec. 26 y. 5 iy 19 une 2 une 2 ''ne 16 f'ne 16 r'ne 30 J'ne 30 Iu'y 14 July 28 uly 14 July 2$ Aug,n Aug. ii Aug.25 Aug. 25 Sept. 8 Sept. 8 Sept. 22 Sept.22 Oct. 6 Oct. 6 Oct. 20; Nov. ] Oct. 20 Nov. 3 Mov. 17 Dec. i Nov. 17 Dec. i Dec. 15 Dec. 15 Dec. 29 Dec. 29 une 3 July i July 29 Aug. 26 ... Sept.23 ... Oct. 21 Mov. 18; Dec. 16 ... "'. une 3 ... July i ... July "9 Aug. 26 Sept.23 ... Oct. 21 Nov. 18 D,c. 16 une 4 ... July 2 ... July 30 Aug. 27 ... Sept. 24 ... Oct. 22 Nov. 19 Dec. 17 ... ... une 4 July 2 ... July 3 t, lug. 37 ... Sept.24 ... Oct. 22 ... Nov. 19 Dec. 17 ... ay 21 T'ne 18 ... Tulv 16 Aug. 13 .. Sept.io Oct. 8 ... Nov. 5 ... Dec. 3 ... Dec. 31 ay 21 '.'.'. J'ne 18 ... July 16 Aug. 13 Sept.ii ... Oct. 8 Nov. 5 ... Dec. 3 ~. Dec. 31 1878 ay 22 ay 23 une 51 une o 'ne 19 'ne 20 July 3. ] u ly 17 July 4 July 18 July 31 Aug. i VugiJs Aug. 28 Aug.29 Sept. 1 1 Sept. 1 2 Sept.25 Sept. 26 Oct. 9 Oct. 10 Oct. 23 Oct. 24 Nov. 6 Nov. 7 Nov. 20 Dec. 4 \ T ov. 21 Dec. 5 Dec. i8 : Jan. i Dec. 19 Jan. 2 'ne 17 ... July 15 Aug.) 'ept. 9 Oct. 7 Mov. 4 Dec. 2 Dec. 30 ... July 15 S< pt. 9 Oct. 7 Nov. 4 Dec. 2 Dec. 30 Nov. 6 Dec A 1878 ::.' ne 19 'ne 19 ... July 17 ... Aug.M ... Sept. 1 1 Oct. 9 ... Mov. 6 ... Dec. 4 ... Jan. i !'.'. me 7 me 8 ['ne 22 ['ne 23 July 5 July 6 Julv 20 July 21 Aug. 2 Aug. 3 Aug. 1 7 Aug.ii A.ug.3i Sept 14 Sept 15 Sept.27 Sept.2t Oct. 12 Oct. 1 3 Oct. 25 Oct. 26 Mov. c, Mov. 10 NOV. 22 \OV. 2j Dec. 7 Dec. 20 Dec. 8 Dec. 21 Jan. 4 Jan. 5 Jan. 17 Jan. 18 ne 12 ne 13 J'ne 27 J'ne 28 July 10 July ii Ju'y 25 July 26 Aug. 7Aug.22 Aug. 8 Aug.23 Sept. 4 Sept. 5 Sept.ig S pt.20 Oct. 2 Oct. 3 Oct. 17 Oct. 18 Oct. 30 Oct. 31 Mov 14 Nov. 15 Nov. 27 Nov. 28 Dec 12 Dec. 25 Dec- 13 Dec. 26 Jan. 9 Jan. 22 Jan. lolan. 23 ne 18 ne 18 Ju'y 3 July 3 July 16 July 16 July 31 July 31 Aug.i3|Aug.28 Aug-.i3lAug.28 Septio Sept.io Sept.25 Sept.25 Oct. 8 Oct. 8 Oct. 23 Oct, 23 Nov. 5 Nov. 5 Mov. 20 Aov. 20 Dec. 3 Dec. 3 Dec. 18 Dec. 31 Dec. i8Dcc.3i 1878 Jan. 15 Jam 28 Jan. isjan. 28 ne 25 July 10 July 23 Aug. 7 Aug.20 Sept. 4 Sop^.i Oct. 2 Oct. i^ Oct. 30 Nov. 12 Nov. 27 Dec. 10 Dec, 25 Jan. 7 Jan. 22 Feb. 4 1878 1878 1878 1878 1878 1878 ug. Aug.is Aug.29 Sept.i2 Sept.26'Oct. ic Oct. 2 Nov. 7 Nov.2 Dee. 5 Dec. 19 Jan. 2'Jan. 16 Jan. 30 Feb. 13 Feb. 27 Mar.ij ug. Aug2i Aug. 22 Sept. 4 Sept. 5 Sept.iS Sept. 1 9 Oct. 2 Oct. it Oct. 3 Oct. 17 Oct. 3 Oct. 3 Nov. ii Nov. 14 Nov. 2 Nov.2 Dec. ii Dec. 12 Dec. 25 Dec. 26 1878 Jan. 8 Jan. 9 Jan. 22 Jan. 23 Feb. 5 *Feb. Feb. 19 Feb. 20 Mar. 5 Mar. 6 Mar. 1 9 Mar.20 lug. i Aug. 28 Sept. 1 1 Sept.25 Oct. 9 Oct. 21 Nov. Nov 20 Dec. Dec. if- Jan. Jan. 15 Jan. 29 Feb. 12 Feb. 26>Mar.i2 Mar.26 tug. i Aug.2C, Sept. 12 Sept. 26 Oct. 10 Oct. 24 Nov. Nov. 21 Dec. Dec. 19 Jan. 2 Jan. ib Jan. 30 Feb. 13 Feb. 27 Mar.i3 Mar.27 lug. i lUg. 20 Sept. 2 Sept. 2 Sept 30 Oct. i Oct. 14 Oct if Oct. 2? Oct. 2C. Mov. Nov. \ov.2S Nov.io Dec. Dec. i Dec. 23 Dec. 24 Jan. 6 Jan. Jan. 20 Jan. 21 Feb. 3 Feb. 17 Feb. 4 Feb. 18 Mar. 3 Mar. 4 Mar. 1 7 Mar.iS Mar.3i Apr. i lug. 23 ... Sept 20 Oct. iJ Nov. Dec. i Jan. 10 ... Feb. 7 ... Mar. 7 Apr. 4 ug. 2_; Sept.2c Oct. it Nov. Dec. i Jan. 10 Feb. 7 ... Mar. 7 ... Apr. 4 i u g. 25 Sept. 2: ... Oct. 2C Nov. Dec. i J.in. 12 Feb. 9 Mar. 9 Apr. 6 >ug- 2 5 ... Septa: ... Oct. 2C Nov. . . Dec. i Jan. 12 Feb. 9 ... Mar. 9 ... Apr. 6 1878 iept. * ept. f Sept. 21 Sept. 2 lOct. 6 Oct. i Xov. 3 Nov. it Oct. 6'Oct. 19 Nov. 3JNov. i( Dec. I) C. Dec. 14 Dor. 2 Dec. lAlDec. 2 *u/ u Jan. ii Jan. ii Jan. 26 Jan. 20 Feb. 8 Feb. 8 Feb. 23 - Mar. Feb. 23 Mar. 8 Mar. 23 Apr. 5 Mar.23'Apf. s Apr. 20 Apr. 20 1 1 1878 i iept. 1 1 iept. ii Sept. 2. Sept.2C Oct. 9 Oct. 22 |Oot. g'Oct. 22 Nov. 6 Nov. i Nov. Nov. ir Dec. Dec. Dec. 17 Jan. Dec. 17 Jan. J.in. 14 Jan. i.) Jan. 2 Jan. 29 Feb. ii Feb. 1 1 Feb. 26 Mar. 1 1 Feb. 20 Mar. n i Mar.26 Mar.26 Apr. 8 Apr. 23 Ape. 8 Apr. 23 iept. i.] Sept.27 Oct. 12 Oct. 2; Noy. 9 Nov. 25 Doc. 20] Jan. Jan. 17 Feb. P Feb. T i Mar. i Mar.i4 Mar.29 Apr. n Apr. 26 lie Sailings from Lisbon and Arrival and ]) parturc from Pauillac will be correspondingly earlier. Jahia on the Outward, and at Vigo on he Homeward Voyage. No. 2 runs from Lisbon to Bio JlKECTand Pernambuco on the Voyage Home. THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. LONDON AND THE BRITISH ISLES. An Itinerary Guide FOR TOURISTS, Illustrated with Thirty-eight Maps and Plans. E. G. RAVENSTEIN, F.R.G.S., F.S.S., &c. THOMSON BROTHERS, 120, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY. PAGE 1. Preparations for the Journey ... .. .. . . .. l 2. A Trip through the United Kingdom 3 3. British Railways 6 4. Money, Weights, and Measures 8 LONDON DIRECTORY. 5. Board and Residence .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 10 6. Conveyance Directory .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 16 7. Museums, Public Institutions, Art Collections, and other sights . . . . 22 8. Amusements (Theatres, Concerts, Music Halls, &c.) 32 9. Miscellaneous Addresses and Fixtures (Places of Worship, Societies, Art Galleries, Libraries, Baths, Money Changers, Foreign Ambassadors) . . 38 A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON. 10. Historical Sketch 46 11. Extent and Population . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 12. Streets and Parks 58 13- Public Buildings 64 14. Religious and Charitable Institutions 66 15. Education, Art, and Science 72 16. Commerce and Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 17. Government of London, Public Works .. .. .. .. .. ..78 18. Clubs and Places of Amusement 86 WALKS AND RIDES THROUGH LONDON. 19. How to see London 88 20. A Criss-Cross Track through London .. .. .. .. .. ..92 21. Trafalgar Square to Westminster Abbey 9') 22. Westminster, Chelsea, and Battersea 102 23. The West End Parks 106 24. St. James's .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..114 25. Regent Street, Regent's Park, and Zoological Gardens 124 26. Belgravia, Mayfair, and Tyburnia . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 CONTENTS. PAGE 27. Central London 140 28. Strand and Fleet Street to the Bank 150 29. The Heart of the City 164 30. A Walk through the City 166 31. Queen Victoria Street and the Thames Embankment i;8 32. To the Tower 182 33. Docks, Tunnel .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 190 34. South London 192 35. North-East London and Victoria Park 200 DESCRIPTIONS OF IMPORTANT BUILDINGS AND MUSEUMS. 36. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall . . . . . . . . . . 206 37. Westminster Abbey 210 38. St. Paul's Cathedral 230 39. The Tower of London 234 40. The British Museum 238 41. The Museums in South Kensington .. 246 42. The National Gallery ; 5i THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 43. Woolwich and Greenwich .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 2^3 44. Crystal Palace, Dulwich, and Norwood 262 45. Hampton Court, Richmond, and Kew . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 46. Alexandra Palace, Hampstead, and Highgate 272 47. Windsor and Virginia Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 48. Minor Excursions 278 EXCURSIONS FROM LONDON. 49. Gravesend, Chatham, Rochester 282 50. Oxford 282 51. Brighton 2 36 52. Hastings 290 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND, WALES, SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND. 53. Isle of Wight 290 54. South- Western England 294 55. North of England and Scotland .. .. .. ., .. .. .. 398 56. Mid- England and North Wales .. 314 57. Ireland.. LONDON AND THE BRITISH ISLES. l.-PBEPABATIONS FOB THE JOUBNEY. THE traveller in search of health or amusement requires no further pre- paration for his journey than that, having put his house in order, he should "put money in his purse," so as to be able to meet the claims which will be made upon him at every step he takes. But if travel- ing is to be instructive, it is absolutely necessary that we should know something of the history, literature, and arts, the social and political condition, and the geography of the countries which we are about to visit. The scientific or profes- sional traveller, as a matter of course, carefully prepares himself for his journey, and the tourist too may largely add to his enjoyment by acting in a similar manner. The contemplation of the ruins of by- gone ages will interest him far more if he knows something more of the history of their rise and fall than can be conveyed in a Guide Book, however copious it may be, whilst the institutions of foreign coun- tries can be judged fairly only if we know something of their growth. Need we say, that some knowledge of one's own native country is equally indispensable, in order to enable one fairly to judge other coun- tries. How many are there not who are but very imperfectly acquainted with the resources, the virtues, and failings of their native land, who have never been able to spare the time from business or pleasure to inquire into such subjects, and might frequently be put to shame by an "intelligent foreigner," who has been at some pains to ascertain the truth about them ! Let such travellers beware of forming harsh opinions on what they see abroad ! And to travellers of all classes we say : you must be prepared to sacrifice some comforts to which you have been accus- tomed ; you exchange a home prepared with special reference to your individual wishes for an hotel or inn ; you have to contend with the importunities of guides and showmen, and to accommodate your- self to the manners and customs of a foreign people ; you have to submit to the discomforts of steamers and railroads. But we say, let none of these ruffle your temper. Start with a determination of enjoying yourself, in spite of everything calculated to mar your pleasure, and the money expended will have been expended profitably. TRAVELLING SEASON. This must de- pend to some extent upon the objects which the traveller has in view. London should certainly be visited in May, June, or July ; that is during the " season," when the Queen holds Drawing Rooms and Levees, Parliament is sitting, the principal Art Exhibitions and the Opera Houses are open, and the presence of the fashionable world lends features to the town which are more or less absent during the remainder of the year. Those travellers who take an interest in Horse Racing should manage to be in London on the Derby Day (Wednesday before Whit Sunday), when the most celebrated races of the year take place on Epsom Downs, attracting hundreds of thousands of spectators. Other important races are the Epsom Spring Meeting, on the second Tuesday after Easter, the Craven Meeting at Newmarket on Easter Tuesday, the Spring Meetings at Newmarket on the 2. A TRIP THROUGH THE UNITED KINGDOM. second Thursday and fifth Tuesday after Easter, and the fashionable Ascot Races on the second Tuesday after Whit Sunday. The Hunting Season extends from October to March (the "meets" are ad- vertised in the Field and other news- papers). The Shooting Season extends from the I2th August to the 1st February. Other events of interest, as far as Lon- don is concerned, are the University Boat Race on the Thames, between Putney and Mortlake, on Saturday before Good Fri- day ; the Concert of the Charity Children in St. Paul's on the ist Tuesday in June ; the Cricket Match between Eton and Harrow in July ; the Lord Mayor's Show on the 9th of November ; and the Cattle Show, in Islington, during the second week in December. TRAVELLING EXPENSES naturally de- pend upon the wants of the traveller. Living at first-rate hotels, including at- tendance and all meals, but no wines, costs from 125. to 2os. per day, and this expenditure need not be exceeded if a portion of the meals be taken at a first- class restaurant. In the country the ex- penses are somewhat less. Travellers of more moderate means may find suitable accommodation for about 2 a week. PASSPORT. No passport is asked for on entering or leaving the United King- dom, but subjects of States in which pass- ports are compulsory are required to produce one when calling for a letter at the Poste Restante. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. The only articles upon which Customs duties have to be paid are cigars, tobacco, wines, beer, spirits of all kinds, malt, dried fruit, tea, coffee, vinegar, cocoa, chocolate, chicory, playing cards, gold and silver plate. Travellers are allowed duty free one pint of drinkable spirit, half-pint of liqueur or perfumed spirit, and half-pound of cigars or tobacco. They may likewise import five pounds of cigars or tobacco on pay- ment of 55. 6d. per pound. All other articles liable to duty must pass through the Custom House, and their presence among the traveller's luggage would ex- pose him to vexatious delay and expense. Reprints of books enjoying English copy- right are confiscated. DRESS. We advise all travellers (American especially), to restrict their luggage to what is absolutely necessary during the journey, and to supplement it by purchases made in this country, where most articles usually required by travellers can be supplied at a cheaper rate than anywhere else in Europe. LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION may prove of immense service to a stranger, and if written by friends of influence, are certain to insure the bearer a cordial and hospi- table reception. An introduction to the Ambassador of his country is of value, for it enables the foreigner to obtain access to certain government establishments and private collections which are otherwise closed against him. . A TRIP THROUGH THE UNITED KINGDOM. THERE are travellers, who, immediately after they have landed at Liverpool or some other port, rush up to London, and having spent a week or two there, return to their native land, or cross over to the Continent to taste the cup of pleasure at Paris, or to scale the Alps. London is certainly worth a long journey, but it is not the United Kingdom. Not only are there other towns abounding in interest to the social economist, the art amateur, the historian, and the ordinary tourist, but there is likewise scenery to be met with in many parts of these islands which is quite equal, if not superior, to what may be seen in many parts of Europe, so ardently sought after by the tourist world. What is there in Europe to surpass in solemn grandeur the lochs of Scotland? in loveliness the lakes of Cumberland? What view in Switzerland exceeds in beauty that from Snowdon ? With a view, therefore, of meeting the requirements of those travellers who do not desire to confine themselves to a hur- ried visit, we append some skeleton tours 3.-BRITISH RAILWAYS. tinder the general head of a " Trip through the United Kingdom? The proposed trip extends over fifty days, not including a lengthened stay in London, but as there are rainy days as well as Sundays, it will be as well to allow for ten days of rest. The whole of the routes mentioned are described by us in Part II., and it will be easy to curtail or to expand our plan. EXCURSION TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT. "l. Day. Portsmouth, Ryde, Ventnor. 2. Day. Ventnor to Freshwater. 3. Day. Cowes, Southampton. 4. Day. London. EXCURSION TO SOUTH-WEST OF ENGLAND. 5. Day. Bath, Bristol. 6. Day. Ilfracombe. 7. Day. Plymouth. 8. Day. Exeter. 9.* Day. Salisbury. 10. Day. London. TRIP TO NORTH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 11. Day. London to York, and Newcastle- on-Tyne. 12. Day. Edinburgh. 13. Day. Edinburgh. Excursion to Abbots- ford. 14. Day. Stirling, Callander, Trossachs. 15. Day. Loch Lomond to Glasgow. 1 6. Day. Oban by way of Loch Awe. 17. Day. Excursion to lona and Staffa. 18. Day. Glencoe and Banavie. 19. Day. Caledonian Canal to Inverness. 20. Day. Rail to Aberdeen; or in one day direct to Perth. 21. Day. Up the Dee to Braemar. 22. Day. Blair Athole. 23. Day, Pass of Killiecrankie, Perth, Stir- ling, Glasgow. 24. Day. Carlisle, Keswick. 25. Day. Excursion into Borrodale. 26. Day. Windermere. 27. Day. Liverpool. 28. Day. Manchester, London. MID-ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES. 29. Day. London to Oxford. 30. Day. Warwick, Leamington, Kenil- worth, Coventry. 31. Day. Birmingham. 32. Day. Rail to Ruabon, Llangollen. 33. Day. Chester. 34. Day. Rail to Betws-y-Coed, Capel Curig. 35. Day. Snowdon, Llanberris. 36. Day. Carnarvon, Holyhead. IRELAND. 37. Day. Dublin. 38. Day. Rail to Cork. 39. Day. Cork. Excursion to Blarney. 40. Day. Cork to Dunmanway and Bantry Bay. 41. Day. Bantry, boat to Glengariff; car by way of Kenmare to Killarney. 42. Day. Killarney. Excursions (pass of Dunloe). 43. Day. Rail to Tralee ; car to Tarbert ; boat to Kilrush (or by rail direct from Killarney to Limerick.) 44. Day. Kilrush to Limerick. 45. Day. Limerick to Castle Connel and Killaloe (L. Dergh.) 46. Day. Dublin. 47. Day. Belfast. 48. Day. Giant's Causeway. 49. Day. Back to Belfast. 50. Day. London. 3.-BRITISH RAILWAYS. RAILWAYS cross the country in all direc- tions, and though their management may be inferior in some respects to that of foreign lines, they afford the public more frequent trains and higher speed. The carriages on some lines leave much to be desired. Saloon and sleeping car- riages, however, have recently been intro- duced in connection with most through trains. The Companies are bound by Act of Parliament to dispatch daily a so-called Parliamentary or Government train in each direction, for which the charge must 5 not exceed a penny a mile ; but several of the more important amongst them now find it is their interest to attach 3rd class carriages to most of their express trains, and speed may thus be combined with economy. Return tickets are issued universally, as are also tourist and season tickets Ordinary return tickets are available for two or more days, according to the dis- tance ; but this varies on different lines. Excursion trains convey passengers at very low fares ; but are very crowded, tra- vel slowly, and not otherwise desirable. 6 4.-MONEY, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Foot-warmers are supplied during win- ter. Smoking carriages are attached to each train, and smoking in a compartment not set apart for that purpose involves a fine of 405. Ladies carriages are' to be found in most trains. The tickets are issued up to the time the train starts ; but travellers, especially if they have luggage, should be at the station ten minutes before that time. A list of fares is suspended close to the ticket clerk's window. Tickets aro usually asked for on step- ping upon the platform, and on arrival at the place of destination. Travellers found without a ticket are liable to pay for the whole distance the train has travelled ; and persons making use of a class superior to that for which they have paid, must either pay the difference or are liable to a penalty, in case they are suspected of fraud. LUGGAGE. Every passenger is entitled to the free conveyance of 5olbs. (ist class loolbs.) of luggage. The passenger should see that his luggage is labelled on reach- ing the platform, for the company is liable for loss only if this has been done ; and on reaching his destination he should at once claim his luggage. Unclaimed lug- gage is taken to the cloak room. GRATUITIES. Railway servants are not permitted to accept gratuities, a regula- tion " more honoured in the breach than in the observance." WAITING ROOMS. These are accessible to the general public. RESTAURANTS. Some of these are superior, especially in London. INSURANCE TICKETS are issued to passengers on payment of 2d. or 3d. to the ticket clerk ; but these do not cover accidents caused by the wilful act of the insured. 4.-MONEY, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. No foreign money is received in the United Kingdom, either at railway stations or anywhere else, except at a great loss. The coins in circulation are GOLD. Sov. = 203. Half-sov. = IDS. SILVER. Crown = 55. Half-crown = 2s. 6d. Florin = 2s. Shilling ; Six-penny piece ; Four - penny piece ; and Three-penny piece. BRONZE. Penny, Half -penny, and Farthing (4= id.) Bank of England Notes are taken in payment at all hotels and stations, but require to be endorsed with name and address if so demanded. Scotch and Irish Bank Notes have no currency in England. VALUE OF ENGLISH EXPRESSED IN FOREIGN COINS. American (gold) France, Italy. Switzerland. Belgium Germany. Austria (silver.) Sovereign Shi 'in" 4 clol. 84 cs. 25 frs. 15 cs. 20 ink. 42 pf. 10 florins Penny 2 CS. 10 CS. - ,. Z% pf. ;* : WEIGHTS. loo English Pounds avoirdupois = 45.4 7 I kilogrammes=8i Austrian pounds=9O7 German or Swiss pounds=45'4 Dutch pond = i io'8 Russian pounds = 1067 Swedish skalpund. MEASURES OF LENGTH. I English Foot = 30-48 centimetres = O'97 Austrian feet = I Russian foot = i *oi Swiss feet. loo Statute Miles 160 kilometres = 21-69 German miles = 21-09 Austrian miles 150 Russian versts = 33 ^ Swiss stunden. SQUARE MEASURE. ioo Acres = 40*46? hectares 70-31 Austrian joch= 158-5 old Prussian morgen =37 Russian deshatins = 81-98 Swedish tunnland = 112-4 Swiss juchart. i Square Mile = 2*59 square kilometres, i German square mile = 21*26 English square miles. MEASURES OF CAPACITY. ioo Imperial Quarters = 291 hectolitres = 473 Austrian metzen = 529 Prussian scheflel = 138^ Russian chetwert = 194 Swiss malter. ioo Gallons = 454 litres = 321 Austrian maas = 397 Prussian quart = 36*9 Rus- sian vedro = 303 Swiss maas. 8 ..... ftailwav- Flai I way Station. = tfmnibus.floiifr L O N ID O N 2 Miles. LONDON DIRECTORY. 5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE. Hotels, Apartments, Refreshment Places. HOTELS. The choice of a hotel is of the highest importance to the traveller. If bent merely upon pleasure, one of the numerous VWest End Hotels should be selected ; if engaged in business, a City hotel may answer best ; or if the visit is made for purposes of study, a hotel or boarding-house near the institution which it is proposed to attend, may prove most advantageous. It may be advisable, especially on arriving in the evening, to pass the first night in the terminus hotel. Large hotels are generally provided for the general accommodation of visitors, with a coffee-room, a ladies' coffee-room, a drawing-room, and a smoking-room. Smoking is not allowed except in the saloon appropriated to that purpose. Attendance is now generally charged in the bill. Where this, is not done a gratuity of is. daily should be given. A table tfJiote is met with only in a few instances, and the traveller will generally fare better if he takes his dinner at a restaurant. The following is a list of hotels most conveniently suited for ' travellers, and all of which can be recommended. TERMINUS HOTELS. Charing Cross Hotel (Plan F 6). Bed -room 2s. to 43. 6d. ; double bedded room 33. to los. 6d. ; sitting-room 75. 6d. to los. 6d. Breakfast, 2s. to 33. Table d'hote at 6 o'clock, 6s. Attendance is. 6d. Grosvenor Hold, adjoining the Victoria Sta- tion, Pimlico (Plan E 8). Architect, J. T. Knowles. Same charges. Cannon Street Hold (Plan I 5). Architect, J. Barry. 9 Similar charges. Great Western Hotel, Paddington Station (Plan B 5). Bed 2s. to 6s. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinners, 2s. 6d. Attendance is. 6d. Enston and Victoria Hold, opposite to the Euston Station (Plan F 3). Bed 2s. 6d. to 53. Breakfast 2s. to 3s. Attendance is. 6d. Midland Hotel, Pancras Station, a magnifi- cent pile. Architect, Sir G. Scott. Bed 2s. 6d. to I2s. Breakfast 2s. to 33. 6d. ; table d'hote $s. Attendance is. 3d. to is. 6d. (Plan F 3). Great Northern Railway Hotel (Plan, F 3). International Hotel, London Bridge (Plan 1 6). Bed 2s. to 45. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 33. 6d. WEST END HOTELS. Langham, Portland Place (Plan E 4). Bed 33. to I2s. ; breakfast 2s. to 33. 6d. ; table d'hote at 6 o'clock. 6s. Attendance is. 6d. Nelson's Portland Hotel, Great Portland- street (Plan 4). Bed 2s. 6cl. Breakfast 2s. to 33. 6d. ; dinner 35. Attendance is. 6d. Hatchetfs Hotel, White Horse Cellars, 67, Piccadilly (Plan E 6). Bed 33. Breakfast 2s. 6d. Attendance 2s. Alexandra Hotel, St. George's-place, Hyde Park-corner (Plan D 7), with prospect over Hyde Park. Bed 33. Breakfast 2s. to 33. ; dinner 33. 6d. Attendance is. 6d. Claridge's Hotel, 92, Brook-street, Gros- venor-square (Plan D 5), one of the most aris- tocratic hotels of London. Long's Hotel, 1 6, New Bond-street (Plan 5), , much visited by sportsmen. Bed 35. 6d. < Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 43. 6d. Buckingham Palace Hotel, Buckingham-gale (Plan E 7). Bed 43. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 33. 6d. Attendance 2S. CHARING CROSS. Morley's Hotel, Trafalgar-square (Plan F 6), much frequented by Americans. Bed 33. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 33. 6cl. Hotel Sabloniere, 17, Leicester-square (Plan F 5), a good French house. WESTMINSTER. Westminster Palace Hotel, Victoria-street (Plan F 7). Bed 35. 1o 6s. Breakfast 2s. to 33. ; all meals, a la carte, los. daily. Atten- dance is. 6d. Board and residence for seven days from 4 8s. STRAND AND VICINITY. HaxeWs Exeter Hotel, adjoining Exeter Hall (Plan G 5). Bed 2s. 6d. Breakfast is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Attendance is. Board and lodg- ing los. a day. IO 5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE. Craven Hotel (A. Warner), Craven-street, Strand (Plan F 6). Bed for two persons 35. 6d. Breakfast 2s. to 35. Attendance is- 6d. Caledonian Hotel, Robert-street, Adelphi- terrace (Plan G 6). Bed and breakfast 45. Attendance is. Board (four meals) and resi- dence 73. daily. ArttnJel Hotel, 13, Arundel-street, Strand (Plan G 5). Bed and breakfast 33. 6d. ; board (four meals) and residence 6s. 6d. daily. At- tendance is. Windsor Hotel (M. Grinhold, a German, proprietor), 427, Strand (Plan, G 5). Bed and attendance 35. 6d. Breakfast is. to 2s, ; table d'hote 2s. Royal Sutrey Hotel, 14, Surrey-street, Strand (Plan G 5). Bed 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; breakfast is. 6d. to 2s. ; table d'hote 35. Attendance 6d. Board and residence 425. a week. COVENT GARDEN MARKET (PLAN G 5). Taz-i stock Hotel, Piazza (only for gentlemen). Bed 35. ; breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 35. 6d. Attendance is. 6d. The Old and New Humniums, Richardson's (excellent wines), and others in Covent Garden Market, can all be recommended to bachelors, and charge similar prices. FLEET STREET AND BLACKFRIARS. AnJerton's, 162, Fleet-street (Plan H 5). Bed 2s. ; breakfast is. 6d. ; dinner 2s. Attendance is. Royal Hotel (De Keyser's), Victoria Em- bankment, Blackfriars (Plan H 5). Bed breakfast, and table d'hote and attendance, I2s. to 205. daily. Visitors not partaking of table d'hote are allowed 35. Much frequented by foreigners. SAINT PAUL'S. Cathedral Hotel, 48, St. Paul's Churchyard (Plan 15). Bed 2s. 6d. ; breakfast is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. ; table d'hote at one and five, is. 9d. ; Attendance is. Castle and Falcon, 5, Aldersgate -street, (Plan I 4). Bed 2s. to 35. ; breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 35. 6d. Attendance is. 6d. Queen'' s Hotel (Quartermaine East), adjoin- ing New Post Office, St. Martin's-le-Grand, (Plan I 5). Bed 2s. 6d. ; breakfast 2s. to 25. 6d. ; dinner 2s. 6d. Attendance is FIXSBURY SQUARE. Buckets Hotel (G. Hohly, a German, pro- prietor), Christopher-street (PlanK4). Bed and attendance 2s. 6d. to 35. 6d. ; breakfast is. 6d. to 2s. ; table d'hote 35. THE EAST. Marckmanrfs Hotel, 4, Circus, Minories (Plan L 5). Bed is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. ; meat II breakfast is. 6d. ; table d'hote 2s. Much frequented by masters of German vessels. Knits Hotel, America-square (Plan, L 5). Bed and breakfast 35. to 33. 6d. ; table d'hote 2s. Much frequented by masters of vessels. APARTMENTS. Visitors making a lengthened stay in London, and desirous of economising their means, are recom- mended to take furnished apartments, which can be procured in any part of Lon- don from 2os. upwards a week. Break- fast and tea are always supplied by the landlady at cost price, and other meals are prepared if an arrangement to that effect is made on taking the rooms. Coals and gas are extras, and occasionally a special charge is made for the use of linen and plate. The rent depends mainly upon locality. It is highest in the vicinity of the Clubs and in the West End generally, lowest in the suburbs. In some of the streets lead- ing from the Strand to the Thames Em- bankment, a bedroom with use of breakfast room can be had for about IDS. a week, and as this is a central position, it can be recommended to visitors. Furnished apartments are advertised daily in the papers, and an advertisement either in the Times or the Daily Telegraph, will call forth numerous replies. In taking up one's residence perma- nently, care should be taken to choose a locality suited in all respects, and particu- larly so as regards climate. There are streets, too, which [ought to be avoided, and in all cases the advice of a friend who knows town should be secured. RESTAURANTS. Places at which re- freshments can be procured abound in London. The PUBLIC HOUSES, peculiar to England and her colonies, with their glaring fronts, brilliantly illuminated dur- ing the evening, and the usually not very attractive crowd frequenting the bar, are the most prominent amongst them. They are bound to close at half-past twelve at night (on Saturdays at midnight), and are open on Sundays only betwee% I and 3 and 6 and 1 1, except in the case of travel- lers whom the publican is bound to serve with "reasonable" refreshments at all hours of the day. Some of these public houses are provided with a luncheon-bar, where plain refreshments are served at a 12 5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE. moderate price. As noted for the quality of their beer we may mention : The Horseshoe, adjoining Meux's brew- ery, at the corner of Tottenham Court- road and Oxford-street (Stout). The London Brewery Tap, Upper Thames-street (Stout). The Cock t 201, Fleet-street. Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand (Ale). Vienna Beer Hall, 395, Strand (Vienna Ales). There are a few caffs in the continental style, amongst which the Cafe Royal, 78, Regent Street and Gatti's, Adelaide- street, Strand, are perhaps the best and most conveniently situated. CONFECTIONERS' SHOPS are met with in the main thoroughfares. They supply all kinds of plain refreshments, as also beer and light wines, and are frequented more extensively by ladies. The atten- dants receive no gratuities. The OYSTER SEASON extends from the ist of September to the ist of May. Amongst the numerous oyster shops the following can be recommended (in all of them chops and steaks may be ob- tained) : Rule, 36, Maiden-lane, Strand (Plan G 5). Page, 413, Strand (Plan G 5). H. Prosser, 202, Fleet-street. Knight, 26, Charing Cross. Scott (Sonhammer), 18, Coventry-street, top of Haymarket (Plan F 5). Pimm's, 3, Poultry (Plan I 5). The number of DINING-ROOMS is ex- ceedingly large, and we include in our list only those which are conveniently situated and can be recommended other- wise. It is customary to give the waiter about id. for every shilling expended. The so-called tables d'hote of London dining-rooms are diners a prix Ji.re in the continental sense, and a " dinner off the joint " includes an unlimited supply of meat, with bread, vegetables, and cheese. WEST END. Verrey** 229, Regent-street. Dinner (soup, fish, cut fees, &c.,) 5s. Fine French cookery. Kuhn's Restaurant, 21, Hanover-street, Regent-street. Excellent cuisine, joint is. 6d. Blanchard' f, The Burlington, 169, Regent- street. Dinner (soup, fish, two entries, sweets) 5s. to ;s. 6d. Blanchard's, 5, Beak-street, Regent-street. Dinner (soup or fish, three entrees, joint). 2s. 6d. St. James's Restaurant, 71, Regent-street, and 22, Piccadilly. Dinner (soup and joint) 2s. 6d. ; or, including all the delicacies of the season (with turtle soup) los. 6d. Cafe Royal, 68, Regent-street. Excellent cuisine. Criterion, Piccadilly-circus (Plan, F 5), magnificently fitted up. Table d'hote 33. 6d. Le Diner Parisien 53. Grill-room and American bar. Pall Mall Restaiirant, 14, Regent-street. Rather expensive. As cheaper dining-rooms in this neighbour- hood can be recommended : The Albany, 190, Piccadilly. Joints 8d. Upton's, 30, Coventry-street. Joints 6d. Both these houses have ladies' rooms. STRAND AND VICINITY. Clarence Tavern, 34, Charing- cross. Dinner off the joint is. 6d. (On first floor ; entrance under archway.) Knight's, 26, Charing-cross. Steak is. Adelphi Restaurant, 69, Strand. Grill. Steak is. Excellent wines from is. 6d. a bottle. Vienna Restaurant, 397, Strand. Entrees from lod. Vienna beer ; excellent liqueurs. Simpson's, 103, Strand, one of the oldest and best dining-rooms in London. Dinner off the joint (i to 8 P.M.), 2s. 6d. Up-stairs a coffee, smoking, and chess-room ; also a Ladies' Dining Room. Gaiety Restaurant, 243, Strand, (first floor). Dinner (soup, fish, entree, joints, &c.) 3s. 6cl. ; private dinner 73. 6d. The Albion, 26, Russell-street, opposite Drury-lane Theatre. Dinner off the joint 2s. 6d. Ladies' room. Noted house for suppers. Carr's, 265, Strand. Dinner off the joints. is. 6d. FLEET-STREET. The London, 191, Fleet-street, corner of Chancery-lane. Plain dinner 2s. Wine from 2S. Rainbow, 15, Fleet-street. Dinner off joints 2s. Anderton's, 162, Fleet-street. Moderate prices. HOLBORN. Holborn Restaurant, 218, High Holborn. Table d'hote, 6 to 8. 30 p.m., 33. 6d. A band: plays during these hours. 14 6.-CONV/EYANCE DIRECTORY. CITY. Lake's, 49, Cheapside. Joints yd. Pimm's, 3, Poultry. PurseWs, corner of Cornhill and Finch-lane. Moderate prices. Hall, 32, Bishopsgate-street. Built 1466. Was the Palace of Richard III., and contains the Great Banqueting Hall, Throne, Council Chamber and Mediaeval Room. Dinners and Luncheons of all kinds are served. Three Tuns' Tavern, II, Billingsgate. Fish dinners (ordinary), at I and 4 p.m., is. 6d. 6. CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY. (Railways, Steamers, Omnibus, Post Office Ore.) METROPOLITAN RAILWAYS. Our maps of London and of the envi- rons should be referred to in order to obtain some idea of the Metropolitan lines. Amongst them, that which starts : from Liverpool-street and, describing a wide circle around the most populous parts of London, returns to the Mansion 'House Station (Plan I 5) will most fre- quently prove of service to the traveller. Trains run every few minutes. Return tickets should be asked for whenever the traveller proposes to return to the station from which he departed. The following are the Termini of the Great Railway Companies : Company. Termini. ( Liverpool-st. (Plan K 4) < Fenchurch-st.(PlanK5) King's Cross (Plan G 3) Paddington (Plan B 5) LONDON, BRIGHTON j Victoria (Plan E 8) and AND SOUTH COAST. / London Bdg. (Plan K 6) ( Victoria (Plan E 8) LONDON, CHATHAM, Lud Hm ^ ^ A VT\ T\rtTrT7T> < bom Vidt. (Plan H 5) GREAT EASTERN GREAT NORTHERN GREAT WESTERN AND DOVER. LONDON AND SOUTH WESTERN MIDLAND METROPOLITAN AND METROPOLITAN DIS- TRICTS. NORTH LONDON NORTH WESTERN SOUTH EASTERN Waterloo (Plan H 6) St. Pancras (Plan F 3) From Bishopsgate St. (Plan K 4) to Mansion House (Plan I 5), with stations all round Ldn. Broad-street (Plan K 4) Euston (Plan F 3). SLondon-bdg. (Plan K 6) Cannon -st. (Plan 15). Charing-cross ( Plan F 6) The principal places in the neighbour- j hood of London generally visited from I London, can be reached from the follow- I mg stations : ALEXANDRA PALACE, from King's Cross (Great Northern), Broad-street or Moorgate- street. CRYSTAL PALACE, from London Bridge, Victoria, Moorgate-street, and Ludgate-hill. BLACKHEATH, from Charing-cross, Cannon- street, and London Bridge. EPPING FOREST, from Fenchurch-street or Liverpool-street. GRAVESEND, from Charing-cross, Cannon- street, or London Bridge Stations ; also from Fenchurch-street to Tilbury, thence by steam ferry. GREENWICH, from Charing cross, Cannon- street, and London Bridge ; also from Fen- church-street to North Woolwich, thence by steam ferry. HAMPTON COURT, from Waterloo. KEW AND RICHMOND, from Broad-street, Moorgate-street, Waterloo, Ludgate-hill, Mansion House. RYE HOUSE, from Liverpool-street. ST. ALBANS, from Euston or Pancras. VIRGINIA WATER, from Waterloo or Pad- dington. WINDSOR, from Waterloo or Paddington. Further information will be found in any of the Metropolitan Tinu Tables, sold by all stationers and at railway bookstalls. STEAM BOATS. All tickets are issued on the piers or landing stages. DOWN THE RIVER. i. LOCAL STEAMERS of the London Steamboat Company pass every ten minutes between Chelsea and London Bridge performing the entire journey (five and a quarter miles) in fron* forty to sixty minutes. Fares, id. to 4d. They call at the following piers : Chelsea (Bat- tersea Bridge), Cadogan (Albert Bridge), Battersea Park Railway pier (Chelsea Bridge), Pimlico, Nine Elms, Vauxhall, Lambeth, Westminster, Charing Cross, 16 6. -CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY. Waterloo, Temple, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, London Bridge. At St. Paul's Pier, pas- sengers, desirous of going to the Surrey (Southern) side of London Bridge, change to another steamer. 2. GREENWICH AND WOOLWICH, ('Woolwich Steam Packet Company). Every half hour from 8.10 a.m. (8.40 in winter), to dusk, from Westminster Bridge, performing the journey, six and half miles, in one hour to one hour and a half. Fare, 6d. An express boat leaves Westminster at intervals from 8.10 a.m. during summer, calling at Charing Cross and London Bridge, but not at intermediate piers. The piers below London Bridge are : Cherry Gardens, Tunnel, Limehouse, Commercial Docks, Millwall, Greenwich, Cubitt Town, Blackwall, Charlton, and Woolwich. 3. GRAVESEND AND SHEERNESS, week days and Sundays at 9, 10, 10.30, and 11.30 a.m., from Westminster Bridge, call- ing half an hour later at London Bridge, and at 3 p.m. from London Bridge (to Gravesend only). Extra boats for Gravesend only, leave London Bridge at 9.10 a.m., and 3.30 p.m. The last return boat leaves Sheerness at 4.15, Gravesend at 7 p.m. Distances from London Bridge : Green- wich, 4^ miles : Woolwich, 9 ; Gravesend, 26% ; Southend, 43 ; Sheerness, 45 miles. The journey to Gravesend occupies two and a half hours, to Sheerness four and a quarter to five hours. Fares to Graves- end, is. or is. 4d. ; to Southend or Sheer- ness, is. 8d. or 2s. 3d. 4. MARGATE AND RAMSGATE, daily j during the summer months, at 10 a.m., from Fresh Wharf, below London Bridge. Fares, 45, 6d. UP THE RIVER. 5. KEW, weekdays and Sundays from Whitsuntide to the end of September, every half hour from 1 1 a.m. to 5 p.m., from Chelsea, calling at Wandsworth, Putney (and Fulham), Hammersmith, ' Chiswick, Barnes, Mortlake, and Kew, and performing the journey (13 miles), in from forty minutes to one hour. The steamers return every half hour from noon to dusk. 6. RICHMOND AND HAMPTON COURT, Sundays and Mondays, from May to September, at 10 a.m., from the Old Swan Pier, London Bridge, calling at Charing Cross about 10.15, performing the journey to Richmond in from one and three-quar- ters to two and a half hours, that to Hamp- ton Court in two and half to three and half hours, according to the state of the tide. Fare, is. 6d. Return, 2s. 6d. Halting places above Kew : Isleworth, Richmond, Twickenham, Teddington, Kingston, Thames Ditton, and Hampton Court. Ocean Steamers. Lines of regular steamers connect London with the following British and Foreign Ports : Aberdeen, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Belfast (via Plymouth), Bordeaux, Boulogne, Bremen, Buenos Ayres, Calais, Christiania, Copen- hagen, Cork, Constantinople, Dublin, Dundee, Dunkirk, Edinburgh, Falmouth, Genoa, &c., Hamburg, Harlingen, Havre, Hull, Lisbon, Liverpool, Marseilles, Newcastle, Odessa, Oporto, Ostend, Plymouth, Portsmouth, Rio de Janeiro, Rotterdam, St. Petersburg, Scar- borough, Shields, Southampton, Stockton-on- Tees, Sunderland, Yarmouth. TRAMWAYS AND OMNIBUS. On our General Plan of London all those streets which are traversed by tram cars or omnibuses are marked boldly. Our readers will observe that the prin- cipal nuclei of this traffic are Charing- cross (Plan F 6), and the Bank (Plan K 5), and next to these Piccadilly Circus (Plan F6), Oxford Circus (Plan E 5), King's Cross (Plan G 3), the Angel (Plan H 2), London Bridge (Plan K 6), and the Elephant and Castle (Plan H 8). At either of these points omnibuses for most parts of London can be obtained, and a policeman will generally be close at hand to give the information that may be desired. An enumeration of the many omnibus and tramway lines (there are close upon an hundred) would prove quite useless to a stranger remaining but a few days in London ; for even natives of London feel embarrassed when they leave the usual tract which takes them to and from their 1 8 G.-CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY. business. We therefore limit ourselves to the following : 1. The destination of an omnibus is frequently painted upon it in large letters, thus : BRIXTON. 2. On entering an omnibus name the place where you wish to be put down to the conductor, and pay some time before you have reached it (the usual fare for short distances is 2d., and even for the longest, it hardly ever exceeds 6d.) 3. Never leave a tramcar before it has stopped, and an omnibus only if you have acquired the knack of doing so, and the streets are not slippery. 4. Take your seat next to the driver. He will be able to point out to you any buildings of interest. 5. Property left -in an omnibus or car is required to be taken to Scotland Yard Police Station, where it should be en- quired for. COACHES. The old coaching days have been made to return by a company of gentlemen. No more enjoyable and exhilarating mode of seeing the environs of London can be imagined than a ride on one of these coaches, which travel at the rate of eight miles an hour. $&* Places should be booked in ad- vance. A box-seat is charged 2s. 6d. extra for each journey. Ttte coaches do not run on Sundays. The coaches start from HatchetCs (White Horse Cellar), an old coaching inn in Piccadilly, as follows : WINDSOR, 10.45 a - m - in 2 hours 5 min -> for 8s., returning at 3 p.m. Virginia Water, all week days at 10 a.m. (via Kew, Richmond, and Sunbury,) in 3 hours, for 75. 6d. tfS~ There is plenty of time for travellers to walk from Virginia Water to Windsor, in order to return thence to London by coach. Places should be booked in advance. Tuttbridge Wells (via Sevenoaks), at IO a.m. in 4 hours, for us., returning at 3 p.m. Brighton, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 10.45 a.m., hi 64- hours for I2s., return on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Dorking, at 10.30 a.m., in 2'| hours, for 53., returning at 4 p.m. HACKNEY CARRIAGES. There are two kinds four-wheeled cabs and two-wheeled cabs, or " Hansoms, "named 19 thus after their inventor. The latter are far preferable where comfort and speed are a consideration. The hiring is either by distance or by time, as may be expressed on taking the cab. Fares within a radius of four miles from Charing Cross, 6d. a mile, but no fare to be less than is. ; or 2s. ("'Hansoms" 2s. 6d.) an hour, and 6d. (8d.) for every quarter of an hour beyond the first hour. If hired beyond the -four mile radius, is. a mile or 2s. 6d. an hour. If hired within the radius but discharged beyond it. For each mile within the four-mile radius, 6d. ; for each mile or portion of a mile } beyond it, -is. Extra Payments. For every package carried I outside the cab, 2d. For each person beyond j two, 6d. Keeping a cab waiting, 6d. (" Han- som" 8d.) for every quarter of ari hour. Miscellaneous. Drivers are required by law to deliver to the hirer a ticket bearing his number, &c., but this rule is scarcely ever ad- hered to, and a demand for a ticket is generally treated by '* ca"bby " as an insult. No cabman is compelled to drive more than six miles an hour. The fares in London are | the same during day and night. j In case of imposition you may order the driver to take you to the nearest police station, or you take his number and summon him. Property left in cabs should be inquired after at the police station in Scotland Yard (Plan F 6) In case of its being recovered, the driver is entitled to a gratuity at. the rate of about 33. in the . jgg Our plan being divided into quarter- mile squares, will enable travellers roughly to estimate the distances. PRIVATE CARRIAGES. Private carriages or flies may be pro- cured at many hotels and at numerous livery stables throughout London. They are far preferable to cabs for sight-seeing. The usual charge is 2 is. a day of eight hours, or 53. for the first hour and 2s. 6d. for every hour afterwards. The coachman receives a gratuity in addition. POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS. POSTAGE INLAND. Letters, id. an oz., i}4d. for 2 oz., and l / 2 &. for eVery additional 2 oz. up to 12 oz. Letters heavier than 12 oz. pay id. each oz. News- papers, }4d. Book parcels, }4d. for 2 oz. Post cards, >d. POSTAGE, FOREIGN (Europe, United States, and all other countries belonging 20 7. -MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS &c. to the Postal Union). Letters %. oz. for 2}4d. Newspapers, 4 oz. for id. Book packets, 2 oz. for id. Post cards, iXd. POSTE RESTANTE. Letters, "to be called for," may be addressed only to the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le-grand (Plan I 5) or to the Charing Cross Post Office. Letters of this kind which are addressed to other post offices, or by ini- tials, or fictitious names, are at once returned to the head office. The Poste Restante is open between 9 and 5, and all persons applying for letters must be prepared to give the necessary particulars to the clerk on duty, and pass- ports must be produced by subjects of States where they are compulsory. LETTERS FOR PASSENGERS ON BOARD MAIL STEAMERS. -Letters for passengers on board the Atlantic Steam Packets, touching at Queenstown, or on board the Mediterranean Packets, sailing from Southampton, may be posted up to the time at which ordinary registered letters to go by the same packet are to be re- ceived. They must be registered and addressed to the Commander of the packet. Letters for passengers on board the Canadian Packets calling at Londonderry, should be addressed to the care of the officer in charge of the mails. MONEY ORDERS are issued on most countries in Europe, on all British Colo- nies, on the United States, c. TIMES FOR POSTING. Letters for the evening mails may be posted in pillar boxes and receiving houses up to 5 or 5.30 p.m., at the eight District Offices, at the Branch Offices in Lombard Street and Charing Cross, and at the Chief Office, St. Martin's-le-grand, up to 6 o'clock, at the usual rate, and up to 7.15 on payment of a " late fee." TELEGRAMS. The charge for telegrams throughput the United Kingdom is is. for the first twenty words, and 3d. for every additional five words, the names and addresses not being counted. They must be prepaid by stamps. The seven District Offices are open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 1 p.m., the minor Offices, as a rule, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. on week days. The following offices are open day and night throughout the year : Central Telegraph Station, St. Martin's- le-Grand. Moorgate Street Buildings, City (Plan 15). Paddington, Pancras, and Victoria Stations. West Strand (Plan F 6). PARCELS' DELIVERY Is attended to by several Companies, who have receiving houses in the princi- pal thoroughfares. Parcels for foreign parts are forwarded by the Continental Daily Parcels' Express, 33, Gracechurch Street, 34, Regent Circus, 33, St. Paul's Churchyard, and 156, Leadenhall Street. COMMISSIONAIRES. They wear a distinctive uniform (green tunic, and grey trousers), and can be trusted. Most of them are old soldiers. The charge for a message is 2d. for half a mile, 3d. for a mile. In the City, Boy messengers, likewise in uniform,, may be secured sometimes. 7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, AUT COLLECTIONS AND OTHER SIGHTS. r^" WE advise the reader to mark with red pencil those amongst the following institutions which he desires to visit in preference, and to affix a similar mark to them on the plan and description. Institutions which every visitor should see, are distinguished by an asterisk (*). In all those instances in which an art gallery, &c. can be seen only by permission of the 21 owner, steps should be taken to obtain the requisite authority immediately on reaching London. Scientific men will be courteously admitted to any of the scientific collections mentioned below on personal application. None of the places mentioned below are open on Sundays, except when expressly stated. 22 7.-MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c. ALEXANDRA PALACE, Muswell Hill. Daily. ANATOMICAL MUSEUMS, see Guy's, King's College, St. Thomas's Hospitals,, &c. ANTIQUARIES, Museum of Society of, Burlington House (Plan E 6), daily, 10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10 to 2. Closed in Septem- ber. On application to Secretary. AQUARIUM "(Royal) and Winter Gar- den, Tothill-street, Westminster (Plan F 7) See also Crystal Palace. ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM, 18, Tufton- street, Westminster (Plan 7). Daily, 10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10 to 6.30 ; Monday, Wednesday, and Friday also 7 to 9. Closed in August. Admission, 6d. Of interest at most to architects and en- gineers. ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM (Museum | of Building Appliances), 9, Conduit | Street, Bond Street (Plan E 5). Pro- ! perty of the Architectural Society. Apply j for permission. ARMOURERS' HALL, 81, Coleman Street (Plan I 5). Collection of ancient armour. Apply to doorkeeper. Gratuity. ARTS, Society of, 18, John Street, Adelphi (Plan G 6). Paintings by Barry. Daily, 10 to 4, by member's order or gra- tuity. BANK OF ENGLAND (Plan K 5). Public business rooms x daily, 10 to 5. Weighing rooms, ;c., only by order of a Director. BARBERS' HALL, Monkwell Street, (Plan N 4). * Holbein's Henry VIII. Daily, 12 to I. Gratuity. BARCLAY AND PERKINS'S BREWERY, Park Street, Borough (Plan I 6), daily, 9 to 5, on presentation of card at entrance. Gratuity. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL (Saint), Smithfield (Plan I 4). Anatomical Museum, daily, 10 to 4, on application to Secretary. BAZAARS. Soho Bazaar, 4, Soho Square (Plan F 5), most interesting. Most favourable time 4 to 5 p.m. BETHNAL GREEN MUSEUM (Plan M 3), on same conditions as South Ken- sington Museum, which see. * BILLINGSGATE FISH-MARKET (Plan K 6), at 5 in the morning. BOTANICAL GARDENS, Kew. On week days from I to sunset, on Sundays from 2 to sunset. Free. BOTANICAL GARDENS, Regents' Park, (Plan D 3). Daily 7 to sunset, by mem- ber's order, and on certain fete days on payment. * BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, Cleveland Place, (Plan E 6). Collection of 350 paintings. The property of the Earl of Ellesmere. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 10 to 4, by cards to be ob- tained from Messrs. Smiths', 137, New Bond Street, (Plan E 5). * BRITISH MUSEUM, (Plan F 4). Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 10 to 4 (in December, January, and Feb- urary), 10 to 5 (March, April, September, October), 10 to 6 (May to August). Also on Saturdays from 12 to the usual hour of closing, and from 8th May to middle of August till 8 o'clock in the evening. During Easter, Whitsun, and Christmas weeks the Museum is open daily. Closed on the first seven days in January, May, and September. The Reading Room is open daily from 9 to 5, or 6, by Tickets of admission to be obtained at the Museum. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, (Plan E 7). By order of Lord Chamberlain, Stable Yard, St. James's Palace, (Plan E 6). CARPENTERS' HALL, 68, London Wall, (Plan K 5). Paintings in distemper of the time of Edward IV. Saturday after 2 best time. Gratuity. CEMETERIES, open daily, 9 to 5 ; Sun- days, i to 7. Kensal Green and Highgate most deserving a visit. CHELSEA HOSPITAL (Plan D 9), daily, 10 to 12.45, J 45 to 7- Gratuity. CHRIST'S HOSPITAL (Plan I 5). Paint- ings ; daily on application to secretary. Boys at supper, Sundays during Lent. Governor's order. CHRISTY COLLECTION, 103, Victoria Street (Plan F 7). Antiquities, gems, &c. Fridays, 10 to 4 by ticket, issued gratuitously at British Museum, CHURCHES. Mostly dosed except during divine service. (See p.p. 37-39. CHARTiER HOUSE (Plan I 4). Apply to lodge keeper. Gratuity. CLUBS. Admission only by introduc- tion of a member. 24 7.-MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c. CITY MUSEUM AND LIBRARY (Plan I 5), daily, 10 to 4 or 5. Free. COAL EXCHANGE, 96 Lower Thames- street (Plan K 6), daily. Market days, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 12 to 2. The Roman bath is only shown on the three other days of the week, 10 to I, on payment of a gratuity. *COBHAM HALL, near Gravescnd. Valu- able collection of paintings. Fridays, 1 1 to 4, by tickets issued at Caddel's library, King-street, Gravesend, on payment of is., which is devoted to charitable purposes. CORN EXCHANGE, Mark-lane (Plan K 5), daily, n to 3 ; Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, are the most busy days. COVENT GARDEN MARKET (Plan G 5), Saturdays ; early morning the best time. ^CRYSTAL PALACE, Sydenham. Daily. CUSTOM HOUSE (Plan K 6), Long Room, daily, 10 to 4. DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY, daily, except Fridays, 10 to 5. ENTOMOLOGICAL MUSEUM, 12, Bedford- row (Plan G 4), Mondays, 2 to 7. Apply to secretary, Entomological Society. ^FOUNDLING HOSPITAL (Plan G 4), Mondays, 10 to 4, and after morning ser- vice on Sundays ; begin at n. A plate is presented to visitors on leaving. FISHMONGERS' HALL, London Bridge (Plan K 6), daily, 10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10 to 2, on presentation of visiting card. FOREIGN OFFICE (Plan F 6, 7), Fri- days, 12 to 3 ; apply to hall-keeper. ^GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, Jermyn-street (Plan E 6), Monday and Saturday, 10 to 10 ; Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, jo to 4 or 5 ; closed from loth August to joth September. GOLDSMITHS' HALL, Foster-lane (Plan I 5). daily, 10 to 4 or 5 ; Saturdays, 10 to 2, on written application. Gratuity. GREENWICH HOSPITAL. Painted hall and chapel, daily, 10 to 7 (during winter, 10 to 3), and Sundays after I p.m. Col- lection of Ships' Models, daily, Friday and Sunday excepted, 10 to 4. *GROSVENOR HOUSE, Upper Grosvenor- street (Plan D 5), Thursday, 2 to 5, May to July, by permission of the Duke of Westminster. *GUILDHALL (Plan I 5), daily, 8 to 5 ; museum, 10 to 4 or 5. Closed 6th to I2th November. GUY'S HOSPITAL (Plan K 6). Ana- tomical museum, daily, 10 to 4, on appli- cation to the secretary. ^HAMPTON COURT PALACE, daily, Fri- day excepted, 10 to 6 ; Sunday, 2 to 6. HERALDS' COLLEGE, Queen Victoria- street (Plan I 5), daily, 10 to 4. ^HERTFORD HOUSE, Manchester-scuiare (Plan D 5). Sir R. Wallace's collection of paintings ; by permission of owner. HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, South Kensington (Plan B 7), daily, 9 to sunset. Admission is. ; Mondays, 6d. On Sunday only by member's order. A band on Saturday afternoons. HOSPITALS. Medical men will be per- mitted to inspect the hospitals on appli- cation to the house surgeon. HYDE PARK, Rotten-row, daily 12 to 2 and 3 to 7 being the best hours during the season. INDIA MUSEUM, South Kensington (Plan B 7). Daily, 10 to 4. Admission id., Wednesdays and Thursdays 6d. JAMES' PALACE, ST. (Plan F 6). Sunday service in chapel, 10, free ; between, 12 and 5.30, by permission of Lord Chamberlain. Mounting guard, with band, daily (in- cluding Sunday) at 12.45. KENSINGTON GARDENS (Plan B 6), 5.30 to 6.30 p.m. in May and June. Band, Tuesdays and Fridays, 4 to 7. KENSINGTON MUSEUM. (See South Kensington Museum.) KEW GARDENS. Week days, 10 to sun- set ; Sundays, 2 to sunset. Free. KING'S COLLEGE, 120, Strand (Plan G 5). Museum, daily, 10 to 4 ; Satur- days, 10 to 2. Apply to hall-keeper. KNOLE PARK, near Sevenoaks. Park open to public, but the fine collection of paintings shown by permission of owner. LAMBETH PALACE, (Plan G 8). On application to chaplain of Archbishop of Canterbury. The library is open when the Court of Arches sits there. MISSIONARIES' MUSEUM, 8, Bloom- field Street (Plan K 4). Daily, 10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10 to 2. MINT (Plan L 6). On application to Deputy Master of Mint. MANSION HOUSE (Plan K 5). Daily, 10 to 4, or 5. Gratuity. MEAT MARKET, Smithfield (Plan H 4). Daily, early in morning. 26 7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c. MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL, 30, Threadneedle Street (Plan K 5). Daily, jo to 6 ; Saturday, 10 to 2. By order of the Master, to be personally applied for at Hall. METROPOLITAN CATTLE Market (Plan G i). Mondays, early. * MONUMENT (Plan K 5). Daily, Sundays cxcepted, 3d. MUSEUM OF BUILDING Appliances. (See Architectural Museum. See also Anatomical, Antiquaries, British, City, Entomological, Geological, India, Mis- sionaries', Soane's, South Kensington, Surgeons' Museums.) * NATIONAL GALLERY (Plan F 6). Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 10 to 4, or 5. Closed in Oct. Free. NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, South Kensington (Plan B 7). Same as South Kensington Musuem,but never after 6 p.m. NEWGATE PRISON (Plan H-5). Tues- day, Wednesday, and Friday, 1 1 to 3, by order of Home Secretary, Lord Mayor, or Magistrate. No admission during sittings of Central Criminal Court. PATENT OFFICE MUSEUM. Same as South Kensington Museum. PAINTERS' HALL, 9, Little Trinity Lane (Plan I 5). Curious pictures. Daily, 1 1 to 2. Gratuity. PARLIAMENT. See Westminster Pa- lace. POST OFFICE, St. Martin's-le-Grand (Plan I 5). Busiest time, Fridays, 5 to 6 p.m. * PAUL'S, ST. (Plan I 5). 7.45 a.m. to dusk, except Sundays. Daily service. PRISONS, CONVICT, by permission of Col. Du Cane, Surveyor-General, 44, Parliament Street, S.W. RECORD OFFICE, Chancery Lane (Plan H 5). Daily, n to 4. Apply to door-keeper. ROYAL ACADEMY, Burlington House (Plan E 6). Exhibition of paintings by modern masters, May to July ; by old masters, in winter. For diploma paint- ings of Royal Academicians, apply to Keeper. ROYAL EXCHANGE (Plan K 5), closed 5 minutes to 4 p.m. Busiest days, Tues- days and Fridays, 2 to 3 p.m. ROYAL INSTITUTION, 21, Albemarle 27 Street (Plan E 6), museum, daily by mem- ber's order only. SOANE'S MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields (Plan G 5), Wednesday, Thursday ! and Friday, from April to June ; Wednes- day in February, March, July, and Au- gust, ii to 5. Apply to hall-keeper. No gratuity. *SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM (Plan B 7), Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 10 to 10, free ; Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 10 to 4, 5 or 6, according to season, 6d. STAFFORD HOUSE (Plan E 6), by per- mission of Duke of Sutherland. STOCK EXCHANGE (Plan K 5). Visitors not admitted. SURGEONS' MUSEUM, 40, Lincoln's Inn Fields (Plan G 5), Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 12 to 5 (closed in September), by written order of a medi- cal man, or on application. TEMPLE CHURCH (Plan H 5), daily, 10 to 12, and I to 4. Gratuity. Service. TIMES PRINTING OFFICE, Printing House Square (Plan H 5), by application to manager, enclosing address card, best time, i p.m. TOWER (Plan L 6),, daily, 10 to 4. Ad- mission, 6d. Monday and Saturday, free. UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, White- hall (Plan F 6), daily, except Fridays, 1 1 to 5. By order of a member, or on appli- tion to secretary. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Gower Street (Plan F 3), Flaxman Museum, Saturday, 10 to 4, from May to August, on applica- tion to gate-keeper. ^WESTMINSTER ABBEY (PlanF 7), daily, 9 to 6 (winter 4). Admission to chapels, 6cl. (Monday, 11 to 2.30, Free). Choral service daily, 1 1 and 3. ^WESTMINSTER PALACE, or Houses of Parliament (Plan F 7), Saturdays 10 to 4, free. During the recess, admission may be obtained on other days (gratuity.) The lobby, as well as the House of Lords, when sitting as a Court of Appeal, are open at all times. Admission to gallery of House of Commons, by order of a member. WHITEHALL CHAPEL (Plan F 6), during service, at n and 3, Sundays ; or on application to chapel-keeper. ^WINDSOR CASTLE, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 1 1 to 4, by ticket 28 7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c. issued at Colnaghi's, 14, Pall Mall, East, or at the Lord Chamberlain's office, Stable Yard, St. James's Palace, and at Windsor. WILLIS'S ROOMS (Plan E 6), (Sir Joshua Reynolds' paintings), King Street. Daily, Gratuity. WOOLWICH ARSENAL, Tuesday and Thursday, 10 to 4 p.m. Foreigners must procure an order through their ambas- sador. WOOLWICH REPOSITORY, daily, 10 to 5. YORK COLUMN, Waterloo Place (Plan F 6), May to September, 10 to 4 p.m., 6d. ^ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent's Park, daily, 9 to sunset, is. Monday, 6d. On Sundays, by member's order. SUMMARY, ARRANGED ACCORDING TO DAYS. OPEN ox EVERY WEEK-DAY. Alexandra Palace. Aquarium, Westminster. Architec- tural Museums, 10 to 4. Anatomical Mu- seum, 10 to 4. Armourers' Hall. Society of Arts. Bank of England. Barber's Hall. Barclay and Perkins's Brewery. Bazaars (4 to 5> best time). Bethnal Green Museum. Billingsgate Market, 5 in morning. Bo- tanical Gardens, Kew, I to sunset. Botanical Gardens, Regent's Park (by order only). Carpenters' Hall. Cemeteries, 9 to 5. Charter House. Chelsea Hospital, 10 to 12.45, 1-45 to 7- Christ's Hospital. City Museum and Library, 10 to 4 or 5. Coal Exchange and Roman Bath. Corn Exchange II to 3. Crystal Palace. Custom House. ; Fishmongers' Hall. Goldsmiths' Hall. Greenwich Hospital, 10 to 7 (Winter, 10 to 3) ' (Ships' models not shown on Fridays). Guild- Shall. Horticultural Society's Gardens, 9 to sunset. Hyde Park, from 12 to 2, from 3 to 7. ! India Museum, 10 to 4. St. James's I Palace, mounting guard, 12.45. King's Col-. I lege Museum. Missionaries' Museum. Man- ision House. Meat Market, Srnithfield, early morning. Monument. National Portrait Gallery, loto 4, 5, or 6. Painters' Hall, u to 2. Patent Office Museum. St. Paul's. South Kensington Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6, Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 10 to 10. Record Office, 11 to 5. Royal Academy Exhibition. Temple Church, 10 to 4. Times Office, I p.m. Tower, ro to 4. Westminister Abbey, 9 to 6. Whitehall Chapel. Willie's Rooms. Woolwich Repos- itory, 10 to 5. York Column, 10 to 4. Zoological Gardens, 9 to sunset. ON ALL WEEK-DAYS, FRIDAY EXCEPTED. Dulwich Gallery, 10 to 5. Geological Museum, 10 to 4 or 5 (Monday and Saturday, 10 to 10). Ships' Models at Greenwich, IO to 4. Hampton Court, 10 to 6. United Service Museum, 1 1 to 5. MONDAY. British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2. Corn Exchange, u to 3. Entomological Museum, 2 to 7- Foundling Hospital, 10 to 4. Tattersall's Horse Sale, 12 to 4. Metropolitan Cattle Market, early. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5- Surgeons' Museum, 12 to 5. Windsor Castle, II to 4. Police Court, Bow Street, 10 a.m. TUESDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 to 4. Covent Garden Market, 6 to 7 a.m. Ken- sington. Gardens (band), 4 to 7. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5. Royal Exchange, 12 to 3. Surgeons' Museum, 12 to 5. Windsor Castle, II to 4. Woolwich Arsenal, 10 to 4. WEDNESDAY. British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2. Corn Ex- change, II to 3. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5. Soane's Museum, n to 5. Surgeon's Museum, 12 to 5. THURSDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 104. Covent Garden Market, 6 to 7 a.m. Gros- venor House. Soane's Museum, 1 1 to 5 (April to June only). Surgeon's Museum, 12 to 5. Windsor Castle, II to 4. FRIDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 to 4. British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. Christy Collection, 10 to 4. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2. Cobham Hall, II to 4. Corn Exchange, II to 3. Foreign Office, 12 to 3. Kensington Gardens (band), 4 to 7. General Post Office, 5 to 6. Royal Exchange, 2 to 3. Soane's Museum, n to 5 (April to June only). Wind- sor Castle, II to 4. SATURDAY. British Museum, 12 to 4, 5, 6, or 8. Carpenters' Hall, after 2. Covent Garden Market, early in morning. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5. University College (Flaxman Museum), 10 to 4. Westminster Palace (Houses of Parliament), 10 to 4. Whitechapel, or New Cut, in evening. SUNDAY. Aquarium, Brighton. Botanical Gardens, Kew, 2 to sunset. Cemeteries, I to 7- Foundling Hospital, n. Greenwich Hospital, I to 7 (except Collection of Ships' Models). Hampton Court Palace, 2 to 6. Whitehall Chapel, n to 3. Regent's Park, Victoria, or Battersea Park, band, 5 to 8 p.m. 8.-AMUSEMENTS. THEATRES. There are 43 theatres in London, and few even Londoners have paid a visit to every one of them. The stranger will be limited, as a matter of course, to a few visits, and we therefore only enumerate those theatres which are deserving of his attention. The programmes published in the daily papers, and the names of the dramatic authors or actors, may direct the choice as far as the West End theatres are concerned, but we advise the stranger to pay also a flying visit to one or the other of the people's houses enumerated below. tig" Places may be secured at the box office, between 10 and 5, on payment in some instances of is. extra. It is advisable to purchase the ticket several days in advance, if there is a run upon a piece. Places in the pit are never reserved, and those who come earliest secure the best seats. Full Dress is enforced only in the opera- houses during the season, and even there visitors to the amphitheatre and gallery are admitted in ordinary walking costume. In all other houses gentlemen may take their great --coats, umbrellas, &c., even into stalls or boxes. Ladies are obliged to take off their bonnets in the stalls, dress circles, and fre- quently also in the upper boxes ; and as the ladies' cloak rooms are generally most inconvenient places, it is advisable to come to the theatre in a cab, or to remove the bonnet on entering trie vestibule. Play Bills are sold in the theatre. Opera Glasses are lent by the box-keepers (is). Books of nearly all plays maybe pro- cured from S. French, 89, Strand, W.C. *ADELPHI THEATRE, 411, Strand (Plan G 5). Rebuilt 1857. Melodrama. Stalls 7s. ; Pit 2s. 6.45 p.m. *ALHAMLRA, Leicester Square (Plan F 5) Best ballet in London. Originally intended for a " Panoptican of Science and Art," then used as a circus and music-hall, and now a regular theatre. Stalls 6s. ; Pitas. 7. 30 p.m. ASTLEY'S (Sanger's), Westminster Bridge Road (Plan G 7). The oldest circus, estab- lished in 1774 by Astley, burnt down in 1803 and 1841. Dress Circle 43. ; Pit is. 7 p.m. *BRITAXNIA THEATRE, 115, Hoxton Street. One of the largest peoples' theatres. Stage Box 2s. 6.45. CRITERION THEATRE, Regent Circus (Plan 5* F 6), an underground house, below Spiers and Pond's Restaurant. Pit 2s. 8 p.m. *COVENT GARDEN (Royal Italian Opera) (Plan G 5). The first theatre on this spot was built in 1733, but destroyed by fire in 1809. Kemble rebuilt the house, and raised the charges of admission, which led to the O.P. (old price) rows. In 1856, the theatre was again burnt to the ground, but rebuilt in the short space of seven months. It is now the finest and most convenient theatre in London. The two statues (" Comedy" and " Tragedy"), | and the bas-reliefs, are by Flaxman. The "Floral Hall," a glass palace, adjoins the theatre on the south, and is used for concerts, and as a promenade during the opera season. An Italian Opera Company performs during the season. Stalls 2 is. ; Pit 7s. ; Amphi- theatre I os. 6d., 75. and 55, ; Gallery 2s. 6d. Usual west-end prices during remainder of year. *DRURY LANE, Catherine Street, Covent Garden (Plan G 5). This is the oldest London play-house, originally established in 1663, thrice destroyed by fire, and the present building opened in 1812. Mr. B. Wyatt was the architect. Portico, with a statue of Shakespeare, and colonnade are subsequent additions. Within the vestibule a statue of Edmund Kean, by Carew, and a bust of Balfe. Fine Refreshment and Cloak Rooms. Stalls 7s. ; Pit 2s. 7 p.m. DUKE'S THEATRE, 43, High Holbora (Plan G 4). Stalls 7s. ; Pit 2s. Begins at 7. GAIETY THEATRE, 345, Strand (Plan G 5), 7 p.m. GLOBE THEATRE, Newcastle Street, Strand (Plan G 5). Opened in 1868. Stalls 6s. 5 Pit 2s. 7.30 p.m. HENGLER'S CIRCUS, 7, Argyle Street (Plan E 5). Begins at 7.30. *HAYMARKET THEATRE, 7, Haymarket (Plan F 6). Opened in 1821 ; Nash, arcln- tect. Stalls 73. ; Pit 2s. 7 p.m. HER MAJESTY'S OPERA HOUSE (Plan F 6). ; Originally built in 1705 by Vanburgh ; de- ; stroyed by fire in 1 789, rebuilt by Novosielsky and improved by Nash and Repton, 1816 20. In 1867 the interior was gutted in conse- quence of a conflagration, but though restored, the house has never again been opened as a theatre. LYCEUM, corner of Strand and Wellington Street (Plan G 5). Opened in 1834; S. Barley, architect. Witnessed the triumphs of Madame Vestris. Stalls 75. ; Pit 2s. Be- gins at 7- *XATIONAL OPERA HOUSE, Thames Em- bankment, near Westminster Bridge (Plan 8.-AMUSEMENTS. F 6), the largest opera house of London, and next to that of San Carlo in Naples, in the world. The first stone was laid on 2md September, 1875, by Madame Titjens, and it is expected that the theatre would be opened in May, 1876. Architect, F. Fowler. OLYMPIC THEATRE, 6, Wych Street (Plan G 5). Stalls 73. 6d. ; Pit 2s. Begins 7.15. * PRINCE OF WALES'S THEATRE, 21, Tot- tenham Street (Plan E 4). Fine Comedies. Stalls I os. ; Pit 2s. 6d. PRINCESS'S THEATRE, Oxford Street (Plan E 5). Stalls 73. ; Pit 2s. QUEEN'S THEATRE, 91, Long Acre (Plan G 5). Occupies the site of John Hullah's St. Martin's Hall, which was burnt down in 1867. Architect, C. J. Phipps. Stalls 7s. ; Pit 2s. 7 p.m. ST. JAMES'S THEATRE, King Street, St. James's (Plan E 6). Stalls 6s. ; Pit 2s. STANDARD . THEATRE, 204, Shoreditch (Plan K 3). " Rebuilt in 1866; -holds 7000 spectators. A people's house. Stalls 35. 7 p.m. STRAND THEATRE, 168, Strand (Plan 65). Stalls 75. ; Pit 2s. 7.30 p.m. * VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE, 131, "Water- loo Road (Plan H 7), with immense gallery. People's theatre. Stalls is. VAUDEVILLE THEATRE, 404, Strand (Plan G 5). Opened in 1870. Stalls 7s. ; Pit2S. *-' CONCERTS. The principal CONCERT HALLS are : Exeter Hall, Strand. Built 1831, by Deer- ing ; Organ, by Walker. (Plan G 5.) St. James's Hall, Regent's Quadrant and Piccadilly. Decorated by Owen Jones. (Plan E 6.) St. George's Hall, Langham Place. Built 1867. (Plan 4.) Willis's Rooms, King Street, St. James's (Plan, E 6). Built 1765, by Robert Milne. " Almack's Balls " were held here up to 1863, when the intrusion of the vulgar caused them to be given up. Albert Hall, South Kensington (Plan, B 7). Floral Hall, next to Covent Garden Theatre, (Plan, G 5), page 32. Alexandra and Crystal Palace. Royal Aquarium, Westminster. The celebrated Hanover Square Rooms have been converted into a club. Regularly recurring CONCERTS : Philharmonic Society, established 1813. Concerts in St. James's Hall. New Philharmonic Society, established 1852 by Dr. Wylde, in St/James's Hall. Sacred Harmonic Society, established 1832. Oratorios in Exeter Hall. Conductor Sir Michael Costa. Wagner Society, established 1860. Concerts in St. James's Hall. Dannreuther, conductor. Monday and Saturday Popular Concerts, St. James's Hall. Conductor, Sir Julius Benedict. Performances by virtuosi. Saturday Concerts at the Crystal Palace (Manns, Conductor), and at the Alexandra Palace (Weist Hill, Conductor). Daily Concerts at the Aquarium, West- minster. Arthur Sullivan, Director. Ballad Concerts at St. James's Hall and Albert Hall. The singers are paid by the music publishers to sing the songs published by them. Promenade Concerts, in Covent Garden Theatre, in autumn. Moore and Burgess's Minstrels, in St. James's Hall, daily. Musical Masses in St. George's Cathedral, (Plan H 7), and the Italian Church, Hatton Garden (Plan H 4) on Sundays. See adver- tisements in Times. A charge is made for seats. Sunday Evenings for the People, at the South Place Institute, Finsbury (Plan K 4), 7 p.rn. Lecture and sacred music. x . Choral Services in Westminster Abbey daily, at 10 and 3, and in St. Paul's Cathedral, 10 and 4. Service in Foundling Hospital, Sundays at 1 1 and 3. OPEN AIR CONCERTS in the following places : St. James's Park, on week days, 6 to 8 p.m. Band of Commissionaires (did not take place in 1875.) St. James's Palace, Parade, Sundays, 10.45. Kensington Gardens, Tuesday and Friday, 4 to 7. Military Band. Fashionable prom- enade. Regenfs Park. Sundays, 5 p.m. (People's Band). Thousands of listeners. Battersea, Park. Monday, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, 5 p.m. Victoria Park. Leicester Square, Saturday, 3 to 5- Zoological Gardens i Saturday, 4 to 6. Mili- tary Band. Horticultural Gardens, Saturday afternoon. Military Band. MUSIC HALLS. The programme of these will hardly please a refined taste. In addition to songs, there are mostly gymastics, dancing, &c. Smoking and drinking are per- mitted. There are about 30 of the:,3 music halls. 8. AMUSEMENTS. EVANS'S, Coveat Garden (Plan G 5). This is the oldest Music Room in London, and the only place to hear a choir of boys sing some excellent Glees, Madrigals, and Choruses. Celebrated for suppers and baked potatoes, j Gentlemen only can enter the body of the room, but ladies are admitted to private boxes. Oxford, 6, Oxford-st. ( Plan E 5 ). Admis. 6d. London Pavilion, 4, Tichborne-street, top of Haymarket (Plan F 5). South London Palace, 92, Lond. -rd. ( PlanH;). Royal Alhambra, 211, High-street, Shore- ditch, (Plan K 4). Smoking and drinking prohibited. Great Central Hall, 36, Norton Folgate, (Plan K 4), the old City of London Theatre. A Temperance Hall. A visit to these two latter would well repay the stranger. ENTERTAINMENTS, EXHIBITIONS. Agricultural Hall, Islington, (Plan H 2), built by Peek, the large Hall, 190 feet long, 216 feet wide. Concerts, cattle, horse and dog- shows, Equestrianism, Revival Meetings, &c. Alexandra Palate, to the north of London, fully described p. 23. Aquarium and Winter Garden, West- minster (Plan F 7), fully described p. 23. Moore and Burgess's Minstrels, St. James's Hall (lower room), (Plan E'6), every night at 8. Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 3 and 8. Admission is. to 55. Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea, (Plan B 10). Open-air dancing, ballet, equestrianism, fire- works, capital dinners and suppers. Open during day, for promenade. Admission is. Omnibus from Charing Cross (" CHELSEA ") or steamer. * Crystal Palace, Sydenham, fully described, Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly (Plan E 6). Ex- terior in Egyptian, interior in Chinese style. Maskelyne and Cooke's illusory entertainment daily at 3 and 8. Admission is. to 5. W. Morton, manager. Erith Gardens, below Woolwich, accessible by steamer or railway. Finely laid out. Ad- mission 6d. North Woolwich Garden ("Riverside"), under the management of Mr. Holland, the " People's Caterer," Accessible by rail from Fenchurch Street, or by steamer. Admission 6d. Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent Street (Plan, 5). Entertainments of various kinds, collection of models and machinery, &c. Open 12 to 6 and 7 to 10. Admission is. *Reed (Mr. and Mrs. German), drawing- room entertainment at St. George's Hall,' Portland Place (Plan 4). 8 p.m. Ad-' mission is. to 53. 35 Rosherville Gardens, near Gravesend, nicely situated in old quarries. Accessible by steamer or railway. * Surrey Gardens, 40, Penton Street, New- ington Causeway (Plan II 9). Concerts, ballets, fireworks, &c. Admission is. *7ussaud's (Madame) Exhibition, Baker Street (Plan D 4.) This interesting collection of wax figures was first exhibited at the Palais Royal, Paris, in 1772. In 1802 it was brought to England, and has since been very much enlarged. No person of celebrity or notoriety will be missed. In one of the extra rooms there are several relics of the great Napoleon, including the carriage captured by the Prus- sians after Waterloo, and the chamber of horrors contains Samson's Guillotine, and the effigies of celebrated murderers. Open from 10 to 10, (evening best time). Admission is. ; extra rooms 6d. MISCELLANEOUS AMUSEMENTS. ARCHERY is practised by the " Royal Toxopholite Society," Inner Circle, Regent's Park ; at the Crystal Palace, &c. ATHLETICS. The head quarters for Athletic Sports are at Lillie Bridge, Brompton (Plan beyond A 9), where there are also Racket and Tennis Courts, Polo grounds, &c. BOATING. On theThamesand the Lea (East London), on the lakes of Hyde Park, Victoria and St. James's Park ; at the Alexandra and Crystal Palace ; and at the Wdsh Harp, Hendon, in the north of London (im.N.W. of A I.) BICYCLING may be practised at the Alexan- dra and Crystal Palaces, where bicycles are on hire. BILLIARDS, Gatli's, Railway Arches, Vil- liers Street, Strand. Evans's, 82, Regent Street. Bennett's, 315, Oxford Street. BOWLING ALLEYS (American), 42, Kingman Street, Covent Garden, and London Pavilion, Tichborne Street, Haymarket. CRICKET GROUNDS, Lords, (property of the- Marylebone Club), St. John's Wood Road (Plan B 3). Surrey, Kennington Oval Plan G 9). Prince's, Hans Place (Plan C 7). None of these are accessible to the (general public, except on certain match days. Cricket may, however, be witnessed in Regent's Park, Batteisea Park, Victoiia Park, &c. , where there are public cricket grounds of large extent (Ask a park keeper whether a match is going on, Saturday afternoon is the best time). DANCING,' Argyll Rooms, 7, Great Wind- mill 'Street (Plan' F 5). Cleveland Dancing Academy, 54, Cleveland Street (Plan, 4). 0. -MISCELLANEOUS ADDBESSE3 AND FIXTURES. London Academy of Dancing, Jl, Mortimer Street (Plan E 4). I-.. FISHING. Welsh Harp, Hendon. ! GYMNASIUM. The best is the German Gymnasium, 26, Pancras Road (Plan F 2). PIGEON SHOOTING. At one time a fashion- able amusement, carried on at Hurlingham House, Brompton. RACKET AND TENNIS COURTS exist in connection with the Cricket Grounds named. SKATING RINKS, Be/grave, 196, Ebury Street (Plan D 8). Royal Avenue, 122, King's Road, Chelsea (Plan C 8). South Kensington, close to Gloucester Gate and Kensington Station (Plan A 7). Lansliam, opposite the Langham Hotel (Plan E 4). Holborn, in the former Holborn Amphitheatre (Plan G 4), &c. Alexandra and Crystal Palace. Aquarium, Westminster. SWIMMING Bathing is permitted in the Serpentine, Hyde Park, and in Victoria Park, before 8 in the morning, and between 7 and 8 in the evening. There are likewise numerous covered Swimming Baths, including a " Floating Bath " on the Thames, above Charing Cross Railway Bridge. YACHTING is promoted by the Royal Thames Yacht Club, of Albermarle Street, W., and other clubs. 9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES. PLACES OF WORSHIP. ' Only those Churches have been inserted in this list which are remarkable for their architecture, or on account of the manner of performing the service. Popular preachers, and musical performances in the Catholic Churches, are generally advertised in Saturday's papers. CHURCH OF ENGLAND. : *ALL SAINTS, Margaret-street, Cavendish- square (Plan E 5), sumptuous interior ; Ritu- alistic. Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10.30, 11.45 a.m., 3.30, 4 and 7 p.m. Week days 7, 7.45, 8-15 a.m. and 5 p.m. Chapels Royal, see Savoy, St. James's and Whitehall. Foundling Hospital, (Plan G 4), II and 3; (Musical services.) Lincoln's Inn Chapel, (Plan G 5), (stained glass). Sunday, II and 3, week day 8 a.m. St. Alban's, Brooke-street, Holborn (Plan H 4.) Highly decorated in interior; Ritua- listic. Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10.15, 1 1 a.m., 3 and 5 p.m. Week days 7, 8, 8.30 a.m. and 8 p.m. *St. Bartholomew-the-Great, West Smith- field (Plan I 4). Norman and early English Architecture. Sunday, II a.m, 6.30 p.m. St. Brides, Fleet-street (Plan II 5). (By Wren). Sunday, 11, 3.30 and 6.30. St. George's, Hanover-square, (stained glass of i6th cent., fashionable marriages). Sunday, II, 4, 7- St. Giles's, Cripplegate, Aldersgate-street (Plan I 4). Milton's tomb; portion of old Roman Wall in Cemetery, Sunday, u. 3.30 and 7. 37 St. James's, Chapel Royal, St. James's Palace, 10. a.m. free, 12 and 5.30 by ticket issued by Lord Chamberlain, not later than 2 p.m. on Saturday. St. James's, Piccadilly (Plan E 6), by Wren. Sunday, 11, 3 and 7. St. Mar tin' s-in-the- Fields, Trafalgar-square, (Hawks Moor, Architect.) Sunday, n, 3 and 7. Weekdays 8a.m. St. Michael's, Cornhill (Plan K 5). Interior decorated by Sir G. Scott. Sunday, 1 1 and 6.30. St. Paul's, Covent Garden (Plan G 5). Inigo Jones, Architect. Sunday, 1 1 and 7. St. Peter ad Vincula, in the Tower of London (Plan L 6). Sunday, n and 3. *St. Saviour's, Southwark (Plan I 6). (Early English Architecture). Sunday, n, 3, 6.30. *ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Sunday, 10.30, 3- J 5> 7 J week-days, 8, 10 and 4. St. Stephen's, Walbrook (Plan I 5). Ele- gant interior by Wren. Sunday, 1 1 and 6.30. Savoy, Chapel Royal (Plan G 5), perpen- dicular of Henry the VII's time. Sunday, 8, 10.15, "-30i 4 and 7. * Temple Church, (Plan H 5.) Transition Norman. Sunday, 1 1 and 3. * Westminster Abbey, (Plan F 7). Sunday and week days, 10 and 3, Choral services. Attend when Dean Stanley preaches. OTHER PROTESTANT DENOMINATIONS. BAPTISTS. Metropolitan Tabernacle, (Plan H 8). Rev. Mr. Spurgeon. Sunday, n and 6.30. (Holds 6, 500 auditors.) 38 9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES. FREE CHURCH. 14, Newman-street, Ox- ford-street (Plan F 4). Dr. Perfitt. Sunday, 11,7 and 8. Admission 3d. INDEPENDENT. City Temple, Holborn Viaduct (Plan H 4). Rev. Dr. Parker. Sunday, II and 7. PRESBYTERIAN, Scotch. Regent-square, Grays Inn Road (Plan G. 3). Sunday, 11 and 7. SCOTCH, NATIONAL. Crown Court, Little Russell-street (Plan F 4). Rev. Dr. John Gumming. Sunday, n and 6.30. SURREY CHAPEL, (Calvinist Methodists). 196, Blackfriars-road (Plan II 6). Rev. Newman Hall. Sunday, 8. 9.45, II, 3, 6.30 and 8. UNlTARiAT^-South Place, Finsbury (Plan K.4.) Moncure Comvay. Sunday, 1 1 and 5. ROMAN CATHOLIC. Sf. George's Cathedral, Westminster Bridge- road (Plan H 7). A. W. Pugin, architect. Sunday, 6.30, 7.30, 8.30, 9.30, II, 3 and 6.30. Oratory, Brompton-road (Plan B 7). Sun- day, 6.30, n, 3.30 and 7. Weekdays, 6.30 to 10,' and at 8 p.m. St. Mary's, Moorfields, East -street, Fins- bury-square (Plan K 4). Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10, n, 3 and 7. . Weekdays, 7.30, 8, 10 and 8. ^ - -,,.-, ; v. - ^ SYNAGOGUES. GREAT SYNAGOGUE, St. James's Place, Aldersgate-street (Plan I 4). Daily, 7 a.m. and sunset. GERMAN, New Broad-street (Plan K 4). Saturday, 7 a.m. WEST LONDON, 34, Upper Berkeley-street, Portman-square (Plan C 5). Saturday, 1 1. 30 a.m., Friday sunset. .'~ FOREIGN, Danish (Lutheran), King-street, Poplar (Plan P 6). Sunday, 10.30 a.m. Dutch (Reformed), Austin Friars (Plan K 5). Built I3th Century. Sunday n a.m. French (Protestant), Bloomsbury -street (Plan F 5). Sunday, n and 3.30. St. Martin' s-le- Grand. (Plan I 5), Sunday, II and 6.30. German (Protestant) Royal Chapel, Marl- borough-court (Plan E 6). Sunday, 11.30. St. George's, Little Alie-street, Whitechapel (Plan L 5). Sunday, n and 6.30. St. Mary, Savoy-st. (Plan G 5). Sunday, 11.30 and 6.30. Greek, 81, London Wall (Plan K 5). Sun- day, ii a.m. Italian (Roman Catholic), 28, Hatton Wall, Holborn (Plan H 4). Sunday, 7.30, 9, 10, 39 11.15, 2 3. 4. and 7- Week-days, 7, 9, 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. Music, . Russian (Greek Catholic), 32, Welbeck-st. Plan D 4). Sunday, 1 1 a.m. Spanish (Roman Catholic), Spanish-place, Manchester-square (Plan D 5). Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10, II, 3.30, 4 and 7. Weekdays, 7, 8 and 10. Swedish (Lutheran), Princes-square, St. George 's-street, Shadwell (Plan M 6). Sun- day, ii a.m. Swiss (Protestant, French), 26, Endell^st., Long Acre (Plan F 5). Sunday, 11-30. SOCIETIES. We have included in the following list only those Societies which may be sup- posed to interest strangers, or which are! characteristic of London. We need] hardly say that a most hearty welcome > will be extended by the authorities of these, and of all other societies, to every ' stranger who takes a practical interest in their objects, and that every*facility will! be offered for inspecting the institutions | connected with them. , v ...... . ; LEARNED SOCIETIES. Anthropological Institute, 4, St. Martift's- place, Trafalgar-square, W.C. Architectural Association, 9, Conduit-street, Bond-street., W. British Archaeological Society, 32, Sack- ville-street, W. British Association for the advancement of Science, 22, Albemarle-street, Piccadilly, W. Chemical Society, Burlington House, Picca- dilly, W. Entomological Society, 1 1, Chandos-street, Cavendish-square, W., Monday, 2 till 7. Gaelic Society of London, 14, Bedfbrd- | row, W.C. Geological Society, Burlington House, Pic- cadilly, W. Institution of Civil Engineers, 25, Great George-street, Westminster, S.W. Institution of Naval Architects, 20, John- street, Adelphi, W.C. Linnean Society, Burlington House, Picca- dilly, W. London Mathematical Society, 22, Albe- marle-street, W. Meteorological Society, 30, Great George- street, S.W. National Association for the promotion of Social Science, I, Adam-street, Adelphi,. W.C. Pathological Society, 53, Berner's-street,W, 40 9MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES. Royal Agricultural Society, 12, Hanover- , square, W. Royal Archaeological Institute of Great i Britain and Ireland, 1 6, New Burlington- ; street, W. Royal Asiatic Society, 22, Albemarle- j street, W. Royal Astronomical Society, Burlington j House, W. Royal Botanic Society, Inner Circle, Re- gent's-park, N.W. Royal Geographical Society, I, Saville-row, Burlington-gardens, W. Royal Institute of British Architects, 9, Conduit-street, Bond-street, W. Royal Institution, 21, Albemarle-street, W. Royal Society, Burlington House, Picca- j dilly, W. Society of Antiquaries of London, Burling- j ton House, Piccadilly, W. Society of Arts, 18, John-street,' Adelphi, W.C. Statistical Society, Somerset House-terrace, King's College, Strand, W.C. Zoological Society, II, Hanover-square and Regent's -park. EDUCATIONAL. British and Foreign School Society (1808), Borough Road, Income ,23,000. Home and Colonial School Society (1836), Gray's Inn-road, .10,000. National Society for Promoting Education of the Poor in the Principles of the Estab- lished Church (1811), Sanctuary, Westminster, ^30,000. Ragged School Union (1841), I, Exeter Hall, Strand. Sunday School Union (1803), 56, Old Bailey, ^"36,000. HUMANE. Anti-Slavery Society (1839), 27, New Broad- street, City. Associate Institute for Improving and En- forcing the Laws for the Protection of Women (1844), 33, Strand. Cabmen's Shelter Fund (i873),Marlborough- street. Dog's Home (1861), Lower Wandsworth- road. Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association (1859), 4, Victoria-street, Westminster. Royal Humane Society (1774), 4, Trafalgar- square. Royal National Lifeboat Institution (1824), 14, John-street, Adelphi, ,34.000. Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (1824), 105, Jermyn-street, ,5,000. 4* Royal Society for the Protection of Life from Fire (1836), 66, Ludgate-hill. Society for Promoting the Employment of Women (1859), 22, Lerner's-street, Oxford- street. BENEVOLENT AND CHARITABLE. British Ladies' Association for promoting the reformation of female prisoners, (1821), Elizabeth Fry Refuge, Mare-street, Hackney. London Female Preventive and Reformatory Institution, (1857), 200, Euston Road. Philanthropic Society for the reformation of Criminal Boys, (1788), Farm-school, Redhiil, Surrey. Governess's Benevolent Institution (1843), 32, Sackville-street. Metropolitan Association for improving thi dwellings of the Industrious Classes (1844), S, Finsbury Circus. Ragged School Shoeblack Brigade (^i), I, Exeter Hall. Society for organising Charitable Relief '(1869), 15, Buckingham-street, Strand. London Society for Teaching the Blind to Read (1839), Upper Avenue-road. British and Foreign Sailors' Society (i8iS), Mercer-street, City. ^5,600. . .... MISSIONARY, BIBLE, AND TRACT. Baptist Missionary Society, 19, Castle-street, Holborn. ,40,000. British and Foreign Bible Society (1804), 9, Queen Victoria-street. ,220,000. Church Missionary Society (\7<}6}, Salisbury- square, Fleet-street. Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, (1701), 19, Delahay-street, Westminster. 135,000. London City Mission, (1835), Bridewell Place, Blackfriars. ^46,000. London Missionary Society (1795), 14, Bloomfield-street, Finsbury. i 12,000. Religious Tract Society (1799), 56, Pater- noster Row. ji45,ooo. Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge (1698), 67, Lincoln's Inn Fields. ^"36,000. ART GALLERIES. Admission to these is granted only or> payment of is. The pictures are gener- ally by modern masters, and on sale. Btirlington Gallery (Elijah Walton's Alpine Pictures), 191, Piccadilly. British Artists, Society of, 6, Suffolk-street Pall Mall. Danish Artists, 142, New Bond-street. Dore Gallery, 35, New Bond-street. Dudley Gallery, Egyptian Hall. Female Artists, Society of, 48, Pall MalL 42 9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES. Flemish Gallery, 35, King-street, Coven Garden (on presentation of card.) French Artists, 120, Pall Mall. French Artists, Society of, 1 68, New Bond- street. Munich Gallery, 48, Great Marlborough- street, Regent-street. -Vhc' British Institution, 39, Old Bond-street. Painters in Water Colours, Institution of, 53, Pall Mall. Painters in IVater Colours, Society of, fa, Pall Mall East. READING ROOMS AND LIBRARIES. American Exchange and Reading Rooms (R. C. M. Bowles, Manager), 449, Strand. Monthly subscriptions, 43. List of Americans in London, General Agency. Deacon's, 154, Leadenhall Street, City. Lloyd's, Royal Exchange (only for sub- scribers). Lombard News Room, 39, Lombard street, City. News Rooms, 83, Lower Thames Street, City. Newspapers and Magazines are likewise to be found at numerous Coffee Houses. Times filed at Peel's Coffee House, 177, Fleet Street. Amongst the PUBLIC LIBRARIES, that of the British Museum occupies the first rank. There are also : Library of the Corporation of London, Guildhall. Open daily, 105. Library of Commissioners of Patents, 25, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane. Daily, free, 105. Art and Educational Library, in South Kensington Museum. Lambeth Library (Lambeth Palace), and Zion College (London Wall), on application to Librarian. BATHS. Argyll Baths (uuh., l8, Belgrave- square. Cons., 29, St. bwithin's Lane, City. Belgium, Min. Plen., 36, Grosvenor-gardens. Con., n, Bury-court, St. Mary Axe. Bolivia, Cons., 12, Great Winchester-street. Brazil, Min. Plen., 32, Grosvenor-gardens. Cons., 6, Great Winchester-street. Chili, Cons., Gresham House, City. Columbia, Cons., 3, St. Helen's-placc, City. Costa Rica, Con?,., 4, Lime-street, City. Denmark, Min. Plen., 62, Wimpole-street, Cavendish-square. Cons., 42, Great Tower- street. Ecuador, Cons., 59, Palmerston Buildings, Old Broad-street. France, Amb., Albert Gate, Hyde Park. 38, Finsbury-Circus. German Empire, Min. Plen., 9, Carlton House Terrace. Cons., 5, Bloomfield-street, London Wall: Greece, Min. Plen., 1 8, Margaret-street, W. Cons., 25, Old Broad-street. Gitatemata, Min. Plen., 21, Bedford -square. Cons., 22, Great Winchester-street. Honduras, Cons., nS, Leadenhall -street, City. Italy, Amb., 25, Grosvenor-street. Cons., 31, Old Jewry, City. Japan, Min. Plen., 9, Kensington Park. Gardens. Liberia, Cons., 18, Pinner's Hall, Old ! Broad-street. Mexico, Cons., 4, Adam's-court, Old Bro id- street. Netherlands, Min. Plen., 40, Grosvenor-gar- dens Cons.,'], Skinner's-place, Sise-lane, City. Nicaragua, Cons., 3, St. Helen's-place. Persia, Min. Plen., 80, Holland Park. Cons., 51, Portland-place. Peru, Min. Plen., 4, Albert Mansions, Victoria-street. Cons., 18, Bedford-square. Portugal, Min. Plen., 12, Gloucester-place, Portman-square. Cons., 10, St. Mary Axe. Russia, Amb., Cheshnm House, Belgrave- square. Cons., 17, Great Winchester-street 44 iO.-HISTOmCAL SKETCH. Salvador, Min. PL'ii., 21, Bedford-square. Cans., 3, St. Helen's-place. San Domingo, Cons., 1 8, Coleman-street. Spain, Min. Plen., 15, St. George's-place, Hyde-park. Cons., 21, Billiter-street. Sweden and Norway, Min. Plen., 2, Great Cumberland-place. Cons., 2, Alderman's- walk, New Broad-street. Switzerland, Cons., 7, Great Winchester- street buildings. Turkey, Amb., I, Bryanston-square. Cons. t Ethelburga-house, City. Urugiiary, Cons.,-$, Spring-gardens, Charing, cross. Venezuela, Cons., 25, Moorgate-street. A GENERAL, DESCRIPTION OF LONDON". 10. HISTORICAL SKETCH. THE foundation of London is involved in obscurity, for the statement of Geoffrey of Monmouth, that it was founded by Brutus, a descendant of ^Eneas, King of Troy, belongs as much to the domain of fable as the existence of a King Lud, who is credited with having surrounded the town with walls. Cassar, in his Com- mentaries, does not mention London at all, but at the time of the second Roman invasion, about 43 A.D., it was already a town of some importance, and Tacitus describes it as a populous place, having much trade. The revolted Britons, under Queen Boadicea, destroyed the town, but it rose again from its ashes in greater magnificence than before. Roman Lon- don, after all, was but a small place, if we compare it with the present metropol's. It occupied the space bounded by the Tower, Cheapside, Ludgate, and the Thames. The modern Watling Street was probably the principal street of the ancient city, and a Milliarium (milestone), from which the distances along the four great Roman roads leading into the pro- vinces were measured, may still be seen in the wall of St. Swithin's Church, opposite the Cannon Street railway station. The modern Artillery Ground, near Finsbury Square, occupies the site of the ancient Campus Martius, and remains of the Roman walls exist in the church- yard of St. Giles, Cripplegate. The Saxons made London, which they called Lundenburg, the capital of Essex, and Beda, the chronicle-writer, speaks of it as a place of much commerce. The first bishop was installed in 610 by St. 45 Augustine, the so-called Apostle of the Anglo-Saxons, and the foundations of St. Paul's and of Westminster Abbey were laid almost simultaneously. During the Danish invasion, London suffered much. The Danes burnt the town, but Alfred the Great, in 884, rebuilt it and surrounded it with walls ; and about ten years afterwards, when these predatory Northmen had again come up the Thames, wintering with their ships in the River Lea, the Londoners sallied forth and forced them to retire. Sub- sequently, however, on the accession of Canute, the Danes came to England as peaceful settlers. When William of Normandy had defeated the last Saxon king, Harold, at Hastings, the citizens of London closed their gates against the Conqueror, but they yielded to the per- suasion of the clergy, and their submission was rewarded, in 1067, by a confirmation of their ancient privileges, though Wil- liam, who dreaded the turbulent spirit of the citizens, built the tower at once a fortress and a Royal residence to over- awe them. Under William's successors, the citizens of London frequently suffered from the arbitrary exactions of the kings ; but forced loans levied upon them now and then led to the grant of new privileges. One of the most important of these was that of choosing their chief magistrate, who, up to 1215 had been appointed by the king. The history of London during the Middle Ages, and up to the accession of Queen Elizabeth, is full of turmoil and of visita- tions, such as, in our more enlightened. 46 10.-HISTOBICAL SKETCH. times, have become almost impossible. The foreign merchants who -had settled in England, and monopolised almost the whole of the foreign trade, were exposed on several occasions to the violence of the mob. The privilege of exporting or im- porting merchandise, on payment of a duty of one per cent, only, which Henry III. had granted to the Hanse merchants, in return for the assistance which they had rendered him against the French, led to one of these ridings, and all foreign merchants were ordered to leave the country in 1285, but recalled soon afterwards. Another riot took place on "Evil May Day," 1517, and it is a remarkable fact that at that time London owned but 5 vessels measuring over 1 20 tons, nearly the whole of the foreign trade having been carried on in foreign vessels ! The Jews were likewise objects of hatred, as was indeed the case all over Christendom. They had first come to England in the 8th century, were favoured by William the Conqueror, and soon ac- quired considerable wealth. They first roused the animosity of the populace by penetrating into Westminster Abbey during the coronation of Richard I. in 1189, when many amongst them fell victims to popular fury. They suffered again in 1214, when their houses were plundered by the Barons, on their entry into London after having forced the king to sign the Magna Charta. In 1291 the Jews were expelled the country, and they were permitted to return only in 1642, when the learned Menasseh Ben Israel, of Amsterdam, offered to pay ,50,000 if St. Paul's Cathedral and the Bodleian Library were ceded to them, an offer re- jected by Parliament as not being suffi- ciently liberal. Dissatisfaction with the administration of the Government led to several riots, amongst which that stirred up by William Fitz-Osbert, in 1196, was one of the most remarkable. In 1380 Wat Tyler, at the head of 100.000 re- bellious peasants entered the town. The Lord Mayor of that time slew him during an interview with the king, a deed com- memorated by the dagger in the City arms. Seventy years later, Jack Cade, at the head of a large number of mal- contented Kentish men, occupied the 47 town, but his followers dispersed when promises of pardon, which it was never intended to adhere to, were held out to them, and his retreat being discovered, he was killed. The first execution in London for conscience sake took place in 1401, when a Wicklirfite was burnt at the instigation of the clergy. Henry VIII. killed Protestants and Catholics indis- criminately, whilst Queen Mary's name is associated with the disgraceful burnings of Protestants on Smithfield. A famine visited London in 1314-17, and the plague swept off many of its inhabitants, par- ticularly in 1349 and in 1525, (Still Christmas). London, however, increased in population, and the number of its in- habitants towards the close of the i6th century was estimated at 1 50,000, amongst whom were no less than 6,500 foreigners. The London of that time, that is of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, was neverthe- less but of small extent, if we compare it with the present gigantic proportions of the British Metropolis. Old London Bridge, the only bridge then in existence, connected the city with Southwark. Spitalfields and Moorfields were still open fields, but the space between the Strand and Holborn had partly been built over, as far as the Church of St. Giles and St. Martin's Lane. The Strand was oc- cupied by many houses of the nobility, whose gardens extended to the banks of the Thames. On the southern side of the river there were as yet but few houses, and Lambeth Palace stood almost by itself. On Bankside there were bull and bear gardens, and other places of amuse- ment. Islington, St. Pancras, Padding- ton, Tyburn, and other localities which 'have long ago become merged in the great metropolis, were still rural villages, separated from it by fields. London was, therefore, still a comparatively small town, but its growth had been so rapid as to excite the fears of the authorities, and the erection of new houses was fenced round with difficulties. But nothing could stop the progress of what was destined to become the most populous city the world had ever seen, in spite of plagues (as in 1665), and civil disturbances, which occasionally played havoc amongst its population. The number of its in- 48 lO.-HISTORICAL SKETCH. habitants increased rapidly. In 1625 there were 285,000 ; in 1682, 670,000 ; in 1801, 864,845 ; in 1821, 1,225,694 ; in 1841, 1,870,727 ; and in 1871, 3,254,260. The great fire in 1666, which destroyed 13,200 houses, offered one of those rare oppor- tunities for repairing the errors of the past, and of thoroughly improving the appearance of a town, but Sir Christopher Wren's fine scheme of re-building London was rejected, and the city rose from her ashes with her streets narrow and incon- venient as of yore. The more modern parts of the town, however, may boast of many fine squares and straight streets, as witness Lincoln's-inn-fields, built 1603-25; Covent Garden Market, built 1630-42 ; Soho and Leicester Squares, built in the time of Charles II. ; Hanover and Grosr venor Squares, which arose between 1720 and 1830, and Belgrave Square, which was laid out between 1826 and 1853. The most important improvements of the city completed during the reign of Queen Victoria are the Thames Embankment and the Main Drainage Works. EVENTS CONNECTED WITH THE HISTORY OF LONDON ARRANGED CHRONOLOGICALLY. 1068. William the Conqueror grants the first charter to the City of London. 1078. The Tower built by William the Conqueror. 1189. Massacre of the Jews at the Corona- tion of Richard I. 1190. The chief magistrate of the City first called "Mayor." and'this office filled by Henry Fitzalwyn for 20 years, , - / 1196. William Fitz-Osbert, who had excited the populace to a riot, on account of an unfair levy of a tax, is executed. 1206. The Emperor Otho of Germany entertained by the citizens. 1209. Old London Bridge, the first etone bridge over the Thames, opened. 1215. The citizens privileged to choose their chief magistrate. y 1236. First waterworks, conveying the water from Tyburn brook into the City. 1245-1522. Westminster Abbey built. 1 258, Twenty thousand persons carried off by a famine. 1264. Five hundred Jews murdered and the r synagogue and houses destroyed by the mob. 1278. 280 Jews of both sexes executed in London for " clipping coin." 49 1305. William Wallace hanged and quar- tered in Smithfield. 1306. Coal first burnt in London. 1314-17. Great famine, succeeded by a " grievous mortalitie. " 1326. The citizens rise in favour of the Queen of Edward II., they murder the bishop of Exeter and the Chancellor, and occupy the Tower. 1349. The Black Death carried off nine- tenths of the population ; 50,000 persons were buried on the site of the present Charter-house. 1380. Wat Tyler, the rebel, slain by the Mayor, Sir W. Walworth, in Smithfield. 1401. The first Wickliffite (Lollard) burnt for heresy at the instigation, of the clergy. 1407. The " Sweating Sickness" kills 30,000 persons. 1415. The streets of the City for the first time lighted with lamps. 1434-5. The Thames frozen over. 1450. Jack Cade enters the City at the head of the Kentish rebels. 1475. Caxton sets up his printing press in Westminster. 1500. The Plague carries off 20,000 people. 1502. Fleet Ditch made navigable as far as Holborn Bridge, by order of Henry VII. f ^ 1515. The Thames frozen over. 1517. "Evil Mayday" riot and destruction of property of foreigners. 1522. Charles V. entertained in London with great pomp. 1525. " Still Christmas" a year of pestilence. 1530-47. Henry VIII. burns Protestants and hafigs Roman C atholics. 1555-58. Burning of Protestants by Queen Mary, (commonly called " Bloody 4 Mary"). 1560. Westminster School founded by Queen Elizabeth. 1564. The Plague devastates the City. 1566. Sir Thomas Gresham lays the foundations of the first Exchange. 1581. Peter Morris, a German, establishes the Waterworks at London Bridge. 1592-3. The Plague carries off 22,165 persons. 1603. The Plague carrries off 30,578 souls in one year. 1603-25. Lincoln's Inn Fields laid out as a square, the first in London. 1604. Guy Fawke's Gunpowder Plot. 1606. The Thames frozen over. A fair held on it. 1608. The New River Waterworks begun by Hugh Myddelton. 1609. Large estates in Ulster granted to the City of London, who founded there the Cities of Londonderry and Coleraine. 5 10,-HISTORICAL SKETCH. 1615. Hackney coaches introduced. 1625. The Plague carries off 35,403 people. 1634. A monopoly for letting out Sedan chairs, granted to Sir S. Duncombe. 1643. London surrounded by entrench- ments. 1649. Charles I. executed. 1652. The first coffee-house opened in St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill. 1660. The part of Desdemona performed for the first time by an actress in the theatre in Vere-street. 1662. Royal Society founded. 1663. Drury Lane Theatre built. 1665. Insurrection of the Fifth Monarchy men. 1665. Great Plague, 68,596 persons die. 1666. Great fire of London. 1667-1752. Greenwich Hospital built. 1675-1710. St. Paul's Cathedral built. 1683. A London Penny Post introduced by Murray, an upholsterer. 1683. Lord William Russell beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields. 1687. French Protestant Rafugees settle in Spitalfields in consequence of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 1688. Every parish compelled to keep two fire engines. 1694. Bank of England established. 1705. First Italian opera performed in London. 1720. South Sea Bubble. 1739-50. Westminster Bridge, the second bridge over the Thames, built. 1739-40. The "Great Frost." The Thames frozen over. 1746. Chelsea Waterworks Company intro- duces iron mains. 1753. The British Museum founded. 1768. The Royal Academy of Arts founded. 1771. The Lord Mayor (Crosby) and Alderman Oliver committed to the Tower for refusing to act upon a warrant of the House of Commons directed against certain printers. 1780. "No Popery Riots," led by Lord George Gordon. 1788-9. The Thames frozen over. 1797. The Bank of England suspends cash payments. 1802. The West India Docks opened, the first in London. 1805. London Docks opened. 1807. Pali Mall lighted with gas, by Winsor, a German. 1811-17. Waterloo Bridge built. 1813. Thames frozen over and a fair held on it 1813. Regent Street formed. 1814. The Allied Sovereigns entertained at the Guildhall. 1816. The first steamer (from Glasgow) on the Thames. 1820. Cato-street Conspiracy for assassi- nating the Ministry. 1825-43. The Thames Tunnel constructed. 1826. Zoological Gardens established, 1826-33. Belgrave Square built. 1828. University College founded. 1829. Sir Robert Peel organised the Metro- politan Police. 1829-50. Trafalgar Square formed. 1830. The last man exhibited in the pillory for perjury. 1830. Omnibuses introduced by Mr. Shilli- beer. 1831. New London Bridge opened. 1832. First visitation of cholera. 1832. Kensal Green Cemetery opened. 1833. Fire Brigade organised by the In- surance companies. 1837 68. New Houses of Parliament built. 1841. The " Metropolitan Association for improving the dwellings of the Industrial Classes " founded. 1844. The first public "Baths and Wash- houses" opened in Goulston Square. 1848. 200,000 citizens sworn in as special constables to preserve the peace. 1838. The cholera destroys 15,000 persons. 1851. First International Exhibition in Hyde Park. 185354. The Crystal Palace at Sydenhani built. 1855. The Metropolitan Board of Works" created. !859 75. The Main Drainage of London completed, at a cost of 4,500,000. 1863. The Underground Railway opened. 1 865 70. The Thames Embankment con- structed. 1868. The Metropolitan Meat Market opened. 1870. The first " School Board" elected. 11. EXTENT AND POPULATION. Position mid Extent. London occupies portions of the counties of Middlesex, Surrey and Kent, on both sides of the Thames, which is navigable for sea-going vessels up to London Bridge, 47 miles above its mouth at the Nore. The river varies in width between 700 and 900 feet, and the two portions of the town are con- nected by eighteen bridges and two tunnels. London covers altogether an area of 118 square miles. Its greatest extent, from east to west, amounts to ten miles, and from north to south is eight miles. It is bounded on the north by the IT. ills of Middlesex, and on the south by those of Surrey, and a considerable por- tion of it occupies low alluvial tracts near the Thames, which are even now occa- sionally flooded by the tides, in spite of the embankments constructed to control them. The Climate is healthy, and the tem- perature equable, rising but rarely above 90^ F., nor falling below 30 F. The Thames has been known to be frozen over as recently as 1814, and in 1826 and 1842 it was blocked up with floating ice ; but an occurrence of this kind is not to be looked for again, and here, as elsewhere, the temperature has evidently become milder with the increasing cultivation of the country. The Population of London has been steadily on the increase since the beginning of the present century, the censuses taken since that time having given the following results : 1801 864,845 1861 2,803,921 1821 1,225,694 1871 3,254,260 1841 1,870,727 In 1875 th e population was estimated at 35i3jOOO souls, inhabiting 451,742 houses. Of the population enumerated in 1871, 2,055,576 were natives of Lon- don ; 944,684 were born in the remainder of England and Wales ; 91,171 in Ire- land ; 41,029 in Scotland ; and 92,800 abroad. To every thousand males there were 1,137 females ; the annual death-rate was 24-5 ; the birth-rate, 34-5 per thousand living. The occupations of the inhabitants of London have been determined by the census taken in 1871. No less than 1.973.295 persons, or 51 percent, of the total population, were wives and women 53 engaged in household duties, children not engaged in any directly productive occu- pation, or persons of rank and property. The occupations of the remaining 49 per cent, have been classified as follows : ,~, i Jit/" Males and Females General and local Go- Females. only. vernment . . . 3i,95 2 I *59 I Army and Navy . . 18,464 Learned professions : Literature, Art, and Science . . . 96,096 37,781 Persons engaged in entertaining and performing personal offices for man . . 314,711 262,100 Persons who buy or sell, keep or lend money, houses, or goods . . . 86,957 8,757 Conveyance of man, animals, goods, or messages . . . 134,014 1,096 Agriculture . . . 15,790 1,739 Persons engaged about animals . . . 12,907 124 Industrial classes . . 725,695 220,923 Labourers, &c. . .122,162 13,782 There were 2,409 Protestant ministers, 286 Catholic priests, and 1,104 preachers ; 1,872 barristers, 3,364 attorneys ; 5,100 surgeons and physicians, 874 dentists, and 3,760 apothecaries and chemists ; 1,285 authors, 6,908 artists, 6,392 musicians, and 2,625 actors ; 20,556 schoolmasters and teachers, and 2,203 scientific men ; 8,393 innkeepers and publicans, 2,407 beer- sellers, and 3,076 coffee-house keepers ; 11,338 sailors, and 10,231 dock-labourers; 35,402 messengers ; 20,054 printers, and 3,336 booksellers ; 5,319 manufacturers of musical instruments ; 4,906 watchmakers, 1,682 opticians, 759 surgical instrument makers ; 14,413 machine builders, 6,973 jewellers, 6,171 ships' carpenters, &c., 106,654 bricklayers and others engaged in the building of houses, 26,387 cabinet- makers and upholsterers, 1,284 gun- . makers, 8,640 wheelwrights and coach- builders, 6,629 silk weavers and dyers ; 5,145 hatmakers ; 23,516 tailors, 30,691 shoemakers, 73,240 dressmakers, 26,875 sempstresses ; 12,350 butchers, 4,766 fish- mongers, 13,044 bakers, 12,217 tea- dealers, 3,694 brewers, 3,157 cheese- mongers, &c. 54 11. -EXTENT AND POPULATION. The mean annual temperature of the town is 51, that of the rural districts sur- rounding it only 49, the difference in favour of the town being accounted for by its sheltered position, and by the thousands of lamps and fires which raise the tem- perature artificially. Dense fogs are one of the peculiarities of London. Sometimes they render it necessary to light the gas in the middle of the day ; but as they are, as a rule, quite local in character, tourists should not be deterred by them from making excursions into the country. They will generally find the weather there every- thing they could desire. Divisions of London. These are nume- rous and intricate, and even amongst the natives of the metropolis there are few who know the exact limits of the parish, borough, police, or other division, in which they happen to dwell. The " City of London " can be said to have immu- table boundaries, which are identical for parliamentary, municipal, and other pur- poses of local government. The " City of Westminster" consists of 9 parishes having a population of 51,181 souls, but enjoying hardly any special privileges. In addition to these two, there are eight parlia- mentary boroughs, viz., Finsbury, Mary- lebone, Tower Hamlets, Hackney, Chel- sea, Southwark, Lambeth, and Greenwich, which, together with the "Cities" of Lon- don and Westminster, return 22 members to the Imperial Parliament. In addition to these cities and boroughs, there are 30 Poor Law L T nions, 28 Registration Dis- tricts, 21 Police Districts, 39 Local Board Districts, c., an enumeration of which would hardly prove of interest. Far better known are the great Social Divisions of London, which are determined by position and certain characteristic features, which even a casual visitor cannot fail to be struck with. Broadly speaking, these are the City, the East End, the West End, and the suburbs. The City may be looked upon as the heart of the great metropolis, the centre of all its commercial operations. Its area is small (668 acres), and its popu- lation in 1871 only amounted to 74,897 souls ; but it is, nevertheless, the busiest place of all London nay, of all the world during the day, and the streams of City men carried thither by rail and omnibus 55 in the morning, to return home in the evening to their suburban homes, must strike even the visitor from other populous places with astonishment. During the night more than 2,000 huge warehouses are said to stand empty, entrusted merely to the care of the police ! Some notion of the traffic may be gathered from the fact that on a single day in 1872, between eight o'clock in the morning and noon, 3,415 vehicles and 18,775 pedestrians passed the Mansion House on an average every hour 7 The City is essentially devoted to commerce. Lombard-street has been noted for ages for its banks ; Mark-lane is the centre of the corn trade ; Mincing-lane of the Colonial trade ; Paternoster-row of the booksellers ; and Fleet-street of the printers. Nor is there any lack of well-furnished shops. The East End surrounds the City on the east and north. That portion of it which extends along the Thames is given up to Docks and to the various establishments connected with the shipping trade and with ship-building. Whitechapel is noted for its tobacco manufactories ; Goodman's Fields for its sugar refineries, employing a large number of Germans ; Spitalfields for its silk-weavers, originally French Huguenots, who found refuge in this country in 1687 ; and Clerkenwell num- bers amongst its population many watch- makers. A sort of neutral territory, occupied by the lawyers and their inns, separates the city from the West End, the seat of the Legislature, of the more renowned places of amusement, and of clubs, fashionable shops, and palatial residences. The con- trast between the dingy streets of the City and the magnificent squares and roads of the West End is striking, but hardly more so than that between different portions of the West End itself. The club houses of Pall-mall, the aristocratic mansions of Belgravia, and the fine - residences in Tyburnia, are in close proximity to ill- built quarters of the town, which are the seats of poverty and of vice. Landsecr, in two of his admirable paintings of dogs, entitled " St. James" and " St. Giles/' has metaphorically portrayed this contrast. Charing Cross is to the West End what the Bank is to the City, a great centre of traffic. 56 12.-STREETS AND PARKS. Southern London, " on the other side of the water " is given up almost entirely to the working 1 classes and to factories. The tanners have established themselves in Bermondsey, below London Bridge ; the brewers in the borough, of Southwark ; potters, soap manufacturers and chemists in Lambeth. Very different in their character from these central portions of the Metropolis are the Suburbs which surround them in ail directions. Originally small villages or towns, they have been swallowed up in the course of time and now form integral portions of the vast city. In their " high- streets " we still meet with old substantial dwellings, compactly built, and there are never wanting a few streets which are given up to shops, where the residents may make their purchases, but as a rulo detached or semi-detached houses, with small gardens predominate, or gardens separate the houses from the dusty roads. The houses vary in size, for the suburbs are not monopolized by the wealthier classes of the population, but afford innum- erable comfortable homes to the clerk and mechanic likewise. It is a peculiarity of London that none of these suburbs can be reached without passing through dingy portions of the town, where dwell the toiling thousands, to whom London owes a great portion of her wealth. 12. STREETS AND PARKS. Streets. There can be no doubt that the first impression which London streets make upon the foreigner, accustomed to brighter skies and gayer colours, is dismal to a degree. Interminable rows of dingy brick houses, with no pretension to archi- tectural beauty these he meets with in every quarter of the town. At the same time it cannot be denied that London possesses more private and business build- ings, substantially built and creditable to their architects, than any other city hi the world. Of late years houses of this description have bocn rapidly on the: in- crease, and even those who prefer plain stone to pretentious stucco ornamenta- tion, have no reason to complain. Un- fortunately these buildings are dispersed all over the town, and do not therefore strike the beholder as much as they would do if they were concentrated in a particular quarter of it, or they are hidden away in narrow streets, where their grand pro- portions only add to the gloom which enshrouds them. They suffer, too, from the atmosphere, the smoke, fog and gas, and soon l>ecome dingy, unless painted at frequent intervals. In many streets the stranger will notice that uniformity in the houses, which many admire so much in Paris. The best samples of this "barrack- style" are to be met with in many parts of the West End, and particularly in Regent, street, certainly one of the handsomest streets in London, built by Mr. John Nash, since 1813. In the more modern streets this uniformity has been discarded, and the student of architecture will meet there with representatives of all styles, from the Byzantine to the most florid Italian. One of the best examples- of this class is Queen Victoria-street, in the City, the only draw- back to which consists in the inferior width of some of the houses and in the great difference in their height. The new street from Trafalgar-square to the Thames Embankment, which is planted with trees, like the Paris Boulevards, may possibly become one of the architectural features of London. The fine oppor- tunity for architectural display afforded by the Embankment, stretching for 2330 yards along the Thames, has not hitherto been taken advantage of to any extent. On the contrary, this fine site has been permitted to be disfigured by some of the most ugly railway stations in London. Quite different in their character from the streets in the interior of the town aro some of those in the suburbs, whose houses, far removed from 'the din of busi- ness, and embedded in foliage, forr-i most invitin residences. 12. STREETS AND PARKS. In London, as in other large cities rapidly increasing in population, a defi- ciency of healthy d-u 'dlin 'gs for tJie work- ing classes, combining central position with lw rent and perfection of sanitary arrangements, has made itself felt for years past. A " Metropolitan Association for improving the dwellings of the Indus- trial Classes," which was established in 1841, first endeavoured to meet this want ; and there exist no\v about 29 similar asso- ciations, by whom dwellings accommo- dating 50,000 persons have been erected at a cost of ; 1, 600,000. One of the most successful promoters of this class of public enterprise has been Sir Sydney Waterlow, who demonstrated that these model lodging-houses might be made to pay a fair percentage upon the capital invested in them. The " Improved Industrial Dwellings Company," of which he is chairman, has furnished accommodation for 1,745 families since 1863. Another association, the " Artizans', Labourers', and General Dwellings Company," is engaged in building "Workmen's Cities" in the neighbourhood of London. One of these, " Shaftcsbury Park," has been de- scribed by us in chap. 22. A further impulse has been given to this movement by Mr. Peabody, a wealthy American, who placed ,500,000 in the hands of trustees to be expended in the erection of superior workmen's dwellings. On the 3 ist December, 1875, tne trustees had provided dwellings for 1,846 families at an average rate of 45. a week for each tenement, or of is. I id. for each room, and the fund has increased to ,612,054. The rent charged yields 3 per cent, upon the capital expended. An Act of Parliament passed recently empowers the Board to remove houses unfit for human habitation, and those doubtful of the necessity of so stringent a measure need penetrate only into some of the alleys debouching upon Drury Lane or Gray's Inn Road to become convinced of its necessity. The Squares of London form one of its most attractive features. They are generally occupied by a railed-in garden, and owe their origin to speculative builders, who trusted to increased value of the surrounding houses, whose inhabi- 59 tants alone have access to the garden enclosed by them. Inigo Jones, the great architect, endeavoured to introduce the Italian Piazza into London, but that of Covent Garden, which he begun, has never been completed, and its centre is occupied now by an unsightly market-hall. We owe to Jones, however, the " Lincoln's Inn Fields," the prototype of all our modern squares, and one of the largest amongst them. It is exceeded only by Eaton Square (Plan D 7), and next to it rank Russell and Belgrave squares. The only square in London not planted with trees is that of Trafalgar, the cold stone of which is greatly in want of some foliage. The principal open spaces in London, besides Parks and Commons, have an area of nearly 300 acres. They are known as " squares" indiscriminately as long as they are enclosed by straight lines. Parks. Whilst the squares, as a rule, are private property, the parks belong to the public, and are maintained partly at the expense of the Crown, partly at that of the London ratepayers. There are now thirteen of these Parks in London, having a total area of 2,223 acres, and of these the West-end Parks, extending without interruption from Whitehall to Kensington, and covering an area of 788 acres, arc the most important. The stranger will not neglect to pay a visit to Rotten Row, in Hyde Park, on a fine afternoon, between the hours of 4 and 6 o'clock, but he should likewise visit Regent's Park, and the more remote Battersca and Victoria Parks, which are the resort of the working population, particularly on Saturday afternoons. Nor should he neglect to search for the sub-tropical gardens in Battersea Park and Hyde Park, where he will meet with many foreign plants not to be met with in less favoured parts of Europe. In addition to these public Parks there arc several heaths or commons of large extent, amongst which Blackheath, an:i particularly Hampstcad Heath, are well deserving of a visit, the latter affording one of the finest views near London, and one of the most favourable spots for watching the sun rise. At a greater distance from the town are Epping Forest, 60 12.-STREETS AND PARKS. saved from enclosure through the public- spirited interference of the Corporation of London, Richmond Park and Bushey Park. All these places are described in subsequent pages of our guide. Public Monuments. If we bear in mind the vast size of the Metropolis we feel bound to admit that the number of public monuments is comparatively small, nor are many of them distinguished for their ex- cellence as works of Art, indeed there are several which would do discredit to a provincal town. Altogether there exist in London, 63 open air monu- ments, including 4 columns, 5 obelisks, 47 statues, 6 busts and 2 others. Amongst the persons honoured in this public manner, there are 13 Kings and Oueens, (Queen Anne 3 times, Charles II., George II., and George III., each twice). 5 members of the Royal Family (Prince Albert twice); n Statesmen, (Canning, Pitt, Fox, Peel, Cobden, Palmerston, Derby c.), 8 Warriors, (Wellington, thrice, Nelson, Napier, Havelock, Outram, Lord Clyde); 3 Travellers, (Franklin, Speke, and Lieut. Bellot); 2 Engineers, (Stephenson and Brunei); 2 Physicians, (Jenner and Hunter); 2 Painters, (Hogarth and Reynolds); 2 Authors, (Shakespeare and Ben Jonson); 2 Philanthropists, (Guy and Peabody); and 4 Civic dignitaries. There are monuments also in commemo- ration of the Great Fire, of the battle of Chillian-Wallah, and of the Crimean War. Amongst these monuments the following are of interest to the sculptor : By LE SCEUR : Charles I., at Charing Cross, 1633 (Plan F 6). By GRINLING Ginnoxs : James II., Whitehall, 1688 (Plan F 6). By CHRISTOPHER WREN : Monument, 1677 (Plan K 5). By Sir RICHARD WESTMACOTT : Achilles, Hyde Park (Plan D 6) ; Fox, Bloomsbury Square (Plan G 4) ; Canning, Parliament Square (Plan F 7). By NIXON :- William IV., London Bridge, z.y/z7w/zVw(Finsbury Circus), is accessible on liberal terms. 7.7 74- 16.-COMMERCE AND TRADE. Commercial Institutions. London is essentially a commercial city, and, as far as financial business is concerned, it un- doubtedly is the chief place in the world. In addition to the Bank of England, there are 17 Joint Stock Banks and 43 Private Banks, besides numerous branches of Foreign Banks. The Banker's Clearing House, Post Office Court, Lombard Street, is an establishment kept up by the leading private bankers, to enable them to settle the accounts they have one with the other without the payment of coin. Some idea of the extent of business transacted here may be gathered from the fact that in a single week in November, 1874, cheques to the amount of ^920,000,000 changed j hands here. The Royal Exchange offers facilities for the transaction of business between mer- chants and bankers. Lloyd's Subscription Rooms occupy a portion of the upper floor of this building. The dealers and specu- lators in stock have a Stock Exchange of their own, and there exist likewise a Coal Exchange, a Corn Exchange, and a Hop and Malt Exchange. There are also several "coffee-houses" frequented by particular classes of the mercantile com- munity, who are supplied there with the commercial news of which they stand in need. Of this kind are the " Baltic? in Threadneedle Street, for the north of Europe ; the " Jerusalem? Cowper's Court, Cornhill, for the Eastern and Australian trade ; the " Jamaica? St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill, for the West India trade, and others. The Commercial Sale Rooms, in Mincing Lane, have been established for the accommodation of brokers in foreign and colonial produce. No better idea of the commercial activity of London can be obtained than by a run down the river in a steam-boat, and a visit to the Docks which extend along both banks of it. The Docks have all been constructed since 1800, up to which time the cargoes had to be discharged into lighters. They cover an area of 364 acres, besides what is occupied by the wharfs and warehouses surrounding them, and have been con- structed, without exception, by joint-stock companies. On the northern bank of the 75 river are St. Katherine's Docks, the London Docks, the West India Docks, the Mill- wall Docks, the East India Docks, and the Victoria Docks ; on the south bank arc the Commercial Docks. A visit to all these Docks would hardly compensate for the time involved in it, but the London Docks should certainly be visited, if pos- sible, armed with a " Tasting Order" from a wine-merchant, which admits to the extensive wine-vaults. The port of London extends to the mouth of the Thames. In 1874, there belonged to it 2,839 sea-going vessels, (in- clusive of 846 steamers) of 1,142,057 tons burden, besides 201 large fishing boats. 11,512 vessels entered in that year from foreign countries and the colonies, and 30,828 from other parts of the United Kingdom. There arrived thus daily more than loo vessels, not including fishing smacks or coasters in ballast. The value of the Exports of the United Kingdom annually amounts to ^60,000,000; of Imports to ^130,000,000 ; and the Custom's receipts exceed ^10,000,000. Amongst the imports, colonial produce and tea, as well as all kinds of provisions, constitute most im- portant items. Markets. These are less in number than might be expected from the size of the town. Several attempts to establish " Markets" in the suburbs have failed, and even the existing markets, with the excep- tion of that of Covent Garden, can hardly be called paying concerns. The stranger should under no circumstances omit paying a visit to the Metropolitan Meat and Poultry Markets, recently built on Smith- field (Plan H 4), as well as to the great fish-market at Billingsgate (Plan K 6), and to the Metropolitan Cattle Market (Plan G i). These three markets are the property of the Corporation of London, and they contrast most favourably with Covent Garden Market, which yields a large revenue to the wealthy nobleman who is its proprietor. Markets should be visited in the forenoon. Amongst the Bazaars, that of Soho Square will repay a visit during the hours of 4 and 5, when it is crowded with fashionably dressed ladies (Plan F 5). 76 17. GOVERNMENT OP LONDON. PUBLIC WORKS. Local Government of London. In our notice of the local government of the me- tropolis, it is only fit that we should mention the City first, for it alone is in the enjoy- ment of municipal government, all schemes of extending that' privilege to the whole of London having failed hitherto. In 1835, when the remaining municipalities of the kingdom were reformed, the City of Lon- don was the only place of importance which was exempted from the operation of that Act, and it continues to enjoy, up to the present day, its ancient privileges and immunities. Old English customs are preserved there to an extent not known elsewhere, except, perhaps, in the decayed municipalities, whose malad- ministration has lately been exposed by Sir Charles Dilke. The City is divided into 26 wards, and these into 207 precincts, the latter consisting sometimes only of a single street. The inhabitants of each Precinct, whether citizens or not, meet annually a few days before St. Thomas's Day, when the affairs of the precinct are discussed, and the roll of candidates for election as common councilmen and in- questmen is made up. The Wardmote meets on St. Thomas's Day for the election of a common councilman, of 16 inquest- men (charged with the inspection of weights and measures, the removal ot nuisances, c.), and of the other officers of the ward. At this meeting only free- men of the City, who are at the same time on the parliamentary voters' list, have a vote. The freedom of the City may be taken up by sons or daughters of freemen, on their attaining the age of twenty-one, and by apprentices of freemen ; or it may be obtained on payment of a small fee by anyone carrying on business in the City. On the Monday after Twelfth Day the inquestmen of the ward attend before the Court of Aldermen, sitting at the Guild- hall, when the common councilmen chosen are presented. The aldermen are likewise elected by the Wardmote for life, and as a body they form the " Court of Alder- men? jointly with the common councilmen they form the " Court of Common Council" which thus consists of 233 members, 26 of whom are aldermen. Both these courts, as well as the " Common Hall " of the 77 Livery (see below), are presided over by the Lord Mayor, whose election takes place annually on the 29th September. As a rule the senior alderman is chosen for that office, the privilege of nomination being vested in Common Hall, that of election in the Court of Aldermen, and the same individual generally holds this office only once in his life, though there is no strict rule to that effect. Whittington, it is well known, was " thrice Lord Mayor, of London," and quite recently Alderman Cubitt held that office for two successive years (1861 and 1862). The election is formally approved by the Lord Chancellor on behalf of the Crown. On the 8th of November the Lord Mayor elect is sworn in before the Court of Aldermen, and in- vested with the insignia of his office, and on die day after, " Lord Mayor's Day," he proceeds in state to the Court of Exche- quer in Westminster, where he takes an City, the procession is joined by the judges, Her Majesty's ministers, the foreign ambassadors, and other distin- guished persons, who, together with the oath of allegiance. On his return to the members, are entertained at a magnificent banquet at the Guildhall, the expenses of which are shared by the Lord Mayor and the two sheriff's. The Lord Mayor holds the first place in the City next to the Queen ; he is an ex officio member of the Privy Council, a judge of the Central Griminal Court, a Justice of the Peace of the metropolitan counties, Lord -Lieu- tenant and Admiral of the Port of Lon- don, and conservator of the Thames. His official residence is the Mansion House, and he is expected to keep up there the traditional reputation of the City for hospitality. His annual stipend amounts to ,10,000. The City officers are appointed by the Court of Aldermen, the Court of Common Council, or the Livery. The two Sheriffs exercise authority in London and Middle- sex, and are elected by the Livery on Midsummer Day. Each sheriff chooses a solicitor as undcr-shcriff. This office is honourable but expensive, for the sheriff is expected to give annually a number of d i n ners. The Recorder of London (sal ar y ,3,000) is the chief City judge, and 17.-GOVERNMENT OF LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS. official "orator" on public occasions. The Common-serjeant (salary .2,550), the judge of the City of London Court, and the assistant-judge of the Mayor's Court, are the principal officers of justice. The Chambculain is chosen by the Livery, and acts as City 'Treasurer. The annual income of the Corporation of London amounted in 1874 to ,232,868, of which ,96,950 was derived from rents, &c., ;i 6,028 from capital invested, ,39,392 from market rents. The total receipts, however, for local purposes of every kind, exceed ,1,000,000 annually. The City Companies take a large share in the government of the City. Most of them date from the I3th or I4th century, though they spring, no doubt, from the Guilds of Saxon times. Originally these Companies were associations of persons carrying on the same trade, but they are so no longer, with the exception of the Apothecaries, the Goldsmiths, the Gun- makers, and Stationers, who are still charged with the exercise of certain func- tions in connection with the trades wKich they represent. The total number of Companies still in existence is 79 ; of these 40 have halls of their own, and 73 are " Livery Companies ;" that is, a cer- tain number of the freemen belonging to them are members of the Common Hall (see above). The order of prece- dence of these Companies is fixed by law. The so-called twelve great Companies are the Mercers, the Grocers, the Drapers, the Fishmongers, the Goldsmiths, Skin- ners, Merchant Tailors, Haberdashers, Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and Clothworkers. The total income of the several Companies arising from endow- ments was stated, some years ago, to amount to ,99,000 ; their entire income, however, is much greater, for not only do they levy heavy fees for taking up freedom, but they also make a charge on admission to the Livery and to cer- tain offices of honour. A large portion of the income is expended in feasting, and strangers should endeavour to obtain admission to one of these dinners, when they will be able to witness many old customs, now generally fallen into disuse. | Jt must be said, however, that all the j 79 Companies support charitable institutions, that several amongst them maintain ex- cellent schools, and' that if they do feast, they do so at their own expense. Several of the halls are deserving a visit, notably those of the Goldsmiths, Fishmongers, and Armourers. The Metropolis at large is not yet in the enjoyment of municipal institutions, but is governed by 38 Local Boards or Vestries, 30 Boards of Guardians for the adminis- tration of the poor laws, a Metropolitan Board of Works, a School Board, and several other bodies, wholly or in part elected by the ratepayers. It has been calculated that these Boards count no less than 8,073 members, supported by an army of local officials. In 1873 tn e local expenditure of the metropolis (including the City) amounted to ,6,619,000, the local indebtness to ,21,708,402. The rateable value of the house property was estimated, in 1876, at .23,276,000 ; in 1856 it was only ,11,283,000. The Metropolitan Board of Works is the most important of these governing bodies. It is charged with the main- tenance of the main drainage, the control over the formation of the streets, the supervision of the gas and water supply, the maintenance of the fire-brigade, of the parks and commons, and other duties. Its 44 members are elected by the Cor- poration of the City of London, and by 38 parishes or local districts, and their meetings are presided over by a chairman appointed by Government, and in receipt of a salary of 2,000 a year. Amongst the special works carried out by this Board are the main drainage of London, the embankment of the Thames, the for- mation of Queen Victoria-street, c. Its estimated expenditure for 1876 amounts to ,840,017, and its consolidated stock on the 3ist December, 1875, amounted to 8,011,011. The Main Drainage of London was carried out between 1859 and 1875 by Sir J. W. Bazalgette, the Engineer of the Board, at an expense of ^4,500,000. There are now 254 miles of main sewers, and 776 miles of local sewers, and the sewage is pumped into the Thames by powerful steam engines erected at the So 17. GOVERNMENT OP LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS. Abbey Mills, near Barking Creek, and at Crossness Point, on the opposite bank of the river. The Embankment of tlie Thames , another great work for which we are indebted to this Board, cost ,2,403,209. The FIRE BRIGADE is an institution of comparatively modern origin. Formerly each parish was bound to keep two engines, but their inefficiency induced the Fire Insurance Companies to provide engines of their own, and these, in 1833, were combined into a Fire Brigade. This brigade is now under the government of the Board of Works. It consists of 400 men, with 29 steam engines, 86 manual engines and 129 fire escapes. There are 49 fire stations connected by telegraphs. The Insurance Companies maintain a Salvage Corps in addition. The average number of fires is about 30 every week. The POLICE, as organized at the present day, were established in 1829 by Sir Robert Peel, and superseded a very inefficient body of watchmen and constables. The City Police (784 men), is under the corporation, that of the remainder of the Metropolis (i; 2 4i men, 280 horses), under the Home Office. The total expenditure for the maintenance of the Police slightly exceeds one million pounds sterling a year. The head-quarters of the Police are at Scotland Yard (Plan F 6). WATER SUPPLY. In former times the citizens of London trusted to the Thames for their supply of water, and to the sparkling rivulets which entered it near the city, such as the Wai-brook, and Old- bourne (Holborn), long since converted into sewers. At a later period the water of certain wells (Clerkenwell, Holywell), was led through pipes to so-called con- duits. But in course of time these means of supply became exhausted, and in 1581 an ingenious German, Peter Morrys (Maurice), was empowered to set up a water-wheel under one of the arches of London Bridge. This wheel was set in motion by the tidal current and worked a pump which forced the water through pipes into the streets and houses. These water-works turned out a great success, andthey disappeared only with old London Bridge in 1831. In 1606 the City had \ Si ' I obtained an Act of Parliament for bring- ing a stream of pure water from Hertford- shire into London, but frightened at the magnitude of the task which they had undertaken, they were only too happy when Hugh Myddleton undertook to carry out the scheme at his own risk. This was the origin of the " New River Company," one of the most successful undertakings in the world. The "York Buildings Waterworks" were established next, in 1691. They drew their supply of water from the Thames, near Charing-cross, and existed until 1829. After a lapse of 32 years the " Chelsea Water-works" were established, and to them we owe the introduction of iron water pipes, as well as of filtering basins (1829). In 1849 the Metropolis was supplied with 44,383,329 gallons of water daily, in 1875 eight com- panies supplied 116,138,787 gallons, or 337 gallons daily per head of the population. About one half of this supply is taken from the Thames. There are many shallow wells, but their water is mostly unfit for use, as well as artesian wells in breweries and other large establishments. The Drink- ing Fountains and Cattle Troughs in the streets have been provided by a private association (Address, 1 1 I, Victoria-street, Westminster). PUBLIC BATHS AND WASHHOUSES may fitly be mentioned in connection with the water-works, for without them, they could not exist. They originated in 1844 in a meeting held at the Mansion House. The first public baths were opened in Goulston-square, in 1847, and an Act of Parliament, passed soon afterwards, enabled parishes to erect such establish- ments at the public expense. No less than thirteen parochial baths are now in existence. Most of them supply warm and cold private baths, plunge baths, and accommodation for washing and drying clothes, and there can be no doubt of the social and sanitary utility of these institu- tions. One of the most recent and best arranged of these institutions is that of . St. Pancras (Plan F 2). LIGHTING. In 1807 Mr. Winsor, a German, experimentally lit up one side of Pall Mall with gas, and his supporters were embodied, 1872, as the "Chartered 17 .-GOVERNMENT OF LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS. Gas Company." At the present time there are nine companies, having a capital of ^10,605,793. In 1874 they consumed 1,445,000 tons of coal, and manufactured 14,065,428,000 cubic feet of gas, of which no less than i ,232,000,000 were lost through leakage on the way from the gas works to the houses of the customers. The com- panies are bound to supply gas of a certain standard at a price not yielding above 10 per cent, profit on their paid-up capital. CEMETERIES. The ancient Britons and Romans, as well as the Saxons who succeeded them, buried their dead outside the walls, or at all events at some distance from the dwellings of the inhabitants. In the middle ages, however, it became customary to bury in cemeteries attached to the churches, or even to deposit the coffins in the vaults of the latter. The first suburban cemetery of more recent times is that of Bunhill Fields, which was opened in 1665, and is deserving a visit on account of the tombs of many pro- minent dissenters who are buried there. It is, however, a suburban cemetery no longer, and like all the smaller cemeteries ; has now been closed for a number of ; years. The modern cemeteries of London j are at some distance from the town, and have been created, since 1832, by private companies, who are controlled by Acts of Parliament. The most important amongst them are those of Kensal Green, towards j the north-west, of Highgate, towards the north (with fine view over London), and of Norwood, towards the south of the metropolis. These three should be visited, and have been described in chapters 44, 46 and 48. ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. Lon- don is the seat of the highest tribunals of the j Kingdom, and a building worthy of them is now being erected in the Strand. For i the present, the " Court of Appeal" sits in i Lincoln's Inn, and the various Divisions of j the newly-erected " High Court of Jus- tice" sit in the Courts abutting upon Westminster Hall, in Chancery-lane, Lin- coln's Inn, or at Lambeth Palace, (Court of Arches). The Central Criminal Court, \ Old Bailey (Plan H 5), which exercises a j jurisdiction extending over the whole of j Middlesex, and portions of Kent, Surrey, 33 and Essex, must be looked upon as a branch of this High Court, and is presided over by two judges from Westminster, assisted by the Recorder and Common Serjeant of the City. The usual Quarter Sessions for the City of London, and the Borough of Southwark, are held at the Session's house, Old Bailey ; those for Middlesex, at the Sessions House, Clerk- enwell ; those for Surrey, at the Sessions House, Newington Causeway ; and those for the City of Westminster, at the Guild- hall, near Westminster Abbey. The minoi civil jurisdiction is entrusted to the Lord Mayor's Court held at the Guildhall, under the Recorder and Common Serjeant, and to the City of London Court, as far as the City is concerned ; to a Court of Burgesses for the City of Westminster ; and to eleven Metropolitan County Courts. In addition to these there are 10 Coroner's Courts, 2 City Police Courts, (one presided over by the Lord Mayor, another by an Alderman), and 10 Metropolitan Police Courts. Amongst the latter, that in Bow-street (Plan G 5), is most deserving a visit. Nearly all these courts are presided over by paid judges or stipendiary magistrates, and where this is not the case, the chair- man enjoys the advice of a legally-trained assistant judge or clerk. In connection with the Courts for the administration of justice, we may mention the Inns of Court, which have been the head-quarters of English lawyers from very remote times. There are four of these Inns, viz : The Inner Temple and Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn and Gray's Inn, who hold the privilege of admitting students to the Bar. Not many years ago it was sufficient if the candidate paid the customary fees, attended the term dinners a prescribed number of times, was educa- ted a trifle in advance of ordinary men, and recommended by one of the benchers ; but it is necessary no\v that he should pass an examination, and the establishment of a Law School in connection with these Inns, has been taken in hand. In con- nection with them there are eight so-called Inns of Chancery, which are used as chambers, principally by solicitors and attorneys. Each Inn of Court is governed by " Benchers/' who fill up vacancies in. 84 18. -CLUBS AND PLACES OP AMUSEMENT. their own body from amongst barristers of at least seven years standing. There are eleven Prisons in London, amongst which Newgate (Plan H 5), is the most ancient. To persons interested in the subject, a visit to Milbank Convict Prison (Plan F 8), or to the Model Prison at Pentonville (Plan G i), the former built in the beginning of this century, according to the plan of Jeremy Bentham, the latter constructed in 184042. The old Debtors' Prisons of the Fleet and Marshalsea, as well as the Bridewell (thus named after a well dedicated to St. Bridget), do not any longer exist. 18. CLUBS AND PLACES OP AMUSEMENT. CLUES. The modern clubs of London are very different institutions from those which existed during the i8th century. At that time they were convivial meetings, at a public tavern, confined to narrow circles of friends, whilst now they number their members by thousands, occupy mag- nificent palaces, and levy entrance-fees and subscriptions which would have been be- yond the means of most of the frequenters of the Clubs of olden times. In their character the existing Clubs, nearly one hundred in number, differ widely. Many of them are the property of the members, others (Proprietory Clubs) have been established by speculators, by whom the admission of members is relegated to a committee. No member can be admitted except he be " clubable," but in many instances, particular qualifications are-re- quired in addition tathis. There are clubs for military and naval men, for medical men, for lawyers, for travellers, for univer- sity- graduates, for members of certain political parties, &c. The finest Club- houses are to be met with in Pall Mall and vicinity, and several amongst them are architectural ornaments to the Metropolis. The following are some of the Leading Clubs. Name of Club. Army nnd Navy Athentbum Carlton Conservative East India United Service Junior Carlton . Junior United Service > aval and Military . Oriental Oxfcml and Cambridge Keform Travellers' 1'nited Service . United University Whitehall . Club House. Pall Mall Waterloo Place 94, Pall Mall 74,. St. James's Street St. James's Square Pall Mall Charles Street, St. James's SH, Piccadilly 1H, Hanover Square 71, Pall Mafl 14, Pall Mall 10f>, Pall Mall 1 Ui, Pall Mall Pull Mall East Parliament Streei The above were established between 1818 & 1860 they charge an entrance fee of from 28 7s., aud an annual subscription of from 7 to 10 guineas In addition to the above Clubs of the Upper and Middle Classes, there have been established within the last few years no less than 37 Working Men's Clubs, which offer conveniences similar to those of the more expensive clubs. In connec- tion with them there frequently exist even- ing classes, and the religious element is sometimes more obtrusive than desirable. As a fair specimen of such a Club, we may instance the " Grosyenor," 200, Bucking- ham Palace-road (Plan E 7). In conclusion, there ought to be men- tioned the so-called Ltiscussion Clubs, which meet at public-houses, and debate various subjects of public interest in ;i friendly manner. A club of this kind meets on Tuesdays and Fridays, at 57, Fleet-street ; another on Saturdays, at 8 p.m., at u, Shoe-lane. Strictly speaking, these are no Clubs at all, for there re no sort of membership, and any stranger may take part in the debate going on, the only condition being that he should submit to the ruling of the chairman. AMUSEMENTS. A glance at the ptoces of amusements emunerated (chap 8) will, convince the reader that London is well supplied in this respect. As far as places like the Crystal Palace, the Alexandra Palace and the New Aquarium are con- cerned, no other city in the world can rival her. There are, besides, public gardens of smaller extent,, numerous Con- cert and Music Halls,, and over forty Theatres. Dramatic .performances in England assumed a purely secular character at the time- of the reformation. Regular play-houses were first built during the reign of Queen- Elizabeth. They were octagon in shapey gallery and stage were covered in, but the pit . was. roofless to 86 19.-HOW TO SEE LONDON. admit the light, and the performances were carried on during the day. In 1640 the " long parliament " suspended all plays as inconsistent in a time of public calamity, but they were revived with renewed ardour on the restoration, and a visit to a play-house was looked upon then as an act of loyalty. The oldest amongst the existing Theatres, Drury-lane, dates from the year 1663, the first actress (Nell G wynne) made her appearance in 1662, and the first Italian Opera was per- formed in 1705. Theatres require a licence from the Lord Chamberlain, and the pieces which they wish to perform must be submitted to an " Examiner of Plays." No Theatre is subsidized by government, or from local rates. WALKS & BJDT3S TELROUGKE LONDON. 19.-HOW TO SEE LONDON. III. WALKS AND RIDES THROUGH LONDON. The tastes of travellers differ so widely, and the time at their disposal, must necessarily influence any scheme of sightseeing to so large an extent, as to render it impossible to lay down a plan for seeing London, which can be expected to meet fully the wishes of all travellers, or even of a majority amongst them. In our General Description of London, we have already drawn attention to those buildings and institutions, which may be supposed to interest particular classes of travellers, and further information will be found in our directory (p. 21.) It will hardly be possible to see every thing really worth seeing in less than three weeks, but sightseeing of this class, though it may make the travellers acquainted with many nooks and corners of the great Metropolis, which are but rarely visited by the town-born " Cockney," leads after all to a superficial knowledge. To know London thoroughly it is necessary to reside there for some time, to enter its society, to share in its work, its pleasures and its griefs. There are certain things which a stranger must see, however short his stay. The following walks, which it is just possible to get through in a couple of days, will take him past the principal sights of London proper. In the arrangement of our Walks we have supposed the visitor to reside near Charing Cross. xst Day. Charing Cross (National Gallery), down Whitehall to the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, and back along the ThamesJ Embankment and the New-street, to Charing Cross. Stroll through the West-end Parks, with peeps into Belgrave-square, and some of the streets of Belgravia, Mayfair and Tyburnia. 2nd Day. Charing Cross Strand Fleet- street, (Temple, St. Paul's Cathedral) Bank Monument London Bridge, (9.30 in morn- ing, and 4 to 5 in evening best time), Lower Thames-street, (Billingsgate, Custom House) to Tower London Docks. Back to Tower and with "Kilburn" Omnibus past the Bank to Christ's Hospital, where descend. Smithfield Market (Metropolitan Meat Market, St. Bartholomew's). Holborn Viaduct. Peep into Lincoln's Inn High Holbom British Museum. Then take any Omnibus going West, as far as Regent Circus. Regent-street Piccadilly St. James's-street Pall Mall Charing Cross. But in addition to this, some of the prin- cipal sights near London should be visited. The following is a very hurried arrange- ment : ^rd Day. Steamer to Woolwich, thence on foot to Greenwich, and by rail back to London Bridge, (see chapter 43). In the afternoon to the Crystal Palace, (see chapter 44). 4th Day.KQVf, Richmond, Hampton Court (see chapter 45). $th Day. Windsor and Virginia Water, (see chapter 47). This programme is sufficiently extended to fill a week, for the traveller must con- sider himself fortunate if his sight seeing is not occasionally interrupted by rain, nor can he count the days of arrival or of departure as full days. A Fortnight in London, A far more 19. HOW TO SEE LONDON. satisfactory arrangement can be made if the visitor devotes a fortnight to the metropolis and its vicinity. In the arrange- ment of our routes we have specially considered the requirements of this class of travellers. Our routes are arranged in a consecutive order; that is, the visitor may begin on the first page of part III. and walk right through until he reaches the last. The majority of the buildings and museums have been described in the course of our walks or rides, and only the most important amongst them, an inspection of which takes up a consider- able amount of time, have been referred to separate chapters. A capital oppor- tunity for witnessing the general features of London, and the life pulsating through its streets, is afforded by a ride on the top of an omnibus. Our " Criss-cross Track through London " described below, contains hints on such a journey, which may easily be performed in a day, and has been arranged with the special view of taking the visitors into parts of the town to which our " Walks and Rides " do not extend. A few hours on Saturday evening may profitably be spent in Whitechapel and Shoreditch, in the east end (Plan K 4 and L 5,) or in the Lower Marsh and New Cut of Lambeth (Plan H 7,) which are then crowded by the working classes, and these excursions may be combined with a visit to one or more peoples' Theatres and Music Halls. ist Day. Stroll through London and " Criss-Cross Track" (see chapter 20). 2nd Day. Trafalgar Square to Westminster Abbey (chapter 21). Chelsea, Battersea and Cremorne (chapter 22). 3rd Day. West-end Parks Kensington Museum (chapter 23). 4th Day. St. James's (chapter 24). Regents Park and Zoological Gardens (chapter 25). 5th Day. Belgravia May fair and Tybur- nia, with an excursion to Kensal Green Ceme- tery (chapter 26). CENTRAL LONDON. 6th Day. Covent Garden Lincoln's Inn Foundling Hospital King's Cross Univer- sity College Russell-square British Museum, &c. (chapter 27). CITY AND E.AST END, &C. 7th Day. Strand Fleet-street St. Paul's Cathedral Bank (chapters 28 and 29). Guildhall - Smithfield Holborn Viaduct. Bunhill Cemetery, &c. (chapter 30). Queen Victoria-street and Thames Embankment to Charing Cross {chapter 30). 8th Day.'Qy Rail to Blackfriars, thence along Lower Thames-street to Tower. London Docks. Tower-street and Cannon-street to Bank (chapters 32 and 33). qth Day. Over Westminster Bridge Lam- bfeth Palace Bethlehem Hospital Obelisk St. Olaves, Borough of Southwark Barclay and Perkins's Brewery Over London Bridge to the Bank (chapter 34). Bank to Victoria Park and back (chap. 35). A Saturday would be most favourable for this trip. ENVIRONS OF LONDON. /o//; Day. Woolwich and Greenwich (chapter 43). nth Day. Dulwich, Norwood and Crystal Palace (chapter 44). isth Day. Hampstead, Highgate and Alexandra Palace (chapter 46). ijth Day. Kew, Richmond and Hampton Court (chapter 45). 1 4th Day. Windsor (chapter 47). Several more days may be spent profit- ably as a matter of course. A somewhat minute inspection of the Museums, for in- stance, requires more time than we have allowed, and Brighton, Gravesend, Dork- ing, and other charming spots within easy reach, hold out great inducements to visi- tors (see chapter 49). 20. A CRISS-CROSS THACK. LONDON. 4@- The "Track'-' described has a length of 48 miles, and may be performed partly by steamer, partly on the outside of an omnibus, and to a very small extent on foot. We shall subsequently have an opportunity of inspecting many of the streets and public buildings more minutely ; where this is not the case, and an inter- ruption of the journey appears desirable, we have drawn attention to the fact. (A). Charing Cross to Blackwall, S}4 miles. Walk down to the Chai ing Cross Bridge, and take a steamer for Blackwall. They start every half hour, beginning at 8.10 a.m., and perform the journey in about one hour. (B). Blackball to St. Paul's (Plan I 5), 4^ miles. Walk to the " Globe Tavern/' Brunswick-street, Blackwall, and take omnibus "Black-Mall" (dark blue). We now start upon a journey which takes us from the extreme east of London, through the centre of the City, to the extreme West. The East India Docks are on our right ; the West India Docks on our left. We pass the church of St. Stephen's and the Poplar Recreation Grounds, and im- mediately beyond Limehouse Church (built 1712-24 by Hawkesmoor), we cross the Limehouse Canal, and then the Regent's Canal. Commercial-road East brings us to Whitechapel-road, and soon afterwards we reach Aldgate, the site of one of the ancient City gates. Our omni- bus continues its journey through Leadcn- hall-street to the Bank, and thence through Cheapside to St. ^Paul's, where we alight. (c). St. Paul's to Hammersmith (Plan beyond A 8), 7 miles. Omnibus, " Ham- mersmith " (red). This omnibus takes us down Ludgate-hill, through Fleet-street and the Strand to Charing-cross, and up Regent-street to Piccadilly-circus. Soon after the view opens on the left over Green Park, with the towers of Westminster peeping out above the trees. We reach Hyde Park Corner, and ride along the southern side of Hyde Park, from which we are separated, for some distance, by private houses and cavalry barracks. Belgravia, one of the most fashionable quarters of London, and Bromptcn, are on our left. We pass between the mag- nificent Albert Memorial 2xA Albert Hall,. and enter Kensington. The new parish church was built by Sir G. Scott. Hol- land House on the right (interruption of the journey hardly to be recommended). Holland House was built in 1607 by John Thorpe, for Sir Walter Cope, and passed by marriage into the possession of Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, (beheaded 1649, for aiding Charles I.) The widow of Robert Rich, in 1716, married Addison, the poet, who resided here until his death. Subsequently the house was sold to Henry Fox, father of Charles James Fox, and the first Lord Holland of that name. He died in 1774, and during his life, Holland House was the meeting place of Whig politi- cians, poets, painters and scholars. We continue our journey. At Brook Green, on the right, there is a Roman Catholic convent with school. We enter Hammersmith, and descend on reaching the corner of Gold Hawk-road. (D.) Hammersmith to Bank, j% miles. It is necessary now to walk to Starch Green (half a mile), where we find an- omnibus " Bayswater " (light green), which takes us back to the Bank, along one of the main arteries of London. We pass through Shepherd's Bush and the not very inviting High-street of Notting- hill, and then skirt the northern side of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. At the Marble Arch we enter Oxford-street, one of the principal business streets of London, which is crossed by Regent- street at the Oxford-circus. Our ride takes us through Hoi born, and we cross Farringdon-street on a viaduct, one of the most important metropolitan improve- ments effected by the Board of Works. Newgate Prison is on our right, Christ's Hospital and further on the Genera! Post Office on the left. Cheapside brings us to the Bank. (E). Bank to Hoiloivay (Plan, beyond G i), 4 miles. We mount either the omnibus " Favorite" (dark green), or, and this is preferable, walk to Moorgate-strcct (^s mile), and there take tram-car "Arch- way, Angel, and Moorgate" (dark blue). Moorgate-strect leads to Finsbury-squarc. A little beyond it, on the left, are the London Militia Barracks, with entrance to the Artillery Company's ground, and Bunhill Fields Burial Ground. ] ooking, 92 20.-A CRISS-CROSS TRACK.-LONDON. down Old-street, on the left, we see the front of Sf. Luke's Lunatic Asylum. We enter City-road '(in it the "Eagle Tavern," a popular place of entertainment), cross the City Basin of the Regent's Canal, and reach the " Angel," one of the centres of omnibus traffic. Thence our road leads through Islington (the insignificant statue on Islington-green represents Sir Hugh Myddleton, the creator of the New River 'Water Works ; the Agricultural Hall is close by), pass through Islington and the Holloway-road, and descend on reaching the " Nag's Head," at the corner of Seven .Sisters'-road. (F). Holloway to Euston Road, (Plan E .3), 3 miles. We mount a tram car, u Hol- loway, Brecknock, Euston" (green). We ride along Camden Park-road. The fine castellated building on the right is the City of London Prison, built 1853-55, by Running. On reaching the "Brecknock Arms," we break the journey in order to pay a flying visit to the Cattle Market, -which is close by. The Metropolitan Cattle Markci, which was formerly held on Smithfield, was removed to its present site in 1855. It covers an area of 30 acres, of which about 15 are enclosed. A clock-tower, with telegraph and banker's offices rises in the centre ; a public house occupies each corner, and slaughter-houses and stables surround it. There is standing room for 7,600 beasts, 40,000 sheep, 1,400 calves and 900 pigs, -which far exceeds the present demand. The market was built by the City (architect, Mr. Bunning), at a cost of nearly .500,000, and the corporation levies a toll of id. for each Least, and of 2d. for 20 sheep. The market receipts, in 1874, were 37,352, the charges for its maintenance amounted to 34,743. The principal market day is Monday. A horse market is held on Fridays. We resume our journey. Passing be- neath a railway bridge and crossing, for the third time, the Regent's Canal, we reach the " Britannia" and " Mother Red Cap," two well-known public-houses in Camden Town, and travel thence along High-street, (poor statue of Cobclen), and Hampstead-road to Euston-road, where we leave the car. (G). Euston Road to Victoria Station, (Plan E 7), 3 miles. Take either of the yellow omnibus, except the one inscribed " Camden Town, Duke of St. Alb arts" We pass through Tottenham Court Road. On the right, the chapel built in 1756, for J. Whitfield, one of the founders of Metho- dism. J. Bacon, the sculptor, lies buried in it. We cross Oxford-street, and enter St. Giles's, one of the poorest parishes of London. The fine church on the right was built in 1753, by Flitcroft. Flaxman, the sculptor, is buried in it. We pass the " Seven Dials," and finally reach Trafalgar- square, after which we continue our journey along Whitehall, past Westminster Abbey, and along Victoria-street to the Victoria Station. (G.) Victoria Station to New Cross Gate, (Plan N 10), 5 miles. We mount the tram car near the Station, and take a through ticket for New Cross Gate, (6d). The Car follows the Vauxhall Bridge-road. Vauxhall Bridge is crossed in an ordinary omnibus. In the course of our journey we pass the Kennington Oval, a favourite cricket ground. At St. Mark's Church we are close to Kennington gate (now re- moved), where the roads to Brixton and Clapham bifurcate. Kennington Park lies to the left. We continue along the Camberwell New-road as far as Camber- well Green, where we are, transferred to another Car, "Peckham and Westminster? (brown). On the right, Camberwell Church (architect, Sir G. Scott). The car takes us through Peckham and Hatcham to our destination. (H.) New 'Cross Gate to the Elephant and Castle (Plan G 7), 3 miles. We wait for a white omnibus " Greenwich and Westminster? We pass along Old Kent-road. On the left, in a side street, the Licensed Victiialler? Asylum (Plan M 10). Then over the Surrey Canal, and through New Kent-road to the " Elephant and Castle Tavern," (Plan I 8.) (l). Elephant and Castle to Charing Cross, 1 3^ miles, omnibus, " Waterloo? (blue). We pass along London-road to the Obelisk (where there is a School for the Blind), and then along Waterloo-road, over Waterloo Bridge and along the Strand to Charing-cross. 93 94 21. TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Ig^f Royal College of Physicians. Admis- sion by order of a Fellow. United Service Institution. Order of a member. Whitehall Chapel. Divine service, Sundays II to 12.30; shown daily on payment of gratuity. Houses of Parliament. Saturdays, 104. Westminster Abbey. Daily. Aquarium. Daily. Trafalgar Square has been called by Sir Robert Peel the finest site in Europe, but we doubt whether the most has been made of its undoubted advantages. If we take up our position in front of the National Gallery, which bounds it on the north, we command a view of Charing Cross, of Whitehall, with the Towers of Westminster rising in the distance, and of the new Thames Embankment approach, a street to which Northumberland House, one of the few ancient mansions of the nobility of which London could boast, fell a sacrifice, in 1875. Northumberland House was built by Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, and in 1642 it became the property of Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, whose lion crest, sur- mounting the gateway, formed one of the land- marks of London. In 1875, ^ was so ^ to tlle Board of Works for ,497,000. The Nelson Column occupies the centre of the square, and is flanked by statues of General Sir Charles Napier (by G. Adams), and of General Havelock (by Bchnes). An equestrian statue of George IV. (by Chantrey), occupies a pedimert in the upper part of the square. The Nelson Column is dedicated to one of England's greatest naval heroes, whose destruc- tion of the combined French and Spanish fleets at Trafalgar (in 1805), was accomplished at the sacrifice of his own life. The column de-. signed by Railton, rises to a height of 145 feet. It is of Portland stone, with a bronze capital cast from French guns,- surmounted by,a statue of Nelson, 17 feet in height (by E. H. Baily). Four colossal lions, (by Sir Edwin Landseer), occupy the salient pedestals at its base. The four bas-reliefs represent the battle of the Nile (by Woodington) ; the bombardment of Copenhagen (by Ternouth) ; the battle of St. Vincent (by Watson) ; and the Death of Nel- son (by Carew). The monument cost above 50,000, most of which was raised by public subscription. i 95 Amongst the buildings surrounding the Square, that of the National Gallery is the most extensive. It was erected in 1832-38, by W. Wilkins, and is certainly unde- serving so fine a position (see chap. 42). St. Martins Church, in the north- eastern corner of the square, with its fine portico and well-proportioned Tower, is looked upon as Gibbs' masterpiece, and was built 1721-26. The portico and well- proportioned tower are much admired. Amongst the persons buried in this church were Dobson, the painter ; Roubiliac, the sculptor ; Nell Gwynne, the mistress of Charles II, and Jack Sheppard, the notorious thief. The Royal College of Physicians, on the opposite side of the square, with a fine portico towards Pall Mall East, was built by Smirke, and opened in 1835. It con- tains a few portraits and busts of celebrated medical men. The College was founded in 1518, by Linacre, physician to Henry VIII., and authorised by letters patent to grant certifi- cates to medical practicioners, a privilege still exercised. Persons desirous of becoming members or licentiates of the college are obliged to pnss an examination. The "Fel- lows " are the governing body, and recruit themselves from amongst the members. CHARING CROSS, the triangular space between Trafalgar-square and Whitehall, is named after a village, Charing, which has long since disappeared. In it stood the last of the crosses erected by Edward I. 96 21.-TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. to mark the spot where the body of his Queen, Eleanor, was rested on its way to Westminster Abbey. A reproduction of this Cross lias been placed in front of Charing Cross Station. The equestrian statue of Charles I. (by Hubert Le Sceur) was cast in 1633, but sold by Parliament to a brazier to be broken up. It was preserved, however, and set up after the Restoration, in 1676, at the expense of the Crown. It occupies the spot where the " Regicides," who had voted for the king's execution, were cruelly tortured to death. WHITEHALL, the widest street in Lon- don, and with its many public buildings certainly one of the finest, owes its name to an old palace, originally the property of Cardinal Wolsey, but given by him to Henry VIII., and down to William III. the ordinary town residence of the kings of England. James I. proposed to rebuild this palace on a magnificent scale ; but only the Banqueting Hall was completed, and its beauty makes us all the more regret that the design of Inigo Jones was not carried out in its entirety. In the reign of William III. the old palace was destroyed by fire, and the king removed to St. James's Palace ; but royal procla- mations, by a fiction which foreigners will hardly be able to appreciate, are still dated from Whitehall. A proposition for widening the street as far as the Houses of Parliament, and con- centrating in it the principal- government offices, was submitted in 1868, and is now in course of execution, at an estimated cost of 3,32 1,910. The first large building on the right is the Admiralty, erected in 1726, separated from the street by a fine screen, the work of the brothers Adam (1776). On the opposite side of the street is a gateway which leads into Scotland-yard, the head-quarters of the metropolitan police. The Horse Guards, a picturesque pile (architect, Kent, 1753), are the head- quarters of several military departments, and owe their curious name to the mounted guards performing the duties of sentries. The gateway beneath the clock tower leads into St. James's Park; walk 1 97 through and then return to Whitehall. Opposite the Horse Guards stands Whitehall Chapel, the Banqueting Hall of the new Palace of Whitehall referred to above, which is looked upon as one of the most successful works of Inigo Jones (1619-22), who first introduced Palladio's style of architecture into England. The hall is no ft. long, 55 ft. wide, and 55 ft. high. The paintings on the ceiling are by Reubens, and represent the apotheosis of James I. From an opening made in the wall of this building Charles I., in 1642, stepped upon the scaffold. The passage to the left of Whitehall Chapel leads to Whitehall-yard, in which stands the United Service Institution, the property of a professional society of offi- cers of the Army and Navy, established in 1831, and numbering more than 4,000 members. It contains a library of 20,000 volumes, and an interesting museum. In the latter will be found a valuable collec- tion of arms (swords of Cromwell and Nelson), models of the battles of Trafalgar, Waterloo (with 190,000 figures !), of the siege of Sebastopol, and others. Passing in rear of Whitehall chapel we enter Whitehall-gardens, with a fine statue of James II. (jby Grinling Gibbons). In the house with bow-windows (behind the trees) Sir Robert Peel died in 1850. We now return to Whitehall. The house next to the Horse Guards, with a portico, is Lord Dover's town residence, and next to it stand the Treasury biiildings, thus called because they contain the offices of the First Lord of the Treasury, or Prime Minister. The core of this building is old, and its present fagade was fitted to it in 1846-7 by Sir Charles Barry. Opposite to the Treasury buildings, separated from the street by a garden, stands Montagii House (architect, W. Burn, 1859-62), the town residence of the Duke of Buccleuch. Downing Street, in which there are the offices of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, separates the Treasury from the New Government Offices, which were erected 1868-74 (architect, Sir G. Scott), and ex- tend from Parliament-street (the southern continuation of Whitehall) to St. James's- 98 21.-TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. park. The principal front towards the former is 317 feet long, is stately, of fine proportions and richly ornamented. The great quadrangle is one of the finest in London, and should be inspected. (It is at all times open to the public). The Court of the India office has been decorated in the most lavish manner by Digby Wyatt. This building affords accommodation to the Home, Colonial, Foreign and India Offices, the latter occupying the portion facing St. James's Park. The architect's original plans, were gothic, but were set aside by Lord Palmerston, whilst Mr. Ayrton, unfortunately Minister of Public "Works at the time the building was erected, "impatient of ideas of beauty " involving an expenditure of money, shore the new Italian design of some of its most distinctive features. In the narrow King-street, which opens here (but is about to disappear) died Spenser, the author of " Faerie Queen," from "lack of bread." We now continue through Parliament- street (on the left, back of the National Opera House) until we reach the open space near the Houses of Parliament arid Westminster Abbey, viz., Parliament Square. 1 The Houses of Parliament and West- minster Abbey will be described in chap. 36 and 37. The street on the left leads to Westminster bridge and the Thames embankment, that on the right to St. James's Park. On the square are statues of J. Canning (by R. Westmacott), Palmers- ton (by Foley) and Lord Derby. After an inspection of the Houses of Parliament we proceed in the direction of Westminster Abbey, which is concealed in part, by St. Margaret's Church, an insignificent building, dating from the time of Edward IV., and restored in 1805. - It contains a stained window intended by the Town Council of Dordrecht as a present for Henry VII., but only completed after his death. Henry VIII. took offence at it, on account of its containing portraits of Prince Arthur and his wife Catherine, and he allowed the Abbot of Waltham to appropriate it. After having passed through the hands of several proprietors it was purchased by the vestry of St. Margaret and placed in its present position. Caxton and Sir Walter Raleigh are 99 buried in the church, and there are tablets in their memory, and in the adjoining churchyard lie the remains of Cromwell's mother, daughter and sister, of Admiral Blake, and of others distinguished during the Common- wealth, whose bodies were removed thither from Westminster Abbey after the restoration. The Westminster Memorial, a column surmounted by a statue of St. George, was erected in commemoration of the West- minster scholars who fell in the Crimea and during the Indian mutiny. It is by Sir G. Scott. Westminster Hospital, the oldest Lon- don Hospital supported by voluntary con- tributions (established in 1 7 1 9) lies opposite. At its back is Her Majesty's Stationery Office, which supplies all Government departments with stationery, and to the right of it, stands Westminster GttildJiall, in which the business of the City of West- minster is transacted. The massive building towards the left is the ROYAL AQUARIUM (architect, R. Bed- borough), which is well deserving a visit. Admission is. Billiard and Reading Rooms. Excellent Restaurant (table d'hote 55.) Con- certs at 4 and 8.30 (director, A. Sullivan). The building covers a plot of ground 600 feet long, and 430 feet deep. The large hall is 340 feet long, 160 feet wide and 78 feet high. The numerous tanks are arranged on both sides of it, and are supplied with water from a subterranean reserve tank holding 730,000 gallons of water. On the galleries a valuable exhi- bition of pictures and sculpture. The building contains likewise a theatre, capable of seating 2000 persons, a skating rink, &c. Tothill-street, in front of the Aquarium, leads to the mean York Street, at one time called Petty France, where Milton lived in a garden house. At 2, Queen Square Place, which leads from it towards St. James's Park, lived Jeremy Bentham. We now inspect Westminster Abbey (chap. 36 ) and WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. A gateway opposite the Westminster Me- morial leads into Dean's yard, used as a play ground. A small gateway leads thence into Little Dean's, or school-yard. Westminster School, or St. Peter's College 100 22. WESTMINSTER, CHELSEA AND BATTERSEA. v.-as founded in 1560 by Queen Elizabeth, and there are on the foundation a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 Queen's scholars, with a master, and an usher. There are now nineteen masters and a considerable number of town boys or oppidans, in addition to the foundation scholars, who are recruited amongst them after an examination conducted by the boys themselves. This examination forms a most curious feature in the management of the school. At the commencement of Lent, the boys aspiring to the honour of becoming Queen's Scholars, announce themselves as candidates to the head- master. They pass through an arduous training under the guidance of a senior boy, and on the day of trial, the youngest amongst the lot, may challenge his seniors to answer any questions respecting a lesson set by the head-master, who acts as judge, and those amongst them who are most successful in meeting repeated challenges gain the coveted place on the college-roll. On the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, an examination takes place for scholarships, four boys pro- ceeding to Trinity College, Cambridge, and four to Christ College, Oxford. The school is partially supported from the Cathedral revenues, but town boys as well as Queen's scholars, have nevertheless to pay heavily for their education. In the old Dormitory of the College, which was built in the time of Dean Attenbury, from a design by the Earl of Burlington in 1722, the boys annually at Christmas perform a play of Terrence, with a Latin prologue and epilogue relating to events of the day. This is an old custom. The first scenery was prepared under the direction of no less a man than David Garrick. The parents of the boys, old Westminster scholars and many persons of eminence attend, and when the " Captain's cap" is sent round at the close of the performance, donations flow liberally. The expense of the play having been defrayed, the surplus is divided amongst the senior Queen's scholars. The College Hall was originally the Abbot's refectory, and dates from the time of Edward III. The old louvre, through which the smoke used to escape, still exists. The Schoolroom\n&<*. dormitory belonging to the Abbey. Amongst eminent masters of the school were Camden, the antiquary ; and Dr. Busby, noted for his birch. The poets Ben Jonson, George Herbert, Fletcher, Cowley, Dryden, Prior, Cowper and Southey ; Sir Christopher Wren, the architect ; Gibbon, the historian; Locke, the philosopher; South, Warren Hastings, Hackluyt, the collector of voyages, the elder Colman, Lord Russell, and many other men of eminence were educated at it. 22.-WESTMINSTER, CHELSEA AND BATTERSEA Hal? a Mile/ t@" Either by steamer from Westminster Bridge to Cadogan Pier, or Underground (Metropolitan) Railway to Sloane-square Station ; or on foot, as described below (2^ miles to the Hospital). JOI Westminster and Chelsea are amongst the poorest quarters of the town, and with the exception of the buildings already known to us, there is only Chelsea Hos- 102 22.-WESTMINSTEK, CHELSEA, AND BATTERSEA. pital which appears to be deserving the attention of the ordinary visitor. There nevertheless are some other buildings which may interest the more inquiring traveller, and the following walk has been arranged with special reference to him : We start from the sanctuary, West- minster Abbey, and proceed at first along Victoria-street. On the right the palatial Westminster Hotel, on the left fine ranges of offices. Lower down the street there are big dwelling-houses, arranged in flats, in the continental style. When com- pleted, this will certainly form one of the most imposing thoroughfares of London. On the right, Christ Church, a modern Gothic edifice, built 1843. Beyond it, Palmer's Alms-Jiotises, founded 1654; and up Buckingham -row, Emanuel Hospital; founded 1594 by Lady Dacre, with alms-houses and a school. Artillery row, opposite, takes us to two similar institutions, viz. : the Green Coat School, founded 1633, and the Grey Coat Hospital, founded 1698. The high walls of the New Bridewell, a house of cor- rection for female prisoners, rise above the former. In Rochester-row, St. Stephen's Church, (Architect, B. Ferry), built 1847-9, m tne Gothic style of the I4th century, at the expense of Baroness Burdett Coutts. The tower rises to a height of 200 feet. The interior is worth inspection. Opposite to the church are Hill's- A Imshouses, founded in 1708. We cross Vincent - square, the play- j ground of the Westminster scholars, and Vauxhall Bridge-road, and proceed to St. James's Chunch, Garden-street, a taste- j ful building, in black and red bricks, with a Campanila tower, 134 feet in height, (architect, G. E. Street). Moreton and Lupus-street take us thence j to the Chelsea Embankment, 4,126 feet in j length, constructed at a cost of ,271,183. We pass Victoria Railway Bridge, (En- gineer, O. Fowler, cost 90,000), and one of the pumping stations of the Main Drainage Works (where the sewage of a large portion of London is lifted 18 feet into the Low Level sewer carried under- neath the embankment), and reach the 103 Chelsea Suspension Bridge, which is 951 feet in length, and was built 1857-8, by T. Page, for a private company, at a cost of 84,319. We now leave the river, and passing along the barracks, which occupy the site of the once famous Ranelagh Gardens, reach CHELSEA HOSPITAL (Plan D 9). Admission Daily, to the Gardens free ; to the Chapel and Hall on payment of a gratuity. The hospital was founded by Charles II., for old and disabled soldiers, it is said at the suggestion of Nell Gwynne, and was built 1681-90, by Sir Christopher Wren, who likewise laid down the rules for its internal economy. About 500 invalids (in-pensioners) live in it, and there are about 62,000 out-pensioners. It is an imposing edifice, of red brick with stone facings, consisting of a centre and two wings, each 365 feet in length. We enter by the main entrance, beneath a pediment borne by four columns. On the left the Chapel, with altar-piece by Sebas- tian Ricci, and 55 colours, mostly taken from the French. The Hall, on the opposite side of the passage, contains a portrait of Charles II., on horseback, by Verrio and Cooke, and 46 colours taken from the enemy. The body of the Duke of Wellington lay in state here. In the Quadrangle, facing the gardens, a statue ; of Charles II., by Grinling Gibbons, and several guns captured at Waterloo. The Gardens are laid out with much taste. In their centre, an obelisk in memory of 255 officers and men of the 24th Regiment,, who fell at Chilian walla (1849). The Royal Military Asylum, founded in i>Soi by the Duke of York, is near Chelsea Hospital. It educates 458 orphan children of British soldiers, most of whom join the army on leaving the school, and is supported by parliamentary grants. We now proceed along Queen's-road to Cheyne-walk. On the road we pass the Botanical Gardens of the Company of Apothecaries, laid out in 1763, and containing a few cedars now nearly 200 years old, and a statue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Rysbrack. Cheyne-walk may still boast of a few- houses dating from the time of Charles II. 104. 23. THE WEST-END PARKS. Sir Thomas More, inhabited a house above the Church, where he was visited by Holbein and Erasmus of Rotterdam. His monument is in the church -yard. Thomas Carlyle lives at 5, Great Cheyne-row, which opens upon Cheyne-walk. We cross Albert Suspension Bridge, 787 feet long, (opened 1873, engineer, R. M. Ordish), to BATTERSEA PARK, which covers an area of 1 80 acres and was laid out, 1852-58. It covers the site of the old " Battersea- fields," a low and marshy region, much of it below the level of the river, and at one time the resort of duellists (Wellington and the Earl of Winchelsea fought here). About a million cubic yards of earth were brought from the Victoria Docks, which were then being excavated, and from other sources, and the Park is now certainly one of the finest in London, and should be explored in all its parts. The visitor should not omit visiting the Drive along the Thames, with fine views upon Chelsea, the Apothecaries' Botanical Gar- dens and Cheyne-walk ; the Avenue of lime trees in the centre of the Park ; the Rosary Mo^md; the Sub-tropical Gardens near the lake, covering nearly 4 acres ; the Peninsula and Alpine Point at its eastern extremity, the latter a miniature representation of Alpine scenery. Persons interested in the welfare of the working classes may deem it worth while to pay a visit to Shaftesbury Park, which lies about half-a-mile from the south-western entrance of the Park. It is a workmen's city, consisting of 1200 small houses, a school, a lecture hall and reading room, and a co- operative store, but not a single public-house. The houses contain 5 to 8 rooms each, are let, at 15 to 20 a year, and may be purchased by the occupiers by monthly instalments. The evening might be spent at the Cremorne Gardens, which are f miles from Battersea Park, and may be reached by steamer. 23.-THE WEST-END PARKS. S^H" A band performs in Kensington gardens on Tuesdays and Fridays from 4 to 7 p.m. Rotten-row should be seen between 4 and 6 in the afternoon. Cabs are not admitted to it. The visit to these Parks should be combined with that to the South Kensington and India Museums, the Horticultural Society's Gardens, the Albert Hall, &c. (see chapter 41), and will then occupy a full day. We first walk through St. James's Park, then along the Western and Northern sides of Green Park. At Hyde Park Corner we take an omnibus ( " Brompton" "Favorite," "Islington and Brompton" or "Putney") which takes us along Brompton- road, past the Brompton Oratory, to the Museum (Restaurant); These West-end Parks extend from the vicinity of Gharing Cross to the suburb of Kensington, a distance of 2# miles, and cover an area of 7 1 8 acres. 105 ST. JAMES'S PARK (58 acres) istheoldcst amongst all the London Parks, and was laid out originally by Henry VIII. when he built St. James's Palace on the site of an old hospital for lepers. Charles II. much improved the Park, employing for that purpose the celebrated French gar- dener, Le Notre. He formed a Mall, where he was able to play his favourite 106 '23 .-THE WEST-END PARKS. game Pele-mele, a sort of croquet, estab- lished aviaries (hence the modern Bird- cage-walk) and excavated several ponds. "William III. first opened the Park to the public, and in George IV.'s time it was remodelled by Nash, the architect. The centre of the Park the "Enclo- sure ' consists of a fine garden, with a sheet of ornamental water, animated by rare water-fowl (a breeding-house of the Ornithological Society stands on the is- land of the lake). On the east, the Park is bounded by the new Government offices (India Office), the Horse Guards and other Government buildings (chap. 20). The " Parade " in front of the Horse Guards was the Tilt Yard of the old Palace of White- hall. On it a mortar, cast at Seville by order of Napoleon, employed by the French during the seige of Cadiz, and abandoned by them at Salamanca. It threw a shell weighing 108 Ibs. a distance of 6,220 yards. The mortar car- riage was made at Woolwich, and represents the destruction of the Tyrant of Gades (Napoleon), by Hercules (Wellington). On the other side is a Turkish gun taken from the French in Egypt, and bearing an inscription in Arabic : ' ' May Allah send my ball into the faces of the pork-eaters ! " The south side of the Park is bounded by Birdcage Walk; the north side by four avenues of fine trees, mostly elms, called the Mall. The fine houses in Carlton House Terrace, the Duke of York's column, Marlborough House and St. James's Palace (chap. 24) are seen from the Mall. At the western end of the Park stands BUCKINGHAM PALACE, the town residence of the Queen since 1837. It occupies the site of an old mansion of the Duke of Buckingham. The front, towards the Palace Gardens, is by John Nash (1825), that towards St. James's Park by Blore (1846-51). The interior contains several fine rooms, but can only be inspected by special permission of the Lord Chamberlain. On the ground floor arc a sculpture gallery and the library. Broad marble stairs lead to the first floor. The stair- case is ornamented with frescoes by Stothard, representing Morning, Noon, Evening and Night. The Green Drawing Room is 50 feet long, and 32 feet in height. The adjoining future Gallery is 1 80 feet in length, and con- I0 7 tains a most valuable collection of paintings, principally by Dutch and Flemish masters. The Great Saloon is used for concerts. The Throne Room is 64 feet in length, and orna- mented with a marble frieze representing the Wars of the Roses, by Stothard and Baily. It is hung with crimson satin. The Ball-room was completed only in 1856, from a design by Pennethorne. In the Palace Gardens is the Quern's Sum- iner-house, with frescoes illustrating Milton's Comus. A high mound of earth separates the Gardens from the Royal Mews, where several curious stage coaches may be seen including the one painted in 1762 by Cipriani. GREEN PARK (60 acres) is triangular in shape, and connects St. James' Park with Hyde Park. It is bounded on the north by Constitution Hill, a road skirting the wall of the Buckingham Palace Gardens, (near it is Hyde Park, where Sir Robert Peel was thrown from his horse, in 1850, and killed, and the Queen has been re- peatedly fired at). We skirt the eastern and northern sides of the park, which gives us an opportunity of seeing several of the finest mansions of the nobility, and affords a fine view over St. James's Park, as far as the towers of Westminster. At the corner of St. James's Park and Green Park is Stafford House, the resi- dence of the Duke of Sutherland,originally built for the Duke of York, (Architect, Benjamin Wyatt). It contains a most valuable collection of paintings, those by Spanish masters being the most impor- tant. After t\vo openings, Bridgewater House, (Earl of Ellesmere), built 1846-51, from designs by Sir Charles Barry, con- taining one of the finest private collections of pictures in existence (see chapter 7). Then follows Spencer House, the residence 1 08 23. THE WEST-END PARKS. of Earl Spencer. Then a narrow opening, and a house with bow windows, the resi- dence of Rogers the poet (and of Addison?) Higher up are Vernon House (residence of Lord Redesdale), Yarborough House (built by Kent, for Henry Pelham), the residence of the Marquis of Salisbury and others. On going up the steps, at the end of this walk, we find ourselves facing Devon- shire House, a fine brick-building, built by William Kent, for the third Duke of Devonshire, and which occupies the site of Old Berkeley House, burnt in 1733. The portico was added in 1840. The house contains a valuable library, a col- lection of gems, and many pictures. At the back of it is a large garden. We can now either walk along Pic- cadilly (see chapter 24.), or within the rails through the park. At the corner of Stratton-street is the house of Baroness Burdett Cotrtts, whence Sir Francis Bur- dett was taken to the Tower, in 1810. No. 82 (Bath House) is the residence of Lord Ashburton, and contains a valuable collection of Dutch and Flemish pictures. In No. 89, lived Madame d' Arblay ; in No. 94 (now Naval and Military Club), Lord Palmerston ; in No. 96, Sir Walter Scott, when in town, with his friend, Mr. Charles Diimergue. In No. 104, died Sir William Hamilton, the collector of the Hamiltonian gems, and the husband of Nelson's Lady Hamilton. No. 105 (Hert- ford House) was known formerly as Pulteney Hotel. The Emperor Alexander of Russia, lived in it during his visit to London in 1814; and here Prince Leopold was introduced to the Princess Charlotte. In No. 1 06 (Coventry House, now St. James's Club) died, 1809, the sixth Earl of Coventry, who had married the eldest of the beautiful Miss Gunnings'. No. 116, formerly the residence of Mrs. Hope, is occupied now by the Junior Athenaeum Club. In Gloucester House, corner of Park-lane, E., were placed the Elgin marbles, on their first arrival in England. It is occupied now by the Duke of Cambridge. A few houses furthur Nos. 138 and 139, lived the Duke of Queens- berry, a notorious voluptuary and racing man. Lord Byron spent the few days of 109 his London married life in the western half of this house (No. 139). Lord Chan- cellor Eldon died, 1838, in the corner house of Hamilton Place. The last house in Piccadilly is Apsley House, the town residence of the great Duke of Wellington, until his death in 1852. The shell of the house is of brick, and was built, 1784, by Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, Lord High Chancellor ; the existing stone facing was added in 1828, by Messrs. Wyatt. The I celebrated Waterloo banquet used to be | held in the drawing room facing Hyde-park. Amongst the Art treasures in this mansion I is a marble Statue of Napoleon (by Canova), presented to the Duke by the allied sovereigns ; a picture by Correggio (Christ on the Mount I of Olives) captured in the carriage of Joseph Bonaparte, and presented to the Duke by Ferdinand VIII. of Spain. We have now arrived at HYDE PARK Corner, one of the chief centres of traffic in London. On the left a Triumphal Arch, designed by Decimus Burton, with columns in imitation of those of the Temple of Jupiter Stator. It was intended for a quadriga, but now bears an equestrian stature of the Duke of, Wellington (by M. C. Wyatt). In front j St. George's Hospital, on the right the triple Archway leading into Hyde Park, designed by Decimus Burton, with bas- reliefs from the Elgin marbles. Igg^ A visit to the northern portion's of Hyde Park, including the Marble Arch, had better be made in connection with the route described in chapter 26. HYDE PARK (390 acres), with the adjoin- ing Kensington Gardens (210 acres), one Park, the largest in London, separated only by a dry ditch. Hyde Park was a portion of the manor of Hyde, the pro- perty of the monastery of St. Peter's, at Westminster, until Henry VIII. obtained possession of it, in 1536, and converted it into a deer garden. In the time of Charles I. a "Ring" was made in the Park, to serve as a fashionable drive. Cromwell mustered his " Ironsides," and the Londoners threw up entrenchments to defend the town against the Royal troops. For its present beauty the Park is indebted to William III., and to Queen I 10 23.-THE WEST-END PABKS. Caroline, the consort of George II., who converted a string of ponds into a fine sheet of water, known as the Serpentine. A large portion of the Park consists of open grass land. Kensington Gardens are densely wooded. The flower beds are to be found principally along its eastern Rotten-row and the Ladies' Mile ; the flower-gardens already referred to, and particularly the sub-tropical gardens, be- tween Albert-gate and Hyde-park Corner. The statue of Achilles, an imitation of an antique statue on Monte Cavallo, cast from captured guns, and dedicated by Quarter Mile and southern margins, and in the " Long Flower Walk " of Kensington Gardens. The " Ring," a fine carriage road, skirts the whole of the northern and eastern boundaries of the Park and passes along the Serpentine, where it is known as the 'Ladies' Mile. Rotten Row (supposed to be a corrup- tion of route du roi or King's-road) extends from the gate at Hyde Park Corner to Kensington, and no stranger should omit visiting it between 5 and 7 during the season, when it is thronged with equestrians. In Hyde Park there are two powder magazines, and in Ken- sington Gardens a Royal Palace. Kensington Palace, an old brick building, was purchased by William III. from the Earl of Nottingham, and subsequently enlarged. William III. and Queen Mary, Queen Anne and her husband, died in the Palace, Queen Victoria was born in it, in 1819, and held here her first Council in 1837. At present it is inhabited by the Prince Teck and the Marquis of Lome. Amongst the chief attractions of the Park are the Serpentine, with an Italian Garden (statue of Dr. Jenner, by W. C. Marshall) at its upper, and a water-fall and Fknver _" Dell " at its lower end ; I ii the Ladies of England to the Duke of Wellington, near Hyde-park Corner, and the Albert L* tutorial , one of the most gorgeous monuments erected in this or any other country. It was designed by Sir G. C. Scott, and consists of a Gothic canopy, rising to a height of 175 feet, beneath which is placed a sitting statue of Prince Albert in gilt bronze (by the late John Foley). The canopy rests upon tour clustered pillars of Mull granite, and is richly ornamented with mosaics by Salviati, Clayton and Bell. The four colossal marble groups at the foot of the steps represent the four quarters of the globe, with reference to the International Exhibition of 1851, which originated with the Prince (Europe by MacDowell, Asia by Foley, Africa by Theed, and America by John Bell). On the four projecting corners of the base are placed allegorical groups of Agriculture (by Calder Mar- shall), Manufactures (by Weeks), Com- merce (by.Thornycroft), and Engineering (by Lawlor.) The base itself is ornamented with 200 life-size portraits, in high relief, of celebrated men of all countries and ages, not very appropriately selected (by J. P. Philip Jand H. Armstead). The 112 24.-ST. JAMES'S. minor sculptures refer to the Arts and Sciences cultivated by the Prince, and to the Institutions founded by him. The monument cost ^140,000, of which /68,ooo was raised by voluntary subscrip- tions, ^50,000 granted by Parliament, and ^22,000 paid by the Queen. jjgjT Albert Hall, opposite this monument, will be described in Chapter 41. 24.-ST. JAMES'S. 1^ Geological Museum, daily, Friday excepted. We start as usual from the Nelson Col- umn, Trafalgar-square. Cockspur-street, with an equestrian statue of George III. {by M. C. Wyatt), takes us from here to the corner of Pall-mall and Haymarket, \vhere stands a building surrounded by Arcades, formerly Her Majesty's Theatre. The first theatre on this site was built in 1705, by J. Vanbrugh. It was burnt down in 1789, but was immediately re- built by Novosielsky, and subsequently improved by Nash and Repton. In 1867 the interior of the building was gutted by fire, but, though rebuilt, it has never again been used as an opera-house, although its acoustic properties left nothing to be desired. Up to 1848 it was the only Italian opera-house in London. The HAYMARKET has enjoyed for many years the unenviable notoriety of being the nightly meeting-place of loose char- acters. In the time of Charles II., there existed gaming houses near its upper end, and even now it abounds in cafe's, not generally resorted to by the most select company. Going up the street we pass the portico of the Haymarket Theatre, built by Nash, on the site of an older house, and opened in 1821. At the corner of Ponton-street we turn to the right, (in a garret in it Addison wrote his " Campaign ") and reach LEICESTER-SQUARE recently converted into a fine garden at the expense of Baron Albert Grant. Leicester-square was built in 1670-90, and a few houses of that time still remain. It is the centre of a district much resorted to by foreigners. Sir Joshua Reynolds inhabited a house on the West-side, (blue tablet) ; the Alkambra, a theatre in the Moorish style, occu- pies the site of John Hunter's house ; and "3 Hogarth lived in a house to the south of it, the second from the corner. Sir Isaac Newton's house, in the court opening into the square from the south, is now used as a poor-school, and can be distinguished- by a red lamp. Ben Jon- son was born in Hartshorn-lane, near the square. Busts of these four worthies have now been placed in the square, the centre of which is occupied by a statue of Shakespeare, imitated from that of Scheemakers in Westminster Abbey. We now proceed through Coventry- street to Piccadilly Circus, where Regent- street intersects Piccadilly. Immediately before reaching the Circus we pass, on the left, the Criterion Restaurant, a luxu- riously fitted up establishment (American Bar), standing upon a subterranean theatre. PICCADILLY is said to be called after a sort of stiff shirt collar, called Pickadille, much worn in the beginning of the I7th century. In its eastern part it consists mainly of shops, in its western (described in chapter 23), of fashionable dwelling- houses. The first building to attract our attention is the back of the Geological Museum on the left. Nearly opposite to it is one of the entrances to St. James's Hall (Christy Minstrels). A little further, on the opposite side, stands St. James's Church, a plain edifice, by Wren, much praised for its acoustic qualities. A nar- row passage, on the left of the church, takes us to Jermyn-street, and to the GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. This institution was founded in 1837, on the representation of Sir Henry de la Beche ; it is entrusted with the Geological survey of the United Kingdom, and in connection with it exist a school of Mines, a metallurgical labora- tory, and a Mining Record Office. The present building was opened in 1851 (architect, James Pennethorne). The Pic. 114 24. ST. JAMES'S. cadilly front is of Anston (Yorkshire) dolomite or magnesian limestone ; that in Jermyn-street of the same material and Suffolk bricks. The steps leading into the building are of red Peterhead granite, those inside the building of Portland stone. The spacious Entrance Hall con- tains specimens of building materials found in the British Islands, and some of these have been employed in its decora- tions. The entrance is lined with alabaster, from Derbyshire ; the pilasters are of Scotch granite, with serpentine and various kinds of limestone. The tesse- lated pavement has been manufactured by Messrs. Minton, from Cornish china clay, and is surrounded by encaustic tiles. The entrances to the lecture theatre and library- open from the vestibule. A hand- some staircase, lined with specimens of British industrial art, leads to the prin- cipal floor, which is 95 feet long, 55 feet wide, and 43 feet high, with two light galleries running round it. In it are placed a collection of pottery and china, glass and keramic manufactures, enamels, geological models, c. On the galleries will be found a most complete collection of British fossils and rocks, and in a room adjoining, models of machinery, mining tools, &c. We return to Piccadilly. Almost oppo- site to the church is the Albany, a quiet court - yard, surrounded by superior bachelors' houses, and immediately be- yond it we reach BURLINGTON HOUSE, the head-quarters of some of the leading scientific societies, and of the Royal Academy of Arts. Old Burlington House had been built about 1665, by Webb, a pupil of Inigo Jones, and was subsequently much modified by its possessor, Lord Burlington (born, 1695, died, 1753), who likewise built the fine colonnade, which separates it scourt-yard from Piccadilly. In 1854, the house and its garden were purchased by Government ; the colonnade has been removed, and imposing buildings have risen in its stead. The front, towards Piccadilly, is by- Charles Barry and Banks. A high gate- way conducts into a quadrangle. In front of us rises the building of the Royal Academy, an enlargement of old Burling- "5 ton House, by S. Smirke. The wing on the right is occupied by the Royal Society, that on the left by the Society of Anti- quaries, and the Astronomical Society, and other portions of the vast building by the Linnean, the Geological, and Chemical Societies. The Royal Society was incorporated by- Charles II. in 1662, and originated in 1645 i R the so-called "Invisible College," a small body of men of learning who used to meet weekly in Gresham College, in the City. It can boast of the names of Newton, Wren, Halley, Boyle, Herschel, Davy, and Watt, as having been amongst its members. In 1667 the Society already numbered 200 members, each of whom was expected to pay a shilling a week, though several amongst them, inclu- ding Isaac Newton, were not able to keep up this modest contribution. The Society now numbers 800 Fellows. The annual admissions are limited to fifteen ; the entrance fee is ^ 10, the annual subscription 4. The Society possesses a library of 50,000 volumes, a col- lection of valuable portraits of old Fellows, and many curiosities, including a telescope and a sun-dial made by Newton, the manuscript of | Newton's " Principia," a "Charter book," containing the signatures of all Fellows, and many others. The Royal Academy of Arts was founded in 1768. Its first President was Sit Joshua Reynolds. It consists of 42 R.A.'s, (Royal Academicians), wkh whom rests the government of the Institution, 6 Honorary Foreign Academicians (all Frenchmen) and 26 Associates. The Academy holds an Exhibition of modern works of Art from May to August, and generally also an Exhibition of the works of ancient masters during the winter. It also supports an Art School. Its income amounts to ,6,000 a year. The Exhibi- tion galleries are on the first floor of the building. On the second floor are three rooms with the Diploma Pictures of the Academicians, which they are required to present on admission, the statues and casts bequeathed by Gibson, and several other Art treasures of high value (Car- toons by Leonardo da Vinci, a fresco by Paul Veronese, a bas-rclicf by Michael Angelo, c.) * M Visitors are admitted to the Exhibitions on payment of is., but the Art collections be- n6 24.-ST. JAMES'S. longing to the Academy are jealously guarded from the gaze of the public. Application for admission should be made to the keeper, F. R. Pickersgill, Esq. We now return to Piccadilly (opposite the Egyptian Hall) and, walking through Burlington Arcade, a covered walk with fine shops, we reach the back of Burlington House, and with it the LONDON UNIVERSITY, established in 1837 by Government, for the conduct of Examinations, with a view to the con- ferring of degrees upon the students of University College, King's College, and other similar institutions in all parts of the country managed independently of it. There are no less than 56 Examiners, who are paid ^30 to ,200 each annually. The degrees conferred by them are held in high estimation. The Registrar enjoys a salary of ^1,000. The graduates elect one member to Parliament. The present building was completed in 1870 (architect, Pennethorne). It is in the Italian Renaissance style, and its ex- terior is decorated with statues of great men. On the portico, sitting statues of Harvey, Milton and Bentham (by John Durham). On the top of the building : Galileo, La Place and Goethe (by E. W. Wyon) ; Aristotle, Galenus and Cicero (by ]". S. Westmacott) ; Justinian, Archimedes and Plato (by I. W. Wooding- ton) ; and David Hume, John Hunter and Sir Humphrey Davy (by M. Noble.) la the niches of the eastern wing : Cuvier, Liebnitz and Linnaeus (by P. Mac Dowell), on the western wing, Locke, Bacon and Adam Smith (by W. Theed). In Savile-row, close by (No. 7) died Richard Brinsley Sheridan. We now turn back and reach OLD BOND STREET, with numerous fashionable shops, and, turning to the left, return to Piccadilly. In 41, Old Bond-street died Sterne. In Albemarle-street, No. 21 is the BriiisJi Institution, founded in 1806, where public lectures on scientific subjects are delivered by the most eminent men of the day. The Insti- tution possesses a valuable library, and the names of Humphrey Davy, Faraday, and Tyndale are associated with its laboratory. The front of the building is an imitation of the Custom-house at Rome (by Vulliamy). 117 ' On the way to it we pass the business premises of Mr. Murray, the eminent publisher (No. 50), where Byron and Sir Walter Scott met the only time in their life. It iif 1. Her Majesty's. 2. Haymarket Theatre. 3. Alhambra. 4. Criterion. 5. Geological Museum. 6. St. James's Hall. 7. St. James's Church. 8. Egyptian Hall. 9. White's Club. 10. Boodle's Club. 11. Brooke's Club. 12. Conservative Club. 13. East India United Service. 14. "War Office. 15. Army and Navy. 16. Junior Carl ton Club. 17. Carl ton Club. IS. Reform Club. 19. Travellers' Club. 20. Athenocum Club. 21. United Service Club. St. James's Street cannot rival Pall Mall in the splendour of its clubs, but nevertheless contains a goodly number of them. The house at the corner, on the right, used to be occupied by Crockford's Club, a notorious gaming place ; it was subsequently converted into the Wel- lington Dining Rooms, and is now the Devonshire Club (a new Reform Club). Opposite to it (No. 37) is White's Club, established in 1736, and limited to strict Tories. In 1814, its members distin- guished themselves by offering a banquet to the allied sovereigns, then in London,, which cost ,9,849. On the other side of the street, No. 57, is the New University Club, a tasteful Gothic building. Lower down, on the left, No. 28, is Boodle's Club (Gibbon was one of its members), and nearly opposite to it, at the corner of Park-place, is Brooke's Club, founded in 1767 by the Whigs, and originally 118 24.-ST. JAMES'S. a gaming house. The present building (Henry Holland, architect) was built at the expense of Brooks, a retired wine merchant and money lender, who had "farmed" the club, and opened it in 1778. No. 64, on the right, is the Cocoa-tree Club, and a little beyond, on the left, is King-street. In King-street are St. James's Theatre, (with a small portico) and Willis's Rooms, (Robert Mylne, architect, 1795). These Rooms were formerly the property of Almack, whose fashionable and exclusive balls were discon- tinued in 1863, on account of persons of low degree having managed to invade these sacred precincts. The rooms are still used for balls and public dinners, and in one of them may be seen several valuable pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds and others, (shown on pay- ment of a gratuity). In a lodging house at the further end of the street (No. 3), lived the Emperor Napoleon III., during his exile in London. In Bury-street, which enters from the north, lived Tom Moore, in 1806, (No. 27), and Dan O'Connel, in 1829 (No. 29). We return to St. James's -street. Almost opposite to King -street is Arthur's Club, originally a chocolate house, its present mansion was erected in 1 820 (Thomas Hopper, architect). A little lower down the street we reach the Conservative Club, founded in 1840 as a club of ease to the Carlton, and occupying a noble building, erected 1843-45 (G. Bassevi and Sidney Smith, architects). At the side of it the Thatched House Club (formerly a tavern), built on the site of the house in which Gibbon, the great historian died in 1794. Opposite in No. 8, Byron lodged in 1811. We see now in front of us a fine street-lamp, and beyond it the ancient gateway of ST. JAMES'S PALACE. Admission to Courts free, to Palace and chapel only by permission of Lord Chamber- lain, (see p. 26). Band daily, 10.45 a - m - Sundays included. St. James's Palace is the oldest Royal Palace in London, and occupies the site of an hospital for lepers, which existed until 1532, when it was acquired by Henry ! VIII., who converted it into a Royal Palace, which was subsequently enlarged by Charles I., and has been the usual residence of the sovereigns from 1697 119 (when Whitehall was burnt) to the accession of Queen Victoria. The east wing of the Palace was destroyed by fire, in 1809, and has since been rebuilt. The Palace is now used only for Court cere- monies, such as "drawing-rooms" and "levdes," at which ladies or gentlemen are presented to Royalty. The Gateway at the bottom of St. James's-street, is almost the only remnant of Henry VIII.'s palace, and leads into the " Colour Court," ; but it is generally closed to the public, who enter by a gate- way further towards the west (right), which takes us into the Ambassador*? Court. Here, in the brick-house on the right. lodged Marshal Blucher, in 1814. The Colour Court is thus called because the colours of the regiment on duty is placed with in it. In it is the entrance to the Chape i Royal, with a highly decorated ceiling. said to be designed by Hans Holbein. The entrance to the state apartments is in the outer or Marlborough-court. They overlook St. James's Park. A grand staircase leads to a guard-chamber, adorned with military arms. The first room is called the Tapestry-room ; it is hung with that material, and has an ancient fire-place retaining the initials of Henry VIII. and Ann Boleyn. The Ball- room and Drawing-room contain a few portraits. In the Throne-room is placed the Royal chair of state ; the Council- chamber, behind it, as well as the Entree gallery, contain some valuable paintings. The German Chapel Royal adjoins Marl- borough-court on the east. It was built by Charles II. for his catholic Queen Catherine of Braganza, but converted into a Lutheran chapel on the accession of the House of Hanover. Stafford House (see page 28). adjoins St. James's Palace on the west. We now return to St. James's-street, and, turning to the right, enter Pall Mall, one of the finest streets in London, celebrated for its palatial club- houses. It is so called from a game intro- duced into England, in the reign of Charles I., and which was formerly played here. The street was first lighted with gas in 1807. On the right, a gate, guarded by a 120 24.-ST. JAMES'S. sentinel, leads to Marlborough House, the residence of the Prince of Wales. It was built 1709-10, by Wren, for the great Duke of Marlborough, who died in it. In 1817, it was purchased by the Crown, and granted as a residence to Prince Leopold, subsequently King of the Belgians. Next to it are the Junior Naval and Military Club (No. 68), the Guards' Club (No. 70), and the Oxford and Cambridge University Club (No. 71-76), erected 1838, by Sidney Smirke. Opposite is the Marlborough Club, the most exclusive Club in London. On the same side of the street is the old building of the British Institution, established 1805, for the purpose of encouraging art, by holding exhibitions of modern and ancient pictures. It is occupied now by the Institute of Painters in Water Colours. No. 79, on the right side, now an In- surance Office, occupies the site of Nell G Wynne's house. In Schomburg House, next to it, lived Gainsborough, the painter. We have now reached the War Office, a plain brick-building, erected in 1767, for the Duke of Cumberland. In the Quadrangle towards the street a fine statue of Lord Herbert, Secretary of State during the Crimean Warj by Foley. The -bas- reliefs illustrate the principal events which took place during Lord Herbert's tenure of office, viz., the creation of the Volunteer Corps, the introduction of Armstrong guns, and the nursing of the wounded soldiers by Miss Nightingale and her noble band of ladies. A short street opposite, leads into St. James's Square. (We continue however, along Pall Mall). At the corner, the Army and Navy Chid, a most ornate building, partly based upon a design of Sansovino's (architects, Messrs. Parnell and Smith, 1848-50). The ground cost /52,5oo; the building, ,35,000. On the same side of the street, the Junior Carlton Club (D. Brandon, archi- tect), a club of ease to the Carlton Club, which is on the opposite (right) side of Pall Mall, and was establised in the in- terest of the Conservatives, in 1831. The Carlton is a noble building having a front 130 feet in length, and designed in imitation of the east front of the library *>f St. Mark at Venice, the architects of 121 which were Sansovino and Scamozzi. The exterior is of Caen stone, with Doric and Ionic columns and pilasters of polished Peterhead granite (architect, Sidney Smirke, 1850-56). Next to it is the Reform Club, established in 1830 by Liberal Members of Parliament. The building is by Sir Charles Barry, and is much admired. In some of its features it resembles the Palazzo Farnese, though by no means a slavish copy of it. A short street opposite leads into St. James's square, built 1674-90, and ornamented with an equestrian statue of William III. by Bacon, jun. The first three houses on the right belong to the Duke of Norfolk, the Bishop of London, and Earl Derby. On the opposite side of the square, at the north corner of King-street, lived Lord Castlereagh. Now back to Pall Mall. On the opposite side of it, next to the Reform Club, stands the Travellers' Club, a chaste building in the Italian palazzo style of architecture, by Sir Charles Barry (1831). We now enter WATERLOO PLACE, which occupies the site of Carlton House, the residence of the Prince Regent (George IV.) At the head of the stairs leading into St. James's Park, stands the Duke of York's column, 124 feet in height, surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke (son of George III.) by B. Westmaeott. The column is of Scotch granite, and was designed by B. Wyatt ; 168 steps lead to a cage or gallery, from which there is a fine prospect. The centre of the " Place " is occupied by a monument erected in honour of the three regiments of Guards who fought in the Crimea (by J. Bell). On either side an in- different statue of Colin Campbell (Lord Clyde) by Baron Marochetti, and a fine statue of Sir John Franklin, the Arctic navigator, by Noble. Amongst the buildings surrounding this square that of- the AtJienceum Club is the most prominent. It was erected in 1829-30 (Decimus Burton, architect). The Club was instituted in 1823, for the association of individuals known for their liter- ary and scientific attainments, artists of emi- nence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble- men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of Science, Literature, and the Arts. 122 25. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL, GARDENS. There are 1200 ordinary members, and the number of candidates is exceedingly large. The United Service Club, opposite to the former was built, 1826 (John Nash, architect), and contrasts with it by its com- parative simplicity. The members are recruited from the Army and Navy. 25. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. tgil" Zoological Garden* open on all week, days, from 9 to sunset (see below). Polytechnic Institution^ daily 12 and 7. Botanical Gardens, by introduction of a member. This route is a continuation of the preceding one. The distance to be performed is consider- able, for including a vralk through Regent's Park and up to Primrose Hill, it amounts to no ' less than five mHes, and as a visit to the Zoo- logical Gardens is likewise fatiguing, it may be advisable to take a cab to the Portland-road entrance to the Park ; then to walk through the Avenue Gardens and Broad Walk to Prim- rose Hill, then to visit the Zoological Gardens, and finally return through the western portion of the Park to the New-road. The visitor will then find himself in the vicinity of Madame Tussaud's exhibition, which is open until 10 p.m A stroll through that portion of Regent-street occupied by the leading shops may be taken on some other occasion. Regent-street is certainly one of the finest streets of London. It has been built since 1813, in accordance with a plan designed by John Nash, and was intended to connect Carlton House with Regent's Park. The houses are of a design more or less uniform ; the bricks are hidden by plaster, and the latter is painted atfrequent intervals. The houses have thus an appearance of gaiety, which contrasts favourably with most others, even in some of our finest streets. Starting from Waterloo Place, we ob- serve, on the right, the fine house of the Junior United Service Club (Nelson and Innes, architects, 1857). On the other side of the street is Regent-street Chapel (Repton, architect), and nearly opposite to it, the house which Nash built for his own residence, now in the occupation of the * Pall Mall Restaurant and the Raleigh Club. ~ ' We reach Piccadilly Circus. Close to 123 it, on the right the " Criterion," a restau- rant and theatre. We cross the Circus and enter the " Quadrant." Originally,, the whole of it was lined with Arcades r which served as covered walks but were- removed on account of their obstructing the light and attracting women of bad character. On the left is the entrance to St. James's Hall. The numerous shops now attract our attention. Before reach- ing Hanover Church, with its portico and: curious tower (C. R. Cockerell, architect),, we turn to the left, and, walking through Hanover-street, we reach Hanover Square, built 1720-30. A sta-tue of William occupies its centre (by Chanter?). The corner house of Hanover-street was famous formerly as the Queen's Concert Rooms, cr Hanover-square Rooms. It is occupied no\v by a Club called the International. Oxford-street is crossed at the Oxford Circus. We continue in the direction of All Souls Church, with a circular portico and steeple, which terminates the view of Regent-street. (Nash, architect). All Saints Church, Margaret-street, is cfosc to Regent-street and will repay a visit. It foundations were laid in 1850 by Dr. Pusey. and it was completed in 1859 at an expense of ^60,000, one half of which was contribute. I by Mr. Tritton, a banker, and Mr. Beresfor I Hope, M.P. The exterior is of variegated brick and hardly gives promise of the sumptuous splendour which reigns within. The roof rises 75 feet. Marble and alabaster abound, the windows are painted by Gerente, and the wall above the Altar is covered with frescoes by Dyce representing the Nativity, the Cruci- fixion, the Saviour, the Virgin, and the twelve Apostles. Before continuing our walk along Regent- street we may pay a visit to Cavendish-tquare, which is close by. It was built 1750-60. In "4 :25. REGENT'S STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. its centre an equestrian statue of the Duke of Cumberland, victor of Culloden, 1746, and to the south of it a statue of Lord G. Bentinck, the leader of the protectionists. Opposite to the latter is Holies-street (Lord Byron born in No. 16). On the west side of the square Harcourt House, the residence of the Duke of Portland. In George-street, which enters the square from the south, St. George's Church, Hanover- square (James, architect, 1724), famous on account of its fashionable weddings. We return to Resrent-street. Continuing our walk along Regent- street, we pass (on left), the Polytechnic Institution, a. place of entertainment, (see p. 35). Opposite to it is the old Portland Bazaar. We pass All Souls, mentioned above, and find ourselves in front of the Langham Hotel, built, 1863-65, for a Limited Liability Company. Portland Place, a wide street, stands in front of us, and terminates in a square, where is a statue of the Duke of Kent (by Gahagan). We are now close to Regent's Park. arks YSTH rr-e FSS^rr^rvj r r^ir^t^JblqiV L (j, Regent's Park occupies an area of 470 ncres, and is one of the most picturesque parks in London. It was laid out, in I&I2, by Mr. James Morgan, from the designs of Nash, who also built the ter- races of fine houses which surround it, and has recently been much improved. Amongst its finest portions are the Avenue 125 "**3foj^ieboC/r V \Creicent/ X^ljil^y Gardens and the Broad Walk, which cross its centre, and the Lake, in its western portion. In the former will be observed two fountains, one by Westma- cott, another, erected at the expense of an Indian nobleman. The centre of the park is occupied by the Botanical Gardens. 126 25.-REGEITT STEEET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. The Botanical Gardens are the property of the Botanical Society, and are not as a rule open to the public. They were laid out in 1840, by R. Marnock, and are well deserving a visit. Decimus Burton was the architect of the Winter Gardens. Amongst the buildings scattered through the Park" may be mentioned the Baptist College, St. Dunstari's Lodge (built by D. Burton for the late Duke of Hertford) ; St. John's Lodge, the "Holme" (by W. Burton), and South Villa with Mr. Bishop's observatory, where Mr. Hind discovered several asteroids and comets. St. KatherinJs Hospital is on the east side of the Park. This Hospital was founded in 114$, and its present buildings erected in 1827 (Poynter, architect), the old building having been pulled down to make room for the St. Katherine Docks. Its chapel is an imitation of that of King's College, Cambridge. It maintains a master (who receives ^2,000 a year, in addition to a residence), 3 brothers ^300 each), 3 sisters (,200 each), 40 bedesmen and bedeswomen (;io each), and a school for 50 children. Passing over the bridge at the northern termination of the Broad Walk we reach PRIMROSE HILL, where one of the finest views over London and its environs may be enjoyed, particularly in the early morning. St. Paul's Cathedral and the Crystal Palace rise then above the vapours hanging over London. Closer by are St. John's Wood, a suburb towards the west, and Camden Town, towards the east. The bridge over the canal, towards the south-west, was destroyed by the explosion of a barge laden with gunpowder, in 1874. ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent's-park. Open on week-days from 9 to sunset. Ad- mission is., on Mondays 6d. Feeding Times of the animals :^ Pelicnns 2.30, Otters 3, Eagles 3.30, Lions and Tigers 4 p.m. A Band every Saturday, during the season, from 4 to 6 p.m. Popular Lectures on Thursdays at 5 p.m. Restaurant, (expensive. ) The gardens are the property of the Zoological Society, which was established in 1826, has a muster roll of over 3,000 members, and an annual income of close upon ^30,000. The gardens were visited in 1874, by 706,900 persons. Fellows of 127 the Society pay an entrance fee of ^5 and an annual contribution of ^3, which entitles them to admission to the gardens, with two companions daily, including- Sundays. Further privileges are granted on additional payments being made. Gentlemen desirous of joining should apply to Dr. Ph. L. Sclater, the secretary, 10, Hanover-square. Igg" We suppose the visitor to enter from j Primrose-hill, by the North Lodge, and to I follow the consecutive figures on our plan. An Illustrated Guide to the Gardens is sold j at the entrance, price 6d. On turning to the left we pass No. i r j the NortJi Aviary, recently erected for ! rapacious birds, including Eagles, Hawks, | and Falcons. We cross the canal bridge and again turn to the left. The Reptile-house (No. 2), was erected in 1849, and contains serpents in glass cases, admitting of close examination. Amongst them are Pythons, Boa-con- strictors, Rattlesnakes and others. The Picture Gallery (No. 3) contains a collection of water colour drawings by Wolf. The Marsupials' house (No. 4) contains the more delicate members of the family of Marsupials, all of them natives of Australia and America. In one of the cages is an Ant-eater, a curious animal. Passing through we enter the Sloths' house (No. 5). On leaving this we turn to the right and pass the tw r o Kangaroo-sheds (Nos. 6 and 7). The Kangaroos are essentially an Australian family. Ascending the narrow path we pass the Wombats' house (No. 8), which contains two species of that genus of Marsupials. Descending on the other side we observe the inclosure occupied by the Brush Turkey, a Talegalla, a remarkable bird, which conceals its eggs by burying them in a heap of earth, leaves, grass, c., capable of generating and retaining heat, instead of hatching them (No. 9). On reaching the open space we turn to the right to the MarkJiore's house (No. 10),. occupied by a pair of Wild Goats from j Afghanistan, presented to the society in I 1866. 128 25 REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. The Crows' cages (No. u), now face us, and behind them is the Parrots' -house (Xo. 12,) containing one of the richest collections of these birds to be found in Europe. The adjoining Elephant-house (No. 13), has been constructed only recently, and is inhabited by 3 Elephants, 4 Rhinoceroses, and a Tapir. The African Black Rhinoceros was captured near Kasala, in Nubia, in 1868, and is the first specimen of this animal brought to Europe since the days gardens and reach the Deer-sheds (No. 14), which contains several deers from various parts of the world. Observe the spotted Forrnosan and Manchurian deer. Close by is the Beaver-pond (No. 1 5), in which will be seen two Canadian Beavers. Passing at v the back of the premises occupied by the superintendent of the gardens (No. 16), we reach the Hippopotamus-house (No. 17). The oldest of the three hippopotamus was captured on the upper White Nile in of the Romans. The Javan Rhinoceros is the only individual of this species in Europe. The Hairy-haired Rhinoceros was captured in British Burmah, and brought to England in 1872. She was purchased for ,1,250. There is also an Indian Rhinoceros. One of the elephants is Indian, the two others are African. We go past one of the entrances to the 129 1849, when a calf, only three days old. The scar from a wound made by a gaff- hook on that occasion, still remains. A second hippopotamus, a female, was pro- cured in 1853. In the spring of 1872, the female produced her first calf, but it died, and only the third calf, born Nov. 5th, 1872, has survived, and is still with its parents. 130 2.5. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. The Giraffe-bouse (No. 18) adjoins. The first giraffe was brought to England in 1827, but did not survive long. The Society obtained its first four giraffes in 1836, from M. Thibaut, who had caught them in Kordofan. The female gave birth to no less than seven fawns before her death in October, 1852. In the autumn of 1866 a fire occurred in this house, resulting in the death of two ani- mals, and the old male died soon after- wards about 20 years old. There are now two males and three females, the oldest of them born in 1853. The adjoining Eland- Jumse {No. 19) contains several splendid antelopes, including the eland first im- ported into England by the late Earl of Derby in 1840. On leaving this house we pass along the Ostrich-house (No. 20), which contains ostriches from Africa, rheas or American ostriches, emeus and cassowaries from Australia, and the Kiwi or apterix from New Zealand, a wingless bird. We now return along the front of the various buildings already inspected, pas- sing on the road the Gazelles' -sheds (No. 21), and traversing a tunnel, we enter the main portion of the gardens. We turn to the right. The Llamas' -house (No. 22) is inhabited by three species of Llamas. At the back of it there are several native and foreign owls, and opposite is the Dove-cot (No. 23), a cage now occupied by short-winged rails from the Pacific Islands. The Wolves' den (No. 24) is tenanted by an American, Arctic, and a common European wolf. The Northern- pond (No. 25) with its enclosure, is one of the principal breeding-places of the water- fowL Opposite to it is the Water-fowls' Lawn (No. 26), where the sacred Ibis of the Egyptians and the Flamingos deserve notice. The Eastern Aviary (No. 27) faces this lawn. It contains hornbills, curassows, and other tropical birds. Higher up is the Pelican? Enclosure ' No. 28). We now return part of the way, and pass between the Eagle Owls' Aviary (No. 29), and the Camel-house (No. 30) to the dens below the Terrace, not all tenanted. In the Camel House will be found the common camel or dromedary, and a two-humped camel, born in the Engineers' Camp, on the heights of Se- bastopol, in 1855. The Bear-pond (No. 31) is devoted to the polar or ice-bear. On the other side of the Terrace is the Bear-pit {^Q. 32), generally tenanted by a European brown bear and an American black bear. We next reach the Monkey -house (No. 33), a light and sunny building completed in 1864. Amongst the numerous monkeys whose gambols may be watched here from a safe distance, are the chimpanzee, the orang-outang, the ma got or Barbary ape (the only monkey which still lives in Europe, on the rock of Gibraltar). Le- murs and bats are likewise lodged in this building. The Western Aviary (No. 34 follows next. It was built in 1851, and contains some of the most interesting birds of the collection, principally natives of Australia, the Indian Archipelago, and America. We now pass the enclosures devoted to Storks (35 and 36), Cranes*(sj\ Pheasants (39), and Turkeys (39). The collection of storks is particularly rich, and contains nearly all known species, amongst which the Marabout, an African bird the neck and head of which are naked is one of the most interesting. We now find our- selves in front of the SOUTHERN PONDS No. 40), where those water-fowl are kept, which are most adapted for being accli- matized in this country. One of the ponds is given up to gulls, the two others princi- pally to ducks, who breed here in security, being protected by a stout iron netting against rats. Turning to the right, we reach the Rodents' -house (No. 41), con- taining some of the larger species of that class of animals, including the crested porcupine. Next to it is the Swine- house (No. 42), where the Ethiopian hog, and the peccary, the American repre- sentative of that useful family, may be seen. We now walk along the south- western boundary of the gardens, having the Southern Ponds on our right, and soon reach the Goost-ponds (No. 43) and the Seal-pond (No. 44). The latter is tenanted by a common seal, a Patagonian 132 25. REG-ENT STREET, REG-ENT'S PARK", AND ZOOLOG-ICAL GARDENS. sea-lion (brought from the Falkland Is- lands in 1867), and a smaller sea-lion from the Cape (brought to England in 1871). At first these animals were very fierce, but captivity soon tamed them. The Phea- sant J Aviaries (No. 45) contain many specimens of these beautiful game birds, brought from the Himalaya, and from other prats of Asia. On the other side of the path is the Pea-fowls' Aviary (No. 46). The common pea-fowl is a native of India. We then pass along the NEW DEER-HOUSE (No. 47), which contains the larger species of deer, including the Wapiti, the Barbary and Cashmeerian deer, the Samburt deer, and several others of great interest. On reaching the south entrance of the gardens, we turn to the left. Three Island-pond (No. 48) is a favourite breeding-place of the pintail, the shoveller, widgeon, duck, and other water- fowl. The path on the left takes us past a small enclosure (No. 49), at one time tenanted by a gems-buck and Kashmir goats, and past the Sheep-sheds (No. 50)^ tenanted only by wild sheep, all of whom i have bred in the gardens, to the CATTLE- | SHEDS (No. 51), occupied by several | interesting specimens of the genus Bos, including the gayal from Bengal, the Indian zebu or sacred ox (presented by the Queen in 1862), and the Cape buffalo. Opposite is the LIONS' HOUSE, opened November, 1875. ^ contains 6 lions, 8 tigers, 3 leopards, 3 pumas, and 2 jaguars, whose transport from the old dens under- neath the terrace, was attended with considerable difficulties. Having passed through this House we find ourselves opposite to the entrance to the new ANTELOPE AND ZEBRA HOUSES (Nos. 53 and 54), which contain most of the antelopes of the society, as well as a complete series of the representatives of the horse tribe, including the wild ass of Tibet (the only example of this animal in Europe), the onager, the zebra and the quagga. On leaving this building we turn to the right, pass the Waders' Enclosure (No. 55), turn to the left, keeping the Three Island Pond (No. 48) on our right, and enter the FISH HOUSE (No. 56), a build- ing erected in 1852, the first public aquarium on a large scale. The tanks contain a good collection of salt-water fishes and other marine animals, as well as ^ specimens of many of the common fresh-water fishes of the British islands. A series of tanks is fitted up for fish- hatching. An adjoining compartment contains a darter, a remarkable Brazilian bird, and there is also an aviary for aquatic birds. fgJT The Restaurant adjoins the Fish House. We proceed next to No. 57, the Vultures' Aviary, where imperial eagles, condors, and other birds may be seen. Turning back in a northerly direction we pass the Garganeys 1 Ponds (No. 58). Opposite to it are the Racoons' Cages (No. 59), inhabited by racoons and other hairdymammals of temperate and northern regions. Close to it is one of the Small Mammals' -Jwuses (No. 60), and a little further on a larger one (No. 61), which contains principally quadrupeds incapable of sustaining the climate of England with- out protection. Amongst these are the ocelot, the serval, the ichneumon, the grison, the marmot and many others. The Winter Aviary (No. 62) has been alienated from its original destination, and now accommodates several carni- verous animals, such as foxes, jackals, and civets. Close to it is the Mandarin Ducks' Pond (No. 63), the Kite? Aviary (No. 64), and the Otters' Cage (No. 66) The Eagles Aviaries (No. 66) contain specimens of sea eagles, golden eagles and others. The Pond (No. 67) close to this aviary, used to be occupied by sturgeons and by a salamander. We now proceed to the Terrace, and having ascended the steps, follow the Terrace walk to the main entrance of the Gardens, opposite to which is a fountain presented by the Baroness Burdett- Coutts. l^On leaving the Cardans -turn to the left and enter Regent's-park by the nearest gate. The right-hand walk leads straight to the suspension bridge over the lake. '33 23.-BELaRAVIA, MAYFAIR, AND TYBURNIA. Distance: 6 miles (from Charing-cross- back to Piccadilly.) lgg If it is proposed to visit the Grosvenor and Hertford Galleries, tickets of admission should be secured beforehand. This walk takes us through some of the finest quarters of London, such as but few foreign cities can boast of, and though few strangers may feel inclined to walk the whole of the six miles, which it includes, they should at least have a peep at Belgrave-square, Grosvenor- square and Westbourne-terrace in Pad- dington, whenever chance brings them near one of these places. Igg An omnibus may be taken from Char- ing Cross to Hyde-park Corner (Plan D 6). Descend, and have a look at Belgrave-square, which is close by. Then take the red omnibus which starts from Victoria-station, and pro- ceeds along Grosvenor-place, Park-lane, and Edgware-road to the Paddington'-station (Plan B 5). Descend, walk on foot to Westbourne- grove, return through Junction-road, etc., to Edgware-road, and then take an omnibus to Charing-cross. By following this plan the distance to be walked is reduced to a trifle over a mile. lgf" A yellow omnibus passing along Edg- ware-road and at the Back of Paddington HYDE P" '35 Station, proceeds every 15 minutes to Kensal- green Cemetery (about one mile beyond Plan A 3), a visit to which may thus conveniently be combined with this walk. We start from Charing Cross, and,, walking through the enclosure of St. James's Park, proceed to the Victoria Station, the fine hotel of which (Grosvenor Hotel) was built from the designs of J. T. Knowles. Belgrai'ia, one of the most fashionable quarters of London, now lies to the north. of us. The greater portion of it was built between 1826-52, on ground belonging to the Duke of Westminster. Several of the houses are quite modern, and they are amongst the largest private residences in London. We cross the two triangular open spaces in front of us (Grosvenor Gardens), and turning to the left, enter EATON-SQUARE, one of the most exten- tensive in London, but not othenvise re- markable. We are now close to BELGRAVE- SQUARE, the centre of Belgravia, built 1826-33 by Geo. Bassevi. Passing through Wilton Crescent we reach Knightsbridge* and turning to the right, HYDE PARK CORNER, described on p. 100. The build- ing at the corner is ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL, founded in 1733 (the present building by Wilkins, 1829). The cele- brated Dr. Hunter was house-surgeon at. this hospital. It may perhaps be worth while, on reaching Knightsbridge, to turn to the left, in order to have a look at Taitersairs, the celebrated horse- mart, established in 1795 by Richard Tatter- sail, the jockey of the Duke of Kingston, and subsequently proprietor of " Highflyer," a celebrated race-horse, whose achievements enriched its owner. There is stabling here . for 400 .horses. Sales take place on Mondays, and during the season, also on Thursdays. MAYFAIR lies to the east of Hryde Park Corner, and up to the close of the last century it was the scene of many rough festivities. It is now much affected by fashionable doctors. We turn up PARK LANE, which we follow as far as Oxford-street. Holder- nesse House (S. and B. Wyatt, architects), town residence of Earl Vane, faces a gorgeous monument, recently erected. Stanhope-street, a little further on, leads to Chesterfield House, erected by I. Ware 136 26. BELGRAVIA, MAYFAIR, AND TYBUBNIA. for the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield (died 1773), author of " Letters to his Son," &c., columns and grand stair-case formed a part of the Cannons, a noted mansion of the Duke of Chandos. Dorchester House is close by. It is the property of R. S. Holford, Esq., and was built by L. Vulliamy. It contains a valuable collec- tion of pictures. A short distance higher up we perceive the back of GROSVENOR HOUSE, the front of which faces Upper Grosvenor-street. It is the town residence of the Duke of Westminster, and contains a celebrated collection of pictures, most liberally thrown open to the public on certain days (see p. 25). Reubens. Ten landscapes by Claude Lorrain. Mrs. Siddons, by SirJ. Reynolds. The blue boy, and a cottage-door, by Gainsborough. At length we reach the north-eastern corner of Hyde Park, and the MARBLE ARCH, a stunted imitation of the Arch of Constantine, which stood in front of Buckingham Palace until 1850, and was intended to bear the equestrian statue of George IV., now in Trafalgar-square. The bas-reliefs on the north side are by Sir R. Westmacott, those on the south side by Baily. Close by stood the gallows of Tyburn, thus named after a small village and brook, which disappeared long ago. The body of Oliver Cromwell was buried at its foot, and his head stuck up at Westminster Hall, after the Restoration. The fine quarter of the town to the north of Hyde Park, including portions of Paddington and Bayswater, is popu- larly known as TYBURNIA. It was laid out in 1839-50, and the arrangement and diversity of its streets reflect credit upon its founder. The stranger should by no means omit penetrating into some of them. We would suggest to him to walk out- side the railing of Hyde Park as far as the water works and Italian garden, at the head of the Serpentine, where there is a statue of Dr. Jenner; then to leave the Park, and to inspect Westbourne Grove, Junction-road, and Southwick ^/?:-&iE??Cfc; 1 ^^CiyX ?^^/!^^iSj?&? -*-*^^r~ir-B2 "' ." \ v Cv" ; . ir" r\" f'" " TI'"~A ri~~-i?~r-~if^r*fi;f;*-h\4 JkY ...D. E.-.F A...R t=d Observe: Five paintings, by Raphael. The women taken in adultery, by Titian. The Annunciation, and Marriage at Cana, by Paul Veronese. Infant Christ sleeping, by Guido Reni. Own portraits, by Salvator Rosa and Velasouez. Sarah dismissing Hagar, by '37 Crescent, all of them shown on tne small plan annexed. Paddington Station and its big hotel will hardly repay a visit. We then cross Edgware-road and pro- ceed along Upper Berkeley-street to '38 27. CENTRAL LONDON. PORTMAN SQUARE (see plan on p. igS), built 1790-1800. In the detached house, to the left, on enter- ing the square, lived Mrs. Montagu, who held here her bluestocking parties and entertained the sweeps on May -day. We now visit the undermentioned Squares in succession. : MANCHESTER SQUARE ; on its north side the sumptuous mansion of the late Marquis of Hertford, now the property of his nephew, Sir Richard Wallace, with one of the most celebrated collections of paintings and articles of vertu in the world. Observe: The Rape of Europa, by Titian. La Vierge de Fade, by Andrea del Sarto. Four holy families, by Murillo. Holy family, and Rainbow landscape, by Reubens. The unmerciful servant by Rembrandt. Portraits of Phillippe and Madame le Roy, by Vandyck. Water mill, by Hobberna. Fishmonger, by A. Van Ostade. Views of Venice, by Canaletto. Nelly O'Brien and other portraits, by Reynolds. Now across Oxford-street to GROSVENOR SQUARE, (plan p. 135) built 1720-30, with a statue of George I., by Van Noost. The Cato-street conspiracy is connected with No. 39 on the south side of the square, where the members of the Cabinet M-ere to be mur- dered during dinner by Thistlewood and his fellow conspirators, who proposed to overthrow the Government, and to establish a sort of commune in London. Their plot was betrayed and the conspirators arrested in Cato-street, on the 23rd February, 1820, BERKELEY SQUARE, built 1730-40. On its south side Lansdowne House (Robert Adam, arch). Priestley, the discoverer of oxygen, was librarian to the Marquis. Horace Walpole died in No. II (1797,) Lord Clive in No. 45. We now return to Piccadilly and Charing Cross 27. CENTRAL LONDON. Distance: 7 miles. There are but few opportunities of appreciably shortening this journey by omnibus ; but see our Plan of London. lgi|r Soane's Museum open on Wednesdays, Thursday?, and Fridays, (but see p. 28). The Surgeons' Museum, open Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, 12 to $. Foundling Hospital, Mondays 10 4, Sundays 1 1 3. Flaxman Museum, Saturdays 10 4. British Museum, Mondays, Wednes- days, Fridays, and Saturdays. We include by this name that portion of London which lies between the City and the West End, and to the north of the Strand, We start, as usual, from Charing Cross. Our first object is COVENT GARDEN MARKET, the great vegetable and flower market of London, established in the middle of the ijth century, the present buildings erected in 1 830 ( W. Fowler, architect). Inigo Jones, the great architect, proposed to convert this square into an Italian Piazza, but only the northern side was completed (1630-45), and the market is altogether unworthy of the IVietropolis. It is the 139 property of the Duke of Bedford, who derives a large revenue from tolls and rents. 140 27. CENTRAL LONDON. ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, at the western side of the market, was rebuilt after a fire in 1795 (by Hardwicke), in accordance with Inigo Jones's original design. Many celebrities are buried in the church and the churchyard attached to it, amongst others Butler, the author of Hudibras; Grin- ling Gibbons, the sculptor; Sir Peter Lely, the painter; Dr. Arne, the composer of "Rule Britannia "; Dr. Walcot (Peter Pindar), and others. EVANS'S HOTEL, at the western termination of the Arcade, is noted for its music hall (see P- 35) 5 steaks, potatoes, and stout. At the table to the left of the fire-place, in the sub- terranean dining-room, Dickens, Thackeray, and other choice spirits used to meet frequently. Great Russell-street leads from Covent Garden into Bow-street. On the right, site of Button's coffee-house where the Whigs used to meet under Acklison's leadership. Near it (No. 8) bookseller's shop, where Boswell first met Dr. Johnson. On the opposite side of the street, at the corner of Bow-street, site of Will's coffee-house, fre- quented by the Tories under Dryden. Walking up Bow-street we pass between the police station (on right) and the principal London police court (on left). The former marks the site of a house in which Fielding wrote "Tom Jones." Immediately beyond is H COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, the finest theatre in London, and the third on its present site. The first Covent Garden Theatre was erected in 1732, but burnt down. A second house was opened in 1809, by Kemble. It had been built from the designs of Sir R. Smirke, and ornamented with two statues and bas- reliefs by Flaxman, which still remain, as do also the columns of Smirke's portico. Kemble, on opening the new house, in- creased the prices, and hence the O.P. (old price) rows, which continued for 67 consecutive nights. In 1847 the theatre became a home for Italian Opera. The second fire took place in 1856, after a masked ball arranged by Anderson, the " Wizard of the North," but the house was rebuilt within seven months, under the direction of Mr. E. M. Barry, who effected great improvements in the arrangements of the auditorium and of the stage. The building is 122 feet wide and 240 feet in 1+1 length. The corinthian portico is 82 feet wide, and the 6 columns are 36^ feet in height. The stage is 90 feet square, and the proscenium 50 feet high. The audi- torium accommodates 1,915 persons. The adjoining Floral Hall was built in 1859 (E. M. Barry, architect), and is used for concerts, as a promenade during the opera season, &c. Its dome rises to a. height of 90 feet. t$ir We now return to Great Russell-street,, and turning to'the left, reach DRURY LANE THEATRE, the oldest theatre of London, first opened in 1663, when the " King's Company," under Killi- grew, moved hither from the neighbouring cockpit It was burnt down for the first time in 1672. In the second house Garrick trod the stage. This too was destroyed by fire in 1794, rebuilt, but again destroyed in 1809. The present edifice was opened in 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. Its architect was Mr. B. Wyatt, but the- .portico (with a statue of Shakespeare), as, well as the Colonnade, were added only at a late date, and until this was done the exterior, must have had a very barren- appearance. In the -vestibule a statue of Edmund Kean (by Carew), and a bust of Balfe. Since the desertion of Her Majesty's Opera House in the Haymarket, in 1867, Drury-lane' has afforded a temporary home to one of the two Italian opera companies, which is expected to move next year into the National Opera- House, now in course of construction on the Thames Embankment. The Colonnade takes us into DRURY" LANE, up to the reign of William III. one- of the fashionable quarters of London ; now one of its most unsavoury streets, with numerous narrow alleys, the seats of poverty and vice. We turn to the left. On the right hand, Pit-place, the site of the Cock-pit Theatre, the parent of the present Drury-lane. Higher up in Drury-lane is Coal-yard, the birth place of Nell Gwynne. On reaching GREAT QUEEN STREET, we turn to the right. The south side of this street was originally built by Inigo Jones, about 1630, and for a century it remained one of the most fashionable - 14.2 27.-CENTRAL LONDON. quarters of London ; several of its houses still date from that epoch. The north side was built a century later. Amongst cele- brated persons who have lived in this street are Hudson, (the master of Sir J. Reynolds), Sir Godfrey Kneller, and Lord Herbert of Cherbury. The most important building in it is the Freemasons' Hall, built in 1777, with the exception of the front, which is modern. Little Queen-street branches off to the left. Lord Russell was led down it to the scaffold in Lincoln's Inn Fields. If, instead of proceeding along Great Queen- street, we turn down Great Wild-street, on the right, we reach Little Wild-street (second turning on the left) on the Southern side of which stood Watt's printing-office, where Franklin worked as a compositor. LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS are the largest i square in London, and are stated to j occupy an area equal to that occupied i by the great Pyramid. They were laid out in 1619-36. Lindsey House, on the west side (2 vases) was built by Inigo Jones, who proposed to surround the whole square by houses uniform in style ; and in Newcastle House, at the corner of Queen Street, lived Lord j Chancellors Somers, Cowper and Harcourt, j and Thomas Pelham Holies, Duke of i Newcastle. On the south side were the | residences of Lord Chancellors Camden, i Loughborough and Erskine, and down to the present time the fields are a favourite residence of lawyers. Lord William Russell and Algernon Sidney were beheaded in the Fields in 1683. Amongst the buildings surrounding the square are Soane's Museum and the College of Surgeons. In Portugal Street, behind, and partly on the site of this College, stood the Duke's Theatre (Sir William Davenant, 1662-71). SOANE'S MUSEUM, (for hours of admission, see p. 28), was formed by Sir John Soane, the son of a bricklayer, who made himself a reputation as an Architect, and is placed in a house built and planned by himself, which, together with its contents, was left to the nation in 1837. It is crowded with antiquities, pic- tures, books and curiosities, and the most ingenious contrivances have been invented, to exhibit so extensive a collection within so narrow a space. '43 Observe: In the vestibule, a model of the excavations made at Pompeii, up to 1818. The ceilings of the dining-room and library are by Howard. Over the mantle-piece, a portrait of the founder, (by Sir Thomas Lawrence.) In the basement, an Egyptian Sarcophagus or cenotaph discovered by Belzoni, in 1816, and formed of a single piece of alabaster. The drawing-rooms on the first floor contain ivory furniture from the Palace of Tippoo Sahib, a collection of gems, and several valuable paintings, including Hogarth's " The Rakes Progress, " a land- scape by Turner, and Sir Joshua Reynolds' " Snake in the grass." Amongst the literary treasures are the original manuscript of Tasso's " Gerus alemme liberata," and the first four folio editions of Shakespeare. The ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS be- longs to the Corporation of Surgeons, whose charter dates from the year 1800, and who enjoy the privilege of granting diplomas (after due examination), entitling their holders to practice medicine within the limits of the United Kingdom. The College was re- modelled in 1835-6 by Charles Barry, and contains a museum, a library and a Lecture Hall. The Museum occupies three rooms, the first containing a pathological, the second a paloeontological, and the third a physiological collection. Its basis consists of the valuable collection of John Hunter, the celebrated sur- geon (born 1728, near Glasgow, died 1793 in London), which was purchased by Government for ;i5,ooo. Amongst the curiosities which a casual visitor should notice are the skeleton of O'Brien, the Irish giant, 8 feet 4 inches in height, the skeleton of Caroline Crachani, of Sicily, a dwarf, 20 inches in height, the skele- tons of an Irish elk, and of other antidiluvian animals. In the Hall, there is a fine portrait of John Hunter (by Sir Joshua Reynolds.) LINCOLN'S INN is a corporation of lawyers, similar to those of the two Temples, who appear settled here as early as the 1/j.th century, but were incorporated only in 1580. To the left of the entrance is the new Hall, completed in 1845 in the Tudor style of the I4th century, by Ph. Hard wick, with an octagon tower added in 1872, by Sir J. Scott. The hall is 120 feet in length, and contains a large fresco by Watts, " The School of Legislation," representing the law-givers of the world, from Moses to Edward I. ; a painting bv Hogarth (Paul preaching before Felix) 144 27.- CENTRAL LONDON. and a statue of Erskine (by Westmacott). The library is on the other side of the vestibule. Crossing the square, New-square, on the right, was finished about 1697 ; Old- square in front was built in part in 1683 ; and the Stone-buildings to the left elate from 1780 and 1845, we reach the Old Hall, an insignificant building, in which the Courts of Chancery used to sit occasionally (Read Dickens's "Bleak House.") In it the Benchers entertained Charles II., in 1671. It has recently been fitted up for the new Court of Appeal. The Chapel adjoins it. It was conse- crated in 1623 (Inigo Jones, architect), and stands upon open arches. We pass out through a Gatehouse, the oldest part of the Inn, erected in 1518, and enter CHANCERY LANE, which leads to Hoi- born. We turn off, however, on reaching Southampton-row, pass the Birkbeck In- stitution, the most successful Mechanics' Institution in London, cross STAPLE INN, and enter HOLBORN, one of the main thorough- fares of the metropolis, thus named from a rivulet (Oldbourne), which ran into the Fleet, near the present Holborn Viaduct. It was the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at Tyburn. In front Gray's Inn Road, behind us some interesting houses, dating back to the 1 6th century. The narrow alley, to the right of Gray's Inn-road "Holboru Buildings" leads to Fox Court, where was bom RicJiard Savage, the poet, son of Lord Rivers and the Countess of Macclesfield, (1698). The next street to the right (Brooke-street), leads to the church of Si. Attaris (Butterfield, architect), one of the most notorious ritualistic places of worship, opened in 1853. The in- terior is decorated with much splendour. We proceed a short distance up Hol- born, and, passing through a gateway (built 1592) on the right, enter the south court of GRAY'S INN, one of the four inns of court, named after the Lords Gray of Wilton, from whom they leased this pro- perty 1371. On the left the fine Hall, built 1560. Passing through this court, >ve reach the Gardens, planted about 1600, H5 and a fashionable promenada in the time of Charles II. The great Lord Bacon is said to have planted several trees in this garden, none of which remain. He lived in a house on the site of No. I, Gray's Inn-square, to the north of the Hall. We now proceed along Bedford-row (Dr. Abernethy died in No. 14 ; the Ento- mological Miiseum in No. 12, see p. 25), and Lamb's Conduit-street, an uninviting thoroughfare, to the FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, an institution founded by Captain Thomas Coram in 1739, whose statue stands in front of it. This charity has lost its original charac- ter, for owing to the vast number of "foundlings" brought up to London by "agents" from all parts of the country, and deposited in the basket hung up at the door, it was found necessary (in 1780) to restrict the reception to illegitimate children whose mother is known and bears a good character. The hospital has an annual income of ,12,000. About 300 children are educated at the hospital, and 1 60 nurslings are placed with respectable families in the country. The present buildings were erected in 1745-47 (Th. Jacobson, architect). In the chapel is an organ, presented by Handel, and on it he repeatedly performed his oratorio, " The Messiah," for the benefit of the institution. The altar painting is by West. Amongst the pictures shown to visitors are a por- trait of Captain Coram, by Hogarth ; the March to Finchley, by the same artist ; portrait of Lord Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sutton's Hospital (Charterhouse), by Gainsborough ; and several others, most of which were pre- sented to the institution. The children sing at the Sunday morning service, when visitors are admitted, and their juvenile band plays on Mondays, from 3 to 4. On leaving the hospital, we turn to the left, and soon reach GRAY'S INN LANE. Close by, the Middlesex House of Correction, with accommodation for 1200 prisoners, on the cellular system. On the road to King's-cross, we pass the FREE HOSPITAL, one of the few hos- pitals in London which admits the suffer- ing without a recommendation from a 146 27. CENTRAL LONDON. governor. Its funds, perhaps on that very account, are not very flourishing. KING'S CROSS is one of the great centres of traffic. On the right we pass the station of the Metropolitan Railway, which extends thence underground along the whole of Euston-road and New-road, and is connected by underground branches with the great railway stations to be noticed presently. The station of the Great Northern Railway abuts upon the open space in front of us. Beyond it rise the towers of the magnificent PANCRAS STATION of the Midland Railway Com- pany (Sir Gilbert G. Scott, architect ; W. H. Barlow, engineer). It is a gothic brick-building, faced with Portland stone. The front is 564 feet in length ; the clock- tower rises to a height of 278 feet ; the central-tower to 200 feet. The roof of the station, behind the hotel, is 700 feet long, 240 feet wide, and 98 feet high in the centre. The floor rests upon 600 cast- iron pillars, and the space beneath it is used as stores for beer. Pancras-road, to the right of this station leads to Pancras Church, a neat building in the Norman style, built in 1848. In the church- yard, the tomb of Paoli, the leader of the Corsicans (died 1807), and of many other foreigners of distinction. On the road thither we pass the German Gymnasium (EX Craning, architect.) Continuing our walk along the, Euston- road, we soon emerge upon Eust 'on-square. At its corner new ST. PANCRAS. CHURCH built 1819-22 (Messrs. In wood, architects). It is in the classical style, and combines the Erechtheum, with the temple of Minerva Polias, and other ancient build- ings. On reaching the statue of R. Stephenson, we turn to the right. We thus face the fine doric gate leading into the court-yard of EUSTON STATION (P. C. Hardwick, architect). In the hall of the station another statue of Stephenson and bas- reliefs, by S. Thomas, personifying the leading commercial towns of England. We return to Euston-road. On reaching Gower-street, we turn to the left, to UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. This institu- tion of learning was founded in 1828 by the exertions of Brougham and others, at H7 a time when the great Universities were closed against all except members of the- Established Church. There are two facul- ties of Arts, Laws and Science, and of Medicine, and everything almost is taught except Divinity. A school for boys is- attached to the college. The number of professors and masters is 83. The building was erected from a design by \V- Wilkins. A broad flight .of steps leads up to a Corinthian portico, surmounted by a dome, beneath which is placed the Flaxman Museum, containing the original models of many of the most celebrated works of this celebrated sculptor. In the cloister below, illustra- tions from Homer, in marble niello, by Baron de Triqueti, presented to the College by Mr. Grote, the banker and historian. The Hospital opposite is attached to the medical school of the college. On leaving the college turn to the left and take the first turning on the left, which brings you to Torrington Square and the- Apostolic Church, a fine early Gothic building (Brandon, architect). Next to it the College Hall of University College, in the Elizabethan style (by Donaldson). We now cross Gordon, Square an:! 1 Tavistock Square. In No. 37, Tavistock-place, Bailey made his celebrated experiments on the weight of the earth. Woburn Place takes us to RUSSELL. SQUARE, built 1800-1806, and is the prin- cipal square in Bloomsbury. There is a. statue of a Duke of Bedford (by Westmacott). In No. 71, lived Lord Chancellor Lough - borough, in 67, Mr. Justice Talfourd, in 65, died Sir Thomas Lawrence. The street opposite the statue takes us- to BLOOMSBURY SQUARE, built 1690-1710, with a statue of C. J. Fox (by Sir R. Westmacott). Mr. Isaac Disraeli, the father of the Prime Minister, lived ir No. 6. We are now close to the BRITISH MUSEUM which will be fully described im i chapter 40. Not far from here is Bedford-square, built at: j the same time as Russell-square, and hard!}' ! worth a visit. 148 28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. Museum Street, opposite to the Museum, leads down to NEW OXFORD STREET. On the left, St. Georges Bloomsbury (Hawkesmoor, architect, 1731,) with Roman portico and pyramidal spire, sur- mounted by a statue of George III. disguised as St. George. We now walk along New Oxford-street as far as Tottenham Court Road. This fine street was opened in 1847 and leads through what was known formerly as the " Rookery " of St. Giles, a resort for thieves and disreputable persons. On the road we pass Bloomsbury-street, where three churches belonging to three different professions stand side by side. At the corner of TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD stands Meux's Brewery, and close to it the "Horse-shoe," with bar and dining rooms. A flying visit may be paid to SOHO-SQUARE, which was built in 1670-90, and has a statue of Charles II in its centre. In the north- west angle is the Soho Bazaar, which should be visited on an afternoon, when fashion- able ladies do their shopping here. Sir Joseph Banks and Robert Brown, the botanist, lived in a house in the south-western angle of the square. We turn down the street opposite Tottenham Court Road, which leads through Sf. Giles, one of the poorest quarters in London, to Charing Cross. On the right St. dies' Church, with a fine steeple and much admired interior, by Flitcroft (1753). On arriving at the Seven Dials, where seven streets branch off in different direc- tions, we can either continue along St. Martin's Lane (the Westminster County Court on the right) to Charing Cross, or we can turn off to the left and proceed through Garrick-street, (where the Garrick Chib, established 1 83 1, for actors and their patrons), to Covent Garden Market. 28.-STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. Distance : 3 miles, including all digressions. Strand and Fleet-street constitute per- haps the most important thoroughfare in all London, and from the earliest times they have been the great highway con- necting Westminster with the City of London. At that time no houses separated this high road from the " Strand" of the river Thames. At a subsequent date the space between it and the river was occu- pied by the mansions of lords temporal and spiritual. The first houses on the north side were built in the time of Edward VI. The Strand is now one of the busiest streets for the retail trade, with numerous fine shops, and the majority of the west-end theatres in it, or within its immediate vicinity. The first building which strikes the stranger on walking towards the City is the CHARING CROSS HOTEL (E. M. Barry, architect). In front of it an imitation of the Eleanor Cross, which formerly stood at Charing Cross, and marked the last stopping place of the body 149 of Edward I.'s queen on the way to West- minster Abbey. Behind the Hotel, the Charing Cross Station, with a roof 450 ft. long, 170 feet wide, and 100 feet high. The ball of the Telegraph office opposite drops at I p.m. Greenwich time, an event always watched by a small crowd, anxious to regulate their watches. Immediately to the east of the Station is the site of York House, in which was born the great Lord Bacon, and which subsequently passed into the possession of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the favourite of James I. The " Watergate" at the foot of Buckingham-street, is the only remnant of this ancient Mansion. Durham-house, originally built by a bishop of Durham, in the reign of Edward I, adjoined York House on the east. Lord Guildford and Lady Jane Grey celebrated their nuptials in it, ( l $53)' Queen Elizabeth presented it to Sir Walter Raleigh. Subsequently it was converted into an Exchange (Britain's purse). Durham- street marks its site. LOWTHER ARCADE, a bazaar abounding in toys and cheap jewellery, is nearly opposite the station. A little beyond, on the same side of the street, is Charing- 150 28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. cross Hospital, opened in 1818. Passing the entrance to the Adelphi Theatre, we turn down Adam-street, on the right, and walk to the Adelphi-terrace, built by the Brothers Adam. Here a fine prospect over the Thames Embankment. In the centre house died Garrick, the actor. The house of the SOCIETY OF ARTS is in John-street, which opens into Adam-street. This society was founded in 1754, for the pro- motion of arts, manufactures and commerce. Under the presidency of Prince Albert, it took the initiative in promoting an International Exhibition in 1851. In the meeting-room are James Barry's allegorical pictures (1777 83). Admission by member's order, or on applica- tion. We return to the Strand. We pass Salisbury and Cecil-streets on the right. They mark the site of Cecil House, built by the first Earl of Salisbury, and pulled down in 1696. On the left is Southampton-street, which leads to Co vent-garden Market (p. 139), and opposite to it stood Worcester House, in which the Duke of York (James II.) was betrothed to the daughter of Lord Chancellor Clarendon. Rimmell's Perfumery shop, on the right was at one time occupied by Lillie, like- wise a perfumer, whom Steele mentions in the "Tattler." Nearly opposite is EXETER HALL, its narrow entrance flanked by tall Corinthian Columns. It was erected in 1831, on the site of an " Exchange" and menagerie (Deering, architects), and accommodates 4,000 persons. It is used for concerts and meetings, in particular the meetings of religious societies, which are held in May. Savoy-street, on the right, leads past the SAVOY CHAPEL to the Thames embankment. The chapel was built by Henry VII, and, having been partly de- stroyed by fire, it was restored in 1865, by the Queen. There is a fine glass window in it (by Willement), in memory of the Prince Consort. Savoy Palace was built by Peter of Savoy, the uncle of Henry the Ill's Queen, (1245), and became subsequently the residence of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. During Wat Tyler's rebellion, (1381), the palace was de- stroyed, and its last fragments were removed when Waterloo Bridge was built. The " Savoy Conference" for the revision of the Liturgy and prayer-book, took place in the chapel after the restoration of Charles II. (1661). A few paces take us hence to Wel- lington-street, (the principal entrance of the Lyceum theatre, a short distance up it, on the left), which leads to Waterloo Bridge, from the centre of which may be enjoyed a fine view of the river front of Somerset House. SOMERSET HOUSE occupies the site of a palace, built by the Protector Somerset, 152 28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. in which Queen Elizabeth, Anne (the wife of James I), and Catherine of Braganza, (the consort of Charles II), held their courts. The present edifice was erected 1776-86, and is considered to be the masterpiece of Sir William Chambers, its architect. The Strand front is 155 feet in length, and consists of a rusticated base- ment surmounted by Corinthian columns, bearing an attica. The nine "masks" on the keystones of the arches represent Ocean (in the centre), and the eight prin- cipal rivers of England, viz. Thames, Humber, Mersey and Dee (on the right), Medway, Tweed, Tyne and Severn, (on the left). The four statues represent Truth, Justice, Courage and Moderation. On the top, the Royal Arms supported by Fame and the Genius of England. In the vestibule leading to the great quadrangle, are the entrance door-ways to the suites of rooms, formerly occupied by the Royal Society, and by the Royal Academy of Arts, and above them busts of Sir Isaac Newton and Michael Angelo. The Quadrangle is 224 feet wide, and 319 feet deep. Facing us a statue of George III, with Father Thames reposing at his feet (by John Bacon). In front the rear of the river front, with an open arcade of Corinthian columns in the centre, sur- mounted by the arms of the Admiralty, and a cupola. Behind us the back of the .Strand front, with statues, representing the four quarters of the World. GUT The entrance to the Will Office is in this quadrangle (open daily, 10 to 4). The wills of Shakespeare, Nelson, Van Dyck, Dr. John- son, Newton, Pitt, and of other celebrities may "be seen there. The river front of Somerset House is best Seen from the centre of Waterloo Bridge, or from the Thames Embankment. The new western front, facing Welling- ton-street, was added, in 1854-6, by Pennethorne, and is 300 feet long. The faqade towards the Thames is one of the noblest in London. It rises from a fine terrace, 600 feet in length. In the centre rises a cupola, above an entablature borne by Corinthian columns. Open arcades separate the main building from ihe t\vo wings. The eastern of these was added in 1829 by Smirke. It is occupied '53 by King's College (see below), and that portion of it which faces towards the Thames alone harmonises with Somerset House. Somerset House is occupied now entirely by Government Offices, and particularly by the Inland Revenue Department, the Registrar General, and certain branches of the Ad- miralty. Until recently, some of the leading scientific Societies, including the Royal Society and the Royal Academy, had the use of suites of apart- ments in Somerset House, but they have now all removed to the New Burlington House, specially built by Government for their accommodation. KING'S COLLEGE adjoins Somerset House on the east, with an entrance from the quadrangle as well as from the Strand. It was founded in 1828, as a rival to Uni- versity College, on the principle, " that every system of general education, for the youth of a Christian community, ought to comprise instruction in the Christian reli- gion, as an indispensable part." There are four departments, as well as a pre- paratory school. There are 50 professors and 33 masters, and the clerical element is unusually strong amongst them. The education is of superior kind. The examinations for degrees are conducted by the London University. The Museum (daily, IO to 4, Saturday, 10 to 2), contains Babbage's calculating machine, a collection of mechanical models and philoso- phical instruments. There is also an Anatomical Museum. ST. MARY-LE- STRAND was built by William Gibbs in 1777. It occupies the spot where in former times stood a tall May-pole, removed, in 1644, by the Puritans, but re-erected with great re- | joicings after the restoration. i Drury Court, a dirty narrow passage to the left, leads to Drury-lane. Nell Gwynne lodged in it in 1667. Holywell- street is behind the church. It is full of secorrd-hand book shops, and owes its name to an ancient well, which still supplies the old Roman Bath in Strand-lane, to the right of the church. We continue our walk along the Strand, passing, in succession, Surrey-street (in which lived Congreve, the actor and play- wright, when Voltaire paid him a visit), '54- 28 STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. Norfolk-street (in which lived William Penn), and Arundel-street (which occu- pies the site of Arundel House, the old town mansion of the Bishop of Bath). Lord Seymour, the guardian of Queen Eliza- beth, when a princess, lived in this house, and subsequently the Earl Arundel, whose cele- brated collection of gems and antiquities, was dispersed in 1678. ST. CLEMENT DANES was built on the site of an older church, in 1680 (Sir Christopher Wren, architect). It is said to owe its name to the many Danes buried in its vicinity. 'Tickett-street, behind the church, is one of the oldest metropolitan improvements, and was effected by means of a lottery, the new houses constituting the prizes ! Clements Inn, (entrance behind the church), one of the Inns of Chancery attached to the Inner Temple, is close by. Justice Shallow was a student at Clements Inn, and Wenceslans Hollar, the engraver, lived in it. The figure of a kneeling Moor was brought from Italy, by an Earl of Clare. The grated doorway of this Inn leads into Clare Market and Vere-street, the latter remarkable as the site of one of the earliest London theatres, at which an actress appeared for the first time in England, in 1660. Now back to the Strand. On the left are rising slowly but steadily the NEW LAW COURTS, designed by Mr. Street. They will be in the gothic style. On the right side are the sites of the Outer Temple and of Essex House ; in front of us is TEMPLE BAR, the only remaining City gate, built in 1670 by Sir C. Wren, and doomed to removal. The outer Temple was leased by the Knights of St. John to the bishops of Exeter, who resided in it from the time of Edward I., to that of Henry VI. Subsequently the use of these buildings was granted to a Duke of Nor- folk, and the Earls of Leicester and Essex. The only remains of it (two columns), may be seen in the high gateway at the bottom of Essex-street. In Devereux Court, (next to Essex-street), stood the old Grecian coffee-house, the oldest in London. We now pass through Temple Bar and enter FLEET STREET, which abounds in reminiscences of literary personages. There are many newspaper offices in it, and close to it some of the largest printing establishments in London, including those of the Daily News, Daily Telegraph, and Standard. On our right, adjoining the bar, is Childs* bank, the oldest in London, and at the side of, it stood, until 1787, the celebrated Devil's Tavern, which was frequented by Ben Jonson, ; Dr. Johnson, Swift and Addison. On the opposite side was Shire-lane, where ' Bickerstaff, the founder of periodical literature in England lived, and the Kit-Kat Club originated . Before continuing along Fleet-street, we visit the Middle and Inner Temple, to which there are several entrances from Fleet-street, besides two from the Strand. The most showy entrance is that through a gaily decorated house opposite Chancery-lane, the occupier of which lives under the delusion that it was at one time the palace of Cardinal Wolsey, and of Henry VIII. J8" We enter the Temple through the first gateway beyond Temple Bar. The visitor should explore the various courts. He will be struck by the quiet which reigns here, as com- pared with the noise in the adjoining Fleet- street. The principal objects of attraction are the Temple Church, the two Halls, and the Temple Gardens. The TEMPLE is the principal amongst the Inns of Court (see p. 84) and was occupied by the Knights Templar from 1184 to 1313. It was then given by Edward II. to the Earl of Pembroke, at whose death it passed to the Knights of St. John, by whom the Inner and Middle Temples were leased to students of law. At the dissolution of the religious houses the Temple property passed to the crown, and in 1608 James I. conferred it on the Benchers (or Governors) of the two law societies who now hold it, and their successors for ever. We walk down Middle Temple Lane to Brick Court and Fountain Court. In Middle Temple lane, lived Dr. John- son (house pulled down), and in No. 2, Brick Court, second floor, died Oliver Goldsmith, the author of the " Vicar of Wakefield." The MIDDLE TEMPLE HALL, on the south side of Fountain Court, was built in 1572. Its exterior was cased with stone in 1757, but the interior is exceedingly handsome, with a fine carved oak-roof, a screen in the renaissance style, and marble busts of Eldon and Stowell, by Behnes. 156 28 STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. A little further down the lane we reach the grated doorway which admits to the INNER TEMPLE. On the right the LIBRARY, in the collegiate gothic style (H. R. Abraham, Architect), opened in 1861. Beyond it the TEMPLE GARDENS, where a fine display of Chrysanthemums :may be seen in autumn. According to Shakespeare, the badges of the : houses of York and Lancaster, red and white ; roses, were first assumed in these Gardens, (Henry VI. 1st Part, Act II. Scene 4). On reaching the open space known as *'' Terrace Walk," we have facing us, i beyond Queen's Bench Walk, a gate lead- ling to Temple-street and the quarter formerly known as Alsatia, and on the left, close by, the new HALL OF THE IINNER TEMPLE, and a passage leading to the Temple Church. The Hall was almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1678-9, but was rebuilt, in 1816, 'by Sydney Smirke. In it is a painting by J. Thornhill, representing Pegasus on '< Mount Helikon, and stained glass windows i by Clayton and Bell. The door of the vestibule dates from 1575, and several other traces of the old Hall, such as the groined arch of the present buttery, re- main. The TEMPLE CHURCH is the joint pro- perty of the societies of the Inner and ! Middle Temple, and one of the few interesting ecclesiastical buildings to be met with in London. It consists of two portions, viz., the Round Church, built in 1185 in the Anglo-Norman style, and a choir in the early English style, completed in 1 240. The church has been carefully irestored in 1837-42, at a cost of 70,000. On the pavement of the Round Church the monumental effigies of several Knights Templar, one of whom is said to be "William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, the Protector of England during the minority of Henry III. (died in 1119). This " Round" served formerly as a place where lawyers received their clients. The choir contains a stained glass window (by Clayton and Bell), and a white marble monument to Selden (died 1654), at the side of the altar. The organ j of the church was built by Schmidt, and j contains 3334 pipes. '57 A circular stairs leads to the Triforium, where several interesting monuments may be seen. On the way to it observe the cell for the bell-ringers with a lychnoscope (squint) affording a view of the altar. Oliver Goldsmith lies buried outside the church, to the east of the choir. No tomb- stone marks his last resting place. The Cloisters adjoining the church were rebuilt by Wren, and were used formerly by students as an ambulatorium. We pass now out of the Temple through the Inner Temple Lane (Dr. Johnson, and Charles Lamb lived in it), and again reach Fleet-street, opposite Chancery -lane. By walking a short distance up this Lane, we reach the LAW INSTITUTION, built 1828-32, by Vulliamy, for a society of attorneys, to whom it offers all the convenience of a club, an. extensive library, and an official register of attorneys and solicitors. Nearly opposite are Serjeant's Inn and Rolls Buildings, the latter with a small church (in the yard), which was used formerly as a Record office, by the Master of the Rolls, whose official residence adjoins it. This church contains a monument ascribed to Torregiano. We return to Fleet-street. The church on the left, ST. DUNSTAN'S IN THE WEST, was built by Shaw, in 1833, and has a fine gothic tower. We walk through the passage on its right into Clifford's Inn, cross it towards the right, and thus reach Fetter-lane and the RECORD OFFICE, a fire-proof building, erected since 1856, in the Gothic style, (Pennethorne, archi- tect), which contains the Records of the king- dom, and amongst others the celebrated Domesday Book, which William the Conqueror caused to be prepared. tjgg State papers dating up to the " Revo- lution" can be consulted daily in the reading room, which is open free. On payment of a small gratuity, the doorkeeper conducts a stranger into some of the fire-proof rooms. We return through Fetter-lane to Fleet- street. At the corner, Peele's Coffee-house, where may be seen files of the Times for many years back ; and on the other side of Fleet-street, Mitre-court, with a tavern, the direct successor of the one frequented by Johnson and Boswell. We now pass again along Fleet-street. Either of the streets on the right leads into a quarter of 158 23. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK. the town known as Whitcfriars, from a carmelite monastery which stood here until the time of Henry VIII., when it became the property of the Bishops of Worcester. The inhabitants of this district managed to secure for themselves many " liberties," which attracted to it insolvent debtors, gamblers, swashbuck- lers, and other bad characters. The dis- trict was known at that time as Alsatia, and its manners have been graphically described in Sir Walter Scott's " Fortunes of Nigel." These privileges at length be- came intolerable, and they were abro- gated in 1696, by Act of Parliament. We pass Cranc-coiirt on the left. At its bottom the Scottish Hospital, in a building which was the meeting place of the Royal Society when Sir Isaac Newton was its president. In Johnson' s-court, No. 7, lived Dr. Johnson 1766-76. If we walk up this court we reach Gough- square, surrounded by noble looking houses, which was reckoned amongst the fashionable quarters of the town, scarcely more than a cen- tury ago. In an attic of No. 1 7, Dr. Johnson completed his dictionary. We return through Bolt-court to Fleet-street, passing No. 8, in which Johnson died. Shoe-lane, on the left, contains a tavern in which rare Ben Jonson kept his revels. Opposite to it is Salisbury-court, leading to Salisbury-square. In its vicinity stood the Duke's Theatre, as early as 1634, upon the boards of which Davenant produced the first opera, in 1662. John Dryden, the poet, and Richardson, the novelist, lived here, and in Dorset-court, close by, Locke wrote his " Essay on the Human Understanding." ST. BRIDE'S CHURCH was completed in 1703 by Sir Christopher Wren, and is looked upon as one of his masterpieces. The fine steeple rises to a height of 234 feet, and is constructed in imitation of the whorls of a species of univalve shell. Amongst those buried in the church are Wynkin de Worde, the printer ; Richard Lovelace, the poet ; Ogilvy, the translator of Homer ; and Richardson, the novelist. We have now reached LUDGATE HILL CIRCUS, surrounded by fine buildings, rendered hideous by glaring advertise- 159 ments. In front of us Ludgate-hill, crossed by a railway bridge, which hides St. Paul's Cathedral ; on the left, Far- ringdon-street, which passes underneath the Holborn Viaduct ; on the right, New Bridge-street, which leads to the new Blackfriars Bridge. The two obelisks commemorate two popular members of Parliament, R. Waithman and J. Wilkes. Farringdon-street and New Bridge-street occupy the site of an old rivulet or ditch, known as the Fleet, The gothic building in Farringdon-street, the Congregational Memo- rial Hall, occupies the site of the Old Fleet Prison, of inglorious memory, whence some of the earliest martyrs to liberty of conscience, walked to the place of execution (Greenwood and Barrow, in 1593). The building is the head quarters of the Congregationalists or Independents, and was opened in 1874, (Architect, Tarring). We now proceed up LUDGATE HlLL. About the middle of it, close to St. Martin's Church (architect, Sir C. Wren), stood the ancient City gate, which was named after a fabulous King Lud. Behind this church (access through Stationer's Hall Court), stands STATIONERS' HALL, the Hall of the Company of Stationers, which was incorporated by Philip and Mary, in 1557, with a view of checking the publication of heretical books. James I. granted it the privilege of being the sole printers of almanacks, primers, psalters and psalms. This privilege has long ago been abrograted, (though the Stationers continue to publish their almanack), but every book published in the United Kingdom has to be entered at Stationers' Hall, in order to in- sure to it the advantages of copyright. We return to Ludgate-hill and soon afterwards emerge upon St. Paul's Churchyard, the open space which sur- rounds St. Paul's Cathedral, fully described in chapter 38. In front of the Cathedral an indifferent statue of Queen Anne, to whom Britannia, Gallia, Hibernia and America do homage. On the north side there are favourite drapers' shops, on the south side several fine warehouses, and a gateway leading into Doctors' Com- mons. Doctors' Commons, at one time the centre of the Doctors, and Courts of ecclesiastical and maritime law, but now comparatively deserted, as most of the law-business has been removed 160 23.-STBAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BATTF. to Westminster, and the Will Office has found a new home in Somerset House. Cocker, the popular arithmetician, lived in a house a little beyond the entrance to Doctors' Commons. ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL stands behind the Cathedral, and the fine spire of St. Augustine (by Wren) peeps out to the right of it. This public school was founded in 1512, by Dean Colet, for 153 boys, and was placed by him under the superintendence of the Mercers' Company . The present income is about .5000 a year. The boys receive a good classical education, and may carry off exhibitions. The present school-building was erected in 1823 (G. Smith, architect). Amongst celebrated scholars were Milton, the Duke of Marlborough, Haley. On emerging from St. Paul's Church- yard we enter CHEAPS IDE, the centre of the retail trade in the city, leading to the Bank. At its bottom a statue of Robert Peel (by Behnes). Behind this statue Paternoster-row, a gloomy street, in former times occupied by dealers in " paternosters " or rosaries, now the head- quarters of the London publishing trade. In Forster-lane (on the left) St. Vedast's one of Wren's churches, with a fine steeple. Milton was born in Bread-street, the third street on the right, where also stood the Mermaid Tavern frequented by Shake- speare, Sir W. Raleigh and Ben Jonson. Nearly opposite to it is Milk-street, in which was born Sir Thomas More. The CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL in Milk- street, was established in 1835, for the educa- tion of the sons of professional and commercial men. There is a small endowment, and a few exhibitions are connected with it, but nearly all the boys pay ^10 IDS. a year. The course of instruction includes the ancient and modern languages. The projecting clock on the opposite side of the street belongs to Bow CHURCH (St. Mary-lc-Bow). It was erected by Christopher Wren after the great fire, on a Norman vault, in which the ecclesiastical court called the " Court of Arches," used to sit in former times, but which is now- filled with coffins. The tower is 235 feet in height, and Fergusson says of it that " no modern steeple can compare with this, either for beauty of outline or appro- priate application of classical detail." From the balcony beneath the clock Royalty used to witness in olden times the jousts and ridings in Cheapside. Since 1469, Bow Bells have been rung every night at nine o'clock. There are ten bells now, cast in 1762, the largest weighing 53 cwt, 22 Ibs. Of Cockneys it is said that they must have been born within the sound of Bow bells. The term " Cockney, " a nickname for Londoners, appears to have been derived from "Cocagna," or "land of Cockaign, " a favoured region, where food and all luxuries may be obtained without labour. On the same side of the street is Sir John Bennett's Shop, with an illuminated clock, a time ball and two .giants (imita- tions of Gog and Magog) who strike the hours. On the left, the tastefully carved front of MERCERS' HALL (the usual entrance in Ironmonger-lane). This is one of the most influential amongst the various City Companies. Its oldest charter was granted by Richard II., and amongst its members were Sir Thomas Gresham, the builder of the Royal Exchange, and Whitting- ton. The present Hall was built after the great fire. The short street which connects Cheap- side with the open space in front of the Mansion House is called the POULTRY. I The church at the corner (St. Mildred's) j is one of the many built by Wren after the great fire. In No. 31 Tom Hood was born. Next to No. 37 (on the left), the entrance to GROCERS' HALL. The Grocers were incorpo- rated by Edward III, in 1345? having been known until then as " Pepperers." The exist- ing Hall was built 1798-1802 (Thomas Lever- ton, architect). It contains nothing to interest the stranger. 161 29. THE HEABT OF THE CITY. Observe : The Mansion House is shown by permission of the Lord Mayor (or on applica- tion). Gratuity. The public rooms of the Bank of England are open to strangers, but the vaults, &c., are shown only by order of a Director. The Royal Exchange closes at five minutes to four. The two great days are Tuesday and Friday, 2 to 3 p.m. We have now readied the heart of the City, where the life flowing through its arteries pulsates most. In our rear is the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor, in front of us are the Royal Exchange and the Bank of England, whose very names conjure up ideas of commercial enterprise and substantial wealth. The MANSION HOUSE was erected by G. Dance, the city architect 1732-52. A design forwarded by Palladio, through Lord Burlington, was rejected, it is said, by the city fathers, who had never before heard the name of that famous architect, and doubted the orthodoxy of his religious opinions. There is a portico of six Corinthian columns, and in the pediment above it an allegorical piece of sculpture (by Sir R. Taylor), representing the City triumphing over her enemies, with Neptune looking on complacently. The entrance to the City Police Court is below the portico, that to the State apartments in the street on the right. The so-called Egyptian Hall has been designed by the Earl of Burlington, in accordance with a description to be found in Vitruvius. There are several valuable works of art in it (Caractacus and Egeria, by Foley, Comus, by Lough ; Genius and the Morning Star, by Bailey). It is the principal scene of the entertainments which the Lord Mayor is expected to offer to his fellow citizens, during his term of office. ST. STEPHEN'S, Walbrook, behind the Man- sion House, is one of the churches built by Wren. The interior is exceedingly elegant. 163 Eight stone pillars support an hemispherical roof of timber and lead. The altar-painting is by West, the east window by Willement. Sir John Vanburgh, the architect, lies buried in one of the vaults. The ROYAL EXCHANGE was founded in 1565 by Sir Thomas Gresham ; but the building erected in his time perished in the " great fire," and the same fate over- took the new Exchange erected by Sir C. Wren. The present building was built 1841-44, from a design by Mr. Tite, and occupies an area measuring 293 feet by 175. The portico on the west front is formed by eight Corinthian columns, and is 96 feet wide and 76 feet in height. The pediment contains an allegorical group in marble, by the younger Westmacott. Commerce, holding the charter of the Exchange, occupies the centre. To the right are figures of City office-bearers ; to the left English merchants ; and be- hind both foreign merchants. The gates are of cast-iron, bronzed, and bear the arms of the twelve great City Companies. (See p. 79). The two long faades are enriched with pilasters. That on the north has statues of Hugh Myddleton and R. Whittingham, whilst that on the south exhibits the arms of Sir Thomas Gresham and of the Mercers' Company. A clock-tower, 178 feet high, rises on the east fagade. It contains a set of thirteen bells, and, in a niche, a statue of Sir Thomas Gresham. The equestrian statue of Wellington, in front of the Exchange, is by Chantrey, that of Peabody at its back, is by Story, an American. The Quadrangle, inclusive of the covered walks which surround it, is 170 feet long and 104 wide. In its centre stands a statue of Queen Victoria (by Lough). In the four corners of the walks are the coats of arms of Edward the Confessor, Edward III., Queen Elizabeth and Charles II. ; on the walls, as well as on the keystones of the upper arches, the arms of all nations, in the order of prece- dence established by the Congress of Vienna. A staircase near the east end of the quad- rangle leads into LLOYD'S SUBSCRIPTION ROOMS, a centre of intelligence for merchants, 30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY. shipowners and underwriters. These rooms are open only to subscribers. The BANK OF ENGLAND was founded in 1694, by W. Patterson, a Scotchman, and is the first Joint Stock Bank estab- lished in England. The whole of its capital Gi4,553,ooo) has been lent to Government. It is both a Bank of Deposit and of Issue, and its bank-notes are legal tender throughout the kingdom. It is entrusted with the management of the National Debt. Its government is vested in a governor, a deputy-governor, and 24 directors, who are elected by the stockholders, and must hold stock to a considerable amount. The room in which they meet is called the Bank Parlour. The dividends paid to stockholders in 1875 amounted to 9^ per cent., and the price of bank stock was ^257. The Bank was removed from Grocers' Hall to its present site in 1734 ; but the buildings then erected by Mr. George Sampson, and subsequently added to by Sir Robert Taylor, were either removed altogether or considerably remodelled by Sir John Soane. They cover an irregular area of about four acres ; the principal front, in Threadneedle-street, is 365 feet long ; the longest, in Princes-street, 440 feet. The whole of the buildings and courts are surrounded by a screen, having a stone coping behind its balustrade, which was added in 1849, in consequence of the Chartist meeting. The corner at the further end of Princes-street, an imita- tion of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli, is much admired. The interior is conveniently arranged for business purposes. The entrance from Threadneedle-street leads into a paved court. The door in front opens into the Pay Hall, where bank-notes are issued and paid in (the Bullion-room lies beyond) ; the door on the right leads into the " Rotunda? where the dividends are paid, and this communicates with six other offices connected with the manage- ment of the Public Debt, amongst which is the Dividend Warrant Office, built 1835 by Cockerell. Two rows of columns run down its centre. Visitors provided with a Director's order are shown : the "vaults of the Bullion office, where the treasure of the bank is kept ; the sovereigns weighed on most ingeniously con- structed balances, which discriminate between coins of full and light weight, throwing the latter into a separate box. The Bank-note printing room, where Oldham's wonderful printing machine may be seen at work. The Old Note Office, where the notes paid in are preserved for ten years. A bank-note for ; i, 000,000, is shown here as a curiosity. The binding-room, where the 300 books required daily are bound, and their pages numbered, &c. The STOCK EXCHANGE is in Capel-court, behind the Bank, and was removed thither in 1 80 1. The existing exchange was built by Allanson, in 1853. The members are divided into Jobbers and Brokers, and their election is fenced round with stringent conditions to ensure their being solvent. S&~ Strangers who venture within these sacred precincts are bonnetted and turned out. 30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY. Distance : 4^ miles. Observe: Guildhall Library and Museum, and Missionary Museum, open daily. Ad- mission to the Halls of City Companies by a member's order, or on payment of a gratuity. We start from the Mansion House, and proceed through Princes and Gresham- streets to the Guildhall. On the road we notice GRESHAM COLLEGE, at the corner of Basinghall-street, founded in 1579 by Sir Thomas Gresham, for the delivery of 165 lectures on divinity, the arts, and sciences. The present building was erected in 1843. The lectures are held in accordance with the deed of endowment, but there are very few persons to attend them. At the left hand corner of the short street leading to the open space in front of the Guildhall, stands St. Lawrence Jewry, one of Wren's churches, and a drinking fountain. Observe the hundreds of tame pigeons. 166 30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY. The GUILDHALL (Town Hall) of the City of London was first built about 1411, but with the exception of the crypt, which still remains, and a portion of the walls, the whole of it was destroyed by the great fire. The present front is the work of Wren and Dance ; the fine open timber roof was added to the hall in 1865. The Great Hall is 153 feet long, 50 feet broad, and 55 feet high. It contains a few monuments of no particular merit, viz., Lord Chatham (by J. Bacon, inscrip* tion by Burke) ; William Pitt (by Bubb, inscription by Canning) ; Nelson (by Smith, inscription by Sheridan) ; Wei* lington. In order to gain room for the latter, the statue of Lord Mayor Beckford had to be removed . It was inscribed with a remonstrance which he intended to address to George III., when presenting a petition respecting the elec- tion of one of the members of Parliament. i. Armourers' Hall. 2. Sion College. 3. Barbers' Hall. 4. Goldsmith's Hall. 5. Telegraph Office. 6. Christ Hospital. 7. St. Sepulchre. 8. St. Andrews. 9. St. Bartholomew. 10. Missionary Museum, u. Carpenters' Hall. 12. Drapers' Hall. 13. Merchant Taylors' Hall. The statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabeth, and Charles I., at the eastern end of the Hall, were removed hither from an old chapel, and the figures of the two City giants, Gog and Magog, at the other end, were carved in 1708, by Saunders. The coats of arms are those of the twelve great City Companies. The stained win- dow at the eastern end was presented by Lancashire operatives, in recognition of the support they received from the citizens of London during the cotton famine. The Hall is used for public meetings, and on the Qth of November, of each year, the Lord Mayor elect gives in it a Dinner, attended by the Ministers and the great Law Officers of the Crown (see p. 78). I6 7 A flight of steps leads from the great Hall into the vestibule, ornamented with busts of Canning, Palmerston, and Lord Derby. The Common Council Chamber, which adjoins (but is not generally open to the public) contains a few statues and portraits. We return now to the entrance, and turning to the left, proceed through a vaulted passage to the CITY LIBRARY, which is housed now in a fine gothic room (Horace Jones, architect). It contains about 50,000 volumes, and is thrown open to the public on the most libera terms. We pass through the library and descend the stairs to the ill-lighted basement of the building which contains the City Museum (mostly antiquities found in London). l