University of California Berkeley

X A

S .

HUNTLEY & PALMERS

HAVT> JL

GOLD MEDAL AWARDED

** BY THIE

NATIONAL ACADEMT

OF AGRICULTURE MANUFACTURES
AND COMMERCED

PARIS.

WERE EXHIBITORS AT THE
FOLLOWINGEXHIBITILWS

LONDON, 1851 &l 862
1B68

PARIS. 1 855 & 1867.
AMSTERDAM. 1869.

HAVRE,

LYONS, }Q12> LIMA. JB72.

VIENNA,I873.MEDAL"FOR PROGRESS
SANTIAGO, 1875, SPECIAL PRIZE.

AT ALL OP WHICH

"X They received the highest Award given j
y\ Biscuits to any English House.

These Biscuits are made of the finest materials, and from their great variety of Shape and Flavour,
acknowledged Superiority of Make, and fine keeping qualities, they have obtained a very extensive and
increasing sale in England, the Continent, and the various Markets throughout the World.

They are packed in Tins containing i Ib. and upwards, also in Casks and Boxes, to meet the con-
venience of the Trade and Shippers.

Ces Biscuits sont composes des meilleures matieres premieres. Us se distinguent par leur grande
facilite de conservation, leur variete de forme et de gout, et la superiorite reconnue de leur fabrication, qui
leur ont obtenu une vente tres etendue et toujours croissante en Angleterre, sur le Continent d'Europe, et
sur tous les marches du monde en general.

Us sont emballes dans des Boites de fer blanc de poids divers a partir d'une livre, et aussi en Barils et
Caisses, a la convenance des acheteurs.

Sirsc 53i0ctitts foertirn faon fcm feinstcn fHaterialtm angeferttgt unti fjafjen &urcfj life fHattttt'cffalttcjMt
iftrcr JFormm, ihrcn EKiohljjescfrmacfe, tote anerfeannte U0r5uglichfeeit ifjrer Zu&mitnngm unlj Ute Ittgens
schaft untiertnintiErter |l?altbarkcit rmcn scfjr ausgetiEhntm tmti stets jumfjmentim bsaj in fSnglanU, auf
trcm J7stlanti unti auf alien fHatktcn tier fflmelt, trlangt.

Sic ijjcvticn in BlecfjUosen faon I ^funti unti auf&jarts berpacfet, trcsglctcfjEn in jTasscru unti

Histm cntsprecfjenU ticn SHuttscfjcn ties gantlets untf tier Uerstfttffer.

Estas Galletas son hechas de los mas finos materiSles ; y por la gran variedadide sus Fonnas y

Gustos, la bien conocida superioridad de su Fabricacion y el tiempo que se conservan,

han merecido un despacho muy considerable no solamente en In gla terra, y el

Continente de Europa, sino tambien en todas la poblaciones del Mundo
f~\ que scan de alguna importancia.

Van embaladas en Cajas de Hoja deijLata de una libra inglesa

de peso 6 mas, 6 en Barriles 6 Cajones seguii

sea mas conveniente al Compra*dor.

\> LONDON & READING

? \-m/ l V ( *J/ 9 A ^^

t-tb^ 1877.

ROUTE.

nger$ from the United States intending to visit Europe are informed that

THROUGH TICKETS

For the portion of the journey, across England by the London and North Western Railway
(the direct route from Liverpool to London) are obtainable AT ANY OF THE
OFFICES OF THE TRANS- ATLANTIC STEAMSHIP COMPANIES IN
NEW YORK AND BOSTON.

LIVERPOOL TERMINUS.

At Liverpool (one of the termini of the line) arrangements of a most complete character
have been made for dealing with^passengers to and from America, as well as their baggage.
On arrival at Liverpool, carts will be found in readiness to convey passengers' baggage to the
Lime Street Station, the scale of charges in operation being regulated by a tariff laid down
by the municipal authorities. The Company have representatives appointed to meet the steam
vessels on arrival, at Liverpool, and to act on the instructions of the passengers with reference
to the con^eyance-$f their lufcgage.

A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL, "THE NORTH WESTERN,"

Containing iflUfrards of 2OO bedroofts, with spacious tffcffijje room available for ladies and
gentlemen, and replete with every accommodation, adjoins this terminus.

EXPRESS TRAINS,

at frequent intervals, leave for London (which is reached in five hours) Manchester, Birming-
ham, and all parts of the kingdom.

At Liverpool (Lime Street terminus) Through Tickets can be obtained for all parts of
the L T nited Kingdom, either for tours or single journeys. Passengers wishing to make
arrangements for Continental journeys can obtain every information at Messrs. Gaze & Son's
Branch Office at the Lime Street Station, and No. 4, Parker Street ; or at the Head Office in
London (142, Strand).

Passengers desiring to obtain information in Liverpool respecting the London and North
Western Railway, should apply to Mr. James Shaw, the District Superintendent at Lime
Street Station.

IRISH MAIL TO LONDON.

The Atlantic and other lines of steamers put in at Queenstown, and by alighting at this place,
American passengers can avail themselves of the Irish Mail Trains by the^rreat Southern and
Western Railway to Dublin, and thence proceed to Kingstown, the port from which trie-
magnificent steam vessels of the City of Dublin Company, leave for Holyhead, where on land-
ing the passengers can at once seat themselves in the splendidly-equipped carriages of the
London and North Western Company's celebrated Irish Mail Train for London.

The Mail Train completes the journey from Holyhead to London (264 miles) in seven and
a-half hours, there being only three stoppages on the way. The engines are provided with
an apparatus by which they are enabled, as they travel, to take up water from horizontal
troughs which are laid between the rails. Sleeping saloons are attached to the Night Mails
both from and to London.

KENILWORTH, WARWICK, STRATFORD-ON-AVON.

The Irisn Mail Trains from Holyhead, and the Express Train from Liverpool, afford a
rapid service to Birmingham. Kenilworth and Warwick are easily reached by the trains
from New Street Station, Birmingham.

A new line of railway has been opened through from Stratford -on- Avon to London, -via
Blisworth, by which quick trains are run daily.

LONDON TERMINUS.

The London terminus of the London and North Western Railway is at Euston Square
and there are tv^t> hotels for the accommodation of families and gentlemen immediately
adjoining the station the " Victoria," on the western side, and the "Euston," on the eastern
side of the entrance.

The London and North Western Railway Company have Central Offices* in Manchester
and Birmingham, with complete arrangements for through bookings. The Company's Super-
intendents will afford all information lo visitors in those districts.

information respecting trains, fares, &c., apply to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of
the Line, Euston Station.

The London and North Western Railway Company have also through booking arrange-
ments for parcels and goods traffic from Liverpool and Holyhead , o all the principal towns in
the kingdom and on the Continent. Full particulars as to mercha ndise can be obtained of Mr.
Thomas Kay, Chief Goods Manager, Euston Station.

GEORGE FINDLAY,

Euston Station, London. Chief Traffic Manager

Feb^ 1877.

*
PASSENGER SERVICE

BETWEEN

ENGLAND AND THE CONTINENT.

The GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY COMPANY have recently introduced great improve-
ments into their Continental Service, via Harwich, and this route now presents the
following advantages

The Steamers are by far the finest, largest, and best fitted of any engaged in the
service between England and the Continent, having all been specially built for this
service.

The service is between Harwich and Rotterdam and Harwich and Antwerp, and
at each of these ports the draught of water is such as to enable the large Steamers
employed in this service to enter or leave the Harbours at any state of the tide, so that
the Steamers land and embark their Passengers from the Quay, and in no case are
small Boats used.

The Through Booking and Tourist arrangements for Passengers and Luggage are
the most complete of any Company carrying to the Continent. Through Tickets and
Tourist Tickets are issued to all chief towns and places of interest in Holland, Belgium,
Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Russia, &c.

Owing to the directness of the route the Through Fares will be found lower than
those by any other first class route.

In London the Passengers depart from and arrive at LIVERPOOL STREET STATION,
which is one of the largest and most convenient in the World, having direct rail com-
munication with all parts of London and England generally.

A Continental Express Train leaves Liverpool Street Station each evening for
Harwich, in direct communication with the Steamers for Antwerp and Rotterdam, and
in the same way a Train leaves Harwich for London on the arrival of the Continental
Steamers.

Tickets can be obtained in London at

WEST END OFFICE, 28, Regent Circus, Piccadilly.
Messrs. T. COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street.
Messrs. GAZE & SON, 142, Strand, W.C.
LIVERPOOL STREET STATION;

or by sending Post Office Order, or Cheque on the Cheque Bank to the Continental
Department, Liverpool Street Station, Tickets will be sent free by post to any address.

For Time Tables and all particulars apply to the Continental Department, Great
Eastern Railway, London.

Thf Couipajiy isHiK- lMri-:i orToiu-ibt Ticlft s lo nil [minis
indicated in S'fiiif- L' j t/<T.s thus MAVCNCC NASSAU

Tin- Thief KHilways ;in- inrlu -jii.-<| l.vhliirk lines llui.s__&:

Jioiinrlnncs n- iiiflicit.-.l i>v .lotted lines thus

n Jd.Liili? Lou.l.m

ALSO

EST MNDMGEN^S

FOR THE

WHITE STAR LINE

United States Mail Steamers.

BERTHS CAN BE SECURED AND EVERY INFORMATION OBTAINED AT THE
ABOVE ADDRESS WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE,

| Feb., 1877.

Patented 1862, 1868, 1871, and 1875, in Great Britain, France,
Prussia, Austria, Belgium, Italy, a^id America.

PHILADELPHIA CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION, 1876, THE GRAND MEDAL OF HONOUR, AND

DIPLOMA OF MERIT

For the "Good quality of tone, pliability of touch, improvements, simplicity of action, and excellence of

workmanship."

LONDON . . . 1862, PRIZE MEDAL.

PARIS . . . 1867,
NETHERLANDS, 1869, LE DIPLOME DE LA

PARIS . . .1870, GOLD MEDAL.
PARIS, 1874, HIGHEST AWARD THE

GRAND DIPLOMA OF HONOUR.

MENTION EXTRAORDINAIRE.

WERE AWARDED TO

JOHN BRINSMEAD & SONS,

Pianoforte Manufacturers,

18, WIGMORE STREET, LONDON, W.,

FOR THEIR
"PERFECT CHECK REPEATER" ACTION

PIANOFORTES.

SIR JULIUS BENEDICT,
* A most valuable and ingenious invention which cannot fail to meet with success."

SIDNEY SMITH,
"Produces a touch which is absolute perfection"

BRINLEY RICHARDS,

"Likely to be extensively adopted."

W. KUHE,

" I consider the Instruments manufactured by you to be most excellent in tone, touch, and quality of material."

The ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS,

" The improvements made in English pianos have caused this trade rapidly to increase, until one pianoforte
manufactory after another has been built to supply the growing demand. One of the largest of these, lately
erected by Messrs. John Brinsmead & Sons, of "Wigmore -street, covers nearly an acre of ground in the Graf ton-
road, Kentish-town, and is intended to accommodate 300 workmen. These works alone can supply 3000

pianos annually."

The STANDARD,
"Has received the greatest approbation everywhere."

The MORNING POST,
" The touch is Beautifully light and the repetition instantaneous."

The ECHO,
" Rendered perfect in every respect. 1 '

The ENGINEER,
41 Its simplicity ensures its keeping in order.

The MUSICAL TIMES,
" Of the utmost importance to pianists."
Ac., &c., &c.

pianofortes Manufactured expressly for Extreme Climates.

Illustrated Price Littt and detcriptiont of this invention, with Opinions of the London Press and Musical Profetlion,

formarded by post on application.

MANUFACTORY-

THE "BKINSHEAD WOKKS/; GHAFTON KQAD,

TOWJV, IV. W.

Feb., 1877.

r-:!>
J

l/t*

THE

PACIFIC

STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.

OFFICIAL GUIDE.

TO WHICH IS APPENDED A

TOURIST GUIDE,

SPECIALLY PREPARED WITH MAPS <Sc PLANS

FOR THE USE OF

Passengers Visiting Great Britain and the Continent of
Europe, or the United States and Canada.

OFFICES:

PACIFIC BUILDINGS, 31, JAMES STREET,

LIVERPOOL.

[ALL KKarr.s KESE

THOMSON BROTHERS,
SALISBURY SQUARE, LONDON, E.G.

THE

STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.

AMONG the numerous and important ocean-going steam
lleets of the world few, if any, are more important than that
of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company ; and this is true
whether it be viewed as the means of conducting a large and
valuable commercial trade, or regarded as the instrument ot
a highly interesting marine enterprise, which, having been
begun on a comparatively moderate scale, has developed
into one of the largest and best conducted establishments
in this or any other country. This fleet differs in some
particulars from most of the others connected with Liver-
pool, the most conspicuous of which may be set down as the
great length of the voyages undertaken by the steamers of
which it is composed, and the consequently protracted dura-
tion of the different trips. Notwithstanding this, however,
the regularity and celerity with which these voyages are
'performed bear conclusive testimony to the excellent
character of the vessels, and also to the skill and
judgment of those by whom the operations are carried
on. When first started the most striking difference which
the Pacific 9 Steam Navigation Company's fleet presented
to the others belonging to Liverpool consisted in the
fact that the vessels of the company were altogether
occupied in carrying on the traffic, which was then only
very imperfectly developed, along the shores of a distant
and comparatively little-known ocean. The ports on the
margin of that ocean idle steamers visited with a degree of
regularity which involved much credit on, the energy and
judgment of the company, and in an especial degree on those
by whom its affairs were managed and directed. Another

2 The Pacific Stcai;? X aright ion Comp.tny.

and not less striking peculiarity connected with this fleet was
to be found in the circumstance that the vessels, having been
built in Great Britain, were loaded in and despatched from
Liverpool to their ports of destination on the shores of the
Pacific Ocean, whence they were never expected to return,
but were intended to remain as coasting- traders between the
different and distant ports situated on the coasts of South
America. Consequent on this peculiarity of destination the
fleet of this enterprising company, although large, was com-
paratively but little known in England, and was not generally
included among the immense commercial maritime resources
of the country. Gradually, however, the policy which first
guided the counsels of the company was widened and ex-
tended, and in pursuance of this a line of first-class steamers
of very large dimensions was constructed by the company
for the purpose of conducting a large and growing trade
between the South American continent, on both its east and
west sides, and Liverpool. From this period the Pacific Steam
Navigation Company rose speedily to be one of the most
extensive agencies by which the commercial enterprise of
Liverpool is carried out.

Fully and clearly to understand the position, and to
comprehend the growth and importance of the Pacific Steam
Navigation Company, which from a very modest beginning
has grown to the gigantic proportions it has latterly assumed,
it is necessary to go back to what in these clays of rapid
development seems a remote period. The establishment of
a first-class line of steamships for carrying on the large and
still growing trade which was known to exist on the west
coast of South America, will be readily admitted to have been
a grand idea an idea demanding extensive and varied know-
ledge, a large amount of practical skill, rare administrative
talent, and the command of very extensive pecuniary resources
such a combination indeed of organizing skill and commercial
sagacity as it is exceedingly difficult to bring together, and
in addition to all these so thorough an appreciation of com-
prehensive integrity as is not frequently combined in carrying
out a commercial undertaking. To "have collected and con-
centrated all these qualities in a great public company having
its head-quarters in Liverpool, where the mainsprings of its

The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. 3

action were concentrated, is a feat of which the community
are justly proud, if pride or boasting could be in any
degree admitted in matters for the regulation of commercial
undertakings. It is unnecessary to state that difficulties had
to be encountered and overcome in starting such a company,
as that is the experience of nearly every new enterprise, and
the early history of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company
presents no exception to the general rule. The spirit, however,
which animated the promoters of the undertaking, and the talent
which guided that spirit, were fortunately sufficient to meet and
overcome those difficulties. The company was organized and
brought into operation in the year 1840, a year long to be
remembered in the commercial annals of Liverpool, and indeed
in those of the United Kingdom, for that year was signalized by
the introduction of several undertakings which by their matura-
tion have exercised a large and beneficial influence on the com-
mercial relations of the world. Conspicuous among these
undertakings must be included the establishment of a regular
line of mail steamers between Liverpool and Boston, which has
been and still is successfully carried on by the British and
North American Royal Mail Steamship Company ; the or-
ganization of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company; and the
introduction of the screw-propeller as a means of effecting
ocean steam navigation.

The operations of the Pacific Steam Navigation Com-
pany were commenced in a very unostentatious manner by
running two wood built steamers between Valparaiso
and Panama; these vessels were of small size, being
only of about 600 tons register, with a correspondingly
limited amount of steam power. They were named respect-
ively the Chili and the Pent, and they continued to run
between the ports named, but were supplemented and sub-
sequently superseded by steamers of larger tonnage and
increased steam power. In justification of the importance
attached to the establishment of the Pacific Steam Navi-
gation Company in its relation to the trade between Liverpool
and South America, it may be allowable to quote from Baines'
" History of Liverpool," published in 1852, wherein, speaking of
this company and the operations of its fleet, he says, " New
life has been given to the Western Coast of America by the

4 The Pacific Si cam Navigation Company.

lines of steamers which now keep up a regular communi-
cation among the principal ports from Valparaiso to San
Francisco, and join with those from Panama and Chagres
to Great Britain and North America. Within the last few
months a number of magnificent steamers, built in the Clyde
and intended to keep up the communication between Val-
paraiso and Panama, and named after the cities of St. Jago,
Lima, Quito, Bogota, and the river Magdalena, have
visited the river Mersey, whence they have sailed to the
Pacific to take the place of the smaller steamers which
have hitherto plied on the coast of South America." The
"new life" thus referred to by the historian as imparted to the
portion of South America to which he alludes, although
true in its literal sense, was not so fully realized in fact, as
a commercial undertaking, as the company had good reason
for believing would be the case, and for some time the trade
was neither so extensive nor so profitable as might have;
been expected, when the vast resources which it was
sought to bring into operation are taken into account. Un-
deterred by the comparative disappointment, the company
persevered in endeavouring to cultivate and develope the trade
which it was felt must sooner or later grow up in so extensive
and fertile a range of country, with its diversified climate
and immense variety of natural products. Pursuing this be-
lief, and acting on the policy which it suggested, new lines
of communication were opened and successfully prosecuted,
till, in the year 1865, the company possessed a fleet of about
twenty steamers, with an aggregate measurement of 20,000
tons impelled by steam engines of about 5000 horse power,
nominal. In the year just named the company added to
their already large and powerful fleet three magnificent
steamers of 3000 tons measurement and 500 horse power
each, the first of these being the Pacific. These three
vessels were built by Messrs. Randolph, Elder & Co., of
Glasgow, and up to this period nearly all of the company's
steamers were paddle-wheelers, the three last referred to
being furnished with feathering-floats, an exceedingly ingenious
contrivance of the late Mr. John Elder, by which the
inconvenience of back-water lift was almost entirely avoided,
and the propelling power of the paddles proportionately

The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. 5

augmented, thus effecting an equal amount of power with a
smaller expenditure of fuel. The value and importance of
such a contrivance must inevitably have been great under
any circumstances, but more so when it is borne in mind
that by far the greatest portion of the fuel used by the
steamers belonging to the Pacific Steam Navigation Com-
pany consists of coal sent from this country, and shipped
at Cardiff. It is true that coal of fair quality is to be got
at Lota on the coast of Chili, but it requires to be mixed
with Welsh coal to be perfectly available for steamship
purposes.

Financially considered the importance of saving fuel by
steamers performing long voyages is a matter of the most
serious interest This subject had long received the most
careful attention of Mr. John Elder, already referred to, a
gentleman of great engineering skill and highly inventive
genius, whose investigations eventually led to an important
modification of the form and principle of the marine steam-
engine. This was effected by the adoption of what is now
denominated the compound or high and low pressure engine,
by which, and the adoption of super-heating apparatus, a great
saving in the consumption of fuel is effected without impairing
in any degree the power of the engine. This form of engine,
which is now almost universally adopted, was at an early period
after its construction introduced into the fleet of the Pacific
Steam Navigation Company, whose management adopted it to
the great advantage of the shareholders, practically reducing
the expense of working the noble fleet belonging to them by
a very sensible diminution in the quantity of coal required.
After the introduction of the compound engine, and indeed
even before that period, the screw-propeller had been adopted as
a substitute for the paddle-wheels in many instances, and with
complete success. Consequent on this, contracts were entered
into by the company with Messrs. John Elder & Co. and other
firms for new steamers, all of which were to be screw-propellers.
This contract was not completed till the beginning of 1874.
By the addition of the vessels built under this contract
to the steamers they already possessed the company has now
a fleet of fifty steamships, with an aggregate measurement
of 111,525 tons, and an aggregate of 19,915 horse power,

The Pacific Steam Navigation Company.

nominal, but capable of being- worked up to five times that
amount of indicated power, a fleet the magnitude and power of
which may challenge favourable comparison with that of any
other company in the world.

Subjoined is a list of the vessels, with their gross tonnage and
horse power nominal :

PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY'S FLEET.

Name of Ship.

Tonnage.

Horse
power.

Name of Ship.

Tonnage.

Horse
power.

Iberia ...

4,671

750

Santa Rosa ...

1,816

400

Liguria

4,666

750

Colombia

z,8x6

400

Potosi

4,218

600

Lima ...

1,804

400

Britannia

4,189

600

Ilo

i,793

300

John Elder

4.I5 1

600

Chile

1,671

400

Aconcagua

4,106

600

Panama

1,641

Cotopaxi

4,027

600

Pacific...

1,630

450

Illimani ' ...

4,022

600

Limena

1,622

Sorata

4.013

600

Oroya ...

i,596

300

Garonne

3,870

550

Islay ...

1,588

300

Chimborazo ...

3,847

550

Santiago

I45 1

300

Cuzco ...

3,845

550

Truxillo

i,449

300

Galicia

3,829

600

Payta

i,344

400

Lusitania

3,825

Peru

i>3<>7

360

Valparaiso

3,575

Coo

Arequipa

1,065

250

Araucania

2,877

500

Callao

1,062

320

Patagonia

2,866

500

Quito

743

250

Cordillera

2,860

500

Talca ...

707

260

Magellan

2,856

500

Guayaquil

660

250

Bolivia

,925

400

Huacho

329

Ayacucho

.916

400

Iquique

323

Valdivia

,860

300

Supe ...

298

Eten

,852

300

Taboguilla

153

Atacama

,821

300

Chucuito

Coquimbo

,820

300

Baja

Aggregate tonnage
Aggregate horse power

Fifty Steamers

The very modest indeed it might almost be character-
ized as timid beginning 1 of the development of the vast
trade on the South American coasts with ^reat Britain has
been already alluded to, yet it remains to be stated that the

The Pacific Steam Navigation Company, 7

policy and aspirations of the company, although not eminently
successful at first, were nevertheless so far encouraging as to
justify perseverance in 'carrying them out. Pursuing their
original intentions, the company continued up to the year
1866 to load their new steamers in Liverpool, and despatch
them for permanently trading on the South American
coast. About the end of the year following that last named
the company after due deliberation, decided to extend their
operations by organizing a line of first-class steamers
to run between Liverpool and Valparaiso, both out and
home, and carrying the mails both ways. For carrying out
this determination, they despatched their then new and
splendid steamship Pacific, of 1630 tons and 450 horse
power, nominal, from Liverpool for Valparaiso in May, 1868,
as the pioneer of the new mail line to run every two
months from each port, calling at Bordeaux, Lisbon,
Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and Sandy Point, in the Straits
of Magellan. The advantages of this undertaking having
been proved by experience, and yielding to the require-
ments of a still growing trade, the company were induced
to increase their sailings at first to a monthly despatch,
and subsequently to a fortnightly, and eventually to a
weekly despatch both ways. In adopting this bold line of
policy the management were justified by the exigencies of a
large existing trade, and by the still growing prospects of com-
merce presented on the American continent. For carrying
out and maintaining this project it became necessary to
greatly augment the fleet, which now consists of the splendid
ships, the names and capacities of which have been stated
above.

Unfortunately, in the instance last referred to, the expec-
tations of the management were not fully realized. Trade
of every kind in South America became dull. An extra-
ordinary inflation in the price of coal greatly increased the
expense of working the line ; other items of expenditure were
also greatly increased, and instead of realizing a reasonable
amount of profit, an investigation showed that a loss had been
sustained on the working of the traffic. This, as might have
been imagined, led to the abandonment of the weekly sailings ;
instead of which they were reduced to a fortnightly despatch,

8 The Pacific Steam Navigation Company.

at which the sailings now continue. As there is every reason,
however, to expect a revival of the South American as well
as other trades, and also a considerable reduction in the price
of coal indeed this has to some extent been already effected
and other costly articles of consumption, there are reasonable
grounds for the expectation of a return to that prosperity which
had hitherto attended the undertakings of the company. Such
an expectation is fairly warranted by the great value of the
imports brought from South America by the vessels belonging
to the company, and by the extent and value of the cargoes
they carry out. In addition to these advantages, it is right to
state that the Pacific Steam Navigation Company have made,
and still work, through traffic arrangements with all the
companies trading to the Isthmus of Panama, in which are
included those to the North Pacific, as well as those to New
York, Liverpool, Southampton, St. Nazaire, and Hamburg. The
company is also in receipt of subsidies, comparatively small in
amount, from all the South American republics, in consideration
of conveying their mails along the coast. Although only a
small source of revenue, this is in itself nevertheless of some
value, as it frees the ships of the company from the payment
of port dues at the various ports of call.

The preceding enumeration of steamships, together with
their tonnage and horse power, sufficiently indicates that the
fleet of the company is both extensive and well-appointed;
but, in further illustration of this important fact, it may be
permitted to refer to one or other of their more recently-built
steamers, and for this purpose one will suit nearly as well as
another. For the purpose of this illustration it may be well to
select the Iberia, one of the largest vessels of the fleet. She
is of 4671 tons measurement, and is in every respect a steamer
of the highest class. She is furnished with compound high
and low pressure engines of 750 horse power, nominal, and
on her trial trip she showed an average speed of 15 knots an
hour. Her passenger accommodation is of the best description,
and all her fittings and furnishings are of a class suitable to
her general characteristics. The build and contour of this fine
ship has been and is greatly admired by nautical critics, her
lines both fore and aft being charmingly fine, and such as to
indicate celerity of motion combined with ready steering

The Pacific Steam Navigation Company. 9

power, and her whole appearance is eminently suggestive of
rapid and steady sailing qualities, in which, as in other respects,
she sustains the character for style and appearance which in
so pre-eminent a degree distinguish the steamers owned by
the company under whose flag she sails. While on this subject,
it is well to mention that the Chili, one of the company's
steamers, which is now thirteen years old, and not one of their
most powerful class, or possessed of the latest improvements in
her machinery, made the run from Liverpool to Valparaiso (in-
cluding stoppages) in 3 1 days 1 5 hours, a rate of speed which
has been successfully repeated and maintained by many of the
company's steamships, as will be readily substantiated by the
following statement. In 1869 the Magellan was delayed in
Liverpool 7 days ; after starting, however, she made such a
rapid passage that she arrived in Valparaiso within her itin-
erary time, thus gaining 7 days in 38. In 1871 the Lusitania
ran from Liverpool to Valparaiso in 33 days.

An important point in the policy of the Pacific Steam
Navigation Company has been, and still is, to have only
Britons as commanders, officers, and engineers, in charge of
their vessels ; and the complement of these important func-
tionaries for even their South American coasting trade, as well
as for their Liverpool and Valparaiso trade, are all Britons,
their number and efficiency on the distant routes being main-
tained by successive relays from this country to supply the
places of those who return home, or of whose services the
company is deprived by other causes. The company, however,
to a moderate extent, avail themselves of the services of
natives of the American continent to act as stokers, menial
servants, and deck hands, for discharging the duties of which
offices they are subjected to suitable training and discipline.
For maintaining the efficiency of their extensive coasting-
trade the company have established at Callao large engineering
and other workshops, fitted with all the requisite apparatus,
implements, and tools ; and there they also maintain a large
staff of well-trained workmen, the whole being under the
immediate direction and control of a superintendent, who
receives instructions from the general- manager of the com-
pany's affairs in the Pacific, c.ncl who resides at Callao. In these
workshops, and by those skilled workmen, the company do

io The Pacific Steam Navigation Company.

not only the work which is requisite for their own vessels,
but also, from time to time, as occasion requires, they execute
similar work for British, French, and Spanish ships of war.
In connection with their establishments at Callao, Panama,
and Valparaiso, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company
contributes liberally to the support of schools, and also for
the maintenance of clergymen belonging to the established
Church of England. The company has also promoted and
largely contributed to the formation of a subsidiary company
for the construction of an iron floating-dock at Callao. In
point of fact, the stock ot this latter company is almost
altogether held by the shareholders of the former, and, to
afford encouragement to this highly desirable undertaking, the
Peruvian Government has accorded all reasonable facilities,
and granted exclusive privileges of great value for the period
of twenty years from the date of its establishment. Besides
the foreign working establishments referred to, the Pacific
Steam Navigation Company have also constructed large and
most commodious engineering and fitting workshops at the
Morpeth Dock, at Birkenhead, where they have obtained a
permanent loading berth, with a considerable extent of quay and
shed accommodation in which to carry on their large and
important trade.

PACIFIC

STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.

The Company's Fleet consists of the following Magnificent Steamers :

TONNAGE.

Aconagua 4106

Araucania 3088

Arequipa 1329

Atacaraia 1975

Ayacucho 2200

Britannia 4128

Bolivia 1925

Callao 1062

Chile 1750

Chimborazo ...3846

Colombia 2200

Coquimbo 1975

Cordillera .
Cotopaxi.-..

TONNAGE.

....2860
....4027
3845

TONNAGE.

Islay 1587
John Elder 4151
Lig-uria 4666
Lima iftna

Eten

1975

OQOQ

2088

3370

I/usitania ..
Magellan

..3825
..2856

Guayaquil .

750

449

1596

. .4670

Pacific ..

2008

Illimani ....

....4023
1793
450

Panama
Patag-onia ....
Payta

..2008
..2866
..1800

Iquiq.ue

j Peru 1400

Potosi 4218

Quito 800

Santa Rosa ...2000

Santiag-o 1500

Sorata 4013

Supe 432

Tabog-uilla 240

Talca, 700

Truxillo 1500

Valdivia 1975

Valparaiso 3574

LIVERPOOL AND WEST COAST LINE.

LIVERPOOL -
BORDEAUX - -
SANTANDER- - -
CORUNNA -
CARRIL & VIGO-
LISBON J

fPERNAMBUCO
BAHIA.

RIO DE JANEIRO.
MONTE VIDEO (F ; V S OS
VALPARAISO,
CALLAO.

APPOINTED BY HER MAJESTY'S POSTMASTER GENERAL TO LEAVE

LIVERPOOL EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY,

BORDEAUX EVERY ALTERNATIVE SATURDAY,

LISBON EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY,

Every Vessel calling at SANTANDER. COTUTNNA, CARRIL or VIGO. and every alternative Vessel
sailing from LISBON to RIO DE JANEIRO DIRECT.

RETURNING FROM

CALLAO EVERY ALTERNATIVE TUESDAY,

VALPARAISO EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY,

MONTE VIDEO EVERY ALTERNATIVE WEDNESDAY,

RIO DE JANEIRO EVERY ALTERNATIVE MONDAY,

IAH1A, every fourth Teursday ; PERNAMBUCO, every fourth Saturday.

Passengers carried to and from all Ports en route, and
Cargo conveyed under through Bills of Lading to and from
all Forts on the West Coast.

LOADING BERTH-MORPETH DOCK, BIRKENHEAD.

SAILINGS FROM BOTH ENDS EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY.

A competent number of Screw and Paddle Steamers are employed on this Line, offering every
facili:y for Passengers and Cargo. These Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports :

Tambo de Mora, Pisco, Lomas, Chala, Q,uilca, Islay, Mollendo, Ilo, Arica,
Pisagna, Mejillones (Peru), Iquique, Pabellon de Pica, Tocopilla, Cobija, Mejillones
(Bolivia), Antofag-asta, Ghanaral, Caldera, Carrizal Bajo, Huasco, and Coquimbo.

CALLAO & PANAMA LINES.

SAILINGS-

FROM CALLAO & PANAMA FOUR TIMES A MONTH.

In connection with the Semi- Weekly Line between

Callao ani Valparaiso and Intermediates, and the Peruvian Coast Lines,

Passengers proceeding from Panama to Ports South of Callao are maintained on board
during the stay of the Steamer at Callao.

'i hrough Bills of Lading for Cargo and through Passenger Tickets are issued to and from
the West Coast and the United States, in connection with the Pacific Mail Steamship Com-
pany and the Panama Railroad Company.

' Through Bills of Lading and Passenger Tickets are also issued in connection with the
following Companies to and from Europe and the West Coast, via the Isthmus o( Panama
viz., Royal Mail Steam Packet Company ; Hamburg American Steamship Company ; West
India and Pacific Steamship Company (Limited) ; Compagnie Generaie Transatlantique ; and
to and from Central American Ports in connection with the Pacific Mail Steamship Company.

PERDVIANCOAST LINES.

I. NORTH SAILINGS.

For PIMEJTTEL, EVEEY TUESDAY; For ETEN, EVERY THURSDAY;
Per SANTA, EV2EY SATUEDAY,

CALLS. These. Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports:

Huacho, Supe, Huarmey, Casma, Samanco, Chimbote, Santa,
Huanchaco, Malabrigo, and Pacasmayo,

And every alternate Thursday a Steamer proceeds to the LOBOS ISLAND.
II.-SOTJTH SAILINGS.

EVERY MONDAY AND THURSDAY.

SEMI-WEEKLY Steamers run between CALLAO and Pisco, calling at CERO AZUL

and TAMBO DE MORA.

SOUTHERN MAIL STEAMER BETWEEN
VALPARAISO AND PORT MONTT

SAILINGS-

PEOM VALPAEAISO on the 6th, 13th, 21st, and 29th of EVEEY MONTH

CALLS. These Steamers call at the following Intermediate Ports :

SAN ANTONIO, TOME,TALCAHUANO,CORONEL,LOTA,LEBU, CORRAL, ANCUD,(CALBUCO,

All kinds of Facilities afforded for the Conveyance of Passengers and Cargo.

PRINCIPAL AGENCIES-

Antwerp, Messrs. AUG. SCHMITZ & Co. ; Bahia, Messrs. WILSON & Co. ; Bordeaux,
Mr. HENRY DAVIS; Callao, Mr. NOEL WEST; Carril, Messrs. BARCENA Y Ho.;
Corunna, Messrs. JOSE PASTOR Co.; Glasgow, Messrs. MALCOLMS & Co. ; Guayaquil, Mr.
GEORGE CHAMBERS ; Hamburg, Mr. K. XIMU-HK, JUN. ; Havre, Messrs. BURNS & MAC!VER;
Lisbon, Messrs. K. PINTO, BASTO & Co.; London, Messrs. N. GRIFFITHS, TATK & SKLBY ;
Madrid, Mr. L. RAMIREZ ; Monte Video, Messrs. YARROW, JIKIT Co.; New York, Mr.
CHARLKS W. Wi-.sr; Panama, Mr. R. G. DK PARKDES; I'.ris, Mr. GEORGE WATERS;
Pernambuco, Messrs. WILSON, Rowrc & Co. ; Rio dc Janeiro, Messrs. E. P. WILSON Co. ;
Santander, Mr C. SAINT MARTIN ; Sandy Point, Mr. K. B. SHANKI.IN ; Valparaiso, Mr. JOHN

PRAIN; Vigo, Messrs. BARCENA Y Ho. "IIKAD OFFICES, 31, James St., LIVERPOOL >

A. M. SAUNDERSON, Secretary.

PACIFIC STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.

LIVERPOOL &WEST COAST LIKE

RATES OF FARES FROM LIVERPOOL,

IST CLASS.

2ND (

)LASS.

3RD

CLASS.

SINGLE RETURN |

SINGLE

RETURN

SINGLE

*-\ *-

5580

3 3

Sa.nts.ndor

7 10

Gorunna, Vigo, and Carrii ...
Lisbon

10
JO 15

7 10
7 10

11 5

Pornambuco, Bahia, & Rio de Janeiro

30 45

Monte Video and Buenos Ay res

35 52 JO

Valparaiso, Arica, I slay, and Callao

75 112 10

Children under Twelve Years, Half-Fare ; under Eight Years, Quarter
Fare ; one Child of a Family under Three Years, Free. All Fares are payable
in Specie, before embarkation.

Female Servants are charged Two-thirds of the First Class Fare, and are
berthed in the Ladies' Cabin. Men Servants are charged Second Class Fare,
and are berthed in the Second Class Cabin.

Berths are not considered to be engaged until the Fare has been paid.

Passengers not proceeding after having taken their Passage forfeit half of
ihi Passage-Money.

Return Tickets (which are issued only to First Class Passengers and their
Servants accompanying them, and to Second Class Passengers), are available
for twelve calendar months from date of issue. No allowance will be made if
the Tickets be not used within that time.

Luggage measuring not more than 20 cubic feet is allowed for every Adult
Passenger ; any excess is charged 55. per foot to West Coast, and 2s. 6d. per
foot to other ports.

Dogs are not taken unless in charge of Passengers. The rates are To
Bordeaux, 2 ; Lisbon, $ ; Brazil, 4 ; River Plate, $ ; West Coast,

i os. each.

THE PACIFIC LINE OF

TIME TABLE

LEAVING

LIVERPOOL - Every alternate Wednesday.
BORDEAUX - Every alternat3 Saturday.
SANTANDER - Every Fourth Sunday.

CORUNNA - Every Fourth Men Jay.
CABRIL&VIGO Every Fourth Monday.
LISBON - - Every alternate Wednesday.

IBERIA -

- 4671 Tons

JOHN ELDER -

4151 Tons-

SORATA

LIGURIA -

- 4666

ACONCAGUA -

4105

GARONNE

POTOSI

- 4218

COTOPAXI

4027

CHIMBORAZO

BRITANNIA -

4189

ILLIMANI -

4022

CUZCO -

i .

"an. 10

"an. 13
an. 13

T .1

L-\-b. 2

Feb. 24
Feb. 24

Mar. 7

Mar.io
Mar. 10

M-ir ii

Mar. 21

Mar.24
Mar. 24

Vpr. 4

\pr. 7
Vpr. 7

LIVERPOOL... Leave
Bordeaux ...{?
Santander ...{?
Corunna ...{?
Carril&Vigo[ e
L"bon {?
Pernambuco [?e
Bahia {T
Kio Janeiro {
Monte Video{JsS?
PuntaArenas{* e e e
VALPARAISO Arrive

...

Jan. 24

Jan. 27
Jan. 27

Feb. 7

Feb. 10
Feb. 10

Apr. 1 8

Apr. 21
Apr. 21

May 2

May .,
May s

May
May o

May -

...

Jan. 15

...

Feb. 12

...

\Iar.i2
Mar.i2

Mar.26

\pr. 9
Vpr. 9

Apr. 23

J >n. 29

Feb. 2-

... jja, 29

in. 16 Jan. 30
an. 17 Jan. 31

Tan. 28 ...
"an. 28 ...

Feb. 13
Vb. 14

M>. 2S

Feb. 25
<'eb. 27

F.-b. 27
Feb. 28

\Iar.i3
vlar.i4

M ir . 25
Mar. 25

M.r.27

Mar.2 7
Mar.2

Vpr. 10
Vpr. n

Vpr. 22
Vpr. 22

Vpr. 24

Apr. 24
Apr. 25

May

May 21
May 21

Ma v.-
May 2'

May 3 <
May 3 L

J'ne .s
I'ne :-,

J'ne ii.

...

f'eb 2-

>lar. 27

Vpr. 24

Vpr. 27
Apr. 28

vl ay 2
May 3

Mav 8
.lay 8

May 15

May IP
May ii

May i.-
May i<>

May 21
May 2.

May 28

Feb. 2
Feb. 3

Feb. 7
Feb. 8

Feb. 13
Feb. 13

Feb. 20

Feb. i^
Feb. 16

Feb. 2r
Feb. 21

Feb. 26
Feb. 2(

Mar. 5

Mar. 2
Mar. 3

Mar. 7
\Iar. 8

\Iar.i 3
\lar.i3

Mar. 20

Mar. 15
Mar. 10

Mar. 20
Mar. 2 1

Mar. 26
Mar .26

Vpr. a

May <

M.-iv SJ
i\luy ib

May 22
May 2j

May 27
May 28

May 3 1
May 3

June 2
June 2

J'ne i(
J 'ne lO

J'ne IQ
J'ne K

J'ne 22

M ir.30
Mar. 31

Vpr. 4
Apr. 5

Vpr. 10
Apr. 10

\pr. 17

Apr. 12
Apr. 13

Apr. 17
Apr. ib

Apr. 23
Apr. 23

Apr. 30

...

VALPARAISO Leave
PuntaArenas}^;;

Montevideo^ 6
Kio Janeiro {j
Bahia /f' rive

Jan. 3 'jan. 17

Jan. 9 Jan. 23
Jan. 10 Jan. zl

Jan. 16 Jan. 30
Jan. 17 Jan. 31

Jan. 21 Feb. 4
Jan. 22 Feb. 5

... Feb. 8
... ceb. 8

... Feb. 10
... Feb. 10

'Feb. 9 Feb. 24
Feb. 9 Feb. 24

Feb. i2Feb 27
Feb. 12 Feb. 27

;Fcb. 15 Mar. 2

Jan. 31

Feb. 6

Feb. 7

?eb. 13
?eb. 14

F-b. 18
?eb. 19

Mar. g
Mar. o

Mar. 12
Ma-. 12

Mar. 1 5

Feb. 14

Feb. 20
Feb. 21

Feb. 27
Feb. 28

Mar. 4
Mar. 5

Mar. 8
Mar. 8

Mar. 10
Mar. 10

Mar. 24
Mar. 2.

Mar. 27
.AIar.27

Feb. 28

Mar. (
Mar. 7

Mar i
Mar. 14

Mar. i^
Mar. ic

Apr. C
Apr. (.

Apr. r
\pr. f

Apr. 12

Mar. 14

Mar. 20
Mar. 21

Mar. 27
Mar. 2b

A pr. i
Apr. 2

Apr. 5
Apr. 5

Apr. 7
Apr. 7

Apr. 21
Apr. 21

\pr. 24
M' r . 2 4

j ^pr. 27

Mar. 28

Apr. 3
Apr. 4

Apr. 10
Apr. ii

Apr. 15
Apr. 16

May 4

May 7
May 7

May jr.

Apr. u

Apr. 17
Apr. ib

Apr. 24
Apr. 25

Apr. 2r
Apr. 30

May

May ;

May J
May 1

May i
May i

Maya

May ^

May 2

Vpr. 25

May i

May 2

May 8
May 9

May 13
May 14

Juno 1
June i

June 4
June 4

June 7

May 23

Mav 2c
May jc

June 5
June C

f uno ir
Juneii

I'ne 2r

J III- 2',

fulv 2
July 2

July 5

June t
"
J'ne 12
J'ne i^

Jne 10

J ne 20

J 'ne 2<
J'ne 25

J'ne 28
|'ne 28

J'ne 30
J'"e 3

July 14
July 14

July 17
July 17

July 20

J'ne co

I'ne z<>
)' 2?

July 3

July 4

July 8
July 9

fuly 27
July 27

July 30
July 30

\\IK- 2

Jiy A

July 10
July ii

Fiily 17
July it

July 22

July 23

July 26
Juy 26

July 28
July 28

Autf.ii
Aug. ii

.W.i.)
A.ng.i4

An- 17

J,ly is
July 2.

fulyji
Aug.

Aug. s
Aug.

Aug. 24
Aug. ^4

Aug. 27
Aug. 27

Aug. 30

Cleave
Pernambuco {j

Lisbon* JJ2JJ

Bordeaux .. {-
LIVERPOOL ..Arrive

* The J'ac\ets may Arrive at Lisbon e irlicr than the time stated in the Table, rmd in such case
JNOT^S Evary Steamer takes Carg-o for all Ports on the "West Coast No. 1 calls at Pernambuco andJ

on the Outward Voyag-e, but calls at bahia.

*OYAL MAIL STEAMERS.

-"OB 1877.

RETURNING FROM

LLLAO - - Every alternate Tuesday,
A.LPAHAISO - Every alternate "Wednesday.
ONTE VIDEO Every alternate Wednesday.

RIO EE JANEIRO Every alternate Monday.
BAHIA - - Every Fourth Thursday.
PEENAMBUCO - Every Fourth Saturday.

- 4013 Tons. GALICIA

- 3829Tons. PATAGONIA

- 2866 Tons

- 3870

LUSITANIA

- 3825

CORDILLERA

- 2860

3847

VALPARA SO

- 3575

MAGELLAN-

- 2866

- 3845

ARAUCANIA

- 2877

2 1 1 2

1 2

iy i6|May 30 J'ne 13

J'ne 27

Tuly ii

July 25

Aug. 8

Aug. 22

Sept. 5

Septig

Oct. 3

Oct. 17 Oct. 31

Nov. 14 Nov. 28

Dec. 12

Dec. 26

y. 5

iy 19

une 2
une 2

''ne 16

f'ne 16

r'ne 30
J'ne 30

Iu'y 14 July 28
uly 14 July 2$

Aug,n
Aug. ii

Aug.25
Aug. 25

Sept. 8
Sept. 8

Sept. 22
Sept.22

Oct. 6
Oct. 6

Oct. 20; Nov. ]
Oct. 20 Nov. 3

Mov. 17 Dec. i
Nov. 17 Dec. i

Dec. 15
Dec. 15

Dec. 29
Dec. 29

une 3

July i

July 29

Aug. 26

...

Sept.23

...

Oct. 21

Mov. 18;

Dec. 16

...

"'.

une 3

...

July i

...

July "9

Aug. 26

Sept.23

...

Oct. 21

Nov. 18

D,c. 16

une 4

...

July 2

...

July 30

Aug. 27

...

Sept. 24

...

Oct. 22

Nov. 19

Dec. 17

...

une 4

July 2

...

July 3 t,

lug. 37

...

Sept.24

...

Oct. 22

...

Nov. 19

Dec. 17

...

ay 21

T'ne 18

...

Tulv 16

Aug. 13

Sept.io

Oct. 8

...

Nov. 5

... Dec. 3

...

Dec. 31

ay 21

'.'.'. J'ne 18

... July 16

Aug. 13

Sept.ii

...

Oct. 8

Nov. 5

... Dec. 3

Dec. 31

1878

ay 22
ay 23

une 51
une o

'ne 19
'ne 20

July 3. ] u ly 17
July 4 July 18

July 31
Aug. i

VugiJs

Aug. 28
Aug.29

Sept. 1 1
Sept. 1 2

Sept.25
Sept. 26

Oct. 9
Oct. 10

Oct. 23
Oct. 24

Nov. 6

Nov. 7

Nov. 20 Dec. 4
\ T ov. 21 Dec. 5

Dec. i8 : Jan. i
Dec. 19 Jan. 2

'ne 17

...

July 15

Aug.)

'ept. 9

Oct. 7

Mov. 4

Dec. 2

Dec. 30

...

July 15

S< pt. 9

Oct. 7

Nov. 4

Dec. 2

Dec. 30

Nov. 6

Dec A

1878

::.'

ne 19
'ne 19

...

July 17

...

Aug.M

...

Sept. 1 1

Oct. 9

...

Mov. 6

...

Dec. 4

...

Jan. i

!'.'.

me 7
me 8

['ne 22
['ne 23

July 5

July 6

Julv 20
July 21

Aug. 2
Aug. 3

Aug. 1 7
Aug.ii

A.ug.3i

Sept 14
Sept 15

Sept.27
Sept.2t

Oct. 12

Oct. 1 3

Oct. 25
Oct. 26

Mov. c,
Mov. 10

NOV. 22

\OV. 2j

Dec. 7 Dec. 20
Dec. 8 Dec. 21

Jan. 4
Jan. 5

Jan. 17
Jan. 18

ne 12
ne 13

J'ne 27
J'ne 28

July 10
July ii

Ju'y 25
July 26

Aug. 7Aug.22
Aug. 8 Aug.23

Sept. 4
Sept. 5

Sept.ig

S pt.20

Oct. 2
Oct. 3

Oct. 17
Oct. 18

Oct. 30
Oct. 31

Mov 14
Nov. 15

Nov. 27
Nov. 28

Dec 12 Dec. 25
Dec- 13 Dec. 26

Jan. 9 Jan. 22
Jan. lolan. 23

ne 18
ne 18

Ju'y 3
July 3

July 16
July 16

July 31
July 31

Aug.i3|Aug.28
Aug-.i3lAug.28

Septio
Sept.io

Sept.25
Sept.25

Oct. 8
Oct. 8

Oct. 23
Oct, 23

Nov. 5

Mov. 20
Aov. 20

Dec. 3
Dec. 3

Dec. 18 Dec. 31
Dec. i8Dcc.3i

1878

Jan. 15 Jam 28
Jan. isjan. 28

ne 25

July 10 July 23

Aug. 7

Aug.20

Sept. 4

Sop^.i

Oct. 2

Oct. i^

Oct. 30

Nov. 12

Nov. 27

Dec. 10

Dec, 25 Jan. 7

Jan. 22

Feb. 4

1878

ug.

Aug.is

Aug.29

Sept.i2

Sept.26'Oct. ic

Oct. 2

Nov. 7

Nov.2

Dee. 5

Dec. 19

Jan. 2'Jan. 16

Jan. 30

Feb. 13

Feb. 27

Mar.ij

ug.

Aug2i

Aug. 22

Sept. 4
Sept. 5

Sept.iS
Sept. 1 9

Oct. 2 Oct. it
Oct. 3 Oct. 17

Oct. 3
Oct. 3

Nov. ii
Nov. 14

Nov. 2
Nov.2

Dec. ii
Dec. 12

Dec. 25
Dec. 26

1878

Jan. 8
Jan. 9

Jan. 22
Jan. 23

Feb. 5
*Feb.

Feb. 19
Feb. 20

Mar. 5
Mar. 6

Mar. 1 9
Mar.20

lug. i

Aug. 28 Sept. 1 1

Sept.25

Oct. 9 Oct. 21

Nov.

Nov 20

Dec.

Dec. if-

Jan.

Jan. 15

Jan. 29 Feb. 12 Feb. 26>Mar.i2

Mar.26

tug. i

Aug.2C,

Sept. 12

Sept. 26

Oct. 10 Oct. 24

Nov.

Nov. 21

Dec.

Dec. 19

Jan. 2

Jan. ib

Jan. 30 Feb. 13 Feb. 27

Mar.i3

Mar.27

lug. i

lUg. 20

Sept. 2
Sept. 2

Sept 30
Oct. i

Oct. 14
Oct if

Oct. 2?
Oct. 2C.

Mov.

Nov.

\ov.2S
Nov.io

Dec.
Dec. i

Dec. 23
Dec. 24

Jan. 6
Jan.

Jan. 20
Jan. 21

Feb. 3 Feb. 17
Feb. 4 Feb. 18

Mar. 3
Mar. 4

Mar. 1 7

Mar.iS

Mar.3i
Apr. i

lug. 23

...

Sept 20

Oct. iJ

Nov.

Dec. i

Jan. 10

...

Feb. 7

...

Mar. 7

Apr. 4

ug. 2_;

Sept.2c

Oct. it

Nov.

Dec. i

Jan. 10

Feb. 7

...

Mar. 7

...

Apr. 4

i u g. 25

Sept. 2:

...

Oct. 2C

Nov.

Dec. i

J.in. 12

Feb. 9

Mar. 9

Apr. 6

>ug- 2 5

...

Septa:

...

Oct. 2C

Nov.

. .

Dec. i

Jan. 12

Feb. 9

...

Mar. 9

...

Apr. 6

1878

iept. *
ept. f

Sept. 21
Sept. 2

lOct. 6 Oct. i Xov. 3 Nov. it
Oct. 6'Oct. 19 Nov. 3JNov. i(

Dec.
I) C.

Dec. 14 Dor. 2
Dec. lAlDec. 2

*u/ u
Jan. ii
Jan. ii

Jan. 26
Jan. 20

Feb. 8
Feb. 8

Feb. 23 - Mar.
Feb. 23 Mar. 8

Mar. 23 Apr. 5
Mar.23'Apf. s

Apr. 20
Apr. 20

1878

iept. 1 1
iept. ii

Sept. 2.
Sept.2C

Oct. 9 Oct. 22
|Oot. g'Oct. 22

Nov. 6 Nov. i
Nov. Nov. ir

Dec.

Dec. 17 Jan.
Dec. 17 Jan.

J.in. 14
Jan. i.)

Jan. 2
Jan. 29

Feb. ii

Feb. 1 1

Feb. 26 Mar. 1 1
Feb. 20 Mar. n
i

Mar.26

Apr. 8 Apr. 23
Ape. 8 Apr. 23

iept. i.]

Sept.27 Oct. 12 Oct. 2;

Noy. 9 Nov. 25

Doc. 20] Jan.

Jan. 17

Feb.

P
Feb. T i Mar. i Mar.i4

Mar.29 Apr. n Apr. 26

lie Sailings from Lisbon and Arrival and ]) parturc from Pauillac will be correspondingly earlier.

Jahia on the Outward, and at Vigo on he Homeward Voyage. No. 2 runs from Lisbon to Bio

JlKECTand Pernambuco on the Voyage Home.

THE TOURIST'S GUIDE.

LONDON

AND

THE BRITISH ISLES.

An Itinerary Guide

FOR

TOURISTS,

Illustrated with Thirty-eight Maps and Plans.

E. G. RAVENSTEIN, F.R.G.S., F.S.S., &c.

THOMSON BROTHERS,
120, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTORY.

PAGE

1. Preparations for the Journey ... .. .. . . .. l

2. A Trip through the United Kingdom 3

3. British Railways 6

4. Money, Weights, and Measures 8

LONDON DIRECTORY.

5. Board and Residence .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 10

6. Conveyance Directory .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 16

7. Museums, Public Institutions, Art Collections, and other sights . . . . 22

8. Amusements (Theatres, Concerts, Music Halls, &c.) 32

9. Miscellaneous Addresses and Fixtures (Places of Worship, Societies, Art

Galleries, Libraries, Baths, Money Changers, Foreign Ambassadors) . . 38

A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LONDON.

10. Historical Sketch 46

11. Extent and Population . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

12. Streets and Parks 58

13- Public Buildings 64

14. Religious and Charitable Institutions 66

15. Education, Art, and Science 72

16. Commerce and Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

17. Government of London, Public Works .. .. .. .. .. ..78

18. Clubs and Places of Amusement 86

WALKS AND RIDES THROUGH LONDON.

19. How to see London 88

20. A Criss-Cross Track through London .. .. .. .. .. ..92

21. Trafalgar Square to Westminster Abbey 9')

22. Westminster, Chelsea, and Battersea 102

23. The West End Parks 106

24. St. James's .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..114

25. Regent Street, Regent's Park, and Zoological Gardens 124

26. Belgravia, Mayfair, and Tyburnia . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

CONTENTS.

PAGE

27. Central London 140

28. Strand and Fleet Street to the Bank 150

29. The Heart of the City 164

30. A Walk through the City 166

31. Queen Victoria Street and the Thames Embankment i;8

32. To the Tower 182

33. Docks, Tunnel .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 190

34. South London 192

35. North-East London and Victoria Park 200

DESCRIPTIONS OF IMPORTANT BUILDINGS AND MUSEUMS.

36. Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall . . . . . . . . . . 206

37. Westminster Abbey 210

38. St. Paul's Cathedral 230

39. The Tower of London 234

40. The British Museum 238

41. The Museums in South Kensington .. 246

42. The National Gallery ; 5i

THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON.

43. Woolwich and Greenwich .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 2^3

44. Crystal Palace, Dulwich, and Norwood 262

45. Hampton Court, Richmond, and Kew . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

46. Alexandra Palace, Hampstead, and Highgate 272

47. Windsor and Virginia Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

48. Minor Excursions 278

EXCURSIONS FROM LONDON.

49. Gravesend, Chatham, Rochester 282

50. Oxford 282

51. Brighton 2 36

52. Hastings 290

A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND, WALES, SCOTLAND,
AND IRELAND.

53. Isle of Wight 290

54. South- Western England 294

55. North of England and Scotland .. .. .. ., .. .. .. 398

56. Mid- England and North Wales .. 314

57. Ireland..

LONDON AND THE BRITISH ISLES.

l.-PBEPABATIONS FOB THE JOUBNEY.

THE traveller in search of health or
amusement requires no further pre-
paration for his journey than that, having
put his house in order, he should "put
money in his purse," so as to be able to
meet the claims which will be made upon
him at every step he takes. But if travel-
ing is to be instructive, it is absolutely
necessary that we should know something
of the history, literature, and arts, the
social and political condition, and the
geography of the countries which we are
about to visit. The scientific or profes-
sional traveller, as a matter of course,
carefully prepares himself for his journey,
and the tourist too may largely add to his
enjoyment by acting in a similar manner.
The contemplation of the ruins of by-
gone ages will interest him far more if he
knows something more of the history of
their rise and fall than can be conveyed
in a Guide Book, however copious it may
be, whilst the institutions of foreign coun-
tries can be judged fairly only if we know
something of their growth. Need we say,
that some knowledge of one's own native
country is equally indispensable, in order
to enable one fairly to judge other coun-
tries. How many are there not who are
but very imperfectly acquainted with the
resources, the virtues, and failings of
their native land, who have never been
able to spare the time from business or
pleasure to inquire into such subjects, and
might frequently be put to shame by an
"intelligent foreigner," who has been at
some pains to ascertain the truth about
them ! Let such travellers beware of
forming harsh opinions on what they see
abroad !

And to travellers of all classes we say :
you must be prepared to sacrifice some
comforts to which you have been accus-
tomed ; you exchange a home prepared
with special reference to your individual
wishes for an hotel or inn ; you have to
contend with the importunities of guides
and showmen, and to accommodate your-
self to the manners and customs of a
foreign people ; you have to submit to the
discomforts of steamers and railroads.
But we say, let none of these ruffle your
temper. Start with a determination of
enjoying yourself, in spite of everything
calculated to mar your pleasure, and the
money expended will have been expended
profitably.

TRAVELLING SEASON. This must de-
pend to some extent upon the objects
which the traveller has in view. London
should certainly be visited in May, June,
or July ; that is during the " season,"
when the Queen holds Drawing Rooms
and Levees, Parliament is sitting, the
principal Art Exhibitions and the Opera
Houses are open, and the presence of the
fashionable world lends features to the
town which are more or less absent
during the remainder of the year. Those
travellers who take an interest in Horse
Racing should manage to be in London
on the Derby Day (Wednesday before
Whit Sunday), when the most celebrated
races of the year take place on Epsom
Downs, attracting hundreds of thousands
of spectators. Other important races are
the Epsom Spring Meeting, on the second
Tuesday after Easter, the Craven Meeting
at Newmarket on Easter Tuesday, the
Spring Meetings at Newmarket on the

2. A TRIP THROUGH THE UNITED KINGDOM.

second Thursday and fifth Tuesday after
Easter, and the fashionable Ascot Races
on the second Tuesday after Whit Sunday.

The Hunting Season extends from
October to March (the "meets" are ad-
vertised in the Field and other news-
papers). The Shooting Season extends
from the I2th August to the 1st February.

Other events of interest, as far as Lon-
don is concerned, are the University Boat
Race on the Thames, between Putney and
Mortlake, on Saturday before Good Fri-
day ; the Concert of the Charity Children
in St. Paul's on the ist Tuesday in June ;
the Cricket Match between Eton and
Harrow in July ; the Lord Mayor's Show
on the 9th of November ; and the Cattle
Show, in Islington, during the second
week in December.

TRAVELLING EXPENSES naturally de-
pend upon the wants of the traveller.
Living at first-rate hotels, including at-
tendance and all meals, but no wines,
costs from 125. to 2os. per day, and this
expenditure need not be exceeded if a
portion of the meals be taken at a first-
class restaurant. In the country the ex-
penses are somewhat less. Travellers of
more moderate means may find suitable
accommodation for about 2 a week.

PASSPORT. No passport is asked for
on entering or leaving the United King-
dom, but subjects of States in which pass-
ports are compulsory are required to
produce one when calling for a letter at
the Poste Restante.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. The only
articles upon which Customs duties have
to be paid are cigars, tobacco, wines, beer,
spirits of all kinds, malt, dried fruit, tea,
coffee, vinegar, cocoa, chocolate, chicory,
playing cards, gold and silver plate.
Travellers are allowed duty free one pint
of drinkable spirit, half-pint of liqueur or
perfumed spirit, and half-pound of cigars
or tobacco. They may likewise import
five pounds of cigars or tobacco on pay-
ment of 55. 6d. per pound. All other
articles liable to duty must pass through
the Custom House, and their presence
among the traveller's luggage would ex-
pose him to vexatious delay and expense.
Reprints of books enjoying English copy-
right are confiscated.

DRESS. We advise all travellers
(American especially), to restrict their
luggage to what is absolutely necessary
during the journey, and to supplement it
by purchases made in this country, where
most articles usually required by travellers
can be supplied at a cheaper rate than
anywhere else in Europe.

LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION may prove
of immense service to a stranger, and if
written by friends of influence, are certain
to insure the bearer a cordial and hospi-
table reception. An introduction to the
Ambassador of his country is of value, for
it enables the foreigner to obtain access
to certain government establishments and
private collections which are otherwise
closed against him.

. A TRIP THROUGH THE UNITED KINGDOM.

THERE are travellers, who, immediately
after they have landed at Liverpool or
some other port, rush up to London, and
having spent a week or two there, return
to their native land, or cross over to the
Continent to taste the cup of pleasure at
Paris, or to scale the Alps. London is
certainly worth a long journey, but it is
not the United Kingdom. Not only are
there other towns abounding in interest to
the social economist, the art amateur, the
historian, and the ordinary tourist, but
there is likewise scenery to be met with

in many parts of these islands which is
quite equal, if not superior, to what may
be seen in many parts of Europe, so
ardently sought after by the tourist world.
What is there in Europe to surpass in
solemn grandeur the lochs of Scotland?
in loveliness the lakes of Cumberland?
What view in Switzerland exceeds in
beauty that from Snowdon ?

With a view, therefore, of meeting the
requirements of those travellers who do
not desire to confine themselves to a hur-
ried visit, we append some skeleton tours

3.-BRITISH RAILWAYS.

tinder the general head of a " Trip through
the United Kingdom? The proposed
trip extends over fifty days, not including
a lengthened stay in London, but as there
are rainy days as well as Sundays, it will
be as well to allow for ten days of rest. The
whole of the routes mentioned are described
by us in Part II., and it will be easy to
curtail or to expand our plan.

EXCURSION TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

"l. Day. Portsmouth, Ryde, Ventnor.

2. Day. Ventnor to Freshwater.

3. Day. Cowes, Southampton.

4. Day. London.

EXCURSION TO SOUTH-WEST OF ENGLAND.

5. Day. Bath, Bristol.

6. Day. Ilfracombe.

7. Day. Plymouth.

8. Day. Exeter.
9.* Day. Salisbury.

10. Day. London.

TRIP TO NORTH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

11. Day. London to York, and Newcastle-

on-Tyne.

12. Day. Edinburgh.

13. Day. Edinburgh. Excursion to Abbots-

ford.

14. Day. Stirling, Callander, Trossachs.

15. Day. Loch Lomond to Glasgow.

1 6. Day. Oban by way of Loch Awe.

17. Day. Excursion to lona and Staffa.

18. Day. Glencoe and Banavie.

19. Day. Caledonian Canal to Inverness.

20. Day. Rail to Aberdeen; or in one day

direct to Perth.

21. Day. Up the Dee to Braemar.

22. Day. Blair Athole.

23. Day, Pass of Killiecrankie, Perth, Stir-

ling, Glasgow.

24. Day. Carlisle, Keswick.

25. Day. Excursion into Borrodale.

26. Day. Windermere.

27. Day. Liverpool.

28. Day. Manchester, London.

MID-ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES.

29. Day. London to Oxford.

30. Day. Warwick, Leamington, Kenil-

worth, Coventry.

31. Day. Birmingham.

32. Day. Rail to Ruabon, Llangollen.

33. Day. Chester.

34. Day. Rail to Betws-y-Coed, Capel Curig.

35. Day. Snowdon, Llanberris.

36. Day. Carnarvon, Holyhead.

IRELAND.

37. Day. Dublin.

38. Day. Rail to Cork.

39. Day. Cork. Excursion to Blarney.

40. Day. Cork to Dunmanway and Bantry

Bay.

41. Day. Bantry, boat to Glengariff; car by

way of Kenmare to Killarney.

42. Day. Killarney. Excursions (pass of

Dunloe).

43. Day. Rail to Tralee ; car to Tarbert ;

boat to Kilrush (or by rail direct
from Killarney to Limerick.)

44. Day. Kilrush to Limerick.

45. Day. Limerick to Castle Connel and

Killaloe (L. Dergh.)

46. Day. Dublin.

47. Day. Belfast.

48. Day. Giant's Causeway.

49. Day. Back to Belfast.

50. Day. London.

3.-BRITISH RAILWAYS.

RAILWAYS cross the country in all direc-
tions, and though their management may
be inferior in some respects to that of
foreign lines, they afford the public more
frequent trains and higher speed.

The carriages on some lines leave much
to be desired. Saloon and sleeping car-
riages, however, have recently been intro-
duced in connection with most through
trains.

The Companies are bound by Act of
Parliament to dispatch daily a so-called
Parliamentary or Government train in
each direction, for which the charge must

not exceed a penny a mile ; but several of
the more important amongst them now
find it is their interest to attach 3rd class
carriages to most of their express trains,
and speed may thus be combined with
economy.

Return tickets are issued universally,
as are also tourist and season tickets
Ordinary return tickets are available for
two or more days, according to the dis-
tance ; but this varies on different lines.

Excursion trains convey passengers at
very low fares ; but are very crowded, tra-
vel slowly, and not otherwise desirable.
6

4.-MONEY, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

Foot-warmers are supplied during win-
ter. Smoking carriages are attached to
each train, and smoking in a compartment
not set apart for that purpose involves a
fine of 405.

Ladies carriages are' to be found in
most trains.

The tickets are issued up to the time
the train starts ; but travellers, especially
if they have luggage, should be at the
station ten minutes before that time. A
list of fares is suspended close to the
ticket clerk's window.

Tickets aro usually asked for on step-
ping upon the platform, and on arrival at
the place of destination. Travellers found
without a ticket are liable to pay for the
whole distance the train has travelled ;
and persons making use of a class superior
to that for which they have paid, must
either pay the difference or are liable to a
penalty, in case they are suspected of fraud.

LUGGAGE. Every passenger is entitled
to the free conveyance of 5olbs. (ist class
loolbs.) of luggage. The passenger should
see that his luggage is labelled on reach-
ing the platform, for the company is liable
for loss only if this has been done ; and
on reaching his destination he should at
once claim his luggage. Unclaimed lug-
gage is taken to the cloak room.

GRATUITIES. Railway servants are not
permitted to accept gratuities, a regula-
tion " more honoured in the breach than
in the observance."

WAITING ROOMS. These are accessible
to the general public.

RESTAURANTS. Some of these are
superior, especially in London.

INSURANCE TICKETS are issued to
passengers on payment of 2d. or 3d. to
the ticket clerk ; but these do not cover
accidents caused by the wilful act of the
insured.

4.-MONEY, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

No foreign money is received in the United
Kingdom, either at railway stations or
anywhere else, except at a great loss.
The coins in circulation are

GOLD. Sov. = 203. Half-sov. = IDS.
SILVER. Crown = 55.

Half-crown = 2s. 6d.
Florin = 2s.

Shilling ; Six-penny piece ;
Four - penny piece ; and
Three-penny piece.
BRONZE. Penny, Half -penny, and

Farthing (4= id.)

Bank of England Notes are taken in
payment at all hotels and stations, but
require to be endorsed with name and
address if so demanded.

Scotch and Irish Bank Notes have
no currency in England.

VALUE OF ENGLISH EXPRESSED IN
FOREIGN COINS.

American
(gold)

France,
Italy.
Switzerland.
Belgium

Germany.

Austria
(silver.)

Sovereign

Shi 'in"

4 clol. 84 cs.

25 frs. 15 cs.

20 ink. 42 pf.

10 florins

Penny

2 CS.

10 CS.

- ,. Z% pf.

;* :

WEIGHTS.

loo English Pounds avoirdupois = 45.4
7

I kilogrammes=8i Austrian pounds=9O7
German or Swiss pounds=45'4 Dutch
pond = i io'8 Russian pounds = 1067
Swedish skalpund.

MEASURES OF LENGTH.

I English Foot = 30-48 centimetres =
O'97 Austrian feet = I Russian foot =
i *oi Swiss feet.

loo Statute Miles 160 kilometres =
21-69 German miles = 21-09 Austrian
miles 150 Russian versts = 33 ^ Swiss
stunden.

SQUARE MEASURE.

ioo Acres = 40*46? hectares 70-31
Austrian joch= 158-5 old Prussian morgen
=37 Russian deshatins = 81-98 Swedish
tunnland = 112-4 Swiss juchart.

i Square Mile = 2*59 square kilometres,
i German square mile = 21*26 English
square miles.

MEASURES OF CAPACITY.

ioo Imperial Quarters = 291 hectolitres
= 473 Austrian metzen = 529 Prussian
scheflel = 138^ Russian chetwert = 194
Swiss malter.

ioo Gallons = 454 litres = 321 Austrian
maas = 397 Prussian quart = 36*9 Rus-
sian vedro = 303 Swiss maas.
8

..... ftailwav- Flai I way Station. = tfmnibus.floiifr

L O N

ID O N

2 Miles.

LONDON DIRECTORY.

5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE.

Hotels, Apartments, Refreshment Places.

HOTELS. The choice of a hotel is of
the highest importance to the traveller.
If bent merely upon pleasure, one of the
numerous VWest End Hotels should be
selected ; if engaged in business, a City
hotel may answer best ; or if the visit is
made for purposes of study, a hotel or
boarding-house near the institution which
it is proposed to attend, may prove most
advantageous.

It may be advisable, especially on
arriving in the evening, to pass the first
night in the terminus hotel.

Large hotels are generally provided for
the general accommodation of visitors,
with a coffee-room, a ladies' coffee-room,
a drawing-room, and a smoking-room.
Smoking is not allowed except in the
saloon appropriated to that purpose.
Attendance is now generally charged in
the bill. Where this, is not done a
gratuity of is. daily should be given.

A table tfJiote is met with only in a
few instances, and the traveller will
generally fare better if he takes his
dinner at a restaurant.

The following is a list of hotels most
conveniently suited for ' travellers, and all
of which can be recommended.

TERMINUS HOTELS.

Charing Cross Hotel (Plan F 6). Bed -room
2s. to 43. 6d. ; double bedded room 33. to
los. 6d. ; sitting-room 75. 6d. to los. 6d.
Breakfast, 2s. to 33. Table d'hote at 6 o'clock,
6s. Attendance is. 6d.

Grosvenor Hold, adjoining the Victoria Sta-
tion, Pimlico (Plan E 8). Architect, J. T.
Knowles. Same charges.

Cannon Street Hold (Plan I 5). Architect,
J. Barry. 9 Similar charges.

Great Western Hotel, Paddington Station
(Plan B 5). Bed 2s. to 6s. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ;
dinners, 2s. 6d. Attendance is. 6d.

Enston and Victoria Hold, opposite to the
Euston Station (Plan F 3). Bed 2s. 6d. to
53. Breakfast 2s. to 3s. Attendance is. 6d.

Midland Hotel, Pancras Station, a magnifi-
cent pile. Architect, Sir G. Scott. Bed 2s. 6d.
to I2s. Breakfast 2s. to 33. 6d. ; table d'hote
$s. Attendance is. 3d. to is. 6d. (Plan F 3).
Great Northern Railway Hotel (Plan, F 3).
International Hotel, London Bridge (Plan 1 6).
Bed 2s. to 45. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 33. 6d.

WEST END HOTELS.

Langham, Portland Place (Plan E 4). Bed
33. to I2s. ; breakfast 2s. to 33. 6d. ; table
d'hote at 6 o'clock. 6s. Attendance is. 6d.

Nelson's Portland Hotel, Great Portland-
street (Plan 4). Bed 2s. 6cl. Breakfast
2s. to 33. 6d. ; dinner 35. Attendance is. 6d.

Hatchetfs Hotel, White Horse Cellars, 67,
Piccadilly (Plan E 6). Bed 33. Breakfast
2s. 6d. Attendance 2s.

Alexandra Hotel, St. George's-place, Hyde
Park-corner (Plan D 7), with prospect over
Hyde Park. Bed 33. Breakfast 2s. to 33. ;
dinner 33. 6d. Attendance is. 6d.

Claridge's Hotel, 92, Brook-street, Gros-
venor-square (Plan D 5), one of the most aris-
tocratic hotels of London.

Long's Hotel, 1 6, New Bond-street (Plan 5), ,
much visited by sportsmen. Bed 35. 6d. <
Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 43. 6d.

Buckingham Palace Hotel, Buckingham-gale
(Plan E 7). Bed 43. Breakfast 2s. 6d. ;
dinner 33. 6d. Attendance 2S.

CHARING CROSS.

Morley's Hotel, Trafalgar-square (Plan F 6),
much frequented by Americans. Bed 33.
Breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 33. 6cl.

Hotel Sabloniere, 17, Leicester-square (Plan
F 5), a good French house.

WESTMINSTER.

Westminster Palace Hotel, Victoria-street
(Plan F 7). Bed 35. 1o 6s. Breakfast 2s.
to 33. ; all meals, a la carte, los. daily. Atten-
dance is. 6d. Board and residence for seven
days from 4 8s.

STRAND AND VICINITY.

HaxeWs Exeter Hotel, adjoining Exeter Hall
(Plan G 5). Bed 2s. 6d. Breakfast is. 6d.
to 2s. 6d. Attendance is. Board and lodg-
ing los. a day.

5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE.

Craven Hotel (A. Warner), Craven-street,
Strand (Plan F 6). Bed for two persons 35. 6d.
Breakfast 2s. to 35. Attendance is- 6d.

Caledonian Hotel, Robert-street, Adelphi-
terrace (Plan G 6). Bed and breakfast 45.
Attendance is. Board (four meals) and resi-
dence 73. daily.

ArttnJel Hotel, 13, Arundel-street, Strand
(Plan G 5). Bed and breakfast 33. 6d. ; board
(four meals) and residence 6s. 6d. daily. At-
tendance is.

Windsor Hotel (M. Grinhold, a German,
proprietor), 427, Strand (Plan, G 5). Bed and
attendance 35. 6d. Breakfast is. to 2s, ;
table d'hote 2s.

Royal Sutrey Hotel, 14, Surrey-street, Strand
(Plan G 5). Bed 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; breakfast
is. 6d. to 2s. ; table d'hote 35. Attendance
6d. Board and residence 425. a week.

COVENT GARDEN MARKET (PLAN G 5).

Taz-i stock Hotel, Piazza (only for gentlemen).
Bed 35. ; breakfast 2s. 6d. ; dinner 35. 6d.
Attendance is. 6d.

The Old and New Humniums, Richardson's
(excellent wines), and others in Covent Garden
Market, can all be recommended to bachelors,
and charge similar prices.

FLEET STREET AND BLACKFRIARS.

AnJerton's, 162, Fleet-street (Plan H 5).
Bed 2s. ; breakfast is. 6d. ; dinner 2s.
Attendance is.

Royal Hotel (De Keyser's), Victoria Em-
bankment, Blackfriars (Plan H 5). Bed
breakfast, and table d'hote and attendance,
I2s. to 205. daily. Visitors not partaking of
table d'hote are allowed 35. Much frequented
by foreigners.

SAINT PAUL'S.

Cathedral Hotel, 48, St. Paul's Churchyard
(Plan 15). Bed 2s. 6d. ; breakfast is. 6d.
to 2s. 6d. ; table d'hote at one and five, is. 9d. ;
Attendance is.

Castle and Falcon, 5, Aldersgate -street,
(Plan I 4). Bed 2s. to 35. ; breakfast 2s. 6d. ;
dinner 35. 6d. Attendance is. 6d.

Queen'' s Hotel (Quartermaine East), adjoin-
ing New Post Office, St. Martin's-le-Grand,
(Plan I 5). Bed 2s. 6d. ; breakfast 2s. to
25. 6d. ; dinner 2s. 6d. Attendance is

FIXSBURY SQUARE.

Buckets Hotel (G. Hohly, a German, pro-
prietor), Christopher-street (PlanK4). Bed
and attendance 2s. 6d. to 35. 6d. ; breakfast
is. 6d. to 2s. ; table d'hote 35.

THE EAST.

Marckmanrfs Hotel, 4, Circus, Minories
(Plan L 5). Bed is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. ; meat
II

breakfast is. 6d. ; table d'hote 2s. Much
frequented by masters of German vessels.

Knits Hotel, America-square (Plan, L 5).
Bed and breakfast 35. to 33. 6d. ; table d'hote
2s. Much frequented by masters of vessels.

APARTMENTS. Visitors making a

lengthened stay in London, and desirous
of economising their means, are recom-
mended to take furnished apartments,
which can be procured in any part of Lon-
don from 2os. upwards a week. Break-
fast and tea are always supplied by the
landlady at cost price, and other meals
are prepared if an arrangement to that
effect is made on taking the rooms. Coals
and gas are extras, and occasionally a
special charge is made for the use of linen
and plate.

The rent depends mainly upon locality.
It is highest in the vicinity of the Clubs
and in the West End generally, lowest in
the suburbs. In some of the streets lead-
ing from the Strand to the Thames Em-
bankment, a bedroom with use of breakfast
room can be had for about IDS. a week,
and as this is a central position, it can be
recommended to visitors. Furnished
apartments are advertised daily in the
papers, and an advertisement either in the
Times or the Daily Telegraph, will call
forth numerous replies.

In taking up one's residence perma-
nently, care should be taken to choose a
locality suited in all respects, and particu-
larly so as regards climate. There are
streets, too, which [ought to be avoided,
and in all cases the advice of a friend who
knows town should be secured.

RESTAURANTS. Places at which re-
freshments can be procured abound in
London. The PUBLIC HOUSES, peculiar
to England and her colonies, with their
glaring fronts, brilliantly illuminated dur-
ing the evening, and the usually not very
attractive crowd frequenting the bar, are
the most prominent amongst them. They
are bound to close at half-past twelve at
night (on Saturdays at midnight), and are
open on Sundays only betwee% I and 3
and 6 and 1 1, except in the case of travel-
lers whom the publican is bound to serve
with "reasonable" refreshments at all
hours of the day. Some of these public
houses are provided with a luncheon-bar,
where plain refreshments are served at a

5.-BOARD AND RESIDENCE.

moderate price. As noted for the quality
of their beer we may mention :

The Horseshoe, adjoining Meux's brew-
ery, at the corner of Tottenham Court-
road and Oxford-street (Stout).

The London Brewery Tap, Upper
Thames-street (Stout).

The Cock t 201, Fleet-street.

Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand (Ale).

Vienna Beer Hall, 395, Strand (Vienna
Ales).

There are a few caffs in the continental
style, amongst which the Cafe Royal, 78,
Regent Street and Gatti's, Adelaide-
street, Strand, are perhaps the best and
most conveniently situated.

CONFECTIONERS' SHOPS are met with
in the main thoroughfares. They supply
all kinds of plain refreshments, as also
beer and light wines, and are frequented
more extensively by ladies. The atten-
dants receive no gratuities.

The OYSTER SEASON extends from
the ist of September to the ist of May.
Amongst the numerous oyster shops the
following can be recommended (in all of
them chops and steaks may be ob-
tained) :

Rule, 36, Maiden-lane, Strand (Plan G 5).

Page, 413, Strand (Plan G 5).

H. Prosser, 202, Fleet-street.

Knight, 26, Charing Cross.

Scott (Sonhammer), 18, Coventry-street, top
of Haymarket (Plan F 5).

Pimm's, 3, Poultry (Plan I 5).

The number of DINING-ROOMS is ex-
ceedingly large, and we include in our
list only those which are conveniently
situated and can be recommended other-
wise. It is customary to give the waiter
about id. for every shilling expended.
The so-called tables d'hote of London
dining-rooms are diners a prix Ji.re in
the continental sense, and a " dinner off
the joint " includes an unlimited supply
of meat, with bread, vegetables, and
cheese.

WEST END.

Verrey** 229, Regent-street. Dinner (soup,
fish, cut fees, &c.,) 5s. Fine French cookery.

Kuhn's Restaurant, 21, Hanover-street,
Regent-street. Excellent cuisine, joint is. 6d.

Blanchard' f, The Burlington, 169, Regent-
street. Dinner (soup, fish, two entries, sweets)
5s. to ;s. 6d.

Blanchard's, 5, Beak-street, Regent-street.
Dinner (soup or fish, three entrees, joint).
2s. 6d.

St. James's Restaurant, 71, Regent-street,
and 22, Piccadilly. Dinner (soup and joint)
2s. 6d. ; or, including all the delicacies of the
season (with turtle soup) los. 6d.

Cafe Royal, 68, Regent-street. Excellent
cuisine.

Criterion, Piccadilly-circus (Plan, F 5),
magnificently fitted up. Table d'hote 33. 6d.
Le Diner Parisien 53. Grill-room and
American bar.

Pall Mall Restaiirant, 14, Regent-street.
Rather expensive.

As cheaper dining-rooms in this neighbour-
hood can be recommended :

The Albany, 190, Piccadilly. Joints 8d.

Upton's, 30, Coventry-street. Joints 6d.

Both these houses have ladies' rooms.

STRAND AND VICINITY.

Clarence Tavern, 34, Charing- cross. Dinner
off the joint is. 6d. (On first floor ; entrance
under archway.)

Knight's, 26, Charing-cross. Steak is.

Adelphi Restaurant, 69, Strand. Grill.
Steak is. Excellent wines from is. 6d. a
bottle.

Vienna Restaurant, 397, Strand. Entrees
from lod. Vienna beer ; excellent liqueurs.

Simpson's, 103, Strand, one of the oldest
and best dining-rooms in London. Dinner off
the joint (i to 8 P.M.), 2s. 6d. Up-stairs
a coffee, smoking, and chess-room ; also a
Ladies' Dining Room.

Gaiety Restaurant, 243, Strand, (first floor).
Dinner (soup, fish, entree, joints, &c.) 3s. 6cl. ;
private dinner 73. 6d.

The Albion, 26, Russell-street, opposite
Drury-lane Theatre. Dinner off the joint
2s. 6d. Ladies' room. Noted house for
suppers.

Carr's, 265, Strand. Dinner off the joints.
is. 6d.

FLEET-STREET.

The London, 191, Fleet-street, corner of
Chancery-lane. Plain dinner 2s. Wine from

2S.

Rainbow, 15, Fleet-street. Dinner off
joints 2s.

Anderton's, 162, Fleet-street. Moderate
prices.

HOLBORN.

Holborn Restaurant, 218, High Holborn.
Table d'hote, 6 to 8. 30 p.m., 33. 6d. A band:
plays during these hours.

6.-CONV/EYANCE DIRECTORY.

CITY.

Lake's, 49, Cheapside. Joints yd.
Pimm's, 3, Poultry.

PurseWs, corner of Cornhill and Finch-lane.
Moderate prices.

Hall, 32, Bishopsgate-street. Built

1466. Was the Palace of Richard III., and
contains the Great Banqueting Hall, Throne,
Council Chamber and Mediaeval Room.
Dinners and Luncheons of all kinds are served.
Three Tuns' Tavern, II, Billingsgate. Fish
dinners (ordinary), at I and 4 p.m., is. 6d.

6. CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY.

(Railways, Steamers, Omnibus, Post

Office Ore.)

METROPOLITAN RAILWAYS.
Our maps of London and of the envi-
rons should be referred to in order to
obtain some idea of the Metropolitan
lines. Amongst them, that which starts
: from Liverpool-street and, describing a
wide circle around the most populous
parts of London, returns to the Mansion
'House Station (Plan I 5) will most fre-
quently prove of service to the traveller.
Trains run every few minutes.

Return tickets should be asked for
whenever the traveller proposes to return
to the station from which he departed.

The following are the Termini of the
Great Railway Companies :

Company. Termini.

( Liverpool-st. (Plan K 4)

< Fenchurch-st.(PlanK5)
King's Cross (Plan G 3)
Paddington (Plan B 5)

LONDON, BRIGHTON j Victoria (Plan E 8) and
AND SOUTH COAST. / London Bdg. (Plan K 6)

( Victoria (Plan E 8)
LONDON, CHATHAM, Lud Hm ^ ^

A VT\ T\rtTrT7T>

< bom Vidt. (Plan H 5)

GREAT EASTERN

GREAT NORTHERN
GREAT WESTERN

AND DOVER.

LONDON AND SOUTH

WESTERN
MIDLAND

METROPOLITAN AND
METROPOLITAN DIS-
TRICTS.

NORTH LONDON
NORTH WESTERN

SOUTH EASTERN

Waterloo (Plan H 6)

St. Pancras (Plan F 3)
From Bishopsgate St.
(Plan K 4) to Mansion
House (Plan I 5), with
stations all round Ldn.
Broad-street (Plan K 4)
Euston (Plan F 3).

SLondon-bdg. (Plan K 6)
Cannon -st. (Plan 15).
Charing-cross ( Plan F 6)

The principal places in the neighbour- j
hood of London generally visited from I
London, can be reached from the follow- I

mg stations :

ALEXANDRA PALACE, from King's Cross
(Great Northern), Broad-street or Moorgate-
street.

CRYSTAL PALACE, from London Bridge,
Victoria, Moorgate-street, and Ludgate-hill.

BLACKHEATH, from Charing-cross, Cannon-
street, and London Bridge.

EPPING FOREST, from Fenchurch-street or
Liverpool-street.

GRAVESEND, from Charing-cross, Cannon-
street, or London Bridge Stations ; also from
Fenchurch-street to Tilbury, thence by steam
ferry.

GREENWICH, from Charing cross, Cannon-
street, and London Bridge ; also from Fen-
church-street to North Woolwich, thence by
steam ferry.

HAMPTON COURT, from Waterloo.

KEW AND RICHMOND, from Broad-street,
Moorgate-street, Waterloo, Ludgate-hill,
Mansion House.

RYE HOUSE, from Liverpool-street.

ST. ALBANS, from Euston or Pancras.

VIRGINIA WATER, from Waterloo or Pad-
dington.

WINDSOR, from Waterloo or Paddington.

Further information will be found in any of
the Metropolitan Tinu Tables, sold by all
stationers and at railway bookstalls.

STEAM BOATS.

All tickets are issued on the piers or
landing stages.

DOWN THE RIVER.

i. LOCAL STEAMERS of the London
Steamboat Company pass every ten
minutes between Chelsea and London
Bridge performing the entire journey
(five and a quarter miles) in fron* forty to
sixty minutes. Fares, id. to 4d. They
call at the following piers : Chelsea (Bat-
tersea Bridge), Cadogan (Albert Bridge),
Battersea Park Railway pier (Chelsea
Bridge), Pimlico, Nine Elms, Vauxhall,
Lambeth, Westminster, Charing Cross,
16

6. -CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY.

Waterloo, Temple, Blackfriars, St. Paul's,
London Bridge. At St. Paul's Pier, pas-
sengers, desirous of going to the Surrey
(Southern) side of London Bridge, change
to another steamer.

2. GREENWICH AND WOOLWICH,
('Woolwich Steam Packet Company).
Every half hour from 8.10 a.m. (8.40 in
winter), to dusk, from Westminster Bridge,
performing the journey, six and half miles,
in one hour to one hour and a half. Fare,
6d.

An express boat leaves Westminster at
intervals from 8.10 a.m. during summer,
calling at Charing Cross and London
Bridge, but not at intermediate piers.

The piers below London Bridge are :
Cherry Gardens, Tunnel, Limehouse,
Commercial Docks, Millwall, Greenwich,
Cubitt Town, Blackwall, Charlton, and
Woolwich.

3. GRAVESEND AND SHEERNESS, week
days and Sundays at 9, 10, 10.30, and
11.30 a.m., from Westminster Bridge, call-
ing half an hour later at London Bridge,
and at 3 p.m. from London Bridge (to
Gravesend only).

Extra boats for Gravesend only, leave
London Bridge at 9.10 a.m., and 3.30
p.m.

The last return boat leaves Sheerness
at 4.15, Gravesend at 7 p.m.

Distances from London Bridge : Green-
wich, 4^ miles : Woolwich, 9 ; Gravesend,
26% ; Southend, 43 ; Sheerness, 45 miles.

The journey to Gravesend occupies two
and a half hours, to Sheerness four and
a quarter to five hours. Fares to Graves-
end, is. or is. 4d. ; to Southend or Sheer-
ness, is. 8d. or 2s. 3d.

4. MARGATE AND RAMSGATE, daily j
during the summer months, at 10 a.m.,
from Fresh Wharf, below London Bridge.
Fares, 45, 6d.

UP THE RIVER.

5. KEW, weekdays and Sundays from
Whitsuntide to the end of September,
every half hour from 1 1 a.m. to 5 p.m.,
from Chelsea, calling at Wandsworth,
Putney (and Fulham), Hammersmith, '
Chiswick, Barnes, Mortlake, and Kew,
and performing the journey (13 miles), in
from forty minutes to one hour.

The steamers return every half hour
from noon to dusk.

6. RICHMOND AND HAMPTON COURT,
Sundays and Mondays, from May to
September, at 10 a.m., from the Old Swan
Pier, London Bridge, calling at Charing
Cross about 10.15, performing the journey
to Richmond in from one and three-quar-
ters to two and a half hours, that to Hamp-
ton Court in two and half to three and half
hours, according to the state of the tide.
Fare, is. 6d. Return, 2s. 6d.

Halting places above Kew : Isleworth,
Richmond, Twickenham, Teddington,
Kingston, Thames Ditton, and Hampton
Court.

Ocean Steamers.

Lines of regular steamers connect
London with the following British and
Foreign Ports :

Aberdeen, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Belfast
(via Plymouth), Bordeaux, Boulogne, Bremen,
Buenos Ayres, Calais, Christiania, Copen-
hagen, Cork, Constantinople, Dublin, Dundee,
Dunkirk, Edinburgh, Falmouth, Genoa, &c.,
Hamburg, Harlingen, Havre, Hull, Lisbon,
Liverpool, Marseilles, Newcastle, Odessa,
Oporto, Ostend, Plymouth, Portsmouth, Rio
de Janeiro, Rotterdam, St. Petersburg, Scar-
borough, Shields, Southampton, Stockton-on-
Tees, Sunderland, Yarmouth.

TRAMWAYS AND OMNIBUS.

On our General Plan of London all
those streets which are traversed by tram
cars or omnibuses are marked boldly.
Our readers will observe that the prin-
cipal nuclei of this traffic are Charing-
cross (Plan F 6), and the Bank (Plan
K 5), and next to these Piccadilly
Circus (Plan F6), Oxford Circus (Plan E 5),
King's Cross (Plan G 3), the Angel (Plan
H 2), London Bridge (Plan K 6), and the
Elephant and Castle (Plan H 8).

At either of these points omnibuses
for most parts of London can be obtained,
and a policeman will generally be close
at hand to give the information that may
be desired.

An enumeration of the many omnibus
and tramway lines (there are close upon
an hundred) would prove quite useless to
a stranger remaining but a few days in
London ; for even natives of London feel
embarrassed when they leave the usual
tract which takes them to and from their
1 8

G.-CONVEYANCE DIRECTORY.

business. We therefore limit ourselves to
the following :

1. The destination of an omnibus is
frequently painted upon it in large letters,
thus : BRIXTON.

2. On entering an omnibus name the
place where you wish to be put down to
the conductor, and pay some time before
you have reached it (the usual fare for
short distances is 2d., and even for the
longest, it hardly ever exceeds 6d.)

3. Never leave a tramcar before it has
stopped, and an omnibus only if you have
acquired the knack of doing so, and the
streets are not slippery.

4. Take your seat next to the driver.
He will be able to point out to you any
buildings of interest.

5. Property left -in an omnibus or car is
required to be taken to Scotland Yard
Police Station, where it should be en-
quired for.

COACHES.

The old coaching days have been made
to return by a company of gentlemen. No
more enjoyable and exhilarating mode of
seeing the environs of London can be
imagined than a ride on one of these
coaches, which travel at the rate of eight
miles an hour.

$&* Places should be booked in ad-
vance. A box-seat is charged 2s. 6d.
extra for each journey. Ttte coaches do
not run on Sundays.

The coaches start from HatchetCs
(White Horse Cellar), an old coaching
inn in Piccadilly, as follows :

WINDSOR, 10.45 a - m - in 2 hours 5 min ->
for 8s., returning at 3 p.m.

Virginia Water, all week days at 10 a.m.
(via Kew, Richmond, and Sunbury,) in 3 hours,
for 75. 6d.

tfS~ There is plenty of time for travellers
to walk from Virginia Water to Windsor, in
order to return thence to London by coach.
Places should be booked in advance.

Tuttbridge Wells (via Sevenoaks), at IO a.m.
in 4 hours, for us., returning at 3 p.m.

Brighton, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
Saturdays, at 10.45 a.m., hi 64- hours for I2s.,
return on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Dorking, at 10.30 a.m., in 2'| hours, for 53.,
returning at 4 p.m.

HACKNEY CARRIAGES.

There are two kinds four-wheeled cabs
and two-wheeled cabs, or " Hansoms, "named

thus after their inventor. The latter are far
preferable where comfort and speed are a
consideration.

The hiring is either by distance or by time,
as may be expressed on taking the cab.

Fares within a radius of four miles from
Charing Cross, 6d. a mile, but no fare to be
less than is. ; or 2s. ("'Hansoms" 2s. 6d.) an
hour, and 6d. (8d.) for every quarter of an
hour beyond the first hour.

If hired beyond the -four mile radius, is. a
mile or 2s. 6d. an hour.

If hired within the radius but discharged
beyond it. For each mile within the four-mile
radius, 6d. ; for each mile or portion of a mile
} beyond it, -is.

Extra Payments. For every package carried
I outside the cab, 2d. For each person beyond
j two, 6d. Keeping a cab waiting, 6d. (" Han-
som" 8d.) for every quarter of ari hour.

Miscellaneous. Drivers are required by law
to deliver to the hirer a ticket bearing his
number, &c., but this rule is scarcely ever ad-
hered to, and a demand for a ticket is generally
treated by '* ca"bby " as an insult.

No cabman is compelled to drive more than
six miles an hour. The fares in London are
| the same during day and night.
j In case of imposition you may order the
driver to take you to the nearest police station,
or you take his number and summon him.

Property left in cabs should be inquired
after at the police station in Scotland Yard
(Plan F 6) In case of its being recovered, the
driver is entitled to a gratuity at. the rate of
about 33. in the .

jgg Our plan being divided into quarter-
mile squares, will enable travellers roughly to
estimate the distances.

PRIVATE CARRIAGES.

Private carriages or flies may be pro-
cured at many hotels and at numerous
livery stables throughout London. They
are far preferable to cabs for sight-seeing.
The usual charge is 2 is. a day of eight
hours, or 53. for the first hour and 2s. 6d.
for every hour afterwards. The coachman
receives a gratuity in addition.

POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS.

POSTAGE INLAND. Letters, id. an
oz., i}4d. for 2 oz., and l / 2 &. for eVery
additional 2 oz. up to 12 oz. Letters
heavier than 12 oz. pay id. each oz. News-
papers, }4d. Book parcels, }4d. for 2 oz.
Post cards, >d.

POSTAGE, FOREIGN (Europe, United
States, and all other countries belonging
20

7. -MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS &c.

to the Postal Union). Letters %. oz. for
2}4d. Newspapers, 4 oz. for id. Book
packets, 2 oz. for id. Post cards, iXd.

POSTE RESTANTE. Letters, "to be
called for," may be addressed only to the
General Post Office, St. Martin's-le-grand
(Plan I 5) or to the Charing Cross Post
Office. Letters of this kind which are
addressed to other post offices, or by ini-
tials, or fictitious names, are at once
returned to the head office.

The Poste Restante is open between 9
and 5, and all persons applying for letters
must be prepared to give the necessary
particulars to the clerk on duty, and pass-
ports must be produced by subjects of
States where they are compulsory.

LETTERS FOR PASSENGERS ON BOARD
MAIL STEAMERS. -Letters for passengers
on board the Atlantic Steam Packets,
touching at Queenstown, or on board the
Mediterranean Packets, sailing from
Southampton, may be posted up to the
time at which ordinary registered letters
to go by the same packet are to be re-
ceived. They must be registered and
addressed to the Commander of the
packet.

Letters for passengers on board the
Canadian Packets calling at Londonderry,
should be addressed to the care of the
officer in charge of the mails.

MONEY ORDERS are issued on most
countries in Europe, on all British Colo-
nies, on the United States, c.

TIMES FOR POSTING. Letters for the
evening mails may be posted in pillar
boxes and receiving houses up to 5 or 5.30
p.m., at the eight District Offices, at the
Branch Offices in Lombard Street and

Charing Cross, and at the Chief Office,
St. Martin's-le-grand, up to 6 o'clock, at
the usual rate, and up to 7.15 on payment
of a " late fee."

TELEGRAMS.

The charge for telegrams throughput
the United Kingdom is is. for the first
twenty words, and 3d. for every additional
five words, the names and addresses not
being counted. They must be prepaid
by stamps.

The seven District Offices are open
daily from 8 a.m. to 1 1 p.m., the minor
Offices, as a rule, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. on
week days. The following offices are open
day and night throughout the year :

Central Telegraph Station, St. Martin's-
le-Grand.

Moorgate Street Buildings, City (Plan
15).

Paddington, Pancras, and Victoria
Stations.

West Strand (Plan F 6).

PARCELS' DELIVERY

Is attended to by several Companies,
who have receiving houses in the princi-
pal thoroughfares.

Parcels for foreign parts are forwarded
by the Continental Daily Parcels' Express,
33, Gracechurch Street, 34, Regent
Circus, 33, St. Paul's Churchyard, and
156, Leadenhall Street.

COMMISSIONAIRES.

They wear a distinctive uniform (green
tunic, and grey trousers), and can be
trusted. Most of them are old soldiers.
The charge for a message is 2d. for half a
mile, 3d. for a mile. In the City, Boy
messengers, likewise in uniform,, may be
secured sometimes.

7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, AUT COLLECTIONS
AND OTHER SIGHTS.

r^" WE advise the reader to mark with red
pencil those amongst the following institutions
which he desires to visit in preference, and to
affix a similar mark to them on the plan and
description.

Institutions which every visitor should see,
are distinguished by an asterisk (*).

In all those instances in which an art gallery,
&c. can be seen only by permission of the
21

owner, steps should be taken to obtain the
requisite authority immediately on reaching
London.

Scientific men will be courteously admitted
to any of the scientific collections mentioned
below on personal application.

None of the places mentioned below are
open on Sundays, except when expressly
stated.

7.-MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c.

ALEXANDRA PALACE, Muswell Hill.
Daily.

ANATOMICAL MUSEUMS, see Guy's,
King's College, St. Thomas's Hospitals,,
&c.

ANTIQUARIES, Museum of Society of,
Burlington House (Plan E 6), daily, 10 to
4 ; Saturday, 10 to 2. Closed in Septem-
ber. On application to Secretary.

AQUARIUM "(Royal) and Winter Gar-
den, Tothill-street, Westminster (Plan F 7)
See also Crystal Palace.

ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM, 18, Tufton-
street, Westminster (Plan 7). Daily,
10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10 to 6.30 ; Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday also 7 to 9.
Closed in August. Admission, 6d. Of
interest at most to architects and en-
gineers.

ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM (Museum |
of Building Appliances), 9, Conduit |
Street, Bond Street (Plan E 5). Pro- !
perty of the Architectural Society. Apply j
for permission.

ARMOURERS' HALL, 81, Coleman Street
(Plan I 5). Collection of ancient armour.
Apply to doorkeeper. Gratuity.

ARTS, Society of, 18, John Street,
Adelphi (Plan G 6). Paintings by Barry.
Daily, 10 to 4, by member's order or gra-
tuity.

BANK OF ENGLAND (Plan K 5).
Public business rooms x daily, 10 to 5.
Weighing rooms, ;c., only by order of a
Director.

BARBERS' HALL, Monkwell Street,
(Plan N 4). * Holbein's Henry VIII.
Daily, 12 to I. Gratuity.

BARCLAY AND PERKINS'S BREWERY,
Park Street, Borough (Plan I 6), daily, 9
to 5, on presentation of card at entrance.
Gratuity.

BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL (Saint),
Smithfield (Plan I 4). Anatomical
Museum, daily, 10 to 4, on application to
Secretary.

BAZAARS. Soho Bazaar, 4, Soho
Square (Plan F 5), most interesting.
Most favourable time 4 to 5 p.m.

BETHNAL GREEN MUSEUM (Plan
M 3), on same conditions as South Ken-
sington Museum, which see.

* BILLINGSGATE FISH-MARKET (Plan
K 6), at 5 in the morning.

BOTANICAL GARDENS, Kew. On

week days from I to sunset, on Sundays
from 2 to sunset. Free.

BOTANICAL GARDENS, Regents' Park,
(Plan D 3). Daily 7 to sunset, by mem-
ber's order, and on certain fete days on
payment.

* BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, Cleveland
Place, (Plan E 6). Collection of 350
paintings. The property of the Earl of
Ellesmere. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday,
and Friday, 10 to 4, by cards to be ob-
tained from Messrs. Smiths', 137, New
Bond Street, (Plan E 5).

* BRITISH MUSEUM, (Plan F 4).
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 10
to 4 (in December, January, and Feb-
urary), 10 to 5 (March, April, September,
October), 10 to 6 (May to August). Also
on Saturdays from 12 to the usual hour of
closing, and from 8th May to middle of
August till 8 o'clock in the evening.
During Easter, Whitsun, and Christmas
weeks the Museum is open daily. Closed
on the first seven days in January, May,
and September. The Reading Room is
open daily from 9 to 5, or 6, by Tickets
of admission to be obtained at the
Museum.

BUCKINGHAM PALACE, (Plan E 7).
By order of Lord Chamberlain, Stable
Yard, St. James's Palace, (Plan E 6).

CARPENTERS' HALL, 68, London Wall,
(Plan K 5). Paintings in distemper of
the time of Edward IV. Saturday after 2
best time. Gratuity.

CEMETERIES, open daily, 9 to 5 ; Sun-
days, i to 7. Kensal Green and Highgate
most deserving a visit.

CHELSEA HOSPITAL (Plan D 9), daily,
10 to 12.45, J 45 to 7- Gratuity.

CHRIST'S HOSPITAL (Plan I 5). Paint-
ings ; daily on application to secretary.
Boys at supper, Sundays during Lent.
Governor's order.

CHRISTY COLLECTION, 103, Victoria
Street (Plan F 7). Antiquities, gems,
&c. Fridays, 10 to 4 by ticket, issued
gratuitously at British Museum,

CHURCHES. Mostly dosed except
during divine service. (See p.p. 37-39.

CHARTiER HOUSE (Plan I 4). Apply
to lodge keeper. Gratuity.

CLUBS. Admission only by introduc-
tion of a member.

7.-MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c.

CITY MUSEUM AND LIBRARY (Plan
I 5), daily, 10 to 4 or 5. Free.

COAL EXCHANGE, 96 Lower Thames-
street (Plan K 6), daily. Market days,
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 12 to 2.
The Roman bath is only shown on the
three other days of the week, 10 to I, on
payment of a gratuity.

*COBHAM HALL, near Gravescnd. Valu-
able collection of paintings. Fridays, 1 1
to 4, by tickets issued at Caddel's library,
King-street, Gravesend, on payment of is.,
which is devoted to charitable purposes.

CORN EXCHANGE, Mark-lane (Plan
K 5), daily, n to 3 ; Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday, are the most busy days.

COVENT GARDEN MARKET (Plan G 5),
Saturdays ; early morning the best time.

^CRYSTAL PALACE, Sydenham. Daily.

CUSTOM HOUSE (Plan K 6), Long
Room, daily, 10 to 4.

DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY, daily,
except Fridays, 10 to 5.

ENTOMOLOGICAL MUSEUM, 12, Bedford-
row (Plan G 4), Mondays, 2 to 7. Apply
to secretary, Entomological Society.

^FOUNDLING HOSPITAL (Plan G 4),
Mondays, 10 to 4, and after morning ser-
vice on Sundays ; begin at n. A plate is
presented to visitors on leaving.

FISHMONGERS' HALL, London Bridge
(Plan K 6), daily, 10 to 4 ; Saturday, 10
to 2, on presentation of visiting card.

FOREIGN OFFICE (Plan F 6, 7), Fri-
days, 12 to 3 ; apply to hall-keeper.

^GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, Jermyn-street
(Plan E 6), Monday and Saturday, 10 to
10 ; Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday,
jo to 4 or 5 ; closed from loth August to
joth September.

GOLDSMITHS' HALL, Foster-lane (Plan
I 5). daily, 10 to 4 or 5 ; Saturdays, 10 to 2,
on written application. Gratuity.

GREENWICH HOSPITAL. Painted hall
and chapel, daily, 10 to 7 (during winter,
10 to 3), and Sundays after I p.m. Col-
lection of Ships' Models, daily, Friday and
Sunday excepted, 10 to 4.

*GROSVENOR HOUSE, Upper Grosvenor-
street (Plan D 5), Thursday, 2 to 5, May
to July, by permission of the Duke of
Westminster.

*GUILDHALL (Plan I 5), daily, 8 to 5 ;
museum, 10 to 4 or 5. Closed 6th to I2th
November.

GUY'S HOSPITAL (Plan K 6). Ana-
tomical museum, daily, 10 to 4, on appli-
cation to the secretary.

^HAMPTON COURT PALACE, daily, Fri-
day excepted, 10 to 6 ; Sunday, 2 to 6.

HERALDS' COLLEGE, Queen Victoria-
street (Plan I 5), daily, 10 to 4.

^HERTFORD HOUSE, Manchester-scuiare
(Plan D 5). Sir R. Wallace's collection
of paintings ; by permission of owner.

HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS,
South Kensington (Plan B 7), daily, 9 to
sunset. Admission is. ; Mondays, 6d.
On Sunday only by member's order. A
band on Saturday afternoons.

HOSPITALS. Medical men will be per-
mitted to inspect the hospitals on appli-
cation to the house surgeon.

HYDE PARK, Rotten-row, daily 12 to 2
and 3 to 7 being the best hours during the
season.

INDIA MUSEUM, South Kensington
(Plan B 7). Daily, 10 to 4. Admission
id., Wednesdays and Thursdays 6d.

JAMES' PALACE, ST. (Plan F 6). Sunday
service in chapel, 10, free ; between, 12 and
5.30, by permission of Lord Chamberlain.
Mounting guard, with band, daily (in-
cluding Sunday) at 12.45.

KENSINGTON GARDENS (Plan B 6),
5.30 to 6.30 p.m. in May and June. Band,
Tuesdays and Fridays, 4 to 7.

KENSINGTON MUSEUM. (See South
Kensington Museum.)

KEW GARDENS. Week days, 10 to sun-
set ; Sundays, 2 to sunset. Free.

KING'S COLLEGE, 120, Strand (Plan
G 5). Museum, daily, 10 to 4 ; Satur-
days, 10 to 2. Apply to hall-keeper.

KNOLE PARK, near Sevenoaks. Park
open to public, but the fine collection of
paintings shown by permission of owner.

LAMBETH PALACE, (Plan G 8). On
application to chaplain of Archbishop of
Canterbury. The library is open when
the Court of Arches sits there.

MISSIONARIES' MUSEUM, 8, Bloom-
field Street (Plan K 4). Daily, 10 to 4 ;
Saturday, 10 to 2.

MINT (Plan L 6). On application to
Deputy Master of Mint.

MANSION HOUSE (Plan K 5). Daily,
10 to 4, or 5. Gratuity.

MEAT MARKET, Smithfield (Plan H 4).
Daily, early in morning.
26

7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c.

MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL, 30,
Threadneedle Street (Plan K 5). Daily,
jo to 6 ; Saturday, 10 to 2. By order of
the Master, to be personally applied for
at Hall.

METROPOLITAN CATTLE Market (Plan
G i). Mondays, early.

* MONUMENT (Plan K 5). Daily,
Sundays cxcepted, 3d.

MUSEUM OF BUILDING Appliances.
(See Architectural Museum. See also
Anatomical, Antiquaries, British, City,
Entomological, Geological, India, Mis-
sionaries', Soane's, South Kensington,
Surgeons' Museums.)

* NATIONAL GALLERY (Plan F 6).
Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and
Saturday, 10 to 4, or 5. Closed in Oct.
Free.

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, South
Kensington (Plan B 7). Same as South
Kensington Musuem,but never after 6 p.m.

NEWGATE PRISON (Plan H-5). Tues-
day, Wednesday, and Friday, 1 1 to 3, by
order of Home Secretary, Lord Mayor,
or Magistrate. No admission during
sittings of Central Criminal Court.

PATENT OFFICE MUSEUM. Same as
South Kensington Museum.

PAINTERS' HALL, 9, Little Trinity
Lane (Plan I 5). Curious pictures.
Daily, 1 1 to 2. Gratuity.

PARLIAMENT. See Westminster Pa-
lace.

POST OFFICE, St. Martin's-le-Grand
(Plan I 5). Busiest time, Fridays, 5 to
6 p.m.

* PAUL'S, ST. (Plan I 5). 7.45 a.m. to
dusk, except Sundays. Daily service.

PRISONS, CONVICT, by permission of
Col. Du Cane, Surveyor-General, 44,
Parliament Street, S.W.

RECORD OFFICE, Chancery Lane
(Plan H 5). Daily, n to 4. Apply to
door-keeper.

ROYAL ACADEMY, Burlington House
(Plan E 6). Exhibition of paintings by
modern masters, May to July ; by old
masters, in winter. For diploma paint-
ings of Royal Academicians, apply to
Keeper.

ROYAL EXCHANGE (Plan K 5), closed
5 minutes to 4 p.m. Busiest days, Tues-
days and Fridays, 2 to 3 p.m.

ROYAL INSTITUTION, 21, Albemarle

Street (Plan E 6), museum, daily by mem-
ber's order only.

SOANE'S MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln's Inn
Fields (Plan G 5), Wednesday, Thursday
! and Friday, from April to June ; Wednes-
day in February, March, July, and Au-
gust, ii to 5. Apply to hall-keeper. No
gratuity.

*SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM (Plan
B 7), Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 10 to
10, free ; Wednesday, Thursday, Friday
10 to 4, 5 or 6, according to season, 6d.

STAFFORD HOUSE (Plan E 6), by per-
mission of Duke of Sutherland.

STOCK EXCHANGE (Plan K 5). Visitors
not admitted.

SURGEONS' MUSEUM, 40, Lincoln's Inn
Fields (Plan G 5), Monday, Tuesday,
Wednesday, and Thursday, 12 to 5 (closed
in September), by written order of a medi-
cal man, or on application.

TEMPLE CHURCH (Plan H 5), daily, 10
to 12, and I to 4. Gratuity. Service.

TIMES PRINTING OFFICE, Printing
House Square (Plan H 5), by application
to manager, enclosing address card, best
time, i p.m.

TOWER (Plan L 6),, daily, 10 to 4. Ad-
mission, 6d. Monday and Saturday, free.

UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, White-
hall (Plan F 6), daily, except Fridays, 1 1
to 5. By order of a member, or on appli-
tion to secretary.

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, Gower Street
(Plan F 3), Flaxman Museum, Saturday,
10 to 4, from May to August, on applica-
tion to gate-keeper.

^WESTMINSTER ABBEY (PlanF 7), daily,
9 to 6 (winter 4). Admission to chapels,
6cl. (Monday, 11 to 2.30, Free). Choral
service daily, 1 1 and 3.

^WESTMINSTER PALACE, or Houses of
Parliament (Plan F 7), Saturdays 10 to
4, free. During the recess, admission may
be obtained on other days (gratuity.) The
lobby, as well as the House of Lords,
when sitting as a Court of Appeal, are
open at all times. Admission to gallery
of House of Commons, by order of a
member.

WHITEHALL CHAPEL (Plan F 6),
during service, at n and 3, Sundays ; or
on application to chapel-keeper.

^WINDSOR CASTLE, Monday, Tuesday,
Thursday, and Friday, 1 1 to 4, by ticket
28

7. MUSEUMS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ART COLLECTIONS, &c.

issued at Colnaghi's, 14, Pall Mall, East,
or at the Lord Chamberlain's office, Stable
Yard, St. James's Palace, and at Windsor.

WILLIS'S ROOMS (Plan E 6), (Sir Joshua
Reynolds' paintings), King Street. Daily,
Gratuity.

WOOLWICH ARSENAL, Tuesday and
Thursday, 10 to 4 p.m. Foreigners must
procure an order through their ambas-
sador.

WOOLWICH REPOSITORY, daily, 10
to 5.

YORK COLUMN, Waterloo Place (Plan
F 6), May to September, 10 to 4 p.m., 6d.

^ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent's Park,
daily, 9 to sunset, is. Monday, 6d. On
Sundays, by member's order.

SUMMARY, ARRANGED ACCORDING TO

DAYS.

OPEN ox EVERY WEEK-DAY. Alexandra
Palace. Aquarium, Westminster. Architec-
tural Museums, 10 to 4. Anatomical Mu-
seum, 10 to 4. Armourers' Hall. Society
of Arts. Bank of England. Barber's Hall.
Barclay and Perkins's Brewery. Bazaars
(4 to 5> best time). Bethnal Green Museum.
Billingsgate Market, 5 in morning. Bo-
tanical Gardens, Kew, I to sunset. Botanical
Gardens, Regent's Park (by order only).
Carpenters' Hall. Cemeteries, 9 to 5.
Charter House. Chelsea Hospital, 10 to
12.45, 1-45 to 7- Christ's Hospital. City
Museum and Library, 10 to 4 or 5. Coal
Exchange and Roman Bath. Corn Exchange
II to 3. Crystal Palace. Custom House.
; Fishmongers' Hall. Goldsmiths' Hall.
Greenwich Hospital, 10 to 7 (Winter, 10 to 3)
' (Ships' models not shown on Fridays). Guild-
Shall. Horticultural Society's Gardens, 9 to
sunset. Hyde Park, from 12 to 2, from 3 to 7.
! India Museum, 10 to 4. St. James's
I Palace, mounting guard, 12.45. King's Col-.
I lege Museum. Missionaries' Museum. Man-
ision House. Meat Market, Srnithfield, early
morning. Monument. National Portrait
Gallery, loto 4, 5, or 6. Painters' Hall, u to

2. Patent Office Museum. St. Paul's.

South Kensington Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6,

Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 10 to 10.

Record Office, 11 to 5. Royal Academy
Exhibition. Temple Church, 10 to 4.
Times Office, I p.m. Tower, ro to 4.
Westminister Abbey, 9 to 6. Whitehall
Chapel. Willie's Rooms. Woolwich Repos-

itory, 10 to 5. York Column, 10 to 4.
Zoological Gardens, 9 to sunset.

ON ALL WEEK-DAYS, FRIDAY EXCEPTED.

Dulwich Gallery, 10 to 5. Geological
Museum, 10 to 4 or 5 (Monday and Saturday,
10 to 10). Ships' Models at Greenwich, IO
to 4. Hampton Court, 10 to 6. United
Service Museum, 1 1 to 5.

MONDAY. British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or
6. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2. Corn Exchange,
u to 3. Entomological Museum, 2 to 7-
Foundling Hospital, 10 to 4. Tattersall's
Horse Sale, 12 to 4. Metropolitan Cattle
Market, early. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or
5- Surgeons' Museum, 12 to 5. Windsor
Castle, II to 4. Police Court, Bow Street,
10 a.m.

TUESDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 to 4.
Covent Garden Market, 6 to 7 a.m. Ken-
sington. Gardens (band), 4 to 7. National
Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5. Royal Exchange,
12 to 3. Surgeons' Museum, 12 to 5. Windsor
Castle, II to 4. Woolwich Arsenal, 10 to 4.

WEDNESDAY. British Museum, 10 to 4, 5,
or 6. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2. Corn Ex-
change, II to 3. National Gallery, 10 to 4 or
5. Soane's Museum, n to 5. Surgeon's
Museum, 12 to 5.

THURSDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 104.
Covent Garden Market, 6 to 7 a.m. Gros-
venor House. Soane's Museum, 1 1 to 5
(April to June only). Surgeon's Museum,
12 to 5. Windsor Castle, II to 4.

FRIDAY. Bridgewater House, 10 to 4.
British Museum, 10 to 4, 5, or 6. Christy
Collection, 10 to 4. Coal Exchange, 12 to 2.
Cobham Hall, II to 4. Corn Exchange, II
to 3. Foreign Office, 12 to 3. Kensington
Gardens (band), 4 to 7. General Post Office,
5 to 6. Royal Exchange, 2 to 3. Soane's
Museum, n to 5 (April to June only). Wind-
sor Castle, II to 4.

SATURDAY. British Museum, 12 to 4, 5, 6,
or 8. Carpenters' Hall, after 2. Covent
Garden Market, early in morning. National
Gallery, 10 to 4 or 5. University College
(Flaxman Museum), 10 to 4. Westminster
Palace (Houses of Parliament), 10 to 4.
Whitechapel, or New Cut, in evening.

SUNDAY. Aquarium, Brighton. Botanical
Gardens, Kew, 2 to sunset. Cemeteries, I to
7- Foundling Hospital, n. Greenwich
Hospital, I to 7 (except Collection of Ships'
Models). Hampton Court Palace, 2 to 6.
Whitehall Chapel, n to 3. Regent's Park,
Victoria, or Battersea Park, band, 5 to 8 p.m.

8.-AMUSEMENTS.

THEATRES.

There are 43 theatres in London, and
few even Londoners have paid a visit to
every one of them. The stranger will be
limited, as a matter of course, to a few
visits, and we therefore only enumerate
those theatres which are deserving of his
attention. The programmes published in
the daily papers, and the names of the
dramatic authors or actors, may direct
the choice as far as the West End theatres
are concerned, but we advise the stranger
to pay also a flying visit to one or the other
of the people's houses enumerated below.

tig" Places may be secured at the box
office, between 10 and 5, on payment in some
instances of is. extra. It is advisable to
purchase the ticket several days in advance,
if there is a run upon a piece. Places in the
pit are never reserved, and those who come
earliest secure the best seats.

Full Dress is enforced only in the opera-
houses during the season, and even there
visitors to the amphitheatre and gallery
are admitted in ordinary walking costume.
In all other houses gentlemen may take
their great --coats, umbrellas, &c., even into
stalls or boxes.

Ladies are obliged to take off their
bonnets in the stalls, dress circles, and fre-
quently also in the upper boxes ; and as
the ladies' cloak rooms are generally most
inconvenient places, it is advisable to
come to the theatre in a cab, or to remove
the bonnet on entering trie vestibule.

Play Bills are sold in the theatre.
Opera Glasses are lent by the box-keepers
(is). Books of nearly all plays maybe pro-
cured from S. French, 89, Strand, W.C.

*ADELPHI THEATRE, 411, Strand (Plan G
5). Rebuilt 1857. Melodrama. Stalls 7s. ;
Pit 2s. 6.45 p.m.

*ALHAMLRA, Leicester Square (Plan F 5)
Best ballet in London. Originally intended
for a " Panoptican of Science and Art," then
used as a circus and music-hall, and now a
regular theatre. Stalls 6s. ; Pitas. 7. 30 p.m.

ASTLEY'S (Sanger's), Westminster Bridge
Road (Plan G 7). The oldest circus, estab-
lished in 1774 by Astley, burnt down in
1803 and 1841. Dress Circle 43. ; Pit is.
7 p.m.

*BRITAXNIA THEATRE, 115, Hoxton Street.
One of the largest peoples' theatres. Stage
Box 2s. 6.45.

CRITERION THEATRE, Regent Circus (Plan

F 6), an underground house, below Spiers
and Pond's Restaurant. Pit 2s. 8 p.m.

*COVENT GARDEN (Royal Italian Opera)
(Plan G 5). The first theatre on this spot
was built in 1733, but destroyed by fire in
1809. Kemble rebuilt the house, and raised
the charges of admission, which led to the
O.P. (old price) rows. In 1856, the theatre
was again burnt to the ground, but rebuilt in
the short space of seven months. It is now the
finest and most convenient theatre in London.
The two statues (" Comedy" and " Tragedy"), |
and the bas-reliefs, are by Flaxman. The
"Floral Hall," a glass palace, adjoins the
theatre on the south, and is used for concerts,
and as a promenade during the opera season.
An Italian Opera Company performs during
the season. Stalls 2 is. ; Pit 7s. ; Amphi-
theatre I os. 6d., 75. and 55, ; Gallery 2s. 6d.
Usual west-end prices during remainder of
year.

*DRURY LANE, Catherine Street, Covent
Garden (Plan G 5). This is the oldest
London play-house, originally established in
1663, thrice destroyed by fire, and the present
building opened in 1812. Mr. B. Wyatt was
the architect. Portico, with a statue of
Shakespeare, and colonnade are subsequent
additions. Within the vestibule a statue of
Edmund Kean, by Carew, and a bust of Balfe.
Fine Refreshment and Cloak Rooms. Stalls
7s. ; Pit 2s. 7 p.m.

DUKE'S THEATRE, 43, High Holbora
(Plan G 4). Stalls 7s. ; Pit 2s. Begins at 7.

GAIETY THEATRE, 345, Strand (Plan G 5),
7 p.m.

GLOBE THEATRE, Newcastle Street, Strand
(Plan G 5). Opened in 1868. Stalls 6s. 5 Pit
2s. 7.30 p.m.

HENGLER'S CIRCUS, 7, Argyle Street (Plan
E 5). Begins at 7.30.

*HAYMARKET THEATRE, 7, Haymarket
(Plan F 6). Opened in 1821 ; Nash, arcln-
tect. Stalls 73. ; Pit 2s. 7 p.m.

HER MAJESTY'S OPERA HOUSE (Plan F 6). ;
Originally built in 1705 by Vanburgh ; de- ;
stroyed by fire in 1 789, rebuilt by Novosielsky
and improved by Nash and Repton, 1816
20. In 1867 the interior was gutted in conse-
quence of a conflagration, but though restored,
the house has never again been opened as a
theatre.

LYCEUM, corner of Strand and Wellington
Street (Plan G 5). Opened in 1834; S.
Barley, architect. Witnessed the triumphs
of Madame Vestris. Stalls 75. ; Pit 2s. Be-
gins at 7-

*XATIONAL OPERA HOUSE, Thames Em-
bankment, near Westminster Bridge (Plan

8.-AMUSEMENTS.

F 6), the largest opera house of London, and
next to that of San Carlo in Naples, in the world.
The first stone was laid on 2md September,

1875, by Madame Titjens, and it is expected
that the theatre would be opened in May,

1876. Architect, F. Fowler.

OLYMPIC THEATRE, 6, Wych Street (Plan
G 5). Stalls 73. 6d. ; Pit 2s. Begins 7.15.

* PRINCE OF WALES'S THEATRE, 21, Tot-
tenham Street (Plan E 4). Fine Comedies.
Stalls I os. ; Pit 2s. 6d.

PRINCESS'S THEATRE, Oxford Street (Plan
E 5). Stalls 73. ; Pit 2s.

QUEEN'S THEATRE, 91, Long Acre (Plan
G 5). Occupies the site of John Hullah's
St. Martin's Hall, which was burnt down in
1867. Architect, C. J. Phipps. Stalls 7s. ;
Pit 2s. 7 p.m.

ST. JAMES'S THEATRE, King Street, St.
James's (Plan E 6). Stalls 6s. ; Pit 2s.

STANDARD . THEATRE, 204, Shoreditch
(Plan K 3). " Rebuilt in 1866; -holds 7000
spectators. A people's house. Stalls 35.
7 p.m.

STRAND THEATRE, 168, Strand (Plan 65).
Stalls 75. ; Pit 2s. 7.30 p.m.

* VICTORIA PALACE THEATRE, 131, "Water-
loo Road (Plan H 7), with immense gallery.
People's theatre. Stalls is.

VAUDEVILLE THEATRE, 404, Strand
(Plan G 5). Opened in 1870. Stalls 7s. ;

Pit2S.

*-' CONCERTS.

The principal CONCERT HALLS are :

Exeter Hall, Strand. Built 1831, by Deer-
ing ; Organ, by Walker. (Plan G 5.)

St. James's Hall, Regent's Quadrant and
Piccadilly. Decorated by Owen Jones.
(Plan E 6.)

St. George's Hall, Langham Place. Built
1867. (Plan 4.)

Willis's Rooms, King Street, St. James's
(Plan, E 6). Built 1765, by Robert Milne.
" Almack's Balls " were held here up to 1863,
when the intrusion of the vulgar caused them
to be given up.

Albert Hall, South Kensington (Plan, B 7).

Floral Hall, next to Covent Garden Theatre,
(Plan, G 5), page 32.

Alexandra and Crystal Palace.

Royal Aquarium, Westminster.

The celebrated Hanover Square Rooms have
been converted into a club.

Regularly recurring CONCERTS :

Philharmonic Society, established 1813.
Concerts in St. James's Hall.

New Philharmonic Society, established 1852
by Dr. Wylde, in St/James's Hall.

Sacred Harmonic Society, established 1832.

Oratorios in Exeter Hall. Conductor Sir
Michael Costa.

Wagner Society, established 1860. Concerts
in St. James's Hall. Dannreuther, conductor.

Monday and Saturday Popular Concerts, St.
James's Hall. Conductor, Sir Julius Benedict.
Performances by virtuosi.

Saturday Concerts at the Crystal Palace
(Manns, Conductor), and at the Alexandra
Palace (Weist Hill, Conductor).

Daily Concerts at the Aquarium, West-
minster. Arthur Sullivan, Director.

Ballad Concerts at St. James's Hall and
Albert Hall. The singers are paid by the
music publishers to sing the songs published
by them.

Promenade Concerts, in Covent Garden
Theatre, in autumn.

Moore and Burgess's Minstrels, in St.
James's Hall, daily.

Musical Masses in St. George's Cathedral,
(Plan H 7), and the Italian Church, Hatton
Garden (Plan H 4) on Sundays. See adver-
tisements in Times. A charge is made for seats.

Sunday Evenings for the People, at the South
Place Institute, Finsbury (Plan K 4), 7 p.rn.
Lecture and sacred music. x .

Choral Services in Westminster Abbey daily,
at 10 and 3, and in St. Paul's Cathedral, 10
and 4.

Service in Foundling Hospital, Sundays at 1 1
and 3.

OPEN AIR CONCERTS in the following
places :

St. James's Park, on week days, 6 to 8 p.m.
Band of Commissionaires (did not take place
in 1875.)

St. James's Palace, Parade, Sundays, 10.45.

Kensington Gardens, Tuesday and Friday,
4 to 7. Military Band. Fashionable prom-
enade.

Regenfs Park. Sundays, 5 p.m. (People's
Band). Thousands of listeners.

Battersea, Park. Monday, Wednesday,
Saturday and Sunday, 5 p.m.

Victoria Park.

Leicester Square, Saturday, 3 to 5-

Zoological Gardens i Saturday, 4 to 6. Mili-
tary Band.

Horticultural Gardens, Saturday afternoon.
Military Band.

MUSIC HALLS.

The programme of these will hardly
please a refined taste. In addition to
songs, there are mostly gymastics, dancing,
&c. Smoking and drinking are per-
mitted. There are about 30 of the:,3
music halls.

8. AMUSEMENTS.

EVANS'S, Coveat Garden (Plan G 5). This
is the oldest Music Room in London, and the
only place to hear a choir of boys sing some
excellent Glees, Madrigals, and Choruses.
Celebrated for suppers and baked potatoes, j
Gentlemen only can enter the body of the room,
but ladies are admitted to private boxes.

Oxford, 6, Oxford-st. ( Plan E 5 ). Admis. 6d.

London Pavilion, 4, Tichborne-street, top of
Haymarket (Plan F 5).

South London Palace, 92, Lond. -rd. ( PlanH;).

Royal Alhambra, 211, High-street, Shore-
ditch, (Plan K 4). Smoking and drinking
prohibited.

Great Central Hall, 36, Norton Folgate,
(Plan K 4), the old City of London Theatre.
A Temperance Hall. A visit to these two
latter would well repay the stranger.

ENTERTAINMENTS, EXHIBITIONS.

Agricultural Hall, Islington, (Plan H 2),
built by Peek, the large Hall, 190 feet long,
216 feet wide. Concerts, cattle, horse and dog-
shows, Equestrianism, Revival Meetings, &c.

Alexandra Palate, to the north of London,
fully described p. 23.

Aquarium and Winter Garden, West-
minster (Plan F 7), fully described p. 23.

Moore and Burgess's Minstrels, St. James's
Hall (lower room), (Plan E'6), every night at 8.
Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 3 and 8.
Admission is. to 55.

Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea, (Plan B 10).
Open-air dancing, ballet, equestrianism, fire-
works, capital dinners and suppers. Open
during day, for promenade. Admission is.
Omnibus from Charing Cross (" CHELSEA ") or
steamer.

* Crystal Palace, Sydenham, fully described,

Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly (Plan E 6). Ex-
terior in Egyptian, interior in Chinese style.
Maskelyne and Cooke's illusory entertainment
daily at 3 and 8. Admission is. to 5. W.
Morton, manager.

Erith Gardens, below Woolwich, accessible
by steamer or railway. Finely laid out. Ad-
mission 6d.

North Woolwich Garden ("Riverside"),
under the management of Mr. Holland, the
" People's Caterer," Accessible by rail from
Fenchurch Street, or by steamer. Admission 6d.

Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent Street
(Plan, 5). Entertainments of various kinds,
collection of models and machinery, &c.
Open 12 to 6 and 7 to 10. Admission is.

*Reed (Mr. and Mrs. German), drawing-
room entertainment at St. George's Hall,'
Portland Place (Plan 4). 8 p.m. Ad-'
mission is. to 53.

Rosherville Gardens, near Gravesend,
nicely situated in old quarries. Accessible by
steamer or railway.

* Surrey Gardens, 40, Penton Street, New-
ington Causeway (Plan II 9). Concerts,
ballets, fireworks, &c. Admission is.

*7ussaud's (Madame) Exhibition, Baker
Street (Plan D 4.) This interesting collection
of wax figures was first exhibited at the Palais
Royal, Paris, in 1772. In 1802 it was brought
to England, and has since been very much
enlarged. No person of celebrity or notoriety
will be missed. In one of the extra rooms
there are several relics of the great Napoleon,
including the carriage captured by the Prus-
sians after Waterloo, and the chamber of
horrors contains Samson's Guillotine, and the
effigies of celebrated murderers. Open from
10 to 10, (evening best time). Admission is. ;
extra rooms 6d.

MISCELLANEOUS AMUSEMENTS.

ARCHERY is practised by the " Royal
Toxopholite Society," Inner Circle, Regent's
Park ; at the Crystal Palace, &c.

ATHLETICS. The head quarters for
Athletic Sports are at Lillie Bridge, Brompton
(Plan beyond A 9), where there are also
Racket and Tennis Courts, Polo grounds, &c.

BOATING. On theThamesand the Lea (East
London), on the lakes of Hyde Park, Victoria
and St. James's Park ; at the Alexandra and
Crystal Palace ; and at the Wdsh Harp,
Hendon, in the north of London (im.N.W.
of A I.)

BICYCLING may be practised at the Alexan-
dra and Crystal Palaces, where bicycles are
on hire.

BILLIARDS, Gatli's, Railway Arches, Vil-
liers Street, Strand. Evans's, 82, Regent
Street. Bennett's, 315, Oxford Street.

BOWLING ALLEYS (American), 42, Kingman
Street, Covent Garden, and London Pavilion,
Tichborne Street, Haymarket.

CRICKET GROUNDS, Lords, (property of
the- Marylebone Club), St. John's Wood
Road (Plan B 3). Surrey, Kennington Oval
Plan G 9). Prince's, Hans Place (Plan
C 7). None of these are accessible to the
(general public, except on certain match days.
Cricket may, however, be witnessed in
Regent's Park, Batteisea Park, Victoiia Park,
&c. , where there are public cricket grounds of
large extent (Ask a park keeper whether
a match is going on, Saturday afternoon is
the best time).

DANCING,' Argyll Rooms, 7, Great Wind-
mill 'Street (Plan' F 5). Cleveland Dancing
Academy, 54, Cleveland Street (Plan, 4).

0. -MISCELLANEOUS ADDBESSE3 AND FIXTURES.

London Academy of Dancing, Jl, Mortimer
Street (Plan E 4).

I-.. FISHING. Welsh Harp, Hendon.
! GYMNASIUM. The best is the German
Gymnasium, 26, Pancras Road (Plan F 2).

PIGEON SHOOTING. At one time a fashion-
able amusement, carried on at Hurlingham
House, Brompton.

RACKET AND TENNIS COURTS exist in
connection with the Cricket Grounds named.

SKATING RINKS, Be/grave, 196, Ebury
Street (Plan D 8). Royal Avenue, 122,
King's Road, Chelsea (Plan C 8). South
Kensington, close to Gloucester Gate and
Kensington Station (Plan A 7). Lansliam,

opposite the Langham Hotel (Plan E 4).
Holborn, in the former Holborn Amphitheatre
(Plan G 4), &c. Alexandra and Crystal
Palace. Aquarium, Westminster.

SWIMMING Bathing is permitted in the
Serpentine, Hyde Park, and in Victoria Park,
before 8 in the morning, and between 7 and 8
in the evening. There are likewise numerous
covered Swimming Baths, including a
" Floating Bath " on the Thames, above
Charing Cross Railway Bridge.

YACHTING is promoted by the Royal
Thames Yacht Club, of Albermarle Street,
W., and other clubs.

9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES.

PLACES OF WORSHIP.

' Only those Churches have been inserted
in this list which are remarkable for their
architecture, or on account of the manner
of performing the service. Popular
preachers, and musical performances in
the Catholic Churches, are generally
advertised in Saturday's papers.

CHURCH OF ENGLAND.

: *ALL SAINTS, Margaret-street, Cavendish-
square (Plan E 5), sumptuous interior ; Ritu-
alistic. Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10.30, 11.45 a.m.,
3.30, 4 and 7 p.m. Week days 7, 7.45,
8-15 a.m. and 5 p.m.

Chapels Royal, see Savoy, St. James's and
Whitehall.

Foundling Hospital, (Plan G 4), II and 3;
(Musical services.)

Lincoln's Inn Chapel, (Plan G 5), (stained
glass). Sunday, II and 3, week day 8 a.m.

St. Alban's, Brooke-street, Holborn (Plan
H 4.) Highly decorated in interior; Ritua-
listic. Sunday, 7, 8, 9, 10.15, 1 1 a.m., 3 and
5 p.m. Week days 7, 8, 8.30 a.m. and 8 p.m.

*St. Bartholomew-the-Great, West Smith-
field (Plan I 4). Norman and early English
Architecture. Sunday, II a.m, 6.30 p.m.

St. Brides, Fleet-street (Plan II 5). (By
Wren). Sunday, 11, 3.30 and 6.30.

St. George's, Hanover-square, (stained glass
of i6th cent., fashionable marriages). Sunday,
II, 4, 7-

St. Giles's, Cripplegate, Aldersgate-street
(Plan I 4). Milton's tomb; portion of old
Roman Wall in Cemetery, Sunday, u. 3.30
and 7.

St. James's, Chapel Royal, St. James's
Palace, 10. a.m. free, 12 and 5.30 by ticket
issued by Lord Chamberlain, not later than
2 p.m. on Saturday.

St. James's, Piccadilly (Plan E 6), by Wren.
Sunday, 11, 3 and 7.

St. Mar tin' s-in-the- Fields, Trafalgar-square,
(Hawks Moor, Architect.) Sunday, n, 3 and
7. Weekdays 8a.m.

St. Michael's, Cornhill (Plan K 5). Interior
decorated by Sir G. Scott. Sunday, 1 1 and
6.30.

St. Paul's, Covent Garden (Plan G 5).
Inigo Jones, Architect. Sunday, 1 1 and 7.

St. Peter ad Vincula, in the Tower of
London (Plan L 6). Sunday, n and 3.

*St. Saviour's, Southwark (Plan I 6).
(Early English Architecture). Sunday, n, 3,
6.30.

*ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Sunday, 10.30,
3- J 5> 7 J week-days, 8, 10 and 4.

St. Stephen's, Walbrook (Plan I 5). Ele-
gant interior by Wren. Sunday, 1 1 and 6.30.

Savoy, Chapel Royal (Plan G 5), perpen-
dicular of Henry the VII's time. Sunday, 8,
10.15, "-30i 4 and 7.

* Temple Church, (Plan H 5.) Transition
Norman. Sunday, 1 1 and 3.

* Westminster Abbey, (Plan F 7). Sunday
and week days, 10 and 3, Choral services.
Attend when Dean Stanley preaches.

OTHER PROTESTANT DENOMINATIONS.

BAPTISTS. Metropolitan Tabernacle, (Plan
H 8). Rev. Mr. Spurgeon. Sunday, n and
6.30. (Holds 6, 500 auditors.)

9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES.

FREE CHURCH. 14, Newman-street, Ox-
ford-street (Plan F 4). Dr. Perfitt. Sunday,
11,7 and 8. Admission 3d.

INDEPENDENT. City Temple, Holborn
Viaduct (Plan H 4). Rev. Dr. Parker.
Sunday, II and 7.

PRESBYTERIAN, Scotch. Regent-square,
Grays Inn Road (Plan G. 3). Sunday, 11
and 7.

SCOTCH, NATIONAL. Crown Court, Little
Russell-street (Plan F 4). Rev. Dr. John
Gumming. Sunday, n and 6.30.

SURREY CHAPEL, (Calvinist Methodists).
196, Blackfriars-road (Plan II 6). Rev.
Newman Hall. Sunday, 8. 9.45, II, 3, 6.30
and 8.

UNlTARiAT^-South Place, Finsbury (Plan
K.4.) Moncure Comvay. Sunday, 1 1 and 5.

ROMAN CATHOLIC.

Sf. George's Cathedral, Westminster Bridge-
road (Plan H 7). A. W. Pugin, architect.
Sunday, 6.30, 7.30, 8.30, 9.30, II, 3 and 6.30.

Oratory, Brompton-road (Plan B 7). Sun-
day, 6.30, n, 3.30 and 7. Weekdays, 6.30
to 10,' and at 8 p.m.

St. Mary's, Moorfields, East -street, Fins-
bury-square (Plan K 4). Sunday, 7, 8, 9,
10, n, 3 and 7. . Weekdays, 7.30, 8, 10
and 8. ^ - -,,.-, ; v. -

^ SYNAGOGUES.

GREAT SYNAGOGUE, St. James's Place,
Aldersgate-street (Plan I 4). Daily, 7 a.m.
and sunset.

GERMAN, New Broad-street (Plan K 4).
Saturday, 7 a.m.

WEST LONDON, 34, Upper Berkeley-street,
Portman-square (Plan C 5). Saturday,
1 1. 30 a.m., Friday sunset.

.'~ FOREIGN,

Danish (Lutheran), King-street, Poplar
(Plan P 6). Sunday, 10.30 a.m.

Dutch (Reformed), Austin Friars (Plan
K 5). Built I3th Century. Sunday n a.m.

French (Protestant), Bloomsbury -street
(Plan F 5). Sunday, n and 3.30.

St. Martin' s-le- Grand. (Plan I 5), Sunday,
II and 6.30.

German (Protestant) Royal Chapel, Marl-
borough-court (Plan E 6). Sunday, 11.30.

St. George's, Little Alie-street, Whitechapel
(Plan L 5). Sunday, n and 6.30.

St. Mary, Savoy-st. (Plan G 5). Sunday,
11.30 and 6.30.

Greek, 81, London Wall (Plan K 5). Sun-
day, ii a.m.

Italian (Roman Catholic), 28, Hatton Wall,
Holborn (Plan H 4). Sunday, 7.30, 9, 10,

11.15, 2 3. 4. and 7- Week-days, 7, 9, 10
a.m. and 8 p.m. Music,
. Russian (Greek Catholic), 32, Welbeck-st.
Plan D 4). Sunday, 1 1 a.m.

Spanish (Roman Catholic), Spanish-place,
Manchester-square (Plan D 5). Sunday, 7,
8, 9, 10, II, 3.30, 4 and 7. Weekdays,
7, 8 and 10.

Swedish (Lutheran), Princes-square, St.
George 's-street, Shadwell (Plan M 6). Sun-
day, ii a.m.

Swiss (Protestant, French), 26, Endell^st.,
Long Acre (Plan F 5). Sunday, 11-30.

SOCIETIES.

We have included in the following list
only those Societies which may be sup-
posed to interest strangers, or which are!
characteristic of London. We need]
hardly say that a most hearty welcome >
will be extended by the authorities of
these, and of all other societies, to every '
stranger who takes a practical interest in
their objects, and that every*facility will!
be offered for inspecting the institutions
| connected with them.

, v ...... . ; LEARNED SOCIETIES.

Anthropological Institute, 4, St. Martift's-
place, Trafalgar-square, W.C.

Architectural Association, 9, Conduit-street,
Bond-street., W.

British Archaeological Society, 32, Sack-
ville-street, W.

British Association for the advancement of
Science, 22, Albemarle-street, Piccadilly, W.

Chemical Society, Burlington House, Picca-
dilly, W.

Entomological Society, 1 1, Chandos-street,
Cavendish-square, W., Monday, 2 till 7.

Gaelic Society of London, 14, Bedfbrd-
| row, W.C.

Geological Society, Burlington House, Pic-
cadilly, W.

Institution of Civil Engineers, 25, Great
George-street, Westminster, S.W.

Institution of Naval Architects, 20, John-
street, Adelphi, W.C.

Linnean Society, Burlington House, Picca-
dilly, W.

London Mathematical Society, 22, Albe-
marle-street, W.

Meteorological Society, 30, Great George-
street, S.W.

National Association for the promotion of
Social Science, I, Adam-street, Adelphi,.
W.C.

Pathological Society, 53, Berner's-street,W,

9MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES.

Royal Agricultural Society, 12, Hanover- ,
square, W.

Royal Archaeological Institute of Great i
Britain and Ireland, 1 6, New Burlington- ;
street, W.

Royal Asiatic Society, 22, Albemarle- j
street, W.

Royal Astronomical Society, Burlington j
House, W.

Royal Botanic Society, Inner Circle, Re-
gent's-park, N.W.

Royal Geographical Society, I, Saville-row,
Burlington-gardens, W.

Royal Institute of British Architects, 9,
Conduit-street, Bond-street, W.

Royal Institution, 21, Albemarle-street, W.

Royal Society, Burlington House, Picca- j
dilly, W.

Society of Antiquaries of London, Burling- j
ton House, Piccadilly, W.

Society of Arts, 18, John-street,' Adelphi,
W.C.

Statistical Society, Somerset House-terrace,
King's College, Strand, W.C.

Zoological Society, II, Hanover-square and
Regent's -park.

EDUCATIONAL.

British and Foreign School Society (1808),
Borough Road, Income ,23,000.

Home and Colonial School Society (1836),
Gray's Inn-road, .10,000.

National Society for Promoting Education
of the Poor in the Principles of the Estab-
lished Church (1811), Sanctuary, Westminster,
^30,000.

Ragged School Union (1841), I, Exeter
Hall, Strand.

Sunday School Union (1803), 56, Old
Bailey, ^"36,000.

HUMANE.

Anti-Slavery Society (1839), 27, New Broad-
street, City.

Associate Institute for Improving and En-
forcing the Laws for the Protection of Women
(1844), 33, Strand.

Cabmen's Shelter Fund (i873),Marlborough-
street.

Dog's Home (1861), Lower Wandsworth-
road.

Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle
Trough Association (1859), 4, Victoria-street,
Westminster.

Royal Humane Society (1774), 4, Trafalgar-
square.

Royal National Lifeboat Institution (1824),
14, John-street, Adelphi, ,34.000.

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals (1824), 105, Jermyn-street, ,5,000.

Royal Society for the Protection of Life
from Fire (1836), 66, Ludgate-hill.

Society for Promoting the Employment of
Women (1859), 22, Lerner's-street, Oxford-
street.

BENEVOLENT AND CHARITABLE.

British Ladies' Association for promoting
the reformation of female prisoners, (1821),
Elizabeth Fry Refuge, Mare-street, Hackney.

London Female Preventive and Reformatory
Institution, (1857), 200, Euston Road.

Philanthropic Society for the reformation of
Criminal Boys, (1788), Farm-school, Redhiil,
Surrey.

Governess's Benevolent Institution (1843),
32, Sackville-street.

Metropolitan Association for improving thi
dwellings of the Industrious Classes (1844), S,
Finsbury Circus.

Ragged School Shoeblack Brigade (^i), I,
Exeter Hall.

Society for organising Charitable Relief '(1869),
15, Buckingham-street, Strand.

London Society for Teaching the Blind to Read
(1839), Upper Avenue-road.

British and Foreign Sailors' Society (i8iS),
Mercer-street, City. ^5,600. . ....

MISSIONARY, BIBLE, AND TRACT.

Baptist Missionary Society, 19, Castle-street,
Holborn. ,40,000.

British and Foreign Bible Society (1804),
9, Queen Victoria-street. ,220,000.

Church Missionary Society (\7<}6}, Salisbury-
square, Fleet-street.

Society for the Propagation of the Gospel,
(1701), 19, Delahay-street, Westminster.
135,000.

London City Mission, (1835), Bridewell
Place, Blackfriars. ^46,000.

London Missionary Society (1795), 14,
Bloomfield-street, Finsbury. i 12,000.

Religious Tract Society (1799), 56, Pater-
noster Row. ji45,ooo.

Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge
(1698), 67, Lincoln's Inn Fields. ^"36,000.

ART GALLERIES.

Admission to these is granted only or>
payment of is. The pictures are gener-
ally by modern masters, and on sale.

Btirlington Gallery (Elijah Walton's Alpine
Pictures), 191, Piccadilly.

British Artists, Society of, 6, Suffolk-street
Pall Mall.

Danish Artists, 142, New Bond-street.

Dore Gallery, 35, New Bond-street.

Dudley Gallery, Egyptian Hall.

Female Artists, Society of, 48, Pall MalL
42

9. MISCELLANEOUS ADDRESSES AND FIXTURES.

Flemish Gallery, 35, King-street, Coven
Garden (on presentation of card.)

French Artists, 120, Pall Mall.

French Artists, Society of, 1 68, New Bond-
street.

Munich Gallery, 48, Great Marlborough-
street, Regent-street.

-Vhc' British Institution, 39, Old Bond-street.

Painters in Water Colours, Institution of,
53, Pall Mall.

Painters in IVater Colours, Society of, fa,
Pall Mall East.

READING ROOMS AND LIBRARIES.

American Exchange and Reading
Rooms (R. C. M. Bowles, Manager), 449,
Strand. Monthly subscriptions, 43. List
of Americans in London, General Agency.

Deacon's, 154, Leadenhall Street, City.

Lloyd's, Royal Exchange (only for sub-
scribers).

Lombard News Room, 39, Lombard
street, City.

News Rooms, 83, Lower Thames Street,
City.

Newspapers and Magazines are likewise
to be found at numerous Coffee Houses.
Times filed at Peel's Coffee House, 177,
Fleet Street.

Amongst the PUBLIC LIBRARIES, that
of the British Museum occupies the first
rank. There are also :

Library of the Corporation of London,
Guildhall. Open daily, 105.

Library of Commissioners of Patents, 25,
Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane.
Daily, free, 105.

Art and Educational Library, in South
Kensington Museum.

Lambeth Library (Lambeth Palace), and
Zion College (London Wall), on application
to Librarian.

BATHS.

Argyll Baths (u<arm ), IO, Argyll-street,
I'.cgent-street, and New Broad-street, City.

Bloomsbury, in Endell-street, Long Acre.

Floating Baths, Charing Cross Railway
Bridge.

St. George's, 88, Buckingham Palace-road.

St. Martin's, Orange-street, Lcicester-sq.

Turkish, 1 19, Buckingham Palace-road ;
76, Jermyn-street ; 22, Basinghall-street, City;
33$c, Strand.

Campion's (Medicated and Vapour), 155,
Sloane-street,

MONEY CHANGERS.

Hands, West Lodge, Charing Cross Railway
Station.

Baum, 37, Haymarket.
Venables, 30, Royal Exchange.
FOREIGN AMBASSADORS, MINISTERS, AND

CONSULS IN LONDON.

' America (United States of), Min. Plen., 5,
Westminster Chambers, Victoria-street. Cons.
53n, Old Broad-street, City,

Argentine Republic, Min. Plen., 103, Glou-
cester Place, Portman-square. Cons., 6, Great
Winchester-street, City.

Austria ami Hungary, A>uh., l8, Belgrave-
square. Cons., 29, St. bwithin's Lane,
City.

Belgium, Min. Plen., 36, Grosvenor-gardens.
Con., n, Bury-court, St. Mary Axe.

Bolivia, Cons., 12, Great Winchester-street.
Brazil, Min. Plen., 32, Grosvenor-gardens.
Cons., 6, Great Winchester-street.
Chili, Cons., Gresham House, City.
Columbia, Cons., 3, St. Helen's-placc, City.
Costa Rica, Con?,., 4, Lime-street, City.
Denmark, Min. Plen., 62, Wimpole-street,
Cavendish-square. Cons., 42, Great Tower-
street.

Ecuador, Cons., 59, Palmerston Buildings,
Old Broad-street.

France, Amb., Albert Gate, Hyde Park.
38, Finsbury-Circus.

German Empire, Min. Plen., 9, Carlton
House Terrace. Cons., 5, Bloomfield-street,
London Wall:

Greece, Min. Plen., 1 8, Margaret-street, W.
Cons., 25, Old Broad-street.

Gitatemata, Min. Plen., 21, Bedford -square.
Cons., 22, Great Winchester-street.
Honduras, Cons., nS, Leadenhall -street, City.
Italy, Amb., 25, Grosvenor-street. Cons.,
31, Old Jewry, City.

Japan, Min. Plen., 9, Kensington Park.
Gardens.

Liberia, Cons., 18, Pinner's Hall, Old
! Broad-street.

Mexico, Cons., 4, Adam's-court, Old Bro id-
street.

Netherlands, Min. Plen., 40, Grosvenor-gar-
dens Cons.,'], Skinner's-place, Sise-lane, City.
Nicaragua, Cons., 3, St. Helen's-place.
Persia, Min. Plen., 80, Holland Park.
Cons., 51, Portland-place.

Peru, Min. Plen., 4, Albert Mansions,
Victoria-street. Cons., 18, Bedford-square.

Portugal, Min. Plen., 12, Gloucester-place,
Portman-square. Cons., 10, St. Mary Axe.

Russia, Amb., Cheshnm House, Belgrave-
square. Cons., 17, Great Winchester-street

iO.-HISTOmCAL SKETCH.

Salvador, Min. PL'ii., 21, Bedford-square.
Cans., 3, St. Helen's-place.

San Domingo, Cons., 1 8, Coleman-street.

Spain, Min. Plen., 15, St. George's-place,
Hyde-park. Cons., 21, Billiter-street.

Sweden and Norway, Min. Plen., 2, Great
Cumberland-place. Cons., 2, Alderman's-
walk, New Broad-street.

Switzerland, Cons., 7, Great Winchester-
street buildings.

Turkey, Amb., I, Bryanston-square. Cons. t
Ethelburga-house, City.

Urugiiary, Cons.,-$, Spring-gardens, Charing,
cross.

Venezuela, Cons., 25, Moorgate-street.

A GENERAL, DESCRIPTION OF LONDON".

10. HISTORICAL SKETCH.

THE foundation of London is involved
in obscurity, for the statement of Geoffrey
of Monmouth, that it was founded by
Brutus, a descendant of ^Eneas, King of
Troy, belongs as much to the domain of
fable as the existence of a King Lud,
who is credited with having surrounded
the town with walls. Cassar, in his Com-
mentaries, does not mention London at
all, but at the time of the second Roman
invasion, about 43 A.D., it was already a
town of some importance, and Tacitus
describes it as a populous place, having
much trade. The revolted Britons, under
Queen Boadicea, destroyed the town, but
it rose again from its ashes in greater
magnificence than before. Roman Lon-
don, after all, was but a small place, if we
compare it with the present metropol's.
It occupied the space bounded by the
Tower, Cheapside, Ludgate, and the
Thames. The modern Watling Street
was probably the principal street of the
ancient city, and a Milliarium (milestone),
from which the distances along the four
great Roman roads leading into the pro-
vinces were measured, may still be seen
in the wall of St. Swithin's Church,
opposite the Cannon Street railway
station. The modern Artillery Ground,
near Finsbury Square, occupies the site of
the ancient Campus Martius, and remains
of the Roman walls exist in the church-
yard of St. Giles, Cripplegate.

The Saxons made London, which they
called Lundenburg, the capital of Essex,
and Beda, the chronicle-writer, speaks of
it as a place of much commerce. The
first bishop was installed in 610 by St.

Augustine, the so-called Apostle of the
Anglo-Saxons, and the foundations of St.
Paul's and of Westminster Abbey were
laid almost simultaneously.

During the Danish invasion, London
suffered much. The Danes burnt the
town, but Alfred the Great, in 884, rebuilt
it and surrounded it with walls ; and
about ten years afterwards, when these
predatory Northmen had again come up
the Thames, wintering with their ships in
the River Lea, the Londoners sallied
forth and forced them to retire. Sub-
sequently, however, on the accession of
Canute, the Danes came to England as
peaceful settlers. When William of
Normandy had defeated the last Saxon
king, Harold, at Hastings, the citizens of
London closed their gates against the
Conqueror, but they yielded to the per-
suasion of the clergy, and their submission
was rewarded, in 1067, by a confirmation
of their ancient privileges, though Wil-
liam, who dreaded the turbulent spirit of
the citizens, built the tower at once a
fortress and a Royal residence to over-
awe them.

Under William's successors, the citizens
of London frequently suffered from the
arbitrary exactions of the kings ; but forced
loans levied upon them now and then led
to the grant of new privileges. One of the
most important of these was that of
choosing their chief magistrate, who, up
to 1215 had been appointed by the king.
The history of London during the Middle
Ages, and up to the accession of Queen
Elizabeth, is full of turmoil and of visita-
tions, such as, in our more enlightened.
46

10.-HISTOBICAL SKETCH.

times, have become almost impossible.
The foreign merchants who -had settled in
England, and monopolised almost the
whole of the foreign trade, were exposed
on several occasions to the violence of the
mob. The privilege of exporting or im-
porting merchandise, on payment of a
duty of one per cent, only, which Henry
III. had granted to the Hanse merchants,
in return for the assistance which they
had rendered him against the French,
led to one of these ridings, and all
foreign merchants were ordered to
leave the country in 1285, but recalled
soon afterwards. Another riot took
place on "Evil May Day," 1517, and
it is a remarkable fact that at that time
London owned but 5 vessels measuring
over 1 20 tons, nearly the whole of the foreign
trade having been carried on in foreign
vessels ! The Jews were likewise objects
of hatred, as was indeed the case all over
Christendom. They had first come to
England in the 8th century, were favoured
by William the Conqueror, and soon ac-
quired considerable wealth. They first
roused the animosity of the populace by
penetrating into Westminster Abbey
during the coronation of Richard I. in
1189, when many amongst them fell
victims to popular fury. They suffered
again in 1214, when their houses were
plundered by the Barons, on their entry
into London after having forced the king
to sign the Magna Charta. In 1291 the
Jews were expelled the country, and they
were permitted to return only in 1642,
when the learned Menasseh Ben Israel,
of Amsterdam, offered to pay ,50,000 if
St. Paul's Cathedral and the Bodleian
Library were ceded to them, an offer re-
jected by Parliament as not being suffi-
ciently liberal. Dissatisfaction with the
administration of the Government led to
several riots, amongst which that stirred
up by William Fitz-Osbert, in 1196, was
one of the most remarkable. In 1380
Wat Tyler, at the head of 100.000 re-
bellious peasants entered the town. The
Lord Mayor of that time slew him during
an interview with the king, a deed com-
memorated by the dagger in the City
arms. Seventy years later, Jack Cade, at
the head of a large number of mal-
contented Kentish men, occupied the

town, but his followers dispersed when
promises of pardon, which it was never
intended to adhere to, were held out to
them, and his retreat being discovered,
he was killed. The first execution in
London for conscience sake took place in
1401, when a Wicklirfite was burnt at the
instigation of the clergy. Henry VIII.
killed Protestants and Catholics indis-
criminately, whilst Queen Mary's name
is associated with the disgraceful burnings
of Protestants on Smithfield. A famine
visited London in 1314-17, and the plague
swept off many of its inhabitants, par-
ticularly in 1349 and in 1525, (Still
Christmas). London, however, increased
in population, and the number of its in-
habitants towards the close of the i6th
century was estimated at 1 50,000, amongst
whom were no less than 6,500 foreigners.
The London of that time, that is of the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, was neverthe-
less but of small extent, if we compare
it with the present gigantic proportions
of the British Metropolis. Old London
Bridge, the only bridge then in existence,
connected the city with Southwark.
Spitalfields and Moorfields were still open
fields, but the space between the Strand
and Holborn had partly been built over,
as far as the Church of St. Giles and
St. Martin's Lane. The Strand was oc-
cupied by many houses of the nobility,
whose gardens extended to the banks
of the Thames. On the southern side of
the river there were as yet but few houses,
and Lambeth Palace stood almost by
itself. On Bankside there were bull and
bear gardens, and other places of amuse-
ment. Islington, St. Pancras, Padding-
ton, Tyburn, and other localities which
'have long ago become merged in the
great metropolis, were still rural villages,
separated from it by fields. London was,
therefore, still a comparatively small town,
but its growth had been so rapid as to
excite the fears of the authorities, and
the erection of new houses was fenced
round with difficulties. But nothing could
stop the progress of what was destined
to become the most populous city the
world had ever seen, in spite of plagues
(as in 1665), and civil disturbances,
which occasionally played havoc amongst
its population. The number of its in-
48

lO.-HISTORICAL SKETCH.

habitants increased rapidly. In 1625 there
were 285,000 ; in 1682, 670,000 ; in 1801,
864,845 ; in 1821, 1,225,694 ; in 1841,
1,870,727 ; and in 1871, 3,254,260. The
great fire in 1666, which destroyed 13,200
houses, offered one of those rare oppor-
tunities for repairing the errors of the
past, and of thoroughly improving the
appearance of a town, but Sir Christopher
Wren's fine scheme of re-building London
was rejected, and the city rose from her
ashes with her streets narrow and incon-
venient as of yore. The more modern
parts of the town, however, may boast of
many fine squares and straight streets, as
witness Lincoln's-inn-fields, built 1603-25;
Covent Garden Market, built 1630-42 ;
Soho and Leicester Squares, built in the
time of Charles II. ; Hanover and Grosr
venor Squares, which arose between 1720
and 1830, and Belgrave Square, which
was laid out between 1826 and 1853.
The most important improvements of the
city completed during the reign of Queen
Victoria are the Thames Embankment
and the Main Drainage Works.

EVENTS CONNECTED WITH THE HISTORY OF
LONDON ARRANGED CHRONOLOGICALLY.

1068. William the Conqueror grants the
first charter to the City of London.

1078. The Tower built by William the
Conqueror.

1189. Massacre of the Jews at the Corona-
tion of Richard I.

1190. The chief magistrate of the City first
called "Mayor." and'this office filled by Henry
Fitzalwyn for 20 years, , - /

1196. William Fitz-Osbert, who had excited
the populace to a riot, on account of an unfair
levy of a tax, is executed.

1206. The Emperor Otho of Germany
entertained by the citizens.

1209. Old London Bridge, the first etone
bridge over the Thames, opened.

1215. The citizens privileged to choose
their chief magistrate. y

1236. First waterworks, conveying the
water from Tyburn brook into the City.

1245-1522. Westminster Abbey built.

1 258, Twenty thousand persons carried off
by a famine.

1264. Five hundred Jews murdered and
the r synagogue and houses destroyed by the
mob.

1278. 280 Jews of both sexes executed in
London for " clipping coin."

1305. William Wallace hanged and quar-
tered in Smithfield.

1306. Coal first burnt in London.
1314-17. Great famine, succeeded by a

" grievous mortalitie. "

1326. The citizens rise in favour of the
Queen of Edward II., they murder the bishop
of Exeter and the Chancellor, and occupy the
Tower.

1349. The Black Death carried off nine-
tenths of the population ; 50,000 persons were
buried on the site of the present Charter-house.

1380. Wat Tyler, the rebel, slain by the
Mayor, Sir W. Walworth, in Smithfield.

1401. The first Wickliffite (Lollard) burnt
for heresy at the instigation, of the clergy.

1407. The " Sweating Sickness" kills
30,000 persons.

1415. The streets of the City for the first
time lighted with lamps.

1434-5. The Thames frozen over.

1450. Jack Cade enters the City at the head
of the Kentish rebels.

1475. Caxton sets up his printing press in
Westminster.

1500. The Plague carries off 20,000 people.

1502. Fleet Ditch made navigable as far as
Holborn Bridge, by order of Henry VII. f ^

1515. The Thames frozen over.

1517. "Evil Mayday" riot and destruction
of property of foreigners.

1522. Charles V. entertained in London with
great pomp.

1525. " Still Christmas" a year of pestilence.

1530-47. Henry VIII. burns Protestants
and hafigs Roman C atholics.

1555-58. Burning of Protestants by Queen
Mary, (commonly called " Bloody 4 Mary").

1560. Westminster School founded by
Queen Elizabeth.

1564. The Plague devastates the City.

1566. Sir Thomas Gresham lays the
foundations of the first Exchange.

1581. Peter Morris, a German, establishes
the Waterworks at London Bridge.

1592-3. The Plague carries off 22,165
persons.

1603. The Plague carrries off 30,578 souls
in one year.

1603-25. Lincoln's Inn Fields laid out as a
square, the first in London.

1604. Guy Fawke's Gunpowder Plot.
1606. The Thames frozen over. A fair

held on it.

1608. The New River Waterworks begun
by Hugh Myddelton.

1609. Large estates in Ulster granted to
the City of London, who founded there the
Cities of Londonderry and Coleraine.

10,-HISTORICAL SKETCH.

1615. Hackney coaches introduced.

1625. The Plague carries off 35,403 people.

1634. A monopoly for letting out Sedan
chairs, granted to Sir S. Duncombe.

1643. London surrounded by entrench-
ments.

1649. Charles I. executed.

1652. The first coffee-house opened in St.
Michael's Alley, Cornhill.

1660. The part of Desdemona performed
for the first time by an actress in the theatre
in Vere-street.

1662. Royal Society founded.

1663. Drury Lane Theatre built.

1665. Insurrection of the Fifth Monarchy
men.

1665. Great Plague, 68,596 persons die.

1666. Great fire of London.
1667-1752. Greenwich Hospital built.
1675-1710. St. Paul's Cathedral built.
1683. A London Penny Post introduced by

Murray, an upholsterer.

1683. Lord William Russell beheaded in
Lincoln's Inn Fields.

1687. French Protestant Rafugees settle in
Spitalfields in consequence of the revocation
of the Edict of Nantes.

1688. Every parish compelled to keep two
fire engines.

1694. Bank of England established.

1705. First Italian opera performed in
London.

1720. South Sea Bubble.

1739-50. Westminster Bridge, the second
bridge over the Thames, built.

1739-40. The "Great Frost." The Thames
frozen over.

1746. Chelsea Waterworks Company intro-
duces iron mains.

1753. The British Museum founded.

1768. The Royal Academy of Arts founded.

1771. The Lord Mayor (Crosby) and
Alderman Oliver committed to the Tower for
refusing to act upon a warrant of the House
of Commons directed against certain printers.

1780. "No Popery Riots," led by Lord
George Gordon.

1788-9. The Thames frozen over.

1797. The Bank of England suspends cash
payments.

1802. The West India Docks opened, the
first in London.

1805. London Docks opened.

1807. Pali Mall lighted with gas, by Winsor,
a German.

1811-17. Waterloo Bridge built.

1813. Thames frozen over and a fair held
on it

1813. Regent Street formed.

1814. The Allied Sovereigns entertained at
the Guildhall.

1816. The first steamer (from Glasgow) on
the Thames.

1820. Cato-street Conspiracy for assassi-
nating the Ministry.

1825-43. The Thames Tunnel constructed.

1826. Zoological Gardens established,

1826-33. Belgrave Square built.

1828. University College founded.

1829. Sir Robert Peel organised the Metro-
politan Police.

1829-50. Trafalgar Square formed.

1830. The last man exhibited in the pillory
for perjury.

1830. Omnibuses introduced by Mr. Shilli-
beer.

1831. New London Bridge opened.

1832. First visitation of cholera.

1832. Kensal Green Cemetery opened.

1833. Fire Brigade organised by the In-
surance companies.

1837 68. New Houses of Parliament built.

1841. The " Metropolitan Association for
improving the dwellings of the Industrial
Classes " founded.

1844. The first public "Baths and Wash-
houses" opened in Goulston Square.

1848. 200,000 citizens sworn in as special
constables to preserve the peace.

1838. The cholera destroys 15,000 persons.

1851. First International Exhibition in
Hyde Park.

185354. The Crystal Palace at Sydenhani
built.

1855. The Metropolitan Board of Works"
created.

!859 75. The Main Drainage of London
completed, at a cost of 4,500,000.

1863. The Underground Railway opened.

1 865 70. The Thames Embankment con-
structed.

1868. The Metropolitan Meat Market
opened.

1870. The first " School Board" elected.

11. EXTENT AND POPULATION.

Position mid Extent. London occupies
portions of the counties of Middlesex,
Surrey and Kent, on both sides of the
Thames, which is navigable for sea-going
vessels up to London Bridge, 47 miles
above its mouth at the Nore. The river
varies in width between 700 and 900 feet,
and the two portions of the town are con-
nected by eighteen bridges and two
tunnels. London covers altogether an
area of 118 square miles. Its greatest
extent, from east to west, amounts to ten
miles, and from north to south is eight
miles. It is bounded on the north by the
IT. ills of Middlesex, and on the south by
those of Surrey, and a considerable por-
tion of it occupies low alluvial tracts near
the Thames, which are even now occa-
sionally flooded by the tides, in spite of the
embankments constructed to control them.

The Climate is healthy, and the tem-
perature equable, rising but rarely above
90^ F., nor falling below 30 F. The
Thames has been known to be frozen over
as recently as 1814, and in 1826 and 1842
it was blocked up with floating ice ; but
an occurrence of this kind is not to be
looked for again, and here, as elsewhere,
the temperature has evidently become
milder with the increasing cultivation
of the country.

The Population of London has been
steadily on the increase since the beginning
of the present century, the censuses taken
since that time having given the following
results :

1801 864,845 1861 2,803,921

1821 1,225,694 1871 3,254,260

1841 1,870,727

In 1875 th e population was estimated
at 35i3jOOO souls, inhabiting 451,742
houses. Of the population enumerated
in 1871, 2,055,576 were natives of Lon-
don ; 944,684 were born in the remainder
of England and Wales ; 91,171 in Ire-
land ; 41,029 in Scotland ; and 92,800
abroad. To every thousand males there
were 1,137 females ; the annual death-rate
was 24-5 ; the birth-rate, 34-5 per thousand
living.

The occupations of the inhabitants of
London have been determined by the
census taken in 1871. No less than
1.973.295 persons, or 51 percent, of the
total population, were wives and women

engaged in household duties, children not
engaged in any directly productive occu-
pation, or persons of rank and property.
The occupations of the remaining 49 per
cent, have been classified as follows :

,~, i Jit/" Males and Females

General and local Go- Females. only.

vernment . . . 3i,95 2 I *59 I
Army and Navy . . 18,464
Learned professions :

Literature, Art, and

Science . . . 96,096 37,781
Persons engaged in

entertaining and

performing personal

offices for man . . 314,711 262,100
Persons who buy or

sell, keep or lend

money, houses, or

goods . . . 86,957 8,757
Conveyance of man,

animals, goods, or

messages . . . 134,014 1,096
Agriculture . . . 15,790 1,739
Persons engaged about

animals . . . 12,907 124

Industrial classes . . 725,695 220,923
Labourers, &c. . .122,162 13,782

There were 2,409 Protestant ministers,
286 Catholic priests, and 1,104 preachers ;
1,872 barristers, 3,364 attorneys ; 5,100
surgeons and physicians, 874 dentists, and
3,760 apothecaries and chemists ; 1,285
authors, 6,908 artists, 6,392 musicians, and
2,625 actors ; 20,556 schoolmasters and
teachers, and 2,203 scientific men ; 8,393
innkeepers and publicans, 2,407 beer-
sellers, and 3,076 coffee-house keepers ;
11,338 sailors, and 10,231 dock-labourers;
35,402 messengers ; 20,054 printers, and
3,336 booksellers ; 5,319 manufacturers of
musical instruments ; 4,906 watchmakers,
1,682 opticians, 759 surgical instrument
makers ; 14,413 machine builders, 6,973
jewellers, 6,171 ships' carpenters, &c.,
106,654 bricklayers and others engaged in
the building of houses, 26,387 cabinet-
makers and upholsterers, 1,284 gun-
. makers, 8,640 wheelwrights and coach-
builders, 6,629 silk weavers and dyers ;
5,145 hatmakers ; 23,516 tailors, 30,691
shoemakers, 73,240 dressmakers, 26,875
sempstresses ; 12,350 butchers, 4,766 fish-
mongers, 13,044 bakers, 12,217 tea-
dealers, 3,694 brewers, 3,157 cheese-
mongers, &c.

11. -EXTENT AND POPULATION.

The mean annual temperature of the
town is 51, that of the rural districts sur-
rounding it only 49, the difference in
favour of the town being accounted for by
its sheltered position, and by the thousands
of lamps and fires which raise the tem-
perature artificially. Dense fogs are one
of the peculiarities of London. Sometimes
they render it necessary to light the gas
in the middle of the day ; but as they are,
as a rule, quite local in character, tourists
should not be deterred by them from
making excursions into the country. They
will generally find the weather there every-
thing they could desire.

Divisions of London. These are nume-
rous and intricate, and even amongst the
natives of the metropolis there are few
who know the exact limits of the parish,
borough, police, or other division, in
which they happen to dwell. The " City
of London " can be said to have immu-
table boundaries, which are identical for
parliamentary, municipal, and other pur-
poses of local government. The " City of
Westminster" consists of 9 parishes having
a population of 51,181 souls, but enjoying
hardly any special privileges. In addition
to these two, there are eight parlia-
mentary boroughs, viz., Finsbury, Mary-
lebone, Tower Hamlets, Hackney, Chel-
sea, Southwark, Lambeth, and Greenwich,
which, together with the "Cities" of Lon-
don and Westminster, return 22 members
to the Imperial Parliament. In addition
to these cities and boroughs, there are 30
Poor Law L T nions, 28 Registration Dis-
tricts, 21 Police Districts, 39 Local Board
Districts, c., an enumeration of which
would hardly prove of interest. Far better
known are the great Social Divisions of
London, which are determined by position
and certain characteristic features, which
even a casual visitor cannot fail to be
struck with. Broadly speaking, these are
the City, the East End, the West End,
and the suburbs. The City may be looked
upon as the heart of the great metropolis,
the centre of all its commercial operations.
Its area is small (668 acres), and its popu-
lation in 1871 only amounted to 74,897
souls ; but it is, nevertheless, the busiest
place of all London nay, of all the world
during the day, and the streams of City
men carried thither by rail and omnibus

in the morning, to return home in the
evening to their suburban homes, must
strike even the visitor from other populous
places with astonishment. During the
night more than 2,000 huge warehouses
are said to stand empty, entrusted merely
to the care of the police ! Some notion
of the traffic may be gathered from the
fact that on a single day in 1872, between
eight o'clock in the morning and noon,
3,415 vehicles and 18,775 pedestrians
passed the Mansion House on an average
every hour 7 The City is essentially
devoted to commerce. Lombard-street
has been noted for ages for its banks ;
Mark-lane is the centre of the corn trade ;
Mincing-lane of the Colonial trade ;
Paternoster-row of the booksellers ; and
Fleet-street of the printers. Nor is there
any lack of well-furnished shops. The
East End surrounds the City on the east
and north. That portion of it which
extends along the Thames is given up to
Docks and to the various establishments
connected with the shipping trade and
with ship-building. Whitechapel is noted
for its tobacco manufactories ; Goodman's
Fields for its sugar refineries, employing
a large number of Germans ; Spitalfields
for its silk-weavers, originally French
Huguenots, who found refuge in this
country in 1687 ; and Clerkenwell num-
bers amongst its population many watch-
makers.

A sort of neutral territory, occupied by
the lawyers and their inns, separates the
city from the West End, the seat of the
Legislature, of the more renowned places
of amusement, and of clubs, fashionable
shops, and palatial residences. The con-
trast between the dingy streets of the City
and the magnificent squares and roads of
the West End is striking, but hardly more
so than that between different portions of
the West End itself. The club houses of
Pall-mall, the aristocratic mansions of
Belgravia, and the fine - residences in
Tyburnia, are in close proximity to ill-
built quarters of the town, which are the
seats of poverty and of vice. Landsecr,
in two of his admirable paintings of dogs,
entitled " St. James" and " St. Giles/' has
metaphorically portrayed this contrast.
Charing Cross is to the West End what the
Bank is to the City, a great centre of traffic.

12.-STREETS AND PARKS.

Southern London, " on the other side of
the water " is given up almost entirely to
the working 1 classes and to factories. The
tanners have established themselves in
Bermondsey, below London Bridge ; the
brewers in the borough, of Southwark ;
potters, soap manufacturers and chemists
in Lambeth.

Very different in their character from
these central portions of the Metropolis
are the Suburbs which surround them in
ail directions. Originally small villages or
towns, they have been swallowed up in the
course of time and now form integral
portions of the vast city. In their " high-
streets " we still meet with old substantial
dwellings, compactly built, and there are

never wanting a few streets which are
given up to shops, where the residents
may make their purchases, but as a rulo
detached or semi-detached houses, with
small gardens predominate, or gardens
separate the houses from the dusty roads.
The houses vary in size, for the suburbs
are not monopolized by the wealthier
classes of the population, but afford innum-
erable comfortable homes to the clerk and
mechanic likewise. It is a peculiarity of
London that none of these suburbs can be
reached without passing through dingy
portions of the town, where dwell the toiling
thousands, to whom London owes a great
portion of her wealth.

12. STREETS AND PARKS.

Streets. There can be no doubt that
the first impression which London streets
make upon the foreigner, accustomed to
brighter skies and gayer colours, is dismal
to a degree. Interminable rows of dingy
brick houses, with no pretension to archi-
tectural beauty these he meets with in
every quarter of the town. At the same
time it cannot be denied that London
possesses more private and business build-
ings, substantially built and creditable to
their architects, than any other city hi the
world. Of late years houses of this
description have bocn rapidly on the: in-
crease, and even those who prefer plain
stone to pretentious stucco ornamenta-
tion, have no reason to complain. Un-
fortunately these buildings are dispersed
all over the town, and do not therefore
strike the beholder as much as they would
do if they were concentrated in a particular
quarter of it, or they are hidden away in
narrow streets, where their grand pro-
portions only add to the gloom which
enshrouds them. They suffer, too, from
the atmosphere, the smoke, fog and gas,
and soon l>ecome dingy, unless painted at
frequent intervals. In many streets the
stranger will notice that uniformity in the
houses, which many admire so much in
Paris. The best samples of this "barrack-
style" are to be met with in many parts of

the West End, and particularly in Regent,
street, certainly one of the handsomest
streets in London, built by Mr. John Nash,
since 1813. In the more modern streets
this uniformity has been discarded, and
the student of architecture will meet there
with representatives of all styles, from the
Byzantine to the most florid Italian. One
of the best examples- of this class is Queen
Victoria-street, in the City, the only draw-
back to which consists in the inferior
width of some of the houses and in the
great difference in their height. The new
street from Trafalgar-square to the Thames
Embankment, which is planted with
trees, like the Paris Boulevards, may
possibly become one of the architectural
features of London. The fine oppor-
tunity for architectural display afforded
by the Embankment, stretching for 2330
yards along the Thames, has not hitherto
been taken advantage of to any extent.
On the contrary, this fine site has
been permitted to be disfigured by some
of the most ugly railway stations in
London.

Quite different in their character from
the streets in the interior of the town aro
some of those in the suburbs, whose
houses, far removed from 'the din of busi-
ness, and embedded in foliage, forr-i
most invitin residences.

12. STREETS AND PARKS.

In London, as in other large cities
rapidly increasing in population, a defi-
ciency of healthy d-u 'dlin 'gs for tJie work-
ing classes, combining central position
with lw rent and perfection of sanitary
arrangements, has made itself felt for
years past. A " Metropolitan Association
for improving the dwellings of the Indus-
trial Classes," which was established in
1841, first endeavoured to meet this want ;
and there exist no\v about 29 similar asso-
ciations, by whom dwellings accommo-
dating 50,000 persons have been erected
at a cost of ; 1, 600,000. One of the most
successful promoters of this class of public
enterprise has been Sir Sydney Waterlow,
who demonstrated that these model
lodging-houses might be made to pay a
fair percentage upon the capital invested
in them. The " Improved Industrial
Dwellings Company," of which he is
chairman, has furnished accommodation
for 1,745 families since 1863. Another
association, the " Artizans', Labourers',
and General Dwellings Company," is
engaged in building "Workmen's Cities"
in the neighbourhood of London. One of
these, " Shaftcsbury Park," has been de-
scribed by us in chap. 22.

A further impulse has been given to
this movement by Mr. Peabody, a wealthy
American, who placed ,500,000 in the
hands of trustees to be expended in the
erection of superior workmen's dwellings.
On the 3 ist December, 1875, tne trustees
had provided dwellings for 1,846 families
at an average rate of 45. a week for each
tenement, or of is. I id. for each room, and
the fund has increased to ,612,054. The
rent charged yields 3 per cent, upon the
capital expended.

An Act of Parliament passed recently
empowers the Board to remove houses
unfit for human habitation, and those
doubtful of the necessity of so stringent a
measure need penetrate only into some of
the alleys debouching upon Drury Lane
or Gray's Inn Road to become convinced
of its necessity.

The Squares of London form one of
its most attractive features. They are
generally occupied by a railed-in garden,
and owe their origin to speculative
builders, who trusted to increased value
of the surrounding houses, whose inhabi-

tants alone have access to the garden
enclosed by them. Inigo Jones, the great
architect, endeavoured to introduce the
Italian Piazza into London, but that of
Covent Garden, which he begun, has
never been completed, and its centre is
occupied now by an unsightly market-hall.
We owe to Jones, however, the " Lincoln's
Inn Fields," the prototype of all our
modern squares, and one of the largest
amongst them. It is exceeded only by
Eaton Square (Plan D 7), and next
to it rank Russell and Belgrave squares.
The only square in London not planted
with trees is that of Trafalgar, the cold
stone of which is greatly in want of some
foliage. The principal open spaces in
London, besides Parks and Commons,
have an area of nearly 300 acres. They
are known as " squares" indiscriminately
as long as they are enclosed by straight
lines.

Parks. Whilst the squares, as a rule,
are private property, the parks belong to
the public, and are maintained partly at
the expense of the Crown, partly at that
of the London ratepayers. There are
now thirteen of these Parks in London,
having a total area of 2,223 acres, and of
these the West-end Parks, extending
without interruption from Whitehall to
Kensington, and covering an area of 788
acres, arc the most important. The
stranger will not neglect to pay a visit to
Rotten Row, in Hyde Park, on a fine
afternoon, between the hours of 4 and 6
o'clock, but he should likewise visit
Regent's Park, and the more remote
Battersca and Victoria Parks, which are
the resort of the working population,
particularly on Saturday afternoons. Nor
should he neglect to search for the
sub-tropical gardens in Battersea Park
and Hyde Park, where he will meet with
many foreign plants not to be met with in
less favoured parts of Europe.

In addition to these public Parks there
arc several heaths or commons of large
extent, amongst which Blackheath, an:i
particularly Hampstcad Heath, are well
deserving of a visit, the latter affording
one of the finest views near London, and
one of the most favourable spots for
watching the sun rise. At a greater
distance from the town are Epping Forest,
60

12.-STREETS AND PARKS.

saved from enclosure through the public-
spirited interference of the Corporation of
London, Richmond Park and Bushey
Park. All these places are described in
subsequent pages of our guide.

Public Monuments. If we bear in mind
the vast size of the Metropolis we feel
bound to admit that the number of public
monuments is comparatively small, nor are
many of them distinguished for their ex-
cellence as works of Art, indeed there
are several which would do discredit
to a provincal town. Altogether there
exist in London, 63 open air monu-
ments, including 4 columns, 5 obelisks, 47
statues, 6 busts and 2 others.

Amongst the persons honoured in this
public manner, there are 13 Kings and
Oueens, (Queen Anne 3 times, Charles II.,
George II., and George III., each twice).
5 members of the Royal Family (Prince
Albert twice); n Statesmen, (Canning,
Pitt, Fox, Peel, Cobden, Palmerston,
Derby c.), 8 Warriors, (Wellington,
thrice, Nelson, Napier, Havelock, Outram,
Lord Clyde); 3 Travellers, (Franklin,
Speke, and Lieut. Bellot); 2 Engineers,
(Stephenson and Brunei); 2 Physicians,
(Jenner and Hunter); 2 Painters, (Hogarth
and Reynolds); 2 Authors, (Shakespeare
and Ben Jonson); 2 Philanthropists, (Guy
and Peabody); and 4 Civic dignitaries.
There are monuments also in commemo-
ration of the Great Fire, of the battle of
Chillian-Wallah, and of the Crimean
War. Amongst these monuments the
following are of interest to the sculptor :

By LE SCEUR : Charles I., at Charing
Cross, 1633 (Plan F 6).

By GRINLING Ginnoxs : James II.,
Whitehall, 1688 (Plan F 6).

By CHRISTOPHER WREN : Monument,
1677 (Plan K 5).

By Sir RICHARD WESTMACOTT : Achilles,
Hyde Park (Plan D 6) ; Fox, Bloomsbury
Square (Plan G 4) ; Canning, Parliament
Square (Plan F 7).

By NIXON :- William IV., London Bridge,
<Plnn K 5).

By Sir FRANCIS CHANTREY : George IV.,
Trafalgar Square (Plan F 6) ; Pitt, Hanover
Square (Plan E 5) ; Wellington, Royal Ex-
change (Plan K 5).

By M. C. WVATT : Duke of Wellington,
Hyde Park Coiner (Plan D 6).

By E. H. BAILEY : Nelson, on Railton's
Column. Trafalgar Square (Plan F 6).

By W. C. MARSHALL : Dr. Jenner, Ken-
sington Gardens (Plan B 5).

By J. BELL : Crimean Monument, Water-
loo Place (Plan F 6).

By NOBLE : John Franklin, Waterloo
Place.

By STORY : Peabocly, Royal Exchange
(Plan K 5).

By FOLEY: Lord Herbert, Pall Mall
(Plan E 6) ; Lord Palmerston, Parliament
Square (Plan F 7), Prince Albert, Hyde Park
(Plan B 7).

By BEHNES : Sir Robert Peel, Cheapside
(Plan I 50.

By G. SCOTT, MACDOWELL, REED, BELL,
and others : Albert Memorial in Hyde Park,
one of the most magnificent in the world.

In addition to the monuments in the public
streets and parks, many are to be found in
churches and other buildings, particularly in
Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral.

Traffic. That which probably strikes
the foreign visitor first in the streets of
London, is their vast amount of traffic.
At the Mansion House, during the busy
part of the day, at least four thousand
vehicles and 20,000 pedestrians pass every
hour ; London Bridge, in the morning
between nine and ten, or in the evening
between five and six, is a sight worth
seeing. There are in London about 1,200
omnibuses and tram-cars, and 3,000
hackney carriages. About one-half of the
omnibuses are the property of a public
company, who convey annually close upon
fifty millions of passengers. The cabs, as
a rule, belong to small' proprietors, from
whom they are hired by the cabmen.
The latter pay 155. a day for the use of a
cab and of two horses, and it is therefore
by no means easy for them to make a
living without occasionally receiving pay-
ment in excess of their legal fares. It
should be noticed, however, that cab-pro-
prietors make large profits, and that the
heavy payments exacted from cabmen
could hardly be enforced if these latter
were to organise a co-operative associa-
tion.

The Metropolitan Railways, which now
encircle London and traverse it in all
directions, it was hoped would relieve the
streets to some extent from heavy traffic,
but they can hardly be said to have done
62

13.-PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

so. Yet the number of passengers con-
veyed by them is enormous. The " Metro-
politan Railway" Aione conveys nearly
fifty millions of passengers annually. The
stranger should by no means omit travel-
ling at least once alon-g the Underground

Railway, which runs under the New-road
and other great thoroughfares from the
City to Paddington. He should likewise
visit the stations at Charing-cross, Cannon-
street, King's-cross, and St. Pancras,
which are probably the largest in the world.

13. PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

Royal Palaces. London has been the
capital of England and Wales since the
Norman Conquest. William the Con-
queror built the Tower, to serve at the
same time as a fortress and Royal resi-
dence ; and although that agglomeration
of buildings retained the latter designation
up to the time of Queen Elizabeth, it had
long before been converted into a State
prison, and is used now as an Arsenal
and military store. From the time of
William Rufus to that of Henry VIII
(1097-1547) the usual residence of the
kings was at V/cst minster Palace, since
which time it has been given up to Parlia-
ment and the Courts of Justice, who still
occupy the buildings erected after a fire
had destroyed the greater portion of the
original structures. Henry VIII removed
to \VJiiteiiall, which remained the Royal
residence until William III., when it was
destroyed by fire, a fragment of a new
Palace exceptcd and now known as the
Banqueting Hall, or Chapel Royal,
Whitehall. Amongst the Palaces which
are still the abode of royalty, that of St.
James's is the oldest. It was begun by
Henry VIII, and is used now for state
ceremonials only. Buckingham Palace,
in St. James's Park, is the residence of
the Queen during her rare visits to the
Metropolis ; Marlborough House is that
of the Prince of Wales, and Kensington
Palace is inhabited by several members
of the Royal family. The usual residence
of the Queen is Windsor Castle, which is
worthy of the Sovereign of so powerful
an Empire, which neither of the London
Palaces can be said to be. Balmoral, in
the Scotch highlands, and Osborne Hoiise
on the Isle of Wight, are favourite country
residences of the Queen. The old Palace
of Hampton Court has been given up to
Court Pensioners.

Residences and I\Tansions of the Nobility
and Gentry. There are but few amongst
these deserving attention on account of
their architectural excellence, though ex-
ternal plainness is compensated for, in
some measure, by luxuriant interiors and
incomparable art treasures. Lambeth-
Palace (Plan G 8), the town residence of
the Archbishop of Canterbury, is the
oldest of these residences, the chapel
dating from the I3th century. Crosbv
Hall, Bishopsgate, now a restaurant, is
the only gothic private mansion which
still exists in London. Northumberland
House and Burlington House, the latter
in particular a fine building, have dis-
appeared. Holland Hoiise, Kensington, is
deserving of notice principally on account
of its historical associations. The more
remarkable amongst the modern man-
sions of the nobility are Stafford HOIISJ
(Duke of Sutherland) St. James's Park ;
Bridgwater House and Spencer House
(Earl Spencer) facing Green Park; Gros-
venor House (Plan D 5) the residence
of the Duke of Westminster ; Apsley
House (Duke of Wellington), at Hyde
Park Corner; and Montagu House (Duke
of Buccleuch), Whitehall.

Government Buildings. The most
important of these are the Houses of
Parliament, also called the New Palace
of Westminster, a huge pile, fully described
by us (chap. 35). The Government offices
are scattered all over London, but it is
proposed to concentrate the majority < f
them in Whitehall, where there are already
the Horse Guards, the Admiralty, the
Foreign Offices and India Office, and
several others. Somerset House, chiefly
occupied by the Inland Revenue Depart-
ments, takes rank as one of the finest
buildings in the Metropolis. Amongst
other worthy of attention we mention

14,-RELIGIOUS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

the Record Office, in Fetter-lane ; the
General Post Office (Plan I 5) ; Trinity
House (Plan L 5) ; the Custom House
(Plan K 6) ; and the Royal Mint (Plan L 6).

The business of the City of London is
transacted principally in the Guildhall,
whilst the Mansion House is the official
residence of the Lord Mayor.

As regards military buildings, the
stranger will not confine himself to the
Tower, but will also seek out Chelsea and
Greenwich Hospitals the former a house
of invalids for soldiers, the latter, until
quite recently, a similar institution for
sailors, and now occupied by the Naval
Academy, the Naval School, and other

establishments connected with the Navy.
At Woolwich there are the Military Aca-
demy, extensive Artillery Barracks, and
the most important Arsenal of the United
Kingdom. The old Dockyard at Dept-
ford, where many of the most renowned
vessels of the Royal Navy were built, was
closed some years ago, and is used now
as a store and victualling yard. The
Naval Dockyards nearest to London are
those of Chatham and Portsmouth.

London is garrisoned by two regiments
and five battalions of Household Troops,
Woolwich by four brigades of Artillery and
a battalion of Infantry a small force for
so large a town.

14. RELIGIOUS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

Churches. Up to the time of the Refor-
mation church building had been going on
at a rapid rate, in the City especially,
which even now, when most of the ancient
churches have disappeared, abounds in
steeples. When Henry VIII. first laid
his ruthless hand upon the property of the
Church, about two-thirds of the area of
the City was given up to conventual and
other ecclesiastical structures, besides a
considerable space beyond the walls ; and
as all the bishops had palatial mansions
at that time in London, as well as many of
the abbots, there cannot have been over
much space for the dwellings of the laity.
Henry VIII., unfortunately, allowed the
mean parish churches to stand (of which
a few examples are extant at the present
time), while he destroyed the far finer con-
ventual churches ; and thus it happens
that London, one of the most ancient
cities in northern Europe, is singularly
poor in old ecclesiastical buildings. There
are only 25 churches now, including six
private or palatial chapels, which date
wholly or in part from the time anterior to
the Reformation, and most of these have
been so extensively remodelled as hardly
to be recognisable. The great fire in
1666 swept away 85 out of the 98 parish
churches of the City. Only 49 of these
were rebuilt, between 1668 and 1705, all
of them by Christopher Wren. These
were amply sufficient for the wants of the

inhabitants of that time, and they exceed
them now, for the City, which was at one
time densely inhabited, and abounded in
lodging-houses, has now become almost a
town of warehouses and offices, which are
left in charge of a few watchmen during
the night. Since Wren's time many old
churches have been replaced by modern
structures, and many new churches have
been erected in all parts of the town
(during the reign of Queen Anne, 1702-14,
no less than fifty), and there are now 1,135
places of worship, of which 480 belong to
the Established Church, 570 to Dissenters,
70 to Roman Catholics, and 15 to Jews.

Amongst these many churches there are
only few which are interesting for their
antiquity, or as works of art. All these
we shall describe in the course of our
" walks through London." The following
summary draws attention to the principal
amongst them :

OLD CHURCHES.

St. John's Chapel in the Tower, dates from
the time of William the Conqueror.

Si. Bartholomew) 1 *, Smithfield (Plan I 4).
Portions belong to time of Henry I.

Temple Church (Plan H 5). Entire. Time
of Henry II. and III.

St. Saviour's, South wai-k (Plan I 6). Nave
destroyed. Time of Henry III.

Westminster Abbey. Time of Henry III. to
Edward IV., with chapel of Henry VII.

St. Stephen's Crypt, adjoining Westminster
Hall, carefully restored. Time of Edward I.
66

14.- BELIGIOUS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

Ely Chapel (Ethelreda's), Ely Place (Plan,
H 4), only crypt and walls. Restored. Time
of Edward II and III.

Dutch Church^ Austin Friars (Plan, K 5).
Time of Edward III. Much altered.

Chapel Roy al, St. James's Palace, and
chapel in the Court of Cloisters of the Houses
of Parliament. Time of Henry VIII.

MODERN CHURCHES.

By INIGO JONES. St. P.-inTs, Covent
Garden (Plan G 5) 1645, rebuilt in 1795,
after fire, in accordance with original plan.

By SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN : St. PauF*
Cathedral (I 5) ; Mary-lc-Bow (Plan I 5) ; St.
Bride's, Fleet Street (Plan H 5) ; St. Dnn-
stan's-in-ihc-East (Plan K 6).

BY HAWKSMOOR : St, Mary Woolnoth,
Bank (Plan K 5, 1716); St. George's, Hart
Street, Bloomsbury (Plan F 4) 1731 ; Christ
Church, Spitalfields (Plan L 4).

By GIBBS : St. Martin's, Trafalgar Square
(Plan F 6), 1721-26; St. Mary-k-Strand
(Plan G 5), 1714-17 ; St. George's, Hanover
Square (Plan E 5), 1724.

By JAMES GOLD : St. Botolph's, Bishops-
gate (Plan K 5), 1725-28.

By DANCE, Sen. : St. Leonard's, Shore-
ditch (Plan L 3), 1760.

By SHAW : St. Dunstan's, Fleet Street
(Plan H 5), 1830-33).

By HARDWICKE .- New Marylebone
Church (Plan D 4) 1813-17.

By INWOOD .-New St. Pancras Church
(Plan F 3), 1819-22.

By A. W. PUGIN : St. George's Cathedral
{Plan H 7), 1840-49.

By B. FERREY : St. Stephen's, Rochester
How, Westminster (Plan E 8), 1848-50.

By BUTTERFIELD : All Saints', Margaret
Street (Plan E 4).

By GILBERT SCOTT : Parish churches of
Camberwell (Plan In) and Kensington (Flan
A 7).

Religious Societies. Their number is
large, their activity extends to every con-
ceivable subject connected with religion,
and their incomes are stupendous. Fore-
most amongst them are the Missionary
Societies, who expend most of their
energies abroad. The Church Missionary
Society has an annual income of ,175,000,
the Wesleyan Missionary Society enjoys a
revenue of ,184,000 annually, the London
Missionary Society expends ,1 13,000, and
the Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel in Foreign Parts, 1 3 5 ,000. There
are likewise numerous Home Missionary

Societies, the wealthiest amongst which
is the London City Mission, established
in 1832, with an income of ,46,000. The
various Young Men's Societies, as well as
the Band of Hope Union, fall under the
same category. Numerous Societies have
been established for building new Churches
and Chapels, and for improving the income
of badly paid clergymen. To this class
belong the Church P as f oral Aid Society
(income 67,006), the Additional Curates
Society (,65,000). The same object i s
aimed at by the Bishop of London's Fund
,500,000), the Colonial Bishopric's Fund
(,460,000), and several others.

There are numerous Religious Pub-
lishing Societies. Tht British and Foreign
Bible Society, founded in 1804, takes the
lead amongst these. It has published the
Bible in 200 different languages, and dis-
tributed millions of copies through all
parts of the world. Its annual income
amounts to 220,000. The Religions
Tract Society ranks next to it in impor-
tance, and enjoys an income of ,145,000.
The Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge is more comprehensive in its
aims, and has published many educational
works of high value. It receives about
,36,000 annually from voluntary contri-
butions.

There are also an English Church Union
for the defence of Ritualistic principles, a
Church Association, for counteracting the
efforts of the former ; a Church Defence
Institution, which advocates the union
of Church and State, and a Liberation
Society which aims at their separation.
The Charitable Societies for the support
of poor Clergymen and their Widows and
Orphans are numerous and wealthy.

Charitable Institutions. There is no
city in the world which can rival London
in the number and wealth of its Charitable
Institutions, and yet they are able to
alleviate only a portion of the misery
which exists. A couple of years ago
Dr. Hawksley computed that their existed
in London no less than 1042 Charitable
Institutions and Societies, having an annual
income of ,4,182,000. Of these, 324, with
an income ,1,426,000, were educational,
1 8 1, with an income of ,646,000, devoted
themselves to the care of the sick, 537
with an income of ,2,110,000 granted aid
68

14.-RELIGIOUS AND CHAHITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

in money, lodging, clothing, &c. If ^ve ,
add to these sums the collections made in i
the churches, and the public expenditure
from the poor rates and other sources, the
total annually expended in charitable re-
lief rises to the immense sum of seven
millions sterling.

The so-called Workhouses or Unions ;
are maintained from the poor-rates, I
and provide food and lodging to about |
40,000 persons, most of them past the age i
for work, or children. In connection with |
each Wofkhouse there exists an Infirmary ;
and a School. The number of persons in [
receipt of out-door relief averages about i
60,000 throughout the year. There are \
two Lunatic Asylums in London, those of
St. Luke's and Bethlehem (vulgo Bedlam)
besides the two Middlesex County Asylums
at Colney Hatch and/faoW/,in its vicinity.
The two latter are mainly supported from
parochial rates. They will prove par-
ticularly interesting to medical men, and
may fairly be described as pattern insti-
tutions.

Chelsea and Greenwich Hospitals, as
well as the Military Hospitals ought not to
be included amongst Charitable Insti-
tutions, for the assistance which they grant
forms part of the bargain which a soldier
or sailor makes on entering the Army or
Navy.

All other Charitable Institutions, in-
cluding the great Hospitals for the cure of
diseases, are supported by private con-
tributions, by societies and corporations
(amongst whom the City Companies are
prominent) or from endowments. As a
rule, admission to them can be obtained
only by the recommendation of a governor
or benefactor. Foremost amongst them
are the Hospitals for the treatment of
diseases, which include 27 General Hos-
pitals, 82 Special Hospitals for the treat-
ment of particular diseases or of special
classes of patients, 20 Convalescent Homes,
4 Homes for incurables, and 5 Lying-in
Hospitals. These institutions contain
about 8,000 beds, receive annually 60,000
patients and give medical advice and
medicines to hundreds of thousands
through their dispensaries. Of these
latter, there are 61, in addition to those
-attached to the hospitals, and some of
them are provident, that is, they extend
69

their assistance only on a small payment
being made.

The London Hospital (800 beds) Guy's
(710 beds), St. Bartholemew's (676 beds),
and St. Thomas's (620 beds), are the
most important amongst the General
Hospitals, and the last is most deserving
inspection.

Almshouses and Asylums afford lodging
generally coupled with a small pension,
to decayed tradesmen and others. There
are about 150 of these institutions in
: London, many of them established in the
! middle ages. The oldest amongst them
i is St. K either ines Hospital which was
I founded in 1 148, but out of an income of
j 7,000 only expends ; i, 200 in charitable
; purposes. Other institutions of this
. kind are Whittingtoris College, Highgate,
I founded in 1521 by the celebrated Lord
I Mayor, whose name it bears ; Mordcn
I College, Blackheath, for decayed mer-
| chants, founded in 1695, the Licensed
\ Victuallers' Asylum, Old Kent Road,
I established in 1827, and the Fishmongers'
Almshouses, at Wands worth, opened
| recently.

i The Miscellaneous Charities of London
i extend to all the ills that human flesh is
1 heir to. We must confine ourselves to
some of the more important and char-
acteristic amongst them.

School for the Indigent Blind, St. George's
Fields (Plan H 7). Established in 1799. 200
inmates. Annual income .7,000. The first
institution of this kind in London.

Asylum for Deaf and Dumb Children, Old
Kent Road (Plan K 8). Established 1792.
300 inmates.

Asylum for Idiots, Earlswood, Redhill,
Surrey. Established 1847. 600 inmates.
Income, ^"31,000.

Infant Orphan Asylum, Wansted. Estab-
lished 1827. 600 inmates. Annual income,
^20,000.

London Orphan Asylum, Watford. Estab-
lished 1813. 500 inmates. Annual income,
i ,20,000.

i Soldiers'" Daughter? Home, Hampstead.
I Established 1855. 1 60 inmates. Income,
i 4,500.

Foundling Hospital for the reception of
I illegitimate children whose mothers are known
j and have borne a good character (Plan G 4).

Governesses Benevolent Institution, 47, Har-
' ley-street. Established 1843. Grants tem-
70

15.-EDUCATION, ART, AND SCIENCE.

porary relief and pensions to governesses.
Annual income, 37,000.

Sailors' Herns, Well Street, London Docks.
Founded 1830, for providing sailors with a
well-appointed home during their stay in
London.

Corporation of the Sons of the Clergy, 2,
Bloomsbury Place. Founded 1655, for the
assistance of the widows and daughters of
clergymen and others.

Marine Society, 54, Bishopsgate Street.
Established 1756, for instructing poor and
destitute boys on board a training ship
off Woolwich. 200 boys under training.
Income, ,9,500.

J.ondon Female Preventive and Reformatory
Institution, 200 Euston Road. Established
1857. 160 inmates in five homes. Income,
5,Soo.

Magdalen Hospital, 19, Gower Street, Bed-
ford Square. Established 1758, for the refor-
mation of fallen women.

Royal Military Asylum, Chelsea. Estab-
lished 1801, for the education of 458 orphan
children of soldiers. Supported by Parlia-
mentary grants.

Creenii'icJi Hospital School, for the education
of 1,200 sons of sailors or marines.

Victoria Patriotic Asylum, \Vandsworth
Common, for soldiers' and sailors' children.
Endowed from the Patriotic Fund (see below).

Refuges and Homes for Destitute Boys and
Cirh. Established 1852. With Boys' Re-
fuge, 8, Great Queen Street ; the Chichester

' training ship, off Greenhithe ; Farm Schools,
' &c. ; with 670 inmates. Income, .24,000.
Philanthropic Society for tJie Reformation (f
j Criminal Boys. Established 1788, with Farm
j Schools at Redhill, Surrey. Inmates, 300.
j Income, 14,000.

Middlesex Industrial School, Feltham, near
I Hounslow. Established 1859, for the education
I of juvenile offenders. 675 inmates. Sup-
; ported principally by a county rate.

National Lifeboat Institution, 14, John
Street, Adelphi. Established 1824, for the
preservation of life from shipwreck. The
society has an income of .33,500, and main-
tains 250 lifeboat stations.

Rc-yal teimanc Society, 4, Trafalgar Square,
established 1774, for recovering the apparently
drowned or dead, and bestowing rewards on
those who assist in the preservation of life.
Annual income, 2,880.

Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals, 105, Jermyn-street. Established
1824. The first society of this kind.

Amongst the funds collected for particular
purposes, we mention the following :

Lloyd's Patriotic Fund, 1803, for the sup-
port of soldiers' and sailors' widows and orphans
Receipts up to the end of 1874, 828,723.

Patriotic Fund, collected at the time of the
Crimean War, 1,460,718,

Indian Mutiny Fund, 1857, 440,200.
British National Society for Aid to the
Sick and Wounded in War, 1870-71,.
294,455.

15. EDUCATION, AUT, AND SCIENCE.

Education. The Elementary Education
in London may be said to have been
placed on a satisfactory footing since a
School Board of 50 members, elected by
the ratepayers, has been called into
existence (in 1870), with power to estab-
lish schools at the public expense wher-
ever they are needed. Up to September,
1875, the Board had built 100 schools,
accommodating 89,776 children, and exer-
cised control over 199 other schools,
attended by 112,901 children. The expen-
diture of the Board in 1874 amounted to
813,354; its debts on the 25th March,
1875, to ,1,583,934. These Board Schools
are not intended to supplant private and
other schools when these reach a moderate
standard of efficiency, and the latter con-

tinue in the enjoyment of a Government
Grant, as formerly. Foremost amongst
them are the schools of the National
Society, founded in 1811 by Dr. Bell, in
connection with the Church of England,
which enjoys an annual re venue of 31,000,.
and maintains two training colleges and
260 schools ; and those of the " Britisti
and Foreign School Society" founded in
1808 by Lancaster, which limits its religious
instruction to reading the Bible, has an
income of 23,000, and maintains a train-
ing college and 88 schools. The Ragged
Schools are fortunately dying out, for the
work done by them is gradually being cut
from under their feet by the exertions of the
School Board. London is in a fair way now
of being supplied with efficient Elementary

15.-EDUCATION, ART, AND SCIENCE.

Schools, but there is still a great want of j
good middle-class schools, and the efforts
of a society like the " Middle Class Edu-
cational Corporation," which opened a
school for 1,000 boys in Cowper-street,
City-road, in 1866, and the " Girls' Public
Day School Company" (112, Broinpton-
road, S.W.), are therefore deserving of
encouragement, for the school-fees charged
at private schools, some of which are of
superior excellence, are too often beyond
the means of professional and other
middle-class men.

A classical education is imparted at 17
grammar schools, and at 6 great public
schools enjoying liberal endowments.
Amongst these latter are St. Paul's
School, Christ's Hospital, Westminster
School, the Merchant Tailors' School, the
Mercers' School, Dulwich College, and
the City of London School. Charter House
School has been removed to Godalming.
At most of these schools, pupils, not on
the foundation, are admitted on payment
of a fee.

Amongst professional schools may be
mentioned the Royal School of Mines
and of Chemistry, the National Art
Training School at South Kensington,
with nine district schools in connection
with it ; the Royal Academy of Music, 4,
Tenterclen Street, W., and the National
School of Music ; the Medical Schools in
connection with the * principal hospitals ;
the Royal Veterinary College ; the Royal
Naval School at Greenwich, and the Mili-
tary Academy at Woolwich' ; Theological
Colleges ; 9 Training Colleges for School-
masters and Schoolmistresses, and several
others.

An University Education is afforded at
University College, King's College, and
New College ; the first unsectarian, the
second Anglican, the last Congregational.
The University of London has for its
principal function the examination of
students educated at these and similar
colleges throughout the country, and its
degrees are deservedly held in high esteem.

The superior education of ladies is
attended to at 3 proprietary colleges.

Evening classes for working men ami
others are held at several of the institu-
tions mentioned above, as well as at the
Royal Institution, 21, Albemarle-street ;
the Working Men's College, 45, Great
Ormond-street ; at the Birkbeck Literary
and Scientific Institiition, Southampton-
buildings, Chancery-lane, and elsewhere.

Art and Science. Scientific and art
collections are exceedingly numerous.
The casual visitor will naturally confine
himself to an inspection of the public
museums and galleries, amongst which
the British Museum, the Kensington
Museum, the National Gallery, are the
most important; to the sculptures in
Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathe-
dral, and to the art treasures collected at
the Crystal Palace and elsewhere. In
addition to these collections, there are
numerous others, the property of societies
or of private individuals, which contain
much to interest the connoisseur or savan,
and which should be visited if time at all
"permits. A list of the principal ones
amongst them has been given, p. 23-24.

There is hardly a branch of science or
art which is not represented by one or
more societies specially founded for its
cultivation. The foremost rank amongst
the learned bodies of this class is accorded
to the Royal Society, which, together with
other leading societies, has now found a
worthy home in New Burlington House
(Plan E 6). The Royal Academy of Art
holds an equally prominent position among
art institutions, and the F.R.S. of the
former, as well as the R.A. (Royal Acade-
mician), and A. R.A. (Associate Royal
Academy), are letters of distinction eagerly
coveted.

The principal Public Library of London
is that of the British Museum. There are
many others in connection with institu-
tions and societies, the principal amongst
which will be found on p. 43. The
London Library, St. James's Square, takes
the lead amongst subscription libraries,
whilst the valuable library of the London
7>z.y/z7w/zVw(Finsbury Circus), is accessible
on liberal terms.

7.7

74-

16.-COMMERCE AND TRADE.

Commercial Institutions. London is
essentially a commercial city, and, as far
as financial business is concerned, it un-
doubtedly is the chief place in the world.
In addition to the Bank of England, there
are 17 Joint Stock Banks and 43 Private
Banks, besides numerous branches of
Foreign Banks. The Banker's Clearing
House, Post Office Court, Lombard Street,
is an establishment kept up by the leading
private bankers, to enable them to settle
the accounts they have one with the other
without the payment of coin. Some idea
of the extent of business transacted here
may be gathered from the fact that in a
single week in November, 1874, cheques
to the amount of ^920,000,000 changed j
hands here.

The Royal Exchange offers facilities for
the transaction of business between mer-
chants and bankers. Lloyd's Subscription
Rooms occupy a portion of the upper floor
of this building. The dealers and specu-
lators in stock have a Stock Exchange of
their own, and there exist likewise a Coal
Exchange, a Corn Exchange, and a Hop
and Malt Exchange. There are also
several "coffee-houses" frequented by
particular classes of the mercantile com-
munity, who are supplied there with the
commercial news of which they stand in
need. Of this kind are the " Baltic? in
Threadneedle Street, for the north of
Europe ; the " Jerusalem? Cowper's
Court, Cornhill, for the Eastern and
Australian trade ; the " Jamaica? St.
Michael's Alley, Cornhill, for the West
India trade, and others. The Commercial
Sale Rooms, in Mincing Lane, have been
established for the accommodation of
brokers in foreign and colonial produce.

No better idea of the commercial
activity of London can be obtained than
by a run down the river in a steam-boat,
and a visit to the Docks which extend
along both banks of it.

The Docks have all been constructed
since 1800, up to which time the cargoes
had to be discharged into lighters. They
cover an area of 364 acres, besides what is
occupied by the wharfs and warehouses
surrounding them, and have been con-
structed, without exception, by joint-stock
companies. On the northern bank of the

river are St. Katherine's Docks, the London
Docks, the West India Docks, the Mill-
wall Docks, the East India Docks, and
the Victoria Docks ; on the south bank arc
the Commercial Docks. A visit to all
these Docks would hardly compensate for
the time involved in it, but the London
Docks should certainly be visited, if pos-
sible, armed with a " Tasting Order" from
a wine-merchant, which admits to the
extensive wine-vaults.

The port of London extends to the
mouth of the Thames. In 1874, there
belonged to it 2,839 sea-going vessels, (in-
clusive of 846 steamers) of 1,142,057 tons
burden, besides 201 large fishing boats.
11,512 vessels entered in that year from
foreign countries and the colonies, and
30,828 from other parts of the United
Kingdom. There arrived thus daily more
than loo vessels, not including fishing
smacks or coasters in ballast.

The value of the Exports of the
United Kingdom annually amounts to
^60,000,000; of Imports to ^130,000,000 ;
and the Custom's receipts exceed
^10,000,000. Amongst the imports,
colonial produce and tea, as well as all
kinds of provisions, constitute most im-
portant items.

Markets. These are less in number
than might be expected from the size of
the town. Several attempts to establish
" Markets" in the suburbs have failed, and
even the existing markets, with the excep-
tion of that of Covent Garden, can hardly
be called paying concerns. The stranger
should under no circumstances omit paying
a visit to the Metropolitan Meat and
Poultry Markets, recently built on Smith-
field (Plan H 4), as well as to the great
fish-market at Billingsgate (Plan K 6),
and to the Metropolitan Cattle Market
(Plan G i). These three markets are the
property of the Corporation of London, and
they contrast most favourably with Covent
Garden Market, which yields a large
revenue to the wealthy nobleman who is
its proprietor. Markets should be visited
in the forenoon.

Amongst the Bazaars, that of Soho
Square will repay a visit during the
hours of 4 and 5, when it is crowded with
fashionably dressed ladies (Plan F 5).

17. GOVERNMENT OP LONDON. PUBLIC WORKS.

Local Government of London. In our
notice of the local government of the me-
tropolis, it is only fit that we should mention
the City first, for it alone is in the enjoy-
ment of municipal government, all schemes
of extending that' privilege to the whole of
London having failed hitherto. In 1835,
when the remaining municipalities of the
kingdom were reformed, the City of Lon-
don was the only place of importance
which was exempted from the operation
of that Act, and it continues to enjoy, up
to the present day, its ancient privileges
and immunities. Old English customs
are preserved there to an extent not
known elsewhere, except, perhaps, in the
decayed municipalities, whose malad-
ministration has lately been exposed by
Sir Charles Dilke. The City is divided
into 26 wards, and these into 207 precincts,
the latter consisting sometimes only of a
single street. The inhabitants of each
Precinct, whether citizens or not, meet
annually a few days before St. Thomas's
Day, when the affairs of the precinct are
discussed, and the roll of candidates for
election as common councilmen and in-
questmen is made up. The Wardmote
meets on St. Thomas's Day for the election
of a common councilman, of 16 inquest-
men (charged with the inspection of
weights and measures, the removal ot
nuisances, c.), and of the other officers
of the ward. At this meeting only free-
men of the City, who are at the same time
on the parliamentary voters' list, have a
vote. The freedom of the City may be
taken up by sons or daughters of freemen,
on their attaining the age of twenty-one,
and by apprentices of freemen ; or it may
be obtained on payment of a small fee by
anyone carrying on business in the City.
On the Monday after Twelfth Day the
inquestmen of the ward attend before the
Court of Aldermen, sitting at the Guild-
hall, when the common councilmen chosen
are presented. The aldermen are likewise
elected by the Wardmote for life, and as
a body they form the " Court of Alder-
men? jointly with the common councilmen
they form the " Court of Common Council"
which thus consists of 233 members, 26 of
whom are aldermen. Both these courts,
as well as the " Common Hall " of the

Livery (see below), are presided over by
the Lord Mayor, whose election takes
place annually on the 29th September.
As a rule the senior alderman is chosen
for that office, the privilege of nomination
being vested in Common Hall, that of
election in the Court of Aldermen, and
the same individual generally holds this
office only once in his life, though there is
no strict rule to that effect. Whittington,
it is well known, was " thrice Lord Mayor,
of London," and quite recently Alderman
Cubitt held that office for two successive
years (1861 and 1862). The election is
formally approved by the Lord Chancellor
on behalf of the Crown. On the 8th of
November the Lord Mayor elect is sworn
in before the Court of Aldermen, and in-
vested with the insignia of his office, and
on die day after, " Lord Mayor's Day," he
proceeds in state to the Court of Exche-
quer in Westminster, where he takes an
City, the procession is joined by the
judges, Her Majesty's ministers, the
foreign ambassadors, and other distin-
guished persons, who, together with the
oath of allegiance. On his return to the
members, are entertained at a magnificent
banquet at the Guildhall, the expenses of
which are shared by the Lord Mayor and
the two sheriff's. The Lord Mayor holds
the first place in the City next to the
Queen ; he is an ex officio member of the
Privy Council, a judge of the Central
Griminal Court, a Justice of the Peace of
the metropolitan counties, Lord -Lieu-
tenant and Admiral of the Port of Lon-
don, and conservator of the Thames.
His official residence is the Mansion
House, and he is expected to keep up
there the traditional reputation of the City
for hospitality. His annual stipend
amounts to ,10,000.

The City officers are appointed by the
Court of Aldermen, the Court of Common
Council, or the Livery. The two Sheriffs
exercise authority in London and Middle-
sex, and are elected by the Livery on
Midsummer Day. Each sheriff chooses a
solicitor as undcr-shcriff. This office is
honourable but expensive, for the sheriff
is expected to give annually a number of
d i n ners. The Recorder of London (sal ar y
,3,000) is the chief City judge, and

17.-GOVERNMENT OF LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS.

official "orator" on public occasions.
The Common-serjeant (salary .2,550),
the judge of the City of London Court,
and the assistant-judge of the Mayor's
Court, are the principal officers of justice.
The Chambculain is chosen by the Livery,
and acts as City 'Treasurer. The annual
income of the Corporation of London
amounted in 1874 to ,232,868, of which
,96,950 was derived from rents, &c.,
;i 6,028 from capital invested, ,39,392
from market rents. The total receipts,
however, for local purposes of every kind,
exceed ,1,000,000 annually.

The City Companies take a large share
in the government of the City. Most of
them date from the I3th or I4th century,
though they spring, no doubt, from the
Guilds of Saxon times. Originally these
Companies were associations of persons
carrying on the same trade, but they are
so no longer, with the exception of the
Apothecaries, the Goldsmiths, the Gun-
makers, and Stationers, who are still
charged with the exercise of certain func-
tions in connection with the trades wKich
they represent. The total number of
Companies still in existence is 79 ; of
these 40 have halls of their own, and 73
are " Livery Companies ;" that is, a cer-
tain number of the freemen belonging to
them are members of the Common
Hall (see above). The order of prece-
dence of these Companies is fixed by law.
The so-called twelve great Companies are
the Mercers, the Grocers, the Drapers,
the Fishmongers, the Goldsmiths, Skin-
ners, Merchant Tailors, Haberdashers,
Salters, Ironmongers, Vintners, and
Clothworkers. The total income of the
several Companies arising from endow-
ments was stated, some years ago, to
amount to ,99,000 ; their entire income,
however, is much greater, for not only
do they levy heavy fees for taking
up freedom, but they also make a charge
on admission to the Livery and to cer-
tain offices of honour. A large portion
of the income is expended in feasting,
and strangers should endeavour to obtain
admission to one of these dinners, when
they will be able to witness many old
customs, now generally fallen into disuse. |
Jt must be said, however, that all the j

Companies support charitable institutions,
that several amongst them maintain ex-
cellent schools, and' that if they do feast,
they do so at their own expense.

Several of the halls are deserving a
visit, notably those of the Goldsmiths,
Fishmongers, and Armourers.

The Metropolis at large is not yet in the
enjoyment of municipal institutions, but
is governed by 38 Local Boards or Vestries,
30 Boards of Guardians for the adminis-
tration of the poor laws, a Metropolitan
Board of Works, a School Board, and
several other bodies, wholly or in part
elected by the ratepayers. It has been
calculated that these Boards count no
less than 8,073 members, supported by an
army of local officials. In 1873 tn e local
expenditure of the metropolis (including
the City) amounted to ,6,619,000, the
local indebtness to ,21,708,402. The
rateable value of the house property was
estimated, in 1876, at .23,276,000 ; in
1856 it was only ,11,283,000.

The Metropolitan Board of Works is
the most important of these governing
bodies. It is charged with the main-
tenance of the main drainage, the control
over the formation of the streets, the
supervision of the gas and water supply,
the maintenance of the fire-brigade, of the
parks and commons, and other duties.
Its 44 members are elected by the Cor-
poration of the City of London, and by 38
parishes or local districts, and their
meetings are presided over by a chairman
appointed by Government, and in receipt
of a salary of 2,000 a year. Amongst
the special works carried out by this
Board are the main drainage of London,
the embankment of the Thames, the for-
mation of Queen Victoria-street, c. Its
estimated expenditure for 1876 amounts
to ,840,017, and its consolidated stock on
the 3ist December, 1875, amounted to
8,011,011.

The Main Drainage of London was
carried out between 1859 and 1875 by
Sir J. W. Bazalgette, the Engineer of the
Board, at an expense of ^4,500,000.
There are now 254 miles of main sewers,
and 776 miles of local sewers, and the
sewage is pumped into the Thames by
powerful steam engines erected at the
So

17. GOVERNMENT OP LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS.

Abbey Mills, near Barking Creek, and at
Crossness Point, on the opposite bank of
the river.

The Embankment of tlie Thames , another
great work for which we are indebted to
this Board, cost ,2,403,209.

The FIRE BRIGADE is an institution of
comparatively modern origin. Formerly
each parish was bound to keep two
engines, but their inefficiency induced the
Fire Insurance Companies to provide
engines of their own, and these, in 1833,
were combined into a Fire Brigade. This
brigade is now under the government of
the Board of Works. It consists of 400
men, with 29 steam engines, 86 manual
engines and 129 fire escapes. There are
49 fire stations connected by telegraphs.
The Insurance Companies maintain a
Salvage Corps in addition. The average
number of fires is about 30 every week.

The POLICE, as organized at the present
day, were established in 1829 by Sir Robert
Peel, and superseded a very inefficient
body of watchmen and constables. The
City Police (784 men), is under the
corporation, that of the remainder of the
Metropolis (i; 2 4i men, 280 horses), under
the Home Office. The total expenditure
for the maintenance of the Police slightly
exceeds one million pounds sterling a year.
The head-quarters of the Police are at
Scotland Yard (Plan F 6).

WATER SUPPLY. In former times the
citizens of London trusted to the Thames
for their supply of water, and to the
sparkling rivulets which entered it near
the city, such as the Wai-brook, and Old-
bourne (Holborn), long since converted
into sewers. At a later period the water
of certain wells (Clerkenwell, Holywell),
was led through pipes to so-called con-
duits. But in course of time these means
of supply became exhausted, and in 1581
an ingenious German, Peter Morrys
(Maurice), was empowered to set up a
water-wheel under one of the arches of
London Bridge. This wheel was set in
motion by the tidal current and worked a
pump which forced the water through
pipes into the streets and houses. These
water-works turned out a great success,
andthey disappeared only with old London
Bridge in 1831. In 1606 the City had \
Si '

I obtained an Act of Parliament for bring-
ing a stream of pure water from Hertford-
shire into London, but frightened at the
magnitude of the task which they had
undertaken, they were only too happy
when Hugh Myddleton undertook to carry
out the scheme at his own risk. This was
the origin of the " New River Company,"
one of the most successful undertakings
in the world. The "York Buildings
Waterworks" were established next, in
1691. They drew their supply of water
from the Thames, near Charing-cross, and
existed until 1829. After a lapse of 32
years the " Chelsea Water-works" were
established, and to them we owe the
introduction of iron water pipes, as well
as of filtering basins (1829). In 1849 the
Metropolis was supplied with 44,383,329
gallons of water daily, in 1875 eight com-
panies supplied 116,138,787 gallons, or 337
gallons daily per head of the population.
About one half of this supply is taken from
the Thames. There are many shallow
wells, but their water is mostly unfit for use,
as well as artesian wells in breweries and
other large establishments. The Drink-
ing Fountains and Cattle Troughs in the
streets have been provided by a private
association (Address, 1 1 I, Victoria-street,
Westminster).

PUBLIC BATHS AND WASHHOUSES may
fitly be mentioned in connection with the
water-works, for without them, they could
not exist. They originated in 1844 in a
meeting held at the Mansion House.
The first public baths were opened in
Goulston-square, in 1847, and an Act of
Parliament, passed soon afterwards,
enabled parishes to erect such establish-
ments at the public expense. No less
than thirteen parochial baths are now in
existence. Most of them supply warm
and cold private baths, plunge baths, and
accommodation for washing and drying
clothes, and there can be no doubt of the
social and sanitary utility of these institu-
tions. One of the most recent and best
arranged of these institutions is that of
. St. Pancras (Plan F 2).

LIGHTING. In 1807 Mr. Winsor, a
German, experimentally lit up one side of
Pall Mall with gas, and his supporters
were embodied, 1872, as the "Chartered

17 .-GOVERNMENT OF LONDON.-PUBLIC WORKS.

Gas Company." At the present time there
are nine companies, having a capital of
^10,605,793. In 1874 they consumed
1,445,000 tons of coal, and manufactured
14,065,428,000 cubic feet of gas, of which
no less than i ,232,000,000 were lost through
leakage on the way from the gas works to
the houses of the customers. The com-
panies are bound to supply gas of a certain
standard at a price not yielding above 10
per cent, profit on their paid-up capital.

CEMETERIES. The ancient Britons and
Romans, as well as the Saxons who
succeeded them, buried their dead outside
the walls, or at all events at some distance
from the dwellings of the inhabitants. In
the middle ages, however, it became
customary to bury in cemeteries attached
to the churches, or even to deposit the
coffins in the vaults of the latter. The
first suburban cemetery of more recent
times is that of Bunhill Fields, which was
opened in 1665, and is deserving a visit
on account of the tombs of many pro-
minent dissenters who are buried there.
It is, however, a suburban cemetery no
longer, and like all the smaller cemeteries ;
has now been closed for a number of ;
years. The modern cemeteries of London j
are at some distance from the town, and
have been created, since 1832, by private
companies, who are controlled by Acts of
Parliament. The most important amongst
them are those of Kensal Green, towards j
the north-west, of Highgate, towards the
north (with fine view over London), and
of Norwood, towards the south of the
metropolis. These three should be
visited, and have been described in
chapters 44, 46 and 48.

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. Lon-
don is the seat of the highest tribunals of the j
Kingdom, and a building worthy of them
is now being erected in the Strand. For i
the present, the " Court of Appeal" sits in i
Lincoln's Inn, and the various Divisions of j
the newly-erected " High Court of Jus-
tice" sit in the Courts abutting upon
Westminster Hall, in Chancery-lane, Lin-
coln's Inn, or at Lambeth Palace, (Court
of Arches). The Central Criminal Court, \
Old Bailey (Plan H 5), which exercises a j
jurisdiction extending over the whole of j
Middlesex, and portions of Kent, Surrey,

and Essex, must be looked upon as a
branch of this High Court, and is presided
over by two judges from Westminster,
assisted by the Recorder and Common
Serjeant of the City. The usual Quarter
Sessions for the City of London, and the
Borough of Southwark, are held at the
Session's house, Old Bailey ; those for
Middlesex, at the Sessions House, Clerk-
enwell ; those for Surrey, at the Sessions
House, Newington Causeway ; and those
for the City of Westminster, at the Guild-
hall, near Westminster Abbey. The minoi
civil jurisdiction is entrusted to the Lord
Mayor's Court held at the Guildhall, under
the Recorder and Common Serjeant, and
to the City of London Court, as far as the
City is concerned ; to a Court of Burgesses
for the City of Westminster ; and to eleven
Metropolitan County Courts. In addition
to these there are 10 Coroner's Courts, 2
City Police Courts, (one presided over by
the Lord Mayor, another by an Alderman),
and 10 Metropolitan Police Courts.
Amongst the latter, that in Bow-street
(Plan G 5), is most deserving a visit.
Nearly all these courts are presided over
by paid judges or stipendiary magistrates,
and where this is not the case, the chair-
man enjoys the advice of a legally-trained
assistant judge or clerk.

In connection with the Courts for the
administration of justice, we may mention
the Inns of Court, which have been the
head-quarters of English lawyers from very
remote times. There are four of these
Inns, viz : The Inner Temple and Middle
Temple, Lincoln's Inn and Gray's Inn,
who hold the privilege of admitting
students to the Bar. Not many years ago
it was sufficient if the candidate paid the
customary fees, attended the term dinners
a prescribed number of times, was educa-
ted a trifle in advance of ordinary men,
and recommended by one of the benchers ;
but it is necessary no\v that he should pass
an examination, and the establishment of
a Law School in connection with these
Inns, has been taken in hand. In con-
nection with them there are eight so-called
Inns of Chancery, which are used as
chambers, principally by solicitors and
attorneys. Each Inn of Court is governed
by " Benchers/' who fill up vacancies in.
84

18. -CLUBS AND PLACES OP AMUSEMENT.

their own body from amongst barristers of
at least seven years standing.

There are eleven Prisons in London,
amongst which Newgate (Plan H 5), is
the most ancient. To persons interested
in the subject, a visit to Milbank Convict
Prison (Plan F 8), or to the Model Prison
at Pentonville (Plan G i), the former built

in the beginning of this century, according
to the plan of Jeremy Bentham, the latter
constructed in 184042. The old Debtors'
Prisons of the Fleet and Marshalsea, as
well as the Bridewell (thus named after a
well dedicated to St. Bridget), do not any
longer exist.

18. CLUBS AND PLACES OP AMUSEMENT.

CLUES. The modern clubs of London
are very different institutions from those
which existed during the i8th century.
At that time they were convivial meetings,
at a public tavern, confined to narrow
circles of friends, whilst now they number
their members by thousands, occupy mag-
nificent palaces, and levy entrance-fees and
subscriptions which would have been be-
yond the means of most of the frequenters
of the Clubs of olden times. In their
character the existing Clubs, nearly one
hundred in number, differ widely. Many
of them are the property of the members,
others (Proprietory Clubs) have been
established by speculators, by whom the
admission of members is relegated to a
committee. No member can be admitted
except he be " clubable," but in many
instances, particular qualifications are-re-
quired in addition tathis. There are clubs
for military and naval men, for medical
men, for lawyers, for travellers, for univer-
sity- graduates, for members of certain
political parties, &c. The finest Club-
houses are to be met with in Pall Mall and
vicinity, and several amongst them are
architectural ornaments to the Metropolis.

The following are some of the Leading
Clubs.

Name of Club.
Army nnd Navy
Athentbum
Carlton
Conservative
East India United Service
Junior Carlton .
Junior United Service
> aval and Military .
Oriental

Oxfcml and Cambridge
Keform
Travellers'
1'nited Service .
United University
Whitehall .

Club House.
Pall Mall
Waterloo Place
94, Pall Mall
74,. St. James's Street
St. James's Square
Pall Mall

Charles Street, St. James's
SH, Piccadilly
1H, Hanover Square
71, Pall Mafl
14, Pall Mall
10f>, Pall Mall
1 Ui, Pall Mall
Pull Mall East
Parliament Streei
The above were established between 1818 & 1860
they charge an entrance fee of from 28 7s., aud
an annual subscription of from 7 to 10 guineas

In addition to the above Clubs of the
Upper and Middle Classes, there have
been established within the last few years
no less than 37 Working Men's Clubs,
which offer conveniences similar to those
of the more expensive clubs. In connec-
tion with them there frequently exist even-
ing classes, and the religious element is
sometimes more obtrusive than desirable.
As a fair specimen of such a Club, we may
instance the " Grosyenor," 200, Bucking-
ham Palace-road (Plan E 7).

In conclusion, there ought to be men-
tioned the so-called Ltiscussion Clubs,
which meet at public-houses, and debate
various subjects of public interest in ;i
friendly manner. A club of this kind
meets on Tuesdays and Fridays, at 57,
Fleet-street ; another on Saturdays, at 8
p.m., at u, Shoe-lane. Strictly speaking,
these are no Clubs at all, for there re no
sort of membership, and any stranger may
take part in the debate going on, the only
condition being that he should submit to
the ruling of the chairman.

AMUSEMENTS. A glance at the ptoces
of amusements emunerated (chap 8) will,
convince the reader that London is well
supplied in this respect. As far as places
like the Crystal Palace, the Alexandra
Palace and the New Aquarium are con-
cerned, no other city in the world can
rival her. There are, besides, public
gardens of smaller extent,, numerous Con-
cert and Music Halls,, and over forty
Theatres. Dramatic .performances in
England assumed a purely secular
character at the time- of the reformation.
Regular play-houses were first built during
the reign of Queen- Elizabeth. They were
octagon in shapey gallery and stage were
covered in, but the pit . was. roofless to
86

19.-HOW TO SEE LONDON.

admit the light, and the performances
were carried on during the day. In 1640
the " long parliament " suspended all
plays as inconsistent in a time of public
calamity, but they were revived with
renewed ardour on the restoration, and
a visit to a play-house was looked upon
then as an act of loyalty. The oldest
amongst the existing Theatres, Drury-lane,

dates from the year 1663, the first actress
(Nell G wynne) made her appearance in
1662, and the first Italian Opera was per-
formed in 1705. Theatres require a licence
from the Lord Chamberlain, and the pieces
which they wish to perform must be
submitted to an " Examiner of Plays."
No Theatre is subsidized by government,
or from local rates.

WALKS & BJDT3S TELROUGKE LONDON.

19.-HOW TO SEE LONDON.

III. WALKS AND RIDES THROUGH
LONDON.

The tastes of travellers differ so widely,
and the time at their disposal, must
necessarily influence any scheme of
sightseeing to so large an extent, as to
render it impossible to lay down a plan
for seeing London, which can be expected
to meet fully the wishes of all travellers,
or even of a majority amongst them. In
our General Description of London, we
have already drawn attention to those
buildings and institutions, which may be
supposed to interest particular classes of
travellers, and further information will
be found in our directory (p. 21.) It will
hardly be possible to see every thing really
worth seeing in less than three weeks,
but sightseeing of this class, though it
may make the travellers acquainted with
many nooks and corners of the great
Metropolis, which are but rarely visited
by the town-born " Cockney," leads after
all to a superficial knowledge. To know
London thoroughly it is necessary to
reside there for some time, to enter its
society, to share in its work, its pleasures
and its griefs.

There are certain things which a stranger
must see, however short his stay. The
following walks, which it is just possible
to get through in a couple of days, will
take him past the principal sights of
London proper.

In the arrangement of our Walks we
have supposed the visitor to reside near
Charing Cross.

xst Day. Charing Cross (National Gallery),
down Whitehall to the Houses of Parliament

and Westminster Abbey, and back along the
ThamesJ Embankment and the New-street, to
Charing Cross.

Stroll through the West-end Parks, with
peeps into Belgrave-square, and some of the
streets of Belgravia, Mayfair and Tyburnia.

2nd Day. Charing Cross Strand Fleet-
street, (Temple, St. Paul's Cathedral) Bank
Monument London Bridge, (9.30 in morn-
ing, and 4 to 5 in evening best time), Lower
Thames-street, (Billingsgate, Custom House)
to Tower London Docks. Back to Tower
and with "Kilburn" Omnibus past the Bank to
Christ's Hospital, where descend. Smithfield
Market (Metropolitan Meat Market, St.
Bartholomew's). Holborn Viaduct. Peep
into Lincoln's Inn High Holbom British
Museum. Then take any Omnibus going
West, as far as Regent Circus. Regent-street
Piccadilly St. James's-street Pall Mall
Charing Cross.

But in addition to this, some of the prin-
cipal sights near London should be visited.
The following is a very hurried arrange-
ment :

^rd Day. Steamer to Woolwich, thence on
foot to Greenwich, and by rail back to London
Bridge, (see chapter 43). In the afternoon to
the Crystal Palace, (see chapter 44).

4th Day.KQVf, Richmond, Hampton Court
(see chapter 45).

$th Day. Windsor and Virginia Water,
(see chapter 47).

This programme is sufficiently extended
to fill a week, for the traveller must con-
sider himself fortunate if his sight seeing
is not occasionally interrupted by rain, nor
can he count the days of arrival or of
departure as full days.

A Fortnight in London, A far more

19. HOW TO SEE LONDON.

satisfactory arrangement can be made if
the visitor devotes a fortnight to the
metropolis and its vicinity. In the arrange-
ment of our routes we have specially
considered the requirements of this class
of travellers. Our routes are arranged in
a consecutive order; that is, the visitor
may begin on the first page of part III.
and walk right through until he reaches
the last. The majority of the buildings
and museums have been described in the
course of our walks or rides, and only
the most important amongst them, an
inspection of which takes up a consider-
able amount of time, have been referred
to separate chapters. A capital oppor-
tunity for witnessing the general features
of London, and the life pulsating through
its streets, is afforded by a ride on the
top of an omnibus. Our " Criss-cross
Track through London " described below,
contains hints on such a journey, which
may easily be performed in a day, and
has been arranged with the special view
of taking the visitors into parts of the
town to which our " Walks and Rides " do
not extend.

A few hours on Saturday evening may
profitably be spent in Whitechapel and
Shoreditch, in the east end (Plan K 4 and
L 5,) or in the Lower Marsh and New
Cut of Lambeth (Plan H 7,) which are
then crowded by the working classes,
and these excursions may be combined
with a visit to one or more peoples'
Theatres and Music Halls.

ist Day. Stroll through London and
" Criss-Cross Track" (see chapter 20).

2nd Day. Trafalgar Square to Westminster
Abbey (chapter 21). Chelsea, Battersea and
Cremorne (chapter 22).

3rd Day. West-end Parks Kensington
Museum (chapter 23).

4th Day. St. James's (chapter 24).

Regents Park and Zoological Gardens (chapter

25).

5th Day. Belgravia May fair and Tybur-
nia, with an excursion to Kensal Green Ceme-
tery (chapter 26).

CENTRAL LONDON.

6th Day. Covent Garden Lincoln's Inn
Foundling Hospital King's Cross Univer-
sity College Russell-square British Museum,
&c. (chapter 27).

CITY AND E.AST END, &C.

7th Day. Strand Fleet-street St. Paul's
Cathedral Bank (chapters 28 and 29).

Guildhall - Smithfield Holborn Viaduct.
Bunhill Cemetery, &c. (chapter 30). Queen
Victoria-street and Thames Embankment to
Charing Cross {chapter 30).

8th Day.'Qy Rail to Blackfriars, thence
along Lower Thames-street to Tower. London
Docks. Tower-street and Cannon-street to
Bank (chapters 32 and 33).

qth Day. Over Westminster Bridge Lam-
bfeth Palace Bethlehem Hospital Obelisk
St. Olaves, Borough of Southwark Barclay
and Perkins's Brewery Over London Bridge
to the Bank (chapter 34).

Bank to Victoria Park and back (chap. 35).

A Saturday would be most favourable for
this trip.

ENVIRONS OF LONDON.

/o//; Day. Woolwich and Greenwich
(chapter 43).

nth Day. Dulwich, Norwood and Crystal
Palace (chapter 44).

isth Day. Hampstead, Highgate and
Alexandra Palace (chapter 46).

ijth Day. Kew, Richmond and Hampton
Court (chapter 45).

1 4th Day. Windsor (chapter 47).

Several more days may be spent profit-
ably as a matter of course. A somewhat
minute inspection of the Museums, for in-
stance, requires more time than we have
allowed, and Brighton, Gravesend, Dork-
ing, and other charming spots within easy
reach, hold out great inducements to visi-
tors (see chapter 49).

20. A CRISS-CROSS THACK. LONDON.

4@- The "Track'-' described has a
length of 48 miles, and may be performed
partly by steamer, partly on the outside of
an omnibus, and to a very small extent on
foot. We shall subsequently have an
opportunity of inspecting many of the
streets and public buildings more minutely ;
where this is not the case, and an inter-
ruption of the journey appears desirable,
we have drawn attention to the fact.

(A). Charing Cross to Blackwall, S}4
miles. Walk down to the Chai ing Cross
Bridge, and take a steamer for Blackwall.
They start every half hour, beginning at
8.10 a.m., and perform the journey in about
one hour.

(B). Blackball to St. Paul's (Plan I 5),
4^ miles. Walk to the " Globe Tavern/'
Brunswick-street, Blackwall, and take
omnibus "Black-Mall" (dark blue). We
now start upon a journey which takes us
from the extreme east of London, through
the centre of the City, to the extreme
West. The East India Docks are on our
right ; the West India Docks on our left.
We pass the church of St. Stephen's and
the Poplar Recreation Grounds, and im-
mediately beyond Limehouse Church
(built 1712-24 by Hawkesmoor), we cross
the Limehouse Canal, and then the
Regent's Canal. Commercial-road East
brings us to Whitechapel-road, and soon
afterwards we reach Aldgate, the site of
one of the ancient City gates. Our omni-
bus continues its journey through Leadcn-
hall-street to the Bank, and thence
through Cheapside to St. ^Paul's, where
we alight.

(c). St. Paul's to Hammersmith (Plan
beyond A 8), 7 miles. Omnibus, " Ham-
mersmith " (red). This omnibus takes us
down Ludgate-hill, through Fleet-street
and the Strand to Charing-cross, and up
Regent-street to Piccadilly-circus. Soon
after the view opens on the left over Green
Park, with the towers of Westminster
peeping out above the trees. We reach
Hyde Park Corner, and ride along the
southern side of Hyde Park, from which
we are separated, for some distance, by
private houses and cavalry barracks.
Belgravia, one of the most fashionable
quarters of London, and Bromptcn, are
on our left. We pass between the mag-

nificent Albert Memorial 2xA Albert Hall,.
and enter Kensington. The new parish
church was built by Sir G. Scott. Hol-
land House on the right (interruption of
the journey hardly to be recommended).

Holland House was built in 1607 by John
Thorpe, for Sir Walter Cope, and passed by
marriage into the possession of Henry Rich,
Earl of Holland, (beheaded 1649, for aiding
Charles I.) The widow of Robert Rich, in
1716, married Addison, the poet, who resided
here until his death. Subsequently the house
was sold to Henry Fox, father of Charles James
Fox, and the first Lord Holland of that name.
He died in 1774, and during his life, Holland
House was the meeting place of Whig politi-
cians, poets, painters and scholars.

We continue our journey. At Brook
Green, on the right, there is a Roman
Catholic convent with school. We enter
Hammersmith, and descend on reaching
the corner of Gold Hawk-road.

(D.) Hammersmith to Bank, j% miles.
It is necessary now to walk to Starch
Green (half a mile), where we find an-
omnibus " Bayswater " (light green),
which takes us back to the Bank, along
one of the main arteries of London. We
pass through Shepherd's Bush and the
not very inviting High-street of Notting-
hill, and then skirt the northern side of
Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. At
the Marble Arch we enter Oxford-street,
one of the principal business streets of
London, which is crossed by Regent-
street at the Oxford-circus. Our ride
takes us through Hoi born, and we cross
Farringdon-street on a viaduct, one of the
most important metropolitan improve-
ments effected by the Board of Works.
Newgate Prison is on our right, Christ's
Hospital and further on the Genera!
Post Office on the left. Cheapside brings
us to the Bank.

(E). Bank to Hoiloivay (Plan, beyond
G i), 4 miles. We mount either the
omnibus " Favorite" (dark green), or, and
this is preferable, walk to Moorgate-strcct
(^s mile), and there take tram-car "Arch-
way, Angel, and Moorgate" (dark blue).
Moorgate-strect leads to Finsbury-squarc.
A little beyond it, on the left, are the
London Militia Barracks, with entrance
to the Artillery Company's ground, and
Bunhill Fields Burial Ground. ] ooking,
92

20.-A CRISS-CROSS TRACK.-LONDON.

down Old-street, on the left, we see the
front of Sf. Luke's Lunatic Asylum. We
enter City-road '(in it the "Eagle Tavern,"
a popular place of entertainment), cross
the City Basin of the Regent's Canal, and
reach the " Angel," one of the centres of
omnibus traffic. Thence our road leads
through Islington (the insignificant statue
on Islington-green represents Sir Hugh
Myddleton, the creator of the New River
'Water Works ; the Agricultural Hall is
close by), pass through Islington and the
Holloway-road, and descend on reaching
the " Nag's Head," at the corner of Seven
.Sisters'-road.

(F). Holloway to Euston Road, (Plan E
.3), 3 miles. We mount a tram car, u Hol-
loway, Brecknock, Euston" (green). We
ride along Camden Park-road. The fine
castellated building on the right is the City
of London Prison, built 1853-55, by
Running. On reaching the "Brecknock
Arms," we break the journey in order to
pay a flying visit to the Cattle Market,
-which is close by.

The Metropolitan Cattle Markci, which was
formerly held on Smithfield, was removed to
its present site in 1855. It covers an area of
30 acres, of which about 15 are enclosed. A
clock-tower, with telegraph and banker's offices
rises in the centre ; a public house occupies
each corner, and slaughter-houses and stables
surround it. There is standing room for 7,600
beasts, 40,000 sheep, 1,400 calves and 900 pigs,
-which far exceeds the present demand. The
market was built by the City (architect, Mr.
Bunning), at a cost of nearly .500,000, and
the corporation levies a toll of id. for each
Least, and of 2d. for 20 sheep. The market
receipts, in 1874, were 37,352, the charges
for its maintenance amounted to 34,743.
The principal market day is Monday. A horse
market is held on Fridays.

We resume our journey. Passing be-
neath a railway bridge and crossing, for
the third time, the Regent's Canal, we
reach the " Britannia" and " Mother Red
Cap," two well-known public-houses in
Camden Town, and travel thence along
High-street, (poor statue of Cobclen), and
Hampstead-road to Euston-road, where we
leave the car.

(G). Euston Road to Victoria Station,

(Plan E 7), 3 miles. Take either of the
yellow omnibus, except the one inscribed
" Camden Town, Duke of St. Alb arts"
We pass through Tottenham Court Road.
On the right, the chapel built in 1756, for
J. Whitfield, one of the founders of Metho-
dism. J. Bacon, the sculptor, lies buried in
it. We cross Oxford-street, and enter St.
Giles's, one of the poorest parishes of
London. The fine church on the right
was built in 1753, by Flitcroft. Flaxman,
the sculptor, is buried in it. We pass the
" Seven Dials," and finally reach Trafalgar-
square, after which we continue our
journey along Whitehall, past Westminster
Abbey, and along Victoria-street to the
Victoria Station.

(G.) Victoria Station to New Cross
Gate, (Plan N 10), 5 miles. We mount the
tram car near the Station, and take a
through ticket for New Cross Gate, (6d).
The Car follows the Vauxhall Bridge-road.
Vauxhall Bridge is crossed in an ordinary
omnibus. In the course of our journey we
pass the Kennington Oval, a favourite
cricket ground. At St. Mark's Church
we are close to Kennington gate (now re-
moved), where the roads to Brixton and
Clapham bifurcate. Kennington Park
lies to the left. We continue along the
Camberwell New-road as far as Camber-
well Green, where we are, transferred to
another Car, "Peckham and Westminster?
(brown). On the right, Camberwell Church
(architect, Sir G. Scott). The car takes
us through Peckham and Hatcham to our
destination.

(H.) New 'Cross Gate to the Elephant
and Castle (Plan G 7), 3 miles. We wait
for a white omnibus " Greenwich and
Westminster? We pass along Old
Kent-road. On the left, in a side street,
the Licensed Victiialler? Asylum (Plan
M 10). Then over the Surrey Canal, and
through New Kent-road to the " Elephant
and Castle Tavern," (Plan I 8.)

(l). Elephant and Castle to Charing
Cross, 1 3^ miles, omnibus, " Waterloo?
(blue). We pass along London-road to
the Obelisk (where there is a School for
the Blind), and then along Waterloo-road,
over Waterloo Bridge and along the
Strand to Charing-cross.

21. TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Ig^f Royal College of Physicians. Admis-
sion by order of a Fellow.

United Service Institution. Order of a
member.

Whitehall Chapel. Divine service, Sundays
II to 12.30; shown daily on payment of
gratuity.

Houses of Parliament. Saturdays, 104.

Westminster Abbey. Daily.

Aquarium. Daily.

Trafalgar Square has been called by
Sir Robert Peel the finest site in Europe,
but we doubt whether the most has been
made of its undoubted advantages. If we
take up our position in front of the
National Gallery, which bounds it on the
north, we command a view of Charing
Cross, of Whitehall, with the Towers of
Westminster rising in the distance, and of
the new Thames Embankment approach,
a street to which Northumberland House,
one of the few ancient mansions of the
nobility of which London could boast, fell
a sacrifice, in 1875.

Northumberland House was built by Henry
Howard, Earl of Northampton, and in 1642
it became the property of Algernon Percy,
Earl of Northumberland, whose lion crest, sur-
mounting the gateway, formed one of the land-
marks of London. In 1875, ^ was so ^ to tlle
Board of Works for ,497,000.

The Nelson Column occupies the centre
of the square, and is flanked by statues
of General Sir Charles Napier (by G.
Adams), and of General Havelock
(by Bchnes). An equestrian statue of
George IV. (by Chantrey), occupies a
pedimert in the upper part of the square.

The Nelson Column is dedicated to one of
England's greatest naval heroes, whose destruc-
tion of the combined French and Spanish fleets
at Trafalgar (in 1805), was accomplished at
the sacrifice of his own life. The column de-.
signed by Railton, rises to a height of 145 feet.
It is of Portland stone, with a bronze capital
cast from French guns,- surmounted by,a statue
of Nelson, 17 feet in height (by E. H. Baily).
Four colossal lions, (by Sir Edwin Landseer),
occupy the salient pedestals at its base. The
four bas-reliefs represent the battle of the
Nile (by Woodington) ; the bombardment of
Copenhagen (by Ternouth) ; the battle of St.
Vincent (by Watson) ; and the Death of Nel-
son (by Carew). The monument cost above
50,000, most of which was raised by public
subscription. i

Amongst the buildings surrounding the
Square, that of the National Gallery is the
most extensive. It was erected in 1832-38,
by W. Wilkins, and is certainly unde-
serving so fine a position (see chap. 42).

St. Martins Church, in the north-
eastern corner of the square, with its fine
portico and well-proportioned Tower, is
looked upon as Gibbs' masterpiece, and
was built 1721-26. The portico and well-
proportioned tower are much admired.
Amongst the persons buried in this church
were Dobson, the painter ; Roubiliac, the
sculptor ; Nell Gwynne, the mistress of
Charles II, and Jack Sheppard, the
notorious thief.

The Royal College of Physicians, on the
opposite side of the square, with a fine
portico towards Pall Mall East, was built
by Smirke, and opened in 1835. It con-
tains a few portraits and busts of celebrated
medical men.

The College was founded in 1518, by
Linacre, physician to Henry VIII., and
authorised by letters patent to grant certifi-
cates to medical practicioners, a privilege still
exercised. Persons desirous of becoming
members or licentiates of the college are
obliged to pnss an examination. The "Fel-
lows " are the governing body, and recruit
themselves from amongst the members.

CHARING CROSS, the triangular space
between Trafalgar-square and Whitehall,
is named after a village, Charing, which
has long since disappeared. In it stood the
last of the crosses erected by Edward I.
96

21.-TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

to mark the spot where the body of his
Queen, Eleanor, was rested on its way to
Westminster Abbey.

A reproduction of this Cross lias been placed
in front of Charing Cross Station.

The equestrian statue of Charles I. (by
Hubert Le Sceur) was cast in 1633, but
sold by Parliament to a brazier to be
broken up. It was preserved, however,
and set up after the Restoration, in 1676,
at the expense of the Crown. It occupies
the spot where the " Regicides," who had
voted for the king's execution, were
cruelly tortured to death.

WHITEHALL, the widest street in Lon-
don, and with its many public buildings
certainly one of the finest, owes its name to
an old palace, originally the property of
Cardinal Wolsey, but given by him to
Henry VIII., and down to William III.
the ordinary town residence of the kings
of England. James I. proposed to rebuild
this palace on a magnificent scale ; but
only the Banqueting Hall was completed,
and its beauty makes us all the more
regret that the design of Inigo Jones was
not carried out in its entirety. In the
reign of William III. the old palace was
destroyed by fire, and the king removed
to St. James's Palace ; but royal procla-
mations, by a fiction which foreigners will
hardly be able to appreciate, are still dated
from Whitehall.

A proposition for widening the street as
far as the Houses of Parliament, and con-
centrating in it the principal- government
offices, was submitted in 1868, and is now
in course of execution, at an estimated
cost of 3,32 1,910.

The first large building on the right is
the Admiralty, erected in 1726, separated
from the street by a fine screen, the work
of the brothers Adam (1776).

On the opposite side of the street is a
gateway which leads into Scotland-yard,
the head-quarters of the metropolitan
police.

The Horse Guards, a picturesque pile
(architect, Kent, 1753), are the head-
quarters of several military departments,
and owe their curious name to the
mounted guards performing the duties of
sentries. The gateway beneath the clock
tower leads into St. James's Park; walk

1 97

through and then return to Whitehall.
Opposite the Horse Guards stands

Whitehall Chapel, the Banqueting
Hall of the new Palace of Whitehall
referred to above, which is looked upon as
one of the most successful works of Inigo
Jones (1619-22), who first introduced
Palladio's style of architecture into
England. The hall is no ft. long, 55 ft.
wide, and 55 ft. high. The paintings on
the ceiling are by Reubens, and represent
the apotheosis of James I.

From an opening made in the wall of this
building Charles I., in 1642, stepped upon the
scaffold.

The passage to the left of Whitehall
Chapel leads to Whitehall-yard, in which
stands the United Service Institution, the
property of a professional society of offi-
cers of the Army and Navy, established
in 1831, and numbering more than 4,000
members. It contains a library of 20,000
volumes, and an interesting museum.

In the latter will be found a valuable collec-
tion of arms (swords of Cromwell and Nelson),
models of the battles of Trafalgar, Waterloo
(with 190,000 figures !), of the siege of
Sebastopol, and others.

Passing in rear of Whitehall chapel we
enter Whitehall-gardens, with a fine statue
of James II. (jby Grinling Gibbons). In
the house with bow-windows (behind the
trees) Sir Robert Peel died in 1850.

We now return to Whitehall. The
house next to the Horse Guards, with a
portico, is Lord Dover's town residence,
and next to it stand the Treasury biiildings,
thus called because they contain the offices
of the First Lord of the Treasury, or Prime
Minister. The core of this building is
old, and its present fagade was fitted to it
in 1846-7 by Sir Charles Barry.

Opposite to the Treasury buildings,
separated from the street by a garden,
stands Montagii House (architect, W.
Burn, 1859-62), the town residence of the
Duke of Buccleuch.

Downing Street, in which there are the
offices of the Chancellor of the Exchequer,
separates the Treasury from the New
Government Offices, which were erected
1868-74 (architect, Sir G. Scott), and ex-
tend from Parliament-street (the southern
continuation of Whitehall) to St. James's-
98

21.-TRAFALGAR SQUARE TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

park. The principal front towards the
former is 317 feet long, is stately, of fine
proportions and richly ornamented. The
great quadrangle is one of the finest in
London, and should be inspected. (It is
at all times open to the public). The
Court of the India office has been
decorated in the most lavish manner by
Digby Wyatt.

This building affords accommodation to the
Home, Colonial, Foreign and India Offices,
the latter occupying the portion facing St.
James's Park. The architect's original plans,
were gothic, but were set aside by Lord
Palmerston, whilst Mr. Ayrton, unfortunately
Minister of Public "Works at the time the
building was erected, "impatient of ideas of
beauty " involving an expenditure of money,
shore the new Italian design of some of its
most distinctive features.

In the narrow King-street, which opens
here (but is about to disappear) died Spenser,
the author of " Faerie Queen," from "lack of
bread."

We now continue through Parliament-
street (on the left, back of the National
Opera House) until we reach the open
space near the Houses of Parliament arid
Westminster Abbey, viz., Parliament
Square.

1 The Houses of Parliament and West-
minster Abbey will be described in chap.
36 and 37. The street on the left leads
to Westminster bridge and the Thames
embankment, that on the right to St.
James's Park. On the square are statues of
J. Canning (by R. Westmacott), Palmers-
ton (by Foley) and Lord Derby.

After an inspection of the Houses of
Parliament we proceed in the direction of
Westminster Abbey, which is concealed
in part, by St. Margaret's Church, an
insignificent building, dating from the
time of Edward IV., and restored in 1805.

- It contains a stained window intended by the
Town Council of Dordrecht as a present for
Henry VII., but only completed after his
death. Henry VIII. took offence at it, on
account of its containing portraits of Prince
Arthur and his wife Catherine, and he allowed
the Abbot of Waltham to appropriate it.
After having passed through the hands of
several proprietors it was purchased by the
vestry of St. Margaret and placed in its present
position. Caxton and Sir Walter Raleigh are

buried in the church, and there are tablets in
their memory, and in the adjoining churchyard
lie the remains of Cromwell's mother,
daughter and sister, of Admiral Blake, and of
others distinguished during the Common-
wealth, whose bodies were removed thither
from Westminster Abbey after the restoration.

The Westminster Memorial, a column
surmounted by a statue of St. George, was
erected in commemoration of the West-
minster scholars who fell in the Crimea
and during the Indian mutiny. It is by
Sir G. Scott.

Westminster Hospital, the oldest Lon-
don Hospital supported by voluntary con-
tributions (established in 1 7 1 9) lies opposite.
At its back is Her Majesty's Stationery
Office, which supplies all Government
departments with stationery, and to the
right of it, stands Westminster GttildJiall,
in which the business of the City of West-
minster is transacted.

The massive building towards the left
is the

ROYAL AQUARIUM (architect, R. Bed-
borough), which is well deserving a visit.

Admission is. Billiard and Reading Rooms.
Excellent Restaurant (table d'hote 55.) Con-
certs at 4 and 8.30 (director, A. Sullivan).

The building covers a plot of ground
600 feet long, and 430 feet deep. The
large hall is 340 feet long, 160 feet wide
and 78 feet high. The numerous tanks
are arranged on both sides of it, and are
supplied with water from a subterranean
reserve tank holding 730,000 gallons of
water. On the galleries a valuable exhi-
bition of pictures and sculpture. The
building contains likewise a theatre,
capable of seating 2000 persons, a skating
rink, &c.

Tothill-street, in front of the Aquarium,
leads to the mean York Street, at one time
called Petty France, where Milton lived in a
garden house. At 2, Queen Square Place,
which leads from it towards St. James's Park,
lived Jeremy Bentham.

We now inspect Westminster Abbey
(chap. 36 ) and WESTMINSTER SCHOOL.
A gateway opposite the Westminster Me-
morial leads into Dean's yard, used as a
play ground. A small gateway leads
thence into Little Dean's, or school-yard.
Westminster School, or St. Peter's College
100

22. WESTMINSTER, CHELSEA AND BATTERSEA.

v.-as founded in 1560 by Queen Elizabeth,
and there are on the foundation a dean,
12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40
Queen's scholars, with a master, and an
usher. There are now nineteen masters
and a considerable number of town boys
or oppidans, in addition to the foundation
scholars, who are recruited amongst them
after an examination conducted by the
boys themselves. This examination forms
a most curious feature in the management
of the school. At the commencement of
Lent, the boys aspiring to the honour of
becoming Queen's Scholars, announce
themselves as candidates to the head-
master. They pass through an arduous
training under the guidance of a senior
boy, and on the day of trial, the youngest
amongst the lot, may challenge his seniors
to answer any questions respecting a
lesson set by the head-master, who acts
as judge, and those amongst them who
are most successful in meeting repeated
challenges gain the coveted place on the
college-roll. On the first Tuesday after
Rogation Sunday, an examination takes
place for scholarships, four boys pro-
ceeding to Trinity College, Cambridge,
and four to Christ College, Oxford. The
school is partially supported from the
Cathedral revenues, but town boys as well
as Queen's scholars, have nevertheless to

pay heavily for their education. In the
old Dormitory of the College, which was
built in the time of Dean Attenbury, from
a design by the Earl of Burlington in 1722,
the boys annually at Christmas perform a
play of Terrence, with a Latin prologue and
epilogue relating to events of the day.
This is an old custom. The first scenery
was prepared under the direction of no less
a man than David Garrick. The parents
of the boys, old Westminster scholars and
many persons of eminence attend, and
when the " Captain's cap" is sent round at
the close of the performance, donations
flow liberally. The expense of the play
having been defrayed, the surplus is divided
amongst the senior Queen's scholars. The
College Hall was originally the Abbot's
refectory, and dates from the time of
Edward III. The old louvre, through
which the smoke used to escape, still exists.
The Schoolroom\n&<*. dormitory belonging
to the Abbey.

Amongst eminent masters of the school were
Camden, the antiquary ; and Dr. Busby, noted
for his birch. The poets Ben Jonson, George
Herbert, Fletcher, Cowley, Dryden, Prior,
Cowper and Southey ; Sir Christopher Wren,
the architect ; Gibbon, the historian; Locke,
the philosopher; South, Warren Hastings,
Hackluyt, the collector of voyages, the elder
Colman, Lord Russell, and many other men of
eminence were educated at it.

22.-WESTMINSTER, CHELSEA AND BATTERSEA

Hal? a Mile/

t@" Either by steamer from Westminster
Bridge to Cadogan Pier, or Underground
(Metropolitan) Railway to Sloane-square
Station ; or on foot, as described below (2^
miles to the Hospital).

JOI

Westminster and Chelsea are amongst

the poorest quarters of the town, and with

the exception of the buildings already

known to us, there is only Chelsea Hos-

102

22.-WESTMINSTEK, CHELSEA, AND BATTERSEA.

pital which appears to be deserving the
attention of the ordinary visitor. There
nevertheless are some other buildings
which may interest the more inquiring
traveller, and the following walk has
been arranged with special reference to
him :

We start from the sanctuary, West-
minster Abbey, and proceed at first along
Victoria-street. On the right the palatial
Westminster Hotel, on the left fine ranges
of offices. Lower down the street there
are big dwelling-houses, arranged in flats,
in the continental style. When com-
pleted, this will certainly form one of the
most imposing thoroughfares of London.
On the right, Christ Church, a modern
Gothic edifice, built 1843.

Beyond it, Palmer's Alms-Jiotises, founded
1654; and up Buckingham -row, Emanuel
Hospital; founded 1594 by Lady Dacre, with
alms-houses and a school.

Artillery row, opposite, takes us to two
similar institutions, viz. : the Green Coat
School, founded 1633, and the Grey Coat
Hospital, founded 1698. The high walls
of the New Bridewell, a house of cor-
rection for female prisoners, rise above
the former.

In Rochester-row, St. Stephen's Church,
(Architect, B. Ferry), built 1847-9, m tne
Gothic style of the I4th century, at the
expense of Baroness Burdett Coutts. The
tower rises to a height of 200 feet. The
interior is worth inspection. Opposite to
the church are Hill's- A Imshouses, founded
in 1708.

We cross Vincent - square, the play- j
ground of the Westminster scholars, and
Vauxhall Bridge-road, and proceed to
St. James's Chunch, Garden-street, a taste- j
ful building, in black and red bricks, with
a Campanila tower, 134 feet in height,
(architect, G. E. Street).

Moreton and Lupus-street take us thence j
to the Chelsea Embankment, 4,126 feet in j
length, constructed at a cost of ,271,183.
We pass Victoria Railway Bridge, (En-
gineer, O. Fowler, cost 90,000), and one
of the pumping stations of the Main
Drainage Works (where the sewage of
a large portion of London is lifted 18 feet
into the Low Level sewer carried under-
neath the embankment), and reach the
103

Chelsea Suspension Bridge, which is 951
feet in length, and was built 1857-8, by
T. Page, for a private company, at a cost
of 84,319.

We now leave the river, and passing
along the barracks, which occupy the site
of the once famous Ranelagh Gardens,
reach CHELSEA HOSPITAL (Plan D 9).

Admission Daily, to the Gardens free ; to
the Chapel and Hall on payment of a gratuity.

The hospital was founded by Charles
II., for old and disabled soldiers, it is
said at the suggestion of Nell Gwynne,
and was built 1681-90, by Sir Christopher
Wren, who likewise laid down the rules
for its internal economy. About 500
invalids (in-pensioners) live in it, and
there are about 62,000 out-pensioners. It
is an imposing edifice, of red brick with
stone facings, consisting of a centre and
two wings, each 365 feet in length. We
enter by the main entrance, beneath a
pediment borne by four columns. On the
left the Chapel, with altar-piece by Sebas-
tian Ricci, and 55 colours, mostly taken
from the French. The Hall, on the
opposite side of the passage, contains a
portrait of Charles II., on horseback, by
Verrio and Cooke, and 46 colours taken
from the enemy. The body of the Duke
of Wellington lay in state here. In the
Quadrangle, facing the gardens, a statue ;
of Charles II., by Grinling Gibbons, and
several guns captured at Waterloo. The
Gardens are laid out with much taste. In
their centre, an obelisk in memory of 255
officers and men of the 24th Regiment,,
who fell at Chilian walla (1849).

The Royal Military Asylum, founded
in i>Soi by the Duke of York, is near
Chelsea Hospital. It educates 458 orphan
children of British soldiers, most of whom
join the army on leaving the school, and
is supported by parliamentary grants.

We now proceed along Queen's-road
to Cheyne-walk. On the road we pass
the Botanical Gardens of the Company
of Apothecaries, laid out in 1763, and
containing a few cedars now nearly 200
years old, and a statue of Sir Hans
Sloane, by Rysbrack.

Cheyne-walk may still boast of a few-
houses dating from the time of Charles II.
104.

23. THE WEST-END PARKS.

Sir Thomas More, inhabited a house above
the Church, where he was visited by Holbein
and Erasmus of Rotterdam. His monument
is in the church -yard. Thomas Carlyle lives
at 5, Great Cheyne-row, which opens upon
Cheyne-walk.

We cross Albert Suspension Bridge,
787 feet long, (opened 1873, engineer, R.
M. Ordish), to

BATTERSEA PARK, which covers an area
of 1 80 acres and was laid out, 1852-58.
It covers the site of the old " Battersea-
fields," a low and marshy region, much of
it below the level of the river, and at one
time the resort of duellists (Wellington
and the Earl of Winchelsea fought here).
About a million cubic yards of earth
were brought from the Victoria Docks,
which were then being excavated, and
from other sources, and the Park is now
certainly one of the finest in London, and
should be explored in all its parts. The
visitor should not omit visiting the Drive

along the Thames, with fine views upon
Chelsea, the Apothecaries' Botanical Gar-
dens and Cheyne-walk ; the Avenue of
lime trees in the centre of the Park ; the
Rosary Mo^md; the Sub-tropical Gardens
near the lake, covering nearly 4 acres ;
the Peninsula and Alpine Point at its
eastern extremity, the latter a miniature
representation of Alpine scenery.

Persons interested in the welfare of the
working classes may deem it worth while to
pay a visit to Shaftesbury Park, which lies
about half-a-mile from the south-western
entrance of the Park. It is a workmen's city,
consisting of 1200 small houses, a school, a
lecture hall and reading room, and a co-
operative store, but not a single public-house.
The houses contain 5 to 8 rooms each, are let,
at 15 to 20 a year, and may be purchased
by the occupiers by monthly instalments.

The evening might be spent at the Cremorne
Gardens, which are f miles from Battersea
Park, and may be reached by steamer.

23.-THE WEST-END PARKS.

S^H" A band performs in Kensington gardens
on Tuesdays and Fridays from 4 to 7 p.m.
Rotten-row should be seen between 4 and 6 in
the afternoon. Cabs are not admitted to it.

The visit to these Parks should be combined
with that to the South Kensington and India
Museums, the Horticultural Society's Gardens,
the Albert Hall, &c. (see chapter 41), and will
then occupy a full day. We first walk through
St. James's Park, then along the Western and
Northern sides of Green Park. At Hyde Park
Corner we take an omnibus ( " Brompton"
"Favorite," "Islington and Brompton" or
"Putney") which takes us along Brompton-
road, past the Brompton Oratory, to the
Museum (Restaurant);

These West-end Parks extend from the
vicinity of Gharing Cross to the suburb
of Kensington, a distance of 2# miles,
and cover an area of 7 1 8 acres.

105

ST. JAMES'S PARK (58 acres) istheoldcst
amongst all the London Parks, and was
laid out originally by Henry VIII. when
he built St. James's Palace on the site of
an old hospital for lepers. Charles II.
much improved the Park, employing for
that purpose the celebrated French gar-
dener, Le Notre. He formed a Mall,
where he was able to play his favourite
106

'23 .-THE WEST-END PARKS.

game Pele-mele, a sort of croquet, estab-
lished aviaries (hence the modern Bird-
cage-walk) and excavated several ponds.
"William III. first opened the Park to the
public, and in George IV.'s time it was
remodelled by Nash, the architect.

The centre of the Park the "Enclo-
sure ' consists of a fine garden, with a
sheet of ornamental water, animated by
rare water-fowl (a breeding-house of the
Ornithological Society stands on the is-
land of the lake). On the east, the Park
is bounded by the new Government offices
(India Office), the Horse Guards and other
Government buildings (chap. 20).

The " Parade " in front of the Horse Guards
was the Tilt Yard of the old Palace of White-
hall. On it a mortar, cast at Seville by order
of Napoleon, employed by the French during
the seige of Cadiz, and abandoned by them at
Salamanca. It threw a shell weighing 108 Ibs.
a distance of 6,220 yards. The mortar car-
riage was made at Woolwich, and represents the
destruction of the Tyrant of Gades (Napoleon),
by Hercules (Wellington). On the other side
is a Turkish gun taken from the French in
Egypt, and bearing an inscription in Arabic :
' ' May Allah send my ball into the faces of the
pork-eaters ! "

The south side of the Park is bounded
by Birdcage Walk; the north side by
four avenues of fine trees, mostly elms,
called the Mall. The fine houses in
Carlton House Terrace, the Duke of
York's column, Marlborough House and
St. James's Palace (chap. 24) are seen
from the Mall.

At the western end of the Park stands
BUCKINGHAM PALACE, the town residence
of the Queen since 1837. It occupies
the site of an old mansion of the Duke
of Buckingham. The front, towards the
Palace Gardens, is by John Nash (1825),
that towards St. James's Park by Blore
(1846-51).

The interior contains several fine rooms, but
can only be inspected by special permission of
the Lord Chamberlain. On the ground floor
arc a sculpture gallery and the library. Broad
marble stairs lead to the first floor. The stair-
case is ornamented with frescoes by Stothard,
representing Morning, Noon, Evening and
Night. The Green Drawing Room is 50 feet
long, and 32 feet in height. The adjoining
future Gallery is 1 80 feet in length, and con-
I0 7

tains a most valuable collection of paintings,
principally by Dutch and Flemish masters.
The Great Saloon is used for concerts. The
Throne Room is 64 feet in length, and orna-
mented with a marble frieze representing the
Wars of the Roses, by Stothard and Baily.
It is hung with crimson satin. The Ball-room
was completed only in 1856, from a design by
Pennethorne.

In the Palace Gardens is the Quern's Sum-
iner-house, with frescoes illustrating Milton's
Comus. A high mound of earth separates the
Gardens from the Royal Mews, where several
curious stage coaches may be seen including
the one painted in 1762 by Cipriani.

GREEN PARK (60 acres) is triangular in
shape, and connects St. James' Park with
Hyde Park. It is bounded on the north
by Constitution Hill, a road skirting the
wall of the Buckingham Palace Gardens,

(near it is Hyde Park, where Sir Robert
Peel was thrown from his horse, in 1850,
and killed, and the Queen has been re-
peatedly fired at). We skirt the eastern
and northern sides of the park, which
gives us an opportunity of seeing several
of the finest mansions of the nobility, and
affords a fine view over St. James's Park,
as far as the towers of Westminster.

At the corner of St. James's Park and
Green Park is Stafford House, the resi-
dence of the Duke of Sutherland,originally
built for the Duke of York, (Architect,
Benjamin Wyatt). It contains a most
valuable collection of paintings, those by
Spanish masters being the most impor-
tant. After t\vo openings, Bridgewater
House, (Earl of Ellesmere), built 1846-51,
from designs by Sir Charles Barry, con-
taining one of the finest private collections
of pictures in existence (see chapter 7).
Then follows Spencer House, the residence
1 08

23. THE WEST-END PARKS.

of Earl Spencer. Then a narrow opening,
and a house with bow windows, the resi-
dence of Rogers the poet (and of Addison?)
Higher up are Vernon House (residence
of Lord Redesdale), Yarborough House
(built by Kent, for Henry Pelham), the
residence of the Marquis of Salisbury and
others.

On going up the steps, at the end of
this walk, we find ourselves facing Devon-
shire House, a fine brick-building, built by
William Kent, for the third Duke of
Devonshire, and which occupies the site
of Old Berkeley House, burnt in 1733.
The portico was added in 1840. The
house contains a valuable library, a col-
lection of gems, and many pictures. At
the back of it is a large garden.

We can now either walk along Pic-
cadilly (see chapter 24.), or within the
rails through the park. At the corner of
Stratton-street is the house of Baroness
Burdett Cotrtts, whence Sir Francis Bur-
dett was taken to the Tower, in 1810.
No. 82 (Bath House) is the residence of
Lord Ashburton, and contains a valuable
collection of Dutch and Flemish pictures.
In No. 89, lived Madame d' Arblay ; in
No. 94 (now Naval and Military Club),
Lord Palmerston ; in No. 96, Sir Walter
Scott, when in town, with his friend, Mr.
Charles Diimergue. In No. 104, died Sir
William Hamilton, the collector of the
Hamiltonian gems, and the husband of
Nelson's Lady Hamilton. No. 105 (Hert-
ford House) was known formerly as
Pulteney Hotel. The Emperor Alexander
of Russia, lived in it during his visit to
London in 1814; and here Prince Leopold
was introduced to the Princess Charlotte.
In No. 1 06 (Coventry House, now St.
James's Club) died, 1809, the sixth Earl
of Coventry, who had married the eldest
of the beautiful Miss Gunnings'. No.
116, formerly the residence of Mrs. Hope,
is occupied now by the Junior Athenaeum
Club. In Gloucester House, corner of
Park-lane, E., were placed the Elgin
marbles, on their first arrival in England.
It is occupied now by the Duke of
Cambridge. A few houses furthur Nos.
138 and 139, lived the Duke of Queens-
berry, a notorious voluptuary and racing
man. Lord Byron spent the few days of
109

his London married life in the western
half of this house (No. 139). Lord Chan-
cellor Eldon died, 1838, in the corner
house of Hamilton Place. The last house
in Piccadilly is Apsley House, the town
residence of the great Duke of Wellington,
until his death in 1852. The shell of the
house is of brick, and was built, 1784, by
Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, Lord High
Chancellor ; the existing stone facing was
added in 1828, by Messrs. Wyatt. The
I celebrated Waterloo banquet used to be
| held in the drawing room facing Hyde-park.

Amongst the Art treasures in this mansion
I is a marble Statue of Napoleon (by Canova),

presented to the Duke by the allied sovereigns ;

a picture by Correggio (Christ on the Mount
I of Olives) captured in the carriage of Joseph

Bonaparte, and presented to the Duke by

Ferdinand VIII. of Spain.

We have now arrived at

HYDE PARK Corner, one of the chief
centres of traffic in London. On the left
a Triumphal Arch, designed by Decimus
Burton, with columns in imitation of those
of the Temple of Jupiter Stator. It was
intended for a quadriga, but now bears
an equestrian stature of the Duke of,
Wellington (by M. C. Wyatt). In front j
St. George's Hospital, on the right the
triple Archway leading into Hyde Park,
designed by Decimus Burton, with bas-
reliefs from the Elgin marbles.

Igg^ A visit to the northern portion's of
Hyde Park, including the Marble Arch, had
better be made in connection with the route
described in chapter 26.

HYDE PARK (390 acres), with the adjoin-
ing Kensington Gardens (210 acres), one
Park, the largest in London, separated
only by a dry ditch. Hyde Park was a
portion of the manor of Hyde, the pro-
perty of the monastery of St. Peter's, at
Westminster, until Henry VIII. obtained
possession of it, in 1536, and converted
it into a deer garden. In the time of
Charles I. a "Ring" was made in the
Park, to serve as a fashionable drive.
Cromwell mustered his " Ironsides," and
the Londoners threw up entrenchments
to defend the town against the Royal
troops. For its present beauty the Park
is indebted to William III., and to Queen

I 10

23.-THE WEST-END PABKS.

Caroline, the consort of George II., who
converted a string of ponds into a fine
sheet of water, known as the Serpentine.

A large portion of the Park consists of
open grass land. Kensington Gardens
are densely wooded. The flower beds are
to be found principally along its eastern

Rotten-row and the Ladies' Mile ; the
flower-gardens already referred to, and
particularly the sub-tropical gardens, be-
tween Albert-gate and Hyde-park Corner.
The statue of Achilles, an imitation of
an antique statue on Monte Cavallo, cast
from captured guns, and dedicated by

Quarter Mile

and southern margins, and in the " Long
Flower Walk " of Kensington Gardens.
The " Ring," a fine carriage road, skirts
the whole of the northern and eastern
boundaries of the Park and passes along
the Serpentine, where it is known as the
'Ladies' Mile.

Rotten Row (supposed to be a corrup-
tion of route du roi or King's-road)
extends from the gate at Hyde Park
Corner to Kensington, and no stranger
should omit visiting it between 5 and 7
during the season, when it is thronged
with equestrians. In Hyde Park there
are two powder magazines, and in Ken-
sington Gardens a Royal Palace.

Kensington Palace, an old brick building,
was purchased by William III. from the Earl
of Nottingham, and subsequently enlarged.
William III. and Queen Mary, Queen Anne
and her husband, died in the Palace, Queen
Victoria was born in it, in 1819, and held here
her first Council in 1837. At present it is
inhabited by the Prince Teck and the Marquis
of Lome.

Amongst the chief attractions of the
Park are the Serpentine, with an Italian
Garden (statue of Dr. Jenner, by W. C.
Marshall) at its upper, and a water-fall
and Fknver _" Dell " at its lower end ;
I ii

the Ladies of England to the Duke of
Wellington, near Hyde-park Corner, and
the

Albert L* tutorial , one of the most
gorgeous monuments erected in this or
any other country. It was designed by
Sir G. C. Scott, and consists of a Gothic
canopy, rising to a height of 175 feet,
beneath which is placed a sitting statue
of Prince Albert in gilt bronze (by the
late John Foley). The canopy rests upon
tour clustered pillars of Mull granite, and
is richly ornamented with mosaics by
Salviati, Clayton and Bell. The four
colossal marble groups at the foot of the
steps represent the four quarters of the
globe, with reference to the International
Exhibition of 1851, which originated with
the Prince (Europe by MacDowell, Asia
by Foley, Africa by Theed, and America
by John Bell). On the four projecting
corners of the base are placed allegorical
groups of Agriculture (by Calder Mar-
shall), Manufactures (by Weeks), Com-
merce (by.Thornycroft), and Engineering
(by Lawlor.) The base itself is ornamented
with 200 life-size portraits, in high relief,
of celebrated men of all countries and
ages, not very appropriately selected (by
J. P. Philip Jand H. Armstead). The
112

24.-ST. JAMES'S.

minor sculptures refer to the Arts and
Sciences cultivated by the Prince, and to
the Institutions founded by him.

The monument cost ^140,000, of which
/68,ooo was raised by voluntary subscrip-

tions, ^50,000 granted by Parliament, and
^22,000 paid by the Queen.

jjgjT Albert Hall, opposite this monument,
will be described in Chapter 41.

24.-ST. JAMES'S.

1^ Geological Museum, daily, Friday excepted.

We start as usual from the Nelson Col-
umn, Trafalgar-square. Cockspur-street,
with an equestrian statue of George III.
{by M. C. Wyatt), takes us from here to
the corner of Pall-mall and Haymarket,
\vhere stands a building surrounded by
Arcades, formerly Her Majesty's Theatre.
The first theatre on this site was built
in 1705, by J. Vanbrugh. It was burnt
down in 1789, but was immediately re-
built by Novosielsky, and subsequently
improved by Nash and Repton. In 1867
the interior of the building was gutted by
fire, but, though rebuilt, it has never again
been used as an opera-house, although
its acoustic properties left nothing to be
desired. Up to 1848 it was the only
Italian opera-house in London.

The HAYMARKET has enjoyed for many
years the unenviable notoriety of being
the nightly meeting-place of loose char-
acters. In the time of Charles II., there
existed gaming houses near its upper end,
and even now it abounds in cafe's, not
generally resorted to by the most select
company. Going up the street we pass
the portico of the Haymarket Theatre,
built by Nash, on the site of an older
house, and opened in 1821.

At the corner of Ponton-street we turn
to the right, (in a garret in it Addison
wrote his " Campaign ") and reach

LEICESTER-SQUARE recently converted
into a fine garden at the expense of Baron
Albert Grant.

Leicester-square was built in 1670-90, and a
few houses of that time still remain. It is the
centre of a district much resorted to by
foreigners. Sir Joshua Reynolds inhabited a
house on the West-side, (blue tablet) ; the
Alkambra, a theatre in the Moorish style, occu-
pies the site of John Hunter's house ; and

Hogarth lived in a house to the south of it, the
second from the corner. Sir Isaac Newton's
house, in the court opening into the square from
the south, is now used as a poor-school, and
can be distinguished- by a red lamp. Ben Jon-
son was born in Hartshorn-lane, near the
square. Busts of these four worthies have now
been placed in the square, the centre of which
is occupied by a statue of Shakespeare, imitated
from that of Scheemakers in Westminster
Abbey.

We now proceed through Coventry-
street to Piccadilly Circus, where Regent-
street intersects Piccadilly. Immediately
before reaching the Circus we pass, on
the left, the Criterion Restaurant, a luxu-
riously fitted up establishment (American
Bar), standing upon a subterranean
theatre.

PICCADILLY is said to be called after a
sort of stiff shirt collar, called Pickadille,
much worn in the beginning of the I7th
century. In its eastern part it consists
mainly of shops, in its western (described
in chapter 23), of fashionable dwelling-
houses. The first building to attract our
attention is the back of the Geological
Museum on the left. Nearly opposite to
it is one of the entrances to St. James's
Hall (Christy Minstrels). A little further,
on the opposite side, stands St. James's
Church, a plain edifice, by Wren, much
praised for its acoustic qualities. A nar-
row passage, on the left of the church,
takes us to Jermyn-street, and to the

GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM. This institution
was founded in 1837, on the representation
of Sir Henry de la Beche ; it is entrusted
with the Geological survey of the United
Kingdom, and in connection with it exist
a school of Mines, a metallurgical labora-
tory, and a Mining Record Office. The
present building was opened in 1851
(architect, James Pennethorne). The Pic.
114

24. ST. JAMES'S.

cadilly front is of Anston (Yorkshire)
dolomite or magnesian limestone ; that
in Jermyn-street of the same material and
Suffolk bricks. The steps leading into
the building are of red Peterhead granite,
those inside the building of Portland
stone. The spacious Entrance Hall con-
tains specimens of building materials
found in the British Islands, and some of
these have been employed in its decora-
tions. The entrance is lined with alabaster,
from Derbyshire ; the pilasters are of
Scotch granite, with serpentine and
various kinds of limestone. The tesse-
lated pavement has been manufactured
by Messrs. Minton, from Cornish china
clay, and is surrounded by encaustic tiles.
The entrances to the lecture theatre and
library- open from the vestibule. A hand-
some staircase, lined with specimens of
British industrial art, leads to the prin-
cipal floor, which is 95 feet long, 55 feet
wide, and 43 feet high, with two light
galleries running round it. In it are
placed a collection of pottery and china,
glass and keramic manufactures, enamels,
geological models, c. On the galleries
will be found a most complete collection
of British fossils and rocks, and in a
room adjoining, models of machinery,
mining tools, &c.

We return to Piccadilly. Almost oppo-
site to the church is the Albany, a quiet
court - yard, surrounded by superior
bachelors' houses, and immediately be-
yond it we reach

BURLINGTON HOUSE, the head-quarters
of some of the leading scientific societies,
and of the Royal Academy of Arts. Old
Burlington House had been built about
1665, by Webb, a pupil of Inigo Jones,
and was subsequently much modified by
its possessor, Lord Burlington (born, 1695,
died, 1753), who likewise built the fine
colonnade, which separates it scourt-yard
from Piccadilly. In 1854, the house and
its garden were purchased by Government ;
the colonnade has been removed, and
imposing buildings have risen in its stead.
The front, towards Piccadilly, is by-
Charles Barry and Banks. A high gate-
way conducts into a quadrangle. In
front of us rises the building of the Royal
Academy, an enlargement of old Burling-

ton House, by S. Smirke. The wing on the
right is occupied by the Royal Society,
that on the left by the Society of Anti-
quaries, and the Astronomical Society, and
other portions of the vast building by the
Linnean, the Geological, and Chemical
Societies.

The Royal Society was incorporated by-
Charles II. in 1662, and originated in 1645 i R
the so-called "Invisible College," a small
body of men of learning who used to meet
weekly in Gresham College, in the City. It
can boast of the names of Newton, Wren,
Halley, Boyle, Herschel, Davy, and Watt, as
having been amongst its members. In 1667
the Society already numbered 200 members,
each of whom was expected to pay a shilling
a week, though several amongst them, inclu-
ding Isaac Newton, were not able to keep up
this modest contribution. The Society now
numbers 800 Fellows. The annual admissions
are limited to fifteen ; the entrance fee is ^ 10,
the annual subscription 4. The Society
possesses a library of 50,000 volumes, a col-
lection of valuable portraits of old Fellows,
and many curiosities, including a telescope and
a sun-dial made by Newton, the manuscript of
| Newton's " Principia," a "Charter book,"
containing the signatures of all Fellows, and
many others.

The Royal Academy of Arts was
founded in 1768. Its first President was Sit
Joshua Reynolds. It consists of 42 R.A.'s,
(Royal Academicians), wkh whom rests
the government of the Institution, 6
Honorary Foreign Academicians (all
Frenchmen) and 26 Associates. The
Academy holds an Exhibition of modern
works of Art from May to August, and
generally also an Exhibition of the works
of ancient masters during the winter. It
also supports an Art School. Its income
amounts to ,6,000 a year. The Exhibi-
tion galleries are on the first floor of the
building. On the second floor are three
rooms with the Diploma Pictures of the
Academicians, which they are required to
present on admission, the statues and
casts bequeathed by Gibson, and several
other Art treasures of high value (Car-
toons by Leonardo da Vinci, a fresco by
Paul Veronese, a bas-rclicf by Michael
Angelo, c.) * M

Visitors are admitted to the Exhibitions on
payment of is., but the Art collections be-

24.-ST. JAMES'S.

longing to the Academy are jealously guarded
from the gaze of the public. Application for
admission should be made to the keeper,
F. R. Pickersgill, Esq.

We now return to Piccadilly (opposite
the Egyptian Hall) and, walking through
Burlington Arcade, a covered walk with
fine shops, we reach the back of Burlington
House, and with it the

LONDON UNIVERSITY, established in
1837 by Government, for the conduct of
Examinations, with a view to the con-
ferring of degrees upon the students of
University College, King's College, and
other similar institutions in all parts of
the country managed independently of it.
There are no less than 56 Examiners,
who are paid ^30 to ,200 each annually.
The degrees conferred by them are held
in high estimation. The Registrar enjoys
a salary of ^1,000. The graduates elect
one member to Parliament.

The present building was completed in
1870 (architect, Pennethorne). It is in
the Italian Renaissance style, and its ex-
terior is decorated with statues of great
men.

On the portico, sitting statues of Harvey,
Milton and Bentham (by John Durham). On
the top of the building : Galileo, La Place and
Goethe (by E. W. Wyon) ; Aristotle, Galenus
and Cicero (by ]". S. Westmacott) ; Justinian,
Archimedes and Plato (by I. W. Wooding-
ton) ; and David Hume, John Hunter and Sir
Humphrey Davy (by M. Noble.) la the
niches of the eastern wing : Cuvier, Liebnitz
and Linnaeus (by P. Mac Dowell), on the
western wing, Locke, Bacon and Adam Smith
(by W. Theed).

In Savile-row, close by (No. 7) died Richard
Brinsley Sheridan.

We now turn back and reach OLD
BOND STREET, with numerous fashionable
shops, and, turning to the left, return to
Piccadilly.

In 41, Old Bond-street died Sterne.

In Albemarle-street, No. 21 is the BriiisJi
Institution, founded in 1806, where public
lectures on scientific subjects are delivered by
the most eminent men of the day. The Insti-
tution possesses a valuable library, and the
names of Humphrey Davy, Faraday, and
Tyndale are associated with its laboratory.
The front of the building is an imitation of
the Custom-house at Rome (by Vulliamy).

117 '

On the way to it we pass the business premises
of Mr. Murray, the eminent publisher (No.
50), where Byron and Sir Walter Scott met
the only time in their life.

It iif

1. Her Majesty's. 2. Haymarket Theatre. 3.
Alhambra. 4. Criterion. 5. Geological Museum.
6. St. James's Hall. 7. St. James's Church. 8.
Egyptian Hall. 9. White's Club. 10. Boodle's
Club. 11. Brooke's Club. 12. Conservative Club.
13. East India United Service. 14. "War Office. 15.
Army and Navy. 16. Junior Carl ton Club. 17.
Carl ton Club. IS. Reform Club. 19. Travellers'
Club. 20. Athenocum Club. 21. United Service
Club.

St. James's Street cannot rival Pall
Mall in the splendour of its clubs, but
nevertheless contains a goodly number of
them. The house at the corner, on the
right, used to be occupied by Crockford's
Club, a notorious gaming place ; it was
subsequently converted into the Wel-
lington Dining Rooms, and is now the
Devonshire Club (a new Reform Club).
Opposite to it (No. 37) is White's Club,
established in 1736, and limited to strict
Tories. In 1814, its members distin-
guished themselves by offering a banquet
to the allied sovereigns, then in London,,
which cost ,9,849. On the other side of
the street, No. 57, is the New University
Club, a tasteful Gothic building. Lower
down, on the left, No. 28, is Boodle's Club
(Gibbon was one of its members), and
nearly opposite to it, at the corner of
Park-place, is Brooke's Club, founded
in 1767 by the Whigs, and originally
118

24.-ST. JAMES'S.

a gaming house. The present building
(Henry Holland, architect) was built at
the expense of Brooks, a retired wine
merchant and money lender, who had
"farmed" the club, and opened it in 1778.
No. 64, on the right, is the Cocoa-tree
Club, and a little beyond, on the left, is
King-street.

In King-street are St. James's Theatre, (with
a small portico) and Willis's Rooms, (Robert
Mylne, architect, 1795). These Rooms were
formerly the property of Almack, whose
fashionable and exclusive balls were discon-
tinued in 1863, on account of persons of low
degree having managed to invade these sacred
precincts. The rooms are still used for balls
and public dinners, and in one of them
may be seen several valuable pictures by Sir
Joshua Reynolds and others, (shown on pay-
ment of a gratuity). In a lodging house at the
further end of the street (No. 3), lived the
Emperor Napoleon III., during his exile in
London. In Bury-street, which enters from
the north, lived Tom Moore, in 1806, (No. 27),
and Dan O'Connel, in 1829 (No. 29). We
return to St. James's -street.

Almost opposite to King -street is
Arthur's Club, originally a chocolate
house, its present mansion was erected in
1 820 (Thomas Hopper, architect). A little
lower down the street we reach the
Conservative Club, founded in 1840 as a
club of ease to the Carlton, and occupying
a noble building, erected 1843-45 (G.
Bassevi and Sidney Smith, architects).
At the side of it the Thatched House Club
(formerly a tavern), built on the site of
the house in which Gibbon, the great
historian died in 1794. Opposite in No. 8,
Byron lodged in 1811. We see now in
front of us a fine street-lamp, and beyond
it the ancient gateway of

ST. JAMES'S PALACE.

Admission to Courts free, to Palace and
chapel only by permission of Lord Chamber-
lain, (see p. 26). Band daily, 10.45 a - m -
Sundays included.

St. James's Palace is the oldest Royal
Palace in London, and occupies the site
of an hospital for lepers, which existed
until 1532, when it was acquired by Henry !
VIII., who converted it into a Royal
Palace, which was subsequently enlarged
by Charles I., and has been the usual
residence of the sovereigns from 1697

119

(when Whitehall was burnt) to the
accession of Queen Victoria. The east
wing of the Palace was destroyed by fire,
in 1809, and has since been rebuilt. The
Palace is now used only for Court cere-
monies, such as "drawing-rooms" and
"levdes," at which ladies or gentlemen
are presented to Royalty.

The Gateway at the bottom of St.
James's-street, is almost the only remnant
of Henry VIII.'s palace, and leads into
the " Colour Court," ; but it is generally
closed to the public, who enter by a gate-
way further towards the west (right), which
takes us into the Ambassador*? Court.
Here, in the brick-house on the right.
lodged Marshal Blucher, in 1814. The
Colour Court is thus called because the
colours of the regiment on duty is placed
with in it. In it is the entrance to the Chape i
Royal, with a highly decorated ceiling.
said to be designed by Hans Holbein.
The entrance to the state apartments is
in the outer or Marlborough-court. They
overlook St. James's Park. A grand
staircase leads to a guard-chamber,
adorned with military arms. The first
room is called the Tapestry-room ; it is
hung with that material, and has an
ancient fire-place retaining the initials of
Henry VIII. and Ann Boleyn. The Ball-
room and Drawing-room contain a few
portraits. In the Throne-room is placed
the Royal chair of state ; the Council-
chamber, behind it, as well as the Entree
gallery, contain some valuable paintings.
The German Chapel Royal adjoins Marl-
borough-court on the east. It was built
by Charles II. for his catholic Queen
Catherine of Braganza, but converted into
a Lutheran chapel on the accession of the
House of Hanover.

Stafford House (see page 28). adjoins St.
James's Palace on the west.

We now return to St. James's-street,
and, turning to the right, enter

Pall Mall, one of the finest streets in
London, celebrated for its palatial club-
houses. It is so called from a game intro-
duced into England, in the reign of
Charles I., and which was formerly
played here. The street was first lighted
with gas in 1807.

On the right, a gate, guarded by a

120

24.-ST. JAMES'S.

sentinel, leads to Marlborough House, the
residence of the Prince of Wales. It was
built 1709-10, by Wren, for the great
Duke of Marlborough, who died in it. In
1817, it was purchased by the Crown, and
granted as a residence to Prince Leopold,
subsequently King of the Belgians. Next
to it are the Junior Naval and Military Club
(No. 68), the Guards' Club (No. 70), and the
Oxford and Cambridge University Club
(No. 71-76), erected 1838, by Sidney
Smirke. Opposite is the Marlborough
Club, the most exclusive Club in London.
On the same side of the street is the old
building of the British Institution,
established 1805, for the purpose of
encouraging art, by holding exhibitions
of modern and ancient pictures. It is
occupied now by the Institute of Painters
in Water Colours.

No. 79, on the right side, now an In-
surance Office, occupies the site of Nell
G Wynne's house. In Schomburg House,
next to it, lived Gainsborough, the painter.
We have now reached the War Office, a
plain brick-building, erected in 1767, for
the Duke of Cumberland.

In the Quadrangle towards the street a fine
statue of Lord Herbert, Secretary of State
during the Crimean Warj by Foley. The -bas-
reliefs illustrate the principal events which took
place during Lord Herbert's tenure of office,
viz., the creation of the Volunteer Corps, the
introduction of Armstrong guns, and the
nursing of the wounded soldiers by Miss
Nightingale and her noble band of ladies.

A short street opposite, leads into St.
James's Square. (We continue however,
along Pall Mall). At the corner, the
Army and Navy Chid, a most ornate
building, partly based upon a design of
Sansovino's (architects, Messrs. Parnell
and Smith, 1848-50). The ground cost
/52,5oo; the building, ,35,000.

On the same side of the street, the
Junior Carlton Club (D. Brandon, archi-
tect), a club of ease to the Carlton Club,
which is on the opposite (right) side of
Pall Mall, and was establised in the in-
terest of the Conservatives, in 1831. The
Carlton is a noble building having a
front 130 feet in length, and designed in
imitation of the east front of the library
*>f St. Mark at Venice, the architects of
121

which were Sansovino and Scamozzi.
The exterior is of Caen stone, with Doric
and Ionic columns and pilasters of
polished Peterhead granite (architect,
Sidney Smirke, 1850-56). Next to it is
the Reform Club, established in 1830 by
Liberal Members of Parliament. The
building is by Sir Charles Barry, and is
much admired. In some of its features
it resembles the Palazzo Farnese, though
by no means a slavish copy of it.

A short street opposite leads into St. James's
square, built 1674-90, and ornamented with an
equestrian statue of William III. by Bacon,
jun. The first three houses on the right belong
to the Duke of Norfolk, the Bishop of London,
and Earl Derby. On the opposite side of the
square, at the north corner of King-street, lived
Lord Castlereagh. Now back to Pall Mall.
On the opposite side of it, next to the Reform
Club, stands the

Travellers' Club, a chaste building in
the Italian palazzo style of architecture,
by Sir Charles Barry (1831). We now
enter

WATERLOO PLACE, which occupies the
site of Carlton House, the residence of
the Prince Regent (George IV.) At the
head of the stairs leading into St. James's
Park, stands the Duke of York's column,
124 feet in height, surmounted by a bronze
statue of the Duke (son of George III.)
by B. Westmaeott. The column is of
Scotch granite, and was designed by B.
Wyatt ; 168 steps lead to a cage or gallery,
from which there is a fine prospect. The
centre of the " Place " is occupied by a
monument erected in honour of the three
regiments of Guards who fought in the
Crimea (by J. Bell). On either side an in-
different statue of Colin Campbell (Lord
Clyde) by Baron Marochetti, and a fine
statue of Sir John Franklin, the Arctic
navigator, by Noble.

Amongst the buildings surrounding this
square that of- the AtJienceum Club is the
most prominent. It was erected in
1829-30 (Decimus Burton, architect).

The Club was instituted in 1823, for the
association of individuals known for their liter-
ary and scientific attainments, artists of emi-
nence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble-
men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal
patrons of Science, Literature, and the Arts.

122

25. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL,

GARDENS.

There are 1200 ordinary members, and the
number of candidates is exceedingly large.

The United Service Club, opposite to
the former was built, 1826 (John Nash,

architect), and contrasts with it by its com-
parative simplicity. The members are
recruited from the Army and Navy.

25. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL

GARDENS.

tgil" Zoological Garden* open on all week,
days, from 9 to sunset (see below). Polytechnic
Institution^ daily 12 and 7. Botanical Gardens,
by introduction of a member.

This route is a continuation of the preceding
one. The distance to be performed is consider-
able, for including a vralk through Regent's
Park and up to Primrose Hill, it amounts to no
' less than five mHes, and as a visit to the Zoo-
logical Gardens is likewise fatiguing, it may be
advisable to take a cab to the Portland-road
entrance to the Park ; then to walk through
the Avenue Gardens and Broad Walk to Prim-
rose Hill, then to visit the Zoological Gardens,
and finally return through the western portion
of the Park to the New-road. The visitor will
then find himself in the vicinity of Madame
Tussaud's exhibition, which is open until 10 p.m
A stroll through that portion of Regent-street
occupied by the leading shops may be taken on
some other occasion.

Regent-street is certainly one of the
finest streets of London. It has been
built since 1813, in accordance with a plan
designed by John Nash, and was intended
to connect Carlton House with Regent's
Park. The houses are of a design more
or less uniform ; the bricks are hidden by
plaster, and the latter is painted atfrequent
intervals. The houses have thus an
appearance of gaiety, which contrasts
favourably with most others, even in some
of our finest streets.

Starting from Waterloo Place, we ob-
serve, on the right, the fine house of the
Junior United Service Club (Nelson and
Innes, architects, 1857). On the other
side of the street is Regent-street Chapel
(Repton, architect), and nearly opposite
to it, the house which Nash built for his
own residence, now in the occupation of
the * Pall Mall Restaurant and the
Raleigh Club.

~ ' We reach Piccadilly Circus. Close to
123

it, on the right the " Criterion," a restau-
rant and theatre. We cross the Circus
and enter the " Quadrant." Originally,,
the whole of it was lined with Arcades r
which served as covered walks but were-
removed on account of their obstructing
the light and attracting women of bad
character. On the left is the entrance
to St. James's Hall. The numerous shops
now attract our attention. Before reach-
ing Hanover Church, with its portico and:
curious tower (C. R. Cockerell, architect),,
we turn to the left, and, walking through
Hanover-street, we reach

Hanover Square, built 1720-30. A sta-tue
of William occupies its centre (by Chanter?).
The corner house of Hanover-street was famous
formerly as the Queen's Concert Rooms, cr
Hanover-square Rooms. It is occupied no\v
by a Club called the International.

Oxford-street is crossed at the Oxford
Circus. We continue in the direction of
All Souls Church, with a circular portico
and steeple, which terminates the view of
Regent-street. (Nash, architect).

All Saints Church, Margaret-street, is cfosc
to Regent-street and will repay a visit. It
foundations were laid in 1850 by Dr. Pusey.
and it was completed in 1859 at an expense of
^60,000, one half of which was contribute. I
by Mr. Tritton, a banker, and Mr. Beresfor I
Hope, M.P. The exterior is of variegated brick
and hardly gives promise of the sumptuous
splendour which reigns within. The roof
rises 75 feet. Marble and alabaster abound, the
windows are painted by Gerente, and the wall
above the Altar is covered with frescoes by
Dyce representing the Nativity, the Cruci-
fixion, the Saviour, the Virgin, and the twelve
Apostles.

Before continuing our walk along Regent-
street we may pay a visit to Cavendish-tquare,
which is close by. It was built 1750-60. In

:25. REGENT'S STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL

GARDENS.

its centre an equestrian statue of the Duke of
Cumberland, victor of Culloden, 1746, and to
the south of it a statue of Lord G. Bentinck,
the leader of the protectionists. Opposite to
the latter is Holies-street (Lord Byron born in
No. 16). On the west side of the square
Harcourt House, the residence of the Duke of
Portland.

In George-street, which enters the square
from the south, St. George's Church, Hanover-
square (James, architect, 1724), famous on
account of its fashionable weddings. We
return to Resrent-street.

Continuing our walk along Regent-
street, we pass (on left), the Polytechnic
Institution, a. place of entertainment, (see
p. 35). Opposite to it is the old Portland
Bazaar. We pass All Souls, mentioned
above, and find ourselves in front of the
Langham Hotel, built, 1863-65, for a
Limited Liability Company. Portland
Place, a wide street, stands in front of us,
and terminates in a square, where is a
statue of the Duke of Kent (by Gahagan).
We are now close to Regent's Park.

arks

YSTH rr-e FSS^rr^rvj r

r^ir^t^JblqiV L (j,

Regent's Park occupies an area of 470
ncres, and is one of the most picturesque
parks in London. It was laid out, in
I&I2, by Mr. James Morgan, from the
designs of Nash, who also built the ter-
races of fine houses which surround it,
and has recently been much improved.
Amongst its finest portions are the Avenue
125

"**3foj^ieboC/r V \Creicent/
X^ljil^y

Gardens and the Broad Walk, which
cross its centre, and the Lake, in its
western portion. In the former will be
observed two fountains, one by Westma-
cott, another, erected at the expense of
an Indian nobleman. The centre of the
park is occupied by the Botanical
Gardens.

126

25.-REGEITT STEEET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL

GARDENS.

The Botanical Gardens are the property of
the Botanical Society, and are not as a rule
open to the public. They were laid out in
1840, by R. Marnock, and are well deserving a
visit. Decimus Burton was the architect of
the Winter Gardens.

Amongst the buildings scattered
through the Park" may be mentioned the
Baptist College, St. Dunstari's Lodge
(built by D. Burton for the late Duke of
Hertford) ; St. John's Lodge, the "Holme"
(by W. Burton), and South Villa with Mr.
Bishop's observatory, where Mr. Hind
discovered several asteroids and comets.
St. KatherinJs Hospital is on the east
side of the Park.

This Hospital was founded in 114$, and its
present buildings erected in 1827 (Poynter,
architect), the old building having been pulled
down to make room for the St. Katherine
Docks. Its chapel is an imitation of that of
King's College, Cambridge. It maintains a
master (who receives ^2,000 a year, in addition
to a residence), 3 brothers ^300 each), 3 sisters
(,200 each), 40 bedesmen and bedeswomen
(;io each), and a school for 50 children.

Passing over the bridge at the northern
termination of the Broad Walk we reach
PRIMROSE HILL, where one of the finest
views over London and its environs may
be enjoyed, particularly in the early
morning. St. Paul's Cathedral and the
Crystal Palace rise then above the vapours
hanging over London. Closer by are St.
John's Wood, a suburb towards the west,
and Camden Town, towards the east.
The bridge over the canal, towards the
south-west, was destroyed by the explosion
of a barge laden with gunpowder, in 1874.

ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent's-park.

Open on week-days from 9 to sunset. Ad-
mission is., on Mondays 6d. Feeding Times
of the animals :^ Pelicnns 2.30, Otters 3,
Eagles 3.30, Lions and Tigers 4 p.m.

A Band every Saturday, during the season,
from 4 to 6 p.m.

Popular Lectures on Thursdays at 5 p.m.

Restaurant, (expensive. )

The gardens are the property of the
Zoological Society, which was established
in 1826, has a muster roll of over 3,000
members, and an annual income of close
upon ^30,000. The gardens were visited
in 1874, by 706,900 persons. Fellows of
127

the Society pay an entrance fee of ^5
and an annual contribution of ^3, which
entitles them to admission to the gardens,
with two companions daily, including-
Sundays. Further privileges are granted
on additional payments being made.
Gentlemen desirous of joining should
apply to Dr. Ph. L. Sclater, the secretary,
10, Hanover-square.

Igg" We suppose the visitor to enter from
j Primrose-hill, by the North Lodge, and to
I follow the consecutive figures on our plan.

An Illustrated Guide to the Gardens is sold
j at the entrance, price 6d.

On turning to the left we pass No. i r
j the NortJi Aviary, recently erected for
! rapacious birds, including Eagles, Hawks,
| and Falcons.

We cross the canal bridge and again
turn to the left.

The Reptile-house (No. 2), was erected
in 1849, and contains serpents in glass
cases, admitting of close examination.
Amongst them are Pythons, Boa-con-
strictors, Rattlesnakes and others.

The Picture Gallery (No. 3) contains
a collection of water colour drawings
by Wolf.

The Marsupials' house (No. 4) contains
the more delicate members of the family
of Marsupials, all of them natives of
Australia and America. In one of the
cages is an Ant-eater, a curious animal.
Passing through we enter the

Sloths' house (No. 5). On leaving this
we turn to the right and pass the tw r o

Kangaroo-sheds (Nos. 6 and 7). The
Kangaroos are essentially an Australian
family. Ascending the narrow path we
pass the Wombats' house (No. 8), which
contains two species of that genus of
Marsupials. Descending on the other side
we observe the inclosure occupied by the
Brush Turkey, a Talegalla, a remarkable
bird, which conceals its eggs by burying
them in a heap of earth, leaves, grass,
c., capable of generating and retaining
heat, instead of hatching them (No. 9).

On reaching the open space we turn to

the right to the MarkJiore's house (No. 10),.

occupied by a pair of Wild Goats from

j Afghanistan, presented to the society in

I 1866.

128

25 REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL

GARDENS.

The Crows' cages (No. u), now face
us, and behind them is the Parrots' -house
(Xo. 12,) containing one of the richest
collections of these birds to be found in
Europe. The adjoining

Elephant-house (No. 13), has been
constructed only recently, and is inhabited
by 3 Elephants, 4 Rhinoceroses, and a
Tapir. The African Black Rhinoceros
was captured near Kasala, in Nubia, in
1868, and is the first specimen of this
animal brought to Europe since the days

gardens and reach the Deer-sheds (No.
14), which contains several deers from
various parts of the world. Observe the
spotted Forrnosan and Manchurian deer.
Close by is the Beaver-pond (No. 1 5), in
which will be seen two Canadian Beavers.
Passing at v the back of the premises
occupied by the superintendent of the
gardens (No. 16), we reach the

Hippopotamus-house (No. 17). The
oldest of the three hippopotamus was
captured on the upper White Nile in

of the Romans. The Javan Rhinoceros
is the only individual of this species in
Europe. The Hairy-haired Rhinoceros
was captured in British Burmah, and
brought to England in 1872. She was
purchased for ,1,250. There is also an
Indian Rhinoceros. One of the elephants
is Indian, the two others are African.
We go past one of the entrances to the
129

1849, when a calf, only three days old.
The scar from a wound made by a gaff-
hook on that occasion, still remains. A
second hippopotamus, a female, was pro-
cured in 1853. In the spring of 1872, the
female produced her first calf, but it died,
and only the third calf, born Nov. 5th,
1872, has survived, and is still with its
parents.

130

2.5. REGENT STREET, REGENT'S PARK, AND ZOOLOGICAL

GARDENS.

The Giraffe-bouse (No. 18) adjoins.
The first giraffe was brought to England
in 1827, but did not survive long. The
Society obtained its first four giraffes in
1836, from M. Thibaut, who had caught
them in Kordofan. The female gave
birth to no less than seven fawns before
her death in October, 1852. In the
autumn of 1866 a fire occurred in this
house, resulting in the death of two ani-
mals, and the old male died soon after-
wards about 20 years old. There are now
two males and three females, the oldest of
them born in 1853. The adjoining Eland-
Jumse {No. 19) contains several splendid
antelopes, including the eland first im-
ported into England by the late Earl of
Derby in 1840. On leaving this house we
pass along the Ostrich-house (No. 20),
which contains ostriches from Africa,
rheas or American ostriches, emeus and
cassowaries from Australia, and the Kiwi
or apterix from New Zealand, a wingless
bird.

We now return along the front of the
various buildings already inspected, pas-
sing on the road the Gazelles' -sheds (No.
21), and traversing a tunnel, we enter the
main portion of the gardens. We turn to
the right. The Llamas' -house (No. 22)
is inhabited by three species of Llamas.
At the back of it there are several native
and foreign owls, and opposite is the
Dove-cot (No. 23), a cage now occupied
by short-winged rails from the Pacific
Islands. The Wolves' den (No. 24) is
tenanted by an American, Arctic, and a
common European wolf. The Northern-
pond (No. 25) with its enclosure, is one of
the principal breeding-places of the water-
fowL Opposite to it is the Water-fowls'
Lawn (No. 26), where the sacred Ibis of
the Egyptians and the Flamingos deserve
notice. The Eastern Aviary (No. 27)
faces this lawn. It contains hornbills,
curassows, and other tropical birds.
Higher up is the Pelican? Enclosure
' No. 28).

We now return part of the way, and
pass between the Eagle Owls' Aviary
(No. 29), and the Camel-house (No. 30)
to the dens below the Terrace, not all
tenanted. In the Camel House will be

found the common camel or dromedary,
and a two-humped camel, born in the
Engineers' Camp, on the heights of Se-
bastopol, in 1855.

The Bear-pond (No. 31) is devoted to
the polar or ice-bear. On the other side
of the Terrace is the Bear-pit {^Q. 32),
generally tenanted by a European brown
bear and an American black bear. We
next reach the Monkey -house (No. 33),
a light and sunny building completed in
1864. Amongst the numerous monkeys
whose gambols may be watched here from
a safe distance, are the chimpanzee, the
orang-outang, the ma got or Barbary ape
(the only monkey which still lives in
Europe, on the rock of Gibraltar). Le-
murs and bats are likewise lodged in this
building. The Western Aviary (No. 34
follows next. It was built in 1851, and
contains some of the most interesting
birds of the collection, principally natives
of Australia, the Indian Archipelago, and
America.

We now pass the enclosures devoted to
Storks (35 and 36), Cranes*(sj\ Pheasants
(39), and Turkeys (39). The collection of
storks is particularly rich, and contains
nearly all known species, amongst which
the Marabout, an African bird the neck
and head of which are naked is one of
the most interesting. We now find our-
selves in front of the SOUTHERN PONDS
No. 40), where those water-fowl are kept,
which are most adapted for being accli-
matized in this country. One of the ponds
is given up to gulls, the two others princi-
pally to ducks, who breed here in security,
being protected by a stout iron netting
against rats. Turning to the right, we
reach the Rodents' -house (No. 41), con-
taining some of the larger species of that
class of animals, including the crested
porcupine. Next to it is the Swine-
house (No. 42), where the Ethiopian
hog, and the peccary, the American repre-
sentative of that useful family, may be
seen. We now walk along the south-
western boundary of the gardens, having
the Southern Ponds on our right, and
soon reach the Goost-ponds (No. 43) and
the Seal-pond (No. 44). The latter is
tenanted by a common seal, a Patagonian

132

25. REG-ENT STREET, REG-ENT'S PARK", AND ZOOLOG-ICAL

GARDENS.

sea-lion (brought from the Falkland Is-
lands in 1867), and a smaller sea-lion from
the Cape (brought to England in 1871).
At first these animals were very fierce, but
captivity soon tamed them. The Phea-
sant J Aviaries (No. 45) contain many
specimens of these beautiful game birds,
brought from the Himalaya, and from
other prats of Asia. On the other side of
the path is the Pea-fowls' Aviary (No.
46). The common pea-fowl is a native of
India. We then pass along the NEW
DEER-HOUSE (No. 47), which contains the
larger species of deer, including the
Wapiti, the Barbary and Cashmeerian
deer, the Samburt deer, and several others
of great interest. On reaching the south
entrance of the gardens, we turn to the
left. Three Island-pond (No. 48) is a
favourite breeding-place of the pintail, the
shoveller, widgeon, duck, and other water-
fowl. The path on the left takes us past
a small enclosure (No. 49), at one time
tenanted by a gems-buck and Kashmir
goats, and past the Sheep-sheds (No. 50)^
tenanted only by wild sheep, all of whom i
have bred in the gardens, to the CATTLE- |
SHEDS (No. 51), occupied by several |
interesting specimens of the genus Bos,
including the gayal from Bengal, the
Indian zebu or sacred ox (presented by
the Queen in 1862), and the Cape buffalo.

Opposite is the LIONS' HOUSE, opened
November, 1875. ^ contains 6 lions, 8
tigers, 3 leopards, 3 pumas, and 2 jaguars,
whose transport from the old dens under-
neath the terrace, was attended with
considerable difficulties.

Having passed through this House we
find ourselves opposite to the entrance to
the new ANTELOPE AND ZEBRA HOUSES
(Nos. 53 and 54), which contain most of
the antelopes of the society, as well as a
complete series of the representatives of
the horse tribe, including the wild ass of
Tibet (the only example of this animal in
Europe), the onager, the zebra and the
quagga.

On leaving this building we turn to the
right, pass the Waders' Enclosure (No.
55), turn to the left, keeping the Three

Island Pond (No. 48) on our right, and
enter the FISH HOUSE (No. 56), a build-
ing erected in 1852, the first public
aquarium on a large scale. The tanks
contain a good collection of salt-water
fishes and other marine animals, as well
as ^ specimens of many of the common
fresh-water fishes of the British islands.
A series of tanks is fitted up for fish-
hatching. An adjoining compartment
contains a darter, a remarkable Brazilian
bird, and there is also an aviary for
aquatic birds.

fgJT The Restaurant adjoins the Fish House.

We proceed next to No. 57, the
Vultures' Aviary, where imperial eagles,
condors, and other birds may be seen.
Turning back in a northerly direction we
pass the Garganeys 1 Ponds (No. 58).
Opposite to it are the Racoons' Cages
(No. 59), inhabited by racoons and other
hairdymammals of temperate and northern
regions. Close to it is one of the Small
Mammals' -Jwuses (No. 60), and a little
further on a larger one (No. 61), which
contains principally quadrupeds incapable
of sustaining the climate of England with-
out protection. Amongst these are the
ocelot, the serval, the ichneumon, the
grison, the marmot and many others.

The Winter Aviary (No. 62) has been
alienated from its original destination,
and now accommodates several carni-
verous animals, such as foxes, jackals, and
civets. Close to it is the Mandarin
Ducks' Pond (No. 63), the Kite? Aviary
(No. 64), and the Otters' Cage (No. 66)
The Eagles Aviaries (No. 66) contain
specimens of sea eagles, golden eagles
and others. The Pond (No. 67) close to
this aviary, used to be occupied by
sturgeons and by a salamander.

We now proceed to the Terrace, and
having ascended the steps, follow the
Terrace walk to the main entrance of the
Gardens, opposite to which is a fountain
presented by the Baroness Burdett-
Coutts.

l^On leaving the Cardans -turn to the left
and enter Regent's-park by the nearest gate.
The right-hand walk leads straight to the
suspension bridge over the lake.

'33

23.-BELaRAVIA, MAYFAIR, AND TYBURNIA.

Distance: 6 miles (from Charing-cross- back
to Piccadilly.)

lgg If it is proposed to visit the Grosvenor
and Hertford Galleries, tickets of admission
should be secured beforehand.

This walk takes us through some of the
finest quarters of London, such as but
few foreign cities can boast of, and
though few strangers may feel inclined to
walk the whole of the six miles, which it
includes, they should at least have a
peep at Belgrave-square, Grosvenor-
square and Westbourne-terrace in Pad-
dington, whenever chance brings them
near one of these places.

Igg An omnibus may be taken from Char-
ing Cross to Hyde-park Corner (Plan D 6).
Descend, and have a look at Belgrave-square,
which is close by. Then take the red omnibus
which starts from Victoria-station, and pro-
ceeds along Grosvenor-place, Park-lane, and
Edgware-road to the Paddington'-station (Plan
B 5). Descend, walk on foot to Westbourne-
grove, return through Junction-road, etc., to
Edgware-road, and then take an omnibus to
Charing-cross.

By following this plan the distance to be
walked is reduced to a trifle over a mile.

lgf" A yellow omnibus passing along Edg-
ware-road and at the Back of Paddington

HYDE P"

'35

Station, proceeds every 15 minutes to Kensal-
green Cemetery (about one mile beyond Plan
A 3), a visit to which may thus conveniently
be combined with this walk.

We start from Charing Cross, and,,
walking through the enclosure of St.
James's Park, proceed to the Victoria
Station, the fine hotel of which (Grosvenor
Hotel) was built from the designs of
J. T. Knowles.

Belgrai'ia, one of the most fashionable
quarters of London, now lies to the north.
of us. The greater portion of it was built
between 1826-52, on ground belonging to
the Duke of Westminster. Several of the
houses are quite modern, and they are
amongst the largest private residences
in London. We cross the two triangular
open spaces in front of us (Grosvenor
Gardens), and turning to the left, enter
EATON-SQUARE, one of the most exten-
tensive in London, but not othenvise re-
markable. We are now close to BELGRAVE-
SQUARE, the centre of Belgravia, built
1826-33 by Geo. Bassevi. Passing through
Wilton Crescent we reach Knightsbridge*
and turning to the right, HYDE PARK
CORNER, described on p. 100. The build-
ing at the corner is ST. GEORGE'S
HOSPITAL, founded in 1733 (the present
building by Wilkins, 1829). The cele-
brated Dr. Hunter was house-surgeon at.
this hospital.

It may perhaps be worth while, on reaching
Knightsbridge, to turn to the left, in order to
have a look at Taitersairs, the celebrated horse-
mart, established in 1795 by Richard Tatter-
sail, the jockey of the Duke of Kingston, and
subsequently proprietor of " Highflyer," a
celebrated race-horse, whose achievements
enriched its owner. There is stabling here .
for 400 .horses. Sales take place on Mondays,
and during the season, also on Thursdays.

MAYFAIR lies to the east of Hryde Park
Corner, and up to the close of the last
century it was the scene of many rough
festivities. It is now much affected by
fashionable doctors.

We turn up PARK LANE, which we
follow as far as Oxford-street. Holder-
nesse House (S. and B. Wyatt, architects),
town residence of Earl Vane, faces a
gorgeous monument, recently erected.
Stanhope-street, a little further on, leads
to Chesterfield House, erected by I. Ware
136

26. BELGRAVIA, MAYFAIR, AND TYBUBNIA.

for the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield
(died 1773), author of " Letters to his Son,"
&c., columns and grand stair-case formed
a part of the Cannons, a noted mansion

of the Duke of Chandos. Dorchester
House is close by. It is the property of
R. S. Holford, Esq., and was built by L.
Vulliamy. It contains a valuable collec-
tion of pictures. A short distance higher
up we perceive the back of GROSVENOR
HOUSE, the front of which faces Upper
Grosvenor-street. It is the town residence
of the Duke of Westminster, and contains
a celebrated collection of pictures, most
liberally thrown open to the public on
certain days (see p. 25).

Reubens. Ten landscapes by Claude Lorrain.
Mrs. Siddons, by SirJ. Reynolds. The blue
boy, and a cottage-door, by Gainsborough.

At length we reach the north-eastern
corner of Hyde Park, and the MARBLE
ARCH, a stunted imitation of the Arch of
Constantine, which stood in front of
Buckingham Palace until 1850, and was
intended to bear the equestrian statue of
George IV., now in Trafalgar-square.
The bas-reliefs on the north side are by
Sir R. Westmacott, those on the south
side by Baily.

Close by stood the gallows of Tyburn, thus
named after a small village and brook, which
disappeared long ago. The body of Oliver
Cromwell was buried at its foot, and his
head stuck up at Westminster Hall, after the
Restoration.

The fine quarter of the town to the
north of Hyde Park, including portions
of Paddington and Bayswater, is popu-
larly known as TYBURNIA. It was laid
out in 1839-50, and the arrangement and
diversity of its streets reflect credit upon
its founder. The stranger should by no
means omit penetrating into some of
them.

We would suggest to him to walk out-
side the railing of Hyde Park as far as
the water works and Italian garden, at
the head of the Serpentine, where there
is a statue of Dr. Jenner; then to leave
the Park, and to inspect Westbourne
Grove, Junction-road, and Southwick

^/?:-&iE??Cfc; 1 ^^CiyX
?^^/!^^iSj?&? -*-*^^r~ir-B2

"' ." \ v Cv" ; . ir" r\" f'" " TI'"~A ri~~-i?~r-~if^r*fi;f;*-h\4

JkY ...D. E.-.F A...R

t=d

Observe: Five paintings, by Raphael. The
women taken in adultery, by Titian. The
Annunciation, and Marriage at Cana, by Paul
Veronese. Infant Christ sleeping, by Guido
Reni. Own portraits, by Salvator Rosa and
Velasouez. Sarah dismissing Hagar, by

'37

Crescent, all of them shown on tne
small plan annexed. Paddington Station
and its big hotel will hardly repay a
visit.

We then cross Edgware-road and pro-
ceed along Upper Berkeley-street to

'38

27. CENTRAL LONDON.

PORTMAN SQUARE (see plan on p. igS),
built 1790-1800.

In the detached house, to the left, on enter-
ing the square, lived Mrs. Montagu, who held
here her bluestocking parties and entertained
the sweeps on May -day.

We now visit the undermentioned
Squares in succession. :

MANCHESTER SQUARE ; on its north
side the sumptuous mansion of the late
Marquis of Hertford, now the property of
his nephew, Sir Richard Wallace, with one
of the most celebrated collections of
paintings and articles of vertu in the
world.

Observe: The Rape of Europa, by Titian.
La Vierge de Fade, by Andrea del Sarto.
Four holy families, by Murillo. Holy family,
and Rainbow landscape, by Reubens. The
unmerciful servant by Rembrandt. Portraits
of Phillippe and Madame le Roy, by Vandyck.
Water mill, by Hobberna. Fishmonger, by A.

Van Ostade. Views of Venice, by Canaletto.
Nelly O'Brien and other portraits, by Reynolds.

Now across Oxford-street to

GROSVENOR SQUARE, (plan p. 135) built
1720-30, with a statue of George I., by
Van Noost.

The Cato-street conspiracy is connected with
No. 39 on the south side of the square, where
the members of the Cabinet M-ere to be mur-
dered during dinner by Thistlewood and his
fellow conspirators, who proposed to overthrow
the Government, and to establish a sort of
commune in London. Their plot was betrayed
and the conspirators arrested in Cato-street, on
the 23rd February, 1820,

BERKELEY SQUARE, built 1730-40. On
its south side Lansdowne House (Robert
Adam, arch). Priestley, the discoverer
of oxygen, was librarian to the Marquis.

Horace Walpole died in No. II (1797,) Lord
Clive in No. 45.

We now return to Piccadilly and
Charing Cross

27. CENTRAL LONDON.

Distance: 7 miles. There are but few
opportunities of appreciably shortening this
journey by omnibus ; but see our Plan of
London.

lgi|r Soane's Museum open on Wednesdays,
Thursday?, and Fridays, (but see p. 28).
The Surgeons' Museum, open Mondays,
Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, 12
to $. Foundling Hospital, Mondays 10 4,
Sundays 1 1 3. Flaxman Museum, Saturdays
10 4. British Museum, Mondays, Wednes-
days, Fridays, and Saturdays.

We include by this name that portion
of London which lies between the City
and the West End, and to the north of
the Strand,

We start, as usual, from Charing Cross.
Our first object is

COVENT GARDEN MARKET, the great
vegetable and flower market of London,
established in the middle of the ijth
century, the present buildings erected in
1 830 ( W. Fowler, architect). Inigo Jones,
the great architect, proposed to convert
this square into an Italian Piazza, but
only the northern side was completed
(1630-45), and the market is altogether
unworthy of the IVietropolis. It is the

139

property of the Duke of Bedford, who
derives a large revenue from tolls and
rents.

140

27. CENTRAL LONDON.

ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, at the western
side of the market, was rebuilt after a fire
in 1795 (by Hardwicke), in accordance
with Inigo Jones's original design.

Many celebrities are buried in the church
and the churchyard attached to it, amongst
others Butler, the author of Hudibras; Grin-
ling Gibbons, the sculptor; Sir Peter Lely,
the painter; Dr. Arne, the composer of "Rule
Britannia "; Dr. Walcot (Peter Pindar), and
others.

EVANS'S HOTEL, at the western termination
of the Arcade, is noted for its music hall (see
P- 35) 5 steaks, potatoes, and stout. At the
table to the left of the fire-place, in the sub-
terranean dining-room, Dickens, Thackeray,
and other choice spirits used to meet frequently.

Great Russell-street leads from Covent
Garden into Bow-street.

On the right, site of Button's coffee-house
where the Whigs used to meet under Acklison's
leadership. Near it (No. 8) bookseller's shop,
where Boswell first met Dr. Johnson. On the
opposite side of the street, at the corner of
Bow-street, site of Will's coffee-house, fre-
quented by the Tories under Dryden.

Walking up Bow-street we pass between
the police station (on right) and the
principal London police court (on left).
The former marks the site of a house in
which Fielding wrote "Tom Jones."
Immediately beyond is H

COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, the
finest theatre in London, and the third on
its present site. The first Covent Garden
Theatre was erected in 1732, but burnt
down. A second house was opened in
1809, by Kemble. It had been built from
the designs of Sir R. Smirke, and
ornamented with two statues and bas-
reliefs by Flaxman, which still remain, as
do also the columns of Smirke's portico.
Kemble, on opening the new house, in-
creased the prices, and hence the O.P.
(old price) rows, which continued for 67
consecutive nights. In 1847 the theatre
became a home for Italian Opera. The
second fire took place in 1856, after a
masked ball arranged by Anderson, the
" Wizard of the North," but the house was
rebuilt within seven months, under the
direction of Mr. E. M. Barry, who effected
great improvements in the arrangements
of the auditorium and of the stage. The
building is 122 feet wide and 240 feet in

1+1

length. The corinthian portico is 82 feet
wide, and the 6 columns are 36^ feet in
height. The stage is 90 feet square, and
the proscenium 50 feet high. The audi-
torium accommodates 1,915 persons.

The adjoining Floral Hall was built in
1859 (E. M. Barry, architect), and is used
for concerts, as a promenade during the
opera season, &c. Its dome rises to a.
height of 90 feet.

t$ir We now return to Great Russell-street,,
and turning to'the left, reach

DRURY LANE THEATRE, the oldest
theatre of London, first opened in 1663,
when the " King's Company," under Killi-
grew, moved hither from the neighbouring
cockpit It was burnt down for the first time
in 1672. In the second house Garrick
trod the stage. This too was destroyed by
fire in 1794, rebuilt, but again destroyed in
1809. The present edifice was opened in
1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron.
Its architect was Mr. B. Wyatt, but the-
.portico (with a statue of Shakespeare), as,
well as the Colonnade, were added only at
a late date, and until this was done the
exterior, must have had a very barren-
appearance. In the -vestibule a statue of
Edmund Kean (by Carew), and a bust of
Balfe.

Since the desertion of Her Majesty's Opera
House in the Haymarket, in 1867, Drury-lane'
has afforded a temporary home to one of the
two Italian opera companies, which is expected
to move next year into the National Opera-
House, now in course of construction on the
Thames Embankment.

The Colonnade takes us into DRURY"
LANE, up to the reign of William III. one-
of the fashionable quarters of London ;
now one of its most unsavoury streets,
with numerous narrow alleys, the seats of
poverty and vice. We turn to the left.
On the right hand, Pit-place, the site of
the Cock-pit Theatre, the parent of the
present Drury-lane.

Higher up in Drury-lane is Coal-yard, the
birth place of Nell Gwynne.

On reaching GREAT QUEEN STREET,
we turn to the right. The south side of
this street was originally built by Inigo
Jones, about 1630, and for a century it
remained one of the most fashionable -
14.2

27.-CENTRAL LONDON.

quarters of London ; several of its houses
still date from that epoch. The north side
was built a century later. Amongst cele-
brated persons who have lived in this
street are Hudson, (the master of Sir J.
Reynolds), Sir Godfrey Kneller, and
Lord Herbert of Cherbury. The most
important building in it is the Freemasons'
Hall, built in 1777, with the exception
of the front, which is modern.

Little Queen-street branches off to the left.
Lord Russell was led down it to the scaffold in
Lincoln's Inn Fields.

If, instead of proceeding along Great Queen-
street, we turn down Great Wild-street, on the
right, we reach Little Wild-street (second
turning on the left) on the Southern side of
which stood Watt's printing-office, where
Franklin worked as a compositor.

LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS are the largest i
square in London, and are stated to j
occupy an area equal to that occupied i
by the great Pyramid. They were laid
out in 1619-36. Lindsey House, on the
west side (2 vases) was built by Inigo
Jones, who proposed to surround the
whole square by houses uniform in
style ; and in Newcastle House, at the
corner of Queen Street, lived Lord j
Chancellors Somers, Cowper and Harcourt, j
and Thomas Pelham Holies, Duke of i
Newcastle. On the south side were the |
residences of Lord Chancellors Camden, i
Loughborough and Erskine, and down
to the present time the fields are a
favourite residence of lawyers.

Lord William Russell and Algernon Sidney
were beheaded in the Fields in 1683.

Amongst the buildings surrounding
the square are Soane's Museum and
the College of Surgeons. In Portugal
Street, behind, and partly on the site of
this College, stood the Duke's Theatre
(Sir William Davenant, 1662-71).

SOANE'S MUSEUM, (for hours of admission,
see p. 28), was formed by Sir John Soane,
the son of a bricklayer, who made himself a
reputation as an Architect, and is placed in a
house built and planned by himself, which,
together with its contents, was left to the nation
in 1837. It is crowded with antiquities, pic-
tures, books and curiosities, and the most
ingenious contrivances have been invented, to
exhibit so extensive a collection within so

narrow a space.

'43

Observe: In the vestibule, a model of the
excavations made at Pompeii, up to 1818. The
ceilings of the dining-room and library are by
Howard. Over the mantle-piece, a portrait of
the founder, (by Sir Thomas Lawrence.) In the
basement, an Egyptian Sarcophagus or cenotaph
discovered by Belzoni, in 1816, and formed of a
single piece of alabaster. The drawing-rooms
on the first floor contain ivory furniture from
the Palace of Tippoo Sahib, a collection of
gems, and several valuable paintings, including
Hogarth's " The Rakes Progress, " a land-
scape by Turner, and Sir Joshua Reynolds'
" Snake in the grass." Amongst the literary
treasures are the original manuscript of
Tasso's " Gerus alemme liberata," and the first
four folio editions of Shakespeare.

The ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS be-
longs to the Corporation of Surgeons, whose
charter dates from the year 1800, and who
enjoy the privilege of granting diplomas (after
due examination), entitling their holders to
practice medicine within the limits of the
United Kingdom. The College was re-
modelled in 1835-6 by Charles Barry, and
contains a museum, a library and a Lecture
Hall.

The Museum occupies three rooms, the first
containing a pathological, the second a
paloeontological, and the third a physiological
collection. Its basis consists of the valuable
collection of John Hunter, the celebrated sur-
geon (born 1728, near Glasgow, died 1793 in
London), which was purchased by Government
for ;i5,ooo. Amongst the curiosities which
a casual visitor should notice are the skeleton
of O'Brien, the Irish giant, 8 feet 4 inches in
height, the skeleton of Caroline Crachani, of
Sicily, a dwarf, 20 inches in height, the skele-
tons of an Irish elk, and of other antidiluvian
animals.

In the Hall, there is a fine portrait of John
Hunter (by Sir Joshua Reynolds.)

LINCOLN'S INN is a corporation of
lawyers, similar to those of the two
Temples, who appear settled here as early
as the 1/j.th century, but were incorporated
only in 1580. To the left of the entrance
is the new Hall, completed in 1845 in the
Tudor style of the I4th century, by Ph.
Hard wick, with an octagon tower added
in 1872, by Sir J. Scott. The hall is 120
feet in length, and contains a large fresco
by Watts, " The School of Legislation,"
representing the law-givers of the world,
from Moses to Edward I. ; a painting bv
Hogarth (Paul preaching before Felix)
144

27.- CENTRAL LONDON.

and a statue of Erskine (by Westmacott).
The library is on the other side of the
vestibule.

Crossing the square, New-square, on
the right, was finished about 1697 ; Old-
square in front was built in part in 1683 ;
and the Stone-buildings to the left elate
from 1780 and 1845, we reach the Old
Hall, an insignificant building, in which
the Courts of Chancery used to sit
occasionally (Read Dickens's "Bleak
House.") In it the Benchers entertained
Charles II., in 1671. It has recently been
fitted up for the new Court of Appeal.
The Chapel adjoins it. It was conse-
crated in 1623 (Inigo Jones, architect), and
stands upon open arches.

We pass out through a Gatehouse, the
oldest part of the Inn, erected in 1518,
and enter

CHANCERY LANE, which leads to Hoi-
born. We turn off, however, on reaching
Southampton-row, pass the Birkbeck In-
stitution, the most successful Mechanics'
Institution in London, cross STAPLE INN,
and enter

HOLBORN, one of the main thorough-
fares of the metropolis, thus named from
a rivulet (Oldbourne), which ran into the
Fleet, near the present Holborn Viaduct.
It was the old road from Newgate and
the Tower to the gallows at Tyburn.

In front Gray's Inn Road, behind us
some interesting houses, dating back to
the 1 6th century.

The narrow alley, to the right of Gray's
Inn-road "Holboru Buildings" leads to Fox
Court, where was bom RicJiard Savage, the
poet, son of Lord Rivers and the Countess of
Macclesfield, (1698).

The next street to the right (Brooke-street),
leads to the church of Si. Attaris (Butterfield,
architect), one of the most notorious ritualistic
places of worship, opened in 1853. The in-
terior is decorated with much splendour.

We proceed a short distance up Hol-
born, and, passing through a gateway
(built 1592) on the right, enter the south
court of GRAY'S INN, one of the four inns
of court, named after the Lords Gray of
Wilton, from whom they leased this pro-
perty 1371. On the left the fine Hall,
built 1560. Passing through this court,
>ve reach the Gardens, planted about 1600,

and a fashionable promenada in the time
of Charles II.

The great Lord Bacon is said to have planted
several trees in this garden, none of which
remain. He lived in a house on the site of
No. I, Gray's Inn-square, to the north of the
Hall.

We now proceed along Bedford-row
(Dr. Abernethy died in No. 14 ; the Ento-
mological Miiseum in No. 12, see p. 25),
and Lamb's Conduit-street, an uninviting
thoroughfare, to the

FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, an institution
founded by Captain Thomas Coram in
1739, whose statue stands in front of it.
This charity has lost its original charac-
ter, for owing to the vast number of
"foundlings" brought up to London by
"agents" from all parts of the country,
and deposited in the basket hung up at
the door, it was found necessary (in 1780)
to restrict the reception to illegitimate
children whose mother is known and bears
a good character. The hospital has an
annual income of ,12,000. About 300
children are educated at the hospital, and
1 60 nurslings are placed with respectable
families in the country. The present
buildings were erected in 1745-47 (Th.
Jacobson, architect). In the chapel is an
organ, presented by Handel, and on it he
repeatedly performed his oratorio, " The
Messiah," for the benefit of the institution.
The altar painting is by West. Amongst
the pictures shown to visitors are a por-
trait of Captain Coram, by Hogarth ; the
March to Finchley, by the same artist ;
portrait of Lord Dartmouth, by Sir
Joshua Reynolds ; Sutton's Hospital
(Charterhouse), by Gainsborough ; and
several others, most of which were pre-
sented to the institution.

The children sing at the Sunday morning
service, when visitors are admitted, and their
juvenile band plays on Mondays, from 3 to 4.

On leaving the hospital, we turn to the
left, and soon reach GRAY'S INN LANE.

Close by, the Middlesex House of Correction,
with accommodation for 1200 prisoners, on the
cellular system.

On the road to King's-cross, we pass
the FREE HOSPITAL, one of the few hos-
pitals in London which admits the suffer-
ing without a recommendation from a
146

27. CENTRAL LONDON.

governor. Its funds, perhaps on that
very account, are not very flourishing.

KING'S CROSS is one of the great
centres of traffic. On the right we pass
the station of the Metropolitan Railway,
which extends thence underground along
the whole of Euston-road and New-road,
and is connected by underground branches
with the great railway stations to be
noticed presently. The station of the
Great Northern Railway abuts upon the
open space in front of us. Beyond it
rise the towers of the magnificent PANCRAS
STATION of the Midland Railway Com-
pany (Sir Gilbert G. Scott, architect ; W.
H. Barlow, engineer). It is a gothic
brick-building, faced with Portland stone.
The front is 564 feet in length ; the clock-
tower rises to a height of 278 feet ; the
central-tower to 200 feet. The roof of the
station, behind the hotel, is 700 feet long,
240 feet wide, and 98 feet high in the
centre. The floor rests upon 600 cast-
iron pillars, and the space beneath it is
used as stores for beer.

Pancras-road, to the right of this station
leads to Pancras Church, a neat building in the
Norman style, built in 1848. In the church-
yard, the tomb of Paoli, the leader of the
Corsicans (died 1807), and of many other
foreigners of distinction. On the road thither
we pass the German Gymnasium (EX Craning,
architect.)

Continuing our walk along the, Euston-
road, we soon emerge upon Eust 'on-square.
At its corner new ST. PANCRAS. CHURCH
built 1819-22 (Messrs. In wood, architects).
It is in the classical style, and combines
the Erechtheum, with the temple of
Minerva Polias, and other ancient build-
ings.

On reaching the statue of R. Stephenson,
we turn to the right. We thus face the
fine doric gate leading into the court-yard
of EUSTON STATION (P. C. Hardwick,
architect). In the hall of the station
another statue of Stephenson and bas-
reliefs, by S. Thomas, personifying the
leading commercial towns of England.

We return to Euston-road. On reaching
Gower-street, we turn to the left, to

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. This institu-
tion of learning was founded in 1828 by
the exertions of Brougham and others, at

a time when the great Universities were
closed against all except members of the-
Established Church. There are two facul-
ties of Arts, Laws and Science, and of
Medicine, and everything almost is taught
except Divinity. A school for boys is-
attached to the college. The number of
professors and masters is 83. The
building was erected from a design by \V-
Wilkins. A broad flight .of steps leads
up to a Corinthian portico, surmounted
by a dome, beneath which is placed the
Flaxman Museum, containing the
original models of many of the most
celebrated works of this celebrated
sculptor. In the cloister below, illustra-
tions from Homer, in marble niello, by
Baron de Triqueti, presented to the
College by Mr. Grote, the banker and
historian.

The Hospital opposite is attached to the
medical school of the college.

On leaving the college turn to the left
and take the first turning on the left, which
brings you to Torrington Square and the-
Apostolic Church, a fine early Gothic
building (Brandon, architect). Next to it
the College Hall of University College, in
the Elizabethan style (by Donaldson).

We now cross Gordon, Square an:! 1
Tavistock Square.

In No. 37, Tavistock-place, Bailey made his
celebrated experiments on the weight of the
earth.

Woburn Place takes us to RUSSELL.
SQUARE, built 1800-1806, and is the prin-
cipal square in Bloomsbury. There is a.
statue of a Duke of Bedford (by
Westmacott).

In No. 71, lived Lord Chancellor Lough -
borough, in 67, Mr. Justice Talfourd, in 65,
died Sir Thomas Lawrence.

The street opposite the statue takes us-
to BLOOMSBURY SQUARE, built 1690-1710,
with a statue of C. J. Fox (by Sir R.
Westmacott). Mr. Isaac Disraeli, the
father of the Prime Minister, lived ir
No. 6.

We are now close to the BRITISH
MUSEUM which will be fully described im
i chapter 40.

Not far from here is Bedford-square, built at:
j the same time as Russell-square, and hard!}'
! worth a visit.

148

28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

Museum Street, opposite to the Museum,
leads down to NEW OXFORD STREET.
On the left, St. Georges Bloomsbury
(Hawkesmoor, architect, 1731,) with
Roman portico and pyramidal spire, sur-
mounted by a statue of George III.
disguised as St. George.

We now walk along New Oxford-street
as far as Tottenham Court Road. This
fine street was opened in 1847 and leads
through what was known formerly as
the " Rookery " of St. Giles, a resort for
thieves and disreputable persons. On the
road we pass Bloomsbury-street, where
three churches belonging to three different
professions stand side by side.

At the corner of TOTTENHAM COURT
ROAD stands Meux's Brewery, and close
to it the "Horse-shoe," with bar and dining
rooms.

A flying visit may be paid to SOHO-SQUARE,
which was built in 1670-90, and has a statue

of Charles II in its centre. In the north-
west angle is the Soho Bazaar, which should
be visited on an afternoon, when fashion-
able ladies do their shopping here. Sir
Joseph Banks and Robert Brown, the botanist,
lived in a house in the south-western angle of
the square.

We turn down the street opposite
Tottenham Court Road, which leads
through Sf. Giles, one of the poorest
quarters in London, to Charing Cross.
On the right St. dies' Church, with a fine
steeple and much admired interior, by
Flitcroft (1753).

On arriving at the Seven Dials, where
seven streets branch off in different direc-
tions, we can either continue along St.
Martin's Lane (the Westminster County
Court on the right) to Charing Cross, or
we can turn off to the left and proceed
through Garrick-street, (where the Garrick
Chib, established 1 83 1, for actors and their
patrons), to Covent Garden Market.

28.-STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

Distance : 3 miles, including all digressions.

Strand and Fleet-street constitute per-
haps the most important thoroughfare in
all London, and from the earliest times
they have been the great highway con-
necting Westminster with the City of
London. At that time no houses separated
this high road from the " Strand" of the
river Thames. At a subsequent date the
space between it and the river was occu-
pied by the mansions of lords temporal
and spiritual. The first houses on the
north side were built in the time of
Edward VI. The Strand is now one of
the busiest streets for the retail trade,
with numerous fine shops, and the
majority of the west-end theatres in it,
or within its immediate vicinity.

The first building which strikes the
stranger on walking towards the City is
the CHARING CROSS HOTEL (E. M.
Barry, architect).

In front of it an imitation of the Eleanor
Cross, which formerly stood at Charing Cross,
and marked the last stopping place of the body

149

of Edward I.'s queen on the way to West-
minster Abbey. Behind the Hotel, the Charing
Cross Station, with a roof 450 ft. long, 170
feet wide, and 100 feet high.

The ball of the Telegraph office opposite
drops at I p.m. Greenwich time, an event always
watched by a small crowd, anxious to regulate
their watches.

Immediately to the east of the Station is the
site of York House, in which was born the great
Lord Bacon, and which subsequently passed
into the possession of Villiers, Duke of
Buckingham, the favourite of James I. The
" Watergate" at the foot of Buckingham-street,
is the only remnant of this ancient Mansion.

Durham-house, originally built by a bishop
of Durham, in the reign of Edward I, adjoined
York House on the east. Lord Guildford and
Lady Jane Grey celebrated their nuptials in it,
( l $53)' Queen Elizabeth presented it to Sir
Walter Raleigh. Subsequently it was converted
into an Exchange (Britain's purse). Durham-
street marks its site.

LOWTHER ARCADE, a bazaar abounding
in toys and cheap jewellery, is nearly
opposite the station. A little beyond, on
the same side of the street, is Charing-

150

28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

cross Hospital, opened in 1818. Passing
the entrance to the Adelphi Theatre, we
turn down Adam-street, on the right, and
walk to the Adelphi-terrace, built by the
Brothers Adam.

Here a fine prospect over the Thames
Embankment. In the centre house died
Garrick, the actor.

The house of the SOCIETY OF ARTS is in
John-street, which opens into Adam-street.
This society was founded in 1754, for the pro-
motion of arts, manufactures and commerce.
Under the presidency of Prince Albert, it took
the initiative in promoting an International

Exhibition in 1851. In the meeting-room are
James Barry's allegorical pictures (1777 83).
Admission by member's order, or on applica-
tion.

We return to the Strand.

We pass Salisbury and Cecil-streets on
the right. They mark the site of Cecil
House, built by the first Earl of Salisbury,
and pulled down in 1696.

On the left is Southampton-street,
which leads to Co vent-garden Market (p.
139), and opposite to it stood Worcester
House, in which the Duke of York
(James II.) was betrothed to the daughter
of Lord Chancellor Clarendon.

Rimmell's Perfumery shop, on the right
was at one time occupied by Lillie, like-
wise a perfumer, whom Steele mentions in
the "Tattler."

Nearly opposite is EXETER HALL, its
narrow entrance flanked by tall Corinthian
Columns. It was erected in 1831, on the
site of an " Exchange" and menagerie
(Deering, architects), and accommodates
4,000 persons. It is used for concerts and
meetings, in particular the meetings of
religious societies, which are held in May.

Savoy-street, on the right, leads past
the SAVOY CHAPEL to the Thames
embankment. The chapel was built by
Henry VII, and, having been partly de-
stroyed by fire, it was restored in 1865, by
the Queen. There is a fine glass window
in it (by Willement), in memory of the
Prince Consort.

Savoy Palace was built by Peter of Savoy,
the uncle of Henry the Ill's Queen, (1245), and
became subsequently the residence of John of
Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. During Wat
Tyler's rebellion, (1381), the palace was de-
stroyed, and its last fragments were removed
when Waterloo Bridge was built. The " Savoy
Conference" for the revision of the Liturgy and
prayer-book, took place in the chapel after the
restoration of Charles II. (1661).

A few paces take us hence to Wel-
lington-street, (the principal entrance
of the Lyceum theatre, a short distance up
it, on the left), which leads to Waterloo
Bridge, from the centre of which may be
enjoyed a fine view of the river front of
Somerset House.

SOMERSET HOUSE occupies the site of
a palace, built by the Protector Somerset,
152

28. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

in which Queen Elizabeth, Anne (the wife
of James I), and Catherine of Braganza,
(the consort of Charles II), held their
courts. The present edifice was erected
1776-86, and is considered to be the
masterpiece of Sir William Chambers, its
architect. The Strand front is 155 feet in
length, and consists of a rusticated base-
ment surmounted by Corinthian columns,
bearing an attica. The nine "masks" on
the keystones of the arches represent
Ocean (in the centre), and the eight prin-
cipal rivers of England, viz. Thames,
Humber, Mersey and Dee (on the right),
Medway, Tweed, Tyne and Severn, (on
the left). The four statues represent
Truth, Justice, Courage and Moderation.
On the top, the Royal Arms supported by
Fame and the Genius of England.

In the vestibule leading to the great
quadrangle, are the entrance door-ways to
the suites of rooms, formerly occupied by
the Royal Society, and by the Royal
Academy of Arts, and above them busts
of Sir Isaac Newton and Michael Angelo.

The Quadrangle is 224 feet wide, and
319 feet deep. Facing us a statue of
George III, with Father Thames reposing
at his feet (by John Bacon). In front the
rear of the river front, with an open arcade
of Corinthian columns in the centre, sur-
mounted by the arms of the Admiralty,
and a cupola. Behind us the back of the
.Strand front, with statues, representing the
four quarters of the World.

GUT The entrance to the Will Office is in this
quadrangle (open daily, 10 to 4). The wills
of Shakespeare, Nelson, Van Dyck, Dr. John-
son, Newton, Pitt, and of other celebrities may
"be seen there.

The river front of Somerset House is best
Seen from the centre of Waterloo Bridge, or
from the Thames Embankment.

The new western front, facing Welling-
ton-street, was added, in 1854-6, by
Pennethorne, and is 300 feet long.

The faqade towards the Thames is one
of the noblest in London. It rises from a
fine terrace, 600 feet in length. In the
centre rises a cupola, above an entablature
borne by Corinthian columns. Open
arcades separate the main building from
ihe t\vo wings. The eastern of these was
added in 1829 by Smirke. It is occupied

'53

by King's College (see below), and that
portion of it which faces towards the
Thames alone harmonises with Somerset
House.

Somerset House is occupied now entirely by
Government Offices, and particularly by the
Inland Revenue Department, the Registrar
General, and certain branches of the Ad-
miralty.

Until recently, some of the leading scientific
Societies, including the Royal Society and the
Royal Academy, had the use of suites of apart-
ments in Somerset House, but they have now
all removed to the New Burlington House,
specially built by Government for their
accommodation.

KING'S COLLEGE adjoins Somerset
House on the east, with an entrance from
the quadrangle as well as from the Strand.
It was founded in 1828, as a rival to Uni-
versity College, on the principle, " that
every system of general education, for the
youth of a Christian community, ought to
comprise instruction in the Christian reli-
gion, as an indispensable part." There
are four departments, as well as a pre-
paratory school. There are 50 professors
and 33 masters, and the clerical element
is unusually strong amongst them. The
education is of superior kind. The
examinations for degrees are conducted
by the London University.

The Museum (daily, IO to 4, Saturday, 10
to 2), contains Babbage's calculating machine,
a collection of mechanical models and philoso-
phical instruments. There is also an Anatomical
Museum.

ST. MARY-LE- STRAND was built by
William Gibbs in 1777.

It occupies the spot where in former times
stood a tall May-pole, removed, in 1644, by
the Puritans, but re-erected with great re-
| joicings after the restoration.
i Drury Court, a dirty narrow passage to the
left, leads to Drury-lane. Nell Gwynne lodged
in it in 1667.

Holywell- street is behind the church. It is
full of secorrd-hand book shops, and owes its
name to an ancient well, which still supplies
the old Roman Bath in Strand-lane, to the
right of the church.

We continue our walk along the Strand,
passing, in succession, Surrey-street (in
which lived Congreve, the actor and play-
wright, when Voltaire paid him a visit),

'54-

28 STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

Norfolk-street (in which lived William
Penn), and Arundel-street (which occu-
pies the site of Arundel House, the old
town mansion of the Bishop of Bath).

Lord Seymour, the guardian of Queen Eliza-
beth, when a princess, lived in this house, and
subsequently the Earl Arundel, whose cele-
brated collection of gems and antiquities, was
dispersed in 1678.

ST. CLEMENT DANES was built on the
site of an older church, in 1680 (Sir
Christopher Wren, architect). It is said to
owe its name to the many Danes buried
in its vicinity.

'Tickett-street, behind the church, is one of
the oldest metropolitan improvements, and was
effected by means of a lottery, the new houses
constituting the prizes !

Clements Inn, (entrance behind the church),
one of the Inns of Chancery attached to the
Inner Temple, is close by. Justice Shallow
was a student at Clements Inn, and Wenceslans
Hollar, the engraver, lived in it. The figure
of a kneeling Moor was brought from Italy, by
an Earl of Clare.

The grated doorway of this Inn leads into
Clare Market and Vere-street, the latter
remarkable as the site of one of the earliest
London theatres, at which an actress appeared
for the first time in England, in 1660.

Now back to the Strand.

On the left are rising slowly but
steadily the NEW LAW COURTS, designed
by Mr. Street. They will be in the gothic
style. On the right side are the sites of
the Outer Temple and of Essex House ;
in front of us is TEMPLE BAR, the only
remaining City gate, built in 1670 by Sir
C. Wren, and doomed to removal.

The outer Temple was leased by the Knights
of St. John to the bishops of Exeter, who
resided in it from the time of Edward I., to
that of Henry VI. Subsequently the use of
these buildings was granted to a Duke of Nor-
folk, and the Earls of Leicester and Essex.
The only remains of it (two columns), may be
seen in the high gateway at the bottom of
Essex-street.

In Devereux Court, (next to Essex-street),
stood the old Grecian coffee-house, the oldest in
London.

We now pass through Temple Bar and
enter FLEET STREET, which abounds in
reminiscences of literary personages.
There are many newspaper offices in it,

and close to it some of the largest printing
establishments in London, including those
of the Daily News, Daily Telegraph, and
Standard.

On our right, adjoining the bar, is Childs*
bank, the oldest in London, and at the side of,
it stood, until 1787, the celebrated Devil's
Tavern, which was frequented by Ben Jonson, ;
Dr. Johnson, Swift and Addison.

On the opposite side was Shire-lane, where '
Bickerstaff, the founder of periodical literature
in England lived, and the Kit-Kat Club
originated .

Before continuing along Fleet-street, we visit
the Middle and Inner Temple, to which there
are several entrances from Fleet-street, besides
two from the Strand. The most showy entrance
is that through a gaily decorated house opposite
Chancery-lane, the occupier of which lives
under the delusion that it was at one time the
palace of Cardinal Wolsey, and of Henry VIII.

J8" We enter the Temple through the first
gateway beyond Temple Bar. The visitor
should explore the various courts. He will be
struck by the quiet which reigns here, as com-
pared with the noise in the adjoining Fleet-
street. The principal objects of attraction are
the Temple Church, the two Halls, and the
Temple Gardens.

The TEMPLE is the principal amongst
the Inns of Court (see p. 84) and was
occupied by the Knights Templar from
1184 to 1313. It was then given by
Edward II. to the Earl of Pembroke,
at whose death it passed to the Knights
of St. John, by whom the Inner and
Middle Temples were leased to students
of law. At the dissolution of the religious
houses the Temple property passed to the
crown, and in 1608 James I. conferred it
on the Benchers (or Governors) of the
two law societies who now hold it, and
their successors for ever.

We walk down Middle Temple Lane to
Brick Court and Fountain Court.

In Middle Temple lane, lived Dr. John-
son (house pulled down), and in No. 2, Brick
Court, second floor, died Oliver Goldsmith, the
author of the " Vicar of Wakefield."

The MIDDLE TEMPLE HALL, on the
south side of Fountain Court, was built
in 1572. Its exterior was cased with stone
in 1757, but the interior is exceedingly
handsome, with a fine carved oak-roof, a
screen in the renaissance style, and marble
busts of Eldon and Stowell, by Behnes.

156

28 STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

A little further down the lane we reach
the grated doorway which admits to the
INNER TEMPLE. On the right the
LIBRARY, in the collegiate gothic style
(H. R. Abraham, Architect), opened in
1861. Beyond it the TEMPLE GARDENS,
where a fine display of Chrysanthemums
:may be seen in autumn.

According to Shakespeare, the badges of the
: houses of York and Lancaster, red and white
; roses, were first assumed in these Gardens,
(Henry VI. 1st Part, Act II. Scene 4).

On reaching the open space known as
*'' Terrace Walk," we have facing us,
i beyond Queen's Bench Walk, a gate lead-
ling to Temple-street and the quarter
formerly known as Alsatia, and on the
left, close by, the new HALL OF THE
IINNER TEMPLE, and a passage leading
to the Temple Church.

The Hall was almost entirely destroyed
by fire in 1678-9, but was rebuilt, in 1816,
'by Sydney Smirke. In it is a painting by
J. Thornhill, representing Pegasus on
'< Mount Helikon, and stained glass windows
i by Clayton and Bell. The door of the
vestibule dates from 1575, and several
other traces of the old Hall, such as the
groined arch of the present buttery, re-
main.

The TEMPLE CHURCH is the joint pro-
perty of the societies of the Inner and
! Middle Temple, and one of the few
interesting ecclesiastical buildings to be
met with in London. It consists of two
portions, viz., the Round Church, built in
1185 in the Anglo-Norman style, and a
choir in the early English style, completed
in 1 240. The church has been carefully
irestored in 1837-42, at a cost of 70,000.

On the pavement of the Round Church
the monumental effigies of several Knights
Templar, one of whom is said to be
"William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, the
Protector of England during the minority
of Henry III. (died in 1119). This
" Round" served formerly as a place where
lawyers received their clients.

The choir contains a stained glass
window (by Clayton and Bell), and a
white marble monument to Selden (died
1654), at the side of the altar. The organ j
of the church was built by Schmidt, and j
contains 3334 pipes.

'57

A circular stairs leads to the Triforium,
where several interesting monuments may
be seen. On the way to it observe the
cell for the bell-ringers with a lychnoscope
(squint) affording a view of the altar.

Oliver Goldsmith lies buried outside the
church, to the east of the choir. No tomb-
stone marks his last resting place.

The Cloisters adjoining the church were
rebuilt by Wren, and were used formerly
by students as an ambulatorium.

We pass now out of the Temple
through the Inner Temple Lane (Dr.
Johnson, and Charles Lamb lived in it),
and again reach Fleet-street, opposite
Chancery -lane.

By walking a short distance up this Lane,
we reach the LAW INSTITUTION, built 1828-32,
by Vulliamy, for a society of attorneys, to whom
it offers all the convenience of a club, an.
extensive library, and an official register of
attorneys and solicitors. Nearly opposite are
Serjeant's Inn and Rolls Buildings, the latter
with a small church (in the yard), which was
used formerly as a Record office, by the Master
of the Rolls, whose official residence adjoins it.
This church contains a monument ascribed to
Torregiano.

We return to Fleet-street.

The church on the left, ST. DUNSTAN'S
IN THE WEST, was built by Shaw, in
1833, and has a fine gothic tower.

We walk through the passage on its right
into Clifford's Inn, cross it towards the right,
and thus reach Fetter-lane and the RECORD
OFFICE, a fire-proof building, erected since
1856, in the Gothic style, (Pennethorne, archi-
tect), which contains the Records of the king-
dom, and amongst others the celebrated
Domesday Book, which William the Conqueror
caused to be prepared.

tjgg State papers dating up to the " Revo-
lution" can be consulted daily in the reading
room, which is open free. On payment of a
small gratuity, the doorkeeper conducts a
stranger into some of the fire-proof rooms.

We return through Fetter-lane to Fleet-
street. At the corner, Peele's Coffee-house,
where may be seen files of the Times for
many years back ; and on the other side
of Fleet-street, Mitre-court, with a tavern,
the direct successor of the one frequented
by Johnson and Boswell. We now pass
again along Fleet-street. Either of the
streets on the right leads into a quarter of

158

23. STRAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BANK.

the town known as Whitcfriars, from a
carmelite monastery which stood here
until the time of Henry VIII., when it
became the property of the Bishops
of Worcester. The inhabitants of this
district managed to secure for themselves
many " liberties," which attracted to it
insolvent debtors, gamblers, swashbuck-
lers, and other bad characters. The dis-
trict was known at that time as Alsatia,
and its manners have been graphically
described in Sir Walter Scott's " Fortunes
of Nigel." These privileges at length be-
came intolerable, and they were abro-
gated in 1696, by Act of Parliament.

We pass Cranc-coiirt on the left. At
its bottom the Scottish Hospital, in a
building which was the meeting place of
the Royal Society when Sir Isaac Newton
was its president.

In Johnson' s-court, No. 7, lived Dr.
Johnson 1766-76.

If we walk up this court we reach Gough-
square, surrounded by noble looking houses,
which was reckoned amongst the fashionable
quarters of the town, scarcely more than a cen-
tury ago. In an attic of No. 1 7, Dr. Johnson
completed his dictionary. We return through
Bolt-court to Fleet-street, passing No. 8, in
which Johnson died.

Shoe-lane, on the left, contains a
tavern in which rare Ben Jonson kept his
revels. Opposite to it is Salisbury-court,
leading to Salisbury-square.

In its vicinity stood the Duke's Theatre, as
early as 1634, upon the boards of which
Davenant produced the first opera, in 1662.
John Dryden, the poet, and Richardson, the
novelist, lived here, and in Dorset-court, close
by, Locke wrote his " Essay on the Human
Understanding."

ST. BRIDE'S CHURCH was completed in
1703 by Sir Christopher Wren, and is
looked upon as one of his masterpieces.
The fine steeple rises to a height of 234
feet, and is constructed in imitation of the
whorls of a species of univalve shell.
Amongst those buried in the church are
Wynkin de Worde, the printer ; Richard
Lovelace, the poet ; Ogilvy, the translator
of Homer ; and Richardson, the novelist.

We have now reached LUDGATE HILL
CIRCUS, surrounded by fine buildings,
rendered hideous by glaring advertise-

159

ments. In front of us Ludgate-hill,
crossed by a railway bridge, which hides
St. Paul's Cathedral ; on the left, Far-
ringdon-street, which passes underneath
the Holborn Viaduct ; on the right, New
Bridge-street, which leads to the new
Blackfriars Bridge. The two obelisks
commemorate two popular members of
Parliament, R. Waithman and J. Wilkes.

Farringdon-street and New Bridge-street
occupy the site of an old rivulet or ditch,
known as the Fleet, The gothic building in
Farringdon-street, the Congregational Memo-
rial Hall, occupies the site of the Old Fleet
Prison, of inglorious memory, whence some of
the earliest martyrs to liberty of conscience,
walked to the place of execution (Greenwood
and Barrow, in 1593). The building is the
head quarters of the Congregationalists or
Independents, and was opened in 1874,
(Architect, Tarring).

We now proceed up LUDGATE HlLL.
About the middle of it, close to St.
Martin's Church (architect, Sir C. Wren),
stood the ancient City gate, which was
named after a fabulous King Lud.

Behind this church (access through Stationer's
Hall Court), stands STATIONERS' HALL, the
Hall of the Company of Stationers, which was
incorporated by Philip and Mary, in 1557, with
a view of checking the publication of heretical
books. James I. granted it the privilege of
being the sole printers of almanacks, primers,
psalters and psalms. This privilege has long
ago been abrograted, (though the Stationers
continue to publish their almanack), but every
book published in the United Kingdom has to
be entered at Stationers' Hall, in order to in-
sure to it the advantages of copyright.

We return to Ludgate-hill and soon
afterwards emerge upon St. Paul's
Churchyard, the open space which sur-
rounds St. Paul's Cathedral, fully described
in chapter 38. In front of the Cathedral
an indifferent statue of Queen Anne, to
whom Britannia, Gallia, Hibernia and
America do homage. On the north side
there are favourite drapers' shops, on the
south side several fine warehouses, and
a gateway leading into Doctors' Com-
mons.

Doctors' Commons, at one time the centre of

the Doctors, and Courts of ecclesiastical and

maritime law, but now comparatively deserted,

as most of the law-business has been removed

160

23.-STBAND AND FLEET STREET TO THE BATTF.

to Westminster, and the Will Office has found
a new home in Somerset House.

Cocker, the popular arithmetician, lived in a
house a little beyond the entrance to Doctors'
Commons.

ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL stands behind the
Cathedral, and the fine spire of St.
Augustine (by Wren) peeps out to the
right of it.

This public school was founded in 1512, by
Dean Colet, for 153 boys, and was placed by
him under the superintendence of the Mercers'
Company . The present income is about .5000
a year. The boys receive a good classical
education, and may carry off exhibitions. The
present school-building was erected in 1823
(G. Smith, architect).

Amongst celebrated scholars were Milton,
the Duke of Marlborough, Haley.

On emerging from St. Paul's Church-
yard we enter CHEAPS IDE, the centre of
the retail trade in the city, leading to the
Bank. At its bottom a statue of Robert
Peel (by Behnes).

Behind this statue Paternoster-row, a gloomy
street, in former times occupied by dealers in
" paternosters " or rosaries, now the head-
quarters of the London publishing trade.

In Forster-lane (on the left) St. Vedast's
one of Wren's churches, with a fine steeple.
Milton was born in Bread-street, the third
street on the right, where also stood the
Mermaid Tavern frequented by Shake-
speare, Sir W. Raleigh and Ben Jonson.
Nearly opposite to it is Milk-street, in
which was born Sir Thomas More.

The CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL in Milk-
street, was established in 1835, for the educa-
tion of the sons of professional and commercial
men. There is a small endowment, and a few
exhibitions are connected with it, but nearly all
the boys pay ^10 IDS. a year. The course of
instruction includes the ancient and modern
languages.

The projecting clock on the opposite
side of the street belongs to Bow CHURCH
(St. Mary-lc-Bow). It was erected by
Christopher Wren after the great fire, on a
Norman vault, in which the ecclesiastical

court called the " Court of Arches," used
to sit in former times, but which is now-
filled with coffins. The tower is 235 feet
in height, and Fergusson says of it that
" no modern steeple can compare with
this, either for beauty of outline or appro-
priate application of classical detail."
From the balcony beneath the clock
Royalty used to witness in olden times
the jousts and ridings in Cheapside.

Since 1469, Bow Bells have been rung every
night at nine o'clock. There are ten bells now,
cast in 1762, the largest weighing 53 cwt,
22 Ibs. Of Cockneys it is said that they must
have been born within the sound of Bow bells.
The term " Cockney, " a nickname for
Londoners, appears to have been derived from
"Cocagna," or "land of Cockaign, " a
favoured region, where food and all luxuries
may be obtained without labour.

On the same side of the street is Sir
John Bennett's Shop, with an illuminated
clock, a time ball and two .giants (imita-
tions of Gog and Magog) who strike the
hours.

On the left, the tastefully carved front of
MERCERS' HALL (the usual entrance in
Ironmonger-lane).

This is one of the most influential amongst
the various City Companies. Its oldest charter
was granted by Richard II., and amongst its
members were Sir Thomas Gresham, the
builder of the Royal Exchange, and Whitting-
ton. The present Hall was built after the great
fire.

The short street which connects Cheap-
side with the open space in front of the
Mansion House is called the POULTRY.
I The church at the corner (St. Mildred's)
j is one of the many built by Wren after
the great fire.

In No. 31 Tom Hood was born.

Next to No. 37 (on the left), the entrance to
GROCERS' HALL. The Grocers were incorpo-
rated by Edward III, in 1345? having been
known until then as " Pepperers." The exist-
ing Hall was built 1798-1802 (Thomas Lever-
ton, architect). It contains nothing to interest
the stranger.

161

29. THE HEABT OF THE CITY.

Observe : The Mansion House is shown by
permission of the Lord Mayor (or on applica-
tion). Gratuity. The public rooms of the
Bank of England are open to strangers, but the
vaults, &c., are shown only by order of a
Director. The Royal Exchange closes at five
minutes to four. The two great days are
Tuesday and Friday, 2 to 3 p.m.

We have now readied the heart of the
City, where the life flowing through its
arteries pulsates most. In our rear is the
Mansion House, the official residence of
the Lord Mayor, in front of us are the
Royal Exchange and the Bank of England,
whose very names conjure up ideas of
commercial enterprise and substantial
wealth.

The MANSION HOUSE was erected by
G. Dance, the city architect 1732-52. A
design forwarded by Palladio, through Lord
Burlington, was rejected, it is said, by the
city fathers, who had never before heard
the name of that famous architect, and
doubted the orthodoxy of his religious
opinions. There is a portico of six
Corinthian columns, and in the pediment
above it an allegorical piece of sculpture
(by Sir R. Taylor), representing the City
triumphing over her enemies, with Neptune
looking on complacently.

The entrance to the City Police Court is
below the portico, that to the State apartments
in the street on the right. The so-called
Egyptian Hall has been designed by the Earl
of Burlington, in accordance with a description
to be found in Vitruvius. There are several
valuable works of art in it (Caractacus and
Egeria, by Foley, Comus, by Lough ; Genius
and the Morning Star, by Bailey). It is the
principal scene of the entertainments which the
Lord Mayor is expected to offer to his fellow
citizens, during his term of office.

ST. STEPHEN'S, Walbrook, behind the Man-
sion House, is one of the churches built by
Wren. The interior is exceedingly elegant.

163

Eight stone pillars support an hemispherical
roof of timber and lead. The altar-painting
is by West, the east window by Willement.

Sir John Vanburgh, the architect, lies buried
in one of the vaults.

The ROYAL EXCHANGE was founded in
1565 by Sir Thomas Gresham ; but the
building erected in his time perished in
the " great fire," and the same fate over-
took the new Exchange erected by Sir
C. Wren. The present building was
built 1841-44, from a design by Mr. Tite,
and occupies an area measuring 293 feet
by 175. The portico on the west front is
formed by eight Corinthian columns, and
is 96 feet wide and 76 feet in height. The
pediment contains an allegorical group in
marble, by the younger Westmacott.
Commerce, holding the charter of the
Exchange, occupies the centre. To the
right are figures of City office-bearers ;
to the left English merchants ; and be-
hind both foreign merchants. The gates
are of cast-iron, bronzed, and bear the
arms of the twelve great City Companies.
(See p. 79).

The two long faades are enriched with
pilasters. That on the north has statues
of Hugh Myddleton and R. Whittingham,
whilst that on the south exhibits the arms
of Sir Thomas Gresham and of the
Mercers' Company.

A clock-tower, 178 feet high, rises on
the east fagade. It contains a set of
thirteen bells, and, in a niche, a statue of
Sir Thomas Gresham.

The equestrian statue of Wellington, in front
of the Exchange, is by Chantrey, that of
Peabody at its back, is by Story, an American.

The Quadrangle, inclusive of the
covered walks which surround it, is 170
feet long and 104 wide. In its centre
stands a statue of Queen Victoria (by
Lough). In the four corners of the walks
are the coats of arms of Edward the
Confessor, Edward III., Queen Elizabeth
and Charles II. ; on the walls, as well as
on the keystones of the upper arches, the
arms of all nations, in the order of prece-
dence established by the Congress of
Vienna.

A staircase near the east end of the quad-
rangle leads into LLOYD'S SUBSCRIPTION
ROOMS, a centre of intelligence for merchants,

30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

shipowners and underwriters. These rooms
are open only to subscribers.

The BANK OF ENGLAND was founded
in 1694, by W. Patterson, a Scotchman,
and is the first Joint Stock Bank estab-
lished in England. The whole of its
capital Gi4,553,ooo) has been lent to
Government. It is both a Bank of
Deposit and of Issue, and its bank-notes
are legal tender throughout the kingdom.
It is entrusted with the management of
the National Debt. Its government is
vested in a governor, a deputy-governor,
and 24 directors, who are elected by the
stockholders, and must hold stock to a
considerable amount. The room in which
they meet is called the Bank Parlour. The
dividends paid to stockholders in 1875
amounted to 9^ per cent., and the price
of bank stock was ^257.

The Bank was removed from Grocers'
Hall to its present site in 1734 ; but the
buildings then erected by Mr. George
Sampson, and subsequently added to by
Sir Robert Taylor, were either removed
altogether or considerably remodelled by
Sir John Soane. They cover an irregular
area of about four acres ; the principal
front, in Threadneedle-street, is 365 feet
long ; the longest, in Princes-street, 440
feet. The whole of the buildings and
courts are surrounded by a screen, having
a stone coping behind its balustrade,
which was added in 1849, in consequence
of the Chartist meeting. The corner at
the further end of Princes-street, an imita-
tion of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli,
is much admired.

The interior is conveniently arranged
for business purposes. The entrance
from Threadneedle-street leads into a
paved court. The door in front opens
into the Pay Hall, where bank-notes are
issued and paid in (the Bullion-room lies
beyond) ; the door on the right leads into
the " Rotunda? where the dividends are
paid, and this communicates with six
other offices connected with the manage-
ment of the Public Debt, amongst which
is the Dividend Warrant Office, built
1835 by Cockerell. Two rows of columns
run down its centre.

Visitors provided with a Director's order
are shown : the "vaults of the Bullion office,
where the treasure of the bank is kept ; the
sovereigns weighed on most ingeniously con-
structed balances, which discriminate between
coins of full and light weight, throwing the
latter into a separate box. The Bank-note
printing room, where Oldham's wonderful
printing machine may be seen at work. The
Old Note Office, where the notes paid in are
preserved for ten years. A bank-note for
; i, 000,000, is shown here as a curiosity. The
binding-room, where the 300 books required
daily are bound, and their pages numbered, &c.

The STOCK EXCHANGE is in Capel-court,
behind the Bank, and was removed thither in
1 80 1. The existing exchange was built by
Allanson, in 1853. The members are divided
into Jobbers and Brokers, and their election is
fenced round with stringent conditions to ensure
their being solvent.

S&~ Strangers who venture within these
sacred precincts are bonnetted and turned out.

30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

Distance : 4^ miles.

Observe: Guildhall Library and Museum,
and Missionary Museum, open daily. Ad-
mission to the Halls of City Companies by a
member's order, or on payment of a gratuity.

We start from the Mansion House, and
proceed through Princes and Gresham-
streets to the Guildhall. On the road we
notice GRESHAM COLLEGE, at the corner
of Basinghall-street, founded in 1579 by
Sir Thomas Gresham, for the delivery of

165

lectures on divinity, the arts, and sciences.
The present building was erected in 1843.
The lectures are held in accordance with
the deed of endowment, but there are very
few persons to attend them.

At the left hand corner of the short
street leading to the open space in front
of the Guildhall, stands St. Lawrence
Jewry, one of Wren's churches, and a
drinking fountain.

Observe the hundreds of tame pigeons.
166

30.-A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

The GUILDHALL (Town Hall) of the
City of London was first built about 1411,
but with the exception of the crypt, which
still remains, and a portion of the walls,
the whole of it was destroyed by the great
fire. The present front is the work of
Wren and Dance ; the fine open timber
roof was added to the hall in 1865.

The Great Hall is 153 feet long, 50 feet
broad, and 55 feet high. It contains a
few monuments of no particular merit,

viz., Lord Chatham (by J. Bacon, inscrip*
tion by Burke) ; William Pitt (by Bubb,
inscription by Canning) ; Nelson (by
Smith, inscription by Sheridan) ; Wei*
lington.

In order to gain room for the latter, the
statue of Lord Mayor Beckford had to be
removed . It was inscribed with a remonstrance
which he intended to address to George III.,
when presenting a petition respecting the elec-
tion of one of the members of Parliament.

i. Armourers' Hall. 2. Sion College. 3. Barbers' Hall.
4. Goldsmith's Hall. 5. Telegraph Office. 6. Christ Hospital.
7. St. Sepulchre. 8. St. Andrews. 9. St. Bartholomew. 10.
Missionary Museum, u. Carpenters' Hall. 12. Drapers' Hall.
13. Merchant Taylors' Hall.

The statues of Edward VI., Queen
Elizabeth, and Charles I., at the eastern
end of the Hall, were removed hither from
an old chapel, and the figures of the two
City giants, Gog and Magog, at the other
end, were carved in 1708, by Saunders.
The coats of arms are those of the twelve
great City Companies. The stained win-
dow at the eastern end was presented by
Lancashire operatives, in recognition of
the support they received from the citizens
of London during the cotton famine.

The Hall is used for public meetings, and on
the Qth of November, of each year, the Lord
Mayor elect gives in it a Dinner, attended by
the Ministers and the great Law Officers of the
Crown (see p. 78).

I6 7

A flight of steps leads from the great
Hall into the vestibule, ornamented with
busts of Canning, Palmerston, and Lord
Derby. The Common Council Chamber,
which adjoins (but is not generally open
to the public) contains a few statues and
portraits.

We return now to the entrance, and
turning to the left, proceed through a
vaulted passage to the CITY LIBRARY,
which is housed now in a fine gothic room
(Horace Jones, architect). It contains
about 50,000 volumes, and is thrown
open to the public on the most libera
terms.

We pass through the library and descend
the stairs to the ill-lighted basement of the
building which contains the City Museum
(mostly antiquities found in London).

l<gjf On leaving the Museum, we find our-
selves in Basinghall-street, and can either take

168

30.-A WALK THEOTTGH THE CITY.

the shortest road to the Post-office (through
Gresham-street), or make a detour, leading us
past St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and some other
objects of interest.

Mason's alley opens .nearly opposite to
the Museum Entrance. Pass through it
into Coleman-street. Turn to the left. At
the corner of London Wall, is

ARMOURERS' HALL, where may be seen
a fine collection of mazers, hanaps, caps,
arms, c.

We now follow the street called London
Wall, which marks the site of the ancient
Roman Wall of the city. On the left,
just beyond the church at the corner of
Aldermanbury, Sion College, a theological
library and almshouse founded in 1631 by
Dr. Thos. White, Residentiary of St.
Paul's. The street opposite Aldermanbury
leads into Fore-street, (one of its side
streets is Milton-street, and was in former
times a refuge for poor authors, whence it
was known as Grub-street), and the latter
to the church of

ST. GILES', CRIPPLEGATE, built in
1545, after a fire. In it lie the mortal re-
mains of Milton. Portions of the ancient
Roman Wall may be seen in the cemetery,
which is generally locked.

The Barber Surgeons Hall, Monkwell-street,
is close by. It contains a picture, by Holbein,
representing Henry VIII, presenting the
Charter to the Company, which is shown be-
tween 12 and I, daily.

We pass down Wood-street 9 and on
reaching Gresham-street turn to the right.
At the corner,

GOLDSMITH'S HALL, built 1833-35 by
Philip Hardwicke, and is the finest build-
ing of this kind in London, unfortunately
hidden in one of the back streets. The
company received their first charter in
1327 and are still entrusted with the
assaying and stamping of all gold and
silver plate manufactured in London. The
interior of the Hall is decorated with much
taste and should be inspected (apply to
doorkeeper). On the grand staircase,
statues by Nixon, representing the four
seasons, as well as various portraits and
busts. The Court Room has a mantle-
piece from Canons, the country seat of th'e
Duke of Chandos, and said to be the work
of Roubiliac. The Drawing Room is fitted
up with much splendour, but the most in-
169

I teresting is the Hall, with a richly de-

j corated ceiling borne by Corinthian

columns of scagliola. In it are placed the

Art Treasures of the company, amongst

I which a cup by Cellini.

Passing through the short narrow street
we find ourselves in St. Martin's-le-
Grand, and between the General Post and
the Telegraph Offices. A* short distance
to our right, where Aldersgate-street
begins, we perceive the church of St.
Botolphs (Dance, sen., architect).

The GENERAL POST OFFICE was
erected in 1825-9 by Sir Robert Smirke.
Its front is 389 feet long, and Portland
stone is the material almost exclusively
used. The Ionic columns of the three
porticos are enlarged from those of the
temple on the Ilyssus, the entablature is a
barren imitation of that of the temple of
Teos. The central portico formerly led
into a fine Hall, 80 feet long by 60 wide,
but this has been bricked up and con-
verted into offices. The more the pity !

The Post restante is under the centre por-
tico, to the right. The busiest time in front of
the office is on Fridays, about 5 p.m.

THE POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE on
the opposite side of the street, was com-
pleted in 1874, (J. Williams, architect).
It is an imposing edifice, with a front 285
long and 84 feet high, in the construction
of which utilitarian considerations alone
prevailed. The telegraph business of the
Post Office, as well as the Money Order
and Post Office Saving's Bank business,
are carried on in this building.

On reaching the Monument of Pitt (by
Behnes), we turn to the right, into New-
gate-street.

In Panyer Alley, on the left, a curious
sculpture and inscription, pointing it out as the
highest spot in the City.

In Bath-street, opposite, behind the Tele-
graph Office, was the first Bagnio (sweating
bath) in the time of Charles II. Then follows
Bull's Head-court, with sculptures of Charles I. 's
giant and dwarf (Jeffery Hudson), over the
entrance, and opposite to it Queen's Head
Passage, in which Dolly's chop-house, an old-
fashioned eating-house.

Soon afterwards we reach Christ's Hospital,
the playground of which is separated from,
Newgate-street by an iron railing.
170

30. -A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

CHRIST'S HOSPITAL was founded by
King- Edward VI.. by the advice of Dr.
Ridley, bishop of London, in 1553, for the
relief and education of fatherless boys,
and installed in an old convent of Grey-
friars. Charles II, in 1672, added a
"mathematical school" for the instruction
of 40 " King's boys " in navigation, and
the institution has much increased in
wealth by subsequent benefactions, and it
now maintains and educates 1 130 children,
of whom 300 are kept at a preparatory
school at Hertford.

The management of the school is vested in
foundation and donation governors, the former
including the Lord Mayor, 12 Aldermen and
12 Common Council men, and the latter all
those who have made a donation of .500.
The annual income of the Hospital amounts to
^60,000. The boys are admitted on presen-
tation by a governor between the ages of seven
and nine, and they cannot remain at the school
after they are fifteen, unless they are " King's
boys" or "Grecians," (boys in the highest
class). The boys still wear the dress of the
time of Edward VI, consisting of a blue coat,
a yellow petticoat, a red leather girdle round
the waist, yellow stockings and shoes with
buckles. They wear no head-dress.

The " Grecians" deliver orations before the
X,ord Mayor and the other Governors, on St.
Matthew's day, and every Thursday, from
Quinquagesima Sunday to Good Friday, they
sup in public (admission by governor's order).
On Easter Tuesday, they visit the Lord Mayor
at the Mansion House, when each boy receives
a gold or silver coin, and a cake.

Amongst eminent men educated at this
school are William Camden, the author of
"Britannia," S. T. Coleridge, the poet,
Charles Lamb (Elia), Leigh Hunt, H. S.
leigh.

A narrow passage leads from Newgate
to Christ Church, (Wren, architect), at
the side of which is the gateway leading
into the " Garden " of the school, an old
churchyard surrounded by cloisters. The
new play-ground adjoins this on the west,
and is overlooked from Newgate-street.
At its back the New Hall, built 1823-29,
(Thomas Shaw, architect).

It is a well proportioned room and contains
several interesting pictures, by Holbein (?)
Verri, Francis Grant, and J. S. Coplay.

In the counting house may be seen a portrait
of Edward VI. by Holbein.

171

Continuing our walk along Newgate-
street we pass Warwick-lane, where there
is a curious piece of sculpture on a wall
to the left. On reaching the corner of
the street we have Newgate Prison on the
left, St. Sepulchre's Church in front.

Giltspur-street, on the right, leads iato
Smithfield.

The great fire of 1666 stopped at its
further (Pye) corner, and in Cock-lane,
one of its side-streets, was enacted the
curious spirit-rapping imposition of the
" Cock-lane ghost."

NEWGATE, an old gate-house, was used as
a prison for centuries, until it was burnt down
by the mob, during the Gordon riots. The
present building was erected in its stead
(George Dance, Architect), and opened in
1783. The style of the building is appropriate
to its purpose. The interior was re-arranged
on the cellular system, in 1858, and a new
wing added. Between 1783 and 1867 the
executions of criminals took place in front of
this prison. They now take place in the Court-
yard in the presence of the Sheriffs, the Judge
and a few other persons, including represen-
tatives of the Press.

Amongst others who have been confined in
this prison were William Penn, Titus Gates,
Defoe, and Jack Sheppard. Jonathan Wild,
the thief taker, lived opposite (now No. 68,
Old Bailey).

The Central Criminal Court (Old Bailey),
adjoins the prison on the south.

ST. SEPULCHRE'S CHURCH, the bell of
which, is tolled when an execution takes place
in Newgate, was built in the reign of Henry VI.
or Edward IV. but has been much modernised.

We now cross the HOLBORN VIADUCT,
one of the most important city improve-
ments effected recently (W. Heywood,
Engineer), between Holborn Hill and
Snow Hill, and is ornamented with statues
representing Art, Science, Commerce and
Industry.

Immediately beyond is Dr. Parker's
City Temple, a place of worship of the
Independents, opened in 1875, an ^ St.
Andrew's Church, built by Wren. On
Holborn Circus, an equestrian statue of
Prince Albert (by Bacon).

In Ely-street, close by Ely Chapel, which
formed part of a Palace of the bishops of Ely,
and was probably built during the reign of
171

30. A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

Edward II. This remnant of ancient London
has recently passed into the hands of the
Roman Catholics, by whom it is used as a
place of worship.

We turn again citywards, and passing
down the half-finished Charterhouse-
street^ reach

SMITHFIELD, one of the most consider-
able open spaces in the city, originally
called Smoothfield, and celebrated for
its jousts and tournaments, executions,
burnings of heretics and the uproarious
" Bartlemy Fair," abolished in 1851. For
more than 300 years it was used for a
cattle market.

Richard Wallace was executed here in 1305,
and Roger Mortimer in 1330. Sir William
Walworth slew Wat Tyler in 1381, and 300
Protestant martyrs died at the stake during
the reign of Henry VIII. and of Queen Mary
(commonly called "bloody Mary.").

The METROPOLITAN MEAT MARKET
covers a large portion of old Smithfield.
It is a vast building in the rennaissance
style, 300 feet in length, 246 feet in width,
with towers at the corners, and was
opened in 1868. The statues on the
southern fagacle, represent London and
Edinburgh, those on the northern, Dublin,
and Liverpool. The Metropolitan railway
passes beneath, and a spiral road leads
to the station. Some idea of the business
done here may be gathered from the fact
that more than three million cwts. of meat
are sold here every year.

A smaller building in the same style, is
used as a Poultry Market. Mr. Horace
Jones was the architect of both.

ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL is the
oldest institution of this kind in London,
and was founded in 1102 by Rahere, a
penitent minstrel, who was ordered to per-
form this act of charity by St. Bartholomew
hin. self, who appeared to him on his
return from a pilgrimage to Rome.
Amongst the earliest benefactors of the
institution was Whittington, thrice Lord
Mayor of London. It affords accommoda-
tion to 676 patients, and enjoys an annual
revenue of ,40,000. A Medical School
and an Anatomical Museum exist in
connection with it.

Not a trace of the original building remains.
The Gate towards Smithfield was built in 1702,
173

and is ornamented with a bust of Henry VIII.
and figures of Lameness and Disease. The
great Quadrangle (entrance from Duke-street
to the left, opposite to which is Bartholomew
Close, where Franklin worked as a printer),
was built in 1730-70 by Gibbs. The staircase
of the main building was decorated by Hogarth,
gratuitously, and in the Court-room are
several good portraits by Sir. Joshua Reynolds,
T. Lawrence, Kneller and others. The Chapel
was erected in 1789 by Dance, (it is visible
through the railings from Smithfield.)

ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S THE GREAT is
close by, at the bottom of a narrow
passage. It is one of the most interest-
ing churches of London, and formed part
of the priory founded by Rahere, whose
canopied tomb is on the north side of the
Altar. Choir and transept alone are of
early date. The brick tower was erected
in the I7th century. The entrance gate
is a fine specimen of early English.
The eastern apse and the three arches in
the nave are Norman, other parts are in
the perpendicular style, and the clerestory
is early English.

Before we continue our walk it may be
worth while to pay a visit to ST. JOHN'S
GATE, which belonged to an Hospital of the
Knights of St. John, and dates back to the
1 5th century. Passing through this gate-way
we reach an open court, where, on the right,
an unpretending church, erected on the crypt
of the old Hospital church.

Continuing in the same direction we reach
Clerken-well Green, with St. James's Church,
(1788-92) and the Sessions House (1780-82.)

Having returned to Smithfield, we turn
to the left, and reach the

CHARTERHOUSE, an hospital, chapel,
and school -house, founded in 1611, by
Thomas Sutton, for the education of 40
boys, and the sustenance of 80 decayed
gentlemen, and since much enlarged. It
was formerly a priory of Carthusian monks,
(hence the name, which is a corruption of
Chartreuse), whose last prior was executed
at Tyburn, in 1 535. Charter-house school
was removed, in 1872, to Godalming, and
the buildings sold to the Merchant
Taylor's, who removed hither their own
school, founded in 1561.

Amongst eminent men educated at the
charterhouse were Blackstone, the author of
the commentaries, J. Addison and Sir Richard

174

30. A WALK THROUGH THE CITY.

Steele, John Wesley, W. M. Thackeray,
Bishop Thirl wall, George Grote, the historian
of Greece, General Sir H. Havelock -and John
Leech, the illustrator of Punch.

lgg The interior is shown only on payment
of a gratuity.

The gateway in Charterhouse-square, is said
to date from the 1 5th century, and part of the
Great Hall, the Great Staircase and the Gover-
nor's Room are Elizabethan. The CJuipd was
restored in 1842, and contains Button's sump-
tuous tomb, the work of Nicholas Stone. In
the Master's Lodge 'are several valuable portraits,
including one of Dr. Burnet, author of the
Theory of the Earth, 1685-1715. The new
school-house of the Merchant Taylors is in the
Gothic style, and was built in 187374 (E. J.
Anson, architect). It adjoins a large play-
ground.

lH!" On reaching Aldersgale-street, we mount
a chocolate-coloured tram-car, which takes us
through Old-street to the City-road, where we
descend.

In OLD STREET, we observe on the left,
St. Luke's church, having an obelisk for a
steeple (James, architect, 1732). Further
on, on the same side of the street, ST.
LUKE'S HOSPITAL, a lunatic asylum,
established in 1751 by voluntary contribu-
tions, (funded property, ,147,000). The
present building was erected in 1782, and
has a front 493 feet in length. It accom-
modates 300 patients.

The narrow street on the left of the Hospital,
leads past the almshouses, founded 1619 by
Alleyn, the actor, and to the French Hospice,
founded in 1717, as an asylum' for poor Protes-
tants driven from France, in consequence of
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, (1686).
This institution was removed to a new building
near Victoria Park, in 1866.

At the corner of the street, a Lying-in
Hospital, for married women, founded in
1771.

We turn to the right, along CITY-ROAD.
On the right, BUNHILL FIELDS BURIAL
GROUND, first opened during the great
plague of London, in 1665, when it was
still surrounded by open fields. It after-
wards came into the possession of the
Dissenters, who objected to the burial
service of the Church of England, and
became their Campo Santo. Between
1713 and 1832, no less than 107,416
bodies were buried in this small piece
of round. '

Amongst the eminent persons buried in it
are Dr. Thomas Goodwin (d. 1679), who
attended Oliver Cromwell on his death bed.
John Bunyan (d. 1688), author of "The
Pilgrhn's Progress." George Fox (d. 1690),
the founder of the sect of Quakers. Fleetwood
(d. 1692), Cromwell's son-in-law. Daniel
Defoe (d. 1731), author of "Robinson
Crusoe." Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1748), the
Hymn writer. Tho. Stothard (d. 1834), the
Artist.

In the Methodist Chapel, opposite, is
buried John Wesley, the founder of
Methodism.

We continue along City-road. The
castellated building on the^ right is the
Barracks of the London Militia. Its gate
leads into the Artillery Grounds, which
occupy the site of the Campus Martium
of the Romans, and passed into the
possession of the Honourable Artillery
Company in 1622. This Company is the
representative of the old City Trained
Band, established in 1585, when the
Spanish Invasion was impending. It
consists of a well-trained force of infantry
and horse-artillery, and stands at the
head of the Volunteer Corps.

Finsbury Square remains on the lett.
Opposite to the Metropolitan Railway
Station, at the bottom of Moorgate-street
we turn to the left into FINSBURY CIRCUS.
On its northern side the London Institu-
tion founded in 1805, with large library
and reading-rooms. Leaving the Circus
by a street directly opposite to that by
which we entered, we pass a church, on
the left, in which Weber's, the composer's,
remains where deposited until their removal
to Dresden, and reach Bloomfield-street.
| Near by, to the left, are Broad-street and
Liverpool-street Stations, connected by
covered passages (hardly deserving a
visit), and almost opposite is the

MISSIONARIES MUSEUM (open daily, 10104,
Saturdays^ IO to 2), established by the London
Missionary Society, and containing an ethno-
logical collection, specimens of natural history,
&c., brought together by the Society's Mission-
aries from all parts of the world.

Bloomfield-street leads into Lonaon-
Wall, and the latter into Old Broad-
street.

Opposite Bloomfield-street a narrow passage,
which leads to Carpenters' Hall, in which may
I 7 6

31.-QUEEN VICTORIA-STREET AND THE THAMES
EMBANKMENT.

be seen (by permission of the Messrs Waterlow,
who- occupy the room), four paintings in
distemper, as old as the reign of Edward IV.

On the road to Old Broad-street we notice,
on the right a Greek Chapel.

Old Broad-street contains some of the
finest business houses in the city, amongst
which Gresham House (on the left) is one
of the most stately. (Strangers are per-
mitted to wander through the passages
leading to the numerous offices.) A little
further, on the same side of the street,
and opposite to the insignificant St-
Peter's Church, stands the City Club
(erected 1832-33 by Hardwicke.)

A gateway on the right, immediately
before reaching the bifurcation of the
street, leads into AUSTIN FRIARS, where
may be seen the Dutch Church. It
originally belonged to a house of Augus- '

tine Friars, founded here in 1243 by
Humphrey Bohun.

Edward VI. gave it to the Protestants, who
came over from Emden (1550), and it is still in
the possession of a Dutch congregation. The
church is in the decorated style. It was
nearly gutted by fire in 1852, but has been
carefully restored. The roof is new.

We return to Broad-street, and, turning
to the right, enter Throgmorton-street^
In it the Hall of the Drapers' Company,
with a richly decorated facade.

This company was incorporated in 1439.
Their Hall occupies the site of the house and
garden of Thomas Cromwell, the minister of
Henry VIII., and was built after the great
fire of 1666 by Jarman. The front towards the
street is by the Brothers Adam. (Admission
by order of a member.)

We are now close to the Bank whence
we started.

31. QUEEN VICTORIA-STREET AND THE THAMES
EMBANKMENT.

Distance from the Bank to Charing Cross
ij miles.

QUEEN VICTORIA-STREET is amongst
the most recent Metropolitan Improve-
ments, and the many fine buildings which
have already arisen in it, enable the
stranger to form some idea with respect
to the condition of architecture in London.

The first big building on the left belongs
to the Safe Deposit Company. It stands
upon four floors of fire-proof vaults,
protected by steel plates, and surrounded
by patrol-walks, so as to render the
chances of a burglar getting at the
valuable documents and property deposited
within them, exceedingly small.

St. Mary Aldermanbury , on the right,
was rebuilt after the great fire, by Wren,
who contented himself in this instance
with reproducing the original church,
which had been erected in the beginning
of the 1 5th century. Watling-street, one
of the oldest in the city, and already ex-
isting in the time of the Romans, is to
the left of this church.
177

We cross Cannon-street, and pass three
other churches by Wren, two of them in
narrow bye-streets. On the right

HERALDS' COLLEGE, a red brick build-
ing, erected after the great fire of 1666, on
the site of old Derby House.

Herald's College, or the College of Anns, is
a corporation founded by Richard III, in 1483,
for the purpose of studying heraldry, and of
keeping a record of all coats of arms granted
by the crown. The corporation consists of
three Kings-at-Arms, (Garter, Clarencieux and
Norroy), 6 Heralds, (Lancaster, Somerset,
Richmond, Windsor, York, and Chester), and
4 Pursuivants, (Rouge Croix, Blue Mantle,
Portcullis and Rouge Dragon). The appoint-
ments are made by the Duke of Norfolk, as
hereditary Earl Marshal.

Several curiosifies are preserved in the
College, including a pedigree of the Saxon
Kings, from Adam, made in the time of Henry
VIII.

The large building on the right belongs
to the British and Foreign Bible Society,
which enjoys an annual revenue of
^222,000, (about one half of which from

31,-QTTEEN VICTORIA STREET AND THE THAMES
EMBANKMENT.

donations,) and annually distributes or
sells about 2,800,000 Bibles printed in 240
languages or dialects. Samples of these
Bibles are shown in the windows. Next
to it, St. Andreiifs-by-the-Wardrobe, one
of Wren's churches, and a little further on,
on the same side of the street, the new
TIMES OFFICE, a red brick building.

The " Times " was founded in 1788 by Mr.
Walter, and still remains the property of his
descendants. The composing and machining
of the paper is done in an old building to the
rear of the showy new office, in Printing-house-
square, where stood, in the reign of the Stuarts,
the Royal Printing Office.

Admission is granted on written application
to the "Manager of the Times Printing Office."

The narrow street debouching from this
small square leads to the Apothecaries Hall,
the property of the Society of Apothecaries,
incorporated in 1617, and still entitled to
grant certificates to medical practicioners.
Play-house Yard, at the back of this Hall,
marks the site of an old monastery of Black
Friars, secularised by Henry VIII. In it
Parliament used to sit, and the Court for
the trial of Catherine Howard, Henry's fifth
wife (executed in 1540) was held. The
Emperor Charles V. lodged here during his
visit to England (1522). Subsequently the
monastery was pulled down and fashionable
buildings arose in its stead. A Theatre was
built in 1575 (hence the present name). The
painter Van Dyck died in this quarter of the
town, in 1642, and a few years afterwards the
great fire swept away the whole of it.

We pass beneath a railway bridge and
reach New Bridge Street, leading to
Blackfriars Bridge.

On the other side of the street the site of an
ancient Palace, Bridewell, presented in 1553
to the city, and converted into a prison for
youthful criminals. On the left, a Moorish
Building, one of the underground railway
stations ; opposite to it, at the corner of the
Victoria Embankment, De Keyser's Hotel.

Igg" It may be worth while to walk to the
middle of Blackfriars Bridge. The dome of
St. Paul peeps out behind an ugly railway
(Alexandra) bridge, and to the left stretches
out the Thames Embankment, as far as the
Palace of Westminister. The steeples of
St. Brides, St. Dunstan's (gothic, octagon),
St. Clement's Danes, and St. Mary's-in-the
179

Strand, are - most prominent. The bulky
square tower belongs to the Record Office.

The THAMES EMBANKMENT must rank
amongst the most important works under-
taken and successfully terminated by the
Metropolitan Board of Works. That
portion of it which extends from Black-
friars Bridge to the Houses of Parliament
is known as Victoria Embankment, and
is 6,640 feet in length. Opposite to the
Houses of Parliament, in front of St.
Thomas's Hospital, is the Albert Em-
bankment, 4,270 feet in length ; and higher
up the river, at Chelsea, the Chelsea
Embankment, 3,956 feet in length. The
total cost of these embankments amounted
to ,2,403,269 ; the Victoria Embankment
along which we now propose to walk,
costing 1,122,447, m addition to 450,000
which was expended in the purchase of
land. The river wall, 40 feet in height, is
of massive granite, and beneath the wide
carriage road run the low level sewer and
the Underground Railway.

Blackfriars Bridge, at the lower end
of the Embankment, was built 1866-69,
by W. Cubitt, on the site of an older
bridge. Its total length is 922 feet, and
the central span is 185 feet wide. The
piers are of granite, the columns of
polished granite, with capitals of Portland
stone, and the arches of wrought iron..
The bridge cost 350,000.

Walking along the Embankment, we
pass the Temple Gardens, with the
Buildings and the Gothic Library facing-
the river, and the front of Somerset House
(see p. 152). In front we have

Waterloo Bridge, one of the finest in
the world, erected 1811-17, by John
Rennie, sen. It is 2,456 feet in length,
including the approaches, and 51 feet
wide. Each of its nine semi-elliptical
arches is 120 feet wide. The bridge was
built by a private company, and is stated
to have cost more than a million. The
tolls levied upon passengers hardly pay
the expenses of maintenance.

From the centre of Waterloo Bridge, a fine
view of Somerset House (see p. 152).

The street immediately beyond the
bridge leads past Savoy Chapel into the
Strand. We then enter the Ornamental 1
1 80

32. TO THE TOWER.

Grounds. High above us, on the right,
Adelphi Terrace, built by the brothers
Adam (Garrick's House in the centre),
and beyond it the Water Gate, the only
remaining portion of York House, by
N. Stone, (seep. 150). In front

Charing Cross Bridge, which occupies
the site of the old Hungerford Suspension
Bridge, and was constructed in 1863 by
Hawkshaw, for the South- Eastern Rail-
way Company. It is an iron lattice bridge,
resting upon the brick piers of the old
bridge, and upon cast iron cylinders.

Immediately above this bridge there is
a Floating Bath. On the right North-
umberland Avenue, a new street, which
leads to Charing Cross (p. 95). Nelson's
Column is conspicuously visible now, but
it will be concealed by the houses which
it is proposed to erect in this street. In
the garden in front of us, a statue of
General Outram, who became famous
during the Indian Mutiny. We then pass
to the back of the houses in Whitehall
Gardens, and of the residence of the
Duke of Buccleuch (Montague House),

and reach the NATIONAL OPERA HOUSE,
which is being erected from a design of
Mr. F. Fowler (see page 32). St. Stephen's
Club marks the upper termination of the
Embankment. We have reached

WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, built 1856-62
from designs of Mr. Page. It is 1,160
feet long, 85 feet wide, and consists of
seven arches of iron, resting upon stone
piers. The centre span is 120 feet wide.
The foundations for the granite blocks of
the piers rest upon piles of elm and iron,
and are 30 feet below low water. The
bridge cost 378,000.

The first Bridge on this site was built 1739-
50, by Labelye, a Swiss, but the scour produced
by the removal of Old London Bridge under-
mined its foundations, and it had to be re-
moved. The present structure is one of the
finest in the world.

We now return to Charing Cross, avail-
ing ourselves for this purpose of one of
the yellow omnibuses which cross the
bridge at frequent intervals.

J8~ A walk over Westminster Bridge, the
prospect from which is deserving attention, is
provided for in chapter 34.

32. TO THE TOWER.

Distances : From Blackfriars Station to the
Tower, and back to St. Paul's Cathedral
(inclusive of digressions) 2 \ miles.

Observe: Tower ; open daily, 10 to 4.
Billingsgate Market should be seen early in the
morning (fish sales at 5 a.m.) The busiest
time of the Coal Exchange is Monday,
Wednesday and Friday, between I and 2
p.m. At the Corn Exchange, Mondays, 10
to 3- The Mint is shown only by order of
the Deputy Master (see p. 26). A tasting
order for the London Docks should not be
forgotten.

Ig^" The walks described in chapters 32 and
33 may conveniently be combined.

We take the visitor through Lower Thames
Street, to the Tower and the Mint (first part
of chapter 32) ; then to the London Docks,
the Tunnel, and a few other curiosities in the
extreme East of London (chapter 33) ; and
finally bring him back to St. Paul's or the
Mansion House (second part of chapter 32).
1*1

We proceed from Charing Cross or
Westminster, by underground railway, as
far as the Blackfriars Station (the Moorish
building, close to Blackfriars Bridge,
noticed p. 179). On leaving the Station
we turn to the right, pass under the
railway bridge, and turn down Upper
Thames-street, which branches off from
Queen Victoria-street, opposite the Times
Office.

UPPER THAMES-STREET, and its con-
tinuation, Lower Thames-street, connect
Blackfriars with Tower Hill. They are
narrow and dirty, full of gigantic ware-
houses, and usually much crowded. St.
Bennefs, on the left, is a neat edifice by
Wren. It contains the tomb of Inigo
Jones, the great architect.

Between it and the Thames stood Baynard's
Castle, originally built by a soldier of fortune
who came over with William the Conqueror.
182

32.-TO THE TOWER.

It was forfeited to the crown in mi, and
passed afterwards through many vicissitudes.
One of its owners was Robert Fitzwalter, the
banner bearer of the city of London, in 1213,
whose daughter, Matilda the Fair, was coveted
by King John. The old castle was destroyed
by fire in 1428, but rebuilt by Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester. Richard Duke of
Gloucester (Richard III.) resided here, as well
as Henry VII. No trace of this building
remains now.

The narrow lane to the right, close to it,
leads to Dowgate, an ancient gate in the river
wall, from which there was a ferry in
the time of the Romans. A portion of the
station occupies the site of the ancient Staple
yard (Steel-yard) of the Hanseatic Merchants,
which was granted to them in 1473 on pay-
ment of an annual rental of 70, and remained
their property until within a few years ago.
In 1866 it was pulled down to make room for
the present railway station.

We pass the church of St. Mary
Somerset (by Wren), on the left, and
reach St. Michael's, Queenhithe, another
church by Wren, with fine carvings by
Grinling Gibbons, and a ship holding a
bushel of corn instead of a vane.

In the reign of Henry III. the revenues
derived from the small haven of Queen's
Hithe (Ripa Reginae) were granted to the
Queen. It was then, and for many years
afterwards, the principal place of import for
corn and fish, and the ship on the top of
St. Michael's refers to the former of these
branches of commerce.

St. James 1 , Garlick-hill, is another of
Wren's churches, and nearly opposite to
it stands Vintner's Hall, the property of
one of the great city companies.

It stands in the Vintry Ward, so called be-
cause it used to be inhabited by the Bordeaux
merchants, whose wines were landed at the
bottom of Three Cranes Lane.

We cross the street leading to South-
wark bridge. College Hill on the left
leads to the church St. Michael Royal,
founded by Whittington, the celebrated
Lord Mayor, who was buried in it.

The present edifice is by Wren. Close by
stood a Royal Palace, called Tower Royal,
as well as several other noble mansions, all
of which have disappeared.

We now face the dark passage leading
beneath Cannon-street Station.
183

Cold Haroour-lane, on tne other side of tiie
Station, marks the site of Colon Herbergh,
which was at one time the property of the
merchants of Cologne, who obtained their
first privileges in this country in 1236.

All H allow s-the-Gr eat, on the other
side of the dark passage, was built by
Wren, after the great fire, and contains
a fine screen presented by the Hanseatic
Merchants. In front of us we see the
Viaduct, leading to London Bridge. One
of the streets near it leads to the Old
Swan Pier, whence steamboats start for
Greenwich and Gravesend, and close to
it is Fishmonger's Hall (described in
chapter 34).

St. Magnus, the church beyond the
bridge, is likewise by Wren. Coverdale,
who first translated the Bible into English
lies buried in it. Fish-street-hill, opposite
to this church, leads to the

MONUMENT erected to commemorate the
Great Fire of 1666, which originated close by.
in Pudding-lane. It is a Doric column, 202
feet high, surmounted by a vase of flames or
urn, 42 feet high, and was designed by Sir
Christopher Wren. A staircase of 345 steps
leads to a gallery, which was encaged in 1842,
to prevent suicides. The bas-relief on the
pediment is by Caius Gabriel Gibber, the sou
of Colley Gibber. It represents Charles II.
consoling the Citizens of London. An in-
scription was added in 1681, (at the time of
Titus Oates's plot), which ascribed the " dread-

184

32. TO THE TOWER.

ful burning of this Protestant City" to the
" treachery and malice of Popish faction" a
statement for which there is not the least foun-
dation. This offensive paragraph was removed
in 1831, and there remains now only the original
inscription written by Dr. Gale, Dean of York.

% From the top of this column one of the
finest views of London may be enjoyed, superior
in some respects, to that from St. Paul's.

We return to Lower Thames-street, and
soon afterwards reach BILLINGSGATE
MARKET, anciently a market for fish, corn,
salt and provisions of all kinds, but since
1699 exclusively a fish-market, whence
the retail dealers throughout London, and
the perambulating costermongers, draw
their supplies. Fish-shops abound in this
quarter, and a fish-dinner may be enjoyed
at the Three Tuns Tavern, n, Billings-
gate (at i and 4 p.m.)

The market is said to be named after Belin,
a fabulous British King, and has become
proverbial for foul language.

The old market buildings having become too
small for the increasing trade, more commo-
dious premises are at present being erected
from a design of Mr. Horace Jones, the City
.architect.

The corner house opposite, with a cir-
cular tower, is the COAL EXCHANGE, built
1848-49 (J. B. Bunnings, architect). The
interior decorations are by F. Sang, and
bear reference to coal-mining.

Strangers can enter at all times. They pass
up by a circular staircase, which leads to the
galleries surrounding the lofty Exchange Room.

A Hypocaust of a Roman House or Bath was
discovered on digging the foundations of the
Exchange, and is shown on Tuesdays, Thurs-
days and Saturdays, between 10 and I.

St. Dunstan's Hill, a few steps from
Coal Exchange, leads to the church of St.
Dunstan's-in-the-East, with a tower by
Wren, copied from the celebrated tower of
St. Nicholas, at Newcastle-on-Tyne. The
body of the church is by D. Laing.(i82i).

The CUSTOM HOUSE occupies the
considerable portion of the other side of
the street. It is at least the fifth building
on the present site, erected for collect-
ing the Customs of the Port of
London. The former buildings, including
that from a design by Sir Christopher
Wren, were destroyed by fire. The
existing building was planned by David
185

Laing, and erected 1814-17, and its foun-
dations having given way, the central
portion was taken down, and the river
front remodelled by Robert Smirke. This
front is 480 feet in length, and has some
j pretence as a work of architecture, whilst
J the back of the building consists merely
j of plain brick and mortar.

Strangers may freely enter and pass to the
" Long Room" on the first floor. This apart-
ment is 186 feet long and 60 feet wide, and the
business connected with the coasting trade is
carried on in it.

We continue along Lower Thames-
street, between gloomy warehouses, and
finally emerge upon

TOWER HILL. Before us rise the walls
of the Tower of London ; on the left, on
the other side of a patch of green, rises
Trinity House ; and beyond the Tower
I stands the Royal Mint. W T ithin a few
steps from where we stand is a small cir-
cular hut, which forms the entrance to the
Tower Subway, and the sentry near it
marks the entrance to the Tower.

A full description of the Tower will be found
in chapter 39. Strangers may visit the interior
of the Tower now, or after their return from
the London Docks.

Tower Hill, until 1747, was a place of
execution. Amongst celebrated persons exe-
cuted were : B ishop Fisher and Sir Thomas
More, in 1535. Cromwell, Earl of Essex,
1540. Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley,
beheaded 1549, by order of his brother, the
Protector Somerset, whose own head fell in
1552. Lord Guildford Dudley, the husband
of Lady Jane Grey. 1553. Earl of Strafford,
1641. Archbishop Liud, 1644. Algernon
Sydney, 1683. Earl of Derwentwater, im-
plicated in the rebellion of 1715. Lords
Kilmarnock and Balmerino, 1746. Lord
Lovat, the last person beheaded in this
country, 1747.

William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania,
was born in a house on the east side of Tower
Hill, close to the old London Wall.

The TOWER SUBWAY was opened in
1870, and consists of an iron tube, 8 feet
high, and 1,330 feet in length, which con-
nects Tower Hill with Tooley-street, on
the other side of the Thames. Formerly,
passengers were conveyed by lifts and an
omnibus, but they are now required to
walk. Mr. Barlow was the Engineer, and
186

32. TO THE TOWER.

he completed this useful work in less than
a year, and at an expense of only ,16,000.

TRINITY HOUSE, an unpretending
building erected in 1795 by Samuel Wyatt,
is the property of the " Master, Wardens
and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or
Brotherhood of the most Glorious and
Undivided Trinity, and of Saint Clement,"
a corporation charged with the erection
and maintenance of light-houses, pilotage,
examination of masters of merchant vessels
and pilots, and several other matters con-
nected with the merchant marine. It was
first incorporated about 1514.

The ROYAL MINT was erected in 1811,
from a joint design of Sir Robert Smirke
and Mr. Johnson, having until then stood
within the entrance gate of the Tower.
Its powerful presses and other machinery
are shown only by order of the Deputy
Master of the Mint (Hon. Charles W.
Freemantle), to whom written applications
should be addressed. A new Mint is to
be erected on the Thames Embankment.

1^* The visit to London Docks, described
in the following chapter, should now be paid.
On our return we proceed towards the entrance
to the Tower, but turn off to the right, into
Tower-street, before we reach it.

GREAT TOWER STREET. The church,
Allhallows Barking, is on the right.
Portions of it are early Gothic, the eastern
front and outer walls not earlier than
Richard III. We turn to the right, up

MARK LANE, to the Corn Exchange,
established in 1747, where each corn-
factor has a desk, at which he transacts
business with bakers, millers and farmers.
In Hart-street, a little further on, on the
right, St. Olave's Church, built about 1400,
and recently restored. We continue along
Mark-lane, until we reach

FENCHURCH STREET, and then turn to
the left. Almost opposite to Mark-lane,

the entrance to Ironmongers Hall (built
1748, by Thomas Holden).

Mincing-lane, which branches off from Fen-
church-street on the left, is the principal seat of
the Colonial Trade, which extends principally
to sugar, coffee and tea. In it the Comnurcxir
Sale Rooms.

We continue along Fenchurch-street r
as far as the corner of Gracechurch-
street. The continuation of Fenchurch-
street, in front, is called Lombard-street,
and the street crossing it at right angles,.
Gracechurch-street.

Lombard-street owes its name to the Lombard
money changers, who settled here, and dowiv
to the present day it is one of the head-quarters
of banking business. In White Hart-coitrt,
a short distance from the corner, on the kft,.
died Fox, the first quaker.

By walking up Gracechurch-street towards
the right, we pass Cross Keys-yard, on the left,
which marks the site of a hostelry celebrated
in the days of Queen Elizabeth.

We turn to the left, down Gracechurch-
street, and proceed as far as a Statue oj
William IV. (by Nixon), which marks the
site of the Boar's Head Tavern, rendered
famous by Shakespeare. King William-
street, on the right, leads hence to the
Bank, the street in front of us leads over
London Bridge, and Cannon-street, a wide
thoroughfare, between both, takes us to
St. Paul's Cathedral. We turn down

CANNON STREET. The most remark-

i able building in it is the Station of the

South-eastern Railway Company (E. M.

1 Barry, architect). Nearly opposite to it

j is St. Sivithiifs Church (by Wren), with

a Roman Milliarium, or milestone, under

an iron grating in its outer wall.

Vv T e now return to Charing Cross by means
of an omnibus (" Putney Bridge," white), or by
underground railway (Mansion House Station
close by).

iS8

33.- DOCKS, TUNNEL.

Observe : The London Docks are open from
9 to 4 (ladies not admitted after i). The
Vaults are shown only to persons provided
with a tasting order from a London wine
merchant.

Distance, exclusive of a visit to Rotherhithe
' and to the Docks lower down the river than
the London Docks, 2\ miles.

London Docks to Blackwall, passing through
the principal Docks, say 5 miles (see plan of
London and map of Environs).

We start from the Royal Mint (see
p. 187). Close to us is the gate of the ST.
KATHERINE DOCKS, constructed 1827 to
1828 by a public company, whose engineer
was Mr. Telford, and architect Mr.
Hardwicke.

These Docks cover nearly the whole of an
old parish, and 1,250 houses, including St.
Katheiine's Hospital, since transferred to
Regent's Park, were pulled down to make
room for them. They cover an area of 24
acres, of which u are water, and admit
vessels of 700 tons burden. Their cost was
700,000.

A glance into these Docks suffices. We
then proceed along the street known as
East Smithfield until we reach the gates
of the London Docks. These should be
examined with some leisure.

The LONDON DOCKS are the most
interesting in all London. They cover an
area of 90 acres, of which 34^ are water, a
189

large portion of the remainder being
covered with gigantic warehouses. John
Rennie was the engineer. The largest of
the five basins of which they consist was
opened in 1805. It has an area of 20
acres. <

The celebrated Wine Vaults are on the north
side of this basin. They are the great depot of
the London wine merchants, who here keep
their wines in bond, and hold 60,000 pipes.
The Tobacco Warehouses are at the eastern end
of this basin. They cover an area of 14 acres,
and hold 24,000 hogsheads of tobacco, 1,200
pounds each. In connection with them is a
kiln, where damaged tobacco is burnt, and
which is popularly known as the "Queen's
Tobacco Pipe." The Spirit Warehouses are
on the south side of the basin.

We leave by a gate at the south-eastern
extremity of this basin, and, turning to the
right, reach High-street, Wapping, which
takes us to a round building of forsaken
appearance the entrance to the celebrated
THAMES TUNNEL.

The THAMES TUNNEL connects Wapping
with Rotherhithe, on the right bank of the
Thames, and was constructed 1825-43 by Sir
Isambert Brunei. Two previous attempts to
construct a Tunnel under the Thames (by R.
Dodd in 1798 and in 1805-8) having failed,
Brunei conceived the idea of a teredo-shield,
which was suggested to him by observing ti.e
manner in which the teredo, a testacious
worm, eats its way through the hardest wood
at the bottom of the sea, lining the passage
made by him with a calcarious secretion.
Brunei's shield consisted of 36 cells in which
the miners and bricklayers worked. The
work was begun in February 1825, the shaft in
Rotherhithe was completed in October of the
same year, and the actual work of tunnelling
begun. In 1827 the works were inundated by
the Thames, and again in 1828, after which
they were stopped for a number of years, as
the shareholders were not disposed to invest
any more money in so unpromising an enter-
prise. At length, however, Parliament
advanced a large sum of money, the work was
resumed under the direction of Mr. Page, a-vl
the Tunnel opened on the 25th March, 1843.
It cost 454, 7 1 5.

It consists of two arched passages, 1,200
feet long, 14 feet wide, and 16^ feet high.
Spiral stairs, winding round cylindrical shafts,
50 feet wide and 80 feet deep, lead down to it.
In 1869 the Tunnel was sold to a railway
company for .200,000, and a railway now
190

34.-SOUTH LONDON.

passes through it and thence beneath the
eastern basin of the London Docks to Bishops-
gate-street. This railway connects the rail-
ways on the north of the Thames with those to
the south of it.

.^9* Visitors are no longer permitted
to walk through the Tunnel, but they may
inspect it or ride through it, by taking a
ticket to Rotherhithe. Trains pass at
intervals varying between 45 min. and an
hour. A steam ferry crosses the river at
frequent intervals.

A visit to ROTHERHITHE and SOUTHV/ARK
PARK may be combined with a journey through
the Tunnel. If this is intended, we take a
railway ticket for Deptford-road, which is close
to the Commercial Docks. On leaving the
station we turn to the right and return through
Soitthwark Park to the Thames, and by steam
ferry to the northern entrance of Tunnel.

A visit to the DOCKS, which extend from the
London Docks as far as Blackwall and beyond,
will hardly repay the trouble it involves. If
it is not intended to return to the Tower and
the City, the Tourist may proceed from the
Tunnel to the Shad well Station on the Black-
wall line ; ride to Blackwall, and thence
proceed by steamer to Woolwich or Green-
wich. A branch line of the Blackwall
Railway conveys passengers to North Green-
wich, and a steam ferry, in connection with it, j
to Greenwich. Trains pass every 15 minutes.

These railways facilitate a visit to the princi-
pal Docks. The West India Docks are reached
first. They are the oldest of London, were |
constructed 1800-2, by W. Jessop, and have a |
water area of 90 acres. To the south of them j
in the centre of the so-called Isle of Dogs i
are the Milhvall Docks, as well as numerous '

ship-building yards, including Samuda's, where
several of the largest ironclads have been built.
Close to Blacltivall are the East India Docks
(29 acres), opened in 1806, and the property of
the company who own the West India Docks.
At the Brunswick Tavern, Blackwall, a
capital fish-dinner (white-bait) may be pro-
cured. Bow creek (the lower Lea) enters the
Thames below Blackwall, and separates the
county of Middlesex from that of Essex. At
its mouth, the yard of the Thames Iron Ship-
building Company, beyond it, the Victoria
Docks (area 90 acres), opened in 1856.

After this excursion, we return to the
Thames Tunnel, and describe the road
leading back to the Tower.

Old Gravel-lane takes us from the
Tunnel to St. George's-street. On cross-
ing the bridge separating the eastern and
western basins of the London Docks, we
perceive, on the right, the fine steeple of
St. Paul's, Shadwell (Architect, Walters,
1821). In front, beyond St. George's-
street, the steeple of St. George* s-in -the
EastQoy Hawkesmoor, 1715-29).

St. George's-street takes us back to the
Tower. It possesses no attractions, but
affords some idea of the aspects of
London in its more maritime quarters.

In Princes-square, off this street, the Swedish.
Church, where Swedenborg lies buried ; in
Wellclose-square, a Sailors' Mission Church,
built by C. J. Gibber, in 1696, at the expense
of the King of Denmark. In Wells-street and
Dock-street there are Sailors' Homes and other
Institutions connected with the Merchant
Service.

On reaching Tower Hill, we resume the
route described in chapter 32 (p. 187).

34.-SOUTH LONDON.

distance, from Charing Cross to the Bank,
4 miles, of which if- by omnibus.

Observe. The interior of Lambeth Palace is
shown only by an order to be procured from
the Chaplain of the Archbishop of Canterbury.

In the course of this walk we propose
to take the visitor to some of the principal
sights of South London, and to return
with him over London Bridge to the
City.

We start from Charing Cross, whence
a yellow omnibus takes us over West-
minster Bridge, at the further end of which
we descend.

The view from Westminster Bridge is
one of the finest in London. Looking
backwards we have on the one side the
imposing Houses of Parliament, with the
towers of Westminster Abbey peeping
out behind them ; on the other the long
192

34.-SOUTH LONDON.

stretch of the Thames Embankment, the
roof of Charing Cross Station, the river
front of Somerset House, rising above the
bridges, and in the far distance the fine
dome of St. Paul's Cathedral. On the
other side of the bridge is the new St.
Thomas's Hospital.

On leaving the omnibus we descend the
steps at the side of the Hospital, and
follow the Albert Embankment as far as
Lambeth Palace. This embankment has
a length of 4,270 feet, and cost ,1,009,639.
It was opened in 1869, and affords a fine
view of the Houses of Parliament.

ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL is one of the
most perfect buildings of this kind in the
world, and the latest sanitary improve-
ments have been considered in its con-
struction. It covers a site 1,700 feet in
length and 250 feet deep, upon which
have been erected seven detached build-
ings, connected by arcades or covered
passages. The block next to the bridge
contains the residence of the house
surgeons, the governors' room, &c. ; the
others contain the wards, each of which
is 120 feet in length, 28 feet wide, and 15
feet high. A chapel occupies the centre.
The detached building towards the south
affords accommodation for the Medical
School connected with the Hospital, and
for a very valuable Museum. The Hos-
pital is arranged for about 620 beds, and
enjoys an annual revenue, from private
endowments and subscriptions, of ^40,000.
Mr. H. Curry was the architect.

St. Thomas's Hospital was established by the
City of London in 1552, and installed in an
Almonry originally established by Richard,
Prior of Bermondsey, in 1213. A new build-
ing was erected in 1701-6, in High-street,
Southwark, with the aid of a public subscrip-
tion. This building was sold, in 1862, to the
South-Eastern Railway Company, for ^296,000,
and the Hospital removed to its present site.
The new building cost ^400,000, besides
jloo,oco which was paid for the site.

LAMBETH PALACE is the town resi-
dence of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
The site upon which it stands was acquired
by one of the archbishops in 1189, and a
residence, subsequently much enlarged,
was erected upon it. The present build-
ings date from various epochs. The

1.93

Lollard Tower faces the river (it is recog-
nised by a niche intended for a statue of
St. Thomas), and was built by Archbishop
Chicheley in 1434-45. It derives its
name from the Lollards, who are said to
have been imprisoned in it. This supposed
prison is a small room at the top of the
tower, wainscotted with oak. The " Post
Room," on the ground floor, contains an
ornamental flat ceiling, supported by a
thick post. The Chapel adjoins the
Lollard's Tower on the east, and is the
oldest existing portion of the Palace. It
was erected 1244-70 by Archbishop
Boniface, and is early English, with a crypt,
The oak screen was erected by Archbishop
Laud. The stained windows and the roof
are new. The Hall (visible from the
street), was built by Archbishop Juxon
(1663), in the debased Gothic style of the
period of Charles II. It is 93 feet by 38
feet, and contains a valuable library of
30,000 volumes. The Court of Arches
sits in it occasionally.

A staircase next to the Hall leads to the old
Guard Room, and the Picture Gallery, (with
several good portraits, including one of Luther,
by Holbein ?) and to the residence proper of the
Archbishop. This portion of the palace was
erected from a design by Mr. Blore, and the
windows look out upon a fine park, 1 8 acres in
extent, jealously closed against the public.

The Gate House, of red brick, was built
in 1490, by Cardinal Morton.

Next to it stands St. Mary's Church,
the parish church of Lambeth. It was
built in 1377 (the two aisles in 1505.
the western portion, in 1523).

Tradescent, the collector of curiosities, is
buried in the churchyard, Elias Ashmole, the
antiquary, as well as several archbishops, in
the church itself.

We now proceed along Church-street,
pass under a railway bridge, and imme-
diately afterwards turn to the left, into a
street called Hercules Buildings, which
takes us to Westminster Bridge-road.
Here

CHRIST CHURCH, erected in memory of
Rowland Hill, the eminent preacher, with
a Memorial Tower of President Lincoln.
The church was opened in 1876. Archi-
tect, E. Fowler.

194.

34.-SOUTH LONDON.

We turn to the right, follow Kennington-
road as far as Lambeth-road, and the
latter to the Obelisk. On the road we
see- the following buildings :

BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, a lunatic
Asylum, established in 1547, in an old
Priory of our Lord of Bethlehem. The
present building was completed in 1814,
by James Lewis, and the cupola added
subsequently by Sydney Smirke. It
affords accommodation to 366 lunatics.

The patients are treated in the most humane
manner. They are allowed the use of pianos,
billiard and bagatelle tables, and their comforts
are considered in every respect. This was not
the case formerly, and during the last century,
the insane, fastened up to the walls of their
cells by chains, were exhibited for money.
Many criminal lunatics have been confined here,
amongst others, Peg Nicholson who attempted
to stab George III., (she died in 1828, after a
confinement of 42 years), Oxford, for firing at
the Queen, &c.

ST. GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL, is the most
important Roman Catholic place of wor-
ship in London. It was built 1840-49 by
A. W. Pugin, in the perpendicular style.
The tower has not yet been completed.
It is to attain a height of 320 feet.

On the other side of the street is the
SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND, founded in
1799, the present building erected since
1826. In it indigent blind are educated
and taught a trade. Articles made by
them, such as brushes, mats, baskets, &c.
are sold in a shop, at the corner of the
building. The number of inmates is about
200, the annual income 6,600.

The OBELISK marks one of the centres
of Omnibus traffic. It was erected in 1 77 1
in honour of Brass Crosby, Lord Mayor ?
who resisted an infringement of the
privileges of the City by the House of
Commons.

Near the Obelisk is the Surrey Theatre, and,
behind it, Peabody- square, with several blocks
of working men's dwellings, erected by the
Trustees of the Peabody Fund, (see p. 59).

In Borough-road, about 200 yards from the
Obelisk, are the premises of the British School
Society.

London-road, hardly a quarter of a
mile in length, connects the Obelisk with
the Elephant and Castle, a well known

195

public house, where several omnibus
lines cross -each other.

SPURGEON'S TABERNACLE is within a
hundred yards from this, in Newington Butts.
| It is in the Italian style, with a portico of six
Corinthian columns, and holds a congregation
of 6, 500 persons. A platform or stage takes
the place of the customary pulpit, and the
preacher can be seen and heard from every part
of the building. Mr. W. W. Pocock was the
architect, and its cost (,31,000), was defrayed
by a collection amongst Mr. Spurgeon's
numerous admirers. This popular preacher
continues to draw numerous audiences.

At the Elephant and Castle we mount
one of the numerous omnibuses proceed-
ing to London Bridge (ask to be put
down at the corner of King-street). We
proceed first along Newington Causeway.
A short distance beyond the railway
bridge, on the right, the Surry Sessions
House, and behind it the Gaol in which
Leigh Hunt was confined for two years,
(1812-14) for a libel on the Prince Regent,
published in the Examiner. On the
other side of the street, at the corner of
Borough-road, the high walls of the
Queen's Bench Prison, consolidated in
1843 with the Marshalsea and Fleet
prisons. Debtors, principally, are con
fined in it.

The old prison was burnt down during the
"No Popery" riots, in 1780; and in 1791,
the prisoners rose upon their gaolers.

ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR'S, a fine
church at the corner of Great Dover-st.,
was built in 1734-36.

Opposite to it, Mint-street, where Henry
VIII established a Mint in an Old Palace.
The neighbourhood subsequently became a
place of refuge for fraudulent debtors, and other
disreputable characters, and although this
nuisance has been abated, the street, down to
the present does not enjoy a good reputation.

We now enter Borough High-street,
the main thoroughfare of the borough of
Southwark. At the corner of King-street
stood the old Marshalsea prison, im-
mortalized by Dickens. A little further,
on the right side of the street, stood the
Tabard Inn, mentioned in Chaucer's
Canterbury Tales (the present No. 87
marks its site). Not far from this (No.
73) is the George Inn, an old Inn, with
196

34. SOUTH LONDON.

a court-yard surrounded by galleries,
ami one of the very few of that kind still
remaining in London.

On reaching the corner of St. Thomas-
street, we turn to the right. Old St. Thomas's
Hospital formerly stood on the northern side
of this street, GUY'S HOSPITAL occupies the
opposite side of the street It was founded
in 1721 by Thomas Guy, a bookseller, who
had amassed a large fortune by the sale of
Bibles, and by other less creditable means.
It was built 1720-24 by Dance. In the court a
bronze statue of the founder, by Scheemakers,
in the chapel a marble bust of the same by
Bacon, and the tomb of Sir Astley Cooper,
the celebrated surgeon. The Hospital affords
accommodation for 710 patients, and enjoys
an annual income of 40,000. One of its
chief benefactors was Mr. Hunt of Petersham,
who bequeathed 200,000 to it. A medical
school, with Museum, exists in connection
with the Hospital.

We return to High-street.

On the right an open space in front
of the London Bridge Stations, and on
the left, beyond the railway bridge,

ST. SAVIOUR'S, Southwark, one of the
few old churches in London. It belonged
formerly to the Priory of St. Mary Overy,
and was rebuilt after a fire which took
place in 1213, by Peter de Rupibus,
Bishop of Winchester. The only por-
tions of this old building which still
remain are the Choir, the Lady Chapel
and the northern portion of the transept.
The southern half of the transept, as well
as the tower (much disfigured in the
i ?th century), date from the time of

'97

Richard II. The fine old nave was taken
down and has been rebuilt in the worst
of taste.

Internally, St. Saviour's consists of two
churches, of which only that embracing tran-
| sept and choir should be entered, as the aspect
' of the other is calculated to spoil the temper.
I The fine altar-screen was erected at the
! expense of Bishop Fox (d. 1528). In the
I Lady Chapel a Court for the trial of heretics
used to sit during the persecutions carried on
by Bishop Gardiner, in the reign of Queen
Maiy. There are several monuments in the
church, including one to Gower the poet
(d. 1402). A brother of Shakespeare (d. 1607),
John Fletcher and Massinger, the dramatic
authors, are buried in the church or the
adjoining church-yard.

Instead of returning to High-street
by the steps which lead down to the
church, we walk round the church, and
seek a way through the narrow lanes
near the Thames. Close to where these
are crossed by the railway bridge, stood
the Globe Theatre (built 1593), in which
Shakespeare acted. Having passed
through this bridge we find ourselves in
Park-street, and close to the gate of

BARCLAY AND PERKINS'S BREWERY
(admission on presentation of visiting
card ; gratuity). It covers an area of
1 1 acres, is supplied with water from an
artesian well, 367 feet deep, consumes
daily 600 quarters of malt, and employs
1 80 horses. One of the vats holds 3,500
barrels of beer.

The Brewery was founded by Henry Thrale,
the friend of Dr. Johnson, whose residence
may still be seen in Park-street. It was sold
at Thrale's death to Messrs Barclay, Perkins,
and Co. for 135,000.

Park-street takes us from here into
Southwark-street t and the latter back to
High-street. On our way we notice the
Hop and Malt Exchange, ten stories in
height. A fine gateway and vestibule
lead into the Exchange room, which is
surrounded by three galleries connecting
the various offices. This building was
erected from the plans of A. W. Moore,
and completed in 1867.

We now continue our walk, and cross
London Bridge into the city.
198

35. NORTH-EAST LONDON AND VICTORIA PARK.

LONDON BRIDGE was built 1825-31 by
John Rermie and his two sons. It is 928
feet long and consists of five semi-elliptical
arches, that in the centre having a span
of 152 feet. The bridge is 54 feet wide.
The material employed in its construction
is Scotch Granite, and the Lamp-posts are
cast from cannon taken in the Peninsular
War. It cost ^2,000,000.

Strangers may well linger on this bridge.
It is more crowded with traffic than any other
thoroughfare in London, and the prospects
from it are more varied than can be obtained
anywhere else. Looking down the river we
are struck with the large number of barges,
ocean steamers and other vessels which almost
hide from our sight Billingsgate Market, the
Custom-house, and the Tower. Far less ani-
mated is the aspect of the river above-bridge.
The most striking buildings in this direction are
the Cannon-street railway station and St. Paul's
Cathedral. Numerous steeples of city churches
as well as the Monument, erected in com-
memoration of the Great Fire of 1666, are
visible.

The first bridge over the Thames was built
near this site, in the nth century. It was of
wood, and having become ruinous, it was re-
placed by a stone bridge, in 1176-1209, of
which Peter, the chaplain of St. Mary-Cole,
was the architect. This old bridge had no less
than 20 arches, on an average no more than
1 1 feet wide. A small chapel dedicated to St.
Thomas occupied the centre, a fortified gate
occupied its southern extremity, and in course
of time a regular row of houses arose upon it.
One of the most remarkable of these was known
as Nonsuch Plouse. It had been brought over

j from Holland in pieces (in 1577), and fastened
i together with wooden pegs. These houses
j were removed in 1757-66. In 1582, a German,
Peter Moritz, was permitted to construct water-
works under the 5 northern arches, which re-
mained there until 1822. Two years after-
wards the bridge was removed. This en-
dangered the existence of all the bridges which
had been constructed, up to that time, higher
up the river. The narrow arches of the old
bridge had impeded the flow of the tides, and
arrested the floating ice during severe winters,
so that the river above-bridge was occasionally
frozen over.

The first prominent building on the other
side of the bridge is FISHMONGERS' HALL,
erected in the so-called Classical style by

P. Roberts, (1827-33).
i

The interior is deserving a visit (gratuity).

j At the head of the stairs, a statue of Wai worth,

I the Lord Mayor, who slew Wat Tyler. The

j banquetting hall is 78 feet long and 38 feet wide.

j The Company is one of the wealthiest in the

j City. Its earliest charter dates from the year

1364. In its politics it is liberal, and the

liberal ministers, when in power, are annually

invited to a grand banquet.

We now cross Thames-street (the
Tower in the distance, on the right) ; pass
close to the Monument, described (p. 184),
and reach the statue of William IV. r
already known to us from the walk de-
scribed in chapter 32.

Here we mount an Omnibus, which
conveys us through King William-street
to the Mansion House (Bank).

35. NORTH-EAST LONDON AND VICTORIA PARK.

Distance: From the Bank back to the
Bank, 8 miles, the whole of which can be per-
formed by Omnibus or Tram Car, with the
exception of a walk of 2 miles through Victoria
Park. A red omnibus, " South Hackney,
Victoria Park," starts from the Royal Exchange
every six minutes, and conveys the traveller to
the entrance of Victoria Park. It is advisable,
however, to walk the first portion of the route,
and only to take this omnibus after Bishops-
gate has been passed through.

Observe : Saturday is the best clay for this-
walk, particularly the afternoon, when Victoria
Park is crowded.

Starting from the Mansion House, we
turn to the left, and pass through Lom-
bard-street^ thus called from the Lombard
money-changers, who at one time settled
here. Down to the present day, a large
amount of banking business is transacted
in it. At the corner, St. Mary Woolnoth y
200

35.- NORTH-EAST LONDON AND VICTORIA PARK.

built by Hawksmoor, one of Wren's
pupils, in 1716.

Nearly at the further end of the street, on
the right, White Hart Court, with a Quakers'
Meeting-house. In this court died Fox, the
founder of this sect.

On reaching Gracechurch-street, we
turn to the left. Passing up Gracechurch-
street, on the left, All Hallows, one of
Wren's churches, and at the side of it,
Cross Keys Yard, which marks the site of a
tavern, celebrated in the days of Queen
Bess. At the corner of Cornhill, on the
left, St. Peter's Church, also by Wren.

We continue in the same direction, and
enter Bishopsgate-street Within, (that is
within the old City gate called Bishops-
gate). On the left, we pass old London
Tavern, until recently renowned for its
charity and public dinners.

At the corner where Threadneedle-street
enters, St. Martin's Outwich, a church
built by Cockerell, sen., in 1796. Opposite
to it on the right, the Wesleyan Centenary
Hall, and on the left South Sea House.

South Sea House was the property of the
" South Sea Company", with which originated
the famous "South Sea Bubble," in 1720,
which brought ruin upon thousands of families.
It is now occupied by offices.

In Threadneedle-street, but concealed behind
houses, is Merchant Taylors' Hall, the property
of one of the great City Companies. It was
built by Jarman after the great fire. There are
a few interesting portraits. The Company
annually invites to a banquet the Tory Ministry,
wlien in office, in the same manner as the
Fishmongers invite the Liberal Ministers.

We continue along Bishopsgate. On
the right, Crosby Hall, now a Restaurant,
one of the ancient City mansions.

It was built in 1466, by Sir John Crosby,
and in it resided Richard III., when Duke of
Gloucester. Only a portion of this ancient
mansion has come down to our times. A view
of the exterior may be obtained from Crosby-
square (entrance through a narrow passage to
the right of the Restaurant). The interior has
been restored and decorated by the present
proprietor. The old hall has been divided into
two floors, the upper of which (now principal
dining room) has a fine roof, and should be
inspected.

The next turning on the right leads to
ST. HELEN'S CHURCH, Bishopsgate, which
201

belonged to a convent, established in 1216.
The tower was completed in 1669. There
are a few interesting monuments, including
those of Sir John Crosby (d. 1475), and
Sir Thomas Gresham (d. 1579)-

On the other side of the street, Palmer-
ston Buildings.

They occupy the site of Bull Inn, where
Hobson, the Cambridge carrier used to put up.
He used to let his horses to the students, and
always insisted upon their taking the horses
according to a regular turn hence the saying :
liobson's choice, this or none.

Opposite to this building on the right,
a narrow street, which leads to Leather-
seller^ Hall, dating from the time of
Queen Elizabeth.

The next turning on the right, leads to
the small church of St. Ethelburga, very
old, but not otherwise remarkable.

Houndsditch, built on the site of the
ditch of the City, enters Bishopsgate-street
from the right, opposite to St. BotolpWs
Church, built 1725-28 by James Gould.
Here stood the ancient Bishopsgate, the
defence of which was entrusted to the
Hanseatic merchants of the Steel-yard.

A short distance up Houndsditch on the left,
| Clothes' Exchange (formerly known as Rag
I fair).

iggf We now wait for the red omnibus, re-
ferred to above, and ride on it as far as the
gate of Victoria Park, unless it is proposed to
visit Bethnal Green Museum, in which case
the omnibus should be left at the corner of
Cambridge-road.

Or, if time permits we may continue on foot
as far as the corner of Brushfield-street, which
leads to Christ Church, Spital fields, a fine
edifice, by Hawksmoor, and then either return
as we came, or turn to the left, and rejoin the
omnibus route close to Bishopsgate-station.

We pass first through Bishopsgate-
street without, then through Norton Fol-
gate and Shoreditch, which abound in
shops and places of amusement, catering
almost enclusively for the working classes.
Bishopsgate Station is to the right, in a
prominent position.

At St. Leonard's Church, a fine edifice by
Dance, sen. (1740), we turn into Hackney-
road.

35. NORTH-EAST LONDON AND VICTORIA PARK.

COLUMBIA MARKET, a fish-market built
by Baroness Burdett-Courts, with a view
of supplying the population of the East
End with cheap fish, is close by, in one of
the back-streets, on the right.

At the end of Hackney-road, immediately
after having passed through a railway bridge,
we leave the omnibus, if it is intended to visit
'the Bethnal Green Museum, which is within 450
yards, to the right. Otherwise we continue
with the omnibus as far as the entrance to
Victoria Park.

BETHNAL GREEN MUSEUM is a branch
establishment of the South Kensington Museum,
fully described in chap. 41, but cannot com-
pare with it as regards its loan or permanent
collections. In front of it Minton's fine
majolica fountain from the Exhibition of 1862.
There are collections of articles of food,
and of animal and vegetable products,
and Colonel Lane Fox's most valuable
anthropological collection, including stone
implements, weapons and utensils of aU
nations and all periods, besides numerous
articles of art industry.

On leaving the Museum we turn to the right
and proceed through Approach-road to the
Victoria Park.

We resume our omnibus journey, and
soon afterwards reach the entrance to
Victoria Park, where we descend.

VICTORIA PARK was laid out in 1841.
It covers 290 acres, and has proved a
great boon to the labouring population of
the narrow and crowded streets of the
East End. A carriage road divides the
Park into two portions.

We keep near the western boundary of the
Park until we reach the fine entrance gates
leading into Approach-road. We then turn
to the left, skirt the northern side of a fine
sheet of ornamental water (boating and minia-
ture sailing boat races), then turn to the left
again, and cross the Carriage-road, already
referred to. We then proceed towards a fine
Fountain (by Darbishire) presented by Baroness
Burdett-Coutts. Here we inquire for the
ornamental water and the swimming lake, and
having visited these, return to the southern end
of the carriage road, where a tramcar usually
awaits our arrival.

The tram car conveys us through Grove-
road, a suburban street, to Mile End-road,
where we descend, in order to mount
another tram car, travelling in a westerly
direction (towards the right.)
203

These tram cars only proceed as far ns
Aldgate. - If it is desired to reach the Bank
quickly an omnibus should be taken.

We now pass through the line of streets
forming the principal approach to the
City from the east, and known in its
various parts as Mile End-road, White-
chapel-road, and Whitechapel High-street.
This thoroughfare is of considerable
width, but most of the buildings are of a
mean description. We cross Regent's
Canal. Soon afterwards, on the right,
Bancroft's A Imshouses (founded in 1728).
A considerable distance beyond these, on
the same side of the street, is quite a
cluster of almshouses, amongst which the
Trinity Almshouses ', in the centre, are the
most interesting. They were founded
in 1695 by the Corporation of Trinity
House, and are said to have been built
by Sir Christopher Wren. The large
plain brick building on the left is London
Hospital, established in 1740, and afford-
ing accommodation for 640 patients.

Most of the patients treated here are sufferers
from accidents, the number of which is
sufficiently explained by the neighbourhood of
the Docks. The fixed income of this valuable
institution amounts to ,14,000, the necessary
expenditure to ^"35,000.

After some time we pass a new red
brick church, on the left. This is St.
Mary's Matfelon, recently erected on the
site of a church built as recently as 1673.
Matfelon is supposed to be Hebrew, and
to mean a woman with a child.

We now have to the right of us the quarter
known as Spital fields, because it was built
upon the grounds belonging to St. Mary's
Spital, which stood on the east side of
Bishopsgate-street. Many Protestant refugees,
who were driven away from France in con-
sequence of the revocation of the edict of
Nantes settled here, and established the
manufacture of silk in all its branches.
Many of their descendants still live here. The
silk manufacture, however, has declined.

On the other side of the street are
Goodman's fields, thus called after a farmer
who formerly held them. There are numerous
sugar refineries in this part of the town,
employing a large number of German sugar
bakers.

On reaching the corner of Middlesex-
street it mav be advisable to leave the car.
204

36.-HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER, HALL.

This street was known formerly as
Petticoat-lane, and is one of the chief
centres of the Jews of London, who settled
here in the I7th century, when they were
first permitted openly to return to England
after their expulsion in 1291.

In this part of London there still remain
a few old houses. St. Botolph's, at the
corner of Hounsditch, is a fine edifice by
Dance, sen. (1741-44). Close by stood
Aldgate (i.e., the old gate), which was
removed towards the close of the last
century.

In Duke-street, the first street on the right,
the Synagogues of the Portuguese and
German Jews, the former erected in 1656, the
latter in 1790.

On reaching the bifurcation of the
street we keep to the right, and proceed
through Leadenhall-street and Cornhill
to the Bank. On the right, St. Katherine
Cree, a small church in bastard Gothic,
built during the reign of James I., (Inigo
Jones is said to have been the architect,
but this we doubt). Further on, at the
corner of Mary Axe, the church St.
Andrew Undershaft built 1530-40. Stow,
the historian of London, is buried in it.

We crojis Crdcechurch-street and enter
Cornhill. At the corner of the latter, on
the left, St. Peter's Church (by Wren),
and a short distance beyond it, on the
same side of the street, St. Michael,
recently restored by Sir G. Scott, and
one of the finest city churches. The
Gothic Tower is by Wren, the altar-piece
by Straiker (temp. Charles II.), the wood
carvings (by Rogers) and the stained
windows are modern.

The passage to the right of this church leads
to White Lion Court, where Lloyd's Register oj
Shipping is kept by a society whose affairs are
managed by a committee of 8 merchants, 8
shipowners and 8 underwriters, who are elected
in equal proportions by the committees of
Lloyd's subscription rooms (Royal Exchange)
and of the General Shipowners' Society.

We are now close to the Royal Ex-
change.

In Freeman's Court, which no longer
exists, opposite to its eastern extremity, re-
sided De Foe, the author of Robinson Crusoe.

On reaching the Bank and Mansion
House, our walks and rides through Lon-
don are brought to an end.

DESCRIPTIONS OF
IMPORTANT BUILDINGS AND MUSEUMS.

36.-HOUSES OP PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER HALL.

Admission on Saturdays 10 to 4, by tickets
obtained at the Lord Chamberlain's office, on
the spot. The approaches to the centre Hall
are open at all times, as is also the House of
Lords when sitting as a court of appeal.

A Speaker's or Member's ticket admits to
the strangers' gallery in the House of Commons,
and a Peer's to the gallery of the House of
Lords. Strangers are admitted to the gallery
in the order of their arrival, and it is advisable
therefore to come early. The Speaker takes
the chair at 5 o'clock, and the House frequently
sits until 2 o'clock in the morning (a glaring
205

light is kept burning on the clock-tower until
it rises). A Lord Chamberlain's ticket admits
to the House when the Queen opens, prorogues,
or dissolves Parliament.

Edward the Confessor first erected a
Royal Palace upon the site now occupied
by the Houses of Parliament, which was
enlarged by his successors. William
Rufus built the great Hall of Westminster,
and held his Christmas in it in 1099.
A great fire, in 1299, destroyed nearly
the whole of the Palace, including West-

200

38. HOUSES OP PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER HALL.

minster Hall, but Richard II. had it
rebuilt, and to him we are indebted for its
much admired roof. Another destructive
fire took place in 1512, and only the Hall,
and St. Stephen's Chapel, with its crypt
and cloisters, escaped. The Palace after
this was never restored, but a few buildings,
including the celebrated Star Chamber,
were added. Since the reign of Edward
VI. the Commons met in St. Stephen's
Chapel, and the Lords in a neighbouring
apartment. In 1834 the whole of these
buildings, with the exception of West-
minster Hall, and portions of a few others,
were burnt to the ground. Parliament
then appointed a committee to consider
plans for the permanent accommodation
of the Houses of Parliament. This
committee advised that the design of the j
new Houses of Parliament be left open '
to general competition, and that the
style of the building be either Gothic or
Elizabethian. Ninety-three architects
competed, and the plan of Sir Charles
(then Mr.) Barry was adopted. But it
was not carried out altogether according
to the original intentions of the architect.
The building was begun in 1838, and
completed externally in 1868. Magnesian
limestone, from Anston in Yorkshire, was
used for the exterior, Caen stone for
the interior. The great river wall is
of Aberdeen Granite. The building covers
8 acres of land, there are 14 quadrangles
or courts (whose poverty-stricken appear-
ance contrasts unpleasantly with the
richly decorated external fronts), 1,100
rooms of all kinds and sizes, a chapel, and
two miles of corridors. The building is
warmed through steam-pipes, 16 miles
in length, and ventilated most carefully,
pure air being admitted through the
Victoria Tower, and warmed or cooled
before its distribution, whilst the foul
air escapes through the central and other
towers. The cost far exceeds .2,000,000.

THE EXTERIOR. The principal facade
of the building faces the river, and can
be seen only from Westminster bridge or
from the Albert embankment opposite.
It is 940 feet in length, including the two
projecting wings at the extremities. The
\ving on the right contains the residences
of che Speaker of the House of Commons,
207

and of the Serjeant-at-Arms, that on the
left the apartments of the Usher of the
Black Rod and of the Lords' Librarian.
The facade is decorated with the Royal
Arms of England, from William the
Conqueror to the present reign, and with
the figures of angels, bearing shields.

The North Front, towards Westminster
bridge, is of similar design, and is
ornamented with the statues of the Kings,
from the Heptarchy to the Conquest,
and their coats of arms. It terminates
to the west with the

Clock Tower, 40 feet square, and rising
to a height of 316 feet above Trinity
high water mark. Its clock has a dial
23 feet 6 inches in diameter, and was
constructed under the superintendence of
Sir R. Airy, the astronomer royal. The
great bell weighs 14 tons, and was cast
from a design "by Mr. A. Ashpitel, but,
like its predecessor "big Ben" it has been
cracked by its own hammer.

The West Front is at present divided
into two portions by the unsightly law-
courts adjoining Westminster Hall ; but
these will be removed shortly. That
portion of it which faces New Palace
Yard is separated from the street by an
iron railing. It is decorated with the
statues of Kings and Queens. The
principal entrance to Westminster Hall
adjoins the new building.

A gateway leads from here into the Speaker's
Court, another on the right, into the Star
Chamber Court. The latter 'occupies the site of
a notorious court of justice established by Henry
VII. for the trial of prisoners of state, without
the assistance of a jury, but abolished in the
reign of Charles I. The court used to sit in
a room the ceiling of which was ornamented
with Stars hence the name.

We now walk past the courts of justice,
having Westminster Abbey on our right,
and reach

OLD PALACE YARD (with a statue of
Richard Cceur de Lion, by Marocchetti)
which affords the finest view of the
Houses of Parliament. On the extreme
left St. Margaret's Porch, which leads
into St. Stephen's Hall ; the new gable
of Westminster Hall adjoins it ; the
picturesque central tower rises beyond,
208

36. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER HALL.

and a fine facade, differently treated to
the others, extends on the right to the

VICTORIA TOWER, which is 75 feet
square, and 336 feet high to the top of
the pinnacles, and over 400 feet to the
top of the flagstaff. Colossal lions flank
the portal, and the interior of the archway
is decorated with statues of the patron
saints of the three kingdoms, and one
of "the Queen, supported by emblematical
figures of justice and mercy. A second
statue of the Queen as well as statues of
other members of the Royal family, are
placed in niches over the great entrance
and on the south side. The interior of
the tower, above the beautiful groined
stone vault, is fitted up as a fire-proof
archive for the reception of Parliamentary
documents.

illustrating this period of English history.
The door on the right leads through the
Guard Room to the

ROYAL ROBING ROOM, with frescoes
by Dyce, illustrating the Legend of King
Arthur, and fine oak carvings by H. H.
Armstead.

The ROYAL GALLERY adjoins. It is
the largest apartment in the Palace, 1 10
feet in length, 45 feet wide, and 45 feet
high. The niches of the three doors and
of the bay-window contain the statues
of sovereigns during whose reign great
wars were waged (by B. Philip), and a
band of shields emblazoned with the arms
of the Kings of England and Scotland,
runs below the stained windows.

This gallery is to be ornamented with 18
historical frescoes, of which two only have

iyalGa].| 6 j Lords "^ .'" t n

i. Victoria Tower. 2. Norman Porch. 3. Guard Room.
4. Queen's Robing Room. 6. Victoria Hall. 8. Peer's I^obby.
9. Peer's Committee Room. 10. Peer's Corridor. 11. Central
Hill. 12. Waiting Hall. 13. Commons' Corridor. 14. Com-
mons' Lobby. 16. St. Stephens' HalL 17. St. Stephen's
Porch.

a. Chancellors' Court. . Judges' Court, c. St. Stephen's

1. Royal Court e. Peers' Court, f. Peers' Inner

Court, g. Cloister Court, h. Court of Cloisters, i. Star

Oaniber Court, k. Commons' Inner Court 1. Commons'

M. Speaker's Court, n. Clock Tower.

The SOUTH FRONT is similar in design
to the river front, and plentifully orna-
mented with statues of Kings and Queens.
At its further end the Lord Chamberlains
Office, where tickets for viewing the
interior are issued.

THE INTERIOR. We enter through a
narrow door at the side of the Royal
Entrance of the Victoria Tower.

The Royal Staircase, of grey granite,

leads to the NORMAN PORCH, which is

to be decorated with statues of the

Norman Kings, and with fresco paintings

209

been completed. Both are by D. Maclise.
The one represents the apocryphal interview
between Wellington and Bliicher, after the
battle of Waterloo, the other the death of
Nelson. Amongst the 1 6 other frescoes which
it is proposed to place in this apartment
there is not one which refers to the History of
England under Cromwell, nor has Simon de
Montfort been accorded the smallest space in
this vast building.

VICTORIA HALL OR PRINCES CHAMBER,
serves as a kind of ante-room to the
House of Lords, and contains a statue
of the Queen, supported by figures
emblematical of mercy and justice (by
John Gibson.)

The panels on either side of the room con-
tain bas-reliefs in bronze (by W. Theed).
representing important events in the lives of
Queens of England, and over these are placed
the portraits of the Tudor sovereigns of England^
including Henry VIII. and his six wive.-.
' 210

36.-HOTTSES OF PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER HALL.

THE HOUSE OF LORDS is the most
gorgeously decorated room in Europe.
It is 90 feet in length, 45 feet high, and
45 feet wide.

In its centre are the Woolsack, on which
the Lord Chancellor sits, the clerks' table, and
rows of seats (covered with an offensively red
leather) for the Peers. At the furtKer end
is a Bar, at which the Commons appear when
summoned to the House of Lords, and where
counsel stand during judicial investigation ;
above it are the reporters' and the strangers'
galleries. The Royal Throne (designed by
Welby Pugin) stands near the door by which
we entered.

The twelve stained windows contain effigies
of the Kings of England, Scotland and the
United Kingdom, since William the Conqueror,
with their consorts (Henry VIII. however,
being allowed only three wives). The effigies
of the 1 8 Barons who were deputed to obtain
the Magna Charta are placed in niches between
the windows. The fiescoes in the arches over
the throne represent Edward III. conferring
the order of the Garter on the Black Prince
(by C. W. Cope), the Baptism of St. Ethelbert
(by W. Dyce), and Prince Henry acknowledg-
ing the authority of Judge Gascoigne (by
Cope). The frescoes over the strangers'
gallery represent the spirit of justice (by D.
Maclise), the spirit of Religion (by J. C.
Horseley), and the spirit of chivalry (by D.
Maclise).

Magnificent candelabra, of brass (by Hard-
man), occupy the four corneis of the room.

There are an abundance of Royal, Archie-
piscopal and other arms, monograms and
cognizances, as well as small busts of the
Kings in the oak panelling below the gallery.

We pass out beneath the strangers'
gallery and enter the PEERS' LOBBY, a
square apartment, magnificently decorated,
Royal arms again predominate.

The south door, through which we entered,
is of brass, beautifully designed, and weighs a
ton-and-a-half. It is surmounted by the Arms
of the United Kingdom, the other doors
having the Arms of England, Scotland or
Ireland placed above them. The candelabra
in the corners, like most of the brass-work
throughout the building is by Hardman. The
door on the right leads to the Peers' Library,
a magnificent suite of rooms, to which the
public are not admitted.

The door opposite conducts to the
211

PEERS' ROBING ROOM, which is to be
decorated with frescoes illustrating the
development of the Law amongst the
Jews !

These 9 frescoes have been entrusted to
Mr. J. R. Herbert who has, however, com-
pleted as yet only one of them, viz. "Moses
bringing down the Tables of the Law " a fine
work.

We return to the Peers' Lobby, and

turning to the left, ..pass through the

PEERS' CORRIDOR (with small historical

frescoes, exhibiting but little judgment

j in the selection of the subjects) to the

CENTRAL HALL, an octagon, 60 feet in
diameter, covered with a groined stone
roof, 80 feet high.

The four panels over the doorways are to
be filled with glass mosaic pictures of the
four patron saints of the Kingdom (St. George,
St. Andrew, St. David, and St. Patrick), whilst
the niches in the jambs of the archways
contains 24 statues of Kings and Queens.

The four archways, as well as the smaller
doors beneath the windows (concealed behind
carved stone screens) give access to various
parts of the building. That on the the right
(east) leads to the Lower Waiting Hall, and
thence by a beautiful octagon staircase to the
Upper Waiting Hall, adorned with frescoes
illustrating the works of eight of England's
greatest poets (these Waiting Halls are not
open to the public. )

The door in front leads through a
CORRIDOR similarly decorated with
frescoes to that opposite, to the

COMMONS' LOBBY, which is of the same
size as the Peers' Lobby, but far less
gorgeously decorated. The coats of arms
here are those of boroughs.

A door on the left leads from here to the
Court of Cloisters (public not usually admitted),
one of the few remains of the Old Palace,
most carefully restored. The court is sur-
rounded by two floors of cloisters, having
beautifully groined stone roofs. The small
projecting chapel, like the cloisters, dates
from the time of Henry VIII.

We pass through the door in front,
and enter the

HOUSE OF COMMONS, a noble apart-
ment, 75 feet long, 45 f eet wide, and 41
feet high.

212

36. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT AND WESTMINSTER HALL.

The table upon which the mace is deposited
when the house sits, occupies the centre of
the flocr. The speaker's chair is beyond it,
and the Ministerial seats are on the front
bench, to the right of the speaker, the leader
of the opposition occupying the front bench
opposite. The reporters' gallery is above the
speaker's chair, and beyond is a gallery for
ladies, who are concealed behind an ornamental
brass trellis. Behind us is the strangers'
gallery, the front seats in which are reserved
for the Diplomatic Corps. The doors on
either side lead into the division lobbies,
those on the left being for the "Ayes" that
on the right for the " Noes." The house is
lit through the panels of the ceiling. The
front of the members' galleries, on either side,
are adorned with Royal cognizances. The
windows are filled with stained glass, and
the House bears a thorough business aspect.

We now return to the Central Hall, and
turning to the right, enter

ST. STEPHEN'S HALL, 95 feet long,
by 30 wide, and 56 feet in height. It
occupies the site of St. Stephen's Chapel,
destroyed by fire in 1834.

In it have been placed the statues of twelve
statesmen, celebrated for their oratorical
powers. Beginning to the left of the door by
which we entered, these are : Hampden,
Selden (both by J. H. Foley), Sir Robert
Walpole (by J. Bell), Lord Chatham and Pitt
(both by P. McDowell), Grattan (by L.
Carew), Burke (by J. Theed), Fox and Lord
Mansfield (by E. H. Baily), Lord Somers
(by W. C. Marshall), Lord Falkland (by Bell),
and Lord Clarendon (by Marshall.) The
niches at the doorways contain statues of
Kings and Queens, and the bosses of the
vault, as well as the glass in the windows
illustrate events in the life of St. Stephen.

On leaving this Hall we find ourselves
at the head of a staircase which affords a
striking view of

WESTMINSTER HALL, which is 250
feet in length, 68 feet wide, and 42 feet
high. It was built, or rather repaired, in
1 397-99- Its chestnut roof was designed
by Master Henry Zenely, and is much
admired. Sir Charles Barry proposed
to raise the roof, and decorate the walls
with frescoes, and to adorn the Hall with
statues of distinguished statesmen, but
his plans have not been carried out, and

only the statues of a few kings, too big
for the niches for which they were
originally intended, have found a place
in it.

The window over the eastern entrance
is old, and one of the earliest specimens
of the perpendicular style. But the
dormer windows and the iron lantern
were added in the reign of George IV.,
when the loof likewise was repaired
with oak.

Westminster Hall has been the scene of
many events of historical interest. The very
first act performed in it has been the deposition
of the king who built it (Richard II.) in 1299.
Parliament has frequently met in it, and the
Law Courts of England were permanently
established here, as early as 1224, before the
present hall was built, and they still occupy a
series of apartments to the west of it. The
coronation dinners were given down to George
IV., and on these ocasions the king's champion
rode into the Hall and threw down the
gauntlet, challenging any who should contest
the king's right to the throne. Oliver Cromwell
was installed here Lord Protector, and four
years later his head was set on a pole, at the
top of the hall, fronting New Palace Yard.
Numerous trials have been held here, and
amongst those condemned to the scaffold were
Sir William Wallace, Sir Thomas More and
the Protector Somerset, the Earl and Countess
of Somerset (for the murder of Sir Thomas
Overbury), the great Earl of Stafford, King
Charles I., the rebel Lords Kilmarnock,
Balmerino and Lovat. Warren Hastings was
tried here, and acquitted, as was also Lord
Melville, in 1806.

State ceremonies and trials no longer take
place in this Hall, and it now serves only as
a noble lobby to the Courts of Law and the
Houses of Parliament.

A small door near the flight of stairs of
Westminister Abbey admits to

ST. STEPHEN'S CRYPT, built 1290-1345,
and recently restored in the most gorgeous
style, by Mr. Edward M. Barry, the son
of Sir Charles. It is 90 ft. long by 28 ft.
wide and 20 ft. high, and its elaborate
groins are supported by clusters of Purbeck
marble columns. Gold and colours have
been freely used in its decoration, and the
windows are filled with stained glass.

On leaving this chapel we again find
ourselves in Old Palace Yard.

214

37. WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Admission to Abbey and Chapter House, on
all week-days from 9 to 3 in winter, and from
9 to 5 or 6 in summer. A choral service daily
from 10 to II a.m., and from 3 to 4 p.m.

Sixpence is charged for admission to the
chapels except on Mondays, between II and
2.30 when they also are free.

Summerley's (Henry Cole's) Illustrated
Handbook, which is sold at the entrance to
Abbey, can be recommended to visitors.

The famous Westminster occupies a
site which formed at one time an island
of the Thames. Sebert, King of Essex
and Middlesex, after his conversion to
Christianity, built here the first church,
in 610. This, no doubt, was a building
of modest dimensions, served by a few
Benedict monks under an abbot, and very
poor. Edward the Confessor, who had
obtained dispensation from making a
pilgrimage to Rome on condition of his
building or endowing a monastery
dedicated to St. Peter, took down the old
church, and erected a more stately pile in
its stead, which was solemnly dedicated in
1065. Of this edifice only a few remains
exist at the present date, the most import-
ant being the Fix Office, a low vaulted
apartment, adjoining the south-east corner
of the cloisters, for in 1220 Henry III. took
it into his head to rebuild the Confessor's
Church. He first built the lady's chapel,
since replaced by that of Henry the
Seventh's, and subsequently the choir and
transept. His church was opened in 1 269.
The completion of the building was pro-
tracted into the i6th century, but fortu-
nately succeeding architects deviated from
the original plans only in matters of detail,
and the unity of the original design has thus
been preserved. The western towers were
completed by Wren, and the restorations of
more recent times are not always in good
taste. The Abbey is now however being
restored under the able superintendence
of Sir G. Scott.

Dimensions : Extreme length of interior
511 feet 6in., of exterior 530 feet, or, excluding
Henry VII. 's chapel, 416 feet. Nave, length
116 feet, breadth 34 feet, height 102 feet.
Choir, length 156 feet, breadth and height same
as Nave. Transepts, length of both, including
the Choir, 203 feet. Height of Western Towers
to top of pinnacles, 225 feet. The ruling idea,

215

as regards proportions, was to make the height
of all apertures or vistas thrice their breadth.

EXTERIOR. In our pilgrimage around
the Abbey, we begin with the North
Transept, which forms part of Henry Ill's
building, erected 1245-1269 in the so-called
transition style of Gothic. Four orna-
mental buttresses, terminating with octag-
onal pinnacles, divide it into three com-
partments. The central door is known
as " Solomon's Porch," but the numerous
statues which formerly ornamented it,
have disappeared. The great rose win-
dow, 90 feet in circumference, was rebuilt
in 1722, in the style of a window placed
here in the time of Richard II. The
perforated battlement above the second
compartment is one of Wren's unfortunate
inovations.

The outside of the NORTH AISLE, as
far as the small arched doorway, was built
during the reign of Edward I., (1272-1307),
the remainder at a subsequent date. The
difference between the two scarcely strikes
the ordinary observer. The flat copings
on the buttresses were added by Wren,
the pinnacles by Blore.

The Western Front was built in the
reign of Henry VII., in 1483-1509, but the
towers were completed by Sir Christopher
Wren, (1735-36), who introduced several
of his own inventions, in spite of his state-
ment that he would prepare his plans to
agree with the original scheme of the
architect. The base of the southern tower
is hidden by the gable of the Jerusalem
Chamber, built about 1386.

We now turn to the right, and passing through
a gateway opposite to the Crimean Monument,
enter Dean's Yard. Then, turning to the left,
we reach the cloisters.

The Cloisters were built at various
times (the North Cloister, 1245-69, the
East cloister, 1350-64, the south and west
cloisters, 1386), and have recently been
restored with care. They afford several
of the finest views of the old Abbey, and
their seclusion contrasts strangely with
the life in the streets.

In the North Cloister, a richly orna-
mented doorway, which leads to CHAPTER
HOUSE, a fine octagon, the roof of which
is supported by an elegant central pier^
216

37.-WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

It was built by Henry III., in 1250, and
has been carefully restored by Sir G. Scott.
The House of Commons sat in it from
1377 until the reign of Edward VI., when
they moved to the Palace opposite, and
the Chapter House was converted into a
repository for public records.

There are several mural decorations, includ-
ing a representation of Christ surrounded by
the Christian virtues, which dates back to the
I4th century.

On leaving the Chapter House, we turn
to the left. We pass the Chamber of the
Pi.\; which is a portion of Edward the
Confessor's buildings. It formerly con-
tained the King's treasure, and now con-
tains the standards used at the Trial of
the Fix, that is an assay of the coinage,
which the Goldsmiths' Company have a
right to demand once in every reign.

The dark cloisters, which likewise formed
part of the confessor's buildings, lead into
Little Dean's Yard or Westminster School.
A passage about midway conducts from
these dark cloisters to the Little Cloisters,
where stood the Chapel of St. Katherine,
built about 1300, and taken down in 1571.
In this chapel took place a disgraceful
fracas between the Archbishops of York
and Canterbury, when each of these
prelates insisted upon sitting on the right
hand of the Pope's Legate.

We now return to the Dean's Yard, pass
through the gateway in its south-eastern corner,
and, turning through the left, proceed to the
eastern end of the Abbey.

On our route, fine glimpses of the
Abbey, and of the Houses of Parliament.
Henry the Sevenths Chapel was built
1502-20, in the decorated or florid pointed
style of architecture. A passage to the
east (left), leads past the sepulchral
chapels of Henry the Third's structure, to
the Chapter House. Close by is a small
door which leads into the Abbey.

If you enter this door you find yourself in
that portion of the Abbey known as the Poets'
Corner.

Return, and pass by the north side of the
Abbey, and enter through the western
Portal.

THE INTERIOR. The visitor now finds
himself in the NAVE, rising to a height of
102 feet, which is two feet higher than that
217

of York Minster. Circular columns sepa-
rate the nave from the two aisles, and
support elegant pointed arches. Above
these is an elegant triforium, one of the
glories of the Abbey, and higher still a
clerestory. A blank arcade, which once
continued round the whole of the interior
has been removed, a few fragments ex-
cepted, to make room for monuments.

Turning back, we perceive the great
circular-window over the western entrance,
filled with stained glass representing the
Patriarchs, painted in 1735. Stepping
under the southern aisle, we obtain a view
of an old glass painting, (date uncertain),
said to represent Richard II. A similar
window, in the northern tower is seen from
the northern aisle. It is said to represent
Edward the Confessor. In this aisle,
there are likewise three modern Memorial
windows, while six windows of the cleres-
tory, contain portraits of twelve prophets,
also modern.

In the nave are inscribed stones or brasses
over the graves of Dr. Hunter, R. Stephenson,
Sir Charles Barry, David Livingstone, Lord
Clyde, Sir Charles Lyall and Sir Sterndale
Bennett.

The screen of the Choir, in the perpen-
dicular style, is by Blore (1848). We pass
by its side, and take up our position in the
centre of the Choir, or cross of the tran-
septs, beneath the unfinished central tower,
whence one of the best views of the Abbey
is obtained.

The eight windows in the lantern or central
Tower represent angels. The great rose-
window, in the north transept, was painted in
1722, and represents the Apostles and Evange-
lists. The six lancet windows of the clerestory
of this transept are enriched with stained glass
in memory of six officers of Sir James Outram's
division, who fell in India 1857-8. They con-
tain typical representations of these officers,
taken from the Old Testament, viz. : Moses,
Joshua, Caleb, Gideon, David and Jonathan.
A seventh window, in the west aisle, is dedi-
cated to General Adrian Hope, and represents
Asa. There is here likewise a window in
memory of the officers and men who perished
on the foundering of the iron-clad " Captain,"
and a window over Chaucer's Monument.

The windows in the South Transept were
painted by T. Ward and J. H. Nixon, in 1847.
The rose-window contains illustrations of 32
218

37.-WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

events in the life of Christ, the subjects for the
twelve lower windows are taken from the Old
Testament.

The three clerestory windows at the east end
of the Choir contain ancient glass representing
Christ and the Virgin ; Edward the Confessor
and St. John the Evangelist ; St. Augustine
and Mellitus, bishop of London. The window
below these is modern, and represents Moses
lifting up the serpent in the wilderness and the
Crucifixion.

The Altar, as well as the richly sculp-
tured Reredos, in alabaster and spar, behind
it, are from designs by Sir Gilbert Scott.
The altar picture is executed in Venetian
glass mosaic.

The mosaic pavement in front of the Altar
was done by Richard de Ware, Abbot of
Westminster, in 1268. It is supposed to repre-
sent the time the world is to last, viz. 19,683
yeais.

On the north side of the Altar are the tombs
of the Countess of Lancaster (1276), of the
Earl of Pembroke (1325), and of Edmund
Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster (1296). These
are amongst the finest monuments in the
Abbey, and consist of recumbent figures
beneath canopies.

On the south side are two Altar tombs, one
of King Sebert, the founder of the Abbey,
the other of Anne of Cleves, the divorced wife
of Henry VIII. (1557), King Sebert's remains
were removed hither in 1308. Traces of oil
painting have been discovered upon his tomb.

f@T Before visiting the chapels we propose
to make a round of the monuments. It is
impossible to name the whole of them within
the narrow limits of this Guide, and we shall
therefore draw attention to those which
are distinguished as works of art, or which
commemorate great men.

We begin at the iron gates in the poets
corner, and passing round the outer
walls, return along the screen of the
choir to our starting point. The figures
on our plan approximately indicate the
position of each monument.

POETS CORNER, thus called, because it
contains the monuments of several of our must
celebrated poets.

J. Dryden (cl. 1700), a fine bust by
Scheemakers (1720.)

Chaucer, the father of English Poetry
(d. 1400), a mutilated tomb with canopy,
erected in 1556. A memorial window above.

2IQ

On the southern wall : Ken Jonson the-
contemporary of Shakespeare (d. 1637), a
medallion by Rysbrack after J. Gibbs. Samuel
Butler, author of Hudibras (d. 1680), a bust.
Beneath is a monument to Edmund Spencer,
author of the "Faerie Queen" (d. 1598) from
lack of bread. John Milton (d. 1674), a
bust by Rysbrack (1737). Beneath, Thomas
Gray, author of an "Elegy in a Country.
Churchyard" (d. 1771), a medallion by jj
Bacon, sen.

Between the columns -.Matthew Prior,
poet and diplomatist (d. 1721), a bust by
Coizevox and figures of Thalia and History,
by Rysbrack.

At the column : Thomas Campbell, author
of the " Pleasures of Hope " a statue by W. C.
Marshall. Robert Southey, poet (d. 1843),
a bust by Weekes. William Shakespeare, a
theatrical statue by Scheemakers after Kent,
unworthy of the man and the place (174)-
In front of this monument are tombs of Dr.
Samuel Johnson, Sir W. Chambers, Garrick,
Sheridan, Campbell and Charles Dickens.

James Thomson, author of the " Seasons "
(d. 1784), a statue by Spang, after Adams.
220

37 WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Xo. 3. Nicholas Rcnue, poet laureate (d.
1718), and his daughter. Two medallions and a
female figure, weeping, by Rysbrack. John
Gay, author of the "Beggar's Opera" (d. 1732),
medallion by Rysbrack, with a rather irreverent
inscription. Over the door : Oliver Goldsmith,
author of the " Vicar of Wakefield " (d, 1774),
medallion by J. Nollekens.

The door leads into St. Blaizcs Chapel, now
used as a vestry, which contains a fresco of
the I4th century

No. 4. John, Dukeof Argyle (d. 1743), one
of the finest works of Roubiliac. The Duke,
dressed as a Roman, lies at the foot of a pyra-
mid. On his right hand Eloquence, on his left
Britannia (Minerva), above History.

On the west wall -.Joseph Addison, editor
of the "Spectator" (d. 1720), a statue by
R. Westmacott (1809). Above, G. F. Handel,
the composer (d. 1759), a theatrical statue by
L. F. Roubiliac. Lord Macaulay (d. 1859),
bust by Burnard. Thackeray, humourist, (d.
1863), bust by Marochetti. William Camden,
the antiquarian (d, 1623), a bust.

David Garrick, the Actor (d. 1779), statue

with medallion of Shakespeare, by H. Webber.

The celebrated John Parr, who lived to the

age of 152 years (d. 1635), * s buried in the

centre of the transept.

SOUTH AISLE OF CHOIR AND NAVE.
No. 7. Marchioness of Annandale (d. 1716),
a sarcophagus by James Gibbs.

No. 8. Admiral Sir Cloitdesley Shovel
(drowned 1707), a recumbent statue by F.
Bird, which much offended Addison's taste.
Above it, Sir Godfrey Kneller, painter (d.
1723), B. bust by Rysbrack.

No, 9. Dr. Watts, the hymn-writer
(d. 1748), bust by Thomas Banks.

No. ii. Major Andre, executed as a spy
by the Americans (1780), a fine Alto-relievo
by Van Gelder, after Adams (1828.) The
heads of Washington and other figures have
been knocked off repeatedly by iconoclasts.
Colonel Townshend, shot whilst reconnoitering
the French lines at Ticoncleroga (1759) ; a
sarcophagus borne by two Indians, by Carter,
after R. Adams.

No. 12. Above : General Hargrave, (d.
-1750), a fine work by Roubiliac, representing
''The Discomfiture of Death by Time, and the
Resurrection of the Just on the day of Judg-
ment " (1759.)

No. 13. General Fleming (d. 1750), a
pyramid with medallion ; at its foot figures of
Minerva and Hercules, with emblems of
Valour, Wisdom and Prudence, by Roubiliac.
221

No. 14. Above the door leading to the
cloisters : General Outram (d. 1863), a bust
and alto-relievo, with figures of Lord Clyde,
Outram, Havelock and other Indian heroes,
by Noble. General Wade (d. 1748), "Time
advancing to destroy the Trophy, is repulsed
by Fame :" by Roubiliac.

No. 15. Katherine Bovey (d. 1727),
sarcophagus and medallion, by J. Gibbs.
W. Buckland, geologist (d, 1856), a bust by
H. Weeks.

No. 16. Bishop Wilcccks (d. 1756), Boys
displaying a Scroll, figures of Hope and Faith,
by H. Cheere. Above it, Admiral Tyrrell
(d. 1766). the so-called "pancake monument,"
byN. Read.

No. 17. Dr. Friend (d. 1728), bust by
Rysbrack. W. Congrevie, dramatist (d. 1 728),
sarcophagus and medallion, by T. Bird, paid
for by the Duchess of Marlborough, to whom
the subject of this monument left ^10,000, dis-
inheriting his poor iclat ions. W. Words-worth,
poet, d. (1850). a fine statue by Thrupp.

In the SOUTHERN TOWER (No. 18). J.
Craggs, a statesman implicated in the South
Sea Bubble, with a lying inscription by Pope ;
a statue by Guelphi. Captain Corneivall,
killed in the sea-fight off Toulon, 1743,
pyramid, with Fame and Britannia at its foot,
by R. Taylor.

Above the WEST DOOR : William Pitt,
statesman (d. 1806), a statue with figures of
History and Anarchy below, by R. Westmacott
(1813).

NORTHERN TOWER (No. 19). H. R. V.
Fox, Lord Holland (d. 1840), the celebrated
leader of the Whigs, colossal bust and figures
of Death, Literature and Art, by Bailey.
Sir James Macintosh, historian and philosopher
(d. 1832), a bust by Theed. Capt. Montague,
killed in the naval battle off Brest (1794),
statue, being crowned by Victory, a fine
work by Flaxman. Charles James Fox,
statesmen (d. 1806), a fine group by R.
Westmacott. The deceased is represented as
falling into the arms of Liberty, with Peace
and a liberated slave at his feet.

NORTHERN AISLE OF NAVE, No. 20.
General Lawrence, the conqueror of Pon di
Cherry and defender of Trichinopoly (d. 1775),
a bust, towards which the genius of the East
India Company is pointing, with Fame at the
foot, by W. Tyler. Above, Captains Hervey
and F. Hutt, killed in the naval action before
Brest (1794), Britannia and Fame at the side
of an urn, by Bacon, jun. (1804). Dr. J.

222

37. WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Woodward (d. 1728), medallion held by a
female figure, by P. Scheemakers.

No. 22. John Hunter, the celebrated anato-
mist (d. 1793), a tablet. General Killigrcii',
killed in the battle of Almanza (1707), a fine
trophy, by J. Bird. (In front of this monu-
ment, rare Ben Jonson is buried, standing up-
right).

No 23. Mrs. Beanfoy (d. 1705), sarco-
phagus with figures, by Grinling Gibbons.
Governor Loten (d. 1 789), a figure of generosity
attended by a Lion, by Thomas Banks (1793).
Mrs. Hill (d. 1631), a kneeling statue.

No. 24. The stained window commemo-
rates Mr. K. Brunei, the engineer. Below it,
Hon. Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the
Exchequer, assassinated within the House of
Commons (1812), a sarcophagus with figures
and bas-relief, by R. Westmacott.

No. 25. The stained window commemo-
rates Mr. Locke. Below it, Admiral Baker
(d. 1716), a rostral column by Bird.

No. 26. A stained window commemorative
of Mr. Stephenson, the engineer.

No. 27. In the window, up high, G. L.
Johnstone (d. 1815), grief over a bier, by Flax-
man.

No. 28. Up high, Sir Geo. Staunton, first
Ambassador to China (1801), the deceased
expounding the law to a native of India, by
Chantrey.

No. 29. W. Croft, organist of the Abbey
(d. 1727), a bust. At the corner, Sir Th. F.
J3iixton, a. popular member of Parliament (d.
1845), fine statue by Thrupp.

In the AISLE OF THE NORTH TRANSEPT
(No. 31), Dr. Boulter, Archbishop of Armagh
(d. 1742), a fine bust, by S. H. Cheere. John
Warren, Bishop of Bangor (d. 1 800), the rock
of faith with figures of Religion and an Angel,
by Westmacott, jun. Over the door, Admiral
Watson, who captured Calcutta and liberated
the English imprisoned in the Black Hole (d.
1757), a fine monument by James Stuart and
Scheemakers To the right of the door, the
Earl of Halifax (d. 1771), a bust with figures of
Truth and Falsehood, by J. Bacon (1782).
Richard Cobden (d. 1865), a bust by O. Wool-
ner. F. Homer, M.P. (d. 1817), statue by
Chantrey. Warren Hastings, first Governor
General of India (d. 1818), bust by Bacon, jun.
Above, Sir Eyre Cootc, victorious commander
against Hyder Ali (d. 1783), an allegorical com-
position, by Thos. Banks. Elizabeth Warren
(d. 1816), a much admired sitting figure, by R.
Westmacott, variously interpreted as '-a Soldier's
Widow," or "Charity."

223

In the NORTH TRANSEPT (No. 32). Lord
Mansfidd, Lord Chief Justice (d. 1793), repre-
sented as sitting on a seat of judgment, with
Justice on his right, and Wisdom on his left,
by Flaxman. Viscount Castlereagh, statesman
(d. 1822), a statue byj. E. Thomas. The
tombstones of Pitt, Castlereagh, Canning,
Fox, Grattan and Wilberforce are close to this
monument.

No. 33. Captains Manners, Bayne and
Blair, mortally wounded in a naval engage-
ment fought in April 1 782 ; a rostral column
with figures of Neptune, Britannia and Fame,
by Nollekens. A slab in front covers the re-
mains of Lord Palmerston (d. 1865).

No. 34. William Pitt, Earl of Chatham
(d. 1778), a statue with figures of Britannia,
Prudence and Fortitude, by Bacon. To the
left of the door, Admiral Sir Charles Wager
(d. 1748), a figure of Fame holding a medallion,
with an infant Hercules below, by Scheemakers.

To the right of the door : Admiral Vernon
(d. 1757), Fame crowning a bust, by Rysbrack.

No - 35- John Holies, Duke of Newcastle
(d. 1711), a sarcophagus with an effigy and
figures of Wisdom and Sincerity, by Bird.
George Canning, statesman (d. 1827), a statue,
by Chantrey.

No. 36. Sir John Malcolm, a statesman,
warrior and man of letters (d. 1833), statue by
Chantrey.

No. 37. Admiral Sir Peter Warren
(d. 1752), Hercules placing the Admiral's bust
upon a pedestal, by Roubiliac.

Close to the pier : Sir Robert Peel(&. 1850),
a statue by Gibson.

We now cross over and walk round the
screen of the choir.

No. 30. Sir Tho. Hesketh (d. 1605), a
sarcophagus with two figures.

No. 29. Dr. Chamberlain (d. 1728), a
sarcophagus, with a figure of Fame, and the
attributes of Physic and Longevity, by
Scheemakers and Delvaux.

No. 28. Against the column, a tablet in
memory of 77. Purcell, the composer (d. 1695),
Sir Tho. Stamford Raffles, first President of
the Zoological Society (d. 1826), a sitting
statue by Chantery. W. Wilberforce, the
great abolitionist (d. 1833), a sitting statue by
Joseph.

Now pass to the end of the screen and
turn round on your left. In a Gothic
recess :

Sir Isaac Newton, the great philosopher
(d. 1726), a recumbent figure, over it a large
224

37. WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

globe and the figures of Astronomy ; a bas-
relief illustrates the various discoveries made
by Newton. Rysbrack, sculptor. On the
other side of the gate, James. Earl Stanhope
(d. 1720), sarcophagus with figures of Pallas
and Cupid, by Rysbrack.

Now turn again to the left and follow
the screen to the iron gates.

No. 9. Thomas Owen, judge (d. 1 598)*
sarcophagus with painted effigy. Above it,
on column, a bust of Pasquale Paoli, President
of the Corsican Republic (d. 1807), by
Flaxman.

No. 8. Sir Thos, Richardson (d. 1634),
brass bust by Huber Le Sueur.

No. 7. William Thynne (d. 1548), a
sarcophagus of Marble and Alabaster, with a
warrior in full armour.

We now cross the south transept, and
proceed to the iron gate, which admits to
the chapels.

THE CHAPELS. The monuments in the
chapels are as n rule of far higher historical
interest than those in the nave and transepts.
It is therefore matter for regret that in
accordance with the rules observed at the
Abbey, visitors are hurried along by a verger,
and are not allowed time to inspect leisurely
a single monument. Usually, however, leave
may be obtained to linger behind, on entering
name and address in a book.

Plans, with the position of the monuments
indicated, are suspended in each chapel and
in the Ambulatory. These can be readily
consulted by visitors.

\Ve confine ourselves to a notice of a few
of the most interesting monuments. The
figures we give agree with those given on the
official plans.

S. BENEDICT'S CHAPEL (Plan C)., is
overlooked from Poets' Corner, and is
dedicated to the founder of the Bene-
dictine order.

I. Atchbishop Langham (d. 1376), sar-
cophagus with recumbent figure. 3. Dr,
Goodman, dean of Westminster, a kneeling
figure by South. 5. Cranpeld, Earl of
Middlesex (d. 1654), recumbent figures on an
Altar in middle chapel.

On our way to the next chapel, we pass
at the back of the monuments of King
Sebert and Richard II. On the right is
the tomb of the four children of Henry
IV. in mosaic (1257).

CHAPEL OF ST. EDMUND, King of
East Anglia. massacred by the Danes in
225

886, and buried at Bury St. Edmunds.
We enter through a venerable oak screen.

In centre of area : 1 6 and 17, Duchess of
Gloucester (d. 1839), and Robert de Waldeby
(d. 1397), two altar tombs, with fine brasses.
On left of entrance (No. I.) John of Etham,
(d. 1334), a recumbent statue in alabaster, on
an Altar tomb. On right of entrance (No. 15)
Earl of Pembroke (d. 1296), a recumbent
figure covered with copper and at one time
beautifully enamelled. To the left (No. 6),
Frances Holies (d. 1622) a statue in Roman
armour, by N. Stone, and beyond it (No. 9)
a sitting alabaster statue of Lady Russel
(i6th century.)

Directly opposite the entrance is the
back of Henry IIL's decorated tomb,
with metal figures of six of his children.
We then pass on to the

CHAPEL OF ST, NICHOLAS, dedicated
to the Bishop of Myra, the patron of
youth. It is separated from the ambula-
tory by a fine stone screen, erected in
Henry IV.'s reign.

In the centre (No. 15) Sir Geo. Villisrs
(d. 1618), and wife ; altar tomb with statues,
by N. Stone. On the opposite wall (No. 8)
Lady Burleigh (d. 1589), and their daughter,
a gorgeous cinque cento monument.

On leaving this chapel, notice Henry
V's Chantry, built 1431, in the perpen-
dicular style, and one of the choicest bits
of architecture in the Abbey.

We then ascend the steps and reach
the porch of Henry VII.'s Chapel. The
gates are of brass.

HENRY VII.'s CHAPEL was built
1503-20, and consists of a nave, with five
chapels at its east end, and two aisles.
It is the most remarkable specimen of the
perpendicular style extant. Its " penden-
tive roof" is a miracle of constructive
skill, and hardly a foot of wall can be dis-
covered that is not wrought into orna-
ment. Bolton, prior of St. Bartholomew's,
is said to have been the architect. The
statues around the walls are praised by
Flaxman for their natural simplicity and
grandeur of character and drapery. The
stalls are elaborately carved. Above
them are suspended the banners of the
Knights of the Bath, whose installation
took place in this chapel until 1812. Of
the painted glass, only that in the east
226

37. WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

window remains, which is said to repre-
sent Henry VII.

The guides first take the visitor into the
southern aisle. The principal monuments
are :

SOUTH AISLE. The second tomb in the
centre of the chapel, is that of Mary Queen
of Scots (d. 1577) a cinque cento tomb with
recumbent effigy by Cornelius. It was erected
by her son James I. Next to it the tomb of a
Countess of Richmond (d. 1509), a recumbent
effigy in bronze, ascribed to Torregiano.

NAVE. The centre of attraction is the
Tomb of Henry VII. and of his Queen,
Elizabeth, in the body of the chapel. Within
an enclosure of brass, stands a tomb of black
marble, upon which repose the effigies of the
King and Queen. The figures were executed
by Torregiano. In the second chapel on the
right, the recumbent effigy of the Duke of
Montpensier (d. 1807) by R. Westmacott.

NORTH NAVE. The first tomb in the
centre is that of Queen Elizabeth, like
that of her rival in the opposite aisle, in
the cinque cento style, by Max. Coult.

ST. PAUL'S CHAPEL. Most of its
monuments are in the cinque cento style,
and several amongst them of superior
excellence.

In the centre, a colossal statue of James
Watt (d. 1819), by F. Chantrey. On the
right (with three banners above it) Lodovick
Robsart, standard-bearer to Henry V. (d. 1431).

Ascending a wooden set of stairs, we
reach

EDWARD THE CONFESSOR'S CHAPEL,
one of the most interesting portions of the
building, but most desolate in appearance,
in consequence of the mischief that has
been wrought upon its ancient monu-
ments.

A screen separates this chapel from the
altar. It dates back probably to the 1 5th
century and illustrates, in relief, the chief
events in the confessor's life. In front of this
screen stand the two coronation chairs. That
on the left was made in 1297 for Edward I.,
and holds the famous Scone stone, brought
hither from Scotland ; the second chair was
made for the consort of William III.

At the eastern end of the chapel is the
famous Chantry of Henry V., the hero of
Agincourt. His tomb is below, and his shield,
helmet and saddle are suspended above it.

The silver head of the king's effigy was stolen
by Henry VHI.

The Shrine of Edward the Confessor stands
in the middle of the chapel. It was completed
in 1269, when the body of the sainted king
was removed to it from its old resting place
near the high altar. The jewels and pearls
which formerly adorned it, have disappeared.

The mosaic pavement of the chapel dates
from the year 1260.

Of the other tombs the following should not
be passed over -.Henry III. (d. 1272), the
first on the left, as you come up the stairs,
mosaic and canopy, by W. Torelli. Queen
Eleanor (d. 1290), a fine statue, with canopy,
also by Torelli. Edward III. (d. 1577), on
the opposite side, with a highly decorated
canopy.

CHAPEL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST,
(erroneously called St. Erasmus), is entered
through an enriched canopy, with rebuses
on Abbot I slip's name.

In the area, altar tomb of Thomas Cecil
(d. 1622) and his two wives. The vacant
space on his left was intended for his second
wife, who died in 1663, but she refused to have
her effigy placed there.

ABBOT I SLIP'S CHAPEL, an elegant
structure, with puns sculptured on several
parts, bearing reference to the name of its
builder.

On our way to the next chapel, we pass
a statue of General Wolfe, who fell at the
siege of Quebec, in 1759, by Wilton.

CHAPELS OF ST. JOHN THE EVANGE-
LIST, ST. MICHAEL, AND ST. ANDREW.
The screens which formerly separated
these chapels have been removed.

To the right of the entrance : No. 20. Sir
Francis Vere (d. 1 608), four kneeling knights
bear a marble slab upon which are deposited
the arms of the deceased. This is said to be an
imitation of a similar monument in a church of
Breda, designed by Michel Angelo. On the
right, No. 15, J. G. Nightingale (d. 1752)
and his wife, by Roubiliac. The wife expires
in the arms of her husband, whilst Death is
pointing his dart towards her. Opposite, No.
5, Earl of Monntrath (d. 1771), by Wilton.
On the left (No. 8), Thomas Telfotd, the
engineer (d. 1834), a statue in marble, by
Baily. At the bottom of the chapel, statues
of Mrs. Siddons, as Lady Macbeth, and of her
brother John Kemble, as Cato, the former by
Thomas Campbell, the latter by Flaxman.

227

228

38.-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.

Open on week-clays from 7 45 to dusk.
Divine service at 8, 9.45 and 3.15.

Admission to the body of the church, free ;
to the whispering, stone and golden galleries,
6d. ; to the ball, is. 6cl. ; to the library, great
bell and geometrical staircase, 6d. ; to the
clock, 6d. ; to the crypt, 6d. ; or 35. 2d. in all.

Only the galleries and the crypt are deserving
a visit.

ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL is supposed to
occupy the site of a Roman temple. The
first Christian church is said to have been
built here under Constantine. King
Sebert, the same who founded the West-
minster, is said to have erected a more
magnificent edifice on this spot, but it
was burnt down in 961, and a Gothic edi-
fice was erected in its stead between 1083-
1 229. This too, was swept away by the
great fire of 1666, and Sir Christopher
Wren was then charged with rebuilding
the Cathedral, and he accomplished this
stupendous task between 1675 and 1710.
It is the only Cathedral of England in the
so-called classical style, and the master-
piece of its architect, who in reality
proposed to produce a solemn Protestant
Church, instead of an imitation of a Roman
Catholic one. In this, however, he was
thwarted by his employers, who insisted
upon his reproducing the principal features
of a mediaeval Cathedral A dome, rising
high above all surrounding houses, forms
the principal feature of this church. It is
supported on the eight central arches, and
including the lantern, it rises to a height
of 360 feet from the ground, or 353 from
the floor of the church. The outer roof of
this dome is of wood, covered with lead.
Within this there is a brick cone, support-
ing the lantern, and within this again a
vaulted cupola, with an opening at the top
through which are seen the windows in
the cone.

The west front has a width of 180 feet.
A flight of marble steps leads to a double
portico of coupled columns, the lower
Corinthian columns being 50 feet, the
upper, 40 feet high. In the tympanum
is placed a sculpture representing the
conversion of St. Paul, and above are
statues of St. Paul, St. Peter and St. James
{by F. Bird). The two pyramidal clock
towers rise to a height of 222 feet.
229

The semi-circular porticoes of the tran-
septs are much admired. In the
tympanum of one is a phoenix (by Cibber),
in that of the other are the Royal Arms.

A. Prebendaries' Vestry. B. Dean's Vestry. C. Lord
Mayor's Vestry, D. Staircase to Gallery. E. Morning Chapel.
F. Old Consistory Court. G. Bell Tower. H. Geometrical
Staircase.

The INTERIOR OF THE BUILDING is
now being decorated in accordance with
Wren's original intentions. Simple ratios
prevail between all the leading dimensions.
The central space is 108 feet in clear
width, and twice that height, the nave is
41 by 84 feet ; the aisles, 19 by 38 feet ;
the windows, 12 by 24 feet. Stained glass
has been placed in several of the
windows, most of which comes from
Munich. The mosaic painting in one of
the spandrels of the central area is by A.
Stevens, and represents the prophet
Isaiah. The paintings on the cupola are
by Thornhill, and illustrate the history of
St. Paul. The new organ, over the south
entrance, was built by Messrs. Hill (1853),
and contains 60 stops and 4004 pipes.
The new marble pulpit, near the choir,
was designed by Penrose.
230

38.-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.

An iron railing, by Tijou, a Frenchman,
separates the area from the choir. The
wood-carving in the latter is by Grinling
Gibbons, the pulpit by Wyatt, from a
design by Mylne, and the organ by
Father Bernard Schmidt (1694). It has
32 stops, and 2,123 pipes.

Beneath the brass-plate in the centre of
the area, lie the remains of Lord Nelson.
An inscription over the entrance to the
Choir (si monumentum quasris circum-
spice) has been removed. It referred
to Wren, the architect, who lies in the
vault beneath.

Amongst the seventy MONUMENTS
which have found a place in the Cathedral,
there are 49 dedicated to sailors or soldiers.
Only a few are interesting as works of art.

Beginning our inspection from the north
entrance we first notice a statue of General W.
F. P. Napier (d. 1860), by Adams. To the
right of this, statues of General Ponsonby, killed
at Waterloo, by Theed, and of Admiral Lord
Duncan, by Westmacott . To the left of Choir,
Dr. Samuel Johnson (d. 1785), a statue by
John Bacon. Behind the railing, on left, Lord
Cornwallis (d. 1805), statue with Britannia and
allegorical figures of the Ganges and Begareth,
by C. Rossi ; and opposite to it Lord Nelson,
killed at the Battle of Trafalgar, 1805, by
Flaxman. Close to the Pulpit, the kneeling
figure of Bishop Heber (d. 1826), by Chantrey.
At the side of it, a statue of John Howard, the
philanthropist (d. 1790), by Bacon. In the
south-eastern corner of Transept, Admiral Earl
Howe, by Flaxman, and adjoining it, Admiral
Lord Collingwood, Nelson's companion, by
Westmacott, representing the landing of the
Admiral's remains in England.

Near the South entrance, a statue of^. M.
W. Turner, the great painter, by McDowell.
Opposite to it a statue of Lord HeatJifield, the
heroic defender of Gibraltar, in 1 782, by Rossi.
On the other side of the entrance, a statue of
Sir Astley Cooper, the surgeon, by Bailey ; and
opposite to it, against the pier, a statue of
General Moore, who fell at Corunna, in 1809,
by Bacon, jun. In the corner, below the win-
dow, monument of Sir Ralph Abercromby, by
Westmacott. Close to the corner, statue of
Sir William Jones, the oriental scholar, by
Bacon.

The corresponding corner on the other side
of the nave is occupied by a statue of Sir Joshua
Reynolds, the painter (d. 1792), by Flaxman.
In the comer, Admiral Rodney (1702), a statue,

231

by Rossi ; and on the pier opposite, the Earl
of St. Vincent (d. 1823), a statue, by Bailey.

A monument of the Duke of Wellington, by
the late Alfred Stevens, is now being placed in
the Old Consistory Court. (Plan F.)

THE CRYPT should be visited next
(entrance to right of choir), admission 6d.
In it are buried Sir Joshua Reynolds,
James Barry, J. Opie, Sir Thos. Law-
rence ; H. Fuseli and J. M. W. Turner,
painters ; John Rennie and Robert Mylne,
engineers ; Sir Christopher Wren, Nelson,
and Wellington.

Nelson's sarcophagus stands beneath the
cupola, and was originally intended for Henry
VIII., or Cardinal Wolsey. The enclosed
coffin is made of the mast of the ship 1'Orient.

The Duke of Wellington's sarcophagus oc-
cupies a separate compartment. It was chiselled
from a single block of Cornish granite, and
weighs 17 tons. The Funeral Car is likewise
preserved here. The Duke died I4th Septem-
ber, 1852.

The ASCENT. 260 steps take us to the
whispering gallery ; 560 to the upper
gallery ; and 616 to the ball. We enter
by the door marked D on our plan.

About half-way up to the whispering
gallery, a door on the right leads to the
Library, the floor of which is inlaid with
oak. We then proceed to inspect the
Great Bell, which weighs 1 1,474 Ibs., an< i
upon which the hours are struck by a
hammer weighing 145 Ibs. This bell is
tolled on the death of a member of the
Royal family, of the Lord Mayor, the
Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of
London, or the Dean of St. Paul's.

A narrow staircase leads from here to
the Clock, constructed by L. Bradley, in
1708. On our return we should endeavour
to obtain admission to the old Model
Room, from which the whole cathedral
may be overlooked (it is generally locked)
and pay some attention to the so-called
Geometrical Stairs (Plan H), the first of
the kind built in England.

We then continue the ascent to the
Whispering Gallery, which runs round
the base of the cupola, and is thus called
because a whisper addressed to the wall
on one side is distinctly heard at the
opposite end.

232

39. THE TOWER OF LONDON.

From here James Thornhill's Paintings
should be examined. They illustrate events in
the Life of St. Paul.

The Stone Gallery, 222 feet above the
pavement, is reached next ; and wooden
stairs, between the dome and the cone
referred to, lead thence to the Golden
Gallery, 279 feet above the pave"nent,

from which one of the finest views of
London may be enjoyed.

From here we may ascend to the BALL,
which weighs 5,600 Ibs., and is sur-
mounted by a cross, 1 5 feet high, weigh-
ing 3,360 Ibs. The interior of the ball
will hold 12 persons, but a visit to it
is not a thin? which we can recommend.

39. THE TOWER OF LONDON.

Admission daily, 10 to 4, on payment of 6d.
for the armoury, and of 6d. for th crown
jewels. Warders dressed in the costume of the
time of Henry VIII. accompany each party of
visitors. This body of men is known as " beef-
eaters,'' a corruption of buffetiers.

lgg The sixpenny "guide" sold at the
entrance, is beautifully illustrated.

a. Middle Tower, b. By ward Tower, c. Bell Tower, d.
Governor's House. e. Traitor's Gate. f. Bloody Tower,
fj. Record Tower, h. White Tower and Armoury, i. Barracks.
k. St. Peters in Vincula. 1. Iron Gate, m Salt Tower, n.
Broad Arrow Tower, o. Constable Tower, p. Martin Tower
and Brass Mound, q. Brick Tower, r. Bowyer Tower, s.
Flint Tower, t. Devereux Tower and Legge Mound, u.
Beauchamp Tower.

The Tower of London is one of the
most interesting relics of a past age, and
a visitor at all acquainted with its history
as a fortress, a prison and a palace, will
hardly leave it without feelings of pity,
indignation and contempt, having been
aroused within him. The most ancient
portion of this fortress, the so-called
White. Tower, was erected in 1078 by
Bishop Gundulph, of Rochester, for Wil-
liam the Conqueror, and it has undergone
numerous modifications during succeeding
reigns down to the present time. The
old palace was pulled down 1683-88, and
its site is occupied now bv unsightly
store-houses.

233

Having secured tickets at an office,
near which the king's lions and other
beasts were kept formerly, we pass through
the Middle Tower, cross the dry moat by
a bridge, pass through the Byward Tower,
and thus find ourselves in the outer bail
or ward, and facing the high walls of the
inner bail. Right in front, at the corner,
the Bell Tower, which used to be sur-
mounted by the alarm-bell. Bishop
Fisher (executed 1535) was imprisoned in
it. The Governor's House adjoins this.
Guy Fawkes and his confederates impli-
cated in the gunpowder- plot (1605), were
examined in a room on the second-floor
of this building. We pass on to St.
Thomas's Tower, on the right, beneath
which is the Traitor's Gate, through
which prisoners of state were taken into
the Tower, Opposite to this is the
Bloody Tower, with a gateway erected
about 1327, which forms the principal
entrance to the inner bail. It is supposed
to have been the scene of the murder of
Edward IV.'s children. The Record or
Wakefield Tower adjoins it. It is very
ancient. The National Records were
formerly kept in it, and now the Regalia.

We now pass through the gateway, and
proceed to the Horse Armoury, which
adjoins the White Tower on the south,
and was built in 1626. The

HORSE ARMOURY contains an interest-
ing collection of armour, arranged (in
1869) by R. Planche". The principal
feature in this collection consists of a
series of figures, equestrian and on foot,
dressed in armour of various epoch. They

234

39.-THE TOWER OP LONDON.

are arranged chronologically, the oldest
being next to the door.

Ask the warder to point out the Greek
Armour, found in a tomb at Cumae (in a glass
case, on the right) ; the damascened armour
of Henry VIII, actually worn by that king ;
the suit of armour presented to Henry VIII.
by the Emperor Maximilian, on his marriage
with Katherine of Arragon ; and the English
long bows of yew, which were recovered in
1841 from the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk
in 1545-

In the Eastern Vestibule will be found
a fine trophy of arms, and, at the foot of
the stairs, the helmet and girdle of Tippoo
Sahib.

The Upper Room is divided by columns
into two compartments. In the eastern of
these a military trophy, consisting of
cannons captured at Waterloo, kettle-
drums taken at Blenheim, &c. In the
centre of the room a beautiful Maltese
gun, made in 1773, and taken from a
French man-of-war. The western com-
partment contains oriental arms and
armour.

We now pass through the wall of the
White Tower, and enter QUEEN ELIZA-
BETH'S ARMOURY. At the bottom of the
room an equestrian statue of the Queen,
the dress imitated from an olrd painting.

Observe here the small cell on the
north side of the room, where Sir Walter
Raleigh was imprisoned ; the block on
which Lords Lovat, Kilmarnock, and
Balmerino, were beheaded, with the axe
at the side of it ; a curious shield, fitted
with a small breech-loading gun.

Visitors now return to the Horse
Armoury '/and inspect the armour on its
north side. They then proceed to the
main entrance of the White Tower. On
the road, observe old cannon, including a
breach-loader of the reign of Henry VI.

The WHITE TOWER is the oldest exist-
ing portion of this fortress, and was built
1079-80 by Gundulph, bishop of Rochester.
It is a quadrangular structure, 116 feet
long, 96 feet wide, and 92 feet in height,
with turrets at each angle. The external
walls are 15 feet thick. A circular stair-
case connects its three floors. This Tower
now contains 60,000 stand of arms, but
the most interesting room in it is St.

235

John's Chapel, one of the most perfect
specimens of Norman architecture in
England. The larger room on the upper
floor was used formerly as a room for the
Council presided over by the king.

On leaving the White Tower, we face
the Barracks, erected in 1842, on the site
of an old storehouse destroyed by fire.

We then cross Tower Green, the ancient
place of executions.

Persons executed fare : Anne Boleyn (1536),
Catherine Howard (1541), the Queens of Henry
VIII. The Countess of Salisbury, mother of
Cardinal Pole (1541). Lady Jane Grey (1554).
Devereux, Earl of Essex, favourite of Queen
Elizabeth (1602).

ST. PETER'S IN VINCULA, the chapel of
the liberty of the Tower, is on the right.
It is an insignificant building, dating from
the time of Edward I. (1272), but remark-
able for containing the last ashes of many
who died in the Tower.

There are interred here Anne Boleyn, Cathe-
rine Howard, Sir Thomas More, Thomas
Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Lady Jane Grey,
Dudley Earl of Warwick, Robert Devereux
Earl of Essex.

BEAUCHAMP TOWER, (Plan U), is the
only old prison to which visitors are
admitted. It was built in the beginning
of the 1 3th century, and in it Beauchamp,
Earl of Warwick, was kept a prisoner in
1397. John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and
Earl Arundel, died here as prisoners.
Anne Boleyn was not imprisoned in this
tower, but in the Royal Palace, which
exists no longer.

The REGALIA are kept at present in the
Record Tower (to the left, on leaving
Tower Green).

The collection is surmounted by the crown
of Queen Victoria, and there are three other
crowns as well as a diadem, six sceptres, two
swords of justice, a curtana or sword of mercy,
a baptismal font, the coronation bracelets and
spurs, and an anointing vessel and spoon, a salt
cellar, and other articles.

A walk round the whole of the exterior
of the Tower may prove of interest.
Looking across the Ditch, we obtain a
view of the first and second walls of the
fortress, with the White Tower rising in
the centre. The following Towers can be
seen from the outside (beginning with the
Lion gate ; the figures refer to our plan).
236

40.-THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

u. Beauchamp Tower, already referred to
above.

t. Legge Mound and Devcreitx Tower behind
it. In it Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, was
imprisoned.

s. Flint Toioer. Only foundations remain.
Its dungeons were noted for their narrowness.

r. Bowyer Tcnver, formerly the residence of
the master-provider of the King's bows. In it
the Duke of Clarence is said to have been
drowned in a butt of Malmsey (1474),

q. Brick Torver, the traditional prison of
Lady Jane Grey.

p. Brass Mound and Martin To^ver behind
it. Anne Boleyn's name is inscribed on one o
the walls.

0. Constable Tower, an old prison.

n. Broad Arrow Tcnver, an old prison, which
adjoined the old Royal Palace.

m. Salt Tower, one of the most ancient, with
a zodiac in one of the chambers, ascribed to
Hugh Draper, of Bristol, who was confined
here for magic (1560).

1. Develin Toiver, which defended the iron,
gate, has been rebuilt.

40. THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

Admission, see p. 24.

The Christy Collection, 103, Victoria-street,
Westminster, is open on Fridays only, by cards
issued at the Museum.

The general collection of Insects and Crustacea
is shown only on Tuesdays and Thursdays, if
application be made two days previously. The
Medal Room is shown only on special applica-
tion.

Admission to the Reading Room is granted
only on application.

Catalogues of the collections are sold in the
Hall, and photographs of many of the most
interesting antiquities can be had in the office.

The British Museum originated in an |
Act of Parliament, passed in 1753, which
enacted that the collections of Sir Hans
Sloane, purchased for ,20,000 (though
said to have cost its owner ,50,000) as
well as the Cottonian and Harleian
collections should be vested in certain
Trustees, to be preserved for public use.
Montagu House was purchased by the
Trustees, the requisite funds being raised
by a lottery, and the Museum was opened
in 1719. The collection rapidly increased
in extent and importance, George III.
presented it with Egyptian Antiquities
(1801), Sir Joseph Banks with his botanical
collection, and with a library of 16,000
volumes ; George IV, with a library of
80,000 volumes, formed by his father ;
Mr. T. Grenville -with 80,000 volumes, &c.
Amongst the purchases were the Elgin
Marbles (.35,000), the Townley Marbles
(.28,000), the Blacas collection (,48,000).
237

Since its formation more than ,1,000,000*
have been expended upon purchases,
and several of its departments are the
richest in the world. The annual expenses
amount to ,112,000, including ^20,000
for purchases, and there are over 300
officials. The Museum was visited in
1875 by 523,317 persons, exclusive of
105,000 readers who consulted books in
the library.

Old Montagu House soon proved too
small for the increasing collection, and
the present building took its place in
1823-47. Sir R. Smirke was the architect.
The principal front towards Russell-street
is 370 feet long, and faced with a fine
portico of Ionian columns. In the pedi-
ment is an allegorical sculpture by
Westmacott, representing the Progress-
of Civilisation.

Passing up the stairs we enter a noble
HALL where are marble statues of
Shakespeare (by Roubiliac) and of Sir
Joseph Banks (by Chan trey.)

In front is the entrance to the New
Sculpture Galleries, now building, and to
the READING ROOM, a circular apartment,
covered by a doom 140 feet in diameter
and 106 feet in height, added by Sir
Sydney Smirke in 1855. It is constructed
principally of iron with brick arches.
The shelves within this room hold 80,000
volumes, there is accommodation for 300
readers, and the greatest care has been
bestowed upon ventilation and heating.,
238

40.- THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

This room is used daily by 360 readers,
each of whom consults 13 volumes on
an average.

On passing out from this Reading Room
we turn to the left and enter the

GRENVILLE LIBRARY. It contains the
valuable library presented to the nation,
in 1 847, by the Rt. Honble. Thos. Grenville.
Here, as well as in the Royal Library,
are exhibited a number of books, in glass
cases, illustrative of the progress of the
Art of Printing, as well as specimens of
ornamental and curious binding.

In the Manuscript Saloon are arranged
some of the most curious autographs,
charters and seals, whilst in the Royal
Library will be found specimens from the
Department of prints and drawings.

These specimens are changed from time
to time, and they are only a very small
fraction of the treasures in the Museum.

We now return to the Hall and proceed
up the Great Stairs to the

FIRST FLOOR. Which contains the
Natural History Collections.

The Centre Room, the Southern Zoo-
logical Gallery and the Mammalia Saloon,
contain the collection of Mammalia.

The Botanical Collection will be found in
two rooms, accessible through the Central
Saloon.

The Eastern Zoological Gallery con-
tains 1 66 wall cases of stuffed birds, and
a collection of shells in table cases. The

239

walls, above the cases, are decorated with
horns of deer and rhinoceros, and with
116 portraits, some of them, no doubt of
interest, but almost beyond the reach of
human eyes.

Obsa-ve the remains of the Dodo, the extinct
bird of Mauritius, in case 108.

A Ladies' Cloak Room about half-way, on
the left.

NORTHERN ZOOLOGICAL GALLERY.
Theyfrj/ room contains a collection of the
nests of birds and insects. Observe the
playing avenues of the Australian Bower
birds, the pendulous birds of some of the
Orioles, and the gelatinous nests of the
esculent swallow.

There are also some rare examples of
small mammals.

Second Room. The wall-cases contain
Reptiles and Batrachia, the table cases,
the hard parts of Radiated Animals.

Third Room. It contains the British
Zoological Collection, including the
Capercailzie or Wood Grouse, and the Great
Auk, which have now become extinct.

Fourth Room. It contains exotic bony
fish, and a selection of Annulose animals,
arranged systematically.

Fifth Room: Exotic cartilaginous fish
and sponges.

We now return to the Lobby at the eastern
end of the North Zoological Society, and turn-
ing to the left, enter the

GALLERY OF MINERALS AND FOSSILS,
which occupy six rooms.

Room I. contains principally Fossil
Plants ; Room //, Fossil fishes, arranged
in accordance with the classification pro-
posed by M. Agassiz ; Rooms III and IV
are devoted almost exclusively to Reptilian
remains, but there are also remains of
birds and marsupials. Room V. The
wall-cases contain Mammalian remains ;
a skeleton of the gigantic Irish Deer
occupies the centre of the room ; corals,
occupy some of the table-cases. Room VI
is chiefly occupied by the osseous remains
of Edentata and Pachydermata, such as
the Megatherium, Mastodon and Elephant.
At the end of the room is the fossil
human skeleton brought from Guadeloupe.
In the centre of the room is the skeleton
24-0

40.- THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

of the gigantic Dinornis or wingless bird,
brought from New Zealand.

In addition to these fossils, the first four
rooms contain the Mineral Collection,
arranged in 64 table cases.

Observe the mass of meteoric iron found at
Cranbourne, near Melbourne, in Australia,
which weighs above 3^ tons, in Room I.

We now proceed to the DEPARTMENT
OF ANTIQUITIES. On leaving Room V.
of the Gallery of Fossils, we find ourselves
in the

EGYPTIAN ANTE ROOM, on the walls of
which are placed casts from sculptured
and coloured bas-reliefs in Egypt, painted
in imitation of the originals.

The two EGYPTIAN ROOMS contain
minor Egyptian antiquities, arranged into
three sections, referring to religion, civil
and domestic life, death and' burial.
These articles will repay a most minute
inspection. The second room contains
also the collection of Etruscan, Greek and
Roman Antiquities, presented to the
Museum by Sir R. Temple, as well as the
collection of glass, presented by Mr.
Felix Slade.

The two VASE ROOMS contain a col-
lection of painted Fictile Vases, discovered
in tombs in Italy, Greece, and elsewhere.
A portion of the second of these rooms is
devoted to Greek and Roman terra cottas,
glass and porcelain, and mural paintings,
many of which formed part of the collec-
tion of the Due de Blacas, which was
purchased in 1866.

THE BRON'ZE ROOM contains Greek,
Etruscan and Roman bronzes, the most
valuable of which will be found in the
cases in the centre of the room.

The BRITISH AND MEDIAEVAL ROOM
contains three separate collections, the
principal of which includes antiquities
found in the British Islands, whether an-
terior to the Romans, Roman, or Anglo- ,
Saxon. There are also a small "Early
Christian Collection," and a Mediaeval
Collection, of high value.

The GOLD ORNAMENT ROOM adjoins this
(ring the bell). It contains a most valuable
collection of gems, gold ornaments, the silver
toilet service of a Roman bride ($th century),
and the celebrated Portland vase discovered in
a sepulchral chamber near Road, and now the
241

property of the Duke of Portland. This vase
was smashed to pieces by a madman, in 1845,
but has been skilfully restored.

The ETHEROGRAPHICAL ROOM con-
tains antiquities and modern objects
belonging to non-European races. It is
very crowded, and embraces China and
Japan, Africa, the Pacific, &c.

We now return through the whole of
this series of the rooms, to the staircase,
(lined with Egyptian papyri,) and descend
to the ground floor.

EGYPTIAN VESTIBULE. In it are placed
monuments of the first twelve dynasties of
Egypt. These are the most ancient
sculptures in the Museum.

EGYPTIAN GALLERIES. They include
two galleries, and a central saloon con-
necting them. The antiquities, which
range from at least 2,000 years before
Christ to the year 640 A.D., have been
arranged, as far as practicable, in chrono-
logical order. The larger sculptures in
the Northern Gallery belong to the i8th
dynasty. In the centre a colossal head of
Thothmes III., discovered at Karnak, and
to the left of it the tablet of Abydos, dis-
covered by Bankes in 1818, with an in-
scription of great value in determining the
names and succession of the kings of
various dynasties.

242

40. THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

Lower down several statues of the cat-
headed goddess Pasht (Bubastis), and
two red granite lions, perfect models of
architectonic sculpture. The monuments
in the Central Saloon are of the age of
Rameses II. (Sesostris), whose colossal
head stands on the right. It is from the
building called Memnonium, at Thebes,
and is one of the most valuable objects in
the Museum. The Southern Gallery con-
tains more recent antiquities. In the
sixth compartment the sarcophagus of
King Nectanebo I. (387-369 B.C.) dis-
covered at Alexandria. Near it, in the
area, the celebrated Rosetta Stone, with
inscriptions in hieroglyphics, demotic
characters and in Greek, which furnished
the key to the interpretation of Egyptian
characters. This stone was discovered
in 1799 by a French officer, near the
Rosetta mouth of the Nile, and fell into
the hands of the English when Alexandria
capitulated.

The ASSYRIAN TRANSEPT. On its
eastern side (to the left) are the monu-
ments from the Palace of Sargina, the
founder of the late Assyrian dynasty (747
B.C.), which were obtained by Sir H. C.
Rawlinson and others, from Khorsabad.
In the centre is a figure of Shalmaneser,
found by Mr. Layard on the Tigris, 50
miles below Nimroud. In the western
compartment are placed monuments of
Sardanapalus the Great, the principal
portion of which will be found in the ad-
joining

NIMROUD GALLERY. They were mostly
excavated by Mr. Layard in 1847 and
1850. Sardanapalus the Great is the
earliest Assyrian monarch of whom any
large monuments have been procured.
He reigned about 930 ; 902 B.C.

The ASSYRIAN SIDE-ROOM to the west
of the Nimroud gallery, and the basement
room beneath it, contain the sculptures
obtained by Mr. Rassam and Mr. Loftus.
The sculptures in the latter belong to the
time of Ashurbanipal, the grandson of
Sennacherib, and date from the latest
period of Assyrian Art. We now return
to the Nimroud Gallery, and turning to
the left, pass thence into the

NIMROUD CENTRAL SALOON, in the
centre of which a black marble obelisk,

243

havinga record of the reign of Shalmaneser
inscribed upon it, (850 B.C).

KOUYUNJIK GALLERY. It contains the

j bas-reliefs procured by Mr. Layard, in

i 1849 and 1850, from the Palace of

| Sennacherib, at Kouyunjik, the ancient

Nineveh. That king reigned about 721

B.C.

Return to Central Saloon, and turn to
i right into the

HELLENIC ROOM, which contains.
j marbles from Greece and its Colonies,.
i exclusive of Athens, as well as a few plaster
| casts.

The Phigalian Marbles from the temple
i of Apollo Epicurius, near Phigalia, in
j Arcadia, are the most important objects in

this room. This temple was erected by
J Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon,
| 430 B.C. and the slabs here exhibited
i belonged to a frieze in the interior of the
i temple, and represent a contest between
i Centaurs and Greeks, and an invasion of

Greece by Amazons. Amongst the statues,
j that of a youth should be observed, for it
i is presumed to be a copy of the celebrated
! Diadumenos of Polycletus.

i The ELGIN ROOMS are devoted to the

i sculptures from Athens and Attica, the

I most valuable portion of which was ob-

tained by the Earl of Elgin, the English
! Ambassador at Constantinople, 1801-3, by
i virtue of a firman of the Porte, authorising
i him to remove from Athens, whatever
! monuments he might desire. Of this per-
! mission he made good use, and he sold his
| acquisitions to Government for ,35,000 !

The principal of these sculptures are derived

I from the Parthenon, a temple of the Acropolis

! of Athens, erected during the administration of

; Pericles, about 440 B.C. The architect was

! Ictinu.s, the sculptures were executed from the

i designs of Phidias. The two models in the

centre of the room (by Mr. R. C. Lucas) repre-
i sent the building in its original state, and as it

I appeared in 1687, after a bombardment of
Athens by the Venetians.

On the western wall are 1 8 metopes of this

| temple (15 of them originals), representing
combats between Centaurs and Greeks, and
around the room are arranged slabs from the.
exterior frieze of the cellar. This frieze repre-
sents the Panathenaid Procession, which took
place every four years in honour of Minerva,.
244.

41. THE MUSEUMS IN SOUTH KENSINGTON.

and is one of the most precious examples of
Grecian Art.

In the adjoining room will be found the
statues in the two pediments of the same
Temple. These statues are likewise by
Phidias.

The figures in the Eastern Pediment (west
side of room) represent the birth of Minerva
from the head of Jupiter ; those in the Western
Pediment, the contest of Minerva with Neptune
for the soil of Attica. Observe particularly the
Theseus of the former (No. 93), and the Ilissus
of the latter (No. 99).

The ANTE-ROOM adjoining contains
a canephora, and a figure of Apollo, with
busts, including those of Demosthenes
and Pericles.

The LYCEAN SALOON contains the
remains obtained from ancient cities in
Lycia, by Sir C. Fellows (1842-46). Most
of the sculptures are from the City of
Xanthus.

The GRAECO-ROMAN ROOMS are appro-
j priated to sculptures discovered in Italy,
but belonging to the Greek school of
sculpture. Most of these formed part of
the collection of Mr. Charles Townley,
which was purchased, in 1805, for ^20,000.
Observe, in the small central room, the
Townley Venus, found at Ostia, and a
copy of the celebrated Dioscobolus of
Myron.

The ROMAN GALLERY contains Roman
antiquities discovered in Great Britain,
and a series of Roman portrait sculptures.

41.-THE MUSEUMS IN SOUTH KENSINGTON.

South Kensington Museum. Open daily, loto
4, 5 or 6. On Monday, Tuesday and Satur-
day, 10 to IO. The Exhibition Galleries and
Patent Museum connected with it, daily 10 to
4, 5 or 6.

National Portrait Gallery. Open Monday,
Tuesday and Saturday, 10 to 4, 5 or 6, free.

India Museum. Open Wednesdays and
Thursdays, admission 6d., on other week days,
one penny.

Horticultural Gardens, Admission is. (Not
worth a visit.)

Albert Hall. Admission is.

SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM.

This Museum originated in the Great
International Exhibition of 1851, and is
intended for the promotion of art and
science in their application to industry.
It was first installed in a few rooms of
Marlborough House, but removed, in
1 857, to temporary iron buildings at South
Kensington or Brompton, popularly known
.is the " Brompton Boilers." These tem-
porary buildings have now for the greater
part been replaced by one of a more pre-
tentious nature, designed by Captain
Fowkes, and abounding in terra cotta.

245

The general arrangement of the
Museum, and other institutions concen-
trated at South Kensington, will appear
from the plan annexed.

I. Patent Museum. 2. Naval School. 3. Soutn is.ensington
Museum. 4. Science School. 5. National Portrait Gallery.
6 Schools of Art, Needlework, and of Cookery. 7. Training
School for Music.

The Museum, which has grown into
one of the great institutions of the
country, under the fostering care of Sir
Henry Cole, is the head-quarters of the
Government Department of Science and
246

41. THE MUSEUMS IN SOUTH KENSINGTON.

Art. In connection with it there exist a
School of Science, with branches in the
principal cities of the kingdom ; a Naval
School; a National Art Training School,
with numerous branch establishments ; a
School of Art Needlework; an Educational
Library of 18,000, and an Art Library of
20,000 volumes.

Having entered through the main
entrance in Cromwell-road, we turn to the
right, and first of all visit the

PATENT MUSEUM, which contains
machines and models, including Watt's
first Steam Engine, (1788), the engine of
the first steamer built on the Clyde (1812),
the oldest locomotive built (1813), Ark-
wright's spinning jenny, &c.

type reproductions of celebrated works of
art, and the Royal treasures from Abys-
sinia. The eastern arcades of this court
contain an Oriental Collection, including
lacquered work, enamels, weapons, bronzes,
carvings, and textiles. At its southern end
is a Parisian Boudoir, of the period of
Louis XVI.

SOUTH-EAST COURT. It is divided by
a gallery into an Ecclesiastical and an
Indian Division, and contains mostly full-
size reproductions of architectural works.
The most remarkable of these is the copy
of the Trojan's Column in Rome.
Amongst originals are a Rood Loft of
alabaster and marbles, from the cathedral
of Bois-le-Duc (1623), and four compart-

We then proceed to the principal
entrance of the Museum, turn to the right,
and pass through a temporary corridor to
the

SOUTH COURT, decorated by Godfrey
Sykes. In the Alcoves, on the upper por-
tion of the side-walls, portraits, in mosaic,
of eminent artists. The western half of
this court contains the Loan Collection,
and, adjoining the arcade, the collection
presented to the Museum by the Rev. A.
Dyce, the Shakesperian commentator.
In the eastern side of the court are electro-
247

ments of the wrought-iron screen, from the
Hampton Court Palace Gardens, made by
Huntington Shaw, of Nottingham (1625).

We now return to the South Court, and
proceed to the

NORTH COURT, which is filled chiefly
with Italian sculpture and casts of archi-
tectural and decorative work. The Sing-
ing Gallery or Cantoria from the church
of Santa Maria Novello, in Florence, the
work of Baccio d'Agnolo (1500), and
opposite to it the Chapel or Tribune from
the church of Santa Chiara in the same
248

41. THE MUSEUMS IN SOUTH KENSINGTON.

town (1493). Both these are originals.
So are also the Waterloo Vase of Marble,
12 feet high, by R. Westmacott, the statue
of Cupid by Michael Angelo, and a statuette
of St. Sebastian, by the same artist. The
East Arcade contains Italian chimney
pieces, as well as textile and woven fabrics
of European origin, amongst which the
incomparable Synocope of English em-
broidery, dating back, probably, to the
1 3th century. In the North-Eastern
Cloister, a collection of terra-cotta, plain
and enamelled, and including 50 pieces of
Delia Robbia ware. Under the Western
Arcade are the Art Library, and a curious
collection of musical instruments of all
countries and ages.

The CORRIDOR of the Refreshment
Rooms takes us to the staircase leading
to the ceramic collection on the first floor.

We turn to the left and enter the

WEST CLOISTERS, which contain a col-
lection of old furniture and tapestry. At
its further end is the

EDUCATIONAL COLLECTION. Having
inspected this, we return through the West
Cloisters, and pass straight along through
the

NORTH-EAST CLOISTERS, which con-
tains modern furniture (an inlaid cabinet
by Fourdinois, of Paris, cost ^2,750),
state carriages and sedan-chairs.

The NORTH CLOISTERS are occupied
by objects which circulate amongst the
Provincial Schools of Art. There is here
likewise some fine lace. At the foot of
the stairs will be found the Anglo-Saxon
antiquities discovered near Faversham,
Kent.

FIRST FLOOR.

We now ascend the stairs (the cartoons
or designs for fresco painting in the
Houses of Parliament are by Cope, Dyce,
Horsley, Redgrave and Cave Thomas),
and enter a suite of rooms which was
occupied until recently by paintings now
in the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square.
' Passing through two of these, and then
turning to the right, the visitor finds him-
self in the

CERAMIC GALLERY, which contains the
collection of earthenware, stoneware, and
porcelain. The columns supporting the
249

roof of this gallery are covered with glazed
tiles.

On coming back from this gallery, we
turn to the right, and pass through several
rooms, in which will be found a collection
of Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian, Greek,
Roman, Venetian, German, and other
ancient and modern glass. There are only
a few steps now to the

"T_T^

NORTH CALL. '

NO RT H .

COURT

Sj^Jj

-5 _

r -

~=~

j .

SOUTH 5

COURT

o .

OJ .

ft-

JL .

SOUTH GALL.

-L3d

PRINCE CONSORT'S GALLERY, upon
which will be found some of the most
costly ecclesiastical metre-work and gold-
smith's work in the Museum. It leads to
the gallery of the south court, where a
collection of ornamental iron-work will be
found.

Now back the way we came to the

NORTH GALLERY, where are hung the
celebrated Raphael Cartoons.

They are drawn with chalk upon paper
and coloured in distemper, and are the
original designs for tapestry work for Pope
Leo X. The Tapestry was worked in wool,
silk and gold, at Arras, and placed in the
Sistine Chapel at Rome, in 1519., one year
before Raphael's death. The Cartoons were
purchased by Charles I., on whose death
Cromwell bought themfor ^300. William III.
caused them to be hung in a room at Hampton
Court.

The subjects they illustrate are :

I. Christ's charge to Peter. 2. The death
of Ananias. 3. Peter and John healing the
lame man. 4. Paul and Barnabas at Lystra.
5. Elymas, the sorcerer, struck blind. 6.
Paul preaching at Athens. 7. The miraculous
draught of fishes.

250

41. THE MUSEUMS IN SOUTH KENSINGTON.

A tapestry copy of No. I hangs opposite to
the original design.

The SHEEPSHANKS GALLERY is filled
with the collections of modern English
paintings bequeathed to the Museum by
Mr. J. Sheepshanks, Mr. C. H. Townshend
and Mr. J. Meeson Parsons. There are
altogether about 250 paintings, including
works by Sir E. Landseer, Leslie, Mul-
ready, &c.

Room I. No. 113, Leslie, Uncle Toby and
Widow Wadman. 210. Turner, East Cowes
on the Isle of Wight. 132. Leslie, Sancho
Panza. 226. Wilkie, the Refusal (Duncan
Gray). Several hundred sketches by W.
Mulready.

Room II. No. 145. Mulready, Choosing
the Wedding Gown. 141. First Love, and,
140. Giving a Bite. 222. Tho. Webster.
Village Choir, no. Leslie, the merry wives
of Windsor. 189. C. Stanfield, a market-boat
on the Scheldt. 21. Clint, Listen in the
character of Paul Pry. In the centre of the
room, cases containing Miniatures, &c.

Room III. No. 88. Sir E. Landseer, The
Drovers Departure, and 92, The Twa Dogs.

WATER COLOUR PAINTINGS. The
remaining rooms contain a valuable
collection of water colour paintings, the
gift of Mrs. Ellison, Mr. W. Smith,
and others. They are arranged chrono-
logically, and the leading English water-
colour artists are represented in it. This
room likewise contains the Museum and
Loan collections of ancient and modern
jewellery.

Observe, near north-end of room, the largest
known Pearl (weight 3oz.) the largest Aqua-
marine (set in a sword-hilt) and the famous
* Cellini Vase.

We now return to the principal
entrance, turning to the right, and reach
soon afterwards the

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM,

now being built from the designs of Mr.
Waterhouse. It will be an imposing edi-
fice, and is intended to receive the
Natural History, Minerological and Geo-
logical collections, now in the British
Museum.

Passing up Exhibition-road (see Plan
on p. 246), we pass on the right, the
SCIENCE SCHOOLS, built by General Scott
251

(1871), and faced with terra cotta. Almost
opposite to them are

EXHIBITION GALLERIES,

which may be described as an annexe to
the South Kensington Museum, and con-
tain warlike stores, lent by the War Office,
ships' models, building materials, &c. On
| the upper floor of these galleries is the
I NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY,
! founded by Earl Stanhope, in 1858. It
1 consists of about 500 portraits and busts of
j celebrated or notorious persons, many
i amongst them works of art.

The larger portions of the Exhibition
! galleries is occupied annually by an Inter -
| national Exhibition, to which the admission
I is is.

The entrance to the

INDIA MUSEUM is from Exhibition-
| road, nearer to the Park. It occupies at
present ten rooms overlooking the Horti-
cultural Gardens.

Room I. Contains vegetable products of
India, together with photographs illustrative
of village life in India.

Room II. Illustrates the economic mineral-
ology and geology of India.

Room III. Is occupied by offices.

Rooms IV. & V. Contain a fine Zoological
collection of animal products.

We now ascend the stairs :

Rooms VI. $ VII. Contain the usual
j manufactures of India, such as textile fabrics,
articles of dress, Kashmir shawls, pottery,
brasswork, carvings, &c.

The Prince of Wales's Indian collection
j was exhibited in this Room.

Room VIII. Contains art manufactures of
India, such as ivory carvings, jewellery, choice
weapons, mosaics, &c.

Room IX. Contains a collection of arms,
ethnologically arranged by the Hon. W.
Egerton, and a collection of furniture and
of curiosities.

Room X. Contains Capt. Chapman's and
Shaw's collections from Yarkand and Kashghar,
and Dr. Leitner's collection from Dardistnn
and Bhudhistic sculptures from the Punjab,
whose Greek character is unmistakable.

On descending the stairs observe the Amrarati
sculptures discovered in 1801 by Colonel
Mackenzie, near the banks of the Kistna.

42.-THE NATIONAL GALLERY.

THE ALBERT HALL

Was built 1861-71, on the plan of a Roman
amphitheatre (General H. Y. D. Scott,
architect), its longer diameter being 320,
its shorter 280 feet. The style is Italian
renaissance, and the exterior is faced
throughout with red brick and terra cotta.
The frieze, 800 feet in length, was designed
by Pickersgill, Horsley, Marks, and other
esteemed artists, and executed in mosaic.
The roof of the building was designed and
executed by the Fairbairn Engineering
Company at Manchester. The organ by
Willis, has 9,000 pipes, and its bellows are set
to work by 2 steam engines.

Albert Hall, exclusive of the gallery, holds
5,266 auditors and I,ooo performers. It cost
^"200,000 (the ground, valued at ^"6,000 was
given by the commissioners of the 1851
Exhibition), which was raised by the issue of
shares of ;ioo, ^"500 and ,1,000, which
entitle the holders to one or more reserved
seats for 99 years.

THE NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL
FOR Music is close to the Albert Hall,
and the gardens of the HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY are behind it. They were laid
out in 1 86 1, but are certainly no credit to
the society to which they beloag.

42. THE NATIONAL GALLERY.

' Admission : Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
and Saturday, 10 to 4, 5 or 6, according to
season. Closed from middle of September to
middle of October.

An official catalogue is sold in the Hall.

THE BRITISH NATIONAL GALLERY
OF PICTURES was founded in 1824, by
the purchase of the collection of the late
J. J. Angerstein, which consisted of 38
pictures, and since that time, by a liberal,
and in most instances, judicious expendi-
ture of money, and by numerous donations,
it has grown one of the most extensive
and most select galleries in the world.

It consists at present of about 1020
'paintings, of which 760 are by foreign
masters, and 636 were presented or be-
queathed. Amongst the latter were the
collections of Mr. Vernon (157 pictures) ;
Turner's pictures (104) ; and 93 choice
paintings bequeathed by Mr. Wynn Ellis.

The National Gallery occupies the
northern side of Trafalgar-square, and was
built 1832-8, by W. Wilkens, in a pseudo-
classical style. The new rooms at the
back were added by Mr. E. M. Barry, and
opened in 1876.

VESTIBULE. Statue of David Wilkie (by S .
Josephs), busts of Mulready andThos. Stotharcl
(by Weekes), and a relief by Thos. Banks
(Thetis and the Nymphs).

253

Room I. HavdoiCs May Day, West's Christ
Healing the Sick, and Alai'tids Destruction of
Pompeii, will be found in this room.

Room II, Contains pictures by English
Masters, Wilkie' s John Knox Preaching, and
Peep O'Day Boys, between the doors ; two
fine landscapes by Constable, on north wall ;
Crowe's Mousehold Heath and Chapel Fields,
Norwich, on the west side ; and Turner's
Lake Avernus and Grand Canal ; and Wilkies*
Village Festival, Blind Fiddler and Parish
Beadle, on south wall.

Room III. Contains amongst other fine
pictures, J. Ward's Great Bull; Stansfield's
Entrance to the Zuyder Zee ; Etty's Youth at
the Prow; Leslies' Sancho Panza and the
Duchess, and a duplicate of Uncle Toby ;
Maclisp's Malvolia ; and Mulready's Younger
Brother, Last In, &c.

Room IV. On south wall : E. M. Ward's
Dr. Johnson, South Sea Bubble, James II.
receiving the News of the Landing of the Prince
of Orange ; Herbert's Thomas More and his
Daughter ; Landseer's Dignity and Impudence ;
Good's No News. On the west wall : Frith' s
Derby Day; Landseer's The Maid and the

254

42. THE NATIONAL GALLERY.

Magpie, and otners. On the north wall :
Jlaclisc's Hamlet, and over it a portrait of Mr.
Vernon. On the east wall : Landseer's Shoeing
Smith, and A Dialogue at Waterloo.

Now Lack through Rooms III. and II., to

Room V., which contains Turner's Liber
Studiorum, as well as some of the earlier and
some of the latest pictures of that artist.

Room VI. Contains the finest Turner's
m the gallery, including the Shipwreck, Calais
Pier, Dido and Aeneas, Apuleia in search of
Apuleion, Spithead, the Old Temeraire, and
others.

Room VI L Contains* Hogarth's Marriage
a la Mode, and several large paintings by Sir
y. Reynolds and Gainsborough.

Room VIII, Copley's Death of Major
Pierson, opposite the door; Wright of Derby's
Air Pump.

In Rooms IX. and X., have been hung i6th
century master-pieces.

Room XII. Contains the 93 pictures be-
queathed to the nation by Mr. Wynn Ellis.
They are mostly by Dutch and Flemish Masters.
Cuyp, the two Teniers, D. Van Delen, J. Van
Ostade, Hobbema, Q. Matsys, as well as Greuze
and Canaldto are represented.

This terminates the series of old Rooms.

Room XIII, 96 by 40 feet, contains paintings
of the later Dutch and Flemish School, although
the walls have names of English Painters in-
scribed upon them. Reubens' Peace and War,
Judgment of Paris, Chapeau de Poil, and
Brazen Serpent, are most prominent here.
Observe also Cuyp's Evening Landscape, Rem-
brandt's Jew, and Hobbema' s Avenue.

Room XIV. Contains Dutch and Flemish
pictures of cabinet size, in which the gallery is
very rich.

Room XV. Fifteenth century pictures of the
Italian schools will be found here.

Room XVI. 120 by 40 feet, the largest in
the gallery, contains some of the finest works,
amongst others : Sebastiano del Piombo's Raising
of Lazarus (,3,500). Francia's Virgin and
Christ with Saint. Titian's the Rape of Gany-
mede, Venus and Adonis, The Tribute Money
and others. Paul Veronese's the Family of
Darius at the Feet of Alexander (14,000).
Correggio's Mercury instructing Cupid in the
presence of Venus.

Room XVII. The principal paintings here
are Titian's Bacchus and Ariadne. Michael
Angela's the Entombment. RaphaeVs Vision
of a Knight, Madonna with Infant Christ and
St. John (cost 9,000). Z?t'///;'.yDogeLoredano.
Del Sarto's own portrait, c,

Room XVIII. (Octagon). Rises to a height
of 55 feet, and is ornamented with busts of
Raphael, Reynolds, Turner, Titian, Murillo,
Hogarth, Gainsborough and Michael Angelo.
The bas-reliefs in the vestibule can be seen from
this room. Painting is represented by Raphael
and his pupils ; Sculpture by Phidias before
Pericles; Architecture, by Michael Angelo
offering a Model of St. Peter's to the Pope.
There is also a bust of the Queen (by E. W.
Wyon). Amongst the paintings in this room
Murillo' s Holy Family is the most prominent.

Room XIX. Contains fourteenth century
and older paintings of the Tuscan schools, by
Margharitone, Angelica, F. Lifpi, and others.

Room XX. Likewise contains earlier Italian
paintings, by Franda, Botticelli, and others.

THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON.

43. -WOOLWICH AND GREENWICH.

GREENWICH. Hall and Chapel open on
week days, 10 to 7, in Summer, 10 to 3, in
Winter; on Sundays, after i p.m. Collection
of Naval Models, on week days, Friday
excepted, 10 to 4.

WOOLWICH. Repository, open on week
days, 9 to 5 ; Arsenal, Tuesdays and Thurs-
days. Foreigners require an order, to be
procured through their Ambassador.

ROUTE. Railway from Charing Cross,
Broad-street or Fenchurch-street, for Green-
wich or Woolwich ; steamboat from Westminster
Bridge, Charing Cross, Waterloo, &c., for
Greenwich and Woolwich, every half-hour ; in
about an hour. Tram-car from Westminster
Bridge or Blackfriars, south side.

2 57

We propose to take our readers down
the river to Woolwich ; then to accompany
them over the Common and Blackheath,
to Greenwich, (a walk of six miles), and to
return with them by steamer or railway,
according to the time at their disposal.

LONDON TO WOOLWICH. Immediately
after having passed through London
Bridge, we find ourselves in the Port of
London, the so-called Pool. On the left,
Billingsgate Market, the noble fagade of
the Custom House, and the venerable
Tower. St. Katherine's Docks are imme-
diately below the Tower, and they are
succeeded by the London Docks. An
258

43.-WOOLWICH AND GREENWICH.

insignificant circular building on the left,
marks the entrance to the celebrated
Tunnel. Opposite the church of Rother-
hithe, and beyond it, on the same side, the
Commercial Docks. On the left, we per-
ceive the fine steeple of Limehouse (by
Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren). We now
pass round the Isle of Dogs, upon which
are the West India and Millwall Docks,
as well as numerous ship-building yards.
On the right is Deptford.

The Royal Dockyard at Deptford, was
founded by Henry VIII. Sir Francis Drake
started from it upon his voyage of discovery,
and Peter the Great worked in it as a ship-
wright. This Dockyard was abolished a few
years ago, but there still remain extensive
Victualling Stores of the Navy. Several of the
old sheds have been converted into a Foreign
Cattle -Market, but are not now used as such.

The fine hospital at Greenwich comes
in sight no\Vj backed by a verdant hill,
upon which stands the Observatory. On
the left, Shipbuilding and Engineers'
Yards (including those of Samuda), on the
right, Telegraph Cable and other factories.
We pass the lower entrance to the West
India Docks, and stop at BLACKWALL
(Brunswick Tavern, fish dinners, railway
station close to Pier). The East India
Docks are behind the station ; the river
Lea enters below it. At its mouth, the
works of the Thames Iron Company.
The river widens. On the left may be
perceived the masts of the vessels in the
Victoria Docks. Extensive marshes oc-
cupy both sides of the river. We land at
the Arsenal Pier.

WOOLWICH is celebrated on account of
its Arsenal (an inspection of which will
interest even non-professional visitors).
The Royal Dockyard founded in 1512, was
sold to private ship-builders in 1872.

North Woolwich Gardens, on the other side
of the river, can be reached by steam ferry.
Good Restaurant.

WOOLWICH TO GREENWICH (6 miles,
including Shooter's Hill). Having in-
spected the Arsenal, we proceed to Wool-
wich Common, where there are immense
Artillery Barracks for 4,000 men and
1,000 horses ; the Herbert Hospital for
soldiers ; the Rotunda or Repository ', built
by Nash for George IV., who entertained

259

in it the allied sovereigns, in 181-4, it
contains now an interesting collection of
Arms, models, &c., and the Royal Mili-
tary Academy, established in 1719.

On reaching the highroad leading to
Dover, we turn to the left, and proceed
along it as far as Shooter's Hill (% mile),
which affords one of the finest views in the
neighbourhood of London.

We then turn back, and follow the high-
road as far as Blackheath, and the upper
entrance to Greenwich Park (3 miles),
through which we proceed to Greenwich
Hospital.

GREENWICH ( " Trafalgar " and " Ship
Tavern," in one of which is given the
ministerial whitebait dinner, at the close
of the season.)

Greenwich is noted on account of its
Park, its observatory and its hospital.

GREENWICH PARK was laid out by the
French gardener Le Notre, during the
reign of Charles II. In it the celebrated
Observatory, 180 feet above the Thames.
From the Terrace in front of it a magnifi-
cent prospect, with London in the
distance.

GREENWICH HOSPITAL occupies the
site of an ancient Royal Palace, and was
erected 1667 1752, during the reigns of
Charles II. and William III. The latter
appropriated the buildings as an Asylum
for sailors. The first Greenwich Pensioner
was received in 1705, and about ten years
ago, no less than 2,500 lived in the Hos-
pital, whilst 3,000 more were paid pensions
out of its funds, which are derived, to a
great extent, from the landed estates of
rebels, confiscated in 1715. Since 1874,
there are only out-pensioners, and the old
Hospital has been converted into a Naval
College for the superior education of
officers of the Royal Navy.

The two blocks of buildings near the
river terrace were built by Inigo Jones,
the two other blocks, with domes and
arcades, by Sir Christopher Wren, the
architect of St. Paul's Cathedral. The
building in the background, with the model
of a ship in front of it, is the Royal Naval
School, in which 1200 sons of sailors and
marines are educated at the expense of
Government.

260

44. CRYSTAL PALACE. DTTLWICH AND NORWOOD.

Visitors are shown the Painted Hall,
the Chapel, and a Collection of Naval
Models. The painted Hall is the old
Dining Room of the College. Its ceiling
and walls were painted, 1708-1727, by
James Thornhill. It contains the statues
and portraits of many of England's greatest
naval heroes, the clothes which Nelson

wore during the battle of Trafalgar, the
relics of the Franklin expedition found by
Dr. Rae, &c. The Chapel was decorated
by James Stuart, author of " Antiquities of
Athens." The Altar painting isby West,
the statues of Admirals Keats and Hardy
are by Chantrey and Behnes.

44. CRYSTAL PALACE, DULWICH AND NORWOOD.

Route. \Ve propose to combine a visit to
the Picture Gallery at Dulwich, and the
Cemetery at Norwood, with a visit to the
Crystal Palace. We proceed by Rail to North
Dul-duich Station (from London Bridge or Ken-
sington), walk thence through a charming
coun-try to the Cemetery and the Lower Nor-
iuood Station (about 2 miles), and finally
proceed by rail to the Crystal Palace.

The Crystal Palace can be reached by rail
from Victoria, London Bridge, or Ludgate
Hill. Fare, including admission, 2s. 6d., 2s.,
or is. 6d., Fete days excepted. A Display of
the Fountains or of Fireworks, form special
attractions. The Saturday Concerts are much
appreciated by amateurs.

DULWICH COLLEGE was founded in
1612 by Edward Alleyn, an actor, and
rejoices in an annual revenue of ^16,000,
two-thirds of which is devoted to educa-
tional purposes, and the remainder to
charities. The present school-buildings
were erected in 1866-67 by Charles Barry,
jun., and are in the Gothic style. They
cost ,100,000, and afford accommodation
for 700 boys. Actors derive no benefit
whatever from this foundation.

Before reaching the School buildings,
we pass the Picture Gallery, built by Sir
John Soane, and opened in 1812 (now
re-building.) The pictures have been con-
veyed to Bethnal Green Museum.

It contains a most valuable collection of
paintings, originally intended for Stanislas,
King of Poland, and presented to the College
by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. This presen-
tation was made by advice of Kemble, the actor,
and a collection of paintings, which ought to
have found a place in the National Gallery, is
now placed in a remote suburb, where hardly
any one visits it. There are about 400 pictures,
26l

the Flemish, Spanish and Italian schools, being
particularly well represented.

Observe. In 1st Room : No. I, Gains-
borough, portrait of Mrs. Sheridan. 2nd
Room : No. 131, Hobbema, Landscape, with
Mill; No. 185, Teniers, the Chaff-cutter ; No.
169, Cuyp, Evening Landscape. 3rd Room :
No. 190, A. San Ostrade, Boors' Merry-mak-
ing ; No. 214, Van Dyck, Earl of Pembroke.
4th Room : No. 248, Murillo, the Flower
Girl; No. 283 and 284, Spanish Boys. 5th
Room : No. 339, Guido Reni, St. Sebastian.

NORWOOD CEMETERY covers an area
of 50 acres, and was opened in 1837. It
occupies the slope of a hill, and affords
some of the finest prospects near London.
Many persons of eminence are buried
here, amongst others Douglas Jerrold,
Blanchard, James Bailey the architect,
and many actors.

The CRYSTAL PALACE occupies one of
the finest sites on the hills of Surrey,
affording a magnificent view over a large
part of Kent. Together with the Park, it
occupies an area of 200 acres. It cost
,1,500,000, and the shareholders have
hardly ever received a dividend exceeding
2 per cent. The Palace was erected in
1 ^5 3-54 by Sir Joseph Paxton, who in-
corporated in it nearly the whole of the
International Exhibition Building of 1851.
It consists of a Nave and two transepts.
The total length of the building is 1,392
feet. The central transept is 384 feet long,
1 20 feet wide, and 168 feet high. The Nave
has a width of 72 feet, and a height of 105
feet. The northern transept was destroyed
by fire, in 1866, and has not been restored.

Enteringfromthe Railway Station we first pass
along the Nave, as far as the Handel Orchestra.

262

44. CRYSTAL PALACE, DULWICH AND NORWOOD.

We then make the round of the Courts, which
are intended to illustrate various styles of
architecture. The Egyptian Court^ next to
the Orchestra, on the left, is an imitation of the
Temple of Thebes, and of the Hall of Columns
at Karnak, less than half the original size.

The Greek Court adjoins. It contains a
model of the Parthenon, and masterpieces of
Greek art. The centre area represents an
Agora or Market place, with a hall adjoin-
ing. The Doric columns are imitated from
those of the Temple of Jupiter at Nemea the
frieze is copied from that of the monument of
Thrasyllas at Athens, and the frescoes are
copied from originals discovered at Athens and
at Bassae.

The Roman Court contains models of the
Forum, the Colosseum and the Pantheon. Its
walls are modelled after those of the Colosseum,
and the ceiling of one of the vestibules is painted
as in a Roman Bath.

The Alhambra Court is a representation of
the famous Court of Lions, the Tribune, the
Hall of Justice and the Divan, in the state in
which they existed in 1348. The details of
this model, including the fountains, columns,
arches and decorations, are on the scale of the
original, but the general dimensions are only
half its size.

We now cross the so-called Tropical Depart-
ment from which stairs lead down to the
Aquarium (admission 6d.), well worth in-
spection, though inferior to that at Brighton.
We then resume the inspection of the Courts,
returning to the other end of the Palace.

The Byzantine Court illustrates the develop-
ment'of the Byzantine style of architecture, and
contains imitations from various buildings, its
principal features being part of the cloisters
from St. John Lateran, at Rome.

The Mediaeval Court adjoins, and illustrates
the gothic architecture of England, France,
Germany and Italy.

The Renaissance Court. Its entrance from
the nave is modelled from the fa9ade of the
Hotel Bourgtheroulde, at Rouen, a work of the
1 5th century.

The Elizabethan Vestibule, with architectural
details taken from Holland House (see p. 92)
leads into

The Italian Court, modelled as the Farnese

Palace, at Rome. The work of Michael
Angelo.

We now pass the TJieatre, cross the Central
Transept, leave the Concert Room on the left,
and enter the first of the so-called Industrial
Courts, the contents of which are on sale.
There are on this side a French Court, two
Ceramic Courts and a Bohemian Court. On
reaching the upper end of the Palace we cross
over to the other side, and return to the Handel
Orchestra. Observe the fine screen, designed
by Digby Wyatt, with casts of Thomas's statues
of English Sovereigns and of Cromwell, which,
with the exception of the latter, decorate the
Houses of Parliament.

The Pompeian Court is a representation of a
Roman private house, such as existed at Pom-
peii. The atriiim or reception court is sur-
rounded by sleeping chambers (cubicula). We
then enter the Tablinwn or drawing-room, and
ihePerisfyliutn, with state bed-room (thalamus).
bath-room and dining-room adjoining.

The space between this Court and the
Orchestra is occupied by the Sheffield, Bir-
mingham and Stationery Courts.

We next mount the stairs leading to the
GALLERY, where will be found an exhi-
bition of paintings and photographs, a
model of Shakespeare's House at Strat-
ford-on-Avon, numerous stalls, c.

The PARK next claims our attention.
Its upper portion is in the Italian style,
with numerous fountains, on the left is an
English landscape garden, and in the lower
part of the grounds a lake, with imitations
of antediluvian animals.

The fountains surpass in grandeur every thing
of the same kind to be witnessed elsewhere.
They are supplied with water from an Artesian
well, 576 feet deep, which is pumped up to the
top of two Towers, one of which is opened
to the public. The prospect from it extends
as far as the Nore Light, at the mouth of
the Thames.

At a " Grand Display," no less than 11,788
jets of water are in operation, one rising to a
height of 150 feet, and t\vo to a height of 250
feet each. They consume no less than four
million gallons of water in the course of half-
an-hour.

263

264

45.-HAMPTON COURT, RICHMOND AND KEW.

Hampton Court Palace is open on all week-
clays, Fridays excepted, from 10 to 6, on Sundays
from 2 to 6. Kew Gardens are open on week-
days from I to sunset, on Sundays from 2 to
sunset.

CONVEYANCES. Railway to Kew, Rich-
mond or Hampton Court from Waterloo ; to
Kew and Richmond also from Broad-street,
Moorgate, Luclgate Hill and Mansion House.
Steamers to Kew (in 2 hours), and sometimes
to Richmond and even Hampton Court, every
\ hour from London Bridge or Charing Cross.
A red Omnibus with the name " Hammer-
smith" inscribed upon it starts about every
hour from the Bank, passing Charing Cross
and Piccadilly Circus on its journey. Another
Omnibus (" Richmond," white) starts from
St. Pauls' at intervals of about an hour,
beginning at 8. 1 5 in the morning, for Richmond.

Route. We propose to travel to Hampton
Court by Rail (from Waterloo Station) ; to
inspect the pictures there, and then to walk
through Bushy Park to Kingston, and through
Richmond Park to Richmond, where we dine
(7 miles). After lunch walk from Richmond
to Kew (through the pleasure and Botanical
gardens, 2 miles) and return to London by
steamer. If there are ladies of the party it
may be desirable to engage a carriage at
Hampton Court.

Hotels abound in the places to be visited.
The following can be recommended : King's
Arms at Hampton Court ; Star and Garter
(expensive), and Talbot Arms, in Richmond.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE. On leaving
the railway we cross the Thames, keep to
the left, and soon find ourselves in an
avenue of trees leading to the main
entrance of the Palace. Hampton was
originally the property of the knights of
St. John. Cardinal Wolsey bought it in
1514, and built a magnificent Palace upon
it, from which he was ousted by his royal
lord and master, Henry VIII. Down to
the time of George II. Hampton Court |
was a Royal residence, but is now inhabited
only by Court Pensioners.

We pass through the gateway, and find
ourselves in the Entrance Court. This, as
well as the adjoining Clock Court, date
from the time of Cardinal Wolsey.

In the gateway between these two the
Entrance to the Great Hall, which was probably
completed by Henry VIII. The roof is of
oak, painted. The tapestry, below the gallery
near the entrance, is said to be very old ; that i
265

in the open Hall is ascribed to Bernhard von
Orley, a pupil of Raphael. From the great
Hall we pass into the Presence Chamber, where
there are eight very old pieces of tapestry and
seven cartoons by Carlo Cignani (1628-1719.)

We then return to the Clock Court, (the
astronomical clock was made by Tompion,
1 540), cross it obliquely, in the direction
of an Ionian Colonade (added by Wren).

A staircase (painted by Verrio) leads up to
the STATE APARTMENTS, in which no less
than 1093 paintings, many of them erroneously
ascribed to the great masters, are exhibited.
Visitors pass in succession through the Grand
Chamber, the King's First Presence Chamber
(wood carvings by Grinling Gibbons ; portraits
by Kneller) ; the King's Second Presence-
Chamber ; Audience Chamber Furniture and
Chandelier date from the reign of William III.
(James II. received the Papal Nuncio under
the canopy exhibited here) ; King's Drawing-
room ; King William III.'s bed-room (ceiling
by Verrio, portraits of the beauties of Charles
II. 's court; bed of Queen Charlotte) ; King's
Dressing-room (ceiling by Verrio) ; King's
Writing-closet (curious mirror) ; Queen Mary's
closet; Queen's Gallery (700 feet in length,
with tapestry from designs by Le Brun,
representing events in the life of Alexander
the Great) ; Queen's Bed-room (ceiling by
Thornhill ; bed of Queen Anne) ; Queen's
Drawing-room (ceiling by Verrio, all the
paintings by West); the Queen's Aiidience-
chamber (portrait of Henry VIII. by or after
Hans Holbein) ; Public Dining-room (portrait
by Gainsborough and Sir T. Lawrence) j
Prince of Wales' s Presence-chamber, Drawing
and Bed-room ; then back to the dining-roonij
and to the Queen's Private Chapel, and through
five rooms into the South Gallery^ which was
built by Christopher Wren, and formerly
contained the celebrated cartoons by Raphael,
now at the South Kensington Museum.

We pass through a closet into the
Mantegna Gallery, which contains Man-
tegna's ^Triumph of Julius CaSsar, painted
for the Duke of Mantua, and purchased
by Charles II. The Queen's Staircase
(ceiling by Vick), leads down into the

FOUNTAIN COURT, an addition to the
old Palace, by Wren (1690). A gateway
rather out of proportion to the size of the
building, leads from here into the gardens,
laid out in the reign of William III., by
London and Wise. By turning to the
right we reach the river terrace and the
266

45.- HAMPTON COURT, RICHMOND AND KEW.

private gardens, where the gardener shows
a vine, planted 1768, which sometimes
produces 3000 bunches of grapes in a
season. If we turn to the left we pass the
tennis-court, and through that portion of
the gardens known as the wilderness, and
reach the Lion Gate, opposite to the noble
avenue of chestnut trees in Bushy Park,
a mile in length.

HAMPTON COURT TO RICHMOND.
We walk through this avenue to beyond
the basin, and then bear to the right.
We pass through a small gate opening into
the Kingston-road (to the right). The
Thames is crossed by a stone bridge, built
in 1828.

KINGSTON is the coronation town of
the old Anglo-Saxon kings, and the stone
upon which they sat is still in the market
place. The church of All Saints partly
dates from the time of Richard II. We
walk right through the town, as far as
Kingston Hill (nearly 2 miles from the
bridge) ; and then turning to the left, enter

RICHMOND PARK, which was enclosed
by Charles I., and covers an area of 2000
acres. The walk through the western
portion of this park is one of the most
pleasant in the vicinity of London. On
nearing the northern gate we obtain
charming glimpses of the Thames. Pas-
sing the Star and Garter Hotel, we reach
the Terrace, from which there is one of
the most charming views.

RICHMOND, the ancient name of which
was " Sheen," that is the shining or
beautiful, received its present appella-
tion by Henry VII., who rebuilt an old
Palace there, in 1497. This Palace was
pulled down by order of Parliament, in
1648, and its only remnant consists of a
stone gateway on Richmond Green. In
the parish church (St. Mary Magdalen),
are buried Thomson, the poet, and
Edmund Kean, the actor.

Kew may be reached from Richmond either
Dy boat or by walking along the river side (3
miles) ; by the high-road (2^ miles) ; fly, 2s. 6d.
or less ; or by rail (not to be recommended).
If we walk along the high-road, we reach the
Lion gate of the Kew pleasure grounds, after
a walk of hardly more than a mile.

KEW is celebrated on account of its
Botanical Gardens. These grounds were
267

formerly the property of Mr. Molyneux,
secretary to George II., at whose house
James Bradley made his two great dis-
coveries, the Aberration of Light, and the
Mutation of the Earth's Axis. In 1730,
the Prince of Wales (son to George II.),
took a lease of Kew House, and began to
form the pleasure grounds, which were
completed by his widow. At that time,
many foreign trees were introduced, and
Sir W. Chambers decorated the Gardens
with the Temples which still exist. In
1759, Mr. W. Aiton was placed in charge
of the Botanical Gardens. In 1789,
George III. purchased Kew House, which
he caused to be pulled down, fixing his
residence at another old mansion, now
known as Kew Palace. The Gardens, for
a time, flourished, but during the reigns of
George IV. and William IV., they were
neglected, and in 1840 they were relin-
quished by Her Majesty, and became the
property of the public. Sir William
Hooker was appointed director, and under
his able management, these gardens have
obtained a European reputation.

The PLEASURE GROUNDS cover an area
of 270 acres. In it are a Chinese Pagoda,
erected in 1763 by Sir W. Chambers ; a

Winter Garden (1862, by Decimus
Burton) ; " Merlin's Cave," the ruins of a
hermitage built by Queen Charlotte ; and
a small Ionic Temple (by Sir Jeffery
268

46. HAMPTON COUBT, RICHMOND AND KEW.

Wyattville, 1837). The flagstaff, erected
in 1861, consists of a Douglas Fir, 159 feet
in length, and estimated to be 250 years
old.

In the Royal Private Grounds is a plain
building, frequently inhabited by George III.,
and in the Old Deer Park, (200 acres) stands
the Observatory, erected by that King, and
now in possession of the Royal Society.

The BOTANICAL GARDENS cover an
area of 86 acres. The Temple of Minden,
with the bust of Ferdinand, of Brunswick,
stands dose to the entrance from the

i. Tropical House. 2. Tropical Fernery 3. Heath House.
4 Greenhouse. 5. Succulent House. 6. Begonia House. 7.
Economic House. 8. Cape House. 9. Tropical Store. 10.
Tropical Orchid House, n. Temperate Orchid House. 12.
Tropical House. 13. Temperate Fernery.

PLEASURE GROUNDS. The most prom-
inent building is the Palm Store, com-
pleted in 1848, from a design by Decimus
Burton. It is 362 feet long, and in the
centre, 66 feet in height. It is heated by
hot water tanks and pipes, the smoke from
the underground flues escaping through a
square Smoke Tower near Richmond-road.
Near to this is the Victoria House, occu-
pied by the Victoria Regia, a native of
South America, where it was discovered in
1828. There are three Museums. The
269

entrance gates are from a design by
Decimus Burton.

Lion Avenue affords a view of Lion House,
a seat of the Duke of Northumberland. It
was began in 1547 and completed in 1632, by
Inigo Jones, and contains a valuable collection
of art treasures.

KEW TO LONDON (by river), 1 1 miles to
Westminster Bridge. Brentford, with the
water works of the Junction Company,
lies on the left bank of the river, opposite
to Kew. We pass "The Grove," a fine
country seat, on the left, and close to it
" Barker's Rails," the goal at the Univer-
sity boat races. Mortlake, a pretty village,
with a church of the I5th century, is on the
right. Immediately below the railway
bridge we reach Barnes, with its old
church, partly dating back to the I2th
century. On the left side of the river is
Chisivick, with an old church tower of the
1 5th century.

Hogarth the painter is buried in the ceme-
tary. Chiswick House was erected by the Earl
of Burlington, in imitation of the Villa Capra,
near Vicenza, one of the masterpieces of
Palladio. In it died Charles James Fox ( 1 807),
and George Canning (1827). The Gardens of
the Horticultural Society are deserted since the
removal of that Society to South Kensington.

Hammersmith, on the left, is connected
with Castlenau by a Suspension Bridge.
The widow of Charles II. resided above
this bridge, and since her time, Hammer-
smith has been a favourite place of
residence for Roman Catholics.

The row of hduses below the bridge occupies
the site of old Brandenburg House, in which
resided Fairfax, the parliamentary general ; a
Marchioness of Brandenburg, in the time of
George III. ; and Queen Caroline, the wife of
George IV., who died here in 1821.

The Crabtree Tavern, on the left, is a
celebrated old hostelry. Below it, on the
right, we pass Barnes 1 Elms, in which
resided Count Heidegger, Master of the
Revels of George II. We are now in sight
of an aqueduct, and of Putney Bridge.
On the left, Fulham Palace, the summer
residence of the Bishop of London.

This palace dates in part from the reign of
Henry VII. It occupies the centre of a garden
surrounded by a moat. In the church close by
(i4th century) most of the Bishops of London
have been buried since the reformation.
270

46. ALEXANDRA PALACE, HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE.

PUTNEY, an old fashioned village, is the
favourite haunt of London rowing men.
It is the birth-place of Gibbon, the his-
torian, and of Thomas Cromwell, the son
of a smith, who became secretary of Car-
dinal Wolsey, was created Earl of Essex,
and terminated his existence upon the
scaffold (1540). A short distance below
the bridge, is Hurlingham Park, the scene
of pigeon shooting matches, and of other
aristocratic amusements. Wandsworth,
on the right, at the mouth of the Wandle,
abounds in manufacturing establishments,
paper mills, and breweries. An iron bridge
connects it with the left bank. On a hill,
on the right, may be seen the Almshouses
of the Fishmongers Company. We pass
through a railway bridge, and reach
Battersea (on the right). The Training
College of the National Society above old
Battersea Church, in which Bolingbroke,
the statesman and philosopher lies buried.
On the left, Cremorne Gardens, where a
pleasant evening may be spent. We pass
through Battersea bridge, an old wooden
structure. On the left, Cheyne Walk and
Chelsea church, with monuments of Sir
Thomas More, (who resided here), and of
Sir Hans Sloane. Then through Albert

Suspension Bridge. Battersea Park is on
the right, Chelsea Hospital on the left.
At the lower end of the Park, we pass
through Chelsea Siispension Bridge, (built
1857-8 by T. Page, at a cost of 85,319),
and immediately afterwards through Pi;n-
lico Railway Bridge. Beneath the two is
one of the Pumping Stations connected
with the London Drainage Works.
Vauxhall Bridge comes next. It was built
181 1- 1 6, and led to the celebrated Vaux-
hall Gardens, now occupied by unsightly
manufacturing establishments. On the
left, Millbank Penitentiary, built in the
beginning of this century, on the plan of
Jeremy Bentham. The view opens upon
the towers of the Houses of Parliament,
and of Westminster Abbey ; the seven
pavilions of St. Thomas's Hospital rise on
the right. We pass beneath Lambeth
Bridge and soon afterwards the boat stops
on the further side of Westminster Bridge.

The remaining bridges of London are :
Charing Cross Raikvay Bridge (which occupies
the site of Old Hungerford Suspension Bridge),
Waterloo Bridge, Blackfriars Bridge, Alexan-
dra Railway Bridge, Southward Bridge, Cau-

46. ALEXANDRA PALACE, HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE,

Alexandra Palace is open on week-days,
from 9 to 9. It is reached by rail from Broad-
street, Moorgate-street, or King's Cross. Car-
riages are admitted to the Palace Grounds.
There is a good restaurant, to suit all purses.

Route. We propose to combine an excur-
sion to Hampstead and Highgate. with a visit
to the Alexandra Palace. Starting from Char-
ing Cross, we take a yellow omnibus to the
corner of Tottenham Court-road ; then ex-
change it for a green omnibus (HAMPSTEAD.)

From Hampstead we walk to Croueh End
Station (3 miles), and thence ride to the Alex-
andra Palace.

CHARING CROSS TO HAMPSTEAD. A
yellow omnibus takes us through the un-
inviting parish of St. Giles, and past the
fine Church, built by D. F. Croft, to the
corner of Tottenham Court-road, where
we wait for one of the Hampstead omni-
271

buses, starting every twenty minutes.
Tottenham Court-road is a busy thorough-
fare, nearly three-quarters of a mile in
length. In it, on the left, the chapel built
for Rev. J. Whitfield, the methodist. On
reaching High-street, Camden Town, we
notice a statue of Cobden, after a photo-
graph, by one of the stonemasons in the
neighbourhood. Chalk Farm-road and
Haverstock Hill bring us from here to
Hampstead.

HAMPSTEAD (Homestead) was known
already to the Romans, and rejoices in the
possession of a mineral spring, which has
fallen into disrepute, the old pump-room
being occupied now as a chapel. The
principal church was erected in 1747? an d
the solid looking houses near it date from
the same period. The chief attraction of
272

46. ALEXANDRA PALACE, HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE.

the place is its Heath, from which the view
extends beyond the nouses of London to
the Hills of Surrey, to Harrow, and even
Windsor in the west, and to the Thames
near Gravesend, in the east.

HAMPSTEAD TO THE ALEXANDRA
PALACE (3 miles). We proceed along
Heath-road to Highgate. Close to the
heath, Jack Straw? s Castle, an old inn,
named after one of the Kentish rebels.
On the right, a large hotel, in the so-called
Vale of Health. Further on, the "Span-
iards? the head-quarters of the rioters
during the No Popery riots (1780). We
then pass between Kenwood and Bishop's
Wood, the latter an old hunting ground
of the Bishops of London, the former, the
seat of Lord Mansfield.

The Gothic steeple of the church at
Highgate is visible from afar; near it is
the grammar school (founded in 1565,
rebuilt in 1865), and the entrance to High-
gate Cemetery.

The road in front takes us to the Catacombs,
and to the Terrace above them, from which is
a fine view. Faraday's Grave is against the
wall, to the left of the entrance.

There are several buildings of historical
interest at Highgate. In Arundd House died
the great Lord Chancellor Bacon ; Cromwell
House was given by Cromwell to his son-in-law
Ireton ; Lauderdale House was the residence
of Xell Gwynne. In Dr. Gillman's House, in
the Grove, resided Coleridge, the poet, who j
is buried in the crypt of the grammar school.

On reaching Hornsey Lane we turn off
to the left and soon afterwards find our-
selves on the ARCHWAY which spans the
Hollo way road, and affords an exceedingly
fine view over London.

Beneath us, the Whittington Almshouses,
founded in 1431 by the Lord Mayor whose
name they bears. The present buildings were
erected in 1822.

On arrival at Crouch End we wait for
a railway train, and after a few minutes'
ride find ourselves landed close to the
Alexandra Palace, or (and this is far
preferable) we continue our walk through
the pretty suburban village of Hornsey,
and enter the Palace on foot. This is
hardly more than a mile further.

ALEXANDRA PALACE. This building
is an avowed rival of the Crystal Palace,
but we advise strangers, who are not able
to spare time for both, to give the prefer-
ance to the latter The Alexandra Palace
occupies a fine site on the top of Muswell
Hill, and is surrounded by a Park 220
acres in extent. The first building erected
on the spot was destroyed by fire, after a
few weeks' existence, and the existing
building was thrown open on the ist
May 1875, when it was visited by 94,000
persons. It covers an area of 7^ acres.
The Great Hall, which occupies the centre
is 386 feet long by 184 feet wide. In it
have been placed the statues of English
Sovereigns from William the Conqueror
to Queen Victoria. On one side of this
Central Hall there is the Exhibition
Department ; on the other an open Italian
Garden and Conservatory. From the
latter there is admittance to the Collection
of Arms, c., belonging to Lord Londes-
borough, one of the most interesting in
the kingdom. The spacious Theatre, and
a Concert Hall, are on either side of the
Orchestra.

The Park constitutes one of the most
attractive features of this place of enter-
tainment. It contains a race course, a
trotting ring, a lake, with a village built
on piles, a Japanese house, a Moorish
house, a banqueting hall, numerous Swiss
chalets, c. In its northen part there is
a beautifully timbered piece of ground,
known as "The Grove," where Moore
wrote some of his poems, and Dr. Johnson
walked with his friend Thrale.

273

274

47.-WINDSOE AND VIRGINIA WATER.

Route. By rail from Waterloo Station to
Windsor (25 miles, in I hour). On foot, or
with a fly, through the Park to Virginia Water,
(S miles). Thence to Staines Station, and
back to London by rail. Take a return ticket.

Coaches run during summer to Windsor
and Virginia Water, daily. They start from
Hatchett's, Piccadilly, and places should be
secured a few days in advance.

Observe. The State Apartments at Windsor
Castle are shewn on Mondays, Tuesdays and
Fridays. The Albert Memorial Chapel is shewn
on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, from
12 to 3. The Chapel, Round Tower and Royal
Stables are shewn daily (gratuity).

WATERLOO TO WINDSOR. The rail-
way runs for a considerable distance along
a viaduct occasionally far higher than the
adjoining houses. We pass Vauxhall and
Clapham Junction, cross the Wandle at
Wandsworth on a high viaduct, then fol-
low Putney, Barnes, Mortlake and Rich-
mond. The Thames is crossed beyond
the latter, and the line brings us through
a picturesque country past Twickenham,
Feltham and Ashford, to Staines, a market
town of 3,464 inhabitants, on the Thames,
where a branch line from Virginia Water
joins. On the left, on the Thames,
Runnimeade, where King John signed the
Magna Charta. Beyond Wraysbury we
perceive Windsor Castle on the left. At
Datchet the line crosses the Thames, and
a few minutes afterwards we reach
Windsor.

Before proceeding to Windsor Castle, it
may be worth while to stroll over the bridge,
and pay a visit to the celebrated Eton College,
which was founded in 1440 by Henry VI.
About 700 boys are being educated here, of
whom 70 foundation scholars (" Collegers ")
reside in the College, whilst the "Oppidans"
live in the masters' or dames' houses. The
outer quadrangle contains the schools, the
clock tower, and the chapel, which resembles
that of King's College in Cambridge. The
inner quadrangle contains the hall or dining-
room, the library, and the master's residence.
The visitors' court to the north, contains the
library, museum, and the dormitories of the
collegers.

The number of celebrated men educated
at Eton is very large. The busts of some of
them (North, Granville, Camden, Wellington,
Howe, Gray, Fox, Canning,) have been placed
jn the Upper School-room.

275

WINDSOR (White Hart ; Castle) is an
old town of 1 1,769 inhabitants, which has
been a favourite residence of the kings of
England from times immemorial. The
Castle stands on a chalk cliff, command-
ing the whole of the surrounding country,
and was founded by William the Con-
queror. Edward III. erected nearly the
whole of the present pile, William of
Wykeham was the architect. Queen
Elizabeth added the northern terrace. In
1824, Parliament granted considerable
sums to restore the Castle, which had
been allowed to fall into decay. The
works were carried on under the direction
of Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, and they cost
more than a million.

We enter the Lower Ward through
Henry VIII/s archway. In it ST.
GEORGE'S CHAPEL, an imposing structure,
founded by Edward III., but only com-
pleted during the reign of Henry VIII.
The banners of the Knights of the Garter
are displayed in the choir. Edward IV.'s
tomb, to the left of the Altar, with iron-
work by Quintin Matsys, should be
noticed. A vaulted passage leads from
here into PRINCE ALBERT'S MEMORIAL
CHAPEL, which was built by Henry VII.
for himself and his successors, then
appropriated by Wolsey (who is buried
in York Cathedral), and finally made a
royal Mausoleum by George III. Several
members of the royal family are buried
here. It has recently been restored by
the Queen, in memory of her lamented
husband, who is not, however, buried
here, but in a mausoleum in the private
grounds of the Castle.

The ROUND TOWER occupies the space
between the Upper and Lower Wards,
and rises to a height of 222 feet. From
its platform, twelve counties are said to
be visible during clear weather.

We pass through Queen Elizabeth's
Gate into the UPPER WARD, whence a
postern gate leads to the NORTH TERRACE,
and where is the entrance to the State
apartments.

They are usually shown in the following
order :

Queers Audience Chamber. Wood carvings,
by Grinling Gibbons. Tapestry, manufactured
at Coblenz, for Henry VIII. Ceiling, paintel
276

48.-MINOB EXCURSIONS.

by Verrio (Queen Catherine, Consort of Charles
II., as Britannia).

Queen's Presence Chamber. Ceiling, by
Verrio (Queen Catherine attended by the
Virtues). Carvings, by Gibbons.

Guard Chamber. Over the mantel-piece, a
silver shield, presented by Francis I. of France,
to Henry VIII. (by Benvenuto Cellini). Ceiling,
by Verrio (Queen Catherine again, as Britannia,
surrounded by JteatJien deities).

St. George's Hall, 200 feet long, built by
Wyatville, the roof decorated with the arms of
the Knights of the Garter. Portraits of Kings
of England since James I. (by Vandyck, Lely,
Kneller).

Sail Room, decorated in the style of Louis
XIV. The walls hung with Gobelin tapestry.
At the upper end, a Malachite vase, presented
by Alexander II. to Queen Victoria, and two
granite vases, presented by William IV. of
Prussia.

Throne Room. Decorated by West.

State Ante Room. Ceiling painted by Verrio.
Carvings, by Gibbons.

Waterloo Room 98 feet long, with portraits
of 38 persons who played a part in the events
of 1813-15, nearly all painted by Lawrence.

Grand Vestibule. Trophies of Arms.

Grand Staircase. Decorated by Thornhill,
with a statue of George IV. , by Chantrey.

Reubens Room. It contains eleven paintings,
by Reubens. The painting on the ceiling
represents Charles II.

Council Room. In it 35 paintings, by old
masters. On the ceiling, Jupiter and Danae.

King's Closet. 40 paintings, by old masters.
Jupiter and Leda on the ceiling.

Queen's Closet. 30 paintings, by old masters.

Queen's Drawing Room. 9 landscapes, by
Zuccarelli, and a few portraits.

Vandyck Room. There are 22 portraits,
by Vandyck, including those of Charles I. on
horseback, and of his five children with a big
dog. On the ceiling, Charles II., as Perseus,
bestowing liberty on Europe (Andromeda).

The Private Apartments of the Queen are
shown only by special permission of the Lord
Chamberlain.

We now proceed to the Terrace, from
which a view of the Little Park is obtained.
It covers an area of 60 acres, and in it are
Frogmore y a royal residence, and Prince
Albert's Mausoleum.

The GREAT PARK covers an area of
i, 800 acres, is well stocked with deer, and
has an abundance of fine trees. An
avenue, 2^ niiles in length, leads from
the Castle to Snow Hill, where there is
an equestrian statue of George III. We
then proceed south, to Cumberland Lodge,
(% mile) ; then turn to the left, in the
direction of an obelisk, then to the right,
until we reach a waterfall at the upper
end of the artificial lake, known as
Virginia Water, and finally walk along
the southern side of the latter to the
" Wheatsheaf" Inn, where a good dinner
can be procured.

The distance from "Windsor to Virginia
"Water is 8 miles. Flies to Snow Hill, charge
2s. 6d., to Virginia Water and back, los.

Virginia Water Station is within half-
a-mile of the " Wheatsheaf". Close to it
a Lunatic Asylum, endowed by Mr.
Holloway, the pill-man. A ride of a few
minutes takes us back to the junction at
Staines (see p. 275).

48. MINOR EXCURSIONS,

The following trips can be recommended
to strangers whose stay in London is
prolonged.

i. ST. A LI; AX'S, HARROW AND KENSAL
GREEN. We start from Euston, Broad
Street, Mansion House or Victoria, the
trains from which proceed to Willesden
Junction, within a mile of Kensal Green
Cemetery, which may conveniently be
visited,

2 77

Kensal Green Cemetery is the property of a
Joint Stock Company, and was opened in 1831.
Separate portions of it are set apart for
Roman Catholics, Anglicans and Dissenters.
The position of the Cemetery is very much in-
ferior to that of the cemeteries of Norwood and
Highgate, and hardly any of its monuments are
deserving of attention, but it is the burial place
of many eminent persons, and on this account
alone deserving a visit.

Amongst others we may mention Tom Hood,
276

48. MINOR EXCURSIONS.

W. M. Thackeray, Sydney Smith, John Leech,
Mulready, James Ward, Vincent "Wallace,
Robert Brown, G. B. Greenough, W. Buckle,
Sir John Ross, Sir M. I. Brunei, M. Kendall,
Joseph Hume, Feargus O'Connor.

Harroiv-on-the-Hill, (11 miles from
Euston) is famous on account of its
school, which was founded by John Lyon,
during the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
Lord Byron and Sir Robert Peel were
educated at it. The school buildings
occupy the summit of a hill, nearly a mile
from the station. From the cemetery
behind the church (a favourite spot of
Byron's) magnificent view over the
valley of the Thames, as far as Windsor.
Byron's daughter Allegra is buried here.

ST. ALBAN'S (20 miles from Euston),
was formerly one of the most important
towns of South England. Its ancient
name was Verulam, which was changed
into St. Alban's, in honour of a sainted
martyr of that name. The celebrated
abbey was founded in 795 by King Offa
of Mercia, but the oldest parts of the
existing building only date back to the
loth century. The Choir is of the I3th,
the Lady Chapel of the I5th century.
The tower should be ascended (6d).

In St. Michael's Church (% mile from
the Abbey), a monument to the great
Lord Bacon of Verulam (d. 1626), who
resided in the neighbouring Gorhambury
House.

2. EPPING FOREST is a charming bit
of woodland to the North-east of London.

We start from Fenchurch street or
Bishopsgate street and proceed by train
to Loughton (n miles). A few minutes'
walk thence take us into the Forest.
" King's Oak" an old Inn, about i# miles
from Loughton, stands in one of the
finest parts of the forest. The "high
beeches" are to the south-west of it.
Copped Hall, with a large Park, is about
2 miles to the north-east, on the fringe of
the forest, and Waltham Abbey, with a
celebrated Abbey founded by King Har-
rold (who is buried here) is 3^ miles to
the west.of Copped Hall, on the river Lea.

From Waltham Abbey return by rail to
London.

3. RYE HOUSE is a pleasant resort, 21
miles from Bishopsgate Station. It is

279

said to have been the place where the
conspirators- met who proposed to kill
perjured Charles II. and his brother James
(1683). Lord Russell and Algernon
Sidney were involved in the trial which
ensued, and executed. The old gateway
is almost the only remnant of old Rye
House, built in the reign of Henry VI.
Many relics are shown. Boating, fishing.

4. SEVENOAKS (22 miles- from Charing
Cross). Pedestrians should leave the train
at Chislehurst. A walk of a mile brings
them thence to Chislehurst Common,
where is Camden House, in which the
Emperor Napoleon died, and the chapel
in which he is buried. The road leads
thence through one of the most charming
portions of Kent, by way of Mary Cray,
Orpington, Green-street, and Cudham, to
Knockholt Beeches, and thence through
Chevening Park (mansion by Inigo Jones)
to Sevenoaks, the total distance being 1 1
miles. Or we may continue by rail as far
as Dunton Green Station, and walk thence
by way of Morants (Madam's) Court Hill,
Knockholt and Chevening to Sevenoaks

> miles).

SEVENOAKS (White Hart, Crown) is a
small town of 4,118 inhabitants. Close to
it Knole Park, with magnificent beeches.
A valuable collection of paintings in the
Mansion is shown only by soecial favour
of the Hon. M. S. West.

5. Box HILL, DORKING, LEITH HILL.
We start from London Bridge or Victoria
Stations for Box Hill Station (21 miles).
The principal station along the line is
that of Epsom, a small town of wide
celebrity, on account of the Race for the
Derby, which has taken place on the
neighbouring Downs since 1780.

From Box Hill Station we walk to
Burford bridge, where the subterranean
river Mole reappears on the surface, and
then ascend Box Hill, from which an
exceedingly fine view over the valley of
Dorking, and then descend to the town
of Dorking (Three Tuns.)

The afternoon may be spent in an excursion
to Leith Hill, 5 miles to the south of Dorking,
and the more elevated point of south-western
England. The view extends to the sea near
Beachy Head. A conveyance can be had for zos,

280

EXCURSIONS FROM LONDON.

49.-GRAVESEND, CHATHAM, ROCHESTER.

Route. Rail to Gravesend (24 miles in about
an hour) ; Gravesend to Rochester on foot (7
miles). Return to London by rail. Cobham
Hall is shown on Fridays only.
. LONDON TO GRAVESEND. We start
from Charing-cross,a high viaduct brings
us through Rotherhithe and Bermondsey
into the more open part of the country
near Lewi sham. We pass through several
tunnels before reaching Woolwich. The
Plumsteacl marshes, with pumping station
of London Drainage works are on the
left, Abbey Wood and Erith,two charming
villages, 'occupy the slopes on the right.
We pass Dartford, a busy little town
with numerous paper mills, and reach

GRAVESEND. (Clarendon, New Falcon,
Nelson,) 21,265 inhabitants. On the
river-side Clifton Baths and Rosherville
Gardens, opposite Tilbury Fort, where
Oueen Elizabeth mustered her troops
u-hen the Spaniards threatened to invade
England, an intention frustrated 1 by the
destruction of the Armada. Having
secured tickets for Cobham Hall, at
Caddel's Library, King street, we proceed
to the Windmill Hill, behind the town,
where the foot-path leading to Cobham
Hall is pointed out to us.

GRAVESEND TO ROCHESTER, a walk of
7 miles, through one of the most charming
portions of Kent. Cobham Hall contains
one of the most valuable collections of
paintings in England. The two wings
were built in the i6th century, the central
portion by Inigo Jones. The park is
extensive. On leaving it we descend into

the valley of the Medway, and keeping to
the left, reach Rochester.

ROCHESTER (18,352 inhabitants) and
CHATHAM (45,792 inhabitants) are twin
cities. (Crown and Victoria in Rochester,
Sun and Mitre in Chatham). Rochester
is one of the most ancient cities of
England. The Castle, now partly in
ruins, was built by Bishop "Gundulph,
in the time of William the Conqueror,
(admission 3d.) The Cathedral, close to
it, was founded by the same bishop in
1077, but only completed in this century.
The western front, the northern tower, and
the nave are by Gundulph (1077 1107).
Choir and transept were built in the I3th
century, the central tower in the I4th.

Rowing boats can always be had, near
the bridge. We hire one, and row to
Upnor Castle, 3 miles below the bridge,
on the left side of the river. This Castle
was built by Queen Elizabeth. We then
cross the river, and land above St. Mary's
Island, between the new and old dock-
yards, the most important in all England,
and probably in the world. We return
on foot through Chatham and Rochester.

Fort Pitt, between the two towns, affords a
fine view.

ROCHESTER TO LONDON (31 miles) by
rail. Immediately after leaving the
station we enter a tunnel i# miles long,
from which we emerge at Higham. The
next station is Gravesend.

The last Boat leaves Gravesend for London,
at 7 p.m., and performs the journey in 2j hours.

50.-OXFORD.

A day may bs spent most profitably
in a visit to Oxford.

LONDON TO OXFORD (63 miles, express
in i # hours.) We start from Paddington
281

Station (or from one of the stations of
the underground railway connected with
it). At Drayton, we reach the boundary
of Middlesex. We then cross the Colne
282

50.- OXFORD.

and enter Buckinghamshire. At Slough
(branch line to Windsor,) Herschel had
his celebrated observatory. At Maiden-
head, (6,173 inhabitants) we cross the
Thames into Berkshire.

The Thames Valley between Maidenhead and
Great Marlow (7 miles) is famed for its pictur-
esque sceneiy, and might be visited on foot.
Follow the left bank of the river, past Cliefden
(a country seat of the Duke of Sutherland) to
Cookham ; then cross, and follow the right
bank as far as Great Marlow, which is con-
nected with Oxford by rail.

Beyond Maidenhead the line passes
through a deep cutting as far as Twyford,
and then reaches Reading 32,234 inhabi-
tants, a busy town, with an immense
biscuit manufactory and a Grammar School
(Waterhouse, architect, 1871-3). Beyond
Pangbourne we cross the Thames into
Oxfordshire.

OXFORD. Hotels : Randolf, Claren-
don, Mitre, Roebuck, Three Cups ; Shake-
speare Restaurant : Boffin, High Street.
Cabs. Station into town is. 6d.

a. St. Alban's Hall. b. All Soul's College, c. Ashmolean
Museum. <\. Hrilliol College, e. Brasenose College, f. Cathe-
dral, g. Christ Clurrch College, h. Clarendon Building, i.
Corpus Christi Collet,";. k. St. Edmund's Hall. 1. Ivxeter
College. m. Jail and Castle Ruins. n. Jesus College, o.
Lincoln College, p. Mandril i_-n College, q. Hertford '
r. Martyr's Memorial, s. St. Mary's Church, t. St. Mary's
Hall. u. st. Mary Magdalen, v. Merton "College. w. St.
Michaers. x. Oriel College, y. Pembroke College, .z. Queen's
College. i. Radclifle Library. 2. Schools. 3. Taylor's
Buildings. 4. Theatre. 5. University College. 6. Trinity
College.

Oxford is a city of 32,477 inhabitants,
at the confluence of Chenvell and Thames,
283

locally known as Isis. It is the seat of
the most ancient University of England,
abounding in historical associations.
Duns Scotus taught here in the I3th cen-
tury ; Wickliffe preached in following
century against the increasing power of
clergy, but the University has at all times
proved a staunch supporter of Church and
State. There are Colleges and Halls, 5 r
University Professors and 2,440 Under-
graduates or students. The revenues of
the University and of the Colleges amount
to .336,000 a year, they are patrons of
442 church livings worth ,188,000 more.
Dissenters are admitted now to Fellow-
ships.

We notice the principal buildings in the
order in which they present themselves
during a walk through the town.

From the station we* walk to Carfax
(quatre voies, that is four ways) where we turn
to the right, down St. Aid gate-street.

CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE (Plan g)
was founded in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey.
Tom gate leads into the great Quad-
rangle, with Hall (the finest in Oxford,
and deserves inspection). A passage leads
thence to the Cathedral, consecrated in
1 1 80. The choir is Norman; the Nave
was rebuilt by Wolsey. In Peckwater
Quad the Library and collection of
Pictures bequeathed to the College by
General Guise, in 1765. Canterbury
Quad to the East, occupies the site of
the old College in which Wickliffe
preached and Sir Thomas Moore studied.

MERTON COLLEGE (Plan v) was
founded in 1274 by Walter de Merton,
bishop of Rochester, and is the oldest
College of Oxford, as far as authentic
records exist. A gateway (1416) leads into<
the first quad, \\\\.\\*Chapcl (consecrated
in 1276). The Great Quadras built 1600 ;
passages lead from it into the *Mob Court^
with Bede's Library, the oldest in the
kingdom (1384) and into the Gardens.

Pass into Merton Fields and alon^
Broad Walk and the river to

MAGDALEN COLLEGE (Plan p) founded
in 1473 by Bishop Waynfleet of Win-
chester. The gate is by Pugin (1844). The
Chapel was completed by the founder and
has been carefully restored. The cloisters

50.-OXFORD.

of the great Quad were built 1473-9- In
the Chaplain's Quad*, noble tower (1492-

3503).

We now walk along the famous High Street.

St. Peter' s-in-the-East, in a side-street
on the right, is probably the oldest church
in Oxford. It was built between the i2th
and 1 5th centuries. Portions of the Choir
and Nave are Norman, and the crypt
dates back probably to the beginning of
the 1 2th century, though it is said to be
much older.

QUEEN'S COLLEGE (Plan z) was
founded in 1340 by Robert of Eglesfield,
the father confessor of Queen Philippa.
The existing buildings are by Wren (1711).
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE (Plan 5.) was
founded in 1249 by William of Durham.
Most of the existing buildings were erected
between 1634-30. In the chapel a fine
monument to Sir William Jones, by Flax-
man.

ST. MARY'S CHURCH (Plan s) usually
called the University Church, was built
1 300- 1 498, the southern vestibule excepted,
which was added in 1637.

Raddiffe Square is behind it.

RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, in the centre of
this square, is an incongruous Italian
building, with a cupola, erected 1737-49
by J. Gibbs. It contains a collection of
casts from the antique, &c. Its dome
should be ascended.

ALL SOUL'S COLLEGE (plan b) was
founded by Archbishop Chichele of Can-
terbury in 1437. The first quad was
built in 1437, the second in 1716-56 by
Hawksmoor. The chapel, between the
two, has been carefully restored, and
contains a statue of Blackstone(by Bacon).

BRASENOSE COLLEGE on the other
side of the square, owes its existence to
William Smith, bishop of Lincoln, and
occupies perhaps the site of a brewhouse
or Brnsinium. The present buildings
date from the i$th and I7th centuries,
and are in depraved Gothic. The Hall
in the first quad (1509) and the Chapel
(by Wren), deserve attention.

The SCHOOLS on the northern side of
Radcliffe square were used in former
times as lecture rooms (hence the name).
These buildings contain now the Con-
vocation house, various examination

285

halls, the Arundel Marbles, brought
hither from Asia Minor, and the Bodleian
Library, founded by Sir Thomas Bodley
at the close of the i6th century. On the
second floor of this Library, a collection
of portraits (by Holbein, Vandyck, Lely,
Kneller), and busts (by Chantrey, Wilton,
Bacon), and models of Greek and Roman
temples.

Observe also the School of Divinity,
(1445-80), in which Parliament sat in
1625.

NEW COLLEGE in a side street, was
founded by bishop Wykeham, and partly
from his own designs (1380-85). The
great quad has had a third story added
in 1675. The Chapel is one of the best
examples of the perpendicular style extant.
A second quad is by Wren, the new
buildings are by Scott.

We now proceed to the Clarendon
\ Buildings, formerly University Printing
| Offices, now a Geological Museum, the
Sheldonian Theatre (plan 4), and the
Ashmolean Museum (plan c), which
contains Tradescent's collection of curi-
osities. The two latter buildings are by
Wren.

The MUSEUM was erected in 1860 from
the designs of Deane and Woodward, and
contains anatomical, physiological and
zoological collections, laboratories, &c.
The chemical laboratory close to it is
modelled after the kitchen of Glastonbury
Abbey. Nearly opposite is

KEBLE COLLEGE the most recent of all,
erected by Butterfield (1868-70).

"We now cross over to St. Giles's-street.
Towards the north, St. Giles's Church (13111
century) ; Raddifie Observatory, founded 1772,
by Dr. Radcliffe ; and University Press, a
classical building.

ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE was founded in
I SSS) by a Lord Mayor of London. The
first quad old, the second by Inigo Jones.

TAYLOR INSTITUTION, a classical
building (by C. R. Cockerell), for the
study of modern languages, with the
University galleries, (Pomfret statues,
picture gallery with 53 drawings by
Michael Angelo, 137 by Raphael, c.)

The MARTYR'S MEMORIAL at the top
of the street, was designed by Sir J. Scott.
286

51.-BRIGHTON.

The statues of Latimer, Cranmcr and
Ridley are by Weekes. Behind it in the
church, St. Mary Magdalen (plan u), built
1320-1490, with the exception of the
tower, which was completed in 1531, and
one of the aisles.

EXETER COLLEGE (plan 1), was founded
by a bishop of Exeter, in 1314. The
northern part of the College, including
Library and Chapel (modelled upon La
Sainte Chapelle at Paris), was completed
in 1863 by Sir Gilbert Scott.

SL-BRTGHTON.

51 miles in \\ to 2 hours. A Coach
from Hatchett's, Piccadilly, daily, in 5^ hours.

We start from London Bridge. The
train conveys us through the manufactur-
ing quarters of South-eastern London,
then past the charmingly situated sub-
urban villages of Forest Hill, Sydenham
(with the Crystal Palace) to Croydon, an
old town of 55,652 inhabitants.

We cross the fertile Holmesdale,
bounded by the chalk downs in the north,
and by sandstone hills in the south, and
reach Red-hill, an important junction.
Near it is a farm of the Philanthrophic
Society for the reformation of young

and which became fashionable in 1782,
in consequence of George IV.'s frequent
visits. In the beginning of this century
Brighton had only 7,300 inhabitants, it
has now 90,000. There are a magnificent
Marine Parade and two piers, viz., the
West-end Pier, 1,150 feet long, and the
Chain Pier, a few feet shorter. The best
buildings are near the " Steyne," a wide
street, which divides trie town into an
eastern and a western porticn. The
Pavilion is a curious pile of buildings,
built by Nash for George IV., and now
used as a town Museum, for concerts, &c.
The AQUARIUM, near the Chain Pier,

criminals. Three Bridges, another junc-
tion, is the first station in Sussex. A long
tunnel follows, then a viaduct over the
valley of the Ouse, and we reach Hay-
ward's Heath. The railway then passes
through two tunnels cut through the
Southern Downs, and reaches Brighton.

BRIGHTON (Grand Hotel, Ship Hotel 5
Clarence and many boarding houses.)

Brighton is a favourke sea-bathing town
within easy reach of London, to which
attention was first drawn by Dr. Russell,

however, is the most attractive institution
of the town. Concerts take place there
regularly, and there is a good restaurant.
(Admission 6d.)

The other public buildings are indicated
upon our plan. A walk through the Park and
thence to the Race Course can be recommended,
but even more interesting is a ride to the DcviTk
Dyke, 5 miles to the north-west of the town, or
to the Ditchling Beacon, a similar distance to
the north. From the Devil's Dyke to the
nearest railway station on the London. Line
(Hassock's Gate), is under 6 miles.
288

52. HASTINGS.

By railway, 75 miles in -2,\ hours. A coach
performs the journey to Tunbridge Wells
in 4 hours. It starts at 10 a.m. daily, from
Hatchett's, Piccadilly.

Start from Charing Cross Station or
Cannon Street. The route, as far as Seven-
oaks, has already been described (see
chapter 48.)

At Tunbridge Junction we cross the
main line from Red Hill to Dover. Tun-
bridge is an old town of 8,209 inhabitants,
on the Medvvay. There are the ruins of
a Norman Castle. Tunbridge ware (wood
carvings) is manufactured here. Four
miles to the south is

TUNDRIDGE WELLS, (Calverley's Hotel,
Royal Victoria, Castle,) is a fashionable
spa, of 19,410 inhabitants, with hot
springs. The place first came into notice
in the time of Charles II. The first
church was built in 1658.

Places in the neighbourhood : Remarkable
rocks 1 4 mile west of the town. Crowbortf
Common, 7 miles to the south. Bay ham
Abbey, 5 miles. Penshtirst Castle, 5 miles, and
Hcvcr Castle, 7 miles.

The next place of importance is BATTLE,
thus named in consequence of William the
Conqueror's victory over Harold, the
Saxon, in 1066. An Abbey was erected
on the spot where Harold fell, of which
there still exist extensive ruins.

Pedestrians will be charmed with the walk
from here to St. Leonards, or Hastings (6
miles).

HASTINGS (29,291 inhabitants) and ST.
LEONARDS, are twin towns, extending for
two miles along the sea. The harbour
of the former was destroyed in the i6th
century by a storm, but the town has
more than recovered from this misfortune
since it has become a fashionable sea-side
resort. It occupies a valley between East
Cliff and West Cliff, the latter crowned by
the ruins of a Norman Castle.

The fishermen of Hastings have preserved
many of their old customs (they were great
smugglers in former times).

A visit to Fairlight, to the East of the town,
will amply repay the fatigue it involves.

Hotels : Victoria, Oxford and Cambridge,
in St. Leonards ; Queen's and Royal Oak, in
Hastings.

A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND, WALES, SCOTLAND AND IRELAND,

53. ISLE OP WIGHT.

1ST DAY. LONDON TO VENTNOR.

By starting from London at 7 a.m.,
Ventnor may be reached at n 15 a.m.

LONDON TO PORTSMOUTH (74 miles in
2 hrs. 10 m.) Start from Waterloo,
Godalming, Witley, Haslemere, Liss,
Petersfield and Havant.

We pass through London on a high
viaduct. At VVeybridge, not far from the
Thames, we cross the river Wey. Soon
after, on the left, a large cemetery,
(Woking Necropolis,) and the Royal
Dramatic College. Guildford, a town of
10,000 inhabitants, in a charming neigh-
bourhood.

Fine walk from Guildford to Catherine's
Hill (j mile), to Clandon Heath, or to the
Hog's Back.

GODALMING is a busy town of 8,000
inhabitants, (paper mills,) on the Wey.
The express stops at Witley, Haslemere,
289

| Liss and Petersfield. At Havant it
crosses the outer line of fortifications. on
the Portsdown Hills, and we reach

PORTSMOUTH (Fountain, York, Pier
Hotel ; cabs is. into the town ; a tram
from station to the steam boat ferry for
Rye). Portsmouth is one of the most
important fortresses and naval arsenals
of the United Kingdom (garrison 10,000
men). It lies at the entrance of a com-
modious harbour, Portsea, Portsmouth,

j and Southsea being on the east, Gosport
(with the Royal Clarence Victualling
Yard) opposite, to the west (ferry).
These sister towns have a population
of 103,000 inhabitants. They are de-
fended by a series of detached forts on
the land-side, and by Southsea Castle, Fort
Monkton and several iron-clad towers on
the seaside. The fine roadstead between
Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight is
called Spithead.

290

54.-ISLE OP WIGHT.

There are two early-English churches in the
town (St. Thomas-a-Becket, 1190, and Domus
Dei) ; but the principal sight is the Dockyard
with Arsenal. Porchester Castle, at the bottom
of the harbour, may be reached by rowing
boat. Its interior walls are partly of Roman
origin ; the keep is Saxon and Norman ; the
chapel, Norman (1153).

PORTSMOUTH TO RYDE, start from
Southsea, passage 25 minutes. Haslar
Hospital for seamen on the right ; several
iron-clad towers on the left. Fine view
of the Isle of Wight We land at a pier
2,280 feet in length. Ryde is a pleasant
seaside town of 11,000 inhabitants.

enjoyable in the island. From Ventnor
to the Steep-hill (flagstaff) along the
shore ; then up to the high road and St.
Lawrence; then up again, and along the
edge of the cliffs to the Lighthouse, and
the Column on St. Catherine's Down
(792 feet), where a magnificent view ;
down to the Blackgang Hotel, at the
foot of this hill, and inspection of the
Blackgang Chine.

From here by way of Brixton (good
inn) to Freshwater (Plumblay's Hotel).

The Western extremity of the island should
be explored. A fine walk from the Hotel,

RYDE TO VENTNOR, n miles. The
railway conveys passengers in less than
half-an-hour, but unless it is proposed to
stay at Ventnor for some time, it is ad-
visable to leave the train at Sandown,
and to walk the remaining 6 miles by
way of Shanklin, (at the top of a fine
" Chine " or ravine) and Bonchurch.

VENTNOR (Marine Hotel), a pictur-
esquely situated town on that part of the
south coast of the Isle of Wight, known
as the Undercliff.

Excursion to the Boniface Downs, Cook's
Castle, and the obelisk on Appuldur Combe
and back, 5 miles.

2ND DAY. VENTNOR TO FRESHWATER.

19 miles, either on foot or by coach.
The walk from Ventnor to the Blackgang
Chine (7 miles) is one of the most
291

over the downs to the Lighthouse above the
Needles and down to Alum Bay (Tennyson's
residence passed on way). Or with a boat
along face of cliffs (caverns), to the Needles
and back over the downs.

3RD DAY. VENTNOR TO COWES AND
SOUTHAMPTON.

i. VENTNOR TO NEWPORT, 9 miles.
A delightful road over the Downs, (ask
for Galleberry Downs, where are " pits,"
the remains of ancient British dwellings).
Before entering Newport, visit CARIS-
BROOK CASTLE, (Red Lion Inn near it)
with a Norman keep and outworks built
by Queen Elizabeth. It is full of interest
and well worth a visit.

The Roman villa near it is not worth
looking at.

NEWPORT, 7,980 inhabitants, the capital
of the island, lies on the navigable
292

54.-SOTJTH-WESTERN ENGLAND.

Medina, 4> miles above its mouth,
between the t\vo Cowes.

2. NEWPORT TO COWES, 4^ miles,
either by rail, or on foot, through the
Parkhurst Forest

COWES (Gloucester, Fountain or Vine),
7,800 inhabitants. The Royal Yacht
Club has its head-quarters in West
Cowes, and Osborne, the Queen's sum-
mer residence, is about a mile from East
Cowes.

3. COWES TO SOUTHAMPTON, 12 miles,
which the steamer performs in 50 minutes.
The passage leads up Southampton
Water, a narrow arm of the sea. On the
left, New Forest, planted by William the
Conqueror ; on the right we pass the
ruins of Netley Abbey, (founded 1240) and
the Netley Hospital for sailors and
marines.

SOUTHAMPTON. (Radley's, Dolphin,)
53,741 inhabitants, one of the principal
sea-ports of the United Kingdom, whence
the Mail Steamers depart for America,
Asia, Africa and Australia.

The tourist, should visit the Docks as well as
the Bargate, in High-street, originally built by
the Saxons or Normans. An omnibus brings
-as past the Ordnance Office (where the

topographical maps of the United Kingdom
are prepared), to the Park, There is another
Park (with a monument of Watts), nearer to
the river.

If time permits, a visit may be paid to
j Netley Abbey (2\ miles), or an excursion made
into New Forest (Beaulieu Abbey).

4TH DAY. SOUTHAMPTON TO LONDON.

Distance 70 miles, performed in 2j
hours. Fast trains only stop at Northam,
Winchester and Basingstoke. By all
means devote a few hours to WINCHESTER
and its fine Cathedral, erected 1075-86,
with the exception of the crypt, which
dates back to the loth century.

Observe likewise Winchester School (founded
1339) ; the Cross in High-steeet, the County
Hall close to it (a remnant of a royal palace) ;
and the barracks, built by Wren, for Charles
II. (1683).

About a mile to the south of Winchester, is
the Hospital of St. Cross, with a beautiful
chapel, and near it St. Catherine's Hill, with
traces of a Roman camp and fine prospect.

BASINGSTOKE is the only other place

of importance passed on the way to

London. (The camp at Aldershot is left

j 2 miles to the right). At Woking Ne-

j cropolis we again find ourselves upon the

I line by which we left London.

54.-SOTJTH-WESTERN ENGLAND.

5TH DAY. LONDON TO BATH AND BRISTOL.

LONDON TO BATH, ico miles in 2>
hours, starting from Paddington. The
express stops at Swindon Junction only.
We pass in rapid succession a number of
suburban places. Maidenhead and Read-
ing (see chap. 50). We then cross Berks
and the fertile pastures of Wilts, reach the
valley of the Avon, and having emerged
from a long tunnel cross the river on a
high viaduct and find ourselves in Bath.

BATH. (York House, Greyhound,
Angel ; Cabs 2s. an hour.) Is one of the
finest cities of England, and owes its pros-
perity to the hot springs already known
to the Romans. Beau Nash, in the i8th
century, rendered a visit to these wells
fashionable, and the town is indebted to
ham for many improvements.

293

Walkthrough the tenon ; Station ; Museum^
South Parade (antiquities, &c.) ; the Abbey
Church, built 1495-1616, and restored by Sir
G. Scott ; the Pump Rooms ; the Guildhall, in
High-street ; St. Michael's Church, in North-
gate-street ; Queen Square and Victoria Park ;
Royal Crescent ; Circus ; Assembly Rooms ;
and back to Abbey Church.

Beechen Cliff, near the station, should also
be ascended.

BATH TO BRISTOL. 12 miles in 20
minutes. The railway follows the river
Avon.

BRISTOL. (City Hotel, Bristol, Royal,
Swan.) 182,552 inhabitants, an important
city on the Avon, 8 miles above its mouth,
and one of the most ancient sea-ports of
England. (Cabot, the younger, was a
native of Bristol and sailed from it in
1497, when he discovered North America.)
294

54. SOUTH-WESTERN ENGLAND.

Tobacco manufacture and sugar refining
are important branches of industry, but
the manufacture of the once famous West
of England cloth is carried on now only
to a small extent in the neighbourhood.
Clifton, with its mineral springs, is a
suburb of Bristol.

Walk through the to^un : Station ; St. Marv
Reddijfe, the finest church of the town (i$th
century) ; Temple street, with many old houses
and a curious church with leaning tower ;
High-street, with Stuckey's Bank, a building
imported from Holland, in the i6th century;
Guildhall ; Council House ; Royal Exchange,
and St. Stephen's Church (tower of I5th
century). Over a branch of the Avon, to the
Cathedral (built 1306-1332, with the exception
of the Lady Chapel and the Norman Chapter
House, and of the Xave, which has been
rebuilt recently, by Street).

Philosophical Institution (Museum) ; Bishop" 1 *
College (a grammar school), and up Brandon
Hill (fine prospect); Clifton Suspension Bridge,
hot wells below; Observatory and Giant's
Cavern ; Zoological Gardens ; Victoria Rooms,
and back to Cathedral. Queen's Square (with
Custom House and Docks.

6TH DAY. BRISTOL TO ILFRACOMBE,

By water 75 miles in about 6 hours
(steamers three times a week.)

The steamer proceeds down the Avon
(9 miles) to the Severn, and then proceeds
down the Bristol Channel, which gradually
widens to 30 miles. On the left, Weslon-
super-Mare a fashionable bathing place,
and opposite to it on the coast of Gla-
morgan, Cardiff, a busy coal and iron port,
with its long pier. We pass Flatholm and
Steepholm, two fortified islands in the
centre of the Channel, and then keep along
the bold northern coast of Somerset and
Devon. Lynmouth and Lynton, two
pretty watering places, are seen.

Ilfracombe may also be reached by rail, via
Taunton and Barnstaple, in 4 1 hours.

ILFRACOMBE. (Britannia, Clarence.)
4,721 inhabitants, is a favourite summer-
resort in one of the finest parts of Devon-
shire.

Pleasant walks abound. Barnstat>le is
within easy reach by rail or coach, and so is
Bideford. Near latter, Westward Ho! a
grand hotel.

295

7TII DAY. ILFRACOMBE TO PLYMOUTH.

86 miles in -5 hours. (Take seat ort
right side.) Barnstaple, 11,659 inhabi-
tants, is the first station of importance.
Then up the River Taw, and over the
water parting between Taw and Exe, to
Yeoford Junction, where the direct line to
Exeter branches off. (Take seat on left-
side.) The heights of Dartmoor Forest
rise on the left, their highest summits
being the Yeo Tor, 2,050 feet, and the
High Wilhays, 2,040 feet. We pass
Okehampton and reach Tavistock, 7,725
inhabitants, in the picturesque valley of
the Tavy.

From Tavistock to Plymouth is 1 6 miles,
and the walk can be recommended to pedes-
trians. Route : Walkhampton, Meavor-on-
the-Plym, and down the latter, past Shaugh
and Bickleigh.

Or, we walk from Tavistock to Calstock, on
the Tamar (7 miles) ascend St. Kitt's Hill, and
proceed by river boat to Plymouth (15 miles.)

PLYMOUTH. (Duke of Cornwall, Royal
Hotel ; cabs 4d. for half-a-mile.) Ply-
mouth, with its sister towns of Stonehouse
and Devonport, has 133,000 inhabitants.
It occupies a magnificent position on
Plymouth Sound, was first fortified by
Henry VI., after it had been plundered
several times by the French, and is now
one of the strongest fortresses and most
important arsenals of the United King-
dom. A breakwater, 5,100 feet long, built
1812-40, at a cost of ,1,500,000, protects
the entrance to the Sound.

Walk through tho town: Station; the
" Hoe," a hill with citadal (magnificent pros-
pect : the " Catwater," Mount Batten, on the
left ; St. Nicholas island, in the sound ; Mount
Edgcumbe on the right. Eddystone Light-
house is visible on clear days). St. Andrew's
Church, Town Hall and Court ; Thealte.

Across the " Stonehouse Lake " into
Devonport, and up Mount Wise (the Hamoaze,
or roadstead for men-of-war, on the right, the
Royal Victualling yard below, on the left).

At the foot of Mount Wise, a ferry for Mount
Edgcumbe Park (fine views).

The Naval establishments (Dock-yard in
Devonport, Victualling-yard and Naval Hos
pital in Stonehouse) are deserving inspection.
The Dock-yard is shown at IO, 2 and 4 ;
but foreigners must he furnished with an
Admiralty order.

2q6

55.-NORTH OP ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

Excursions: \3$ the Tamar (Hamoaze) 15
miles to Calstock (by steamer), and then up
St. Kill's Hill, 1,067 feet ; or, up the Cat-
water to Saltram (rowing boat).

Sri! DAY. PLYMOUTH TO EXETER.

52 miles, i hour 50 minutes. Past
Mutley and Kingsbridge to Totncs, 4,000
inhabitants, on the river Dart. The
Dartmoor forest is seen on the left.
Newton Junction and down the valley
of the Teign to TEIGN.MOUTH (Royal)
6,751 inhabitants, in a picturesque position
at the mouth of the Teign.

We advise pedestrians to leave the rail at
Totnes ; to proceed to Dartmouth, at the
mouth of the Dart, by steamer (2^ miles), and
to walk thence to Teignmouth (18 miles.)
The road leads through Brixham (where
William of Orange landed) ; Paignton,
Torquay and Babbicombe to Teignmouth.
This route leads through one of the finest
parts of Devonshire.

Daiulish, the next station, is a pictur-
esque watering place. We cross the Exe
and reach

EXETER (Clarence, New London)
34,650 inhabitants, the capital of Devon-
shire, 8 miles above the mouth of the Exe.
It is a very old city, and during the 1 7th
and 1 8th centuries was one of the prin-
cipal seats of the woollen industry. From
the old walls, as well as from the
Northcrnhay (north of the town), and
Rougemoiitfino. prospect. The Guildhall
and the Cathedral are the most interesting
buildings. The latter was founded in
1 1 12, and completed in 1380. The two
square towers are Norman. They are
145 feet in height (fine prospect).

Exmouth, at the mouth of the Exe (10 miles),
can be reached by rail. A walk thence along
the coast, to Salterton and Sidmouth (8 miles),
and thence to Lyme Regis (15 miles), would
amply repay for the exertion.

9TH DAY. EXETER TO SALISBURY,

88 miles in 2 hours 38 minutes. ' The
express only stops at Yeovil Junction and
Templecombe. At Ottcry we cross the
fine valley of the Otter. The next station
is Honiton, celebrated for its lace. Then
follow Colyton and Axminster, beyond
which we enter Somersetshire. Sherborne
in Dorset, boasts of a fine abbey church.
Templecombe. Beyond Shaftesbury\ we
enter Wiltshire. On the right, Wardour
Castle (Lord Arundel), with ruins of the
castle which Lady Blanche held with 25
men against 1,300 men of the Parlia-
mentary army.

SALISBURY (White Hart) 12,903 in-
habitants, is the capital of Wiltshire. It
was founded in the I3th century, when
Old Sarum was abandoned. The chief
object of interest is the Cathedral, built
1220-58 with the exception of the tower,
and the western portal, which were
completed in 1350. The tower rises to a
height of 400 feet. Visit also the Town
Hall on the market place ; the Butter
Cross (i4th century), and the China shop
in Canal Street, the show-room of which
dates from the year 1470.

An excursion to Stonehenge (10 miles), will
interest only antiquarians. On the road to it
we pass the site of Old Sarum. Longford
Castle (Lord Folkestone), 3 miles south of Salis-
bury, contains a valuable collection of pictures.
Clarendon, 2 miles to the east, with ruins of
a palace, in which Parliament passed the
"Constitutions of Clarendon" (1164).

IOTH DAY. SALISBURY TO LONDON.

83 miles in 2 hours. The train rushes
past Andover (Andaseron of the Romans),
and passes through chalk hills, to
Basingstoke (see chap. 53, 4th day)
Thence to Vauxhall and London (Water-
loo.)

55.-NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

IITH DAY. LONDON TO NEWCASTLE.

LONDON TO YORK, 229 miles in 4

hours, 15 minutes. Start from King's

Cross. The train passes rapidly through

the suburbs of London, crosses Bedford-

297

shire, and passes Huntingdon, 4,243
inhabitants, the capital of Huntingdon-
shire. We then cross a range of hills
and enter upon the low marshes known
as the Fens. Stilton, celebrated for its
298

55.-NORTH OP ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

cheese, is on the left. Peterborough
11,264 inhabitants, in Northamptonshire,
is celebrated on account of its Cathedral.
We cross the Welland into Lincolnshire.
Stoke Rochford, the birthplace of Isaac
Newton, remains 3 miles on our right.
Grant/lam 5,028 inhabitants, has a fine
church of the I3th century. The county
of Nottingham is passed through rapidly,
for the express does not even stop at
to\vns like Newark (12,195 inhabitants),
Rctford(*$,\^ inhabitants), or DONCASTER
(18,768 inhabitants), the first town in
Yorkshire.

The country through which we pass is
generally level and well cultivated. We
cross the Don, then the Aire, and reach
Sclby, an old town on the Ouse.

YORK (Station Hotel, Black Swan),
43,796 inhabitants, one of the most
ancient cities of England, on the navig-
able Ouse. The emperor Severus died
here 235, and Constantine, the first Chris-
tian emperor was born in York, which has
been the seat of a bishop since 625. The
old town walls still exist, and afford a
walk round the whole of the town.

Walk through the town: Station; over the
bridge to the Museum Garden (is.), with ruins
of St. Leonard's Hospital, Roman Wall, ruins
of St. Mary's Abbey and Museum ; outside
BootJunn Bar, to the Manor House (built dur-
ing the reigns of James I. and Charles I., now
a Blind School) ; Cathedral (York Minster),
the finest ecclesiastical building in England,
(central Tower, 2 1 3ft., should be ascended) ;
St. Croix (a church of the 1 5th century with
a Tower of the l6th) ; Merchants' Hall in
Fosgate (1373) ; Castle (Clifford's Tower is the
only portion dating back to William the Con-
queror) ; Coney-street (many old houses, in-
cluding Mansion House and Guildhall, 1446).
Over the river to Mlcklegate (Norman), walk
along the walls.

Scarborough, a favourite watering place, is
within one and a half hours ride from York ;
Harrogate is within an hour's ride.

Instead of proceeding from Doncaster direct
to York the tourist might follow the following
itinerary : I. London to Leeds (226 miles in
5 hours ; trip to Bradford (9 miles) and back.
2. Leeds to Ilkley (16 miles) ; Excursion to
Bollon Abbey. 3. Ilkley to Harrogate (20
miles) ; excursion to Ripon (12 miles), with
old Minster; near it Studley Park and the
299

ruins of Fountains Abbey; in the evening to
York.

YORK TO NEWCASTLE-OX-TYNE, 84
miles in 3 hours. \Ye cross the fertile
vale of York, having the Yorkshire Moors
on our right, the Pennine Hills on the
left. Thirsk Junction j Northallcrton.
On the left, the Standard Hill, where the
battle of Standards was fought 1 1 38. We
cross rhe Tees into Durham. Darlington,
27,726 inhabitants, is a busy manufacturing
town. The first railway in the world was
built from that place to Stockton-on-Tees
in 1825.

DURHAM (Waterloo, Three Cups),
14,406 inhabitants, on the river Wear,
with fine Cathedral and Castle on the
summit of a hill, well deserves a few
hours delay.

We reach Gateshead, cross the river
Tyne on a viaduct, 1,400 feet long, and
112 high, and find ourselves in Newcastle.

NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE (Station Hotel,
Queen's Head), 128,443 inhabitants, 8
miles above Shields and T'ynemouth, and
connected by two bridges with Gateshead,
is one of the .principal seats of the coal
trade, (the saying, "carrying coals to New-
castle," is due to this circumstance.) There
are also important engine works and
foundries (Sir W. Armstrong's Elswick
foundry.)

Walk through the town : Station, Monu-
ment of Stephenson, Town Hall, St. Nicholas
Church (built 1359, with a much admired
steeple, an imitation of which is that of St.
Dunstan's-in-the-East, London) ; Castle (Keep
and Chapel of time of William the Conqueror ;
the latter contains the Museum of the Anti-
quarian Society) ; up Grey-street to Column ;
Exchange; Guildhall (1658) in the lower
Town ; over the low bridge to Gateshead and
back over the Railway Viaduct.

I2TII DAY. NEWCASTLE-OX-TYXE TO
EDINBURGH.

124 miles in 3 hours. The express
only stops at Morpeth, Bilton Junction
and Berwick, Morpeth is an old town of
5,914 inhabitants, 'in- Northumberland.
We pass the ruins of Warkworth Castle,
on the silver Coquet, near the coast, and
reach Bilston Junction, from which there
is a branch to Alnwick (3 miles), with a
300

55.-NORTH OP ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

fine old castle. Bamborough Castle and
Holy Island, with Lindisfarne Abbey, are
seen on the right, and near the latter, on
the left, Flodden Field, where the Scotch
were defeated by the English in 1513.
We pass close along the coast, cross the
Tweed on a high viaduct, and reach
Berwick, 13,282 inhabitants, an old Scotch
frontier fortress, ceded to England in
1482, and now included in the County of
Northumberland. Soon afterwards we
leave the coast, and proceed up the valley

EDINBURGH.

hotels: Balmoral and Crown, in Princes-
street. Cabs : is. a mile, or 33. an hour.

EDINBURGH, the capital of Scotland,
has a population of 197,581 inhabitants,
and is undoubtedly one of the finest cities
in the world. A deep valley separates
the old town, with its lofty houses and
narrow streets, from the fine quarters of
the new town. One hill is occupied by
the castle, another (Carlton Hill) by a.

E.G.Rvvtta

of the Eye to Grant s House, in the centre
of the hills of Lammermuir. At Dunbar
we are again on the sea-coast (castle in
which Marie Stuart resided after the
murder of Rizzio, and defeat of the Coven-
anters by Cromwell, 1650). We pass
Haddingtoti) and enter the county of Mid-
Lothian at Preston Pans (defeat of the
English by Prince Charles, 1745). Soon
afterwards through a tunnel into the
station of Edinburgh.
301

vurtaau

number of monuments, and a third,
Arthur's seat, the highest of all, affords
one of the finest views over the city, and
should be ascended.

Walk through the town : Princes-street ;
(Sir Walter Scott's Monument, &c.) ; Ropil
Institution; (Architect, -W. H. Playfair, with
Antiquarian Museum) and National GaJIerr,
(same architect), occupy the " Mound," which
connects the new town with the old. Past
Free Church College to the Castle (the regalia
3 02

55.-NOETH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

are shown between 12 and 3 daily). Down
High-street and Canongate to Holyrood
Palace. We pass Sf. Giles' Church, the oldest
of the town, and old Parliament House, now
Court of Justice (the great Hall should be
inspected) ; Tron Church (1663) ; John Knox's
House (he died in it 1572; it is probably the
oldest house in the city. )

Holyrood Palace (admission 6d.) is the old
Palace of the Scotch Kings. The most in-
teresting rooms shown are those which were
inhabited by Marie Stuart. Adjoining it the
magnificent ruins of Holyrood Abbey.

Arthur's Seat should now be ascended.

University (built 1789-1835, 1,450 students),
and Museum of Science and Art, similar to
that at South Kensington, behind it. Grey-
friars' Cemetery, with monuments of IOO
Protestant martyrs, of Allan Ramsay and
other celebrities; Royal Infirmary and "the
Meadows," a public playground (on its further
side, in Morningside, the house in which
Napier, the inventor of logarithms, was born) ;
Heriofs Hospital, founded by the goldsmith of
James I., and built by Inigo Jones, 1628-60;
Grassmarket. Back to Princes-street.

Canton Hill, with observatory, Nelson Tower
(admission 3d.), the unfinished National
Monument, &c. ; down to the High School
and Burns' Monument; walk through the
principal streets and squares of the new town
(St. Andrew Square, with Lord Melville's
Monument ; Charlotte-square, with Prince
Albert's Monument ; Royal Circus ; Moray
Place) ; then over Dean Bridge, which spans
the valley of the Water of Leith, into the
suburb of Dean (the quarries of Craigleith,
which have supplied most of the building
material used in the construction of the new
town are I \ miles from the bridge.) Back to
Princes-street.

Tram to Donaldsons Hospital, an asylum
for deaf and mutes and orphans (Playfair,
architect), and back.

Lcitky the port of Edinburgh, may also be
visited by Tram.

EXCURSIONS. To Rosslyn (Rail to Haw-
thorndon, 1 1 miles; through Hawthorndon
Park to Rosslyn Church, I mile, and Castle ;
back by rail). To Dalkeith (with Castle of
Duke of Buccleugh). These places can be
visited on the same day, a Wednesday or
Saturday being preferable, because the Castle
and Park of Dalkeith are open to the public I
only on these days.

I3TH DAY. ABBOTSFORD.

Edinburgh to Galashiels (30 miles) by j
rail. Borthwick Castle is passed on the !
303

road. Galashiels, 10,312 inhabitants, is a
manufacturing town on the Gala.

Abbotsford, the old residence of Sir
Walter Scott, is 2 miles from Galashiels.
The house is shown to strangers (gratuity).

Back to Galashiels and by rail to
Melrose, (ruins of a magnificent abbey,
built since 1326), thence, either by rail
or road (4 miles) to Dryburgh Abbey.
Sir Walter Scott's tomb is pointed out
here. Back to Edinburgh by rail.

Pedestrians may walk from Galashiels to
Abbotsford, and thence to Melrose and Dry-
burgh (n miles), or a fly may be engaged at
Galashiels for Dryburgh and back ; (los. 6d.,
including driver).

I4TH DAY. EDINBURGH THROUGH THE
TROSSACHS TO LOCH LOMOND.

By starting from Edinburgh at 8.45 a.m.,
Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, may be reached
at 4.10 p.m. It is advisable to proceed from
Edinburgh to Stirling on the previous evening.

EDINBURGH TO STIRLING, 34 miles in
i hour 1 5 minutes. Express train stops
at Polmont Junction and Larbert. Lin-
lithgoiu, the capital of the county named
after it, is passed before, and Falkirk,
immediately beyond Polmont Junction.
Near Falkirk are the Carron iron works.

STIRLING (Golden Lion), 14,279 inhab-
itants, on the river Forth, is celebrated on
account of its Castle, which is shown to
visitors (gratuity).

From its walls we look upon the field of
Bannockburn, where Bruce defeated Edward
II., in 1314 ; the tower which disfigures a hill
near the castle is dedicated to the memory of
Wallace, who defeated the English near
Stirling, in 1297, but was subsequently sur-
rendered to his enemies, and executed at
London.

STIRLING TO CALLANDER, railway, 16
miles in i hour. Cross the Forth and
proceed through a fertile vale to Bridge of
Allan (Royal Hotel), a favourite watering
place. Callander (M'Gregor's), at the
confluence of Teith and Leny is a favorable
station for exploring the Highlands.

CALLANDER TO LOCH LOMOND (Inver-
snaid), 22 miles, of which 13^ by coach,
8)4 by steamer, in 4^ hours, allowing an
hour's stay at the Trossachs for dinner.
Our road leads up the valley of the Leny,
past Lochs Venachar and Achray to the

304

55.-NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

Trossachs Hotel. Loch Katrine is within
a mile from here. It supplies Glasgow
with water, at its upper end Stronachlachar
Hotel, Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, is 5
miles further.

I5TH DAY. LOCH LOMOND, GLASGOW.

A day should be devoted to Loch
Lomond, the finest and largest of the
Scotch lakes. At Inversnaid take a boat
to Ardlui Pier, at the upper end of the
lake ; walk thence to the Inverarnan
Hotel, in glen Falloch ; return south
\vith next boat, which conveys you to
Balloch, at lower end of lake, whence the
railway takes you to Glasgow in less than
an hour. The entire journey, from the
head of Loch Lomond to Glasgow,
occupies about 3^ hours.

Ben Lomond, 3, 192 feet, can be ascended
easily in a couple of hours, from Rowardcnnan,
the second pier to the south of Inversnaid.

BALLOCH TO GLASGOW, 20 miles in
l hour. The rail follows the Leven,
through which the waters of Loch Lomond
discharge themselves into the Clyde. At
its mouth, Dumbarton, with castle. Near
the next station (Bowling) a monument to
Henry Bell and Dunglas Castle. Through
a Tunnel into Glasgow station (near
George-square).

GLASGOW (Queen's, Crown ; Cabs : a
mile or 15 minutes is.) 547,538 inhabitants,
is the great manufacturing and commercial
town of Scotland. There are immense
cotton factories and iron works, and Clyde
built steamers are famous throughout the
world.

Walk through the Town :St. Georges
Square and its monuments and mean houses ;
tram to High-street and up it to Cathedral,
(nave 1133, choir 1240, central tower 225 feet,
the crypt is worth seeing) ; close to the Cathe-
dral are the Necropolis (John Knox's monu-
ment), and the Infirmary^) ; down High-street
(old College buildings in it, now Railway-
station) ; to the Cross, the centre of the Old
Town (equestrian statue of William III.);
Tower of the old Tolbooth or Prison at corner ;
Tron Church with its projecting tower, close by
in Argyle-street) ; down the Salt-market to the
Clyde (the Green with Nelson column, and
Court of Justice).

Along Clyde to the lowest bridge and the
Broomiela-,.v-quay, Buchanan-street, Bank, Ex-
change, St. George's-square.

305

Tram' to West-end Park, laid out by Sir
Joseph Paxton ; on Gilniore Hill, adjoining it,
the new University Buildings (Sir Gilbert Scott,
architect).

I6TH DAY. GLASGOW TO OB AN.

GLASGOW TO ARDRISHAIG (steamer),
in 5^ hours. Down the Clyde with its
numerous ship-building yards ; past Dum-
barton and Dunglas Castles, to Port
Glasgow, the old port, and Grccnock, a
town of 57,821 inhabitants. The boat
then crosses the Firth of Clyde, lands
passengers at Dunoon, Innellan and
Rothesay, the capital of the Isle of Bute ;
and passes through the Kylcs of Bute,
which separate that island from the main
land, into Loch Fyne. We cross over to
Tarbert, a fishing village, and then proceed
up the Loch to Ardrishaig, at the entrance
to the Crinan Canal, which cuts through
the neck of the peninsula of Cantire.

ARDRISHAIGH TO OB AN, by way of
Loch Awe, in 7 hours. Coach to Ford, at
the upper end of Loch Awe, one of the
most picturesque Lochs in Scotland, 23
miles in length. Steamer to Brander
Pier, at the lower end of the Loch.
Coach, to Oban (20 miles), down the
valley of the Awe to Banawe on Loch
Etive, an inlet of the Sea, and along
the latter, past Dunstaffnage Castle, to
Oban.

OBAN CGreat Western and Caledonian
Hotels,), lies on a bay of Loch Linnhe.
Dunolly Castle (i> miles), and Dun-
staffnage Castle (3 miles in the same
direction), should be visited from it.

Instead of going by way of Loch Awe, tourists
may proceed to Oban by steamer direct, through
the Crinan canal (from Ardrishaig in 10 hours).

IJTH DAY.STAFFA AND IONA.

A charming trip by steamer, occupying
12 hours. We pass round the island of
Mull, and tourists are allowed time to
explore Fingal's and the other caves on
Staffa, and the ecclesiastical ruins on
lona.

St. Columban, an Irishman, settled on lona
in 565, and carried on from it his missionary
labours amongst the Picts. The existing ruins
da;e no further back than the I2th century.
306

55-NORTH OP ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

l8TH DAY. OBAN TO BANAVIE.

Steamer to Corpach, at the head of
Loch Linnhe, and then by omnibus to
Banaire ( i mile) ; or as follows :

OBAN TO BALLACHULLISH (steamer).
Up Loch Linnhe and Loch Leven, an
arm of it.

BALLACHULLISH TO GLENCOE and
back (coach, 4 hours there and back),
Glencoe is one of the most famous spots
in Scotland. It is the reputed birthplace
of Ossian, and has attached to it the
memory of the infamous massacre of the
clan of the Macdonalds by the Camp-
bells.

BALLACHULISH TO BANAVIE (12 miles),
either by steamer, coach or on foot. Fort
William is passed on the road. It was
built by William III. to curb the High-
landers.

Ben Nevis, 4,406 feet, is usually ascended
from Banavie (in 3^ hours). A guide indi-
spensable, unless the weather is clear.

IQTH DAY. BANAVIE TO INVERNESS.

60 miles in 14 hours (including stop-
pages). The route leads through the
Caledonian Canal, which connects Loch
Linnhe with the Moray Firth and was
constructed between 1803-47 at an expense
of ^1,256.000. The valley or depression
through which it passes is called Glenmore,
and in it are three lakes (Lochs Lochy,
Arkaig and Ness), connected by the
canal. The largest of these is Loch Ness,
and near it are the celebrated Falls of
Foyers, (the steamer stops to enable tour-
ists to visit them).

INVERNESS (Station Hotel, Union
Hotel), 14,510 inhabitants, is the capital
of the Highlands, but offers little of
interest in other respects.

20TH DAY. INVERNESS TO ABERDEEN.

108 miles in 5^ hours. The route lies
across the plains of M oray shire,and through
the hills of Banff and Aberdeen. The more
interesting stations are : Culloden (defeat
of Charles Stuart, 1745) ; Nairn, 3,751
inhabitants, within 5 miles of Cawdor
Castle, in which Macbeth is said to have
murdered King Duncan ; Forres, 3,959
inhabitants ; Elgin, 7,445 inhabitants,
capital of Morayshire, with ruins of a
Cathedral.

307

ABERDEEN (Royal Hotel, City Hotel),
88,189 inhabitants, at the mouth of the
Dee, is the third town in Scotland, and
may boast of numerous houses built of
granite. Spacious Docks. Export of
granite and salmon.

Walkthrough the Town: Union- street, with
West and East Churches and Trades Hall ;
Marischall College (founded 1593, the existing
building erected in 1837, Museum) ; Castle-
street with Cross (1686) and Town-hall (1730) ;
Old Aberdeen, one mile to the north of Aber-
deen, on the Don (' brig of Don') with Kin^s
College (observe chapel), and Cathedral (1366-
1530.

2IST DAY. ABERDEEN TO BRJEMAR.

ABERDEEN TO BALLATER, 43 miles by
rail, in 2# hours. The line leads up the
left bank of the Dee as far as Banchory,
then leaves the Dee, and only returns to
it at Adoyne. We pass through a tunnel,
and perceive in the distance the pictur-
esque mountains of the Upper Dee valley.
Ballaler (Invercauld Arms), is a small
village with a mineral spring.

BALLATER TO BR/EMAR, 17 miles by
coach, in 2)4 hours. We pass Abergeldie
Castle (property of the Prince of Wales),
and Balmoral (the Highland seat of Her
Majesty). We cross the Dee by Inver-
cauld Bridge, 5 miles above Balmoral,
and soon afterwards arrive at Castlcton
of Brtzmar (Invercauld and Fife Arms), a
straggling highland village at the junction
of the Dee and Cluny.

The Lochnaar, 3,770 feet, and Ben Mulch
Dhni, 4,295 feet, are frequently ascended from
here, the former in 5 hours (descent 3 hours),
the latter in 7^ hours.

22ND DAY. BR^EMAR TO BLAIR ATHOLH.

Pony with guide, 303. ; two ponies, 50?..

BR/EMAR TO GLEN DEE, 10 miles,
(carriage road) up the Valley of the Dee,
past the Falls of Corrymulzie.

Glen Dee to Forest Lodge of the D it/-
of AtJiole, 10 miles (bridle path). Fiv.,-
miles to water parting between Dee and
Tay, and then down the valley of the Tilt,
and across its impetuous tributary, the
Tarff.

Forest Lodge to Blair A thole, 10 miles,
(carriage road). Still clown the Tilt.
308

55.-NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

Blair A thole (Athole Arms), with a
castle of the Duke of Athole, lies at the
junction of the Tilt and Jarry.

23RD DAY. BLAIR ATHOLE TO GLASGOW.

BLAIR ATHOLE TO PERTH, 35 miles,
(railway) in i X hours. The line takes us
down the valleys of Jarry, Tummel and
Tay, and past the stations of Killiecrankie,
Pitlochry, Ballinluig, Guay and Dalyuise,
to Dunkeld, a picturesque village on the
Tay, with large park of the Duke of
Athole, in which are the ruins of a cathe-
dral.

Pedestrians should walk from Blair Athole,
through the famous Pass of Killiecrankie to
Pitlochry (7 miles) ; if they extend their walk
to Loch Tummel, the whole distance to be
walked will be 1 8 miles.

PERTH (British Hotel), 25,606 inhabi-
tants, an old town on the Tay. Objects
of interest : St. John's church ; Marshall
building near bridge (Antiquarian museum
and library); Monument of Sir Walter
Scott.

Excursions to Scone Palace, 2| miles above
Perth ; or to Kinnoul Hill, 3 miles.

PERTH TO GLASGOW, 60 miles, railway,
in 2 hours. The journey is by no means
interesting. About half-way we pass
Stirling (see I4th day).

24TH DAY. GLASGOW TO CARLISLE AND
KESWICK.

GLASGOW TO CARLISLE, 104 miles in
3 hours. We cross the coal and iron
district of Lanarkshire. The country, at
first uninteresting, improves as we approach
Carstairs Junction.

From here branch lines to Edinburgh and
to Lanark (near which the celebrated water-
falls of the Clyde.)

The line then follows the Clyde and its
tributary, the Elvan, upwards as far as the
water-parting, beyond Elvan-foot, and
then descends the picturesque Annandale
to Beattock. The country thence as fai-
ns Carlisle is exceedingly picturesque.
At Gretna Green (at one time celebrated
for its run-away matches), we cross the
Scotch frontier, and soon afterwards
arrive at Carlisle.

CARLISLE (County Hotel), 31,049 in-
habitants, picturesquely situated on the

309

j Eden, is a very old town, and during the
! middle ages was an important frontier
fortress against the Scotch. In the i8th
century the citizens sided with the Stuarts,
j but the Duke of Cumberland captured
j the town (i745) and cruelly punished it.
The sights include the Castle, with Nor-
man Keep, a small Cathedral and the
Court House (Smirke).

CARLISLE TO PENRITH, 17 miles in
30 minutes, through the valley of the
Peteril.

Near Penrith station the ruins of a Castle,
and north of it Penrith Beacon, from which
a fine view.

PENRITH TO KESWICK, 18 miles in
50 minutes. At Threlkeld Station the
narrow valley of St. John's opens on the
left.

2$TH DAY. KESWICK AND BORROWDALE.

KESWICK, 2,777 inhabitants, is the chief
town of the lake district of Cumberland,
at the foot of the Skiddaw, and close to
the Derivent-water.

A model of the Lake District in the Town
Hall. Southey, the poet, died at Greta Hall
(near Bridge), in 1844.

The Skiddaw, 3,058 feet, can be
ascended in 2 hours.

BORROWDALE should be visited under
any circumstances. Follow the eastern
shore of Derwent- water to Grange (3^
miles), at the entrance of the valley, and
ascend the latter (12 miles), as far as
Seatollar (jj4 miles from Keswick) or,
better still, to the Sty Head, 1,450 feet,
which leads into the Wastdale and
Wastwaten, Carriage road throughout
and several inns.

26T1I DAY. WINDERMERE.

KESWICK TO AMBLESIDE on the
Windermere, 17 miles (Coach in 2 hours).
5 miles to lower end of the Thtrlemere ;
along this lake to the Dunmail Raise, a
pass which separates Cumberland and
Westmoreland, and iy 2 miles beyond it
to the Nag's Head, an Inn (9 miles from
Keswick).

Mount Hel-vellyn, 3,055 feet, may be as-
cended from here in less than an hour.

We pass Grasmere (Wordsworth died
here) and reach Ambleside at the upper
end of the Windermere.
310

55.-NORTH OP ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

\VIXDERMERE is ii miles in length,
and a steamer performes the journey
from end to end in I ^ hours, thrice daily.
It stops at Low Wood, Bowness, Ferry,
and Lake Side ('Newby Bridge). We
leave the boat at the Ferry, walk thence
along the western side of the lake to Lake
Side (6 miles) and return by Boat to
Bowness^ which is within a mile of the
railway station at Windermere.
27x11 DAY. WINDERMERE TO LIVERPOOL.

WINDERMERE TO KENDAL, 8 miles in
20 minutes. Pedestrians should walk as
far as Staveley Station (3 miles from
Bowness).

KENDAL, 13,446 inhabitants, is an
interesting old town. Underbarrow Scar,
1% miles from the town should be
ascended.

KENDAL TO LIVERPOOL, 65 miles in
2 hours 40 minutes. At Burton-in-Kendal
we cross from Cumberland into Lancashire.
Morecombe Bay is seen to the right.
Carufortk) then over the river Lune to
Lancaster, 17,245 inhabitants, the capital
of the county, with an old castle built by
John of Gaunt. The spurs of the Pennine
chain are seen on the left. Preston,
85427 inhabitants, near the mouth of
the Ribble is one of the chief seats of the
cotton industry. The following stations
(Burscough junction, Ormskirk and
Sandhills) offer nothing of interest.
Liverpool (Tithe Barn Station, which is
^ of a mile from the station in Lime-
street, from which we depart for London
or Manchester.)

28TH DAY. LIVERPOOL.

LIVERPOOL (Hotels : North- Western
Railway, Adelphi, Washington. Cabs, is.
a mile).

Liverpool, next to London, is the most
important sea-port of the United Kingdom.
The town owns 2427 sea-going vessels, inclusive
of 585 steamers, and no less than 35 vessels
enter the port daily. The annual imports
exceed in value .84,000,000, the exports,
,107,000,000, and the Docks, which extend for
5 miles along the banks of the Mersey, cover an
area of 500 acres. In 1700, Liverpool only had
7,000 inhabitants, but the introduction of the
cotton industry caused the town rapidly to
increase in wealth and population, and its
population now exceeds half-a-million souls.

Walk through the town ; Lime-street ; close
by St. George's Hall (built 1841-55, by II.
Elmes) the finest edifice in the town ; Nelson
Column ; Brown Institute (National History
Museum, paintings, china, ivory carvings, and
free reading room) ; Walker Fine Art Gallery
(paintings) ; Dale-street, past the Municipal
Offices to the Town Hall and the Exchange
(by F. H. Wyatt) ; down to the docks (St.
Nichoks, the oldest church in the town, is
close by).

A Tramway leads along the whole of the
Docks, and from the Landing Stage there is
a steam Ferry to Birkenhead, opposite Liver-
pool. Cross and re-cross (20 minutes).

Custom House; Sailors' Home ; St. John's
Market ; Lime-street.

Collegiate Institution ; Infirmary and Luna-
tic Asylum ; St. James's Cemetery (Huskin-
son's Statue, by Gibson) ; down to the Docks ;
tramway to the New Park, the finest in
Liverpool.

Back to the tramway, and along its whole
length to the vicinity of Stanley Park ; omni-
bus back to town.

2QTH DAY. MANCHESTER.

LIVERPOOL TO MANCHESTER, 31 miles
in 50 minutes. The line passes through
a manufacturing district (at Patricroft
Nasmyth's celebrated foundry). We ar-
rive at the Victoria Station.

MANCHESTER (Hotels : The Palatine,
Queen's ; Royal. Cabs : No fixed fares.
Amusements : Three Theatres ; Alexandra
Music Hall ; Bellevue Gardens).

Manchester, including Salford, has
480,000 inhabitants, and is the centre of
the cotton industry.

Walk through the town : Victoria Station ;
Assize Courts (one of the finest modern Gothic
buildings, A. Waterhouse, architect) ; Vic-
toria Station ; ChetJiam College (founded in
1651, and established in the oldest building in
Manchester ; Exchange (built 1866-74) ; Old
Town Hall ; Albert-square, where the mag-
nificent New Town Hall (A. Waterhouse,
architect), and the Memorial Hall of the
Congregationaltsts ; Mosley-street ( Royal Insti-
tution, with collection of paintings) ; Royal
Infirmary; Portland -street warehouses Mos-
ley-street, corner of Oxford-street.

Hence by omnibus to Victoria Park, and
back.

Free Trade .fo//'(built 1856, on the site of
an older building, in which the Anti-Corn
Law League, under the leadership of Cobden

312

53. MID-ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES.

.faid Bright held its meetings) ; Oiwi's College
.(the leading educational institution of the
town) ; cross the Irwell, which separates
Manchester from Salford, close to the New
Bailey (a cellular prison, founded by Howard) ;
Peel Park, in Salford (museum) ; omnibus
back to Exchange.

Omnibus to Alexandra Park (Aquarium)
and back.

30TH DAY. MANCHESTER TO LONDON.

Midland Raihvay (station in London
Road), 1 86 miles in 4 hours 50 minutes.
The Express only stops at Marple, Mat-
lock Bath, Derby and Trent.

MANCHESTER TO DERBY, 58 miles, in
i% hours. The line leads us through
the "Peak of Derbyshire," one of the
most picturesque districts of England.
The places most deserving a visit are
Castleton, Buxton, the valley of the Wye,
Chatsworth and Matlock ; but if limited
to a single day, the traveller must be
content with paying a flying visit to
Buxton, Chatsworth or Matlock.

At Marple the line crosses the Etherow
on a high viaduct. BUXTON is a favourite
watering-place, from which Axe Edge,
one of the highest summits of the Peak
( 1,8 1 8 feet), may be ascended in about one
hour. Poole's cavern, with stalactites,
is passed on the road.

Rowsley is the nearest station to
CHATSWORTH (2 miles), the famous Park

of the Duke of Devonshire. The castle
was built by Christopher Wren (1688-
1706) and the Park was improved by
Sir Joseph Paxton. Art treasures , water-
works, &c., open daily, 1 1 till 4.

MATLOCK, a watering-place, delightfully
situated. Visit Cromford, a village i mile
to the south of the Baths, and the Stonnis
near it (fine prospect) , also the Masson
Low (i, 600 feet), west of the town.

DERBY, 49,810 inhabitants, in the
fertile valley of the Derwent, was given
by William the conqueror to his son ;
Peveril of the Peak, All Saints Church
(tower of time of Henry VII.), and the
Town Halls hould be observed. The first
silk manufacture in England was estab-
lished here, in 1718.

DERBY TO LONDON, 128 miles in 3
hours 10 minutes. At Trent Junction
we cross the river Trent into Nottingham-
shire. Lougborough) 11,588 inhabitants,
is the first station in the county of
Leicester. We pass Ouorndon (famous
pack of hounds), and Leicester, 95,220
inhabitants, the chief seat of the Hosiery
manufacture, with remains of a castle
built by John of Gaunt (now Assize Hall).
At Market Harbortf we cross into North-
amptonshire, at Irchester into Bedford-
shire. The principal stations are Bedford,
16,850 inhabitants ; Luton ; and St. Albans
(see page 279), in Hertfordshire. London
(Pancras Station).

56.-MID-ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES.

3IST DAY. LONDON TO OXFORD.

Fully described in page 282.

32ND DAY. OXFORD TO COVENTRY.

OXFORD TO LEAMINGTON, 40 miles
in \]i hours. Express trains only stop
at fianbury, famous for its ale and cakes.
Soon afterwards we enter the county of
Warwickshire and stop at Leamington.

LEAMINGTON (Regent's Hotel, Crown)
20,910 inhabitants, the most fashionable
spa in the kingdom, with Pump Room,
Jcphson's Gardens and Parade, all near

the river Learn, which flows through the
town into the Avon.

WARWICK (Warwick Arms) 10,986
inhabitants, is a far more interesting place
than Leamington, and can be reached by
omnibus or cab (distance 2 miles). The
Castle is shown daily between 8 an I
10.30 a.m. (gratuity) and contains most
valuable works of art. Also observe the
old market-hall, now used as a Museum,
St. Mary's Church (i5th century ;
monument of an Earl of Warwick) and
Lord Leicester's Hospital, close to one of
the old ates of the town.

56.-MID-ENGLAND AND NORTH WALES.

Stratford-on-Avon, the birth-place of Shake-
speare, can be reached from Warwick in about
half an hour by rail. A pleasant drive by road
(8 miles).

KENILWORTH, 4^ miles to the north
of Warwick. The carriage-road leads past
Guy's Clift (also rail from Milverton
Station, between Warwick and Leaming-
ton, in 1 5 minutes). The castle was given
by Queen Elizabeth to her favourite, the
Earl of Leicester, who entertained his
Royal Mistress here on three occasions.

KENILWORTH TO COVENTRY, 5 miles
in 15 minutes.

COVENTRY (King's Head, Godiva)
37,670 inhabitants, an interesting old
town, on the Sherbourne. Observe St.
Michael's Church (tower 1373-95) ; Trinity
Church ; Guildhall ; remains of old town-
walls and numerous old buildings.
Watches and Ribbons are the chief
articles manufactured now.

33RD DAY. BIRMINGHAM.

COVENTRY TO BIRMINGHAM, 18 miles in
45 minutes (New-street Station).

BIRMINGHAM (Queen's, Hen and
Chickens, Great Western Hotel) 343,787
inhabitants, a city of comparatively
modern growth, famous for its manufacture
of guns, needles, pens, plated goods,
watches, jewellery, buttons, c.

Walk through the town : New-street Sta-
tion ; Exchange-, Town Hall (built 1832-35),
and near it Science College (with Shakespeare's
Library) ; Municipal Buildings, Midland
Institute, and Queen's College.

Take a tram to the Five Ways, Islington
(statue of Sturge), and back.

Snow Hill Station, Bull- street, High- street,
Bull Ring, Nelson's Column, St. Martin's
Church (partly 1 3th century), and Market Hall,
past King Edivard's Grammar School, back to
New-street Station.

34TH DAY. BIRMINGHAM TO LLANGOLLEN.

75 miles in 3 hours. By leaving Birming-
ham at 8.30 a.m., travellers will be able to stay
two hours at Wellington and three hours at
Shrewsbury, and yet reach Llangollen at
4.35 p.m.

BIRMINGHAM TO WELLINGTON, 31
miles in about an hour. Between Bir-
mingham and Wolverhampton, 68,290
inhabitants, we pass through one of the

most important iron districts in England,
Then follow the stations of Shifnal, Oak-
engate and Wellington, in Shropshire.

Near the latter, the Wrekin, an isolated hill,
affording an exceeding fine prospect. It can be
visited conveniently in the course of an hour.

WELLINGTON TO SHREWSBURY, 10
miles in 20 minutes. Shrewsbury (Raven
Hotel), 23,406 inhabitants, the capital of
Shropshire, is an interesting old city.
Observe : Ruins of Norman Castle ;
Market Hall (1595) ; Holy Cross Church
(Norman), Antiquarian Museum.

SHREWSBURY TO RUABON, 26 miles in
45 minutes. We leave Shropshire beyond
Gobowen Junction, and at Chirk, at the
mouth of the charming valley of the
Ceiriog, we find ourselves in Wales.
Soon afterwards we cross the river Dee
on a high viaduct, and reach Ruabon.

RUABON TO LLANGOLLEN, 8 miles. The
line follows the banks of the Dee, which
flows through the delightful valley of
Llangollen.

We strongly advise toleave the train at Chirk,
and to perform the remainder of the journey on
foot (7 miles to Llangollen), or at all events to
return to Ruabon (on following day) in a fly.

Llangollen (the Hand), is a small town
of 2,798 inhabitants.

Excursions: Castcll Dinas Bran (old British
entrenchment) I mile to north ; Moel Geraint,
or Barber's HUl, I mile to west ; Valle Crucis
Abbey, \\ mile above Llangollen ; and Eliseg-s
Pillar, half-mile further.

35TH DAY. LLANGOLLEN TO CHESTER.

25 miles in I hour 35 minutes. Down
the valley of Llangollen as far as Ruabon,
(junction), then towards the north in the
direction of Chester. We pass IVrexhain,
a busy manufacturing and mining town
of Denbighshire, and soon afterwards
enter upon the Royal Vale of Chester,
bounded in the west by the hills of Wales.

CHESTER (Queen's, Grosvenor, Falcon)
is one of the most ancient cities of
England, and abounds in interesting
remains of ancient times. The two prin-
cipal streets intersect each other at right
angles.

Walk through the town : St. John-the-
Baptist's (built 1057) ; East Gate and along
3,6

5 6. -MID-EN GLAND AND NORTH WALES.

walls past Phoenix Tower, Northgate, Mor-
gan's Mound, Water Tower (now a museum),
to the Water gate (beneath us the " Roodee,"
the drill-ground of the Romans, now race-
course) to the Castle (only a few remains of the
ancient buildings now exist, past Newgate,
back to the East-gate.

Into the interior of the fown : St. Peter's
(it occupies the site of the ancient Praetorium);
along Watergate-street (many ancient houses) ;
back to St. Peter's ; Northgate-street to
Cathedral (i4th and i6th century, with chapter
house of I3th century) ; again back to St.
Peter's; Bridge-street.

EATON HALL (Duke of Westminster), a
magnificent mansion, is 3 miles to the south of
the town. (Tickets to view may be had at the
hotels).

3&TH DAY. CHESTER TO CAPEL CURIG.

CHESTER TO CONWAY JUNCTION, 43
miles in i hour, 50 minutes. On leaving
Chester we cross the Dee on a high
viaduct, and enter Flintshire in Wales.
" Sealand," a low plain gained from the
sea, on the right, and then along the
estuary of the Dee to Flint, (castle ;
Hawarden, the country residence of Mr.
Gladstone, is seen to the left). Near
Holywell, a miraculous spring, much
resorted to in former times. We cross
the marsh of Gwespyr, at the mouth of
the Dee, and then turn to the west. Rhyl,
is a small watering-place at the mouth of
the valley of the Clwyd. The marsh of
Rhuddlan, where King Offa of Mercia
annihilated Caradoc's Welsh army, on the
left. From Llandudno junction there
is a branch line to

Llandudno (3 miles), a favourite watering
place close to the Great Orme's Head.

CONWAY, 2,620 inhabitants, is an old
walled city with castle, at the mouth of
the valley of the Con way.

CONWAY TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 16 miles
(by rail). The valley of Con way is one of
the most delightful in North Wales.
Steamers sometimes ascend the river as
far as Trefriw, 10 miles above Con way,
and they are preferable to the railway.

BETTWS-Y-COED TO CHAPEL CURIG,
6 miles (carriage-road) up the picturesque
valley of the Llygwy.

3'7

37TH DAY. SNOWDON.

CAPEL CURIG TO LLANBERIS, 10 miles
(carriage road) up the valley past the
Mymbyr lakes to " Gorphwysfa " (i.e. place
of rest) on the height of the pass of
Llamberis, and down the pass, past
Llanberis village and Llyn Beris lake to
the Dolbadern Inn, or Victoria Hotel.

SNOWDON, 3,571 feet, can be ascended
from either of the hotels, in 2^ hours.
Pedestrians should descend through the
valley of Crom Dyll and pass the mountain
lakes Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw, to
Gorphywysfa (9 miles), returning thence
to Llamberis and Dolbadern (5 miles.)

38TH DAY. LANBERIS TO HOLYHEAD.

Start from Llanberis at 8.50 a.m., for
Carnarvon ; wait there nearly 3 hours for
the next train for Bangor, which is thus
reached at 1.5 p.m. ; start from Bangor at
4.7 p.m., for Menai Bridge; stay thereuntil
5,20 p.m., and proceed by train to Holyhead;
sleep on board the mail steamer, which starts
at 3.5 a.m., and reaches Kingstown in 4 hours.

LLANBERIS TO CARNARVON, 8 miles in
30 minutes. Carnarvon (Royal Hotel),
9,449 inhabitants, is an old town near the
southern entrance of the Menai straits,
which separate the mainland of Wales
from Anglesey. Ruins of a Castle, built
1284-1320 ; Museum with Roman anti-
quities.

CARNARVON TO BANGOR, 8 miles in
25 minutes. We pass the Britannia
Railway Bridge (constructed 1846-50 by
R. Stephenson, 1513 feet in length,
supported on two piers, of which that
in the centre is 199 feet in height), and
the Menai Suspension Bridge (built by
Telford, 1820-26, central opening 550 feet
wide, piers 153 feet in height.)

BANGOR (Castle), 7,722 inhabitants, near
the northern entrance of Menai straits, is
the oldest episcopal seat in Wales. The
Cathedral is small. Penrhyn Castle, close
to the town, should be inspected, if open.
Menai Bridge, is only 2 miles to the south
of the town.

BANGOR TO HOLYHEAD, 25 miles in
53 to 75 minutes. We cross Menai Straits
by the Britannia Bridge, cross Anglesey,
318

57.-IRELAND.

and reach Holyhcad, 5,916 inhabitants.
The town is indebted for its name to an
ancient monastery founded in the 6th
century, in the midst of a Roman Camp.
The Harbour of Refuge, constructed

1847-73 by J. M. Rendel and Sir John
Hawksley, is deserving inspection, and
a stay of a few hours at Holyhead, such
as is provided for by us, will not be
regretted.

57.-IRELAND.

HOLYHEAD TO DUBLIN. Mail boats
start daily at 1.55 p.m. and at 3.5 a.m.
for Kingstown (63 miles in 4 to 5 hours),
from which the railway takes us in twenty
minutes to Dublin. Good beds are
provided. The steamers of the London
and North Western Railway start daily at
i.3oa.m. (Mondays excepted) and at 5 p.m.
(Sundays excepted) conveying passen-
gers direct to Dublin.

39TII DAY. DUBLIN.

Hotels : Shelbourne, Gresham, Hibernian ;
cars, is. 6d. an hour or 6d. a drive. Amuse-
ments : Three Theatres, Portobello Gardens,
Zoological Gardens, Botanical Gardens, Winter
Gardens, several Music Halls.

Walk through the toivn : Sackville-street
(Nelson's Column, ascend) ; Post-office ; cross
Carlisle Bridge ; College Green (Bank and
Trinity College).

7Yuiity College was founded by Pope John
XXII., closed by Henry VIII., and re-opened
by Qaeen Elizabeth (1791). Students are
admitted now without reference to their reli-
gious belief. The main front was built by
Sir W. Chambers. The Bank of Ireland was
erected 1729-87, and the Irish Parliament sat
in it until 1802.

Up Dame-street to the City Hall (used as
an Exchange), and the Castle (its oldest part,
dates from the year 1411 ; the Vice Regal
Chapel and State Rooms are shown to
strangers).

DUBLIN, the capital of Leinster and of
all Ireland, stands at the mouth of the
the Liffey. Its public buildings are
numerous and impart to it somewhat of
the character of a capital, and its popu-
lation closely approaches 300,000. Dub-
lin Stout and Whisky are celebrated
throughout the world.

CJirist Church (built since 1190, is being
carefully restored by Henry Roe, Esq., at a

319

R aven i<.*>IX,

cost of j 200, ooo; St. Patrick's Cathedral
(mostly I4th century, restored by the late
Sir B. Guinness, Bart.) ; Stephen's Green
(Industrial Museum on east side).

J'lxhibiton Palace (in it \vas held the Inter-
national exhibition of 1853. Collection of
paintings, winter garden, concerts, &c.

[siiistcr House (seat of the Dublin. Royal
Society, with Agricultural Museum, &c.) ;
320

57. IRELAND.

Merrion-street (Wellington was born in No.
24) ; Merrion- square (National Gallery and
National History Museum).

Down to the river : Cross to the North
Wall, and up the left bank of the Liffey, past
the Custom House, and the "Four Courts,"
and the barracks to the Phoenix Park (from
Vice-Regal Lodge, the finest view of Dublin) ;
the building with a dome, beyond the river,
is Kilmainham Hospital, an institution similar
to Chelsea Hospital, in London). Leave Park
by the gate through which you entered, and
cross the Liffey by first bridge.

Steeven's Hospital; Grand Canal Docks;
Weaver's Hall (built 1 745, by a descendent of
one of the Huguenots, who introduced the
Poplin and silk manufacture into Dublin).

Cross Whitworth Bridge (close to "Four
Courts,") ; past St. Michan's Church (dry
vaults) to Nnvgate (four " United Irishmen "
executed in front of it in 1798) ; Linen Hall ;
King's Inn ; Rotunda at the top of Sackville-
street.

Excursions : Clondalkin, 5^ miles west of
Sackville-street, with a round Tower (Car,
there and back, 6s.) ; Glasnevin, 2 miles from
Sackville-street (Omnibus), with botanical
gardens and cemetery; Howth (9 miles by
rail), at the entrance of Dublin Bay).

4OTH DAY. DUBLIN TO CORK.

1 66 miles in 5 hours. The express train
only stops at Salins, Kildare, Portarlington,
Maryboro', Ballybrophy, Limerick Junction,
and Mallow Junction.

We pass Clondalkin, with its round
tower, soon after having left Dublin.
Mayn&oth) with its well-known Roman
Catholic College, stands 5 miles to the
right. The "Curragh" of Kildare is
crossed before we reach that town, which
may boast of numerous ecclesiastical ruins.
Soon afterwards we cross the river Barrow,
rind reach Portarlington. The Slieve
Bloom Mountains are seen in the distance.
Maryborough. At Ballybrophy, the line to
Limerick branches off. Cross the Suir,
pass Tcmplemore, a town founded by the
Templars, and enter Tipperary. The
Devil's Bit Mountains on the right. Pass-
ing down the valley of the Suir, we reach
Thurles and Goold's Cross.

If it is intended to visit CasJiel and its in-
teresting ruins (Round Tower, Norman Church,
Gothic Cathedral, Castle, Nunnery, Abbey),
we leave the train here ; drive over to Cashcl

3*1

8 miles), and thence to Tipperary ( 1 1 miles),
and proceed thence by rail to Limerick
Junction (z\ miles). This excursion requires
about 7 hours.

The Galty Mountains are seen on the
left. We reach Limerick Junction.
Kilmallock, one of the wealthiest towns
of Ireland in the i;th century, is a poor
village now. Charleville is the first
station in the county of Cork. We pass
now through a picturesque country, the
principal stations being Mallow and
Blarney.

4IST DAY. CORK.

Hotels .-Imperial, Hibernian. Cars, is. 6d.
an hour.

CORK, the capital of Munster, has
78,382 inhabitants, and occupies an island
formed by the river Lee, as well as the
slopes on both sides of it. Queenstown,
the port of Cork, is n miles below the
city.

Walk thmigh the towm : Custom-house,
South-wall, to Parliament Bridge ; back along
the river, past Trinity Church (built by Father
Matthew), to Anglesey Bridge ; St. Patrick's
Bridge and through St. Patrick's-street to the
Grand Parade; turn to the left and return
through Paul-street to the river (at the corner
the Cork Institution, with Antiquarian Mu-
seum) ; cross the bridge and proceed to Stan-
don Church; by nearest road back to the
Grand Parade and through Great George-street
(Court-house), to the Great Western-road and
the Mardyke; return and cross river into
Southern part of the town ; Roman Catholic
Cathedral (St. Fionn Bar) and Queen's College.

Excursions : Steamer from St. Patrick's
Bridge to Queenstown (il miles in li hours) ;
steamer to Passage (15 minutes), and back to
Cork by rail (15 minutes). Queenstown is the
harbour of Cork, one of the most commodious
in the United Kingdom ; Roche's Point, where
the American steamers land the mails, is 4
miles from Queenstown at the entrance to the
harbour ; another excursion may be made to
the famous Groves of Blarney, 5 miles from
Cork (car 2s. 6d.)

42ND DAY. CORK TO BANTRY.

60 miles in 6 hours, inclusive of delays.

CORK To DUNMANVVAY, 40 miles (rail-
way) in T-Yz hours. Through fertile
pasture-lands to Kinsale Junction, and
thence to Bandon, a town of 6,000 in-
322

57.-IRELATTD.

habitants, on a river of the same name.
The hills approach on both sides. We
reach D unman way.

DUNMANWAY TO BANTRY (carriage
road), 20 miles in 3 hours. Hilly country.
At Bantry a good hotel (Vickery's).

43RD DAY. BANTRY TO KILLARNEY.

BANTRY TO GLENGARIFF, 8 miles, by
boat or along the carriage road.

GLENGARIFF TO KILLARNEY, 38 miles
(carriage road). We cross the neck of
the peninsular which separates Bantry
Bay from the Kenmare river, (an inlet
of the sea, 19 miles), and then ascend to
a second pass from where the prospect
opens upon the hills and lakes of Killarney.

44TH DAY. KILLARNEY.

KILLARNEY is a poor place of 5,195
inhabitants, with a modern cathedral,
a workhouse and a lunatic asylum. The
lakes and verdant hills bounding them
form the great objects of attraction.

Hotels : Lake Hotel, on the lakes side, south
of the town ; Victoria, north-west of the town ;
Kenmare, near the town. Cars and Boats are
furnished by the hotel keepers at moderate
prices.

If the stay at Killarney be limited to a
single day, arrange with your landlord
for an excursion through the Gap ofDunloe,
(n miles in a carriage, 4 miles on-foot, or
on a pony, 13 miles by boat). Muckross
Abbey, which is about a mile to the south
of the Lake Hotel should also be visited.

If you are able to remain a second day
make an ascent of the Manger ton (2,754
feet).

45TH DAY. KILLARNEY TO KILRUSH.

57 miles in about 6 hours.

KILLARNEY TO TRALEE, 20 miles by
rail in i hour. Tralee, near the mouth of
the Lee, is a clean and busy town of 9,000
inhabitants.

TRALEE TO TARBET, 26 miles (carriage
road). The road leads through a lovely
country, portions of which are exceedingly
fertile. We pass through Listowel, on
the Feale (salmon), with a castle which
was captured by the English only in 1600,
and finally reach Tarbet, a small town on
the estuary of the Shannon.

323

TARBET TO KILRUSH, 11 miles by
steamer or rowing boat. Kilrush, (Van-
daleur Arms) is a favourite watering place
on a bay of the estuary of the Shannon.

A good carriage road leads from it to Kilkes
(8 miles) on the open Atlantic, where there are
several noted caverns.

Limerick maybe reached from Killarney by
rail in about 4 hours, by way of Mallow Junc-
tion and Charleville.

46TH DAY. KILRUSH TO LIMERICK.

50 miles in 4 hours.

KILRUSH TO FOYNES, 23^ miles, by
steamer in 2 hours. The boat only stops
at Tarbet. Foynes is a small town with
a good harbour.

FOYNES TO LIMERICK, 26 miles (rail),
in i hour 20 minutes. We pass Askeaton,
with the ruins of an abbey. A dare, with
ruins of an abbey, a castle and a monastery,
and St. Patrick's Well.

LIMERICK (Cruise's Hotel, George's
Hotel), 39,353 inhabitants, is one of the
oldest cities in Ireland, and after the
expulsion of the Danes, it became the
capital of the kings of Munster. King
John built a castle here in 1210, and
attracted English settlers, the town began
to flourish, but only for a time. In 1651
it was captured by Ireton, the Parlia-
mentary General, and in 1690, after a
valiant defence by General Ginkel. The
Catholics were guaranteed their ancient
rights, but Queen Anne felt justified in
setting aside this clause in the capitula-
tion, and Limerick is hence called the
" City of the violated treaty."

Walk through the town : Citv-hall, Custom-
house, across the Salmon Wear river into
English Town ; County Court-house, Protestant
Cathedral ( 1 5th century) ; ruins of King John's
Castle ; across Thomond bridge to the Treaty
Stone (of 1690) ; back to the Cathedral, Ex-
change, City Court-house ; across Baal's
bridge into Irish Town ; Catholic Cathedral,
County Prison, Perry-square in the New Town,
Corn Market, Linen- hall, George-street to
Richmond-place.

47TH DAY. LIMERICK TO KILLALOE.

17 miles, which may be performed by
rail in an hour. The beauties of the
Shannon, however, can hardly be appre-
ciated in this hurried manner.

57.-IRELAND.

A rowing boat may be hired at Baal's
bridge, Limerick, for Castle Connell,
(7 miles), near which are the Doonass
Falls.

Thence to Killaloe is 10 miles, along
the valley of the Shannon (rail or on foot.)
At Killaloe a boat may be hired for Tunis
Cealtra (9 miles), an island in Lough
Dergh, which is bounded here by pictu-
resque mountains.

48fH DAY. KILLALOE TO DUBLIN.

98 miles in about 6 hours, including a
forced delay at Nenagh.

We join the main line at Bird Hill
junction, 3 miles from Killaloe. Passing
between Arra and Silvermine mountains
we reach Nenagh, a small town in a
fertile district. Lough Dergh is on our
left, the Devil's Bit Mountains on the
right, far off. Roscrea, an ancient town,
with round tower, ruins of an abbey and
of a castle, &c. At Ballybrophy we reach
the main line from Cork to Dublin (see
4oth day).

49TH DAY. DUBLIN TO BELFAST.

113 miles in 3 hours twenty minutes.
Start from the Terminus in Amiens-street.

The hill of Howth is seen on the right.
At Malahide (oyster fishery) we cross an
inlet of the sea, and at Lusk another.
The line runs close to the sea for a con-
siderable distance. At Drogheda, 16,165
inhabitants, we cross the Boyne.

Drogheda was stormed by Cromwell in 1649,
and plundered, in revenge for the massacre of
100,000 Protestants. An Oblisk near it marks
the battle field of the Boyne, where William of
Orange beat the army of James II.

We lose sight of the sea for some time
until we reach Dundalk, 11,377 inhabi-
tants, a busy sea-port.

From Goragh Wood Junction there is a
branch line to Armagh, 8,946 inhabitants, an
ancient city, beautifully situated, with a
cathedral and many houses built with marble !
It can be reached in 45 minutes, and thence to
Belfast (35 miles) is a journey of i hours.

We pass Poyntz Pass, where the
English army was concentrated in 1688,
Scar-ja, Tanderagee, Portadown, and
reach Lurgan, 10,632 inhabitants. Lough
Neagh is on our left ; Lisburn, 9,326
inhabitants, where the linen manufacture

325

was first introduced by Huguenots, and
down the valley of the Lagan, to
Belfast

BELFAST (Hotels .-Imperial ; Linen
Hall). Cars, is. an hour. 17 1,394 inhabi-
tants, is the only town in Ireland the
population of which is on the increase.
Protestants are in the majority. It is the
centre of the Irish Linen Industry.

Walk through the town : Donegall-square
(Linen Hall in its centre) ; Donegall Place ;
High-street to the Albert Monument ; Custom
House and Donegall Quay ; Waring-street,
Donegall-street to the County Court ; Aca-
demical Institution and Museum of the Philo-
sophical Society (antiquities) at the top of
Wellington Place.

Tram to the Botanical Gatdens, near which
are the Queen's College, the Presbyterian College,
and the Methodist College. Tram back to
Donegall-square ; Theatre ; Town Hall.

Cave Hill, about 3 miles from the town,
should be ascended. From it a fine view over
the Bay of Belfast (Car to foot of hill).

DAY. GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.

If the tourist is able to expend 2 days upon
this journey he may proceed on the first day
to Portrush by rail, and thence by omnibus to
the Giant's Causeway (8 miles), and to Bally-
castle (II miles further). On the second day
he would proceed from Ballycastle to Larne
(14 miles) by omnibus, and thence by rail to
Belfast. Circular tickets for this trip are issued
at Belfast.

BELFAST TO PORTRUSH, 65 miles, in
3 hours. We follow the shore of Belfast
Lough as far as Carrickfergus Junction,
and then turn inland. At Antrim, 2,020
inhabitants, we reach Lough Neagh.
We pass Ballymena (flax mills), reach
the river Bann at Ballymoney, and follow
it as far as Coleraine, at its mouth.

From here a branch line to the interesting
old town of Londonderry (37 miles in 1 5 hours. ^

Portrush is the port of Coleraine.

PORTRUSH TO THE GIANT'S CAUSE-
WAY, 8 miles (omnibus). Tourists should
at least walk from the Causeway Hotel
as far as Port Noffer (which takes them
past the Wind Gap, the Giant's Wall, the
Causeway, the Giant's Gate-way, and the
Giant's Organ), and ascend thence by
the Shepherd's Walk. Fair pedestrians,
however, should follow the foot of the
326

57.-IBELAND.

cliffs, as far as Dunsevcrick Castle, and
return along their top to the Hotel. The
entire distance does not exceed 10 miles.
Guides may be had for 3^. 6d.

5 1ST DAY. BELFAST TO LONDON.

The following are the principal routes :

a. Rail to Lame ; steamer to Stranraer
(39 miles in 4 hours), rail to Carlisle and
thence to London. Total, 312 miles in 17
hours.

b. Belfast to Barrow-in-Furness by steamer,
to London by rail, in about 20 hours.

c. Belfast to Fleetwood by steamer ( 10 to 1 1
hours), thence to London by rail. The entire
journey occupies about 20 hours.

(I. Belfast to Liverpool (165 miles in 12

hours) by steamer ; thence to London by rail
(in 5 to 7 hours.

e. Belfast to Dublin, and Kingstown by
rail ; to Holyhead by steamer, to London by
j rail. The entire journey is performed in less
I than 16 hours.

We select the route by way of Liver-

j pool. The vessel steams down the

| Belfast Lough, passes the Isle of Man on

! the south, and reaches the intricate sand-

j banks off the Mersey at the Formby Light

Ship. Crosby Channel (8 miles), leads

thence to the mouth of the Mersey (New

Brighton on the right).

LIVERPOOL TO LONDON, 200 miles,
which the express performs in 5 hours,
only stopping at Runcorn, Crewe, Rugby,
and Willesden Junction.

327

3**

INDEX,

The letters and numerals in brackets indicate the Square -within -which the places mentioned
are situated on the Map of London accompanying this " Guide "

Abbotsford, 302.
Aberdeen, 308.

Academy (Royal) of Arts, 116.
Adelphi, 151.
Adelphi Terrace, 181.
Admiralty, 97.
Agricultural Hall, 35.
Albans (St.), 279.
Alexandra Palace, 274.
Albert Hall, 253 (Plan B, 7).

Embankment, 183 (Plan G, 7).

Memorial, in (Plan B, 7).
,, Bridge, 105.
All Saints, Margaret Street, 124.
All Hallows the Great, 184.
Aidershot, 294.
Ambassadors, Foreign, 44.
Ambleside, 311.
Amusements, 86.
Andrews (St.), 172.
Andrew (St.) by the Wardrobe, 179,

,, ,, Undershaft, 205.
Apartments, 12.
Apsley House, no.
Apostolic Church, 148.
Apothecaries Hall, 179.
Aquarium, Royal, 100 (Plan F, 7).
Argyll Rooms, 36.
Archery, 36.
Art Galleries, 42.
Army and Navy Club, xax.
Arts, Society of, 151.
Arundel Street, 155.
Armourers' Hall, 169.
Artillery Grounds, 176.
Archway, Holloway, 273.
Ardrishaig, 306.
Armagh, 325.

Athenaeum Club, 122.
Athletics, 36.
Austin Friars, 177.

Ballater, 308.

Balmoral, 308.

Bantry, 323.

Banqueting Hall, Whitehall, 98.

Bank of England, 164 (Plan I, 5).

Bangor, 318,

Banavie, 307.

Barber Surgeons', Hall, 169.

Bartholomew's (St.) the Great, 174.

,, ,, Hospital, 173.

Barclay & Perkins', 198.
Bazaars, 76.
Battersea Park, 105.
Baths, 43.

Baths and Washhouses, 82.
Bath, 293.

Baynard's Castle, 182.
Bedford Row, 146.
Belgrave Square, 136 (Plan D, 7).
Belfast, 326.

Benevolent Societies, 42.
Bettws-y-Coed. 317.
Berkeley Square, 140.
Bethlehem Hospital, 195.
Bethnal Green Museum, 203.
Bishopsgate Street Within, 201.
Billiards, 36.

Billingsgate Market, 185.
Birmingham, 315.
Black wall, 192.

Blackfriars Bridge, 1 80 (Plan H, 5)-
Blair Athol, 309.
Blind School, 195.
Bloomsbury Square, 148.

INDEX.

Boat Race, 3.
Bond Street, 117.
Boodle's Club, 118,
Borrowdale, 310.

Borough High Street, 196 (Plan I, 6).
Botolph's (St.). 202, 205.
Botanical Gardens, Chelsea, 104.
,, Kew, 269.

,, Regent's Park, 127 (Plan D, 3).
Bowling Alleys, 36
Bow Street, 141.
Bow Church, 161.
Box Hill, 280.
Braemar, 308.
Bristol, 294.
Bride's. St., 159.
Brighton, 287.
Bridgwater House, 108.
British and Foreign Society, 72.

,, Institution, 117.

,, and Foreign Bible Society, 178.
Bridewell, 179.

British Museum, 237 (Plan F, 4).
Britannia Bridge, 318.
Buckingham Palace, 107 (Plan E, 7).
Bunhill Fields, 175.
Burlington House, 115 (Plan E, 6).

Cabs, 19.

Carlton Club, 121.

Cavendish Square, 124.

Carpenters' Hall, 176.

Cannon Street. 188 (Plan I, 5).

Caledonian Canal, 307.

Callender. 304.

Carlisle, 309.

Carnarvon, 318.

Cashel, 321.

Capel Curig, 318.

Cattle Market, Metropolitan, 93.

Cemeteries, 83.

Charing Cross, 96 (Plan F, 6).

Bridge, 183.
Chatham, 282.
Chancery Lane, 145, 158.
Charities, 42, 70.
Charter House, 174.
Chatsworth, 313.
Cheapside, 161 (Plan I, 5).
Chelsea Hospital, 104 (Plan D, 9).
Chester, 316.
Chesterfield House, 136.
Cheyne Walk, 104.
Chiswick, 270.
Christ Hospital, 171.
Christ Church, Lambeth, 194.

,, ,, Spitalfields, 212.

,, ,, Westminster, 103.

Churches, 37, 65.

City of London Prison, 93.

,, Government, 77.

,, Companies, 79.

,, of London School, x6x.

,, Club, 177.

,, Temple, 172.

,, Museum and Library, 168 (Plan I, 5).
Clothes Exchange, 202.
Clubs, 85.

Clement (St.) Danes, 155.
Clifford's Inn, 158.
College (Royal) of Physicians, 96.
ti Surgeons, 144.

Coaches, 7.
Commissionaires, 22.
Concerts, 33.
Consuls, 44.
Coal Exchange, 185.
Covent Garden Market, 139.

Theatre, 32, 141.

Congregational Memorial Hall, 160.
Corn Exchange, 187.
Columbia Market, 203.
Cobham Hall, 201.
Cowes, 293.
Coventry, 315.
Cork, 322.
Con way, 317.
Cock Lane Ghost, 172.
Coffee Houses, Commercial, 75.
Courts of Justice, 83.
Crystal Palace, 262.
Crosby Hall, 201.
Crockfords, 118.
Cricket, 36.

Cremorne Gardens, 106.
Customs Regulations, 4.
Custom House, 185.

Dancing, 36.
Deptford, 259.
Devonshire House, 109.
Derby, 314.
Dining Rooms, 13.
Diplomatic Corps, 44.
Dowgate, 184.
Doctors' Commons, 160.
Dorchester House, 137.
Docks, 75.
Downing Street, 98.
Dorking, 280.
Drapers' Company, 178.
Drury Lane Theatre, 32, 142.
Drogheda, 325.

Dunstan's (St.) in the West, 158.
,, East, 185.
Dulwich College, 261.
Dublin, 319.

INDEX.

East India Docks, 192.

Edidburgh, 302.

Educational Establishments, 41, 71.

Elephant and Castle, 195 (Plan I, 8).

Ely Chapel, 172.

Epping Forest, 279.

Ethelburga (St.), 202.

Eton, 275.

Euston Station, 147 (Plan F, 3).

Evans's, 141.

Exchange, Royal, 164.

Exeter, 297.

Exeter Hall, 152.

Exhibitions, 35.

Finsbury Square, 176.

Fire Brigade, 81.

Fishmongers' Hall, 200.

Fleet Street, 155 (Plan H, 5).

Floral Hall, 142.

Foreign Office, 98.

Foundling Hospital, 146 (Plan G, 3).

Free Hospital, 146.

Freemason's Hall, 142.

Fresh Water, 292.

Fulham Palace, 270.

General Post Office, 170.
Geological Museum, 114.
Georges (St.), Hospital, 123.

,, ,, Bloomsbury, 149.

Cathedral, 195.

,, in the East, 192.

,, Hanover Square, 125.

,, the Martyr, 196.
German Gymnasium, 147.
Giants Causeway, 326.
Giles (St.), Cripplegate, 169.
,, ,, in the Fields' 150.
Glasgow, 305.
Glencoe, 307.
Glendie, 308.
Glengariff, 323.
Globe Theatre, 193.
Godalming, 289.
Goldsmiths' Hall, 169.
Goodman's Fields, 204.
Gough Square, 159.
Government Offices, 64.
Gray's Inn, 145.
Gravcsend, 281.
Green Park, 108 (Plan E, 6).
Great Queen Street, 142.
Greenwich, 260.
Gresham College, 165.
Grocers' Hall, 162.
Grosvenor House, 137.

Square, 140 (Plan D, 5).,

Guildhall, 167 (Plan I, 5).
Guy's Hospital, 197.
Gymnastics, 37, 147.

Hampton Court, 265.

Hampstead, 272.

Hanover Square, 124.

Harrow-on-the-Hill, 279.

Hastings, 290.

Haymarket, 113.

Helens (St.), Bishopsgate, 201.

Herald's College, 178.

Her Majesty's Theatre, 32, 113.

Highgate, 273.

Holdernesse House, 136.

Holborn, 145 (Plan H, 4).

Holborn Viaduct, 172.

Holland House. 92.

Holyhead, 319.

Holywell Street, 154.

Hop and Malt Exchange, 198.

Horse Guards, 97.

Horticultural Gardens, 245 (Plan B, 7).

Hotels, 9.

Houndsditch, 202.

Humane Societies, 41.

Hunting, 3.

Hyde Park, no (Plan C, 6).

Ilfracombe, 295.
India Museum, 252.

,, Office, 99.
Inns of Court, 84.
Inverness, 307.
lona, 306.
Ironmongers' Hall, 188.

James (St.), Street, 118.
,, ,, Square, 121.

., Park, 106 (Plan F, 6).
,, Palace, 119 (Plan E, 6).

Hall, 124.
,, Garden Street, 103.

Garlick Hill, 183.
Junior Carlton, 121.
Junior United Service Club, 123.

Katherine's (St.), Docks, 189.

,, ,, Hospital, 127.

,, Cree, 205.

Kendal, 311.
Kenilworth, 315.
Kennington Oval, 94.
Kensal Green Cemetery, 278.
Kensington Gardens and Palace, in,
Kensington (South) Museum, 245.
Keswick, 310.

INDEX.

Kew, 267.
Killaloc, 325.
Killarnery, 323.
Kilrush, 323.
Kingston, 267.

Kings Cross, 147 (Plan F, 2).
,. College, 154.

Lambeth Palace, 193 (Plan G, 7).
Langham Hotel. 126.
Law Courts, New, 155.
Law Institution, 158.
Lawrence (St.), Jewry, 166.
Leamington, 313.
Learned Societies, 40.
Leathersellers' Hall, 202.
Leicester Square, 163.
Leonard's (St.) on Sea, 290.

,, ,, Bishopsgate, 202.

Libraries, 43.
Limerick, 324.

Limehouse Church, 91 (Plan O, 5).
Lincoln's Inn Fields, 143.
Lincoln's Inn, 144 (Plan G, 5).
Liverpool, 311.
Llanberis, 318.
Llandudno, 307.
Llangollen, 316.
Lloyd's Coffee House, 164.

Register, 206.
Loch Lomond, 304.
Lombard Street, 188, 200.
London Bridge, 199 (Plan K, 6).
J^ondonderry, 326.
London Docks, 189 (Plan M, 6).
London Hospital 204.
London Institution, 176,
London University, 117.
Lords' Cricket Ground, 36. (Plan B, 3).
Loughton, 279.
I^owther Arcade, 150.
Ludgate Hill, 159, 160.
Luke's, (St.) 175.

Magnus, (St.) 184.

Manchester, 312.

Manchester Square, 139.

Mansion House, 163.

Mark Lane, 187.

Markets, 76.

Margaret's, (St.) Westminster, 99.

Marlborough House, 121.

Marshalsea, 196.

Martin's (St.) in the Fields, 99.

,, Outwich, 201.

Mary's, (St.) Aldermanbury, 177.

,, Lambeth, 194.

-, le Strand, 154.

,, Somerset, 183.

Matlock, 314.

Mayfair, 136.

Meat Market, 173.

Mercers' Hall, 162.

Merchant Taylors' Hall, 201.

Metropolitan Board of Works, 80.

,, Cattle Market, 93.

,, Meat Market, 173.

,, Railways, 5.

Meux's, 49.

Michael, (St.) Cornhill, 183, 206.
Middlesex Street, 204.
Military Asylum, Royal 104.
Millwall Docks, 191.
Mincing Lane, 188,
Mint, 187.
Mint Street, 196.
Missionaries' Museum, i/5.
Mitre Court, 158.
Money, 7, 44.
Monuments, 61.
Monument, The 184
Montague House, 98.
Mortlake, 270.
Music Halls, 34.

N
National Gallery, 253.

Opera House, 32, 182.

,, Portrait Gallery, 252.

,, Society, 72.
Natural History Museum, 251.
Nelson Column, 95.
Newcastle-on-Tyne, 300.
Newgate, 170, 171 (Plan I, 5).
Newport, 292.
Northumberland House, 95.

,, Avenue, 181.

Norwood Cemetery, 262.

Oban, 306.

Obelisk, 195 (Plan H, 7).

Olave's, (St.) 187.

Omnibus, 18.

Opera House, National 32, 182.

,, Italian, 32, 141.

i Oxford, 283.
Oxford Circus, 124,
Street, 149.

Oysters, 13.

! Palace, Royal, 63.

! Pall Mall, 120 (Plan K, 6).

; Palmerston Buildings, 202.

i Parks, 6.

: Park Lane, 136 (Plan D, 6).

Parcels' Delivery, 22.

Panyer Alley, 170.

Pancras Church and Station, 147.

INDEX.

Parliament Houses of, 205.

,, Square, 99.

Passports, 6.
Paternoster Row, 161.
Paul's (St.) Cathedral, 229 (Plan I, 5).

,, Covent Garden, 141.

Churchyard, 160.

,, School, 161.

,, Shad well, 192.
Peabody Square, 195.
Penrith, 310.
Perth, 309.
Peter's, (St. ) 206.
Piccadilly, 109 (Plan E, 6).

,, Circus, 114, 123.
Pigeon Shooting, 37.
Playhouse Yard, 179.
Plymouth, 296.
Polytechnic Institution, 126.
Port man Square, 139.
Police, 81.
Police Courts, 84.
Postal Arrangements, 20.
Post Office, General 170.
Portrush, 326.
Portsmouth, 290.
Poultry, 162.

Primrose Hill, 127 (Plan C, 2).
Prisons, 85.
Putney, 271.

Queen's Bench Prison, 196.
Queen Street (Great), 142.
,, Victoria Street, 177.

Railways, 5.
Reading Rooms, 43.
Record Office, 158.
Reform Club, 122.
Regent's Park, 125.
Street, 123.
Religious Societies, 69.
Restaurants, 12,
Richmond, 267.
Rochester, 282.
Rotherhithe, 191 (Plan N, 7).
Rotten Row, in.
Royal Society, ri(j(Sec also Academy, College,

&c.).

Ruabon, 316.
Runnimeade, 275.
Russell Square, 148 (Plan F, 4).
Ryde, 291.
Rye House, 280.

Safe Deposit Company, 177.
Salisbury, 298.

Square, 159.

Saviour's, (St.) Southwark, 197.

Savoy, 152.

Scottish Hospital, 159.

Sepulchre, (St.) 172.

Seven Dials, 150.

Sevenoaks, 280. >

Shannon, 324.

Shoe Lane, 159.

Shrewsbury, 316.

Sights, List of 22.

Sion College, 169.

Skating Rinks, 37.

Smithfield, I73 (Plan H, 4).

Snowdon, 318.

Soane's Museum, 143.

Societies, Learned, 40.

,, Educational and Humane, 41.
,, Royal, 116.
Of Arts, 151.

Soho Square, 149.

Somerset House, 152.

Southampton, 293.

South Kensington Museum, 245 (Plan B, 7).

South Sea House, 201.

Southwark Park, 191 (Plan M, 7).

Spencer House, 108.

Spitalfields, 204.

Spurgeon's Tabernacle, 196 (Plan H, 8).

Squares, 59.

Staffa, 306.

Stafford House, 108.

Stationers' Hall, 160.

Steamboats, 16.
Steel Yard, 184.
Stephen's, (St.) Rochester Row, 105.

Walbrook. 163.
Stirling, 304.
Stonehenge. 298.
Stock Exchange, 166.
Strand, 149 (Plan C, 5).
Streets, 57,

j Surrey Sessions' House, 196.
Swedish Church, 192.
Swimming Bath, 38.
Synagogues, 205.

Tabernacle, 196 (Plan H, 8).
Tabard Inn, 196.
Tarbett, 323.
Tattersall's, 136.
Telegrams, 22.

Temple and Temple Bar, 155 (Plan H, 5).
Thames Embankment, 180.
Thames Street, 182, 185.
Thames Tunnel, 190 (Plan M, 6).
Theatres, 31.

Thomas's (St.) Hospital, 193
Times Office, 179.
Tower of London, 233 (Plan L, 6).
Tower Hill and Subway, 186 (Plan K, 6).
Tower Street, 187.

INDEX.

Traffic, 62.

Trafalgar Square, 95.

Tralee, 323.

Traveller's Club, 122.

Tramways, 18.

Training Schools for Music, 254.

Treasury Buildings, 98.

Trinity House, 187.

Tunbridge Wells, 289.

Tyburnia, 138.

U
United Service Club, 118.

,, Institution, 98.

University of London, 73.
., Club, 1 1 8.
College, 147.

Vauxhall, 272 (Plan G, 9).

Ventnor, 291.

Victoria Bridge, 103 (Plan D, 9).

,, Docks, 192.

Park, 203 (Plan O, 2).

Street, Westminster, 103 (Plan E, 7).

Wapping, 190 (Plan M, 6).

Warwick, 314.
Waterworks, 81.
War Office, xai.
Waterloo Place, 122.

Bridge, 180 (Plan G, 6).
Wellington, 315.

West India Docks, 191 (Plan P. 6).
Westminster Bridge, 182 (Plan G, 7).

Abbey, 213 (Plan F, 7,.

Hall, 213.

,, Hospital, joo.

,, School, zoo.

Whitfield's Chapel, 94.
Whitehall, 97 (Plan F, 6).
White's Club, 118.
Whitefriars, 159.
Whittington's Almshouses, 273.
Wight, Isle of, 191.
Willis's Rooms, 119.
Windermere, 311.
Winchester, 294.
Windsor, 276.

York, 299.

Zoological Gardens, 127 (Plan D, 2).

THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE.

THE

CONTINENT OF EUROPE

An Itinerary Guide

FOR

TOURISTS.

Illustrated with Eighteen Maps and Plans.

AN ENGLISHMAN WITH FORTY YEARS EXPERIENCE
OF CONTINENTAL TRAVEL.

THOMSON BROTHERS,
120, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C

CONTENTS.

THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE.

PACK

Brief General Information and Advice I

Shortest Time from London to the Chief Cities oT the Continent:

First Section France and Italy . . 3

Second Section Italy .. .. 5

Third Section France 5

Fourth Section Belgium, Holland, Germany . . .. 5

Fifth Section Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . .... 5

Sixth Section Switzerland.. .... .S

General Continental Tour of One Hundred Days .. .. .. .. .. 7

Short Swiss Tours 9

FRANCE.

Outlined Tours i /

Brief Geographical Notices 23

Brief Historical Notices 27

Routes from London to Paris :

First Route By Boulogne 43

Second Route By Calais 45

Third Route By Dieppe 47

Fourth Route By Havre .. .. 49

PARIS :

Practical Preliminary Information 51

Brief Description .. SS

Brief Historical Notices .. .. .. 61

Guide for each Day in the Week .. 63

The Principal Objects of Interest 63

From the Madeline to Notre Dame 69

Palaces, Parks, and Places .. .. .. .. .. .. ..83

Bridges and Theatres .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..8s

co.vrxxrs.

PAGE

From Paris to Brussels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

From Paris to Germany .. ,. .. .. .. .. .. .. 101,103

From Paris to Switzerland .. .. .. . . % . .. .. 103,107

From Paris to Lyons .. .. .. .. .. .. ., .. .. 107

From Paris to Marseilles 107

From Paris to Nice in

From Paris to the Pyrenees .. .. .. 115

From Paris to Arcachon ..' .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..121

From Paris to Biarritz 121

From Paris to Vienna . . . . . . 123

Fiom Paris to Italy .. .. .. ., .. .. .. .. ..123

From Paris to Cherbourg .. .. 125

From Paris to Brest , 127

From Paris to Nantes 127

Bordeaux to Marseilles .. .. .. .. .. ,. .. .. ..131

SA VO Y.

The Route of Chamouny and Mont Blanc 135

The Route of Geneva 135

From France into Switzerland .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 137

SWITZERLAND.

(WITH MAP.)

Brief Geographical and Social Description 139

Northern Section ; .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . .. ... 141

From Zurich to Schaffhausen 143

From Schaffhausen to Constance .. .. 145

Central Section ; 145

From Grindelwald to Meyringen or Reichenbach .. .j .. ..151
Southern Section ; .. .. ... .. 157

Chamouny and Mont Blanc .. .. ,, . . .. 162

BELGIUM.

Brief Geographical, Historical, and Social Notices.. .... 165

The City of Brussels (with Map) and its Principal Objects of Interest . . . . 165
Ghent, Bruges, &c. ... .. . . n

HOLLAND.

Brief Geographical and Social Notices .. .. . .... .. .. 179

Outlined Tour .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . .. 181

CONTEXTS. iii

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

PACK

Biief Geographical, Social, and Historical Notices . . 187

German Life at the Watering Places .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 189

Outlined Tours .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ,. .. ..189

Rhenish Germany (with Map of the Rhine) .. .. .. .. .. ..191

Southern Germany From Frankfort to Switzerland .. .. .. .. 209

Northern Germany From Frankfort-on-the-Main 213

Map of Berlin .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..217

Southern Germany From Vienna to Frankfort-on-the-Main (with Map of

Munich) 223

THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

Outlined Tours 235

Vienna (with Map) Brief Notice and Principal Objects of Interest .. . . 237

Down the Danube from Vienna 247

From Vienna to Trieste .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 249

TheTyrol 251

From Bregenz to Innsbruck .. .. ... .. .. .. .. ..2^1

ITAL Y.

Brief Notices 257

Outlined Tour 257

Venice (with Map) 257

Milan (with Map) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

Florence (with Map) .. .. 275

Rome in Eight Days (with Map) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283

From Naples (with Map) to Brindisi .. ., 289

RUSSIA.

Brief Notice .. * 291

Routes to Russia 291

Cronstadt and St. Petersburg 291

From St. Petersburg to Moscow 295

TURKE Y.

Brief Notice 303

Outlined Tours 303

First Route to Constantinople By the Danube :

From Vienna to Bukurest 303

Down the Danube from Belgrade 303

Danubian Principalities .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 30^

Down the Danube from Galatz 305

CONTN7S.

PAGE

Constantinople (with Map) 309

To Ascend the Danube 315

To Visit the Crimea .. .. 315

Second Route to Constantinople By the Adriatic :

The Herzegovina 315

Montenegro 317

GREECE.

Brief Notice 321

Outlined Tour 321

The Isles of Greece 321

Athens 323

From Athens to Chalcis 327

From Athens to Corinth 327

From Athens to Missolonghi .. '.. .. 329

From Missolonghi to Athens 329

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

Brief Notices 331

Outlined Tours 33 1

From Barcelona . . . . 335

SWEDEN AND NOR WA Y.

Brief Notices 337

Outlined Tours in Sweden .. 337

Outlined Tour in Norway 339

ThamsmiBrathem .

THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE.

BRIEF GENERAL INFORMATION AND ADVICE.

" EVEN of those who wish to profit by
travelling, there are many who do not
sufficiently consider that, to see and hear
with understanding, they must come pro-
vided with some other stores beyond a
Purse and a Passport, and that those who
are unacquainted with the Geography,
History, Special Works of Art, Social
Features, and Local Objects of Real
Interest, of the Countries through which
they .ire passing, are as incapable of gain- j
i-ng information from their visit to Foreign |
Lands as if they were Blind, Deaf, or j
Dumb." " A man must carry knowledge !
with him if he would bring home know-
ledge'' Dr. Johnson. " Necesse estfacere
sumptum qui quserit lucrum."

THE COUNTRIES MOST WORTHY OF BEING
VISITED

are France, Switzerland, Belgium,
Holland, the German Empire, and Italy.
These also are the easiest to visit. Worthy
of being visited, in a less degree, with
greater difficulty, with diminished conveni-
ences and comforts, with heavier cost, and
at certain periods only of the year, on
account of exceptional climate, the Austro-
Hungarian Empire, Russia, Turkey and
Greece, Spain and Portugal, Sweden and
Norway, may be added in the second
category.

TIME FOR TOURS.

The summer-months, from May to
September, are the best for visiting France
(northern half), Switzerland, Belgium,
Holland, the German Empire, and Italy
(northern half). The winter-months, from
October to April, are the best for visiting

France (southern half), and Italy (southern
half). Those are properly " the seasons "
in those countries. But there is no diffi-
culty in visiting all the foregoing at all
seasons of the year, under different con-
ditions of clothing appropriate to summer
or winter as the case may require, and in
ordinary good health.

PASSPORT,

it must, be remembered, is the first
essential. Though not absolutely de-
manded in most of the Countries of the
Continent under recent concessions, it is
a simple and inexpensive Document which
will practically be found of the highest,
and in some cases even of indispensable
value. English Subjects should be pro-
vided with a Foreign Office Passport
from the Secretary of State, Foreign
Office, London, S.W. ; and American
Citizens with one from the United States
Legation, London, S.W.

LUGGAGE.

The less the quantity of Luggage, and
the smaller the number of packages of
convenient size into which it may be dis-
tributed, the greater will be the comfort
and the economy of the traveller. As a
general rule, the transit of luggage is
charged separately on the Railways and
other Conveyances of the Continent.

MONEY.

Circular Notes, which are payable all
over Europe at all the principal Cities, and
taken usually at the Hotels en route at
par, and which are issued by many of the
Banks of Great Britain and the United

GENERAL INFORMATION AND ADVICE.

States of America, are the best and safest
mode of carrying funds.

COURIERS.

A well-informed attendant, accustomed
to the traveller's wants, and speaking the
various necessary languages, contributes
undoubtedly much to the ease and luxury
of the employer. But it is an expensive
item, wages from 12 a month upwards,
according to qualifications, and the addi-
tional cost of travelling expenses as in the
case of the employer. For a large party,
and especially where Ladies are con-
cerned, a Courier is a decided convenience
and comfort. Otherwise, in the existing
state of facilities for Continental travel, a
Courier can well be dispensed with.

GUIDES.

Ldcal Guides in Pedestrian regions
are almost indispensable. In the Cities
and the larger Towns they facilitate the
economising of time. Their usual demand
is from five to six francs per day.

LANGUAGES.

English is understood in the principal
Hotels, Banks, and many of the Public
Offices throughout the whole Continent of
Europe. With this language alone one's
way can be effected generally without
much difficulty. But the superior advan-
tage of speaking the language of the
country through which one passes needs
no remark.

EXPENSES OF TRAVEL

depend upon the various differing con-
tingencies of personal habits, objects, time
at disposal, and rate of locomotion.
Ordinarily, the expenses per day are
proved by experience to fluctuate between
i 55. and i 155. for each person. A
number of persons travelling together
will diminish this.

EXAMINATIONS OF BAGGAGE

are made all over the Continent at
every frontier, called " douane ;" and
most Continental Towns also have a sup-
plementary axamen, called " octroi." The
usual taxes are on Wine, Brandy, Vinegar,

Tobacco, Beer, Oil, Charcoal, Meat,
Straw, and Hay. " If yqu refuse to 'de-
clare ' any of the above, you are liable to
a fine equal to the value of the articles."

PLANS OF TOURS.

TIME is the point to be primarily consi-
dered in deciding on the extent of tour.

A WEEK, even, will command many
places of the greatest interest near home.

A FORTNIGHT will afford opportunity
for visiting places farther from the
starting-point, and even such as are at a
considerable distance, by proceeding
direct and without stop, in the first
instance, to the locality desired to be
especially seen. The following Table,
showing the number of Hours occupied
in locomotion merely to any of the sub-
joined Principal Head-quarters, will be
found invaluable in this case as a
reference.

THREE WEEKS, a MONTH, and more
complete and extended Tours, are indi-
cated in their proper order further on.

SHORTEST TIME FROM LONDON TO THE CHIEF
CITIES OF THE CONTINENT.

FIRST SECTION FRANCE AND ITALY.

By Paris and Marseille

HRS.

Paris

f By Folkestone & Bou-
logne .................. 9

By Dover and Calais ... 10
By Newhaven & Dieppe 14
By Southampton and

t Havre .................. 16

(For Switzerland and
Southern France) ...... 21

Marseilles ...... (Southern France) ......... 29

Cannes ......... ) South-Eastern France ( 34

Nice ............ { and Italy ........... j 35

Genoa ............ (Italy) see next section ... 45

SECOND SECTION ITALY.

By Paris and Turin.

Turin (Italy)
Genoa
Milan
Venice

...From London

... 29

... 33

... 40

Florence 4

Rome 49

GENERAL INFORMATION AND ADVICE.

Naples
Brindisi

(For the East,
Greece, etc.)

Turkey,

S3
50

THIRD SECTION FRANCE.

French Watering Places.

HRS.

Calais ... ...From London ... 4

Boulogne ... ... ... ... ... 4

Dieppe 8

Havre 10

Vichy 20

Plombieres ... ... ... ... ... 22

Bordeaux 23

Arcachon 24

Biarritz 28

Pau 30

Montpellier ... 30

Aix-les-Bains 28

Marseilles 29

Cannes ... ... ... ... ... 34

N ^e 35

FOURTH SECTION BELGIUM, HOLLAND,

GERMANY.
To HRS.

Ostend (Belgium) ...From London ... 8

Brussels 10

Antwerp ...By Harwich 15

By steam throughout ... 18
Rotterdam (Holland)' ...By Harwich... 15

Amsterdam 19

Cologne, and the Rhine (Germany) ... 17

North Germany by Cologne. To

To HRS. Northern

Hanover ... ... ... ... ... 25

Brunswick 26 Central

Berlin .. -? z Southern

Leipzig ... ... ... ... ... 3*

Hamburg ...... ......... 31

Dresden ............... 33

Central Germany.

To HRS.

Frankfort -on-the-Main ... ... ... 25

Southern Germany.

To HRS.

Heidelberg ............... 26

Baden-Baden ............ 29

Munich ............... 33

Prague ............... 38

Innsbruck ....... ........ 40

Vienna ........................... 46

FIFTH SECTION GERMANY.

German Watering Places, Sp.is
To HRS.

Aix-la-Chapelle ...From London ... 16

Ems .................. 21

Wiesbaden ............... 25

Kreutznach ............... 25

Homburg ... ... ... ... ... 26

Pyrmont ............... 29

Schwalbach... ... ... ... ... 29

Baden-Baden ............ 29

Wildbad ............ ... 30

Kissingen ............ ... 32

Teplitz ............... 35

Marienbad ... ... ... ... ... 39

Carlsbad .............. 40

SIXTH SECTION SWITZERLAND.

HRS.

...Bale ...... By Paris ... 26

By Belgium... 32

...Neuchatel ...By Paris ... 28

...Geneva ...... 28

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR

embracing the Cities and Localities usually
visited, and most worthy of attention.

The scheme of this complete Outlined
Tour is of the utmost importance. It
should be referred to continually by the
Traveller. It will be found practically to
supersede the necessity of much question-
ing and advice. And it is a special feature
of the present Guide, to which nothing
elsewhere professing to cover such an
amazing extent of travel can be discovered
to prove anything like a parallel.

North of France to Paris.

ist Day. From London to Paris. The
Dieppe and Havre routes command Rouen,
which no city on the other lines can at all
compete with in interest ; and the Dieppe
route is more generally picturesque also.

2nd Day. Should be allowed for stoppage at
Rouen, to see it, if the Dieppe or Havre
routes be taken ; or for stoppage at Abbe-
ville and Amiens, if the Boulogne or Calais
routes be taken.

yd Day. At Paris. Any greater number of
6

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR.

days at the option of the tourist. One day
may give an idea of the City. Two days
might incorporate the Environs. A week
would be required to fairly see the former
t hroughout.

Belgium.

4/7* Day. From Paris to Brussels. Nothing
of particular note on the route.

^th Day. At Brussels. Any greater number
of days at the option of the tourist. One or
two will suffice.

6tk Day. At Waterloo. And return to
Brussels.

[Here Namur, Mezieres, and Sedan, the
side nearest to Belgium of the Battle-
fields of the Franco-German. War of
1870-71, may be visited, allowing from
two to three days extra in this case.]

7/7* Day. From Brussels to Ghent. See
Ghent. Proceed to Bruges. See Bruges

Sth Day. From Bruges to Ostend. See
Ostend.

C)th Day. From Ostend to Antwerp by
Malines. See Malines.

IO/7* Day. At Antwerp. It requires a full
day to be seen.

Holland.

ilth Day. From Antwerp to Rotterdam.
See Rotterdam.

\2th Day. From Rotterdam to the Hague. I
See the Hague and Scheveamgen.

lyk Day. From the Hague to Amsterdam, j
See Leyden and Haarlem on the way.

iqih Day. At Amsterdam. (Broek and
Zaandam.)

I5/7z Day. From Amsterdam (visiting
Utrecht, if desired), by Louvam, to Liege,
for the famous view commanded by r.he
approach from this direction.

Belgium.

l6.'7* Day. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapelie,
by the beautiful vailey of the Vesdre and
Verviers. See Aix.

Rhenish Germany.

\*jth Day. From Aix to Cologne. See
Cologne. From Cologne the choice may
be made of visiting either Northern Ger- I

many or the Rhine (in this latter case visiting
Northern and Southern Germany afte-
Frankfort, further on).

\Wi Day. From Cologne. Diisseldorf may
be visited before proceeding to Bonn on
the Rhine.

The Rhine.

igt/i Day. From Bonn, up the Rhine by
steam, to Coblenz. (First most picturesque
portion of the Rhine).

201/1 Day. At Coblenz. See the environs,
and visit Stolzenfels Castle.

2\st Day. Ems.

2'j.nd Day. Up the Rhine to Bingen. (Second
most picturesque portion of the Rhine).
Kreutznach may be visited.

Central Germany.

zyd Day. From Bingen to Wiesbaden. At
Wiesbaden a day may advantageously be
spent.

24/ Day. From Wiesbaden to Frankfort-on-
the-Main.

2$t/i Day.M Frankfort.
261 'h Day. At Momburg.

Northern and Southern Germany

may here be introduced, and be visited
from Frankfort in the following order,
allowing, on the average, two days to each
of the following separate localities, viz. :

Hanover.
Hamburg.
Brunswick.
Berlin.
Leipzig.
Dresden.
Prague.
Vienna.

The Danube, between Linz and Vienna, the
most picturesque portion.
Salzburg.
Munich.
Katisbon.
Nurnberg.
Augsburg.
Uim.
Stuttgart.
Heidelberg.

Frankfort-on-the Main, again,
8

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR.

Here the tourist will have completed
the circuit of the principal Cities of
Northern and Southern Germany, return-
ing to the original starting-point, Frank-
fort, allowing

30 Days for the introduction of the
above detour from the direct line of route,
which is as follows :

Southern Germany.

21th Day of the direct line of route. Ficm
Frankfort to Heidelberg.

2%th Day. At Heidelberg.

2gth Day. From Heidelberg to Baden-
Baden. Or, instead of the direct line,

The Battle Fields of the Franco-German
War

of 1870-1871, on the side nearest
Germany, may be visited advantageously
from Heidelberg by the following detour,
allowing on the average half a day to each
separate locality.

The General Route will in this case
stand from Heidelberg to

Spires (Speier.)

Weissenburg.

Worth.

Bitsck

Sarreguemines (Saargemiind.)

Forbach.

Saarbriick.

Treves (Trier.)

Luxemburg.

Thionville (Diedenhofen. )

Metz.

Nancy.

S trassburg.

Baden-Baden.

Thus the tourist will have formed a
circuit, to which should be allowed

7 Days extra. Rejoining the direct line
of route from Heidelberg at Baden-
Baden.

Southern Germany.
29//S Day. Baden-Baden.
30//& Day. At Baden-Baden.

$\st Day. From Baden-Baden to Freiburg.
See Freiburg.

y.mi Day. From Freiburg to Bale.

Switzerland

demands altogether special treatment, as
comprising the utmost variety of routes
within a comparatively compact space.
Much may be seen within A WEEK :
MONTHS may be delightfully spent in ex-
ploring it. It may be reached direct from
London in TWO DAYS or less (26 hours as
already indicated). The following skeleton-
tours will however be found effectually to
meet the cases of tourists whose time may
be either unrestricted or restricted in
greater or less degree ; and we are in-
debted for them to the " Practical Swiss
Guide" published at No. 12, Red Lion
Court, Fleet-street, London, acknowledged
by practical tourists to be the best
authority on this subject. The time re-
quired in each case is quoted direct from,
London to the starting-point on the
Northern Swiss frontier itself.

SHORT SWISS TOURS

" showing how much may be seen in the
most limited period (ordinary distances
and day travelling only) by a well digested
Plan. All that is needed is early starting
each day."

SWISS TOUR OF EIGHT DAYS.

Being only Four Days in reality to the
tourist already at Bale and not returning
direct to Paris or London.

1st Day. London to Paris.
2nd Day. Paris to Bale.

yd Day. Bale to the Falls of the Rhine and
Zurich.

^th Day. Zurich to Zug, Arth, and the Rigi.

$fh Day. The Rigi, the Lake of Lucerne, and
St. Gotthard Pass to Andermatt.

6th Day. Andermatt to the Lake and City
of Lucerne.

7th Day. Lucerne to Paris.
$>th Day. Paris to London.

SWISS TOUR OF A FORTNIGHT.

Being only Ten Days in reality to the
tourist already at Bale and not returning
direct to Paris or London.
6th Day. As already quoted.
1th Day. Lucerne to Meyringen.
10

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR.

8//& Day. Meyringen to Rosenlaui Glacier
and back.

9//fc Day. Meyringen to the Handeck Falls
and back.

loth Day. Meyringen to Brienz, the Giess-
bach, Interlaken, and Lauterbrunnen.

lith Day. Lauterbrunnen, over the Wengern
Alp, to Grindelwald, and back to Interlaken.

\2th Day. Interlaken to Thun and Berne.
lyh Day. Berne to Paris.
14/7; Day. Paris to London.

SWISS TOUR OF SEVENTEEN DAYS.

Being only Thirteen Days in reality to
the tourist already at Bale and not return-
ing direct to Paris or London.

\2th Day. As already quoted.

iyh Day. Berne to Thun, Kandersteg, Pass
of the Gemmi, and Baths of Loeche.

l^th Day. Loeche to Susten, Martigny, Pass
of the Forclaz, Pass of the Tete-Noire (or
Col de Balm), toChamouny.

l$th Day. Chamouny to Geneva.
i6tA Day. Geneva to Paris.
1 7/7; Day. Paris to London.

SWISS TOUR OF A MONTH.

For General Travellers. Conveyance
Everywhere.

Being only Twenty-six Days in reality
to the tourist already at Bale and not
returning direct to Paris or London.

1st Day. London to Paris.

2nd Day. Paris to Strassburg (or Bale).

3rd Day. Strassburg to Freiburg and the
Hollenthal (or Bale to the Rhine- Falls and
Zurich).

4th Day. The Hollenthal to the Rhine-Falls,
and Zurich.

5/7* Day. Zurich to St. Gallen, and Ragatz.

6th Day. Ragatz to Pfeffers, and back to
Ragatz.

jthDay. Ragatz to the Lake of Wallenstadt,
and the Lake of Zurich to Rapperschwyl.

8th Day. Rapperschwyl to Schwytz, the
Lake of Lowertz, and the Rigi.
II

9/7; Day. The Rigi to Lucerne, and the Lake
of Lucerne -to Fliielen.

loth Day. Fliielen to the Devil's Bridge on
the St. Gotthard Pass, and back to Amsteg,
at the foot of the Pass.

lith Day. Amsteg to Alpnach, by the Lake
of Lucerne, and to Lungern, at the foot of
the Briinig Pass.

12th Day. The Briinig Pass to Meyringen,
the Glacier of Rosenlaui, and Reichenbach.

I3//* Day. Reichenbach to the Falls of the
Aar at the Handeck, and back to Reichen-
bach or Meyringen.

14/7* Day. To the Lake of Brienz, the Falls
of the Giessbach, Interlaken, and Lauter-
brunnen.

15/7; Day. Lauterbrunnen to Miirren, the
Upper Valley, and back to Lauterbrunnen.

1 6/7; Day. Over the Wengern Alp to Grin-
delwald, and Interlaken.

j i"jth Day. Interlaken to Thun, Berne, and
Fribourg.

i i8/7z Day. Fribourg to Chateau d'CEx, and
the Simmenthal.

Ityh Day. Chateau d'CEx, by the Vallees
des Ormonts, to Aigle, on the Simplon
Pass.

2Oth Day. Aigle to Susten or Loeche.

2ist Day. Loeche to the Baths of Loeche,
and back to Susten, and on to Vie'ge.

22nd Hay.Viege to Zermatt.
2T>rd Day. Zermatt back to Viegc.
24/7; Day. Vie'ge to Martigny.

25/7* Day. Martigny to Chamouny, by the
Pass of the Forclaz, and Pass of the Tcte-
Noire, or Pass of the Col de Balm.

2bth Day. Chamouny to Geneva,

27/7* Day. Geneva ; the Lake of Geneva to
the Castle of Chillon, returning to Lausanne
or Ouchy on the Lake.

28/7/ Day. Lausanne to Neuchatel.
2$th Day. Neuchatel to Paris.
y>th Day. Paris to London.

SWISS PEDESTRIAN TOUR OF A MONTH.

Being only Twenty-seven Days in
reality to the tourist already at Bale and
not returning direct to Paris or London.
12

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR.

The italics mark where conveyance is
advisable.

1st Day. London to Paris.

2nd Day. Paris to Strassburg and Freiburg \
(or Bale).

$rd Day. Through the Hollenthal to the
Falls of the Rhine.

tfh Day. From the Falls of the Rhine to
Zurich and Ragatz.

$th Day. From Ragatz to the Bat /is of
Pfeffers, and by the Kalfeuser Thai to Elm
in the Sernft Thai

dth Day. From Elm to- Stachelberg.

1th Day. From Stachelberg, by the Klausen
Pass to Altdorf, on the St. Gotthard Pass.

%th Day. From Altdorf, by the Lake of
Lucerne, to the Rigi, ascending from
Weggis (or rail up from Vitznau).

gth Day. By tJie Lake of Lucerne to Engt'l-
berg. Thence by the Joch Pass to Mey-
ringen.

io//z Day. The Grimsel Pass to the Grimsel
Hospice.

nth Day. The Strahleck Pass to Grindel-
wald.

12th Day. From Grindehrald, by the Wen-
gern Alp, to Lauterbrunnen.

l^th Day. From Lauterbrunnen, by the
Sefinen Thai and Diindengrat, to Kander-
steg.

l\th Day. The Pass of the Gemini to the
Baths of Loeche, and on to Suslcn and
Brieg.

iyh Z)ay.By the Aletsch Glacier to Viesch,
and to Minister.

\6th Day. The Niifenen Pass to Premia, in
*the Val Formazza.

1"}th Day. To Do mo d'Ossola and Ponte
Grande, and on to Macugnaga in the Val
Anzasca.

i8/ Day. The Moro Pass to Saas.
ityh Day. From Saas to Zermatt.

2Olh Day. From Zermatt, by the Pass of St.
Theodule to Chatillon.

2.fst Day. From Chatillon to Aosta and Si.
Didier.

22nd Day. Ascent of the Cramont, and
descent to Cormaycur.

2$rd Day. From Cormayeur, by the Alles
Blanche 'to Mont Goset.

24/7* Day. To Contamines and Chamouny.

2$t/i Day. From Chamouny, by the Pass of
the Tete-Noire to Martigny, and on to Sion.

26th Day. From Sion, by the Pass of the
Diablerets to Aigle.

21th Day. Through the Vallees des Ormonts
to Chateau d'CEx.

28//i Day. From Chateau d' (Ex to Montbovon,
and by the Jaman Pass to Chillon, Lai*; of
Geneva.

2tyh Day. The Lake' of Geneva to Geneva.
3Ot/i Day. Geneva to Paris.
$ist Day. Paris to London.

The Swiss portion of the GENERAL
CONTINENTAL TOUR having been now
completed at Geneva, having allowed
(say) a Month, or 30 Days, to Switzer-
land the onward route to Italy will be
best continued by the

South of France.

62nd Day of General Continental Tour. From
Geneva to Lyons, (Aix-les-Bains, Annecy,
the Gorges of the Fier, the Ascent of the
Semnoz, Chambery, Grenoble, and the
Grande Chartreuse, may be visited by making
a circuit of two or three extra days on the
way to Lyons, unless the tourist proposes to
return from Italy to Paris by the Cents
Tunnel, in which case they may then be
equally advantageously visited en route to
Lyons. See g6th Day of this Tour further
on).

6$rd Day. From Lyons to Marseilles. Worth
stopping on the way, to visit the cities of
Vienne, Valence, Orange, Avignon, Tarascon,
Aries; one or two extra days would suffi-
ciently command them. From Tarascon,
Nimes and Montpellier may be visited by
the addition of one extra day (the route to
the Pyrenees). And from Rognac, Aix-en-
Provence may be visited in a few hours.

(jtfh Day. At Marseilles.

65^ Day. From Marseilles to Cannes.

66th Day. Cannes and Nice.

GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR.

North Italy.

67/7/ Day. F'rom Nice to Genoa, by the
Kivieradi Porente. Worth stopping on
the way at Monte Carlo, Mentone, and
Alassio, for the scenery ; by the addition of
one extra day.

68/7* Day. At Genoa.

69/7* Day. From Genoa to Pisa, by the
Rivieradi Levante.

loth Day. Pisa. And from Pisa to Florence.

1\st Day. At Florence. Any greater number
of days at the option of the tourist. A week
might be well spent here.

Central Italy.

72m/ Day. From Florence to Rome by
Perugia. Worth stopping on the way to
visit Arezzo, Cortona, Perugia, Foligno,
Terni ; by the addition of two extra days.

7 'yd Day. At Rome. Any greater number
of days at the option of the tourist. A week
may give some general idea of the city, a
month can be well devoted to it, and three
months would not exhaust its objects of
interest.

74//J Day. The Environs of Rome.
75/7* Day. From Rome to Naples.

Souikdrn Italy.

7&tk Day. At Naple-;. Any greater number
of days at the option of the tourist. A week
might be well spent here.

76/7* Day. Environs of Naples, Pompeii, and
Ascent of Mount Vesuvius.

77/7z Day. Castellammare and Sorrento.

1%th Day. From Naples towards the North
of Italy, by the Coast-line, or preferably by
Rome, to Ancona.

North Italy.

79/7* Day. From Ancona to Ravenna. See
Ravenna.

So//; Day. From Ravenna to Bologna. See
Bologna.

Sist Day. From Bologna to Padua, visiting
Ferrara on the way.

S2m/ Day. From Padua to Venice.

83;-^ Day. At Venice. Any greater number
of days at the option of the tourist ; two or
three might be well spent here.

84/7; Day. From Venice to Verona. See
Verona.

Southern Tyrol

i may be introduced here. The Brenner
Pass to Innsbruck, and back to Verona,
in two days.

Northern Italy.

\ 85/7z Day. From Verona to Milan, visiting
Brescia and Bergamo on the way.

I 86/7* Day. At Milan.

S7/ Day. Environs of Milan. To the Cer-
tosa of Pavia, and back to Milan.

North Italian Lake District.

S8//& Day. From Milan to Como, and steam
on the Lake of Como to Bellagio.

89/7; Day. Bellagio and its environs.
9O//& Day. From Bell agio to Lugano.

gist Day. From Lugano to the Lago Mag-
giore, and steam on the Lago Maggoire to
Pallanza.

Day. From Pallanzn, steam to Arona
and back to the Borromean Isles, visiting the
Lsola Bella, and crossing the Monterone to
Orta. The Sacro Munte at Orta may be
visited on the way, or deferred to the fQJlow-
ing day.

93/-(/ Day. The Lake of Orta, the Sacro
Monte, and by rail to Turin.

94/A Day. At Turin. And excursion to the
Superga.

95/7; Day. From Turin, by the Cenis Tunnel,
to PARIS without stop, in a day and night,
20 hours, if necessary ; but preferable only
to Aix-les-Bains.

France.

Aix-les Bains. See Aix and its Envi-
rons, the Fontaine de Grcsy, the Lac clu
Bourget, etc.

96/7/ Day. Excursion from Aix, to the Gorges
of the Fier (station Loragny), Armecy, and
the Ascent of the Semnoz (from Leschaux).

(Here may be introduced, if not already visited
as referred to under the 62nd Day of this
General Continental Tour, Chambery, Gre-
noble, and the Grande Chartreuse, on the ^wy
to Lyons and Macon, a detour of 2 clays only,
and well repaying the time).
j6

FRANCE.

7// Day. From Aix-les-Bains to Lyons
direct, if Lyons has not been already visited
as indicated under the 62nd Day of this
General Continental Tour ; otherwise from
Aix-les-Bains to Paris direct, (Lyons invol-
ving a slight detour), stopping on the way at
Macon or Dijou, and Fontainebleau, as
follows, in either case.

98/7? Day. At Dijon. Wortn some hours'
delay to see it. And on to Fontainebleau.

99// Day. At Fontainebleau. And from Fon-
tainebleau to Paris.

IOQ//& Day. PARIS LONDON.

FRANCE.

OUTLINED TOURS.

The Places necessary to be noted be-
tween the Starting-points and the Desti-
nations, and the Cities and Localities on
the way in consecutive order, will be seen
at once on each of the commonly-fre-
quented Routes that follow.

The Descriptions in detail, and all
needful information, will be found either
on reference to each Place in its Alphabeti-
cal order, or in its Local order on the
distinct routes further on.

Constant reference to these Routes
with the Map of the Continent spread out
will prove practically invaluable to the
Tourist.

IST ROUTE.

LONDON TO PARIS.

By Boulogne.
London.
Folkestone.
Boulogne.
Abbeville.
Amiens.
Creil.
Chantilly.
Paris.

2ND ROUTE.

LONDON TO PARIS.

By Calais.
London.
Dover.
Calais.
Boulogne.

(Continued as in 1st Route to)
Paris.

3RD ROUTE.

LONDON TO PARIS.

By Dieppe.
London.
Newhaven,
Dieppe.
Rouen.
Paris.

4TH ROUTE.

LONDON TO PARIS.

By Havre.
London.
Southampton.
Havre.
Rouen.
Paris.

5TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO BRUSSELS.

By Valenciennes.
Paris.
Chantilly.
Creil.
Amiens.
Arras.
Douai.

Valenciennes.
Quievrain.
Jemappes.
Mons.

Brain-le-Comte.
Brussels.

6TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO BRUSSELS.

By St. Quentin.
Paris. j

Chantilly. ( As 5th Route.

Creil. J

FRANCE.

St. Quentin.

Carlsruhe.

Mons.

Heidelberg.

Brain-le-Comte. As 5th Route.

Darmstadt.

Brussels.

Frankfort-on-the-Main.

7TH ROUTE.

IITH ROUTE.

PARIS TO BRUSSELS.

PARIS TO SWITZERLAND.

By Charleroi.

By Strassburg.

Paris.

Chantilly.
Creil As 6th Route.

St. Quentin.

Epernay.
Chalons-sur-Marne.
Bar-le-Duc.

Erquelines.
Charleroi.
Villers.

Nancy.
Strassburg.
Miihlhausen.

Brussels.

T> A 1

Bale.

STH ROUTE.

I2TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO GERMANY.

PARIS TO SWITZERLAND.

By Cologne.

Paris - As 7th Route.
Charleroi.

By Troyes.
Paris.

Namur.

Troyes.

Liege.
Pepinster (Spa).

Verviers.

Chaumont.
Vesoul.
Belfort.

Aix-la-Chapelle.

Miihlhausen.

Cologne.

Bale.

9TH ROUTE.

I3TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO GERMANY.

PARIS TO SWITZERLAND.

By Metz.

By Dijon and Neuchalel,

Paris.

Epernay.

Melun.

Chalons-sur-Marne.

Fontainebleau.

Bar-le-Duc.

Sens.

Nancy.

Joigny (Auxerre).

Metz.

Dijon.

Forbach.

Dole

Saarbriick.

Pontarlier.

Mannheim.

Neuchatel.

Frankfort-on-the-Main.

I4TH ROUTE.

IOTH ROUTE.

PARIS TO SWITZERLAND.

PARIS TO GERMANY.

By Dijon and Geneva.

By Strassburg.

Paris.

Paris. >|

Fontainebleau.

Epernay.

Sens.

Chalons-sur-Marne. \ As Qth Route.

Joigny (Auxerre).

Bar-le-Duc.

Dijon.

Nancy. J

Chalons-sur- Saone.

Strassburg.

Macon.

Kehl.

Amberieu.

Appenweier.

Culoz.

Oos (Baden-Baden).

Geneva.

19 20

PRANCE.

I5TH ROUTE.

Tours.

Poitiers.

PARIS TO LYONS.

Angouleme.

Paris.

Bordeaux.

Fontainebleau.

La Mothe (Arcachon).

Sens.

Morceux.

Joigny (Auxerre).

Dax.

Dijon.

Pau.

Chalons-sur-Saone.

Pyrenees.

Macon,

20TH ROUTE.

Lyons.

i6ra ROUTE.

PARIS TO ARCACHON.

Paris. )

PARIS TO MARSEILLES.

Bordeaux. > As iQth Route.

Paris.

La Mothe. )

Fontainebleau.

Arcachon.

Sens.

2IST ROUTE.

Joigny (Auxerre).

Dijon.

PARIS TO BIARRITZ.

Chalons-sur-Saone.

Paris. >.

Macon.

Bordeaux.

Lyons.

La Mothe (Arcachon). j- As iQth Route.

Vienne.

Morceux.

Orange.

Dax.

Avignon.
Tarascon (Nfmes, etc,)

Bayonne.
Biarritz.

Aries.
Rognac (Aix-en-Provence).

22ND ROUTE.

Marseilles.

PARIS TO VIENNA.

I;TH ROUTE.

By Strassburg.

Paris. \

PARIS TO NICE.

Strassburg. > As loth Route,

Paris. \

Carlsruhe. )

Lyons'. j As 1 6th Route.
Marseilles. /

Stuttgart.
Ulm.
Augsburg.
Munich.

Toulon.

Linz.

Cannes.

Vienna.

Nice.

23RD ROUTE.

i8TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO VIENNA.

PARIS TO THE PYRENEES.

By Mannheim.

By Perigueux.

Paris, )

Paris.

. i t As oth Route*

Mannheim. )

Orleans.

Wiirtzburg.

Limoges.

Nurnberg.

Perigueux.

Ratisbon.

Agen.

Straubrig.

Tarbes.

Passau.

Pau.

Linz.

Pyrenees.

Vienna.

IQTH ROUTE.

24TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO ITALY.

PARIS TO THE PYRENEES.

By the Cents Tunnel.

By Bordeaux.

Paris.

Fontainebleau.

Orleans.

Sens.

21 22

PRANCE.

Joigny (Auxerre).

27TH ROUTE.

Dijon.
C h:\lons-sur-Sa6ne.

NORTH-WEST OF FRANCE (NORMANDY )

M-i -on.

From Paris to Cherbourg*

Pnris.

( i

Atx-les-Bains.
Chambery.

Modane. ) ^ ,
A , f Tunnel.
Bardonneche. )

Turin.

Evreux.
Bernay.
Lisieux.
Caen.
Bayeux.

Cherbourg.

25TH ROUTE.

28TH ROUTE.

PARIS TO ITALY.

WEST OF FRANCE BRITTANY.)

By the Simplon.

From Paris to Brest,

Paris.

Dijon. As 1 3th Route.

Chartres.

Neuchatel.

Le Mans.

Alenon.

Rennes.

Paris. \

Brest.

Dijon. > As 1 4th Route.

Geneva. )

29TH ROUTE.

Lausanne.

FROM PARIS TO NANTES.

Vevey,

St. Maurice.

jst Way.

Martigny.

Paris.

Sion.

Chartres. As 28th Route.

Sierre.

Le Mans.

Viege(Zermatt.)

Angers.

Brieg.

Nantes.

Simplon.
Domo d'Ossola.

2nd Way.

"Pnric

The Lago Maggiore.
Arona.

x ans.
Orleans - As I 9 th Route.

Milan.

Blois.

Venice.

Tours.

Angers.

26TH ROUTE.

Nantes.

PARIS TO ITALY.

3 OTH ROUTE.

By Marseilles.

SOUTH OF FRANCE.

Paris.

From Toulouse to Marseilles.

Y l] n " As i6th Route.
Lyons.

Toulouse.
Carcassonne.

Marseilles.

Beziers.

Toulon.

Cette.

Cannes.

Montpellier.

Nice.

Ntmes.

Monte-Carlo.

Marseilles.

Mentone.

Alas*io.

Snvona.

BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Genoa.

Florence.

Length of France, 660 miles. Jireadth,

Rome.

615 miles. Area, 203,000 square miles.

Naples.

The country is comparatively plain in the

FRANCE.

North and Centre ; Mountainous in the
East and South. The principal Moun-
tains are the Juras Vosges between France
and Germany, and between France and
Switzerland, north-east ; the Cevennes,
south-east ; the Alps, between France,
Switzerland, and Italy, south ; Auvergne,
south-centre ; and the Pyrenees, between
France and Spain, south-west.

The flat country is generally highly
productive, and not unpicturesque. The
Landes, a district of the south-west, con-
stitutes a remarkably vast tract of heathy
marsh and sandy soil, unprofitable, thinly-
peopled, the occupants employed in tend-
ing sheep, and their locomotion effected
on stilts from 2 to 5 feet high.

The Mountains of Auvergne are of vol-
canic origin, their greatest height 6,000 feet.
The Pyrenees, greatest height 11,000 feet.
The Alps, greatest height, Mount Blanc,
16,000 feet.

The principal Rivers are the Seine,
Loire, Garonne, Saone and Rhone. The
Seine, 470 miles long, north ; the Loire,
600 miles long, centre ; the Garonne, 360
miles long, south-west ; the Saone and
Rhone, 600 miles long, east-centre and
south.

Forests, of which Fontainebleau is the
easiest visited, occupy one-seventh part of
the whole country. They are principally
towards the east.

Mineral Produce.

The Mineral produce of France con-
sists mainly of coal, in the northern dis-
tricts ; salt, in the southern and western ;
stone for building, in the northern ; and
iron.

Agricultural .Produce.

The Agricultural produce of France,
consists of corn, vines for wine, tobacco,
flax, hemp, madder, mulberry for silk, and
beet-root for sugar. Oxen commonly take
the place of horses elsewhere. The
system of succession of crops and alternate
crops is little understood, much land being
left to lie fallow. The number of Landed
proprietors is about five millions.

Man ufactiires

The manufactures of France are Wines
and Silks in the first place, and most im-
portant. A twenty-sixth part of the whole
country is under vineyards, and the annual
value of the Wines is estimated at
30,000,000 ; the wines of the eastern dis-
tricts are Champagne and Burgundy, those
of the western, Claret, and those of the
southern, St. Peray, Hermitage, Lunel,
&c. The Silks are one-fifth in value of
all the exports, silk being to France what
the Cotton-manufacture is to England.
The south is the chief locality of the silk-
trade, Lyons, the head-quarters, Avignon,
Nimes ; and in the north and west, Paris
and Tours.

Wool is largely manufactured in the
north ; the cloth is very good. Cotton is
manufactured to one-third the quantity of
that made in England ; in the north, also
linen ; cambric, lawn, in the north and
east. Iron manufacture is chiefly carried
on in the east and south, St. Etienne,
Lyons, &c. Jewellery is largely manufac-
tured at Paris. Tobacco yields 8,000,000
per annum to the revenue. The annual
value of Imports and Exports amounts to
upwards of 160,000,000 each.

Climate.

The Climate of France is eminently
healthy, clear, and cloudless. The Tem-
perature of the north is colder in winter,
and hotter in summer than England ; the
temperature of the south is hotter both
summer and winter than England.

The French People.

The population of France proper is
36,000,000 ; the addition of Algeria brings
the sum to nearly 40,000,000. The religion
is Roman Catholic. There are 1,000,000
Protestants, 100,000 Jews.

The French Army and Navy.

The Army consists of 450,000 on the
peace establishment. The reserve con-
sists of 450,000 more. Every Frenchman
is bound to military service, between trie
ages of 20 and 40 ; 5 years active service,
in the regular army ; 4 years in the reserve ;
26

FBANCE.

5 years local service in the militia ; 6
years on the reserve. The Citizen, when
made a soldier of, is however remitted to
his own home and business, only being
liable to be called out into the ranks again
in cases of necessity.

The Navy consists of 450 vessels of
war, of which number 290 are steamers,
and 33 iron-clads. It is served by 28,000
men, with an extra 15,000 of marines,
and 4,000 of artillery. The force can be
raised for war to 170,000 men. The
principal naval ports are Brest, for the
Atlantic, Toulon, for the Mediterranean,
Rochefort, Cherbourg, and L'Orient. The
conscription mans the Navy equally with
the Army, every sailor as every soldier,
is liable to be called out to serve.

The Revenue of France

I s above 1 00,000,000. The debt doubled
by the Franceo-German war of 1870-
1871, is little under ^1,000,000,000; the
national debt and interest exceed those
of England and America.

Brief Historical Notices.

The History of France is almost the
History of Europe.

The Roman empire, under J ulius Caesar,
annexed France fifty years before the
Christian era, under the title of Gaul
beyond the Alps. The Goths, Burgun-
dians, and Franks, especially the latter
who were of German origin as the Salii,
invaded and partitioned it on the Fall of
the Roman Empire. The partitionment
enabled the possessors to exercise the
authority of sovereigns, as in Lorraine,
Burgundy, Provence and elsewhere in
their respective districts, until they at
length assumed an entire independency
of the kingdom of the Franks, only
acknowledging the king as their head.
This gave rise to those numerous princi-
palities that formerly existed in France,
and to their several parliaments, which
have left their mark on so many of the
localities now visited by travellers, each
province becoming in its policy and
government an epitome of a kingdom,
tht power of the King-in-chief was
27

extremely limited and circumscribed by
that of his feudatories. The principle
of the government was that of a mixed
monarchy. Hence arose what is called
the Feudal System, viz., the tenure of
land, by which occupants were under
obligation to perform military service
whenever required by the chief, to whom
they owed allegiance ; a system which
eventually extended itself to all Europe.

The first Christian monarch of the
Franks was Clovis, who reigned at the
close of the 5th century, and introduced
Christianity. The Saracens overran the
country with the rest of Europe in the
8th century. The Franks defeated them
at Tours and Poitiers. In the year 800,
Charlemagne occupied the throne, and
enriched the French dominions with
Germany, Spain, and part of Italy. He
was crowned at Rome by the Pope. He
divided the empire by will amongst his
family, and fatally weakened it. His son,
Louis, was crowned Emperor and King
of the Franks in the year 816 at Aix-la-
Chapelle. After his death Germany was
finally separated from France.

The Normans ravaged France about
the year 900, and established themselves
in Normandy and Brittany, Rollo their
leader marrying a Princess-Royal of
France, and professing Christianity there-
upon. This laid the foundation of the
Norman power in France, which after-
wards gave the famous Conqueror of
England in the person of William, Duke
of Normandy, who overthrew the English
under Harold, the last of the Saxon
kings, on English soil, in the year 1066,
acid this last event proved most un-
fortunate to France itself, for it entailed
almost continual wars thenceforth with
England.

The Crusades, however, which followed
the preaching of Peter the Hermit, a
native of Amiens, where now a statue
stands to him, were of great service to the
French monarchy ; in the first place, by
carrying off thousands of the most turbu-
lent of its subjects, and many of the
leaders who were almost independent of the
supreme rule ; and in the second place, by
enabling the crown to take possession of,
28

PBANCE.

and to succeed to, numberless estates of
the nobility who died gloriously on " holy
ground," in Palestine and elsewhere, and
most conveniently left no heirs. A still
more substantial gain to Europe ensued
from them in the vast impulse they gave
to commerce ; which especially affected
the trade of the Levant, called out to
minister to the multitudinous hosts rush-
ing to and from the East, on which the
wealth of commercial Venice, Genoa, Pisa,
&c., rose.

On the death of Charles the IV., with-
out male heir, in 1348, Edward the III. of
England claimed the Crown of France,
fitted out an armament by land and sea,
landed on the coast of Normandy, and was
met by Philip, of France, whom he signally
defeated at Crecy, on the 26th of August,
1348. Again, the French were equally
defeated by the English on the field of
Agincourt, on the 24th of October, 1415 ;
and the English invested Paris.

Charles the VII. recovered France by
slow stages. The Maid of Orleans ap-
peared, a fanatic patriot, pure-souled and
single-minded. She inspired the French
armies to expel the English ; the jealousy
of the French generals and the French
priests, betrayed her to the English, by
whom she was burnt (it is said, but
doubted), at Rouen, in the year 1431.

Printing had now been invented ; and
the Protestant Reformation, begun in
Germany, in the year 1517, was bearing
fruit in France.

The political influence of France was
extending over Europe. Naples, and other
kingdoms of Italy, had admitted its sway.
Francis the I., cotemporary with Henry
the VIII. of England, "brave to excess,
but an unfortunate warrior," memorials of
whom remain at Fontainebleau, incited
bluff Harry of England to meet him
amicably on French ground ; and the two
kings met near Calais, where they vied
with each other in such prodigious expen-
diture and show as conferred upon their
meeting-place the famous title of "the
Field of the Cloth of Gold." Subse-
quently Francis made an expedition into
Italy, and was taken prisoner at the battle
of Pavia, on the 24th of February, in the
29

year 1525, only regaining his liberty with
difficulty and loss. He died in 1547, and
France was then flourishing on the whole.

His son, Henry II., engaged in war
with Germany with success. He encoun-
tered the Spaniards and English at St.
Quentin, and was there defeated. But
Calais was re-taken from the English, in
1558, the last ground on which the latter
possessed a footing in France, held for
200 years.

His son, Francis II., married the cele-
brated Mary Stuart, " Queen of Scots ; "
but France derived no benefit from this
union with Scotland ; and the youthful
king died at an early age, in the year 1 560.

The period of the Protestant struggles
now followed. Charles IX. was a minor,
and the Regency was vested in -a Queen-
mother ; it was a continuous series of
dissimulations, treacheries, and murders.
The Due de Guise, the scourge of the
Protestants, was assassinated at the siege
of Orleans ; the crime was attributed to
the Protestants, and three distinct Civil
Wars succeeded, in which Henry, King of
Navarre, a Protestant, opposed the Romish
party successfully for a time. Negocia-
tions, however, offered an apparently ad-
vantageous peace to the Protestants,
(called Huguenots), and the King's sister
was given in marriage to Henry of
Navarre. The Huguenot chiefs were
invited to celebrate the nuptials at Paris,
with the intention of butchering them all
in one night. This project proved only
too successful, though it was incompletely
executed, on St. Bartholomew's Day, in
the year 1572. The sign for the massacre
to commence was the sound of the tocsin
of the Church of St. Germain 1'Auxerrois,
facing the Royal Palace of the Louvre.
At its toll the work of death ensued, and
the horrors of that fatal night are suffi-
ciently well understood. About 30,000
Protestants were said to have been mur-
dered then in Paris and the Provinces.

Several Civil -Wars followed in conse-
quence. But the accession of Henry of
Navarre to the throne of France as Henry
IV., his profession for political reasons of
the Roman faith, and his publication of
the Edict of Nantes guaranteeing the

FRANCE.

free exercise of their religion to the Pro-
testants gave promise of a happier future,
in the year 1578.

Henry IV. was assassinated in 1610,
and was succeeded by his son as Louis
XIII., who was but nine years of age at
his father's death. As he grew, he dis-
carded his mother and her Court favour-
ites, and chose the famous Cardinal
Richelieu for his minister. In his reign
a period was put to the remaining liberties
of France by the most resolute and
bloody measures of Government, and to
the establishment of the Protestants, from
whom the City of Rochelle was taken.
Charles I., of England, who had married
the sister of the king, made some weak
efforts by the English troops and fleet to
preserve the City to the Protestants. This
terminated the Civil War in France, on
account of religion, in which, according
to credible historians, upwards of
1,000,000 lives were sacrificed, 1 50,000,000
francs were spent in the prosecution
of the struggles ; and 9 cities, 400
villages, 2,000 churches, 2,000 monas-
teries, and 10,000 houses, were in one way
or another destroyed during their con-
tinuance. Strangely enough, Richelieu,
though a bigoted Romanist, supported the
Protestant cause in Germany, under the
great Gustavus Adolphus, against the
House of Austria. His death, in 1642,
and that of the king, his master, Louis
XIII., in 1643, were almost contempora-
neous.

Then came the reign of the great Louis
XIV. This was the era of his mother,
Anne of Austria, the Prince of Condd, the
Marshal Turenne, the Cardinal Mazarin,
Colbert, Louvois, Turenne, Vauban, etc.
The history of this reign was the history
of Europe. Louis XIV. was the most
absolute monarch that ever sat on the
throne of France. Its manufactures,
commerce, glory, were carried to " a sur-
prising height." But by his revocation of
the Edict of Nantes in 1685, and conse-
quent vigorous persecution of the Pro-
testants, he forced the most industrious
portion of his subjects to take shelter in
England, Holland, and various parts of
Germany ; to which accordingly they
transferred also the silk manufacture

which had engaged them in their own
land, and France lost doubly from the
withdrawal of much of one of its most
profitable specialities, and from the up-
rising of skilled competition in rival
countries. The King made and broke
treaties ad libittim, until at last a royal
confederacy was formed against France
of almost all the potentates of Europe, at
Augsburg, in 1686, William, Prince of
Orange, being at the head of it ; and the
arms of the English under the Duke of
Marlborough, and of the Austrians under
the Prince Eugene, rendered the latter
part of the reign of the " grand monarque"
as wretched as the first part was magnifi-
cent. The French were at first victorious ;
they " ravaged" the Palatinate, and cap-
tured many of the most important towns
of the Rhine ; but a series of continuous
defeats and calamities marked their
history from the year 1702 to 1711. The
places, which in the early part of the
reign were acquired at a great expenditure
of human life and revenue, were taken
from the French in the latter part of it.
The Peace of Utrecht, in 1713, relieved
the kingdom only from absolute downfall.
And Louis XIV. died in 1715.

Louis the XV., great-grandson of the
preceding, succeeded at the age of six,
under the guardianship of his uncle, Philip,
Duke Orleans. A profligate and speculator,
John Law, a Scotchman, drove Paris wild
by his famous Mississippi Scheme, on the
breaking of which bubble, Law retired to
Venice, where his grave is now seen.
The King's views, as he grew, were pacific.
On the death of the King of Poland, in
1734, he endeavoured to place Stanislaus,
who was his father-in-law, on that throne,
but was foiled by the interposition of
Russia and Austria. Stanislaus however,
maintained the title of King, enjoyed the
revenues of Lorraine, and kept his little
court at Nancy, for the remainder of his
life, making it the handsome, (if not, as
once pretended, "the handsomest") city in
France, as it appears to the present
moment. A more formidable war broke
out between France, Spain, and Great
Britain, which terminated in the treaty
made at Aix-la-Chapelle, in the year 1 748.
This was of but brief effect, disputes

FRANCE.

speedily arising with Great Britain, on the
subject of the boundaries of the French
Colonies in North America, where France
appeared to have so firmly established her
sway, that a large number of the present
British subjects in the Canadas are of
French origin, and still speak the French
language ; and the same disputes were
reflected in the East Indies, between the
same powers ; with the similar result in
both instances of the influence of France
gradually declining before the growing
strength of Britain. The king was indo-
lent and sensual, completely in the hands
of female court favourites, who, ruling the
king, ruled also the kingdom, sowing the
seeds of the Revolution of 1789. Amongst
these, Madame de Pompadour, and
Madame du Barry were famous. The"
levity of society increased ; the offices of
Government were filled by the most unfit
and unprincipled ; the people were only
thought of as channels for the obtaining
of means to maintain the aristocracy in
pleasures ; the clergy exhibite'd more than
usual intolerance, while religion was being
undermined in all directions ; and the
aristocracy were so blind to their own
interests, that they aided in the dissemi-
nation of views destructive of all existing
institutions. The Jesuits were cited before
the high tribunals throughout the kingdom,
to do justice to their creditors, the rules of
their order were made public, pronounced
subversive of all civil government and all
morals even ; their colleges were seized ;
their effects confiscated ; and they were
finally expelled the kingdom, and the
order of Jesuits utterly abolished in France.
The great Revolution was approaching,
its elements on all sides invisibly fer-
menting like the secret power of the
volcano, preparing to explode.

The reign of Louis the XVI., brought
matters to a crisis. He ascended the
throne at the age of 20, in the year 1774.
His virtues gave promise of a happy era,
but his character was incapable of grap-
pling with the growing difficulties of the
realm. His marriage with Marie
Antoinette, of the House of Austria, was
unpopular. The French supported the
American Colonies which sought to throw
off the British yoke, and which success-

fully did so ; but the French who went
over to fight against monarchy in America,
naturally returned to their own country,
republican at heart. Then money became
absolutely necessary to carry on the
machinery of government. The Parlia-
ments refused to pass edicts for further
taxes. Finally, the old States General,
which used to vote money for national
purposes, and which represented all orders
of the people, was revived, the true
Parliament of the kingdom in the sense in
which the term is used in Britain, and the
assembling of this body, on the 5th day of
May, in the year 1789, was the bona fide
commencement of the Revolution, which
had been so long impending.

The populace urged by distress, famine,
desperation, rose tumultuously throughout
the kingdom. France was in arms, Paris
in re-action. Necker, the minister fell.
The state-prison of Paris, the Bastille, was
stormed and razed to the ground. The
people formed unions amongst themselves.
A self-constituted Parliament in opposition
to the established one, fulminated from the
Hotel de Ville. The revolutionary party,
incited by Mirabeau, the Duke of Orleans,
Marat, Danton, Robespierre, Couthon, and
others, plotted for the downfall of royalty.
The King and his family were made cap-
tives. The States General converted
itself into the National Assembly, and
drew up a declaration of " the Rights of
Man," and a new constitution. The
frightened nobles were flying in all direc-
tions. The Royal Palace of the Tuileries,
was taken and gutted on the loth of
August, 1790, the king suspended from his
functions, brought to trial, condemned to
death, and beheaded on the Place de la
Concorde, on the 2ist of January, 1793.
The Queen's execution shortly followed.
The other nations of Europe banded
themselves together against the Revolu-
tionists, and the Austrians and Prussians
entered France at five different points.
Thus began, in the year 1793, the great
European war, which extended to a period
of twenty-two years, closed by the Battle
of Waterloo. The Revolutionists assumed
despotic powers in the face of such
coalition, to suppress traitors within, and
encounter enemies without. The Reign

FRANCE.

of Terror was established ; all were
slaughtered who could be supposed
favourable to royalty ; or even to modera-
tion ; it being roughly calculated that
upwards of 1,000,000 of persons were in
consequence put to death ; and armies
were dispatched against the Austrians and
Prussians, with the boldest success. At
length a change supervened, and the heads
of the more sanguinary leaders, Robes-
pierre and others, were removed by the
same guillotine, to which they themselves
had previously supplied so many victims.

Then appeared on the scene the young
Napoleon Bonaparte. His effectual and
prompt suppression of a tumult in the
streets of Paris, brought him to notice.
He was appointed in the year 1799, to
command the French army invading the
Austrian dominions in Italy, where he
gained the great battles of Rivoli, Arcole
&c. Returning to France popular and
powerful, he expelled the Legislative Body,
called then the " Council of Five Hun-
dred," from their place in Paris, at the
point of the bayonet, and instituted a new
form of Government called " the Consu-
late," of which he himself was the head.
In 1804, Napoleon was declared Emperor,
was crowned with imposing magnificence,
and restored many of the offices and insti-
tutions which had been abolished in the
Revolution. A succession of victories all
over the continent by French armies, in
course of which he crossed the Alps, en-
abled him to place his own relations and
generals on many of the smaller conti-
nental thrones, while he reduced the power
of Prussia and Austria to the shadow of a
shade. His attempt to place his brother
on the throne of Spain called forth the
opposition of the British, whence the long
war resulted between this power and
France, which opposed the English Duke
of Wellington to Napoleon's marshals and
forces, and ended by freeing that part of
the Peninsula from French usurpation.

Napoleon married the Archduchess
Marie Louise, of Austria, in the year 1809.
His ambition seemed then to spurn all
bounds. He invaded Russia, but was
fatally forced back by the climate. Europe
began to regard him as a common as-
sailant, and combined to check his course.

After many battles with the Allied Powers
he was forced to abdicate, on the nth of
April, 1814 ; the act of abdication was
signed in the royal palace of Fontaine-
bleau, on a table which still stands there,
and he retired to the little Isle of Elba.
Louis the XVIII., the representative of the
Bourbon Kings, then a refugee in England,
returned to France ; but his court, un-
taught by all experience of the past,
outraged the people ; and Napoleon took
advantage of the national discontent to
escape from Elba ; landing near Cannes,
he proceeded triumphantly to Paris, and
resumed his pride of place. He summoned
a vast army, invaded Belgium, met the
British forces and Allies under the Duke
of Wellington at Waterloo, near Brussels,
and was there decisively defeated on the
i8th of June, 1815. In a series of furious
charges, the French troops were repeatedly
driven back ; and when returning from
their last grand effort, a general attack
was made by the whole British line, which
broke and scattered the French army, and
extinguished Napoleon's hopes of all
further empire. He was confined thence-
forward to the lonely island of St. Helena
where finally, broken-hearted, he died.

The Bourbons were restored to French
rule. Charles the X. succeeded in 1824.
There was a constitutional parliamentary
government of Peers and Deputies of the
people. But on the 26th July, 1830, the
King suddenly issued a royal ordinance,
abolishing the Liberty of the Press, the
Chamber of Deputies and the Law of
Elections. Revolution ensued, and Charles
the X. was dethroned.

By the influence of the veteran Lafayette,
the Deputies were induced to offer the
crown to the Duke of Orleans, who as-
sumed it as Louis Philippe ; the principle
proposed being that of Royalty guarded
by Republican institutions. The middle-
classes were much attached to their new
sovereign, believing the safety of France
and the peace of Europe dependent on his
undisturbed position. Guizot and Thiers
were amongst his Ministers. But the
King desired to reign arbitrarily. He
made his determination known to refuse
popular concessions and to resist all agi-
tation for reform in the state. A pro-
36

FRANCE.

clamation of his, of the 2ist of February,
1848, prohibiting a reform banquet, incited
the Parisian populace to arms ; barricades
were raised in the course of the night ;
the soldiers fraternized with the civilians ;
and the King and Royal Family fled to
England.

A provisional Government succeeded,
under the influence of M. Alphonse de
Lamartine, distinguished writer and poet.
But the Socialist party disturbed it.
Barricades were again raised throughout
Paris, and the rising was only quelled after
much bloodshed, by General Cavaignac,
who thereupon assumed the Dictatorship
of the country, until the national election of
a President of the Republic, to which high
office, Louis Napoleon, nephew of the
great Emperor, was called on the loth of
December, 1848 ; and on the ist of
December, 1852, he was equally by the
popular vote confirmed as Emperor, and
France again became a monarchy under
Napoleon III.

In 1854, the French, English, and Sar-
dinians joined to support Turkey against
Russian aggression, causing the war of the
Crimea. The Treaty of Paris, in March,
1856, effected peace. But the Sardinian
Minister, Count Cavour, took the occasion
to bring before the representatives of the
assembled Powers, the evils pressing upon
Italy from the occupation of the greater
part of it by Austria. The discontent of
the Italian states under their foreign rulers,
Sardinia alone (Savoy and Piedmont), in
the north, having its own constitutional
king, daily increased, and the Austrians by
increased rigours, fanned the flame ever
higher and higher. The government of
the King of Naples (Austrian), became
so despotic, that diplomatic intercourse
was suspended with it both by France and
England. Risings took place, put down
with ruthless military rule and executions.
At last, on New Year's Day, in the year
1859, the Emperor of the French, at a
reception at the Tuileries, intimated to
the Austrian Ambassador, the readiness
of France to oppose Austria in the contest
already foreshadowed in Italy. Austria
immediately hurried her forces into the
North of Italy, to encounter if possible
the Sardinians unassisted ; the French

forces, headed by the Emperor Napoleon
III. in person, passed the Alps with equal
speed, and united with the Sardinians.
France proclaimed the intention to " set
Italy free from the Alps to the Adriatic."
The Austrian armies were defeated rapidly
and successfully at Montebello, Magenta,
and Solferino, and the Treaties of Villa-
franca and Zurich followed, by which
Austria consented to vacate Lombardy,
retaining only that part of Northern Italy
which constituted the Venetian district.
The cession of Savoy and Nice, which the
French Emperor exacted as the reward of
his services, excited a very uneasy feeling
throughout Europe, which was with great
difficulty allayed. The Italian states, one
by one, rose, expelled their alien rulers,
and chose the King of Sardinia, Victor
Emanuel, in their place. The Romagna,
the States of the Papal Church, etc., were
amongst the number, the French, how-
ever, still maintaining the power of the
Pope, and protecting Rome.

In May, 1860, Garibaldi, a Nigois, who
had previously distinguished himself both
against the French and Austrians, placed
himself at the head of the insurrection in
Sicily. His name was a tower of strength
to the cause ; his little army gradually
grew into a large one ; Palermo was taken j
the battle of Melazzo was gained ; and
Sicily became independent by the end of
July the same year. His work, however,
was but half done, while Naples was under
the iron hand of Francis II. Garibaldi
crossed the straits of Messina with 8,000
men ; found the whole mainland ripe for
revolt, the royalist troops either fled or
fraternized with the people ; the king
deserted the capital a few hours before the
triumphant Garibaldi as " Dictator "
entered it. Royalty, however, made a
final stand, first at Capua, then at Gaeta,
which latter was eventually reduced after
a long and desperate siege, in which the
regular troops of the kingdom of Italy,
under the people's king, Victor Emanuel,
were necessitated to reinforce the revolu-
tionists ; and the sway of Austria was
ended in all parts of the Peninsula,
Venetia excepted.

In the year 1866, however, Prussia and
Italy declared war against Austria, on the
38

FRANCE.

iSth of June ; and the battle of Sadowa,
on the 3rd of July, inflicted such a crush-
ing defeat on Austria, that this power
became merged into that of Prussia;
Venetia passed into the hands of its own
people ; and Italy became all Italian, with
the exception of Rome, which was still
garrisoned by the French.

France declared war against Prussia, in
1870, a war of national jealousy and self-
conceit. The Emperor Napoleon III. was
compelled, in spite of his own judgment,
by the clamour of the nation, to take the
field, accompanied by his young son, the
Prince Imperial, in person, " while Paris
screamed farewells to the troops, whose
route was direct to Berlin." A few months
settled the campaign which began at
Saarbriick, and ended at Se'dan. In a few
days, the Prince Imperial had received
what France termed his " baptism of fire,"
what other people call "smelling powder,"
on the Exercis-platz of St. Johann, by
Saarbriick. In every important engage-
ment, the French were signally defeated.
The tourist will pass the sites successively
contested, on the Franco-German frontier,
Saarbriick, Worth, Forbach, Gravelotte,
and lastly Sedan, where the flower of the
French army was completely cut off, on
the 2nd of September, 1870, 80,000 men
forced to surrender, and the brief Imperial
telegram from Emperor to Empress was :
" I am the King of Prussia's prisoner ;
send the Prince to England. Napoleon."
A few hours after, the captive Emperor
was passing Verviers, en route to
Wilhelmshole, and England gave asylum
to the Prince, and the Empress Eugenie,
who escaped from France. The Prussians
advanced on to Paris. Strassbourg,
Metz, and Phalsbourg, yielded to their
prowess. The capital was invested on the
1 9th of September, 1870. The national
defence was entrusted to General Trochu.
During the four months siege which fol-
lowed, the Parisians made repeated
attempts to break the enemy's lines, while
famine was doing its work within. At
last capitulation became inevitable, and
on the 28th of January, 1871, the forts
were delivered up to the invader, and an
armistice effected, under the presidency
of M. Thiers. Paris was entered, and

actually occupied by the Prussians, on the
ist of March, 1871. The National
Assembly was re-established, at Versailles.
Unlike its predecessor, it was based, not
on the shouts of the mob, but as the will
of France, freely expressed through a
Parliament. Above all parties, the Demo-
cratic had least reasons to object to the
new Assembly. The government of the
country had been in its hands for some
months ; the prefects were its nominees ;
no Legitimist, Orleanist, or Bonapartist
intimidation or fraud had been suffered to
taint the pure spring of universal suffrage.
The Parliament so elected was thus
entitled, on pure democratic principles, to
the entire obedience of every Frenchman ;
it had for its head a most eminent states-
man, who had now concluded a necessary
peace. It was against this Parliament
and Ministry, and at such a crisis in its
history as the present, that the mob of
Paris rose in March, 1871.

The Socialists, variously called "Reds*
and " Communists," declared against the
provisional Government, and proclaimed
"the Commune," seized the Hotel de
Ville, murdered the Generals Lecomte
and Clement Thomas, the Archbishop of
Paris, the President Bonjean, and the
hostages that were in its hands. The
Communists determined on the conflagra-
tion of the City rather than its surrender ;
burned the Tuileries, Palais Royal, Hotel
de Ville, attempted the Palaces of the
Louvre, Luxembourg, and other public
edifices, and demolished the column of
the Place Vendome, standing souvenir of
the Napoleon dynasty. The total damage
to property thus effected has been calcu-
lated at ^25,000,000 sterling.

The " International," a cosmopolitan
society, prepared and controlled this
revolt. It has been described by M. Jules
Favre, himself a life-long Republican, as
" a society of war and hatred : its object
the destruction of capital and the annihi-
lation of those who possess it. It
demands, also, the abolition of religion
and of the laws of inheritance, and the
constitution of land as collective pro-
perty." The second decree of this Com-
mune accordingly " abolished " the nine-
months' rent then due all over Paris ; it
40

FRANCE.

increased the pay of the National Guards
to fifty sous a day ; it ordered the seizure
of all manufactories whose owners had
fled in justifiable expectancy of a new
Reign of Terror, and declared them the
property of the workmen ; it decreed a
daily payment to all "wives" of National
Guards, whether " legitimate " or not, and
appointed all such "wives" to be paid
nurses at the hospitals. The revolt
revived the worst traits of the mediaeval
war. It was met by the Government at
Versailles with great forbearance, and
even respect ; the revolters were referred
to as French citizens inflamed to riot by
" patriotic motives," the words of General
Vinoy. Eight days after the murder of
Generals Lecomte and Thomas, the
Government offered them a compromise
based on a complete recognition of muni-
cipal liberties, the election of all officers of
the National Guard, including actually
the Commander-in- Chief, and modifica-
tions in favour of debtors of petty obliga-
tions and small rents. Even after the
revolt had gone on for three weeks, at the
commencement of April, M. Thiers de-
clared that if Paris were at once surren-
dered, he would grant pardon to eveiy
one but the assassins of Generals Lecomte
and Thomas. The Communists would
not hear of terms. The newspaper, the
"Cri du Peuple," edited by M. Jules
Valles, a member of the Commune,
stated, "The forts may be taken, the
ramparts may fall, but no soldier shall
enter Paris, and if M. Thiers is a chemist
he will understand us ; " the incendiarism
thus pointed to was soon begun. A bri-
gade of " rocket-men " was organised ;
petroleum was " requisitioned ; " Paris
was given over for days to the terrors of
an organised ruffianism, and for nights to
the horrors of a darkness lighted only by
the flames of public buildings.

And this has given force to a philosophy
of history that France, as a rule, is revo-
lutionary ; that, as soon as one revolution
becomes obliterated from the popular
recollection, another is sure to originate.
In every twenty years or so, there is
a new, fresh, ardent France, which has
not seen a Government overthrown an
tmeute follows. The First Republic had
4*

been dead twenty-six years, and the cruel
conscriptions of the Empire had passed
out of sight for fifteen years, when Parib
prepared her periodical revolt in 1830.
In eighteen years more she was ready for
a new one, which accordingly took place
in 1848. Twenty years further, and the
discontents were at work, which finally
forced the Emperor into a plebiscite, and
a war with Germany in 1870. The date
of the next revolution, according to his-
torical precedent, is therefore presumed
to be easy to calculate !

In May, 1871, the French army, under
Marshal MacMahon, forced its way from
Versailles into Paris, and the Commune
came to an end. It was agreed that the
Germans should vacate French territory
on the cession by France of the provinces
of Alsace and the greater portion of
Lorraine, and an indemnity for the
expenses of the war, amounting to
,200,000,000 sterling.

The Alsace-Lorraine provinces trans-
ferred thus to Germany, and now belong-
ing to this latter power, comprise an area
of 263,000 geographical square miles,
divided into the departments of Upper
Alsace, Lower Alsace, and German Lor-
raine. Their total population amounts to
1,600,000, of whom only 260,000 are really
French, the rest being German. The
Roman Catholics number 1,280,000 ; the
Protestants, 230,000 ; the Jews, 50,000 ;
and others, 40,000. Strassburg, the chief
city, has a population of 85,000 ; Miil-
hausen, 52,000 ; Metz, 51,000.

The King of Prussia now assumed the
old Imperial title of Emperor of Germany ;
and the French troops having necessarily
withdrawn from Rome, the whole of Italy
became consolidated under the sole crown
of Victor Emanuel, King, the Pope still
occupying simply the precincts of the
Vatican at Rome, pensioned by the king-
dom, but a temporal prince no longer.

The existing government of France is
Republic, under a President, to which
dignity, the Marshal MacMahon was
elected on the 24th of May, 1873, an d his
tenure of office was prolonged on the 2oth
of November, 1873, f r a period of seven
years. The Seat of Government is at
Versailles. The National Assembly con-
42

PRANCE.

sists of 738 members. " This country has
seen at different times an Oligarchy, a
despotism, a Constitutional Monarchy,
and a Republic, with a President at its
head. Of late, however, the Constitution
of France has always more or less
resembled that of Britain, in having two
Legislative Chambers." ( Tytler).

These BRIEF HISTORICAL INOTICES of
this remarkable country, will be found to
be in great degree a history of THE REST
OF EUROPE also, and the Places and
Events referred to in French History, will
be found illustrative of most of the other
European localities and leading occur-
rences, with which the Tourist of Europe
will find he has to do.

ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS.

FIRST ROUTE BY BOULOGNE FROM
LONDON TO PARIS.

Express in 9^ hours.

From London to Folkestone, South-
Eastern Railway, in 2> hours. From
Folkestone to Boulogne, steamers, in i^
hours. From Boulogne to Paris, North
of France Railway, in 5^ hours.

BOULOGNE.

Boulogne-sur-mer, so called to dis-
tinguish it from numerous other Boulognes
in France, has a population of 40,000. It
is situated on the sea and the river Liane.
It has no pretension to the picturesque,
but is nevertheless an agreeable watering-
place. A fourth of the population is
English, and nearly every one speaks the
language. The native population is
largely occupied in fishing.

There are several English churches at
Boulogne.

British Consul : W. Stigand, Esq.

American Consul : L. Trager, Esq.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Bath House, at which balls, concerts, &c.,
are continually given to the public.

ThQ Jetty, the favourite promenade, 2000
feet long, is thronged, especially in the evening,
by visitors.

The Cathedral, Notre Dame, is imposing,
built in Greco-Roman style, modern. The
interior is ornate.

The Museum, in the chief street, contains
a fair collection of paintings and curiosities.

The Upper Town is the oldest portion of the
city, and its quaintness will strike the stranger
for the first time in France.

The Tintelleries form the quarter principally
occupied by the English residents.

The Monument or Column, high above the
city, and at some distance from it, on the road
to Calais, was erected by Napoleon I., to com-
memorate his invasion of England (which
never took place),

There is nothing at Boulogne to delay
the tourist.

The route from Boulogne to Paris, is
pretty, but not striking.

CRECY, famous for its battle (see Historical
Notices), where the English under Edward
III., defeated the French under Philip of
Valois, in the year 1346, lies to the left.

At NOZELLES station, the railway branches
off to the right to ST. VALERY-SUR-SOMME,
a pretty watering place of a village on the
coast.

ABBEVILLE

has a population of 20,000. It is a forti-
fied city. It is connected with the sea by
the river Somme. It was occupied by the
Germans, in the war of 1870-1871.
The principal object of interest is :
The Cathedral, gothic. An extremely beau-
tiful and famous structure, especially the west
front and arches of the nave.

There is nothing of further note

AMIENS.

Amiens is a rather handsome city,
regularly built, on the Somme. It has a
population of 63,800. It manufactures
cotton, velvets, linen, c. It was occu-
pied by the Germans, in the war of 1 870-
1871, and M. Gambetta here descended

FBANCE.

in the balloon by which he escaped from
Paris, on the 7th of October, 1870.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Cathedral, gothic, one of the finest in
Europe, began in the year 1220. " The in-
terior is one of the most magnificent spectacles
that architectural skill has ever produced. The
mind is filled and elevated by its enormous
height, 140 feet, its grand proportions, its
noble simplicity. The proportion of height
to breadth is almost double that to which we
are accustomed in English Cathedrals. The
vault is half as high again as the roof of West-
minster Abbey." (Whewelt). It is 442 feet
long. The rose windows, the stained glass,
the pulpit, the various sculptures, are all well
worthy of notice. It professes to have pre-
served the head of St. John the Baptist.

The Statue of Peter the Hermit, the preacher
of the first crusade, already referred to in
Historical Notices.

Amiens is a junction common to several
lines of rail and routes between England
and Paris, and England, France, Belgium,
and Germany.

The route from Amiens to Paris passes

CREIL.

Creil is a manufacturing town, with a
population of 5,000, and railway buffet.

CHANTILLY.

Chantilly has a population of 4,000 ; of
which 400 are English. A large propor-
tion of its population is engaged in its
manufacture of lace. It is famous for the
chateau, of which but a small segment
remains, of the great Conde's, now the
property of the Due d'Aumale. Finely
situated in forests. And races are held
here under the direction of the Jockey
Club of Paris ; for the times and seasons
of which, see " Paris " further on.

There is nothing further, on this line, of
particular moment to the tourist en route
to Paris.

The Paris Terminus is that of the
Chemin de fer du Nord, Place Roubaix.

SECOND ROUTE FROM LONDON TO PARIS.
By Calais.

Express in io> hours.

From London to Dover, in 2^ hours.
From Dover to Calais, steamer, in i^

4.5

hours. From Calais to Paris, passing
Boulogne, as in previous route, North of
France Railway, in 6> hours.

CALAIS.

Calais is essentially an old-fashioned
sea-port town. It has a population of
16,000. It manufactures cotton largely,
silk, lace, &c. It is flat, and eminently
unpicturesque. Famous for its siege in
the time of Edward the III., of England.

British Consul : Captain Hotham.

American Consul : G. Vendroux, Esq.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Church of Notre Dame. It has fine
stained-glass windows, and some paintings
attributed to Rubens and Vandyck.

The Hotel de Guise was the old Guildhall,
where Henry VIII. of England lodged at the
time of the "Field of the Cloth of Gold,"
already adverted to under Historical Notices,

The Gate leading from the front into the
city is that which appears in one of Hogarth's
most famous paintings.

The suburb of Calais, called St. Pierre-
les-Calais, has an English population,
chiefly manufacturing, of 2,600, and a
handsome English Church.

There is nothing at Calais to delay the
tourist. Rails run hence to Belgium and
Germany, as well as to Paris, by Boulogne,
Boulogne being connected with Calais, by
a short line of three-quarters of an hour
transit ; whence the rest of the way to
Paris is the same as already described
under the preceding route, passing Abbe-
ville, Amiens, Creil, and Chantilly.

Paris can also be reached from Calais
by St. Omer, Lille, Douai, and Arras ;
thence by Amiens, Creil and Chantilly,
as above.

ST. OMER.

St. Omer has a population about 22,000.
Many English reside here.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Cathedral, a fine edifice, with fine
sculptured work in its recessed portals.

The Abbey of St. Bertin,'vn. ruins, was once
one of the most noble in Europe.

The Roman Catholic Seminary of St. Omer
is well known from its previous connexion with
the Jesuits, and the education of English and
Irish Roman Catholics.
46

FRANCE.

LILLE.

Lille is a large commercial and manu-
facturing city, the capital of the Depart-
ment of the North, and is fortified.
Vauban fortified, and the Duke of Marl-
borough took it in 1708. It has a
population of 160,000. It has wide streets,
and altogether a modern appearance.
There are 8,000 hands employed in cotton-
mills here, the annual produce of which
exceeds ,1,000,000. There is an English
Church, and there is a second at Araien-
tieres in the vicinity. The railway buffet
is good.

British Consul : W. Wilson, Esq.

American Consul : C. Gregoire, Esq.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Hotel de Ville, formerly a palace of the
Dukes of Burgundy, from the I5th century.

The Church of Si. Maurice, a fine gothic of
the 1 6th century, has been restored from English
designs, and is very beautiful.

The Museum contains some good paintings
of the various schools.

DOUAI.

Douai has a population of 25,000. It is
chiefly celebrated for its Roman Catholic
University, whence the version of the Bible
used in the Romish Church bears its

name.

ARRAS.

Arras has a population of 29,000. It is
a regular and uninteresting city. It has
one of the largest corn markets in the
north of France. Robespierre was born
here.

AMIENS has already been described on
the First Route from London to Paris, by
Boulogne, passing also Creil and Chantilly
to the Paris Treminus, Chemin de fer du
Nord, Palace Roubaix.

THIRD ROUTE BY DIEPPE FROM LONDON
TO PARIS.

Express in 14 hours.

From London to Newhaven, London,
Brighton and South-coast Railway, in 2
hours. From Newhaven to Dieppe,
steamers, in 6 hours. From Dieppe to
Paris, West of France Railway, in 4
hours. The train ar*} steam services are
not in immediate correspondence.

In point of scenery, this route is the
prettiest to Paris.

DIEPPE.

Dieppe has a population of 21,000. It
is one of the chief summer bathing-places
of the rich Parisians. It was occupied by
the Germans in the war of 1870-71. Its
oyster trade is extensive, its " pares" con-
tain 250,000 cwt., of which Paris alone is
stated to consume 100,000,000 individual
molluscs annually.

British Consul : H. W. Lee-Goutin, Esq.

American Consul : J. Levert, Esq.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Bathing Establishment, where balls,
concerts, etc., succeed each other almost daily.

The Plage, or beach, is handsomely built
upon, gardened, etc.

There is nothing at Dieppe to delay the
tourist.

The railway from Dieppe to Rouen
passes through a country marked prettily
by small hills and valleys, orchards,
chateaux, villas, cotton-mills, tanneries,
etc.

ROUEN.

Rouen has a population of 103,000. It
is situated on the river Seine, which is
here a thousand feet in width. It was the
ancient capital of Normandy. Much of
the olden part of the city still remains :
the recent modern part is open and hand-
some, but the great interest attaches to
the former. Its memorials of the Middle-
Ages and of the Renaissance are of in-
comparable value and beauty. Almost
every house in the un-modernised portion
is rich in evidences of the past. The chief
manufacture of the present day is cotton :
it employs here the greatest portion of
the population.

There is an English church.

British Consul : H. F. Herring, Esq.

American Consul : L. Guebert, Esq.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Cathedral, commenced in the 4th cen-
tury was one of the first Christian churches ;
after numerous transformations it eventually
became one of the chief works of the early part
of the thirteenth century. The grand portal is
of the age of Louis the XII. The monuments
and tombs in the interior worthy of note are
that of Richard the First, King of England and

PBANCE.

of Normandy, " Cceur-de-Lion, " who be-
queathed his heart (which therefore alone is
entombed here) to the country and city he loved
best ; his effigy, the statues of the Cardinals
d'Amboise, the monument of the Due de Brize,
husband of the famous Diana of Poictiers, mis-
tress of Henry the Second of France, the work
of Goujon.

The Church of St. Ouen, one of the most
magnificent types extant of the architecture of
the fourteenth century. It surpasses the
Cathedral in every point of view except that
of historic monuments. The Huguenots in the
sixteenth century lighted bonfires in the nave to
consume the furniture. It is in the finest state
of preservation now. It is 444 feet long and
100 feet high. The central tower, a model of
beauty, reaches a height of 260 feet, and can
be ascended by visitors. St. Ouen was a
Bishop of the seventh century.

The Church of St. Maclou is noticeable for
its fine fa9ade, which has been likened to lace
work.

The Church of St. Vincent has a grand
gothic porch, and is rich in stained glass.

The Hotel de Ville was formerly part of the
Abbey of St. Ouen. The front is modern.
The staircase in the middle is remarkable for
its elegance and lightness. It contains the
Public Library and Picture Gallery. In the
latter is a copy of the famous Madonna di San
Sisto of Raphael, the original of which is in
the Dresden Gallery, and which is priceless.

The Palais de Justice is the old judgment
hall in which Joan of Arc was condemned to
be burnt in 1431. Here the ancient Parlia-
ment of Normandy used to meet .

The Rue de la Grosse Horloge is close by,
and presents perhaps the most characteristic
street of the whole ancient city.

1 'he Place de la Pucelle, supposed to be that
on which Joan of Arc was burnt to death, as
already referred to above, contains a statue of
the unhappy Maid on the alleged fatal fiery
spot.

The Museum, in the Rue Beauvoisin, con-
tains a vast number of antiquities.

The city is dominated by a hill called
St. Catherine's Mount, surmounted by a
modern church dedicated to "Notre
Dame des bon secours," in a fine position.

The ascent is 380 feet, and the view
from the top extremely beautiful.

The railway from Rouen to Paris stili
continues through a picturesque country,

the river Seine flowing all the way along-
side.
The only large town of note passed is

MANTES.

Mantes has a population of 6,000. Its
situation is pretty, on the river Siene.
But nothing can exceed its dulness (or
quiet ?) Its church of Notre Dame and
its Gothic towers are the only objects of
attraction. The Chateau de Rosny is at
a short distance, built in the year 1559, by
Sully, the Minister and devoted friend of
Henry IV., King of France. There is
good fishing here.

There is nothing further on this line, of
particular moment to the tourist en route
to Paris.

The Paris Terminus is that of the
Chemin de fer de 1'Ouest, St. Lazare.

FOURTH ROUTE BY HAVRE FROM
LONDON TO PARIS.

Express in 16 hours.

From London to Southampton, London
and South- Western Railway, in 2^ hours.
From Southampton to Havre, steamers,
in 7X hours. From Havre to Paris,
West of France Railway, in 4^ hours.

HAVRE.

Havre, formerly called Havre-de-grace,
has a population of 90,000. It is the
second most commercial port of France.
Marseilles being the first. Its commerce
connects it with all parts of the world.
In a single year 3,000 foreign vessels,
representing a register of 2,000,000 tons,
have entered its port. It can accom-
modate at once 500 ships. All the docks,
&c., together, have room for an average of
2,000 vessels of all sorts.

On the Cap la Heve, two miles from
the city, are Light houses, 50 feet in
height, from the summit of the rocks,
which show electric lights that reach to
20 miles out at sea.

In the wars of the Huguenots, the
Prince of Condd put the English in
possession of Havre, in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth of England ; and the Earl of
Warwick was commandant of it; until
50

FKANCE.

after a fierce siege in which three-fourths
of the garrison were killed, it was surren-
dered to Montmorency. Here the leaders
of the Fronde, the Prince of Conde, and
De Longueville, were imprisoned in the
time of the Cardinal Mazarin, in the year
1650. Louis the XVI., gave the greatest
impulse to the prosperity of Havre.

There are no monuments of the historic
or social past, the town has quite a modern
appearance.

The English Church, a handsome building,
opened last year, is in the Rue de Mexico.

The American Church is in the Rue de la
Paix.

Club and Reading Rooms are in the Cercle
du Commerce, to which strangers find ready
admission ; any member can introduce them.

British Consul : Frederick Bernal, Esq.

American Consul : Colonel Brigland.

The principal objects of interest are :

The Theatre, a fine building, in the main
street, on the Place Louis Seize.

The Basins of Commerce. The largest, the

Bassin de 1'Eure, constructed between the years
1845-56, comprises 50 acres.

The Hotel de Ville is a new and extremely
striking building at the top of the main street,
decidedly worthy of delay to visit, in regard
both to its architecture of the modern school,
and its charming position.

The Aquarium is one of the finest in Europe,
and will well repay inspection.

Ingouville, as the range of hills at the
back of the city, forming the suburb, is
termed, and Graville, gay with pretty
villas and gardens, present an enchanting
view, and are worth being visited and
ascended for the magnificent prospect the
hill commands. They have American and
English residents.

The Railway from Havre to Paris
passes Rouen, already described in the
preceding route between Dieppe and Paris,
to both of which the rest of the road is
common.

The Paris Terminus is equally that of
the Chemin de fer de 1'Oust, St. Lazare.

PARIS.

PRACTICAL PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

In Arriving, cabs and family omnibuses
are in attendance at all the Railway ter-
mini. Cabs are cheaper for single
travellers, or any number up to four, with
luggage. For parties of more than four,
the family omnibuses are preferable, the
usual prices being, for six seats, with one
horse, 5 francs ; for 14 seats, with two
horses, 8 francs.

Ordinary Cabs, "voitures de place,"
charge according to the number of horses ;
if holding three persons, \y z francs the
course, or 2 francs per hour ; if holding
five persons, i franc 70 centimes the
course, or 2 francs 25 centimes, the hour.

Better Cabs, "viotures de remise," if
holding three persons, charge i franc 80
centimes the course, or 2 francs 25 cen-
times the hour ; if holding five persons,
2 francs the course, or 2^ francs the hour.

Luggage is charged extra, 25 centimes
each large package.

A Gratuity, " pourboire," of a few sous,
or centimes, is always expected over and
above, by Cabby.

Omnibuses cross the city in all direc-
tions, fare 30 centimes, or six sous, with
tickets of correspondence. Exterior,
" impe'riale," without ticket of correspon-
dence, half-price.

Hotels are of all kinds to suit all tastes.

Restaurants give breakfasts, dinners,
etc., as in the hotels.

Cafes chiefly differ from restaurants in
being more popular, and less pretentious.

Furnished Lodgings, "maisons me-
ublee's," or Apartments, quite as private as
though commanding the whole house,
present themselves in all directions.
Complete cleanliness, the utmost comfort,
even luxury, and, above all, independence

PRANCE.

attach to the "appartements" of Paris.
Caution however must be exercised in
starting fair with a complete list of the
furniture, &c., noting whatever is imper-
fect, as otherwise, when giving up posses-
sion, heavy charges may possibly be made
for alleged damages, which the law is very
strict in enforcing. The keeper of the
entry, or " concierge," who takes charge of
the occupants' letters, parcels, cards, &c.,
must be conciliated, having it obviously in
his power to be excessively disagreeable.

Metropolitan Police, " sergents de ville,"
patrolling the streets, are particularly
polite and obliging, always prompt to give
any information or aid that may be re-
quired.

" Cabinets" for the convenience of the
public, at 15 centimes, or 3 sous entry,
are found in all the " Passages" near the
Theatres, and in the environs of the
Palais Royal.

EMBASSIES.

Great Britain, 39, Rue de Faubourg St.
Honore.

United States of America, 75, Avenue de 1'
Imperatrice (entrance, 2, Rue Spontini).

And all other countries are equally repre-
sented.

CHURCHES.

English Embassy, 39, Faubourg St. Honore.
Hours, 11.15 a - m - anc * 3 P >m<

English Episcopal, 10, Avenue Marboeuf.
Hours, II a.m. and 3. 30 p.m.

English Episcopal, Rue d'Aguesseau. Hours,
11.30 a.m., 3.30 p.m. and 8 p.m.

Church of Scotland, Chapelle de 1'Oratoire,
opposite the Louvre, entry through the
garden, 162, RueRivoli. Hours, II a.m. and
3 P.m.

American Episcopal, Rue Bayard, Avenue
Montaigne. Hours, 11.30 a.m. and 4 p.m.

American Chapel, 21, Rue de Berri, Champs
Elysees. Hours, 11.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.

Congregational Chapel, 23, Rue Royale,
facing the Madeleine. Hours, 11.30 a. m. and
7. 30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, 4, Rue Roquepine, next
41, Boulevard Malesherbes, near the Madeleine.
Hours, 11.30 a.m. and 7.30 p,m.

CLUBS.

Jockey Club. I bis, Rue Scribe, near the New
Opera.

Sporting Club, Boulevard des Capucines.

And many others, needless to be catalogued
here, to which may be added the well-known

Reading Room, at Galignani's, 224, Rue
Rivoli.

RACES.

Horse-races and Steeple-chases are directed
by the Jockey Club of Paris, organized in the
year 1833. There are three meets annually ;
the Spring-meeting in April, the Summer
meetings in May or June ; and the Autumn-
meetings in September or October. The
localities are in the neighbourhood of Paris,
viz. : Longchamps, Vincennes, Chantilly and
La Marche. They are the most fashionable
of occasions; "the world" and the "half-
world" of Paris and elsewhere being there "en
grande tenue" The courses themselves are
most picturesque, and the scene most animated.
There are about 20 meetings in the year. The
"Grand Prix de Paris," 100,000 francs, is the
most important event of the whole European
racing-season, and many of the leading race-
horses of England are frequently entered for it.
The absolutely world- wide interest it excites
demands a further notice of

THE GRAND PRIX DE PARIS.

This is the greatest sporting occurrence of the whole
year next to the English Derby. This is the occasion
when Paris openly and avowedly imitates everything
English, and the object nearest a Frenchman's heart
at this season is attained if you tell him that " The
Grand Prix " resembles " le Derby." It may not
equal the great English race in its leading features,
but it possesses many merits of its own which make it
a better day's sport, so far as the enjoyment of the
mere visitor is concerned.

It would be strange indeed if the spectators of Ascot
who witness the great international race at Paris wore
to abstain from instituting a comparison between the
characteristic scenes of the English and the French
race-course, representing the two capitals of the
greatest nations of "Western Europe. The decorum
and tranquillity of Longchamps contrasts with the
boisterous gaiety of Ascot ; the heartiness and
appreciation of " Sport " amongst the English
race-going community with the cold propriety of tho
French crowd. There is an enormous throng of
pleasure-seekers, a highly fashionable assemblage,
headed by the President of the Republic, and, in tho
Ladies' Grand Stand, an array of the most ravishing
combinations of colours and costumes. There arc
wanting the two leading characteristics of the English
sporting festival that rollicking joviality to which
the British abandon themselves on the Derby Day,
and that genuine love of the horse which is at the
foundation of the British institution of the race-course.

Long before the hour of the races, the noble avenue
from the Place de la Concorde, which leads through
the Champs Elyse'es, under the Arc de 1' Etoile, right
to Longchamps, is a moving mass of vehicles. Every
variety of conveyance is pressed into service, and tho
magnificent state-equipages of the President and
Foreign Nobles, are mixed up with the common third-

FHANCE.

class Victorias hired for the day. Although nothing
of the nature of an omnibus is permitted to proceed
along the great avenue, it is sometimes difficult for
the most skilful driver to make any progress. Not-
withstanding this, there is nothing like confusion.
Everything is conducted with an order and precision
which become monotonous. There are no songs, no
fun, none of those good-natured sarcastic salutations
with which such jovial spectators as Mr. Bob Sawyer
and his followers enliven the journey along the Epsom
road. The field itself presents a picture of rare
beauty, but with nothing of the character of an
English race-course. There are none of the booths
and tents which afford such a variety of entertainment
between the events of the day on Epsom Downs, not
even a band of music to distract the mind of the
betting man, or to afford to the ladies a pretext for
conversation. And yet the natural features of the
place, and the crowded stands, are actually sufficient
attractions to relieve the eye between the races.

In the elegant tribunes are seen the President, large
numbers of Foreign Notabilities, most of the prominent
men of France, Deputies of the most opposed political
sympathies, but the centre of attraction is the ladies'
tribune, where the scene is utterly dazzling. Many
of the fair adopt the colours of their favourite horses.
The tout-ensemble is indescribable. The effect of the
whole seems to show that at length something like
perfection in the blending of colours in female dress
has been attained. To convey anything like any of
the impressions produced by a glance at this privileged
place cannot be attempted, words cannot paint the
ravishing pMure.

There will be over a hundred thousand people on the
course. The great bulk of the crowd is concentrated
on that part of the pelouse surrounding the winning-
posts, but the dense multitude, as viewed from the
Grand Stand, stretches away as far as the windmill
on the left, and to the very outer limits of the course
on the right. The event and its concomitants must
be seen to be anything like appreciated.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF PARIS.

Situation. Paris is situated in the depart-
ment of the Seine. The river divides the city
into two nearly equal parts. The north side is
the richer and more fashionable. The position
is that of a circular basin, bounded north, by
the heights of Montmartre and St. Chaumont ;
east, by those of Belleville and Menilmontant :
south, by those of Ivry and Bicetre ; west, by
those of Meudon, Bellevue and St. Cloud.

Extent. Paris covers 42,000,000 square
yards. It contains about 50,000 houses, and
it has a population of nearly 2,000,000.

Soil and Climate. The soil is chalky. The
climate, mean temperature, 51 Fahrenheit;
in spring, 50 ; in summer, 65 ; in autumn,
52 ; in winter, 38 Fahrenheit.

Paris as a Sea-port. The rendering of the
Seine navigable for sea-going vessels will un-
doubtedly be a feature of the present century.
The river of Paris is but sixty-five feet above
the level of the sea ; and the distance to the
ocean at Havre is but 120 miles in a straight

line, or, following all the sinuosities of the
stream, 210 miles. The distance can readily
be diminished, and the depth of water through-
out readily increased. The average size of
French vessels is small, being under 300
tons. It is only a question of expenditure,
which is in course of being met.

Paris as a Head-quarters. The European
events of which Paris has been the stage, the
developments of civilization to which it has
conduced, the wonders of art and industry
which it contains, the agreeable life which it
presents, all combine to make it one of the
most remarkable and attractive cities, to which
the attention of the whole world continually
turns.

BRIEF HISTORICAL NOTICES OF PARIS.

Paris was first called Lubetia, from the
muddy soil on which it was reared. In the
time of Julius Caesar it was a small town,
occupying only the little isle in the Seine
called still "the Cite." It was ruled by the
Romans for five hundred years. The Emperor
Julian lodged in the Palais des Thermes, of
which a part remains to the present. The
Emperors Valentinian and Gratian also lived
at Paris. Attila threatened it in the year 451,
but the prayers of Sainte Gene vie ve were
supposed to have turned him aside, and the
city has accordingly remained under the
patronage of that saint ever since. Clovis
entered Paris, after the Battle of Soissons, in
the year 511, and made it his capital. It
became a place of great importance under
Charlemagne in the eighth century. It was
frequently besieged by the Normans in the
latter half of the ninth century. Philip
Augustus paved the streets, and built the
Old Louvre, in the twelfth century. The
University of Paris was founded in the
thirteenth century, and numbered soon
20,000 students. The Parliament was insti-
tuted, and the first meeting of the States-
General was held, in the year 1302. The
English took Paris in the year 1420, and it
remained in their power until the year 1436,
when it was recovered by King Charles
the Seventh, under the inspiration of Joan of
Arc, the Maid of Orleans. It saw the
Massacre of St. Bartholomew in the year
1572. Louis the Fourteenth removed the
seat of government to Versailles in the year
1681, and Paris did not recover its ancient
privilege till the year of the First Revolution,
1789. The forts were reared between the
years 1841 and 1843, under the influence of
M. Thiers. After the accession of the

FHANCE.

Emperor Napoleon the Third, old houses
were gradually pulled down, paved streets
macadamised and asphalted, a new Paris,
constructed under the direction of Baron
Haussmann, and additions made in every
direction to the beauty of the city, giving
fair colour to modern Paris styling itself " the
First City of the World."

TO SEE PARIS IN ONE DAY.

For the following celebrated itinerary,
enabling the Tourist who has but a single day
at his disposal to command the Principal
Objects of Note, and a General Idea of this
great city, we are indebted to the " Practical
Guide for Tourists." This scheme is so well
known, and has been so abundantly proved to
be the best-planned in consecutive order, that
it were idle to attempt any other. It is
defined to be "active, but quite feasible." Of
course it must be understood that the Sight-
seer employs a good open cab to attend on him
throughout the day, beginning at nine o'clock
and finishing at half-past six.

The Chapelle Expiatoire: see it in 15 minutes.
Thence, drive, in 5 minutes, to

The Madeleine : see it in 15 minutes. Thence, drive,
in 1 hours, by the Champs Elysees, and

Arc de 1' Etoile, to

The Chapelle de St. Ferdinand : see it in 15 minutes :
back by

The Tuileries Garden, Rue de Rivoli, to

The Louvre : see it in 1 hour. Thence, drive, in 20
jninutes, past

The Palais Bourbon, formerly Palais Legislatif , and

The Champ de Mars, to Napoleon's Tomb at the
Invalides : see it in hour. Thence, drive, in hour,
past

The Church of St. Sulpice, stopping 5 minutes, to

The Luxembourg Palace : see it in 1 hour. Thence,
drive, in 5 minutes, to

The Pantheon : eee.it in 15 minutes. Thence, close
by, to

The Church of St. Etienne : see it in 10 minutes.
Thence, drive, in 5 minutes, to

The Thennes, Hotel Cluny : see it in hour. Thence,
drive, in 5 minutes, to

The Morgue : see it in 5 minutes. Thence, drive, in
5 minutes, past the Palais de Justice, to

The Sainte Chapelle; see it in 20 minutes. Thence,
drive, in 5 minutes, to

N6tre Dame : see it in 15 minutes. Thence drive in
40 minutes past the Church of St. Germain 1' Auxer-
tois, the Tour de St. Jacques, the Hotel de Ville, to

The Church of St Gervais : see it in 5 minutes, and
past Abelard and Heloi'se's house to

The Jardin des Plantes: see it in 30 minutes.
Thence, drive, in 1 hour, past

The Place de la Bastille, and along

The Boulevards, by

The Bourse, to

The Palais Rojal.: see it: and dine there at C.30.

TO SEE PARIS IN TWO DAYS.

FIRST DAY

The New Opera.

The Church of La Trinite.

The Church of Notre Dame de Lorette.

The Pare de Monceaux.

The Chapelle Expiatoire.

The Church of St. Augustin.

The Madeleine.

The Russian Chapel.

The Place Vendome.

The Rue St. Honore.

The Church of St. Roch.

The Palais Royal.

The Bibliotheque.

The Bourse.

The Halle au Big.

The Halles Centrales.

The Church of St. Eustache.

The Fontaine des Innocents.

The Louvre.

The Church of St. Germain 1* Auxerrois.

The Tour de St. Jacques.

The Rue de Rivoli.

The Place de la Concorde.

The Champs Elysges.

The Arc de 1' Etoile.

The Chapelle de St. Ferdinand.

The Bois de Boulogne.

SECOND DAY.

The Garden of the Tuileries. %

The Hotel des Invalides.

The Tomb of Napoleon the First.

The Palace Bourbon.

The Legion d' Honneur.

The Church of Ste. Clotilde

The Musee d' Artillerie.

The Church of St. Sulpice.

The Luxembourg Palace and Garden.

The Thennes, Mus6e de Cluny.

The Sainte Chapelle.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame.

The Morgue.

The Church of St. Etienne.

The Pantheon.

The Gobelins, manufacture of tapestry.

The Ecole Polytcchnique.

The Marche" aux Chevaux.

The Jardin des Plantes.

The Church of St. Gervais.

The Place de la Bastille, Colonne de JuiUeL

The Square du Temple.

The Chateau d' Eau.

The Portes St. Denis and St. Martin.

The Cemetery of Pdre La-Chaise.

TO SEE PARIS IN A WEEK.

FIRST DAY.

The New Opera.

The Madeleine.

The Church of St. Augustin.

The Chapelle Expiatoire.

The Pare de Monceaux.

The Russian Chapel.

The Rue Royale.

The Place de la Concorde.

The Tuileries Garden.

The Place Vendome.

PRANCE.

The Champs Elysees.

The Arc de 1' Etoile.

The Chapelle de St. Ferdinand.

The Bois de Boulogne.

SECOND DAY.

The Rue de Rivoli.

The Rue St. Honore\

The Church of St. Roch.

The Palais Royal.

The BibliothSque.

The Bourse.

The Halle au Ble".

The Louvre.

The Church of St. Germain 1' Auxerrois.

The Fontaine du Chatelet.

The Tour de St. Jacques.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame.

The Morgue.

The Jardin des Plantes.

THIRD DAY.

The Roman House.

The Maison de Francois I.

The Quays and Bridges from the Pont des Invalidcs

to the Quai Conti.

The Palais Bourbon (Corps Le"gislatif).
The Legion d' Honneur.
The Palais d' Orsay.
The Palais des Beaux-Arts.
The Institute.
The Mint.

The Chuife. of St. Germain des Pres.
The Church of St. Thomas d' Acjuin.
The Muse"e d' Artillerie.
The Church of Ste. Clotilde.
The Hotel des Invalides.
The Tomb of Napoleon the First.
The Champ de Mars.
The Ecole Militaire.
The Abattoir de Grenelle.
The Fontaine, Rue de Grenelle,
Rail to Passy and Auteuil.

FOURTH DAY.

The Sainte Chapelle.

The Church of St. Severin.

The Thermes, Muse"e de Cluny.

The Ecole de Medecine.

The Church of St. Sulpice.

The Luxembourg Palace and Garden.

The Observatory.

The Catacombs.

The Boulevard de Sevastopol.

The Sorbonne.

The Pantheon.

Th; Church of St. Etienne.

The Ecole Polytechnique.

The Marche aux Chevaux.

The Church of St. Marcel.

The Church of St. Medard.

The Gobelins Manufactory.

FIFTH DAY.

The Church of La Trinite 1 .

The Church of Notre Dame de Lorctte.

The Abattoir Montmartre.

The Church of St. Eugene.

The Church of St. Vincent de Paule.

The Portes St. Denis and St. Martin.

The Halles Centrales.

The Fontaine des Innocents.

The Church of St. Merri.

The Church of St. Gervais.

The Church of St. Paul.

The Place de la Bastille.

The Archives.

The Square du Temple.

The Arts and Metiers.

The Chateau d' Eau.

The Cemetery of Pere La-Chaise.

SIXTH DAY.

The Buttes Chaumont.
Excursion to St. Denis.
St. Germain.
St. Cloud.

Versailles.

THE DAYS AND THE HOURS

at which the Principal Objects of Interest are
open. Arranged Alphabetically for conveni-
ence of reference.

Arc de Triomphe de 1' Etoile. All through the day.
Free.

Artillery Museum. Thursday, from 12 to 4 o'clock.
Free.

Bibliotheque Nationale. Tuesday and Friday, from

10 to 3 o'clock. Free.

Bourse, or Exchange. Daily, from 1 to 5 o'clock*
Free.

Catacombs. By order.

Cemetries. All through the day. Free.

Chapelle de St. Ferdinand. All through the day,
Free.

Churches. All through the day. Free.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. Thursday and
Sunday, free. Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 1 franc.
From 10 to 4 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Daily, from 10 to 4 o'clock.
Free.

Ecole de Medecine, Museums Orfila and Dupuytren.
By order, from 11 to 3 o'clock.

Gobelins Manufacture and tapestry. Monday, "Wed-
nesday, and Saturday, from 2 to 4 o'clock in summer,
(1 to 3 o'clock in winter). Free.

Hotel de Cluny. Daily from 11 to 5 o'clock. Free.

Hotel des Invalides. Daily, Sundays excepted, from

11 to 5 o'clock. Free. (Tomb of Napoleon the First.
Monday and Thursday, from 12 to 3 o'clock. Free.
Other days, by order, from 1 to 4 o'clock).

Hotel des Monnaies, Mint. Tuesday and Friday,
from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Jardin des Plantes. All through the day to 5 o'clock.
Free. (Galleries of Anatomy, Zoology, Botany, Geo-
logy, and Mineralogy, Tuesday, Thursday, and
Sunday, from 2 to 5 o'clock. Free).

Jardin des Tuileries. All through the day. Free.

Jardin du Luxembourg. All through the day. Free.

Jardin d' Acclimatation, Bois de Boulogne. Daily,
1 franc.

Louvre galleries. Daily, except Monday, from 12 to
4 o'clock. Free.

Luxembourg Palace. Daily, from 10 to 4 o'clock.
Free. Gallery of Paintings. Daily, except Monday,
from 10 to 5 o'clock. Free. Garden, see under the
head " Jardin."

Manufactories, see tinder the head "Gobelins,"
"Sevres," "Tobacco."

Mineralogy and Geology Museum. Tuesday, Thurs-
day, and Saturday, from 11 to 3 o'clock. Free.

PEANCE.

Mint, see under the head " Hotel des Mommies."

Museums, see under the head "Artillery," " Ecole d
Medecine," " Louvre," " Luxembourg," " Mineral-
ogy."

Palais-Royal. All through the day. Free.

Pere La-Chaise, see under the head " Cemeteries.

Sainte Chapelle. Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday,
Sunday, from 11 to 4 o'clock. Free. (On other days,
a fee.)

Sevres, Porcelain manufactory. Monday, Thursday
and Saturday. From 11 to 3 o'clock. Free.

St. Denis, Abbey. Monday, "Wednesday, Friday,
Sunday. From 11 to 4 o'clock. Free.

Tobacco Manufactory. Daily. Free.

Tomb of Napoleon the First, see under the head
"Hotel des Invalides."

Versailles, Palace and Garden. Daily, except
Monday, from 11 to 5 o'clock. Free. (Trianon
Palaces, Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Free.)

Vincennes, Chateau, and Chapel. Daily. By order,
from 12 to 4 o'clock. Park, all through the day. Free.

GUIDE FOR EACH DAY IN THE

WEEK.

MONDAY.

Jardin des Plantes, Garden only, all through the
day to 5 o'clock.

Luxembourg, Garden only, all through the day.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Gobelins, from 2 to 4 o'clock in summer (1 to 3
o'clock in winter.)

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 1 franc, from
10 to 4 o'clock.

Hotel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock

Tomb of Napoleon the First, from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 2 to 4 o'clock.
Park aU through the day.

St. Denis, Abbey, from 11 to 4 o'clock,

SSvres, Porcelain manufactory, from 11 to 3 o'clock.

Churches, all through the day.

Cemeteries, all through the day.

TUESDAY.

Jardin des Plantes, garden aU through the day, to
5 o'claek. Galleries of Anatomy, Zoology, Botany,
Geology and Mineralogy from 2 to 5 o'clock.

BibliothSque Rationale, from 10 to 3 o'clock.

Hotel des Monnaies, from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 1 franc, from 10 to

4 o'clock.

Muse"e des Mines, Mineralogy, from 11 to 3 o'clock.

Hfitel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Paintings,
from 11 to 5 o'clock. Garden, all through the day.

Sainte Chapelle, from 11 to 4 o'clock.

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 12 to 4 o'clock.
Park, all through the day.

Versailles, Palace, Garden, and Trianons, from 11 to

5 o'clock.

Churches, all through the day.
Cemeteries, all through the day.

WEDNESDAY.

Jardin des Plantes, Garden only, all through the
day to 5 o'clock.

Gobelins, from 2 to 4 o'clock in summer (1 to 3
o'clock in winter).

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Hotel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Paintings
from 10 to 5 o'clock. Garden all through the day.

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 4 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux- Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 2 to 4 o'clock.
Park, all through the day.

St. Denis, Abbey, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Versailles, Palace and Garden, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Churches, all through the day.

Cemeteries, all through the day.

THURSDAY.

Jardin des Plantes. Garden all through the day to
5 o'clock. Galleries of Anatomy, Zoology, Botany,
Geology, and Mineralogy, from 2 to 5 o'clock.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Musee d' Artillerie, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Musee des Mines, Mineralogy, from 11 to 3 o'clock.

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Painting?,
from 10 to 5 o'clock. Garden, all through the day.

Hotel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Tomb of Napoleon the First, from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Sainte Chapelle, from 11 to 4 o'clock.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 2 to 4 o'clock.
Park all through the day.

Sevres, Porcelain manufactory, from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Versailles, Palace, Garden, and Trianons, from 11 to
5 o'clock.

Churches, all through the day.

Cemeteries, all through the day

FRIDAY.

Jardin des Plantes. Garden only, all through tho
day.

Bibliothe'que Rationale, from 10 to 3 o'clock.

Hotel des Monnaies, Mint, from 12 to 3 o'clock.

Hotel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, from 10 to 4'o' clock. Paintings,
from 10 to 5 o'clock. Garden all through the day.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 12 to 4
o'clock. Park, all through the day.

St. Denis, Abbey, from 11 to 4 o'clock.

Versailles, Palace and Garden, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Churches, all through the day.

Cemeteries, all through the day.

SATURDAY.

Jardin des Plantes. Garden only, all through tucs
day.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 1 franc, frora
10 to 4 o'clock.

Musde des Mines, Mineralogy, from 11 to 3 o'clock.

Gobelins, from 2 to 4 o'clock in summer (1 to
3 o'clock in winter.)

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Hotel des Invalides, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, from 10 to 4 o'clock. Painting?,
from 10 to 5 o'clock. Garden, all through the day.

Ecole des Beaux-Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Sainte Chapelle, from 11 to 4 oclock.

Vincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 2 to 4
o'clock. Park, all through the day.

FKANCE.

Sevres, Porcelain manufactory, from 11 to 3 o'clock.
Versailles, Palace and Garden, from 11 to 5 o'clock.
Churches, all through the day.
Cemeteries, all through the day.

SUNDAY.

Jardin des Plantes. Garden all through the day
to 5 o'clock. Galleries of Anatomy, Zoology, Botany,
Geology, and Mineralogy, in ditto, from 2 to 5 o'clock.

Conservatoire des Arts ct Metiers, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Louvre, from 12 to 4 o'clock.

Luxembourg Palace, fi-om 10 to 4 o'clock. Paintings
from 10 to 5 o'clock.-=-Garden, all through the day.

Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 5 o'clock.

Ecole des Beaux- Arts, from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Sainte Chapelle, from Ito 4 o'clock.

Yincennes, Chateau and Chapel, from 2 to 4 o'clock.
Park all through the day.

St. Denis, Abbey, from 11 to 4 o'clock.

Versailles, Palace, Garden, and Trianons, from
11 to 5 o'clock.

SPECIAL ADVICES TO SIGHT-SEERS IN PARIS.

The Principal Objects of Interest are well-
known, and are here necessarily indicated.
But it must be stated that visits may be
made with very enhanced pleasure and
advantage to Places not generally pointed out
in Parisian guide-books. The chief Fancy-
shops contain treasures of art, which are shown
most obligingly even to those who do not
propose to purchase. In no known city is
there so large a public display of everything
saleable, from the least-costly object to the
most expensive. On the Boulevards, in the
Palais Royal, by the Bourse, in the Rue de
Rivoli, the Rue de la Paix, etc. , the exhibition
of Jewellery and Fancy-articles is quite unique ;
these locales are the favourite resorts of visitors
at Paris. Everybody knows what is meant by
"articles de Paris," and is aware that the
Parisians, although hard run by intelligent
and wealthy rivals in London, Vienna, and
elsewhere, have not yet been surpassed in the
production of tasteful and artistic trifles in the
various departments of Decoration. If the
Mintons, Wedgwoods, and Elkingtons of
England point with pride to English productions
in pottery and electro-ware, Paris replies with
a smile that the foremost decorative artists in
the potteries of Staffordshire and the metal-
working ateliers of Birmingham have been
Frenchmen. Paris is unsurpassable in bronzes,
and oxydised silver, cloisonnes and champ-
leves enamels, Palissy and Gien ware, faience
de Nancy and Sevres china, Gobelins tapestry
and Aubusson carpets, embroidery, mirrors,
wood-carvings, inlaid cabinets, Lyons silks
and Valenciennes lace, preserved provisions,
sweetmeats, chocolate, surgical instruments,
clocks, imitation pearls and jewellery, fans,
high-heeled boots, chandeliers, pianofortes,

kid gloves, ribbons, feathers, and dolls. Others
come very near her in many of these speciali-
ties, but no nation has yet overtaken her in
the pursuit of those arts which minister to
Luxury. The great Workshops are full of
interest. The Railway Tcnnini are worthy
of note. The Wine-cellars are "wonderful."
The Barracks, or "casernes," are important
features of the city. The Bazaars, Mont-
martre, Bonne Nouvelle, and other districts,
teem with the most ingenious and attractive
articles. The Fountains, all over the city, are
distinctive in their construction, and give a
charm to every place in which they appear.
The Cafes, on the Boulevards, etc., are of
splendour unequalled anywhere else ; at night,
lighted-up by countless jets, they are more
like fairy-scene than common life. They are
the out-door home of the Parisians. Crowds
sit in front of them, taking refreshments,
smoking, etc. The mirrors, the brilliant
lighting, the sitting throngs, the moving
throngs, the trees with which the Boulevards
are planted waving above all, make such a
many-coloured picture as cannot be found in
any other part of Europe.

THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST

alone can be here described, and this must be
done briefly. But the visitor has only to refer
to our Outlined Itineraries already given, for
One Day, for Two Days, for Five or Six Days,
according to the time at disposal, which, with
the following Alphabetical Descriptions adding
all that is necessary, will make the stranger
complete master of the position.

ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L'ETOILE.

Champs Elysees.

So called from the ' ' star-like" radiation of
the roads around it. One of the finest Tri-
umphal Arches in the world. It was begun by
Napoleon I., in the year 1806, to celebrate his
victories; it was completed in the year 1836.
It cost ^418,000. Its bas-reliefs represent the
Wars of the Republic and of the Empire, from
the year 1792 to 1815. The view from the top
is beautiful.

ARTILLERY MUSEUM.

Place St. Thomas d'Aquin.

The Musee d'Artillerie contains one of the
most complete collections of Arms extant from
the earliest period of human ingenuity in this
department of art and science. There are four
galleries.

64-

..... -Hallway. Railway Station. = OnmLbiuiHoute w Trtnmvay.

P A

I S

IMile

Thomson Br-o&terjt.

PRANCE.

AUTEUIL.

pretty outskirt, with handsome villas and
Steeple-chase ground. Served both by Rail-
way and Omnibus.

BALLS.

Public Balls form a most important feature
of Parisian Habits and Existence.

THE BAL MASQUfi

of the Opera is famous all the world over. The
other principal

WINTER BALLS

are those of the

Casino, Ruo Cadet.

Salle Valentino, Rue St. Honore.

Closerie de Lilas.

Carrefour de 1'Observatoire.

Even more wondrous are the open-air

SUMMER BALLS

described fully under the head, to which refer,
of the

Jardin Mabille, Champs Elysees.

Chateau des Fleurs, Champs Elysees.

Closerie de Lilas, Carrefour de 1'Observatoire.

Chateau Rouge, Chaussee Clignancourt.

BANK OF FRANCE.

The account for a single average week of the
current year is subjoined. It is official. And
the interest that attaches to it in very many
important points of view need scarcely be
pointed out.

Cash and Ingots in Paris and the

branch-banks -

Bills due yesterday to be paid to-day

Commercial Bills in Paris- - -

Treasury Bonds ....

Bills in branch-banks ...

Advances on coin and ingots - -

Do. in the branch-banks - -

Do. on French securities - -

Do. in the branch-banks - -

Do. on rail, shares and bonds -

Do. in the branch-banks - -

Do. on Creclit-Foncier Bonds- -

Do. in the branch-banks - -

Do. to State (treaty of June, 1857)

Rentes of the \ Law of May, 183-4

reserve \ Ex-Banks in departs

Rentes, disposable fund -

Rentes immobilised (law of June, 1857

comprising 9,125,000fr. reserve) -

Hotel and furniture of the Bank -

Real property of branch-banks -

Expenses of administration - -

Employment of the special reserve -

Sundries ......

Francs, cts.

1,830,717,710 53

185,334 13

259,503,930 2

556,387,500

216,271,940

9,431,900

11,603,000

26,119,200

16,169,500

15,247,200

12,947,100

j,227,900 _

G(iO,900

66,000,000

10,000,000

2,980,75014

76,329,613 82

100,000,000
4,000,000
3,834,183 _
923,524 97
22,064,209 97
7,232,623 28

3.243.894.019 86

LI.YUII.ITIKS.

Capital of the Bank - - - -
Profits to be added to Capital (Art.
8, of law of June 9, 1857)

re (Law of June, 1857

Reserve in real property -
Special reserve- -
Xotes to bearer in circulation in Paris

and the branch-banks -
Notes to order and endorsed, payable

in Paris and branches -
Interest on securities transferred or

deposited -

Ace. cur. of Treasury Creditor -
Various accounts current -

Do. branch-banks - - - -
Dividends to be paid -
Bills at sight, not available
Discount, and interest in Paris and

branches -

Re-discounts of the last half-year -
Reserve for bills with extended time,

not yet paid -
Sundries ------

182,500,000

8,002,313 54

10,000,000

2,980,750 14

9,125,000

4,000,000

22,004,209 97

2,472,826,784
13,931,244 55

3,730,976 31

140,730,091 35

278,096,776 58

30,036,124

2,651,876

1,926,672 18

G,208,983 4
2,718,255 13

9,951,750 20
41,791,413 87

3,213,804,019

BATHS.

The principal are the
Bains du Palais Royal.
Bains Vivienne.

Bains de la Samaritaine, on the river, near the Pont
Nouf.

Bains Chinois, Rue de la Paix.
Xeothermes, Rue de la Victoire.
Turkish Baths, Rue Vivienne.

BIBLIOTHEQUE NATIONALS.

Rtie Richelieu.

National Library, one of the richest in the
world. It contains 2,000,000 of printed Books,
and 150,000 Manuscripts. Its collection of
Drawings amounts to 1,320,000. Its cabinets
of Coins and Medals, in general, are of great
value.

This Library has just been enriched with a
most complete collection of the Coins and
Medals of the Revolution. The Marquis de
Turgot is the person who has made the present,
which consists of nearly sixteen hundred pieces,
and which he has spent fifteen years in ac-
quiring. Among them are Monies, Medals
of Representatives, Magistrates, etc., Portraits
of Personages who marked that epoch, and, in
short, all the varieties of commemorative pieces
struck to perpetuate the recollection of the
more important facts of that period. Several
of them are very rare, and some are unique.

Also of world-wide fame is the Egyptian
hieratic inscription on a Papyrus twenty-five
feet long, dating from the time of the Pharaohs,
hitherto undeciphered, preserved in this
Library.

FRANCE.

OTHER BIBLIOTHEQUES, LIBRARIES.

The principal are the

Bibliotht'que Stc. Generic" YC, near the Pantheon. It
contains 250,000 volumes.

Eibliotheque de 1' Arsenal, Rue de Sully. It con-
tains 300,000 volumes, and 65,000 manuscripts.

BOIS DE BOULOGNE.

This is a charming place for walks and
drives. The trees were destroyed under the
Commune in the year 1871, to clear the way
for firing equally on the Germans and on the
French army in its approaches. It is best
entered by the Champs Elysees and the Arc de
1'Etoile. It contains lakes, isles, chalets, deer-
park, and cascades at the further extremity
towards Longchamps and Auteuil. There is
a ' ' Jardin d' Acclimatation " near the Porte
des Sablons, of foreign domesticated animals,
an Aquarium, and a Silk-worm Nursery.

BOULEVARDS.

These are wide streets, with magnificent
buildings, extending through and round the
city, handsomely planted. On the chief
Boulevards from west to east, starting from the
Madeleinej the principal objects of attraction,
in order, are the Boulevard des Capucines, the
New Opera, the Rue de la Paix, the Boulevard
des Italiens, the Rue Richelieu, the Boulevards
Montmartre and Poissonniere, the Rue de la
Chaussee d'Antin, the Boulevai'ds St. Denis
and St. Martin, the Theatres Gymnase, Porte
St. Martin, etc., the Portes St. Denis and St.
Martin, the Boulevard du Prince Eugene, the
fount of the Chateau d'Eau, the Caserne du
Prince Eugene, the Boulevards du Temple,
Filles du Calvaire, and Beaumarchais, the
Theatres Gaite, Cirque, etc., the Place de la
Bastille, the Boulevards de Sebastopol and
de Strasbourg intersecting the former from
north and south.

BOURSE.

The Exchange, built in the year 1822. The
Hall is calculated to contain 2,000 persons.
Ladies are not admitted. The business-hours
are more particularly between noon and three
o'clock, p.m.

BRIDGES.

See under the head of " Ponts."

BUTTES CHAUMONT.

See under the head of " Parks."

CATACOMBS.

A subterranean city underlies Paris, of
" dead-men's bones." Open only to order,
and only a few times in the year-

CEMETERIES.

There are three cemeteries in Paris, of which
the most remarkable is the first.

The Cemetery of Pere La-Chaise, beyond
the Place de la Bastille, contains upwards of
17,000 Tombs, the cost of which has been
calculated at j ,000,000 sterling. The most
famous tombs are those of Abelard and
Heloise, the Princess Demidoff, Rachel, the
Rothschilds, Fould, General Gobert, Gall,
Scribe, Marshal Ney, General Foy, Sir Sidney
Smith, Moliere, La Fontaine, Beranger,
Bernardin St. Pierre, Talma, Du Perier,
Bellini, Madame Blanchard, Arago, etc.
There is a very picturesque view from the
chapel surmounting the ascent.

The Cemetery of Montmartre.

The Cemetery of Mont-Parnasse,

CHAMPS ELYSEES.

The great pleasure-ground of Paris, a
delightful promenade and drive extending
from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc
de 1' Etoile. On the right is the Palace of the
Elysee, etc. On the left are the Palais de 1'
Industrie, great exhibition-building of 1855,
the Pompeian House or Maison Romaine,
the House of Francis the First, the Jardin
Mabille, and the Chateau des Fleurs, both the
latter famous for evening open-air balls, etc.
Thronged in the afternoon by Fa hionables
in carriage to and fro the Bois de Be ulogne, or
on foot. In the evening with gas alight,
the Lower classes swarm it, amidst refreshment
stalls, dancing dogs, punch and judies, acrobats,
shooting-boxes, etc,, etc.

See under the heads of "Place de la
Concorde," "Arc de 1' Etoile," "Elysee,"
" Maisons," "Jardin Mabille."

CHAMP DE MARS.

A military space, near the Hotel des
Invalides. The Ecole Militaire is on it, now
a Barrack. Here both Louis the Sixteenth
and Napoleon the First took the oaths to their
respective constitutions. Here the Great
Exhibition-Palace of the year 1867 was reared.
Here, and on the Trocadero height at the
opposite side of the river, is the site for the
Exhibition of 1878.

CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE.

Rue (C Anjou St. ffonore.

This church is a memorial one, erected over

the remains of the guillotined Louis the

Sixteenth, his Queen Marie Antoinette, and

the Swiss Guard who in their service defended

the Tuileries against the Revolutionists of 1 792.

FRANCE.

CHAPELLE DE ST. FERDINAND.

Near the Arc de F Etoik.
Erected on the place where Ferdinand,
Duke of Orleans, eldest son of the King Louis
Philippe, was killed, by his carriage-horses
taking fright, on the 1 3th of July, 1842. He
is not buried here. The cenotaph is after
Ary Scheffer. The Angel is sculptured by
the Duke's sister, the Princess Mary. The
embroideries are the work of Ladies of the
Court. This chapel was consecrated by the
Archbishop of Paris with great ecb.t.

CHAPELLE RUSSE.
Rttssian Church.

This very beautiful ornamental modern
structure is situated between the Pare de Mon-
ceaux and the Champs Elysees, and is a work
of art well worth observing.

CHURCHES GENERALLY.

Classed in consecutive order from West to East.

FROM THE MADELEINE TO
NOTRE DAME.

On the North side of the city.

THE CHURCH OF THE MADELEINE.

Boulevard de la Madeleine.
This is really a temple in the Grecian style.
It was projected by Napoleon I. in the year
1806, to form a Temple to the Glory of the
French Armies. It is a fine building, sur-
rounded by noble Corinthian columns. At
the grand Entrance, the peristyle is surrounded
by an immense alto-relievo representing the
Last Judgment ; the figure of the Saviour in
the centre is 1 8 feet high. The bronze Doors
of the church are sculptured in illustration of
the Decalogue. The interior is extremely
rich, gold and marbles being abundant. In
the chapels are sculptures representing the
Marriage cf the Virgin, by Pradier, and a
series of scenes illustrating the life of the
Magdalen. On the high-altar, in marble, is
the Assumption, by Marochetti. Behind the
altar is a remarkable painting of the Magdalen
at the feet of Christ, surrounded by Apostles,
Joan of Arc, Napoleon I., and other charac-
ters famous in French history.

CHURCH OF ST. AUGUSTIN.

Boulevard Malesherbes.
A very handsome modern building, in the
Fourteenth century style. The paintings of the
69

interior are well worth observation. The
Parisians themselves are divided in opinion 0n
them, some maintaining their effect to be ad-
mirable, and some ridiculous.

CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE.

End of the Rite Laffitte.
A very "elegant" church. It has been
compared to " a boudoir." It contains a good
many French paintings. Its building and
decoration cost ,80,000.

CHURCH OF ST. ROCH.

Rue St. Honors.

Based by Louis XIV., finished in the year
1750. The steps are famous from the fact
of the insurgent mob being here stationed
whom the young Bonaparte cleared away by
cannon, which led to his military rise under
the Directory. There is nothing of beauty
about this church, but the music is celebrated,
and it is famous for aristocratic marriages.

CHURCH OF ST. EUSTACHE.

Near the Holies Centrales.
This is one of the handsomest Parisian
churches, the interior mingling in a very re-
markable manner the Gothic and the Classic
styles. The body of the church was built
between the years 1532 and 1641 ; the Portal
dates from the year 1752 ; and the Chapel of
the Virgin is of the year 1804. The frescoes in
the chapels are in many instances restorations
from the antique, dating from the era of Louis
XIII. The Organ is powerful and famous.

CHURCH OF ST. VINCENT DE PAULE.

Place Lafayette.

This church is built in the style of the
Italian Basilicas of the First centuries. The
pediment is a bas-relief of the apotheosis of the
saint. Inside are large mural paintings, and a
crucifixion in bronze.

CHURCH OF ST. GERMAIN L'AUXERROIS.

Place dii Louvre.

This is the oldest church in Paris. Attri-
buted to the time of Chilperic I. Burnt by
the Commune in 1871. Very old and ugly,
but peculiar. The interior is entirely modern-
ised. In its tower, on the left, hung the fatal
bell whose tocsin sounded the signal to com-
mence the work of massacre on the Eve of St.
Bartholomew, the 23rd of August, in the year
1572, which gave such a deadly check to the
Huguenot or Protestant cause in France, as
already referred to under the head of Brief
Historical Notices.

FRANCE.

CHURCH OF ST. MERRI.
Rue St. Martin.

This church was begun in the year 1520,
and finished in 1612, and completely restored
in 1836. It contains paintings and tombs.

CHURCH OF ST. GERVAIS.

J^hmd the Hotel de Ville.

Built at the end of the Fifteenth century.
"Worthy of notice are the stained-glass of choir
window, the bronze-gilt cross and chandeliers
of the high altar, the wood-carvings of the
stalls, and the Lady-chapel (a fine sample of
the Flamboyant), the pictures in Scarron's
chapel, representing the saints of old in full-
bottomed wigs, but being historical portraits
of the time of Louis XV.

CHURCH OF ST. PAUL.

Rue St. Antoine.

A very fine building, style known as that of
the Jesuits. Here were buried Bourdaloue
the famous preacher, the great Conde, arid
others.

THE SAJNTE CHAPELLE.

Adjoining the Palais de Justice.

A gem of architecture of most extreme in-
terest, a marvel of Gothic art and ornament.
It was built in the year 1245 to receive a relic
of the Cross, a piece of the Crown of Thorns,
and one of the nails employed in the Crucifixion,
obtained by St. Louis from Jerusalem during
the Crusades. The style is eminently Flam-
boyant. Particularly worthy of notice are the
splendid rose-window, the angel on the apse,
the stained-glass windows, the oak-carvings,
etc.

CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME.
Notre Dame de Paris in the Cite.

This church is of world-wide interest. It
stands on an isle of the old Cite. Built
between the Twelfth and Fifteenth centuries.
Gothic style. It has two immense square
towers. Its portals present architectural
wonders. The whole front is most elaborate.
Particularly worthy of notice are the iron
doors, the rose-windows, the north portal
called " porte rouge,'' the stained-glass win-
dows of rare dimensions and excellence,
the sacristy and gorgeous ecclesiastical vest-
ments and utensils, the Archbishops' and
others' monuments, the carved-wood of the
choir stalls, the series of bas-reliefs of the
Fourteenth century, and that of the last Judg-
ment. The Tower may be ascended for a

splendid panorama of the city, and for associa-
tions with Victor Hugo's romance of the
"Hunchback of Notre Dame." The Bells
are famous : the largest, called " the Bourdon,"
was cast in the year 1686, weighs sixteen tons,
and is nine feet in diameter, and the same in
height.

FROM THE MADELEINE TO
NOTRE DAME.

On the South side of the city.

CHURCH OF STE. CLOTILDE.

Place Bdlechasse.

Commenced in the year 1846, finished
in 1857. Grand, and very decorated. The
vault is sustained by 56 pillars. The stained
glass is fine.

CHURCH OF ST. SULPICE.

Near tJie Luxembourg.

' Built between the years 1656 and 1/98. It
has a magnificent front, partly Gothic, partly
modern. It is a specimen of the better style
of Church-architecture of the time of Louis
the Fifteenth. The interior does not corres-
pond with the exterior. Worthy of notice
inside are the vessels for holy-water at the
entry to the nave, being enormous shells from
Venice, presented by that Aristocratic Republic
of old to the French King Francis the First.
The first chapel contains frescoes by Eugene
Delacroix, which are considered to be amongst
the finest of his works.

CHURCH OF ST. GERMAIN DES PRES.
Rue Bonaparte.

This was one of the first parish-churches of
Paris, erected in the year 1001 ; the square
tower dates from the year 990; the choir
belongs to the year 1163. It is noticeable
for several monuments, amongst which are
those of James, Duke of Douglas, of the year
1165, Descartes the philosopher, the Heart of
Boileau, whose body was interred in the
Sainte Chapelle, and Casimir, King of Poland,
who abdicated in the year 1668, and became
Abbot of this church, and died here in 1672.
The whole of the interior has been restored of
late years, in complete harmony with the
antiquity of the edifice. The paintings are
executed in wax (instead of the customary oils),
and are highly thought of by connoisseurs.
And the general effect produced by this
ancient interior is one of eminently solemn
and religious stamp.

FHANCS.

THE PANTHEON.

Church of St. Genevti've

A vast structure with dome. Dedicated in
1764 as a church to the patron-saint of the
city. Turned by the Revolutionists of 1791
into a Temple " to the great men of a grateful
country," and secularized. Reconverted since
to Church uses. Plain in appearance, but
very impressive in its vastness. It has some
good statuary : bas-reliefs of France distribut-
ing laurels to her illustrious, by the sculptor
David, History on the right, Liberty on the left,
St. Genevieve interceding with Attila to spare
the city, as already referred to ; and in the
vaults are monuments to Rousseau, Mirabeau,
Voltaire, etc. The Pantheon was a head-
quarters of the Revolution of the year 1848,
and its walls show the marks of musketry and
cannon. The dome can be ascended.

CHURCH OF ST. ETIENNE DU MONT.

Close to the PantJieon.

It was built in 1537, but the square tower is
200 years earlier. The first stone of the great
entry was laid by the divorced wife of Henry
IV., " a lady more distinguished for her amours
than for her devotions." Particularly worthy
of attention are the stained -glass windows, a
collection of specimens from the greatest
masters of that work of the Sixteenth and
Seventeenth centuries : those highest in the
apse are the earliest ; the rose-window repre-
sents a scene from the Apocalypse ; and the
first window in the choir to the right, represent-
ing the Saviour treading the wine-press ; the
figures said to be portraits of Pope Paul
III., the Emperor Charles V. of Spain, the
King Francis I. of France, and Henry VIII.
of England. The chapel dedicated to St.
Genevieve, and that to the memory of the
Distinguished Dead buried in other churches
since demolished, are also worthy of note.

COLUMNS.
OF THE PLACE VENDOME.

This column was erected by Napoleon I.
out of 1 200 cannon taken by him from the
Anstrians and Prussians in the year 1806. It
was thrown down by the Communists of 1871,
but it has since been reconstructed.

OF THE PLACE DE LA BASTILLE.

This column stands where the ancient Prison
of the Bastille stood, dismantled by the people
at the outbreak of the Revolution of 1789.
Underneath are the remains of those who fell

in the three days' Revolution of July 27-29, in
the year 1830 ; whence the column is entitled
" Colonne de Juillet."

CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS.

Rue St. Martin.

This is a museum of machines, tools, and
apparatus used in Agriculture and in the In-
dustrial arts. The contents are extensive and
well arranged.

ECOLE DES BEAUX-ARTS.

Rue Bonaparte.

A school devoted to the teaching of Painting,,
Sculpture, Architecture, and Engraving. In
the courts are many interesting specimens of
old French architecture. Worthy of particular
note are the gate of the Chateau dAnet, by
Jean Goujon, of the year 1548; the Sistine
Chapel of the Seventeenth century, so called
from its fine copy of Michael Angelo's " Last
Judgment " in the chapel so named at Rome ;
remains of Paris houses of the Fourteenth cen-
tury ; splendid tomb of a Canon of Noyon, of
the year 1351 > copies from the antique, statues,
etc., and above all of, special celebrity, Paul
Delaroche's magnificent painting of the Most
Famous Artists of all time, one of the very-
grandest works of modern art, in the Amphi-
theatre. Here prizes are given, and scholar-
ships at Rome are conferred upon the most
proficient pupils, annually.

ECOLE DE MEDECINE.

Rue de VEcole de M'edecine.

Interesting chiefly to the Profession. The
Museum of Comparative Anatomy, Musee
Orfila, is fine. Close to it,

THE MUSEE DUPUYTREN

is more unique in its wondrous collection of
specimens illustrating all Diseases and Acci-
dents to which flesh is heir.

ELYSEE PALACE.

The Palais de 1'Elysee extends from the
Rue du Faubourg St. Honore to the Champs
Elysees. It is a magnificent and charming
residence, built in the year 1718 for the Comte
d'Evreux. It was inhabited by Madame de
Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV. In 1775
it became the property of the banker Beaujon,
who lavished enormous sums in enlarging and
embellishing it. It then passed into the
hands of the Royal Family, whence it re-
ceived from the Euchesse de Bourbon the
title 1'Elysee- Bourbin. In 1792 it was de-
clared to be National property, and was let to

FRANCE.

adventurers, who converted the Garden into
places of amusement, and the Palace into
public rooms for dancing, gambling, etc.
In 1803 it was bought and inhabited by the
Prince Murat. Then it was transferred to the
Emperor Napoleon I., whose favourite re-
treat it became; it was then called 1'Elysee
Napole"on, and in it he signed his abdication
of the throne in favour of his son. Then
again it became 1'Elysee-Bourbon. The Due
de Berri occupied it till his assassination.
After his election as President of the Re-
public, Louis Napoleon took up his abode in
this Palace, and only left it to take possession
of the Tuileries as Emperor. The Palais was
furnished by the Empress in the most magnifi-
cent manner, the most exquisite tapestries,
etc., being supplied to it from the Gobelins.
Most of the Foreign Sovereigns who visited
Paris were installed in the Elysee. It is now
once more the superb residence and grounds of
the existing President of the Republic.

HOTEL DE CLUNY.
Rue des Mathurins.

This house was formerly an Abbey; its
architecture a combination of Gothic with that
of the era of Francis I., Renaissance; the
celicate tracery of the windows, the spiral
stairs, the antique chapel, the stone open-work
of the roof, are noticeable. There is a vast
Museum of articles illustrative of the Domestic
Life of the Middle Ages, of extreme value and
interest. A special room for the exhibition
of the almost unique collection of arms be-
queathed by M. Cotterrot has been opened in
the current year, well worthy of note. Con-
nected with the Hotel de Cluny is

THE PALAIS DES THERMES,

remains of the Roman Palace of the Em-
peror Julian and the French kings of the first
and second dynasties. Only the Cold Baths
remain perfect. The Warm Baths can be
traced. In the garden are many pieces of
medieval sculpture, and of old Paris.

HOTEL DES INVALIDES.
Facing the Champs Elysees.

One of the grandest buildings and institu-
tions of Louis XIV. Noble in its design of
affording a refuge to soldiers severely wounded,
or after thirty years of active service. It corre-
sponds to the Chelsea Hospital of England.
The great cannons within the entry are only
fired on great occasions. The dining-room,
the kitchen, the bed-rooms, and the old church

are shown. Under the Dome in the new
church, are two of the most famous and mag-
nificent Tombs in the world, shown separately,
and not in connection with the Hotel itself.
(See under the head, further on, of " Tomb of
Napoleon," and "Tomb of Marshal Turenne.")
A curiosity of great historical interest has
recently been deposited in the Museum of the
Invalides, being the armour which the Kin<^
Charles VII. presented to the heroic Maid of
Orleans, and which the latter, after having
been wounded under the walls of Paris, placed
in the Church of St. Denis. It is composed
of plates of steel, weighs over 50 pounds, and
is similar to that in the collection of Pierre-
fonds, which belonged to Joan of Arc when
she fell into the power of the enemy at
Compiegne.

EXCHANGE.

(See under the head of " Bourse.")

FOUNTAINS.

There are thirty -five "Fontaines" in all,
many of great beauty and quaintness. The
following are the best worth being seen :

FONTAINE DES INNOCENTS, Marche des Innocents.
FONTAINE Louvois. Place Louvois.
FONTAINE MOLI&RE, Rue Richelieu.
FONTAINE ST. MICHEL, Quai St. Michel.
FONTAINE ST. SULPICE, Place St. Su'pice.
FONTAINE DE LA VICTOIRB, Place du Chalelet.

GARDENS.

(See under the head of " Jardin.")

GOBELINS.
Rue Mouffetard.

Manufactory of tapestry, named from its
founder, Jean Gobelin, of the Fifteenth centuiy.
The specimens shown are copies from the
paintings of the first masters and schools,
almost equalling the originals in effect. They
are fabrics quite unique in the world.

HALLES.

" The Halles, or Markets of Paris, are the
finest in the world, in fact, they may be
termed Crystal Palaces. Built altogether of
Iron and Glass, these edifices will astonish the
visitor, who should by all means go through
them."

HALLE AU BLfi.
Rue de Viarmes,

This is the corn-market of Paris, a circular
building with twenty-five arched ways, and
twenty-five square windows. The immense
rotunda is circled by a gallery supported on
light columns, and surmounted by a cupola of
76

FRANCE.

iron and copper. The Tower, close by, is alleged
to have formed the observatory of Catherine
de Medicis' Astrologer.

HALLES CENTRALES.
Rue Rambuteau.

Ten enormous structures are reunited under
this title to form the Food-market of Paris.
The cellars underneath are as wonderful as the
area above with the stalls of which they corre-
spond lighted by gas, the fish alive, swim-
ming in marble tanks, and the most complete
appliances for keeping all kinds of food fresh
and sweet.

HOTEL DES MONNAIES.

Quai Conti.

The Mint. A large and handsome building .
Built in the year 1771. It contains fine
museums of Coins and Medals of all countries
and of all ages. In its " Salle Napoleon " is
Canova's famous bust of the First Emperor,
and a cast taken actually from the face twenty
hours after his death at St. Helena.

HOTEL DE VILLE.

The Mansion-house and Guildhall of Paris.
Burnt down by the Communists in 1871.

JARDIN DES PLANT ES.

Opposite the Pont d ' Austerlitz.
This is a Garden of vast extent. It contains
.a Labyrinth, a Bear-pit, many wild and tame
Animals, the richest collection of Plants known,
Museums of Comparative Anatomy, Snake-
house, Bird-house, Monkey-house, Museums
of Zoology, Geology, Mineralogy, Botany,
Anthropology, etc.

JARDIN DES TUILERIES.

Place de la Concorde.

This Garden is a favourite resort of the
Parisians of the fashionable world, hundreds of
elegantly-dressed ladies sitting here for hours
in the open air, nurses, babies, etc. The
grounds are very charming, the walks, the
terraces, the trees, the beds of flowers, the
basins of water, the statues, etc. It opens out
equally to the Rue de Rivoli and to the
Place de la Concorde, Champs Elysees. (See
under both headings of "Place de la Con-
corde" and " Champs Elysees.")

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG.

(See under the head of " Luxembourg.")

JARDIN DU PALAIS ROYAL.

(See under the head of " Palais Royal.")

JARDIN D'ACCLIMATATION.
(See under the head of" Bois de Boulogne.")

JARDIN MABILLE.
Champs Elysees.

This is the principal one of those evening
Open-air Balls which are characterized as
" wonderful places," in which all that the taste
of the Parisians can invent and construct in the
way of brilliant laying-out, lighting, floral
decoration, kiosks, cascades, grottoes, rinks,
etc., is most fully manifested. They are the
nightly resorts of all the world of Paris, and
hosts of the Stranger. The style of dancing
is " vigorous," and the manners of the ladies
who engage in it are " easy." These balls
make no pretension to very rigid etiquette, and,
consequently, attract young men and young
women " anxious to escape the heavy yoke im-
posed by the stern proprieties of respectable
society, who here find themselves at liberty
from all such irksome restraints." "Men may
take their Wives, but they had better leave
their Daughters out of the party," advises a very
serious (if not a very maritally-complimentary)
Authority. " Nevertheless the Mabille is one
of the most interesting places to visit. The
music, the eccentric dancers, the sentimental
damsels, the etc., etc., all contribute to form a
picture that it would not be easy to match
elsewhere."

For the other establishments of Popular
Balls, see under the head of " Balls."

LOUVRE.
Palace and Museums.

The Palace was begun by Francis I., in
the year 1541. Jean Goujon designed and
executed the external sculptures. It was con-
tinued by the succeeding Kings of France.
It was completed by the Emperor Napoleon
III. in 1857, entirely in accordance with the
original plans, accomplishing in five years
more than all his predecessors had effected
during three-hundred. The Old Louvre, for-
merly the residence of the Sovereigns, now
comprises the world-famous galleries which the
government has spared no expense in keeping
up. The MUSEUMS consist of:

Assyrian Antiquities.
Egyptian Antiquities.
Algerian Discoveries.
Sculptures of the Renaissance
Modern Sculptures.
Marble Antiques.
Paintings of the Italian schools.
Paintings of the Spanish school.

FRANCE.

Paintings of the German school.
Paintings of the Flemish school
Paintings of the Dutch school.
Museum of Jewellery.
Museum of Hebrew Antiquities..
Museum of the Kings.
Museum of Mediaeval Art
Museum of Designs.
Museum of the Navy.
Museum of Ethnography.
American Museum.

And amongst the splendidly-decorated and
historically famous ROOMS are those of the

Salle des Caryatides.
Salle de Diane.
Salle des Ernpereura.
Grand Salon Carre".
Galerie Longue.
Salle des Etats.
Galerie des Sept Metre*.
Galerie d'Apollon.
Salle Konde.

Salle des Sept Cheminees.
Salle du Trone.
Appartement d'Henri IV.

KING MESA'S PILLAR,

the oldest deciphered inscription in the world,
the famous stela lately brought to light, is now
placed for public inspection in the Museum of
Hebrew Antiquities of the Louvre. It not
only bears the oldest inscription in the world
as yet deciphered, but it is an historical monu-
ment without rival, being contemporaneous
with the Bible, dating back 900 years before the
Christian era. It is a pillar of black basalt,
having almost the same form as the tables of
the Decalogue. It measures 40 inches in
height, 28 inches in width, and 14 inches in
thickness ; and for 2800 years it has remained
in the same position in the country of the
Moabites, en the shores of the Dead Sea, at
the spot, as is supposed, where the frontier of
their territory joined that of the tribe of
Reuben. The column of Mesa had remained
erect in the full light of day for Twenty-eight
centuries. In the year 1870 M. Clermont-
Gauneau, attached to the French Consulate
at Jerusalem, heard something about a stone
placed at the entrance of a small village near
the Dead Sea, and covered with mysterious
characters. He sent two intelligent Arabs,
with instructions to copy by hand the inscrip-
tion, and the men fulfilled this mission with
great intelligence. The copy and sketch of
the stone which they made are also exhibited at
the Louvre. Eventually, the same enthusias-
tic functionary succeeded in translating the
famous inscription. Brieflv, it refers to King
Mesa, the chief of the Moabites, spoken of in
2 Kings iii. 4.

LUXEMBOURG.
PALACE, MUSEUM, AND GARDEN.

This palace was formerly the residence of
princes. In the Revolution of 1789 it became
a State-prison. Under the Empire it was
occupied by the Chamber of Peers and the
Senate. The Throne-room has been pro-
nounced "the grandest in Europe." The
apartments of the Queen Catherine de Medi-
cis, the original builder, in the years 1615 to
1620, are of much interest.

The Museum consists of a valuable collec-
tion of the finest works of Modern French
Painters, chiefly the living.

The Garden was the most beautiful in Paris ;
now it has been encroached upon for build-
ing. Note-worthy in it are the Rosary, 2000
varieties, the Orangery, the Botanic garden,
and the statue of Marshal Ney, where he was
shot.

MAISONS.

Mansions, of a private character, of the highest
possible interest, especially in such an age of House-
architecture as the present, which should certainly be
seen. The term " Hotel " is applied to the more
distinguished of such private houses, amongst which
the following are the most famous, in alphabetical
order:

Austrian Embassy, the ancient Hotel Conti,
Rue de Grenelle St. Germain.

English Embassy, the ancient Hotel Bor-
ghese, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore.

Hotel d'Albret, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois.
This is of the Renaissance era.

Hotel d'Aquila, "the prettiest house in
the Avenue de ITmperatrice," the statesman
M. Rattazzi's.

Hotel de Bethune, Rue St. Antoine. This
was built for the prime minister of Henri IV.,
Sully.

Hotel Bezenval, Rue de Grenelle. Of the
Eighteenth century.

Hotel Bron, now Convent of the Sacrc
Cceur, Rue de Varennes. Of the Eighteenth
century.

Hotel Carnaralet, Rue Culture Ste. Cathe-
rine. This was the residence of Madame de
Sevigne.

Hotel Fould, Rue du Faubourg St. Ho-
nore.

Hotel Gabrielle d'Estrees, Rue des Francs-
Bourgeois. The facades are of the Renais-
sance.

Hotel deHollande, Rue Vieille du Temple.
This was built in the Sixteenth century, and is
a remarkable sample of the architecture of that
age.

FRANCE.

Hotel Lambert, Rue St. Louis -en-l'lle,
built for the president of that name. Very
famous.

Hotel de la Valette, Quai des Celestins.

Hotel de Luynes, Rue St. Dominique.

Hotel de Ninon de 1'Enclos, Rue des
Journelles.

Hotel Payva, Avenue des Champs Elysees.

Hotel Pereire, Rue du Faubourg St. Ho-
nore. This was built by Visconti, in the
Louis XIV. style, its interior decorations
being accurately copied from the ancient
apartments at Versailles.

Hotel Pourtales, Rue Tronchet. Built by
M. Duban.

Hotel Rothschild, Rue Laffitte, residence
of the Baron James de Rothschild. And a
second

Hotel Rothschild, Rue Taitbout, residence
of M. Nathaniel de Rothschild.

Hotel Thiers, Place St. Georges. And
nearly opposite this another private Hotel, with
fine fa9ade in the Renaissance style.

MAISON FRANCOIS I.

Cours la Reine, Champs Elysees.

A perfect model of the style of the Renais-
sance, a bijou of architecture. It was origi-
nally erected near Fontainebleau, in the year
1523, and transported, stone by stone, to its
present position, in 1826. Faade by the
famous Jean Goujon.

MAISON ROMAINE.

Avenue de Montaigne, Champs Elysees.

Called also " Pompeian House " and "Pa-
lais Pompeien." Built, for the Prince Napo-
leon, by M. Normand, on the model of the
houses of ancient Pompeii. Sold in the year
1866 for the sum of 1,200,000 francs.

MANUFACTURES.

(See under the head of " Gobelins " and
" Sevres.")

MARKETS.

(See under the head of " Halles Centrales "
for Food-markets ; under the head of " Halle
au Ble " for Corn-market.)

CATTLE-MARKETS.

Those at Poissy, Sceaux, and La Chapelle
arc replaced by the one central general market
of La Villette.

HORSE-MARKETS.

Tattersalls, Rue Beaujon, near the Champs
Elysees. For the better class of machiners.
On Thursdays.

Marche* aux Chevaux, Boulevard de FHopi-
tal. For hacks and screws, and all sorts of
inferior horse-flesh and broken-down vehicles.
The dealers are sharp hands, but the police
on the spot are equally so.

BIRD-MARKET.

On the Square St. Martin, on Sundays.

MARCHES AUX FLEURS.

Flower-markets,

Of these there are five. Very pretty to see,
and very indicative of Parisian feeling. They
are chiefly frequented by fair dames, pur-
chasing bouquets, or hiring plants, roses,
pinks, camellias, jasmines, orange-trees, etc.,
in boxes and pots. The quantity sold is sur-
prising. The purchasers belong plainly to all
classes of society, from the Grande Dame
who drives up in her handsome carriage and
pair to the humble Working-girl who comes
to buy some cheap reminder of her " life in
the country."

They are as follows : on the

PLACE DE LA MADELEINE.
PLACE DU CHATEAU D'EAU.
PLACE ST. SULPICE.
NEAR THE HOTEL DE VILLE.
NEAR THE TRIBUNAL DE COMMERCE.

MINERALOGY. MUSEE DES MINES.

Rue d^Enfer.

There are thirteen rooms of Minerals here,
a magnificent collection. Jewels, fossil re-
mains, plans and models, of Mont Blanc, vol-
canoes, coal-pits, furnaces, machinery, etc.

MONCEAUX.
(See under the head of " Parks.")

MORGUE.

Near the Cathedral of Notre Dame.

The Dead-house, to which bodies found
and unclaimed are conveyed and exposed for
identification. They used to be laid out
nakedly. A concession for clothing them has
just been enacted. It is a chamber of horrors.
Most of the bodies are found in the river Seine.
After three days' exposure they are interred at
the charge of the public. The average num-
ber of Males is 500, and of Females sixty, in
the year.

MUSEUMS.

(See under the heads of " Artillery," Hotel
de Cluny," " Luxembourg," " Louvre,"
" Mineralogy," " Jardin desPlantes," "Hotel
82

FEANCE.

iel des Monnaies " or Mint, " Bibliotheques,"
" Ecole de Medecine," and " Conservatoire
des Arts et Metiers.")

OBELISK OF LUXOR.

On the Place de la Concorde. (See under
ilie head of " Champs Elysecs.")

PALACES.

(See under the heads of" Louvre," " Luxem-
bourg," " Tuil cries," "Elysee," "Champs
Elysees," "Ecole des Beaux Arts," "Hotel
de Cluny," " Versailles," " Fontainebleau.").

PALAIS DE JUSTICE.

Near the Sainte Chapelle and Notre Dame,
liurnt by the Communists in 1871.

PALAIS D'ORSAY.
On the Quai d'Orsay.

A fine building. The interior is very rich
and decorated. Here the Conseil d'Etat held
its sittings.

PALAIS BOURBON.
On the Quai d'Orsay.

Formerly occupied as the Chambre des
Deputes, and afterwards the Corps Legis-
latif. The style is that of the Madeleine,
Greek temple. The former Salle des Seances ,
Salle des Conferences, Salle des Pas Perdus,
and Bibliotheque, are the principal rooms.

PALAIS ROYAL.

This is the rendezvous of strangers in Paris.
The elegance of its buildings, the attractions
of its shops, the splendour of its restaurants
and cafes, the crowds of people in its ver-
varying garden and avenues, make its galleries
a vast bazaar equally animated and magnificent,
and a delightful resort for all who seek amuse-
ment or information. Some years ago it had
no competitor in its attractions ; but recently
the central Boulevards have rivalled, if not
eclipsed it. This, however, has peculiarities
which find no parallel anywhere else. Its
aggrandisement and reconstitution out of a
congeries of miserable wooden tenements,
not half a century since possessed by very
doubtful, (/"at all doubtful, characters, are due
to Louis Philippe, who was then living in
the Palace itself. Then arose the reign of its
gambling-houses, dishonour, ruin, and deaths,
which were finally closed in 1837.

The palatial portion, in front, residence of
the Prince Napoleon, was burnt by order of
the Commune in 1871.

The Garden, occupying the inner centre, is
pretty. It was here that the Revolution was
begun by Camille Desmoulins, which led to
the taking of the Bastille in 1789, and
preluded that series of events of the most
astounding nature which culminated in the
fall of the Empire under Napoleon I. at
Waterloo, in 1815.

PARKS.

The chief of those in close connection with
the city are very beautiful resorts, well worth
a visit. They are

THE Bois DE BOULOGNE, which see under
its own heading.

THE PARC DE MONCEAUX, which is beau-
tifully built upon, with trees, flower-beds, river
and bridge, rocks and grotto, ice-house, mauso-
leum, Corinthian colonnade, with basin in
imitation of that for the ancient Naumachiae,
rotunda for the park-keepers, etc.

THE BUTTES CHAUMONT, a park of 55
acres, forming one of the most lovely projec-
tions of the Belleville heights, transformed
into pleasure-grounds. The building at the
point of the promontory is an accurate re-
production of that of the famous Temple of
the Sibyl at Tivoli, near Rome. Flower-beds,
lakes, rivers, grottoes, etc., also here abound.

THE Bois DE VINCENNES, which see under
the head of " Vincennes."

PERE LA-CHAISE. See under the head of
" Cemeteries."

PLACES.

PLACE VENDOME. See under the head of
' Columns."

PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. See under the
head of " Columns."

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. Between the
"Jardin des Tuileries " and the "Champs
Elysees," see under both heads.

This is one of the most charming spots of
the city. The coup d'ceil from it has no
rival. The Guillotine was erected here in the
first French Revolution by which the King
Louis XVI., his Queen, Marie Antoinette,
and 3000 other persons were decapitated.

The Obelisk of Luxor occupies the centre,
presented by Mehemet AH to the French, a
monolith of red syenite, 72 feet high, 7^ feet
wide at the base. Its transport from Egypt
required two years, and cost 2,000,000 francs.

The Fountains are allegorical of Seas and
Rivers.

The eight Statues surrounding it represent the
chief cities of France, viz., Lyons, Marseilles,
Bordeaux, Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lille, and
(ci-devant) Strasbourg.
84

FRANCE.

FONTS (BRIDGES).

Of these there are twenty-seven in all. The
chief is the

PONT NEUF, which unites the two branches
of the Seine. It was formerly covered with
houses, like Old London Bridge. The other
Bridges most worth notice are the

PONT NOTRE DAME.
PONT D'IEXA.
PONT ROYAL.

PORCELAIN MANUFACTURE.

(See under the head of " Sevres.")

PORTES ST. DENIS AND ST. MARTIN.

THE PORTE ST. DENIS, a triumphal arch
or gate on the Boulevard St. Denis, was built
in the year 1672. It represents the crossing
of the Rhine by the great " King Louis XIV.

THE PORTE ST. MARTIN, on the Boulevard
St. Martin, alongside the former Porte, was
built in the year 1674. It represents other
victories of the " Grand Monarque."

ST. CLOUD.

On the outskirts of Paris. It can be reached
either by rail in a quarter of an hour, or by
omnibus in one hour.

It is famous for Royal Chateau, Park,
Cascades, and Country-seats of the wealthy
Parisians ; but it was nearly totally destroyed
by the cannon of the Commune in 1871.

The same railway runs on to Sevres, as
follows :

SEVRES.

Beyond St. Cloud, by rail, a quarter of an
hour ; 8 miles from Paris.

The Porcelain manufactory is the only thing
of note here. It employs usually from 1 50 to 200
work-people. It belongs to the Government.
There are six show-rooms, in which the
costliest works are exhibited : tea-services, for
instance, priced 15,000 francs, etc. In a
commercial point of view, the work -shops are
unproductive. There is Pottery, to illustrate
the wide history of the art, samples from all
countries. The Palissy ware deserves par-
ticularly to be noticed.

The same railway serves Versailles, which
will be found further on, under its own head.

ST. DENIS

can be reached either by rail in twelve
minutes, or by omnibus in half an hour.

The Abbey-church of St. Denis contains
numerous tombs of the Kings and Queens of
France. It is the "Westminster Abbey of

Paris." Here Napoleon I. was married to
Marie Louise, on the ist of April, 1810. The
most famous tombs are those of Dagobert and
his Queen, of the years 638641 ; Louis XII.
and his Queen ; Henry II. and his Queen ;
Francis I. and his Queen ; the Constable du
Guesclin ; the Constable de Sancerre ; forty-
seven monuments to the race of Valois ;
nineteen monuments of the Bourbons, etc.
The Choir, the High-altar, one of the most
beautiful in Europe, the Sacristy, with its
paintings illustrating the history of the Abbey,
the Treasury, and the subterranean Crypt, are
all of the most engrossing interest.

ST. GERMAIN.

In the neighbourhood of Paris.
It can be reached by rail in one hour.
Asnieres and Malmaison are passed en route.

ASNIERES

is a pretty pleasure-place a Parisian
Richmond or Greenwich.

MALMAISON

was the favourite residence of Napoleon I.

ST. GERMAIN-EN-LAYE

is a pretty town, with a Royal Chateau ; the
view from the Terrace of which is held to be
one of the loveliest on earth : it tracks the
winding Seine river, and dominates plains and
villages, and castles, and forests, with Paris
in the distance.

THEATRES.

NEW OPERA, Rue Scribe. One of the most
striking buildings in the world. Opened in
January, 1875. The exterior extremely beau-
tiful and original ; the interior equally so.

THEATRE FRA^AIS, Rue Richelieu. The
leading theatre of France, and of the world,
so far as the talent of the artistes and the
perfection of the management and stage effect
are concerned . Tragedies and Comedies.

THEATRE ITALIEN, Salle Ventadour.
Italian Opera. The most fashionable of all
the opera-houses. Of the highest order of
representation.

OPERA COMIQUE, Place Favart Come-
dies, with singing. Performance of a dis-
tinguished character. The music here is
generally more national than that of the other
theatres.

THEATRE LYRIQUE, for the present trans-
ferred to the Gaite. Admirable management.
Opera. Similar representations to those of
the Opera Comique.

PRANCE.

ODEON, Place de VOdeon. Tragedies,
Comedies, Dramas. A second rank of The"-
tre Francais.

GYMNASE, Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle.
One of the theatres most in vogue. Especially
famous for its Vaudevilles, also Comedies and
Dramas.

VARIETES, Boulevard Montmartre.'Fz.-
mous for amusing Plays, Farces, Vaudevilles,
and the Burlesques of Offenbach and Lecocq.

PALAIS ROYAL, Palais Royal. Same cha-
racter of pieces as the Varietes.

PORTE ST. MARTIN, Boulevard St. Martin.
Celebrated for weighty Melodrama and Fairy
spectacle.

AMBIGU-COMIQUE, Boulevard St. Martin.
Theatre par excellence for Dramas and
Melodramas.

Other theatres are the

GAITE. See above.

VAUDEVILLE.

CIRQUE.

BOUFFES-PAEISIENS, etc., etc.

THE THERMES.

(See under the head of " Hotel de Cluny.")

TOMB OF NAPOLEON I.

Hotel des Invalides.

In the new church, and under the vast dome,
in an open crypt, occupying the very centre,
is the magnificent Tombeau de 1'Empereur,
the Tomb of Napoleon I. His remains were
brought hither from St. Helena, and placed
in this astonishingly beautiful mausoleum.
Above the door are the words from his Last
"Will : " I desire that my ashes may rest on
the banks of the Seine, in the midst of that
French People whom I so well loved." The
walls of the gallery illustrate, by a series of bas-
reliefs, the great works of the dead Emperor,
viz., the end of Civil war, the Concordat, the
Reforms effected, the Council of State, the
Codification of Laws, the University, the Cour
des Comptes, the encouragement of Trade and
Commerce, the Public Works, the Institution
of the Legion of Honour. Twelve statues
surround the sarcophagus, the last works of
Pradier. No expense has been spared to
render this one of the grandest and most
striking mortuary monuments in the world.
The

TOMB OF MARSHALL TURENNE,

200 years old, is under the same Dome des
Invalides as that of Napoleon I. Turenne
was "the greatest captain of his time, and

this monument to him is therefore associated
with the most glorious reminiscences of
French History."

TOUR ST. JACQUES.

Rue de Rivoli.

This Tower is one of the most interesting
monuments of Old Paris, remains of a church
pulled down in the Revolution of 1789.
Height 1 88 feet. It commands a magnificent
view, surpassing that from any other of the
public buildings, from the central position it
occupies. The river Seine can be traced for
many miles on both sides of the city, the
positions of the Bridges, the Thoroughfares,
the Public Gardens, the great Edifices, the
Railways, the Forts, and the low Hills sur-
rounding Paris exhibit themselves from hence
as if they formed a Map beneath the beholder's
eye. The Square surrounding the Tower is
handsomely laid out, fresh-looking, and an
animated quarter usually.

TUILERIES PALACE.

This magnificent building was the residence
of the Empire during the present century. It
was burnt by order of the Commune in the
civil disorders of the year 1871. (See under
the head of "Brief Historical Notices," page
40.)

TUILERIES GARDEN.

(See under the head of " Jardin des Tuileries.")

VERSAILLES

may be reached by rail, from St. Lazare,
passing St. Cloud and Sevres, in fifty minutes,
or by rail from Mont Parnasse in nearly
equal time.

The interest of all the outskirts of Paris
culminates undoubtedly here. Though the
changes even of the current year have worked
wondrous metamorphoses on this most
especial spot, they have but enhanced its
history and interests. The Palace and the
Gardens still exist. The National Assembly
of the French people now sitting here super-
adds a crowning feature to the place. The
"Brief Historical Notices of France "(at page
42) should be referred to.

The village of Versailles was but a petty
hamlet in the year 1627, when the then lord
of the manor, M. de Leomenie, whose father
was one of the victims of the fatal St. Bar-
tholomew's Day's massacre, sold it to Louis
XIII. Whereupon that king built here a
hunting-lodge, the nucleus of what followed.
Louis XIV. conceived the design of making

FEANCE.

this the most magnificent royal residence in
the world. Accordingly, twelve years' inces-
sant labour, and about ^40,000,000 sterling,
were expended upon it, and the Palace was
finished in the year 1670. The King took up
his abode in it, and all the great offices of
the Government were removed hither.
Here the " Great Monarch " resided till that
Mors came which comes equally to great
monarchs and small subjects. Death con-
cluded that king's tenure here, in the year
1715. The Court quitted Versailles for the
seven years of his son's minority which suc-
ceeded. But after these seven years of local
destitution, the Court once more filled the
place, with itself and with the influences which
have never since ceased to affect the state of
France. During the era of Louis XV.
Versailles became a town of 100,000 inhabit-
ants. And here the Court remained till the
First Revolution compelled the unfortunate
Louis XVI. to remove to Paris, where the sins
of his ancestors overtook him and his, and he
expiated them on the Place de la Concorde.

For many years, then, the Palace remained
unoccupied, till Louis Philippe conceived the
grand idea of converting it into a vast
museum of all " the glories " of France. All
the old Paintings, more especially, those that
could be obtained relating to events in French
History, were then immediately allocated to
Versailles, and whole acres of canvas were
painted de novo expressly to fill up the historic
voids. " It would require a volume of hundreds
of pages to enumerate the different rooms and
mention even their principal contents. Those
who would become acquainted with this
wondrous palace must pass many days in
wandering through its endless rooms and
galleries." A very few of the principal there-
fore can only now be added here.

Entering from the Place d'Armes, the great
Court fronts the visitor. It is decorated in
the centre by an equestrian statue of Louis
XIII., while around are ranged sixteen
colossal statues of those great names
Duguesclin, Bayard, Turenne, Conde, Du-
quesne, Duguay-Trouin, Tourville, Suffren,
Suger, Sully, Richelieu, Colbert, Massena,
Jourdan, Montebello, and Mortier.

In the centre of the building is the Grand
Marble Staircase, in the vestibule of which are
statues or busts of Mansard, the architect of
the Palace ; Lenotre, the designer of the
gardens ; La Fontaine, Borleau, Moliere, and
Delille, who sung their poetic praises ; Louis
XIV. and Louis Philippe.
89

At the foot of the stairs Damiens stabbed
Louis XV. with a penknife as the king was in
the act oi stepping into his coach.

The Chapel is quite a gem of its kind.
Notice the high altar, the costly side-altars,
the mosaic pavement. The organ is one of
the finest in Europe. Louis XVI. was
married to Marie Antoinette in this chapel.

The Historical Museum consists of eleven
rooms of paintings, illustrative of the History
of France, from Clovis, in the year 511, to
Louis XIV., in i/oo.

The Theatre is beyond these. In this
assembled the Gardes du Corps on the occa-
sion of the memorable banquet of 1 789, which
led to the First Revolution. Here also the
Queen of England was treated to a banquet on
the 25th of August, in the year 1855. The pit was
then boarded over, and the royal party supped
in the Imperial Box.

The Salons des Croisades. Five rooms
decorated in the Gothic style, the armorial
bearings, coats-of-arms, escutcheous, etc., of the
French celebrities who engaged in those
"Holy Wars" being exhibited in a very
splendid and impressive manner, as well as
statues, old utensils, pictures, and even the
gates (of cedar) of the ancient Hospital of the
Knights of St. John at Rhodes, presented by
the Sultan Mahmood in the year 1836.

Rooms Illustrative of the Modern History
of France. A suite famous for some of the
finest pictures of Horace Vernet, and others ;
amongst which are most noticeable the taking
of the Smalah, with Abd-el-Kader's Harem-
court, Tent, etc., a colossal painting; the
" Battle of the Alma ;" the " Storming of the
Mamelon Vert," and other scenes from the
Crimean campaign, by Yvon; the Siege,
Storming, and the taking of Constantine ; the
" Battle of Ivry," etc.

In the Gallery beyond, the statue of Jeanne
d'Arc, the Maid of Orleans, was sculptured
by the Princess Marie of France, daughter oi
Louis Philippe, to whose chisel is equally due
the celebrated " Kneeling Angel " of the
Chapelle de St. Ferdinand, already referred to
under the head of " Chapelle de St. Ferdinand.

Rooms of Historical Portraits. Eight in
number, on the second floor.

Other Rooms Illustrative of the Modern
History of France. On the first floor. Ten
in number, chiefly illustrating the military
glories of Napoleon I. and the First Empire.

The Salle d'Hercule.$o called from the
ceiling representing the apotheosis of Hercules
painted in 1729. And

FRANCE.

The Salle des EtatS'Generaux.T\\zsQ two
most important rooms now, in the current
history of the existing Republic, are referred
to more fully a little further on.

The Grands Appartements (of Louis XIV.)
occupied the entire of the first floor of the
projecting centre, looking out on the terrace
and gardens. The first five rooms were named
mythologically from the paintings on their
ceilings, Salon de Venus, Salon de Diane,
Salon de Liars, Salon de Mercure, and Salon
d'Apollon. Then came

The Salon de la Guerre.

The Galerie de Louis Quatorze. In this
most of the grand fetes under that monarch
were celebrated.

The Salle des Pendules. So named from
its splendid time-pieces, chief amongst which
is one by Dautliot, a most complicated piece
of mechanism, marking the phases of the
moon, the courses of the planets, the days,
months, and years.

The Bed-Chamber of Louis XIV. The
ceiling is by Paul Veronese, and was removed
to this from the Chamber of the Council of
Ten, at Venice, during the victorious Italian
campaigns of Napoleon I. In the bed Louis
XIV. expired. And from the balcony which
overhangs the Cour de Marbre, according to
the custom on the decease of the Kings of
France, it was the duty of the First Lord of
the Bed Chamber to announce the fact by
breaking his rod of office, and crying out, " Le
Roi est mart I" instantly afterwards laying
hold of a new rod, and crying, " Vive le Roi ! "
which was duly done here in the case under
consideration on September the 1st, in the
year of grace 1715.

The (Eil de Bceuf.Qn this room the oval
window conferred this famous name. It was
the chamber where the Courtiers waited for
admission to the presence of the Grand
Monarch. The Servants' hall, and the hall
for the Gardes du Corps, are the adjoining
rooms.

ThePelits Appartements de Marie A ntoinette.
From this part of the Palace it was that the
Royal Flight was attempted on the night of
the 5th of October, 1 789, which terminated in
the recognition of the fugitives at Varennes,
then- reconveyance to Paris, and subsequent
arraignment, imprisonment, and death by the
guillotine.

The Salle du Sacre de Napoleon. So called
from the colossal painting by David of the
Coronation of the First Emperor and Jo-

scphine at Notre Dame, for which the artist
received .4000. This room was formerly
called the Hall of the Guards, and in it the
kings were accustomed to perform the pious
ceremony on Maunday Thursday of washing
" the poor people's " feet.

The Salle des Cent Suisses, called later
" Salle de 1792." Portraits of distinguished
military men of the Republic (of 1/89) and of
the Empire (that succeeded), such as Berna-
dotte, Murat, Jemot, Soult, Louis Philippe,
the First Napoleon, when Lieutenant-Colonel
of the ist Corsican battalion, etc.

The Galerie de I' Empire. Fourteen rooms
of paintings illustrating the campaigns from
the year 1796 to 1810. Most famous are
those of the ''Battle of the Pyramids," byGros ;
the " Battle of Marengo," by Carle Vernet ; the
<' Field of Austerlitz," by Debret ; the well-
known "Napoleon Crossing the Great St.
Bernard," by David ; busts of the Bonaparte
family, and celebrated contemporaries. Sevres
vases of great beauty, etc.

The Galerie des Marines. Four rooms of
pictures illustrating the Naval History of
France.

The Galerie des Tombeaux. Casts in
plaster of the tombs, monuments, etc., of
Royal and famous French personages.

The Grande Galerie des Batailles. An
immense apartment, 400 feet long, containing
the busts, eighty in number, of Naval and
Military Commanders who fell on the field of
action, and the record of the names of all
others ; the black marble slabs between the
windows enumerating even those who perished
in the Crimean War and in the succeeding
campaign of the North of Italy. It is quite a
Valhalla. Here hung, till very recently, two
famous paintings of world-wide reputation, the
greatest works of Ary Scheffer and the
Vernets, the " Battle of Fontenoy" (so parti-
cularly admired by the Queen of England upon
her visit to Versailles in the year 1855), tne
Battles of Charlemagne, of Philip Augustus,
and others ; that of Zulpich, or Tolbiac r
fought in the year 496 ; that of Bovines, and
others.

The Salon de 1830. The series of pictures
here illustrated the chief events of the Revo-
lution of this date, which eventuated in the
deposition of the Bourbons and the placing of
Louis Philippe on the throne of France.

The Galerie des Personnages Celebres.

Five rooms of portraits of the celebrated men

of all countries from the twelfth century :

Washington, Jackson, Polk, and other great

FRANCE.

Americans. Newton, Locke, Pitt, Fox,
George IV., the Queen Victoria, and other
English.

A Series of Rooms follow, impossible to be
quoted in detail, and now undergoing all sorts
of changes for the new offices of the Govern-
ment of the time being ; amongst which the
apartments occupied by the female favourites
of the modern French Kings, Madame de
Montespan, Madame de Pompadour, etc. ;
busts of poets, dramatists, sculptors, states-
men, men of the more private life of France ;
portraits of Constables of France, and
Admirals of France, and Marshalls of France,
and Fighting-worthies in the service of
France, and portraits purely imaginary of
the earliest Kings of France, and all
the Kings of France down or up to
Napoleon III. (and last, ad hoc) ; with views
of Royal residences, and Royal fetes, and
Royal pageants, until the visitor might
naturally conclude that there was nothing in
the world but France and the Kings thereof,
and the servants thereof.

THE NATIONAL ASSEMBLY

assumed its place in the New Hall of the Palace
in the month of March, 1876. The transfer of
the seat of power of Senators and Deputies from
the Old Hall to the New was then effected in
the famous Salle d'Hercule. The description
of the New Hall now becomes one of supreme
interest. This Hall is of rectangular form. A
massive tribune, originally designed for the
Conseil des Cinq-Cents, occupies one end ; it
is the place of the President. On each side
of this are the Secretaries. The tribune from
which the parliamentary orations are made
stands in the centre of the building. The
wall behind the Presidential Chairis decorated
withConderc's grand painting, " The Opening
of the States-General ; " and this is flanked
by two fine pieces of Gobelins Tapestry,
executed from designs by Lebrun, representing
the Palaces of the Tuileries and Versailles
itself. A handsome balcony, surmounted by
a lofty colonnade of Corinthian pillars,
surrounds the other three sides of the hall, and
supplies two rows of galleries for the use of
officials and visitors. The seats of the
Deputies are draped like curulc chairs, and
placed on steps one above the other, and are
divided into triangles by sixteen passages. A
portion of the wall opposite the tribune of the
President is composed of panels, and these
are so constructed as to slide back out of
sight when necessity may require the bringing

of the two Houses together, when the 300
Chairs of the Senators can be thus added
expeditiously and easily to the assembly.

The greater part of the Palace is now
devoted to Parliamentary business. The
paintings of many of the great artists that have
illustrated the history of their country are
consigned to unfamiliar spots, and many of
them put out of sight altogether. Even the
celebrated Galerie des Batailles has been
much shorn of its artistic decorations, and
turned to more practical use. The galleries
are not open, as before, to the public. And
Versailles, as a mere sight, exists no longer,
though nothing can divest it of its super
latively interesting associations.

THE GARDENS OF VERSAILLES.

" What description can do justice to these ?''
asks a French writer. " The gardens and park,
with their countless basins, fountains, jets-
d'eau, and statues ? They must be seen tc
get any idea of their number and extent."

The visitor should go to Versailles when the
Great Waterworks play, of which due notice
is always given in Paris by the newspapers
and posting-bills.

There are three principal divisions of he
Gardens the Parterre d'Eau, facing thf
centre of the Palace, the Parterre du Nord 5
facing the north wing, and the Parterre du.
Midi, facing the south wing of the Palace.
The Parterre d'Eau possesses two basins, with
fountains rising in the form of a basket
twenty-four bronze statues surround these s
typifying the chief Rivers of France, and
eight statues of water-nymphs and eight
groups of children complete the environment
The teiTace is flanked by two grand fountains,
the Fontaine de Diane, on the right, and the
Fontaine du Point du Jour, on the left, groups
of animals fighting adorning these.

The Parterre du Nord possesses handsome
flower-beds, two marble basins, and two
fountains, the Fontaine de la Pyramide, being
so called from its shape, and the Fontaine de
la Couronne, from a crown of laurel which its
water-gods support. Further on are the baths
of Diana, so called from the bas-relief of the
goddess and her attendant nymphs bathing.
The Alice d'Eau, a strait way between grass-
plots, statues, and fountains, conducts to the
grand Basin of the Dragon, 132 feet in
diameter, and the famous Fontaine de Nep-
tune, the handsomest of all the water-works.
The centre of this is occupied by Neptune and
Amphitrite, Tritons, Nymphs, and Monsten,

FEANCE.

of the deep; Sea-dragons carrying Cupids,
Father Oceanus, and Proteus, form the
surrounding groups. From each of these jets
ascend, streams pour down from twenty-two
vases above, and a vast column of water rises
perpendicularly from the central group to a
height of 90 feet.

The Parterre du Midi, corresponding to that
Du Nord, is laid out in grass and flowers, after
the English style, with fountains and vases.
It leads to the two Orangeries, the Grande and
the Petite.

Beyond the Parterre d'Eau a flight of
marble steps magnificently leads to the
Parterre de Latone, a fountain of five circular
basins rising above each other to form a
pyramid crowned with a group consisting of !
Latonn, her children, Diana and Apollo ; the j
human figures around, half metamorphosed |
into frogs, refer to the fable of the Lycians, who
refused Latona a drink of water, being
judicially converted into amphibise by the
wrathful Father of the gods. In the semi- j
circular terrace further on stand statues, copied
jhiefly from the antique, which are held to be
the finest in the whole grounds. Still further
on is the Bassin d'Apollon, one of the largest,
375 feet long and 300 feet wide ; a vast group
of statuary representing Apollo drawn in the
chariot of the sun by the four coursers, with an
attendant host of Tritons, Dolphins, Whales,
and all sorts of interesting monsters of the main.

Right and left other Basins, Fountains, and
Gardens lie, with names derived from their
groups of statuary or the favourites of their
past planters and owners, King and Queen,
too numerous to be particularized. One of the
finest, however, may be specified : on the
north side, the Bassin d'Encelade, which
represents Enceladus, the rebellious Titan,
crushed by a mighty block of rock, and throw-
ing up (naturally) from open mouth a column
of water 60 feet high! From the vicinity
of this a gateway conducts to a plantation, the
Bosquet des Bains d'Apollon, with a rocky
grotto forming the way to a Palace of Tethys,
the statuary representing Apollo as the Sun-
god, having finished his hard day's work in
fiery course from east to west, reposing, tended
by sympathizing Nymphs, with the Horses of
the sun, on the right and left, being fed and
groomed by various species of the Mamies.
The cost of this single affair was 1,500,000
francs.

In the park, just beyond the gardens, are
two Palaces, called the Grand Trianon and
Petit Trianon.

THE TRIANONS.

These are 'two "wicked little villas" of
Louis XIV. and Louis XV.'s times, con-
nected with the scandalous life of the court at
those periods. It is the usual custom with
tourists at "Versailles to make these retreats
the conclusion of their peregrinations.

THE GRAND TRIANON is at the extremity of
the Park. It was built by Louis XIV. for
Madame de Maintenon. The apartments are
decorated with numerous paintings, many of
great merit. In the Salle de Malachite is a
magnificent vase of that mineral, a presentation
of the Emperor of Russia, Alexander, to
Napoleon I., after the treaty of Tilsit. In the
Salon de la Reine is the bed, hung with crim-
son velvet and encircled by a superb balustrade,
of the Empress Josephine. In the Cabinet du
Travail du Roi are the cradles used by the little
heirs of royalty, and others not heirs. Here,
also, there are Gardens, with flower-parterres,
groves, walks, labyrinths, basins, fountains
vases, groups, statuary, etc., in almost endless
profusion.

THE PETIT TRIANON is at the end of the
Grand Trianon. It was built by Louis XV.
for Madame Dubarry. It is of very inferior in-
terest architecturally or decoratively to the
Grand Trianon. There are a few good paintings
of Watteau here. Perhaps the chief interest
centres in this having been a frequent and
favourite residence of the ill-fated Marie An-
toinette while the happiness of her life had
been yet unbroken. The garden was laid out
under her personal directions, in the English
fashion, as opposed to the stiff, regular, rec-
tilinear style of Le Notre, and the rest of the
gardens of Versailles. The Petit Trianon was
also a frequent residence of another scarcely
less ill-fated sovereign of France, the Empress
Marie-Louise.

VINCENNES

may be reached by omnibuses, or by rail-
way, from the Place de la Bastille, trains every
half-hour ; time of transit sixteen minutes.

THE CHATEAU is the great point of interest.
It was begun about the middle of the fourteenth
century. The principal tower and the heavy
Donjon remain from antiquity. The Donjon
was the residence of Kings and Queens at
various times. Two Kings of England, Henry
V. and Henry VI., occupied it. It was a
state-prison later j amongst its captives were
Henry IV. of France, the great Prince of
Cond6, the Cardinal de Retz, Mirabeau, and
the ill-fated Due d'Enghien, shot by order of
96

PRANCE.

Napoleon I. after a mock trial, at dead of
night, and buried in the moat. The piles of
the Pavilion de Roi and Pavilion de Reine,
on either side of the court-yard, were built in
the seventeenth century to accommodate the
Royal family. There is a Torture-chamber,
an Armoury, and a vast magazine of military
stores.

The Chapel is extremely beautiful and well
worthy of notice.

THE Bois DE VINCENNES is a large wooded
tract of land beyond the Chateau, laid out
very prettily with artificial lakes, rivers, chalets,
parterres, and walks, amongst handsome plan-
tations. There are several buildings on it also,
such as a Model Farm, a Pyramid, Asylums
for certain sick, etc.

FONTAINEBLEAU.

Is usually visited as one of the environs of
Paris. It is reached by railway, Chemin de
fer de Lyon, in two hours ; as well as by the
Chemin de fer d'Orleans. Return-tickets are
issued. The excursion thither and back oc-
cupies an entire day. It can, however, be
visited en route with much less loss of time
by Tourists who travel to or from Lyons and
Switzerland or the South of France. See
" General Continental Tour," page 20, and
Thirteenth Route, further on.

The Palace is open to the public daily from
twelve to three o'clock.

The Gardens and Forest are open through-
out the day.

THE PALACE OF FONTAINEBLEAU.

The Palace as it at present stands was
built by Francis I. Louis XIV. signed here
the famous Revocation of the Edict of Nantes,
in the year 1685. The King of Spain in 1808,
and Pope Pius VII. in 1812, were severally
imprisoned here by Napoleon I. And finally
the same Napoleon signed here his abdication
of the throne of France in 1814:

On the Horse-shoe steps of the court in front
of the Palace, the "Gourdes Adieux," Napoleon
I. took leave of his guard, April the loth, 1814,
before going into the banishment of Elba.
This court conducts to the chief entrance.

The Vestibule has six doors, of admirable
carving, which open to the following rooms :

The Chapelle de la Trinite.

The Galerie des Assiettes. Famous for its
decoration ; especially the Sevres-china plates
(assiettes) let into the walls, exquisite,
paintings of the history of the place, etc., to
the number of 128.

The Galerie de Francois I. A superb hall
richly decorated by Rosse and Primaticcio
with episodes in the life of Francis I.

TheAppartements des Reines-Meres Very
magnificent, with painting, carving, gilding
and tapestries from the Gobelins.

The Private Apartments of the Emperor
contain many pieces of furniture of the first
Napoleon's time, Gobelins tapestry, portrait of
Madame de Montespan, of Louis XIV. 's
time, etc.

The Cabinet Particulier contains the table
on which Napoleon I. signed his abdication.

The Salle du Trone contains a lustre of rock
crystal which cost 4OOO/.

The Boudoir de I'Imperatrzce.The bed-
chamber of Marie Antoinette preserves a
fastening for the window fabricated by the
deft hands of Louis XVI., a better smith than
king.

The Salon de Reception.
The Salon de Dames d'Honneur.
The Galerie de Diane, upwards of 300 feet
long, now the library. Here is generally
alleged to have taken place the murder of
Monaldeschi by order of his mistress the ex-
queen of Sweden, Christina, who was at the
period a guest of " the great monarch," Louis
XIV. The murder really took place in the
apartments underneath this gallery, on the
loth of November, in the year 1657. Monal-
deschi was the Queen's master of the horse.
Having provoked her jealousy, she pretended
he had betrayed state-secrets and condemned
him summarily and instantly to death for high
treason. He was stabbed on the spot ; the
blood is still shown on the boards. The
Queen justified the act to her royal entertainer
by the assertion of her continuous queenltness,
though her throne had been abdicated, her
unquestionable power over the lives of her
retinue.

The Anti-chambre de la Reine. The Go-
belins tapestries here illustrate the adventures
of Don Quixote.

The Salon des Tapisseries. The tapestries
here are not Gobelins, but Flemish.

The Salon de Francois I. It contains a fine
chimney-piece, and a Venetian mirror held to
be of fabulous value in this king's day.
Many other apartments succeed.
The Salle de Bal, or Gallery of Henry II.
A magnificent room. The letters everywhere
interlaced, H and D, represent the royal
Henry and the beautiful Diana of Poitiers
for whom he embellished this room.

The Appartements de Madame de Main-

FRANCE.

tenon. In one of these Louis XIV. signed
the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in the
year 1685, which resulted in the depopulation
of France of the Huguenots, a class of the
most industrious of the state. The furni-
ture remains unchanged from Louis XIV.'s
time.

The Chapel, dedicated to St. Saturnin, was
consecrated by Thomas a-Beckett in the year
1169, and the stained glass windows are from
the manufactory of Sevres.

The Vestibule de St. Louis is the most
ancient part of the Palace, with fine old wood-
carvings, statues of kings, etc., of great in-
terest.

The Porte Doree, a magnificent portal, with
frescoes, and handsome colonnade, built under
Francis I., is worthy of notice.

THE GARDENS OF FONTAINEBLEAU.

The Garden, called " Jardin Anglais," in
front of the Palace, is highly picturesque ; the
" Parterre" adjoining is in the French style,
of Lenotre ; they contrast well. There is a
Vinery a mile in length, producing the re-
nowned Chasselas de Fontainebleau grape.

THE FOREST OF FOXTAINEBLEAU.

The Forest. It is said there is no other in
the whole world so abundant in various
beauties. It is sixty-three miles in circum-
ference. The famous points in it are :

The Fort de VEmpereur, a tower, from
which an area of forty miles in all directions
is commanded, even Paris being traceable by
the Dome of the Pantheon.

The Gorge of Apremont. Eminently pic-
turesque.

The Bas-Breau. A passage through fine
old trees.

The Ca-verne des Brigands. A real retreat
of robbers a hundred years ago, not now.
(But there is a man who sells brandy,
lemonade, lizards, and other souvenirs for
emptying the visitors' pockets in a legitimate
manner.)

The Rochers de Tranchard. A profound
rocky ravine, an old quarry with ruins of an
old convent, and a dropping-well considered
specific for ophthalmia, the " roche qui
pleure" with fine view from the top.

La Belle Croix.A. series of pretty lakelets.

The Vallee de la Solle. Races are held
here in summer.

Carriages, with a pair of horses, can be
hired, at 12 francs for the day, or 2 francs per

hour ; saddle-horses, donkeys, and guides at
6 francs per day. For unaccompanied strollers,
guide-posts are placed throughout the grounds
with red marks towards the direction of the
Palace.

FIFTH, SIXTH, AND SEVENTH
ROUTES.

FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS.

Railway in 8 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page. 18 and 19.)
The following are the Principal Places of

Interest on the way. Leaving Paris, the rail

passes first

CHANTILLY.

Chantilly has been already described on the
First Route (from London to Paris, by Bou-
logne) to which refer.

CREIL.

Creil is equally on the First and Second
Routes from London to Paris, by Boulogne
and Calais, already described. A manufac-
turing town, with a population of 5000. It has
a Railway Buffet. Its chief importance arises
from its being a Junction of Rails from
France, Switzerland, Belgium, and Germany.
From Creil to Brussels there are three distinct
lines of rail.

The First Line from Creil to Brussels
passes

AMIENS.

Amiens has been already described on the
routes from London to Paris by Boulogne and
Calais, see page 44.

From this are passed Arras, Douai, Valen-
ciennes, Quievrain, Janappe, Mons, and Braine-
le-Comte, to Brussels.

The Second Line from Creil to Brussels
passes

ST. QUENTIN.

St. Quentin has a population of 28,000. It
is situate on the river Somme. Its manufac-
ture is principally linens.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Cathedral^ one of the most superb in
France.

The Battle of St. Quentin was fought in

the year 1557, by the troops of Spain and

England united, temp. Mary of England and

Philip II. of Spain, against the French; the

100

FRANCE.

city was taken after eleven assaults, and the
inhabitants butchered in good old fashion.

The Rail continues hence, as before, by
Mons and Braine-le-Comte, to Brussels.

The Third Line, from Creil to Brussels,
passes

Erguelines, where Belgium is entered ; pro-
ceeding thence by Charleroi to Brussels, which
see, under the head of " BELGIUM."

EIGHTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO GERMANY.

By Cologne afid the Rhine.
Railway to Cologne in 14 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 19.)

The route is through France to Erguelines,
as preceding routes, thence through Belgium,
passing Namur, Liege, Pepinster, and Ver-
viers. There Prussia is entered, whence the
route passes by

Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne, which see,
under the head of " GERMANY," page

NINTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO GERMANY.

By Metz.

Railway to Frankfort in 16 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 19.)

The following are the Principal Places of
Interest on the way :

MEAUX.

Meaux has a population of 9000. It is
beautifully situated on the river Alarne. Its
trade is chiefly wine.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Cathedral, St. Etienne. It is a magni-
ficent Gothic edifice. It contains the monu-
ment of the great preacher, Bossuet.
EPERUAY.

Epernay has a population of 8000. It was
formerly a fortified city. It is now the chief
entrepot for the Wines of Champagne. These
wines are kept bottled in curious vaults, ex-
cavated in the sandstone on which the city is
built. The vaults extend underground many
miles ; they contain millions of bottles ; the
bottles are piled up to a height of 6 feet, and
the cellars are a labyrinth.

From Epernay there is a short branch rail
to Rheims, whence Mezieres and Sedan may
be also visited by rail.

From Chalons, on the direct line, there is a
choice of two lines of rail to Metz, that by
Frouard and Nancy being the more interest-
ing.

A few minutes beyond Epernay by rail, on
the way to Rheims i-s passed the town of Ay,
noted for its high-class Champagne.

RHEIMS.

Rheims, in French Reims, has a population
of 60,000. It is the city where nearly all the
Kings of France have been crowned from
the time of Philip Augustus to Charles X.
Rheims retains hardly any remains of
antiquity.

The Principal Object of Interest is
THE CATHEDRAL. Oneof the finest Gothics
extant. It dates from the middle of the thir-
teenth century. It is 466 feet long by 121 feet
high. It contains many fine statues and
monuments. One of the most memorable
historical ceremonies that ever occurred within
its walls was in the year 1430, the coronation
of Charles VII. of France, at the impulse
of the enthusiastic Joan of Arc, the " Maid
of Orleans."

Continuing the line from Rheims, Mezieres
is passed and Sedan reached, famous for
their part in the Franco -Prussian campaign
of 1870.

MEZIERES.

Mezieres has a population of 5000. It is
very prettily situated. The church is worthy
of note. The town was nearly reduced to
ruins by the bombardment of September,
1870.

SEDAN.

Sedan has a population of 25,000. It is
a third-class fortified town of France,
situated on the Meuse river. The great
Marshal of France, Turenne, was born here
in the year 1611. The environs are very
beautiful, but the chief interest centres in Sedan
as the site of the crowning Battle of the
Franco-German War of 1870, followed by the
surrender of the Emperor Napoleon III.

CHALONS-SUR-MARNE.
Chalons-sur-Marne has a population of
16,000. Its trade is Champagne-wine. It
possesses the largest wine-cellars in all France.
The Principal Objects of Interest are
102

PRANCE.

The. Cathedral Notre Dame. This
fine chinch contains many interesting monu-
ments. It is rich in rare specimens of
stained glass, fabricated three centuries ago.

The Cliampagne Cellars. Those of
Jacqueson contain ordinarily 4,000,000 of bot-
tles. The laden wagons roll through the ex-
cavations in the chalk as through a town. The
vaults of this single firm extend twelve miles
in length.

BAR-LE-LE-DUC.

An important station, with a first-rate
Buffet, is passed.

FROTJARD.

Junction of the Rails to Metz, etc., is a
few minutes in advance of Nancy. The route
to the Battle-Field of the Franco-German war
of 1870 lies now to the left ; the way, pass-
ing Forbach, Saarbriick, and Mannheim to
Frankfort, for which see under the head of
" GERMANY;" to the right lie the routes
by Strassburg to GERMANY and SWITZER-
LAND.

NANCY.

Xancy is French. It has a population of
50,000. It is a clean and neat city, its streets
are wide, its buildings regular, it is altogether
modern-looking. It is noted for the manufac-
ture of "Plumetus " embroidery, upon which
one half of the population are employed.
Stanislaus, ex-king of Poland, came to reside
here, after abdicating the throne of Poland in
the year 1735, and remained here until his
death, which took place in the year 1766.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Triumphal Arch, modern, erected to
celebrate the victories of France, and her
Alliance with the United States of America

The Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine.
Erected in the sixteenth century. A highly-
striking architectural edifice.

The Church of Notre Dame. It contains
the tombs of Stanislaus, and his Queen.

The Church of the Cordeliers contains the
tombs of the Cardinal de Vandemot, and of
Philippa of Gueldres, both fine specimens of
art.

The Chapelle Ducale was erected by the
Dukes of Lorraine for their funereal chapel.

TJie Gate of St. Jean leads to The Croix
du Due de Bourgogne, so called from the
spot where the body of the mad Charles
the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, after his
attack on the city, in the year 1477, was
found in a pond, and the Cross was erected
in memory of the event.

103

An hour and a half beyond Nancy, the
new frontier of Alsace-Lorraine is crossed at
Avricourt, and GERMANY is entered, to which
refer for continuation of this route, by Strass-
burg to Frankfort, to South Germany, and to
Basle on the frontier of Switzerland.

TENTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO GERMANY.

By Strassburg.

Railway to Frankport in 16 hours.
(See "Outlined Tours," page 19.)

The route is the same as the preceding to
Nancy. Thence Germany.

ELEVENTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO SWITZER-
LAND.

By Strassburg.
Railway to Basle in 14 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 20.)

The route is the same as* the preceding to
Nancy ; thence by Strassburg and Mulhouse,
GERMANY to Basle, SWITZERLAND.

TWELFTH ROUTE.

FROM PARIS TO SWITZER-
LAND.

By Troyes.

Railway to Basle in 12 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 20.)
The line passes Troyes, Chaumont, Vesoul,
Belfort, and Mulhouse to Basle. It calls for
no special notice. It is somewhat shorter, but
less interesting than the Strasburg line.

THIRTEENTH ROUTE.

FROM PARIS TO SWITZER-
LAND.

By Dijon and Neuchatel.

Railway to Neuchatel in 13 Hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 20.)

The route passes

MELUN.

Melun has a population of 12,000. The
capital of the department of Seine et Marne.
104

FRANCE.

Though a large city, it contains no objects
calling for special note.

FONTAINEBLEATJ.

Fontainebleau has a population of n,ooo.
The town is clean and pretty, surrounded by
forest. The famous Palace, Gardens, and
Forest, are fully described under the head of
" PARIS," from which this place is generally
visited as an Excursion (see page 97).

SENS. '

Sens has a population of 12,000. It is
situated on the river Yonne.

The Principal Object of Interest is
The Cathedral. Norman style, very strik-
ing and beautiful. The fa$ade is worthy of
attention, as well as the sculptured tracery
of the transepts ; and the stained-glass windows
are particularly fine. Here Thomas a-Becket
took refuge, flying from Henry II. of England
in the year 1164. Vast bells, and famous, are
hung in the tower.

JOIGNY.

Joigny has a population of 8000. It is
situated on the river Yonne. The older part
of the town is characteristic of Mediaevalism,
its streets are steep, dark, and intertangled. It
contains three gothic churches.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Jean.

The Church of St. Andre.

The Church of St. Thibault.

Joigny is most important to the tourist
as the junction-station for a branch-rail to
Auxerre.

ATJXERRE.

Auxerre has a population of 16,000. It is
situated on the river Yonne, and is the capital
of the department of Yonne. It has a trade
in the wines of Burgundy. Its great attrac-
tion is the Cathedral ; but the situation itself
is very pretty.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. An early Gothic, of the
years from 1215 to 1230, the nave being com-
pleted in the year 1350. The Flamboyant
character of the structure is of the highest
order and strikingness. Especially noticeable
are the rose-windows, the doors, the trans-
cepts, and the stained glass.

The Church of St. Germain, on a hill, is
picturesque, but plain.

The Church of St. Pierre is a spacious
and fine Roman Gothic of the Seventeenth
century.

105

CHABLIS,

famous for its vineyards, producing a Bur-
gundy wine of very high order, is twelve
miles from Auxerre.

Continuing the direct line of railway from
Joigny, the next place of importance is

DIJON.

Dijon has a population of 42,000 inhabit-
ants. It was the ancient Capital of Burgundy.
It possesses many fine public walks, and
beautiful environs. Its manufactures are
woollen fabrics, linen, cotton, earthenware,
soap, beer, and candles ; but its leading
speciality is in its wine trade, Dijon being the
depot and market for the sale of the superb
Burgundy wines which grow in this neigh-
bourhood.

Dijon was bombarded by the Prussians in
the Franco-German war of 1870, on the 2Qth
of October, and taken the following day.
Omnibuses ply between the station and town.
English Church service is celebrated regu-
larly here.

The principal Bankers are Messrs. Dunoyer
&Co.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Church of Notre Dame, built in the
purest Gothic style of the Thirteenth century,
is remarkable for the boldness of its construc-
tion. It contains the clock, made by Jacques
Marques, which Philippe le Hardi seized at
Courtrai as one of the most curious works
then in existence ; its bells are struck by two
hammermen appointed for that purpose and
called Jacquemars, a corruption of the maker's
name.

The Old Cathedral, St. Benigne, is a
fine restoration from the Tenth century, very
imposing.

The Church of St. Philibert, of the Twelfth
century, and

The Chtirch of St. Jean, of the Fifteenth
century, are both worthy of notice, as fine
specimens.

The Porte Guillaume is a fine gate of the
year 1783.

The Place tfArmes, is a quaint square in
centre of the town.

The Church of St. Michel, of the Fifteenth
century, is of extremely handsome exterior.

The Palace of the Old Dukes of Bur-
gundy is of the utmost possible interest as
a relic of the past. The building itself, and its
Museum of Mediaeval remains of a domestic
character, are worthy of every note. A fee of
I franc is payable for entry to the latter.
1 06

FRANCE.

TJie Tlieatre adjoins the Palace, fronting
the Place d'Armes and the Church of St. Michel.

The Park, outside the town, is pretty.

Dijon possesses also a University and a
Botanic Garden.

From Dijon to Neuchatel the rail passes
Dole and Pontarlier, the latter the frontier-
town of France, towards Switzerland] threading
the Jura mountains to Neuchatel, which see
under the head of " SWITZERLAND."

A second, recently-opened line of rail con-
nects Dijon and Pontarlier direct, and in the
same length of time, with Lausanne, Switzer-
land, the straight route for Travellers by the
Simplon Pass to Italy.

FOURTEENTH ROUTE.

PROM PARIS TO SWITZER-
LAND.

By Dijon and Geneva,

Railway to Geneva in 13 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 20.)

The route is the same as the preceding to
Dijon.

Proceeding on the main line beyond Dijon,
the railway shortly passes

VOTJGEOT.

Renowned for its Burgundy wines. Be-
yond which, passed also by the rail, lies
NTJITS.

A town which has a population of 3000
inhabitants, and manufactures fine wine of
Burgundy.

BEATJNE.

Beaune has a population of 12,000. Its
principal trade is in the wines of Burgundy,
nearly 100 of the leading mercantile houses in
this town being engaged in that commerce.

CHALON-SUR-SAONE.

Chalon-sur-Saone has a population of
2O : ooo, and is situated on the river Saone.
There is nothing in the town eminently worth
seeing.

A granite Column exists here, supposed to
be a relic of the Roman period.

There is also an Obelisk to the memory of
the First Napoleon.

The town possesses a School of Design,
Theatre, public Baths, a College, and Manu-
factories of watches, jewellery, and linen.
The Hospital of St. Laurent is situated on an
island in the Saone.

107

MAC ON.

M^con has a population of 1 0,000. It is
situated on the left bank of the Saone. The
Huguenots of the Seventeenth, and the Revo-
lutionists of the Eighteenth, century swept
nearly every object of antiquity away from
M3con, and little of historical interest remains.
Its chief edifices are

The Hotel tie Ville.

The Cathedral.

The Old Episcopal Palace.

At Macon is a junction of rails. Passen-
gers change carriages and proceed, by Am-
berieu and Culoz, to Geneva, for " SWITZER-
LAND," to which refer.

Amberieu and Culoz are also on the route
for Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, the Cenis Tun-
nel, and "ITALY," by Turin, as in Route
Twenty-four.

FIFTEENTH ROUTE.
PROM PARIS TO LYONS.

Railway in 1 1 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 21.)

The route is the same as the preceding
Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth. From
Macon it is but one and a half hour to

LYONS.

Lyons has a population of 3 70,000. It is
the first city of France in point of manufac-
tures, the third in point of population. Its
position is most picturesque, on the Saone
and the Rhone ; and it is a city of very
high antiquity.

Along the banks of the Rhone and the
Saone are magnificent quays ; and the city
possesses many handsome public buildings.

Lyons is well fortified. Detached forts in
a circle surround the city : the most impor-
tant are those on the heights of St. Croix,
Fourvieres, and the Croix-Rousse. The last-
named suburb stands above the city, and has
been invariably the hot-bed of insurrection.
It teems with turbulence. Nearly all the riots
in Lyons have sprung from this quarter. It
contains alone within its precincts upwards of
30,000 silk- weavers.

There is an English Church here, with
regular chaplain and service.

English Vice-Consul, C. Haden, Esq., I,
Quai St. Clair.

American Consul, Gen. Osterhaus.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

108

FBANCE.

The Hdtel de Ville, a very beautiful struc-
ture, and historically of great importance. It
was here tke Revolutionary Tribunals sat,
from the year 1793. The first, under Challier,
decreed the destruction of the city. The
second consisted of Couthon, Fouche, and
Collot d'Herbois. The last-named had been
an actor, and was hissed off the stage at Lyons ;
furious, he threatened vengeance against
the inhabitants ; chance gave him the power,
and he caused the unfortunate citizens to be
executed at the rate of 100 per day. Far
more than 2000 persons were thus butchered,
and the city was virtually razed to the
ground.

The Cathedral, a structure of the Twelfth
century, is very imposing. Its stained glass
is noticeable. Its great bell weighs 20,000 Ibs.

Antiquailles, a vast hospital, occupies the
site of the Roman Palace where Claudius and
Caligula both were born.

The Church of Notre Dame de Fourvieres
stands on a conspicuous height above Anti-
quailles. The edifice is surmounted by a
dome, with a colossal figure of the Virgin.
From this height, on clear days, Mont
Blanc, about 100 miles off, is often seen, it is
alleged.

The Church of St. Irenee was erected on
the spot where, in the year of our Lord 202 ,
the cruel Septimius Severus caused to be
massacred nearly 20,000 Christians who had
met here to pray.

The Museum contains several pictures by
some good masters. The principal picture is
an "Ascension" by Perugino. There are
also some by Rubens, Guercino, Teniers, and
Palma Vecchio. Note the bronze tablet, on
which is carved a speech by Claudius, native
of Lyons, delivered before the Roman Senate
in the year 48.

SIXTEENTH ROUTE.

PROM PARIS TO MARSEILLES.

Railway in 19 hours.
(See "Outlined Tours," page 21.)

Continuation of Routes Thirteen, Fourteen,
Fifteen. From Lyons, steamers descend the
Rhone to

AVIGNON. But the scenery of the river can
be seen just as well from the railway by
sitting on the right-hand side, the rail and
road equally skirting the river.
109

VIENNE.

Vienne has a population of 20,000. It was
a very ancient town anterior even to Lyons.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, Gothic.

Ancient Remains. Very numerous ; among
which is the Castle of Saloman, supposed by
the learned to have been the prison of Pontius
Pilate, he having been banished from Rome
to Vienne, in Gaul, after his return from
Jerusalem.

Beyond Vienne are the vineyards which
produce the celebrated white and red wines
called Hermitage.

VALENCE.

Valence has a population of 20,000. It is
a good stopping-place, but has no striking
objects of interest. A short distance from
it are the village and vineyards of St. Peray,
noted for their excellent red and white wines.

ORANGE.

Orange has a population of 10,000.
The Principal Objects of Interest are
Roman Arch, triumphal, inscribed to
Marius.
Roman Theatre, of 30,000 seats.

AVIGNON.

Avignon has a population of 38,000. It
was the residence of the Popes for seventy
years, and under their jurisdiction it remained
for nearly 400 years altogether. It has many
important scientific and literary Institutions, a
Botanic Garden, and a Museum of Antiquities.
It is the centre of the madder district of
France, the cultivation of which hereabouts is
very general.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, Notre Dame des Doms,
contains the tomb of Pope John XXII.

The Palace of the Popes is rich in historical
associations. The Roman " Tribune," Rienzi,
was confined here, a political prisoner, chained
in a vault, which is still shown ; he was
eventually liberated through the intercession
of his friend Petrarch, the poet, whom the
Pope entertained here as a distinguished
guest.

The Museum contains many objects of very

great interest, to the antiquary especially.

In the picture gallery are a number of fine

! paintings, and a bust of Horace Vernet, the

i great marine painter, by Thorwaldsen.

TARASCON.

! is the junction for Nimes, Montpellier, Cette,
no

FRANCE.

the Pyrenees, Bordeaux, etc., which are de-
scribed in their proper places further on.

ARLES.

Aries has a population of 26,000. The
town is enclosed with old walls. Its streets
are narrow and intricate, and houses old and
mean. It is chiefly celebrated for its Amphi-
theatre, and other Roman and Mediaeval
Antiquities

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Amphitheatre. It is 459 feet long and
338 wide. It has five corridors and forty-
three rows of seats, and is supposed to have
been capable of holding 25,000 people. It
was built about the commencement of the
Christian era, and was excavated in the year
1830.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Trophi-
mus. This saint is said to have been a disciple
of St. Paul ; and here was one of the very first
cities in which the Cross was upreared. The
Cathedral contains some sculptures that are
worthy of notice.

At Rognac station is the junction of rail
for

AIX.

called Aix-en-Provence, to distinguish it from
others of same name. It has a population of
30,000. It was the old Capital of Provence ; and
is now resorted to for its warm springs, the
constituents of which are scarcely distinguish-
able from those of ordinary warm water, yet
they prove beneficial hygienically. The season
is from May an exceptional feature of the
South. The city is small, but handsome ; the
streets clean and regular.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Old Roman Baths. "Warm, 78 degrees
Fahr.

A Crucifix, near the railway-station.

The Cathedral. Noticeable for its age and
architectural peculiarities.

The Church of St. Jean, a modern
Gothic restoration, very fine.

The Museum of Roman Antiquities, in
the Hotel de Ville.

The Museum of Paintings.

MARSEILLES.

Marseilles has a population of 313,000. It
was founded by the Phoenicians 600 years be-
fore Christ. It has frequently suffered severely
from the ravages of the Plague. In the
epidemic of the year 1720 one-half of the
population of the whole town was swept away,
in

The scourge lasted that whole summer. It is
the birthplace "of M. Thiers, the distinguished
historian and statesman of France.

The quays of Marseilles are magnificent.
Its harbour, always crowded with the shipping
of the South and East, is capable of contain-
ing at once 1200 vessels. Its entrance admits
only one vessel at a time ; and it is defended
by two hills surmounted by the forts St.
Jean and St. Nicolas, while the roadstead is
defended by the fortified islands of Chateau
d'lf, Pomegue, and Ratonneau. The number
of vessels that arrive and depart from Marseilles
in the course of the year is over 25,000.

The principal manufactures are soap, oil,
sugar, steam-engines, lead-smelting, etc.

There is an English Church and a resident
chaplain.

English Consul, E. W. Mark, Esq.

American Consul, F. Potter, Esq.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cannebiere, chief street, leading to
the quays and harbour.

The New Museum is a magnificent erection,
equal to any in Europe.

Notre Dame de la Garde is the hill and
church which tops it, a noticeable feature in
every view of the city, and commanding a
superb view.

The Prado, leading from the city to the
open sea, is one of the finest drives and prome-
nades in Europe.

From Marseilles steamers ply to all parts of
the South and East ; and the railway continues
the coast-line by Toulon, Cannes, Nice, etc.,
to Genoa, as follows :

SEVENTEENTH ROUTE.
PROM PARIS TO NICE.

Railway in 17 hours.
(See "Outlined Tours," page 21.)

The route is the same as the preceding to
Marseilles.
In from one to two hours is reached

TOULON.

Toulon has a population of 70,000. It
is the great naval arsenal of France on the
Mediterranean. It is strongly fortified, being
defended by a double line of bastioned
fortifications, and strengthened by forts on
the adjacent heights. The French consider
it impregnable.

Toulon was taken possession of during
the First French Revolution, really in aid of
112

FEANCE.

the inhabitants, by an English expedition in
August, 1793, commanded by Sir Sidney
Smith; but the 5000 British troops were
inadequate to garrison so vast an extent of
works. The Revolutionary Army invested
it. And here, then, the young Bonaparte,
for the first time in authority, displayed
his military genius, in planning and directing
the batteries on the heights, which com-
manded all the forts held by the enemy.
A few days after they opened their fire the
city had to be evacuated ; the British and
Spanish fleets stood out to sea ; and the
ill-fated Toulon was entered by 50,000 red
Republicans, reeking with the gore of the
inhabitants of Marseilles and Lyons. They
massacred all who came in their way, whether
friends or enemies. Six thousand victims
at least were thus murdered. Fifteen thousand,
however, of the inhabitants took advantage
of the English fleet, and escaped by sea.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Musee de la Marine.

The Botanic Garden.

At a short distance from Toulon is the
health-resort of

HYERES.

Hyeres has a population of 6000. It is
situated about three miles from the Medi-
terranean, away from the direct line of
rail. It is pretty, but not strikingly so.
As a place for invalids it is warm and
sunny in winter-time. Small lodgings may
be obtained outside the town on the way to
the sea. There is cheerful society to be
found if avoiding the consumptive patients
who resort to this place.

CANNES.

Cannes has a population of 10,000. It is
placed in the most charming position,
situated on two bays of the same name,
with sheltering heights at the back, not too
near. It is noted for the salubrity of its
atmosphere, the temperature of the winter
being but from 55 to 60 Fahrenheit. Fogs
are unknown. The day is a perpetual sun-
shine. The Villas of the English and other
winter visitors are legion. But life is quiet j
at Cannes.

The environs are perfectly delightful, and
the excursions and drives numerous.

There are several English Churches, and
regular services throughout the season, which
extends from October to May.

Free Church of Scotland services from
November to April.

I There are Physicians of all countries.

English Vice-Consul and Banker, M. Barbe-
Patteson.

There are Club-houses, Concerts, and
Balls.

The Principal Places of Interest are

The Lerins isles, Sre. Marguerite and St.
Honorat.

The East and West Bays, for their villas,
etc.

The Croix des Gardes, for its view.

St. Cassien, for its hermitage and hill.

La Napotde, for its Saracenic ruins.

St. Cesaire, for its grotto and stalactites.

La Croisette, for its acres of Orange-
trees.

Vallauris, for its magnificent views.

In the neighbourhood of Cannes is

GBASSE,

with a population of 13,000 ; famous for its
distilleries of Perfumes, and its manufactories
of Preserved Fruits.

From Cannes to Nice is but one hour by
rail.

NICE.

Nice has a population of 50,000. The
annual visitors bring up the number to 60,000.

As a Winter's residence for families, Nice,
of all places in Europe, possibly offers best of
all the advantages required. As to education,
masters of languages, of music, of design, of
dancing, of gymnastics, etc., are numerous.
There is a Public Library, a Museum, an
Italian Opera, a French theatre, and numerous
Clubs. The town is surrounded by elegant
villas. Carriages and donkeys, to make ex-
cursions, are plentiful,

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Public Garden, in which there is a
Band every afternoon.

The Promenade des Anglais, a beautiful
drive and walk, facing the sea, where for
hours every afternoon may be seen all the
fashions of the world, from Emperors and
Empresses downward.

Garibaldi 's House. The house where ths
Italian patriot, Garibaldi, was born, on the 4th
of July, 1807, is No. 4, on the Quai Cassini.

Massends House. Now converted into an
hotel. Massena was born at Nice, on the 6th
of May, 1758.

Napoleon's House. No. i, Rue de Ville-
franche, is the house where Napoleon I. lodged,
in 1/94, when he commanded the French
Army in Italy.

The Palace of the Emperor Lascaris, who,
114

FRANCE.

when dethroned at Constantinople, in the
year, 1261, fled to Nice, and resided here
with his daughter, (who married one of the
Grimaldi) in No. 15, in the Rue Droite.

The Chateau, or rather its place, on a
commanding mount of rock.

Of the many delightful and picturesque
drives and walks in the neighbourhood of
Nice, the following points are most worthy of
notice :

Saint-Andre, with its curious Stalactite
Grotto, and ancient Chateau ; the latter built
in 1687.

Saint-Pans, a Convent founded in the year
775) by Siagrius ; and where Charlemagne is
said to have resided during two years after its
foundation.

The Jardin d'Acdimatation, near the Var.
Open every day from 2 to 4 o'clock.

Saint- Barthelemy, where there is an in-
teresting Benedictine Convent.

Cimies, with its ancient Roman Ruins.

The Fountains. The Fontaine de Mou-
railles, the Fontaine Sainte, and the Fontaine
du Temple ; the last so called from its having
formerly been in connection with one of the
establishments of the Knights Templars.

The Grotte de Chateau-neuf, with its stalac-
tites.

The Grotte de Falicon.

Saint Jean. A picturesque locality re-
sorted to by pleasure- seekers.

Beaulieu. Famous for olive trees.

Saint-Hospice. Famous for pic-nic parties.

Beyond Nice, FRANCE still continues, em-
bracing Monaco, Monte-Carlo, and Mentone,
beyond which it reaches its frontier. It is
properly the route to Italy. There is railway
communication throughout. The time of
transit to Mentone is but one hour.

The line passes

MONACO.

Monaco has a population of 3000. It is
boldly and beautifully situated on a vast rock
on the Mediterranean. It is one of the oldest
and smallest principalities in the world. The
present Prince is a descendant of the great
Grimaldi of the tenth century, who doughtily
drove the all-invading Saracens from his
petty dominion.

The Prince leases the most beautiful portion
of his territory at Monte-Carlo to a French
company, which has terraced the rocks, laid
out lovely gardens, and built a magnificent
Casino and Hotel. The Casino is open during

the entire year, with play-rooms, ball-rooms,
dancing-rooms, reading-rooms, and daily con-
cert-rooms. The locality is the only one in
Europe where public gambling is now carried
on with any prestige or pretension.

MENTONE.

Mentone has a population of 6000. It is
simply a wintering place, and noted, like Nice
and Cannes, for the purity of its atmosphere.

The frontier of FRANCE is just beyond
Mentone. The railway and route along the
Riviera continue to Genoa. The time occu-
pied by rail from Nice to Genoa is from eight
to ten hours.

EIGHTEENTH ROUTE.

FROM PARIS TO THE

PYRENEES.

By Perigueux.

Railway to Pau in 30 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 21.)

Leaving Paris, the provinces of the Orlean-
nois, Touraine, and Maine, among the richest
in France, situated in the basin of the Loire,
are before the traveller. Parts are covered
with brushwood ; and parts, by the rich banks
of the Loire, are covered with meadows, vine-
yards, gardens, and forests.

ORLEANS.

Orleans has a population of 50,000. It is
one of the most ancient cities of France. Its
most famous historic memory is connected
with " La Pucelle," the heroic " maid." In
the year 1428 Orleans was besieged by the
English. Joan of Arc entered the city with
inferior French forces, bearing supplies to the
besieged. She attacked the besiegers, and
the next day the English broke up the
siege.

Nearly all the historical memorials have
been swept away, particularly those that relate
to Joan of Arc.

Orleans has an extensive commerce in wine,
brandy, and vinegar. Its manufactures are
woollens, cottons, pottery-ware, vinegar, and
saltpetre. It has sugar-refineries, breweries,
and metal foundries.

7 he Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, one of the finest in France^
with tower 280 feet high.
116

PRANCE.

The Hotel de Ville contains a cast of the
famous statue of Joan of Arc, by the Princess
Marie, daughter of Louis Philippe.

fTie House of Jeanne a,' Arc, in the Rue du
Tabourg, is shown.

The House of Agnes Sorel, erected by the
King, Francis the First, for his famous mis-
tress, is interesting.

LIMOGES.

Limoges has a population of nearly 56,000.
It is situated on the east bank of the Vienne.
It was nearly totally burnt to the ground in
the year 1864. It contains few objects of
interest. It is celebrated for its breed of
horses. Its manufactures are glass, porcelain,
broadcloth, hats, paper, and cards, and it has
a number of brandy-distilleries.

PERIGTJETJX.

Perigueux has a population of 20,000. It
has a trade in wines, St. Emilion especially,
and in the famous pates de Perigueux, known
to all persons of taste, partridge and truffle
pies. Its old streets are very noticeable.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, St. Front. The architecture,
Byzantine, is very remarkable. It is a fac-
simile of St. Mark's of Venice.

The Tour de Vesune, a Roman tower,
loofeet high, and 6 feet thick, is very ancient.

The Chateau de la Barriere remounts to an
early Roman era.

The Prefecture, modern, is a fine structure.

AGEN.

Agen has a population of 19,000. It is
beautifully situated on the right bank of the
Garonne. Its manufactures are sail-cloth,
starch, and leather.

TARBE3.

Tarbes has a population of 16,000. Its
chief importance arises from its being at the
junction of the rails to Pau on one side, Bag-
neres on another, and Toulouse and the great
line of the south on a third.

PAU.

Pau has a population of 23,000. It is very
beautifully situated on the mountain stream
of the Gave. It was the birth-place of King
Henri Quatre, the " good king of France.'
Also Bernadotte, once King of Sweden, was
born here. Pie was the son of a saddler, and
left Pau in the honourable capacity, if humble,
of a drummer.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Promenade. It possesses a magnificent
view of the Pyrenees.

The Castle in which Henri Quatre was born.

The Statues of Henri Quatre, in the Place
Royale, and at the Mairie.

The Museum is rich in mineralogical speci-
mens from the Pyrenees.

The Library contains 24,000 volumes.

English churches exist at Pau, in different
quarters of the city.

Presbyterian church. Services from October
to June.

English Physicians. Several are resident,
of high repute.

English Vice-Consul, J. Church, Esq.

American Consul, M. Clay, Esq.

Bankers, several.

The Season for Invalids is the winter ; the
season for Tourists is the summer.

Excursions around Pau.

Many can be made with great ease, either
in carriage or on horseback.

Pietat. To go and return take aboui.
four hours. It is one of the finest excursions
in the environs.

Eaux-Bonnes, and Eaux-Chaudes, and the
famous Pic du Midi t one of the highest-
summits of this lovely mountain region. Tha
excursion to Eaux-Bonnes will occupy two
days. From Eaux-Bonnes to the Spanish
watering-place of Panticosa will occupy
another day.

OUTLINED TOUR IN THE PYRENEES, AND
ADJACENT PARTS.

Pau, Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, Caute-
rets, Luz, Gavarnie, Bareges, Bagneres de Bi-
gorre, Bagneres de Luchon, Tarbes, Auch s
Agen, Bordeaux.

NINETEENTH ROUTE.

FROM PARIS TO THE
PYRENEES.

By Bordeaux.

Railway to Bordeaux in 1 1 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 21.)

The direct route from Paris to Tours passes
no place of interest. It is preferable to ad,opt
the nearly parallel route by Orleans. This latter
is the same as the preceding route as far as
Orleans. Thence it diverges, passing.
118

FKANCE.

BLOIS.

Blois has a population of 20,000. Its
manufactures are gloves, porcelain, wine,
timber, and brandy. It is a decayed town,
with narrow and half-deserted streets, but
possessing a fine old castle standing on a rock
which overhangs the river. It has for ages
been the residence of Kings and Queens,
Princes and others of royal blood, as well as
the scene of many royal crimes and murders,
amongst the most famous of which the mur-
der of the Duke of Guise, the mighty Henri
le Balafre, and his brother, the Cardinal de
Lorraine. Here stands the Observatory of
Catherine de Medicis, where she used to
retire with her astrologer to consult the stars.

An interesting excursion of two hours may
be made from Blois to the Chateau de Cham-
bord. It was built by Francis I.

Another excursion from Blois may be made to
the Chateau deVale^ay, the residence of Prince
Talleyrand during the latter period of his life.
He was buried at the Convent ofVale^ay.

AMBOISE.

Amboise has a population of 5000. It has
an extensive manufacture of files and other
steel goods.

The Principal Object of Interest is
The Castle, long the residence of the Kings
of France. Here the plot against the Guises
was formed, known as the "Conjuratoire
d'Amboise." The plot was discovered, and
1 200 Huguenots, conspirators, were either
hung or beheaded in and around the Castle.
The stench of dead bodies was such that the
Court was compelled to leave Amboise.

THE CHATEAU DE CHENANCEAU

is situated 10 miles south of Amboise. It was
built by Francis I. It was given by Henry II.
to his mistress, Diana of Poitiers, who in-
habited it up to the time of his death.

TOTIBS.

Tours has a population of 43,000. It is
situated at the extremity of a fine plain, and
its bridges across the Loire are the finest in
Europe. Its manufactures are silk, woollen,
hosiery, and leather.

Tours is a favourite residence of English. It
has an English church.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Cathedral, Gothic, built by Henry V.
of England. Its length is 256 feet ; its height,
$5 feet. It is flanked by two towers, each 205
feet high.

119

THE CASTLE OF LOCHES

is 30 miles from Tours. This castle acquired
a terrible reputation as a state-prison under
Louis XL The blood curdles at the recital of
the deeds of cruelty committed in this den.

POITIERS.

Poitiers has a population of 33,000. It is
inclosed by old walls, and has several old
churches. It has a castle, university, aca-
demy, many schools, hospitals, a public library
of 25,000 volumes, a theatre, and a botanical
garden. Its manufactures are woollens,
hosiery, lace, and hats.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, Gothic. In this, enclosed
by iron bars, is a small chapel which contains
" Le Pas de Dieu," where, the legend tells, the
Saviour appeared to St. Radegonde. In the
crypt is the black marble coffin of that saint,
to which pilgrimage is duly made in August.

The Churches of St. Porchaire, St.
Hilaire, and St. Jean de Moutiersneuf, are
worthy of inspection on account of the
antiquity of their architecture

In the neighbourhood of Poitiers was the
scene of the memorable conflict in the year
732 between Charles Martel and the Saracenic
Abderrahmen ; the former at the head of the
Christian, and the latter at that of the Mahom-
medan forces. The Koran received its death-
blow in the West on this spot. It is said that
300,000 Mahommedans were left dead upon
the field, but this is open to doubt.

Four miles distant is the site of the famous
battle of the year 1356, in which the English
army, under the Black Prince, amounting
at most to 14,000 men, was met by the French
under King John with a force of 60,000, and
victoriously encountered these odds. The
nobles of France fell like leaves in winter, and
King John himself was made captive.

ANGOULEME.

Angouleme has a population of 26,000. It
is a city built of stone, and clean, and cheer-
ful. It was formerly the residence of the
Counts of Angouleme ; and Marguerite de
Valois, Queen of Navarre, the most beautiful
and accomplished princess of her day, was
born here. It contains a Cathedral, Court-
house, Theatre, Public Library, Hospitals,
Paper-mills, and a Cannon-Foundry. Its
manufactures are serges and earthenware.
120

FRANCE.

BORDEAUX.

The suburb La Bastide is connected with
Bordeaux by one of the most magnificent
bridges in Europe. It cost 3OO,ooo/. It is
crossed by omnibuses to and from the railway-
station.

Bordeaux has a population of 195,000. It
is situated on the Garonne. The river hsre is
2600 feet wide, 60 feet deep. Its superb
Quay accommodates vessels of over 1200
tons burden; it is three miles long, and is
lined with fine buildings. No city in Europe
can boast a finer, and few as fine a quay.
Upwards of 3000 vessels annually trade here.

Bordeaux is one of the most flourishing
cities of Europe in industry, commerce, and
the cultivation of the arts of civilized life. Its
commerce is carried on chiefly with England,
the United States, the French Colonies, and
South America. Its manufactures are tobacco,
vinegar, liqueurs, chemicals, sugar, saltpetre,
cottons, woollens, calicoes, iron, fruits, brandy,
and wine. But of all, its great trade is in the
wines called " Claret."

The annual export of wines from Bordeaux
averages 200,000 hogsheads. The cellars of
Messrs. Barton and Guestier, wine-merchants
and bankers, alone, contain frequently at a
time from 9000 to 10,000 casks.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Quay, its shipping, its structures, and its
Bridges.

The Wine-Cellars.

Tlie Cathedral. A handsome Gothic, with two lofty
spires.

The Theatre, perhaps]the finest in France. It is
beautifully decorated, and is equal to seating 4000
persons.

The Museum contains many old Roman remains.

The Hotel de Ville, a fine structure. Here is a collec-
tion of between 400 and 500 paintings.

Tit: Arch of Triumph of the Port de Bourgogne.

The mtel de la Marine.

The Palace of Gzllienus, so-called after the Roman
Emperor, probably a circus. It is interesting, though
in ruins.

The Church oftt. Michel. The north facade is striking
florid Gothic of the Fifteenth century. Bas-reliefs of
the portal are noticeable. The interior is very fine.

The Churcli of St. Servin has a splendidly-sculptured
porch, and the interior is full of sculptures of interest

There is an English Church at Bordeaux.

English Bankers, Messrs. Barton & Guestier.

British Consul, T. C. Hunt, Esq.

American Consul, B. Gerrish, Esq.

From Bordeaux, the railway continues,
passing La Mothe, the junction for Arcachon,
see next Route, Morccrx, and Dax,
whence a branch-rail diverges to Pau and the
Pyrenees, as in preceding route.
121

The direct line of rail from Bordeaux
continues, by Bayonne and Biarritz, to
SPAIN.

The Tourist who desires to visit the prin-
cipal vineyards of Medoc may take the
steamer from Bordeaux to Pauillac ; this may
thus be reached in four hours with, or in six
against, the tide. Pauillac is not far from the
Chateaux Laffitte and Latour. Public con-
veyances, which run daily, will conduct direct
to Chateau Margaux. There is also railway
to Pauillac and Margaux.

The Garonne, below Bordeaux, is a broad,
tidal river. As Bordeaux recedes nothing can
be finer than the view backwards of the long
quay of the city and the broad river covered
with shipping. Proceeding downwards, the
tongue of land between the Garonne and the
Dordogne, called very pertinently Entre-
Deux-Mers, will strike the voyager's eye. It
produces a vast quantity of wines of an
inferior quality.

TWENTIETH ROUTE.

FROM PARIS TO ARCACHON.

Railway in 14 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 22.)

The route is the same as the preceding to
Bordeaux and La Mothe, from which latter
station there is a branch rail to Arcachon.

ABCACHON.

Arcachon has a population of 3000. It is
situated very happily for invalids, on the Bay
of Biscay, sheltered on the land side by hills
and forests. It is a health-resort for the winter,
and is also an agreeable summering place of
sojourn.

English Church - Service is celebrated
throughout the year.

There is an English Bank.

English Physicians, and others, reside.

And there is an acting English Consulate.

TWENTY-FIRST ROUTE.
PROM PARIS TO BIARRITZ.

Railway in 1 8 hours.
(See "Outlined Tours," page 22.)

The route is the same as the Twentieth, by
Bordeaux, La Mothe, Morcerx, and Dax.
The direct line is hence continued towards
the Spanish frontier, passing :
122

PRANCE.

BAYONNE.

Bayonne has a population of 26,000. It is
situated on the rivers Adour and Nive, which
facilitate commerce, divide the town into
three sections, and communicate with the Bay
of Biscay by a reach of 2 miles.

The city is well built. It possesses hand-
some quays and promenades. The Cathedral
is not of much importance, but the Citadel is
one of the grandest works of Vauban.
Bayonne is distinguished by its invention of
the "bayonet."

The region lying between this city and the
Spanish frontier is memorable in the Penin-
sular War of the year 1813, in which Welling-
ton and Soult were pitted against each other
in this district, either severally commanding
the English and French forces.

BIARRITZ.

Biarritz has a population of 3000. It is
equally situated with Arcachon (see preceding
Route) on the Bay of Biscay. It is a health
resort. The average temperature of the winter
is 45 . Fahrenheit. It is well supplied with
lodgings.

The Railway Station is 2 miles from the
town.

An English Church is here.

English Physicians are usually in residence.

A British Bank has lately been established.

The Route and Railway continue hence
direct to " SPAIN." (See under which heading
for continuation.)

TWENTY-SECOND ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO VIENNA.

By Strassburg.

Railway in 36 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 22.)

The route is the same as the Tenth Route

which see) to the frontier of France. For the

Test of the way refer to the headings of "GER-

EMPIRE," and " AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN

EMPIRE."

TWENTY-THIRD ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO VIENNA.

By Mannheim.
Railway in 36 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 22.)
The route is the same as the Ninth Route,
which see, to the frontier of France. For the
I2 3

rest of the way refer to the headings of
"GERMAN EMPIRE" and "AUSTRO-HUN-
GARIAN EMPIRE."

TWENTY-FOURTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO ITALY.

By the Cents Tunnel.

Railway to Turin in 19 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 22.)

The route is the same as the Thirteenth
Route, which see, to Dijon. Thence it is
continued, in the Fourteenth Route, to
Macon. From MScon, the line branches off,
by Amberieu and Culoz, to

AIX-LES-BAINS.

Aix-les-Bains has a population of 4500.
It is one of the chief cities of Savoy. Its
situation is pretty. It is resorted to for its
waters and baths which range from 54 to
1 16 Fahrenheit. Its annual visitors amount
to 10,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Roman Ruins, consisting of arch, temple,
and baths.

Haute-combe, place of burial of the Royal
Family of Savoy.

Museum of Wax-works, illustrative of the
action of the waters.

The Casino has ball-rooms, reading-rooms,
etc.

English Church-service is regularly cele-
brated at Aix.

Bankers, W. W. Jules Tocanier & Cie.

CHAMBERY.

Chambery has a population of 20,000. It
was the ancient Capital of Savoy. It is famous
for its manufacture of gauze.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Elephants' Fountain, very singular,
supported on Elephants.

The Ducal Castle, the ruins of which are
in good preservation.

The Cathedral, a Gothic of the Fifteenth
centuiy.

The House of Rousseau. He lived here for
some years at " Les Charmettcs. "

The railway continues between hilly ranges,
the Alps at the back, by Montmelian, St.
Pierre d'Albigny, St. Jean de Maurienne, St.
Michel, and Modane, where the frontier of
FRANCE is reached, and there

FRANCE.

THE CENIS TUNNEL

is entered, the length of which is seven miles,
and the time of transit from twenty to thirty
minutes (which seem an age), debouching
at Bardonneche, whence an hour and a
half's rail conveys to Turin, which see under
the heading of " ITALY."

TWENTY-FIFTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO ITALY.

By the Simplon,
(See " Outlined Tours," page 23.)

Railway communication extends throughout
from Paris to Sierre, SWITZERLAND. Thence
diligences pass the Simplon to Arona, ITALY.
Thence rails run to Milan, Genoa, and Turin.
See Thirteenth and Fourteenth Routes for the
portions in FRANCE.

TWENTY-SIXTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO ITALY.

By Marseilles.

Railway to Genoa in 35 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 23.)

The route is the same as the Thirteenth
Pvoute to Dijon, whence the Fourteenth Route
to Macon, the Fifteenth Route to Lyons, the
Sixteenth Route to Marseilles, and the Seven-
teenth Route to Mentone, where the frontier
of FRANCE is attained. ' The rest of the way,
by the Riviera, to Genoa, is in ITALY.

TWENTY- SEVENTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO CHERBOURG.

The North-west of France.

Railway in 10 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 24.)

The first place of importance passed is
EVREUX.

Evreux has a population of 13,000. It is one
of the most ancient cities of France. It is
situated very beautifully, being shut in from
the cold of winter by hills on the north, and
from the heat of summer by hills on the south.
Its manufactures are cotton, woollen, and
leather. The Empress Josephine resided here
after her divorce from the First Napoleon.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

125

The Cathedral, a fine building, of mixed
styles of architecture, very striking.

The Church of St. Taurin, a miniature of
the Cathedral. The Cloisters, and the Chasse
of St. Taurin, are worth note.

The Bishop's Palace was erected in the year
1484.

BEKNAY.

Bernay has a population of 8000. Its
manufactures are linens, cloths, woollens, and
hemp. The largest Horse-fair in France is
held here, and is often attended by upwards
of 50,000 people. The Cathedral is the oldest
remaining Norman church in Normandy.

LISIETJX.

Lisieux has a population of 13,000. Its
manufactures are woollen and cloth.

Its thoroughfares are gloomy; its houses
are built of wood, and antiquated ; neverthe-
less, in all Normandy, there is no place to ex-
ceed it in the interest of the most curious
devices, signs and emblems in wood and stone,
the colouring and the marks of age, the old
buildings and the mediaeval houses, which
convey at a glance the true meaning of what
is " Gothic " in domestic architecture.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Streets, the celebrated Rue des Fevres
and others, the elaborate decoration of the
houses, and their curious construction, the
work of the Middle Ages.

From Lisieux, there is a branch-rail to the
fashionable watering-place of Trouville, oppo-
site Havre, see Route Fourth.

CAEN.

Caen has a population of 46,000. Its manu-
factures are lace, blonde, black and white
crape, cutlery, cotton, wax, and beer. It is
extensively engaged also in dyeing and ship-
building. And it has a large maritime com-
merce with the United States.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Etienne. Its architecture
is plain. It was founded by William the
Conqueror, and destined to be a resting-place
for his own body. The Huguenots, in the
year 1562, rifled the grave of its royal con-
tents.

The Hotel de Vitte has a collection of
paintings. There is a " Marriage of the Vir-
gin " by Perugino, a " Melchizedec offering
Bread and Wine to Abraham " by Rubens,
and a " Virgin and Saints " by Albert Diirer
(doubtful).

126

FRANCE.

The Abbaye aux Dames, founded by William
the Conqueror's Queen Matilda as a nunnery
for ladies, in the year 1066. The Church
attached is "a perfect specimen of pure
Xorman Romanesque."

St. Etienne le Vieux is the remains of a
line Gothic church.

The Church of St, Michel is also worthy
of notice.

'English Church-service is celebrated at
Caen.

Living is cheap. Many English reside.

Steamers from Caen to Havre daily in
four hours.

BAYEUX.

Bayeux has a population of 10,000. Its
manufactures are lace, damasks, calicoes, and
cotton-yarn ; and it has an extensive trade
in cattle, horses, and butter.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, a fine specimen of Gothic
architecture, built in the early part of the
Twelfth century, has recently been restored.

The JSibliotheque, or public Library. It
contains the first tapestry of Bayeux, one of
the most singular historic records existing.
It is a piece of cloth 20 inches wide, and
200 feet long, the needlework of Queen
Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror,
representing his conquest of England.

CHERBOURG.

Cherbourg has a population of 44,000.
It is one of the principal naval Ports and
Dock-yards of France. It is nearly opposite
Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight. Every
method has been adopted to render it im-
pregnable. Its naval docks are cut out of
the solid rock. The breakwater is three
miles long, 310 feet at the base, 60 deep,
averaging 40 feet under water and 20 feet
above. It is defended by immense forti-
fications on every available situation in the
neighbourhood. The first French Trans-
Atlantic Steamers arrived at New York
from Cherbourg on the 8th of July, 1847.
Vessels belonging to the English Yacht
Club often touch here.

British Consul, H. Hamond, Esq.

American Consular Agent, B. Le Jolis.
Esq.

127

TWENTY-EIGHTH ROUTE.
PARIS TO BREST.

West of France.

Railway in 14 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 24.)

Brittany is a department of France much
resembling Scotland in its barren heaths, and
stormy unprotected coasts. The ancient
Britons came from England, which has since
borne their name. The people are of strange
aspect, with hair flowing wild over neck and
shoulders, clad in undressed skins, and shuf-
fling in wooden shoes. The Breton, however, is
so far civilized that he works hard, and puts
carefully by.

CHARTRES.

Chartres has a population of 20,000. It
is a very large and important corn and
flour market.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. 11 One of the most
magnificent in Europe." It is built in the
Early Gothic style. It was the first church
in France dedicated to the Virgin. Its
length is 425 feet ; the height of the
tallest spire is 304 feet ; the height of the
roof is 112 feet. It contains 125 windows,
many famous for beautifully stained-glass.
The Gothic sculpturing of the screen of the
choir is at least equal to anything else of
the kind in France.

The Church of St. Pierre has also some
fine glass-windows.

The Church of St. Andre is highly interest-
ing to the archaeological architect.

LE MANS.

Le Mans has a population of 46,000. It
consists of an upper and lower town, and
is partly inclosed by Roman walls. Its
manufactures are linens, woollens, and wax-
. candles ; it has a trade in clover-seeds and
poultry.

The Principal Objects of Interest axe

The Cathedral, a handsome Romanesque,
of the Twelfth century. The Choir is of
the Thirteenth century, and is exceedingly
beautiful. Its stained-glass windows are
like those of Chartres. Note the Tombs
of Berengaria, Queen of Richard Cceur-de-
Lion, and of Charles of Anjou.

Notre Dame de la Couture is of very ancient
date, possibly the Tenth century.
128

FRANCE.

The Museum contains a great curiosity
of the Twelftfc century, a full-length Portrait
on copper of Geoffry Plantagenet, Count of
Maine.

ALENCON.

Alen9on has a population of 15,000. Its
manufactures are embroideries, the celebrated
lace called "Point d'Ale^on," which still
occupies several houses, and the crystal
ornaments called " Diamants d'Alen9on."

RENNES.

Rennes has a population of 53,000. It
possesses a large trade in butter, honey, wax,
and linens. It was the Capital of Brittany
in former days. Now it is nearly all modern,
a conflagration having destroyed the city in
the -year 1720.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Palais de Jiistice, the former Parlia-
ment-house of the States of Brittany.

The Church of St. Melaine has some
remains of the twelfth century.

The Cathedral is modern, Corinthian
order.

The Bibliotheque contains 30,000 volumes,
and some valuable historic MSS.

The Mont Thabor, public promenade, com-
mands pretty views.

BREST.

Brest has a population of 80,000. The
city is built on the ' slopes of hills. It is
divided by the port into two parts. It has
an incomparable harbour, large basins, ex-
tensive quays, a grand arsenal, and vast naval
magazines, and ship-building yards.

Brest has frequently been occupied by the
English. It possesses the following social
advantages :

Reading-room well supplied with papers.

Promenade.

English Consul, H. Raynals, Esq.

American Consular Agent, J. Kerros,
Esq.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Naval Dock-yard. To visit this, a
written permit from the Ministre de la
Marine must be obtained from Paris.

The Harbour. This is not only immense,
but also one of the most secure in Europe.
It can accommodate sixty Ships of War at
one time.

The Hopital Marine is capable of contain-
ing 1400 invalids. It is one of the cleanest,
best ventilated and ordered on the Continent.
The rooms are large and airy ; the beds are
129

hung with white curtains, and the windows
are pleasantly curtained also.

Steamers make daily excursions through the
harbour and roadstead.

The Transatlantic Mail Steamers sail
every alternate week from Brest for New
York.

TWENTY-NINTH ROUTE.
FROM PARIS TO NANTES.

Railway in 10 hours.
(See " Outlined Tours," page 24.)

There are two lines of rail to Angers, the
first by Chartres and Le Mans, as preceding
route; the second by Orleans, Blois and
Tours, as Nineteenth Route. Equal average
time occupied by both.

ANG-ERS.

Angers has a population of 50,000. It was for-
merly the Capital of Anjou. The Mayenne river
divides the city into the upper and the lower
town. It contains a number of antique
churches and buildings. Its manufactures
are linen, woollen, cotton, and twists ; it has
sugar and wax-refineries, and boasts a good
trade in wine, corn, and slates.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Castle* once the stronghold of the
Dukes of Anjou. It is in good preservation,
the gateway and portcullis being perfect.

The Cathedral, St. Maurice, dates from the
Twelfth century, and is in fine preservation.

The Museum has several fine Sculptures
by David, a Bust in marble of Napoleon I.
by Canova ; a water-pot purporting to be
one of those used at the marriage at Cana of
Galilee, brought from the East by King Rene.
NANTES.

Nantes has a population of 119,000. It is
situated actually on the very junction of the
Loire and Erdre. It is one of the hand-
somest cities of France. Its bridges and quays
are surprising. Its manufactures are cotton,mus-
lin, and woollen ; it has cannon-foundries, distil-
leries, potteries, ship-building yards, naval store
houses, and an extensive maritime commerce ; it
is specially an export-station for brandies.

Historically Nantes is noted for the
butcheries perpetrated on its citizens in the
year 1793, during the Revolution. At
least 30,000, largely consisting of women
and children, were murdered in the coldest
blood, drowned in the Loire (whence the

130

FRANCE.

term " Noyades"), and commonly tied in
cou )les of opposite sexes (whence the term
' M.iriages Republicains ").

English Church-service is celebrated in the
Consul's house.

English Consul, Captain Clipperton.

United States Consul, F. Olcott, Esq.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

TJie Cathedral It has two towers, 170
feet high. Portions of the structure are of the
the Eleventh, Thirteenth and Fifteenth cen-
turies. It contains the splendid and unique
monument of Francis II., last Duke of
Brittany, and his wife Marguerite de Foix.

The Castle. This is an antique and mas-
sive structure. It is flanked by picturesque
bastions. It dates from the Fourteenth cen-
tury. It has been a residence of nearly all
the Kings of France, from the time of Charles
VIII. to the Revolution of 1789. It was
here that Henry IV. signed the famous
"Edict of Nantes" in the year 1598, which
gave protection to the Protestants in the
profession of their faith, subsequently so
fatally revoked by Louis XIV. in 1685.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Kicclas, a new and
superb building.

The Palais de Justice is a handsome edifice.

The Museum contains above a thousand
Paintings, and three hundred or more Sculp-
tures. It is open on Tuesday, Thursday,
and Saturday, from 12 till 4 o'clock.

The Jardin des Plantes will repay a visit.

THIRTIETH ROUTE.
BORDEAUX TO MARSEILLES.

The South of France.

Railway in 1 6 hours.

(See " Outlined Tours," page 24.)

The Picturesque, the Historical, and the
Agricultural are equally present to the Tourist
in this district. Particularly may its descrip-
tion be preceded by some

Bfiff Agricultural Notices. For hundreds
of miles now the vine is the principal growth of
the country. It flourishes here in eveiy kind of
sort. It is planted in rows about 4 feet apart,
and requires constant attention. Small ploughs,
scarifiers, and grubbers are used between the
rows, and after the crop is gathered, the
lateral branches are all cut off, leaving nothing
but the black crooked stump about 18
inches out of the ground. As soon as the

vine begins to shoot, the process of sticking
begins; all but the fruit-bearing shoots are
cut away ; the wood which it luxuriantly 'pro-
duces would only impoverish the plant.

TOTJLOTJSE.

Toulouse has a population of 125,000. It is
situated in the plain at the foot of the Pyre-
nees, occupying both banks of the river
Garonne. It was the capital of the Kingdom
of the Visigoths during the Fifth century ; but
the relics of its past are gone. It is famous for
the battle fought here on the loth of April,
1814, between the English under Wellington
and the French under Soult, unaware of the
abdication of the Emperor Napoleon I. having
taken place six days previously, a fearful and
useless waste of life.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Place du Capitole, the head-quarter of
business.

The Hotel de Ville.

The Church of St. Sernin, Romanesque of
the Tenth century, is the oldest edifice re-
maining.

The Cathedral, St. Etienne, was partly
built by Count Raymond in the Thirteenth
century.

The Museum has a fine collection of local
antiquities, some paintings, and casts.

CARCASSONNE.

Carcassonne has a population of 2 r ,000. Its
position is very picturesque. It consists of the
lower town which is modern, and the upper
town which is antique. The strong fortifica-
tions of the latter, with walls and towers
ir and 12 feet in thickness, are very
noticeable. It was a redoubtable place in days
of yore, was occupied by the Romans, the
Visigoths, and the Saracens. It has been
famous for the manufacture of cloth. 7000
workers are still engaged in it. It does a
large trade in wine.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Dungeons of the Inquisition, in
the old town. The places are still shown
where the wretched prisoners were fastened
by heavy chains, the chains are still there ;
into the dungeons no light could enter ; the
victims were let down through a hole in the
top of the prison; and " there peace fled and
hope expired." The room of the Inquisition
is shown, where the feet of the accused were
roasted, the fire-place remains. The associa-
tions come out more vividly than agreeably.

The Church of St. Nazaire, formerly the

FRANCE.

Cathedral in the old town. The chapel is
beautiful. " The pillars are the most elegant
Norman the eye ever beheld. The Gothic
windows are full of the most exquisite tracery,
and effulgent with splendid colours. This
building alone is worth going a thousand
miles to see." " Communication of a Tourist,"
1876.

Large Agricultural Shows take place at
Carcassonne.

BEZIERS.

Beziers has a population of 18,000. It is
beautifully situated. It is renowned for the
salubrity of its climate. Its manufactures are
silk, hosiery, dimity, gloves, confectionery, and
verdigris ; and it does a large trade in brandy.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Cathedral, a stately Gothic. It is
joined to the Bishop's palace, situated on the
pinnacle of the hill, and frowning over the
town more like a fortified castle than a church.
The interior is not striking. The Terrace in
front of the cathedral is remarkable for the
beauty of its prospect, the view from this
elevated spot extending over a richly-varied
country, through which the river Orbe winds
to the Mediterranean. It was the scene of
the massacre of the Albigenses in the year
1209, by instructions of the Pope Innocent
III.

CETTE.

Cette has a population of 24,000. It is
situated on the Mediterranean. Its manu-
factures are sulphate of soda, magnesia, and
potash, and its exports of wine amount to
40,000 tuns, and of brandy to 4000, annually.
MONTPELLIER.

Montpellierhas a population of 58,000. Its
manufactures are blankets, cottons, muslins,
paper-hangings, corks, and surgical instra-
ments. It attracts many strangers, especially
English, by its economical living, literary
advantages, and a climate of much efficiency
for invalids.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Triumphal Gate to Louis XIV.

The Peyrou, a splendid promenade. At
its extremity is situated a beautiful fountain,
which, with its vast aqueduct, waters the
town.

The Palais de Justice is a handsome
modem building.

The Jardin des Plantes is well-ordered and
rich.

The Museum was founded by M. Fabre,
from whom it takes its name, the friend of
Alfieri the Florentine writer, and of his wife
the Comtesse d'Albanie. It has valuable
Paintings.

NIMES.

Nimes has a population of 61,000. Its
manufactures are silk, cotton, and woollens.
It is an ancient town, having been subjugated
by the Romans 100 years before the Christian
era. In the Sixteenth centuiy it suffered
much on account of the majority of its inhabit-
ants having embraced Protestantism.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Roman Amphitheatre. This is as
perfect as the Coliseum at Rome. It was
capable of seating 20,000 persons. Its dia-
meter is 437 feet, its height 72 feet.

The Maison Carree, a beautiful antique
temple of the Corinthian order. It is now
used as a Museum. It contains some exqui-
site statuary and some very good pictures.
Amongst the best of the latter are Sigalon's
' ' Narcissus and Locusta experimentalizing
on a Slave with Poison which was intended
for Nero's Brother," and Paul Delaroche's
"Cromwell violently opening the coffin of
Charles I."

The Nymphaum, or Roman bath, called
the Temple of Diana.

The Grande Place. A fine Fountain, by
Pradier, is in the centre. It is memorable
for being the spot where many of the leaders
of the Camisards, in the reign of Louis XIV.,
were broken on the wheel.

The Cabinet of Antiquities of M. Petet
contains models made in cork of all the ancient
houses of Nimes.

133

SAVOY.

THE ROUTE OF CHAMOTJNY
AND MONT BLANC.

This region, originally Italian, was an-
nexed to France, under the Third Napoleon,
in the year 1860, as an equivalent for its aid
in expelling the Austrians from Italy in the
brief campaign that concluded at Solferino in
1 859. The chief towns of Savoy, NICE, Aix-
LES-BAINS, and CnAMBERY,and the important
local districts of the Maritime Alps and the
Cenis Pass and Tunnel, will be found fully
described under the preceding Routes, viz.,
Seventeenth, Twenty- fourth, and Twenty-
sixth.

Even more important is this local district,
crowned by u the Monarch of European Moun-
tains," as being visited " at some time in its
life" by All the World. Aix-les-Bains and
Chambery are frequently used as starting-
points for it; but still more so, and more
numerously, is it entered upon by

THE ROUTE OF GENEVA,

and the Valley of the Arve. Diligences ply
daily between the two extremities, in both
directions, accomplishing the whole distance
nominally in eight, but more accurately in
about ten hours.

The Towns of Savoy on the Route are
Annemasse (the frontier of Switzerland
and France).
Bonneville.
Cluses.
Sallanches.
St. Gervaix.
Chamouny.

CHAMOTJNY.

"You must breakfast, and then you can-
not rush out and up Mont Blanc ad libitum
you must go up in the regular appointed
way, with mule and guides. This matter of
guides is perfectly systematized here ; for, the
mountains being the great over-powering fact
of life, it follows that all that enterprise and
talent which in other places develop them-
selves in various forms, here take the single
channel of climbing mountains. In America,
if a man is a genius, he strikes out a new

'35

way of cleaning cotton; but in Chamoi ny
if he is a genius, he finds a new way of going
up Mont Blanc."

The Mer de Glace is the most interesting of
all the ordinary excursions. The path traverses
the lateral moraine of the glacier, and a grand
view is gained of the \vall of ice, which, in its
final slope into the valley, has a vertical
height of at least 1800 feet. It is con-
torted into the most fantastic shapes into
pinnacles and pyramids of ice, which is of the
deepest blue, and is fissured in every direction.
The Chapeau is soon reached, from which a
lovely picture is presented of the vale of
Chamouny, bathed in the morning sunlight,
while above towers " the stupendous granitic
obelisk of Dru, which has scarcely its equal in
the Alps for apparent insulation and steepness
a monolith by whose side those of Egypt
might stand literally lost through insignifi-
cance."

The Mauvais Pas is next approached, the
terror of timid tourists, but which presents no
difficulty to any one with a tolerably firm foot
and a head that can look without dizziness
down a precipice several hundreds of feet in
depth. It consists of a pathway about a couple
of feet wide, which is rudely cut for two or
three hundred yards along the side of a steep
wall of rock which forms the base of the
Aiguille du Bochard. For the greater safety
of the traveller, an iron rail is riveted into
the rock, which he can grasp when necessary,
but the unguarded side goes sheer down to
the glacier. The path is not, however, alto-
gether without danger. The road still con-
tinues along the bank of the glacier until, at an
elevation of 3000 feet above the valley and 6300
above the sea, the point is attained where the
Mer de Glace is usually traversed. The passage
is quite practicable, and is constantly crossed
with the greatest ease, without either guide or
alpenstock. It conducts to

The Montanvert.lhQ view from the Mont-

anvert is admittedly one of the most magnificent

in the Alps. Professor Forbes says, " We

; are almost tempted to forget that a view so

I universally seen, and so often described, as

136

SAVOY.

that from the Montanvert loses none of its
real majesty in consequence of the ease and
familiarity with which it is visited by thou-
sands of travellers. For myself, repeated visits
and a long residence have only heightened
my admiration of this, certainly one of the
grandest of Alpine views. The Aiguille de
Dm has, in its own way, scarcely a rival, and
there are very few glaciers, indeed, with a
course so undulating and picturesque as the
Mer de Glace, and with banks so wildly
grand, of which the general effect can be so
well seized from any one point."

Ruskin too, perhaps highest of all authority,
writes, " It is a great weakness, not to say
worse than weakness, on the part of travellers
to extol always chiefly what they think fewest
people have seen or can see. I have climbed
much, and wandered much, in the heart of the
high Alps, but I have never yet seen anything
which equalled the view from the cabin of the
Montanvert."

It is a stupendous sight. At the feet, the
glacier, many miles in length, and upwards of
half a mile in width, bearing the appearance,
as its name denotes, of a "sea of ice," ex-
tends in white, stiffened billows for ever appa-
rently motionless. The rocky Aiguilles uplift
their heads 7000 feet in perpendicular height
above the glacier. Turning round, the look
descends into the green vale of Chamouny. So
that winter and summer meet the eye almost
simultaneously here, while Mont Blanc towers
immediately above all, 16,000 feet above the
level of the sea.

MONT BLANC.

Mont Blanc was ascended for the first time,

in the year 1786, by Jacques Balmat, one of
the Chamouny guides. Repeated attempts
had been made for ten or eleven years previ-
ously, as that celebrated man of science, De
Saussure, had offered a reward to any oae who
could discover a practicable route. On August
3, 1787, De Saussure himself, with Balmat, and
seventeen other guides, fulfilled his long-
desired purpose, and, after encountering many
obstacles, planted his foot on the summit.
Since that time numerous ascents have been
made ; that of Mr. Albert Smith, in August,
1851, attracting, perhaps, the greatest degree
of attention. In many seasons, the weather
being favourable, nearly 100 persons have-
reached the top, and hardly a season now
passes \vithout frequent ascents to the summit
of Mont Blanc.

FROM FRANCE INTO SWITZER-
LAND,

FROM CHAMOUNY TO MARTIGNY.

By the Forclaz.

In ascending these mountains there is just
enough danger to make one's nerves a little
unsteady ; not by any means as much as in
such an express train as the " Flying Dutch-
man " or the " Wild Irishman ; " still it comes
here in a more demonstrable form. Here, for
instance, the path edges a precipice 2000 feet
deep ; pine trees, which when passed at the
foot were seen to be 100 feet high, have-
dwindled to the size of pins. No barrier of
i any kind protects the dizzy edge, and the rid-
den mule is particularly conscientious to stand
on the very verge, no matter how wide the
path may be.

133

SWITZERLAND.

SWITZERLAND is a small republic situated
in the midst of the European Continent. Its
length is about 200 miles ; its breadth is about
156 miles; containing an area of about 16,000
square miles. It is a land of mountains, valleys,
lakes, glaciers, torrents, and waterfalls.

The Mountains, The Juras divide Switzer-
land from France on the north ; the Alps from
France on the west ; from Germany on the
east ; and from Italy on the south and south-
east.

The Lakes. The principal lakes of Switzer-
land are Constance, Geneva, Zurich, Lucerne
Neuchatel, Bienne, Thun, and Erieuz.

The Rivers. The principal are the Rhine,
Rhone, and Aar.

The Glaciers are streams of ice which are
continually descending through the clefts in
the high mountain-chains.

Avalanches are the descent of immense
quantities of snow which have accumulated
on the summit of the mountains, and which
continually fall down their sides, sweeping
trees, rocks, and even villages before them in
their wild career. Byron calls them " thunder-
bolts of snow."

139

The Population of Switzerland at the last
census amounted to 2,669,147. "The peculiar
feature in the condition of the population,"
writes Laing, "is the air of well-being, the
neatness, the sense of propriety, imprinted on
the people themselves, their dwellings, their
plots of land. Some cottages are adorned
with long texts from Scripture, painted on or
burnt into the wood, in front, over the door ;
others, especially in the Simmenthal and
Haslithal, bear the pedigree of the builder and
owner. These show that the property has
been held sometimes for 200 years by the same
family.

Politically, Socially, and Pastorally, we
quote from the effectively-condensed sum-
mary in the "Practical Swiss Guide," as
follows :

Politically." Switzerland consists of 22
cantons, or counties. These constitute the
Confederation or Republic.

" The Federal Council holds the highest
authority, consisting of seven members elected
for three years from the Federal Assembly.

" The Federal Assembly is composed of
the National Council (one representative for
140

SWITZERLAND.

each 20,000 inhabitants) and the Council of
States (two representatives from each canton).
The representatives are voted for by every lay
citizen of twenty years old.

" The Army comprises 200,000. The whole
male population is trained to military service.

"The land is parcelled out amongst the
masses, who thus form a small landed pro-
prietary.

" Education is enforced by law.

" There is a ' free press ' and ' religious
liberty,' except for the Jesuits, who have been
expelled since the Sonderbund emeute in
1848.

11 Socially. The aristocracy of Switzerland
is merely a question of means. The utmost
class-exclusiveness characterizes each circle.

"The popular amusements are I. Rifle-
practice : the targets are maintained by the
government, and a general ' Tir Federal ' is
held every two years. 2. Schwingfeste,
wrestling-matches,' which foster dissipation
and breed ill-feeling among the contending
cantons.

" Pastorally Every inhabitant of Switzer-
land is entitled to a cow's grazing on the Alp
i. e. ' common pasture ') of his parish. A cow
is worth 2O/., its average of milk for the day,
3olbs., its average of cheese for the season,
2 cwt. There are 1,000,000 cows. They
move up as the summer advances, and down
as it declines. Three caretakers are attached
to every forty cows, to whose lodging alone
the term chalet (i. <?., ' cow-house ') belongs ;
they milk and make cheese for all ; and the
proceeds are equally divided. Each canton
has its own Ranz de Vetches, rude musical
calls for the herds in Germany, Kuhreihen
'rows of cows,' because they come in that
order when so called for). The winter is spent
in wood-carving and jollity." "Practical
Swiss Guide."

Language. The most frequented routes
in Switzerland may be traversed by those
speaking only the English language. French
is generally understood by the upper classes
throughout the country. The language of the
people is French in the cantons of the west
and south ; Italian predominates in the south-
east ; and German is spoken in northern,
eastern, and central cantons.

Guides for the mountains, etc., cost from
6 to 8 francs per day. They are expected to
carry about 20 Ibs. of baggage if in the em-
ploy of walking tourists ; they are scarcely of
use unless to walkers.

Carriages, with two horses, cost from 30 to

141

40 francs per day, and 2 or 3 francs pour-boire
for the driver.

Outlined Tours in Switzerland are given in
the completest detail at pp. 1114, to which
reference should be made.

For tourist purposes, Switzerland may be
best divided into three sections, Northern,
Central, and Southern.

NORTHERN SECTION.

BASEL, ZURICH, SCHAFFHAUSEN, THE VAL-
LEY OF THE RHINE, AND LAKE OF
CONSTANCE.

BASEL.

Railway from Paris in 13 hours.

Bale, or Basel, or Basle, has a population of
45,000. It is the Capital of the Canton of the
same name. The city is divided by the Rhine
into Great and Little Bale, which are con-
nected by a bridge. It owes its entire im-
portance to its commercial situation on the
frontiers of France, Germany, and Switzer-
land. It manufactures ribbons.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, commenced in the year
1010, and finished in the year 1019, restored
after afire in the year 1185, and again, after an
earthquake, in the year 1356, which destroyed
the greater part of it. It was in this building
that the famous Council of Romish Prelates,
consisting of 500 members, met for the purpose
of rectifying the state of the Church. It began
in 143 r, and continued its convocation for seven-
teen years. The Pope, Eugenius IV., excom-
municated the council.

The Museum has some fine paintings and
drawings of Holbein the younger.

The Library is situated in the same build-
ing. It contains 85,000 volumes, and 4000
MSS., some annotated by Luther, Melanc-
thon, Erasmus, and Zwinglius.

The Town-hall, Rathhaus, is very antique.

The Church of St. Elisabeth is a fine mo-
dern building.

A Fountain of the Fourteenth century is
noticeable.

ZURICH.
Railway from Bale in 2 hours.

Zurich and its suburbs have a population of
58,000. The city is situated on the Lake of
the same name, and on the river Limmat
which flows from the Lake. It is the Capital
of Protestant Switzerland; and it was at Zurich
142

SWITZERLAND.

that the Reformation first took its ground in
Switzerland. The inhabitants are distinguished
for their industry, enterprise, and numerous
public institutions. The chief of the latter
are a University; a Polytechnic School, a
magnificent building ; a Deaf and Dumb
Institution ; an Asylum for the Blind ; an In-
stitution for Medicine and Surgery; and
numerous Schools for the instruction of the
poor.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Minster. This was the scene of Zwing-
lius' preachings.

The Church of St. Peter, of which Lavater,
the great physiognomist, was the minister.
He was shot by a French soldier at the
capture of Zurich in the year 1779, and
died from the wound three months afterwards.

The Town Library is large, containing !
55,000 volumes, numerous precious manu- j
scripts, and letters. Among the latter are j
three from Lady Jane Grey.

The Church of St. August in has some
good paintings.

The Botanic Garden is pretty, with a
famous height called the Katz.

Promenade of the Hohe, or High Pro-
menade, an avenue of Linden Trees, with
a superb view from the height, stands to the
north-east of the city.

The Uetliberg, 6 miles distant, is much
visited for its fine Alpine view.

THE LAKE OF ZURICH

is navigated by numerous steamers. It is
24 miles long.

THE ROUTE OF THE SPLUGEN
INTO ITALY

extends from Zurich, by the Lake, passing
also the Lake of Wallenstadt, and Ragatz, to
Coire, served also, so far, by a continuous line
of railway. From Coire diligences proceed
by Spliigen to Chiavenna in twelve hours and
a half, and thence in three hours to Colico, on
the Lake of Como, ITALY.

FROM ZURICH TO THE RIGI.

The Rigi is best visited from Lucerne (see
further on). Direct railway from Zurich to
Lucerne in two hours. The alternative route
is from Zurich to Lucerne by Horgen, Zug,
Arth, and the Rigi. In this latter case, leave
Zurich by an early morning boat (or by rail,
ma Zug), arrive at Arth before noon, so as to
ifford time to reach the Rigi-Kulm early in
the afternoon of the same day.

THE FALL OF THE ROSSBERG.

At Goldau the disastrous catastrophe is
observable which occurred on the 2nd of
September, in the year 1806. Then, a large
portion of the side of the Rossberg, nearly
3 miles long, 1000 feet broad, and 100 feet
thick, became detached from the mountain
and slid down, engulfing the underlying vil-
lages, and ploughing up fields, woods, and
houses for miles and miles, nor checking its
fatal course before destroying 500 persons, and
property to the value of 25o,ooo/. The then
village of Goldau was buried nearly TOO feet
beneath the rocks. The bell which hung in
the church- steeple just escaped burial. It
only took five minutes to transform this
lovely valley into a field of desolation. The
anniversary of the occasion is celebrated in
Arth by a religious ceremony. Here the as-
cent of THE RIGI commences from this side.
(See further on, under the heading of " LU-
CERNE.")

FROM ZURICH TO SCHAFFHAUSEN.
Railway in 2 hours.

The Railway passes the famous Falls of the
Rhine at the station of Dachsen. The Rail-
way on the opposite bank of the river is at the
station of Neuhausen.

THE FALLS OF THE RHINE.

The Falls of the Rhine, near Schaff hausen,
are amongst the largest in Europe. Though
nothing in comparison with such Falls as
Niagara, they are imposing and beautiful.
Shortly after passing the pretty town ot
Schaffhausen, the Rhine hastens, hurrying
on for about three miles, narrowed between
woody knolls and low rocks. By these
rocks, in the pass between Dachsen and
Neuhausen, the river is divided into three
shoots, which dash down a depth of about
seventy feet. The spectacle of the Falls is
exceedingly fine on both banks, where every
accommodation is equally made for visitors
to enjoy the scene.

A fine view of the Falls is obtained from
the garden of the Castle of Laufen, on the
left bank of the river. It is immediately
opposite the Schweizerhof, from which
visitors can cross in a ferry-boat, fare half-a-
franc. The land belongs to a private
family, but, by contract with the Canton of
Zurich, strangers are permitted to visit the
castle and grounds ; fee, one franc. A wooden
balcony overhangs the rush of waters. The
144

SWITZERLAND.

actual fall here is about 80 feet. The
water's division into three shoots can be well
seen. The largest body of water falls during
the months of June and July. Although
this, one of the finest falls in Europe, is not
a Niagara, nevertheless the general landscape
is superior to that in the vicinity of
Niagara Falls. The range of the Alps,
including Mont Blanc, distant 185 miles,
can be seen from this point, and this alone
would form a feature of the place.

FROM SCHAFFHATJSEN TO CON-
STANCE.

Railway in an hour and a quarter, or
steam, ascending the river in seven hours ;
descending from Constance to Schafthausen,
in about half that time. In German, Constanz.

THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE

is partly Swiss and partly German. For the
city of Constance, see under the heading of
" GERMAN EMPIRE."

CENTRAL SECTION.

NEUCHATEL, BIENNE, SOLEURE, BERNE,
FRIBOURG, THUN, INTERLAKEN, BRIENZ

AND THE GlESSBACH FALLS, THE BERNESE

OBERLAND, LAUTERBRUNNEN, GRINDEL-
WALD, MEYRINGEN, THE GRIMSEL PASS,
THE FURCA PASS, AND THE ST. GOTTHARD
PASS DOWN TO THE LAKE OF LUCERNE,
LUCERNE, AND THE RIGI.

NEUCHATEL.

Railway from Paris in 13 hours.

Neuchatel has a population of 14,000. It
is the Capital of the Canton. It was originally
a French province belonging to the House of
Chalons ; when that House became extinct
in the year 1707, it descended to the King
of Prussia as the most direct heir. At the
Treaty of Paris, May 26, 1857, the King
of Prussia renounced his rights to the
Canton. In German, Neuenburg.

The principal produce of the Canton is
wine ; both red and white, still and sparkling,
are good. A large portion of the inhabitants
manufacture watches ; many of those sold in
Geneva are manufactured here.

The Charitable Institutions of Neuchatel.
are numerous.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Old Castle, on the height behind
the town. It was originally the residence

of the French Princes. It is now the seat
of the Cantonal Authorities.

The Museum of Natural History, a modern
edifice, called " the Gymnase," situated on
the border of the Lake, owes its fine
collection to Professor Agassiz.

The Palais de Rougemont contains a very
good collection of modern paintings.

Excursions

To the Summit of the Ckaumont.Time
by carriage an hour and a half. The view
is magnificent.

The Gorge of the Seyon is near the town
a deep fissure of the Jura Mountains,
through which the river Seyon escapes into
the Lake of Neuchatel.

The Stone called Pierre- a-Bot, or toad-stone,
is a granite boulder, containing about 14,000
cubic feet, supposed to have been floated
on the glaciers (or some other way) from
the top of the Alps to the side of the Juras,
the latter mountains being of limestone
formation, and not granitic. It is about
two miles above the town.

BIENNE.

Railway from NeuchStel in I hour.

Bienne has a population of 7000, of whom
700 are Roman Catholic, the rest Protestant.
The town stands about I mile from the head
of the Lake of Bienne, and at the foot of
the Juras mountain-range. In German, Biel.

SOLETJRE.

Railway from Bienne in | hour.

Soleure has a population of 7000 ; the
majority Roman Catholic. The city was the
Solodurum of the Romans, and is one of the
oldest remaining cities on this side of the
Alps. In German, Solothurn.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Ursus Cathedral erected
between the years 1762 and 1773.

The Clock-tower is the oldest extant edifice
of Soleure.

The Arsenal contains 1000 suits of armour.

The Museum has a fine collection of the
fossils of the Juras, and is rich in minerals
generally.

The House in which the last year of his life
was spent by Thaddeus Kosciusko, the cele-
brated Polish patriot.

A pretty excursion in the vicinity of Soleure
is to

The Weissenstein, a mountain 4000 feet
above the level of the sea. It requires about
three hours to make the ascent. There is an
146

SWITZERLAND.

hotel at the top, and many Swiss invalids re-
main there during the summer on account of
the air and the goats' whey-cure ; it is not a
lively place, however, for the world at large.

BERNE.

Railway from Soleure in ij hour.
Railway direct from Bienne in I hour.

Berne has a population of 36,000. It is the
capital of the Canton, and of Switzerland,
inasmuch as it is the seat of the Swiss Govern-
ment. It stands boldly above the River Aar.
Numerous quaint and ornamental fountains
-decorate its streets. As the city derives its
name from the word " aren," the German
of " Bears," so the figure of that interesting
-quadruped is conspicuous everywhere in the
Armorial bearings of the Canton, on the
fountains, and on the town-gates and houses.
For many centuries living Bears have been kept
in a very liberal manner at the expense of the
city ; and a fund is actually still devoted to
that purpose. In German, Bern.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Bear Pit. The present den is near the
New Bridge, and may be seen by all who pass.
An Englishman fell into this pit on the night
of the 3rd of March, 1861, and was torn to
pieces after a desperate struggle.

The Cathedral dates from the Sixteenth cen-
tury. The principal entrance is very beautiful :
the sculptures represent the " Last Judgment."
The organ is celebrated and equal to that of
Fribourg.

The Promenade. The old cemetery, con-
verted into a promenade, has a bronze statue of
oneBerchtold de Zahringen, the ancient alleged
founder of Berne. From this promenade a very
lovely view of the Bernese Alps may generally
be had. The " platform," as it is called, is
planted with fine trees, and stands about 100
feet immediately above the River Aar.

The Museum contains the best Geological,
Zoological, and Ornithological specimens in
Switzerland.

The Federal Palace is where the National
Parliament, the Federal Assembly, holds its
sittings. Open to be visited at all times ; the
concierge lives on the right of the principal
entrance. During the month of July the sit-
ings usually take place. The debates are often
very interesting. They are carried on in Ger-
man, French, and Italian.

The Burger-Spital, or town-hospital, is a fine
ling.

The Rath-house, or town-hall, dates from the
year 1406.

The Heilliggeist Church is near the railway-
station.

The Enge-hill commands a fine view.

FRIBOURG.
Railway from Berne in I hour.

Fribourg has a population of 12,000. It is
picturesquely situated on the right bank of the
Sarine. In German, Freyburg.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Suspension Bridges. Magnificent
bridges. The longer of the two is the longest
single suspension in Europe, being 900 feet in
length, and 180 feet high. That above the Falls
of Niagara is 1278 feet long. It was finished in
the year 1838.

The Cathedral, St. Nicholas, contains a
famous organ. The edifice was built between
the Thirteenth and Sixteenth centuries. The
principal portal is ornamented with singular
bas-reliefs representing the " Last Judgment."
The Organ is considered one of the very
finest in Europe, it has sixty-seven stops and
1800 pipes, some of the latter are thirty-two
feet long. The organist plays on it at all
hours for travellers.

The Lime-Tree is the vast trunk of an
ancient lime-tree, said to date back 400 years
to the Battle of Morat.

An Excursion can easily be made to the
battle-field of Morat, two hours' drive from
Fribourg. The Battle of Morat was fought
on the 22nd of June, 1476. Charles the Bold,
Duke of Burgundy, was there defeated by the
Swiss. He was said to have lost his treasures
at Grandson, his glory at Morat, and his life
at Nancy.

THUN.
Railway from Berne in f hour.

Thun has a population of 4000. It is a
picturesque and delightful town, situated on
the river Aar, a short distance from the Lake
of Thun. The beautiful suburbs of Thun
make it one of the most agreeable summer
residences in Switzerland.

Thun forms the most frequented approach to
the Bernese Oberland, the favourite summer
resort of tourists in search of the sublime.

THE LAKE OF TIT UN

is but 1 1 miles long by 3 wide. It is veiy
beautiful. Steamers from Thun to Darligen
in one hour; thence by rail to Intcrlaken
in ten minutes.

148

SWITZEELAND.

THE PASS OF THE GEMMI

lies between the Lake of Thun and the Sim-
plon, and is described under the Southern
Section of Switzerland, further on.

INTERLAKEN.

Steam and rail from Thun in

hour.

Interlaken is composed principally of lodg-
ing-houses and hotels. It attracts in sum-
mer a large colony, chiefly English. It re-
sembles rather a country village than a town.
Its situation is lovely. In front of it is

THE BERNESE OBERLAND.

There is a fixed tariff for horses and guides
all over the Bernese Oberland, which may be
seen at all the hotels. Guides, from 6 to
S francs per day, and 6 francs return-fare.
Horses 13 francs per day.

To Lauterbrunnen and return, voiture with
one horse, 9 francs; with two horses, 18
francs. Donkeys, by the day, 6 francs; by
the hour, i^ franc.

From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, riding
or walking, requires nearly two hours. It is
up-hill. Unspunnen Castle, on the way, is
the supposed residence allotted by Byron to
Manfred.

LAUTERBRUNNEN.

Carriage-road from Interlaken 2 hours' drive.

Lauterbrunnen means "nothing but foun-
tains." The name is derived from the num-
ber of " streams " which precipitate themselves
into the valley from its lateral precipices.

THE FALL OF THE STAUBBACH

is 800 feet in height. The water, precipitated
from such an immense height, is broken into
fine spray, resembling dust, long before it
arrives at the bottom, whence its name
staub, meaning "dust." Byron, in "Man-
fred," compares its appearance to the Tail of
the white horse on which Death is mounted
in the Apocalypse. The best time to see the
fjll is between the hours of 9 A.M. and i P.M.

THE UPPER VALLEY OF LAUTERBRUNNEN

will well repay a visit. The Falls of the
Schmadribach are equal to any in Switzerland.
This excursion requires one whole day from
Lauterbrunnen.

From Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald there
are two ways : one, the high-road ; time
driving, two hours ; distance about 10 miles
ascending. The other and most interesting
route is over

149

THE WENGERN ALP.

This, during fine weather, is one of the most
frequented paths in Switzerland. Lady-pe-
destrians traverse it. Mules and horses are
used with perfect safety. Ladies not able to
walk or ride may pass in chaise-a-porteurs, an
easy-chair carried on poles by three or four
men. The route rises in face of

THE JUNGFRAU, OR VIRGIN.

The Virgin-Mountain, long unascended,

is here seen in all her glory rising to an

elevation of 13,700 feet above the level of

the sea, crowned with perpetual snow. From

the Wengern Alp, about noon, may be seen,

| often every ten minutes, immense avalanches,

j attended by a sound like thunder, descending

| the Jungfrau's sides into the gorge of Triim-

; leten, which divides her from the Wengern

I Alp, whence arise vast clouds of snow-dust

! like foam.

From the Wengern Alp there is a descent
! to Grindelwald.

GRINDELWALD.

Carriage-road from Interlaken in 3^ hours.
Horse-path from Lauterbrunnen in 8| hours.
Descent from the Wengern Alp in 4 hours.

The scattered village of Grindelwald has a
! population of 3000. It is the centre of all
i that is grand and majestic in Swiss scenery.
I It is overlooked by almost all the great Ober-
land giants, the Jungfrau, the Monch, the
Eiger, the Wetterhorn or Peak of Tempests,
the Schreckhorn or Peak of Terror, the Fin-
steraarhorn or Peak of Darkness. All
range in height from 12,000 to 14,000
feet above the level of the sea, their sum-
mits covered with everlasting ice and snow.
Two large glaciers descend into the Grindel-
wald valley from the vast snow-fields above.
The mower may be seen busy with his scythe
within a few steps of the solid ice-stream.
While attempting the ascent of the Schreck-
horn, one of the most arduous in the Oberland,
the Rev. Mr. Elliott, of Brighton, a member of
the Alpine Club, lost his footing, and, being
unable to check his descent down a steep
snow-slope, was dashed to pieces on the
glacier beneath. A granite slab, with the
simple initials, " J. M. E.," in gilt letters, now
marks his last resting-place in the little church-
yard of Grindelwald.

The Upper and Lower Glaciers at Grindel-
wald should be visited.

150

SWITZERLAND.

THE FAULHORN

may be ascended from Grindelwald. From
its summit, 8000 feet above the sea, one of the
nearest and best views of the whole range of
the Bernese Alps can be obtained. The excur-
sion occupies eight hours : five hours to make
the ascent, and three hours for the descent.
Guide to the summit, 6 francs ; if he remain
all night, 9.

FROM GRINDELWALD TO MEY-
RINGEN, OB REICHENBACH.

Horse-path, time, 8 hours ; horse and man,
20 francs.

The way passes the Baths of Rosenlaui ;
close by which is the Glacier of Rosenlaui,
encased between the Mounts Wetterhorn and
Engelhorn. This, although one of the smallest,
is one of the sweetest and purest of the
Glaciers of the Grindelwald district.

The descent into the Valley of Meyringen
passes the Falls of the Reichenbach. The
whole stream is a series of falls or leaps, the
middle fall being the longest.

MEYRINGEN.

From Grindelwald horse-path, in 8 hours.
From Lucerne, by the Briinig Pass, in 9 hours.

Meyringen, a long village, has a population
of 2500. It is the chief place in the valley of
Hash'. Six different roads meet at Meyringen :
from Grindelwald ; from Brienz ; from Lu-
cerne, by the Brunig Pass ; from Wasen on
the route of the St. Gotthard, by the Susten
Pass ; from Engelberg, by the Joch Pass ;
and from the Grimsel.

From Meyringen to the Hospice of the
Grimsel, the Furca Pass, and Andermatt on
the St. Gotthard Pass, horse and man to the
Grimsel, 28 francs ; time, eight hours.

THE PASS OF THE GRIMSEL.

This is one of the grandest and most in-
teresting excursions across the Alps. Half-
way to the Grimsel are the Falls of the Aar, at
the Handeck. This is one of the finest cataracts
in Switzerland. The Hospice of the Grimsel
is in a bleak and solitary position, 7000 feet
above the level of the sea. It lodges travellers.
Passing on, the Todten-See, or " Lake of the
Dead," so called from the sterility of its
situation, is seen. Further on still

THE FURCA PASS,

with its new and good carriage-road, conducts
to Andermatt. The Furca Pass is 8000 feet

above the level of the sea. Andermatt is on
the St. Gotthard Pass, and in direct communi-
cation with Lucerne, which see.

From Meyringen to Brienz the distance is
but 8 miles ; diligences traverse the road
twice a day.

BRIENZ.
Steam from Interlaken in I hour.

Brienz has a population of 2300. This
long village fe remarkable for its wooden- ware
sculptures of the utmost variety and cleverness.
It is in a lovely situation at the head of the
lake, and is in vicinity to the celebrated Falls
of the Giessbach. From Brienz to the Giess-
bach row-boats occupy half an hour, fare
I franc. Steamers ply daily to and from Inter-
laken and Brienz, in one hour, stopping at
the Giessbach.

THE FALLS OF THE GIESSBACH.

The Falls are very beautiful, and easy of
ascent. An illumination of the Falls takes
place every night during the summer season.
It is effected by means of Bengal lights.
Visitors are charged i franc each.

THE PASS OF THE BRUNIG

intervenes between the Bernese Oberland and
Lucerne. It is fine. Diligences traverse it
from Meyringen or Brienz to Alpnach, on the
Lake of Lucerne, in from seven to eight hours.
The villages passed from Brienz are
Brunigen, Lungern, Giswyl, Sachseln, Sar-
nen, Alpnach. Thence steam to Lucerne in
one hour and a quarter.

LUCERNE.

Railway from Bale in 4 hours.
Railway from Zurich in i| hours.

Lucerne has a population of 15,000, nearly
all of whom are Roman Catholics. It is the
Capital of the Canton of the same name.
The city is highly picturesque, and the
environs are noted for the exquisite beauty
and grandeur of the scenery. The city stands
on the Lake of Lucerne, which has been from
time immemorial acknowledged to be the
most beautiful of all lakes. In German, Liizern.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Capell-briicke, a bridge open at the sides,
but roofed ; and on the ceiling a set of
pictures representing episodes in the lives of
St. Leger and St. Maurice, the patron-saints
of the city.

Ancient Tower in. the middle of the river. It

152

SWITZERLAND.

was formerly used as a lighthouse, whence the
name of the city (Lucerne signifying "light-
house.")

The Muhlenbrucke is another bridge,
ornamented with thirty-six pictures repre-
senting the "Dance of Death."

The Arsenal, situated near the Muhlenbrucke
bridge, has interesting historic arms.

The Cathedral has a fine organ.

The Lion of Lucerne, a monument, dedicated
in the year 1821, to the Officers and Soldiers of
the Swiss Guard who died in Paris in the year o f
the Revolution, 1792, defending the Royal
Family. The officers numbered twenty-six ; the
soldiers 760. The model was made at Rome by
the Danish Thorwaldsen, and was executed by
Ahorn, of Constance, in the short space of
six months. It is a Lion of colossal size
about 30 feet long, by 20 feet high, cut out of
the face of a solid sandstone-rock. The Lion
holds the French fleur-de-lis under his paw,
he endeavours to protect it with his last
breath, while his life-blood oozes from a
wound made by a spear, the broken head
of which still remains in his side. The
Inscription is " Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti"
The position is charming, in a garden belong-
ing to Colonel Pfyffer's house. A basin of
water lies at the foot of the rock ; from the
summit of the rock hang ivy and other
creeping plants. The superincumbent be-
longings are prettily reflected in the water
below. In a small chapel near are the
armorial bearings of the deceased officers,
with the inscription " In-victis pax " (peace
to the unconquered). Mass is said here for
the dead on the anniversary, August loth,
of each year. The cloth of the altar of the
chapel was embroidered by the Duchess of
Angouleme, daughter of Louis XVI.

THE LAKE OF LUCERNE.

Numerous Steamers ply from Lucerne to
Flvielen in two hours and a half, stopping
at the leading places on the lake-borders.

The Lake of Lucerne (or the Lake of
the Four Forest Cantons, so-called from the
four adjacent cantons of Lucerne, Schwytz,
Uri, and Unterwalden, these cantons ex-
clusively forming its sides) is celebrated for
its superiority to every other lake in
Switzerland in the grandeur of its scenery
and its historical associations connected with
the exploits of William Tell, the national
hero of Switzerland, and his fellow- workers,
the organizers of its independence.

It occupies half an hour from Lucerne to
Weggis.

153

At Weggis those intending to ascend the
Rigi on foot or by horse disembark. The
ascent occupies three hours.

In three-quarters of an hour is reached
Vitznau, whence a railway runs to the Kulm
in an hour and a half.

In an hour Beckenried is touched at,
beautifully situated on the Lake.

Opposite Beckenried is the small village
of Gersau, at the foot of the Rigi Schei-
deck.

In an hour and three-quarters is reached
Brunnen, the finest position perhaps on the
Lake. Outside the Sustenhaus, a fresco
appears of the "Three Confederates," in
memory of the alliance between the three
cantons they represented after the battle of
Morgarten, December igth, 1315.

Turning into

The Bay of Uri the banks become more
perpendicular and grand ; lofty mountains
with snowy summits add to the effect.

A short distance from Brunnen is the
" Rutli " of Schiller's play of " William
Tell," where, according to tradition, Walter
Fiirst, Werner, Stauffacher, and Arnold of
the Melchthal met on the night of the 7th
of November, 1307, accompanied by thirty
men from the three cantons of Uri, Schwytz,
and Unterwalden, for the purpose of taking
a solemn oath to deliver their country from
the tyranny of the Austrian oppressors of the
House of Hapsburg.

TelVs Chapel is situated on a small plateau
by the water-side. It was erected by the Canton
of Uri in the year 1388, thirty-one years after
the death of William Tell, consecrated to his
memory in the presence of 114 persons,
who, it is said, knew him personally. Tell
leaped here on shore from the boat in
which Gessler, the Austrian Governor, was
conveying him to prison, and escaped. The
traditionary circumstances in the life of Tell
are cherished in the memories of his country-
men, with the fondest affection. Yet there
are those who are bold enough to assert that the
whole story is a fable.

FLUELEN, the port of the Canton of Uri, a
petty hamlet, closes the lake.

THE ST. GOTTHARD PASS.

From FKielen into Italy.

Diligences daily to Bellinzona in fifteen
hours ; to Milan in twenty-four hours.

Two miles from Fliielen is
AL.TDOBF.

Altdorf, a large town, has a population of
2800. It is the Capital of the Canton of Uri.

154

SWITZERLAND.

The traditional spot here is pointed out where
Tell shot the apple from off his son's head.
The spot where he is said to have stood is
marked by a fountain. At about 100 paces
from it another fountain marks the spot where
Gessler had hung his hat to be worshipped by
the passers, and where the son of Tell was
bound with the apple on his head, preparatory
to the famous shot which led to freedom for
Switzerland.

From Altdorf to Andermatt, seven hour's
drive ascending the defile of the Reuss, presents
a road unsurpassed for desolate and magnificent
scenery.

An immense block of granite, called the
Teufelstein, or Devil's Stone, is passed.

Further up, the Devil's Bridge marks the
grandest portion of the Pass. A new bridge,
which was built above the old one in the year
1830, is of granite, and crosses the savage
gorge of the Reuss, where that stream plunges
down in the most striking manner. The old
bridge is 70 feet above the river. It was the
scene of a desperate fight in the year 1799,
when the French attacked the Austrians and
drove them down the Pass, and when Suwarrow,
in his turn, at the head of 25,000 Russians,
drove the French after them at an immense
sacrifice of life.

The table-land is reached at Andermatt, a
petty village.

The FurcaPass (already described), into the
Bernese Oberland, lies to the right.

At Hospenthal commences a new ascent on
the St. Gotthard, zigzagging for two hours
and a half to the summit. Within a circle of
ten miles from this are the sources of the Rhine,
the Rhone, the Reuss, and the Ticino. The
passage of the St. Gotthard is not without
danger in spring and winter, the snow falling
oftentimes upon it to a depth of 60 feet, from
which the rocks often remain covered all the
summer.

Near the summit is a stone on which the in-
scription "Suwarrow, Victor" commemorates
his victory over the French in the year 1 799.
Here he was repulsed by the French for the
first time ; indignant, he caused a grave to be
dug, and lying down in it, declared he would
die where "his children " had suffered disgrace.
The appeal aroused them to a more determined
attack, and the French were driven from the
position as already described.

At the foot of the Italian side of the Pass is
BEKLINZONA.

Bellinzona has a population of 2500. It is
one of the Capitals of the Canton of Tessin,

155

alternating with Locarno and Lugano as the
seat of Government. It was formerly a place
of political international importance, and was
defended with walls. Three castles now re-
main. The possession of the town was a fre-
quent bone of contention between the Swiss
and Milanese.

From Bellinzona to Magadino or Locarno
is about two hours' drive.

MAGADINO-LOCARNO.

Steamers leave both these points daily for
Arona at the other end of the lake.

THE LAGO MAGGIORE.

The Lake of Maggiore is 50 miles long by
3 miles wide on the average. The most
northern portion only belongs to Switzerland,
the remainder to ITALY.

From Luino on the Lake of Maggiore (Italy)
to Lugano (Switzerland), diligences run daily
in about three hours.

LUGANO.

Diligences from Bellinzona in 4 hours.

Lugano has a population of 6000. It is
most charmingly situated on the borders of the
Lake of the same name. The city divides with
Bellinzona and Locarno the seat of govern-
ment of the Swiss Canton of Tessin.

An Excursion is commonly made to the
summit of the

MONTE SALVATORE.

The view from its summit is one of the
finest. Man and horse for the ascent and re-
turn, 9 francs.

THE LAKE OF LUGANO.

From Lugano to Porlezza by steamer in one
and a half hours. From Lugano to Porlezza
by row-boat in three hours. The shores of the
Lake of Lugano are rich with groves and white
villas peeping out from the midst of luxuriant
vines and fig-trees.

Porlezza terminates Switzerland on this
side. It is connected by omnibuses, etc., with
Menaggio, a drive of from two to three hours,
on the Lake of Como, in ITALY.

THE RIGI.

(From Zurich, or from Lucerne, see under
both those headings.)

Points of ascent, from Arth, from Kiiss-
nacht, from Weggis, and from Vitznau.

Height of the top, Rigi Kulm, 6000 feet
above the level of the sea.
i -6

SWITZERLAND.

The summit of the Rigi should be reached
before the sun sets, as then there are two
chances for "the sight," viz., Night and
Morning. But be not disappointed, O tra-
veller, if you neither see Sol rise nor set, that
being the fate of about four-fifths of those who
make the ascent in hope.

THE ASCENT BY WEGGIS

is by far the most picturesque. After
ascending a while, the scenery becomes singu-
larly wild and beautiful. Vast walls and cliffs
of conglomerate rise above the way, up which
the path winds in zigzags. Below, pines,
vales, fields, and hills, themselves large enough
for mountains, stretch. At the distant foot of
the ascent, broadens out the lake of the Four
Forest Cantons, with beautiful islands, bays,
capes, and headlands, consecrated by the muse
of Schiller and the heroism of Tell.

THE DESCENT BY KUSSNACHT

occupies about two hours and a half. It
passes a Chapel of William Tell, as well as a
Ruin said to be part of one of Gessler's castles.
This chapel was restored in the year 1834. I*
is ornamented with a rude representation of
the death of Gessler. Tradition holds that in
the Hohle-Gasse, or the Hollow Way, he met
his fate.

From Kiissnacht to Lucerne, steamers run
in three-quarters of an hour.

SOUTHERN SECTION.

Geneva, the Lake of Geneva, and its ripar-
ine Towns, the Passes to Chamouny and Mont
Blanc, the Baths of Leuk, and the Simplou
Pass into Italy.

GENEVA.

Railway from Paris in 16 hours.

Geneva has a population of 48,000. Nearly
4000 of these are employed in the manufac-
ture of watches and jewellery. The city is
situated on the southern end of the Lake of
the same name and the debouchure of the
river Rhone.

Geneva, when seen from the lake, presents
the most majestic appearance, both sides of
the river being adorned with fine quays and
houses, and the hills forming a beautiful back-
ground.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Streets which contain the most elegant
shops. The Rue du Rhone, Rue de la Corra-
terie, Rue du Mont Blanc, the Quai des
Bergues, and the Grand Quai.

The Cathedral Church, St. Pierre, is a
pure Byzantine structure, disfigured in the
Eighteenth century by a Corinthian portico, in
imitation of the Pantheon at Rome curious
combination of Puritanism with Heathenism
and Mediaevalism.

The Roman Catholic Church of Notre
Dame is a very handsome modern erection.

The Musee Rath has a collection of pictures
and sculptures once the property of the
Russian General Rath, who was of Genevese
origin. Open daily.

The Musee de VAcademie is open every
Sunday and Thursday free ; at other times
by a fee of I franc. It contains the Zoological
collections of Boissier and Necker, the Geo-
logical collections of De Saussure, who first,
after Balmat, made the ascent of Mont Blanc,
the Petrifactions of Brogniart and De Can-
dolle.

The Museum of Antiquities and Medals is
interesting.

No. 40, Grand' Rue, the same street, is the
house where Jean Jacques Rousseau was born,
although No. 27 in the Rue Rousseau bears
this inscription, " Id est ne J. y. Rousseatt,
le 28 Juin, 1712." That was the residence of
his grandfather, Jean Jacques.

The Public Library, founded by Calvin, con-
tains 70,000 volumes, some valuable manu-
scripts, sermons, and letters of John Calvin,
one of the latter addressed to Lady Jane
Grey.

No. n, Rue des Chanoines is the house
where John Calvin lived for twenty-one years.
This celebrated reformer was born at Noyoii
I in Picardy. Expelled from France for his
religious opinions, he came to Geneva as a
fugitive. Farel joined him here in his crusade
against the Church of Rome. By the power
of his oratory he obtained an irresistible in-
fluence over the citizens of Geneva. He in-
troduced the most rigorous discipline into
both church and state here a rigour which
soon degenerated into actual tyranny ; and he
ruled the Genevese with more despotism than
did their former Savoy Bishops and Dukes.
Servetus was accused before him of holding
anti-Trinitarian doctrines, and was burned at
the stake. Numerous exiles from Great
Britain made Geneva their home during the
trying reign of Queen Mary. Among the
number was the Scottish reformer, John Knox,
who was made a citizen of Geneva during;
Calvin's administration. Trace of Calvin or
Puritanism there is none at the present time.
Amusement is the order of the day.

SWITZERLAND.

The Botanical Garden, founded in the year
1806 by the celebrated De Candolle, is pretty.

Excursions in the neighbourhood of Geneva
are many and most interesting.

The Confluence of the Rhone and the Arve is
a very remarkable sight : the Rhone, rushing
with " arrowy " speed from the " blue " Lake,
is joined at a little distance from the city by
the Arve, a turbid stream from the Chamouny
Glaciers. At the point of junction it is pos-
sible to dip one hand in the warm water of
the Rhone and the other in that of the Arve
as cold as ice. The two rivers run together in
the same bed for many miles without min-
gling.

The Village of Ferney, with the chateau of
Voltaire, is between 4 and 5 miles distant, and
the best views of Mont Blanc may be had
from the road leading thither. The situation of
Ferney, which is in France, is delightful. The
community was founded by Voltaire, who
resided here for about twenty years. Many
relics of him are shown.

The Chateau of the Baron Adolphe de
Rothschild and grounds command magnifi-
cent views of Mont Blanc and the Lake. The
works of art contained in the house will well
repay a visit. Open Sunday and Thursday,
between 12 and 3 o'clock.

The Lake of Geneva and Chamouny in
connection with it form an excursion occupying
four days, viz., the first day, by early steamer,
on the Lake, stopping at various points and
visiting the Castle of Chillon ; the second day,
by railway to Martigny, and by horse through
the Tete-Noire, or by the Col de Balme to Cha-
mouny ; the third day at Chamouny, visiting the
Montanvert, the Chapeau, and the Jardin ;
and the fourth day returning to Geneva.

THE LAKE OF GENEVA.

Steamers run along the whole northern or
Swiss side in four hours, from Geneva to
Villeneuve. The Lake is 56 miles long. The
principal places of interest on the Swiss side
passed are

LAUSANNE.

From Geneva by railway in I hour, or by
steamer in 2 hours.

Lausanne has a population of 27,000. It
is the Capital of the Canton de Vaud, and is
distinguished for its good society. It is a
very attractive place of residence, and is not
expensive.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, founded about the close of
the Tenth century. It was consecrated by the
Pope Gregory X., in the presence of Rodolph
of Hapsburg. It contains some fine monu-
ments.

The Terrace of the Cathedral commands a
splendid view of the Lake and the Alps of
Savoy.

The Castle stands at a short distance from
the Cathedral. It was formerly the residence
of the Bishops of Lausanne ; it is now the
seat of the authorities of the Canton. It dates
from the Thirteenth century.

The Museum contains a collection of shell-
fish, animals, and minerals.

The Asylum for the Blind is one of the
best organized institutions in the country. It
owes its existence to the liberality of Mr.
Haldimand, a rich English philanthropist.

The Signal, i mile from the city, is
one of the finest spots for an extended view
of the northern, north-western, and southern
shores of the lake. Cooper, the American
novelist, is enthusiastic on the subject of this
view, declaring it to be " one of the grandest
landscapes of this the noblest of all earthly
regions."

Lausanne is famous as the scene of the com-
pletion of the labours of Gibbon, the great His-
torian of the " Decline and Fall of the Roman
Empire. "

OUCHY

is the port of Lausanne at which the steamers
touch. Steamers to and from Geneva several
times each day stop at the pier. Omnibuses
from Ouchy to Lausanne.

VEVEY.

From Lausanne (Ouchy) to Vevey, by rail-
way, in hour, or by steamer in I hour.

Vevey has a population of 7000, of whom a
very small proportion are Roman Catholic.
It is beautifully situated.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Chateau of M. Couureu, and its mag-
nificent garden. They are open to strangers
on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, between
the hours of 10 and 12 noon, on other
days and hours by a pour-boire of I franc.

The Church of St. Martin, erected in the
year 1498, is famous as the burial-place of
Broughton, who read to Charles I. of England
his death-warrant ; and of Ludlow, who was
one of those who condemned Charles to the
scaffold.

160 -

SWITZERLAND.

Excursions may be made to Hauteville, to
the old Castle of Blonay, and to the Pleiades,
from the summit of which last a magnificent
view may be obtained. At the foot of this
mountain are situated the sulphur-baths of the
Alliaz.

Boats for rowing, sailing on the lake, or
making more distant excursions, are numerous ;
without rowers, I franc per hour ; with one
rower, 2 francs per hour; with two rowers,
3 francs per hour.

CLARENS.

From Vevey, by railway, in 10 minutes, or by
steam in hour.

Clarens is described and immortalized by
Rousseau and Byron.

MONTREUX.

From Vevey, by railway, in hour, or by
steam in ^ hour.

The large village of Montreux is pictu-
resquely situated on a hill-side above the road
and lake. It is much frequented by lodgers
on account of the salubrity of its climate,
being the most sheltered spot on the lake, look-
ing south, and consequently a residence for
invalids during the winter. Many prefer it
even to Nice, the climate being milder and the
protection from wind better.

The pretty Cemetery overlooks the village
and lake.

CHILLON.

By railway or steam, equally, 5 minutes farther
than Montreux.

The Castle of Chillon has been immortalized
byByroninhispoem,"The Prisoner of Chillon."
Bonivard, Prior of St. Victor, endeavoured to
free the Genevese from the tyranny of Charles
V., Duke of Savoy. He became consequently
very obnoxious to that potentate, who seized
him and conveyed him to this Castle of Chillon,
where for six years he was confined in a
dungeon that is shown. The floor round the
pillar to which he was chained is worn by his
steps, and the ring to which he was attached in
the pillar is still to be seen. But in the year
1536 the cantons of Vaud and Geneva obtained
their independence, the Castle of Chillon was
captured, and its captives, including Bonivard,
were delivered.

A little further on, at Villeneuve, the Lake
comes to its end, and the steamers return.
The road and the railway continue, passing
Aigle, Bex, and Martigny, on the Route of
the Simplon see further on.
161

On the Southern or Savoy side of the Lake
of Geneva

Steamers run every two or three hours, viz.
from Geneva to Bouveret. The steamers stop
at

AMPHION.

The watering-place of Amphion has an iron
spring which has gained much celebrity. It
is much frequented by the Genevese.

EVIAN.

Evian, noted for its fine bathing establish-
ment, is situated amid groves of chestnut.

From Bouveret there is railway to Martigny,
as above stated.

CHAMOTJNY AND MONT BLANC.

From Geneva.

This district, being French, is already fully
described under the heading of " FRANCE,
SAVOY," to which refer. But the excursion
can be combined with much of Swiss terri-
tory, as follows :

THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC.

From Geneva to Chamouny by the route of

Savoy.

From Chamouny to Martigny, either by the
Col de Balme or Tete-Noire, in about nine
hours. From Martigny to the Great St. Ber-
nard, and Aosta, in sixteen hours. From
Aosta to Cormayeur, in seven hours. From
Cormayeur to Chamouny, by the Col de la
Seigne and Col du Bonhomme, in three days.
Total, seven days to make " the tour," which
is one of the grandest in the world. The
appearance of Mont Blanc from the southern
or Italian side is far more sublime than from
any other point of view. This excursion can
be varied as follows :

From Geneva to Chamouny by the route of
the Simplon.

Railway from Geneva to Vernayaz in three
hours and a quarter.

The Athenaum has well summarized this
side of the subject :

" The majority of ordinary tourists take the
diligence from Geneva to Chamouny ; by
which plan they indeed save time and toil, but
miss some very fine scenery. Wiser people
sail up the Lake of Geneva, take the rail to
Martigny, and then walk to Chamouny, either
by the Col de Balme or over the more frequented
pass of the Tete-Noire. One or other of these
courses has been travelled by the vast numbers
of tourists who have hitherto annually resorted
to the Valley of Chamouny.
162

SWITZERLAND.

" Recently, however, what is termed the
New Route, by the Pass of Salvent, has been
chosen by Pedestrians. This pass is through-
out picturesque, and in some parts superior
even to the Tete-Noire." The route begins
at Vernayaz, and finally tends in the Tete-
Noire direction, and Chamouny is reached
from the Swiss side, as from Martigny on the
Simplon.

THE SIMPLON PASS.

From Switzerland to Italy.

Railway from Geneva to Sierre in 4^ hours.
Thence diligences daily to Arona, Lago
Maggiore, in 24 hours.

The route, passing Lausanne, Vevey, Ville-
neuve, Aigle, Bex, St. Maurice, Vernayaz, to
Martigny, is already described.

MARTIGNY.

Martigny has a population of 20OO. It is
the meeting-point of the Simplon route with
those of Chamouny and the Great St. Bernard.

The localities next passed are Saxon, Sion,
Sierre, and Susten. Above the last is the
road to

THE BATHS OF LEUK.

The road to the Baths rises up high above
the Valley of the Rhone. Leuk, or Loeche,
in French, is situated on a mountain side ; a
small town, with numerous steeples, shining
crosses, and queer house-tops. At every turn
of the road the grandiose Alpine sceneiy of
the Canton Wallis, or Valais, developes itself
more and more. To the north rises the giant
rocky steep of the Gemmi ; the snow-capped
peak of the Dala Glacier, on the right, gives
birth to the mountain stream of the Dala, which
rushes along between wood-covered walls of
rock. Near the village of Albinen on the
right, a series of ladders leads up the height.
The carriage-road follows the gorge, ascending
in zig-zags, and crossing the torrent by a lofty

bridge, 420 feet above the mountain waters.
At last the Baths are reached.

The tiny chalets of Leukerbad, with heavy
stones upon the roofs, stand on an Alpine
meadow. The numerous diseases for which
the thermal waters are prescribed include
rheumatism, gout, paralysis, scrofula, chlo-
rosis, and many others. The original heat of the
thermae averages about 120 degrees Fahrenheit ;
but, as the water is let into the basins the even-
ing before, it is cooled down to the proper tem-
perature of about 95 degrees in the morning.

The mode of bathing is peculiar to Leuk.
Ladies and gentlemen, or at least men and
women, bathe in company, clad in bathing-
uniform a long dark-coloured woollen cloak,
fitting tight only round the neck. The " pa-
tients " begin by a stay of one hour in the bath,
increasing the time daily until the maximum of
eight hours, from five to ten in the morning, and
from two to five in the afternoon, is reached.
But there is no lack of amusement during
this protracted dip. On the surface of the
water reading-desks, breakfast-tables, trays for
sponges, etc., are swimming about ; whilst
flower-girls, letter-carriers, waiters, and tour-
ists go to and fro and walk out and in.

THE PASS OF THE GEMMI.

The Gemmi Pass, leading to the Lake of
Thun, rises beyond. It commands a view ex-
tending over the glaciers which take their
origin from Mont Blanc, the Savoy Alps, the
Bernese Oberland, Monte Rosa, and the
Matterhorn, the Dala Glacier, the Feuilleret
Alp, the Giiggenhubel, and a wealth of un-
rivalled mountain scenery far and wide.

The Simplon Pass continues by Viege
(where the route of Zermatt joins in), Brieg,
Simplon, and Isella, the frontier of SWITZER-
LAND, to Domo d'Ossola, Baveno on the Lago
Maggiore, Arona, and Milan, see ITALY.

163

164

BELGIUM.

Extent. Belgium is nearly 200 miles long
by 1 10 miles in breadth. It consists of nine
Provinces. It has barely 40 miles of coast.

Scenery. Not picturesque, being flat. The
sole portions of the Vesdre and Meuse Valleys
are scenic.

Climate. More favourable to health than
that of Holland, but humid compared with
France and Germany. Somewhat similar to
that of England.

The People and History. In the time of
Julius Csesar the natives of Belgium were
considered the least civilized, but most cou-
rageous, of all the Gallic nations. In stature
they surpassed the Romans, whom they
fiercely encountered. They nearly destroyed
Csesar's army of the best disciplined troops in
the world. They have always displayed a
passion for social liberty and an impatience
of control which has embroiled them with
their different rulers through successive
centuries. Invasions of Franks from the
North terminated in the French empire.
In the time of Charlemagne, A.D. 800, the
Flemings formed associations, called Guilds,
for protection against the despotism of the
Franks, and within a century after the time of
Charlemagne Flanders was covered with
corporate towns. From thence, till they
passed from under the sway of the Dukes of
Burgundy, about the middle of the Fifteenth
century, their commerce and manufactures
progressed into remarkable prosperity. Ypres
had 4000 looms, Ghent 40,000 weavers.
Bruges and Antwerp became the great marts
of the commercial world. Painting on glass,
polishing diamonds, lace, tapestry, and chimes,
were developed ; magnificent cathedrals and
town halls were built. This amazing pros-
perity experienced a rapid and fatal decline,
when, in 1477, Belgium passed under the
dynasty of Austria, "and in 1519 descended to
Charles V., King of Spain and Emperor of
Germany. Under the tyranny and bigotry of
his son, Philip II., the religious persecution
commenced by Charles V. rose to diabolical
extravagance. The country was coerced by
Spanish soldiers, and the Duke of Alva was
commissioned to abolish without mercy every
Protestant in Belgium. In less than six years

165

18,000 men and women were slain by the
sword, the gibbet, the rack, and the flames.
Dread of death in its most hideous forms
drove thousands of artisans to England, where
they introduced the manufacturing skill of
Bruges and Ghent; and the commerce and
trade of Flanders dwindled away.

In 1795 Belgium was incorporated with the
French Republic, and divided into depart-
ments.

In 1815, in the centre of Belgium, was
fought the famous battle of Waterloo. After
this the Belgian provinces were annexed to
those of Holland, to form the kingdom of the
Netherlands, which existed till the Revolu-
tion of 1830, when Belgium became an inde-
pendent nation, under its own king.

The Belgians are more French in character
and language than the Dutch, and almost
entirely Roman Catholic in their religious
profession. They differ in various respects
from their neighbours of Holland; they are
now equally distinguished by their industry,
and have a considerably higher love of art.

Population. 5,000,000, chiefly Roman
Catholics.

Manufactures. Woollen cloth forms one
of the most important branches of Belgian
industry, and it is far superior in quality to
that produced in France ; carpets, linen and
cotton cloths, lace, and silks, leather, paper,
and iron ; the " Brussels lace," the thread of
which is made of the finest flax in the country.

Outlined Tour. The Belgian towns are so
near each other that, since their connection
by railway, several of them may be seen in a
day. The Cities, etc., are described in the
order already given in our " General Conti-
nental Tour."

BRUSSELS.

Brussels, the Capital city of Belgium, has a
population of 300,000.

General Description. Lever has truly
written, " I thought Brussels, taking it for all in
all, the most beautiful town I had ever seen.
It has its defects, no doubt. The sea, a river,
mountains in the background, or a lake in
front, which give grace or grandeur to the
site of many other cities, would make it per-
166

BELGIUM.

feet. But I know no place which combines
so much of modern elegance with quaint anti-
quity, in which so many contrasts exist with-
out seeming out of keeping, and which brings
so many historical pictures to the mind's eye
from the olden times to the days we live in."

The Upper Town is naturally that to which
the stranger first directs his steps. The
palaces, the public walks, the government
offices, the beau-monde are there. Beautiful
and graceful boulevards sweep in a regular
curve, a varied landscape is seen beyond
them, brilliant masses of verdure, noble trees,
and the crowded avenues of the park, with the
fine buildings around, the regularity of some
of the streets, the picturesque disorder of
others, terraces, colonnades, and gardens, the
massive towers of the great Cathedral rising
up like the genius of the Middle Ages, and,
still higher in the skies, the spire of the Hotel
de Ville, pierced like lace-work with lucarnes
and eyelet-holes, and surmounted by the figure
of the Archangel, the city's patron saint, whose
golden wings reflect the sunbeams, and whose
flaming sword seems to cut the clouds as he

167

wheels on his pivot with every breath of wind
compose an incomparable picture.

The Lower Town is a city of other times, a
wonderful contrast to the broad extent of
modern elegance which spreads on the surface
of the elevation which looks down on, but
dares not despise it. The Upper town belongs
to the richer classes ; the Lower town, more
crowded, is the residence of the operatives,
though it still abounds in fine old picturesque
mansions which were formerly occupied by
the ancient Nobles of Brabant.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Chief Streets. In the Place de la Monnaie
are situated the Mint, the Exchange, the
Theatre, and the finest Cafes of the city. The
most frequented streets, and those in which
appear the most elegant shops, are the Mon-
tagne de la Cour, the Rue de la Madeleine,
and the Galeries St. Hubert.

The King's Palace. Of the public build-
ings that surround the Park the first in order
is the Royal Residence at the southern ex-
tremity. Its general aspect is plain and
168

BELGIUM.

unassuming. The interior is magnificently
furnished.

Palais Ducal. The Palace on the east side
of the Park was, before the Revolution of 1830,
occupied by the Prince of Orange, to whom it
was presented by the City of Brussels. It is a
beautiful building, 240 feet in length.

The House of Parliament is situated on the
north side of the Park.

The Cathedral of St. Gudule was founded in
1010. The outside was restored in 1483. Its
imposing front is flanked by two large square
towers. It has very fine stained-glass windows.
The magnificent representation of the Last
Judgment in the principal window is by Franz
Floris, a Flemish painter. The windows of
the north Chapel, the Sacrament, and the
Miracles are by Van der Weyde. The pulpit
is wonderfully carved, and represents the ex-
pulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise ; the
figures are the size of life ; the work is by
Verbruggen.

The Church of Notre Dame de la Chapelle,
in the Rue Haute, is a beautiful Gothic
structure, founded in 1 134.

The Bibliotheque and Museum. This fine
palace is divided into three departments : the
first, the Paintings ; the second, a splendid
Library of 200,000 volumes and 20,000 MSS. ;
the third, a Museum of Natural History, sur-
passing in extent and value every other in the
kingdom. These different collections are
open from 10 to 3 o'clock on Sunday, Monday,
Thursday, and fete-days, gratis. A fee of I
franc at other times.

The Astronomical Observatory is one of the
finest in Europe.

The Palace of the Due d'Aremberg contains
some fine paintings and curiosities.

The Place des Martyrs is one of the principal
squares, planted with trees, the place of sepul-
ture of those who fell in the Revolutionary strug-
gle of 1830, with a monument to their memory.

The Grande Place, in the lower town, is the
most characteristic site of the whole city.
On this Place

The Maison du Roi preserves, despite some
discrepancies of modern change in roof and
window-frames, its elegant old facade and
balcony, from which the plumed knights of
other times, with the blooming beauties of the
court, looked doM-n on the various sports of
Chivalry acted in the square below, But

The Hotel de Ville is the main and most
magnificent feature of the place. " Its com-
parative vastness draws the attention from
inferior objects, and, by a prompt transition
169

from the present to the past, the mind which
is familiar with the romance of history flies
back to the day of Philip the Good (so-called !)
the patron of this stupendous work ; then to
the time when Charles V. resigned the cares
of royalty within those very walls ; and, later
still, to that frightful epoch when the tyrant
Alva feasted his eyes from one of those same
balconies on the dying agonies of Egmont and
Horn.

The Manneken. This, the most celebrated
of all Fountains, world -renowned, is situated
near the Hotel de Ville. It is a bronze figure,
about 2 feet in height, of a Little Man who
discharges a stream of water. " Le plus
ancien bourgeois de Bruxelles" as this
famous gentleman of the Rue de 1'Etuve is
called, is a personage not only possessed of
considerable funded property, accruing from
legacies bequeathed to him by patriotic citi-
zens of Brabant, but is likewise endowed with
a rich and varied wardrobe. Ordinarily, the
unblushing little image is content to wear no
other garb than his native bronze, but on B el-
gian high-days and holidays " le plus ancien
bourgeois " appears in the most resplendent of
fancy dresses ; in particular, one costume,which
is supposed to represent the uniform of an
officer of the Gardes Francaises during the reign,
of Louis XV., assumed in commemoration
of an attempt to steal the Manneken by camp-
followers of the British army, tcmpore Wel-
lington, luckily an attempt only, for Providence
and St. Genevieve de Brabant did not desert
the Manneken, who is still in statu quo.

The Lace - Manufacture of Brussels is
famous.

EXCURSION TO WATERLOO.

This occupies a day. It is 12 miles distant.
A four-horse coach goes daily in two hours, or
it can be reached in half an hour by rail.
There are guides on the Field who speak both
French and English, and some who were in
the battle. A conical mound, 200 feet in
height, surmounted with a bronze figure of
the Belgic Lion, commemorates the events of
June 18, 1815. From the top of this mound
is the best position for surveying the Field. It
marks the spot where the Prince of Orange
was wounded, the very centre of the conflict.
On both sides of it, at the Farm of La Haye
Sainte and the Chateau of Hougoumont, the
most bloody encounters took place. The best
authorities say that Napoleon's force was
75,000 men, the Duke of Wellington's was
54,000, and of these latter only 32,000 were

170

BELGIUM.

British or German. Descriptions of the battle
are sold on the field.

THE EXCURSION TO LACKEN.

The Palace of Lacken, the frequent residence
of the king, is near Brussels. The gardens and
park are handsome.

NAMUR, MEZIERES, AND SEDAN

may be visited by rail from Brussels, as
already shown.

GHENT.

From Brussels, railway in I J hour.

Ghent has a population of 120,000. It was
the ancient Capital of Flanders. In its days
of glory, prior to the Spanish oppression, it
was populous and wealthy. At the com-
mencement of the Fifteenth century it was
distinguished as the chief seat of the cloth
manufacture of the Continent, and contained
then 40,000 weavers. The town was ruined
by the measures of Charles V. and his son
Philip II., and its revival is only of com-
paratively recent date. In 1801 the cotton
manufacture was introduced into it from
Manchester, and succeeded remarkably.

The City is divided into numerous islands,
most of which are bordered by fine quays.
Upwards of seventy bridges cross the different
canals and rivers. The streets are generally
wide, and the houses handsome, and antique.

The Manufactures, which employ about
20,000 persons, arise from bleaching, cotton-
printing, and thread factories. Lace-making,
woollen, silk, and linen manufactures are of
considerable importance. There are extensive
sugar-refineries, distilleries, breweries, and
tanneries. Oil-cloths, chemical products,
cutlery, machinery, and agricultural produce,
are also features of the trade of Ghent.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The University is fine. It contains a
Library and Cabinets of Natural History and
Comparative Anatomy.

The Cathedral of St. Bavon, founded in
941, has externally a very ordinary appear-
ance, but the interior is unrivalled by any
church in Belgium. It is entirely lined with
black, white, or variegated Italian marbles.
It has twenty-four chapels, which contain
valuable Paintings by Rubens and others.
The Brothers Van Eyck's " Adoration of the
Lamb." is one of the most celebrated pictures
in Europe. Note the carved rails and
sculptures in marble, executed in a style
of exquisite beauty. Before the grand altar in
171

the choir stand four massive silver-gilt candle
sticks, each at least 5 feet in height, which
originally belonged to St. Paul's, in London.

The Beffroi. The famous " Belfry" was
founded in 1183. Its summit is ornamented
with a copper dragon taken from the city of
Bruges, in 1445. It was formerly used as a
watch-tower, and in case of the approach of
an enemy the ringing of its bell was the
signal to assemble. The lower story is now
utilized as a prison.

The Beguinage here was once a small town
in itself, surrounded with a moat, containing
streets, squares, and promenades within its
walls, inhabited by about 600 nuns, many of
them of noble blood. The " sisters " are
bound by no particular vow, and may return
to the world whenever they please; but
there is no case on record of their having
availed themselves of this privilege. It has
recently undergone changes, but the Institu-
tion remains.

The Theatre is one of the finest in Europe
It was erected by the city at a cost of
250,0007. sterling.

The Church of St. Michel contains the
once famous picture of the " Crucifixion " by
Vandyck, now ruined by modern " restorers."

Between Ghent and Bruges the country is
thickly studded with villages, and different
small walled towns and localities celebrated
in the wars of Marlborough are passed.

BRUGES.

From Ghent, railway in I hour. From Brus-
sels, in 2\ hours.

Bruges has a population of 40,000. It is
quite distinct in character from Ghent or
Ostend. It bears marks of high antiquity,
and is exceedingly picturesque in architec-
tural forms. Its retired character unites with
its suitableness as a place of living for those
English who wish to make slender incomes
go a great way in house-keeping.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral of Notre Dame contains
some fine paintings ; but the chief objects of
attraction are the monuments of Charles the
Bold and his daughter Mary, wife of Maxi-
milian, Emperor of Austria. The effigies are
rich in gilded bronze and silver, and lie on
slabs of black marble ; the Duke decorated
with the Order of the Golden Fleece.

The Hospital of St. John contains fine
paintings by Vandyck, Hemling, and others.
One of its most precious relics is the case
which encloses the arm of St. Ursula. On

172

BELGIUM.

the side of it are painted scenes from the story
of the Saint and her virgins, massacred by
the Huns. Kugler, in his " Hand-book of
Painting," says, " These are among the very
best productions of the Flemish school."

The Belfry of Bruges, immortalized by
Longfellow, stands in the Grand Place, a
lofty Gothic belfry, considered the handsomest
in Europe. It has forty-eight bells. Some
of them weigh 6 tons. They play four times
an hour, and are consequently nearly in-
cessantly "going." Their music is acknow-
ledged to be the most complete and harmonious
in Belgium.

The Hotel de Ville contains the public
Library, and many rare manuscripts.

The Academy possesses many fine paintings
by Van Eyck, Hemling, and others.

The Church of Jerusalem is a fac-simile of
the interior of the Saviour's tomb in the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.

The Palais de Justice has in the Council
Chamber a curious chimney-piece with figures
as large as life of the Emperors Charles V.,
Maximilian, Charles the Bold, and his wife,
Margaret of York.

A Beguinage exists in Bruges similar to that
of Ghent, but inferior in extent.

OSTEND.

From London, by Dover, railway and
steamer in 7^ hours. From Bruges, railway
in \ hour. From Brussels, railway in 2
hours.

Ostend has a population of 20,000. It is
situated on the open sea. It is damp, ill-
paved, and worse drained. The streets are
built in straight lines, with a modern aspect,
the town being almost wholly constructed
anew since its destruction during the wars of
Louis XIV. The harbour is usually full of
shipping, and the daily arrivals and depart-
ures of steamers bring a concourse of tourists
to the place for the lines of railway to
Brussels and the Rhine. Ostend is the
summer Bathing-place of the Belgian Court.

There is an English Church.

British Consul, G. R. d'Arcy, Esq.

United States Consul, M. van Duclos, Esq.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Digue, an embankment 40 feet high,
constructed as a barrier against the sea, is the
fashionable promenade during the season.
There are upwards of a IOO bathing-machines
on the beach, in addition to a bathing-house
on the Digue itself.

173

ANTWERP.

From London, by steam direct, in 18 hours ;
or by the Great Eastern Railway, to Harwich,
whence steam, in 15 hours. From Ostend,
railway in 2| hours. From Brussels, railway
in | hour.

Antwerp has a population of 123,000. It
is situated on the Scheldt, and strong in a
military point of view. The city presents
generally narrow streets, lined with high
houses of sombre, antique appearance, built
according to the old Spanish taste. In niches
on the projecting angles of some of the houses
at corners of streets, are gilt figures of the
Virgin and Child, evidences that the city is
Roman Catholic. Many windows are stan-
chioned with iron bars. Many doors of
houses have small open gratings, through
which the inmates spy those who demand
admittance; thus, in olden time, protecting
themselves from violent intrusion. Antwerp
has been frequently attacked and taken pos-
session of by the Spaniards, French, English,
and Dutch, whence these and such like evi-
dences of its former state of turbulence.
Previous to the disastrous era of Philip II.
of Spain it was the greatest commercial city
in the world. From 2000 to 3000 vessels
were constantly in the Scheldt, loading and
unloading their cargoes ; 500 waggons entered
the gates daily ; and the inhabitants amounted
to 200,000 The dread persecution of Alva
drove thousands of the merchants and artisans
to England ; and when peace was finally made
with Spain, in 1679, the last blow was given
to the trade of the city in its being then
determined that the Scheldt should thence-
forth be closed to the entrance of shipping.
On this Antwerp dwindled down to the con-
dition of a poor town, known only for its
churches and pictures. Napoleon I. conceived
the plan of making this the great naval arsenal
of the north frontier of the empire, a rival of
the port of London ; and improved the place
by constructing quays, docks for shipping,
complete ship-building yards, a citadel, etc.

Antwerp is the cradle of the Flemish School
of Painting, and it is equally visited for its
treasures in this branch of the Fine Arts as
for the many scenes of Historical interest
which it presents.

There is an English Church.

British Consul, E. A. Grattan, Esq.

United States Consul, J. Weaver, Esq.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, Notre Dame, is one of the
1/4

BELGIUM.

finest specimens of Gothic architecture in Bel-
gium. Itwas commenced in 1422, and finished
in 1518, a work of 96 years. The interior is
imposing. Leading up to the enclosed choir,
containing the high altar, the side-aisles pre-
sent a series of chapels, each with its own
altar and pictorial embellishments. On either
side hang the two paintings of Rubens which
artists have made pilgrimages to for the last
200 years. The first is " The Descent from
the Cross," the masterpiece of Rubens,
familiar to the whole world, having been so
frequently [copied ; the second is the " Ele-
vation of the Cross," the body of Christ nailed
to it, and a number of figures exerting them-
selves in raising it ; the " Assumption of the
Virgin" and the "Resurrection of Christ "
are the other most famous works of Rubens
here. The spire, one of the most famous in
the world, for its lace-like tracery, is 466 feet
high.

The Museum contains a collection of paint-
ings from suppressed churches and convents,
including many of Rubens. "A journey to
Antwerp," says Sir Emerson Tennant, " is a
pilgrimage to the shrine of Rubens."

The Church of St. Jacques possesses,
immediately behind the high altar, the small
chapel which belonged to the family of Ru-
bens, and is now their mausoleum. On May
30, 1640, this great Master died. Above the
plain white marble altar is one of his most
beautiful paintings, representing the Virgin
and Infant Saviour, with the adoration of St.
Bonaventure. " This painting," says Sir
Joshua Reynolds, "is yet as bright as if the
sun shone upon it." Rubens introduced the
portraits of his two wives, his father, his
grandfather, and himself in the character of
St. George, King Charles I. having conferred
on him, when in England, the honour of
knighthood.

The Church of St. Paul is famed for its
"Calvary" a motley collection of statues,
clumsily sculptured, of Patriarchs, Prophets,
Martyrs, the Crucifixion, a model of the
Holy Sepulchre, and figures in different atti-
tudes, their faces smeared with coarse red
paint, depicting the tortures of the damned.

The Church of the Augus tines contains
paintings by Rubens, Jordaens, and Van-
dyck.

The Church of St. Andrew has an authen-
tic portrait of the ill-fated Mary Queen of
Scots, and famous carved wooden pulpit by

175

Verbruggen, representing the Miraculous
Draught of Fishes.

The Hotel de Ville has some fine modern
Historic frescoes.

The Zoological Gardens are well arranged
and full.

From Antwerp to Rotterdam, railway in four
hours. See under the heading of" HOLLAND."

From Antwerp to Cologne and the Rhine, by
Malines, Liege, Venders, and Aix-la-Chapelle,
is as follows, rail throughout to Cologne, in
six hours.

MALINES.

From Antwerp, railway in \ hour.

Malines, or Mechlin, has a population of
37,000. The celebrated "Mechlin Lace" is
manufactured here.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, St. Rumbold, a fine Gothic.
Its pulpit of carved wood represents the con-
version of St. Paul. On the left is a master-
piece of Vandyck, the " Crucifixion," Christ
hanging between the two thieves.

The Church of St. John possesses several
of Rubens' best paintings, notably the "Adora-
tion of the Magi."

The Church of Notre Dame contains
Rubens' " Miraculous Draught of Fishes."

LOTJVAIN.

Louvain has a population of 32,000. Its
principal manufacture is Beer. It is a quiet
and orderly-looking city.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Hotel de Ville, one of the finest extant
samples of civil Gothic architecture.

The Church of St. Peter has some fine

paintings.

LIEGE.

Liege has a population of 110,000. Its
iron-works are on the most extended scale.
The scene is lighted by furnaces in all direc-
tions for many miles.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Palais de Justice, Gothic, of the
Fifteenth century.

The Church of St. Jacques, a magnificently
decorated structure of the Sixteenth century.

THE VALLEY OF THE MEUSE

extends from Liege to Namur.
176

BELGIUM

NAMUR.

Namur has a population of 27,000. It
manufactures cutlery.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Citadel, one of the strongest in Bel-
gium.

The Cathedral, Corinthian order.

THE VALLEY OF THE VESDRE

extends from Liege to Verviers. It is highly
picturesque. It passes Pepinsterre station,
whence there is a branch-rail to

SPA.

Spa has a population of 6000. Its springs
attract about 10,000 visitors annually on the
average.

VERVIERS.

Verviers has a population of 33,000. It
manufactures cloth. It is the frontier town
of Belgium.

The rest of the route passes Aix-la-Chapelle
to Cologne, which see under the heading of
"THE GERMAN EMPIRE."

HOLLAND.

Extent. Holland is 200 miles long by 120 j
miles in breadth. The coast edges its entire
length. The Rhine and the Meuse, here
called Maas, discharge into the sea. It is
subdivided into eleven Provinces.

Population. 4,000,000, two-thirds Protes-
tant.

Scenery. Not picturesque. Entirely flat.

Climate. Damp, foggy, cold, but not un-
healthy.

Manufactures. Spirits, linen, pottery, ship-
building, fishing, diamond-cutting, are features
of Dutch industry. Butter is sent to England
at the rate of 30,000,000 Ibs. per annum.

Revenue. 9,ooo,ooo/.

Government. Limited monarchy.

Army. 60,000 at home; 30,000 in the
East.

Colonies. Java, the Moluccas, Borneo,
parts of the East Indies, and Guiana, South
America.

Points of Special Note in Holland.

The Higher Classes. In the suburbs of the
towns, and in the country, the villas of the
wealthy retired Dutch are noticeable. They
are built of brick, plastered and painted to
look as trim as if just taken out of a band-box ;
close-shaven lawn in front ; narrow ditch sepa-
rating from the public thoroughfare; little
bridge across the ditch ; imposing wooden
gateway ; clusters of dahliahs and shrubbery ;
and, above all, the ever-fresh-painted summer-
house, commanding a view of all that passes
on canal and road. Leisure and comfort here
attend the evening of a life spent in successful
industry. Such a house is very significantly
styled a "Lust," or Pleasure-house. And a
particular motto superadds sentiment to the
whole.

The Humbler Classes. The wearing of
costly ornaments by the Women is very notice,
able. The woman's first consideration, after
procuring the simplest attire, is the saving of
money to purchase gold necklace, earrings,
and other trinkets. Many female domestic
servants may be seen with 2O/. worth, or more,
of jewellery on their persons. These invest-
ments constitute their dowry, and, if need be,
in the event of marriage, are devoted to the
179

acquisition of necessary articles for the house-
hold ; they are also viewed as providing for
the expenses of interment in a respectable
manner, should no other fund exist for that
purpose. An unmarried Dutch woman in
humble life who cannot make a good show of
jewellery is considered to be thriftless, and
has, accordingly, little chance of receiving the
addresses of a suitor.

Crime. Serious crime, such as murder,
house-breaking, robbery, is exceedingly rare.
Although the towns are crowded with strangers
during the fairs, and there are then plenty of
valuable goods most unprotected in the streets,
offences requiring judicial correction of any
kind are limited in number. The system of
police registration of houses and persons may
be said to establish a universal knowledge of
everybody's business and disposition.

Pauperism. From the general industry of
the people, and from the strictness of police
regulations, few beggars exist in Holland.
Rags and wretchedness rarely meet the eye.
The necessitous poor are supported by voluntary
contributions collected from the churches and
elsewhere.

Education. The law is remarkably com-
plete as regards the universal establishment of
schools, the appointment of teachers, and the
course of education. The great object kept in
view is the education in simple branches of
secular knowledge of every child in the king-
dom ; and this appears to be accomplished in
a manner most satisfactory to all classes of
the people. There are not many schools of a
high rank. The better class of schools are
conducted by^ respectable private teachers at
their own risk ; and their attention is generally
confined to a limited number of pupils. Next
in order are the intermediate schools, at
which the children of tradesmen and others
above the condition of the poor are taught
on payment of small fees. The lowest are the
Armen, or Poor-schools, at which all the
scholars are taught gratuitously. The poor
are not allowed any relief from public funds,
unless they send their children to the Armen-
schools ; and this forms a perfectly sufficient
inducement. Hence all are educated : every
180

HOLLAND.

one goes to school at some time ; and there-
fore there is none without education. The
most remarkable peculiarity in this system of
National Education is the separation of
Religious from Secular instruction. It is im-
perative "that the scholars be not left with-
out instruction in the creed of the religious
community to which they belong ; but tha t
this part of the instruction shall not be exacted
from the schoolmaster." As the children be-
long to different religious bodies, they attend
their respective clergymen on stated occasions
for their special religious instruction.

The Kermesses. The annual fairs are so
called. They are local saturnalia involving a
great deal of amusement. In the principal
streets, beneath the wide-spreading trees
which line the canals,temporary wooden booths
are erected, a display made of all kinds of fancy
goods, odd costumes of dealers and visitors
from distant places strike the eye, and drink-
ing, dancing, and singing engage the popular
mind.

Locomotion. Railways, the Ijzeren Spoor-
u<eg, now traverse Holland thoroughly. Cabs,
omnibuses, and trams, abound in the towns.
Treckschuyten, or canal-boats, afford a means
of conveyance most common to the common
classes. One may travel by them in almost
every direction, and at an exceedingly small
cost. They are fitted up with a neat cabin
and steerage, like canal-boats in England,
and are usually drawn by one or two horses.
The horses draw by rope from the top of the
mast, instead of from the bows of the vessel.
This arrangement prevents the friction of the
rope on the banks or in the water, and the
mast is lowered at every bridge under which
the boat passes in its course.

Outlined Tour.^-The chief cities, Rotter-
dam, Delft, the Hague, Leyden, Haar-
lem, Amsterdam, Utrecht, are connected, by
rail, and can be passed in a single day. They
are described in this order, as already given in
our " General Continental Tour."

ROTTERDAM.

From Antwerp (Belgium), by railway, 4 hours ;
From London, by steam direct, in 24 hours ;
or by Great Eastern Railway to Harwich,
railway and steam, in 15 hours.

Rotterdam has a population of 126,000,
about two-thirds Protestant, one-third Roman
Catholic, and a few thousand Jews. Like all
other cities of Holland it is built on piles
driven into the oozy mud, and intersected by

181

numberless canals. English Church-services,
Scottish, and Presbyterian, are established
here.

British and American Consuls reside.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, St. Lawrence, a brick
structure. Famous Organ, of 4762 pipes.

The House of Erasmus, who was born here.
Statue erected to him in the Market Place.

The Museum, Schielands Landshuis, a
good collection of Paintings of the Dutch
School.

DELFT.

From Rotterdam, by railway, in i an hour.

Delft has a population of 20,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Old Church. Here Van Tromp was
buried.

The Prinssenhof. Here William of Orange
was assassinated.

THE HAGUE.

From Delft, by railway, in of an hour.

The Hague, called by the Dutch Graven-
hage, by the French La Haye, has a popula-
tion of 96,000. It exhibits the usual features
of a Dutch town, brick houses and pave-
ments, canals threading the streets, and rows
of leafy trees shading the houses from the sun.
Its general appearance, however, is much
superior to that of the commercial towns. It
is the seat of the Court and Government, and
has therefore many of the peculiarities of a
Capital, a lightness, which other Dutch
towns want, houses lofty and aristocratic, and
beautiful and magnificent avenues of trees
environing.

Ministers accredited by Great Britain, the
United States, etc., reside here.

There is an English Church.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Open Squares.

The Vij-verberg is ornamented with a lake
in the centre, and a small island decorated with
shrubs. Close to this pretty sheet of water are
the chief palatial structures which attract the
attention of strangers,

The Royal Museztm is an elegant building
of the Seventeenth century, originally the
Palace of Prince Maurice. It is now the
National repertory of Paintings in the upper
story, and of objects of Antiquity and
Curiosity in the lower. The Picture-gallery,
of large extent, is open to the public free,
except on Sunday. It would be hopeless to

182

HOLLAND.

attempt to convey within the limited compass
of these pages any correct idea of this invalu-
able collection. The principal pictures are
those of Rembrandt, Rubens, Vandyck, Paul
Potter, Wouvermans, Teniers, and Berghem.
There are paintings also by Vernet, Murillo, etc.
The grand attraction is Paul Potter's " Bull,"
a picture which occupies nearly the whole end
of one of the rooms. A person with no
critical skill whatever will, nevertheless, at
once recognize its fidelity to nature. It was
carried off to Paris by the First Napoleon,
and hung in the Louvre ; but was afterwards
restored to the Dutch. Note also Rem-
brandt's "Dissectors." The Museum of
Curiosities in the lower rooms is also of great
extent and value. There is an incomparable
collection of articles from China and Japan.

The Palace of the King is in the Grecian
style. It consists of a centre and two wings,
forming a fa^-ade on three sides of a square.

The Binnenhof v*> a remarkable relic of the
past. Mediaeval in appearance. Ancient and
modern buildings most pictorially grouped
together. Here Barneveldt was executed.
And here the Parliament now assembles.

The Buitenhof\s> another civic curiosity where
the De Witts were confined and murdered.

The House in the Wood, royal residence, is
four miles distant.

SCHEVENINGEN.

Scheveningen is a small watering-place
much resorted to by the inhabitants of the
Hague, and celebrated for its industry in fish-
ing. It is on the sea. It can be reached in
half-an-hour by tram-car, or by carriage, or
omnibus.

LEYDEN.

From the Hague, by railway, in \ an hour.

Leyden has a population of 37,000. It is
famous for its resistance to the Spaniards in

1573-

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The University is the first in Holland.

The Museum possesses the first European
collection of Natural History and Anatomy.

Oudheden Museum of Egyptian antiquities.

Siebolcfs Museum of Japanese curiosities.

The Botanic Garden, vast and scientific.

The country round Leyden is the most fer-
tile in lower Holland. It is called the Garden
of the Rhine-land. The name " Leyden" is
derived from the small river Leyde, which
here unites with the Rhine, and forms its
havens and " cingel."

183

From Leyden to Haarlem the railway runs
through a country once the Haarlemmer-See,
a sheet of water which has been drained with
great skill, and at great expense.

HAARLEM.

From Leyden, by railway, in ^ of an hour.

Haarlem has a population of 30,000. It is
celebrated for the siege it sustained from the
Spaniards in 1573.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Coster's house. One of the first printers.

The Church of St. Savon is bare and cheer-
less. Its organ is stupendous; it rests on
white and black marble pillars ; it has 5000
pipes, some 15 inches in diameter, and 32 feet
in length.

The Tulip-Gardens, famous in history, lie
south of the town, the Bloemen-Tuinen, as
they are called. Each garden is secluded
from the public road by a high wall, and
stretches away to frequently a quarter of a
mile by a breadth of a hundred yards. The
drying-houses have shelves, on which spread
myriads of roots. Men are kept constantly
j busy packing for exportation. In the process
each root is first twisted into a small piece of
paper, then a hundred are put together in a
paper-bag, then the bags are laid in cases,
and are thus sent to all parts of the world.
The house of Krelage has exported annually
100,000 hyacinths, 300,000 crocuses, 200,000
tulips, and 100,000 ranunculuses, besides
many roots of other flowers. About 200 years
ago the roots of Tulips became objects of such
general interest that a single root of some
peculiar sort cost a small fortune. The greater
part of those now cultivated and sold by the
Bloemists of Haarlem range from a penny to
twenty-pence each.

AMSTERDAM.
From Haarlem, by railway, in an hour.

Amsterdam has a population of 286,000, of
whom about 196,000 are Protestant, 60,000 Ro-
manCatholic,and 30,000 Jews. It is the chief city
of Holland. It stands on the southern bank of
the Y. The quays and piers rise sheer out of
the water. Its figure is a semi-circle, extending
two or three miles inland. The river Amstel,
from which the city is named, intersects it,
and fills the havens in the streets. The "cin-
gel," or outer belt of water, zig-zags round the
sites of ancient bastions, which now form
pleasant promenades. It is scarcely possible
on paper to convey any fair idea of the maz.-
of land and water in this bewildering human
184

HOLLAND.

hive. The houses are of brick, and rise to
heights of four and five stories, with fantastic
pointed gables in front. Many are of elegant
exteriors, with interiors splendidly decorated,
suitable residences of wealthy merchants.
The chief Manufactures are dye-stuffs, cotton
and silk fabrics, liquors, refined sugar, leather,
cordage, and cut-diamonds.

Consuls for Great Britain and for the United
States of America reside here.

English Church-services, English Presby-
terian, and Scotch Presbyterian, are regularly
celebrated.

Theatres. There are several open from May
to September.

The Kermesse begins on the second Monday
in September, and lasts a fortnight.

Concerts are given in the Crystal Palace
and in the Park.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Palace. The outside is imposing. Built
on 13,700 piles.

The Oude Kerb, or Old Church. Its
stained-glass windows of the Fifteenth cen-
tury are famous.

The New Church has a fine carved pulpit,
and monuments to the brave Van Speyk and
De Ruyter.

The Stadt Huis, or Town-hall.

The Oude-Mannen Huis possesses a gallery
of fine Paintings of the Dutch School, open
from 10 to 4 o'clock.

Rijk's Museum, in the Trippenhuis, has the
famous Paintings of Van der Heist's "City-
guard," and " Commemoration of the Peace of
Munster ; " Rembrandt's " Syndics," and
" The Night-watch ; " Nicolas Maas's " Re-
veuse ;" and Gerard Dow's "Night School,"
and "Dutch interior."

The Diamond- cutting Manufacture. This
branch of lapidaries is peculiar to Amster-

dam. There are five leading establishments, j
besides many smaller, employing large num-
bers of the Jews. The Koh-i-noor was cut here.
The Provident Asylums, for the comfortable
maintenance of aged men and women, who
are admitted on payment of a comparatively
small sum, are very noticeable.

BROEK.

Broek, at an hours' distance from Amsterdam,
is visited by all tourists. It is a town of

8000 inhabitants, chiefly well-to-do retired
merchants. The houses are preserved in a
state of the most fastidious cleanliness, and
look as if just come from under the brush of
the painter. Walls, chimneys, window-boards,
palings, flourish in green, yellow, and white
paint ; and in places even the trees are
painted as high as the branches. But most
famous are the dairies, consisting of a house
of great length and breadth. The stalls for
the cows run along one side of the building,
another side is devoted to the churning,
salting, cheese-pressing, etc. ; and the re-
mainder of the interior forms the dwelling of
dairyman and family. The floor of the cow-
house is paved with brick, is scrubbed and
washed daily, and so an air of exceeding
freshness and purity is imparted to the whole
vaccine establishment .

ZAANDAM,

the work-shop of Peter the Great, when
learning the trade of shipwright, may be
reached in an hour from Amsterdam.

UTRECHT.

From Amsterdam, by railway, in I hour.

Utrecht has a population of 65,000. It is
situate on the Rhine.

The Principal Object of Interest is
The Cathedral, partly damaged by age and
civil war, but still great in its decay. It has
six bells of enormous size. Each is called
after some saint, with whose name it was
baptized previous to its elevation. The
largest of them, St. Salvador, is several tons
weight. From the tower, at a height of
350 feet, a view of inconceivable extent meets
the eye ; in no other part of the world, it is
said, is so great an extent of territory to be
taken in at one view. It commands the
whole of Holland very distinctly, and much
more ; nothing can equal the clear impression
it affords of the peculiarities of HOLLAND.

THE RHINE,

as approached by Diisseldorf and Aix-la-
Chapelle, both connected with Holland by rail,
is continued in the following section under
" THE GERMAN EMPIRE."

1 86

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Politically. The German Empire now con-
sists of twenty-six States, Prussia being the
head, the King of Prussia the Emperor, with
a Federal Council, and a Parliament.

Territorially. Prussia's greatest length is
800 miles, its breadth is nearly 500. The
rest of Germany's greatest length is nearly
600 miles, its breadth is 550.

Geologically. Northern Germany is gene-
rally plain. Central and Southern Germany
are hilly.

The Motmtains. The highest is the
Schnee-Koppe, 5000 feet, theRiesen-gebirge,
the Erz-gebirge, the Hartz, and the hills of
the Black Forest and of the Rhine.

Rivers, The principal are the Rhine,
Danube, Oder, Elbe, Weser, Vistula, Moselle,
Main.

Climate. Cold in the north; temperate
in the centre ; warm in the south ; and gene-
rally healthy.

Manufactures. Linen, cotton, woollen,
leather, glass, hardware, beer, metal-smelting,
and clock-making.

Population. Of Prussia, 25,000,000. Of
the rest of Germany, 41,000,000.

Education. Germany has been called " the
Fatherland of Thought." It possesses the
most complete system of National Education.
School-attendance is compulsory. Univer-
sities are numerous, amongst the chief being
those of Berlin, Konigsberg, Halle, Breslau,
Gottingen, Bonn, Heidelberg, Leipzig, and
Munich.

Science and Art. The great names of
Niebuhr in history, Kepler and Herschel in
astronomy, Handel, Haydn, Mozart, Men-
delssohn, Beethoven, Wagner in music,
Goethe, Schiller in poetry, and a host of
painters and sculptors, are German.

Brief Historical Notice. The interest per-
taining to German history may be taken to
date from about the year 80 B.C., or co-eval
with the First Campaign of Julius Caisar. In
the reign of Trajan, the appellation of Goths
and Vandals embraced the people of Germany ;
the former being established during the
month of the Vistula, in the fertile provinces
where the commercial cities of Thorn, Elburg,
187

Konigsberg, and Dantzic were long after-
wards founded ; while the more numerous
tribes of the latter extended to the westward ;
but a striking similarity of manners, com-
plexion, religion, and language clearly indicate
that they were originally one great nation. In
the age of the Antonines the Goths were still
seated in Prussia ; and in the reign of
Alexander Severus the Roman province of
Dacia began to experience their proximity by
frequent and destructive inroads. About the
year A.D. 240 the inhabitants of the Lower-
Rhine and the Weser formed a confederacy,
under the title of Franks or Freemen. This
I union was gradually cemented by habit and
experience. The Franks were no sooner
I aware of their combined strength, than they
! entered upon foreign conquest. They en-
I croached upon the provinces of Gaul, and,
though often repulsed, were at last able to
take and to retain possession of these, and
their leaders laid the foundation of the French
monarchy. Similar confederacies were formed,
and other conquests made, by various tribes
of the German nation. Their names have
been perpetuated in the countries which they
subdued, and their descendants have reigned
as sovereigns in almost every state in Europe.
They were a warlike people, without either
cities, letters, arts, or money. They carried
with them what they most valued their arms,
their cattle, and their women. Among some
an hereditary monarchy was established ; but
the greater number obeyed a leader of their
own choice.

Many of the German tribes, from numbers
and improved state of military discipline,
became formidable rivals of their Roman
invaders. Varus, with the best troops of
Augustus, was defeated near Pyrmont by
Arminius about the beginning of the first
century, A.D. 9 : and when, in process of
time, the Germans had learned the more per-
fect use of arms, and when accident had
convinced them of the power of union, they
savagely ravaged Italy and the- South ; they
marched boldly to attack Imperial Rome
itself ; and Attila the Hun was able to dictate
terms there to the Mistress of the World.
1 88

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

A long period of darkness ensued between
the Fifth and Ninth century, rarely illumined by
the light of historical truth.

The French Kingdom, founded by Phara-
mond and Merovceus, the leaders of the Franks,
the first of the Kings in the newly -acquired
provinces of Gaul, began about the years
400 450. Pepin, the son of Charles Martel,
the master of the palace to Childeric III.,
was crowned King of France in the year 751 ;
and his son Charles, animated by conquest
and zeal for religion, over-ran the greater part
of Germany, and compelled its Pagan inhabi-
tants to embrace Christianity on peril of
death.

The Holy Roman Empire consisted of the
head of the State, the Emperor, and three
Political Bodies the college of Electors, the
college of Princes, and the college of the
Free Imperial Cities. The Emperor was
elected ; he had all the privileges that belonged
to the sovereign authority ; yet he was not
considered above the law, as the same body
that elected him to the throne had the power,
or occasionally assumed the right, of deposing
him from it. The college of electors was that
body in which the privilege of electing the
Head of the State vested. This privilege, in
early times, belonged to every Prince of the
Empire ; but, in process of time it became
narrowed to the Archbishops of Mayence, of
Cologne, and of Treves, the King of Bohemia,
the Count-Palatine of the Rhine, the Duke of
Saxony, and the Margrave of Brandenburg.
An eighth electorate was created for the
Duke of Bavaria in the year 1648; and in
1692, Hanover and Liineburg were made a
ninth. All the civil and military affairs of the
Empire were regulated in what were called
general- diets, over which the Emperor, when
present, presided. Every Prince, though
nominally a subject of the Empire, was vir-
tually and absolutely a Sovereign in his own
dominions ; could enter into foreign and
domestic alliances ; and when an Imperial war
declared, might remain neuter if the safety of

the Empire was not at stake. When the
First Napoleon put an end to the German
Constitution in the year 1806, this feudal
compact was broken ; the larger States
became subsequently independent kingdoms ;
and a number of the minor principalities
were deprived of their right of sovereignty,
and became mediatized. Austria assumed the
chief influence till the year 1866, when utterly
defeated in the field by Prussia, in which latter
is now revived the ancient GERMAN EMPIRE.

German Life at the Watering-places.
These are strongly attractive to the Tourist,
especially the English and the American. A
brief notice of them is essential, once for all.
One day at them is like every other. The
world rises at five o'clock in the morning; the
band begins to play at six ; the idle and the
ill proceed to the Trinkhalle, where the
Spring is, under whose cover visitors walk in
all weathers. The scene at "the spring"
from six o'clock to eight a.m. baffles descrip-
tion and must be seen to be understood.
What is called the Kursaal consists commonly
of a great building, beautiful gardens, and
park, adorned by cascades, illuminated at
night, and then looking magical. On the
sides of the square or alleys leading to the
Kursaal are wide colonnades for exercise
during wet weather, and shops something in
the style of the Palais-Royal at Paris. The
interior of the Kursaal is elegant, with ball-
rooms, conversation-rooms, reading-rooms
where newspapers of all countries lie on the
tables for the visitors' use, and even eating-
rooms for pabulum to the body.

Outlined Tours. Rhenish Germany, the
Rhine, Central, Northern and Southern Ger-
many, though a vast extent of territory, can
easily be visited en route to Switzerland, Italy,
Austro-Hungary, and the East, by following
this order, as laid down in the scheme of our
General Continental Tour, to which refer.

The order of description is as follows :

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

RHENISH GERMANY.

Route continued from the sections " Belgium "
and " Holland.''

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

From Brussels, by railway, in 4 hours. From
London, in 14 hours.

Aix-la-Chapelle, in German Aachen, has
a population of 76,000. It is Prussian. Its
Manufacture is cloth. Charlemagne was born
here, beautified the place, and died, and was
buried here. For the invalid, it has mineral
fountains ; for the devotee, it has relics ; for
the tourist, it has bands, concerts, balls, and
antiquities.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Dom, or Cathedral, eminently ancient,
A.D. 800. It contains the vault of Charlemagne,
the Chandelier presented by the Emperor
Frederic Barbarossa, the stone on which the
Emperors of Germany were crowned, and a
gorgeous shrine with numerous relics.

The Town-Hall, antique, restored, contains
historical frescoes of high order, modern.

The New Government -Building preserves
the Aerolite which is alleged to be of 7,000
pounds weight.

The Springs, hot, sulphurous, of 130 deg.
Fahrenheit, are famous.

There is an English Church here.

An American Consul resides.

DTJSSELDORF.

From Aix-la-Chapelle, by railway, in 2 \ hours.

From Utrecht, by railway, in 5 hours.
From Cologne, by railway, in f of an hour.

Diisseldorf has a population of 80,000. Its
appearance is that of a provincial capital. The
streets are spacious, and lined with rows of
trees, giving an agreeable effect. In former
times the city was walled for defence ; but
the fortifications have been removed, and their
place is now laid out with charming walks.
It is on the Rhine.

A British Consul -General is resident.

English Church-service is regularly cele-
brated.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Bronze-statue to the Elector jfohann
191

Wilhelm, by whom the city was improved,
stands in the Markt-platz.

The Gallery of Paintings of the modern
German school, whose seat has been this city,
is worthy of a visit.

The Tourist now reaches the most famous
portion of the Rhine.

THE RHINE.

The Rhine comes down from remote anti-
quity, associated in every age with the most
momentous events in the histories of neigh-
bouring nations. It is a river which presents
historic recollections of Roman conquests and
defeats, of Chivalric exploits in the feudal
periods, of wars and negotiations of modern
times. It was the witness of the Coronations
of Emperors, whose bones repose by its side.
On its borders stand the two grandest monu-
ments of the noble Architecture of the Middle-
ages. Its banks present every variety of the
picturesque ; wild rocks ; thick forests ; fertile
plains ; vineyards sometimes gently sloping,
sometimes perched among lofty crags, where
Industry has won a domain amidst the fast-
nesses of nature ; beautiful and romantic
roads ; salutary mineral springs ; populous
cities ; flourishing towns ; castles and ruins,
with which a thousand legends are connected.
It has a course of 900 miles, affords 630 miles
of uninterrupted navigation from Bale to the
sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks
to exchange with each other and with the
world the rich and varied products of its shores.
Its cities, famous for commerce, science, and
works of strength which furnish protection
to Germany, are also famous as the seats of
Roman colonies, and of Ecclesiastical Councils,
and are associated with many of the most
important events in the history of mankind.

The Rhine originates in three small streams
in the Swiss canton of the Grisons. Of these
streams one is called the Vorder-Rhein,
another the Mittel-Rhein, and the third the
Hinter-Rhein ; this last being united to the
others at Reichenau. Leaving Reichenau,

192

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

the Rhine flows along a valley about
50 miles in length, passes Coire, and proceeds
in a northerly direction till it expands into a
lake, 44 miles long and 9 miles wide at its
broadest part. Anciently this fine lake was
styled by the Romans " Lacus Brigantinus ; "
by the modern Germans it is called the Boden-
See ; by French and English it is known as
the Lake of Constance, from the old city of
Constance which is placed at its outlet. This
Lake is environed by five different states
namely, Baden, "Wiirttemberg, Bavaria,
Austria, and Switzerland. Flowing from this
lake, the Rhine passes through Wiirttemberg ;
then between Switzerland and Baden ; then
between Baden and Alsace ; and afterwards
touches on or goes through Rhenish Bavaria,
Darmstadt, Nassau, Rhenish Prussia, Bel-
gium, and Holland. From its rise to the
ocean, it flows altogether 950 miles, carrying
to the sea the drainage of nearly 80,000
square miles. It is the fourth of European
rivers, being inferior only to the Volga,
Danube, and Dnieper.

The Rhine is usually divided into three
sections the Upper, Middle, and Lower
Rhine all differing considerably in character.
The Upper Rhine, from Reichenau to Bale,
has a length of 300 miles, in which distance
it falls 2,750 feet. At Bale the river is there-
fore only 860 feet above the level of the sea.
From this point to Cologne, in which is com-
prehended the Middle Rhine, a distance of
350 miles, the river falls 750 feet ; but the
principal part of this fall is above Mayence ;
from which place to Cologne the descent is
only 164 feet. At Cologne, where the Lower
Rhine begins, the river is no more than no
feet above the sea-level. The descent, dis-
persed over 300 miles, gives a generally steady
current.

From Bale downwards, the aspect of the
Rhine is grand and imposing; its waters
placid, yet forcible ; its breadth varying from
500 to 1500 feet ; its depth from 10 to 20 feet ;
and there are spots in which the waters run
with obvious impetuosity.

Steamers ply daily in numbers between
Cologne and Mayence. There are probably
altogether two-hundred steamers on the river
of one kind or other, and an incalculable num-
ber of vessels of all sorts, towed upwards
against the stream, or dropping down with
the current. The introduction of Steam may
be said to have given a new aspect to the
general traffic, and to have opened the Rhine
to tourists.

103

Rafts, great floats of timber, that wind their
way downwards in the middle of the stream,,
under the guidance of large numbers of men,
are very noticeable. The timber consists of
long squared logs of pine, the produce of the
mountain-forests on the upper part of the
Rhine and of its tributaries, more particularly
the Neckar and the Main. The logs are
placed together, layer crossed upon layer to
a depth of about 6 feet, the whole strongly
bound together with chains. When complete,
the rafts extend to a length of 500 feet, by a
breadth of 250 feet on an average; some
larger, some smaller. A raft of the ordinary
size is guided by about 200 rowers, who tug-
in groups with large oars at the front and the
rear of the raft. The " captain " occupies an
elevated position, giving his orders ; and pilots-
assist in pointing out the best channels.
Standing on the deck of a steamer, as it
pursues its way amidst picturesque scenery,
the tourist is amused on coming in sight of
one of these great floating islands of timber ;
it looks like a village moving on the bosom of
the waters. The rafts are floated down to
Dort, in Holland ; and there the materials are
exported to England and other countries. An
idea of the size and value of such rafts may be
gathered from the fact that a single one will
sometimes sell for as much as 2c,ooo

The colour of the Rhine, as contrasted with
the Rhone, excites much curiosity and ques-
tion. The two rivers, flowing over a similar
soil, differ entirely in colour. The Rhine has
a delicate pea-green tint, while the Rhone
has a beautiful dark blue. Their waters in a
glass appear equally pure and colourless ; but
when viewed in the mass, they are found to
be charged with the respective colours that
have been mentioned. Various philosophic
speculations on this strange diversity of
colour in these two great neighbouring rivers
are afloat, but no conclusion can yet be
affirmed.

Brief Historical Notice. Under the
Romans, various important points on the left
(west) bank of the Rhine were fortified, in
order to guard the stream and prevent the
incursions of the German tribes. But these
latter still occasionally came across in boats,
and slaughtered the Roman settlers. Hence,
Julius Caesar, at length found it necessary to
terrify the heroic intruders. He crossed the
Rhine with a powerful army, and the occupa-
tion of the Romans was an era of great
splendour. This was succeeded by ages of
barbarian turbulence. The craggy peaks on
194

THE GERMAN EMPIRE,

both banks of the Rhine became the sites of
castles of feudal chiefs, with bands of retainers,
who waged constant wars with each other, and
laid the passing stranger under heavy black-
mail. At length, a time came when such
perverted powers could no longer be tolerated.
A confederacy of traders and merchants,
known in history as the League of the Free
Communities of the Hanse-Towns, about the
year 1,200, proclaimed war against the
Robbers of the Rhine. The various feudal
strongholds were then attacked and destroyed,
and the system of tolls and rapine extinguished.
These, however, had called into creation on
the Rhine and its tributaries certain great
Ecclesiastical Cities, which alone enjoyed
security under their magnificent prince-
bishops from the Feudal Chiefs and their
successors. Mayence, Cologne, Treves and
Aix-la-Chapelle were the principal of these
singular communities. These also, in the
course of ages, lost their ancient privileges ;
the wars of the French Revolution of 1789
changed their fortune, and consigned them to
one or other of the modern European
sovereignties. At the present moment
Prussia (now Germany) possesses the largest
share of the Rhine.

88?%.

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THE TOUR OF THE RHINE

properly begins at Cologne. Below that city,
the scenery on the banks of the river is not
picturesque. The interesting portion of the
Rhine-scenery actually commences at the
Drachenfels, and extends only to Mayence,
about 90 miles of land, but upwards of 100
in following the windings of the river.
About half way up this lengthened tract,
stands Coblenz, which is the limit of one easy
day's journey by steam from Cologne; and from
Coblenz to Mayence is the extent of a second
day. Our description, therefore, refers princi-
pally to this middle portion of the Rhine,
following it upwards by steam.

COLOGNE.

From Aix-la-Chapelle, by railway, in ij

hours. From London, in 16 hours.
Cologne, or in German Koln or Coeln,
is the great starting-point of Rhine-tourists.
It can now be reached with ease, and at a
small expense, by railway from Ostend, Calais,
Antwerp ; the time occupied from London by
Ostend being sixteen hours, by Calais seven-
teen hours, by Antwerp eighteen hours. At
Cologne, the traveller generally gets his first
glance of the Rhine, and is struck with its
great breadth, which is here about one-third
of a mile. He sees the river rolling majesti-
cally, numerous steam-boats and other vessels
plying at the quay, a long bridge of boats
communicating with the east bank, on which
stands the suburb of Deutz, and a magnificent
railway bridge also crossing the stream and
beginning a long line of railways, communi-
cating with all the countries of Germany from
the Baltic to the Adriatic.

Cologne has a population of 130,000. It is
strongly fortified, with gateways and draw-
bridges. Within the walls, the streets, lined
with tall, dark buildings of stone, are narrow
and confused. The gutters and sewers send
forth a variety of indescribable odours. So
had was the olden reputation of the town in
this respect, that it became and is even still
the object of numerous satirical jokes, in
which the famous "Eau" frequently plays a
prominent part. However, the city latterr?
has been subjected to reformatory measures.
It is now daily swept and cleaned; narrow
foot-pavements have been laid down ; and the
streets, shops, and hotels are lighted with
gas. The houses have an antique appearance,
with pointed gables. The Churches are
numerous, and afford fine specimens of Medi-
aeval Architecture.

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Cologne owes its origin to the Romans, by
whom it was called "Colonia Agrippina," in
honour of the wife of the Em'peror Claudius.
Afterwards, as a free City of the Germanic
Empire, under its Archbishops, it rose to great
Ecclesiastical renown.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Dom, or Cathedral. This structure,
one of the finest specimens of Pointed archi-
tecture, was begun in the Thirteenth century.
The coloured-glass windows, embodying a fine
series of Scripture subjects, are modern, a gift
from the King of Bavaria. Its Shrine of the
Three Kings, as they are called, is alleged to
contain the actual relics of the three Wise
men, or Kings (which terms are convertible,
it is presumable, at least, in this case), who
came from the East to worship the infant
Jesus ; it is situated in the choir. It presents
a small temple of marble, having pillars in
front, and decorated with a profusion of enamel
and gilding. It stands in the aisle below the
east window, reaching to the height of 8 or
10 feet, and measuring 5 feet square inside.
There are two or three steps in front, and
above these there is an opening like a window,
the sides of which are lighted with lamps.
The skeletons are said to be preserved in a
coffin of silver, placed beneath the shrine, not
open to the public gaze ; the only portions
displayed being the skulls . Three skulls stand
in a row ; of jetty darkness ; and around the
brow of each ghastly object, beneath a crown
of gilt metal, is bound a fillet, on which, in
sparkling gems of different colours, is in-
scribed the name of the particular saint who
owned it. The three names so blazoned
are Caspar, Melchior, and Balthazar. On the
front of the shrine is an inscription in Latin,
importing that here lie the bodies of the Holy
Magi. It is alleged that the shrine and its
ornaments are worth 240,000,?. On the pave-
ment between the front of the shrine and the
back of the high altar in the choir, an inscrip-
tion states that the heart of Marie de Medicis
lies beneath.

The Churches are numerous, and all worthy
of note. Especially should be visited

St. Ursula's, famous for the bones of the
Eleven Thousand Virgins.

The Apostles' Church, a fine Roman-
esque. *

St. Peter's Church, with paintings and
carvings.

St. Gereoris Church, very ancient.

St. Maria in Capitolio Church, so called
from the site of the old Roman capital.

197

Great St. Martins Church, a fine Roman-
esque.

The New Museum.

The Giirzenich, where the German Em-
perors banquetted.

The Rath-house, antique.

The Zoological Gardens, a place of popular
evening resort.

Eau de Cologne, the celebrated and staple
Manufacture of the place, is produced by
half-a-hundred rival dealers, all of the name
of Farina, each of whom perplexingly declares
himself to be the real Simon Pure. The
truth is, the first place belongs to the house
whose title is " Gegeniiber dem Julichs-
platz."

Railways extend from Cologne on both sides
of the Rhine upwards and downwards.

BONN

is the next town of importance. It can be
reached by steamer in two hours, the banks
being unpicturesque ; as well as by railway in
half the time, which is preferable.

Bonn has a population of 23,000. It is
famous for its university, etc.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The University. A plain building, with
pretty park around.

The Minster Church. An extremely beau-
tiful building.

The House where Beethoven was born.

The Chateau of Poppelsdorf, with a
museum.

The Church on the Kreutzberg.

At Bonn, the steamer should be taken
upward.

Having left Bonn,

The Siebengebirge, a range of Seven
peaked Mountains on the right bank, opens
to view. But first is passed, at the distance
of about a mile inland on the left bank, the
conspicuous ruin of the Castle of Godesberg,
perched on the top of a conical mount, rising
from a richly-wooded plain. This is only the
first ruined castle of hundreds of precisely the
same character and appearance to follow.
The Castle of Godesberg was built in the
year 1210, on the remains of a Roman fort,
by Theodoric, Archbishop of Cologne ; and
was destroyed by an invading army of Bava-
rians in the year 1583. The most conspicuous
part of the old gray structure is a tall round
tower, which is seen from a great distance.
Near the Castle is the Village of Godesberg,
198

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

an agreeable place of summer resort, and also
enjoying some celebrity for its baths and
mineral waters.

The Siebengebirge are on the opposite side.
The outermost of these hills, standing almost
close to the right bank of the river, is named
Drachenfels. It is of volcanic origin. On
its summit stands a ruined castle, once a
stronghold of the Counts of Drachenfels, a
family of daring robber chieftains.

The Drachenfels is easily ascended from
the village of Konigswinter, near its base, and
the extensive view which is obtained from its
summit amply repays the light toil and brief
time incurred in the excursion. The height of
the mountain is 1,056 feet.

Rolandseck, a ruined castle, stands nearly
opposite the Drachenfels, on the top of a
crag, on the left bank of the river.

Nonnenworth lies in the middle of the
Rhine, between the two aforesaid grayfortlets ;
a pretty island, containing a church.

Oberwinter and Unkel villages are passed,
and then

Remagen appears on the left bank, a small
town, with the

Apollinaris Church, a beautiful modern
Gothic on the overhanging hill, a striking
object ; the interior finely frescoed ; quite a
show-place, worth stopping to see.

Altenahr, and the Lake and Abbey of
Laach lie to the right of Remagen, a pretty
excursion of a day.

Erpel and its basalt- quarries lie nearly oppo-
site Remagen. A little higher up is

Linz, a small town, with fine old church,
Byzantine style.

The Castle of Arenfels, a handsome res-
toration, soon comes in sight.

After passing Niederbreisig, appears, at
intervals of every half-mile or mile on both
banks, something interesting, in the shape of
town, castle, or vine-clad hill. The river
winds " as through an avenue of mountains,"
which sometimes approach so close to the
stream as to leave little space for the high-
way on either side ; and at other times recede
a distance of a quarter or half a mile.

The to'juns and villages of the Rhine are re-
markably uniform in their general aspect and
character. Each consists of a row, or
parallel-rows of houses exceedingly ancient in
appearance, surrounded by walls of defence,
these being very low, and in most cases in a
state of rugged decay. Each town has its
church, whose spire is a chief object rising
199

from the cluster of encircling human dwellings.
These communities are the miserable remains
of burghs which flourished hundreds of years
ago under the auspices or despotism of the
Feudal Chiefs whose castles crown the neigh-
bouring heights, and what now remain are
only the residences of the humble farmers of
the district, and of the cultivators of the vines
of the Rhine that grow on the adjacent hills.
The precipices, which rise to the height of
700 feet, are formed into terraces like steps of
stairs, one terrace above another. The vines
to be cultivated on these terraces are planted
in baskets of mould forced into the clefts of
the rocks, or supported by the walls which
form the divisions between the terraces. Un-
less great care were taken in thus preserving
the baskets of mould, the whole would be
washed away by the winter torrents, and the
poor families who own them would be ruined
in the course of an hour.

The Castle of Rheineck, with lovely view,
occupies a lofty height. This ancient
fortlet was burnt down in the year 1785,
and restored in 1832. Immediately beyond is

Brohl, a large village with a populati on of
700 inhabitants, standing at the outlet of a
romantic valley. The Valley of Brohl affords
interesting subjects to the Mineralogist. In
the upper part of the valley lies the Lake of
Laach, surrounded by wild volcanic heights.

At a short distance beyond Brohl, on the
right bank, is the picturesque and massive
ruin of the Castle of Hammerstein, famous in
the Thirty-years war, on the summit of a
steep. At the foot of the ascent, shut in by
rocks and the river, lies the little village of
Nieder-Hammerstein. And somewhat fur-
ther on, the village of Ober-Hammerstein.
The shelving banks which overhang the river
on the approach to Andernach constitute a
pass resembling that of the Drachenfels, and
almost as romantic in appearance.

Andernach is an ancient walled town. One
of the most romantic-looking on the whole
river.

A little beyond, on the top of the heights,
on the right bank, the village of Feldkirche is
seen ; and below it, on the river, the village of
Fahr ; and the ruined Castle of Friedrichstein .
The hills at this part of the river recede ;
and in the centre of the basin stands
Neuwied.

NEUWIED.

Neuwied has a population of 9000. It is a
town consisting of a number of tall white

200

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

structures, with sloping roofs, and a neat,
regularly-built street, stretching along the
margin of the stream. The town was built
about a century ago, with the declared object
of offering a home to persons of all sorts of
religious opinions, whence it became the j
almost immediate resort of intelligent indi- I
viduals from all parts of Europe. Here the |
Persecuted-for-conscience-sake found repose, ,
and still do so, so far as outsiders know. I
Neuwied rejoices also in a large Educational
Establishment, belonging to the Society of
Moravians, who at present amount to 2000
individuals of both sexes. Above Neuwied
lies a beautiful wooded island, opposite which
is the small town of

WEISSENTHURM.

This spot was that selected by Julius Caesar
for crossing the Rhine. The old Roman's
successful attempt was followed by a French
Republican Army in the year of modern
history 1797, and this bold exploit was safely
effected, notwithstanding the opposition of
the Austrian forces. Hoche led it, and, dying
a few days afterwards, the army erected an
Obelisk to his memory on the rising ground
above Weissenthurm, overlooking the point
in the river where the bold passage had been
accomplished. It bears the brief inscription
in French " The Army of the Sambre and
Meuse, to its General-in-Chief, Hoche."

ENGERS,

a small town, with a modern chateau, stands
embosomed in trees on the right bank, and
a short way beyond it, on a rising ground, is
the large town of

BENDORF.

A quaint old Church is here. Fruit trees
show in abundance.

Other towns and villages are passed, islands |
left behind, and from a capacious reach of the
river, is presented a striking spectacle, the
lofty heights of Ehrenbreitstein on the right
bank, and Coblenz on the left.

COBLENZ.

Coblenz, the Confluentia of the Romans,
occupies a situation of great beauty on the
tongue of land formed by the junction of the
Moselle-river with the Rhine. The Wines
of the Moselle are celebrated for a light,
pleasant flavour, and high aroma. Coblenz is
the centre-point of a cluster of armed fortresses,
forming a strong bulwark of Prussia. The
chief of these is

201

EHRENBREITSTEIN,

which occupies a mountain on the opposite
side of the Rhine, the channel of which its
guns sweep right and left. This fortress has
been long celebrated for its powers of defence.
In the wars of the French Louis XIV., it
held out against and defied that monarch
with all the forces he could bring against
it. In the wars of the French Republic, in
the years 1798 and 1799, it also held out long
against the first generals of France.

Coblenz, on the left bank of the stream,
has a population of 33,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Monument to Marceau, a young general
of the French Republican Army, who was
killed at the battle of Altenkirchen, on the
2 ist September, 1796. At his interment both
French and Austrians, friends and enemies,
attended to do honour to his worth. Byron's
lines have rendered this memorial still more
famous.

The Church of St. Castor stands on the
angle of land at the junction of the Moselle
and Rhine. An exceedingly old church, with
four lofty towers. It was originally built in
the year 836, with foundations resting on a
Roman substructure ; and within its walls, in
the year 843, the grandsons of the Emperor
Charlemagne met to divide his possessions
into Germany, France, and Italy. The square
in front of the church, or Castorhof, as it is
termed, contains an object of great historical
interest

The Stone Fountain. Erected during the
occupation of the city by the French in the
year 1812, according to an inscription upon its
side, by Jules Doazan, the French prefect of
the department, to commemorate the expedi-
tion of the First Napoleon to Russia. The
town shortly afterwards fell into the hands of
the Russians themselves, and the Russian
Commandant in turn inscribed his view of the
subject below the inscription of the French-
man. These famous inscriptions stand liter-
ally as follows :
"Anno, 1812. Memorable par le Campagne

contre les Russes, sous la Prefecture de

Jules Doazan."
" Vu et approuve par nous, Commandant

Russe de la Ville de Coblenz, le I Janvier,

1814."

The Rhine at Coblenz exhibits a busy
scene of arrivals and departures of steamers
every hour of the day. Such are the arrange-
ments, that tourists may either proceed direct
to Mayence without stopping, or stop al
202

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

night at Coblcnz, and proceed in the morn-
ing. Tourists should, if possible, remain a
few days at Coblenz, for the purpose of
making excursions to interesting spots of the
neighbourhood.

An excursion up the Moselle as far as
Treves, and back again, is full of interest.
The smaller steamers on the Moselle-river
afford every desirable accommodation.

A visit to Stolzenfels can also most easily
be made from Coblenz. It is the most per-
fect of the feudal castles on the Rhine. The
name Stolzenfels signifies " Proud Rock," a
name justified by the high position of the
castle on a rock overlooking the Rhine.
Originally a seat of the Archbishop of Treves,
this strikingly picturesque castle was destroyed
by the French in the year 1688, and lay long
in ruins. It was restored and beautified a few
years ago at an expenditure of .53,000, by
the King of Prussia. No tourist should fail
to visit Stolzenfels. It is beautifully fitted up,
in the best style of art, to resemble as closely
as possible the furniture of the Middle-Ages.
The view from the windows and turrets is
very grand.

EMS

is within a short distance of Coblenz and
Stolzenfels, -J an hour by railway.

Ems is a celebrated watering-place, on the
little river Lahn. It has a population of
4000. Its springs are efficacious in pulmonary
complaints and female disorders. The visitors
frequently number 6000. It is pretty, and,
confined by hills, is intensely close in
summer. The Emperor of Germany and
other Crowned heads patronise it. The former
was here when the French broke the peace ot
Europe in 1870 by declaring war against him.

Continuing the upward course of the Rhine,
the steamer passes the pretty island of
Oberwerth. Beyond this, the Valley of the
Lahn debouches on the one side, and the
Castle of Stolzenfels stands on the other.

Stolzenfels, just referred to, is passed on
the right. And Lahnstein, immediately op-
posite, conducts by rail to Ems.

RHENZE,

a little old town on the left bank, is a spot
of historical interest. Before reaching it are
Four Stones, part of the ancient and vene-
rable monument called Konigsstuhl, where
the old Electors of the Rhine used to
assemble to deliberate on the interests of
203

Germany. A short way beyond Rhenze is
the town of

BRAUBACH,

with the ancient castle of Marksburg. This
latter is still entire, and frowns from the top
of a high mount overhanging the right bank
of the river. It was recently used as a state
prison.

BOPPART,

a good-sized town on the left bank, has two
interesting churches. Beyond and above the
town is a very large ancient edifice, once a
nunnery, then a cotton-spinning factory, and
now a hydropathic establishment.

On the right bank, the romantic ruins of
two Castles, Sternberg and Liebenstein, on
the summits of two adjacent craggy knolls, are
very striking. Below, by the water's edge,
are the Church and Convent of Bornhofen.

Proceeding onwards, the banks become
more and more rocky and wild, the river
winds its way through a ravine, whose shelv-
ing sides are too steep to afford footing even
for the hardy vine-dresser. Through this, the
wildest part of the whole river-scenery, the
attention is successively called to the castles
of

Thurriberg and Katzenelribogen, both in
ruins, on rocks on the right bank ; and oppo-
site them, on a high cliff on the left, the
massive ruined fortress of

Rheinfels. This castle was originally built
in the year 1245 by a Count of Katzenelnbogen,
for enforcing tribute from the vessels plying
on the river. After being destroyed by the
Hanseatic Confederacy, it was rebuilt by the
Landgrave of Hesse, but was finally given up
to the French in the year 1794, by whom
it was properly blown up, and completely
destroyed. The marks of the conflagration
are visible on its blackened walls.

At the base of the Rheinfels stands the new
town of St. Goar, rebuilt after a fire ; and
opposite it, on the other side of the river
the supplementary town of St. Goarshausen.
Immediately beyond, one of the narrowest
parts of the river, overhung with perpendicular
cliffs, is entered

The Lurlei. Here, to bring out the echoes
for which the spot is celebrated, a cannon is
usually fired as the steamer passes. The spot
has received the name of Lurlei, or water-
spirit, from a wild legend, which depicts the
once-dangerous pass as being haunted by a
Fair Spirit, of feminine gender, who lured the
navigators of the Rhine to destruction.
204

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Another legend confers the name of " The
Seven Sisters " on so many rocks, which, at
certain seasons, when the stream is low, show
their heads above the surface. These sisters
were the seven daughters of the Lord of
Schonberg, whose castle is above Oberwesel ;
they were distinguished for extreme haughti-
ness towards their suitors ; and to punish this,
they were, by Fairy agency, transformed into
rocks. Passing these unfortunate young
ladies, Oberwesel is reached on the left bank.

OBERWESEL

is a town with a population of 3000. It is
distinguished by a handsome Gothic Church,
and the ruins of

The Castle of Schonberg, which looks down
from a bold rock beyond the town.

Caub, a small town, follows. On a steep
above it are the ruins of

The Castle of Gutenfels. Nearly abreast of
Gutenfels, on a rock in the middle of the
Rhine, rises the very ancient castle of

The Pfalz, consisting of a central tower
and buildings around it, the whole walled in,
and only approachable by a temporary wooden
stair let down to the edge of the water. The
Pfalz served at one time as a toll-house for
the river, at another time as a state prison.
Its isolated position caused it to be resorted
to for protection during the turbulence of the
middle-ages. The Countesses of the Palatin-
ate (or Pfalz) patronized it on occasions of
their accouchements which fact perhaps
conveys the most impressive testimony to the
terrible insecurity of life and person in the
brilliant heroic age of Chivalry and rose-
coloured Romance.

BACHARACH,

on the left bank, is an old town, said to derive
its name from a rock situated in the middle
of the river called by the Romans, " Ara
Bacchi," the Altar of Bacchus, from an idea
that, when it was visible above the water in
summer, there vrould be a good yield of wine,
in other words, that when the summer was
dry and warm, the grapes would ripen to the
greatest perfection.

At Bacharach, the Church of St. Werner,
of light and elegant construction, Gothic, is
of great beauty. The Church of St. Peter,
too, is fine. The ruins of the Castles of
Stahleck and Furstenberg are close by.

A short way beyond Bacharach, on the
right bank of the river, stands the small town
of

205

LORCH.

There is a handsome Church here, and the
ruins of the Castle of Nollingen preside above
it.

On the opposite side are seen successively
the ruined Castles of Furstenthal t Heimburg,
Sonneclt, Falkenburg, and

The Castle of New Rheinstein. This latter
fort has been effectively restored by the
Royal family of Prussia. It is well worth a
visit, on account of the style of its architecture,
as well as for the ancient armour, carving,
embroidery, painted windows, antique vessels,
and other rare things it contains, all in perfect
keeping with the high feudal character of the
structure itself.

On the right bank the small town of

Assmannshausen faces the Rheinstein. It.
is celebrated for an excellent wine.

On issuing from the narrows at Assmanns-
hausen, the Rhine makes a bend round a
rocky promontory on which stand the ruins
of

The Castle of Ehrenfels. Here the river
quits the wild and romantic mountain-pass
extending from Boppart to Bingen. Now a
scene of an entirely different character is about
to be presented. The Rhine expands to a
great breadth, the hills slope backwards on
each side with easy ascent, and at the opening
of this charming district on the left bank is
situated the town of

Bingen, on an angle of land formed by the
junction of the Nahe river and the Rhine.
In advance of Bingen, on a rock in the Rhine,,
nearly opposite the embouchure of the Nahe
river, stands the renowned castle of

The Mausethurm, or Mouse-Tower, the
moving tale of which has been done into
verse by Southey. It commemorates the
cruelties and covetousness of a Bishop Hatto,
of Mayence, who, while concealing himself
from his rebellious people in this tower of
strength, was devoured by an army of rats.

BINO-EN.

Bingen has a population of 8000. It is a
starting-point for those who wish to explore or*
foot the beauties of the country on both banks
of the river, including the scenery of the Nahe,
(Railway to Kreutznach in % hour.) On a
height above Bingen stands the white Church
of St. Rochus, conspicuous from a great
distance, a striking land-mark. The beauteous
stretch of country commencing on the Rhine
at Bingen is locally styled the Rheingau, or
Rhine-country par excellence t and within
206

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

this fertile tract the finest Wines are produced.
Assmannshausen, then Riidesheim, Johannis-
berg, and localities one after the other, all
celebrated for the superior quality of their
wines, lie within the compass of two or three
miles on the rich slopes. Opposite St. Rochus
is

RUDESHEIM.

Here tourists land for visiting the Nieder-
wald, a forest, covering the hills above, from
which are obtained magnificent views of
Rhine-scenery. Beyond Riidesheim, on the
same side, stands

BIEBRICH.

Town, and princely residence of the Dukes
of Nassau. The town has a population of
8000. The Palace occupies a conspicuous
situation facing the Rhine, a handsome
edifice, in the old French style, with gardens
at back.

From Biebrich, railways conduct to Wies-
baden and Frankfort-on-the-Main, but they
are more usually visited after Mayence, con-
tinuing the Route of the Rhine.

MAYENCE.

Mayence, or Mainz, has a population of
60,000. It stands on the left bank of the
Rhine, nearly opposite the outlet of the
Main. During the Roman occupancy of
Gaul this town was the seat of a fortress,
built by Drusus, in the reign of Trajan. In
the course of the Middle-Ages it became an
important city under an Archbishop. It is
strongly fortified.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, one of the oldest and most
picturesque in Germany, a structure of great
antiquity. Begun in the Tenth century, its
erection extended over nearly 200 years. At
various times it has been injured by war. The
interior contains many fine old carved monu-
ments and altars.

The House of Gutenberg. Mayence derives
celebrity from having been the place where
Printing was invented, in the Fifteenth century.
Its inventor's, Gutenberg, house, where was
set up his first press, is shown.

Bronze Statue, in honour of the illustrious
Gutenberg, executed by Thorwaldsen, in 1837,
in the Market-place.

Museum of Antiquities in the Palace.

Town Library, with many MSS.

Roman Tomb of Drusus, in the Citadel.

At Mayence, ascending tourists leave the
Rhine.

207

From Mayence rails conduct in a \ of an
hour to Wiesbaden, the most celebrated water-
ing place in Nassau ; in an hour to Frankfort-
on-the-Main ; in 2 hours to Mannheim ; in
z\ hours to Heidelberg; on the Direct Routes
for Switzerland, as well as for Northern and
Southern Germany.

WIESBADEN.

From Biebrich, or from Mayence, by railway,
equally in ^ of an hour.

Wiesbaden has a population of 33,000. It
is the chief town of Nassau. It is regularly
built, houses of a dazzling white appearance,
and numbers of handsome public edifices and
hotels. The roads from Biebrich, Mayence,
and Frankfort, to Wiesbaden are charming ;
being shaded on each side by a row of trees,
the approach seems like a private park ; and,
as Wiesbaden is entered, one appears to
be entering a City of Kings, so majestic-
looking are its buildings and situation. All
around are valleys, orchards, meadows, fields,
wooded mountains, and vine-clad hills.

Wiesbaden is one of the most beautiful, as
well as one of the oldest, of German Watering-
places. For its antiquity the remains of Roman
forts around, coins, etc., amply vouch ; while
its beauty is testified to by all who come into
its neighbourhood. It is called the " Pearl
of German Watering-places." The town is so
clean and well-built, that Goethe has invited
lovers of modern Architecture to " take their
models from the Kurhaus and streets of
Wiesbaden." The streets are macadamised,
and shaded by rows of trees, dividing into
distinct paths, the centre for carriages, and
the sides for pedestrians.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Hot Spring of mineral water. It rises
in large volume at a temperature of about 156
degrees, Fahrenheit. It is drunk by visitors
from all parts of the world, averaging 25,000.
It is efficacious in gout, rheumatic complaints,
plethora, and dyspepsia.

Independently of its mineral spring, Wies-
baden is attractive from its mild winter climate
and good society. During the summer season
there are concerts and other public amuse-
ments. In the neighbourhood are pretty walks
and drives.

FRANKFORT.

From Wiesbaden, by railway, in ij hour.
From Mayence, by railway, in \ an hour.
208

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Frankfort-on-the-Main has a population of
106,000. It is a city of ancient date. Latterly
it has been modernised, "improved," and
beautified, its old fortifications swept away,
the environs opened and laid out in prome-
nades. These novelties, with the aspect of
the many handsome villas now erected at the
outlets of the town, give Frankfort more the
appearance of an English or American than a
Continental city. In German, Frankfurt,

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Zeil, the chief street.

The Stadel Museum. Paintings. Open
from 10 to I o'clock daily.

TJie Senkenberg Museum of Natural History
objects.

The Bethmann Museum possesses the
famous " Ariadne" by Dannecker.

Tfie Monument to the Hessians.

The Dom, or Cathedral.

Tlie Romer. In this building the German
Emperors, after their coronation, banquetted.

The House -where Goethe was born.

The House of the Rothschilds.

The Monuments to Schiller, Goethe, Guter.-
berg, Faust, and Schceffer.

TJie Jewish Synagogue.

The Schone Aussicht.

The Town- Library.

The Anlagen.

The Zoological Gardens.

The Cemetery contains the famous Beth-
mann vault.

HOMBTJRG

is easily visited from Frankfort by railway in
| of an hour. It has a population of 10,000,
five Mineral springs, and the usual Kursaal,
park, concerts, balls, reading-room, &c Its
Public Gambling-tables have been closed by
law.

From Frankfort can equally be visited
Northern and Southern Germany Carrying
out the plan of our " GENERAL CONTINENTAL
TOUR," as already outlined, we shall conduct
the Traveller first by

SOUTHERN GERMANY.

From Frankfort to Switzerland.

HEIDELBERG.

From Frankfort, by railway, in 2 hours.

Heidelberg has a population of 20,000. It
is one of the oldest towns in Germany. It
occupies a confined situation in the valley of
the Xeckar, within the range of the Odenwald
Mountains. From the bank of the Neckar
the streets stretch upwards to the base of a
hill, on which, over all, in the midst of masses
of foliage, stand the ruins of the Castle,
*' majestic eren in decay." The valley of the
Neckar presents at its opening a scene of
great quiet beauty. Immediately opposite
the town rises a hill, covered to the summit
with vineyards, and at the foot ornamented
with handsome villas. Between the hills on
both sides, the Neckar stream pursues its
long course into the open country, and thence
on to the Rhine. The town of Heidelberg is
long and straggling, consisting of tall antique
stone buildings, with tiled roofs. Some of
the edifices are embellished in front with
curiously carved figures and inscriptions, which
have survived the general destruction which
209

the town has at different times sustained at
the hands of assailants.

Services of the English Church, and also of
the Church of Scotland, are celebrated here
in the season, summer and autumn.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Castle. It occupies the hill above the
town, and encloses several acres of ground.
Its construction, of red sandstone, exhibits
still a bold and magnificent front, a central
block, like a dwelling house, with regular
rows of windows on the various floors, flanked
at the eastern angle by a huge round tower.
The corresponding tower at the other corner
is gone, leaving a shattered gap. The edifice,
when entire in all its parts, was one of the
largest feudal strongholds in Germany, and
formed not only an almost impregnable fortress,
but a splendid palace. The Electors-Palatine
made this castle their chief place of residence.
The Palatinate was the quarter in Germany,
which formed, during the Seventeenth century,
a favourite battle-ground to the European
powers ; and Heidelberg, as the capital of the
district, came in for more than an ordinary
210

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

share of the horrors of military devastation.
The town has been repeatedly burnt and
pillaged ; the last of the attacks having been
in 1693, when the castle was taken by the
French, blown up and really destroyed.

The Apartments in the castle which were
at one time occupied by the Princess Eliza-
beth, daughter of James I. of England, and
wife of the then Elector-Palatine.

The Vault, containing the Tun. This
famous huge cask occupies an entire cellar.
The top is reached by a platform with a rail,
to which visitors ascend by stairs. The Tun
measures 33 feet in length by 24 feet in
diameter, and is capable of containing 283,000
bottles, or about 800 hogsheads. It was used
for wine.

The University is celebrated, and contains
about 800 students. The Professors are of
distinguished repute.

The Battle-Fields of the Franco-German
War of 1870-1871 may be advantageously
visited from this side, as shown on the plan of
our outlined " GENERAL CONTINENTAL
TOUR," passing by Strassburg, and re-joining
the present direct line of route at Baden-
Baden.

STRASSBTTKG.

Strassburg, in French Strasbourg, has a
population of 90,000. It was bombarded by
the Germans in 1870, and surrended by the
French after a gallant defence.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, a masterpiece of architec-
ture, the work of Erwin of Steinbach, begun
in the year 1277, and finished in 1601. Its
spire is 468 feet above the level of the pave -
ment. The ascent requires considerable
nerve ; the stone-work is so very open that in
case of giddiness, or of a slip, one's body
might pass quite through ; and there have

been several such cases. The interior is rich
in stained glass, but " the most remarkable "(!)
object it contains is the world-renowned clock,
constructed 300 years ago. At 12 o'clock
precisely, the only time during the twelve
hours, its Cock crows, and all its Puppets,
etc., are set in motion.

The Church of St. Thomas contains the
monument to Marshal Saxe by Pigalle,
erected to the memory of that hero by his
sovereign, Louis XV.

Gutenberg's Statue, in the Market-place.
His first attempt at printing was made here in
the year 1435.

The Pates de foies gras, of enlarged livers
of Geese, are the renowned specialite of Strass-
burg.

The direct line of route is re-joined at
BADEN-BADEN.

Baden-Baden has a population of 10,000,
which is quintupled in " the season," the
summer-months, by its visitors. The waters
are of slight curative efficiency ; the attraction
is the society from all parts of the world, and
the exceeding beauty of the scenery.

T,HE BLACK FOREST.

A very beautiful tract of wooded scenery,
now traversed by a branch railway, lies to the
left of our route.

The towns of

OFFENBURG

with a population of 4000 ; a head-quarters
for the wines of the district ; and

FREIBURG

with a population of 22,000, and a hand-
some Cathedral, at the entrance to the
Hollenthal ; are passed on the way to Basel
(German) or Bale (French), for which refer
to the heading " SWITZERLAND."

211

212

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.
NORTHERN GERMANY.

From Frankfort-on-the-Main.

Railways connect all the cities. The order
here is followed as outlined on our " GENERAL
CONTINENTAL TOUR," of Hanover, Bremen,
Hamburg, Brunswick, Berlin, Leipzig, Dres-
den, Prague, to Vienna, and the Danube.

HANOVER.

From London, by Rotterdam, by steamer
and railway, hi 26 hours. From Diisseldorf,
by railway, in 4^ hours. From Cologne, by
railway, in 5 hours. From Frankfort, by
railway, in 8 hours.

Hanover, in German Hannover, has a popu-
lation of 90.020. It is situated on a sandy
plain, threaded by the river Leine.

The connection between Hanover and Eng-
land is very close. Hanover has given Eng-
land Kings ; and English continental battles
have been fought by its soldiers. The present
King, George V., born May 27, 1819, and
first cousin to Queen] Victoria, is a Prince of
Great Britain, an English Duke, and Irish
Earl, and a General of the British Army. He
succeeded his father, Ernest, last Duke of
Cumberland (son of George III.), in the year
1851, under the title of George V., and has
reigned in Hanover at the head of a govern-
ment, on the whole, satisfactory to his subjects.
In 1843 he married the Princess Alexandra,
eldest daughter of Joseph Duke of Saxe-
Altenburg, by whom he has a son and two
daughters, Ernest, Crown-Prince of Hanover,
the Princess Frederica Sophia, and the Prin-
cess Mary Ernestina. In the year 1866 King
George lost his crown ; when the Seven-
Weeks War broke out between Austria and
Prussia, he took part with Austria. The
result was that in June, the same year, his
territory was occupied by Prussian troops,
and on 2Oth September Hanover was by
formal decree annexed to Prussia. Since then,
the King has lived in Austria, occasionally
visiting Paris. He lost his sight, many years
ago, by an accident. He is of high mental
culture, a great lover of music, and is said to
be most amiable. The Princess Frederica,

attends on her blind father, personally admin-
istering to his wants, acting as his private
secretary at home, and as his guide out of
doors. And the Princess Frederica is famous
for beauty, intelligence, and energy.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Old Town, on the right bank of the
river, with crooked, narrow streets, poorly
built, and dirty.

The New Town, more regular, lined with
handsome houses.

The Chief Streets, the Georg-Strasse, and
the Friedrich-Strasse.

The Royal Stables. The Guelphs in all
ages have been lovers of horses, and have
excelled in horsemanship. Almost all the
other public buildings with which Ernest
Augustus adorned this his favourite city were
allowed to fall into decay after his son,
George I. ascended the English Throne, these
magnificent structures alone excepted.

The Waterloo Column, 156 feet high, to
the memory of the Hanoverians who fell in the
Battle of Waterloo.

The Royal Palace, or Schloss. Interior
splendid.

The Ritter-Saal, or Knights'-Hall, magni-
ficently furnished, contains some fine portraits.

The Reliquarium contains some curious
relics, brought from Palestine by Henry the
Lion.

The Opera-House is fine.

The Schloss-Kirche'vs, one of the handsomest
churches in the city.

BREMEN.

From Hanover, by railway, in 2| hours.
Bremen has a population of 85,000. It is
situated on both banks of the Weser. Its
manufactures are snuff and cigars, the latter
are the largest in the world ; and it has
numerous distilleries, breweries, linen and
woollen-factories, sugar-refineries, tanneries.,
and soap-works. It exports large quanti-
ties of linen, woollens, provisions, and grain.
The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral, built in the year 1160.
214

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

77*? Church of St. Ansgarius has a spire
325 feet in height.

Hie New Tmtm-hall was formerly the
Archiepiscopal palace.

7'he Old Town-hall, built in the year 1405,
II.TS the famous Wine-cellars containing vats
filled with Hock said to be above 100 years
old.

Steamers leave Bremen for New York
twice-a-week. For Hull, every Tuesday. For
London, every Monday.

HAMBURG.

From Bremen, by railway, in 2 hours.

Hamburg has a population of 340,000. It
is a free Imperial city. It is situated on the
River Elbe. It is the first Commercial port
of Germany. The business-portion of the
city is magnificent. Few of its public build-
ings deserve special note.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Exchange, a very beautiful building.
It was finished in the year 1841.

The Gymnasium, a modern structure,
po c sesses a Library of 250,000 volumes, and a
Museum.

The Church of St. Peter is the most ancient
in the city, having been built in the Twelfth
century.

The Church of St. Michael is magnificent.
Its Tower, 460 feet high, is ascended by 600
steps. It contains an Organ of 5600 pipes,
considered one of the finest on the Continent.

The Literary and Charitable Institutions of
Hamburg are numerous.

The Suburbs are very beautiful, and exhibit
flower-gardens, tea-gardens, villas, and monu-
ments in every direction.

BRUNSWICK.

From Hanover, by railway, in f of an hour.

Brunswick, in German Braunschweig, the
capital of the Duchy of the same name, has a
population of 60,000. Its Manufactures are
linens, woollens, and hardware. It boasts ex-
cellent Schools and Charitable Institutions.
Vhe city has a quaint appearance, with gables,
high-pitched roofs, overhanging stories one
above the other, the tops of the houses on
either side of the narrow streets often making
close approach to one another.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Residenz-schloss. It is elegantly fur-
nished.

215

The Cathedral, St. Blasius, was finished by
Henry the - Lion. It is massive, in the By-
zantine style. It contains monuments to the
Dukes of Brunswick, &c. Note the coffin of
Caroline of Brunswick, the ill-fated Queen of
George IV. of England. It has also nume-
rous Relics brought from the East by Henry
the Lion.

A large bronze Lion, near the Cathedral, is
said to have been cast in Constantinople, and
brought from there by Henry the Lion.

The Museum, also near the Cathedral, con-
tains numerous Paintings and Sculptures. It
is open daily, Monday excepted, from 1 1 to I
o'clock.

The Church of St. Andrew. One of its
steeples is 320 feet high. It contains a fine
bronze font.

The Church of St. Catharine has paintings
by Diebrich, and stained-glass windows.

The Church of St. Martin. Pointed Gothic
style.

MAGDEBURG.

From Brunswick, by railway, in 2^ hours.

Magdeburg has a population of 90,000. It
is one of the strongest fortresses in Europe.
Its citadel is built on an island in the Elbe,
which runs through the town. Its Manufac-
tures are cottons, woollens, gloves, lace, porce-
lain, and tobacco.

Magdeburg is a very ancient town. It has
existed from the Eighth century. It suffered
much from the Religious wars of the Sixteenth
and Seventeenth centuries, but most of all
when sacked by the ferocious Tilly, when
30,000 of its inhabitants, men, women, and
children, were massacred in the most brutal
manner. It resisted the Austrian army under
Wallenstein for seven months. It was
besieged and taken by the French in the years
1806 and 1813.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Dom-Kirche, or Cathedral, a splendid
structure. The interior is magnificent. It
contains many fine sculptured monuments.
The chief are those of the Archbishop Ernest,
in bronze, surrounded by figures of the Twelve
Apostles ; the tombs of the Emperor Otho
and his Queen Editha ; that of Bake, a Canon
of this church, who saved it from destruction
by interceding with Tilly, whose school-fellow
he was.

The Equestrian Statues of the Emperor
Otho and his two queens, erected in the year
979, stand in the Old-market, opposite the
Rathhaus.

216

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

BERLIN.

From Magdeburg, by railway, in 2f hours.

Berlin has a population of 845,000. It is
the Capital of Prussia, and the Empire. It is
the leading city of Germany, for the variety of
its Manufactures, the chief of which are cloth,
linen, carpets, silks, ribbon, printed cotton,
jewellery, paper, porcelain, and musical in-
struments. It is the great centre of instruo

sides of this street. Here are the Palaces of
the Queen of Holland, the Prince William of
Prussia, son-in-law of Queen Victoria, the
Academy of Fine Arts, the Emperor's Palace,
the Opera-House, the Arsenal, and the semin-
aries of the Artillery and Engineers. And
here the Fashionable exhibit themselves in
their splendid equipages.

The Brandenburg Gate is at the extremity
of this street. It forms the principal entiance

tion and intellectual development in Northern
Germany. Its Libraries are large, and its
Educational establishments very numerous.

" Berlin has the air of the metropolis of a
kingdom of yesterday ; no gothic churches,
narrow streets, fantastic gables, historic stone
and lime, no remnants to recall the Olden
Time." But Berlin is a city of palaces, huge
barrack-like edifices, with pillars, statues,
etc.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
Unter den Linden, one of the finest streets
in Europe. It is about a mile long, from the
Royal Palace to the Brandenburg gate. The
fine avenues in the centre consist of lime, chest-
nut, plantain, acacia, and aspen trees, whose
various foliages contrast beautifully with the
Palaces and Public buildings which line the

217

to the city. It is surmounted by a magnifi-
cent triumphal arch erected in the year 1789.

The Colossal Equestrian Statue of Frederick
the Great is one of the grandest monuments in
Europe. Its pedestal of granite, twenty-five
feet high, is overlaid with Bronze Groups, the
size of life, of the leading Generals and States-
men during the Seven Years' War.

The Museum is unrivalled in Europe, taken
as a whole. As a building, there are few that
surpass it. At the entrance, which is rich in
works of art, is the famous bronze statue of
the Amazon, by Kiss. Its picture-gallery is
only secondary to the picture-gallery of
Dresden, the Uffizi Gallery and that of the
Pitti Palace at Florence ; but they have not
such a Museum of Antiquities and Historic
reliques. On the first floor is the Museum of

218

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

Antiquities ; on the second, the Sculpture-
Gallery; and on the third, the Picture-
Gallery. The Picture-Gallery is divided into
nearly 40 different departments. In the first
are the Italian, French, and Spanish Schools ;
in the second, the Dutch, Belgian, etc. The
*' Madonna Ancajani " of Raffaelle is famous.
Note the beautiful series of twelve paintings
of the Dutch school, by the Van Eycks, known
as "The Worship of the Spotless Lamb." In
the Spanish school, one of the finest paintings
is Murillo's " St. Anthony embracing the
infant Saviour."

The New Museum contains Egyptian Curio-
sities and Antiquities. Its Sculpture and
Picture-Galleries are open daily, Sunday ex-
cepted, in summer from 10 till 4 o'clock, in
winter from 10 till 3. The collection of Vases
and Bronzes is open only on Wednesday.

The University is a large and magnificent
building. In the right wing is the Anatomical
Museum, one of the most valuable in Europe.

The Imperial Library has 500,000 volumes,
and 5000 Manuscripts.

The Imperial Palace is of immense size,
built of brick and stucco'd. At its gate stand
the Bronze Horses with grooms, copies from
the famed Monte-Cavallo horses at Rome.
The sumptuous furniture, the grandeur of the
interior, the statues, and historical associations
are of extraordinary importance. The White
Hall is the most magnificent apartment in the
city.

The Arsenal, on Unter den Linden, is
a fine building. It is said to contain over
100,000 stand of arms.

The Opera-house is one of the finest in
Europe. There is no city where Music is
more universally patronized, where the opera
is better performed, and more heartily appre-
ciated, than here.

Concert and Ball-rooms where the lower
classes dance, etc., and the higher classes look
on, are numerous.

The Excursions in the neighbourhood are
charming, viz.

CHARLOTTENBURG.

Charlottenburg has a population of 13,000.
it is the summer-residence of many of the
citizens of Berlin. The Mausoleum of the
King Friedrich Wilhelm III., and his Queen,
with their monuments, master-pieces of the
sculptor Rauch, are European lions.

POTSDAM.

Potsdam is the Versailles of Prussia. It
has a population of 50,000. It is beautifully
219

situated on the river Havel, surrounded by
groves, rivulets, meadows, and gardens. It
has five Royal Residences, the Palace of Sans
Souci, the Imperial Palace, the New Palace,
the Marble Palace, and the Palace of Babels-
berg.

Sans Souci is built on the height of a succes-
sion of terraces, planted with vines, olives,
and orange-trees.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The apartments in one of which Frederic
the Great died.

Contiguous to Sans Souci stands a famous
historical Wind-mill. Frederic the Great
desired to purchase it, that he might pull it
down to extend his gardens in that direction ;
the Miller refused. The King brought a stfit
against him, but was beaten in court. Some
years since the owner, having suffered reverses,
offered to sell the mill to the King, on the
strength of it belonging to Prussian History.

The New Palace is about 2^ miles from
Potsdam. It was erected by Frederic the
Great after the Seven- Years' War, at an
enormous expense, to prove to his enemies
the elasticity of his finances in 1763.

The Marble Palace, built by Friedrich
Wilhelm II. on the border of the lake, is
very pretty, and has some fine modern
paintings and arabesques.

Babelsberg is one of the sweetest spots in
perhaps all Germany. It consists of a
modern Castle, designed by Schinkel, beauti-
fully 'furnished, and Grounds laid out with
exquisite taste.

LEIPZIG.

From Berlin, by railway, in ij hours.

Leipzig has a population of I to,ooo. It is
the second city of Saxony, and one of the
most industrial and commercial cities of
Europe. It is situated on a fertile plain near
the right bank of the river Elster.

The Book-trade of Germany has its head-
quarters here.

Three Famous Fairs are held here annually ;
the first beginning on New Year's Day, the
second and most important beginning on the
second Sunday after Easter, and the last
beginning on the first Sunday after Michael-
mas. During these seasons the city is crowded
by strangers from all parts of the world.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

AuerbacKs Cellar, where Gcethe lays one of
the scenes of his tragedy of " Faust." Gcethe
studied at Leipzig University.

The Marki t-placc is old and picturesque.
220

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

he Rathhaus, or town-hall, was formerly
the residence of the Princes of Saxony. It
was occupied by Napoleon I. at the
time of the Battle of Leipzig, in 1813, when
the French Army was defeated here by the
combined forces of Austria, Prussia, and
Russia, after three days' contest. The Battle,
deservedly designated " the Battle of Lions,"
was fought on the i6th, i7th, i8th, and iQth
of October. Napoleon's army amounted to
170,000, and the Allied forces to 300,000. The
loss of the French was about 80,000 men,
the loss of the Allies about 50,000.

The Pleissenburg commands a magnificent
view of the city and environs.

The Walks and gardens round the city are
very pretty.

The Park of Rosenthal is much frequented
during the summer months by all classes.

DRESDEN.
From Leipzig, by railway, in 2^ hours.

Dresden has a population of 180,000. It is
delightfully situated on the river Elbe. It is
the chief city of Saxony and is the most fre-
quented winter-residence of English and
Americans in Europe. Its rich collections of
works of Art, its multiplicity of men of talent,
its splendid opera, its advantages for education,
its elegant society, its healthy bracing climate,
are all rendered doubly valuable from its being
also one of the most economical capitals in
the world. Its environs present a succession
of rising vineyards, groves, meadows, gardens,
and orchards, interspersed with charming
villas, a perfect picture.

Dresden is divided into an old and new
town, these are connected by a grand stone
bridge 1400 feet long and 36 feet broad. The
Xew Town is more regular than the old, and
contains the finest Squares, Streets, and Fau-
bourgs.

The Old Town contains the Royal Palace,
the Terrace of Briihl, the Palace of Briihl,
the Court-Church, the Picture-Gallery, the
Zwinger, and other leading features of the
city's celebrity.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Schloss or Royal Palace, a large, an-
tique, gloomy-looking castle. Its Green Vaults
consist of a series of eight rooms on the
ground-floor. These rooms were formerly
hung with Green, from whence they derive
tliur appellation. The Jewels in one of these
rooms alone are considered worth ,500,000
sterling.

221

The Picture- Gallery is open to the public on
Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday.
Amongst the chief gems is the "Madonna di
San Sisto " by Raffaelle. A separate room
is dedicated to the master-piece of Holbein,
also a " Madonna." There are five of Cor-
reggio's best works, "LaNotte ( " in particular.
Titian's famous " Christo della Moneta," the
Tribute-money-scene; a "Cupid and Venus ;"
and a portrait of his daughter. Carlo Dolce's
" St. Cecilia," his master-piece. Several paint-
ings by Paul Veronese, in his best style, among
which' are his "Adoration of the Magi," "the
Marriage at Cana," and the " Finding of
Moses." Rubens' "Boar-Hunt," the "Judg-
ment of Paris," and the " Garden of Love.'*
Rembrandt's "Entombment of Christ," and
his own Portrait with his Wife sitting on his
knee. Several of Vandyck's most finished
Portraits. And nearly 400 paintings by other,
chiefly Italian, masters. This gallery is also
rich in the works of the later German and
Flemish schools.

The Zwinger is a massive group of buildings
surrounded by an enclosure planted with
orange-trees, forming a nice promenade, much
frequented by the citizens. It contains the
Museum of Armour, and the Museum of
Natural History.

The Museum of Armour is the finest in
Germany. It surpasses all others in the
variety of its offensive and defensive weapons.
Notice its accoutrements of the Tournament ;
the richness and skill evinced in the decora-
tion of the armour and the trappings of man
and horse ; and its relics of great Warriors of
all ages and places.

The Museum of Natural History, in the
lower story of the Zwinger, is open from
eleven till one o'clock daily. Its Bird- col-
lection is notable.

The Frauen-kirche, or Church of our
Lady (Roman Catholic), is a fine stone edifice.

Ihe Court-Church is famous for its music.

The Japanese Palace, situated on the right
bank of the Elbe, in the New Town, is
surrounded by gardens forming public Prome-
nades. The place is now used as a Museum.
It contains a collection of Chinese and
Japanese Porcelain, the specimens of which
exceed 60,000 pieces, and fill twenty rooms ;
a library ; and a cabinet of antiquities.

The Porcelain Factory of Meissen is famous.

The Excursions around Dresden are
numerous. Chief amongst them is that to
" The Saxon Switzerland," so called. The
river Elbe flows through the centre of it.

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

PRAGUE.

From Dresden, by railway, in 5 hours.

VIENNA.

From Prague, by railway, in 8 hours.

THE DANUBE.

SALZBURG, TYROL.

From Vienna, by railway, in 8 hours.

The above belong to and will be found

under the head of

"THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.'*

SOUTHERN GERMANY.

From Vienna to Frank fort-on-the- Main, by Munich, Ratisbon, Niirnberg, Augsburg, Ulm,
Stuttgart, and the Lake of Constance, Railways connect all.

MUNICH.

MUNICH

From Salzburg, by railway, in 4 hours.

Munich, in German Miinchen, has a popu-
lation of 175,000. It is one of the finest
cities of Europe, rich in collections of Works
of Art, Public Buildings, Gardens, Squares,
and Monuments. It is the Capital of Bavaria,
and is situated on the river Isar.

Fiakers, carriages with two horses, and
seats for four persons, ply through the city :
fares, for one or two persons to or from the
rail, 15 kr. ; for three or four persons, 24 kr.

Droschkes, carriages with one horse, fare
for one or two persons to or from the rail,
12 kr.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Resiacnz, or Royal Palace, divided into
three parts, the Alte Residenz or Old Palace,
the Kouigs-bau or New Palace, and the
Festsaal-bau or Hall of Fetes.

The Old Palace has two handsome en-
trances adorned with statues of Wisdom,
Bravery, Justice, Temperance ; and four
223

bronze Lions bearing shields with the arms of
Bavaria and Lorraine. In the centre is a
statue of the Virgin, the Patroness of Bavaria.
A large black Stone fastened by a chain, and
three large Spikes driven into the wall at
different heights, are monuments of the
agility of certain Princes of Bavaria of the
Fifteenth century. The immense stone
weighing 364 Ibs., Prince Christopher hurled
to a vast distance. The upper spike marks
the height to which the same Athlete leaped
from the ground, 12 feet ! the second spike
marks that reached by the Prince Conrad,
9 feet ; and the third spike the Prince Philip's
feat.

The Antiquarium contains Egyptian, Ro-
man, Greek, and German antiquities.

The Schatz-kammer, or Treasury, contains
jewels and precious stones, the great brilliant in
the badge of the order of the Golden Fleece,
the Palatine pearl, half white and half black, the
Crowns of the Emperors, the toilet-sets of the
Empress Amelie in enamel, and of the Em-
press Josephine in lapis-lazuli, equestrian
statue of St. George and the Dragon. On
the table in the centre of the saloon, a copy
of the Emperor Trajan's column at Rome.

The Reiche-Capdle is a chapel dedicated to
the Virgin. It dates from 1607. It has most
precious ornaments and relics. The ceiling is
of gold and blue ; the walls are of Florentine
mosaic ; the floor is inlaid with amethyst,
jasper, and marble ; the high-altar is of solid
silver ; the side-altars are of the costliest
ornamentation. The relics are preserved in
ebony caskets.

224

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

The Kaiser-zimmer, the apartments of Charles
VII. In what luxury these ancient rulers oJ
men lived ! The curtains and coverings of the
royal bed are worked in gold ; they cost
800,000 florins ; and forty persons were em-
ployed for fifteen years in embroidering them.
The First Napoleon occupied this room, but
did not sleep on the bed ; he used his common
Camp-bed in preference.

The Festsaal-bau, Hall of Fetes, faces the
garden. It is used only for high-festivities.
Its front is 800 feet long. It was erected
between the years 1832 and 1842. Its style is
Palladian, after the designs of Von Klenze.
It is one of the most imposing structures of
modern building. A magnificent marble stair-
case, reserved for the highest occasions, con-
ducts to the State-apartments.

The "Rooms of Beauty'" are famous,
adorned with Thirty-seven Portraits of the
most Beautiful Women of Munich, without re-
spect of persons, all having occupied different
social positions, from the Queen to the humble
citizen. This collection is unique in as far
as thirty-seven such Beauties were never else-
where probably seen together. They are said
to be " fair " likenesses. The Universal
Beauty is a little questionable.

The Hall of Battles contains fourteen battle
scenes, representing the doughtiest deeds of
the Bavarian Troops, between the years 1805
and 1815.

The Hall of Charlemagne contains six large
and twelve small paintings illustrative of his
life. The six large are I. Charlemagne, in
boyhood, anointed King of the Franks in the
year 754 by Pope Stephen II., in the presence
of his father Pepin ; 2. Charlemagne vic-
torious over Desiderius at Pavia ; 3. Char-
lemagne victorious over the Saxons ;
4. Charlemagne propagating Christianity
amongst the vanquished; 5. The Council of
Frankfort - on - the - Main ; 6. Charlemagne
crowned Emperor at Rome by Pope Leo III.
The Saloon of Rodolph of Hapslurg,
founder of the reigning dynasty of Austria.
Four large pictures, i. Rodolph resigns his
charger to a Priest to enable him to ad-
minister the Sacrament to a dying soul; 2.
Rodolph learns that he is elected Emperor;
3. Rodolph defeats Ottocar, King of Bo-
hemia ; 4. Rodolph destroys the strongholds
of the Robber-knights, and establishes peace.
2 he Hall <>f the 7'/t>-oneisa gem of architec-
tural beauty and rich and delicate ornamen-
tation. It is decorated with gold on a white
ground. The gallery is supported by twenty
225

Corinthian marble columns, between which
stand Twelve colossal bronze Statues, gilt,
modelled by Schwanthaler, representing
Princes of the Bavarian sovereignty.

The Konigs-bau, New Palace, built in imi-
tation of the Pitti Palace at Florence, is a
magnificent structure. Especially noticeable
are the rooms which illustrate the Nibelungen-
lied, the great National Poem of Germany.
The frescoes are by Schnorr, and are famous
(doubly so since Wagner's great Opera of the
Nibelungs). The First room gives to view all
the Characters represented in the history. The
Second room is the Bridal Chamber, contain-
ing the principal scenes in the life of Siegfried
at the castle of King Gunther at Worms. He
marries Chriemhild. The Third room is the
Chamber of Treachery. Chriemhild tells
Hagen where Siegfried is vulnerable, for the
purpose of his protecting him. Hagen hurls
into the Rhine the treasure of the Nibelungs.
Siegfried is murdered by Hagen. Chriemhild
going to church, discovers the corpse of Sieg-
fried before the door. Hagen is declared to be
the murderer, because on his entrance the
wounds bleed afresh. The Fourth room is the
Chamber of Revenge. It represents the ex-
termination of this heroic race, through the
bloody revenge of Chriemhild. She reproaches
Hagen with his treason. She burns the palace.
Dietrich engages Hagen. Chriemhild kills
Hagen, and is herself slain by Hildebrand.
The Fifth room is the Chamber of Lamen-
tations. The surviving actors in the drama
mourn over the fatal events, and relate them
to the Bishop of Passau.

The Hof-garten, or Garden of the Court, is
situated on the north of the Residenz. It is
ornamented with frescoes and arcades. It
contains bazaars, museums of works of art,
cafes, shops, and dining and supper-rooms
bordering its sides. The frescoes represent the
most important events in the history of the
reigning house of Wittelsbach. The museum
on the north- side of the garden contains
Chinese, Egyptian, Roman, and Indian an-
tiquities well worthy of notice. In the summer-
months a Military band plays, and all the
world attends.

The Pinacothek, or Picture-gallery, is open
daily except on Saturday. It is an immense
building, in the style of a Roman Palace, and
from every point of view has a superb effect.
The principal facade is ornamented with
twenty-four statues of the most celebrated
painters, modelled by Schwanthaler. The in-
terior presents one of the finest art-galleries
226

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

of Europe, containing in nine halls and
twenty-three cabinets, thirteen hundred Paint-
ings at least.

The First Hall contains paintings of the old
German school, from its foundation to the
middle of the Sixteenth century.

The Second Hall contains paintings partly
of the old, and partly of the later, German
schools.

The Third Hall contains paintings of the
Ketherland school to the end of the Seventeenth
century.

The Fourth Hall contains ninety-five paint-
ings by Rubens. Note the celebrated large
picture of " the Last Judgment," 20 by 14 feet.

The Fifth Hall contains gems of the Dutch
school, and many portraits by Rembrandt.

The Sixth Hall tontains paintings by
Murillo, Horace Vernet, Claude Lorraine, and
Poussin.

The Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth Halls con-
tain gems of the Italian schools. In the
Seventh, Correggio, Guercino. Carlo Dolce,
etc. In the Eighth, Paul Veronese, and
Guido. In the Ninth, Raffaelle.

The first Six of the Cabinets contain Paint-
ings from the schools of the Lower Rhine.
In the First and Second Cabinets, works by
William of Cologne and Israel van Mekenen.
In the Third, Fourth, and Fifth Cabinets,
works by the Van Eycks, Hemling, and
Schoreel. In the Sixth Cabinet, works by
Heemskerk. In the Seventh Cabinet, works
by Albert Diirer, and the Upper German
school. In the Eighth Cabinet, works by Albert
Diirer, Altdorfer, Denner, and the Netherland
school. In the Ninth, Tenth, and Eleventh
Cabinets, works by Teniers, Rembrandt, and
Brouwer. In the Twelfth Cabinet, works by
Rubens. In the Thirteenth Cabinet, works by
Van Dyck and Gerard Dow. In the Four-
teenth and Fifteenth Cabinets, works by the
Netherland school. In the Sixteenth Cabinet,
works by Adrian van der Werff, only.

The Cabinet of Designs contains nine thou-
sand original drawings of Raffaelle, Correggio,
Michael Angelo, Fra Bartolommeo, Giulio
Romano, Mantegna, Holbein, Albert Diirer,
Rembrandt, and other masters of note.

Ihe Cabinet of Grecian and Etruscan Vases
occupies five saloons, the walls covered with
paintings copied from ancient designs found
in the old Etruscan tombs, representing
funeral rites, marriages, festivals, etc.

The New Pinacothek is intended for the
works of modern painters only. It contains
227

52 rooms. The outside is decorated with
colossal frescoes by Nilson, after designs by
Kaulbach. At the entry is the Colossal model
of Bavaria in Triumphal Car drawn by four
lions. In the First room a large Malachite
vase, a present from the Emperor Nicholas of
Russia. In the Second room, amongst the
most famous Paintings are Schoreel's grand
painting of the "Deluge," unfinished; Kaul-
bach's "Destruction of Jerusalem ;" Piloty's
" The astronomer Seni by the dead body of
Wallenstein ; " and Achenbach's " Storm at
Sea." There are twenty smaller Rooms,
many having the walls painted by Kaulbach,
which afforded the designs to Nilson for the
large frescoes which adorn the outside of the
Pinacothek. The chief subjects are King
Ludwig surrounded by Artists ; Artists of
modern Rome ; Artists receiving Orders from
the King ; Artists executing the Ideas of the
King; Fete of the Arts, and crowning of
the statue of the King ; Allegorical figures
of Architecture, Sculpture, Bronze-casting,
Painting on Glass, Painting on Porcelain, etc.
etc. ; the Royal Foundry in operation ; and
Presentation of the Artists' Album to the
King. Between the windows are fourteen
colossal Portraits of the greatest Artiste of
modern days.

The Glyptothek, or Sculpture- gallery, is open
Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, from
8 till 12, and from 2 till 4 o'clock. It is of the
Ionic order, and is externally one of the most
chaste and beautiful buildings in Munich.
The decorations of the interior are exquisite.
The sculptures are arranged chronologically.
The whole collection occupies 12 rooms.
Each room is dedicated to an epoch. The
First room contains Egyptian antiquities. The
Second room contains Greek and Etruscan
remains. The Third room contains the
marbles of the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius,
at ^Egina, the most valuable of the ancient
sculptures. The Fourth room, illustrating the
School of Phidias, contains the Apollo Citha-
raedus, or " the Apollo of the Harp," formerly
called the Barberini Muse. The Fifth room
contains the Faun of either Scopas or Praxi-
teles. The Sixth room contains Niobe. The
Seventh and Eighth rooms are frescoed by
Cornelius and his pupils, and illustrate the
Homeric history and destruction of Troy. The
Ninth room contains statues of Heroes. The
Tenth room, the largest and most splendid of
all, contains the most precious works of old
Roman art, sarcophaguses, altars, busts>
228

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

reliefs, &c. The Twelfth room contains
Modern works, amongst which many of Thor-
waldsen and Canova.

The Propyl&on is a modern building of the
Doric order. This and the other two buildings
in the same square represent severally the
Doric, Ionic, and Corinthians orders of archi-
tecture. The frieze was executed by Schwan-
thaler, a splendid composition, this sculptor's
master-piece.

Wimmer and Co.'s Collection is the largest
establishment of Works of Art on sale in
Germany.

Paintings on Porcelain, copies in oil of the
best paintings in the Munich galleries, are a
local specialite.

The Museum Schwanthaler. This great
sculptor died at the early age of 47, and here
may be seen what he accomplished in so short
a life. Here are the models of the master-
pieces which were executed in marble and
bronze during his brief career.

The Public Library is the largest but one
(Paris) in the world. It contains 800,000
volumes, 23,000 MSS., 300,000 engravings, and
10,000 Greek and Roman coins. The Bible
of Luther, which preserves his own and Melanc-
thon's portraits, is famous.

The bronze Statue of Bavaria, modelled by
Schwanthaler, cast at the Royal Foundry,
gigantic, and one of the most elaborate in the
world, stands outside the city. It is placed
on a granite pedestal 30 feet high, the top of
which is reached by forty-nine steps. The
statue itself is 66 feet high, and took seventy-
eight tons of metal for the casting. One door
leads to the top of the pedestal and another to
the inside of the head, where eight persons
can, it is said, comfortably (?) sit at one time.
Ladies sometimes ascend into the head in
summer, when the great heat of the bronze
makes them faint ; to restore them here is
impossible; and their extrication is not very
expeditious under these circumstances.

The Sieges-thor, or Gate of Victory, is
situated at the end of the Ludwigsstrasse. It
is built after the model of Constantine's
Triumphal arch at Rome. At the other end
of this fine street, is

The Fddherrn-halle, or Hall of the Mar-
shals.

The Cathedral, or Frauen-kirche, was
founded in the Thirteenth century. Its most
remarkable monument is the tomb of the
Emperor Ludwig.

Micliaelshof-kirche, the Jesuits' Church,
229

contains Thorwaldsen's monument to Eugene
Beauharnais, once viceroy of Italy.

The Basilica of St. Bonifacius was com-
menced in 1835 to commemorate the twenty-
fifth anniversary of the marriage, or silver wed-
ding-day, of the King Ludwig. It was con-
secrated in November, 1850. The walls are
finely frescoed by Hess and his scholars, the
frescoes exhibiting a depth and freshness of
colouring which oil-painting has not yet
attained. These are amongst the most beauti-
ful developments of modern art.

The Ludwigs-Ttirche, or Church of St. Louis.
The frescoes of the interior were designed by
Cornelius. His great fresco of the " Last
Judgment " was designed by him in Rome
in the year 1835, and painted here by himself
in the years 1836, 1837, and 1838. It is grand,
beautiful, and colossal, being 63 feet high and
39 feet broad.

The English Garden is four miles long, a
delightful promenade.

BATISBON.

From Munich, by railway, in 3 hours.

Ratisbon, in German Regensburg, has a
population of 30,000. It is beautifully situated
on the Danube, and the river Regen, whence
its name.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral St. Peter, a splendid sample
of architecture and sculpture, commenced in
the year 1275, finished in the early part of the
Seventeenth century. The fine stained-glass
windows are modern.

The Asses-Tower commands a magnificent
view of the Alps, the Danube, and the
Walhalla.

THE WALHALLA

is the great object of comers to Ratisbon.
To visit it will occupy a day. An omnibus
leaves Ratisbon twice-a-day ; fare, to go and
return, 24 kreutz; one-horse carriage, 3 florins ;
two-horse carriage, 4 florins.

The Walhalla, or Temple of Fame, lies six
miles to the east of Ratisbon. It is situated
on a hill 300 feet high, rising above the bed
of the Danube. It is visible from a great
distance. It was erected by the late King of
Bavaria, to contain the statues and busts of
the most distinguished men of Germany. It
is copied from the Pantheon of Athens. Its
length is 218 feet, breadth 102 feet, and height
60 feet. All tourists unite in avowing the
impression created by the view of this
magnificent Art-Temple to be profound.
230

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

NTJRNBERG.

From Ratisbon, by railway, in 2\ hours.

Xiirnberg, or Nuremberg, has a population
of 85,000. It is beautifully situated on the
river Pegnitz. It was in the Middle-ages
one of the richest cities of Europe. It still
retains much evidence of its former prosperity.
It is celebrated for its Manufacture of toys.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Lawrence. Note its
magnificent porch, its sculptures representing
the Last Judgment. The interior is rich in
wood-carving, and stained glass. The im-
mense stone called Sacramentshauslein (a
Sanctuary where the consecrated elements are
kept), 65 feet high and of exquisitely finished
work, is unique.

The Church of St. Sebald is one of the
finest in Germany.

The Town-Hall contains paintings by
Albert Diirer, who lived at Niirnberg.

The House of Hans Sachs is famous.

BAIREUTH.

Famous for Wagner's National Theatre of
Germany, where his great operas, including
the " Ring of the Nibelungs," founded on the
national " Nibelungen-lied," have been per-
formed in 1876, maybe visited from Niirnberg.
It has a population of 20,000.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN

may be reached by railway direct from Niirn-
berg, in 5^ hours.

ULM.

From Munich, by Augsburgh, railway
in 3 hours.

Ulm has a population of 25,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Minster, a fine Gothic.

The Town-Hall, a relic of the past.

STUTTGART.
From Ulm, by railway, in 2 hours.

Stuttgart has a population of 95.000. It is
the capital of Wiirttemberg. It is a favourite
place of residence for English and Americans.
It is dear. There are many good pensions.
Furnished apartments are very scarce. En-
quirers sometimes find a family wishing to
dispose of, or let, a flat and furniture. It is
usual to take an etage, and either hire or buy
one's own furniture. Furniture is cheap. An
unfurnished etage of six rooms in a good
231

situation would cost about ^50 a-year. Dress,
food, and education are reasonable. It is an
exceedingly healthy place ; and, lying in a
valley, its winter is not nearly so severe as in
most other towns of Germany, the cold being
clear, bright, and agreeable, not unsuitable to
children.

Stuttgart possesses

English Church.

English Charge d' affaires.

United States' Consul.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Schloss, royal residence, 365 rooms
highly furnished, frescoed, and statues by
Canova, Thorwaldsen, and others.

Museums of Natural History, Painting,
and Sculpture.

The Library is famous for its Bibles in
sixty different languages.

The Anlage. Delightful gardens and
promenade.

FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN

may be reached by railway from Stuttgart
in 5 hours.

CONSTANZ.

From Stuttgart, by railway, in 5 hours.

Constanz has a population of 12,000. It is
an ancient city. It is situated on the Swiss
side of the lake which bears its name, but it
belongs to the Grand Duchy of Baden.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, Minster, a fine Gothic
structure, founded in the year 1048 ; rebuilt
at the commencement of the Sixteenth cen-
tury. It was in this cathedral that John Huss
was condemned to death for preaching the
Reformation in 1415. The place is pointed
out where he stood when receiving sentence.
The bas-reliefs above the doors of the prin-
cipal entrance represent Scenes from the life of
the Saviour.

The ancient Convent of Dominicans,
situated on a small island connected with the
town by a bridge, was the place of confine-
ment of Huss.

The Conciliums-saal is particularly interest-
ing. It was the place of meeting of the
famous Council of Constance. It met here to
vindicate the authority of General Councils, to
which the Popes were to be amenable. The
Council deposed three Popes, John XXII.,
Gregory II., and Benedict X., and elected
Pope Martin V., thus settling variances that
232

THE GERMAN EMPIRE.

had disturbed the Papacy for forty years. The
Council consisted of Emperors, Popes, Car-
dinals, Archbishops, Bishops, and assembled
a hundred thousand people. Its sittings con-
tinued for four years, from 1414 to 1418.

The House in which Huss lodged contains
a likeness of him in relief on the outer wall.

The -place of Huss's Martyrdom is a short
distance from the city.

THE LAKE OF CONSTANZ,

or the Boden-see, is the largest of all the
German Lakes, being thirty-five miles long,
and eight miles wide. At its greatest depth
it is a thousand feet. The Rhine enters it at

the south-east, and issues from it at the
north-west. The principal points, served by
steamers are

Lindau for Munich. (Rail in 7 hours.)

Bregenz for the Tyrol. (Rail to Feldkirch
in i^ hour.)

Friedrichshafen for Stuttgart. (Rail in 5|
hours.)

Rorschach for Ragatz, Switzerland. (Rail
in 3 hours.)

Romanshorn for Ziirich, Switzerland.
(Rail in 2 1 hours.)

From Constance to Schafthausen and BSle is
continued under the heading of
" SWITZERLAND."

233

23*

THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

The Austro-Hungarian Empire consists of
Austria proper, with Hungary and Poland.

Austria ceased to be connected with Ger-
many after the war of 1866. It is divided into
19 Governments, and the population may be
taken at Thirty-six millions.

Outlined Tours. Continuing our "General
Continental Tour," from Dresden in Germany,
our route embraces Prague, Vienna, the Aus-
trian Danube, Southern Austria to Trieste, and
the Tyrol en route to Italy.

PRAGUE.

From Dresden, Germany, railway in 5 hours.

Prague, in German Prag, has a population
of 200,000. It is situated on the river Moldau ,
in a basin quite girt by heights, on the
slopes of which rise buildings tier upon
tier, receding from the river's brink. The
quaint city's peculiar architecture, domes,
spires, and turrets give it quite an Oriental
appearance. Its Manufactures are cotton,
linen, silk, woolJen, hats, earthenware, and
sugar. The salient quarters of the city are the
Hradschin, Kleinsite, Altstadt, and Neustadt.
The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Hradschin, or ' ' steep hill." It contains
The Palace, which was formerly the resi.
dence of the Kings of Bohemia. It is an
immense pile of masonry, rather remarkable
for extent than for beauty.

Two Obelisks mark where Two Imperial
Commissioners, attempting to enforce in-
tolerant edicts against the Bohemian Pro-
testants in 1618, were thrown out of the win-
dows of this palace by the Deputies of the
kingdom, which was the commencement of
the Thirty-Years' War, which secured the
liberties of Protestant Germany, and ended in
the Peace of Westphalia in the year 1648.

The Cathedral, St. Vitus, is within the
Hradschin. It was begun in 1340, and
finished in 1486. It is most interesting, a com-
plete museum of curiosities. Note the
gorgeous silver shrine, weighing nearly 4,000
Ibs. In this, encased in a silver and crystal
coffin, is the body of the famous St. John of
Nepomuk of whom hereafter. Round this

235

shrine silver lamps are continually burning.
Note also the Choir, built by Charles IV. ; the
chapels that surround it and the monument
erected by Rodolph II., as a tomb for him-
self and other Bohemian Kings, of white
marble, beautifully sculptured. Over the
high-altar is a picture of " St. Luke painting
the Virgin," long attributed to Holbein, now
alleged to be the work of Bernard Von Orlay.
At this altar the Emperors of Austria have been
consecrated and crowned Kings of Bohemia.
The Schatz-kammer contains many curious
relics, among which are alleged bones of
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, a piece of the
True Cross, a thorn from the dying Saviour's
Crown, one of the Palm-branches over which
he rode into Jerusalem, the pocket-hander-
chief of the Virgin, etc.

The National Museum contains many reli-
ques of the Reformer Huss. Note the auto-
graph of his challenge, wbich was formerly
affixed on the gate of the University of Prague,
to all comers to dispute with him on the
articles of his belief. This celebrated man.
John, (properly of Hussinecz), was born at
Hussinecz, in Bohemia, in the year 13/6;
was educated at Prague, and became rector of
this University. He was summoned to Con-
stanz to render an account of his doctrines.
He suffered martyrdom there with heroic
courage, in the year 1415. This commenced
the famous Hussite war. The Hussites placed
at their head John Trocznow, named Ziska,
"one-eyed," from having lost an eye in battle.
He took the city of Prague, and refused to
recognize Sigismund as King of Bohemia. He
is said to have ordered a drum to be made out
of his skin to frighten his enemies still after
his death. The Hussites carried their blind
zeal to the extent of destroying nearly all the
sculpture and ornaments of the different
churches, defacing the frescoes, and so reducing
to the existing uninteresting state the ancient
churches of Prague.

The Czernin Palace is in the Hradschin.

The Loretto Chapel is a fac-simile of the
erratic House at Loretto in Italy. It is
considered the holiest place in all Prague, and
pilgrimages are made to it from all parts of
Europe.

236

THE AUSTRO-HinSTGARLAJST EMPIRE.

The Kleinsite, at the foot of the Hradschin,
contains

The Palace of Wallenstein, hero of the
Thirty-Years' War. It was found necessary,
when this palace was built, to pull down a
hundred houses to make room for it.

Behind the Hradschin are the heights of the
Laurenziberg, where in ancient times were
celebrated the rites of the Worship of Fire,

Connecting the Kleinsite with the Altstadt
is

The Famous Stone-bridge. It was begun
in the Fourteenth and finished in the Sixteenth
century. It is 1850 feet in length and is
ornamented with twenty-eight statues of
Saints. It has a lofty tower at each end.
Near the centre is the bronze statue of St.
John of Nepomuk, who was drowned in the
Moldau by command of the King Wenceslas
in the year 1383, because he declined betray-
ing the secrets which the Queen had entrusted
to him under the seal of confession. In con-
sequence of this death, this St. John has risen
into the dignity of Patron- Saint of All Bridges
in Roman Catholic countries. He was canon-
ized just four centuries after.

The Altstadt and Neustadt contain

The Rath-haus, and the square in which it
stands, of historic interest, from the many re-
markable events that have here transpired.
Here during the Hussite trouble in the Seven-
teenth century, the Mob entered the council-
chamber, and threw certain Councillors out of
the windows. Sixty years later the Mob again
entered it, and threw certain Magistrates out
of window in the same style.

The University, or Carolinum, was the first
great public Educational college established
in the whole of ancient Germany. It con-
tained at one time 40,000 students, com-
posed of Bohemians, Austrians, Poles, Saxons,
Bavarians, and other German nationalities.

The Theen-Kirche contains the tomb of
Tycho Brahe, the great astronomer. Here
also the heads and hands of the Protestant
leaders, stuck upon the gate-tower of the
bridge after the discomfiture of the Protestants
at the battle of the White-hill in the year 1621,
were buried after being taken down.

The Sophien Insel is frequented by the
higher classes principally for recreation.

The Gross- Venedig Insel is the favourite
place of resort for the lower classes.

The Battle of Prague was fought at a short
distance from the city, resulting in victory to
Frederic the Great, one of the leading issues
of the Seven- Years' War.

237

VIENNA.
From Prague, by railway, in 8^ hours.

Vienna, the Kaiserstadt, the Capital of the
Empire, and of Austria proper, has a popu-
lation of 850,000. It is situated on a plain
500 feet above the level of the sea, but little
above the level of the Danube, near whose
southern bank it is placed.

Its Manufactures are velvet, silk, cotton,
cloth, cutlery, bronze, and meerschaum-pipes
on a very large scale ; pipes may be bought.
here cheaper than at any other place in,
Europe.

Carriages. There are three kinds of car-
riages for hire ; the first, is the stadtlohn-wa-
gen, job or private carriages, which alone have
the privilege of entering into the court-yards
of private houses ; all other vehicles must set
down in the street. The second is the fiaker,
which has no fixed price, and for which a bar-
gain should be made. The third is the com-
mon cab, with fixed tariff.

Historically. Vienna has been the scene
of many interesting events. The most mem-
orable, and that which most largely touched
the interests of Christendom, was its siege in
the year 1683 by the Turks, 200,000 strong,,
under the command of Kara Mustapha ; when
it was saved from surrender only by the arrival
of John Sobieski, the heroic king of Poland,
who defeated the besiegers with great slaughter
under the very walls of the city. In the year
1805 it submitted to the conquering arms of
the First Napoleon. It again submitted to
France, after a short resistance, in the year
1809.

Structurally. It is of nearly circular form.
The old city, or city proper, is three miles-
round. It was formerly enclosed by fortifica-
tions, which more recently have been converted
into a public promenade called the Bastei.
Beyond this extend the suburbs, about fifteen
miles in circumference.

The Public Promenades are fine and numer-
ous. In addition to the Bastei, Vienna pos-
sesses the Prater, the Au-garten, Volks-garten,
Burg-garten, Stadt-park, Botanischer-garten,
etc.

The Prater is the favourite place of resort
of all classes of the motley population the
Hyde-park, the Bois de Boulogne, of Vienna ,
crowded daily with all kinds of equipages and
people.

The Buildings preserve much of antique
grandeur. The older parts of the city form the
most fashionable quarters, and contain most

238

THE AUSTRO-HTJNGARIAN EMPIRE.

of the objects of interest to the Tourist, viz.,
the Imperial Palace, the Palaces of the
Princes Esterhazy, Lichtenstein, Metternich,
Schwarzenberg, and Auersberg, the principal
churches, museums, libraries, and public in-
stitutions.

Socially. There is no city in Europe that
has so large a number of resident nobility as
Vienna. There are upwards of 200 families
of princes and nobles resident the greater

length is 350 feet, its breadth 220 feet, its spire
450 feet. It's bell weighs 358 cwt., and was
made of 180 pieces of cannon taken from the
Turks in 1683. Halfway up the tower is the
Watch-station of the city. Here a watchman
waits with a telescope so arranged that, when
he sees a fire, he can discover by reference to
the chart of the city, in what street and actually
at what number it is, and he immediately
telegraphs information to the fire office. The

portion of the year. Amusement is the pro-
minent object of this pleasure-seeking popula-
tion. A love of music is general among all
classes. Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, and
other great masters have composed their best
works at or near Vienna.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral of St. Stephen. It stands
in the centre of the city, and from it radiate
nearly all the streets both of the city and of the
suburbs. It is an elegant Gothic, imposing,rival-
ling in size and richness of architecture the
finest cathedrals of other countries. Its

23Q

view from the top is magnificent, commanding
the Battle-fields of Wagram, Lobau, and
Essling, the suburbs of the city, and the
winding of the Danube. The interior of the
Cathedral is rich in sculpture and stained
glass. Note particularly the gorgeous chapel
of the Lichtenstein family, the monument of
Prince Eugene, and that of the Emperor
Frederick II., decorated with 240 figures,
and representations of forty coats of arms, the
sceptre in the hand of the Imperial effigy,
bearing the vowels which formed the imperial
motto, A, E, I, O, U, Austria Est Imperare
240

THE ATJSTRO-HUNaARIAN EMPIRE.

Orbi Universe, (Austria is to rule the whole
world.) The crypt of St. Stephen's has been the
burial-place of the Imperial family for many
centuries ; but for the last 200 years only the
intestines have been interred here, the bodies
being deposited in the Church of the Capu-
cines, and the hearts in the Church of the
Augustines.

The Church of the Augustines is one of the
handsomest in Vienna. It contains one of the
finest works of Canova, the monument of the
Archduchess Christine, a pyramid of marble
30 feet high, in the centre of which is a door,
representing the entrance to a vault, reached
by two broad steps which form the base of
the pyramid, and ascending which are figures
representing Virtue, bearing an urn containing
the ashes of the deceased ; by her side two
little girls carrying torches ; behind them the
figure of Benevolence supporting an Old man,
bowed down by age and grief, and a little
child accompanying him, a picture of innocence
and sorrow, the genius of Mourning sitting
opposite, and at his feet crouching the
Winged Lion of Venice most melancholy.
The Loretto Chapel contains the Silver Urns
in which are preserved the hearts of the
Imperial family, conspicuous among which
are those of Maria Theresa, and the young
ill-fated son of Napoleon I., the Due de
Reichstadt.

The Church of the Capucines contains the
vault where rest finally the bodies of the
Imperial family. This vault is always shown
by torch-light. The coffin of the only son of
the great First Napoleon is noticeable. The
romance connected with his life and death
makes this an object of universal attraction.
It is of copper with a raised cross. Note also
the coffin of his Grand-father, the Emperor
Francis I., who was passionately fond of the
youth, and desired to be laid beside him after
death. The coffin of Joseph I. is of pure
silver. Also note those of Joseph II., his
father Francis, and his mother Maria Theresa,
who every day for thirteen years entered into
this mausoleum to mourn for her husband till
death laid her at last continually by his side.
There are more than eighty coffins in this
narrow house of royalty, with only one intruder
in unadorned coffin the early instructress
of the Empress Maria Theresa, the Countess
Fuchs, who lies here by the special request
of her Imperial Pupil.

The Carmelite Church has some fine stained-
glass.

241

The Church of St. Charles Borromeo is a
splendid building in the Byzantine style.

The Imperial Palace is a confused mass of
buildings. It is of vast extent. Attached to
it are the Imperial Library, the Imperial
Cabinets of Antiquities, of Minerals, of
Natural History, Zoology, and Botany, the
Imperial Jewel-office, the Imperial Coach-
house and Riding-school, etc.

The Palace of the Archduke Albert is a fine
structure. It contains one of the rarest collec-
tions of Engravings and Drawings in Europe,
amounting to nearly 200,000, amongst which
above a 100 sketches are by Raffaelle, includ-
ing a design for his grand painting of the
Transfiguration, the figures all drawn naked
for the purpose of verifying the anatomy of
each. There are many sketches also of
Michael Angelo ; including the figures for his
great Last Judgment. The gallery is open
on Monday and Thursday, from 9 till 12
o'clock.

The Imperial Library is a handsome build-
ing situated on the Josephs-platz. It contains
350,000 volumes, and 16,000 manuscripts.
The grand hall, a splendid apartment, 240 feet
long, 50 feet wide, and 60 feet high, contains
a statue of Charles VI., the founder of the
library. Worthy of special note are the
psalm-book of Charlemagne, gold-lettered,
the M.S. of Tasso's "Jerusalem delivered,"
and a military map of the Roman empire in
the Fourth century.

The Cabinet of Antiquities contains many
valuable specimens, 125,000 coins and medals,
50,000 of which are Greek and Roman, the
celebrated salt-cellar carved by Benvenuto
Cellini for Francis I., formerly in the Ambras
museum, with several other works of this
celebrated carver's cunning hand, amongst
which also note his Leda and the Swan. The
finest cameo in the world is in this collection,
about 26 inches in circumference ; its work-
manship considered the perfection of art,
representing the Apotheosis of Augustus.
The Antiquities are open on Monday and
Friday. Tickets of admission must be pro-
cured the day previous.

The Cabinet of Minerals, open on Wednes-
day and Saturday, contains a large collection
of Meteoric Stones which have fallen from the
sky in different parts of the world. The
bouquet of flowers, made in precious stones
for the Empress Maria Theresa, is famous.
There are precious specimens of diamonds,
crystals, and fossils.

The Museum of Natural History, Zoology,
242

THE AUSTBO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

and Botany is one of the finest in Europe.
The Birds are especially complete. Amongst
monstrous curiosities are a great Goose with
four legs, a Pigeon with an equal number, a
Horse with wool for hair, and a horned
O\vl. This museum is open only on Thurs-
day.

The Prince Eugene's Collection of Engrav-
ings numbers nearly 300,000. There are many
volumes of the drawings of Raffaelle, Rem-
brandt, Vandyck, Rubens, Albert Diirer, and
other great masters.

The Schatz-kammer, Imperial Jewel- Office,
open Friday and Saturday. The articles con-
tained in these chambers are rare, beautiful,
and of untold value. Among these are the
Diamond, weighing 133 carats, which was lost
by Charles the Bold on the fatal battle-field of
Grandson, found by a Swiss soldier, and sold
by him for two crowns ; and an Emerald
weighing 2980 carats. Here are also kept the
regalia of Charlemagne, rifled from his vault
at Aix-la-Chapelle, and used for many cen-
turies at the Coronation of the German Em-
perors ; the robes, crown, and sceptre used by
the First Napoleon when he was crowned
King of Lombardy at Milan ; the silver cradle
for his son, the Due de Reichstadt, as King
of Rome, which was presented to him by the
Citizens of Paris ; the table-cloth alleged to
have been used at the Last Supper at
Jerusalem ; a tooth of St. John the Baptist ; a
piece of the True cross ; an arm-bone of St.
Anne, etc.

The Imperial Coach-house, in which are
kept the State-carriages.

The Imperial Riding- School.

The Volks-garten and Hof-garten, fronting
the palace, handsomely laid out, are in the
summer-season the resort of the citizens.
Twice-a-week, in the latter, a first-rate band
plays, on which occasion the garden is crowded
by the Great World of Vienna.

The Imperial Picture-Gallery, Upper Belve-
dere, is one of the very finest on the Continent.
It is open on Tuesday and Friday free, by
fee on other days. This palace itself, with its
rich flower-garden, is one of the first " sights "
of the capital, and the view of the city and
suburbs from the second story is admir-
able.

A grand marble saloon forms the entrance
to the gallery. It is beautifully frescoed. Its
portraits of Joseph II. and Maria Theresa are
considered their best likenesses extant. On
the first story, seven rooms are devoted to the
Italian and Spanish schools ; nine rooms are

243

devoted to the Dutch and Flemish schools.
On the second story, four rooms are devoted
to the early German, Flemish, and Dutch
schools. Many rooms of entirely modern
German paintings, not described in the
General Catalogue, as they are continually in-
creasing ; they are described in a Special
Catalogue. Among the principal paintings
are the Saviour at the house of Simon the
Leper, with Mary Magdalen at His feet, by
the school of Titian ; the Annunciation of the
Virgin, Mars and Venus, Judith with the head
of Holofernes, and a Holy Family, with St.
Catherine and St. Barbara, by Paul Veronese ;
Apollo and the Muses, by Tintoretto ; and
Venus and Adonis, by the scholars of Titian ;
the famous Ecce Homo of Titian, which for-
merly belonged to Charles I. of England, and
was sold by Oliver Cromwell, contains Titian's
own portrait and those of celebrated persons
of that time, the Emperor Charles V., the
Sultan Solyman, etc. In Raffaelle's Madonna
of the Meadow, the Virgin's robe bears the
date 1506. Fiiger's allegorical painting of
the Peace of 1814, is magnificent. There are
several fine subjects by Carlo Dolce ; a large
number by Guido. St. John, a child, with his
lamb, by Murillo. Many Portraits by Rem-
brandt, Vandyck, De Grayer, etc. Whole
chambers are filled with Rubens' paintings,
amongst the principal of which are Christ
Casting out Devils ; the Assumption of the
Virgin; St. Francis Xavier Preaching and
Performing Miracles amongst the Indians ;
St. Ambrose refusing the Emperor Theodosius
admission into the Church of St. Ambrogio
at Milan ; Mary and Martha ; the Feast of
Venus, a statue of the goddess surrounded by
Satyrs, Nymphs, and Cupids, dancing, the
sacrifice burning before the statue ; Helena
Forman, Rubens' own (second) wife entering
a bath, partly covered with a wrapper. Ii*
the Green Chamber are the magnificent Water -
Doctor by Gerard Dow, and the heads of an
Old Man and Old Woman, most remarkable
for the skill with which the hair and wrinkles
are painted by Balthasar Douner. Other
rooms are filled with the works of Teniers
the younger ; of Albert Diirer, whose best
works are preserved in this collection, special
amongst which is his Holy Trinity ; num-
bers of Portraits by Holbein the younger.
Nine rooms on the ground floor are de-
voted to the Italian, Flemish, and Dutch
masters.

The Lower Belvedere, at the other extremity
of the garden, contains the famous Ambras
244

THE AUSTRO-HUNGABIAN EMPIRE.

Collection of armour, so called from having
been brought from the Castle of Ambras, in
the Tyrol, collected there by the Archduke
Ferdinand, son of the Emperor Ferdinand I.
It is the most authentic historical armoury in the
world, the Archduke having himself solicited
from all the sovereigns of Europe samples of the
suits of armour of the Fourteenth, Fifteenth,
and Sixteenth centuries. There are three
apartnents, all filled. Most noticeable in the
collection are the armour of Don John of
Austria, Philip II. of Spain, the Emperor
Maximilian, Maurice of Saxony, Alexander
Farnese, Duke of Parma, and Albert the
Bear, Elector of Brandenburg. The gallery is
open free on Tuesday and Friday ; at other
times a fee will secure admission. A catalogue
can be obtained at the door.

The Esterhazy Summer- Palace contains
paintings of note by Murillo, RafFaelle, Paul
Potter, Rubens, Tintoretto, Leonardo da Vinci,
Domenichino, Rembrandt, and others. It is
the finest collection in Europe of the Spanish
school, except that of Spain itself. Also a
fine collection of engravings, and a sculpture
gallery, with specimens of Thorwaldsen, Ca-
nova, etc., are here.

The Summer-Palace of Prince Lichtenslein
is open daily from 9 till 12, and from 3 till 6
o'clock. In this collection are paintings by
RafFaelle, Correggio, Titian, Guido, Domeni-
chino, Giorgione, Vandyck, Gerard Dow, etc.
The grounds around this palace are very
beautifully laid out.

The Picture- Gallerv of Count Czernin
contains a small but very choice collection of
paintings.

The Imperial Arsenal contains barracks
capable of holding 10,000 men, with every-
thing necessary for the maintenance of an en-
tire army. Here are 200,000 stand of arms
always ready for use. Its collection of arms
and armour is one of the finest. Open on
Thursday from 8 till II, and from 2 till 5
o'clock. Round the court-yard hangs the
monster chain with which the Turks barred the
Danube, in the year 1529, composed of 8000
links.

The University, founded in the year 1237,
is celebrated for its school of Medicine. It is
attended by a greater number of students than
any German University, except that of Berlin.
It possesses ninety Professors, who are paid
by Government, and not permitted to receive
fees.

The General Hospital is a vast building,
capable of lodging 3000 patients. It is built

245

in numerous quadrangles. It receives on the
average annually 30,000 patients.

The Lying-in Hospital is notorious. To
enter it as a patient, not even the name of the
applicant is demanded. She may enter veiled,
or masked, and remain incognito the whole
time she continues here, receiving every atten-
tion. None are permitted to see her, but the
physician or surgeon and nurse. When the
" confinement" is over, she may leave the hos-
pital without any person having the slightest
knowledge of who she is. She has only to
enclose her name in a sealed envelope, and
deposit it with the superintendent, that, in
case of death, her relatives may be advised of
the event. About 18,000 children are seen
to in this institution at once. A mother may
either take her child away, or leave it behind
in the hospital ; in the latter case she receives
a ticket, by which the child may be reclaimed
at any future time. If not taken away, the
boy, at a suitable age, is brought up to some
trade, or made a soldier of; the girl is made
nurse in an hospital. The mortality among
the children is great. The object of this in-
stitution is to prevent infanticide, but it is
believed to contribute also to the immorality
of the Viennese.

The Karnthnerthor Theatre presents Opera
and Ballet. The pieces are magnificently put
upon the stage. Only the very best performers
are engaged here.

The Hofburg Theatre is dedicated specially
to the performance of the Regular German
Drama.

The Karl Theatre is the really national
house. It is dedicated to Farce. It is patron-
ized by the middle and lower classes. The
national character is painted in the broadest
manner here, and should be seen.

The Environs of Vienna are famous. Those
unavoidable to be visited are

SCHONBRUNN.

This forms the favourite Summer-residence
of the Emperor. The First Napoleon's
son, the Due de Reichstadt, died here,
in the same bed that his own Father had
occupied in the year 1809. He was univer-
sally beloved by the people for his goodness
of heart, and was especial dear to his grand-
father the Emperor. He was kept watched
lest he might have become the prey of those
who wished to carry him for political purposes
back to France. Here the attempted assassi-
nation of the First Napoleon by the German
student Stapps, who was shot a few hours
246

THE AUSTRO -HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

afterwards, took place. The gardens are
lovely. At the extremity of one of the finest
avenues is the " Beautiful Fountain " or
ScJiun-lrtinn from which the palace derives
its name. The " Glorietta Temple," in the
rear, commands a charming view of the grounds
and of Vienna in the distance.

HEILZING.

Heilzing is at a short distance from Schon-
brunn. It is a lovely village. The church-
yard contains an exquisite monument by Can-
ova to the memory of the Baroness Pillersdorff.
There are Casino, cafe, restaurant, billiard-
room, and dancing-saloon admirably fitted up,
a famous place for Parties from Vienna, who
come here for suppers which are finely served.

SAXENBURG.

Saxenburg can be reached by rail. It was
the favourite Summer-residence of Maria
Theresa. A fine avenue of trees connects it
with Schon-brunn. The Palace is not worth
visiting, but the Garden and Park are. Famous
is the Franzenburg, or Rittersschloss, an
antique castle in the centre of a lake. Several
hours will be requisite to examine its antique
furniture, its wood- carvings and stone, and its
collection of armour. It is a museum of
antiquities and curiosities, containing even a
room which represents a chamber of torture,
and in its miniature dungeon a wooden prisoner
the whole imitating a feudal fortress of the
Middle- Ages. It has many authentic relics.

THE WARM SPRINGS OF BADEN.

The Emperor of Austria and many of the
Nobility have palaces here. During the sea-
son the town, which has its own population
of 6000, gains an extra population of 1 0,000.
The walks about the town are charming.
The valley of the Helenenthal, where every
one who can resorts after dinner, is delight-
ful.

The great feature of all the connexions of
Vienna is the Danube.

DOWN THE DANUBE FROM
VIENNA.

Conveyance. The Danube Steam Com-
pany's vessels, which have recently begun to
run, are in every respect of first-rate character.
The accommodations are excellent. There
are most comfortable and airy cabins. The
large room for company is upon the level of

247

the deck, and there is a deck to walk upon
above its poop, after the manner of the
American steamers. The fare is uncom-
monly good, not stinted ; breakfast, coffee,
tea, or chocolate from six till eight ; at eleven a
fresh breakfast, in fact, luncheon or dinner ;
at half-past four, dinner ; and tea at eight.

This navigation-company, which has been
really one of the most potent levers of im-
provement that could be applied to all the fair
and backward territories watered by the
Lower Danube, is largely indebted for its
promotion and progress to the energy and
public spirit of the unfortunate Count Szech-
enye.

Route. After emerging from the long low
lines of islands and brushwood which mark
the river below Vienna, the steamer passes
under the dismantled palace of Pressburg,
where the famous " Moriamur pro rege nostrd)
Maria Theresa ! " and the flashing of the
Hungarian swords answered the appeal of
the Queenly Beauty.

PRESSBTJRGK

Pressburg, or Presburg, has a population of
40,000. The Ancient Capital of the Hungarian
kingdom, it is prettily situated on the river's
banks. It contains little to interest the tourist.
About half-way between Pressburg andBuda,
on the north bank of the Danube, is

COMORN,

a strong and almost impregnable fortress,
which played so important a part during the
struggle for Hungarian independence in the
year 1849. It then resisted the whole force ot
the Austrian army. It is the boast of the
inhabitants of the town that it never yet
surrendered to an enemy.

Vineyards begin to swell above the banks,
and the steamer passes

GRAUN

the seat of the Primate of Hungary. A
stately modern Church of Italian architecture.

PEST.

Distant from Vienna 140 miles. Time, by

rail, 10 hours; by steamer, down, 12 hours.

The best way is to go down by steamer and

return by rail.

Pest, or Pesth, has a population of 300,000.
It forms, with Buda on the opposite side of
the Danube, the Modern Capital of Hungary
Proper, and the next city, in point of popula-
tion, to Vienna in the Austro-Hungarian Em-
248

THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

pire. It is beautifully placed on the great
river.

It has four Annual Fairs at which, it is said,
20,000 people are sometimes present. The
principal trade is in Hungarian wines and
raw-hides.

Travellers usually take a caleche, and drive
across the handsome

Suspension-bridge (built by Mr. Clark) up
to the fortress-terrace of Buda, which has
often poured its hot fierce volleys of shell and
grape on the town of Pest.

BTJDA.

Buda has a population of 50,000. It is an
ancient city, reared upon the lower slopes of a
range of picturesque hills. The town is com-
manded by the castle, a stern object.

77!*? View from Buda is famous. It over-
looks Pest on the opposite bank below, with
its white lines of streets and squares, the
broad brimming river, the wooded islands, the
far hills, and the steep rocks of Blochsberg
rising immediately above all. The situation
is most imposing. Neither of these great
towns has the picturesqueness of Prague, of
which, however, one is much reminded, as
well as of Edinburgh, especially in the con-
trast between the elder and more irregular
Buda, and the straight lines and broader
spaces of the younger Pest.

Beyond Pest-Buda the Danube proceeds
through a flat country. The eye meets occa-
sionally large herds of horses, sometimes grazing
on the grass in the midst of the water. It is
impossible not to feel, while looking over the
vast wastes of the Danubian plains, how Emi-
gration would find ample room among these
barely-cultivated apparently boundless breadths
of territory. Hills begin again to rise, and
the giant river to expand as the steamer passes
the ramparts of Peterwardein and the vine-
yards of Carlowitz, to the frontier-town of
Semlin, and the first minarets on the sloping
hill of

BELGRADE.

This city, and the rest of the course of the
Danube will be found undej the head of
" TURKEY^"

FROM VIENNA TO TRIESTE.
Distance 363 mile?, railway in 14^ hours.

The route runs through a beautiful country.
249

GRATZ.

Distance 140 miles from Vienna.

Gratz has a population of 90,000. The
women are distinguished for their remarkable
beauty. It is the chief city of Styria. Its
streets are quaint, narrow, dark, opening
occasionally into large irregular squares. It
has several churches.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral contains many marble monu-
ments.

The Johanneum, founded in the year 1811
by the Archduke John, whence its name, for
the encouragement of the Arts and Manu-
factures in Styria by the Collections, Lectures,
and Public Library it affords.

LAYBACH.

Laybach, the capital of Carniola, has a
population of 25.000. The city is built round
the Castle-hill, the castle serving for a state-
prison.

ADELSBERG.

Adelsberg is celebrated for its stalactite
grotto, one of the most magnificent in Europe.
To see it will occupy at least three hours.
Ladies should wrap themselves carefully, and
wear thick boots. A river flows through the
subterrene. It reaches an extensive cavern,
! and then plunges into the ground, and is seen
I no more. The caverns are supported by
I pillars, and are fretted with stalactite, all
j Nature's work, and, in places, so clustered
together, and so regularly arranged, as to re-
semble the interior of a Gothic Cathedral.
On Whit Monday a Popular Fete is held by the
peasantry in the most spacious of the caves.

TRIESTE.

Trieste, chief commercial city of the Austrian
Empire, has a population of 112,000. It is
situated on the Adriatic. Its population is
very Oriental in appearance, being derived
from all the commercial stations of the
j Mediterranean. Ship-building employs a large
proportion of the population.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Corso. The city is divided into the
Old and New Towns by this, the principal
street, on which are situated the best shops,

cafes, etc.

The Cathedral of San Giusto, in the Old
Town, stands on the hill near the castle. It is
supposed to occupy the site of an old Temple
of Jupiter. It is in the Byzantine style, and
dates from the Fourth century.
250

THE AUSTRO-HTJNGARIAN EMPIRE.

The Exchange, standing in the Exchange-
place, is a fine building.

The Casino contains the offices of the
Austrian Lloyd's, a bazaar, concert, and ball
rooms, reading-rooms, conversation-rooms,
and a club, all fitted up in superb style.

The Austrian Lloyd's steamers convey the
tourist from hence to all parts of the
Mediterranean ; starting every evening for
VENICE (see under heading of ITALY) at 12
o'clock, passage eight hours, arriving at
Venice, consequently, at 8 o'clock next morn-
ing. Steamers weekly for the Ionian Isles
and

GREECE,

To which latter heading refer for continuation
of the tour.

THE TYROL.

Brief advice to Tourists. The Tyrol is
Austrian, the neighbouring mountain-country
is Bavarian. Those enjoy the Tyrol who seek
delightful bracing air, beautiful mountain
scenery, lakes, and rich vegetation ; no one
expects to find gaiety, or luxurious hotels ;
generally all is rough, clean, and simple ; good
food in many places, particularly good meat
and bread.

The climate of Northern Tyrol is often wet,
often fine. August and September are good
months for it. Southern Tyrol is hot in
summer. September and October are good
for the latter.

Guides are not generally requisite in the
Tyrol. The best guides may be obtained at
Innsbruck. The regular price is 2 florins per
day, and a pour-boire.

Vehicles. One may travel through the
Tyrol by vetturini ; the carriages are comfort-
able, and horses good. Better still, with one's
own carriage and post-horses.

The language spoken in North Tyrol is
German ; that in the South, Italian.

Locally noticeable. The uncertainty of life
is marked in all directions. Wherever a fatal
accident has happened, the memorial is raised
of a cross with a record of the event, and a
request to wayfarers to pray for the soul of
the departed.

There are Rails and Roads from Vienna
to Innsbruck, Munich to Innsbruck, over
the Brenner to Italy, down the Pusterthal,
etc. There are good roads and excellent
carriages and horses. Prices vary in towns
from 4 to 6 florins a-day; in the mountains,
from 3 to 4 florins.

251

Outlined Tour. From London by Ostend,
Brussels, Cologne, Frankfort, Munich, Vienna,
as already described. From thence by rail to
Innsbruck. There is also a beautiful route
from Munich, by rail, to Schaflach station;
then by carriage, passing Tegern-see to
Achen-see, which can be reached in a day
from Munich, a good place for excursions,
boating, lovely scenery, bracing air, hotels,
and pensions. Thence, two hours' drive, by
road, to Zenbach. From thence visit the
Zillerthal, or proceed, in one hour, by rail, to
Innsbruck. From Innsbruck, by rail, to
Botzen, diverging at Franzensfeste to see the
Pusterthal. Bruneck is a good resting-place.
Through the Dolomite district, coming out at
Botzen, is a long excursion. Further south,
Trent and Riva on the Lago di Garda. From
Botzen, return by carriage to Meran, and over
the Finstermunz to Innsbruck. From Inns-
bruck return to Munich by Mittenwald,
Walchen-see, Kochel-see, through beautiful
scenery to the station of Pensberg, from whence
it is two-and-a-half hours to Munich. There
are endless excursions to be made from all
these routes. From Munich by railway to
Vienna, or to Bregenz on the Lake of Con-
stanz, in either case rejoining thus our
"GENERAL CONTINENTAL TOUR."

FROM BREGENZ TO INNSBRUCK.

By railway past Feldkirch to Bludenz, thence
by road, allow 3 days.

BREGENZ.

Bregenz has a population of 3500. It is the
Austrian frontier.

FELDKIRCH.

Feldkirch has a population of 5000. Its
position forms a natural fortress, enclosed by
mountains. It was formerly the key to this
side of Austria. It is prettily situated on the
river 111.

LANDECK.

Landeck has a population of 2000. It is
surrounded by heights, which, with castles
and villas, appear very striking.

IMST.

Imst has a population of 2000. It is a fine
town, The houses are nearly all new. A
short distance from it is passed Brennbiichl, a
village where the King of Saxony was thrown
out of his carriage and died in the year
252

THE AUSTEO-HUNGABIAN EMPIRE.

The ruins of the Castle of Petersburg are
on the right, before arriving at the town of
Silz.

SILZ.

The monastery of Stains is seen on the
right after passing Silz.

Telfs, a small village, succeeds.

ZIRL.

Two miles beyond Zirl is

THE MARTINSWAND.

The Martinswand is a nearly perpendicular
mountain where the Emperor Maximilian,
when out hunting, coming too near the edge
of the precipice, missed his footing, and fell
some distance down. It was impossible for
him to extricate himself, nor could any one,
apparently, approach him. So the people
collected below, and mass was offered up for
his soul by the priest. When, lo ! an Angel
appeared, and carried him safe to the summit,
say the Towns-folk ; but Non-believers-in
miracle refer it to a Hunter, of rather doubtful
character too, who had fled to the mountains
to escape punishment for poaching, and knew
all about the locality.

INNSBRUCK.

Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol, has a
population of 25,000. It is situated on the
river Inn, and occupies one of the most
strikingly picturesque situations conceivable.
It is amongst mountains varying from six to
ten thousand feet in height.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Tomb of Maximilian /., in the Hof-
kirche, or Church of the Franciscans. It is a
splendid monument. On the sides of the
marble sarcophagus are twenty-four reliefs,
representing the chief events in the life of
this Emperor; they are most skilfully and
elaborately executed. Surrounding the monu-
ment are twenty-four bronze statues, repre-
senting various male and female members of
the House of Austria.

The Silver Chapel was erected by Ferdinand
II., as a mausoleum for himself and his wife,
Philippina Welser, of Augsburg, who was
famed for her beauty. Here also twenty-
three bronze statues represent various mem-
bers of the House of Austria.

The Monument of Andreas Hofer. His re-
mains were brought from Mantua in the year
1823, where he had been executed by order of
Napoleon I.

253

The Imperial Palace is imposing.

The Museum, open every day but Sunday
from 9 till 12, and from 3 till 5 o'clock, con-
tains paintings, sculptures, antiquities, designs,
relics, specimens of the produce and manu-
factures of the Tyrol, and mineral and fossil
remains.

The Arch of Triumph stands at the southern
extremity of the main street. It was erected
by the inhabitants of Innsbruck in the year
1765, in honour of the Emperor Francis I.
and the Empress Maria Theresa passing
through the town.

The Castle of Ambras can be reached in
less than an hour from Innsbruck. It is a
well preserved castle. Its age dates from the
Thirteenth century. The famous Ambras
Collection of antiquities, gathered here, were
removed to Vienna in the year 1806. The
view from the top is magnificent.

THE BRENNER PASS.

The Brenner is the oldest of the Alpine
routes. In the year 1867 the railway was
opened. The scenery is, perhaps, less impos-
ing than that of most of the other great Alpine
passes.

The most remarkable points of the route
are

Steinach. A new town, entirely rebuilt
since a conflagration in the year 1853.

Sterzing. An old town, situated on the
Sterzinger-Moos. The castles of Sprechen-
stein and Riefenstein.

Freienfeld. On the left are the ruins of
Wolfenstein, the strong-hold of the pass during
the Middle-Ages.

BRIXEN.

Brixen has a population of 6000. It has
been for nine centuries the See of an Arch-
bishop. The situation is beautiful.

Klausen. A town of a single street,
situated, as its name indicates, in a defile
between the river and the mountains.

BOTZEN.

Botzen has a population of 12,000. It is
finely situated at the confluence of the Telfer
and Eisach.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Streets with arcades, similar to those
of Padua, Bologna, Berne, etc.

The Parish Church dates from the Fifteenth
century. At the west-entrance note the two
Lions in red marble.

The Public Cemetery is interesting.

254

THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE.

TRENT.

Trent, or Trento, has a population of 16,000.
It is strikingly situated on the left bank of the
Adige.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

Ihe Cathedral, founded in 1812, dedicated
to St. Vigilius. It is of marble, and is sur-
mounted by two cupolas.

The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. In
this the celebrated Council of Trent sat from
the year 1545 to 1563. There is a painting of
the Council, comprising portraits of the Coun-
cillors.

ROVEREDO.

Roveredo has a population of 9000. It
has manufactured silk from the Thirteenth
century.

VERONA

Will be found under the heading of
" ITALY."

From Innsbruck to Munich and Vienna.

The route is by Kuffstein and Rosenheim.
Time, 6 hours. At Rosenheim, change car-
riages both for Munich and Vienna.

SALZBURG.

Salzburg has a population of 20,000.

It is

the Capital of the Austrian province of that
name, formerly the seat of a Prince and
Archbishop, situated on the river Zalza,
which flows into the Inn. The situation is of
surpassing beauty.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. An imposing structure.
Built in the Italian style of architecture during
the early part of the Seventeenth century.

The Castle, or Hohen-salzburg, which
crowns the height on the left bank of the
river, was built in the Eleventh century, and
served, during the Middle-Ages, both as a
residence and stronghold for its fighting
Bishops. The view from Monchberg, the
ridge of rock on which the Castle is built, is
perhaps incomparable.

Excursions in the vicinity of Salzburg are
numerous.

The Palace of Helbrunn.

The Water-works, most curious.

The Salt-mines of Hallein.

Berchtesgaden, a most lovely excursion, and
the Konigs-see, will require a whole day. The
scenery of this Lake is wonderfully grand.
Mountains rise nearly 8000 feet from it on
every side,

255

256

ITALY.

Extent. Length, 720 miles; greatest
breadth, 380 miles.

Mountains. The Alps on the North, the
Apennines in the Centre and South.

Plains. Lombardy on the North, one of
the most extensive in Europe.

Climate. Temperate, and warm, and gene-
rally healthy.

Divisions. Sixty-nine provinces.

Government. Limited monarchy. Rome
the Capital.

Manufactures. Not important ; silk the
most so.

Population. Twenty-seven millions. Ro-
man Catholic.

Outlined Tour. Continuing our " General
Continental Tour " from Trieste direct, see
under heading of " AuSTRO-HuNGARiAN
EMPIRE," railways connect the whole of what
follows, viz. Venice, Padua, Verona, Man-
tua, Brescia, Milan, Novara, Turin, Alessan-
dria, Genoa, Parma, Modena, Bologna,
Florence, Lucca, Pisa, Leghorn, Rome,
Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius,
whence to Spain and Portugal, or by Brindisi
to Greece and Turkey.

VENICE.

From Trieste, by steam, in 8 hours; or by
railway, in 8 hours.

VENICE

6 S Zaffonct/.T. S. Georipv dei Greci/.

Venice, the " Queen of the Adriatic," has a
population of 120,000. Its beauty and situa-
tion are singular. It is reared upon seventy-
two islands, in the midst of shallow lagoons.
Steamers and Merchant-vessels moor opposite
the Doge's Palace. Eighty miles of littorale,

2 57

sand-bank and sea-wall, protect the city and
port from the swell of the Adriatic, a vast
work, wondrous for extent and solidity.

Ancient Venice was the earliest, and, for a
long time, the first commercial city in Europe.
In the Fifteenth century it was by far the
richest and most magnificent, with the single
exception of Rome. But visitors were im-
pressed with higher notions of the grandeur of
Venice on account of its singular situation,
rising sheer out from the midst of the sea.

Modern Venice has about 50,000 tons of
shipping, of which the largest proportion is
engaged in coasting-trade. The Manufactures
are principally glass. The greatest works are
situated on the island of Murano. These
employ 4000 hands, in producing ingenious
beads, magnificent mirrors, artificial pearls,
etc. Gold chains, and a variety of jewellery,
are also manufactured largely. And Printing
is very extensively cultivated.

Locomotion. The greater part of the inter-
course of the city is carried on by gondolas.
"The Gondola supplies the place of other
cities' coaches." They are long, narrow, light
vessels, painted black, according to an ancient
law, and contain in the centre a cabin fitted
up with cushions and curtains.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Grand Canal. It serpentines through
the city. The city is intersected by 146
smaller canals, over which there are 306
bridges for foot-passengers. On either side
of all the canals, but especially the Grand, are
magnificent Palaces and Churches. This
Canal, which varies from 100 to 180 feet in
width, is crossed by

The Rialto, the chief bridge, and famous,
built of marble, by Antonio da Ponte, in the
year 1591, having stairs by which the peo-
ple ascend on one side and descend on the
other. It is divided into three parts, a high-
way running through the centre, with shops on
either side, and two still narrower ways be-
tween the shops and outer balustrade.

The Piazza San Marco is a right-angled
open, 600 feet by 300. The smaller Piazzetta
leading to it forms the chief landing to Venice
from the sea. On one side is the old Palace
of the Doges, on the other the Mint and
258

ITALY.

Library of St. Mark. Two granite columns,
each of a single shaft, one bearing the statue
of St. Theodore, one Patron of the Republic,
and the other crowned by the Winged Lion
of St. Mark, the other Patron, stand on the
Piazzetta. Public executions formerly took
place between these two columns. On the
north of the Piazza the long row of buildings
is the Procuratie Vecchie, on the south the
Procuratie Nuove. The Cathedral of St.
Mark, the Orologio, and Campanile stand
also on it.

The Three Poles, in front of the Cathedral,
formerly displayed the flags of Morea, Crete,
and Cyprus, which the Republic possessed in
the Fifteenth century.

The Promenade of Venice is this Piazza,
the scene of masquerades and festivals fre-
quently.

The Cathedral of San Marco was completed
in the year 1073. It is a mixture of Grecian,
Roman and Eastern architecture. The nave
is 243 feet in length, the transepts 200 feet,
the centre dome is 92 feet in height, and the
other four domes each 8 1 feet. It is built in
the form of a Greek cross. The width of the
front is 171 feet, the height 73 feet. Nearly
600 pillars decorate the inside and the outside
of this strange building. In front are
five arched door-ways, each having double
rows of columns. Over these arches is a gallery
of marble, and on it are the famous Bronze
Horses, carried from Athens to Constantinople
by Theodosius, from whence they were trans-
ferred hither by the Venetians in the year 1206.
Five large mosaics are over the door-ways : the
first on the right, a design executed in the year
1650, the subject, the body of St. Mark being
removed from its tomb at Alexandria. The
second is its reception at Venice. The Last
Judgment occupies the central place. The
fourth design dates from the year 1728, repre-
senting the Venetians venerating the body of
St. Mark. The last and most ancient of these
mosaics represents the early Church of St.
Mark itself. Above these are four other
mosaics, the subjects of which are the Taking
down from the Cross, the Descent into hell,
the Resurrection, and the Ascension.

The Baptistery. Fourteenth century.
Granite slab upon which the Saviour is said to
have stood when he preached to the inhabi-
tants of Tyre, brought from that city in the
year 1126, forming the altar.

Group of Figures in red porphyry, near the
Doge's Palace, the origin of which is not
known.

259

The Torre del? Orologio, or Clock-tower,
is situated on the north. It was designed by
Pietro Lombardo in the year 1494. The two
upper stories show the Virgin in gilt bronze,
and the Lion of St. Mark. It was struck by
lightning in the year 1750, and restored in the
year 1755.

The Mcrceria where the principal shops are,
and the main trade carried on, begins beneath
the Clock -tower.

The Procuratie Vecchie stand upon fifty-
one arches. They were the residence of Procu-
rators, who were among the most important
personages of the Republic.

The Campanile, or Bell-tower, on the
Piazza, 320 feet high, was commenced in the
year 903 ; the Belfry was built in the year
1509. The Loggia at the base of the tower is
ornamented with statues of Mercury, Pallas,
Apollo, and Peace.

The Doge's Palace, open to visitors daily,
was built in the Fourteenth century. Rows
of fine arches support the beautiful wall of
brick-work, in which are a few windows. The
design is that of a most imposing structure.

The Giants Stairs. A noble flight of steps
erected in the year 1484 leads up from the
Cortile. It derives its name from the statues
of Mars and Neptune which stand at the top.
The statues of Adam and Eve are magnificent
sculptures of the Venetio-Lombard school.
Busts of celebrated Venetians, Tintoretto,
Moro, Dandolo, Marco Polo, etc., stand round
the upper colonnade. In the Court-yard are
two bronze-wells of the year 1556.

The Sala del Maggior Consiglio is 176 feet
long, 86 feet broad, 53 feet high, a magnificent
room. At the one end of it is the painting of
Paradise, 84 feet in width, and 33 feet in
height, by Tintoretto. Portraits of seventy-
two Doges hang round the hall, commencing
from the year 809; the space which should
have been occupied by Marino Faliero empty,
bearing an inscription of his death for con-
spiring against the Republic.

The Sala del Scrutinio was where the
Nobles were elected formerly, and the Doge
nominated. The portrait of the last Doge,
Manin, is in this apartment, in which the
series is continued and concluded.

The Sala dello Scudo, named from the
Doge's coat of arms being placed here at the
time of the election, contains The Mappo
Hondo of Fra Mauro, a monk of the convent
of St. Michael.

The Lion's Mouth, celebrated receptacle of
the " secret denunciations," is at the entry to
260

ITALY.

the Sala della Bussola, the ante-rcnm of the
Council of Ten.

The Sala del Collegia. Here Foreign
Ambassadors were received by the Doge and
his Privy-Council.

The Anti- Collegia contains four of Tinto-
retto's best paintings, the Forge of Vulcan,
Mercury and the Graces, Ariadne crowned by
Venus, and Pallas and Mars.

The Ponte de 1 Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs,
sung by Byron, has the "palace and the pri-
son on each hand." Criminals were conveyed
across it to their sentence and frequently their
execution, whence its name.

The Arsenal occupies an island nearly 3
miles in circumference. The entrance is guarded
by two towers and four Lions brought from
the Piraeus, the Winged Lion frowning further
defiance over the gate-way.

The Principal Palaces are

The Palazzo Foscari erected at the latter
part of the Fifteenth century by the same
architect as that of the Doge's palace.

The Palazzo Pisani a San Polo is Ara-
besque-Gothic, built early in the Fifteenth cen-
tury.

The Palazzo Grimani is now the Post-
office. In the Grimani-family were two
Doges.

The Palazzo Grimani a S. Maria Formosa
contains the colossal statue of Agrippa which
was formerly in the Pantheon at Rome.

The Co? d'Oro is one of the most remarkable
palaces of the Fifteenth century, adorned in
Eastern style.

The Palazzo Treves contains the last works
of Canova, the Hector and Ajax, bought by
the present owner for 100,000 francs, and for
which a million have since been offered by an
American.

The Principal Churches are

The Frari, designed by Nicolo Pisano in
the year 1258. It contains a monument to
Titian, erected at the personal expense of the
Emperor of Austria; monument erected in
the year 1827 to Canova, the design being a
duplicate of the one executed by himself for
the Arch-duchess Christina at Vienna ; monu-
ment to the Doge Giovanni Pesaro, con-
structed in the year 1659, Moors and negroes
in black marble, robed in white, supporting it ;
tomb of Doge Nicolo Tron, who died in the
year 1472, composed of six stones, ornamented
by nineteen full-length figures, the whole
70 feet high and 50 feet wide.

In the Sacristy is a beautiful painting by
261

Bellini of the Madonna and three Saints, and
a Crucifixion and Burial of Christ.

In the Chapel of St. Peter is a painting by
Titian, representing the Virgin with Christ in
her arms, and St. Francis, St. Peter with a
book, and five members of the Pesaro-family
kneeling, for which Titian received about
50^ only.

The Church of S. Giovanni e Paolo was
commenced in the year 1246, and completed
in the year 1390. It is 330 feet long, 140 feet
wide, and 120 feet high.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Monuments : one of the finest of which
is that to the Doge Andrea Vendramin, the
style dignified, the idea graceful, the statue of
the Doge upon his bier sleeping. Titian's
Painting of St. Peter Martyr, one of his finest
works, " third best painting in the world,"
was recently destroyed.

The Statue of Bartolommeo Colleoni is in
front of this church ; designed by Andrea
Verrocchio, who is said to have died of grief
in consequence of the mould being a failure
and his inability therefore to complete the
work.

The Church of Santa Maria della Salute,
very beautiful, was erected in Thanksgiving
after the Pestilence of .the year 1630, in which
60,000 persons died. It contains many works
of art ; Titian's Descent of the Holy Spirit ;
the Evangelists and Doctors of the Church,
Titian himself under the figure of St. Matthew ;
Tintoretto's Marriage at Cana ; Padovanino's
Madonna della Salute ; altar magnificent,
representing the Virgin and Child, St.
Mark on one side, St. Justinian on the other ;
an allegorical figure of Venice kneeling before
an Angel who is driving away the Plague.

The Accademia delle Belle Arti is open
from 12 to 4 daily. In the Sala dell' Assumta
is the most famous painting of Titian, the
Assumption of the Virgin ; it was purchased
from the Friars of the church of the Frari,
the altar of which it formerly glorified. Titian
was born at Cadore in the year 1477, and
stands at the head of the Venetian school
as the greatest colourist in the world. Also
in this sala are two others by him, the Visita-
tion of St. Elizabeth, painted when he was at
the age of fourteen, and a Deposition when
he was at the age of ninety-eight. The
Assumption was painted in his prime. St.
Mark staying the tempest, full of historical
interest, is one of the best works of
Giorgione. Christ in the house of Levi is of
large size, by Paul Veronese.
262

ITALY.

In San Rocco, Tintoretto painted for seven-
teen years. The walls are covered with his
paintings. His greatest work is a Crucifixion.
He was born at Venice in the year 1512, was
a pupil of Titian, who, fearful of a rival, sent
Lim away. He studied then alone. He united
the design of Michael Angelo with the colour-
ing of Titian.

The Theatre La Fenice is the principal. It
is large, capable of containing 2500 persons.

PADUA.

From Venice, by railway, in I hour.

Padua has a population of 56,000. It is the
most ancient city of the north of Italy.
Tradition ascribes its foundation to Antenor
after the siege of Troy. It was taken by
Alaric, Attila, and the Lombards, restored by
Charlemagne to its former grandeur, and under
his successors it flourished. It came into
possession of the Carrara-family in the year
1318. It was united to Venice in the year
1405. The appearance of the city is singular,
the houses being supported on rows of arches.
It contains nearly 100 churches, which are the
largest buildings of the city.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Antonio. It is in the
Oriental style. It has seven cupolas. It was
erected in the year 1231 by the citizens of
Padua in honour of their patron-saint. The
interior is elaborately decorated. The chapel
of the saint, rich in a series of sculptures, is
illuminated day and night by silver candle-
sticks and golden lamps. The shrine in the
centre is magnificent in gold and marble.
The presbytery, separated from the rest of the
church by a screen and balustrade of marble,
contains a great bronze Crucifix, a Deposi-
tion in gilt terra-cotta, and a group of the
Madonna and Saints in bronze, by Donatello.

The Arena is supposed to have been a
Roman Amphitheatre. The Roman masonry
is still visible. The chapel of S. Maria dell
Annunciata is decorated by Giotto, his style
forcibly illustrated in these original frescoes,
while at work on which, Dante lodged with
him. The subjects are from Sacred history,
and combine much pathetic expression with
design. Giotto was the son of a shepherd,
was born in the year 1276, became the pupil
of Cimabue, and soon rivalled his master.

The University was celebrated in the Four-
teenth and Fifteenth centuries, and assembled
an immense number of students from all parts
of Europe.

The Palazzo della Municipalita has a roof

263

towering far above the walls, and a room said
to be the largest in the world unsupported by
columns.

The Botanic Garden possesses the oldest
exotics in Europe, cedars of Lebanon, magno-
lias, etc.

The Praia della Valle is the public
promenade, an irregular square. Along its
borders are statues of celebrated men of Padua
and Italy.

The Palazzo Pappafava has a group in
sculpture of Lucifer's Fall, cut out of a single
block of marble, sixty figures. Twelve years
of the artist's life were devoted to it.

Fair from June to August, during which
the city is alive with amusements and strangers.

VERONA.

From Padua, by railway, in 2\ hours.

Verona has a population of 60,000. It is
beautifully situated on the river Adige. The
river, wide and rapid, is crossed by four stone
bridges. There are five gates, remarkably
fine.

Verona has been the birth-place of many
distinguished men. The poet Catullus, born
B.C. 86 ; the writer Pliny the elder, born A.D.
23 ; the painter Paul Cagliari, surnamed
Veronese, born in the year 1530. It is also
one of the most industriou stowns of Italy. Its
Manufactures are silk, leather, earthenware,
soap, linen, and woollen.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Amphitheatre t more perfectly preserved
than any other extant, one of the noblest
existing monuments of the ancient Romans,
the Coliseum excepted, and the largest edifice
of its kind.

The Cathedral was erected in the time of
Charlemagne. It is very rich and beautiful,
Chapels of the Maffei-family and of S.Agatha
particularly so, with many monuments very
quaint.

The Church of San Zenone was built in the
Twelfth century. The front is covered with
bas-reliefs in stone, and the doors are sculp-
tured in bronze. The west window is most
remarkable. The shape of the church is a
Latin Basilica ; it has no transepts. Of its
curious relics the most remarkable are the
statue of St. Zeno, bishop of Verona in the
year 362, by birth an African ; a vase formed
of a single block of red porphyry ; a pedestal ;
a painting by Mantegna, at the back of the
high-altar, which formerly consisted of six
compartments. The Campanile is most beau-
tiful of its peculiar style of architecture.

264

ITALY.

The Church of S. Anastasia is Gothic,
one of the most beautiful of its kind in Italy ;
76 feet in width, 300 feet in length. The
walls are covered with frescoes. The pave-
ment is composed of red, white, and grey
marbles.

The Church of San Giorgio contains many
paintings, statues, etc, The high-altar is of
exquisite workmanship. The principal paint-
ings are Paul Veronese's Martyrdom of St.
George, and Farinati's Miracle of the Loaves
and Fishes.

The Palaces are chiefly from the designs
of Sanmicheli, and are fine specimens of
architecture.

The Palazzo del Consiglio was built by Fra
Giacondo. It bears statues of the celebrated
natives.

The Tombs of the Scaligers, old lords of
Verona, are curious specimens of ancient
sculpture. They have stood for upwards of
500 years. They are at the entrance to the
Church of Santa Maria Antica.

The Piazza dell 1 Erie, Vegetable-market,
was, in the times of the Republic, the Forum-
From its Tribune criminals received their
sentence. The fountain in the centre was
erected by King Berengarius. At one end is
the Palace of the Maffei.

Juliet's Tomb. Shakspeare has told the
story of the Montagues and Capulets, and the
loving Juliet's melancholy death. The alleged
tomb is in the garden of the Orfanotrofio.
Let us believe in Shakspeare and his play.

MANTUA.
From Verona, by railway, in i^ hour.

Mantua is built upon two portions of land,
between which flows the river Mincio. It is
unhealthy and deficient in beauty. It is
surrounded by water, divided into lakes, the
principal of which is the Lago Inferiore, apart
of which is natural, and a part formed by dam-
ming up the river. A causeway connects the
town with the Borgo di Fortezza, a strong
citadel in the north, and with the Borgo di San
Giorgio, another equally strong on the opposite
side.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Castello del Corte, Palace of the ancient
Gonzaga-family, a vast structure, greatly de
cayed ; a portion now used as a prison, the
other portion as public offices. The rooms are
nearly 500 in number. Giulio Romano has
displayed himself in the gigantic paintings.

The Church of S. Andrea is beautiful.
265

Beneath the high-altai is a shrine said to con-
tain some of the blood of Christ.

The Piazza Virgiliana is a large square
surrounded by trees, open to the lake.

The Ponte di San Giorgio, which crosses
the lake, is 2500 feet in length. It was built
in the Fourteenth century.

The Palazzo del Te was designed by Giulio
Romano. It exhibits some of his most ch; -
racteristic paintings. The Hall of Giants has
immense figures.

THE LAGO DI GARDA

Lies between Verona and Brescia. It is a
lake formed by the river Mincio, descending
from the Tyrol. The surrounding country is
a garden of beauty. The lower portion of it
is twelve miles across. Catullus selected this
situation for his villa, the ruins of which are
still visible.

BRESCIA.
From Verona, by railway, in 2 hours.

Brescia has a population of 40,000. It is
ancient, and was celebrated for the heroism of
its inhabitants.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Duomo Vecchio, a very ancient build-
ing, commenced in the year 660, and finished
in the year 670.

The Duomo Nuovo, a modern edifice of
white marble, was completed in the year 1825.
The dome is large, next in size to that of the
Cathedral at Florence.

The Church of S. Afra contains frescoes
and paintings, among which are Titian's
Woman taken in Adultery, and a portrait
of Paul Veronese in the fore-ground of h's
painting of the Martyrdom of S. Afra.

The Church of San Francesco contains a
painting of great beauty, the Marriage of the
Virgin, by Caravaggio.

The Biblioteca Quiriniana was founded by
the Cardinal Quirini in the year 1750. It has
ancient manuscripts, and 30,000 volumes. A
copy of the Gospels, in gold and silver, of the
Ninth century, is most interesting.

The Broletto, ancient Hall of the Republic,
of brick, of peculiar architecture, was com-
menced in the Eleventh century, and com-
pleted in the Twelfth.

The Loggia, in the Piazza Vecchia, has a
beautiful exterior.

The Museo Cimco contains a celebrated
work of Raffaelle, the Saviour crowned with
Thorns, for which have been paid 24,000
francs.

266

ITALY.

MILAN.

From Brescia, by railway, in 2~ hours.

Milan has a population of 230,000. It is
situated on a plain, between the Olona and
Lambra rivers. It is 8 miles in circumference.
It is irregularly laid out, yet it is one of the
finest cities in Europe, full of activity, wealth,
noble thoroughfares, and fine buildings. It
has a great business. Its Manufactures are
silk, leather, earthenware, etc.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral, a fine Gothic edifice, ranks
next to St. Peter's of Rome. Impossible to
be unimpressed by its beauty. It is constructed
entirely of white marble from the quarries of
the Gandoglia beyond the Lake Maggiore,
-which were bequeathed for the purpose
by Gian Galeazzo. It is in the form of a
Latin cross, the length usually considered to
be 490 feet, the breadth 180 feet, the transepts
284 feet, the height of the nave 152 feet. The
fa9ade presents a fine effect. The style of archi-
tecture has varied in consequence of the length
of time in process of erection, and the different
ideas of artists. There are thousands of
statues, the precise number doubtful and
changing. To appreciate fully its grandeur
ascend to the roof. The best time for the
lovely prospect is before sun-rise. The inte-
rior has double aisles, clustered pillars, lofty
arches, numberless niches filled with figures.
The Pillars that support the vault are 90 feet
in height, 8 feet in diameter. In a sub-
terraneous chapel beneath the dome is the
shrine in which are the remains of St. Charles
Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan in the Six-
teenth century. The pavement is composed
of red, blue, and white mosaics. Suspended
from the vault over the high-altar is a casket
267

held to contain one of the Nails of the Cross,
exposed ,at the annual Feast of the Holy
Cross, at which time it is carried through the
streets in solemn procession. Amongst other
alleged relics are the towel with which Christ
washed the feet of the Disciples, part of the
Purple robe which he wore, a Thorn from his
crown, a stone from the Holy Sepulchre, the
rod of Moses, and teeth of Abraham, Daniel,
Elisha, and St. John. There are Tombs of
Giovanni Giacomo de Medici, uncle of San
Carlo Borromeo, designed by Michael Angelo ;
of Cardinal Carracciolo ; of Giovanni Andrea
Vimercati, a canon of the Cathedral ; of Marco
Carelli, a benefactor ; of Ottone Visconti,
Archbishop of Milan, composed of red Ve-
rona marble ; above which is a sitting statue of
Pope Pius IV. The Chapel of the Holy
Sacrament has a splendid candelabrum pre-
sented by Giovanni Battista Trivulzio, Arch-
bishop of the Cathedral.

The Church of S. Ambrogio was dedicated
to the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, whose
bones were moved hither by S. Ambrose
while Bishop of Milan. The doors are a
portion of those closed by S. Ambrose against
the Emperor Theodosius after his slaughter of
the inhabitants of Thessalonica. Beneath the
high-altar are the remains of S. Ambrose, S.
Gervasius, and S. Protasius. The canopy
glitters with gold, and is supported by columns
of porphyry. Most elaborate is the facing of
the altar with plates of gold, silver, precious
stones, and enamels. It is covered, but shown
for a small fee. The Pulpit is built upon
eight arches. The vault of the tribune is of
splendid Byzantine art, mosaic upon a ground
of gold, dating from the Ninth century ; the
chair of S. Ambrose stands in the centre.
The Chapel of San Satiro contains fine mosaics.
Here the German Emperors usually received
the Lombard Crown.

The Church of S. Eustorgio is one of the
most ancient. It was dedicated in the Four-
teenth century. The most remarkable monu-
ments are those to Stefano Brivio, to the son
of Guido Torelli, Lord of Guastalla, to Stefano
Visconti, son of Matteo Magno (a sarcophagus
supported by eight columns, resting on lions), '
to Uberto Visconti, to the wife of Matteo
Magno, to Gaspar Visconti and his wife Agnes.
Outside the church is a pulpit from which the
Monk Peter Martyr preached, who was mur-
dered near Barlassina, and was canonized
thirteen years after.

The Church of the Madonna di San Celso
is of the richest ornamentation.
268

ITALY.

The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie,
with its Dominican convent, was founded in
the year 1463. The interior grand with fres-
coes, paintings, and altars. In its refectory is
the famous Cenacolo or Last Supper, by
Leonardo da Vinci. It is 30 feet long, 15 feet
high. It has suffered from damp, age, and
abuse, but still remains one of the most cele-
brated paintings in the world.

The Church of San Vittore al Corpo is very
magnificent.

The Palazzo del Corte is erected on the site
of the old Sforza Palace, one of the finest in
Italy, with spacious apartments, paintings,
rooms hung with tapestry, etc.

The Church of San Gottardo's steeple is a
singular specimen of the architecture of the
Fourteenth century.

Palaces. The principal are the Serbelloni,
Yitti, Marino, Visconti, Belgiojoso, the last
occupied by the First Napoleon and after-
wards by Eugene Beauharnais.

The Brera has a collection of Paintings by
great Artists.

The Biblioteca Ambrosiana, open daily
from 10 to 3, contains MSS. and 100,000
volumes.

The Piazza de* Mercanti contains remains of
old Milan.

The Arco della Pace is a fine specimen of
modern architecture, of marble, with statues.
Its length is 73 feet, depth 42 feet, height 74
feet, to the top of the principal statue 20 leet
more, a bronze statue of Peace in a chariot
drawn by six horses.

The Amphitheatre, on the Piazza d' Armi,
can accommodate 30,000 spectators.

NOVARA.

From Milan, by railway, in labours.
Novara has a population of 30,000 inhabi-
tants.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

7%i? Duomo. A fine edifice.

The Church of San Gaudenzio contains
Gaudenzio Ferrari's Nativity, with Madonna,
Child, Saints, and attendant Angels.

To the south occurred on the 23rd March,
1849, the sanguinary action between the
Austrians and Piedmontese, which terminated
in the defeat of the latter, and the abdication
of their brave King Carlo Alberto, the whole
campaign having lasted but five days.

The Lago Maggiore is within I hour of
Novara by railway, already described under
the heading of " SWITZERLAND."
269

TURIN.

From Novara, by railway, in 2\ hours.
Turin has a population of 200,000. It is
situated between the Dora Riparia and the
Po. It has clean streets, and regular forma-
tion. There is no mean-looking house, and
the residences of even the poorest are almost
palatial. It contrasts with all the cities in
Italy, in being new, fresh, regular, unantique,
and undecaying, in brick coated over in imita-
tion of stone ! The climate is damp, cold,
changeable.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Duomo. This was one of the wealthi-
est churches in Italy, possessing valuable
treasures of vases, images, candlesticks, etc.,
the greater part of which were very properly
sold to pay for the erection of a bridge across
the Po. It professes to have the Shroud of
Christ.

The Church of Corpus Domini, designed
by Alfieri, is grand. It possesses three paint-
ings, representing a great miracle of the year

1453-

The Palazzo is in the centre of the city.

The Piazza di Castello, a large square, on
which are also the former Palace of the
Dukes of Savoy, and an Equestrian Statue
of Amadeo I.

The Garden attached to the Palace is public,
and a fashionable resort of the Turinese.

The Armeria Regia adjoins the Royal
Palace, and contains many valuable relics,
among which are the cuirass worn by Prince
Eugene at the Battle of Turin, when the
French were defeated.

The Gallery of Paintings contains a fine
collection. The Madonna della Tenda, by
Raffaelle, is of great beauty, and has been
frequently purchased, the last price given for
it being 75,000 francs. In Pharaoh's daughter
finding Moses, by Paul Veronese, the painter
has introduced his own portrait. Several
paintings are by Vandyck.

The Museum of Antiquities >

The Museum of Natural History.

The Piazza San Carlo is the finest square
in Turin. On it is the statue of King Carlo
Alberto, designed by the Baron Marochetti.

The Palazzo Carignano is historical. Here
the Constitution was proclaimed in the year
1821.

The Church of La Superga is 8 miles

distant. Here the Duke of Savoy and Prince

Eugene concerted their plans for the attack

upon the French and the deliverance of the

270

ITALY.

city in the year 1706. The Church was
erected according to a vow made by the
Duke in honour of the Virgin, upon th
victory.

ALESSANDRIA.

From Turin, by railway, in 2 hours.
Alessandria has a population of 46,000. It
has been strongly fortified. Its chief interest
arises from

THE BATTLE-FIELD OF MARENGO.

GENOA.

From Alessandria, by railway, in 2 hours.
Genoa has a population of 130,000. It is a
city of great antiquity. In the Eleventh
century its commerce, settlements, and de-
pendencies in various parts of the ' Medi-
terranean and the Black Sea, were surprising.
Conflicting interests involved the Genoese in
a long-continued conflict with Pisa and Venice,
to the loss of all. It has an imposing ap-
pearance from the sea. In the back-ground
rise the Apennines. The Port is protected
by two gigantic break-waters, the Molo Vec-
chio and Molo Nuovo. A Light-house stands
386 feet above the sea.

The Manufactures of Genoa are silk, velvet,
and gold and silver filigree-work.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral, San Lorenzo. Built in the
Eleventh century, Gothic style, with singular
exterior of horizontal layers of white and black
marbles. The Chapel of St. John the Baptist
women are prohibited by a bull of Pope Inno-
cent VIII. from entering, except on one day
of the year, the saint's death being instigated
by a woman ! In the treasury is the Sacro
Catino, which is said to be the dish that Christ
used at the Last Supper, originally presented
to King Solomon by the Queen of Sheba,
jftenvard preserved in the Temple, then at
Caesarea, till what time Genoa captured Ca2-
sarea, when the Genoese took the dish for
their share of the booty, and on being brought
to Genoa it was held in such veneration that
Twelve Nobles were appointed to guard it.
The Jews lent the Genoese 4,000,000 francs
on it within fifty years. In 1815, it was taken
to Paris, broken, and ascertained to be mere
modern glass.

The Church of the Annunziata, second in
size to the Cathedral, was erected at the private
expense of the Lomellini-family. It is mag-
nificent in decoration and highly-coloured

271

frescoes. Over the entrance is a famous Cena-
colo of Procaccini.

The Church of S. Ambrogio was erected
at the private expense of the Pallavicini-family.
It is rich in gold and colour, and has several
fine paintings.

The Church of the Carignano was erected
by the Sauli-family. From its cupola a fine
view of Genoa is obtainable.

The Church of San Siro is the most ancient
in Genoa, and the one to which attach the
most important historical associations.

The Palaces defy description. They are
numerous, beautiful, contributing to the title
with which the city has been endowed of La
Superba, rich in paintings, and open to visi-
tors. The principal are in the Strada Nuora
and Strada Balbi.

The Palazzo Brignole contains the finest
paintings, works of Titian, Guido, Paul Vero-
nese, the Caracci, Carlo Dolce, Paris Bordone,
&c.

The Palazzo Pallavicini possesses the
second-best collection of paintings.

The Palazzo Doria Tursi formerly belonged
to the Queen of Sardinia, is now occupied by
the municipality. A Bronze table of history
of old Roman territory is here.

The Palazzo Reals, formerly the Palace of
the Durazzo-family, was the royal residence of
the King Charles Albert in the year 1842.

The Palazzo Doria has a garden extending
to the sea, and forming a feature in the pic-
turesque of the city.

The Albergo di Poveri is a fine hospital.
23,000 patients can be accommodated in this
charitable institution. It contains a piece of
sculpture, a Dead Christ, by Michael Angelo.
The Theatre Carlo Felice is next in size to
the La Scala at Milan and the San Carlo at
Naples.

The Villa of the Marquis Palla-vicini, most
lovely of villas, is eight miles from the city,
and can be reached by rail in twelve minutes.
It is necessary to obtain tickets of admission
at the Palazzo Pallavicini in Genoa. It re-
quires from two to four hours to see the gar-
dens. They are open from 1 1 to 3 o'clock.

FROM GENOA, TURIN, MILAN, TO BOLOGNA.

By railway, in nearly equal time.

PARMA.

From Milan, by railway, in 3 hours.
Parma has a population of 50,000. It is
ituated on the river Parma, a branch of the
Po.

272

ITALY.

The Principal Objects of Interest are |

The Ducal Palace.

The Picture- Gallery. Here are four of Cor-
reggio's masterpieces.

The Sculpture- Gallery contains several
antiques found in the ruins of Velleia, and a
bust of Maria Louisa by Canova.

The Library is one of the finest. It con-
tains 140,000 volumes, 100,000 engravings,
20,000 pieces of music, a manuscript of Pet-
rarch, a Hebrew Psalter noted by Martin
Luther, a copy of the Koran found in 1683
by the Emperor Leopold I. in the tent of the
Grand Vizier Kara Mustapha after the siege
of Vienna, letters of Dante, etc., etc.

The Farnese Theatre. Great interest
attaches to this, now in rums. It was
capable of holding 8oco people. It was the
scene of the grandest spectacles produced in
Italy. It is 1000 feet long, 100 feet wide.
The Corinthian columns which support the
boxes are 65 feet high. The architect of this
superb structure was Aleotti.

The Cathedral is ancient, commenced in
the beginning of the Twelfth century. The
frescoes of the cupola were executed by
Correggio, his last works, done between the
years 1522 and 1530. In the chapel of S.
Agatha is a monument to Petrarch, who was
Archdeacon here. Note a fine bas-relief
representing the Descent from the Cross.

The Church of S. Giovanni Evangelista
is small, but fine. The cupola was painted
by Correggio. Numerous other frescoes of
his are here. Note, over small door in the
left transept, his painting of St. John.

The Church of the Madonna della Steccata.
This was built in the Sixteenth century,
after the model of St. Peter's at Rome. It
is finely frescoed by Parmigianino and
Anselmi. Moses breaking the Tables of
Law, and the Adam and Eve, are famous.

Ihe Camera di San Paolo contains
frescoes by Correggio, illustrating the Chase,
Cupids, the Graces, Fortune, Adonis, Diana,
etc. It should be visited as near noon as
possible, for the light.

MODENA.

From Parma, by railway, in i hours.

Modena has a population of 38,000. It is
situated in a fertile plain between the Panaro
and the Secchia.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Palace, vast.

273

The Picture- Gallery, small, but good.

The Library contains 100,000 volumes, and
5000 manuscripts, amongst which one of
Dante with his miniature.

The Cathedral is of the Eleventh century,
very fine.

The Campanile was erected in the Thir-
teenth century. It is one of the highest in
North Italy, 345 feet. It is also named
Ghirlandina on account of the " garland " of
flowers in bronze on the top of its weather-
cock.

BOLOGNA.

From Modena, by railway, in f of an hour.

Bologna has a population of 99,000. It
is one of the most ancient cities of Italy. It
is situated at the foot of the Apennines,
between the rivers Reno and Savena.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of S. Petronio. It was com-
menced in the year 1390. Its style is Tuscan-
Gothic. It is surrounded by chapels, the
most remarkable part of the building, most of
them frescoed. It has monuments to Elise
Bonaparte, her husband, and her four
children ; an altar-piece by Costa ; the
Madonna on Throne surrounded by Saints ;
bas-reliefs by Properzia Rossi, a beautiful
and remarkable woman, in whose Joseph
with Potiphar's wife she carved her own
portrait and her lover's.

The Church of S. Domenico, founded by
S. Dominic in the Twelfth century, founder
also of the order of monks called Dominican.
He lived long in the convent of this church.
His tomb, surmounted by a cupola and
decorated with bas-reliefs, represents scenes
in his life, sculptured by And. Pisano; the
angel in white marble is by Michael Angelo ;
this tomb is one of the finest works of the
Thirteenth century extant.

The Chapel of the Rosary has frescoes by
Guido and the Caracci. It contains the tomb
of Guido. The ceiling of the dome over the
high-altar was frescoed by Michael Angelo.

The Leaning-Towers are famous.

The Church of San Giacomo Maggiore,
near the Tower of the Asinelli, was founded
in the year 1267, and restored in the year
1862. The Madonna in the Chapel of the
Bentivoglio-family is a master-piece of Fran-
cesco Francia.

The Cathedral, Church of S. Pietro, com-
menced in the year 1605, contains only a
nave. The painting of the Annunciation

274

ITALY.

over the high-altar is the last work of
Ludovico Caracci.

The Campo Santo is very interesting.

The Accademia delle Belle Arti. One of
the finest picture-galleries in Italy.

FLORENCE.

From Bologna, by railway, in 5 hours.
Genoa, by railway, in 7 hours.

From

Florence has a population of 150,000. It
is situated in the valley of the Arno. It has
been celebrated by Byron and Rogers. It was
the birth-place of Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio,
Galileo, Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci,
Benvenuto Cellini, Andrea del Sarto. The
climate varies but 30 degrees from summer to
winter.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Nine Gates. That of San Gallo is an
arch of triumph, erected in the year 1738 in
commemoration of the entrance of Francis II.

Six Bridges cross the Arno river. Four
are of stone and two of iron suspension.
The Ponte Vecchio, built in the year 1078,
has shops on either side, mostly tenanted by
jewellers. The Ponte Santa Trinita was built
in the middle of the Sixteenth century ; for-
merly carriages were not allowed to cross it, the
authorities thinking it too slender, but it has
proved to be both beautiful and strong ; at
the angles statues represent the Four Sea-
sons. The Ponte alia Carraja is so called
from its being used by carriages. The Iron
suspension-bridges are the San Ferdinando
and San Leopoldo.

The Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore.
The original design was by Amolfo. At his
death Giotto proceeded with it. When he also
died, Brunelleschi completed it. The length
is 501 feet ; from the pavement to the summit
of the cross, 388 feet ; transepts, 305 feet ;
width of nave, 129 feet, the "widest in the

275

world." It served as a model to Michael An-
gelo for St. Peter's. It is paved with coloured
marbles. The stained-glass windows, of the
Fifteenth century, are perfection. It contains
the tombs of its architects, Giotto and Bru-
nelleschi.

The Campanile, or Bell-tower, adjoining the

Cathedral, was designed by Giotto. Height

275 feet ; 413 steps easy of ascent. It has six

large bells, the largest of which, La Santa

I Reparata, bears the Medici-arms.

The Battistero di San Giovanni. Built of
black and white marble, taken from a Temple
of Mars, supposed to have been constructed
in the Seventh century. Three bronze doors ;
that by Andrea Pisano is a history of St. John
the Baptist, for which Giotto gave the design ;
the completion of this door was celebrated
throughout Tuscany by a festival ; the other
two are by Ghiberti, Michael Angelo declared
them worthy of being the gates of Paradise.
The subjects are the Creation ; the curse of
Labour, after the expulsion from Paradise ;
Noah after the Deluge ; the Promise to Abra-
ham ; Esau selling his birth-right ; Joseph
and his brothers ; the Law from Mount Sinai ;
the Fall of Jericho; the battle with the
Ammonites ; the Queen of Sheba visiting Solo-
mon. The baptisms performed in this church
number annually about 5000.

The Church of Santa Croce contain monu-
ments to the memory of the most celebrated
men of Italy. The favourite burial-place of
the Florentines. Arnolfo was its architect.
Its length is 460 feet, its width 135 feet. The
principal monuments are to Michael Angelo,
statues of Painting, Sculpture and Architec-
ture appearing as mourners, the position of
this monument having been selected by
Michael Angelo himself, that he might see
from it the Dome of the Cathedral ; to Alfieri,
by Canova ; to Dante ; to Machiavelli ; to
Lanzi, writer on Italian art ; to Leonardo
Aretino ; to Galileo ; to the Polish Countess
Zamoyska; to the Countess d' Albanie, wife
the Pretender. The pulpit is of red and white
marble. There is a chapel of the Bonaparte-
family. The fa9ade of this church was not
finally completed till the year 1863.

The Piazza of Santa Croce. Hereon the
Democracy of Florence established its power
in the year 1250. In the centre is a colossal
statue of Dante, inaugurated May I4th, 1865.

The Church of La Santissima Annun-

ziata was dedicated to the Virgin by seven

Florentine gentlemen of Monte Senario, in the

year 1233. High-altar richly sculptured, front

276

ITALY.

of massive silver, and tabernacle of silver. In
the Chapel of the Annunziata are frescoes of
the Annunciation and the Madonna del Sacco,
by Andrea del Sarto.

The Piazza delV Annunziata is one of the
finest in the city.

The Spedale degli Innocenti is the Found-
ling-Hospital.

The Equestrian Statue of Ferdinand I. was
cast from cannon taken from the Turks by the
knights of St. Stephen.

The Bronze Fountains, very beautiful, were
designed by Tacca.

The Church of the Carmelites was formerly
the most magnificent in Florence.

The Church of San Lorenzo. Portions of
this are attributed to Michael Angelo. It is
rough on the exterior, the interior beautiful,
recently restored. In the Sagrestia Vecchia
is the 'tomb of Giovanni d' Averado de'
Medici. In the Sagrestia Nuova, or Capella
de ' Depositi, are the tombs of Giuliano and
Lorenzo de' Medici, by Michael Angelo. In
the Medicean Chapel, at the back of the choir,
there are magnificent mosaics and frescoes.
The walls are inlaid with marbles and pre-
cious stones. Armorial bearings circle the
chapel, most perfect mosaic. The grand
frescoes of the cupola were executed by
Benvenuti, Director of the Academy, between
the years 1828 and 1837. They represent the
leading events from the Creation to the Last
Judgment. Noticeable also are the beautiful
tomb and bronze statue, gilt, of Cosmo, by
John of Bologna, and of Ferdinand I., by
Tacca. The bodies of the different Grand-
Dukes lie in the crypt below.

The Laurentian Library. Its MSS.
number about 9000 ; they rank in importance
after those of the Vatican Hebrew, Greek,
Latin, Coptic, Arabic, Syriac, Italian, MSS.
of the Fourteenth, Fifteenth, and Sixteenth
Centuries, the Medicean Virgil, the earliest
MS. of theJEneid, and the first MS. of the
Pandects of Justinian. The library is open
from 9 to 12, daily.

The Church of San Marco contains the
celebrated Crucifixion by Giotto which at-
tracted the popular attention, and laid the
basis of his reputation.

The Church of Santa Maria Novella is
situated on the Place of the same name. It
contains famous frescoes of Ghirlandajo, the
master of Michael Angelo. They should be
visited early in the day, and even then they
arc indistinct. It also contains the Madonna
of Cimabuc, which was considered at the time

2/7

the perfection of art, and was canied in
triumph from the studio of the painter to the
church by the populace en masse. Here also
is the famous Crucifix carved by Brunelleschi,
in rivalry with Donatello, who executed that
now in Santa Croce.

The Piazza della Signoria is the principal
business-portion of the city.

The Palazzo Vecchio, formerly the residence
of the magistracy, is now used for government
offices. The saloon is 169 feet long, 77 feet
broad.

The Statues of the Piazza. Bronze eques-
trian of Cosmo I., by Giovanni da Bologna ;
Colossal Hercules by Bandinelli ; Lion by
Donatello.

The Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati,
erected on the spot where Savonarola suffered
martyrdom.

The Loggia de 1 Lanzi was considered by
Michael Angelo to be " beyond improve-
ment." Under it are some fine sculptures
Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini ; Rape of the
Sabines by Giovanni da Bologna; Judith
slaying Holoferne by Donatello, and the
Dying Ajax supported by a soldier.

The Uffizi Gallery of Paintings and Sculp-
tures. It encircles three sides of an open
court.

The Gallery is open daily from 9 to 3, on
Sunday from 10 to 3 o'clock. It is among
the richest in the world, vicing with those of
Madrid, Paris, Dresden, and Vienna.

In the Tribune the chefs-d'ceuvre of Sculp-
ture are the Venus de' Medici, so called
because brought to Florence during the reign,
of Cosmo de' Medici, having been found hx
the portico of Octavia at Rome, the inscrip-
tion on the pedestal referring its sculpture to>
the Athenian Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus,
the perfection of design; the Apollino, or
Young Apollo, attributed to the Greek Praxi-
teles ; the Dancing Faun, restored by Michael
Angelo; the Lottatori, or Wrestlers ; and the
Slave whetting a knife ; works which have
a world-wide reputation. In the Tribune
amongst the finest Paintings are Michael
Angelo's Virgin presenting the Infant to St-
Joseph ; Raffaelle's Madonna del Cardinello ;.
the Fornarina ; St. John preaching in the
Wilderness ; Titian's Venus ; Paul Veronese's.
Holy Family with St. John and St. Cathe-
rine ; Annibale Caracci's Bacchante, Pan, andl
Cupid ; Guercino's Sibyl ; Endymion sleep-
ing ; Fra Bartolommeo's Prophets, Isaiah,
Job : Daniel da Volterra's Massacre of the
Innocents; Andrea del Sarto's Madonna and

ITALY.

Child between St. John the Evangelist and
St. Francis, bearing the date of the year
1517, one of his finest works ; Albert Diirer's
Adoration of the Magi ; Andrea Mantegna's
Circumcision, the Adoration of the Magi,
and Resurrection of Christ ; Pietro Perugino's
Virgin and Child between St. John the
Baptist and St. Sebastian ; Correggio's Virgin
kneeling in adoration before the Child be-
tween St. Joseph and St. Francis, one of his
earliest works, painted at the age of twenty.
Beyond the Ttibune, in three rooms, are
Leonardo da Vinci's Medusa's Head ; Fra
Angelico's Birth of St. John the Baptist, the
Coronation of the Virgin, the Marriage of
the Virgin, the Death of the Virgin ; Ghir-
landajo's San Zenobio raising to life a Dead
Child, the Translation of the Body of the
Saint ; Vasari's Lorenzo de' Medici ; Bron-
zino's Descent of Christ into Hades, considered
his greatest work ; Leonardo da Vinci's Ado-
ration of the Magi; Cigoli's Martyrdom of
St. Stephen; Sodoma's Martyrdom of St.
Sebastian ; Filippino Lippi's Adoration of
the Magi, Joseph and Potiphar's Wife, and
Judith slaying Holofernes.

In the Cabinet of Gems is a Casket of
rock-crystal, of exquisite workmanship, repre-
senting the Passion, in seventeen compart-
ments, by Valerio Vicenzio and his daughter.

In the folio-wing rooms are paintings of the
Venetian school, Portraits of celebrated
Painters executed by themselves, the Medi-
cean Vase, found at Hadrian's Villa near
Tivoli, the Venus Urania, the Venus Genitrix,
the Hermaphrodite, the Infant-Hercules
strangling the Serpent, the Cupid and
Psyche.

In the Hall of Baroccio are Bronzino's
Deposition from the Cross, Velasquez'
Philip IV. of Spain on horseback, Rubens'
Bacchus surrounded by nymphs, Baroccio's
Madonna del Popolo, Gherardo della Notte's
Infant-Saviour in the Manger, three tables of
Florentine mosaic, one of which is the most
elaborate work of the kind ever made, which
took twenty-five years to complete, and on
which twenty-two workmen were incessantly
employed.

In the Hall of Niole are eighteen figures
of Xiobe and her Children, discovered in the
year 1583 near the Porta San Paolo at Rome.

The Palazzo Pitti. A splendid edifice by
Bruneleschi and Bartolommeo Ammanati,
'by the latter the wings were added, and the
court completed. Its Paintings amount to
500, of as great attraction as those in the
279

Uffizi. The gallery is open daily, Sunday
excepted, from 10 to 3 o'clock.

The frescoes of the ceilings of the five
chief Halls are representations of the life of
Cosmo I.

In the Hall of Venus, so-called from the
allegorical Triumph of Reason over Pleasure,
Cosmo is rescued from Venus by Minerva,
and made over to Hercules.

In the Hall of Apollo, Cosmo, is guided
by Virtue and Glory to Poetry and the Fine
Arts. Here are Raffaelle's portraits of Mad-
dalena Strozzi Doni, and of her husband
Angelo, painted when Raffaelle was bul
twenty-two years of age, carefully preserved,
most valuable.

In the Hall of Mars, Cosmo's success in
war. Here are Raffaelle's Madonna della
Seggiola, popularly considered the sweetest
of all Madonnas, and Andrea del Sarto's
Holy Family.

In the Hall of Jupiter, Cosmo is led
to the presence of Jupiter Omnipotens by
Hercules and Fortune.

In the Hall of Saturn, Cosmo, old, is duly
conducted to Saturn by Mars and Prudence
to receive the crown of Glory and Eternity.
Here are Raffaelle's Pope Julius II., the
Madonna del Baldacchino, the portraits
of Cardinal Bibbiena and Tommaso Fedra
Inghirami, and the Vision of Ezekiel.

In the Hall of the Education of Jupiter
are fine paintings.

In the Hall of Ulysses is represented his
return to Ithaca.

In the Hall of Prometheus, frescoe by
Colignon, is the magnificent Mosaic-table
valued at 4O,ooq/ir., fifteen years occupied
in making it at the National Manufactory.

In the next room a splendid Malachite-
table.

In the Hall of Justice are fine Paintings.

In the Hall of Flora, Canova's Venus
stands on a pivot in the centre of the room.

In the Hall of the Putti is Salvator Rosa's
Foresta, picture of the cynic Diogenes wisely
throwing away a cup on seeing a youth drink
water out of his hand.

The Bololi Gardens. From the upper
portion are fine views of Florence. The gar-
dens are open on Sunday and Thursday
only.

The Museo di Fisica e di Storia Naturah

contains many apartments filled with wax-

models of the human form. Every portion.

bodies, legs, hearts, lungs, etc., are displayed.

280

ITALY.

Whole figures the size of life, male and female,
lie exposed in puris naturalibus.

The Tribune of Galileo contains frescoes
representing scenes in the life of that great
Astronomer : one shows him in the cathedral
at Pisa, the lamp swinging which gave his
mind the idea of the law of the pendulum ;
another shows him ventilating the telescope
before the Doge and Council of Ten at
Venice ; and another shows him blind, with
one hand on a terrestial globe, the other
pointing upwards, demonstrating to his pupils
the motions of the earth and the heavenly
bodies. His instruments are also preserved
here.

TJie House of MicJiael Angela, Palazzo
Buonarotti, open on Thursday, contains
his statue, manuscripts, sword, canes, and a
portrait of himself. This illustrious painter,
sculptor, architect, and poet, was born in the
year 1474, and died at Rome in the year 1564.

The Palazzo Riccardo was erected by Cosmo
de' Medici in the year 1430. Charles VIII. of
France, Leo X., and other royal and great
personages have lodged here. The grand
gallery is famous.

The Egyptian Museum.

The Biblioteca Magliabecchiana.

The Royal Mosaic Manufactory.

The Theatre, La Pergola, under the man-
agement of thirty proprietors of rank, is the
Grand Opera of Florence. It can accommo-
date 2500 persons.

The Cascine represent Hyde Park and Bois
de Boulogne of the Florentines. It is the
peninsula formed by the junction of the Arno
and the Mugnone, the most charming drive
and promenade. It derives its name from the
Royal Dairy-houses situated near the centre
of the drive, which supply Florence with milk
and butter. Here in the afternoon Bands
play and the Fashion of Florence assembles,
from 4 to 7 o'clock. Florence in all manner
of equipages, and in number varying from
5000, and in style not excelled by any city in
the world, doth congregate. Gentlemen des-
cend from horse and carriage, and visit their
lady-friends, and talk, and gossip, and flirt, and
promenade along the river's bank and shady
groves.

NEAR FLORENCE.

The Poggio Imperiale, a palace of the for-
mer Grand -Dukes, is worth visiting.

Fiesole, ancient town, old when Rome was
in its infancy, is within easy reach.
281

LTTCCA.

From Florence, by railway, in 3 hours.

Lucca has a population of 26,000. It is situ-
ated on the river Serchio, in one of the most
fertile and best cultivated parts of Italy. At
Lucca first in Italy was silk manufactured.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Duomo, founded in the middle of the
Twelfth century.

The Church of San Giovanni.

The Church of San Michele.

The Church of San Frediano.

The Baths of Lucca are fifteen miles from
the city. There is an excellent road. The
Baths are the summer resort of the Fashionable
in Tuscany. The place is one of the coolest
in Italy. The waters are celebrated for the
cure of cutaneous diseases.

PISA.

From Lucca, by railway, in % an hour.
Pisa has a population of 35,000. It was
formerly the Capital of one of the most
celebrated Italian Republics. In the Tenth
century it led the commerce of Italy. In
the Thirteenth century it had a population oi
150,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral. Architecture of the
Eleventh century. Built in the form of a
Latin cross, 300 feet long, 107 feet wide, 120
feet high. Columns of Corinthian architec-
ture divide the aisles. The cupola is sup-
ported by four piers rising from the centre
The centre one of three bronze-doors, executed
by Giovanni da Bologna, represents the
history of the Virgin magnificently. The
Chapel of the Sacrament contains an altar, in
chased silver, the gift of Cosmo III., which
cost 36,000 crowns. The High-altar is im-
mense, and most elaborately ornamented.
The famous paintings are the Madonna dell'
Orgagna, precious, and kept locked, Andrea
del Sarto's St. Agnes, hung between the
nave and cupola, his last painting, the
altar of the Madonna delle Grazie in the
southern transept, Allori's Virgin in glory
surrounded by Saints and Angels, Passig-
nano's Triumph of the Martyrs, Giovanni da
Bologna's Saviour on the Cross, and Abraham
and Isaac's sacrifice. In the nave is sus-
pended the Bronze lamp, the swinging of
which suggested to Galileo the theory of the
pendulum, he being then but eighteen years
old.

282

ITALY.

The Baptistery, opposite the Cathedral, is
an immense building, 150 feet in diameter,
,160 feet high. Exterior of marble, sur-
mounted by a cupola, upon which the figure
of St. John the Baptist appears.

The Campanile, the Leaning-Tower, famed
for its extraordinary declination from the
perpendicular, is 190 feet high. It consists
of eight stories, with outside galleries pro-
jecting. The looking-down from the top is
terrific. The top overhangs the base on one
side 15 feet. The centre of gravity is 10 feet
within the base.

The Campo Santo. The Tombs, sepulchral
Monuments, Statues, and Walls covered with
frescoes representing Scripture-subjects by the
oldest Masters, and the very Earth which
-surrounds the bodies in this edifice purposely
brought from Jerusalem, make it quite unique
in the world.

The Church of Santa Maria della Spina
is on the south bank of the Arno. It is built
of white marble, an architectural gem.

The University. Formerly among the most
celebrated in Italy.

The Botanical Garden, attached to the
University, is beautiful. Some of the plants
are very rare. It has palm-trees and magno-
lias 70 feet high.

The Palazzo Lanfranchi, on the Arno, is
from the design of Michael Angelo.

On the Festival of San Ranieri, celebrated
on the 1 6th and lyth of June every third year,
the city is illuminated by thousands of lamps,
and large crowds flock in.

At the Cascine, farm formerly belonging to
the Grand-Dukes, three miles from Pisa, are
kept 1500 cows and 200 camels, usually.

LEGHORN.

From Pisa, by railway, in an hour.

Leghorn has a population of 100,000. It is
.a clean, well-built city. It has been much
enlarged within the last two years. It has a
large coral-fishery. Its Manufactures are woollen
-caps, straw hats, glass , paper, starch, soap,
etc.

HOME.
From Florence, by railway, in 8 hours.

Rome, Italian Roma, has a population of
250,000. It is situated on the Tiber. It is the
Capital, and seat of Government of the King-
dom of Italy.

"It is impossible in a visit as brief as that
usually given to the ancient Capital of the
civilized world to become acquainted with its

283

objects of interest. In its walls and in the
range of a few miles around it is found the
greater part of the material on which we base
our knowledge of the Historic past. Within
a day's distance are the remains of all the
epochs of Civilization of which we have any
knowledge. And in the galleries, composed
of the remains found in and around Rome, is
the most of what we have of antique Art."

The Principal Objects of Interest cannot be
even cursorily seen under Eight Days, and the
following order will show how they can best
be visited, consistently with this division of
time :

FIRST DAY.

The Forum.

Temple of Concord.

Temple of Giove Tonantc.

Temple of Fortune.

Arch of Severus.

Church of S. Adrian.

Colonne di Foca.

Comizio.

Curia.

Church of Sta. Maria Liberatrice.

Temple of Antony and Faustina.

Temple of Remus.

Temple of Peace.

Arch of Titus.

Temple of Venus and Rome.

The Coliseum.

Arch of Constantine.

Church of S. Theodore.

Arch of Severus in Velabro.

Arch of Giano Quadrifonte.

Cloaca Massima.

Church of Sta. Maria inCosmedin.

Temple of Vesta.

Temple of Fortuna Virile.

Palace of the Caesars.

Circus Maximus.

Church of S. Gregory on Monte Celio.

Baths of Titus.

Sette Salle.

Church of S. Martino in Monte.

Church of S. Pietro in Vincoli.

Church of Sta. Maria della Navicella.

Church of S. Stefano Rotondo.

SECOND DAY.

Piazza del Popolo.

Trinita de' Monti.

Piazza di Monte Cavallo.

Church of S. Bernardo.

Church of Sta. Maria degli Angeli

Sallust's Garden.

Campus Sceleratus.

ITALY.

Obelisk of Sta. Maria Maggiore.

Basilica of Sta. Maria Maggiore.

Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Laterano.

Baptistery of Constantine.

Basilica of S. Giovanni in Laterano.

Scala Santa.

Amphiteatro Castrense.

Basilica of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme.

Temple of Venus and Cupid.

Claudian Aqueduct.

Church of Sta. Bibiana.

Temple of Minerva Medica.

Arch of Gallienus.

Church of Sta. Prassede.

FOURTH DAY.

Temple of the Sun, in the Colonna Garden.
Obelisk of Piazza. Sta. Maria sopra Minerva.
Chnrch of Sta. Maria sopra Minerva.
The Pantheon.
Baths of Agrippa.

Theatre of Pompey, Campo di Fiori.
Palazzo Stoppani.
Piazza Navona.
Church of Sta. Agnese.
Theatre of Marcellus.
Portico d'Octavia.
Temple of ^sculapius.
Church of Sta. Cecilia in Trastevere.

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THIRD DAY.

Campidoglio.
Temple of Pallas.
Temple of Nerva.
Forum of Nerva.
Forum of Trajan.
Trajan's Column.

Mausoleum of C. Poblicius Bibulus.
Dogana Pontificia.
Obelisk of Monte Citorio.
Colonna Antonina.
Mausoleum of Augustus.
Mausoleum of Adrian.
285

Basilica of Sta. Maria in Tiastevere.

FIFTH DAY.

Church of Sta. Prisca, Monte Aventino.

Church of Sta. Sabina.

Church of S. Alessio.

King of Spain's Villa.

Tomb of Cestus.

Caracalla's Bath.

Tomb of the Scipios.

Porta S. Sebastiano.

Basilica S. Sebastiano, alle Catacombe.

Cirque of Romulus.

Tomb of Coecilia Metella.
286

ITALY.

Basilica of St. Paul.

Church of St. Paul at the Three Fountains.

Church of S. Urbano alia Caffarella.

Egeria's Fountain.

Temple of the Redicolo.

Church of Sta. Agnese, beyond Porta Pia.

Church of Sta. Costanza.

Sacro Monte.

Porta S. Lorenzo.

Basilica of S. Lorenzo.

Porta Maggiore.

SIXTH DAY.

Basilica of St. Peter.

The Vatican.

Church of the Trinita de' Monti.

Church of the Capucines.

Palazzo Barberini.

Church of Sta. Maria della Vittoria.

Fountain of the Termini.

Church of S. Andrea, Monte Cavallo.

Palazzo Pontificio.

Palazzo Rospigliosi.

Fountain di Trevi.

SEVENTH DAY.

Church of Sta. Maria del Popolo.

Church of S. Carlo al Corso.

Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina.

Church of S. Ignazio.

Church of the SS. ApostolL

Church of Sta. Maria di Loreto.

Church of II Gesu.

Church of S. Andrea della Valle.

Church of the Trinita de' Pellegrini.

Church of S. Carlo ai Catenari.

Church of S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini di Sta.

Maria in Vallicelli.
Church of Sta. Maria della Pace.
Church of S. Agostino.
Church of S. Luigi de' Frances!.
Accademia di S. Luca.

EIGHTH DAY.

The Palaces*

Borghese.

Sciarra.

Doria.

Bracciano.

Colonna.

Giustiniani.

Massimi.

Braschi.

Farnese.

Spada.

Mattei.

Costaguti.

Falconieii.

287

Farnesina.

Corsini.

The Days and Hours for visiting the Prin-
cipal Palaces, Villas, etc:

Albani Villa, Pictures and Antiquities,
Tuesday.

Borghese Palace, Pictures, daily, nine to
two, Saturday and Sunday, excepted.

Barberini Palace, Pictures, daily, two to five.

Capitoline Museum, Monday and Thursday
free, fee on other days, twelve to three.

Colonna Palace, Pictures, daily, eleven to
three, Sunday excepted.

Corsini Palace, Pictures, daily, nine to
twelve.

Doria Palace, Pictures, Tuesday and Friday,
ten to two.

Farnese Palace and Farnesina Villa, Frescoes
Sunday, ten to three.

Lateran, daily, nine to four,

St. Luca, Academy, daily, nine to five.

Ludovisi Villa, Medici Villa, daily, ten to
three, except Saturday.

Palatine Excavations, Thursday.

Pamfili-Doria Villa, Monday and Friday;
only two-horse carriages admitted.

Quirinal Palace, daily.

Rospigliosi Palace, Wednesday and Satur-
day, eleven to three.

Sciarra-Colonna Palace, Saturday, eleven to
three.

Spada Palace, daily, ten to two.

Vatican Collection, daily by fee, nine to
three, except Sunday and festivals; on Monday
all the collection, except the Picture-gallery,
is open gratis from twelve to three.

NAPLES.
From Rome, by railway, in 8 hours.

Naples, Italian Napoli, has a population ol
460,000. It is situated along the shore of the
Mediterranean. The position is incomparable
for beauty. The chief Manufactures are gloves
and coral-ornaments.

History. Naples was founded by the people
of Cumae. It was actually a Greek city, its
inhabitants spoke the Greek language, and were
long distinguished by their attachment to Greek
manners and customs.

Its theatres, places of amusement, scenery,
the mildness of climate, and luxury of its in-
habitants, made it a favourite retreat of the
wealthy Romans. After the fall of the
Roman Empire, it underwent many vicissi-
tudes. Notwithstanding the calamities it has
suffered from war, earthquakes, etc., it has
lost nothing of its pristine splendour and
attraction.

288

ITALY.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Churches. In number 300.
The Duomo, Cathedral, A.D. 1272.
The Chapel of San Gennaro. Here the
Saint's blood is annually liquified.

7 he Chapel of Santa Maria della Pietra.

The Church of San Martina.

The Church of the SS. Apostoli.

The Palazzo Reale.

The Museo Nationale.

The Biblioteca Brancacciana.

The Biblioteca deV Universita.

The Biblioteca de" 1 Girolomini.

POMPEII, HERCULANEUM, VESUVIUS,

can be visited in a day ; but it requires an early
start. By carriage, drive direct to Pompeii ;
spend the morning there ; lunch at the inn
near Diomede's house; proceed to Hercu-
laneum; thence take horses for Vesuvius;
make the ascent during the night, as the scene
is much grander if in a state of eruption.

POMPEII

was overwhelmed in the year A.D. 79 by an
eruption of Vesuvius, and buried under ashes
and volcanic matter until the year 1 748, when

the peasants, cutting a ditch, came upon it.
Since that time the process of excavation has
been constantly prosecuted. The impression
which it gives of an actual Roman Town,
in all the circumstantial reality of its existence
2000 years ago, is so vivid that it requires
little effort of the imagination to place one's
self among the multitudes which once thronged
its streets, and occupied its houses. A street
is before one, well-paved and well-worn, bor-
dered with foot-paths in good preservation,
as if all had been in use on the previous day.
To the right and to the left one wanders from
street to street and still the image of a town is
before one, except that no inhabitants appear ,-
one may suppose that all have left a few days
before.

HERCULANEUM.

Here streams of lava fell to a depth varying
from 70 to no feet. No great loss of life
resulted from the destruction of this city.
But its excavation is harder. The object of
most interest here to the Tourist is the remains
of an ancient Theatre, supposed to. have
accommodated 10,000 spectators.

VESUVIUS

rises from the midst of the plain of Cam-
pania. It is surrounded on the north and
east by the Apennines. It is open to the
plain of Naples on the west. On the south
its base is washed by the sea. The height of
its cone varies ; it has been lowered to about
3,500 feet within the last few years. It is the
reliquiae of a very ancient and much larger
volcano. Its top presents a bare and rugged
appearance, but round the base it is picturesque,
studded with plantations, villages, country-
houses. The population is about 1500 to the
square mile. The ground is highly cultivated
by Nature, and yields easily three crops a
year. It is on Vesuvius that the iamous
wines, the Lacryma Christi, the Vino del
Greco, and the Muscadine, are grown, and
manufactured.

FROM NAPLES TO BRINDISI.

By railway, in 9 hours.

From Brindisi steamers to the east, as in
sections see under headings of

TURKEY AND GREECE.

289

2 9

RUSSIA.

Extent. 2200 miles long, by 2000 miles
broad.

Population. Eighty-two millions.

Army. Three quarters of a million.

Navy. The third in Europe.

The Emancipation of the Serfs took place
under the reign, of Alexander II. , on the I /th
of March, 1861. It gave constitutional rights
to 20,000,000 more of the population.

The Ceremonies of the Russian Church are
splendid, full throughout of occult meaning.
The Easter-services are especially worthy of
notice. At that season the most magnificent
function of all is celebrated after midnight, or
in the early morning of Easter Sunday. It is
called the Ceremony of the Resurrection. It
certainly exceeds everything of the kind even
at Rome ; not even excepting the Papal Bene-
diction during the Holy Week. At midnight,
the great bell of the Cathedral tolls ; the whole
city is in a blaze ; lights are seen in all the
windows, and innumerable torches in the
streets ; the Archbishop, accompanied by ban-
ners, and torches, and trains of priests, with
crucifixes, and censers, chanting with loud
voice, and glittering in sumptuous vestments,
bespangled with gold, silver, and precious
stones, proceeds to the altar; there two
hours being spent in various ceremonies, he
retires to the sacristy to seek for the body of
Christ ; thence he advances, exclaiming thrice,
with a loud voice, " Christ is risen ! " and
the service then concludes. The Russian
Church is the Greek, as the Roman Church is
the Latin.

Rail-ways. Russia is in direct communica-
tion by rail with all other parts of Europe.
Berlin, the central-point of passage from the
North, see under our heading of " GERMAN
EMPIRE ; " Vienna, from the South, see un-
der our heading of " AuSTRO-HuNGARiAN
EMPIRE."

Local Conveyances. Droschkies, fare one
rouble (or three shillings, on the average) an
hour.

ROUTES TO RUSSIA.

From London to Russia, overland.
The chief places passed on this route are
291

Dover,

Calais,

Lille,

Ghent,

Brussels.

Or, Dover,
Ostend,
Brussels.

From thence the route is one passing

Malines, or Louvain direct,

Liege,

Verviers,

Aix-la-Chapelle,

Cologne,

Diisseldorf,

Minden,

Hanover,

Brunswick,

Magdeburg,

Berlin,

Francfort-on-Oder,

Bromberg,

Dirschau,

Konigsberg,

Wilna,

Dunaberg,

Pakow,

St. Petersburg.

From London to St. Petersburg, by sea.
The steamers touch at either Hamburg or
Stockholm. The average time occupied is
nine days.

CBONSTADT.

Rising from the water, sixteen miles west
of St. Petersburg, and commanding the ap-
proach to it, is Cronstadt. It has a population
of 40,000. It is the chief Naval station of the
Russian Empire. It is defended by formidable
batteries hewn out of solid rock. It has ex-
tensive docks.

ST. PETERSBURG-.

St. Petersburg has a population of 700,000.
It is the Modern Capital of Russia. It was
founded by Peter the Great. He reclaimed it
from the marshes through which the river
Neva discharges its waters into the sea. Its
present magnificence is due to the Empress
Catherine II. In the number and size of its
292

BUSSIA.

public edifices, it compares with any other of
the cities of Europe, and surpasses most of
them.

Droschkies, or street cabs, ply at one rouble
per hour. There are above 8000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Quays, bordering the main channel of
the Neva, very broad and striking.

TJie Nevskoi Prospekt is the principal pro-
menade.

The Imperial Palace, Winter-residence of
the Emperor, is a vast, imposing pile. Des-
troyed by fire in the year 1837, it was rebuilt
in two years in a style of unprecedented mag-
nificence. It contains suites of splendid halls
with marbles, malachites, precious stones,
vases, pictures, and gorgeous interiors. It
is averred to be the largest and most magnifi-
cent palace in the world. Especially notice-
able are the Audience-Chamber, the Hall of
St. George, where the Emperor gives audience
to Foreign Ambassadors ; and the Salle
Blanche, where the Court-festivals are held,
its decorations white and gold ; and the room
containing the Crown-jewels.

The Hermitage was built by the Empress
Catherine II. It is a palace of wonders. Its
numberless apartments are filled with articles
of every kind, cameos, jewels, snuff-boxes of
incalculable cost, arms, ivory-carvings, draw-
ings, manuscripts, books, the most recherche
ornaments in marble, malachite, jasper, etc.
Impossible, without seeing it, to form the
faintest idea of its internal magnificence. Four
days are requisite to examine this palace pro-
perly.

The Court Theatre is well worthy of in-
spection.

The Picture- Gallery is combined from many
other galleries purchased to form it, the
English Houghton Gallery, the Galleries of
Malmaison, of the Prince Giustiniani, of Hope
of Amsterdam, of the Count Briihl of Dres-
den, of Crozat of Paris, of Count Baudouin
of Paris, and numerous others. Amongst its
most famous gems are Murillo's Martyrs,
and Death of the First Inquisitor ; Guido's
Europa, and Holy Family; Salvator
Rosa's Prodigal Son; Domenichino's
Christ, and St. Mark; Leonardo da
Vinci's Sibyl; Raffaelle's Holy Family;
Rembrandt's Prodigal Son, and Abra-
ham offering up Isaac ; Caravaggio's Mar-
tyrdom of St. Peter, etc. Master-pieces of
the Flemish and Dutch schools abound. Por-
traits of the Imperial Family are here.

The Michailoff Palace is situated on the

Fontanka Canal. It is built of granite.
Gloomy, it looks more like a prison than a
palace. It was built by the Emperor Paul, at
a cost of Eighteen millions of roubles, in an
incredibly short time. The interior is magni-
ficent. The room in which the Emperor
died is walled up. The Russians never enter
the room where a parent has died.

The Taurida Palace was built by the
Empress Catherine II., and presented to her
favourite Potemkin. Returning Conqueror of
the Crimea, the entertainments given to him
by his Imperial Mistress exceeded in splendour
almost anything one can imagine. One ball-
room here was illuminated by 20,000 lights,
and the musicians were " blotted from sight "
in magnificent chandeliers !

The Annitchkoff Palace is a residence of the
Emperor. It is situated on the Grand Prospekt.
It was built by the Empress Catherine II.

The Admiralty, on the left quay, is a mon-
strous brick-building. Its gilt tower, erected
by the Empress Anne in the year 1734, is one
of the most striking objects to the Tourist's
eye in approaching St. Petersburg.

The Statue of Peter the Great stands at the
western corner of the Admiralty. The great
Emperor is represented in the attitude of
mounting a rock. The artist, Falconet, took
his design from one of the first Equestrians
of the age, who, seated on a fiery steed, rode
to the top of an artificial height, there halted,
and encouraged the horse to paw the air with
his forefoot. The Emperor's right hand is
stretched out in the act of blessing.

The Monolith, behind the Hermitage, in an
open space, is one of the finest in the world.
It is a single shaft of red granite 84 feet high,
14 feet in diameter, highly polished. It sur-
mounts a pedestal of the same material,
25 feet high. The shaft, surrounded by a
capital 1 6 feet high, is crowned by the figure
of an angel, emblematical of Religion, a figure
14 feet high and, overtopping all, a cross 7
feet high; in all, 150 feet. The inscription is
" To Alexander the First, Grateful Russia."

The Cathedral, dedicated to " our Lady of
Kazan," is situated on the Nevskoi Prospekt.
It is built after the model of St. Peter's at
Rome. In front are statues of the Prince of
Smolensko and Barclay de Tolly. The
Madonna of Kazan is covered with jewels of
untold value. On the sides of the church are
Military trophies, Keys of surrendered cities,
etc., etc.

The Isak Church was built by the Emperor
Nicholas. It is nearly opposite the Isak
2Q4

RUSSIA.

bridge, and behind the statue of Peter the
Great. The foundation of sunken piles on
\vhich it stands cost 2oo,ooo/. Four entrances,
such ornamented with a porch supported by
polished granite pillars 60 feet high by 7 feet
in diameter. Immense cupola plated with
gold, over which is a smaller cupola sur-
mounted by a great cross, and flanked by
four smaller cupolas in the same style.
Columns in the interior of solid malachite.
Shrine cost a quarter of a million sterling.
Steps of porphyry, floor of variegated marbles,
the dome malachite, and the walls lapis-
lazuli, the whole magnificently gilded, a
marvel of outlay.

The Smolnoi Church is entirely different
from the other churches. Built of white
marble. Surmounted by five blue domes
ornamented with golden stars. On the sides
of the church are apartments for 500 Young
Ladies of noble birth who are here educated,
300 at the expense of their Families, and 200
at the expense of the State.

The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is
recognizable by its gilded spire. It was
founded by Peter the Great in the year 1712.
It contains the tombs of the Emperors and
Empresses of Russia since then to the present
period, with one exception (Peter II. was
buried at Moscow,)

The Cottage of Peter the Great. In this he
lived at the time of the building of St. Peters-
burg. It has three rooms. Numerous relics
of him are here.

The Monastery of St. Alexander Nevskoi
is situated on the Nevskoi Prospekt. It was
commenced by Peter the Great, and finished
by the Empress Catherine. Here are the
Tomb of Alexander, of solid silver, surmounted
by Angels, and some fine paintings by Guido
and Rubens.

The Arsenal exhibits every variety of arms
and military trophies, standards of all nations,
keys of captured fortresses, fac -similes of the
fortresses themselves, and all the panoply of
glorious war.

The Museum, founded and modelled by
Peter the Great after that of the Academy of
Sciences at Paris, contains a General museum,
an Egyptian museum, a museum of Costumes,
and the museum of Peter the Great. The last
is most note -worthy. It illustrates the handi-
craft of that most remarkable man. It would
seem as if there were sufficient articles in this
museum alone to have occupied a whole life-
time, every one of which however was only
the work of his leisure hours !

295

The Foundling-Hospital was founded by
the Empress Catherine II. in the year 1770.
It occupies nearly 30 acres of ground in the cen-
tre of the city, and can accommodate about 6000
little ones. The sole question asked of the
Depositor is "Has this child been already
baptized or no ? " The Deposit's name and
number are then entered on a register, with
date when received. The Foundlings are
farmed-out in the country among the peasantry
to be nursed ; and at the age of six years they
are returned to the Hospital to be educated
and turned to industrial purpose.

The Lying-in-Hospital rejoices in all the
secrecy attending that of Vienna. The
Enceinte may enter the hospital one month
before her " confinement," remain until
she shall have entirely recovered, and then
depart, unquestioned and untaxed.

The Theatres of St. Petersburg are ad mirably
conducted. Russian and German Plays and
Operas are performed at the Alexander and
Bolskoi Theatres, and French plays at the St.
Michael Theatre.

The Catherines choff is the great summer
resort of the people. It has restaurants,
cafes, bowling-grounds, band, concerts, etc.

THE PALACE OF TZARSKO-SELO.

Tzarsko-Selo is forty minutes by rail from
St. Petersburg. The decorations of the rooms
are of unutterable price. The grounds are
1 8 miles in circumference, charmingly ordered
by 600 military veterans.

FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.

Railway in 15 hours.

The approach to the ancient capital of the
Slavonians, rising bright in the cold surround-
ing solitude, produces an impression on the
new-comer never to be forgotten. A thousand
pointed steeples, star-spangled belfries, airy
turrets, strangely-shaped towers, palaces,
mansions, and old convents, the bodies of
all which are yet concealed from sight, pierce
strangely the air.

MOSCOW.

Moscow has a population of 600,000. It
was the Ancient Metropolis of the Empire. It
is situated on the Moskva river, which con-
tributes its waters by the channel of the Oka
to the great stream of the Volga. It was
founded in the year 1147. It was regular
in design before the conflagration of the year
1812, when its sacrifice so fatally influenced
the destiny of the First Napoleon. With the
exception of the Kremlin and its immediate

296

KUSSIA.

surroundings, the whole of the city was des-
troyed before the advance of the French army
in the year 1812. Now, it presents the most
extraordinary contrasts, palaces alternating
with huts, more splendid than before, but
most grotesque, half-Asiatic, half-European.

In June, 1876, a fatal fire broke out, which
destroyed one-fourth of the city.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Kremlin, the very centre and heart of
the city. It is somewhat more than two miles
in circumference. The chief entrance to this
great fortress is an arched portal, painted red,
which from the earliest times has been called
the Holy Gate. It has borne, from the founda-
tion of the city, a picture of the Saviour, which
is an object of the greatest reverence to every
Russian. No person of any nation passes
under it without uncovering the head. Up to
this gate time after time have victorious hordes
advanced, but never been able to find entrance.
The French in 1812 tried to remove the pic-
ture, but every ladder they set against the wall
broke; they attempted to batter the picture
with cannon, but the powder would not ignite !
Through this gate all Russia's heroes have
passed in triumph.

Within the walls of the Kremlin are to be
seen nearly all the interesting and historical
sights of Moscow. On entering, the stranger
finds himself surrounded with churches, pal-
aces, and shops of every description, crowded
together in confused magnificence, and pro-
ducing a spectacle presented by no other spot
of equal extent in the world. " Beneath our
feet," says Dr. Herderson, " lay the Kremlin,
with its two-and-thirty churches, magnificent
edifices, etc., etc., one of the wonders of the
world." Its monasteries, arsenals, museums,
buildings of almost every imaginable kind in
the Tartar style of architecture, with gilded
domes and cupolas, towers of every form,
round, square, and with pointed roofs, belfries
donjons, turrets, spires, sentry-boxes fixed
upon minarets, watch-towers, walls embattle-
mented and pierced with loop-holes, ramparts
fortifications, whimsical devices, incomprehen-
sible inventions, and steeples of every height
style, and colour, form a stupendous picture to
the eye, still more to the mind, the Kremlin's
own old pinnacles, reminding forcibly of those
gloomy times of fierce wars and barbarous
customs in which it arose impressions no
weakened when the eye catches

The Window which appears in the centre

It was thence that Demetrius, the Empero:

of a day, lowered himself with a rope down

297

he awful height into the court below, when
he cord proved of insufficient length, and he
was precipitated upon the pavement, and
lis shattered form, fell an immediate victim
o a savage multitude. At that window, alsc
t was that the Emperors sat, in all the pomp
of feudal majesty, to receive the petitions of
their people.

The Broad Stone- Staircase was the spot
where the victims of the insurrection in Peter
the Great's time shed their blood. And it was
down this staircase that the unfortunate John
Narishkin descended, when neither the prayers
of the aged Patriarch, who, clasping him by
the hand, held forth the image of the Virgin
as his protectress, nor the tears and entreaties
of his Sisters and the Princesses, could induce
the multitude to forego the sacrifice of his
life to their long-determined vengeance.

The Model of the Kremlin, made by com-
mand of the Empress Catherine, is one of the
most curious things in Moscow. Had the
original design after which it was formed
been completed, this fortress, it may be safely
affirmed, would have been the wonder of the
world.

The Terema Building, four stories in
height, was formerly used as a residence for
the Emperors.

The Bolskoi Devoretz is built on the site of
the old Tartar Palace.

The Cathedral of the Assumption, in the
Kremlin, is that in which the Emperors are
crowned. The magnificence of its furniture
and ornaments rendered it one of the chief
scenes of violence and spoliation during the
conflagration of the year 1812. The French
soldiers erected a furnace at one end of this
church and began to melt the gold and silver
vessels which they found in its sanctuary ; but
in the midst of their proceedings the trumpets
sounded the retreat, and they were obliged to
leave the best part of their sacrilegious spoils
behind. Its present objects of interest and
relics are numerous, noticeable are its golden
Mount Sinai, a golden Case which contains
the Host, on top a golden Moses with the
Tables of the Law. Note the Bible of Peter
the Great's Mother, the binding covered with
emeralds and other precious stones, cost a
quarter of a million sterling. Here are also
a nail from the true Cross, a robe of the
Saviour, and a portion of one of the Virgin's,
etc., etc.

The Synodalni Dom, or the House of the
Holy Synod, is the place where the Mir, or
the Holy Oil, is preserved, with which all
298

RUSSIA.

children in Russia are baptized. It is said to
be sanctified by some drops of the same oil
that Mary used in anointing the feet of the
Saviour at Bethany.

The Arkhangelsk Labor, or Cathedral of
the Archangel Michael, is the resting-place of
all the Czars down to Peter the Great.

Tlie Church of the Annunciation is exceed-
ingly beautiful. Note the onyx-stones wrought
into cameos, representing the Child Jesus and
the Virgin. The sixteen massive silver vases,
each large enough to contain three or four
gallons, were given by the Emperor Paul, to
receive the consecrated oil. The highly deco-
rated floor is paved with agate, jasper, cor-
nelian, etc.

The Treasury has relics of great value,
among which are the Crowns of Conquered
Kings and Countries, the throne of Peter the
Great, and those of various other Czars of
Russia.

The Arsenal, to the right of the Senate,
contains sufficient weapons to arm 150,000
men. In the court are cannon taken from
different European powers, England alone
except. The French are in great number,
there being here nearly all those captured by
the Russians during the disastrous retreat of
the year 1812.

The Tower of Ivan Veliki, 280 feet high, is
worth the ascent, on account of the magnifi-
cent view its summit commands. Below it is

The Great Bell of Moscow, 68 feet in cir-
cumference.

The Terrace of the Kremlin " affords," says
Dr. Clarke, " a view fit for the finest subject
of a panorama. The number of magnificent
buildings, the domes, the towers, the spires,
filling all the prospect, make it, perhaps, one
of the most extraordinary sights in Europe."

The Church of St. Basil, outside the Krem-
lin-walls, has twenty domes and towers of
different shapes and sizes, gilded and painted
in all possible variety of colours, quite Kaleido-
scopic. It was erected by Ivan the Terrible,
who, it is said, was so pleased with the work
of the ill-fated Italian Architect that after
eulogizing his skill, he ordered his eyes to be
put out, that he might never erect another as
superb !

The University is fine. Its pupils amount
annually to a thousand.

The Theatres of Moscow are the Alexander
Theatre for Russian opera and drama; the
French Theatre for French Pieces ; and the
People's Theatre for pantomime.
299

rKTF.KSKOI.

Peterskoi Palace and Garden, a short dis-
tance beyond the walls of the city, form the
great resort of the populace on summer even-
ings. There are booths, restaurants, cafes,
tea-gardens, and theatre. The palace is small.
It was occupied by Napoleon I. on his fatal
invasion, and from here, in sight of the blazing
city, he dictated the intelligence for France.

The Imperial Villa, at the Sparrow Hills,
commands a magnificent view of the city and
its surroundings.

THE MONASTERY OF TROITZA.

(The Holy Trinity.)

This most remarkable place is easily visited
from Moscow. It is reached quickly by rail.
The first morning-train should be taken. The
Church-service should be attended at 9^
o'clock. Breakfast can then be had at an
hotel close to the monastery ; after which the
various churches can be visited, and Moscow
can be returned to about 3 o'clock p.m.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral of the Assumption, or Os-
penski Labor, is the most stately of the
buildings, a construction of the Sixteenth
century, under the reign of the man-monster,
Ivan the Terrible. The vaulted interior springs
from four massive pillars, which divide the
building into nine compartments. The walls
are covered with fresco-paintings, designed to
illustrate Holy Writ, gaudy and glaring. The
Iconastas, or screen, separating the Holy
Place of the chancel from the body of the
church, consists of rows of pictures of saints.

The Cathedral of Troitza is built over the
tomb of St. Serge. The shrine of the saint,
in which his relics are preserved, is of solid
silver, elaborately chased, and gilt ; covered
by a massy canopy, and supported by columns.
An image of St. Serge, on a panel of the
shrine, is regarded by the people as possessed
of miraculous virtues. Of this, Peter the
Great made use as a palladium, in his wars
with Charles the Twelfth. The shrine glitters
with gold, and silver, and precious stones, the
votive offerings of wealthy devotees, and
princely penitents. Pilgrims of every rank
and age now ilock indiscriminately hither to
kiss the forehead and the hand of the defunct,
and to obtain the benediction of the priest.

The belfry is upwards of 260 feet high,
consisting of five square stories, adorned with
columns and statues, contracting as they rise
300

RUSSIA.

one above the other, and surmounted by a
mass of roof-gilding, upon the summit of which
is a great gilt ball.

The Treasury, or Riznitza, consists of ten
rooms, filled with the most costly objects,
such as the sacerdotal vestments, panagions,
mitres, palls for shrines, coverings for altars,
bibles, missals, chalices, crosses, all blazing

with an inconceivable profusion of pearls,
diamonds, and precious stones of every kind,
gold and silver, studded with gems. One
altar-piece alone is estimated at a million and
a half of roubles, about 36,ooo/., and the
dress worn by the Abbot on High Festivals is
estimated at 18,0001

TURKEY.

Turkey in Europe has an extent of 700
miles long by 700 miles broad.

Topography. Mountainous.

Climate. Healthy.

Temperature. Temperate. Only severe in
the winter on the north and the higher
mountains.

Divisions. Nine provinces. Servia, Wal-
lachia, Moldavia, Montenegro, nominally of
the number, slightly tributary.

Population. Fifteen millions.

Government. Despotism, the head of the
empire the Sultan.

Manufactures. None of importance ; cot-
ton, silk, leather.

Turk versus Greek. On the continent and
the islands, it is the Greek peasant who works,
and thrives ; the Turk reclines, smokes, and
decays. The Greek village increases its popu-
lation and teems with children; in the Turkish
villages are roofless walls and crumbling
mosques. The Greek military hospitals are
perfect models of arrangement and good order.
When the partial splendours of the Turkish
Capital and the great State-establishments are
left, there is nothing over the broad surface of
a land which nature and climate have favoured
beyond all others, once the home of all art
and all civilization, but deserted villages, un-
cultivated plains, banditti-haunted mountains,
torpid laws, and corrupt administration.

Outlined Tour. Continuing our ' General
Continental Tour," Constantinople can be
reached from Vienna or Trieste, see under
" AusxRO-HuNGARiAN EMPIRE," either by
the Danube-route continued, or by the Adri-
atic-route, coasting the Herzegovina, Monte-
negro, and Greece.

FIRST ROUTE TO CONSTANTI-
NOPLE.

By the Danube.

FROM VIENNA TO BUKUREST.

There are two grand routes. The first
route must be made in the winter, when the
Danube-boats cease to run. By rail to Cra-
cow, and thence, through Lemberg and Czer-
nowitz in Galicia, into Moldavia. This

303

journey requires fifty hours of incessant travel-
ling. It is very interesting, though certainly
less picturesque than the river-route. Galicia
is a fine, thriving, well-cultivated land, and
Cracow and Lemberg are fully deserving of
more notice than we can give them. But the
Danube-route is the one par excellence.

DOWN THE DANUBE FROM BEL-
GRADE.

The fast steamers are marvels of comfort,
and the society that one meets on board is
usually first-class and highly entertaining.

BELGRADE.

Belgrade, the Capital of Servia, has a popu-
lation of 80,000. It is situated on the right
bank of the Danube, at the junction of that
river with the Save, and opposite the pretty
little Austrian town of Semlin. The Danube
here makes a sharp curve, at the two extremi-
ties of which stand Belgrade and Semlin,
respectively the frontier-towns of Servia and
Austria, separated by the Save, but on the
same bank of the Danube. Most picturesque
is the appearance of this old town, the scene
of many conflicts between Austrian and Turk,
and the fortress of which even as late as 1862
was bombarded by the Ottoman forces. Like
all Eastern towns Belgrade looks charming,
the white minarets, and the trim little houses,
each seemingly placed in the middle of a plea-
sant garden, standing out picturesquely against
the richly clad hills of the neighbourhood. On
landing, however, all their beauty is tempered
by the dirt and disagreeable odours so charac-
teristic of Eastern cities. Belgrade possesses
Government Offices, Museum, Public Schools,
and many handsome houses.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Cathedral^ with lofty spire. Service
of the Greek Church.

The Fortress, originally built by the Aus-
trians, then counted impregnable ; since
ruined.

Continuing the Danube with Servia on the
right, the appearance of cultivation grows
scanty. The river, now augmented by its

304

TURKEY.

chief tributaries, the Drave, Theiss, and Save,
spreads out more widely.

BASIASH

is reached. From hence there is railway to
Vienna on one side, and *o Bukurest
(Bucharest) on the other.

The aspect of the Danube beiow Basiash is
sublime in the extreme. Lofty mountains rise
on either side of the rushing river, covered
with magnificent trees and luxuriant verdure
down to the very water's edge; and lovely
islets, overgrown with soft woodland, just
appear above the stream's blue surface, inviting
the imagination to dreams of poetry and
romance. To the whole route more or less of
history is attached. The fortresses and towers,
here and there garrisoned by Turkish soldiers,
often changed masters in the times of the old
Hungarian wars.

MOLDOVA

is passed. Shortly below this the river enters
a defile of steep, rocky, wooded hills, flanked
by a Castle on one side and a Tower opposite,
after the Rhenish manner ; but it soon sur-
passes its German brother-flood. The cliffs
rise as high as 2,000 feet ; and the monarch of
European rivers, with its Drave, and Save, and
Theiss, is so hemmed in as in one place to be
only 145 yards across. There are vestiges in
the perpendicular rock of sockets for the beams
which supported a Causeway made by Trajan
during his Dacian campaigns ; and a slate of
rock is pointed out on which an inscription to
commemorate them can still be deciphered.

ORSOVA

is the frontier-town on the left bank of the
river between Austria and Wallachia, where
baggage is examined upon the part of both
states. The town is prettily nestled in hills.

Below, a Turkish fort and island command
the river.

THE IRON GATES.

This famous portion of the Danube had till
lately been thought impassable by steam-
boats ; but a bold captain in the existing
company's service made the trial one fine day,
and all the world has followed.

SOZORENY

is the Roman Severinum, a model of pictures-
que filthiness.

WIDIN, OR VIDIN

makes a show from the river, with trees, and
minarets, but is squalid within.

The shore of Bulgaria, which now lies on

305

the right side of the river, is more varied and
elevated than the opposite Wallachia. The
Tourist is now amidst

THE DANTJBIAN PRINCIPALITIES.

Rail-ways. The chief are from Giurgevo
on the Danube, to Bukurest ; from Bukurest
to Galatz, the principal trading city in
Roumania ; and from Bukurest to Galicia,
with a branch line to Jassy.

The High Roads are generally good and
well kept. They are served by diligences.
Those among the Carpathian passes are
especially worthy of notice. The Princess
of Roumania spends almost every summer in
the secluded monastery of Sinaia in the midst
of the most splendid mountain scenery, where
only the experienced traveller can imagine the
contrast between the pure air of the Highlands
and the stifling atmosphere of the Metropolis
in the months of July and August.

GIURGEVO,

on the Danube, serves as a port to Bukurest.
It has an indigenous look of discomfort and
decrepitude. Ravines of streets, sheds of
vehicles, naked, tattered, picturesque varieties
of costume, and other aspects of barbarism.
Mazeppa's tomb is here.

It is in Crajova, Bukurest, and Jassy that all
life centres.

The smaller towns are dirty and wretched
in every respect, unpaved, contain few shops
or good dwelling houses, and are filled chiefly
by the lower orders and Jews, who are any-
thing but popular in the Principalities. Swine
run secure and unmolested about the main
streets, and dust in summer and slush and
snow in winter render both towns and villages
most undesirable places of permanent sojourn.

RUSTCHUK

is opposite Giurgevo. Direct railway hence
to Varna for Constantinople.

From Giurgevo and Rustchuk to Galatz,
either railway or steamer can be taken.

DOWN THE DANUBE FROM GALATZ.

The dark-blue hills of the Lesser Balkan
now stand out clear and sharp-edged on the
right against the lighter blue of the usually
glorious summer-looking sky, seeming as if
they were within easy reach of the Bulgarian
shore, an hour or so's walk for a stout
pedestrian. The Turkish or right bank of
the great stream, even within a hundred miles
of its vast mouths, is characterized by con-
[ 306

TURKEY.

siderable natural beauty, whereas the Rou
manian or left rivage is uniformly anc
monotonously tame. From Galatz to Sulina
following what is called the Sulina-branch
(thus named to distinguish it from the Kilia
and St. George arms of Father Danube)
there is not a hill to be seen 20 feet high on
the left bank of the river. Enormous level
plains, clothed with maize, rank pasture, or
"\vaving reeds, stretch away from the water-
side till they are lost on the horizon. The
chief living things seen in these steppes are,
at rare intervals, herds of the little grey
bullocks without which no Roumanian
landscape is complete, huge, angry-looking
brown vultures, flapping their heavy wings on
the riverposts of the Danube-Commission, or
flying slowly over then- hunting-grounds in
search of prey, sleek herons, audacious
grey crows, and, as our steamer nears the
Black Sea, gulls of various colours, cormo-
;rants, pelicans, flamingoes, and mosquitoes,
the sanguinary volatiles of the Lower Danube,
who, if you should be blind, or otherwise
physically incapacitated from perceiving them
Avith your ocular sense, take care to impress
the fact of their existence upon you in the
.most unmistakable manner.

on the Kilia-branch, the best-known town of
Roumanian Bessarabia, a Russo-Moldavian
Jewish town, was the scene of the Riots
which aroused the strong and universal indig-
nation of all the more civilized countries of
Europe in the year 1872 : their object being
to expel the Jews from this country, or, if the
most violent and brutal persecution failed to
frighten them, to effect their general massacre.
A robbery of plate from the Cathedral of the
Christians was made the pretext for this
modern attempt to rival the bigotry of past
days.

TULTCHA,

on the St. George-branch, is a Turkish garri-
son-town. It has a population of 20.000,
chiefly Greeks, Russians, and Jews. It is
picturesquely situated on the slope of some
leafy hills, and extremely pretty to look at
(always be it understood, from a distance).
It is a fruit and vegetable-growing place, and
grinds corn in a number of highly conspicuous
wind-mills that crown the brown bluff over-
hanging the eastern part of the town.

307

SULINA.

As soon as we quit what is called the
" Great Danube," and enter the Sulina-branch,
the land en both sides is Turkish, as far as eye
cnn reach, and continues to be so down to the
Black Sea. Indeed, all three "branches"
are really in the hands of Turkey, which keeps
up a goodly staff of gunboats to look after the
Danube-mouths; and the Roumanians, though
the left bank of the Kilia-branch is theirs down
to the sea, derive no advantage from it. The
Sulina-branch is the only one of the three
navigable for large vessels. It is a river-monu-
ment of British intelligence and perseverance.
To Sir Charles Hartley, the engineer of the
Danube Commission, is due this work of ines-
timable value to European commerce a work
carried out, in its every detail, with an almost
incredible completeness. The swift, though
mud-laden, river is compelled to clear out its
own bed, and keep it clear, by a variety of
arrangements that seem exquisitely simple
when they are explained, but which are the
outcome of many years' unwearied study of
the Danubian delta, and of an unusual degree
of ingenuity on the part of then- contriver.
Sulina itself, with its two splendid piers, light-
houses, and harbour, is the creation of the
Danube-Commission. It is a dreadfully ugly
little place, and appallingly dull. Its popu-
lation may be backed for heterogeneousness
against that of any other town of its size in
Europe, being composed of Little-Russians
Lipovans, Turks, Greeks, Germans, Italians,
Dalmatians, Bulgarians, Roumans, English,
and Jews. It possesses a British Church, but
no certain chaplain ; a handsome Commission
House ; Greek and Roman-Catholic Churches ;
a Mosque; innumerable Ship-chandlers and
Workshops ; and actually no place of amuse-
rrent whatever! The inhabitants live from
shipping, grain, coal, and fisheries. The whole
attraction of the visitor is concentrated in tha
Commission- Works, and their magnificent
oadway of Commerce.

Sulina seems the end of the world, as of the
Danube a little further Eastward, and surely
we should tumble over the edge into space.
The place has a forlorn, fragmentary, chaotic
aspect. Plenty of shipping line the river-banks ;
)ut the smart screw-steamers and handsome
:lippers look strangely out of keeping with
he wretched sheds and miserable shanties in
,vhich the Sulinese live, transact their busi-
ness, and, what seems most natural of all to
he surroundings, die.
308

TURKEY.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

The Capital of Turkey has a population of
1,000,000 ; one-fourth are Christians. It was
founded by Byzas, from whom it derived the
name Byzantium, B.C. 656. In A.D. 328, it
was made by Constantine the Capital of the
Roman Empire, since which time it has borne
his name. It has sustained numerous sieges,
but has been only twice taken ; first, in the
year 1204, by the Crusaders, who retained it
till the year 1261 ; and lastly, by the Turks,
under Mohammed II. in 1453, when the
Roman Empire finally fell.

The Bosphorus is the broad river which
connects the Sea of Marmora and the Black
Sea.

The Golden Horn is a narrow arm of sea
which branches from the Bosphorus, and
which, curving around, divides the City in the
middle. Galata and Pera are on the side of
the Bosphorus : Stamboul, ancient Byzan-
tium, is upon the other side of the Golden
Horn. On the other bank of the Bosphorus
are Scutari and other suburbs of Constanti-
nople. Constantinople, seen from the Bos-
phorus, is one of the handsomest cities in the
world. Its dense array of houses swelling
upward from the water's edge, spreading over
many hills, gardens that peep out here and
there, the great globes of the mosques, and
the countless minarets that meet the eye
everywhere, invest the Metropolis with the
Oriental aspect that gives its special charm to
Eastern travel.

CONSTANTINOPLE IITa

The interior of the City is a perfect laby-
rinth of winding, steep, dirty streets, without
name or plan of any kind, and with houses
which are, for the most part, built of wood
309

and present dead walls to the street, light and
air being, as in all Oriental towns, derived
from the interior court-yards. In these narrow
streets, people are thicker than mosquitoes,
and dressed in all the outrageous costumes
that can be conceived. No freak in dress too
crazy to be indulged in, no absurdity too
absurd to be tolerated, no frenzy in rag too
fantastic to be attempted. No two men dress
alike. Every struggling throng in every street
is a dissolving view of contrasts. Some don
awe-inspiring turbans, but the mass of the
infidels wear the fiery red skull-cap, called a
fez. Beggars, who beg for ever, yet never
collect anything; cripples distorted out of all
semblance of humanity; vagabonds driving
laden asses ; porters carrying dry-goods-boxes
as large as cottages on their backs ; pedlars
of grapes, hot corn, pumpkin-seeds, and a
hundred other things ; squads of Turkish
women drifting noiselessly about, draped from
chin to feet in flowing robes, with snowy veils
bound about their heads, that disclose only
the eyes, and insinuate a vague, shadowy
notion of their features, seen moving about
far away in the dim aisles of the Great Bazaar,
looking like the shrouded dead just walked
forth from their graves ; and, sleeping serenely
among the hurrying feet, the famed Dogs ot
Constantinople ; there is the City in faint
colours !

Writes Turner: "Amid the novelties that
strike the European on his arrival, nothing
surprises him more than the silence that
pervades so large a capital. The only sounds
by day are the cries of bread, fruits, sweet-
meats, or sherbet, carried in a large wooden
tray on the head of the itinerant vendor, and at
intervals the barking of the dogs. The con-
trast between Constantinople and a European
city is still more strongly marked at night ; by
10 o'clock every human voice is hushed, and
not a creature is seen in the streets except a
few patrols, and the innumerable number ot
dogs, who at intervals send forth such repeated
bowlings that it requires practice to be able to
sleep in spite of their noise. This silence is
frequently disturbed by fire, whereon the fire-
men assemble, and all the inhabitants in the
neighbourhood are immediately on the alert."
The Ramadan is the Mohammedan Lent.
The Moslem is then forbidden to take food,
drink, smoke, or snuff, from sun-rise to sun-
set. On the setting of the sun a cannon is
fired, and then commences a scene of revelry ;
the Mosques and Coffee-houses open, the
minarets are illuminated, and the Faithfull

3 IO

TURKEY.

drink, smoke, and carouse in their quiet way
until morning.

The Bairam, which succeeds the Ramadan,
lasts three days, and is a time of unmixed
festivity ; every Turk dons his holiday attire,
and general hilarity prevails.

The Feast of Sacrifice, or Coorhan Bairam,
follows in ten weeks, and lasts four days, dur-
ing which business is everywhere suspended.

Vehicles. The place of the Gondola of
Venice is supplied by the light Caique, of
which 100,000 ply, elegant in their construc-
tion, and gliding over the waters with great
rapidity. Fares; to cross the Golden Horn,
half-a-piastre ; to land, with baggage, from
steamer, 5 piastres ; from the Custom-house
to Tophani, 2 piastres ; for the day, 20
piastres.

Time. The least possible time for seeing
the city and suburbs, ten days.

Ladies are recommended to be content with
the Seraglio, St. Sophia, the Sultan Achmed's
Mosque, and the Hippodrome.

Fountains ornament almost every street,
piazza, and mosque, and are generally painted
or gilded.

Public Baths are numerous and cheap.
The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Grand Bazaar. It is of great extent,
with streets, passages, and fountains, a city in
itself.

The Seraglio is nearly three miles in circum-
ference. It occupies the site of the ancient
Byzantium. It is shut in by lofty walls with
gates and towers. The entry is by a high
semi-circular arched Portal (whence the term
" Sublime Porte ") overlaid with Arabic
inscriptions, and kept by 50 porters. At the
sides of the gateway, the heads of State-
offenders are publicly exposed.

The Mosque of St. Sophia was commenced
in the year 531 by the Emperor Justinian, and
completed in 538. One hundred architects
and zoo master-masons were employed on the
building for seven and a half years. The
Mosque is in form of a Greek cross, 270 feet
long, 243 feet wide ; surmounted in the cen-
tre by a dome, the middle of which is 180 feet
above the floor. St. Sophia is the point round
which so much of history, of regrets, and of
anticipations centre. Within this precinct
Constantine, Theodosius, and Justinian wor-
shipped, and St. Chrysostom preached, and,
most affecting reminiscence of all, the last
Constantine received the Christian sacrament
upon the night that preceded his heroic death,
the capture of the imperial city, and the eleva-

tion of the .Crescent above the Cross. Apart
even from all associations, profoundly striking
are the general appearance and effect of the
building itself, its bold simplicity of plan,
the noble span of the wide cupola, measuring,
in diameter, 115 feet, the gilded roofs, the
quarries of marble which encrust the walls, the
porphyry from the Temple of the Sun at Baal-
bee, the verde-antique from the Temple of Diana
at Ephesus. These walls have echoed to the
Hymn to the Latoidae, the chant to the Virgin,
the Muezzin's call to prayer.

The Mosque of the Sultan Achmed has six
minarets, the only mosque in the Ottoman
Empire which has so many.

The Mosque of Solyman the Magnificent,
called the Suleimanye, is of noble dimensions,
and has four enormous red columns.

The Hippodrome, the celebrated scene of
Byzantine faction and frivolity, possesses a
famous Egyptian Obelisk and Brazen pillar.
The building is 900 feet long, and 450 feet
wide. The ancient building was modelled
upon the Circus at Rome. After the taking
of Constantinople by the Crusaders, its works
of art were carried away to every other part
of Europe ; the four famous horses to Venice,
where they now adorn St. Mark's.

The Cemeteries are among the greatest
beauties of Constantinople. They are orna-
mented with dark Turkish Cypress.

THE SHORES OF THE BOSPHORUS

are lined on either side with numerous villages,
castles, and palaces, through the whole extent
of the channel. Steamers ply.

ON THE EUROPEAN SHORE.

The Palace of Dolma-Baghtche.

The Palace of Beschicktasche, the favourite
abode of the Sultans in the fine season.

Orta-Keni, a large village.

The Palace of Riza Pacha.

The Mosque of the Sultana Valide.

The Palace of Mehemet All Pacha, brother-
in-law of the late Sultan.

Kour'on-Schechme. Here Medea landed
with Jason, on his return from Colchis. Con-
stantine built a church here in honour of
Michael, the Archangel. In the Fifth cen-
tury Simeon Stylites erected the pillar here,
upon which he passed the remainder of his
life.

Arnaout-Keni. Small village inhabited by
Greeks.

Bebek is one of the prettiest bays on the
312

TURKEY.

Bosphorus. Here are a summer-pavilion of the
Sultan, Mosque, and Baths.

Between Bebek and Roumili-Kissar is the
narrowest part of the channel. The current is
very swift, and is called by the Turks Sheitan-
Akindisi, " Satan's current."

Roumili-Kissar, the " Castle of Europe,"
was built by Mohammed II., in the year 1451.
Three thousand masons were employed in its
construction. The whole was finished in three
months. Immediately on its completion Mo-
hammed began the siege of Constantinople.

Balta-Liman. The Palace, once of Reschid
Pacha, since belonging to his son, Etham
Pacha. Here were signed Treaties of the years
1838, 1841, and 1849.

Stenia, called by the ancients Stenos.

Yeni-Keni. Its site and surroundings very
lovely.

Therapia, formerly called Pharmateia, from
the poison distributed here by Medea when in
pursuit of Jason of old. It was a place of
many fights between the Venetians and Ge-
noese. The shore is lined with cafes, hotels,
summer-houses, and gardens. The French
and English Ambassadors have their summer
palaces here.

Buyuk-Dere is so named from the great
valley which stretches several miles inland.
It is the last stopping-place of the steamers
making the excursion of the Danube, and just
before arriving is caught a glimpse of the
Black Sea. It is one of the most charming
summer-residences. Rich merchants of Con-
stantinople have their country-houses here,
whence they go to the city in the morning,
and return hither in the evening. Promenade
in the great valley. Seven plantains, called
the seven Brothers, are here : one is called the
plantain of Godfrey de Bouillon, a tradition
existing that he and his Crusading army en-
camped here in the year 1096.

An Excursion is often made from Buyuk-
Dere to Bagdtche-Keni and Belgrade. The
former is on the summit of the range of hills
surrounding the great valley of Buyuk-Dere.
The grand aqueduct of Mahmoud is visited.
About four miles further inland is Belgrade,
in the midst of a dense forest seventeen miles
in circumference. It must not be confounded
with the place of the same name on the Danube.

Roumili-Fener ends this shore of the Bos-
phorus. The three promontories which termi-
nate the European side have large batteries to
protect the entrance of the channel.

Opposite are the Cyanean Rocks, or Symple-
gades.

313

ON THE ASIATIC SHORE.

The fortress of Riva stands at the entrance
of the Bosphorus, to protect the channel on
this side.

Fanaraki and Poiras are next passed.

Fil-Bournou, or " the Elephant Cape," is
fortified.

Anadouli-Kavak Village, at the foot of
the promontory Hieron, is named from the fact
of Jason on his return from Colchis offering
sacrifices here.

The Giant's Mountain is the highest on the
shores of the Bosphorus. It rises 600 feet
above the level of the sea. It is called loucha -
Dagh by the Turks.

The ruins of the Church of St. Pantaleon,
built by Justinian.

The Tomb of Joshua.

Hounkiar-Iskelessi. A favourite residence
of the Sultans. Mohammed II. here built a
kiosk, and Soliman the Magnificent a palace,
which was again rebuilt by Mahmoud I., in
the year 1746. The present kiosk was built
by Mehemet Ali, Pacha of Egypt.

Bey-Kos. Formerly called the Bay of
Amycus, the King of the Bebryces having
been here slain by Pollux on the return of the
Argonautic expedition.

Kanlidge, " the bloody village." Fins kiosk
erected by Mehemet Ali.

Anadouli-Kissar, "the Castle of Asia,"
opposite Roumili-Kissar, and, like that for-
tress, built by Mohammed II.

The Sweet Waters of Asia is one of the most
charming spots on the Bosphorus, where the
Beauties of the Harem pass the summer-
months.

Kandili is named from the Light-house
which crowns the hill Idjadieh above the
village.

Koulleli. Here Soliman lay hid three years
from his father Selim I., who had condemned
him to death.

Beylerbey-Keni, a large village. Magnifi-
cent Palace, finished in the year 1867.

SCUTARI.

Scutari is regarded as a suburb of Constan-
tinople, although the sea is nearly a mile wide
between them.

The Mosque of the Sultana Valide has the
privilege of being illuminated during the nights
of the Ramadan, like the Imperial Mosques
in Constantinople.

The Cemetery, an immense wood of cypress-
trees, crossed by large alleys, extends nearly
three miles. The soil is considered sacred.

TURKEY

A cupola on six marble columns marks the
place where the Sultan Mahmoud buried a
favourite horse.

The Convent of the Rufai, or Howling-
Dervishes, is interesting : their manner of
worship is very curious.

TO ASCEND THE DANUBE

Take the Austrian Lloyds' steamer to
Varna ; thence by rail to Rustchuk ; whence by
Mail-steamer up the Danube to Basiash,
Vienna, etc.

TO VISIT THE CRIMEA

Take the weekly steamer to Sebastopol.
To Athens, steamers, in 41 hours.

SECOND BOTJTE TO CONSTANTI-
NOPLE.

By the Adriatic.

Leaving Trieste, see under "AuSTRO-
HUNGARIAN EMPIRE," the steamer passes
on the right of

THE HERZEGOVINA.

This now-famous district is about 220 miles
in length, 50 miles in breadth, separated from
the Adriatic by the Austrian province of Dal-
matia, with two narrow outlets to the sea, one
at Klex, and one at the Bocche di Cattaro.
Austria " would gladly have this little matter
differently arranged," but the Turk will not
cede; so, for the present, the Austrian Dal-
matia remains broken by this intrusive dis-
trict into three fragments. Long before the
Moslem planted his victorious banner on
Byzantium, wild Slave tribes wandered west,
and settled on the slopes of the Dinaric Alps
in this district now known as the Herzegovina.
These tribes were Christianized by the Eastern
Church ; and though subsequently the land
became subject to Moslem sway, the Slaves
have continued Christian. Between the
Herzegovina and the sea stands

RAGT7SA,

prominent of late as head-quarters for the
transmission of news of the progress of the
Herzegovinian events, a quaint and pic-
turesque town on a tongue of land at the foot
of a barren mountain, on which a powerful
modern fort commands the city. The har-
bour by which the city conducted its Mediaeval
commerce does not serve for the more capa-
cious ships of Modern times, and consequently
now at

GRAVOSA,

a mile to the north-west, is the commodious
Port, in beautiful scenery, where formerly the

315

Ragusans had their villas and gardens. From
here a capital road leads through charming
woods, mountains, orchards, and gardens to

RAGUSA.

Ragusa, with its graceful domes, cam-
panili, noble churches, public buildings, and
massive fortifications, presents a striking
spectacle, either from the sea or the adjacent
height.

The City of Ragusa has a population of
8,000. It is Austrian. No horse or carriage
is ever allowed to enter. It is approached by
draw-bridges, moats, and gateways frowning
in massive stone. The walls are of cream-
coloured limestone, variegated with the tints
of age. They rise in many parts to a height
of 70 feet. The town is traversed by the
Corso, or Stradone, a fine street, with a mas-
sive stone pavement. The houses are in the
Italian style, of great strength and solidity;
for Ragusa is subject to occasional earth-
quakes, and builds accordingly. The other
streets are mere lanes, quaint and artistic,
with curious shops. " The men of Ragusa
are splendid fellows in every physical respect ;
whilst the women, though amazingly strong,
are plain, with rugged, rough-hewn features,
large muscular development, and no 'figure.' "
The Manufactures are silk, leather, and
rosoglio. The glory of its commerce is de-
parted : time was when its argosies vied with
the fleets of Venice in the commerce of the
world. The inhabitants were renowned for
their skill in ship-building and their maritime
trade.

Richard I., Cceur-de-Lion, returning to
Europe from the Holy Land, landed at the
island of Lacroma, whose forts and villas are
so conspicuous from the south of Ragusa.
He founded a church as a thank-offering from
shipwreck, long noted for its beauty, destroyed
by an earthquake in the year 1667. It was
probably from this city that he set out
disguised as a merchant, on that journey to
Vienna which resulted in his captivity and
romantic discovery by Blondel.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Dogana, Gothic without and Oriental
within.

The Palace of the Rettore, Roman style,
with Gothic details.

The Cathedral is successor to the one built
by Richard Cceur-de-Lion. It possesses
an ancient Reliquary, with bones of saints,
set in gold. The city has been a very reli-
gious place, as the numerous churches testify.
Its patron-saint is Blasius.

TURKEY.

MONTENEGRO

follows on the left. In Turkish, Kara Dagh.
In native Slave, Zerna Gora. All its names
are taken from its " mountains dark with pine-
forests." The population are brave and hardy.
They number about 50,000. It is little more
than nominally tributary to Turkey.

CETIGNE.

Cetigne is the Capital, the smallest Capital
of Europe. Nevertheless it has succeeded in
making itself talked about all over the world.
It stands in the centre of almost the only
plain in Montenegro, the rest of the country
being a series of mountains looking like
immense waves of green sea petrified. The
people themselves say that " when God was
distributing stones over the earth, the bag
that held them burst, and let them all fall on
Montenegro. "

From Cattaro to Cetigne is a six-hours'
journey up a zigzag road like a ladder, with
hardly more than a thousand yards in a straight
line. The whole of the town and its surround-
ings resemble the Scotch Highlands. The
people mostly live in thatched cottages.
Lately a few two-storied Houses with slated
roofs, have been built.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Palace, erected by the present Prince,
is a civilized habitation, with the exterior of
a well-to-do farmer's residence in England.

The House of the President of the Senate
is opposite the Palace. In the space between
these two, overshadowing the Public Fountain,
stands

The Tree of Justice, where the Prince
decides all legal questions, and settles disputes
amongst his subjects.

The Resources of Montenegro are impossible
to be developed until Austria allows a sea-
port. Whatever the country produces in the
way of potatoes, vegetables, or dried fish, is
sold at the Austrian town of Cattaro, at much
less profit to the mountaineers than if they
could export them.

The Turkish Difficulty, engrossing all minds
now, starts from here. The vast region affected
directly by the action of Montenegro and
Servia may be roughly described as covering
the country bounded by the Danube and Save,
and a straight line drawn from Nicopolis to
Scutari and the Adriatic. Within these limits
are included all the districts directly concerned
in the issue, the mountain-block which consti-
tutes Servia, the highlands and plains of Bosnia
and Turkish Croatia, the hills and valleys

317

which make the Herzegovina so rude a field
of battle, and a wide sweep of the provinces
lying eastward in the direction of Constanti-
nople. The main line of Turkish communica-
tion with the site of the hostilities of 1876
runs from Constantinople by railway as far as
Sarembeg, on the Maritza, thence through
Sofia to Nissa by an ordinary road, while the
direct approach to Novi-Bazar, separated from
Nissa by a range of high hills, starts from
Saloniki, is carried by rail as far as Uskub
and Pristina, and afterwards, passing into the
valley of the Ibar, an affluent of the Morava,
proceeds into Bosnia. These two routes lead
to the immediate front of action, and along
these must move all the supplies, stores,
ammunition, not actually on the spot, which
the Turks require.

SALONIKI.

By rail from the Montenegro-side, or by sea
from the Greek-side.

To the North of Athens, and on the direct
route to Constantinople, the grand Gulf of this
name invites the Tourist's attention. In passing
up this beautiful inland sea, the ancient Ther-
maic Gulf, the Traveller beholds the most
famous mountain -scenery in the world. The
passes of Pelion and afterwards of Ossa on his
left ; beyond, the classical Vale of Tempe and
the " liquid Peneus ; " lastly, Olympus rearing
its lofty head above the blue gulf, the fabled
abode of the Gods themselves. From the
anchorage under the walls of Salonild, the
home of the Olympian Jove appears almost at
hand, so clear is the air usually in this favoured
region, which only wants good government to
be, as it was in the time of St. Paul, the most
flourishing and opulent port of the Levant.

Saloniki, or Salonica, has a populatioa of
80,000. It was the ancient Thessalonica. It
is a bright and busy city, one of the most
picturesque and lively ports of the JEgean.
It does a thriving business in tobacco, wool,
hides, slippers, and sweetmeats, and, with
people of all countries buying and selling in
its bazaars, it seems much too cosmopolitan
and practical for Theological riots. It stands,
a square white -walled city, upon slopes of
vine and olive-hills at the head of the Gulf.
But, like all the towns under Ottoman sway, it
is miserably neglected. Hundreds of acres of
gloomy cemetery around show the heavy toll
that the dirt, the bad drainage, and demorali-
sation of the place exact.

In the Past Saloniki has terrible memories.
One of the most awful massacres ever perpe-

TURKEY.

trated took place in this fair city when Theo-
dosius the Great, in revenge for the murder of
one of his favourite Actors, actually put 7000
of the inhabitants to the sword, without dis-
tinction of age, sex, or rank.

In the Present, Saloniki is famous for the
religious riot in which the Official representa-
tives of France and Germany both fell victims.
A Greek girl had embraced the Mussulman
faith, from a matrimonial point of view. The
Christians attempted to tear her from the Islam-
ites. The French and German Consuls, the
latter being an Englishman, repaired to the
Mosque, where the infuriated Mussulmans set

upon and murdered them in spite of the efforts
of the Governor to protect them.

Salonica possesses also an American Consul.

THE SATLI JAHMI

the mosque in which the ill-fated European
Consuls were murdered is a comparatively mo-
dern building of no architectural merit.

The remainder of this route is continued
under the headings of

" GREECE " AND OF " TURKEY."

320

GREECE.

Extent. Length, 210 miles; breadth,
1 60 miles.

Topography. Coast and mountain chiefly.

Climate. Warm, charming.

Population. 1 , 500,000.

Government. Limited monarchy.

Manufactures. None of importance.

Divisions. Hellas, the Morea, and the
Islands ; ten governments, called "Nomoi."

General Description. The Tourist becomes
sensible of the singular hold the Ancient
Mythology gets upon the mind as one enters
these regions, where the doings and sayings of
the Heroes and Divinities of Old have
originated. Half the pleasure of visiting
Greece, and especially its incomparable
Islands and Seas, consists in rebuilding in
fancy the haunts of the Personages of
Antiquity. Then, to see the light and airy
buildings of Ancient Greece is to lead a new
life of enchantment. The art is lost else-
where that gave to its buildings that grace
which baffles the best architects of Egypt-
Rome, and all other lands, which have been,
unable to equal the perfection of these wonders.
But all is past. Byron has characterised the
present, and struck the note that sounds in
every soul at the first sight of this great
land now :

" "Tis Greece ; but living Greece no more !
So coldly sweet, so deadly fair,
We start for soul is wanting there ! "

Outlined Tour. Continuing from Trieste,
Venice, or Brindisi, as in preceding sections,
by the Adriatic,

THE ISLES OF GREECE

meet the Tourist.

FANO.

Classical Associatitns. D'Anville, the
French geographer, supposes this to have been
Calypso's isle, the old Ogygia. Its position
is between the south of Italy and Corfu, in
the middle of the channel to the Adriatic.
According to Homer, Ogygia, where lived
Calypso the beautiful-haired, was supposed to
be the centre of the sea, just as Delphi was
supposed to be the centre of the earth ;
321

Calypso was the daughter of Oceanus. Leave
ing Trinacia (Sicily), it took ten days to reach
Ogygia, and twenty-one thence to Corfu.
Had Ogygia been Malta, as some suppose,
Hercules must on leaving Sicily, where he
landed after escaping Scylla and Charybdis,
have drifted eighty miles to the south, and
his course would have receded, while on the
contrary he is said to have progressed towards
Ithaca. Pliny asserts that Calypso's isle was
not far from Cape Colonna, at the entrance of
the Gulf of Taranto, but, no such island existing
there, he likewise must be taken to have
meant Fano, which is actually on a line with
the entrance of the Gulf of Taranto.

CORFTJ.

Corfu is the chief of the Ionian isles. It
has a population of 70,000. It has been
strongly fortified by England. The scenery
is of singular beauty ; but there is no sign of
the life and industry which should exist in
such a central point of maritime and national
position on the sea-way of Europe and the
East.

The History of Corfu is of profound
interest. In 2500 years it has successively
belonged to the Corinthians, the Macedonians,
the Romans, the degenerate Greeks of the
Byzantine period, the Normans of the Cru-
sades, the Venetians, the Turks, the French
the English, and now to the modern Hellenes.
These successive peoples have resulted in a
mongrel race in the Corfiots, whose only sign
of patriotism is their attachment to their
native locality.

Classical Associations. Here, after Ulysses
had weathered the storm which had shattered
the planks of his craft (Odyssey, v. 368), and
compelled him to swim for two days on a
plank luckily caught, landing, covered with
green sea-weed, he met the beautiful eyes of
Nausicaa, fair daughter of Alcinous, loveliest
of all the old Scian's portraitures.

CEPHALONIA.

Cephalonia has a population of 70,000.
Classical Associations of Cephalonia.
Twenty-four of Penelope's suitors came from
322

GREECE.

hence. It is ingeniously remarked that that
would seem to indicate much ambition and
avarice on the part of the Men, and little
attraction on that of the Women, of this island.
It has a look of truth.

ITHACA.

Ithaca has a population of 10,000. Its
scenery is barren and rugged.

Classical Associations. This barren spot
was the home of the crafty Ulysses and the
discreet Penelope.

Upon Ithaca it is not possible to gaze with-
out that interest which has existed from
three thousand years ago. Ithaca lives only
from the life given to it by Homer, and perhaps
it is the sole spot in the world which can boast
a renown of such long standing on the simple
ground of a Poet's fancy selecting it for the
seat of his Hero's Home.

The old Palace of Ulysses is shown. Schlie-
mann claims to have found five little vases,
"more ancient than the ancient vases of Cuma?
in the museum of Naples, which very pos-
sibly contain the bodies of Ulysses, Penelope,
and then" children ! "

The view from Mount Aetos vies in grandeur
with that which is obtained from the Acro-
corinth. Its magnificence deserves a visit.

The Gulf of Patras, Lepanto, or Corinth, as
it is variously called, is entered, and

N AVAR! NO.

Navarino, the supposed residence of Nestor,
the son of Neleus, the great glory of the
Greeks is passed.

MODON

Is soon reached, with its high walls and towers
the extreme south-western point of the Morea.
It is the site of the old Methone, celebrated in
the time of the Sacred War, when Philip trans-
ferred the seat of hostilities into the Pelopon-
nesus, and remarkable for captures and re*
captures. It was Methone that Philip was
besieging when Aster shot the famous arrow
into his right eye.

COKON

follows. It afforded one of the scenes in
Byron's "Corsair." Here Gulnare dealt with
Seyd the Pacha.

The single tall tower that overtops the town
is said to be a relic of the older city, built by
the Messenians four centuries before Christ,
and to have consequently seen upwards of two
thousand years roll past. j

323

CAPE MAT A PAN,

the promontory of the ancient Tcenarum, pos-
sessed a celebrated Temple to Neptune, and
also a famous statue of Arion seated on a
dolphin, in memory of his miraculous escape
here, on the compassionate back of a porpoise,
from the avaricious clutches of the sailors who
would have robbed him in returning from
Sicily where his harping had won him wealth.

CAPE ST. ANGELO

is a promontory, famous in olden time as now
for the bad weather invariably encountered
near it, "the high mountain called Malea,
where Jupiter, with terrible voice, loosed the
winds against the ships of Menelaus," after
having recovered the naughty Helen upon the
fall of Troy.

CERIGO

was the Isle of Cythera, which had the the dis-
tinction of seeing Venus rise from the white
foam of the sea that washed it. The island
then contained the most magnificent temple
that Greece erected to the Divinity. Now,
Cerigo is famous for its biscuits, which largely
supply Constantinople, and are there called
" sienid."

SYRA

is a large city, with a population of 20,000.
White houses charactise the town. A great
portion of the Commerce of the Levant makes
its appearauce here in transit.

SUNIUM

is a promontory. It has the remains of a noble
Temple, according to Leake. The twelve
columns that now stand, nine on the southern
and three on the northern side, he contends,
belong to the Temple built after the Invasion
of Xerxes, in the brilliant period of Greek art
between the Persian and Peloponnesian Wars,
about the middle of the Fifth century B.C.,
when the Parthenon at.Athens was constructed
also. The columns are of Doric architecture.

THE PIR^TJS

is the port of Athens. It is six miles distant
from that city. Here Xerxes sat and saw the
defeat of his fleet.

Fare for boat, with baggage, from steamer
to land, one drachma. There is a railroad
from the Piraeus to Athens.

ATHENS.

Athens has a population of $0,000. The
city owes its celebrity entirely to its Ancient
greatness and remains of its former art. The

324

GREECE.

Modern city presents little of interest. The
streets are narrow and winding; the houses
mean and badly built.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Palace of the King. A modern edifice.
The rooms are decorated indifferently.

The Acropolis, or citadel, crowns the sum-
mit of a rock which rises abruptly from the
plain, in the midst of the city, 150 feet high.
Its antiquity is extreme. It was built partly
by the Pelasgians, partly by Themistocles and
Cymon, partly by Valerian, partly by the
Turks and the Venetians. It was " the pride
of Greece and the envy of the world." It had
the four distinct characters of Fortress, Shrine,
Treasury, and Museum.

The Propyl&um introduces to the Acro-
polis. It was commenced in the year 437 B.C.,
and finished in five years. It has six fluted
marble columns, 5 feet in diameter by 29 feet
in height. Two of the six columns preserve
their capitals, which equal in beauty those of
the Parthenon. The five portals still remain.

The Museum contains statues, inscriptions,
and other antiquities found in the Acropolis.

The Temple of Victory without wings is
on the right of the entrance to the Acropolis.
It was probably erected by Cymon. It was
demolished by the Turks in the year 1687. It
was restored during the reign of King Otho,
partly by the Hellenic government, and partly
by funds subscribed in England.

Several Temples and statues dedicated to
different Gods have now almost entirely
disappeared, fragments of them only lying
scattered in all directions.

The Parthenon was built during the era of
Pericles. It was 230 feet long, 100 feet wide.
Sufficient of it still remains to fill the spectator
with astonishment. The building was sur-
rounded by forty-eight white marble columns
of the Doric order, each 6 feet in diameter,
and 34 feet high. During the Venetian siege,
in the year 1687, the explosion of a powder-
magazine in the middle of the building over-
threw the greater part of this temple. The
celebrated frieze of the cella, with the Faces of
the Gods, the Ceremonies of the temple, and
the horse and chariot-Races, has been trans-
ferred to the British Museum, London.

The Erechtheium, dedicated to the joint
worship of Minerva and Neptune, is a rect-
angular building, 90 feet long, supposed to
have been erected during the time of Cymon
and Pericles. The Porticoes are supported
by Ionic columns. The southern portico is
supported by beautiful Female Caryatides.

3 2 5

Three only of the ancient figures remain intact,
the others have been restored. The whole
edifice was of Peutelic marble, with a frieze of
black marble of Eleusis, on which latter
ground were the bas-reliefs now in the
Pinacotheca.

The Areopagus, or Mars' Hill, is interesting
to Christians as the spot from which St. Paul
addressed the multitude of Athens. Here
sat the highest Judicial Court of Athens, whose
existence dates from the time of Cecrops.
The Judges were of the best families in Athens,
and appointed for life. They assembled during
the night. Here Socrates was tried for
scepticism.

The Pnyx Hill, to the south-west of the
Areopagus, is where the citizens met to decide
all great questions of peace, war, and national
policy.

The Tower of the Winds, an octagonal
structure, is situated at the foot of the
Acropolis. Its eight sides face the Eight
Winds which the Athenian compass indicated.
The Water-clock within the tower is of interest.

The Lantern of Demosthenes is a small
circular building of the Corinthian order, of
white marble. It has six fluted columns.

The Arch of Hadrian stood between Old
Athens, the city of Theseus, and new Athens,
the city of Hadrian. It is of Pentelic marble,
and of the Corinthian order.

The Temple of Jupiter Olympus stood in
the New city, or Hadrianopolis. It was begun
by Pisistratus in the year 530 B.C., it was
completed in Hadrian's reign, 138 A.D. It
was 550 feet long, 170 feet wide, and had
120 columns, of which only 16 remain.

The Prison of Socrates is one of several
small dungeons in the rock at the foot of the
Museum-hill, in which Socrates is believed
to have been imprisoned, and to have drunk
the judicial hemlock to the bitter end.

The Theatre of Bacchus was built about the
year 500 B.C. Here were presented the
dramas of JEschylus, Sophocles, Euripides,
Aristophanes, etc.

The Temple of Theseus is the best pre-
served of all the Temples of Greece, and
even of Italy. The body of Theseus, found
by Cymon, by an oracle, in the island of
Scyros, was here deposited. Its walls, and
thirty -four columns of the Doric order, still
remain.

Mount Lycabettus is the peaked summit on

the north-east of Athens. It is called by the

modern Greeks the Mountain of St. George,

from the Church to that saint which now

326

GREECE.

crowns it. The view is superb. The ascent
can be made in half-an-hour.

Mount Pentelicus, 3600 feet above the sea,
is 10 miles from Athens. The ascent requires
about two hours. The view is worth the
trouble.

THE EXCURSION TO MARATHON

may be made in one day. Or allow two,
(aking Mount Pentelicus on the way.

FROM ATHENS TO CHALCIS.

Six hours.

CHALCIS.

Chalcisis the Capital of the island of Eubcea
or Negropont. It is situated on the shore,
and communicates by a bridge with the
Boeotian coast. Under this bridge occurs a phe-
nomenon of the tides, unexplained as yet ; the
current flows for some time with great rapidity
from north to south, and, after a few minutes
of immobility, flows as quickly from south to
north. These changes occur frequently four-
teen times in twenty-four hours. The island
Eubcea was one of the principal possessions of
the Republic of Venice in the days of its
prosperity, and the Winged Lion of St. Mark
still shows over one of the gates. It was
taken from Venice by Mohammed II., in the
year 1470.

FROM ATHENS TO CORINTH.

By ^Egina, Epidaurus, Nauplia, and Argos.

^EGINA

is 26 miles from Athens. It had once a
population of 200,000 ; now there are not
more than 10,000 inhabitants. The modern
city has no interest. The antiquities have
been transported to Athens.

THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA

or of Jupiter Panhellenius, is situated on the
coast, about two hours and a half from JEgina.
It stands on a hill. Twenty-two of its Doric
columns, with architrave, are still standing.

EPIDATTRTTS.

Pidhavro, the ancient Epidaurus, is 12 miles
from JEgina. It was one of the greatest cities
of Ancient Greece ; now it numbers about 200
inhabitants.
From Epidaurus to Nauplia, by Hiero, I day.

HIERO.

Hiero was one of the most celebrated places
of Ancient Greece for invalids.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Theatre of Poly cletus, one of the best

327

preserved in Greece, has fifty-four rows of
seats in white-marble still remaining, the
whole theatre being capable of containing
12,000 spectators.

NAUPLIA.

Nauplia is defended by fortifications, the
chief forts are Palamede and Itskale. It was
founded by Nauplius, father of Palamede. the
victim of Ulysses. From the year 1829 to
1834 Nauplia was the seat of the Greek
Government.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Church of St. Spiridion.

The Fjrt of Palamede. On the summit of
a hill, 712 feet above the level of the sea.

From Nauplia to Argos, 2 hours.

ARQOS.

Argos has a population of 6000. It is
situated at the foot of a hill. It has few re
mains of antiquity.

The Principal Object of Interest is
The Theatre, capable of containing 20,000
persons. Sixty rows of seats are still extant.

From Argos to Mycenae, i hour.

MYCEN-ffi.

Mycenae was built by Perseus, 1300 years
B.C. It was a place of great importance.
Here Agamemnon was assassinated by
Egistheus and Clytemnestra.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Citadel, on the summit of a hill.

The Gate of Lions, famous, leads to it. But
alas ! the heads of the Lions are gone ; and
what is a Lion without head ?

The Treasury of Atreus is a subterrene, per-
fectly preserved, commonly called " The
Tomb of Agamemnon." It consists of two
chambers. The first chamber is circular, and
surmounted by a dome 40 feet high, and
45 feet in diameter.

From Mycenae to Corinth, 9 hours.

CORINTH.

Corinth was founded 1900 years B.C. It
was one of the most opulent cities of
Ancient Greece. It was the commercial
centre between Europe and Asia. The Isth-
mian Games took place in the neighbourhood
every three years. It has been in the power
of the Romans, Alaric the Goth, the Slavo-
nians, the Latins, the Knights of Malta, the
Venetians, and the Turks. It is now a miser-
able village.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
328

GREECE.

The Temple. Seven columns still remain,
of Doric order, heavy, and ill-proportioned.
It is older than the Temples of JEgina
and of Theseus at Athens.

Aero-Corinth, the celebrated fortress of
Corinth, stands 1,800 feet above the sea.
Previous to the introduction of artillery it was
impregnable.

FROM ATHENS TO MISSOLONGHI.

By Eleusis, Megara, Corinth, Megaspelion,

Helice, Vostizza, and Patras.

ELEUSIS.

From Athens, 4 hours.

Eleusis was one of the twelve original states
of Attica. Its prosperity arose from the cele-
bration of its Mysteries.

The Principal Object of Interest is
The Temple of Ceres. It was burned by
Persians in the year 484 B.C., and restored
in the time of Pericles. One column and a
part of the wall are all that now remain .

From Eleusis, 4 hours to Megara.

MEG-ABA.

Megara was one of the most flourishing
cities in Greece during the Seventh century.
No ruins remain.

From Megara to Corinth, 1 1 hours:
Corinth has been already described.

MEGASPELION.

From Corinth, 2 days.
The Convent of Megaspelion is celebrated.
It contains a picture of the Virgin attributed
to St. Luke, held in great veneration through-
out all Greece, said to have spoken several
times during the War of Independence, en-
couraging the Greeks, and to have wept on
occasions of defeat.

VOSTIZZA.

From Megaspelion, 5^ hours.
Vostizza was one of the chief cities of the
Achaian League. It is now a small town
with a population of 5000. Of its ancient
buildings nothing remains.

PATRAS.

From Vostizza, 8 hours.
Patras was the only one of the twelve cities
of Achaia that sided with the Athenians in
the Peloponnesian War. In the year 1821 it
was the first to rise in the War of Indepen-
dence. It has a considerable commerce. Its
currants are famous.

329

MISSOLONGHI.

Missolonghi is the most celebrated locality
of the events which occurred during the War
of Independence in the year 1822. Here
Mavrocordato, with but 500 Greeks, sus-
tained a siege of two months from a Turk-
ish force of 14,000 commanded by Omar ben
Vrioni. Here Lord Byron died in the year
1824. In 1825 it was again besieged by the
Ottoman army, and held out for a whole year
against its repeated assaults. In April, 1826,
the besieged determined to cut their way out
through the ranks of their opponents. Placing
the women in their centre, 2000 escaped.
The remainder determined to sell their lives as
dearly as possible, led-on the Turks to the
powder-magazine, and exploded it, involving
conqueror and conquered in one common
fate.

FROM MISSOLONGHI TO ATHENS,

By Lepanto, Galixidi, Amphissa, Delphi,
Lebadea, and Thebes.

LEPANTO

is celebrated for the Naval Battle fought in
the gulf which bears its name, close to Curzo-
lari, where Venice obtained the Victory over
the Turks, A.D. 1571.

GALIXIDI

is situated at the extremity of a promontory
the site of ancient Evantha.

AMPHISSA, or SALONA,

is charmingly situated.

DELPHI, or CASTRI,
owes its celebrity to the Pythian Oracle.

LEBADEA

is situated on the banks of the Hercyna.

THEBES

stands on hills. All traces of its ancient splen-
dour have disappeared.

From Thebes to Athens, 8 hours.

Tour continued

Between Athens and Constantinople, steam-
ers in 40 hours. Between Athens and Messina,
steamers in 40 hours. See under headings
of " TURKEY " and " ITALY."

330

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

SPAIN.

Extent. 650 miles long, 540 miles broad.
Divisions. Forty-nine provinces.
Population. Sixteen millions.
Manufactures. Wine, silk, leather, iron.
Army. About 100,000.
Government. Limited monarchy.
Religion. Roman Catholic.

PORTUGAL.

Extent. 360 miles long, 150 miles broad.

Divisions. Six provinces.

Population. Four millions and a half.

Manufactures. Wine.

Army. About 25,000.

Government. Limited monarchy.

Religion. Roman Catholic.

The Roads of both Spain and Portugal are
bad, with the exception of those over which
we take the traveller.

The Diligences are very good, the locomo-
tion on the principal roads being protected by
the Guardias Civiles, the Gendarmes of the
country.

The Rail-ways, which have now extended
over nearly every portion of those kingdoms that
can interest the Tourist, connect the majority
of the localities which follow, and constitute
our

OUTLINED TOUB,

with description of Route and Chief Towns.

First Day. Leave London for Paris.

Second Day. Leave Paris for Bordeaux.

Third Day. Leave Bordeaux, see under
heading " France," passing Bayonne and
Biarritz, for St. Sebastian.

Many places which have been brought into
notice during the late Carlistwar are passed,
including

IRUN,

on the Bidassoa, a Spanish frontier-town. It
sustained bombardment in the campaign.

ST. SEBASTIAN

is a strongly fortified town, situated upon a
peninsula on the Bay of Biscay. It has a
population of 15,000. It is interesting as
having been stormed by the English in the
Peninsular war.

331

Fourth Day. Leave St. Sebastian for Vit-
toria, Miranda, and Burgos.
Fifth Day. At Burgos.

BURGOS

has a population of 15,000. It is a bright-
looking city.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. One of the finest Gothic
structures in the world. Built in the Thir-
teenth century. Profusely decorated with
Pictures, Statues, Bas-reliefs, Stained-glass
windows, &c.

The Cartuja de Miraflores. The tombs to
Juan II. and Isabella here are fine.

San Pedro de Cardena convent. Here is
the tomb to the Cid.

7 he Churches generally are of interest.

Sixth Day. Leave Burgos for Valladolid.

VALLADOLID.

TJie Principal Objects of Interest are

The University.

The Picture- Gallery.

The Cathedral.

The Churches and Convents should also be
generally seen.

Seventh Day. Leave Valladolid for Avila,
the Escorial, and Madrid, stopping at each of
these places.

THE ESCORIAL,

the burial-place of the Spanish sovereigns, im-
mense Palace, Convent, and Church.
Eighth Day. At Madrid.

MADRID.

The capital of Spain has a population of
340,000. It is situated on the Manzanares,
2000 feet above the sea not healthy.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Royal Palace.

The Royal Museum. Contains many Paint-
ings of Murillo.

The Trinity Museum.

The Reservada Gallery.

The House of Deputies, The National
Library.

332

SPAIN" AND PORTUGAL.

The Armoury.

The Botanic Gardens. "Well laid out, and
rich.

Ninth Day. Leave Madrid for Toledo.

TOLEDO

has a population of 20,000. Manufactures,
cutlery, sword-blades, etc.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral, very grand.

The Puerta del Sol, famous for its architec-
ture.

The Alcazar.

Tenth Day. Leave Toledo for Cordova.

Eleventh Day. At Cordova.

CORDOVA

has a population of 60,000.

The Principal Object of Interest is

The Cathedral, formerly a Mosque, alone
worth a visit to Spain. It has a thousand
columns.

Twelfth Day. Leave Cordova for Seville.

Thirteenth Day. At Seville.

SEVILLE

has a population of 100,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. Interior sumptuous. Tomb
of Columbus' son. Famous weather-cock, the
Giralda, 374 feet above the pavement.

The Borsa. A fine building.

The Alcazar.

Fourteenth Day. Leave Seville for Cadiz.

CADIZ

has a population of 66,000.

It is a handsome, strongly-fortified, sea-port-
town. Manufactures, gloves, guitars, &c.

Portugal can best be visited here, from
Cadiz by sea or railway, or from Madrid
direct by railway.

Fifteenth Day. To Oporto.

Sixteenth Day. At Oporto.

OPORTO

has a population of 100,000. It is situated on
the river Douro, connecting with the sea. Its
Wine-trade is its chief feature. Its manufac-
tures are silk, linen, &c.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. Built in the Twelfth
century.

The Church Dos Clcrigos. It has the
highest steeple in the city.

The Episcopal Palace v& a fine building.

Seventeenth Day. From Oporto, by railway
to Lisbon.

533

LISBON,

the Capital of Portugal, has a population of
280,000. It is situated at the mouth of the
Tagus and the sea. It is generally dark and
dirty. And it possesses little to interest the
tourist.

Eighteenth Day. From Cadiz, by steam, to
Gibraltar.

Nineteenth Day. At Gibraltar.

GIBRALTAR

has a population of 25,000. It belongs to
England.

The Principal Objects of Interest are
The Fortifications, considered to be im-
pregnable.

Twentieth Day, From Gibraltar to Malaga.

MALAGA

has a population of 85,000. It is a depot of
wines.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. A vast building.

The Alameda. A delightful promenade.

Twenty-first Day. Leave Malaga for Gra-
nada.

Twenty-second Day. At Granada.

GRANADA,

the ancient capital of the Moors, has a popu-
lation of 80,000.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Alhambra. Ancient Palace of the
Moorish Kings, most gorgeously decorated, a
wonder of the world.

The Cathedral. Very handsome. Famous
tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella.

The Cartuja Convent. Celebrated paint-
ings and frescoes.

The Prado. Fine Promenade.

Twenty-third Day. Leave Granada, by
diligence, for Jaen and Menjibar, thence by
rail to Linares.

Twenty-fourth Day. Leave Linares, pass-
ing Alcazar, for Alicante.

ALICANTE

has a population of 30,000. It is a sea-port.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Castle. Magnificent view from it.

The Church of St. Nicholas. Decorated
richly.

The D'Algorfa Gallery of Paintings.

Twenty-fifth Day. Excursion to Elchc, a
picturesque Moorish town among plantations
of palms.

Twenty-sixth Day. Leave Alicante or Al-
cazar for Valencia.

Twenty- seventh Day. At Valencia.

334

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

VALENCIA

has a population of 100,000. Its situation is
lovely.

Manufactures Cloth, &c.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. A vast and beautiful
building.

The Churches of San Bartolommeo, San
Juan, San Esteban, San Martino, are all
worthy of inspection.

The Museo of El Carmen has good Paint-
ings.

Twenty-eighth Day. Leave Valencia for
Tarragona and Barcelona

Twenty-ninth Day. At Barcelona.

BARCELONA

has a population of 200,000. It is situated
on the Mediterranean. Its commerce is large.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

The Cathedral. A Gothic of the Four-
teenth centary.

The Exchange. A fine building.

7 he Rambla. The chief promenade.

FROM BARCELONA

steam may be taken to Marseilles, or railway
and diligence to Perpignan, rejoining there
our " General Continental Tour," as given
under the heading of " FRANCE."

335

SWEDEN AND NORWAY.

Extent. Greatest length, 1200 miles ;
breadth, about 450 miles.

Divisions. Sweden is divided into Three
" regions," and Norway equally into Three.

Population. Of Sweden, 4,500,000 ; of
Norway, nearly 2,000,000.

Government. Limited monarchy.

Manufactures. None of importance. Ship-
building, and sawing trees into planks, are the
chief employments.

Religion. Lutheranism.

Climate. Not severe. Even mild on the
west-coasts. Spring does not exist. Summer
short, and hot. Winter about eight months,
healthy.

Locomotion. In Sweden, canals, and rail-
ways. In Norway, steamers along the coasts,
canioles on the land-tracks.

SWEDEN.

The Scenery is not so grand as that of Nor-
way. It is more simply picturesque, the
whole country from north to south being
dotted with undulating fields, forests, lakes,
and, in many places, waterfalls, equalling
most countries in general scenic effect.

STOCKHOLM,

the Capital, has a population of 170,000. It
far exceeds almost every other European city
in the picturesqueness of its situation. It is
rich in every kind of amusement to make a
summer-visit delightful.

Stockholm is called "the Paris of the
North," but this soubriquet conveys only
faintly the merits of this beautiful and hospit-
able city. Its environs command short, de-
lightful excursions, many of which can be
made in elegantly-fitted-up passage-steamers,
or steam-omnibuses, which ply in every
direction among the many channels that
intersect this strange city.

The Principal Objects of Interest are

1 lie Palace of the King. It is a fine building
of brick and granite, and contains

The Picture-Gallery. Here there is nothing
of special note.

The Sculpture- Gallery has some fine
antiques.

The Museum of Northern Antiquities is of
much local attraction.

The Cathedral, St. Nicholas. The Kings
of Sweden and Norway are crowned here and
at Trondheim.

The Ridderholm is a Royal burial-place.
The tomb of Gustavus Adolphus is here.

The Riddarhus, or Parliament-house.

The Royal Theatre is celebrated.

The Deer-Park, a place of popular resort.

The Trollhatta Falls are between Stockholm
and Gottenburg.

GOTTENBTJRG

has a population of 65,000. It is a sea-port.
Its situation, built in form of a rising ampthi-
theatre, is striking. It has no special objects
of interest to the tourist. It is unhappily also
hitherto defective in hotel-accommodation.

JONKOPING.

has a population of 8000. It is 80 miles from
Gottenburg. It satisfactorily affords accom-
modation to those who have time to make a
prolonged stay, on account of the superior
comforts of its hotels, the natural beauty of the
city, and the pleasantness of its environs.

OUTLINED TOUR IN SWEDEN.

First Day. Leave London or Hull by
steamer for Gottenburg.
i Second Day. At sea.

Third Day. Arrive at Gottenburg.

Fourth Day. Leave Gottenburg for Stock-
holm. Visit the Trollhatta Falls en route.

Fifth Day. At Stockholm.

Sixth Day. In the evening, leave Stock-
holm for Copenhagen.

Seventh Day. Arrive at Copenhagen (capi-
tal of Denmark, population 200,000) .

Eighth Day. Leave Copenhagen for Ham-
burg.

Ninth Day. Arrive at Hamburg. Leave
Hamburg the same evening, or next morning

338

SWEDEN AND NORWAY.

for London ; or continue our " General Conti-
nental Tour " from Hamburg ; see under the
heading " GERMAN EMPIRE."

NORWAY.

The Scenery combines every variety of
Alpine and Arctic scenery. Every square
mile has its waterfall, valley, or glacier. There
is a continuous series of fjords, isles, lakes,
mountains, alps, glaciers, jokuls, waterfalls,
and every sort of sceneiy. Travellers in
Norway regard it as a " stupendous museum,
where the Creator has crowded together all the
wildest and most beautiful effects of His
power ! "

To arrange a tour in Norway, more im-
portant, even than to know the state of the
Roads and Stations, is to be well posted up as
to the times and seasons for Steamers on the
Lakes and Fjords. Everything depends upon
being able to make plans so that they shall
fall in with the boat-arrangements. In order
to ensure accuracy the local time-tables must
be consulted.

OUTLINED TOUR IN NORWAY

with description of
Route and Chief Stations.

First Day. From London or Hull, by
steamer, to Christiania.

Second and Third Days. At sea.
Fourth Day. Arrive at

CHRISTIANSAND,

seaport of Norway. Population, 10,000.
The town is uninteresting. Here steamers
pause for some hours.

On board again. And steam up the
Christiania Fjord.

Fifth Day. Arrive at Christiania.

CHRISTIANIA,

the Capital of Norway, has a population of
70,000.

7 he Principal Objects of Interest are

The Storthing, or Parliament-house.

The Palace, and grounds.

The Oscars/tall. A short and beautiful
drive.

Sixth Day. By rail to Eidsvold. Through
very picturesque scenery. The architecture
of the Railway-stations is similar to that of
Switzerland. Strawberries, cakes, and sweets
are offered for sale at the stations by peasants.
Arrive at Eidsvold. Walk to the water-side,

339

and take steamer on the Mjosen for Lille-
hammer.

Seventh Day. Walk to Aronsveen. Thence
carriage to Holmen and Bakkejordet. Carriole
will be necessary to carry luggage. All the
way from Lillehammer to Dombaas stretches
the charming Gudbrandsdalen Valley. Sleep
at Listad ; capital quarters.

Eighth Day. By carriole to Nedre Brand-
void and Storklevstadt. On to Bredevangen,
Moen, where there is a fine waterfall, and on
to Laurgaard. Here commences one of the
most wild, rugged, wooded, and beautiful
gorges in Norway, the ravine of Rusten.
Stop at Brasndhangen.

Ninth Day. By carriole to Toftenmcen,
and on to Dombaas. Here is a junction to
the Vale of the Romsdal, and the Dovre
Fjeld.

THE DOVRE FJELD

may be visited from Dombaas by Jerkin, and
return to Dombaas for the Valley of the
Romsdal.

THE ROMSDAL

is magnificent. There is nothing else of its
kind in Norway, perhaps not in the world.
Ever- varying scenery, mountains, gorges,
waterfalls, forests. The traveller may well
linger here as he lists.

Tenth Day. From Dombaas, walk to
Holaker. By carriole from thence to Holseth ;
where stop for the night.

Eleventh Day. Drive to Molmen, Stuef-
latten, and Ormen.

Twelfth Day. Walk about Ormen, a lovely
spot. By carriole to Fladmark. Walk to
Horgheim. By carriole to Aak; in admir-
able situation ; and good quarters. At
Veblungnoeset are fine views of the Romsdal-
horn and Troldtinderne.

Thirteenth Day. By steamer to Vestnaes.
Walk to Ellingsgaard. By carriole to Soholt,
through Saster-land. By steamer to Helles-
yldt on the Stor Fjord. And on to Geiranger,
one of the wildest fjords in Norway. Sleep
on board steamer.

Fourteenth Day. On Geiranger Fjord.
Back to Hellesyldt. By carriole to Tronstadt,
Haugen, and Graadaas. At Faleide is a good
station.

Fifteenth Day. By row-boat to Udvig.
Walk up what is alleged to be the steepest

340

SWEDEN AND NORWAY.

road in Norway. The Lang-fjeld glaciers.
From Reed, by boat, to Forde-in-Bredheim,
and thence through a grand gorge to the
Jostedal Fjelds. Stop for the night at Ordal;
there is no station, but beds can be got at a
private house.

Sixteenth Day. By carriole to Nedre Vas-
senden and Forde.

Seventeenth Day. By steamer for Bergen .
Eighteenth Day. Arrive at Bergen.

BERGEN

has a population of 30,000. It it situated on
a bay. It is a naval station. The position is
rather picturesque. There are no public build-
ings of any note.

Nineteenth Day. By steamer, from Bergen,
coasting, to Stavanger.

Twentieth and Twenty- first Days. In con-
tinuation to Christiansand our starting-point,
from whence by steamer to LONDON

341

342

INDEX.

Abbeville, 44.

Adelsberg, 250.

/Egina, 327.

Agen, 117.

Agricultural Produce, 25.

Aix, in.

Aix-la-Chapelle, 191.

Aix-les-Bains, 124.

Aleugon, 129.

Alessandria, 271.

Alicante, 334.

Altdorf, 154.

Amboise, 119.

Amiens, 44, 100.

Amphion, 162.

Amphissa, 330.

Amsterdam, 184.

Angers, 130.

Angouleme, 120.

Antwerp, 174.

Arc de Triomphe de 1'Etoile, 64.

Arcachon, 122.

Argos, 328.

Aries, in.

Arras, 47.

Artillery Museum, 64,

Asnieres, 86.

Athens, 324.

Auteuil, 65.

Auxerre, 105.
Avignon, no.

Bacharach, 205.

Baden, The Warm Springs of, 247

Baden-Baden, 212.

Baireuth, 231.

Bal Masque, The, 65.

Bale, 142.

Balls, 65.

Bank of France, 65.

Barcelona, 336.

Bar-le-Duc, 103.

Basiah, 305.

Baths, 66.

Battle Fields of the Franco-German War,

The, 10.
Bayeux, 127.
Bayonne, 123.
Beaune, 107.
Belgium, 7, 8.
Belgrade, 249, 304.
Bellinzona, 155.
Bendorf, 201.
Bergen, 341.
Berlin, 217.
Bernay, 126.
Berne, 147.

Bernese Oberland, The, 149.
Beziers, 133.

INDEX.

Biarritz, 123.

Bibliotheque Nationale, 66.

Biblioth^ques, Other, 67.

Biebrich, 207.

Bienne, 146.

Bingen, 206.

Bird Markets, Paris, 82.

Black Forest, The, 212.

Blois, 119.

Bois de Boulogne, Paris, 67.

Bologna, 274.

Bonn, 198.

Boppart, 204.

Bordeaux, 121.

Bosphorus, The Shores of the, 311.

Botzen, Paris, 254.

Boulevards, Paris, 67.

Boulogne, 47.

Bourse, Paris, 67.

Braubach, 204.

Bregenz, 252.

Bremen, 214.

Brenner Pass, The, 254.

Brescia, 266.

Brest, 129.

Bridges, Paris, 67.

Brienz, 152.

Brindisi, From Naples to, 290.

Brixen, 254.

Breck, 185.

Bruges, 172.

Brunswick, 215.

Brussels, 166.

Buda, 249.

Burgos, 332.

Buttes Chaumont, 67.

Cadiz, 333.
Caen, 126.
Calais, 46.
Cannes, 113.
Cape Matapan, 324.
Cape St. Angelo, 324.
Carcassonne, 133.
Castri, 330.
Catacombs, Paris, 67,
Cattle Markets, Paris, 8r.
Cemeteries, Paris, 68.
Cenis Tunnel, The, 125.
Central Germany, 6, 9.

Central Italy, ^5.

Cephalonia, 323.

Cerigo, 324.

Cetigne, 317.

Cette, 133.

Chablis, 106.

Chalcis, 327.

Chalons-sur-Marne, 102.

Chalons-sur-Saone, 107.

Chambery, 124.

Chamouny, 135,

Champs de Mars, Paris, 68.

Champs Elyse'es, 68.

Chantilly, 45, too.

Chapelle de St. Ferdinand, Paris, 69.

Chapelle Eapiatoire, Paris, 68.

Chapelle, Russe, Paris, 69.

Charlottenburg, 219.

Chartres, 128.

Chenanceau, The Chateau of, 119.

Cherbourg, 127.

Chillon, 161.

Christiania, 339.

Christiansand, 339.

Churches, Paris, 53, 69.

Clarens, 161.

Climate, Paris, 26.

Clubs, 53.

Coblenz, 201.

Cologne, 196.

Columns, Paris, 73.

Comorn, 248.

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, Paris, 74.

Constantinople, 309.

Constant, 232.

Cordova, 333.

Corfu, 322.

Corinth, 328.

Coron, 323.

Countries, The, most worthy of being visited, i.

Couriers, 3.

Creil, 45, loo.

Cronstadt, 292.

Danube, The, 223.
Delft, 182.
Delphi, 330.
Dieppe, 48.
Dijon, 106.
Douai, 47.

INDEX.

German Watering Places, Spas, 6.

Ghent, 171.

Gibraltar, 334.

Giurgevo, 306.

Gobelins, 76.

Gottenburg, 338.

Granada, 334.

Grand Prix de Paris, The, 54.

Grasse, 114.

Gratz, 250.

Graun, 248.

Gravosa, 315.

Grindelwald, 150,

Guides, 3.

Haarlem, 184.

Hague, The, 182.

Halle au B16, Paris, 76.

Halles, Paris, 76.

Halles Centrales, Paris, 76.

Hamburg, 215,

Hanover, 213.

Havre, 50.

Heidelberg, 209.

Heilzing, 247.

Herculaneum, 289, 290.

Hiero, 327.

Holland, 8.

Homburg, 210.

Horse Markets, Paris, 81.

Hotel de Cluny, Paris, 75.

Hotel de Ville, Paris, 77.

Hotel des Invalides, Paris, 75.

Hotel des Monnaies, Paris, 77.

Hyeres, 113.

Imst, 252.

Innsbruch, 253.

Interlaken, 149.

Iron Gates, The, 305.

I run, 331.

Ismail, 307.

Ithaca, 323.

Jardin d'Acclimatation, Paris, 78.
Jardin des Plantes, Paris. 77.
Jardiri des Tuileries, Paris, 77.
Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, 77.
Jardin du Palais Royal, Paris, 77.
Jardin Mabille, Paris, 78.

Dovre Fjeld, The, 340.
Dresden, 221.
Dusseldorf, 191.

Ecole de Medecine, Paris, 74.

Ecole des Beaux Arts, Paris, 74.

Ehrenbreitstein, 202.

Elensis, 329.

Elyse"e Palace, 74.

Embassies, Paris, 53.

Ems, 203.

Engers, 201.

Epernay, 101.

Epidaurus, 327.

Escurial, The, 332.

Evian, 162.

Evreux, 125.

Examination of Baggage, 4.

Exchange, Paris, 76.

Expenses of Travel, 3.

Fall of the Rossberg, The, 144.

Falls of the Giessbach, 152.

Falls of the Rhine, The, 144.

Falls of the Staubbach, The, 149.

Fain, 321.

Faulhorn, The, 151.

Feldkirch, 252.

Florence, 275.

Florence, Near, 281.

Fontainebleau, 97, 105.

Forest of Fontainebleau, 99.

Fountains, Paris, 76.

France, 16.

Frankfort-on-the-Main, 208, 231, 232.

Freiburg, 212.

French People, The, 26.

French Watering Places, 5.

Fribourg, 148.

Frouard, 103.

Furca Pass, The, 151.

Galixidi, 330.

Gardens, 76.

Gardens of Fontainebleau, The, 99.

Gardens of Versailles, The, 94.

Geneva, 157.

Genoa, 271.

INDEX.

Joiguy, 105.
Jonkoping, 338.
Jungfrau, The, 150.

Kousgoundjouk, 314.

Lacken, The Excursion to, 171.

Lago di Garda, The, 266.

Lago Maggiore, The, 156.

Lake of Constance, The, 145, 233.

Lake of Geneva, The, 159.

Lake of Lucerne, The, 153.

Lake of Lugano, The, 1 56.

Lake of Thun, The, 149.

Lake of Zurich, The, 143.

Landeck, 252.

Languages, 3.

Lausanne, 159.

Lauterbrunnen, 149.

Laybach, 250.

Lebadea, 330.

Leghorn, 283.

Leipzig, 220.

Le Alans, 128.

Lepanto, 330.

Leuk, The Baths of, 163,

Leyden, 183.

Liege, 176.

Lille, 47.

Limoges, 117.

Lisbon, 334.

Lisieux, 126.

Locano, 156.

Loches, The Castle of, 120.

London to Paris, 17, 18.

Lorch, 206.

Louvain, 176.

Louvre, The, Paris, 78.

Lucca, 282.

Lucerne, 152.

Lugano, 156.

Luggage, 2.

Luxembourg, 80.

Lyons, 108.

Macon, 108.

Madeleine, The Church of the, Paris, 69.

Madrid, 332.

Magadino, 156.

Magdeburg, 216.

Maison Francis I., Paris, 8r.

Maison, Romaine, Paris, 8r.

Maisons, Paris, 80.

Malaga, 334.

Malines, 176.

Malmaison, 86.

Mantes, 50.

Mantua, 265.

Manufactures, 26, 8r.

Marathon, The Excursion to, 327.

Marches aux Fleurs, Paris, 82.

Marengo, The Battle Field of, 271.

Markets, Paris, 81.

Marseilles, in.

Martigny, 163.

Martinswand, The, 253.

Mayence, 207.

Meaux, zor.

Megara, 329.

Megaspelion, 329.

Melun, 104.

Mentone, 116.

Mesa's Pillar, King, Paris, 79.

Meuse, The Valley of the, 176.

Meyringen, 151.

Mezieres, 102, 171.

Milan, 267.

Mineral Produce, 25.

Mineralogy Mus^e des Mines, Paris, 3:

Minerva, The Temple of, 32-,

Missolonghi, 330.

Modena, 273.

Modon, 323.

Moldova, 305,

Monaco, 115.

Monceaux, 82.

Money, 3.

Mont Blanc, 137.

Mont Blanc, The Tour of, 162.

Monte Salvatore, 156.

Montpellier, 133.

Montreaux, 161.

Morgue, The, Paris, 82.

Moscow, 296.

Munich, 223.

Musde Dupuytren, The, Paris, 74.

Museums, Paris, 82.

Mycenas, 328.

INDEX.

Namur, 171, 177.

Nancy, 103.

Nantes, 130.

Naples, 288.

National Assembly, The, Paris, 93.

Nauplia, 328.

Neuchatel, 145,

Neuwied, 200.

Nice, 114.

Nimes, 134.

North Italy. 15, 16.

North of France to Paris, 3, 7.

North- West of France 24.

Northern and Southern Germany, 9.

Northern Germany, by Cologne, 6.

Notre Dame, Cathedral of, Paris, 71,

Notre Dame de Lorette, Church of, Paris, 70.

Novara, 269.

Nuits, 107.

Nurnberg, 231.

Obelisk of Luxor, Paris, 83.

Oberwesel, 205.

Offenburg, 212.

Oporto, 333.

Orange, no.

Orleans, 116.

Orsova, 305.

Ostend, 173.

Ouchy, 160.

Padua, 263.

Palace of Fontainebleau, The, Paris, 97.

Palais Bourbon, Paris, 83.

Palais de Justice, Paris, 83.

Palais des Thermes, Paris, 75.

Palais d'Orsay, Paris, 83.

Palais Royal, Paris, 83.

Pantheon, The, Paris, 73.

Paris in One Day, To see, 57.

Paris in Two Days, To see, 58.

Paris in a Week, To see, 58.

Paris to Arcachon, 22.

Paris to Biarritz, 22.

Paris to Brussels, 18, 19.

Paris to Germany, 19.

Paris to Italy, 22, 23.

Paris to Lyons, 21.

Paris to Marseilles, 21.

Paris to Nantes, 24.

Paris to Nice, 21.

Paris to Switzerland, 20.

Paris to the Pyrenees, 21.

Paris to Vienna, 22.

Parma, 272.

Pass of the Brttnig, The, 152.

Pass of the Gemimi, The, 149, 164.

Pass of the Grinsel, The, 151.

Passports, 2.

Patras, 329.

Pau, 117.

Perigueux, 117.

Pest, 248.

Peterskoi, 300.

Pirceus, The, 324.

Pisa, 282.

Place de la Bastille, Column of the, Paris, 73.

Place Vendome, Column of the, Paris, 73.

Poitiers, 120.

Pompeii, 289.

Fonts, Paris, 85.

Porcelain Manufacture, Paris, 85.

Fortes, St. Denis and St. Martin, Paris, 85.

Potsdam, 219.

Prague, 223, 235.

Pressburg, 248.

Races, Paris, 54.

Ragusa, 315, 316.

Ratisbon, 230.

Rennes, 129.

Revenue of France, The, 27.

Rheims, 102.

Rhenish Germany, 8.

Rhenze, 203.

Rhine, The, 8, 186, 192.

Rhine, The Falls of the, 144.

Rhine, The Tour of the, 195.

Rigi, From Zurich to the, 143.

Rigi, The, 156.

Rome, 283.

Romsdal, The, 340.

Rossberg, The Fall of the, 144.

Rotterdam, 181.

Rouen, 48.

Roveredo, 255.

Rudesheim, 207.

Rustchuck, 306.

INDEX.

St. Augustin, Church of, Paris, 69.

St Cloud, Paris, 85.

St. Denis, Paris, 85.

St. Etienne du Mont, Church of, Paris, 73.

St. Eustache, Church of, Paris, 70.

St. Genevieve, Church of, Paris, 73.

St. Germain, Paris, 86.

St. Germain des Pres, Church of, Paris, 72.

St. Germain-en-Laye, Paris, 86.

St. Germain 1'Auxerrois, Church of, Paris, 70.

St. Gervais, Church of, Paris, 71.

St. Gotthard Pass, The, 154.

St. Merri, Church of, Paris. 71,

St. Omer, Paris, 46.

St. Paul, Church of, Paris, 71.

St. Petersburg, 292.

St. Quentin, 100.

St. Roch, Church of, Paris, 70.

St. Sebastian, 331.

St. Sulpice, Church of, Paris, 72.

St. Vincent de Paul, Church of, Pario, 70.

Sainte Chapelle, The, Paris, 71.

St. Clothilde, Church of, Paris, 72,

Salona, 330.

Saloniki, 318.

Salzburg, 224, 255.

Satli Jahmi, The, 320,

Saxenburg, 247, 255.

Scheveningen, 183.

Scutari, 314.

Sedan, 102, 171.

Sens, 105.

Seville, 333.

Sevres, 85.

Silz, 253.

Simplon Pass, The, 163.

Soleure, 146.

South of France, 14, 24.

Southern Germany, 6, 9, 10.

Southern Italy, 15.

Southern Tyrol, 16.

Sozoreny, 305.

Spa, 178.

Spliigen, The Route of the, into Italy, 143.

Staubbach, The Falls of the, 149.

Stockholm, 337.

Strassburg, 211.

Stuttgart, 231.

Sulina, 308.

Summer Balls, Paris, 65.

Sunium, 324.

Swiss Pedestrian Tour of a Month,
Swiss Tour of a Fortnight, n.
Swiss Tour of a Month, 12.
Swiss Tour of Eight Days, ir.
Swiss Tour of Seventeen Days, 12.
Syra, 324.

Tarascon, no.

Tarbes, 117.

Thebes, 330.

Thermes, The, Paris, 87.

Thun, 148.

Time for Tours, i.

Toledo, 333.

Tomb of Marshal Turenne, Paris, 87.

Tomb of Napoleon I., Paris, 87.

Toulon, 112.

Toulouse, 132.

Tour St. Jacques, Paris, 88.

Toars, 119.

Tours, Plans of, 4.

Trent, 255.

Trianons, The, Paris. 96.

Trieste, 250.

Troitza, The Monastery of, 300.

Tuileries Gardens, Paris, 88.

Tuileries Palace, Paris, 88.

Tultcha, 307.

Turin, 270.

Tyrol, The, 224, 251.

Tzarsko-Selo, The Palace of, 296.

Ulm, 231.

Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen, The, 149.

Utrecht, 186.

Valence, no.

Valencia, 335.

Valladolid, 332.

Venice, 257.

Verona, 255, 264.

Versailles, 88.

Verviers, 178.

Vesdre, The Valley of the, 177.

Vesuvius, 289, 290.

Vevey, 160.

Vidin, or Wiclin, 305.

Vienna, 223, 238.

Vienne, no.

Vincenncs, 96.

INDEX.

VII

Vostizza, 329.
Vougeot, 107.

Walhalla, The, 230.
Waterloo, Excursion to, 170.
Weissenthurm, 201.
Wengern Alp, The, 150.
West of France, 24.

Widin, or Vidin, 305.
Wiesbaden, 208.
Winter Balls, Paris, 65.

Zaandam, 186.
Zirl, S53 .
Zurich, 142.

<-= w

FOUR MONTHS

IN THE

UNITED STATES

AND

CANADA.

An Itinerary Guide

FOR

TOURISTS .

Illustrated with Eighteen Maps and Plans.

E. G. RAVENSTEIN, F.R.G.S., F.S.S., &c.

THOMSON BROTHERS,
120, SALISBURY SQUARE, K.C

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTORY.

PA'GE

Travelling Season, Expenses, and Baggage I

Hotels, Railways, Time, Money and Currency 3

EUROPE TO AMERICA.

Steamship Lines between Europe and America . . 5

NEW YORK.

Conveyances and Amusements 7

Principal Objects of Interest 7

Central Park, Brooklyn and Highbridge 9

NORTHERN TOUR.

New York to Boston 1 1

White Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Canada . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

St. Laurence .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17

Excursion to the Saguenay 19

Montreal to New York 19

CENTRAL TOUR.

New York to Niagara .. .. .. .. .. . .. .. ..21

Niagara to Chicago and St. Louis 25

St. Louis to Baltimore , 31

Baltimore to Philadelphia and New York 37

SOUTHERN TOUR.

Baltimore to Washington 41

The Spring Region of Virginia 45

Lynchburg to New Orleans 49

New Orleans to Savannah 55

Florida 57

Savannah to the North .. 61

CONTENTS.

GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

PACK

Bound West . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

The Great Geysers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

The Yosemite Valley 75

Bound East 79

Colorado .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 81

Bound East 83

STATISTICAL TABLE.

Area and Population of the United States 8;

Area and Population of the British Dominions in North America . . . . 87

INDEX AND LIST OF HOTELS

FOUR MONTHS IN THE UNITED STATES
AND CANADA.

I.-INTRODUCTORY.

THIS "Itinerary Guide" is principally
intended for the use of tourists and
travellers who visit the United States for
the purpose of seeing the principal cities,
and some of the finest or most charac-
teristic scenery. With a special view
to the requirements of such travellers,
we have carefully prepared these tours
through the States and Canada ; one to
the north, another to the west, a third to
the south, and a fourth to the far west.
These four tours extend over 13,530 miles,
and can be accomplished in a hundred
days of actual travel, including a stay of
moderate length at the principal towns.
But as there are Sundays, as well as days
on which travelling or sight-seeing, owing
to unfavourable weather, are impossible,
the traveller must be prepared to spend
four months upon their accomplishment.
On the other hand, several days may be
saved by foregoing some of the excursions
introduced by us.

TRAVELLING SEASON. July and August
are the fashionable tourist months in
the United States, but they are by no
means the most favourable months during
which to travel. September is believed to
offer most attractions in the north ; spring
or autumn are the best for our southern
tour. New Orleans should not be visited
before October, whilst Florida is attractive
even in the middle of winter. Autumn or
spring (May) are the best seasons for
California.

EXPENSES. These vary, as a matter of
course, with the style of living adopted by
the traveller. Generally speaking, the
Hotel expenses are not in excess of what
is charged in England, whilst the railway
fares average less than 3 cents (i^d) a
mile, for express trains, being lower in the
I

east, higher in the extreme west and
south, the fare from New York to Cin-
cinnati amounts to 2-3 cents a mile, that
from New York to Omaha amounts to 27
cents, and that from Omaha to San
Francisco, to 5*2 cents a mile. Ten
dollars has been mentioned as the sum
which an European traveller ought to be
prepared to expend, but we feel certain,
that if hack and carriage hire is avoided,
and the traveller is content to stay at
smaller hotels, he may manage to live
very decently at the rate of four dollars a
day.

Roughly estimated, the expenses of a
traveller intending to visit all the places
described in this guide would be as
follows :
Europe and New York or some other )

American harbour and back, includ- f /,-
ing board and incidental expenses, ( ^S
say )

Railway and Steamboat fares, includ- ]
ing use of Parlour and Sleeping >
Cars, &c. )

Personal expenses during 120 days'
stay in the United States and Canada,
at the rate of 4 (i6s.) per diem.

Total

An experienced traveller, prepared to-
" rough " it, content to sleep in the second
cabin and to dispense with the luxury of
Parlour Cars, and capable of putting up with
inferior American hotels, might manage with
hardly more than half that amount.

BAGGAGE should be limited to a stout
trunk and to a hand bag or ' Gladstone/
Warm overcoat and plaid are indispen-
sable, not only during the sea- voyage, but
also whilst travelling in the States, for
changes of temperature are frequent.
Provide yoursef likewise with a dust
coat. Woollen underclothing should be-

I.-INTKODUCTORY.

worn. A dress suit is required only if
you desire to enter into society. An
ordinary Tourists' suit (brown or grey)
will be found most practical, as in Europe.
A clothes-brush should not be forgotten,
nor an opera glass.

The American customs' authorities are
far from liberal. The traveller is permit-
ted to import duty free only wearing
apparel and a few articles of personal
use, and these must not exceed $250 in
value. There must be no superabundance
of jewellery, nor of books, tobacco or
cigars.

HOTELS. There are two classes of
hotels in the United States, viz. those kept
on the European plan, and those kept on
the American plan. The former will
generally be found most comfortable, if it
is proposed to remain at a place for a
short time only. The traveller sleeps at
the hotel, and takes his meals in the
restaurant usually attached to it, or any-
where else. Hotels on the American plan
are boarding houses, the traveller is
provided with a bed-room, has the use of
the public rooms of the hotel, and takes
his meals in the dining room. These
meals usually consist of breakfast (between
7 and u, luncheon (between 12 and i),
dinner (between 4 and 7), and supper
(between 8 and u). At each of these
meals, the traveller may select from the
bill of fare any dishes he likes. A small
fee to the waiter will ensure good attend-
ance. No charge is made for lights or
attendance. The usual charges at first-
rate hotels of this kind are $3 to $5 this side
the Mississippi, $3 to $4 at Omaha, Denver
or Salt Lake, $2 to $3 at San Francisco.

Igg- A list of Hotels will be found in the
Alphabetical Index.

RAILWAYS. Tickets may be procured
at the ticket offices in town, where berths
in the sleeping cars can likewise be
secured.

First class tickets are available without
limit as to time, and the traveller may
break his journey at all places named
upon them, or at others, on speaking to
Ih : conductor.

As a rule there is only one class, but on
many lines ist, 2nd and 3rd (or emigrant)
.tickets are issued, as in Europe. The

holder of a first class ticket is entitled to
travel by .express trains, he may break
his journey as he pleases, and is admitted
(on extra payment) to the Parlour or
Sleeping cars. Second class passengers
may travel by express, but their tickets are
limited as to the time within which they
may be used, and they are not admitted
to Parlour cars.

Baggage. loolbs. are always allowed
free, and no charge is made for checking
or storing. On handing over the baggage
to the baggage master at the " Depot" (or
station), he attaches a brass check to it,
and presents a duplicate check to the owner.
It is returned only on presentation of this
check. A baggage agent generally col-
lects these checks on the train, and, on
payment of a small fee, undertakes to
forward the baggage to any part of the
town.

Omnibuses, (50 c.) generally await the
arrival of each train, to convey passengers
to the hotels.

Dining Room Cars are attached to
many trains (charge for dinner usually
75 cents). "Eating stations" are met
with at suitable intervals, where the
traveller may swallow a hasty meal, but it
is nevertheless advisable, on long journeys,
to carry a supply of provisions.

RAILWAY TIME. The vast difference
in longitude between the Atlantic and
Pacific sea-boards, necessarily results in
differences of the local time of various
places.

When it is 12 noon at New York, it is
at :

Boston ii. 48 a.m. Montreal 11.55 a.m.

Buffalo 12.20 p.m. New Orleans 1.5 p.m.

Cincinnati 2.37p.m. Omaha 1.28 p.m.

Charleston 1 2. 24 p.m. Philadelp. 11.55 a - m -

Chicago 12.54 p.m. Richmond 12. 14 p.m.

Denver 2.5 p.m. Salt Lake City
Detroit 12.36 p.m. 2.32p.m.

Jacksonville (Florida) St. Louis 1.5 p.m.

i2.3Op.m. S.Francisco3.i4p.m.

Kansas City 1.5 p.m. Savannah 12.29 p.m.

Louisville 12.47 p.m. Wshingt'ni2.i2p.m.
Mobile 12.56 p.m.

The local time, however, is not in all cases identical
with Railway time, and the traveller should not there-
fore trust implicity to his Bailway Guide and watch.

MONEY AND CURRENCY. The gold

II. EUROPE TO AMERICA.

Dollar ($) is equal to 45. 2d.; or i sterling
equal to 4-866 dollars. The dollar is
divided into 100 cents or 1000 mills. I
shilling is consequently = 24^ cents ; id.
= 2X cents; or 25 cents, are = is. o}4d. }

There are gold pieces of $10 or Eagles,
as well as Double Eagles ($20), half-
eagles, quarter eagles, and (in California),
octagon $50 pieces. The silver coins
include dollars, half dollars, quarter

dollars, dimes of 10 cents, 5 cent pieces
and 3 cent pieces. Gold and silver,
however, circulate only in the Dominion
of Canada and in California. Accounts
in the United States are kept in
" Currency", that is in paper-money, and
gold is at a premium. There are bank
notes issued by the United States Treasury
(green backs), and by the "National
Banks," having a value of 10, 15, 25 and
50 cents, of i, 2, 5, 10, 20, &c., dollars.

II. EUROPE TO AMERICA.

The inconvenience unavoidably con-
nected with a long sea voyage is reduced
to a minimum on the numerous steam-ship
lines which connect Europe almost daily
with the ports of the United States and
of the British Dominions. The steamers
are large, and furnished in the manner of
a first-rate hotel, the cuisine is usually
excellent, and during summer even " bad
sailors " will derive pleasure from the
trip.

tffcg Secure your berth as early as possible,
and amidships. Place yourself on a pleasant
footing with your steward and "boots, "by
holding out the prospect of a gratuity at the
end of the voyage (say los. 6d. and 53.
respectively).

The traveller has many steam ship lines
to choose from. We content ourselves
with enumerating them and refer for
further particulars to the Appendix.

LIVERPOOL.

LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK.

National Line, every Wednesday.
White Star Line, every alternate Thursday.
Inman Line, every alternate Thursday.
Cunard Line, every Saturday.

All these steamers call at Queenstown (Cork)
on the following day, where passengers may
embark.

LIVERPOOL TO BOSTON.

Cunard Line, every Tuesday, calling at
Queenstown and Halifax, Nova Scotia.

National Line, every fortnight, calling at
Queenstown.

LIVERPOOL TO PHILADELPHIA.

American Line, every Wednesday, calling
at Queenstown.

LIVERPOOL TO QUEBEC.

Allan Line, direct, every Thursday, calling
at Moville (Londonderry) and Portland.

Dominion Line, every Wednesday, calling
at Moville and Portland (Maine).

LIVERPOOL TO PORTLAND (MAINE).

Allan and Dominion Lines, on Thursdays
and Wednesdays.

LIVERPOOL TO BALTIMORE.

Allan Line, every alternate Tuesday, via
Queenstown and Halifax, N. S.

LIVERPOOL TO HALIFAX.

Allan Line, every Tuesday.

SOUTHAMPTON.

SOUTHAMPTON TO NEW YORK.

North German Lloyd, Tuesdays, at 2 p.m.

SOUTHAMPTON TO BALTIMORE.

North German Lloyd, every alternate
Saturday.

GLASGOW.

GLASGOW TO NEW YORK.

Anchor Line, every Saturday, calling at
Londonderry.

Slate Liue, on alternate Fridays, calling at
Belfast.

GLASGOW TO QUEBEC.

Tuesdays, calling at Belfast.
6

II. EUROPE TO AMERICA.

LONDON.

LONDON TO NEW YORK.

National Line, every alternate Wednesday.
BRISTOL.

BRISTOL TO NEW YORK.

Great Western Line, every fortnight.
PLYMOUTH.

PLYMOUTH TO NEW YORK.

French Transatlantic Line, on alternate
Sundays.

HULL.

HULL TO NEW YORK.

Wilson Line, on alternate Wednesdays.
BREMEN.

BREMEN TO NEW YORK.

Notth German Lloyd, on Saturdays, calling
at Southampton on following Tuesday.

BREMEN TO BALTIMORE.

North German Lloyd, on alternate Wednes-
days, calling at Southampton on following
Saturday.

HAMBURG.

HAMBURG TO NEW YORK.

Hamburg American Company, on Wednes-
days, calling at Havre on following Saturday.
(On their return voyage these steamers call at
Plymouth and Cherbourg).

ROTTERDAM.

ROTTERDAM TO NEW YORK,

Netherlands' American Company. On
alternate Wednesdays.

ANTWERP.

ANTWERP TO NEW YORK.

White Cress Line, every 20 days.

ANTWERP TO PHILADELPHIA.

Red Cross Line, every 24 days.
HAVRE.

HAVRE TO NEW YORK.

Hamburg American Line. On Saturdays.

French Transatlantic Line, on alternate
Saturdays, calling at Plymouth on following
Saturday.

Vessels sailing from Southampton or
Continental ports bid farewell to the
shores of Europe at the Bishop's Rock,
the westernmost part of the Scilly
islands ; those sailing from Liverpool at
Cape Clear, to the west of Cork. The
voyage across the Ocean occupies from
7 to 12 days. Its monotony may be
relieved not only by the amusements
always afforded on board, but also by
paying some attention to the animal life
of the ocean. Terns are soon left
behind, but gulls follow the vessel
for miles. On the open Atlantic
kittiwakes and storm petrels (Mother
Carey's chickens), whose appearance the
sailors erroneously look upon as predict-
ing a storm, are most abundant, whilst
scuas, fulmars and shearwaters are
seen less frequently. Schools of porpoises
follow in the wake of the vessel, the
grampus (thrasher or killer) and real
dolphins may be observed from deck, as
also flying fish, and occasionally fin-backs
and pot-whales. The brown head whale,
however, is confined to the Arctic Ocean.

On approaching the banks of New-
foundland dense fogs are frequently met
with. Vessels bound for Halifax, Port-
land or Boston first sight the coast of
Nova Scotia, but to those proceeding to
New York the land is hidden until they
approach the smiling hills of Long Island.

Pilots come on board off the bar at
Sandy Hook, a low tongue of land, with
a light house and fortifications on the
left. The bold Highlands of Navesink
are seen on the left, we enter the Lower
Bay of New York. The low beach of
Long and Coney islands is on our right,
whilst in front of us rise the hills of Staten
island. We pass the Quarantine station,
built on a shoal, and then pass the
Narrows, defended by several forts, and
enter the magnificent harbour of New
York.

(Wg" The steamers land their passengers
either at New York, or at Hoboken or New
Jersey opposite. On arrival, and having passed
through the Customs' House Examination,
place your baggage in charge of an Express
Company Agent, who will convey it to
your hotel.

III. NEW YOBK.

CONVEYANCES. Tramways (Cars) and Omnibuses
(Stages), cross the city in all directions, the usual fare
being 5 cents. Cabs are expensive (1 an hour).
Ferries connect New York with Hoboken, Jersey City.
-Brooklyn, &c.

The only Railway Depots for passengers are in the 4th
Avenue and 42nd street (tram from Astor House) and
in 30th street.

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. Theatres : Academy of
Music, 14th street ; Lyceum, 14th street ; Opera House,
8th avenue and 23rd street ; Booth? 's, 6th avenue and
23rd street ; Libia's, Broadway ; Wallaces, Broadway
and 13th street.

Music HALLS. Central Park Garden and Atlantic
Garden (Bowery) ; Stelnway Hall (for Concerts), 14th
street.

GARDEN?. Lion Park Garden in 8th avenue, and
many others, much frequented by Germans.

(1 NEW YORK

'4 \ Sta.MUea. '

YORK, the capital of the state of the
same name, and the largest city of the
American continent, occupies the larger portion
of Manhattan Island, at the mouth of Hudson
river, which bounds it on the west, whilst an
arm of the sea, known as East river, separates
the city from Long Island. The width of
these rivers nowhere exceeds a mile. Opposite
to New York, on Long Island, are Brooklyn,
\Villiamsburg, and other places which must be
looked upon as suburbs of the city, and the
same applies to Jersey city and Hoboken, on
the western bank of the Hudson or North river.

The Harbour of New York is one of the
finest in the world. Its entrance, at Sandy

Hook, is i8 miles from the "battery," at the
southern extremity of Manhattan Island.

New York was founded in 1614, by the
Dutch, who called it New Amsterdam. Its
name was changed to that of New York, in
1664, when it fell into the hands of the English.
At that time it scarcely numbered 2,000
inhabitants. It boasts now of a population of
942,377, or, including its suburbs, of 1,500,000
inhabitants ; 20,000 vessels annually enter its
harbour, merchandize to the value of^79, ooo, ooo
is imported from abroad, and American produce
valued at ,72,000,000 is exported.

WALKS THROUGH THE CITY. "We start from the open
area known as the Battery, and walk thence along the
Broadway and Fifth avenue to the Central Park (5,
miles), occasionally digressing to the left or right.

The BATTERY, at the confluence of the Hudson and
East river, is an open space, formerly a fashionable
promenade. " Castle Garden" there, formerly a fort,
is used now as a receiving depot for immigrants.
Observe the Elevated Railway which begins here.
Also the Produce Exchange.

The BROADWAY is the principal business thoroughfare
in the city.

Down Chambers-street to Exchange, back through.
Wall-street (Custom House, Stock Exchange and Sub-
Treasury).

Trinity Church, with a steeple 284 feet high, is oppo-
site Wall-street. It was consecrated in 1846. The
steeple should be ascended. St. Paul's Church ; Astor
House, one of the oldest hotels. Past Herald Office and
Park Batik, which occupy the site of Barnum's Museum,
to the new Post Office and the

CITY PARK (in its centre the City Hall and the Court
House, both in white marble. Printing House-square
adjoins the Park on the east, (statue of Franklin,
Tribune Office). At its upper end, entrance to
Pneumatic Tunnel.

The Freight Depot of the New York Central and
Hudson River Railroad, is close by (big bronze, illus-
trating Vanderbilt's career).

At Leonard-street turn down, to the " Tombs," a
prison, in the Egyptian style.

Down W. 4th street to Washington-sqiiare (New
York University, a gothic building) .

On reaching 8th street, to the right, to Astor Place.
Here the Bible House of 'the American Bible Society,
the Cooper Institute, founded by a New York merchant,
as a Science and Art School, the Mercantile Library,
and close by, in Layfettc-street, Astor Library.

Soon after our return to the Broadway we
pass Stewards Store and Grace Church. We
then cross Union-square and reach 5th Avenue
at the corner of Madison-square.

Before proceeding further, walk to corner of 5th
Avenue and 23rd street, where Academy of Design;
then back, to corner of 6th Avenue, where Masonic
Hall.

IV. -NORTHERN TOUR.

5th Avenue is one of the fashionable streets
of New York. One of the finest buildings
there is Mr. Stewart's Palace (corner of 34th
street), further on we pass the distributing
Reservoir of the Croton Water Works,
Emamiel Temple and St. Patrick's Roman
Catholic Cathedral, and finally reach

CENTRAL PARK, which covers an area of
843 acres, contains the vast Reservoirs of the
Water Works, several lakes, an Observatory,
Museum, &c. An omnibus (25 cents) conveys
visitors round and through the park.

Hamilton Square, with the Wormal College, a fine
Gothic building, is near the Park.

We return from the south-western corner of
the Park through 8th Avenue (Opera House,
23rd street), Hudson-street, Canal-street and
West Broadway to the City Park.

2. BROOKLYN. From City Park down
Fulton-street, and by ferry across East River to
Fulton-street, Brooklyn (the new Suspension
Bridge seen above). Tram to Prospect Park,
600 acres (far superior to the Central Park), with
distant views ; thence by tram or on foot (about
a mile) to Greenwood Cemetery (implicity follow

the directions of the guide boards) ; thence by
tram to the Atlantic Basin (2f miles), and by
Hamilton ferry, past Governor's Island, to the
Battery.

3. EXCURSION TO HIGHBRIDGE. Start
by steamer from Pier No. 24, on the East river
(Peck Slip, I mile from Battery) ; up the East
river as far as Harlem (8 miles), then 3 miles
along Harlem river to High Bridge (the aque-
duct of the Croton Water Works. On the
route we pass Blackwell's Island, the Hell or
Hurl Gate, Ward's and Randell's Islands, on
which there are Almshouses, Penitentiaries,
Infirmaries and similar public institutions.
From High-bridge we return to Harlem by
steamer, and thence by Railroad to the Grand
Central Depot (on leaving the Depot observe
Park Avenue and its plantations) ; a tram car
conveys us from the Depot through 4th Avenue,
Union-square and the Bowery, to the City Park.
This excursion to Highbridge occupies about 5 hours.

If there still remains time at your disposal, you may
visit Greenwich-street, to the west of the Broadway,
with its elevated railway, explore the purlieus of the
Bowery, or even proceed by steamer to Staten Island.

IV.-NORTHERN TOUR.

g^" This tour of 20 days takes us through one of
the most interesting portions of the United States and
of Canada. The scenery of the "White Mountains, of
the lakes in the northern portion of Vermont and New
York, of portions of the St. Lawrence and the Hudson,
is fully equal to anything to be met with in Europe,
and in certain respects surpasses it. Our tour extends
over 2,269 miles, being a rate of travelling equal to
about 113 miles a day. If the tourist be pressed for
time, he may abandon the navigation of St. Lawrence,
and the visit to Ottawa (10th to 16th day), and thus
reduce his trip to 13 days. On the other hand, a few
days additional may be spent in the "White Mountains
and elsewhere.

1ST DAY. NEW YORK TO BOSTON.

218 miles in 12 hours.

Rail direct, 234 miles in 8 hours. Preference to be
given to following route.

NEW YORK TO NEWPORT (150 miles) by
Fall River Steamers, starting daily at 4 or 5
p.m., reaching Newport very early in the
morning. The steamer passes up East river,
and through Hell Gate, into the Long Island
Sound. This first part of the journey most
interesting.

NEWPORT (Rhode Island) is one of the
most ancient cities of the union (founded 1637)

and up to its evacuation by the British, it
exceeded NewYork in commercial importance.
It is now one of the most fashionable sea-side
resorts. The old town,, near the shore, the new
city, on heights overlooking the sea. In the
former a curious round toiver, or stone mill,
absurdly stated to have been built by Norse
adventurers in the loth century. By all means
visit the " Beaches," and their curious rocks.

NEWPORT TO BOSTON, 68 miles in 2 hours,
by Old Colony and Newport Railway. We
cross channel separating Rhode Island from
main land, and reach Fall River (19 miles), an
important manufacturing city of Massachusetts.
The line passes through a pleasant country,
with numerous manufacturing towns. The
principal stations are Dighton (27 miles),
Taunton (34 miles), Braintree (57 miles), and
Quincy (60 miles, granite quarries).

Altr.rnaf.iv?. Route, ]S"ew York to Boston, by rail.
We pass Newhaven (73 miles), the largest city of
Connecticut, the seat of Yale College, one of the best
known Universities in the States, and the beautiful city
of Hartford (109 miles), with new State House, City
Hall, Trinity College and Colt's firearms manufactory.

IV.-NORTHERN TOUR.

2ND DAY. BOSTON.

Cabs, $1 for first hour, 50c. for second hour, or part
thereof, or $4 a day. Two-horse cabs twice that
amount.

Boston, the capital of New England, is the
most European-looking city in the United
States, and may fairly boast of its educational
institutions, its refinement and wealth. The
city proper occupies a peninsula, which is
connected by bridges with the suburban towns
of Cambridge, Charlestown, East Boston, and
South Boston. Population, 342,000 souls.

Railway Depots : r. Fitchburg. 2. Eastern and Lowell.
3. Boston and Maine. 4. Hartford and Erie. . Old Colony.
6. Boston and Albany. 7. Providence. 8. Eastern,

State House, on the summit of a hill,
near the Common and City Gardens (ascend
cupola) ; through City Gardens to Natural
History Museum (rich in birds), and Polytechnic
School^ in Boylston-street ; through latter (past
public library and Masonic Hall) to Tremont-
street ; Old Court House; Faneuil Hall (was
used as a place for popular meetings during
the revolution) and Quincy Market ; Custom
House; State-street (Custom House, Exchange
and Old State House); Washington-street to
corner of Milk-street, where Old South Chapel,
now Post-office.

In School-street (on right) the City Hall.

Then explore the " Burnt District," covering
an area of 60 acres, the principal business
portion of the city, which was burnt in 1872,
but has since been re-built.

The suburbs of Boston are charming, and
the following excursions make them known
to us :

1. Harvard University, the oldest college
in the country, founded in 1638, is 3 miles
from the centre of the city, and can be reached
by cars starting from Bowdoin-square. Auburn
Cemetery, a delightful Park, the property of the
Horticultural Society, is I mile further.

2. Bunker Hill and its monument, is

reached by a car starting from Court-street
and Tremont-street. It passes over Charles-
town Bridge, and returns by Warren Bridge.

3. Dorchester Heights, in South Boston
(2 miles from State Hall), afford fine view over
city. Cars from Court -street.

4. Milton, fine suburb, car from Broad and
State-streets.

WHITE MOUNTAINS.

3RD DAY. BOSTON TO NORTH CONWAY.

158 miles in 6 hours.

BOSTON TO ALTON BAY, 96 miles in 3^
hours. Start from Boston and Maine Depot.
We cross Charles river, pass Maldon and
Reading, two manufacturing towns, and reach
Lawrence (26 miles) on the Merrimac, which
supplies the mills of the town with water
power. Down the Merrimac to Bradford
(noted Female Academy), and across it to
Haver hill (33 miles). The line passes through
a picturesque country. We enter New Hamp-
shire. At Dover (68 miles), the oldest town
in the state, founded 1623, we reach the
Cocheco river (waterfalls) and pass along it
to Rochester (78 miles), and New Durham
(92 miles), near its source, where there are
numerous small lakes. A few miles more,
and we are at Alton Bay (96 miles), on

WINNIPISSEOGEE LAKE, which is a beau-
tiful sheet of water, studded with islands, and
25 miles in length. A steamer conveys us to
Wolfboro' (10 miles), a favourite summer
resort.

WOLFKORO.' TO NORTH CONWAY, railway,
52 miles in 2\ hours. After 12 miles we reach
the main line at Wolfboro.' Junction. The
White mountains rise in front of us. The
principal station is Ossipee, near some lakes.

14-

IV.- NORTHERN TOUR.

At Conway we reach the Saco river, and
follow it to North Conway, a favourite resort
of artists.

4TH DAY. CONWAY TO MOUNT WASHINGTON.

CONWAY TO THE GLENHOUSE, 20 miles
(stage or carriage). Our road leads up Ellis
river, past Glen Ellis Fall and Crystal
Cascade, and over Pinkham Notch to the
valley of the Peabody and Glenhouse.

MOUNT WASHINGTON, 6,285 feet, is ascended
from here by an easy carriage road. There
is an hotel at the top where we propose to
pass the night.

Mount "Washington is the most elevated summit of
the White Mountains, which cover an area of about
40 square miles, and are considered to rival the
mountains of Switzerland in beauty. In some of the
ravines snow remains throughout the year.

5TH DAY. CRAWFORD HOUSE.

The descent from Mount Washington can
be effected by means of a railway, similar to
to that of the Rigi, which takes us to White
Mountain House, or by a long Bridle Path,
to Crawford House, the latter deserving the
preference.

CRAWFORD HOUSE (1920 feet), is close to
the celebrated Willey's Notch, a narrow defile,
3 miles in length, which should be explored.
If time and strength admit ascend Mount Willey
from here. It rises to a height of 4,200 feet,
and commands a most wonderful view.

6TH DAY. PROFILE HOUSE.

PROFILE HOUSE stands in the centre of the
FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, which are a portion
of the White Mountains. We proceed by rail
to Littleton (25 miles), passing White Moun-
tain House and Bethlehem on the road ; and
thence by stage (n miles).

Eagle Cliff and Cannon Mountains close to
Hotel. Visit Echo Lake and ascend Mount
Lafayette (5,280 feet, bridle path.)

7TII DAY. PROFILE HOUSE TO NEWPORT.

132 miles in about 9 hours.

PROHLE HOUSE TO PLYMOUTH, 24 miles
(stage or carriage.) The road leads through
the famous Franconia Notch and down
Pemigewasset river. Observe the Basin, the
Flume, and Harvard Falls. (Start to meet
mail-train at Plymouth.)

PLYMOUTH WELLS RIVER, 43 miles (rail)
in 2.V hours, through fine mountain scenery.
At Wells river, beautifully situated on the
Connecticut river, in Vermont, we change to
the Connecticut and Passumpsic Railway.

WELLS RIVER TO NEWPORT. 65 miles in
3^ hours. A charming ride. At Barnet
(n miles) we leave the Connecticut and
proceed up the Passumpsic, on which are
St. Johnsbury (21 miles), and Lyndon ville
(28 miles.) At South Barton (45 miles) we
pass from the basin of the Connecticut into
that of St. Lawrence. At Newport (65 miles),
we reach the southern end of Memphremagog
Lake.

The train continues to Montreal and Quebe, reach-
ing the former at 6.30, the latter at 7.30, on the next
morning.

CANADA.

8l'H DAY. MEMPHREMAGOG LAKE TO
MONTREAL.

125 miles in 9 hours.

MEMPHREMAGOG LAKE is a beautiful sheet
of water, 35 miles in length, and bounded by
precipitous cliffs. About midway the boundary
between Vermont and the dominon of Canada
crosses it.

Having ascended Prospect Hill, at the back
of the village of Newport, early in the morning,
we proceed by steamer to Magog, at the lower
end of the lake (35 miles.)

Thence the Train conveys us to Montreal
(90 miles in 4 hours), which we reach about
10 at night. The only station of any
importance is St. John's, where we cross
the Richelieu river flowing from Lake Cham-
plain. The St. Lawrence is crossed on the
Victoria bridge.

Alternative Sotite : Newport to Stanstead (6 miles) ,
by steamer. Thence by train, via Lennoxville and
Richmond (136 miles in 7 hours). The first portion of
this journey leads through a most picturesque country.
Montreal is reached at 6.30. on the following morning.

9TH DAY. MONTREAL.

Cabs, 25c. a drive, 5oc. an hour.

MONTREAL, the principal city of the Do-
minion of Canada, is situated on an island of
the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Ottawa.
The name of the Indian village which stood on
its site was Hochelaga, and the first European
settlers arrived there in 1542. A majority of
the inhabitants are of French descent and
Roman Catholics. Mount Royal lies at the
back of the town, and fine quays line its river
front. A magnificent railway bridge, named
in honour of Queen Victoria, and 9,194 feet
in length, crosses the St. Lawrence.

The following are objects of interest : St. Paul's-
street, the chief business thoroughfare, on tl e river
(Custom house) ; Exchange, in Sacrament-street ; Vic-
toria-square (St. Patrick's Hall) ; Charles-street (Post
Office) ; Place d' Arines (Cathedral Notre Dame, with

IV. NORTHERN TOUR.

2 towers, 220 feet high each, Seminary of St. Sulpicc,
several banks); Xotrc Dame-street, [Court house];
Bonsecour's market (ascend the Dome) ; Champ do Mars
(Geological Museum) ; Christ Church (Protestant), with
a spire 220 feet high ; St. Andrew's Church, a miniature
copy of Salisbury Cathedral ; New Catholic Cathedral
and Hospital, in Dorchester-street.

Then drive round Mount Royal, past McGilVs College
and Mount Royal Cemetery.

Excursion (to be made only if it is not proposed to
follow the routes arranged for the 12th day) . Train at
7 a.m,.fromBonaventure station to Lachine (30 minutes);
thence back by steamer (through the Rapids) to Mon-
treal. This interesting and exciting trip only occupies
two hours.

IOTH DAY. MONTREAL TO OTTAWA.
122 miles in Il| hours, starting at 7 a.m.

a. Proceed from Bonaventure-street station
by rail to Lachine (10 miles), an old village,
the old head quarters of the Hudson's Bay
Company.

b. Steamer up Lake St. Louis, an enlarge-
ment of the St. Lawrence, past St. Ann's
(Moore's Canadian boatmen's song), and
through the bridge of the Grand Trunk Rail-
way up the Ottawa and through Two-Mountain
Lake, to Carrillon, at the foot of the lower
rapids (50 miles).

c. Here we leave the steamer and proceed
by rail to Grenville (12 miles), where another
steamer awaits us.

d. Steamer up the river to Ottawa (50 miles)
through a densely wooded country, and past
L'Original and Buckingham.

IITH DAY. OTTAWA TO KINGSTON

(LAKE ONTARIO).

113 miles in 5f hours.

The city of Ottawa should be explored on the
evening of the 10th day and early on the llth, for our
train starts at 10 a.m.

OTTAWA. The new capital of the Dominion,
occupies a most picturesque position on the
Ottawa river, which forms the Chaudiere Falls,
and is spanned by a Suspension bridge. High
on Barrack Hill, the new Parliamtnt House,
Government Offices and the Queen's Printing
House, most imposing blocks of buildings in the
Gothic style, very different from the Capitols of
American cities. Observe the lumber " shoots"
on the river.

OTTAWA TO KINGSTON. Rail 113 miles.
After a ride of 3 hours we reach Prescott on the
St. Lawrence (54 miles), and then follow the
left bank of that river as far as Kingston, where
it debouches from Ontario Lake. Kingston,
the old capital of Canada, was founded in 1783,
on the site of Fort Frontenac of the French.
It is fortified.

ST. LAWRENCE.

12TH DAY. KINGSTON TO MONTREAL.

170 miles in about 10 hours.

The boat starts about 4 in the morning. We
pass through the Thousand Islands (actually
about 1, 800) which extend fora distance of 40
miles. We then reach Prescott, and the
American town of Ogdensburg, nearly opposite.
Below these towns Albert Bridge spans the
river. It is 15,500 feet in length and cost
^800,000 to build. Then begins the most
interesting and exciting part of this journey,
viz. : "Shooting the Rapids," a feat first
attempted in 1840, after the course taken
by lumber-rafts had been watched. These
rapids are avoided by canals, but these are
used only by vessels going up the stream. The
rapids known as the Gallopes are encountered
first ; the Long Sault Rapids are the longest ;
but the Lachine Rapids, which we reach after
having crossed the Lake of St. Louis, close to
Montreal, are the most formidable of all.

I3TH DAY. MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.

1 60 miles in about 10 hours, by steamer.

We start from Montreal at 7 p.m., only an

hour or so after our arrival from the upper St.

Lawrence. Excellent sleeping berths and

supper on board. The scenery, except in the

immediate vicinity of Montreal, is tame, but

the Steward should be requested to call us

an hour before arrival at Quebec, which takes

place early in the morning.

QUEBEC is the oldest city in the British
Dominions. It was founded in 1608, by
Champlain, and captured by General Wolfe
in 1759. It consists of a Lower Town, (the
principal place of business, with Exchange,
Post Office, &c.) and an upper town, strongly
fortified. Our first walk is directed to the
Citadel, on Cape Diamond, considered to be
impregnable. From it we can see the monu-
ment on Abraham Plains, erected in honour of
Wolfe and Montcalm. We then visit the
following objects of interest (all in the upper
town) :

Parliament House (erected since 1854). Durham
Terrace, on the site of the old castle of St. Louis, 2.JO
feet above the river. The Roman Catholic Cathedral ;
Laval University (Huron antiquities, birds), and the
Barracks (an old Jesuit College), on Market-,
the Anglican Cathedral, on the Place d' Armes ; the
Public Gardens.

A walk along St. Louis-road takes us to the Plains
of Abraham, and to Mount llcrmon cemetery (3 miles),
which slopes down to the St. Lawrence.

If time admits, a visit may be paid to the Mont-
morenci Falls, 9 miles from Quebec (fall 250 feet), and
to the " Natural Steps" f mile above them.
IS

IV. NORTHERN TOUR.

CURSION to the 3AGTJEN AY.

I4TH DAY. QUEBEC TO RIVIERE DU LOUP.

1 14 miles, IO hours by steamer.

The steamer leaves in the morning. We
pass Orleans Island, below which the St.
Lawrence is never less than 10 miles wide, and
its water salt. At Grosse Isle, (24 miles) is
the quarantine station for immigrants. Then
follow Crane, Goose and other islands. We
stop first at Murray Bay (Malbaie, 90 miles)
and then cross over to Riviere du Loup or
Fraserville, where we remain during the night,
sleeping on board.

I5TH DAY. THE SAGUENAY.

Early in the morning we cross over to
Tadousac (20 miles), at the mouth of the
Saguenay, and proceed for 60 miles up that
remarkable river, which runs through a cleft
in the rocks, with walls rising on either side
perpendicularly to a height of 1,500 feet.
Amongst the remarkable precipices pointed
out are Cape Eternity, Trinity Rock, and
Statue Point. At Ha Ha Bay our steamer
stops and then returns to Riviere du Loup,
which is reached in the evening.
Visit the "Waterfall, 1 mile from village.

l6TH DAY. RIVIERE DU LOUP TO MONTREAL

280 miles in 20^ hours by rail.

As far as Chaudiere Junction (118 miles)
we follow the right bank of the St. Lawrence
upwards. A short branch leads thence to
Port Levi, opposite Quebec, but our line turns
away from the river. Richmond (204 miles)
is an important junction. Thence to Montreal
is 76 miles more. By starting at 10.15 a.m.,
Montreal is reached at 6.30 a.m. on the fol-
lowing morning, a long and tedious journey.

The ascent of the St. Lawrence, by steamer, would
prove less fatiguing, and if there is a night service,
may be effected even without losing a day.

MONTREAL TO NEW YORK.

I7TH DAY. MONTREAL TO LAKE GEORGE
(CALDWELL. )

194 miles in about 13 hours. Start at 9 a.m.

MONTREAL TO ROUSE'S POINT (49 miles in
2\ hours). Once more we cross Victoria
Bridge. At St. John's (27 miles) we reach
the Richelieu river, which we follow upwards,
as far as Rouse's Point, where it issues from
Lake Champlain.

LAKE CHAMPLAIN is no less than 180 miles
in length, and varies in breadth from I to 10
miles. On the east it is bounded by the green

hills of Vermont, on the west by the Adiron-
dack wilderness, rising in Mount Marcy, to a
height of 5,467 feet, and holding out great
inducements to the sportsman and pedestrian.
We navigate this fine sheet of water as far as
Ticonderoga (106 miles). At Plaltsburg, our
first halting place, was fought the battle of
Lake Champlain, on sea and land (1814).
Port Kent is one of the landing places for
visitors to the Adirondacks. Burlington,
opposite, is the seat of Vermont University.
At Ticonderoga, where we leave the steamer,
may still be seen the ruins of a fort, one of
the first places captured during the revolu-
tionary war.

A stage branch line takes us from here, past
the falls of the Horiconto Lake George (3 miles).

LAKE GEORGE, is smaller than Lake Cham-
plain, but superior to it, if possible, in natural
beauty. The steamer takes us along its entire
length (36 miles) to Caldwell, a village, where
we remain for the night.

l8TH DAY. SARATOGA, TROY, ALBANY,

' 7 m iles in 5 hours.

CALDWELL TO SARATOGA (31 miles). By
a picturesque stage-road to Glensfalls, on the
river Hudson ; thence by rail in an hour to
Saratoga, perhaps the most fashionable Spa in
America, its ordinary population of 8,000
souls rising sometimes to 30,000 during the
season (July and August). Saratoga offers
nothing except an opera house, ball rooms,
and other places of amusements, for although
the Adirondacks are within a short distance
(Luzerne or Hadley, near a charming little
lake, can be reached in an hour's ride by rail)
the immediate vicinity of the place is void of
interest. (Do not go to Saratoga lake or
swamp).

SARATOGA TO TROY (32 miles in i hour by
rail). Latter part of ride most delightful, the
line passing down the Hudson river, which it
crosses near the mouth of the Mohawk and
the Cohoes Falls.

TROY, a city of 50,000 inhabitants, occupies
an alluvial plain on the left bank of the
Hudson, overlooked by cliffs. The suburb of
West Troy is opposite. Mount Olympus (200
feet in height) to the north of the town, and
Mount Ida to the west of it, should be
ascended.

From Troy, we proceed by rail to Albany (every
hour), or, still better, we cross over to West Troy
(where there is a United States' Arsenal), and travel
thence by horse-car, to Albany (6 miles), every 15
minutes.

IV.-NORTHERN TOUR.

ALBANY, 70,000 inhabitants, was founded
by the Dutch, in 1614, and was known up to
1664 as Willemstarlt. Since 1798 it is the
capital of New York State. The Erie canal
terminates here.

up State-street, from the river-side, to the
public square, where arc the Capitol, State Library,
State Home, and City Hall, all built in marble. The
other buildings worth notice, are the Cathedral and
the gloomy State Arsenal in Eagle-street ; the Uni-
versity buildings ; Van Rensselaer's Manor House, in
the northern part of the city, and Dudley Observatory,
on a hill to the north of the town.

S^" New York can be reached from Albany by rail
(143 miles), in 4 hours.

I9TH DAY. CATSKILL MOUNTAINS.

48 miles in about 5 hours to the Mountain
House, start early.

ALBANY TO CATSKILL, 37 miles (rail) in
i^ hours. The line follows the left bank of
the Hudson. The only town of importance is
Hudson, 13,000 inhabitants (33 miles). Athens
is opposite. At Catskill Station we cross by
ferry.

The Catskill Mountains form part of the
Appalachian mountain system, and attain a
height of nearly 4,000 feet. A stage conveys
us from Catskill Landing to the Mountain-
house (3 hours), from where a magnificent
view of Hudson valley, with the mountains of
New England rising beyond it.

Visit the C.. tskill Falls, 2 miles west of the hotel ; the
North mountain, \ mile to the north ; or, better still,
ascend High Peak, 6 miles west.

20TH DAY. DOWN THE HUDSON TO
NEW YORK.

123 miles in about 9 hours.

The Hudson river, was discovered by Henry Hudson
in 1608, and its scenery rivals that of the Rhine, and,
in some respects, surpasses it. It is the first river too,
which was navigated by a steamer (Fulton, 1807).

CATSKILL MOUNTAIN-HOUSE TO CATSKILL
LANDING^ 12 miles by stage, in about 2 hours.
The boat passes about II a.m.

DOWN THE HUDSON TO NEW YORK, in
miles in 6J hours. The upper part of the
Hudson as far as Newburg and Fishkill
Landing (51 miles), is distinguished by loveli-
ness rather than by grandeur. The principal
places passed thus far, are Rhinebeck Landing
(21 miles), with Rondout and its cement manu-
factories opposite ; and the important city of
Poughkeepsie (36 miles), 22,000 inhabitants,
backed by Vassar Female College on a com-
manding hill.

Below Fishkill we enter the gorge through
the ' Highlands," which extends to Peekskill,
a distance of 17 miles. Butter Hill (1,529 feet),
rises on the right, Bull Hill opposite. West
Point (60 miles), the famous Military Academy
of the United States. Anthony's Nose (1,128
feet), and the Dunderbury are passed beyond,
and at Peekskill (68 miles), opposite to which
is Caldwell Landing, we debouch upon Tappan
Lake, an enlargement of the Hudson, in places
4 miles wide, Croton (74 miles), lies at the
mouth of the Croton river, which supplies New
York with an almost unlimited supply of water.
Sing Sing (70 miles), is a favourite suburban
residence of the New Yorkers. Then follows
Tarry Town (85 miles), with its old Dutch
church, attended by Washington Irving, whose
residence (Sunnyside at Irvington), is pointed
out to you. The ' ' Palisades, " a ran^e of
cliffs of columnar basalt, rise opposite. At
Hastings, the river again grows narrower, and
having passed Yonkers (94 miles), and the
Conventual school on Mount Vincent, we find
ourselves within the limits of the city of New
York (in miles). During the revolutionary
war, this part of the Hudson was defended by
Fort Washington and others, all of which have
disappeared without leaving a trace behind.

V.-CENTRAL TOUR.

This tour extends over 2,6.55 miles, which we propose
to cover in the c jurse of 19 days. "We have allowed
ample time for inspecting the leading features of the
great cities passed through. Night travelling has been
resorted to only in the "West, where the scenery would
not repay for the additional time and money which
would have to be expended were we to dispense with it.

The Southern tour joins this Central tour at Bal-
timore, the Great Western tour at Chicago and St.
Louis.

NEW YORK TO NIAGARA.

1ST AND 2ND DAY. NEW YORK TO NIAGARA.

441 miles in 16 hours by Eric Railway. The greater
part, if not the whole of this route, should be tr
by daylight. We advise the tourist to start from New
York at 9 in the morning, and to spend the night at
Portage. On the following day, a few hours i r
devoted to Buffalo, and the Niagara Falls will then bo
reached about 7 in the evening of the second day.

V. CENTRAL TOUR.

We start at 9 a.m. from the bottom of Chambers-
street. A ferry boat conveys us to the Morris and Essex
Bailway Depot in Jersey City.

After passing through the Bergen Tunnel,
nearly a mile in length, we reach Paterson,
(17 miles), an important manufacturing city
of 3,300 inhabitants, on the Passaic, which
forms a fall here, 90 feet in height. The
remaining stations in New Jersey are not of
particular interest. At Sufferns (32 miles),
the first station in New York, we join the
Erie Railway, which leads up the picturesque
valley of the Ramapo, past Ramapo (34 miles),
Sloatsburg (36 miles), and Newburg Junction
to Turners (48 miles, restaurant). We then
pass through the famous dairy district of
Orange County, which supplies New York
with a great part of its milk. Between Goshen
(60 miles), and Middletown (67 miles), we
cross the Wale Kill river, and beyond
Otisville (76 miles), the line crosses the
Shawangunk mountains, descending on the
other side into the valley of the Neversink,
which joins the floods of the Delaware at
Port Jervis (89 miles), a pretty village in the
midst of fine mountain scenery.

As far as Deposit (177 miles), we follow
the valley of the Delaware upwards. This
river forms the boundary between New York
and Pennsylvania, and as far as Narrowsburg
(123 miles), it abounds in picturesque scenery
and the works of engineering skill. We now
ascend the hills, and having crossed the
Cascade bridge, we reach the beautiful valley
of the Susquehanna, which we follow as far
as Barton, a distance of 60 miles. The
principal stations are Susquehanna (193 miles),
Great Bend (201 miles), Kirkwood, which is
the birthplace of Joe Smith, the Mormon
prophet (206 miles), Binghampton (215 miles),
where there is a State Inebriate Asylum, and
Owego (237 miles).

Owcgo is a neat town of 6,000 inhabitants, connected
by railway with Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake,
second only to Lake George in picturesque beauty, and
the seat of the Cornell University. The distance from
Owego is 33 miles (1J hours), and its visit, though it
would delay the traveller a whole day, would amply
compensate for the time expended.

Elmira (274 miles), is an important manu-
facturing town on the Tioga or Chemung
river, a tributary of the Susquehanna. A few
miles beyond Corning (291 miles), we enter
the valley of the Canisteo, which we follow as
far as Hornellsville (332 miles). At Portage
(362 miles), we reach the Genesee river.

We strongly advise the traveller to stop here for the
night. By rising early in the morning, he will be able
to inspect the beautiful Portage Falls, about a mile
from the village, the aqueduct of the Genesee Yalley

canal, and the grand trestle bridge, the largest wooden
bridge in the world, 238 feet in height, and 800 feet
long.

The remainder of the line as far as Buffalo,
offers little to interest the traveller. The
principal stations are Gainesville (368 miles),
Warsaw (375 miles), and Attica (392 miles.)

BUFFALO (423 miles) ; 118,050 inhabitants, is situated
on Lake Erie, at the head of the Niagara river, and is
a fine city, carrying on a considerable trade, aa.c
abounding in educational anl charitable institutions.
The tourist may profitably spend a few hours here.
He should seek out that portion of the town which is
built on the Bluff, overlooking the Niagara river,
which is spanned by a railway bridge opened in 1873.
Fort Erie, which played so important a part in the
war of 1812, is opposite, on the Canadian side.

From Buffalo to Clifton (25 miles), on the
Canadian side of the Niagara Falls, is a ride of
i^ hours. The line passes along the Niagara
river. We pass Tonawanda, La Salle and
Niagara Falls Station, and cross the river
by the International Suspension bridge below
the Falls.

3RD DAY. NIAGARA FALLS.

There are excellent Hotels on the American as well
as on the Canadian sides of the river, the former
affording the easiest access to the Goat Island and
other sides, the latter the finest view of the Horseshoa
Falls.

Charges for carriages and tolls extravagant.

The Niagara river connects Lake Erie with
Lake Ontario, and is about 36 miles in length.
About 22 miles below Buffalo, its point of

24-

V.-CENTRAL TOUR.

egress from the former of these lakes, the river
shoots over a precipice of rock, about 160 feet,
in height, and forms the famous Niagara Falls ;
Goat Island, in the centre of the river, divides
this fall into the HorseshoeFall (on the Cana-
dian side) and the American Fall, the former
being 1800, the latter 900 feet in width, and it
has been estimated that no less than 28,000
tons of water are shot over this precipice every
second. An elegant suspension bridge spans
the river immediately below the Falls. It is
1,230 feet long, and 256 feet above the river.
Lower down the river there is another Suspen-
sion bridge, for the use of railway carriages
and foot passengers.

AMERICAN SIDE. Cross bridge to Goat
Island, observing the rapids above the falls.
Turn to right. Visit Luna Island and the
Cave of Winds, behind the American Falls.
Descend Biddle's stairs. Cross over to the
new Terrapin Tower, on Iris Islet, at the back
of the Horseshoe Falls. Walk round Goat
Island, crossing to the outermost of the Three
Sisters' Islets, to observe the rapids.

Return over Bath Bridge. Prospect Point,
close to American Falls, and pass down the
inclined railway to a place behind the falls.

CANADIAN SIDE. Cross by Ferry. Past
the Museum to the old site of Table rock, close
to the Horseshoe Falls, and down a shaft and
behind the Falls to Termination rock. Then
up the river for about a mile to the burning
spring, (inflammable gas). Close by is
Chippewa village (battle 1812). Down the
river to the upper suspension bridge, and over
it back to the American side.

If time permits, walk along right bank of
river to the Whirlpools (3 miles below falls),
the Chasm Tower and the Deiil's Hole (4
miles). The column seen in the distance marks
the tomb of the English General Brock, who
fell here in 1812.

4TH DAY. NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT.

Niagara Falls by rail direct (230 miles), in 8J hours.
274 miles by way of Toronto (as described) in about
14 hours.

NIAGARA TO CHICAGO AND
ST. LOUIS.

NIAGARA FALLS TO TORONTO, 43 miles in
4 hours. By rail to Lewiston, a small town on
the American side, 7 miles below the Falls.
Queenston, with General Brock's monument, is
opposite. We embark here on board a
steamer, which makes two trips across the lake

daily. At the mouth of the river (6 miles from
Lewiston), we pass between Niagara fort on
the American, and Massasauga Fort on the
Canadian side. Having stopped at Niagara,
a town on the Canadian side, to receive
passengers which have proceeded thither direct
by rail (from Clifton), the steamer strikes across
the lake, and scarcely have we lost sight of the
land, when the towers of Toronto appear in
the distance.

TORONTO, is the largest city in Ontario. It
was founded in 1793, and now numbers 75j o
inhabitants. Its harbour is well sheltered, and
it boasts of many fine buildings. The follow-
ing should be sought out : the University, a
fine Norman edifice, in a Park ; Osgoode Hall,
in which the Law Courts sit (fine interior) ;

Trinity College, in Queen-street West ; the
Normal School, in Church-street ; St. James's
(English) Cathedral ; St. Michael's (Catholic)

Cathedral; the new Wesley an Church on
McGill-square ; the Exchange, and the provin-
cial Lunatic Asylum. The environs of the town
are uninviting.

TORONTO TO DETROIT, 231 miles (by Grand
Trunk Railway) in 10 hours. We start at
11.15 P' m - fr m Toronto and reach Detroit at
9.25 a.m. The country through which we pass
offers but little of interest. The principal
stations are Guelph (48 miles), Stratford, on the
Avon (85 miles), and Sarnia (168 miles), the
last station in Canada, at the point where the
River St. Clair leaves Lake Huron. Here we
cross into Michigan.

5TH DAY. DETROIT TO CHICAGO.

284 miles, in 10 hours.

DETROIT, Michigan, on the right bank of
the Detroit river, which connects Lake St.
Clair with Lake Erie, is one of the oldest (it
was founded in 1670) and most important cities
in the United States. Its population is 85,000,
and both industry and trade are considerable,
in which respects it differs favourably from
Windsor and other places in Canada, on the
other side of the river. The streets in the
lower part of the town cross at right angles,
those in the upper radiate from the Grand
Circus, like the spokes of a wheel. Many of
them are exceedingly fine, and shaded by trees.

Observe .-The Michigan Central Railway Depot, on

the river, with the wheat elevator near it and the

workshops of the Company; 'Woodbridge-stroet, near

the river, with the Board of Trade buildings ; Griswold-

street, the principal business place, with the Custom

:md Post Office. Woodward Avenue connects

Campus Martins (whore are the Opera House and the

;ir;ent New City Hall) with the Grand Circus.

In the Avenue itself are St. John's Church and the

V.-CENTRAL TOUR.

Central Methodist Church, the finest in the city, both
above the Circus. In Jefferson Avenue which crosses
the former at right angles, are Christ Church
(Episcopal), the Presbyterian Church, the Convent of
the Sacred Heart, and the Roman Catholic Cathedral
of St. Peter and Paul. In West-street, leading out
of the Campus Martius, are numerous fine private
residences, and in Fort-street are several notable
churches.

The environs of the City are exceedingly attractive.

Fort Wayne, 3 miles below it (cars) should certainly
be visited, and it may even be possible to make a trip
down the river by steamer to Grosse Isle (20 miles)
returning in the evening in time for the Train.

DETROIT TO CHICAGO, 284 miles. We
start at 10 p.m by Michigan Central Rail-
way, arriving at Chicago at half-past eight
in the morning. Our routes leads through a
fine agricultural country, and through extensive
forests, hut there is little to attract the
attention of the travellers. At Ypsilanti
(30 miles), we reach the Huron river, the
valley of which we follow upwards past Ann
Arbor, the seat of the University of Michigan,
as far as Dexter (47 miles.) At Jackson
(76 miles), near which are valuable coal mines,
we cross the Grand river, and at Parma
(87 miles), we reach the Kalamazoo river
which passes through a nourishing agricultural
district, and follow its course past Albion,
Marshall and Battle Creek to Kalamazoo
(114 miles), where we leave it. At Lawton
(160 miles), there are important iron works,
and at Niles (191 miles), we cross the St.
Joseph's river, flowing north. Not long after-
wards, at New Buffalo (218 miles), we reach
the shore of Lake Michigan. Our route now
leaves the State of Michigan, passes along the
lake shore through the north western corner
of Indiana, and finally reaches Chicago (284
miles), in Illinois.

6TH DAY. CHICAGO.

Cabs 50 cents a mile for one passenger, $1 for two.

Stages and cars, IS lines. Railways to the suburbs.

Amusements. Me Vicker's Theatre in State-street ;
Academy of Music, near Madison-street ; Myer's Opera
House (Negro Minstrels), near State-street; Tivoli
Garden in Exchange building.

The site of Chicago was temporarily occupied
by the early French explorers, in the 1 7th
century, but the first permanent settlement
of Europeans only dates from the year 1804,
when Fort Dearborn was built, the garrison
of which was massacred eight years afterwards
by the Indians. In 1830 there were only
12 houses, in 1837 when the population was
4,170 souls, the place was incorporated as a
city. In 1843 it numbered 7,580 inhabitants,
in 1850, 20,260 ; in 1860, 109,063 ; in 1870,
299.370, and it is now said to number more

than half a million. Chicago is built on a
plain gently sloping down to the shores of the
lake, and intersected by the Chicago river,
which divides it into three portions. Its

position is an exceedingly favourable one for
commerce. A canal connects it with the
Illinois, and railways with all parts of the
Union. It is the leading grain market of the
new world, and has besides this large dealings
in lumber, in stock and pickled pork. No
visitor should leave without inspecting the
grain elevators on the river, the Union cattle
yards, the lumber yards, and packing houses.
The conflagration of 1871 destroyed 17,450
houses, rendered 98,500 persons homeless,
and did damage to the extent of ^"38,000,000,
but the city has arisen from its ashes in
renewed splendour, and its wide streets and
palatial edifices need not fear comparison with
those in any other city of the Union.

1. "We first of all explore the business parts of the
city, starting from the " Central Depot " at the mouth
of the river. Then through South Water-street, as far
as the Tunnel which connects South and North
Chicago. Up La Salle-street to the Court House, and
to the Chamber of Commerce (strangers' gallery
open 11 to 1). Dearborn-street, with the new Library,
erected on the site of the old Custom House. The New
Custom House and Post Office is near to it. On reaching
State-street, which is the Broadway of Chicago, we
take a Car for the

2. Union Stockyard, which covers an area of 345
acres. Dexter Park (race-course) and the Park of the
Shooting Club are near it.

From here we proceed to the Cottage Grove, over-
looking the lake, where are the buildings of the
f'nirt'i-fiiti/ of Chicago, the Dearborn Observatory, and
the Baptist Theological Seminary.

3. On again reaching the Court House we mount a
"Washington-street stage, which takes us to Union Park
\ I miles, at the western side of which is the Theological
Seminary. Return by car through Madison-street,
which runs south and parallel with "Washington-street.

V.-CENTRAL TOUR.

4. Cross the river (tunnel or drawbridge) and
inquire for the Water ll'orks in Xortli Chicago
( 1 k miles from Court House) . Fine view from Tower.
A tunnel, 5 feet in diameter, is carried from here below
the bottom of the lake, to the " Crib," a small
artifical islet, with lighthouse, two miles from the
shore, where the tunnel rises to the surface.

5. Next inquire for a Car or Omnibus for Lincoln
Park, 230 acres in extent, un the lake shore, to the
north of the town.

If you have time to spare explore the streets and
avenues in that part of Chicago which has been rebuilt
since the great fire. "Wabash Avenue and Michigan
Avenue as well as the streets and avenues further
south are particularly deserving attention.

7TH DAY. CHICAGO TO ST. LOUIS.

280 miles in 11 hours by night train, in 12 hours by
day train. "We advise the tourist to remain the whole
of this day at Chicago, and to spend the night in
travelling. He will then reach St. Louis at 9 in the
morning.

The route crosses the State of Illinois, for
the most part a level prairie country, offering
but few attractions to a traveller in search of
the picturesque. A few miles beyond Summit
Station (12 miles) we descend into the valley
of the Des Plaines (Upper Illinois), which we
follow as far as Joliet (38 miles) a prosperous
town of 10,000 inhabitants, with a Penitentiary
and famous quarries, which have supplied
much of the stone used in the building of
Chicago. At Pontiac (92 miles) we cross
the Vermillion river, and at Normal (124
miles) there are a Normal University and
extensive nurseries. Immediately afterwards
we reach Bloomington (126 miles) 15,000
inhabitants, one of the most important cities
of the state, with an opera house, mills and
factories, in the centre of a wealthy grazing
district. Lincoln (157 miles) bears its name
in honour of the late President. At Sherman
we cross the Sangamon river, and soon after-
wards reach SPRINGFIELD (185 miles) 18,000
inhabitants, the capital of Illinois, a fine city
in a prairie, with a new state capitol, an
arsenal, court house, a well known watch
factory, and numerous educational establish-
ments.

At Alton (257 miles) we obtain our first
sight of the mighty Mississippi, which 3 miles
lower down is joined by the Missouri. The
scenery about here is very fine, and the
traveller should therefore leave his sleeping
berth betimes (say at half-past seven in the
morning). At East St. Louis (280 miles) we
are opposite St. Louis, and cross the river by
a magnificent bridge of three steel arches, the
centre one being 520, the two others 500 feet
each wide. They are supported on granite
piers. The cost of this noble structure ex-
29

ceeded 4 million dollars. We then pass
through a tunnel, 4,194 feet long, and reach
the Union' Depot.

STH DAY. ST. LOUIS.

Amusements. Operallouse on Pine-street ; Olympic
Theatre on 5th-strcct; Varieties, Market-street (gen-
tlemen) ; Apollo Gardens, 4th-strect (German) ; Uhrigs
and Schneider's beer-gardens, also visited by ladies.

Cabs, 2 for first hour.

St. Louis occupies a series of ridges on
the west bank of the Mississippi river, and is
the most important city of the west. It was
founded in 1764, as a port of the Louisiana
Fur Company, but as recently as 1830 it had
only 5,800 inhabitants. In 1860 the popu-
lation was 160,773, m l %7 3 x 25963. The
German element is very strong, and the Irish
likewise are numerous, and have largely sup-
planted the negro in the hotel service. The
lower parts of the city are given up to business,
but at some distance from the river there are
fine streets and avenues, with noble residences.

1. "We start from the magnificent bridge over the
Mississippi, already described, and direct our attention
first of all to the large warehouses in Front-street,
facing the river, and to the shipping. Exchange,
Custom House and Post Office, a fine marble building.
Court House, with a high dome, the centre of traffic.
Masonic Hall in Market-street. Polytechnic school
in 7th-street close by, with large library. Jlcrca/iti/i
Library in 5th-street. Union market, 5th-strect. St.
./.f/tiis University, a Roman Catholic institution, in
"Washington avenue, one of the finest thorough faros.
The Unitarian church of the Messiah, 9th-strcet and
Olive-street. Missouri Park, and Lucas Place, the
fashianable promenade. High school, Olive-street.
Washington University and the Synagogue in Pine-
street. "Washington square. Temple of Justice (jail,
city and county courts), and along Clark-street until
a car returning to the Court House is met.

V.-CENTBAL TOUR.

This walk extends over 3.J miles, and has taken us
past the principal public buildings. By proceeding
from the Temple of Justice to the new Union Depot,
and thence by way of Chouteau and Mississippi
avenues to Lafayette Park, returning through La-
fayette avenue (at the corner of which is the City
Hospital), the journey to be performed is extended to
7 miles, of which 3 can be performed by car.

2. Take a car and ride along Franklin-avenue and
St. Charles-road, to the "Fair Grounds" of the St.
Louis Agricultural and Mechanical Association. They
cover an area of 85 acres, beautifully laid out, with an
amphitheatre seating 40,000 people, exhibition halls,
music halls, &c. The agricultural shows are held here
annually in October. Return by any other route.

3. Take a car at bottom of "Washington-avenue, and
ride to Hyde Park (160 acres, fine oaks). Return on
foot, top of St. Louis-place, an imitation of " under
the Lindens " at Berlin ; Grand Avenue ; 12th-street
to Mound-street ; Broadway ; then car.

4. Car to Carondelet,-mih its rolling mills, furnaces
and zinc works. From here we strike off towards the
"West, for Missouri Botanical Gardens (5 miles S."W.
of the Court House), which are the property of Mr.
Shaw, who proposes to present them to the town on his
death. They are 41 acres in extent.

ST. LOUIS TO BALTIMORE.

9TH DAY. ST. LOUIS TO LOUISVILLE.

304 miles in 12 hours by day train, in 13| by night
train. Cincinnati is 340 miles from St. Louis (12|
hours journey), and tourists who do not propose to
visit the Mammoth Cave will proceed direct to that
city.

831=" "We advise the tourist to remain at St. Louis
during the day, and start at 6.55 p.m. by night train,
reaching Louisville at 8.45 in the morning.

The route, generally speaking, leads through
an unattractive prairie and forest region.
Having crossed the Mississippi we reach Casey -
ville (19 miles) at the foot of the bluffs, which
bound the "American bottom." Lebanon
(23 miles) is prettily situated. Trenton (30
miles) has much trade in corn. Carlyle (47
miles) on the Kaskaskia river, is one of the
most important timber markets. Sandoval
(60 miles) is surrounded by orchards. The
following stations (Adair, Salem, Xenia, Clay
City and Olney) possess no particular interest.
We then cross the Wabash river into Indiana,
and reach Vincennes (149 miles), one of the
oldest settlements in the state, dating from
the year 1735. Then follow Washington,
Mitchell (branch line to New Albany, near
Louisville), Medora and Seymour (253 miles),
the White river and its branches being crossed
several times. At Seymour we diverge from
the direct line to Cincinnati and, turning to
the south, reach Jeffersonville on the Ohio
(302 miles) and Louisville opposite to it (304
miles).

3' C

IOTH AND IITH DAYS. LOUISVILLE AND
THE MAMMOTH CAVES.

Tourists who do not propose to visit the Mammoth
Caves, pass the forenoon in Louisville, and start in the
afternoon for Cincinnati, which they reach about 9
o'clock in the evening.

(j^H" 3 If it is proposed to visit the Mammoth Cave,
we advise the tourist to start with the first train after
arrival at Louisville. He will then reach the Cave
in the afternoon, about 3 p.m.

On the following morning, if he is an early riser, a
second visit may be paid to the Cave, and starting
about 9 a.m., he will be back at Louisville at 2.15 p.m.,
where he passes the night.

LOUISVILLE, the principal city of Kentucky,
has a population of 130,000 souls, and is situated
close to the rapids of the Ohio river, which
are shot by steamers only when the water is
high. Tobacco is the principle staple of trade
at Louisville. There are also pork packing
establishments, stockyards, grain-elevators and
ironworks.

The sights of the city are soon exhausted.
Starting from the Louisville and Nashville
Railway Depot on the Prater or Broadway,
they may be visited in the following order :

Blind Asylum, Louisville University Medical College.
Down to the Ohio river and the bridge. Court House
and City Hall, the most ambitious building in the
town. Wood's Theatre. Masonic Temple. Louisville
Theatre. Custom House. Cathedral. St. Paul's and
the first Presbyterian church opposite to it. Up 6th-
street, back to the Broadway.

Here take a car going east, which takes you within,
a quarter of a mile of Cave Hill Cemetery.

If time permits go by car to Portland (3 miles from
Court House), cross by ferry-boat over to Albany, and
ascend the hill behind the town (fine view).

LOUISVILLE TO CAVE CITY, 85 miles (rail)
in 4 hours, through pretty country. At Le-
banon (30 miles) we cross the Salt river, to
which disappointed politicians are said to retire,
and at Mumfordsville (73 miles) the Green
river, which is navigated by steamers and flows
into the Ohio.

THE MAMMOTH CAVE is reached from Cave
City by stage (9 miles in 2 hours). There is a
decent hotel at its mouth, where we "layover."
The " Mammoth" is a stalactite cavern, similar
to that of Adelsberg, and in the opinion of
judges who have visited both it is inferior to it.
The Americans, however, look upon it as one
of the wonders of the world. It extends for
9 miles or more into the bowels of the earth,
has its underground lakes and rivers, with
eyeless fish, and passages about 200 miles in
length. It can be explored only accompanied
by guides, who carry oil-lamps or torches.

There is a long route and a short route, the
former extending over 18, the latter over 12

V. CENTRAL TOTJB.

miles of ground. The long route alone leads to
some of the great sights, amongst which are
the Audubon Avenue, the Gothic Chapel, the
Star Chamber, the Bottomless Pit, the Dead
Sea, the Pass el Ghor, the river Styx, Lake
Lethe (crossed in boats) and Echo river, which
finds its way by subterranean passages into
Green river.

I2TH DAY. LOUISVILLE TO CINCINNATI.

110 miles (Louisville, Cincinnati and Lexington
.Railway) in 4 hours.

The route is not particulary interesting. It
passes through the north-eastern part of Ken-
tucky. The Ohio river remains on the left,
but at a considerable distance, until we cross it
at Cincinnati. The principal stations are : La
Grange (27 miles), Worthville (55 miles),
where we cross the Kentucky river, Sparta
(65 miles), Verona (84 miles) and Covington
(105 miles) opposite Cincinnati

I3TH DAY. CINCINNATI.

Cincinnati, occupies two terraces on the northern
bank of the Ohio, which slopes upwards to the base of
the hills. Its river frontage is no less than 10 miles in
length. The city was founded in 1789, on the site of
Fort Washington, but it only increased rapidly in
population after the Miami Canal, which divides it
into two divisions, had been constructed (1830). In
1840, the population numbered 46,383, in 1870, 216,000
souls, amongst whom were 50,000 natives of Germany.
Cincinnati is one of the principal commercial em-
poriums and manufacturing towns of the "West.
There are furniture shops, machine shops, carriage
factories, pork and beef packing houses, foundries, and
other industrial establishments. Much wine is made
in the neighbourhood. Educational and charitable
institutions abound, but there is not a single Gallery
of Art, though the town boasts of being the birth-place
of Hiram Power, Clevinger, Sontag, Frankenstein and
other artists of some note.

A suspension bridge, 2,252 feet in length (central
span 1,057 feet), connects the city with Covington on
the Kentucky side of the Ohio. It was construced by
J. A. Roebling, the engineer of the Niagara bridge.
Another bridge K]>;UH the Ohio higher up.

Hacks charge what they please, cars usually fiOf. a
ride.

Amusements. Pike's Opera House, National The fttre,

skating rinks, and brer pinions in "Little Germany,"
to the north of the Miami canal, which is kmnvn as
the Rhine.

The following walk brings us past the
principal buildings and through the leading
thoroughfares :

1. We start from the Public Landing, an open
space where the steamers land, between the two
bridges. Close by is the Union Hethd, an agglomera-
tion of charitable institutions, with baths, gymnasium,
lecture hall, &c. Up the Broadway. Tip Market-street
and Pearl-street (great business place), as far as Elm-
street. Return through 3rd-strcct (runs parallel
with Pearl-street), in it the Masonic Temple. Up
Sycamore-street, past the National Theatre to 4th-
street, which is a fashionable thoroughfare, and along
it as far as Park-street (1 mile, cars). In it are the
Exchange (large hall, 11 to 1), with first Presbyterian
church adjoining ; the Cincinnati College (in Walnut-
street, close by); Pike's Music Hall (Elizabethan
style) ; the Custom House ; and Hopkins' Music Hall.
On reaching Park-street, turn to the right, and return
through 5th-street. On reaching Hughes' High School.
turn up Mound-street, past Central Presbyterian
church ; St. Paul's and St. John's (both in 7th-street),
to the City Park, where are the City buildings, St.
Peter's Cathedral, a Synagogue, and three other places
of worship. Central-avenue to the Cincinnati Hospital,
a fine edifice.

(Lincoln Park, with the Queen City Skating Kink,
is | mile from here.)

Down 12th-street, over the Miami Canal into "Little
Germany." On reaching Main-street, turn to the right,
cross the canal, past the Court House to 9th-street.
Down 9th-street as far as Elm-street. Back through
8th-street as far as Vine-street. Down latter, past the
Public Library (in it a building intended for an Opera
House), the Mechanics Institute (with watch tower of
the fire department), and the German Catholic
Institution to the Davidson Fountain in 5th-street,
one of the finest works of art in America (cast in.
Munich). Past it as far as Sycamore-street, up latter
to St. Xaxier's College and the Jesuit church. Then
make your way down Broadway, to 4th-street, to
Pike-street, and through Butler-street, to the upper
of the two bridges, and cross the river to Newport.
There you will find a tram car, which takes you back
over the Licking suspension bridge, through Covington,
and over the Lower suspension bridge, to the place you
started from (Distance 8| miles, of which 2 by car).

2. Visit *MOUNT AUBURN (with numerous villas),
and Spring Grove Cemetery, by cars. The latter lies 3
miles to the N.W. of the city, in the Mill Creek valley,
and may be reached also by rail (Depot in 5th-street).

3. Eden Park (216 acres in extent), in the west
part of the city, likewise affords good views.

4. A longer visit might likewise be paid to the
German quarter of the town, with its beer gardens, its
Turner hall (gymnasium) and Arbeiter hall (workmen's
hall).

14'1'H AND ISTH DAYS. CINCINNATI TO
BALTIMORE.

597 miles (by Mariette and Cincinnati and
Ohio and Baltimore Railways) in 23^ to 24
hours,

The scenery between Grafton and
Baltimore is amongst the most picturesque to

V.- CENTRAL TOUR.

l>e met with in the United States, and this
part of the route should under any circum-
stances be travelled by daylight.

We therefore propose to start from Cincinnati
at 11.15 p.m.; our train then reaches Grafton,
at the western foot of the Alleghanies, at
12.50 a.m., in the afternoon. Having enjoyed
a good night's rest in a sleeping car, we are
able to continue the journey and to enjoy the
scenery. At Harper's Ferry, which we reach
about eight in the evening, we remain for the
night, On the following afternoon, about
2 p.m., we resume our journey, and arrive at
Baltimore at 5. 35 in the evening.

CINCINNATI TO GRAFTON, 309 miles in
12 hours. From Cincinnati to Belpre our
route lies through southern Ohio, which, though
not devoid of beauty, would hardly repay the
tourist for losing a night to see it. At
Lffveland (26 miles), we cross the Little Miami
River ; at Chillicothe (99 miles) the Scioto,
which is bounded here by beautiful hills.
This is a place of some importance, and in
1 800-10 it was the capital of Ohio. Athens
(159 miles), on the Hocking river, is noted
only for being the seat of the Ohio University
and of the State Lunatic Asylum.

On reaching Belpre (194 miles) on the Ohio
river, the sleepers should rouse themselves.
The bridge here is 7,042 feet in length,
including the approaches, with 2 spans 350
feet wide each, and 47 others, and it was
built within a space of eighteen months ! On
the other side of the river is Parker sburg., at
the mouth of the Little Kanawha, in West
Virginia. Petroleum is in the neighbourhood,
as well as coal. That portion of West
Virginia through which we pass now as far as
Grafton is densely wooded, and abounds in
coal and petroleum. For some distance we
proceed up the Little Kanawha river, and
then strike east. Petroleum (217 miles), is the
very centre of the oil region. At Clarksbiirg
(277 miles), we cross the Monongahela river,
and, before reaching Grafton (300 miles), the
Tygart's Valley river. It is here the fine
scenery begins.

GRAFTON TO HARPER'S FERRY, 199 miles
in 7f hours. Take your seat on the left, up
the Three fork and Raccoon Creeks to
Naoburg (p^ miles), and then through a most
difficult country, where the route now crosses
ravines on bold viaducts, then clings to the
mountain sides or passes through tunnels, to
Cheat River (24 miles). The Briery Mountains
rise on our left, the "backbone" of the
Alleghanies is seen on the right. We follow

Salt Lick Greek upwards, at first through dense
woods, then through a rocky glen, with laurel
shrubs, until we reach Cranbery Summit
(38 miles), close to the frontier of Maryland.
At Oakland (38 miles), we cross the Youg-
hoganey river, which we follow upwards for a
considerable distance, through the "Glades,"
until we reach Altamount (58 miles), the
highest point of the route, 2,700 feet above
the sea-level. Then down the Crabtree valley,
to Piedmont (74 miles) on the north branch
of the Potomac and at the eastern foot of the
Alleghanies. We thenceforth follow the general
direction of the Potomac river, which forms
the boundary between Virginia and Maryland,
as far as Harper's Ferry, and beyond. After
having passed through the gap of Dan's
Mountains, we descend the picturesque valley
of the Potomac, having Dan's and Wills'
mountains on the left, and the Knobly
Mountains on the right, as far as Cumberland
(104 miles), a town of some importance, with
steel rail mills, and other industrial establish-
ments. About 5 miles below Cumberland
the route crosses to the right bank of the
Potomac. We cross Patterson's creek and
reach Green ^ Spring Run (117 miles), in a
fertile alluvial plain. The south branch of the
Potomac (122 miles) is crossed next, and
then the Little Cacapon Creek, after which
the route leaves the river some distance to the
left, passing through the Paw Paw ridge and
Doe Gully Tunnels, and only returning to the
bank of the Potomac beyond the gap through
Sidelong Hill (146 miles). Soon afterwards
the Great Cacapon river is crossed, and we
reach St. John's Run (152 miles), a station
within a couple of miles of Berkeley springs.
The two next stations, Hancock (158 miles)
and Cherry Run (167 miles) are both on the
Potomac, but having crossed Black River
(magnificent views) we leave that river for a
while, and passing through a forest tract first,
and a well cultivated country afterwards, reach
Martinsbitrg (180 miles), where there are
extensive railway works. It was here the
Confederates destroyed 87 locomotives and
400 trucks. The county here about is open
and well cultivated. At Vanclievesville (185
miles) we cross the Opequan ; we pass
Kearneyville (188 miles) much mentioned
during the war, and at Duffields (193 miles)
find ourselves at the head of the Elk branch,
which takes us down to the Potomac. We
first behold that river through a tunnel, and
soon afterwards find ourselves at

HARPER'S FERRY (199 miles), at the con-
fluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac, a

V. CENTRAL TOUR.

prosperous place before the War, with an
arsenal, which was destroyed on the approach
of the Confederates in 1861.

The scenery around Harper's Ferry is very beautiful.
The river is hemmed in by steep mountains, and the
neighbourhood is know as the "Garden spot of Vir-
ginia." The tourist should visit the Bolivar Heights
above the town.

HARPER'S FERRY TO BALTIMORE, 89 miles
in 35 hours. As far as Point of Rocks (12
miles), at the southern termination of the
Catactin Mountain, we follow the left bank of
the Potomac, and then follow the direction of
the Monocoy valley, which we cross at Frede-
rick Junction (23 miles). Here defeat of
General Wallace by the Confederates. We
now pass through a limestone region, and then
through slate hills, until we reach Mount Airy,
(38 miles), the summit station between the
Potomac and Baltimore. We next pass down
the rugged granite valley of the Patapsco, past
Mariottsville (54 miles), Elysville (61 miles),
and Ellicott's Mills (66 miles), to the old relay
house station now called Washington Junction
(72 miles). The last bit of our railway journey
is by no means the least interesting, for there
are ravines, cuttings and several viaducts, par-
ticularly that over Gwynn's Falis, close to
Baltimore (89 miles).

l6TH DAY. BALTIMORE.

Cabs 75c. a drive, or 1.50 for first hour, 1 for every
hour beyond.

Amusements. Holliday-street Theatre (the oldest in
the state), Ford's Opera House.

BALTIMORE, the metropolis of Maryland,
occupies an uneven piece of ground to the north
of the Patapco river, which falls into Cheasa-
peake Bay, 14 miles below the city. It is one
of the pleasantest and busiest cities of the
Union, and rivals Boston and New York as a
commercial emporium. Grain elevators line
the harbour, and in the Canton suburb, to the
east, are packing houses, sugar refineries, saw
mills, foundries, copper works, &c. The city
was founded in 1729, and in 1870 numbered
267,354 inhabitants. It is called the "Monu-
mental City," because of its two or three
monuments. Charitable institutions abound,
particularly lunatic asylums, and in no other
city of the States is Sunday observed as strictly
as here.

1. (6 miles, of which 1\ by cars). We start from
Mount Vernon-place, in the centre of the city, where
the Washington Column raises its head to a height of
170 feet (ascend to top, which is 312 feet above the
river). Near it is the Peabody I/isfi/t/fimt, with a
library of 50,000 volumes, and the Methodist Episcopal
Church. "West Monument-street to Park-street, where
(,'rrn-r Church, and the first Presbyterian church

(tower 268 feet). Down Park-street to St. Alphonftitx.
Thence to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, an ugly
granite pilCj and the Unitarian Church, in North
Charles-street. Down Charles-street to St. PauPx.
Saratoga-street to the Athenamm. Monument S<iuaiv,
with a monument in memory of the citizens who fell
in defence of the town in 1814, Barnum's Hotel, Guy's
famous restaurant (terrapins), and the Court House.
Thejnew City Hall, the finest building in the town,
with a dome 240 feet in height, and completed in 1875
at a cost of 2,271,000, is close by, and opposite to it is
the United States Court House. Down South-street to
Exchange Place and Exchange, a building with a
dome, which affords ' accommodation to the Custom
House and Post Office.

Here take a car for Fell's Point and Thames-street
on the harbour. Then up Broadivay, as far as
Lombard-street, and another car to Patterson Park
( mile) and back. Again up Broadway, past the
Church Home (an orphan asylum), and Mr. Wildey's
monument, and Jackson-square, to the Maryland
Hospital for the Insane. Return to East-Baltimore-
street, and on your way back to the vicinity of the
City Hall, observe the second Presbyterian church, the
principal synagogue (in Lloyd-street), the shot tower
on the right, and the Maryland Institute, just beyond
the bridge over Jones' Falls.

2. "West Lombard-street to University of Maryland.
Green-street to St. Mary's College, a Catholic semin-
ary. There enquire for a Madison-avenue car, and
ride to the Druid Hill Park (fine view from tower).

3. Green Mount Cemetery also deserves a visit.
The road thither may be taken past the City Prisons
and the State Penitentiary, in Madison -street, or over
Belvedere bridge.

I7TH DAY. BALTIMORE TO PHILADELVtLlA.

98 miles (Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore
Railway) in 3| hours.

On leaving the Station, Fort Henry, at the
mouth of the harbour of Baltimore, is seen on
the right. Gunpowder river, on this side of
Magnolia (19 miles), and Bush river, beyond
it, are crossed on long bridges. We reach

V. CENTRAL TOUR.

Tavre de Grace, at the mouth of the Susque-
into Cheasapeake Bay, pass Charleston
(43 miles), and Elkton (52 miles), and beyond
the latter cross the proverbial boundary line sur-
veyed by Mason and Dixon, in 1762-67, which
became famous as the separation between the
free and the slave states. Wilmington (70
miles), 30,000 inhabitants, on the Brandy wine,
a short distance above its confluence with the
Delaware river, is one of the most important
towns of Delaware, with flour mills and
numerous manufacturing establishments. At
Claymont (78 miles), we cross from Delaware
into Pennsylvania, and soon afterwards reach
Chester (84 miles) one of the oldest towns of
that state, it having been founded by the
Swedes in 1643. At Gray's Ferry (96 miles)
we cross the Schuylkill and enter the city of
Philadelphia (98 miles).

l8TH DAY. PHILADELPHIA.

Hacks, 75c. for first mile, 25c. for every additional
mile, $1 50c. an hour. There are 22 lines of street cars.
Exchange tickets are given by the conductors.

Amusements. Academy of Music (Opera House)
in Broad-street ; Walnut-street Theatre ; llth-street
(Ethiopian) Opera House.

Independence Hall is open daily 9 to 12. Mint, daily
9 to 12, Saturdays excepted. Girard College by tickets
to be obtained at the Daily Ledger Office (no clergy-
men are admitted). Academy of Natural Science
(museum), Tuesday and Friday afternoons. Academy
of Fine Arts (pictures). Institution for the Blind,
Concerts, "Wednesday afternoons, lOc.

PHILADELPHIA occupies a level piece of land
between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, and
to the west of the latter, and only in the

suburbs towards the north is the ground undu
lating, and the scenery attractive. Most of the
streets intersect each other at right angles, are
narrow, and the reverse of attractive. Broad-
street, running from north to south, for a length
of 23 miles, and Market-street, intersecting it
at right angles, divide the town into four
divisions.

Philadelphia was founded by William Penn,
who purchased its site from the Indians, in
1682, but the Swedes had formed a settlement
here long before his arrival. The declaration
of Independence was signed here on the 4th
July, 1776, and this event was celebrated by a
Centennial Exhibition, held in 1876, The
population, in 1876, was 817,448 souls, and
next to New York, Philadelphia is the largest
city in the United States.

1. (3J miles on foot). Start from the Public
Buildings (Penn-square, at the intersection of Broad
and Market-streets, where are the Public Buildings),
follow latter as far as Front-street, and the Delaware. In
6th-street (on right), the Franklin Institute, which
resembles our Society of Arts ; in 5th-street, corner of
Arch-street, Christ Church, with Franklin's grave,
visible from the street ; in 2nd-street close to Market-
street, another Christ Church, built 1727-53, with a
lofty spire ; on the other side of the street, Letitia
court, with Penn Cottage, the oldest house in Phila-
delphia, now a beer saloon; and at the corner of
Front-street the Indian Queen Hotel, once the residence
of Jefferson. Opposite, Smith's and Windmill Islands,
with places of public resort. Along Front-street to
Chestnut-street, and up latter to 3rd-street; near
corner, Girard' 's Sank; lower down, the Merchants'
Exchange. Walnut-street to 4th-street, up the latter
to Chestnut-street, and then to the left. "We pass close
to Carpenters Hall, in which met the Congress of the
United Colonies. In Chestnut-street the Philadelphia
Bank, the Custom House (an imitation of the Par-
thenon), the Post Office and the STATE HOUSE. The
central building was erected 1719-34, the wings, which
are used as a City Hall and County Court House, were
added subsequently. In Independence Hall (which is
shown to strangers between 9 and 2) a statue of Wash-
ington. Independence square is behind the State
House, and close by are the Public Ledger Offices (in
Chestnut-street) ; the Franklin Library, founded in
1731, and the rooms of the American Philosophical
Society, founded in 1743, both in 5th-street.

Proceed down 6th-strect, in which the Athenccum,to
Washington-square, a most interesting Arboretum.
Cross, and down 7th-street to Pine-street, and up latter
to Pennsylvania Hospital (established 1751). Up 9th-

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

street to Chestnut-street, and along latter back to the
Broad-street. On the road we pass close to the Mercantile-
Library, and the new premises of the Academy of
Natural Sciences (museum), both in lOth-strect; the
United States Mint is on the left, near Broad-street.
"We again find ourselves close to Perm-square.

2. (8 miles, of which 2 on foot.) "We now walk
down Broad-street as far as "Walnut-street, observing
the Union League dub, and the old house of the
Academy of Natural Science, at the corner of Chestnut-
street.

On reaching Walnut-street, turn to right, until you
reach Ritten1muse-square,ihe most aristocratic quarter
of the town, then back through Locust-street to Broad-
street, passing St. Marks, near 16th-street. Again
down Broad-street, past the Academy of Music (Opera
House), the Horticultural Society's Hall, and a fine
Baptist church, all of them above Spruce-street ; past
the Deaf arid Dumb Institution at the corner of Pine-
street, as far as South-street. There take a car going
west (to the right). It will convey you past the
United States Naval Asylum (on the left), and over
the Schuylkill river into "West Philadelphia. The
large building on an elevated site, facing you, is the
Blockley Almshouse, and beyond it are the new
buildings of the University of Pennsylvania, an
institution founded in 1797.

Now ask for Market-street, and ride along it (west)
to the Insane Hospital, a vast establishment. Then
ride back on a car, to Pcnn-square. Observe the
Polytechnic Institution at corner of Penn-square, and
the Masonic Temple, with its Gothic Tower.

3. (5 miles to Laurel Hill, of which 2 on foot.)
Start from Penn square, up Broad-street. At corner
of Arch-street, a Baptist church. Near Cherry-street
the Academy of Fine Arts (collection of pictures).
Down Race-street, across Logan square (Roman
Catholic Cathedral, with the inevitable dome), to
20th-street, where the Institution for the Instruction
of the Blind. Up 20th-street to the Preston Retreat.
Straight on to East Penitentiary on Cherry Hill, which
resembles a baronial mansion. Not far from here is
the House of Refuge, and above the latter GIRARD
COLLEGE, an orphan institution erected at a cost of
nearly two million dollars. "We are now close to
Ridge-avenue, where we take a car, which conveys us
to Laurel Hill Cemetery, the finest in Philadelphia.

(KiP^ If time admits of it, we may proceed a short
distance further by car, as far as the "Wissahickon
Creek, this side the suburb of Manayunk. The walk
along this creek is considered to be one of the loveliest
near Philadelphia.)

From the Cemetery we return to town through
Fairmount Park, whith lies on both sides of the

Schuylkill, and covers an area of 1,618 acres. From
<icoviri>'s Hill, a fine prospect. The International
Exhibition was held here, and the "Art Gallery" is to
remain as a " Memorial building."

The return from Fairmount can be effected by
steamer, rail or car.

3. Amongst the few remaining places not yet visited
the following may interest visitors : The United
States Navy Yard, on the Delaware; the County Prison,
Pussyunk-road and lOth-street; the poor monument
commemorating Penn's treaty with the Indians, in
Beach-street, opposite Treaty Island ; and the Epis-
copal Hospital, Huntingdon and Front-streets.

IQTH DAY. PHILADELPHIA TO NEW YORK.

87 miles (by Camden and Amboy railway and
steamer) in about 4 hours,

We cross by ferry to Camden, a suburb of
Philadelphia on the Eastern bank of the
Delaware, and then follow the left bank of that
river upwards to Burlington (19 miles) and
Borden Town (28 miles), 6,000 inhabitants.
We then cross an uninteresting flat portion of
New Jersey to South Amboy (62 miles) at the
mouth of the Raritan river. Perth Aml>oy,
one of the oldest cities in the state, famous for
its fire-bricks, is opposite.

At Amboy we embark on board a steamer
for New York, passing the picturesque shores
of Staten Island, and crossing New York bay
and harbour,

Hiip There is a more expeditious route between
Philadelphia and New York, by the Pennsylvania
Railway (90 miles in 3 hours). "We start from West
Philadelphia, rapidly pass Mantua, Germantown,
Frankford (United States Arsenal) and Kensington,
suburbs of Philadelphia, and then follow the Delaware
as far as Bristol (21 miles,), and Trenton (S2 miles),
the capital of New Jersey. Princeton, with its Pres-
byterian College and Seminary, is seen to the left, on
a ridge. At New Brunswick (58 miles), we cross the
Paritan river. The town has several colleges, hosiery
and other manufactures, and 15,000 inhabitants.
Rahway (71 miles), is likewise a large manufacturing
place. Elizabeth City (75 miles), 21,000 inhabitants, is
a great shipping port for coal, and has oil cloth and
other manufacturies. Then follow Newark (81 miles),
with immense breweries of lager-beer, and Jersey City
(89 miles), opposite to New York, to which we are
conveyed by steam ferry.

VI. SOUTHERN TOUR.

We start from Baltimore and return to that place
after an absence of 33 days, during which we travel
no less than 2,922 miles (2,142 by rail, 754 by steamer,
26 by stage). Five days are devoted to the Spring
Region of Virginia, eight days to a trip to Florida,
and a reasonable amount of time is left for such cities
as "Washington, Memphis, New Orleans, Mobile,
Savannah, Charleston and Richmond. If it is
proposed to travel down the Mississippi to New
Orleans, three days additional must be allowed, nor
should it be forgotten that there are Sundays and

rainy days, during which travelling and sight-seeing
are not always possible. "We have availed ourselves
of night-trains on all suitable occasions. Spring is
perhaps as favourable and convenient a period for
this trip as any. Autumn, and as respects Florida,
even the middle of winter, hold out their advantages,
but summer should be eschewed, although July and
August are the most fashionable months at the Virginia
Springs. Christmas to New Year are days of great
festivities at New Orleans.

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

ggf= When in the south, attend meetings of the
State Legislatures and the religious services of the
Blacks.

1ST DAY. BALTIMORE TO WASHINGTON.

40 miles (Baltimore and Ohio railway) in 1 hour.
The distance between New York and Washington is
228 miles, which is performed in 9 hours.

This route conducts the traveller through a
well cultivated country, but is devoid of
picturesque features. The express only stops
at Washington Junction (9 miles). A green
Car takes us from the Depot to the Capitol.

2ND DAY. WASHINGTON.

Obterrc : Patent Office Museum, daily, 9 till 5 ;
Smithsonian Institution, daily, 9 till 4; Public
Buildings generally, 9 till 3 (no fees) ; President's
receptions, which everybody may attend, daily, 11
till 1.

Onc-liorse Conches, 75 cents, per hour or per course;
Carriages, $1 a mile or $1.50 an hour.

The site of this City was selected by Wash-
ington himself, and it was laid out in accordance
with his plan, but in spite of the eighty years
which have passed since that period, only a
comparatively small portion of its area has been
built upon, and hence the sobriquet of "the
City of Magnificent distances." Pennsyl-
vania Avenue extends from the Capitol to the
President's House, a distance of a mile and a
half. Broad avenues, named after the States
of the Union, radiate from the two terminal
points named, and from other points. Streets
running north and south are numbered, those
running east and west are designated by the
letters of the alphabet.

The CAPITOL, by far the most important building in
Washington, and the prototype of most of the
Capitols met with in other cities of the Union,
occupies an elevated site at the eastern extremity of
Pennsylvania avenue, its main front facing east. The
corner stone of this building was laid by Washington
in 17!)3. In 1814 the new building was burnt by
Admiral Cockburn, but it was restored in 1818, and

two wings have been added since 1851, and "the old
dome has been replaced by one mainly constructed of
iron. The length of the building is 751 feet, it covers
an area of 1,700 square yards, and its dome, sur-
mounted by a Statue of Liberty, rises to a height of
396 feet above the ground. The exterior is ornamented
with sculpture.

Through a bronze door, designed by K. Rogers, and
illustrating the life of Columbus, we enter the
Rotunda beneath the dome. Historical paintings by
American artists, and an allegorical painting by
C. Brumidfi, of which Washington forms the centre,
cover the walls and the canopy. By all means ascend
to the top of the Dome, from which there is a
magnificent prospect.

The door on the left conducts into the Old Hall of
Representatives, in which statues of celebrated
Americans have been placed. The door in front leads
to the Library of Congress (300,000 vols.) and that on
the right into the Supreme Court, formerly used as the
meeting place of the Senate. The room beneath this
court, with curious columns, contains the Law
Library. The new House of Representatives, is in the
south wing of the building, and its strangers' gallery
holds 1,200 persons. The Senate Chamber occupies the
other wing. Other rooms, many of them in the
basement, are shown to strangers.

1. We now walk along Pennsylvania
avenue as far as the White House. About
6th street, numerous hotels. In Qth street,
close by, Ford's Theatre, in which Booth
assassinated President Lincoln (now used as a
Surgeon's Museum), and between Qth and loth
streets, Melzerotfs Hall, now used by the
District Legislature. At 1 5th street, the
Treasury Department, erected since 1836, with
a colonnade, modelled on that of the temple of
Minerva, at Athens. Beyond this is the
PRESIDENT'S MANSION, popularly known as
the White House, which stands in a Park of 20
acres. In front of it, a statue of Jefferson, and
on Lafayette-square, opposite, Mill's equestrian
statue of General Jackson. Beyond the White
House, in 1 7th street, are the offices of the
State, War and Navy Departments, a block of
magnificent buildings, and opposite to these the
CORCORAN GALLERY OF ART, presented to the
city by Mr. Corcoran, a banker, with a collec-
tion of paintings. Still continuing along
Pennsylvania-avenue, we reach a circus with
Mill's equestrian Statue of Washington.

2. Return along K street, as far as lyth
street, then follow latter to Massachusett's-
avenue, where the Louise Home, founded by
Mr. Corcoran. Along Massachusetts-avenue
to Mount Vernon-place. Down Qth street to
the PATENT OFFICE, a magnificent building,
covering two blocks, 410 feet long, 275 feet
deep. On the upper floor is the "Model
Room," a most interesting Museum. The
Post Office, erected 1839-65, is opposite. In D
street, between 5th and 4th streets, are the City

VI.-SOUTHERN TOTTB.

Hall and the Metropolitan Church. Continue
along this street, and return by next avenue to
Capitol.

3. Return to 7th street; follow it across
Pennsylvania-avenue and the Canal, and you
reach " the Mall," where are the Smithsonian
Institution for the advancement of science,
founded by Mr. J. Smithson, an Englishman,
and installed in a castellated mansion (Museum
and Art Gallery) ; the Agricultural Department
and the Washington Monument, which is to
combine a Pantheon with a column, 600 feet in
height, but is yet far from completion. Return
to Pennsylvania-avenue.

We have now seen pretty nearly all that is
worth seeing in Washington itself, and add a
few hints respecting more remote places.

4. Arlington. Take a red or blue car in
Pennsylvania-avenue, going west. It conveys
you past the White House, and over Rock
Creek to Georgetown, 12,000 inhabitants, a
suburb of Washington, about 3 miles from the
Capitol. Cross the Potomac by the Aqueduct
Bridge, to the Arlington heights, where
Arlington House, once the property of the
Confederate general Lee, but confiscated for
"arrears of taxes," and several national
(Soldiers') cemeteries. Return to Washington
over the Long (railway) bridge. (This is a walk
of about 8 miles).

5. Pay a visit to the Soldurs' Home, on a
plateau, about 3 miles to the north of the city.
Fine view, (yth street cars).

6. Take a red car at the Capitol for the
Navy Yard, (ij miles). Visitors are freely
admitted. Museum of fire arms, trophies, &c.
Near by are the Arsenal and a hospital for
the Insane.

7. Mount Vernon, 15 miles below Wash-
ington, on the Virginia side of the Potomac,
is most conveniently reached by steamers,
A delightful sail. Washington's grave is near
the old mansion, which has become the
property of the nation.

THE SPRING REGION OP
VIRGINIA.

This trip takes us through one of the most attractive
parts of Virginia. Prices, at the various springs, are
lower than in the north. Board and residence, $3
a day, saddle-horses, 1 to 3 a day ; carriages, $5 a
day, and less in country districts.

The trip described, occupies 5 days from Washington
to Lynchburg, but by foregoing a visit to the Warm
Springs it can be made in 3 days. Travellers pressed
for time, proceed direct to Lynchburg (178 miles from
Washington, in 9 hours).

3RD DAY. WASHINGTON TO THE GREEN-
BRIER WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.

247 miles, (Washington, Virginia, Midland and Great
Southern Railway, in 15 hours).

The route leads past many localities the
names of which are still familiar in connection
with the war. We cross the Potomac by the
Long bridge, and then follow its western bank
as far as Alexandra (7 miles), a sleepy town,
advantageously situated. Fairfax (24 miles),
was repeatedly contested between Federals
and Confederates. We cross the famous Bull
Run and reach Manassas (34 miles), where
was fought the first great battle, on the
2ist July, 1861, which General Jackson decided
in favour of the Confederates, and which earned
him the soubriquet of " Stonewall." A second
great battle was fought here in August, 1862.
At Bristoe (38 miles), likewise two severe en-
gagements were fought.

We pass Warrentawn Junction (47 miles),
cross the Rappannock (58 miles), and reach
Braniy (63 miles), the scene of the two great
cavalry fights, in which Stuart defeated the
Federals, in June and October, 1863. Cut-
pepper (69 miles), and the surrounding country
suffered much during the War, and all traces of
devastation have not yet disappeared. At the
crossing of the Rapidan river, hills first appear,
and Orange (87 miles), a pleasant village is
surrounded by them. At Gordonsville (36
miles), the Richmond Line joins. At Keswick
(no miles), we reach the Rivanna river, and
having passed Shadwell (113 miles), we per-
ceive on a height, beyond the river, Monticello,
the home and place of burial of Jefferson.
CIIARLOTTEVILLE (117 miles), is famous as
the seat of Virginia University, on a hill a
mile beyond the town. The Ragged moun-
tains raise their summits towards the south-
46

VI. SOUTHERN TOUR.

west, whilst in front of us appear the contours
of the Blue Ridge. We now cross a fertile
hilly country, gradually rising, until beyond
Greenwood (135 miles), near the Rockfish Gap
of the Blue Ridge, we pass through a tunnel,
and descry that favoured upland region, the
"Valley of Virginia," which extends between
Blue Ridge and the Alleghany Mountains. At
Waynesboro 1 (144 miles), and beyond Fishers-
ville (149 miles), two branches of the Shenan-
doah river are crossed, and we reach STAUNTON
(156 miles), a place of some importance, with
a Lunatic Asylum, and an Institution for the
Deaf, Dumb and Blind.

Weyer's Cave, which is considered by some to be
superior to the Mammoth, already described, is 17
miles by road to the north-east of Staunton, and may
be reached also from Waynesville. Stages run during
the season, but the rail way from Staunton to Harrison-
burg, an old fashioned Virginian town in the Shenan-
doah Valley, is likewise available.

Another branch of the Shenandoah is passed
before reaching Swoops (174 miles). We pass
through the Buffalo Gap, and at North Moun-
tain (Dunlap's Gap, 169 miles) we reach the
highest point between the Chesapeake and
Ohio Rivers (2,073 feet), and the head of the
Little Calf's Pasture River, a tributary of the
North River, which flows to the James, and
follow it as far as the Pond Gap (175 miles).
At BeWs Valley (184 miles), we reach the
banks of the Big Cow pasture river. The
scenery is very fine here, and it increases in
beauty as we proceed upon our journey.
GOSHEN (188 miles), a pleasant village, lies at
the mouth of the Panther Gap. The Mill
Mountains remain thenceforth to our left, for a
considerable distance. At Millboro > (197
miles), we touch the Cow Pasture Valley, but
leave it almost immediately in order to pass up
a valley bounded by the Mill Mountains on the
left, and the Rough Mountains and Griffith's
Knob on the right. Subsequently we cross the
Cow Pasture River (112 miles), and reach
Clifton Forge (115 miles), at the entrance of
the wild defile of the Jackson River, which is
in fact, the Upper James. At COVINGTON
(225 miles), we reach the head of navigation of
that river, and then turn away from it, in order
to cross the Alleghany mountains in front of
us. The track leads up Dunlap's Creek,
past Callaghan's, to the summit station of
Alleghany (241 miles), where it passes through
a tunnel, and then descends to the White Sul-
phur Springs (297 miles). The engineering
works on this part of the line are deserving of
notice. They include the Clay cut, Jerry's
Run embankments and cuttings, and two
tunnels.

4TH DAY. WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.

White Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier County
of Western Virginia, occupy a delightful
position at the Western foot of the Alleghanies,
2,000 feet above the sea-level, and amongst all
the numerous springs of this region, they are
the most popular. A day may be spent here
pleasantly, and the observer cannot fail to be
struck by certain features which distinguish
these Southern watering places from Saratoga
and others in the North.

5TH DAY. WHITE SULPHUR TO WARM
SPRINGS.

Rail to Covington (22 miles) thence by stage (26
miles).

We retrace our steps to Covington, availing
ourselves of the morning train, which starts at
6 a.m.

From Covington to the Warm Springs is a
beautiful drive. We first ascend the Jackson
River to the Falls (10 miles), then ascend a
rivulet in the direction of the Warm Spring
Mountains, to Nanny's Springs (15 miles), and
finally follow the western foot of these moun-
tains to the Healing Springs (19 miles), the
Hot Springs (no F., 21 miles), and the Warm-
Springs (26 miles).

There are hotels at all these places.

6TH DAY. WARM SPRINGS TO LEXINGTON.

53 miles, of which 7 by rail, the rest by stage.

WARM SPRINGS TOMILLBOKO', 15 miles by
road. It is necessary to start early, in order to
catch the train at Millboro'. The road crosses
the Warm Spring Mountain by a Pass, 2, 250
feet high, and then descends Thompson's Creek
and Bull Pasture River.

Near Millboro', there is the "Blowing
Cave," a natural curiosity, which should be
visited.

MILLBORO' TO GOSHEN, 17 miles by rail, in
20 minutes.

GOSHEN TO LEXINGTON, 21 miles by stage.
We first pass through Goshen Pass, and then
down the valley of the North Fork of the
James River, past Rockfield's Bath (9 miles),
to Lexington (21 miles).

LEXINGTON is a small town in a delightful
country. It is famous on account of its
Military Institute and Washington College, the
latter founded in 1776. Stonewall Jackson,
who was a Professor at the Institute lies buried
in the cemetery, and General Lee, who under-
took the management of the College, after the
war, and brought it into a most flourishing
condition, in the College Chapel.
48

VI.-SOTJTHERN TOUR.

7TH DAY. LEXINGTON TO LYNCHBURG.
46 miles by stage and canal boat.

LEXINGTON TO THE NATURAL BRIDGE,
14 miles by stage. The "Natural bridge"
is one of the natural curiosities of Virginia.
The Cedar Creek passes beneath it, and enters
the James river 2 miles below.

NATURAL BRIDGE TO LYNCHBURG 32 miles.
We proceed to the mouth of the Cedar Creek,
and await there the packet-boat which passes
every evening down the Kanawha Canal to
Lynchburg. This canal runs parallel with the
James river, and crosses it once or twice. The
scenery is exceedingly attractive.

Instead of descending the James river and canal in
a boat, we can proceed by stage, either to Liberty or to
Bonsacks, both of them stations on the line from
Lynchburg to Chattanooga (9th and 10th day) . The
distance from the Natural bridge to either place is 30
miles, supposing the road past the Otter Peaks is taken
to Liberty. If the tourist elect either of these routes,
he may reach Liberty or Bonsacks on the evening of
the 8th day, and pass the night in a bed instead of in
the berth of a canal boat.

LYNCHBURG is a city of importance on the
southern bank of the James river. It has for
many years been noted for its tobacco manu-
facturies.

The term "Lynch Law" is said to have been derived
from Colonel Lynch, an officer of Irish origin, and
founder of the town, who served in the revolutionary
army.

LYNCHBURG TO NEW
ORLEANS.

8TH AND QTH DAY LYNCHBURG TO
CHATTANOOGA.

444 miles (railway) in 22 to 25 hours. The scenery
is very attractive, and in order to enjoy it, it is
necessary to spend two days upon the journey. If it
is intended to ascend the Peaks of Otter, a third day
will be required. Bristol or Greenville appear to be
the most suitable places for passing the night.

We soon leave James river behind us, and
reach Libertv (25 miles), a. flourishing small
town in the midst of fine scenery.

The Peaks of Otter (5,307 feet) are seen to the north-
west of the town, at a distance of 9 miles, as the crow
flies (12 miles by road). An ascent can be effected
easily, as carriages take you to the foot of the Peaks,
and, indeed, cross the gap between them, on their
road to the Upper James. The view from the summit
of the South Knob is one of the very finest in all
Virginia (see Map, 3rd day above).

The Blue Ridge is pierced at the Buford
Gap (42 miles), and we now find ourselves in
the fertile " Vale of Virginia," bounded by the
distant range of the Clinch Mountains and the
Blue Ridge. We pass Bonsacks (48 miles,
from which there is a stage road to the
natural bridge), reach the Roanoke at Salem

(60 miles), and follow it upwards nearly as far
as Shawsville (70 miles), 3 miles from which,
to the south", are the popular Allcghany Springs.
At Ghristiansburg (86 miles) we pass from the
the river basin of the Atlantic seaboard to
that of Ohio. Five miles beyond we reach
the New River, which lower down is known as
the Kanawha, and flows to the Ohio. At
Central (97 miles) we cross the river. We
past Newbern (105 miles), Dublin (108 miles),
Max Meadow (124 miles), Wy they ilk (133
miles), and Rural Retreat (143 miles), to
Mount Airy (148 miles), on the height of land
where we leave the basin of the New River,
and enter that of the Holston, a tributary of
the Tennessee. The Iron Mountains, on the
left, intervene between us and the Blue ridge,
the Brass Mountains are on our right. We
pass Marion (160 miles), on the Holston, and
reach Glade Spring (176 miles), from which
there is a short branch-line to Saltville, thus
named from its brine springs. We continue
past Abingdon (184 miles) to Bristol (204
miles), on the frontier between Virginia and
Tennessee, a busy little town of 1, 800 in-
habitants, governed by two mayors and two
sets of town councillors.

We cross the Holston River, th'en the Wa-
tanga, at Carters (224 miles), and approach
the mountains on the left, where Roan High
Knob raises its head to a height of 5,306 feet.
Further away, but not visible from the line, is
the Black Dome (6,707 feet), the culminating
point of the Blue Ridge. Jonesbortf (236
miles) is the next station. At Limestone (150
miles) we touch upon the Nolechucky River.
Bald Spat (5,550 feet), is on our left, whilst
the low range of the Bays Mountains, on the
right, separate us from the Valley of the
Holston. At Greeneville (260 miles) there is
a college, and here we propose to pass the
j night, starting on the following morning at
j 7.12 a.m. The Bays Mountains are crossed
at the Balls Gap (279 miles), from where there
is a branch line to Rogersville on the Holston
River. We pass Morristown (292 miles), and
Newmarket (309 miles), cross the Holston at
Strawberry Plains (318 miles), and then follow
its left bank to KNOXVILLE (334 miles), a
flourishing town of 15,000 inhabitants, de-
lightfully situated, with a University, an Asy-
lum for deaf and dumb, and Glass Manufac-
turies. The town was founded in 1794, and
up to 1817 it was the capital of Tennessee.
The Great Smoky Mountains (Clingman's
Dome, 6,660 feet) are seen on the left, the
Cumberland Mountains bound the horizon on
the right. We follow the right bank of the

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

Holston as far as London (362 miles), where
we cross it. Athens (389 miles) is a pleasant
village of 1800 inhabitants. At Charleston
(404 miles) we cross the Hiwassi, a tributary
of the Tennessee River. Cleveland (417 miles)
lies in the midst of a fertile district. At
length we reach CHATTANOOGA (444 miles),
on the Tennessee, the natural "Gate of the
South " and the scene of several battles. The
district is rich in coal, iron, copper and oil,
and the town has been prospering since the
war, and numbers now 12,000 inhabitants.

The scenery here is most attractive, and the tourist
should by all means ascend Look-out Mountain, to the
south of the town, from which one of the finest views
of the Tennessee Valley may be enjoyed. The
Nickajack (Nigger Jack's) Cave, in Racoon mountain,
should also be visited.

OTH DAY. CHATTANOOGA TO NASHVILLE.

151 miles (rail) in 8 hours (night train in 6J hours).

g^= Memphis can be reached from Chattanooga in
10 to 17 hours (distance 310 miles). The latter
portion of this route is uninteresting. The principal
stations are Huntsville (97 miles) Decatur (121
miles) on the Tennessee, Tuscumbia (164 miles) and
Corinth (216 miles).

The line from Chattanooga to Nashville
passes for the most part through an attractive
hill region. The Cumberland Mountains re-
main to our right, and we gradually draw
away from them. At Bridgeport (28 miles)
the Tennessee River is passed. No towns of
importance are met with on the route. From
Cowan (64 miles) there is a branch line to the
Sewanee Episcopal University. Murfreesbord 1
(119 miles) boasts of a Baptist University, and
near it, on the Stone Creek, seen further on
to the right, was fought an undecisive action
in 1862.

NASHVILLE (151 miles), the capital of Ten-
nessee, occupies a plateau to the south of the
Cumberland river, and has 2 5,000 inhabitants.
The Capitol stands on an eminence, 197 feet
above the river, and, for a wonder, has no
dome. The interior should be examined, and
from the river there is an extensive prospect.
There are also a Lunatic Asylum, a Peniten-
tary, a City Hall, and a University. In
December, 1864, the Federals obtained here a
decisive victory.

The Mammoth Caves may conveniently be visited
from Nashville. "We proceed by rail from Nashville
to Glasgow Junction or Cave City (100 miles in 4f
hours) and thence as explained in Central Tour, page
32. From Glasgow Junction Memphis is reached
without returning to Nashville (292 miles in 15 hours).

IITII DAY. NASHVILLE TO MEMPHIS.

232 miles (rail) in 12J hours. If we start about 2 in
the afternoon we reach Memphis at 3.30 on the
following morning. There is another train which
etartb at 2 in the morning.

The first portion of the route is not without
its picturesque features. At Johnsonville
(78 miles), the Tennessee river is crossed.
There is no single station of any but local
importance. At McKenzie (119 miles), the
line from Louisville joins.

MEMPHIS (232 miles), is the most important
town of Tennessee (40,000 inhabitants). It
stands on the eastern bank ot the Mississippi,
on the 3rd Chickasaw bluff, is well built, but
badly paved. A fine Esplanade extends along
the river, and the City Park, with its tame
squirrels, invites those in search of shade.

I2TH DAY. MEMPHIS TO NEW ORLEANS.

394 miles (by Great Jackson Route) in 21 \ hours, the
train starting at 3.30 p.m., and arriving at New
Orleans at 1 p.m. on the following afternoon. Palace
sleeping cars are run with this train.

A pleasanter and more instructive mode of reaching
New Orleans is to embark on board the "Great
Republic," or some other large steamer navigating the
mighty Mississippi. But the distance is no less than
781 miles, the scenery almost throughout disappointing,
and the time required is fully three days. Still, where
it is not necessary to economise time, this steamboat
journey, and its dolce far niente life are to be pre-
ferred, and we have therefore appended a few notes
concerning this Mississippi route.

The " Great Jackson Line " takes us length-
wise through the State of Mississippi, keeping
away from the marshes and lowlands on the
river, and crossing first the cotton belt, then
the forest belt. Of "scenery," usually so
called, there is little, and the only town of any
importance in Jackson.

At Whitehaven (8 miles), we cross the
boundary between Tennessee and Mississippi.
At Sardis (50 miles), our train stops for meals,
and at the next station Baterville (59 miles),
we cross the Tallahatchee, which is the upper
Yazoo river. Grenada (100 miles), on the
Yallabucha, is a refreshment station, and so is
fa-mile Creek (126 miles). The line then
follows the left bank of the Black River for a
considerable distance, and crosses it 10 miles
this side of Canton (188 miles).

Jackson (211 miles), on the Pearl River,
the capital of Mississippi, has about 5,000
inhabitants, a Capitol, and the usual state
buildings. It was captured by Grant, in
May, 1864, when its factories and other
buildings were destroyed.

At Osyka (306 miles), we cross the boundary
between Mississippi and Louisiana, and
descending the Tangipaha, soon enter upon
the swampy lowlands about the Delta of the
Mississippi river. At Manchac (357 miles),
we pass between lakes Maurepas and Ponch-
artrain, and skirting the shore of the latter,

VI.-SOUTHERN TOTTR.

soon come in sight of the Mississippi river,
and finally reach New Orleans (394 miles).

THE DESCENT OP THE MISSISSIPPI FROM MEMPHIS
TO NEW ORLEANS, 781 miles. Between Memphis and
Columbia the vast and gloomy river passes through
forests and swamps and past verdant islands, and then
enters upon the cotton belt, numerous plantations,
sadly neglected since the emancipation of the slaves,
lining its banks. For about 13 miles below Memphis,
we have Tennessee on our left, Arkansas on our
right, and for the next 280 miles the river forms the
boundary between Arkansas and Mississippi. At
Sterling, Arkansas (71 miles below Memphis), the St.
Francis river enters on the right. Helena, Arkansas
(81 miles), was a flourishing village before the war.
Montgomery Point, Arkansas and Victoria, Mississippi
(157 miles), are two small villages, and 4 miles below
them the White river enters on the left. Napoleon,
Arkansas (177 miles), at the mouth of the Arkansas
river, has a Marine Hospital. Columbia, Arkansas
(243 miles), is at the head of the great cotton region,
and plantations are plentiful for more than 150 miles.
Grand Lake, Arkansas, (291 miles), and Princeton,
Mississippi (296 miles), are small villages. Ten miles
below the latter we pass through the "Cut off" of
Bunches' bend. "We have now Louisiana on our
right, and Mississippi on our left. Providence,
Louisiana (325 miles), is a pleasant village. The
Yazoo river, a sluggish stream, flowing through a
plain of exceeding fertility, enters on the left (374
miles), and immediately afterwards we descry the
Walnut Hills, which rise to a height of 500 feet, and
constitute the finest bit of scenery on the Lower
Mississippi.

VICKSBCRO (386 miles), the most important city
between Memphis and New Orleans, has been built
upon these hills, and, as seen from the river, it presents
a fine appearance. There are grain elevators, foundries,
lumber and saw mills. The city surrendered to the
Federals under Grant, after a siege of 47 days, on the
4th July, 1863. The havoc then wrought has not yet
been fully repaired.

Point Pleasant (425 .miles), is a prominent bluff on
the Louisiana side. Fourteen miles below it the
Black river joins from the left (439 miles). Grand
Gulf, Mississippi (441 miles), is a pretty town on a hill.
St. Joseph's, Louisiane and Bruinsburg, Mississippi
(451 miles), are two villages facing each other. We
pass Rodney, Mississippi (461 miles), and four hours
afterwards reach

NATCHEZ (502 miles), a lovely town, perched partly
upon a line of bluffs, partly built along their foot. To
appreciate its beauty it is necessary to scale the heights.
The streets are lined with water oaks, cedars, and
laurimunda, and there are several buildings of note.
The town was founded by D'Iberville in 1700, and
named after a tribe of Indians, who once held the
surrounding country. The Americans occupied the
place in 1799. Natchez suffered much during the war,
and many charming villas in its vicinity have remained
tenantless up to the present time.

The Red river enters 567 miles below Memphis, and
next to the Missouri and the Arkansas, it is the most
important tributary of the Mississippi. It separates
Arkansas from Louisiana, and thenceforth both banks
of the river belong to the latter. Bayou Sara (607
miles), is a busy little port on the left. Fort Ifmlxnn
(618 miles), on the same side, was fortified by the
Confederates, but surrendered after the capture of
Vicksburg. Baton Rouge (643 miles), the old capital
of Louisiana, is built on the last bluff which we meet

with in our descent of the river. It boasts of several
public buildings, and the style of its houses is French
or Spanish rather than American. Plaquemines (666
miles), was an important cotton port before the war.
Plantations are seen on both sides of the river. We
pass Donaldsonrillc (700 miles), old Jefferson College,
(716 miles), and the church of Bonnet Carre (740
miles). Carrolton (775 miles), is a pleasant village on
the left bank. Another bend of the river, and wo
descry the houses of New Orleans (718 miles).

I3TH DAY. NEW ORLEANS.

Cars, 5 and 7 cents. ; Hacks, 2 an hour, 5 for
half a day. Amusements : Opera House, French
Theatre, Varieties, &c.

New Orleans, the most important city of the
South, is situated on the northern bank of the
Mississippi River, 94 miles above its mouth,
but accessible to the largest ocean steamers.
From the shape of its river frontage, it is
known as the " Crescent City." The ground
upon which the City stands lies 2 to 4 feet
below high water, and strong embankments,
locally known as levees, protect it against
inundations. It was founded in 1718 by Bien-
ville, and named in honour of the Duke of
Orleans, then passed into possession of the
Spaniards, and finally, in 1803, into that of
the United States, It has a population now of
191,000 souls, amongst whom the French ele-
ment is still strongly represented. New
Orleans is the chief cotton mart of the world,
and also largely exports sugar, tobacco, pork,
&c., but it has not recovered yet from the
blows inflicted by the war, and many old
mansions stand deserted.

1. (3 miles). We start upon our walk from Clay's
Monument, near the lower end of Canal-street, which
is 190 feet wide, and separates the French and
American quarters of the city. Close by, in Royal-
street, is the Exchange. Down Royal-street to the
old St. Louis Hotel, now converted into a State House
(inspect interior and ascend to roof). Pass back of
Cathedral; at corner of Dumaine-street an Old
Spanish House. Back to Cathedral, and up Orleans-
street (the palm-tree in its centre was planted about
an hundred years ago) to Circus or Congo-place. Near
it, the City Prison and a market, and on the other side
of the basin, St. Louis Cemetery, with several fine
monuments.

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

Back to Circus-place ; along Rampart-street to
Esplanade, and down latter to Washington-square,
where the old MINT (collection of coins).

Along Levee-street, passing near the old Ursuline
Convent (now Bishop' s-palace), to the most interesting
market of the town (should be visited early in the
forenoon), and to Jackson-square, where are a monu-
ment of General Jackson (a duplicate of that at
Washington), the Cathedral of St. Louis (built 1792-
94, and the Court Houses. Past the old mansion of
Governor Bienville (Casa blanca) to the Custom
House, an immense pile, covering 9,700 square yards.

2. (3 miles). Up Magazine-street to Calliope-street.
Op latter, past St. Paul's Church, the Temple Sinai
and St. John the Baptist to Rampart-street. Basin of
new canal. Down Delord-streetto Tivoli Circus, where
we turn on the left, into St. Charles-street, one of the
great thoroughfares of the city. On Lafayette-square
a statue of Franklin (by Hiram Powers), the City
Hall, the Odd Fellows' Hall, and the First Presby-
terian Church. Close by, in Camp-street, is St.
Patrick's Church, with a tower, 190 feet in height.

"We return to St. Charles-street, pass the Masonic
Sail, and, on reaching St. Charles's Hotel, turnup
Common-street, which leads to the University of
Louisiana and to the church of the Immaculate Con-
ception, a Moorish building, erected 1857-8. Back to
Canal-street.

3. At Clay's Monument take a car for the Cypress
Grove and Greenwood Cemeteries, on Ridge Hill, and
back.

4. On your return to the monument take a car for
the United States Barracks (3 miles). You pass
through Dauphin-street, pass the Town's Almshouse
(burnt by black troops during the war), and Ursuline
Convent. One mile beyond the barracks, the " Battle-
field," with obelisk, in commemoration of General
Jackson's victory, on 8th January, 1845.

5. Railway or drive (along Shell-road) to Lake
Pontchartrain (5 miles), which abounds in fish.

NEW ORLEANS TO SAVANNAH

I4TH DAY. NEW ORLEANS TO MOBILE.

140 miles (rail) in 6 hours, starting at 7.30 a.m.
Also steamers by way of Lake Pontchartrain.

The route passes through picturesque low-
land scenery, through savannahs and brakes,
past grand forests and lakes. The swampy
ground between lakes Ponchartrain and Bor-
gues is crossed on trestles, as is also the mouth
of the Pearl River (40 miles). At Shields-
boro' (65 miles) we reach the coast of
Mississippi Sound, which is separated from
the open gulf by a line of low islands. The
mouth of St. Louis Bay is crossed here on a
trestle bridge. At Biloxi (85 miles) there is
another bridge of this kind, and at West
Pascagula (100 miles), the mouth of the Pas-
cagula river is reached. There we turn land-
ward in the direction of Mobile (140 miles).

MOBILE, 35,000 inhabitants, is the chief
city of Alabama, and like many other cities in
the south, was founded by the French, held
successively by England and Spain, and

finally passed into the possession of the United
States. There is an air of languor about the
place, but its cotton trade is nevertheless of
great importance, and has been growing much
within the last few years. The town stands at
the upper end of Mobile Bay, and at the
mouth of the river bearing the same name.
Admiral Farragut, with his ironclads, forced
an entrance into the harbour, in August, 1864,
but the city gallantly held out twelve months
longer.

Government-street, with an avenue of live oaks, is
the principal street of the town, and in it are tho
academy buildings and several of the leading Churches.
In Royal-street are the theatre, the municipal build-
ings, the Odd Fellows' Hall, the Custom House, and
Barton Academy. The Cathedral is in Claiborne-
street, near the Public-square.

Spring Hill is a pleasant suburb, 6 miles west of
the town, with a Jesuit College. Cars from Francis-
street.

I5TH DAY. MOBILE TO MONTGOMERY.

168 miles in 6J hours. The night train (starting at
11.30 p.m.j may be used without compunction. Also
steamer up the Alabama river.

The route first crosses the timber belt and
then the cotton belt of Alabama, and there is
not a single town or a village of any import-
ance. Soon after leaving Mobile we cross
the delta of the Mobile river and reach Tensas
(5 miles). At Pedido we approach the
Escambia river, and then turn northwards,
passing the junction with the Pensacola line
(49 miles), Pollard (54 miles), Sparta (81
miles), Greenville (124 miles), and Letohatchee
(146 miles).

MONTGOMERY, 10,000 inhabitants, the
capital of Alabama, stands on the Alabama
river, which is navigable for steamers, and falls
into Mobile Bay. It was the seat of the Con-
federate Government in the beginning of 1861,
and although the surrounding country is
exceedingly fertile, its inhabitants have not
yet recovered from the effects of the war, their
sufferings having been aggravated by the
repeated failures in the cotton crop.

Market-street is the principal thoroughfare. At its
lower end is the Court House, at its upper the State
House or Capitol, the dome of which should be
ascended.

I6TH DAY. MONTGOMERY TO COLUMBUS
AND MACON.

195 miles, rail, in 10J hours by morning train.
There is a night train from Columbus, which allows of
a stay of 5J hours at that town.

MONTGOMERY TO COLUMBUS, 95 miles in
5 hours. The route, for a considerable dis-
tance, follows the Tallapoosa river, a tribu-
tary of the Alabama, and then strikes across

VI.-SOTTTHERN TOUR.

country for the junction at Opelika (66 miles).
At Salem (77 miles) we enter the low lands,
and at Girard, opposite Columbus, we cross
the Chattahoochee, which forms the boundary
between Alabama and Georgia.

COLUMBUS, 10,000 inhabitants, is a flourish-
ing town in the centre of the cotton belt. The
river, above the town, flows through a pic-
turesque ravine, and its rapids supply water
power to numerous cotton mills.

COLUMBUS TO MACON, 100 miles in 5^
hours. This route possesses no particular
attractions. The Pine Hills are seen afar off
in the north. The principal stations are
Upatoi (20 miles), Butler (50 miles), Fort
Valley (71 miles), an attractive village with a
Female Academy, and Echeconne.

MACON, 10,000 inhabitants, is an attractive
town, with wide streets planted with trees,
picturesquely perched upon a hill on the
Ocmulgee river. There are iron foundries,
flour mills, machine shops and cotton mills, a
female academy, a medical academy, and an
asylum for the blind.

Rose Hill Cemetery, close to the town, and Lamar's
Mound, a suburb, should be visited.

I7TH DAY. MACON TO SAVANNAH.
190 miles in 10 and 11 f hours.
The route passes through one of the most
fertile regions of Georgia, first through a roll-
ing country, suited to the cultivation of cotton ;
then through the low lands, but of scenery there
is none, nor is there a single town of note.
The Oconee River, which rises in the Gold
Fields of Georgia, is crossed beyond Tootus-
boro' (36 miles). At Davisboro' (68 miles), we
reach a tributary of the Ogeechee, which we
follow as far as Millen (in miles), on the
Ogeechee itself. We leave this river at Eden
(170 miles), and soon afterwards reach Savan-
nah (190 miles).

l8TH DAY. SAVANNAH.

Savannah, the chief city of Georgia, occupies
a plateau to the south of the Savannah river,
15 miles above its mouth into the Atlantic. It
was founded in 1733 by General Ogelthorpe,
and its numerous plazas, planted with orange
trees, bananas, magnolias, palmettos and other
sub-tropical plants, as well as the many trees
and gardens in its principal thoroughfares, have
gained for it the name of " Forest City." The
number of inhabitants is 30,000, of whom
10.000 are negroes. Trade and commerce
flourish.

The old town is bounded by Bay-street, the principal
business thoroughfare, on the top of the bluff, and
by East, West, and South Broad-streets. From the
tower of the City Exchange the best view of the city
is obtained. The Custom House, in Bay-street, and
the Masonic Hall, in Broughton-street, branching out
of it, are amongst the more prominent buildings ; and
in the street last named is also the old mansion of the
English governor. On Johnston-square there is an.
obelisk in honour of General Greene and Pulaski, and
on Chippewa-square a column commemorative of the
death of the latter, who fell in defence of the town,
in 1779.

Bonaventure Cemetery, 4 miles west of the city
(cars) is a beautiful Park. Forsyth Park, to the south
of the city limits, should likewise be visited.

FLORIDA.

ggj= October to June is a favourable period of the
year for visiting Florida. December is preferred by
many, but March is perhaps as good a month as any,
for then the flowers are in their perfection. Sports-
men should go provided with their weapons.

Florida has been called the "Italy of the United
States," and, although there are no mountains within
its borders, its climate is so genial, its sub-tropical
vegetation and dense virgin forests are so attractive,
and its animal world so novel, that it fairly deserves
the patronage of invalids and tourists, which is more
and more being extended to it from year to year. Its
history, too, is not without a spice of romance.
Discovered by Cabot, the Venetian, it was the
Spaniards who first explored the interior of this
country. Ponce de Leon came hither in search of the
" Fountain of Youth," and to him succeeded de Soto
and other Spaniards, and in their train the massacres
and the misery, which have at all times attended the
march of that bigotted nation. In 1564 the French
built fort Caroline, at the mouth of St. John, but
Menendez de Avila, the Spanish commander, took it,
and massacred its Huguenot garrison, and the same
fate was extended to several hundred other Frenchmen,
who were shipwrecked on the coast, not " because they
were French, but for their heresy." This cruel deed
was punished two years later by Dominique de
Gourgues. In the 18th century, Florida for a time
passed into the possession of England, but it again
reverted to Spain, who held it until its cession to the
United States in 1819.

IQTH DAY. SAVANNAH TO JACKSONVILLE.

262 miles by railway, in 16 hours, or by steamer 160
miles) in about 16 hours. The latter to be preferred
during fine weather.

We avail ourselves of the night-train, and
thus reach Jacksonville at 7.45 a.m., in time
for the steamer which ascends the St. John's
River. The scenery along the route is by nj
means very attractive, and not a single place,
deserving the name of "town" is met with.
At Way (16 miles), we cross the Ogeechee
river, and then pass through a district abound-
ing in game. At Johnson (46 miles), the
Altamaha is crossed. It enters the sea at
Darien, an important lumber port. Then
follow Jesttp (57 miles), Tcbeattville (19 mile.-.),

VI. SOUTHERN TOUR.

at the head of the Okee-fino-kee swamps, and
Lawton (131 miles). Jasper (163 miles), is the
first station in Florida. Soon afterwards, we
cross the Suwanee River (171 miles), and reach
Live Oak (179 miles), an important junction.
Lake City (202 miles), in the vicinity of some
lakes, abounding in fish and game, is the most
important town on the route, though its popu-
lation does not exceed 2,000 souls. At Bald-
win (243 miles), we cross the line from Cedar
Keys to Fernandina, and at length we reach
Jacksonville (262 miles).

JACKSONVILLE is a busy lumber port on the
left bank of the St. John's, 25 miles above its
mouth, and though almost destroyed during the
War, it flourishes now, and has attracted many
wealthy residents from the north. Population
12,000.

20TH DAY. ST. JOHN'S. JACKSONVILLE TO
PILATKA.

St. John's River rises in the Cypress Swamps
beyond Lake Washington, about 190 miles to
the South of Jacksonville, in an air-line, and is
famous for its delicious foliage, its forests of
cypresses, pines, palms and paimettoes, ash-
trees, magnolias and live oaks, and its j
plantations of oranges and bananas. Game
abounds, not only birds and water- fowl, but
also deer, bears, monster turtles and alligators.

The steamers generally start from Jacksonville at 9
for 11 in the morning, and reach Pilatka (75 miles),
where they lie overnight, in the afternoon. From
Pilrttka to Enterprise (130 miles), the journey occupies
12 hours. Enterprise is reached 3G hours after leaving
Jacksonville.

At Jacksonville, the river is nearly 2 miles

broad, and this width is occasionally exceeded
higher up. At Mandarin (15 miles), is the
house of Mrs, Harriet Beecher-Stowe. Above
Hibernia (23 miles), the Black River enters
from the West. It is navigable as far as
Middleburg, and its banks swarm with alliga-
tors. At Magnolia (27 miles), there is a
sulphur spring, and a prosperous establishment
for invalids. Green Cove (sulphur) springs (30
miles), likewise boasts of a large hotel. Pico-
lata (45 miles), is an old Spanish settlement.
At Tocoi (57 miles), we reach the Western
Terminus of the St. Augustine Tramway (see
below, 25th Day). Then follow Federal Point
(63 miles), the Orange Mills (66 miles),
Dancey's Place (67 miles), and PILATKA (75
miles), the largest town on the river, with
1,500 inhabitants. Oranges and bananas are
here in profusion, and Col. Hart's plantation,
on the other side of the river, should be
visited.

2IST DAY. ST. JOHN'S. PILATKA TO
ENTERPRISE.

150 miles in 12 hours [steamer].
At Wilaka (20 miles), there are sulphur
springs.

The mouth of the OCLAWAHA is opposite. This is a
most picturesque river, which is ascended by tiny
steamers for a distance of 180 miles. Sugar and cotton
plantations are passed in ascending it. Tourists not
pressed for time, should ascend it as far as the famous
"Silver Springs." Ponce de Leon's "Fountains of
Youth," which are about 60 miles above its mouth.
On Thursday evenings, a tiny steamer leaves Pilatka,
enters the Oclawaha about 2 in the morning, and
reaches the Sprinp-s on Friday evening. This visit
would thus occupy 2 or 3 days.

Above Wilaka, the river widens into Little
Lake George, 7 miles long, which is succeeded
by Big Lake George, 1 8 miles long and 12 miles
wide. The latter is studded with islands, and
game abounds. The St. John's is very narrow
now. We cross Dexter's Lake, and finally
reach Mellonville (125 miles) . Five miles across
Lake Monroe, and we are at Enterprise (130
miles).

22ND DAY. ST. JOHN'S. ENTERPRISE.

Enterprise is a favourite place of resort for
sportsmen, but the ordinary tourist likewise
will find much here to interest him. Guides
and horses, and every facility for hunting,
shooting and fishing, can be procured here.
Lake Harney is 12 miles off, and boats can
penetrate within 6 miles of the Indian River, a
backwater cf the Atlantic, holding out great
inducements to sportsmen.

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

23RD, 24TH, 25TH DAYS. ST. JOHN'S.
DOWN TO JACKSONVILLE. ST. AUGUSTINE.

The descent of the St. John's can be made in
two days, but no traveller should leave Florida,
without having paid a visit to ST. AUGUS-
TINE, and this requires a third day.

This quaint old town is reached by a tram-
car starting from Tocoi, on the St. John, from
which it is 15 miles distant. The road leads
through a wild forest of pines and other trees,
and not a house is seen until we reach the town.
St. Augustine was founded in 1565 by the
Spaniards, and its architecture and narrow
streets, remind us of Spain. Modern houses,
however, are springing up rapidly. In 1586,
Sir Francis Drake pillaged the town, and
during the wars between England and Spain,
it suffered much. The chief objects of attraction
are the Fort ot St. MarKs or Marion, com-
pleted in 1756. Like the sea-wall and many
houses of the town, it is built of shell-limestone
(coquina), found on Anastasia Island, at the
entrance of the fine harbour. On the Plaza de
la Constitucion, are the old Spanish Cathedral,
the old Government House, a modern Epis-
copalian Church, and other attractive buildings,
All kinds of sub-tropical plants grow in the
gardens of the town, including figs, dates,
bananas, limes, guavas, citrons, pomegranates,
&c., &c.

26TH DAY. JACKSONVILLE TO SAVANNAH.

We return by rail or steamer to Savannah,
or still better, proceed at once by steamer to
Charleston (225 miles, in about 21 hours).

SAVANNAH TO THE NORTH.

27TH DAY. SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON.

104 miles, in 7| hours.

The line passes through fine lowland scenery,
at one time through marsh and swamp, where
the rails are laid on piles, at others through
cane brakes, and then again through forests of
pine, cypress, laurel and oak, with vines cling-
ing to the trees, and gay flowers. The Savannah
River is crossed 15 miles from the city, and the
Edista at Jacksonboro' (74 miles). There are
no places of note along this route, but its
scenery is considered to be most characteristic
of the lowlands of the south, and it ought
therefore to be passed over during the day.

CHARLESTON, 50,000 inhabitants, is the

chief city of South Carolina, and spite of the

disgraceful government forced upon the people

by the Federals, it is a prosperous place, for it

depends not merely upon commerce, but also
engages to some extent in manufactures. The
phosphate diggings on the Ashley River near
the town, are one of its great sources of wealth.
A conflagration, and the siege of the town, have
resulted in the destruction of many buildings,
which have not yet been restored, and many a
mansion, once occupied by wealthy Charles-
ton ians, now harbour swarms of negroes. The
city is built upon a low peninsula, at the con-
fluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, and
looks out upon Charleston Harbour, defended
by Fort Sumter, 3 miles below the town, and
by other forts. Many of the streets are narrow,
and as most of the gardens are enclosed by
walls, their appearance is gloomy.

The Battery is a pleasant promenade on the harbour.
"We proceed hence to the Old Custom House and along
East Bay-street (on Cooper River) to the new Custom
House, a fine marble building, at its top. On the
road we pass the old Post Office (built 1761), and the
Chamber of Commerce, opposite, at the corner of
Broad Street. The Charleston Markets are near the
new Custom House, Crossing them we reach Meeting-
street. "Where this street crosses Broad-street our
attention is attracted by St. Michael's Church (built
1752, the tower should be ascended), by the City Hall,
the Court House, and the Guard House (Police head-
quarters.) In Meeting-street are also the Federal
Courts (in the mansion of the defunct Charleston
Club), and the "Board of Trade buildings.

Amongst other buildings should be observed tho
ruins of the Catholic Cathedral, in Broad-street: S.
Philip's Church, modelled on S. Martin' s-in-the-Fields,
in Church-street, with an interesting grave yard
(Colhoun's tomb); the Medical College and Roger
Hospital in Queen-street ; Charleston ' College in
George-street and the Public Schools, close by; the
old Military Academy now used as barracks, on
Citadel-square, and the Jail and "Workhouse in Maga-
zine Street ; and the Orphan Home, founded 1790, in a
more remote part of the town.

As an excursion we recommend a sail down the bay.
The steamers, which start every hour, call at Mount
Pleasant and at Moultricville on Sullivan Island.
Fort Sumter is close by. It surrendered to the Con-
federates on the 12th April, 1861, but was recaptured
after a heavy bombardment, in August, 1863.

VI.-SOUTHERN TOUR.

28TH DAY. CHARLESTON TO WILMINGTON.

210 miles in llf hours by night train, thus allowing
tourists to remain at Charleston during the whole of
this day up to 7.30 p.m.

If it ie not desired to stay at Wilmington the
journey may be continued without any interruption,
and the traveller then reaches Richmond 26 hours,
Portsmouth 23 hours, after his departure from
Charleston.

At Gourdins (50 miles), we cross the Santee
River. Florence (102 miles), does considerable
business in cotton. At Peedee (115 miles),
the Great Peedee River is crossed, and a mile
this side of Fair Bluff (i^ miles), on the Little
Peedee River, we pass from South into North
Carolina. The route thence leads through
extensive swamps, and past Waceamaw Lake
to

WILMINGTON (210 miles), the principal port
of North Carolina, on Cape Fear River, 20
miles above its mouth into the sea. Fort
Fisher, at the mouth of the river, surrendered
to the Federals on i$th January, 1865, after a
severe fight. There is little in the town to
interest the traveller.

2QTH DAY. WILMINGTON TO PORTSMOUTH
(NORFOLK).

242 miles in 12| hours (rail).

If pressed for time proceed to Richmond (248 miles
in 14 hours.) The routes are identical as far as "Wei-
don. Petersburg (225 miles), on the Appomattox,
with cotton mills and tobacco manufacturers, is the
principal station beyond.

The country as far as Weldon, is flat and
uninteresting. We trav erse the pine belt which
extends from Virginia to Florida. Goldsbortf
(84 miles), near the Neuse, is the only place of
any note. Weldon (162 miles), is on the
Roanoke River, which forms falls above the
town.

Twenty miles beyond Weldon, we enter
Virginia. The nature of the country hardly
changes, until we reach Suffolk (225 miles), a
flourishing little town, where we find ourselves
on the northern fringe of the Dismal Swamp,
with its Stygian waters, lakes and dead trees.
At Portsmouth (242 miles), we reach the
Elizabeth River, and are ferried over to Nor-
folk.

NORFOLK, 20,000 inhabitants, is a flourishing
seaport town, almost English in aspect, on the
right bank of the broad and deep Elizabeth
River, and about 10 miles below Hampton
roads, at the mouth of the James River, which
witnessed the first fight between Ironclads
(Merrimac and Monitor, 8th March, 1862).
The prospect from Old Fort Norfolk is
delightful.

63 >

At Portsmoiith, opposite, are a United States
Navy Yard, and a Naval Hospital.

Oysters and wild fowl are plentiful at Norfolk, and
its vicinity holds out numerous inducements to sports"
men.

30TH DAY. NORFOLK TO RICHMOND.

119 miles up the St. James River (steamer) or 104
miles by rail in 5 hours.

Steamer preferable. The railway passes Suffolk
(23 miles), and St. Petersburg (81 miles, both referred
to above).

The sail up James River carries us past some
of the most interesting lowland scenery. On
reaching Hampton Roads we descry to the
right, at the opening into Cheasapeake Bay,
Fort Monroe. The James is 4^ miles broad
here, and the navigable channel is pointed out
by lightships, lighthouses and buoys. Above
James Town Island (40 miles), its width is
reduced to I mile, and at the City Point (77
miles), where the Appomatox River enters it
from the left, it grows narrow, and winds
through a lovely lowland country. Richmond
(119 miles), as seen from the River, with its
Capitol on Shockoe Hill, has an imposing
appearance.

3 1ST DAY. RICHMOND.

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, since
1779, is situated on the northern bank of James
River, and three bridges connect it with Man-
chester, a flourishing village, opposite. The
city is built, like Rome, upon seven hills, the
most prominent amongst which is crowned by
the State Capitol, and the neighbouring coun-
try is exceedingly fertile. There are immense
flour mills and tobacco warehouses, iron-
works, and various manufactories. The popu-
lation is 50,000, of whom very nearly one half
are negroes. Richmond was the seat of the
confederate government, and the detached forts
erected in its defence may still be traced.
When the Confederates were obliged to
withdraw, they set fire to the public stores
and tobacco houses, and to the bridges. A
large portion of the city was burnt, but it has
been rebuilt now, and a few blackened
ruins alone remind us of this sorry period.

The State Capitol, on Shockoe Hill, first attracts
our attention. It was built in imitation of the Maison
Carree at Nimes. In its entrance hall are Houdon'S
fine statue of Washington, and a curious old English
stove, which formerly wanned the "House of 13 ur-
gesses." In the open square surrounding it is an eques-
trian statue of Washington, by Crawford, perhaps the-
finest work of art ever produced by an American, and
a statue of Henry Clay. The City Hall is on tho
north side of the square, and near it is the mansion in
which Jeff. Davis took up his residence as President

VII. GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

of the Confederate States. The Governor's House is
on the eastern side of the square, and St. Paul's Church
is close to it. In Broad-street are the Monumental
Church, erected on the site of the old theatre which
burnt down in 1811, when 69 persons lost their lives;
the Medical College (in the Egyptian style) is to the
ivur of this church. The new Theatre and the " Old
African Church'" (which ought to be visited on a
Sunday), are in the same street.

Main-street runs parallel with the river, from which
it is separated by warehouses and manufacturies. It
is the chief business street of the city. There is the
neat Custom House, between 10th and llth street;
two huge tobacco warehouses, which gained an un-
enviable notoriety during the war, and known as
Libby Prison and Castle Thunder, are close by, on the
river.

The other buildings of note are St. John's Church,
an anti-revolutionary edifice, in the eastern part of the
town, and the Penitentiary, in the western suburb.
Both are seen from the Capitol.

Hollywood Cemetery, beyond the western city limits,
on ground sloping down towards the James, should be
visited. It contains Monroe's tomb. The falls of the
James, the Tredcgar Iron Works, and the ruins of the
United States Armoury are seen from it.

32ND DAY. RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON.

82 miles by rail to Quantico (3 hours), thence by
steamer, 35'miles (2 hours), to "Washington.

The railway journey offers but little that is
| noteworthy. We cross the Chickahominy, an
i insignificant river (8 miles), pass Ashland ( 1 7
miles), a favourite summer residence of the
Richmonders, cross the two branches of the
Anna River, and reach Chester (29 miles).
Milford (40 miles), is on the Mattapony River.
FREDERICKSBURG (61 miles), on the
Rappahannock, has played an important part
during the War. Lee here defeated Burnside,
I3th December, 1862, and at Chancellorsville,
10 miles to the west, Stonewall Jackson beat
Hooker on the 2nd May, 1863, but was mor-
tally wounded inadvertently by his own troops,
and died 8 days afterwards. We now approach
the Potomac. Acquia Creek remains to our
right. At Quantico (82 miles), we embark on
board a steamer, which takes us up the Potomac
to Washington. Mount Vernon is seen on a hill
to the left.

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

In the course of this tour we travel 5,379 miles by
rail, 58 miles by steamers, and 254 by stage, or on
horseback. "We carry the tourist across the continent
to San Francisco, conduct him to the Great Geysers,
and the wonderful Yosemite Valley ; pay a visit to
Lake Tahoe and the Salt Lake City; explore the
Canons of the llocky Mountains in Colorado, ascend
Pike's Peak, and bring him back through a prairie,
abounding in buffaloes and other game. The whole of
this Tour has been arranged for 27 days, from our
departure from Chicago to our return to St. Louis.

ggp= if possible, visit the Yosemite in May. Later
in the season, its waterfalls dry up, and with them
much of its beauty is gone.

BOUND WEST.

1ST DAY. CHICAGO TO OMAHA.

488 miles (Chicago and North Western Railway), in
20 hours. Start by night train.

The route, for the most part, leads through
a prairie country, which is rapidly being settled
and planted with trees. At Harlem (g miles),
we cross the Des Plaines, at Geneva (36 miles),
the Fox River. At Dixon (98 miles), we reach
the Rock River, which we follow as far as
Sterling (no miles), and then cross over to the
Mississippi (136 miles), which forms the
boundary line between Illinois and Iowa, and
which we cross on a fine bridge, 2 miles below
the rising town of Fulton. Clinton (138 miles),
is the first town in Iowa. We travel through

6.S

a fine prairie country, cross the Wapsipinecon
at Wheatland (173 miles), and the Cedar River
at Cedar Rapids (219 miles). At Belle Plaine
(254 miles), we reach the Iowa River, and
trace up its valley as far as Marshalltown
(289 miles). On approaching the Des Moines
River, the country improves, there are woods,
and hills, and coal mines. We cross that river
at BoonevUle (340 miles), only founded in 1865,
and then again proceed through a fine prairie,
until we reach Tip Top (405 miles), the culmi-
nating point of the line, 1,448 feet above the
ocean, and on the divide between Missouri and
Mississippi. At Denison (424 miles), we reach
the Boyer River, whose valley is bounded by
pleasant hills. We travel down it, past Dunlap
(441 miles), and Missouri Valley Junction (468
miles), to within a few miles of its junction
j with the Missouri, and then down the latter to
i Council Bhtffs (488 miles), at the foot of the
1 Bluffs, joined to Omaha in Nebraska, by a fine
I bridge.

OMAHA is a rising town on the Missouri,
with shops of the Union Pacific Railway, iron
works, smelting works, and other manufac-
turing establishments. Its population rose from
1,883 in i860, to 18,000 in 1870. The view
j from the hills behind the town is fine, but there
i is nothing else to detain the traveller.

VII. GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

2ND & 3RD DAYS. OMAHA TO SA T T LAKE
CITY.

1,069 miles in 50 hours.

Omaha to Ogden, 1,032 miles (Union Pacific Rail-
way), in 48 hours, including short stoppages at Tre-
mont, Grand Island, Sidney, Cheyenne, Laramie,
Green Eiver and Evanston for meals. Two nights are
passed on the road.

For a few miles, we follow the direction of
the Missouri River, the wooded bluffs of which
are on our left. At Gilmore (10 miles), we
turn abruptly towards the west, and enter
upon a rich prairie region, which is rapidly
being filled by settlers. At Elkhorn (29
miles), we cross the river of the same name,
and a few miles beyond, we pass through the
bluffs, and enter upon the magnificent valley of
the Platte, a fertile region, hardly touched yet
by the hand of man. The river is on our left,
and we catch frequent glimpses of it. We
trace it upwards for more than 350 miles,
Tremont (47 miles), 1,214 feet above the sea.
(restaurant), is a rapidly rising town, doing
already a considerable amount of business in
grain. At North Bend (62 miles, 1,217 feet),
we for the first time approach close to the
Platte River. Schuyler (76 miles), has been
colonized by Nova Scotians, who are prosper-
ing. The old emigrant road, which was much
frequented before the railway was built, but is
now grass covered, runs occasionally along the
railway. Columbus (92 miles, 1,470 feet), near
the mouth of the Wolf or Loup Creek, promises
to become a place of importance. Silver
Creek (109 miles), and Lone Tree (132 miles),
are rising villages. GRAND ISLAND (154
miles, 1,798 feet, restaurant), near the lower
end of a wooded island in the Platte, is rapidly
becoming the centre of a prosperous farming
district. Kearney (191 miles), lies near the
upper end of the Island referred to, opposite to
a fort of the same name, on the other side of
the river. Plum Cteek (230 miles), has become
known in connection with an Indian raid, in
1868, when the Sioux tore up the track, plun-
dered a train, and killed the engineer and
fireman. McPheison (278 miles), is opposite
a fort of the same name, on the other side of
the river. Ten miles above it, the line crosses
the North Fork of the Platte, and soon after-
wards we reach NORTH PLATTE (291 miles,
2,827 feet), one of the most important places
along the line, with machine shops, hotels, and
stores, from which large numbers of cattle are
shipped. At OFallons (308 miles, 3,014
feet), we leave the fine farm lands of Nebraska
behind us, and enter upon a vast grazing
country, which extends to the foot oi the

Rocky Mountains. We follow the left bank
of the South Platte, past Alkali (322 miles),
Ogalalla (342 miles), and Big Spring (361
miles), to Barton (369 miles, 3,460 feet), where
we leave it, to ascend its tributary, the Lodge
Pole Creek. Fort Sedgwick, near the junction
of the two rivers, is seen on the South.
JULESBURG (377 miles, 3,538 feet), was a
bustling and riotous place, whilst the railway
works were in progress, but has sunk into
insignificance. Sidney (414 miles, 4,111 feet,
restaurant), is an important railway and
military station, on the Lodge Pole Creek.
Bushnell (463 miles), is the last station in
Nebraska, which we quit now for Wyoming.
The scenery improves. The rugged hills at
Pine Bluffs (473 miles, 5,064 feet), are covered
with pines. Beyond Hillsdale (496 miles), we
obtain the first glimpse of the snow clad Rocky"
Mountains, their slopes being covered with
dark pines. Long's Peak is distinctly visible
in the south-west, at a distance of 100 miles.
Archer (508 miles), is between Lodge Pole
Creek and Crow Creek. CHEYENNE (516
miles, 6,075 feet, restaurant), is a small town
of 2,000 inhabitants, only founded in 1867.
The branch from Denver (106 miles), joins here.

The ascent of the Rocky Mountains begins
at Cheyenne. Many miles of the line are
covered with sheds, to protect it against snow
drifts ; the scenery is most attractive. We
pass Granite Canon (536 miles, 7,329 feet),
and- Buford (542 miles, 7,810 feet), in Evan
Pass, and reach Sherman (549 miles, 8,271
feet), at its summit, the most elevated railway
station, not only along this line, but in the
world. The Snowy Range, with Long's and
Pike's Peaks, is on our left, the Laramie
Range, on our right. We descend to the
Laramie Plain, about 7> 2O ^ ee t above the
level of the sea, and bounded on all sides by a
fine panorama of hills. Laramie (573 miles,
7, 143 feet), near the southern extremity of this
plain, is a favourable spot from which to
explore the neighbouring mountain regions.
The plain, as far as the eye can reach, is
covered with sage bush. We pass Wyoming
(587 miles), Cooper's Lake (602 miles), Look-
out (606 miles), and Como (638 miles), and
reach the crossing over the Medicine Bow River
(645 miles, 6,561 feet). Carbon (656 miles),
promises to become important, on account of
its coal mines. The Medicine Bow Mountains
approach on the left. They are covered with
pine forests, and abound in game. At Fort
Steele (690 miles, 6,845 f ee t)> we again reach
the North Platte River, here an insignificant
stream, Close by, are the remains of Benton
68

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

City, which was abandoned on the completion
of the railway. We enter upon a rugged,
sterile di>trict, and at Creston (737 miles,
7, 030 feet), we reach the water-parting between
the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. At Bitter
Creek (785 miles, 6, 68 1 feet), we reach the
river of the same name, which we follow to its
confluence with Green River (845 miles, 6,130
feet, restaurant). There are some curious rocks
along this part of the line. The country im-
proves. The Uintah Mountains (14,000 feet,)
rise on the south, whilst in the north, there
extends a more level country, rich in coaL
We follow Black and Muddy Forks upwards,
for a considerable distance, past Boyan (858
miles), and the curious Church Buttes (887
miles), and reach Aspen (944 miles, 7,825 feet),
on the water-parting between Green River and
Bear Creek. The latter is reached at Evanston
(957 miles, 6,860 feet), the first place in the
territory of Utah. Coal is worked near it.
We now approach the finest scenery along the
road. Castle Rock (975 miles, 6,282 feet), is
at the head of Echo Canon, Echo Station
(991 miles, 5,1507 feet), at its foot, and this is
succeeded by the equally magnificent Weber
Canon. We pass through the Devifs Gate
(1,019 miles), and soon afterwards descry the
Great Salt Lake, and reach OGDEN (1,033
miles, 4,303 feet), a Mormon settlement of
some importance, and the last station of the
Union Pacific Railroad.

OGDEN TO SALT LAKE CITY, 36 miles in
2 hours. The line crosses Weber River,
follows the eastern shore of the Great Salt
Lake (4, 200 feet above the sea), past Farming-
ton and Centreville, and then the Jordan
River.

4TH DAY. SALT LAKE CITY.

Salt Lake City, the head-quarters of the
Mormons, is situated in the extensive Jordan
Valley, at the western foot of the Wahsatch
Mountains, which, not far from the town,
attain an elevation of 11,000 feet. It is
regularly laid out, with broad dusty streets,
through which run irrigation canals. Shade
trees and orchards abound. The number of
inhabitants is 18,000, and not only are the
Mormons being encroached upon by " Gentiles"
from the neighbouring mining districts, but
they are quarrelling amongst themselves.

The Temple Block contains the foundation of
the Temple, towards which millions were col-
lected, but which will never probably be
finished ; the new tabernacle, with its dish-
cover roof, the old tabernacle, and the Endow-
ment House, to which no Gentile is admitted.

Brighton! s Block adjoins this on the east, and
contains the Tithing House, Brigham's harems,
known as "The Beehive" and the "Lion"
houses, &c. President Young's house is in
the same part of the city. Each of the twenty
Wards of the city has its meeting-house and
Bishop. Most of the houses are built of adobe.
The letters Z. C. M. I. over shop-doors, stand
for Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution.

From Ensign Park a fine view of the city.

A most enjoyable excursion may be made to Little
Cotton Wood Canon, to the south-east of the city.
Rail to Sandy, a Station on the Utah Southern Rail-
way (16 miles), thence by narrow gauge line to Alta, 9
miles further. Close by are the Emma, Flag-staff and
other mines. The sceneiy is magnificent.

5TH AND 6TH DAYS. SALT LAKE CITY TO
SAN FRANCISCO.

9 19 miles in 50 hours. There are eating houses at
Ogden, Toano, Carlin, Battle Mountain, Humboldt,
Summit, Colfax, Sacramento, and Lathrop.

SALT LAKE CITY TO OGDEN 36 miles (see
above).

Ogden to Truckee, 625 miles (Central Pacific
Railway), in 32^ hours. Corinne (22 miles,
4,294 feet), at the mouth of the Bear River, is
a thriving place, and keeps up communications
by steamer with the silver mines to the south-
west of the Salt Lake. Promontory Point (51
miles, 4,943 feet), is of some historical interest,
for it was here the tracks of the Union and
Central Pacific Railway were joined, on the
loth May, 1869. The rosewood sleeper and
the golden spikes with which the rail was
fastened down, have been removed long ago.
At Monument Point (72 miles, 4,290 feet), we
bid farewell to the salt lake, and enter upon
the great salt lake desert, which is partly
covered with weeds, or has its soil impregnated
with salt . The stations passed (such as Kelton,
Matlin, Terrace, Lucin), are of no importance.
Tecoma (157 miles, 4,600 feet), is the first
station in Nevada, so famous for its silver
mines. Montello and Loray are left behind,
and we reach TOANA (183 miles, 5,964 feet),
near some hills, were the aspect of the country
is less forbidding. Thousand Spring Valley,
is on our right. At Pequop (193 miles, 6, 180
feet), we have reached the basin of the Hum-
boldt River, and passing Otego, Independence,
Moors, and Cedar, we arrive at WELLS
(220 miles, 5,650 feet), a small place in the
vicinity of silver, copper, lead and iron mines,
where smelting works have been established.
Humboldt Wells, a favourite spot with the
overland emigrants of former days, are close by.

gg~ Going West, we reach Wells at 6 in the morn-
ing, going East at 8.15 in the evening:

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

We now approach the fertile valley of the
Humboldt River, which is fringed by willows
and shrubs, and is capable of cultivation. At
Osino (264 miles, 5, 100 feet), the valley con-
tracts, and we pass through a rough tract to
ELKO (275 miles, 5,030 feet), a busy town of
5,000 inhabitants, on the Humboldt, the supply
station for the White Pine mining district.
Carlin (298 miles, 4,930 feet), likewise on the
Humboldt, is a busy little town. The scenery
along the Humboldt valley, is by no means
attractive. The river traverses a wide, barren
plain, bounded in the distance by hills. At
Palisade (306 miles, 4,870 feet), there are a
few remarkable rocky mountains. At Cluro
(317 miles), we cross to the south bank of the
Humboldt. Hot sulphur springs are near.
Eeowawe (325 miles), Shoshone (335 miles),
Argenta (347 miles), and Battle Motmtain
(359 miles, 4,534 feet), follow, the latter so
called after a mountain near which a battle was
fought between two tribes of Indians. Gol-
qonda (402 miles), is the supply station for the
Gold River mining district. Then follows
WINNEMUCA (419 miles, 4,355 feet), an
important station, with railway shops and much
trade.

We still follow the Humboldt River, which
enters here the sandy desert of Nevada.
None of the stations are of importance. We
reach Humboldt (459 miles, 4,262 feet). The
Humboldt and Trinity mountains bound the
view. At Browns (508 miles, 3,955 feet),
and at White Plains (520 miles, 3,921 feet),
we see Ilumboldt Lake, into which the river
discharges itself, on our left. White Plains is
the lowest station between the Rocky Moun-
tains and the Sierra Nevada.

83T 1 Going west we reach White Plains at 8.35
p.m., going east at 5.50 a.m.

At WADSWORTH (555 miles, 4,104 feet),
where there are railway shops and a few stores,
we have reached the western termination of
the Nevada desert, and begin the ascent of the
Sierra. The country improves, and at RENO
(590 miles, 4,525 feet), an important town on
the Truckee River, within five miles from the
foot of the Sierra, and from which a branch
railway runs to the mining towns of Washoe,
Carson City and Virginia, we first behold pine
forests a refreshing sight after hundreds of
miles of travel through a parched country.
Verdi (60 1 miles, 4,915 feet), is the first station
in California, and at TRUCKEE (625 miles,
5,866 feet), a town of 6,000 inhabitants, with
sAw-mills, we find ourselves in the midst of the
most magnificent mountain scenery,

Klf Travellers going west reach Truckee at 3 a.m.,
those going east at 12.35 a.m. The most interesting
part of the route is thus passed over at a very early
hour in the morning, or late in the evening. "We pro-
pose, however, to pay a visit to Donner and Tahoa
Lakes, which are near Truckee, on our return journey.

TRUCKEE TO SACRAMENTO, 119 miles in
7 hours, 35 minutes. This is by far the most
interesting portion of our route. The track
frequently runs along precipices, and the
traveller has reason to regret the many snow-
sheds and tunnels, which frequently intercept
the view. Far below us, on the right, is seen
Lake Donner. We reach Summit (14 miles,
7,042 feet), the culminating point of the line,
in sight of snow capped mountains. The
descent on the western face of the Sierra, is
exceedingly steep (5,657 feet, in 71 miles).
The stations are Cascade (19 miles), Cisco
(27 miles), * Emigrant Gap (36 miles, 5,309
feet), *Blue Carton. (41 miles, 4,700 feet), Alta
(51 miles), Dutch Flat (53 miles), Gold Run
(55 miles), and Colfax (65 miles, 3,448 feet),
where the steep gradients cease. We follow
the north fork of the American river to Atiburn
(85 miles, 1,385 feet), a small mining town,
and soon afterwards enter the wide and fertile
plain of the Sacramento River.

SACRAMENTO (119 miles, 56 feet), 25,000
inhabitants, is the capital of California, at the
head of tidal navigation of the Sacramento
River. It is a well-built town, built on ground
which has been raised artificially to the extent
of 10 feet, to preserve it against inundations,
which were frequent and destructive formerly.
There are railway shops, flour mills, and a
woollen factory. The Capitol or state house is
the only public building of importance.

6^"" Travellers going west reach Sacramento at
10.25 a.m., those going east start at 3 p.m.

SACRAMENTO TO SAN FRANCISCO, 140 miles
in 7$ hours. Our route, for a considerable
distance, passes through the fertile valleys of
the Sacramento and the San Joaquin. From
Gait (27 miles), there is a stage road to the
Calaveras big trees. We cross the Mokelumne
River, and leaving the State Insane Asylum on
our right, reach STOCKTON (48 miles), a town
of 12,000 inhabitants, at the head of tidal
navigation on the San Joaquin, Mount Diablo
(3,856 feet), is seen on the right. We pass
Lathrop (58 miles), cross the San Joaquin, and
then turn in the direction of the hills which
separate the valley of that river from the bay
of San Francisco. Having passed through the
tunnel of Livermore Pass, we reach Altamount
(82 miles, 740 feet), the highest point on the
route, and then descend in the direction of the
bay. Niles (no miles, 86 feet). Leaving

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR,

JJecota, San Leandro and Brooklyn behind us,
we reach OAKLAND (134 miles), a favourite
suburban residence of the citizens of San
Francisco, on the bay, famous for its live oaks,
and the number of its schools.

Berkeley is 4 miles from here. It is the seat of the
Californian University, and of an Institution for the
Deaf, Dumb, and Blind.

A pier, 11,000 feet in length, with an im-
mense station at its head, brings us far out into
the bay, and a huge ferry-boat conveys us
across to San Francisco.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE. A steamer leaves Sacramento
daily at 2 p.m., reaching San Francisco at 10 p.m.
(Railway through tickets are available by this route.)
The Sacramento River flows through a marshy plain,
covered with rush or " tules." "We halt at CoHinsriUc
(27 miles), then at Rio Vista (48 miles), opposite to the
mouth of the San Joaquin and near the Montezuma
Hills, on the right bank of the river. Crossing Suisun
Bay, an enlargement of the river, we reach Benicia
(85 miles), 1,700 inhabitants, the old capital of Cali-
fornia, with an arsenal and barracks. We now pass
through Carquines Straits into San Pablo Bay. At the
lower end of the straits is the old town of VaUejo (90
miles), with the United States Navy-yard on Mare
Island. We now cross San Pablo Bay and pass between
Points San Pedro and San Pablo into the Bay of Cali-
fornia (95 miles), San Rafael, a favourite residence of
wealthy Californians, is seen in the bottom of a bay,
on the right; the State Penitentiary occupies Point
San Quentin near it. We pass Angeles Island (behind
it the small harbour of Saucelito), look through the
Golden Gate upon the Pacific, pass close to the fortified
Goat Island (Yerba buena) and land at San Francisco
(110 miles).

7TH DAY. SAN FRANCISCO.

A musemenis. California and Metropolitan Theatres ;
Alhambra Theatre; Maguire's Opera House; Wood-
ward's Gardens (museum, menagerie, &c.) ; two
Chinese Theatres (Dupont-street and Jackson-street) .

San Francisco, the chief city of California, is
situated at the eastern termination of the
Golden Gate, which connects the Bay of San
Francisco with the Pacific Ocean. The
ground upon which the city is built was
exceedingly rugged, originally, but most of the
ridges have been levelled. There remain,
however, Telegraph Hill, 294 feet, towards the
north-east, Russia Hill, 360 feet, in the west,
Rincon Hill, 120 feet, in the south-west. The
environs of the city are hilly and barren.

The city is regularly laid out. An immense
sea-wall, 8,340 feet in length, is now building.
It is quite of modern growth. In 1848, when
gold was first discovered in California, the
population was I,ooo. It rapidly increased to
25,000 souls, in 1850. In these early days,
San Francisco was a hot-bed of profligacy,
but it is now a well-ordered city of 150,000
inhabitants, doing an immense trade, and
carrying on important manufactures.

I The Chinese constitute an important element of the
population, and the quarter inhabited by them should
be explored. ' There arc several theatres, three temples,
mission halls, gambling halls, and opium cellars.
When visiting these latter it is advisable to avail one-
self of the services of a policeman.

1. We start from the corner of Market and Mont-
gomery-streets, where the Grand Hotel, and near by,
in Post-street, the Mechanic's Institute, with a library
of 30,000 volumes, and the rooms of the Academy of
Sciences. We walk up Montgomery-street. In Bush-
street, on the right, the Mercantile Library. Again
up Montgomery-street to California-street, then to the
right, and pass the Merchant's Exchange to Battery-
street. Up latter to Custom House. Then along
Washington-street back to Montgomery-street, and
again up latter to its northern extremity, where a fine
view.

Return by way of Washington -square. Near it, in
Vallejo-street, St. Francis Church, with four towers
each 90 feet high. Through a portion of the Chinese
quarter to the Old City Hall, on the " Plaza." At the
north-east corner of the Plaza the Hall of Records.
formerly the " Eldorado" gambling halls.

Down Kearney-street to California-street. Up latter
(to right) and past St. Mary's Catholic Cathedral, with
a spire of 200 feet, the first Congregational, and the
episcopal Grace Church as far as Taylor-street. Along
latter to intersection with Post-street, where Shcrcth
Israel, a synagogue (interior worth seeing). Along
California-street, past St. John's and the Turner
(Gymnastic) Hall to Union-square.

In N.W. corner of this square Trinity Church, in
S.W. corner Calrary-street, and in Geary-street, lead-
ing from its S.E. corner back to Market-street, the
First Unitarian Church, a chaste building.

2. We start from corner of Market and Kearney-
streets down 3rd street to ST. PATRICK'S CATHKIWAL,
in Mission-street, with a spire 240 feet high, one of the
most ambitious buildings in lln city. Back through
4th street to Market-street, and past the Jesuit Coll far
of St. Ignatius to 5th Street. Down latter to Mission-
.strcet, where the new United States' Mint, a fine
building. Back to Market-street and along it to the
new CITT HALL, in the Yerba Buena Park.

TT^ro wo tnkfi a car for the Mission Hall (1^ milos
di.stu.ntj. It was founded in 1776 and is built in adobe

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

bricks. "We return to the city by car (ask for one
passing the City Gardens and St. Joseph's Church in
Folsom-street).

3. The following excursion should by no means be
missed. The early part of the forenoon is most
favourable to it. There and back, from Old City Hall,
15 miles, of which about 5 by street cars. Take one of
the latter to the Lone Mountain (3 miles), surmounted
by a cross, near which are the Laurel Hill and other
cemeteries.

Then follow the fine drive to Cliff House (6J miles
from City Hall), on the open Atlantic, near Point
Lobes. Seal Rock, upon which hundreds of seal dis-
port themselves can be watched from here. A fine
beach extends southward to the Ocean House.

The lighthouse on the Farallones Islands (30 miles)
is seen in the distance.

"We return to town by following the bold coast of the
Golden Gate, as far as Fort Point (4 miles), walk
thence to the Presidio (1 mile further) and soon after-
wards meet with a" car which takes us back to the city.

4. Hunter's Point, 4 miles south of the city, where
there are dry docks and a Park may also be visited.
Oakland and other suburban villas beyond the bay we
shall visit in the course of one of our excursions.

THE GREAT GEYSERS.

The Geysers can be reached from San Francisco by
San Francisco and North Pacific Railway, via Donahue,
in about 5 hours. A couple of days will, there-
fore, suffice to visit them. "We propose, however, the
following more extended tour.

8TH DAY. SAN FRANCISCO TO CALISTOGA.

66 miles in 5 hours. Starting at 7 a.m. we reach
Calistoga at 12.20 p.m. Foss's coach, in connection
with the train, would take us to the Geysers in the
afternoon.

SAN FRANCISCO TO VALLEJO, 24 miles in
2\ hours (steamer). We cross the bay of San
Francisco and San Pablo Bay, and reach the
harbour of Vallejo, bounded on the west by
Mare Island, with a United States Navy Yard.
Vallejo, 6,500 inhabitants, is the southern ter-
minus of the California Pacific Railway, and
exports iron and corn.

VALLEJO TO CALISTOGA, 42 miles in 3 hours.
The route leads up the fertile valley of the
Napa River. The Stations are \-Napa Junc-
tion (7 miles); Suscol (n miles), where the
Mexican General Vallejo inflicted a serious
defeat upon the Indians in 1834; Napa (15
miles) 3,000 inhabitants ; Younls-ville (24
miles), and St. Helena (34 miles), both in
wine-producing districts.

The White Sulphur Springs (excellent hotel) are 2
miles from St. Helena.

CALISTOGA is a picturesquely situated water-
ing-place, within sight of forest-clad mountains.
The petrified forest is 5 miles S.E. of the town. It
was discovered in 1870, and consists of a large number
of trunks of trees which have been buried for ages
beneath volcanic tufa and have thus become fossilised.

Mount St. Helena, 4343 feet, an extinct volcano,
about 8 miles to the north of the town, should bo
ascended (good bridle path) . The view from its summit
is unsurpassed.

QTH DAY. CALISTOGA TO THE GEYSERS.

28 miles (stage coach) in 5J hours or more, according
to state of road. Railway building.

"We start about 7 .30 a.m. An evening and a morning
should be spent at the Geysers.

The new road crosses the hills between the
Napa and Russian rivers, passes Ray's Ranch
(617 feet), and the Geyser or Godwin's Peak
(3,470 feet), from which there is a magnificent
view over the fertile valley of the Russia river,
and then descends to the Sulphur Creek, upon
which abutts Geyser Creek.

The Geysers fairly coimt amongst the natural
curiosities of California, though they cannot rank
with those of Yellowstone Park or Iceland. There are
several hundred hot springs, iron, sulphur, soda, alum ,
salt or pure. The " "Witches Cauldron," the " Mountain
of Fire," and the "Alkali Lake" are mentioned as
amongst the most famous sights. The scenery is
delightful. The hills overlooking Clear Lake, towards
the north-east, should be ascended.

IOTH DAY. GEYSERS TO SAN FRANCISCO.

82 miles (rail and steamer) in 4 hours.
GEYSERVILLE TO DONAHUE 48 miles (rail),
in 2\ hours. We pass along the fertile valley
of the Russia river, as far as Healdsburg (10
miles), a pretty village in a rich wheat district.
Santa Rosa (25 miles), 3,000 inhabitants, stands
on a tributary of the Russia river. We cross
the water-parting, and reach Petahima (40
miles), 5,000 inhabitants, an important wheat
port, at the head of a creek, and then follow
the western shore of the latter, to Donahue
(48 miles), where we embark.

DONAHUE TO SAN FRANCISCO, 34 miles,
(steamer) in 2 hours. We cross San Pablo
Bay, and pass between Points San Pablo and
San Pedro, into that of San Francisco. On
bold San Quentin's Point, on the right, stands
the State Penitentiary ; in the back-ground is
seen the pretty little town of San Rafael.
Further on, is Angeles Island, and, at its back,
the small port of Saucelito. Goat Island, with
its fortifications, is seen on the left, in front of
Oakland, and the Golden Gate, on the right,
enables us to obtain a glimpse of the Pacific.
A few minutes more, and we land at San
Francisco.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

No tourist should omit to pay a visit to the Yosemite
Valley, which can be reached from San Francisco in a
couple of days. Tickets, including the journey by
stage as well as guidcf, are issued at San Francisco,

7 6

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

but travellers complain that the agents study their
comfort but little.

We have allowed three days to reach the valley, a
stay of one day in the valley, and one day for the
return journey to Merced, whence we start direct for the
cast, without returning to San Francisco.

The Calareras Big Trees we have not included in
our itinerary, for they are not very readily accessible,
- which the tourist will be able to pay a visit to
tin' Mariposa Grove. If any time remains at his corn-
mind he might visit in preference the new Yosemite
of the Tuolumne River.

ggp" Limit your baggage to what is absolutely
necessary. Any excess may be left at Merced.

feet), on the south fork of the Merced River,
where we stay the night.

The MARIPOSA BIG TREKS are within 4 miles of this
at an elevation of 5,500 feet above the sea. They are
427 in number, the largest having a circumference of
93 feet and a height of 260 feet, the tallest having a
height of 272 feet. The age of none of these tree?
appears to exceed 1,500 years.

I3TH DAY. CLARK'S RANCH TO YOSEMITE

VALLEY.
26 miles (stage).
After a journey of 6 miles, we cross Alder

IITH DAY. SAN FRAN3ISCO TO MERCED.

139 miles in 7| hours. "We start at 4 p.m., or we
miy proceed from San Francisco to Stockton by
steamer and thence by rail.

The first portion of this route, from San
Francisco to Lathrop (82 miles), has been de-
scribed, page 72. The remaining journey leads
through the fertile plain of the San Joaquin
River, past Modesto (102 miles), and Cressy
(125 miles), to Merced.

I2TH DAY. MERCED TO CLARK'S RANCH.

G2 miles (stage).

The first portion of our journey leads us
through a park -like undulating country, where
many abandoned diggings are to be seen. We
cross the "Mariposa tract," nearly 70 square
miles in area, which was presented to General
Fremont in 1848, and abounds in gold, silver,
copper, iron and coal, and reach MARIPOSA
(38 miles), an old mining town of 1, 200 in-
habitants.

"\Ye now toil up the hill to the mountain
summits, where giant pines and firs receive us,
and glimpses of the distant snowy peaks of the
Sierra Nevada are caught. White and Hatch's
(50 miles, 4,000 feet), lies beyond these hills.
"We cross another wooded ridge (5,000 feet),
and reach CLARK'S RANCH (62 miles, 4,000

Creek (5,900 feet), and reach Empire Camp
(6,018 feet). Following this rivulet up to its
source, we reach West/alls Meadoiv (13! miles,
7, TOO feet), where there are two houses of
entertainment.

The officers of the geological survey conducted by
Prof. Whitney, have cut a trail from this place to the
summit of SENTINEL DOME (8,150 feet) 8 miles, which
is practicable for horses nearly to the summit. The
road leads through a magnificent forest of pines,
cedars, and oaks, and the view from the Dome amply
repays for the toil involved in reaching it. Looking
across Yosemite Valley we have the Yosemite Falls
right in front of us. On the right Mount Lyell (13,217
feet) raises its snow-clad head, on the left are the
Cathedral Bocks (6,700 feet).

A journey of 5 miles from Westfalls brings
us to Inspiration Point (6,973 f eet ) where the
sublime beauty of the Yosemite Valley bursts
UDon us suddenly, and impresses itself indelibly
upon our memory. The most prominent ob-
jects in view are the bold promontory called
"El Capitan," the Cathedral Rocks, and the
Bridal Veil and Virgins' Tears Falls. The
descent of 7| miles is rather steep.

I4TH DAY. THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

The Yosemite" Valley was discovered in 1851
by a detachment of troops, commanded by
Major Savage, who was in pursuit of Indians.

VII. GREAT "WESTERN TOUR.

It is a gigantic trough or gorge in the moun-
tains, running at right angles to their regular
trend, and bounded by granite walls rising
almost perpendicularly to a height of several
thousand feet. This trough is about 8 miles
long, and from half a mile to a mile in width.
Streams of water leap from all sides over the
precipices, and form a series of cascades, un-
surpassed in beauty. The Merced River flows
through its bottom, which is for the most part
rich meadow-land covered with flowers, the
remainder being wooded. There are several
camps of Digger Indians, who live on acorns
and roots which they dig from the ground.

Entering the valley from the -west we first behold
El Capitan, on the left, by far the boldest precipice in
the valley, though not the highest (3,300 above the
valley, 7,300 feet above the sea), and the Cathedral
Rock (2,700 feet above the valley) on the right. The
Bridal Veil and the Virgins' Tears Falls face each
other. Further up, near the ferry, the Three Brothers
(3,830 feet) approach close to the river, and beyond
them, on the left, the Tosemite Falls leap from a
height of 2,634 feet. Opposite them the Sentinel Rock
raises its head (3,270 feet), backed by the Sentinel
Dome (4,150 above the valley).

On reaching the bifurcation of the river we first pro-
ceed up the northern Ten ay a Fork. Here are the
Royal Arches terminating in "Washington Column (2,500
feet), and backed by the North Dome (3,725 feet) . We
reach Mirror Lake, an expansion of the river, in
which the steep walls of the South or Half Dome
(4,740 feet) are reflected.

Retracing our steps and going up the main fork of
the Merced we perceive the Glacier Peak (3,700 feet) on
our right (a trail leads to the summit) and reach the
Vernal Falls. The summit of these can be reached
by a steep trail and ladders, and following the Merced
River for about a mile we arrive at the Nevada Falls.
The peak on the left is known as Liberty Cap (4,600
feet). Above the Nevada Falls is the Little Tosemite
Valley, about four miles long, which should be visited.

If the tourist have three or four days to spare he
may make an excursion to the TUOLUMNE YOSEMITE.
about 17 miles to the north of the Merced Yosrmite,
This Canon was discovered in 1872, and is s dd to be
superior in beauty to the more accessible Yosemite.
It is about 40 miles in length, and for a distance of 20
miles its width does not exceed a quarter of a mile, and
is bounded by precipitous granite-walls even exceeding
in height those of the Yosemite. There are numerous
waterfalls. Arrangements for the trip can be made at
either of the hotels.

I5TH DAY. YOSEMITE TO MERCED.

88 miles (stage).

This is a new stage road. The journey is
performed in six-horse coaches in a single day.
The road follows the bottom and hugs the
sides of the Merced River Valley, passing a
fine grove of big trees. At Hazel Green ( 1 8
miles, 6,679 f ee t above the sea), we reach the
old trail, and obtain a fine view of the San
Joaquin Valley. We pass Deer Flat (23 \ miles),
and Blacks (29! miles), and reach Bower Cave

(34^ miles), a curious fissure in the rocks, filled
with pellucid water. Our next station is
Coulterville (46 miles). The Merced River is
crossed at Snellings (67 miles).

BOUND EAST.

I6TH DAY. MERCED TO TRUCKEE.

234 miles in 18^ hours, including a forced delay of
4 hours at Lathrop. Starting from Merced at 6 a.m.
we reach Truckee at 35 minutes past midnight.

The whole of this route has already been
described, and we therefore merely mention
the principal stations. They are :

Merced, Lathrop (57 miles), Stockton (68
miles), Sacramento (116 miles), Auburn (150
miles).

Unfortunately, the most interesting portion
of the journey is performed after dark.

I7TH DAY. TAHOE AND DONNER LAKES.

We reach Truckee station at 12.35 a.m.,
and as our train for the east starts at the same
hour on the following day, we have just
twenty-four hours at our disposal, to pay visits
to the picturesque Donner and Tahoe lakes,
and to enjoy the magnificent scenery of the
Sierra Nevada.

Donner Lake is hardly more than two miles from
the Station, and travellers are conveyed to the hotel
there gratis, by an omnibus awaiting the arrival of
the trains. Tahoe Lake, 6,700 feet above the level of
the sea, is 15 milesto the south. The road leads along
the Truckee river, through the most exquisite scenery.
There are good hotels at both these lakes, and Lake
Tahoe-is navigated by a steamer.

l8TH, I9TH AND 20TH DAYS. TRUCKEE TO
CHEYENNE.

1,142 miles in 64 hours.

The route between Truckee and Cheyenne
has already been described (see 2nd and 3rd
days, 5th and 6th days). For the convenience
of reference, we insert a list of the principal
stations, their altitudes, and time of arrival.

Truckee

Reno

Wadsworth

ITumholdt

"Winnemuca

Palisade

Elko

Wells-

Tecoma

Ogden

Echo

Aspen

Distance

Altitude

Arrive

miles.

feet.

5866

12 35 a.m.

4525

2 50 a.m.

4104

4 40 a.m.

165

4262

9 5 a.m.

206

4355

11 55 a.m.

319

4870

3 36 p.m.

350

5030

5 40 p.m.

406

5650

8 15 p.m.

475

4600

11 50 p.m.

625

4303

8 a.m.

665

5507

12 40 p.m.

703

7825

3 30 p.m.

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

Distance Altitude Arrive

miles. i at

Carter 753 6535 5 55 p.m.

Bryan 798 6328 7 50 p.m.

Bitter Creek 872 6681 11 50 p.m.

Creston 919 7030 2 40 a.m.

Fort Stcele 963 6845 5 15 a.m.

Medicine Bow 1011 6561 7 50 a.m.

Laramie 1085 7143 12 noon.

Cheyenne 1142 6075 3 35 p.m.

6p= By at once proceeding to Denver the tourist

will be able to spend more time upon excursions

described for the 22nd day.

COLORADO.

A visit to the mining region of Colorado will amply
repay the visitor. "Weeks may be spent there, ex-
ploring: the Canons of the rocky mountains, ascending
snow-clad peaks, or penetrating into the " Parks " ex-
tensive upland regions of great fertility, surrounded
by mountains but we confine ourselves to a visit to
some of the most readily accessible places of interest.

South Park is the most attractive of the three, and
can be visited either from Colorado Springs, or from
Denver, or we may enter from Denver on the north
and come out at Colorado Springs or Canon City, on the
south.

IJSiP^ To Sportsmen. Grizzly and cinnamon bears,
ibex or mountain sheep, black-tailed deer and other
game abound in the mountains near Denver and
Colorado Springs. The streams are rich in trout.

2IST DAY. CHEYENNE TO DENVER.

1 06 miles in 6 hours.

The first part of our route leads through a
portion of the ' ' American desert. " At Summit
(10 miles), we cross from Wyoming into
Colorado. The Rocky Mountains appear on
the left, and remain visible during the whole
of our journey. Long's Peak (14,200 feet), is
the highest point. At Carrs (20 miles), a
curious rock resembling a ruined fort ; beyond
Pierce (39 miles), may be seen the villages of
prairie dogs. We cross the Cache a la poudre,
a clear mountain stream, flowing through a
fertile valley, and reach Greelcy (54 miles,
4,779 feet), a flourishing colony of 1,600
inhabitants, founded in 1870. The fields are
irrigated by canals. At Evans (58 miles), we
cross the south fork of the Platte river, on a
trestle bridge, 1,000 feet long, and for the
remainder of our journey we follow the right
bank of that river. The stations are Johnson
(74 miles), and Hughes (89 miles).

DENVER (106 miles, 5,196 feet), is situated
at the junction of Cherry Creek, and South
Platte, about 15 miles from the foot of the
Rocky mountains, which, owing to the trans-
parency of the atmosphere appear to be much
nearer. The city was founded in 1858, and
already numbers 15,000 inhabitants. It is the
commercial and political capital of Colorado.

The streets are wide and shaded with trees.
A "boulevard" extends westward, in the
direction of the Rocky mountains. The
Seminary, Mint, and Catholic Academy are
the principal buildings.

22ND DAY. EXCURSIONS FROM DENVER.

The tourist should arrange to return to Denver on
the same evening or very early on the following morn-
ing, in time for the train which starts at 7.45 a.m. for
Colorado Springs.

KIP We advise the tourist to proceed in the after-
noon of the 21st day either to Central City or to George
Town.

DENVER TO CENTRAL CITY. A broad
gauge railway brings us from Denver to
Arapahoe, at the foot of the mountains, and
j thence a narrow gauge line to the picturesque
' mining towns hidden in the valleys. Golden
\ City (17 miles, 5,729 feet), at the opening of a
picturesque valley, is the centre of an im-
portant mining region. We continue up the
Vaquez Creek as far as the Junction (28 miles),
and then turn up at Clear Creek Canon, which
is bounded by precipitous rocks-. Black Ilaiuk
(36 miles, 7, 543 feet), is a mining town, built
on the mountain side, with stamp mills,
foundries, and reduction works. Here we
leave the train and proceed by omnibus or on
foot to Central City, \\ miles distant, a
picturesque mining town, 8,300 feet above the
sea level.

Now back to the junction referred to above,
and thence by a branch line to Idaho Springs
(10 miles from junction), charmingly situated,
and higher up the Canon to Georgetown (23
miles from junction, 8,412 feet), the centre of
the silver mining region.

(irmfs Peak, 14,300 feet, is usually ascended from
Georgetown. The view is most extensive.

Return to Denver by rail (51 miles from
Georgetown).

If there is an early morning train, you. may pass the
night at Georgetown. We ought to observe that there
are but few regular passenger trains, but that freight
trains are occasionally available.

Boulder City, an important mining centre at the
mouth of one of the grandest Canons, possessing " all
the elements of the grand, the beautiful, and the
sublime," is 46 miles to the north of Denver (by rail).

23RD DAY. DENVER TO COLORADO SPRINGS.

70 miles, rail, in 5 hours.

The Rocky mountains remain in sight
during the whole of this ride. We gradually
ascend until we reach the Divide (52 miles,
7,208 feet), between the South Platte and
Arkansas rivers, where there are pine woods
and a small lake. The route then leads down
Boiling Creek. Near Monument Station (67
82

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

miles, 6,354 feet), is Monument Park (see
below).

COLORADO SPRINGS (76 miles, 5,986 feet),
is a neat town of 3,000 inhabitants, founded in
1871.

The Maniton Soda Springs (6,297 feet),
after which it is named, are 5 miles nearer to
Pike's Peak, which commands the whole of
the surrounding country, and are reached by
stage.

DAY. PIKE'S PEAK.

Within a few miles of Colorado Springs, the
tourist meets with sights fully worthy his atten-
tion. The Garden of the Gods is only a couple
of miles from the springs, and Glen Eyrie is a
mile further ; to Monument Park, which has
been likened to the burial place of a departed
race of giants, is 8 miles. Some of these sights
can be visited on the day of our arrival, and
the tourist should certainly not leave the spot
without having seen all, but the great business
of this day is the ascent of PIKE'S PEAK
(14,147 feet, or 7,840 feet above the springs at
its foot). There is a United States signal
station on its summit, occupied summer and
winter. The ascent offers no difficulties. For
8 miles we ride, and only the two remaining
miles of the ascent have to be accomplished on
foot). The timber line is passed at an elevation
of 11,500 feet.

The Uncompahgra Peak, 14,540 feet, is the highest in
Colorado, and Mount Whitney, 14,887 feet, in the
Sierra Nevada of California, the highest in the United
States. Mount Everest, in the Himalayas, rises to a
height of 29,002 feet, and Mont Blanc, in the Alps,
attains 15,646 feet.

25TH DAY. COLORADO SPRINGS TO DENVER,

Our train leaves Denver for the East at 9 in
the morning. It is advisable, therefore, to
proceed to that city the day before. This day
of comparative leisure enables us to visit many of
the places mentioned above, which may not
yet have been visited.

BOUND EAST.

26TH AND 27TH DAYS. DENVER TO
ST. LOUIS.

922 miles in 44 hours. We pass two nights on the
road, and are due at St. Louis at 6.22 a.m. on the
third day's travel.

8~ To Sportsmen. The ordinary tourist will pass
over this road without breaking his journey, but not
so the Sportsman.

Buffalo range from the neighbourhood of Denver as
far east as Ellis or Hays, 350 miles to the cast. They

are most frequent in summer and autumn, and some,
times it happens that they are killed by the train.
Elk, Mack-tailed deer, antelopes, and wild turkeys
also abound, more particularly to the north of the
line, between Ellis and Wilson, 400 miles from
Denver, in the eastern part of Kansas. Quail and
Prairie Chickens are most abundant between Salina
(454 miles), and Kansas city (639 miles). The season
for shooting the former is 1 October to 1 March, that
for the latter 1 August to 1 March. Below Kansas
City, along the Kansas River, waterfowl abound, sucb
as swans, pelicans, geese, crnnes, &c.

DENVER TO KANSAS CITY, 640 miles in
31 1 hours.

The railway journey, for the most part,
offers but little that is interesting. The scenery
resembles that along the more northern
Central Pacific Railway route, already travelled
over. Our train leaves Denver (5,197 feet )>
at 9 in the morning. We gradually ascend
until we reach Box Elder (22 miles, 5,546 feet),
and then descend, past Kiowa (31 miles), to
Bijou (44 miles, 5,221 feet), and Deer Trail
(56 miles, 5,203 feet). At Cedar Point (77
miles, 5,730 feet), on the divide between
Beaver Creek, and Sandy Creek, we reach the
highest point along the whole line. At River
Bend (84 miles, 5,511 feet), we reach the
Sandy River, which we follow downward as
far as Kit Carson (152 miles, 4,307 feet), a
busy town as long as it remained a railway
terminus, but now eclipsed by Denver. A
railway branches off here towards the south,
joining the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe
line, which is rapidly being pushed forward to
Colorado Springs, at Las Animas.

On the completion of that line travellers will be
able to return from Colorado Springs to the East,
without retracing their steps to Denver.

We cross over now to the head of the Smoky
Hill Fork of the Kansas. At First View (167
miles, 4,595 feet), the traveller westward
bound, is supposed first to descry the Rocky
Mountains. Cheyenne Wells (177 miles), is
named after the Cheyenne Indians who still
roam over this country. We continue along
the Smoky Hill Fork, past Arapahoe (187
miles), also named after an Indian tribe, and
close to the frontier of Kansas. Monotony,
Eagle Tail and Pond Creek to Wallace (219
miles, 3,319 feet), an eating station, with a
fort 2 miles to the south-east, on the bank of
the river.

We reach Wallace about 7 p.m.

We leave the river to our right, and enter
upon a vast prairie, more particularly the home
of the buffalo. At Grinnell (275 miles, 2,922
feet), are houses for drying buffalo meat.
Buffalo (289 miles), is one of the head quarters
of the buffalo hunters, as are also Ellis (337

VII.-GREAT WESTERN TOUR.

miles), and Hays (350 miles, 2,009 feet), near
the eastern limit of the "Buffalo range."
Following a tributary stream of the Smoky Hill
Fork, we again reach the latter river at Bunker
Hill (387 miles, 1,882 feet), about 6 o'clock in
the morning.

The country improves in appearance.
Ellsworth (416 miles), on the Smoky Hill
Fork, stands in a fine grazing country. At
Fort ILirker (421 mile?), we again leave the
river, and cutting off a bend, which it makes to
the south, pass Summit (423 miles, 1,672 feet),
Brookville (439 miles), and several other
stations, again reaching the river at Salina
(454 miles, 1,242 feet), in a district abounding
in brine springs.

Salina is reached about 6.15 a.m. It is an eating
station.

We now follow the left bank of the Kansas
River to within a mile or so of its confluence
with the Missouri, crossing many of its tribu-
taries, which flow through fertile valleys. At
Solomon (468 miles), we cross the Solomon
Fork. Between Junction City (489 miles),
and Fort Riley (504 miles), we cross the
Republican Fork. Timber abounds. Man-
hattan (520 miles), stands near the mouth of
the Big Blue River, on high bluffs. It is the
seat of an agricultural college. St. George
(529 miles), at the mouth of the Black Jack
Creek, has much trade in grain. Wamego
(535 miles), on the Kaw River, is an eating
station.

"We arrive here at 10.40 a.m.

St. Mary's (549 miles), lies in the centre of
the reservation of the Potawatamie Indians, an
exceedingly fertile tract of land. TOPEKA
(572 miles, 904 feet), on the other side of the
river, is the capital of Kansas. There are a
State House, Lincoln College, a female
academy, and 9,000 inhabitants.

LAWRENCE (60 1 miles, 846 feet), is a hand-
some town on the southern bank of the Kansas,
founded in 1854 by New Englanders, who had
a severe struggle with border ruffians. In 1 863,
it was sacked by a band of Southerners, who
killed 150 unarmed citizens, and burnt 75
houses. The town has recovered from these
disasters, and now numbers 12,000 inhabitants.
The State University occupies a prominent hill.
We pass Edwardville (626 miles), and not far
from Wyandotte City, which remains on our
left, we cross the Kansas River, and soon
afterwards reach State Line (639 miles), an im-
portant railway junction, on the boundary
between Kansas and Missouri, with stock yards

rivalling those of Chicago in extent, and
Kansas City (640 miles, 764 feet).

KANSAS CITY, on the Missouri river, not far
from its junction with the Kansas, was laid out
in 1830. But the town increased but slowly in
population, until after 1856, and it now
numbers 40,000 inhabitants. The first bridge
over the Missouri was built by its enterprising
citizens, and it is the terminus now of eight
railways. The environs are fertile. Beef and
pork packing, and the trade in cattle and grain,
are of importance.

KANSAS CITY TO ST. Louis, 282 miles
(Missouri Pacific Railway), in I2f hours by
night train, starting at 4. 45 p.m., we reach St.
Louis at 6.22 p.m. on the following morning.
The whole of our route leads through the State
of Missouri. Independence (10 miles, 1,034
feet), was laid out in 1827, and for a time the
Mormons had one of their settlements here,
which they called New Jerusalem. The sur-
rounding country is exceedingly beautiful.
The town numbers 3, 500 inhabitants. We pass
Little Blue (17 miles), Lee's Summit (23 miles),
Pleasant Hill (34 miles), a town of 3,000 in-
habitants, with seven churches, Kingsville (46
miles), and Holden (50 miles), and reach
WARRENSKURG (64 miles, 874 feet), 4,000 in-
habitants, with considerable trade in wheat.

"Warrensburg is reached at 8 p.m.

Passing Knobnoster (75 miles), thus called
from the " knob" or mound upon which it is
built, and Dresden (87 miles), we reach
SEDALIA (94 miles, 889 feet), a town of 6,000
inhabitants, founded in 1860, and an important
railway junction. California ( 132 miles), is the
most important station before we reach
JEFFERSON CITY (157 miles, 556 feet), on high
bluffs on the Missouri river, the capital of the
State, picturesquely situated but not otherwise
remarkable. We now follow the southern bank
of the Missouri, crossing two of its more im-
portant tributaries at Osage (165 miles), and
Gasconade (194 miles). Hermann (202 miles),
also on the Missouri, is a German settlement
of some importance, producing an abundance
of grapes. At Labadie (238 miles), we leave
that river, and at Pacific (245 miles), formerly
called Franklin, we reach the Meramec, which
enters the Mississippi below St Louis. Kirk-
wood (269 miles), is a favourite residence of the
opulent merchants of St. Louis. We pass
Webster (272 miles), Laclede and Cheltenham,
and finally reach the Union Depot of ST.
Louis (282 miles).

Here we rejoin our Central Tour, 8th day.

VIII.-STATISTICAL TABLE,

EXHIBITING AREA AND POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES, AND THE BRITISH
DOMINIONS IN NORTH AMERICA.

UNITED STATES.

New England Area sq.

Population Coloured Indians

Pacific States

Connecticut
Maine
Massachusetts
New Hampshire

4,750
35,000
7,800
9,280

537,454
626,915
1,457,351
318,300

9,668
1,606
13,947
580

235
499
151
23

California 188,981
Nevada 104,125
Oregon 95,274

582,031
58,711
101,883

4,272
357
346

29,025
16,243
11,273

Rhode Island

1,306

217,353

4,980

154

Vermont

10,212

330,551

924

Territories

Middle States

District Columbia 64

131,700

43,404

Delaware
Maryland
New Jersey
New York
Pennsylvania
West Virginia

2,120
11,124
8,320
47,000
46,000
23,000

125,015

780,894
906,096
4,387,464
3,522,050
442,014

22,794
175,391
30,658
52,081
65,294
17,980

4
16
5,144
133
1

Arizona 113,916
Dacota 150,932
Idaho 86,294
Montana 143,776
New Mexico 121,201
Utah 84,476
Washington 69,994

41,710
40,501
20,583
39,895
111,303
99,581
37,432

26
94
60
183
172
118
207

32,073
27,520
5,631
19,457
20,738
12,974
14,796

S. E. States

Wyoming 97,883

11,518

183

2,466

Florida

59,268

188,248

91,680

502

Indian Territory 68,991
Alaska 577,390

68,152
70,461

6,378

59,367
70,000

Georgia

58,000

1,184,109

545,142

North Carolina
South Carolina

50,704
34,000

1,071,361
705,606

391,650
415,814

1,241
124

Total U. S. 3,603,884 38,925,598

4,886,387*357,981

Virginia

38,348

1,225,163

512,841

229

* Exclusive of 63,254 Chinese.

Southern States

Alabama

50,722

996,992

475,510

Arkansas

52,198

484,471

122,169

Kentucky

37,680

1,321,011

222,210

108

BRITISH DOMINIONS.

Louisiana

41,346

726,915

364,210

Mississippi
Tennessee

47,156
45,600

827,922
1,258,520

444,201
322,331

809
70

Area

Pop.

Col.

Indians

Texas

274,356

818,899

253,475

699

Ontario 107,780

1,620,851

14,184

Quebec 193,355

1,191,516

10,942

Central States

New Brunswick 27,322

285,594

1,386

Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Michigan

55,410
33,809
55,046
81,318
56,451

2,539,891
1,680,637
1,194,320
372,299
1,187,234

28,762
24,560
5,762
17,108
11,849

240
348
9,814
8,101

Nova Scotia 21,731
Prince Ed. Island 2,173
Manitoba 13,923
British Columbia 213,000
N. W. Territory 2,934,000

387,800
94,021
11,963
42,000
85,000

1,715

323

45,709
28,520
45,700

Minnesota
Missouri

83,531
63,350

446,056
1,721,295

759

118,071

7,040
75

Total Dominion " o vi o o nft
of Canada ] 3,513,300

3,718,746

148,479

Nebraska

75,995

1^9,322

789

6,416

Newfoundland 40,200

146,536

Ohio

39,964

2,665,260

63,213

inn j

"Wisconsin

Colorado

53,924
104,500

1,064,985
47,164

2,113
456

11,521 Total British U KR Q ni
7,480 ! Dominions \ <*,o53,000

3,865,281

148,479

IX.

INDEX AND LIST OF HOTELS.

ALBANY, 21.

Delavan Hotel, 4 dollars 50 cents ; Congress

Hall, 4 dollars ; Stanwix Hall, 3 dollars.
Alton Bay, 14.
Athens, 35.
Augustine (St.), 61.

St. Augustine Hotel, 3 dollars 50 cents ;
Magnolia House.

BALTIMORE, 37.

Carrolton House and Barnums, 4 dollars a
day ; Eutaw House, 3 dollars 50 cents ;
Howard House, 2 dollars. European :
Mount Vernon Hotel, Guy's Hotel.
Belpre, 35.
Benicia, 73.
Bloomington, 29.
Boston, 13.

American : Evan's Hotel, 4 dollars ; Clarendon,
3 dollars 50 cents ; Adams and Quincy
House, 2 dollars 50 cents. European :
Parker House, Crawford House, Sherman
Hotel.
Bristol, Va., 50.

Nichols' House.
Brooklyn, n.

Pierrepont House, 4 dollars.
Buffalo, 24.

Mansion House, Tifft's Hotel, Western Hotel,
Revere House.

CALDWELL, 20.

Lake Hotel, Fort William Hotel
Calistoga, 25.

Calistoga Hotel, 3 dollars.
Catskill, 21.

Prospect Park Hotel, Catskill House, Irving

House.
Cave City, 32.

Central City, 82.
Champlain Lake, 19.
Charlottesville, 46.
Charleston, 61.
Charleston, 4 dollars ; Pavilion, 3 dollars ;

Waverley, 2 dollars 50 cents.
Chattanooga, 57.

Crutchfield House.
Cheyenne, 68, 81.
Railroad House.
Chicago, 27.

Palmer House, Sherman House, Grand
Pacific Hotel, or Tremont House, from 3
dollars 50 cents a day : Central, or Metro-
politan, 2 dollars 50 cents ; Massasoit, 2
dollars. European : Burke's, Kuhn's Hotel.
Restaurants : Palmer House, Tremont House,
Burke's.
Chillicothe, 35.
Cincinnati, 33.

Burnet House, Gibson House, Spencer House,
St. James's. European : Carlisle House.
Restaurants : Keppler's and St. Nicholas in
Fourth Street, Beckers in Mound Street.
Clifton, 24.
Colorado, 81.

Springs, 82.
Manitou House.
Columbus, 56.

Cook's Hotel, Perry House.
Conway, 15.

Kearsage House, Sunset Pavilion.
Crawford House, 15.
Croton, 22.
Cumberland, 36.

DENVER, 8r.

American : Tremont, Sargents.
Deposit, 23,

INDEX.

Detroit, 26.

Rossin House, Queen's Hotel.
Donahue, 76.
Donner Lake, 80.
Dover, N.H., 4.

American House.

ELMIRA, 23.

Rathbun House, Hathaway House, Brainard

House.
Enterprise, 60.

Brock House.

FALL RIVER, 12.

City, Mount Hope, Union Hotels.
Florida, 58.
Francisco (San), 73.

Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, or Lick
House, 3 dollars ; Russ House, 2 dollars 50
cents ; Brooklyn Hotel, International.
Franconia Mountains, 15.
Fredericksburg, 66.

Exchange Hotel.

GEORGE LAKE, 20.
Geysers, 75.
Glen House, 15.
Goshen, 48.
Grafton, 35.

HARPER'S FERRY, 36.
Hartford, 12.

Allyn House, 4 dollars ; City Hotel, 3 dollars.
Harvard University, 13.
Highbridge, 12.
Hudson River, 21.

ITHACA, 23.

JACKSON, Miss,, 52.

Bowman House.
Jacksonville, 59.

St. James, Metropolitan, Magnolia.
James River, 64.
Jefferson City, 86.
Johns (St.), Canada, 16, 19.
Johns (St.), Florida, 59.

KANSAS CITY, 86.

St. James's Hotel.
Kingston (Can.), 17.
Knoxville, 50.

LAWRENCE, 85.
Lawrence (St.) River, 18.
Lexington, 48.

Phenix House.
Louis (St.), 30.

Southern Hotel, 4 dollars 50 cents ; Planter's
House. European : Grand Central. Restau-
rants : French's, in Fifth Street ; Porcher's,
in Olive Street.

Louisville, 31.
Louisville, National, and United States

Hotels-
Lynchburg, 49.

MACON, 57.

Spottiswood House, Brown House.
Magog, 1 6.

Mammoth Cave, 32, 5*.
Manassas, 46.
Mariposa big trees, 78.
Martinsburg, 36.
Memphis, 52.

Gayoso, Commercial.
Memphremagog Lake, 16.
Merced, 77.

El Capitan Hotel.
Michigan Lake, 27.
Millborough, 48.
Mississippi River, 53.
Mobile, 55.

Battle House, 4 dollars.
Montgomery, 56.

Exchange Hotel.
Montreal, 16.

St. Lawrence Hall, Ottawa House, Montreal

House, Albion Hotel.
Mount Vernon, 45.

NASHVILLE, 51.
Natchez, 53.

Natural Bridge, Virginia, 49.
Newhaven (Con.), 12.

Newhaven House, 4 dollars ; Tontine or

Tremont, 3 dollars.
New Orleans, 54.

St. Charles, 5 dollars ; St. James, or City
Hotel, 4 dollars. Restaurant ; Moreau's, in
Canal Street.
Newport, Rhode I., n.

Ocean House, Atlantic, Truro.
Newport, Maine, 16.

Memphremagog Hotel.
New York, 9.

Windsor, or Fifth Avenue Hotels, 5 dollars ;
Grand Central, or New York, 3 dollars 50
cents. European : Westminster, Astor
House, Brevoort, Metropolitan. Restau-
rants : Delmonico's, Fifth Avenue and
Fourteenth Street.
Niagara Falls, 24.

Clifton House on Canadian side, Cataract
House, International, and others on American
side,

Norfolk, 63.
Atlantic, National.

OAKLAND, 73.
Ogden, 69.
Omaha, 66.

INDEX.

Ottawa, 17.

Russell House, 2 dollars 50 cents ; Daniel's

Hotel, 2 dollars.
Otter Peaks, 49.
Owego, 23.

PARKERSBURG, 35.
Perth Amboy, 40.

Brighton House.
Philadelphia, 39.

Continental, 4 dollars 50 cents ; Girard House,
3 dollars 50 cents ; Bingham or St. Cloud,
3 dollars ; Central or Ridgway, 2 dollars.
Restaurants : Continental, International, or
Ashes, all in Chestnut Street.
Pike's Peak, 83.
Pilatka, 60.
Plymouth, 15.

Railway Hotel.
Plattsburg, 20.

Fouquet's Hotel.
Portage, 23.
Port Jervis, 23.
Portsmouth, 64.
Profile House, 15.

QUEBEC, 18.

St. Louis Hotel, 3 dollars; Russell House,
Blanchard's Hotel.

RED RIVER, 53.
Richmond, 64.
Exchange Hotel or Ballard House, 3 dollats ;

St. James's or Ford's, 2 dollars 50 cents.

Restaurants : Pozzini's or Zetelle's.
Riviere du Loup, 19.
Rocky Mountains, 68.
Rouses Point, 19.

SACRAMENTO, 72.

Orleans, Capitol.
Salt Lake City, 69.

Walke House, Townsend House.
Saguenay, 19.

Saratoga Springs, jo.

Grand Union, Grand Central, Clarendon.
Savannah, 57.

Screven or Pulaski House, 4 dollars ; Marshall

House or Pavilion Hotel, 3 dollars.
Springfield 29.

Massasoit House, Cooley's Hotel
Staunton, 47.
Stockton, 72.

TADOUSAC, 19.
Tahou Lake, 80.
Ticonderoga, 20.
Toronto, 26.

Rossin House, Queen's HotcL
Truckee, 71.
Tuolomne, 79.

VALLEJO, 75.
Vicksburg, 53.

Prentiss House.
Virginia Springs, 45.

WARM SPRING, 48.

Washington, 43.

Arlington, 5 dollars ; Wilard's, 4 dollars 50
cents ; Ebbitt use or Metropolitan, 4
dollars ; National, 3 dollars 50 cents.
European : St. Marc, St. James's, St. Cloud.
Restaurants : Welkers, Fifteenth Street.

Washington Mount, 15.

Wells River, 15.

West Point, 22.
West Point Hotel, Cozzens.

Weyer's Cave, 47.

White Mountains, 14.

Crawford House, Glen House, White Moun-
tain House, Profile House.

White Sulphur Springs, 48.

Wilmington, 63.

Winnipisseogee Lake, 14.

Wolfborough, 14.
Pavilion Hotel.

YOSEMITE VALLEY, 76.

Leidigs, Hutchings, and Blacks.

DUBLIN WHISKY,

GENUINE AND SPURIOUS.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE

PRACTISED UPON CONSUMERS.

LONDON:

SUTTON, SHARPE & Co.,

18, AUSTIN FRIARS, E.G.

Feb. iv-

PREFACE.

THE issue to the public of the following pages seems to require a
few words of explanation. Four years ago we, whose names are
given below, were the only distillers in Dublin ; and our distilleries have
been conducted by our respective families since the latter part of the last
century. We have never manufactured anything but genuine or "pot-still"
Whisky, and we have never been concerned in any "blending" operations.
We have long deplored the great frauds which, of late years, have been
committed in the Whisky trade ; and, now that attention has been called
to these frauds by the press, we have thought it due to our own reputation,
to the reputation of our manufacture, and to consumers, that we should
take advantage of the opportunity which has been afforded us, and that we
should endeavour, by all legitimate means, to spread abroad a knowledge
of the particulars which this pamphlet contains.

JOHN JAMESON & SON'S TRADE MARK

WM. JAMESON & Go's TRADE MARK

JOHN POWER & SON'S TRADE MARK

GEORGE ROE & Go's TRADE MAR

WHISKY FRAUDS.

IT is a remarkable circumstance that the popular spirit which is called
WHISKY should recently have given occasion, on both sides of the
Atlantic, to a great display of ingenuity on the part of persons who so far
resemble one of the great classes described by the Tichborne Claimant that
they must at least be admitted to have " plenty brains." It would be
hardly correct, now that their operations have been to a considerable extent
successful, to say they have " no money ; " for we fear they have made a
great deal, and that they have made- it by methods which we cannot lie
expected to approve. In America the aim of the " Whisky Ring " has
been to defraud the revenue ; in the United Kingdom the more limited
ambition of dealers has been to palm off a fictitious or " changeling" spirit
upon the consumer.

On the istof February, 1876, the Times paper published the following
article :

"IRISH WHISKY.

11 On the igth of April, 1875, in the debate in the House of Commons
on the Adulteration of Food and Drugs Bill, Mr. O'Sullivan moved an
amendment which was intended to prevent the sale of a compound known
as * silent Whisky.' The honourable gentleman said that he had persuaded
one of his friends to taste this compound, and that the friend compared
it to ' a torchlight procession going down his throat.' He added that
genuine Irish Whisky was worth 6s. per gallon, and complained not only
that those who made it were undersold by means of adulteration with
rubbish worth only 2s. &?., but also that the Government encouraged this
practice, which was injurious to the health and sanity of the people. In
the Government stores there were sometimes large quantities of so called
Dublin Whisky, which contained only a very infinitesimal per-centage of
the genuine article, or even none at all. The Government gave the same
permit for the sending out of that poisonous and deleterious stuff as for
genuine Whisky, and thus the purchaser and the consumer were deceived
and defrauded. Mr. Brooks followed on the same side; but the Chancellor
of the Exchequer said that the matter lay a little outside of the Bill then
under consideration, and invited Mr. O'Sullivan to discuss it privately with
him on another occasion, so as to come to a settlement. The amendment
was therefore withdrawn ; but the evil of which Mr. O'Sullivan complained
has not been diminished, and will probably be brought before Parliament
as an independent question early in the ensuing Session. There may,
perhaps, be some doubt as to the necessity of any legislation with regard

Whisky Frauds.

to it ; but there can be no doubt that the facts of the case are important
to all consumers of Whisky, and that they ought to be known and under-
stood by the public. Of late years, down to a very recent period, on
account of the high quality of the Whisky made by the Dublin distillers,
and of the virtues which were ascribed to it the demand for this spirit
increased enormously, and to a great extent it displaced others in the esti-
mation of the public. But the increased demand has led in its turn to
the manufacture, by dealers, on an immense scale, of a mixture which
is sold as Irish, or even as Dublin Whisky, but which has nothing in
common, save its name and a basis of alcohol, with the true Whisky,
of which it is an imitation, and on the reputation and qualities of which
its sale is founded. The result has been that many persons who have
ignorantly bought the artificial compound under the belief that it was
genuine Irish Whisky, in the original sense of the term, have been
disappointed in its flavour and properties ; and hence, during the last
year or two, the sale of all varieties of Whisky has undergone a diminution
in favour of other spirits, on account of the discredit which has been
attached to the name by those imitations of Whisky to which Mr.
O'Sullivan referred.

"A very large number of vegetable substances can be made to yield
ardent spirit by distillation; and this ardent spirit, when it is prepared
by any of the simple stills which were formerly in exclusive use, contains
not only alcohol, the common basis of all spirit, mingled with more or
less water, but also an admixture of other ingredients, mostly oils, acids,,
ethers, or analogous compounds, which are soluble in the diluted alcohol,
and which are in every case more or less characteristic of the source from
which the distillate is obtained. The alcohol and the water are invariably
present, but the other ingredients constitute the flavouring matter by which
any one kind of spirit is distinguished from other kinds, and by virtue of
which it possesses its special properties, be they beneficial or injurious.
Thus, spirit so distilled from the grape contains the oenanthic ether, or
essential oil of wine ; spirit so distilled from corn contains fusel oil ; and
spirit so distilled from molasses, or beetroot, or potatoes, contains sub-
stances proper to its raw material ; insomuch that an experienced person
would have no difficulty in declaring, by smell or taste, the source from
which any sample of recent spirit had been obtained. At the beginning
and at the close of distillation the flavouring matters come over in larger
quantities than at other times ; so that the first and last parts are more
strongly flavoured, or, in technical language, are * coarser/ than the rest,
and are received in separate vessels, that they may not impart their char-
acter of coarseness to the bulk. It is obvious that the management of
this part of the process of distillation, on which the quality of the product
greatly depends, must be managed with much skill and care; and some
portions of the proceeds are submitted to redistillation before they are
thought fit to be set aside for use.

"The crude, or new spirit, as it comes from an old-fashioned still,
is never fit for human consumption. In some instances the essential
oils brought over with the distillate are so noxious in their character, or
So excessive in quantity, or so unpleasant in flavour, that it is necessary

Whisky Frauds.

to remove them by rectification, which is a process of redistillation, after
admixture with substances calculated to fix and retain the oils. In other
nstances the oils, although unpleasant at first, undergo oxidation or other
chemical changes in course of time, and pass into new compounds of an
agreeable character. This process, which occurs but slowly under ordinary
conditions, is capable of being accelerated by an elevated temperature
and by free exposure to air, so that, in the West Indies, it has been a
common practice to render new rum drinkable by allowing it to percolate
through a sort of filter made of green bushes. But in the case of spirits,
as in the analogous case of wine, the best results are obtained by allowing
the maturing process to proceed in bulk, and at its natural rate ; and
hence, among those who are consumers of alcohol, many kinds of old
spirits have come to be highly and deservedly esteemed.

"Among these, as far as the British Islands are concerned, a prominent
place has long been held by Irish, and especially by Dublin Whisky*
This spirit, when genuine, is prepared in old-fashioned stills called ' pot Y
stills, by the distillation of a mash made partly from malted and partly
from unmalted barley. The process of distillation is so managed as to
bring over a product of the proper fineness, loaded with only so much
essential oil as will undergo the desired changes within a reasonable
time; and the new spirit is then stored in old sherry casks, from which
it derives some additional flavour, and also its well-known yellowish tint
(all distilled spirits being originally colourless), and it is kept in bond
generally for about three years. By the end of that time the fusel oil
which it once contained has undergone conversion into other compounds,
and the result, the real Dublin Whisky, is a spirit singularly free from any
tendency to produce acidity, and flavoured, in a manner highly esteemed
by connoisseurs, by the products of the gradual and spontaneous decom-
position of its fusel oil, which, although itself noxious, is ultimately-
replaced by essences of a harmless character. From Whisky made and
treated as described the bulk of the fusel oil generally disappears in about
twelve months, although the spirit continues to undergo beneficial changes
for" a much longer period of time. Genuine or original Scotch Whisky
differs from Irish in being distilled from a barley mash only, without
malt ; * and in Ireland a certain quantity of Whisky has been distilled
from a malt mash alone.

" The Irish manufacture, notwithstanding the existence of a few
provincial stills, was for a long period vested almost exclusively in the
hands of the four great distilling firms in Dublin namely, Messrs. John
Jameson & Son, Messrs. William Jameson & Co., Sir John Power &
Son, and Messrs. George Roe & Co. These firms held a position analogous
to that of the great brewers in London and Dublin ; and, partly because
they had established reputations at stake, partly on account of their
command of the grain market and of the necessary knowledge and skill
in manufacture, they turned out products which had points of difference
as among themselves, but which were always of genuine character and

* This appears to have been an accidental reversal of Avoids : the correct statement
would be " from a malt mash alone without barley."

Whisky Fraiids.

of superior quality, so that they placed Dublin Whisky in high estimation
as a spirit for ordinary domestic use, and also as a form of alcohol
especially suited to dyspeptics and other invalids. The market which
was thus created became so large that some of the dealers or middlemen
who intervened between the producers and the consumers, began to cast
about for fresh sources of supply, from which they might themselves
derive a larger share of the profits of the trade than had hitherto fallen
to them. In this quest they were guided by a well-known precedent,
and they seem to have neglected none of the lessons which it taught.

" The Dutch followers of King William III. had introduced into
England the practice of drinking ' Hollands ; ' and the demand for this
spirit led, in no long time, to the manufacture of a cheap imitation of it,
which was called * Geneva,' and ultimately * gin.' As soon as the trade
in gin was well established, it gave rise to a competition in price,
which could only be maintained by a competition in adulteration, and
dealers vied with one another in producing a liquid at a minimum of price,
and possesssing a maximum of fiery and intoxicating properties. Cayenne
pepper, turpentine, cocculus indicus, and a variety of other drugs, were
either used or supposed to be used, until at length the name of ' blue
ruin ' became a synonym for gin, and the phrase ' gin-drinker ' became
a synonym for degradation. It is well known that the poisons which
are added to diluted alcohol, to conceal its weakness and to render it
intoxicating, produce a drunkenness of a more hurtful and a more hope-
less kind than that which is produced by alcohol itself. Gin fell into
disrepute among the respectable classes of society, and it is probable
that the trade in spurious imitations of it to some extent shared in the
decline.

11 In the year 1860 an Act of Parliament gave permission to mix,
or, as it is euphemistically called, to ' blend ' spirits in bond ; and this
permission led to a new era in the Whisky Trade. Previously, a cask
of Whisky purchased from a distiller could not be tampered with until
the purchaser had paid the duty and had carried his property away ; and
the large amount of capital which would have been locked up in duty
prevented dealers from attempting adulteration on an extensive scale.
Since 1860, however, the dealer has been able to work his will with
spirit in the Government warehouses in Ireland, and his mixture whatever
its nature or ingredients, has been sent out as Irish or Dublin Whisky.
Some five-and-thirty years earlier a Mr. Coffy had invented and patented
a still which may be worked in such a manner as to bring over only a
very small quantity of fusel oil and analogous substances, or in such a
manner as to bring over none at all, the product being then pure diluted
alcohol, like the < rectified spirit of wine ' which is sold by druggists,
and is called 'silent' spirit in the trade, presumably because it tells no
tales with regard to the materials from which it is derived.

" Spoiled barley and a variety of refuse of other kinds soon found their
way into the patent stills, and the resulting mixture of alcohol and water,
which required no keeping, and which was obtained more cheaply than a
J pot' still spirit of equal strength, was used to adulterate and cheapen the
latter. If we take Mr. O'Sullivan's figures and suppose that a dealer bought

Whisky Frauds.

genuine Whisky at 65. per gallon and mixed with it an equal quantity oi
silent spirit at 2s. &/., his result would cost him only 45. 4^. per gallon, and
would enable him to undersell the pot still distillers. His spirit would be
equal to theirs in alcoholic strength, and would only differ from it by being
diluted as regards flavour. If a ' coarse ' pot still Whisky, imperfectly matured
or of imperfect manufacture, were selected for dilution a still larger proportion
of the silent spirit might be added without entire loss of the original or natural
flavour, and a still cheaper mixture might be obtained ; while, as water is in
most places inexpensive, and as the public have no ready means of estimat-
ing alcoholic strength, a still further saving would follow simple dilution
with the pure element, corrected when necessary by the use of drugs, to give
an artificial pungency upon the palate. These simple methods, however,
soon ceased to be all-sufficing, and the competition between dealers in point
of price led to a continual increase in the quantity of silent spirit employed
(this ingredient being in the first place largely imported from Scotland) and
in many cases to the absolute omission of genuine Irish Whisky from the
compound. Taking, as an example, a ' blend ' made in the Dublin Custom-
house in December, 1875, it contained 1162 gallons of silent spirit imported
from Glasgow, two quantities of silent spirit, respectively of 2120 gallons
and of 2989 gallons, imported from different houses in Edinburgh, 1623
gallons of silent spirit from Cameron Bridge, and 298 gallons of silent spirit
manufactured at Derry. In the whole 8192 gallons there was nothing but
silent spirit, not one drop of anything which could properly be called Whisky,
and very little that was even of Irish manufacture. Yet the whole quantity
was exported from the Dublin Custom-house as * Dublin Whisky ;' and it is
manifest that the only inducement to bring over hundreds of thousands of
gallons of Scotch silent spirit to Dublin, and to mix them there, is that they
may go out to the world not as Scotch spirit, but as Irish. Another 'blend,'
less flagrantly dishonest, made in the same place and at about the same time,
contained in 6703 gallons 786 gallons of genuine Dublin Whisky. The rest
was made up of 3512 gallons of (presumably coarse) provincial Irish Whisky,
and of 2405 gallons of ' silent spirit.' This mixture, also, was officially
declared to be ' Dublin Whisky.' In some instances, moreover, Scotch
silent spirit has merely been landed on the Dublin quay and reshipped as
Whisky immediately afterwards.

" Among the dealers who have carried on these practices, and who have
in many cases extensively advertised their products, there are some who
have called in the aid of analytical chemists, and have laid great stress on
the absence of fusel oil in what they sell. They do this quite justly, and
they might truly affirm that silent spirit is far more pure, in the chemical
sense, than genuine Whisky. But they lose sight, or they wish the public
to lose sight, of two chief elements in the question. It is quite certain that
genuine Whisky, when it is new, contains fusel oil and that fusel oil is
deleterious to man. But genuine Whisky, when it is no longer new, ceases
to contain fusel oil ; and its peculiar flavour, which is not deleterious, is a
product of the decomposition of fusel oil, and is itself an evidence that this
oil, which was once there, has ceased to exist. On the other hand, the silent
spirit, which is pure in the chemical sense, is undrinkable in its pure state,
because, although it is hot in the mouth, it is in other respects tasteless. In

Whisky Frauds.

order to render it marketable it must be doctored into some resemblance to
the flavour of genuine Irish Whisky, and its eventual qualities will depend
upon the ingredients which are employed for this purpose. Who can pre-
tend to say what these ingredients are, or what may be their effects, seeing
that each dealer may work by his own recipe and may have special secrets of
his own ? Considering that the ordinary basis of the manufacture is silent
spirit of known value, it may be presumed that variations of price are mainly
due to variations in the cost of flavouring matter, or to variations in the time
which different kinds of flavouring matter require before the mixture is.
ready to be sent out. Among the ingredients which are not kept secret,,
preparations called 'prune wine ' and ' essence of sherry ' may be mentioned,
and it is supposed that the thousands of butts of a vile compound called
Hamburg sherry, worth 8/. or g/. a butt, which annually pass through,
the English Customs on their way to Ireland, are not consumed in that
country, but are fortified with silent spirit and returned to England under
the name of Irish Whisky. We do not pretend to express any opinion
on the merits of the various manufactures to which we have referred,
but the opinion of the public is distinctly adverse to them. Under the-
impression which they have produced upon consumers, the Whisky
trade has been declining, relatively to the trade in the varieties of spirit
which are sold under other names. The importation of silent spirit
from Scotland into Ireland has also declined, but this is because some
of the dealers, who at first carried on business by means of an office
with two rooms, aided by the facilities which were afforded them to use
the bonded warehouses as mixing rooms, have found it prudent to render
themselves veritable distillers by setting up, often somewhere in Ireland,
patent stills, or even one or two pot stills, of their own. Silent spirit
is also made in England in larger quantities than formerly, so that the
Scotch manufacturers have no longer the command of the market.

" Notwithstanding the reply of the Chancellor of the Exchequer to
Mr. O'Sullivan's motion, it seems manifest that a sound Adulteration Act,
although it might not prohibit the proceedings which we have described,
would prevent the public from being deceived by them. If there are con-
sumers who like to drink silent spirit variously flavoured, we see no reason;
why they should not be indulged. Our view goes no further than that such
artificial compounds, however delectable in themselves, ought not to be sold
under the name of Whisky but under a name or names which should truly
express their nature. Whisky is a perfectly definite liquid, with characters:
of its own, and those who desire to purchase Whisky should be protected
against fraudulent imitations of it, even if these were actually more whole-
some than the genuine article. We all admit that the interference of legis-
lation with trade is undesirable, and that it should at best be regarded as a
necessary evil. Notwithstanding, this laxity must stop somewhere, and it
may as well stop short of encouraging misrepresentation and deceit. In the
meantime it seems likely that a purchaser might obtain some security by
demanding the Whisky of a particular distiller, and by stipulating that it
should be of a certain age, and that it should be unmixed."

The disclosures contained in the foregoing article fell like a thunderbolt
into the camp of the conspirators, and were speedily followed by the appear-

Whisky Frauds.

ance of four or nve letters from distillers who had not been mentioned or in
any way specially indicated, but who were exceedingly eager to call out, of
course only for the information of the public, " Please, sir, it wasn't me ! "
After a period of breathing time, an elaborate defence of the makers of
Scotch " silent spirit " appeared in the Scotsman for Feb. yth, and was soon
followed by others in Ridley's Wine and Spirit Trade Circular, and in the
Wine Trade Review. We cannot claim to be in the confidence either of the
editor of the Times or of the writer of the Whisky article, but if, when they
lash a knave, these gentlemen like to hear him howl, the Scotsman and the
Wine Trade Circular and Review must have afforded them, if those publi-
cations were brought under their notice, much pleasure and amusement. In
the meanwhile, Mr. Punch, ever ready to lift his baton in defence of fair
dealing, had stepped into the fray ;* and on the I5th of February the Daily
Telegraph devoted to the subject a leading article, from which we subjoin a
considerable extract :

" Those who wish to avoid violent extremes in the treatment of a
question on which it seems far from probable that English humanity will
ever come to a unanimous agreement, are naturally anxious to select
for their moderate potations the least noxious of spirituous liquors, and to
make use of all possible means within their power to ascertain that
the liquor which they purchase is what it professes to be, and not
a fraudulent and often unwholesome imitation. Hitherto the palm

* "WHISKY V. 'SILENT SPIRIT.'

"Alas, alas for Whisky,

That spirit pure and clear,
That made its drinker frisky,

Yet left his liver clear !
Now vile adulterators

Have caused its name to stink :
Can Irishmen be traitors

To Ireland's noblest drink ?

"The nectarous amber fluid

That Erin used to send
Pure stuff as ere was brewed .

Is now a poisonous ' blend ; '
For the true potheeny flavour,

And the fire from headache free,
From fusel oil its savour,

Its consequence, D.T. !

*' O spring of merry laughter,

O fancy, frolic, fun,
That drew no black bile after,

From honest worms while run.
Now sullen, silent spirit

Sets brains and blood aboil ;
Can Erin aught inherit

But woe from fusel oil ?

Whisky Frauds*

for purity seems to have been, by a general consensus, awarded
to Irish Whisky, not only by the great body of the public, but by
those medical men who do not set there faces absolutely against the
consumption of alcohol. Even the uncompromising Dr. Benjamin
Richardson, while he denounces ' cordial gin ' as a deleterious compound
into which there may enter such ingredients as oil of juniper, oil of bitter
almonds, essence of angelica, oil of coriander, carraway, vitriol, garlic,
Canadian balsam, and Strasburg turpentine, candidly admits that Whisky
is far less falsified than gin ; and the worst he can say against the first-
named product is that it acquires its yellowish colour by being kept in old
sherry casks. But the doctor falls into a curious error when he observes
that Whisky is modified by ' blending,' or mixing with other preparations
of alcohol * so as to communicate extra qualities of softness and smooth-
ness.' It is precisely against this practice of ' blending ' that not only
the legitimate manufacturers, but the connoisseurs among Irish Whisky
consumers are just now most hotly protesting. They declare it to be
neither more or less than an audacious adulteration of the pure spirit,
lowering the quality of the beverage, spoiling its flavour, and endangering;
the health of drinker. The trumpet-note of alarm was first sounded by
Mr. O'Sullivan, M.P., during the debate in the House of Commons on the
Adulteration of Food Bill, in April, 1875, when the honourable Member
moved an amendment prohibiting further traffic in a mysterious compound
known in the trade as 'silent' Whisky, which, it seems, since 1860, when
the ' blending ' of spirits in bond was first authorized by the Legislature,,

" Of vintner and of Grocer

We long have been the sport'
Claret to ink comes closer,

And elder rules in port.
Petroleum fizz of ROEDERER

Usurps the famous brand;
And Hamburg, wholesale murderer,

With her sherry floods the land !

"In wonder I am stranded,

So strange it seems to think
The Irish, nation candid,

Should send us filth to drink,
Vile spirit, which the deuce is

The nose and cheek to blotch,
And Erin's calm excuse is

' We get it from the Scotch.'

lt O Firms oi both the JAMESONS !

O Firms of POWER & ROE,
Don't let HIBERNIA claim a sons

The scamps who trea* her so.
Home-Rulers effervescent
Pool Erin may endure,
But she'll ne'er be convalescent,
Till her potheen is pure."

Punch, Fel) -12th, 1876

Wh isky Fn uds.

been mingled in enormous quantities with the product, purporting
to be Dublin Whisky, lying in the Irish bonding warehouses. Mr.
O'Sullivan's description of the taste of ' blended ' Whisky is diametrically
at variance with Dr. Richardson's conclusions as to the ' softness ' and
' smoothness ' communicated to the article by mixing it with another
fermented agent ; since the honourable gentleman mentioned that he had
persuaded a friend to taste some of the 'silent Whisky, 3 and that the
person in question declared the effect produced upon his fauces was as
though ( a torchlight procession had gone down his throat.' To this
humorous accusation was joined the more serious charge that, whereas
genuine Irish Whisky was worth 6s. a gallon, the respectable and honest
Dublin distillers, who had long manufactured the unadulterated article, and
had brought it into well-deserved celebrity, were at present systematically
undersold by the 'blenders,' who, with the tacit connivance of the
Government, were enabled to add to a basis of presumably Irish Whisky
prodigious quantities of alcoholic rubbish which might not be worth
half-a-crown a gallon. Mr. O' Sullivan was fain to withdraw his certainly
useful amendment, as the Chancellor of the Exchequer was not of opinion
that the 'blending' of spirits in bond could appropriately come within the
purview of the particular Adulteration of Food Bill then under discussion.
Nevertheless it may be confidently assumed that during the present Session
the attention of Parliament will again be called to this important subject,
and that, either by action on the part of the Government or by a Bill
brought in by a private Member, steps will be taken to prohibit the habitual
sophistication of Irish Whisky, and to prevent her Majesty's subjects from
being injured by ' torchlight processions ' going down their throats.

" The old-established Dublin producers of a commodity which for so
many years the public have found extremely palatable and invigorating, and
which the faculty have constantly recommended as the most wholesome of
spirits, contend that they are being subjected to a double injury by the
toleration of this process of blending. That the manufacturers are under-
sold by the unscruplous traders who are said to mix coarse grain spirit
distilled in Scotland and elsewhere, and not worth 2s . gd. a gallon, with
Irish whisky which should be distilled from malt, and is worth 6s. a gallon,
seems clear enough. But an additional blow has been stricken, it is
represented, at the interests of the bond-fide distillers, by the circumstance
that since Mr. O'Sullivan moved his amendment last April it has been
widely bruited abroad that the quality of all Irish Whiskies has degene-
rated, and the comsumption of the article has in consequence undergone a
serious diminution. Meanwhile a controversy is still going on as to the
extent to which the Whisky distillers out of the sister isle immediately
or remotely participate in these objectionable proceedings. Of course, the
Scotch manufacturers have plenty to say for themselves ; and, in con-
troverting the assertion that Scotch differs from Irish Whisky inasmuch
as while the first is distilled from a barley mash only, in Ireland a certain
quantity of spirit has been extracted from a malt mash alone, one North
British firm declares that every practical distiller is aware that no grain
mash, whether of barley, wheat, or Indian corn, can be worked without a
large per-centage of malt. Again they point out that certain Scotch

ll'Jiisky Frauds.

Whiskies, such as Glenlivat, Islay, and Campbelton, are made from nothing
but pure malt, and are as good as the genuine Dublin sort. Such, possibly,
may be the case ; and no person possessing the slightest acquaintar.ca with
the processes of the manufacture can be ignorant that there are several
Scottish Whiskies of well-merited celebrity which are made from pure malt.
But, on the other hand, it is notorious that vast quantities of a coarser
spirit are distilled mainly from grain, and frequently from grain of a very
inferior quality ; that when barley is the basis of the mash oats are always
freely added, and that, instead of a ' large per-centage,' only a very small
amount of malt is required just sufficiently to saccharify the starch in the
barley or other grain. Such, at least, is the published statement respecting
the ordinary manufacture of Scottish grain spirit put forth by Dr. George
Wilson, sometime Professor of Chemistry at the University of Edinburgh.
There are many collateral issues connected with the alleged falsification of
Irish spirits in bond with unholy compounds known to the initiated as
* prune wine,' Hamburgh Sherry,' and ' cocked hat spirit,' into which we
do not care at present to enter. It is sufficient for the nonce to know that
a large body of irrefragable evidence points to the habitual adulteration of
so-called Irish Whisky with an inferior spirit, and that the adulteration is
carried on by means of < blending ' while the spirits are in the bonding
warehouses. No amount of special pleading can argue away the fact that
such a system enables unscruplous firms to puff the sale of an almost
worthless and possibly unwholesome mixture to the disadvantage of a
genuine and wholesome one ; and that the honest distillers and the too
confiding public thereby suffer both in purse and in person. It matters
little whence comes the cocked hat spirit,' or the ' grain spirit,' or
whatever the adulterating agent may be whether from the Tay, the
Clyde, or the Elbe. It is enough to be cognizant of the disagreeable
certainty that Irish Whisky has been and is still largely and deleteriously
adulterated ; and that speedy legislative, or at least administrative, inter-
ference with the practice of < blending ' spirits in bond has become a matter
of urgent necessity."

Finally, two days later, the Medical Examiner, recognizing the great
importance of the question to doctors and to the sick, as well as upon
dietetic grounds generally, published the following, as part of a series
of systematic " Food Reports : "

"WHISKY, GENUINE OR SPURIOUS.

" An article on Irish Whisky, which has lately appeared in the
Times, has called public attention to the manner in which some of the
spirit that is sold under this name is manufactured, and has incidentally
opened a question gf some importance to the members of the medical
profession, by whom, as is well known, ' Whisky ' has of late years
been largely recommended as one of the best forms in which alcohol
can be either administered as a stimulant or consumed for domestic use.
Genuine Whisky, it appears, is a spirit distilled either from a mixture
of malt and barley or from malt alone, the former being the Irish, the
latter the Scotch method of manufacture, although in the Times' article,
by an obvious slip of the pen, the Scotch spirit was said to be distilled jrom

Whisky Frauds.

'.barley' alone. In either case the distillation is conducted in an old-
fashioned ' pot ' still, a thing precisely like a huge retort, and furnished
with the well-known spiral worm for the condensation of the products.
In the case of Scotch Whisky, it is believed that the smoke of the peat
fire which is employed imparts something of its flavour to the spirit ;
and both in the Irish and Scotch varieties the pot still sends over, along
with ethylic alcohol and water, a number of other substances derived
from the barley or the malt, which determine the flavour and, in great
measure, the other properties of the result ; and which serve, indeed, by
.their presence, to differentiate Whisky from spirit of other kinds. The
difference between genuine Scotch and genuine Irish Whisky is somewhat
.analogous to the difference between Bordeaux wine and Burgundy ; and
.the spirit, like the wine, is unfit for use until it has been matured by
keeping. For this purpose it is stored in wooden casks 4 and some of
the Dublin distillers use old sherry casks for this purpose, thus imparting
to their spirit a certain yellowish or brownish colour, and some vinous
flavour. Other distillers use clean casks ; but in either case the effect
of time is to break up and remove the amylic alcohol, or fusel oil, by
spontaneous decomposition, and to produce a number of fragrant ethers
.in its stead. The fusel oil disappears from genuine Whisky in about
a year, but a spirit originally of high quality will continue to improve
.in wood until it is ten years old. After that time it should be bottled,
.and may then be kept indefinitely for future use.

"The production of Whisky, in this, the original and only proper
sense of the word, requires not only large capital and much skill, but
also the use of the finest malt or barley which can be obtained ; and the
spirit, which is necessarily of a certain value in the first instance, has
that value enhanced by the process of keeping. The manufacture of
Irish Whisky, was almost monopolised, a few years ago, by four great
.distilling firms in Dublin; but the products of these firms were supplied
to the public by the intervention of middlemen, who had no stills, and
.had never made a drop of Whisky in their lives, but who issued advertise-
ments and placards, and who thus became known as Whisky people,
.and kept the actual makers in the background. In process of time,
these middlemen saw their way to make larger profits by diluting new
-or coarse genuine Whisky with rectified spirit ; and more recently,
-emboldened by success, they have sold vast quantities of spirit which
.contains no Whisky at all, but is simply a medicinal tincture, composed
of rectified spirit, and of various flavouring substances known only to
themselves. The rectified spirit is made by what is called a patent
still, which brings over only ethylic alcohol and water from the fermented
Jiquor supplied to it; and this fermented liquor my be made from
damaged grain, rotten potatoes, refuse molasses, or any other waste
which contains a sufficiency of glucose or of starch. The rectified spirit
thus procured is called silent spirit ' in the trade, because it brings over
no flavour, and so tells no tales about the sources from which it is
procured. Being made from refuse, it is much cheaper than Whisky,
.and it is chemically pure, or nearly so. When made into a tincture,
it is ready for immediate consumption, and it is then sold under the

Whisky Frauds.

name of Whisky, often with some grand distinctive title, and at a low
price. It is obvious that a physician who prescribes Whisky may be
seriously deceived, if his patient receives instead of it a tincture which
does indeed contain alcohol, but which is indebted for its flavour to prune
juice, creosote, Hamburgh 'sherry,' and ' Xeres,' besides a variety of
abominations which are known only to the dealers who use, and to the
druggists who manufacture and supply, them.

" In the presence of such a state of things, it is to be hoped that the
manufacturers of genuine Whisky will see their way to come to the rescue
of those who wish to recommend or to consume their manufacture, and that
they will organize some system of supply in which the public may feel con-
fidence. Chemistry is of little use in the matter, because the organic com-
pounds, both in Whisky and in the spurious imitations, are very unstable
and difficult of isolation ; and also because many professed analysts have so
let themselves out for hire, as the agents of trade puffery, that they have
brought doubt and discredit even upon those whose hands are clean. The
palate and the nose, however, furnish tests which are valuable. Genuine
Whisky, diluted with twice or thrice its bulk of cold water, gives off a subtle
and delicate perfume, which is highly characteristic ; and like genuine wine,
imparts both to smell and taste the impression of unity or oneness. Imitation
Whisky, similarly treated, gives off five or six coarse nasty smells, which
struggle with each other for pre-eminence, until that of rectified spirit finally
gains the day ; and it tastes like what it is, a discordant mixture of ill-assorted
flavours. Price also is, to some extent, a criterion. Genuine five-year old
Whisky (and it should not be drunk at an earlier period), of 10 under proof,
can hardly be sold by a retail dealer at less than twenty-three shillings a
gallon, or four shillings a bottle ; while large quantities of the imitation are
sold at seventeen and sixpence a gallon, or even at less. Some little con-
fusion has been introduced into the question by the circumstance that much
of the silent spirit that was first used in the manufacture of sham Whisky
was made in Scotland, and was sent to Ireland to be exported from thence
as Irish. In this way Scotch silent spirit became confounded with Scotch
Whisky, and the bad qualities conferred upon the former by the flavouring
ingredients which were added to it were sometimes unjustly attributed to the
latter. We feel, however, that the profession will now be sufficiently in-
formed of the facts to be able, with the exercise of due caution, to secure the
use of genuine Whisky for those who seem to them to require it ; and the
information which we have thought it right to give seems to be the more
called for, since some of our medical contemporaries, probably in absolute
ignorance of the merits of the question, have printed more than one glowing
eulogium upon this and that variety of medicated silent spirit, which after-
wards, by some stmnge coincidence, has often been freely advertised in their
columns."

The publicity which has thus been given to the Whisky question, in
so many and such influential quarters, leaves us no choice but to come
forward as manufacturers, and to enter into such details as may put
consumers in full possession of the facts, and may enable them to form a
sound judgment upon the various liquids which, under the name of
Whisky, are at present competing for their patronage.

Whisky Frauds.

We may, in the first instance, say that the statements made by the
Times, the Daily Telegraph, and the Medical Examiner, are, in the main,,
correct ; and that the practices which these journals describe and condemn
have prevailed and still prevail extensively. They have for their basis,
the endeavour to give to common rectified or silent spirit the character
of genuine Whisky, and to do this at sudi a cost as may insure the custom;
of the lowest class of publicans, who desire to supply to habitual
dram-drinkers a liquid that shall be at once cheap, strong-tasted, and
fiery. In proportion as success in this endeavour is attained, so the
practice and the injurious effects of dram-drinking will be encouraged,
and increased.

It is necessary, in the next place, to explain the true nature of the
operation which is called " blending," about which a great deal of nonsense
has been written and believed. In Loftus's " New Mixing and Reducing
Book, for the use of Publicans and Spirit Dealers " we read that " blending
the produce of different distilleries is the great art of the succcessful
Whisky dealer ; " and this statement is true enough, if the proper inter-
pretation is put upon the word successful, which here means to be
successful in making money by passing off an inferior article as a superior
one. It has been industriously represented by many dealers that their
so-called " blends " are improvements upon each one of the contributory
spirits taken singly. On this part of the question we recommend the
credulous to study statements which have been made by the United Vine-
yards Company with regard to the practices of certain dealers in brandy ;
statements which will be found quoted in extenso (p. 206, et seq.) in a
work entitled " British and Foreign Spirits," by Charles Tovey, and which
appear to have remained without contradiction. If these statements are
to be believed, the " blending " of the dealers in question consisted in
buying up brandies which were inferior in value to Cognac brandy to the
extent of from 15 to 30 per cent., of mixing these brandies with true
Cognac, and of selling the resulting " blend " as, and at the price of,,
Cognac itself. There can be no doubt that such an admixture would.
improve the inferior brandies, and as little that it would deteriorate and
degrade the Cognac. Mr. Loftus further informs us that the article
extensively sold in England by well-known dealers as Irish Whisky
consists of a judicious mixture of several spirits ; and we may safely
appeal to the common sense of our readers for an answer to the question
whether the judiciousness is likely to be shown in any other way than by
mixing something which is cheap with something else which is dearer;
in the hope that the whole may be palmed off as of the higher quality,
or else with the view of under-selling the merchant who supplies the
higher quality only. The case of spirit is totally different from that -j
wine, for the differences between two samples of carefully-prepared and'
genuine Whisky, of like age, are not sufficient to allow each one of tham
to correct the faults, if such there be, of the other. In the case of two-
young wines it is well-known that one of them may have an excess, of
sweetness, the other an excess of astringency, and an admixture o;
the two may be better than either. But an admixture of spirits is :
resorted to in order to obtain cheapness at the cost of genuineness,

Win sky Frauds.

else in order to conceal and merge the inferior variety by means of the
excellence of the superior.

Assuming, as we are fully entitled to assume, that our own products
cannot be surpassed in quality, and admitting that they require time in
order to render them fit for consumption, let us see for what objects
they are likely to be blended. A dealer holds, let us say, 1000 gallons
of Whisky from each of our respective houses, worth, on an average,
from 55. to 65. per gallon. He does not mix these 4000 gallons together,
and sell the mixture at an advance of price to pay him for the exercise
of his skill in blending; but he dilutes our Whisky with thrice its measure
of silent spirit manufactured in an apparatus termed, Coffey's Patent
Still. The result will be comparatively flavourless, because silent spirit
has no taste, properly so called, and is only fiery; while genuine Whisky
has no superabundance of flavour. The next necessity, therefore, is to
add to the mixture something which is strong-tasted in small bulk ; and
for this purpose it is customary to use either provincial Irish pot still
Whisky, originally coarsely made, or other Whisky which is so new that
Jt has not yet cleared itself of its fusel oil by the effect of time. In
J:he latter case the consumer gets what is not yet fit to drink ; in the
former case he gets what will never be fit to drink at any time. Taking
the aggregate of seven " blends " made in the Dublin Custom-house in
December, 1875, and in January, 1876, we find that they contained

Gallons.
Silent Spirit ... ... ... ... ... 15,707

Irish Provincial Whisky ... ... ... 9,811

Dublin Whisky ... ... ... ... 4,375

29,893

and the mixtures thus formed might be retailed under cover of specious
advertisements as "the very finest of Old Irish Whisky," or in similarly
deceptive terms. The only use of the silent spirit is to dilute the Dublin
Whisky with a cheaper material, and the provincial Irish Whisky is
added to conceal the adulteration by the greater coarseness of its own
flavour. Coming from the general to the particular, we give details
of two Dublin blends as examples of the rest, both of them having
been made by the same firm of dealers, in December, 1875, No. i, in
vat 3504, No. 2, in vat 3634 :

No. i CONTAINED:

Gallons.
Spirit (presumably silent), from Macfarlan, Glasgow... ... 1,162-5

,, ,, ,, Harvey, Edinburgh... ... 2,1207

Watt, Deny 298-8

,, ,, ,, Haig, Cameron Bridge ... 1, 623*6

Menzies & Co., Edinburgh ... 2,989-7

8,195-3

Whisky Frauds.

No. 2 CONTAINED :

Gallons.

Spirit (presumably silent) from Haig, Cameron Bridge ... 1,173-6

Watt, Deny ... 479-2

,, Walker, Limerick ... ... 753'2

Provincial Irish Wliisky, from Daly, Tullamore ... ... i554'4

,, ,, ,, ,, Devereux, Wexford ... ... 1,958.2

Dublin Whisky, from John Power & Son ... ... ... 786-0

6,704 6

We have selected these two blends because, from a comparison of
dates and quantities, they appear to be the same which were referred to
in the Times. The second of them is precisely an example of the kind
of mixture we have already described ; 786 gallons of Dublin Whisky
diluted with 2406 gallons of silent spirit to cheapen it, and 3512-6
gallons of provincial Whisky added to restore taste to the compound.
No. i, however, is deserving of still more consideration, because it appears
to have consisted entirely of silent spirit. Silent spirit being tasteless,
nothing can be gained by blending it, other than the convenience of getting
certain odd lots together into a single vat. For the same reason, that of
tastelessness, it would be undrinkable, or at least it could not be called
Whisky, until it had been in some way medicated ; and from this point
of view it is not without interest to note that this " blend" was made
by a firm who are also the makers and sellers of a mixture which is,
we have been told, one of the ingredients from which fictitious spirits
are prepared. Messrs. Haig, of Cameron Bridge, wrote to the Times
concerning this blend, to say (after correcting the mistake or misprint
which we have already noticed, by which "barley" was put for "malt")
that they possess and use "pot stills," and also to say that they do
not call their product "Irish," but "old still" or "pot still" Whisky.
If they have pot stills, and use good materials in them, they can doubtless
make good Whisky ; but, if so, it should be sold as genuine Scotch
Whisky, instead of being first brought by unprincipled dealers to Dublin,
for no other purpose than to be again shipped from thence as " Dublin
Whisky." Again, if we are not misinformed, Messrs. Haig have patent
stills also, and patent stills can no more yield Whisky than they can yield
Cognac. They yield silent spirit, which is not Whisky. Messrs. Haig's
assertion, that they " do not trade under false colours, or call their
manufacture ' Irish ' Whisky," admits of the simple reply that no one said
they did. Those who trade under false colours are the dealers who buy
Scotch silent spirit, take it over to Dublin or to Belfast, mix it there
with other kinds of spirit from various sources, and then bring the whole
brew to England as Irish Whisky. If it were not to be passed off
ultimately, and by somebody, as Irish Whisky, the Scotch silent spirit
would be brought direct to England by train, and would never be shipped
to Ireland at all.

The "blending" of Dublin is less important than that which is
carried on at Belfast, where upwards of three million gallons of British

Whisky Frauds.

-spirits were blended and sent out into consumption during the year 1875.
Qf these Belfast blends the two following are typical examples :

No. i, blended on September 2gth, 1875, contained as follows:

Gallons. From. Warehoused.

534-7 A. Walker & Co., Limerick ... ... Aug. 16, 1875.

373-0 Menzies & Co., Edinburgh ... ... Sept. 8,

149-4 Stewart & Co., Kirkliston... ... ... 18, ,,

1122-7 J. W. Harvey & Co., Glasgow ... ... 18,

406-3 Stewart & Co., Paisley ... ... ... ,, 24,

672-6 Stewart & Co., Kirkliston,.. ... ... 24,

1505-4 R. W. Preston & Co., Liverpool ... ... 24,

341-5 Stewart & Co., Kirkliston... ... ... 28,

5105-6

-No. 2, blended on gth of June, 1875, contained as follows:

Gallons. From. Warehoused.

644-1 S. Bruce, Comber ... ... ... ... Jan. 19, 1875.

1292 ... ... ... ... Feb. i,

129-5 i,

1925-2 Macfarlane & Co., Glasgow ... ... ,, 4,

1296-3 A. Walker & Co., Liverpool ... ... 4, ,,

1023-5 4,

1269-4 Menzies & Co., Edinburgh ... ... ... 5,

'^6417-2

AVith what possible object, as the Times has already pointed out, could all
this Scotch silent spirit be sent over to Ireland, and then sent back again,
.-except that it might be made to pass as Irish Whisky ?

'In the Times of February the 23rd, there is a paragraph which contains a
-condensation of a statement prepared by " Scotch Distillers," in reply to the
.article of February the ist. The " Scotch Distillers " in question are not
named, and we therefore have no means of knowing how far they are repre-
sentative men ; but the Times has permitted them the luxury of sufficient
rope for their own suspension, and they have availed themselves of the
privilege in an effectual manner. They say that the " accepted definition of
Whisky" (accepted by whom?) is " spirit distilled from a mixture of
grain and malt, or malt alone," and that the term applies equally to pot still
or patent still spirits. They forget that Whisky was a favourite beverage
before patent stills were in existence ; and hence that the only proper defini-
tion of Whisky is spirit distilled from the materials and by the method which
were in use when the name was given. They proceed to say that the " so-
called " Dublin Whisky has therefore no exclusive right to "the appellation."
What this means is not quite clear ; but it can hardly be denied that Whisky
rr.ade in Dublin has an exclusive right to the appellation of" Dublin Whisky."
or that Whisky made in Ireland has an exclusive right to the appellation of
"Irish Whisky." Next, they deny that "silent" spirit is so called because

Whisky Frauds.

it tells no tales about its sources ; and, in support of this denial, they assert
that the produce of their own patent stills sometimes stinks abominably, and
can only be sold for methylation. Of this last assertion we are willing to
give them the full benefit. Next, they say that nothing but " perfect grain,
and skill and care in the manufacture, can produce even a partially silent
spirit " (what is "partially silent ? ") ; but they do not explain what becomes
of all the spirit that is distilled at Alloa from the damaged grain cargoes that
come to Leith ; and they leave upon the mind the general impression that the
Scottish spirit used in making spurious Whisky is a good deal worse than it
was supposed to be. They deny that drugs are used to give pungency to
" blends," on the ground that " blending is effected under the supervision of
Government officers, and by law no drugs can be added." What truly Arca-
dian innocence and simplicity ! If by law no drugs can be added, of course
they never are added ; and equally of course the " blended," spirit is never
medicated at any subsequent time. They say that the charge of adulteration
with Hamburgh sherry has been " sufficiently disposed of" by a letter signed
*' Se Defendendc" of which we shall have to speak anon. They think it
not surprising that dealers should buy what is cheap (and nasty ? ) in pre-
ference to what is of higher price ; and they declare that patent still spirit
is to a large extent stored for years in sherry casks (why ?), and that it is
this "old "spirit which is "often" used for blending. In point of fact
patent still spirit is so highly distilled or rectified, in the process of prepar-
ing it, that it is simply alcohol and water and nothing -more ; and hence it
follows that it does not undergo any change, other than simple loss, by keep-
ing, and that it is incapable of being matured or improved by time. It does
not contain any of the ingredients by virtue of which the pot-still spirit pro-
ceeds to its full development ; and, if it is indeed stored in sherry casks as
represented, the only object of thus storing it must be that it may acquire
from them colour and vinous flavour, so that it may be better adapted to
mislead the public. It is impossible to conceive that the blender would
waste the strength of silent spirit by keeping it, unless it were obtaining some
medication to compensate him for his loss. Lastly, the authors deprecate
Government interference ; and they triumphantly point out the presence of
the word " blended " on every cask in which blended spirit is contained.
They do not say, however, that this word " blended " is faintly scratched on
the wood, in such a manner as to be illegible, and that the Commissioners
of Inland Revenue, in the interests of the Scotch silent spirit trade, have
protested against its being affixed in a distinct and proper manner. On the
whole, the " statement " is a very curious one; by reason of the ingenuity
with which it evades at every point, while professing to refute them, the
charges of which its authors complain.

It is necessary in this place that we should guard ourselves against the
possibility of wounding Scottish susceptibilities by any unguardedness of
expression. We must say distinctly what we hope is already plain, namely,
that there is no question of making Scotch Whisky pass for Irish Whisky,
but only of making Scotch silent spirit pass for Irish Whisky. We accept
the happy phrase of the Medical Examiner, that the difference between
genuine Scotch Whisky and genuine Irish Whisky is analogous to the
difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy, each being excellent in its

Whisky Frauds.

kind, and each commending itself to educated palates. It is our good for-
tune that the palates which prefer Dublin Whisky are more numerous than
those which prefer Scotch ; and hence, whilst the demand for Scotch Whisky
is chiefly in Scotland, or among Scotchmen in other countries, the demand
for Dublin Whisky is very large in England, and among Englishmen all
over the world. To the maker of genuine Whisky, whether manufactured
in Scotland or Ireland we hold out the right hand of fellowship ; and so we
do to the maker of silent spirit, when that article is applied to its proper
uses as for burning in spirit lamps, for making varnish, for compounding
medicines, and for a great many purposes in chemistry, pharmacy, and the
arts. We only object to it when it is shipped to France and returned under
the name of Cognac, or when it is shipped to Ireland and " blended " there,
in order that it may be sent into the English market under the name of Irish
Whisky. Taken alone, it has the virtues and the faults of alcohol ; but
when it is bedevilled into sham Whisky, or into sham Brandy, it is without
the special virtues, over and above those of their alcohol, which real Whisky
and real Brandy possess, and it has faults which are all its own, and which
arise from the ingredients which must be added to it in order to give colour
to the name by which it is called. Among these, perhaps the least noxious
is the fusel oil of new or coarse Whiskies, although that alone is liable to
produce a peculiarly violent and injurious form of intoxication. We have
every reason to believe that drugs still more hurtful are added by some dealers
in cheap sham Whisky, and we have recently been informed that what is
called " purified naphtha," or " spirit of methyl," is among the number.
This " spirit " purified to any extent short of potability, is admitted free of
duty ; and, when not potable by itself, it may still come into play as a
flavouring agent for a large bulk of silent spirit. The duty free import of
spirit of methyl, in 1875, rose to about 1000 gallons over the average. It
may possibly be applied to some harmless or legitimate purpose, for we d>'
not profess to know the secrets of the nefarious trade of Whisky adultera-
tion any more than we know the details of the processes used in coining
bad money. We are content to nail the imitation coin to the counter, and
to call attention to its baseness ; and when we have done this, we leave the
task of further investigation to the police.

There is one part of the question, however, to which we have already
made slight reference, and which requires further attention. We mean
the alleged employment of Hamburgh Sherry as an ingredient of sham
Whisky. A writer, who signed himself "Se Defendendo" denied, in the
Times paper, the truth of this allegation. He appeared to be unconscious
of a certain element of humour in the statement that the Hamburgh Sherry
which went to Ireland was fortified with silent spirit and returned as
Whisky, and hence he is, we suppose, a Scotchman, into whose head, as
Sidney Smith once declared, a joke can only be made to enter by a surgical
operation. It must be admitted that this particular form of " blending "
cannot be done in the Custom House, but only in private warehouses
and with duty-paid materials. Mr. Keene, of the London Custom
House, pointed out in the Times, in reply to " Se Defendendo," that
100 gallons of silent spirit at 25 O.P., and at 125. 6d. per gallon duty,
mixed with an equal quantity of Hamburgh Sherry at 42 U.P., and at

Whisky Frauds.

25. 6d. per gallon duty, would give 200 gallons of a mixture 16 or 17 U.P,,
the strength at which bottled Whisky is usually sold, and at 75. 6<f.
per gallon duty. This would leave a gain of io%d. a gallon in duty r
towards advertising and similar expenses. We have been favoured with.
a copy of a letter on this subject which was addressed to the Chancellor o
the Exchequer by an eminent London wine merchant some years ago, at
a time when the wine duties were under discussion. The writer referred
to the notorious use of Hamburgh Sherry as a diluting agent in the
manufacture of spurious Whisky, and showed that the dealer obtained a
profit of 7/. is. 6d. per butt by buying his spirit in this form. The-
butt of 108 gallons of Hamburgh, containing 45 gallons of proof spirit,.
would cost gl. to purchase, and i$l. los. for duty; so that the purchaser
would get 45 gallons of duty-paid proof spirit for 22^. ios., or at los. a
gallon, without reckoning anything for the 63 gallons of water, con-
taining sugar, flavouring and colouring matters. Now 45 gallons of
silent proof spirit in any other form would cost los. 2d. per gallon duty,,
and 35. per gallon to purchase, in all 29!. 12s. 6d., or jl. 123. 6d. more-
than the equivalent quantity of spirit bought as Hamburgh " Sherry."
The 63 gallons of flavoured and coloured water, mixed with the latter,,
would have their value for, as Mr. Keene has shown, the blend of equal
parts of Hamburgh Sherry and of 25 O.P. silent spirit gives a mixture-
of the precise strength at which Whisky is commonly sold. As we have-
said already, the use of Hamburgh Sherry for the purpose indicated:
is notorious, and those who deny it would deny the presence of the sun
at noonday. Our readers are well aware, of course, that this so-called,
sherry is derived from sources which are wholly independent of the grape;,
and that it is no more wine than it is Whisky.

We come next to the chemical part of the business, and on this the
Medical Examiner has struck the key-note of a much-needed warning. As
applied to the analysis of food, drink, and adulterations, the chemistry of"
the present day is utterly untrustworthy. When the Adulteration Act
required the appointment of district analysis, it was impossible to find a
sufficient number of competent men, because there had been no previous.
demand to create an adequate supply. There were a few scientific chemists>
working in their laboratories at genuine research ; and, besides these, trade-
puffery had found employment for a few men whose names were constantly
and conspicuously advertised, and whose apparent business it was to
discover nothing but excellence in the articles sold by their employers..
The art of really careful and scrutinizing analysis of complex organic
compounds, such as bread and wine, was in its infancy ; and as soon as:
prosecutions caused the results of so-called " analysis " to be questioned,
these results broke down in every direction. Sources of error which had
previously been unsuspected were constantly cropping up ; and the rogues
who were engaged in profitable adulteration employed chemists of their
own, expressly to find out means by which analysis might be baffled. At
almost every hearing under the Adulteration Act we have had conflicting-
evidence. Chemist A has lately sworn that a given sample of unctuous
substance contained not a particle of genuine butter; while chemist B
swore as stoutly that it was all genuine butter, and contained nothing else.

Whisky Frauds.

No two analysts are agreed as to the means by which the quantity of alum
contained in bread may be determined. Professor Frankland has devised a
laborious method of water analysis, and Professor Wanklyn says of it that
the margin of probable error is greater than the absolute quantities of
impurities to be looked for. It is possible that these doubts and perplexities
may be removed hereafter, but at present they render the art of food
analysis one which has very little value to the community, and which
.affords very little protection to the consumer.

We have spoken hitherto of the analysis of stable substances, such as
bread, butter, and water ; but the analysis of a solution of volatile oils and
Aethers in alcohol is almost impossible. It is like trying to fix sunbeams.
The oils and ethers are, in their very natures, changeful and volatile. In
.genuine Whisky they have been developed by a gradual process of change,
and they are liable to be destroyed or to be broken up into new combinations
by the very processes which are employed to detect them. More than
this, in all subtle organic compounds, the same elements may be put
together in the same quantities, but with a difference of internal arrange-
ment which totally alters the character of the result. There is no chemist
living who could distinguish the poison of a rattlesnake from that of a wasp,
although the existence of a very real difference needs no demonstration.

There are, however, three analysis who never make mistakes, and these
are the humgn stomach, the human blood, and the human brain. The
human blood distinguishes the poison of the rattlesnake from that of the
Avasp with unerring accuracy ; and it finds out other poisons also, such as
that of fever, of which the chemist can give no account. In the same way
the consumer may often find out spurious whisky. The genuine spirit,
properly matured, and taken in moderation, produces an exhilaration which
is followed by no regrets, by no loss of appetite or disturbance of digestion,
by no discomfort of the palate, and by no aching of the head. Even when
taken to excess it never produces the violent or maniacal intoxication of
fusel oil. Every one must have experienced that the toddy of one house is
salutary, and that of another pernicious, even though the latter, being less
pleasant, is drunk in smaller quantity. The explanation is not far to seek,
and is that the former is made from genuine Whisky, the latter from a
spurious compound. Even if chemistry could unravel all the ethers of
genuine Whisky, and could form artificially something which seemed
precisely to resemble it, there can be no doubt that the artificial spirit would
be inferior to the genuine, just as no artificial mineral water has ever
possessed the full qualities of that of which it was an imitation.

Before we leave the chemists to 4 their own devices, we must call
attention to the habitual misuse of a word which has suffered greatly
at their hands, and which has served, more, perhaps, than any other,
to mislead the public. That word is "purity." We are told that every-
thing is " pure," from plastered sherry to farinaceous food ; and we once
saw on a hand-barrow a placard which announced " pure ginger-beer."
.Now " pure," in its chemical sense, means unmixed, or, at all events,
containing no foreign ingredient, and it cannot be applied with propriety
to any compound of a complex nature unless that compound is itself
perfectly definite and invariable, and unless all the ingredients proper to

Whisky Frauds.

it are present, and are present in their proper quantities and proportions.
In speaking of wines and spirits the word "pure" is nonsense, and should
be replaced by " genuine." There is no standard of " purity," because
there is no standard of composition the genuine liquids not only differing
somewhat from year to year, according to differences in the qualities
of the fruit or grain from which they are made, but also undergoing
spontaneous progressive changes with the lapse of time. Of course
Whisky would be obviously "impure" if it were adulterated with some
totally foreign ingredient. Silent spirit, on the other hand, may reasonably
be called " pure," but then it is not pure Whisky, but pure silent spirit,
and it ceases to be in any sense pure when it is flavoured to represent
Whisky. It is no longer pure silent spirit, because the flavouring is an
impurity ; and no amount of flavouring can ever make it into Whisky
at all, any more than a cat can be changed into a dog by cropping
its tail and altering its name. Genuine Whisky, on the other hand, may
in a sense be impure, and may be the better for the impurity. The
flavour and colour which it derives from storage in sherry ' casks are,
strictly speaking, impurities, but they are pleasant to most consumers
and injurious to none. We advise the public, when they buy Whisky,
to shun with especial care the allurements of professing "purity;" but
to spare no pains in their endeavour to secure "genuineness."

A few pages back, when comparing spurious Whisky o counterfeit
coin, we referred to the police; and the reader will naturally ask why it is
that the police are supine. As the Times very fairly stated, there could be
no objection to the public sale of medicated silent spirit under any name
which should express its nature ; but the fraud of which we complain is
twofold, first, that medicated silent spirit should be called Whisky at all
Whisky being something else, which has earned a high reputation ; next,
that the silent spirit should be brought from England or Scotland to Ireland,
only that it may be brought back again as " Irish " Whisky, which it would
not be, even if it were Whisky of some sort. Messrs. Haig, in their letter to
the Times from which we have already quoted conclude by saying that
they will with every confide nee trust their case to the Commissioners of
Inland Revenue, " who are capable of judging what is to be allowed and
what is not." The Commissioners of Inland Revenue were long ago
appealed to, in consequence of our applications to the Government, and they
wrote a letter, or made a report, to the Treasury, which, were it not that
they repudiate judgment in the case, should certainly have been headed by
the well-known motto of the Edinburgh Review, " jftidex damnatur cum
nocens absolvitur." The Commissioners say that it is the " proper function
of a revenue department to see that no regulations in restriction of the
operations of trade are enforced by their officers but such as are imperatively
required for the security of the revenue." Like the Roman Emperor Ves-
pasian, they hold that the tribute-money does not smell of the source from
which it is obtained. They admit, theoretically, that it might be their duty
to interfere if the consequences of non-interference would be prejudicial to
the public health ; but they argue that this condition is not fulfilled in the
case under consideration, because " the silent spirit is a pure and wholesome
liquid ; " and they add the erroneous statement that " it is notorious

Whisky Frauds.

that the Dublin Whisky owes a great part of its peculiar flavour to
the fusel oil which it contains, and from which the silent spirit is nearly
free." It has of late years been a recognized principle that entire ignorance
of everything relating to ships is an essential qualification for the office of
First Lord of the Admiralty ; and, in like manner, the Commissioners of
Inland Revenue have probably thought it a duty to maintain their own
freedom from prejudice by keeping themselves in absolute ignorance of
everything relating to spirits. Had they not followed this course, they
would have known that the very "purity" of the silent spirit, which they
extol, renders it unfit, or at least unacceptable, for drinking ; and hence that
the blending which they call harmless necessitates, as its immediate con-
sequence, the deleterious adulteration by which the flavour of true Whisky
is supposed to be in some degree imitated. They would have known, also,
that fusel oil disappears from true Whisky before it is fit for use, and gives
place to new compounds of a wholesome and pleasant character ; precisely
as the acidity and harshness of green fruit are converted into sweetness and
flavour during the natural process of ripening. They should have spoken,
therefore, not of the fusel oil which it contains, but of that which it once
contained ; and they should also have avoided the further error of saying
that Irish Whisky is added to the Scotch spirit as a colouring agent,
because it is really inconceivable that they do not know that all Whisky, or
for the mattes of that, all spirit, is originally colourless, and hence that the
Irish Whisky has no colour to impart. In their plea that restrictions on
blending are not required in the interests of the revenue there is perhaps
some force ; but these gentlemen undermine their own position when they
admit that they might be called upon to interfere if the public health were at
stake.

It would seem, however, that the best legislative remedy, next to the
total prohibition of blending in bond, would be a provision that to sell one
kind of spirit under the name of another should be punishable as a fraud.
Those who bought Whisky would then get what they asked for ; and those
who had medicated silent spirit to sell would have to find a new name for it,
and to do their best to bring it into favour on its own merits. That such an
undertaking would not be quite hopeless was shown a few years ago, when
a Silent Spirit flavoured with the sweepings of tea warehouses was alleged
to possess certain virtues, and even attained some temporary popularity.
In the meanwhile we have determined to use the opportunity which the
public press has put into our hands, and to endeavour so to instruct con-
sumers that they will at least have some power to protect themselves.

THE

DUBLIN WHISKY

TRADE.

Sir,

THOMAS STREET DISTILLERY,

DUBLIN, January, 1876.

In consequence of representations which
have frequently been addressed to us from abroad,
ive have decided upon supplying the Export
Trade with our Old Whisky

IN CASES OF ONE DOZEN EACH

(containing two gallons), bottled expressly under
our own supervision, in bond, at the prices stated
below.

IVe are, Sir,
Your obedient Servants,

GEO. ROE & CO.

PHICEg IN BOND.

20/- per Case

(containing 12 bottles). | ^ '

A ! O j

3k 16/- per Case

(containing 12 bottles).

F. O. B. at Dublin.
In London and Liverpool I/- per Case more.

MESSRS. ROE beg to inform shipping firms that their old and very
old Whiskies, in Butts, Hogsheads, and Quarter Casks, can be obtained
from the Wholesale Wine and Spirit Merchants, as well as from Dublin
direct.

Quotations, c., can be had on application as above ; or to

MR. E. J. FIGGIS,

Commercial Buildings, Dublin.

Feb., 1877.

DUBLIN WHISKY.

Marrowbone Lane Distillery, Dublin.
ILLIAM JAMESON & CO. beg to state that they bottle their

OLD WHISKIES

in Bond for export. These Whiskies are bottled in their own warehouse,
under their own supervision, and protected by their TRADE MARK

on Cork, Capsule, and Label. They are offered free on board at Dublin at
prices quoted below, for a quantity of not less than 100 cases, in cases
containing one dozen or two gallons each. Free on board at London,
Liverpool or Glasgow, i/- per case extra.

(Facsimile of Label.}

BRAND ON CASES.

(White and Gold Label), i8/- per case.

(Green and Gold Label), is/- per case.

THE LIVERPOOL & LONDON & GLOBE
INSURANCE COMPANY.

Trustees of Company.

T. BROCKLEBANK, Esq., J. HUBBACK, Esq., J. A. TOBIN, Esq., Liverpool*

Sir CHARLES NICHOLSON, Bart., D.C.L., WM. MACNAUGHTAN, Esq.,

WM. NICOL, Esq., London.

Trustees of Globe Million Fund.

Sir CHARLES NICHOLSON, Bart., D.C.L., WM. NEWMARCH, Esq., F.R.S.,
WM. NICOL, Esq., JOHN W. ROBINS, Esq., Captain HENRY W. TYLER, R.E,

DIRECTORS-
Liverpool 4Board Office : No. 1, Dale Street.

Chairman JOSEPH HUBBACK, Esq.
Deputy Chairmen H. B. GILMOUR, Esq., and A. CASTELLAIN, Esq~

CHAS. T. BOWRING, Esq.
T. BROCKLEBANK, Esq.

C. J. CORBALLY, Esq.

ALFRED FLETCHER, Esq.
A. P. FLETCHER. Esq.
W. D. HOLT, Esq.

G. H. LOXDALE, Esq.
GEO. MELLY, Esq.
H. H. NICHOLSON, Esq.
WILLIAM PATON, Esq.
JAMES ROME, Esq.
J. A. TOBIN, Esq.

H. LlTTLEDALE, Esq.

Secretary of the Company J. M. DOVE, Esq.

Assistant Secretary ALEX. DUNCAN, Esq.

Auditors PETER S. BOULT, Esq., and I. KITCHEN, Esq.

Medical Referees J. R. VV. VOSE, Esq., M.D., and E. R. BICKERSTETH, Esq.

Bankers BANK OF LIVERPOOL ; UNION BANK OF LONDON.

Solicitors Messrs. LACES, BIRD, NEWTON, and RICHARDSON.

Directors London Board. Offices: Cornhill, and Charing Cross.

Chairman Sir CHARLES NICHOLSON, Bart., D.C.L.

Deputy Chairman W. NICOL, Esq.

W. DENT, Esq.

Hon. EDMUND FRUMMOND.

AUSg^N, Esq.

C. CARR GLYN.

W. MACNAUGHTAN, Esq.
Ross D. MANGLES, Esq.
JAMES MORLEY, Esq.
G. D. WHATMAN, Esq.

Actuary of the Company and Resident Secretary AUG. HENDRIKS, Esq.
Fire Superintendent T. SEPTIMUS MARKS, Es^.

Auditor H. H. CANNAN, Esq.

Medical Referees J. R. BENNETT, Esq., M.D. ; A. ANDERSON, Esq., F.R.C.S,
Consulting Surgeon Sir JAMES PAGET, Bart.

Bankers.
THE LONDON AND COUNTY BANK f Messrs. GLYN, MILLS, CURRIE, & Co,

Solicitors Messrs. PALMER, BULL, and FRY.
Surveyors E. N. CLIFTON, Esq., and WM. THOMPSON, Esq.

At the ANNUAL MEETING, held Feb. 23rd, 1876, the
Report of the Directors for the year 1875 showed that:
The Fire Premiums were ,1,040,568 '< \ The Life Premiums were . .255,259

The Invested Funds - 5,168,210.

Feb., 1877.

NORTH BRITISH AND MERCANTILE
INSURANCE COMPANY.

ESTABLISHED IN 1809.

Incorporated by Royal Charter & Special Acts of Parliament.

CAPITAL TWO MILLIONS.

Accumulated Life Funds 2,773,602.

Fire Reserve Fund < 1,012,046.

DIRECTORS-

Chairman, JOHN WHITE CATER, ^^'Deputy-Chairman CHARLES MoRRisoN,Esq.

RICHARD BARING, Esq.
RICHARD BRANDT, Esq.
A. H. CAMPBELL, Esq.

Rt. Hon. LORDL,AWRENCE,G.C.B., C.S.I.
Hon. HUGH M'CULLOCH.
JUNIUS S. MORGAN, Esq.

EDWARD COHEN, Esq. i GEORGE GARDEN NICOL, Esq.

JOHN FLEMING, Esq., C.S.I. ! Baron JOHN H. W. SCHRODER,

P. DU PRE GRENFELL, Esq. GEORGE YOUNG, Esq.

Manager of Fire Department. G. H. BURNETT.

Manager of Life Department. HENRY COCKBURN.

Secretary. F. W. LANCE.

Medical Officers.
-A. H. HASSALL, M.D. ; R. C. CREAM, M.D.; HERMANN WEBER, M.D.

Solicitor \i W. R. DRAKE. | General Manager. DAVID SMITH, F.R.S.E.

LIFE*DEPARTMENT.

THE PRINCIPLES on which this Company was founded, and on which
it continues to act, combine the system of Mutual Assurance with the safety
of a large Protecting Capital and Accumulated Funds, and thus afford all the
/facilities and advantages which can prudently be Offered by any Life Assurance
Office. Under these principles the business of the Company continues rapidly
to increase.

NINETY PER CENT, of the WHOLE PROFITS is divided among
the Assurers on the Participating Scale.

THE PROFITS are divided every five years.

POLICIES INDISPUTABLE after five years.

ANNUITIES of all kinds are granted, and the Rates fixed on the most
favourable terms.

FIRE DEPARTMENT.

PROPERTY OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, at Home and Abroad,
Insured at the most favourable Rates.

The Net Premiums for 1875 amounted to ^860,392.

Prospectuses and every information can be obtained at the

CHIEF OFFICES:

Tr>xmrvxr J^r, THREADNEEDLE STREET, E.G.

J (WEST-END OFFICE : 8, WATERLOO PLACE, S.W.
EDINBURGH : 64, PRINCES STREET.