LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 Class 
 
A Knight Templar's Pilgrimage 
 
 TO THE 
 
 HOLY LAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 THOMAS W. WILSON, 
 
 EUREKA, CALIF. 
 
 PRINTED BY 
 
 H. S. CROCKER COMPANY, 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. 
 
, 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 To my two daughters, who taught me many beautiful 
 truths; whose words have strengthened and encouraged 
 me to live more true to my God, my fellowmen and 
 myself; who saw good when others looked for evil; who 
 never gave me a heartache. 
 
 Copyright, 1908, by 
 
 THOMAS W. WILSON 
 
 226165 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This book has been written for a purpose, but it has 
 not been written at the suggestion of any one or under 
 the direction of any one. 
 
 It is the outgrowth of my desire to bring before the 
 public what the power of prayer is and what it means 
 to them that persist. Jesus said, "Pray without ceasing." 
 Reader, you will see that all I speak of, has been accom- 
 plished by prayer, and prayer today rules nations, states, 
 cities and man. By prayer you can accomplish anything 
 that is right. Prayer is desire. 
 
 I use this form realizing that the world today is given 
 to reading fiction, and a book of that character is fre- 
 quently read when a more profound work is neglected. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PALESTINE. 
 
 PALESTINE, or the Holy Land (take a Bible in one 
 hand and pencil and note book in the other), extends 
 from the southern shore of the Dead Sea in the south, 
 to the northern slope of Mt. Hermon in the north, viz., from 
 latitude 31 10' to 33 20' north, which is almost identical 
 with the biblical definition of the limits of the land of 
 Israel as extending "From Dan to Beersheba." From 
 the coast, Palestine extends eastward to the Mountains 
 of Moab and Giliad, beyond the Dead Sea and the River 
 Jordan, viz., from longitude 34 30' to 36 east. It is 
 bounded on the north by the southernmost spurs of the 
 two mountain ranges of the Lebanon and the Anti Libanus 
 and by Mt. Hermon ; on the east by the Arabian Desert ; 
 on the south by Arabia Poetrea; and on the west by the 
 Mediterranean Sea. Its length from North to South is 
 about 140 miles ; its average breadth about 80 miles ; and 
 its area nearly 10.000 square miles. 
 
 The name "Palestine" occurs in the Bible in the 
 following passages: Exodus 15:14; Isaiah 14: 29 to 31. 
 The most ancient name of the country, however, is 
 Canaan, similar to that of the fourth son of Ham and 
 grandson of Noah. Palestine was divided into four 
 
 11 
 
provinces: Galilee, Samaria, Judea and Perea, which 
 last included all the country of Gilead and Moab east 
 of the Jordan and Dead Sea. 
 
 The country is very mountainous. The valley of the 
 Jordan is much lower than the Mediterranean, and the 
 climate varies greatly, some districts being very cold and 
 others very hot. The soil varies as much as the tempera- 
 ture, some parts, such as Hebron and the Plain of Sharon 
 and Esdraelon, being extraordinarily fertile, while in 
 other districts there are rocks, sand and gravel. Pales- 
 tine is now and has been, for many centuries, under the 
 dominion of the Sultan of Turkey. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PAET I. 
 
 Chapter Page 
 
 I. ON THE WAY 21 
 
 The author's desire The opening Knight Templar's 
 excursion Leaves home San Francisco visits Wash- 
 ington, D. C. Kindness of Senator Flint receives 
 passports Arctic weather in New York The Mystic 
 Tie Reaches Madeira Sunshine and flowers Funchal 
 the capital Tomb of Columbus Property rights of 
 women Arrives at Cadiz Historic interests Seville 
 and Bull fights Gibraltar a fortress and a prison 
 Algiers Isle of Malta "The Eose of the Mediter- 
 ranean" Palace of the Grand Masters of the Order of 
 St. John Athens and Mars Hill Ancient Troy and 
 Constantinople Mohammedan customs and the Temple 
 of Diana. 
 
 II. CANA AND GALILEE 35 
 
 Mt. Carmel Elijah's triumph Plains of Esdraelon 
 City of Nazareth Home of Mary and Joseph View 
 of Palestine Interviews Nazarene boy Picnic on shore 
 of Galilee Sings "Sweet Galilee "Three nights at 
 Nazareth The Author's vision Russian Pilgrims 
 Cana Crusader's battlefield the Mount of the Beati- 
 tudes Mount of the Transfiguration Miracle of the 
 loaves and fishes Talks with "friends" Bethsaida 
 the Accursed Capernaum Tiberias, King Herod's 
 home Bethel Jacob 's dream. 
 
 III. JOPPA TO JERUSALEM 49 
 
 A message from home Dangerous landing at Joppa 
 
Chapter Page 
 
 III. JOPPA TO JEEUSALEM (Continued). 
 
 House of Simon the Tanner where Peter had his vision 
 of Universal Brotherhood Tower top and view of 
 Lebanon forests Jonah and the whale Markets of 
 Joppa Turks loading wheat Churches and relics 
 House of Tabitha or Dorcas Follows the Crusader's 
 road Lydda Field where Samson caught the foxes 
 Tabatha's tomb Eamleh and Arimathea-Euins of Tell- 
 el-Gayer the dower of Solomon's wife Valley of 
 Ajalon where Joshua commanded the sun and moon to 
 stand still Latroon the burial place of the penitent 
 thief Kirjath Jearim, where the Ark of the Covenant 
 rested Kasim, the burial place of John the Baptist 
 Emmaus, where Jesus walked with his disciples Brook 
 where David got his pebbles Description of the con- 
 flict between David and Goliath. 
 
 IV. THE HOLY CITY 62 
 
 ' ' Jerusalem My Happy Home ' ' On holy ground 
 Ancient history Streets of Jerusalem City should be 
 studied with Bible in hand Joppa Gate David's Street 
 Markets and bazaars Jews and synagogues Charity 
 of wealthy Jews Church of Holy Sepulchre House 
 where Jesus was judged Dome of the Eock The Eock 
 Abraham offered sacrifice Where Ark of the Covenant 
 was buried Biblical mention of Jews Past and future 
 of Jerusalem Circumcision of the heart Place of the 
 Crucifixion "The Place of the Skull" He is risen 
 Grotto of Jeremiah Tombs of the Prophets Prison of 
 Jesus Solomon's quarries Masonry instituted here 
 Place where Stephen was stoned Brook of Kedron 
 Tomb of the Virgin Garden of Gethsemane Mosque 
 of Omar Blood of Sacrifice Site of Solomon's Tem- 
 ple Wailing place of the Jews Damascus Gate Place 
 where Paul was rescued from the mob View of Kedron 
 and Olivet Stables of Solomon Twenty-three sieges of 
 
 14 
 
Chapter Page 
 
 IV. THE HOLY CITY (Continued). 
 
 Jerusalem "War of Peace" The upper room Stone 
 of Unction Chapel of the parted Eaiment Crowned 
 with thorns Center of the earth Chapel of Saint 
 Helena The True cross The scape goat Pool of 
 Bethsaida Mary's Well Pool of Gihon Myth of the 
 dragon Upper pool of Siloam Lower pool of Siloam 
 Aska Mosque ' ' Leaf of Paradise ' ' Walls of the city 
 The steel wire The Mount of Evil Counsel Valley of 
 Hinnon Tombs Caiaphas ' house. 
 
 V. MT. OF OLIVES AND BETHLEHEM 82 
 
 Mt. of Olives View of Jordan Valley Bethpage Stone 
 where Jesus mounted the ass Tracks in the stone 
 Fig trees in Palestine Jewish almhouses Home of Ger- 
 man Knight Templars Valley of Pahhaim where David 
 fought the Philistines The going in the mulberry trees 
 Valley of the Giants Well of the Magi View of the 
 mountains of Moab and the Dead Sea Gilol The field 
 of peas David's Well Bethlehem markets Industries 
 and schools Home of Euth Here David was anointed 
 King The women's Grotto A drop of milk Field of 
 the Shepherds Ain Karin House of Zaccharias 
 Church of John the Baptist Valley of Koses Gaza the 
 city from which Samson stole the gates. 
 
 VI. JOEDAN AND JEEICHO 89 
 
 "On Jordan's Stormy Banks" A hard trip Bethany 
 Home of Lazarus Spring of the Apostles Brook 
 Cherith Refuge of Elijah Cave of Elijah Valley of 
 Achor "The accursed thing" Inn of the Good Samar- 
 itan Elijah's spring Healed of Salt The Bible a 
 defense Jericho Nebo's lonely mountain Mt. Pisgah 
 The Valley of Jericho The old and modern cities 
 Home of Zaccheus The sycamore Eiver Jordan 
 Elijah and Elisha Gilgal Nebby Moussa Moslem 
 Eastern festival Lot 's wife "Baksish, Baksish." 
 15 
 
Chapter . Page 
 
 VII. THE WILDERNESS OF JUDEA 101 
 
 Mountains and cliffs Caves of the hermits Greek con- 
 vent Chapel of the Temptation a hard climb Moses 
 at Mount Pisgah The prophesy unfulfilled. 
 
 VIII. WHO AEE THE BEDOUINS 104 
 
 The Arabs Joseph sold to Ishmaelites Queen Sheba's 
 lineage Descendants of Abraham Havilah to Shur 
 
 A nation of tent-dwellers Mother Hagar The Promise 
 Pride of the Bedouin The unconcjuered Unchanged 
 by years the camel the burden-bearer. 
 The Bible: Its use and study. 
 
 IX. THE TWO CREATIONS... . 110 
 
/ 
 
 PAET II. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 I. BIEDS OF PASSAGE. 
 II. A CLOSING WOED. 
 
List of Illustrations, 
 
 I. The AUTHOR. 
 
 II. JESUS. 
 
 III. GALILEE. 
 
 IV. JOPPA. 
 
 V. TEMPLE AREA IN JERUSALEM. 
 
 VI. THE WAILING PLACE. 
 
 VII. GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 
 
 VIII. MT. OF OLIVES. 
 
 IX. GOOD SAMARITAN INN. 
 
 X. RIVER OF JORDAN. 
 
JESUS. 
 
A Knight Templar's Pilgrimage. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ON THE WAY. 
 
 There are three kinds of pilgrims: First, those who 
 go in a reverential attitude, to see the native land of our 
 Saviour, to traverse his walks up and down the land of 
 Palestine and to gain inspiration from its associations. 
 
 Second, those who go for educational purposes only, 
 who see in that noted country only an important part of 
 the world's history centers, and receive only the knowl- 
 edge and polish which comes from extended travels. 
 
 And third, the fault-finders and kickers who are in- 
 capable of accepting existing conditions, complain at 
 every petty inconvenience and spoil the pleasures of their 
 companions. 
 
 I was a pilgrim of the first class. A journey in the 
 Holy Lands had been my cherished dream for years, and 
 it came, as every other good thing has come into my life, 
 in fulfillment of an intense desire. 
 
 When the Knight Templar's Pilgrimage was adver- 
 tised to leave New York, I realized that the way had 
 been opened for me, and I immediately made my prepara- 
 
 : ?*'-: 
 
tions to take my long-desired journey. I left Eureka, 
 Humboldt County, California, January 13th, on the 
 Steamer Geo. W. Elder, arriving at San Francisco the 
 next day. I found in San Francisco five Knight Tem- 
 plars who were on the same journey, and we were travel- 
 ing companions to Washington, D. C., where we were to 
 secure traveling passports from the State Department. 
 
 At San Francisco I fell in with a fellow-traveler whom 
 I will call ''friend" as I do not think he would like for 
 me to give his name. We left San Francisco January 20, 
 1908, over the Sunset Route. To give you some idea of 
 California in winter, I will say you may sit upon almost 
 any veranda in California and lift your eyes from the 
 brilliant green ornamental trees, shrubs, fruit and flowers. 
 Think of Californians leaving such a climate for the snow- 
 clad mountains of the east! Our route led us through 
 Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and Georgia where we saw 
 neither flowers nor fruit. I said to my friend, "How is 
 this for the Sunny South no flowers?" "Oh, it is too 
 cold here," he replied. "See the negroes with their over- 
 coats and gloves on, standing about the bon-fires. How 
 could you expect to have flowers?" 
 
 When we got to Washington, D. C., the temperature 
 was below zero and the wind was blowing at the rate of 
 fifty miles an hour. We had to walk three blocks to the 
 hotel, and had all we could do to make it, as the frost 
 was something new to our lungs. State Senator Rolley 
 of Humboldt had given me letters of introduction to the 
 California United States Senators Perkins and Flint 
 
and shortly after my arrival in Washington, I went up 
 to the Capitol and sent my letters -and cards to those 
 gentlemen in the Senate Chamber. In a very short time 
 the messenger returned and asked me to follow him in. 
 It was recess, and Senators were standing about in groups 
 talking. As I neared one group, Senator Flint came 
 briskly forward and shook my hand most heartily, "Mr. 
 Wilson, I should like to take this trip away from you 
 and have it myself, ' ' and went on to express his approval 
 of my contemplated journey. Quite different was Sen- 
 ator Perkin's remark as he simply took my hand, "I do 
 not see what any one wants to go wandering over the 
 Holy Lands when he has such a grand country at home," 
 and turned indifferently away. Senator Flint was kind- 
 ness itself. He took me to Secretary Root who supplied 
 me with passports and letters to our consuls in the 
 different countries. These were very helpful to me, 
 especially those to Consul Harris at Jerusalem, who gave 
 me much information and many advantages which I could 
 not otherwise have obtained. Harris found out that I was 
 an old soldier from Iowa, his native state, and we were 
 comrades at once. 
 
 During my four day's stay in Washington, Senator 
 Flint showed me many courtesies. He went with me to 
 the Library Building and the Patent Office, and intro- 
 duced me to several of the cabinet officials, and, the morn- 
 ing of the day I was to leave, had arranged for me to 
 meet President Roosevelt, but unfortunately the intense 
 cold had brought on me a profuse bleeding of the nose 
 
 23 
 
and mouth, and I was obliged to forego that pleasure. I 
 was given the best of treatment in Washington, but my 
 friend said any place but Washington for him. 
 
 After a stay of four days in Washington, we left over 
 the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad for New York City, where 
 it was colder still. On landing in New York my friend 
 and I separated for our five days stay there, and did not 
 see each other again until we embarked on the Steamer 
 Arabic, 16,000 tons, of the White Star Line, specially 
 chartered for the Pilgrimage to the Mediterranean and 
 the Holy Land. I will say nothing of New York City 
 except high winds prevailed and it was very, very cold. 
 My friend said that New York and the "other place" 
 was a great voyage apart. I said that probably the rea- 
 son so many lived here was to give them time to reflect 
 and do better. 
 
 "I believe all you think about is something good," my 
 friend said. 
 
 "It is better to think of something good than to think 
 evil," I answered. "I would rather think of a good beef- 
 steak than a bad action." 
 
 The Arabic sailed 8 a. m. February 6, 1908, from 
 White Star Line Pier, foot of West Eleventh Street, New 
 York. The Arabic is one of the largest steamers in the 
 world. The service of the White Star Line is unsur- 
 passed. An excellent band of trained musicians played 
 daily during lunch and dinner, also on deck and when 
 leaving and arriving in port. 
 
 24 
 
The company on board was a very congenial one, 
 made up of Knight Templars and their families, and a 
 few others. The managers of the excursion made good 
 every promise in the way of traveling accommodations 
 on land and sea. The officers and crew of the Arabic 
 were as good as ever manned a vessel. The fittings of the 
 vessel are palatial, and the service unexcelled. The 
 passengers soon became acquainted, the charm of the 
 " mystic tie" removing all feelings of strangeness, and 
 the utmost good feeling pervaded the company. 
 
 From New York, with its icy wintry blasts, snow and 
 slush, we steamed directly across the South Atlantic 
 through mild latitudes to Madeira, an island of sunshine 
 and flowers, where perenial verdure greets the eye. We 
 were eight days crossing the ocean. At Madeira a ball 
 was given in our honor at the fine Casino which my friend 
 thought was an elegant affair. 
 
 Funchal, the capital where we landed, lies on an abrupt 
 slope with mountain peaks, 5,000 feet high, towering in 
 the background. Owing to the steep roads, the vehicles 
 consist of sleds drawn by oxen. Nevertheless, the Island 
 is one of the most picturesque spots on the globe. The 
 highest point on the island is 6,100 feet high, with snow 
 caps. There are waterfalls from 500 to 1,000 feet high. 
 Here it seemed like home. The flowers, fruits and the 
 climate all took me back to good old California. 
 
 Columbus is identified with the early history of 
 Madeira, for on seeing Menina Perestrello at a school in 
 Portugal, he followed her to her island home and mar- 
 
 25 
 
ried her in 1473. He lived in Porto Santo and afterwards 
 in Funchal. His father-in-law was a mariner, and 
 Columbus got his first taste for a sea-faring life from 
 studying his charts. It is said in 1486, a wrecked vessel 
 drifted to Funchal and soon after its arrival all on board 
 died from exhaustion and starvation. The pilot gave to 
 Columbus his charts, and from these he obtained his first 
 ideas of the existence of unknown lands. At Seville, 
 Spain, is a fine tomb of Columbus, The Biblioteca Colum- 
 bina, built in the northeast corner of the Cathedral, open 
 from ten to three, was established by Fernando Colon 
 (Columbus), the son of the great discoverer, who spent 
 his wealth collecting books of his period. It contains 
 30,000 volumes and some of them relate to the discovery 
 of America. In this library is the Bible of Alfonso the 
 Learned. 
 
 Said my friend, "I would never marry any of the 
 island women because of their customs in property inter- 
 ests. At marriage the man vests one-half of his property 
 in his wife, and she vests one-half of hers in him, and 
 neither can dispose of it without the consent of the other." 
 
 "Why," said I, "that is just. I cannot see anything 
 wrong about that. I wish it were so in America." 
 
 "There it is again," he said, "my views are always 
 wrong. ' ' 
 
 The tourist will get very few ideas in Madeira about 
 the latest fashions. This is the home of English walnuts, 
 oranges, lemons, bananas, figs, etc. My friend remarked 
 that the largest industry is beggars (God loves a cheerful 
 
giver). Divers hold themselves ready in small boats to 
 dive for any coin which may be thrown into the water, 
 which they never miss getting before it sinks ten feet 
 down. 
 
 The next stopping place was Cadiz, Spain. We entered 
 the bay of Cadiz, which is a deep inlet forming an inner 
 and outer bay, and came to the City of Cadiz situated on 
 the extremity of a long narrow isthmus of the island of 
 Leon. The town which is surrounded by walls, forms 
 nearly a square, each side being about a mile and a half 
 in length. The houses are of white stone and as one 
 approaches from the sea it presents a bright and clean 
 appearance. The streets are narrow but well lighted, 
 and flowers bloom everywhere, clothing ruins and aged 
 walls with verdure. There are some pleasant public 
 streets, the finest being the Alameda. There are not 
 many fine public buildings. The cathedrals are poor 
 specimens of architecture, and contain little of interest 
 save in one there are two paintings by Murillo, old and 
 dingy but of great value. 
 
 The emancipation of the South American colonies was 
 the death-knell of commerce in Cadiz, although the estab- 
 lishment of new lines of steamers are benefitting the old 
 city. 
 
 This is one of the most ancient cities of Europe, having 
 been built by the Phoenicians under the name of Gaddir. 
 three hundred and fifty years before the founding of 
 Rome, and has been in the possession of many different 
 peoples the Carthegenians, Romans, Goths and Moors, 
 
 27 
 
and was taken by the Spaniards in 1262. Three hundred 
 years later Sir Francis Drake destroyed the Spanish fleet 
 in the bay. Nine years later Lord Essex burned and 
 pillaged the city. It has been besieged in turn by France, 
 England and Spain, seven different times since the ravage 
 by Lord Essex. 
 
 The finest Spanish cities are Cadiz and Seville. Seville 
 is 95 miles distant by railroad which runs through a most 
 fertile and beautiful country. 
 
 ''What," said my friend, "is your opinion of Seville? 
 One thing I don't like is so many dirty beggars. I feel 
 like banishing every one. They are a nuisance. They 
 expect money at every turn, and the churches are all 
 beggars. I feel like I never want to see a church again. 
 What I like is the bull fights and other games. Bull 
 fighting is so interesting." 
 
 "In regard to beggars, they are professional. They 
 make a business of it. You don't need to give to them, 
 nor let them bother you. As for the churches, they do 
 the same in America. They cannot run them without 
 money, and 'the laborer is worthy of his hire.' As for 
 bull rings and other games, bull fighting seems to be a 
 Spanish institution. It is said a single bull fighter in the 
 season of 1894 killed no less than 230 animals. The bull 
 ring in Seville is an imposing building with room for 
 15,000 spectators. It is a cruel and brutalizing sport, and 
 has had much to do with deading the mental and moral 
 life of the nation. To show the extent to which this 
 national pastime is carried, there are not less than 275 
 
 28 
 
buildings in Spain for this purpose. What do you think 
 was the downfall of Spain?" 
 
 "I guess you are about right this time," he replied. 
 
 "Now we want to be careful. We are treading on 
 Holy ground." 
 
 "How is this?" 
 
 Read Romans 15: 29. Paul says, "I shall come in the 
 fullness of the blessing of the gospel of Christ." 
 
 Next we reached Gibraltar. It is as solid as the Rock 
 of Gibraltar. It is a fortress, a colony and a prison. The 
 highest point is 1,400 feet. The rock is honeycombed with 
 tunnels from which the gunners can pour out deadly fire. 
 Two, one-hundred-ton guns, thirty-two feet long, throw 
 a shot of two thousand pounds a distance of eight miles. 
 
 "Friend," said I, "how do you like Gibraltar?" 
 
 "Don't like it." 
 
 "Why? If the Americans owned it, it would be all 
 right." 
 
 Now we are entering the mighty Sea that separates 
 and washes three continents, stopping at Algiers. Here 
 we see a population of Arabs, Moors, Berbers, Turks, 
 Bedouins, Negroes and Maltese. There were heavily laden 
 caravans from the great African desert, snake charmers, 
 and an endless variety of wonders. 
 
 "My friend," said I, "What say you of Algiers?" 
 
 "Well," he replied, "My first impression is that they 
 are certainly a cut-throat looking gang. If they are 
 descendants of pirates, they know nothing about manag- 
 ing a boat. They are a stupid and incompetent set of 
 
 29 
 
men. The most striking object in the city is the hideous 
 way the women have of hiding their faces. I can't see if 
 they are good looking or not. And the way the men 
 dress. Just think of it ! When a man is marriageable he 
 wears no stockings, and the married men wear stockings. 
 The married women cover- their faces. I want to get out 
 of this place. " 
 
 "I thought they were all right. They landed us safely 
 in their little boats, and the bay was rough. You know 
 God does not look at the outward appearance. It is the 
 heart that God searches. You put me in mind of a man 
 that kicked at everything. By the way, he was a good 
 musician. He was asked what he would do if he went to 
 heaven, and they asked him to play the piano. He studied 
 a minute and said, 'I kick. I would not play.' ' 
 
 We leave this beautiful place, and steaming along 
 the northern coast of Africa, we next visited the world- 
 renowned Island of Malta, the home of the Knights of 
 Malta, and Paul Bay where^Saint Paul was shipwrecked. 
 (Acts 27.) 
 
 The Island of Malta is an English possession, as is 
 plainly evidenced by the military aspect of its inhabitants, 
 many of whom wear the livery of King Edward. The 
 island is strongly fortified and large companies of artillery 
 and infantry are stationed here. The harbor is of an 
 even depth and the largest vessels may lay alongside the 
 very shore. The island forms an admirable station for 
 sheltering a fleet to command the Mediterranean, and 
 makes it almost as good a fortification as Gibraltar and 
 
 30 
 
far more useful. But what made Malta dear to me and 
 the other Knight Templars, is its historic associations. 
 In Medina, a handsome old town lying inland, is the 
 ancient palace of the Grand Masters of the order of St. 
 John of Jerusalem. In 1530 Emperor Charles V. gave 
 the island in perpetual sovereignty to the knights of this 
 order who spent tremendous amounts of money in raising 
 fortifications and in beautifying the island in every way. 
 The soil was very fertile and every tropical plant will 
 grow. Malta was famed in that olden time for its roses, 
 the island being often called the "Rose of the Mediter- 
 ranean." The knights claimed that the bees made 
 aromatic honey and that the birds were more beautiful 
 than in any other land. The Knights of Malta defended 
 their island against many assaults of the Turks who lost 
 over a hundred thousand men in their sieges and attacks. 
 Though waging an almost perpetual war, the knights held 
 possession until 1798 when overcome by Bonaparte's 
 treachery, and disorganized by internal dissensions, the 
 knights surrendered their noble fortress to the French, 
 but two years later it fell into the hands of the English. 
 The city is rich in relics and objects of interest, repre- 
 senting the changes which have taken place since the 
 Phoenicians colonized the island in the 16th century before 
 Christ. 
 
 ' ' Well, my friend, what say you of Malta ? ' ' 
 "Malta is all right," he said, "and the Knights of 
 Malta are all right too. I think you are one." 
 "Why?" 
 
 31 
 
"Because I saw one take you in his arms and greet 
 you." 
 
 We landed at Phaleron Bay, at Athens, the largest 
 city in Greece. Here is Mars Hill. (Acts 17 : 22.) Athens 
 pleased my friend, who said, 
 
 "Athens is a lively place for fun and to stand around 
 and tell stories, and is given to merry games and play, 
 and has many idlers." 
 
 ' ' Read what Paul said at Athens and you will see what 
 befalls a place like this." (Acts 17:22-23.) 
 
 "I don't think this trip will amount to much to me as 
 you spoil all my fun." 
 
 We left Athens and steamed through the Dardenelles, 
 passing the site of ancient Troy, and across the Sea of 
 Marmora, and arrived at Constantinople. Here we spent 
 three days sight-seeing. When we got through sight- 
 seeing I asked my friend what he thought of Constanti- 
 nople. I will not record what he said as I am afraid I 
 might be tempted to agree with him and I want to look 
 on the bright side of everything. As I often tell my wife, 
 when you go to the apple barrel, always take the best 
 ones and you will have the best till the last. My friend 
 takes the worst one, and in that way he never has a good 
 one. I told him to open wide the windows and let the 
 sunshine in. 
 
 There is one thing in the Mohammedan religion that 
 appealed to me as good, and that is the Muezzin's call to 
 prayer. We had the opportunity to hear the call which 
 is this : "God is great ; God is great ; God is great. I bear 
 
witness that there is no God but God ; I bear witness that 
 there is no God but God. Come to prayer ; come to prayer. 
 Come to salvation; come to salvation. God is great. 
 There is no other God but God. Prayers are better than 
 sleep." As soon as the call is sounded every Turk stops 
 in the streets or in his place of business, and prostrates 
 himself with his face toward Mecca to pray. The writer 
 was fortunate to hear the Muezzin call. The Moslem 
 bible reads like this : * ' The Messiah Jesus, was the son 
 of Mary and Joseph. He was also the ambassador of 
 God. Believe in God and his ambassador, but do not say 
 that God is three, for God is one and cannot have a son. 
 Pray, then, to God alone that is the only way." 
 
 Here we are in Smyrna, the chief city of Asia Minor. 
 
 "This," said my friend, "suits me. It is lively, proud 
 and gay. They dress well and are idle and have games 
 of all kinds." 
 
 * ' See what Revelation 2 : 8 and third chapter says 
 about Smyrna. This city has been destroyed time and 
 again. ' ' 
 
 "I will quit you," says my friend, "as my sayings 
 have no weight with you. I will see you somewhere before 
 the glorious trip ends." 
 
 "My prayer is that you may see things on the bright 
 side and you will live longer and be a bright star to all 
 with whom you come in contact. My prayer is for you 
 to see the Holy Lands aright. Take off your shoes as the 
 next stop is Ephesus. 'I will remove thy candlestick out 
 of its place' Rev. 2:5." 
 
 33 
 
Every word has been fulfilled. Epheans is all in ruins 
 and no one is living there except a few Mohammedan 
 soldiers that guard the old works. See the Temple of 
 Diana. Read Acts 19, and you will see why it is in ruin. 
 Here is the theatre where Paul barely escaped death. 
 Here the traveler can stand and bring to mind the 
 thrilling scene recorded in the 19th chapter of Acts. Here 
 stood Paul for two hours trying to make himself heard 
 against the howling mob. The theatre was the largest 
 in Asia, seating over 30,000 persons. The Temple of 
 Diana was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It 
 was 425 feet long, 225 feet wide, and had 129 columns. 
 Now, you cannot find anything but a hole in the ground, 
 eight feet deep and full of water. The coins of Ephesus 
 have many allusions to the Diana worship. Josephus 
 says the Jews were numerous there. Disciples of John 
 the Baptist were found here after the ascension of Christ 
 Acts 18 : 25 ; 19 : 3. Paul established a church here of 
 which Timothy was the head. It is supposed that St. John 
 the Divine wrote his gospel and epistles here. My friend 
 did not want to say anything about this place. He knew 
 that where the mighty works were done and still rejected, 
 it must fall. Once a great city ; now nothing is left. 
 
 34 
 
GALILEE. 
 
 Galilee circuit district is sometimes called Sea of Chinnereth, Sea of 
 Tiberias and Lake Gennesaret. "And Jesus returned in the 
 Power of the Spirit into Galilee" (Luke 4: 14). 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 CANA AND GALILEE. 
 
 Now we leave for the Holy Land Haffa or Caifa. 
 Our ship dropped anchor in the Bay of Acre and we got 
 our first impressions of the Holy Land, Caifa, and Mt. 
 Carmel. Carmel, which means in Hebrew "garden land," 
 is a famous mountain in Palestine, rising on the south- 
 east to 1,700 feet. The soil is fertile. (Isaiah 33 : 9.) 
 
 We recall the story of Elijah and the Prophets of 
 Baal 1 Kings 18 "Then said Elijah unto the people, 
 'I, even I only remain a prophet of the Lord; but Baal's 
 prophets are four hundred and fifty men. Let them 
 therefor give us two bullocks; and let them choose one 
 bullock for themselves, and cut it in pieces and lay it on 
 the wood, and put no fire under; and I will dress the 
 other bullock and lay it on wood, and put no fire under. 
 And call ye on the name of your gods and I will call on 
 the name of the Lord : and the God that answereth by 
 fire, let him be God.' ' Here prayer was answered and 
 everything I shall speak of was done by prayer. Here we 
 hear Elijah saying, "Hear me, O Lord, hear me, that this 
 people may know that thou art the Lord, God." And 
 Elijah brought the prophets of Baal down to the Brook 
 
 35 
 
Kishon and slew them, and the brook ran red with the 
 blood of the Prophets of Baal. Here is where Elijah said 
 to Ahab, "There is a sound of rain," and Elijah went up 
 to the top of Carmel and cast himself down. Now there 
 had been a drouth for three and one-half years and 
 prayer brought abundance of rain. 
 
 Leaving Mt. Carmel we came to a fountain where 
 Heber's wife slew Sisera by driving a nail through his 
 temple. Then on to the Plain of Esdraelon where Barak 
 and Gideon won their great victories. 
 
 After twenty-four miles of carriage riding through 
 'new and absorbing scenes, we came to the City of Naz- 
 areth, 1,100 feet above sea level. In the time of our Lord 
 it was a small village, but is now a prosperous town. A 
 few old houses remain. (Mat. 2:33; 4:13.) "And he 
 came and dwelt in a city called Nazareth: that it might 
 be fulfilled which was spoken by the prophets, 'He shall 
 be called a Nazarene.' " (Acts 24: 5.) Here is the most 
 harmonious place the writer was ever in. Here you can- 
 not and do not want to think evil. Here they point out 
 to the pilgrim, Joseph and Mary's house. It consists of 
 three rooms hewn out of solid rock. And here we see 
 Joseph's work shop, where we may be sure that our Lord 
 must have spent many an hour of his childhood and 
 youth. Here is the place where the men of Nazareth 
 sought to cast Jesus down headlong over an awful 
 precipice, and here is a large rock 20 feet long, 12 feet 
 wide and 4 feet high which, it is said, our Master and 
 his disciples used as a dining table and on it, Jesus ate 
 
 36 
 
his last meal with them, after his ascension. Here is the 
 synagogue in which Jesus stood up to read the scriptures. 
 Here also is the fountain at the edge of the town which 
 has been its one unfailing source of water supply from 
 time immemorial, and from the mountain which rises 500 
 feet above it, is seen one of the grandest views of Pales- 
 tine; the mountains of Naphtali, the snowy dome of Mt. 
 Hermon, the Highlands of Bashan and Gileod, and the 
 Great Plain of Esdraelon and Jordan, the Dead Sea, Mt. 
 Carmel, and the blue waters of the Mediterranean. Here 
 is the spot where the Lord often came to hold communion 
 with the Father, how to overcome this sinful world and 
 to show us the way ; and here He could look over the land 
 where his labors and sufferings were to be for a sinful 
 race. 
 
 Sunday, March 8, 1908, I was at Nazareth walking 
 down to the fountain. A boy of fourteen years came up 
 to me and said, "You American?" 
 
 "Yes," I answered. 
 
 "I like Americans." 
 
 ' ' That is nice. I am glad you do, my little man. What 
 is your religion?" 
 
 "I am a Christian." 
 
 "What do your Christians believe?" 
 
 "Well, to make a long story short, we believe that we 
 should do what Jesus taught us to do." 
 
 "What would you do if any one was sick?" 
 
 He looked at me for a moment and then said, "The 
 Elders of the Church pray for them." 
 
 37 
 
"Do they get well?" 
 
 "You bet they do." 
 
 "God bless you, my little boy, you have more faith 
 than some Americans have." 
 
 Like a message from home was the bit of verse given 
 below which was picked up from a table in the hotel office 
 at Nazareth. It was printed on cardboard : 
 
 POST-CAKD 
 
 Memories of Galilee 
 
 To be sung by tourists on the Lake of Tiberias 
 
 Each gentle dove, & sighing bough: That makes 
 the eve, so blest to me: Has something far, diviner 
 now: It bears me back, to Galilee. 
 
 Ch. O Galilee! sweet Galilee! Where Jesus loved 
 so much to be: O Galilee! blue Galilee! Come sing 
 thy song again to me. 
 
 Each flowry glen, & mossy dell: Where happy 
 birds, in song agree: Thro' sunny morn, the praises 
 tell: Of sights & sounds, in Galilee. 
 
 And when I read, the thrilling lore: Of Him who 
 walked, upon the sea: I long, oh, how, I long once 
 more: To follow Him, in Galilee. 
 
 Name of tourist 
 
 Date of singing 190 
 
 Printed by A. Ballora, Cana, Syria. 
 
 I stopped three nights in Nazareth. It was a hard 
 thing for me to leave here. Had my family been with me, 
 
 38 
 
I would have stopped here for three years, it is so 
 harmonious. Here is where I got my desire, as I prayed 
 from the time I left home that I might see some sign or 
 token or dream., and I heard a still small voice as plain 
 as I ever heard any one, saying, "Go home. Mind your 
 own business and do right yourself and you will do 
 wonders." What is self? They that have ears to hear, 
 let them hear. I will say that it is a hard demonstration 
 to make, as self sticks out often, but I can make it if I 
 stay by prayer. The Master said, "Pray without ceasing 
 that you do not enter into temptation." My prayer is 
 that I may see the right. 
 
 We left Nazareth and in five miles we came to Cana 
 of Galilee. At the southern end of the town is an ex- 
 cellent fountain of water. Cana was the home of 
 Nathaniel and the place where Jesus wrought his first 
 miracle and demonstrated the power of God and his 
 glory. Here also he received the nobleman from 
 Capernaum whose son was healed by his word. (John 
 4:46.) 
 
 When in Cana, we were driving along the shore of a 
 small lake and stopped to water our horses, and we saw 
 a hundred and fifty Russian pilgrims come down the hill 
 and seat themselves on the rocks about and eat their 
 noonday meal. There were men, women and children in 
 the throng. Their dinner was a crust of dry black bread 
 sodden and dirty. The children were packed in baskets 
 and carried on the backs of donkeys, as were any adults 
 who fell sick or who were unable to walk. A single dirty 
 
 39 
 
garment was worn by the women, and the children wore 
 less than that. All wore rude sandals. 
 
 These pilgrims walked 2000 miles to be at Jerusalem 
 at the Easter time. These were two weeks ahead of 
 time, and during that interval must subsist on the charity 
 of the public. 
 
 Next we came to beautiful bell-shaped Mt. Tabor, 
 1,800 feet above the sea level. The beauties of this moun- 
 tain are extolled in Psalms 89; Jer. 46:18; Judges 8:18; 
 I Sam. 10; 3. 
 
 Then we crossed the great Crusader battlefield of 
 Hattin, and the traditional Mount of Beatitudes and the 
 Mount of Transfiguration. (Mat. 5-6.) This is a beauti- 
 ful mountain, round, and flat on top, near the Sea of 
 Galilee. And here is where our Lord and Master came 
 nigh unto the Sea of Galilee and went up into a mountain 
 and sat down, and great multitudes came there that were 
 lame, blind, dumb and maimed and he healed them, and 
 they glorified the God of Israel. And Jesus said, "I have 
 compassion on the multitude and will not send them away 
 fasting, lest they faint by the way." And the disciples 
 say, " Whence should we have so much bread in the 
 wilderness, to fill so great a multitude." Jesus said, 
 "How many loaves have you?" They said, "Seven, and 
 a few fishes." And he commanded them to sit down on 
 the ground, and he took the seven loaves and the few 
 fishes and gave thanks and they did all eat and were 
 filled and plenty to spare, and they that did eat were four 
 thousand men, besides women and children. And Jesus 
 
 40 
 
returned in the power of the spirit into Galilee. (Luke 
 4:14.) 
 
 Our party picnicked on the shore of Lake Galilee that 
 day, near the City of Capernaum. On leaving the hotel 
 we were rowed across the lake on large boats. The 
 distance was about eight miles. There are twenty rowers 
 to each boat, Turks, who kept time to the movements of 
 their oars by a monotonous "Hoo-Hah, " repeated in 
 sing-song tones. Blue Galilee is rightly named, heavenly, 
 celestial blue, when looking at it from a distance; but 
 directly beneath the eyes, it is so clear that nothing 
 seems to intervene between you and the bottom of the 
 lake. 
 
 When we lunched at noon, at my suggestion we sang 
 "Sweet Galilee" read the eighth chapter of Matthew and 
 repeated the Lord's Prayer in concert. 
 
 In Galilee Jesus began to preach and say, "Repent, for 
 the kingdom of heaven is at hand," and went about all 
 Galilee and healing all manner of sickness and all manner 
 of diseases, and his fame went throughout all Syria and 
 Galilee, Decapolis and Jerusalem, Judea and beyond 
 Jordan. And they brought unto him all sick people that 
 were taken with divers diseases and torments, those pos- 
 sessed with devils and lunatics and those that had the 
 palsy, and he healed all of them. And seeing the multi- 
 tude, he went up into a mountain and taught them, 
 saying, "Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the 
 kingdom of heaven. Blessed are the pure in heart, for 
 they shall see God. And when you pray, do not as other 
 
 41 
 
people do, for they think that they shall be heard for 
 their much talking. Be not ye therefore like unto them, 
 for your Father knoweth what things ye have need of 
 before you ask him; that thou appear not unto men to 
 fast but unto thy Father which is in secret, and thy 
 Father which seeth in secret shall reward thee openly. 
 
 The Sea of Galilee is twelve miles long. The greatest 
 width six and one-half miles, and the maximum depth is 
 157 feet. The water is clear and blue and has the right 
 name ' ' Sweet Galilee. ' ' 
 
 The chief towns of Galilee are Capernaum, Kadesh 
 Bethsaida, Tiberias, Nazareth and Cana, besides many 
 other smaller villages, the ruins of which are scattered 
 over nearly every hill top and hillside. Here was the 
 scene of a greater part of the works and life of Jesus 
 which are the subject of the first three gospels. 
 
 Capernaum is owned by the Catholics by a concession 
 given them by the Sultan. Around one part where ex- 
 cavations are being made and from which some beautiful 
 pillars have been removed, a high, closely barred iron 
 wall keeps out all intruders. 
 
 The old priest, who is in charge there, was greatly 
 angered by one of our party focusing his camera at him 
 and the inclosure. In the Syrian tongue he scolded and 
 denounced. Our guide said that he was forbidding the 
 party to take any pictures, saying it was not allowed. 
 The guide entered into an argument with him and both 
 were rapidly working themselves into a passion when I 
 resolved to apply my rule that "Love conquers every- 
 
 42 
 
thing," and spoke to the priest in German saying, 
 "Brother, we have come here for good." Instantly his 
 countenance changed. He cast one questioning glance 
 at me and then extended his hand between the bars and 
 clasped mine in a friendly grasp. Then he told me that 
 my party might go in but must not take anything away, 
 not as much as the tiniest pebble. I then told the others 
 that those who were willing to abide by that ruling 
 might go in, otherwise they should stay outside. All went 
 in and were shown around the place. On leaving, the 
 priest said to me in a low tone in German, ' ' Stay behind. ' ' 
 I did so, and he took me to his home and showed me many 
 interesting things, and when I left gave me a souvenir 
 of the place, the first that had ever gone out from there, 
 which is one of my most treasured mementos. 
 
 Here I found my friend. He was on his return from 
 Damascus "brim full of Galilee." He said he saw a fish 
 that his guide told him was like the one that Peter took 
 up out of the water with money in its mouth. 
 
 "I hope," he said, "you don't believe that tale; and 
 this is where Jesus walked on the water, and Peter tried 
 it that is another thin story. And they claim they fed 
 five thousand people with a few loaves and two fishes. 
 They must have been big ones. And here is another good 
 one. They tell me, and point out the site of Capernaum, 
 that Jesus said, would sink lower than hell when she is 
 only from eight to ten feet below the surface. The idea ! 
 When the whole country is solid rock. And there is 
 
 Bethsaida they claim they can't find any trace of it, and 
 
 43 
 
that place is a solid rock. I guess I have you up a tree 
 for once." 
 
 "In regard to the money in the fish's mouth, Jesus 
 said, take no thought for what ye shall eat or drink. My 
 heavenly Father knows what ye have need of. He sent 
 out his disciples and told them not to take money nor 
 two coats, and heal the sick, cast out evil and preach the 
 gospel. And when they came back he asked them if they 
 had any need. Nothing whatever. You see our Lord 
 and Master knows what we need and he will supply our 
 wants. But seek first his kingdom and right doing, and 
 put yourself first in union with the infinite and love your 
 neighbor as yourself, then you are keeping his command- 
 ments. He says, to love the Lord your God with all your 
 mind and your neighbor as yourself, is the fulfillment 
 of the Law. I will say here I have seen a good many 
 summers and I have never yet seen an instance of either 
 man or beast that could not be conquered by love. It is* 
 working wonderful things, every day, yes every hour. 
 We are subject to the power of love, and love will cast 
 out all evil and fear. Love is the only command between 
 us and the Christ. He gave us no other but to love one 
 another fervently and truly and if we are filled with 
 love, nothing can hurt us. In regard to Capernaum and 
 Bethsaida, Bethsaida cannot be found not one trace of 
 it. Bethsaida, "House of Fishing" was north of the Sea 
 of Galilee. Here is where the blind man was cured Mark 
 8:22, "He cometh to Bethsaida and they brought him a 
 blind man and besought him to touch him. And he took 
 
 44 
 
the blind man by the hand and led him out of the town. ' ' 
 Here is where he fed the five thousand. (Luke 9 : 10-17.) 
 This is the native place of Peter, Philip and Andrew. 
 And see what Jesus said and how he condemned Beth- 
 saida. "Woe unto thee Bethsaida. If the mighty works 
 which were done in you had been done in Tyre and Sidon, 
 they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and 
 ashes." (Mat. 11:21.) 
 
 Two miles from here is Capernaum. The centurion 
 besought Jesus to heal his servant with the palsy, 
 grievously tormented. Jesus said, "I will come and heal 
 him." (Mat. 8:6-7.) And straightway he went into the 
 synagogue and taught. (Mark 1 : 21-22 ; John 4 : 46 ; John 
 6:17.) "And thou Capernaum which are exalted unto 
 heaven shalt be brought down to hell." (Mat. 11 : 23-24.) 
 
 "Now, friend, you see the whole town is brought low. 
 You say the ground grows. Why don 't that hole fill up 
 too? You see every word Jesus spoke is true, and that is 
 what gave him the title of Messiahship." 
 
 Only eight miles from here is the city of Tiberias. 
 This is the site of the city of Herod Antipas. It has about 
 seven thousand souls, mostly Jews. Here is where Jesus 
 said, "Go and tell that fox." (Luke 13 : 32.) 
 
 It is safe to say that there is no other place on earth 
 where so much of the beautiful life of Jesus was seen as 
 here at Galilee, or where such mighty works were done. 
 Here is where Jesus loved so much to be and where he 
 spent so many happy hours of his earthly life. It is safe 
 to say that here is where Jesus met his disciples after 
 
 45 
 
the resurrection, and it is saft to say that he will meet 
 with us if we put ourselves in union with him. He said 
 he would come and abide with us, and we have this 
 promise if we love one another as he has loved us, "I will 
 love him and will manifest myself to him." Judas said, 
 "How is it that thou wilt manifest thyself unto us and 
 not unto the world." Jesus answered, "If a man loves 
 me, he will keep my words, and my Father will love him 
 and we will come unto him and make our abode with 
 him." I will say here, this is how he will appear to us 
 nowadays, and unto them that look for him, shall he 
 appear the second time without sin. My friend, take 
 courage and cast all your care on him and watch the 
 results. If you have not the mind of Christ, you are 
 none of his. My friend, I will tell you my vision before 
 I close this book. Now faith is the substance of things 
 hoped for, the evidence of things not seen. (Heb. 11.) 
 
 Here my friend and I left Galilee and went back to 
 Haffa seaport. We went through the Plain of Esdraelon 
 by Mt. Tabor. This is a beautiful valley. Here we could 
 see big and little Mt. Hermon, Naptha, the Highlands of 
 Bashan and Gilead, the deep depression of the Jordan 
 Valley, the high mountains of Samaria and Benjamin, 
 Mt. Carmel and the Mediterranean Sea. This is where 
 the three sacred mountains, Tabor, Hermon and Carmel, 
 can be seen at one time. Here our Lord and Master often 
 had communion with the Father. It was quite a task for 
 me to leave here. Everything around me was so harmoni- 
 ous I felt like camping here for a season. I could see 
 
 46 
 
why God selected such a glorious spot for his dear Son 
 to work out the salvation which was for our benefit, and 
 we have the same thing to do sooner or later. 
 
 "Yes," said my friend, "but the road is rough and 
 rugged." 
 
 "But, my friend, here is where Jacob saw his vision 
 and we must go up step by step till we gain the crown." 
 
 "And he dreamed and behold a ladder set up on the 
 earth and the top of it reached to heaven." (G.en. 28.) 
 
 Bethel is a barren, stony ridge, twelve miles north of 
 Jerusalem. Jacob built an altar here. Here is where 
 Jacob seems to have thought only of a local God who 
 lived at Bethel, with whom he was disposed to make a 
 bargain for service on conditions. The beautiful incident 
 of the meeting of Jacob and Rebekah at the well exhibits 
 the pure and simple habits of shepherd life. Laban drove 
 a very hard and shrewd bargain with Jacob, compelling 
 him to serve fourteen years for Rachel and marry Leah 
 besides, but this was repaid by Jacob in sharp practice 
 in making himself rich in much cattle. At the age of 
 one hundred, he returned to Canaan and on the way his 
 name was changed to Israel "God's Soldier." Jacob 
 stayed awhile at Shechem where he buried under a sacred 
 tree the stolen images. At Bethel he built an altar while 
 on the way to Hebron where his father was. His son 
 Benjamin was born, and the mother, Rachel, died and 
 was buried near Bethlehem where a tomb preserves her 
 memory to this day. 
 
 47 
 
Kachel, the youngest daughter of Laban, wife of 
 Jacob, mother of Joseph and Benjamin. The so-called 
 tomb of Eachel is about half a mile from Bethlehem near 
 the Jerusalem road. It will be observed by the traveler 
 to the right, near the place where the road to Bethlehem 
 branches off from the high road which leads to Hebron. 
 The identity of this tomb has not been disputed, for this 
 is the spot which for many hundreds of years was marked 
 by a pyramid of twelve stones for the twelve tribes of 
 Israel. The place is respected almost equally by Jews, 
 Christians and Mohammedans. 
 
 48 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. 
 A message from home : 
 
 When the golden sun is setting, 
 
 In that far, far distant land, 
 And the ocean waves come rippling 
 
 Out o'er the sparkling sand. 
 When the perfume of sweet flowers 
 
 Come wafting through the air, 
 All telling the same sweet story 
 
 That God is everywhere. 
 
 When evening's twilight gathers 
 
 O'er all the land and sea, 
 And your thoughts are free to wander, 
 
 Just give a thought to me. 
 When morning light is breaking, 
 
 And song birds fill the air, 
 I know that you'll rejoice 
 
 That God is everywhere. 
 
 When in Holy Lands you are traveling, 
 
 And God's wondrous work you see, 
 On the banks of the Eiver Jordan, 
 
 Or by the Sea of Galilee, 
 May there come to you sweet visions, 
 
 Gently floating through the air, 
 Telling you in words so true, 
 
 That God is everywhere. 
 
 By W. H. Mauzy. 
 49 
 
I do not know of anything that would give me greater 
 satisfaction than to go again to the Holy Land. The 
 Bible has become a new book to me. It is Palestine that 
 beckons so invitingly above all countries in the world to 
 the Bible student. So that one can scarcely resist becom- 
 ing a pilgrim to its sacred shrines. 
 
 Joppa is the nearest seaport to Jerusalem. We reached 
 that city March 5th, at seven o 'clock in the morning. The 
 steamer anchored over a mile from shore, as the harbor 
 is very poor, and filled with jagged reefs which make 
 even landing in the small boats a matter of no little 
 danger. Turks are the boatmen and their boats were in 
 readiness for us. Everybody went ashore. 
 
 The house of Simon the tanner was the first place 
 visited. "Send men to Joppa to call for one Simon sur- 
 named Peter." (Acts 10:5.) And he was in the city 
 of Joppa praying, "And I saw a vision." (Acts 11:5.) 
 Here Peter had his vision which warned him to regard 
 no man as unclean; to proclaim his message of good 
 tidings to the world at large, not merely to the Jews but 
 also to the Gentiles. It taught him a great lesson the 
 brotherhood of man. 
 
 The Holy Land is like a stringed instrument, it vibrates 
 at every turn with the beautiful passages of the word of 
 God. 
 
 The house of Simon is a one-story stone building, flat 
 roofed, ill-smelling and musty from being long untenanted. 
 There is a large date tree before the door which has been 
 trained all over the roof, and as one walks around there 
 
 50 
 
he must dodge and work his way among the low-hanging 
 limbs. 
 
 We next went to Hotel Howard, a good lodging place 
 where we had good fare and service. The landlord took 
 the Masons who were in the party out behind the hotel 
 where is a lofty tower. We ascended the tower and the 
 landlord pointed out to us the Mountains of Lebanon 
 from whose forests the great timbers for Solomon's 
 Temple were hewed and dragged to the seashore and 
 floated to Joppa, thence transported to Jerusalem down 
 the long valley and up a raise of 2,600 feet to the height 
 of Jerusalem to Mount Moriah. How these immense 
 timbers were removed that distance is not known exactly. 
 But with all the mechanism of today the task would be 
 a herculean one. 
 
 From the tower top, we were shown the place where, 
 it is said, that Jonah was spewed from the whale's mouth. 
 The place was a mile north of us, just where a small ravine 
 makes into the ocean. 
 
 The markets of Joppa are the finest that I ever saw. 
 Every known fruit and vegetable and meats are exposed 
 for sale, arranged on the floors of the market place with 
 women sitting beside them soliciting your attention to 
 their wares. 
 
 Camels and donkeys are the means of transportation, 
 the streets being so narrow that no vehicle could be used. 
 Men share in the burden bearing. I saw big half-naked 
 Turks carrying huge Dutch sacks of wheat from the 
 market place to the wharf, there to be loaded into the 
 
 51 
 
small boats which convey them to the steamers. Two 
 men seize a sack of wheat and swing it onto the bended 
 back of the carrier, bind it with a short rope which 
 passes across the forehead, and balancing the burden by 
 movements of the shoulders, he proceeds with a tilting, 
 mincing step to the wharf, a fourth of a mile distant. 
 Women bear their share of the burdens and more too. 
 They go two and three miles to find fuel, carrying great 
 loads on their heads, and if, when they return, their 
 husbands think that they have not brought enough, they 
 are severely beaten. It is considered a shame for a man 
 to cut fuel, carry water or grind flour. In every alley 
 are seen women squatting on the ground grinding flour 
 between two stones. 
 
 There are many churches in Joppa and each has its 
 quota of sacred relics, whose claims are a tax on the 
 beholder's credulity. 
 
 We were shown the house of Tabitha or Dorcas, whom 
 Peter raised to life after his vision and while he was 
 residing at the home of Simon the tanner. 
 
 The present population is about 40,000. An average 
 of 20,000 pilgrims, many of them Russian peasants, pass 
 through Joppa annually. It has a large export trade in 
 olives, figs, pomegranates and apricots, but especially in 
 oranges. It has a delicious climate and is surrounded by 
 four hundred gardens or orchards of orange trees, each 
 garden covering from three to twelve acres. 
 
 It is said that many of the Jews fall upon their knees 
 and kiss the earth in their joy at being in Palestine, and 
 
 52 
 
the Russian pilgrims do the same. Joppa is the main 
 entrance to the Holy Land and travelers are eager to 
 cross the Plain of Sharon and get into the mountains of 
 Judea, and the royal city of David and Solomon. But 
 we cannot leave Joppa yet as every part of the land about 
 us in throbbing with Bible memories. My friend came 
 in while I was writing, and said, 
 
 "I was looking at the bright side of things here in 
 Joppa. I was up to the place where Jonah was landed 
 after his submarine voyage. I was just thinking how 
 good he must have felt when he got up and walked away 
 and looked back and saw that great monster. That is a 
 lesson we must not forget. We cannot get away from 
 God and we had better take our medicine." 
 
 "My friend, I am really glad that your mind runs for 
 good. I can see you are looking for good. That is one 
 thing we can find, as it is everywhere ; and now as we go 
 up to the Holy City, think nothing but good. I want a 
 good report from you in the Royal City and I want your 
 mind clear in regard to the teaching of our Lord and 
 Master." 
 
 Joppa was anciently a Phoenician colony in Philistia, 
 and according to Pliny it existed as a city before the 
 flood. Its ancient name, "Joppa the Beautiful," is said to 
 have been derived from Japeth, one of the sons of Noah. 
 Along the highway, out into the open desert, are long 
 processions of patient camels in single file, tied head to 
 tail together, led or ridden by Bedouins and their blue- 
 draped women whose faces are covered by black veils, 
 
 53 
 
and all whose wealth is displayed in silver ornaments 
 on their heads and arms; and then we see a professional 
 man praying, who will recite the Koran at five cents, or 
 two pence half penny, a chapter; a harem bewailing the 
 lost husband ; the ladies of the mourning family preparing 
 and dispensing cups of coffee under a tent pitched close 
 by; and on Thursday, the weekly festive day, all the 
 Moslem ladies of Joppa resort to the cemetery, their only 
 pleasure garden and rendezvous, to pray, picnic and gossip 
 from sunrise to sunset. 
 
 From Joppa to Jerusalem is thirty-six miles over a 
 fine road. This road has for ages been traveled by Pil- 
 grims, Jews and Christians, barefooted, and also by 
 devout nuns. The dashing crusaders knew it well. The 
 timber from Lebanon for building Solomon's and Ezra's 
 temples was carried over this road to Mt. Moriah. And 
 Peter the Apostle traveled by it, stopping at Lydda on 
 the way. (II Chron. 2 : to 17 ; Ezra 3 : 7.) And as Peter 
 came to Lydda he found a man named J^neas who had 
 kept his bed eight years and was sick of the palsy. And 
 Peter said unto him, " Arise and make thy bed," and he 
 arose. (Acts 9 : 32 to 38.) 
 
 After leaving Lydda we came to a handsome fountain 
 and there is a house which the dragomen point out as the 
 house of Tabitha. Here they point out a sepulchre as 
 that of Tabitha 's tomb, and a little farther on is the 
 village of Yagus, the traditional scene of Samson's exploit 
 with the foxes. (Judges 15 : 4-5.) Here Samson caught 
 
 three hundred foxes and tied tail to tail, put fire brands 
 
 54 
 
to the tails, turned them loose in the ripe grain fields 
 and had the whole country in flames in a few minutes. 
 Here is where Samson lived in the rocks and where he 
 prayed the Lord God to give him strength, and then took 
 hold of the pillars and said "Let me die with the Philis- 
 tines." At this time he slew more than in his life. 
 (Judges 16 and 17.) He was from the tribe of Dan. The 
 account of his birth, life and exploits is given in the 
 Judges. He was the strongest man, and celebrated for 
 his fearless and wonderful acts. 
 
 Mohamet declared that at the last day Christ will slay 
 anti-Christ at the gate of Lydda. 
 
 Next we came to Ramleh famous for its tower, and 
 Arimathea, where Joseph came from and begged the body 
 of Jesus and laid it in his own tomb wherein no man had 
 lain. Between Ramleh and the next village, two miles 
 on the right side of the road, are the ruins of Tell-el-Gayer, 
 a royal city of the heathen on the border of the tribe of 
 Ephraim. It was taken by Pharaoh and burned, and the 
 land given by him with his daughter to Solomon as a 
 dowry. Solomon rebuilt it. (1 Kings 9 : 16.) It was 
 here that a few years ago the famous Gayer inscription 
 in ancient Hebrew and marking the limits of the land 
 belonging to the ancient city, was discovered. 
 
 Next we came to the Valley of Ajalon. "Sun stand 
 thou still upon Gibeon, and thou moon in the Valley of 
 Ajalon ; and the sun stood still and the moon stayed, and 
 there was no day like that before it or after it." (Josh. 
 10:12 to 14.) What wonders prayer does accomplish! 
 
 55 
 
Why do not we commune more with the Infinite within 
 our temple? As Jesus said, "The time is coming and 
 now is when you will not worship in this mountain nor 
 at Jerusalem, but worship in Spirit and in Truth." 
 
 Next we came to Latroon. Tradition, through many 
 centuries, perhaps ever since the day when the crosses 
 stood on Calvary, makes this the birthplace of the peni- 
 tent thief. From Latroon after passing guards' houses, 
 we see on the right, Job's well. 
 
 Next we came to Kirjath Jearim (Joshua 9:17). 
 Here the ark of the covenant was restored by the Philis- 
 tines it was brought here from Beth-Shemeh and placed 
 in the house of Abinidab on the hill, where it remained 
 until it was taken by King David to Jerusalem. And as 
 we go on, we are doubtless in the track of the wonderful 
 procession described in II Samuel, 6. 
 
 Many villages and ruins are seen between Kirjath- 
 Jearim and Jerusalem which are not positively identified 
 by history, either sacred or profane. It is supposed by 
 some, however, that the ruin on a round hill beyond 
 Eklala was the house of Obededom the Gittite, in which 
 the Ark of the Covenant rested, "And the house was 
 blessed." (II Sam. 6 : 10 to 12.) We should see to it that 
 the Covenant of our Lord and Master should rest in our 
 house, the temple not made with hands eternal in the 
 heavens. 
 
 This place has been identified with the ancient Mizpeh 
 of Samuel (I Sam. 7), and going down the hill towards 
 Kolonich we see in the distance on the right hand (foun- 
 
 56 
 
tains) Kasim the traditional burial place of St. John the 
 Baptist; a beautiful valley terraced from top to bottom 
 and planted with olive trees and figs in abundance, giving 
 some idea of Judea as it looked when one was crying in 
 the Wildnerness of Judea! 
 
 The traditional Emmaus, where Jesus went with the 
 two disciples, is not far from here, being situated on the 
 hill west of Neby Samuel. From here, the road passes 
 over a brook from which, tradition says, David chose the 
 smooth stones for his sling on the occasion when he 
 fought and slew the Philistine giant, Goliath of Gath. 
 And David said to Saul, "Let no man's heart fail because 
 of him. I will fight him." And Saul said to David, 
 "Thou art not able, as thou art but a youth," and David 
 said unto Saul, "Thy servant kept his father's sheep and 
 I slew a lion and a bear and this Philistine shall be as 
 one of them, seeing he hath defied the armies of the living 
 God." Saul said, "Go, the Lord God be with you." 
 David was short, light, had red hair and blue eyes, was 
 strong and swift of foot, valiant and prudent. He was 
 anointed King by Samuel. From the sheep-cot he went 
 to carry food to his three brothers in Saul's army. He 
 killed Goliath with a stone from his sling. Here is the 
 brook Elah, from which David selected five, smooth 
 stones. We went down in the brook and walked over the 
 pebbles that had been washed smooth by the great force 
 of the water from the mountains which has flowed over 
 these pebbles for ages. There is where David armed him- 
 self. He had a great many to select from and found just 
 
 57 
 
the size he wanted. He prepared himself with five volleys 
 so that if one failed he had four more chances. The place 
 corresponds with the Bible. 
 
 I got interested in this fight. I could see David and 
 Goliath the champions the one God appointed, the 
 other evil appointed. Here the destiny of the world was 
 at stake. Here are two mountains, five hundred feet 
 high, the Philistines on one and the Israelites on the 
 other. David the champion of God and the Israelites; 
 Goliath champion for evil and the Philistines. The fight 
 is in the valley. 
 
 David was a little fellow, under-sized, a youth, tender 
 in years. I can see him walking forward, as the Bible 
 says David made the first step forward. Here comes 
 Goliath, the Champion of Gath, whose height was six 
 cubits and a span, a helmet of brass upon his head, armed 
 with a coat of mail the weight of which was five thousand 
 shekels of brass; greaves of brass on his legs, and a 
 target of brass between his shoulders. The staff of his 
 spear was like a weaver's beam, and his spear head 
 weighed six hundred shekels of iron. And one bearing a 
 shield went before him. He cried unto the armies of 
 Israel and said, "I defy the armies of Israel." You can 
 see him coming in all his array, trusting in nothing self. 
 
 Here comes that little whipple swinging his sling 
 made out of two strings of flax twisted and a small 
 leather at the bottom. Swinging these you can see the 
 stone which struck Goliath in the forehead. David's 
 
 58 
 
weapon is the God of Israel, and he can use it at long 
 range. 
 
 "Come to me," says the giant, "And I will give your 
 meat to the ravens and the beast of the field; your flesh 
 will be a banquet to the vulture and the jackals." I hear 
 him laugh through the mouth-piece of his helmet. "Come 
 to me, you contemptible little thing." The idea that a 
 five-footer should dare to come out against a ten-footer. 
 
 David responded, "I come to you in the name of the 
 Lord of Hosts." And he who fights in that spirit wins. 
 
 ' ' What about the helmet on his head, ' ' said my friend, 
 "did the stone which David flung crush through the 
 helmet?" 
 
 "No. You see when Goliath scoffed and laughed and 
 jerked up his head, the helmet fell off because he defied 
 the God of Israel. David saw the bare forehead and the 
 skull cracked and gave away as an eggshell, and the 
 ground shook." 
 
 Here is a lesson to all. If we go in the name of the 
 God of our fathers, all our battles are fought. And there 
 is nothing too large for us to tackle if we use the sword 
 of Truth, as it is mighty in our battles. 
 
 The sword and armor of the giant were first taken to 
 his tent in Bethlehem, afterwards to Nob, and laid up in 
 the tabernacle. Saul took David into his service as a 
 minstrel. Jonathan was his friend. Women sang his 
 praises as superior to Saul. Saul, jealous, sought twice 
 to kill David. Being afraid of David, he made him 
 captain, and David behaved wisely. All Israel loved 
 
 59 
 
him. Michal, Saul's daughter, loved David, and Saul 
 gave her to David for a price and David paid double the 
 price. He was made armor-bearer with a place at the 
 King's table. He had a secret meeting with Jonathan 
 and at the sign of the arrow David flies. He eats conse- 
 crated bread and gets Goliath's sword at Nob. The 
 incident of the water at Bethlehem I Chr. 11 : 17. He 
 takes his parents to the King of Moab. They are never 
 mentioned again. The Gadites swim the Jordan at its 
 flood and join him. A royal residence in the City of 
 David Zion. His wives were increased. Hiram of Tyre, 
 an ally, sends cedar wood for David's palace. He blesses 
 the people from the new Tabernacle on Zion "The Lord 
 of Hosts, He is the King of Glory." God's house is de- 
 signed. Uriah is murdered. Nathan's rebuke "Thou 
 art the man." David numbered the people unlawfully in 
 pride. Joab and the captains opposed it. Gad the Prophet 
 warns of three calamities. David would not choose, and 
 the three days pestilence killed 70,000 and was stayed 
 at the threshing floors of Arnan. David bought the site 
 for a sanctuary. It is now marked by an ancient church. 
 The dome of the rock at Jerusalem. David renews his 
 resolve to build a house for the Lord. In short, David 
 was a shepherd, soldier, poet, prophet, priest, statesman 
 and king, a friend, leader, devoted father. He represents 
 the Jewish people at the point of the change from the 
 lofty writers of their older system to the higher civiliza- 
 tion of the newer. He was a type of the Messiah who is 
 called the Son of David. 
 
 60 
 
David as King was above reproach. His private life 
 proved him a man. Next to Abraham, his name is 
 cherished of all the ancient Patriarchs. His writing and 
 instruction are far beyond any other scriptures and are 
 equally used by all the Christian churches and by the 
 Jews. I think the saying, that he was a man after God's 
 own heart, meant that he was chosen and Saul rejected. 
 He passed through trial and temptations and passions, 
 and his noble qualities outweighed his faults. 
 
 61 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE HOLY CITY. 
 
 Jerusalem, my happy home, 
 
 Name ever dear to me, 
 When shall my labors have an end 
 
 In joy and peace in thee. 
 
 When shall these eyes thy heaven-built walls 
 
 And pearly gates behold, 
 The bulwarks with salvation strong 
 
 And streets of shining gold. 
 
 Now, my dear reader, we are in Jerusalem. Take off 
 your shoes as we are on holy ground, and look for good 
 and you shall receive it, as good is present everywhere. 
 Look pleasant! Let the sun shine in! 
 
 We are near Mt. Zion and the Ark of the Covenant. 
 Here is where Jesus taught and practiced his wonderful 
 works. We have the promise that we can do the same, 
 and mightier works shall we do. 
 
 The City of Jerusalem, at the time of the siege of 
 Titus, contained, according to Josephus, more than 
 2,700,000 people. The Jewish population has largely in- 
 creased of late in Jerusalem as well as in Palestine 
 generally, although measures have been taken by the 
 Turkish government to stem the incoming tide. Jeru- 
 
 62 
 
salem is a very old city. When Abraham returned from 
 pursuing the Kings of the Plains, he met Melchizedek, 
 King of Salem, the Priest of the Most High God. Inside 
 of the walls, starting first from the Damascus gate, a 
 street divides the Moslems quarters on the east from the 
 Christian quarter on the west, and the prolongation of 
 the same thoroughfare separates the Jewish quarter on 
 the east from that of the Armenians on the west. David 's 
 Street leading from the Joppa gate to the Haram (Solo- 
 mon's Temple) at first separates the Christian quarter 
 on the north, from the Armenian to the south; and later 
 on it divides the Moslem to the north from the Jewish 
 quarter to the south; thence from St. Stephen's Gate to 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where was. it is be- 
 lieved, the western wall, and thence by Christian Street 
 into David's Street, the chief thoroughfare, and has 
 traversed the length and breadth of modern Jerusalem. 
 This, however, cannot cover the full area of the ancient 
 city which was able to accommodate at the solemn 
 festivals, as Josephus relates, at least as many as 
 2,700,000 persons that were pure and holy enough for it 
 to be lawful for them to be partakers of the sacrifice, not 
 to mention the many thousands who were debarred by 
 some physical impurity or defect from this privilege. We 
 have yet to learn how far Jerusalem extended at that, and 
 at other periods of her great glory. 
 
 At night, the streets are dark and it is not considered 
 prudent to go inside the walls. A thousand interesting 
 points in this venerable city await the observing eye, and 
 
 63 
 
that leisurely and scholarly study which is not often 
 lavished on Jerusalem, through which pilgrims pass at a 
 gallop, regarding it as any other city or hamlet. The 
 traveler should read the Bible through once more in the 
 Holy Land the only way you can get understanding and 
 full enjoyment of the book itself. 
 
 Starting from the Joppa Gate we are descending David 
 Street by many broad, shallow steps. We pass the grain 
 market and bazaars and arrive finally at one of the gates 
 of the Haram. 
 
 The Mohammedans revere Jerusalem as one of their 
 four holy cities, only second to Mecca. For the Jews, 
 Jerusalem is the only one, and here they come to die and 
 to be buried in its sacred soil; here they live on the 
 charity of their wealthy brothers all over the world, and 
 by these benefactions Jewish children are educated 
 gratuitously. There are some prosperous Jews living in 
 Jerusalem, but in spite of all charity, the mass of the 
 Jews are poor and physically degenerate. One of the 
 synagogues, of which there are three principal and many 
 smaller ones, all of course, in the Jewish quarter, should 
 by all means be visited. The beautiful, pale green dome 
 of one of these, is a conspicuous feature in the view of 
 Jerusalem as seen from the Mount of Olives. Very old 
 and beautifully inscribed rolls of the Old Testament may 
 be seen here. Jews are not allowed to pass before the 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre, they having crucified 
 Christ. This is an unwritten law, passed and enforced 
 by the less civilized element of the Christian body in 
 
 64 
 
DAVID'S STREET. 
 
Jerusalem; and Jews are also excluded by their own re> 
 ligious scruples from the Moslem enclosure, where stood 
 their King Solomon's Temple in all its glory. We were 
 admitted to the jealously guarded spot enclosing, as it 
 does, the dome of the rock one of the holiest of shrines 
 to the Moslem. The house where Jesus was judged is 
 located at the northwest corner of the Haram. The 
 Crusaders respected the dome of the rock and held sacred 
 service in it, but used the Mosque for a stable, despising 
 it as a work of the Jews. 
 
 The Holy Rock itself is 57 feet long and 43 feet wide, 
 rising 6 feet above the ground, and hovering, as faithful 
 Mohammedans assert, without any support, over a cavern 
 which through a hole in the rock has received the blood 
 of innumerable sacrifices in all ages, for here Abraham 
 worshipped and offered sacrifices and burnt offerings, and 
 here Elijah and David, Jesus and people of all nations, 
 have shed tears and prayed. 
 
 According to tradition, the souls of righteous dead 
 come here twice a week to pray. The Ark of the Cove- 
 nant is supposed to be buried below, on which account 
 no Jew would venture to cross the threshold of the Mosque 
 of Omar lest he should unwittingly profane the Holy of 
 Holies by his tread. 
 
 According to the Bible, the Jews were first mentioned 
 as "Jews" in II Kings 16:6. Jeremiah frequently used 
 the name, perhaps because the Tribe of Judah was very 
 numerously represented in the captivity. In the New 
 Testament the Jews are spoken of as the opponents of 
 
 65 
 
the Gospel, as the independent thinkers, and separation 
 of the Church and State with the falling to pieces of the 
 Jewish Church in favor of the Church of Christ. 
 
 The past of Jerusalem is full of thoughts, but the 
 future is equally impressive. These ruins are not always 
 to remain. The future temple and the restored Israel 
 when Jerusalem shall be the throne of the Lord to all 
 nations, claim the most earnest thought. The day when 
 the feet of the Lord shall stand on the Mount of Olives, 
 which is over against Jerusalem toward the east, is full 
 of importance, and whether we look backward or forward, 
 we have to speak of Zion as the joy of the whole earth, 
 for salvation is of the Jews. 
 
 "I suppose," said my friend, "you will be circumcised 
 before you go back, as you think the Jews are all right. ' ' 
 
 "Except ye be circumcised of the heart, you are none 
 of His. Circumcision of the flesh profits nothing. We all 
 are Jews that are circumcised of the heart. God wants 
 a pure and contrite heart. Such he seeks to worship him. 
 He does not look on the flesh but he wants a pure mind 
 and if we have not the mind of Christ, we are none of 
 His." 
 
 "They show two places," said my friend, "where they 
 crucified Jesus. The Romans have one place in their 
 church, and another is in the Sepulchre." 
 
 ' ' Now please go with me out through Damascus Gate 
 to the hill that is called Mt. Calvary. Here we observe 
 a gently rounded hill which resembles a human skull. 
 Here we see eye-sockets and a human skull. This is said 
 
 66 
 
by the Jews to be the true site and not that shown in 
 the Church of the Sepulchre. This round and hollow hill 
 shaped like a skull is the true Golgotha, the place of a 
 skull, and not the other. Here is where the three crosses 
 stood. If so, perhaps the sepulchre whose now open 
 mouth we see not far to the west of the hill, is that which 
 belonged to Joseph of Arimathea wherein never man laid. 
 And the women came early on the third day wondering 
 who should roll away the heavy stone which closed its 
 entrance, when an angel in bright raiment appeared unto 
 them and said, 'Our Lord is not here. He is risen.' ' 
 
 Our guide was explaining how our Lord and Master 
 was crucified and Joseph had begged the body and had 
 laid it in this tomb, and one of our party, a lady from 
 America, I am sorry to say, asked the guide, ''Is he in 
 there yet?" Just imagine how we all felt and how we 
 looked at one another, but not a word was spoken by us. 
 The guide says, "No, Madam, he has risen, and I am sorry 
 if he has not risen in your conscience." 
 
 I realized more than ever that he had risen, as my 
 mind went to the fourteenth chapter of St. John, where 
 he said, "I will pray to the Father and he shall give you 
 another' Comforter, that he may abide with you forever; 
 even the Spirit of truth ; whom the world cannot receive, 
 because it seeth him not, neither knoweth him: but ye 
 know him ; for he dwelleth with you, and shall be in you. 
 But the Comforter, which is the Holy Ghost, whom the 
 Father will send in my name, he shall teach you all things 
 and bring all things to your remembrance." For this 
 
 67 
 
end Christ rose and revived. That made him Lord both 
 of the dead and the living. 
 
 Here is a cavern in the hillside, called the Grotto of 
 Jeremiah, in which the Prophet is supposed to have 
 written his Book of Lamentations. In this same hill are 
 the tombs of the Kings and Prophets. From the Church 
 of Holy Sepulchre to Golgotha is about a quarter of a 
 mile, while the other place is close to the cell where Jesus 
 was in prison. The prison is a room hewn out of solid 
 rock and a large rolling stone to close it. The rolling 
 stones are round and flat. They have a groove at the top 
 and bottom chiseled out of solid rock. 
 
 "They don't agree," said my friend, "on the site of 
 David's tomb, or King Solomon's. (Read Neh. 3:16.) 
 ' ' What about the quarry ? I am afraid to go in it as they 
 say it is not safe and one could get lost. Were you in it?" 
 
 "Yes, I was, and it is worth seeing. One hundred 
 paces east of the Damascus Gate there is an entrance 
 through the foundation of the city wall to quarries in 
 which workmen dead perhaps thirty centuries ago 
 left some of their work unfinished, exhibiting to this latter 
 age their method of operation, and showing how Jeru- 
 salem was built. The rock roof is sustained by huge 
 pillars. The quarry extends under a large part of the 
 existing city but it should be visited in company with an 
 experienced and careful guide, otherwise there is risk 
 of pitching headlong into the dark. The quarry extends 
 700 feet under the city. Its stones are white and quite 
 soft, but hardens when exposed to the air. The place is 
 
 68 
 
interesting to Masons, as many hold the Masonry was here 
 instituted by King Solomon. Emblems made from the 
 stone are highly prized by the fraternity. There is no 
 doubt but that many temples and buildings were built 
 from these stones, as the quarry is very large. In the 
 quarry we met as Masons and had our pictures taken." 
 As we came out of the quarry on the highway leading 
 via Mount Olives to Jericho, my friend and I were in 
 conversation. 
 
 "I am not satisfied," said he, "with the place where 
 your guide says that Jesus was crucified, as I paid one 
 franc to see another place of crucifixion inside the walls. ' ' 
 
 "You must take the Bible for your guide in the Holy 
 Land, as this is the spot that God chose to send His only 
 begotten Son to do his mighty works and frame the Bible, 
 and it is a rule and guide to our faith. Do you see that 
 round hill, the shape of a human skull? And the Bible 
 says that Calvary was the place of a skull. Look! Be- 
 neath the forehead is a cavern that looks like eyeless 
 sockets. You see the shape of a skull." 
 
 "Yes, I see all that, but they make that other place 
 so plain." 
 
 "Yet surely you do not see any signs of Calvary or 
 place of skull. The Bible says that Jesus was crucified 
 outside the gate, and this is outside the gate, while the 
 site you speak of is inside the gate ; and besides, this skull- 
 hill was for ages the place where malefactors were put 
 to death, and Jesus was slain as a malefactor, and the 
 Bible says it took place beside a thoroughfare along which 
 
 69 
 
people went wagging their heads, and there is the thor- 
 oughfare. You see the inside place is a money affair. 
 This is free. ' Here is another proof that this is the place 
 as the Jews go by this place, they spit at this hill in 
 contempt of Christ Jesus." 
 
 "I will accept this place." 
 
 "Look yonder! You can see the cracks and crevices 
 in the rocks which were made, I think, by the convulsions 
 of nature when Jesus died. Here is the place where they 
 crucified Him. Two others with him and Jesus in the 
 midst. "Behold thy mother." "This day thou shalt be 
 with me in Paradise." "Father forgive them; they know 
 not what they do. If it is possible, let this cup pass 
 from me. I thirst!" What sighs! What tears! What 
 sorrow! What agony! 
 
 While I stood there the whole scene came to me. Here 
 is the first place my friend shed tears, and my dear reader, 
 if any one can pass through this scene without shedding 
 tears, he has a heart of stone. We see one of the thieves 
 repenting. We see a group of gamblers casting lots for 
 the coat of the dying Saviour. We see women mothers 
 and some whom he had healed and from whom he had 
 cast out evil spirits or thoughts and demons. Just think 
 of the condition of the atmosphere ! It was not a solar 
 eclipse such as we ourselves have seen. It is dark- 
 darker until you cannot see the surrounding hills; 
 darker still, till the chin of our Lord and Saviour falls 
 on his breast, and then we hear him saying, "It is 
 finished." And as I stood here, silence took possession 
 
 70 
 
of me and the thought came to me that the whole world 
 would be moved toward this hill. The Prophets pointed 
 forward to this hill. The Apostles and martyrs pointed 
 backward toward this hill, and all heaven has pointed 
 downward. I could endure the scene no longer, and we 
 next met at St. Stephen's Gate. 
 
 We crossed a Moslem cemetery to the spot where St. 
 Stephen was stoned, and descending a steep path we 
 crossed the Brook Kedron ( Jer. 31 : 40 ; II Chron. 30 13 :14) 
 passing the upper part of the Valley of Jehoshaphat and 
 the Tomb of the Virgin to the left. 
 
 Here to the right is the Garden of Gethsemane "Oil 
 press," near Jerusalem, the garden of our Lord's agony. 
 ( Matt. 26:36.) " Sit ye here while I go and pray yonder. ' ' 
 (Mark 14:32; John 18:1.) Just think what took place 
 here at different times, but especially the night before the 
 crucifixion. The garden is 300 x 200 feet, enclosed by a 
 high wall. There are eight large olive trees which look 
 to be old enough to be the very trees that were here at 
 the time of the shedding of tears of blood. 
 
 We come to the Mosque of Omar, a throne of Moham- 
 medan, where we are met at the door by soldiers who 
 bring slippers which we must put on before we take a 
 step further, lest our feet pollute the sacred place. A 
 man attempting to go in without these slippers would be 
 .stopped by the soldiers on guard there. In these awk- 
 ward sandals, adjusted as well as we could, we are led 
 to where we see a rock with an opening in it through 
 
 71 
 
which, no doubt, the blood of sacrifice in the ancient 
 temple rolled down and away. 
 
 Whatever else may be said about the sites of Jeru- 
 salem, one thing is positively sure, and that is, that the 
 Mosque of Omar, or as it should properly be called, the 
 "Dome of the Rock," marks the spot where stood Solo- 
 mon's Temple, and where afterwards stood the imposing 
 temple of Herod. There is but little doubt, but that here 
 is where Abraham offered up Isaac as a sacrifice. Ven- 
 erated alike by Jew, Moslem and Christian, up to fifty 
 years ago, the Moslems so restricted the entire area that 
 no Christian was able to gain entrance. The enclosure 
 has an area of thirty-six acres about one-sixth of the 
 entire space inside of the walls of the city. 
 
 I was glad when I got through it and could take off 
 the cumbrous slippers and step into the clear air. They 
 are nothing like the sandals of old. The Moslems have 
 no mechanical eye, as the ones they put on me were large 
 enough for Goliath, and for the time we were walking 
 through the Mosque of Omar about ten minutes we 
 had to pay one franc, equal to 20 cents of our money. 
 
 Leaving the Mosque of Omar, we see a curve of stone 
 which is part of the bridge that once reached from Mount 
 Moriah to Mount Zion, and over it David walked or rode, 
 to pray in the temple. 
 
 We next visited an ancient wall consisting of broken 
 stones and debris which had formed the wall of a Hebrew 
 temple, where is the "Wailing place" of the Jews, where 
 for centuries almost perpetually, during the day time, 
 
 72 
 
THE WAILING PLACE. 
 
 The Wailing- Place is a portion of the wall of the temple which is 
 
 certainly very old. Jews constantly visit this place 
 
 kissing the stones and weeping. 
 
whole generations of the Jews have stood, putting their 
 heads and lips against the wall of what is supposed to be 
 a part of Solomon's Temple, and it is now smooth with 
 their tears and kisses. It was one of the saddest and most 
 solemn and impressive scenes I ever witnessed, to see 
 scores of these descendants of Abraham with tears rolling 
 down their cheeks, and lips trembling with emotion, a 
 book of Psalms open before them bewailing the ruin of 
 the ancient temple and the captivity of their race, and 
 crying to God Jehovah for the restoration of the temple 
 in all its original splendor. I am sure that God will 
 answer their prayer just as soon as they accept the 
 Messiah, which they are doing by the thousands. I think 
 their prayer will bring Jerusalem back in all its glory, 
 it may not be in precious stones and architectural majesty, 
 but in a moral splendor which shall eclipse, forever, all 
 that David and Solomon saw. 
 
 Just outside the gate is where some of the most severe 
 conflicts in Jewish history were fought. Here it was that 
 the Apostle Paul was rescued by Roman soldiers from a 
 mob of infuriated Jews. This is the place of all places. 
 Here I stood and asked, "0 Lord God reveal to me the 
 grandeur of the City" for there are some things you can 
 see more vividly with no one but God and yourself present. 
 
 From this place there is a beautiful view over Kedron 
 and Olivet. Near the wall, by a pair of stairs, one 
 descends to the stables of Solomon. They are kept clean 
 and neat and not used for anything. It gives the impres- 
 sion of being a great subterranean cathedral with over a 
 
 73 
 
hundred and fifty massive columns. You can see where 
 the horses were tied by halters drawn through holes in 
 the mangers which are worn smooth, as all are made 
 of rocks. Coming up from this large and well arranged 
 stable, I came out at the temple area. My first words 
 were, "0 Jerusalem, Jerusalem, City of God, Joy of the 
 whole earth." We Jews that are circumcised at heart 
 will redeem Jerusalem and all nations will flock to it. 
 But one can shut his eyes and can hear the crash of the 
 twenty-three sieges which have come against Jerusalem 
 in the ages past. But in the twenty-fourth siege, my dear 
 reader, you will be a soldier. In that warfare we will 
 beat all war weapons into plowshares and pruning hooks, 
 not weapons of death but only the sword of the Spirit. 
 This is the war we are engaged in in the twentieth century. 
 This is the War of Peace. When Jerusalem shall purify 
 herself and take back the Christ she once cast out, then 
 it will be a type of that Heavenly City which Paul styled 
 the ''Mother of us all." When this temple is completed, 
 here on earth, then we will all march to that Jerusalem 
 where there will be no more discord, but all harmony, 
 and when this temple is built without hands, eternal in 
 the heavens, and Jesus Christ the cornerstone. When we 
 acknowledge Christ in the flesh as the cornerstone, then 
 we will go into the large upper room (Luke 22:12-13) 
 where the disciples made ready the Passover and w r here 
 they ate and drank with their Master for the last time. 
 We were shown the chamber in which the Apostles are 
 traditionally reported to have been assembled when they 
 
 74 
 
received the gift of tongues. When being all with one 
 accord in one place, suddenly there came a sound from 
 heaven as of a rushing, mighty wind, and filled all the 
 house where they were sitting; and there appeared unto 
 them cloven tongues like as of fire and it sat upon each 
 of them and they were all filled with the Holy Ghost and 
 began to speak with other tongues as the Spirit gave 
 them -utterance. (Acts 2 : 1-4.) 
 
 About this time at a gathering of the brethren, Peter 
 rose to speak, the number present being about a hundred 
 and twenty, and said that the prediction of scripture had 
 to be fulfilled, which the Holy Spirit made by the lips of 
 David, about Judas who acted as guide to arrest Jesus. 
 This man had bought a piece of land with the payment 
 for his treachery and falling from a height his body burst 
 open and all his bowels protruded. This was known to 
 all in Jerusalem, so the field got its name, "Aceldama," 
 which means, "blood field." 
 
 All around me are holy sites which are connected with 
 our Lord's passion and death. Here is the "Stone of 
 Unction" where his body was laid for the anointing, and 
 you can see devout Russian pilgrims covering it with kisses 
 and measuring it, that their winding sheet may be made 
 the same size. Here is the "Chapel of the Parted Rai- 
 ment," marking the place where his garments were 
 gambled for. That spot just beyond was where they 
 crowned him with thorns. Here is the place where they 
 scourged him ; here is where they nailed him to the cross ; 
 and there is the very rock where the cross stood with 
 
 75 
 
the actual cavity in which it rested. A few feet away 
 is a rock cleft, so they tell you, which is the very center 
 of the earth. This is the plage where the Roman centurion 
 stood who said, "This is the Son of God." And here is 
 the spot where Jesus appeared to Mary Magdalene after 
 his resurrection. 
 
 Down a stairway of thirty-five steps you can go to 
 the Chapel of St. Helena, where the mother of Constantine 
 sat while the work of finding the crosses went on. So 
 tradition says, three crosses were found. Not knowing 
 which was the true cross, one was taken to the presence 
 of a sick woman. It proved to be the cross of a thief and 
 because of that she became a maniac. The second cross 
 was brought to her and she was thrown into fits. The 
 third cross was brought to her and she was immediately 
 restored, and thus the true cross was identified. 
 
 When I read the account of the crucifixion the Old 
 Bible became a new Bible to me. I stood where I could 
 look over at the dome of the rock where once stood the 
 Temple of Solomon. I remembered in olden days that the 
 priest put his hand upon the head of the goat, confessing 
 the sins of the people, and then by the hand of a fit person 
 sent that goat into the wilderness, bearing the iniquities 
 of the Children of Israel. And my eyes filled with tears 
 when I read, "All we like sheep have gone astray. We 
 have turned every one to his own way, and the Lord has 
 laid upon the iniquities of us all." 
 
 The Pool of Bethesda is just outside of the north wall 
 of the temple area. It is 370 x 125 feet with a depth of 
 
 76 
 
sixty-five feet. Bethesda means " House of Mercy." This 
 is the pool where the miracle was wrought (John 5:2) by 
 the Sheep market, a pool which is called in the Hebrew 
 tongue Bethesda. Here lay a great multitude waiting for 
 the moving of the water, and a certain man was there 38 
 years and could not get in for the press. Jesus saw him 
 and said unto him, "Arise, take up thy bed and walk," 
 and he did walk. It was on the Sabbath Day and the 
 Jews said, "What man is that that told you to walk?" 
 The man answered it was Jesus, and the Jews sought to 
 slay him because he had done this on the Sabbath Day. 
 
 Close by the pool is Mary's Well or fountain. This 
 fountain has at various times gone by other names, but 
 acquired its present name after the death of Mary, the 
 Mother of Jesus. She being accused of unchastity, drank 
 of its waters which had from time immemorial been used 
 as a test of feminine innocence or guilt, and thus estab- 
 lished her innocence. Up to that time it had been called 
 the fountain of accused women, of which the innocent 
 drank unharmed, but which was death to the guilty. 
 Mary is said to have washed the clothes of the child Jesus 
 in it, and since then it has become a favorite bath with the 
 women of the neighborhood. It is identical with the lower 
 Pool of Gihon formed by King Hezekiah (II Chron. 
 32 : 30). At the water gate, the spring is within a cave 25 
 feet deep, whence it flows twice daily in the summer, once 
 daily in the autumn, and from three to five times a day 
 in the winter. The explanation given for this phenomena 
 is that a dragon dwells in the unexplored cavern to which 
 
 77 
 
a passage, visible inside the outer cave, is supposed to 
 lead. This dragon, say the Arabs, manages to secure a 
 monopoly of the water for his own consumption while he 
 is awake, but when he sleeps, as luckily even dragons must 
 at times, the spring flows on again. This tradition must 
 be ancient, for Prophet (Nehemiah 2:13) mentions the 
 dragon well in connection with the dung port which is 
 still almost directly above the fountain. The water has 
 a peculiar taste. 
 
 Outside the city is the Upper Pool of Siloam (John 
 9:7), where Jesus sent the man, blind from his birth, to 
 wash after he had anointed his eyes with clay. From this 
 point a path leads to the wall around to the right to the 
 dung gate, and from there southeast to the Haram, and 
 on the left the Gate of Zion. 
 
 The Lower Pool of Siloam lies inside the remains of 
 an ancient wall of Jerusalem, one of the walls alluded to 
 in Isaiah 22 : 11. A little south of this pool you will see 
 an old tree surrounded and propped up with stones, which 
 marks the spot where the Prophet Isaiah is said to have 
 been sawn asunder in the presence of King Manassah. 
 
 Just within the Aksa Mosque is shown a cistern called 
 "Birel Warka" " Well of the Leaf "in memory of an 
 adventure which befell a friend and companion of the 
 Khalif Omar. 
 
 Beneath the pavement here are spacious ancient reser- 
 voirs supplied with water from Solomon's Pool beyond 
 Bethlehem, by aqueducts still existing. A friend of Omar 
 happened to let his pitcher fall into the cistern below, and 
 
 78 
 
descending to recover it he found a gate which opened 
 into an unknown garden where he plucked a leaf which 
 never faded, for it was a leaf from Paradise. Other men 
 have since gone down in hopes of plucking a leaf or flower 
 from Paradise that should not fade, but none have ever 
 found again that garden gate. 
 
 Here we see huge stones of the oldest Jewish Period, 
 and parts of the city wall enclosing the Haram show, as 
 seen from without a very massive Hebrew masonry, be- 
 lieved to be coeval with Solomon ; but it is thought that 
 if excavations were permitted, even more extensive and 
 ancient remains would be found. 
 
 On ascending some steps near here, to get a view from 
 the top of the wall, we notice the protruding section of a 
 column built into the wall horizontally. The column can 
 be seen also from outside ; and to it, according to Moham- 
 medan tradition, a rope, fine and slender like a hair of 
 steel wire, will be fastened at the last day, stretching 
 over the Valley of Jehoshaphat from the Mount of Olives. 
 On this weak bridge the souls of the good from the myriad 
 tombs on the side of the Mount will cross over safely to 
 enter Paradise, while the bad will fall midway into the 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat where the mouth of hell will gape 
 wide for them. 
 
 Close by is a domed canopy, covering the traditional 
 site of the throne of Solomon, where he delivered his 
 judgments and where he was found dead. In order to 
 conceal his death from his slaves, the genii, that they 
 might finish the work he had set them to do, when dying 
 
 79 
 
he propped himself up on his seat with his cane, and only 
 when the worms had gnawed it through and the body 
 fell, did the demons realize that they were at last released 
 from their bondage to the Royal King. Threads of gar- 
 ments of pilgrims are fastened upon the gratings of the 
 window. 
 
 Mohammet venerated the site of Solomon's Temple, 
 and unbelievers have not been allowed to enter the en- 
 closure of the Haram until of late years. Permission to 
 visit the Haram must be obtained through the Consulate 
 of the visitor, and the fee varies according to the number 
 of persons in the party. A sunny day should be chosen 
 for all such visits, that the dark interior of many of these 
 interesting and beautiful places may be better seen. 
 
 Following a trail a short distance outside the city we 
 come to a slight elevation which is named "The Mount of 
 Evil Counsel," so-called from ancient days in the time of 
 Jeremiah, who says of it (19: 7), "And I will make void 
 the counsel of Judah and Jerusalem in this place." It is 
 also called "Field of Blood" or Aceldama, being the field 
 said to have been bought with the thirty pieces of silver 
 paid to Judas for betraying his Lord and Master. Here 
 also, tradition says, Judas hanged himself from a tree 
 which is still pointed out to pilgrims. 
 
 On the side of this hill, sloping to the Valley of Hin- 
 nom, are extensive tombs. Some of the low entrances to 
 these tombs have stone doors, and from the early Chris- 
 tian Period were occupied as hermitages by devout men. 
 Some of the chambers are richly sculptured, and some 
 
 80 
 
adorned with the carved monograms of Jesus with crosses 
 and other devices, while others have pictures in fresco, 
 and some still contain bones. The Apostles are supposed 
 to have concealed themselves in one of these caverns when 
 their Master was imprisoned in the House of Caiaphas, the 
 High Priest, which stood opposite. It receives its name 
 from the tradition, that here at his residence, Caiaphas 
 made the agreement with Judas by which he was to betray 
 his Lord and Master into the hands of his enemies. 
 
 81 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 MOUNT OF OLIVES AND BETHLEHEM. 
 
 Mt. of Olives is a long range of mountains, 2,600 feet 
 above the sea, east of Jerusalem, commanding a fine 
 view of the Jordan Valley (II Sam. 15:30; Matt. 21:1). 
 When Jesus drew near to Bethpage on Mt. of Olives, he 
 sent two of his disciples into the village. "You shall find 
 an ass with a colt; loose them and bring them unto 
 me." Here at Bethpage is the very stone from which 
 our Saviour mounted the ass. This stone was discovered 
 during the excavations now under progress. Here is 
 where Jesus wept over Jerusalem, and here, on this rock, 
 is where he descended and left his tracks in this solid 
 rock just as one would in mud. I measured the track. It 
 was a No. 7 shoe, after our custom of measurement. 
 
 "What," said my friend, "about these tracks, and 
 the tracks the cock left when Peter denied our Lord?" 
 
 "The tracks our Lord and Master left behind, when 
 he made his ascension, was to show the unbelieving Jews 
 that he was the Messiah, and still they rejected him. And 
 in regard to the tracks of the cock, when Peter denied 
 him, there are signs following. I accept it, for all power 
 in heaven and earth was given him. The same thing 
 
 82 
 
DQ WrH 
 
 H > e<1 
 
 
 
 ss 
 
occurred in the fig tree. Jesus being hungry, seeing a fig 
 tree afar off came to the tree and finding nothing but 
 leaves, said unto the tree, 'No man shall eat fruit of 
 thee hereafter forever.' And in the morning they saw 
 the fig tree dried up from its roots. Peter called the 
 Master's attention to it." 
 
 The fig tree is very useful in Palestine. It is the 
 first tree mentioned in the Bible. (Gen. 3:7.) And their 
 eyes were opened and they sewed fig leaves together and 
 made aprons. It has been cultivated for its fruit which 
 in most warm countries forms an essential portion of the 
 food of the inhabitants, either in a fresh or a dried state. . 
 The fig tree lives to a great age. It puts forth its fruiting 
 stems before its leaf buds expand ,and these green figs 
 remain through the winter. Cakes of dried and pressed 
 figs were and are still used as an article of food, and all 
 Israel dwelt safely under his fig tree from Dan to Beer- 
 sheba, all the days of Solomon. ''For every man shall 
 sit under his fig tree and none shall make him afraid;" 
 the Lord of Hosts has spoken it. 
 
 From Jerusalem to Bethlehem, the road runs down 
 from the Joppa Gate, crosses the upper Valley of Hinnom 
 below the range of almshouses built for poor Jews by 
 the late Sir Moses Montefere of England, leaving the Hill 
 of Evil Counsel to the left, here to the right we pass a 
 neat, clean village, built and inhabited by the German 
 Templars. The road passes the Valley of Pehhaim on 
 the right, where David fought twice with the Philistines 
 and conquered them, the signal for the battle being given 
 
 83 
 
the second time by the sound of a gong in the top of 
 the mulberry trees which should betoken the presence 
 of the Lord. (II Sam. 5 : 18-25.) 
 
 The Valley of Giants is on the left (Josh. 18 : 16) and 
 the well in which, when quenching their thirst, the Wise 
 Men from the east, beheld once more reflected in its 
 waters, to their exceeding great joy, the Star which 
 had led them to Jerusalem in search of the newly born 
 King of the Jews, that they might worship him. (Mat. 
 2 : 1-12.) From the hill about it can be seen at the same 
 time, both the City of the Great King, and the City of 
 David. To the north lies Jerusalem, and the Mount of 
 Olives surmounted by a Russian bell tower. Beyond, to 
 the north and east, are the Mountains of Moab and the 
 Dead Sea, while to the south is Bethlehem, built high on 
 a ridge around a fertile valley, and the old town of Giloh 
 where dwelt the Gilonites, David's counselors (II Sam. 
 15:12). 
 
 Near this is "the field of Peas." Jesus passed by, to 
 or from Bethlehem no doubt, and saw a Jew sowing peas. 
 Jesus asked the man what he was doing. The man 
 answered, "I am sowing stones," and from that day to 
 this whatever seed might be sown there, this field pro- 
 duced only stones, and stones similar to peas may be 
 seen all over the field. Here is the scripture fulfilled, 
 whatsoever you sow, so you reap. 
 
 David's well is to the left of the road as it enters the 
 town of Bethlehem. It is called David's well in II Sam. 
 23-14-17. When the Philistines were in possession of the 
 
 84 
 
town, and David was hidden in a hole in or near the Cave 
 of Adullam, he longed and said, "Oh, that one would give 
 me to drink of the water of the Well of Bethlehem which 
 is by the gate," and three mighty men broke through 
 the hosts of the Philistines and drew water out of the 
 well of Bethlehem that was by the gate, and took it and 
 brought it to David. He would not drink it but poured 
 it out unto the Lord. "Is this not the blood of the men 
 that went in jeopardy of their lives?" From the well, a 
 splendid view of the whole town is to be had, and this 
 place is held sacred by all sects of Christians, as being 
 traditionally connected with the birth of Jesus our Lord. 
 Bethlehem is the market of the Dead Sea Bedouins, and 
 also of the numerous small towns and villages in the 
 vicinity, and it has, besides, various flourishing industries 
 of its own, as for example, production of the embroidered 
 dresses and the large industry of the carving of mother- 
 of-pearl, which are carried on to perfection. The educa- 
 tion of the people is well provided for by eight good 
 schools, German, Protestant and English. The people of 
 Bethlehem look happy, and they show their progressive- 
 ness by the manufacture of artistic souvenirs made from 
 shells and olive wood. The shops are well worth a visit. 
 Bethlehem means "House of Bread." In history, it 
 is associated with the lovely romance of Ruth, and was 
 the home of David and the birthplace of Joab, but it is 
 pre-eminent, from the fact that here was born the Saviour 
 of the World. There is no question that Bethlehem was 
 the birthplace of our Lord. We have assurance of the 
 
 85 
 
exact site. John speaks of the birth occurring in a cer- 
 tain cave, close to Bethlehem. Here also David was 
 anointed King, by the Prophet Samuel, at the Lord's com- 
 mand, when he had rejected Saul from reigning over 
 Israel. I Sam. 16 : 1-13) after which Bethlehem was called 
 the "City of David." (Luke 2:4.) This place was also 
 the scene of the interesting story of Ruth and Naomi, 
 which the traveler is advised to re-read before or after his 
 visit. Boaz married Ruth as directed by the law (Deut. 
 25 : 5) . He was a pure and high-minded man, fearing 
 the Lord and keeping his obligations among men. It was 
 in this vicinity, Ruth the Moabitess gleaned among the 
 sheaves. 
 
 Near the spot where the "Wise Men" knelt is the 
 Women's Grotto in which Joseph, Mary and the Babe, are 
 said to have once found shelter and concealment, is here 
 found. A drop of the Virgin Mother's milk, as she was 
 giving suck to the Holy Child, fell, it is said, to the floor 
 of the cave, ever since which, as both Moslems and Chris- 
 tians believe, the dust here possesses the miraculous 
 property of increasing the flow of mothers' milk. Here 
 women from all parts resort to buy cakes which are 
 sprinkled with this dust. 
 
 Here the road leads to a grassy plain called the "Field 
 of the Shepherds," making its surroundings a pleasant 
 picture which helps the imagination to realize the scene 
 described in Luke 2 : 8-16. To the Shepherds abiding in 
 the field, keeping watch over their flock by night, ap- 
 peared the angel of the Lord bringing good tidings of 
 
 86 
 
great joy which shall be unto all the people, for unto you 
 is born this day, in the City of David, a Saviour which is 
 Christ the Lord. And suddenly, there was with the angels 
 a multitude of heavenly host, praising God and saying, 
 "Glory to God in the Highest, on earth peace, good will 
 toward men." 
 
 Ain Karim is the traditional birthplace of John the 
 Baptist. The road leads over the Jebel Ali (Mountain) 
 and gives the- traveler grand views of the Wilderness of 
 Judea. Here at Ain Karim, according to tradition, dwelt 
 Zacharias the Priest, and Elizabeth his wife, in whose 
 house the Virgin Mary abode about three months and 
 sang her beautiful song, and where Elizabeth, being 
 well stricken in years brought forth a son in fulfillment 
 of the promise of Gabriel, the Angel of the Lord (Luke 
 1:5-80). For hundreds of years the Convent Church 
 of St. John the Baptist, was used by the Arabs to stable 
 their horses and donkeys. A French Embassador of King 
 Louis IV persuaded the Sultan to give it to the French 
 who forthwith cleansed it and restored it, making it one 
 of the finest modern churches in Palestine. 
 
 Distance is reckoned by minutes, hours and days, in 
 Palestine. In the city of Jericho I wished to find the 
 post-office, and asked a man the distance and direction. 
 "Two minutes, north," said he. After walking what I 
 took to be more than three minutes, I asked another man 
 and he told me that I had yet one minute to go. I walked 
 on more than two minutes before I reached the post-office, 
 in all I must have been five minutes on the way. 
 
 87 
 
It takes fifty minutes to reach the Valley of Roses from 
 which Ain Yalo is gained in twenty more. It is a planta- 
 tion of rose trees which are cultivated for distilling of 
 rose water much used in the east to flavor cooling drinks. 
 After passing by the roses, the way leads through olive 
 gardens, vineyards and cornfields, until we reach the 
 fountain of Yalo on the ancient road to Gaza. 
 
 Gaza is the last town in the southwest of Palestine on 
 the coast toward Egypt, on the high road between Egypt 
 and Syria, mentioned in Gen. 10 : 19. It is one of the 
 oldest cities in the world. Joshua could not subdue it. 
 "And Joshua smote them from Gaza even unto Gibeon." 
 Here Samson carried off their gates. Samson came to the 
 city Gaza and the people of the town said, "In the morn- 
 ing we will kill him. ' ' And Samson lay hidden until mid- 
 night and took the doors off the gate of the city and the 
 two posts, and went away with them to the top of the 
 hill which is before Hebron. The Ethiopian was baptized 
 by Philip on the way to Gaza. There are good wells of 
 water, orchards of varieties of fruit, palm trees and olive 
 groves. 
 
 88 
 
RIVER JORDAN. 
 
 Near the supposed place of the baptism of Jesus (Matt. 3: 13; Mark 
 
 19th chapter; Luke 3: 16), showing- two banks covered with 
 
 rushes and higher clay banks (Josh. 3: 16) 
 
 undermined in the rainy season. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 JOKDAN AND JERICHO. 
 
 On Jordan's stormy banks I stand, 
 
 And cast a wishful eye 
 To Canaan's fair and happy land, 
 
 Where my possessions lie. 
 
 Oh, the transporting rapturous scenes 
 
 That rises to my sight; 
 Sweet fields arrayed in living green, 
 
 And rivers of delight. 
 
 One of the most interesting excursions which may be 
 made from Jerusalem, is that to Jericho, the Dead Sea 
 and Jordan. It is a hard trip unless the traveler is pretty 
 well seasoned to fatigue. We slept at Jericho where there 
 are good hotels, and spent a delightful day on the banks 
 of the Jordan. 
 
 The route follows the main and ancient road around 
 the base of the Mount of Olives to Bethany, where dwelt 
 the family of Lazarus, the friend of Jesus, thence down 
 to the waters of Enshemesh mentioned in Josh. 15 : 7. This 
 is the only drinkable water on the road between Jeru- 
 salem and Jericho, as that at the inn at the midway is 
 very bad. Enshemesh ''Spring of the Sun" is a land- 
 mark on the north of Judah, the only spring now known 
 
 89 
 
east of the Mount of Olives. It is also the Spring of the 
 Apostles, so-called because it is supposed that Jesus and 
 his apostles rested there often, about one mile east of 
 Bethany. The sun shines on the spring all day, hence the 
 name "Spring of the Sun." 
 
 At the end of the fourth hour, the scenery becomes 
 very wild, among barren and rugged cliffs where the 
 brook Cherith takes its rise. About twenty minutes, off 
 the main road, is the cave where, by the waters of the 
 brook, the prophet Elijah dwelt, "And the ravens 
 brought him bread and flesh in the morning and bread 
 and flesh in the evening and he drank of the brook," 
 according to the command of the Lord. (I Kings 17 : 2-6.) 
 "Get thee hence by the Brook of Cherith that is before 
 Jordan." It is supposed that Thisbe in Galilee was the 
 birthplace of Elijah the Tishbite of the inhabitants of 
 Gilead. His one grand object was to awaken Israel to 
 the conviction that Jehovah, alone, is God. And Elijah 
 said unto Ahab, "As Jehovah God of Israel liveth before 
 whom I stand, there shall not be dew nor rain these years 
 but according to my word." (I Kings 17:1.) The 
 Brook Cherith, however, in course of time dried up and 
 another place of refuge had to be provided for the 
 Prophet. This was found in the house of a poor widow 
 with an only son, and she not in the land of Israel, but 
 at Zarephath in the territory of Zidon. He found her 
 near the gate of the city, gathering a few sticks to pre- 
 pare the last meal of which she and her son might eat and 
 thereafter die. And he added, as the ground for her 
 
 90 
 
belief and for his own demand, ' ' For thus sayeth Jehovah 
 God of Israel, the barrel of meal shall not waste neither 
 shall the cruse of oil fail till the day that Jehovah sendeth 
 rain on the earth." On the occasion of an illness be- 
 falling her son, she said to Elijah, "What have I to do 
 with thee thou man of God? Art thou come unto me 
 to call my sins to remembrance and to slay my son?" 
 Elijah prayed to the Lord, "I pray thee let this child's 
 soul come into him again." And the child began to 
 breathe. She said, "Now by this I know that thou art a 
 man of God." 
 
 After the third year of Elijah's sojourn with the 
 widow, the Lord came to him and bade him go and show 
 himself to Ahab (I Kings 18:1) then return to Carmel. 
 Now the long drouth was broken and a plentiful rain 
 descended at the Prophet's prayer. 
 
 Leaving the cave where Elijah was fed by the ravens, 
 is the Valley of Achor, the scene of the tremendous pun- 
 ishment of Achan, by Joshua, for his sins, when he took 
 "the accursed thing" out of Jericho (Josh. 7:21-26). 
 Joshua said unto Achan, "My son, give glory to the God 
 of Israel. What hast thou done. Hide it not from me." 
 And Achan answered and said, "I saw among the spoils 
 a goodly garment, two hundred shekels of silver, a wedge 
 of gold." And they cast out Achan and all his kindred 
 and cattle and gold, silver and garments, and stoned them 
 to death and burned them up, and they raised over him 
 a great heap of stones unto this day. 
 
 91 
 
We now come to the Inn of the Good Samaritan. 
 Listen to a lesson of the good Samaritan. A certain man 
 went down from Jerusalem to Jericho and fell among 
 thieves who stripped him of his raiment, and wounded 
 him and departed, leaving him half dead. And by chance, 
 there came down a certain priest that way and when he 
 saw him he passed by on the other side. And likewise a 
 Levite, when he was at the place came and looked at him 
 and passed by on the other side. But a certain Samaritan, 
 as he journeyed, came where he was and when he saw 
 him he had compassion on him, and went to him and 
 bound up his wounds, pouring in oil and wine, and set 
 him on his own beast and brought him to an inn and 
 took care of him. And on the morrow he gave two pence 
 to the host and said unto him, "Take care of him and 
 whatever thou spendest more when I come again I will 
 repay thee." Which now of these three thinkest thou 
 was neighbor unto him. And he said, he that showed 
 mercy on him. Then Jesus said, "Go and do thou like- 
 wise. ' ' 
 
 And I say we have plenty of priests and Levites but 
 not enough of good Samaritans. What a world this would 
 be if we all were good Samaritans, and all our secret 
 orders would practice the good Samaritan's spirit. Now 
 dear reader, let us commence anew and do what Jesus 
 taught and practiced. 
 
 Near ancient Jericho is Elijah's Spring, a beautiful 
 stream of pure cold water which gushes out of the side 
 of a hill in modern Judea, two feet deep and five in 
 
 92 
 
width, which waters the whole valley used for irrigation 
 and house supply. It is carried in stone aqueducts across 
 Brook Cherith massive enough to bear up a train of cars. 
 This is the spring which Elijah healed from Salt. The 
 men said, "The city is good but the water is poor," and 
 Elijah healed the water and it is good and sweet to this 
 day. 
 
 When we landed in Jerusalem, one of our first ex- 
 peditions was to go down to Jericho. One of our party, 
 a preacher, said to me, "You had better not take this trip 
 which is a hard one. You are too old a man to stand the 
 fatigue. ' ' But I assured him that I was surely going and 
 would keep up with the best of them. Jericho is today 
 as it was in our Saviour's time, a den of robbers. In the 
 caves and rocks thereabout, bandits and thieves are hidden 
 and come out to prey on travelers. The Turkish govern- 
 ment makes feeble efforts to suppress the brigandage, but 
 with little effect. As we were starting forth, the preacher 
 asked me, "Have you a revolver?" "Yes," I replied, and 
 drawing my Bible from the breast pocket of my coat, 
 ' i Here is my revolver. ' ' 
 
 "Oh, that is all right in times of peace, but on this 
 occasion, a gun is necessary. ' ' 
 
 "My dear sir, in times of peace we do not need the 
 Bible as a defense, and in times of danger has not the 
 Lord promised to be our strength and our refuge?" 
 
 We went safely to Jericho, a government escort being 
 furnished us and no danger came anigh. On our return 
 we were obliged to walk nine miles up hill, even the ladies 
 
 93 
 
of the party had to walk as the way is so steep that the 
 horses could only drag the empty carriages along. I sur- 
 prised my preacher friend and others, by keeping in the 
 lead the entire distance. They called me ' ' the kid. ' ' My 
 years of tramping through the mountains of California 
 had made the task easier than it seemed to the others. 
 
 Jericho, embowered in orchards and gardens, is called 
 the "City of the Moon." And the Children of Israel 
 pitched in the Plains of Moab on this side of Jordan by 
 Jericho. (Num. 22:1.) 
 
 Jericho is in the Jordan Valley, eight miles from the 
 Dead Sea and six miles from Jordan. When the Jews 
 crossed the Jordan, Jericho was a large and strong city. 
 Its origin is not recorded. Since it is not mentioned in 
 Gen. 13 when Abraham and Lot looked over the Plain, it 
 must have been built after that time. It is surrounded by 
 palm trees, of which there were many kind. (Gen. 34.) 
 Moses went up from the Plain of Moab of Nebo to the top 
 of Pisgah which is over against Jericho, and he saw all 
 the land of Gilead unto Dan, and all Naphtali, Ephraim 
 and Manassah, Judah unto the utmost sea, and the plain 
 of the Valley of Jericho the City of Palm trees unto Zoar. 
 The Lord said to Moses, "This is the land. I have caused 
 thee to see it with thine eyes but thou shalt not go over 
 thither." So Moses died in the land of Moab and God 
 buried him over against Beth Peor but no man knoweth 
 where. 
 
 Here the writer could see into the land of Moab and 
 Mount Pisgah. Our field glasses came in good use. 
 
 94 
 
Reader, if you ever make a trip to the Holy Land, get the 
 best binocular Zeiss German, as you will have use for 
 them every day. 
 
 The Valley of Jericho is thickly dotted about with 
 pleasure gardens, besides balsam figs, rose plants, cypress 
 and almond trees. Josephus says it will not be easy to 
 light on any climate in the habitable earth that can well 
 be compared to it. It was the first city west of Jordan 
 taken by the Israelites. Joshua cursed the city (Josh. 
 6:26), and the curse was fulfilled in the person of Kiel 
 the Bethelite (I Kings 16:34), and the ancient Jericho 
 has not been rebuilt to this day, to remain, for cursed is 
 the man that will rebuild it. 
 
 Modern Jericho is about two miles from the site of 
 ancient Jericho. There are extensive ruins on both sides 
 of the Brook Cherith. The city of the New Testament was 
 on the banks of Wady Kelt on the direct route from 
 Perea to Jerusalem. It was visited several times by Jesus. 
 Approaching it he cured the blind man. (Luke 18:35.) 
 Here in the house of Zaccheus in a garden in the suburbs, 
 he related the parable of the ten pounds. And behold 
 there was a man named Zaccheus which was the chief 
 among the publicans and he was rich. He was very small 
 in statute and he climbed up in a sycamore tree, and when 
 Jesus came to the place, looking up, "Zaccheus, come 
 down. I must abide at your house this day." And he 
 came down and received him joyfully. And they all mur- 
 mured, saying, "He was gone to be a guest with a man 
 that is a sinner." And he said unto the Lord, "Behold, 
 
 95 
 
Lord, the half of my goods I give to the poor, and if I 
 have taken anything from any man falsely, I restore him 
 fourfold." Jesus said, "This day is salvation come to 
 this house." 
 
 There are specimen of the sycamore tree, but it has no 
 relationship to the sycamore of this country. It grows to 
 a considerable size, is evergreen, and bears fruit. The 
 fruit is small and sweetish. It abounds in Egypt and parts 
 of Palestine. Its leaves are heart-shaped. The fruit grows 
 from the trunk itself on little sprigs, in clusters like the 
 grape. The wood is very durable. Mummy coffins made 
 of it are still sound. The trees are held in great value. 
 
 The Jordan is the largest river in Palestine. . It rises 
 in Mt. Hermon and empties into the Dead Sea, Majestic 
 Hermon, whose melting snows supply the Jordan. From 
 Mt. Hermon, the water passes south into Lake Huleh, and 
 flowing west from its south angle, tumbles down a rocky 
 ravine with cliffs on each side sinking seven hundred feet 
 in nine miles, to the Sea of Galilee. From the south of 
 this Sea, the Jordan flows, sinking six hundred feet in 
 sixty miles, in a straight line, but making two hundred 
 miles by its windings to the Dead Sea. The surface is 
 about 1300 feet below sea level. The swift stream slips 
 along noiselessly between its sandy banks. From the 
 head to the mouth of the Jordan is over 3000 feet of a 
 decline. 
 
 Here a number of Bible associations come to mind as 
 we stand at the ford. There returns a vision of the great 
 hosts of Israel, and Elijah and Elisha passing through on 
 
 96 
 
dry land. At this ford was the baptism of Jesus by John. 
 At the present time, pilgrims attach great importance to 
 baptisms and baths, especially during the week after 
 Easter. Two of our party were baptized. All are clothed 
 in white garments as they wade into the stream, and these 
 garments are carefully kept for burial garments. Here 
 pilgrims take cans and bottles of water to carry away with 
 them. 
 
 Here at Jordan is where the Children of Israel crossed 
 over on dry ground. And Joshua said, Pass over before 
 the Ark of the Lord, and every man take a stone for the 
 twelve tribes, that they may be a sign among you and 
 your children forever (Josh. 4). 
 
 And Elijah took his mantle and wrapped it together 
 and smote the waters and they were divided hither and 
 thither so that they two went over on dry ground. And 
 Elisha asked Elijah for a double portion of his spirit to 
 rest on him. Elijah answered, "You have asked a hard 
 thing." And Elisha took the mantle that fell from 
 Elijah and smote the waters and they parted as they did 
 for Elijah. (II Kings 2.) 
 
 About two miles from here is Gilgal, near Jericho, 
 which was the first encampment of the Israelites in Pales- 
 tine where they set up twelve stones as a memorial of the 
 passage of the Jordan. It is an ancient city. (Deut. 
 11:30.) It was for centuries the great place of the 
 nation's assembly. The tabernacle was pitched here until 
 it was removed to Shiloh. It was visited by Samuel, Saul 
 and David. There was a high place for idolaters.. (Hosea 
 
 97 
 
4:15.) As prophesied, the place is desolate, only a few 
 stones and a palm tree mark the spot. Elijah went with 
 Elisha from Gilgal, to Bethel, about six miles, where Jacob 
 had his dream. 
 
 Not far from Gilgal we come to an ancient mosque 
 called Nebby Moussa, sacred to the prophet Moses, wither 
 devout Moslems resort in large numbers at Easter time, 
 bearing in stately procession a certain most holy banner 
 from the Mosque of Omar, whose departure from Jeru- 
 salem and return thither, is honored by the attendance in 
 state of the governor and his suite of notables, with a 
 large military escort. This great function at Eastertide 
 has been arranged, it is believed, to occupy and amuse 
 the faithful during the church ceremonies of the Christian 
 festival at that season, and owes its origin to the shrewd 
 policy of the Turkish Government in having a large body 
 of Mohammedans at hand ready to move upon Jerusalem 
 at a moment's notice should occasion require, and yet 
 without any of the excitement which would be caused by 
 the formal calling out of the military reserve. The 
 beggars young, middle aged, old women, children and the 
 soldiers, all hold out their hands for "Bakshish, bakshish, 
 bakshish." 
 
 The beggars resemble ragbags or scarecrows. They 
 are professional beggars. Their garments hang around 
 them like a gunny-sack stretched over a bean pole, and 
 in their outstretched hands are two rusty dippers. Their 
 feet may be compared to a large bear's foot after pulling 
 
 98 
 
it out of soft black mud. They speak not, but their silence 
 is understood by all. 
 
 And there is another class, and these expect a tip at 
 every turn. It is not wise to give alms to street beggars, 
 for if a charitably disposed person begins to give alms, 
 he is pestered beyond endurance. 
 
 From the wilderness we journeyed on six miles and 
 came to the shore of the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is 45 
 miles long and from four to ten miles wide, and its great- 
 est depth is 1300 feet. The surface is about 1400 feet 
 below the level of the sea. The water contains 25% 
 solid substance in solution, of which 8% is salt. This is 
 six times as dense as the water of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 No living thing can be found in its waters and no 
 vegetation of any kind grows on its shores. About seven 
 million tons of water flow into the Dead Sea each day, 
 all of which is carried off by evaporation. 
 
 Not far from the Dead Sea, on the road to Jericho, is 
 a pillar of salt which from a distance resembles a human 
 figure, and which is said to be Lot's wife, and for 300 
 yards each way nothing grows, as it is all salt. 
 
 We left the city of Jericho at five o 'clock, March 10th, 
 and proceeded by rail to Jerusalem, reaching that city 
 at noon. 
 
 When traveling in Turkey you need a passport from 
 Uncle Sam. Then in Turkey you need a Turkish lozera 
 (local passport) costing $2.00 for traveling in Galilee or 
 Samaria. Firearms and ammunition are prohibited, and 
 
 99 
 
tobacco is sometimes confiscated in Syria. There are 
 trained dragomen in Palestine. They are, as a rule, 
 Christian gentlemen of wide knowledge concerning the 
 Bible and Palestine. 
 
 100 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE WILDERNESS OF JUDEA. 
 
 Ihe Wilderness of Judea is a mountain, the scene of 
 our Lord's temptation. Along its face are openings or 
 caves, once used by hermits, and just beyond these may 
 be seen the walls of a small Greek Convent. In the cliffs, 
 higher up, are the ruins of the "Chapel of the Tempta- 
 tion." It takes a practiced climber to reach it. Now, if 
 you are a good climber, we are where the devil taketh 
 him up into an exceedingly high mountain and showeth 
 him all the kingdoms of the world and the glory of them. 
 Reader, give this a serious thought and see what this 
 devil is. Look this up as it may be of great interest to 
 you. We could only see the whole world in mind. Look 
 this up before you pass judgment. See the answer Jesus 
 gave. "Get thee hence, Satan, for it is written thou shalt 
 worship the Lord thy G0d only." 
 
 "You say," said my friend, "that there is no devil." 
 "Here is the greatest demonstration of Jesus' perfect 
 life. He overcame the evil thoughts and an angel of God, 
 thoughts, ministered unto him. See what wonderful 
 works he did by denying the thought of an earthly king. 
 How much better it would be for us to deny the worldly 
 
 101' 
 
honors. 'And behold an angel came and ministered unto 
 him/ He came and dwelt in Capernaum which is on the 
 sea coast in the border of Zabulon and Naphthalim, by 
 the way of the sea, beyond Jordan, Galilee of the Gen- 
 tiles. The people that sat in darkness saw a great light, 
 and to them which sat in the region and shadow of death, 
 light is sprung up. And Jesus full of good thoughts and 
 deeds, went about all Galilee teaching and healing all 
 manner of diseases." 
 
 Leaving the wilderness of Judea, we passed the site 
 of Bethagla (Josh. 15 : 6) in full view of Mounts Nebo 
 and Pisgah. And Moses went up to the mountains of 
 Nebo to the top of Pisgah, and the Lord showed him all 
 the land of Gilead unto Dan, and all Naphtali, and the 
 land of Ephraim and Manassah, and all the land of Judah, 
 unto the utmost sea, and the south and the Plain of the 
 Valley of Jericho the city of palm trees unto Zoar. The 
 Lord said, ' * This is the land which I swear unto Abraham, 
 Isaac and Jacob, I will give it unto thy seed." All 
 nations agree that his promise was made to the Jews. 
 
 "But," said my friend, "this prophecy is literally 
 lost." 
 
 "No, all the Old Testament which the Jews reverence, 
 prophesies that the Messiah would be born from one of 
 their daughters and they would reject him, which is ful- 
 filled. He came to his own and his own received him not, 
 but as many as will receive him he will give eternal life. 
 ' . * 102 
 
Now the time is at hand. They will be restored as they 
 accept the Christ. They are coming by the thousands 
 and receiving the healing balm." 
 
 103 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 WHO ARE THE BEDOUINS? 
 
 The Arabs, as a nation, have not been prominent in 
 either biblical or secular history, but certain allusions to 
 them from time to time remind us of their continuous 
 existence. 
 
 It was to a company of Ishmaelites that Joseph was 
 sold and taken into Egypt, and from this race came the 
 Queen of Sheba (II Chr. 9:1). She came to prove Solo- 
 mon with hard questions at Jerusalem, with a very great 
 company and camels that bore spices and gold in abund- 
 ance, and precious stones. And she said to the King, 
 "It was a true report which I heard in mine own land, of 
 the wisdom, the half of which has not been told me." 
 
 That Arabia has always been the home and land of 
 the Arab, there is no doubt. Long before the Children 
 of Israel possessed the Promised Land, the descendents 
 of Abraham, through Ishmael, possessed this land, and 
 they dwelt from Havilah unto Shur that is before Egypt 
 (Gen. 25:18). One thousand years later their land was 
 spoken of by Isaiah as the desert of the sea, and in Isaiah 
 we read of the encampment that Kedar doth inhabit. 
 
 Later Jeremiah speaks about the tents, customs, ves- 
 
 104 
 
sels and camels of Kedar, and also refers to this people 
 as a nation, wealthy, dwelling without care, having 
 neither gates nor bars dwelling alone. 
 
 There is no doubt but that Abraham's bond women 
 brought forth this great nation, and Hagar is the mother 
 of them all (Gen. 16:10). And Hagar bare a son and 
 the son which Hagar bare was Ishmael. And the angel 
 of the Lord said unto her, "I will multiply thy seed ex- 
 ceedingly that it shall not be numbered for multitude." 
 
 To Abraham (Gen. 17:20), "And as for Ishmael I 
 heard thee. Behold I have blessed him and will make 
 him fruitful and I will make him a great nation." 
 
 To Abraham (Gen. 21:13), "Of the son of thy bond- 
 woman will I make a nation because he is thy seed." 
 
 And to Hagar (Gen. 21:18), "Arise, lift up the lad 
 and hold him in thy hand, for I will make him a great 
 nation. ' ' 
 
 Who are the Bedouins? They are proud of their 
 descent from Abraham and Ishmael in fulfillment of the 
 promises: "And he will be a wild man. His hand will 
 be against every man and every man's hand against him, 
 and he shall dwell in the presence of all his brethren. ' ' 
 
 Invaders, one after another, have tried in vain to get 
 the Arab's country, but have failed and no section of his 
 country has been taken by any of the Christian powers of 
 the earth. 
 
 Ishmael was born in Mamre but was sent into the 
 wilderness south of Beersheba, Paran, when he was six- 
 teen years old. He had a wife from Egypt who was the 
 
 105 
 
mother of his twelve sons and one daughter. Esan mar- 
 ried the daughter. Ishmael dwelt from Havilah unto Shur 
 that is before Egypt (Gen. 25:18). Their language is 
 spoken all over Arabia and here the prophecy "He shall 
 be a wild ass, every man against every man" is now and 
 ever has been true. The desert is called in Arabic 
 "Bedu, " and the genuine Arab calls himself "Bedouin" 
 (desert man). Four thousand years have not changed 
 their dispositions, manners, habits, occupations, govern- 
 ment or dress. They live in caves and crevices in the 
 rocks to this day, as they did in the time of Jesus. "And 
 they came over the sea unto the country of the Gadarenes 
 and there met him a man out of the tombs with an unclean 
 spirit, and he said, 'Come out of him, thou unclean 
 spirit.' " 
 
 As a nation, they have no use for intoxicating drinks. 
 Immorality is promptly and severely dealt with by the 
 killing of the guilty parties. Every tribe has its chief. 
 They have no form of government. Their chiefs adjust 
 difficulties and dangers. From what I saw, I find if you 
 treat them right you have made a faithful friend. A 
 great sight it is when the Bedouins come from the deserts 
 with camels loaded with kids, lambs, meats and skins to 
 exchange for dates, grain and the few other necessities 
 of life. 
 
 Camels are used as a means of traveling, especially 
 across the desert, both for riding and for burdens, and 
 also used in war. The hair which is shed in the spring, 
 is made into tent cloth and heavy cloaks for cold rains, 
 
 106 
 
and are used in the desert. The fine hair is made into 
 shawls. Its meat is forbidden as food, because it does 
 not divide the hoof. Some of their pet camels are orna- 
 mented with silver and gold and fancy needle work. Its 
 feet are provided with pads under the two toes which do 
 not easily sink in the sand. Its nostrils can be closed at 
 will, against the dust or sand or hot wind. Its long sharp 
 teeth are adapted to cut off the prickly shrubs of the 
 desert. Its hump is almost pure fat, which can be afr 
 sorbed on a long journey, where food is scarce, and its 
 stomach has several extra water bags holding supply for 
 many days. The desert would be uninhabitable were it 
 not for the camel. The camel 's milk is a luxury in the 
 east. 
 
 The swiftness of the camel is one thousand miles in 
 nine days. They are very docile. They lie down to re- 
 ceive their burdens, and sometimes their masters overload 
 them so they cannot rise to their feet. Then three or four 
 of these cruel Bedouins help them to their feet and they 
 carry the overload all day. They make a hideous noise 
 when they rise to their feet with an overload. 
 
 The Bedouins live in tents of hair. These are made 
 entirely of goat's hair which is collected, spun and woven 
 by the women, and are water and wind proof. Instead 
 of house-cleaning, they move their tents. There are large 
 villages of Bedouins who have been without a house for 
 over three thousand years. 
 
 Noah lived in a tent ; Abraham lived in a tent ; Jacob 
 pitched his tent in the mountains; Isaac pitched his tent 
 
 107 
 
in the valley; Lot pitched his tent toward Sodom; the 
 Syrian army was in a tent. "0 Israel, to your tents." 
 The woman Jael nailed Sisera to the ground within a 
 tent. Paul was a tent maker. Isaiah indicates that all 
 the human race lived under the blue tent of the sky when 
 he said that ''God stretcheth out the heavens as a curtain 
 and spreadeth them out as a tent to dwell in." 
 
 THE BIBLE. 
 
 The Bible is the only authentic source from which 
 instruction can be derived. It is sufficient to justify the 
 faith of the feeblest Christian. It teaches us to regard 
 the Bible as the utterance of Divine Wisdom and Love. 
 
 God is good. 
 Good is God. 
 Manifested in the Spirit. 
 Seen by the angels. 
 Proclaimed among the Gentiles. 
 Received up into Glory. 
 
 RULES TO STUDY THE BIBLE. 
 
 Put yourself, as it were, in the times, places and cir- 
 cumstances of the writers. 
 
 Carefully consider the context before you draw a con- 
 clusion. 
 
 Consider the circumstances of a passage as far as you 
 can, by whom it was written, and with what design. 
 
 Never form opinions from detailed parts and passages. 
 
 108 
 
Be content to remain in ignorance rather than to 
 plunge into error. 
 
 Do not judge your brother, for you yourself might be 
 the one in error. Always have charity for your brother, 
 as his ways and thoughts are not yours. 
 
 I want to give you one illustration : We tell our chil- 
 dren that the kingdom of heaven is above, and God dwells 
 on a throne; and the streets are lined with gold. How 
 misleading! when Jesus says the Kingdom of Heaven is 
 within you. Malachi says, "The Lord whom ye seek shall 
 suddenly come to his temple." Paul says, "If you have 
 not the mind of Christ, you are none of his. ' ' 
 
 109 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE TWO CEEATIONS. 
 
 A Scriptural Narrative Concerning the Two Creations. 
 
 In the beginning, God created the heavens and the 
 earth and the earth was without form and void and dark- 
 ness was upon the face of the deep. And the Spirit of 
 God moved upon the face of the waters. And God said, 
 "Let there be light:" and there was light. 
 
 John 5 : 39 says, ' ' Search the scriptures ; for in them 
 ye think ye have eternal life: and they are they which 
 testify of me." As we seek to know and find God, our 
 first thought naturally is to find what God is to us, our 
 relationship. As a starting point we find in the first 
 chapter of the Good Book, first verse, "In the beginning 
 God created the heaven and the earth," and from the 
 first to the twenty-sixth verse we find that God created the 
 firmament which he called heaven. Take notice this is 
 the firmament. And he also created the light, the grass, 
 the herb, the fruit tree yielding fruit, the fish and every 
 living creature, cattle, beasts of the earth, and God saw 
 that it was good. Now in the 26th verse God said, "Let 
 us make man in our image, after our likeness." Notice 
 God is a spirit, and they that worship him must worship 
 
 110 
 
him in spirit and in truth. (John 4:24.) The image of 
 anything is an exact production or counterpart of the 
 thing itself. Therefore, man is made in the image and 
 likeness of God. In the 27th verse, "So God created man 
 in his own image, in the image of God created he him, 
 male and female, created he them." 
 
 So, to begin with we find man is made in the image 
 of spirit. What is spirit? We answer, the life of man. 
 Therefore, God is the life of man. Acts 17:28 "For in 
 him we live, and move, and breathe, and have our being." 
 And in Gen. 1 : 31, God saw everything that he had made 
 and behold it was very good. We find now that man is 
 good. And in the second chapter of Genesis, first and 
 second verses, "Thus the heavens and the earth were 
 finished and all the host of them, and on the seventh day 
 God ended his work and rested." 
 
 We naturally ask why have we been believing that 
 man was evil. And who made this evil? Finding, as we 
 have, that God finished his work, and saw everything that 
 he had made and it was good. Take notice that in the 
 sixth verse of the second chapter, "But there went up a 
 mist from the earth and watered the whole face of the 
 ground" (an exceedingly heavy mist). And in the 
 seventh verse we find a man made from the dust of the 
 ground and the Lord God breathed into his nostrils and 
 man became a living soul. 
 
 Here is another man made from the dust of the ground 
 which a mist had covered. Well, we go farther and find, 
 in the eighteenth verse, this man had no helpmeet, so in 
 
 ill 
 
the twenty-first and twenty-second verses, the Lord God 
 caused a deep sleep to fall upon Adam, and he slept, and 
 he took one of his ribs, and closed up the flesh instead 
 thereof, and the rib which the Lord God had taken from 
 man made he a woman and brought her unto the man. 
 And twenty-third verse and Adam said, ''This is now 
 bone of my bones and flesh of my flesh. She shall be 
 called woman because she was taken out of man. And 
 this man was made from the dust of the ground, not in 
 the image and likeness of God Spirit. 
 
 So we wonder God having made all in and of spirit, 
 and this man made of the dust of the ground, we find 
 here another distinct creation. Let us see. In the begin- 
 ning of the third chapter of Genesis we find a serpent 
 taken into account as a prominent feature, and he is 
 securing a hearing with the woman, using his influence 
 to introduce or create disobedience into his creation by 
 declaring (after the woman having said in the 2nd and 
 3rd verses what they were forbidden to do, "We may 
 eat of the fruit of the trees of the garden, but of the fruit 
 of the tree which is in the midst of the garden God has 
 said 'Ye shall not eat of it, neither shall ye touch it lest 
 ye die' "), "Ye shall not surely die, for God doth know 
 that in the day ye eat thereof then your eyes shall be 
 opened and ye shall be as gods, knowing good and evil." 
 (4th and 5th verses.) Notice after ye partake of this 
 fruit then your eyes shall be open and ye shall be as gods, 
 knowing good and evil. Here comes in a knowledge of 
 evil. In this second creation we find evil, while in the 
 
 112 
 
spiritual we find only good. Designating the first as a 
 spiritual creation in which only good is found, the oppo- 
 site where evil is found, we term a material creation. Now 
 comes the question, in which are we to rely? We are all 
 looking for good and naturally say, give me the spiritual 
 every time. Well, how are we going to rid ourselves of 
 believing the material where evil reigns? So we will get 
 at the bottom of this second creation and see what founda- 
 tion this Adam man rests on. 
 
 At Jerusalem in charge of the Holy Sepulchre there 
 are in evidence Turkish soldiers, largely from the fact of 
 the constant disturbance that arises among the various 
 Christian sects, especially on festal days. Here each 
 denomination has its own shrine within the enclosure, and 
 each regards the other as intruders. We pay one franc 
 for a candle to light us through, and we find the exact 
 spot where, it is said, the dust was procured for the 
 creation of Adam. Now the definition from Webster in 
 Hebrew, man, earth man; red earth. And the word 
 Adamic, pertaining to Adam ; Adamic earth ; a name given 
 to common red clay, from a notion that Adam means red 
 earth. We also learn that Adam lived 930 years, and he 
 died, and they point out his grave near by, over which a 
 part of the building of the Holy Sepulchre has been built. 
 The death of Eve is not recorded. 
 
 Now God has made all good, then turns around and 
 makes a man from the dust and places a temptation before 
 him to do evil and lets it govern him. Is this consistent? 
 Would this not be charging God with having created 
 
 113 
 
another creation and it an evil one; creating one thing 
 on a foundation of only good, and another thing on a 
 foundation of evil and giving it the greater power so 
 that it would be able to tear down the first creation and 
 abolish it. Would any one accounted as possessing good 
 sense make such a mess of their efforts'? Much less the 
 all-wise, all-knowing, all-seeing, Infinite Wisdom. 
 
 God, Spirit, rules supreme in the spiritual creation. 
 The devil, evil, rules supreme, by a recognition of another 
 power, through greed, lust, deceit, murder, sin, disease 
 and death the fruit of the material creation. 
 
 Definition of devil : Smith 's Bible Dictionary In the 
 Greek diabolos, slanderer, false accuser. In the Hebrew 
 Satan. To lie in wait, to oppose. The opposite of God. 
 This character expresses the antagonistic, malicious and 
 perverse nature of the enemy of God and man. He is also 
 called dragon, evil one, angel of bottomless pit, prince of 
 the world, the god of this world. There we find the god 
 of the second creation, and the first commandment reads, 
 "Thou shalt have no other Gods before me" Spirit; and 
 Jesus further speaks of the devil (John 8 : 44) as a liar 
 and the father of lies and abode not in the truth for there 
 is no truth in him. And in Rev. 20 : 1-2-10-14, the devil 
 (god of this world) that deceived, was chained by an 
 angel from heaven, having the key to the bottomless pit. 
 (Notice this having the key). And laid hold on the 
 dragon, that old serpent which is the devil. And death 
 and hell were cast into the bottomless pit. 
 
 114 
 
Now for centuries this creation of the man, Adam, has 
 held us through a recognition of another power called 
 evil, serving two masters. The serpent was more subtile 
 than any beast of the field and he pops up whenever we 
 will listen to him. He will dictate to us all day if we 
 give him a hearing. We knowing of only one power and 
 that God, good, should realize that evil has no more power 
 than the nerves of a dead man. We find also through 
 recognizing the two creations as one and God being the 
 creator of both, that we get into a very mixed condition 
 of thinking by recognizing one power of evil, also another 
 of good. The evil has been feared and has influenced us 
 as having more power than good, through our business 
 relations, government, sickness and sin, and we often 
 confess that it is easier to do wrong than right at all 
 times ; and giving power to evil, sin, disease, as when any 
 disease attacks us we are filled with fear and worry, and 
 any serious trouble confronts us of a sinful nature we 
 give it our whole attention and worry how it will come 
 out. We hope and pray, but when placed in the balance, 
 fear and doubt weighs the heaviest, and we give up to 
 what we have called the inevitable and have called it 
 God's Will. Think of it! God 'swill! 
 
 Therefore, the foundation of this consists in a knowl- 
 edge of sin, sickness and death, having as its ultimate the 
 bottomless pit spoken of in Rev. 20 : 1-3. Now from this 
 mist or misapprehension that covered the whole face of 
 the ground, we find to have arisen the knowledge of evil 
 and all of its accompaniments, consequently believing 
 
 115 
 
they were one and the same creation, we charged God, 
 who created only good, with this terrible state of affairs. 
 So having reached the City of Adam (owing to the red 
 nature of the earth), that is by Zaretan, we looked for a 
 guide to find our way to the New Jerusalem, the house 
 not made with hands, eternal in the heavens. Notice 
 eternal in the heavens, and the firmament he called heaven 
 Gen. 1 : 8 which foundation is the Rock Christ. Hav- 
 ing found that we are created in the image and likeness 
 of God, we find the true creation to be spiritual, not 
 material ; also, that Jesus Christ came as the way-shower 
 to teach us how to build on a true and firm foundation, 
 against which the storms may beat and spend their fury, 
 but this house falls not because it is built on the rock 
 Christ, Truth. He made the statement, "I am the Way. 
 the Truth and the Life," and he backed up his saying 
 by giving proofs of it, in healing the sick, casting out 
 devils, restoring the lame, blind and halt, and raising the 
 dead in many instances, and finally in his own personal 
 experience at the crucifixion. John 17:3, "And this is 
 life eternal, that they might know thee, the only true 
 God and Jesus Christ whom thou hast sent." Notice life 
 is a knowledge of the only true God and Jesus Christ, so 
 through obtaining a knowledge of the teaching and 
 proofs of Jesus Christ, we get rid of the belief of serving 
 two masters God and mammon good and evil through 
 the understanding of the one and only true creation which 
 Jesus himself gave ample proof of. 
 
 116 
 
A CLOSING WOED. 
 
 I stood in the "temple area" which was the site of 
 Solomon's Temple but now the courtyard of the Mosque 
 of Omar. It is on a slight elevation which was called by 
 the Jews, Mount Moriah. Back to the time of which 
 history has no record, this spot has been reserved as a 
 place of religious worship. Many centuries before the 
 great Temple was reared, pagan nations had used it as 
 a place of sacrifice, and here Abraham came and made 
 his offerings to the Lord. 
 
 I stood there, surrounded by my countrymen and the 
 guides, when suddenly I saw a vision. I saw the wonder- 
 ful Temple of Solomon as it was in the day of that great 
 king. I saw the ' ' greater house ' ' ceiled with fragrant fir, 
 overlaid with fine gold, and set with palm trees linked 
 with golden chains. The porches thereof were overlaid 
 with gold of Parvaim, and posts, beams and walls were 
 of carven gold. Immense Lebanon cedars supported the 
 lofty walls, and pillars were reared before the temple, to 
 the right and to the left. 
 
 I saw the Holy House, within the inner temple, with 
 its guarding cherubims of fine gold whose outstretched 
 wings hovered the Ark of the Covenant. I saw the altar 
 of burnished brass, and the laver of molten brass with 
 brim worked in lily flowers; the golden candle sticks and 
 all the golden vessels about the Ark of the Covenant. 
 
 A moment the glorious vision gleamed before my eyes 
 and vanished. Only the cracked and broken stones of the 
 
 117 
 
courtyard, the Moslem Mosque behind me, and ruins all 
 about. 
 
 I have pondered on this vision, and God's reasons for 
 rearing the magnificent temple and then destroying it and 
 removing every trace of his favored servant's handiwork, 
 and the truth was borne into my mind that the vision was 
 for me. I saw the temple that I must build, pure inside 
 and out, with all the rubbish heaved out over the walls. 
 My temple made without hands must be eternal in Har- 
 mony. In my temple must be the Ark of the Covenant, 
 the Covenant of Jesus which is "Love Thy Neighbor as 
 Thyself," and is the fulfillment of the law. 
 
 How can we love our neighbor as ourselves? Saying 
 that we love our neighbor does not make it so. We must 
 show it in our works. When we bring ourselves into 
 harmonious relations with Divine love, we must neces- 
 sarily be in the same harmonious relations with our neigh- 
 bor and love him as we do ourselves. 
 
 What will be the future of Jerusalem? I gazed upon 
 the ruins and saw with the spirit of prophecy, the possi- 
 bilities which may come to pass in this historic land. Only 
 a few thousand people inhabit a country that can be made 
 to support two or three millions. The population are the 
 meanest and most degraded of people. The filth and 
 disease of their physical lives is equaled only by the mire 
 of their morals and the low average of their mentalities. 
 The weak and inefficient Sultan is allowing his power to 
 slip away from him. Concession follows concession to 
 Germans, English and French and to his own subjects. 
 
 118 
 
Divine Wisdom is working out the problem. Nations are 
 the crayons, and time the slate on which the. sum is being 
 solved, and the grand result will be, that through the 
 power of love, Jerusalem shall pass into the hands of the 
 people of Christ and the Son shall turn all over into the 
 dominion of the Father. Jerusalem shall be restored, not 
 in its original physical magnificence, but in the greater 
 glory of a spiritual reconstruction, and all nations of the 
 world shall flock to the Holy City. 
 
 119 
 
PART II. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BIRDS OF PASSAGE. 
 
 Editor Times, 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 I will leave January 12, 1908, on the Steamer Geo. 
 W. Elder, and will stop in San Francisco for six days, 
 then take the Southern Pacific via New Orleans to New 
 York. I will stop five days in Washington, D. C., where 
 I will visit the Capitol of our United States; thence go 
 on to New York, where five days will be enjoyed in the 
 wintry scenes of a great city. 
 
 I will embark Thursday, February 6th, at 8 a. m., from 
 the White Star line pier, foot of West Eleventh Street, 
 New York, on the Steamer Arabic, 16,000 tons, one of 
 the largest boats plying on the waters of the Atlantic, 
 having on board an excellent band of trained musicians, 
 which will play daily during lunch and dinner hour ; also 
 on arriving and departing from ports. 
 
 Leaving New York we will steam directly across the 
 south Atlantic to the Madeira Islands, thence to Cadiz, 
 Spain, Seville and Gibraltar, where we will enter the 
 
 121 
 
Mediterranean touching Algiers, along the African coast, 
 Malta, Athens, Constantinople, Smyrna, Rhodes and 
 Cyprus, Safia, Mount Carmel, and the Holy Land, Jeru- 
 salem, Lake Galilee and Cana of Galilee, Tiberias, Nazar- 
 eth, Mount Tabor, Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, the Wilder- 
 ness of Judea, Bethany, Joppa, Alexandria, Cairo, Naples, 
 Pompeii, Rome, Nice, Villefranche, Monte Carlo; through 
 Italy, Switzerland, Germany, France, Paris, London, 
 Stratford-on-Avon, Windsor Castle, Oxford, Warwick 
 Castle, Liverpool, Queenstown, and home to New York 
 about May 15th. 
 
 On Board S. S. Arabic, February 19, 1908. 
 Editor Times, 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 Upon leaving New York, February 6th, we had zero 
 weather. The harbor was full of ice, and the wind blow- 
 ing a regular gale. Just think how nice for a Californian. 
 
 We steamed south for 2,700 miles past the Isle of 
 Azores to Madeira, the island of sunshine, which belongs 
 to Portugal, where perennial verdure greets the eye. 
 Here a ball was given in our honor at the fine Casino. 
 Funchal, the capital, lies on an abrupt slope with moun- 
 tains towering in the background to a height of 5,000 
 feet. Owing to the steep road, the vehicles consist of 
 sleds drawn by oxen. When we arrived within six hun- 
 dred miles of Madeira we encountered Humboldt weather ; 
 its fog made me think of home. Madeira is a grand sight 
 
 122 
 
from where our ship lay at anchor in the harbor. The 
 town is built of stone painted white. I was the first one 
 to step on shore. The main places of interest are a fort 
 four hundred years old, fine parks and gardens, and the 
 small narrow streets so crooked you can't see one hun- 
 dred feet ahead. The streets and sidewalks are constructed 
 of little pebbles set on end, and they keep them greased 
 so the sleds will slide easily. These sleds are handled by 
 oxen. On the streets are seen women and children carry- 
 ing great heavy burdens on their heads. 
 
 Ample time was given at Funchal for a thorough in- 
 spection of the quaint old city. Those who wished to, took 
 the celebrated slide down the mountain, two miles on a 
 sled guided by one of the natives. 
 
 The visit to this island is seldom made by American 
 travelers, and it is viewed with great interest. Just think 
 for a moment, eight days' steady steaming on the Atlantic, 
 then to stop in sunshine, fruit and flowers. Don't you 
 think we were ready for them? 
 
 In the harbor there were about fifty small boats, with 
 two persons to a boat, one rowing and the other a diver. 
 Our people would throw in two or four bits, and before 
 it went ten feet, they would secure it; the water was 
 forty-five feet in depth where we anchored. Madeira is 
 certainly an island of flowers, and fruit and all kinds of 
 vegetables grow in abundance. 
 
 From Madeira, we steamed over the well-known track 
 of ancient navigators to Cadiz, Spain. Here we landed 
 February 19th, and took carriage drives of about three 
 
 123 
 
hours, four tourists to a carriage. Cadiz, is the famous 
 seaport from which Columbus set forth upon his wonder- 
 ful voyage of discovery. A town of 70.000 people. Here 
 we begin to tread the ground where the Apostle Paul 
 visited. Romans 15 : 24-28. 
 
 Our ship gave better service than any I have ever seen 
 in all my travels. I must say we are treated like lords. 
 
 Will write you from Constantinople, as from now on 
 we will see things of interest. 
 
 Gibraltar, February 24, 1908. 
 
 Editor Times, 
 
 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 The first visit of note we made in Cadiz, Spain, when 
 we landed February 20th, was to the cathedral built in 
 1722 and completed in 1836. This old cathedral or church 
 possesses no feature of note or beauty but the tabernacle 
 or Holy of Holies, made of solid silver, kept there and is 
 worth seeing. At the chapel of Capuchinos is a picture, 
 "The Espousal of Santa Catalina," which is fixed above 
 the high altar. This w r as Murilla's last painting the 
 vision of San Francisco. 
 
 The botanic garden is only a small garden of no note, 
 but for the fact that in the center is an excellent specimen 
 of the dragon tree, four hundred years old. At the Church 
 of San Felipe Neri, above the high altar, is a picture of 
 the Virgin, by Murillo, one of his best. 
 
 124 
 
The best club in Cadiz is at the Casino Guditano. Its 
 principal apartment, on the ground, is a beautiful speci- 
 men of Moorish architecture. 
 
 A look inside the bull ring will enable one who has 
 never seen a bull fight to form some idea of the sport.. A 
 special Spanish dance, for which this part of Spain is 
 noted, was arranged for us. It was great. 
 
 Now we leave Cadiz and take up Seville, the most in- 
 teresting town in Spain. The ride from Cadiz to Seville, 
 a distance of ninety-five miles, is through a most fertile 
 valley and beautiful country passing through the towns 
 of San Fernando, Puerta Keal, and Santa Maria, all 
 located in a rich vine-growing district. 
 
 Seville has 155,320 inhabitants, and is very prosperous. 
 It has a great deal, both in modern life as well as in 
 ancient art, to attract the traveler. The cathedral is the 
 finest in all Christendom. Its stained glass is some of 
 the finest known, enhancing the beauty of the interior and 
 glowing in the soft purple light within the lofty dome. 
 The Alcazar has beautiful Moorish arches supported by 
 double marble columns. Seville is of interest from first 
 to last. 
 
 Our boat sailed for Gibraltar, which we found to be, 
 as the old saying goes, hard as the rock of Gibraltar. The 
 steamer anchored well out in the harbor. We landed in 
 steam tenders to visit the fortifications. The British 
 fortress is considered the strongest in the world. It has 
 galleries from two or three miles in length, tunnelled 
 through the solid rock, and batteries built in all advan- 
 
 125 
 
tageous points up to 1350 feet above the sea. The 
 steamer's course is through the Mediterranean Sea and 
 eastward toward the shores of Africa. 
 
 As we sailed away the rock of Gibraltar resembled a 
 lion in its outlines. Gibraltar extends about two miles 
 north and south, and two-thirds of a mile east and west, 
 the complete circuit being seven miles. It has three sum- 
 mits. From a distance the rock stands out there but a 
 close approach shows it to be covered with vines and 
 shrubbery as though nature were trying to belie the rock 's 
 warlike reputation. The rock is honeycombed with 
 tunnels from whose port holes gunners can pour out 
 deadly fire, being in the meantime completely protected. 
 
 Two 100-ton guns, thirty-two feet long, are able to 
 throw a shot of two thousand pounds weight a distance 
 of eight miles, one accurate shot being sufficient to destroy 
 the largest ship afloat. Everywhere on the rock cameras 
 are forbidden, and sketching and taking notes are not 
 allowed. The view from the top of the rock is one of the 
 grandest in the world, overlooking both the European 
 and African continents, and the sea dotted with ships 
 from every nation in the world. Just opposite is the com- 
 panion rock, a Spanish fort named the Mount of God. 
 England has busied herself more with her fortifications 
 than with the moral and religious redemption. 
 
 The weather has been delightful, with sunshine, no 
 wind, no rain after we arrived at Madeira. And now we 
 are in the Mediterranean. 
 
 126 
 
City of Nazareth, March 5, 1908. 
 Editor Times, 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 Friday, February 28th, we visited the great city of 
 Constantinople, the capital of the Ottoman Empire, with 
 its 1,125,000 people, consisting of about one-half Turks, 
 one-quarter Greeks and the balance Armenians and Jews. 
 It is situated on the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the 
 Sea of Marmora. It contains the Palace of the Sultan, 
 and is noted for its mosques. Tcheragan Seari, the chief 
 of the imperial palaces, a building of tremendous size, 
 built of marble, is of very great magnificence in interior 
 decorations and arrangements. 
 
 Among the many interesting places we visited was 
 the Mosque of St. Sophia, founded A. D. 502, by Emperor 
 Justinian. The great dome is 105 feet in diameter, and 
 184 feet high, and has forty arched windows. In the base, 
 the aisles have galleries resting on arcades with beautiful 
 columns. Everything is covered with gold, relating to 
 altars, vaults and arches. Ten thousand people were 
 employed at its construction, and at the cost of $5,000,000. 
 
 The museum is certainly an interesting place as well 
 as the bazaars. 
 
 There are said to be 30,000 dogs in the city, and the 
 traveler is inclined to think this a rather low estimate. 
 They are without owners and are filthy, wolfish looking 
 curs. The penalty for killing a dog is three years im- 
 prisonment, while for killing a man is seven years. 
 
 One entire day was spent in carriages, seeing many 
 
 127 
 
attractions. Sunday morning, March 1st, was certainly a 
 day long to be remembered as our ship steamed up the 
 Bosphorus to the Black Sea, which is now in Russia's 
 possession. It was one of the most beautiful sights I ever 
 saw, as the shores are close in. The Turks have many 
 large and wicked looking guns stationed along the coast. 
 The Russians had better look out. 
 
 Monday, March 2nd, we landed at Smyrna, the most 
 important city in Asia Minor and chief commercial center 
 of the Levant. It was very interesting to see camels 
 loaded with merchandise, chief of which are spices, rugs, 
 emery, sponges, carpets, figs, dates, opium and embroid- 
 eries. 
 
 The bay view from Mt. Pagus is very fine. The bay or 
 Gulf of Smyrna is thirty-four miles long, one of the finest 
 bays in the Mediterranean. The distance by rail to 
 Ephesus is fifty-four miles. It was a delightful trip most 
 of the way, being along a pleasant valley which marks 
 the highway that has been traversed between Smyrna and 
 Ephesus from time immemorial. Each side of the road is 
 lined with gardens and orchards of blooming fruit trees. 
 The peasants were busy in their fields, and there were 
 numerous caravans of camels along the road. 
 
 Here is the Temple of Diana and the Roman Temple, 
 the Greek tower or prison of St. Paul, and the theatre 
 which seated 25,000 persons. The Temple of Diana has 
 sunk. Only a large hole in the ground, filled with water, 
 remains. 
 
 128 
 
Going up the steep hill to Pera, where the foreign em- 
 bassies are, are seen many churches and schools. Then 
 we noticed the many palaces of the Sultan which are very 
 fine. When he goes from one to another he is under heavy 
 guard. His subjects say he is not a happy man, if he does 
 have everything in the world, which proves that posses- 
 sions are fleeting and false, or they would bring happiness. 
 His subjects are divided in their loyalty, and he feels it. 
 
 March 4th, we steamed past the Isles of Rhodes and 
 Cyprus and reached Caifa about noon, where we took car- 
 riages for a six hour drive across the Plain of Esdraelon 
 to Nazareth. 
 
 March 5th. Here we are in Nazareth. I am sitting in 
 the hotel writing at 7 o'clock in the morning. After 
 breakfast we will visit all places of historic interest. 
 
 Later : This has been a grand day to me. We visited 
 the Church of the Annunciation, founded by Empress 
 Helena, but ruined in the Middle Ages ; afterward it was 
 rebuilt in the crypt in which is the traditional place of the 
 annunciation, the Holy Grotto. We also visited the work- 
 shop of Joseph, the Mount of Precipitation, and the 
 Galilean Hills, and many other reputed sights so intimately 
 associated with the early life of our Saviour. Then we 
 passed through Cana of Galilee. I do not wonder that 
 God chose this beautiful place to send his dear Son who 
 gives us a hope of glory, as this is the finest valley I ever 
 saw. 
 
 We crossed the great Crusader battlefield of Hattin, 
 and the traditional Mount of Beatitudes, to Tiberias on 
 
 129 
 
the shores of the Lake of Galilee. After exploring the 
 bazaar and the streets of the town, boats were provided 
 us and we made an excursion to the site of Capernaum, 
 the scene of many incidents and acts in the life of our 
 Lord, being sometimes called "His Own City." 
 
 After inspecting the many interesting ruins, some of 
 which are said to be the remains of the synagogue, we 
 passed on to Bethsaida in full view of Magdala, and re- 
 turned to Tiberias where we spent the whole day examin- 
 ing and looking at sights of sacred interest. 
 
 While in Cana of Galilee we drank from the fountain 
 from which it is said the water was procured which was 
 turned to wine. John 2 : 1-11 and 4 : 4-6. 
 
 Mount Tabor was visited. It is dome-shaped, 1800 feet 
 above sea level, and is about four miles from Nazareth. 
 From here we went to the place where He took James, 
 John and Peter, and Moses and Elias appeared. It was 
 here that Jesus fed the five thousand. 
 
 While I was at Bethsaida I thought I would like to 
 remain three years on the shores of Galilee. Dear Galilee, 
 sweet Galilee, the place where Jesus so loved to be. 
 
 Then we visited the tomb of Jonah and the place where 
 he was born. The Valley of Esdraelon is where the 
 hardest battle in all history was fought, where Saul fell 
 on his own sword. 
 
 Nazareth is a place in which I was very much inter- 
 ested where our Lord made His home for thirty years. 
 I was in his house, as it is intact yet, and saw the rock 
 on which he ate his last supper. Matt. 23 : 11. I also 
 
 130 
 
visited the hill where they tried to throw our Saviour over, 
 and He passed out of their midst; also where Elijah 
 prayed for rain, and where he killed the four hundred 
 false prophets at the Brook Kishon. I Kings, 18 : 40. 
 
 We leave tomorrow, March 9th, for Jerusalem, where 
 you will hear from me later. 
 
 Joppa, March 10, 1908. 
 Editor Times, * 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 Joppa, one of the oldest ports in the world, was where 
 Kiram King of Tyre brought the cedars of Lebanon for 
 the building of the Temple, and it was to Joppa that Jonah 
 came to find the ship in which he was to make an attempt 
 to flee from the presence of God. It is the city of Simon 
 the Tanner. We visited the house. It is a city of about 
 35,000 people, two-thirds of whom are Mohammedans. 
 About 15,000 Russian pilgrims pass through the city 
 annually. It has a large export trade in olives, figs, 
 pomegranates, apricots and especially oranges. Here the 
 Jews fall upon their knees and kiss the earth in their joy 
 at being in Palestine. So do the Russians. Here we see 
 the camels lying on the ground to receive their burdens, 
 and the natives standing idle in the market places as of 
 old. We can see Paul coming in and seeing so many idlers, 
 caused him to dispute with them in the market places. 
 
 The next place of interest is the tomb of Dorcas, cut 
 out of the solid rock, large enough to contain six people. 
 
 131 
 
Near here they point out the house of Dorcas, and the 
 house top where Peter had his wonderful vision, with its 
 lesson of today a great lesson to the world universal of 
 the Gospel of Christ and the great Brotherhood of man. 
 
 The first town of importance after leaving Joppa is 
 Lydda, mentioned in Chronicles, Ezra and Nehemiah, and 
 especially in the New Testament as the place where Peter 
 healed. It lies in the Plain of Sharon. It is the largest 
 tract in all Palestine for cultivation fifty miles long and 
 twelve miles wide. It abounds in gardens, meadows, grain 
 fields, groves of oranges and pomegranates, and in many 
 places has beautiful wild flowers. Every section about 
 me is throbbing with memories of holy writings. Here is 
 where Samuel judged the people and the Children of 
 Israel asked for a king. 
 
 Next we passed the hill Glyzer, with the extensive 
 ruins of the ancient city which was presented to Solomon 
 by his father-in-law, Pharaoh, as his daughter's dowry. 
 The next places of note are Bethsemesh and Zorah, the 
 latter being the birth place of Sampson. It was here as 
 well as at Ashdod, Gath and Akron that the Philistines 
 held the Ark, which they returned at last to the Israelites 
 because they thought it brought a curse upon them. 
 
 Next we saw the home of Sampson. Here we saw 
 high up in the rock, Sampson's Cavern. A little farther 
 up the mount, is the place where the great battles were 
 fought where blood flowed down to the sea. A few 
 traces of fortifications can be seen. 
 
 We now approach Marelyas, the site of the juniper 
 tree where Elijah was refreshed by an angel. 
 
 132 
 
Jerusalem, Palestine, March 12, 1908. 
 
 "Hail, Jerusalem, Hail." Here we are at Jerusalem, 
 the Holy City, the most sacred place on earth. You all 
 know the history of Jerusalem. A thousand years before 
 Jesus, David took from the Jebusites their stronghold. 
 II Samuel 5 : 6-7. But I will give it as I see it. 
 
 It is certainly a wonderful city. I can give you but 
 little of its descriptive grandeur, owing to limited time. 
 I am very grateful to have the pleasure of beholding it. 
 The city is enclosed by a wall which at one part is seventy 
 feet high. It is two and a half miles in circumference, and 
 has thirty-four towers and nine gates. The wall is so con- 
 structed and so thick that you can travel all around upon 
 it. The several gates are : Damascus, Herod, St. Stephen, 
 The Golden Gate, Zion Gate. The last opens near David's 
 tomb. The St. Stephen is also called St. Mary's. This is 
 where, it is said, St. Stephen was stoned to death. 
 
 Descending David Street by many broad, shallow steps, 
 we pass the grain market and bazaars, and arrive at one 
 of the gates of the Haram. The Mohammedans revere 
 Jerusalem as one of the Holy Cities, second to Mecca, but 
 for the Jews it is the only one. 
 
 The Greek Church is the strongest of the Christian 
 churches, seating 3000 pilgrims. The Holy Rock is 57 feet 
 long and 43 feet wide, rising six feet above the ground, 
 and has received the blood of innumerable sacrifices in 
 all ages. Here is where Abraham offered up his son Isaac. 
 
 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a wonder in itself 
 and should be visited in sunshiny weather, as most of the 
 
 133 
 
interior is dark and the magnificence could not be seen 
 so well in cloudy weather. Every shrine there, and almost 
 every stone, has been bathed with countless tears, and has 
 received the kisses of thousands of way-worn pilgrims. 
 
 I saw where Jesus spent his last night before the cruci- 
 fixion; and close by, the house where the Virgin dwelt 
 during the latter years of her life. Near by is where the 
 Disciples made ready the passover, and ate and drank 
 with their Master the last time. (Acts 2.) And here are 
 the tomb of the Psalmist, and many tombs of kings. Not 
 far distant are the tombs of the Judges. All the hillsides 
 around Jerusalem are filled with caverns, either natural 
 or excavated, which have served at different periods of 
 history as tombs for the dead. 
 
 At or near the Damascus Gate is where the Saviour 
 was crucified. The hill has the shape of a skull. Here 
 is where the cross stood ; near by is a cavern in the hillside 
 called the Grotto of Jeremiah where he is supposed to 
 have written the book of Lamentations. Not far is the 
 entrance to the quarries which extend under a large part 
 of the city and which are most interesting. Next we came 
 to the upper pool of Gihon, mentioned in I Kings 1 : 33-45, 
 which is partly intact. 
 
 From here we visited the Mount of Olives, and 
 Bethany, crossing the Brook Kedron and the upper part 
 of the Valley of Jehosaphat ; up a steep path is the shortest 
 way to Bethany, the way the Lord often went on his visits 
 to Martha and Mary. This path furnishes a good view of 
 the City of Jerusalem and surrounding country. 
 
 134 
 
March 13, 1908. 
 
 Today we spent at Bethlehem (meaning in Hebrew 
 "House of Bread"), where Herod the Great built a city, 
 and where he was buried. To the west lie the hills of the 
 Wilderness of Judea; to the southwest, the Hebron. In 
 the midst of the Wilderness of Judea lies Amkarin, the 
 birthplace of John the Baptist, where was heard the voice 
 of one crying in the Wilderness. 
 
 To the northwest rises the Mountains of Gibron. This 
 is the birthplace of David. (Matt. 2.) Here David was 
 anointed King by the Prophet Samuel at the Lord's com- 
 mand, and where Saul was rejected from reigning over 
 Israel (I Samuel 16), after which Bethlehem was called the 
 City of David. Here is the scene of the interesting story 
 of Ruth, Boaz and Naomi. The place has been gradually 
 rising from the ruins and is fairly prosperous, with its 
 15,000 people. All are Christians, and are distinguished 
 among the surrounding people by their energy and in- 
 telligence, and by the grace and beauty of the women. 
 
 Bethlehem is the market-place of the Dead Sea country. 
 The education of the people is well provided for. We 
 visited the Field of the Shepherds. This is a grassy plain 
 where the shepherds were abiding keeping watch over 
 their flocks by night, and where appeared unto them the 
 Angel of the Lord bringing good tidings. Just beyond, 
 near the summit of Mount Olives and near the city, are 
 being excavated some very fine ancient ruins. Near here 
 at Bethpage is where the ass was secured on which our 
 Lord entered Jerusalem. 
 
 135 
 
I entered the tomb of Lazarus and the house of Martha 
 and Mary. Down on the slope of Mount Olives was 
 pointed out by the guide, the Pillar of Absolom (Jer. 
 31:40), which he reared up for himself during his life 
 time. It is customary for the Jews to pelt it with stones 
 as they pass by, because of his disobedience to his father, 
 David. 
 
 Here is the tomb of James which the Jews reverence 
 on account of James prophesying to the children of Israel 
 when the Lord shall be king over all the earth. 
 
 We then passed the Mount of Scandal or Mount of 
 Offense, where stood immense harems built by King Solo- 
 mon, and where his heart was turned away to worshipping 
 other gods. On the slope of this mountain is a small 
 village called Siloam, inhabited by Arabs. Five minutes 
 walk brings us to the fountain of St. Mary's well. Mary 
 is said to have washed her babe's clothes in the waters. 
 Since then it has become a favorite bath with the women 
 of the neighborhood. The upper pool of Siloam, where 
 Jesus sent the man to wash who was blind from birth 
 (John 9:7) is near the fountain of the Virgin. 
 
 From this point a path leads to the low*er pool of 
 Siloam which is inside the ancient wall. At the place 
 where the valley of Hinnom and Jehosaphat meets is 
 Jacob 's well ; it is called the well of Neamiah (Josh. 15 : 7) . 
 This well has excellent water. From this point Mt. Zion 
 rises steeply to the northwest across the valley of Hinnom 
 by the hill of Evil Counsel. This valley is where the 
 cruel human sacrifices were offered to Baalim and Moloch 
 
 136 
 
(II Chron. 28 : 13, 30 ; 1 : 6) . It is also the field of blood 
 that was bought by Judas for thirty pieces of silver for 
 betraying his Master. Here Judas hung himself from a 
 tree which is still pointed out to travelers. 
 
 Palestine is overrun with pilgrims from all parts of 
 the world, and they have many different forms of worship 
 but all believe in Christ except the Jews and the Turks, 
 and they do in a way. And a great many believe in 
 divine healing and practice it. They have a pool they 
 wash in, and they say Jesus Christ heals the water. 
 
 My next in a few days will be from Cairo, Egypt. 
 
 Cairo, Egypt, March 22, 1908. 
 Editor Times, 
 
 Eureka, California. 
 
 The most interesting sight I ever witnessed on the 
 streets of any city is here. While sitting on the terrace 
 or veranda watching the people and studying them. I 
 will state as briefly as possibly my impressions. 
 
 Scarcely any city in the world presents such life in its 
 streets Egyptian women with blue gowns and their faces, 
 below the eyes, hid by hideous black figured veils; 
 bedouins from the desert, with their striped turbans; a 
 Pasha in state, bent on making an official visit; a large 
 camel train laden with Oriental merchandise passing in 
 the midst of trolley cars and automobiles ; a woman with 
 baskets of poultry on a donkey, or driving a flock of 
 turkeys and guiding their movements with a palm branch ; 
 
 137 
 
a milk man driving his cows and milking them in public 
 for his waiting customers ; a wedding procession preceded 
 by a group of dancing girls; two half masked mounted 
 Turks engaging in a pretended combat; the gaudily be- 
 decked bride riding in a gorgeous howdah borne by a 
 camel, with others carrying furniture and presents; a 
 funeral procession, with black-shrouded professional 
 mourners howling their grief. It is certainly one of the 
 busiest scenes I ever witnessed. 
 
 The Nile is one of the great rivers of the world. I 
 took a trip up to Memphis on a boat and had a fine oppor- 
 tunity to see sights. We passed the Island of Roda. Here 
 is the place where Moses was found among the flags on 
 the bank of the river, the so-called place where Pharoah 's 
 daughter could see from the mansion. 
 
 Memphis (Isaiah 19 : 13) seems to mean the abode of 
 good, or the tomb of the good men. 
 
 The Pyramids belong to the Memphis era. They are 
 all on the east side of the river. As we pass the village 
 we came to the colossal statues of Rameses II, one being 
 twenty-five feet long, another forty-two feet, and are of 
 excellent workmanship. 
 
 The Pyramid here goes back to King Zoses of the 
 third dynasty, hence one of the oldest. Here is where the 
 sacred bull of the god Ptah was embalmed. There is one 
 tomb after another, reaching to a length of one thousand 
 and forty feet, ten feet wide and sixteen feet high, all 
 hewn from the solid rock. The tomb chambers are rich 
 in representations of wild and domestic animals and a 
 
 138 
 
great many other things too numerous to mention. They 
 claim 100,000 men were occupied twenty years in building 
 them. Some have a height of 451 feet and a length on 
 each side of 750 feet. I noticed one inscription, "Death 
 is the end of life. Oh why should life all laborious be? 
 Let us alone." 
 
 Six miles from Cairo is the place where Joseph and 
 Mary and the babe lived while in Egypt. Here is a well 
 they claim was a salt well until Mary washed the child's 
 clothes in it, then it became sweet. Here also is a large 
 tree that they say was here at the time. It looks like it, 
 as it is very old. The people come from far and near to 
 get this water and when they come near they make a bow 
 and say, "This is holy ground." 
 
 Naples, March 31, 1908. 
 
 Naples has a population of 595,890 and is the largest 
 city in Italy. It occupies one of the most beautiful sites 
 in the world, its bay having been an object of praise from 
 ancient time. 
 
 Naples is a place described as a paradise inhabited by 
 devils. Men and boys are idle. They cheat, steal, and are 
 content with a single meal a day. Girls are beautiful, but 
 that is all you can say. They dance in the streets for 
 money. The city is given up to badness, but in the middle 
 classes they have a great deal of good in them, and there 
 is reform among them. I talked with some. They live 
 in constant dread of Mt. Vesuvius. It varies in height, 
 
 139 
 
according to the effect of eruptions, from 3900 to 4300 
 feet. I will take up something more interesting, as Naples 
 has not much interest to me. 
 
 We next visited Pompeii. This is certainly a great 
 ruin, fifteen miles from Naples, and is covered with ashes 
 from eight to twenty feet deep. In 1860 the Italian gov- 
 ernment began a systematic uncovering of the buried city. 
 It certainly is a place of interest to the man that seeks 
 information. About six hundred bodies have been found, 
 and only about half of the city has been unearthed. There 
 are many human forms found, formed by the hardened 
 ashes around the cavity left by the decayed body. I saw 
 one, the figure of a young girl, evidently overtaken in 
 sleep, as her countenance was in a state of perfect repose. 
 It is most striking. Also one of a mother and daughter, 
 lying close together; and the skeletons of horses, dogs 
 and cats. 
 
 Rome, March 30, 1908. 
 
 It is impossible here for me to hint at the course of 
 events that have helped to make Rome one of the world 
 centers of conquest, religion and art through nearly three 
 thousand years. It is impossible to do Rome in a few days. 
 I was very much favored. On this, my last day spent in 
 Rome, I was invited to see sights with a party of twenty- 
 three in a large auto, and a fine guide. It was certainly 
 interesting. It would pay any one to see Rome. 
 
 140 
 
The Coliseum is a large amphitheatre which will seat 
 50,000. During the one hundred-day festivities that 
 marked the opening of the Coliseum by Titus, 80 A. D., it 
 is said that five thousand wild animals were killed. It is 
 prophesied that when it falls Rome will fall. 
 
 Here is the prison where St. Paul and Peter were im- 
 prisoned, and in it is a large spring which was produced 
 by Peter to have water to bathe his jailors in. St. John's 
 church is fine. It dates back to Constantine. 
 
 I will give but a few hints as to the magnificence of 
 the Church of St. Peter, which is the finest in the world 
 and cannot be described in one letter. It was built by 
 Constantine upon the site of the Circus of Nero. The cost 
 of the main buildings was about $60,000,000, but they 
 could not be reproduced in our day for many times that 
 sum. Its length is 6131/2 feet and its width 466% feet 
 with a dome the interior of which is 440 feet. It is claimed 
 that on Easter Sunday between 80,000 and 90,000 find 
 standing room. 
 
 We passed a slab where the Emperors were formerly 
 crowned. To the right is the statue of St. Peter, in bronze, 
 of rude workmanship, but exercising a wonderful power 
 over the imagination of the people, the right foot being 
 worn smooth by the kisses of the devotees. Looking up 
 in the great dome we see letters in mosaic, six feet high, 
 saying, "Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build 
 my church. And I will give unto thee the keys of the 
 Kingdom of Heaven." 
 
 141 
 
The next is a column, brought from Jerusalem, against 
 which Jesus leaned in the Temple while disputing with 
 the doctors. We see the tomb of Leo XII, once Peter's 
 chair. Here we see a painting of St. Peter healing the 
 lame man. Then the tomb of Pope Leo XIII, who was 
 placed there in July, 1903, until his monument elsewhere 
 can be completed. 
 
 St. Paul's Church outside of the gates is the hand- 
 somest church in Rome. It was consecrated in 1854, and 
 the costly material of the interior creates a most imposing 
 effect. Here are three springs. It is said that when Paul 
 was beheaded, his head made three bounds and when it 
 struck there came forth these springs very close together, 
 about two feet apart. 
 
 We leave April 1st for Villefranche, where I will take 
 my trip over Europe. The next letter will be from Paris. 
 
 The Riviera, April 9, 1908. 
 
 The good ship came to anchor in the Villefranche Bay 
 which can accommodate the largest vessels in the world, 
 and is a small town of about 4000 people. A drive from 
 Villefranche to Monte Carlo makes this part of the Riviera 
 remarkable. We here had a drive of fifteen miles over 
 the upper Cornish road, returning by the lower Cornish 
 road, seven miles. 
 
 This drive gives the most varied and beautiful views 
 of the Mediterranean, as the carriages wind among the 
 mountains at a height of 1200 feet the marvelous vegeta- 
 
 142 
 
tion and abundant wild flowers, the ancient castles and 
 ruins and modern villas and picturesque white villages, 
 together with the splendid views of the sea, altogether 
 serve to make a setting that has few equals. It is no 
 wonder that the Cornish roads are described as the most 
 beautiful in Europe. 
 
 Nice lies two miles beyond Villefranche and is a city 
 of 90,000 with the river Pallion flowing through the city. 
 Nice has an attractive location with a surrounding amphi- 
 theatre of hills, which are charmingly diversified with 
 villas, vineyards and gardens. Nice spares no pains in 
 entertaining visitors. Everything is overrun by sight- 
 seeing. 
 
 Monte Carlo lies five miles beyond Nice, and exceeds 
 all other points on the Riviera in beautiful scenery. The 
 Casino is a showy structure, decorated with statutes and 
 paintings, and with its grounds well supplied with a 
 selection of trees and shrubs, all the varieties of the palm 
 family. The brilliant throngs of people which are wont 
 to gather here from all parts of the world add to the 
 fascination of the place. 
 
 There is much talk of suppressing the gambling tables. 
 It is said that the governments of France and Italy are 
 to take steps to close them as many players lose their 
 fortunes and then end their lives. 
 
 Everything is free to visitors, reading rooms supplied 
 with European and American papers, and a concert hall 
 in which one of the finest orchestras in Europe, consisting 
 of eighty pieces, gives a daily performance. 
 
 143 
 
From Nice we took train across Europe, through Italy, 
 Switzerland and Germany, to Paris. This is the finest 
 scenery on the whole trip, with its snow-capped mountains. 
 We were four days crossing Europe. 
 
 Paris is too much for me to write on. I cannot do it 
 justice, and London the same. The better way is to come 
 and see them. I would not miss the trip for what little 
 it costs. It is a trip every one should take. 
 
 144 
 
The Author expresses his gratefulness for the assist- 
 ance obtained from "The Mediterranean Traveler" a 
 book of great value to the tourist in Mediterranean coun- 
 tries and the Holy Land. 
 
I - 
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