THE BUDGET CLOSED BY JANE ANTHONY EAMES, AUTHOR OF "A BUDGET OP LETTERS," " ANOTHER BUDGET," &C. BOSTON: TICKNOR AND FIELDS. MDCCCLX. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1860, by JAKE A. EAMES, In the Clerk's Office of the District. Court of the District of New Hampshire. PRINTED BY WM. BUTTERFIELD, PATRIOT OFFICE, CONCORD, N. H. TO HON. CARROLL SPENCE, LATE UNITED STATES MINISTER TO THE SUBLIME PORTE, THIS VOLUME IS, BY PERMISSION, DEDICATED, IX GRATITUDE FOR NUMEROUS ACTS OF KINDNESS AND ATTENTION, WHILE IN CONSTANTINOPLE AND ITS ENVIRONS. PREFACE. I do not know as it is necessary for me to apologize to the public in general, and my own friends in particu- lar, for so long delaying to bring before them THE BUDGET CLOSED. I will, therefore, pass over in silence the reasons I might give for this delay, and will merely say that those who followed us in our boat life, our journey across the Desert, and our sojourn in the Holy Land, will, I hope, find something to interest them in the present volume. CONCORD, N. H., Sept., 1860. TABLE OF CONTENTS. LETTER XLV. Departure from Smyrna. Crowded Steamboat. Gallipoli. Arrival at Constantinople. Geography of the place. Wooden Houses. Singu- lar looking Carriages. Streets of Pera. Beautiful View. Large Cemetery, 1 LETTEE XLVI. Over to Constantinople. Bridge. Varied Scene. Thousand and one Columns. Hippodrome. Janizaries. Burnt Pillar. Bazaars. Re- turn to Pera. Sunset Scene, 9 LETTER XLVH. Queen's Birthday. Dogs. Marvellous Story. Caiques. Scutari. Disappointment. Tophana. Review of English Troops. Araba. Another Carnage. Chrysopolis. Cemetery. Lovely Country. Bul- ghurlhu. Extensive View. Adventure. Return to Pera, 20 LETTER XL VIII. Buyukdere. Unquiet Nights. Ramazan. Night Scene. Galata. Walls of the City. Seven Towers. Costumes. Palace of the Seraskier. Extensive View, 28 LETTER XLIX. The Sultan. Dervishes. Valley of Sweet Waters. Attractive Scene. Cemetery. Mosque of Eyoub, 35 Vlll CONTENTS. LETTER L. The Seraglio. Sublime Porte. Church of St. Irene. Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia. Sultan Achmet. Sultan Mahmoud. Sultan Sulyman, 42 LETTEE LI. English Church. Beauties of the Bosphorus. Castles of Asia and Eu- rope. Black Sea. The Sultan. American Minister. Life at Bnyuk- dere. Sweet Waters of Asia. Letters from Home, 52 LETTER LII. Sir Stephen Lakeman. Mr. E.'s departure for Schumla. Kindness of American Minister. Bebec. American Missionaries. Annual Meet- ing of Bible Society. Large Sycamores. Fine Ride. Bendt. Forest of Belgrade. Cottage of Lady Montague. Giant's Mountain. Le- gends. Genoese Castle. Shopping in Pera. Symplegades, .57 LETTER LIII. Daily Routine. Adventure. Feast of the Beiram. Close of the Ra- mazan. Night Scene on the Bosphorus. Mr. Brown. Scene at Dawn. Seraglio. Kissing the Feet. The Sultan, 66 LETTER LIV. Garden of the Russian Embassy. Sweet Waters of Asia. Return from the Wars. Fourth of July. Turkish Bath, 79 LETTER LV. Departure from Buyukdere. Austrian Steamer. Scene on Board. Beautiful Girl. Dardanelles. Mitylene. Isles of Greece. Smyrna. Austrian Officer. Delos. Syra. Quarantine. Discomfort. Arrival at Athens. Palace. Hotel des Etrangeres, 84 LETTER LVI. Situation of Athens. Stadium. Fountain of Callirrhoe. Thyme. Tem- ple of Jupiter Olympus. Ruins of Greece. Arch of Hadrian. Monu- ment of Lysicrates. Acropolis. Parthenon. Temple of Victory without wings. The Erectheum. View from the Acropolis. Tomb of Miller. Garden of Plato. Sunset, 97 CONTENTS. IX LETTER LVII. English Church King and Queen of Greece. Tower of the Winds. Agora. Mars Hill. Pnyx. Prison of Socrates. Sliding Stone. Tem- ple of Theseus. Garden of the Palace, 112 LETTEE LVIII. Prisoners. Cholera at the Piraeus. Trip to Pentelicus. Grand view from the Summit. Marathon. Euboea. Isles. Mountains. Sacred Way. Daphne. Bay of Eleusis. Eleusis. Remains of Temple of Ceres. Megara. Lovely Sunsets. Queen Amelia. King Otho. State of Greece. Rev. Mr. Hill. Episcopal Mission. Phalerum. Sickness, 120 LETTER LIX. Prospects for Departure. Queen's Farm. Garden of the Palace. Greek Costume. Lycabettus. View from top Acropolis. Sunset. Parthe- non by Moonlight. Farewell to Friends. Cavia. Maid of Athens,. . . 131 LETTER LX. Departure from Athens. Hindrances. Arrival at Syra. Trouble about Lodgings. Syra. Evening Promenades. Tinos. Miraculous Shrine. Exquisite Views. Old Town. Convent. Church of St. George. Delicious Evenings, , 140 LETTER LXI. Departure from Syra. Incident. Pleasant voyage. Piraeus. Cerigo. Modon. Navarino. Zante. Ionian Islands. Cephalonia. Ithaca. St. Maura. Paxos. Corfu. Ruins of Pola. Trieste, 147 LETTER LXII. Diligence. Grotto of Adelsberg. Laibach. Railroad. Beautiful Coun- try. Arrival at Vienna, 156 LETTER LXIII. Situation of Vienna. Walls. Glacis. Suburbs. St. Stephen's Church. Companions in Sight-seeing. Belvedere Palace. Lower Belvedere. Atnbras Collection. Church of the Capuchins. Hotel. Imperial Pal- ace. State Carriages. Schonbrunn. Dinner in the open air. The Prater. Gardens, 163 X CONTENTS. LETTER LXIV. Copy of Last Sapper. Monument of Archduchess Christina. Imperial Library. Cabinet of Minerals. Arsenal. Dance. Imperial Printing Office. Polytechnic Institution. Public Garden, 175 LETTEE LXV. Excursion into Hungary. The Danube. Marchfield. Presburg. Cali- fornia of Hungary. Islands. Komorn. Magyars. Gran. Vissa- grad. Pesth. Buda, 182 LETTEE LXVI. Up the Danube. Linz. Fine View. Politeness. Fertile Country. 'Gmunden. Traun-see. Ischl. The Emperor, Francis Joseph. Cos- tumes. Beautiful Scenes. Salt Bath, 189 LETTEE LXVH. Departure from Ischl. Open carriage. Mountainous Country. Wolf- gang-see. Churches. Cemeteries. Beggars. Students. Travelling Journeymen. Salzburg. Queen of Prussia. Ex-Empress of Austria. The Square. Birthplace of Mozart, 198 LETTEE LXVIII. Quiet Sunday. Visit to salt mines. Costume for the mines. Amusing appearance. Mode of getting the salt. Chambers. Inclined planes. Wooden Horse. Miners. Hollbrunn. Promenades, 204 LETTEE LXIX. Leaving Salzburg. Grand Scenery. Cheap Travelling. Innsbruck. Sight-seeing. Cathedral. Monument to Hofer. Tomb of Maximil- ian I. Ambras Chateau, 213 LETTEE LXX. Mountainous Scenes. Achensee. Kreuth. Tegernsee. Munich. House of Lola Montes. St. Michael's Church. Pinacotheque. Crys- tal Palace. Eoyal Palace, 219 CONTENTS. XI LETTER LXXI. Expense of Travel. Romish Churches. Public Garden. Parks. Mu- seum. Royal Library. Ancient Pinacothek. Glyptothek. Church of St. Boniface. Bavarian Hall of Fame. Ludwig Schwanthaler. Statue of Bavaria. English Garden, 227 LETTER LXXII. Augsburg. The Three Moors. Augsburg Confession. Fuggerville. Nuremberg. The Red Steed. Objects of Interest. Caspar Hauser. Manufactures and Inventions. Passport Arrangements. Crown Prin- cess of Saxony. Leipsic. University. The Battle Ground. Monu- ment of Poniatowski. Rosenthal, .236 LETTER LXXm. Dresden. Hotel Bellevue. Currency. Japanese Palace. Bridge over the Elbe. Historical Museum. Table d'hote. Bruhl Terrace. Dog- carts. Romish Church. English Church, 242 LETTER LXXIV. Picture Gallery. Royal Palace. Green Vaults. Pleasant Surprise. Cabinet of Minerals. Environs of Dresden. Plauen. Tharand. New Town, 247 LETTER LXXV. Departure from Dresden. Tetzel's Box. Obelisk. Hill of the Cross. Berlin. British Hotel. Linden Trees. Street of Palaces. Branden- burg Gate. Park. Monument of Frederick the Great. Streets. Ber- lin Iron. Potsdam. Royal Palace. Sans-souci. Windmill. New Palace. Antique Temple. Charlottenkof. Russian Colony. Burial Place of Frederick the Great. Voltaire's Residence, 253 LETTER LXXVI. Chamber of Art. Picture Gallery. Sculpture Gallery. New Museum. Zoological Collection. Porcelain Manufactory. Pleasant Meeting. 262 LETTER LXXVII. Charlottenburg. Louisa of Prussia. The late King. The Spree. English Chapel. Disappointment. Cathedral. Difference between Protestant and Catholic Countries, 268 Xii CONTENTS. LETTER LXXVIII. Wittenberg. Church. Burial place of Luther and Melancthon. House of Melancthon. Statue of Luther. University. Oak Tree. Church where Luther preached. Railway Carriages. Smoking. Dessau. Birthplace of Mendelssohn. Halle. Interesting Day. Historical As- sociations. Jena. Weimar. Erfurt. Eisenach. Castle of Wart- burg. Reminiscences of Luther. Exquisite View. Sebastian Bach, 272 LETTER LXXIX. Cassel. Hessian Troops. Slow Train. Broom-sellers. Frankfort-on- the-Maine. Hotel de Russie. Old Town. New Town. The Jews. Rothschilds' House. Suburbs. Zeil. Town House. Statue of Goethe. Museum. Dannecker's Ariadne. Cemetery. Mirrors in Windows, 284 LETTER LXXX. Heidelberg. University. Church of the Holy Ghost. St. Peter's Church. Jerome of Prague. Olimpia Morata. Ruins of the Old Castle. Wolf-spring. Mannheim. The Rhine. Worms. Wiesba- den. Kursaal. Taste for Flowers, 291 LETTER LXXXI. Quiet Sunday. Lutheran Service. English Service. Gardens. Music. Platte. Donkey Riding. Mineral Bath. Concert. Kursaal. Law against Gambling, 297 LETTER LXXXII. The Rhine. Legends. Vintage. Steinberg. Johannisberg. Spark- ling Moselle. Coblentz. Ehrenbreitstein. Royal Family. Stolzen- fels. The Lahn. Monument. The Moselle. The Rhine. Seven Mountains. Bonn. Dinner. Bill of Fare 300 LETTER LXXXIII. Cologne. Bad Smell. Eau de Cologne. Church of Santa Maria. St. Peter's Church. Rubens. Marie de Medici. Cathedral. St. Ur- sula. Town Hall. Deutz, 308 CONTENTS. LETTER LXXXIV. Down the Khine. Eain. Arnhem. Amsterdam. Peculiar Features of Holland. Windmills. Amsterdam. Quaintness. Canals. Head- dress. Museum. Palace. Pleasant Meeting, 313 LETTER LXXXV. English Church. Orphan House. Ship Canal. Broek. Excessive Cleanliness. Toll. Civility. Streets of Amsterdam. Incident,. .317 LETTER LXXXVI. Haarlem. Environs. Village of the Washerwomen. Method of drain- ing the Lake. Nurseries. Large Organ. State House. Leyden.* The Hague .Museum. Gallery of Paintings. Royal Library. Scheveningen. Bosch, 321 LETTER LXXXVII. Ryswick. Delft. Schiedam. Rotterdam. Statue of Erasmus. Church of St. Lawrence. Organ. Country Houses. Dort. The Schelde. Arrival in Antwerp. Loss of the Arctic. Decline of Antwerp. The Cathedral. The Spire. Chime of Bells. Magnificent View. Interior of the Church. Paintings by Rubens. St. Paul's Church. St. Jacques' Church. Docks. Rubens. Hotel de Ville. Exchange. Costumes. 329 LETTER LXXXVIH. Ghent. Church of St. Bavon. St. Michael's Church,, The Belfry. Prison. Incident. Town Hall. Friday Market. Quaint Houses. Ruins. Nunnery. Bruges. Hospital of St. John. Church of Notre Dame. Cathedral. Town Hall. Palace of Justice. The Halls. Chime of Bells. Belgian Officers, 340 LETTER LXXXDL Rain. Mechlin. Vilvorde. Arrival at Brussels. Fish. Place-Royal Statue of Godfrey of Bouillon. Arcade. The Park. Rue Royale. Gallery of Pictures. The Cathedral. Funeral Ceremony. Lace Man- ufactory. The Grande Place. Hotel de Ville. Incident. The House of the King, 349 LETTER XC. Changeable Weather. Visit to Waterloo. Sergeant Munday. Field of Battle. Brilliant Display. More Rain. Disappointment, 356 XIV CONTENTS. LETTER XCI. At Home in Paris. Examination of Luggage. Hotel Bedford. Famil- iar Sights and Sounds. Cafe. Champs Elysees. Madeleine. Last Days in Paris, 360 LETTER XCII. Retrospect. Leaving Paris. Crossing the Channel. Dover. Arrival in London. Occupations. Novelty. Review, 364 LETTERS. LETTER XLV. Departure from Smyrna. Crowded Steamboat. Gallipoli. Arrival at Constantinople. Geography of the place. Wooden Houses. Singu- lar looking Carriages. Streets of Pera. Beautiful View. Large Cemetery. CONSTANTINOPLE, May 22d. MY DEAR P. : I am sure you will unite with us in gratitude to our Heavenly Father, for bringing us safely through our journey in Asia, and landing us once more on the shore of Europe. And as I say to myself, " we are again in Euroj>e," it seems to me we are almost at home ; and though months must elapse before we can see your dear faces once more, our steps are homeward turned, and that of itself has a peculiar charm. We arrived here early on Monday morning, and hav- ing secured good accommodations (a difficult thing just now, when there are so many foreigners here,) at the " Hotel de Byzance," we at once commenced the duties of sight-seeing, which are doubly fatiguing here, from the heat of the weather and the wretched pavement of the streets. I am sorry that I can give you no information con- cerning the voyage from Smyrna here, for I really know 2 LETTERS. nothing of what there could have been seen outside the steamer. We left on Saturday afternoon, and, as I wrote you, the steamer was crowded with soldiers, which effectually prevented my going on deck, till after they had disembarked, on Sunday, at Gallipoli, and then the decks were so dreadfully dirty, I could not stay there with any degree of comfort. You can imagine some- what the state of the upper deck, when I tell you six hundred soldiers had been quartered there for nine days, two or three of which had been very stormy, and there being two pipes to the steamer, a vast amount of cinders had collected on the deck, which there seemed to be no disposition to clean off, even after the troops had disem- barked. I felt so very anxious, however, to see some- what of the country, that I attempted two or three times to go on deck ; and by standing on a camp-stool, and stretching out my neck, I made out to see a bit of blue sea and a hill, but except that, I literally saw nothing save soldiers and dirt. However, on our way to Athens, I believe the steamer will touch at Smyrna, when I shall hope to make amends for seeing nothing on my first voyage from there, for I am sure it must have been full of interest, coming, as we did, from the Gulf of Smyrna into the Archipelago, studded with islands, dear with their classical associations, and then entering the narrow Straits of Dardanelles, which connect the Archi- pelago with the Sea of Marmora. At Gallipoli we stopped several hours, but I did not go on shore, as I could see the town from the steamer, and the encampment was too far from the harbor to walk there with comfort. I saw the hills that rise up back of Gallipoli, and at their feet the town, a mass of stone houses, interspersed with a few trees, and at a LETTERS. 3 distance, the white tents of the troops, scattered along the valley and on the hillsides. The cabin of the steamer was very comfortable, though we could not get a state-room together ; in fact, the first night, Mr. E. slept on a narrow sofa, and the last, had a berth in a small cabin, with three other gentlemen. I was in the ladies' cabin, a small room, with five French ladies, who chattered like a parcel of magpies. The table was good, and we had every thing to satisfy our wants, as long as those wants were confined to the cabin, and as we did not have to pay any thing additional, we passed over the discomforts of the troops and the dirt as well as we could. As I wrote you from Beyroot, six francs extra a day are charged each passenger for board, but as Mr. E. had no bed the first night, the steward would not take the twenty-four francs due for our board. Liberal for him, and exceedingly gratifying to us. As early this morning as I possibly could get ready in a small cabin with five other ladies, I dressed myself and went on deck, not a whit cleaner than it was the day before. But I thought not of the dirt, when I saw the view from the steamer, for Constantinople, "the magnificent," was before us. How queenly she looked, seated on her seven hills, her stupendous domes, and towering minarets, and slender cypresses seeming to pierce the sky ! Was there ever a lovelier sight ? Walls and towers, and palaces and mosques and gar- dens, passed all too quickly, and one exclamation of admiration had scarcely died away, when another broke forth. The Marmora stretched behind us, sparkling and blue, and before us, it narrowed off till it was fairly merged in the Straits of the Bosphorus, which connect it with the Black Sea. I was so absorbed in looking at 4 LETTERS. the city, I scarcely saw the rock-girt isles in the Mar- mora, nor the Asiatic shore beyond. At last the anchor was dropped, and we were sur- rounded by a crowd of boats and long, slender caiques, and after not a little confusion and jabbering in un- known tongues, ourselves and our luggage were safely deposited in a large boat, and we were rapidly rowed to the shore, and after an interval of more than seven months, found ourselves again in Europe. And now, before I go farther, I will take the geogra- pher's vocation, and describe more particularly the sit- uation of Constantinople, for fear you may not have a good map on hand, and in order that you may form a clear conception of its numerous spots of interest, and its different localities. On the south, Constantinople lies on the Sea of Mar- mora, while on the opposite side sweeps down the coast of Asia, backed, at a distance, by the lofty range of Taurus, whose summits glitter with snow. On the west, it lies on the Bosphorus , having opposite to it, on the Asiatic side, the town of Scutari in the foreground, its immense cemetery containing a forest of dark cypresses, and its stupendous barracks, and the background formed by rolling hills, studded with palaces and gardens. Rounding the point on which Constantinople projects into the Bosphorus, an arm of the straits makes up, termed the " Golden Horn," and on the opposite side of this, and extending round to the Bosphorus, lie the suburbs of Constantinople, Galata, Pera and Tophana. These suburbs are mostly inhabited by what is termed the Christian population, a mixture of every nation, and almost of every religion, under the sun. Here the am- bassadors from foreign courts reside ; here the wealthy LETTERS. 5 merchants and bankers transact their business, and a thousand petty traders and craftsmen attend to their various vocations. Constantinople, or as it is termed by the natives, Stamboul, is connected with its suburbs by three bridges thrown across the Golden Horn, and these, with their crowd of motley passengers, and the thousand little caiques darting hither and thither, pre- sent at all times an animating and ever varying sight. Having now stirred up your memories in relation to the geographical position of Constantinople, in which general name I include Pera, Galata and Tophana, though here they are spoken of as quite distinct, I come back once more to the period of our arrival. Our keys were demanded, and our luggage slightly examined, nothing undergoing any scrutiny, except my worsted work. Our luggage, and that of the party with us, was strapped on the backs of porters, who, bending almost double under their load, staggered up the hill. And what a hill it was ! Steep and crooked, and withal paved with such stones, that I defy any one to walk on them with any thing like grace or ease. We were in a new world, for we saw, what we have not seen since we left home, wooden houses, but not such houses as we should see in the United States ; for they all have more or less an oriental look, some being of fantastic architecture, and almost all having little balconies and narrow latticed windows, and large clumsy doors, with ungainly knockers. Then we met Turk- ish women, in their cloaks or mantles of various colors, and their faces concealed by their " yashmacks," formed by two pieces of muslin, the one covering the head, and reaching down to the eyebrows, the other being bound tight across the lower part of the face, covering even 6 LETTERS. the nose and mouth, so that it is a mystery to me how they breathe. Their feet, often without stockings, are encased in overgrown boots of yellow morocco, thrust into slippers of the same color, without heel-pieces, so that there is nothing but the toe to keep the foot in its place, and the consequence is, they shuffle along when they walk, with the most awkward, ungainly gait imag- inable. Their cloaks or mantles, or whatever they are called, are entirely different in their shape from any thing we have seen before ; they are not very full, but have a long square cape hanging down behind, and as they wrap themselves closely in them, probably to keep from showing the dress beneath, they do not present the most elegant figures in the world. They seem to affect gay colors ; for some of the cloaks (I declare I don't know what else to call them) are red and green, and pink and yellow, and as they are all bound with black, they really look quite fantastic. But as many of the faces are very pale, and unearthly looking, with their covering of thin white muslin, bound in such a manner around them, I am sure if they would shut their eyes, they would look like corpses prepared for burial. Another strange thing we saw too carriages in some of the streets ; but although I have seen them more than once, I despair, as yet, of giving you a correct descrip- tion of them, so utterly unlike are they to any thing of the vehicle kind ever before seen. At first sight, I should say they were antique specimens, as they look somewhat like that old carriage that was paraded through our streets on July 4th, 1853, which doubtless you all re- member, as it excited much attention at the time ; but when I saw the elaborate carving and gilding which LETTERS. 7 adorned them, I concluded they must be of more modern date. At last, after much toil, and turning many corners, and walking through an abundance of narrow streets, some of them not over and above fragrant, we arrived at that part of Pera where our hotel is situated, and after a little brushing up and prinking, we were once more in the street, on our way to see the " lions." Mr. F. hearing of our arrival, came at once to see us, and he, with two other Americans and an English gentleman whom we met on the steamer, joined with us in forming a party, and engaging a guide to go around with us. The guide is a Greek, and as he speaks French and Italian very well, and English in a perfectly incomprehensible manner, he generally speaks to us in French. As it was late in the morning before we went out, we confined ourselves to Pera and its immediate environs, and found a good many things in our long walk to interest us, though I do not know as the recital of them will prove as interesting to you. We walked through the principal street of Pera, which looks more like a street in an European than in an Eastern town ; for on both sides we saw shops displaying European goods in such a variety that I, long deprived of seeing any thing of " the fashions," had to stop a great many times to stare at bonnets, and muslins, and laces, and ribbons, and materials for dresses, and at ladies and gentlemen in European costume. We walked on and on, till we passed the houses and shops, and came to large barracks and a parade ground, and beyond, on a hill, stopped at a cafe", from the garden of which we had a magnificent view of the Bos- phorus. We were tired and warm, and as we could 8 LETTERS. not get any ices, we thought we would try some of the far-famed Turkish sherbets. We were asked what kind we would take, as they had different syrups from which the drink was made. I chose cherry, for I fancied that would be particularly nice ; but it was well I was told it was cherry, for otherwise I should never have been able to form even a conjecture of what I was drinking. But no description can do justice to the view from this height ; and although in my different travels I have seen many fine views, I don't know when one has pleased me more than this. Below us lay palaces and mosques, and villages with their oriental looking houses ; beyond, was the blue Bosphorus, with ships from all nations lying there, and hundreds of little caiques darting hither and thither, while on the Asiatic side were other palaces and mosques and villages, and behind them, hills dotted with sunny fields, and beautiful gardens, and handsome little summer houses and chateaus. A little way beyond us, on the shore of the Bosphorus, we saw the new palace of the Sultan, an immense edifice of white stone, not yet completed. Around us were large palaces, used for different purposes, some for barracks, some for col- leges, and others for hospitals. But perhaps as striking a feature as any, was the ex- tensive cemetery on our right, where the thick grove of cypress trees made an almost impervious shade. I can- not say that these Turkish cemeteries throw me into such ecstasies of delight as some travellers have indulged in, for, with the exception of the tall, dark cypress, there is nothing beautiful about them. They all look sadly neglected, and the white head-stones, surmounted by the gilded turban or the red tarboosh, and adorned with LETTERS. 9 Turkish inscriptions, are often leaning on one side, and many of them are entirely prostrate. For my first letter from Constantinople, written at intervals hastily snatched amid the confusion incidental on arriving at a strange place, I flatter myself I have done pretty well, in quantity, at least, if not in quality. I dated this letter " Constantinople" purposely, although we are in Pera ; and I suppose I have no more real right to date Constantinople than I should have to com- mence a letter " New York," when I was in fact in Brooklyn. But I thought if I commenced this " Pera," you might not at first sight imagine where we were, so I used the more familiar name of Constantinople. And now good bye. LETTER XLVI. Over to Constantinople. Bridge. Varied Scene. Thousand and one Columns. Hippodrome. Janizaries. Burnt Pillar. Bazaars. Re- turn to Pera. Sunset Scene. PERA, May 23d. MY DEAR F. : Another day of sight-seeing in this land so full of fascinating wonders. To-day we went over to Constan- tinople, and as we were gone more than six hours, during which time we scarcely sat down, you may be sure we came home well tired. There are three ways of going through the streets here, on foot, in a carriage, or on horseback. In a carriage, over such wretched pave- ments, through crowded streets, you can readily imagine our progress would be neither easy nor rapid ; and I should be still more unwilling to take a horse, as really 10 LETTERS. I cannot see how one could get safely over such stones ; so our only alternative is to walk, though walking on these round stones is attended with its inconveniences. Going through a part of Pera, we came to a gateway, which separates Pera from Jjralata, and then we went down the narrow, steep streets of the latter, by offices and warehouses, and fish and vegetable markets, jostling against crowds of people, representing all nations, as I judged from their costumes, till we came to the first bridge over the Golden Horn. This is a bridge of boats, with two draws, through which vessels pass going up the Horn. More than once, in crossing this bridge, which is over a quarter of a mile in length, we stopped to gaze at the different objects around. Before us rose the city, swelling up gradually, its palaces and mosques and countless roofs varied with trees of every shade of green ; behind us, the motley houses of Pera and Ga- lata crowned the heights ; on our right, wound the Golden Horn, and on our left, where it opened into the Bosphorus, were, innumerable ships and steamers, and hundreds of caiques, flitting like birds across the water. On the bridge, the gay horseman dashed by us, and the gilded carriage, filled with Turkish women peeping out from their " yashmacks," rumbled along, the beggar, lame, blind, deformed, followed us or sat beneath the railing, the vender of cold water, or sherbet, or cakes, or a very watery looking ice cream, screamed after us, and the crowd jostled against us ; the Turk, the Arme- nian, the Greek, the Italian, the Frenchman, the English officer in his bright uniform, the Scotch soldier with his bare legs, the American tar, rolling his quid from side to side, the Jew, all were there, each in his own distin- guishing costume, and each speaking his own language. LETTERS. 11 What a fantastic medley of colors, and what a Babel of sounds ! High above the buildings of Stamboul, rose the gilded dome and graceful minarets of St. Sophia, and farther on, the equally beautiful dome and six minarets of the mosque of Sultan Achmet ; but as we are intending to make a visit to these mosques, on Saturday, I shall reserve a farther account of them till that time. After we got through the fish and meat and vegetable bazaars, we found the streets both wider and cleaner than we expected to see them, but they seemed appa- rently deserted, for we met but very few in them. The houses were all of wood, many of them painted with gay colors, none but Turks being allowed to paint their houses a cheerful color ; but their closely latticed win- dows give them a prison-like look. Our first object was to find the cistern of the " thou- sand and one" columns, and after a long walk through all kinds of streets, we came to a little hut, where our guide had quite a squabble with a man, the most promi- nent word being " buksheesh" ; so you see we hear that familiar sound even in Europe. We went down a flight of tottering wooden stairs, till we reached the bottom, and then we found ourselves in an immense vault, the roof of which was supported by tall, slender pillars, with richly carved capitals. This cistern was once filled with water, brought by an aqueduct from the mountains, but it is now quite dry, and is used by a company of silk- reelers, who flitted around in the dim light like beings of another world. I did not attempt to count the pillars, but I am told that instead of being a " thousand and one," there are not three hundred. There is still an- other at a little distance, which is said to have a larger 12 LETTERS. number of columns, but the entrance to it is through a house, to which, by some informality or other, we failed to get access. The one we visited is said to be of size sufficient, if in good repair, to hold water to supply the whole Turkish capital for sixty days. Our next walk was to the Hippodrome, the great public square of the ancient Byzantium, where once un- der triumphal arches triumphant processions marched, where games and sports were celebrated in the presence of the emperors themselves, and around which, in the days of former glory, were arranged seats of marble capable of accommodating hundreds of thousands. Be- hind these seats were porticoes, adorned with master- pieces of art, brought from all the cities of the empire, to adorn this public square of the capital. Alas ! for human greatness, these have all disappeared ; the statues and many of the pillars have been demolished or carried away by the conquerers, and vast numbers of the columns have been taken by the Mohammedans to adorn their mosques. Only three monuments remain as proofs of former greatness ; one is an Egyptian obelisk, between fifty and sixty feet high, covered with hieroglyphics, which looked to us like old familiar friends. The next is called by some the most venerable relic of the ancient pagan world. It is a brass column, formed by the bodies of three serpents twisted together, tapering off towards the neck, where the three heads, with open mouths, branched off, and supported a golden tripod, on which the priestess of Delphi sat when she uttered the oracles which told the fate of empires and nations ; but the tripod and the heads are gone, like many other things of old Byzantium. The third is a column of hewn stone, formerly covered with brass LETTERS. 13 plates, which have been stripped off by the Turks, and the column left naked and broken, and almost ready to fall. The area of the Hippodrome is about one thou- sand feet by four hundred, and it is now surrounded by common looking houses, except on one side, where stands the mosque of Sultan Achmet. Near here once stood the barracks of the powerful Janizaries, and from close beside the mosque the cannon were levelled upon them, as they rushed out from the conflagration. The Janizaries were a military corps, composed at first of Greek captives, who were com- pelled to adopt the Moslem faith, and were afterwards blessed by a Dervish, who gave them the title of " Yeni Seri," (new soldiers,) which has since been corrupted into Janizary. Like the Mamelukes of Egypt, they became so powerful a body, their monarch decided to destroy them, and after they had become the terror and the scourge of Turkey, they were murdered in cold blood, by the orders of the late Sultan Malmioud. Still passing on, where the upper story of the houses projects far over the narrow, crooked streets, and the latticed windows allow the inmates to see what is going on below them, without risk of being seen themselves, we came to a mosque of white marble, with barred windows facing the street, and on the sill of the win- dow were bright metal cups, filled with clear cold water, one of which I eagerly drained. The cup was instantly drawn inside by an invisible hand, filled and put back in its place, without a word being spoken, not even that so common every where, " buksheesh." By endowment, a fountain is constantly kept in order at this mosque, and a man stationed there, whose business it is to keep the cups filled, ready for any thirsty traveller, be he 14 LETTERS. pacha or slave, Turk or Christian. I need not say how wise a provision this is, and how acceptable it often proves to a stranger, who otherwise might suffer for " a cup of cold water." In other places in the city there are fountains and a cup always attached by a chain, and the water of these fountains is clear and cold, which, in these hot climates, is a great luxury, and you may be sure one of my thirsty propensities does not often pass by without stopping to drink. As we were walking on, we were struck by a singular looking pillar, rising above the roofs of the houses beyond us. It is called the "burnt pillar," from the fact that it has been repeatedly scathed and cracked, by the frequent conflagrations that have swept over it. It is bound around by copper hoops, and is so blackened by smoke as to render it difficult to ascertain of what material it is composed, or to read the inscrip- tions upon it. It is said to have been brought from the temple of Apollo at Rome, and to have been surmount- ed by a statue. The shaft is ninety feet in height, and the pedestal measures thirty feet at its base, and is said to enclose several pieces of the true cross. Still on and on we went, not feeling so much fatigued as we otherwise would have done, had we been less interested in all we saw ; for after all, that is the greatest preventive against fatigue, At last we reached the bazaars, and here, you may be sure, I was on the alert. These bazaars form a labyrinth of avenues, of more or less size and richness, and are all covered, many of them having lofty arched ceilings, the roofs being a succession of small domes, through which the light is admitted. I have, at different times, dwelt so much upon bazaars, that perhaps you will think a repetition LETTERS. 15 of the subject somewhat of a bore ; but I should do violence to my feminine propensity of admiring fine things and picturesque sights, to pass by the bazaars of Constantinople, without bestowing upon them more than a few ordinary remarks. As in other cities of the East, each kind of goods has its own particular compartment, or, more properly speak- ing, is a bazaar by itself ; and if I should attempt to tell you half I saw, it would be like an enumeration of the different articles mentioned in a catalogue, so I shall merely dwell upon those that mostly attracted my at- tention. What makes the bazaars of Constantinople more bril- liant than those in any other city, is that they are larger, and their goods are displayed in a more artistic manner. True, silks and embroidered muslins, and delicate goods, that would be injured by too constant exposure, are generally kept out of sight, folded up neatly in paper, and laid upon a shelf; but often when the shop-keeper (particularly if he is a lively Greek or Armenian) sees a foreigner approaching, he dexterously unfolds some beautiful fabric, and temptingly holds it up to view. Nor is he satisfied by merely holding it up in full sight, but he calls out to the passer by, " Capitain," (for he thinks every man who looks like an Englishman must be an officer,) " Madama," " Signora," which he flat- ters himself is very good English. If he can, you may be sure he adds a few words in French or Italian, which often exhausts all the stores of foreign languages he possesses. But the Turk disdains to call to his aid any factitious circumstances to help his trade. He sits cross-legged on the counter front of his goods, and even though you stop and point at something which attracts 16 LETTERS. your attention, it is ten chances to one if he offers to take it down, unless he is decidedly requested so to do. In the gold and silver bazaar, though I saw many curious and antique things, there was nothing which, for richness or skill in workmanship, could compare with what you would see at home, in the establishments of some of our workers in the precious metals ; and in those bazaars where European goods were exposed, of course there was not half the variety or splendor as could be found in a large " dry goods" store in our own city ; therefore, I did not stop to look at them, but con- fined my attention exclusively to such things as might decidedly be called oriental. And here, I assure you, there is enough to feed the most vivid imagination. Come, for instance, to the shoe bazaar. Look down that avenue, bordered on both sides with open shops, the shelves of which display slippers of every hue, em- broidered in the most beautiful manner, with gold and silver, and many of them with pearls, on real cache- mere. Here you may find slippers of every price, from ten piastres to one thousand. Could I pass by so tempt- ing an array, Avithout stopping often to look, and occa- sionally to buy ? In the silk bazaar, we saw the far famed Broussa silks ; and though there is not a great variety in the patterns, yet the material is good, and what will interest some purchasers, it is said they "will wear forever." I tried to make a bargain for a dress ; for you must know it is customary here to name one price, and take another ; but either the Greek merchant was too shrewd for me, or I did not set a sufficiently high price on his goods, so I came away, hoping he would call me back, LETTERS. 17 but he didn't, and I suppose I must come to his terms, and return for the dress some time. In embroideries, I saw shawls and scarfs of muslin, splendidly wrought in gold and silver threads and silks of different colors ; small table cloths of crimson and purple velvet, actually covered with gold and silver embroidery ; veils and handkerchiefs of gauze, spotted with gold ; pocket handkerchiefs of muslin, with bor- ders of divers colors ; bags and tobacco pouches of cachemere, prettily wrought with gold ; in short, I don't think I could enumerate half the beautiful things which?, kept my eyes constantly dilated. If I had shut my eyes,, another sense would have told me what bazaar I was next approaching, for the air was loaded with fra- grance. Who that has been to Constantinople, has not heard of Mustapha, " perfumer to the Sultan" ? "We stopped in front to look at some perfumery, but we were politely invited inside, to a room in the rear of the little shop, where we found a perfect cabinet of curiosities, shawls, daggers, pipes, coffee cups, and perfumeries of the choicest kind. While we were selecting some ottar of rose, we were regaled with cool lemon sherbet, and the gentlemen who manifested a tendency that way, were furnished with pipes, all as an act of politeness from Mustapha to his customers, though I doubt not he put on an extra price to the articles we bought, to cover the cost of thus refreshing us. In the fur bazaar, we saw coats and robes lined and trimmed with costly furs, and a number of men at work making up such coats, while the furs were piled all around them. Although the weather is very hot here, we constantly meet men in the streets with such coats on ; for my part, it actually makes me warm to see 2 18 LETTERS. them, and I don't know what would be the effect, if I should venture to wear one. Pipes we saw in great abundance and variety, from the plain stick of cherry, to those gaudily covered with gay colors and decked out with a profusion of tassels and gold cord. We saw them making the long tubes for the nargeelehs, the favorite pipe of many Turks, the smoke passing through water, which is said to purify it and make it less injurious to the smoker. In the saddlery bazaar, we saw the most beautiful saddle cloths of velvet, gorgeously adorned with gold .and silver work. In short, during our saunter through the various bazaars, we saw much to interest and amuse us, and, I may add, to tempt us ; and not one of us left ihem without carrying away some little token of interest. Nor must I forget the drug bazaar, where venerable looking Turks, with white beards, and clouds of smoke rolling above their heads, sat in attitudes the most pic- turesque, each face and figure and dress being a fit subject for a painter. The drugs are arranged in the most attractive manner, on the receding shelves of the stalls, the baskets and jars containing them being turned over with rich colored paper, a peculiar color for every .species. The odor, too, is delightful, for here are gath- ered the most costly drugs of the Orient. I thought I had done ; but I forgot the candy bazaar, 1 where confectionary of every shape and hue is arranged .in heaps and masses, sufficient, I should think, to satisfy .every candy-loving child in the whole of New England. Nor was this variety, great as it was, all we saw to interest us. The groups of people in various costumes, ,the jabber of strange tongues, mingled, now and then, .with a few words in English, the cries of the venders LETTERS. 19 of sherbet, ices, cakes and fruit, the porters, bent double under enormous loads, the occasional clatter on the stones of horses' hoofs, which sent the crowds scattering in different directions, the Turkish women stopping full before us, to stare at us with their great black eyes, the beggars following us with beseeching cries and gestures, the eagerness of some of the shopkeepers, and the phlegmatic indifference of others, the lights and shades thrown over the whole, these and a thousand like things, render a walk in the bazaars of Constantinople one of stirring and constantly changing interest. At last, it was time to turn our faces homeward, and tired though we all were, we stopped often on the bridge to look down into the water, and watch the caiques as they darted rapidly by. Up the steep streets of Galata and Pera we toiled, till at length we found ourselves once more in our hotel, and after going up three flights of stairs, in our pleasant chamber, that commands an extensive view of the Golden Horn, with Stamboul be- fore us, seated on her seven hills, her countless domes and minarets standing out clear against the blue sky. As twilight came on, I laid aside my pen, and looked abroad over the beautiful scene. Across the placid water glided countless caiqries, with so little apparent motion, they did not leave the slightest wake behind. The setting sun lighted up the crescents on the domes of the mosques, and brought out clear and distinct the fretted galleries around the minarets. And hark ! from each gallery rings forth the muezzin's cry, " There is but one God, and Mohammed is his prophet ; come to prayers, come to salvation," and a thousand obedient children of the Prophet obey the call, and throng to the mosques, while others in the streets, or in their houses, 20 LETTERS. unroll their prayer carpets, and turning their faces to- wards Mecca, go through their evening devotions. Once more good bye. LETTER XL VII. Queen's Birthday. Dogs. Marvellous Story. Caiques. Scutari. Disappointment. Tophana. Review of English Troops. Araba. Another Carriage. Chrysopolis. Cemetery. Lovely Country. Bul- ghurlhu. Extensive View. Adventure. Return to Pera. PERA, May 25th. MY DEAR : The almanac will tell you this is the birthday of Queen Victoria ; and we heard from some English officers at our table that there was to be a grand review of the troops early this morning, in honor of the day. Averse as I am to an early start, I could not think of letting such an event go by without making some exertions to wit- ness it ; and the consequence was, I slept but little last night, partly owing to fear lest I should oversleep my- self, but more, I must confess, to the incessant barking of some " forty-leven" dogs beneath our windows. I thought Egypt was a great place for dogs, but they are not to be mentioned in the same breath with the dogs of Constantinople. By day, I believe they never attack strangers, but at night they are not so forbearing ; and our guide told us that not long since, an English soldier was attacked by some dogs, and entirely eaten up, ex- cept his boots ! But, as an offset to this marvellous story, I must admit his narratives are not always to be depended upon. To get a party of six together, early in the morning, LETTERS. 21 is no slight job ; but at last we were all mustered in the vestibule of the hotel, and in a few minutes were on our way to Tophana, to take caiques for Scutari, where the troops are quartered. I had been told so much of the ease with which these little boats are upset, I was quite afraid to get into one ; however, as the only danger is in stepping on the side, I made a great effort, and leaped directly into the middle. These caiques are narrow, graceful looking little boats, the smallest ones rowed by one man, (who puffs and blows like a por- poise,) and you seat yourself, like a Turk, on a cushion in the bottom of the boat. Only two can go in one of the smaller caiques, so our party, dividing themselves into twos, were soon on their way across the Bosphorus. The row over was delightful, as we wound in and out among the shipping, bearing the flags of nearly every nation. Landing at Scutari, we made our way up the steep hill, (for all the hills in this neighborhood are steep,) to the immense barracks, capable, it is said, of accom- modating eighteen thousand soldiers. We saw nothing that indicated any extraordinary event going on, so we went to the English encampment, a little farther off. The ground was white with the tents spread over it, but nothing was to be seen of officers or soldiers. At last we succeeded in finding out that the review was to be at eleven o'clock. Here was a nice " mess." Should we lounge around there, breakfastless, or come home for our breakfast, and return in season for the review ? Some of the party were for staying, and trusting to for- tune, in the shape of a poor restaurant, for breakfast ; but I preferred to come back, so we turned back to the caiques, and in due time were landed at Tophana. 22 LETTERS. Here is another of those exquisite fountains, which form one of the peculiar beauties of Constantinople. It is of white marble, of Saracenic style of architec- ture, elaborately adorned with carvings and fretwork, and letters of gold. On the four sides, the water runs out into a little basin ; and here, young and old, rich and poor, may stop to quaff the cool drink. I never pass it by without stopping to look with renewed ad- miration at this perfect little gem. Breakfast over, we started once more for Scutari ; and now we saw the vessels in the harbor decked out with flags and streamers, and some with wreaths of evergreen. The St. Louis, in addition to her " stars and stripes," carried English and Turkish flags, while some of the English men-of-war bore American as well as Turkish colors. But we heard no firing. " How is this ?" we asked. " Why, they were all saving their powder to use it on the Russians !" Economical, truly. The review had commenced when we reached the ground, and to my eye, so totally unaccustomed to lines of soldiers, the number of troops seemed enormous. I believe there were about twenty thousand on the ground, which you must admit was quite an army. I shall not dwell upon their manoeuvres, nor the skill and disci- pline they manifested, for I am too ignorant on such subjects to do them justice. At one time, the band struck up " God save the Queen," and after playing a few notes, stopped, and then the signal was given for " three cheers for the Queen, God bless her Majesty," and immediately every head was uncovered, every hat and cap waved in the air, and three prolonged cheers rung out. Even the spectators paid this mark of re- spect to the Queen of Great Britain, and French, Arner- LETTERS. 23 icans, Italians, Spaniards, all of whatever nation, ex- cept Turkish, (and they have no hats to take off,) uncovered, and united their cheers with those of the soldiers. Do not laugh at me, when I say it was a sublime sight ; but republican as I am, and glorying, too, in my republicanism, I was moved almost to tears. The review over, our party gathered together to decide what we should do the remainder of the day. Con- stantine (no relation to the Emperor of that name, but our Greek guide,) told us there was a delightful drive to Bulghurlhu, (an unpronounceable name, I admit, but not more difficult to pronounce than to spell,) and a magnificent view after we got there. "We wanted to see as much of Turkey in Asia as possible, so at once we decided to go there, (I do not think I can spell that again ;) but how to go ? was the question. In Syria and Palestine, there was no other way to get about but on horseback, for such a thing as a carriage is never seen in those countries, for the best of all reasons, there are no roads ; but here were both carriages and roads, so "my voice" was for the carriage ; and being the only lady's voice in the party, was listened to with atten- tion, probably more from that fact than from its intrinsic merits. But even here, we could not come to^a harmo- nious decision, for we had two different kinds of car- riages to choose from. Let me describe them to you, though I am confident no description can do them justice, they are so totally unlike any thing you ever saw. One is called an " araba," and looks more like the fantastic vehicles in which fairy queens come upon the stage, than any thing in* real, every day life. It is a long wagon, of a peculiar shape, and if it were not for comparing it with too common things, I should say it 24 LETTERS. somewhat resembled what we, at home, call a " meat wagon ;" but it is covered with a crimson cloth, rolled up at the sides, displaying three or four seats inside. The body of the carriage, and even the wheels, are elab- orately adorned with gilded carvings, which help to add to its fantastic appearance. Nor is the carriage all that is peculiar, for it is drawn by two oxen, their tails tied to a hoop, bent back from the front of the pole, their heads and horns, and the long curve of the hoop, decked with a profusion of red or yellow tassels. Beside the carriage walks an eunuch or old Turk, while a slave runs along by the side of the oxen 1 ; and in vehicles like this many of the Moslem ladies take an airing. But from there being no springs to the carriage, I should fancy it could not be very easy, particularly over paved streets ; still, for the very fun of the thing, I was willing to brave all inconveniences, for I thought it would be very "jolly," as the English say, riding all together in that vehicle, though some of my companions thought it would terminate more in "jelly" than in "jolly." Turn we now to the other carriage, for as I do not know the Turkish name for it, I can designate it by no other term than the general one of carriage. This is smaller than the " araba," and has two immense wheels s * behind, and two as proportionably small before. It has no windows like our carriages, but the sides are cut out in a peculiar manner, and decked with white muslin curtains. There is no door, but after getting upon the step, you are forced to climb over the side, not an easy or agreeable performance. Like the "araba," it is adorned with a profusion of* carving and gilding, and .though it has a seat for the driver, I think he* never LETTERS. 25 mounts, but walks by the side of his horse, for this is drawn by a horse, not by oxen. Four of us took possession of this vehicle, while two of the gentlemen, and Constantine, mounted donkeys, and though the first start almost sent us off the seats, and the jostling over the pavements was far from being easy, I believed we all enjoyed the ride very much, though I strongly suspect the springs of the carriage were not after the most improved pattern. The three gentlemen, probably from their early rising this morn- ing, were soon nodding, though the jolts and jerks of the carriage prevented them from enjoying any very long naps. Scutari was called by the ancients Chrysopolis, " the golden city," because here, during wars, and in troub- lous times, the Persians deposited their treasures and paid their tribute ; and although generally considered a part of Constantinople, it is in itself a large and popu- lous city, containing, I believe, more than eighty thou- sand inhabitants. It is situated on a hill, very steep upon the side washed by the Marmora, but gracefully leaning towards the Seraglio on the. opposite shore, like an Asiatic lady bowing to her European partner, (an old figure of speech, not at all original.) The cemetery at, Scutari covers as much ground as some cities, and it is said that on no other spot on the earth, are so many of the human race gathered together. Its immense pall of cypress stretches far away over the hill, and through the valley, till it terminates, at last, in a long point pro- jecting into the Marmora, as though it were poufing its contents into the sea. I must say I was glad when we left the paved streets, and once more had the ground beneath our feet. How 26 LETTERS.' like it seemed to a scene at home, the wide road bor- dered with stone walls, or wooden houses, though houses like these, with the upper story projecting over the lower, and with closely latticed windows, are unlike any we would see in our land. The country was very pretty, with its sloping hills looking smiling and fertile, and we caught snatches of the Bosphorus, which only made us long for more. I should think we rode quite six miles, and some part of the way the hills were so very steep, the gentlemen got out and walked, leaving me in un- disputed possession of the carriage. At last, we reached the village, and there leaving the carriage, we walked to the top of the hill, and sat down to rest and to enjoy the prospect. Come and sit with me on this rocky seat, and let your eye take in the whole scene. Is it not lovely ? See, we are on the hill Bul- ghurlhu, which is a link in the Bythynian chain, and below us, embowered in trees, lie villages and palaces and kiosks, while beyond is Scutari, with its forest of cypresses, and opposite to it, Constantinople, " the mag- nificent ;" and does she not well deserve her title ? The light falls upon St. Sophia's " gleaming dome," and the seven towers loom up against the clear sky. You look far over the glittering Propontis, and along the winding, village-covered shores of the Bosphorus, and up even into the Golden Horn ; the ancient walls of Byzantium, and the new palace of the Sultan, all are before you, and if you turn slightly round, the islands of the Marmora lie beneath you, while far in the dis- tance rises the snow-crested Olympus, looking down upon the fertile plain of Broussa, at its feet. Have I brought it before you, so that you can see it distinctly with your mind's eye ? My eyes never rested upon a LETTERS. 27 fairer scene, and you may readily imagine we were loath to leave it. But the sun was getting lower, and we must follow his example, so we descended the hill, climbed up into our clumsy vehicle, and soon were rumbling on towards Scutari. We passed another large cemetery on our way back by a different road, and the tall white tombstones, and the lofty cypresses, planted so closely together as to form an almost impervious shade, gave it a picturesque ap- pearance. "While Constantine was trying to get a caique large enough to take us all across, I sat down to rest, (for my ride had jounced me to an uncomfortable degree,) on a block of pure white marble, forming two steps, and scarcely was I seated, when a soldier came up to me, and said " non bono" (not good ;) but I did not agree with him, for I thought it a very nice seat indeed, and very soon I had quite a crowd around me. But as I am by this time accustomed to being stared at, it produced no-effect upon me, so I sat still, jotting down in my note- book the proceedings of the day. Presently one of my companions came to me, and asked me what I had been saying to that soldier, for he saw him go back to his commanding officer, and evidently tell him something about me, as he pointed to me while he was talking, and then the officer seemed to wish him to come again, but the man demurred, whereupon the officer then pushed him, and finally struck him with the hilt of his sword, all to no effect, for the man shook his head and walked away. I could not imagine what it all meant, so I called Constantine to my aid. He turned to some of the crowd and asked what was the matter. At least a dozen voices clamored forth a reply, but at last I succeeded 28 LETTEES. in getting his interpretation. It seems I was sitting upon steps put there for his " Imperial Majesty the Sultan" to stand upon, when he was about to mount his horse to ride to any of his palaces near Scutari ; and it was not deemed proper for a Christian to sit upon the Sultan's horse-block ! When I first refused to get up, the soldier had returned to his officer with the ac- count of the non-success of his mission ; he was then bidden to come again and command me to leave my seat, and he refused to obey, on the ground that I was " English," and not to be dictated to, for some of the peo- ple here think they must put up with a great many things from the English, because they have come to fight for them. So much for this day. LETTER XLVIII. Buyukdere. Unquiet Nights. Ramazan. Night Scene. Galata. Walls of the City. Seven Towers. Costumes. Palace of the Seraskier. Extensive View. BOYUKDERE, May 30th. MY DEAR S. : After an interval of nearly a week, I take up my pen once more to give you an account of our further ram- bles in and around Constantinople, and as from the name at the head of this letter, you may wonder where we are, I hasten to tell you that Buyukdere is a small town on the Bosphorus, about fifteen miles from Constantino- ple, and five or six from the Black Sea. The weather was getting so hot, we found it very fatiguing to go about, and after six days spent in sight-seeing, being LETTERS. 29 out nearly every day from ten o'clock till six, and at- tempting to write each evening, and early every morn- ing, I found my health and strength too severely taxed, so we came up here to recruit, and to bring up my writing, which as is often the case, is sadly in arrears. Besides, the nights in Pera were very unquiet, for the dogs kept up a constant barking, and at intervals, an unearthly howl rung out upon the air, which was re- peated from post to post. For a long time we could not make out what it was, but after asking a great many people, we were finally told it was the cry of the night watch. I should think they might have fixed upon a more musical sound for their signals. Last Saturday too, the Ramazan commenced, the yearly fast of the Turks, which lasts a lunar month. During the day, from sunrise to sunset, the devout Mussulman eats nothing, neither does he drink, not a drop of cold water even, touching his lips. His dearly beloved pipe too, is laid aside, but to pay for all the self-denial by day, the moment the sunset gun booms forth, they give themselves up to feasting and revelry, to noise and merriment. In order to get along still easier, many of them sleep the greater part of the day, and stay up three-fourths of the night, and the dogs too follow their example, for they lie dozing in the streets all day, and bark incessantly at night. Drums and trumpets and bugles were sounding in the streets, the whole night long ; in short it was a repetition on a mammoth scale of the scene which invariably takes place at home, on the night before the fourth of July. We really could not sleep, and you may imagine, after such a night, how poorly we were prepared for a day of sight-seeing. But the appearance of Constantinople 30 LETTERS. at night, was perfectly lovely, for the whole city is brilliantly illuminated every night during the Raniazan. Before that commenced, we could scarcely see a light twinkling across the Golden Horn, for we have not yet arrived in the regions of gas lights, and Constantinople, immense, as it is, is as unfit for a person to walk about in, after dark, as a little town in Nubia. But now the scene is changed, and the city looks like a picture in magic land. Each dome, each tapering minaret, almost every house, are lighted, and the little lamps, far up in the domes, arranged so as to form Turkish characters, and the bright lights, twinkling out of the fretted gallery of each minaret, like lustrous stars in the sky, make the city, enthroned on her seven hills, shine forth with almost unearthly beauty, and when I could not sleep, I would get up and stand by the window, and gaze forth upon the unrivalled scene, till I grew too sleepy to look longer. And now we are here in quiet, and I sit by my win- dow opening out upon the Bosphorus, which is here so hemmed in, as to look like a lake, and my paper is spread out upon the table, and I am ready to recall and record past scenes. Let me see, where did I leave off! Oh, on the night of the Queen's birth-day ; so I will take up the thread of my narrative from that time. On Thursday morning, we went down to Galata to take a caique for a row down the Sea of Marmora. The lower streets of Galata would not give you a fa- vorable idea of the cleanliness of the town, for I must say I have walked in much cleaner streets, even in some towns in the East. I like to know the meaning of names, and perhaps you have a tendency that way yourself, so I will tell you, that to the best of my knowl- LETTERS. 31 edge, Galata means " milk," that suburb having origi- nally been the milk market of the neighborhood, and Pera, is taken from the Greek preposition signifying " beyond," because it lies beyond Galata. Having delivered myself of this piece of wisdom and information, I will proceed, in a less didactic manner, to say, that having procured a large caique, with three men and six oars, we were soon speeding down the Bosphorus into the Sea of Marmora, round the point on which is seated the Seraglio, the palace where the form- er Sultans lived in state, by gardens and kiosks, and under the windows through the lattices of "which Sul- tanas and slaves peeped down on the sea beneath them, and near the little door whence unfaithful mistresses were thrown into the Marmora, till we left the Imperial palace behind, and came in front of the wall, which hems in that part of the city that lies beyond the Pal- ace. For more than six miles, we kept along the wall, which is high and strengthened with bastions. It does not rise directly out of the water, but has a narrow terrace at its base, thus affording a pleasant walk the whole length of the city. In different parts of the wall, we saw inserted marble and columns, remains of the former glory of Byzantium. The houses are all dark colored, tumble-down-looking affairs, but still they have a picturesque aspect. As I told you once before, the city of Constantinople is situated on a triangular promontory, watered on the one side by the Marmora, and on the other by the Bos- phorus, and both on the sea and land side, it is sur- rounded by a wall, in some places in rather a dilapida- ted state. At the south-west angle of the city, where the land 32 LETTERS. wall meets that on the Marmora, stand the celebrated seven towers. These are a cluster of fortresses, some of them dating back to the days of Theodosius ; others are of a later origin, having been added by some of the Greek emperors, and one was built more recently still, by Mohammed the second. They were originally lofty octagonal towers, and when they all frowned at once upon the Propontis, must have presented a formidable aspect. Three of them are now in ruins, and only five of them rise above the massive battlements, while but one bears the crescent. These towers, could they speak, would a gloomy tale unfold, for they have witnessed many a scene of horror and bloodshed ; but though it is said "walls have ears," we are no where told they have tongues. Fortunately, the voice of history is not always silenced, and she gives forth many a dark record of the seven towers of Constantinople. They have served as a castle for tyrants, a prison for offenders against the state, and a treasury for the spoils of the imperial con- queror. In despite of the law of nations, an ambassa- dor, offending the Sublime Porte, was shut up in one of these gloomy dungeons ; and an instance is given of a Russian count, who was confined there three years, on account of some little misunderstanding between the court of the Sultan and the Czarina Catharine. Within the enclosure of the walls is shown a spot called " the place of heads," from the great number of heads once piled here, one upon another, and there was once a " well of blood," from which the blood of the slain flowed over the pavement into the sea. These towers are now used as a magazine for powder and arms, and the Turks, guarding the entrance, refused to let us go in, without a " firman" from government ; LETTERS. 33 and for one, I was not sorry to be spared seeing the spots where such dark deeds were perpetrated. We walked through some of the streets of the Greek quarter, and found them clean, comparatively speaking, but many of the houses were entirely shut up, so many of the Greeks being recently banished from the empire. The Greek women here dress as in Smyrna, their hair braided across their red caps, and some of their faces are very handsome. The children are many of them lovely, with their classical features and their large, lus- trous eyes. Once more we were in our caique, and our boatmen* were puffing and blowing with all their might. Their dress is very pretty ; large, full Turkish trousers of white cotton, and shirts with loose flowing sleeves of thin striped stuff, made, I think, of silk and linen, or linen and cotton, I don't know which. We dismissed our caique, just beyond Seraglio point, and made our way through streets crowded with motley groups. I am now learning to tell different nations and classes, by some peculiar feature of their dress ; for in- stance, the Dervish, (the Moslem monk,) wears a conical cap of drab-colored felt ; the Persian, a tall black cap of skin, finished off at the top somewhat like a Bishop's mitre, while the Circassian, with his round, ruddy face, wears a high cap of cloth, with a border of sheepskin around it, the long wool arranged in curls. Arriving at the palace of the Seraskier, or command - er-in-chief of the army, we went up into a high tower, which is used for giving the signals, when there is a fire in any part of the city. We ascended to the top, by a flight of one hundred and" seventy-nine steps, and as they are very high, they are not at all easy to ascend. 3 34 LETTERS. But the view from the top is superb. The city and its sub- urbs, from the numerous cemeteries scattered through them, and the courts of many of the houses being planted with trees and vines, look like one immense garden, with clusters of houses nestled down among the trees. Directly beneath us lay the palace, a long range of grated prisons, and the dome and minarets of the mosque of Bajazet. From this elevation, I saw the great extent of the bazaars, for the succession of low domes, pierced with small windows, indicated their different locations ; and I suppose this is really the only point where one could form a just estimate of the world-famed bazaars of Con- stantinople. In fact the whole city is here spread out like a map, and if you had the time, it is said you could count one thousand domes and five thousand minarets. But the distant view surpasses all. Far to the south, spreads the Sea of Marmora, studded with lovely isles ; on the east, the continent of Asia presents a long range of mountains, every one of which is known to the world for some deed of blood and heroism, and among which lie Bithynia, Phrygia and Cappadocia, dear to the Christian heart, as the scene of many of the labors of the great Apostle of the Gentiles. Far above them all, towers Olympus, its summit crowned with a diadem of eternal snow. Like a deep chasm in the hills, the Bosphorus opens, and as far as you can follow its course, you see jutting promontories and deeply indented bays, so that it is said if the water could be drawn out of the straits, and the opposite shores be brought together, they would fit into each other perfectly. 'Along the promontories, and LETTERS. 35 around the bays, you see palaces and mosques, castles and forts, backed by gentle hills, bright and green. On the north, the Golden Horn winds away, till it tapers off into a narrow stream, and is lost among the overhanging trees and encircling hills of the " Valley of Sweet Waters." Far to the left, amid domes and slender minarets, and palaces and trees, are the pictur- esque remains of an old Roman aqueduct, its double row of arches overgrown with ivy and clustering vines. What a view it was ! I was almost tempted to say it was the loveliest, the most extensive I ever saw. And while we walked from window to window, and returned again and again to some favorite spot, a com- pany of soldiers gathered in the court beneath, and the band struck up an animating quickstep. As a general thing, the Turkish music we have heard has been noth- ing to boast of, but this was really very good. We took a stroll through some of the bazaars, and once more the purse strings were unloosed, and the silk dress was bought, and another pair of embroidered slippers. But this certainly is enough for one day. LETTER XLIX. The Sultan. Dervishes. Valley of Sweet Waters. Attractive Scene. Cemetery. Mosque of Eyoub. BtiTCKDERE, May 31st. MY DEAR F. : Without any " preliminary remarks," I proceed with my record of the past week. On Friday, we hired a caique by the day, and started off soon after breakfast, 36 LETTERS. on another " exploring expedition." Our first destina- tion was a little way up the Bosphorus, our object, to see the Sultan go to a mosque for the noonday prayers, for every Friday, (which you know is the Mohammedan Sunday,) this orthodox Mussulman goes to some mosque, and it is always announced early in the morning what mosque he will attend, which is a very good thing for those who like to see royal personages. We passed by the new palace of the Sultan, an extensive edifice, not yet finished, and came to that in which he now resides. Here we landed, and going up into the town, got a good situation, on a little bank under the shade of a tree, and there we waited a half hour for the approach of the brother of the sun ! Lines of soldiers were stationed along the street through which the royal train was to pass, and bands of music at little intervals. The mid- dle of the street was watered, so that no dust should sully the feet of the Arabian charger which bore the " illustrious descendant of a long line of kings." At last, the report of a cannon told that the Sultan had left his palace ; the bands struck up, and every head was turned towards the upper end of the street. I can't tell who came first, for there was no one near me whom I could ask, but immediately preceding the Sul- tan, came the Minister of War, the Minister of Police, and the Minister of Finance, and then, mounted on a splendid black horse, appeared Abdel Medjib, the head of the Ottoman empire, which some predict is now tot- tering to its fall. As he rode slowly by, I had a good opportunity to see him, and a more inanimate face, or eyes from which all life* and soul seemed to have de- parted, I never saw. He was dressed very plainly, in European style, though the collar and cuffs of his coat LETTERS. 37 were studded with diamonds. He wore a red tarboosh, and the long blue tassel was fastened to the cap with an immense diamond. His saddle cloth was of velvet, embroidered with gold, and the horse was perfect. Each band stopped as he passed by it, and not a cheer was given or a head uncovered, except those of our own party, nor the slightest symptom of enthusiasm or affec- tion manifested. Just as he passed us, a woman who stood near me, waved a petition, (at least, I supposed it was one,) and immediately an officer, walking behind the Sultan, stepped up, and taking it from her, placed it in a large portfolio which he carried. Once more in our caique, we went back to Tophana, and landing, walked to a small mosque of the Dervishes, where we hoped to see one of their dancing perform- ances, but contrary to the usual custom, none took place that day, and we were told there would be none till the next Sunday ; but as we did not want to go then, we have not yet seen them. It was Friday, and " all the world" goes to the " sweet waters" on that day of the week, so we, not to be behind the times, went too. Passing through the immense shipping in the harbor, we went under the bridge, and were soon darting away towards the tip of the Golden Horn, through a large fleet of ships and vessels of different sizes, Constantinople lying on our left, Pera, Galata and smaller suburbs on our right. Indeed, I scarcely knew when the cities ended, for almost a con- tinued line of villages extended for several miles up the Horn. Barracks and hospitals, and a marine college, and the arsenal, and Turkish men-of-war, and Jews' and Armenian quarters, all were passed, and then we came to green fields coming down to the water's edge, 38 LETTERS. and now and then a cafe, or an imperial kiosk, which is a small summer palace. And then the Horn narrowed, and we found ourselves soon after almost hemmed in by the banks, and shaded by large trees, and we knew we were on the little river that runs into the Golden Horn. It is this river of fresh water that gives the name to this valley, of the " sweet water," " sweet" being always used in the East in contradistinction to salt. Judging from the thick, muddy looking stream, I should call the water any thing but " sweet." Long before we reached our stopping place, we passed caiques in countless numbers, moored to the banks, while along the shore were scattered groups of men and women, some walking, some standing, and some seated on carpets and matting under the trees. We passed a beautiful little palace, directly on the bank, and a num- ber of horses, standing near, Constantine told us the Sultan had come up, and was undoubtedly looking out through the blinds, and recommended us to lower our umbrellas, as we passed, as a token of respect to his Majesty, but before we could possibly have closed the umbrellas, our caique had darted by. I had heard this valley so much praised, I must con- fess my first impression fell far below the idea I had conceived of it ; but as we went farther up the valley, it became more and more lovely, till I was forced to confess its beauties had not been overrated. The stream flowed quickly on, through willow shaded banks, and the valley was thickly studded with large trees, and the hills swept down and then rolled away, revealing pictur- esque glens, and wooded dells, and romantic ravines. But no words can describe the gay scene this valley presented. We did not then know, that during the LETTERS. 39 Ramazan, the Turks do not visit this lovely spot, else we might, in a measure, have accounted for the exces- sive brilliancy and animation of the whole, as this would be the last visit for a month. Families sitting on the grass, enjoying a pic-nic, carriages rolling by, filled with Turkish women, many of whom seemed to have no idea of any thing but looking at themselves in a little hand mirror, Europeans dashing by on horseback, and staring at the faces covered with the " yashmacks," strolling bands of musicians playing various airs, a company of Gipsies dancing an Arab dance, accompa- nying it with their voices, (carrying us back at once -to the Nile,) beggars, uttering in doleful notes their peti- tions for charity, sellers of fruit and pastry and confec- tionary, and sherbet, and so-called ice cream, these and a thousand other things, kept our attention constantly alive. The diligence with which the black slaves guarded the mistresses confided to their care, the co- quettish airs which the young Turkish women practiced when they saw a foreigner approaching, the " arabas" and other carriages decked with gilding, the endless variety of costumes, the children playing on the grass, all formed pictures exceedingly attractive to the eye. We noticed that the plain and old women wore yash- macks made of thick muslin, while those of the younger and more beautiful class were so transparent as to allow every feature of the face to be distinctly seen, and in- stead of concealing charms, I am sure they added to them. It is a well-known fact, that the Turkish women (the handsome ones, I mean,) paint, and this artificial complexion is seen to much better advantage, through a thin covering of white muslin than without such a veil. They not only paint red and white, but black also, that 40 LETTERS. is, they dye the rims of their eyes with kohl, which serves to give a peculiarly beautiful appearance to the eyes themselves. "Without doubt, the eyes of many of the Turkish women, are among the finest in the world, but it is the beauty of form and color, while that of the mind, the heart, the soul, seems wanting. No ! let Turkish women look to it ; the day they leave off their " yashmacks," they will find their beauty has lost half its charms. The women here almost univer- sally have bad figures, and without any exception, they are the worst walkers I ever saw. It is almost impos- sible to find of what materials their dress is composed, so closely do they keep those hideous cloaks wrapped around them, but on standing near a group that day, when no gentlemen were by, one of them put back her cloak to arrange some part of her dress, or perhaps from a pardonable vanity to show me it was not from neces- sity the cloak was so carefully kept around' her, and I found she wore a figured muslin gown, exceedingly short-waisted, very open in front, displaying her neck and chest, and full trousers gathered around the ankle. Their feet always look clumsy, for I scarcely think the foot of a fairy would look well in those ungainly boots and slip-shod shoes. We tried to form some idea of the numbers of the peo- ple upon the ground, though of course there was no way by which we could come to any accurate conclusion, but Yankee-like, we could guess, and our guesses varied from five to eight thousand. Our return down the Golden Horn was like a procession of boats, for the water was actually covered with caiques. We passed a cafe" surrounded by a garden, and there we saw a large .number of Greek and Armenian women. These, we LETTERS. 41 are told, flock to the " sweet waters" on Sunday, not mingling there with the Turks on Friday. About half way down the Horn, we stopped to visit the cemetery near the mosque of Eyoub, not that there was any thing particularly interesting about the cemete- ry itself, but the view from the top of the hill was very fine, commanding the whole length of the Horn, and far up the " Valley of Sweet Waters." What a con- trast was this cemetery, with its tall cypress trees, and turbaned head stones, to that of the Jews, upon the opposite side of the Horn, which looks like a barren, stony field, the grave-stones being laid upon the surface of the earth, without any regularity, and without a tree, or shrub or flower to soften the scene. Alas ! for the poor Jews ; outcasts in life, from all the human race, they are not allowed, in death to lie near a Christian or Mussulman ! The mosque of Eyoub is large and hand- some, but within its courts no Christian foot is ever permitted to tread, for in addition to its other points of sacredness, every Sultan, on his accession to the throne, is here invested with the sword of sovereignty. Within the enclosure of the mosque, is the most beau- tiful place of burial, I have yet seen in Turkey, for be- sides the cypress, roses cluster over every grave, and almost conceal every head-stone. White and fresh too, the stones look, and gay withal, many of them having inscriptions in gold. Here too, none but those of dis- tinguished birth in the empire are buried, and of course, we were not allowed to step upon the hallowed ground, but through the bars of the windows in the wall around the outer court, we looked, and saw many a pretty little picture. I believe I told you before, the turban or tar- boosh indicates the grave of a man, while a plain stone, 42 LETTERS. or one with a sculptured rose branch upon it, points out that of a woman. The turban varies in form and size, according to the rank of the deceased, but as all the inscriptions are in Turkish characters, we are no judges how applicable to the Turks is the proverb, that " tomb- stones lie." As we were coming down the hill, we met the gay arabas, full of Turkish women, coming home from the " sweet waters." They were riding in more silence than would have been known, I dare say, among a like party of Americans or English ; but whether the Turkish women are no great talkers, (" unlike the rest of the sex," per- haps you say,) or whether their yashmacks, bound so tightly around their noses and mouths, prevent their talking, I cannot say. We came home very hungry and tired, but as we never dined at the Hotel de Byzance till seven o'clock, I had time to rest a little before dinner. And now I think I have given you enough for one letter, so I will reserve the remainder of our excursions about Constantinople till another time. LETTER L. The Seraglio. Sublime Porte. Church of St. Irene. Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia. Sultan Achmet. Sultan Mahmoud. Sultan Sulyman. BUYUKDEKE, June 3d. MY DEAR FRIENDS : We are still here in our quiet retreat, and are becom- ing daily more and more delighted with it. Here, calmly and quietly, I have passed a few days, writing LETTERS. 43 several hours a day, trying to bring up that tardy jour- nal of mine. And now I will finish my record of sight- seeing in Constantinople. Last Saturday, a party of about twenty, French, English and Americans, went to visit the mosques of Stamboul, for which it is necessary to have a firman from government. The French party attended to getting the firman, so we had nothing to do, but to pay our share of the expenses, which was fifteen francs apiece, (three dollars,) rather an expen- sive, excursion for one day. Knowing we should not be allowed to wear in the mosques the boots or shoes we had been walking in, and as it is no easy thing to lace and unlace boots a half dozen times in a few hours, I wore shoes that I could put on and off easily, and took a pair of slippers to wear in the mosques, marble floors not being very agreeable to feet encased merely in stockings. To avoid the long walk over the bridge, we rowed over to Seraglio Point, which juts out into the Marmora on the one side, and the Bosphorus on the other. We walked through a labyrinth of courts and gardens and rooms, and I must confess in all, except the gardens, I was disappointed. With the exception of a corridor running round one of the courts, paved with marble, and supported by rare pillars, and a bath room, an exquisite gem, lined with rich marble, I saw but little marble, the staircases being of wood, and the floors also, or at least, all that we saw, a few rooms being covered with straw matting. Divans and chairs covered with satin, silk or damask, were in all the rooms, but neither the furniture nor the palace itself could begin to compare with palaces we saw in Egypt. We passed through a long gallery, with closely latticed windows, through 44 LETTERS. which the ladies of the palace formerly looked down upon a court below, to witness games and feats of strength. In one of the courts we saw a marble column, about seventy feet high, with a beautiful Corinthian capital, and in this court, or another one, I have forgot- ten which, a magnificent sycamore tree, measuring thirty-seven feet around the trunk. The buildings and grounds of the Seraglio cover about three miles, and the palace, or rather succession of palaces, is sufficiently large to accommodate four thousand retainers, besides the women, the last by no means an unimportant item in the palace of the Sultan. The kitchens occupy one side of a court, and are im- mense rooms, surmounted by ten domes. Report says the Turks are exceedingly fend of good living, and that the women consume unheard-of quantities of candies and sweetmeats, more than two thousand pounds of sugar being daily used in the kitchen of the womens' apartments belonging to the royal family. The gate leading to the first court from the city, is called the imperial gate, or the Sublime Porte, which gives name to the Ottoman court. Over it is an inscrip- tion in Arabic, and as I never before saw a translation of it, and you may be in equal ignorance, I copy this from an excellent work on Turkey, by Admiral Slade. " By the assistance of God, and his good pleasure, the lord of the two continents and seas, the shadow of God among men and among angels ; the favorite of God in the East and in the West ; the monarch of the terra- queous globe ; the conqueror of the city of Constanti- nople, that is, the. victorious Emperor Mehemet, son of the Emperor Amurath, and grandson of the Emperor Mehemet, laid the foundation of this august building, LETTERS. 45 united the parts solidly together, for the preservation of quiet and tranquility. May the Almighty perpetuate his empire, and exalt it above the lucid stars of the firmament." The charm of the Seraglio, to me, was its terraced gardens, and the lovely views of the Marmora, the Bos- phorus, and the Golden Horn. I am never wearied with looking out upon this varying scene, and I eagerly seize every opportunity of viewing it to the best advan- tage. The ancient church of St. Irene, just beyond the Seraglio, is now used as a place of deposit for arms, and here we found specimens of almost every date and kind, from a full suit of ar,mor, down to a gun, sword and pistol. Above the great altar, in a glass case, are the keys of every town in Turkey, and on the walls hang the swords of vanquished kings and princes. The massive arches and heavy galleries, the small semicir- cular windows, high up in the thick walls, give you a good idea of ancient Byzantine architecture. Not far from the Seraglio, is the venerable pile of St. Sophia, whose " gleaming dome" and gilded crescent, and " sky-piercing minarets," make it a conspicuous object from any part of Constantinople and its environs. It was the hour for the midday prayers, and as, for some reason or other, we were obliged to wait some time be- fore the entrance to the mosque, I sat down upon a stone seat, and saw the bearded Turk, and the young boy, stop at the fountain opposite to me, and wash their face and neck and feet, before going into the temple of their God, and then, tired of looking and waiting, I opened my note book, and was soon absorbed in my writing. Suddenly the light was obscured, and on looking up, I saw a crowd of men and boys around me, gazing in won- 46 LETTERS. der at the closely written page before me. As I knew not one of them could read what I was writing, I wrote on, not at all disturbed by their presence, till the sum- mons came for us to go into the mosque. As the Ra- mazan had just commenced, the mosque was more than usually full, and from different parts the priests were expounding the Koran. Quite a crowd assembled round some favorite preacher, while another at a little distance seemed to be speaking in vain, so few listeners had he. Here, a number of men were pros- trating themselves, and going through their stated de- votions, and there a knot of boys were rocking them- selves backward and forward, reciting passages of the Koran in a sing-song tone, while here and there a group of merry little children were playing and bounding about, and even turning somersets on the floor. Women are rarely seen in a mosque, but perhaps they pray at home. Men may traffic and gossip in the mosques, and even pursue their different vocations, for I saw several sewing, making a " comforter" for a bed, and children may play and gambol round ; but the presence of a Christian pollutes the sanctuary ! We were led at first to the wide gallery that runs around the interior of the mosque, and there we stood a long time, gazing at the groups below, or looking round upon the vast edifice in which we were. I can- not say St. Sophia struck me so very forcibly with the idea of its magnificence or vastness, for in this respect its effect is nothing compared with St. Peter's, at Rome, the Cathedral at Milan, or the venerable Minster at York ; but the associations of St. Sophia render it deeply and painfully interesting, for consecrated once LETTERS. 47 to the worship of the living God, it now bears aloft the crescent instead of the cross. It was built by Justinian, and consecrated on Christ- mas eve, 538, to the " Divine "Wisdom," the second Person in the ever adorable Trinity. Sixteen years were occupied in its erection, and its consecration was accompanied with the slaughter of one thousand oxen, one thousand sheep, one thousand pigs, six hundred deer, ten thousand chickens, and a distribution of thirty thousand measures of corn to the poor. When every thing was in readiness for the consecration, the Emperor, accompanied by the Patriarch Eutychius, came to the great door of the church, where suddenly leaving the venerable priest, he ran to the altar, and eagerly em- bracing it, exclaimed, " God be praised, who hath es- teemed me worthy to complete such a work ! Oh, Sol- omon, I have surpassed thee !" All that was venerable in the old religions of the world was brought here to do honor to this magnificent temple, porphyry pillars from the great temple of the Sun, columns of verd-antique from the celebrated tem- ple of Diana of the Ephesians, and pillars from the Acropolis in Athens, from the temple of Osiris and Isis in Egypt, and from that of Apollo at Delos. For nearly a thousand years, Santa Sophia was used for the worship of the Most High God, but then a change came. Upon the fall of Constantinople, in 1453, thousands of Christians took refuge in the church. There they were pursued by the conquering Moslems, who were commencing a general massacre, intending afterwards to demolish the sacred edifice, when Moham- med the Second entered on horseback, rode up to the great altar, and there dismounted. Ascending the steps 48 LETTERS. of the altar, he proclaimed that the church of Jesus Christ should henceforth be sacred to the Prophet. The pic- tures were torn from the walls, the pulpit was over- thrown, the altar removed, and the rich mosaics that lined the dome daubed over with paint or with gilding. Over the altar, there was an image of Christ in mosaic, with a halo around the head, and even now, by gazing very intently, one can distinctly trace the whole figure through the gilding that covers it. The dome rises up two hundred feet from the pave- ment, and the effect is very fine, as you stand in one of the galleries, looking up to the very top of the dome, and then down upon the area below, over which the light, falling through stained glass, plays beautifully. We afterwards walked through the lower part of the edifice, between groups of men still on the floor at their devotions, or reading very rapidly and monotonously from the Koran, while the preaching was going on in a half dozen different parts of the mosque. Not the least striking feature of the scene, was the man follow- ing us, who carried the boots and shoes of the whole party slung over his shoulder, looking precisely like a peddler of second-hand boots and shoes. Our next visit was to the mosque of Sultan Achmet, which stands, as I told you before, on one side of the Hippodrome. The only thing to break the interior of this large mosque, is four immense pillars of white marble, that support the dome. White pillars, white floor, white walls, varied here and there with characters inscribed in gold on them, give an impression of purity and grandeur that a mosque of itself is not calculated to inspire, for beautiful as the building may be, you LETTERS. 49 cannot divest your mind of the fact it is erected to a false religion. The principal characteristic of the mosque of Sultan Achmet is its six minarets, no other mosque in the em- pire having more than four. He wished to build a mosque that would excel all others in beauty, and to effect this, he intended to give it six minarets. But the mufti, whose consent was necessary for the completion of this design, refused to sanction it, on the plea that the most holy of all the mosques, that at Mecca, had but four minarets. The Sultan maintained there were six, and the mufti then proposed that a caravan of pil- grims should be dispatched immediately to Mecca, to settle the question. The Sultan joyfully agreed, taking the precaution to send a swift courier before to order two extra minarets to be immediately erected, so when the pilgrims arrived, behold six minarets adorned the holy mosque. Achmet was no longer denied permis- sion to erect the six minarets, and when his mosque was completed, orders were sent to Mecca to take down the two new minarets, and the mosque of Sultan Ach- met stands, therefore, without a rival in the Ottoman empire, in its number of minarets. Willis, in his sprightly narrative of a " Summer Cruise in the Mediterranean," compares a minaret to an ever-pointed pencil-case, the bands around it answer- ing to the encircling galleries, one above another, from which the muezzin calls out the hour of prayer. The minarets are always of a dazzling white, the galleries encircling them are richly cut in fretwork, and rising to a height often of two or three hundred feet, they seem to pierce the very sky. Each of the seven hills on which Constantinople is built, is crowned with a 4 50 LETTERS. mosque, each having one large dome and a number of small ones, and from two to six minarets. Elevated .above the mass of the surrounding houses, the gilded crescents flashing in the sun, the domes swelling out in their perfect proportions, the slender minarets rising up so gracefully, these mosques form the most prominent feature of Constantinople, and are seen from every point of view. Once more we put off our shoes, and entered the mosque, or mausoleum of the late Sultan Mahmoud, an exquisite little gem of white marble, adorned with elaborate carvings and fretwork. Here repose the re- mains of Mahmoud himself, and several members of his family, each tomb made somewhat in the shape of an ark, higher and larger at the head than the foot, and having a steep roof, and over these were thrown rich cachemere shawls, the possession of any one of which would have thrown a New York belle into ecstasies. Stands of precious woods, inlaid with pearl and shell, silver and gold, support beautifully written and deco- rated copies of the Koran, and these are scattered in profusion around the tombs. By the time we had finished our survey of this mosque,* we were very tired, and finding the mosque of Sultan Sulyman was a long distance off, we voted to give up seeing it, as one mosque, in architectural design and finish, differs but little from another. I have since re- gretted this decision, for I have been told that was the most magnificent of all the mosques. A few words on mosques in general, and then I will have done with the subject. As I have said more than once, each mosque is distinguished by a principal centre dome, and this is generally supported by two or more LETTERS. 51 semi-domes at its base, and a greater or less number of small domes or cupolas over the angles of the building, and the arches of the corridors running around the court. Thus an imperial mosque is a vast edifice, two or three hundred feet square, having a mountain of cupolas and domes, varying in size, the centre one, like a large half globe, crowning the whole. These are relieved by round or narrow windows, adorned by deli- cate tracery and fretwork, cut in stone, and these win- dows, illuminated now in the Ramazan, present a beautiful sight, gleaming with myriads of lamps, ar- ranged to form Turkish characters. To give you some idea of the number of these domes and cupolas, I will just say the mosque of Sultan Achmet alone has more than thirty. Adjoining every mosque, is a large court, several hundred feet square, around the sides of which in the interior, run open arcades, supported often by pillars of precious marbles, the remains of the former glory and beauty of the ancient city, many of them having been taken from Christian temples. In the centre of the court, is a marble fountain, with a beautiful stone cano- py ; and here the Moslem stops to wash before entering the mosque to pray. Sometimes beautiful trees adorn these courts, and hundreds of pigeons flutter around the branches, fed at stated times each day by private bounty, a sum having been left for this purpose by some pious individuals. Tired as I was, I could not resist the temptation of strolling through some of the bazaars, but I found their aspect very different during the Ramazan from what it was before. Many of the Turkish bazaars were closed, 52 LETTERS. and the Turks we saw were no longer smoking, but lounging on their little counters, most of them asleep. I really cannot write another word except " good bye." LETTER LI. English Church. Beauties of the Bosphorus. Castles of Asia and Eu- rope. Black Sea. The Sultan. American Minister. Life at Buyuk- dere. Sweet Waters of Asia. Letters from Home. BOYUKDEBE, June 4th. MY DEAREST FRIENDS : Still in our delightful retreat and beautiful valley, for the meaning of the long word at the beginning of my letter, (pronounced Bu-yuk-de-re,) is " great valley." I have not yet finished my record of the past, so I once more go back. Last Sunday, we enjoyed the rare priv- ilege of going to church twice, a pleasure we have not known since we were in Alexandria. The services are held in a chapel in the palace of the English ambassa- dor in Pera, the church having been recently burnt to the ground. Owing to the great number of English at present here, on account of the war, the chapel was crowded, and to an eye accustomed to the every day attire of sober citizens, the officers in their scarlet uni- forms presented rather a strange sight. " The panoply of war," and the service of the Prince of Peace, how incongruous it seems, and yet may not good Christians be good soldiers, and vice versa ? On Monday, Mr. F., J. and myself took a four-oared caique, and came to Buyukdere, to complete our ar- rangements about coming here for an interval of rest. Every body has heard of the beauties of the Bosphorus, LETTERS. 53 and although I had formed a high idea of them, I am ready to confess I was not at all disappointed. In fact, I do not see how the lover of the picturesque and beau- tiful can be, for from Constantinople up the whole length of the Bosphorus, there is every thing to feast the eye. Twenty-six villages skirt the banks of these charming straits, ten on the Asiatic side, sixteen on the European. In Asia, they are scattering, green fields and wooded delis often coming down to the very water's edge. On the European side, the villages lie closer together ; in fact, it is difficult to tell where one leaves off and an- other begins. On both sides, the hills come down very near the water, so that the villages lie in a narrow val- ley, and stretch up the hillside. With the exception of a few palaces, and the mosques, the houses are of wood, but totally unlike what you would find in any other quarter of the globe. Fantastic in shape, picturesque in coloring, many of them set in a framework of green trees and brilliant flowers, backed by rolling hills, they present a constant succession of charming pictures. Palaces innumerable, belonging to the Sultan and differ- ent members of the Imperial family, to Pashas and Beys and other dignitaries of state, their closely lat- ticed windows, telling of treasures within, not to be seen by every eye, mosques, with their graceful mina- rets, forts, with their formidable looking cannon, ceme- teries, with their tall cypresses and white stones, gardens, with their rich foliage and beautiful flowers, ships and steamers lying almost under the projecting roofs of some of the palaces and houses, caiques darting along under the shade of balconies and lattices, the hills, some wooded, some covered with waving grass and ripening grain, many of them crowned with a kiosk, (summer 54 LETTERS. palace,) a castle, or a fort, or a country seat, luxuriant valleys opening up through the hills, sunny glades, wooded dells, wild ravines, these, and a hundred similar objects of interest, keep one's attention alive, every time the passage of the Bosphorus is made. On the European side, are two of the most beautiful mosques I have ever seen. They are built of marble of a dazzling whiteness, and are adorned with carvings and fretwork. The swelling dome, the two slender minarets, the dazzling brilliancy of the marble, make them perfect little gems ; indeed, I call them " the two gems of the Bosphorus." And then the winding of the Bosphorus, its beautiful little curves and graceful bends, give it a peculiar charm. Tiny bays and projecting promontories chase each other in quick succession. There is no tide, and often the houses rise directly from the water, while in other places a wide foot-path runs along in front. The current is rapid, and sets swiftly down from the Black Sea, so that in three places the caique was pulled up by a man, who ran along the bank, with a large rope fastened around one of the benches for the rowers, and the other end thrown over his shoulder, and his efforts to stem the powerful current, called in one place " the devil's cur- rent," were so great as to make him almost bend double. For this immense physical exertion, he demanded not quite two cents of our money. About half way between Constantinople and Buyuk- dere, on opposite points of the Bosphorus, stand the castles of Asia and Europe, the former built by Baja- zet, to control the navigation of the straits, the latter by his grandson, Mahomet, to impede it. The latter occupies much the most ground, and is said to repre- LETTERS. 55 sent, in shape, the name of Mohammed in Arabic char- acters. I have not much of an eye for military fortifica- tions, but I should say these were by no means the strongest in the world. A very pretty feature to me, in coming up the Bos- phorus, is to see the little graves nestling beneath a tree in some quiet, secluded garden, in sight of the windows, of the house to which the garden belongs, thus making the living and the dead seem side by side. At a sudden turn, the Black Sea opens before you, and beyond Buyukdere, the villages become more scat- tering, the hills seem higher, and the remains of one or two ancient castles are seen on some of the most promi- nent summits. Every hill and every vale have a ro- mantic or a historic legend connected with them, and as, in coming up, we rowed along the European side, and in returning, the Asiatic, we had a good opportunity to see every point, every bay, every palace and garden,, to the best advantage. Just before we reached Pera, we saw the Sultan's caique going down the Bosphorus. It is painted white, and adorned with gilding and carving to a magnificent extent. The Sultan reclined on the bottom of the caique, under a red umbrella, held over him by one of the high dignitaries, and we could not, therefore, see his face. Soldiers were drawn up on the shore to re- ceive him, the imperial flag was flying, the officers bowed themselves to the ground as he landed, a salute was fired, and he almost immediately disappeared from our sight, going into a mosque for evening prayers. We spent all the morning of Tuesday in the bazaars at Constantinople, in search of a shawl, but I found none to suit, not in quality, but in price. That day we bade- 56 LETTERS. farewell to Mr. and Mrs. R. and Mr. F., who have gone to Greece, and now, for the first time since entering Egypt, we are without companions. But we are not without kind friends, however, for our Minister to the Ottoman Porte, Hon. Carroll Spence, and his family, are at this hotel, and they are as kind and polite to us as though they had known us all our lives. Our rooms open upon a wide balcony or terrace, and when I am tired of writing, I step out and gaze upon the view around me. In front, the Bosphorus spreads out like a lake, so encircled is it by mountains ; on the right, the lower part of the bay of Buyukdere sweeps round, and on the left, at a little distance, is the en- trance td the Black Sea, while along the shore, stretches the town, a wide street running along the water's edge. The evenings are delicious ; the moon shedding a flood of light on bay and shore and verdant hill, and I say a hundred times a day, " I never saw a lovelier sight." Last Tuesday afternoon we arrived here, and took up our abode for the present, and already the breeze from the Euxine, and the still nights, have begun to restore my strength and spirits. We breakfast at ten, and dine at seven, and the meals are good, and our rooms clean and nice. Indeed, we have not been more comfortable since we left home, and if any one knows how to prize that word " comfortable," it is travellers, particularly those in the East. Yesterday, we took a caique and rowed down to the "Valley of Sweet Waters," just below the castle of Asia ; but, contrary to our expecta- tions, we found no one there. However, we took a long walk up the valley, which, although beautiful, will not compare with the "sweet waters" of Europe. The trees are large, the little river winds gracefully on, LETTERS. 57 spanned by several bridges, but the grass is crisp and dried, and looks as though a shower would refresh it. We went down to Pera this morning, in a steamboat, attended church twice, and reached home about seven o'clock. And what a feast awaited us on our return ! A package of ten letters ! Ever since we arrived at Pera, we had been expecting letters, and I began to fear the banker in London had not received the directions to send them here. But all suspense is now at an end ; the letters have arrived ; all at home are well, and we are happy. LETTER LII. Sir Stephen Lakeman. Mr. E.'s departure for Schumla. Kindness of American Minister. Bebcc. American Missionaries. Annual Meet- ing of Bible Society. Large Sycamores. Fine Ride. Bendt. Forest of Belgrade. Cottage of Lady Montague. Giant's Mountain. Le- gends. Genoese Castle. Shopping in Pera. Symplegades. BCYUKDERE, June 16th. To you, my mother, I have chosen to address this letter, and to write to you on this day, rather than any other, because it is your birthday, and afar off, over land and sea, I send you my greetings, and hearty wishes for many happy returns of the day. You may be sur- prised to find I am still here, and more surprised to see that I say " I" instead of " we," but I am alone just now, J having gone " to the wars." Soon after our arrival here, we made the acquaintance of an officer in the English army, Sir Stephen Lakeman, and every day when he rode out, he invited J to go with him, as he had a number of fine horses here, and if I had not 58 LETTERS. been such a coward, I might have gone too, but his horses looked quite too gay and spirited for me. A few days after the acquaintance was formed, he kindly invited J to go with him to Schumla, as he was going with his own horses, tents, cook, &c. Such an opportunity to see the country, the army and the great men, might not occur again in a lifetime, and for a week, to go or not to go, that was the question. The only obstacles were, that our journey would be retarded three weeks at least, and that I must be left behind and almost alone in a strange land. The first objection grew less and less formidable, for I had been taking a fatiguing journey, and a long rest would not be amiss. Besides, my heap of notes, to be enlarged and copied out, had not decreased according to my wishes, and a little more leisure would help me on quite wonderfully. The last objection speedily vanished, for our Minister, hearing of J.'s wishes to go, kindly offered to take care of me in his absence, and nobly has he thus far re- deemed his promise. I no longer dine at the public table, but in their own room, at five o'clock, thus giving me an opportunity to row or walk with them every evening. You need no assurances from me, to know that these acts of kindness do not fall on an ungrateful heart, but are dearly cherished as tokens of a kind in- terest in my welfare, that knows no bounds. The " pros and cons" being duly discussed, and thus satis- factorily decided, on the morning of the 14th, the trav- ellers set forth, and I have in prospect a period of rest of three weeks duration. And now I will go back a few days, and tell you what else has transpired since my last letter. On Monday, the 5th, Mr. S. invited us to row to Bebec with them, LETTERS. 59 but J was engaged to ride with Sir S., so I went, and enjoyed the excursion very much. They have a large caique with six oars, and instead of carrying a flag, to show that it is the boat of the American Minis- ter, it is painted on the outside in red and white stripes, with a border of blue, spotted with stars. Bebec is a beautiful village, encircling a little bay, just below the Castle of Europe. We landed under the shade of large sycamore trees, and went to the house of one of the American missionaries living there, where we had the pleasure of meeting some eight or ten cler- gymen, from different parts of the East, who are holding their annual meeting at present at Pera. Some of these missionaries have been thirty years from their native land, and in that long period have been home but once. I can only say they are made of different stuff from what I am, to be able to stay away so long. But they are doing their Master's work, and cannot easily leave, to their honor be it said. The next day we went down to Pera, with Mr. and Mrs. S. and the children, it being the anniversary of a Bible Society, of which his Excellency has been chosen President. At the opening of the meeting, he made an address, which was received with great applause, and was followed by speakers from all parts of the world, English chaplains in the army and navy, American mis- sionaries from the far East, and even a surgeon in the army, relating his experience of the benefits of a free circulation of the Bible. It was an occasion of great interest, from the fact that the speakers were thus of different professions, and from* different quarters of the globe. It was Whitsun-Tuesday, too, and it seemed to me almost a Pentecostal scene, for there were assembled 60 LETTERS. " dwellers in Mesopotamia, and in Judea and Cappado- cia, in Pontus and Asia, Phrygia and Pamphylia, Jews and proselytes," to say nothing of those distant coun- tries, England and America, unknown to the Christian world, when the Holy Ghost miraculously conferred the gift of tongues. Though I have now been on the Bosphorus more than a half dozen times, I constantly see new beauties to admire. The picturesque houses, the rich coloring, the rolling hills, the lights and shades, the transparent water, the glorious hues of the clouds, the gorgeous palaces, the magnificent gardens, the groups sitting here and there under the trees, at the close of the day, the soldiers standing at their posts, the caique gliding quickly through the water, these are a few of the far- famed charms of the Bosphorus, charms, I believe, that never pall upon the sight. Before we arrived here, that afternoon, the sun went down in a flood of brilliant hues, the Ramazan gun boomed out, and echoed and re-echoed from the hills, and from the minarets came forth the call to evening praye'r. And then beyond the mountain top, the moon suddenly beamed forth, and a new beauty was added to the lovely scene. On Wednesday, I overcame my timidity so far as to be persuaded to mount a beautiful Arabian pony belong- ing to Sir S. L., and although he was a spirited little creature, he was gentle and easily managed. But I rode in constant terror, though I tried to enjoy the scene, for it was a lovely country through which we were passing. Just after leaving Buyukdere, we turned a little aside to see the immense trees under which Godfrey of LETTERS. 61 Bouillon and Raymond of Toulouse encamped on their way to Palestine. One of these trees measures forty feet around the trunk. We rode along a paved road for some little distance, our horses slipping over the large stones, for it had rained that morning, but soon we left the stones behind us, and then we entered upon a road so good that if I had seen it in Palestine or Syria, I should have thought it had lost its way. Under the o'erspreading branches of large trees, a murmuring rivulet running by our side, and gleaming here and there among the grass and leaves, our way laid, and then we passed under the arches of an aqueduct built by Valens and Justinian, and soon after came to a large reservoir of water, enclosed in solid masonry, and surrounded by trees and shrubs. This is called a " bendt," and here the water is collected to supply the aqueduct which extends to Constantinople. We saw three of these " bendts," the last two adorned with marble balustrades, and here and there a little sculp- ture. And then the magnificent trees that throw their shadow over the water, and the grass below, so free from underbrush, and the little red strawberries peeping here and there from their leafy bed, and the blue sky above, seen through the many boughs, what a scene it all was ! Reclining on the grass, beside a rippling, gushing fountain, we ate our lunch, while the horses fed with much apparent relish on the luxuriant grass. This was the forest of Belgrade, and near here is a cottage, in which the witty Lady Montague dwelt for some time, and where she wrote many of her interesting letters. As we came back into the village, it began to rain, so we sought shelter in a house till the shower was over, 62 LETTERS. but before we were half way home, the rain came on again, and I got nicely wet. Last Thursday, his Ex- cellency went down to Pera in his caique, and invited us to go with him, and we once more enjoyed the de- lights of the Bosphorus, and again spent several hours in the bazaars of Constantinople. They do not seem like the same places they were before the Ramazan commenced, so many of the little stalls are closed, while their owners are at home, sleeping away the effects of the last night's excess. Still, the bazaars present an animating sight, and I do not think I should soon grow weary of them. The next three days I spent very quietly, scarcely going out of my room, except to my meals. Diligently I labored with my pen, and when my mind and my body grew weary, I went upon the terrace, and looked abroad on the Bosphorus. And when night came with its quiet, and rest from labor, and the bright stars shone out, and the full moon appeared in all her glory, then care and labor were forgotten, and the delicious scene brought peace and repose to the weary spirit. On Monday, we rowed across the Bosphorus, and as- cended the Giant's Mountain. It was a long walk, but not a very fatiguing one, for we stopped a half dozen times to feast our eyes upon the exquisite view around us. Byron says, " ' Tis a good sight from off the Giant's cave, To watch the progress of these rolling seas, Between the Bosphorus, as they lash and lave Asia and Europe." I have already said so much of the Bosphorus, I am afraid you will grow weary of the subject, and yet I feel I have not done it justice. The theme of the historian, LETTERS. 63 the novelist, the traveller and the poet, it has been de- scribed a thousand times, and for one, I am ready to say I do not think it has ever been overdrawn. The Giant who gave his name to this mountain, showed his taste for beautiful scenery, by selecting such a spot for his abiding place. Mussulman tradition says he was a Dervish, and that his sanctity was equal to his stature, which makes him a very holy man indeed, in- asmuch as it is affirmed he sat on the summit of the mountain, and bathed his feet in the limpid waters of the Bosphorus, far, far down below. The legend of the Christian is, that he was a man of immense stature and ferocious nature, to whom the Symplegades were vas- sals, and who, from his lofty station on the mountain top, watched the approach of every ship that ventured to brave the rough waters of the Euxine. From this elevated spot, we had a magnificent view of the undulating banks of the Bosphorus, its castled rocks, smiling valleys, and beautiful bays, across which the little caiques were skimming like birds. Hill and dale and wooded glade intervened between us and the Black Sea, which swept far away, till sea and sky were blended in one deep and heavenly blue. On the summit of a hill, a little distance beyond us, were the remains of an old castle, known by the name of "the Genoese Castle." It is said this castle was once defended by a fair young girl, the daughter of the governor, who was killed in its defence, and that for three days after her father fell, she boldly held out against the enemy, her little garrison growing weaker and more dispirited every day, till at last she fell, a vic- tim to her bravery and stout resistance. Once more I have been up and down the Bosphorus, 64 LETTERS. for J found it necessary to go to Pera, to make some preparations for his departure. We made another attempt to see the dancing Dervishes, but without suc- cess. The remainder of the day was devoted to shop- ping, a transaction not always attended by pleasant circumstances, particularly in Pera, where different articles are scattered in the most unlooked-for places, the nicest boots and shoes being often found in a candy shop, and ready-made coats and vests in a furniture store ! Day before yesterday, Sir S. L. and his party set out, and I need not say what my feelings were, when I returned to my solitary room, after seeing them off. But the consciousness that both I and mine are in the hands of One who never slumbers or sleeps, and that He can watch over all, whether separated or together, buoys me up, and I go about my accustomed duties and pleasures with unabated cheerfulness and alacrity. Yesterday morning, Mr. S. and his family and myself went up to the Black Sea, about six or seven miles from here. As we approached the sea, the villages grew more and more scattering along the shore of the Bosphorus, and the hills more steep and rugged. The current was very strong, but our three boatmen pulled well, and the caique danced over the waters " like a thing of life." Huge porpoises leaped about us, and white gulls floated lazily on the water, while myriads of little birds sped by us, almost touching the water with their wings. These birds go from the Black Sea down the Bospho- rus, and back, and are never seen to alight, and they are said by the Turks to be the spirits of the wicked, doomed to roam up and down the straits, knowing no rest. At the entrance of the Bosphorus into the Black Sea, LETTEES. 65 on the left hand, is a cluster of rocks, called the Sym- plegades. We climbed, with some difficulty, to the top of these rocks, and the boatmen, bringing up our pro- visions, we hoisted the American flag, and we ate our lunch there, sitting around a column of white marble, about six feet in height and three in circumference. "When this pillar was erected, no one seems to know ; some say it was put up there in honor of Pompey, others of Apollo. There we sat, with the Black Sea before us, not looking black, as in my childhood I thought it must, to deserve its name, but calm and clear and blue, its fair surface dotted here and there with a white sail. Our hunger being appeased, and our eyes tired of look- ing on the dazzling sea, we clambered down, not with- out a few slippings on the rock, and with merry laughter at our awkwardness. "We rowed a little way up the sea, but calm and smooth as it looked from the rocks, we found it quite boisterous, when once upon its bosom, and the waves dashed over our prow quite merrily, so we were content to turn back. And thus, in a dry and journal-like manner, I have told you of our doings the last two weeks ; but uninter- esting as the manner is, I hope the matter will not prove utterly devoid of interest to you. My mother, adieu. 5 66 LETTERS, LETTER LIII. Daily Routine. Adventure. Feast of the Beiram. Close of the Ra- mazan. Night Scene on the Bosphorus. Mr. Brown. Scene at Dawn. Seraglio. Kissing the Feet. The Sultan. BUYUKDEEE, June 25th. MY DEAK GIRLS : It is Sunday afternoon, and nearly all day I have sat alone in my room, while my thoughts have wandered a hundred times to my far distant home, and to all I love there ; and as I know a letter sent from such a distance would give you much pleasure, I thought I would write this time to you. Since I last wrote home, my days have passed in a quiet, pleasant routine, reading, writing, sewing, walking or rowing, but I am sorry to say my nights have not been at all tranquil, for I have now a room that opens upon the street, and night after night, dogs are barking, and cats are howling, fiddles are squeaking, and men are roaring, till long after midnight, and I must say I think that a queer religion that leads people to fast all day and revel all night, and for one, I shall be glad when the Ramazan is over, and, by the way, it ends to-day. The rooms we had before your uncle went away, were double rooms, but, of course, I did not want to be at the expense of keeping them, when I need but one room, so now I have a room that looks down upon the street, and abroad upon a high and beautifully wooded hill, while on the right I have a view of the Bosphorus, almost to its entrance into the Black Sea. Sometimes in the morning we walk out, going to the large trees about a mile from here, and Mrs. S. and I LETTERS. 67 sit with our work under their grateful shade, while the children take turns in riding 011 their donkey. At other times, we row several miles down the Bosphorus, and landing near a spring, regale ourselves with cold water, a luxury unknown at this hotel. Over on the Asiatic side, are lovely valleys, and several of these we have visited, strolling along under magnificent trees, or sitting upon the grass, with books and work. After dinner, we invariably go out, one evening walking along the quay, meeting half of the inhabitants of the town, either sitting at their doors, or sauntering along the streets, and the next evening, going in the caique. Most of all, I enjoy a row on the Bosphorus at that hour. Groups of people sitting under trees in front of a rural cafe, sipping coffee or sherbet, the soft light upon the hills, and the lengthened shadows in the val- leys, the white minarets rising from clusters of trees, and glittering with the last rays of the sun, the delicate coloring of the clouds, and the soft tints spread over the water, the caiques darting hither and thither, the little birds speeding rapidly on, the bustling steamer, the stately ship, with all sails spread, the delicious air, all have their peculiar charms. Often as I now have been on the Bosphorus, I am never weary of it, but every day I seem to see it under a new aspect. Last Thursday, I was obliged to go down to Pera to see my dress-maker, who, by the way, belongs to the sterner sex, and who had disappointed me, a habit by no means confined to dress-makers in the East, and as Mrs. S. wanted some shopping done, she sent her nurse down with me, to attend to it. Having but little to do, I thought I should have ample time to leave here at twelve o'clock, and return at half past five, but I had 68 LETTERS. forgotten how difficult it was to accomplish shopping with ease in Pera, and we found ourselves very much hurried towards the last. Then I lost my way going to the- bridge, from which the steamers up the Bosphorus start, and that hindered us, so that the hour for leaving had passed before we reached the bridge, but knowing that Turkish punctuality is always to be behind the time, I did not feel very uneasy. When we had tra- versed half the bridge, a new difficulty appeared, for the draw was open, to let a steamship pass through. The whistles of the steamers sounded, and I could look ahead and see the black smoke issuing from the pipes, and then I knew we had not a minute to lose, so calling out " caique," a dozen of them instantly came along- side the bridge, and a dozen voices clamored out. But not a word of Turkish could we understand or speak, but " yes" and " no," so I selected the foremost caique. But how to get down to the crazy little egg-shell was a question. No time was to be lost, and we crawled under the railing of the bridge, and prepared to jump down, when another new difficulty made its appearance. A man and a woman, I cannot call them a gentleman and a lady, though they were nicely and fashionably dressed, were sitting on the railing, gazing at the steam- ship going through the draw, and on the bridge stood an oblong sort of a bundle, tied up in a colored hand- kerchief. In my haste to get under the railing, my dress swept the bundle over, and immediately I heard a crash. Down leaped the man and the woman ; one grabbed me by one wrist and the other by the other, demanding, in furious tones, reparation of the grievous wrong I had done them in breaking a bottle of wine. I asked pardon in the choicest French and Italian I LETTERS. 69 could muster, but they did not seem to understand much of either language, so I suppose they were Greeks or Armenians. At last, (how long it seemed,) I made them understand I was willing to pay, and wanted to know how much would satisfy them. " Twenty pias- tres." I venture to say the wine did not cost five, but I suppose it is not every day they have a bottle of wine broken, and they wished to make the most of it. I was in haste, else I would have gone with them to the em- bassy and had it settled, so I opened my purse and handed him a bill, (for they have paper money here, and villainous looking stuff it is, too, like the " shin- plasters" we once had in the United States,) and went on my way. Unfortunately, it proved to be ten piastres, instead of twenty, and once more he flew at me, catch- ing a book from my hand, which he intimated he should keep till I gave liim the money. The book was not mine, or I would have given it up and walked on, so I tried to get the book back, but the wretch caught me by the wrist, and once more demanded his money. Margaret, having no intention of letting the book go, (it belonged to Mr. Spence,) now came to my rescue, and being mistress of no other tongue than her own, treated the man to a good, sound American scolding. A crowd gathered round, the whistles shrieked, I must either go then, or stay in Pera all night, so throw- ing him a note for twenty piastres, and springing down into the caique, I bade the man row quickly to the Buyukdere steamer. But which one ? for there were three. " I do not care which, only put us on board one," I cried, but before we went many steps, two of them started. The man, screaming for them to stop, rowed into a narrow space directly between the two, while the 70 LETTERS. signal was given for the engines to be stopped, to take us in. Already in danger from the paddles, I would not have mounted either of those little ladders thrown over the side, for the half of Buyukdere, so I motioned to the man to row to the next steamer, which was just ready to start. More dead than alive, I was hauled up the ladder, and we were half way up the Bosphorus, before I recovered strength or composure, while my wrist ac- tually showed for hours the marks of that brute's vio- lence. So much for being in a hurry ! To-morrow is a great festival at Constantinople, the feast of the Beiram, when all the grandees of the em- pire are permitted to kiss the Sultan's feet ! Mr. and Mrs. S , to give me an opportunity of witnessing the ceremony, had most kindly prepared to go down, and as it takes place early in the morning, we are to leave here by four o'clock. To be sure it will be something of a trial to get up so early, but I am certain the Bosphorus must look lovely at that hour. Tuesday Evening. While we were at dinner on Sunday, we ascertained that the ceremony of the Beiram commenced much earlier Monday morning, than we had imagined, and that it would be impossible to arrive at Constantinople in season to witness it, unless we left here in the night, so we concluded to go down to Pera that evening. The caique was ordered, our arrange- ments were speedily made, and at half past six, we were on the Bosphorus. Shall I ever forget that night ? The current took us out into the middle of the straits, and we therefore had an excellent view of both banks. Never did the Bosphorus seem more lovely. The soft- ened light threw a mellow tint over hill and grove, pal- ace and mosque, house and garden ; the tall cypress LETTEES. 71 looked more dark and stately than ever, and the white headstones beneath them, more unearthly and mysteri- ous. Under every clump of trees, sat a group of per- sons in their holiday attire, and Armenian and Turk, Greek and English, were seen sauntering along the shore. Soldiers stood at their guns, saluting the Min- ister as we passed, the Greek Priest walked from village to village, his thin veil of black crape floating back upon the breeze. And then the sun went down, and the groups upon the shore became shadowy and indistinct. Hark ! from the castles of Europe and Asia, boom forth the sunset guns, and peal after peal reverberates through the air, each hill sending back a separate echo* The Rarnazan is over, and the guns from every fort, up and down the Bosphorus, send abroad the joyful news. We are passing a mosque, its white minaret stand- ing out distinctly in the faint light. A dark form ap- pears in one of the galleries, the hands are raised, and forth upon the evening air, came the sonorous sounds, " There is but one God, and Mohammet is his prophet, come to prayers." Minaret after minaret sends forth a like cry, and thousands of Mohammedans, obeying the call, prostrate themselves before their God. The soft and dreamy twilight comes on, hill and grove, palace and mosque, house and garden are mingled mysteriously together in dim outline, till suddenly light flashes forth. Every dome is lit up, every gallery shows fantastic characters, the palace of the Sultan has a line of lights in front, and the city, we are rapidly approach- ing, gleams forth like a scene in fairy land. What painter could do justice to the glorious hues of the evening sky, reflected back in the smooth sea ! Oh ! 72 LETTEES. gorgeous Eastern land ! oh ! magnificent Constantino- ple ! How queenly she sat that night on her seven hills, every summit crowned by a vast mosque, whose proudly swelling dome and towering minarets sent forth a blaze of light ! Landing at Tophana, we passed the beautiful foun- tain, arrayed in fantastic splendor, from the little lamps around on the stands where fruit and candy, and crisp cakes, and sherbet and ices, were ready to tempt the passer-by. Slowly we toiled up the steep hills, treading very daintily on the round stones, the Ka- vass, (a Turkish officer) with his sword, ahead to clear the way for his excellency, no foreign minister ever walking out, without such an attendant. Arriving at the Hotel de Byzance, we found it full, not a bed to be had, though lodging could be obtained out. But the minister sent a note to Mr. Brown, drag- oman of the embassy, stating our dilemma, and in a short time, an answer came back, that he had rooms for all. I felt delicate about intruding myself on pri- vate hospitality, but there was no alternative, for, as we should be obliged to go out early the next morning, it was necessary for me to keep with my party. Kindly we were received, and kindly we were entertained. What American that has ever visited Constantinople, has not received kindness at the hands of Mr. Brown ? A scholar, a gentleman, perfectly acquainted with the Turkish language and habits, and history, which his long residence at the Ottoman court, has given him rare facilities for acquiring, he is ever ready to impart infor- mation to the traveller, eager to know somewhat about the interesting people among whom he finds himself. We were to be called at four o'clock the next morn- LETTERS. 73 ing, but afraid of oversleeping myself, I awoke at half past three. I opened the window to get more light to look at my watch, and I did not close it again very soon, for such a scene burst upon me, as I have not often witnessed. Dawn was breaking, and sea and land were awakening to new life and loveliness. Below me, down the hills of Tophana, was a mass of red roofs ; beyond, gleamed the Golden Horn, across whose smooth surface, even at that early hour, were speeding the little caiques, and still farther on, rose the seven-hilled city, her magnificent domes and towering minarets and gild- ed crescents", standing out in full relief against the blushing sky. Away in the distance lay the sheeny sea, a rock-girt island looking dark and frowning, in con- trast to the placid waters. " Lovely, lovely scene !" I exclaimed a half dozen times. All my objections to early rising, vanished before a view like that, and I am sure if I lived near Constantinople, I would often get up early to feast my senses on a scene so exquisite. Brighter and brighter dawned the day, and more and more distinctly came out each beautiful object. Now I saw the old Seraglio, peeping out from its leafy cov- ert ; now the waters of the Golden IJorn shone out more brightly, and now the gilded crescents flashed in the increasing light. A tap at my door aroused me from my meditation, and I turned from the window to make my toilet, which I accomplished in great 'haste, that I might have the more leisure for gazing at the glorious scene without. The party was soon assembled in the parlor ; we partook of a slight repast, and then went out. Even at that early hour, every one was stirring, for it was a great festival among the Turks. Turbaned men and 74 LETTERS. shrouded women and noisy children filled the streets. Around every cafe" sat groups of men in picturesque attire, with coffee and pipes beside them, and every moment we jostled against man or boy with tray on their heads, in which (the tray, not the heads I mean) were cakes or bread for sale. Down the steep streets, and over the rough stones we went till we reached Tophana, and then getting into the caique, were speedily rowed across the Bosphorus to Seraglio Point. Dozens of caiques were moored at the wharf, and we found the ceremony had already commenced, for the Sultan had gone to the mosque. Up the shaded paths of the Seraglio grounds, through court after court, and gate after gate our way led, till we reached the large court,* where the ceremony of " kissing the feet" was to take place. Here we found a crowd of people, though not a thousandth part of what we might have expected such a scene to call forth. I did not see a Turkish woman among them, and ex- cepting the soldiers and kavasses, hardly a Turk, but French and English, and Armenian and Greek, were well represented, and we heard more than a half dozen different languages around us. We had a good place under the shade of a tree, where we could command the whole view. I think we waited more than half an hour, and then a signal an- nounced that the Sultan was leaving the mosque. A company of soldiers came first; and then followed the horses belonging to the Sultan, ten in number. What splendid animals these were too ! Each one had a sad- dle cloth of velvet, embroidered with gold, and stepped on as proudly, as though he was conscious of carrying royalty on his back. Next came the body guard, in an LETTERS. 75 uniform of red and white, and caps surmounted by a knot of feathers, of every color of the rainbow. And now came Sultan Abdel Medjib, " the servant of the all-glorious, the refuge of the world," mounted on a grey horse, the saddle cloth covered with rich em- broidery, and the bridle decorated with diamonds. The Sultan wore white pantaloons, embroidered with gold up and down the sides, and a loose frock coat of blue cloth, the collar and cuffs studded with diamonds. A small cap of red velvet, with a feather fastened in with a diamond clasp, completed his attire. He rode slowly on, his eyes 'fixed on vacancy, and never turned his head to the right or the left. The gentlemen, (at least those who wore hats,) uncovered as he passed, but no cheers were given. He entered the Palace, and then another long interval of waiting was passed, while he "reposed," that is, smoked a pipe, and drank some coffee, and if report says true, took something a little stronger. I wondered no larger cavalcade followed him from the mosque, but I was told they came in by a more pri- vate entrance, and were awaiting their turn to be pre- sented to his Imperial Majesty. Under an arch, in front of the Seraglio, the ceremony of kissing the feet of the Sultan was to take place, and the tediousness of waiting was lightened a little by wit- nessing the preparations made for the great event. A rich carpet was brought out, glittering with gold, and laid upon the ground, and on it was placed a gilded sofa, and, that no dust should alight where his Majesty was to sit, a heavy cloth of gold was thrown over the entire sofa. At length, (and an interminable length it seemed) 76 LETTERS. symptoms of the Sultan's approach appeared. The body guard ranged themselves in a semi-circle around the gilded throne, their heads so heavy with their plumed caps, that they seemed to be moving very cau- tiously, for fear of becoming top-heavy. The band of music was stationed at a distance in front of the arch, and the soldiers were drawn up in lines, in the avenue. A gun boomed forth ; the music struck up, the cloth of gold was flourished from the sofa, and the Sultan ap- peared, and took his seat. Then one loud cheer rent the air, and distinctly were pronounced the words by hundreds of voices, " Sultan Abdel Medjib, may he live a thousand years ;" (not in English as I have given them, but in Turkish.) The Sultan stood up ; a venerable Mufti, clothed in flowing white robes, stood before him, and raising his hands in one of the prescribed postures of the Moslem form, uttered a short prayer, the Sultan raising his hands, and every Turk and soldier on the ground, doing the same. The " amen" was another cheer, and a rep- etition of the wish that the Sultan might live a thou- sand years, (rather too long I should think for com- fort.) Then followed the presentation, and my eyes were dazzled with the rich array of gold embroideries before me. First came the Grand Yizier, then the ex-Grand Viziers, the Ministers of State and leading dignitaries, each dressed in military costume, literally covered with embroidery. The Sultan stood upon a footstool, and each one as he came up, bowed to the ground, waving his hand, seeming to touch the earth with it, approach- ed the throne, bowed again, then throwing himself on his knees, before the Sultan, humbly kissed, not his feet LETTEES. 77 as I expected, but the border of his coat, pressing it afterwards to his breast and his forehead. Rising then from his knees, he once more bowed to the ground, re- treated to the edge of the carpet, with his face towards the Sultan, bowed again, and then took his place in a semi-circle on the right of his Imperial Majesty. What a ceremony this was to go through! I am sure much practice must have been necessary, before all the bow- ing, and bending, and kneeling could be performed with ease and grace. To be sure, in backing out from the Sultan's immediate presence, one Pasha, tripped and fell full length on the ground, quickly rising up how- ever, covered with confusion, and I might add, with dust. The Sultan then sat down, the Grand Vizier stand- ing on his right, and those who had had the honor of kissing the Sultan's coat, in a semi-circle beyond, and every time the Sultan spoke to the Grand Vizier, which was quite often, he bowed to the ground, at the com- mencement and end of every sentence. On the left of the Sultan, stood an officer holding the imperial scarf, once belonging to the Prophet himself, and then the inferior Pachas, Beys, and other officers went through a process of bowing and kissing the scarf, each one pressing it afterwards to his forehead and breast, but none of these were permitted the honor of kissing the hem of the Sultan's garment. Hundreds approached to kiss the scarf, and after a little, I grew weary, so I watched the Sultan. He looked bored, and actually seemed as though he did not know what to do with his hands, like many an awkward man at home. At last, he rolled them up in his coat sleeves, and seem- ' ed delighted with such a cosy place for them. All this 78 LETTERS. while, the band was " discoursing most eloquent music," and I recognized one or two familar Italian airs. The leader of this band is Donizetti, brother to the far famed composer. At last there came a change ; the Sultan stood up, the cheers burst forth, and a line of muftis and imaunis came up clothed in long flowing robes, of white and green and purple and grey, decked with gold embroid- ery, and immense turbans of white and green with a broad gold band around them, (the descendants of the prophets only being permitted to wear the green tur- bans). Each one of these had the honor of kissing the hem of the coat, and I wondered how those old men, for some of them had venerable grey beards, ever got through that maze of bowing and kneeling, but I sup- pose they are used to it. The scarf-kissing commenced again, the music pealed forth a joyous strain, and then a flourish of drums and trumpets announced that the ceremony was over. The Sultan made a speedy exit, the sofa was dragged away, the gorgeous carpet was snatched up, and the crowd began to disperse. Cannons were fired in quick succes- sion, announcing that the Sultan had entered the palace of his fathers. It was not seven o'clock when we left the Seraglio grounds, and I sighed at the thought of the long day before me. I should have been glad to have gone again into the bazaars, but I was told the Turkish ba- zaar would be closed. The row back to Tophana was exceedingly refreshing to me, after standing so long, for I had not sat down once while I was on the ground, but the walk up to Mr. Brown's was not so easy. Till breakfast time, which was between ten and eleven LETTERS. 79 o'clock, I regaled myself with reading papers from the United States, but they were so full of murders and riots, I more than once blushed for my country. After break- fast, I had some shopping to do, of course, and that being duly attended to, I had ample time to rest before dinner. We left at six, and though I was wearied with having been up so long, I enjoyed the row here very much. Before we reached Buyukdere, the night came on, solemn and grand, and thousands of little fire-flies danced among the leaves on the banks. I was not in my room many minutes, before I was in bed, for I had been up more than eighteen hours ; rather a long day. Again we were on the Bosphorus this even- ing, and stopping at one of our favorite haunts, sat for a long time under the trees, coming home in the deli- cious twilight. I have now, my dear girls, written you a long letter, and I hope it is one that will interest you. Last Satur- day being dear little J-.'s birthday, I thought a great deal of you all, and longed to be once more in your midst. LETTER LIY. Garden of the Russian Embassy. Sweet Waters of Asia. Return from the Wars. Fourth of July. Turkish Bath. BUYUKDERE, July 2d. MY DEAR P. : As I cannot go to church to-day, there being none nearer than Pera, I have chosen to devote a part of this 80 LETTERS. day to communing with you at home. I have, to be sure, but little to write, as I am leading a very quiet, though agreeable life, for such a long period of rest I do not often enjoy when travelling. I generally go out twice a day, early in the morning, and after dinner. Twice I have walked in the garden of the Russian em- bassy, not often visited by strangers, especially now that the ambassador is away, and the palace closed. This garden is very extensive, stretching along the shore of the Bosphorus, and reaching to the summit of the mountain in the rear. Winding walks, shaded by trees, through whose thick foliage the sun rarely penetrates, fountains, whose rippling sound delights the ear, glimpses of the blue Bosphorus below and green hills be- yond, these are some of the charms of this garden. Far- ther up the hillside, is a large vineyard, the vine planted in rows along the ground, and beyond, an orchard of fig and apricot and peach trees. Almost at the summit of the hill, we sat down one day, under the spreading branches of a venerable tree, and there we had a fine view of the Bosphorus. En- circled by mountains, it lay like a lake before us, its blue surface broken here and there by a noble looking ship. The Turkish fleet is at present at anchor in the bay of Buyukdere, and the red flag, with a white cres- cent, is waving from nearly every mast-head in sight. From my elevated seat that day, I counted forty-seven different vessels, not all of them Turkish, a few being French and English. Down the Bosphorus, I saw the houses of Therapia and Yenicue, and on the opposite shore of Asia, the new palace which either Abbas Pacha is building for the Sultan, or the Sultan for Abbas Pacha, I don't exactly know which. The hills that LETTERS. 81 border the Bosphorus are beautifully shaped, not sharp and prominent, but gently rolling, with green, round tops, and often with wooded sides. Opposite to us, rose the Giant's mountain, and just beyond, the ruins of the Genoese castle, while still farther on, the Black Sea opened. What a beautiful scene it was ! And the little caiques flew hither and thither like birds over the water, and the gallant ship sailed majestically by, and the noisy steamer puffed and wheezed, and notwithstanding all this life and activity,, the blue waters looked as calm and motionless, as though never stirred by a breeze. Again I repeat, what lovely- scenes the Bosphorus constantly presents. Last Friday, we went down to the valley of " sweet waters" on the Asiatic side, about half way between- this and Constantinople. It is a lovely valley, but the grass now is crisp and yellow, as though suffering from drought. Along the " sweet waters," dozens of caiques were moored, and under every tree, and in every little glade, sat groups of people, their gay colors in pretty contrast with the foliage above them. Rich carpets and cushions were spread on the ground, carriages decked with gilded carvings were drawn up under the trees, while the horses quietly grazed around ; strolling bands of musicians showed off their skill, jugglers played their wonderful tricks, handsome children gam- bolled on the grass and ran from tree to tree, and groups of women, in their white yashmacks and their cloaks of gay colors, reclined on their cushions or sauntered among the trees. A little hammock was hung between two trees, and there a mother left her babe asleep, while she went down to a rivulet that murmured near, and washed out 6 82 LETTERS. some clothes, leaving them on the grass to dry ; so she combined work and pleasure together. Delicious apri- cots, cherries, green gages and other fruits were carried about for sale, immense cucumbers were seen in piles on the ground, ices, flavored with cherry, but looking as though colored with beets, were handed round in minute tumblers, and a great variety of so-called sher- bets were displayed on every side. Families assembled in groups under the trees, and the baskets of provisions were opened, cucumbers, bread and fruit being the principal contents, and every one seemed to be happy and contented. How many times we said to each other, " Why cannot our people at home oftener give themselves up to such innocent pleasures and recreation?" The Americans, as a nation, know little of what people in the East consider the enjoy- ment of life, and they really seem to look upon time spent away from business and duty, as time lost. Yet how much happier, how much healthier would they be, if they would but pass a little more time in the open air, away from the cares of the counting-house and the shop, and the drudgery of every day life in the house. July 4th. Our national jubilee was ushered in this morning by the news of the safe arrival of the wanderer from the wars, and if any salutes had been fired, it might have been a matter of dispute whether they were in honor of the day, or of his return. The Ameri- cans residing in Pera and its environs, intended having a pic-nic to-day, near " the sweet waters" of Asia, but quite contrary to the usual custom on the Fourth of July, the rain poured down in such torrents during the whole morning, as to effectually wash away all ideas of .a pic-nic. There have been several showers since our L E T T EJR S . 83 arrival here, but this is the only real pouring rain we have seen since we were at Jerusalem, nearly three months, which is certainly a long interval of pleasant weather. Sunday Evening-, 9th. This is our last day at Bu- yukdere, for to-morrow we leave for Athens, and after a sojourn of nearly six weeks among the lovely scenes of the Bosphorus, you may be sure I feel quite sadly at bidding them adieu, doubtful, as it is, if I shall ever see them more. Independent of the pleasure I have experienced from visiting so many beautiful spots about here, my long stay has not been altogether in vain, for by laboring dili- gently three or four hours a day, I have been" enabled to bring up that tardy journal of mine, and to arrange my notes and memoranda in a business-like way, so that I go away from here lightened of the heavy load of care that a journal, deplorably in arrears, brings upon one. Since my last entry in this lengthened out epistle, I have taken a long walk to the top of the mountain in rear of our hotel, and enjoyed another extensive view of the windings of the Bosphorus, even getting a glimpse of some of the minarets of Constantinople. I have been again to the Black Sea, and again landed upon the Symplegades. And more than all else, I have been on the Bosphorus by moonlight, when its beauties seemed more enchanting and picturesque than ever. I have once more braved the steamings and sousings and scrubbings of a Turkish bath, bearing up under all, with the hope that some of the traces of the sun of Arabia and Syria might be washed and steamed away, but no such favorable consequence seems to have ensued. This morning, at the request of Lady G., Mr. E. read 84 LETTERS. prayers in her drawing room, and though the congrega- tion was small, it was a select one, consisting of Lord and Lady G., the wives of two officers in the English army, Mr. M. and his wife, occupying for many years a prominent station in the British possessions in North America, the family of the American Ambassador, and our fellow traveller in the Desert, Mr. R., son of Gen- eral R. A more pleasant circle than this, it has not often been our lot to meet while travelling, and it is one of my sources of regret at leaving this place, that I must say good bye to so many agreeable acquaintances. And this is my last letter from Buyukdere, and I go to the window and take one more view of the dark mountain rising beyond, and to the terrace, and gaze once more upon the Bosphorus, shining " beneath the moon's soft gleam," and for the thousandth time I say, "How lovely it is!" LETTER LV. Departure from Buyukdere. Austrian Steamer. Scene on Board. Beautiful Girl. Dardanelles. Mitylene. Isles of Greece. Smyrna. Austrian Officer. Delos. Syra. Quarantine. Discomfort. Arrival at Athens. Palace. Hotel des Etrangeres. ATHENS, July 14th. Mr DEAR S. : If there is one time more than another when a trav- eller feels especially uncomfortable, it is the first few hours after arriving at a strange place. This has been especially our case this morning, because the rooms we are to occupy are not yet vacant, and I can't begin to unpack, because trunks and boxes and portmanteaus LETTERS. 85 must all be moved in a little time. I can't read, for two reasons ; I am not in a mood for it, and if I were, I have nothing to read, and at last I have unlocked my desk, to spend my dullness on you, which I hope you will receive as a great compliment, imputing to you, as it does, the power to chase away my unquiet spirit. "We left Buyukdere Monday morning, J. in the steam- boat, with the luggage, and I in the caique belonging to Mr. Spence. It was excessively hot, the usual cool breeze from the Black Sea not having made its appear- ance ; but in despite of the scorching sun, I looked long and well at all my favorite views on the Bosphorus. We were only two hours in rowing down, and we found in the harbor of Constantinople, what we failed to find higher up, a good breeze. I spent two or three hours in the bazaars, making my last purchases, and taking my last look, and I can assure you it was with quite a heavy heart and a languid step I went from place to place, often whispering sadly to myself, " It is the last time !" With our usual punctuality, we were early on board the Austrian Steamer L'Imperatrice, though this time, the merit was not due to our punctuality, but because we had nothing particular to Keep us on shore. We were anchored in front of Seraglio Point, and for a long time I amused myself with looking at the old Palace peeping out from her gardens, and the domes and minarets of St. Sophia and Sultan Achmet, rising up in the rear. Then I looked up and down the Bosphorus as far as I could see, and up the Golden Horn, and over to Scutari, the cypress crowned city, and saw the busy steamers, and the countless little caiques go by, and then my eyes grew weary with looking abroad, and I turned my at- 86 LETTERS. tention to the motley groups on the decks. Near me was a fat Turk, making his bed comfortable for the night, (for second class passengers are admitted to the quarter deck in these countries,) and in immediate prox- imity to him was a devout Mussulman, going through his stated forms of prayer. On one side, was a party of Greek and Italian gentlemen bidding adieu to each other, with a multitude of embraces and loud smacking kisses, and on the other, was a number of veiled Turk- ish women, in great grief at parting from some of their companions, while a pretty little child in the company amused me with her fruitless attempts to squeeze a few tears from her eyes. A beautiful Turkish girl, followed by an'old nurse, and two or three male servants, threw the whole deck in a bustle, by her numerous attendants arranging cushions, chairs and various etceteras for the comfort of the youthful beauty, one handing her a glass of water, one a smelling bottle, and a third a gold- en lemon, which she occasionally held to her nose, in her slender fingers, delicately tipped with henna. She politely offered me her smelling bottle, which I found filled with a delicious perfume, and motioned for me to put some on my handkerchief. I had not looked at her long, for as she took the liberty of staring at me, I had no hesitation in gazing at her, before I was satisfied that young as she was, her sun would soon be set. Be- neath the pure folds of her yashrnack, I saw the hectic flush grow deeper and deeper, while the quick heaving of the purple cloak in which she was closely wrapped, showed with what difficulty she breathed, and as if these symptoms were not sufficient to betray her doom, a hollow cough often shook convulsively her slender figure. So many persons on board seemed to show her LETTERS. 87 attentions, that I was curious to know who she was, and I soon found out she belonged to the harem of Redschid Pacha, who was sending her to " Scio's rocky isle," for her health. The clatter of tongues was as confusing to the ear, as the medley of strange figures to the eye. At one moment I caught a familiar sentence in French or Italian, the next I heard nought but German or Greek, which in their turn, were quickly displaced by Turkish or mayhap English. Hour after hour passed, and there seemed no prospect of departing. The lengthened shadows fell, and still " St. Sophia's gleaming dome" was before us. In answer to inquiries concerning the delay, we were told the steamer was waiting for de- spatches. I grew impatient, not that I thought the de- spatches would prove of any importance to me, but having eaten nothing since eight o'clock, my appetite was becoming more and more ravenous, till I had seri- ous thoughts of snatching at a cucumber and piece of bread I saw beside the fat Turk in front of me. A sleep too of less than five hours the night before, owing to the persevering songs of my Arab " roarer," added to the fatigue and heat of the day, did not contribute much to the buoyancy of my frame, and it would not have taken many drops more, to have made my cup run over with a discomforting draught. But fortunately at that critical moment, an officer appeared with a bundle of papers, elaborately dotted with red seals, the mate and helmsman took their station at the wheel, the word was given to " make ready," and in the same breath dinner was announced. While dinner was progressing however, so was not the boat, for after turning round, she once more stopped beneath the shadows of the walls 88 LETTERS. and trees of Seraglio Point, and just as we came up from dinner, the mighty mass was again put in motion, and towers, and walls, and domes, and minarets began to fade away in the evening light. The seven hilled city was soon far in the rear, and Constantinople, " the magnificent" disappeared, I fear, forever from our gaze. Four nights and three days, we spent in that steam- er, and although we had a good state-room, and a table, amply spread, though wanting in many of the delicacies, which had been our portion while in the French steam- ers, I rarely passed more uncomfortable nights and days. The weather was intensely hot, and though at times there was a good breeze on deck, the cabin was intolerable, and sleep almost entirely out of the ques- tion. I would gladly have slept on dedL, but it was not deemed prudent to brave the night air, and I bowed to the stern demands of prudence, and yielded my comfort, and what is sometimes as dear to me, my will. "We passed so many interesting spots during the day, that I could always manage to get along quite comfort- ably, but the nights were insupportable. Tormented by fleas, with the additional help of a few bed-bugs, ex- hausted with the heat, consumed by a raging thirst, that could not be quenched by the lukewarm water on board, I knew no peace or rest, and was glad when I could go on deck and snuff the fresh air. When I got up on Tuesday morning, we were at Gallipoli, but no one was allowed to land on account of cholera there. Then, we entered the Dardanelles, or Hellespont, a narrow strait, which connects the Sea of Marmora with the Archipelago. The scenery along the shores of the Dardanelles cannot begin to compare in beauty to that of the Bosphorus ; the hills are bold LETTERS. 89 and grand in their outline, but they look rocky and bare, though I am told a month earlier, they were cov- ered with verdure, but around those hills many a stir- ring scene has taken place. The Scamander, in whose limpid waters Venus bathed before contending for the prize of beauty, Mount Ida, famous in classic lore, the plains of Troy, the place across the Hellespont, where the invader Xerxes threw his bridge, the spot where once stood the " torch-lit tower" of Abydos, the story of Leander, who nightly swam across the straits that separated him from his lady love, the islands that are set like gems at the entrance of the Dardanelles into the sea, these and many other objects of interest, kept our attention alive the whole day. As we entered the sea, Imbros was on our right, Tenedos on the left, and Lemnos rising up before us. These islands all look sere and brown now, though in many places I saw the hills terraced to their very sum- mits, where the vine had been planted. In fact Tene- dos has, for a long time, been celebrated for its wines. Later, we were skirting Mitylene, one of the largest islands in the Archipelago, which carries on an ex- tensive commerce with the neighboring ports. Its prin- cipal charm to me, was its being the birth-place of Sappho, " burning Sappho," as Byron calls her, and from its having been visited by St. Paul. As we glided in and out among these islands, rising abruptly from the blue sea, I repeated more than a hun- dred times, " The Isles of Greece, the Isles of Greece ! Where burning Sappho loved and sung, Where grew the arts of war and peace, Where Delos rose and Phcebus sprung ! Eternal summer gilds them yet, But all, except their sun, is set." 90 LETTERS. Every island has its tale of love and poesy and song, and each, alas ! has its own bloody record of Turkish ravage and Mohammedan fanaticism. Late that night we anchored in the Gulf of Smyr- na, directly before the town, and as I came on deck the next morning, I started at the change eight short weeks had made, for the hills we had left green and bright, were now parched and brown, and when I went down to breakfast I had still more convincing proofs that the season had advanced with rapid strides, for on the table, were large clusters of rich, purple grapes ! Grateful sight to parched lips and feverish frames ! We went on shore, and walked in the bazaars, looking tame and dull after those of Constantinople, and more especially so that day, as all those kept by the Greeks were closed on account of some festival. And this re- minds me that the day before, being that observed by the Greeks in honor of St. Peter, though his festival was kept by the rest of the Christian church twelve days before, two Greek gentlemen on board both having the name of Peter, treated all at table, at breakfast and dinner with champagne, and I dare say some on board would gladly have had St. Peter's day come again, if they could have thus observed it. Passing through the ladies' cabin ' that evening, I found the young Turkish girl asleep on a sofa, and as she was without her yashmack, I stopped to look at her unveiled charms. Fair and delicate as a lily, her jetty eyebrows and long silken lashes, were in charming con- trast to the delicate skin, and the henna-tipped nails set off the white fingers, to good advantage. A short skirt and loose trousers of thin muslin, enveloped, as in a cloud, her slender figure, and her long black hair was LETTERS. 91 negligently gathered under an embroidered handker- chief. How lovely she was ! Perhaps she had been the light and joy of the harem, the favored one of the master, the despised by the mistress because she enjoy- ed the favor of her lord, but now she is for a while shut out from the smiles of the one, and the frowns of the other. All day we were anchored off Smyrna, but towards evening the anchor was up, and we were once more on our way. Down the gulf of Smyrna we went, cleaving the transparent waters, the mountains rising around us, the white houses of Smyrna behind, the deep blue sea before. But here a new occurence arose, that for a time ef- fectually interfered with our quiet contemplation of the scene around us. A company of Austrian officers, from a ship in the harbor, had come on board, accom- panied by a number of their companions. Much wine was drunk, and perhaps something stronger, and a great deal of kissing followed, and then a part went back to the ship, while the remainder, it seemed, was going to Trieste. The first lieutenant was ingloriously drunk, and staggered about our deck, singing snatches of songs, and then stopping to cheer the ship as we passed her. At last, to the great annoyance of the ladies, he climbed up into one of the boats, and commenced a succession of cheers, and this he repeated several times, each time at the imminent risk of pitching overboard. Our Cap- tain seeing the annoyance of the ladies, tried to prevail upon him to desist, but he swore at the Captain, and again staggered up into the boat. Soon after, he went down into the cabin, in a violent rage, and on some one approaching him, he drew his sword, and thrusting 92 LETTERS. right and left, made sad havoc among the dishes on the table, frightening a Greek lady into hysterics, and clear- ing the cabin of those who had ventured to oppose him. All at once, as though he feared he might do violence, he went up to J who was standing near, and giving him his sword, begged him to keep it for the sake of his honor, but just then, some one appearing at the door, against whom he had some fancied repugnance, he flew at his supposed enemy, threatening to kill him, wrest- ling for his sword with J who refused to give it up. Some of his brother officers stood by, but they were afraid to intermeddle, as he was of a higher grade than they were, and I don't know what would have been the end of the conflict, if the engineer of the boat had not gone to J's assistance. The sword was locked up in our state-room, and the officer dragged off to bed, and in a few hours he came upon the deck, and walked about as though nothing had happened. The Captain takes no notice of him, but he vows he will report the case to the proper authorities, and the lieutenant may have to pay dear for his glass too much, at bidding adieu to his ship-mates. That night I was awakened by the stopping of the boat, and the sound of voices along side. I peeped out of the port-hole, and saw " Scio's rocky isle" looming up before us. The dash of oars followed, and a boat pulled off from the steamer, bearing the Turkish girl and her attendants to the shore. May the soft breezes of the sea-girt isle, bring health and strength to that lovely, drooping flower ! Still among " the isles of Greece," for on going on deck yesterday morning, a cluster of them was around us, Tenos on the right, Mycenos and Delos on the left, LETTERS. 93 and Syra, rising up from the sea, far ahead. The town of St. Nicholas in the island of Tenos, presented a pic- turesque appearance from the sea. The houses are all of white stone, and are scattered over the hills, clusters of them peeping out from green trees, while to the right and left of the town, the hills are terraced off for the culture of the vine. These hills must present a beauti- ful appearance in the early summer, when vegetation is at its height, but now the most of them look brown and bare. Delos is a small island, but celebrated in classic lore, as the birth-place of Apollo, and the seat of an oracle, second only in sanctity to that of Delphi, but now its ancient glories have passed away, and but few remains are left of its former magnificence. About ten o'clock we arrived in the harbor of Syra, and there we lay twelve hours, not that there was any thing for us to do, but because it is the quarantine ground for the Levant, and never did I experience such heat as we felt that day. The scorching sun of Nubia, the arid plains and hills of the Desert, were cool com- pared to the close, sultry air in the bay of Syra. The live-long day, not a breeze ruffled the blue waters, not a breath fanned our hot faces. Once we were call- ed to pass before the Doctor of the port, and as we had to go to the other end of the steamer, turn round and come back, that he might judge of the state of health of all on board, I really thought I should get a sun-stroke in that slow march around the ship, but I held up my head very bravely, and walked as firmly, as though I feared nothing, because I was afraid if I look- ed at all drooping, he might pounce upon me as a pa- 94 LETTERS. tient, which would have been more formidable to me than the heat. The harbor of Syra is almost shut in by hills, and at the entrance, is a rocky island, on which stands a tall light-house. In front of us, rose the town, the white houses glaring down upon us in the fierce sun. A conical hill, looking like an immense -sugar-loaf, rises up in the very centre of the town, covered all up its sides with white houses, and terminating at the very summit in a -palace-like looking edifice. On either side of this hill, the town extends like two huge wings, and amid all the mass of white houses, I could scarcely see a tree, or anything to break the glare of light. At lit- tle distances from the town, however, I saw villas peep- ing out from verdant groves, and then the white houses looked pretty, contrasted with the green around them. On one side of the town is a large Lazaretto, for those who are obliged to perform quarantine on shore, and hot as it was on board, I was sure it was far more com- fortable, than being on that rocky hill, totally devoid as it seemed of all vegetation. A great deal of shipping was in the harbor, for independent of all vessels being obliged to stop here twelve hours for quarantine, Syra is a place of great commercial importance, and ships from all nations trade here. It is celebrated for its schools too, there being more than two thousand scholars in the different schools. Towards evening, a delicious breeze sprung up, and it came to our exhausted frames like a gale from Para- dise. Faint with the heat of the day, I spread my shawl upon the deck, and taking a rock-like cushion for my pillow, I gave myself up to meditation. Like the sun, every evening I flee to the west, and as twilight comes LETTERS. 95 on, I am duly in my far-distant home, seeing loved faces, and listening to familiar voices. But that night, shall I confess it ! I was not thinking so much of the dear ones at home, as of one of the comforts and luxu- ries of that home, and as plainly as I now see the paper before me, did I see a large wagon with " ICE," on it in great letters, stop before our door and leave its cold, white burden. I reached out my hand to take a piece, and carry it, to my fervent lips, and then I found it was all a delusion ! I was no longer at home, but in the far-off East, the white houses of Syra gleaming in the misty light, and a few bright stars looking down from the clear sky. How rough it was last night ! The steamer rose with one wave, only to plunge down with another ; she rolled to the right, only to return back with renewed violence to the left, and then withal, the air was so hot and suf- focating, that rest and comfort were not to be thought of, excepting as things we sometimes " read about." At last the morning dawned, and with it came a lull of the sea, and soon we entered the harbor of Piraeus, the port of Athens. In a few minutes, -we were ready to come on shore, but we were not allowed to land so easily, for an abundance of formalities had to be en- countered, before we could leave the ship, bills of health signed, and I don't know what else, but at length all was in readiness, our baggage was stowed away in a small boat, which we entered, and in a few minutes our feet pressed the soil of Greece ! A small sum of money, placed in the hands of the custom house officers, prevented the delay of having the luggage examined, and when trunk and box, saddle and saddle-bag, carpet-bag and portmanteau were duly 96 LETTEES. arranged, we jumped into a carriage, a luxury almost unknown to us for months, and were soon rolling to- wards Athens. The road was good, bordered in many places by vineyards, and groves of fig and olive trees, and after a ride of about five miles, we entered the streets of Athens, and in a few minutes were at the Hotel des Etrangeres, which had been previously recommended to us. It is situated on the square, at the head of which stands the Palace, a handsome building of white stone, ornamented with porticoes, window frames and cornices of Pentelican marble. In front, it is separated from the street, by a pretty garden surrounded by a hedge of oleander and cactus. Near by the garden, is a large and handsome house, occupied by the French ambassador, while on the right is our hotel, with two or three houses. The other end of the square is adorned with fine houses, all of stone, stuccoed, and painted white or yellow, with steps and window frames of white marble. Each house has little balconies in the second and third stories, and thus far I find modern Athens a much better looking town than I had any idea of seeing. But I must leave a further description of it to future acquaintance. LETTERS. 97 LETTER LVI. Situation of Athens. Stadium. Fountain of Callirrhoe. Thyme. Tem- ple of Jupiter Olympus. Ruins of Greece. Arch of Hadrian. Monu- ment of Lysicrates. Acropolis. Parthenon. Temple of Victory without wings. The Erectheum. View from the Acropolis. Tomb of Miller. Garden of Plato. Sunset. ATHENS, July 15th. MY DEAR FRIENDS : I begin my description of Athens by giving you a short sketch of its locality, that you may better under- stand my account of it. It is situated about five miles from the sea, in the central plain of Attica, which is bounded on the north-west by Mount Parnes, on the north-east by Mount Pentelicus, on the south-east by Mount Hymettus, and on the west by Mount ^Egaleos ; on the south it opens on the Gulf of Salamis. The most prominent eminence in the whole plain is a coni- cal hill, rocky at the top, and surmounted by a church, and this is Mount Lycabettus. From its summit, the view is said to be delightful, but I have not yet been tempted to judge for myself. The weather is so very hot here, we are warned against being out in the heat of the day, and thus far, we have only been out early in the morning, and after dinner, which is served at five o'clock. For the comfort of travellers wishing to come to Athens in the Summer, however, I must say the heat is not so intense, as from the accounts I heard I expected to find it, and generally there has been a delicious breeze, even while the sun has been very hot. But to return to the boundaries of Athens. South- west of Lycabettus, are four hills, all included within 7 98 LETTERS. the ancient city ; the first is the Acropolis, a craggy rock rising several hundred feet above the plain, its sum- mit crowned with the world-famed Parthenon. Beyond the Acropolis, is a smaller rocky hill, called the Areopa- gus, known also to Scripture readers as Mars Hill, identified, as it is, with the stirring address of St. Paul to the " men of Athens." Still farther on, are the hills known by the names of the Pnyx and the Museum, and of all of these I shall probably have a little to say here- after. On the southeast of the city runs the Ilissus, and on the west the Cephissus, but both of these rivers are nearly dry at this season of the year. Now that I have had patience to write this long geographical descrip- tion, and you to read it, I will pass to other things. Our first business, after being comfortably settled in our rooms, (which open on the square, and are airy and clean,) was to engage a guide, and then commence the arduous duty of sight-seeing. A fat Greek, Stratis by name, armed with a book full of credentials from English and American travellers, was selected to be our guide, to the great disappointment of the one connected with this hotel, who speaks only French and Italian ; but in this hot weather, it is too much of an effort to listen to long descriptions in a foreign tongue, so we preferred one who could speak English. By the time these arrangements were duly made, it was too late to do more than to take a little stroll through the streets, which we found quite wide and clean, and adorned with comfortable houses. We ended the day by calling on the families of the American mis- sionaries, well known to all our fellow-countrymen for their kind and hospitable attentions. This morning, we rose before five o'clock, and after LETTERS. 99 drinking a cup of tea, and munching a piece of bread, (for it is said to be unhealthy to go out without previ- ously eating and drinking something,) we started to see the lions of Athens. Willis says " admiration is the most exhausting thing in the world," and I may add, it is particularly so, when a full dose is taken on an almost empty stomach ; and by the time we had been out four hours, I, for one, was glad to come home and get some breakfast. But now let me recall, in a consecutive manner, the places of interest we have visited to-day. Leaving the Palace on the left, we walked over some brown hills, till we came to the spot where once stood the Stadium of Athens. It covered a semicircular hill rising from the Ilissus, and formerly had rows of seats of white marble, which were taken away by the barbaric Turks. Here the races took place, and the striver for the victory, starting from the lower extremity, ran one course in a straight line, and turning round at the farther end, ran back to the goal. The Stadium now presents the ap- pearance of a long and grass-grown hollow, and a trav- eller might pass it many times, without imagining that here occurred some of the most stirring scenes of Athens. Crossing the bed of the Ilissus, almost dried up, on the banks of which some nymphs, far from classical looking, were washing clothes, we came to a cave run- ning under a hill. Through this cave we walked, and I could soon have wished it a great way off, for in it we made intimate acquaintance with a family of fleas, which liked our company so well that they were unwil- ling to leave us, and after pestering us almost to intol- erance the remainder of our walk, we waged such 100 L E T T E E S . mortal warfare with them, on our return home, that in a little while forty lay drowning in a bowl of water ! A little farther on, we came to the fountain of Cal- lirrhoe, which, gushing from a rock, forms a little basin in a shady recess in the hill. From this fountain, the water was formerly conveyed to Athens by nine large pipes of stone, some of which remain to this day. The hills and the plains over which we walked were covered with thyme, and the fragrance of it loaded the air with rich perfume. All up the sides of the Hymet- tus, these beds of thyme " the long, long summer gild," and from them the bees gather the sweets, which give the honey of Athens such a peculiarly delicious flavor. Very soon after leaving our hotel, we came in sight of a ruined temple, and I eagerly asked what it was. " The temple of Jupiter Olympus," answered Strattis ; and so picturesque looked its tall columns, standing out against the sky, that I would gladly have gone immedi- ately to examine them more thoroughly, but the guide had his usual routine, and he did not like to depart from it, but now, as we turned from the fountain of Callirrhoe, and recrossed the Ilissus, the temple stood out in its beauty before us, and I was glad to see our steps now directed towards it. Of the one hundred and twenty-four columns that once adorned the various parts of this temple, but fifteen are now standing, and these are composed of blocks of white marble, fluted, and having capitals richly carved. They are about sixty feet in height and twenty-five in circumference. Part of the frieze over some of the columns is yet standing, and here, seventy feet in the air, was once the cell of a monk. How he got up there, I know not, but every morning he lowered a little basket LETTERS. 101 from his lofty dwelling, and some pious friends were always ready to load it with the necessaries, and even with some of the comforts of life. "We are told that travellers, coming here from the West, are delighted with these and other ruins of Greece, but those coming from the East are invariably disappointed. Thus far, the ruins we have seen here are certainly wanting in the grandeur and majesty and far-reaching antiquity that throw such a halo over the mighty ruins of Egypt, and nought that the whole world beside can present, can compare with -them in these points ; but for beauty of sculpture and design, for harmony in pro- portion and detail, for exquisite finish in all its parts, the ruins of Greece must ever stand out unrivalled. So far back do the temples and monuments of Egypt carry us, that, to the unlearned, they are lost in the obscurity of ages, but the ruins of Greece are of so modern a date, comparatively speaking, that they are associated with our every day studies and reading. The inspira- tion of the poet and the orator, the theme of the histo- rian and student, the subject of schoolboy speeches at examinations and exhibitions, and of college graduates at Commencement, Greece, with her heroes of olden time, her stirring scenes, her hard fought battles and glorious victories, seems a part of our own life, our own history, and he who can walk among her ruins, her re- mains of former greatness and power, he who can press the soil once trodden by Pericles, and Themistocles, and Demosthenes, and Plato, and Socrates, and a host of other worthies, -and not be moved, not feel high and noble thoughts within him, must be made of unenviable materials. The very name of Greece brings a charm, and the sight of her ancient monuments, many of them 102 LETTERS. overthrown and lying in the dust, must fill every eye and touch every heart, even though the eye be sated with seeing the wonders of the world beside, and the heart be wearied with emotions oft excited by the thril- ling records of the past. The temple of Jupiter Olympus, from which I have strayed, occupied seven hundred years in its construc- tion, from the time of Pisistratus to that of the Emperor Hadrian, and it has suffered more from the hand of the destroyer than almost any other temple in Greece, most of its marbles having been removed, at different times, for building purposes. After the Christian era, many of the temples were converted into churches, and this doubtless contributed much to their preservation, but the temple of Jupiter Olympus was too immense for such an use, and, therefore, block after block was borne away. Then came the Turks, foes alike to beauty and to Christianity, and pagan temple and Christian church were equally despoiled. One whole cohimn of the Olympeum was thrown down, and its marbles carried away for one of their mosques, and night after night, it was said the wind moaned and sighed among the other columns, as though they were lamenting the loss of their sister ! Is it not a pretty idea, and worthy of the poetical country of the Greeks ? The pavement of this temple is now used as a thresh- ing floor, and here the country people bring their grain, and have it trod out by horses. At that early hour in the morning, it presented an animating sight, the men and the women and the children in their pic- turesque costumes, the bundles of sheaves on the one hand, and the heaps of grain on the other, while stretch- LETTERS. 103 ing far up into the clear sky, stood the pillars of the once beautiful temple. Next we came to the Arch of Hadrian, built in the second century of the Christian era. The archway is twenty feet wide, and the whole height of the structure is about fifty-six feet. Above the centre of the arch is an inscription, purporting that it divides " Athens, the city of Theseus," from the " city of Hadrian." Passing through a corner of the city, where "the houses are small, and built of rough stone, or of clay, we reached the " Monument of Lysicrates," known for years to the modern world as the " Lantern of Demos- thenes." It was built nearly four hundred years before the Christian era, and is said to be the " earliest authen- tic instance of Corinthian architecture." It is a small building, circular in form, adorned with pillars, having richly sculptured capitals, and a frieze, in which are bas- reliefs, representing the destruction of the Tyrrhenian pirates by Bacchus. It is surmounted by an urn, and from being built in this form, or from some other trifling cause, it was a long time called the " Lantern of De- mosthenes." Some say the great orator was accus- tomed to shut himself up there for a month, to practice his orations, but as there is no access to the interior, and indeed in a building only eight feet in diameter, outside the columns, there could be no great interior, this must have been a difficult operation. Near the monument, are the remains of a Franciscan convent, where Lord Byron once resided, and where, it is said, his name is still seen on a marble slab on the wall, written by his own hand, but I had not reverence enough either for the man or the poet to go out of my way to see it. 104 LETTERS. And now we began to climb the rugged hill, or rather rock, of the Acropolis, and as in different parts of the ascent, Strattis stopped to point out various objects of interest, I was glad of an excuse to rest every few min- utes. This hill rises about three hundred and fifty feet above the level of the plain beneath it, and presents the appearance of a rocky platform exceedingly irregu- ular in shape, its greatest length being eleven hundred feet,* and its extreme breadth about four hundred and fifty. In some places it rises tip very abruptly from the plain, and its ascent on a hot morning, and before breakfast, too, is not so very easily accomplished. On the summit of the Acropolis are the finest ruins in Greece ; indeed, there is such a labyrinth of ruins, that I really don't know whether to describe them in a mass, or give each one a separate description. Either would take more time and paper than I have at com- mand at present, and I must therefore give a hasty ac- count of what particularly struck my attention. Since writing the above sentence, I have sat a half hour, my pen in hand, my eyes fixed on the opposite wall of my room, thinking where I should begin my account of the ruins of the Acropolis, and what I should say of them. If the hand could describe, as easily as the eye can take in, the prominent points of a scene, how easy would be the task of the traveller who keeps a journal, (and, in a parenthesis, I must once more say, " Blessed be they who carry about no such appendages.") I cannot tell what a load there is often upon my heart, when in the midst of intense observation of some inter- esting object, the thought suddenly comes to me, " And of all this I must give a description," and I walk round in a kind of mental maze, not seeing clearly my way LETTERS. 105 out of the labyrinth by which I am surrounded. Often I am tempted to throw down my pen in despair, and say " the work is too hard for me," but then I remem- ber the loved ones at home, who watch eagerly for my letters, and read them over and over again, not for their intrinsic merit, but because I wrote them, and this thought nerves me to renewed exertion, and I ply the pen with unwonted diligence, till I have said all I have to say. As I have said more than once, I think, (for I know no more than " the man in the moon" what I have written in my countless letters to you,) I cannot go into detail, statistical, historical or architectural, concerning the various wonders I see in these foreign lands, for I am not fitted for such a work, either by nature or edu- cation, and if I were, I doubt whether such details would be appreciated by all of you. I try always to keep in mind that these letters are addressed to an as- sembled household, composed of the old and the young, the learned and the unlearned, and I wish ever to write of such things, and in such a manner, as will interest all, and be beyond the comprehension of none. And now to my task. The largest temple on the Acropolis is the Parthenon, and the approach to it is inexpressibly grand and beautiful. A broad flight of steps, or rather a carriage way in the centre, with steps on either side, of white marble, leads up to a portico, about seventy feet broad, having six fluted pillars, twenty-nine feet in height, and fifteen feet in circumfer- ence. From this portico, two wings projected, adorned with columns, which are now more or less in a ruinous state. The walls and ceilings of this portion of the temple, the "Propylsea," were once adorned with 106 LETTERS. paintings, now, alas ! " among the things that have been." Scattered along the pavement now, are frag- ments of pillars, broken statues, and choice bits of sculpture, found among the ruins ; and here one sees the perfection to which the art was brought in the palmy days of Greece. And now we have reached the Parthenon, which Wordsworth says is the " finest edifice on the finest site in the world, hallowed by the noblest recollections that can stimulate the human heart." The Parthenon was built under the administration of Pericles, and was finished four hundred and thirty-eight years before the Christian era. The matchless sculptor, Phidias, was entrusted with the general superintendence of it, and his name alone ought to be a sufficient voucher for the merit of the work. It was built of Pentelic marble, except the tiles of the roof, which were Parian, and the whole cost of the building is estimated at three millions and a half dollars. It is nearly two hundred and thirty feet long, and about one hundred wide, and has a por- tico at each end of eight columns, and a colonnade on each side of seventeen. All these columns are fluted, of the Doric order, and are nearly thirty feet high by six and a quarter in diameter. Of all these pillars, but thirty- two are standing, and of the frieze, which was once adorned with rich sculptures, but little now re- mains. I have given you these few dry statistics, that you may be better able to form some idea of the far-famed Parthenon of Athens, but, like many other things, it must be seen to be appreciated. I should enjoy very much seeing it by moonlight, but at present that is im- LETTERS. 107 practicable, from the moon rising quite too late at night for me, or rather too early in the morning. Near by the Parthenon is the small temple of " Vic- tory without wings," built in honor of the victories gained by the Athenians, in the time of Miltiades and Cimon, over the Persians. It is only twenty-seven feet long by eighteen wide, but has some beautiful sculp- tures, representing battle scenes. For nearly two hun- dred years, this temple was lost to sight, but in 1835, on a Turkish battery being removed, some fragments of sculptured marbles were brought to light, and on fur- ther researches being made, the various parts of the temple were discovered, and under judicious and able superintendence, were collected and re-arranged, ac- cording to the original plan of the edifice. Next we visited the Erectheum, the most revered of all the ancient sanctuaries of Athens, connected too with the earliest religious legends of Attica, for here was once the oldest statue of Athens, the guardian of the city, which was made of olive wood, and which was said to have fallen down from Heaven. Here, too, were the sacred olive tree, the well of salt, and the tomb of Cecrops, and of the god Erectheus. Of the various parts of the temple, none pleased me so much, as one of the porticoes, the roof of which is supported by six columns called Caryatides, in the form of young maidens, in flowing drapery, their hands resting on their hips. This term, Caryatid, meaning a female figure supporting an entablature, is said to have been derived from Carya, a city in Arcadia, which took part with the Persians against the Greeks, and was consequently destroyed by their enraged countrymen, the men slain, and the wo- men carried away captives. Male figures representing 108 LETTERS. Persians, were sometimes used for columns, when his- torical scenes were to be portrayed, and consequently Grecian sculptors, used for alike purpose female figures, thereby commemorating the punishment of the women of Carya, or the Caryatides. Some of these columns are mutilated ; one has been furnished with a new head and bust, and one is of plaster, sent out from England to replace that carried off by Lord Elgin, as great a robber of Grecian marbles, as the barbaric Turks, but even in this mongrel form, they present a beautiful appearance, in their picturesque attitude, with their drapery floating gracefully around them. In our walks among these ruins, we were constantly meeting exquisite bits of sculpture, fragments of statues and bas-reliefs, which told us how very, very beautiful these temples must have been in their days of glory. Here too, are collected in a rude kind of Museum, vases and urns, and lamps found among the ruins, and marble heads, and hands and feet, and a thousand like objects of interest. Absorbed as I was in gazing upon the records of the past, collected on the Acropolis, I paused a great many times to look on the magnificent scene, stretched below and around me. One of the pe- culiar charms of the whole, is the soft haze like a thin blue mist that invests the mountains as with a halo, giving them ever a purple, amethystine hue, which is perfectly lovely, particularly when blended with the 'dear sky above. Then, too, the hills slope down so gracefully into the valleys, and the plains swell up so beautifully towards the mountains, and the blue mist enshrouds all, softening down every asperity, and con- cealing every rugged spot, that it seems to me the LETTERS. 109 scenery of Greece thus far, must be totally unlike any thing found elsewhere. If we turn to the sea, behold the islands clothed in the same ethereal garb, tinged with the same delicate hues, rising abruptly, yet with exquisite grace from the blue waters spread around, and when you add to these physical beauties, that every island and every mountain peak, and every hidden vale, have their le- gends of heroism and love, you can conceive the fas- cination Greece must ever have for the lovers of the beautiful. Come stand with me on this elevated point, and look abroad over as fair a scene, as was ever presented to the eye of man. Far down the blue gulf, see that island fold- ed in its garment of blue mist ; that is JEgina, and yonder is " sea-born Salamis," and under that " rocky brow" Xerxes once sat, and " counted at break of day" the " ships by thousands" which "lay below" and the " men in nations," and still farther on, are the moun- tains of Eleusis, and range upon range of blue hills. And what an air of repose dwells upon all ; what a de- licious calm reigns over the whole scene ! Not a bird darkens the clear air, not a sail ruffles the blue waters. Is it not lovely ? Look below. Do you see that rugged rock rising up at your feet ? There St. Paul once stood, and preached his memorable sermon to the " men of Athens." Be- yond, on that rocky platform Themistocles and Demos- thenes once swayed the masses assembled around them, and in that cavern in yonder hill, was the prison of So- crates, that philosopher, whose life and death and doc- trines, approached nearer, than any other heathen sage, those of the blessed Jesus. 110 LETTERS. Turn once more ; see that green belt that engirdles the plain ; it is the grove of Academus, where Plato and Aristotle and Zeno and Epicurus and Socrates (I do not arrange these names in chronological order, but write them down, just as they come into my mind,) and a host besides, discoursed of high and abstruse subjects with the Athenians gathered around them. If you are not tired of whirling round on this airy height, take one more tour and look down. At your feet rests Athens, not the " august Athena" of old, but the modern town, its wilderness of houses broken here and there by a venerable church, true~specimen of old Byzantine architecture. The garden that surrounds the Palace, is almost the only green spot for the eye to rest upon, and back of that, rises " flowery Hymettus," which still " yields his honied wealth," and through the plain beneath " Ilissus rolls his whispering stream" along, and the fair pillars of Jupiter Olympus rise up in their beauty. Where'er the eye turns, " tis haunt- ed, holy ground," " Till the sense aches with gazing to behold The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon ; Each hill and glade, each deepening glen and world." Perhaps you have had enough of sight-seeing by this time, so if you like, you can descend from your lofty perch, and come home with me to breakfast, for which my long walk had given me a famous appetite. As we were warned not to be out too much during the heat of the day, we spent the remaining hours very quietly, reading, writing and sleeping, and after dinner, we drove out. What a luxury, after donkey, camel, and horse riding, to lean back in an open carriage, and enjoy the comforts of a quiet drive ! LETTERS. Ill A short time after leaving the city, we came to a hill on our right, a part of the site of the ancient Academy of Athens. Here a column of white marble marks the spot where the distinguished antiquary and scholar, Miller, is buried. Farther on, we came to a lovely gar- den, said to be the spot where Plato once lived. We left our carriage, and walked for some time amid clusters of ripening grapes, and under the shade of spreading sycamores and " silvery olives in all their poetic glory." But the beauties of the present, could not wean our minds from the associations of the past, and as we slowly wandered back and forth, it seemed we could almost hear the teachings of him, " on whose infant lips, the bees shed honey as he slept." Once more in the carriage, we drove on through vine- yards and groves of fig and olive trees, along the bank of the Cephissus, now almost dried away, but the mur- mur of the little rivulet as it rolled by was in gentle harmony with the soft rustle of the leaves. We returned home by the old " sacred way" that led from Athens to Eleusis, and the sun went down, " Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright, But one unclouded blaze of living light," and the blue mountains looked more and more ethereal, till their " tenderest tints" owned " the hues of Heav- en." Years ago, Milton described Athens in " words that burn," and one sentence in that description con- stantly recurred to me that evening. It was, " pure the air," and certainly purer air was never breathed by mortals, than the air of Greece. It really makes one in love with life. And then came " solemn -night, and spread her pall wide o'er the slumbering shore and sea," and the lustrous stars shone out, and the soft breeze 112 LETTERS. blew, and our hearts beat in unison with the time and place ; till we were suddenly recalled to the notice of the present by finding ourselves in the streets of Athens, not left in their natural obscurity, as in other towns in the East, but actually lit by street lamps, a convenience we have not seen since leaving England, nine months ago. There, I have certainly written enough for one letter, so now good night. LETTEE LYII. ^English Church King and Queen of Greece. Tower of the Winds. Agora. Mars Hill. Pnyx. Prison of Socrates. Sliding Stone. Tem- ple of Theseus. Garden of the Palace. ATHENS, July 17th. MY DEAR P. : I resume my record of sight-seeing in Athens. Yes- terday we attended the English Chapel all day, where the Rev. Mr. Hill, though an American, is the Chaplain, and when I heard J's familiar voice in the pulpit, I closed my eyes on Athens, and was once more in my own loved church at home. As we were coming from prayers in the evening, we saw a party on horseback dashing down the street, and although there was but little pomp and parade to mark their station, we immediately concluded it was the King and Queen of Greece. The King and Queen rode in advance, followed by the maids of honor, two or three aids and the servants in livery. The Queen had on a purple skirt, with a white jacket, a straw hat trimmed with white, and has a so-so face, with bright eyes and LETTERS. 113 florid complexion. She is excessively fond of riding, and rides splendidly, managing her spirited horse with ease and grace. The King rode on her right, and wore the Greek costume, which consists of a " fustanella," a short full skirt, reaching to the knees. This skirt is of white linen or cotton, and is made all of gores, a full skirt often having two hundred of these gores, giving a peculiarly lofty, majestic gait to the wearer, as the folds sway back and forth as he walks. Red gaiters orna- mented with gold embroidery, and reaching to the knee and fitting the leg with exquisite nicety, a cunning lit- tle red jacket with loose flowing sleeves, covered with embroidery, a red scarf tied around the waist, a cap of red velvet, adorned in front with magnificent diamonds, completed the costume of King Otho. From his face, I should never have thought him a German, but should have taken him for a Greek. He is not forty yet, but his face looks worn and haggard. His eyes are splen- did, and his smile a blending of majesty and grace. I did not take all these observations at one glance, but this evening we stood at the gate of the Palace, and saw them mount and come leisurely towards us. About twenty or thirty persons were there assembled, and every head was uncovered, as their Majesties appeared, but there was no cheering, or sign of enthusiasm. The King and Queen looked around on the people, and ac- knowledged their silent greeting by a gentle bend of the head, and as we stood at a little distance from the group, and made our own salutations, we received a bow and a smile from each. Shakespeare once said, " uneasy lies the head that wears the crown," and I imagine few crowned heads lie more uneasily, than those of King Otho and Queen Amelia. 8 114 LETTERS. This morning, we were up a little after four, and out before five, and I really thought it required the courage of a martyr, to brave such early hours. The morning was lovely. A golden light was in the sky, and each mountain top stood out distinctly in its gauze-like haze. Through the streets of the city we wended our way, and unseasonably as the hour was, many of the inhabitants were astir, for in these Eastern climes, the generality of the people rise early, rest during the heat of the day, and come forth with renewed vigor towards evening. Passing by two or three venerable churches built in true Byzantine style, a magnificent portico, half in ruins, one or two Mosques, now used for barracks, and walking through narrow streets, where in the time of the Turks were the bazaars, we came to the " Tower of the Winds," or the water-clock of Athens. It is octagonal in shape, each side facing one of the eight winds, into which the Athenian compass was divided, and having bas-reliefs representing the qualities and ideal form of that wind. Thus on the north side, is the figure of Boreas, wrapped in a thick mantle, and stout buskins, while the side next this, towards the east, presents an abundance of olives, that wind being favorable to their production and growth. The side facing the east, ex- hibits a rich profusion of flowers and fruits, and the very next compartment shows us Eurus with scowling face, threatening a hurricane. Then comes the south wind, ready to deluge the ground with showers, from a large urn which he holds in his naked arms, and next a ship is seen, apparently in rapid progress, that wind bringing success to the navigator. Floating gently on, appears Zephyrus, showering flowers beneath him, while LETTERS. 115 his next neighbor carries a vessel of charcoal in his hands, to dispel the cold, he, himself, has produced. Each face has a sun-dial too, and when it was noon, the water which was brought from a fountain near the cave of Apollo and Pan, in the hill below the Parthenon, rose to the top of the tower, and ran down over the side. And now having passed under an arch or gateway, we are in the Agora, where once assembled the people of Athens to discuss the news and politics of the day. Here patriots and demagogues sowed the seeds of glory and of sedition, and here arose the first whispers against "the just" Aristides and the immortal Socrates. But a far more interesting spot to us than this even, was Mars' Hill, where once stood the intrepid " Apostle of the Gentiles." "We ascended to the top, by a flight of steps cut in the solid rock, and after gazing around us a few minutes, sat down and read the account of St. Paul's memorable visit to Athens. How vividly came the whole scene before us ! Here, where the great and solemn council of the Areopagus sat, here where the Athenian mind, if ever, could be awed by the solemn associations of the spot, famous as it was for the trials which had there taken place of causes connected with crime and religion, from the legendary trial of Mars, (hence the name of Mars' Hill,) down to those of later times ; here eighteen hundred years ago stood St. Paul, and preached to the Athenians, who were ever ready to tell, or to hear some new thing, a " doctrine" which might emphatically be called "new." Hark to the voice of the Apostle ! " Ye men of Athens," he cries to the multi- tude who came thronging up from the Agora to " know what these things " meant, " I perceive that in all things 116 LETTERS. 70 are too superstitious," or " peculiarly observant of unseen influences." All around him were splendid structures built by " art and man's device," but not to these, was worship to be paid. On the rocky ledges of the Acropolis, which towered above him, stood the elegant Parthenon of Minerva, and in the plain below, the magnificent temple of Theseus, while in the Agora, were sundry monuments, all objects of" devotion" to the gay and frivolous Athenian. And as though these were not proof enough of their seeking after the abstract and the invisible, an " altar" had been erected " to the Un- known God." And now hear him proclaim, " whom therefore ye ignorantly worship, Him declare I unto you. God that made the world, and all things therein, seeing that He is Lord of Heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made with hands," and here, perhaps, he pointed his finger to the temples rising in their beauty and grandeur above him, or to those studding the rich valley beneath him. Then he proceeds to tell them fur- ther of the " Unknown God," ending with that allu- sion to the resurrection of the dead, and the day of judgment, on hearing which " some mocked, and others said, we will hear thee again of this matter." The sermon was finished, and he " departed from among them," but his preaching had some effect, for " certain men clave unto him and believed ; among which was Dionysius the Areopagite," and at a little distance from Mars' Hill, are the ruins of a small church named in honor of that Athenian disciple. Next, we ascended the hill, or artificial platform, call- ed the Pnyx, which was the place of Parliament, or as- sembly of the Athenian people. The area of this plat- form was capable of containing from seven to eight LETTERS. 117 thousand persons, and sloped gradually down towards the centre, where was the pulpit or "bema" of the orator. It was not provided with seats, hence the as- sembled citizens either stood, or sat on the bare rock. It had no awning to protect the masses from the heat of the sun, but the assembly was generally held at day break. Here have stood the far-famed legislators and orators of Greece, Solon, Pericles, Themistocles, Aristides and Demosthenes, and along the shore of the bay beyond, Demosthenes walked, strengthening his voice by striving to speak above the murmur of the waves. Ah me ! as I thought of all these things, I seemed to go back many, many years, and to be once more a school girl, studying the History of Greece. Near the Pnyx are two hills, one called " the Hill of the Nymphs," which is surmounted by an observatory, and the other " the Museum Hill," on the summit of which, is the monument of Philopappus, who lived in Athens in the first century of the Christian era. In the side of this hill, is a little cavern or grotto, consisting of three chambers, and this is called " the prison of Socrates." One of the chambers was used for a chapel, the middle one for the bath, and the third is said to be the room where the greatest of all heathen philosophers was imprisoned. For the sake of his health, I should hope these rooms had a better odor in former days than now, for they are any thing but fragrant at present. Here he drank the bitter cup of poison, and then laid down to die, and when life had departed, he was borne to another grotto, farther on in the hill side, and de- posited in a sarcophagus, hewn out of the solid rock. 118 LETTERS. Once more the school girl feeling came over me, as I dwelt upon these scenes. As we came down the hill, we saw a smooth, shining rock on our left, which is known by the name of the " sliding stone," and I must preface my remarks con- cerning it, by exclaiming, " Ye that have blushes, pre- pare to bring them out," for I am going to touch upon a delicate subject, which may cause some of you to turn away with rosy cheeks, and perhaps with eyes flash- ing with contempt for one who thus dares to set delica- cy, in the American sense of the word, at defiance. It is said that if she, who has been a wife long, without becoming a mother, will but slide down this stone, in less than a year, her fondest hopes will be realized, and she will give birth to a child ! The Greek wives must believe this legend, for the stone is worn to bright- ness and smoothness by having been often used. And now we approached near the temple of Theseus, which we had long been seeing at a distance. This temple is by many spoken of as " the most perfect ar- chitectural relic of all antiquity," but I think that an- tiquity should be specified as Grecian or European, be- cause one finds as " perfect architectural relics" in Egypt, which date back hundreds of years before the " antiquity" of Grecian temples. But be that as it may, this temple is a most beautiful " relic" of " antiquity." It is one hundred and four feet long, and forty-five wide, and has a portico running quite around it, the pillars of which are nineteen feet high, and ten in cir- cumference. The bas-reliefs represent the labors of Hercules and Theseus. This temple, though more than two thousand three hundred years old, is so admirably preserved, as at a little LETTERS. 119 distance to look quite perfect and like a modern edifice. In the interior, is the national museum of Athens, and here wg found a good many ancient statues and sculp- tured tablets to interest us. And when I compared the faultlessly chiselled faces, and exquisitely proportioned figures to the square, clumsy forms, delineated by Egyp- tian artists, I could not but acknowledge how far superior were the sculptors of Greece to those of Egypt. After four hours spent in rambling among these in- teresting localities, you may be quite sure I was ready to come home to my breakfast. Seeing kind American friends, journalizing, and sleeping, served to fill up the hours till dinner, and after that, we walked in the gar- den back of the Palace. Here, various kinds of trees, and flowers of every hue, and quiet, shaded walks, and arbors paved with rare old mosaics, and glimpses ot the lovely sky and the blue hills, and ruined temples at a distance, charmed us greatly, and when the sun went down, and the sky was suffused with a soft rose tint, and Hymettus assumed a rich violet hue, I thought no where on earth could there be a lovelier scene. And now good bye, for if you are not tired, I am. 120 LETTERS. LETTER LVIII. Prisoners. Cholera at tho Piraeus. Trip to Pentelicus. Grand view from the Summit. Marathon. Eubcea. Isles. Mountains. Sacred Way. Daphne. Bay of Eleusis. Eleusis. Eemains of Temple of Ceres. Megara. Lovely Sunsets. Queen Amelia. King Otho. State of Greece. Eev. Mr. Hill. Episcopal Mission. Phalenun. Sickness. ATHENS, July 22d. Mr DEAR P. : At length we are prisoners ! Do not be alarmed, for no hostile powers have taken possession of us, but the cholera, or what is thought to be the cholera, having broken out at the Piraeus, five miles distant, the steam- ers have refused to take any passengers from here. How long this state of things may last, we cannot tell, but we hope not long. You may readily imagine it is not pleasant for us to be thus hindered from prosecuting our journey, but we try to bear it as patiently and cheerfully as possible. Fretting is bad any where, but in hot climates it is especially to be avoided, and we therefore make up our minds to patiently and quietly wait till permission is given us to depart. If the weather were not so hot, and the mountains were not infested with bands of lawless plunderers, we might spend the time in making some excursions in Greece, but it is so hot we could not travel with impu- nity, except in the very early morning, and towards evening, and the prospect of being robbed, to say noth- ing of being murdered, is by no means a pleasant one, so we must remain in Athens, and while away the time as best we may. Then there is another difficulty. Our letters, containing, as we hope, remittances, are awaiting us at Vienna, and it will take a fortnight to write there LETTERS. 121 and receive an answer, and before that time is over, we hope to be once more on our way. Our funds are just sufficient to take us to Vienna, but if we have to stay here a fortnight, or perform quarantine at Trieste, we shall have nothing to supply the loud demand for cash ; however, we are relieved from that unpleasant predica- ment, by our banker here kindly consenting to advance us the needed sum, to be repaid when we arrive at Vienna, Rev. Mr. A. being our surety. But then our letters from home ! We are anxious to have them, and yet we refrain from sending for them, hoping ere they could arrive, to be on our way towards Vienna. As for the cholera, it brings us no alarm ; we have had it around us at home, and the same kind Providence who protected us there, can watch over us here, and we therefore have no fears whatever, and I earnestly hope you will all feel as free from anxiety for us we do for ourselves. Summer is rapidly hastening on, and we have yet much to see, before we once more brave the terrors of the Atlantic, and as I said before, it is unpleasant to be delayed in our journey, but that can't be helped ; and as, time and again, we go over the whole subject, dwell- ing at large upon its most aggravating points, we sum up the whole by saying, and trying to feel what we say, "'Tis all for the best." And now let me go back a few days. Once more we were called early from our beds, on Tuesday morning, for a long excursion was before us. We had talked about going to Marathon, but much as I wanted to see that celebrated spot, I was forced to give it up, when I found, besides the distance we could go in a carriage, I should be obliged to ride six hours on horseback. 122 LETTERS. But even that was not so formidable as starting at four o'clock in the morning, which we should have been obliged to have done, to make so long an excursion in one day. So we decided to go to the top of Mount Pentelicus. "With my eyes half open, I went down to breakfast, for we could not think of starting on such an expedi- tion, without first fortifying ourselves with something to eat, and by five o'clock, we were in the carriage, the saddle horses having previously been sent on. After leaving the city, we entered upon a wide plain, here and there dotted with a vineyard or grove of olive trees, but generally barren and brown, save where the purple thyme, or clusters of flowering oleanders, added variety to the scene. Perhaps, earlier in the season, this plain would look fresh and green, and have bright gay flow- ers, but now the country every where is parched and sere. On our right, Hymettus lifted its purple head, and on our left were the rock-crowned peak of Lycabet- tus, and the lofty range of Mount Parnes, Pentelicus bounding the prospect ahead. After two hours' drive, we came to a thick grove of trees, where we left the carriage, and mounting our horses, we crossed a little rivulet, and began the ascent of the mountain. The first part of the way, the path was not very steep, but it was so covered with loose stones as to render the footing rather unsafe. But the stones in the path were not all the difficulties we met, for soon after leaving the carriage, it began to rain, at first slightly, then it increased to a heavy shower, till we were uncomfortably wet. There was no shelter near ; we must either return to the carriage or press on to a grotto in the mountain, about half way up. We LETTERS. 123 decided on the latter course, and hurried on as rapidly as possible, though in such a stony path, we could not go out of a walk. The thick bushes of oleander and the masses of brush-wood that lined the path, showered upon us, as we rubbed by them, and by the time we arrived at the grotto, we were about as wet as we could be. Water is as great a damper to enthusiasm as to many other things, and literally soaked when we arrived at the grotto, I cared not much for the sublimity of the scene around me. Strattis made a fire of dried branches, and standing within the grotto, sheltered from the rain, I had ample leisure to look about me. Higher and higher rose the wreaths of smoke, encircling the ivy which grew in luxuriance over the rocky sides, and startling the owl from his perch, while the flames threw a lurid light over the roof and walls of the cavern. Around us were im- mense quarries, from which the Pentelican marble is taken, and below us were hills and plains, rolling on to the distant sea. Now, the valley was wrapped in mists, and now, the sun shone out, lighting up every nook, and shining upon every mountain peak. It was very, very grand, and being thoroughly dried, I quite forgot the previous wetting. Out shone the sun at last, and with every leaf and shrub glittering wih tiny drops, we mounted and pur- sued our upward way. Steeper and steeper grew the path, and wilder and wilder the scene, and the view below was becoming more and more magnificent, but I would not stop to look around me, determining to wait till I reached the top, that the whole might burst upon me at once. And now the path became so rocky and steep that we 124 LETTERS. dismounted, and pursued the rest of the way on foot. Arriving at the top, which is 3500 feet above the sea, I sat down under the shelter of a high rock, and threw my eyes quickly around. What a scene ! I drew my breath, and looked again. Strattis began to talk, and point out the different localities, and then what names I heard, so dear to every lover of Greece ! First of all, at our very feet, lay Marathon, which " Preserves alike its bounds and boundless fame, The battlefield where Persia's victim horde First bowed beneath the brunt of Hellas' sword, As on the morn to distant glory dear, When Marathon became a magic word, Which uttered, to the hearer's eye appear The camp, the host, the fight, the conqueror's career." Yes ! the very name of Marathon brought the great, the memorable battle before us, which was fought there more than two thousand three hundred years ago, when a handful of Greeks put to flight " Persia's horde." Between us and the plain of Marathon, a succession of rolling hills sloped gradually down, and beyond, the . sea came up in a semicircular bay, protected by a long, low promontory. Still farther on, rose Euboea from the sea, its shore beautifully indented with bold promonto- ries and sheltered bays. On and on swept the sea, gemmed with beauteous isles, among which rose con- spicuous Andros and Tinos, while away in the distance, Syra bounded the view. I turned around ; the sea washed the peninsula on that side, and beyond queenly Egina and " sea-born Salamis," rose a range of moun- tains, at whose feet lay Eleusis and Megara. Turning my eyes landward, I see " hills upon hills arise," Parnes and Cytheron swelling up in their ma- jesty, while Helicon brings up the rear. And yonder LETTERS. 125 towers Mount Geranea, and far away, amid those hid- den recesses, lies Delphi, near which flows the Castalian fount, whose waters gave inspiration and power to the poet. Over hill and plain, and wooded dell and rocky ra- vine, and a few villages gleaming here and there, my eye roamed, till it rested on Athens, almost engirdled by the groves of the Academy and by green vineyards. How plainly I saw the Acropolis, and so distinctly stood out the fair temples in their beauty, I could almost count the pillars. Varied as this scene was, perhaps its predominant trait was the unbroken stillness that reigned over all. Not a moving thing was to be seen ; not a sail broke the majestic repose of the dark blue waters. How many times I ejaculated, " Oh, glorious land of Greece !" And even while I ate my lunch, I broke out a dozen times with " The mountains look on Marathon, And Marathon looks on the sea." At length we must descend ; we soon reached our horses, which were quietly browsing the scanty grass, and mounting, we descended the steep, stony path, which seemed to me almost as bad as some of the roads in Syria. "We descended safely, however, and in due time arriving at the grove where we had left the car- riage, we were soon on our homeward way, reaching the hotel about two o'clock. The next day we were off on another excursion, to Eleusis and Megara, leaving here at five o'clock in the morning, and not getting home till nearly eight in the evening, but as we went the whole distance in a car- riage, I was not at all fatigued. 126 LETT BBS. We went out by " the sacred way," the road along which the religious processions of old were wont to pass, and occasionally saw remains of the ancient pave- ment and the marks of the chariot wheels, and niches in the sides of the hills, where the votaries of the gods deposited their offerings. Never was there a lovelier morning, and the mountains and the sea, and the " Isles that crown the Egean deep," were clothed in the most delicate tints imaginable. Fair Greece, favored child of poesy and song, to me thou art charming ! Arriving at the little village of Daphne, we stopped to visit an old monastery, remarkable for nothing but the antique mosaics that line the dome of the little chapel. In a chamber beyond the chapel, we were shown the burial places of* two of " the Dukes of Ath- ens." From the roof, or as it is called here, " the ter- race," of the monastery, we had a magnificent view. Before us stretched the famous " pass of Daphne," a narrow, rocky gorge, between two peaks of ^Egaleos, at the end of which opened the Bay of Eleusis, its waters of the clearest blue, while the background was com- posed of hills clothed in amethystine hues. Then on we went, along the Bay of Eleusis, the mountains on our right, and the blue sea on our left, studded with islands, among which Egina and " sea- born Salaniis" shone the most conspicuously. This bay seems almost entirely land-locked, being encircled on three sides by rugged mountains, and almost shut in, in front, by Salamis. I have rarely seen a lovelier bay. At Eleusis, there are some remains of the temple of Ceres, and we saw a large number of shattered columns and broken statues, and an immense medallion of LETTERS. 127 Pentelic marble, representing in bold relief the head and bust of a warrior in complete armor. While we walked about, half the inhabitants, old and young, male and female, gathered about us, among whom, the most conspicuous objects were little girls and boys, apparently not more than four of five years old, having the care of babies, and of children two or three years younger than themselves. It seems to me this is one of the characteristic features of the East, and I think I have spoken of it more than once. Amid all these groups gathered around us, Mr. and Mrs. A, who were with us, could find but one who could understand Greek, as spoken in Athens, they being Albanians, and speaking a dialect peculiar to themselves. After resting a while at Eleusis, not so much for our own sake, as for that of the horses, we went on to Megara, twelve or fifteen miles farther. Nearly all the way, our road lay along the bay, while the mountains almost encir- cled us. Once we crossed a plain, covered with the vine and the olive, but otherwise the country seemed barren and desolate, the ground looking parched and dry, though I am told in early Spring, every thing bears quite a dif- ferent aspect. At Megara we were told there was nothing interesting to be seen, and as it was excessively hot, we did not care about walking round to make any new discoveries, so we took possession of the upper story of a kind of Khan, ate our lunch, and then laid down on the floor to sleep. On our way back, we took fresh horses at Eleusis, and then came on quite rapidly, arriving here before eight o'clock, the distance we travelled that day, being about fifty miles. As we came towards Athens, 128 LETTERS. she looked lovely, dressed inlier evening robe of beauty, the heavens being glorious with its many hues, the pil- lars of the Parthenon standing out clearly against the soft sky, while Hymettus, Lycabettus and Pentelicus were bathed in a flood of rosy light. The sunsets here are magnificent ; they almost rival my cherished ones on the Nile. The thin haze that floats upon the moun- tains, the lovely hues of the sky, cloudless and clear as possible, the change that comes over the earth and the heavens as the twilight deepens ; all these, and a thou- sand other charms, to which my feeble pen cannot do justice, serve to make a sunset at Athens exquisitely beautiful. At a little distance from the city, Strattis suddenly announced the approach of the Queen. We drew up while her Majesty passed, it not being considered eti- quette to be driving on, while a royal personage is pass- ing, and I had a better view of Queen Amelia, than I had had before. She was in a carriage drawn by four horses, accompanied by her "mistress of robes" who sat beside her, and preceded and followed by three or four attendants on horseback. On mature observation, I should pronounce the Queen of Greece, not exactly handsome perhaps, but decidedly good looking, having clear, bright eyes, a full, florid face, and an exceeding- ly beautiful and winning smile. For the gratification of my lady readers, I will say she wore a silk dress, a cachemere shawl, and a bright pink bonnet, with flow- ers of the same color inside, which I am sorry to be obliged to add were exceedingly unbecoming to her high color. Our good star again was in the ascendant, for a half hour afterwards, we met King Otho. I like his appear- ance much; his eyes are soft yet brilliant, though I LETTERS.' 129 should say wanting in soul, and in intellect. His smile and the look of his eyes, as he bends them on you, while he bows graciously, are exceedingly captivating, and to me, (I am frank enough to confess it,) the King of Greece, mounted on a spirited horse, dressed in the charming costume of the Albanians, the circumstances in which he is placed at present, investing him with a mournful interest, is peculiarly fascinating. It is not my province, neither is this the time and place, to dilate upon the state of Greece, nor indeed of any country through which we may pass. You, with your constant access to books and newspapers, at present so full of these subjects, are probably more conversant with them, than I, in my wanderings about, am able just now to be, but one thing I must say for Greece, and that is, that at this moment she is probably at one of the most critical points of her life. How will she pass this crisis ? Oppressed by enemies within, and foes without, will she be able to throw off the shackles that bind her, and appear once more before the world in her former brightness and glory, or will " she draw tighter the bonds that enslave her, and be lost in the shadow of mightier powers ?" The future will decide. When I meditate upon the present state of Greece, and compare her with what she once was, I am ready to weep over her fallen greatness, and I sigh and mournfully exclaim, " Poor Greece !" Yesterday we spent the day at Rev. Mr. Hill's, long known to the world at large, as one of the most success- ful Missionaries and Teachers in foreign lands. True, the work he has accomplished may not be counted by the numbers he has brought from the error of their ways, but in the seeds of good that have been sown, and 9 130 'LETTERS. of which a future generation will show the fruits better than this. I regret exceedingly that the holidays should have commenced before we arrived, as I should have liked much to have seen the schools in their full operation. As it was, I went yesterday all over the Mission premises, and had occasion to admire the neat- ness and order that reigned every where. In the afternoon we drove down to the Phalerum, which before the time of the Persians, was the harbor of Athens. The road has lately been bordered with* trees on either side, under the direction of the Queen, she frequenting this road very often, as she generally goes down to the Phalerum every morning to bathe. We had a quiet ramble along the sea shore, but my pleasure during the whole day was greatly damped by sickness, which at last increased so much, that I was obliged to ask my kind friends to drive me home with- out delay. It is never very pleasant to be sick in a for- eign land, but just now while the cholera is near, per- haps I shall be excused if I do feel a little degree of anxiety about myself. To-day I have not been out at all, but have tried to write a little to divert my mind from dwelling too much upon my own affairs. I have written this long letter at many intervals, and in much pain, which must be my apology for its defects. LETTERS. 131 LETTER LIX. Prospects for Departure. Queen's Farm. Garden of the Palace, Greek Costume. Lycabettus. View from top Acropolis. Sunset. Parthe- non by Moonlight. Farewell to Friends. Cavia. Maid of Athens. ATHENS, Aug. 3d. MY DEAREST P. : We are still shut up here, as you will see by the date of this, and I am sorry to be forced to add, that we see no prospect whatever of getting away. Remonstrances and efforts amount to nothing ; the steamers will not take passengers, and we cannot compel them to take us. Mr. King, in his capacity as consul, has made every exertion to procure us permission to depart, but thus far in vain. Two or three times our hopes of a speedy departure have been raised only to be dashed to the ground again with renewed violence. We try to be quiet and patient under the disappointment, and to trust that all will work out for good, and our friends here say, we bear it remarkably well, but it is a great hindrance to us, for summer is now hastening to a close, and we have not yet entered Germany. But there is no use in fretting. We talk over the affair every day, and amuse ourselves with wondering what comments you will all make on the subject, and with hoping every Tuesday, we may get away the next Fri- day, and every Friday, that we may be able to leave the next Tuesday. Meanwhile we are as pleasantly situated as possible, under like circumstances. Our hotel is good, and what is of quite as much consequence just now, the charges are reasonable ; we are surrounded by good friends, 132 LETTERS. whose houses and hearts are ever open to us ; twice a week we see the latest newspapers from the United States, and every Sunday we enjoy the great privilege of going twice to church. And now I fancy I hear you ask, " what have you done to amuse- yourselves all this time?" and this rea- sonable question I shall now proceed to answer. For several days after my last letter, I was not well enough to do much of anything, except to read a little and write a little each day. That tardy journal of mine was halting a little behind, and I tugged at that every day to bring it up. Then it was such a luxury to sit quietly down and read, and we had so many books lent us by our good friends here, that the hours glided by almost insensibly in the company of an inter- esting author. I had enough of early rising when circumstances compelled me to practice that virtue, so that I have indulged at will in morning naps. Every morning, between eight and nine o'clock, the band plays in front of the Palace, while the guard is changed, and the strains of music, oft of some well remembered air, mingle most deliciously with my late dreams, and my early reveries. During the heat of the day I have sel- dom been out, but after dinner we take a walk, ending each day with a^quiet evening spent with some of our friends here. To-day we are told we may leave next week ; go as far as the island of Syra, where we must perform quar- antine eight days, after which we may take the next Aus- trian steamer to Trieste. Think of that ! What a pros- pect ! Eight days' quarantine in that lazaretto, under a burning sun, without a tree to shade that glaring edifice ! LETTERS. 133 The very thought of it makes me shudder. But we shall do that, rather than run the risk of being kept here till next September. But allow me to enter a little more into particulars of our evening amusements. One day last week imme- diately after dinner we drove out to "the Queen's Farm," about five miles from town. This is a favorite ride of the Queen's, and she goes there nearly every evening to drink milk and eat ices, with which we should have been delighted to have been regaled, but unfortunately those good things are only served up for royal personages. "We found everything there in the nicest order ; a beautiful garden, well stocked with fruits and flowers ; a fertile vineyard, with immense clusters of ripening fruit ; a large barn yard, full of poultry, and fat cows, and frolicsome calves, and a small castle-like house, from the terrace of which we obtained a splendid view of Athens and its environs. Another evening we went to the palace to see the King and Queen ride out. Looking into the garden, we saw the Queen in a little carriage driving two of the most charming ponies imaginable. After that, she mounted her horse and dashed by us, the King hurry- ing on to catch up with her. They are very particular in bowing to every one who salutes them, the Bang gracefully touching his cap to all ladies. I enjoyed exceedingly a quiet walk in that lovely garden. The flowers, and the trees, and the clear sky, and the glimpses of ruined temples, and the people in gay attire, formed a beautiful and ever-varying picture. I am perfectly in love with the costume worn by the men ; the full kirtle, the richly embroidered gaiters and jackets, the large open sleeve flowing behind and 134 LETTERS. displaying the full sleeve of the shirt, dazzlingly clean and white, the red cap, hanging gracefully down one side, with its long blue tassel, combined with the grace- ful walk of these men, make them look like heroes on a stage. Unfortunately the women, except on great festivals, have dropped the peculiar costume of their country, and dress too much like other Europeans, ex- cept many of them wear a red cap, with a braid of hair twisted around it, or a handkerchief folded with pecu- liar grace around the head. One day this week we climbed to the summit of Ly- cabettus, and a hard climb I found it, particularly after the weakness incidental to sickness, and to leading so inactive a life as I have lately done, but the magnificent view from the top more than paid for the labor of reaching it. Let me copy here a few words from my note book, written on the spot. " At our feet lies Ath- ens, girdled by brown plains and rugged hills, except where the vineyards and ' olive groves of Academe, Plato's retirement,' present the appearance of a broad green belt. The hills are clothed in their robes of am- ethystic hue, while the blue sea glitters beyond, dotted with islands, queenly Egina, and * sea born Salamis,' showing the most conspicuously. Yonder rises the Acropolis, and over its turreted walls, stands out every pillar of the Parthenon in bold relief against the glow- ing sky. And there too I see Mars' Hill, where the intrepid Paul proclaimed a new religion to the ' men of Athens.' How lonely stand the pillars of Jupiter Olympus, and yet how majestic, for the very heavens seem to rest upon them ! " And I can trace the bed of the Ilissus, from the mar- gin of green that follows its windings, though the wa- LETTERS. f 135 ter itself has quite disappeared. Beyond, stretches up Hymettus, a few green patches shining out here and there, and further still, rises Pentelicus, with its rich quarries of marbles, while between us and that lay vineyards and olive groves. Out from the green trees peep forth white houses, forming many a picture of rural beauty. But the greatest charm of all is the ex- quisite coloring of the earth and the sky ; the purple hills and the glowing hues that envelope all as with a rich veil." The rocky summit of Lycabettus is crowned with a little church, and as I looked within, the air came wafted with rich incense, and the murmur of a soft sweet voice reached my ear. A young candidate for holy orders, (so I judged from his dress) was standing with rapt face, chanting a hymn, his clear olive com- plexion, and dark eyes, lighted up with enthusiasm, and his whole appearance showing that his heart and his soul were engaged in the worship he was offering up. His long black hair hung in wavy curls on his shoulders, and as he came out on the rock, and cast his eyes over the scene, the bright red spot glowing on his brown cheek, and the fire yet in his dark eyes, I thought I had never seen a more interesting face. Yesterday evening we went again to the Acropolis. Did I before tell you that in ascending the hill we passed the ruins of the theatre of Herodius Atticus and of the temple of Bacchus ? The arched openings in the massive walls of the theatre served as a frame to the picture beyond, a picture formed of undulating mead- ows, set off in the background by mountain peaks and a glimmering of blue water. I noticed last evening, what escaped my observation before, that there is a double 136 LETTERS. row of pillars at each end of the Parthenon, and that all the pillars taper towards the top. With difficulty we climed up a ruined staircase, and stood upon the top of the Parthenon, and saw the sun sink slowly behind the hills. "What an exquisite scene it was ! How matchless was the coloring that wrapped all as in a halo ! The calm water, the sea-girt isles, the beautiful form of the mountains, " the flowery hill, Hymettus," the rock crowned Lycabettus, the distant Pentelicus, with its summit tinged with soft roseate hues, the varied tints of the sky, here like molten gold, there fading away to a delicate straw color ; here a glowing crimson, there a pale pink or lovely lilac, the sober brown of the plains, and the rich green of " the olive groves of Academe," the temple and its age- stained pillars, each had its own peculiar shades and tints. Seen under that lovely sky, and through that pure air, even the scenes of earth took a heavenly hue. And then we descended the stairs, and going to the upper end of the Parthenon, we seated ourselves in the marble chairs occupied by the King and Queen of Greece when they attend the meetings of the antiqua- rian society. Right through the massive portal, be- tween the gigantic pillars, I saw a little glimmering sea, backed by purple hills, upon which rested a sky perfectly glorious in its tints of amber and gold. I sat rapt in admiration at the scene. No words could do justice to the delicious blending of colors in sea and sky, in hill and dale ; and this exquisite blending is one of the peculiar charms of Greece. Slowly, as though loath to depart, these glowing tints began to fade, and as they paled away, brighter and brighter shone the moon, and more and more lustrous LETTERS. 137* glowed the stars. The beauty of the ancient Parthenon was said to be the roof of Parian marble, adorned with sculpture and paintings and gilding, but to me, there could be no fitter covering than the clear sky, studded with its countless stars. I don't know why it is, but a column standing alone, touches me more than to see a cluster of them together. It seems to speak of one who is left alone to battle with life's storms, without a friend to love him or to smile upon him. How softly fell the moonbeams on the pale marble ! How beautifully were brought out the pillars and the statues ! You may laugh at me, and call it all enthu- siasm, but I can assure you I would gladly have sat in that chair of marble, and gazed on that exquisite scene till midnight. Our two weeks' imprisonment here seemed not all in vain, since it gave us an opportunity to see the Parthenon by moonlight. In all my roamings in and about Athens, I seem like one who treads upon consecrated soil, for is it not true, what Byron said, . " Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground 1 ?" And oft and again I murmur some of the glowing lines penned by him, when he visited " Fair Greece, sad relic of departed worth, Immortal, though no more ; though fallen, great." And as I stood last evening on the top of the Par- thenon, on " the giant height Which looks o'er waves so blue, skies so serene," I felt indeed, " That he who there at such an hour hath been, Will wistful linger on that hallowed spot, And slowly tear him from the witching scene." 138 LETTERS. Changed as Athens is from her former days of glory, to me she is still lovely, and as I view her varied beauties from one point or other, I say, " Yet are thy skies as blue, thy crags as wild ; Sweet are thy groves and verdant are thy fields, Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smiled, And still his honeyed wealth Hymettus yields ; There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds, The free-born wanderer of thy mountain air ; Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds, Still in his beams Mendeli's marbles glare ; Art, Glory, Freedom fail, but Nature still is fair." Some of the time that we have been here, the heat has been intense, the air blowing as from an oven ; at others, a north wind has prevailed, bringing comforta- ble days and cool, delicious nights. One comfort can be enjoyed at Athens, and that is, ices every evening. How often we have sat in the open air, under the clear canopy of heaven, and sipped an ice, front of some cafe*, in company with the dear friends here. The remem- brance of these scenes of earthly comforts will not soon be effaced. Aug. 6th. Good news for you ! We are off to-mor- row ! After " every thing said and done," we are assured we may go to-morrow evening in the French steamer to Syra, and after waiting there three days, take the Austrian steamer, and proceed at once to Tri- este, without being obliged to perform quarantine at Syra. Is not this cheering intelligence ? We have made our last calls on our kind friends here, and I can assure you, though glad once more to be on the way, we are very sorry to part from them. Their kind attentions to us have been rendered to the last, and among my pleasant recollections of Athens, the hours I LETTERS. 139 spent in friendly intercourse with them, will stand out in full relief. Long, too, shall I remember our quiet Sundays here, and the beautiful little church where we offered up our prayers and our thanksgivings. I bid farewell here to one long-tried friend, my sad- dle, which has done me such good service in Egypt, Palestine and Syria, but which I shall no longer need, as I shall soon be in the region of railroads and dili- gences. Oh ! but I must not forget to tell you of a drive we took yesterday, part way up Hymettus, to the village of Caraa, where we had the pleasure of being introduced to the far-famed " MaM of Athens," at present known to the Athenian world as Mrs. Black. She has recently lost her oldest son, under trying circumstances, and her face is very grave and sad, true heart-sorrow being shadowed forth in her eyes, which are very, very mourn- ful. I cannot fancy her ever being beautiful, though doubtless in her youth and bloom, she had a speaking, interesting face. And now I must say adieu, for night is waning, and I have much to do to-morrow. 140 LETTERS, LETTER LX. Departure from Athens. Hindrances. Arrival at Syra. Trouble about Lodgings. Syra. Evening Promenades. Tinos. Miraculous Shrine. Exquisite Views. Old Town. Convent. Church of St. George. Delicious Evenings. SYRA, Aug. 10th. MY DEAR F : Thus far we are on our destined way towards Trieste, and here we have been waiting, this is now the third day, in an uncomfortable hotel, and in weather, the heat of which would prove trying to a more amiable person than myself. Up to the last moment of our leaving Athens, it seemed uncertain about our getting away, the agent of the Austrian company saying he was by no means sure the steamer would take us from Syra, and confidently telling us we might have to be shut ' up in this little island for a month. Not a pleasant prospect, to be sure ! On the reception of this intelligence, a " palaver" was held, at which some said one thing and some another, but the general conclusion was, that if we were to be shut up in any place, that place would better be Athens than Syra. I will not burden you, nor this sheet, with the pros and cons ; suffice it to say, we were willing to try our chance of being shut up here, or of going on to Trieste. Dr. Beretti, an eminent lawyer from Pera, who came with us from Constantinople, and who had been fellow-prisoner with us in Athens, was determined to make a bold push to get home, having been kept from his business three weeks, and we decided to share his L E T T E E S . 141 fate, feeling confident if he could go to Constantinople, we could to Trieste. The boat was to start from the Phalerum, instead of the Piraeus, which is still in quarantine, and the hour of her departure was given at six. It seemed to me we should never get away from Athens, for every thing went wrong. At first, the horses would not move, and the coachman was obliged to send to the stable for other horses. At last, after innumerable delays, we were off, but the very first hill we came to, the new horses stopped. I was sure we should be left, and my blood rose to fever heat, and I grew nervous and irritable. I could not attempt to count the times we started and stopped, but at last, the coachman meeting a return carriage, made a bargain for us to be taken down in that, so out we bundled, with all our luggage, and in a few minutes were dashing furiously towards the harbor. Will you believe it, when we arrived there, we found the steamer would not leave till eight o'clock, the French ambassador having sent down a message for them to wait till that hour for dispatches ! I made an inward vow then never to be impatient, nor to fret again, which I am very much afraid I shall break at the first temptation. I witnessed one more sunset, equal in beauty and gorgeousness of coloring to any I have ever seen, and then I bade farewell to Athens, not the last adieu, how- ever, as we must go back there to-morrow. I never saw a lovelier night than that on which we ran from Athens here. The sea was calm, the sky cloudless, the moon and the stars lustrous, the views matchless, as we passed amid a succession of islands, rising up like fortresses from the sea, and presenting 142 LETTERS. new and varying scenes of beauty. I was in ecstacies with all I beheld, and went from side to side, murmur- ing snatches of poetry and song about fair Greece, till my enthusiasm was raised to the highest pitch, and I recited to my Greek companion Fitz Halleck's beautiful poem of Marco Bozzaris, with which he was delighted. I was sorry when the time came to exchange the lovely prospect from the deck for the close cabin, but there was no alternative ; my companions were tired, and I could not stay on deck without them. There was a port-hole in my berth, and more than twenty times I awoke in the night and looked out, and always I saw the glittering sea and a mountainous shore. When morning came, we were in the harbor of Syra, and as the wind was blowing freshly, there was what the English call such a " nasty motion," we were all glad to get up, dress in a hurry and come on shore. When I complained so bitterly of the heat, as we lay in this harbor four weeks ago, I little knew that the heat was saving us from what would have been far more un- pleasant, namely, short, quick, " bobbing" waves, trying to the strongest head and stomach. I need not dwell upon our search for lodgings ; the three little hotels of Syra were full, and not a room was to be had: What " money," however, could not pro- cure, "love" obtained, for a friend of Dr. B.'s, Judge Cassimati, kindly offered us his room, which was the largest and best in this hotel. I need not say we were delicate about accenting such an offer, even though made in the most polite and friendly manner ; but what was I to do ? The gentlemen might " rough it," and sleep on beds made up in the hall, but I must have a room some where, so I gladly and thankfully accepted LETTERS. 143 the offer, made in so kind a spirit. An extra bed is put up at night for J., Dr. B. sleeps in a closet, while Judge C. occupies a narrow passage leading to our room. In this room we all congregate during the day, when the heat is too intense to permit us to go out, and read- ing, conversation and eating fill up the time. We sit with our doors and windows open, to catch what little air is stirring, and we have been much amused by the conduct of two of the waiters and the landlord, who, at little intervals, come to the door of the room, stand still a moment, casting their eyes all around, then de- liberately turn about and walk away. At first I sup- posed they were looking for something, and I invariably asked them in Italian, Greek being a " dead language" to me, what they wanted, but they never vouchsafed a reply. At last, Dr. B. could bear it no longer, and at the next visitation on the part of the waiter, which hap- pened while Judge C. was reading aloud, he jumped up and ran out into the passage, showering a torrent of Greek upon the astonished waiter, and ending by ask- ing him what he meant by coming into the room and looking about in that manner. The cool reply was, " Because God has given me two eyes to see all that is going on !" But now let me tell you a little about Syra. As I said before, it is a small island, being only ten miles long and five wide. The old town is built on a conical hill, rising abruptly, while at its foot, and on either side, is spread the new town, which has well paved streets, and some very handsome houses. In the hills back of the town, abound mica, slate, and an inferior kind of marble, and garnets are occasionally found, and iron ore in considerable profusion. Some travellers have 144 LETTERS. praised the wines of Syra, but they must like a mixture of acidity and rosin better than I do. Homer once de- scribed the island as " Fertile in flocks, in herds, in wine, in corn," but I believe that description can hardly apply to the state of the island at present. The importance of Syra depends now upon its being one of the principal ports of the Levant, vessels from all parts of the world stop- ping here. "When the heat of the day is beginning to subside, all the inhabitants betake themselves to different prome- nades and places of resort, and, of course, we followed the multitude. "We first went to a high cliff, on the right of the town, and here we had, not only a refresh- ing sea breeze, but one of the most delightful prospects imaginable, the blue sea, stretching for miles and miles away, dotted with islands clothed in as lovely tints as the sea itself. Tinos and Mycone and Paros were all clustered within a little distance of us, and the white houses and the pretty churches of Tinos seemed almost beneath our feet, though more than twelve miles off. In one of the churches at Tinos is a miraculous shrine, and the believers in this shrine dwelling at Syra, come to this cliff every evening, and as the sun goes down, kneel upon the hard rock, with their faces towards the favored isle, and offer up their vesper song and prayer. I wish I could convey to you the irresistible charm there is about these sea-girt isles, with their exquisite tints, and the delicious sky above, perfectly glowing and radiant with beautiful hues, but my powers of descrip- tion are quite too feeble for the theme, and I must con- tent myself with feeling their power, without being able to impart their fascinations to others. LETTERS. 145 In a pretty square, in the centre of the town, newly laid out and planted with trees, we sat down, to refresh ourselves according to our respective tastes, one taking coffee, another a pipe, while others contented themselves with the less excitable beverage of cool lemonade. Around dozens of little tables, similar groups were seated, engaged in similar occupations, while the wait- ers, from an adjoining coffee-house, were flying hither and thither, administering to the various wants of the company. Night came on, soft and beautiful, and still we sat, and talked of Greece and her prospects, a sub- ject of which I "never tire. Then we walked to another cliff, o'erhanging the sea, and there we found hundred of persons walking about, or sitting round little tables, eating and drinking, and listening to fine music from a band stationed in front of a cafe*. The night was perfectly lovely, the sea calm and noiseless, the moon and the stars lustrous, while the different islands reared themselves proudly and beautifully from the blue waters. Gay groups were constantly passing, the soft and musical language of the Greek mingled occasionally with the flowing Italian tongue, and the harsh Turkish. The " tall Albanian,, kirtled to the knee," walked majestically by, and as I looked on their noble forms and handsome faces, and eyes on which a shadow of mournfulness rested, I could but think perhaps they, too, were meditating upon the past glories of their country, and daring to hope and to pray that " Greece might yet be free." Yesterday afternoon we walked to the summit of the old town, and a curious place it is too, with its stee>,, narrow streets, many of them consisting of flights of steps leading from one height to another, the roof of one 10 146 LETTERS. house being on a level with the ground floor of the one above it ; and singular little houses they were too, each one having its tenants of men, women, children and pigs. On our way up we stopped at a convent, where is an English girl, whose mother I often met in Athens, and as I thought of the lone mother in her widowhood, deprived of her children, (for another daughter is in a different convent) I could but mourn over those mistaken notions of duty and religion, that could thus shut the hearts of children to the claims of home and affection. The church of St. George crowns the height upon which the old town is built, and from the terrace in front we had an extensive view of hill and vale, sea and isle. Many of the hills were covered with vine- yards, dotted here and there by white houses peeping out from among the vines, but the fairest view of all was " the sea, the deep blue sea," and the purple islands, mingling far away with the very clouds. The evening was ended on the cliffs, and I, for one, can never forget the two delicious evenings spent at Syra. As far as hotel comforts are concerned, we have had nothing to boast of in that line during our three days' sojourn in this island, but we have had, what hotels rarely furnish, the charms of delightful inter- course with heart and intellect, and that has cheered and softened all, making even the heat endurable, for we could sit still and talk, and badly cooked food, and swarms of vermin at night, only heightened this delight. But all these things, pleasant and unpleasant, must now be left behind, for the Austrian steamer has arrived, and there is no impediment thrown in the way of our leaving ; so in a few hours we are off, and with LETTERS. 147 saddened hearts we must bid farewell to friends whom we may never see again. LETTER LXI. Departure from Syra. Incident. Pleasant voyage. Pirceus. Cerigo. Modon. Navarino. Zante. Ionian Islands. Cephalonia. Ithaca. St. Maura. Paxos. Corfu. Ruins of Pola. Trieste. TRIESTE, Aug. 16th. MY DEAR P. : At length our long voyage of more than a thousand miles is ended, and we are landed safely on the shore of Austria. And a pleasant voyage it has been too ; lovely days and quiet nights, the sea almost without a ripple, and the sky without a cloud. Being the only lady pas- senger, I have had the ladies' cabin quite to myself, and every night I have lain with the window in my berth open, and many times I have wakened and looked out upon the calm sea, and the distant shore. Nothing can exceed the beauty of these summer nights, except- ing always those of Egypt and the Desert. The sun- sets have been resplendent, the moon and the stars bright yet soft, while ever and anon, across the heav- ens, has darted some brilliant meteor. Every evening while we were in Athens, we saw such meteors repeat- edly, and bright and beautiful things they were too, leaving often a train of light behind them which would last several minutes. We came on board the steamer Thursday evening the 10th, but though we were told to be there by seven, the anchor was not weighed till long after I was in my berth. At the hotel where we were staying in Syra, 148 LETTERS. there was an Italian lady, a widow, who with her two children was coming to Trieste, her home, which seve- ral years ago she had left, to go with her husband to Crete. Unfortunately her little boy had been ill, and when they came to the steamer, some objection was made to taking them on board, but their objections were finally overruled, and she took possession of her allotted place. But in a few hours, the child changed rapidly, and when the captain and the agent came on board, they refused to allow them to go on, so late in the evening they were put in a small boat and sent to the lazaretto, for the steamer being in quarantine, they could not immediately go back into the town. My heart ached for the poor afflicted woman, but all remonstrances were in vain, the agent assuring us that if we came to Trieste with that sick child on board, or that if he died on the passage, we should inevitably be put into quarantine for at least fifteen days. I said all I could to comfort the sorrowing mother, for she looked as though her heart was breaking, and as though she felt she was without friends in the world. I suppose, too, her means were straitened, and I don't know how well she could bear this further hindrance in a pecuni- ary point of view. I did not like to offer her money, but I gave her my hearty sympathy, and she thanked me gratefully for it, and the last I saw of her, was after she was seated in the small boat, pressing her sick child to her breast with one hand, and her handkerchief to her streaming eyes with the other. Silently the oars were dipped into the water, and then the boat glided away in the distance and darkness fit emblem of the sadness that was brooding over the group in the stern. LETTERS. 149 When I came on deck the next morning, we were at Pirceus, the harbor of Athens, the Acropolis towering up in the distance, backed by Lycabettus and Hymet- tus, while at their feet slumbered the city of Athens. And there we lay that long summer day, without any communication with the shore, except sending off and receiving the mails. Small boats, with their daz- zling white sails darted by us, but none dared to stop even within hail. It seemed as though we were already doomed to death, and that the shadow of pesti- lence was really brooding over us. The rocky peninsula of Piroeus is supposed to have been originally an island, but gradually changed into a peninsula by the accumulation of sand between the island and the main land. The fortifications of the harbor, of which there are at present but few remains, were erected by Themistocles, whose name stands forth proudly in the annals of Greece. As the sun went down, more and more distinctly stood out the pillars of the Parthenon, Lycabettus and Hymettus assumed deeper purple hues, and the sky grew perfectly radiant with its tints of gold and crim- son, and sapphire. At length we were off, and the city faded away in the distance, and the hills mingled indistinctly with the clouds, and the fair and goodly pillars of the Par- thenon were no longer visible, and then I felt I was bidding a long and perhaps lasting adieu to Athens. Among " isles that crown the Egean deep," our course lay, till it was time for me to go below. Early the next morning I was awakened by the .stopping of the steamer ; I looked out my window, and found we were before the island of Cerigo, having as far as my 150 LETTERS. eye could reach, a rugged mountainous coast. In clas- sic days this island was called Cythera, and was said to have received Venus after she arose from the wave ; and to have been afterwards her favorite place of abode. The island is about twenty miles in length and twelve in breadth. We had now sailed down the whole length of the eastern coast of Greece, and after rounding the capes, leaving the land at a goodly distance, we began our progress up the western shore. We passed between two or three large islands and the main land, and occa- sionally caught a glimpse of an ancient looking town, or a fertile spot, but generally the coast of Greece is of a stern and severe aspect, befitting well the char- acter of the old Spartan, and the present wild and war- like Mainote. We passed the town of. Modon with its Venetian looking fortresses and almost hidden by a rocky island, saw the bay and town of Navarino, where was fought in 1827, I think, the battle that for a time decided the fate of Greece. Towards evening we came in sight of Zante, celebrat- ed the world over for its currants, but all we could see of the island, that for a long time was called " the flower of the Levant," was the dim outline of a moun- tainous ridge. During the night, to my great regret, we passed the islands of Cephalonia, Ithaca, St. Maura and Paxos, all more or less celebrated in classic lore. Cephalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands, being about one hundred and twenty miles in circumference. Ithaca was the scene of many of Homer's narratives, and has always been called Ulysses' own isle. Santa Maura too is mentioned in Homer, but the spot in the LETTERS. 151 whole island which is most particularly interesting to lovers and poets is the high cliff called Sappho's leap, which rises precipitously from the sea, to the height of two hundred feet. This is " Leucadia's far projecting rock of woe." Here it is said the gifted daughter of song, when enamored of Phaon, leaped from the rock into the sea, and in later days victims of unrequited love have followed her example. Moore calls it, " The very spot where Sappho sung Her swan-like music ere she sprung, (Still holding, in that fearful leap, By her loved lyre,) into the deep, And dying, quenched the fatal fire At once of both her heart and lyre." Paxos is a very small island, not more than five miles long and two wide, but there is such a beautiful legend connected with it, I cannot forbear from repeating it. " At the time of our Lord's most bitter passion and death, a cry was heard announcing the death of the great god Pan, and this cry was accompanied by such piteous outcries and dreadful shrieks, as the like of hath never been heard." It is to this legend Milton so beautifully alludes, in his ode on" the Nativity. " The lonely mountains o'er, And the resounding shore, A voice of weeping heard and loud lament." When I came on deck Sunday morning, a delightful prospect greeted my eyes. On the right rose a precipi- tous mountain coast, yet showing here and there a fer- tile spot, or a cheerful looking little village peeping out from among the rocks and hills, and on the left was a shore sloping more gradually up, dotted over with vine- yards and clumps of trees, and these verdant slopes 152 LETTERS. and green trees were exceedingly refreshing to the eye, after the bare hills and arid plains of Attica. Villages and villas were scattered here and there, and white sails glided over the clear waters, and mists rolled over the distant mountain tops, now enshrouding all, now revealing hill and dale and wild ravine. I turned ea- gerly to the captain to ask him where we were, and found we were between the island of Corfu and the coast of Albania. About nine we entered the harbor of the town, and saw before us the two rugged peaks on which the cita- del is built, while the other parts of the town stretch along the shore, and extend far up the hill. All around were vineyards and groves and pleasant meadows, and I longed to exchange the deck of the steamer for a 'ramble on the hills, and the privilege of attending Di- vine service in the chapel connected with the garrison. But we were in quarantine, and were allowed to have no communication with the shore. Occasionally small boats would come off, and their occupants hold a scream- ing conversation with the officers or passengers of the steamer, and towards evening large baskets of fruit were handed up the side of the steamer, the persons having them in charge being very careful not to come in contact with any one on board. And what delicious fruit it was too. All the time we were on board " L'Egitto," we had the nicest grapes, melons, peaches, pears, plums and oranges at breakfast and dinner, and notwithstanding the prevalence of cholera, I revelled in fruit, for you know I always go on the principle that ripe fruit will never hurt any one. Nearly all that day we played round in the harbor, now lying directly before the town, and now going to LETTERS. 153 the lazaretto to land freight, and in so doing, we got different views of the town and the adjoining country. The island of Corfu is about forty miles long, and at its greatest width twenty miles across. It was men- tioned by Herodotus, though under the name of Cor- ey ra then I think, and its existence is known to have dated as far back as seven hundred and thirty-four years before the Christian era. After being subjected to many different governments, the Ionian islands are now erected into what is called " a free and independ- ent State," under the immediate protection, however, of the English government, which maintains a garrison in every important island. After dinner we left, and then we glided along a nar- row channel, the rugged coast of Albania on the one hand, and the diversified shore of the island on the other. On the mainland we occasionally saw an old town and a bright green patch, but on the island the whole country seemed fertile and well cultivated. The sun went down just as we were off the north end of the island, and then the ocean once more swept before us, though the coast of Albania was still on. our right, and as the twilight deepened, the mountains in their robes of purple hue, could scarcely be distinguished from the clouds that hovered over them. Nearly all day Monday, we were in the broad Adri- atic, entirely out of sight of land, till towards evening, when we caught a glimpse of a low range of hills. The sea was of the loveliest blue, and the air was de- lightfully refreshing and invigorating. The hot breath of the East and the South seemed to be left far behind, and we began to realize we were approaching the cooler regions of the North. 154 LETTEES. Yesterday we skirted the shore of Dalmatia and Is- tria, and had enchanting views of pretty islands, and fertile fields, and smiling villages, backed by a range of dark mountains. Some of the scenes were exquisite. While we were at dinner, we came in sight of the ruins of Pola, and we all made a rush for the deck, and saw before us an immense amphitheatre of reddish stone, and scattered here and there over the shore, large pil- lars and broken columns. One of the prettiest features of the scene yesterday, was the boats we were constantly meeting, having sails of a dark yellow color, each sail with a large cross painted on it. From the time we came on board " L'Egitto," the most exciting topic of conversation was the question whether we should be obliged to perform quarantine or not at Trieste, and what would be the length of our imprisonment in the lazaretto ? and although it was nearly eleven when we arrived here last night, I could not think of going to bed till the important ques- tion was settled. To our great joy, before the anchor was dropped in the harbor of Trieste, a small boat came alongside, and we heard the delightful response of " no," to the captain's question " is there quaran- tine ?" Late as it was, the greater part of the passen- gers came on shore, but we preferred to stay on board, and came off about seven this morning. I told J. if you had been here you would have been off by sun- rise, but I take everything as easily as possible. Trieste is situated, as you know, at the head of the gulf of Trieste, and its capacious harbor holds vessels from all parts of the world. The town lies in a semi- circular form around the gulf, while it is backed by a LETTERS. 155 lofty range of green mountains, along whose slopes ap- pear many a pretty village and charming country-seat. "We are at the Hotel Eliseo, and while we were waiting for breakfast, I commenced this letter. After break- fast we took a carriage and drove through several streets, which we found wide, well paved and adorned with handsome houses of white stone. Indeed so large and fine looking are the houses, that we were con- stantly wondering where the poor people lived. In the principal streets the shops were fine, and I had to stop many times to admire the tempting goods. A crowd of people was in the streets in all sorts of cos- tumes, the Greek in his becoming fustinella, the Italian lady in her gay attire, and the bare-headed and bare- footed German and Swiss women, many of them carry- ing immense loads on their heads and backs. "We rode to the top of one of the mountains that en- viron the city, and had a splendid view of the far-reach- ing Adriatic in front, and hills and mountains rising up in the back-ground, spotted with vineyards and pleasant fields. I cast many a longing look across the gulf, where I supposed fair Venice to lie, and longed once more to see that " city of a hundred isles," but we have not the time, as we must press on towards the North. Our seats are already taken in the diligence for Adelsberg, and at six we must be off. Our luggage must now go to the custom house to be examined and sealed up, to escape undergoing a rigid examination at Vienna, and I have time to add no more. 156 LETTERS. LETTER LXII. Diligence. Grotto of Adelsberg. Laibach. Railroad. Beautiful Coun- try. Arrival at Vienna. VIENNA, Aug. 19th. MY DEAR F. : It is raining fast, and I cannot go out, and having just refreshed ourselves with looking over a package of fifteen letters from our dear home, I turn my thoughts towards you, and commence at this early period after our arrival here, to give you an account of our journey hither. It seemed strange, after an interval of thirteen years, to find ourselves once more in a diligence, though much smaller this one was than those we were formerly accus- tomed to in France. We soon left Trieste behind us, and began to ascend the mountain, and for more than two hours we were constantly on the rise, each turn giving us a more extensive view of the city below, and the sea beyond. Our diligence was small, carrying two persons in the coupe", four in the inttrieur, and four in the rotund. We were in the interieur, two Germans, a man and a woman, being our companions. Night came on, and I settled myself in my corner to sleep, and, with occasional wakings, slept quite nicely till little past two, Thursday morning, when we arrived at Adelsberg. There we found the inn full, and we were shown into the coffee- room, to wait till a man could go out and procure us lodgings. Late as it was, we found three men sitting round a table, playing cards, a pile of money before them, showing to what extent they had been gambling. They were a hard looking set, I can tell you. LETTERS. 157 At three o'clock, we were in good soft German beds, and at nine we went back to the hotel, had our break- fast in a room where at least a dozen men were smoking, and then we prepared for our visit to the celebrated grotto of Adelsberg. A walk of nearly a mile brought us to a mountain, in the side of which is the opening into the grotto. At the entrance we waited a while for the guides to go in before and light up some of the chambers. All due preparation being made, we at last commenced our subterranean tour. I had heard so much of this wonderful grotto, from some of our fellow- travellers in the East, that I had fully made up my mind to be disappointed, but in this expectation I was disap- pointed myself, for it certainly proved to be a most mag- nificent affair. For more than two hours we wandered about in the bowels of the earth, and when we ended our walk, we were told we had not half explored the cave. In fact, no one seems to know how far it extends under the mountains, but it is supposed ten miles at least. Parties have started to explore it, taking provis- ions with them, and after being there for more than two days, have returned without finding the extremity. The guides had arranged the lights to show the differ- ent chambers to the best possible effect, and the number and variety of these chambers exceed all belief. At one time we seemed to be among the aisles of an immense Gothic church ; at another, in a dimly lighted sculpture gallery, surrounded by figures of every form and size ; now we stood in front of a huge pulpit, with a heavy, old-fashioned sounding-board hanging over it ; and now we walked in a garden, every crystal seeming to be shaped like some fruit or vegetable. Here we almost groped along a dark passage, a foaming torrent dashing 158 LETTERS. along far beneath our feet, the darkness, and the roar of the rushing water rendering the scene fearfully grand. This stream is supposed to be the same as the Unz, which bursts forth from the mountain several miles beyond, pieces of wood thrown into the stream, at its entrance into the grotto, being seen ten or twelve hours afterwards in the Unz. Some of the stalactites that adorn these chambers are immense, being as large as many of the pillars in many churches, and it is really wonderful into how many shapes these stalactites have wreathed themselves. Now you see a figure called the Virgin Mary, and it requires no stretch of the imagination to behold a figure with a crown on her head, and holding an infant in her arm's ; and here you see the chair of St. Peter at Rome, with its pillared canopy. There you see a butcher's shop, with a round of beef on one side, and a flitch of bacon overhead, and here a pillar, which, on being struck, emits the spund of a bell. From the ceiling of this chamber hangs a curtain of stone, and yet so transpa- rent that the light shows plainly through it, and along the border depends something that looks precisely like lace, so thin and fragile it seems, and yet it would re- quire quite a blow to break it. In that room, you see stalactites arranged in regular form, like the pipes of an organ, and but a little distance off, there is quite a dif- ferent formation still, resembling perfectly a waterfall. One large cavern is called the ball-room, and in Whit- sun week a ball is given here. A natural gallery at one end, adorned with a balustrade of stalactites, is for the music, while around the hall, are niches and re- cesses, all formed by nature, remember, which are used for supper and dressing rooms. This room was bril- LETTERS. 159 liantly lighted up for our examination, and it was like a scene in fairy land, those pillars and arches glittering like diamonds, and I tried to fancy how much more brilliant it would look, illuminated for the ball, lights shining from every part, and bringing into view each hidden nook and recess. And how splendidly must the music sound, echoing and re-echoing among the arches and pillars, and stealing far away into dim, obscure chambers ! Not the least striking feature of this grotto, is the variety of colors seen, one pillar being of a delicate rose tint, while another would resemble yellow alabas- ter. And then the crystals sparkling in the pillars, and gleaming forth in the roof of the caverns, shining here and there like stars, rendered it all perfectly radiant and dazzling. To all this beauty there was one drawback, and that was the excessive dampness that reigned every where, water constantly dropping on our heads, while the ground beneath our feet was wet and cold. The walk back to the inn, in the bright sunlight, was very pleasant, along a lane bordered with trees and gemmed with wild flowers. Adelsberg is pleasantly situated in a sheltered valley, high hills rising all around it. The houses are of stone, and look clean and comfortable. We did one stupid thing at Trieste, for in having our luggage sealed up there for Vienna, we never thought of the two days which must elapse before we should reach this city, and of the things we might want in that time. "We dared not open any of the packages, for fear of exciting suspicion on our arrival at Vienna, and so we got along as well as we could. The worst of it was, my writing desk was sealed up too, and I could not write at all, except in my note-book, which I always 160 LETTERS. carry about me. Fortunately, too, we had a few books out, so the remainder of the day did not pass so very heavily. Besides, as we were to take the diligence at half past two on Friday morning, a " nap" in the after- noon did not come amiss. The fear of not being ready when the diligence should come along, the uncertainty about our finding vacant places in it, the question constantly coming up whether we could arrive here in season to-day to receive our long expected letters, all this served to render our sleep rather broken, so that by one o'clock, we were up and dressed, in readiness to depart. But oh ! the tediousness of that long hour and a half that intervened. At last, the cracking 01 the whip was heard, and we hurried to the door. But the waiter would never wake up, and the key was not in the lock, and the conductor was thundering on the door ! The sleepy servant at length appeared ; the key was found in the wrong place ; two seats were vacant in the intS- rieur, but the conductor grumbled at our luggage, and declared he could not and would not take it. At last, even this difficulty was settled ; each box and bag were stowed away, and off we rattled through the streets. In a few minutes I was fast asleep, and I did not waken till the sun, vigorous body that he is, had been up a long time. Bradshaw's Guide gave but two trains leaving Laibach, one in the morning, the other in the evening, and as it was long past the hour for the morn- ing train, we began to feel pretty sure we could not see Vienna to-day, in season to get our letters. Fortunately, Bradshaw was wrong, for on reaching Laibach, at ten o'clock, we found a train would start at noon, going through in eighteen hours. Not having LETTERS. 161 eaten any thing since four o'clock the day before, we plunged into a breakfast with a hearty appetite, having first washed and " prinked" in a room given up for our special use, in the depot. And I could not but think what a capital thing it would be, if in our immense depot at home some rooms could be fitted up, where weary travellers could thus refresh themselves, and get a little nap, while waiting to go on by another train. Punctual to the moment, we were off at twelve, a man sounding a horn, the whistle answering the signal, and then away we went. What a novelty to be on a railroad ! Just ten months to a day since we went down from London to Southampton, and that was the last time we were on a railroad. The country was lovely, so green and so fresh, so fertile and so well cultivated. The road lay through a valley, along a rapid river, high mountains hemming us in on both sides. Green and wooded, these mountains were to their very summits, often crowned by a picturesque looking church, or fortress-like castle. Such pretty houses, too, we passed, belonging to the railroad, and occupied by men em- ployed on the road, every house having its little plat of flowers, and often a rustic little arbor. And the people looked clean and healthy, and seemed industri- ous and happy. Soon after leaving Laibach, we met with an accident, I don't know what, for it was raining fast, and no one cared to get out to see, but I think the breaking of a wheel, and there we had to wait three long hours, till the broken carriage was taken off the track, and we were once more ready to move on. The carriage we were in was very comfortable, having high-backed seats to rest the head against, and I slept very soundly till morning. How magnificent was the 162 LETTERS. scene when I awoke ! Higher and higher rose the mountains, some of them craggy and bare, and the road wound through ravines, passing over gorges and pre- cipitous descents, now darting through a long tunnel, and now spanning a fearful height, by a bridge of im- mense length and strength. I cannot tell you how much we enjoyed this ride. The contrast between this country, so green, so fertile, and those through which we long travelled in the East, was startling in the extreme. Never in Erin's Emerald Isle were there fields clothed in a lovelier green than those we saw between Laibach and Vienna. For an hour or two, before reaching this city, the mountains receded, and the plain grew broader and broader, every inch of the ground cultivated and rich as a garden. In fact, for miles it seemed like one vast vegetable garden, not a fence or a hedge to be seen, dividing one field from another. Never was there a quieter entrance into a large city than our entrance into Vienna. In fact, so little did I see around me that looked like a city, I doubted for a long time whether we had arrived, and I did not stir from my seat till every passenger had left the carriage we were in. A porter took our luggage to the door of the depot ; there we found carriages, and jumping into one, were soon on our way to the Golden Lamb, recom- mended to us by our good friend Mr. R. At the barrier we were stopped for our pass, the pass- 'port having been taken from us two or three hours be- fore, and a pass given us instead, and then the seals of our luggage were examined, and we were allowed to pass on. And this was the formidable entrance I had so long dreaded, into the Austrian dominions! The LETTERS. 163 examination of luggage was not an hundredth part so strict as I thought it would be, not beginning to com- pare with that we underwent on our arrival in England. It was raining fast, and I could see but little of the streets through which we passed, but after an intermi- nable ride, as it seemed to me in my hungry state, we arrived at our hotel, which is situated in the suburb called Leopoldstadt. A capital breakfast, and good news from home, refreshed us, and as soon as the weather will admit, we shall be ready for sight-seeing, upon which I enter with new zest after my long rest at Buyukdere and Athens. I can't tell you how strange it seems to see chamber- maids about, for with the exception of the two weeks we were at Jerusalem, the care of our rooms has al- ways devolved upon men ever since we left London. How near home seems to me, when in three weeks from the time a letter was written, I am reading it. But the weather seems to be clearing up, and so I am off for a walk. LETTER LXIII. Situation of Vienna. Walls. Glacis. Suburbs. St. Stephen's Church. Companions in Sight-seeing. Belvedere Palace. Lower Belvedere. Ambras Collection. Church of the Capuchins. Hotel. Imperial Pal- ace. State Carriages. Schonbrunn. Dinner in the open air. The Prater. Gardens. VIENNA, Aug. 22d. MY DEAR FRIENDS : According to my usual custom, before entering upon any account of this city, I shall give you a little idea of 164 LETTERS. its situation. Though Vienna is said to lie on the Danube, the river is about two miles from the city, but a branch of it runs directly in front of our windows, and a dirtier looking little stream I would not wish to see. Vienna derives its name from the Wien, an insignificant river which runs through a part of the city, or rather through the suburbs. If you had a good plan of this city to refer to, you would give your assent to some writer's remarks, that the situation of Vienna, and the arrangement of the streets, might be compared to a spider's web, the centre of the web being the " place" around St. Stephen's Church, from which all the streets radiate, to the walls of the city, and thence, across what is called the " Glacis," to the suburbs. The city itself, not large in circumference, is sur- rounded by a high wall, so thick that the top of it is arranged as a walk, and forms one of the numerous promenades of the inhabitants. "Within so small a compass is the city collected, that one can walk with ease completely around it in less than an hour. But the suburbs are large, and extend over far more ground than the city itself, from which they are separated by a wide, open space, planted with trees and carpeted with the richest grass. This is what is called the Glacis, and was originally a part of the fortifications. Like the parks of London, this spot may be termed " the lungs" of this city, for here the inhabitants come to breathe the pure fresh air. The number of inhabitants within the city and the suburbs is estimated at four hundred and eighty thousand. And now let me pro- ceed to other themes. I have written to you so fully from the East, that I shall merely glance at what I see LETTERS. 165 in this part of Europe, or my " Budget" would swell to an interminable length. And so for sight-seeing in Vienna. After it had ceased raining on Saturday, we went out to take a little stroll. Crossing the bridge built over the arm of the Danube, and passing through a massive gate, we entered at once the busy streets of the city, paved with large flat stones, but without any sidewalks, so that in my eagerness to look into the shop windows, I was in constant danger of being run over. Compared with the cities of the East, the streets of Vienna are wide ; compared with those of more modern towns in the Western world, they are narrow. The houses are of stone, from four to six stories high, and some of the shops are very elegant, and I may add, exceedingly tempting. Suddenly emerging into an open space, we stood be- fore a magnificent cathedral, in the richest Gothic style, ornamented with towers and a spire and a wilderness of delicate fretwork, its high peaked roof being covered with colored tiles, arranged in fanciful mosaics, so as to form the Austrian eagle. I needed not to enquire its name, for I was sure it could be no other than St. Stephen's. Its appearance is grand and imposing in the highest degree, and, rich in historical associations, and a perfect gem of architecture, we were exceedingly interested in it. We entered the church ; it was the hour of evening prayer, and a number of people were kneeling here and there, each one repeating the prayers in a loud tone. We silently paced up and down the nave, and at every turn stopped to gaze with new zest on the " long drawn aisle," with its massive pillars and ornamented arches, and delicate tracery. Through the windows of richly stained glass, the softened light fell, gilding altars, and 166 LETTERS. tombs, and chapels and statues with a matchless radi- ance. How lovely, how exquisite it was ! But even with all this effulgence of beauty before me, my mind often wandered to a far humbler church, having the same name, in my own distant home, and I sighed to think how far the two St. Stephen's were from each other. The first foundations of this church were laid more than seven hundred years ago, though it was not finished till the fifteenth century. Its length is three hundred and forty-five feet, and the width, from one arm of the cross to the other, two hundred and thirty. The spire, or south tower, is four hundred and forty-four feet high, and is a conspicuous object from every part of Vienna. It is a perfect specimen of a Gothic spire, tapering off beautifully, and adorned with a profusion of arches and buttresses. We have since been to the top of the spire, and I may as well tell you about it now, as to wait for it to come in in its proper place. We went up by five hundred and thirty steps, and I thought I should have dropped down with fatigue before we reached the top. Round and round, and up and up we went, till my head ached as badly as my feet. We stopped, however, several times, to see different objects of interest, the great bell, weighing three hundred and eighty tons, made from nearly two hundred pieces of cannon, taken from the Turks in their last siege of the city, and the room for the fire watch, stationed there day and night, to watch for fires, and to inform by signals in which part of the city one has broken out. The view from the top of the spire was magnificent. The city, the green band that encircles it, the surround- ing suburbs, lay at our feet, and beyond, stretched the LETTERS. 167 beautiful country, green fields and high hills, while the waters of the Danube glistened here and there, as the river meandered through the rich valley. The eye, too, can take in Napoleon's battlefields of Loba and Wa- gram, Aspern and Essling. It was a toil to reach the summit of the spire, but I thought not of the stairs, when I was gazing at the vast prospect spread out before me. On Sunday, it rained pouring all day, and I did not leave the hotel, to my great regret, as there is an En- glish church here, and I should have liked so much to have attended it. One of our letters from home announced to us that our fellow townsman, Mr. P., had sailed for Europe. J. thought he saw him the morning we arrived here, and on sending to the Police office, we found not only that he was in this city, but the name of the hotel where he was staying. And now he and a young friend of his from Boston are our companions in sight-seeing. It was so long since we had seen any fine paintings, that our steps were turned first, on Monday morning, towards the Belvedere Palace, which was built by Prince Eugene, and where he resided during the latter part of his life. It is situated in the midst of a park-like gar- den, and it was with difficulty I could leave the lovely picture without, to gaze on other beauties within. We went through room after room, lined with paintings from the Italian, Venitian, Flemish, Dutch, German and other schools, and though the collection is inferior to- many galleries I saw in Italy, I found a good many gems of beauty. But I will not dwell upon them more at length, for fear of wearying you, and of filling up, this sheet too much. 168 LETTERS. Passing down a part of the garden, along a sheltered walk, shaded by lofty trees, through which we caught glimpses of shorn lawns, dotted o'er with beds of flowers, we came to what is called the Lower Belvedere, where is the Ambras collection of antiquities, so named from the castle of Ambras, in Tyrol, where it was originally placed. Let me see what I put down in my note-book, that particularly interested me. Some sarcophagi, covered with hieroglyphics, brought from Egypt, statues and urns, found in different places ; and a large collection of ancient armor, among which those that pleased me the most were the suits of Fran- cis I. of France, a full suit of armor for man and horse, bearing the imperial arms, and belonging to the Em- peror Maximilian ; a steel skirt, fluted, and looking like the fustinella of the Greeks, belonging to Albert the Bear, Elector of Brandenburg, and a magnificent suit orna- mented with gilded bas-reliefs, which was once worn by Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma. The saddle and bridle were adorned with splendid turquoises. Besides these, we saw, the tomahawk of Montezuma, the horse- tail standard of the Grand Vizier, Kara Mustapha, the banner and weapons of Stephen Fadinger, the leader of the insurgent peasantry in 1626 ; guns inlaid with ivory and adorned with rare old carvings ; a crossbow, with etchings in ivory on the stock, done by Albert Durer, and bearing his monogram beneath ; a collection of curious old portraits and pictures ; a stag's horns, en- closed in the trunk of a tree ; specimens of rich carv- ings in wood and ivory ; tables of inlaid woods, highly polished ; miniature cabinets, adorned with pearls and precious stones ; ancient musical instruments, many of them now quite out of date, in fact, unknown in modern LETTERS. 169 times ; a set of the most charming little toys, made for the children of Francis I. of France ; the " dearest little" cradle of wood, inlaid with ivory, used by the children of Prince Ferdinand ; and dozens of other cu- riosities, of which I could not stop now even to give the names. Next we turned our steps to the Church of the Cap- uchins, in the vaults of which are seventy coffins, con- taining different members of the imperial family. Some of these coffins are of bronze, and the rest are of lead, except that of Joseph I., which is of silver. A few are elaborately carved, while the remainder bear simply a cross and the name of the deceased. Three particularly interested me ; those of Maria Theresa and her husband, an immense sarcophagus of lead, adorned with statues as large as life, and bas-reliefs representing different cities in their dominions ; and the plain coffin of Maria Louisa and the Duke of Reichstadt, wife and son of Napoleon Bonaparte. All unused as I am to weeping over the woes of those unknown to me except by fame, I could not help my eyes filling with tears, as I stood by the coffin of the unfortunate Duke, and thought over the melancholy events of his short life. Born to a throne, he died a prisoner in deed, though not in name, and now he sleeps in this cold, damp vault, beside his mother and his mother's kindred, far away from the ashes of him whose proud heart once doted upon him with such o'er- powering love. To this cold, dark tomb came Maria Theresa, every Friday, for thirteen years, to weep and pray beside the coffin of her husband, and here, at last, she was borne, and laid by his side, one coffin sheltering both. Do you remember the childish enthusiasm with which, years 170 LETTERS. ago, I used to read every thing I could find about this celebrated Empress ? Imagine, then, how this enthusi- asm has been renewed, when all around me I see por- traits and relics of her, and, at last, have stood beside her very coffin. Once more the heavens opened, and the rain poured down, and we were glad to give up sight-seeing, and to come home for our dinner. This hotel here is con- ducted on quite a different plan from those we have known in the East, and I am told all the hotels through- out Germany are on the same plan. There is no " table d'hote," but every body orders from a " carte" what he wishes to eat, and is charged accordingly. Thus, if a person's wishes are moderate, he may live very cheaply in this country. We have a double bedded room, for which we pay two florins a day ; our breakfasts cost about two florins, and our dinners three. A florin is about forty-four cents our money, and thus it costs little more than three dollars a day for two persons, which is not dear for a first class hotel in a large city like Vienna. Candles are extra ; they cost us at the rate of seven or eight cents an evening ; but even with this addition, all our hotel expenses may be brought within three dollars and a quarter a day. I dwell upon these little particulars, because one hears so much about the cheapness of living in Austria, Germany, &c., though at the same time I ought to say, by having plainer and less expensive dishes than we do, one could live at a much cheaper rate. This morning, to our great joy, the sun shone out brightly, and we once more set off to view the lions of Vienna, and as it was necessary to have a clear sky for the purpose, we went up into the spire of St. Stephen's, LETTERS. 171 an account of which I have already given you. We next went to the Imperial Palace, but we could not gain admission ; we tried the Treasury, where the crown jewels are kept, and met with equal success, so we turned our steps to the imperial carriage house, where we saw carriages of almost every shape and size, from the small buggy in which the Emperor himself some- times drives, to the magnificent state coach, resplendent with gilding and carving and crimson velvet. There are about a dozen of these state coaches, and the gild- ing alone on them cost more than a half million dollars. What do you think of that ? Some of the sleighs were very beautiful ; one of them, shaped like a Roman car, and covered with gilding, Maria Theresa herself used to drive out in. The imperial establishment, in all, con- sists of six hundred carriages, quite sufficient, one would think, to satisfy the desires of one family. In Vienna, it is useless to attempt to see any thing between twelve and two ; every thing is shut up, for every body goes home to dinner. At first it seemed very strange to me to see so many of the shops closed, and for us, who do not dine till five or six, it is a very in- convenient arrangement, but we are obliged to submit to it. Finding we could see nothing more for two hours, and the weather being so very pleasant, we took a car- riage and went out to Schonbrunn, one of the summer palaces of the Emperor, two or three miles distant from the city. The palace stands within an immense park, diversi- fied with winding walks, beautiful lawns, clumps of trees, and plats of flowers. We were conducted over the palace by a veteran, who seemed to have the whole history of Austria at " his fingers' ends," and we could 172 LETT BBS. understand him quite easily, for it seemed to me his German was like broken English, when spoken by one having a hot potato in his mouth. As usual, I shall only tell you about the rooms that particularly interested me. In this palace, Napoleon took up his abode in 1805 and 1809, and in a large hall, he was standing talking with his Marshals, when a German student fired at him from without, and we saw the hole over the win- dow, made by the ball. Here were many things which spoke to us of Maria Theresa ; the room where she used to dine, waited upon by her ministers, the dishes being handed up through openings in the floor ; a screen and a stool worked by her own hands, and the furniture of one entire room, consisting of two sofas, two divans, (the four having ten pillows,) and four stools covered with silk, all from one dress of hers. When this was told me, I marvelled greatly at it, but when I saw in another room a portrait of the Empress, in a dress rising, from the stiffness of her hoops, almost to her ears, and swell- ing out to a prodigious rotundity, lengthened out, more- over, by an immense train, I no longer wondered that the silk of one dress could cover so many pieces of fur- niture. The walls of another room were covered with paint- ings representing the marriage of Joseph II. to the Duchess of Parma. All the figures portrayed there being portraits, dressed in the costumes of the day, we found them exceedingly interesting. One of the pic- tures represented the entrance of the bridal party into Vienna, in which there were eighty coaches, each drawn by six horses. What a display that must have been ! Another picture represented the family of Maria There- LETTERS. 173 sa, among whom were grouped thirteen Kings and Queens, all descended from her. A royal family, truly ! Nor was the unfortunate Maria Antoinette forgotten, for here we saw a series of beautiful paintings done by her, bearing her initials in one corner. Nor were these all that interested us. Here we saw the chamber occu- pied by Napoleon, and the bed on which he slept, where afterwards in 1832, (I think,) his son died. A writing desk stood in one corner of the room, and there Napoleon often sat and wrote, and there the Duke of Reichstadt wrote his last letter to his mother. How vividly these things brought before us the departed great ! I really don't know when I have been more interested than in visiting this palace. The mighty years that have rolled on since these royal personages passed away were as nothing, for I seemed to stand in their immediate presence, and to see them face to face. We spent an hour or two rambling through the gar- den, now pausing to see the myriads of gold fish in a pretty pond, and now stopping to notice a beautiful av- enue of stately trees, or to admire the velvet smooth- ness of the lawn. At the upper end of the garden is a little temple called the " Gloriette ;" and from the roof of it is one of the most lovely views the eye ever beheld. Around us lay the beautiful park, trees and flowers and green lawns, all blended so perfectly, and away stretched the rich country, till it was bounded by the distant hills on the one hand, and Vienna, with its countless roofs and beautiful spires, on the other. In another part of the garden are the wild animals, monkeys, birds, &c., and although we have seen larger collections in Paris and London, we stopped a while to look at these. 174 LETTERS. We dined at Schonbrunn, in a large garden attached to a caft) there, and while we sat under the trees, and ate an excellent dinner, a band was discoursing most eloquent music. How much I enjoyed this life in the open air, and for the thousandth time I said " why can- not our people at home have pleasures like these ?" After we came back to Vienna, we drove along the Prater, one of the fashionable places of resort for the Viennese. A broad road, bordered with trees, extends for miles beyond the city, and on either hand are green meadows, dotted beautifully with clumps of trees, where on Sundays and holidays, the people come in crowds to amuse themselves. Farther on is a deer park, and here we saw a number of those beautiful animals, browsing and gambolling about. We ended the day by a visit to one of the gardens near the Palace, where we saw hundreds of well dressed people sitting on benches and around little tables, the ladies having their work, and sewing and chatting, eating end drinking, they seemed the very picture of sensible enjoyment, while groups of children were playing games under the trees. In different parts of the garden bands of music were stationed, and sit- ting down before a little table, I ate an ice while J. drank a cup of tea, the strains of music falling delight- fully on our ears. But this is quite enough for one letter, so I will say " good night" to you. L E T T E E S . 175 LETTER LXIV. Copy of Last Supper. Monument of Archduchess Christina. Imperial Library. Cabinet of Minerals. Arsenal. Dance. Imperial Printing Office. Polytechnic Institution. Public Garden. VIENNA, Aug. 25th. MY DEAREST P. : All day out seeing " sights and wonders," and every evening and early every morning, jotting down what I see, I have not a particle of leisure. And yet, busy as I am, I enjoy every moment. But much as I delight in the pleasures of sight seeing, I assure you I shall not be sorry when, our journey over, I find myself on the way to my own loved land again. Strange as it may seem to you, I did not think half so much of my home, when far away in the East, as I do now, when I am comparatively so near it. Should I live to see all I love on earth once more, I defy the whole world to pro- duce a happier person than I shall be. But I must not run on in this way, or I shall quite forget where I am, so I will tell you what we have been seeing the last three days. In one of the churches in this city, is a beautiful picture in mosaic, done by the order of Napoleon, a copy of the celebrated " Last Supper" of Leonardo da Vinci. It is a master piece of art, worthy of the great original. In another church is the monument of the Arch- duchess Christina of Saxe Teschen, by Canova, per- fect in design and in execution. It consists of a pyra- mid of gray marble, about thirty feet high, placed against the wall of the church. An opening like a 176 LETTERS. door, in the centre of the pyramid, represents the en- trance into the vault, and before it stand two groups, in attitudes most striking and impressive. The first in advance, bears the urn containing the ashes of the deceased, and by her side walk two young girls, with torches in their hands. Ascending the steps of the pyr- amid appears the figure of Benevolence, supporting on her arm a man bent almost double with age and infirm- ities, his tattered garments hanging in disorder about his withered limbs. Beside him stands a little child in touch- ing attitude, his hands clasped before him, his head drooping, and his long robe flowing loosely around his feet. Never was there a lovelier contrast than that be- tween this tottering ol(fc man and the fair gentle child. It is old age and innocent childhood in perfection. On the other side of the entrance into the vault reposes a lion, and near him sits a figure representing despond- ing Genius, the wings drooping, the face full of sadness and grief. All these figures are as large as life, and admirably well done ; in short the monument may be considered as one of Canova's master pieces, and again and again I returned to look at it. In a chapel in the rear of this church, are the hearts, contained in silver urns, of the different members of the Imperial family of Austria, while their bodies repose in the vaults of the Capuchin church. Of course we made another effort to visit the Palace, and to see the crown jewels, but still without success, so we turned our steps towards the Imperial library, which contains four hundred thousand volumes and sixteen thousand manuscripts. Among these last, we found many interesting relics of olden times, extending from the fourth to the sixteenth century, among which LETTERS. 177 were the prayer book in gold letters, of Charlemagne ; a Greek testament of the thirteenth century, collated by Erasmus, Tasso's " Jerusalem delivered," in his own hand-writing ; a roll of Mexican hieroglyphics, pre- sented to Charles V. by Cortez, and a number of other things interesting to look at, but perhaps a great deal of the interest would be lost in narration, so I will not trouble you any further on this subject. Let me see, where did we go next ? Oh, to the cabi- net of minerals, and here I can assure you I was deeply interested, though my own little collection at home suffered in comparison with this extensive one. Here marbles, crystals, quartz, precious stones, petri- factions, &c., shone in all their wealth of beauty and of richness, and I sighed more than once to think my lim- ited means could not procure some similar specimens. Here too, we saw a large collection of meteoric stones, which have fallen from the heavens in different parts of the globe. One immense piece, weighing seventy-one pounds fell in 1751 near Agram. This is no hoax, for it was actually seen to fall by some peasants. A bou- quet of flowers, composed of precious stones, belong- ing to Maria Theresa, attracted a good deal of atten- tion, both from its richness, and because it belonged to her. A long walk brought us to the Imperial arsenal, and here we saw a large collection of ancient armor, and guns and pistols to the amount of three hundred and fifty thousand, arranged in fantastic forms ; sometimes representing the arms of Austria, at others, different parts of fortifications,