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 PICTURESQTTE NEAV GUINEA.
 
 Plate I. 
 MOTU WATER CARRIER, PORT MORESBY. 
 
 Fro)dis^iece.
 
 PICTUKESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 WITH AN HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION AND 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTERS 
 
 OX THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PAPUANS; 
 
 ACCOMPANIED WITH 
 
 FIFTY FULL-PAGE AUTO TYPE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 FROM xi-:gatives of portraits from life and 
 
 GROUPS AND LANDSCAPES FROM NATURE. 
 BY 
 
 J. W. LIXDT, F.R.G.S. 
 
 L O N 1) O \ : 
 LONGMANS, GREEN, AM) CO. 
 
 1887. 
 [All liij/ifs n'served.}
 
 CHISWICK PRF.SS : — C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS CUURT, 
 CHANCERY LANE.
 
 .J)'^ 
 
 
 ?3 c t) I r a t f t) 
 
 BY PERMISSION WITH PROFOUNDEST RESPECT 
 TO 
 
 HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 
 
 BY 
 
 J. W. LINDT, 
 
 IN THE YEAR OF HEK MAJESTy's JUBILEE, 
 1887. 
 
 162634?
 
 Plate II. 
 POirrKAlT OF AUTHOR, J. W. LINDT, F.R.G.S. 
 
 To face Preface.
 
 P R E F A C E. 
 
 |,WA,^"^.;OR years past, when perusing the account of explorino- 
 ^^^^ expeditions setting out for some country comparatively 
 'V^J iniknown, I always noticed with a pang of disappointment 
 ^^ :^^J^'^Jil that, however carefully the scientific staff was chosen, it 
 was, as a rule, considered sufficient to supply one of the members -with 
 a mahogany camera, lens, and chemicals to take pictures, the dealer fui-- 
 nishing these articles generally initiating the purchaser for a cou[)le or 
 three hours' time into the secrets and tricks of the " dark art," or when 
 funds were too limited to purchase instruments, it was taken for granted 
 that enough talent existed among the members to make rough sketches, 
 Avhicli would afterwards be " worked up " for the purpose of illustrating 
 [)erhaps a very important report. 
 
 Sir Samuel Baker remarks, in the Appendix to one of his "Works, 
 tliat a photographer should accompany every exploring expedition. The 
 only one I ever heard of being furnished with that connnodity wns 
 11. M.S. "Challenger," on her scientific cruise round the world, but 1 
 remember readhig in the " Photographic News " the complaint of a 
 gentleman, that so many years luid already passed, and still there was no 
 sign of the " Challenger " photographs ever becoming accessible to the 
 ])ublic. 
 
 llow this is, or why it should be so, is dilUcult to tell, but as yet no 
 book of travel, entirely illustrated by artistic views and portraits taken
 
 ,.i,i PRE PACK. 
 
 ,r,nrt, iVoin n;ituiv, has come uii<lcr my notice. According to my belief, 
 there ran he l)ut one reason for it, and thai is thi; difficulties encountered 
 I,, r,i,<l a .•omi.rtent artist jdiotographcr williii.^' to join an expedition are 
 ir,-,;,t.r than those necessary to secure the services of someone who Ccan 
 sketcli, and hence artistic pliotography, the legitimate and proper means 
 to show friends at home what tliese foreign lands and their inhabitants 
 really look like, is set aside for drawings, cither partly or purely 
 imaginary.' 
 
 l-]v(r since I lirst passed through Torres Straits in September, 1868, 
 1 conceived an ardent desire to become personally acquainted Avith those 
 mystenous shores of Papua and their savage inhabitants. I travelled 
 tliis route on board a Dutch sailing vessel, and weird indeed were the 
 tales that circulated among the crew concerning the land whose towering 
 mountain ranges were dimly visible on our northern horizon. But years 
 passed by, and time had almost effaced the impression, until I made the 
 ac<[uaintance of Signor L. M. D'Albertis, the intrepid Italian, who ex- 
 l)lored the Fly River higher up than anyone has ventured since. This 
 occurred in 1873. Signor D'Albertis visited the Clarence River, in New 
 South AVales, where I lived for many years, by way of recruiting his 
 health after his voyages to N. W. New Guinea. How I fretted that 
 circumstances prevented me from accompanying him on his first trip in 
 the " Xewa," and how 1 envied young Wilcox (the son of a well known 
 Naturalist residing on the Clarence) being engaged as assistant collector, 
 
 ' Tho\ii,'h this book was -wrlttou and the pictures taken under this impression, I 
 found, on arrival in Enpjhmd, that several works of travel illustrated by photograj^hy 
 liave been puldished. I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. John Thomson, F.E.G.S., 
 of Grosvenor Street, who showed me liis magnificent and interesting work on "China 
 and its Peoples." I examined also Sir Lepel Griffin's clever work, " Famous Monu- 
 ments of Central India," and a little book on Tahita, by Lady Brassey, ably illustrated 
 by Col. H. Stuart-Wortley. The illustrations in these Works consist without exception 
 of photographs printed in autotype, and the inspection of these books and their piotui'es 
 at once put nie face to face with the countries described and then' inhabitants, far more 
 vividly than could works illustrated by wood engravings, where, for truth, the reader 
 depends firstly on the individual conception of the artist, and secondly on the skill of 
 the engraver.
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 no one knows but myself. Again some years elapsed, and when next I 
 met D' Albertis it was at Melbourne, in 1878. His personal reminiscences, 
 and subsequently the reading of liis interesting work, powerfully 
 awakened my desire again for a trip to New Guinea. But circumstances 
 were still adverse, and it was only when rumours of annexation became 
 rife, and the Rev. Mr. Lawes visited Melbourne early in 1885, that the 
 prospect of visiting the land of my dreams began to assume a more 
 tangible form. 
 
 Mr. Lawes, hearing me speak so enthusiastically about my long 
 cherished desire, assured me of his readiness to assist, and of hospitality, 
 should I come to Port Moresby. The reverend gentleman's kindness 
 and goodwill were amply proved, as my narrative will show, but be it 
 here recorded, with due deference, I believe he doubted at that time the 
 likeUhood of ever seeing me sit at his table in the broad verandah of the 
 mission house, listening to Mr. H. 0. Forbes' reminiscences of the 
 interior of Sumatra (the exhumation and ultimate fate of " that Kubu 
 woman " to wit). 
 
 A month or so after Mr. Lawes' departure from Australia, the papers 
 reported the intelligence that Sir Peter Scratchley had been appointed 
 High Commissioner for the Protectorate of Xew Guinea, and that a 
 properly equipped expedition was to be sent to investigate the newly 
 acquired territory. Now or never was my chance. Colonel F. T. Sar- 
 good kindly introduced me to Sir Peter, I offered to accompany the 
 expedition as a volunteer, finding myself in every requisite, and giving 
 copies of the pictures I should succeed in taking in return for my 
 passage and the necessary facilities to develop and finish my negatives on 
 board. 
 
 My offer was accepted by Sir Peter, and on July loth, 1885, I 
 received notice to join the " Governor Blackall," tlie vessel selected for 
 the expedition, then lying in Sydnc}' Ilarljour. 
 
 The command of the "Governor Blackall" was entrusted to Captain 
 T. A. Lake, the senior captain of the A. S. N. Company's fleet, who, 
 throughout the voyage, sustained his high character as a skilful navigator 
 among coral reels, and proved himself a man of tact and decision, 
 
 B
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 qualities 1 lint, w( IT more lli:iii oiin; jMit to the test during our cruise. 
 I'.eloru liiuiichin.L,^ into the duseriptioii ol" the expedition, I wish to record 
 liere my (k-ep sense ol" ohli.i^^iition to the gentlemen who kindly aided in 
 the production of tliis Work Ijy contributing chapters of valuable infor- 
 mation. In the fu'st place my thanks are due to the Rev. James Chalmers, 
 who kindly continued the thread of the narrative, and brought it to a 
 conclusion, ^\ lun I was obliged to leave the expedition at Samarai (Dinner 
 Island) about a month before the lamented death of Sir Peter Scratchley. 
 1 am also greatly indebted ibr his interesting paper on " The Manners 
 and customs of the Papuans." On that subject no better source of infor- 
 mation than him could be found. To Mr. G. S. Fort I offer my best 
 thanks lor presenting me with his Official Report of the Expedition. 
 The same recognition is due to Sir Edward Strickland, the President of 
 the Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, for the permission to em- 
 body in my journal the interesting account of the " Bonito " Expedi- 
 tion, undertaken under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society 
 almost simultaneously with ours. My appeal to Mr. Edelfeld, now ex- 
 ploring in Motu Motu, met with a ready response from that gentleman in 
 the shape of travelling experiences in the neighbourhood of Mount Yule. 
 Last, but not least, I have to thank my learned countryman and 
 friend. Sir Ferdinand Baron Yon Midler, the eminent Botanist, for the 
 promise of a valuable essay from his pen, although, unhappily, the pres- 
 sure of departmental work on his hands is at present so severe that bis 
 contribution cannot be ready for this, the first edition of my book ; and 
 I cannot conclude without acknowledging my indebtedness to Commander 
 II. Field, of H. M. Surveying Schooner " Dart," and to his able officers, 
 Lieutenants Messum and Dawson, not forgetting Dr. Luther, who, with 
 their unitbrm kindness and courtesy, made my return journey on board 
 that vessel a perfect pleasure trip. 
 
 J. AY. LiNDT. 
 
 Melbourne, 1887. 
 
 1^-S- — ^^^ith regard to the publication of this Work much credit is due 
 to Mr. Bird, of the Autotype Company. Arriving as I did, a stranger in
 
 PREFACE. xi 
 
 London, this gentleman materially lightened my labours by introducino- 
 me to Messrs. Longmans, the publishers, and contributing his experience 
 freely. My thanks are also due to Mr. Sawyer and his clever staff, for 
 the masterly reproduction of my pictures, ui)on which the success of the 
 book mainly depends.
 
 Preface 
 
 CON r E N T S. 
 
 PACE 
 
 vii 
 
 CHAPTER I. — Historical Account of New Guinea. 
 
 Geographical Positions — First Discoveries — First Explorers — The Missionaries — 
 Dutch Settlement — English Surveys of the Coast — Attempts of Australian 
 Settlement — Annexation by Queensland — Eefusal of Imperial Sanction — 
 Australian Colonists Remonstrate — Proposal of a British Protectorate — 
 Annexation by Great Britain — Dissatisfaction of the Colonists — Announce- 
 ment of German Occupation — Arrival of Sir Peter Scratchley — His first Pro- 
 ceedings and Premature Death — Appointment of a Successor — The German 
 Settlement ............. 
 
 CHAPTER II.— From Sydney to New Guinea. 
 
 Colonists Demand Annexation of New Guinea — Lord Derby's Vacillation — 
 Appointment of Sir Peter Scratchley as High Commissiuner — His Arrival 
 and first Proceedings — Departure from Sydney — Pathetic Parting of the 
 Commissioner and his Family — A Sabbath Day on Board — Northwards to 
 Brisbane — Description of the " Governor Blackall " — Music hath Charms to 
 soothe the hardy Seaman's breast — An Eminent Naturalist — Gentle Savages — 
 Departure from Brisbane — A New Patent Log — The Tragedy of Percy 
 Island — A Strange Ocean Product — An Island Paradise — An Apron Signal 
 — Townsville — Meeting with a " Vagabond " — Cooktown — The Tragedy of 
 Lizard Island — New Guinea in Sight ........ 
 
 11 
 
 CHAPTER III.— First Landing in New Guinea. 
 
 First View of Papua — Breakers Ahead — Haven of Safety reached — First Welcome 
 — The Missionary and his Wife — Excursion to Rano Falls planned — Native 
 Villages on the Littoral — Frolicsome Young Savages — A Degraded Rate —
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 A 'riilic of r<»tters — A Strange Flotilla — Preparations for Excursion — A 
 Christian Sal>bath in a Savage Land — Elevating Influence of Christianity — 
 A Photogra])li('r'.s Inipedinienta — First Landing — Religious Service in the 
 Motu Language — "Gniuny"the Prime Minister — A Start resolved on — A 
 Guide and Carriers engaged — Also a Native Head Cook . . . .27 
 
 CHAPTER rV. — First Excursion in New Guinea. 
 
 Orders to March — Heavy Travelling — Tropical Creek — Sure-footed Mountain 
 Steeds — Native Hunting Camp — Luncheon in the Forest — Smoking the Bau 
 Bau — Good Country for Horse-breeding — Koiari Kangaroo-hunting — The 
 Hunter's Feast — The Koiari Ti-ibe — Splendid Natural Panorama — Morrison's 
 Explorations — Camp for the Night — Perilous Journeying — The Alligators' 
 Haunt — Night in the Papuan Forest — Frightening the Devil — Fears of 
 Danger from Natives dispelled — Morning in the Forest — A Purpose aban- 
 doned — Strike for a Koiai'i Village — Savage Gounnands — Steep Mountain 
 Ascent — Magnificent Mountain Scenery — A Koiari Welcome — A Mountain 
 Village — Dwellings on the Tree-tops — A Koiari Chief — Photographer in 
 Koiai'i — Hospitable Offer — A Koiari Household — Great White Chief — Buying 
 a Pig — A Koiari Interior — A Papuan Meal — Conference of Chiefs — Papuan 
 Etiquette — A Tribal Feud — Uncomfortable Night — Superb Moimtain Views 
 — The Photographer in a Koiari Village — Return to the Port — A Ruined 
 Village — Native Remains — Encounter Mr. Forbes — Missionary Hospitality . 32 
 
 CHAPTER V. — Excursion up the Aroa River. 
 
 Site Fixed for Government House and Buildings — Bootless Inlet — Lakatoi Trading 
 Vessels — Native Regatta — Quit Port Moresby for Redscar Bay — Landing of 
 the Party — The Mouth of the Aroa — Ascent of the Stream — Reflections on 
 Land-tenure — Visit to Ukaukana Village — Interview with the Head Chief of 
 Kabadc — Exchange of Presents — Adventures returning to Camp — Night 
 Alarms — The Vari Vara Islands — Back to Port Moresby .... 46 
 
 CHAPTER VI.— A Coasting Expedition. 
 
 Arrival of H.M.S. " Raven " — Trade Winds — Site for Government Stores — Inland 
 Party organized — Arrival off Tupuselei — Coast Scenery — A Papuan Venice — 
 Sir Peter Scratchley's Visit to Padiri — Sickness among the Party — A Native 
 Feud — Attack apprehended — Kapa Kapa — A Group of Mourners — Mangoes 
 — Birds of Paradise — A Palaver — Continuation of the Vovage ... 55
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XV 
 
 CHAPTER Vn.— An Expedition Inland. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Walk from Hula to Kalo — Cocoanut Groves — Native Diseases — Mortality — 
 History of the Reprisals for Murdering — Price of a Wife — Matrimonial 
 Customs — The Author leaves Kalo — Crossing a River — Arriving at Hood 
 Lagoon — Rejoin the Ship .......... 04 
 
 CHAPTER Vin.— Native Villages. 
 
 Scenery at the Hood Lagoon — Kerepimu, Hula — Fracas between the Ship's 
 Company and Natives — Beneficial Results — Start for Aroma — A Native Chief 
 as Passenger — Parimata — Moaj)a — The Aroma District — Departure for Stacey 
 Island — The Scenery Described ......... 
 
 CHAPTER IX.— South Cape. 
 
 Bertha Lagoon — Garihi — Ascent of the Peak — East Shores of the Lagoon — 
 Under Way — The Brumer Group — Rendezvous at Dinner Island — Murder 
 of Captain Miller — Investigations at Teste Island ..... 
 
 CHAPTER X. — Searches for Murderers. 
 
 Return to Dinner Island — Rendezvous with H.M.S. " Diamond " and " Raven " — 
 Excursion to Heath Island — Departure for Nonnanby Island — Diaveri — An 
 Exciting Chase — Fruitless Negotiations — Capture of an Alleged Murderer — 
 A Mistake and its Rectification — The Real Simou Pure — His Adventures in 
 Sydney— Return of the Author in H.M.S. " Dart " 85 
 
 CHAPTER XL— Mr. Chalmers' Narrative. 
 
 Visit to Killerton Islands — The Juliade Islands — Reprisals for the Murder of 
 Cajitain and Mrs. Webb — Colomljier Point — Unsuccessful Attempt to Com- 
 municate with Natives — Hoisting the Union Jack at Moapa — Inland Excursion 
 to Koiari Villages — Ascent of Mount Variata — Meet Mr. Forbes — Sogeri — 
 Mr. Forbes' Station — Return to Port Moresby and Hula — Bentley Bay — 
 Ascent of Mount Killerton — Illness of Sir Peter Scratchley — Character of 
 the Coast — The Jal)beriug Islands — From Colling\sood Bay to Cape Nelson 
 — Mountains and Harbours — Departure of the " Governor Blackall " for 
 Australia — Illness of Sir Peter Scratchlcv — His Dt>atli — His Fiim-ral . 95
 
 xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. — Two Nkw Guinea Stories by James Chalmers, F.R.G.S. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. Voiiia uf Maiva— II. The Kuitapu Tribe and their Witclicraft . . .106 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. — History and Description op Pottery Trade. 
 A Papuan " Enoch Ardon," by James Chalmers, F.R.G.S 118 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. — Travels in the Neighbourhood of Mount Yule, 
 Motu Motu and Customs of the People, by E. G. Edelpeld, M.R.G.S. . . 126 
 
 APPENDIX I.— British New Guinea. 
 
 Report on British New Guinea, from Data and Notes by the Late Sir Peter 
 Scratchley, Her Majesty's Special Commissioner, by Mr. G, Seymour 
 Fort. Finnte Secretary to the late Sir Peter Scratchley, R.E., K.C.M.G. 135 
 
 APPENDIX n.— "The Bonito" Expedition. 
 
 Captain Evcrill's Report of the Royal Geographical Society's Expedition to the 
 
 " Fly, Strickland, Ser\dce, and Alice Rivers " 167 
 
 APPENDIX III.— German New Guinea Exploration . . 189
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PLATE 
 
 1. Motu Water Carrier, Port Moresby 
 
 2. Portrait of Aiatlior, J. W. Linclt, F.E.G.S. 
 
 3. Portraits of the Eevs. S. McFarlane, G. W. Lawes, and James Chambers 
 
 4. "The Start." Sir Peter Scratchley, his Staff and Party of Friends, 
 
 S.S. " Governor Blackall " . 
 
 5. Women making Pottery 
 Loading Lakatoi, Port Moresby 
 
 6. Lakatoi, or Motu Trading Vessel, under Sail 
 
 7. Lakatoi near Elevala Island . 
 Elevala Island, from Mission Station 
 
 8. Koiari Chiefs ..... 
 
 9. The Haunt of the Alligator, Laloki Eiver 
 
 10. Eoasting Yams for Breakfast, Badeba Creek 
 
 11. Near the Camp, Laloki Eiver 
 
 12. Sadiira Makara, Koiari Village near Bootless Inlet 
 
 13. The Village Pet at Sadara Makara 
 
 14. Tree-house, Koiari Village 
 
 15. Motu Girls, Port Moresby, also Paro Paro Apple Tree 
 
 16. Sir Peter Scratchley 's Camp, near Mouth of Aroa Eiver, Eedscar Bay 
 
 17. Native House at Vanuabada, Kabade District 
 
 18. Native Teachers, Kabade District . 
 
 19. Village of Koilapu, Port Moi'osby . 
 
 20. At Low Water, Native Houses at Koilapu 
 
 21. H. 0. Forbes and Party of Malays, also Captain Musgravc and INIr. Lawes 
 
 22. Tupuselei (Marine Village) from the Shore . 
 
 23. The Chief's House, Marino Village of Tupuselei 
 
 24. Women of Tupuselei going for Water . 
 
 25. Mangrove Scrub, near Kaele .... 
 
 C 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 to face Preface 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 12 
 12 
 14 
 16 
 16 
 20 
 22 
 24 
 28 
 30 
 32 
 36 
 38 
 40 
 44 
 46 
 48 
 52 
 54 
 56 
 60 
 62 
 64
 
 xviii LTST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PLATK 
 
 20. (Jroui) of Natives at Kapa Kajia, central figures in mourning 
 
 27. The Kalo Creek, Kapa, Kapa District 
 
 28. New CJuinea Trophy, Wi'ai)ons and Implements 
 
 2}). Native House at the Village of Kaniali 
 
 30. The Chief's Spire House at Kalo (in course of re-construction) 
 
 31. Mourners and Dead-house at Kalo ....... 
 
 32. Village Scene at Kalo, with Teacher and Christian Church 
 
 33. Kerepunu Women at the Market Place of Kalo 
 
 34. Village Scene at Moapa, Aroma District ...... 
 
 35. Native Houses and Graves at Suau, Stacey Island ..... 
 
 36. Garihi Village, Bei-tha Lagoon, South Cape 
 
 37. Boating Scene, Bertha Lagoon and Cloudy Mountains in the Distance . 
 
 38. Magiri Village, Bertha Lagoon, South Cape 
 
 39. Group and Native House, Mairy Pass, Mainland of New Guinea in 
 
 the Distance ........... 
 
 40. Young Cocoanut Trees on Stacey Island, Farm Peak in the Distance 
 
 41. Platform for Dead Bodies, South Cape, New Guinea .... 
 
 42. Naria Village, South Cape, New Guinea 
 
 43. On the Beach, Teste Island, Kissack's trading Canoe, Bell Eock and 
 
 Cliffy Island in the Distance ........ 
 
 44. Paddles, Native Ornaments, and Implements from the Neighbourhood 
 
 of Dinner Island and China Straits ....... 
 
 45. Village at Stade Island (Engineer Groui^) ...... 
 
 46. The Voyage Homeward, on board H.M.S. "Dart" (on the Job) 
 
 47. "The End," Sir Peter Scratchley's Catafalque, on board S.S. "Governor 
 
 Blackall" 
 
 48. The Honourable John Douglas, C.M.G., Sir Peter Scratchley's Successor 
 
 Captain T. A. Lake, Senior Captain of the A.S.N. Company's Fleet, and 
 Commander of the S.S. " Governor Blackall" (on one Plate) 
 
 49. Sir Peter Scratchley, K.C.M.G., and Mr. G. Seymour Fort, Private Secretary 
 
 (on one Plate) ........... 
 
 50. Fly River Explorers, Signer Luigi Maria D'Albertis, and Captain 
 
 H. C. Everill (on one Plate) 
 
 PAGE 
 68 
 
 70 
 
 72 
 76 
 78 
 80 
 84 
 86 
 88 
 92 
 94 
 96 
 100 
 
 102 
 104 
 
 108 
 110 
 
 112 
 
 116 
 118 
 120 
 
 124 
 
 126 
 136 
 168
 
 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 CHAPTER L 
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Geographical Position — First Discoveries — First Explorers — The Missionaries — 
 Dutch Settlement — English Surveys of the Coasts — Attempts of Australian Settlement 
 — Annexation by Queensland — Refusal of Imperial Sanction — Australian Colonists 
 remonstrate — Proposal of a British Protectorate — Annexation by Great Britain — Dis- 
 satisfaction of the Colonists — Announcement of German Occupation — Arrival of Sir 
 Peter Scratchley — His first Proceedings and Premature Death — A])pointment of a 
 Successor — The German Settlement. 
 
 Geographical Position. 
 ^EW GUINEA, the latest addition to the magnificent 
 Colonial empire now owned by Great Britain, is the largest 
 island on our globe, counting Australia as a sixth con- 
 tinent. It lies to the north of Australia, from wliich it is 
 separated by a narrow strait named after Torres, a Spanish navigator, 
 who, in 1606, sailed through it on his way from the New Hebrides to 
 the Philippine Islands. 
 
 First Discoverers. — It is dou])tful whether an}thing rchiting to tliis 
 large island was known to the European world before the time of 
 Columbus. No mention of it is found in the works of any of tlie 
 ancient geographers. The earliest reference to it that can be traced is 
 given in the narrative of their voyages and adventures left l)y two 
 Portuguese navigators, Francisco Sorrani and Antonio d'Abriu, who
 
 2 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ill 1511 saw fiTul (l{!scri])0(l a ])ortion of the south-west coast. In the 
 jil)S('iice of any fuller iiiibrmalion on the suhjeet, the honour of dis- 
 covering New Guinea falls to these two adventurers. Fifteen years 
 later another Portuguese riavioator, Don Jorges Menenes, was voyaging 
 ii-oni M;d;i(c;i to ihc Moltiecns, iind encountering a storm, was driven 
 out of his course to the eastward, and came upon the great island, 
 where, iiiiding a safe and convenient harbour, he remained for a month 
 to refit his shattered vessel. He named the island Papua, a Malayan 
 expression for black or curly hair, which is a very marked feature of the 
 native population. Under that name New Guinea is shown on a chart 
 published in Venice in 1554. Another Portuguese mariner visited the 
 island in 1528, and gave it the high sounding title of tlie Isla del Oro, 
 or Island of Gold, from a belief that it abounded in the precious metals. 
 Put the honour of giving the island the name it will bear permanently 
 falls to Inigo de Retez, a Spanish sailor, who in 1545 sailed 250 miles 
 along the northern coasts, and, thinking that he saw in the appearance 
 of the country a resemblance to the Guinea coast on the west of Africa, 
 called it Nueva Guinea. The next we hear of the place is an account 
 given by Torres of the southern portion and its inhabitants, whom he 
 describes as being "dark in colour, naked except having some clothing 
 round the middle, and armed with clubs and darts ornamented with 
 tufts of feathers." Schouten, a Dutch navigator, discovered some 
 volcanoes in the island in 1616. Twenty-seven years later Abel Janez 
 Tasman, the greatest of the Dutch navigators and the discoverer of 
 Tasmania (which he named Van Dieman's Land) and of New Zealand, 
 visited and minutely examined a portion of the west coast. On the 
 New Year's Day of the year 1700, William Dampier, the prince of 
 English maritime adventurers, voyaging in quest of new lands, sighted 
 New Guinea, and never left it until he had sailed completely round it, 
 although his vessel (named the "Roebuck") was both old and leak}'. 
 His account of the place and people is very racily written, and was 
 probably read by De Foe before he wrote " Robinson Crusoe." " The 
 natives," he says, " are very black ; their short hair is dyed of various 
 colours — red, white, and yellow: they have broad, round faces with
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 3 
 
 great bottle-noses, yet agreeable enough, except that they disfigure 
 themselves by painting and wearing great things through their noses, as 
 big as a man's thumb and about four inclies long. They have also great 
 holes in their ears, wherein they stuff such ornaments as in their 
 noses." The illustrious navigator, Cook, rediscovered Torres Strait in 
 1772, and added much to the previous knowledge of the island and its 
 inhabitants. In 1828 the Dutch took possession of the western portion 
 and attempted to make a settlement there, but failed. In 1843 Captain 
 Blackwood, in H.M.S. " Fly," discovered the river, which he named 
 after his ship. Subsequently, Captain Owen Stanley, in the " Rattle- 
 snake," made a rough survey of a great portion of the coast, and in 1873 
 Captain Moresby, in the " Basilisk," completed our knowledge of the 
 external form and dimensions of Xew Guinea. 
 
 First Explorers. — Up till very recently the only information possessed 
 by the civilised world respecting the island and its inhabitants amounted 
 to little more than that the people were negroes, and that beautiful birds 
 of paradise were to be found there. Alfred Wallace, the distinguished 
 naturalist, was the first European that gave the world a larger know- 
 ledge of the native population and the natural productions. After him 
 came Dr. Mickluoho Maclay, in 1871. He lived with the natives for 
 fifteen months, enduring the severest privations and risking liis life in 
 the cause of science But amongst the explorers of New Guinea pre- 
 eminence must be given to Signor D'Albertis, who, in 1872, in company 
 with his fellow-countryman. Dr. Beccari, penetrated into the interior in 
 many directions, and made himself intimately acquainted with the names 
 and habits of the natives. At various subsequent times Signor 
 D'Albertis continued his explorations and observations, the results of 
 which he has given to the world in two handsome volumes beautifully 
 illustrated. This distinguished Itahan is a born explorer. lie is 
 possessed with the true spirit of martyrdom in the cause of science. 
 His pluck, perseverance and patience, seem only to grow with the diffi- 
 culties he has to encounter, and the obstacles he has to overthrow. His 
 personal privations and sufferings wring from him no complaints; and he 
 merely records them in his simple matter-of-fact manner as among the
 
 4 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 facts and incidents of the time, and as affording an insight into the ideas 
 and ways of the natives in view of such circumstances. A German 
 explorer, Dr. A. J>. Meyer, made some important additions to our know- 
 ledge of the country by explorations, vigorously prosecuted in 1873. 
 Dr. Beccari, alone, went on an expedition into the interior in 1875, and 
 returned with a large and valuable collection of specimens of the flora 
 and fauna of the island. 
 
 The Missionaries. — Those active pioneers of civiUsation, the English 
 missionaries, have not neglected New Guinea ; but their work amongst 
 the natives has been seriously hindered by the unhealthiness of the 
 country and climate. The Rev. S. McFarlane was appointed by the 
 Directors of the London Missionary Society to establish a mission in the 
 island in 1870. With him was associated the Rev. Mr. Murray; and 
 subsequently the Rev. W. G. Lawes and the Rev. James Chalmers 
 joined the mission. The labours of these gentlemen amongst the native 
 population have been of a quite heroic kind ; and to them is mainly due 
 the merit of taking possession of the country for the British people. At 
 the hourly risk of their lives they have carried on their apostolic 
 labours, facing a thousand dangers, overcoming a thousand difficulties, 
 unwearied in their high purpose of civilising and Christianising this 
 savage people. They have established primary school training institu- 
 tions, for native teachers, schools for teaching the industrial arts, 
 mission stations at many points along the coast, and churches with regu- 
 lar congregations and enrolled members. A real triumph of missionary 
 achievement was witnessed at the mission station on Murray Island on 
 the 14th May, 1885, when the 15-ton mission yacht, Mar}^, was launched 
 from the yard of the Papuan industrial school, amid great feasting and 
 rejoicing. The wood for the little vessel had been cut, and the building 
 of it was executed by the hands of the pupils of the school under the 
 supervision of the Rev. Mr. McFarlane. The yacht is intended for 
 missionary work in and about the Fly River. 
 
 Dutch Settleme7it. — So far as is known, the Dutch, as already stated, 
 were the first European nation to attempt settlement in New Guniea. 
 In 1828 Captain Steenboom, in the ship "Triton," landed on the island
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 5 
 
 and took possession in the name of the Dutch Government of the terri- 
 tory extending from the 141st parallel of E. longitude westward to the 
 sea. He built a fort at a place he called Triton Bay, on the N.W. coast, 
 the scenery around which was very beautiful. But (as a Dutch gentle- 
 man at Macassar told Wallace) the officer left in charge of the settlement, 
 finding the life there insufferably monotonous, killed the cattle and 
 other live stock, and reported that they had perished through the un- 
 healthiness of the place, and that, besides, the natives were very fierce 
 and intractable. The settlement at Triton Bay was on this account 
 abandoned. Seven years later another Dutch commander surveyed 
 what was then called the Dourga River, and found it to be a strait, 
 ninety miles long, dividing Frederic Henry Island from the mainland. 
 The Dutch still hold nominal possession of the territory proclaimed by 
 Captain Steenboom, but practically the acquisition is of no value to 
 them. 
 
 English Surveys of the Coast. — The southern shores of New Guinea 
 have been mostly surveyed by British ships, Cai)tain Blackwood, in 
 II.M.S. " Fly," discovered in 1843 the river which he named after his 
 ship. The next English commander that surveyed part of Xew Guinea 
 was Captain Owen Stanley, who, in 1847, in li.M.S. "Rattlesnake," 
 sketched a large extent of the coast and marked off a number of 
 mountains, one of which, called after him, is over 13,000 feet high. 
 In 1873 Captain Moresby, in the "Basilisk" discovered and named 
 Port Moresby, and determined the form of the south-eastern extremity 
 of the island. Hoisting the Queen's flag he took possession in her 
 Majesty's name, by right of discovery, of Moresby Island and the 
 surrounding archipelago. 
 
 Attempts at Australian Settlement. — The Australian colonists have 
 not been wholly indifferent to the probable advantages to be gained 
 from effecting a settlement in New Guinea. During the past twenty 
 years several expeditions have been either planned or partially executed 
 with that object, and the Imperial Government has been again and 
 again asked to take action for the establishment of a British occujKition 
 of the territory. To these requests unfavourable answers were given,
 
 6 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 although it was known at the Colonial Office that so long back as 1793 
 the island had been formally annexed to Great Britain. In that year, 
 two commanders in the service of the East India Company, William 
 Bampton, blaster of the " Ilormuzcer," and Matthew B. Alt, Master of 
 the " Chesterfield," were exploring in these waters ; and on the 10th July 
 an armed party of forty-four men from the two vessels, under the com- 
 mand of Dell, chief mate of the " Hormuzeer," landed on Darnley Island 
 in Torres Strait, and took possession of that island and the neighbouring 
 island of New Guinea in the name of His Majesty King George the 
 Third. All the formalities customary on such occasions — hoisting the 
 union jack, reading the proclamation, and firing a volley — were duly 
 observed on this occasion. Nevertheless, it was not until nearly a 
 century had elapsed that the imperial authorities at Downing Street 
 condescended to take notice of the fact that there was such a place as 
 New Guinea in existence. 
 
 Annexation by Queensland.— T\\q fact was forced upon their attention 
 by the spirited action of the Premier of Queensland, Sir Thomas 
 Mcllwraith, who, weary of the rebuffs repeatedly inflicted on the 
 Australian colonists by the colonial office in regard to this matter, 
 patriotically resolved upon annexing New Guinea on his own authority. 
 Accordingly he instructed Mr. H. M. Chester, at that time police- 
 magistrate at Thursday Island, to proceed to the great island, and take 
 possession in the name of Her Majesty the Queen, of all that portion of 
 it which was not claimed by the Netherlands Government. In obedience 
 to these instructions Mr. Chester sailed for New Guinea; and, on the 
 4th April, 1883, he performed the ceremony of formal annexation of all 
 that part of the territory lying between the 141st and the 155th meri- 
 dians of east longitude. These facts were duly reported to the Imperial 
 authorities, and strong representations were made to them by the 
 Governments of the United Colonies to induce them to endorse with 
 their approval the action of the Queensland Premier. 
 
 Befusal of Imperial Sanction. — But Lord Derby, who then held rule 
 in the Colonial Office, was adverse. He addressed a despatch to the 
 officer administering the Government of Queensland, Sir A. H. Palmer,
 
 Plate III. 
 PORTRAITS OF THE MISSIONAPJES. 
 
 REV. S. M^FARLANE {Left). 
 
 REV. G. W. LA WES {Centre). 
 
 REV. JAMES CHALMERS {liirjht). 
 
 Befereiice page i.
 
 ^npi*- ^^
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 7 
 
 formally refusing to sanction the act of annexation. At this time it "was 
 well known that Germany was meditating the project of taking posses- 
 sion of a part, or the whole of Xew Guinea; and yet Lord Derby altirmed 
 that there appeared to be no reason for supposing that any Foreign 
 Power harboured such a design. His lordship objected, moreover, to 
 the unnecessarily vast extent, as he deemed it, of the territory annexed 
 by Mr. Chester. The utmost that his lordship would concede was that 
 possibly a protectorate might be established over the coast tribes, under 
 the direction of the High Commission for the Western Pacific, but abso- 
 lute annexation was quite out of the question. 
 
 Australian Colonists remonstrate. — This fresh rebuff, instead of 
 paralysing the Australian colonists, only roused them to greater activity. 
 Mr. Service, Premier of Victoria, was the first to move in the matter. 
 He asked the Governments of the other Colonies to send delegates to an 
 Intercolonial Convention, at which this and other questions would be 
 considered. The request met with immediate and general compliance. 
 According^, the Convention assembled in Sydney in November, 1883 ; 
 all the Australasian Colonies were represented, and the Governor of 
 Fiji, Sir G. W. Des Voeux, was present, but did not vote. Resolutions 
 affirming the desirability of promptly and effectually securing the incor- 
 poration with the British Empire of such parts of Xew Guinea as were 
 not claimed by the Netherlands Government, were unanimously adopted. 
 
 Proposal of a British Protectorate. — To such an emphatic expression 
 of the wishes of the Australian Colonists, Lord Derby could not be in- 
 different. In ]\Iay of the following year his lordship addressed a des- 
 patch to the Governor of Queensland, intimating that the Imperial 
 authorities were inclined to sanction the appointment of a High Commis- 
 sioner for New Guinea, provided that the Australian Colonies would 
 agree to pay a subsidy of £15,000 per annum towards the expense of a 
 protectorate. At once the two Colonies of Queensland and Victoria 
 offered to guarantee, between them, payment of the whole amount, and 
 the other Colonies subsequently consented to pay each its quota of con- 
 tribution, but upon condition that annexation was really intended by the 
 Imperial Government. 
 
 D
 
 8 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Annexatio7i by Great Britain. — In October, 1884, several vessels of 
 war on llic Aiistraliiin st;ition left Sydney Harbour one by one, bound 
 northwards, and on the Gth November, five British war-ships were lying 
 at anchor in Port Moresby. Commodore Erskine then formally pro- 
 claimed the British Protectorate, and the British flag was hoisted with 
 great ceremony, in the presence of about 250 officers and men of the 
 squadron, tlie missionaries, and as many of the natives and representative 
 chiefs as could be collected for the occasion. All acquisition of land 
 from the natives was forbidden, and regulations prohibiting the intro- 
 duction of alcohol and firearms were drawn up. A representative chief, 
 Boi Vagi, of Port Moresby, was chosen, and Mr. H. Romilly was left as 
 Acting Commissioner, to enforce the regulations, and to act with autho- 
 rity until the arrival of the High Commissioner. Shortly afterwards the 
 appointment was conferred on Sir Peter Scratchley, who at once pro- 
 ceeded to enter upon his duties. 
 
 Announcement of German Occupation. — So far the Imperial Authorities 
 had complied with the wishes of the Australian Colonists, at least in 
 appearance. But the favour shown them was materially lessened in 
 value by the limitation of the area of territory taken under the British 
 protection. They, very naturally, desired that the whole of the island 
 not claimed by the Dutch should be annexed to the British Empire ; but 
 Lord Derby drew a line across the map, bisecting the eastern half into 
 two nearly equal parts, and made this line the boundary of the protec- 
 torate, leaving the northern section free to be snapped up by any Foreign 
 Power that might choose to take it. With reason the Colonists com- 
 plained that good faith had not been kept with them, and that their 
 agreement to pay the subsidy of £15,000 a year was invalidated by Lord 
 Derby's act. But his lordship refused to alter his decision, and, unfor- 
 tunately for the cause of the Colonists, New South AVales, which had 
 formerly been in hearty accord with all its sister Colonies in this matter, 
 drew off now, and stood aloof. It seemed as if the Secretary of State 
 for the Colonies, secretly abetted by the New South Wales Government, 
 was bent upon tacitly inviting some Foreign Power to take possession of 
 the unannexed portion of the island. Before the close of the year — as
 
 Plate IV. 
 " THE START." 
 
 SIR PETER SCRATCHLEY, HIS STAFF AND PARTY OF FRIENDS, 
 SS. " GOVERNOR BLACKALL." 
 
 Reference page 13.
 
 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 9 
 
 any person gifted with the least degree of sagacity might have foreseen — 
 the expected claimant made his appearance on the scene. The news 
 flashed along the electric wires in all directions that the German flag 
 was floating over several points along the north-east coast of New Guinea, 
 and on many of the adjacent islands. Fuller information showed that 
 the German Government had formally annexed the whole of the territory 
 marked ofl" by Lord Derby as lying outside the area of the British pro- 
 tectorate, together with the islands of Xew Britain, New Ireland, and 
 many others in that extensive archipelago. It must be recorded, to 
 vindicate the truth of history, that this intelligence caused a movement 
 of strong indignation in the minds of the Australian Colonists, and 
 vigorous protests against the action of the German Government were 
 addressed by the Australian Agents General to the Imperial Authorities. 
 The feeling of resentment was all the more keen, because the guarantee 
 to pay £15,000 a year towards the expense of the protectorate had been 
 given under a distinct understanding that the whole of Xew Guinea, 
 excepting the part claimed by the Dutch, should be annexed. Lord 
 Derby, moreover, up till the very hour of the declaration of the German 
 occupation, had denied all knowledge of any such intention on the part 
 of any Foreign Power. With reluctance the Australian Colonists ac- 
 cepted the limitation of area imposed by his lordship; but it was only 
 their fervent loyalty to the British connexion that prevented them from 
 marking in a very emphatic manner their sense of what they held to be 
 a most unjustifiable surrender of the Imperial rights on the part of the 
 Secretary of State for the Colonies. 
 
 Arrival of Sir Peter Scratchley. — Sir Peter Scratchley arrived in 
 Australia at the beginning of 1885. His first task was to secure the 
 consent of the several Colonial Governments to share in the payment of 
 the stipulated subsidy for the maintenance of the protectorate. He 
 visited each of the Colonies in succession, and after some demurs on the 
 part of one or two of the governments had been overcome, succeeded in 
 his object. He next chartered a tine steamer, the " Governor Blackall," 
 from the Australian Steam Navigation Company, and on the 20th 
 August sailed for the seat of Government.
 
 10 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 //is I'lrst Proceedincjs and Premature Deatfi. — He selected Port 
 iMorcsl))' us his first station, livin<^ on board the "Governor ]jlackall," 
 aud taking a general inspection of the surrounding locality, with a view 
 to selecting a fitting site for the proposed capital of the new protectorate. 
 His iiitriition was to make himself thoroughly acquainted with the 
 country before framing any regulations for the settlement of whites 
 witliin tlie territory. It was with this purpose that he joined the expe- 
 dition, the history of which is narrated in the present volume, and which 
 eniled, for him, in his untimely death from the malarial fever incident to 
 the climate. The loss thus caused, both to the Australian Colonies and 
 to the Imperial. Interests, was deeply felt and universally mourned. 
 
 Appointment of a Successor. — Mr. John Douglas, ex-Premier of 
 Queensland, was appointed by the Imperial Authorities to succeed Sir 
 Peter Scratchley. The new High Commissioner has set himself with 
 characteristic energy to carry out the purposes of his predecessor. 
 
 T/ie German Settlement. — The German government has granted a 
 charter to a company to promote settlement in its newly acquired pos- 
 sessions, and very liberal inducements are held out to enterprising 
 adventurers to become the pioneers of the German Colony.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Colonists demand Annexation of New Guinea — Lord Derby's Vacillation — Appoint- 
 ment of Sir Peter Scratcliley as High Commissioner — His Arrival and first Proceedings 
 — Departure from Sydney — Pathetic Parting of the Commissioner and his Family — 
 A SahLath Day on Board — Northwards to Brisbane — Description of the " Governor 
 Blackall " — Music hath Charms to soothe the hardy Seaman's breast — An Eminent 
 Naturalist — Gentle Savages — Departure from Brisbane — A New Patent Log — The 
 Tragedy of Percy Island — A Strange Ocean Product — An Island Paradise — An Apron 
 Signal — Townsville — Meeting with a "Vagabond" — Cooktown — The Tragedy of Lizard 
 Island — New Guinea in Sight. 
 
 HE repeated demands of the Australasian Colonists for the 
 annexation of New Guinea failed, for a long period, to 
 move the Imperial Government. Tlie policy of Lord 
 Dcrljy, when Secretary of State for the Colonics in Mr. 
 Gladstone's Administration, seemed to be of the Fabian order. His 
 lordship (as ^Ir. Froude told the Colonists), was in the habit of looking 
 at both sides of a question, and taking time to make up his mind. But 
 somehow the march of events outstripped Lord Derby's calm deliberation. 
 Rumours came abroad that some great Foreign Power was meditating 
 the annexation of the northern island. Stimulated to action l)y these 
 reports, the patriotic Premier of Queensland, Sir Thomas ]\lcllwraitli, 
 resolved upon taking the matter into his own hands, and he despatched 
 an agent to New Guinea with orders to take possession of the territory 
 in the name of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. These orders were promptly 
 obeyed, but the patriotic act did not meet witli Lord Derby's ap[)roval.
 
 1'2 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 'i'lic iiniicxatlon was disavowed in Downing Street, and the Colonial 
 Minister coiitiiiiKMl his tranquil meditations on both sides of the New 
 (iuiiica (juestion. At lcn<j^th Germany stcipped in, and forestalled the 
 fixed i)ur})Ose of the Australian Colonist. The larger half of the eoveted 
 tei-ritory was added to the German possessions in the Pacific. Then 
 Lord Derby — doul)tless with a feeUng of thankfulness to Prince Bismarck 
 lor his c()iisi(hrateness in leaving a fragment of the prize unappropriated 
 — bethought him of the propriety of taking steps to secure the interests 
 of his own nation in the matter. Ilis lordship appointed an Imperial 
 Special Commissioner, and despatched him to Australia to obtain the 
 funds requisite for establishing and maintaining a British Protectorate 
 over Southern New Guinea and the adjacent Archipelago. 
 
 Sir Peter Scratchley, the newly-appointed Commissioner, set forth 
 upon his mission, and arrived in Melbourne at the close of the year 1884. 
 His first task was to procure a vessel to convey him to his destination, 
 and also suitable for a floating viceregal residence, pending the erection 
 of a palace on shore. His next business was to obtain from the several 
 Australian Governments contributions towards the salary and expenses 
 of the Special Commissioner. This object was gained without any 
 difficulty, although there was a good deal of grumbling at Lord Derby's 
 remissness in allowing Germany to steal a march upon him. But, as 
 matters could not now be remedied, the Colonial Premiers, one and all, 
 agreed to share jointly the expenses of the Protectorate, and the Premier 
 of New South Wales, in addition, ofl^ered the use of H.M.C.S. " Wolve- 
 rene," then stationed in Sydney Harbour, for a six months' service on 
 the New Guinea coast. This ofter the Commissioner gladly accepted; 
 but just then, as it happened, reports were raised of an impending 
 rupture of friendly relations between Great Britain and Russia, and the 
 " Wolverene " would, in case of that event occurring, be required for 
 purposes of local defence. Instead of continuing his eflfbrts to procure 
 another vessel, Sir Peter Scratchley devoted his attention to the condition 
 of tlie colonial defences, most of which had been constructed under his 
 own supervision. Happily, the Russian scare Si)eedily subsided, and 
 tenders were called for from shipowners possessing a vessel suitable for
 
 I'LATE V. 
 
 1. LOADING LAlvATOT, PORT MORESBY 
 2. WOMEN MAKING POTTERY. 
 
 Jieferevce j^ioge 28.

 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 13 
 
 the Xew Guinea service. The tender of the Australasian Steam Navi- 
 gation Company, for the use of the S.S. " Governor Blackall," was 
 accepted, this vessel lying then in Sydney Harbour, undergoing repairs 
 and refitting. 
 
 By the end of July, 1885, everything was in readiness for a start ; 
 but another fortnight's delay occurred through the sudden illness of the 
 Commissioner. His health restored. Sir Peter Scratchley gave orders to 
 Captain Lake to have steam up and all ready for the voyage by half-past 
 eight on the morning of Saturday, 15th August. It was with no little 
 joy and pride that I shipped my personal baggage and apparatus, and 
 enrolled myself as a member of the Expedition. It seemed to me that 
 a goal I had long been striving to reach was now in sight, and that I 
 was fortunate enough not only to obtain exceptional facilities for seeing a 
 country whose physical peculiarities, and the manners and customs of 
 whose inha])itants had hitherto been little known and imperfectly 
 described, but to be the humble means of communicating truthful infor- 
 mation to others. A large party of friends came on board to take a 
 farewell breakfast, and to accompany us down the beautiful harbour. 
 AVe rounded PI. M.S. " Nelson," and the band on board that vessel struck 
 up " Auld Lang Syne " by way of parting salute. A number of small 
 steamers were conveying the men garrisoned in the various forts and 
 batterie to a grand review that was to come off that day, and the men, 
 as they passed our vessel, greeted us with hearty cheers. A little past 
 Bradley's Head our Captain slackened speed to allow Lady Scratchloy 
 and her children to be taken on board the launch " Gladys." I could 
 not help noticing that the parting between the Commissioner and his 
 wife and eldest daughter was touched with pathos and solemnity, as if 
 they all felt deeply that the enterprise in which the husband and father 
 was engaged was not wholly free from serious risks and dangers. Alas ! 
 it was their final parting on earth. The younger members of the Com- 
 missioner's family, liowever, entertained no misgivings. "With the happy 
 carelessness of childhood, they evidently regarded the occasion as only a 
 pleasant holiday, too soon brought to a close. At length the moment 
 for the final leave-takings came ; the last affectionate adieux were ex-
 
 14 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 changed, \hc hist tcnrlul embraces were given and taken, the last good 
 wislics M-vvv si)okcii ; tlie visitors were conducted on board the " Gladys ;" 
 and, witli waving of white handkercliiefs and many unspoken prayers for 
 a prosperous voyage and a safe return for the adventurers, they reluc- 
 tantly turned their faces in the direction of Sydney. 
 
 The North Head was passed at 10.40, and, steering her course North 
 by East, our gallant little vessel fairly entered on her mission, with a 
 fair westerly wind, a smooth sea, and weather of the true Australian 
 mildness and brilliancy. Broken Bay was speedily left behind us, and 
 next Newcastle, fiimed for its coal mines. As the sun was sinking below 
 the horizon we found ourselves abreast of the Port Stephens Lighthouse. 
 The wind had freshened considerably during the afternoon, so as to 
 spoil the appetites of some of our party, who had not yet found their 
 sea-legs ; the carpenter was battening down the hatches, evidently in 
 anticipation of a squally night, and the company generally betook them- 
 selves to the horizontal position in their berths at an early hour of the 
 evening. Happily, the fears of a coming storm were not realised. About 
 midnight the wind fell, and the adventurers slept as calmly in their 
 bunks as if they had been in a palatial hotel on shore. 
 
 Sunday morning dawned with Sabbath stillness and brightness. 
 After breakfast the Commissioner issued orders for a general muster at 
 half-past ten. The hour appointed found every man not actually en- 
 gaged on duty ranged on the quarter-deck ; the roll was called, and 
 the Captain announced that Divine Service would be held at eleven, 
 that attendance was not compulsor}', but that the Commissioner would 
 be pleased to see every man in attendance. Punctually at eleven the 
 bell tolled for prayers ; the crew, to a man, came up on deck, the ship 
 then going at half-speed ; prayer books and hymn books were handed 
 round, and then the Commissioner read with great solemnity the beautiful 
 service of the Church of England for those at sea, Mr. Fort leading in 
 the reading of the responses. The singing of the 166th hymn, in which 
 the whole of the little congregation heartily joined, concluded this very 
 impressive service, and every one of the worshippers seemed to feel 
 that ho had performed an act of devout thankfulness to Almighty
 
 Plate VI. 
 LAKATOI OR MOTIJ TRADING VESSEL UNDER SAIL. 
 
 Reference page 29.
 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 15 
 
 God for vouchsafing so happy a start and such fair prospects to our 
 expedition. 
 
 Once more the engines were put at full speed, and witli a light 
 wind and a calm sea our vessel went joyfully skimming over the deep. 
 Smoky Cape and Trial Bay were passed before noon ; the lighthouse 
 tower on South Solitary hove in sight; the S.S. "Birksgate" passed 
 us on our way southward ; several smaller sailing craft were sighted, 
 and one of them, a three-masted schooner, passed so close under our 
 bows that we could read her name — the " Sarsfield ' — with the naked 
 eye. 
 
 Next day we breasted the Clarence Peak, a well-known landmark, at 
 4.15 p.m.; and passed the Clarence River Heads at 5.30. After dinner 
 we discerned the lights of the camp-fires of the Custom House officers 
 guarding the wreck of the " Cahors," wrecked a few days before on 
 Evans Reef, and the red light at the Richmond River Heads showed out 
 just as the company were " turning in." During the night the mouths 
 of the Tweed and Brunswick rivers were passed ; Cape Byron, the most 
 easterly point of Australia, was rounded, and our vessel kept thence- 
 forward a more northerly course. The next point passed was the 
 southern entrance to Moreton Bay, which — it is a pity to record — has of 
 late years become shallower and urisafe for vessels of any size. Moreton 
 Island, a sandy, sterile-looking spot, was passed on the left, and at 
 9.45 a.m. we breasted the lighthouse situated on the highest part of the 
 island. Entering the mouth of the Brisbane River, the harbour-master's 
 steam-launch conveyed on board Mr. Romilly, the Deputy Commissioner, 
 and Mr. Chester, police-magistrate at Somerset and Thursday Island, 
 who had the honour of hoisting the British flag at Port ^loresby and 
 taking possession of New Guinea in the name of Her ^Majesty Queen 
 Victoria. Next appeared H.M.S. "Gayndah," which had been specially 
 constructed for the defence of the Port, to escort us up the river, and at 
 2 p.m. the " Governor Blackall " cast anchor opposite the Government 
 Domain. 
 
 At this point in our narrative it may not be unfitting to give the 
 reader a description of our gallant ship and the appointments made for 
 
 E
 
 16 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ilic expedition. TIk^ Ifiiil \v\\) in Sydney Harbour was thus described in 
 the '' Sydney Morning Herald " of 7th August:— 
 
 " Al)out two months ngo Her Alnjesty's High Commissioner for New 
 (Juinea, Sir Peter Scratchley, chartered the A. S. N. Company's steamer 
 ' Governor Bhickall,' in which to visit the different parts of the new 
 colony over which he has l)een appointed to act as tlie Queen's repre- 
 sentative; and on her arrival in Sydney she was taken over to the 
 Company's works, and altered and improved in her internal fittings to 
 such an extent as to give her the appearance of a new ship. Yesterday 
 the steamer was taken for a trial trip, and the result was regarded as in 
 every way highly satisfactory. She cast off from the A.S.N. Company's 
 wharf at about a quarter to eleven, and proceeded down the harbour and 
 outside the Heads for a distance of several miles, the speed attained 
 when covering the measured mile being equal to eleven knots per hour. 
 As the day was beautifully fine, with a gentle ' north-easter,' the trip 
 was greatly enjoyed by the company present, among whom were Messrs. 
 Cruickshank (chief Government engineer-surveyor), A. B. Portus 
 (superintendent of dredges). Gray (Mort's Dock), Captain Vine Hall, 
 Dr. Glanville, and others. 
 
 " There was but one opinion among the the company as to the 
 suitability of the steamer for the work in which she is to be engaged, 
 also in reference to the exceedingly comfortable, even luxurious manner 
 in Avhich she has been fitted out. The 'Governor Blackall' is a most 
 attractive looking vessel of 487 tons gross register, and was built from 
 designs supplied by Mr. Norman Selfe by Mort's Dock and Engineering 
 Company, in 1871, to the order of the Queensland Government, Avho 
 employed her for some years in conveying the mails along the coast of 
 that colony. She then came into the possession of the Australasian 
 Steam Navigation Company, and has been running in the coastal trade 
 of Queensland ever since. About five years ago the Company went to 
 the expense of providing her with new engines and boilers, which, with 
 the other parts of the ship, have been carefully overhauled and put in 
 first class order, so that yesterday the machinery worked very smoothly 
 and without the i^lightest hitch of any kind. On the 1st of July last the
 
 Plate VI 1. 
 
 1. LAKATOI, NEAR ELEVALA ISLAND. 
 
 2. ELEVALA ISLAND, FROM MISSION STATION 
 
 Itefereiice p'tge 31.
 
 L«
 
 FBOM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 17 
 
 ' Governor Blackall ' was placed in the hands of Mr. Crnickshank to 
 superintend the necessary alterations and repairs, and he has carried out 
 his work in a very creditable manner. The hull of the vessel, both 
 inside and out, has been chipped, cleaned, and painted, the paint outside 
 being white, which certainly adds to the attractiveness of the vessel's 
 appearance. The old fittings in the saloon have been removed, and the 
 apartment has been entirely re-arranged to suit the requirements of the 
 expedition. State rooms running its entire length have been erected, with 
 ample room ventilation, and light lor every member of the expedition ; and 
 the dining-table, with swing trays overhead, runs down the centre. On the 
 right of the companion leading to the saloon is the apartment, formerly 
 the ladies' cabin, to be used by Su' Peter Scratchley as a bed and sitting- 
 room, which is fitted up in most complete style, and with a considerable 
 display of taste in the furnishings, &c. Each of the officers has a separate 
 cabin, and in addition one has been set apart specially for the use of 
 Mr. Lindt, the photographer to the expedition, who has over 400 plates 
 with him, and who intends to take views of New Guinea to be sent home 
 to the exhibition to be held in London next year. Then Dr. Glanville 
 has a room, in addition to his private cabin, for the dispensary. There 
 is a bath-room for the use of the general, and another for the officers, 
 and in each hot, cold, and shower-baths may be had at any moment, the 
 cold water coming from a tank on the bridge, from which the whole ship 
 is supplied, and the hot from the boiler. All the furniture in the 
 cabins is quite new, and made of beautifully poUshed cedar, thus adding 
 greatly to the general effect. The forecabin has also been altered and 
 improved and the petty officers and men will find most comfortable 
 quarters therein. The ventilation of the vessel has been carefully 
 studied, and a system has been adopted which has so far been an 
 undoubted success, and in the trying climate of New Guinea should 
 prove a boon to all on board. The ventilating machinery is diivcn by 
 a separate engine, to which is attached a large and powerful exhaust 
 fan, which draws out the heated air from all parts of the ship most 
 effectually. There is a large pipe, six inches in diameter, extending 
 from one end of tlie ship to the other. This is slung from the roof in
 
 18 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 iho sjilooii, :iii(] in it ilicrc arc uir-slits at intervals, which can be opened 
 and sliiit at i)lcasurc. As tliu licatcd or foul air rises it is drawn into 
 these oriiices, and then throu*,di the i)i[)c till it is sent overboard. The 
 steam-en«2:ine will only be required to work the system when the vessel 
 is at anchor in the harbour, as when she is at sea the pipe is connected 
 with the funnel, and an effective 'up-cast' shaft is thus created. Two 
 of Iviicaldy's patent condensers for condensing fresh water are placed 
 on the bridge, and on trial proved wonderfully effective, over 1,000 
 gallons being obtained from them in one day. They occupy but little 
 room, and should prove invaluable to the expedition. They were the 
 only two in Sydney, and Mr. Cruickshank obtained them as a special 
 favour from Mr. AVildridge, the Superintendent of the E. and A.S.S. 
 Company. The next noticeable addition to the resources of the ship is 
 one of Oscar Kroff 's ice-making machines, which has been tried and has 
 been found to work well, turning out fifteen pounds of ice every four 
 hours. One of Sir William Thompson's sounding machines has also 
 been supplied to the ' Blackall,' and in the coral seas it should be of great 
 service. Yesterday it was tried under the supervision of the local agent, 
 Captain Vine Hall, and acted most efficiently, telling the depth of water 
 off the heads very accurately. In addition to every requisite in a 
 general way for the expedition, the steamer has been provided with a 
 complete set of spare gear in the engine-room, and an ample supply of 
 stores; also with a smart little steam-launch, which should prove useful 
 for a variety of purposes, especially for ascending shallow rivers, &c. ; a 
 Catling gun, with a stand of small arras, including Winchester and 
 Martini-Henri rifles, and revolvers, and about G,000 rounds of ammuni- 
 tion; and double awnings fore and aft. What was formerly the 
 commander's room aft has been fitted up in a very inviting way as an 
 extra room for General Scratchley. The ' Governor Blackall ' has been 
 placed under the command of Captain T. A. Lake, one of the most 
 valued officers in the Company's service, and there is every likelihood 
 that under his careful and skilful supervision the steamer will wend her 
 way safely through the dangers which surround the navigation of the 
 coast of New Guinea. After the steamer returned to the harbour sb
 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 19 
 
 brought up in Farm Cove, where she will remain until she leaves for 
 her destination. She will call at Brisbane, Townsville, and Cooktown, 
 en route to New Guinea, probably staying a couple of days at each 
 place." 
 
 From this description it will be seen that no expense was spared (as 
 was fitting) in adapting our vessel to the requirements of the expedition. 
 AVith a laudable purpose of lightening by innocent amusement the 
 monotonous duties of the seamen, and enlivening the spirits of the 
 company generally, the Commissioner, whilst in Brisbane, purchased a 
 handsome stock of musical instruments — concertinas, flutes, banjos, 
 bones, &c. — suitable for what, in the language of the music halls, is 
 called a "variety entertainment." Those of the party who were 
 musically inclined no doubt anticipated mnch pleasant recreation from 
 this new acquisition; but it may, perhaps, be doubted whether, on the 
 whole, the amateur performers themselves do not win larger delight 
 from these performances than the average of their auditors. Another 
 provident purchase was a set of oil-skin suits for the use of tlie crew ; 
 but when, on the second day after our leaving Brisbane, the cases 
 containing the waterproof gear was opened, it was found that most 
 of the suits were rotten and quite useless. They were of all colours, 
 from lemon yellow to Vandyke brown, and looked very much as if 
 they had been bought by the vendors as salvage stock Irom a great 
 lire in the warehouse. No doubt the clever fellows thought that they 
 liad done a very smart stroke of business in thus disposing of a case of 
 worthless and damaged goods at the price of sound and serviceable 
 articles; but the Connnissioner had the bad goods carefully repacked, 
 and re-shipped from Towsville to the too clever vendors. 
 
 Whilst at Brisbane, our vessel Avas constantly beset by sight-seeing 
 citizens, and our party equally so with "interviewing" reporters. The 
 visitors were treated with uniform courtesy, and they all appeared to be 
 very much pleased with the arrangements. Here the party was joined 
 by j\Ir. II. 0. Forbes, the eminent naturalist. His instruments had 
 been damaged at Batavia, through an accident that sunk the lighter 
 ;conveying his luggage, and he had come on to Brisbane to get them
 
 20 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 repaired. (h\ our starting, Mr. Forbes left behind him, to follow by the 
 next stcanuT, his Mjday servant and Amboynesc hunters. He spoke to 
 me very hi<,dily of these dusky retainers as being faithful and affec- 
 tionate; some of them were hi tears at their master temporarily leaving 
 them. Tills testhnony I am able to corroborate from my own experience ; 
 1 have iound l)oth the Malays and the Sundanese as servants 
 industrious and obedient, and so long as they are kept in their native 
 tropical chmate they are hardy and enduring; but they cannot stand the 
 cold, and what to an EngUsh constitution is pleasant and bracing 
 weather is to them severe suffering and complete collapse. 
 
 We left Brisbane on the 20th, at 3 p.m., the Commissioner having 
 finished his inspection of the fortifications. Mr. Romilly, the Deputy 
 Commissioner, embarked with us. He was limping a little, as I noticed, 
 from a slightly lamed foot. Our vessel was laden rather above the 
 Plimsol standard, in consequence of the quantity of coal and luggage 
 taken on board at the city; but as this was a defect that time would 
 remedy, not much notice was taken of the circumstance. It told ma- 
 terially, nevertheless, against the comfort of the voj^agers throughout 
 the stormy night that followed, the ship rolling heavily in a swell from 
 the eastward. At nine on the morning of the 21st we passed Sandy 
 Cape. 
 
 The Captain had fitted up one of Walker's Patent Tafi'rail Logs, to 
 test its accuracy. The instrument was not altogether a success ; the 
 distance from Sandy Cape to Lady Elliot Island is seventy-two nautical 
 miles, and the dial of the Patent Log showed only sixtj'^- three miles. 
 Captain Lake ascribed the discrepancy to the use of an unsuitable line 
 carrying the fan, or propeller, of the log, which error he proposed to 
 rectify upon a second trial. 
 
 Lady Elliot Island was passed about six in the afternoon. This 
 place is merely a low stretch of coral reef, standing only a few feet above 
 the water level ; but it bears a lighthouse, and it is of some importance 
 geographically, as indicating the commencement of the Great Barrier 
 Reef. A showery day, with a rather rough sea on, was followed by a 
 bright and tranquil evening, so that we looked forward to enjojdng a
 
 Plate VIII. 
 KOIARI CHIEFS. 
 
 Reference page 3.1-.
 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 21 
 
 quiet dinner and a calm night afterwards. This anticipation, happily, 
 was not disappointed. 
 
 On passing Percy Island Xo. 1 in the afternoon of the next day, the 
 22nd, Captain Lake mentioned that he knew the place well from a tragic 
 incident that occurred there within his own knowledge. The captain 
 has spent all his naval life on these coasts, and in the year 1854 — some 
 time before the separation of Queensland from New South Wales — the 
 Government of Sydney sent out an expedition to make explorations 
 along that portion of the territory. The party started from Brisbane in 
 a cutter named the " Percy," and after making an inspection of various 
 islands they came upon the one that was now in sight. As the place 
 presented an inviting appearance, they all landed to make researches, 
 with the exception of four men, who formed the crew of the little vessel. 
 But they ?iever returned^ everyone ofthem being murdered by the blacks. 
 The geologist of the party, Mr. Strange, was a personal friend of our 
 captain's, and the sad catastrophe was therefore stamped indelibly upon 
 his memory. The island bears the name of the cutter, and the recollec- 
 tion of the tragedy is thus perpetuated. 
 
 A second trial of the taflfrail log already mentioned was made on the 
 23rd, with much more satisfactory results. The instrument rings a bell 
 every quarter of a mile traversed, and is self registering up to one hun- 
 dred miles. Then the time is taken, and the same process is repeated, 
 the instrument requiring no attention save oiling a couple of times 
 a day. 
 
 We noticed here a peculiar yellowish scum spread over the surface 
 of the ocean. Upon inquiring of our skipper what the substance was, 
 he told me that seamen supjjose it to be the si)awn of the coral insect. 
 Sometimes it is met with in such large quantities that a landsman would 
 think that the vessel was running on a sandbank. The substance, what- 
 ever it may be, makes its appearance in these waters about the beginning 
 of August, and is rarely seen later than December. 
 
 At 4 p.m. wc passed Percy Island No 2, or rather, two islands 
 divided from one another by a narrow strait. Seen under the tinted 
 lights of a brilliant sunset, the place looks as lovely to the eye as Pros-
 
 22 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ])cro's ciiclKiiitcd Islutid. 'l\\('. sky was covered with those aerial " wool- 
 j)!icks" wliicli l,h(; tnid(! winds always bring with them, and the soft 
 sliadows of tlic silvery clouds flecked the green hillsides of the happy land. 
 There is abundance of timber, pine, and grazing ground sufficient for a 
 few thousand sheep in all seasons. An inlet runs up to a perfectly 
 sheltered l)asin, navigable for small craft. Our second engineer had 
 once been (b-iven upon tliis island through stress of weather, and going 
 ashore, he ibund a fine lake of fresh water, Avith unlimited fishing and 
 shooting privileges for whomsoever chose to claim them. Two or three 
 European settlers vegetate in calm contentment in this ideal island- 
 pastoral solitude. 
 
 Pine island is the name of the adjacent small territory, and is so 
 called from the immense quantity of white-stemmed pine, growing right 
 up to the summit of the highest hills, which it contains. A lighthouse 
 has recently been erected here, and the cottage of the keeper, standing 
 amidst a grove of tall graceful pines, looks to the distant observer a 
 charmingly romantic habitation for a sentimental hermit. Whilst we 
 were gazing at the house through our glasses we caught sight of the 
 lighthouse-keeper's wife walking up and down in the verandah, with her 
 baby in her arms. We waved our handkerchiefs by way of kindly 
 greeting, and the good woman, handing the baby to her husband, re- 
 turned our salute. On the side of the island which fronts the conti- 
 nent the cliff is extremely steep, the rise and fall of the tide being 
 fully twenty feet. To draw up the building materials and stores from 
 the landing-place on the beach the aid of an iron-wire tramway is 
 re(|uired. 
 
 1 could not help thinking that this group of islands would be a most 
 delightful place to spend a summer holiday. Access to the place could 
 easily be obtained by means of a boat from the Australian Steam Navi- 
 gation Company's vessel. The islands are well sheltered, game is 
 abundant, and the climate is simply perfection ; what other element of 
 holiday enjoyment is needed? One of the settlers would, no doubt, 
 readily lend his services to the party of excursionists, and what glorious 
 campings out they would have ! One of the group is named Sphinx
 
 Plate I:^. 
 TIIK HAUNT OF TPIE ALLIGATOR, LALOKI RIVKR 
 
 Reference pnrje 30.
 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 23 
 
 Island, from a fanciful idea of its resemblance in shape to the fabled 
 monster of the Egyptians. 
 
 During the night our skipper was busily engaged superintending the 
 navigation of the vessel through Whit-Sunday Passage, a narrow strait 
 running through an almost bewildering maze of islands. This passage 
 is counted the most beautiful spot in the whole extent of the Queensland 
 coast. We cleared the passage at six in the morning, so that we just 
 missed feasting our eyes on the varied loveliness of this romantic 
 archipelago. Ever since passing Lady Elliot Island we have had per- 
 fectly calm seas and Italian skies ; the vessel skims along the surface of 
 the unruffled waves like a sea-bird ; and one happy result of these 
 favourable conditions is that not a soul amongst the party is now absent 
 from the table at meal times. 
 
 Cape Upstart and Cape Bowling Green stand closely adjacent to one 
 another, both named from their peculiar aspects. The one rises abruptly 
 from the sea to a height of more than 1,000 feet ; the other lies flat with 
 the sea- level. A vessel might very easily run aground at the latter 
 spot, as the captain of the S.S. " Gunga " found to his cost a few months 
 ago, when he got stranded there. The casualty occurred in broad day- 
 light, and so sirapl}^, that the wife of the lighthouse keeper, standing only 
 a few yards inland, waved her apron to warn the skipper of his danger. 
 
 Late in the evening we entered Cleveland Bay, and dropped anchor 
 in the open roadstead, about two miles from shore. Townsville stands 
 upon the beach, on both sides of Ross's Creek, and high hills, rising 
 abrupth', enclose it all round. I had learned from the Brisbane papers 
 that " The Vagabond " was abroad in Northern Queensland, and next 
 morning, upon landing, I encountered this particular eye of the " Mel- 
 bourne Argus," looking as fresh and jolly as ever. r)y Mr. Julian Thomas 
 I was introduced to Mr. GulUver, of Acacia Vale, who received me very 
 hospitably, and lent me the manuscript diary of Mr. Edelfeld, who had 
 been employed by him in collecting botanical specimens in New Guinea. 
 From the perusal of this record I gained much valuable information. 
 Here a small flock of about flfty sheep were bought for the use of the 
 expedition, the survivors of the voyage amongst the lot being resei-ved 
 
 F
 
 24 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 lor |.;i^tur:i;j(: :it, tlu; Mission Sliilioii iit Port Moresby. Amongst our 
 visitoi-s wliil>! :it Towiisvillc wore Captain Sandeman and his amiable 
 wife, who took ;i larcwcll dinner willi ns, and then returned home in 
 tlu'ii- smart steam launch. 
 
 We left Townsville at 10 i).m. on tlic 24th, and next day at noon 
 were abreast ol" the dolmston River, the scenery along the banks of which 
 was dcsci'il)i'd to me by "The Vagabond" as being more beautiful than 
 anything he had ever seen, with the exception of the wizard Fijian 
 streams. 
 
 Cooktown was reached at I) a.m. of the 2Gth. The wharf here is 
 situated at the base of a steep hill, on the top of which stands the signal- 
 ling station at an elevation of about 500 feet. As the cliff intercepts the 
 cool south-east breezes, we began to experience, while lying here, the 
 true trojucal heat, the thermometer in the saloon rising to 80'^ So steep 
 is the hill, that when the dwelling of the company's agent was being 
 built, it was necessary to make an excavation in the side, in order to lay 
 the foundations. The situation of the house exposes it to the danger of 
 inundation from the tropical rains, but in the dry season the fresh water 
 required lor domestic purposes has to be carried up the steep ascent. 
 On the opposite bank of the Endeavour River rises the volcanic pile, 
 ]\Iount Sanders, its rugged slopes deeply scarred and worn by the rains 
 of many centuries. Cooktown wears a straggling and stagnant appear- 
 luice, in this respect contrasting strongly with Townsville. As is usual 
 with all tlie towns in Northern Queensland, galvanised corrugated iron 
 is here the universal building material, being so useful as a rain-catching 
 roofing. Walking through the town I noticed a good hospital (built on 
 a principle that suits it to a tropical climate) and several churches and 
 schools. At the girls' school the children were being taught their lessons 
 on the sliady side of the building under the verandah. Their appearance 
 struck me as being particularly neat and tidy. I took two photographic 
 views of the town, one of them from the summit of the hill, taking in 
 the mangrove swamps of the Lower Endeavour River. The missionary 
 schooner, tlie " Ellangowan," a very well-fitted and smart-looking craft, 
 lay at the wliarf next to our vessel, and H.M.S. " Raven " was moored a
 
 Plate X. 
 ROASTING YAMS FOR BREAKFAST, BADEBA CREEK. 
 
 liefereiice inige 38.
 
 ■if "■■ 
 

 
 FROM SYDNEY TO NEW GUINEA. 25 
 
 little way up the river, which is navigable for a short distance for smaller 
 craft. Chinese abound in Cooktown, and very valuable residents they 
 are, as they are the sole cultivators of fruit and vegetables. Scores of 
 aboriginals were strolling about the town, and they afforded us some 
 amusement by the expertness with which they dived into the river for 
 coins. At about midnight our last visitor from Cooktown, Mr. Milman, 
 who had been spending the evening with the Commissioner, left us, and 
 the stragglers of our own party being all brought on board, the tide 
 serving, we weighed anchor at 1 a.m. of the 27th, and so bade adieu to 
 the last civilized settlement we should see until our return from the 
 newly-acquired territory. 
 
 At daybreak Cape Flattery was passed, and, about 7 o'clock, Lizard 
 island, where a few years ago a party of 15eche-de-mer gatherers were 
 murdered by the blacks. This incident was rendered memorable by a 
 peculiarly tragic circumstance. Mrs. Wilson, the wife of one of the 
 party, had accompanied her husband on the expedition. AVith her baby 
 at her breast, she contrived to escape IVom the massacre, and accom- 
 panied by the Chinese cook to the [)arty, put to sea in a ship's tank, in 
 the hope of saving their hves. The poor fugitives drifted on to an 
 island in the llowitt group, about forty miles to leeward, and there 
 perished from want of water. The son of our skipper, happening to 
 touch at this spot some months afterwards, found the skeletons of the 
 })oor mother and her babe lying on the beach, and that of the Chinaman 
 a little way off. Beside the bleached remains of the mother lay a scrap 
 of paper, upon which she had contrived to scribble, in the midst of her 
 prolonged agony, a rough diary of the adventures and sufferings of her- 
 self and her companion. AVhat unrecorded tragedies these sunlit ocean 
 regions have witnessed ! 
 
 Clearing Lizard Passage, and keeping the largest island of the Lizard 
 group right astern, we steered straight ibr the mile-and-a-half opening in 
 tlie Great Barrier Iveef. Our skipper here mounted to the fore-cross- 
 trees, to keep sharp oljservation of our coui'se ; nor was the precaution 
 needless, for on both sides of our little cral't we could plain!}' discern the 
 lonrr waves breaking' heavilv into ibani on the coral reefs. Skilful
 
 2C> 
 
 rWTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 piloting cjirricd lis safbly through all dangers ; and, the Barrier Reefs 
 once cleared, our vessel ploughed securely the deep waters of the open 
 J'acific, heaving into billows under the influence of the south-east trade 
 winds. 
 
 A iuvourable run of thirty-six hours further brought us within sight 
 of the shores oi" the island of our destination.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FIRST LANDING IN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 First View of Papua — Breakers Ahead — Haven of Safety reached — First Welcome 
 — The Missionary and his Wife — Excursion to Eano Falls planned — Native villages on 
 the Littoral — Frolicsome Young Savages — A Degraded Race — A Tribe of Potters — 
 A Strange Flotilla — Preparations for Excursion — A Christian Sabbath in a Savage 
 Land — Elevating Influence of Christianity — A Photographer's Impedimenta — First 
 Landing — Religious Service in the Motu Language — " Granny " the Prime Minister — 
 A Stai-t resolved on — A Guide and Carriers engaged — Also a Native Head Cook. 
 
 HE south-east trade winds w^ere blowing when we first 
 sighted the shores of l^ew Guinea ; and as, during their 
 prevalence, a mist more or less dense hangs about the 
 mountain tops, we caught only a short glimpse of the 
 towering heights of the magnificent Owen Stanley Ranges. About noon 
 the low-lying lands of the fore-shore came distinctly into view. Stationed 
 at his post of observation on the fore-crosstrces, our skilful commander 
 gave forth his directions lor steering the little craft securely through the 
 lab3'rinth of coral reefs. Abreast of Fisherman Island we could clearly 
 discern the breakers flashing and foaming on the shallows, and at one 
 time we seemed to be in the very midst of them. At this moment our 
 course was easterly, and dead in the face of the heavy swell of the 
 ocean. Although our prudent skipper slackened speed by a full half, 
 Ix'fore we had passed the narrows abreast of Pyramid Point the waves 
 dashed in glittering cascades over our bows continuously for about an 
 hour. It Avas a very wonderful sight to observe the beautiful rainbows 
 woven by the dazzling sun-rays ujion tlie mounting and falling sprays,
 
 28 I'lcrniESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 (•;i(li ill succession ii|)|t( ;ii-iii^- and vanishing with the speed of light. At 
 Icngtii Tagil I'oint was passed, we were in smooth water, and our vessel 
 canu' to unclior in the hmd-locked harbour of Port Moresby. We had 
 reached our (h'stination. 
 
 ()ui' jiosilion was about a mile from the Mission Station, and close 
 l)y us lay anchored II. M. Surveying Ship the "Lark." The time being 
 about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, it was decided that none of the party 
 should go ashore till next morning. Speedily there came to welcome us 
 Mr. Musgrave, Assistant Deputy Commissioner, and Mr. Frank Lawes, 
 eldest son of the missionary. News was mutually exchanged, and }>lr. 
 Musgrave stayed to dine with the Commissioner. Next morning our 
 feet trod for the first time the soil of New Guinea, and we had a very 
 cordial welcome from the missionary and his amiable wife. Arrange- 
 ments were made by the Commissioner for an excursion on the following 
 Monday up the Laloki River, as far as the Rano Falls, the photographer 
 being in charge of the party. Then we took a first look at the native 
 villages standing close by the shore. They reminded us somewhat 
 of those ancient cranoges, or lake dwellings, once common in Scotland, 
 Ireland, and various parts of Continental Europe. Built upon mangrove 
 stakes, planted something below low-water mark, each hut is connected 
 b}- a sort of rude bridge with the shelly beach. Troops of naked 
 Papuan childi'en, some so young as to be barely able to stand on their 
 tiny hmbs, frolicked fearlessly about the ricketty stages upon which the 
 huts stood. They had evidently no apprehension of danger from falling 
 overboard. We could imagine the feelings of a civilized mother at 
 seeing her offspring diverting themselves in such a situation : the savage 
 matrons appeared to regard the scene with the tranquil satisfaction of a 
 motherly old duck which sees her young brood taking for the first time 
 to the water ! The natives hereabouts are an indolent and filthy race, 
 many of them being disfigured by ugly sores on their fiices and bodies — 
 the eflects of bad and hisutficient food, combined with carelessness of the 
 primary laws of health. This foul disease is, however, not contagious ; 
 if It were so, the whole race would speedily perish of scorbutic and 
 scrofulous epidemics.
 
 Plate XL 
 NEAR THE CAMP, LALOKI RIVER. 
 
 Reference iiiKje 38.
 
 FIEST LANDING IN NEW GUINEA. 29 
 
 Xevertheless, the Papuan natives of the littoral are not wanting in 
 industry and ingenuity. The Motu tribe is celebrated all along the 
 coast for skill in the manufacture of pottery, and they carry on a large 
 trade in cooking utensils and water jugs with the tribes Uviiig farther to 
 the west. We saw them fitting up their large trading canoes, or Lakatois, 
 as they call them, which are, in fact, a species of raft formed of five or 
 more large trunks of the buoyant pencil-cedar tree, hollowed out and 
 lashed skilfully together. These huge rafts were in various stages of 
 completion ; from twenty to forty busy workmen were in each, fixing 
 the lashings, and making splash-boards of lengths of thatch composed of 
 pandanus leaves. These leaves are gathered at certain periods when 
 they have attained their full growth, and are strung together in lengths 
 varying from 9 to 12 feet. A framework of strong saplings is first 
 lashed right across the huge trading vessel, projecting fore and aft about 
 8 feet, and 3 feet over the sides, forming, when covered with the leaves, 
 a gangway all round. Huts of the same tough material are erected 
 on tliis base, and last of all the mast is shipped, carrying a neat sail of a 
 peculiar shape, like the claw of a crab. Of course, naval structures of 
 this kind are not well calculated for sailing close to the wind ; but the 
 astute natives get the better of Xeptune and his laws, by taking advan- 
 tage of the prevailing winds to make their voyages annually. With the 
 last of the south-east trades they sail westward to the villages on the 
 coast, and to the rivers of the Papuan Gulf, exchanging their pottery for 
 the rabia (sago) and other products of the region ; and after several 
 weeks of feasting, they catch the north-west monsoons to return home- 
 Avards with their deeply laden vessels. Sometimes, on the return 
 voyage, half a dozen or more of the family trading canoes are lashed 
 together, thus forming Cjuite a floating village, swarming with a joyous 
 population. ]\[. D'Albertis mentions in his book the astonishment 
 which these strange flotillas caused in hinj. In anticipation of witness- 
 ing the starting of the Port ^Moresb}' Armada in a few days, I made my 
 arrangements for taking instantaneous photographs of the Lakatois, and 
 also of the singular mystic ceremonies which precede the event. ^lean- 
 time I Avas occupied with preparations for the inland excursion. The
 
 80 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 good missionaries jn-oniiscd to furnish horses for the party, and Mrs. 
 Lawcs kindly oifercd me her fixvonritc mare, a handsome chestnut, with 
 silver mane and tail, the offspring of stock brought over by the pro- 
 sj)ecting i)arty some years ago. 
 
 The Sunday was spent quietly on board, and as the ship's bell was 
 sniinnoiiiiig the voyagers to Divine service on the quarter-deck, we could 
 hear tlie fiiint tinkling of the bell at the Missionary Station similarly 
 calling the dusky worshippers to prayers. Even in savage New Guinea 
 the blessed light of the Word of God is gradually dispelling the darkness 
 of barbarism and cannibalism. It is amid such scenes as this that the 
 Divine power of Christianity, to elevate and dignify humanity, is most 
 fully apprehended. Only to think of the immense arc of moral ascent 
 there is between a cannibal feast and a Christian Communion ! 
 
 Although my apparatus and weapons of defence were always at 
 hand, I had much trouble in making these up into portable packages for 
 the native carriers, the impedimenta required for even a few nights of 
 camping out being both bulky and heavy. 
 
 My assistant and myself were put on shore on Sunday afternoon, 
 and took up our quarters at the hospitable Mission House, prepared 
 to make an early start next morning. After tea, a religious service was 
 held on the broad verandah, for the benefit of the pupils and servants at 
 the station. Books containing the Gospels were handed round to the 
 dusky worshippers, and some hymns, translated into Motu, which was 
 the language used in the service, by Mr. Lawes. The Motu, like all 
 other southern dialects, has a liquid softness and euphony of expression 
 that reminds one of the Malayian tongue. While Mr. Chalmers read 
 the prayers, the native boj^s and girls squatted around him, were very 
 attentive and decorous in their bearing, and all joined devoutly in 
 reading the responses. Their singing was notable for the careful manner 
 in which they kept time and tune together, and though the melodies 
 chosen were of the simplest kind, the}^ well became the lips of those un- 
 sophisticated children of nature. Amongst the servants, it should be 
 mentioned, was an old native woman, whom every one called Granny. 
 ]Mrs. Lawes introduced this ancient dame to us as her Prime Minister,
 
 Plate XII. 
 
 SADARA MAKARA, KOIARI VILLAGE NEAR 
 BOOTLESS INLET. 
 
 Reference i^nge 31'.
 
 FIRST LANDING IN NEW GUINEA. 31 
 
 without whose valuable aid and assistance the good lady would not 
 manage to get on very well. Granny " bosses " all hands with a 
 wonderful amount of tact and firmness. I presented the old dame with 
 a gorgeous brooch, which delighted her immensely ; we shook hands, 
 and I was repaid for my gift by a smile that quite lighted up the grim 
 and wrinkled face of the New Guinea grandame. 
 
 Anxiety about the weather, which was changeable, with sudden 
 gusts of rain, disturbed my rest through the night. Towards daybreak 
 the rain abated, and although the weather still wore an unsettled look, 
 we resolved on making a start, our genial host being of opinion that we 
 should have clear skies and gentle airs after passing the coast-range. 
 Seated at our early breakfast, under the verandah, the troop of native 
 boys, who were to act as porters for the party, made their appearance. 
 Being a "New Chum" myself, I had left the task of engaging these 
 carriers, and arranging the commissariat department, to Mr. Lawes, 
 junior ; but almost at the last moment this young gentleman was called 
 away on some Government service, and Mr. Hunter took his place as 
 guide. An experienced leader of expeditionary parties is Mr. Hunter, 
 and was right hand man to Captain Armit, when engaged in explora- 
 tions here. There was, therefore, every reason to place entire confidence 
 in our new guide. Our packages were equally distributed amongst the 
 boys, some of whom were of the Motuan and the others of the Koiari 
 tribe. One of the boys at the mission station had been told off to act 
 as our head cook, and in virtue of this superior station he was accorded 
 a lighter burden than the rest. 
 
 G
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Orders to March — Heavy Travelling — Tropical Creek — Sure-footed Mountain Steeds 
 — Native Hunting Camp — Luncheon in the Forest — Smoking the Bau-bau — Good 
 Country for Horse-hreeding — Koiari Kangaroo hunting — The Hunters' Feast — The 
 Koiari Tribe — Splendid Natural Panorama — Morrison's Explorations — Camp for the 
 Night — Perilous Journeying — The Alligators' Haunt — Night in the Papuan Forest — 
 Frightening the Devil — Fears of Danger from Natives dispelled — Morning in the Forest 
 — A Purpose abandoned — Strike for a Koiari Village — Savage Gourmands — Steep 
 Mountain Ascent — Magnificent Mountain Scenery — A Koiari Welcome — A Mountain 
 Village — Dwellings on the Tree-tops — A Koiari Chief — "Photographer" in Koiari — 
 Hospitable Offer — A Koiari Household — "Great White Chief" — Buying a Pig — A 
 Koiari Interior — A Papuan Meal — Conference of Chiefs — Papuan Etiquette — A Tribal 
 Feud — Uncomfortable Night — Superb Mountain Views — The Photographer in a Koiari 
 Village — Return to the Port — A Ruined Village — Native Remains — Encounter Mr. 
 Forbes — Missionary Hosi^itality. 
 
 ,, , _ IIE order for marchino^ beino- oiven, off started our train of 
 ^^ / ^^-'^*'^^" porters in Indian file, making straight for a steep 
 ^iC^^ liill rising a little way back from the station, whilst the 
 guide, my assistant, and myself, mounted on our steeds, 
 
 strike off on a tract leading in a northerly direction, by an easier 
 gradient, to a gap in the coast range. By making this little detow^ we 
 spare our horses at the outset of the journey — a most prudent pre- 
 caution, as we speedily discovered. After traversing a couple of miles 
 of tolerably level plain, densely covered with fine kangaroo grass, we 
 get into a country wherein undulations rise into ridges, ridges into hills, 
 and hills into ranges so steep that no horse save one thoroughly disci-
 
 Plate XIII. 
 THE VILLAGE PET AT SADARA MAKARA. 
 
 Reference page 41.
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 33 
 
 plined to this kind of travelling would care to face the precipitous native 
 paths. The intervening gullies were covered with an almost impene- 
 trable scrub, so that the party experienced all the troubles as well as 
 the delights of travelling in the Papuan "forest primeval," Our foot- 
 men having joined us, and Mr. Hunter leading, we traversed some of 
 the roughest territory it has ever been my hap to explore in the 
 Southern World. 
 
 About eleven a.m. we reached a creek fringed on both sides with 
 wild tropical verdure of a quite gorgeous description. Here we had an 
 opportunity of testing the capabilities, and noting the behaviour of our 
 steeds. At the crossing-place the banks were fearfully steep and 
 slipper}^ from the previous night's rain ; so, dismounting and slinging 
 the bridles to the stirrup-leathers, we let loose the horses to find their 
 own way across, two of the boys preceding to catch them up. I have 
 had much experience of crossing creeks in Australia, but all my previous 
 trials in that way were but a pleasant diversion compared with the 
 present one. Our sagacious animals, freed from their riders and left to 
 themselves, addressed themselves to their dithcult task with a serene 
 cautiousness that would have been admirable in the most expert 
 explorer. Down the almost perpendicular descent they went, step by 
 step, carefully setting each hoof upon some slight projection that just 
 afforded footing, and avoiding every stumbling block in the nature of 
 gnarled roots and tortuous loops of creeping vegetation. Arrived at the 
 bottom, they had a long, deep drink, and then commenced the ascent, 
 scaling the precipitous bank with all the courage and sure-footedness of 
 mountain goats. My own apprehensions of any casuality occurring 
 from a stumble during the journey were very materially diminished by 
 the time I had remounted. 
 
 Emerging into the open once more, we speedily found that our 
 journey lay across a succession of similar rugged gullies, each successive 
 one being still steeper and more dangerous-looking than the preceding. 
 At noon Ave reached a practicable water-course, liaviiig made, according 
 to our reckoning, about fifteen miles since starting. The spot was the 
 site of a native hunting-camp, and here we called a halt for luncheon.
 
 34 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Viicks were dropped, the horses were haltered up in shady nooks, a 
 dozen little fires were speedily ])urning, whereat the yams and taros of 
 the boys were rousting. A small provision of tobacco was served out, 
 and the bau-bau (bamboo pipe) was passed from mouth to mouth. The 
 method of smoking in New Guinea is peculiar. The pipe used consists 
 of a couple of joints of bamboo of moderate thickness and about thirty 
 inches in length. The tobacco is first wrapped in the green leaf of a 
 particular tree (invariably used for this purpose) and is then inserted in 
 a small orifice bored near the closed end of the pipe. When lighted, the 
 smoke is inhaled from the open end until it fills the tube ; then the 
 leaf containing the tobacco is withdrawn, a whiff is inhaled from the 
 orifice that held the weed, and the bau-bau handed to the next smoker, 
 who takes a whiff in turn and passes on the instrument. All the stored 
 frairrance beinf]: exhausted, the tobacco is reinserted and the same 
 process repeated until each one of the company has had his satisfying 
 Avhiff. The New Guinea smoker is not at all particular about the quality 
 of his tobacco; the real virtue of the narcotic indulgence lying rather in 
 the leaf wra})page than in the nicotian weed itself. Most of the bau- 
 baus are embellished with pretty designs resembling somewhat the 
 native tattoo markings. These decorations are burnt into the bamboo 
 with a glowing slice of the sheating leaf of the cocoanut kept at almost 
 white heat by the native artist blowing upon it. The end of the glowing 
 ember forms a fine point which, on being slowly moved along the desired 
 lines, leaves indelible tracks. 
 
 A billy of tea and some tinned provisions, with an hour's rest, re- 
 freshed us sufficiently, and we resumed our journey. The route for 
 about five miles was tolerably level, the country traversed being heavily 
 grassed and admirably adapted for horse breeding. Hearing the cries 
 of some natives in the distance, we learned from our boys that these 
 denoted a body of Koiaris out on a kangaroo-hunting expedition. 
 Crossing a watercourse, the sides of which were densely fringed with 
 rabia (sago) palms, we came upon the hunting party, numbering about 
 a hundred. They were all armed Avith light hunting spears, and their 
 sole clothing was a bit of string girt round the waist. At several fires
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 35 
 
 the captured game was roasting, and heaps of sugar-canes of various 
 kinds and sizes — some of the canes being fifteen feet long — were lying 
 about. We were introduced to several chiefs, who gave us a hearty 
 welcome and a hospitable invitation to join their feast. Some sugar- 
 cane — which was of excellent quality, and much more refreshing than 
 creek water, by the way — sufficed for our own moderate needs ; but the 
 boys had no objections to enjoying another spell and a feast of kangaroo 
 roasted whole. After a friendly smoke and chut with the hunters, who 
 urged upon our leader that we must not omit visiting their villages on 
 our return journey, we and our dusky entertainers parted company on 
 the best of terms. 
 
 The Koiaris are, as a general rule, people of small stature, but well 
 built and muscular, and their condition indicates that they have an 
 ample supply of nourishing food. 
 
 Our route now lay along the tops of ridges, and still ascending, we 
 soon reached a razor-back ranp^e above 800 feet hio;h. Althouirh it was 
 the season of the south-east wind, when the atmosphere is always more 
 or less hazy, we enjoyed the wonderful panorama spread out at our feet. 
 To the north-west we could trace the course of the Laloki River for 
 miles, descry the junction of the Laloki and G oldie, about five miles 
 distant, and a couple of miles beyond that again the crossing place on 
 the old diggers " track." On the northern horizon loomed a high moun- 
 tain, upon the summit of which (as our guide informed us) stands the 
 village of the tribe that speared and robbed Mr. Morrison, the explorer. 
 Its distance from where we stood was some seven or eight miles, and 
 this fact indicates the extent of Morrison's party's exploration of the 
 interior. Behind us, to the east and north-east, the serried ridges of 
 the Astrolobe Iiange stretched away for miles and miles, their wooded 
 slopes and rugged gullies being lost to view, at length, in clouds and 
 mist. Southward in the far distance we could discern the faint outline 
 of the coast range that hems in Port Moresby, whilst in the opposite 
 quarter of the horizon, in the direction of the Rano Falls, the rocky and 
 precipitous face of Mount Vedura towered full 2,000 feet above us. A 
 magnificent scene, not to be forgotten by the spectators. Mentally
 
 86 rrCTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 coniparin;^ it with similar scenery viewed in bygone times in far-oflf 
 lands, one might lor an instant believe oneself transported thither, but 
 a glance at our dusky companions at once brought us back to reality, 
 and made us fcrl that we were actually in New Guinea. 
 
 'J'he sun was sinking behind the mountains, and it was time to begin 
 to thiidv of pitching camp for the night. A conference between our 
 leadi-r and the chief of our carriers led to the selection of a spot on the 
 banks of the Laloki, distant about two miles in a northerly direction. 
 The march, although but a short one, was terribly trying, both to the 
 horses and tlieir riders. It was a descent along the whole course ; the 
 tall grass hid numberless loose boulders, making progress both difficult 
 and dangerous, and compelling us to dismount and walk. Besides this, 
 there were many rugged gullies with steep precipitous sides to cross, 
 bearing testimony to the fury of the tropical rains from the north-west 
 quarter. The light-footed and accustomed carriers found no difficulty 
 in crossing these perilous mountain chasms, but it was needful for the 
 rest of the party to make frequent detours with the horses. These 
 sagacious animals plodded steadily on, although at times their only foot- 
 hold was the almost perpendicular bank of the river, densely covered 
 with the thick foliage of the wild vine and rattan, and amidst fallen 
 trees and gnarled roots, forming what might fairly be termed an im- 
 penetrable jungle. 
 
 At length, about five o'clock, we reached a dry creek, some twenty 
 yards wide, -with a smooth sandy bottom. The spot struck me as being 
 just the place for a snug encampment, and so I remarked to my guide. 
 Hunter smiled drily, and turning to the carriers, held a brief colloquy 
 with them in their oAvn language. In an instant all faces were turned 
 upon me, and I could see by their looks and gestures that the party 
 were pretty generally of opinion that I was, to put it mildly, a harmless 
 lunatic at large. Then our leader calmly explained to me that the 
 natives dreaded the spot, just on account of its inviting appearance and 
 its gentle slope towards the river. This latter advantage made it, in 
 fact, a favourite resort of alligators, which unpleasant reptiles would 
 almost certainly, if we were to camp there, pa}' us a visit of inspection
 
 Plate XIV. 
 TREE HOUSE, KOIARI VILLAGE. 
 
 Beference page 44.
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 37 
 
 during the night, "with an ultimate purpose of having an unusually fine 
 feast. Accordingly, a spot in the scrub about twenty feet above the 
 smooth bed of the creek, was selected, which the natives at once set 
 about clearing, prior to erecting a calico fly tent, kindly lent us by the 
 missionaries. Whilst some were driving in stakes others Ht fires, and 
 others again went down to the river for water, taking cautious care not 
 to wade in farther than was just necessary to fill their vessels. By this 
 time the sun had sunk behind Mount A^edura, the short twilight of the 
 tropics had darkened to nightfall, and our evening meal — tinned pro- 
 visions and tea — was ready. Needless to say, we enjoyed it heartily, 
 for we were both tired and hungry, although our day's journey had 
 covered no greater distance than about twenty miles. 
 
 The impulse to " turn in " instanter was checked by the strange 
 novelty of the scene and circumstances. Accustomed as I was to wan- 
 dering in the unsettled regions of new colonies, I could almost fancy 
 myself in another planet. The hammocks of myself and my assistant 
 were slung beneath the calico roof. Hunter spread his blanket on the 
 bare ground, the lamp was lit, and our leader entertained us with many 
 " yarns " of his previous expeditions. The adventures of Captain Armit 
 and his party were narrated in detail ; the pathetic circumstances 
 attending poor Professor Denton's death were told Avith feeling ; how 
 the whole party, with the exception of Hunter himself, were struck 
 down by sickness ; how painfully difiicult a task it was to get the sick 
 men conveyed to the coast ; how fiercely insolent the natives became 
 when the white men were prostrate and helpless ; all these and other 
 incidents were vividly and powerfully described. Hour aiter hour 
 passed by, and still we sat listening, held by the spell of the adventurous 
 explorer, and losing all sense of weariness in the interest of his story. 
 A heavy fall of rain, which had been threatening since sunset, at length 
 broke up the party, and sent us to our liammocks. But just before 
 turning in, the natives (who had crowded round our tent for shelter), 
 through their leader made a request to Hunter. Laugliingly turning to 
 me, he remarked, " Do you know what these fellows are asking ? " I 
 pleaded ignorance. " They want me to fire off my gun to frighten the
 
 88 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 (lt'\ II away." Tlio shot was fired, and this incident set us off talking 
 a;;uiii, this time about the superstitions of the Papuan race, Hunter 
 liaviti«r no end of anecdotes to narrate upon this very interesting topic. 
 
 Sh'cp at last claimed its empire, and the camp was silent. The rain 
 fill lu'avily all night, but I had taken the precaution to spread my water- 
 proof over the mosquito curtain of the hammock, so was tolerably snug 
 and comfortable. Ko night alarms disturbed our slumbers, and upon 
 awaking in the morning, I found that all my apprehensions of danger 
 from the natives were completely dissipated by twenty-four hours' 
 residence in New Guinea. I smiled to myself at the solemn precautions 
 I had received about keeping continual watch, never allowing a 
 " niirsrer " to ^et behind me, and so forth. Confidence and kindness are 
 effectual preservatives, even when amongst the most savage population, 
 as every good missionary can testify. 
 
 At 6 A.M. the camp was astir. The rising sun had dispersed the 
 rain clouds, and although the mountain tops were folded in mist, the 
 skies gave promise of a fine day. Breakfast was dispatched at 7, and 
 our leader went to gather in the horses, which had been hobbled on a 
 grassy flat on the other side of the creek. This creek bears the name of 
 Badeba, and is a common camping place for parties visiting the Rano 
 Falls. 1 took some lovely little views in the country surrounding our 
 camp, and also one of the camp itself, in commemoration of my first 
 night spent in a Papuan forest. 
 
 A start being made at length, we rode on for several hours. But a 
 little before noon the rain-clouds began to gather once more, and I felt 
 it would be hopeless to get a good view of the Falls for my purpose that 
 day. So I bethought me of the invitation of our Koiari friends to visit 
 them when passing their village, and I asked Hunter to guide us thither. 
 Retracing our route for a few miles, the party struck off for the slopes 
 of the Astrolabe Range. There was no visible track, and the country 
 traversed was extremely rough and toilsome. Yet our carriers trotted 
 merrily along under their loads, every now and then dropping their 
 packs to give chase to a kangaroo or wallaby, these animals being very 
 plentiful hereabouts. It was astonishing to note the ease and celerity
 
 Plate XV. 
 
 MOTU GIRLS, PORT MORESBY ; ALSO PARO-PARO 
 
 APPLE-TREE. 
 
 Reference page 4(5.
 
 V^W^v^Ujawti^ 
 
 '.^kft-^OJ^.
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 39 
 
 with which the youthful Papuans scampered up and down the steep 
 slopes. Ridge after ridge, each more rugged than the one preceding, 
 was crossed and left behind. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of a 
 distant native village, which was as speedily lost to sight. At lengtli we 
 reached a deserted village at the foot of the range, on the summit of 
 which, perched close to cloudland, we could descry the village in which 
 we were to pass the night. Terrible fellows to feast are these Xew 
 Guineamen ! Xo sooner were the packs dropped than a fire was lighted, 
 at which a couple of kangaroo rats, caught during the afternoon, were 
 roasted, and a regular banquet was enjoyed. For vegetables there 
 were green Papaw — apples picked from the trees growing around the 
 ruined and deserted huts. A smoke and a " mild quencher " satisfied 
 the civilized members of the party. 
 
 Mounting our steeds, we set their faces against the steep path 
 ascending towards the razor-backed hill right before us, leaving our 
 carriers to finish their feast. Our progress was slow, and finally we 
 were compelled to dismount and lead our horses. At length the level 
 summit was reached, and from it we surveyed another magnificent 
 panorama of plain and sea and mountain. The whole extent of Bootless 
 Inlet lay spread out before us like a map. The setting sun threw 
 fantastic shadows across the hillsides, and long shafts of golden light 
 across the level plain stretching to the seashore. On the far horizon we 
 could dimly discern the breakers foaming on the sharper edges of the 
 barrier reef. A little nearer, some picturesque islets, each like a gem set 
 in silver, lay tranquilly on the calm waters ; on the left hand lay 
 Tupuselei, and on the riglit Pyramid Head, the latter bearing almost 
 due west. Xo fairer or more peaceful scene at that hour could the pen 
 of a poet describe, or the pencil of a painter depict. 
 
 By this time the people in the village aljove us had discerned our 
 approach, and were waiting to welcome us. A crowd of friendly 
 savages, all in puris naturaWms.^ greeted us with shouts of gladness, and 
 thronged around us with infinite chattering, to lead us to our temporary 
 domicile. The name of this Koiari village is Sadara Makara. It looked 
 as if newly built, and contained about twenty huts of the usual descrip 
 
 H
 
 -10 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 lion, four of tlicsc being perched on the tree-tops, full forty feet above 
 the ground. It cluuiced that the great chief of the tribe was just then 
 in the viHage, and being a particular friend of Hunter, we were intro- 
 duced to him, I myself being emphasized as an artist who had come to 
 take pictures of the village to be sent to far off lands beyond the sea. 
 This affable chief, who rejoices in the name of Lohio-bada, shook hands 
 with me cordially in the English fashion, and the same ceremony was 
 gone through by all the head men of the village. Lohio-bada even did 
 me the honour of requesting that I should exchange names with him. 
 Hunter suggested that my name (in Koiari) should be Misi Lolo, 
 meaning " maker of pictures," and I, consenting, was so denominated by 
 these friendly savages during my stay amongst them. One well-built 
 and good-looking fellow, named Daiva, offered us his hut to put up at, 
 asking in return for this hospitable proposal the modest honorarium of 
 three or four sticks of tobacco. We agreed to this kindly offer, and 
 forthwith took possession of our hotel, the landlord with his wife and 
 little baby withdrawing to a lower storey of the dwelling. This con- 
 sisted of a sort of shelf, about 4 feet below the main floor of the hut, 
 which stood on the right side of the village street. The dimensions of 
 the dwelling were about 20 feet by 16 feet on the main floor, and had a 
 verandah of some 4 feet in width and no higher where it joined the roof 
 fronting the street. 
 
 Some rain had fallen just as we entered the village, and the whole of 
 our carriers, with about a dozen of their friends, who were curious to see 
 the visitors, crowded into the apartment for shelter. A perfect Babel of 
 confusion reigned, the whole crowd chattering, laughing, and ex- 
 changing news with one another. A strong odour of cocoa-nut oil 
 pervaded the place, that being the unguent with which the Papuan 
 savages anoint theii* person. 
 
 The news of the arrival of our ship with the Great White Chief had 
 reached the village, and, naturally enough, hundreds of questions were 
 put to us, whether this was really the biggest of the big chiefs they had 
 been hearing about since the proclamation of the British Protectorate. 
 When Hunter assured them that General Scratchley was the true White
 
 Plate XVI. 
 
 SIR PETER SCRATCHLEY'S CAMP, NEAR MOUTH OF 
 AROA RIVER, REDSCAR BAY. 
 
 Reference page 49.
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 41 
 
 Chief, the native chiefs held an earnest consultation amongst themselves, 
 and Lohio-bada asked leave to call on us again after we had taken our 
 evening meal. The chiefs then retired. As the atmosphere of the room 
 had become by this time quite stifling, I called on Hunter to disperse 
 the crowd, so that we might eat our meal in peace. Slowly and 
 reluctantly the summons to " clear out " was obeyed ; and whilst our 
 landlord and his wife gave the house a sweeping out and general 
 tidying, we stepped out to inspect the village. 
 
 Whilst strolling round a native (through Hunter) proposed that I 
 should buy from him a pig at the price of a tomahawk, the porker to be 
 slaughtered next day, and made the piece de resistance in a general 
 feast. I agreed to the terms, but, not having a tomahawk with me, 
 1 was obliged to explain that the seller must give me credit, and must 
 come himself to the Port to obtain payment. The bargain was sealed 
 at once, this simple child of nature having no conception of an3'thing 
 like meditated deception in such a transaction. The staple of the live 
 stock of this village was, visibly, swine. These animals swarmed every- 
 where, and followed us about like dogs of the household. The particular 
 l)ig which I now was able to claim as my private property was pointed 
 out to me ; it seemed to be about half grown, and was in very good 
 condition. 
 
 On re-entering our lodgings we found tea awaiting us ; and our 
 hurricane lamp, suspended from the rafter, threw a dim light upon a 
 strangely unaccustomed interior. Piles of yams, taro, and other edilile 
 roots occupied three sides of the apartment ; on the walls hung shields, 
 clubs, and mouth ornaments ; sheafs of spears were stacked horizontally 
 between the rafters and the thatch. In the centre of the floor, which 
 was made of battens of the sago palm, stood the firci)lace (about four 
 feet by five), with an inch or two of puddled clay for a foundation, on 
 which lay a bed of ashes. Saplings of some four inches thick, scai-fed 
 into one another and bound together with cane, composed the fender, so 
 that the precautions against a conflagration were fully sufficient. Our 
 biscuits being of rather inferior quality I tried the experiment of sub- 
 stituting for these taro roots roasted in tlie ashes, which, with some
 
 42 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 n])])lo jelly, was a novel food I confess I greatly enjoyed. This root, when 
 curcfuUy roasted, tastes somewhat like chestnuts, and is very palatable. 
 For second course we had a pot of rabia (sago) prepared in the primitive 
 native las] i ion, wliich is a little imperfect inasmuch as the washing given 
 to the i'arina is not sufficient to remove from it the colouring and fibrous 
 matters, so that it soon turns sour. Some of our own apple jelly added 
 to the sago, with the sharp sauce of hunger to give the combination an 
 additional relish, we managed to make a very hearty meal. 
 
 Tea over, I was about to take a quiet smoke when Hunter informed 
 me that Lohio-bada and some other chiefs were coming to give us a full 
 account of the onslaught made upon the tribe occupying this village by 
 the neighbouring tribe, the same troublesome people that had robbed 
 and speared Morrison. To refuse to hear theu' story would be counted 
 a grave affront. Soon the dusky warriors made their appearance, 
 creeping in Indian file through the low doorway on hands and knees. 
 The dim light of the hurricane lamp played fantastically over their 
 savage features and imposing forms. They were arrayed in all their 
 savage panopl}^, evidently with the design of deeply impressing the 
 white strangers. Cassowary plumes and coronets of feathers adorned 
 their heads ; their white nose ornaments contrasted grotesquely with 
 their faces, painted in transverse streaks of red and black in sign of 
 mourning and woe. For a time not a word was spoken. Presently 
 there came in a steaming mess of rabia in a huge wooden bowl, a present 
 from the chief Lohio-bada's wife. This was first handed to Hunter, 
 who, as the representative man of our party, was obliged to go through 
 the form of eating a portion of the guest-meal. Then the bowl was 
 passed from hand to hand amongst the chiefs until it was entirely 
 emptied. The empty bowl was again handed to Hunter, who dropped 
 into it a stick of tobacco as a token of thanks for the hospitality shown 
 us. The tobacco was for the use of the chief's wife. — Xote, to have 
 refused to join in the meal, or to have failed to drop a gift into the 
 empty bowl, would have been deemed an unpardonable breach of 
 l'*apnan etiquette. 
 
 The bau-bau (the calumet of peace) was next passed round, and
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 43 
 
 Hunter and each of the chiefs took a whiff. Then the business of the 
 session commenced. Old Lohio-bada, in a very calm tone and collected 
 manner, narrated the story of the raid. He was listened to with deep 
 attention, and, when he had finished, the other chief corroborated his 
 story, or supplemented it with fresh details. Then Hunter addressed 
 the chiefs, expressing the deep sympathy of the white strangers with 
 the losses and bereavements suffered by the Koiari tribe, and pledged 
 himself to lay the whole case before the Great White Chief, who, 
 doubtless, would deal out rigorous justice to their aggressive foes. 
 Next Hunter interpreted the substance of the conference to us, and 
 we added our condolence to his, with a promise to back up his repre- 
 sentations to the Commissioner. We noted that whilst we were speaking 
 the chiefs intently scanned our features, evidently to test the sincerity 
 of our words. Their gestures to one another showed they were 
 thoroughly satisfied on that point. About nine o'clock the chiefs bade 
 us good night and withdrew. 
 
 When all fear of further interruption had passed away, I took down 
 the lamp from the rafter, and, swathing it in red cloth so as to exclude 
 all actinic light, I changed the plates I had taken in the morning for 
 fresh ones, and carefully stowed away the latent images in a light-tight 
 box. I then settled down for a last smoke before turning in. ^lean- 
 while our carriers, who had been paying visits to their friends in the 
 village, returned to the hut in groups of twos and threes. Finding 
 that they were excluded from its shelter, they cheerfully "camped out " 
 underneath the hut, on the slope of the hill. The night was not a 
 comfortable one. First the rain fell in torrents, but, happily, the roof 
 was perfectly water-tight. I had spread my hammock and sleeping bag 
 on the batten floor, using the cases containing my instruments as a 
 ])illow. I was roused from my first sweet sleep by Hunter's big 
 kangaroo dog, which had crei)t through the open door, purposely left 
 so for ventilation, and had nestled close to me. Awaking with a start, 
 I gave the intruder a punch in the ril)S which set him howling, to the 
 arousing of all hands. Quiet being restored, the native baby below, 
 which had reached the teething stage of its earthly career, set up a
 
 44 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 yelliiif^ wliicli was continued at intervals through the whole night. 
 Worst of all, the cflluvium from the bodies of the sleeping carriers just 
 beneath my bunk was intolerable. I sat up and tried the effect of 
 smoking strong tobacco, but in vain. Luckily, in groping about the 
 apartment ior the large globular vessel containing water (as I had 
 become very thirsty), I upset it, and its contents poured through the 
 battens, soaking the unsavoury sleepers below, thoroughly rousing them 
 and sending them off to a drier spot. Towards morning tired nature 
 asserted its power, and in spite of rain, dogs, yelling infants, and 
 malodorous savages, I gained a few hours sleep. 
 
 The morning broke fair, but chilly, as the village stands at a high 
 altitude above the plain. Stepping forth into the fresh morning air, we 
 stood gazing in admiration at the surpassingly beautiful scene stretched 
 out before us. In the direction of the Astrolabe Range, in particular, 
 the mountain scenery was superb, rivalling in wild grandeur any I had 
 ever seen before in my travels. 
 
 Breakfast over, I sallied forth into the village to take some pictures. 
 The native population, men, women, and children, gathered round Misi 
 Lolo with a childlike curiosity to watch my proceedings, and readily 
 obeyed all instructions. They stood in groups, took the proper attitudes, 
 and even posed picturesquely, as conscious that they were being 
 immortahzed in picture. When Hunter, at my request, asked the men 
 to mount to one of the tree houses, and to group themselves in warlike 
 array on the platform, as if defending their garrison against the attack 
 of a hostile tribe, they ran up the ladders with the ease and agility of 
 monkeys, donned their war coronets and masks, and in full war-paint, 
 armed with shields and spears, went through all the evolutions of 
 Papuan defensive fighting. They certainly looked anything but des- 
 picable combatants. I succeeded in taking several fine photographs 
 from savage real life, all thoroughly characteristic of the manners and 
 habits of these mountaineers. 
 
 Not caring to wait for the feast of roast pig to be held later in the 
 day, and intimating to my creditor that I would pay for the pig all the 
 same, I got Hunter to collect our baggage and carriers, and made a
 
 Plate XYII. 
 NATIVE HOUSE OR VANNABADA, KABADE DISTRICT. 
 
 Reference pfige 60.
 
 dlp^=5r-s?S^--prv W 1P^^
 
 FIRST EXCURSION IN NEW GUINEA. 45 
 
 start for Port Moresby. The old chief, Lohio-bada, and several others, 
 including my creditor, accompanied us. On our route we came to a 
 deserted village, whence this tribe had been driven by a hostile tribe 
 with a loss of sixteen lives. 
 
 We also noted a suspicious looking bundle hanging in the fork of a 
 tree, which we found upon inquiry contained the corpse of a woman. 
 I was unable to take a picture of this interesting object, of which, by 
 the way, the natives took not the least notice. 
 
 About ten miles from the coast we encountered Mr. H. 0. Forbes 
 and his party, e7i route for Sogeri, where he intends to form his first 
 depot. A young German, Karl Kowald, in the employ of Mr. Romilly, 
 attended the party as interpreter, and the baggage carriers were of the 
 Koiari tribe. Mr. Forbes looked well and strong, and, hke an ancient 
 Roman emperor, marched afoot at the head of his small army. 
 
 We reached the mission station tired and hungry, ready to do full 
 justice to the ample luncheon which Mrs. Lawes had provided for us. 
 I paid and dismissed my carriers, and had a long rest under the 
 verandah. Towards nightfall I went on board, and early next morning 
 developed the plates exposed during the journey. Most of the pictures 
 turned out satisfactorily, so that I was well pleased with the results of 
 my first excursion in New Guinea. All the more so upon finding that 
 during my absence no misadventure had happened at headquarters.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER. 
 
 Site fixed for Government House and Buildings — Bootless Inlet — Latatoi Trading 
 Vessels — Native Eegatta — Quit Port Moresby for Eed Scar Bay — Landing of the Party 
 — TLe Mouth of the Aroa — Ascent of the Stream — Eeception by the Natives — Eeflec- 
 tions on Land Tenure — Visit to Ukaukana Village — Interviews with Head Chief of 
 Kabade — Exchange of Presents — Adventures returning to Camp — Night Alarms — The 
 Vari Vara Islands — Back to Port Moresby. 
 
 MICABLE relations with the natives being thus esta- 
 blished, Sir Peter proceeded at once, with the assistance' 
 of Mr. Musgrave, to select a site for Government House. 
 They decided on a position originally chosen by the 
 " Argus " Expedition for the official buildings, and one 
 on the adjoining rise for the Governor's private residence, the great 
 advantages of these sites being the vicinity of a good spring of water, 
 and a splendid view all over Port Moresby and Fairfax Harbour. 
 An expedition to Bootless Inlet occupied the day after my return, 
 the Governor and his party being accompanied by Captain Pullen of 
 H.M.S. " Lark," who made some observations. The report was not 
 favourable to any settlement being established on this inlet, as it 
 possesses no river nor agricultural land, and is a mere cid de sac. 
 Before leaving Port Moresby we were fortunate enough to Avitness a 
 native regatta, in which the trading vessels (Lakatois) already men- 
 tioned were competitors. The scene was animated beyond description, 
 the crowd on shore being as excited during the contest as those on the
 
 Plate XVIII. 
 NATIVE TEACHERS, KABADE DISTRICT. 
 
 Ueference page 53.
 
 EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER. 47 
 
 banks of the Thames or the Isis. On the 4th September the trial trip 
 was made, the Lakatois from the village at Fairfax, Planuabada, and 
 Koitapu, at the foot of the mission station, rendezvousing at the western 
 extremity of the harbour. I landed with my instruments, and succeeded 
 in getting some excellent views of these picturesque vessels, which, 
 when in full sail, resemble a bird flying with its 'svings blown over its 
 head. The craft, with sails lowered, are poled against the wind to the 
 starting point, where they lie awaiting the fresher breeze of the after- 
 noon. About 3 p.m. we noticed sails being hoisted and a general 
 bustle, upon which we hastened from the mission house to the beach, 
 and found collected there some 400 men, women, and children, whose 
 interest in the sport was intensified by most of them being part owners 
 in one or other of the craft. On the siomal he'mo- o-iven, moorinfjs were 
 slipped, and away went the boats, well together at first, but eventually 
 those furthest from shore getting the strongest wind, and forging ahead 
 amidst frantic shouts of delight from their owners. When some distance 
 out the boats luff, reverse sails, converting what was the bow into the 
 stern, and make for the point where the spectators are posted, greeted 
 by shouts of admiration and enthusiasm. This trial trip is regarded as 
 a semi-religious ceremony, charms and mystic rites being j^ractised to 
 ensure fine weather and make the expedition a success. During the 
 race a native ballet is performed by the young girls on board the craft, 
 who swing their bodies to a chant composed of two notes only, and 
 accompanied by the monotonous beat of drums. Notwithstanding the 
 high winds, I was able to get several most successful unique instantaneous 
 pictures of the scene, which convey a more vivid impression of the 
 Lakatois than any written description could aftbrd. 
 
 On the 8th September the " Governor Blackall " got under weigh 
 shortly after 7 a.m., and left Port Moresby to visit Ked Scar Bay. 
 Leaving ]\Iourilyan to the right, we took the inner passage, skirted 
 Fisherman Lsland, steered for Lily Island, and })assed Boera about 
 10 a.m., the isk;ts of Vari Yarn now showing on our port bow. From 
 a distance they seem three disconnected rocks, the one nearest the 
 Australian coast being covered witli timber, leafless at this season, l)ut 
 
 1
 
 4.8 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Avliicli, as oxpliiincd ])y the Rev. Mr. Chalmers, who had joined our 
 ])arly, woiihl burst into leaf in another month's time. The Torres 
 Siraits pin;("ons, at certain seasons, settle here in thousands for rest, on 
 thrii- passage to and from the northern parts of Australia. Opposite 
 tlie Vari A^aru group, on the New Guinea coast, is Red Scar Head, 
 easily discernible by three trees growing on its otherwise bare brow, 
 and a characteristic red patch, visible a long way off, whence the locality 
 takes its name. Galley Reach, the mouth of the Manu Mann river, is 
 passed at 11 a.m., and we could discern the village and mission station 
 at the entrance. Shortly afterwards we sighted three rocks ahead, 
 under the lee of which is our proposed anchorage for the night. These 
 huge boulders are named by the natives Ke Keni (the daughters), from 
 a legend that their parentage is derived from the mountains inland, but 
 Jack, less imaginative and geological, has christened them " Skittle 
 Rocks." As eight bells struck we anchored in five fathoms of water, 
 about two miles from shore, and nearly abreast the Aroa river, one of 
 several streams taking their source among the foot-hills of the Owen 
 Stanley Ranges, and contributing (especially during the N.W. Monsoon) 
 a great volume of fresh water to Red Scar Bay, materially checking the 
 growth of coral. Hence the reef loses its distinctive character here- 
 abouts, and is merely indicated in the chart as the probable trend of 
 the sunken barrier, at a considerable distance from the coast. The 
 swell of the ocean, where not broken by the " Skittle Rocks," comes in 
 here with great force and causes a heavy surf on the bar of the Aroa, 
 especially at low tides. Two of our party, Mr. Romilly and Mr. 
 Askwith, afforded us considerable anxiety by starting out after luncheon 
 with Charles Kidd, a coast pilot, and one of the petty ofiicers of the 
 guard, in the ship's dingy for the purpose of fishing. Hoisting the 
 ill-fitting sail in the tiny boat, away they scudded before the wind, 
 towards the bar, anxiously watched by the skipper, who last saw them 
 right in the midst of the heavy breakers. As night came on and they 
 did not return much anxiety was felt about them, and, notwithstanding 
 the coast pilot's well-known skill, we were not reassured as to their 
 safetv until the foUowino; dav.
 
 Plate XIX. 
 VILLAGE or KOILAPU, PORT MORESBY. 
 
 Reference page 65.
 
 EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER. 49 
 
 General Scratcliley's principal object in visiting this locality Avas to 
 open commnnication with the native chiefs and sound them as to the 
 acquisition of land ; more particulai'ly with respect to certain real estate 
 said to have been recently acquired by a trader named Cameron. At 
 7 a.m. on the 9th September, all preparations having been made the 
 party started for shore, the steam launch laden with provisions and 
 camp equipage, towing the whale boat containing the passengers in her 
 wake. The little steamer was so overtaxed, that, on reaching the surf, 
 Mr. Chalmers, who directed the navigation, judged it best to cast off the 
 whale boat and pull ahead of the launch. The bar was crossed without 
 accident, and we found ourselves in the Aroa River proper, at its 
 embouchure some eighty yards across, but widening consideraljly higher 
 up. Selecting a landing place on the left bank, we discharged all our 
 cargo, and pitched our camp on a singularly picturesque little spot, 
 trunks of driftwood in the foreground forming a natural stockade, while 
 to the rear lay a little estuary with all its tropical surroundings. 
 Leaving a few blue-jackets to pitch the camp and keep guard, the whale 
 boat, again towed by the launch, proceeded up stream, which presented 
 the usual characteristics of a tropical river, snags and other obstacles 
 impeding our progress by water, and dense scrub on the banks rendering 
 it impossible on shore. ^Mangrove and Xipa palms formed tlie leading 
 features for two miles, when a creek called " Akibaka " was reached. 
 Here the launch not finding sufficient depth of water, left us and 
 returned to camp, while we proceeded up the branch stream with the 
 rising tide. This tributary soon narrowed so considerably that at times 
 the oars could hardly be used, and great difficulty was experienced in 
 clearing the boat from the snags and masses of overhanging creepers. 
 The Nipa ti'ees in some places completely over-arched the stream, 
 giving it the appearance of a lofty avenue. Notwitlistanding the beauty 
 of the scene at high water, considerations of alligators and miasma would 
 deter any judicious person from remaining in this locality longer than 
 absolutely necessary. The temperature was moderate, probably not 
 exceeding 80", and as we were unmolested by mosquitoes the tri}) was 
 not Avithout enjoyment. The banks, for some distance flu^h with the
 
 60 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 river, or nearly so, now became higher, and at intervals native landing- 
 places began to show. Then we noticed groves of Areca nut palms, 
 those bearing ripe fruit having one of their long fronds tied up in a 
 peculiar manner as a sign of ownership and taboo. Some four miles up 
 Akibaka Creek we came to the head of its navigation, where to our great 
 satisfaction we found our dingy minus its rudder, proving that our 
 friends had been lucky enough to cross the bar, and arrive thus far, at 
 any rate, in safety. Xear the Mission boat-house we saw a few natives 
 engaged in extracting the sago from the trunk of the Rabia palm. The 
 process, which is very jDrimitive, consists in cutting into shreds the 
 fibrous pith of the palm, cut into lengths of about six feet by means of 
 a peculiar kind of adze, made of hard cane, attached to a handle at an 
 angle of 45", the light brown substance containing the farina being 
 carried away by women to the edge of the creek, and there deposited in a 
 primitive gutter made out of the butt end of an immense palm leaf. Water 
 is then poured upon it which dissolves and, in a rude manner, extracts the 
 farina from the pulp. News of our advent soon spread, and joined by a 
 string of natives we passed through a straggling village situated in a 
 grove of tall cocoa nut trees, till we came to a house of a better descrip- 
 tion, and were introduced to Timoteo, the teacher located in this village, 
 which is called Yanuabada by the natives. Here we found Mr. Eomilly 
 and Mr. Askwith, who had been made as comfortable as circumstances 
 would permit. After being refreshed with the delicious drink obtained 
 from young cocoa-nuts, I sallied into the village and succeeded in 
 getting several very successful ^dews. The natives generally sleep in 
 hammocks suspended underneath their huts, which are built on piles 
 about eight feet from the ground. We counted as many as fifteen 
 hammocks under one building, but the bulk of the adult male population 
 was absent in the plantations. Our stay at Vanuabada was but short, 
 as part of our programme was to cross overland and visit another village 
 on the main stream, and also inspect the intervening territory. Our 
 road lay through flats of blade-grass country, interspersed with groves 
 of cocoa-nut palms and thickets of tropical scrub. Although the soil 
 appeared friable and easy to cultivate, yet the shallow, dangerous
 
 EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER. 51 
 
 navigation of the river is a vital obstacle to its possessing any commercial 
 value for years to come, and the difficulty of shipping produce would 
 involve great trouble and expense. I fear, therefore, that Cameron's 
 claim is of little value, especially as his title is by no means clear. The 
 natives liave no notion of fee simple, and are possessed with the idea that 
 the original owners have the reversion of real property on the death of 
 the person to whom they sold it. Until the question of land tenure is 
 settled by Government, I would strongly advise no one to contemplate 
 the acquisition of real property in Xew Guinea, and indeed not even 
 then, for there are millions of acres in Australia, w\aiting for purchase or 
 selection, infinitely preferable in every respect to anything in Papua. 
 After an hour's walk along native paths, we reached another almost 
 deserted village, and penetrating the dense belt of scrub which 
 borders the Aroa, came in sight of the main branch of that river. On 
 the way our party was joined by Xaim4 X^ru, tlie sub-chief of the 
 Kabade district, and after crossing the river, here a swift clear stream 
 flowing between banks twenty feet high, we came to the \'illage named 
 Ukaukana, of which Urevado is the chief. Tired and hot, we were glad 
 to take refuge in the house of Sameo, a Samoan by birth, and mission 
 teacher in this village. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were served up on 
 mats spread on the Rabia batten floor, and the General made a few 
 presents to Xaim^ X6ru, which that sable warrior received in true 
 native st}ie, i.e.., without evincing any visible gratitude or emotion. 
 After resting an hour or so we sauntered through the village to trade 
 for native curiosities, but found little of interest or value, and the wind 
 being too high for photographing, returned tlie way we came to the 
 teacher's house at Vanuabada, where we enjoyed a set dinner, com- 
 prising boiled jungle fowl and Goura pigeons with taro and yams, boiled 
 plantains flavoured with grated cocoa-nut forming a second course, the 
 Avhole washed down with tea and the milk of young cocoa-nuts. After 
 dinner, Urc Vadu, the head chief of Kabade was introduced, attired 
 European fashion, in an old Crimean shu-t with a string of beads round 
 his neck. Xaimci Xeru sat beside him, and a palaver then commenced ; 
 ^\v. Chalmers translatinof for the Iliah Commissioner's benefit the chief's
 
 52 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 opinion of Cameron's land transaction. This was to the effect that 
 h'gul consent to the transfer had never been given, and that Mr. 
 Cameron had bartered his articles to people who had no right or title to 
 the land in question, and therefore no power to alienate it. Sir Peter 
 took notes of the proceedings, and from all I saw I came to the conclu- 
 sion that Mr. Cameron's time and money had been wasted. Presents 
 Avere given to the chiefs, who in their turn gave us feather coronets and 
 native netted bngs. It being now time to think of returning, and the 
 tide being yet too low to float the boat, the General, Mr. Chalmers, and 
 the rest of the party started back on foot, I consenting to remain with 
 my assistant and the three sailors, and bring back the boat so soon as 
 the water served. Little did I know what that duty involved ! had I 
 foreseen all the labour those few six miles of inland navigation occa- 
 sioned I should have thought better of it. However, the foot party 
 started off at 4 p.m. pioneered by Mr. Chalmers, and half an hour later I 
 and my assistant went down to the creek intending to make a start, but 
 found our boat still docked in the mud, and our crew conversing with 
 the natives like Lord Byron at Venice, only without the aid even of a 
 dictionary. There was nothing for it but patience. The wind having 
 lulled a bit, I utilized the shining hour by getting a few views, including 
 a native house with groups, and the hammocks slung underneath as 
 already described. My Winchester repeating rifle also came into requi- 
 sition, the accuracy of aim possible with this weapon beino- much 
 admired by our sable audience. At length I sat down on a log to make 
 notes, and began to smoke. My meerschaum pipe, which happened to 
 have a pig carved upon the bowl, attracted the attention of the natives, 
 who at first timidly, but afterwards more confidently, had gathered 
 round me. Permission to examine the pipe having been asked by signs 
 and granted, it was returned to me with many admiring looks. My 
 boots, socks, and other garments were then criticized and admired, and, 
 in short, I became as great an object of interest as Gulliver to the Lilli- 
 putians. At length we got the boat off, punting with difficulty through 
 the sHmy mud, but the prospect of passing the night in the creek wi"h
 
 Plate XX. 
 "AT LOW AVATER," NATIVE HOUSES AT KOILAPU. 
 
 Reference page 56.
 
 EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER. 53 
 
 miasma and alligators for company made every one do his best to reach 
 camp before dark. The rising tide was against us, but served in floating 
 our boat, and after incredible struggling with snags and rank vegetation, 
 to our great joy we reached camp at half past seven, just in time for 
 some fresh tea. After a merry evening, to which the novelty of the 
 scene lent charms, we turned in for the night, Mr. Chalmers selecting 
 the whale boat for his cubicle, the rest hitching their hammocks as high 
 above ground as possible. Hardly had we slept an hour when a wild 
 shriek roused the camp. All turned out, when the cause of the night 
 alarm was discovered to be a few stray wild hogs, who were on the 
 prowl, and doubtless attracted by the smell of our rations. On jjassino- 
 under the hammock of one of the younger members of our party, the 
 grunting aAvoke him, and his terror took the above form, which probably 
 alarmed the intruders as much as it did us. He said he thought we 
 were attacked by alligators, but we insisted that his alarm proceeded 
 from the fear of something supernatural and of a still more malignant 
 character. Yet one more night alarm. After two hours' rest the steam 
 whistle sounded from the launch; up jumped the engineer, made for the 
 shore and hailed, " Launch ahoy! " " Are you all right at the camp?" 
 " All right ? Yes, what the deuce do you mean ? what did you sound 
 the whistle for ? " " We heard a boat come down the rivei-, and thought 
 
 the savages were attacking the camp." " Savages be ! Go to 
 
 sleep ! " growled the engineer. It turned out that Timoteo the teacher, 
 Avho had promised to visit us in the morning, taking advantage of the 
 high tide, had put in an appearance sooner than was expected. The rest 
 of the night passed quietly, and next morning, before camp was struck, I 
 took a few views, after which everything was packed. AVe re-crossed 
 the bar in safety about 9 o'clock, reached the ship an hour later, weighed 
 anchor and started for Port Moresby. Taking the Yari Yarn Islands, 
 already mentioned, on our way, we anchored and spent the niglit under 
 their lee. I went ashore early with the General, and sought in vain lor 
 some picturesque spot to photograph, although I traversed the greater 
 part of the islands, which are mainly formed of decomposed coral and
 
 54 
 
 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 coral limestone, producing little or nothing but coarse grass and pigeons, 
 of ^vhich tlic shooting party got eighteen. We found the gi'oup of 
 apparently three islands to be but one at low water, being connected by 
 reefs. At noon on the 12th September we were lying at our old 
 anchorage in Port Moresby.
 
 Plate XXL 
 
 n. 0. FORBES AND PARTY OF MALAYS; ALSO 
 
 CAPTAIN MUSGRAVE AND MR. LAWES. 
 
 Reference page 56.
 
 ■ ■ Li iaiwi ■» "w ■».'* ■■ •^''-J'T^y
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 A COASTING EXPEDITION. 
 
 Arrival of H.M.S. "Raven" — Trade Winds — Site for Governmeut Stores — Inland 
 Party Organized — Arrival oft" Tupuselei — Coast Scenery — A Papuan Venice — Sir Peter 
 Scratchley's Visit to Padiri — Siclaiess among the Party — A Native Feud — Attack 
 apprehended — Kapa Kapa — A Group of Mourners — Mangoes — Birds of Paradise — A 
 Palaver — Continuation of the Voyage. 
 
 |N the morning of the 16th we were agreeably surprised by 
 the arrival of H.M.S. " Raven " which we had last seen at 
 Cooktown, where she had been stationed for six months. 
 She brought us a mail, and remaining two days only, 
 returned to Cooktown. Before she left, and while we were still engaged 
 devouring the contents of the welcome budget of letters and newspapers, 
 the " Plerbert," for which we were waiting, made her ajipearance after a 
 somewhat long passage, which was explained by the liict of her having 
 bumped on a coral reef and narrowly escaped wreckage at llood Bay, 
 nearly forty miles to the east, where she had no business. Her getting 
 off, after dragging her anchor cast in ninety fathoms, was a piece of good 
 fortune for which her captain has reason to be thankful. 
 
 Attemi)ting to profit by the detention of the " Blackall " at Port 
 Moresby, 1 constructed a temporary studio of framework covered with 
 calico for the purpose of making photographic studies of iiati\ e luads, but 
 I reckoned without my host, or rather without the south-east trades, 
 which blew very heavily nearly all the time we lay in port. ^ly studio 
 
 K
 
 rs PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 was Mown to pieces, and some conce])tioii of the force of the wind may 
 be formed from the fact of my being bodily carried away some twelve 
 feet with a screen which I had seized with the intention of saving it. 
 The floor of the verandah being six feet from the ground it was a marvel 
 that a fourteen stone Icarus like myself escaped without broken bones 
 and nothing worse than a few contusions, but as work was out of the 
 question under these conditions I was forced to put my mortification in 
 my pipe and smoke it, while Sir Peter and his secretary, having got 
 through their despatches, confer with Captain Musgrove, the Assistant 
 Deputy Commissioner, as to the selection of a site for a store-house to 
 contain the articles now being landed with infinite trouble from the 
 "Herbert." As there is no jetty these have to be lightered in more or 
 less primitive fashion, or towed ashore. The construction of a jetty 
 must evidently be one of the first works undertaken, and as mangrove 
 piles can be procured close at hand, and the natives are accustomed to 
 this kind of work, the cost would not be very great. The superinten- 
 dence of erection of the store and dwelling-houses will occupy Captain 
 Musgrave for weeks to come. It is a matter of no small difficulty to 
 acquire land, after making a selection, for the native holdings are so sub- 
 divided and cut up into sections of so many shapes and sizes, with rights 
 of way, water privileges, easements and other obstacles attached to the 
 transfer of real property which would do credit to the ingenuity of a 
 civilized conveyancer. On a comparatively barren hill the Commissioner 
 has had to pay at the rate of twenty shillings an acre, and be glad to 
 secure even at that price. 
 
 On Monda}^, the 2 1st, Mr. H. 0. Forbes and party were ready to 
 start on their inland expedition, and I took a couple of photographs of 
 them before they left. Their first depot will be formed at Sogeri, a 
 Koiari village, about forty miles inland. There they will pass the rainy 
 season, and start for their object point, summit of Mount Owen Stanley, 
 early next year. As the Koiaris are friendly and intelligent, and the 
 climate is comparatively salubrious, their prospects of a successful 
 expedition seem very promising. Soon after 9 a.m. on tlie same morn- 
 ing we got up steam, and having bid fiirewell to our kind and hospitable
 
 Plate XXII. 
 TUPUSELEI, MARINE VILLAGE (FROM THE SHORE). 
 
 Reference page 57.
 
 . -i-
 
 A COASTING EXPEDITION. 67 
 
 friends, Mr. and Mrs. Lawes, weighed anchor, Mr. Chalmers forming 
 one of the party. 
 
 In two hours we reached Tupuselei, a Papuan Venice, built in the 
 sea, on piles, and entirely isolated from the land, communication with 
 which is carried on hy canoes. The inhabitants own })roductive planta- 
 tions on the slopes of the mainland, raising 3'ams, bananas and other 
 native food in abundance; they are also expert fishermen, and being 
 well to do, and on friendly terms with the hill tribes, live happy lives 
 after their fashion. On the 22nd, at 6 n.m., a party started for shore 
 in two boats; the General, Mr. Fort, ]Mr. Chalmers, and the Doctor 
 in the whaler belonging to the Mission, which Mr. Chalmers had sent 
 for the day before as being lighter and handier than the ship's long 
 boat, and the Captain, myself and assistant, and Charlie Kidd in 
 the dingy. The pilot (Charlie) speaks Motu, and was to act as our 
 interpreter. 
 
 Leaving my instruments at the teacher's house, our party went 
 roaming over the hills, which are more picturesque than those at Port 
 Moresby, shooting birds and collecting seeds, while Sir Peter walked 
 inland to see a village which Mr. Chalmers was desirous to show him. 
 Towards breakfast time the sun dispersed the mist, which up to that 
 time had shrouded the hills, and taking advantage of the opportunity 
 I got a series of nice pictures, including groups, as Charlie made my 
 wishes known, and the natives for a few sticks of tobacco were pleased 
 to pose. Some curiously carved temples, or rather feasting stages, 
 attracted our notice, while hard by was a Christian church in course of 
 erection, a proof of missionary labour. We then called again at the 
 Mission House, and Tua, the teacher's Avife, did the honours, offering us 
 l)ananas and plenty of fresh young cocoa-nuts. These teachers here 
 come from the Hervey Group, and appear to get on remarkably well 
 with the Motu people. A few presents were made to Tua in the shape 
 of several yards of mosquito netting, which I supplemented with a few 
 handkerchiefs and a l)it of looking-glass, a toilet requisite agreeable to 
 the feminine mind all over the world. We rested awliiK' in the; house, 
 which is built on the usual nalivc lines, I)ut remarkable for its cleanness
 
 58 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 and neatness. Tlic calico counterpanes of the beds, spread on the floor, 
 showed a rude aptitude for design in their ornamentation with a patch- 
 work pattern Ibrmed by folding squares of Turkey red twill, and slash- 
 ing out pieces with the scissors, just as designs are often made in Europe 
 out of tissue paper. In a barbaric country such as this, even a slight 
 approach to civilized taste attracts as much attention as does a collection 
 of savao-e arms or designs in London or Paris. 
 
 Our visit to the Mission House terminated, we started in the dingy, 
 Tua the teacher's wife accompanying us, to visit the marine village, 
 whose picturesqueness may be better understood by the views which it 
 was my good fortune to get, than by any detailed description. To 
 behold a community like this living in a village consisting of ricketty 
 huts six feet above the water, and half a mile from shore, excites wonder 
 and astonishment, not the least difficult problem to solve being how the 
 builders managed with the slender means at their disposal to drive the 
 piles supporting the houses into the sea. Many of the huts had a list to 
 leeward, and Mr. Chalmers informed us that unless they are particularly 
 well-built, or supported by their neighbours, the prevailing wind can 
 always be determined in this way. Poultry, pigs, and dogs are plentiful 
 in the village, and to see one of these latter paying a \dsit to a canine 
 friend over the Avay is a sight never to be forgotten. None but a 
 Tupuselei dog bred and born could ever hope to ascend the slippery 
 ladders, with rungs two or three feet apart, leading to the platforms of 
 the huts from the level of the waterway. At first when we noticed one 
 of these animals swimming across we thought he would be assisted on 
 landing ; but no, he was left to his own devices, and after several futile 
 attempts, most ludicrous to behold, he succeeded in accomplishing his 
 object, and obtained a footing. The interiors of the dwellings were 
 certainly not inviting, appearing dark and dirty ; still there are said to 
 be authenticated cases of white men of respectable families choosing 
 native wives and settling down happily. Well, " de gustibus non est 
 disputandura," or, as the French put it, " Les extremes se touchent." 
 
 We were now joined by the General, Mr. Chalmers and party, much 
 pleased with their visit to Padiri. They reported the country between
 
 A COASTING EXPEDITION. 59 
 
 tliat village and the coast to be fertile. Some of the Koiari chiefs 
 accompanied them to Tupuselei and received the usual presents. 
 
 The Doctor, who previously to Ica^-ing Port Moresby had been down 
 ■^^dth fever, was much better, and invigorated by his walk. Several of 
 the men, however, showed indications of sickness, one of the petty 
 officers in particular, having a bad attack, the symptoms being feverish- 
 ness and a foul tongue. For my own part I never felt better in my life, 
 and certainly shall not worry myself with apprehensions, but meet the 
 evil when it comes. 
 
 Remaining at our anchorage all night, on the morning of the 23rd 
 we steamed down the coast to visit Kaele, a village some ten miles 
 beyond Tupuselei, and, like it, a marine settlement. Our diplomacy 
 will here be called into requisition to settle a feud existing for some 
 time between the people of this village and the Garians, a numerous 
 inland tribe. The merits of the case, so far as we can ascertain them, 
 are that the Garians were the aggressors, killing three of the Kaele 
 people, who retaliated in kind, and so the vendetta went on, amongst 
 other victims being a Kaele woman. Matters, it is stated, have come to 
 such a pass that the Garians have formed alUances with their neighbours, 
 and threaten to come down and exterminate the unfortunate Kaeleans. 
 At the intercession of Mr. Hunter the General gladly consented to come 
 down and use his influence in the cause of peace, and messages were 
 despatched to all the principal chiefs to meet him at Kapa Kapa, the 
 village next in importance to Kaele, and situated about ten miles to the 
 eastward, the " Blackall " calling at Kaele on her way to investigate 
 matters. We reached the village about noon, and found both teachers and 
 the people generally in a great state of agitation, being cut ofi'from their 
 supplies on the mainland, and reduced to cook their food in sea water. 
 Some women who had ventured to the creek for water that morning 
 reported that the Garian warriors had been seen on the slopes, and that 
 an attack was imminent. The General, without attaching too much 
 importance to this scare, ordered the whale boat to be manned, and an 
 armed party, with wliom were ]\Ir. Chalmers and Mr. Fort, landed about 
 5 p.m., and proceeded to search the mangrove scrub of the salt-flats for
 
 60 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 the supposed enemy. We watched them with glasses from the ship, 
 disphiying much more interest in their proceedings than did the villagers, 
 who were singularly apathetic in the matter. About sundown the party 
 returned Avithout having seen any traces of a foe. 
 
 Kaele is a miserable place, and its church, situated about 200 yards 
 from the shore, and adjoining the house of Mr. Hunter, whose knowledge 
 of the ]\Iotu language was of great service, had a strong list to the north- 
 west. Early next morning, the 24th, the Captain, myself, and assistant, 
 accompanied by Charley Kidd, went ashore to take a stroll round. The 
 place looked even more desolate by daylight than in the shades of 
 evenino-, and finding nothing picturesque near the beach but ruins of a 
 tree house, which had a look of having been built to the order of the 
 artist who sketched it to illustrate the proceedings of the Geographical 
 Society of Australia, we penetrated the fringe of mangrove, and crossed 
 a belt of low country covered with salt water grass till we arrived at 
 another strip of mangrove, interspersed with tall forest trees. There 
 were as usual a quantity of birds, and a few wallaby crossed our path, 
 but not within shot. After taking a couple of pictures illustrative of 
 mangrove country, we returned to the ship quite ready for breakfast, 
 but not at all impressed with the quality of the land. At noon we got 
 under weigh again, and at two dropped anchor at Kapa Kapa, about 
 two miles off the beach. The charred ruins of old Kapa Kapa were 
 still discernible away to the east of the ship. This village had been 
 destroyed about two years ago by the Hula natives, who, sparing women 
 and children, massacred three of the men. The others taking flight, 
 sought shelter within the houses of their next neighbours, with the 
 inevitable effect of overcrowding to such an extent as to cause the 
 outbreak of an epidemic which led to the evacuation of the village alto- 
 gether. The present village is built half over the water, and the other 
 half over dry land, and the number of inhabitants is estimated at 
 about 500. 
 
 On the morning of the 25th I sallied out to pick up character sketches, 
 and was so fortunate as to get a splendid group of natives, with a man 
 and woman in deep mourning forming the central objects. This couple,
 
 Plate XXIII. 
 
 THE CHIEF'S HOUSE, MARINE VILLAGE OF 
 TUPUSELEI. 
 
 Reference page 58.
 
 A COASTING EXPEDITION. 61 
 
 we were told, had lost three of their children within a recent period, 
 and their grief" was deeply pronounced. They wore the usual native 
 mourning of suits of charcoal, with which their bodies were blackened 
 entirely. Strings of grey or lavender coloured beads were carried 
 across their foreheads, and hung pendulous from their ears. The man 
 wore an immense Cassowary plume, also blackened, and the woman had 
 her breast covered with netting. Their appearance was so picturesque, 
 that I was most anxious to include them in the group, but it requu'ed a 
 good deal of persuasion from our interpreter to induce them to sit, and 
 they accepted the tobacco presented them with apparent indifference. We 
 then took a stroll of a few miles inland, and found it to be one of the 
 most fertile tracts of countrj^ yet visited, containing miles of flat grassy 
 plahis interspersed with belts of tropical scrub, which would delight the 
 botanist, stretching away to the rises inland, whose rich vegetation 
 indicated soil of good quality. The country is admirably adapted for 
 sugar, and the clearing of the scrub would cost comparatively little. I 
 secured a couple of good views near a crossing, and in the bed of a 
 creek called by the natives Ka Kalo. Walking across the bed of this 
 creek, almost dry at the present season, and covered with sand and 
 shingle, we were struck by the great depth of black fertile soil on the 
 almost perpendicular banks. The vegetation was not unlike that to be 
 seen in scrubs of the Clarence or Richmond rivers in New South Wales, 
 but of a richer and more tropical type. Lovely parrots, parroquets, 
 scrub pheasants, and white cockatoos, filled the air with their harsh 
 cries, and a great variety of pigeons from the large Goura to the tiny 
 bronze wing dove appeared in numbers. We saw a great variety of 
 indigenous fruit trees, and heartil}' enjoyed a feed of mangoes which 
 one or our black companions good-naturedly procured for us by climbing 
 a large tree of that species, and shaking the ripe fruit in a perfect shower 
 to the ground. Although the fruit, which is about the size of a goose- 
 egg, is ratlier stringy in the flesh, its flavour is very dehcate. On our 
 way back to the ship we passed again through the village, and bought 
 some spears and other weapons. They value their stone adzes and 
 clubs very higldy, and will rarely part Avith them except in exchange
 
 02 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 for a good tomaluiwk. The fishing spears are made of about a dozen 
 prongs of hard wood, lashed to a handle six feet long, the prongs being 
 kept apart by interlacing with string eight inches from point. A 
 few seed i)ods are sometimes suspended from the shaft by way of 
 ornament. The plumes of the red birds of Paradise commanded 
 ridiculous prices all along the coast. At Goldie's Store in Port 
 Moresby fifteen shillings is asked for a plume, and twenty-five 
 shillings for an entire bird. We obtained a few birds from the native 
 teachers at lower prices, but still above what they could be bought for 
 in London. The same remark applies to nearly all the curios we saw, 
 their enhanced value being attributable to the demand created by the 
 number of men-of-war which have visited the coast during the last 
 twelve months. 
 
 The afternoon of this day was memorable for the visit of the Garia 
 and Saroa chiefs, who, seventeen in number, came off in the teacher's 
 whaleboat, which they filled from stem to stern. They looked fierce 
 savages indeed. One warrior sported an old suit of Pjjamas, the others 
 being naked with the exception of their waist- strings. One was in deep 
 mourning, got up in the manner stated. His Cassowary head-dress 
 covered his face down to his neck, and altogether he looked the wildest 
 specimen of the human race I ever saw. Another had short curly hair 
 all over his body, and a frightfully ugly mouth, the expression of which 
 was not improved by the betel nut he was constantly chewing. They 
 were ushered to the poop, asked to sit near the wheel, while Mr. Fort 
 and Mr. Chalmers arranged the presents which they were to receive in 
 case they faithfully promised to leave off molesting Kaele, and keep the 
 peace. I took a picture of this assemblage, perhaps the most curious 
 human group ever assembled on the deck of a steamer, the chiefs 
 making no objection, although none of them had ever seen a camera 
 before, and they probably supposed the proceeding to be some mystical 
 rite preliminary to the negotiations. The General then took his seat, 
 and, through Mr. Chalmers, inquired into the cause of the war. They 
 pleaded annoyance and aggression on the part of the Kaele people, and 
 were told that Sir Peter had come to establish " maino " (peace) all
 
 Plate XXIV. 
 WOMEN OF TUPUSELEI, GOIXG FOR WATER. 
 
 Beference page 58.
 
 A COASTING EXPEDITION. 63 
 
 over the island. They were asked to desist from hostilities, and promised 
 in case of compliance that presents were to be distributed to show that 
 sympathy was felt with their grievances. During the harangue I noticed 
 their faces lighten up at the prospect of peace and tomahawks, and when 
 the speech was over, all but the chief in mourning declared willingness 
 to terminate the war. At last even he, seeing that he stood alone, gave 
 in his adhesion, and each accepted a tomahawk, six sticks of tobacco, a 
 handkerchief, and a gorgeous Brummagem ring. These latter were 
 given to each chief separately, as a special token of faitliful adherence 
 to his promise. Sir Peter then dismissed them, saying that he would 
 return in two months to see if their promises were kept. The whole 
 affau* gave little trouble, for these warriors, although ferocious in aspect, 
 are easily led by a strong consistent man who treats them fairly. Before 
 leaving the vessel they were shown over her. Many of them had never 
 been on a European ship before, and the large mirror in the cabin, which 
 Avas in a state of semi-darkness, astonished them greatly. The evening 
 terminated with a lunar eclipse, almost total at the rising of the moon, 
 and continuing till 9 o'clock. 
 
 Next morning at daybreak Sir Peter and some of his staff, under 
 the guidance of Mr. Chalmers, visited some of the inland villages 
 and were very well received everywhere, being presented with bird of 
 Paradise plumes and stone clubs. In one village a fair exchange of 
 produce was in progress, and all the pco[)le seemed greatly pleased at 
 the re-establishment of peace. This (Friday) was a quiet day, all being 
 tired with their tramp the day previous. Captain Lake and I liad a few 
 hours shooting with good success, but I find taxidermy added to photo- 
 graphy too great a demand upon my time and patience. The same 
 remark applies to the formation of a botanical collection, which to 
 approach completeness requires a man's whole time to form, collate, and 
 catalogue. 
 
 On Saturday the 2Gth we weighed anclior, and al'ter a couple of 
 hours steaming through coral reefs, let go tlie anchor opposite Hula, to 
 rest and prepare for an inland expedition on the Monday following.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 AN EXPEDITION INLAND. 
 
 Walk from Hula to Kalo — Cocoanut Groves — Native Diseases — Mortality — Kamali 
 — A Pojiiilar Photographer — Arrival at Kalo — History of the Reprisals for Murder — 
 Price of Wife — Matrimonial Customs — The Author leaves Kalo — Crossing a River — 
 Arrival at Hood Lagoon — Rejoin the Ship. 
 
 |T daybreak on Monday, September 28th, all was astir on 
 the " Governor Blackall." Sir Peter Scratchley, Mr. Fort, 
 Mr. Chalmers, myself, the Doctor, and one or two others 
 started in the dingy, towed by the launch, for shore, which, 
 owing to the low tide, we reached by a circuitous route, and had to be 
 carried through the shallows pick-a-back. Once landed, we commenced 
 our work, which was nothing more or less than a pedestrian excursion 
 under the guidance of Mr. Chalmers, to the village of Kalo, some 
 miles inland, making Hula, where we landed, our base. A crowd of 
 natives surrounded us on landing, anxious to earn a little tobacco by 
 assisting to transport our baggage. A dozen were told off to carry the 
 Governor's effects, and four more took my apparatus and wardrobe 
 on theu' brawny shoulders. After getting clear of the village I counted 
 over fifty brothers, sisters, cousins, and aunts of the bearers following 
 our party on the chance of a stray bit of tobacco. The country through 
 which we passed was richly cultivated, containing miles of native planta- 
 tions devoted to bananas, sweet potatoes and yams. Some of the 
 gardens were in splendid order, and cultivated with Chinese minuteness, 
 the young shoots of the yams being sheltered from the sun by husks and
 
 Plate XXV. 
 MANGROVE SCRUB NEAR KAELE. 
 
 Reference pnrje G<>.
 
 
 mm 
 
 i
 
 AN EXPEDITION INLAND. 65 
 
 leaves. We found numbers of Avomen at work, and at every cocoa-nut 
 gi'ove we passed we were offered a refreshing drink. The cocoa-nut is 
 very abundant here, and consequently very cheap. Forty young nuts 
 or twenty full grown ones can be purchased for a fig of trade tobacco, a 
 price at which the " three sticks a penny " fraternity might invest to a 
 fabulous profit, could they but get their goods delivered at Epsom. 
 After traversing three or four miles of fertile country, we arrived at the 
 inland villages of Babaga and Kamali. The buildings here differ from 
 the marine dwelHngs considerably. The piles on which they are built 
 arc mostly strong timber up to eighteen inches in diameter, and how 
 with their primitive appliances they manage to move these huge logs is 
 a m3'stery. I took views of some of these houses, which have two 
 platforms, or rather a large platform and verandah in front, the latter 
 corresponding to the upper story of the structure. The chiefs' houses 
 are further decorated with a fanciful spire at the apex of the gable, 
 sometimes with poles projecting from their sides ornamented with 
 streamers or pennants of bark. The inland people suffer terribly from 
 skin diseases, far more so than the coast tribes, who are by no means 
 exempt, but here, where water is not abundant, two persons out of three 
 are more or less affected. A great mortality must have prevailed lately, 
 as we saw numbers of people in mourning and observed charnel houses 
 and graves in the streets, under the dwellings, and in fact anywhere and 
 everywhere, while the odour of decomposing heaps of vegetable matter 
 rendered the atmosphere anything but savoury, and quickly drove us 
 away. On the outskirts of Kamali we came upon a picturesque dwelling 
 which I photographed, while Dr. Doyle Glanville employed his pencil in 
 sketching a woman in mourning. Kamali being more attractive than 
 the village we had just quitted I remained to get a few studies, while 
 the rest of the party went on ahead. The arrangement was that Sir 
 Peter was to meet a boat at the crossing of the Kemp "Welch river and 
 be ferried to the launch which would rejoin the "Governor Blackall" at 
 her fresh anchorage at Kerepunu. I felt some misgivings as to getting 
 sitters, being as I was unable to communicate with the people except by 
 signs, but to my astonishment all the inhabitants turned out, evidently
 
 66 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 with the object of being photographed, and Mr. Chahncrs subsequently 
 informed mc that such is their vanity that had they but money, a 
 photographic artist in New Guinea would rapidly accumulate a fortune. 
 After an hour's rest I started with my four bearers in j^ursuit of the 
 rest of the party who had preceded me to Kalo. The road lay through 
 yam plantations and luxuriant groves of cocoa-nut palms, left to grow as 
 they pleased, the native merely collecting the crops. The rapidity with 
 which a Papuan can ascend a palm tree is marvellous. On an indication 
 that a drink would be appreciated, up he goes, and in an incredible 
 short space of time throws down half-a-dozen young nuts just fit for 
 tapping. His method of ascending is to take anything that will spin 
 into a lanyard, such as a bit of rattan, the rib of a cocoa-nut leaf, or even 
 a handful of long grass. This he ties over his feet near the instep, 
 connecting the feet by a pliable link, then by alternate movements of 
 hands and feet he ascends the straight stem of the palm. Arrived 
 underneath the fronds he holds on with one hand, and with the other 
 twists the nut round the stem till it drops. Boys eight or ten years 
 old can do this as well as the men, and I have no doubt the girls are 
 equally agile, though as yet I have not seen them mount a tree. I 
 arrived at Kalo just in time for lunch in the house of Tau the Raro- 
 tongan teacher, changing my clothes immediately, a precaution against 
 fever which should always be taken after a fatiguing journey. After a 
 rest and a smoke the General and his party walked to the river bank, 
 where the boat was in waiting to proceed to Kerepunu, while I and my 
 assistant made ourselves comfortable at Tau's house, where we were to 
 spend the night. The Kalo people were in a state of great delight at 
 the presents their chiefs had received from the General, whose visit 
 tended to efface the sanguinary reprisals made by the blue-jackets of 
 H.M.S. " Wolverine " after the murder of ten teachers in the place. We 
 were shown the marks of the bullets in the cocoa-nut trees, and 
 altogether the people seemed to cherish a healthy recollection of the 
 chastisement inflicted upon them, which was severe, the village being 
 surrounded and several men shot before the rest were allowed to escape 
 into the bush. The chief's house was razed to the ground. The
 
 AN EXPEDITION INLAND. 67 
 
 teacher, Tau, informed us that the people are still somewhat predatory 
 in their habits, his chest having on one occasion been broken open and 
 eight pounds of tobacco stolen. On complaint being made to the chief, 
 he compelled restitution of all the unconsumed tobacco and gave Taii a 
 large pig to make up the difference. A large portion of the village Avas 
 recently destroyed by fire, and is now in course of re-building. Among 
 other curious sights we were shown the price or dowry of a wife heaped 
 up on the platform of one of the houses. It consisted of a quantity of 
 all kinds of New Guinea goods and chattels, jDots, earthenware, and 
 wooden weapons, bird of paradise plumes, baskets of yams, bunches of 
 bananas and other produce. Among the articles were two pigs tied up 
 underneath the house. The bride herself sat all smiles on the verandah 
 above, over her earthly treasures, with as much pride as any white 
 sister might feel on exhibiting her trousseau. I regretted that owing to 
 the lateness of the evening I could not secure a picture of this curious 
 scene, but managed to give the lady a prominent place in a group next 
 morning. Skin disease is also rife here. We saw a young man walkino- 
 about the village with his arm round his sweetheart's neck, both of them 
 frightfully afflicted. He had a sore on his leg above the ankle, laying 
 bare the bone, while she, not naturally ill-favoured, was covered with 
 large patches which made her look positively mangy. Still, neither of 
 them seemed to mind it in the least, and looked supremely hap])y. The 
 head-dresses of marriageable girls are picturesque, their hah- being frizzed 
 and decorated with pink shells from Port Moresby, highly valued by 
 them, strings of Venetian glass beads procured from the traders being 
 woven in. All the women are tattooed from head to foot, and a peculiar 
 necklace-like V-shaped mark, ending in a peak between the breasts, 
 indicated those engaged or married. These cuticular devices, although 
 obvious enough to the eye, do not show in a photograph unless picked 
 out with black or some colour, a proceeding too tedious to perform even 
 if they should be willing to submit to it. During our stay witli Tau the 
 house, doorways, and ladders on both sides were constantly crowded 
 with natives attracted by motives of curiosity, and anxious to get a bit 
 of tobacco or even the stump of a cigar. I commissioned Tau to buy
 
 68 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 mc some l)ir(l oi" ijunulisc plumes, leiiviii<^ liim a quantity of tobacco for 
 the purpose, and making him a present of print and other articles for 
 himself and wife. He told me that so long as the ship was in sight, the 
 ])ricc of all curios was forced up to a fancy value, but that after her 
 departure the beloved " Kuku " would purchase anything at reasonable 
 rates. The commercial ways of savages are very like those of civilized 
 beings to be sure ! Tlie tol^acco I brought — the best American Raven 
 twist — was too good for the market; anything will do, if black and 
 strong. 
 
 On the 29th, although it was still blowing hard, I managed to get 
 some nice groups, and especially one of two women in mourning, keep- 
 ing watch at a hut erected over the remains of some departed relative ; I 
 was obliged to go to leeward for the view, and as photography appeals 
 to the eye and not the nose, I deemed the public had the best of it. 
 Numbers of women sat outside the houses busy niakmg ramis (petti- 
 coats) out of strips of fibrous leaves spread out in the sun to dry, and 
 performing certain duties for each other often mentioned by previous 
 travellers. After breakfast we started for Kerepunu, crossing the Kemp 
 Welch river in a native canoe close to where the massacre of the teachers 
 took place. The river is about a hundred yards wide and being 
 shallow at its mouth can only be entered by boats of light draught. 
 Once across the bar there is water enough to float a big ship. About a 
 mile from its mouth the stream bifurcates, the smaller afliuent being 
 nearly dry at low water, while the larger is navigable for about fifteen 
 miles, and is supposed to take its rise in the neighbourhood of the 
 Laloki, but on the eastern side of the water shed, running along the 
 back of the Astrolabe range, until it reaches the level land at the back 
 of Hula, The vegetation here is extremely rich, and the luxuriant 
 condition of the native gardens indicates the great fertility of the soil. 
 Dismissing our ferry men with a small present of tobacco, we proceeded 
 with our bearers along the sandy beach. The glare of the sun on the 
 shore and water was oppressive and I was thankful that I had provided 
 myself with a pair of Mr. Gaunt's smoked goggles before leaving 
 Melbourne, as they saved my eyes, not only from the sun's rays but
 
 Plate XXVI. 
 
 GROUP OF NATIVES AT KAPA KAPA : CENTRAL 
 FIGURES, MAX AND WOMAX IX MOURXIXG. 
 
 Reference page 61.
 
 AN EXPEDITION INLAND. 69 
 
 from the sand and grit blown up by the strong wind, to say nothing of 
 the protection they afford against fles in the scrub. The teacher was 
 rather uneasy about a little river named " Alerai " which had to be 
 crossed before reaching Kerepunu. At dead low water it is only about 
 knee deep, but on reaching it we found that the rismg tide had extended 
 its width about sixty yards. We shot a couple of brace out of a flock 
 of curlews we found at its mouth. Having no mind to follow the 
 example of Horace's peasant and sit down half-a-dozen hours in the 
 broiling sun, " Expectantes dum defluit amnis," we stripped and 
 prepared to wade across, braving the alligators, which the teacher in- 
 formed us were plentiful and possessed good appetites. First went the 
 boys carrying their burdens over their heads and fortunately keeping 
 them dry, though the water reached up to their shoulders. The teacher 
 and myself followed, and last of all came Mr. Bubb, my assistant. With 
 my broad-brimmed straw hat, and goggles, and singlet, rolled up under 
 my armpits, but otherwise in a state of nature, I must have presented a 
 picturesque apj^earance, at any rate, I caused some amusement to our 
 bearers, who sat waiting for us on the opposite side. The bottom was 
 soft sand, sinking a foot with every step, but we got across without 
 mishap and felt refreshed with our bath. Along the remaining two 
 miles of hard beach I walked barefooted, but was compelled to resume 
 my boots on crossing a neck of land covered with cocoa-nut trees and 
 brushwood. Emerging from the thicket we found our ship snug at 
 anchor in Hood Lagoon, with the village of Kerepunu as a background. 
 The mouth of Hood Lagoon is about a mile wide and at high water 
 sufficiently deep to allow vessels of fifteen feet draught to enter. Further 
 iidand it widens considerably and appears aljout eight miles long by six 
 in diameter. The depth in some places is considerable, but tlie best 
 anchorage is just within the narrow neck at the entrance. We got on 
 board without loss of time and were glad of a bath and change of 
 clothes. Tau, our guide, crossed over to Kerepunu to visit ^hinu, the 
 teacher there, at whose house the teacher of Hula was also staying. 
 Their wives had come with the ship to Kerepunu to assist in the ship's 
 washing, fresh water being more abundant here than at Kalo or Hula.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 NATIVE VILLAGES. 
 
 Scenery at the Hood Lagoon — Kerepumi — Hula — Fracas between Ship's Company 
 and Natives — Beneficial Eesults — Start for Aroma — A Native Chief as Passenger — 
 Parimata — Moapa — The Aroma District — Departure for Stacey Island — The Scenery 
 described. 
 
 EREPUNU lies on the eastern headland of Hood Lagoon, 
 '^^ and contains about 1,500 inhabitants, rising to the impor- 
 tance of a town rather than a village or hamlet. The 
 Mission House is built of lath and plaster, its founda- 
 tions being blocks of coral. The glebe, about an acre in extent, attached 
 to the Mission is, from its exposed position, unsuited for culture, and 
 only useful for purposes of recreation. A few hundred yards to the 
 east lies the fishing village of old Hula, tenanted by the remnants of a 
 tribe which was numerous and flourishing only a few years back, but 
 the bulk of them abandoned their village owing to tribal wars, and 
 settled about twelve miles further west, the new settlement receiving 
 the same name already mentioned in the previous chapter. The present 
 inhabitants remain on sufferance, being allowed by the Kerepunu men 
 to stay only so long as they supply the large village with fish. Old 
 Plula is built partly on the sea, and partly in a ravine close to the shore. 
 Facing the villao-e are extensive coral reefs, and beche-de-mer is collected 
 in considerable quantities, and bought up by a trader named Dan 
 Rowan, who ekes out a precarious subsistance by drying, smoking, and 
 selling it. During our stay there occurred a collision with the natives.
 
 Plate XXVII. 
 KA KALO CREEK, KAPA KAPA DISTRICT. 
 
 lieference page 61.
 
 NATIVE VILLAGES. 71 
 
 which might have entailed serious consequences, but which, as things 
 turned out, ended happily. That the imprudence of some members of 
 the ship's company did not involve us in a serious embroglio was a 
 most fortunate circumstance. After tea one evening one of the body- 
 guard and two stewards went on shore, the latter without leave. They 
 stayed rather late, and while walking round the village and romping 
 with the natives, had a few sticks of tobacco stolen from them. This 
 they somewhat noisily demanded back, using intimidating gestures, and 
 the result was a panic, the natives assuming that their village would be 
 burnt if the missing tobacco were not restored. Howling and shrieking, 
 the women snatched up their children and fled into the bush, making 
 so great a hubbub, that those on board the " Blackall " became seriously 
 alarmed on the circumstance of three members of the company being on 
 shore becoming known. Captain Lake and Mr. Chalmers at once went 
 on shore in the dingy to ascertain the cause of the disturbance, and 
 rescue the men if possible. By the time they reached the shore the 
 commotion had greatly abated, and they discerned some white imn 
 putting off in a native canoe, which they pursued, and identified the 
 occupants. The General was naturally much annoyed at the circum- 
 stance, and the matter was thoroughly investigated next day, a High 
 Commissioner's Court being convened, which the culprits were summoned 
 to attend. The Court was held at the teacher's house, the evidence 
 of the native witnesses being translated by Mr. Chalmers and the 
 teacher, and taken down by me. The decision was reserved, but the 
 proceedings were conducted with dignity and decorum, and evidently 
 made a strong impression on the native mind. The congregation 
 assembled afforded an excellent opportunity for an etluiologist. The 
 admixture of races here becomes very noticeable, and further east- 
 ward the lighter coloured Polynesian t}-pe becomes more and more 
 pronounced. 
 
 The next district to be visited is Aroma. Xoa{)ena, the great chief 
 of that part of the country, hearing of the General's intention of going 
 there, came down to Kerepuiiu, and was His Excellency's guest on the 
 trip to Aroma. We left Kerepunu on the morning of the '2nd October,
 
 72 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 but got stuck on a s.ind-JDank sliortly after starting, and had to wait 
 four hours till the rising tide floated us off. This delay necessitated the 
 postponement of our journey for a day, as the captain was unwilling to 
 navigate those dangerous waters in the dusk. We dropped anchor 
 opposite a village called Parimata, distant as the crow flies only twelve 
 miles from Kerepunu, but on account of the coral reef involving a 
 d6tour of some twenty-seven. This village presented a peculiar appear- 
 ance from long lines of high fences, looking in the distance like stockades. 
 We found these to be designed to break the force of the wind, which beats 
 on the low sandy shore to the detriment of both houses and plantations. 
 They are made of a framework of tough sticks and sapHngs fastened 
 together with rattan, and interlaced with cocoa-nut leaves, butt end 
 upwards. They are fully twelve feet high, and seem to answer the 
 l)urpose for which they were designed perfectly. The Mission House is 
 close to the beach, and the premises are larger than those at Kerepunu. 
 The teacher Tenaori is a determined looking man of powerful physique, 
 and seems well fitted for his post. Not long ago he was the means of 
 saving the lives of over fifty Motu people, for which service he was 
 presented by the General with a nice silver watch, bearing a suitable 
 inscription. The history of the exploit is as follows : — Some little time 
 ago a trading canoe belonging to Port Moresby got caught in a gale of 
 wind on its return from Motu Motu, and driven past its own port, was 
 wrecked on the reef of Keppel Point, not a great distance from Parimata. 
 There were in all fifty-six persons on board ; a traditional feud existing 
 between the Aroma people and the Motu's, the young Aroma warriors, 
 anxious to take advantage of so large a number of their foes being 
 placed in their power, launched their canoes with the intention of 
 massacring them all. Tenaori, seeing their preparations, and learning 
 their object, at once put off in the Mission Boat to interpose and save 
 life. He was after some parley allowed to land unaccompanied, the 
 Motu people knowing their danger, and being greatly apprehensive 
 of a hostile visit. Their anticipations were indeed realized, for soon the 
 Aroma war canoes came in sight. On their approaching within hailing 
 distance, Tenaori harangued the warriors in true native style, and by
 
 Plate XXVIII. 
 NEW GUINEA TROPHY, AVEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 Reference page G3.
 
 KOAPENA THE AROMA CHIEF. 73 
 
 alternate coaxing, bullying, cajolling, and threatening, induced them to 
 forego their project. He then took the Motus off the reef to the Mission 
 Plouse, a boatload at a time, fed them, and finally crowned his diplomatic 
 "vvork by sending them to Kerepunu in the canoes of the very persons 
 who had meditated their destruction. Thence they were shipped to 
 Hula, where they chartered a lakatoi, and returned to Port Moresby. 
 Sir Peter Scratchley hearing, when in Queensland, of this truly heroic 
 action, determined to mark his sense of it by conferring a mark of 
 distinction on the hero of the affair. Our guest Koapena, the chief of 
 the Aroma District, although past the prime of life, is a fine stalwart 
 man over six feet high, and decidedly the finest specimen of savage 
 humanity we have seen in New Guinea. He stoops slightly with age, 
 but his bearing is full of grace and dignity, and altogether he looks like 
 a person to select rather for a friend than a foe. He is in full native 
 dress, i.e.^ waist string, plaited armlets, and head-scratcher, or five- 
 toothed comb. His luo-o^ao-e consists of a little netted shoulder-bag or 
 knapsack, containing a lime gourd, a stick of betel pepper and a few 
 areca nuts, the combination of which articles constitutes his favourite 
 chew. The steward served him dinner in the saloon as soon as ours, 
 which we now almost invariably take on the quarter-deck, was over. 
 Amongst other things he was given some tinned asparagus, a vegetable 
 which he certainly had never seen before. His appetite was wonderful, 
 and he ate enough baked yams and pork to satisfy three oi'dinary 
 ])eople. The result of this late and heavy meal was that he could not 
 sleep, notwithstanding the soft cushions provided for him in the aft part 
 of the saloon, and I was witness to a midnight conversation equally 
 quahit and ludicrous between this gigantic naked savage and Mr. Fort, 
 the General's secretary, who olteii })refers to do his woi-k in the cool of 
 the night. The former plying his little chunan stick from his lime 
 calabash to his mouth, and now and then taking a chip of betel, by way 
 of variety, watched with curiosity the busy pen of the Secretary 
 seated op[)osite, writing by the light of three candles, in addition to the 
 saloon lam[). Scarcely a word was spokt-n, and certainly none wire 
 exchanged, the chief contenting himself witli smiling and nodding in
 
 74 riCTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 rci)ly to the Secretary's whispers and cluml) show. This nocturnal 
 interview between an Oxford B.A. and a native prince is surely 
 without precedent. I greatly regretted that the time and place 
 adordcd insuperable obstacles to my taking a picture of it. The 
 warrior chief, in addition to his other embellishments, had more 
 than thirty crosses tattooed on his breast and back, each of which 
 indicates a life violently taken. We landed at Parimata shortly after 
 ten o'clock next morning, not without difficulty, as the water is shallow, 
 and the surf rough. Sir Peter had arranged to visit Koapenas Village, 
 Moapa, without loss of time, as we were to start for Suau and Dinner 
 Islands on the morrow. Our walk to Moapa, after leaving the beautiful 
 hard beach, lay through plantations of cocoa-nut trees, the road being 
 fringed on either side with nuts put out to sprout, forming a border two 
 feet high. When the roots begin to penetrate the soil, they are trans- 
 planted, and fresh ones put in their places. The milk, which w^e quaffed 
 abundantly at every halt, is most refreshing. Each nut contains fully 
 a pint, and the quantity we put away I should not like to estimate. 
 Every now and then we met troops of people engaged at the plantations, 
 the young men bedecked with Avreaths of flowers and twigs of bright 
 crotons stuck through their armlets. My dark goggles produced a sort 
 of terrified amazement among the women and girls, and when I took 
 them off curiosity overcame fear, and they expressed theu' wonder and 
 surprise without stint. I put them on one of our carrier boys to show 
 that they were transferable, and he indicated by signs that he understood 
 perfectly well that they served to guard the eyes from the glare of the 
 sun. After a pleasant walk of about three miles, we neared the beach, 
 the soil becoming sandy and barren, and, passing the Mission House, 
 we came upon Moapa, a considerable village situated in a sandy flat, 
 protected from the sea breezes by a belt of hills covered with Pandanus 
 trees, and timber somewhat similar to the honeysuckle. The population 
 of Moapa is about 600, and the houses, built facing each other so as to 
 Ibrm regular streets, show an order and regularity which would not 
 disgrace a European town. All the houses are two-storey structures, 
 and some of them have a kind of third floor close to the ridofe. The
 
 VILLAGE OF MOAPA. 75 
 
 usual platform is in front of every tenement, but many of tliem have 
 this peculiarity, that access is gained by a sort of manhole in the floor, 
 eight or nine feet from the ground, and reached by a ladder, which can 
 be drawn up into the building at pleasure. Our host showed us with 
 pride three different houses belonging to him, each presided over by a 
 separate individual in the shape of a wife. He was, however, bound to 
 confess that this " unicorn " team was as much as he could drive, and 
 that he was obliged to breakfast in one hut, lunch in another, and dine 
 in a third, distributing his other attentions impartially, or an outburst 
 of jealousy was the result. In the centre of the village we found an 
 open space or square with a sanctuary in the middle. It consisted of a 
 framework of logs, about three feet high, filled with earth inside, and 
 surmounted by a kind of scaffold, from which half a dozen skulls, orna- 
 mented with strino;s of cowrie shells and streamers of Pandanus were 
 suspended. On the mound beneath more skulls and other human bones 
 were scattered. These were supposed to be the remains of a party of 
 bcche-de-mer fishers, murdered some years ago by the Aroma people. 
 Dilapidated and repulsive looking as the spot looked, overgrown with 
 weeds, and ghastly with human debris, it was interesting enough to 
 record photographically, but the conditions rendered this impossible, 
 the high wind swaying about the suspended skulls in a manner which 
 would blur any sun picture. I offered almost any price (in tobacco) to 
 induce the natives to go up and steady the skulls while the picture was 
 being taken, but nothing would induce them to undertake the task, and 
 most reluctantly I was compelled to trust to the pen, unaided by the 
 camera, for a description of this curious and interesting spot. The 
 protection from the wind afforded by the buildings enabled me to get 
 some street scenes which I valued as indicative of the methodical and 
 orderly habits of the natives. On our way back to the ship we met 
 hundreds of natives who had flocked to sec tlie big ship and its inmates, 
 with an ulterior view of tobacco. We halted for a brief space at 
 Tenaori's place, and I succeeded in picking up a few curiosities. The 
 native teachers and the ir wives, on the General's invitation, came oft' to 
 the ship, and were regaled with nuts, biscuits, and other deUcacies,
 
 76 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 wliicli they tasted probably for the first time in their lives. Before 
 they took their leave, presents of print, mosquito netting, stationery, 
 ami other useful articles were distributed. 
 
 On the 4th October we quitted the Aroma District for Stacey Island, 
 alternatively named South Cape. We gave the reef a wide berth, and 
 came into a stiff south-easter, which gave us a lively time of it for 
 twenty hours, this being the first night under steam since we made 
 Papua. Early on Monday, the 5th, we passed Tree Point on the port 
 quarter, and steering E. by N., left Wedge Rock to starboard, and 
 Rugged Head to port, when we entered the narrow straits called Mairy 
 Pass, formed by the mainland on the north, and Stacey Island on the 
 south. The scenery here is surpassingly beautiful, the most beautiful 
 we have yet visited. The narrowest part of the strait is not more than 
 a mile in width, stretching away to the far east, and is bounded by 
 Leocadi Island, which is crowned with a tree looking from the distance 
 singularly like a lighthouse. The varied tints of green on the steep 
 rises of Stacey Island, the deep azure of the straits, and the woody 
 shores of Bertha Lagoon, dotted with native villages, combined to form 
 a picture delightful to an artist's eye. Nothing seemed to be wanting 
 to complete the charm of this terrestrial paradise. The eye roamed 
 from spot to spot, everywhere resting on fresh and varied beauties. 
 The lights developing the salient points of the glorious panorama of 
 mountain, wood, and water, constantly changing from the shadows 
 cast by flitting clouds. The mountains in the background rise to 
 3,000 feet above the level of Bertha Lagoon, and are covered from 
 base to summit with luxuriant vegetation. The spot will always rest 
 in my memory as the most beautiful I ever saw. The lagoon at its 
 mouth is about 1,500 yards across, but widens considerably within. 
 At 9 a.m. we anchored 300 yards from shore opposite the Mission 
 Station of Suau, the native name for Stacey Island. The South Cape 
 Missionary having died some time previous, his duties devolved upon 
 his widow, who discharged them most efliciently, and to the entire 
 satisfaction of the mission authorities. Anxious to preserve some
 
 Plate XXIX. 
 NATIVE HOUSE AT THE VILLAGE OF KAMALI 
 
 lleference page 65,
 
 BERTHA LAGOON. 
 
 77 
 
 solar pictures of the exquisite scenery around, I took the dingy imme- 
 diately after breakfast, and paddled ashore to the westerly point of 
 the lagoon, in company with Mr. Rossiter, our second officer, who 
 was deputed to superintend the cutting of a load of grass for our 
 sheep on board.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SOUTH CArE. 
 
 Bertlia Lagoon — Garilii — Ascent of the Peak — East shores of the Lagoon — Under 
 weigh — The Brumer Group — Rendezvous at Dinner Island — Mui-der of Captain Miller 
 — Livestigations at Teste Islands. 
 
 EAVING our grass cutting party, Mr. Bubb (my assistant) 
 v^[J)jS®^ and myself, accompanied by Mr. Smart, our third engi- 
 ^^i^yXSk ^^^^^'' wended our way to Garihi, a village facing the 
 ^^^s^^^^ straits, from which our vessel lying at anchor was visible 
 in the distance. We took the precaution to carry arms, but had no 
 occasion to handle them, as the villagers received us literally with open 
 arms, less, perhaps, out of feelings of platonic affection, than from 
 ulterior views relative to tobacco. Our guides took us to the centre of 
 the village, where a space about ten feet in diameter was rudely flagged 
 with stones from the beach. Round the outside of this pavement large 
 flat stones were set on edge in the ground at an angle like the backs of 
 chairs. We were invited to be seated, and the chiefs and headmen of 
 the place were presented to us. I gave the old warriors a few sticks of 
 tobacco each, and to the women and children a dozen or two tin plates 
 ornamented with stamped letters, and a kangaroo in the centre. These 
 gifts were much appreciated, and yams, sweet potatoes and cocoa-nuts 
 were heaped up in front of us as return presents. We then had a 
 smoke, and Mr. Smart, by some conjuring tricks, in which he was an 
 adept, first terrified, and then diverted the simple-minded natives. The 
 wind being too high for photographing, we inspected some of the
 
 Plate XXX. 
 
 THE CHIEF'S SPIRE HOUSE AT KALO (IX COURSE 
 
 OF RECONSTRUCTION). 
 
 Reference page 67.

 
 SOUTH CAPE. 79 
 
 interiors, and were amazed at the accumulation of rubbish which they 
 contained. They keep all the skulls of wild pigs killed in hunting, and 
 string them on sticks, tapering from the largest size to the smallest. 
 These queer trophies are put in the side of the verandah as ornaments, 
 much as an English Nimi'od decorates his entrance hall with stags' 
 antlers and foxes brushes. Human skulls also find a place, but these 
 are suspended by strings and ornamented with white cowrie shells and 
 tufts of grass. When swayed about by the wind, these shells tinkle on 
 touching each other. Immediately over the front entrance the spears 
 and other weapons are displayed, and one or two drums hang handy 
 for use, while the large conch shell used in war and when out pig- 
 hiuiting is invariably found in this part of the house. A little further 
 back the seines and crayfish nets are suspended when dry, and the large 
 meshed nets used in hunting are also carefully kept there. Behind 
 them a little fence not more than 2 feet 6 inches high, divides the 
 house into two apartments, the back one serving as kitchen, dining- 
 room, and sleeping place. Their women perform the cooking and oihw 
 household duties, the front apartment being used by the men, should 
 the weather be rainy or boisterous. The houses in this locality are 
 only one storey high, and the floor is on a level with the eaves of the 
 roof. The interior consequently is triangular, and a man can only 
 stand upright in the very centre, as all sorts of household utensils are 
 inserted between the rafters and thatch, and overhead one or more 
 shelves carry suspicious looking bundles containing the smoke-dried 
 bones of deceased relatives. I was presented at my request with several 
 of their conch shells, and in exchange for a long knife secured a w* 11- 
 made net used for pig-hunting. On our walk to the beach we noticed 
 a large war canoe, made of an immense log of very buoyant tinil)er, 
 with the sides regularly built u[) of large planks of the same wood. 
 The stem and stern were rudely ornamented with carvings and painted 
 with red, white and black pigment, the only three colours in use among 
 them. On one side of the canoe a log was attached as ;ni outrigger, 
 enabling the craft to live in a pretty heavy sea. As we had outstayed 
 our ap[)ointed time, and there was a possibility of our own bnat ha\ ing 
 
 N
 
 80 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 rcturiu^d without us, we determined to go baek iu this canoe, the native 
 who liad sold me the net agreeing to put us on board. Although wind 
 and (i(K! were both dead against us, we reached the ship safe and dry, 
 though not without danger, the overloaded canoe leaking to such an 
 extent as to keep a boy constantly bailing. After bath and luncheon 
 we landed near the Mission Station on Stacey Island with our guns, and 
 procured the services of two or three native boys to guide us up the 
 peak, which is about 800 feet high. After a walk of half a mile along 
 the beach we turned sharp up the precipitous side of the cliff, whose 
 ascent was anything but easy. The formation is conglomerate, broken 
 up into the most fantastic shapes, the roots of the trees interlacing with 
 the stones, furnishing facilities for climbing the steep track. Bright 
 plumagcd parrots, satin birds, and New Guinea magpies flew about in 
 numbers, and the tracks of wild pigs were everyw^here visible. Our 
 route lay up the bed of a stream almost dry at this season. In some 
 places, however, the ascent was so steep that I was under the necessity 
 of giving my gun to a little native boy, whose bare feet enabled him to 
 negotiate the obstacles without the slipping and stumbling incurred by 
 the heavily shod Avhite man. About six hundred feet above the sea 
 level we met a native woman carrying a heavy load of yams on her 
 back in the usual net, secured by a band across her forehead, the weight 
 thus being divided between her spine and her hips. A little higher we 
 skirted the plantation Avhere she had been working, the freshly dis- 
 turbed earth indicating the spot whence the yams had been taken. 
 Emerging from the thick undergrowth, we came upon a slope covered 
 with coarse grass eight or nine feet high, and in places entirely conceal- 
 ing us from view. After passing another plantation where taro was 
 cultivated and thriving, we came to a rocky place near the summit, and 
 sat down for a rest and smoke. Eastward was another peak about a 
 hundred feet higher, but a shoAver of rain coming on, we took shelter in 
 a little thicket, and left the ascent of the highest point to some more 
 energetic explorers. The rain soon passed over, and the dispersing 
 clouds disclosed a wonderfully beautiful tropical panorama, forest, sea, 
 and mountains being spread before us in endless varietv. To our ridit,
 
 Plate XXXI. 
 MOURXERS AND DEAD HOUSE AT KALO. 
 
 Reference page 68.

 
 SOUTH CAPE. 81 
 
 Mairi Pass and Catamaran Bay ; and, far away in the distance, the 
 waters of Mihie Bay. Beneath our feet lay Bertha Lagoon, the Cloudy 
 Mountains rising from its edge, and the hills of Farm Peak, ^loudiri, 
 and Debadeba, the country of the Cannibals, sharply outlined by the 
 setting sun, stretched away to our left. To the southward we could 
 plainly see the narrow neck of land, part of Stacey Island, which forms 
 what is marked on the chart South Cape. It is in fact much narrower 
 than indicated on the map, being in one place not more than a mile in 
 width from beach to beach. The immediate foreground to the north 
 consisted of the densely wooded slope we had just ascended, Avliich hid 
 our vessel and the mouth of the Lagoon from view. On our way back 
 we bagged half a dozen different kinds of birds, but a beautiful black 
 scrub pheasant we lost in the jungle, where even the sharp eyes of our 
 native boys were at fault. We returned to the ship at 6 p.m., and early 
 next morning I went ashore to attempt some photographs, as our 
 departure was fixed for 11 a.m., and I was unwilling to leave this lovely 
 locality without some views. Fortunately the wind had moderated, 
 and I was able to get some very characteristic pictures, both of scenery 
 and houses, with native groups. The people were most obliging, and 
 did everything in their power to please us. There is little or no timber 
 on Stacey Island available for building purposes, but at Bertha Lagoon 
 all along its Eastern shores and close to the water's edge, we found 
 quantities of red and white mangrove, and huge Malava trees, the latter 
 not unlike the walnut-tree in shape and foliage. The country seemed 
 thickly populated, and up the rugged slopes of the Cloudy Mountains we 
 saw many columns of smoke, indicating the presence of man. ^Vq 
 visited some half dozen villages, rowing across the lagoon several times, 
 and the day being warm drank sufiicient cocoa-nut milk to float a ship. 
 The huts, generally speaking, had an appearance of age, a sign in itself 
 of peace prevailing among the various tribes. We got back to the ship 
 at 10.30, and breakfasted before getting under way. 
 
 It appears that we have a rendezvous at Dinner Island with several 
 men-of-war, to inquire into and possibly punish the murder of Captain (?) 
 Fryer, at Hoop Iron Bay, Moresby Island. Leaving the Straits by the
 
 H2 riCTUKESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 wjiy wc entered them, and passing AVedge Rock on the port side, we 
 si<Thtcd Tassai, the village on Brumer Island. This group comprises 
 one larger and one smaller island, with two or three lesser islets. To 
 the south-east, when abreast of the passage between the two first men- 
 tioned of the Brumer group, Dumoulin Island, distant twenty-five miles, 
 becomes visible due east, Castori and Arch Islands, about twenty miles 
 away, are seen east-north-cast, and Heath Island, towards which we are 
 heading, shows its high peak eighteen miles to tlie north-east. The 
 double island named Leocadi, with the sea breaking over the connecting 
 reef, is visible five miles off on the port quarter Avith its solitary light- 
 house looking tree. Shaping our course through the inner passage 
 between Heath Island and the mainland of New Guinea, and carefully 
 navigating the strong tide-rips that run through it, we sighted Dinner 
 Island at 2.20 and dropped anchor 200 yards from the beach half-an- 
 hour later. We are now in China Straits, and the wonderful beauty of 
 the island scenery surrounding us has not been overrated. Dinner 
 Island itself is not more than 200 feet high at any point, but is a para- 
 dise of lovehness. To our right, in the south-west, tower the ranges of 
 Heath Island, 1,000 feet high. Three or four miles in the opposite 
 direction are the mountains of Hayter Island ; towards the east the hill 
 chains of Basilisk and Moresby Island loom in the hazy distance, and 
 behind us towards the north the lofty ranges of the mainland, wooded 
 from base to summit, rise abruptly from the shore. On reaching the 
 anchorage at Dinner Island we found ourselves the first at the rendez- 
 vous. The Mission Boat came out to us brino-ino- the unwelcome news 
 of fresh outrages. It appears that Captain ]\Iiller, well known in Cook- 
 town, had lately come to these parts and commenced trading in beche- 
 de-mer and copra. He had built a store and temporary dwelling on an 
 islet called Koilao, separated from Heath Island by a channel, quarter 
 of a mile wide and not three miles from Dinner Island. With some 
 mates he established several trading stations among the islands of this 
 Archipelego ; as matters were apparently prospering he determined to 
 build a better house on the Island of Digaragara, opposite Normanby 
 Island, which contains plenty of timber suitable for the purpose.
 
 MURDER OF CAPTAIN MILLER. 83 
 
 Accordingly he proceeded there in his cutter, taking with him as crew 
 an Italian named Paolo Fidele, a Chinese cook, an Australian aboriginal 
 and his gin, and a native named Bonita. The party, according to 
 Paolo's account, were seated on the beach among a number of natives, 
 talking matters over in a friendly way, when a Xormanby islander, a 
 boy returned from Queensland, came up behind and struck Miller a 
 blow on the back of the neck with a tomahawk. Paolo saw the native 
 coming, but too late to put Miller on his guard, and before he could in- 
 terfere another native cut the unfortunate man's throat with a long 
 knife. No general massacre was attempted, and Miller was just able to 
 walk to the boat when he expired from loss of blood. Paolo states that 
 he fired at the first aggressor but apparently Avithout eftcct. The cutter 
 then put off" and made for Milne Bay, where Miller had a branch store, 
 to warn a young Englishman named Cotterill and a Chinaman in charge 
 of their danger. They brought Cotterill off with them, l)ut the China- 
 man could not be induced to leave. The cutter then proceeded to 
 Dinner Island, where MiUer's body was decently interred near the 
 IMission Station, and the party being apprehensive that their lives were 
 still in danger left on the morning of our arrival for Teste Island, where 
 the natives are known to be friendly. 
 
 The " Diamond" not having yet arrived, the General decided to pro- 
 ceed next day to Teste Island to collect evidence for the identification 
 and punishment of the murderers. AVe accordingly started at 7 a.m. on 
 the 8th October, weather showery and cool, wind south-west and sea 
 smooth. An hour later we passed Blanchard Island and noticed a small 
 island near its eastern extremity, covered with beautiful grassy slopes 
 and having a cocoa-nut grove at the end opposite Blanchard, while at 
 its eastern extremity gigantic Casuarina trees reared their feathery 
 branches against the sky. At 8.30 we passed Beehive Island, and 
 sighted Bell Rock and Teste Island. Hayter and Moresby Islands were 
 on our port side, with heavy clouds hanging on their mountain tops. 
 At 9 o'clock we opened up the entrance to Fortescue Straits formed by 
 Margaret and O'Xeil Islands, and separating Basilisk from Moresby 
 Island. AVe next passed Hoop Iron Bay, where Captain Frver was so
 
 84 riCTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 recently mnrdcrcd. A cutter which wc sighted and supposed to be the 
 crall we were in pursuit of turned out, on closer acquaintance, to be a 
 rock which bore a singular resemblance to a boat, the illusion being 
 hei'ditened by a solitary tree growing on its side, which looked from the 
 distance like a flag. The name of this curious island is marked in the 
 chart as " Foolscap Rock." Teste Island, with Bell Rock quarter point 
 to the westward, lay seven miles ahead, and at 11 o'clock we dropped 
 anchor midway between the land and a huge boulder called Boat Rock. 
 The tides here are very strong, and the under current is so swift that a 
 sinker weighing over two pounds attached to a fishing line would not 
 fetch the bottom. On landing we found two cutters, belonging to the 
 unfortunate Captains Miller and Fryer, the former of which had arrived 
 the day previous with Paolo Fidele and the rest of the party. A neatly 
 built house, with the Union Jack flying from a pole, stood near the 
 beach, and I Avas surprised to find in the proprietor a young man 
 named Kissack, a photographer, formerly owning a studio in Victoria 
 Street, Hotham, a Melbourne suburb. He told me that the doctors 
 advised him to give up photography as the worry connected with that 
 profession was sure to kill him. So after a spell in a Queensland labour 
 ship as Government Agent, he settled down on Teste Island as a trader, 
 making a tolerably good living by entrusting trade articles to the Teste 
 Island bo3^s, who barter them in the Louisiade Islands and bring back 
 cocoa nuts and hcche-de-mei\ in return for tobacco, pipes, and knives, 
 the market quotations at that time being twenty-eight old cocoa-nuts for 
 one stick of tobacco. By the time the fruit is husked, sliced and dried, 
 and bagged, and the freight paid to Queensland, the profit has dwindled 
 to a very modest sum, and I could not but reflect that with the risk 
 thrown in of being murdered on the slightest provocation the traders 
 deserve all they can make. Meantime the General had been pursuing 
 his inquiries at the Mission House, the result being that Paolo Fidele 
 and his mates are to return with their cutter to Dinner Island, proceed 
 with us to the scene of the outrage and identify the perpetrators if 
 possible.
 
 Plate XXXII. 
 
 VILLAGE SCENE AT KALO, WITH TEACHER AND 
 CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 
 
 Reference page 08.
 
 CHAPTER X, 
 
 SEARCHES FOR ]\nJRDERERS. 
 
 Eetum to Dinner Island — Rendezvous witli H.M.S. Diamond and Rivon — Excur- 
 sion to Heatli Island — Departure for Normauliy Island — Diaveri — An exciting Chase — 
 Fruitless Negociations — Capture of an alleged Murderer — A Mistake and its Rectifica- 
 tion — The real Simon Piu-e — His Adventures in Sydney — Retm-n of the Author in 
 H.M.S. Dart. 
 
 X our return to Dinner Island, where we dropped anchor 
 on the morning of the 10th October, we found II. M.S. 
 " Diamond " awaiting us, and the " Haven " arrived a 
 couple of hours later bringing a small mail from Australia, 
 which afforded me the first news I had received since leaving Sydney. 
 Visits were exchanged between Captain Clayton, Commander of the 
 "Diamond," and H.M. High Commissioner, a salute of honour bein<T 
 fired to the terror and astonishment of the natives on shore and the con- 
 sternation of our poor cat. 
 
 The next day being Sunda}' I determined to make an excursion to 
 some of the adjacent islands, our second officer, Mr. Rossiter, and Mr. 
 Smart, the third engineer, offered to accompany me with Captain Lake's 
 permission, and two sailors volunteered to take an oar each. Thus our 
 crew, including self and assistant, was composed of six men all well 
 armed and quite prepared for any adventure that might befall us. AVc 
 set out at daybreak taking a keg of water, some biscuits, and other pro- 
 visions ample for the day. My photographic instruments were of course 
 not omitted, but it turned out too windy to use them to advantage.
 
 8(; FICTUIiESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Wc lir«t iiiude I'or ii little island about mid-wtiy between Samarai and 
 the mainland of New Guinea. If I recollect rightly, it is named on the 
 chart Middle Island. This little spot, though probably not containing 
 more than ten acres of land and at the highest part not above fifty feet 
 hi'dier than the sea level, is covered with an endless variety of tropical 
 verdure, from the graceful cocoa palm to the wonderful orchid. The 
 rocks and the gnarled stems of the Malavas near the water's edge are 
 now covered with many kinds of dendrobia, some of them in flower; I 
 noticed one beautiful species, white waxlike pendant blossoms, and 
 another with green flowers delicately shaded from olive to brown in the 
 centre. Shells in profusion were found on the beach ; Mr. Smart, being an 
 ardent conchologist, was in his glory, and we experienced some difiiculty 
 in getting him to leave the new wonders he was discovering at every 
 turn. A gigantic white convolvulus attracted our attention, and I col- 
 lected about a dozen kinds of seeds in this locality. Some of each kind 
 I gave to Mr. Guilfoyle, the Director of the Melbourne Botanical 
 Gardens, on my return. It was about 7 a.m. when we pulled away 
 towards Heath Island. We had to row hard to cross a swirling tide- 
 rip, and it took us nearly two hours to reach the smooth water of the 
 little straits that separate Heath Island from Bonarua Island, where 
 ]\Iiller had erected a cobra station not long before his untimely death. 
 The place was then in charge of a family of natives from Heath Island. 
 The Heath Island natives are reputed cannibals, and were said to be at 
 war just then with a tribe from a neighbouring shore. But as we were 
 not actually forbidden the place we made up our minds to visit a few of 
 their villages. Near Miller's store we landed and lit a fire to boil a billy 
 of tea and have some breakfast. We were soon noticed, and the natives 
 flocked around us both from the little island we were on, as also from 
 the shores of Heath Island opposite. There were men, women, and 
 children among the crowd, and they certainly appeared a most peaceful 
 lot of people. After breakfast Smart amused them with his conjuring 
 tricks while we inspected Miller's Store. Several tons of dried cocoa 
 nut (cobra) were stacked up there ready for shipment, but the indus- 
 trious owner now rested peacefully in his grave near the Mission Station
 
 Plate XXXI II. 
 KEREPUNU AVOMEN AT TflE MARKET PLACE OF KALO. 
 
 Reference page 69.
 
 SEARCHES FOR MURDERERS. 87 
 
 at Samarai, beyond all troubles and earthly care. Uproarious merri- 
 ment and laughter recalled us from our meditations, and coming near 
 our boat we found Smart excelling himself to everybody's delight. 
 The natives had no weapons with them, but promised if we would cross 
 to their village they would sell us plenty. The crossing took but a few 
 minutes and we were accompanied by the whole crowd. They had seen 
 and smelt our tobacco, and not receiving visitors often were all the more 
 anxious to trade with us. I asked, and was given permission to inspect 
 a number of their houses, and allowed to handle anything I pleased. 
 On visiting native houses it is absolutely necessary to observe a certain 
 amount of etiquette to avoid giving offence. For instance, I would 
 never dream of entering a house without first inquiring for the owner 
 and obtain his permission to enter. In most cases this is readily given. 
 We had no interpreter on this occasion, and had to manage as best we 
 could with signs and gestures. We came upon flagged places such as I 
 described at Garihi. I interrogated by signs what these places were 
 used for, and they seemed reticent to explain. I had a suspicion that 
 they were used in connection with their cannibal feasts, and in order to 
 facilitate explanation, I first pointed to the flags, and then taking u}) 
 Smart's immense bare arm, I made a movement as though I would take 
 a bite of it. They understood my meaning evidently, for they burst 
 out into immoderate laughter, especially when I, following up the strain, 
 took out my long hunting knife and pretended to kill Smart, suggesting 
 meanwhile to them to get a lire ready to roast him. We visited seven 
 villages during the day, and not to weary the reader I must omit many 
 interesting incidents. We did a roaring trade with tobacco in exchange 
 for weapons and implements. There were lots of skulls hanging up, 
 more or less fractured, which we might have had, and very little per- 
 suasion accom[)anied by tobacco would have secured a few bundles of the 
 smoke-dried remains of their ancestors. But I was chary about bring- 
 ing these interesting objects on board. We had four or five on the sick 
 list and, under these circumstances, a collection of liuman skeletons 
 would scarcely have been considered an acquisition. We i\ tuiiud on 
 board at sundown, after two liours' sinaii rowing against wind and tide, 
 

 
 SS PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Iiaviii<i' travelled over about twenty miles of land and water, but we 
 counted tlie trouble for nothing as against our interesting excursion and 
 tlie considerable additions made during the day to our ethnological 
 collections. 
 
 On Monday, the 12th October, the little flotilla hove anchor and left 
 Dinner Island, the "Diamond" and "Raven" preceding, and the 
 " Governor Blackall " following in their wake. The naval procession up 
 China Straits possessed a certain dignity and solemnity, intensified by the 
 nature of the errand on which it was despatched. The lovely sur- 
 roundings were lighted up by the sun, which broke through the clouds 
 soon after starting and dispersed the haze hanging over the land. The 
 dangerous navigation rendered caution necessary, and we threaded our 
 way through the coral reefs with the greater care from the want of a 
 reliable chart, no adequate survey having yet been made. On our way 
 up the Straits, H.M.S. "Dart" met us and signalled that she had 
 Diaveri, Captain Miller's murderer, in custody on board. Coming 
 alongside the " Diamond " the prisoner was shipped on board that 
 vessel. It appears that the " Dart," on the outrage being reported, Avent 
 direct to the scene of the crime and, through a native interpreter, de- 
 manded the murderer; what ensued is remarkably characteristic of 
 native manners. The culprit himself came voluntarily on board, bring- 
 ing presents to atone for his crime, and to make peace. The commander 
 of the " Dart," however, not viewing homicide in the same light, made 
 him a prisoner and delivered him on board the " Diamond." This duty 
 performed, the " Dart " left us at Cape Ventenat and proceeded with 
 her surveying duties. 
 
 Passing Normanby Island we anchored off Digaragara Island, the 
 scene of the tragedy, in a bay unnamed in the chart, which it has been 
 suggested should be called " Avenger " Bay. The native name of the 
 locality is Negarera. Boats containing armed parties were sent on shore 
 from each of the three vessels about five o'clock in the afternoon, to 
 open up communication with the natives, but although a number were 
 seen ashore at the time of anchoring, no sooner did the boats put off 
 than they vanished like spectres into the dense forest, whence they could
 
 Plate XXXIV. 
 VILLAGE SCENE AT MOAPA, AROMA DISTRICT. 
 
 Ii.efere)ir.f> jxif/e 7k
 
 CAPTURE OF CANOES. 89 
 
 descry our movements, their own being completely hidden from view. 
 Under these circumstances the recall was sounded, and the crews put oft' 
 lor their ships at dusk. On their way several canoes were seen leaving 
 the shelter of a promontory and paddling with all the speed they could 
 towards the north to get out of the bay. Our officers thinking these 
 might be the persons we were in quest of, or at any rate people who 
 could supply information, gave orders to pursue, and a most exciting- 
 chase commenced, the boats' crews giving way with a will, and the 
 canoes, seeing themselves chased, paddling with might and main for tlie 
 shallow water where they would be safe from pursuit. Each boat made 
 a capture, the " Raven " laying alongside a canoe containing three 
 natives, while the " Blackall " boat captured another with two. The 
 little dingy, after a desperate pull, overtook a canoe containing two men 
 within a few boat-lengths of the reef, of whom one took to the water 
 and escaped to the shore. It was nearly seven o'clock when the boats 
 got back, and a signalman from the "Diamond," who was on board the 
 " Blackall," wishing to report progress, used the steam whistle on the 
 Morse principle, giving short and long splashes of sound. He certainly 
 succeeded in making a hideous din, echoed from all the inland hills, 
 whether intelligible or not I cannot say, but our poor prisoners were 
 nearly frightened out of their Avits, being too terrified to swallow the 
 food we gave them. On the arrival of Mr. Chalmers, which took place 
 shortly after, they were interrogated through his means and that of 
 Paolo, and it tmmed out that they were natives of a northern district, 
 who had been on a visit to Negarera. In order to aftbrd Captain 
 Clayton an opportunity of seeing them they were kept in custody till 
 next morning, being stowed away for the night in the boatswain's 
 locker and sailroom, where they must have spent a most miserable night. 
 As they had no information to impart when taken on board the 
 "Diamond" they were sent ashore with a few presents and dismissed. 
 Early next morning, the 13th October, the General and Captain Clayton 
 started on a cruise of inspection round Cape Ventenat, to the village 
 whose inhabitants were known to have participated in the murder of 
 poor Captain ^Miller. I profiting l)y the occasion to borrow the dingy
 
 00 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 to iio asliorc find take some views. I found, hoAvcver, an insurmountable 
 coral reef outlying the whole of the land, and as leaving the boat and 
 thus cutting off our retreat was not to be thought of, we contented our- 
 selves with admiring the marvellous marine formations over which our 
 boat drifted. A party of natives, some ten in number, waded out to- 
 wards us but could not be persuaded to approach closely. At length 
 my assistant met them half way, and giving them some tobacco, with 
 some difficulty induced one of them to trade a spear, which he fetched 
 i'rom shore and, though with great hesitation, brought to the boat. At 
 this point and while we were negotiating for some sea urchins to be got 
 out of the clefts of the coral reef, we were signalled for from the ship, as 
 it was thouo^ht dano^erous to trade with the natives during^ the existino; 
 state of affairs. Later in the morning Captain Lake, with two armed 
 boats' crews, went ashore, pulling round Cape Ventenant and landing at 
 the village, and I was allowed to accompany him, and was fortunate 
 enough to get several good views of this interesting locality. This is 
 the spot which was shelled next day and the houses destroyed, it being 
 the settlement nearest to Digaragara Island, where poor Miller was mur- 
 dered. The few huts along the beach were deserted, but the smoulder- 
 ing fires showed how recently they had been tenanted, and we had no 
 doubt the natives were watching us from their hiding places. In the 
 afternoon Paolo Fidele and two native interpreters were sent ashore, 
 and succeeded in interviewing the old chief, who resolutely refused to 
 come on board, and said it was impossible to give up the accomplices as 
 they had taken to the bush. He further pleaded that the man Diaveri, 
 who actually committed the deed, had gone on board of his own free 
 will to make atonement, and nothing further having been seen of him 
 since he naturally concluded that he had been killed. According to 
 Xormanby Island law, the culprit had done all in his power, and having 
 offered native jewellery in value equal to the Hfe he took, he fully 
 expected to have squared matters. The Chief, from his point of view, 
 thought that our party had treated Diaveri treacherously, and stedfastly 
 refused to have any more parley unless the man was returned. Finally, 
 he ordered interpreters and all to quit the island. Our people withdrew.
 
 THE INTERPRETER'S MISTAKE. 91 
 
 for there was certainly no use in prolonging the interview. Still, as 
 punishment was considered due according to our laws, Sir Peter and the 
 Senior Captain of the Squadron determined to shell the village near 
 which the murder was committed. This, as stated above, was done 
 next morning. Three shells, one of which exploded before reaching the 
 shore, were thrown, to warn any stragglers to clear out. The 
 " Diamond " and "Raven" then sent an armed boat each, and fired a 
 few huts. Signals were then given to proceed on our cruise, and no 
 sooner had we shaped course than the natives appeared on the beach 
 again. We closely scanned their movements thi-ough the glasses but 
 could not discern any signs of distress. I do not think a single native 
 was hurt during the fracas ; in fact, the Commanders never intended to 
 take life, but simply to administer a wholesome lesson. Another 
 incident happened on the previous day which I must not forget to 
 mention. 
 
 During the interview with the old chief the interpreter from Dinner 
 Island recognized among the bystanders, from his red hair, a man 
 named Baelala, who he made certain had taken an active part in the 
 murder of Captain Fryer at Hoop Iron Bay, and so positive Avas he that 
 it was determined to capture and take Baelala on board. The arrest was 
 cleverly effected on trading being commenced, and he was shipped on 
 board the "Diamond," handcuffed, and a sentry placed over him, his 
 wretched wife making the beach resound for hours with shrieks of 
 terror and grief. 
 
 On reaching Hoop Iron Bay a couple of days afterwards, it was 
 found that the interpreter liad made a grievous mistake. A i)arty 
 landing to parley with the natives, the real Baelala turned up. There 
 could be no mistake this time, as the narrative will show, and to make 
 amends it was determined to send the innocent man back to his home 
 immediately. The mistake was interpreted to him, and after being 
 loaded with presents, Mr. Chahncrs personally conducted him to Nega- 
 rera Bay, the "Raven" being told off lor that duty. Tlie joy of his 
 poor wife and friends on his return may be better imagined than 
 described.
 
 92 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Ai'tcr the ])uiii.sliment dealt for the outrage at Digaragara, the fleet 
 proeeedcd to Slade Island, Engineer group, to inquire into the circum- 
 stances of the inurder of a trader named Reid. It was found, however, 
 that this man had been rather a lawless fellow, who for a long time set 
 all native rules and mere common decency at nought. Sir Peter, con- 
 sidering that his fate had been brought about by his bad conduct, 
 decided not to take any further steps in this matter. Hostilities being 
 expected, I was not allowed to land the day we arrived, but matters 
 being amicably settled, enabled me to get a characteristic village view 
 before leaving next day. The houses here being differently built to any 
 place we yet visited, I was very pleased to secure this picture. Many 
 returned Queensland boys were met with here, Mr. Romilly being 
 recognized by all who came on board, having been in charge of the 
 " Victoria" on her cruise to return the natives, who had been labouring 
 on the Queensland Plantations. 
 
 The Slade Island affair being thus disposed of, we steamed west- 
 ward, and soon reached Moresby Island. We anchored about mid-day 
 at Hoop Iron Bay, where the above-mentioned episode with Baelala 
 took place. 
 
 Relations here with the natives were not considered safe, and much 
 to my chagrin I was not allowed to land. Not lying far from shore, 
 I could see several beautiful spots just fit for the camera, and to the 
 west of the ship there stood the skeleton of an enormous Malava tree, 
 its bleached limbs standing out distinctly against the bright green of 
 the tropical forest. The scene reminded me of part of a certain picture 
 by Dor^, and I felt I could have braved a whole village of natives to 
 secure a negative of it. But both Sir Peter, and afterwards Captain 
 Clayton, were inexorable, and much against my inclination I had to 
 stay aboard. 
 
 Before leaving Hoop Iron Bay, the real Baelala gave a minute 
 description of how Fryer was murdered. This will be found amongst 
 the official records of the trip, and need not here be repeated. But an 
 episode from Baelala's life, which he related to us, will not be out of 
 place. It appears that some years ago a trader, whose name I have
 
 Plate XXXV. 
 NATIVE HOUSES AND GRAVES AT SUAU, STAGEY 
 
 ISLAND. 
 
 Reference face 7(>.
 
 AUTHOR'S RETURN HOME. 93 
 
 forgotten, took Baelala to Sydney, and there exhibited him in a tent for 
 money. When the novelty had worn off, and no more could be made 
 out of the poor savage, the unscrupulous fellow simply turned him 
 adrift. For some weeks the Papuan led a precarious existence, picking 
 up bits of food from even the dust-pans and gutters, sleeping about the 
 wharves in any corner he could find. After a while a publican in that 
 neighbourhood took compassion on the homeless man, and in return for 
 various small services fed him and gave him a place to sleep. This 
 affair got talked about in Sydney, and Baron ^liclohon ^laclay, who 
 passed through at that time, chanced to hear of it. Like a good 
 Samaritan the Baron took charge of Baelala, and eventually brought 
 him back to Moresby Island, on his way to the North Coast of New 
 Guinea. 
 
 Towards noon on the 16th October, we anchored again at the road- 
 stead of Dinner Island. Next day the " Harrier" arrived from Cook- 
 town with the Australian Mail. It brought me rather distressing news. 
 My wife's health, delicate always, had become worse, and grave fears 
 were entertained. Though in her own letter there was nothing to cause 
 immediate alarm, my friends urged me if possible to return. It so 
 happened that H.M.S. "Dart" was to leave here for Sydney on the 
 21st to pay off, and ship a fresh crew. When I made my vdsh. to return 
 known to Sir Peter, he seemed to regret the circumstances very much, 
 and expressed the hope that I might be able to accompany him again 
 next season. He also kindly promised to speak to Captain Clayton 
 (who as senior of the station had to be consulted) about a passage home 
 in the "Dart." Captain Clayton consenting. Captain Field, of the 
 *' Dart," courteously acceded to Sir Peter's wish, and I was granted a 
 passage home in that vessel. The time of the change in the trade winds 
 was approaching, and the few days before our departure the weather 
 had been very uncertain. I made several attempts, ]3ut only got one 
 chance of getting a few views of Dinner Island and Anchorage. 
 
 I must not omit to mention that Diavcri was ultimately taken to 
 Port Moresby and liberated there, the laws of the protectorate not 
 allowing a severer punishment than exile.
 
 94 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 We left Dinner Islfind on October 21st, and after a most pleasant 
 voyage reached Sydney on Sunday afternoon, the 1st November. My 
 ctlinological collections I shipped by the "Lyeemoon" to Melbourne, 
 ])ut my negatives, numbering about 128, I took for safety sake with me 
 to Melbourne by rail, arriving on November 3rd, in the middle of tlie 
 bustle and traffic of Cup Day. On reaching home I found the wife's 
 health considerably improved, though not quite restored.
 
 Plate XXXVI. 
 GARIHI VILLAGE, BERTHA LAGOON, SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 Beferencc page 78.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 MR. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 
 
 Visit to Killerton Islands — The Juliade Islands — Eeprisals for the Mui-der of Cap- 
 tain and Mrs. Webb — Colombier Point — Unsuccessfiil attempts to communicate with 
 Natives — Hoisting the Union Jack at Moapa — Inland excursion to Koiari vilhiij^os — 
 Ascent of Mount Variata — Meet Mr. Forbes — Sogeri, Mr. Forbes' Station — Return 
 to Port Moresby and Hula — Bentlej Bay— Ascent of Mount Killerton — Illness 
 of Sir Peter Scratchley — Character of the Coast — The Jabbering Islands — From 
 Collingwood Bay to Cape Nelson — Mountains and Harbours — Departure of the 
 " Blackall" for Australia — Illness of Sir Peter Scratchley — His Death — His Funeral. 
 
 ri^nr^IIE closing scene of the expedition I was not privileged to 
 ^^ ' /^'^(S^ witness, but by the ojreat kindness of Mr. Chalmers I have 
 tS been supplied with a full account of what occurred bc- 
 Si tween my departure iu the "Dart," on the 21st October, 
 and tlic lamented death of Sir Peter Scratchley on the 29th of the fol- 
 lowing month. That I was spared this painful episode I am thankful. 
 I give an abstract of J\Ir. Chalmers' narrative in his own words. It 
 commences with an account of a visit to the Killerton Islands, on the 
 21st October, in consequence of a hostile attitude of the natives of Bon 
 Ijcing reported. On the landing of the General and myself, Mr. 
 Chalmers says, all the natives disappeared. Soon one old man, tlu-ir 
 chief, came out weeping bitterly, and explained the cause of his grief to 
 be the refusal of his men to appear and show the friendliness with the 
 white men and teachers, as they had no (|ii;u'i\l wiih them, but oiilv 
 with the natives of Barabara. I certainly believed in the sincerity of 
 his professions, and subsequently walked over the largest of the group,
 
 96 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 finding in some parts good pbmtations, a lagoon at the cast end, and a 
 very good mission station at the west. On the 22nd we returned to 
 Dinner Island, and on the 23rd anchored between Dufaure Islands and 
 the mainland in a very tine harbour, which it is proposed to call Port 
 Scratchley. In the afternoon we landed, and, after meeting the good 
 old Chief ]\Ieandi (since dead), we strolled into the thick tropical bush 
 with which the island abounds. From sea level to summit it is covered, 
 with dense scrub, greatly impeding exploration. The " Ellengowan," 
 which arrived this day from Cooktown, brought the ships' mails, which 
 rejoiced all on board. 
 
 On Saturday, the 24th, we weighed anchor and proceeded to the 
 Juliade Islands, where the " Blackall " and "Diamond" remained, the 
 General and myself going on board the " Raven" to Port Milport, the 
 scene of the murder of Captain and Mrs. Webb. The object of sending 
 one vessel only was to invite a collision with the natives. As soon, 
 however, as they saw the ship they commenced clearing out, and sought 
 shelter in the scrub behind the villages, where it was impossible to 
 follow them without great risk and with no reasonable probability of 
 any substantial result. As they persistently declined to show them- 
 selves, the villages where the skulls of the victims were said to be were 
 shelled and destroyed on Monday morning. This step, I have since 
 heard from Toulon, has had a very good effect, the people being 
 thoroughly frightened and sorry for their conduct, without indiscri- 
 minate and unnecessary effusion of the blood of not only men, but 
 women and children who, in all probability, took no part in the out- 
 rages. Although these cannot be defended, much less exculpated, it 
 must be borne in mind that Captain Webb and his wife owed their fate 
 to their own rashness. They were warned not to venture among the 
 natives of this island, who were known to be treacherous and unfriendly, 
 and as the result of their temerity they were attacked and killed soon 
 after setting foot on shore. After the return of the "Raven" to Port 
 Milport, the "Blackall" steamed to Aroma, where Koapena was taken 
 on board, and the three vessels rendezvoused in Cloudy Bay, proceeding 
 thence to Colombier Point, where the village of Dedele formerly stood
 
 Plate XXXVII. 
 
 "BOATING SCENE," BERTHA LAGOON: THE CLOUDY 
 MOUNTAINS IN DISTANCE. 
 
 Reference pi If) e 79,
 
 
 %
 
 MR. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 97 
 
 ])ut was destroyed a few years back by H.M.S. " Beagle." Our object 
 was to open up communications with the natives and make the bay safe 
 for heche-de-mer fishermen. However, although we found some small 
 lean-over huts, showing that the people are beginning to return, we saw 
 no human beings, and had to content ourselves with sending peaceful 
 messages through the Aroma people, to the effect that we should call 
 again and hoped to see them. In the evening the " Blackall " left for 
 Port Moresby, and I accompanied the General on board the " Diamond." 
 Next morning, October 30th, an armed party was landed from both 
 vessels and marched from Keppel Point to Moapa for the purpose of 
 hoisting the flag. Before this ceremony was performed Captain Clayton 
 insisted on the skulls of the murdured Chinamen being taken down and 
 buried, which was done by the teachers, as no native dared touch them. 
 This being done Captain Clayton and the General, accompanied by 
 Koapena, followed by the other officers, marched to the chief's house 
 Avhere a flagstaff had been erected, and Captain Clayton addressed the 
 chief and people in the following terms : — 
 
 "Koapena and people of Aroma! On behalf of Iler Most Gra- 
 cious Majesty Queen Victoria, I have come here to hoist this flag 
 to-day. It will be to you a token of friendship and an emblem of jDeace, 
 and in all future dealings with her people you will keep a kindly 
 remembrance ever before you. If at any time the white man should 
 offend against your customs, you will at once report the matter to the 
 proper autliorities, and they will see that justice is properly dealt towards 
 you. Rest assured that Queen Victoria will ever regard you as her 
 own children, and as she cherishes lier children so will she cherish you, 
 and bear in mind that when the white man comes among you, you must 
 treat him well, and on no account interfere with him, always remember- 
 ing that the ceremony you have seen performed this day is the abiding 
 emblem of peace and lasting good will. God save the Queen ! " The 
 I'nioii Jack was then hoisted, a feu-de-joie fired, and the "Diamond" 
 gave a royal salute of twenty-one guns ; the band playing the National 
 Anthem. Great enthusiasm and excitement prevailed among the 
 natives, of whom some 3,000 were present, and no dissatisfaction of any
 
 98 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 kind was evinced. We all then marched back, followed by a great 
 crowd showing the most friendly disposition, and when about half way 
 to the ship an invitation from Koapena was conveyed to Captain Clayton 
 that all should sit down and take refreshment. This hospitality was 
 accepted, and soon native lads were seen climbing trees in all directions 
 and throwing down cocoa-nuts, which were opened and handed round by 
 others, while Koapena, sitting on the platform of his plantation, superin- 
 tended all the proceedings. After this interesting episode he came on 
 board the " Diamond," and was much interested in all he saw. He 
 made an earnest application for the release of the prisoner Diaveri who 
 was on board, and begged that he might not be hung. In the evening we 
 left Aroma, and, steaming slow all night, were off Port Moresby in the 
 morning of the 31st October. The following day the " Blackall" left 
 for Townsville with Mr. Askwith, who was much prostrated by fever, 
 the General and his private secretary remaining on shore. 
 
 The High Commissioner being anxious to visit inland, and if pos- 
 sible to get as far as Sogeri, where H. 0. Forbes had his head camp, a 
 party was formed, and on Wednesday, the 4th November, started at 
 daylight. The sun was very hot by the time we got to the creek, 
 where we decided to breakfast. About 1 p.m., when the south-east 
 breeze found us out, we started for the nearest Koiari village, Sadara, 
 where we arrived about 4 p.m. We pitched our camp on a spur about 
 one mile from the village. The General was tired, but nothing much. 
 After dinner he got to his hammock, and was soon asleep. The next 
 morning we were away by dawn, and reached the foot of the Astrolabe 
 about 9.30, where we breakfasted. After a rest we ascended the 
 mountain at A'ariata, 2,500 feet, and there we remained some time. It 
 was cheering to see the General in such good spirits and splendid 
 walking trim. We Avalked leisurely into Taburi, where we arrived 
 about 3.30 p.m. About 5.30 Mr. Forbes arrived on his way to Port 
 Moresby. We arranged with him he should return with us to Sogeri, 
 and all come to port the following week. We all sat long after dinner 
 chatting, and the most lively of the party was the General. The next 
 morning we were away earty, and after crossing the river about three
 
 MB. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 99 
 
 miles inland of Taburi, we kept on until mid-day, having had breakfast 
 at camp in the morning. In a pleasant shade by a small stream we 
 rested, and had something to eat. Accompanied by Mr. Sharpe (a 
 young missionary), who was one of the party, I started for Xakari, to 
 arrange the camp for the night. Assisted by the people of the village, 
 we soon had tents up and water boiling. About five the General and 
 his party came in just in time to avoid heavy rain, the first we have had 
 in all our wanderings. We got a pig from the chief, which greatly 
 pleased our carriers, and added new life to the camp. 
 
 The following morning, after breakfast, we struck camp, and got 
 speedily into marching order. It was fine, bright weather, and the 
 ground being less difiicult than hitherto, we succeeded in reaching 
 Sogeri before nightfall. On our way Mount Owen Stanley had been 
 visible to its summit, while on our right Mounts Bellamy and Nisbet 
 marked the lay of the Stanley range till the view was stopped by Blount 
 Obree, whose lofty mass rises over ten thousand feet above sea level. 
 Mr. Forbes had sent on a native attendant of our party to warn his 
 Malay servants of our approach, so that we had a warm welcome, and a 
 good set meal ready for us by the time we had refreshed ourselves with 
 a wash, and settled the quarters for the night. 
 
 The next day was a day and " the day " of rest. The General 
 made a careful inspection of the station, and congratulated Mr. Forbes 
 warmly on his arrangements, promising material assistance for his 
 explorations. ]\Ir. Forbes' house, built of native materials, stood on 
 the steep side of a natural basin, without doubt the crater of an extinct 
 volcano ; through it ran a small river ; on the opposite side of the crater 
 stood the native village, backed by steep and thickly wooded crags 
 reaching to the summit of Mount Owen Stanley. ]\lr. Forbes discoursed 
 with Sir Peter on the explorations he had made and contemi)lated, on 
 the observations in which he was engaged, and showed the natural 
 history specimens he had collected. 
 
 The next day our party, including Mr. Forbes, started on the 
 return journey to Port Moresby through an undulating country, with a 
 dry, parched soil, stunted gum-trees, and occasional extensive patches
 
 100 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 of long, coarse grass. It was a good hunting country, swarming with 
 walhiby and pig. We encamped for tlie night before commencing the 
 rougli ascents of the Astrolabe range, and l)y the evening of the third 
 da}' we reached Port Moresby. The whole journey had been accom- 
 plished without danger, and without any serious fatigue. Our native 
 attendants Avere rewarded with presents of red cloth, fish-hooks, and 
 tobacco, and went off with shouts and rejoicing to the fishing village of 
 Hula, to which they belonged. 
 
 The General stayed at his quarters at Port Moresby till the return 
 of the "Governor Blackall" on the 15th, when he resumed command, 
 and on the 19th proceeded to Milne Bay, passing on the 20th into 
 hitherto unsurveyed waters at the head of the bay to a place called 
 Maivara. From here to Bentley Bay, the most southerly portion of the 
 N.E. coast, calling on the way at Killerton Islands, and as reports 
 were rife of the Bentley Bay natives and their antagonism to white 
 men, and feeling sure it was a mistake, we arranged a party to test it. 
 By six the following morning (21st), we left the ship and the General, 
 and on landing got a number of natives as carriers. We followed the 
 creek for some miles until we reached the Stirling Range, ascended 
 Mount Killerton, where we had breakfast. It was indeed cold on the 
 top, and I was glad when the descent on the other side was begun. It 
 was very steep, and in many places merely side paths like goat paths 
 along the side of precipices. On our arrival at the first village, the 
 women at once got us water to drink, and set to cooking yams, taro, 
 and bread-fruit for us and party, several of them bringing us fine ripe 
 bananas. All were exceedingly friendly, and showed no appearance of 
 timidity. The "Raven" passing to the anchorage, we went along the 
 beach with a crowd of men, women, and children increasing at every 
 village, until we came opposite the anchorage, when there were several 
 hundreds all anxious to show us some kindness, supplying us with an 
 abundance of mangoes and cocoa-nuts. We were kindl}^ entertained on 
 board the "Raven" by Commander Ross and his officers until the 
 arrival of the "Blackall" about 4.30 p.m. On going on board we 
 found the General in his cot on deck, and complaining of feeling out of
 
 Plate XXXVIII. 
 MAGIRI VILLAGE, BERTHA LAGOOX, SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 lief erence page 79.
 
 MR. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 101 
 
 sorts, restless, and no appetite. It was evident from his appearance, 
 also, he was in the first stage of fever. Fearing he might grow worse, I 
 suggested that if not better in the morning we should return ; Mr. 
 Forbes and I remain at South Cape, and he with the " Blackall " pro- 
 ceed at once to Australia. He decidedly objected to go back until he 
 had been to the Boundary or Mitre Rock. On the 22nd we steamed 
 close in shore through Bentley Bay, Bartle Bay, Goodenough Bay to 
 Rawden Bay, where we had anchored. The coast all along these bays 
 looks poor indeed, much worse even than that about Port Moresby. 
 In many places the mountains run steep to the sea, and in no })lace we 
 saw could settlement be made. Two peaks not on charts, but standing 
 out and well defined, we named Lady Scratchley Peak and Mount 
 Service, and the nomenclature has since been reported to the Royal 
 Geographical Society. I again suggested to the General we should at 
 once return and hurry on to Australia, but to no effect, as he insisted 
 on seeing Mitre Rock. 
 
 On the 23rd we rounded Cape Vogel to the Jabbering Islands, 
 where we anchored. AVe spent several hours ashore with the natives, 
 climbing the sandstone cliffs, and walking back into the country, which 
 was poor, and terribly burned up for want of rain. The natives were 
 very noisy, and yet very friendly. Their houses were small, miserable 
 huts, built on posts, with small verandahs on the side, on which cooking 
 was done. They have earthenware pots as in other parts, in shape 
 similar to Teste Island. On the morning of the 24th we were away 
 from oiu* Jabbering friends, through CoUingwood P>ay, keeping close in 
 round Hardy Point to Cape Nelson, and passing many good harbours, 
 one of which wc named Fort Harbour after our hearty, pleasant friend, 
 the private secretary, whose life seemed entirely devoted to the General. 
 AVhen in good health, he and the General appeared as if fjither and son; 
 the General becoming sick, Fort, as a son, nursed him day and night, 
 assisted by Dr. Glanville. Only when Fort was near the cot was the 
 General satisfied. 
 
 Two very high mountains seen to-day, and position taken, were 
 named Mount Romilly and Mount Ross, the former al\er the well-
 
 102 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 known Western Pacific Commissioner, and the latter after the excellent 
 commander of the " Raven." Rounding Cape Nelson we skirted the 
 sliore of Porlock Bay to Dyke Acland Bay, and anchored about 3.30 
 p.m. near to Cape Sud Est. 
 
 Before coming to Hardy Point Mount Nelson was very distinct, and 
 had all the appearance of a crater on its east side, and certainly there 
 were more on board in favour of its being a living volcano than against 
 it. Heavy clouds hung over the top, and at various places long jets of 
 steam appeared to rise. The country we passed to-day seemed much 
 better and more suitable for agricultural purposes. Early on the 25th 
 we were under way, and passed some splendid looking country through 
 Holnicote Bay, round Caution Point to Richie Island, and on to Mitre 
 Rock. The country was well wooded, with apparent large plains ; a 
 very good harbour is just on our side of 8th parallel, which we called 
 Annabella Harbour. Some of us landed on the rock, but not having a 
 line with us we could not ascend. It is in German territory, just 
 beyond the parallel. The General feeling better, seemed to enjoy the 
 sight of the boundary. There was no time to lose, so without anchor- 
 ing we went round and away full speed to the south-east, anchoring in 
 Holnicote Bay. On the morning of the 26th, it being impossible for 
 our good captain to see his way amongst innumerable reefs wdth the 
 sun ahead of him, we landed at a number of small islands named by 
 us " Glanville Islands," after our Zulu Soudan doctor. The natives 
 were noisy and friendly, and came out to the boat quite unarmed. 
 They are dark, and very much like the natives of Motumotu, only they 
 are circumcised, which is unknown on the south-east coast. Their 
 ornaments were very poor, and they seemed to have little to trade. 
 About ten we were under way, and steamed through Dyke Acland Bay, 
 where we saw a large river, wdiich seemed to drain all the back country. 
 We called the river "Rossitter River," after our second mate. There 
 seems a very large mangrove fringe all round this bay. We anchored 
 about 6 p.m. in Porlock Bay, and the following morning at six o'clock 
 pulled in shore, and into a large inlet or lagoon, w^hich w^e named 
 " Clayton Inlet." We rowed up what seemed to be a river, and were met
 
 Plate XXXIX. 
 
 GROUP AXD NATIVE HOUSE, MAIRY PASS. MAINLAND 
 OF NEW GUINEA IN THE DISTANCE. 
 
 Reference page 80.
 
 ME. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 103 
 
 by a noisy crowd all unarmed, and extremely anxious to trade with us. 
 There was no mistaking their friendliness, and we allowed them round 
 the boat as friends. We pulled out of the inlet, and round on to the beach, 
 where we landed and again met the people. They had very few things 
 worth trading for. They were greatly delighted with pocket handker- 
 chiefs, and danced and shouted when they possessed a piece of red cloth. 
 
 Getting on board we were under way by eight o'clock, and steam- 
 ing all day we anchored at the Jabbering Islands about 6 p.m. "We did 
 not think the General looked worse, only he complained of feeling 
 terribly prostrated, and at night could not sleep. He would not take 
 quinine in any form whatever. On Saturday (28th) before daylight, 
 we were under way and off for Lydia, where we arrived about 2 p.m. 
 We spent several hours ashore, and everywhere met with kindness. 
 Several boys from Queensland were here, who told us frequently, 
 " White man no good. New Guinea man very good ; " " White man no 
 gammon, too much fight." 
 
 When passing through Chads Bay, we had difficulty in getting 
 canoes alongside. One approaching with clothed men, our interpreter 
 recognized boys as some who had been returned in " Victoria," and 
 knew they belonged to a place where a labour vessel killed several 
 natives and stole quite a large number. Of the latter were some of 
 those in the canoe. 
 
 On Sunday morning, the 29th, the General was much worse. We 
 arrived at Dinner Island about 10 a.m., got mails on board, and away 
 to Suau. When reading his letters he seemed to revive, and spoke quite 
 hopefully and pleasantly of his return next year, when together we 
 should do the north-east coast and D'Entrecasteaux Group well, visiting 
 every nook and corner, and making excursions inland, meeting the 
 vessel at points decided on. 
 
 At 2 p.m. Mr. Forbes and I landed at South Cape, and the " Black- 
 all" steamed away for Australia, we hoping that the next news would 
 be that our good kind General would have quite recovered, and that a 
 quiet rest in Ilobart with Lady Scratchier and family would set him up 
 for another season.
 
 101 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 On the " Raven " coming to take us to Port Moresby, Commander 
 Ross told us the sad, sad news, that the General was dead, died when 
 near Townsville — the natives, knowing by our looks something had 
 happened, pressed round to know, and on being told, they too felt full 
 of sorrow as for a friend. He was much respected on board, and by all 
 who met him. He was kind and true, would do his duty, and never 
 mind the consequences. He came rather prejudiced against natives, he 
 left their friend, and much interested in them. He would have done a 
 splendid work if only he had lived two years more, and laid the basis of 
 a good government that both races would have felt to be for their 
 benefit. 
 
 We all deeply sympathize with Lady Scratchley and her family in 
 their great sorrow. 
 
 The remains of General Scratchley were brought to Melbourne in 
 the " Governor Blackall," and temporarily interred in the St. Kilda 
 Cemetery on the 16th December, 1885. The Dean of Melbourne and 
 clergy performed the funeral service. Sir Henry Loch was present in 
 person, and all the Australian colonies. Governmental departments, 
 civic bodies, and learned professions were largely represented. The 
 pall-bearers were Mr. Fort, Captain Lyster, Lieutenant-Colonel Sargood, 
 Major-General Downes, Colonel Roberts, Mr. J. C. Tyler, Mr. James 
 Service (Premier of Victoria), and Colonel Trench. The '* Melbourne 
 Age," of December 17th, describing the occasion, says : — 
 
 " The half-masted flags floating yesterday over Melbourne, the pre- 
 dominance of sombre costumes among civilians, and the presence of 
 officers bearing mourning badges hurrying ofi" to their rendezvous, be- 
 tokened the day to be one of sorrowful observance. The duty of the 
 day was that of pajdng the last tribute of respect to the memory of the 
 late Sir Peter Scratchley, High Commissioner for New Guinea, by 
 honouring his remains with a public funeral, attended by his Excellency 
 the Governor in person, a special representative of Lord Carrington, 
 Governor of New South Wales, and deputies from all the Australian 
 colonies. The ministry of Victoria, the consular body, the bench, the 
 bar, the other learned professions, and the local forces contributed to
 
 Plate XL. 
 
 YOUNG COCOA-NUT TREES ON STACEY ISLAND; 
 FARM PEAK IN THE DISTANCE. 
 
 lleference page 81 .
 
 MB. CHALMERS' NARRATIVE. 105 
 
 swell the procession, which was upwards of a mile in length, its route 
 being lined by thousand of serious and orderly spectators." 
 
 Such was the fatal termination of an expedition which had about it, 
 from first to last, an air of romance and adventure, which acquired in- 
 formation respecting the south coast and immediate interior of New 
 Guinea far in excess of any previously obtained, and which, it is con- 
 fidently hoped, has prepared the way for the settlement of a valuable 
 British possession.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 
 BY JAMES CHALMERS, F.R.G.S. 
 
 I. 
 
 Veata of Maiva. 
 
 IKE all other savages, the Papuans are a prey to supersti- 
 tion. As an example of the beliefs they entertain, and 
 the fears they cherish, I will narrate my adventures with 
 a great sorcerer, a Maivan, dreaded by his countrymen on 
 account of the power he is supposed by them to possess. Like other 
 pretenders of the same class, he was himself the dupe of his own caba- 
 listic juggleries, and as big a coward as the simple folk who hung upon 
 the rites he practised. I had often heard of this man, but never met 
 him personally till, when in Maiva, I was presented at an inland village 
 with a broken crystal, and on inquiring if there were others of the same 
 kind about, I was informed the}^ all came from the vicinity of Mount 
 Yule, but that one in particular, by common report surpassing all 
 others, was in the possession of Veata, the mighty sorcerer, never to be 
 seen by mortal eye except his own, for no other person could look on it 
 and live. One of our teachers hearing of it, and thinking, I suppose, it 
 was some precious stone, offered the sorcerer several tomahawks only to 
 be allowed to see it. On returning to the coast I went to my friend 
 ^liria, and asked him to use his influence with Ycata to show me his 
 burning jewel. " Yes," he replied, "but I am afraid ; I myself have 
 never seen it, although he is my cousin, and should he show it to you
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 107 
 
 will you not die ? " " Xo, Miria, that cannot kill me ; " and then I told 
 him of the many charms, fetisches, &c., I had from other places. He 
 was evidently distressed, for after thinking the matter over, he said, 
 "Were there only two Tamates it would be right one to die and one 
 to live ; we have only one, and cannot get another." " Miria, do not 
 be alarmed. I can look on all Veata's things and know I will live." 
 " Well, I wHl ask him." 
 
 After some time, Veata and Miria came into the house, and, sitting 
 down in front of me, I asked the former if the latter had spoken to him 
 of what I was anxious to see. Veata looked steadily at me, and said, 
 " My friend Tamate, I would, but I am afraid, very much afraid. Xo 
 living soul but my sister and me has ever seen those things, and you 
 know very frightened Maiva is." " Veata, friend, do not be afraid, your 
 kohu goods cannot injure me, and I alone will see them." " To-night I 
 will return, and you will see them, and no one but ourselves must be in 
 the house." "Good, friend, now do not deceive me." 
 
 He is a man some forty years old, about 5 feet 8 inches in height, Avell 
 made, with a peculiar anxious expression and dark restless eyes. He 
 would have been killed long ago, but his party is large and influential, 
 and all of them would rally round him, as, apart from relationship, he is 
 the source of food and property to them. 
 
 Long droughts will bring large quantities of yams, bananas, sugar 
 cane, betel nut, cocoa nuts, pigs, fish, tobacco, arm-shells, ear, neck, and 
 forehead ornaments. 
 
 AVhen one is sick fiiends will do the same. If death follows he is 
 l)lamed. When my old friend Oa died, Veata had to leave for some 
 time, until it was shown by his friends that he could not have caused 
 Oa's death, and the blame was then laid on another. 
 
 This superstition is the source of constant trouble in the Ciulf, and 
 amongst the inland tribes on the Owen Stanley Range. Last year 
 Motu-Motu, on their return from Port Moresby, where they had been 
 trading Avith arrowroot, attacked Kevcri, a district near Cape l*osscs- 
 sion, and killed three men, themselves losing two. Since then they 
 have threatened to return, but were afraid of the teachers at ^laiva, and
 
 108 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 my old savaf^c father, Scmcse, said he would not consent, as he did not 
 wish to break faith with his foreign son. Four weeks ago Lese invited 
 Motu-Motu to a large feast. A large crowd assembled, and when the 
 time for talk came on Keveri alone was the subject. Many were excited 
 and determined on fighting. When the talk was at its highest a strange 
 native stepped into their midst, and said, " I am a Keverian, I wish you 
 to kill me, or if you save me I shall lead you to Keveri. A dear friend 
 has been killed by a vatavata (spirit), and Keveri will not help me to 
 revenge on the sorcerer. I do not wish for life, but if you spare me I 
 shall be yours." Some said, kill him at once; Semese said, " No," and 
 stepping over to him took his net bag from him, giving him his, ex- 
 chano-ed head dresses and armlets, and then took him by the hand, 
 sayino-, " You are mine, and live." He took him home to Motu-Motu, 
 and the following week landed him on the beach near Keveri, telling 
 him to make known to Keveri his great, wish for peace, and that he and 
 his son would be found in Maiva with the teachers. Soon a messenger 
 came in begging Semese and his son Rahe to go out, which they did, 
 and made friends and peace. 
 
 At sunset Veata returned, looking very serious, and sitting down 
 near to me, he said, " Oh, Tamate, are you sure it will be right for you 
 to look on these things — what if you die? Where shall I go? Every 
 tribe on New Guinea would seek my destruction. " " Nonsense, Veata, I 
 am very anxious to see your kohu, and you will find I live." He left 
 me in great doubt, but I was determined not to be done. I have had a 
 good deal to do with these gentlemen, the most troublesome men on 
 New Guinea, and the same in other lands ; many known as Protestants, 
 and hosts as Romanists. Bigoted priests, Protestants or Romanists, are 
 not near so easily managed as my savage friend and priest Veata, and I 
 thought I would yet see his articles of might, especially the burning 
 jewel of death. 
 
 The sun had long set, and a very dark night had come. I sent for 
 Miria and asked him why Veata did not return. " Oh, Tamate, we are 
 all afraid ; were there only two Tamates, one to die and one to hve, it 
 would be right, but to lose you now and through my friend." " Mirixi,
 
 I'LATE XI.I. 
 
 PLATFORM FOR DEAD BODIES, SOUTH CAPE, 
 NEW GUINEA. 
 
 lieference page 81.
 
 
 <'*" 2:^
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 109 
 
 do not be afraid, die I shall not, but i±' I should there are others to 
 take my place. Come, and we shall go to Veata." Consenting, we 
 started, and walked for nearly a mile, when we came to Veata's village. 
 At this season the Maivans turn night into day, because of the mos- 
 quitoes. They walk and sit about and smoke all night, and sleep during 
 the day. In walking through the village during the day, groups on 
 mats, dead asleep, may be seen everywhere. Except Rakaanya, of the 
 Humphrey group, I know no place to beat Maiva for these annoying 
 creatures. One of my boat's crew said, " Their noise is loud as Rouna 
 (a large waterfall), and their bites T cannot describe." A teacher walk- 
 ing through the village one evening saw a man killing and eating these 
 enemies. " What, are they nice that you eat them? " " No, but they 
 take my blood, and I kill and eat them in revenge." 
 
 Veata, with his wife, was sitting on his platform in the dark, afraid 
 to have a light near that would draw the mosquitos. " Friend, I have 
 come to see your kohu, and especially the burning one." Having 
 strongly impressed on Miria, going along, the necessity of his assisting 
 me, I found now I was about attaining my object. " Tamate, you will 
 see it, they are with my sister ; whilst with me I lost father, mother, 
 brothers, sisters, wife and children; and, being frightened, I gave them 
 to my one sister to keep, and she hides them in the earth." After a 
 chew of betel nut we start for the sister's, where he begs to remain 
 awhile to follow us in a short time. On arrivinsij at the Mission House 
 j\Iiria told the natives about to keep away as Veata was coming with his 
 kohu. The teacher's wife had to leave the house, and I with the teacher 
 long waited. The wife, tiring of the long delay, returned and inlornud 
 us it would be long ere he came, as he was " going through his prayers," 
 and there sure enough he was, on a platform near our house, busily 
 engaged with his bags in front of him. After a long stay ^liria entered 
 and saw the house cleared, then Veata came, put down my curtahi that 
 makes my end of the house private, asked me to take the light inside, 
 showed me where I was to sit and not lean over his things. Agahi he 
 began, " Tamate, I think it is good and no harm will come to }ou ; but 
 do not show them to any Maivan or Motuan."
 
 no PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 " Yes, it is good, and no harm will be mine." Muttering hurriedly to 
 liimsclf, he pulled carefully each fingei', cracking all, till he came to the 
 ninth, no crack, then more earnest muttering, and an appealing look to 
 me, " Tamate is it good?" " Yes, Veata," A long, hard pull, and a 
 crack, and then the tenth — all right. In some places the pulling the 
 fingers signify friendship, and everywhere it is done by friends to any 
 one taken suddenly sick. I remember once at Aroma, a chief not much 
 accustomed to smoking had two or three long whiiFs from a bamboo 
 pipe ; he was sitting close by me and thrust his hands towards me ; not 
 knowing what he wanted, he turned to the other side, and a friend 
 caught his hands and pulled his fingers, not at all happy if one failed to 
 crack. The man, I found, was smoke-sick, and this was the cure. 
 
 I was going to ask Veata what it all meant, but he insisted on my not 
 speaking. The first thing produced was a small net bag containing two 
 large seeds ; on one was a very good, clear, and well shaped crystal, and 
 underneath small shells to represent nose and eyes. That was the male, 
 and the other, unadorned, was the female. They were never spoken to 
 but for death, and were the cause of many deaths. He now asked me 
 if I was afraid ? " Oh, dear no, go on." He next produced a piece of 
 bamboo ten inches long in which there was a black stone, basaltic, and 
 another very small one. The one was father and the other child; these 
 were for seasons, and gave plenty or scarcity. In taking the large stone 
 out it fell, which much disconcerted him, and he had again to go over 
 his prayers. Next came a cone, from the end of the pandanus growth, and 
 made like a scent bottle. He took the lid off, and Avrapped in various 
 kinds of weeds was another stone he handled very carefully, a co- 
 partner with the last, only both together produced sickness and death ; 
 the latter was a female. 
 
 He then laid down a small parcel done up in native cloth very care- 
 fully, and whilst undoing it was very solemn in appearance, and mutter- 
 ing all the time. Another stone was produced wrapped in weeds, with 
 two small stones enclosed in a network of string, and another substance 
 wrapped up in leaves. These were of power to make children, and 
 were appealed to for the barren, only the women must never see them.
 
 Plate XLII. 
 NARIA VILLAGE, SOUTH CAPE, NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Reference page 82.

 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STOFIES. Ill 
 
 He then said that was alL I said, " Xo, Veata, I want to see the bright 
 burning stone; but never mind just now, will you sell these?" " Xo.'' 
 " Then put them up and go and get the other." After a little delibera- 
 tion and a good deal of muttering, he asked what I should give him if 
 he would sell, and on mentioning a tomahawk, native beads, arm-shells 
 and tobacco, he was satisfied, and I packed my curios away, lest repent- 
 ance on his part should deprive me of them. I forgot to say that Miria 
 was first consulted, and he was favourable to the sale. We then went 
 out to Miria, and I told him what I wanted, ^^eata left, and in about 
 an hour returned with a small parcel of crystals. AVe again retired, and 
 the small crystals were produced. I bought them, and then in great 
 secrecy he brought out a large piece of crystal quartz in a small net, 
 and said that was what I had heard about, and no one must look on it 
 but myself. It was the " death stone," and of which all Maiva was 
 afraid. It was now getting into the small hours of morning, and I 
 wished my friend would go, but he lingered long instructing me, and 
 betrg'ins: of me not to exhibit these thino-s to Maiva and Motu. 
 
 The next mornino; there was trouble. It was noised all over ]\[aiva I 
 had got these things. j\Iy inland friends begged of me to have nothing 
 to do with them, our boat would sink or we should all die, or I might 
 live, but Motu would sufi'er. Xo one on board knew where I had thorn 
 until after leaving Yule, when my stroke asked me, and I told him they 
 were in a box under his seat. During the trip back he never once 
 returned to that oar. In crossing Redscar Bay we had dirty weather 
 and a very dark night. It arose from Yeata's stufi" — throw it overboard. 
 Xo, it must not go overboard. I never had a quieter crew, and all 
 were frightened. They begged for a reef to be taken in. I was 
 anxious to get to Redscar Head ])y morning, and would not consent. 
 They asked to throw some of our Ibod overboard, and to that I also 
 objected, as at ]\[aiva and Delena, they persisted in filling the boat 
 too full. I heard them saying amongst themselves, " What folly to 
 keep these things on board ; he is not afraid, I)ut what uf us? " 
 
 R
 
 112 riCTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ir. 
 
 The KoiTAru Tribe and their Witchcraft. 
 
 KoiTAru Trire and Sorcery. 
 
 As a tribe the Motuans have few traditions, and very little mytho- 
 logy, although a very superstitious people. One night, sitting with a 
 number of old men, they told me that with the Koiari and Koitapu 
 tribe they came from two ancestors, named Kaimaikuku and Kirimai- 
 kapa, who came from the earth with one female dog, which they took 
 unto themselves. A son was born, then a daughter, and again a son 
 followed by a daughter. 
 
 The first two grew up and married, and their children numbered 
 fourteen. Two went far back and became the progenitors of the Koiari 
 tribe, two went in from the coast by the banks of the Laroge, and from 
 them descended the Koitapu tribe. The others all went to Eelema, 
 where they increased. Long after a quarrel occurred in Eelema. An 
 elder brother desu'ed his younger one to procure him some sago, but 
 the younger, intent on making a bow, turned a deaf ear to the request. 
 Again and again was the request made, but with the same result. 
 Other members of the family, knowing the eldest brother's request, 
 went and procured sago, but would on no account let the younger 
 brother have any, and threatened any who would give him even 
 only a grain, with death. The difficulty increased, and the younger 
 brother decided with a good following to leave, which accordingly they 
 did, and arrived at Taurama (Pyramid Point), where they long 
 remained, increasing in numbers and strength, and finally came to 
 Hanuabada (Port Moresby), where they now live. They speak of 
 themselves as " sea natives/' and the Koitapuans are " the land 
 natives." 
 
 When leaving Eelema the Spirit said, " Go, but never forget me. In 
 feast and in dance I will be with you, and the sound of your drums will 
 be heard by me when I shall indeed bless you."
 
 Plate XLIII. 
 
 "ON THE BEACH," TESTE ISLAND, KISSACK'S TRADING 
 
 CANOE; BELL ROCK AND CLIFFY ISLAND 
 
 IN THE DISTANCE. 
 
 Reference pnge 84.
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 113 
 
 They found the Koitapu tribe a very powerful one indeed, with 
 chiefs innumerable, who not by fighting merely killed their enemy, but 
 also by "meamea" (prayer). They had not long to wait, until they 
 found to their cost they too were under the spell of the Koitapu tribe. 
 Long droughts, only these sorcerers could stop, and to get them to do 
 so, meant pigs, stone adzes, spears, sago, toeas (armlets), and pear^ 
 shell, and often these were given mth no good results whatever. 
 Something was wrong, and again presents would be gone over. 
 
 These Koitapuans held also the Spirits of life and death, and to keep 
 friends with them was one constant aim with the Motu tribe. These 
 spirits travelled in darkness, and would thrust a sharp-pointed instru- 
 ment between flooring, touch a sleeper, and he or she would surely 
 sicken and die, the latter certainly if the sorcerer was not called in and 
 well paid. Many prefer sleeping in the open and on the ground, so 
 frightened are they of these pests. 
 
 A fortnight ago a Motu youth killed a pig belonging to a Koitapu 
 chief, a fight took place, in which over two hundred people took part, 
 and when several got bad knocks. My friend Mabata, a great chief and 
 sorcerer amongst the Koitapuans, seeing his people were likely to be 
 worsted, ran into his house, and brought out a parcel done with native 
 cloth, and with glaring eyes, distended nostrils, and terribly excited, 
 ran in and out of the crowd, tearing the cloth, and scattering a kind of 
 powder, and calling out " To your houses, it is death ; " and many did 
 go to their houses quicker than they have run for many a day, but the 
 young men cared not, and meant to carry it on, until prevailed on by 
 stronger friends. Mabata is even feared by the mountain tribes. 
 
 The one uncompromising enemy of the Koitapu tribe is Hula of 
 Hood Point. When these natives are down this wav and fishinjr, and 
 when unsuccessful, they at once say " Koitapu at it, let us for them,'' 
 and a few years ago it meant the death of several Koitapuans. 
 
 When new sago canoes come in from the West they collect splinters 
 from each, and the following year, when all are in the Gulf, and the time 
 is ncaringfor the return home, these sorcerers give it out that they must 
 be considered. A morning is set apart, and a lai-ge (piantity of food is
 
 1 1 I, PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 collected, on the top of which may be seen tomahawks, beads, tobacco, 
 toeas (armlets), spears, and pearl shell. The sorcerer holds in his hand a 
 ])iccc of an carthenwai-e pot in which there is a parcel containing the 
 s])lintei's, and over which he is supposed to " Meamea." Lost canoes 
 livv always easily accounted for by these sorcerers. They have often 
 tried to exorcise the white missionaries and teachers, but of no use, and 
 they give up, saying, " God is strong." Many in the Motu tribe have 
 thrown them over of late years, their revenue has been little. Very few 
 of them come to church yet, we are friendly indeed. My real object in 
 writing this chapter is for the following, which haj^pened only a very 
 short time ago, and four miles from here. 
 
 An old widow woman with her two sons, a few years ago, left the 
 village of Kevana — forty miles from here (Port JMoresby) — where a part 
 of the Koitapu tribe live, and went to Padiri to live. She was always 
 looked upon as a great sorceress, and her sons assisted her. 
 
 Unfortunately she boasted constantly of her great power, which was 
 very displeasing to the chief Eheita and others. During the first months 
 of last year we had no rain on the coast, and many of the plantations 
 suffered in consequence. The old lady and her sons did not try to hide 
 their having something to do with the drought, and for a long time were 
 kept in food and other things ; but no rain coming, it was too much for 
 Eheita, and he determined to get rid of so obnoxious a personage and 
 her sons. She was known to have a large bag containing pieces of all 
 kinds of food, which she kept buried near her house. She told them 
 she kept it to prevent rain, and to show them they had no power, that 
 power of that kind rested with her. Eheita must have the bag. One 
 morning very early he came with a pig to her, and begged her to give 
 up the bag and all it contained. After some hesitation one of the sons 
 was sent, and it was brought, Eheita taking it, and scattering the con- 
 tents all round. The pig was killed and divided, the elder son went 
 with his wife to a plantation to get food, the mother was under the house 
 with a number of other women, and the younger son in the house. 
 Eheita with two others followed to the plantation, and when he had 
 done his work he would shout so that those in the villasfe could do
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 115 
 
 theirs. On reaching the plantation he asked the widow's son for a 
 smoke, the man went aside to his bag for tobacco and a leaf, and whilst 
 engaged in jDreparing the pipe, Eheita rose, lifted his spear, and sent it 
 clean through him, the other two doing the same. He then gave the 
 long signal shout, and those in the village began ; the old woman was 
 soon despatched, but the son in the house defended himself for some 
 time, but was overcome, and done with. Friends (?) came and took up 
 the bodies and buried them. An influential man from here, visiting the 
 village the same day, Avas told of the murders by l*]heita himself, who 
 also said to him, " Tell the white friends not to be angry, but I could 
 stand it no longer, and now it is done. I am glad, and so must be every- 
 body else." I send him word that I thought he should be hanged. 
 
 There is a place in the bush near to Port Moresby sacred to the 
 Koitapuans, where no one ever treads ; to do so would be instant death. 
 Such places there were in many of the South Sea Islands. The name of 
 this Koitapu place is Varimana. Long ages ago mighty men went inland 
 to Sogeri, and carried away a very large stone, on the way down many 
 died, and when it arrived near the coast range the tribe, as a whole, 
 begged it should be left at Varimana lest all should be exterminated. 
 
 Long after it was carried in to the Koiari, and they too died in large 
 numbers. Again it was returned, and buried at ^'arimana close by a 
 young tree ; the tree has grown very large, and now the stone is quite 
 covered by it, but no one ever goes near it. The stone before burial 
 was carefully wrapped in native cloth, and bound round with well made 
 twine. 
 
 For many generations, the old people of Rarotonga spoke of a stone, 
 te nooanga a Tari — Tans seat — that was long, long ages before covered 
 over by a large Tamanu tree, close to the ^lission grounds. The grounds 
 were sacred, and none carelessly trod there. To approach was the 
 priest's place, and he only uncovered and crouching, A\'hin a limb of 
 the tree fell, some one of the chief's family should die, and on several 
 occasions such was the case. Li the year lS(i7 \\\v tree itself fell, and 
 soon after the King Daniela died, leaving office to my friend Abela. 
 AVhen it was known the tree was down people from all jiarts came in to
 
 IIG PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 sec for themselves the truth or falsehood of many generations, and there, 
 sure cnougli, was the stone with the short bark scat. Many times I 
 liavc seen it and sat on it. Abela gave me Tuarca (name of large tree) 
 to do with as I liked, only he could not assist in cutting it up. Having 
 at the time inany students, fine young men, anxious for work, they in 
 their odd hours cut it up into logs, and the school children sledged up to 
 Mission ground. Only the root was left, which was afterwards used in 
 burning lime. A few months passed, and I gave orders one morning 
 after classes to roll out the best log, and get it over the sawpit. This 
 was soon done, and I had just returned to the house, when a native 
 came running to me, saying, Makea Abela was dead. The night before 
 I spent an hour Avith him in front of his house, and he was then in ex- 
 cellent health. That same morning I heard of him threatening some of 
 his people. I ran over and found him in the bush quite dead. He died 
 of heart disease. Many natives said it was Tuarea. Ah, well, we shall 
 make his coffin from it. I ordered the morning's log to be rolled back 
 and dug out for a coffin. The stone and tree superstition is very common, 
 in Eastern Polynesia. 
 
 Although the ^lotuans fear the whole Koitapu tribe, there are two 
 men of that tribe living in Redscar Bay they fear more than all the rest. 
 Maba, of Lokurukunu, holds great power over the north-west wind, rain 
 and sun ; and Taru, of the same place, holds the south-east entirely in 
 his power. To these presents were constantly brought. When about 
 to start for the west on a trading voyage Maba was given a large 
 present that he might not send the north-west wind, and Taru as large 
 that he mio:ht continue the south-east. When the returning season 
 comes, end of December or beginning of January, Taru was appealed to 
 to stay the south-east, and Maba to give the north-west. 
 
 When planting yams, the Koitapuans, holding a stone in the left 
 hand over the seed, pour water on the stone with the right, and allow it 
 to fall all over the yams to be planted, repeating very quickly the 
 following : — 
 
 Asindvaridaudau, asindvaridaudau, asindvaridaudau, 
 Ilucvara daudau, huevara daudau, huevara daudau.
 
 Plate XLIV. 
 
 PADDLES, NATIVE ORNAMENTS AND IMPLEMENTS, 
 
 FROM THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF DINNER 
 
 ISLAND AND CHINA STRAIT. 
 
 Reference page 87 .
 
 w
 
 TWO NEW GUINEA STORIES. 117 
 
 Bedovari daiidau, bedovari daudau, bedovari daudaii, 
 Naevari daudau, naevari daudau, naevari daudau, 
 Eogovari daudau, eogovari daudau, eogovari daudau. 
 
 When the yams are just above ground the following is repeated in the 
 plantation : — 
 
 Sinari kenikeni (repeat twice more), 
 Hueri kenikeni (repeat twice more), 
 Ruela kenikeni (repeat twice more), 
 Naera kenikeni (repeat twice more). 
 
 ]\Iabata, the chief of one of the Koitapu division, a great man in the 
 tribe, a kind-hearted fellow though a great sorcerer, has just come in 
 whilst writing this, and he has given me the following prayer used by 
 him when he hears there is going to be fighting. He says when he 
 uses it the fighters' hands hang down with weakness, and their knees 
 tremble. 
 
 Tuanugi i ae mai (three times), 
 Kornanugu i ae mai (three times), 
 Vangu i ae mai (three times), 
 Vanugu i ae mai (three times), 
 Kornbuie (twice), 
 Tuauru i ae a (twice), 
 Eorigori e ae a (twice), 
 Kuru e ae a (twice), 
 Eaubu i ae (twice), 
 Suuri i ae ma (three times), 
 En boriboro (four times), 
 Koieri gamia a (twice), 
 Eairaki beriboro (twice), 
 De umu ba ba (twice). 
 
 It is gone over and over again, truly " vain repetitions."
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF POTTERY TRADE. A PAPUAN 
 ENOCH ARDEN. BY JAMES CHALMERS, F.R.G.S. 
 
 lUST now, as I write, the village of Hanuabada (Port 
 Moresby), is one scene of life — truly animated human 
 nature from the oldest man to the youngest bairn kicking 
 in its net cradle, rocked by an elder brother or sister to 
 still its impetuous nature. Who can sleep amidst the thud, thud, of many 
 native hammers (long sticks) used in ship-building, or the slap, slap, of 
 native trowels used by women in the manufacture of native pottery? 
 Now, what does it mean, whence has it sprung, and what object has it? 
 Categorical, no doubt, but to an old stager easily answered. 
 
 The village within Port Moresby counts about 1,000 inhabitants, 
 700 pure Motuans, and 300 Koitapuans. The former are seamen and 
 travellers who came in past ages from the distant west, and settling first 
 at Taurama, Pyramid Point, notwithstanding all its barrenness, and 
 living principally on fish and kangaroo, not objecting to an occasional 
 dog. The generations rolled on, and the newer ones think a better 
 place can surely be found than that barren, rocky hill, and they 
 emigrate to this commodious harbour, perhaps the most central of all 
 centres in New Guinea. Plantations were made on the hill sides, and in 
 the somewhat more fertile valleys, on land belonging to a once powerful 
 tribe of sorcerers known as the Koitapuan tribe. Now this Koitapu 
 tril)e to tlie present day is of note on this coast. Once they lived well
 
 Plate XLV. 
 VILLAGE AT STADE ISLAND (ENGINEER GROUP). 
 
 EeJ'ereiice page 92.
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF POTTERY TRADE. 119 
 
 back near the Koiari, owning then as now all land back to the Laroki 
 river, the Koiarians claiming all on the other side. They are a people 
 much feared because of their wonderful power over sun, rain, heaven, 
 and earth; north-west and south-east monsoons, these especially are 
 theirs. Only yesterday one old chief, an arrant blackguard from Padiri, 
 marched through Hanuiibada, and some occupant from nearly every 
 house came out to meet him with a present, a stick of tobacco, a toma- 
 hawk, an arm-shell, or some other article of value, so that he might be 
 friendly to the proposed trading expedition. They are no doubt the 
 real owners of the soil, and it may be some day in a Land Court presided 
 over by a British judge, they will have much to say. By no conquest 
 do the Motuans live here, but simply because the Koitapuans allow 
 them, saying, " Yours is the sea, the canoes and the nets, ours the 
 land and the kangaroos; give us fish for our flesh, and pottery for 
 our yams and bananas." AVhat a power these Koitapuans have ! mid- 
 night spirits travel at their will, strong men are laid low by them, 
 canoes on distant travels never return because of them, burning sun, 
 cracked earth, dried up bananas, and harvest-time and famine all belong 
 to them. Who will not try to appease their wrath, to gain their favour? 
 He is dead now, my old friend, Taru, but I remember well how all 
 along this coast he was feared, and how from far and near they came 
 with offerings to him. But worse than anything mentioned is that 
 often they cause murder, or commit it to further their dark designs. 
 To hang a few of them may yet become necessary, although since the 
 missionaries have come here they are not so exorbitant, and the others 
 are not so blind. As readers may know, the Motuans are at Pari, 
 llanuabada, Poribada, Lealea, and Manumanu, in Redscar Bay, a tribe 
 numbering about 2,000 only; their dialect is spoken by about 5,000, 
 and they being the people of commerce (the Britons of New Guinea), 
 through their dialect it is possible to communicate with nearly 20,000 
 people. The Koitapuans are to be found tacked on to the Motu tribes 
 at Pari, llanuabada, Poribada, also Bocra and Lealea on tlie east side 
 of Redscar Bay, and inland at Padiri and Kevana, and numbering about 
 2,000, very much cut up into parties. I have never heard of the two 
 
 s
 
 I'jo rrCTUKESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 tribes figliting, but often the Motu tribe being the stronger has helped the 
 Koitapuan against their enemies, the Hulans, who come from Hood Point. 
 The Motu natives are the traders, theirs is the sea. Now it is 
 interesting to go back to the origin of things. How interesting it 
 would be to know to a certainty all origins. But we do know from out 
 of a very distant past, so distant that all we have comes through cob- 
 webs of many, very many generations, a kind of myth which many 
 present day scholars accept before fact. Well, myth or whatever else, 
 here it is. Away, far away, in those hoary ages, a canoe with several 
 men on board went out fishing. They lowered their net and all dived; 
 one, named Edae, near a large rock, in which there was a cave, and into 
 which he looked, was seized by the spirit of the deep and kept, only his 
 toes being left above water. His companions wondered what had 
 become of him, and on looking around saw his toes, and at once tried 
 to pull him up, but could not succeed. Letting go, he disappeared 
 entirely, and they returned home disconsolate and crying all the way. 
 When the sun was near its dipping hour, and the tide was low, they 
 again returned and found Edae's whole foot above water, and had no 
 difficulty in getting him on board, and laid him in the canoe, crying 
 bitterly over him as dead until near the shore, when he opened his 
 eyes, and told them what he saw, heard, and was told to do. It was a 
 large cave in which a great spirit dwelt who caught him and kept him 
 down, so that when they tried to pull him up by the feet the spirit just 
 pulled him right in and told him not to fear, but to wait patiently and 
 hear how the hungry north-Avest season might be got over — have a 
 season of sacredness, then cut large trees, dig them out, and when 
 finished lash them together, then get masts and sails, and when all is 
 finished take all the pottery the wives and daughters have been making 
 on board, and sail away to Eelema. 
 
 On his arrival at home he told the same tale to his wife, and at once 
 he became sacred. His brother-in-law, Xohokinoboki, a Koitapuan, 
 opposed his going and said, "Why leave? I have plenty of yams, 
 some in the house for the North- West season, and some to plant, but 
 Edae must go and get some sago ? " He told his wife he should be
 
 I'LATE XLVI. 
 
 THE VOYAGE HOMEWARD ON BOARD H.M.S. "DART" 
 
 (ON THE JOB). 
 
 Eeferencr page 93.
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF POTTERY TRADE. 121 
 
 long gone, and on no account to give him up. Montlis passed and he 
 did not come; the men -svho accompanied him left their wives, hoping to 
 be soon back, and because they did not return when expected the Avives 
 got married to others, and began to forget Edae and his party. But 
 his wife never gave him up, and she encouraged her daughter-in-law to 
 hope on. At last she had a dream, and saw Edae, who told her he was 
 leaving Eelema on his return journey. She waited a few days, and then 
 early one morning sent the daughter-in-law up to the highest hill to 
 look away to the westward. On her return she reported something on 
 the horizon beyond Redscar Head, but could not say what it was. 
 Later she returned again, and after sitting awhile felt convinced it was 
 Edae, and the next morning was up early. The daughter-in-law again 
 ascended the mountain, and this time returned with the thrilling news 
 that it was Edae, and the lakatoi was near. Both took sticks and 
 beat on the floor, and shouted for joy. The people came running to 
 know what was the matter, when they were told Edae was coming, 
 was near, and that very day would anchor near his house. During the 
 time Edae was gone his wife never allowed the fire to go out, did not 
 go to other houses, had nothing to say to other people, and never 
 bathed. Now she broomed the house, set things to rights, and had a 
 bath, then she anointed her body and dressed in her best. The lakatoi 
 Avas ncaring, and she gave orders for a canoe to be got ready, and 
 getting into it she was paddled off, and when alongside the lakatoi beat 
 on the bulwarks and shouted, " All your wives are married again, I 
 only with our daughter-in-law waited till now." The men were struck 
 dumb, and felt much pained indeed; Edae Avas full of delight, and on 
 seeing his wife broke forth in song. 
 
 Receiving some sago the Avife returned, and set to cooking for her 
 lord Avhen he should land. Great AA'as her joy on landing, and rehears- 
 ing all she heard and reporting Avhat she saAv. Sago in (piantities far 
 beyond her power to describe, and all the men looking Avell. Soon the 
 lakatoi anchored, and after the visiting Avas got OA'cr, Edae landed 
 amidst the plaudits of tlie assembled villagers, another Columbus 
 returning from an unknown region. The iirst part of the night lie
 
 122 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 spent in rehearsing in a loud voice from his house the incidents of the 
 journey, the people he was amongst, their kindness and anxiety to have 
 him remain. He wound up his discourse by an attack on the faithless 
 wives, who Avere terribly ashamed. 
 
 In the morning his sister-in-law, Xohokinoboki's wife, came to get 
 sago, but he sent her back to live on her yams. Day after day she 
 returned, until at last he relented, and told her to tell her husband, and 
 not to be so bumptious in future. When her husband tasted the cooked 
 sago, he could do nothing but praise Edae and condemn himself. 
 
 This journey to the West for sago has been continued ever since, 
 and at present great are the preparations. Long before daylight may 
 be heard women making their pottery, and a walk through the village 
 is indeed interesting. Some women are just returning from the clay 
 pits with heavy burdens of clay of various kinds, black, red, yelloAv, 
 brown. Some are spreading the clay out to dry, others are pounding 
 with a stone the dry clay, some are damping and kneading it, and 
 mixing it with very fine sand. Salt water alone is used. Others have 
 a lump of clay, and are beginning to make various kinds of pottery. 
 Some have theirs half finished, others quite finished, while others are 
 burning theirs in large fires, and staining them with a dye made from a 
 mangrove bark. Every woman has her private mark, and marks ever}-- 
 thing she makes. Here is a list of their pottery : — 
 
 Hodu = water vessel. Ituru zr small cup. 
 
 Uro z= large cooking vessel. Kebo := basin. 
 
 Nau z= dish for serving. Kibokibo z=: small basin. 
 
 Ohuro z= large cup. Kaeva z=: pot with rim. 
 
 Keikei == small pot. Tohe n: 
 
 The men are busy getting their canoes together, work all day, and at 
 night pooling them well out where the man first proposed the trip, and who 
 is captain, sleeps with a few others. Long ago the captain has been secured. 
 In the morning at sunrise the lakatoi is brought in to have her work 
 carried on. Four large canoes are lashed together, then bulwarks are 
 made of leaves from the stemless palm sewn together, and well fastened
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF POTTERY TRADE. UZ 
 
 with long poles, and caulked with dried banana leaves. A stage is made 
 all round, so that the sailors can work her without getting inside of the 
 l)ul\varks. Masts of mangrove, with the roots at right angles, are stepped 
 on to the centre, and large sails made of mats all sewn together, and 
 shaped like crabs' claws, are fixed for working with ropes made from the 
 bark of the large yellow hybiscus. The anchor is a large stone made 
 fast with long canes, sometimes 100 fathoms in length. Fore and alt 
 are small houses, where the captain, mates, and boatswain sleep or 
 smoke. A day or two before leaving they sail about the harbour with 
 all the young swells, male and female in killing costumes, on board, and 
 then they have a hearty song, with drums beating, and bodies swaying, 
 and the ladies' petticoats flying about. The wind is favourable, the 
 cargo on board, and the pole out a mile or two to the eastward : then set 
 sail and away, whilst friends at home remain to weep. With a fine 
 breeze following fast, the men most worked are the helmsmen, three or 
 four of them with large paddles standing aft whilst the others are drum- 
 beating and singing the following Hues taught Edae b}' the sj)irit : — 
 
 Jjokibada oviria nanania 
 Ario visiu na verianbro 
 Boebada eraroi nanai 
 Trope immanai ale Dauko 
 Eela lao mauaro diaia 
 Pinuopa diaid iauoro nairiuovox 
 Eela lao melarara memem. 
 
 There are many others, but the above is sufHcient. When the port 
 where bound is reached, they are received with great delight, pigs and 
 dogs are killed for the reception feast, after which they distribute their 
 pottery, to be paid for when ready to take their return journey. They 
 sleep on the lakatoi, the shore people cooking them food and taking it to 
 them. They ascend the rivers, cut down large trees, and make canoes 
 of thc;m to take home laden with sago. On the rclui-n journr}- tliry will 
 have as many as fourteen and fifteen canoes for one lakatoi. Now they 
 go wealthier than formei-ly, taking wiih them tomahawks, knives, bead
 
 121. PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 lookiii«^-oiassos, {irul red cloth. They return with many tons of sago, 
 whicli they dispose of to Tupuselei, Kaile, Kapakapa, Hula, and Kere- 
 punu, these natives paying them in arm-shells, and other native articles. 
 They keep very little for themselves. During the time they have it the 
 whole settlement smells of nasty sour sago, as they like it best when it 
 ferments, so keep it damped in large uros. 
 
 A list of the places they visit for sago may not be out of place — 
 Oiapu, Lokea, Lese, Motumotu, Moneave, Karama, Namai, Silo, Pisi, 
 Kerema, Keura, Vaidala, Ileran, Orokolo, Maipua, Ukerava, Kairiu, 
 Keropenairu, Kaiburave. 
 
 The great trade on the coast and inland is pottery, the natives very 
 seldom making a native oven like the Maories of New Zealand and 
 South Pacific. On the east the most of the pottery is made on Teste 
 Island and the islands of the Engineer Group, that is traded as far west 
 as Orangerie Bay. 
 
 Their pottery is much finer than that west, but perhaps not so strong. 
 Travelling west, we find the next pottery makers in Arona chiefly at the 
 large village of Maopa. They supply as far east as Mailuikolu (Toulon 
 Island), and send a little to Kerepunu on the west, but the great supply 
 for Kerepunu and Hood Bay come from the Motu tribe. The Hula 
 natives bring cocoa nuts to Pari, Port Moresby, Porebada, and Boera, 
 and in exchange load up their canoes with earthenware of various 
 kinds. 
 
 Pottery is made at the above-mentioned places, also at Manumanu in 
 Redscar Bay, and Delena in Hall Island. 
 
 An article of very great value to the native is the ornamental toea 
 or arm-shell. A few small ones are made on this part of the coast, 
 but the best come from the east, as far away as the D'Entrecasteaux 
 Group. They trade them for pottery, &c., to the Dauni natives, whilst 
 the Dauni natives sell them again to Mailuikolu for sago, dogs, &c., and 
 these to the Aroma natives for pigs, dogs, and canoes. The Aroma 
 natives trade them to the Hood Bay, Kerepunu, Kalo, Hula, Papaka, 
 and Kamari natives for birds' plumes of various kinds, and these again 
 to the Motu natives for sago, and the Motuan to the Eelemaites for sago
 
 Plate XL\U. 
 
 " THE END." SIR PETER SCRATCHLEY'S CATAFALQUE 
 ON BOARD S.S. "GOVERNOR BLACKALL." 
 
 Reference page 104.
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF POTTERY TRADE. 125 
 
 in bulk, weighing 2 or 3 cwt. From the time of the return of the trading 
 canoes, the Motuans keep collecting things until the next season. The 
 most industrious woman, the one who cultivates best on the plantations 
 and makes the most and best pottery, is sure to have her husband's 
 praise, and she "has of the fruit of her hands, and her own works praise 
 her in the gates." 
 
 It is to be hoped that in the future when a civilized power governs 
 these children of nature, they will not do away with the present occupa- 
 tions and systems of trade, and let us hope the missionaries will re- 
 member that Anglicising is not Christianising, and Christianising should 
 have little to do with Manchester. For myself I think the natives with 
 a little bit of loin cloth better off far than }our whitewashed Euro- 
 [)eanized, shirted and trousered natives. Leave them alone in their 
 trading and their pottery, and leave them alone on their lands. Why 
 deprive them of these ?
 
 CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MOUNT YULE. 
 BY E. G. EDELFELD, M.R.G.S. 
 
 ItEW Guinea has a peculiar fascination for the traveller 
 r/j although it is said to be sickly, and in the uttermost 
 degree detrimental to European constitutions ; in which 
 statements it is to be feared there is a great deal of truth. 
 Yet Xew Guinea possesses such a charm, or magnetic force, that a 
 traveller who has once been there is sure to be drawn back. 
 
 There is a serenity and solemn grandeur in those primitive forests, 
 untrodden by civilized man ; danger and climatic troubles are never 
 thought of by the true traveller, but onward is his sole aim, and the 
 further he plunges into the woods in New Guinea the greater becomes 
 his desire to penetrate into the unknown regions of this beautiful island ; 
 it is the naturalist's paradise, where his labours will be amply rewarded 
 and every anticipation fully gratified. 
 
 At the same time I am sorry to confess my own labours in New 
 Guinea were not crowned with that success as anticipated, but this was 
 owing to various circumstances which other travellers can avoid. 
 
 I shall now proceed to give a short narrative of a trip up the Hilda 
 river. In November, 1 884, I set out from Port Moresby for ]\Iaiva, a 
 coast village about ten miles west of Yule Island, and in 1 40° 40' east 
 and 8° 40' south latitude. 
 
 For the reason that it was rumoured that Mr. Forbes had chosen 
 Mount Owen Stanley as his field of operation, I directed my attention
 
 THE HON. JOHN DOUGLAS, SIR PETER SCRATCHLEY'S 
 
 SUCCESSOR. 
 
 Plate XLVIIL 
 
 CAPTAIN T. A. LAKE, SENIOR CAPTAIN OF THE 
 
 A. S.N. COMPANY'S FLEET, AND COMMANDER 
 
 OF S.S. "GOVERNOR BLACKALL."
 
 TRAVELS IN THE NEIGHBOUEHOOD OF MOUNT YULE. 127 
 
 to Mount Yule, where I expected great results in floral discovenes; and 
 on the suggestion of Mr. Chalmers and Captain Liljeblad, made Maiva 
 my headquarters, as from here it was thought I should have easy access 
 to Mount Yule. After a fortnight's stay at Maiva I had so far gained 
 the confidence of the natives that they undertook to pilot me part of the 
 way towards Mount Yule, and I set out with ten native carriers. 
 Travelling about two miles in an east-south-easterly dii-ection through 
 low country dotted with mangrove swamps, and bearing the appearance 
 of being subjected to heavy floods, as flood-marks appeared on the trees 
 in every direction, I soon arrived at a village called Paihana, about five 
 miles in a direct line north of the coast, nearly opposite Hall Sound. 
 The village contained about thirty houses mostly poorly built and 
 situated in a dense wood, intermixed with cocoa-nut palms, and distant 
 about one mile south of the Hilda river. The natives were friendly and 
 off'ered us cocoa-nuts and betel-nuts, the former welcome to me and the 
 latter to my Maiva friends. Here I observed a custom among the 
 natives not seen by me anywhere else in Xew Guinea, every male 
 native carried a bark blanket on his shoulder, and before seating himself 
 would first spread this blanket on the ground. 
 
 After having a chat, through an interpreter, with the chief, he pro- 
 mised to supply me with carriers the next morning to take me away to 
 the next village, and moreover the old chief, Aruoba, would accompany 
 me himself, and I rejoiced over my success so far; but when evening 
 came, the worthy chief had got lame on one foot in some mysterious 
 way, and of course could not accompany me, nor give me men, he 
 said none would undertake the journey. However, the next morning I 
 mustered a small party and crossed the Hilda River in order to reach 
 a path about a mile up the other side, where we entered, and walked 
 under a complete archway of tall rank grass extending for al)out three- 
 quarters of a mile, when we came to an open forest country admirably 
 suited for stock. Here we met a number of natives, men and women 
 carrying fruit and vegetables in netted bags, to be bartered wiili tlic 
 people on the other side of the river, where tliey had a proper market- 
 place and three or four tribes met on certain days for excliange of 
 
 T
 
 128 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 goods, which arc mostly food and fruit; those who are badly off, barter 
 ornaments or war implements for food. On seeing me the people got 
 greatly excited, as I was the first European they had seen, but they soon 
 became calm, and most of the men conducted us to their village, Nauea, 
 and on entering this village the inhabitants raised their voices to the 
 highest note in astonishment at seeing such a party carrying articles in- 
 comprehensible to them. After a formal introduction to the chief, and 
 my name ascertained — it is always a custom amongst the Papuans to 
 ask a stranger's name, where he comes from, where going to, and his 
 errand amongst them — a house was placed at my disposal, and food was 
 brought for us all. I say the house was placed at my disposal, but I 
 feared every minute the frail structure would give way under its burden, 
 for every available space was occupied by inquisitive natives to see the 
 wonderful Albus man, the first one who had visited them. These people 
 conversed at the very top of their voices ; frequently my own voice was 
 not audible, and to amuse myself while they were talking over all the 
 wonderful things they saw of mine, I commenced to whistle, and before 
 long found myself singing an operatic song, and the natives were as 
 quiet as if a wonderful charm had acted upon them, with their mouths 
 wide open, and staring at me. I had found the secret how to subdue 
 their deafening conversation ; I always applied the same means when I 
 desired quietness, and it never failed to produce effect. 
 
 Every day, during my stay amongst them, I was requested to sit on 
 the verandah of the house I occupied, and exhibit my white skin ; it 
 took place as near as possible between 4 and 5 p.m. ; at this hour the 
 people came in from their plantations or hunting excursions, and they 
 appeared never to get tired of looking at me, and feeling every part 
 of the body, and to all this I had to submit with a gracious smiling 
 face. 
 
 The Xauea village contains about 1,500 inhabitants, with fairly good 
 houses and small enclosures where variegated plants grew. The people 
 are of a small stature, healthy and industrious, clean and orderly, well 
 fed, and mostly of a light colour, even as light as many half castes of a 
 Tahitian origin, with bright intelligent faces. Tattooing was not much
 
 TRAVELS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MOUNT YULE. 129 
 
 practised, and the string used by the natives at Port Moresby and in the 
 Astrolabe ranges is dispensed with here and replaced by a wide filire 
 cloth fastened like a suspender at the back, terminating in a long pen- 
 dant ribbon-like tail. The women wear a short petticoat dyed black, and 
 seldom more than one, but at Port Moresby, Hulu, Kerepunu, and other 
 places the women generally wear two or three ; at every house I saw 
 hammocks made of bark cord, on the same principle as our European 
 hammocks. 
 
 I stayed at Nauea for several days, and explored the locality, and 
 found it most valuable for pastural and agricultural purposes. It will 
 no doubt in time to come play an important part as a European settle- 
 ment, and I have every reason to suppose the climate is salubrious, as 
 all the people here looked exceptionally healthy. 
 
 There is one thing about the Papuan all over New Guinea that I am 
 sorry I cannot record favourably on, that is, their statements and pro- 
 raises cannot be relied upon. When it came to the day of my departure 
 to proceed on my journey towards Mount Yule — from Nauea about two 
 days' march — here also I was refused assistance, on the ground that the 
 Nauea people feared that the mountain people would kill me ; but on 
 investigation I found it was nothing but jealousy of my trade, as tliey 
 did not wish it to pass into the hands of other tribes. Notwithstanding 
 my remonstrances, I could not induce them to take me beyond their 
 own district, and I with sorrow and dismay had to return to the coast, 
 and leave Mount Yule unexplored for the present by me. 
 
 The Nauea natives gave many interesting narratives relating to the 
 people on the other side of Mount Yule, such as the existence of a tribe 
 with long tails. The natives in the Astrolabe ranges have the same 
 story about Mount Owen Stanley ; although I did not attach much im- 
 portance to these wonderful tales, what I saw and heard greatly stinui- 
 lated my desire to visit Mount Yule. 
 
 In reference to the Hilda River, whether it will be of any practical 
 navigable service to future settlers is more than I can say. The natives 
 say the river always contains plenty of water ; at tlie time of my visit 
 the wet season had jdready set in, and the river banks were overflowing,
 
 130 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 with a strong current which prevented my progress ; but as far as I as- 
 cended the stream, it was not less than two chains wide, and in some 
 places much more, and with almost perpendicular banks. The Hilda 
 river flows into the Ethel river near the coast, and empties itself' into the 
 sea. 
 
 I am of opinion that the Hilda derives its source from the interior, 
 immediately at the back of Mount Yule, and as the western side of the 
 mountain terminates very abruptly, and apparently almost forms a per- 
 pendicular wall, I do believe the river has its source under this wall, or 
 within a short distance of it. If this be correct, and the river proves 
 navigable at all seasons of the year, it will be a most important route for 
 future explorers, as this route would bring them into the centre of the 
 south-easterly portion of the island. And as the western side of Mount 
 Owen Stanley range gently slopes into the eastern side of Mount Yule, 
 and forms a saddle between the two mountains, I believe from this 
 centre the Mount Owen Stanley ranges can easily be explored, and 
 probably from this point the summit of the mountain itself can be 
 reached. 
 
 As it appears to me that Mount Yule terminates very abruptly when 
 it meets the Hilda river, I have every reason to think my supposition is 
 correct, and from that point a vast extent of level country extends in a 
 north-westerly course for many miles, and will, beyond doubt, even- 
 tually be one of the localities for European settlements. 
 
 In retracing my steps to the coast, I passed through several villages, 
 and was astonished to find a number of fowls cooped up in true Euro- 
 pean style ; the birds are merely kept for the feathers of the male, which 
 are particularly bright and used for ornaments ; they are similar to the 
 Malay fowls, with the exception of being a shade bigger. 
 
 On my return to Maiva I again stayed there a few days, and made 
 a small collection of botanical specimens. The Maiva district is dry, 
 consisting of a series of hills, up to 600 feet above sea level, with slate 
 and ironstone ; the vegetation is mostly a stunted eucalj-pti growth, and 
 the natives are compelled to have their plantations in the valleys where 
 there is more moisture and shelter for the fruit trees and vegetables. I
 
 TRAVELS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF MOUNT YULE. 131 
 
 found several quartz pebbles of a very good quality, water-worn, which 
 in all probability had been washed down from the hills. The natives 
 used large brilUant crystals as charms when hunting or courting ; these 
 crystals were found in the Maiva district. 
 
 On the hills, a mile from the village, I discovered in calcareous beds 
 a number of marine fossils of a recent formation, I venture to tliink 
 that gold will also be discovered in the Maiva district, but in what quan- 
 tity I do not venture to predict. 
 
 The ]\laiva district has a large population with apparently abundance 
 of food of every description. The people are kind and friendly disposed 
 towards strangers, and intelligent ; the men are full of conceit, and pay 
 great attention to their scanty attire. Many of them ai'e handsome, and 
 have an aristocratic bearing. The women, who have sharp masculine 
 features, and much tatooed, are less pleasing than the men. 
 
 The marriage custom at Maiva, unHke all the places I have seen in 
 New Guinea, where, when a woman is married, she is deprived of all 
 her hair and ornaments, differs in this that she retains them at Maiva, 
 being allowed to keep her pretty hair. As a young girl she is tattooed 
 all over her body, with the exception of her face, which is left to be 
 (lone when she is married, to indicate that the woman has entered into 
 the matrimonial union. At the marriage ceremony the bride and bride- 
 groom are dressed in their best, ornamented with feathers, shells, and 
 bright foliage plants ; friends and relatives are invited, all giving 
 presents, chiefly food. After the feasting is at an end, the marriage 
 ceremony is considered legal, and the young couple are left to struggle 
 lor themselves. Each wife is bought from the parents, or from relatives, 
 should the girl's parents be dead. The payment usually consists of 
 pigs, food, and ornaments, tomahawks, and pearl shells, with calico, 
 beads, &c., if any articles of European manufacture have found their 
 way to the villages ; but the pig is on no account omitted. 
 
 It is of frequent occurrence that the lady leaves her husband three 
 or four times during life, and vice versa^ in each case always taking a 
 fresh partner. At each such mishap cocoa-nut trees and vegetable 
 gardens belonging to the peccant wife or husband, as the case may be.
 
 132 PICTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 or co-respondent, are destroyed by the injured party, a severe fight being 
 usually the result. I saw in Maiva many marks of the infringement of 
 the marriage law, such as half the trunk of a beautiful cocoa-nut palm 
 standing as a monument of the unlawful event. 
 
 The only drawback to Maiva ever becoming a European Settlement 
 is the heavy surf on the coast, which makes it very difficult to effect a 
 landing even with a canoe, but I dare say when Europeans are allowed 
 to settle in New Guinea, and should Maiva ever become a European 
 Settlement, civilization will devise some means of aj^proaching it. 
 
 MOTU-MOTU, AND CuSTOMS OF THE PeOPLE. 
 
 Motu-Motu is situated on the eastern bank at the entrance of Wil- 
 liams River, in longitude 146° 9' east, and latitude 8° 13' south; the 
 district is an immense extent of sago country, very humid, and beyond 
 doubt the fever-bed of New Guinea. 
 
 The population here I should estimate at 1,500; the people are as a 
 rule of tall stature, well built, and in good condition, as here is no lack 
 of food ; considering the humidity of the district they keep in excellent 
 health. Smallpox has at some time or other visited this district, as un- 
 mistakable evidences show on middle-aged men who say they had a 
 great sickness when they were boys, and many people died. 
 
 These people have many interesting customs ; for instance, at a cer- 
 tain time of the year, usually September and October, when vegetables 
 are abundant, youths are sent into the Elamos, or sacred houses, as Mr. 
 Chalmers calls them, but this word is a misnomer, as my readers will see 
 further on. The youths having reached the age of fourteen or fifteen, 
 all the hair is shaved off their heads. On the day of their entering the 
 Elamo all the people feast on pigs, yams, taros, sweet potatoes, sugar- 
 cane, cocoa-nuts, and betel-nuts, &c. All this food is collected and 
 placed in huge heaps outside each Elamo where a boy or several is to be 
 imprisoned, as I call it ; it is distributed amongst the people, then cooked
 
 MOTU-MOTU, AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE. 133 
 
 and consumed ; singing and dancing follow. These boys remain in the 
 Elamo for eight or nine months, or until such time as the hair is com- 
 pletely grown over the head, so that when they marry — which they are 
 at liberty to do when they come out — it can be tied in a mop at the back 
 of the head. All the time they remain in the Elamo they are allowed 
 to communicate with none but men, who bring them food, &c. They 
 take outdoor exercise at night, as they must avoid all contact with 
 women, and not even be seen by old or young, sister or mother. When 
 the hair is grown to the required length they are set free ; they are then 
 considered men, and allowed to take part in matters concerning the 
 tribe. 
 
 The Elamos, it is said, are sacred houses, but I am sorry to say these 
 people have nothing sacred ; all married and single men sleep in these 
 so-called sacred houses ; here they gossip, eat, drink, and create mis- 
 chief of every description. If a sanctuary is used for such debasing 
 work it cannot justly be called a sanctuary. Death sentences have been 
 passed upon many innocent men from these so-called sacred houses. 
 
 I said married men slept in the Elamos ; yes, this is rather a pecuhar 
 custom in the matrimonial union amongst these people ; every night the 
 husband leaves his wife and family and betakes himself to the house of 
 mischief, there to sleep. Not unfrequently when the husband leaves 
 his wife in the evening, some single man will go to the wife, give the 
 name of her husband, and have a little love adventure — the readers will 
 wonder how this can be done, but it is easy enough, as there is no light 
 in the houses; sometimes the woman will find out the mistake and give 
 alarm, and the intruder will find himself in a serious trouble, which 
 frequently is fatal to him. 
 
 The images of birds, fishes, pigs, and men are kept in these houses 
 only as ornaments, as these people acknowledge no deities. 
 
 On the whole these people are very egotistic, and not easy to deal 
 with ; they are by nature rowdy and <|uarrelsome, and were at one time 
 considered the warriors of the coast ; and even at the time when Messrs. 
 Lawes and Clialmers took up their residence at Port Moresby, they 
 threatened to go and fight them. And for my own part I have not met
 
 134 nCTURESQUE NEW GUINEA. 
 
 a more selfish lot of people than the ]\Iotu-]\Iotuans. The Aroma and 
 ]\Iotu-]\[otu people are certainly the most noisy folks I have met in Xew 
 Guinea as yet, and my wife has named them the Irish of New Guinea. 
 They will receive strangers very kindly, but this is policy, as they know 
 strano'ers are generally liberal with their tobacco, &c.; but were the 
 young people taken in hand and taught what is right and wrong — for at 
 present they don't know what is right, except from their own point of 
 xie^v — they could be made a useful people ; they possess intelligence, and 
 are quick of comprehension. They are independent, because nature is 
 kind to them ; they need not worry for to-morrow, and when their larder 
 is exhausted they need only to go into the bush, cut down a sago tree, 
 which will supply a family with food for weeks; cocoa-nuts they also 
 have in abundance, and on the whole the Papuans are the happiest 
 people on earth, the country supplies them with all their wants, without 
 much exertion on their part ; poor mortals in civiHzation have to toil 
 and struggle all their life long, and in most cases only for a miserable 
 existence. The savage is indolent, blood-thirsty, and in every way 
 opposed to the moral laws laid down for the guidance of humanity, yet 
 the Creator provides more readily for the savage in New Guinea than 
 for the civilized man.
 
 APPENDIX I. 
 
 188 6. 
 VICTORIA. 
 
 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 EEPOET ON BEITISH NEW GUINEA, FEOM DATA AND NOTES BY 
 
 THE LATE SIR PETEE SCEATCHLEY, HEE MAJESTY'S 
 
 SPECIAL COMMISSIONEE ; 
 
 BT 
 
 MR. G. SEYMOUR FORT, 
 
 Private Secretary to the late 
 
 SIR PETER SCRATCHLEY, R.E., K.C.M.G. 
 
 PRESENTED TO BOTH HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT BY HIS EXCELLENCY S COMMAND,
 
 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Report by G. Seymour Fort. 
 
 Part I. 
 
 A record of places visited, proceedings taken in connection with the 
 erection of buildings, purchases of land, judicial matters, &c., judicial pro- 
 ceedings, and other administrative matters. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 Statement of the existing state of the country, the character of the natives, 
 their system of land tenure, resources — actual and potential, &c. 
 
 Part III. 
 
 The views of the late Sir Peter Scratchley with regard to the present 
 political position which British New Guinea occupies in the Anglo-Australia 
 System — also his views with regard to its future position and futiu*e 
 administration.
 
 SIR PETER SCRATCULEV, K.C.M.G. 
 
 From a Negative hy Foster and Martin, Melbourne. 
 
 Plate XLIX. 
 
 MR. 0. SEYMOUR FORT, PRIVATE SECRETARY TO 
 Sin PETER SCRATCULEV.
 
 APPENDIX I. 
 
 11 E P R T. 
 
 ^S^m PETER SCRATCHLEY arrived in Molbournc at the end of 
 the year 1884. Before, however, he was able to proceed to New 
 Guinea, two main questions had to bo settled — 
 
 (1) To find a suitable vessel in which to go to, and remain 
 on, the New Guinea coast: 
 (2) To arrange with the various Australasian colonies with regard to tho 
 present and future contributions towards the expenses of adminis- 
 tering the Protected Territory. In order to settle this latter 
 question. Sir Peter Scratchley visited the colonies of Victoria, New 
 South Wales, Queensland, Tasmania, and New Zealand, and per- 
 sonally interviewed their respective Ministers. Ho also met and 
 interviewed the Premier of South Australia. The purport of tho 
 replies from these colonies with regard to this point was to tho 
 effect that they would continue to contribute their respective 
 quotas for periods varying from two to five years, on the condition 
 that a certain share in the expenditure should bo borne by tho 
 Imperial Government. 
 The difficulty and delay in obtaining a suitable vessel for service on tho New 
 Guinea coast was intensified by tho threatened rupture between England and 
 Russia, which was imminent during the months of March and April of that year. 
 Early in January, 1885, Sir I'eter Sc-ratchley had gone to Sydney, and while 
 there the Government had offered to place H.M.C.S. " Wolverene " at his disposal 
 for service on the New Guinea coast for six months. This offer was accepted, 
 and the vessel was placed in charge of Captain Taylor, who was instructed to
 
 138 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 carry out tlio nocossary refittings and repairs. In the meantime, Sir Peter went 
 to Tasmania, and not long after his return to Melbourne from that colony the 
 threatened rupture with Russia appeared so imminent that he felt it his duty to 
 resign the " Wolverene/' and place her again at the disposal of the New South 
 Wales Government. For a considerable period after this his time and attention 
 were devoted to the defences of the various colonies. As soon as the alarm with 
 regard to the danger to be apprehended from Russia had somewhat subsided, he 
 advertised for tenders for the chartering of a steamer for service on the New 
 Guinea coast. Twenty answers were received, but the prices ashed by the 
 majority of the tenderers were so exorbitant as to leave only one or two to 
 choose from. After considerable trouble and dehberation, Sir Peter Scratchley 
 accepted the tender of the Australasian Steam Navigation Company for the 
 s.s. " Governor Blackall," and in July she was laid up in Sydney for the purpose 
 of refitting and preparing for her work on the coast of New Guinea. In the 
 meantime, at the request of the Governments of Queensland and New Zealand, 
 Sir Peter Scratchley visited those colonies for the purpose of conferring with 
 the Ministers on the subject of his mission. 
 
 By the end of July, the " Governor Blackall " was ready, but, owing to his 
 illness. Sir Peter Scratchley was unable to start until the middle of August. 
 On the 13th of that month the " Governor Blackall " left Sydney, and, after 
 calling at Brisbane, Townsville, and Cooktown, arrived at Port Moresby on the 
 22nd August. 
 
 Paet I. — Recced of Proceedings. 
 
 After arrival of Sir Peter Scratchley in New Guinea, his time may be 
 divided into three periods : — 
 
 (i.) From 28th August to 12th October, during which period he was 
 engaged in establishing the seat of Government at Port Moresby, 
 and in inspecting the country from Port Moresby to South Cape 
 and Dinner Island. Redscar Bay was visited, and an expedition 
 made inland, for about twelve miles, to the Kabadi district. The 
 following places along the coast were also visited : — Bootless 
 Inlet, Tupuselei, Kailee, Kapakapa, Hula, Kemp, Walsh River, 
 Kerupunu, Kalo, Aroma, South Cape, Teste Island, and Dinner 
 Island. From each of these places expeditions were made inland, 
 in some cases penetrating to the interior to the distance of 
 fourteen miles. 
 
 (it.) Peri,^! from 12th to 30th October. During this period. Sir Peter
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 139 
 
 Scratchley, in company with H.M.S. '* Diamond " and '^ Raven/' 
 who were awaiting his arrival at Dinner Island, was engaged in 
 investigations concerning the killing of white men, which had 
 occurred among the islands on the South and South-East Coast, in 
 the Louisiade Archipelago, &c. The following cases were investi- 
 gated : — The killing of Captain Miller, at Normanby Island, on the 
 3rd of that month ; the killing of Rcid, at Slade Island, Engineer 
 Group; the killing of Captain Friar, at Moresby Island; the killing 
 of Bob Lumse, at Hayter Island j the killing of Captain Webb, in 
 the previous year, at Milport Bay ; the attack on the schooner 
 " AVild Duck," in Cloudy Bay, in June, 188t. For the purpose 
 of obtaining evidence, the following islands were visited : — Killer- 
 ton Island and the main land in Milne Bay, Dufaure Island, Lydia 
 and Toulon Islands. On the 29th, the vessels returned to Aroma, 
 where the flag was hoisted, in the presence of about 2,000 natives ; 
 and on the 31st they returned to Port Moresby, 
 [in.) From 1st November to 1st December — a period of exploration and 
 discovery. On the 1st November, the " Governor BlackalP' was 
 sent back to Australia, in consequence of the dangerous illness of 
 Mr. Askwith, serving on staft', and Sir Peter Scratchley remained 
 on shore at Port Moresby for twelve days, making an expedition 
 50 miles inland to Mr. Forbes' station, at the base of Mount 
 Owen Stanley. After the return of the " Governor Blackall," he 
 went to Hula, and, on the 15th, held a Court of Inquiry on the 
 conduct of two white men. On the 19th, ho proceeded to Dis- 
 covery Bay, in Milne Bay, exploring on the way a hitherto un- 
 known river on the north-east portion of the bay. On the fol- 
 lowing day, the ''Governor Blackall" was taken into hitherto 
 unsurveyed waters, at the head of the bay, to a place called 
 ^faivara. From here the vessel went to Bentley Bay, the most 
 southerly point on the North-East Coast, calling on her way at 
 Killerton Island, from which place an expedition was made across 
 the hills, extending from Milne Bay to Bentley Bay, througli a 
 country which was reported to be teeming with hostile natives, 
 who were, however, found to bo most friendly. From Bentley 
 Bay the vessel cruised along the North-East Coast to ^litre Rock, 
 which forms the boundary of the English territory on the North- 
 East Coast. I^litro Rock was reached on the 25th November.
 
 140 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 From this point, owing to tlio illness of Sir Peter Scratclalcy, the 
 vessel steamed direct to Australia, callin<^ at Dinner Island and 
 South Cape on the way, arriving at Cooktown on the 1st 
 December. 
 Two important results are to be noted : — 
 
 (1) The practical knowledge gained of the country, the natives, and 
 
 their environment. 
 
 (2) The friendly relations opened up everywhere with the natives. 
 With regard to the first point, at each place visited a record was kept of the 
 
 name of the district and its chief; the approximate number of villages and 
 population ; the native teachers resident ; the character of the natives, climate 
 and nature of the soil ; the natural products and industries, &c. ; and any in- 
 cidents of importance. Each of these points will be dealt with in a subsequent 
 part of the Report. 
 
 With reference to the opening up communication with the natives — at each 
 place, wherever possible, the chiefs were collected, presents made, and the inten- 
 tion of the Government and its wish to protect black and white alike explained. 
 The chiefs were told that all complaints against white men were to be made to 
 H. M. Special Commissioner or his representative, who would constantly patrol 
 the coast ; that no chief was to take the law into his own hands ; that tribal 
 warfare was to be discouraged ; and the absolute authority of one chief to be 
 recognised. The position of the native teacher, as exercising a beneficial 
 influence, was also everywhere recognised. 
 
 On arrival in New Guinea the subjects demanding immediate attention 
 were — (1) The appointment of ofiicers ; (2) The establishment of a seat of 
 Government ; (3) The purchasing of land from the natives ; (4) The erection of 
 a house for the Government Resident. 
 
 Captain Musgrave, Assistant Deputy Commissioner, was placed in charge^ 
 and intrusted with the administration of afiairs for the district, extending from 
 Yule Island to Hood Bay. The Honourable J. Douglas, who was Government 
 Resident at Thursday Island, was also appointed Assistant Deputy Commissioner 
 for the purpose of exercising control over the western portion of the protected 
 territory. Mr. Frank Lawes was appointed Postmaster, Harbour- master, and 
 Clerk to Captain Musgrave. Two brothers, by name Hunter, of considerable 
 practical experience in New Guinea, were also taken into Government employ — 
 the one to act as forester and inspector of the timber trade, the other to inspect 
 the beche-de-mer industry. 
 
 Port Moresby was established as the seat of Government, and the sole port 
 of entry. The reasons for this selection were — (1) because it was the only place
 
 REPOBT BY G. S. FORT. 141 
 
 where any permanent attempt at civilization had been made ; (2) because of its 
 comparative healthiness ; (3) its vicinity and easy access, especially for sailin"- 
 vessels, to Cooktown, and a telegraph station. 
 
 A considerable area of land, comprising the best sites in tlio harbour and 
 nearly the whole of the frontage to the sea, was, with but small difliculty, 
 purchased from the natives. In summoning together the claimants for this 
 land, and in obtaining their assent to parting with their property in perpetuo, 
 and thus securing a sound title for the Government, the assistance rendered by 
 the Mission was invaluable. A portion of this was set aside for Government 
 buildings ; part was reserved as a site for a future township, and a portion was 
 also to be held as a native reserve. 
 
 Previous to the arrival of Sir Peter Scratchlcy at Port Moresby, the only 
 houses were those belonging to the Mission and to a storekeeper of the name of 
 Goldie. Consequently, all Government officials, and to a large extent all 
 visitors also, were dependent upon the hospitality of the Mission for board and 
 lodging. A site was, however, carefully selected by Sir Peter, on which a lar^-e 
 two-roomed house, which had been ordered at Townsville, was erected. This is 
 at present oecupied by Captain Musgrave, and is the only Government residence 
 in the island. By means of pipes laid on from a natural spring, the house as 
 well as the native village below, is amply supplied with water. A prison was 
 also in the course of erection, and Captain Musgrave was instructed to collect 
 materials for the building of a native bungalow. A small printino- office was 
 also established, and Eegulations were printed, copies of which were sent to as 
 many white traders as possible, and to the native teachers in each district. 
 
 Boevagi, the chief of the village, was formally recognised as chief of the 
 district. He was instructed to refer all complaints, whether of a tribal nature or 
 against white men, to the Special Commissioner. Twenty-five of the sub-chiefs 
 of the district were summoned on board the " Governor Blackall," were pre- 
 sented with presents, and were told by Sir Peter Scratchlcy — firstly, that they 
 were to regard the white man as their fricud, whose presence would be to their 
 advantage ; secondly, that they were to regard Boevagi as their chief, to whom 
 they were to refer to in all cases requiring arbitration. 
 
 In addition to tho land at Port Moresby purchased by the Government, a 
 large tract of land, comprising nearly one half of Stacoy Island, was purchased at 
 South Capo. In this case, tho transaction was simplified by the fact that there 
 was only one owner, and that the rest of tho tribe recognised his individual 
 right to dispose of tho land. No title deeds were drawn up, nor did the seller 
 attach his nanic to any document ; a statement was signed by tho Rev. J, 
 Chalmers, tho native interpreter, and others, to tho effect that the native (Pusa)
 
 142 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 liad a solo riglit to tho land, that ho had parted with it voluntarily, and that he 
 and tho tribo were satisfied with tho payment given — about £5 worth of trade. 
 These were the only purchases of land made. 
 
 Owing to the somewhat unstable and unique relationship that the Imperial 
 and Colonial Governments had occupied with regard to New Guinea, several 
 Europeans had gone through the form of purchasing land from the natives. Two 
 classes of claimants to land were dealt with — those who based their claims on 
 purchases made prior to the proclamation of the Protectorate ; those who claimed 
 a prescriptive right to lease lands, on the ground of occupancy or original 
 exploration. 
 
 Of the first class, a claim to about 700 acres of land at Port Moresby in 1878, 
 and a claim to 15,000 acres of land alleged to have been purchased in the Kabadi 
 district in 1880, were the most important. Although, under paragraph No. 6 
 in Commodore Erskine's Proclamation of November, 1884, these claims had no 
 legal basis whatever, yet as there might be special cases, where individuals 
 might in equity appear entitled to consideration, each case was thoroughly 
 investigated by Sir Peter Scratchley. 
 
 In the first case, the original purchase had been made in July, 1878 ; the 
 original purchaser, who had been master of a trading vessel, had died and had 
 assigned his claims to the present claimant, who now claimed about 500 acres of 
 peninsula headland, and two other allotments of about 100 acres each, these 
 two being comprised in the land purchased by the Government as a native 
 reserve. In the purchase of these it was alleged that £600 had been spent. 
 After careful inquiry, it was made clear that certain transactions had taken place, 
 and that certain natives had signed their names to these transactions. It was, 
 however, made equally clear that, putting the trade at its highest figure, not 
 more than £8 was given to the natives for the land. 
 The claim was refused on the following grounds : — 
 
 (a) Under Commodore Erskine's Proclamation it had no legal basis. 
 (6) Neither of the parties to the transaction had any legal or ofiicial 
 
 authority, 
 (c) There was no reason shown why in equity any consideration should 
 be given. 
 As the land in the Kabadi district was stated to be very fertile, the area 
 claimed extensive, and the claim already possessed an official history, a special 
 expedition was made for the purpose of investigation. 
 This claim was refused on the following grounds : — 
 (a) Sir Arthur Palmer's Proclamation.
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 143 
 
 (h) Commodore Erskino^s Proclamation. 
 
 (c) There was no reason shown why in equity the claim should be 
 
 recognized. 
 
 In support of this last cause, Sir Peter Scratchlcy wrote : " I have ascertained, 
 
 by inquiries on the spot, that the purchase of the land was not completed by you 
 
 or your late partner, and that your negotiations for the land have at no time 
 
 been acknowledged by the chief of the district." 
 
 I may state that one of the partners has voluntarily retired from his alleged 
 claim — the other still importunes the Government on the subject. 
 
 The applications for leases were based on the grounds of occupancy or 
 original exploration. They were all temporarily shelved or refused until the 
 places had been visited by Sir Peter Scratchlcy or one of his officers. 
 The following applications for concessions of land were recorded : — 
 
 (1.) From a firm in Australia, on behalf of a Gorman Company, for tho 
 purpose of establishing trading stations. — This application was 
 refercd to the Imperial Government. 
 (2.) From the New Guinea Land and Emigration Company in London, to 
 which the following reply was returned by Sir Peter Scratchlcy : — 
 " Being anxious to assist in every way the enterprise of persons 
 desirous of developing the resources of the British portion of 
 the island, I regret to state that the project, as laid before mo 
 in your prospectus, is altogether unworkable and pi'omature." 
 (3.) From a New Guinea trader, in order to enable him to start a 
 company for the development of native industries. — The corre- 
 spondence in reference to this application was never completed. 
 Permissive occupancy of Government land, for tho purpose of erecting a 
 house and store, was granted to two traders at Port Moresby, and also at Soutli 
 Cape. 
 
 Permission was granted to -Mr. II. O. Forbes, who has a station at Sogere, 
 about 50 miles inland from Port Moresby, to purchase land from tho natives in 
 that district. 
 
 A registration of claiinauts to land or to leaseholds, on tho same plan as that 
 adopted in Fiji, was in tho course of compilation. As soon as this had bi-i'u 
 completed, the claims of those pcr.sons who had expended money in the purchase 
 of land, or who had worked and cultivated land on terras of agreement with tho 
 natives or otherwise, would have received prior consideration as against all sub- 
 sequent retjucsts to lease or purchase. 
 
 In addition to tho claimants already mi'iitioucd, there are others whoso 
 
 X
 
 lit BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 claims date back for some years, who arc only waiting the result of test cases 
 boforo tlioy take any action. 
 
 As it was found that no vessel would undertake the conveyance of a monthly 
 mail to Port Moresby at an economical rate, it was considered necessary to 
 abandon, for the present, the project of a monthly mail service. The Queensland 
 Post Office authorities agreed, however, to regard New Guinea in the same light 
 as an isolated station in Queensland. That is to say, letters posted in New 
 Guinea, and bearing a Queensland stamp, would be charged Queensland rates ; 
 while all letters addressed to New Guinea would bo forwarded to Cooktown^ 
 and would there await the departure of any vessel that might be returning to 
 New Guinea, no extra charge being made for their transference from Cooktown 
 to their destination. The Queensland Government were also good enough to 
 allow the Auditor-General to make a half-yearly audit of the accounts. Official 
 notices with regard to New Guinea were also, by the courtesy of His Excellency 
 the Governor and the Premier, allowed to be inserted in the Queensland 
 " Government Gazette." 
 
 As, in Sir Peter Scratchley^s opinion, the indiscriminate influx of adventurers 
 and speculators would be to the disadvantage of the country, no person was 
 allowed to go to New Guinea without a permit. Several permits to trade were 
 granted to private companies and individuals ; but it is a significant fact that, 
 although the requests for these permits were very urgent, yet in the majority of 
 cases the applicants did not avail themselves of them when granted. Each 
 permit was granted subject to the observance of conditions. The customs 
 officer, both at Townsville and Cooktown, was authorized by the Queensland 
 Government to prevent any vessel without a permit from clearing from either 
 of the above-named ports. 
 
 It was a prominent item in Sir Peter Scratchley's policy to encourage as much 
 as possible explorations, conducted upon a proper footing and under recognised 
 leaders. Many persons applied for permits to explore who were totally unfit to 
 do so, and whose attempt, had permits been granted them, would have been ruin 
 to themselves, and would have made a breach in the relations with the natives 
 which it might have taken years to heal. The following remarks on this question 
 appear in his note book : — " All explorations must be methodical and systematic. 
 No time must be fixed for the return of the exploring party, which should be 
 composed of as few members as possible. No exploring party should act 
 independently of the Government.''' 
 
 The two most important explorations undertaken during Sir Peter Scratchley's 
 administration were —
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 145 
 
 (1.) The expedition of the Australasian Geographical Society, under 
 Captain Everill. The whole history of this expedition is so well 
 known that remark is unnecessary. 
 (2.) Mr. H. 0. Forbes, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, arrived 
 in Australia in August, and accompanied Sir Peter Scratchley in 
 the s.s. '^ Governor Blackall '' to New Guinea. His object is to 
 explore the Owen Stanley Range. For this purpose he has esta- 
 blished himself, with 25 Malays, at a station at the base of the 
 mountain, and has opened up friendly relations not only with the 
 natives immediately around him, but also far back into the 
 interior. Early in the dry season he will attempt the ascent of 
 the mountain. In the meantime, he is engaged in making obser- 
 vations and collecting Botanical and Natural History specimens. 
 He will eventually furnish the Government with a Geological 
 Report upon the country through which he passes. In order to 
 assist him in his operations. Sir Peter Scratchley has authorized 
 him to purchase land from the natives, for the purpose of intro- 
 ducing the cultivation of rice and maize, and a considerable 
 amount of the former, for seed purposes, was ordered from Batavia . 
 Sir Peter also furnished him with a large number of seeds for the 
 purpose of forming a Government garden. It had also been the 
 intention of Sir Peter Scratchley to have granted him from the 
 Government funds a considerable sum of money to enable him 
 to continue his operations after his ascent of the mountain. His 
 long experience in dealing with natives, the accurate records kept 
 by him of the natural features and natural products of the country, 
 render his work as an explorer of exceptional value in adding to 
 the knowledge of the country. 
 (3.) An application was made from the Mayor of Townsvillo for a 
 permit to be granted to a gold prospecting expedition to visit the 
 country. This was granted, and Sir Peter Scratchley promised 
 to instruct his oflicers to assist the expedition in every way possible. 
 It was, however, pointed out that it would not be advisable for 
 the expedition to start until the end of the raiuy reason. 
 During his cruise along the coast, many instances of strained relationships 
 
 existing between the trading whites and the natives were brought under Sir 
 
 Peter Scratchloy's notice. 
 
 Tho most important complaint made by natives again.st white mou was a
 
 ItC BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 cliargo hronglit by Rcnalci, chief of Ilula, against two white men, by name 
 CJuiso and Currio. These two men had been resident in that district for some 
 time, and the chief had made a complaint to Mr. Romilly about them in December, 
 1884. He complained that, although they were resident in the district, they 
 followed no trade ; that they were in tho habit of systematically violating the 
 young women of the tribe ; and, what appeared to bo the chief cause of his 
 complaint, of violating the married women also. He further informed Mr. 
 Romilly that they had spoken disrespectfully of the Commodore. Acting upon 
 this complaint, Mr. Romilly requested the captain of H.M.S. 'SSwinger" to 
 deport tho men from Hula. This was done, and they were taken in that vessel 
 to Australia. They, however, again returned in a vessel which had no permit, 
 and took up their residence at Hula. On Sir Peter Scratchley's first visit to 
 Hula, in September, the chief Renaki made a formal complaint against these two 
 men, and asked Sir Peter Scratchley if he was strong enough to remove them. 
 At that time Sir Peter Scratchley was unable to remain at the village, but he 
 promised that he would return and investigate the matter. Accordingly, when 
 he visited Hula in November, a Court was held on board the s.s. ^'Governor 
 Blackall," and the two men. Guise and Currie, were summoned by warrant to 
 appear. The native evidence taken before the Court was not strong enough to 
 justify their deportation under clause 26 of the Western Pacific Orders in 
 Council, but they were proceeded against under clause 27 of those Orders, which 
 prohibits residents in the Island from remaining there if their presence shall be 
 considered by the Commissioner detrimental to the peace and good order of the 
 Pacific Islands. 
 
 A few minor complaints, made against some of the traders on the coast, with 
 reference to the prices paid for heche-de-mer, &c., were also adjudicated upon. 
 
 The principal complaint of whites against natives was a charge of robbery 
 with assault, committed by some of the natives at Aroma, upon a trader called 
 Dan Rowan. This case was carefully investigated on the spot by Sir Peter 
 Scratchley, and the native evidence taken in the matter, the result being that the 
 chief was ordered to restore the stolen property, which was done. 
 
 Six cases of white men who had been killed during the past two years on the 
 New Guinea Coast were investigated. The results of these investigations went 
 to show — 
 
 (1.) That the white men killed fell into two classes: — (a) Those who 
 were killed for their individual crimes against native laws, either 
 immorality, as in the case of Reid, or of unfair and unjust dealing^ 
 as in the case of Bob Lurase, or, as in the case of Webb, for reck-
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 147 
 
 lessly ignoring of triLal feuds and warfare, (l) Those who fell as 
 victims to native superstitious ideas, and the demand for vengeance 
 which the evils of the labour traffic had aroused, vide Frier and 
 Miller's case. 
 (2.) That in every case, therefore, there was either direct or indirect 
 aggressive provocation on the part of the whites against the 
 blacks. 
 (3.) That, in the majority of cases, there was reckless disregard on the 
 part of the murdered of warnings given. Frier refused to believe 
 the native boy who told him the natives had determined to kill 
 him. Miller had been warned by Captain Bridge of H.M.S. 
 " Espiegle," and by Mr. Chalmers, not to go to Normanby Island. 
 So many and so various are the difficulties connected with the question of 
 punishment, that to administer justice according to European notions for these 
 outrages is impossible. A murder is committed, and a man-of-war proceeds to 
 the spot. She finds that every person in the village has left, taking everything 
 with them; by waiting a day or so, some of the men will return. They will not, 
 however, fight — at the first sign of hostility they flee into the jungle, where to 
 pursue them would be fatal, as for every native caught, ten white men might 
 be speared. Should, however, the natives remain and consent to give evidence, 
 such evidence is wholly unreliable, partly from the difficulty of interpretation and 
 explanation, and partly also from the readiness with which, when they do under- 
 stand, they will endeavour to adapt their statements to the leading idea or 
 apparent wish of the questioner. Then, again, the native custom with regard 
 to payment for murder, and their low estimate of human life, forms another 
 difficulty. In the case of Miller, one of the murderers came off to the ship 
 voluntarily, bringing liis payment or wergild for the nmrder he had committed. 
 He was detained on board, but to have punished him with death, in the face of 
 liis having voluntarily paid what, according to his standard of justice, was a 
 full penalty for his deed, would have been revenge and not justice. 
 
 As a result of the experience gained by Sir Peter Scratchlcy during these 
 investigations, the following conclusions wore arrived at: — 
 
 (1.) That the Government cannot be responsible for the protection of 
 irresponsible traders, who cruise from place to place in vessels in- 
 sufficiently manned, whose defenceless position, and the possession 
 of trade which they injudiciously expose, are almost invariably a 
 source of incitement to the natives to attack them. 
 (2.) That mou-of-war vessels are not suited for tho purpose of administer-
 
 148 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ing justice and punishing outrages on the New Guinea coast ; that 
 under the peculiar conditions for which they are required, they 
 comLino the least amount of efficiency with the greatest display of 
 force. 
 (3) . That the most effective police would be a selected crew of Samoans 
 or Fijians, under the charge of an English officer, who would be 
 constantly patrolling the coast. This force could also be utilized 
 for the prevention of tribal warfare. It would of course be 
 necessary that the officer in charge should send in a writteji 
 report of his proceedings. 
 
 Part II. — The Existing State op the Country. 
 
 The above-mentioned administrative proceedings were more or less of a 
 provisional nature, and were incidental to what appeared to Sir Peter Scratchley 
 to be the main object of his cruise, namely, to gain a practical insight into the 
 actual condition of the country, in order to be able to lay before the Imperial 
 and Colonial Governments some scheme for its administration. As it is evident, 
 on account of the climate, that as the natural resources of New Guinea can only 
 be developed by means of coloured labour, the distribution of the natives, both 
 as to population and disposition, is perhaps of paramount importance. With the 
 exception of some portions of the North-East Coast, almost the entire littoral of 
 the Protected Territory is inhabited. In the AYest and North- West, from the 
 Fly River to Hall Sound, the natives are very numerous, the tribes are large, 
 and a higher stage of tribal development is reached than elsewhere. The soil is 
 in some places extremely fertile, and the sago produced in this portion of the 
 coast supplies the districts on the South- West Coast as far as Kaile. 
 
 The natives inhabiting not only the coast, but also the high lands and 
 valleys from Port Moresby to Kerupunu, are numerous, peaceable, and show 
 themselves willing to adopt European ideas with regard to labour, &c. This is 
 especially the case among the fertile lands behind Kapakapa, Hula, and Keru- 
 punu. At Aroma, Cloudy Bay, Milport Bay, and Toulon Island, the character 
 of the natives changes ; they are very numerous, their tribal organization is 
 more complete, and their individual physique finer, but they are not to be 
 trusted — their latent capacity for bloodshed is strong, and with difficulty 
 restrained. 
 
 The population from South Cape to Bentley Bay and East Cape is more
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 149 
 
 scattered, the villages are small and numerous, tlie people small in stature, and of 
 peaceable disposition. 
 
 But little is known of the natives on the north-east coast ; the few that were 
 visited were visited during the cruise of the " Governor Blackall." Several 
 places were visited where no white man had ever been before ; although shy, the 
 natives appeared to be friendly ; in some places the villages were very large. 
 
 Most of the islands in the Louisiade Archipelago and D'Entrecasteaux 
 Group are thickly populated ; the natives are, however, treacherous, and less to 
 be trusted than those on the mainland ; in most of the islands also, as well as on 
 the mainland from South Cape to Bentley Bay, the natives have been and are 
 cannibals. 
 
 From what is known of the interior, the villages appear to be numerous, and 
 the people friendly. At Mr. Forbes^ station, the furthest settlement inward 
 hitherto attempted, the natives are not only friendly, but have caused tribes 
 living far away in the interior to become friendly also. 
 
 During his tours of inspection. Sir Peter Scratchlcy personally visited no 
 fewer than 18 districts, 27 islands, Si inland villages, and nearly GO coast 
 villages. Except on rare occasions, no arms were carried ; and on no single 
 occasion was the slightest hostility shown, or was there a single disturbance 
 with the natives. 
 
 The social and political organization of the New Guinea natives is quite 
 rudimentary. Even the tribes in the West, who are less barbarous than elsewhere, 
 have no fully developed tribal system, such as existed iu Fiji, Java, or New 
 Zealand. On the other hand, however, nowhere arc they nomadic or so low in 
 the scale as the Australian black. 
 
 The infinite variety of dialects to bo found throughout the Protected Territory 
 is a prominent element of difficulty in dealing with the natives, whether for 
 trading or investigation purposes. Not only each district, but each village, has 
 very frequently a dilFerent dialect. The Motu dialect prevails over the largest 
 area, namely, from Port Moresby to Kapa Kapa. 
 
 Owing not improbably to the influence of the ISIalay element they have 
 everywhere shown themselves ready to trade with Europeans, and eagerly 
 exchange, not only natural products, pigs, Sec, but even personal ornaments, 
 relics, house utensils, Sec, for tobacco, axes, cloth, Sec. They have also a good 
 deal of inland trading among themselves, the inland supplying the coast tribes 
 with food products in exchange for fisb, salt, &c. In the Port Moresby district 
 largo expeditions are annually made to the Gulf of Papua for the purpose of 
 exchanging the j)ottery (burnt clay pots) made at l^ort Moresby for the sago
 
 ir,0 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 grown in the West. These expeditions arc undertaken in large crafts (Lakatois) 
 made by lasliing several canoes together. In those they frequently go out of 
 sight of land, and steer hy the stars. It was estimated that in one of these 
 expeditions, which started from Port Moresby shortly after the arrival of the 
 " Governor Blackall,^^ 20,000 pots were taken, for which they would bring back 
 in exchange about 150 tons of sago. 
 
 As tho natives exist almost entirely upon vegetable diet — yams, bananas, 
 &c. — they are obliged to undergo a certain amount of labour in tilling the 
 ground. This, however, is done mainly by the women, who are not unfrequently 
 skilful agriculturalists. The men, however, as a rule, are not industrious, and 
 seem incapable of any systematic permanent labour. The principal food sources 
 are bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, tare, cacoa-nuts, sugar-cane, bread-fruit, and 
 other native fruits, fish, &c. 
 
 In order to render the natives more capable of self-government among them- 
 selves and useful instruments in developing the resources of the country, it will 
 bo necessary that native customs and institutions should be reformed by Govern- 
 ment in two directions. 
 
 (1.) It will be necessary to create in each district a tribal chief, who 
 
 will also be a British official. This chief will be trustee for the 
 
 lands, and responsible for the conduct of the inhabitants in its 
 
 district. 
 At present, not only in each district but in each village, there appears to be 
 a chaos of authorities. Under the present circumstances, each man, beyond con- 
 forming to certain established customs, is a law to himself. In a single village 
 there is not unfrequently to be found three rival chiefs, each basing his claim to 
 chieftainship upon a different basis; there is the patriarchal chief, who is, more 
 or less, connected by kin with all in the village ; there is the man who is chief 
 by virtue of his individual prowess in war ; and there is also, perhaps, a sorcerer 
 chief. It occasionally happened that all three attributes, or perhaps two, were 
 centred in one chief — as, for instance, Koapena, chief of Aroma — but this is the 
 exception, and not the rule. The remedy suggested by Sir Peter Scratchley 
 was to introduce a modified form of the Java system, crushing out the minor 
 chiefs, and making the Government-elected chief the recipient of a certain annual 
 payment. He would then be held responsible for the safety of all foreigners, and 
 for the maintenance of law and order within his district. 
 
 (2.) It will be necessary to raise the standard of native comfort, by 
 
 introducing the cultivation of rice and maize. 
 This could be done by means of the official chief and native teachers. Its
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 151 
 
 effect would be to increase the number of requirements among the natives — to 
 give them an inducement to steady labour and systematic cultivation. Hitherto 
 tobacco has been current coin among the natives, and only so long as they were 
 in want of this would they work, consequently their labour could never be 
 depended upon. At Port ]\Ioresby, however, and elsewhere, the introduction of 
 a meal of rice, as payment for a day^s work, was appreciated, and proved a far 
 greater incentive to steady and reliable labour than tobacco. 
 
 The system of land tenure in New Guinea is generally admitted to be a com- 
 plicated one. Those who have hitherto written and reported concerning it have 
 almost without exception regarded it as an organized system of tribal ownership ; 
 but although the natural boundaries of the tribal district are always known to 
 each member of the community, yet it seems probable that there is no idea of 
 tribal ownership as it is generally understood. 
 
 The actual ownership of the land appears to be based upon the basis of kin- 
 ship. The land is divided into divisions and subdivisions, owned by groups of 
 individuals, who are all more or less connected by kin. The number of indivi- 
 duals in these groups is variable. The group may have dwindled down to one 
 representative, or it may have indefinitely increased. Each member of this 
 family group regards himself as having a distinct interest in the land appro- 
 priated to his kinsmen ; not only, however, can no one member alienate the land 
 without the consent of the family group, but each member yr\\\ claim to receive a 
 share of the profits of the sale of such land. The sense of individual proprietor- 
 ship is very strong, and extends to particular trees, and even to the fruit upon 
 these trees, &c. 
 
 The position and action of the chiefs will vary in proportion to their indi- 
 vidual influence and power. If the land to be disposed of belong to the family 
 group, of which the district chief is also the patriarchal head, he would bo the 
 most prominent figure in any transactions with the land; but if the land in ques- 
 tion belong to a different family group from that to which he himself belongs, 
 and he has no voice by virtue of kinship with them, then his authority and power 
 as district chief will, with reference to this land, be almost nothing. It is excep- 
 tional to find a chief strong enough to negotiate iudepcdcndeutly for the disposal 
 of the land belonging oven to his own group. It is, therefore, still less common 
 to find him negotiating with regard to land in which, from want of relationship 
 to tho owners, he has not himself any share. However vague these distinctions 
 with regard to the interests of chiefs and of members of family groups in land 
 may appear to Europeans, they nevertheless seem to bo pretty well defined and 
 understood by the natives themselves. As a pi-actical illustration of the strange 
 
 Y
 
 ir.2 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 do'TOca in which various members and chiefs of tribes are interested in the tribal 
 lauds, I may give the following : — 
 
 There was a small piece of land at Port Moresby for which thirty or forty 
 members of a tribe alone claimed payment. These, however, were not the whole 
 of the tribe but only a part, and their apparent right to receive the money was 
 acquiesced in by the rest of the tribe. At South Cape, however, the independent 
 right of one individual, and he was not a chief, to dispose of a large area 
 of land was recognized by the whole tribe — no one, not even the chief of that 
 tribe, putting forward any claim for payment ; while again, for the land adjoining, 
 there were many owners out of the tribe, each of whom, including the chief, 
 would have had to receive payment in settlement for any land sold. At Kabadi, 
 a piece of land belonged to a family group, of which the district chief was not the 
 patriarchal head, and he was consequently, on the sale of the land, only able to 
 veto the transaction, but could not stop the transactions in connection with the 
 sale of the land. 
 
 Although it is probable that the confidence of the natives would best be 
 gained by avoiding for the present any attempt to purchase land, yet this course 
 is now hardly practicable. It is, however, evident that with all these different 
 and conflicting interests in any one piece of land, it is absolutely necessary that 
 there should be one recognized source and channel from which a good title could 
 be drawn, otherwise it might be that two or three members of one of the groups 
 might pretend to have authority to sell land to any purchaser, but in reality they 
 would have only a small interest in the purchase-money, each of the other 
 members of the group having an equal right to their share in it. The conditions 
 for bringing about a war in connection with land, similar to that which occurred 
 in New Zealand, are abundantly present in New Guinea, and unless the land 
 transactions are controlled by Government, complications with the natives must 
 arise. It is not easy, however, to define in what most practical and economical 
 manner this control could be exercised. One means towards this end would be 
 the creation of an oflScial tribal chief, through whom theoretically the title would 
 issue. No title would be valid without his assent, but this assent must be 
 certified to by the Sub- Commissioner in charge of the district, and, if necessary, 
 receive the approval of the Special Commissioner. Transactions for land, how- 
 ever, under a certain defined area, might, under special conditions, be made 
 directly with the natives. Other means might also be devised on the spot for 
 ensuring a good title to lands. 
 
 The London Mission Society commenced to work in New Guinea in 1871. 
 In its constitution and principles it is unsectarian, but for many years it has
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 153 
 
 been mainly supported by the Congregational Churches of the British Isles and 
 Australian Colonies. The Mission districts are as follows: — {n) The Western 
 begins at the Baxter River, embraces the Fly and the Katan Rivers, and ends at 
 the Aird River. This is under the care of the Rev. S. McFarland and the 
 Rev. — Scott. The head-quarters of this district are not situated on the main 
 land but at Murray Island, where natives are instructed and sent to the coast to 
 open Mission stations. In the institution many industrial arts are taught, and 
 a schooner for Mission purposes has been recently launched which was built by 
 the students under the direction of an English boat-builder. {J)) The Central 
 District begins at the Aird River and ends at Orangery Bay, having Port 
 Moresby for its head-quarters, and the Rev. W. G. Lawes, F.R.G.S., and tho 
 Rev. J. Chalmers are at tho head of this district. (c) The remaining district 
 extends from Orangery Bay eastward, and is under the care of the Revds. — 
 Savage and W. Sharpo.^ At Port Moresby is a college and school, whereat 
 native teachers are trained for the purpose of carrying out Mission work. 
 
 There are thirty South Sea Island and ten New Guinea teachers, located at 
 aa many stations. These stations form a chain from East Cape to Maclatchio 
 Point, and then again on the FJy River, and to the west of it. Although the 
 whole of that coast line is not actually occupied, the gaps are being rapidly filled 
 up. Between the two places mentioned above, there is only one gap, namely, 
 Cloudy Bay, where the natives are not on friendly terms with tho teachers. At 
 each station the Mission teacher has a large house and a garden, also a whale 
 boat ; at tho majority of stations there is also a church built. It would be 
 impossible to define the area over which the influence both of Mr. Chalmers and 
 Mr. Lawes as well as of the native teachers extends. One positive result of the 
 labours of tho Mission is that they have succeeded, not merely in opening up 
 communication -svith the natives along nearly tho entire littoral of the Protected 
 Territory, and far into the interior as well, but, what is more important, they have 
 inspired those natives with confidence. Had the result been reversed, and tho 
 natives rendered aggressively hostile or suspicious, none but armed bodies of 
 men could have ventured into tlio interior, nor could single individuals have 
 cruised from point to point along the coast in fair security. Under tho present 
 conditions, a single white man, unarmed, can go fifty miles into the interior from 
 any point between Port Moresby and Hula in perfect safety. 
 
 Tho successful results attained by the Mission in this respect are due, partly, 
 to tho special (jualifications for tho work jiossessed by tho Revs. W. G. Lawea 
 
 ' Since wii(ii);_' tliis tlio IJov. W. Sliaipo lias diiil rrmii liver in Xiw (luim-a.
 
 ir,l. BIUTISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ;iii(l J, Cli.'ilinor.s. TJio former has acquired a scholarly mastery of tho native 
 langua<ji;o, has compiled a grammar and dictionary from an unknown language, 
 and has organized a body of interpreters. To hia efforts are due the possibility 
 of being able to carry out investigations and enter into explanations with the 
 natives. Tho latter, by his energy and enthusiasm — by his courage and tact — 
 has not only overcome native shyness and distrust, but wherever ho has gone 
 ho has upheld the moral superiority of the white man, and inspired even the 
 wildest barbarians with trust and confidence. 
 
 Success is also partly due to the native teachers, who frequently, with their 
 lives in their hands, have been pioneers to break down native superstition and 
 distrust. They are the channels of communication between European ideas and 
 native superstitions, and their usefulness from a political point of view is very 
 considerable. To their devotedness and zeal is due the fact that Europeans are 
 able to go with tolerable security into places which otherwise must have remained 
 sealed to any but armed forces. By their means, moreover, the natives might 
 be induced to undertake the cultivation of rice, maize, &c. They are excellent 
 gardeners themselves, and have cultivated limes, Papua apples, pine-apples, 
 oranges, tea, potatoes, &c. 
 
 Experience shows, that the presence among primitive barbarians of Mis- 
 sionaries of difterent sects is not infrequently the cause of political disturbances, 
 or even civil war. This was especially the case in some of the islands in the 
 Western Pacific, Rotumah, &c. The eff'orts of the Roman Catholic Mission to 
 establish themselves in places which the London Mission Society had occupied 
 for years, were, in Sir Peter Scratchley's opinion, upon political grounds, to be 
 discouraged. He considered that the London Mission had, in equity, a pre- 
 scriptive right within certain districts, and that the intrusion within these 
 districts of a rival denominational sect was likely to produce trouble among the 
 natives. Hearing, therefore, that certain Roman Catholic priests had established 
 themselves at Yule Island, which had been previously occupied by the London 
 Mission, he wrote to tho head of the Roman Catholic Mission at Thursday Island, 
 and pointed out the settlement on Yule Island of these priests was undesirable, 
 and that other areas were available for their efi'orts. He further ofiered to take 
 the priests in the s.s. " Governor Blackall '' to the Louisiade group, or any other 
 island they might desire. 
 
 There are, in all, about twenty white men now resident in New Guinea. The 
 majority of these are traders, who are backed in a small way by merchants and 
 firms in Australia. There are three stores at Port Moresby, and one settler has 
 erected a sawmill. The traders, as a rule, live in their boats, but a few native
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 155 
 
 houses at Hula and Killerton Island have been erected by Europeans. In con- 
 sequence of the recent murders that have been committed in the islands, and the 
 disturbed state of the natives generally on the South-East Coast, warnings were 
 sent round to as many traders as possible. 
 
 The climate of New Guinea must doubtless be considered as one of its 
 greatest drawbacks. In the first place, it is enervating, and Europeans are 
 incapable during the summer of performing much continuous labour; and, 
 secondly, the fever, which is everywhere prevalent, is of a severe character. 
 Although all early attempts at permanent settlement, especially on the coast, 
 must be attended with a high rate of mortality, yet it seems not improbable that 
 there the New Guinea climate will resemble that of the north of Queensland, and 
 that in proportion as settlement advances and the soil is worked, so the pesti- 
 lential character of the climate will become modified. In breaking up land for 
 sugar plantations in the north of Queensland, every one, Kanakas as well as 
 Europeans, were attacked, some fatally, with fever. On the same stations fever 
 is now almost unknown. With regard, however, to the present state of the 
 climate in New Guinea, all that can be done is to point out some of the least 
 unhealthy spots on the coast, such as Cornwallis Island, Port Moresby, Dinner 
 Island, Killerton Island, Teste Island, and several places on the North-East 
 Coast. In the interior, although fever prevails, it is not of so severe a character 
 as that on the coast, while the atmosphere, especially on the highlands, is more 
 bracing and invigorating. 
 
 The commencement of the seasons in New Guinea are : — Spring, September 
 2ord ; Summer, December 21st; Autumn, !March 20th; Winter, June 21st. 
 'I'lio rainy season commences in December, and lasts with more or less fall of 
 weather until April. The rough statistics collected with regard to the rainfall 
 shows as follows : — 
 
 On the North-Wcst Coast, as far as to Redscar Bay, rainfall moderate 
 tliroughout the year; excessive during rainy season. ^lost healthy portion of 
 the year from June to October. On the South-East Coast, from Port Moresby 
 to Kerupunu, rainfall almost nil for sometimes six months in the year; during 
 this season this district, csjiecially Port Moresby, is, comparatively speaking, 
 healthy. From Aroma to East Cape the rainfall in the summer is considerable. 
 At South Cape the least unhealthy season is during the north-cast monsoon or 
 rainy season. On the southern portion of the North- I'^ast Coast the rainfall is 
 ajijiarontly small. Among the islands the rainfall throughout the year is con- 
 siderable, and the most unhealthy portion of the year throughout the Protected 
 Territory is in April and May, as the IJnods are subsiding afti'r the rainy season.
 
 15G BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Tlio wliolo of tbo Papuan Culf may bo regarded as unsafe for vessels to visit. 
 The water is always muddy, and reefs cannot be seen. Moreover, there is little 
 depth of water for miles from the shore, very often not more than two fathoms, 
 and heavy rollers are constantly coming in. From Redscar Head eastwards the 
 South Coast is skirted almost continuously by a reef, an outlier of the great 
 Australian Barrier Reef. This reef extends from the shore, at a distance of some 
 five to six miles, and the numerous indentations afford excellent harbours and 
 anchorage. Along the whole of the North-East Coast, from East Cape to Mitre 
 Rock, are numerous large harbours. The most important harbours, however, 
 which would afford anchorage to any considerable number of vessels of a large 
 size are Port Moresby, Orangerie Bay, Milport Bay, and South Cape. At some 
 of these, however, landing for small boats is difficult, on account of the fringe of 
 reef. The navigation along the whole coast is difficult, and no vessel can travel 
 at night. 
 
 There are a large number of rivers in the Protected Territory, and the whole 
 of it, with the exception of the district around Port Moresby, appears to be well 
 watered. The largest rivers are those which drain the basin of the vast level 
 region which begins on the west side of the Gulf of Papua. The largest of these 
 rivers is the Fly River, which rises some hundreds of miles in the interior. It 
 is supposed that many of the smaller rivers are mere branches leading into the 
 Fly. Owing to the action of the south-west monsoon, which blows during the 
 healthy season, the mouths of these rivers are silted up with sand and mud, and 
 are unnavigable. This is especially the case in the Aird River, which it is 
 only possible to enter during the north-east monsoon, or unhealthy season. On 
 the South-East Coast the rivers are numerous, and the soils on the banks fertile. 
 As, however, the elevated land is near the coast, they are small in comparison 
 with those in the west. The North-East Coast appeared to be well watered, and 
 several rivers of considerable size were seen. In Dyke Acland Bay, where there 
 is a vast tract of level country, densely wooded, intervening between the coast 
 and the highlands, which are very distant, the mouth of a very large river was 
 discerned. This river was not marked on any map. 
 
 In Milne Bay, two rivers, not mentioned in any map and apparently un- 
 known, were discovered and explored. The first river (native name Davadava) 
 was discovered in the north-east of the Bay, and was explored for a distance of 
 about six miles. The banks were steep and precipitous; vegetation rank; 
 timber ; depth from eight to twelve feet ; small bar at its mouth, navigable for 
 a small steamer. It is comparatively a small river, rising in the mountains near 
 the coast. The other river (native name Hadara) was a very large one, and
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 157 
 
 apparently led into the heart of the country. There were several deltas at the 
 mouth. The land on either side was flat and the soil very rich ; vegetation very 
 tropical and in abundance ; depth of river from twelve to sixteen feet. Largo 
 numbers of natives were seen; they were, however^ very friendly. 
 
 AVithin a radius of 100 miles from Port Moresby, the wallaby is to be 
 found in large numbers. The undulating plains which extend at the back of 
 Port Moresby are great hunting grounds for wallaby and pigs. Outside this 
 radius the wallaby is not found. "Wild pigs are found everywhere in the Pro- 
 tected Territory. The cuscus, an animal resembling the Australian native bear, 
 and a species of tree kangaroo are to be found in the southern portion of the 
 Peninsula. These animals, together with the wallaby, are marsupials. It is 
 supposed that monkeys exist in the interior in the west. Birds of all sorts — 
 pigeons, duck, cassowary, birds of paradise, &c., — are very numerous. 
 
 The mineral resources of the Protected Territory, both as to kind and 
 quantity, are still a matter of conjecture. With regard to gold, two specimens 
 of sand, one from the Larogi and the other from Milne Bay, have been assayed. 
 The assay of the specimen from the Larogi River yield gold, but not in payable 
 quantities ; the results of the assay of that taken from Milne are not yet known. 
 It is the opinion of Mr. H. 0. Forbes, based upon his geological observations, 
 that gold will not be found to tho westward, but might lie among the high 
 country in the Milne Bay district, and on the North-East Coast. Plumbago 
 has been seen at various places along the South- West Coast. Pebbles and 
 small fragments brought down from the interior, consisting of mica slate, 
 quartz, sandstones, greenstone, and jasperiod rocks, show tho formations there 
 to be undistinguishable from tho Silurian and Devonian series of tho gold- 
 fields of New South Wales. Rocks of similar ago, with granite and gneiss, were 
 also found. 
 
 Tho following industries are at tho present time in operation in the country, 
 from which a revenue could be immediately obtained : — Timber, hcche'ih-mer, 
 copra-making, pearl fishing, &c. 
 
 The glowing accounts which have appeared in tho newspapers of the prospects 
 of the timber trade in New Guinea have raised cxpectjitions of a very sanguine 
 nature. It is true that there are large quantities of cedar and malava (species 
 of cedar) on the banks of the rivers in tho west, in the Manu-manu district, and 
 on the Kemp, Walsh, Edith, and other rivers ; but it is not generally known 
 that a very large proportion of this timber is so small as not to bo of marketiiblo 
 value. As large quantities of cedar had been felled before the proclamation of 
 the Pi'otectoratc by firms in Australia, permits were granted to remove this
 
 ir,8 TiRTTTSn NEW GUINEA. 
 
 timber, but tho foiling of frosli timber was proliibited until the spot had been 
 visited by Sir Peter Scratchley or one of his officers. Tho wisdom of this step 
 was sliown by the fact that large numbers of young cedar trees, too small for 
 use, had been cut down in sheer wanton waste. To prevent this for tho future, 
 a Forester was appointed, whose duty it was to prohibit tho felling of timber 
 below a certain girth. It was stated, verbally, by an agent for an Australian 
 company who had for some years past been engaged in felling timber in New 
 Guinea, that out of 10,000,000 superficial feet of cedar and malava fallen, only 
 about 500,000 superficial feet were of marketable value. He further went on to 
 state that he did not think the future prospects of the cedar trade were hopeful, 
 and that he himself would hardly be able to recover the money he had already 
 spent in felling and removing timber. Besides the cedar and malava, there are, 
 however, large quantities of indiarubber trees, massoi, sandalwood, ebony, 
 hardwood, tamonu, &c., — especially in the district around South Cape, ebony 
 grows in considerable quantities. Two or three large firms have invested capital 
 in this trade in New Guinea. By one firm a number of Kanakas were em- 
 ployed, but hitherto no complications have arisen with the natives with regard 
 to this industry. 
 
 Beche-de-mer, or the sea-slug, which is an article de luxe among the Chinese, is 
 to be found all along the coast from Port Moresby to Aroma, including Constance 
 Island, Milport Bay, Milne Bay, Slade Island, Bentley Bay, and, it is believed, in 
 some bays on the north-east coast. The number to be obtained, however, 
 especially on the south-west coast, has materially decreased during the last few 
 years. The profits are small and precarious, and a considerable amount of 
 hardship has to be undergone in prosecuting the trade. There is also a further 
 difficulty in some districts where the natives, through superstition, dislike 
 handling the heche-de-oner. It was estimated that the actual annual export in 
 this industry amounted to about £8,000 ; and it was suggested that the revenue 
 raised by a tax on this trade might eventually be considerable. The expense, 
 however, of collecting this tax would absorb a large portion of the amount 
 raised. It was the intention of Sir Peter Scratchley to establish a depot for this 
 industry at Teste Island. An inspector was appointed, whose duty it was to 
 report the number of vessels engaged, and the number of tons of fish exported. 
 According to his estimate, there are now ten schooners occupied with this work, 
 and the estimated amount of fish exported is about 500 tons. The persons 
 engaged in this pursuit are, generally speaking, small irresponsible traders, 
 who are constantly coming into collision Avith the natives -uath regard to 
 payments, &c.
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 159 
 
 Copra is made by splitting open cocoa-nuts and drying them either artificially 
 or in the sun. It is used in large quantities in Europe as an element in oil cake 
 and other cattle foods. The localities at present suited for the manufacture of 
 copra are on the south-west coast from Hula to Roma, all along the shores of 
 Milne Bay, at Bentley Bay, and along the north-east coast as far as Dumpier 
 Straits, and many of the Islands of the D'Entrecasteaux and Louisiade Group. 
 At each of these places cocoa-nuts grow in abundance, and could be purchased 
 from the natives at a low price. It would, moreover, be very easy to induce 
 them to plant more cocoa-nut trees, which, if planted in a certain manner, would 
 bear fruit in three years. Thus, this industry is likely to yield a considerable 
 profit to the individuals engaged in it. In order, however, to facilitate its 
 development, it would be necessary to have a chain of stations at various points, 
 whereby a constant supply of nuts could be obtained. The natives show them- 
 selves Avilling to work in procuring the nuts, and are often found trustworthy 
 agents, and capable of rendering a correct account of any trade left in their 
 hands for the purpose of purchase. In consequence of the moisture of the climate 
 at Milne Bay and surrounding islands, there would be considerable difficulty in 
 drying the nuts in the sun. As sun-dried copra is superior to the smoke-dried 
 copra, it has been suggested that it would be more profitable to bring the nuts 
 to Port Moresby, to be dried there by the sun, rather than treat them by artificial 
 means. 
 
 The seat of the pearl fishing industry has hitherto been on the western 
 extremity of the Territory, and occasionally large amounts of pearl have been 
 collected. Quite recently, however, a large find of pearl was made in the 
 Louisiade Group, and it is not improbable that this industry may assume much 
 larger proportions, especially among the islands on the East Coast. 
 
 On the well-watered valleys of the Astrolabe ranges, and on the fertile areas 
 distributed all over the Protected Territory, the following articles, for wliich a 
 market could be found in the Australian colonies, could bo produced without 
 competing with colonial industries: — Cinchona, coffee, rice, on the hills, as in 
 Java and Timor-Laut ; and on the swamps, on the north-east coast, sugar, arrow- 
 root, cotton (which grow wild), vanilla, tobacco, &c. In course of time, the 
 natives themselves might bo taught to cultivate these, and would return tlu' 
 produce to the Government, a certain portion being reserved as their contri- 
 bution towards the expenses of Government, and the surplus being made over to 
 them as wages. 
 
 The following are some of the natural articles of commerce already growing 
 in the country, and cajiablo of forming sources of revinue in addition to the 
 
 Z
 
 ICO TiUITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 indiistrios mcntionocl abovo : — Nutmegs, ginger, pepper, indiaruLber trees 
 (those grow to a large size in tho Tabouri district), spices of all kinds, sago, 
 hemp, tnassoi bark (largely used for medicinal purposes), cocoa-nut fibre, sandal- 
 wood, saffron canes, rattan. 
 
 In some portions of tho interior it would bo possible to graze sheep and cattle 
 — these might supply a local market — but the obstacles in the way of developing 
 purely agricultural interests in tho country, on account of the difficulties of 
 communication, would be very great. 
 
 A central range of mountains running north and south forms the backbone of 
 the Protected Territory. The highest point in this range is supposed to be 
 Mount Owen Stanley, 13,200 feet. Leading to the base of this central range on 
 either side, east and west, are a series of high ranges or spurs, whose sides are 
 covered with dense tropical forest of a virgin growth. Interspersed among these 
 ranges are open valleys, full of rich deep soil, table lands, patches of open country 
 covered with coarse grass, and craters evidently formed by recent volcanic 
 action. Many of the hillsides and valleys had been cleared, fenced, and culti- 
 vated by the natives. In some cases the ranges come almost sheer to the coast ; 
 in others, as at Kabadi, &c., the intervening land between the ranges and the 
 coast is perfectly flat and open ; while, again, at other places such as Kapakapa, 
 Hula, &c., miles of gently undulating country, well watered, with patches of 
 forest intervening, stretch far back into the interior from the coast. The 
 character of the vegetation, especially on the coast, and in many cases of the soil 
 also, is entirely Australian; towards the interior, however, it becomes more 
 tropical, both as regards its character and density. 
 
 Part III. — Future Administration, Expenditure, etc. 
 
 Before any definite programme of administration for tho Protected Territory 
 can be laid down, two questions of considerable political importance must first be 
 settled. In the first place, the status and authority of the Special Commissioner 
 wathin the Protected Territory requires to be more clearly and definitely defined, 
 and secondly, the present political relationship of the Imperial Officer adminis- 
 tering the country with I'espect to the Imperial and Colonial Governments is a 
 wholly anomalous one, and one which apparently will not prove workable. Under 
 the present arrangement. New Guinea forms no integral part in the Anglo- 
 Australian System. 
 
 With reference to the firyt point, namely, the authority and status of the
 
 REPORT BY G. 8. FORT. 161 
 
 Special Commissioner, tho following is the conclusion of a legal opinion oLtaiuctl 
 from tho Hon. Mr. Griffith, Q.C., Queensland, given as Q.C. and not as 
 Premier : — 
 
 " I am therefore of opinion that General Scratchlcy has at present no 
 
 legal jurisdiction and authority of any kind, except such as he can 
 
 exercise as a Deputy Commissioner for tho Western Pacific ; and 
 
 in particular that he has no power to make any regulations having 
 
 the force of law, or to impose or collect any taxes or license fees 
 
 upon exports or imports, or other^nso to exercise any legislative or 
 
 judicial functions in tho Protectorate.^' 
 
 With reference to the second point, and especially the relation of tho Imperial 
 
 Officer and the Australasian Governments, tho following is the written opinion of 
 
 Sir Peter Scratchley : — 
 
 '' A Crown Colony, with the simplest machinery for its government, will 
 probably bo the best. The judicial powers of tlie Governor should 
 be such as to enable him to deal summarily with minor offences, 
 and to remit, say to the Queensland Courts, offences of a more 
 serious nature. Everything will, at first, bo necessarily of a ten- 
 tative character, 
 " What proportion of tho expense of tho cost of government ^^'ill 1)0 
 borno by tho Imperial Government ? This is of paramount im- 
 portance. If tho whole of the expense is to bo borne by the 
 Colonies, the Imperial Government will practically have no con- 
 trol, and I foresee that a deadlock must eventually arise between 
 the Imperial officer and the Australasian Governments. 
 " Tlic exercise of tact, patience, and diplomacy will keep matters going 
 for the first two or three years; but the deadlock will ultimatoly 
 occur, as he will be dealing with half-a-dozen Goverununts, all 
 holding more or less divergent views." 
 With regard also to tho method of coutributiug, Sir Peter Scratclilcy writes 
 as follows : — 
 
 "Tho ignorance of tho intentions of tho Colonial Ofiice as to tho futiin; 
 creates difficulties in the colonial Governments coming to an 
 agreement with tho Imperial Government on the subject of the 
 cost of governing British Now (Juinoa. 
 " Until full information is given on all pninls, tlu'ro is little prospect of a 
 permanent settlement of tho question, and (he policy of the Aus- 
 tralian colonies will continue to bo of a hand-to-mouth cliaraitcr.
 
 \r,2 BRITISH NEW GUINEA, 
 
 "Tho object should be to get the several Governments to propose acts of 
 Special Appropriation to their local Parliaments, in order to 
 permanently secure the contributions to be granted yearly to Her 
 Majesty. 
 " An Act has been passed in Queensland, and, although that Govern- 
 ment declines to increase its contribution, there is little fear of the 
 Act being repealed. 
 " It is doubtful whether the other Governments will do more than vote 
 the contribution yearly. If so, every year there will be discus- 
 sions, more or less unpleasant, in the local Parliaments ; and it 
 will be difficult for the Imperial officer in charge to look ahead 
 and establish an economical administration.'^ 
 It has also been suggested that — 
 
 (1.) That the payments should be made half-yearly. 
 
 (2.) The financial year should commence on 1st January instead of 1st 
 June. 
 Pending the settlement of these important political questions. Sir Peter 
 Scratchley had intended to restrain, as far as possible for the present, the indis- 
 criminate influx of white traders until the necessary machinery for control over 
 whites and natives had been established. In order to obtain this, he had proposed 
 establishing a chain of Government officials at various points along the coast. 
 
 Each Sub-Commissioner would have to be provided with a house, a schooner 
 or whaleboat, one trusty and reliable European, and a crew of Solomon Islanders 
 or Fijians, who should all be married. The duties of the Sub-Commissioner 
 would be — to act as port officer, health officer, &c. ; to superintend all commercial 
 transactions between natives and whites ; to adjudicate on all cases arising be- 
 tween them and white men ; to initiate the cultivation of grain for the natives ; 
 to encourage exports of natural products ; to superintend and report upon all 
 local industries ; to control and advise all exploring expeditions in his district. 
 The salary of the Sub-Commissioner should be at £400 a year. The establish- 
 ment of these officers would be preparatory to, and a means of, systematically 
 opening up the country, so that, when an influx took place, not only would it be 
 possible to exercise control, but the lands best adapted for various industries 
 could be at once pointed out. 
 
 After carefully considering all hydrographical, sanitary, and tribal conditions, 
 it will perhaps be found that the best sites for these ports, which would be ports 
 of entry, would be as follows: — Cornwallis Island, which would command the 
 entrance to the various rivers on the Western Coast. The situation is healthy.
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 163 
 
 and it is within easy communication of Thursday Island and Port Moresby. The 
 central scat of Government would be at Port Moresby, for reason.^ mentioned 
 above ; and the Government Resident would have charge of that district from 
 Hall Sound to Hula. Aroma would be another centre, extending over the Hood 
 Bay district, and along the coast to South Capo. Dinner Island could be made 
 another centre, to control Milne Bay, the Louisiade Archipelago, and tho 
 D'Entrecasteaux Group; while it might be found necessary to have an officer 
 stationed at Rawdcn Bay, for the purpose of controlling the North-East Coast 
 from Bentley Bay to Mitre Rock. 
 
 "With regard to the natives, it had been Sir Peter Scratchley's intention to 
 have formed depots at these ports of entry, and elsewhere, to wliich tho natives 
 might bo induced to bring trade. Regulations would be in force at these depots 
 controlling the prices to be paid to the natives, the method of conducting 
 trading operations, &c. 
 
 As the area of square miles in the Protected Territory is estimated at 80,382 
 sq. miles, some portion of this might bo handed over to a company for adminis- 
 trative and commercial purposes. It had been the intention of Sir Peter Scratch- 
 ley to have encouraged in Australia the formation of a trading company on a 
 basis somewhat similar to the British North Borneo Company. With regard, 
 however, to the tenure of land by this proposed company, Sir Peter Scratchley 
 consulted tho experience of Sir F. A\'hittaker, whose opinion it will be pertinent 
 to quote : — "I may say that, if tho Australian Company is to be empowered to 
 acquire and cultivate land, this would, I think, bo very objectionable ; in fact, 
 would at once introduce into New Guinea all tiio objectionable features that have 
 l)oen incident to the colonization of New Zealand and I'iji, in an exaggerated 
 form. If, on the other hand, the Australian Now Guinea Company intends only 
 to establish trading stations on sites to be held under license from the Cmwn, 
 then I think it would be of great use in promoting tho interests and civilization 
 of tho inhabitants, and therefore should receive encouragement and assistance." 
 
 Referring to tho statement made by tbo Auditor-General of Queensland, Ist 
 I'ebruary, it will be seen that tho amount received for the year 1881 5 was 
 Ll."),17I, tho actual amount expended from 1st January, 1885, to 30th January, 
 1886, being £15,0t8. Adding £500 to this for out-standing accounts, tho total 
 expenditure would amount to il5,51-8. It \v\\\ be remembered that the amount 
 115,171 was the amount duo from tho Colonial (Jovernmeuts from 1st June, 1881, 
 to 1st Juno, 1885. As the contributions for the year 1st June, 1885, to 1st 
 June, 188G, have not yet been paid in, there is consequently a very considcrabio 
 balance to the New Guinea account, and not a deficit as publicly stated.
 
 ICA BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Moroovor, by referring to Sir Peter Scratchley's memorandum of 1st April, 
 1885, forwarded to the Governments of the Australasian colonies, it will be seen 
 that ho divided expenditure into three heads — (a) Capital, or first cost, to bo 
 raised as a loan ; (h) Estimated expenditure for the first year ; (c) Annual ex- 
 penditure for years subsequent. Had he lived to have carried out this classifi- 
 cation, which was approved of by the Colonial Governments, many of the items 
 — such as building of house, &c., — which, under the Auditor-General's Report, 
 appear as annual expenditure, would have been charged to a loan or first cost 
 account. In no way can the expenditure of the year from January, 1885, to 
 January, 188G, be taken as the basis for future expenditure. The work done by 
 Sir Peter Scratchley was preparatory and tentative. He states — *' I consider 
 that my duty is to examine and report upon the country for the information of 
 the Imperial Government." 
 
 If any systematic administration of the country be attempted, the machinery 
 of government will have to be increased, thereby involving increased expenditure 
 both in — (a) Capital, or first cost ; (i) In salaries of Government officers. The 
 principal items under («), or first cost, will be the building of the houses for the 
 Sub-Commissioners along the coast, providing accommodation for native police, 
 providing whale-boats, &c. The increased expenditure under Schedule B will be 
 the salaries of the Sub-Commissioners and native police, the establishment of a 
 regular mail service, &c. It can, however, be reasonably anticipated that the 
 increased expenditure for administration will index a proportionate increased 
 development of natural sources of revenue. 
 
 It has been confidently anticipated by those who have seen the fertility of 
 the Protected Territory, and its capacity for producing articles of tropical growth, 
 that it will ere long become self-supporting. Although in its present condition 
 this, perhaps, would hardly be possible, yet the following methods of raising a 
 revenue to defray local expenditure might be found practical and economical : — 
 (1.) License fees on all heche-de-mer and pearl fishing boats. These 
 would be registered, and have to report themselves at Port Moresby 
 at least once a year. 
 (2 ) License fees for the erection of smoke huts and copra stations. 
 (3.) Export duties on cedar and malava, at a fixed rate for so many 100 
 superficial feet of timber ; ad valorem duties on sandal woods and 
 black woods. With reference to this last duty, I may mention 
 that one timber trader alone, if he had paid on his privileges ac- 
 cording to Queensland timber dues, would owe the Government 
 about £2,000. The Customs officers at Cooktown and Townsville
 
 REPORT BY G. S. FORT. 165 
 
 might, with the consent of the Queensland Government, be em- 
 powered to act for the New Guinea Protectorate. 
 (4.) Funds arising from trading licences, judicial fees, harbour dues, 
 
 and leases of certain unoccupied lands. 
 (5.) Import duties. 
 
 (G.) Native contributions to the expenses of government. These would 
 have to be paid in kind, and could hardly be calculated as a source 
 of revenue for some years to come. 
 The question with regard to New Guinea which at present is most prominent 
 is whether it can be made a successful outlet for capital, or, in other words, a 
 commercial success. Before, however, considering this point, it will be necessary 
 to recall the fact that New Guinea was primarily annexed for a strategical pur- 
 pose. Its value to Australia in this respect has not been diminished by the fact 
 that portion of the country has been ceded to Germany. Not only is the British 
 territory nearest the Australian shores ; but it contains the best climate, the finest 
 harbours and ports, the most fertile lands, the largest rivers. The object, there- 
 fore, for which the country was primarily annexed has been obtained, and its 
 strategical and negative value in this respect is not unfrequently lost sight of hy 
 those who only look for positive financial results. 
 
 The next point which demands attention is the responsibility which rests with 
 the annexing powers with regard to the protection of the natives. Probably, in 
 no country, and at no period of history, was there a more favourable opportunity 
 for successfully adjusting the mutual interests of European and blacks than in 
 British New Guinea. On both moral as well as politic grounds, it is essential 
 that the natives should be protected, not only negatively from aggressive violence 
 and usurpation on the part of the whites, but positively also from moral contami- 
 nation and corruption. Regulations with regard to the introduction of spirituous 
 liquors must not exist merely on paper — they must be strictly and rigidly on- 
 forced ; and, as far as is practicable, the system of appointing teachers to official 
 positions must bo avoided. The following statement with reference to this 
 question appears among Sir Peter Scratchley's notes : — " The only hope of 
 making Now Guinea ])ay is the employment of the natives, who can, by patience 
 and care, be tniiued. Iftlicy disappear, other natives will have to be imported. 
 Putting, therefore, the protection of the natives on the lowest ground, it will bo 
 seen that it will bo cheaper to preserve and educate them. New Guinea must 
 be governed for the natives and by the natives." 
 
 The future of the country di peuds largily upon the attitude of the natives. 
 If they are rendered either hostile or corrupt, tluui it will continue to \)C the
 
 ion BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 liunting ground of nocdy adventurers or desperate speculators; if, on the other 
 hand, tlioy learn confidenco in their rulers^ then settlement in many parts is 
 possible, and the country may become the regular source of supply of tropical 
 products to the Australian markets. On this point, therefore, the duty of the 
 Government and the interest of the speculator coincide, and if, in the scheme for 
 the administration of the country, the positive protection of the natives be com- 
 prehended, the introduction of European capital will materially benefit them, will 
 create in them a useful and willing instrument, and thus be the first means to- 
 wards rendering financial success ultimately possible. 
 Briefly to summarize the foregoing points — 
 
 (1.) Now Guinea was primarily annexed for a strategical purpose — that 
 
 purpose has been obtained. 
 (2.) Having been annexed, it is the duty of the annexing power to pro- 
 tect the natives. 
 (3.) It is doubtful whether the country can ever be self-supporting, partly 
 on account of the climate, and partly owing to the attitude and 
 condition of the natives. 
 (4.) Nothing can be done towards systematically administering the 
 country and developing its resources until it is made an integral 
 part of the Anglo-Australian political system, and the position of 
 the officer administering its Government, both with regard to the 
 country itself, and also to the authorities to whom he is responsible, 
 shall have have been more definitely determined. 
 
 G. SEYMOUR FORT. 
 
 Melbourne, 
 Marcli 30tli, 1886.
 
 APPENDIX J I. 
 
 OFFICIAL II E P U T 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPT. II C. EVERILL, 
 
 Leader of the New Guinea Exploring Expedition. 
 
 ■^^' i^^ 
 
 A A
 
 ^f
 
 Plate L. 
 FLY RIVER EXPLORERS. 
 
 CAPTAIN II. C. EVERILL {L.ft). 
 STGNOR LUIGI MARIA D'ALBERTIS {nUjht). 
 
 Reference page 173.
 
 
 L.&^M::-^:!^:3^;d^4^J 
 
 ^<^ 
 
 APPENDIX II. 
 
 Meeting of the Geographical Society of Australasia to receivk 
 THE Official Rei'Ort of Captain 11. C. Kvekill, Leader of 
 the Society's New Guinea Exploring Expedition. 
 
 PUBLIC meeting in connectiou with the New South Wales 
 
 Branch of the Geographical Society of Australasia was held in the 
 
 Royal Society's room, Elizabeth Street, yesterday afternoon. His 
 
 ^^ Excellency the Governor presided, and in addition to a largo 
 
 \ . '{ .. \ yK^ audience of ladies and gentlemen, there were upon the platform 
 
 Messrs. E. Do Faur, Thompson, M.A. (Secretary to tho Queensland Branch of 
 tho Society), Gerard (Hon Treasurer), Myring (Hon. Secretary), Sir Edward 
 Strickland, K.C.B. (President), and other gentlemen. The principal business of 
 tiie meeting was the hearing of an oflicial summary of tho results of tho recent 
 expedition to New Guinea, under the leadership of Captain Everill. A largo 
 sketch map of that island liad been prepared, from tho j)lottings of tho explorers, 
 by Mr. ^I. Gautschy, C.E., its measurement being IG feet by 15, and tho scale 
 4 miles to the inch, and tho tracks of recent exploration parties were shown. 
 
 Lord Cakrington excused himself from offering any lengthened remarks, on 
 account of the long programme which was before him, and ho called upon tho 
 Honorary Secretary, Mr. T. H. Myring, to read a papir which ho had prepared, 
 on "The aiuis of tho Geographical Society." 
 
 !Mr. Myring having read his paper, His Excellency then said he would call 
 upon Captain Everill to read his oflicial report of the recent expedition, which 
 was the principal business of the Jiiecting.
 
 1 70 
 
 JUUTISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 I'XPLOIIATION OF NEW GUINEA— CAPTAIN EVEJULL'S 
 
 REPORT. 
 
 N Wednesday, Juno lOth, s.s. " Bonito " left Sydney in tow of the 
 " Egmont" with part of the exploratory party on board, in charge 
 of Mr. Hemsworth, Nautical Sub-leader. Drs. Haackc, Bernays, 
 and Messrs. Senior and Vogan following with myself in the 
 steamer " Wentworth.^^ We left Sydney about 4.30 p.m. on 
 Saturda}^, Juno 13th, the President, Sir E. Strickland, with the Administrative 
 Council, and many of our friends being kind enough to see the last of us, and bid 
 us God^s speed. Mr. Maiden, Hon. Secretary, accompanied us to Brisbane, 
 partly in connection with the departure of the expedition, but mainly to assist in 
 forming a new Branch of the Society in Brisbane, which I am glad to say is now 
 successfully formed. After a rather rough voyage we arrived in Brisbane 
 on Tuesday the 18th instant; the only notable event on the voyage being a 
 stoppage of some time near the wreck of the steamer " Cahors.'^ During our 
 short stay in Brisbane, Mr. Maiden and myself called upon such members of the 
 Queensland Ministry as were in town. We also were fortunate enough, through 
 the kindness of the Postmaster-General, to obtain the free use of the Government 
 telegraphs for the transmission of news to the Society. I here found, from the 
 Nautical Sub-leader's report, that the " Bonito " had encountered very heavy 
 weather on her passage, and was somewhat strained by a heavy sea striking her. 
 However, on inspecting her I found the damage was apparently not sufficient to 
 delay her voyage, and made arrangement for a temporary repair to enable her to 
 proceed on the morrow, thus avoiding a delay here as the steamer to Thursday 
 Island only connects once a fortnight. Accordingly the " Bonito " left Moreton 
 Bay at 2 p.m. on the 17th, in tow of s.s. " Wentworth.'' Our party with the 
 exception of Senior (who had joined the " Bonito '^ at Sandgate) leaving by the 
 s.s. "Alexandra" some hours later. I must here take the opportunity of 
 thanking the Queensland Government for their kindness and the assistance 
 so freely accorded us during the progress of the expedition. 
 
 Fi'om Brisbane to Cooktown we had a pleasant voyage, the " Alexandra " 
 taking the '' Bonito 'Mn tow from Townsville. At Cooktown we found the 
 steamer "Advance,'' which the Queensland Government had kindly sent lo
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILL'S REPORT. 171 
 
 convey us to the mouth of the river AirJ. I saw Cai)t:iin Williams the night wo 
 arrived, and found that he objected to go to the Aird, and he strongly recommended 
 me to go elsewhere ; but as my instructions did not permit my making such an 
 alteration in the plans of the Council, I of course could not discuss the question ; 
 explaining that the Society had matured their plans and issued their instructions 
 after considerable deliberation, and that I could not think of any deviation from 
 the line laid down by them, unless I had the direct evidence of its impractica- 
 bility from some one of local experience, which Captain Williams was unable to 
 give me; his objections being principally founded on rumour, and not on practical 
 experience. However, I telegraphed to the Society, but as the steamer left at 
 daylight next morning could not get a reply. I also, on Captain Williams's 
 request, put to paper what I had previously said. 
 
 We arrived at Thursday Island June 2oth, went alongside the A. S. N. 
 Company's hulk to coal and tranship provisions; but before doing this, in accord- 
 ance with my instructions, I had the " Bonito " surveyed, and found that she 
 required some repairs ; the heavy tow, together with the high seas experienced 
 between Sydney and Brisbane having strained her considerably. These repairs 
 were effected under the survey of Captain Wilkie, Government Pilot, and Captain 
 Dubbins of the " Elsca.'^ While these repairs were proceeding, the scientific 
 staff made what collections they could on Thursday and adjacent Islands. These 
 collections, together with some sketches and photos, were duly forwarded to the 
 Society before our departure, and I have learnt since our return that they were 
 very good, some novelties having been found among them ; so that it is satis- 
 factory to know that our unavoidable detention was not time lost. While at 
 Thursday Island I received a telegram from the President requesting me not to 
 attempt the Aird River or to cross the Gulf of Papua. This telegram altering 
 the whole plan of the expedition, and in fact forbidding me going eastward of the 
 ]Jiver Fly; but fortunately the llev. Mr. M'Farlane coming to Thursday Island 
 enabled me to obtain his valuable advice and experience ; and after some 
 consultation with him and the Hon. Mr. John Douglas, I resolved to go up the 
 river Fly, and to take the first largo branch to the eastward. Mr. M'Farlane, 
 who was then on his way to the river Fly, kiudly ofioriug to assist me in obtiiin- 
 ing interpreters, &c. This circumstance, together witii that of Mr. Douglas who 
 was also going to Kewei in the " Mavis," afforded us an excellent opportunity of 
 going in company, and giving the Society the advantage of the report of a good 
 clear start. 
 
 As a great deal has been written in the Prcs^ about our equipment of fire- 
 arms, 1 may hero state tliat the m;ij(jrity of the lirc-arms scut by Messrs.
 
 172 niilTISU NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Iloniiung- and Co. to Thursday Island wore found unsuitable from various causes, 
 and did not correspond with the copy I received from the Secretary of the 
 President's order to that firm (the fire-arms not being selected by myself, or any 
 opportunity of inspecting them having been given me before arrival at Thursday 
 Island), so I called a survey on them, and such as were condemned I sent back 
 to Sydney, and after considerable trouble, managed to replace them from Thurs- 
 day Island, Cooktowu, and Townsville. But when we left Thursday Island, our 
 armament was quite complete in every respect, as per list, and Sub-leader's 
 receipt forwarded to the Society, which I read. 
 
 List of Fire-arms. 
 
 8 Winchester repeating rifles, 
 
 3 Sniders, 
 
 6 Double- barrel fowling pieces, 
 
 1 Rook rifle, 
 
 5 Colt's improved revolvers (6 chambers), 
 
 13 Bull-dog revolvers (6 chambers), 
 with an abundance of cartridges and reloaders, with spare powder and shot. 
 
 These firearms were, I consider, quite sufficient for our party, consisting of 
 twelve Europeans and twelve Malays. 
 
 The repairs, together with the difficulty of obtaining firearms, detained us on 
 Thursday Island until July 14th; our party also here became one short — Mr. 
 Broadbent returning to Sydney sick — and on leaving Thursday Island consisted 
 of the following : — 
 
 Dr. Haacke, Chief Scientist (Zoology and Geology); 
 
 Dr. Bernays, M.D., and Botanist; 
 
 Mr. Hemsworth, Nautical Sub-leader ; 
 
 Mr. Creagh, Land Sub-leader ; 
 
 Mr. Froggart, Zoological Collector and Entomologist ; 
 
 Mr. Bauerlin, Botanical Collector ; 
 
 Mr. Senior, Surveyor and Explorer; 
 
 Mr. Shaw, Photographer and Explorer ; 
 
 Mr. Vogan, Artist and Explorer ; 
 
 Mr. M'Gechan, Engineer and Explorer ; 
 
 Mr. Waddick, Seaman and Explorer ; 
 and eleven Malays and one cook Cingalese, the Malay names being difficult 
 to remember. Some of the most facetious of the party re-christened them by the
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILUS REPORT 173 
 
 following names, which will be found used in the narratives. Marco Polo, 
 Barabas, Lucy, Scotch Lizzie, Anchises, Chandos, &c. 
 
 While in Thursday Island, wo received every assistance from the Hon. .Nfr. 
 John Douglas, and Mr. Bowden, of Messrs. Burns, Philp, and Co., was good 
 enough to place their jetty at our disposal, besides assisting us in many other 
 ways. 
 
 We left Thursday Island ; I having arranged a rendezvous with tlio " Mavis" 
 and " Mary " at Missionary Pass, it was intended that the " Advance " should 
 tow the " Bonito,'' but an incident prevented it. Hut liowever, we all arrived 
 at Missionary on July 17tli, excepting the "Mavis," and next morning left for 
 the Fly in tow of the "Advance." At noon the " Advance " cast us off at the 
 mouth of the Fly, and we proceeded under steam, follo^ving the missionary lugger 
 " ]\Iary," and at 4 p.m. anchored off Neboo, taking our first hold of Xew Ciuinca 
 soil. After anchoring, found the " ^lavis," which, through the kindness of the 
 Queensland Government and the Hon. John Douglas, had taken twenty tons of 
 coal for our use, was on the other side of the island, and we made arrangements 
 for getting her up next day. 
 
 Neboo, the first settlement made by the missionaries, is a large, low, sandy 
 island, with an abundance of cocoa-nut and other palms growing on it. It does 
 not appear to contain any regular inhabitants, but the natives from the neigh- 
 bouring islands and villages come periodically to collect nuts and cut the nepa 
 ])iilm-leavcs for roofing their houses. The missionary establishment is now moved 
 from Neboo to Kewei. The anchorage is a deep channel between two islands, 
 where a vessel can lie in smooth water. In the river, which is very wide licrc, a 
 very nasty sea and swell is constantly expei'ienccd during the south-east 
 monsoons. We remained at Neboo until Sunday morning, July 10th, when our 
 squadron (now consisting of the " Mavis," " Mary," " Venture," and " Bonito") 
 went over to Kewei, which is a village situated on the north side of the cliaunel. 
 After anchoring there, Messrs. Douglas, MacFarlane, Captain Cater, and ujysclf, 
 went on shore, taking four of the " Mavis " men with us. I intrndi'd to have 
 landed a collecting jiarty, but it was not ccmsiilered wise to do so ; the old cliief, 
 Duropa, having attacked the teachers of the mission a month or so previously, 
 with a view of making bacon or "long pig" of them, wild pigs being un- 
 commonly scarce that season. .Mr. Douglas and myself landed lirsi, and found a 
 few natives comjiletely naked, grouped in front of a large liouse, the pnnci]»al of 
 whoju was an old white-headed num, intelligent looking, to wliom Mr. Douglas, 
 with his usual good nature, immediately gave a new suit of serge clothes, and 
 assisted him to don them. This was hardly done, when up eamc Mr. MacFarlane,
 
 171 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 with Captain Cater, and to our great dismay wo found that we had made friends 
 with the wrony man, and that it was the chief '* cannibal himself" that wo had 
 been making " chums " with. We remained on shore the rest of the day, and 
 walked through the villages and plantations, seeing some curious looking graves, 
 and some remarkably fine sago palms. The natives did not strike me as being 
 particularly friendly. We saw no women ; all the houses on Duropa's side of the 
 creek being closed up, and the men and women had gone to another village on 
 the approach of our vessels, but I distinctly heard the voices of women in 
 suppressed tones inside the houses. 
 
 Kewei consists of two villages, separated by a salt-water creek. The natives 
 on the east side of the creek (which is bridged by a method peculiar to the Malay 
 countries) being far more friendly than those on the west. There appears to be 
 no fresh water near the village. We intended to have landed some coal here, 
 and to have formed a depot, but the sea and surf were too heavy to attempt it, 
 and we concluded to make the depot at Sumanti, the next large river further up, 
 and after finishing our business here. AVe left Kewei for Sumanti at noon, 
 20th July, the "^^ Mary " going back to Thursday Island, and the '' Mavis ^' 
 accompanying us. We anchored off the village about 4 p.m., and when about 
 to land discovered that by some mistake no interpreters had been brought. 
 Sumanti lies at the mouth of a creek, at the edge of which we saw a number of 
 natives waving a white flag. I landed with four Europeans and four Malays of 
 my own party, armed, and found the natives exceedingly friendly, and after 
 distributing some presents among them returned on board. We remained here 
 landing coal and spare stores until July 23rd, and the scientific staff collecting. 
 We found the natives very docile and friendly on the whole, Mr. Douglas 
 especially succeeding in gaining their friendship and I may say affection. After 
 the departure of the " Mavis," I succeeded in obtaining the services of three 
 Papuans, viz., Korossa, Atar, and Gesau, who have since attained considerable 
 notoriety throughout the world. I left Sumanti the same afternoon about four 
 hours after the " Mavis," and pushed up the river as rapidly as possible, my 
 object being to get up the river while the party were fresh, and before sickness 
 attacked us. We found little difficulty in getting through the islands at the 
 north of the river, and clearly made out the passage at the north end of the 
 Kewei, hitherto not named, and which I purpose naming Griffiths Channel ; the 
 north-west point of Kewei, C. Dickson ; and keeping- the whale-boat ahead 
 sounding, wo reached the main banks of the river Fly on Saturday, July 2oth, 
 naming the point to the southward, which is a good distinguishing mark, and 
 the first point that you can get between the regular banks, Fortescuc Point.
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILUS REPORT. 175 
 
 Here aro two or three larg^e villages on the south side of the river, but the water 
 was too shallow on that side to go close in ; so standing across to the north side 
 of the river, we found a deeper channel. The right or north bank of the river 
 here appears to form another entrance from the sea farther to the eastward. This 
 entrance I have named tho M'llwraith Channel, in commemoration of the first 
 annexation of New Guinea by tho M'll wraith Ministry. "Wo now steamed between 
 tho main banks of this river. Tho river here is wide, and there aro at least two 
 deep-water channels, but also a number of shoals and sand-banks. Tho trees 
 are very high and the foliage is luxuriant. In places on tho left bank aro 
 numbers of cocoa-nut and banana plantations. We also began to get among tho 
 pandarus, and a very bright green tree, commonly known as the fresh water 
 mangrove. Wo saw no signs of natives on the north side, excepting a bridge 
 across a creek. The greater portion of tho country appeared very swampy, and 
 the banks are only just out of tho reach of high water. We passed on tho north 
 side two lots of red cliffs, forming small hills forty feet high. Ono of theao 
 corresponds with D'Alberti's Howling Place. Passing through tho Fairfax 
 Group, which is formed of small islands almost under water, very thickly wooded 
 with high trees, we anchored for tho night ; next morning wo proceeded up the 
 river, meeting tho same kind of scenery, low banks, covered in places with tho 
 fresh-water mangrove, and again we found the banks ten and fourteen feet higli 
 in detached and broken places, and composed of red clay. Wo also came across 
 immonso numbers of Hying foxes. We saw no signs of permanent houses, but 
 ilie remains of temporary shelters, and the only sign of human life was a solitary 
 canoe made fixst into the bank. Animal life was well represented by black 
 cockatoos, numerous pigeons, hornbills, small green parrots, lorrykoets, with 
 plenty of swallows and smaller birds. The banks of tho river were a littlo higher 
 (in places), and had been cleared in places, now overgrown with coarse grass 
 and bamboo, tho remains of native houses. Wo found very deep water, seven 
 and eight fathoms, no bottom. The weather was squally, with showers and 
 strong south-east winds blowiug. Higher up the river, as we neared tho Ellen- 
 gowan Island, tho banks appeared covered in places with a species of long reeds 
 or grass, of tho same family as sugar-cane ; and wherever these appear there is 
 generally a mud or sand-flat extending a little way from tho shore. Wo went 
 round tho north side of Ellengowan Island, and on getting to tho west of it, saw 
 a village on the south side, but did not stop. Above Kllongtnvan Island, tho 
 birds appear to become scarcer; but in some places tho trees were literally black 
 with (lying foxes, hanging like pears on a tree. Tho vegetation appears tho 
 sami', but there are no signs of c<»c<ia-nuts to be f'und Iuto ; and from the mast- 
 
 n 1!
 
 170 TiRITTSII NEW GUINEA. 
 
 head tho country presents a more open appearance. The river above Ellcngowan 
 Island is not nearly so straight as it is below, it winds in almost complete circles, 
 so that progress up country was much slower here. Alligator tracks are very 
 niiincrous, tho country generally low and swampy, and very few birds about. 
 We did not see any natives for a considerable distance, until we saw a canoe 
 round a point ahead, with some men, apparently drawing their bows. We 
 stationed our party to act on the defensive, and held out a large table-cloth as a 
 sign of friendship. On rounding the point we found a large number of canoes 
 full of men, who kept pulling ahead, close into the bank, until they entered a 
 small creek. On both sides of the river there were a large number of low houses, 
 roofed in a very primitive manner, and standing about four feet high; these 
 houses were apparently abandoned by everybody excepting one man, who 
 extended his arms, evidently to show that he was not armed, and was friendly 
 disposed. He was black, and perfectly nude, excepting the usual shell, which 
 the Sumautese call " We-der-ow." The creek that the canoes had entered we 
 found connected with the river round a small grassy island. I did not stop to 
 communicate with these natives ; but as we passed them I saw several of them 
 in the trees watching us, and when we had passed by, the canoes came out of the 
 creek again, apparently greatly relieved at our not having molested them. AVe 
 now found the country altering a great deal. The outstretching spits were now 
 more sandy than before, and the country appeared more open ; grassy plains 
 stretching to the westward, where I could also see several lagoons inland, and to 
 the north-west there appeared higher land thickly wooded. About 4.30 p.m. on 
 the same day, July 28th, we came to a junction of the river, one arm going north- 
 east and the other north-west. On the east point of this junction, where the sand 
 spit extended, it was completely covered with large logs of drift-wood, forming, 
 in fact, a complete timber stack. I carefully examined both branches, and 
 finding a strong current and large logs of wood drifting down the north-east 
 branch, determined upon ascending that river, it lying in the direction the 
 Society wished to explore. This branch joins the Fly in latitude 7 degrees 34 
 minutes south, longitude 141 degrees 21 minutes east; I named this the Strick- 
 land River, in honour of Sir E. Strickland, President of the Administrative 
 Council of this Society, and Chairman of the Melbourne Geographical Conference, 
 at which the New Guinea Expedition was decided upon. We upon the voyage 
 wondered why this river was not noticed in Mr. Hargrave's notes concerning the 
 exploration of the river Fly {vide vol. i. of the Society's proceedings), and 
 unfortunately had no copy of D'Alberti's work with us ; but since returning I 
 have read his work on New Guinea, and find in vol. ii., page 260, that he dis-
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILUS REPORT. 177 
 
 covered this opening, and says in his account of his third voyage : — " For half 
 our voyage the river appeared to bo of the same breadtli, but after we had passed 
 a large openiog, which occurs on the right bank, in a north-easterly direction, 
 and which I must confess I do not remember observing last year, it becomes 
 much narrower, and runs between two banks covered with grass. I think the 
 opening Ave saw to-day may be the river Alice, which, after leaving the Fly River 
 at Snake Point, returns here. I intend on our return to explore it " (which, 
 however, ho never did). I may here say that, on our retuni, wo ascended tho 
 Fly for two and a half hours twelve minutes, and found the country above tho 
 junction much as D'Albertis describes it, and tho Fly taking a westerly, and even 
 a west-south-westerly dii'cction ; and even the country on the south side of tho 
 Fly and that on the east side of the Strickland Itiver differ greatly in my opinion. 
 Ascending tho Strickland River we stopped one day for collecting and cuttin-"" 
 fire-wood ; and proceeding upwards found tho current getting much stronger, and 
 at first we saw no signs of natives. Tho sand-spits became more numerous, and 
 tho sand is of a darker colour. A little higher up we again began to pass native 
 shelters, and some small canoes. In tho bends of tho river there were many 
 large logs of drift timber stranded ; also many lai-ge snags stationary in the 
 middle of the channel, now easily kept clear of as they were in sight. Rut they 
 would have proved very dangerous if tho river had been a few feet higher. Still 
 higher up, the banks began to rise a little, and the trees and vegetation changed. 
 The river is constantly changing its channel ; one side continually being washed 
 away, while a bank is forming on tho other ; and in places tho water appears to 
 have cut a new channel, and formed comparatively large islands in tho midille of 
 the river, with tho stream running on both sides. Tho newly-formed land is 
 covered in some places with a short bright green grass ; in others with long 
 reeds. Tho red cliffs also occur again in small hillocks, 25 to 40 feet high. 
 They are formed of red and yellow ochre ; tho side facing tho river genonilly 
 being steeji, and almost perpendicular; and it appears as if the water had 
 literally cut its way through them. Tho other side presents tho usual flat bank, 
 Avith brown alluvial soil, and is thickly wooded with forest trees. These hills 
 occur very frcfiuenlly, an<l wherever found the river makes n broad circuit and 
 comes up with them again after some distance has been traversed. \\'r now 
 found tho native shelters and abandoned houses becoming more plentiful; and, 
 though wo saw no natives we heard them, and also hoard their dogs howling. 
 'J'ho level of tho river we found to bo rapidly rising, the current getting stronger, 
 and its direction more circuitous. We continued to ascend tho river, stopping 
 in the forennon to collect and take observations, still passing tho suuic scenery;
 
 178 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 but tlio rain squalls were now loft boliind, and the air became clearer. At 8 a.m. 
 on Sunday, August 2nd, on rounding a bend, a change of scenery took place ; a 
 grassy flat appearing ahead, and to the westward of us the country appeared 
 more open from E.N.E. to S.E., and a little further up I found that the river 
 formed a largo circle, and branched to the E. S.E. and N.N.E. I kept to tho 
 easterly one, as it turned to the north a little higher up ; but the other branch 
 (which I have since named the Service River) will, I think be found to connect with 
 the river Fly at Snake Point, opposite the junction of tho Alice River — in fact 
 that south-south-easterly branch which D'Albortis speaks of. The river now got 
 }i]uch more difficult to navigate, on account of the large snags in the middle of 
 tho stream. The water constantly undermining the concave bank, when tho 
 freshets come down very large portions of tho bank are washed away, leaving 
 the trees in the middle of the river, where they lodge, and in places almost form 
 rapids. For instance, we passed close here some enormous trees grounded in 
 45 feet of water, and forming a fence of snags in two or three places right 
 across the river, leaving barely room for the *' Bonito " to steer between them. 
 A few miles above Service Junction we saw some canoes full of people, who at 
 first showed a hostile front, but, as we approached nearer, deserted their canoes 
 and took to the jungle. I showed a white flag, and made friendly signs, but 
 without efiect, and landing a party tried to communicate but did not succeed in 
 assuring them of our friendly intentions. I left them some presents of cloth, 
 tomahawks, tobacco, beads, &c., and selecting some articles from their canoes, 
 which were very full of their household goods, proceeded on our voyage. The 
 cui-rent was now getting too strong for us to stem when burning a mixture of 
 wood and coal, as we had been doing for some days, and we had to burn all coal 
 to get steam enough to make headway at all. On Monday, August ord, our first 
 and only serious brush with the natives occurred. Early in the morning we saw 
 a number of canoes on a sand-spit, and on approaching, finding some of the 
 natives standing their ground, I took the dingy, and with two Malays, pulled for 
 the shore, standing up in the boat with my arms outstretched to give them con- 
 fidence, and to show that I was not armed. I landed, thinkins" that the fact of 
 my being unarmed and distributing presents among them, would perhaps gain 
 their friendship and confidence, but I soon found myself placed in a very critical 
 position ; the natives increasing in numbers, and coming up in full war paint, 
 brandishing their weapons, and some of them pointing their arrows at me. In 
 fact, the only way I prevented them from shooting was by walking towards such 
 of them as appeared the most hostile, and assuming an unconcern which I confess 
 I was far from feeling. I remained on shore perhaps fifteen or twenty minutes
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILL'S REPORT. 179 
 
 and thought myself very lucky in getting off with a whole skin. The story of 
 the attack afterwards made is fully written in my journal, and all I will here say 
 of the matter is, that finding it impossible to communicate with them I steamed 
 up the river, the natives following along the banks. On ncaring the beud wo 
 saw a village which the natives made for. Seeing them hostile, 1 blew the steam 
 whistle, which they did not appear to mind. They now mustered eighty to ono 
 hundred fighting men (there were only forty-six when 1 interviewed them on 
 shore), and seeing them make preparations to fire I called the man in from leading, 
 and sent the Malay off the bridge, taking the wheel myself. In less time than it 
 takes to relate we were saluted with a perfect shower of an'ows, some striking and 
 some going over the vessel ; luckily none of us being liit. I reluctantly gave 
 the order to fire, and they were dispersed after some shots. The same afternoon 
 we grounded on the first hard bottom wo had met with in the river, and being 
 only about four miles miles from the village, were placed in a very dangerous 
 position. Finding the water leaving us raj)idly, with a view to meet any 
 emergency, after landing the coal, &c., to lighten the vessel, I had a clearing 
 made, and built the framework of a house, intending to make a permanent depot 
 there in case of the water not risiug, or in the event of anything happening to 
 the "Bonito.^' The clearing was made, and the house ready fur roofing when, 
 on August 8th, the water rose, and the " Bonito " was afioat again. Taking in 
 the stores again as quickly as possible, wo proceeded up the river. AVe named 
 this reach " Douglas Bend,^' after the Hon. John Douglas, C.M.G. The bed of 
 the river is hero composed of hard largo shingle, and the current is so rnjnd that 
 it is impossible to stem it with a boat. Just above where we stranded wo found 
 a passage with only eight feet of water on it during the freshets. Proceeding 
 onwards, the river began to get much shallower, in places giving barely water 
 enough for the " Bonito " to steam over, and a hard shinglo bottom formed 
 tho bed of the river, with no anchorage for the rest of our voyage. The red 
 clilVs became more numerous, and increased in height as we got further up. At 
 5 p.m. on August Dth, wo camo to a dead stop, tho river dividing, and neither 
 cliannol containing enough water for us. Here we remained fourteen dnya before 
 the water rose and enabled us to proceed further up. During this time wo 
 cx])lored and collected round this neighbourhood, and made an attempt to cut 
 our way into tho interior, but did not succeed in getting more than ten miles. 
 \V'hile hero, also, our throe Sumantese, Korossa, Gesau, aud Atau, deserted us. 
 As it has been stated that wo were massacred in our sleep, and no watch was kept 
 (although on whose authority 1 do uvl know), I may say that the Doctor and 
 one J\ia!ay were on watch, and awake too when the wily Papuans left. We had
 
 180 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ostal)lishe(l a camp some distance from the vessel, and meant to try and cut 
 inland from there, when, on August 23rd the waters again rose, and we steamed 
 further up. On August 24th and 25th we again cut inland in hopes of seeing 
 the mountains, and attained a position of 250 feet high, by climbing a tree on the 
 top of a hill, but could find no trace of highland or clear country. We proceeded 
 further up the river, searching vainly for the mountains, until we finally grounded, 
 on August 27th, where, as has already been related, the " Bonito '' remained 
 until October 21st. But not without incident, for on the 31st instant, the gravel 
 washing away from under her caused a capsize, and it was only by the great 
 exertions of the party that the provisions were landed, and most likely a great 
 disaster averted, the capsize taking place in the middle of the night, and the 
 vessel filling with water almost immediately. The conduct of the party on this 
 occasion is deserving of the highest praise. After this we housed all our stores 
 on shore, half of us camping and half remaining on board. In the midst of our 
 troubles we had a visit from hostile natives, who luckily were dispersed without 
 bloodshed. After righting the '^ Bonito,''^ drying and housing our stores, we 
 again tried to cut inland, but found too many difficulties in the way to hope for 
 any success in gaining the mountains in that way ; so after two or three pre- 
 liminary excursions in which we could find no definite traces of mountains or open 
 country, I organized a boat expedition, and on September 16th, left Mr. Hems- 
 worth in command on board the " Bonito,'^ with the following party : — 
 
 Dr. Bernays, in charge of sick, which numbered seven. 
 
 Senior, sick. 
 
 Vogan, sick. 
 
 Bauerlin, to continue his collecting. 
 
 M'Gechan, engineer. 
 
 Malays — Mandore, sick, boil and fever. 
 
 Carpenter, cut his leg half through with an axe. 
 
 Barabas, foot injured. 
 
 Fireman, ditto. 
 
 Anchises, fever and unsound. 
 
 Lous, cook, troubled with fever and not fit for hard work. 
 "We broke up the camp on shore, having previously built a house for the pro- 
 visions under the bank where it was covered by the rifles of the " Bonito." 
 
 The whale-boat party consisted of Dr. Haacks, Messrs. Froggart, Shaw, 
 Creagh (Sub-leader), Waddick, six Malays — the only sound ones at my disposal 
 — and myself. 
 
 We named our station here '' Observatory Bend; " it is in lat. 6" 38' 30" S.
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILVS REPORT. 181 
 
 long. 142" E. Our boat contained tents, trade, instruments, Sec, and with ten 
 days' provisions, twelve men, sails, awning, &c., was fully laden, in fact too 
 crowded for convenience. It being my intention to try and discover the position 
 of the mountains, and failing to do that to ascend the river as far as possible. 
 
 Accordingly we proceeded on the morning of the IGth, sometimes using tho 
 oars in the slack water reaches, but mostly six or eight hands wading through 
 the water tracking or towing the boat with a rope over tho sharp stones. We 
 frequently had to cress and recross the nver, sometimes to cut away snags to get 
 the boat through, the river becoming more ditHcult if possible every mile wo 
 ascended ; even if tho " Bonito " had not been stranded she could not have got 
 two miles further up the river. The Red Hills becoming more frequent and 
 rising in altitude as we ascended, but still of tho same formation, excepting that 
 the lower strata is very much honeycombed and of a duller colour. Tho birds 
 were represented by parrots, hornbills, many and various descriptions of pigeons, 
 including tho Goura or crested pigeon, night herons, eaglets, swifts, swallows, 
 cockatoos white and black, many varieties of king-fishers and king-Iiuntcrs, 
 small insect and honey-eating birds, cassowaries, oriels, and occasionally we havo 
 heard tho note of the bird of Paradise. We had not yet seen any four-footed 
 animals in New Guinea, and only tracks of pigs, and some which wo afterwards 
 found to be those of bandicoots and rats. There were many tracks of alligators, 
 which caused rae considerable anxiety, as our men were in the water fully thrco- 
 (juarters of the day. Also, wo found many tracks of river turtle, but although 
 wo frequently tried the river with fishing-lines wo caught nothing, and even by 
 dynamiting all tho likely places we only got a few cat-fish and some smaller 
 species resembling minnows. There were many descriptions of non-edible wild 
 fruits, including a largo variety of figs, a species of broad-fruit just fruiting, 
 which afterwards proved an excellent article of food ; tho sago palm appears to 
 nourish everywhere about here, as wo found it in more or less quantities through- 
 out our journey. Tree ferns also began to get plentiful ; but I leave tho 
 details of these important subjects to bo treated by the special scientists who 
 accompanied tho Expedition, and to proceed on our journey. Tho river 
 must havo been unusually low oven for the dry season when wo ascended it, and 
 is very noticeable hero from tho immense gravel wastes or circuit of shingle and 
 stone that was now i-xposcd to view from the low state of the water ; in places 
 there being a distance of 1 to 2 miles between tlio banks proper of tho river ; 
 tho intervening space being filled with tho dry beds of the river, and small 
 islands formed by tho deposits of sand and silt, some of those i.slands being 
 thickly wooded. In another place tho river runs between two stacks or neatly
 
 182 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 piled licaps of largo stono or shingle, as level and neatly stacked as if placed by 
 hand, and in ilicso places, nearly always forming a rapid, the water rising its 
 level very fast, that sometimes on looking over the narrow ledge we were tracking 
 the boat along wo found the water to be 10 and 12 feet lower than where 
 our boat was floating, giving it the appearance of a lock-gate only being parallel 
 with the river instead of crossing it. This is of course caused by the channel 
 being blocked or blind, and the water having the same level as the lower water- 
 level of the rapid. In some places these rapids were very difficult of ascent.^ 
 One place notably, we were twelve of us one hour and twenty minutes in the 
 water holding on to the boat, scarcely gaining anything, the stones shifting and 
 washing away from under our feet with such force that sometimes the bow of tho 
 boat was afloat and the stern high and dry with the force of the current washing 
 or wedging the stones under her. It was only with the utmost difficulty that we 
 could prevent the boat from obtaining the mastery : for the bow to have moved 
 round one point of the compass meant to us the loss of arms, ammunition, food, 
 boat, and everything else, and this at a distance of 70 miles from the depot was 
 at least serious. The ascent in the whale-boat proved very trying work to the 
 party, made as it was under a tropical sun directly overhead, our latitude and tho 
 sun's declination being almost approximate. These gravel wastes or cii-cles 
 form natural reservoirs, and during the rainy season are of course full of water, 
 and must form quite lakes or lagoons whenever freshets come down the river. 
 AVe ascended thus for seven days without much change of scenery, during which 
 time we saw no natives, but passed plenty of shelters, and occasionally the recent 
 foot-prints of small parties, and although the red hills got higher as we ascended, 
 they still kept the east side of the river, and we could not see the mountains. 
 The channels becoming narrower, and snags more awkward and numerous as we 
 advanced, making it very difficult to prevent the boat being stove. 
 
 On September 22nd, after coming up a long straight reach, we dropped upon 
 a recent camp of natives on a gravel spit where the river makes a junction and 
 receives a large tributary apparently directly from the mountains. I think they 
 must have taken the boat for some new animal seeking to devour them, for they 
 fled on first sighting us, leaving everything behind them, even to their fire-sticks. 
 This tributary goes to the north-north-east, while the main river takes a 
 westerly bend. I name this the Carrington Junction, and the river the Cecilia 
 Uiver, named in honor of Lady Carrington. 
 
 To me the deposit of stone and sand coming from this river differs somewhat 
 
 N-B. — Wc always had to get into the water, and drag and carry the boat over.
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILL'S REPORT. 183 
 
 from that of the Strickland. There appeared to be more of the lignite or coal 
 mixed with the stone, and the magnetic iron-sand was much purer and heavier. 
 Much as I should have liked to examine the Cecilia I had to keep to the main 
 stream ; and leaving a large present clo.se to the food the natives had abandoned, 
 and planting a red ensign on a pole, wo proceeded. 
 
 About here, there must bo at times immense bodies of water coming down. 
 There are a number of dry channels to be seen, looking like roads cut through 
 the high forest trees ; they are almost as straight and regular as if made by the 
 hands of man ; from 80 to 200 yards wide, and many of them contain a fall of, I 
 should think, 1 in 100 feet. 
 
 Soon after passing this junction wo saw many signs of human life, and passed 
 somo houses and a very primitive raft. I was also pleased to see tlie hills, which 
 hitherto have only appeared on the east side, are now to bo found on both sides, 
 the river now cutting right through them. 
 
 The land here is swampy ; back from the river and in the gulloys close to 
 the hills the sago palm appears very plentiful, and there are also plenty of natives 
 hereabouts. The level of the river is also rising very rapidly ; it has quite 
 become a caso of getting upstairs to ascend the rapids at all. 1 should estimate a 
 rise of 30 feet in tho water-level in half a mile in some places. 
 
 Tho current was so strong that wo had to use a number of devices to ascend, 
 and tho snags outlying from tho banks made it very dangerous ; tho current 
 rushing over and round them made it appear like a series of boiling whirlpools 
 and breakers, and in many places we had to pass a long rope under tho snags 
 up the river, and make it fast to a snag or tree in tho bank, then sheer the boat 
 outsido or between the snags, and haul up foot by foot, fleeting tho rope again 
 and again until we came to easier ground. 
 
 l]ut on tho afternoon of Thursday, September 2 Ith, on rounding a ])uint wo 
 were rewarded by the sight of a low range of hills about 1,000 feet high, over 
 which was a complete view of two distinct ranges of mountains, tho nearer ono 
 perhaps 50 miles,^ and tho farther one 80. The river now became straightcr, 
 and ran between high steep banks, or rather a scries of small hills. 1 estimated 
 wo wore about 18 miles from tho lowest range of hills, and between us and their 
 base tho country formed a scries of low hill-ranges 200 to 300 foot high, gradually 
 increasing in height as they wont north. 
 
 Wo were now nine days from our depot, and our provisions were nearly 
 liuished, part of them having been spoiled by tho boat getting stove oa wo 
 
 ' Vim Miii'llcr rtingc. 
 C C
 
 184. imiTTSH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ascondod a rapid ; but determining to reach the hills wo pushed very hard during 
 the ensuing tliroo days, and finally reached the base of the hills on Sunday, 
 Soptomber 27th, twelve days after leaving the " Bonito." The river about here 
 presents a most beautiful appearance ; in one place, for instance, a long, straight 
 reach, with the hills rising in places perpendicularly 300 feet from the river, 
 which is about 50 to GO feet wide, and flows with groat force through the gully 
 or funnel formed by the high banks, which are covered with beautiful trees on 
 the top, and even their steep sides are covered with plants and vegetation, 
 among which, flowering creepers, ground orchids, ferns, and tree-ferns are 
 numerous. The country appears to be comparatively thickly populated. We 
 passed a number of houses and clearings, and a great many very small canoes. 
 But the natives about here appear to be a very timid race ; had they been hostile 
 they might easily have done us considerable damage, without our even seeing 
 them; as it was we ascended expecting a shower of arrows every minute ; but 
 instead of attacking us they fled from their houses at our approach, and the 
 only one we caught sight of was of a light copper-colour, well made, and clean- 
 limbed, and ornamented with the usual shell. We did not attempt to enter 
 their houses on the way up, but left presents on the banks opposite the houses ; 
 but on coming down, on examining them, found the houses had all been deserted 
 for some days, and the presents untouched. 
 
 On arriving at the base of the highest range of hills our provisions were 
 finished, excepting one meal and a little Liebeg's extract, so necessity compelled 
 almost immediate return. However, Dr. Haacke, Mr. Shaw, and myself, with 
 three Malays and two dogs, commenced the ascent of what we thought to be the 
 highest hill, and were lucky enough to gain a ridge or spur, which we followed 
 over one hill 310 feet high, and from there ascended another 460 feet, where, as 
 Dr. Haacke wished to return, I sent a Malay back with him, and proceeding 
 with Shaw and the others gained the top of the hill, which the aneroid showed 
 to be 750 feet ; but to our great disgust we found that other hills still higher 
 obscured our view to the N.W. and N.N.E., and as it was near sunset we had to 
 return. We were fortunate enough to get down all right and reached the camp 
 one hour after sunset, completely done up, rifle, revolver, axe, &c., being a very 
 heavy handicap for hill-climbing on short commons. 
 
 I estimated the highest position reached to be latitude 5' 30'' S., longitude 
 142" 22 E. Unfortunately we had very heavy thunderstorms at night while up 
 here, which prevented good observations being taken ; but I have a very fair 
 l)osition, taken from a native house, marked on plan, taken on Monday, Septem- 
 ber 2Sth, on our homeward journey.
 
 CAPTAIN EVERILUS REPORT. 185 
 
 The country hereabouts, and right as fivr as wo could see to the northwards, 
 is composed of undulating hills, very heavily wooded, which appear to go as far 
 as the Von Mueller Range. The further range we saw was very high indeed, 
 and I think considerably above snow-level. This range will in all probability 
 turn out to be the northern coastal range. 
 
 The lower hills will I think be found admirably adapted for growing coffee, cin- 
 chona, cocoa, gutta, and other valuable tropical productions, while the lower alluvial 
 lands cannot fail to produce rice and other grain.' But the report of Baron von 
 Mueller, when he has classified the botanical specimens, will be an invaluable proof 
 of the nature of the soil and its probable value for future plantations. I also 
 expect some valuable timber will be found among the forty specimens that wo 
 have brought back, and which as yet are not classified. I look upon the 
 botanical collection as perhaps the mo.st valuable work done on the Expedition. 
 
 On Monday, 28th, about 10 a.m., wo commenced our return, collecting a few 
 ethnological specimens on the way down, and arrived safely at Bonito Depot, 
 Observatory Bend, on the night of 29th, and found all well there. I intended 
 to have ascended the river again, but the health of the party would not allow it, 
 most of the river party being laid up after our return. That circumstance, 
 together with the dangerous position of the vessel, decided me to do all that was 
 possible in the way of collecting until the water rose, and then to commence our 
 return journey, stopping and giving as much time to the collectors as circum- 
 stances would permit. Keeping in mind my instructions, and the necessity of 
 catching the steamer leaving Thursday Island November 21.st. This I adhered 
 to ; and as time and space does not permit me to detail our homeward journey, 
 I will briefly state that we left Observatory Bend, October 25th, leaN-ing one 
 Malay buried there, and the health of the party far from good at that time, 
 safely journeying down the Strickland River with a few adventures-, meeting far 
 more natives than we had supposed lived on the river. On one occasion, in a 
 thickly populated place, which I estimate contained 2,000 natives, what 
 threatened to be a serious tragedy was turned into a comedy by our blowing the 
 Syren whistle, which on that occasion cert^iinly Nived the lives of a great number 
 of natives and perhaps of some of our own party ; but proceeding, wo left Strick- 
 land Junction, November 9th, Sumarti, November loth, Mouth of the Fly, 
 November 18th, and arrived at Thursday Island at 10.30 a.m. on November 28th 
 (up to time) . On arrival there, finding a relief party had gone to our a,ssist- 
 ance, on consulting with the lion. J. Douglas, wo despatched a lugger with 
 
 • (Jood stisrnr rountrv.
 
 186 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 ]\rr. Senior in charge to recall tlicm. Mr. Senior earnestly requested this duty- 
 might bo allotted to him, which I did on the Doctor's assurance that it would in 
 all probability benefit his health, which was far from good, and was not likely to 
 stop or impede his recovery. It is only fair to the rest of the party to say that 
 there were plenty of other volunteers for that service. 
 
 We left Thursday Island on November 21st, in tow of s.s. '' Alexandra," and 
 arrived in Sydney on December 3rd, all well, and on behalf of the Exploratory 
 Party I beg to return our most hearty thanks for the very generous and cordial 
 reception we received from the Society and public, and also for the kind and 
 deep interest felt for us when we were supposed to be in trouble. 
 
 In conclusion, I also report that the Expedition was entirely dependent on 
 its own resources. I was scarcely able to supplement our provisions at all, 
 game of all kinds being very scarce, and extremely shy. It was from first to 
 last conducted on temperance principle, no stimulants being taken as stores 
 excepting as medical comforts. I hold the opinion that any hard work can be 
 performed just as well without alcohol as with it. 
 
 Quinine was also taken by all the party daily from the time we left Thursday 
 Island until we returned there, but even that did not prevent our suffering rather 
 severely from fever, as four of the Europeans were dangerously ill, but there is 
 no doubt in my mind that it was extremely beneficial in staving off malaria : and 
 finally, in conducting the Expedition, I have endeavoured to follow out my line 
 of instruction as well as I could, and to keep in mind the duty I owed to this 
 Society, the members of the Expedition, and the natives of the country we were 
 sent to explore, and can at least congratulate myself that no serious complication 
 with the natives arose at all, and I think other parties that may follow in our 
 footsteps will benefit from any communications we had with the native tribes. 
 
 Captain Everill was heartily cheered at the conclusion of his address, and His 
 Excellency the Chairman invited discussion. 
 
 Mr. Mann said that, after having carefully examined the map, and having 
 listened to the leader's remarks, he was inclined to think that the country which 
 had been traversed was a series of deltas or islands. Possibly, also, the Aird 
 River might unite with the Strickland. It was very probable that future explo- 
 rations would bear out this idea. 
 
 Dr. Belgrave thought that Captain Everill might well be congratulated upon 
 the success of the expedition. (Hear, hear.) He was only away some four 
 months, and about three thousand speciiuens were collected, in addition to 
 exploration work and its attendant risks. He had discovered, amongst other
 
 CAPTAIN EVEEILrS REPORT. 187 
 
 things, most valuable and extensive cedar forests, and also a site for what might 
 prove a city, from whence the interior of the island might bo explored. The 
 expedition was a success, and it well repaid the money and the labour which had 
 been expended, and ho heartily congratulated the leader and his party. It 
 would be, in his (Dr. Belgrave's) opinion, a mistake to continue sending expedi- 
 tions, and he advocated the formation of settlements. (Hear, hear.) Some 
 central settlement could be made, for instance, not far from the junction of the 
 Strickland and the Fly Rivers. He would like to be informed whether any 
 communication had been received from Mr. Stockdulo with reference to an 
 expedition. 
 
 Sir Edward Strickland said that he had recently received a communication 
 from that gentleman, but he had not yet perused it, and until he had done so no 
 answer could be given. 
 
 Mr. THOMrsoN, the Secretary of the Queensland Branch of the Society 
 thought that thanks were due to Captain Everill, for many reasons ; not tho 
 least of which was the establishment of friendly relationships -sNnth tho natives, 
 and the saving of white men's lives. He disagreed with Dr. Bclgrave, and 
 believed that the time was not yet ripe for tho establishment of a central depot. 
 The Society and tho public now had an idea of what was really required to 
 explore a tropical country like Now Guinea, and the knowledge would bo of 
 extreme benefit in future. He suggested that in succeeding expeditions there 
 should be fewer Europeans and more Malays. When discontent commenced in 
 a party it was like a cancer, and ate its way into the heart of tho enterprise. 
 He felt certain that the world in general would hereafter thank Captain Everill 
 and those who had formed tho expedition. (Cheers.) He had much pleasure 
 in moving that the Society's hearty thanks bo accorded to them. 
 
 Mr. Du Fadr seconded the proposition, and it was carried unanimously. 
 
 Sir Edward Stuickland, on behalf of tho members of tho Society, then pre- 
 sented Captain Everill with an illuminated address, which had been signed by 
 tho various officers, and was inscribed to tho leader and tho members of tho 
 party. Ho briefly alluded to the value of geographical research, and highly 
 eulogized the efforts of tho explorers. Ho expressed the hope that the expedi- 
 tion would bo supplemented by others, and that tho public would benefit greatly 
 thereby. Tho present one had shown how future trips might be carried out 
 more economically. Ho looked upon tho work as a very gallant one (Lord 
 Can-ington : Hear, hear), and he liopcd that one and till would join in congratu- 
 lating Captain Everill and his comrades upon having done their duty to their 
 country and to tlioso who liatl cuiployed thoin. (Cheers.)
 
 188 BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 
 
 Captain Everill cordially acknowledged the gift, and he referred to the sin- 
 cere feelings of thankfulness which he and each of his party had experienced, and 
 had expressed, for the assistance which had been offered upon the occasion of the 
 rumour of their massacre. He quoted from a letter from the Hon. John Douglas, 
 in which an absolute denial was given to a rumour, that had emanated from 
 Cooktown, to the effect that ingratitude had been shown. 
 
 Sir E. Strickland, as the President of the Society, made a few remarks with 
 respect to the advantages of geographical knowledge ; and he suggested the 
 advisability of efforts being made to obtain copies of apparatus, &c., similar to 
 that which was exhibited in London in connection with the study of this branch 
 of knowledge. He felt satisfied that the Government would not ignore an appeal 
 if it were made to them for assistance in this respect. (Hear, hear.) 
 
 A vote of thanks was unanimously accorded to His Excellency for having 
 presided, and the proceedings were terminated about 6 p.m.
 
 APPENDIX III. 
 
 GERMAN NEW GUINEA EXPLORATIONS.
 
 APPENDIX III. 
 
 GERMAN NEW GUINEA EXPLORATIONS. 
 
 (Brisbane Daily Observer, September 17th, 1886.) 
 
 ^R. Knappo, German Consul at Samoa, was a passenger by the 
 ''Alexandra/^ s., for Sydney yesterday, after making an oflicial 
 tour in the German territories of the Pacific. In the course of a 
 conversation with a representative of this journal on board the 
 steamer, he stated that, acting under instructions from the 
 Imperial Government, ho left Samoa in June last, and was transported by the 
 flagship of the German squadron, the " Bismarck," to New Britain and the Mar- 
 shall Group, where he consulted the leading German traders with reference to 
 important matters relating to the government of those islands, and the better 
 organisation of the group. After spending a few weeks among the various 
 islands Dr. Knappe arrived at Finschhafcn, and at once accompanied a scientific 
 expedition in tho " Ottilio " np the Empress Augusta River, which empties into 
 the sea some hundreds of miles from Finschhavcn. lie describes it as a magni- 
 ficent stream, varying in width from one to two miles. There is no bar, and the 
 '' Ottilie" steamed up it a distance of 310 miles. The party then took the 8t«im 
 launch and navigated the river for another ninety miles. At tlie furthest point 
 reached they were fifty-three miles from the Dutch boundary on the we>t, and 
 sixty-three miles from tho British boundary on tho south. Tlie river for tho 
 whole of the way up varied in depth from ten to fifteen fathoms. For the first 
 250 miles tho country was fertile, with portions liable to inundation; not far 
 back on the right hand side, however, a range of nvmntains towered alol't. The 
 river had previously been explored by Captain Dahhnann in the Samoa, for a 
 
 I) D
 
 192 GERMAN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 distance of fifty miles, and after his point of exploration was passed, landings 
 were made daily to observe the quality of the country, and to propitiate the 
 natives who assembled in large numbers on the banks. Dr. Knappe's account of 
 these savages is very interesting. He states that they were quite overcome on 
 beholding the " Ottilio,'^and pointing reverentially to the sun (whom Dr. Knappe 
 beheves they worship) they foil at the feet of the explorers, as much as to say — 
 " Children of the Sun we worship you." They are a powerful and apparently a 
 contented race. Although every few miles the language was different, the mode 
 of life and habits were similar. The largest village or plantation met with was 
 about 240 miles up the river. It was situated some distance from the river, and 
 contained from fifteen to twenty large houses at some distance from each other, 
 and built at a height of about twelve feet from the ground on piles. Each house is 
 very solidly built, large beams being used in the framework, which is covered by 
 a thick thatch of grass. A peculiar custom obtains with reference to the separa- 
 tion of the sexes, the males and females occupying different houses. Each house 
 or ward has accommodation for about fifty. The male children, up to the age of 
 about thirteen years, inhabit the female wards. Owing to the brief stay and 
 ignorance of the language. Dr. Knappe says he was unable to ascertain what are 
 their customs with regard to marriage. As in other portions of New Guinea, 
 the natives go in for extensive plantations, their special products being yams and 
 other tubers, of which Dr. Knappe possessed no knowledge. Sago palms, 
 bananas, and cocoa-nut trees also were growing wild in profusion. The favourite 
 kind of ornamentation indulged in in the men's huts were rows of grinning skulls, 
 in which the human and the crocodile were awarded the place of honour, the 
 skulls of the dogs and pigs that surrounded them evidently not being held in 
 such high reverence. The natives are not by any means vegetarians, deriving 
 their supply of flesh from the hordes of dogs and pigs which surround their vil- 
 lages. They have also a kind of fowl, but Dr. Knappe did not observe at any of 
 the feasts at which he was present that poultry was provided. Their bows, 
 arrows, and spears are not nearly so well-made or so formidable as those of the 
 coastal natives, and their canoes are nothing but trees hollowed out, first by chop- 
 ping with their inferior stone axes, and then by fire. Dr. Knappe said that in 
 one he counted twenty-two occupants. No out-riggers or rowlocks are used, the 
 canoe being propelled by paddles, which are used by the rowers standing up. 
 The natives, both men and women, are inveterate smokers of cigarettes, which 
 they manufacture from the tobacco leaf, which is indigenous. The tobacco leaf 
 is rolled tightly up, and enclosed in the green leaf of a pepper tree. Dr. Knappe 
 smoked one himself and found that though a decided novelty, it was not all un-
 
 GERMAN NEW GUINEA. 193 
 
 pleasant. Another custom is betel-nut chewing. They chew the nut, then place 
 the end of a small stick in their mouth. The moistened part is then dipped in lime 
 and again transferred to the mouth. Dr. Knappe was urgently invited to partici- 
 pate, but not having a cast-iron tongue, declined the request. The costume of the 
 natives is rather primitive. The men go about entirely nude and the skirt worn 
 by the women is remarkably scanty. Iron, which is generally so highly prized by 
 savages, found no favour in the eyes of the natives there, but turkey red had not lost 
 its power to charm, and the native that secured an empty bottle was an object of the 
 greatest envy to his fellows. The prize was at once filled with lime and sur- 
 rounded by betel-nut-chewers who in ecstasy dipped their lime-sticks in it and were 
 happy. During the trip many geological specimens were obtained, including 
 quartz, but as Dr. Knappe confessed that he was entirely ignorant of such matters 
 ho was unable to state whether the country was likely to bo auriferous. After a 
 very pleasant and instructive trip of three weeks the party again reached the sea, 
 and on their way to Finschhaven inspected the stations at Feldthavcn and Hats- 
 feldt Harbour. Both were found to be flourishing, especially the latter, which 
 had experienced entire immunity from sickness for the past six months. Dr. 
 Knappe spent a few weeks at Finschhaven as the guest of the Governor, Baron 
 Schleintz, and expresses his belief that there is a great future before CJcrman 
 New Guinea. The German New Guinea Company have been so far most fortu- 
 nate. They have had no trouble to speak of with the natives, over 100 of whom, 
 men and women, they have now working for them, the solo payment in return 
 being an occasional donation of turkey red, scrap iron, or beads. The Jfalays, 
 too, are working well, but, as is almost invariably the case, have to be ruled with 
 a firm hand. It is intended by the Company to establish stations all along the 
 magnificent stream opened up by Dr. Knappe and his companions, and in order 
 to do so speedily au officer of the Company, Mr. Graboffski, accompauiod Dr. 
 Knappe to Cooktown, where he is now waiting the arrival of a British-India 
 steamer. He will then proceed to Batavia, and engage 1 50 more Malays for this 
 Company, who will employ them on the new plantations. The outlay of the 
 Company up to the present has been considerable, without taking into considera- 
 tion the loss of the Papua, but Dr. Knappe is of opinion that the privileges they 
 have obtained will 1)0 of enormous value in the future. ]\y their charter they 
 have possession of all land not actually claimed by others, and as the natives do 
 not care a rush for the land not comprised in their plantations the company prac- 
 tically own all the German territory. Ho also believes that the foundations of a 
 prosperous colony have already been laid. Fortunately for Dr. Knappe, the 
 "Ottilio^' arrived at Cooktown just in time to catch the ** Alexandra," which
 
 194 
 
 GERMAN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 steamor will roach Sydney next Monday. Dr. Knappe the next day transships 
 into the Lubock, which steamer will land him at Samoa in time to form one of 
 the Commission recently appointed by the British and German Governments 
 to inquire into matters tioncerning the islands at present under his especial 
 charge. 
 
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