LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA PRESENTED BY NICHOLAS DUMAS papers of tjje ^ttjpologual institute of %mttm. CLASSICAL SERIES. I. REPORT ON THE INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881, By JOSEPH THACHER CLARKE. WBiiti) an &ppnrtk, CONTAINING INSCRIPTIONS FROM ASSOS AND LESBOS, AND PAPERS By W. C. LAWTON and J. S. DILLER. Printed at the Cost of the Harvard Art Club and the Harvard Philological Society. BOSTON: PUBLISHED BY A. WILLIAMS AND CO. LONDON: N. TRUBNER AND CO. 1882. Reprinted, without change, with Index and List of Errata. 1886. Uni i:ss : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. lEncttttoc Committee, 1881-82. CHARLES ELIOT NORTON, President. MARTIN BRIMMER, Vice-President. FRANCIS PARKMAN. W. W. GOODWIN. H. W. HAYNES. ALEXANDER AGASSIZ. WILLIAM R. WARE. HENRY L. HIGGINSON, Treasurer. E. H. GREENLEAF, Secretary. CONTENTS. Page Preliminary Report of the Investigations at Assos dur- ing the Year 1881. By Joseph Thacher Clarke ... i APPENDIX. I. Inscriptions found at Assos and Mitylene .... 133 II. Notes on Bunarbashi and other Sites in the Troad, by William C. Lawton ; including Notes on the Map of the Acropolis of the Bali Dagh, by C. Howard Walker 143 III. The Geology of Assos. By J. S. Diller 166 IV. Notes upon the Geology of the Troad. By J. S. Diller 180 LIST OF PLATES. Pack i. Plan of Assos i 2. Topographical Sketch of Acropolis after Excava- tions 29 3. Topographical Sketch of Plateau with Stoa, Theatre, &c 35 4. Topographical Sketch of Gymnasium 40 4<*. Map of Aeolic Mysia and Lesbos 48 5. Section of Acropolis 52 6. View of Acropolis 52 7. Plan of Floor of Temple 80 8. Plan of Temple, restored 85 9. Drum of Column, and Fragment of Corona .... 88 10. Outline of Echinus and Neck of Column 89 11. Section of Temple Order 91 12. Head of Lion from Gutter 94 13. Roof of Temple, restored 95 14. Front of Temple, restored 100 15. Relief from Epistyle of Hercules and Centaurs . . 107 16. Relief from Epistyle of Two Sphinxes 111 17. Relief from Epistyle of Lion and Boar 113 18. Relief from Epistyle of Hind-quarters of Lion . . 114 19. Relief from Epistyle of Fragment of a Sphinx . . 115 20. Relief from Epistyle of Fragment of a Centaur with Fore Legs of a Horse 116 21. Metope Relief, Man pursuing a Woman 117 22. Metope Relief, Two Warriors 117 23. View of Mosque and Tower 122 24. Door of Mosque. 123 viii LIST OF PLATES. 2., 3- 3> 3- 33 34- 35 3" ?3 Page Mosaic Pavement from Gymnasium 124 Wall OF POLYGONAL MASONRY 125 Portal in Western Wall 125 Tower at Northwest Gateway ... 125 Section of Cemetery, restored 126 m Cemetery, d 127 1 rviNG Tomb 126 1 rviNG Tomb, Plan and Section 127 Sarcophagus 127 Sarcophagus, restored 127 Bridge on the Satnioeis 128 Turkish Port and Mole 131 Coin of Assos 131 I. Bronze Tarlet, with Inscription on Accession of Caligula 133 II. Acropolis of the Bali Dagh from the North . . . 149 III. Acropolis of the Bali Dagh from the South . . . 151 IV. Mai of Ac ropolis of the Bali Dagh 153 Y. Trojan Plain from the Bali Dagh 156 VI. Trojan Plain from Hissarlik 162 VII. Geological Map of Assos 166 27> " 5- 27, " is- 33. « 31. 34, " s- 5 1 - " 19. ERRATA. Page 2, line 16. For " perhaps so called from one of the emirs serving under the conqueror Orkhan," read so called from Machrama, last of its Greek defenders. The interesting episode of the fall of Assos into the hands of the Turks will be treated at length in the Second Report. Page 20, line 2. For " Agichristo," read Hagichristos. Dele " Dolmas, or." For " workmen," read Greek workmen. For " southwestern," read southeastern. For " northeast," read northwest. For " trachyte," read volcanic rocks, andesite and liparite. (Throughout the volume, for "trachyte" read andesite. The accurate determi- nation of the material, in this case only possible after microscopical examination, was made by the geologist of the Expedition during the summer of 1882.) Page 53, line 26. For " noble," read famous. " S9> " 5- For " west," read east. " 59, " 27. For " were of the same stock," read were perhaps of the same stock. Page 60, line 18. For " maternal grandfather of Hector," read father-in-law of Priam. Page 67, line 29. For " west," read east. " 71, " 2. For "probably with Assos, although this name does not occur," read with Assos, which appears in the list under an altered name. Page 71, line 3. For " between 440 and 436 B. c," read the third quarter of the fifth century B.C. Page 77, line 23. Dele " Semitic." " 84. Dele lines 24 to 27. " 90, line 24. Dele sentences commencing " The epistyle," and conclud- ing, page 91, line 13, " contact." (The peculiar arrangement of the inner epistyle beams, which became evident through the investigations of the second vear, will be fully explained in the Second Report. The beams were double, — not treble, as shown in Plate II.) Page 92, line 10. Dele " into which the thin slabs of the metopes, whether sculptured or plain, could be slid from above." Page 96, line 2. Dele " The upper end of the former was provided with a projecting band to hook unto the timbering of the roof." Page 96, line 32. For " about 0.6," read 0.66. " 97, " 10. For " average 0.280," read each average 0.280. " 97, " 18. Add note: These dimensions are subject to a micrometrical correction, resulting from the slight inaccuracy of a steeltape employed in measuring. X ERR A TA. Page 103, line S. For "of the temple," read the temple. " 103, " 9. For " of the temple," read and the temple. " 123, " 6. Fur '• The greater part of the edifice is Byzantine," read The edifice . Turkish architecture, — probably to the century. (The age of the mosque did not become apparent until it xamined more closely than was possible during the first year.) 140, last line but one. For " nonAIflT," read nonAIOT. The three inscriptions in pp. 133-140 (Nos. I., II., and III.) will be found in the first volume of Papers of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens (Inscriptions of Assos, Nos. XXVI., VII., and XXVIII.), with corrections in the and in the translation. Nos. II. and III. are now in the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. REPORT ON THE INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. CE PLAN ASSOS PRELIMINARY REPORT OF THE INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS DURING THE YEAR 1881. THE following account of the first year's work of the expedition to Assos sent out by the Archaeological Institute of America must be prefaced by a reminder that the time has not come for a thorough and conclusive publi- cation of the results achieved. It is evident that descriptions of monuments but recently discovered, and in part still hidden beneath the earth, will be extended, and possibly corrected, as the studies upon the site advance. Indeed, many points are touched upon in this Report only to indicate the direc- tion and scope of the work. After the termination of the investigations, it is hoped to present the full results in a monumental volume upon Assos and the Southern Troad. The present Preliminary Report is divided into two parts. The first — more or less introductory — contains a notice of the visits to the site by travellers and archaeologists during the past century, and an account of the present expedition. The second treats of the geographical conditions of the region and their influence upon the development of Assos during antiquity, of the history and topography of the city, the ar- chitectural monuments investigated, and the sculptures and inscriptions discovered. 2 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. A description of the temple and its important reliefs is given in detail. The account of other buildings is less full, a consideration of many points already determined being re- served for the report upon the fortification walls, theatre, stoas, gymnasium, etc., which will be prepared after the close of the work of the second year. An appendix is furnished by the geologist of the expedi- tion, Mr. Joseph Silas Diller, containing the results of his special studies at Assos and excursions in the Troad. The last sparks of Greek civilization, the various phases of which had for twenty-four centuries been exhibited at Assos, were extinguished by the Latin conquest of Constantinople. The establishment of the Genoese principality of Lesbos was soon followed by the inroads of the Turks. Assos was de- serted and forgotten. Its ruins are to-day a nameless append- age to the squalid village of Behram, 1 perhaps so called from one of the emirs serving" under the conqueror Orkhan. Once the most important city of the Troad, it is now represented by a hundred miserable dwellings. Its commercial prosperity declined with the failure of the agricultural energy which 1 The orthography of personal and geographical names in the present Report requires a word of explanation. Turkish names — as derived from an alphabet wholly distinct from the English — are rewritten according to their sound, the letters having in every case the value peculiar to them in English. It is impos- sible, however, by any combination of letters, to convey the sound of the Z — the sharply aspirated //, like the German ch in ach — which occurs in the name im ; and it is to be observed that the final ee so frequently employed (Pademlee, Sazlee, Narlee, etc.) approaches in character the Erench u, or Ger- man ue, a vowel not known in English. The Greek spelling of Greek names has been adopted whenever the word has by long use, become fully Anglicized; that is to say, changed in pronuncia- tion- i alphabet provides two letters for the Greek K&inra, the c been employed as the more familiar (Corinth, Acropolis, etc.), except in 1 is not thereby conveyed : namely, before e, i, and y, tituted. As no English word ends in *', the final at is transformed 'ling to the universal usage of our tongue. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 3 once had produced upon the plains of the Satnioeis the finest wheat known to the Persian court. The land became a stronghold of Mahometan fanaticism. The austere and bigoted character of the Turks of the Troad was remarked by early travellers, 1 and it is still uncomfortably evident. It is true that no open attempt is now made in times of peace to persecute unbelievers ; but in their presence there is a lowering constraint on the part of the men, while women hasten from the sight of an infidel, or, crouching behind some shelter, shield the terrified children with their skirts. Strange as it may appear to those acquainted with the mixed population of the more southern coasts of Asia Minor, it has been only within late years that Greek settlers have been able to gain a foothold in the Southern Troad. At the important port of Baba-calessi 2 there is but one Greek merchant ; at Behram only one magazine is Greek ; and in the interior the number of Christian inhabitants is very small. That the time is rapidly approaching when the land will be held in great part by Greeks, no one can doubt who has observed the progress of that people, and the melting away of the Turkish population. The Gulf of Adramyttion is dominated by Ivalee, 3 opposite the northern coast, and distant from it but two hours' sail. The modern history of this city well illustrates the position of the two races, and foreshadows the development of the Troad in the near future. The inhabitants of the Turkish town of Ayasmat 4 totally destroyed Ivalee during the War of Inde- pendence, confiscating the olive orchards and the vineyards 1 Michaud et Poujoulat, work quoted below, p. 9. 2 The promontory of Lecton is known to the Turks as Baba ; the town at its extremity as Baba-calessi, i.e., Baba-castle, from the considerable fortifications and garrison there maintained. 3 On the site of the ancient Heracleia. 4 On the site of the ancient Attea, or Attalia. 4 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. hi its neighborhood. To-day, however, nearly forty thou- sand Greeks inhabit Ivalee, and not one Turkish family; while for miles around the city all the land is again in the possession of Greeks. Ayasmat, on the other hand, has dwindled to a squalid village of twenty or thirty huts, with a 'Moslem graveyard more than a mile long. The sparsely populated northern coast of the Gulf of Adra- myttion lies off the line of the marine traffic, which the for- mation of land and sea has led into fixed courses in this part of the Mediterranean. The steamers which constantly ply between Constantinople and Smyrna seek escape in the Chan- nel of Mytilene from the high winds which disturb the open vEgean, and pursue their sheltered course along the island ; and travellers commonly pass through the strait without giving much attention to the steep and sterile volcanic plateau, which rises toward the sea as a wall, enclosing the isolated valleys where trickling streams maintain a luxuriant verdure through- out the long heats of summer. The smallest coasting vessels are seldom forced to make the northern coast of the gulf at any point east of Baba. Some twenty years ago the Aus- trian steamers stopped at Baba-calessi ; but this route was abandoned, from the lack alike of freight and of passengers. The annual crop of valonia (the cups of the acorn of Quer- cus (Vgilops) and the occasional surplus of wheat grown in the alluvial plain of theTouzla arc exported by native merchants. Though Edremit (Adramyttion), at the head of the gulf, has remained a populous town under the Turks, the com- mercial prosperity which it enjoyed under the rule of the kings of Pcr^amon has been wholly lost. During the cen- turies in which great thoroughfares existed from Pergamon to the Hellespont by way of Adramyttion, the distance of eight kilometres between the city and the sea and the lack of an adequate harbor were not obstacles that prevented the city INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 5 from having a thriving trade ; 1 the port continued to be a con- siderable emporium as late as the time of the Latin princes, but under Turkish rule it had become almost entirely deserted by the middle of the last century. The products of the fertile land in the vicinity of Edremit now pass into the hands of the ever busy Greeks, and are carried to Ivalee by the ten thou- sand camels of this Vilayet, being thus still further removed from the northern coast of the gulf. So little have these waters been frequented by well-manned European vessels, that even in our days the nooks of the Gulf of Adramyttion have been among the last resorts of Greek pirates, — sharing notoriety, in this respect, with the shores of inhospitable Amorgo. In short, the isolation of the Southern Troad, by reason of the configuration of the land and the peculiarities of its inhab- itants, was so complete, that at the beginning of this century, when the present Renaissance of Greek thought and art was far advanced in Attica, and when even the neighboring plain of Troy was familiar to us from the reports of many travel- lers, all our knowledge of Assos was restricted to the im- perfect description given by Count Choiseul-Gouffier in his "Picturesque Voyage." 2 The Count had made his first jour- ney to the Levant in 1776 ; his appointment, eight years later, as Minister Plenipotentiary of France to the Porte, gave him an exceptional opportunity for the completion and extension of studies which, though in many respects of nai've inaccuracy, were of great value in calling the attention of European scholars to sites previously unexplored. 1 Compare Acts of the Apostles, xxvii. 2. 2 Voyage Pittoresque de la Grlce, tome second. Paris, 1809 ; pp. 86-88. In 1819 Choiseul's map received some corrections and additions founded upon the observations of M. Dubois, who had been sent to the Troad in the preced- ing year by M. de Choiseul-Gouffier. The first volume of the Voyage Pittoresque was published in 1782. 6 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. M. de Choiseul gives a strange and confused plan of the city, 1 and a wonderful restored view of the site. The letter- press is better than the illustrations, and affords a compilation of the remarks of ancient authors bearing upon the subject, so thorough as to suggest the work of a literary assistant. The erroneous assumption of three temples at the foot of the Acropolis is not surprising, being evidently based on the pecu- liar formation of the stoa plateau, with its terraces at either end. It is worthy of remark that this first account with all its shortcomings yet shows its author's appreciation of the striking situation of the city, which has not failed to kindle the admiration of every subsequent traveller. " Pcudc villes" says the author, "jouissent d'une situation anssi heureuse, aiissi magnifique que cclle d'Assos ; V imagination des plus habiles artistes ne sauroit alter au-dela des tableaux, si riches, si ivipo- saus, quelle devoit jadis presenter de toutes parts." But though the detailed plan and restoration of the city, given in the " Picturesque Voyage," were fanciful and incor- rect, the accompanying maps of the Troad were long the chief source of information for that important part of Asia Minor, being even reproduced with but few alterations as late as the publication of Mauduit's book upon the Troad. 2 The influence of the "Voyage Pittoresque" is evident, from the fact that nearly half of the travellers who have subse- quently visited and described Assos have been French, that the only extended investigations upon the site were made at the expense of the French Government, and that the cele- brated reliefs of the temple were finally obtained by the Louvre, and transported to France on a national vessel. Eight years before the appearance of Choiseul-Gouffier's 1 And yet the author congratulates himself that, "Le plan qu'offre la planche IX. a «'tc levc avec exactitude." 2 DicoitverUt dans la Troade. Paris. 1844. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. J volume Assos was mentioned by M. Olivier, 1 in a book which gives much information concerning the condition of the Troad during the last decade of the eighteenth century ; but the author did not land at Behram, contenting himself with ex- amining the coast from his vessel. That eminent authority upon the topography of ancient Greece, Colonel Leake, visited Assos in the year 1800. His short notice of the site was first published in 18 17 in the continuation of Walpole's " Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey," 2 and several years later appeared in his own " Journal." 3 This writer, whose extended travels and great erudition give his opinion decisive weight, considered the re- mains of Assos to present the most perfect idea of a Greek city that is anywhere to be obtained. Dr. Hunt saw the ruins one year after Leake ; his report was the first to be printed, 4 though not till sixteen years after his visit. Hunt's accurate and detailed account of the theatre is particularly valuable, and his description of the temple, the porticos with their inscriptions, the antique edifice used as a Turkish bath, etc., cause wonder that the ruins above ground should have remained in so perfect a state of preservation so late as the beginning of the present century, and regret that the excavations advised by him should not then have been undertaken. Well might they have been 1 Voyage dans P Empire Ottoman, FEgypte et la Perse. Fait par ordre da Gouv- ernement pendant les six premieres annees de la Republique, par G. A. Olivier. Paris. An 9. Vol. i., chap. xxv. 2 Travels in Various Countries of the East; being a continuation of Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey. Edited by Robert Walpole. London. 1820. 3 Journal of a Tour in Asia Minor, with comparative remarks on the ancient and modern geography of that country. By William Martin Leake. F. R. S., etc. London. 1S24. 4 Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey, edited from manuscript journals, by Robert Walpole. London. 1817. Number VI. Account of Dr. Hunt and Prof. Carlyle. 8 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. "repaid by the discovery of many valuable works of art," had they been prosecuted before the lamentable destruction of later years. Hunt was succeeded by Von Richter, whose interesting sketch, valuable especially in its description of the walls, was published seven years after, in a book which is the best monu- ment to one who found an untimely grave while in the midst of his Oriental investigations. Von Richter visited Assos in June, 1816. It was upon this journey that he caught the fever which left him scarcely time to relate his observations in his journal, published by Ebers. 1 Philip Barker Webb's studies upon the Trojan Plain were extended to Assos, and were first printed in Italian, in the " Biblioteca Acerbi," in the volumes for June and July, 1821. 2 It was through him that attention was first called to the inter- esting geological character of this volcanic region. At a later date the vicinity was explored and described from a scientific point of view by the eminent Russian geog- rapher Tchihatcheff, 3 whose routes upon the map, given to illustrate his itinerary, show him to have visited Assos in 1847 and 1849. ^ ^ s greatly to be regretted that the fourth part of Tchihatcheff's great work, which was to be devoted to the statistics, politics, and archaeology of the country, should never have appeared. His most interesting results, if not wholly lost, have thus been too greatly delayed to be of full service to science. 1 Otto Friedrich von Richter. Wallfahrtcn im Morgenlande. Aus seinen bikhern und Brief en dargcstcllt von Johann Philip Gustav Ebers. Berlin. 1822. 2 Better known in a later French edition: Topographic de la Troade. Paris. 1844. Webb complains, in the preface to the republication, that the studies had ted due attention in their original form. They had meanwhile been translated into German ; but this work docs not seem to have appeared in a large edition, as it is rare and little known, notwithstanding its importance. 8 Asie Mineure, description physique, statistique ct archeologiqne de cette contric. Par Pierre de Tchihatcheff. Paris. 1853— 1869. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 9 By far the best description given by any traveller is that of Prokesch von Osten, whose most admirable book of " Oriental Notes," 1 justly led to the author's preferment to high official position. The letter relating to the ruins of Assos is dated at Mytilene, July, 1826; in it the author speaks of the remains as the best preserved of all between the Propontis and the Ionian coast. Apart from the interest of the general account, the technically correct descriptions and accurate measure- ments of monuments, then still in a comparatively perfect state, are of a value to the present investigations which may be estimated from the fact that the given dimensions of the theatre and fortification walls, for instance, are not only more trustworthy, but more complete, than those in the pretentious work of the later French expedition under Texier. After a lapse of thirty years, when the writings of Choiseul and Olivier had become antiquated, the attention of the French was again called to the ruins of Assos by the Oriental cor- respondence of Michaud and Poujoulat. 2 These companions were separated at Baba, — Poujoulat going on horseback to Behram, while their coasting vessel, upon which Michaud re- mained, ill of a fever, was driven from the insecure port at the cape by a storm of wind. Poujoulat's description of his jour- ney to the ruins of Assos is graphic ; but his understanding of the antique was inadequate and led him into absurd mis- takes, a number of which will be mentioned later on. The admirable survey of the northern coast of the Gulf of Adramyttion, made by Commander Copeland of the English Navy, is dated in 1834. 3 Upon it the position of Behram is 1 Denkwurdigkeiien und Erinturungen aus dem Orient, vom Ritter Prokesch von Osten. Aus Julius Schneller , s Nachlass herausgegeben von Dr. Ernst Munch. 3 Bande. Stuttgart. 1836-37. 2 Correspondance d' 'Orient. Par M. Michaud, de l'Academie francaise, et M. Poujoulat. Vol. iii. Paris. 1834. Lettre lxix. 8 Charts of the English Admiralty, No. 1665. Mytilene Island. IO ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. accurately designated, though the independent character of the volcanic peak is overlooked. It was in June, 1835, five years after the visit of Poujoulat, that Charles Texier, commissioned by Guizot, who was then the French Minister of Public Instruction, to study the antiqui- ties of Asia Minor, examined the ruins. The results of his expedition were most luxuriously published, at government expense, in three immense volumes, in the second of which are the plates and letter-press concerning Assos, the illustra- tions being restricted to the fortifications and the temple of the Acropolis. 1 Unfortunately, as more recent scholars have frequently had occasion to remark, 2 the facile architect and director of the expedition had le ginie de V inexactitude. Texier's detailed topographical plan of the city is hardly creditable as a sketch from memory. The given measurements, though expressed in the smallest fractions of the metric system, are often wholly fictitious, the restorations largely imaginary. Even were the present expedition to do no more than accurately to determine the points treated with such unworthy carelessness by Texier, it would render a definite and valuable service to archaeological science. By the successive labors of Poujoulat, Huyot, and Texier, the reliefs of the epistyle and metopes of the temple, which 1 Description de PAsie Mineure, faitc par ordre du Gouvernement fra?icais de 1833 a 1837 et publiie par le Ministere de r Instruction publique. Par Charles Texier. Deuxieme partie, deuxieme volume Paris. 1849. The eminent archi- tect and archaeoli 1st, Huyot, who had visited Assos about 1817, and made draw- ings of the remains, is said to have directed the attention of Texier to Assos, and to the reliefs which lay exposed upon the sides of the Acropolis. Huyot is said by Clarac to have attempted to carry off the sculptured blocks. rring to the account of Old Symrna, given by Texier, Dr. Ilirschfcld says: " Lcidcr muss dicselbe beinahe als wcrthlos bczcichnet werden ; denn die elegant gczcichnetcn Formen entsprechen der Wirklichkcit in keiner Weise." ■ pare the paper by I >r. < urtius in the Abhandluit«cn der berliner Akademie, 1872.) The remarks of M. i'crrot upon the plates concerning Pessinunt are even INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. II lay exposed upon the summit of the Acropolis and its south- eastern slope, appear to have become regarded as due to France ; and the well-known archaeologist, Raoul-Rochette, having succeeded in obtaining a formal grant of the blocks as a gift of the Sultan Mahmoud II. to the Louvre, they were removed in 1838. Through these remarkable archaic works of sculpture the attention of every scholar of Greek antiquity and art has been attracted to Assos. Three publi- cations 1 have made them familiar to those unable to study the originals, or the casts exhibited in European and American capitals. Shortly before the reliefs were loaded upon the brig " La Surprise," of the French navy, they were seen upon the site by Sir Charles Fellows, in whose interesting " Journal " 2 there more to the point, as illustrating Texier's manner of dealing with a subject in every way comparable to Assos : " Le plan donne par M. Texier . . . est une mauvaise plaisanterie. 11 donne des noms a tout, il indique la disposition inte- rieure de tous les edifices jusque dans leurs moindres details; il ne vous fait pas grace d'une colonne, quand, de son propre aveu, il n'a passe la que quelques heures, et s'est borne a noter, du haut de l'acropole, la situation relative des dif- ferents amas de decombres qu'il apercevait dans differentes directions." (Lettre de M. Perrot a M. Renier. Bullettino dell' Instituto di Corrispondenza archeo- logica. 1 861. VIII., Agosto.) A full review of Texier's shortcomings in regard to Assos would here lead to too great length ; a number of points will, however, be mentioned in the consideration of the temple. 1 In lithographed plates, with two pages of inadequate text, by M. F. de Witte, in Annali deW Instituto di Corrispondenza archeologica. Volume tredi- cesimo. Roma, 1842 ; and in Monumenti inediti pubblicati dell' Instituto, etc. III. Roma e Parigi, 1S39-43. In the second volume of Texier's Description de I' Asie Mineure, referred to above, and in Clarac's Musee de Sculpture, antique et moderne ; on Description historique et graphique du Louvre et de toutes ses parties, etc. Tome IL, seconde partie. Paris, 1S41. Texier's engravings are the best representations of the sculptures, though they do not include all the reliefs. Clarac's text gives a detailed account of the removal of the blocks, and of the sawing to which they were subjected to prepare them for the walls of the Assos Room in the Louvre. A full review of these publications is reserved for an essay on the temple sculptures, which is to appear among the papers of the Institute. 2 A Journal written during an excursion in Asia Minor. By Charles Fellows. London. 1839. 12 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. are drawings of the most prominent blocks, as well as a good general description of the ruins. He was followed by another English traveller, signing him- self "G. R. L.," who contributed a short but well-written notice of Assos to the " Gentleman's Magazine" in 1842. 1 The geographical studies of Dr. Henry Kiepert and Prof. A. Schoenborn in the Southern Troad were made at about this date ; they will be referred to below in the consideration of the maps of the land. In 1842 Professor Phrearitis, of the University of Athens, published a slight account of the ruins in the Nea IlavSeopa, 2 interesting only as a proof that the destruction of later years had not then begun, — the seats of the theatre still being in perfect preservation. The next account was printed by Mr. Pullan, in 1865, in a work which, so far as it refers to Assos, is a partial translation of Texier's text, illustrated by lithographic reproductions of the French engravings. 3 Mr. Abbot, of the Foreign Office, visited Assos subse- quently to Mr. Pullan ; his admirable report has been recently printed. 4 At the time of Mr. Abbot's visit, in November, 1864, a work of systematic destruction was going on. The Turkish Government were employing a considerable detachment of soldiers to displace and carry from the ruins the largest and 1 This paper was considered worthy of translation and republication by Ger- man geographical journals. 2 In the number of that Athenian periodical for February i, 1862. The account was reviewed, and in part reprinted in the Mitthcilungen arts Justus Perthes' geographischer Anstalt, iiber wichtige new Erforschungen auf dem Gcsammtgcbiete der Geographic. Von Dr. A. Petermann. Gotha. 1S62. 8 The Principal Ruins of Asia Minor, illustrated and described. By R. Popple- wcll Pullan. London. 1S65. 4 JIandbook for Travellers for Turkey in Asia. Fourth edition. London. 1878. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 13 best hewn stones. The material thus obtained was shipped to Constantinople, and used, it is said, in the construction of the new docks of the Arsenal at Top-haneh. 1 The auditorium of the theatre, which less than twenty years ago remained almost uninjured, was by this vandalism transformed to an enormous quarry, the seats being piled one above another in indescribable confusion. The chief entrance gate of the city, one of the finest known monuments of Greek military archi- tecture, — previously in such good preservation that it in no wise seemed a ruin, — was in part carried away, in part wan- tonly overthrown. Blocks spoken of as part of a Doric temple, which had long passed for that of Augustus, were at the time of Mr. Abbot's visit ranged side by side on the path leading to the sea, ready for shipment. It appears from the present aspect of the site that this destruction was carried on for some months. The work was undertaken as though all the remains of the city were to be carried away ; a road was built down the most regular decliv- ity of the hill for the transport of the stones upon rough sledges, so that the making of a way for the reliefs taken from the Acropolis by the present expedition was greatly facilitated. The overthrow and removal of these stones must have been the most severe blow ever experienced by the ruins of Assos. The lime-burners of the Middle Ages had destroyed every vestige of marble to be found upon the surface ; that the re- maining monuments of volcanic stone should so very recently find a similar fate is indeed deplorable. The carved archi- 1 The present writer has twice examined the arsenal docks, and indeed the entire water-front of Top-haneh, on one occasion in company with the geologist, Mr. Diller ; but no blocks of the characteristic trachytes of Assos could be dis- covered. Most of the stone used in their construction is a grayish limestone, evidently taken from antique buildings, though not from any ruins of the Troad. If the material obtained from Assos found its way to Top-haneh at all, it must have been used for foundations beneath the water. Iz j. ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. tectural fragments, which still thickly cover the city enclosure, only indicate the great relative wealth of the site. The misfortune of Assos should stimulate archaeological investigation in lands suffering under the Turkish Govern- ment. The insufficiency of previous investigations, like those of Texier, is keenly felt. Our knowledge of the remains at Paestum, for instance, or even at Athens, is already such that their total destruction could not wholly deprive us of their lessons. But in Assos, as in countless sites of Asia Minor, the case is otherwise ; when their monuments have been so demolished that restoration is not possible, the loss to science is irreparable. During the last season of Dr. Schliemann's excavations at Hissarlik, that energetic explorer, accompanied by Dr. Vir- chow, 1 visited Assos while on a journey through the Troad ; and during the past year Dr. Schliemann again visited the site, to the pleasure of the agents of the Institute who were then engaged upon the preliminary survey. 2 It was in June, 1879, that the present writer, with his companion, Mr. Francis Henry Bacon, visited the site for the purpose of investigating the remains of the temple of the Acropolis, — a monument of the greatest importance in the history of the Doric style. The observations made during a limited stay were presented, somewhat in the form of a review, in the First Annual Report of the Archaeological Institute of America. 3 The paper concluded with a recommendation of the site as a promising field for more extended investigations. There was indeed no reason to anticipate such brilliant discov- eries of treasure as rewarded the excavators in Cyprus, at friige zur I.andeshtnde der Troas, von Rudolph Virchow. Aus den Ab- hanai.. Xkademie der Wissencliaften zu Berlin. 1S79. - Reise der Troas im Mai 1SS1. Von Dr. lleinrich Schliemann. Mit einer Kartc. I.' . . j 3 Notes on Greek Shores By Joseph Thacher Clarke. Pp. 145-163. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 15 Hissarlik, or at Pergamon ; but though the prospect of such novel, and in great measure accidental, results was lacking from the outset, the important additions to our knowledge of antiquity made during the past year, and presented in the following Preliminary Report, cannot fail to be considered as eminently satisfactory. The determination of the Institute to undertake the exploration of Assos was announced in the Second Annual Report, 1 in May, 1881 ; but the preparations had begun long previously. Owing to the inclemency of the winter and early spring in the Troad, it was planned not to undertake active operations before the beginning of April ; and from the same considera- tion it was evident that excavations would have to be sus- pended by about the first of November. Nausiclides 2 re- marked of the country of the Hellespont that " it had no spring and no friends," and although the reason he gave, — that no truffles were there found, and no fish of the kind called 7A.au/ctW0?, — may be deemed insufficient for such a depreciation, it is true that the Troad is much more inclem- ent during the winter months than the neighboring islands of the ^Egean, or the thickly settled tracts of the continent which border the Caicos or the Hermos. The different char- acter of the winter in the Dardanelles and in Smyrna is surprising. The Troad is midway between the lands of soft Ionian skies, where secure from frost the pink blos- soms of the almond appear during the first days of Feb- ruary, and those high and sterile plateaus of northern Asia Minor, where the winters last eight months, communica- 1 Second Annual Report of the Archceolo^ical Institute of America. Cam- bridge. 1 88 1. 2 In Athenccus, ii. 60. 1 6 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. tion is blocked for weeks by snow-drifts, and even parts of the great salt Pontos are covered with ice. The little river Touzla, 1 which flows by Behram, always freezes in December and January ; and even the swift waters of the Mendereh 2 are covered with ice so thick as to bear a horse and rider. In the ancient Greek bridge, which forms one of the most inter- esting discoveries of the past year, the piers are formed of courses of stones, ingeniously notched and bonded so as to resist the shock and lateral pressure of the ice after the break- ing up of the frozen sheet. The heavy rains of November frequently filled up the trial pits and trenches in a few hours, and there was snow upon the bleak range of Ida after the survey had begun in April. Although Assos is only two degrees of latitude farther north than Olympia, the plan of the German explorers in the Altis had to be reversed, — the campaign being carried on throughout the summer, and all work suspended during the winter months. The organization of the party occupied the last months of 1880. The names and qualifications of the gentlemen chosen from the many applicants were published in the before men- tioned Report of the Institute. Those actually present upon the site from time to time during the year, beside the writer, were Francis Henry Bacon, Howard Walker, and Maxwell Wrigley, architects ; William Cranston Lawton and Charles Wesley Bradley, graduates of Harvard College ; J. H. Haynes, gradu- ate of Williams College; and J. S. Diller, geologist. 3 The pioneers left America during January, to spend February in preparatory study in the British Museum, and in examining and redrawing the sculptures from Assos in the Louvre. 1 The ancient Satnioeis. * The ancient Scamander. '•'■ Mr. Edward Robinson remained at Mytilene ; Mr. Eliot Norton was at , as a volunteer assistant, from March to June. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. iy A library of some four hundred volumes of reference, con- tributed by various members of the party, cot-beds, bedding, etc., and a supply of canned food were sent from America. An excellent transit-instrument had been placed at the ser- vice of the expedition by Professor N. S. Shaler. There still remained to be procured in London a level, telemetre rods, chains, etc., with other surveying instruments and drawing materials. The acquisition of a photographic camera had not at this time been determined upon. When, in the month of June, it became possible for the expedition to employ and purchase apparatus and chemicals for taking photographs, an outfit was ordered from England through an expert. Unfortunately the instruments did not reach Mytilene until the end of Novem- ber, after the work at Assos had ceased for the year. The difficulty experienced in introducing the goods of the expedition into Turkish territory will illustrate one of the many obstacles attending every undertaking subject to that Government, — obstacles which, greater even than their noto- riety, have been responsible for many vexatious delays of the work. It is a peculiarity of the Turkish laws relating to custom- duties that a re-examination and taxation is enforced when goods are transferred from port to port of the empire itself, however near these may be one to the other. Hence the great number of camels in a mountainous country, destitute of roads, which is by nature unfavorable to the extensive em- ployment of beasts of burden. If the sacks of valonia stored at Behram were to be carried to Baba-calessi by water, that they might be exported by steamer, they would be subjected to an additional revision and duty ; while upon the land there of course exist no custom frontiers. Instead of the easy voyage of two hours, the merchants in order to avoid the 1 8 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. duty would be obliged to carry their bulky merchandise over a rugged plateau, by a path which, though winding so as to make the distance half as far again as the coast line, rises, near Arablar, to a height of nearly five hundred metres. It is natural that in the face of such difficulties every insignificant landing-place conveys the products of its vicinity directly to Smyrna, — the slow and difficult voyages of the small coasting vessels thus employed unfavorably affecting the development of commercial resources on an adequate scale. The failure of the Austrian steamers to maintain a communication with Baba-calessi, before referred to, was more owing to this hindrance of trade than to any absolute unproductiveness of the Southern Troad. On arriving at Smyrna, the goods of the expedition, as con- sisting solely of scientific instruments and personal property not intended for sale, were permitted to enter the country free of duty, after the opening of every package and the payment of heavy incidental fees. As all means of farther transpor- tation directly to Behram were lacking, it was necessary to re- ship the property to Mytilene. After a constant attendance upon the officials at Smyrna for nearly a week, a tcskereh, or grant of free entrance to Mytilene and Behram, was procured. On arrival at the island an objection was made to some ir- regularity of form in the document, which was in fact a pre- text to enforce, by the delay of two weeks necessary for return mails, the payment of the eight per cent ad valorem levied as entrance duty upon all merchandise. This was at a time — the 9th of April — when great despatch was requisite in order to bring the surveying instruments into the field, and the present consular agent of the United States at Myti- lene, Mr. Phottion, gave a personal bond that the answer expected from the chief of the custom district at Smyrna would bear out our assurance that the goods had been de- INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 19 clared wholly free of duty. After a second examination we were permitted to remove the cases from bond to the tempo- rary quarters of the Expedition, where they were unpacked. The surveying instruments were soon after carried in a small sail-boat to Assos, and the actual work upon the site began upon the 19th of April. When the agents of the Institute were believed to be thus out of reach, the custom officials of Mytilene made immediate and unceremonious demand for the sum which could be levied upon the cases that passed through their hands, by estimating their value at an excessive rate. In the absence of all expedi- tious communication with Behram, there seemed to be no pos- sibility of evasion on the part of the bondsman. But, unfor- tunately for this well-conceived plan, it so happened that the writer, unknown to the officials, had returned immediately from the site to Smyrna on other business, and on receiving telegraphic news from Mr. Phottion, was enabled to protest against payment, pending the obtainment, by a further ex- pense of time and money, of a direct order and reprimand from the Smyrna headquarters. The friendly assistance of Consul B. O. Duncan was efficient in this as in other junc- tures. During a preliminary visit to Assos no available dwelling for the party could be found, either in the squalid village above or in the four buildings at the foot of the cliff. It was hence not advisable to transport at once the whole outfit of the expedition from Mytilene to Behram. To keep up a com- munication between the two places until it might prove pos- sible to settle definitely at Assos, a row-boat was bought in Smyrna, towed to Mytilene, and there rigged with sails. It was not until the middle of May that two large rooms could be secured in the chief valonia magazine at the port. In the meantime the first comers slept and stored the instruments in 20 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. a room in the granary of a kindly disposed Greek merchant, K. Agichristo, to whom the members of the Expedition owe many subsequent favors. Much time was at first lost by the many voyages to and from Mytilene, distant about forty-eight kilometres from Assos. The passage became more and more difficult as the season advanced, owing to the prevalent and increasing northerly winds, — the Etesians of the ancients, 1 — which blow during the whole summer. On the 27th of July all connection with the island was severed. The survey was by this time well advanced. A base line of five hundred metres, running from east to west, had been ac- curately measured in the river valley upon a sandy reach ; and another, from north to south, was laid out on the street of tombs, — the only tract of the high land intervening between the stream and the sea where so long a level could be found. From the stations thus fixed the triangulation ad- vanced, the calculations being constantly compared with direct measurements. The rugged character of the ground rendered the choice of stations difficult, and greatly increased their number, — it frequently being necessary independently to determine points distant but a few metres in plan. The only interference offered by the inhabitants, to whom of course such a survey was incomprehensible and suspicious, was the systematic destruction of station pegs, which were almost always pulled up during the night. Recourse was had to engraved marks upon stones, so heavy as not to be easily displaced. The complex triangulation being thrice repeated, the map may be relied upon as accurate. The transit employed was, if anything, too delicate and 1 The great importance of these winds upon the development of the lands bordering the northeastern Mediterranean can hardly be appreciated by those who have never lived in the Levant. A pleasant characterization of the Etesians is given by Curtius, in his Grkchische Gcschichtc, bd. i. cap. i. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 2 I cumbrous for field work. It was otherwise with the light levelling instrument, which suffered severely from once being overthrown by the wind. The exact determination of the various heights, and the final decision of the question con- cerning the curvatures of the temple stylobate, to be referred to below, have thus to be reserved for the second year's work. An even greater part of the preliminary investigation than the survey consisted in a thorough examination of the ruins remaining above ground, — the purpose and relation of the hewn stones gradually becoming evident by continued study and comparison of the confused heaps of rubbish. With the gradual completion of this work the impatience of the explorers increased for the long-promised earadeh} or official grant, which was to allow the commencement of digging. Permission to undertake investigations at Assos had been definitely granted to the Archaeological Institute of America by the Porte, through the Turkish Minister of Public Instruction, as early as the autumn of 1880. A further assur- ance that the document setting forth the right of excavation was at the immediate disposition of the agents had been required and received before the departure of any members of the Expedition from America. But notwithstanding repeated requests made during the winter by the American Lega- tion in Constantinople, and even a vigorously worded note from the Secretary of State, the earadeh was not forthcoming until far into the summer, — months after the explorers were on the site. And before digging could be begun under its sanction, the document had to be presented in due form to 1 An earadeh is a document given by one of the ministers of the Turkish Government, as distinguished from a jirmhn, which is a giant dependent ulti- mately upon the Sultan. A request to undertake excavations, like all other matters concerning the antiquities of the Ottoman Empire, is referred to the Ministry of Public Instruction. 2 2 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. the Pasha of the Dardanelles, as governor of the district in which Behram is situated, and to the Kymacahm of Iradjik, as the nearest local authority. Before these formalities had been fulfilled, even the survey was liable to interruption. Indeed, any appearance of the explorers upon the site before being in possession of the earadeh was discouraged by a number of residents long familiar with the usages of the Turkish Levant. But ex- treme care was taken to avoid all display and intrusion upon the villagers ; and by the time the official permission to exca- vate arrived at Assos, the greater part of the preliminary investigations had been accomplished. The excuses advanced to account for this delay in granting a document promised to the official representatives of the United States by the Turkish Government, day by day for six months, are so characteristic as to deserve notice. Behram, it was said, was situated in the Vilayet of Broussa, and the governor of that province was cited as being strenuously opposed to the undertaking, by foreigners, of any archaeological researches within his jurisdiction. He was reported to have thrown all manner of difficulties in the way, — averring that the roads were impassable, and that commissioners were unable to pro- ceed from Broussa to Behram to ascertain whether public or private interests were liable to be interfered with by the pro- posed diggings in the vicinity, etc. While plans were being matured to overcome this opposition, a remarkable telegram from the Sublime Porte was received at the Conac of Midhat Pasha, inquiring if the village of Behram were not under his jurisdiction, and in the Vilayet of Smyrna. It thereupon appeared that the site was not, and never had been, com- prised in the province of Broussa, but, like Chanac, 1 the 1 The city of the Dardanelles; situated somewhat to the southwest of the ancient Abydos (Point Nagara). INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 23 chief town of the district, was directly dependent upon Con- stantinople. 1 The Governor of Broussa, whose opposition had been so de- termined, and against whose will it had seemed so inadvisable to the Porte to grant an earadeh, had nothing whatever to do with the matter, and in all probability had never even heard of it. After the exposition of these facts further evasions were not attempted. The permission to excavate was at last granted. Another hindrance to the advance of the investigations, severely felt during the summer months, was the shipwreck of the vessel which had on board the household outfit of the party. Having left Boston at the end of January, the barque " Fame " discharged her cargo upon St. Thomas, to which island she had been driven from her direct course to Smyrna. The goods of the Expedition not spoiled by salt water were reshipped, but did not reach Smyrna until the end of June. The presence of an agent of the Institute was required there to attend to the legal determination of the general average necessary before the goods could be unloaded, to conduct similar troublesome negotiations with the customs officials to those described above, and to forward the cases, obtained after great delay, to Behram. In returning from this unpleasant detention the writer was enabled, by the hospitality of his friend Dr. Carl Humann, to study in Pergamon the various methods of excavation which had been proved by long experience to be best adapted to the peculiarities of the country. The Expedition is under great obligations to Dr. Humann for his effective furtherance of the work by sending to Assos, at a later date, a small body of picked men who had been in his service since the first 1 The division of the Vilayets of Asia Minor is evident from any good map; as, for instance, from Kiepert's well-known General Chart of the Turkish Empire. 24 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. brilliant success of the excavations at Pergamon, by his liberal transfer of tools adapted to the usage of the laborers, which those brought from London were found not to be, and by the loan of a powerful winch. By the first of August all preparations for digging had been made, and all requisite formalities complied with ; on the sixth, the work at last began. It was at first difficult to obtain la- borers on account of the scanty population of the land and the inhospitable character of the little village. The natives, moreover, are indolent. A well-known Ottoman proverb af- firms, that " it is better to serve without pay than to stroll without purpose ; " but most of the Turks in the Southern Troad are evidently of the opinion that absolute idleness is preferable to either. Those of the hundred and fifty male in- habitants of Behram who are willing to work at all are busied in the grain-fields bordering the Touzla, or follow their rest- less goats over the neighboring mountains in search of verdure. The first laborers to arrive upon the site were Greek quarry- men from Stypsis, a village upon the slopes of Mount Elias, 1 near the northern coast of Mytilene. Later on came Greeks from Ivalee, from the villages on the north of the Adramyt- tian Gulf, and from various parts of the island of Mytilene. Those who had served at Pergamon were natives of Lemnos. Greeks and Turks were employed side by side, working in perfect harmony, and even with some spirit of emulation. The Fast of Ramazan, which occurred during August, de- prived us of the services of nearly all the Moslems. As during that month no believer may touch food or drink from sunrise to sunset, the Turks are wholly unfitted for severe or continued exertion. 2 When the night is occupied in eating, drinking, 1 The ancient Mount Lcpethymnos. 3 The stria observance of the Ramazan is particularly severe upon the lower INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 25 and mutual congratulations that the long hours of privation are over, the day can be spent only in sleep and inaction. On the conclusion of this distressing period, however, the Turks of neighboring villages came in numbers to be engaged on the excavations, and were particularly valuable as forming a link between ourselves and the inhabitants of the vicinity, — to explore which was among the purposes of the Expedition. As a general rule the Greek proved a more diligent and intelligent laborer than the Turk. There were, however, note- worthy exceptions in favor of the Moslems, especially in the case of some discharged soldiers, who had been subjected to the privations and discipline of late campaigns. The men were paid at the uniform rate of one-half a medjid (about forty-one cents) a day. This sum is a trifle larger than the average given to navvies upon the Smyrna railroads ; but it was found that the best workmen, when employed at graded wages, were in the end the cheapest, and the comparatively small staff needed at Assos was made efficient and trust- worthy by weeding out all but capable and diligent men. The number of laborers employed never exceeded thirty- five, averaging about twenty-six during the last half of the work. The hours of labor were from half-past five in the morning until the same time in the afternoon, including two hours' recess, — a half-hour for breakfast, and one and a half hours at noon. A short siesta at the time of the sun's great- est blaze seems to be a necessity of the climate. The duty of the superintendent, beside the oversight of the trenches, com- classes when it occurs during the summer, the long parching days provoking intolerable thirst, and the least exertion in the fields causing exhaustion. The lunar month devoted to the Fast naturally occurs in every season of the year dur- ing the course of thirty years. Its effect upon land and people is pitiable ; it is astonishing that human beings can subject themselves to such abstinence. The precepts of the Fast are carried out in the austere Troad with scrupulous fidel- ity. As the Turkish word for smoking unfortunately signifies " to drink smoke," the believers are deprived even of that incomparable solace. 26 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. prised the economy of the laboring forces. The proportion of pickaxes, shovels, and wheelbarrows in use varied from day to day according to the nature of the ground, and much de- pended upon a wise adjustment. Though the exertion of the pickers in the stony earth was greater than that of the other laborers, their task was for some reason considered to be more honorable ; and the older and better men were not easily induced to handle a shovel, much less to trundle a barrow. An esprit-de-corps, a spirit to which the modern Greeks greatly owe their advance, was soon developed, resulting in a system which otherwise it would have been difficult to introduce, and impossible to maintain. Under its influence the inde- pendence and marked individuality of the laborers proved to be decidedly favorable to the work. Quarrels and drunken- ness were unknown. It is the custom in the Levant that large bodies of laborers should be abundantly supplied with drinking-water by the con- tractor. As all the trickling springs of the village cease to flow by July, the supply had to be brought from the half- stagnant river below in large earthen jars slung upon either side of an ass, much like the amphorce nasiternce of the ancients. The food of the men was that which has supported the work- ing classes of the land from the earliest ages of Hellenic civili- zation. Bread was prepared by the Greek baker of the port in the same manner, and the loaves were of the same shape as in the fifth century, b. c. White goat's-cheese and onions, or leeks, were eaten with it, — aX^tra, otyov Se KpopLva ical rvpov, 1 — while the rich black olives, — puaal ical hpyrreTreh? — so preferable to the green fruit exported to northern lands, took the place of meat. 1 Plutarch : On the Glory of the Athenians in War and Wisdom, § vi. 2 Athenaeus, ii. 56, and iv. 137. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 27 The food supplied by Behram and its vicinity is scanty and monotonous. Beside fowls the only meat obtainable is the stringy flesh of goats, and occasionally mutton ; no vegetables whatever are grown, with the exception of onions, tasteless gourds, and the so-called dolmas, or mcljinas {Solanum melon- gena L.), in appearance similar to our egg-plants, but immeas- urably inferior. Fine figs are grown in the few valleys where the burning sun does not parch the scanty soil, but these and pomegranates are the only fruit. Goat's-milk is seldom to be had fresh, the most rational manner of eating it in this climate being in a curdled condition (yaourt), or made into an acrid, chalk-like cheese. Of fish, cuttle-fish, and octopods there is, however, an abundance ; and the bread baked by the natives is excellent. We could not accustom ourselves to the snails and sea-urchins eagerly sought by the workmen during holi- days. Wild honey was occasionally brought from the neigh- borhood, and reminded us of the appearance of the bee upon the coins of the ancient city. 1 The Greek islanders appear to have retained more Hellenic characteristics than the inhabitants of the Morea, and their modes of life, in primitive simplicity, present in many ways a commentary upon the usages of the ancients. The most radi- cal change has of course resulted from their Christianization. During August and September, four holidays of Greek saints interrupted the work. A further disturbance was caused by the heavy rains of October, three week-days being lost on that account during the first half of the month. The heat of the midsummer sun, reflected by the sea upon the southern slopes of the arid volcanic cliffs, was intense. As there are no marshes, there is no malaria at the rocky port or at the village of Behram ; but so great were the heat and fatigue that only one of the eight Americans who were at the 1 Sestini : Lcttere numismatiche . . . continuazione, part. viii. p. 33. 28 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. site from time to time during the summer wholly escaped from fever. The laborers gradually deserted the work with the advanc- ing season, until on the first of November hardly one-third of the entire number remained. Till the end of September the men had slept in the open air, upon the flat housetops. The interiors of the coffee-houses and khans were, it is true, unin- viting dormitories, but the continued exposure in a climate more rigorous than that of Mytilene caused much suffering from colds and rheumatism. The first digging in the soil of Assos for the purpose of archaeological investigation was on the summit of the Acrop- olis. The prospecting trench struck immediately upon the steps of the archaic temple, which once crowned the great natural altar. Neither walls nor columns remained in posi- tion to mark the site, and the earth which hid the founda- tions had accumulated to a depth averaging one and a half metres. The first adequate description of Assos published, that of Dr. Hunt, 1 remarks that of the "temple which stood on the citadel, parts of the shafts remain on their original site, so that a person conversant with ancient architecture might easily trace the plan and different details." Texier, on the other hand, describes the summit of the Acropolis as covered at the time of his visit with " grandcs constructions militaires moderncsT It thus appears that the final levelling of the ruins took place during the first third of this century (i 801-1835), and the accumulation of debris must, in the main, date from that time. The comparatively recent removal of the lower parts of the columns from their original positions is evident from the fact that the channelled blocks, roughly built into the Turkish walls marked FF upon the plan, Plate 2, 2 on the 1 Page 12G of the work referred to above. 2 The topographical sketch, Plate 2, exhibits the condition of the Acropolis INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 29 south and west of the citadel, are almost exclusively lower drums. It is possible that the uprising of the Greeks in their strug- gle for independence may have led to the construction of the Turkish fortification, the recent date of which is proved by its irregularity and the entire lack of the mortar which was lavishly used in mediaeval masonry. The lime-kilns had ex- hausted such marble as was to be found upon the site before the present century. Behram, it is true, could never have been directly exposed to a concerted attack of the insurgents ; but the proximity of the island of Mytilene, with its predom- inant Greek population, may reasonably have induced the Turks to erect defensive works on the strongest natural for- tress of the Southern Troad. The upper part of the columns must have been overthrown and rolled down the steep sides of the Acropolis at a time when the stumps of the shafts were still standing. Several of the smaller drums were dug out from the reservoir before the stoa ; others, hollowed at one end, have long served the upon the termination of the year's digging. The walls in black are mediaeval, and remain to a height of at least three metres above the ground. A A Cemented wall, in which the fragments of the sphinxes from the eastern front of the temple were found. B Position of the bowman relief when discovered. C Position of the relief of the three centaurs fitting upon the bowman. D Position of the unbroken metope. E Position of the sphinx from the western front, found upon the surface, and apparently overlooked by the French in 1838. FF Turkish walls, built without mortar, and containing many blocks of the temple. G G Towers and magazines of late rubble masonry. H H Remains of early fortification walls of carefully jointed polygonal ma- sonry. yy Capitals placed upon edge as a rampart. KK Pits and trenches dug by the Expedition. LM O P Chutes used in the removal of earth. N Position in which the relief of the lion and boar, and the hind quarters of the lion were found. -O ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. inhabitants of the village as mortars for crushing coffee. The cella wall, of which not a block is recognizable, was probably- removed at a far earlier period by builders covetous of its evenly squared stones. The skeleton of columns and entab- lature may then have stood in much the same condition as those of the temples of Segesta and Aegina. The soil which buried the temple foundations contained no ancient coins, and had evidently collected during the recent occupation of the summit by Turkish constructions. It was traversed by a complex of roughly built walls, piled up of small stones without mortar, — in every way similar to those of the neighboring village huts. No blocks of the temple super- structure remained upon the stylobate. The entire exposure of the foundations was at once under- taken. A steep slope upon the east of the Acropolis was ex- amined; and as no antique remains of importance were found to exist upon the native rock, the earth carried off in wheel- barrows was thrown over that brink, L, Plate 2. As the work advanced, a second chute, M, was prepared upon the western side. None of the sculptured epistyle blocks, which we eagerly desired to find, were met with during this digging; but there was much interest in tracing the plan of the building as it emerged from the debris which so long had covered it. To preserve from injury the upper surfaces of the stylobate and pavements, a layer of earth a few centimetres thick was left upon them until the very last, — thus preventing all scratching and chipping by the iron wheels of the barrows. When all was swept and the blocks carefully washed, the position of eighteen of the ptcroma and two of the pronaos columns became evident by the slight weathering of the stylo- bate surface which had occurred while the blocks were still in place. The almost microscopical traces left by some of INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 3 1 the shafts only displayed the outline of the channellings by the sharp side-light of the rising or setting sun in a cloud-' less sky. The effect of the rain upon the stucco priming, undoubtedly once employed throughout the structure, was evident from the grayish discolorations of those joints and clefts into which the lime was precipitated. The clouds of sharp volcanic dust driven upon the building by the north winds have not been without effect ; the surfaces once protected, like the stand- points of the columns, appearing slightly in relief when inves- tigated by an artificial flame on still, dark nights. By the diffused light of day these infinitesimal projections were not visible. The coarse material of which the temple was built was, however, not favorable to the preservation of delicate indications of this nature. The site of the cella walls was recognized by the delicate incised lines traced by the Greek master-builder upon the stones of the stylobate, to mark the position of the first up- right blocks. Upon either end of the building pits w T ere sunk to the native rock to study the lower courses of the stereo- bate, and in places where the pavement of the pteroma was broken away its bedding was similarly examined. A detailed account of the results thus obtained is reserved for later pages of this Report. Some of the marks made upon the temple plan after the destruction of the cella walls and roof are of a curious inter- est. Upon the pavement of the northern pteroma there is the trace of an exploded shell, which is hard to account for, since the last signal struggle known to have affected Assos — namely, the invasion of the Southern Troad by Orkhan and his emirs — was before the introduction of cannon. Upon the foundation stone at the southwestern corner of the cella wall the peculiar squares necessary for the old game of morris 32 ARCH^OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. were found deeply engraved. Near the temple at a consider- able depth a number of hand-stones for grinding wheat were unearthed and carried off with delight by one of the old men of Behram, who put them at once into the primitive service for which they had been prepared centuries before. As before said, no coins older than the last century were met with in uncovering the stylobate ; but in trenches dug in other parts of the Acropolis and on the levels of the lower temple-steps various Byzantine moneys indicated the relation of the different strata, and illustrated the gradual advance of the destruction. The only coin of precious metal, an electron of the reign of Michael VIII. (Palaeologos) — 1 261-1282 a. d. — was found within the citadel enclosure, north of the temple. That coins or ornaments of precious metal would be se- creted by the laborers, notwithstanding the constant super- vision, was naturally to be assumed in view of the notorious tendencies of modern Greeks. To obviate so far as possible the chance of such a loss to the investigations, the intrinsic value of every piece of gold or silver was offered as a premium to the finder, in addition to his regular wages. By this arrange- ment little was to be gained by theft from the trenches. The reliefs from the temple, the discovery of which, to- gether with the stylobate, form the most important result of the year's work, were chiefly found in the lower courses of the fortification masonry which enclosed the inner citadel. The blocks of the sculptured epistyle and the metopes re- maining above ground were, as already mentioned, removed to Paris in 1838. From the accounts given by Hunt, Rich- ter, Prokcsch von Osten, and Fellows, it appears that these reliefs, with few exceptions, lay scattered upon the south- western slope of the Acropolis, where they had evidently been thrown on the destruction of the late ramparts in which Ihey previously had been embodied. The descriptions of INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 33 these travellers were fully borne out by the interesting testi- mony of one of the old men of Behram, who remembers when a youth to have seen the sculptured blocks lying upon the surface, and to have watched the operations of the sailors in carrying them to the sea-shore. The search of the French was thorough. Only one frag- ment was found by the present Expedition upon the declivity ; namely, the second sphinx from the western front, which lay face downward at the spot marked E, Plate 2. This block, though overlooked by Raoul Rochette, may have been seen by Texier, who in his restoration correctly drew the shaft upon which the fore-paws of the recumbent animals are sup- ported, — a feature not evident from any of the reliefs in the Louvre. As will be seen in the detailed consideration of the sculptures, this sphinx accurately fits upon its mate now in Paris, and could not have been purposely left behind. The two blocks forming the far more beautiful sphinxes of the eastern front were found in the wall, A A, at the north- west of the Acropolis. This mass of masonry, from its relation in plan and bonding to a Turkish semicircular tower abutting upon it, as well as from the employment of mortar in its more careful construction, is proved to be of comparatively early date. The lime which covered and preserved the features of the archaic heads had become so hard that the stones could only be loosened from their beds by iron wedges and sledge- hammers. The broken metope and the small fragment on which were the front legs of a centaur were found in the vicinity. The two important blocks of the bowman and centaurs, the most valuable discovery of the year, were met with late in the season, in the foundations of the rampart at the southwestern angle of the citadel. They were not embedded in mortar, and were lying near each other at a depth of 1.5 metres below the 3 34 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. present surface of the earth. The lion and boar relief and the hind-quarters of a lion were similarly situated near the western steps of the temple, N. The complete metope did not form part of the enclos- ing wall, but lay buried in the accumulated soil at the north- east, D. Prokesch von Osten mentions, among the sculptured blocks remaining upon the surface at the time of his visit in the year 1826, a metope with a figure of "Amor, seated and hold- ing a bow," — more probably the archer of Heracles. This relief was not taken to Paris, but though the most careful search was made it could not be found. 1 The peculiarity of the lateral blocks of the triple epistyle, — the step upon the back, — made them readily recognizable while only partly exposed ; and it was with almost feverish anticipa- tion that stones of this shape were turned over. The pro- portion of plain blocks was great, both among the lintels, — of which a considerable length had been taken from the site, while all the unsculptured inner epistyle remained, — and among the metopes, of which only those upon the fronts appear to have been decorated. The delight of discovery was less frequent than the check of disappointment. A terra-cotta antefix was found in a crevice at the south- eastern corner, deeply buried, as it must have been one of the first parts of the temple to be overthrown, — if, indeed, the archaic roof-tiling to which it appertained was not re- placed by a restoration during the flourishing ages of the city. The lion's head from the corner gutter lay in the deep soil at the north of the temple. During a great part of August the work of digging upon the Acropolis was impeded and made unpleasant by the high 1 This block is particularly described in the Wiener Jahrbuch, 1832, ii. Au~ zeiger, p. yj. u> • c INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 35 north winds, — the Etesians already mentioned. The wind was so heavy at times as to render it difficult to stand upright upon the walls of the exposed summit, where any disturb- ance of the dry soil by pick or shovel raised blinding clouds of sand and lime-dust into the air. The men made wary by experience at Pergamon had provided themselves with spectacles of gauze ; the less fortunate raw hands wept pain- fully, and aggravated the ill by rubbing their eyes with gritty sleeves. The distress was sufficient to reduce the number of laborers ; and it was a relief when, by the end of August, ma- terial had been obtained for preliminary study, and the work could be temporarily transferred to the sheltered southern slopes of the lower town. Little earth had accumulated upon the commanding terrace before the stoa. The bowlders and debris washed down from the heights above had formed a slide across the colonnade, almost wholly filling up the great basin in front of it, but thus caught as by a moat, left the open place almost bare. The general arrangement of the long colonnade remained so plainly evident that even an unscientific traveller could comprehend from the ruins the appearance of the original structure. Although the broad flight of steps which must have served as an ascent from the theatre, the parapet, and in places parts of the terrace itself, are missing, yet the general disposition of the public buildings in the vicinity could be determined with no great difficulty. Compare Plate 3. 1 1 The topographical sketch, Plate 3, exhibits the condition of the stoa, theatre, and adjacent buildings upon the termination of the preliminary excavations made during the year. The walls in black are antique, and, with exception of those of the theatre scene and of the building at T, remain nearly to their original height. The trial pits and trenches dug by the Expedition are designated by asterisks. A A Narrow subterranean passage leading to the stoa plateau. B Steps in position. C Fountain niche, before which is the vaulted cistern of accurately jointed polygonal masonry. 36 ARCHJEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The first trial pits revealed the arrangement of the en- trance to the stoa, showing the parapet between the columns upon the extreme east and the end wall. Trenches were dug through the mass of earth and stones which filled the hall, and the lower drums of the inner range of columns were found to be still in position. Several shafts were sunk to the bottom of the great reservoir, exposing its accurately jointed pavement. Its basin was in great part filled with the blocks of the colonnade and of the buildings which once stood upon a higher level. Even drums from the summit of the Acropolis were found here, as has been before mentioned. Near its western end were the outlet and conduit, which led the water from it to a lower basin upon the level of the ter- race Q Q, Plate 3. The stone channel was in admirable pres- ervation, even the water-box and lead-pipe of a late Byzantine restoration remaining undisturbed. In connection with this work a preliminary examination was made of the rectangular foundations at the west, and of D Stone lintels forming the ceiling of the subterranean passage. Broken, but in position. E E Mediaeval walls, thoroughly excavated. Among these ruins were found the bronze inscribed tablet and marble inscriptions. F F Columns in position. G G Vaults, of Roman or Byzantine period. //// Modern Turkish enclosing walls. yy Doorway jambs in position. K K Subterranean vaulted chambers beneath either end of the theatre auditory. L L Balustrade of orchestra, and lower seats in position. M Remains of wall and gateway. N Ruins of a building restored by Texicr as a " Nymphacum." O Turkish enclosures used as goat-pens. PP Pavi ment of the place before the stoa in position. QQ Subterranean water conduit, leading to the lower terrace. J< R Greek retaining walls of heavy masonry. S ' Ireek foundation wall, with water-pipes. 7' I oiindations of a rectangular building, possibly a temple. U Mediaeval remains on Greek foundations. V Ruins of a Byzantine church. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 37 the considerable remains of a building at the east, of the great public place. Trenches determined the position of the walls, and the general plan of these structures ; but the limited excavations could do no more than reconnoitre the field. No carved fragments or inscriptions were met with upon the terrace itself ; but on digging at a lower level upon the east, among the mediaeval walls E E, the debris was found to con- tain important antique remains. A number of inscriptions came to light which must originally have stood as upright slabs on the pedestals of trachyte still remaining upon the parapet above. Thus encouraged, we had all the earth lodged in the angle formed by this lower terrace removed, and the subterranean passage leading to the place before the portico freed from debris. The ceiling beams of this passage had been broken, and, falling in, had filled the space with their fragments ; the bearings, however, remained in position upon the lateral walls, illustrating the peculiar notched system of their jointing. The steps at the eastern end apparently owe their present awkward arrangement to a Christian reconstruction. Close to the lower entrance, at C, Plate 3, there was found to have been an important fountain, probably supplied from the great reservoir before the stoa, and standing in immediate connection with a vaulted cistern. The marble slab and trough which once filled the niche had disappeared, only small fragments of the latter being recognizable among the rubbish in the vicinity ; but the general arrangement of the water- works could be easily traced. The cistern, as will be seen, is remarkable for the accuracy of its polygonal masonry as well as for certain peculiarities of plan. Some six or seven metres below the surface, the earth with which it had partly been filled was found to contain some fragments of inscriptions and various water-jugs of Byzantine 38 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. form. Upon the southern side of the passage late walls, E E, had been built against its enclosure. Among their ruins were found all the inscriptions published in the present Report, and a considerable number of fragments which it is hoped to com- plete by excavations upon a still lower level. Nearly all the marbles had been shattered by their fall from the parapet before the portico. The inscribed bronze tablet appears to have owed its excep- tional preservation to long service as a fire-back, of which it bears traces ; the intrinsic value of so large and thick a sheet of metal would otherwise have led to its destruction. The badly-built mediaeval walls had been thickly plastered, and in many places a debased painted decoration was distinct upon them. The various enclosures were without doubt at some time occupied as houses and shops, the last inhabitants of the southern town naturally retreating to the sheltered slopes near the great public place. As indicated by Mr. Abbot's account of Assos, written at the time of the systematic removal of hewn stones from the site, that work of destruction nowhere produced more lament- able results than in the theatre. In place of the almost per- fect monument seen by previous travellers, there now remains little more than a hollow in the steep hill-side. The upper seats have been torn away, the lower are covered with rubbish. The orchestra is filled with earth ; of the stage only the lower walls exist. Prospecting trenches uncovered the seats for several tiers above the balustrade which separated the spectators from the orchestra. The foundations of the scene were also followed out. Here the debris had accumulated to a depth of more than two metres, the space having been used during the Mid- dle Ages for dwellings, as was evident from the remains of household fires, the bones and tusks of wild boars, shards of INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 39 barbarous kitchen utensils, etc. Of the pavement of the orchestra no traces whatever could be found. The only- decorative sculpture met with was a Hermes upon the west- ern termination of the balustrade. In connection with these preliminary studies at the stoa and theatre, some attention was devoted to the great struc- tural masses in the vicinity. A number of pits were dug upon the lower terrace in front of the western half of the stoa plateau. The walls of a Christian church, V, had made it evident before the beginning of the excavations that the later Byzantine occupation had greatly altered the level of this terrace and the plans of the buildings upon it. A lit- tle digging showed that a thorough removal of the consid- erable accumulation of earth would be necessary before any- adequate understanding of the complex constructions could be obtained. At a depth of from two to four metres the pits revealed antique pavements, water-pipes, foundation walls, and even the bases of columns in position, — the fur- ther investigation of which, on account of the extent of the work, we found ourselves obliged to reserve for another year. The case was similar with the interesting remains of a portal, M, belonging to a building at the extreme east of the upper plateau. The massive lintel blocks, fallen from their position, were not to be moved without the help of the winch, which did not arrive until after the completion of the work at this point. The ruins of an enclosure of considerable extent, within the city walls and at the southwest of the Acropolis, attracted the attention of several of the earlier travellers, — notably of Prokesch von Osten, to whom we owe an admirable descrip- tion of the state of these remains at the time of his visit. A fragmentary inscription upon the epistyle blocks of a sur- 4° ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. rounding colonnade, published by Richter, 1 has led to the supposition that the edifice was dedicated to Augustus, and even that it was a temple to that deified monarch. Though its real character is still far from certain, the building will be referred to as a gymnasium in the present Report, some of its features indicating this designation. The outline of a polygonal apse was plainly visible above the ground, by the side of the footpath which leads from the village to the sea. ( Compare Plate 4. ) Within this the accumulated soil proved to be a little more than one metre in depth, while outside the pavement of the street was not reached until seven metres below the surface. This made it clear that the building bordered, toward the south, upon the parapet of a terrace, and lent weight to the supposition that the portico observable upon the principal thoroughfare of the city stood in connection with its inner court, notwith- standing the great difference in level. Both apse and portico were freed from earth. Within the enclosure trial pits determined the position of the gate of the gymnasium at the northwest, and of one column of the more important portal at the northeast. A marble stylobate and the carefully jointed slabs of a broad pavement were found within the colonnade, which extended at least upon the north- ern half of the rectangle. One shaft remained in position, and additional epistyle blocks, bearing the carefully cut letters of the inscription before referred to, were found at no great depth. Near the marble steps were various remains belonging to a monument of small dimensions and lavish Diadochian or- namentation, — the marble gutters carved with lions' heads, 1 More generally accessible in Boeckh, Corpus Inscriptionum Grezcarum, ,569. The inscription will be referred to at greater length in the descrip- tion of the buildincr itself. *0*> covered wifh Jetr& "'^'/) Plate 4. Gymnasium (?). INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 41 broken cornice blocks and mouldings being so incomplete as to afford no guide to the original purpose or appearance of the structure. This state of destruction had been brought about by the systematic burning of the stone, the blackened walls of a mediaeval lime-kiln standing directly beside the stylobate. The floor of the late building, of which the apse formed the termination, proved to be a marble mosaic. This was fol- lowed by a trench to a length of more than thirty metres. The border of the pattern was nearly intact, but the centre appeared in great part broken away. Within the limits of this building, which seems to have been a sacred and possibly originally a forensic basilica, were found various fragments of Byzantine decoration sculptured in relief, bearing the cross, palm branches, etc. To these four sites within the city walls, to which more or less attention was paid during the year, — namely, the Acropolis, stoa, theatre, and gymnasium, — is to be added the street of tombs outside the fortifications. By similar pre- liminary excavations the general disposition of the terraces was here determined, and a number of sarcophagi, exedras, and vaulted tombs were examined. The stone pavements were covered with fine earth, washed down from the heights of the Acropolis, varying in depth from half a metre to three metres. In many places the slabs were still in position. All the sarcophagi had been opened and despoiled in former times. The heavy lids of some had been lifted off, and lay upon the ground next to the enormous coffers ; others had been broken into from the side. An amusing instance of the ignorant rapacity of the riflers is presented by a small solid sarcophagus, which once served as the decoration of some mausoleum. The attempts made to pry off the lid are evident from the rough chiselling of 42 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. the fictitious joints, and the disappointment of the treasure- seeker is shown by the spiteful battering of the sides, which were not to be broken into like those of the hollow chests. Choiseul-Gouffier relates that some years before his visit the heavy rains, washing away the accumulated earth, had ex- posed a sarcophagus which had never been plundered. All the inhabitants of the village assembled, and the coffer was broken open in the presence of an official ; it was found, however, to contain no treasure, and the human remains, with the household utensils buried with them, were flung away. Many sarcophagi entirely buried beneath the soil were found during the excavations of the past year, but none which had not been opened. Trenches were dug around a number to expose the carved ornamentation of their sides, and two exedras were wholly freed from earth. Two vaulted tombs of interesting construction were also excavated, both having been stripped of their facades and choked with debris. Two imperfect inscriptions upon large marble slabs were found during this work, but it was not possible to decipher them before the recovery of further fragments. Toward the close of the season trial pits were dug in the river-bed to trace the foundations of the ancient Greek bridge ;• but this interesting investigation soon had to be relin- quished because of the rapid rise of the stream. During half the year the Touzla is almost stagnant ; but the broad sandy reach which intervenes between the narrow summer and the high water mark, and upon which the piers in ("Hi est ion stand, is overflowed by the heavy rains of Oc- tober. Of the eleven weeks during which excavations were carried on, six were spent upon the Acropolis in uncovering the tem- ple plan and in investigating the late fortification walls in INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 43 search of reliefs. The staff of men was comparatively small during these first weeks, — the news that employment was to be obtained on the site travelling slowly. The pits and trenches dug at the stoa, and the clearing of the earth in the subter- ranean passage and Byzantine rooms beneath, occupied two weeks. Scarcely six days each could be devoted to the re- maining sites, — the theatre, gymnasium, and street of tombs. All the digging carried out in the lower town can count for little more than a preliminary investigation. It was perhaps a disadvantage that the work of the year had so to be planned that its results should present, so far as possible, an independent study of the city. The undertaking of a second campaign was by no means certain. Towards the end of October, some time before the date fixed upon for the suspension of the work, digging was brought to a sudden close by official interference. By one of the laws relating to the antiquities of the Ottoman Empire, it is required that excavations undertaken at a distance from towns so great as to render supervision by local authorities difficult shall be watched over by a governmental commis- sioner, whose salary is to be paid by the investigators. Not- withstanding the restrictive clause, this law is enforced in whatever neighborhood the work is carried on, even in popu- lous cities like Bergama l and Tersoos. 2 Upon the granting of the iradch, the Minister of Public Instruction, Kiameel Pasha, stated, in reply to a direct ques- tion, that before the commencement of digging, and during any considerable suspension of the work, the presence of the commissioner upon the site would not be required. A week before the arrival of the first laborers due notifica- tion was sent to the local authorities of Iradjik, and a com- missioner was obtained, to whom was paid the maximum 1 The ancient Pergamon. 2 The ancient Tarsos. 44 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. salary customarily allowed in similar undertakings (at Troy, Per- gamon, etc.). The presence of this guard at the scene of the excavations proved to be a mere formality, and the amicable relations of the Expedition with the gentleman appointed to the post, Mehmet Effendi, member of the council of Iradjik, were perfect. It became evident that, on account of the advancing season and gradual desertion of the men, excavations would have to be suspended for the winter at the end of three months, — on the 6th of November. On the 1st of October notice to that effect was submitted to the local authorities, and formally accepted. It is with pleasure that the obligations of the Expedition to Shefket Bey, Kymacahm of Iradjik, are here acknowledged ; the familiarity of that gentleman with the French language, and his liberal views, the result of residence as attache of Turkish embassies in various European capitals, made intercourse with him personally agreeable, and assured his favorable consideration for our work. About two weeks before we proposed to close the excava- tions a Turkish office-seeker, of a type familiar in the ante- chambers of the Sublime Porte, arrived at Assos, stating that he had been appointed commissioner to the Americans at Behram, by authorities above the Kymacahm in power. He at once demanded excessive travelling allowances, and main- tained that his salary, — in amount thrice the generous sum before paid, — was to be continued throughout the winter, whether work were carried on or not. The new-comer pre- sented no credentials whatever, but, on referring the ques- tion of his official character to Shefket Bey, assurance of his direct dependency upon the Pasha of the Dardanelles was given. To accede to such excessive demands was out of the ques- tion ; to accept the new official would be to give a precedent INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 45 for all manner of extortion in the future. Still it was requisite to procure in person an endorsement of the Minister of Pub- lic Instruction upon the iradeh, which could be displayed to the Kymacahm, and, if need be, to the Pasha of the Darda- nelles. This direct appeal to the eventual arbiter of all ques- tions relative to the prosecution of excavations in territory under Turkish rule was wholly successful, after the usual delays attending the transaction of business at Stamboul. The would-be commissioner retired from the scene without even collecting his expenses. He had gained nothing, and the probability of similar attempts at extortion had been greatly diminished for the future ; but meanwhile the work had been stopped, and the enforced close of the excavations was vexatious. It was fortunate that the heavy sculptured blocks from the Acropolis had been brought down to the magazine at the port early in the season, for at the end of the year laborers enough did not remain to perform this task expeditiously. It is well known that all pictorial representations are an abomination unto the Moslem ; on this account it proved ne- cessary to remove the reliefs from the reach of the Turks as speedily as possible. The villagers of Behram gradually became too closely attached to the interests of the Expedition, by the friendly and unobtrusive bearing of its members, and by the material profit derived from the work, to make any hos- tile demonstration ; but the wilder peasants and herdsmen who came to the site from time to time were not always well disposed. The mosque of Behram is the only place of worship for miles around, and the inhabitants of the neighborhood frequently assemble, in festive attire and high spirits, to listen to the droning intonation of the Imam. After the excavations had been transferred from the Acropolis to the lower town the visitors always crowded, on Friday afternoons, to the exposed 46 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. foundations of the temple, and twice raised the heavy carved blocks which had been left, face downwards, on beds of fine earth, setting them up as targets for stones. Although this stoning was rather the result of wantonness than of malice, and prompt intervention allowed no time for noticeable dam- age, the occurrence caused a constant fear that so long as the sculptures remained upon the ground they might be defaced. The slightest injury would have been irreparable, and until the means of transport were obtained a watch was stationed to guard the discoveries. Among the articles soon after brought from Pergamon was a sledge, which had been built by Dr. Humann for the purpose of removing heavy stones from the mighty citadel of that royal town to the roads practicable for wagons. Upon this the reliefs found by the present Expedition were securely bound and dragged down the steep slopes of the Assos Acropolis to the sea, by the whole gang of workmen. It has been mentioned that the track formed by the Turkish soldiers in their work of destruction was utilized in the prepa- ration of the road for the sledge ; yet there still remained, especially in the upper course, many gullies to be filled up, and enormous blocks of the thickly strewn ruins to be thrown aside. The road descended in a tolerably direct course from the summit of the Acropolis to the port ; but so great was the exertion required, that the transport of the smallest sculp- tured blocks could not be effected in less than two hours and a half. Like the laborers represented upon Egyptian and As- syrian reliefs as moving gigantic statues, the men at Assos pulled upon either side of two long and heavy ropes, while the weight was started from behind by levers ; and, as was customary five thousand years ago, shouting and the clapping of hands formed an obligatory accompaniment. Facilitated as it was by the steepness of the track, the noisy exciting INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 47 work afforded an almost childish amusement, and was usually reserved for the end of the day. After the close of the excavations Messrs. Bacon, Diller, and the writer remained upon the site until the 1st of December. The results of the work were added to the map, the buildings unearthed were measured, and the preparation of the present Report and of the geological appendix to it began. The excavations proposed for the second season have been carefully considered, and it is with pleasure that the long and uninterrupted work, to begin in March, 1882, is looked for- ward to. The delays and difficulties experienced in the past year, and the requisite preliminary survey, restricted the dig- ging to one third of the time which it is hoped actively to employ during the coming campaign. The exertions and ex- periences of the first season are full of value for the second ; the broad foundation of the investigations at Assos has already been laid ; it is comparatively easy to add elaborate details to the general plan of the city. The expense of outfit and installation must always be one of the chief items in the cost of explorations in so distant and inhospitable a land. It is believed that four weeks' further digging will suffice thoroughly to complete the studies upon the summit of the Acropolis ; the amount of time and attention required by the other sites will become evident as the work advances. Upon all sides there are important and interesting questions await- ing solution ; and in the deep slides of earth, such as have been formed between the stoa and the base of the Acropolis, and directly above the theatre, remains of antiquity may be brought to light, of the existence of which there can as yet be no conception. Chief among the problems reserved for solution during the present year, in extent as well as in interest, will be those con- nected with the fortification walls built at various periods of 48 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. the city's history ; and notably the outer enclosure, which, though known only from one of Texier's inadequate plates, has long been famed as the finest existing monument of Greek military engineering. The outlines of the sketch map of ^Eolic Mysia and Lesbos here given are derived from the accurate coast surveys of the English Admiralty. The charts consulted were those of the Dardanelles, No. 2,429, surveyed by Graves, 1840, Spratt, 1855, and Wharton, 1872; of the entrance to the Darda- nelles, No. 1,608, surveyed by Spratt, 1840; and of Mytilene Island, No. 1,665, by Copeland, 1834. The last includes the northern coast of the Gulf of Adramyttion. The course of the Satnioeis and the position of the ruins of the Southern Troad have been determined by an independent compass triangulation, made by the present Expedition, — in chief part by its indefatigable geologist. The ancient towns have been added from the descriptions of their sites given by scientific travellers of the past century, from the references of ancient authors, especially of Strabo and Pliny, and in some few instances from the authority of the most eminent archaeolo- gists who have written upon the topography of Asia Minor, — Forbiger 1 and Cramer. 2 The map is here given only as indicating the general feat- ures of the land during antiquity. No attempt has been made to display the important relations of mountain and plain. A map on a larger scale, embodying all the observations of the Expedition, and complete, so far as possible, in respect to modern and mediaeval as well as ancient geography, is re- 1 Handbuch der alien Gcographie, aus den Quellen bearbcitet von Albert Forbi- ger. 2 Bande. Leipzig, 1842, 1844. 2 A Geographical and Historical Description of Asia Minor, with a map, by J. A. Cramer. In two volumes. Oxford, 1832. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 49 served for publication with a projected essay upon the topo- graphy and topographical history of the Southern Troad. The best existing map of Asia Minor is that of von Moltke, von Vincke, and Fischer, published in Berlin in 1844, and accompanied by a memoir relative to its construction. 1 The eminent geographer Dr. Henry Kiepert edited this map from the surveys of the gentlemen mentioned, who were Prussian officers temporarily in Turkish service. Its scale is 1 to 1,000,000, and it includes, besides the whole of Asia Minor, Armenia, Kurdistan, and Azerbijan. An outline map, scale 1 to 3,000,000, is given by Tchi- hatcheff, as an illustration of his great work upon Asia Minor before referred to. 2 It appears in two forms, as a colored geological chart, and as an indicator of the routes followed by the traveller during different years. A small portion of the northwestern corner of Asia Minor is also included in the official military charts of the Austrian Geographical Institute, that numbered P 14 of the Central European Series giving the greater part of the Troad, scale 1 to 300,ooo. 3 For those desirous of closely following the geological inves- 1 Title of map : Karte von Kleinasien, entworfen tmdgezeich.net nach den neus- ten und zuverldssigsten Quellen ; vorziiglich nach den in den Jahren 1838-39, von Baron von Vincke, Fischer, und Baron von Moltke, Majors (sic!), im k. Preuss. Generalstabe, und 1841-43, von II. Kiepert, Prof. A. Schonborn, und Prof. K. Koch, ausgefiihrten Recog)ioscirungen. In vi. Blattern. Redigirt von Heinrich Kiepert. Berlin, 1844. Title of text : Memoir iiber die Construction der Karte von Kleinasien und tiirkisck Armenien, von v. Vincke, Fischer, v. Moltke und Kiepert ; nebst Mit- theilungen iiber die physikalisch-geographischen Verhdltnisse der neu er/orschten Landstriche. Redigirt von Dr. H. Kiepert. Berlin, 1854. Another map of the land, on a still more generous scale, I to 400,000, intended to embody the results of all the recent surveys of the interior, is in preparation by Dr. Kiepert, who proposes also to publish his itineraries in the Troad during 1841 and 1842, on a scale of 1 to 100,000, which cannot fail to prove a most important addition to our knowledge of that country. 2 See ante, p. 8, note 3. 8 Published in 1878 by R. Lechner. Vienna. 4 ^O ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. tigations made during the past year, this Austrian map will be found the most serviceable of those hitherto published, being on the largest scale, and giving with reasonable accu- racy the position of nearly all the Turkish villages mentioned by Mr. Diller. The most recent map of the Troad is that prepared by Professor Ernst Ziller, of Athens, and Carl Heise, carto- grapher of the Royal Prussian survey, for Dr. Schliemann's Travels in the Troad during 1881. 1 It is almost beneath criticism, — being without scale, or degrees of latitude and longitude, and so incorrect that, for instance, the outline of Lesbos is drawn without its two great gulfs ! While the land of Europe is invaded on all sides by water, the general character of the enormous Asiatic continent is that of compactness, and its coast-line is comparatively short. Still the favor of fortune which formed the long peninsulas upon the northern shores of the Mediterranean, and so signally advanced and assured the commerce and civilization of Greece and Italy, was not wholly withdrawn from that part of Asia Minor bordering on the ^Egean. It has been remarked that the waves of that sea seem to have a peculiar power of pene- trating and dissolving parts of the land upon which they beat, forming islands, peninsulas, and capes by this dissolution, and creating a disproportionately long coast-line, with many gulfs and nooks favorable to primitive marine intercourse. All Asia Minor turns its back upon the steppes and deserts of the interior continent, no considerable river running to the east, and the Troad is separated from inner Mysia by rugged and uninhabitable highlands. If Asia Minor appears reluc- tant to belong to the great continent, the Troad unequivocally opens its arms to Greece. The yEgean, from the earliest 1 See a?ite, p. 14, note 2. INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 51 ages of marine intercourse, while seeming to divide has really- united the opposite shores, and the water-way to Europe has been more practicable than the overland journey to the inner countries. The Troad is the portion of Asia most nearly allied to Europe. Its eventful history tells of successive coloniza- tion by Phoenicians, Carians, Leleges, and finally by yEolic Greeks. It was conquered successively by Croesus and Cyrus; it was among the earliest of Roman possessions in Asia ; it often changed hands in the struggles between the Byzantine Greeks and Latins, and at length it submitted to and sank under the blows of Seljukian and Ottoman invaders. Leaving out of account the unsubstantial realm of ancient Ilion, Assos appears to have been in ancient times the most populous and flourishing city of the Troad. It was, moreover, the chief citadel of the land. Towards the close of the tertiary period an extended vol- canic upheaval revolutionized the northern coasts of the Gulf of Adramyttion. Two flows of trachyte — forming craters, dykes, and plateaus — covered the original limestone so completely that it is only in small and isolated patches that stratified deposits remain upon the surface to display the former geological condition of the land. A crest, rising to a height of five hundred metres, was thrown up along the coast from Antandros to the promontory of Lecton. The Satnioeis, second only to the Scamander among the rivers of the Troad, rises only six or eight kilometres from the Gulf, but, hemmed in by this continuous range, does not reach the ^Egean until after a course estimated at not less than seventy kilometres. At the point where the Satnioeis most nearly approaches the coast of the gulf, the intervening strip of land is but one and one-half kilometres broad. It was here that the crater ot a volcano formed the Acropolis of Assos. Situated between 52 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. stream and sea, rising steeply to a height of more than two hundred and thirty metres, and wholly isolated from other peaks, the cone is one of the most prominent features of the country. The inclination of the land between the port and the sum- mit is represented by Plate 5. 1 The average height of the surrounding plateau is about that of the terrace occupied by the theatre ; all above this may be considered as the elevation of the Acropolis. The crater was choked by the second and final flow of trachyte, — the stone which has had signal influence upon the topography and architecture of Assos. This material cleaves naturally to vertical and horizontal joint planes, and it is often difficult to distinguish the surfaces thus formed from those hewn by the hand of man during the systematic quarrying from the cliff. 2 The sides of the Acropolis assumed the char- acter of a vertical rampart, which reaches the greatest height in a double tier on the south and west. The view of the Acropolis from the northwest, Plate 6, 3 shows its cliffs, which 1 It is to be remarked that those not accustomed to judge the proportions of topographical sections will be naturally inclined to undervalue the steepness indicated in Plate 5. The elevation is not exaggerated, contrary to the usual cus- tom of introducing two scales, and making that of the vertical dimensions from twice to ten times as great as that of the plan. 2 Compare the remarks on the second trachyte of Assos in the geological appendix. 8 This view (Plate 6) is taken from a spot near the road which leads to the northwest from the point shown on the edge of the topographical plan of the city, Plate 1, as the site of " ruins." The grain-fields of the foreground have in great part been reclaimed by the villagers since the writer's first visit to the site. Be- yond them are the overthrown sarcophagi of the street of tombs, before the principal gate of the fortification walls. The ramparts can be traced from the re-entering angle to the declivity on the southwest of the Acropolis, and their ic is evident as far as the low towers which mark their extent upon the north. The transverse division wall is seen greatly foreshortened. At the left of the summit are the semicircular Turkish bastion, a mediaeval tower on Hel- lenic foundations, and the early Christian church now serving as a mosque. Be- neath thtbc follow the houses of Behram. 11 s S_ 2, \ ■ WAI.K.CR. SCU. o ,- - ■ 9 ■ _-. .. VV V „ -JpXgWU I n INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 53 are also indicated in their full height, upon the south, by the section Plate 5. Naturally steep upon all sides, and rendered still more secure by a judicious scarping of the rock, the summit be- came wholly impregnable by the construction of enclosing walls. The limited circuit was easily to be defended, while the enclosed area was still of sufficient extent to accom- modate an adequate garrison. A fissure in the rock of the lower step forms a natural well, and the supply of water was still further assured by the excavation of deep cis- terns at this point. It was with truth that Strabo 1 re- marked that Nature and Art had united to make Assos a stronghold. The view from the Acropolis is magnificent. At the north, beyond the Turkish village, the land descends rapidly to the alluvial plain formed by the Satnioeis. The river emerges from a rugged and confined gorge, and, winding through the green fields, is lost to sight in the dense oak forests of its lower course. The great volcanic plateau, which separates the stream from the sea, extends to the west, rising above Lecton to a height even greater than that of the isolated cra- ter of Assos. At the south, occupying nearly half of the horizon, lies the Gulf of Adramyttion, stretching from the little port, in the extreme inner nook, which bears its name, to the open yEgean, north of Cape Sigrion. Beyond this narrow channel is " the noble and pleasant island " of Lesbos, the pearl of yEolic lands. At the foot of Lepethymnus the promontory and citadel of Methymna is relieved against the majestic mountain which glows with constantly changing light and color, as the seasons of the year and the hours of the day advance. In the far distance, directly south of Assos, rises the peak of the Mytilenian Olympus. At the east tower 1 Strabo, xiii. 610. 54 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. the heights of Ida, the domes of Gargarus and Cotylos, and on a lower level Mt. Alexandria, famed for the judgment of Paris. Upon every side scenes of Greek legend and history are presented to that powerful second-sight of the lover of antiquity which sees the busy life of former ages where now remain but trackless plains and desolate ruins. In all Greek lands, from Sicily to Cilicia, no Acropolis is more favored than that of Assos, few more beautiful. The primitive races of the Mediterranean coasts everywhere built their towns upon such eminences or at the foot of them ; and this citadel thus directly upon the sea, and yet secure from piratical attacks, must have been occupied by the first inhab- itants of the Troad. Thucydides, 1 indeed, remarks that in the most ancient times cities were founded at a considerable dis- tance from the sea, in order that they might not be surprised by the sudden descents of pirates ; but that after the advancing civilization had brought immunity in this respect, a situation directly upon the shore was preferred. The inland positions of Troy, Athens, and many other cities near the yEgean must have been determined by such considerations of safety. At Assos, however, the high plateau and inaccessible Acropolis, though close upon the shore, were easily defensible, so that from the first its inhabitants were secure while they enjoyed the benefits of proximity to the sea, as well as the advantages afforded by the neighboring river and the fertile alluvial plains formed by its waters. The volcanic range, before mentioned, descends steeply upon the entire northern coast of the Adramyttion Gulf, nowhere affording a natural shelter either of roadstead or of port. The building of a mole, midway between the inner end of the Gulf and the promontory of Lecton, provided a refuge most welcome to the voyagers on the way from the 1 Thucydides, i. 7. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 55 city of Adramyttion, or from the natural harbor of Heraclcia, 1 to the great marine highway of the Hellespont, while it secured to Assos the monopoly of the commerce arising from the ex- port of the produce of the Southern Troad and the import of foreign merchandise required by that land. The history of the mole would be the history of the mate- rial prosperity of the city. When a storm washed away the upper part of the breakwater two years ago, it was the first care of the native merchants to patch it up with heaps of small stones, — temporizing with the fate which threatens the entire destruction of the port by silting up the shallow basin. Thus while the existence of Assos was primarily determined by the strategic advantages of its citadel, the further growth of the city was due to the commerce attracted by it as the only con- tinental port upon the Gulf of Adramyttion. It was its mole that made Assos the chief mart of the Troad, notwithstand- ing the fact that the area of the arable land of the Satnioeis valley is much less than that of the Scamander, with its broad-stretching plains. Assos was the sole emporium of the southern country, with the exception perhaps of a limited dis- trict in the immediate vicinity of Lecton. The later artificial port of Adramyttion at the end of the gulf was separated from the valley of the Satnioeis by the heights of Ida, and, deriving its exports mainly from the fertile Theban plain, can never have materially interfered with the commerce of Assos. Miserable as is the present village of Behram, it still in great measure maintains the commercial relation to the inte- rior that during antiquity rendered Assos the chief mart of the land south of the Scamander. The port is always crowded 1 The magnificent harbor here formed by the group of islands known to the ancients as Hecatonnesi has in recent years secured the growth of the flourishing town of Ivalee, referred to on p. 3. 56 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. with coasting vessels, — seldom less than eight, often more than twenty, lying within the mole. Communication by their means is regular between Behram and Smyrna, Mytilene, Ivalee, and Molivo. 1 In fair weather live-stock is daily carried across to the opposite island. The merchandise most exten- sively exported is valonia, the district in which Behram is situated producing greater quantities of this valuable tanning material than any other province of the Ottoman empire. 2 Long trains of camels bring the valonia from all parts of the interior to the port, where it is stored in the magazines and slowly loaded upon the boats. In the busy season seventy or more camels may sometimes be counted on the narrow strip of land between the cliff and the sea. 3 The port at Baba might seem a dangerous rival to Behram, being fairly protected by the gigantic blocks of the mole men- tioned by Strabo, lying nearer to Europe, and not situated under the lee of far-stretching cliffs ; but it has only a trifling commerce. Baba-calessi, though strongly fortified, and a con- siderable centre for certain Turkish manufactures, 4 is too dis- 1 The ancient Methymna. 2 According to statistics given to the writer by Levantine merchants, the an- nual production of the district of Mytilene, Iradjik, Eanedeh, amounts to 140,000 cantars, — the cantar being theoretically equal to 56.1 kilograms (123.7 pounds avoirdupois). The most extensive forests of the valonia-oak in the Troad are in the Touzla Valley, and dependent upon the port of Behram. 3 Behram has lost much of its strategic significance by the extermination of the pirates, who so lately troubled the shores of the Adramyttion Gulf, and by the present security of the land from marauders, — both resulting from the general advance of civilization in the Levant. The village itself is, probably, not much larger than it was during the last century ; but the port has become of much greater importance. Three of the four magazines at the water's edge were built during the last twenty years; the largest of them, which served the Expedition as a dwelling, being not yet two years old. In 1816, at the time of Von Richter's visit, three vessels lay within the mole ; to-day the number would average sixteen or eighteen. This increase of commercial activity indicates a gradual ameliora- tion of the interior country, evident from other considerations. 4 The cutlery of Baba-calessi has a far-spread reputation, especially its silver- handled knives of peculiar fashion. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 57 tant from the three fertile plains of the Touzla to possess much export trade. The commerce of Bertram, which with this exception re- mains the only sheltered port on the coast of the Troad south of the Hellespont, is relatively petty enough. Pasturers of herds were never willing servants of Demeter ; and now that the Turks — a people by nature nomadic, and possessed with a supreme contempt for agriculture — have dwelt in the land for over four centuries, the fields bring forth but a small frac- tion of what they might be made to produce by thorough cultivation. The invincible repugnance of the Turks to till- ing the soil is a characteristic of the greatest political and economical importance, perhaps even the point of greatest moment in their inevitable national decline. The gradual destruction of the forests of the Troad has been followed by parched summers and stormy winters. The streams disappear in the dry season, to flood and devastate their banks during the rainy months. The accumulated soil has washed away from the volcanic highlands, exposing barren crests of rocks, and covering the humus not within the reach of freshets with beds of sand and gravel. Only a small frac- tion of the once arable land is tilled at all, and the country which formerly exported grain is now barely able to supply its own demands, — though supporting perhaps the fourth, per- haps but the tenth part of its ancient population. A horn- of-plenty upon the coins of Assos once indicated the fertility of its territory; 1 the symbol would most certainly now be inappropriate. The area occupied by the city proper, within the line of fortifications, appears never to have exceeded one-half a square kilometre, fifty hectares, 2 — a small surface, 1 Several examples of the cornucopia upon coins of Assos are given by Mionnet, Description de Medailles antiques, grecques et romaines. Vol. ii. Paris, 1807. 2 About one hundred and twenty-four English acres. 58 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. indeed, compared with the extent of modern towns. Still the number of inhabitants assumed for Athens, Ephesus, or Syra- cuse, at the time of their greatest power, stands in small rela- tion to the crowded population of existing capitals. The limits to the growth of Assos, fixed by the natural forma- tion of the land, were not less marked than the advantages of its site. The position of the city upon a promontory divided from Inner Mysia deprived it of any extensive political influ- ence, like that long enjoyed by Pergamon. The port, upon a gulf which retreats from the regular marine highways of the Orient, never could assume the character of a commercial cen- tre for the goods of other countries. Its position was not such as created a populous city upon the barren Tenedos at the mouth of the Hellespont, or concentrated the nautical activity of the Archipelago at Delos in antiquity, — at Syra in the present century. Secure within the unrivalled ramparts provided by Nature and Art ; nestled around the archaic Doric temple of the Acropolis, so high above the sea as to lose the noisy cries of the busy little port, — ancient Assos may be imagined as a staid and orderly commercial town, tenacious of long-estab- lished usages, and conservative in its interior and exterior politics. It is to such a well-ordered existence that all the indi- cations afforded by inscriptions and public monuments point. The history of Assos has been varied and eventful, but from the natural conditions of the land, already referred to, rather passive than active, and hence not recounted in detail by ancient writers. It is probable that the Phoenicians, the first known seafarers in the waters of the yEgean, colonized a land of such importance as the Troad to their extensive trade with the Pontus. No names or positions of Phoenician trading-posts have been handed down ; but the prominent INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 59 citadel of Assos, rising directly above the sea, must have been among the first sites to attract the colonization of these marine adventurers. The remains of a fortification enclosure of most primitive polygonal masonry exist upon a height a few hundred metres to the west of the port, termed by the Ex- pedition the " Seaward Acropolis," and have not been disturbed by an occupation of that site during the historical ages, and evidently antedate the Greek colonization of the land. From the Hecatonnesi to the Hellespont no shelter what- ever is provided by natural indentations. Of the three moles, which have been built on the southern and eastern coasts of the Troad to supply this pressing need, — namely, those of Assos, Lecton, and Alexandria Troas, — the truly gigantic blocks at Lecton may possibly be the most ancient, as that cape is an important turning-point of the winds, and often a port of unwelcome detention ; but the first building of a break- water at Assos cannot be referred to a much later date. 1 The rough and piratical Carians in great measure kept step with the Phoenicians in the pursuit of the profitable commerce of the Euxine, and they too colonized the Troad ; in all proba- bility occupying the same stations, as they are known to have done on the shores of the inland sea. The prehistoric population of the Troad seems to have been driven from the land in the earliest historical ages by that branch of the Thracians known to Strabo, and to all later antiquity, as Mysians. The people to whom this geographi- cal denomination was applied were of the same stock as the Leleges, who at the period described by the Homeric poems 1 The location of an "ancient mole," at Toint Sivrijee (a slight projection of the land near the site of Polymedion), is one of the extremely rare mistakes of the chart of the British Admiralty, No. 1,665, referred to above, p. 9. The peculiar formation of a natural reef at this point gave rise to the error. An extensive consideration of the ruins of Polymedion, discovered by the present Expedition, will form an interesting chapter in a future Report. 60 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. occupied the northern coast of the Adramyttion Gulf. The identification of Leleges and Carians, referred to by Strabo, 1 appears inadmissible ; but traces of a preceding Carian occu- pation of the Troad, such as the names of towns, may nat- urally have been retained by the former people. It is an opinion not hitherto advanced, which seems to the writer capable of support, that Pedasos, the capital city of the Leleges, the town sacked by Achilles, 2 is identical with the later Assos. The Leleges, famed as navigators and pirates, inhabited the Southern Troad at the time of the Trojan war, being spoken of by Homer as living upon the coast. 3 This statement is confirmed by Strabo, who describes the province of the Leleges as extending from Lecton to Ida, 4 and again especially states that they possessed the country around Assos. 5 In the first passage of the Iliad bearing upon the city in question, Elatos is spoken of as living " by the banks of the Satnioeis, in steep Pedasos." 6 In the second, the king of the Leleges, Altes, maternal grandfather of Hector, is said to have dwelt in " lofty Pedasos upon the Satnioeis." 7 In seeking the chief town of a seafaring nation, thus desig- nated as rising above the Satnioeis, it is reasonable to look at once to the one remarkable spot where that stream, though at a distance of thirty kilometres above its mouth, so nearly approaches the coast that the settlement upon the intervening strip of land is situated both upon the sea and the river. An 1 Strabo, xiii. 611. The ancient geographer mentions the opinion, but does not assert it as his own. Its improbability has been displayed by Dr. W. G. Soldan, Ueber die Rarer und Lelcger, in the Rheinisches Museum fiir Philologie, Jahrgang iii., 1835; and by Dr. Ileinrich Kiepert, Ueber den Volksname?i dcr Leleger, in the Monatsberichte der konigl. Preitss. Akademie der lVissensekafte?i zu Berlin, 1861 ; Berlin, 1862, — to which excellent essays the writer would refer for details concerning the Leleges. 2 Iliad, xx. 92. 8 Iliad, x. 428. 4 Strabo, xiii. 605. 6 Strabo, xiii. 61 1. 6 Iliad, vi. 34. l Iliad, xxi. 87. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 6 I almost direct proof that the citadel at this point, which by nature commands the Southern Troad, served as the Lelegian as well as the Greek capital is further offered by the fact, that, in following the Satnioeis from the Halesian Plain of its delta to the headwaters of the rugged interior, no other site oc- curs to which the epithets atVetyo? and ai7r?;ei? could be applied. The Acropolis of Assos is thereby described with that truth to nature characteristic of the poet, whose thor- ough acquaintance with the Troad is evident in all his local descriptions. The relation of the names Pedasos and Assos seems con- firmatory of this conjecture ; and the often remarked lack of all direct mention of Assos in the Homeric poems is explained by it, — an omission the more surprising as the citadel is so conspicuous a feature of the land. In reading the Iliad in the Troad, one is readily inclined to believe the scholiast's tale that the poet resided at the Trojan Kenchreae while composing his work, and to doubt his blindness at the time. Strabo 1 mentions a town in the inner country of Halicar- nassus named Pedasa, surrounded by a tract known even in his day as Pedasis ; and it appears not impossible that the occurrence of the name in the native land of the Cari- ans may point to the designation of our city as a relic of early Carian occupation of the Troad. The termination aaaos, curcra, or icrcro?, laaa, signifying town, 2 retained in the names of several cities of Mysia and Lesbos (besides Pe- dasos or Assos, Lyrnessos, Caressos, Prepenissos, Corybissa, Thebassa, Eressos, Antissa, Larissa, etc.), is extremely com- 1 Strabo, xiii. 6u. 2 Dr. Fligier, Beitrage zur Ethnographie Klein-Asiens und der Balkanhalb- insel, Breslau, 1875, derives this termination from the Sanscrit, and points to its occurrence in almost all the lands famed in ancient history, from Dacia to India. 62 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. mon in Caria and the neighboring tracts (besides Pedasos, lassos, Halicarnassos, Mylassa, Halmylessos, Milessos, Ades- sos, and Tymnissos, that is, the city of Tymnos, a Carian hero, in Caria ; Pelmessos, Sagalessos, Carmylessos, Acalissos, and Habcssos, a name of Antiphellos, in Lycia ; Colobrassos, Saga- lassus, Tarbassos, Aarassos, Termessos, Pednelissos, and Sel- gessos, the ancient name of Apamea, in Pisidia ; Ariassos and Termessos in Cabalia ; Coropassos, Adopissos, and Pirnissos in Lycaonia, and many others). In many of these cases the independent significance of the prefix is recognizable, so that it is conceivable that it might be dropped off as in the case of Assos. In the passage last referred to, Strabo speaks of Pedasos as not in existence in his time ; but his failure to identify it with Assos may be compared to his fallacious argument concerning the site of ancient Troy, and his refusal to admit the identity of the primitive Chrysa with the town bearing that name at a later day. 1 Strabo 2 quotes the passage from the Iliad in which Pedasos 1 Dr. Schliemann, in his recently published book of Travels already referred to, p. 14, note 2, as well as in a paper previously read before the Anthropological Society of Berlin, which appeared in the Augsbitrger Allgemeine Zeitimg, iden- tifies Assos with the Homeric Chrysa ; remarking : " ich glaube dies um so mehr, als, nach der Ilias (i. 431), das alte Chrysa einen Hafen hatte, der ihm auch von Strabo (xiii. 612), zugeschrieben wird, wahrend an der ganzen nord- lichcn Kiiste des Golfs von Adramytteion Assos der einzige Ort ist, der einen solchen hat " (p. 23). That Chrysa was situated upon the Gulf of Adramyttion seems an assumption at variance with the shortness of the voyage of Odysseus, which appears to have been made, from Troy to Chrysa and back, in one of the poet's days. In this view the account would well agree with the identification of ancient and modern Chrysa, assumed on the accompanying sketch map. At a point of the coast near that site (the modern village of Kinlaclee) a small cove, constantly sought by fishing boats, provides good anchorage for vessels of no great draught, and, in most winds, fair shelter. Homer's description of the landing-place and the anchoring is better applicable to this spot than to one pro- vided with a breakwater. Strabo, in the passage referred to, in regard to the harbor merely repeats the words of Homer. 2 Strabo, xiii. 584- INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 63 is said to have been sacked by Achilles, 1 in connection with the piratical expedition of the hero to Lesbos, during which Thebe and Lyrnessos, also upon the Gulf of Adramyttion, and Chrysa, near Lecton, were ravaged. He speaks of Pedasos as in the country " opposite to Lesbos," and, if weight be at- tached to this testimony, the city can hardly be elsewhere placed than at Assos. The importance of the Southern Troad in the progress of the arts during pre-historical ages is indicated by the Greek legend of the Dactyls upon the heights of Ida, rich in the metals employed by those primitive artisans, whose names — Kelmis, Damnameneus, and Acmon; that is, hammer, tongs, and anvil — designate cunning workers in iron and bronze, This personification points to the empaistic art of the Phoeni- cians, — an art which appears to have been practised in several mining lands exposed to the influence of that people, as Crete and Rhodes (Telchinae). The significance of the conven- tionalized relief-sculpture upon the archaic temple of Assos, as affected in its style by the Asiatic overlaying of wood- carvings with sheets of beaten metal, will be referred to else- where. One of the most important and interesting chapters of the early history of the Troad and of Assos to be filled out by future researches is that relating to the influence of the great Mesopotamian civilization upon the coast lands of the ^-Egean. — an influence of subtile and far-reaching character, affecting alike the politics and the art of the early Asiatic Greeks. The recorded history of the Assyrians in the Troad consists of a few scattered passages in Greek writers, — the cuneiform inscriptions, hitherto deciphered and published, affording no direct information concerning a land which appears to have been beyond the borders of the Mesopotamian Empire even at 1 Iliad, xx. 90-92. 64 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. the time of its greatest extent. It is not probable that West- ern Mysia was ever subjugated by the Assyrian monarchs, not- withstanding the assurance of Diodorus 1 that the Troad and the shores of the Hellespont were conquered by Ninus. Stra- bo 2 mentions walls in Tyana 3 and in Zela, 4 said to have been built by Semiramis, which make it evident that the conception of an Assyrian occupation of Asia Minor was entertained in the later ages of Greek antiquity. While, however, we may doubt the fact of the actual incor- poration of the Troad in the Mesopotamian Empire, it yet appears undeniable that that powerful state exerted a consid- erable political influence upon all the countries of W r estern Asia, possibly even demanding a regular tribute from those upon the northern coasts of the ALgean. This view is borne out by a passage in Plato's Laws, 5 where the Trojans are spoken of as counting upon the support of the Assyrian Em- pire, " of which Troy was a portion." And Diodorus gives a tradition that the Assyrians, who at the time of the appear- ance of the Greeks under Agamemnon before Troy are said to have maintained their supremacy throughout Asia for a thou- sand years, sent a considerable contingent to the assistance of King Priam. 6 These passages, if taken literally, are indeed of little historical value ; but, like most such legends, they have a basis of truth. From the cuneiform inscriptions we learn that the realm of Tiglath-Pileser I. extended, before the end of the twelfth century b. c, to the shores of the Mediterranean ; that the 1 Diodorus, ii. 2. 2 Strabo, xii. 537, 559. 8 The present Kiz, or Killis Hissar. 4 The present Zilleh has retained the ancient name of its site almost un- altered. 6 Plato, Laws, iii. 22. 6 Diodorus, ii. 22. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 65 great commercial cities of the Phoenicians, those early colo- nists of the Troad whose influence was so constant and extended, paid tribute to Assur-nazir-pal as a conqueror in 870; that Shalmaneser II. visited the shores of the sea in- cluded in his realm in 859 ; and that his successor, Vul- nirari III., visited these provinces in 803 b. c. The cele- brated stele sent by King Sargon to Cyprus in 709, now in the British Museum, attests the subjection of that power- ful island, which was in so many respects the cradle of Hellenic culture. The Assyrian account of the expedition of Sennacherib to the Persian Gulf in 697 is particularly in- teresting, when the vessels built by Syrian and Phoenician workmen were manned by sailors chosen from the seafaring nations inhabiting the coasts of the ^Egean, and notably by Ionians. The Assyrian king could even contest the maritime supremacy of the Mediterranean with the fleet of the Greeks, winning a decisive victory on the coast of Cilicia, at a date not far from 690 b. c. The naval conquests of Tyre, at that time the greatest mercantile city of the world, and the conquest of northern Egypt, made by Assur-bani-pal, 1 must have spread the fame and influence of the Assyrians to the most remote lands of the sea. So extended was this pre-eminence by the middle of the seventh century that even the Lydians sent tokens of submission to the Mesopotamian despotism. Sardes, the Lydian capital, was less than two hundred kilometres distant from Assos. The peculiar importance and interest of the Assyrian influ- ence consists in its bearing upon the advancing civilization and art of the Asiatic, and through them of the European, Greeks, rather than in any direct political ascendency. It is hoped that the recovery of the archaic temple, and more espe- 1 Assur-bani-pal, 668 to 626, known to the Greeks as Sardanapalos. s 66 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. cially of portions of its sculptured decoration, by the present excavations, may add somewhat to our knowledge of the development of the Doric style and of the early Greek stone- carving, which stood in undeniable relationship to the artistic spirit and methods of Mesopotamia. The Southern Troad, once occupied by Leleges and Thra- cian Mysians, may be considered as sharing in some degree the aspirations and advance of the ethnographically allied Hellenic race. It was wholly and forever united to those interests by the ^Eolic colonization of Assos. In the latter half of the eleventh century the ^Eolian Greeks possessed the neighboring islands of Lesbos, Tenedos, and the Hecaton- nesi. The commanding site of Assos, famed for its strategic and commercial advantages, appears to have been occupied by them about the same time. It is not strange that the Greek settlers of Assos should have been reputed a colony of Methymna, 1 close as is the intercourse which the city is destined by nature to maintain with that opposite port. Methymna, the home of Arion, and at one period the chief city of Lesbos, retained in its name a reminiscence of the Ionian colonization of the island, which had preceded that of the iEolians. It is the site upon the northern coast of Lesbos, naturally corresponding to the Acropolis of Assos in the Troad ; and, as offering similar advantages, must have been occupied from the earliest age& The strait which separates the island from the continent is only ten kilometres broad, the distance between Methymna and Assos less than twenty. On calm days the passage is often made by row-boat ; the winds prevalent during the greater part of the year, though heavy, are regular, and sel- dom raise a dangerous sea in so confined a channel. 1 Myrsilos, quoted by Strabo, xiii. 610. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 67 This easy communication by water tended to connect Assos more intimately with JEoWc Lesbos than with the neighbor- ing lands of the Scamander, to which the roads are rugged and difficult. In primitive and lawless ages the sea is always safer than the land ; no ambush or unforeseen difficulty need be feared upon the narrow strait, which was overlooked from the citadel of either town. The low houses at the south of the castle of Molivo are visible from the port of Behram and from the Acropolis ; and on clear days it was possible to note the departure from the island of the little boat which weekly brought across the eagerly awaited mail of the Expe- dition. The yEolians gradually Hellenized the tracts of the conti- nent chosen for their settlements, apparently without any long warfare with the previous inhabitants, to whom they were in some degree ethnographically related. Some force was doubt- less at first required, but the final results must have been mainly due to the superior activity and intelligence of the Greeks, who stood in much the same position to the Mysians of the tenth and ninth century b. c, as do their descendants to the Ottomans of the present day. The ^Eolians appear to have acquired by degrees many traits of the original inhabitants of the continent, — even as the modern Greeks are in many ways affected by certain Turkish peculiarities of manner and speech. Having become wholly Greek, Assos advanced in power and prosperity until it possessed an extended tract of the surround- ing country, and was itself able to found the colony of Gargara upon a spur of the Ida range, twenty kilometres at the west. Though Assos may never have rivalled the greatness of the cities of the mother island, it was intimately connected with Methymna and Mytilene, at a time when they represented the highest contemporary advance of Hellenic civilization. When, 68 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. after an existence of nearly five centuries, Assos, in 560 b. c, fell into the hands of the Lydians, it is spoken of as the strongest and most important city of the Troad. The Lydians took up the thread of Oriental domination where it had been dropped by the Assyrians. Their influence is of particular interest in the history of the civilization and art of Assos. In the last half of the seventh century b. c, with the ascen- sion of the dynasty of the Mermnadas, the Lydians revolted from the yoke of Mesopotamia. The politic Gyges allied himself with Psammitichus in overthrowing the rule of Assur-bani-pal in Egypt ; and though Ardys, son of Gyges, after the invasion of Lydia by the nomadic Cimmerians, tendered submission to the Assyrian monarch, the land did not again fall under the declining power of the Mesopotamian monarchy. Concerning the independent development of the Lydian mon- archy we have only the authority of Greek writers, who offer a history rather copious than consistent. Gyges seems to have dreaded the advancing civilization and political power of the Greek settlements of the coast, and is said to have con- quered a great part of Mysia, including the shores of the Hellespont ; so that the Milesians, the most influential Greeks of Asia, were obliged to request the permission of the Lydians to found Abydos, in the Troad. 1 One of the chief sources of the wealth of Gyges, Alyattes, and Crcesus was reported 2 to be a mine situated between Pergamon and Atarneus, 3 almost within sight of Assos. The expansion of their power upon all the coasts of the ^Egean is evident from many such accounts. It is even possible that Assos had been subjected to the direct rule of the Lydians at an earlier date than that assumed. 1 Strabo, xiii. 590. 2 Strabo, xiv. 680. 3 Atarneus is identified with the present landing-place Deckclee, from whence the tools brought from Bergama (Pergamon) to Behram were shipped. INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 69 Croesus was appointed satrap of Adramyttion and the Theban Plain during the lifetime of his father, and his jurisdiction may well have included the neighboring cities upon the Gulf. Modern authorities believe this event to have taken place twelve years before Croesus became king. 1 Adramyttion itself, named after Adramytus, another son of Alyattes, 2 was known to later ages as a settlement of the Lydians of this period. 3 The Lydians, at least in the early ages of their history, were without an independent literature and art. 4 Their conquest destroyed the political independence of the land, but does not seem to have interfered with the intellectual development of the Asiatic Greeks. The artistic activity and progress of the Greeks on the Spo- rades, as well as in the chief cities of the main land, notice- able during the second quarter of the sixth century b. c, may in good measure be attributed to the fostering interest of the Lydian dynasty, and particularly of Croesus. The building of the Artemision at Ephesus and of the great temple at Miletus owed much to the proverbial wealth and generosity of this monarch. Unhappily the sovereignty of Croesus was not of long dura- tion. Fourteen years after his accession to the throne the Lydian Empire fell into the hands of Cyrus. The Troad, under the name of Phrygia upon the Hellespont, became a satrapy of the Persian Empire. So rude and unlettered a people as were the Persians of that age could have had little intellectual influence upon the countries thus transferred to their rule. 1 See Baehr's note on Herodotus, i. 45. 2 Aristot. in Stephan. Byz. 8 Strabo, xiii. 613. 4 The inventions of minted money and of inns for travellers were attributed to the Lydians. See Herodotus i. 94. 6 Arrian, i. 12; Xenophon, iii. 2, and iv. 1 ; Diodorus, xviii. 5. 70 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The fall of Croesus did but change the master by whom a certain proportion of the produce of the land was levied, the internal administration remaining almost unaltered. It is a noteworthy fact that the collectors of the tithes were more frequently Greeks than Persians. That the tribute was often oppressive there can be no doubt ; but this was apparently rather owing to individual exactions of the agents than to unreasonable demands on the part of the Persian monarch. The entire tax required from the Hellespontians of the south- ern coast, Phrygians, Asiatic Thracians, Paphlagonians, Ma- riandynians, and Syrians (i. e. Cappadocians), 1 — namely, three hundred and sixty talents yearly, — does not appear excessive. Assos must have been too long accustomed to dependence upon foreign rulers to feel that exasperation at the supremacy of the Persians which, in Greece, led to the later victories of Salamis, Plataea, and Mycale. After these signal defeats the Barbarians were driven from the Asiatic coasts of the yEgean. Herodotus concisely states, 2 that before the invasion of Xerxes there were Persian governors in Thrace and on the Hellespont ; and that these, with the sole exception of Mascames, in Doriscus, were after- wards driven out by the Greeks. The resistance of the fortified Sestos was an exception deemed worthy of especial remark. 3 It is probable that the towns of the Troad were freed by the fall of Byzantium (477 b. a), if, indeed, the Persians re- mained in the land after their decisive defeat at Mycale (479 b. a). To maintain communication open between the ^Egean and the Pontus, it must have been of primary im- portance to assure the freedom and fidelity of the Troad. The rapid growth of the Athenian state led to its alliance 1 Herodotus, iii. 90. 2 Herodotus, vii. 106. 3 Herodotus, ix. 114, 118. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 71 with nearly all the cities of northwestern Asia Minor, and probably with Assos, although this name does not occur in the remarkable inscription which, dating from between 440 and 436 b. c, records many of the cities belonging to the confederation. Neandria, Kebrene, Lamponia, and even the colony of Assos, Gargara, are on the list ; and Assos itself can hardly have been omitted. The object of the union was to carry on the warfare with the Persians, who were finally forced to the convention commonly known under the decep- tive name of the " Kimonian peace," at a date subsequent to 449 b. c. By this treaty, whether tacit or written, the freedom of the cities upon the coast was fully secured ; no Persian vessels were allowed upon the yEgean, and no armaments within a certain distance from the sea. With this security Assos may well have had a monumental renaissance, similar to that of Athens, if upon a smaller scale. Thasos, near the Trojan coast, offers a striking example of the material advance made by the Grecian states of the north- ern iEgean during the decades immediately following the de- feat and expulsion of the Persians. Darius had deprived the island of its fleet and razed its city walls ; but only twenty- five years later, at the time of its revolt from Athens, Thasos was armed by a strong maritime force, and fully protected by fortifications. The part taken by Assos during the Peloponnesian war is difficult to determine. Its position between the contending cities of Antandros and Mytilene was certainly not favorable to peace. Before the end of this unhappy contest between the Greek states the Lacedaemonians had assured the return of the Per- sian despotism to the coasts of Asia Minor, by their infamous treaties with Darius II. (412 b. a). The Troad did not pass wholly into the hands of the Barbarians for more than half a 72 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. century, being at first subject to the oligarchical government instituted by Lysander.immediately after the battle of Aegos- potami(405 b. c). Even after the peace of Antalkidas (387 b. a), which deliv- ered many of the Greek cities of Asia Minor to the Persians, a certain banker, Eubulus, maintained himself as master of Atarneus and Assos independently of the authority of Artax- erxes. On his death the eunuch Hermeias, a former confiden- tial servant of Eubulus, succeeded to power over these cities. Concerning the reign of Hermeias we have fuller informa- tion than of any other period of the immediate history of Assos, which is the more fortunate as the city then appears to have been one of the chief seats of Greek refinement and learning. Hermeias, a scholar of Plato, and himself the au- thor of a work (now lost) upon the immortality of the soul, attracted to Assos his fellow-pupils Xenocrates and Aristotle, the latter of whom was related to him by marriage. Aristotle lived in Assos for three years, 1 and we still possess the mag- nificent pasan composed by him in honor of his benefactor. Hermeias maintained the independence of Assos until the year 345 b. c, when he was betrayed by a Persian general, Memnon (or, according to Diodorus, Mentor), who, under pre- tence of effecting a reconciliation between the governor and Artaxerxes III., invited Hermeias to an interview, and sent him, ignominiously sewed up in the skin of an ox, to the Per- sian capital, where he was crucified. 2 The general thereupon sent letters, bearing the impression of a seal belonging to the unfortunate Hermeias, to the cities maintaining allegiance, stating that the sovereignty had been amicably delivered over 1 Compare Fabricius, Bibl. Gr iii. pp. 203, 495, eta; also Blakesley's Life of Aristotle, pp. 35, 44. 2 Strabo, xiii. 610, and Diodorus, xvi. 52, relate the fortunes of Hermeias, the former giving the most detailed account of the visit of the philosophers to Assos. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 73 to Artaxerxes. Assos again passed into the hands of the Persians without a struggle. The state had preserved a partial independence for six dec- ades, and was not long to remain under the rapidly declining power of the Barbarians. At the time of the fall of Hermeias, Alexander the Great was of age to receive the instruction of the fugitive Aristotle. Only eleven years afterwards all Mysia was freed by the battle of the Granicus (334 b. c). From Arrian we learn of the Hellenic reorganization of Phrygia upon the Hellespont after the astounding successes of the conqueror. But the varying political fortunes of the province need not be here recounted, as it passed from hand to hand during the disturbed period of the Diadochi. Of more concern in the history of Assos was the occupa- tion of the Troad by the Gauls. The fertile valleys of the Scamander and Satnioeis were separated only by the narrow Hellespont and the easily navigable Thracian Sea from these barbarous tribes, who established themselves in the Cherso- nesus and Macedonia after the death of Alexander. The Troad was exposed to the special ravages of the Trocmae, who for a time settled upon the Acropolis of the later Ilion. The repulse of the Gauls was due to the rising state of Pergamon, to which Assos was united in the year 241 b. c. Eumenes and Attalus, refusing tribute, drove the wild tribes to the coasts of the Hellespont, where they continued their rav- ages until expelled from Ilion by the inhabitants of Alexan- dria Troas, and finally defeated in a pitched battle near Arisbe (216 b. c), after having occupied the land for more than sixty years. Sharing the fate of the powerful monarchy of Pergamon, upon which so much light has lately been thrown by the excavations at Pergamon itself, Assos passed by bequest of Attalus III. to the sovereignty of Rome in 133 b. c. It was 74 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. during the period of Roman dominion that the greater part of the lower town of Assos, now in ruins, was built, the long- continued peace favoring the extension of the commerce upon which its existence depended. A number of the coins of Assos, Adramyttion, and Per- gamon, preserved in the numismatical collection of Munich, bear the counter-stamp of an owl, which appears to have been given them during this period to regulate the value of the different mintages and to facilitate their circulation through- out the province. The owl was naturally chosen as a com- mon emblem, the worship of Athena having been predominant in the cities mentioned. During the wars of the Romans with Mithridates, that ruler occupied Pergamon, the Romans being dislodged from Adramyttion and possibly also from Assos (88 to 85 b. a). Mytilene remained in a state of constant revolt between the first and second Mithridatic wars, and the situation of Assos must have led to constant disturbance during those years. Upon the whole, however, the powerful domination of Rome secured a long period of tranquillity to the city. Assos seems to have become Christian at an early date, perhaps in some measure as a result of the visit of St. Paul and St. Luke, while on their way from Alexandria Troas to Mytilene, 1 but more probably from the proximity of the seven churches of Asia, the influence of which was felt especially at the north. The disciple of St. Peter or St. John, St. Ignatius, — that great upholder of the prerogatives of the clergy, — dwelt for some time in the Troad. Marinus, Bishop of the Troad, was present at the first (Ecumenical Council of Nicasa (325 A. d.), and in the lists of the third council, of Ephesus (431 A. d.) occurs the name of Maximus, Bishop of Assos. 1 Acts of the Apostles, xx. 13, 14, INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 75 The church militant, with the support of the infamous Con- stantine, destroyed many monuments of the earlier Greek civ- ilization in every part of the country. If the temple of Assos, which had arisen with the freedom of Hellas from Oriental despotism, remained intact until the age of Theodosius, it had then little chance of further escape, — the imperial edicts ordering the closing of all fanes, and permitting any persons to carry off the hewn stones of their walls, to be used in the building of dwellings. The exposed Troad suffered from nearly every blow in- flicted upon the declining Empire of the East. Under Latins, Byzantine Greeks, Franks, Seljukian and Ottoman Turks the Acropolis of Assos was exposed to many attacks, and it is not surprising that the ruins show its fortifications to have been levelled to the ground again and again. Assos, like all the cities of this land, was thus gradually reduced to a miserable village. Asia Minor was long exposed to the destructive incur- sions of the Moslems. The authority of the emperors in the land was little more than nominal after the beginning of the eleventh century, and in 1080 the Seljukian Soliman occupied all the cities of the Troad. The unity of God and the mission of the Arabian prophet were preached in the Byzantine church, which had been built with the stones of the archaic Greek temple of Assos. The history of the three centuries which intervened between the first appearance of the nomadic Turkish tribes and the settled establishment of the Ottoman power presents a wearisome repetition of inva- sions and occupations. The unreasoning multitudes led by Peter the Hermit passed by the land, not inflicting directly upon it the destruction and misery which everywhere followed in their track. The oppor- tunity created by this disturbance was improved by the crafty j6 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Alexius, who, in enlarging his empire (1097 a. d.), added to it the Troad, which had been wholly estranged from the Chris- tians for a period of seventeen years. Asia Minor was recov- ered to the banks of the Maeander, and the Seljukian Turks driven forever from the Troad, to which the Christian ele- ment was again introduced by colonization from Europe. The region was more immediately affected by the passage of the third crusade (1189 a. d.), — the Emperor Barbarossa crossing into Asia from Callipolis to Lampsacus, and trav- ersing the land with the last Christian army which has accom- plished that feat. In the contentions between the Franks and Greeks at the beginning of the fourth crusade (1204 A. d.), Adramyttion was taken by Henri de Hainault, brother of the Emperor Baldwin. The extreme sectarian aversion felt between the branches of the Christian church, and still shared by the Levantines of to-day, prepared the way for the final triumph of Moham- medanism. Exhausted by continual struggles, the Troad fell irrecover- ably into the hands of the Ottoman Turks in the beginning of the fourteenth century. The conquest was finally achieved by Orchan ; but his predecessor, Osman, had defeated the Greek fleet at Lemnos in 1288, and soon after had occupied Yenisheri, near the ancient Sigeion. It is not plain whether Assos was at anytime subject to the Gattilusii, the Genoese Princes of Lesbos, who obtained their power in the year 1355 a. d., and, besides holding Lesbos, Tenedos, Ainos, and the four Thracian Islands, appear to have occupied some points of the Trojan coast. Lesbos maintained an administrative independence until 1463 A. d., though it had been tributary to the Turks for almost a cen- tury previous. One of the hard conditions enforced upon the Gattilusii by Sultan Mahomet II. was the responsibility INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 77 for all marine damages affecting Turkish vessels upon the Asiatic coast opposite Lesbos. The tract specified by the historian Ducas as subject to this condition extended from the river Crimac 1 to Behram, and this is the first mention of the Turkish town upon the ancient site of Assos. The district and civil government of the Troad, which have remained unchanged in all fundamental respects, were insti- tuted by Orchan and his brother Ala-Eddin. The subsequent advance of the Ottoman power into the heart of Europe could have had no influence upon the Asiatic provinces beyond insuring their freedom from the miseries of invasions and sieges. The long-continued quiet could not bring prosperity to the Southern Troad, deserted by its Christian inhabitants. Un- der the enervating yoke of the Turks the sparsely populated country languished in lethargic repose, severed from all inter- course with Europe until the advent of the scientific travel- lers and archaeologists of the past century. For convenient reference in the study of the development and decline of the city, — as illustrated by the monuments, — the chief periods of the history of Assos may be grouped under the following dates : — Pre-historic occupation of the Troad by Semitic, Phoenician, and Carian colonists .... Pedasus (Assos) capital of the Leleges . . before 1000 b. c. Date commonly assumed for the beginning of the Trojan war, and sacking of Pedasus by Achilles : B.C. 1193. Growth of the ^Eolic colony .... about iooo to 560 b. c. At the close of this period, Assos the most im- portant city of the Troad. The influence of Assyria felt by all the lands of the Eastern Mediterranean, from the age of 1 The ancient Caicos. 78 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Tiglath-Pileser (1120-1100) until that of Assur- bani-pal (6G8-626). Lydian conquest 560105496. c. First subjugation to Persia 549 to 479 b. c. Assos a semi-independent state 479103453. c. The influence of Athens paramount before 405 b. c. (battle of Aegospotami) ; after that date, establishment of an oligarchy by Lacedoemon. The rule of Hermeias, at the close of this period, particularly worthy of attention. Residence of Aristotle in Assos (348-345 b. c). Return of Persian ascendancy, prepared by Lacedaemonian treaties with Darius II., 412 B.C. Second subjugation to Persia 345 to 334 b. c. Rule of Alexander the Great and his followers . 334 to 241 B. c. Invasion and occupation of the Troad by the Gauls from 288 until 216 B.c (battle of Arisbe). Assos embodied in the kingdom of Pergamon . . 241 to 133 B.C. Empire of Rome 133 b. c. 10330 a. d. Assos exposed to the ravages of the Goths during their second and third expeditions (264 and 269 a. d.). Early Christianization of the city, and conse- quent destruction of the monuments. Empire of Byzantium 330 to 1080 a. d. Period of continual decline. Occupation of the Troad by Seljukian Turks . . 1080 to 1097 a. d. terminated by the first crusade. Continuation of the Byzantine empire by Greeks and Latins 1097 to ab't 1330 The Troad in the hands of the Franks from 1204 until 1224 a. d. Gradual advance of the Ottoman Turks ; vic- tory of Osman at Lemnos, 1288 a. d. Final occupation of the land by Ottoman Turks, about 1330 The village of Behram, upon the site of Assos, visited by Choiseul-Goufner, a. d. 1785. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 79 The volcanic crater of Assos formed a majestic natural altar peculiarly adapted for a Greek acropolis. The irregular cone is divided, as by a terrace, into two steps, which are in plan so eccentrically related that their fortification walls are united upon the east. The area of the inner enclosure contains very nearly 3,000 square metres. The summit, which is not a perfect plane, rises to the highest point at the extreme northwestern corner. (See Plate 2). The altitude was determined, in the lack of a level, by repeated barometrical readings to be 234 metres above the sea. Of the most ancient fortification walls of this inner citadel only a vestige remains at H, displaying carefully jointed polygonal masonry of comparatively small stones. From the position of these blocks it appears that, at least upon the southern side, the area of the Acropolis has rather been contracted than extended by the later occupants. The mediae- val and Turkish ramparts are too rough to deserve particular attention ; cut stones were employed only for the sill and jambs of the western gate, still in position. Hastily built of broken blocks embedded in thick layers of mortar, all the masonry bears evidence of the frequent demolition which the citadel has sustained. In digging around these enclosures a num- ber of skeletons were brought to light, with broken weapons, spear-heads, knives, etc. All remained as they had fallen during the attack or defence of the stronghold, with the rubbish of which they were covered. Upon the summit no ruins of ancient buildings were dis- covered other than those of the temple. How the northern half of the enclosure was occupied in ancient times is not as yet evident. The transverse trench at the north, shown upon Plate 2, though exposing the native rock throughout its course, struck upon no walls antedating the Middle Ages. The sur- face of the cliff was so uneven and inclined, that if the existence So ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. of any antique structures whatever be assumed upon the northern half of the Acropolis, it is apparent that they must have been founded upon a terrace of earth which has long since been washed away. At the south the volcanic rock presented a more even surface; and, by the help of quarrying and filling out with courses of masonry, a level of considerable extent was secured as the site of the chief sanctuary of the city. In all the wonderfully picturesque lands inhabited by the Greeks, no site of a building was more imposing and beautiful than that of the temple of Assos. The peak rose so steep, that, standing within the peribolos of the fane, one could look down into the holds of the vessels in the port beneath, and so high that the foundations of the temple were at an elevation half as great again above the sea as are the finials of the slender spires of Cologne above the Rhine, or the apex of the great pyramid of Gizeh above the Nile. The constructive details of the temple of Assos, though wisely planned and carefully executed, were, from the nature of the material employed, not of the delicacy observed in the limestone structures of Attica. The carving was bold and effective, but somewhat blunt in the smaller members ; the jointing was perfectly close but irregular. It is a peculiarity of this building that the cliff itself was al- lowed to remain as the stereobate wherever this was possible, — in two instances, indicated by asterisks upon Plate 7, even rising to the level of the naos pavement, and serving directly as the foundation of the cella wall. A great part of the peri- bolos enclosure was made by smoothing the summit of the crater, as is evident from the plan ; the rock forming almost the whole of the northern and more than half of the western bed. Upon the south and southeast the rock here and there rises to the level of the lower step, these points being indicated J TO v_ Plate 7. Flook of Temple. INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 8 1 on the plate by asterisks. The paving slabs which occupied the interstices have remained only at the north of the fane, the destruction of later ages having reached a greater depth upon the south and east. The natural rock was, however, not permitted to form the stylobate or the lower step, it being here quarried to the level of the surrounding plane. At the southwestern corner of the building the depression in the rock, to be filled with a substructure of masonry, was particularly deep. A pit sunk at this point to a depth of 1.6 metres showed the even and carefully jointed courses to project slightly, like the well-known foundations beneath the southern steps of the Parthenon. (See the section upon Plate 7.) A firm bedding for the steps, whether cut from the native rock or formed by a substructure of masonry, was thus carefully insured. Notwithstanding the many earth- quakes which are known to have affected Assos, the entire crepidoma of the temple has remained unshaken. The two steps were formed of blocks varying in length from 1 to 3.2 metres of a nearly uniform thickness of 0.28 metre. The lower course was brought into position by knobs left upon the exposed faces of the stones even after the completion of the building. Next to the lateral surfaces of contact, — upon the exposed front and upper edges of the blocks of both steps, — there were also left thin (0.003 m -) an d narrow (002 m.) projecting fillets, to obviate, in as far as pos- sible, the chipping and defacement of the joints. The oblit- eration of such legitimate technical makeshifts was contrary to the spirit of Greek workmanship. The stones were bonded together by iron clamps, cast in lead ; no system was observed in this connection, either one or two clamps being employed for each joint at irregular dis- tances from the front edge of the step. The length of the stylobate blocks, at least upon the remaining sides, was not 82 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. determined by the width of the inter-columniations, the posi- tion of the columns in relation to the joints being entirely- irregular. Beneath the shafts, the fillet on the edges of the stones was removed. Where the pavement of the pteroma and pronaos did not rest immediately upon the native rock, its foundations were not constructed of the courses of masonry deemed necessary for the steps. In three places where the paving blocks of the pteroma were missing, the natural surface of the cliff, uneven and untooled, was exposed by the excavations at a depth of from 0.6 to 0.8 metre. Upon the plan, Plate 7, this rock is indicated by daggers. It was covered with chips of trachyte, evidently resulting from the carving of the building blocks. Upon the firm bed thus provided there rested rec- tangular paving slabs averaging 0.18 metre in thickness. The system of jointing observed in the pteroma was irregular, though transverse blocks with a width of about 0.57 metre were common. • The level of this pavement was not so high as the general level of the stylobate by 0.015 metre ; and this sinking, taken in connection with the irregular character of the jointing, seems to point to the original existence of a flooring of cement. The stones of the pavement abutted in places directly upon the ver- tical surface of the wall, as is the case for instance next to the southern antae ; but more frequently the slabs did not meet the irregular foundations of the wall, and the considerable interstices thus remaining could not well have been otherwise filled than by the cement generally employed in primitive Doric constructions. It is natural that no vestiges of such a thin layer of stucco should have survived the exposure of the pavement to the weathering of fifteen centuries, and its occu- pation as the floor of mediaeval and Turkish dwellings. Upon the rear of the building the pteroma pavement has INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 83 been entirely carried off ; upon the front only the course of stones next to the upper step is missing. Those following show a projection in the axis of the entrance, 2.7 metres wide, the purpose of which is not evident, and to which no great importance can be attached in view of the irregular character of the jointing. Within the pronaos, sinkings at A A, Plate 7, expose a lower foundation, which appears to have supported pedestals natu- rally to be assumed in that situation. The beddings of the door-jambs are cut upon the lower sill, which makes evident the width of the portal and the thickness of the wall between pronaos and naos. The interior pavement of the enclosure is preserved in some vestiges of a mosaic formed of cubes of black and white mar- ble. Enough of this remains to insure the restoration of the design, the return being fortunately preserved upon a frag- ment at the northwest. A border of bands and the broad Greek wave ornament enclosed a field of diamond pattern. This mosaic rectangle probably occupied that part of the naos, before the sacred figure and the bema, which was open to the worshippers ; its area corresponds, in relative extent, to the similar spaces in the plans of the great temple of Zeus at Olympia and of the Parthenon. It is impossible to determine the age of the mosaic, but it may be supposed to date from a late restoration. The inner pavement of the sanctuary was naturally that part of the building first worn away and most easily replaced. The stones of the mosaic were laid in a floor of cement, which remains to a considerably greater extent than the pattern. Beneath this the entire area of the naos was covered with fine earth, which in part appears to have accumulated during the occupation of the site by dwellings, in part is evidently the original bedding of the floor. The foundation stones of the cella walls were in position 84 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. throughout their extent, with the exception of two blocks next to the northwestern corner. These stones were of irregular shape and size, brought to a plane upon the upper surface, to receive the imposed masonry, but otherwise rough and unhewn, since they were hidden from sight, upon their inner edges by the pavement of the naos, upon the outside by the cement floor of the pteroma and pronaos. Upon these blocks, and upon the two exposed surfaces of the natural rock before mentioned as sharing their functions, the outer line of the cella wall was engraved in its entire extent. The temple crepidoma, thus characterized technically as well as ideally as an afta!;, was directly employed by the Greek master-builder as a drawing-board. On the plan, Plate y, these delicate inci- sions are given in broken lines, being distinguished from the measurements in line-dot, and the traces of weathering at the bottom of the columns in dots. The lack of this engraving upon the interior points to a less careful execution of the inner surface of the wall, which probably bore a coating of stucco. The thickness of the walls of the antae was indicated by these lines. In the lack of similar evidence for the lateral walls of the naos these may reasonably be assumed as of equal thickness to the division walls between naos and pronaos. Examples of this manner of construction, where the enclosing walls are thinner than the free-standing antae, though com- paratively rare, are still not wanting among the peripteral Doric temples hitherto known. The position of the foundation stones and the engraved lines upon them display an exceptional feature of the plan ; the cella was wholly without an epinaos, the plain wall of its rear being carried across the west at the same distance from the steps as upon the sides. The two columns of the pronaos in antis stood upon square INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 85 slabs, considerably larger than the adjoining paving stones, beneath which foundations of masonry probably descend to the native rock. These shafts, protected by the ceiling of the broad front pteroma before them, were but little exposed to the weathering, and the position of their lower drums is distinguishable only by microscopical traces. Ten columns upon the northern side and eight upon the south have left more distinct marks, from which the number and position of the lateral shafts are evident. It is particularly unfortunate that the lack of the stylobate upon both ends has rendered it impossible to ascertain the various widths of the inter-colum- niations of the front and rear. With this single exception, which has been hypothetically made good according to the striking analogy of the Theseion, the restored plan, Plate 8, is accurately determined from the remains. • • • • • • • m • • # # * # # * • • • • • • • • • » • : aS55 1 «§§ I » m • • » # • • < PTC? Plate 8. Not one stone was found in position above the stylobate. The restoration of the superstructure was consequently a work of considerable difficulty, requiring the most careful search for important blocks. The drums of the columns, scat- tered upon all sides of the Acropolis and built into the enclos- 86 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. ing fortifications, varied in length from 0.6 to 1.4 metres. To ascertain the height of the shaft several hundred measure- ments of these blocks were necessary, their comparative shortness being unfavorable to the investigation. A difference of 0.02 metre was observed in the lower diameters, but the great number of bottom drums rendered the given average trustworthy. The twenty capitals remain- ing upon the site allowed a similar calculation for the upper diameter of the shaft, of which the individual variation was nearly as great. By measuring each diameter of the inter- mediate drums eight times from arris to arris, the proportion- ate diminution of every truncated cone was ascertained. The results thus obtained, contrary to expectation, averaged exactly the same for upper as for lower drums ; thus proving that the columns were without the entasis, which would have required a considerably greater diminution above than below one-third the height of the shaft. This lack of entasis is perhaps explicable by the small dimensions of the temple and the hard and coarse nature of the material of which it was built. According to the statement of Durm, 1 the col- umns of Corinth, which are in other respects similar to those of Assos, are also without entasis, and it is possible that this refinement was not generally introduced until a more ad- vanced period in the development of the Doric style. It has been mentioned, that, owing to an injury to the levelling instru- ment, the question of the curvature of the horizontals could 1 Josef Durm, Die Baukuttst der Griechen, des Handbttches der Architek- tur zweiter Thai; Darmstadt, 1881 ; p. 63. The author evidently refers to original investigations, as the older authorities upon the ruins of Corinth — Blouet, Expedition de Morie, vol. iii., and Stuart and Revett, Antiquities of Athens (accessible to the present writer only in a translation) — do not refer to the entasis directly. Krell, Geschichte des Dorischcn Styls, on the other hand, states that an entasis existed, but whence his information is derived is not stated. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 87 not be definitely determined during the past year ; but so far as the observations went the stylobate appeared perfectly level, — any deviation as great as 0.01 metre would have been readily recognized by the reversed readings. This ap- parent neglect to counteract the optical deceptions of math- ematically exact lines agrees entirely with the omission of an entasis, which was designed for a similar object to that of the curvature. The proportionate diminution determined by the difference between the lower and upper diameters of the shaft fixed the height of the column. The given dimension can hardly vary more than 0.08 metre from the truth. The lower surface of the bottom drum generally displayed the slot cut for the centre peg by which it was turned upon the customary lathe. In some instances this sinking had been obliterated by the shortening of the block. For if the total height of the several drums intended to be fitted together to form a shaft was found before their erection to be too great, it was at the base alone that a decrease could be effected, — the surfaces between the drums requiring the steadying centre presently to be described, and the juncture with the capital, like all the intermediate joints, not allowing any change of diameter. The upper surface of the lower drum, and both planes of every one superposed (with the exception of the uppermost, on which the capital rested, where the slot of the turning cen- tre peg remained), showed a hole cut for a cylindrical pin of wood about 0.045 metre in diameter, which served as an axis for the grinding of each stone upon the one next beneath. In the perfected Doric buildings of Attica this pin was enclosed, and worked in cubical boxes of the same material, cemented into the opposite drums with red lead. In the temple of Assos the solicitude for accurate juncture had not been 88 ARCH&OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. carried so far, the wooden axis bearing directly upon the stone, in the centre of which a cylindrical hole was cut to receive it. As can be seen from the sketch, Plate 9, the plane surfaces of the drums were so tooled as to present points of contact only in a concentrical band, about 0.1 metre broad, upon their edges, according to the practice universal in all Greek architecture of good period. Plate 9. The shafts of the peripteros had sixteen channels, those of the pronaos eighteen. It is an inexplicable and unique ar- rangement of the channelling upon the columns of the temple of Assos that arrises, not hollows, were in the axes of the plan, and in line with the faces of the abacus. This peculi- INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 89 arity was evident from the weathered marks of the lower drums upon the stylobate, as well as from the termination of the channelling upon the necking of the displaced capitals. 1 It is evident that with their eighteen channels the shafts of the pronaos presented a hollow in the line of their lateral axes better fitted to receive the transverse bars of the grille, cus- tomarily employed as a barrier between pteroma and pronaos, than the sharp edge of an arris. Still, it should be remarked that upon the single drum of eighteen channels which was found during the excavations, no traces of such a metallic barrier were to be detected. Plate 10. From the lower surfaces of the capitals it appears that the juncture between them and the upper drum of the shaft formed an incision. The channellings, as is shown in the outline of the necking and echinos, Plate 10, were terminated go ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. by direct intersection with the lower annulet. The three annulets projected in nearly horizontal planes, in some in- stances the first slanting slightly upward from the shaft, while the two following were almost imperceptibly under-cut. The outline of the echinos is of great vigor and beauty, the upper termination, hidden from the eye, being generally treated as a straight line, meeting the lower surface of the abacus at an angle of forty-five degrees. The variations of the individual capitals are chiefly noticeable in the diameter of the surface adjoining the upper end of the shaft, and in the width of the abacus. The height of the necking is one of the most constant dimensions of the structure. Not one surely recognizable block of the cella wall remains upon the site. The identification of the stones composing the most ancient portion of the neighboring Byzantine church as belonging to the walls of the temple is more than probable, but leads to no result. Among the blocks lying near the temple was one which may prove to be the inner lintel of the naos door, and another which seems like a fragment of a capital of one of the antae ; but this remains to be determined. From the marks upon the foundation stones it is evident that the wall throughout its extent was without projections in plan, and hence probably plain upon its surface. The epistyle beams, as in the Parthenon, were triple, — an exceptional number for so small a construction, the entire member measuring only 0.82 metre in thickness. It is ex- actly as broad as high, while the epistyle of the Parthenon, of more than double the absolute dimensions, is one-third again as broad as high. The middle beam did not occupy the entire height of the epistyle, the outer blocks being so thickened upon the upper half as to meet above the block between them. (See the section, Plate II.) It is difficult to advance a satisfactory explanation of this peculiar con- INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 9 1 struction. The saving effected in the weight of the facing blocks was more than counterbalanced by the additional labor required to cut stones, naturally splitting to parallel and rectangular planes, in- to the irregular shape thus determined ; and the difficulty of assur- ing exact joints upon the soffit was rather increased than les- sened by the duplica- tion of the surfaces of contact. The outer face of the epistyle, being sculptured with reliefs requiring an architec- tural frame, was bor- dered upon the bottom by a band which is not found in any other Doric building. Tae- nia and regulae were of comparatively slight projection, the latter being without trunnels. The plain epistyle blocks with- out lower border,found during the investiga- tions, probably be- longed to the inside. That both the outer Tl i i^-TTrr k a eighty; ..tent f the temple dies not date from an epoch more re te than the termination of the I . ar. The archaic character of the reliefs is due to local provin- cialism, as well as to the antiquity of the work : in deter- mining the proportion in which these two influences are to be estimated by the historian of art, the appearance of so great an individual variation gives great weight to the former. With the sculptures, as with the architecture, it is evident that the most advanced characteristics must be held as the true indication of the age of the monument, rather than the traits that exhibit primitive conceptions and technical in- ability. The high perfection exhibited by Plates 16 and 18 by no means points to a greater antiquity than, for instance, that of the sculptures from the gables of the temple of the semi-barbarous decorations of Assos may be supposed to be contemporary. The sculptures of the temple of .-Egina, like its architectural peculiarities, record an independent advance beyond the most immediately pre- ceding works. Such an advance is not to be expected on the northern coast of Asia Minor during this historical pe- riod, and could not have been instantaneously shared by a land so recently freed from the long occupation of Oriental barbarians. The metopes from the temple of Assos, here presented, are certainly far more inferior to the sphinxes, lions, and boar of the epistyle than are these latter to sculptures of European Hellas, referred to the third decade of the fifth century b. c. ; and yet the greatest variation possible in contemporary sculpt- ure cannot be assumed to be displayed in these decorative reliefs. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 119 Though previous writers have been able to judge of the date of the sculptures of Assos only from the blocks in the Louvre, without knowledge of the architectural arguments derived from the plan and elevation of the temple now given for the first time, it is proper to call attention to the fact, that, with the exception of Clarac, the most eminent authorities on the history of Greek art by no means share the views here advanced, but assign to these works a considerably greater age. Dr. Brunn, whose un- equalled knowledge of the style and artistic relations of antique sculptures gives his opinion the greatest weight, has not found the discoveries here published to alter his former belief, that the construction of the temple of Assos was previous to the sixty-fourth olympiad, b. c. 524. Mr. Sidney Colvin, in the essay before mentioned, remarks that it is impossible to date the reliefs later than the sixth century. Of the older writers, Friedrichs even attempts to prove, from the absence of the lion's skin as an attribute of Heracles, that the sculptures were carved before the end of the seventh century b.c. ; while Overbeck, on the other hand, thinks it doubtful if they are older than the sixtieth olympiad, b. c. 540. The temple reliefs of Assos may be considered as the most important link in the chain connecting the carvings of the early civilizations of the East and the unequalled sculptures of Greece. It is only by defining the position of such works that the application of the historic method to the study of intellectual and artistic growth can be of value. Archaeo- logical investigations can in no wise give a more direct and practical assistance to the architecture and sculpture of to-day than by indicating the path followed by the early Greek artists in their progress toward supreme excellence. The Oriental and transitional character of the reliefs, evi- dent from the pre-eminence of the animal forms, is even more apparent in the reminiscences of the empaistic work of Phce- 120 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. nicia, that great mediating power between the sculpture of Mesopotamia and the primitive attempts of Hellenic art. The Homeric epics constantly point to the Syrian coast as the home of skill in sculpture and metal work ; and it is not surprising that the Greeks of Asia Minor, being immediately exposed to this influence, should retain traces of the art of the hammer even as late as the end of the Persian occupation. The proceeding of the Phoenician artisan was to make a model of wood for the relief, or sculpture in the full round, as the case might be, upon which sheets of metal were secured, and finally beaten to the shape of the carving beneath. This method of work was long practised, and, its products being ex- ported in all directions, was of the most widespread influence. It is natural that the peculiar forms resulting from the techni- cal properties of beaten sheet-metal should determine a style which is recognizable even in stone carvings, when these were me creations of sculptors familiar with works of this kind. All ihe prehistoric monuments of Greece bear traces of this influ- ence ; and it appears in the archaic and provincial reliefs of Assos, recent as these are when compared with the treasures and tholos of Mycenae. It is most noticeable in those sculpt- ures which are least developed in artistic respects ; the sphinxes and the hindquarters of a lion betraying no traces of it, while the characteristic metallic forms are strikingly evident in the struggle with the sea-monster, the banquet, in the metopes found during the past year, and in the lion's head from the corner gutter. The figures upon these last reliefs offer, in general form as well as in detail, analogies to the primitive vase paintings of Phoenicia. 1 This empaistic character of the sculptures of 1 Compare Raoul Rochctte, in the yonrnal des Savans, Avril, 1835; De Witte, Catalogue Diirand, Introduction, and other passages relative to the question; Ch. Lenormant, Cours d'Histoire Ancienne : Introduction d VHistoire de i'Asie Occidentale, etc. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. \ 2 l Assos explains the striking similarity noticeable between them and the most ancient bronze works of Etruria, — espe- cially the important reliefs from a chariot found at Perugia now preserved in the Glyptothek of Munich, and the figures from Cervetri, published by Grin. Not only the detailed forms of the decoration of the temple of Assos, but its position upon the building, point to the pro- totype of a work of hammered metal, and in this respect it appears of direct importance to the history of the early archi- tecture as well as the sculpture of the Greeks. The reliefs upon the epistyle, the principal constructive member of the entablature, warrant the conjecture that the timbering of an- cient Asiatic fanes was overlaid with sheets of metal, as is known to have been frequently the case with the columns and walls. 1 The wooden roof and ceiling of the original Hellenic cella appear in the temple of Assos already translated to the un- varying stone forms of the Doric frieze and cornice, with the exception alone of the trunnels, which seem not to have been regarded as of canonical importance. The great peculiarity of the entablature, — namely the decoration of the epistyle, a func- tional lintel never sculptured in the perfected Greek styles, — appears to be a provincial imitation of the empaistic overlaying customary in the architecture of neighboring lands. The importance of so remarkable a monument to the early history of Hellenic art is evident. It is not the purpose of this first Report to treat in detail of the city walls of Assos or the monuments of the lower town. Much, indeed, has been ascertained to which no refer- ence can be at present made ; for even were the full pub- 1 A reference to this empaistic character of the reliefs of Assos is made by Semper in Der Stil, etc. Zweite Aufiage. Munchen, 1876. Bd. i. p. 406. 122 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. lication of the partial results already obtained considered desirable, there does not now remain time for the comparative studies to which it would lead. The season is approaching when the trenches are freed from the frosts of winter, and the active work of the second season is at once to be begun. Still, in order to indicate the scope of the investigations, a number of illustrations are given which require a brief ex- planation. In descending from the upper step of the Acropolis, re- mains of Hellenic fortifications are met at the northeastern extremity of the lower level. The enclosures at this point rise to a height of one metre above the present surface of the ground, being of a heavy masonry of equal courses, apparently of about the same character and date as the extensive city walls. These ramparts must have been overthrown at a compara- tively early age, for they appear as the foundations of a square tower of good mediaeval masonry (Plate 23), which has been filled by the kitchen debris and ashes of successive occupants to a height of not less than eight metres above its floor. The door of this structure seems to have opened upon the platform of the ramparts which enclosed the lower Acropolis ; and as this wall has been demolished, there is now no accessible entrance. The corner of the tower has been broken into by the Turks, at which point the stratified debris is exposed. The Byzantine church, now serving as a mosque, is sepa- rated from the tower by a narrow passage, and, as may be seen from the plan (Plate 2), stood outside the fortifications. This is the building — "un ancien temple de forme elegante, moitie" carre, moitie conique" — which appeared so remarkable to Poujoulat, who maintained that " la religion musulmane nous a ainsi conserve dans son integrite premiere un monu- ment appartenant aux beaux ages de la Grece." -- r > 3 z v. ■Z ~ -. > z r - <, - - - . . .. • - - pi 'i ■ ■ =■. r INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 123 Such an amusing conception is not necessary to make the church of interest to the investigator ; its importance as being built of stones from the wall and ceiling of the Doric temple has already been indicated. The site of the building has been planed from the top of a prominent cliff, the columns of the vestibule standing directly upon the native rock. The greater part of the edifice is Byzantine, its age being perhaps determined by the inscription upon the lintel of the door (Plate 24). The vaulting of the dome, which appears upon the exterior as an octagon, may be that of the original construc- tion, although the pendentives are Turkish stalactites, dating from an extensive restoration, which greatly altered the ex- ternal appearance. The narthex must have been almost entirely rebuilt at this time, its graceful arches being of the pointed form peculiar to early Ottoman architecture. The building is situated so directly above the village that the minaret which the Turks elsewhere added to Christian churches was not necessary. The bare interior was at first zealously guarded from the visits of giaours, but during the second season there will probably be no difficulty in making the necessary measurements for detailed plans and sections. The publication of the monuments which appear in the topographical sketch (Plate 3) is wholly reserved for the next Report. Before the stoa plateau, directly above the theatre, there extended a second edifice, provided like the upper colon- nade with reservoirs. No excavations whatever have been made in the deep earth at this point, and the general arrange- ment of the complex of buildings must be accurately deter- mined before any consideration of details can be of value. The elaborate descriptions of the theatre given by Hunt and Prokesch-von-Osten, taken in connection with the points de- termined by the trial pits sunk here during the first season, establish the arrangement of auditory and scene, at least in I2 4 ARCHsEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. plan ; but the connection of the theatre with the terraces above it is uncertain, and all these structures of the central town, which seem to date from a contemporary rebuilding, are too closely related to admit of their being separately described. The excavations at the gymnasium have not led to results which could as yet justify a thorough consideration of this edifice (Plate. 4), which, in its frequent antique restorations and involved original disposition, presents many unsolved problems. A detail of the extensive mosaic discovered in the basilica hall is given in Plate 25. Formed of various-colored marble cubes, of careful workmanship and interesting design, this pavement must have covered a space not less than three hundred square metres. The border, of which every division presents a different pattern, has remained intact in the greater part of its length exposed by the trenches, the centre having unfortunately been almost entirely broken away. Remains of another mosaic were found in the enclosure, and it is hoped that the continued examination of this site may lead to interesting discoveries. It has already been stated that one of the chief tasks of the second season will be the thorough study of the fortifications of Assos. The importance of these unrivalled monuments of Greek military engineering is so great that were their publi- cation to be the only result of the Expedition, the undertaking would be amply repaid. Not only are the planning and con- struction of the ramparts, towers, portals, and posterns of in- terest in each case, but traces of successive enclosures, dating from different ages, illustrate the growth of the city in extent and power, giving information such as is afforded by no other remains of antiquity. The most recent Hellenic fortifications, which alone have been known from the Description de I'Asie Mineure, notwith- 13 > < w g M as H o g O g > g /••' ! c g 1 — ~~ -j *»■ i v.. yf / 'if. 1 I I TSSIir^^TTFTiT ' I',.'' 1 .: ■ ■PP^ Portal In Western Wall- Assos Plate 27. .. ■' ■ '»>■ • % m & Plate 28. Tower at Northwest Gateway. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 125 standing the lamentable injury lately done to them by the Turks, are still in a wonderfully perfect state of preservation. The remark of Tcxier appears hardly an exaggeration ; in places the walls " seem rather a commenced and unfinished work than a ruin." Throughout their entire extent, — a length of over three kilometres, — these fortifications are built with unvarying care, being skilfully so planned as especially to pro- tect the points by nature most exposed to the attack of a besieg- ing enemy. The greater part of the circuit can be traced ; it is only at the north of the Acropolis, near the precipitous descent from the village to the river valley that the position of the wall is uncertain. The rectangular blocks, exactly jointed, are laid without mor- tar in horizontal courses of equal height, bonded from face to face by headers. This regular masonry is at times built upon and on the face of the polygonal walls of an older period, as is shown by Plate 26, which represents a breach at the extreme west. The principle of the vault is employed in one of the towers, but not in any of the gate-openings where circular and pointed blind-arches are cut from the horizontal courses, — as at Ephesus, Thoricos, Messene, etc., — or where the edges of the projecting stones form an oblique transition to a compara- tively short lintel, as in the portal, Plate 27. This opening, marked A upon the topographical plan (Plate 1) is in the transverse division wall, which runs from the Acropolis cliff to a re-entering angle of the outer fortifications. The northern and southern enclosures of the city were connected only by this narrow passage, in the jambs of which the bolt and pivot holes of the heavy doors are visible. The chief gateway of the northwest upon the ancient road leading to Lecton and Alexandria Troas is flanked by enormous towers, one of which is shown in Plate 28. The view is taken towards the Acropolis, the northwestern corner of which, show- 126 ARCH&OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. ing the height of the lower step, appears in the distance. From the cliff descends the before-mentioned transverse wall with the portal, Plate 27. Outside of the fortifications are seen the vestiges of the sar- cophagi and sepulchres which bordered the street of Tombs. The plan of this extensive cemetery appears on a small scale upon the map of the city ; its section, looking to the north, is given by Plate 29. All the antique structures upon this sketch- restoration have not been determined by the limited excava- tions undertaken at the site, but the general arrangement of the terraces is accurately indicated. The funeral monuments were placed upon the edges of three levels, which, rising above the principal road, extended to the foot of the city enclosure. The broad passages left free from sarcophagi must have served as a promenade and place of assemblage for the inhabitants of the crowded town ; this -._« *&r Plate 31. ». '3 h3 - > H M M X w d > PVARIOPFAN1 AQVILAE rt C. H W. J.[. Plate 32. Plan ^nd Section of Receiving Tomb. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 127 destination being shown by the attractive arrangement of broad steps and public seats from which the magnificent sunset pano- rama of the river plain and far-stretching gulf could be enjoyed. Two such exedras, the one of semi-circular, the other of rect- angular plan, are presented in elevation by Plate 30. Plate 33. The tombs are of every variety of form and disposition, from vaulted receiving sepulchres, like that shown in Plates 31 and 32, to free-standing sarcophagi, — one of the most interesting, but by no means one of the best preserved, of which is illus- trated in its present condition and original appearance by Plates 33 and 34. The carving upon this latter chest, although badly weathered, is so characteristic in design, that if its shattered sides are discovered during the future investigations, it will well repay transportation, notwithstanding its great weight. Farther from the gates of the city are mounds of debris, which mark the situation of extensive monuments, so hope- lessly overthrown that an understanding of their construction 128 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. was not possible without excavations, for which the first year allowed no time. One branch of the road which passes the street of Tombs continues directly to the north, crossing the Satnioeis at a point indicated upon the map of the city, Plate I. Here were discovered considerable remains, which afford the only known example of an ancient Greek bridge, Plate 35. The structure is certainly the only existing instance of a work of this kind in which the principle of the lintel, so tenaciously adhered to previous to the age of the Diadochi, has been consistently carried out. The fact that the Greeks seldom attempted the execution of monumental works of engineering, such as were so often undertaken by the Romans, made wooden bridges much more common than those of stone, even in such impor- tant positions as the passage between Aulis and Chalkis, where a bridge connected the island of Euboea with the mainland. Of these timbered constructions there remains, of course, not a vestige. All the stone bridges occurring in Greek lands are of vaulted form, 1 and must be referred to the late epoch of the Roman occupation, as in the instances of the triple pass- age over the river Pamisos, between Andania, Megalopolis, and Messene, and the single arch over the Eurotas, near Sparta. The projecting horizontal courses of the foundations on the road between Pylos and Methone may be of considerable age ; but, as in every known example, the upper portion of this struct- ure, built with wedged-shaped stones, dates from a mediaeval restoration. At Assos, on the other hand, the ruins show the bridge to have maintained its original form unchanged as long as it was 1 Gell, Itinerary oj Greece, etc., London, 1S10, mentions two examples of small constructions above rills with a horizontal termination, at Phlios, and near Mycenae, on the road to Nauplia ; but the former appears to have been a mere opening in the fortifications of the town, and the latter is a formless mass of small stones, the age of which is extremely doubtful. Neither can be spoken of as a proper bridge. v -Dry Bed. of River, overflown in V/inier-; -*^« **=••. _i. ■*£ ■■■- ' ° ^ ..-. ...•_•!; .-tea- • a*. ?..„... ^' =• ■ £? -r-^V- - .Of C$? £& Plate 35 Bridge on the Satnioeis. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 129 in use. Upon the southern bank of the stream, above the high- water mark, the stone beams of the platform are still in posi- tion. The piers are in plan of elongated diamond-shape, and extend upon either side slightly beyond the bridgeway to a length of 3.6 metres. The masonry of these supports consists of large blocks, carefully jointed, and is particularly remarkable for the system of combing by which the action of the current is resisted. The detail of pier is given on Plate 35. The joggles cut twice upon each course made it impossible to displace any stone by lateral pressure without entirely over- throwing the heavy pier, which presented a minimum width to the stream. Upon these admirable foundations was laid a platform of stone lintels, in length about three metres from centre to cen- tre of the piers. Four beams were placed side by side to provide a passage amply broad for the needs of ancient traffic. Wagons can never have been extensively employed in the rugged Troad. The lintels were bonded together by swallow- tailed dowels of wood, in the manner universal in the Hellenic architecture of the fourth century b. c. Seventeen piers, thus connected, are known to have extended from the southern bank to the present summer bed of the river, where the last traces were examined. Upon the northern bank are the remains of a heavy abutment. The midsummer work of the second season will determine whether the piers and horizontal stone beams were continued across the deeper water, or a lighter-timbered structure spanned the thirteen and a half metres remaining between the abutment and the last foundation which could be observed after the October rains. It is certain that the course of the stream has not changed at this point, which was by the nature of its banks particularly well adapted for the site of a bridge. Only a short distance above, the sandy reach, overflowed by the stream, is several 130 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. hundred metres broad ; while below, in the Halesion Plain, the arches of a Roman bridge are so far from the present bed that the water cannot be seen from the ruins. 1 A peculiarity of the Assos bridge is that it did not cross the river at right angles, but followed the general direction of the road. The axes of the piers were, however, parallel to the current ; and hence the lintels were in plan placed obliquely upon their foundations. The winter bed of the stream, near the bridge, appears to have been entirely paved in antiquity, probably as an approach to the summer bed, where the water is still drawn for the use of the village of Behram during the dryest months, as already described. The greatest disadvantage of the site of Assos must always have been its lack of fountains ; and the reservoirs and cisterns built for the collection and distribution of the rain-fall are of an importance not elsewhere accorded to them by the Greeks. In crossing the plateau again, the road, after passing the southern limits of the city fortifications, descends so abruptly to the port that the houses are seen almost directly from above. The climb from the sea to the city enclosure is the steepest and stoniest conceivable ; the break-neck position of Assos was notorious even in antiquity among a people who found nothing remarkable in the elevation of the Acrocorinthos or the Acropolis of Segesta. Stratonicos, an Athenian musician and poet, noted for his witty and sarcastic remarks, a number of which are preserved by Athenaeus, applied to it the line of the sixth book of the Iliad, — "A(T(tov W, gj? K( •' 6a < o n : Sz - ', CV c Troi<; aia>v[os] vvv ivecTTwros, E8o£ev Trj /3ovXrj kcu tois 7rpayp.aTeuop,evoi iSuov Taio? Ouapiog Taiou mos, OiioA-riFia, Kaoros, 20 'Hpp,ocpuvr)<; Zw'iXov, Kt^to? IltcncrTpaTOU, Aicrxpiwv KaAA«£avors, ApTep.t8wpoi\op.ovcrov, otrivc? /cai V7rep t^5 Taiou Kaurapos 2e/3aAIXHTAITA2KA T0I2KAA0I2KAIArA90I2TfiXANAPttX nAPAriXftXTAIAXAPESASIOITOTAHMOTEIA. 5 IIAPX0T2AXETXAPI2TIAXAEA0X9AITHIB0rAH • AHMfiIEIIHXH29AIT0XAHM0XT0XA22IQXEIIIT' • • • • SlXEXEinP02HMA2KAI2TEAX0r29AIATTGXEXT0I2 • • • T0I2AI0XT2I0I2ATAHTflXTHinPfiTHIHMEPAIXPT2QI2TE • AXfiIEniTfiAn02TEIAAIAIKA2TA2KAA0T2KArA90T2KA ■ 10 • PAMMATEAEnHXHSGAIAEKAITOTSAIKASTASTOTSnA- PArEXOMEXOTSEXEAAOXAOHXArOPOTAATIMOXKAEOMOP • OTKAI2TE*AXQ2AIEKATEP0XATTfiXXPT2{n2TEAXftXEII ■ • • • • ITASMBNAIAAIBLASAIT0NAIK0NI2S0KAIAIKAIQSTAS TSAIAnOnAXTOSTOTBEATISTOTTnAPXEINAEATTO ■ 15 MBOTAHXKAITONAHIMOXnPfiTOISMETATAIE PATIIAPXEIXA • • • • • KAinP0SEX0T2TH2n0AEQSHMfiXSTE $AXfiI2AIAE • AITOrrP • • • • TEAMEAArXPOXMEAArXPOTGAAE PniZTE$AN£2IEIIITfinAPASX ■ 29AITHXKA9ATT0XXPEIAXMETA ILASHS*IA0TIMIA2TH2TEANArr ■ AIA2TfiX2TE$AXGNTHNEII. SD • • • S • • nGE2A29AITGT2ArflXG0ET ■ 2T0TM0T2IK0TIXAAEKA. A22I0IEIAH2ft2fXTHXTETflXANAP ■ ■ KAA0KArA9IAXKAITHN T0TAHM0TETXAPI2TIAXAIPE9HXAIIIPE2BETTA20ITIXE2AIKG MEX0UIP0SATT0T2EIIE E22IXTETHX ■ OTAHrKAITGXAH M0XT0TE*HI2MAAn0Afi20T2IXATT0I2KA ' ■ ■ GAXI0T2IXTII ■ '5 TETfiXAXAP0XKAA0KArA9IAXKAITHXETX0IAX ■ XEXOMEX nP02T0XAHM0XATTQXKAinAPAKAAE20T2INA22IGT2KAinA PATT0I2n0H2A29AITHXAXArrEAIAXTfiX2 ' E*A NfiXTnGTGTKATA2TA9n20MEX0TAraX09ET0T ■ GT M0T2IK0TAraX02nP0X0H2AIAEIXAKAIT0^H#I2MAAXA ■ ■ • 30 *HIEI2THAHXAI0IXIIXKAIAXATE9HIIAPATTOI2ENTfiIE ni*AXE2TATniT0nmnPE2BETTAIHPH9H2ANKAE0MH AH2UriA2Ar0P0TAXAHAr0PA2AI0XT2I0T INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 137 6~/X'JS 'J.~i i/7 llI rus ku . . . roti KaAots kclI dya#ots tcuv dv8pwi/ 7rapayiVa>VTai dvSpes u£toi to£> 8rjp.ov eto- 5 .... [ore? Tr/v uj 7rdp^oucrav cu^aptcrrtavj SeSo^^at tt} fiovXfj . . . f«at Twj] 8l][JH0 iTTTJirrjOrOaL TOV 8r)jJ.OV TOV AaCTLWV €71" I T(_y . . . ewoia r)]i' £;(ei wpos lyp-ds, kcu o-T£<£avo«r0at avTov eV Tots .... Tots Atovwtots, auA^ruV ry 7rpwT7) ijp.epa, ^pucrw crre- [<£]aVu>, £7ri tw d.7roo-retXat 8tKao-Tas KaAous Kaya^ous Ka[t] 10 [y]pap./xaT£a, im]vrjcr6aL Se Kat tows StKacrrds tous 7ra- payevop.evovc, 'E^e'Aaov 'AOr/vayopov K6.tljj.ov KAcopop- [y]oi), Kat aTecpavcnaai iKu.re.pov avrwv XP VCT $ o-TeT0ts piera to. te- pd • vTrdpyeiv 8'[ai;T]o[us] Kat Trpo£evovs t>}s 7roAea>s ^p,aV ■ ore- <£avc3o-at Se [«]ai Toy yp[ap.p.a]re'a, MeAay^pov MeAdyxpov, #aAe- pw o-Te<^)dva), £7rt to Trapac-^/] cr#at t^v Ka#' carov ^pet'av pterd irdo~T]<; <£tAoTtp,tas * t?}s te drayy[e]Ata? tcov o-TecpdvLov ttjv £tt[/-] 20 [crrao-tv] TrorjcracrOaL Tot's dyuvo^eVas tov ptovo-tKOu. Iva Se Ka[t] "Ao-o-tot £iS^o-(uo-tv ttjv t£ twv dvSp[wv] KoXoKayaOiav Kat rt\v tov 87/p.ou evyapio-Tiav , atp£#?}vai 7rpeo-/3evTa.$ oiVtv£s de^t/co- p.£VOl 7TpOS aUTOVS €7T£ CTIV T6 TTJV [/3 J ovAr/y Kat tov Sr)- fiov to T€ if/r)LO-p.a aTToSwo-ovcriv atTOts Ka[t a7r] o^avtoSonv t^[v] 25 T€ Tail/ dvSpcLv KoXoKayaOiav Kai t?)v Ewotav [r;] 1/ e^op.ev 7rpos t6v Sr)p.ov avTuiv, Kat ■jrapaKaXecrovo'iv Ao-crtov? Kat 7ra- p' auTOts Tror)crao-Oai ttjv dva.yye.Xiav twv cr[T]E<£d- vu>v viro to9 Ka.TacrTa9rjo-op.evov dytovouerov [tJou pLOvatKov dycovos ' irpovor)craL 8e Iva koX to ij/ytpLO-pia dva [ypa- J 30 (firj Et^s] o-tt^Atjv XiOivqv Kat draT£#?7 7rap avrots £V t<3 £- 7ri(fiaveo-TaTco T07ra). TlpecrfievTal rjprjOrjcrav KAfop^- 8t;s 'Hytacrayopou, 'Ava^ayopas Atovucrtou. 138 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. . . . [That] the people may appear [duly grateful (?)] to noble and good men [and that] men may come to us who are worthy of the people, knowing the gratitude which is in store for them, be it enacted by the senate [and the] people, that the people of the Assians be thanked [for the good-will which] they have for us, and be crowned with a golden crown at the . . . Dionysia, on the first day of the flute-players, inasmuch as they have sent us good and honorable judges, together with a clerk; and further, that the judges who came to us, Echelaos, son of Athenagoras, and Latimos, son of Kleomorgos, be thanked and be crowned each with a golden crown, inas- much as they gave judgment in some of the suits [equitably] and justly, and settled others amicably in the best possible manner ; that they have [access to] the senate and people the first after the sacrifices, and that they be consuls of our city; further, that the clerk Melanchros, son of Melanchros, be crowned with a wreath of leaves, inasmuch as he has per- formed his duties with all zeal ; and . . . that the overseers of the musical contest be charged with the proclamation of the crowns. And in order that the Assians may be made aware of the excellent character of these men, and of the gratitude of our people, be it further enacted that ambas- sadors be appointed who shall go to them and [thank] their senate and people, and deliver to them this decree, and shall make known to them the good character of these men and the good-will which we have for their people, and shall invite the Assians to make proclamation of the crowns in their own city also, through the overseer who maybe appointed to superintend the musical contest, and to see that this decree be cut upon a stone pillar, and set up in the most conspicuous place in their city. Kleomedes, son of Hegiasagoras, and Anaxagoras, son of Dionysios, were appointed ambassadors. Line 8. avXriruv tt? irpdorri r^spa : cf. Aeschines in Ctes. § 45, K-npvTTfaBai rots rpayvSoTs, and the spurious decree in Demosth. Cor. § 118, Aiovvo-iois rpayw5o7s Kaivois, with the corrupt expression in the spurious indictment (ibid. § 54), Aiovv ffiots rpayuiduv tj) Kaivfi. Line 12. 2TE*ANnN is the stonecutter's mistake for 2TE*ANm. Line 13. I22ft must be a mistake for I2A2 or 02IH2- Line 16. Perhaps for virdpxeiy 8' avrovs ical 7rpo|eVous we should read virdp- Xeiv 5e yeveaBai irpo^vovs. Line 23. The word here needed seems to be Ziraiviarovcri, which might be spelled iirevto-ovai; but Mr. Lawton reports that the fifth letter is circular (0, O, nr fi), and the copy from the stone gives the ending E22IN, but with only the first 2 certain. Phonetic spellings, as ttjh ^nv\^v (1. 15), roy ypafinarta (1. 17), f5ov\i)y Kai (1. 23), will be noticed ; as also occasional omission of I in HI and QI, and careless insertion of I after II and Q. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 139 III. This is a fragment of a decree of the Roman period, entitled 7repl rod nrj KaOla-Tao-dcu irpaKTopas. We have chiefly the preamble, of which the last lines are imperfect. The inscription has the late forms C and />l for 2 and Q, and omits I entirely in III and QI. AOrMAnEPITOTMHKAeiCTAEGAinPAKTOPAC TNfiMHBOTAH LTEKAI AHMOTAAXONTGNAO TMATOrPAfiNEnANeOTCTOTEPMOrENOTC EPMOrENOT LTOTEIIANeOT CKPATH EINEI 5 KOTTOTMENELeEfiC . . EIIEIAHOKOINOCAIIAN TiMEKilPOrOXONETEPrETHCTI X KA X NEIKA CI C LTNAIIA CINOI LAAAOI CETEPrETITHNIIA TPIAAKOCMONTOEATTOTrENOCENnANTIKAI PfiENAEIKNTMENO LTHNEI CTHNIIATPI AAET 10 NOIANKAITH DHMEPONHMEPABEBOTAHTAI NOMOeETHCEICTONAMNA . . TAELTHNAITH. KOINHEETEPrELIAEKAiniKP . . MErAAOT#OP TIOTTHNnATPIAAKOT OEANAAEXO MENOCTHNTfiNnOA KTOPONIIPA 15 2INAEAOX0AITH HMOKAITOIE nPArMATETOM fiMAIOILEHH NHL9AIMEX XT TONAP . . TAAErONTA TAKAAAILT 20 IIIKEA ETPA Ar . OMO THNKATOP0 . nPAKTOP 25 SENIK TOTT TO 140 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Aoypa 7rept tov p.77 KaOtaTacrOaL 7rpaKTopas. Tvw/xr] f3ov\r)i Te kcu Syfxov, Aa^ovrcov So- yjjLaToypucfxDV 'E7rav0ous tov Eppoyevous 'EppoyeVous tov 'Fi7rdv$ov<; KpaTrjo-iveC- 5 kov tot) Mevecr^ews . 'E7ra§r) 6 koivos d-rav- toov £K 7rpoydvwv evepy€T7]s Ti. Ka. Nei/ca- v to eavrou ye'vo?, ev ttovtl / Sv/Jpoj Kai T019 7rpaypaTcuop[evois Trap r/plv 'P]wpaiois irrr)- vr)o~6ai p.ev T tov dp[io--J Ta AeyovTa Ta KdAA<.o-T[a] 20 7TlK€NTACTePrOIKAINEKPONAMieiIOI TlapOevoTrrjv Kvva Odij/ev 'Avd£eos, "Q (rvvdOvpev, TavTrjv tc/dttcoX-^s dimSiSous ^dpira. Ectt aoXov aTopyrjVTa aTepyoc kol veKpov d[A<$>i(.iroi. Parthenope his dog, with whom in life It was his wont to play, Anaxeos here Hath buried ; for the pleasure that she gave Bestowing this return. Affection, then, Even in a dog, possesseth its reward, 142 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Such as she hath who, ever in her life Kind to her master, now receives this tomb. See, then, thou make some friend, who in thy life Will love thee well, and care for thee when dead. H. G. C, Jr. VI. Found at Mytilene, in April, 1881. HPOCXAIPG "Upwg x^P e " ZHCACGTHEMHNeCIA £rycras eri] I pjves id HMGPACKG i^iepas k£. II. NOTES ON BUNARBASHI AND OTHER SITES IN THE TROAD. By WILLIAM C. LAVVTON. HMEI2 AB KAE02 OION AKOYOMEN OYAE TI IAMEN. PRELIMINARY NOTE. [The identification of the site of Homeric Troy has long been a subject of animated controversy among those scholars who believe that the Iliad is a more or less literal account of events which actually happened, or that it has at least a considerable foundation of fact. In 1785-86 Lechevalier explored the Troad, and identified Bunarbashi as the Ilios of Homer. Since his time other archaeologists have advocated the claims of Chiblak 2 and of Atchi-kieui ; 3 but their theories were never widely accepted, and seem finally disproved by the investigations made lately upon these sites by Dr. Schliemann. The dispute now, therefore, lies between the rival pretensions of Bunarbashi and Hissarlik, which latter place is recognized by the common consent of most archaeologists of note as the Hellenic Ilium, the so-called " Ilium Novum." The inhabitants of Ilium maintained a tradition that the Trojan Ilios had not been destroyed completely by the Achaeans, and had never ceased to be inhabited. They even pointed out in their city many features which had survived the ruin of its famous predecessor. We cannot, however, allow much weight to local traditions of this character, which rest often upon very weak foundations — as in Italy to-day, many towns are abandoning their good old names, some of which are Hellenic, and older than the name of Rome itself, 4 to adopt, often upon quite insufficient grounds, those of Roman municipia. 1 Lechevalier: Description of 'the Plain of Troy. London, 1799. 2 Clarke. — Philippe Barker- Webb : Topographie de la Troade Ancienne et Moderne. Paris, 1844. 3 Ulrichs: Reiseti und Forschungeii in Griechenland, 1840. 4 Francois Lenormant : La Grande Grece. Paris, 1881. 144 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. It is established by Professor R. C. Jebb 1 that "in the belief of the ancient world " — except of the people of Ilium, who were influenced origi- nally, doubtless, by a natural inclination to magnify the importance of their native city, and except, too, of Alexander the Great and the Romans, whose acceptance of the tradition of the Ilians was uncritical, and actuated by motives of self-interest — Homeric Troy "had ceased to be inhabited when it was sacked by the Achaeans, and its site had ever afterwards remained desolate. This was not an accidental detail of the ancient tradition, but a capital and essential feature. If so much of Troy had been spared that the old inhabitants could continue to occupy it, the ten years' siege would, in the feeling of the old world, have ended with an abject anti-climax. The gods who had fought for the Achaeans would have been robbed of their due triumph over the gods who had fought for the Trojans." Thus the ancients did not believe that the Hellenic Ilium occupied the site of Troy. It is, however, entirely possible that the Hellenic Ilium, which was probably founded centuries after the destruction of Troy, — perhaps as late as the reign of Croesus, 2 — and long after all tradition of its exact site had disappeared, may have been established, unintentionally and unknown to its founders, upon the accursed spot. Criticism of the text of Homer affords arguments apparently strong in favor alike of Hissarlik 3 and of Bunarbashi. 4 The question must therefore be decided, if at all, by excavation. The great extent of Dr. Schliemann's work at Hissarlik is well known. Whatever bearing his discoveries may have upon the Iliad, the unearthing there of six (or more °) cities buried one beneath the other, is an archaeo- logical acquisition of the highest importance ; and the pottery and the metallic implements and ornaments found in the four lower strata of debris, form, with those of Thera, the earliest material that we have for the study of primitive Greek civilization. 6 At Bundrbashi the only archaeological investigation of any extent that has been made is that 1 Journal of Hellenic Studies, ii. I, — " Homeric and Hellenic Ilium." All who are interested in the subject should read this important article. Cf. Mr. W. J. Stillman's letter on the "Site of Homeric Troy" in the Nation of May 5th, 1SS1. 2 Professor Jebb : loc. cit. 3 Schliemann : Ilios; Professor A. H. Sayce : Journal of Hellenic Studies, i., " Notes from Journeys in the Troad and Lycia " ; Cmile Burnouf : Mhnoires sur VAntiquiti, " Troie" ; Virchow and others. * Nicolaides: Topography and Strategy of the Iliad ; W.J. Stillman ; Curtius and others. 6 Professor A. II. Sayce. 6 M. Collignon : V Archhlogie Grccque. Paris, 1881. Cf. the study on " Troie" in the work of M. Burnouf above referred to. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 145 of Herr von Hahn in 1864. 1 But his work was too incomplete to pro- duce results of importance. In September of last year three members of the Expedition of the Insti- tute at Assos — Messrs. Diller, Walker, and Lawton — made a summary examination of the Trojan Plain, with the view especially of determining the desirability of undertaking further investigations upon the Acropolis of BunSrbashi, or elsewhere in the neighborhood. The observations of the party and the conclusions arrived at by them have been embodied by Mr. Lawton in the following Report upon their excursion. — T. W. L.] During the autumn of 1881 a party was sent from Assos to the Trojan Plain, to examine the little Acropolis of the " Bali-dagh," above Bunarbashi village, and to report on the desirability of continuing the excavations of Von Hahn. The ruined classic city now called Chigri was visited on the way northward. This site is very little known, and the determination of its ancient name might perhaps aid in the solution of some of the problems of classical geography which await us in the Trojan Plain proper. A few notes on other famous localities and much-debated questions have been added. The Troad has been so seldom visited that it is hoped that the testimony of unprejudiced eye-witnesses will be of some interest. Little of what we tell is new ; but we have tried to see with our own eyes, and not to quote at second-hand. The ascent of Ida was made in October by a party on foot, who skirted the whole northern shore of the Gulf of Adramyttion, and, ascending from the town of the same name, returned through the Plain of Beiramitch. Most of the topographical notes are to be credited to Mr. Diller. The drawings, and the plan of the city walls on the Bali-dagh, with the ap- pended explanations, are the work of Mr. Walker. We are under great obligations to Mr. Frank Calvert for his hospitality and courtesy, and also for his most instructive guidance. Dr. Schliemann, with his usual kindness toward students, placed most freely at our disposal his rich library of works on the Troad. CHIGRI. Midway on the journey from the Gulf of Adramyttion to the Hellespont is the little Turkish town of Ine, built on the west branch of the Me'ndereh, just above its junction with the main stream. For several miles before In6 is reached the road runs northward 1 Von Hahn : Ansgrabungen auj ' der homerischen Pergamos. Leipzig, 1865. 10 146 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. with the river, crossing it at short intervals. In May there was a brisk stream, more than ankle deep and a dozen metres wide ; but in October the bed was quite dry. From this river road is seen prominently on the left the long ridge on which Chigri lies. At Ine there are tolerable khans and an excellent locanda, and the Greek inhabitants are intelligent and courteous. A visit to Chigri should be made from here in a single day, as the Turkish villages nearer the mountain can provide no tolerable accommodation. The ancient city now called Chigri, identified by Mr. Calvert with the classic Neandreia, is magnificently situated on a plateau more than five hundred metres above the sea. The walls extend along the ridge for over a kilometre and a half, and are to a great extent still standing in good condition. The courses of stone are some- what less regular in their lines than the best work at Assos, and occasionally lapse suddenly into polygonal. The thickness of the wall where we measured it was 3.20 metres. The general structure was the same as at Assos, each side of the wall being neatly faced with smoothed stones, while inside the stones were left rough. The interval between the inner and outer faces of the wall was filled up with small stones. The ground within the walls is approximately level, but with a considerable rise towards the northern end, as well as at the south end near the little Acropolis. Large rocks lie scattered over the surface, and the soil is as a rule very scanty. No hewn stone is seen, and in general little except the walls recalls the fact that a city once stood here. It would seem that the ground was never fully occupied (perhaps no very massive buildings were erected), that no later settlement came to accumulate debris above the Greek remains, and that the storms of twenty centuries have washed the hill almost bare of all traces of human habitation. Greek coins are often found here by the Turks of the village just below, who pasture their flocks within the walls. The Acropolis is merely a precipitous hillock, covered with great fragments of natural rock piled high upon each other in the wildest confusion. From this point we obtained our first good view of the Trojan Plain. Just west of this elevation is a great gate in the city wall. Its jambs are still standing, and in one of them is a neatly cut slot, in which the hinge of the gate may have rested. Between INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 147 this gateway and the Acropolis was merely a re-entering angle of the wall ; but on the other side the entrance was commanded by a large square tower. Looking outward from this gateway, the visitor sees above, on the left, a curious bit of wall on the side of the Acropolis, in which two large rocks have apparently been utilized in situ. Just outside the gate are half a dozen shallow graves, each lined with four rough slabs of stone. They were excavated by Mr. Cal- vert, who found in them pottery, which in his opinion forms a link between the art of the Lydian city of Hissarlik (the sixth, accord- ing to Dr. Schliemann's present numbering) and archaic Greek work. Most remarkable are the terra-cotta figures of an Egyptian or Assyrian type. Many of the vases are of a dark gray clay, and similar in form to those found at Hissarlik. Some scarabaei were found ; but these are supposed to be imitations. The fact that these graves were unrifled tends to strengthen the impression that this site was not occupied by later races. If we can form any judgment from the contrast between these little graves just outside the great gate of Chigri and the magnifi- cent street of tombs, crowded with exedrae and sarcophagi, in the corresponding position at Assos, we can infer that here there was never much display of wealth and splendor. FROM INE TO BUNARBASHI. We first saw the Mendereh, by general consent identified with the Homeric river Scamander, — ov 'SdvBov KaXeovcri 0eo\, avBpts Se 2Kd/j.av8pov, — in September, at a point an hour's walk north of Ine. It was run- ning with a swift clear stream, half a metre deep at most, and half a dozen metres in width, winding among the banks of sand that fill its broad winter bed. Fish three or four inches long were abundant. The plain is here about two kilometres wide, and was at the time of our visit covered with maize. Further north the wooded hills close in, and for several hours the road follows the curves of the river around their bases. At last the path seems to be crowded down into the sand at the very brink of the river ; and 148 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. after leading wearily around a few long sweeping curves, it abandons the valley and strikes over the hills towards the left. Presently a crest is reached, and suddenly the Plain of Troy appears, ex- tended at our feet. The minaret of Bunarbashi is already in sight below, and in descending towards it a glimpse is caught, above us on the right, of the tumuli upon the Bali-dagh. We are passing downward among the valonia oaks over the ground which Leche- valier covered with the lower town of his enormous Ilios. On the left, not far away, the regular cone of the Ujek Tepeh (supposed to be the tumulus erected by Caligula) is a prominent landmark, standing on a considerable elevation upon the western edge of the plain. Before us the Mendereh winds mile after mile through the level plain towards the distant strip of blue water, beyond which rise the islands of the Northern ^Egean. He who is fated to spend a night at Bunarbashi would perhaps do best to test the hospitality of " Zachariah's chiflik," the country house of a rich Christian Albanian on the edge of the village. In the strong enclosure, within which the stables and servants' quarters are built against the wall on three sides while the veranda of the house forms the fourth, he will find a reminiscence of Odysseus' palace, or of the enclosures throughout the Iliad, around which the lions are perpetually roaring and watching their chance to leap over the walls. He will be welcomed as Odysseus was, not by faithful old Argos, but by the dogs of Eumaios, — eijcnrivrjs S' 'OSuo^a iSov Kvues uXa/co/icopoi. 01 fj.ev KCKKriyovres iirthpafiov until the master appears, and rovs fiev ofioicXricras PI MENDERE H 1 ? - >V*S\ mm .' \ V ' fill n n m i J? ; N i j 1 o ■ V n * r • First tumulus second tuwuiu: INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 151 up the stream of the Mdndereh, towards which it presents a con- tinuation of the steep rock face of the Bali-dagh proper. The soil is very scanty, and large rocks project from it on all sides. Never- theless, Mr. Calvert has discovered and opened here an ancient cemetery. The bodies were placed in enormous earthen jars (ttlOoi), and these were laid on their sides in the interstices of the rocks and covered with earth. In these jars was found some pottery of the fifth and fourth centuries B. c. If, on the other hand, we turn northward upon passing the embank- ment, we shall go down a very regular slope, which brings us to the plain by the river side. Along the edge of this slope we see in suc- cession the three tumuli, and, lower down, many considerable heaps of stones. The tumuli are themselves mere heaps of stone, in two cases mingled with earth. Two of them have been opened with very meagre results. They do not exhibit the structure described in Iliad xxiii. 255-56, and exemplified in the Tomb of Tantalos near Smyrna, the Tomb of Andromache near Pergamon, and many similar structures, — Topvaxravro 8e ar/pa, 6epeikia re irpoftakovro dpcfn irvprfv. (idap 8e j(VTr]i> enl yalav i'^evav. 1 Close to the uppermost tumulus is a rudely circular excavation in the solid rock, which may have been an ancient quarry. Half way down to the second tumulus is another such quarry some twelve metres across. Close to the south side of the lowest tumulus is a circular wall, rising somewhat above the surface, and made of much larger stones than the two upon the plateau. This is perhaps the substructure of a tumulus which was never finished, or from which the earth has been quite washed off. In the stone heaps Mr. Calvert showed us that the line of a wall could occasionally be traced, though disguised by the toppling over of its upper portion. 2 These may therefore have been house-walls. Here, again, any hope of fruitful excavation is frustrated by the 1 " They rounded off the burial mound, and built a sustaining wall around it ; then they poured libations upon the banked-up earth." 2 Cf . Viollet-le-Duc, Histoire de V Habitation Hiimame, chap, xv., " Les Pelasges" and illustrations. Remains of similar circular house-foundations have been found elsewhere in Asia Minor, in Greece, in Italy, in Spain, etc. 152 ARCH^OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. rock of the hill, which appears in step-like layers all the way down the slope. The descent from the Acropolis straight towards the village of Bunarbashi is rolling and gradual. The village is about a kilometre and a half from the Acropolis. On these slopes we failed, like other recent visitors, to find pottery or any other trace of human occupation. The soil is tolerably fertile, and gravel occasionally appears. The haste with which Von Hahn worked may in part explain the fact that he found few coins or relics of any kind. Near the pro- jecting terrace was unearthed a headless terra-cotta figure six inches high, of fairly good workmanship. This gave him the impres- sion that a shrine or small temple may have stood here, as these statuettes were common votive offerings. By an ancient grave small bits of stucco were picked up, and also fragments of tiles of good workmanship which formed the covering of the grave. Two simple black-glazed lamps and fragments of a white pavement were found. Only sixteen coins came to light, of which four were identified as of Mytilene, three of Sigeion, two of Abydos, one each of Alexandria- Troas, Ilium, and Arcadia, all dating from the third or second century B.C. These were found "at no great depth." At the northeast of the square well-laid foundation-wall were found standing the stumps of two weather-worn unfluted columns, 40 centimetres in diameter, and respectively 120 and 90 centimetres high. A few clay waterpipes and tiles also came to light here. No inscription of any sort was discovered. If excavations are undertaken at Bunarbashi, it can hardly be with any hope of startling and brilliant discoveries. Von Hahn's experience has shown that the tangible return is likely to be small. Yet his work was only half done, and at some time ought to be completed. The popular interest in this region is a legitimate and desirable one. If an expedition should bring away nothing but a more accurate knowledge of this beautiful country, it would not have been sent in vain ; while a simple inscription giving a clue to the name or age of the ancient city would be of the highest interest and value. The walls ought to be laid bare both inside and out, and the original level on which they were built accurately deter- mined. The principal buildings which have already been discovered ought to be carefully cleared out. A series of pits should be sunk to determine with exactness the amount and character of the debris FIRST TUMULUS Acropolis INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 153 accumulated within the walls. This could be done at a moderate expense, and a satisfactory judgment could then be formed as to what might yet remain to be done. The earth could be disposed of easily by shooting it over the steep rocky cliffs, and there would be no danger of thus covering places which must afterwards be excavated. Tolerable quarters could probably be obtained in the neighboring village. An abundance of trained labor — thanks to Dr. Schliemann — can be secured in the vicinity. To sum up, then : The thorough excavation of the Acropolis of Bunarbashi might give interesting results. If it finally laid the ghost of Lechevalier's Troy it would help the cause of peace as well as that of classical geography; but it would probably be by no means a rich field in the ordinary sense, and we should hesitate to urge its claims while so many sites in Asia Minor and in Greece proper, whence rich archaeological returns are certain, are yet untouched by the spade. [Notes on the Map of the Acropolis of the Bali-Dagh. The notes in quotation marks are taken substantially from Von Hahn's Report. " Beginning at the northwest corner of the Acropolis outside the walls : "A is a quarry 7 metres deep and 15 metres in diameter. U B. The wall B is composed of blocks averaging .60 X .60 X > 2 o, well cut and joined, resting on a projecting ledge which advances .05 metre, and is .15 metre high. The wall is of a yellowish stone, probably vol- canic, radically different from the stone of the Bali-dagh and neighboring hills." The foot of this wall is covered with de"bris ; indeed the accumulation of de"bris is greater here than elsewhere, and makes it exceedingly difficult to trace any definite plan of the walls at this point. The exposed surfaces of the yellowish stone are disintegrating wherever found upon the Bali- dagh. " Between the wall B and the bastion D E is a passage C, 1.40 metre in width, with side walls of the stone of B. The size of the blocks varies ; largest, 55 X 1.90 metre. Two pilasters [of which nothing now remains] were found at the entrance, but no signs of a gate. " Above the sides of this passage appear three courses of projecting blocks. Each successive course approaches its corresponding opposite 154 ARCH&OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. course more nearly than the next below; in this way undoubtedly was formed the roof of the passage. The walls below these courses are i metre in vertical height. There is no trace of walls beyond the angle shown on the plan." This passage is now nearly filled with debris. We were unable to trace the walls around the angle, and the three roofing courses have entirely disappeared. Above were numerous rough walls recently built, possibly to protect the sheep and goats pasturing here. D, E -"These remains, of what was apparently a bastion, consist of irregular blocks of about .50 X 1 metre, with rough and projecting split- face surfaces. The joints are well cut. 1 he stone is from the quarry near at hand." These bastion walls are now about 2 metres in height ; the angles of the wall are carefully cut, so that a margin, perhaps 8 centimetres deep, is left smooth upon each face of the angle. The work is very similar to that upon the great gate at Assos. The wall G is of the same character and workmanship. F, G. " At the open space between E and G four rough steps led up to a wall E, of which, however, only three stones remain in place. Along the lower edge of these stones run three grooves with rounded edges." Remnants of the wall appear to extend behind G; but Von Hahn did not wish to destroy G in order to ascertain their exact disposition. The work and materials of B and .Fare similar; the walls, D, E, and G, Von Hahn thinks later additions. F and the four steps are now covered with earth. Von Hahn's ditch has filled but little. G is, from the bottom of the ditch, 3.36 metres in height. H. " The north wall, H, extends in a curved line towards the east, follow- ing the curve of the hill, varying in direction from 98 east at its juncture with the terrace G, to no° east at the angle of/. It is built of smaller blocks than D, E, and G, more oblong than square, with rough faces and excellent joints. It is apparently of a different period from the bastion D, E, and the terrace G" Only the upper course of this wall is now visible above the soil ; it appears never to have been excavated. /, K. " The wall now comes forward and inclines at an angle of nearly 45 , which inclination continues eastward. We could find no gate be- tween /and K, only fragments of possible walls." The inclination in the wall running east is much less than that of the return wall. The corner is built upon natural rock, which here comes to the surface. INVESTIGA TIONS A T ASSOS, 1881. \ 5 5 The disposition, thickness, strength, and inclination of the walls would seem to suggest that they formed the base of a tower guarding the gate L. The stones have joints well cut ; the courses follow the curve of the hill, which here descends rapidly. The walls upon each side of the gate L are in some places built upon the natural rock ; the joints are excellently cut, the beds being absolutely level. The passage into the city can be traced only a short distance, because of the de'bris of later light walls. The east side of the Acropolis is covered with a confused mass of walls, of the age and use of which Von Hahn formed no conjecture. He could trace the city wall but little farther. Doubtless the Acropolis limits varied at different times. All attempts to follow the south wall were vain, until the southwest corner was reached ; here a fine polygonal wall, largest stone 1 metre in height, was found. X, Y. Von Hahn thought this wall the oldest upon the hill. These walls incline at an angle of 6g°. Von Hahn considered them the foundation of the city wall proper. From here eastward, the inner or lining wall is the only enclosure of the Acropolis. At this point the mass of debris is very great. Von Hahn considered Z the finest wall found. It has four courses, each 4.5 metres high ; each course projects beyond the one above it ; the surface of the courses has an inclination of 85 . — C. Howard Walker.] THE BUNARBASHI RIVER. A short distance southwest of Bunarbashi are the springs called the " Forty Eyes." They are found in the old crystalline lime- stone near its junction with the tertiary limestone. In September — the driest month of the year — they were pouring out an abun- dance of cold, pure water, forming a swift and clear stream, along the banks of which grow thickets of rushes and willows. Turtles and frogs were abundant. This stream, slightly augmented at times by the surface drainage of the hills west of the Bali-dagh, forms a series of marshes along the western edge of the Trojan Plain, and what is left of it passes off at last through an arti- ficial channel cut for it between the heights of Sigeion and Ujek Tepeh, to Besika Bay. Its natural course was traced by Forch- hammer by the old channels, which are still filled when the river is at its highest. He shows that it formerly emptied into the present Mendereh just above Yeni Sher. It must have been a mere thread of connection between swamps, in a part of the plain unfit for mili- 156 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. tary operations or human dwellings ; and it does not appear to be alluded to at all in the Iliad. In this poor little rivulet Lechevalier recognized the fia8v&Lvr}ei<; SKa/iavS/aos, " deep-eddying Scamander." It is a valid objection to this, that it would make the whole twenty-first book of the Iliad, if we attempt to identify exactly the scenes of Homer, utterly meaningless. The fact is that the SKayuavopos is throughout Homer 6 -n-ora/xos, the great river of the plain, — that stream which, however its lower course may have changed, must have been for ages sweeping around the Bali-dagh on its way from Gargaros to the Hellespont. We will quote here one illustrative passage : — rcov e'dvea noXXa vecov uno koi Kkuridcov is irediov Trpu^eovro 2K.ap.dv8pioW avrap vko )(6iov crpfpdaXeov Kovu/3i^e ttoScov avrcov rf /cat "lttttcov. earav S ev Xei/iaw ^,Kapavhplu> avOepoevri fivpioi, oacra re (pvXXa Ka\ uuBea yiyverai copy. 1 THE PLAIN. The walk of fourteen kilometres from the Bali-dagh to Sigeion should be taken once by every student of the Iliad, though he may find it wearisome, and possibly monotonous. It will be heavy walking over the ploughed land and through the endless fields of maize ; but he will remember that under the very walls of the city Homer speaks of ireSioio irvpocpopoio, and Athene, striving with Ares, hurls at him, — \l6ov . . . Kfip-evov iv tt( S/w, peXava Tprjxvv re fieyav re, tov p uvhpes 7rpoT€poi dicrav eppevai ovpov dpovpr]?, 2 — 1 "The many tribes poured forth from ships and huts Into the Scamandrian plain. The earth Groaned fearfully beneath the feet of men and horses, And in the blooming Scamandrian mead they stood Countless as are the leaves and flowers of spring." Iliad ii. 464. 2 "A stone That lay upon the plain, black, rough, and huge, Which men of earlier days had set, to be The cornland's bound." Iliad xxi. 403. Plate V. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 157 from which it appears that the battle-field had long before been under cultivation. The pedestrian will come upon flocks of sheep and goats and herds of grazing kine. The bones of these animals were constantly found in the excavations made by Dr. Schliemann. On the night just mentioned, the Trojans drove out from the town /3o'as koX lv tjctto Tnokepov re pa)(rjv Te irfyov eV aKpoTurrjs Kopvcprjs ~2dpov vXrjecrcrrjs Qpr)'iiclr]s' 'ivffkv yap {(patvero Tvacra p.ev"l8r], (paLueTo be Hpiapoio noXis K.a.1 vrjes 'A^aiwi'. 2 Far away to the southeast we can descry the seat of his mightier brother, Zeus, — €7r aKpoTarr]? Kopv(fi?]s 7ToXvTrl8aKos ' l8r]S. These are the magnificent limits of Homer's " mythological back- ground," as Virchow well expresses it. Nearer at hand, we can trace the line of heights about the plain, and see the river descending from the far-away water-gap by the Bali-dagh. Opposite us stands Rhoiteion ; and stretching from it towards us is the low sandy shore where the Greek ships lay, — ■ Kai TrXrjcrav drruarjs rjiovos aropa p.axpov, oaov crvviepyaBov UKpai. s The sandy spit of Koum Kaleh runs out boldly, and looks like a recent encroachment of the land upon the sea. The hypothesis of Strabo, that in Homer's day a deep bay extended inland between 1 " You shall see if you will, and if you care for that, . . . ships sailing on the fishy Hellespont." Iliad ix. 359. 2 " The wide-ruling Earth-shaker kept no blind watch : For, wondering at the war and strife, he sat High on the topmost crest of woody Samothrake ; Thence all Ida was in sight, And Priam's city and the Achaians' ships." Iliad xiii. 10. 8 " And filled the broad mouth of all the coast Within the promontories' bounds." Iliad xiv. 35. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 159 the promontories, seems to be finally disposed of by the learned and searching essays of Mr. Calvert and Dr. Virchow. We are unable to see any allusion to such a bay in the Iliad. In the chief passage on the subject, from which we have just quoted, the poet says, — tlpvaro vijes 6'iv icp' dXos ttoXit)s. At the beginning of the Twenty-third Book he says vfjds re ko.1 'EAX^ctttovtoi' ucovto. True, the expression 0aXdcrp.aTa TTarpos, 1 — for we do not imagine that any scholar would venture to place the home of Nereus in this hypothetical " bay of the sea " ! Decisive evidence on this subject would be the discovery of some human monument of undoubted antiquity near the present shore- line, or of remains of such character as to mark clearly a different shore-line further inland. A search for the wall built by the Greeks in the Seventh Book has been suggested. Apart from the difficulty of deciding where to seek it, it should be remembered that it was constructed hastily, in a single day and on a sandy shore, — rjpos S' ovt tip ttu> tjojs, i'ri §' dpfpiXvKr] i>v£, TTjpos lip dp(pl irvprfv Kpiros eypero Xaos A^at-cov, bvcrero §' rjeXios, rerfXearo 8' i'pyov 'A^aicoi/, 2 its utter destruction being meanwhile promised by Zeus (vii. 459- 463), and afterwards described with more elaboration than its erec- 1 " Plunge into the broad bosom of the sea, To behold the Ancient of the deep, and your father's halls." 2 " And ere yet day was come, but twilight lingered, A chosen band of Achaians arose about the pyre. The sun set, and the Achaians' work was done." Iliad vii. 433-65. 160 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. tion (xii. 3-33). But, indeed, against all attempts to use the Iliad as a history or an itinerary, there is an earnest warning in the line we have made our motto. 1 In the text Thucydides read, the wall seems to have been built when the Greeks first landed ; for the sup- position that the historian wrote carelessly, with only a vague recol- lection of the Homeric account, is surely inadmissible. €7reiS?) 8k acfiLKo/xaOL jtw^rj iKparrjaav (o/yAov Se* to yap epv/xa tw (TTparoTriSio ovk But where then is Troy ? The distance from Ilios to the ships seems pretty accurately fixed by an abundance of accidental evi- dence. Dr. Schliemann has treated this question so exhaustively in his Ilios, that it is needless to pile up quotations upon it. Perhaps the clearest single passage is that where Idaios starts — probably from the agora before Priam's palace — at dawn, to carry his message to the ships, and is back again by sunrise, — Tjwdep d' 'iSaioj e/3r; Koihas cVl vrjas. The action waits until his return, — ot 8' ear elv ayopfj Tpcoes Kai Aapbavioves, 7rdvres oprjyepees, TroTi8typepoi, omror up 1 Th&oi 'iSaiof 6 8' lip rjXde, — 1 The chief arguments of Forchhammer, Virchow, Calvert, and Schliemann may briefly be summarized thus : — (1) By comparison with the effect of other rivers of greater power, like the Nile and Ganges, it appears that all the alluvium the Mendereh brings down could not build the coast-line out many furlongs in three thousand years. (2) The current of the Hellespont is strong enough to sweep away any deposit. [Beyond the line of shore of to-day; but not if there was a bay. In this case, the shore-line might have been built out till it met the current, when the process would cease. — W. J. S.] (3) The crumbling vertical banks of the Asmak mouths and lagoons show that the sea is rather encroaching than losing ground. (4) If there were any considerable permanent deposit of alluvium, the first result would have been the filling up of the great lagoons of the lower plain. (5) The forts at Dardanelles and Koum Kaleh were built respectively about four and two centuries ago ; but no growth of the shore has occurred at those points since their erection. They still front directly upon the sea. 2 "And when on their arrival they had won a battle, — as it is plain they had, else they could not have built a wall of defence for their ships." — Thuc. i. II. But INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. i6l and a few lines later, — 'Ht'Xio? pev fTTCLTa viov irpov eVi KaXXt/coXa)^. 2 There is one passage which seems to have been preserved from the oldest traditionary lore to aid us in our search for the site of Troy,— KTiaa-e 8e AapSavtrjv, eVei ov tvo> iXios Ipr) iv 7reSi'<» 7re7roXtcrro, 7roXiy peponatv avOpdncav, dXX' W vircopeLas cokcov TroXvTii8aKov "iBrjs- 3 1 " At dawn Idaios went to the hollow ships. The Trojans and Dardanians in the agora Sat all assembled, waiting for the coming Of Idaios ; and he came . . Then the sun was just beginning to shine on the fields." Iliad vii. 381-421. 2 " Sometimes standing by the moat outside the wall, Sometimes on the resounding promontories, she shouted afar. And Ares, on the other side, roared like a black hurricane, Shouting shrill orders to the Trojans, sometimes from the Acropolis, Sometimes running along the Simois to Kallikolone." Iliad xx. 49-53. 3 "He built Dardania ; for holy Ilios, The city of mortal men, was not yet founded in the plain, But they yet dwelt on the foot-hills of many-fountained Ida." Iliad xx. 216. [If we are to take the Iliad as our literal guide, might not this passage refer simply to the change which took place, — as in most Hellenic cities, — when the Acropolis was cleared of dwellings and left, except in case of necessity of war, sacred to the gods, and occupied only by their temples, while the city proper was built beneath in the plain ? — T. W. L.] II I 62 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Now the city on the Bali-dagh (Bunarbashi) could hardly be more suitably described, at least as it appears from the lower plain, than on " the foot-hills of Ida." It may, then, be Dardania ; but hardly the citadel of Troy. But where, then, shall we look for Ilios ? Not hopelessly over the flat expanse before us, for the city certainly had an Acro- polis high enough to overlook the plain, since from it the gods often watched the battle. There seems to be but one possible site. From the distant boundary line of hills a long ridge descends towards us, dividing the plain into two river valleys. This ridge ends, within a few miles of us, in a little eminence, of which the name is familiar enough, for around it has raged, if not the glorious struggle of Homer, at least the second Trojan war — of words ! It is in the plain, for the plain sweeps nearly around it. And yet we cannot resist a feeling of disappointment as we say, " What ! only that little brown hillock ? " HISSARLIK. We shall not attempt anything like a history or a description of Hissarlik, because Dr. Schliemann, in his exhaustive work Ilios, has already given to the world an account of the site and of his indefatigable labors upon it. These enormous trenches will for ages be a monument to Dr. Schliemann's energy and perseverance. We have found his descriptions of all portions of the Troad most accurate and complete, and his thorough familiarity with the Iliad leaves but scanty gleanings for those who follow him. The only rest for the eye amid the desolation of Hissarlik is in the steadfast line of Greek wall along the top of the trenches. Striking architectural fragments from the Hellenic or Roman Ilium are lying about in the trenches or in the heaps of de'bris. Every lover of Greek art must desire that search should be made for the ruins and the remaining sculptures of the Apollo temple, after find- ing by chance so magnificent a metope as that of Helios conduct- ing his four-horse chariot. To allow the earth to accumulate above the probable resting-place of its fellows, without searching for them, seems like almost too exclusive devotion to prehistoric discovery. Whatever opinions may be held about the earlier occupation of this site, it must be remembered that here, without doubt, stood for o i i E D Plate cxo ™j~" «-~" INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 163 many centuries the citadel of the Hellenic Ilium. Hither Xerxes and Alexander came to honor the memory of the heroes of Troy, and hither the Romans came to shower favors on the people from whom they were proud to claim descent. Such memories are surely honor enough for the little hill, whatever be the fate of its legendary claims. 1 We repeatedly saw Gargaros from Hissarlik, and it would doubtless be visible from the " town chief's " doorway if the later accumulations were entirely removed from the hill. We were not so fortunate as to get the sunset view of Athos, of which travellers often speak. THE SCAMANDER. From various passages in the Iliad it is clear that the Scamander and a lesser stream, the Simois, united between the city and the shore, and flowed into the Hellespont. The Scamander, moreover, passed very near the city walls. The Simois, no doubt, was usually dry, and the battle often raged in its dusty bed, — St/xdeu, oQl 7roXXa fioaypia Kai rpv(f>akeiai Kamreo-ov ev Kovijjai, Kai rjfiiOeav yevos av&pav." This is not now the condition of things. The marshes to the north- east of Hissarlik are indeed drained by a stream, the Doumbrek, which may do duty for the Simois, but it is met below the city only by an unimportant stagnant creek called the Kalifatli Asmak. The M^ndereh 1 The question, what belief the Greeks of historical times entertained in regard to the site of the Homeric city, is beset with great difficulties and con- tradictions. No reader of Dr. Schliemann's book can rest fully satisfied with his treatment of the deliberate conclusion of Strabo, the striking rhetorical ex- pression of Lycurgus, and the ode of Horace, all of whom agree in this state- ment at least, that Priam's city was left utterly desolate, and never occupied again. A full and impartial discussion of this question will be found in Pro- fessor Jebb's article on the "Homeric and Hellenic Ilium" in the Journal of Hellenic Studies for April, 1881. 2 " The Simois, where many shields and helmets Fell in the dust: and the iace of godlike men." Iliad xii. 22. The beautiful reminiscence of these lines in Virgil reads as if his text were different : — "ubi tot Simois conrepta sub undis Scuta virum galeasque et fortia corpora volvit." I 64 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. is far away on the other side of the plain. To this difficulty the fol- lowing solution has been offered : The Mendereh has within a com- paratively short time changed its bed, whereas in Homer's day it flowed where the Kalifatli Asmak now is, and having received the tribute of the Doumbrek near the present village of Koum Kioi (" Sandville "), it emptied into the Hellespont, close to the promontory of Rhoiteion, through the channel known as the In Tepeh Asmak. This explanation would certainly remove many difficulties. It would make just such a triangular battlefield on the north side of the town as is described by Homer. It would account, too, for the ford of the Scamander on the way from the ships to the town, often mentioned by the poet (xiv. 434, xxi. 2, xxiv. 693 k. t. A..). It is most natural that a student at a distance, especially one fa- miliar only with Occidental rivers, should be surprised when he reads of so bold an alteration in the great feature of the plain ; and he can- not but suspect that this is a hypothesis invented to remedy some fatal discrepancy between the alleged site and the poet's description. One piece of evidence, or at least of illustration, especially satisfac- tory perhaps to those who cannot themselves make a careful study of the ground, has not yet, to our knowledge, been brought into the discussion. The next important river of the peninsula south of the Mendereh is the Touzla, which passes in sight of Assos, and is generally identified with the "fair-flowing Satnioeis " (Iliad vi. 34, xiv. 445, xxi. 87, Strabo, p. 605). Like the Mendereh, it breaks from the mountains some miles above its mouth, and flows to the sea through a level and fertile plain. This plain shows no trace of any change in the course of the stream, save one. Several hundred metres away from the present river bed are yet standing, almost intact, the arches of the Roman bridge. Within two thousand years the river has not only found a new course, but has completely effaced (doubtless by the alluvium deposited during inundations) all traces of the old channel. The chief proofs advanced, that the great river of the Trojan Plain once flowed through the channel now marked by the Asmaks, are these. First, the great bar opposite the mouth of the In Tepeh As- mak, clearly shown by the three-fathom line on the Admiralty chart. Second, the fact that pits sunk along the channels of these creeks reveal syenitic sand and gravel, whereas the streams which now flow there deposit only black mud. This sand has apparently been brought INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 165 down by the river from a great mass of syenitic rock, now in an ad- vanced stage of disintegration, which is traversed by the Mendereh above Evjilar. A similar formation in the north-eastern portion of the Chigri-dagh is also drained by tributaries of the M6ndereh. Thirdly, along the course of the Kalifatlf Asmak many traces still exist of a great river bed which the present stream (even when augmented as it is in the winter by the overflow from the Mendereh) could not possibly have formed. The expressive Greek word ^et/xappov? (winter-running) cannot adequately be rendered. During much of the year nearly or quite dry, in the rainy season these streams flood the valleys through which they pass, and consequently in level plains they never form a deep, well-settled bed, and a slight cause may open a new channel. We have described the Mendereh just north of Ine\ Next day at Bunarbashi we were amazed to find the bed dry. On striking the limestone the stream had evidently sunk into the sand. A few miles below were pools haunted by turtles and frogs ; but no running stream was visible. Yet Von Hahn measured the depth of the winter current, from brush deposited on the sides of the Bali-dagh, and found it reached fourteen metres. When we returned south in October the first heavy rains had fallen, and all the way up to Ine' the river was flowing with a swift eddying current. The yellowish brown water was, even at the best fords, already above our horses' knees. It was less difficult to realize something of that imperious torrent into which the men of Ilios cast bulls and steeds, as sacrifices to the river-god. In the imaginative Twenty-first Book we have allusions to this same condition of things in ancient times. In the floods with which Xanthus nearly overwhelms Achilles, and the subsequent drying up of the stream by the fires of Hephaestus, we can hardly fail to see a reminis- cence, even though an unconscious one, of these furious winter floods and summer droughts. 1 1 For a thorough study of the topography of the Troad, see Dr. Virchow's Beitrage zur Landesktmde der Troas ; cf. Schliemann's Ilios; and for further details upon the elevation above the sea of various localities, and upon Mount Ida, see his Reise in der Troas im Mai 1S81. Leipzig, 1881. III. THE GEOLOGY OF ASSOS. By J. S. DILLER. THE topographical isolation of the hill at Assos is apparent from many points of view in the southern part of the Troad, and its natural advantages as the site of an ancient fortified city were very great. Its form may be described, in a general way, as a truncated cone, the base of which at the eastern and western sides is drawn out into comparatively unimportant ridges. Upon the south- ern side it descends very abruptly by several terraces and high cliffs to the sea. To the northward the slope is more gentle to the river, which is only 1.5 kilometre from the coast. The river at this point has an elevation of 100 metres above the sea-level. The Acropolis of Assos is the highest point south of the Touzla (Satni- oeis) river between, Coslou-dagh 7 kilometres to the eastward, and the great plateau about the same distance in the opposite direction. According to the measurements of the present expedition it rises 234 metres above the sea. The low truncated conical form and the bold cliffs upon the seaward slope are best seen from the west, the point from which the view (Plate 6) was taken. Although the rocks in the vicinity of Assos are of great variety, yet, with the exception of a conglomerate composed chiefly of marl and fragments of limestone, they are all trachytes. They are, however, not all of the same age, nor were they extruded in the same manner. According to differences in age the various modifi- cations may be grouped under three principal trachytes, which in general appearance are quite distinct from one another. For con- venience of description these trachytes will be named, beginning with the oldest, the first, second, and third respectively. Besides the tertiary conglomerate and the three trachytes already men- tioned, there is also a volcanic conglomerate having a very irregular distribution, and composed of trachytic fragments. In respect to Ill III J. •" f-C J- KJ (rf CD t! £ CO — - _C -" v o L, bi iq ^- is '[$ u irtn INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 167 age it stands between the first and second trachytes. The lime- stone conglomerate to which reference has been made is older than the third trachyte and younger than the second, upon which it rests. These rocks, beginning with the oldest, will be described in the order of their occurrence. FIRST TRACHYTE. This trachyte is one of the most abundant in the immediate vicinity of Assos, and yet from the fact that it leaves few fragments upon the surface it appears to be quite rare as compared with that which forms the Acropolis. It is exposed in two large areas, one south and the other northwest of the Acropolis, connected by a narrow band extending across the hill in a southeasterly direction. The prevailing color of this trachyte is purple, but it is frequently modified so as to become yellowish or reddish purple, or even brick red. In the compact and uniform ground-mass are imbedded nu- merous minute feldspars never exceeding two millimetres in length, and generally not half that size. They are either opaque white or glassy, and never so prominent as to greatly modify the color of the rock. Some of the feldspars are distinctly striated, but the ma- jority of them are too small to determine with an ordinary lens. There are small quantities of variously colored accessory minerals scattered in the ground-mass, and others which are frequently found in cavities or crevices. Among the latter hyalite is the most common, occurring in beautiful botryoidal forms. Of all the trachytes in this region no other preserves so well the peculiarities of its surface at the time of eruption. The upper portion is frequently very cellular and ropy, like that of modern lava. The cells are of all forms and sizes, but are generally elon- gated in such a way as to show the direction of motion when the trachyte was extruded. They are sometimes drawn out in large curves, indicating the manner in which the molten mass rolled down the steep slope. A yellowish-colored substance lines many of the cells, and they decrease in size and number downwards to a distance of several feet from the surface, where the trachyte becomes very dense. The direction of motion is frequently indicated also by a stream-like arrangement of the porphyritic crystals of feldspar. Oc- casionally there are imperfectly developed joint planes parallel to 1 68 ARCH&OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. this fluidal structure, and more frequently there is an irregular columnar structure at right angles to the slope. The elongated cells and other marks which indicate the former fluidity of the first trachyte occur in all parts of the area in which this rock is exposed, and it is important to notice that these lines of fluidal structure point to the Acropolis as a common source from which the trachyte has proceeded. The form of the hill of Assos, taken in connection with the facts we have just noticed, together with the composition and distribution of the volcanic conglomerate to be hereafter considered, make it evident that the site of Assos was once the crater of an ancient volcano, from which proceeded most of the volcanic rocks in its immediate vicinity. It is probable that there are other ancient volcanic craters in the Southern Troad, but as far as the explorations of the present expedition have extended, the eruptions, excepting those at Assos, have been through' large fissures. VOLCANIC CONGLOMERATE. The term conglomerate cannot be properly applied to all of the rocks considered under this head, for some of them are fine ashes the separate particles of which cannot be perceived by the unaided eye. However, the rocks are with few exceptions well-defined conglomerate, and the exceptions are so intimately associated with the conglomerate both in origin and distribution, that all must be considered under one head. The conglomerate is one of the most varied and by far the most irregularly distributed formation in the vicinity of Assos. It occurs chiefly upon the seaward slope in small areas varying greatly in shape, and rests directly upon the irregular surface of the first trachyte. The small patches are simply the remains of a once more or less continuous sheet of fragmental material filling the depressions in the old trachyte and hanging upon the steep slopes of the hill. In its most common constitution the conglomerate consists of numerous fragments of trachyte of various sizes up to half a metre in diameter. The light-colored groundmass which generally fills the interstices is sometimes nearly wanting ; in that case the rock INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 169 consists of reddish and yellowish cinders thrown together entirely unarranged, in the manner in which they accumulate about the cra- ters of active volcanoes. The fragments are usually light-colored, distorted and fitted into one another as if they had fallen and fused together when in a somewhat plastic state. The scoriaceous variety of the conglomerate is common in the immediate vicinity of Assos, and although the conglomerate frequently occurs in other parts of the Troad, this variety seldom appears. The fine material which constitutes the groundmass is generally ashes, and varies greatly in amount, from the merest trace in the conglomerate of cinders to a rock in which it is the sole constituent. The finest ashy materials are usually quite bright colored, either red or brown, and contain occasionally a few scattered fragments of black scoria. Sometimes, although completely uniform in color, it is made up entirely of small light scoriaceous fragments like some of that at Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh, and about the recently extinct volcanic crater near Ro- landseck, on the Rhine. The fragments in the conglomerate about the hill of Assos are wholly trachytic, and in all cases where it has been possible to identify them they have belonged to the first trachyte. Several doubtful fragments of other rocks have been found in the conglomerate, but from the fact that they cannot be identified they are relatively unimportant. Upon the seaward slope near the port is a small area of conglom- erate, in the light-colored groundmass of which are imbedded numerous very light, small, cellular, fibrous white fragments. This rock, although rare at Assos, is of common occurrence among the stratified deposits of the surrounding country. It varies somewhat in color, and considerably in the size of its fragments, but is always light and porous, closely resembling some of the tufa of the Brohlthal, in Germany. The material of the conglomerate is not rounded and water worn, but has been thrown together in a manner entirely unlike the arrangement such materials would assume under the influence of water. That the conglomerate is composed of fragments of the first trachyte and rests directly upon it cannot be doubted, for many exposures in the cliffs by the sea, where the conglomerate is most fully developed, show the relation of the two formations very plainly. 170 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The lower part of the conglomerate, where it rests upon the cel- lular trachyte, is coarse, and composed wholly of cinders. The amount of fine ashy materials increases in the upper part of the formation until the large fragments entirely disappear, and the rock is composed wholly of fine ashes. There are several excellent exposures, which, besides showing the conglomerate resting upon the first trachyte, exhibit small masses of the latter overlying the former. One of these outcrops upon the seaward slope is represented in the adjoining figure (Fig. 1). The First Trachyte. Volcanic Conglomerate First Trachyte. portions of trachyte which overlie the coarse conglomerate are always small, — very small indeed, as compared with the underlying mass. It is evident from the relation of the conglomerate to the first trachyte that the eruption of the bulk of the latter took place from the old crater beneath the Acropolis before the formation of the conglomerate ; and it is equally apparent, from the composition and distribution of the conglomerate, that it is of volcanic origin, and was thrown out from the same crater. The ejection of the conglom- erate, doubtless, followed closely the extrusion of the trachyte, in fact even before the flowing out of the trachyte had completely ceased. Moreover, in the earliest part of the eruption of the frag- ments, a very coarse material was ejected, and finally the volcanic energy spent itself in showers of ashes. It seems probable that at the time of the eruption of the conglomerate the crater was about as high above the sea level as at present, that is about two hundred metres, for the conglomerate shows no trace of the arrangement it would have assumed under the influence of water. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 171 SECOND TRACHYTE. Of all the rocks found in this vicinity there are none of more general interest than the one we are now about to consider. It is the celebrated " Sarcophagus Stone " of Assos, and was used not only for the city walls, but also for nearly all the important build- ings within them. The temple, with its many sculptured parts, was built of it upon a bold acropolis of the same rock. The second trachyte is the most abundant one occurring in the immediate vicin- ity of Assos, although it is perhaps not the most abundant trachyte in the Troad as a whole. It forms the Acropolis proper, extending to the river upon the north and northeast, and to the sea upon the southeast. Westward from the Acropolis is a large area extending from the river to the sea, but separated from the Acropolis by a nar- row band of the first trachyte and conglomerate. Besides the two large areas already referred to, there is a small one upon the cliffs by the port, where the rock is much fractured and generally of a yellowish or greenish color. The second trachyte is commonly of a gray, light gray, or purplish gray color, and has prominent porphyritic crystals of feldspar, which sometimes attain a length of eight millimetres, but usually only half that size. Some of the large porphyritic crystals are opaque white, but most of them are clear and glassy, and of the latter a very few appear to be striated. Among the larger crystals are numberless small white crystals of feldspar, varying from 1 to 1.5 millimetre in length, which, notwithstanding the presence of other minerals, gives the prevailing light color to the rock. The groundmass, which is usually only a small portion of the whole, is gray or purplish gray; it has apparently a fine granular porous structure, and the porphyritic crystals are so numerous and irregular that the fracture of the rock is uneven. The whole aspect of the formation is quite granitic, and this resemblance is increased by its containing a vari- able quantity of small crystals of mica and other iron-bearing min- erals, the alteration of which sometimes produces small pits and stains. The second trachyte has two well-developed sets of joint planes, which have determined the development of the peculiar topographi- 172 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. cal features of the Acropolis. One set of planes is for the most part approximately horizontal, and the other nearly vertical. The former divides the rock into distinct layers, and thus gives rise to the small terraces and steps so common about the upper portion of the Acropolis. The layers into which the formation is sepa- rated vary in thickness from less than ten centimetres to several metres, and assume the appearance of distinctly bedded rocks of sedimentary origin. There seems to be some connection between this peculiar jointing and a certain concealed structure in the mate- rial. At some places, where the formation is massive and a few joints are opened, there are upon the weathered surface elevations and depressions closely resembling those developed in a weathered sandstone composed of thin layers of different degrees of durability. It is evident, also, at several localities that the longer axes of the larger feldspar crystals are not only approximately parallel to one another, but also to the joint planes. Although this jointing is seldom exactly in a horizontal plane, excepting about the southwestern portion of the Acropolis, yet the deflection is never great, and it is interesting to notice that in gen- eral the deflection is such as to cause the layers to slope away from the Acropolis. Although the parallel arrangement of the crystals is not a very common or prominent character, and the quaquaver- sal dip of the layers not without exceptions, yet they are suffi- ciently marked to suggest some connection between the jointing and the direction of motion of the trachytic lava at the time of its eruption. Besides the joint planes already referred to, there is another set nearly vertical. Where these joints are few, they divide the rock into large blocks ; but where abundant, irregular columns are pro- duced. The columnar structure is best developed in the bold cliffs of the Acropolis, facing the sea, but there is no approximation to the regular columnar structure so prominent in the trachyte of Wolkenberg, in the Seven Mountains. The cliffs are well shown in the view of the Acropolis from the west, Plate 6. The jointing results at many places in strewing the surface with innumerable massive boulders. In the region west, north, and northeast of the Acropolis, where the second trachyte occupies large areas, the surface is completely covered with large fragments and ledges overgrown with dwarf oaks. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 173 Occasionally, where this trachyte is in contact with older rocks, instead of separating into large blocks, as -is usually the case, it breaks into many small angular fragments, and appears like a mass of breccia. Several small areas of this formation are very decep- tive, on account of the fact that where considerable decomposition has taken place along the many small fractures, the rock closely resembles a conglomerate with subangular pebbles. Although this trachyte is for the most part considerably altered, it generally preserves its appearance of durability. In rare in- stances, however, it is altered almost to a white micaceous clay, and at other times disintegrates, forming a grayish micaceous sand. The relation of the second trachyte to the first is made evident by a number of facts. It contains distinct fragments of the first trachyte, which must have been picked up by the second at the time of its eruption. These pieces are not numerous, but yet they are of such a character as to leave no doubt concerning their identity and signification. Small portions of other rocks are quite frequently enveloped by the second trachyte, especially near its junction with older formations, and some of these fragments are very inter- esting. It is evident that by the erosion of the second trachyte a consid- erable portion of the first trachyte has been brought to the surface. Southwest of the Acropolis is a narrow band of the first trachyte extending northwest across the hill, and separating the two large areas of the second trachyte. This belt lies upon a steep slope directly beneath the high cliffs of the Acropolis, and there is abun- dant reason in the structure and topographical relations for believ- ing that the trachyte of the Acropolis was once connected with that of the large area to the westward. Beneath the cliffs of second trachyte, a short distance southwest of the Acropolis, a long tongue of the first trachyte extends far to the northwest, and there can be no doubt that this area also has been exposed by the wearing away of the overlying formation. That the second trachyte is of more recent eruption than the first is made evident, also, by their relation to the volcanic conglomerate. At the western base of the Acropolis, the trachyte of which it is com- posed rests directly upon the ashes associated with the volcanic con- glomerate. Near the port the small mass of second trachyte plainly 174 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. overlies the coarse conglomerate, composed wholly of fragments of the first trachyte. This enables us to understand why the conglom- erate is associated with the first trachyte only ; it reposes upon the first trachyte, and is covered by the second. It is evident, therefore, notwithstanding the fact that the line of contact between the first and second trachytes is not exposed, that their relative age is fully established by other phenomena. It is perhaps well to notice here that in the Troad the lines of contact between two eruptive rocks, or between one which is eruptive and another of sedimentary origin, are rarely exposed. They are always lines of weakness, and the adjoining rocks are so disintegrated as to afford little evidence concerning their relative age. It is different, however, when the rocks are metamorphosed, for then the lines of contact frequently become durable. The second trachyte is on the whole uniform, and beyond an occasional streamlike arrangement of the crystals does not show a prominent fluidal structure. Its topographical relations, however, leave no doubt as to the point from which it proceeded. It slopes away in all directions from the Acropolis, and the imperfect colum- nar structure has a corresponding inclination. The thickness of this trachyte varies greatly, no doubt, but in some places upon the slope north of the Acropolis it certainly reaches thirty metres. In the Acropolis the trachyte rises about twenty metres above the top of the old crater from which the first trachyte was extruded. From the fact that the second trachyte in the vicinity of Assos proceeded from the Acropolis, and that the Acropolis, itself com- posed of it, rests directly upon the point from which the first and second trachytes must have issued, it appears that when the eruption of the second trachyte ended the crater was completely closed, and since then the volcano has been extinct. A somewhat similar example may be seen at Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh. That there was not a great interval between the eruption of the first and second trachytes is made evident by the fact that much of the scoria upon the surface of the flow was not removed from a steep slope by erosion before the extrusion of the second trachyte occurred. The closing of the vent by the second trachyte enables us to understand why it was not succeeded, as was the first, by a volcanic conglomerate. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 175 The second trachyte was the only one used for making sarcophagi, or having any connection whatever with the burial of bodies at Assos. It seems most probable, therefore, that it was the stone known in antiquity as the "Lapis Assius," or " Sarcophagus Stone." It was reputed to be a good medicine for certain diseases, and to have the peculiar property of consuming within forty days the bodies buried in it. It is impossible to conceive how it came to be con- sidered as having such wonderful properties. It has been supposed that the trachyte, being an eruptive rock, was in those ancient days still highly heated. But it is evident from the rocks associated with the second trachyte that since its eruption it must have been long beneath the sea, and subsequently long exposed above the sea before the region was inhabited by man, so that there is no probability whatever that the sarcophagus stone was still hot within the historical period. The geological changes which have taken place upon the hill of Assos since the founding of the Greek city, nearly 3,000 years ago, are entirely inappreciable when compared with the great changes which took place in the long period between the eruption of the second trachyte and the habita- tion of the site by man. The second trachyte is an excellent building stone, and nearly all the important edifices within the city were constructed of it. It is not only very durable, but even when altered it preserves its original shape with remarkable distinctness. Unlike many other rocks, it rarely crumbles upon the surface, and yet its coarseness unfits it for the sculpturing of delicate forms. Its warm gray color compares favorably with the dull-colored sandstones so commonly used for buildings in America. The only other stones used at Assos for building besides marble were a few blocks of conglomerate in the theatre and of the first trachyte for wall filling. MIDDLE TERTIARY. A short distance east of the Acropolis is a small exposure of rocks, which in the immediate vicinity of Assos are very poorly represented. Elsewhere along the southern coast of the Troad they are extensively developed, and will be more fully considered in the second part of this Report. 176 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The formation is chiefly an incoherent conglomerate, consisting for the most part of light-colored fragments of limestone. These are imbedded with more or less of the first trachyte in a whitish marly groundmass, which is sometimes free from pebbles, and appears like a soft sandstone. Some of the calcareous fragments are very hard and heavy; most of them, including a few pebbles from metamorphic rocks, are subangular, varying in size up to twenty centimetres in diameter. The thickness of the whole mass is not over five metres, and it is about 225 metres above the sea level. The best exposures are at the east end of the Turkish cemetery, where the formation appears to lie upon the second trachyte. These deposits contain no good evidence of their age, but they are closely connected with others further eastward, the relations of which to the other rocks are easily determined. The conglomerate at the cemetery is not distinctly stratified, but the same formation near by is plainly arranged in strata. We may therefore feel sure that the deposit was made under the influence of water. According to the researches of Tchihatcheff, the sedimentary de- posits, a part of which we are considering, were placed provisionally in the middle tertiary, and thought to be of fresh-water origin. But few fossils have been found in this formation, yet it is hoped that those secured by the present Expedition, in connection with some already collected by others, may be sufficient to determine the age of the formation more definitely. It is the upper portion of the middle tertiary that rests upon the second trachyte at the Turkish cemetery ; and it appears probable, from facts which will be here- after mentioned, that the first and second trachytes were extra- vasated shortly before the close of the middle tertiary period. The disturbance at the time of the eruption of these trachytes did not result in unconformability between the different members of the formation. It was at the close of the period in which the great masses of the third trachyte were extruded, that the whole of the Southern Troad was raised above the sea. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 177 THIRD TRACHYTE. The third trachyte, which appears to be the prevailing rock in the southern part of the Troad, is represented in the immediate vicinity of Assos by an area southeast of the Acropolis so small that it scarcely appears upon the map. It is usually dense, and of a reddish or purplish-brown color. The groundmass, as in the first trachyte, forms the greater portion of the rock. In it are imbedded numerous small crystals of feld- spar, many of which are glassy, while others are opaque white and irregular in outline. A few small flakes of mica are scattered throughout the rock, and apparently also a few grains of quartz. The formation is frequently cellular, but not because of the expan- sion of gases, as in the first trachyte. The cells are elongated and irregular in outline, having rough surfaces, as if produced either by the decomposition of minerals or by the flowing of the mass at the time of its extrusion. These cavities are frequently of considerable size, especially where the trachyte contains many fragments arranged parallel to a well-marked fluidal structure. Associated with this trachyte is a very interesting glassy rock, containing more or less of a black substance quite like obsidian in its general aspect, but dull, softer, and breaking easily into small pieces. Occasionally the formation is almost wholly composed of this vitreous material, con- taining opaque white crystals arranged in parallel lines. The relation of the second and third trachytes is not so readily determined as that of the first and second. The superposition of the third trachyte upon the second was clearly seen at a locality Fig. 2. I. --£= I. Third Trachyte. II. Second Trachyte. about one kilometre east of Assos. At this place the fluidal struc- ture of the third trachyte is well developed. The annexed figure 12 178 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE.- (Fig. 2) illustrates what may be seen in the locality mentioned. The fluidal structure in the third trachyte is represented by the short lines. This rock appears to have been once continuous across the depression in which the second trachyte is exposed. The line of contact could not be found even after several hours' digging in the disintegrated rocks. The relation of the two trachytes to each other is, however, more certainly indicated by their relation to the middle tertiary deposits of the Southern Troad. The second trachyte, as already noted, is older than the latter portion of the middle tertiary formation, while on the other hand, a short distance east of Assos, the third trachyte distinctly overlies the same deposits, and must, consequently, be of more recent origin. This trachyte, when developed so as to influence the topography, gives rise to surface features very different from those of the other trachytes. Looking east from Assos, several low, rather irregular ridges will be seen extending in an easterly and westerly direction. In form these ridges closely resemble the trap ridges of the Con- necticut Valley, being very steep, with cliffs facing the sea, while to the northward the slopes are gentle. These ridges are formed of the third trachyte, which, like the trap rock of the Connecticut Valley, has been extruded through great fissures between the strata. ALLUVIUM. The Touzla River, north of Assos, flows in an alluvial plain, about five kilometres in length by two kilometres in greatest breadth. The soil is fertile, and generally cultivated. By the river bank the brownish sandy loam extends to a depth of one metre and a half, and rests upon a bed of gravel on a level with the present bed of the river. The loam contains numerous very small Gastero- pod shells, and is exposed upon the surface of the greater portion of the plain. The latter does not rise more than about two metres above the present bed of the Touzla. SUMMARY. In summarizing what is known of the geology of Assos and its vicinity, it may be stated that, as compared with some portions INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 179 of the Troad, the formations are quite recent. It seems probable from facts which will be mentioned hereafter that the oldest rocks found at Assos were formed towards the close of the middle tertiary period. The hill of Assos was then a volcano. From its crater issued the first trachyte upon the irregular scoriaceous surface, on which succeeding showers of cinders and ashes were deposited. It seems probable from the general appearance of the conglomerate and the absence of stratification, that the volcano was sub-aerial, rising at least to a height of two hundred metres above the sea level. The eruption of the first trachyte and conglomerate was followed after a comparatively short interval by another eruption, which brought to the surface the second trachyte and completely closed the crater. There appears to have been no great eruption of gases connected with the extrusion of the second trachyte ; since this was brought to the surface the volcano at Assos has been inactive, although later eruptions have occurred in the neighborhood. During the latter part of the middle tertiary period the extinct volcano was almost, if not altogether, submerged. At the close of the period an upheaval took place by which the southern part of the Troad was raised perhaps to its present elevation. Atmospheric agents have since been active in tearing down the formations, and the topographical features resulting from the ero- sion are those previously determined by the peculiar structure of the rocks. By a long process the deep valley, the plain of the river, the high cliffs, the terraces and the steep slopes of the hill were formed, until finally the present surface was developed and the foundations of Assos were laid. IV. NOTES UPON THE GEOLOGY OF THE TROAD. By J. S. DILLER. AMONG the numerous works written upon the Troad, there are but few which consider its geology. Of these, the oldest is that by P. Barker Webb, first published in the Bibliotheca Italiana, but better known in its French translation as Topographie de la Troade issued in 1844. The most important work is that of Tchihatcheff, who travelled through the Troad in 1847 ar >d I849, an d a few years later pub- lished a series of volumes upon Asia Minor. Four of this series are devoted exclusively to geology and palaeontology. Among the more recent contributions is Virchow's Beitrdge zur Landeskunde dcr Troas, an excellent paper upon the Anterior Troad, especially upon the Plain of Troy. 1 Unfortunately the present Report is written under such circum- stances that the writer is unable to consult the geological literature upon the Troad, or to compare the collections of rocks and fossils made by the Expedition with those already identified. The following notes are based upon observations made in ex- cursions from Behram (Assos). All the region embraced within a four hours' journey from that place has been quite thoroughly explored, but elsewhere the boundaries of the various formations have not been fully determined. The general map of the Troad, as well as the geological map of the same region, both of which are in course of preparation, are not yet ready for publication. In these notes reference will be made to Mr. Clarke's sketch map of ^Eolic Mysia and Lesbos, Plate 4*. The rocks of the Troad are of many varieties, and their relations so complicated that the distribution of them is very irregular, and 1 See references to these works in the preceding Report, pp. 8, 14. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. igi requires for its determination a great amount of labor. Among the formations of sedimentary origin are those which have been highly metamorphosed, as well as unaltered rocks in various stages of dis- location, and others also which have suffered no change whatever since their deposition. The eruptive rocks are of yet greater variety, embracing serpen- tines, basalts, trachytes, granites, and also conglomerates of volcanic origin. Before the relations of these formations can be conven- iently described, it will be necessary to consider a few of the leading features in the topography of the Troad. TOPOGRAPHY OF THE TROAD. The rivers of the Troad may be considered in four groups. The first embraces the M^ndereh (Scamander) and all its ramifica- tions ; the second includes the small rivers which carry the water from the western slope into the ^Egean ; the third, or Touzla group, drains a long, narrow area south of the Mendereh ; and the fourth conveys the water of the southern slope into the Gulf of Adramyttion. Of these groups, that of the Mdndereh is the largest and by far the most important. It drains the whole of the central part of the Troad, and gathers nearly as much water as all the other rivers combined. As it touches one side of all the divides which deter- mine the other groups, its gathering ground has a more or less circular outline, and is surrounded upon all sides by rugged moun- tains, through which the river breaks its way to reach the sea. This topographical arrangement naturally divides the river basin into two parts : a great central portion, including the large area washed by the principal tributaries of the Mendereh, and a portion along the coast, separated from the other by the mountains through which the river has cut its way towards the Hellespont. Each part is distinct from the other, and contains a great plain. The beautiful Plain of Troy, having a length of fourteen kilometres and a width varying from three to five kilometres, extends from Koum Kaleh, near the site of ancient Sigeion, to the mouth of the Thymbrios. Between the Trojan Plain and Eanedeh, which occupies the site of Scamandria, the river passes through a deep gorge cut in the meta- I 82 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. morphic rocks. This defile is picturesque, especially in the portion nearest Bunarbashi, where its steep sides have many cliffs of gray crystalline limestone. Towards Eanedeh the lower and more gently sloping hills are composed of serpentine and trachyte. From several kilometres below Eanedeh to beyond Eeiramitch, near Curshunlou-tepeh, the site of Kebrene, the valley of the Men- dereh has an extensive (Samonian) plain. It is long, comparatively narrow, and bordered, especially upon the south, by low undulating hills, which from a distance appear to be a part of the plain itself. An excellent view of this region, and in fact of the whole Troad, may be obtained from Chigri-dagh, upon the summit of which are the extensive ruins of Xeandreia. From all sides of this large plain the tributary streams enter the Mendereh. The largest of these flows in from the south at Eanedeh and is separated from the Touzla by a low divide, upon the southern side of which the flourishing village of Ivadjik is situated. Most of the tributaries during the latter part of the summer are completely dry, and the Mendereh itself is reduced to a mere brook, which sometimes wholly disappears in the limestone gorge below Eanedeh. It is in the fountain head of Mount Ida that the persistent streams arise, and were it not for the water supply of that mountain all the rivers of the Troad would disappear during the dry season. All of the brooks along the western coast and the southern coast as far east as Chipuee, about five kilometres southeast of the ruins of Gargara, are without water during a large part of the year. Further east- ward, however, the small streams are full of clear cold water from the slopes of Caz-dagh, and furnish excellent facilities for irrigating the great olive forests of that region. The Touzla River, anciently known as the Satnioeis, has a quite remarkable valley, in which are found three alluvial plains. All of these, excepting the Halesian Plain at its mouth, are smaller than those of the Mendereh. The river itself is peculiar in flowing for many miles nearly parallel with the southern coast, which, in the vicinity of Behram, it approaches within 1.5 kilometre. Of its source in the western portion of the Mount Ida range very little is known. After flowing for some distance between high rugged mountains, the river enters the plain of Ivadjik, which is northeast of the site of Lamponeia, upon Coslou-dagh. This plain is long, INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 183 narrow, and fertile. Along the northwestern base of Coslou-dagh the river flows through a deep gorge. The pinnacled slopes of coarse angular conglomerate at this place give a peculiarly wild aspect to the scenery. The river then enters the broad fertile plain from which the ancient Assians derived their supplies ; turn- ing northwestward, it passes another deep defile, about eight kilo- metres in length, before reaching the great Halesian Plain of the western coast. Judging from the distribution of the streams, one would naturally suppose that there was but little system in the arrangement of the mountains of the Troad. This impression is only heightened by a casual study of these highlands, but when their geological structure is fully known, they will be found to be a closely related and ex- tremely interesting group, the diversity in the arrangement of which is due to differences in structure and origin. Mount Ida, or Caz-dagh (Goose Mountain), as it is known to the Turks, is the chief mountain of the peninsula, and reaches a considerable height above the timber line. Viewed from the great Plain of Edremit, it appears to be a low cone upon a small but lofty plateau. Such is apparently the case from other positions, for the present summit is only a small portion of the rim of a great dome which once formed the top of that grand mountain. The arrange- ment of the spurs and ridges connected with Caz-dagh is peculiar, and can be fully understood only when the geological structure of that group is better known. It is certain, however, that none of the parts which properly belong to Mount Ida extend beyond the great Plain of Beiramitch, or further west than Dikeleh-dagh, upon a spur of which (Cojaykia-dagh) are situated the remains of ancient Gargara. The divide between the valley of the Touzla and that of the Bahchahlee, which is the largest tributary of the M^ndereh, is low, and the topography so misleading that the position of Ivadjik, the largest town in the southern part of the Troad, is, upon most maps, incorrectly represented. The watershed south of the one just men- tioned, separating the valley of the Touzla from the sea, between the sites of Gargara and Lamponeia, is comparatively low and broken, thus completing the semicircle of plains and low hills which mark the topographical as well as the geological limits of Mount Ida. 184 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The long, narrow, mountainous belt separating the Touzla from the Gulf of Adramyttion upon the south, has many varied and interesting features. The eastern portion of the southern coast is bordered by a long, narrow, fertile plain at the foot of Caz-dagh, the many fountains of which furnish abundant water for irrigating the extensive olive-groves. Further westward, in the vicinity of Gargara (from Sazlee to Adatepeh), the plain is displaced by bold cliffs and deep ravines facing the sea. The extensive walls of Lamponeia are upon Coslou-dagh, the form of which furnishes a connecting link between that of the great plateau west of Behram and the small sharp ridges further eastward. The plateau which ends in the bold promontory at Baba- calessi (Lecton) is separated from Coslou-dagh by lowlands out of which rises the imposing Acropolis at Behram. Upon the western coast, north of the mouth of the Touzla, is a narrow, undulating plain, widening to the northward, and covered for the most part by extensive forests of valonea oak. From the lower portion of the Touzla Valley towards the site of Neandreia, the whole country is elevated, supporting numerous peaks, and de- scending upon all sides abruptly. The height decreases somewhat to the northward, until the prominent serrated ridge of Chigri-dagh is reached, while upon the western coast the bold limestone cliffs of Sacar-kyah form the most noticeable geographical feature in that part of the Troad. Further northward the rounded hills decrease in size, Carah-dagh alone rising to a considerable height above the Trojan Plain. METAMORPHIC ROCKS. The metamorphic rocks are widely distributed in the Troad, and have been found to occur in six distinct localities. Some of the areas occupied by them are very small. This is especially true of one at Lid j ah, near the western coast, and two in the southern part of the Troad, within nine kilometres of Behram. Out of the fourth and somewhat larger tract rises the prominent summit of Sacar- kyah, the high cliffs of which, facing the yEgean, may be seen from all points along the coast. The fifth is more interesting and exten- sive ; it occurs in the hills north of Chigri-dagh, includes the rocks INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 185 of CeYah-dagh, and crosses the M£ndereh between the Trojan Plain and the Plain of Eanedeh and Beiramitch. The small patch of metamorphic rocks about nine kilometres north-northeast from Behram consist chiefly of massive crystalline limestone, usually white. It forms the cliffs of a gorge along the small stream flowing from Ealesfahkee into the Touzla, and is asso- ciated with mica schist, a portion of which is quite calcareous. There are at least sixty metres of limestone overlain by the schist, dipping 11 in an easterly direction. These are in turn surmounted by the tertiary conglomerate, containing many fragments of the strata upon which it reposes. Northwest of Behram about nine kilometres, near Golfal, a small exposure of metamorphic limestone and schists occurs in the Valley of the Touzla. This locality is encircled by mountains of trachyte. Upon the right bank of the stream, by the road from Behram to Golfal, rises a hill composed chiefly of schists. A light-colored quartzose and ferruginous mica schist overlies massive gray crys- talline limestone, which upon its weathered surface is very irregular. The strike of the schist is S. 70 E., its dip 30 northerly, and the thickness of the mass about sixty metres. In the lower part of the hill it varies from a light to a bright green color, frequently has an unctuous feel, and consists of soft, flexible, but inelastic laminae. The chloritic and tafcose schists overlie limestone and quartzite, both of which have occasionally a well-marked schistose structure. The area about Sacar-kyah, near the western coast, a short dis- tance northeast of the site of Larissa, contains a very thick, massive limestone, which forms the bold cliffs of. the mountain. Associated with this are thinner crystalline limestones, interstratified with greatly disturbed schists. These are well exposed west of Sacar-kyah, on the road from the village of Tavaclee down to the sea-coast. The path from the base of the mountain to Kioiiseh-der6ssee crosses a ridge of limestone, and affords one of the finest views to be obtained along the yEgean. Near Eski Stamboul, in the Lidjah Valley, is a small exposure of highly contorted schists, from which issue the several hot springs of that locality. In the vicinity of Carah-dagh the metamorphic rocks occupy a large territory, extending from the rugged peaks near the base of Chigri-dagh, northeast across the M6ndereh, towards the Sea of 1 86 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. Marmora. The strata of that region are greatly disturbed, highly altered, and intimately associated with old eruptive rocks, so that it is very difficult to determine their exact boundaries. The road from Eanedeh to Eski Stamboul, passing through the flourishing villages of Burgaz and Yayiclee, crosses the formation near its southern limit. About two kilometres east of Burgaz the rocks and soil are bright red and yellow, while a short distance further west the gray limestone forms a fertile tract covered with valonea oak. Near the village the limestones and schists are greatly dis- turbed by intrusive granite. Upon the road towards Yayiclee, after passing over a small area of rocks which probably belong to the tertiary formation, the vertical schists again appear, and continue to the outskirts of the village. The deposits in which the deep gorge of the Mendereh, south of the Trojan Plain, has been cut, belong to the metamorphic group. Between Eanedeh and Bunarbashi, after following the river for three kilometres, the path turns to the west over comparatively low round hills of trachyte and serpentine, then, returning to the river, enters the defile in the massive gray crystalline limestone which continues to the plain of Troy. Near Bunarbashi it forms Mount Daydeh and Bali-dagh, the latter of which is supposed by some to be the site of ancient Troy. The limestone occasionally contains a great deal of quartz, in cavities and veins penetrating the rock in all directions, In the upper portion of the valley of the Kemar (Thymbrius) River are good sections of the metamorphic rocks, showing a dark mica schist and a light greenish schist, probably chloritic, interstratified with large layers of limestone occurring in frequent alternations throughout a great thickness. Of all the areas of metamorphic rocks in the Troad there are none larger or more interesting, at least topographically, than that of Mount Ida. The altered strata of that locality first appear along the southern coast in a deep ravine between Moussooradlee and Araclee, where the greenish schist lies beneath the tertiary forma- tion. At the head of the ravine, about six kilometres from the sea, upon the beautiful limestone summit of Cojakia-dagh, are the ruined walls of ancient Gargara. Associated with the gray limestone and the schists, which in some places are well-marked, evenly bedded mica schists, is a ferruginous quartzite forming the pointed summit INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 187 of Dikele6-dagh. These rocks continue eastward in the high moun- tains at some distance from the coast to near Edremit, where they reach the sea. In the vicinity of Papazle6, upon the river of the same name, they form the impregnable Acropolis on which are the ruins of Antandros. This Acropolis is an excellent example of what might be called insular erosion in the formation of valleys. The two branches of the rapid stream flow for some distance above their junction in deep parallel gorges. About one kilometre above their confluence the watershed between the two ravines has broken down, leaving this wonderful Acropolis completely isolated, and bounded on all sides by immense cliffs. From the plain of Edremit the conical summit of Mount Ida seems to rest upon a very elevated plateau, the southern slope of which is furrowed by deep ravines and bold spurs descending to the sea. From Edremit the ascent requires eight hours. The road at first winds across the sandy plain, upon the edge of which are exposed white, gray, and black crystalline limestone, associated with various schists. Leaving the beautiful village of Zytinle£, the path ascends one of the spurs, which is composed at its base of greenish schist and gray or yellowish limestones. The former is greatly con- torted, and is the prevailing rock. Its strike is apparently at right angles to the coast, so that the spurs and ravines are parallel to the general strike of the formation of which they are composed. The schist upon the southern slope varies from a true mica schist to one containing a large proportion of hornblende. Occasionally consid- erable feldspar is present, and produces many small white spots upon the weathered surface. Smooth surfaces polished by friction at the time the rocks were dislocated are common. Sometimes the strata are slightly gneissoid, and their fractures lined with epidote. The slopes of Mount Ida are covered by extensive pine forests, which are the chief source of timber in the Troad. The bare rocky top ex- tends far above the timber line, especially upon the eastern side, and is known to the Turks as the Chiplak, — a term which is very con- veniently used when reference is made to the whole of the treeless upper portion of the mountain. Northeast of the Chiplak, about the head-waters of the Zytinlee' River, the black hornblende schists are abundant, and dip away from the summit. The same is true also upon the northern slope of the mountain, where the beds de- I 88 ARCH^OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. scend towards the head-waters of the Mendereh. This arrangement will be better understood from an examination of the topography and structure of the Chiplak. Its form is, so to speak, a decapitated dome, with its highest point, Mount Gargaros, near the northwestern edge. Once, doubtless, the dome was complete, but now its summit has been carried away by erosion, and instead of being convex, it is concave, quite like a volcanic crater. Surrounding the depression upon the north, east, and south sides, is a rim, which has been broken away towards the southwest by the head-waters of the Monasteri River. The stratification is well-marked, and the structure plainly visible. The upper portion of the Chiplak is composed of three distinct strata, the lowermost of which is a coarsely crystalline white lime- stone, weathering light gray and appearing in the depressed centre. Upon this rests a gneissoid hornblende schist, which forms the greater portion of the rim. The summit, Mount Gargaros, in the northwestern part of the broken circumference, is composed chiefly of talcose schist containing veins of fibrous minerals, and rests upon the rocks already mentioned. Upon the rim are five peaks, all of which rise a considerable height above its lowest portions, and may be reached by a good path from Gargaros in about half an hour. The view from the Chiplak is extensive, and extremely interesting. It embraces all of the historic region of the Troad and the adjoin- ing portions of Europe and Asia Minor. They are spread out at the feet of the observer as if upon a great map, and more than repay him for the trouble and fatigue he must endure in order to reach that celebrated spot. The descent from the rim is not steep at first upon the east and southeast, but upon the north it is abrupt. The larger portion of the slope is occupied by a variety of schists, among which hornblende schist prevails. It is sometimes almost completely composed of large crystals of hornblende, and is inter- stratified with actinolite schists and limestones. The latter near the summit are coarsely crystalline, but further northward in the great limestone belt they are finer grained. It is from this belt, which is nearly midway between the top of Gargaros and Evjilar, that the source of the Mendereh issues. The limestone forms very high cliffs, which, owing to the peculiar position of the strata, appear to have a columnar structure. From the base of one of these cliffs are numerous springs, gushing forth as if the whole INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 189 mountain were rilled with water and just beginning to burst. The rains increase the size of the streams so much, that the cave from which the main spring issues cannot be examined in all seasons. The metamorphic rocks continue to near the base of the moun- tain, where they are replaced in the more gentle slopes by those which are granitic. The distribution of the strata and their posi- tion, so far as observed, seem to indicate that although the beds are sometimes considerably disturbed, Mount Ida is quite a simple anti- clinal, with a very short axis extending east and west, — so short, indeed, that its summit in structure is approximately a dome. TERTIARY. The tertiary formation in the Troad occurs chiefly along the coasts, but also in the interior. Many of the areas are small, and they can be most conveniently considered as parts of two large tracts, one of which borders upon the Hellespont and the ^gean, while the other occupies the interior and the shore of the Gulf of Adramyttion. It may be that the rocks of these two regions belong to different periods of deposition, but there can be no doubt that both were formed during the tertiary age. This subject can be discussed to better advantage hereafter, when the fossils collected by the present Expedition have been identified, and the works of other observers in the Troad can be consulted. The chief exposure along the southern coast extends from Coslou, eight kilometres east of Behram to the vicinity of Avjilar, which is not far from the site of Aspaneus. In the neighborhood of Papa- zlee" (Antandros) the narrow strip of tertiary is interrupted by a con- siderable mass of granite. Between Coslou and Aracle£, which is upon the coast south of Gargara, a broad belt of tertiary strata extends northward across the Valley of the Touzla into that of the Mdndereh where it expands so as to reach from near Eanedeh to Beiramitch, a short distance west of the site of Kebrene. This area is broken across by trachyte upon the watershed between the Touzla and the Bahchahlee, which is the largest southern tribu- tary of the M6ndereh. The most complete section of this formation that may be obtained at one exposure, occurs upon the sides of the deep ravine at Araclee\ igO ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. The lowest strata of the group are reddish shales and conglomerate, containing well-rounded pebbles of quartzite and other metamorphic rocks. Upon these rest thin-bedded greenish sandstones, inter- stratified with yellowish shales, some of which are calcareous, altogether having a thickness of about two hundred and forty- metres. They form the lower, most gentle part of the slope, above which rise the great cliffs of the overlying massive siliceous lime- stone. This is usually pale-yellowish colored, soft, light, and porous as if it had been thoroughly leached. Frequently it contains earthy black spots or nodules, and occasionally well-defined small crys- tals. Specimens from some distance beneath the surface effervesce in acid, but upon the weathered surface the acid is immediately absorbed without effervescence. It is massive, has a thickness of about one hundred and thirty metres, and forms prominent cliffs, in which are caves of considerable size. The upper strata of the section, consisting of thin limestones, shales, and tufas, having a thickness of many metres, are not exposed at Aracle£, but crop out further westward in the neighborhood of Coslou and Behram. The conglomerate at the base of the series is exposed at a num- ber of places between Sazle6 and Narlee. Near the latter place, upon the slope towards Papazlee', it is very coarse, composed chiefly of pebbles of granite, with some from the metamorphic rocks to the northward. The fragments are all angular or sub-angular, and appear to have been moved only a short distance from their source. In the bottom of a ravine at Ahmajah, it crops out with large round pebbles of altered strata, and has a greater thickness than further east at Araclee. By the sea, beneath the elevated village of Sazlee, ten kilometres west of Aracle6, the conglomerate is not so coarse ; it is associated with a great deal of deep red sandstone ; reaches its greatest thickness, about one hundred and seventy- five metres ; and in the absence of the massive limestone above, forms a prominent ridge. All of the pebbles of this detrital forma- tion, so far as it is known, were derived from the metamorphic rocks or the older eruptives. Fragments of trachyte or basalt have not been found anywhere in the lower strata of the tertiary upon the southern seaboard. An isolated outcrop of the strata, in the lower part of the series, occurs about eight kilometres northeast of Behram upon the road INVESTIGATIONS AT ASS OS, 1881. 19 I to Ivadjfk. Red clays and thin-bedded yellowish limestone are associated with sandstone and conglomerate. The last contains pebbles of quartzite, besides many fragments from the underlying schists. The most extensive exposure of the shales and sandstones of the lower part of the series is between Chipnee" and Adatepeh, upon the coast, six kilometres southeast of the ruins of Gargara. In that locality the gray, greenish, and yellowish sandstones and shaly grits form the lower hills, separating the bold limestone cliffs of Adatepeh from the prominent ridges of the same calcareous stratum further westward. These beds are greatly disturbed, and are the source of the hot springs at the Lid j ah (hot baths) of that region. They crop out also at Narlee" and Avjilar, but have not been seen further eastward. The massive limestone near the middle of the series is an inter- esting and perplexing rock. It so resembles in general appearance the trachyte, with which it is intimately associated about Chipnee (south of Gargara) and Demearjee-kioy, that special care needs to be taken in determining its boundaries. It reaches the sea at Ahmajah, and continues in detached masses along the coast for nine kilometres, forming high cliffs separated by profound gorges. These topographical features are a result determined by the position of the strata, for each ravine is upon a gentle anticlinal, while the broad, shallow, synclinal structure preserves the soft limestone within it. This structure is most plainly seen at Adatepeh, which is situated upon the narrowest and most completely isolated syn- clinal. Its short axis extends northeast and southwest, and it presents bold cliffs to the northwest and the sea. The anticlinal at its western base is broad, and the strata much more disturbed than the tertiary strata elsewhere. The axes of the gentle folds in the tertiary formation of the southern coast are short, and either nearly at right angles to the general trend of the shore line, or else extend northeast and southwest. These disturbances are doubtless accompanied by faults, for upon the coast south of Demearje£-kioy the massive beds of the conglomerates are found abutting directly against beds of yellowish limestone in another part of the series. The upper beds of the series, consisting of thin limestones, sand- stones, and shales, with tufas and conglomerates made up entirely 192 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. IP* <:ix vN 1 :t! V-*i ■i Vj T=| /'-, > J u > > H H-l of volcanic debris, are not exposed east of Sazlee. The limestones are usually thin-bedded, yellowish or gray ; sometimes soft and marly. They are the only beds of the whole series upon the southern coast in which fossils have been found. These fossils, chiefly small Gasteropods, occur in considerable numbers at a few localities, but the range in species is not great. Most of them have been obtained from a little exposure upon Coslou-dagh, about seven kilometres northeast of Behram. The horizontal marly beds, having a thickness of eight metres, contain numerous large frag- ments of trachyte, and are complete- ly surrounde by volcanic rocks. The small outcrops of tertiary rocks, enveloped by trachyte and volcanic conglomerate, are numer- ous in the southern portion of the Troad, and the relations of the two formations are for the most part distinctly indicated. East of Beh- ram five kilometres are several of these exposures, and the fol- lowing section (Fig. 3) represents the relations of the rocks in that locality. The lowest limestone (I.) is siliceous and minutely oolit- ic, containing in its upper por- tion numerous fossils. Small Gas- teropods are most abundant, and widely distributed in the strata. The small lamellibranchiate mol- lusk which is so abundant in the limestone of the Trojan Plain and at Eski Stamboul occurs in a thin layer near the middle of this lime- stone. A dike of trachyte (II.) sep- arates the lowest limestone from the second (III.), which has a thick- ness of about sixteen metres. It INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 193 is of a gray color, rather soft and oolitic, containing numerous small Gasteropod shells. It dips northerly under an angle of twenty de- grees, the strike being parallel to the general trend of the southern coast. Over this lies a bed of light-colored tufa and ashes (IV.), which is succeeded by the second dike of trachyte (V.). The third limestone (VI.), having a thickness of only two metres, is soft, light- gray, and marly, containing small Gasteropods, like the ones in the inferior beds. This calcareous stratum is overlain by at least thirty- five metres of greenish conglomerate, sandstones, and shales (VII.). The conglomerate alternates frequently with the sandstone, and contains numerous cellular and compact fragments, apparently iden- tical with the first and second trachytes at Behram. The upper bed is a greenish sandstone, upon which reposes a large stratum of tufa (VIII.), about thirty metres in thickness. It is composed chiefly of very light, soft, white fibrous fragments, in a light-colored groundmass, containing also a few small pieces of trachyte. The tufa at this place shows no evidences of stratification, but elsewhere similar detritus is definitely arranged. At the top of the section is a large dike of trachyte (IX.), which in the first part of the present Report has been designated the third trachyte. The interposed dikes of trachyte are of the same kind, and both have distinct fluidal structure dipping northerly, parallel with the stratification in the adjoining rocks. This trachyte is not represented among the pebbles in the fragmental rocks of the section, — a fact which indicates that the volcanic rocks are not overflows contemporaneous with the deposition of the formation in which they occur, but are subsequent injections after the deposits were complete. The dislo- cation and distribution of the stratified rocks is incompatible with any supposition but that which regards them as older than the eruptive formation with which they are associated. Further westward the amount of volcanic debris in the sedi- mentary beds increases. Four kilometres west of Behram, by the sea, is exposed a coarse conglomerate, with a small proportion of fine detritus, having in all a thickness of at least sixty metres. The fragments are well rounded ; a few are of compact trachyte ; many of quartzite and other metamorphic rocks ; but the majority of limestone, apparently like some of that belonging to the tertiary formation. This sedimentary deposit appears to be overlain by 194 A TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. trachyte, above which crops out a section composed wholly of vol- canic debris distinctly stratified. The beds consist chiefly of ashes, usually of a gray color, alternating with layers containing numerous large round fragments of trachyte, like that beneath. The upper bed, six metres in thickness, is of reddish-brown and bright-red ashes, upon which rests a mass of trachyte. A well-defined colum- nar structure is developed in the bright-red ashes along its junction with the overlying formation, but the same structure does not appear in the trachyte. The thickness of the volcanic sediment at this exposure is at least forty metres. The trachyte occurring near the middle of this section is apparently the same as that called the first trachyte in the part of this Report referring to the geology of Assos, while the one at the top of the section is more closely related to that of the Acropolis at Behram. Small outcrops of stratified volcanic debris belonging near the top of the tertiary formation are numerous in the southern part of the Troad, and show conclusively that the tertiary strata occupied the whole surface of that region before the great eruption of trachyte occurred. Many of these exposures are of special interest, but can- not be noticed without expanding this Report far beyond its proper limits. Let it be sufficient to mention one more outcrop, which is remarkable on account of the fossils and lignite which it con- tains. It is only a few hundred metres from the y£gean shore, near Point Devay, about five kilometres east of Baba-calessi. The exposure is at the foot of the steep slope and high cliffs of trachyte which rise abruptly to the plateau. Half a score of years ago the locality was explored by means of a horizontal drift, eight metres long, in the hope of finding valuable coal. The lignite is lean and earthy upon the surface, but occasionally there are thin laminae of good quality. Its thickness where greatest is 2.5 metres, but is sub- ject to sudden variations, and it may be traced along the base of that cliff for a distance of fifty metres. The associated rock, both above and below, is gray limestone, containing many fossils, appar- ently different from those found at other localities. A thickness of more than fifty metres of limestone is exposed ; its general strike is parallel to the adjacent coast, and it dips northerly about twenty- five degrees; but near the basaltic rock and trachyte, both of which occur in the immediate vicinity, the position of the strata is such as INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 195 to indicate that they were dislocated by the extrusion of the eruptive rocks. By the path leading from the old excavation to Baba-calessi there are excellent exposures of distinctly stratified rocks, com- posed wholly of volcanic debris and fragments of eruptive for- mations. These strata are greatly disturbed, being occasionally nearly vertical. They are evidently older than the trachyte, which forms the mass of the plateau, and with the limestone and lignite apparently belong to the same series as the stratified rocks east of Behram. The distribution of the tertiary about the great plain of the M6n- dereh between Eanedeh and Beiramitch (near Kebrene) has not been completely determined. Upon the road from Beiramitch to Ivadjik the grayish compact limestone crops out near the former place, and closely resembles that along the southern coast near Behram not only in general appearance, but also in containing the same fossils and being very oolitic. At one locality good specimens of pisolite were found scattered upon the surface. The limestone is frequently earthy or marly, and contains small pebbles of other rocks. The strata are nearly horizontal, and they crop out over a large territory of low rounded hills and ridges along the side of the plain southeast of Eanedeh. The tertiary formation in the valley of the M£ndereh is separated from that in the Touzla Valley and the southern coast by a mass of trachyte, but within the narrow belt of this eruptive rock, which is younger than the tertiary strata, there are small exposures of the latter, and there can be no doubt that the deposits of the two large areas in question were once connected. It is a general fact, observable throughout the southern portion of the Troad, that wherever the trachytes are found in contact with the tertiary beds the latter are considerably disturbed, and it is evident that the dislocations are due to the intrusion of the eruptive rocks. The tertiary bordering upon the Hellespont and the western coast is very fossiliferous, and in this respect appears to be different from that which occurs in the interior and along the southern coast. In the vicinity of the Trojan Plain and the Dardanelles it has been studied recently by Virchow, Calvert, Neumayr, and others whose works the writer is unfortunately not able to obtain at this time. An excellent section of these rocks is exposed in the steep cliffs ig6 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. facing the Hellespont, just north of Reu-kioy. The metamorphic and eruptive rocks which limit the tertiary formation south and southeast of the Trojan Plain form irregular mountains, extending from Carah-dagh, west of the valley of the Mendereh, north- east to the Hellespont. At the base of these mountains the tertiary beds form a low undulating plateau, the strata of which, generally horizontal, gently rise towards the northeast, until in the neighbor- hood of Chanac-calessi their dislocation is quite marked. Out of the horizontal strata of fossiliferous limestone has been cut the depression occupied by the Trojan Plain, and upon one of the spurs (Hissarlik) projecting into the plain from the east are the celebrated ruins of Troy. Excellent exposures of a part of this series of rocks occur along the Valley of the Kemar. The lowermost stratum of the group appears to be a marly conglomerate, containing fragments of serpentine and other altered rocks. Sometimes it is a quite com- pact limestone, but generally it is soft and light colored, having a thickness of about fifteen metres. Upon this horizontal stratum rests another, composed chiefly of red clay, containing many peb- bles, but occasionally it is a regular conglomerate of mica-schist frag- ments mixed with those of other metamorphic rocks. Overlying these strata upon both sides of the valley is a thick layer of basalt, which, in the vicinity of the chiftlik of the American Consul (Mr. Frank Calvert), is itself overlain by red clay and shelly limestone. At the northeast base of Bali-dagh, near Bunarbashi, the same calcareous conglomerate which occurs in the Kemar Valley, appears to rest unconformably upon the crystalline gray limestone. The soft pebbly bed is composed chiefly of fragments of the limestone upon which it reposes, but contains also numerous pieces of serpentine, and is distinctly overlain by basalt. At the northwestern extremity of the " Forty Eyes," near Bunar- bashi, the conglomerate again occurs, and is composed of large angular fragments of the crystalline limestone, upon which it lies unconformably. At this locality it is overlain by soft sandy strata. The marly and sandy horizontal beds which form the prominent cliffs facing the ^Egean at Yeni-share extend southward along the undulating coast, covered by extensive forests of valonea oak. The ruins of Eski Stamboul are upon a soft shelly limestone, INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. I 9 7 which appears to be connected with that like it about the Trojan Plain. That the tertiary formation around the Plain of Troy is connected with that in the vicinity of Eski Stamboul is rendered very probable, not only by the similarity of the limestones in the two localities both in general aspect and fossil contents, but also by the fact that northeast of Eski Stamboul, about seven kilometres in the neighborhood of Yayiclce, there is a coarse conglomerate, the horizontal beds of which are composed of granite and crystalline limestone pebbles, with those of other metamorphic rocks, and rest directly upon the strata from which they were derived. This con- glomerate appears to occupy the same position as that at the base of the tertiary strata in the neighborhood of Bunarbashi. South of Eski Stamboul one kilometre, the granitic rocks of Chigri-dagh advance westward and reduce the tertiary to a nar- row belt by the sea ; but further southward, about the supposed site of Larissa, it expands and forms a series of flat-topped hills. The strata are generally horizontal, but sometimes they have a gentle dip and contain many fossils, among which is a small Ostrea. A fine exposure of the coarse conglomerate at the base of the terti- ary beds, as well as the granite and metamorphic rocks from which it was derived, may be seen upon the road leading from the sea to Tavaclee, which is situated high upon the slopes of Sacar-kyah. The tertiary formation continues along the western coast to within four kilometres of Baba-calessi. Just north of the mouth of the Touzla the trachytes advance westward from Touzla-dagh, and again reduce the tertiary to a mere strip ; but south of the low projecting ridge of trachyte about the great Halesion Plain the tertiary rocks are extensively developed. Near the sea, opposite Touzla, the small tertiary ridges extending across the plain are composed for the most part of very fossiliferous limestone, some of which is compact, but generally soft and marly. The overlying limestone consists wholly of finely comminuted shells, and dips seaward. It has very distinct ripple-marks, with occasional cross- bedding, and must have been deposited in shallow water. Beneath this compact limestone the strata are soft, containing numerous small Gasteropods and other molluscan forms. One stratum is composed wholly of oyster shells. Lower down in the series occurs a conglomerate containing many fragments of trachyte, some of igg ARCH&OLOGICAL INSTITUTE. which closely resemble the oldest of the three trachytes at Behram. The whole section exposed in the plain has a thickness of about ninety metres. Upon the eastern edge of the plain, close to the village of Touzla, in the immediate vicinity of several hot springs, occurs a remarkably beautiful section of highly-colored strata, composed almost wholly of volcanic debris. The base of the series of rocks exposed at this place is a conglomerate of scoriaceous fragments of trachyte. This is succeeded by frequent alternations of strata con- taining coarse and fine sediment, which ranges in size from parti- cles of clay to fragments nearly half a metre in diameter. Many of the larger pebbles are of a light-colored tufa which occurs in the neighborhood, and is used for making millstones. The layers have all varieties of red and yellow color, and present a wonderfully beautiful as well as unique appearance. They are distinctly folded, and small faults are of frequent occurrence. These highly-colored beds have a thickness of about thirty metres, and doubtless owe their extraordinary appearance to the presence of the hot saline springs by which they are surrounded. No fossils have been found in these strata, but their position, as well as composition, makes it very probable that they belong to the tertiary. Upon the road between Kioulacled (Chrysa) and Baba-calessi, about two kilometres from the former place, the tertiary beds may be seen in contact with the trachyte. The strata are marly, light colored, sandy, and pebbly, containing distinct fragments of trachyte and metamorphic rocks. Near the sea the beds are horizontal, and continue in that attitude eastward to the neighborhood of the trachyte, where they are suddenly disturbed and thrown into a vertical position. Fig. 4 is a representation of the structure in that locality. It is not known certainly to what portion of the western coast tertiary the strata containing the trachyte fragments belong. It is evident, however, that the conglomerate containing these pebbles is beneath at least sixty metres of compact and marly limestones, in which are found many fossils. It cannot be doubted, therefore, that while some of the trachyte is younger than the tertiary of the western coast, another portion was extruded long before the close of that formation. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 199 In comparing the tertiary strata of the southern coast and the interior with those bordering upon the Hellespont and the y£gean, it is to be remarked that there is an apparent difference in the num- ber and character of their fossils. While the latter may be said to Fig. 4 (-?&?> be characterized by the abundance of fossils, among which the most prominent and numerous are bivalve mollusks, the other appears to be distinguished by its paucity of organic remains, most of which are small univalve mollusks. It is probable, however, that some of the species are identical in the two faunas, and that their difference arises rather from unlike conditions than a want of agreement in the time of deposition. There appears to be no essential difference in their relation to the trachytes. It is evident that while some of the trachytes are younger than the tertiary rocks of both regions, there are others older than the upper strata of the series in each of the two terri- tories ; however, upon the western coast the trachytic fragments occur apparently lower down in the series, and the rocks generally are somewhat less disturbed than those along the coast of the Gulf of Adramyttion. Notwithstanding these differences there are some important points of agreement. In both regions the tertiary beds come in contact with the metamorphic rocks, and the lower stratum is a conglomerate derived directly from the altered strata upon which it rests. The occurrence of lignite near the shores of the Hellespont, 1 as 1 Its occurrence northeast of Lapsakee has been described by Tchihatcheff. 200 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. well as along the southern coast east of Baba-calessi, and probably also in the interior, 1 indicates that the strata in which it is found in all the localities mentioned are essentially of the same age. The rocks of both areas occur at elevations high above the sea level, and make it evident that a great change in the configuration of the country has taken place since the period of their deposition. The distribution of the tertiary rocks shows clearly that they were formed before the Hellespont existed, and suggests that what is now the peninsula of the Troad may then have been several islands. It has been shown by the observations of others that the water in which the strata were deposited was either fresh or brackish. ALLUVIUM. The alluvium of the Troad occurs chiefly in the plains already noticed in describing the river valleys. Two of the plains are along the Mdmdereh, and of these the Plain of Troy has been fully de- scribed by Professor Virchow, in his excellent work entitled Bcitrdge zur Landeskunde der Troas. Of the three along the valley of the Touzla only the Halesian Plain by the sea is of considerable importance. It is extensive and fertile, and is nearly divided into two parts by the low ridges of tertiary several kilometres west of Touzla. The old Roman bridge, which once spanned the river where it breaks across these ridges, now stands upon a level plain about two hundred and thirty metres from the present river bed. The amount of filling around it, by which the surface was brought up to the general level of the plain, appears to have been at least two metres. The detritus near the ancient structure is generally very fine, but contains some gravel, and is like that upon other portions of the great plain, whose sur- face is about two metres above the bottom of the Mendereh. Were it not for the bridge one would not be likely to suspect that formerly the river bed had been at that place. It is an interesting example, showing that great changes have occurred within the last two thousand years. 1 Good specimens of lignite were shown to the writer at Eanedeh, and were said to have been collected within a two-hours' walk from that place ; but their possessor could not be induced to disclose more definitely the locality of his treasure. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 2 OI The changes which have taken place in the Halesian Plain are recorded in such a way that even the most sceptical cannot doubt them, and are important when considered in connection with those said to have occurred in the Plain of Troy. Although the gravel beds and succession of deep pits containing the stagnant pools of the Kalifatli Asmak, together with the well-marked banks of a large stream, are proofs that the Scamander once flowed close to the foot of Hissarlik, yet they are not nearly as impressive evidences of recent changes as the presence, in a level plain, of a large bridge far from the stream which it once must have spanned. ERUPTIVE ROCKS. A large portion of the rocks of the Troad are eruptive, and their distribution is extremely irregular. The trachytes are by far the most abundant, and occupy an extensive area towards the bold promontory of Baba-calessi. Granitic rocks stand next in abun- dance and importance as topographical determinants, while the basaltic rocks, and probably also the serpentines, although widely distributed, do not extend over large districts. SERPENTINE. The serpentine of the Troad has been found only in the north- western portion south of the Trojan Plain in the vicinity of Carah- dagh, where it is intimately mixed with the limestones and schists of the metamorphic series. Upon the road from Eanedeh to Bunarbashi, about four kilometres from the former, a path turns to the westward, and after passing several considerable elevations of conglomerate and trachyte, ascends the low rounded conical hills of serpentine near the base of Carah-dagh. The rock is usually of a deep green color, but varies, becoming bluish or reddish, and contains small but distinct crystals of a lamellar mineral supposed to be diallage. It is much stained by oxide of iron, and presents many fibrous, smooth surfaces like slickensides. Upon a fresh fracture the rock is usually dull greasy, and occasionally the promi- nent foliated crystals give it a porphyroid structure. It weathers reddish brown, and in general has a very ancient aspect. An 202 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. imperfect columnar structure is occasionally present, but was not seen fully developed anywhere ; the rock for the most part being much fractured and decomposed. Some good exposures of the serpentine occur along the Kemar River, about five kilometres beyond the Plain of Troy. At that locality it is compact, and intimately associated with the schists and limestones, through which it appears to penetrate in the form of irregular dikes. However, the rocks are so much disturbed that its relations are not easily determined. According to Mr. Frank Cal- vert, 1 the American Consul at Dardanelles, the serpentine occurs in distinct dikes, cutting the crystalline limestone. The age of the serpentine is definitely shown by its relations to the metamorphic rocks and the tertiary. That it is younger than the former strata is evident from the fact that it cuts them in the form of dikes. Its occurrence as pebbles in the conglomerate at the base of the tertiary series of that region is equally positive evidence that its eruption took place before the deposition of the conglomerate commenced. GRANITIC ROCKS. The granitic rocks of the Troad are widely distributed, but the single outcrops are generally small. The largest of them is that east of Beiramitch, near the head-waters of the Mendereh. Quite an extensive mass occurs also about Chigri-dagh, the site of Nean- dreia, and two smaller exposures may be found along the southern coast near Papazlee and Avjilar. At the latter locality the rock is coarsely granitic, consisting chiefly of amphibole and feldspar, with a smaller but yet considerable proportion of black mica and quartz. The hornblende occurs well crystallized in forms frequently one centimetre long, and half as broad. The feldspar, usually well crystallized, is occasionally distinctly striated. Fragments of the mica schist which occurs in the mountains a short distance north of this locality are enveloped by the granitic rock, which must there- fore be more recent than those of the metamorphic series. 1 Mr. Frank Calvert, the American Consul at Dardanelles, is very familiar with the geology of the anterior Troad, and to him the writer is indebted for valuable assistance while examining the rocks of that region. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 203 The granitic rocks in the neighborhood of Papazlee and Narlee" are like those just east of Avjilar. Both exposures are at the foot of Mount Ida, and form low rounded hills, whose gentle slopes are occasionally covered with micaceous sand, resulting from disinte- gration. Near Narlee the coarse conglomerate at the base of the tertiary series contains many fragments of the underlying granite, — a fact which is conclusive evidence that the latter rock was extruded before the deposition of the tertiary commenced. Upon the northern side of Mount Ida, between Curshunlou- tepeh and the source of the Mendereh, the rocks present a similar appearance and composition. In the coarsely crystalline portion hornblende is always abundant, but the amount of mica varies greatly, being at times apparently absent from the unaltered rock, while in the weathered portions it is occasionally nearly as abun- dant as the amphibole. The rocks are generally coarsely crys- talline, much disintegrated, and contain distinct fragments of metamorphic schists, but near their contact with the latter they are finely crystalline, containing quartz, feldspar, and mica in equal proportions, and apparently no hornblende. The relation of this fine granite to the coarsely crystalline rock has not been deter- mined. It occupies a narrow belt upon the gentle slopes at the foot of Mount Ida, without entering as an essential member into the mountain structure. The irregular serrated ridge of Chigri-dagh is composed of a granitic rock which is not so coarsely crystalline as that of either of the other districts. It forms the low uneven plateau extending west and southwest from Chigri-dagh to the heights close by the sea, where it is limited by a narrow belt of tertiary. The rock con- sists of quartz, feldspar, and mica, with some amphibole and occa- sionally large prominent crystals of feldspar, sometimes attaining a length of two centimetres and a thickness of five millimetres. It has evidently been regarded as a trachyte by Tchihatcheff in his extensive works upon Asia Minor, while by Webb it was considered as a granite. The rock is completely crystalline, and is usually quite different from any of the trachytes of the Troad. However, it is variable, and intimately associated with light-colored compact rocks, whose relations have not yet been fully determined. Near Chigri village," and also upon the eastern slope of the mountain 204 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. towards Eanedeh, the granitic rocks are penetrated by dikes of a soft, highly altered, light-colored, slightly porphyritic rock, which appears to belong to the trachyte. In the vicinity of Eski Stam- boul the crystalline rock has suffered considerable disintegration, but is frequently compact, containing few or many porphyritic feldspars, which appear to have no striations. North of Chigri-dagh, in the neighborhood of Burgaz, the granitic rocks occur as irregular dikes cutting the metamorphic strata, which are greatly disturbed. The same phenomena may be observed near Tavaclee (near Larissa), about eight kilometres southwest of Chigri-dagh. At the last locality, as well as seven kilometres northeast of Eski Stamboul, the conglomerate, at the base of the tertiary deposits, contains numerous fragments of the granitic rocks of that region. It is evident, therefore, that the rocks of Chigri-dagh are more recent than those of the metamorphic series, and older than the tertiary strata along the western coast, and, moreover, it appears that all of the granitic rocks of the Troad are of the same relative age. TRACHYTES. The trachytes of the Troad occur chiefly in the southwestern portion, where they occupy a large area, extending from the south- ern coast between Baba-calessi and Coslou, north across the Valley of the Touzla and the high irregular peaks of Touzla-dagh, Kazik- dagh, Cavak-dagh, and Caz-dagh, to Eanedeh, and the plateau of granitic rocks about Chigri-dagh. An irregular arm of trachyte from the large mass extends eastward upon the watershed between the chief southern branch of the Mendereh and the Touzla, and forms the low, broad mountain called Daydeh-dagh. Several small detached areas occur along the southern coast in the neighborhood of Demearje£-kioy, Chipnee (south of Gargara), and Kizil-ketchily, near the site of ancient Astyra. It is evident that in the vicinity of Behram there are at least three trachytes, differing not only in general appearance but also in age. It is not possible, however, at present, to separate the various trachytes from one another throughout the whole of the Southwest- ern Troad. They vary greatly in different parts of the region, and INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 205 it is very probable that rocks which are here included under the trachytes when they are better known will be classed among other groups. The trachyte which in The Geology of Assos has been called the first trachyte, occupies a large portion of the area between Behram and the great plateau further westward, as well as a considerable district about the base of Coslou-dagh towards the east. Its color is usually dark-purplish, but varies greatly. The compact uniform groundmass contains varying quantities of small porphyritic crystals of feldspar, a few of which have the characteristic striae of plagio- clase, but orthoclase is by far the most abundant. The ground- mass usually contains a small quantity of minute scales of mica and other dark-colored crystals, some of which are probably hornblende. The upper portion of the trachyte is frequently cellular and scoria- ceous, like the surface of a modern lava-flow, and can often be recognized among the pebbles oi the tertiary conglomerate of the western and southern coasts, — a fact which clearly indicates that it is one of the oldest trachytes, and yet it occasionally occurs also in the position of the most recent rocks of its kind. About four and a half kilometres northwest ot Behram the trachyte distinctly overlies the ashy beds at the top ok the tertiary series, and must be younger than the beds upon which it reposes. In the vicinity of Balabahny, upon the plateau directly north of the site of Polymedion, a trachyte occurs containing numerous small but distinct crystals of mica and many thin tabular, glassy crystals of orthoclase, some of which attain a length of eight milli- metres. The crevices of this rock are often coated with beautifully colored chalcedony. It is much lighter colored than the first tra- chyte at Behram, and does not appear to have an extensive distribu- tion. The same trachyte occurs near Baba-calessi, where the crystals are so small that if plagioclase is present it cannot be recognized with a hand-lens. A fresh fracture shows only a small quantity of the accessory minerals, but upon a weathered surface they are more distinctly seen ; the small black crystals of mica and greenish horn- blende occasionally give to the rock a peppered appearance Upon the north side of the Touzla, similar rocks appear near Gulfal, about ten kilometres northwest of Behram, and extend east- ward, occupying most of the area immediately north of the river as 206 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. far as Ivadjfk. At Pasha-kioy, however, which is directly north of Behram six kilometres, the rock, although similar in its general appearance to the trachytes already noticed, is essentially different. Its few porphyritic feldspars are for the most part plainly striated, and the crystals of hornblende, much more abundant than the min- ute scales of mica, sometimes attain a length of five millimetres, and are more prominent upon a fresh fracture than the feldspar. This grayish rock appears less siliceous than the ordinary trachytes, and is not abundant in the Troad, although it occurs at intervals as far north as Chigri-dagh. The trachyte designated in the first part of this Report as the second trachyte, has a wide distribution, and appears to cover con- siderable districts. It extends only a short distance east and west of Behram, and is then replaced by other rocks of the same kind. Commonly its color is light gray, with many irregular milk-white spots, indicating the presence of numerous crystals of feldspar. These vary greatly in size, appearing in tabular form sometimes ten millimetres long and eight millimetres in width. The large crys- tals are comparatively few, but they are surrounded by innumerable smaller ones, whose limits upon the rough fractured surface of the rock are not distinctly outlined. Within the groundmass, which is irregularly cellular, are numerous small crystals of black mica, and probably a few of hornblende, with small quantities of other acces- sory minerals. The crystals are so much fractured that the kind of feldspar is not easily determined. All of the larger ones may be orthoclase ; the smaller ones, bearing even indistinct stria;, are rare. The granular and porous structure of the groundmass gives to the rock a rough, angular fracture. This trachyte does not form any important topographical feature south of the Touzla, excepting the Acropolis of Assos, at which place it appears, from facts already presented in the preceding paper, to have been extruded from a volcano before the depo- sition of the tertiary strata of the southern coast was completed. There is evidence also, but as yet not conclusive, that, at another place three kilometres west of Behram, this trachyte came up in the form of a dike and overflowed the ashy strata at the top of the tertiary. Among the high mountains north of the Touzla this trachyte INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 207 forms Cavak-dagh and Kazik-dagh. It is of a pale-reddish color, with numerous orthoclase feldspar of less size than those in the Acropolis trachyte at Assos. Further north, near the plateau of granitic rocks about Chigri-dagh, the color is gray, and not so coarsely granular as that in the southern portion of the Troad. It is in the neighborhood of Eanedeh, however, that this trachyte has its most pronounced form. There the tabular crystals of ortho- clase are large, frequently sixteen millimetres long and fourteen millimetres wide. They are usually clear and glass)', and are sur- rounded by a granular gray ground mass, containing innumerable small white feldspars, apparently orthoclase, besides small quanti- ties of mica and hornblende. It should be remarked that the determination of the kind of feldspar, by means of a small lens, is in most cases very unsatisfac- tory, for the crystals are generally small and much fractured, so that the presence or absence of the characteristic striae is not easily discovered. It is certain, however, that the large crystals of this trachyte are orthoclase, and that some of the crystals in the trachytes already noticed are plagioclase. The trachyte near Eanedeh containing the large crystals of ortho- clase closely resembles in general appearance the Drachenfels trachyte in the Seven Mountains, upon the Rhine, while that already described as occurring at Pasha-kioy appears like the trachyte of Wolkenberg in the same region. The prominent orthoclase crystals are frequently arranged so that their tabular surfaces are approxi- mately parallel, — a phenomenon which has been noticed in the trachyte at Behram also, but in neither case is it true for the greater part of the rock. The trachyte named in the first part of this Report the third trachyte, is extensively developed south of the Touzla, but does not reach far to the northward. The groundmass is usually brownish or reddish-brown, and contains, besides minute flakes of mica and small grains of quartz, numerous crystals of feldspar, a por- tion of which appear to be orthoclase, but are generally too small to be determined with a pocket-lens. Although the rock is some- times compact, it is generally more or less cellular between the irregular laminae which mark the fluidal structure. The laminae are occasionally drawn out so as to produce distinct bands of different 208 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. colors continuous for a metre or more, such as may be seen in the felsites of Marblehead Neck, north of Boston. The fluidal structure usually consists of a streamlike arrangement of the small porphyritic crystals and pebbles, as well as the elongated irregular cells, and small darker and lighter portions of the ground mass. At the base of the dikes of this trachyte, especially where it lies upon fragmental rocks, is commonly found a pebbly rock containing more or less of a soft, black, brittle vitreous substance, which is usually arranged in elongated parallel patches corresponding in position to the fluidal structure in the overlying trachyte. A portion of the first trachyte has been frequently found scoria- ceous, but the same phenomenon has not been observed in con- nection with the second and third trachytes. The last, being so intimately associated with the ashy strata at the top of the tertiary formation along the southern coast, is frequently full of fragments which it picked up at the time of its eruption. Some of the inclu- sions evidently belong to the first trachyte, but the majority of them cannot be identified. The third trachyte is one of the chief topographical determinants along the southern coast. It forms the bold ridge of Coslou-dagh, upon which the ruins of ancient Lamponeia are situated. The north- ern slope of the mountain is gentle, but upon the south it presents high cliffs towards the sea. At its eastern extremity the trachyte rests directly upon the upper portion of the tertiary formation. The strike of the underlying strata is parallel with the general trend of the mountain, approximately east and west, and the dip is northerly, corresponding to the fluidal structure in the superimposed trachyte. The slope of the sheet of trachyte is in some places so gentle, that it forms a small plateau upon the mountain top. This peculiar feature furnished an excellent site for a large city, where the exten- sive Cyclopean walls of Lamponeia are found. There can be no doubt that the prominent ridge of Coslou-dagh owes its position to a large dike, and was formed in much the same manner as Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom of the Connecticut Valley. West of Behram, about eight kilometres, the great plateau begins and extends to Baba-calessi. Although several varieties of trachyte are found in that region, the prevailing one closely re- sembles the third trachyte at Assos, and occurs in extensive dikes, INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 209 the gentle dips of which, like that at Coslou-dagh, determine the existence of the plateau. That the plateau is made up of a series of dikes, or overflows, which gently dip to the northward, can be seen upon the plateau itself, where the dikes occasionally form cliffs facing towards the south, as well as at its eastern extremity, where they overlie the tilted tertiary strata. In the vicinity of Demearje^-kioy, about twelve kilometres east of Behram, occurs a peculiar light-colored trachyte. Enclosed in the fine groundmass of this, are numerous glassy crystals of orthoclase, and some apparently of quartz. The ordinary accessory minerals are almost entirely wanting. The trachytes of the Troad are frequently much altered, and it is often difficult to obtain good hand-specimens. They generally pre- serve their form, notwithstanding their alteration, and rarely crumble like the granitic rocks. Of all places where these alterations occur there is perhaps none more interesting than that found in connec- tion with the hot springs at Touzla (Tragasae), where the trachytes have a great variety of bright colors, like the sedimentary rocks which they have displaced. The first and second trachytes at Behram are among the oldest in the Troad, and flowed, as has been shown in the first part of this Report, from a veritable volcanic crater before the close of the period during which the tertiary strata of the southern coast were deposited. Later the same trachytes appear to have reached the surface through long fissures. The third trachyte, which was erupted through fissures only, was doubtless extruded after the tertiary strata were deposited, and most probably as one of the closing events of the period when the land was raised above the sea level. CONGLOMERATE. At many places in the Troad the trachyte is so intimately asso- ciated with a conglomerate of the same material, that it is scarcely possible to map the two separate!}'. They are mixed in the most complicated fashion, and it is often difficult to determine their relations. Excellent exposures of the conglomerate occur in the cliffs by the port of Behram. It is here composed chiefly of cinders apparently 14 2io ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. fused together into an irregular lumpy mass, as described in the preceding paper. A similar conglomerate, composed wholly of red cinders, occurs along the coast about eight kilometres east of Behram, and also to the westward, but is not of common occurrence elsewhere. Near the small village of Sonobar, three kilometres southwest of the ruins of Lamponeia, the coarse fragmental rock contains, besides scoriated stones, others which are compact, and quite unlike those occurring in the volcanic conglomerate about Behram. It is in the gorge of the Touzla, however, by the northern base of Coslou-dagh, that the finest exposures of this formation are to be found. It is composed of fragments of all sizes heaped together indiscriminately, and cemented in some places as if by fusion. The stones are usually reddish or black, coarse, compact, and angular, and show no signs whatever of erosion. Cinders are rare at this outcrop. It forms the steep slopes of the gorge in which the river flows between the plain of Ivadji'k and that of Behram. The surface of the rock is extremely rough, and exhibits a marked tendency to form sharp pinnacles and columns. The dark-colored fragments are frequently magnetic, and appear to belong to the basaltic rocks, although the trachytes (so called by all observers in the Troad) occasionally affect the magnetic needle, and render it difficult to obtain correct bearings in the ordinary way. In the high cliffs by Baba-calessi occurs a cindery conglomerate closely resembling that at Behram, and appears to rest upon the trachyte with which it is associated. The same is true in part of that in the Touzla Valley at the base of Coslou-dagh, but in the same region also, near the western end of the mountain, the trachyte distinctly overlies the conglomerate. Among the mountains north of the Touzla and in the vicinity of Ivacljik and Sapandjee there are extensive areas of fragmental rocks, everywhere intimately associated with the trachytes and the tertiary strata. Their relation to the latter is in some localities difficult to discover. The conglomerate occurs at many places, composed of a great variety of volcanic debris, differing widely in size and weight, and yet there may not be the slightest trace of stratification. More- over, in the same neighborhood, at an equal height above the sea, distinctly stratified beds of similar volcanic material, belonging to the upper part of the tertiary, may be found. INVESTIGATIONS AT AS SOS, 1881. 211 The facts seem to indicate that what has been proved true at Behram may be true also of the whole of the region occupied by the trachyte, viz. : that the earlier eruptions of trachyte were accompanied or closely followed by great showers of cinders and ashes. A part of the fragmental material thrown out from craters or fissures may have fallen in water and become stratified ; but it seems to be more prob- able that the land was subsequently submerged and most of the fine material stratified, while the larger portion of the coarse was not re-arranged. The fact that the conglomerate is distinctly overlain by trachyte is positive evidence that there were eruptions of the latter subsequent to the formation of at least a part of the former. It is very probable that the conglomerate is not all of the same age, but nothing has as yet been observed to indicate that any part of it is younger than the third trachyte, which forms Coslou-dagh and the plateau south of the Touzla. BASALTIC ROCKS. Rocks belonging to the basalt group are widely distributed in the Troad, but always occupy comparatively small areas. One of the largest tracts is between Sazlee and Demearje^-kioy, about fifteen kilometres east of Behram. The rock is dark colored, excepting where considerably weathered, in which case it is yellowish gray. It has a well-marked columnar structure, and evidently tilted the ad- joining tertiary limestones at the time of its extrusion. Occasionally, near Houssen-fakee' the rock is cellular, but generally compact, while near the coast, south of the trachyte which divides this area into two parts, it is frequently amygdaloidal and of a greenish color. The amygdules are usually chalcedony, but this substance may be enveloped in calcite, or the whole amygdule may be calcareous. The greenish groundmass, sometimes granular, contains numerous small crystals of feldspar, besides other crystals of dark-colored minerals. The rock is generally much fractured, and contains many seams of calcite. The manner in which this basaltic rock has disturbed the adjoining tertiary strata clearly indicates that the former is younger than the sedimentary rocks with which it is associated. Its relation to the trachyte, however, is not easily determined. The trachyte of that 212 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. locality is isolated from the great mass further westward, and forms the rugged hills between Kyalar and Ahmajah. The hills are ap- parently composed of large dikes of trachyte, dipping northward and presenting cliffs towards the sea. Southwest of Demearjee-kioy about two kilometres, the trachyte, with its usual strike and dip, cuts directly across the area of basaltic rocks as if it had been forced up through them in reaching the surface. Moreover, upon the south side of the trachyte it appears to overlie the basaltic rocks. Along the coast directly south of the area described, irregular dikes of basaltic rocks may be seen penetrating the tertiary strata. The same phenomena may be observed in the neighborhood of Aracle£, south of the site of Gargara. Small exposures occur also in the vicinity of Tacta-kioy (Astyra) and Zytinlee, near Edremit. At the former locality the hot springs appear to owe their origin to the presence of the basaltic rocks from which they rise. Upon the left bank of the Bahchahlee River, about fifteen kilo- metres southeast of Eanedeh, at the head of a plain rises the ma- jestic hill called Sapandjee-tepeh. It is formed of basaltic rocks containing numerous small grains of olivine. The columnar structure in the rock being well developed and nearly vertical, the slopes are very steep, and for the most part perpendicular cliffs. Upon the east- ern side, however, where the columns are much contorted, the approach to the summit is not difficult. This prominent hill, rising close to the river and standing at the head of a fertile plain, must have furnished an excellent site for an ancient city ; and the traveller is disappointed at not finding fragments of pottery or ruins upon the summit. At the southern base of Curshunlou-tepeh, the site of ancient Kebrene, by the right bank of the M6ndereh, is a small plateau of basalt containing many small crystals of feldspar and bright grains of olivine. This area appears to be quite large, extending west across the river into the hills south of Beiramitch. The largest exposure, however, which has yet been mapped within the Troad is between Bunarbashi and the valley of the Kemar (Thym- brios) River, at the southern end of the Plain of Troy. The rock is usually compact, containing numerous grains of olivine, but other min- erals are not prominent. Occasionally it is very cellular and amygda- loidal. The round and elongated amygdules are of calcite, which forms also numerous irregular veins. In the valley of the Kemar the basalt INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 213 distinctly overlies about fifteen metres of marly conglomerate and six metres of red clay, both of which are horizontal, and appear to belong to the tertiary formation. Near the mouth of the river the same basalt is overlain by horizontal red clay and shelly limestone, which appear to be younger than the rock upon which they rest. While it is evident along the southern coast that the basaltic rocks are younger than the greater portion of the tertiary strata of that region, it may be true that they were extruded before the highest beds of that series were deposited, for the basaltic rocks are not known to pierce those beds anywhere in the Southern Troad. SUMMARY. In briefly summarizing the results derived from the observations described in this preliminary Report, the rocks of the Troad may be divided into two groups. The first contains the metamorphic schists, together with their associated eruptive rocks, the granites and serpentines. In the second are placed the tertiary strata, the trachytes, and the basalts. The members of the former are very ancient and highly altered, while those of the latter are compar- atively new and fresh. The long interval of time which must have elapsed between the formation of the sedimentary rocks of the two groups has no representative among the deposits of aqueous origin in the Troad, but in other parts of Asia Minor not far distant the series is more complete. The oldest rocks of the Troad are an extensive series of coarsely crystalline limestones interstratified with micaceous and hornblen- dic schists. They constitute the basis upon which and out of which the framework of the Trojan peninsula has been developed. They are the chief mountain-forming strata of that region. The great mass of Mount Ida is composed wholly of them, and along the western coast they give rise to the prominent peak called Sacar- kyah. The structure of Mount Ida appears to be a comparatively simple anticlinal, with so short an axis, extending east and west, that the upper portion of the mountain is approximately a dome. The position and distribution of the crystalline schists and lime- stones indicate that, in the early stages of its development, the 214 ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE. peninsula of the Troad was probably represented by several islands, which furnished the detritus for subsequent formations. The extrusion of the peridotic rocks, from which the serpentines are derived, and the granites occurred some time during the long interval between the deposition of the metamorphic series and the beginning of the miocene. The most important topographical feature formed of the old eruptive rocks is the peculiar irregularly serrated ridge of Chigri- dagh, whose rough granitic slopes are the chief landmark in the Northwestern Troad. The tertiary strata of the western coast are separated from those of the interior and the shore of the Gulf of Adramyttion by a broad belt of trachyte, within which, at intervals, are numerous outcrops of the same strata extending west to within a short distance of Baba- calessi. This fact makes it very probable that beneath the sheet of trachyte which has been spread over the surface of the stratified rocks, the latter are connected so as to form one great area border- ing the entire coast of the Troad, and occupying a considerable portion of its interior. The occurrence of deposits of lignite at various places through- out this area, as well as the apparent identity of some of the fossils and the similar relations of the strata upon both sides to the divid- ing trachyte, make it probable that the stratified deposits of the entire area are essentially of the same age. Those along the shores of the Hellespont have been shown by other observers to have been deposited in fresh or brackish water during the miocene period. The eruption of the trachytes commenced shortly before the close of the miocene, first, at least in one case, from a crater, and finally through large fissures. The greatest eruption occurred after the completion of the miocene deposits, and most likely as one of the closing events of that period, when the peninsula of the Troad was, for the first time in its essentially finished form, raised above the water. The extrusion of the trachytes was accompanied by great show- ers of cinders and ashes, which furnished not only the sediment out of which the upper strata of the miocene were built, but also the material for the unstratified volcanic conglomerate so intimately mixed with the trachytes. INVESTIGATIONS AT ASSOS, 1881. 215 The peculiar drainage of the southern part of the Troad is due to the great east-and-west dikes of trachyte of which Coslou-dagh and the plateau south of the Touzla are composed. The basaltic rocks were extruded either during the latter part of the miocene or after its close, and their presence has not materially modified the topography of the country. The Halesion Plain, near the mouth of the Touzla, has been sub- ject to a considerable change, in the position of its stream, within the historical period (two thousand years). INDEX. Abbot, Mr., 12, 38. Abydos, 22. Achilles sacks Pedasos, 63. Acropolis, excavations, 29, 79. " fortifications, 122. height of, 79. Adramyttion, Gulf of, 4, 54. name of, 69. port of, 4, 5, 55. ^Eolic colonization of Assos, 66. Agora, 35, 36. Agriculture of Southern Troad, 57. Ala-Eddin, 77. Altes, 60. Antalkidas, Peace of, 72. Area of Assos, 57. Aristotle in Assos, 72. Artaxerxes III. captures Assos, 72. Assos, significance of name, 61, 62. Atarneus, 68. Athena, patron deity of Assos, 104. Athenian Confederation, 70, 71. Attalia. See Ayasmat. Attea. See Ayasmat. Austrian military map, 49, 50. Ayasmat, modern history, 3, 4. Baba. See Lecton. Baths, Greek, 123. " Roman, 39. Behram, name of, 2. village, 2. 55, 77. Boars in Southern Troad, 114. Bouleuterion, 37. Bridge, 16, 42, 128-130. Bronze tablet, 38. Carians in Troad, 59. Carlyle, Prof., 7. Chanac. See Abydos. Choiseul-Gouffier, 5, 6, 42. Christianization of Troad, 74. Chrysa, 62, 63. Cistern below Agora, 37. Clarac, M., 11. Climate of Troad, 15. Coins of Assos, 27, 57, 74. Commerce of Southern Troad, 57. Commissioner, official, 43, 44. Copeland, Commander, 9, 48. Cramer, J. A., 48. Croesus, satrap of Adramyttion, 69. Crusades, 75, 76. Custom duties, Turkish, 17. Dactyls of Ida, 6^. Deekelee. See Atarneus. Destruction of ruins, 13. Ducas, 77. Edremit. See Adramyttion. Elatos, 60. Elias, Mt. See Lepathymnos, Mt. English Admiralty, surveys of, 9, 48. Etesian winds, 20, 35. Eubulus, 72. Exedras, 127. Fanaticism of Turks, 3. Fellows, C, 11, 32. Fever, 27, 28. Firman, 21. Fischer, Von, 49. Fligier, Dr., 61. Food, 26, 27. Forbiger, A., 48. 2l8 INDEX. Fortifications, 124-126. Fountain below Agora, 37. Franks in Troad, 76. French travellers, 6. Gargara colonized, 67. Gateways, 125. Gattiiusii, 76. Gauls in Troad, 73. Genoese princes of Lesbos. See Gatti- iusii. Geography of Troad, 50, 51. Granicus, battle of, 73. Graves, Commander, 48. Greek inhabitants of Troad, 3. Greek War of Independence, 3, 29. Gymnasium, 40-41, 124. " mosaic, 124. Halesian Plain, 61, 130. Heise, C, 50. Heracleia. See Ivalee. Hermeias, 72. Historical table, 77, 78. Homer on Pedasos, 60. " on Troad, 61. Hunt, Dr., 7, 28, 32. Huyot, M., 10. Ignatius, St., in Troad, 74. Inscriptions discovered, 37, 38 Iradeh, 21, 43. Ivalee, modern history, 3, 4. " Port, 5, 55. Kenchreae, 61. Kiepert, H., 12, 49, 60. Kimonian peace, 71. Ladorers, 24, 25. Leake, 7. Lecton, fortifications, 3. " port, 4, 56. Leleges in Troad, 59-61. Lepathymnos, Mt., 24. Lydian conquest, 68, 69. Lyrnessos, 63. "G. R. L.," 12. Mahmud II. grants Assos sculptures, 11. Maps of Troad, 48-50. Marinus, Bishop of Troad, 74. Mauduit, M., 6. Maximus, Bishop of Assos, 74. Mediaeval buildings, 38. Members of expedition, 16. Memnon betrays Hermeias, 72. Mendereh. See Scamander. Mentor. See Memnon. Mesopotamian influence, 63-65. Methymna, colonists from, 66, 67. Michael VIII., coin of, 32. Michaud, M., 9. Milesians in Troad, 68. Mithridatic wars, 74. Mole of Assos, 54-56, 131. Molivo. See Methymna. Moltke, Von, 49. Mosque, 45, 122, 123. Myrsilos on Assos, 66. Mytilene, Channel of, 4. Nausiclides on Troad, 15. Necropolis, 41, 42, 126, 127. Official delays, 21. Official suspension of work, 43-45. Olivier, M., 7. Orchan, 77. Orthography of names, 2. Osten. See Prokesch. Ottoman conquest, 76. Outfit, 17. Paul, St., in Assos, 74. Pedasa, 61. Pedasis, 61. Pedasos, identical with Assos, 60-63. Peloponnesian war, 71. Pergamon, kingdom of, 73, 74. Persians in Troad, 69, 70, 71, 7 2- INDEX. 219 Phoenicians in Troad, 58, 59. Piracy, 5. Polymedion, 59. Population of Assos, 58. Poujoulat, M., 9, 122. Prokesch von Osten, 9, 32, 39. Pullan, R. P., 12. Purearitis, Prof., 12. Ramazan, 24. Raoul-Rochette, D., II. Removal of relief blocks, 46. Richter, Von, 8, 32, 40. Roads, 128, 130. Roman dominion, 73, 74. Sarcophagi, 41, 126, 127. Satnioeis, 16, 51, 61. Scamander, 16. Schliemann, 14, 50, 62. Schoenborn, A., 12. Seljukian conquest, 75. Shipwreck of outfit, 23 Sivrijee. See Polymedion. Spratt, Commander, 48. Stoa, 35. Strabo on Assos, 66. " on Pedasos, 60. Stratonicos on Assos, 130. TCHIHATCHEFF, P., 8. 49. Temple, 30-34, 79" I0 5- " architectural character, 101- 104. " capitals, 89, 90. " ceiling, 103, 104. " channelling of columns, 88, 89. " comparison with other Doric temples, 103. " corona, 92-94. " curvature of horizontals, 86. " date of construction, 100, 101. " dedicated to Athena, 104, 105. " destruction, 28, 75. " diminution of columns, 87. " door jambs, 83. " dowellings of columns, S7, 88. Temple, entasis of columns, 86, 87. " epistyle beams, 90-92. " foundations, 80-S3. gargoyle, 94. " grille between pronaos and pteroma, 89. " metopes, 92. " mosaic, S3. " orientation, 99. " pavement, 82. " pronaos, columns, 84, S5. " proportions, 98, 99. " similarity to Theseion, 103. " situation, 80. " steps, 81. " table of dimensions, 96, 97. " tiling, 95, 96. " triglyphs, 92. " unit of measurement, 97-99. " walls of naos, So, 83, 84. Temple reliefs, 32-34, 105-121. age, 119. Amor relief, 34. archaic style, 118. centaur fragment, 116. centaur, human-legged, no. compared with Etruscan bronzes, 121. discovery, 32. empaistic character, 63, 94, 119-121. Heracles and Centaurs, 107- iii. heraldic sphinxes, 111-113. lion and boar, 113, 114. lion, fragment, 115. marine monster, identifica- tion, 106. metopes, sculptured, 117. reliefs in Louvre, 105-107. sphinx fragment, 115, 116. Texier, Ch., 10, 28, 33, 99, 100, 106. Thasos, 71. Theatre, 38, 123, 124. Thebe, 63. Topography of Assos, 52, 53. Touzla. See Satnioeis. Tower, mediaeval, 122. Triangulation, 20. Trocmae in Troad, 73. 220 INDEX. Valonea, 56. View from Assos, 53. Vincke, 49. Virchow, R., 14. Volcanic origin of Acropolis, 51, 52. Wages of workmen, 25. Walpole, R., 7. Webb, P. B., 8. Wharton, Commander, 48. Witte, F. de, n. Xenocrates in Assos, 72. Ziller, E., 50. University Press : John Wilson & Son, Cambridge. RET University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. Series 9482 3 1205 02250 4813 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 878 682 4 dO