LIBRARY 
 
 
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 SUNNY MEMORIES 
 
 OF AUSTRALASIA.
 
 REV. W. CUFF. 
 
 MRS. W. CUFF.
 
 SUNNY MEMORIES 
 
 OF 
 
 AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 PLACES I SAW AND PEOPLE 1 MET. 
 
 WILLIAM CUFF, 
 
 Pastor of Shorediteh Tabernacle, London ; Ex-President of the Baptist Union 
 of Great Britain and Ireland, 
 
 LONDON : 
 JAMES CLARKE & CO., 13 & 14, FLEET STREET, E.C. 
 
 1904
 
 I 
 
 MOST RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATE 
 
 THIS LITTLE BOOK 
 TO MY KIND AND GENEROUS FRIEND, 
 
 MR. CHARLES ACKLAND, 
 
 WHO FIRST SUGGESTED MY VOYAGE 
 TO AUSTRALIA.
 
 Preface. 
 
 I AM keenly conscious of the defects and shortcomings of this 
 book, and I wish to say to all who will read it that I have made 
 no attempt at literary polish of style, as I have never written 
 but one little booklet besides this. I have tried to tell the story 
 of our long voyage as simply as possible, and my heart is in 
 it all. 
 
 There are many Colonial questions I should have discussed, 
 but that I deemed it wiser to leave them alone for the present. 
 My object was to make this a friendly and grateful record of all 
 we saw and of all the great kindness we received from so many 
 good people in every place we visited. 
 
 There are many dear friends in London, whose names I do 
 not feel at liberty to mention, to whom we owe a debt of grati- 
 tude no words can express, who generously found all we needed 
 for our long rest and change. I can only hope their reward 
 will be sweet to them each as they remember I returned to my 
 life-work restored to health and strength with years added to 
 my life. I beg to assure them my gratitude will live as long as 
 I live. 
 
 The last chapter in the book is written by my life-long 
 friend, Mr. G. H. Pike. It was his own kind suggestion, and 
 Messrs. J. Clarke & Co., the publishers, at once agreed to its being 
 put in the book. I consented to it because I thought our 
 Colonial friends would be interested in knowing something 
 of the work we have been doing hi Shoreditch for thirty-two 
 years of our life. Mr. Pike has written with an intimate know- 
 ledge of it all from the beginning until now, and I am very 
 grateful to him for all he has done with his facile pen to help 
 us. He has written many articles in magazines and news- 
 papers on our work through all the years. I am glad of this 
 opportunity of expressing my heartfelt thanks. 
 
 My own dear people at the Tabernacle deserve at my hands 
 far more than it is in my power to write. During the long
 
 8 PREFACE. 
 
 period 1 was so unwell they kindly bore with all my lack of 
 service and poor feeble efforts to do what I did and my struggle 
 to keep up the work. Then all the long months I was away, 
 they faithfully kept together and did wonders to keep the 
 Church and congregation intact. The result was I returned 
 to a united and loving people. Never did mortals have such 
 an overwhelming and enthusiastic welcome as that which 
 was given to Mrs. Cuff and myself when we came back from 
 Australia. The scene at the Tabernacle beggars all description 
 and will never be forgotten. I set down here my unbounded 
 gratitude to them as I wish it to live when I am dead and 
 gone. 
 
 Mrs. Cuff was my gentle and loving companion through 
 all our travels of over 50,000 miles of land and sea, and now we 
 join hearts in praise and thanksgiving to our heavenly Father 
 for His tender care over us in storm and calm, by night and 
 by day, and for restored health and hope for the future. We 
 send our abiding and hearty thanks to all dear friends who 
 welcomed us into their hospitable homes in the far-off lands 
 across the seas. May God ever bless them all ! 
 
 Thus I send out this little book to travel where we travelled 
 and talk to those we talked to of things past, present, and to 
 come. We pray that our glorious Colonies may ever prosper 
 and more and more become one with the dear old homeland 
 in all and everything that tends to make the Empire great, 
 united, and strong in peace, truth, and all righteousness. 
 
 W. CUFF. 
 SHOEEDITCH TABEBNACLE. 
 
 February, 1904.
 
 Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I. Why We Went 11 
 
 II. How We Got There 16 
 
 III. When We Arrived 30 
 
 IV. Where We Began 39 
 
 V. New Friends 50 
 
 VI. Our Stay in Melbourne .... 58 
 
 VII. Men and Literature 66 
 
 VIII. Melbourne Itself 77 
 
 IX. Off to Tasmania 84 
 
 X. We Go to New Zealand . . . . 93 
 
 XI. We Move on to Chris tchurch . . .111 
 
 XII. Boiling Mud, Boiling Water, Geysers, &c. . 114 
 
 XIII." Home, Sweet Home ! " . . . .122 
 
 XIV. What Happened When We Got Home . . 129 
 
 The Holy War in Shoreditch 142
 
 THE "OMRAH." 
 (The Ship in which we Sailed.) 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 WHY WE WENT. 
 
 " When ye go, ye shall come unto a people secure and to 
 a large land ; for God hath given it into your hands : a place 
 where there is no want of anything that is in the earth." 
 
 JUDGES xvm. 10. 
 
 " And they found fat pasture and good, and the land was 
 wide, and quiet, and peaceable." 1 CHKON. LV. 40. 
 
 WHAT a poor, miserable, helpless dyspeptic 
 supremely wants is to get away from himself. 
 Dyspepsia unnerves him, makes him miserable, 
 peevish, and fretful. Everybody and everything 
 is a burden and a worry to him. He is by no means 
 himself. The haunting question ever before him 
 is, Whither can I go, what can I do to get away 
 from myself ? To accomplish this he will go 
 anywhere, and do anything. 
 
 This is very natural when we think of what 
 11
 
 12 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 dyspepsia really is, and what it brings with it. 
 Here is a description taken from a popular 
 medicine book : " Impaired appetite ; flatulence ; 
 nausea and eructations, which often bring up 
 bitter or acid fluids ; foul tongue ; foul taste ; heart- 
 burn ; pain and sensation of weight or fulness, after 
 a meal ; headache ; diminished mental energy and 
 alertness ; dejection of spirits ; palpitation of the 
 heart ; and various afflictions in other organs." A 
 pretty catalogue of miseries that ! Where is the man 
 who would not run away from the whole company, 
 if possible ? 
 
 During four years these thorns in the flesh had 
 kept me close company ; they had " buffeted" me 
 day and night. In the study, in the pulpit, on 
 the platform, in the railway train, in bed, asleep, 
 awake, toiling or resting, in company and in soli- 
 tude, there was, as it were, a voice, a feeling, 
 a terror. It would persist in whispering to me 
 " You are worn out, your work is done, you must 
 give up and retire into silence and obscurity." 
 Yes, and it dragged me down to that level, till I 
 believed it was all true, and despair took the place 
 of a buoyant, hopeful soul. What Mr. Joseph 
 Hocking puts into the mouth of one of his fine char- 
 acters just suited me. It was like butter and 
 honey to my taste : " ' I think I have tried every- 
 thing now,' he said, as, with a sigh, he threw 
 himself into an armchair, and cut the end of a 
 cigar. He smoked silently a few minutes, and went 
 on thinking. ' The world's a pretty weary business,' 
 he continued presently, ' and that old cynic was 
 right when he said that life was " short and 
 dirty." All places are alike, and people are uni- 
 formly dull. I did think that African trip would
 
 WHY WE WENT. 13 
 
 have interested me, but it proved as tame as any- 
 thing else. I wish I could hit upon something 
 that would really interest me something new 
 something that would yield freshness and sweet- 
 ness. But Solomon was right : there is nothing 
 new under the sun.' " Of course, that was all non- 
 sense, but it exactly suited the vitiated taste of a 
 miserable dyspeptic. Again and again the doctor 
 was consulted. Then the diet was arranged, 
 and plainly written down, but it was not strictly 
 observed. Oh ! it was a lovely diet ! Everything 
 I liked was cut out. Everything I hated was put 
 in. This added one more misery to life, but I did 
 not brood over that mocking old question, " Is 
 life worth living ? " Just because I still thought it 
 was. 
 
 There are some lucid moments even with dys- 
 pepsia, and some good work can be done, despite 
 the condition. The doctor had often said, " A 
 spell of rest and a long voyage would set you right, 
 and add ten years to your life. You have had 
 thirty years of hard and trying work in Shoreditch. 
 It is time you had a long pause, and a change of 
 scene." But then that meant time and money. The 
 time could be managed, the money was a problem. 
 The Bank of England could solve tbe problem, 
 but I did not know that I had a friend in the midst 
 of all the gold of that place. Notwithstanding my 
 ignorance of the fact, he was there. One morning 
 a note came from this kind friend requesting to 
 see Mrs. Cuff. The interview took place, and he 
 there and then suggested a voyage to Australia, 
 and generously promised to find the money it 
 would cost, and my wife was to go too. I would not 
 have told this, but I wish to honour and glorify
 
 14 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 the Lord and Master whom I have now served 
 for over forty years. I profoundly believe He put 
 it into the heart of the gentleman to whom I have 
 referred to send us for the long rest and change 
 which we have enjoyed. Of course, I know that 
 some who will read this will mildly smile at such 
 a faith. But it remains a fact that, in spite of any 
 cold scoffs of unbelief, God hears and answers 
 prayer. I should be craven to the best instincts 
 of my life, and hush up the deepest convictions 
 of my mind, if I did not set this down with all plain- 
 ness and force. I believe there is a kind of benefi- 
 cent Providence that manages all our little affairs. 
 Jesus Christ, the purest and profoundest of all 
 teachers, says : " The very hairs of your head 
 are all numbered " (Matt. x. 30). I have ever 
 found it so, down to the minute particulars of life. 
 From my heart I wish that everyone that reads 
 this book believed this, for it is a very happy faith, 
 and by no means blind or unreasonable. It saves 
 a man from a thousand biting worries, and from 
 as many wearing cares. Whether this testimony 
 is accepted or rejected, my problem was solved, 
 and we set sail to the far-off lands of wealth and 
 wonders. 
 
 It was a fine trip from start to finish ; not one 
 hitch occurred in our tour of nearly 50,000 miles. 
 We did not go for business, or money, or pleasure, 
 but for rest and health, and we found both. I 
 started with shattered nerves, and a weary brain. 
 I returned with every nerve rested, with a mind re- 
 freshed and invigorated, and altogether a new 
 man. The dyspepsia was left on the wild and beau- 
 tiful hilla of New Zealand, or on the rolling seas 
 over which we sailed. This is written for the sake
 
 WHY WE WENT. 15 
 
 of those who may be as I was. A long voyage 
 may set them right also. It is an unspeakable 
 relief to get on board a ship, and to live where news- 
 paper, telegram, telephone, or letter cannot reach 
 one every morning. One must be quiet and restful 
 on board a ship during a long voyage. It was the 
 longest and sweetest rest I ever had, and brimful 
 of interest from first to last. There was no need 
 for a dull hour, and certainly there were hours and 
 days when everything was very lively. But, then, a 
 breeze, a squall, a gale, are one and all included 
 in the programme of the voyage ; and this diversity 
 saves all on board from any feeling of monotony. 
 It also makes room on the promenade deck and at 
 all the meals for those who do not trouble about 
 such trifles as a gale of wind. Let no one think 
 he can go down our English Channel, across 
 the Bay of Biscay, down the Mediterranean, through 
 the Red Sea and the great Indian Ocean, and over 
 the Australian Bight to Sydney without alternate 
 calm and storm, sunshine and cloud. But in 
 these are the charm and fascination of the voyage. 
 For such changes we went out. We had them in 
 great variety and plentiful abundance, and they 
 healed and helped us. We have come home rested, 
 refreshed, renewed in body and mind.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 How WE GOT THERE. 
 
 The tide is in, the breeze is fair, 
 
 The vessel under weigh ; 
 The gallant prow glides swiftly on, 
 
 And throws aside the spray ; 
 The tranquil ocean, mirror-like, 
 
 Reflects the deep blue skies : 
 And pointing to the destined course, 
 
 The straightened pennon flies. 
 
 IT was no toss or haphazard that decided us to go 
 to Australia. We quietly deliberated, and sought 
 guidance of wisdom which never errs. We also 
 resolved to try and visit New Zealand. Seeing we 
 had such a long voyage before us, we made careful 
 choice of the ship that should take us. There are 
 many vessels that sail from England to Australia, 
 and many business men and others who seek rest 
 and health constantly take the voyage. These 
 all have their favourite ships, and, as a matter of 
 course, there are no ships afloat like those they 
 choose. Our friends who were old hands at ocean 
 travelling advised us to go by this line of steamers, 
 and then by that. Then particular ships were 
 picked out, and it was said, " By all means go 
 
 by the : she never rolls, never pitches ; no, 
 
 not even in a hurricane, or a mistral, or a monsoon ! 
 The food on board is excellent, and the stewards 
 are all Al at Lloyd's." We ventured to mention 
 just the name of another company, and another 
 
 16
 
 How WE GOT THERE. 17 
 
 ship. " There is the , belonging to the 
 
 Company." That was more than enough, 
 and set our friends going. " Oh, do not go in her : 
 she rolls, and tosses, and lurches about ; she does so 
 even in smooth waters ! You will be ill before 
 you get to the Nore ! What is much more serious, 
 the cuisine on board that ship is simply abominable, 
 and the cooking is worse than the food. The stewards 
 are rude, familiar, and vulgar. The captain ! 
 Well, of course, he may be a good seaman, and 
 know how to navigate his ship, but then he is not 
 a gentleman." So on, and so on ad lib. 
 
 It naturally came to this : we had to make our 
 own choice of a ship, and we did so. We chose 
 to go on that noble vessel, the Omrah, of the Orient 
 Pacific Line. She is registered at 8,291 tons, and 
 10,000 horse-power, with twin screws. I went 
 down into and all over the engine-room, and saw 
 all the vast and mighty machinery in full work. 
 It was all explained to me by the kind and courteous 
 chief engineer. Of course, I could not understand 
 such an intricate complication of tubes, pipes, 
 spindles, cranks, pistons, etc., but I saw clearly that 
 it was a marvellous triumph of science over nature. 
 There, too, I saw brain and muscle united to secure 
 the triumph ; and there also, in that engine-room, 
 was a vivid picture of capital and labour closely 
 linked together for the wealth of our Empire, and 
 the good of mankind. It made one wish that 
 capital and labour better understood each other, 
 and were never antagonistic. 
 
 The cabins are large and ventilated as best they 
 can be. Each one has in it a small wardrobe, a 
 chest of drawers, and a place for boots. The lava- 
 tories and bath-rooms are all on the latest approved 
 
 2
 
 18 SUNNY MEMOBIES OF AUSTEALASIA. 
 
 form and principle, and are all spotlessly clean. 
 There is also a barber's shop where you can buy 
 almost anything, from a hairpin to a fancy-dress 
 coat. But apart from all the minor details of the 
 ship, the deck of the Omrah is superb. I question 
 if there is another to equal it on any ship 
 of her size. In a voyage like that to Australia, 
 a good wide, long deck is no small advantage to 
 passengers. After all that is said about the sea, 
 there is much more calm weather than rough, 
 and the deck is the place on which to live. There 
 are so many nooks and corners and sheltered spots 
 on the deck of the Omrah that one can usually get 
 into a cosy, comfortable place. In point of fact, 
 we did, and spent nearly the whole time on deck, 
 both when going out and coming home. The 
 promenade for saloon passengers is 262 feet long, 
 with a minimum width of 13 feet on each side of 
 the ship. It is much wider in places where it reaches 
 right across the ship. Ten times up and down the 
 deck measures a mile, and you can walk this be 
 the weather wet or dry, smooth or rough. In the 
 latter case, you require only a pair of good sea 
 legs. The promenade deck is covered by a boat 
 deck, and is thus sheltered from sun and rain. 
 This upper boat deck is free to saloon passengers, 
 and is thirty- two feet above the sea. It makes a 
 most delightful place to sit, in all moderate weather. 
 Our voyage out was full of variety and interest. 
 We got through the dreaded Bay of Biscay with 
 a little rough weather, but this was even quite 
 refreshing after the smoothness of the Channel. 
 We had just enough sea to show us how well our 
 good ship would behave herself when the wind 
 should howl and hiss in her rigging, and seas run
 
 How WE GOT THEKE. 19 
 
 high at her bow. Even that came, further on, and 
 she kissed one wave, sneezed at the next, and 
 then, with majesty and might, mounted and rode 
 them all. I stood on the deck and watched her be- 
 haviour till I thrilled with wonder at the power 
 and glory of the sea, and the wit and skill of man 
 which makes even the ocean to become his good 
 servant. To many such a sight would be common- 
 place, if not misery ; but it filled me with reverence,, 
 awe, and inspiration. Again and again I thought 
 of what a great saint andsinger once wrote : 
 
 The storm has broken and the heavy blast. 
 
 That stifled morn's free breath and shook its dew, 
 Is dying into sunshine ; and the last 
 
 Cold cloud has vanished from yon arch of blue> 
 And yet I joy as storm on storm awakes ; 
 
 Not that I love the uproar or the gloom, 
 But in each tempest over earth that breaks, 
 
 I count one fewer outburst yet to come. 
 
 We called at Gibraltar, and had time to go 
 ashore and see the quaint and curious old place. 
 It was intensely interesting to see the many 
 nationalities represented by men and women in 
 the long, narrow street that leads to the markets. 
 We thought of battles that had been fought, and 
 of the blood that had been shed to secure that 
 one spot of earth. We knew that the old Rock 
 and every hill around was full of soldiers, guns 
 and all manner of munitions of war. At last we 
 had seen the place about which we had heard 
 and read so much. Another dream of life was 
 realised as we weighed anchor, and sailed out 
 into the classic Mediterranean. It was a glorious 
 day, and we had a magnificent view of the grand 
 old Rock and all its surroundings. We were soon
 
 20 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 at Marseilles, for the weather was perfect and 
 the sea smooth. We had a good long day here, 
 and so had time to drive round and see the town. 
 This is one of the great advantages of going by 
 one of a line of ships that puts hi at such beautiful 
 and historic ports. 
 
 Our ' next port was Naples. The weather kept 
 lovely, and in less than two days we dropped 
 anchor in the beautiful Bay of Naples. The din 
 round the ship began as if by magic, and soon 
 became unbearable. Then the coaling of the 
 vessel began. At once something else was added 
 to the noise. My good friend, Rev. J. G. Green- 
 hough, describes this operation better than I can, 
 so that I venture to quote what he says : 
 " Early in the day the coaling began. Four 
 barges laden with the precious material came 
 alongside the ship. Each of the barges brings, 
 standing on the coal, about eighty sparsely-clad 
 men, black as Cyclops from the forge, and sugges- 
 tive of something much less earthly. The 
 coal is chiefly dust, and at each breath of wind 
 becomes dust with wings, flying noiselessly every- 
 where. Quickly the Cyclopean gentry get to 
 work, shovelling, filling baskets, carrying, empty- 
 ing, and returning. An interminable procession 
 of lost spirits, such as Dante might have pictured 
 in his Inferno. Meanwhile, the black dust rises 
 and spreads and grows thicker and more palpable. 
 It is ubiquitous, penetrating, irresistible. It 
 darkens the air, hides the mountains far off, covers 
 the city with a thick veil or funereal pall. Again 
 I envy the few wise passengers who elected to 
 go ashore." 
 
 That description is surely enough to persuade
 
 How WE GOT THERE. 21 
 
 future passengers to go ashore wherever coaling 
 operations take place. We did so, and came 
 back in the evening to a nice clean and quiet 
 ship. When the ship was coaled again at Port 
 Said we remained on board, because no one was 
 allowed to land ; but as the wind was in the 
 right quarter, we suffered little or no inconvenience. 
 The jabber, and din, and noise were the worst. 
 There are worse things at sea than coaling the 
 ship, especially if you are a saloon passenger, 
 and the wind blows direct from stem to stern. In 
 that case the second-class passengers get all the 
 benefit of the black dust. 
 
 We had a beautiful passage from Naples to Port 
 Said. It was glorious weather, and poetical scenery 
 was right and left of us nearly all the way. Almost 
 every mile was over classical waters. Every 
 scene of sea and land was full of memories of 
 mighty men and momentous historical events. 
 Poets, philosophers, historians, sages, soldiers, and 
 sailors have all been here. In their crazy crafts 
 they sailed over these very seas, and wrought 
 wonders in the earth. The three days' sail from 
 Naples to Port Said was like a delicious dream 
 in some fairyland, full of wonders, enchantments, 
 and revelations. Memory brings it back to us 
 in form and beauty, fact and fable, visions and 
 reality. After a few hours at Port Said we entered 
 the famous Suez Canal. No, it was not mono- 
 tonous to me ; it was full of wonder and fun. 
 There were strange things to boot, but they 
 mingled then very well there. We saw great 
 plains studded with trees and bushes, with strangely 
 coloured hills as a background. Then came a 
 view of the sea, and the tide was flowing fast.
 
 22 SUNNY MEMORIES OP AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 One man took my field-glass, and declared he 
 could see it running along a fine, sandy beach, 
 and there were rocks in the water farther out. 
 One man added he could see a gentleman's man- 
 sion. It was very large, with a white front, as 
 the sunshine was on it. Had I been a sporting 
 man, I might have bet any man on earth anything 
 he liked that I could, there and then, see a river 
 of water, with well-defined banks covered with 
 trees ! We stood on the deck in a little group, 
 and we were all quite confident about what we 
 were looking at. At length, one infinitely stupid 
 fellow said, " We keep on going, and yet all we 
 see keeps at the same distance from us, and the 
 things keep on changing. I can't see that mansion 
 now. Neither can I see the river and the trees." 
 Some might have been tempted to throw that 
 man overboard. The bare suggestion that we 
 were in any way deceived was shocking. Indeed, 
 some of us had an idea of requesting the captain 
 to put the man hi irons for a rude hint to such 
 experienced and well-read gentlemen ! 
 
 But all we saw was only a mirage, the com- 
 mon mirage of the desert. And what is that ? 
 Here is a definition, and I give it word for 
 word : 
 
 "It is difficult to ascertain exactly what is the 
 condition of the atmosphere when multiple images, 
 mirage, etc., are seen ; and it is obvious from the 
 remarks and illustrations already given that many 
 very different arrangements will produce sensibly 
 the same results to a spectator in a given position. 
 Comparison of the appearances seen simultaneously 
 by a great number of scattered observers is the 
 only way we can expect to obtain definite informa-
 
 How WE GOT THERE. 23 
 
 tion on such a point. ... To find, then, the 
 various rays by which a distant object near the 
 horizon can be seen, all that we have to do is to 
 draw the curve of vertices which passes through 
 the eye of the spectator, and to find the points in 
 which it is intersected by a vertical line situated 
 midway between the object and the eye. Each of 
 these points is the vertex of a ray by which the 
 object is seen. When the curve of vertices leans 
 forward towards the eye at one of these points, two 
 contiguous rays cross one another, and an inverted 
 image is seen ; when it leans from the eye they do 
 not cross, and the image is erect. . . . When 
 there is no intersection we have only the direct 
 image ; but when there are two intersection* a 
 distant ship will be seen as usual through the 
 lower, uniform air, while there will be seen above 
 it an inverted image, and then a direct image, 
 both due to the stratum. This form of mirage is 
 commonly seen at sea. When there is no stationary 
 value of the index at the upper boundary, the 
 upper erect image is not given by the stratum. 
 This arrangement, however, turned upside down, 
 explains the ordinary mirage of the desert where 
 we see objects directly through the nearly uniform 
 air at some distance above the sand, but also an 
 inverted image (suggesting reflection from a pool 
 or lake) formed by the refraction in the hot layer 
 of air near the sand." 
 
 I have taken that passage from The Encyclo- 
 paedia Britannica, vol. xiv., p. 600. Surely it is 
 all simple enough for a philosopher, and clear 
 enough for a metaphysician. It reminds me of a 
 definition of metaphysics I have seen somewhere, 
 as being like looking for a lost hat in a densely
 
 24 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTEALASIA. 
 
 dark cellar without any sort of light the hat not 
 being found, because it was not there. Still, not- 
 withstanding the above explanation, we did see the 
 mirage of the desert as we passed through the Suez 
 Canal. 
 
 The passage through the Canal is made partly 
 by day and partly by night. At night they put 
 on a powerful electric light, with a strong reflector, 
 right on the bow of the ship. This casts a bright 
 beam a long way ahead, and everything in the 
 Canal is plainly seen. The banks look like banks 
 of snow, and all around seems weird, if not ghostly. 
 It was to us intensely interesting as we quietly 
 crawled from one sea to the other. We passed 
 Ismailia in the night, and reached Suez early in 
 the morning. We were soon down the Gulf of 
 Suez, and into the Red Sea. No one on board 
 will ever forget the heat of those three or four 
 days. It was not merely or only heat ; it was 
 the kind of heat that was most trying. It did 
 not fry or frizzle or roast you ; it melted, and 
 mauled, and stuck you to everything. It was as 
 though thin liquid glue oozed out of every pore 
 of your skin, and then came into contact with 
 more of the same stuff in the atmosphere, and on 
 every rail and spar, and board and seat of the ship. 
 I find I wrote in my diary on September 13 (we 
 were then in about the middle of the Red 
 Sea) : 
 
 " I have not been able to do anything all day. 
 I can't read, or write, or sit still, or walk about. 
 Oh, for a frost, and some snow, a storm, a blizzard, 
 and anything except this nasty, sticky, slimy, 
 insufferable heat ! " 
 
 One could not help thinking of Coleridge's
 
 How WE GOT THERE. 25 
 
 Ancient Mariner, and his weird visions and feelings, 
 as the ship sped on : 
 
 The very deep did rot, Christ ! 
 
 That ever this should be, 
 Yea, slimy things did crawl with legs, 
 
 Upon a slimy sea. 
 About, about, in reel and rout, 
 
 The death-flies danced at night ; 
 The water, like a witch's oils, 
 
 Burnt green, and blue, and white. 
 And every tongue, through utter drought, 
 
 Was withered at the root ; 
 We could not speak, no more than if 
 
 We had been choked with soot. 
 
 Our good captain was bright and cheerful as a 
 sanguine child through it all. He confidently 
 promised us relief, and told us we should soon 
 pass out of the Red Sea and be in the Indian 
 Ocean, where fresh breezes would blow, and it 
 would be cooler and better. We all plucked up 
 courage, and gasped, and sweated, and waited. 
 On went the good ship, and we passed Perim, 
 and got out into the wide, wide sea. 
 
 And soon there breathed a wind on me, 
 
 Nor sound nor motion made ; 
 Its path was not upon the sea, 
 
 In ripple or in shade. 
 It raised my hair, it fanned my cheek 
 
 Like a meadow-gale at Spring ; 
 It mingled strangely with my fears, 
 
 Yet it felt like a welcoming. 
 Swiftly, swiftly flew the ship, 
 
 Yet she sailed softly too : 
 Swiftly, swiftly blew the breeze, 
 
 On me alone it blew. 
 
 Yes, it seemed like that ; it was so sweet and
 
 26 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 welcome ; but it blew on us all, and we all breathed 
 more freely ; we began to live again. 
 
 We were soon in the September monsoons, with 
 plenty of wind and rain, and seas running high. 
 The change was most refreshing and delightful. 
 This is one of the benefits and blessings of a long 
 sea voyage ; you do get a change in more ways 
 than one. There is infinite variety to anyone 
 with his faculties awake, and his eyes open ; but 
 it did rain as I had never seen it rain before. 
 There had been some such downfall in England, 
 but never rain like this ! I had no fear of being 
 drowned in the water under us, but I was not 
 at all sure the ship and all would not be utterly 
 washed away by water from above. Oh, it did 
 rain ! It washed the masts, the ropes, the boats, 
 the davits and the decks ! Indeed, it washed 
 everything but the inside of the ship. Yet we 
 had lovely days of sunshine and breeze, and 
 pure air that brought health and hope to 
 us all. 
 
 " Imagine a pleasant breeze from the north- 
 east, a warm air that rarely gets much above 
 80, and that is never chilly even in early morning ; 
 a climate in which you can sit on deck all day and 
 all night without wraps, and yet never be oppressed 
 by the heat, a dancing sea, and a blue sky dotted 
 over with beautiful small rocky clouds, and you 
 have a faint idea of the charm of this part of the 
 voyage." * 
 
 In due course we reached Colombo, where we 
 stayed a whole day. We did not like Colombo ; 
 it abounds with beggars, loafers, and swindlers 
 of every description. Yet it is fast becoming of 
 
 * " Seas and Skies in Many Latitudes," by Abercromby, page 47.
 
 How WE GOT THERE. 27 
 
 the greatest importance to the commerce, morals, 
 and religions of the world. Its gardens are sur- 
 passingly beautiful ; there are miles of loveliness 
 all round the place ; but we felt glad to get out of it. 
 We drove through a series of native villages up 
 to Mount Lavinia ; and here is a beautiful place 
 indeed. The hotel is built on a little rocky knoll, 
 jutting out into the sea. From all the front of 
 the house and gardens you get a magnificent out- 
 look upon the expanse of the Indian Ocean. All 
 the big liners pass here to and from England, 
 India, Australia, etc. When it is stifling and hot 
 in Colombo, it is cool and fresh here. We spent a 
 very pleasant day at Mount Lavinia, and returned 
 to our floating palace in the evening. Another 
 delightful and health-giving change in the long 
 voyage. 
 
 On the way from Colombo to Fremantle we 
 had some more monsoon business ; and there was 
 plenty of it, sometimes with a little to spare. It was 
 also very hot as we crossed the Line. The course is 
 just one straight line from Colombo to Fremantle, 
 more than three thousand miles long. For ten 
 days there is nothing to look at but one vast 
 expanse of sky and sea. We hardly saw a bird; 
 no shark, no whale, no ghostly sea monster came 
 within vision. A hundred whales, and as many 
 sharks, in battle array, and then in deadly con- 
 flict, would have been quite interesting. At 
 least, there was one man on board who would 
 have enjoyed it ; but they did not come, and 
 we saw no fight. One day passed much as 
 another ; yet I did not have a slow, dull hour all 
 the way. 
 
 We arrived at Fremantle early in the morning,
 
 28 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 and had a good day on shore. There were many 
 Colonials on board, going home after the Coronation. 
 As the Australian coast loomed into vision, they 
 hailed it with as much patriotic enthusiasm as 
 an Englishman would hail the Land's End after a 
 long absence from home. At Fremantle we were 
 to have our first Australian dinner. We had 
 become quite friendly with two born and bred 
 Colonials. They were returning home to Sydney 
 with their son Foster. We shall treasure their 
 friendship as long as we live, and we are now proud 
 to call Mr. and Mrs. Taylor, of Sydney, our dear 
 friends. They were kindness itself all through 
 the voyage, and when we reached Sydney. Nothing 
 was too much to do for us, and I record it here with 
 abiding gratitude. Well, Mrs. Taylor promised 
 us for days that when we got to Fremantle we 
 should go to Perth, and have a proper Colonial 
 dinner. It was to be such a one as we poor old 
 Englanders cannot provide. To Perth we went, 
 and the dinner we had. What a dinner it was ! 
 Would the gentle reader like to know the menu ? 
 He must go to Perth and dine, to know all that. 
 It was a fine let-up from the ship, and a high en- 
 joyment for us all. We had at last trod Australian 
 soil, and eaten an Australian dinner, to Mrs. Taylor's 
 positive delight. Our long spells without a pause 
 were now over. There were only a few short runs 
 and we should be at Sydney. We were soon round 
 the point of Cape Leeuwin. It is called by that 
 name after the Dutch ship (the Lioness) by which 
 it was first rounded in 1682. On this famous head- 
 land is a fine lighthouse, 135 feet high. It is 158 
 miles from Cape Leeuwin to the dreaded Australian 
 Bight. We were told all manner of dreadful
 
 How WE GOT THEEE. 29 
 
 things about this Bight. " The Bay of Biscay was 
 a millpond as compared with it. The wind always 
 blew a terrific gale here. Mighty billows always 
 rolled in from the Southern Sea. It was a miracle 
 that the biggest ship afloat ever got across safely, 
 etc., etc." We entered it with awe and wonder, 
 but not with fear. It was very kind and good to us. 
 As we sailed merrily on, the seas got larger and 
 higher, and it looked like being rough. There 
 were very grand and rolling seas. But our good 
 ship Omrah mounted and rode them with majesty 
 and might. It was a most inspiring sight to 
 watch her manage and master every majestic 
 wave. Again we had a refreshing change from 
 the tameness of a smooth sea. 
 
 We reached Port Adelaide up to time, dropped 
 anchor in the Bay, and remained there most of the 
 day. We did not go ashore, as it was a rough day, 
 so we did not see the beautiful city of Adelaide 
 till our return. More of that anon. 
 
 Our next short run was to Melbourne, and in two 
 days we were there. We arrived early in the morn- 
 ing, and had a good long day, which was our first 
 peep of wonderful, beautiful Melbourne. In three 
 days more we rounded the Heads into Sydney 
 Harbour, and our long and happy voyage on the 
 Omrah was at an end. From beginning to end 
 it was a grand and glorious trip over 12,636 miles 
 of all sorts of seas. I have thus tried to tell any 
 who may read this book how we got to the land of 
 wealth and wonders.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 WHEN WE ARRIVED. 
 
 Friendship is power and riches all to me ; 
 Friendship's another element of life : 
 Water and fire are not of more general use, 
 To the support and comfort of the world, 
 Then Friendship to the being of the joy ; 
 I would do everything to serve a Friend. 
 
 WE did not know what might come to us when 
 we arrived at Melbourne or Sydney. Certainly, 
 we had no definite plans, and no idea of how we 
 should stop in either or any place. The mystery 
 was soon solved ; the uncertainty quickly vanished. 
 Two gentlemen met us at Port Melbourne, and 
 just as the ship came alongside the dock, and 
 before she was made fast, I heard a stentorian 
 voice call out my own name as I leaned on the 
 rail of the vessel. This was music to me in that 
 far-off land. One of these gentlemen bears a 
 good old English name William Clark, an old 
 college chum, and now a Baptist minister in 
 Melbourne, honoured and beloved by all who 
 know him. Twenty-seven years had passed since 
 we had seen each other ; and to me it was pathetic 
 to meet again. I think it was so to him also, for 
 drops of English dew were in his eyes as we two 
 Britons shook hands once more. 
 
 The other gentleman was Rev. S. P. Carey, 
 of Collins Street, Melbourne. He had not been 
 in Victoria long, and I knew him before he 
 
 30
 
 WHEN WE AEEIVED. 31 
 
 went out, and he met me as though we were 
 brothers born of one mother, and brought up in 
 one family. The greeting was hearty, sincere, and 
 tender. Subsequent events proved this, for no 
 man ever treated another better than Mr. Carey 
 treated me ; he flung his heart and his home open 
 to us, and we had a right glorious time. 
 
 But now we were in Melbourne, and had only 
 one day to spend there before moving on. How 
 should we spend it ? First we walked through 
 one or two of the main streets, and got just a 
 glimpse of the city ; and then we went through 
 the public gardens on our way to Mr. Carey's 
 house. I shall never forget that walk through 
 that park. It was early spring just like an 
 English April. I at once noticed some English 
 oaks and elms, which were just putting forth their 
 young, tender leaves. The pure, fresh, light green 
 was exquisite, and deeply touched me. The 
 sight instantly flung me back across the seas to 
 my native village, and to " home and England 
 dear." I thought of father and mother, who 
 sleep in the little village churchyard amongst 
 the oaks and elms there ; and then of boyhood 
 days, and the young, fresh feelings of early youth. 
 I was not in Melbourne, but in Gloucestershire, 
 thousands of miles away. All at once a good 
 old-fashioned English blackbird broke the silence 
 with its loud, shrill note, which went to my heart, 
 for I passionately love the songs of our wild birds. 
 I was born where they sing their sweetest, purest 
 notes. Here, in what was to me a strange and 
 far-away city, the bird and song of my childhood 
 greeted us, and warbled and echoed through the 
 trees, and it seemed like the music of heaven. I
 
 32 SUNNY MEMORIES or AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 had a lump in my throat, but managed to say to 
 my friend, " Ah, Clark, do you hear that ? It is 
 an English singer, and imported, too. You hadn't 
 got such a singer as that in Australia till someone 
 brought it over." To me it was pathetic and 
 beautiful ; I felt I was in a strange city, in a 
 strange land, yet it was all English, all homelike, 
 all friendly, all delightful. Lines come to me now 
 that did not come then, but they express exactly 
 what I felt on that first day in Melbourne. Some- 
 body in Australia, or New Zealand, may read 
 them with a tear in their eyes if I set them down : 
 
 I miss the dear paternal dwelling 
 Which mem'ry still undimmed recalls, 
 
 A thousand early stories telling, 
 I miss the venerable walls. 
 
 I miss the chamber of my childhood, 
 I miss the shade of boyhood's tree, 
 
 The glen, the path, the cliff, the wild-wood, 
 The music of the well-known sea. 
 
 I miss the well-remembered faces, 
 
 The voices, forms of fresher days ; 
 Time ploughs not up these deep-drawn traces, 
 
 These lines no ages can erase. 
 
 We were soon at Mr. Carey's house, and there 
 we spent our first day in Melbourne. We sat on 
 the lawn, and the stillness and quietude of the 
 garden, after six weeks at sea, was a delicious 
 sensation. Never did three men have such a 
 feast of fellowship as we three did that day ; it 
 was all too short, but it will never be forgotten. 
 About Melbourne more anon. 
 
 We returned to the ship in the evening, and 
 weighed anchor and started for Sydney. Again 
 we knew not what awaited us, but on arriving
 
 WHEN WE ARRIVED. 33 
 
 there we found every possible arrangement had 
 been made for our comfort. It was a perfect 
 spring morning when we rounded the Heads and 
 sailed up the lovely Sydney Harbour. We had 
 heard all manner of descriptions of this most 
 famous harbour some mild, some exaggerated, 
 and some wild and stupid. We expected much ; 
 we found more than we expected. It is too 
 grand, picturesque, and wonderful to describe ; no 
 language is adequate for this. We had a perfect 
 view from one end to the other as we stood on 
 the upper deck of the Omrah. Afterwards we saw 
 much more of the harbour, and the better we 
 knew it, the more lovely and wonderful it became. 
 The many little headlands, small bays, nooks and 
 corners ; well-wooded banks, all dotted with 
 beautiful houses and gardens, festooned and 
 covered with flowers ; then opening rivers and 
 fresh expanses of water all go to make it mar- 
 vellous, delightful, enchanting. It is quite good 
 enough for angels, and too good for man. Mr. 
 Anthony Trollope was so struck with the beauty 
 and wonder of this harbour that he says : "I 
 despair of being able to convey to any reader 
 my own idea of the beauty of Sydney Harbour. 
 I have seen nothing equal to it in the way of land- 
 locked scenery ; nothing second to it. Dublin 
 Bay, the Bay of Spezia, New York, and the Cove 
 of Cork are picturesquely fine. Bantry Bay, with 
 its nooks of sea running up to Glengariff, is very 
 lovely. But they are not equal to Sydney, either 
 in shape, in colour, or in variety. It is so inex- 
 pressibly lovely that it makes a man ask himself 
 whether it would not be worth his while to move 
 his household goods to the eastern coast of 
 
 3
 
 34 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Australia, in order that he might look at it as 
 long as he can look at anything." 
 
 One of the many marvels of this harbour is 
 the good depth of water. The huge liners go right 
 up to the end, which is close to the city. We 
 observed a man-of-war not far away, so there 
 was depth enough for her. We dropped our anchor 
 a little way below the landing-stage, and our dear 
 friends came on board to meet and greet and wel- 
 come us. Amongst them was my dear old college 
 chum, Rev. F. H. Hibberd ; and the sight of him 
 brought back to memory that great and good 
 man, C. H. Spurgeon, and the days when we were 
 young. Our joy was intense and real as we met 
 once more. The years had told on us both ; but 
 there was the same heart and the same faith 
 in us both. We had not turned aside to 
 "old wives' fables," or forsaken "the faith once 
 for all delivered to the saints." Early days of 
 life, and friends of both, as it were, lived again, 
 fresh and fragrant as a spring day. We had no 
 regrets, no remorse, over a misspent life ; our cup 
 was full of joy, and we rejoiced together once 
 more. 
 
 With Mr. Hibberd was Rev. C. Rose, now of 
 Sydney, who kindly took us to his house for the 
 day, as we were going on to Queensland on the 
 morrow. On our way we got a peep at Sydney, 
 and at once saw it was quite a modern, up-to-date 
 city. The streets were full of busy, bustling people, 
 and the electric tramcars whizzed and hummed 
 everywhere, in a desperate hurry to go anywhere 
 and everywhere. We felt the throb of a strenuous 
 city life, and everybody looked well-to-do. We 
 had a ride in a good old-fashioned 'bus, a great 

 
 WHEN WE AERIVED. 35 
 
 deal the worse for wear, and the poor horses 
 matched the 'bus very well. Presently we arrived 
 at Mr. Rose's house, and found Mrs. Rose, who 
 came from a little village in Buckinghamshire. I 
 knew her grandmother, and slept in her house near 
 Princes Risborough in 1864. I had gone to the 
 village to preach, and the good old soul entertained 
 me. It was in an old farmhouse, and on one of 
 the wildest nights that ever howled and stormed 
 on the hills of Buckinghamshire. With Mrs. Rose 
 I got the first clear idea of the fact that Australia 
 is peopled mainly with those who went out from 
 the villages and towns of the Old Country. We 
 soon found this was the case wherever we went. 
 The one thing they all persisted in talking about 
 was the Old Country and the old folks at home. 
 It was truly pathetic to see how the heart turned 
 evermore to the old homestead, in cottage or farm 
 so far away. No talk charmed and thrilled them 
 like this. As I know England and Wales so well, 
 I could tell them something of almost every place, 
 even to remote villages. The old men wept as 
 they asked me, " Do you know such a place, and 
 Mr. So-and-so ? Is he still alive ? " If I answered 
 " Yes, I know the place and the person ; he was 
 alive and well when I left England," there would 
 follow all sorts of messages, which, of course, were 
 impossible to remember. Never did a man need 
 a shorthand writer at his elbow more than I did 
 everywhere we went. But all this was full of 
 interest and pathos to me, and the farther we went 
 the more it increased. Well, Mrs. Rose and I 
 talked on, and we spent the day more at Princes 
 Risborough than at Sydney. 
 We were told that Sydney Harbour at night is
 
 36 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 one of the sights of the world. We were there to 
 see all we could ; and as soon as it was dark we 
 started for the harbour. Never shall we forget the 
 scene as it broke on our view from Circular Quay. 
 The harbour seemed lit up with all kinds of varie- 
 gated lights. They moved about on the water 
 like coloured ghosts, some going one way and some 
 another, and crossing and recrossing each other's 
 pathway. They glided about like fairies dressed 
 in all the colours of the rainbow. It all looked 
 weird and unearthly, yet it was enchanting and 
 beautiful. These moving lights were little lamps 
 on the small steamers that run up and down and 
 all over the harbour all day, and till late at night- 
 They are keenly appreciated and much used by 
 the people of Sydney. Of course, we had a run 
 in one of them, and went the whole length of the 
 harbour, to a lovely and snug little place called 
 Manley. It is a beautiful cove at the back of the 
 north head of the harbour, and stands on a tongue 
 of land only a few hundred yards wide, on the 
 outside edge of which rolls and roars the mighty 
 Pacific Ocean. The main thoroughfare in the 
 little town runs straight from the steamer to the 
 sea beach ; and as we walked down the street in 
 the darkness, the whole place seemed to be quiet 
 enough for the dead. But we saw there were 
 plenty of good shops, then all closed, and the street 
 was well studded with trees. There was a lovely 
 sandy beach, and a good rough sea was dashing 
 and thundering on the sand. That night trip 
 down Sydney Harbour, with lights from innumer- 
 able houses, on countless knolls, and the lights on 
 the little steamers flitting everywhere about it, 
 will never be forgotten as long as we live. The
 
 WHEN WE ARRIVED. 37 
 
 vision plays its fantastic forms before me even 
 now. We returned to our host's, and wondered 
 what next would cross our path. 
 
 Early on the morrow we were again on board 
 the good ship Omrah to trans-ship our luggage to a 
 coaster going to Queensland. The first place at 
 which we intended to tarry was Brisbane, where a 
 dear old English friend was the Baptist bishop (alas, 
 he has died since we were there), who had been 
 pastor of the Baptist church there for many years, 
 and had done a splendid work in the city. A day 
 or so before he left England, many years ago, we 
 parted in Farringdon Street, London. We were 
 now to meet in his own house at Brisbane. We 
 intended to stop there for a fortnight. All our 
 movements were now beginning to take shape and 
 form, and we saw we should be some time in the 
 Australasian Colonies. 
 
 Our good friend, Mr. Taylor, of Sydney, had 
 booked a cabin for us on board a ship called the 
 Lura. She was a poor, small boat, as compared 
 with the Omrah, and we soon found the difference 
 between the behaviour of a good, big ship and that 
 of a small one. The room and comfort of the 
 one are vastly different from the other. 
 
 I am giving my experience in this long trip for 
 the benefit of others who may travel over the same 
 route. These details may appear trivial, but it is 
 from the details of a voyage that misery or comfort 
 comes. If I may offer a bit of advice, I would 
 say, Let nothing prevent you from seeing with 
 your own eyes all your luggage taken from one ship 
 to the other when you change ships. I saw ours 
 put on the tender alongside the Omrah, but I did 
 not see it put on board the Lura : I trusted the
 
 38 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 man to do it. The result was some of the luggage 
 went on board the Lura, and the rest on board 
 another boat that was also going to Brisbane. 
 The very things we wanted most were not on our 
 boat : my top-coat and all the wraps and rugs 
 were missing, and these we did sorely need on the 
 voyage. We had all sorts of weather ; it was very 
 cold as we steamed away north ; there were wild 
 storms of rain and hail till the hailstones covered 
 the deck. We were cold and miserable, as there 
 was not much shelter on the deck. We felt it 
 the more after all the heat we had passed through, 
 and hence I say to all travellers, see after your 
 luggage, and trust no one, tip or no tip, for service 
 done, or supposed to be done.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 WHEEE WE BEGAN. 
 
 Is it worth while that we jostle a brother, 
 Bearing his load on the rough road of life ? 
 
 Is it worth while that we jeer at each other, 
 In blackness of heart that we war to the knife ? 
 God pity us all in our pitiful strife. 
 
 God pity us all as we jostle each other ; 
 God pardon us all for the triumph we feel 
 
 When a fellow goes down 'neath his load on the heather, 
 Pierced to the heart. Words are keener than steel, 
 And mightier far for woe than for weal. 
 
 Were it not well, in this brief little journey 
 On over the isthmus, down into the tide, 
 
 We give him a fish instead of a serpent, 
 Ere folding his hands to be and abide 
 For ever and aye in dust at his side. 
 
 WE duly arrived at Brisbane, safe and sound, and 
 found the colony a land of drought. What havoc 
 and destruction the drought had wrought over the 
 land ! As we steamed up the long river from the 
 sea to the city, the fields were as brown as an oak 
 board ; the gardens of the pretty little houses 
 were all withered and dead ; there were no sheep 
 or cattle in the fields, and vegetables were more 
 scarce than champagne. The most of the horses 
 that were about appeared to be famished and 
 half-dead. Of course, there were exceptions, as 
 some of them looked as though they lived in a land 
 of plenty. 
 
 But the smart little city did not look as though 
 there was any drought. We found it full of all 
 sorts of business, with first-class modern shops, 
 
 39
 
 40 SUNNY MEMORIES or AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 having up-to-date fittings of every description. 
 Electric tramcars ran through all the main streets, 
 from the centre to the utmost bounds of the city 
 and far out into the country, for a very small 
 charge. I soon saw that here there was almost a 
 perfect tram system, and the cars travelled faster 
 than any I have ever seen. Glasgow tramcar 
 system is next to perfect, but I think Brisbane 
 beats it. We were soon carried all over and all 
 round the place for a very little money. But oh, 
 it was too hot to move, to eat, to sleep, or to live ! 
 I think it would almost have boiled an egg and 
 frizzled bacon in the street. Our friends assured 
 us it was nothing to what it is in their summer. 
 Well, that may be ; still, I sighed for a blizzard and 
 a frost. It did not come while we were there ; 
 perhaps they have had the pleasure of both since 
 we left ; and, to say the least of it, that would be 
 a change. The coolest place in Brisbane was on 
 the cars, which are quite open at the sides, with 
 a covering overhead, so that you get all the air 
 while being sheltered from the sun. 
 
 Our dear friend, Rev. W. Whale, whom I have 
 above called the Baptist bishop, has a beautiful 
 manse, which stands close to the Tabernacle. The 
 Tabernacle is a fine building standing on the top 
 of a little hill right above the city. It is a very 
 prominent object, and can be seen from afar, being 
 quite an imposing building outside, and inside 
 it is neat and comfortable. Altogether, it is a 
 place of worship of which Brisbane may well be 
 proud. 
 
 Here we had our first experience of " a Recep- 
 tion " ; and we had much more of the same sort 
 of experience as we went on, but this was the first.
 
 WHERE WE BEGAN. 41 
 
 The ministers and deacons of the churches in and 
 around the city met and welcomed us, when there 
 were some very kind speeches, and many references 
 to the Old Country, from which nearly all present 
 had come out. I responded. We shall never 
 forget this first reception by our brethren of all 
 the Free Churches in Brisbane. It was a right 
 good time of hearty fellowship and exchange of 
 thought about Church life in the old and new 
 countries. The ministers were quite abreast with 
 all that was going on at home ; for even away 
 here in Queensland the Education Bill, then before 
 the House of Commons, was the burning question. 
 All the leading men either spoke about it in their 
 speeches or asked me questions about it. In 
 every town we visited, right away from Brisbane 
 to Auckland, in New Zealand, this was the question 
 in which they were absorbed. In every place 
 there was but one opinion about the Bill, so far as 
 the Free Churchmen were concerned, and that was 
 that it is an unjust and persecuting measure. In 
 every meeting I attended, sympathy with the 
 Nonconformists at home was intense, enthusiastic, 
 and unanimous. 
 
 The railways in Queensland are under the Gov- 
 ernment, and there is, of course, " a Minister of 
 Railways." Our old friend Mr. Whale introduced 
 me to this Government official. These gentlemen 
 are much easier of access in the Colonies than our 
 Government officials are here at home. They are 
 freer, more genial, and there is very little officialism 
 about them. When we reached the office we were 
 very cordially received by Mr. Way, the Minister 
 for Railways, and we soon got to business. Pre- 
 vious to our visit, Mr. Whale had written to this
 
 42 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 gentleman, asking for a railway pass for Mrs. Cuff 
 and myself. After a little inquiry about whither we 
 wished to go and the object of our visit to the colony, 
 a first-class pass was very kindly handed to us for 
 the whole system in Queensland. Sleeping-cars 
 were also added, so that we could travel by night 
 as well as day. I put this in my book with sincere 
 and abiding gratitude. The pass was given in 
 such a kind and genial manner that I think it 
 worthy of a record here. 
 
 From Brisbane we had our first long railway ride 
 through the Bush. We started for Bundaberg and 
 Bingera, to see the sugar plantations and inquire 
 into the vexed question of white and black labour. 
 The Labour Party in Australia protest against 
 black men being employed, and argue for " a white 
 Australia." This is also the feeling in Queensland 
 and amongst the Labour Party. There are, how- 
 ever, differences of opinion and very strong feeling 
 about this. On the large sugar plantations in 
 Queensland many black men are employed ; they 
 are called Kanakas, and come from the South Sea 
 Islands. It has become quite a political question, 
 and rigid laws and rules have been made 
 about these men. The one party say that these 
 black men are forced or cajoled away from their 
 native islands, and that when once got to Queens- 
 land they are ill-used, and treated like slaves. 
 All this the employers indignantly deny, so that 
 we thought we would see for ourselves, and find 
 out on the spot how the Kanakas are paid, and 
 how they are treated and cared for. We had never 
 seen a sugar plantation before, and, of course, 
 knew nothing of the employers or labourers on the 
 estate. We had obtained an introduction to Mr.
 
 WILLIAM GIBSON, SENR., AND SONS, BINGEBA PLANTATION, 
 QUEENSLAND. 
 
 (Father, in the centre, over 90 years old.)
 
 WHERE WE BEGAN. 43 
 
 Gibson, of Bingera, near Bundaberg, and thither 
 we went. 
 
 The train from Brisbane to Bundaberg runs 
 right through the Bush, mile after mile and hour 
 after hour, at the rate of about twenty-five miles 
 an hour, the country being a wild and lonely land, 
 which seemed like one unending or illimitable 
 forest. There were thousands and thousands o 
 acres of uncultivated land, but it was all covered 
 with trees and scrub. The trees were almost 
 entirely gum-trees, straight and tall, lifting up their 
 heads high in the air. In some places the under- 
 growth was very thick, and looked dense and 
 impenetrable. The long drought had killed every- 
 thing ; there was nothing green ; all looked as 
 dead as sawdust. The very trees languished and 
 seemed to sigh in sadness as the gentle wind sung 
 softly through their withered branches. Now and 
 then we passed by some solitary settler's hut, and, 
 in spite of the dreadful drought, we thought of 
 the crowded and huddled-up masses of London, 
 while there were all these broad acres of land un- 
 touched, uncultivated, and, so far, useless. I am 
 far from saying that all this land is good land or 
 even worth the cost of cultivation ; but surely 
 much of it is, and who knows what treasures of 
 wealth are buried under the surface. 
 
 In due course we arrived at Bingera, and were 
 soon on the sugar plantation. Mr. Gibson gave 
 us a hearty welcome, and from the little primitive 
 railway station took us in some funny little sugar 
 trucks on a funny little railway up to the great 
 sugar mill in the centre of the plantation. We sat 
 on empty sugar boxes in the open trucks as the 
 tiny engine whizzed along the narrow metals, and
 
 44 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 of course wondered whether we should reach the 
 mill alive. But we did so, and found there a com- 
 munity all its own, and utterly isolated from all 
 the world. The first place we entered was a store 
 with every conceivable thing in it to supply the 
 needs of all who were there. It was a large wooden 
 shed packed with goods ; and the man who attended 
 to it seemed ready to eat me there and then, for 
 he came from Gloucester and knew all about me. 
 He knew my native village, and my father and 
 mother, and the cottage in which I was born. To 
 see a man from Gloucester was too much for him, 
 and he was not a little excited. I was equally 
 surprised and delighted to see anyone in such a 
 lonely and far away place who knew my native 
 village. 
 
 Mr. Gibson explained to us that four brothers 
 owned and worked the plantation. Their father 
 came from Scotland many years ago, bringing his 
 four boys with him, and they settled down at 
 Bingera. They cleared and cultivated the land, 
 and had since built up the great sugar business as 
 we saw it. The father was still alive, and lived 
 in his own little colonial house close to the mill- 
 We went and saw the old gentleman, and found 
 he was far past all business. The portraits we 
 give will show the sort of men who first went out 
 to plant the uncultivated land in the now pro- 
 sperous Colonies. Here are the father and the four 
 sons on Bingera plantation. 
 
 We then began our investigations, and went all 
 over the place and looked into everything. We 
 found that those who employ the Kanakas have 
 to house and feed and care for them, their food, 
 houses, and wages being all under Government
 
 WHERE WE BEGAN. 45 
 
 inspection. Their district or local inspectors look 
 after this business. The meat is killed on the spot 
 and the bread is baked there. We saw it all raw, 
 and cooked, and had for our food the same sort of 
 meat and bread as the Kanakas. The only differ- 
 ence was in the joints, but it was all from the same 
 ox and the same batch of bread, and nothing better 
 could be desired than what we had. 
 
 We saw the Kanakas at work in the field, and 
 we talked with those who could at all understand 
 English and speak a little. No word of complaint 
 was uttered ; indeed, they seemed quite contented 
 and happy. From all I saw and heard I con- 
 cluded that the Kanakas are better fed, better 
 paid, and better cared for than many of our 
 labourers in England. Perhaps I shall be told that 
 this is an unfair estimate, as I saw them under the 
 best possible conditions, seeing the Gibson brothers 
 are Christian men, and do their best for their men. 
 This I do not wish to deny, and I can only tell what 
 I saw and heard. 
 
 Quite apart from that view of the case, the 
 labour on a sugar plantation is peculiar. " The 
 boys " (they call the Kanakas boys) can do it 
 well ; and I was told on all hands " that the white 
 man can't do it." To put it kindly, if he can, he 
 does not like it. It is exceedingly hot in Queens- 
 land, and when it comes to cutting the sugar cane 
 it is hard work in the blazing sun, and the white 
 man feels it ; it tries every fibre of the man. I 
 was assured " it has been tried again and again, 
 and proved a failure." Again I can only write 
 what I was told by those who are known to be 
 honest and straightforward men. I should not 
 have said a word about such a vexed question,
 
 46 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 only I have spent my life amongst working men, 
 and I am deeply interested in all labour questions. 
 From my heart I wish nothing but good for all 
 sides. 
 
 That our English readers may get an idea of 
 what it is to cut the sugar canes, we give the 
 picture of " the boys " at the job on the plantation 
 at Bingera. 
 
 We went from Bingera to Fairymeads. Never 
 shall we forget that drive through the Bush. It 
 was twenty-six miles. Mr. Gibson drove us in 
 a " buggy " with two horses. Most of the way 
 was through soft white sand, along what out there 
 is called a road, but which is a sort of passage 
 cut through the trees. It was wild and lonely ; 
 for miles we saw neither house, man, nor beast ; 
 the silence of the mighty forest was profound and 
 suggestive. There was no life of any sort. " It 
 was a land of drought, and of the shadow of 
 death." 
 
 At length we arrived at Bundaberg a smart 
 little town, well kept and full of business. We 
 were then not far from Fairymeads, where there is 
 another large sugar industry. This is owned and 
 worked by two brothers named Young, and it is 
 a lovely spot. We were received by the Messrs. 
 Young with much cordiality, and at once got to 
 business. There were more of the Kanakas here, 
 and all seemed very busy. We were soon amongst 
 them, and found that many of them had been 
 there for some time, and could both speak and 
 understand some English. We were introduced 
 to a missionary lady who looks after " the boys '' 
 in all sorts of ways, and then: bodily needs as well 
 as their souls.
 
 WHERE WE BEGAN. 47 
 
 On this estate there is a small mission chapel 
 for the Kanakas, and there they are taught to 
 read the Bible and sing Sankey's hymns. W 
 were taken down to the chapel in the evening, 
 and we held a service with none but Kanakas 
 there. It was one of the most pathetic and 
 appealing sights I ever saw, to see those poor 
 heathen men and women bending over Mr. 
 Sankey's hymn-book, striving, struggling to catch 
 a word here and there which they could sing or 
 say. The noise was peculiar, but the soul of the 
 whole thing was pathos itself. 
 
 There was one poor man there who had just 
 lost a child ; he kneeled down to sing, and when 
 the song was done he prayed. Nothing could 
 describe the prayer and its effect on us all ; it 
 was the talk of a child to a father in the language 
 of a child, but extremely different from the sort 
 of prayers we usually hear. It had the tender wail 
 of a broken heart, in broken English, and snatches 
 of his own tongue. I felt that indeed and of a 
 truth a father is a father, whether he be black or 
 white. 
 
 I spoke to this congregation of Kanakas, and 
 they listened as though they yearned to under- 
 stand every word. I used the word hypocrite, 
 and feeling that they did not understand it, I 
 turned to the missionary and asked her if they 
 did so ? " No," she said, " they use quite another 
 word for it." " What is it ? " said I. " Gammon," 
 was her reply. I went on with my talk and said, 
 " Ah well, boys, I mean be no gammon." They 
 caught the idea instantly " Ah ! " a long " ah ! " 
 and laughed heartily. 
 
 The following little bit of conversation took
 
 48 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 place between one of these Kanakas and the 
 missionary. I quote it from a report of work 
 amongst them during 1901-2. 
 
 ' How long have you been in Queensland, 
 Harry ? ' 
 
 " ' Fourteen years.' 
 
 " ' You never go to school all these years ? ' 
 
 " ' No, me stop all this time along North 
 Queensland, and no school before, only just now ; 
 suppose me stop in Bundaberg, me go along school 
 long time. 
 
 " ' What you do all these fourteen years ? ' 
 
 " ' Oh ! sin, sin, sin all time.' 
 
 " ' And you want truly to take Jesus as your 
 Master this time ? ' 
 
 " ' Yes ; true me no gammon, me want Him 
 more? " 
 
 That is how they use the word. The poor 
 fellow meant to say, " Me no hypocrite." On 
 their tongue it is a most expressive and suggestive 
 word. 
 
 We were intensely interested in all we saw at 
 Fairymeads, and became more deeply concerned 
 about the Kanakas question than ever. We do 
 not know enough about it to enter into the 
 political side of the matter, so only write what we 
 saw and heard at Bingera and Fairymeads. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Young were exceedingly good to 
 us. Quite apart from all questions touching the 
 Kanakas, our fellowship was delightful, and we 
 shall treasure the memory of our visit to Fairy- 
 meads in our grateful hearts as long as we live. 
 
 We were soon back at Brisbane with our beloved 
 friends, Mr. and Mrs. Whale, and then after a 
 few more days with them we left Queensland for
 
 WHERE WE BEGAN. 49 
 
 Sydney. We went on board a vessel called the 
 Tyrian, a small sort of craft, and yet we had over 
 five hundred miles to go in her. As she steamed 
 down the river for the sea, we sighed for cooler 
 weather. We were sad at heart, as we felt sure 
 we should never see our life-long friends, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Whale, again. Ah well ! there is a better 
 land, they say, and I profoundly believe it. Some 
 readers will smile at that, and I forgive them. I 
 am sure they will allow me to express that bit of 
 my steady and unfaltering faith about the future.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 NEW FRIENDS. 
 
 *' A man that hath friends must show himself friendly, and 
 there is a friend that sticketh closer than a brother." 
 
 PROVERBS xvm. 24. 
 
 WE had a calm and smooth passage in the little 
 ship Tyrian from Brisbane to Sydney, and we 
 arrived on October 31, at 9 a.m. Our faithful 
 friend and guide met us at the Circular Quay, and 
 explained to us all the arrangements which had 
 been made for our comfort. We were at once 
 ushered into the most abounding hospitality 
 and generous kindness. We were to be the guests 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Dixon, of Abergeldie ; but 
 first we were to meet all the Baptist ministers of 
 Sydney at the house of my dear old friend and 
 fellow-student, Rev. F. Hibberd, who lives some 
 twenty miles out of Sydney, in a lovely spot called 
 Carlingford. There we went and spent our first 
 day on our return to Sydney, and the welcome 
 the ministers gave us was affectionate and enthusi- 
 astic. The absorbing topic of our talk was the 
 Old Country, old friends there, and, above all, 
 the Education Bill and the struggle that would 
 follow. Again in Sydney, as at Brisbane, I found 
 the ministers as keenly interested in this matter 
 as we are at home ; they are with us to a man> 
 and utterly opposed to the Act of 1902. We 
 entered fully into the political, social, and religious 
 
 50
 
 NEW FRIENDS. 51 
 
 life of England, and all sorts of questions were 
 asked, till it was difficult to answer them all. 
 It soon became very evident that the Baptist 
 ministers of Sydney are out-and-out Evangelicals 
 in doctrine, as well as fervid in spirit. The 
 " Higher Criticism " is not in their line, neither 
 do they live in the atmosphere of philosophic doubt. 
 I spent a fortnight in their midst, and mingled 
 much with them and their deacons and people, and 
 I know that what I write of them is true. 
 
 In the evening of this our first day in Sydney 
 we got to Abergeldie, where we found a palatial 
 residence, standing in its own grounds, in one of 
 the many lovely suburbs of Sydney. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Dixon received us as though we were old 
 friends ; their welcome and cordiality were most 
 refreshing, and we at once felt at home. As the 
 days went on nothing was too much to do for 
 us, and they heaped all manner of kindness on us 
 from first to last. 
 
 We spent our first day here November 1 in 
 exploring the garden, and we found it full of all 
 manner of lovely flowers and fruits. It seemed 
 so strange to us to be there in the height of summer, 
 when it was mid- winter at home. The next day 
 was Sunday, and we worshipped at Dr. Porter's 
 chapel at Petersham, a suburb close by Abergeldie. 
 In the congregation we met many old friends 
 from the Homeland, and made them new ones. 
 At the close of the day we felt we had spent an 
 exceedingly happy Sabbath. 
 
 On the morrow we rested quietly at Abergeldie 
 till the evening, when we went into Sydney. Here 
 we had our second Reception, which was arranged 
 to take place at Woolloomooloo Tabernacle, where
 
 52 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Mr. Rose is the pastor. Many of the Free 
 Church ministers were there, and all the leading 
 Baptists of the city. There were about 300 
 persons present, and it was a very remarkable 
 meeting. We now understood what a Recep- 
 tion means in the Colonies, and a very pleasant, 
 happy thing it is. Here it was friendly and homely, 
 and utterly free from all cant and formality ; a 
 deep and sincere spirit breathed through every 
 speech that was made, and I responded with as 
 much freedom and heartiness as I could command. 
 We were then and there fairly introduced to some 
 of the best life hi Sydney, and we felt we were in 
 very congenial society. 
 
 Before we arrived some friends had approached 
 the railway officials about a free pass for us, and 
 this was generously granted, so that also in New 
 South Wales we had a first-class ticket over all 
 the lines. This enabled us to visit many places 
 and see much at very little cost ; and we now 
 record our best thanks to all concerned, as we 
 keenly appreciated their kindness. 
 
 We must pass over days we spent in going round 
 and about that glorious harbour at Sydney ; we 
 may not even stop to describe the exquisite coves 
 and corners we visited, and the rivers we saw. 
 No one can imagine the wonders and beauties of 
 that harbour till he has seen it. The vision 
 lives before me as I write these lines, and will 
 never die. 
 
 We had a very kind invitation from a friend 
 of all that is good in Sydney to visit the Blue 
 Mountains, and this we gladly accepted, and 
 went to see the beauties and wonders of that 
 weird region. No one should ever visit Sydney
 
 NEW FRIENDS. 53 
 
 without seeing these mountains, which we suppose 
 are called blue just because they are covered with 
 such a dark blue haze. Almost all mountains, in 
 certain conditions of the atmosphere, and when 
 seen from a distance, have a blue haze about 
 them ; but nothing like the very distinct dark 
 blue which covers this range in New South Wales. 
 Look from what summit you will, the pinnacles, 
 crags, and gorges all round you and far away in 
 every vista are blue very blue. It seems to be a 
 positive colouring, permanent or abiding, and 
 not a mere effect of shadow, or distance, or chang- 
 ing atmosphere. As you stand on some high 
 rock, it begins close to you ; and as you look across 
 tremendous gorges and wide-spreading valleys, 
 and the tops of other mountains, it increases in 
 density and colour. We noticed that during 
 some parts of the day the colour was more vivid 
 than at other times ; but the mountains were 
 always blue very blue. The opening up of the 
 Blue Mountains must have been a great event in 
 the history of Australia, for it led the way into 
 a vast, rich country beyond. Soon after Sydney 
 began to form itself into a little township, with 
 the idea of growth and expansion, a man named 
 George Bass dared to go as far as the foot of the 
 mountains. Though he was an intrepid explorer, 
 he ventured no further ; for such was the frown- 
 ing, impassable appearance of the mighty rocks, 
 that he returned to Sydney with the decided 
 opinion that it was " impossible to find a passage, 
 even for a person on foot." That judgment was 
 too hasty to be true ; other men were destined 
 to follow, to make an effort, and succeed in find- 
 ing a way over these rough, rocky, and densely
 
 54 SUNNY MEMOBIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 wooded mountains. Their names should be 
 written in letters of gold all over Australian 
 history. Something has been done to perpetuate 
 their names, so long as men shall live and visit 
 the great range. Three railway stations on the 
 line from Sydney to Blackheath bear the names 
 of Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth, three brave 
 men who did wonders and suffered all sorts of 
 hardships to find a way, and make it possible 
 for a road to be constructed right over these 
 mountains to the other side. This meant much 
 for Sydney, and for the rest of New South 
 Wales, in regard to all future developments. We 
 saw the spot which they reached, where they 
 halted, and from which they returned to Sydney 
 to tell their tale. It is about a mile and a half 
 on the Bathurst side of Katoomba. In after 
 days, when the history came to be written, one 
 writer says of these three heroes : " They con- 
 ceived that they had sufficiently accomplished 
 the design of their undertaking, having surmounted 
 all the difficulties which had hitherto prevented 
 the interior of the country from being explored. 
 They had partly cleared, or at least marked out, 
 a road by which the passage of the mountain 
 might be easily effected. Their provisions were 
 nearly expended, their clothes and shoes were in 
 a very bad condition, and the whole party were 
 ill with bowel complaints." 
 
 That is suggestive enough of their condition ; 
 they had no choice but to return or die. They 
 decided to return, but before starting they carved 
 their initials on a tree, the stump of which now 
 stands by the side of the road, and which has a 
 low wall built round it, and on the wall a fence
 
 NEW FRIENDS. 55 
 
 for protection. This is now honoured as " The 
 Explorers' Tree," and there is an inscription on 
 the wall, which runs thus (the reader will please 
 pardon the grammar) : 
 
 " This wall and fence has been erected by the 
 Hon. J. S. Farnell, Esqr., Minister of Lands, to 
 preserve this tree marked by 
 
 BLAXLAND, 
 
 LAWSON, 
 
 WENTWOETH, 
 
 being the farthest distance reached in their first 
 attempt to cross the Blue Mountains in the 
 month of May, A.D. 1813." 
 
 As we stood on the spot, and looked at the 
 tree, and the names on the little rough wall at 
 its foot, we wondered what the world owes to 
 such men as Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth, 
 adventurers who are the sort of men that open 
 up the wealth and wonders of all lands. 
 
 Soon after the return of these three men, a 
 surveyor was sent up to the mountains to further 
 explore and discover what was beyond the now 
 famous tree. His name was G. W. Evans, and 
 within six months he actually got as far as the 
 spot where the town of Bathurst now stands a 
 hundred miles beyond the tree. Within two 
 years a road was made, which still exists, from 
 Sydney to the then future town. 
 
 We stayed at Blackheath with our good friend, 
 Mr. White, of Sydney, who took us to the moun- 
 tains, and a wonderfully happy time we had. 
 On the first day we visited the Leura Falls, 
 an indescribably lovely and enchanting place. 
 Never did we see such a gorge, and perhaps never
 
 56 SUNNY MEMORIES OP AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 shall again ; the look-out from the top of the 
 falls was also exceedingly wonderful and fine. 
 
 Here we had our first experience of a lunch in 
 the Australian Bush, which was a sumptuous 
 affair, provided by kind and old hands at the 
 business. Our dear, good friends, Mrs. Bucking- 
 ham and Mrs. White, ministered unto us with lavish 
 abundance, and never was a meal more enjoyed, 
 and never was a party more jolly. Talk about 
 Christians not enjoying themselves ! Enjoyment 
 is a word not forcible enough to express our happi- 
 ness ; we had a supreme repast in a limitless 
 forest, in scenes superb and enchanting. 
 
 No picnic in Australia is complete without the 
 famous " billy," which always goes with the party. 
 This is a round, tin can, like a small milk-can, 
 with a lid. A fire is lighted on the ground, 
 and the " billy " hung over it nearly full of 
 water, and as soon as this boils, tea is put 
 in and stirred for a moment with a green twig, 
 which gives a smack of flavour to the tea; it is 
 never considered complete without this stir of the 
 stick. The tea is then served out to the party, 
 and the beverage is very delicious. The Austra- 
 lians will drink tea any hour of the day or night ; 
 we were amazed everywhere at the quantity of tea 
 they drink. Our first day on the Blue Mountains 
 ended all too soon, and we retired to sleep the 
 sleep of the weary. 
 
 The next day we had another glorious drive 
 through the Bush to a place called " Evans' Look- 
 out," which is at the top of a high rock over- 
 looking a wide, spreading valley, which appeared 
 to be very fertile and well cultivated, with ranges 
 of mountains beyond. Darwin visited this spot in
 
 NEW FRIENDS. 57 
 
 the course of his famous visit to the southern 
 hemisphere, and he has told the reading world 
 what he thought of it. Here we found another 
 and a much larger and finer monument erected 
 to the memory of the great men who were the 
 pioneers over these marvellous mountains a 
 stone obelisk, with their names carved on it. 
 
 One day more on the Blue Mountains, amidst 
 all the wonders and glories which we saw, ended 
 our visit, and we returned to Sydney to our kind 
 host at Abergeldie, on our way to Melbourne ; 
 and it had been arranged that we should arrive 
 there in time to take part in the Annual Meetings 
 of the Baptist Union of Victoria, to be held on 
 November 17, 18, 19 and 20. We were very 
 anxious to meet all the ministers and delegates, 
 and learn the state of the churches and the 
 conditions of work in the Colonies.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 OUR STAY IN MELBOURNE. 
 
 ON Thursday, November 13, we left Sydney for 
 Melbourne ; we had one night more in a train, as 
 the express left at 9.15 p.m., the last train that 
 runs between Sydney and Melbourne. A whole 
 host of ministers and others came to the station 
 to see us off and bid us farewell ; and as the train 
 steamed out of the station we felt we were leaving 
 many true hearts who seemed to be friends of 
 years, instead of only a brief fortnight. They had 
 entirely won our hearts, and all of them had really 
 done wonders for us. We wonder if we shall ever 
 see any of them again ; if not, they will ever live 
 in our memories, and that parting at the station 
 will not be forgotten. 
 
 It was about 11 a.m. on the morrow when we 
 arrived in Melbourne, where we were to be Mr. 
 and Mrs. Carey's guests during our stay, and so 
 we went straight to their hospitable home. Here 
 we experienced our most happy time in all our 
 long tour. Our dear friends did everything that 
 love could devise to make us happy ; but there 
 was something more in it. Sometimes two souls 
 is that the right word ? Well, hearts won't do, 
 minds won't do ; it needs every faculty of the 
 man. So let us say two souls come together to 
 interpret each to the other, to reveal one to the 
 other. This is a real and deep experience ; I
 
 OUE STAY IN MELBOURNE. 59 
 
 don't think it often happens after men are fifty 
 years of age, but when it does it becomes exceed- 
 ingly precious to both lives. I venture to think 
 it is intellectual, emotional, and intensely spiritual. 
 Anyhow, this sort of thing really took place in 
 Mr. Carey's house at Melbourne. I believe that 
 it was in the providence of God that we two should 
 thus meet, and have long hours of quiet talk on 
 many of the subjects and problems that haunt 
 men's minds. Our talks were perfectly free and 
 frank : about our reading, thinking, and experi- 
 ences. We walked along dark roads, which led 
 to valleys, where we only whispered, where every- 
 thing was weird, ghostly, undefined, and uncertain. 
 Then we did not dogmatise ; we prayed, and we 
 also climbed to the summits of the hills of God, 
 and stood, as it were, in the sunshine. Some 
 things were clear and well-defined, and we thanked 
 God for certainties, more than for questions that 
 are not answered and problems that are not yet 
 solved. 
 
 Our second day here was a memorable one ; our 
 good friend, Mr. Maclean, of Melbourne, had kindly 
 arranged to take us for a drive to what is called 
 " The Black Spur," to which you go by rail part 
 of the way, and then drive. We were quite a 
 party, and a brake and four horses met us at the 
 station. Then came the drive ; mile after mile 
 through what seemed like a tropical forest, the 
 largest trees we had ever seen standing on every 
 hand ; not merely one here and there, but 
 thousands and thousands of them. Here, too, for 
 the first time, we saw the lovely tree-fern in all its 
 natural perfection. As we climbed up the 
 mountain, every here and there we got the most
 
 60 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 exquisite peeps and views of the most beautiful 
 dells, full of luxuriant growths of fern and flower, 
 and moss and bush, in infinite variety. The 
 ever-changing scene was so rich and enchanting 
 that we could scarcely speak. It was a perfect 
 day, and a soft breeze sweetly hummed and sang 
 ten thousand tunes through the branches of the 
 trees. We missed the twitter and song of our 
 English birds ; nevertheless the music was perfect. 
 It was heaven on earth to be there. 
 
 About half-way up the mountain we halted for 
 lunch in a small dell where there is a flat space, 
 like some well-kept lawn, and a stream of pure 
 water rippled and murmured through the dell, and 
 we sat on its banks. This is now one of the main 
 supplies of water for Melbourne, and there is no 
 fear of its failing ; the stream is always running, 
 winter and summer. This abundant supply comes 
 from the great table-land above, and trickles 
 down a thousand gullies and all sorts of fissures 
 in the rocks, till it finds its level and centre in the 
 bed of this little river, and then flows on into the 
 valley towards Melbourne. It is beautiful water, 
 well-filtered and ready for domestic use ; it is as 
 soft as our rain-water, and a perfect luxury to 
 wash in. The people of Melbourne may well be 
 proud and thankful for their supply of almost 
 perfect water. 
 
 Lunch over, the horses were put to and on we 
 climbed ; still up-hill, and amidst the most 
 luxurious undergrowth of all kinds of plants and 
 trees, while on both sides of the road there was a 
 superb fernery. On one side the ferns hung from 
 the rocks, in large and lovely festoons, in natural 
 perfection and poetical loveliness, and I question if
 
 OUR STAY IN MELBOURNE. 61 
 
 there is another such fernery on earth as that 
 which we saw that day. 
 
 Presently we reached the Hermitage. This is a 
 famous place which many of the Melbourne people 
 delight to visit ; and it is also their pleasure to 
 take as many of their friends who are English 
 visitors as they can. The Hermitage is a sort of 
 boarding-house, kept by a gentleman who has 
 spent some years in the South Sea Islands, and 
 to some purpose too ; for while there he gathered 
 all sorts of curiosities belonging to the natives, 
 and after settling at the Hermitage he built a 
 museum and filled it with those curious things. 
 It is now a large and deeply interesting and 
 instructive collection. This good man knew that 
 saint and hero, Rev. James Chalmers, and was 
 often his companion in travel in the Islands. 
 Amongst other things, he is a very good photo- 
 grapher, and he showed me a large portrait of 
 James Chalmers, the best of him I have seen. 
 The Hermitage stands in a beautiful spot, and is 
 surrounded with everything that is pure and 
 lovely ; an ideal place in which to rest and think. 
 Here we saw the parrots in their native glory, 
 their plumage being indescribably beautiful, as 
 they fled from tree to tree ; but I wished that 
 their insufferable noises corresponded a little with 
 the beauty of their feathers. 
 
 Our return down the mountain was more 
 enchanting than the upward drive. For mile after 
 mile we slowly descended through the mighty 
 Bush in a zigzag fashion. It was in the cool of 
 the day, and the soft breezes blew on us charged 
 with all sorts of strange but refreshing odours. It 
 was not like the scent of an English wood : it
 
 62 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 seemed to be fresher and more invigorating, with 
 a smack of the eucalyptus in it ; but, whatever it 
 was, it was sweet and refreshing to the last degree. 
 One writer says : "In Australia every native 
 shrub and tree is redolent of balmy perfume, but 
 the golden wattle is still the hawthorn king of the 
 perfumed realm." Adam Lindsay Gordon, of 
 whom every Colonial is very proud, sings it exactly 
 and finely : 
 
 In the spring, when the wattle bough trembles 
 
 'Twixt shadow and shine, 
 And each dew-laden air-draft resembles 
 
 A sweet draft of wine. 
 
 Yes, that is it exactly ; it must have been the 
 wattle bough " and each dew-laden air-draft," 
 that blest us as we descended the mountain. 
 
 We reached Melbourne in the evening, after our 
 first experience of an Australian picnic. It was 
 unique, and we heaped a thousand blessings on 
 the head of our kind and generous host, and said, 
 " If this is a sample of Australian hospitality we 
 shall do well." 
 
 The next day was Sunday, and we worshipped 
 at Collins Street Baptist Chapel ; we had heard 
 much of this church, its pastors, and its work. 
 We remembered good Mr. Martin as he was 
 before he left for Collins Street Church, many years 
 ago ; we also knew that great, rugged, noble, 
 saintly Mr. Samuel Chapman before he left England 
 for this pastorate. What a man he was ! What 
 a work he did ! I was greatly struck to hear 
 how all the men I met spoke of him ; they evidently 
 love and revere his memory. Melbourne, as a 
 city, owes more than it thinks to a life and ministry
 
 OUR STAY IN MELBOURNE. 63 
 
 like Mr. Chapman's. After all men can say, it is 
 not the Stock Exchange, nor the theatre, nor the 
 gambling-houses, that make a city pure, noble, and 
 strong. The pulpit is still a mighty factor in the 
 morals, and mental culture, and intellectual force 
 of the people. The man who believes and teaches 
 the principles and doctrines of the Sermon on the 
 Mount is bound to develop the best that is in men, 
 and build up strong characters for the municipal 
 and social life of the city. The pulpit was Mr. 
 Chapman's throne, and he loved and adorned it 
 till he died. Melbourne lost one of its great moral 
 and religious forces the day Samuel Chapman 
 was borne through its streets to his grave. I 
 wish I could weave a wreath of love and honour 
 worthy of the man ; I would lay it on his grave so 
 far away, and thank God for all such men, whether 
 in London or Melbourne. 
 
 We felt glad to see Collins Street Chapel, and 
 mingle in worship with a people we had never seen 
 before ; it seemed so very much like home when we 
 read the same Bible, and sang the same hymns. 
 The feeling of union of heart with heart, and 
 mind with mind, stole over us as never before, 
 and the feeling became intense as the service went 
 on. In that place that morning there must have 
 been an infinite variety of intellectual conceptions 
 and mental views of things, but there was yes, 
 there certainly was a deep, real union of faith and love, 
 apart from all creeds. I venture to say that no 
 act of uniformity, however pure and sound and 
 liberal it may be, and no sort of credal basis, how- 
 ever orthodox, could ever produce the oneness 
 of heart and soul that throbbed through that 
 service. When true men meet as we did that
 
 64 SUNNY MEMOKIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 day, there is something more than rhythm, poetry, 
 or song in the lines we sing : 
 
 We are not divided, all one body we, 
 One in hope, in doctrine, one in charity. 
 
 After the close of the service we had our first 
 taste of what afterwards became a feast of things 
 from the Homeland ; old friends from all parts 
 of England came forward to speak to us. From 
 many a little English village had they come out 
 to seek their fortune but we soon found they had 
 not all made one. In most cases I knew each one's 
 native village, their father and mother, and knew 
 them when they were children at home. I thought 
 they would pull me to pieces as they crowded to 
 shake hands with me, and they all talked at once. 
 Some of them got so excited that while one of 
 them was talking to me about a village in Wales, 
 another was asking me very tenderly about her 
 mother living in the B-ossendale Valley, in Lancashire. 
 All sorts of messages were delivered to me to take 
 " home " when I returned. The love and loyalty 
 to the Old Country was truly pathetic ; and it 
 was entirely universal and deeply sincere. 
 
 We were now getting at the heart of things as 
 they exist in the Australian States Melbourne 
 being the centre of light and leading for all the 
 States. Will the good people of Sydney forgive 
 me for saying this ? I hope so, for so it seemed 
 to us as we mingled with the life and thought and 
 people of the city. However large the wheel of 
 the Australian States may be and it is very 
 large Melbourne seemed to be the hub. In the 
 most remote places to which we went, everybody 
 talked of Melbourne, everybody liked Melbourne,
 
 OUR STAY IN MELBOURNE. 65 
 
 and they may with a very sane judgment justly 
 be proud of their noble city. It is richly beautiful. 
 It is intensely busy. Life is full and free, and 
 palpitates from city to suburb, from centre to 
 circumference. It is a gay and fascinating sight 
 to see all that goes on in Bourke Street, Collins 
 Street, and that quarter about midday. The ladies 
 are there in plentiful numbers, and in every colour 
 of the rainbow are they dressed. The pavements 
 are as crowded as they are in our Regent Street or 
 Cheapside. The blouses are as variegated as 
 they can by any means be made ; and oh .' the 
 hats and bonnets beggar all description. The shops 
 are equal to anything we have in any of our towns 
 and cities. The windows are dressed with perfect 
 taste, and with rich abundance of the most beauti- 
 ful modern English things and fashions. The 
 streets are wide and clean, and run at right angles 
 in all directions. The buildings are large and 
 well-built, and there is a great deal of architectural 
 symmetry all over the city. 
 
 If large bookshops, with every kind of book, 
 magazine, and newspaper, be a sign of the intel- 
 lectual life of a city, then Melbourne is very much 
 alive on its intellectual side. Bookshops full of 
 all manner of English literature abound ; and if 
 the Press is any sort of indication of the political 
 pulse of a city, then Melbourne is intensely 
 political. Newspapers are plentiful, and they are 
 conducted with a fine smartness and ability. There 
 is more news in them about England than there 
 is in our London Press about Australia ; but we 
 were sorry to see that the gambling mania is so 
 much fostered by such an able and well-conducted 
 Press.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 
 
 " How far yon little candle sheds its light ! It is surprising 
 how a good, true book shines on like a light over a moor ; little 
 thought of, perhaps, by its writer, but, a true testimony, it 
 keeps on its shining the light in the life from whence it came 
 sheds out its beneficent blessings to crowds of dark hearts 
 which need some friendly human guide. An old Chinese pro- 
 verb says, ' As the light of a single star may tinge the moun- 
 tains of many regions, so a single expression many lives.' " 
 
 PAXTON HOOD. 
 
 UP till now Australasia has not produced many 
 great writers. Still, it has its own home-born 
 and home-made literature. There is an instruc- 
 tive and deeply interesting book called " The 
 Development of Australian Literature." It was 
 written by Mr. Henry Gyles Turner and Mr. 
 Alexander Sutherland, and published by George 
 Robertson and Co., of Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, 
 Brisbane, and London, in 1898. There seems 
 to have been no attempt to give a succinct history 
 of the literature of Australia till then. This 
 appears to us as remarkable, seeing much had been 
 written before then. The first paragraph of the 
 book referred to says : 
 
 " According to Mr. G. B. Barton, the first book 
 printed and published in New South Wales was 
 a treatise on the cultivation of the vine, and the 
 art of making wine, by one James Busby. It 
 was published in 1825. It fell dead from the 
 press because, though a learned compilation, it 
 contained nothing of any value to guide the
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 67 
 
 colonists in the proposed new field of enterprise, 
 and addressing the limited and busy population 
 of that period it was undoubtedly a quarter of 
 a century too soon. Many books about Australia 
 and some books written by persons resident in 
 Australia had been published before that date, 
 but they had not been issued in Great Britain." 
 
 Poor author ! Poor book ! That was surely 
 a very unpromising beginning for the literature of 
 a new world. Despite such a start, it has grown in 
 all departments, and especially in fiction and poetry. 
 Messrs. Turner and Sutherland go on to say: 
 
 " Pass over fifty years, during which period 
 hundreds of volumes of prose and verse, covering 
 the fields of history, science, politics, fiction, and 
 theology, had emerged from the local press and 
 had attracted little notice outside the circle im- 
 mediately interested. At the end of that period, 
 say in 1875, Australia was, in every sense except 
 the commercial one, practically an unknown 
 quantity in England." 
 
 Then came a great change which altered every- 
 thing touching the Old Country and the New. 
 Many factors worked the change, and marvellous 
 have been the results in so short a time. Two 
 epoch-making events came off, and the next 
 quotation will show what our friends in the New 
 World think of the result. 
 
 " A few years later all this was changed. The 
 first great International Exhibition held in Mel- 
 bourne, in 1880-81, brought to these shores a 
 number of distinguished visitors and enterprising 
 business men from all parts of Europe, and from 
 that year the interest in the Colonies grew with 
 increasing momentum. And this growing interest
 
 68 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 culminated in England in 1886, the year of the 
 Colonial and Indian Exhibition at South Ken- 
 sington, in a perfect furore of admiring friendli- 
 ness, which made the name of ' an Australian ' 
 a passport into society, a talisman to open the 
 doors of exclusive clubs, and which caused the 
 crowds of more or less representative Australians 
 to be lionised to their hearts' content." 
 
 What a chain of glorious things have followed 
 those two Exhibitions, and all in a few brief 
 years ! The Queen's Jubilee came, and then the 
 Diamond Jubilee, and then the great Boer War. 
 In each of these great national events the love 
 and loyalty of the New World flamed out in 
 patriotic and patient devotion to the Old Land, that 
 astounded the whole civilised world. England 
 will never no, never forget how Australia gave 
 her sons to fight and die for the glory of her flag, 
 and the honour of her venerable and beloved 
 Queen. The thought of it makes us breathe as 
 a prayer what Charles Mackay once wrote about 
 France and England : 
 
 May the glory of their friendship never wane. 
 
 In days and years to come our children will tell 
 their children how the Australian troops crossed 
 the sea to South Africa, and fought side by side 
 with Britain's bravest sons. 
 
 Their deed shall be remembered, 
 
 Should the battle burst again, 
 
 And to actions as sublime shall inspire each future time, 
 
 Till war' s alarms shall cease and the nations live in peace* 
 
 Safe from tyranny, its murder and its ban. 
 
 During the period of all these changes of feeling 
 and friendship, minds and pens were very busy, 
 and the literature of Australia increased and
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 69 
 
 made itself felt. It was a time of great intel- 
 lectual movement. It began to dawn on English- 
 men " that the outposts of Greater Britain were 
 not necessarily places of exile for the ne'er-do- 
 weels of the Motherland, but that they possessed 
 a population kindred to themselves in the pursuit 
 of pleasure, in money-making and in general 
 ability. Why should they not have much in 
 common in art and literature ? A small coterie 
 of Australian writers who had settled in England 
 conceived the happy idea of answering the question 
 by turning this fervour to account in the interests 
 of their brethren in letters, and for the glorifica- 
 tion of the colonists generally." 
 
 Then came works in poetry, fiction, and other 
 subjects, until there is quite a respectable list of 
 good books. We confess we like the poetry better 
 than the fiction. We bought and read more than one 
 Australian story. " For the Term of His Natural 
 Life," by Marcus Clarke, fascinated us from beginning 
 to end, as a gruesome tale of the tyrannies and wrongs 
 of the poor English convicts who were transported 
 to Tasmania and other places in the early days, 
 when prison discipline was not as it is now. But 
 the poetry about the Bush, prospector, selector, 
 settler, and squatter charmed us most ; it rings and 
 sings and rattles with the real music of words ; there 
 is fine genius and power in much of it. Here is 
 a bit by Edward Dyson, in his " Peter Simpson's 
 Farm " : 
 
 He is old too soon and failing, but he's game to start anew, 
 And he tells his hopeless neighbours " What the Gov'ment's 
 
 going to do ! " 
 
 Both his girls are in the city, seeking places with the rest, 
 And his boys are tracking fortune in the melancholy West.
 
 70 SUNNY MEMOKIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Or let us take another verse or two, on explor- 
 ing the bush and scrub, which was written by 
 Henry Lawson, and called " Out Back." It is 
 grim and real, and full of tragedy and pathos, 
 and some of the words will be strange to English 
 readers, though they are common enough in 
 Australia, and tell their own meaning. 
 
 He tramped away from the shanty there when the days were 
 
 long and hot, 
 With never a soul to know or care if he died on the track or 
 
 not ; 
 The poor of the city have friends in woe, no matter how much 
 
 they lack, 
 But only God and the swagman know how the poor man 
 
 fares out back. 
 
 * * * * 
 
 And dirty and careless and old he was, as his lamps of hope 
 
 grew dim, 
 He tramped for years till the swag he bore seemed part of 
 
 himself to him ; 
 As a bullock drags in the sandy ruts, he followed the dreary 
 
 track, 
 With never a thought but to reach the huts when the sun 
 
 went down out back. 
 
 Of all the Australian poetry we have seen, we 
 liked that by Mrs. Cross the best ; it is finely 
 melodious, soft and sweet, as the heart sings its 
 sorrows and its joys. It looks much within, but 
 it also looks outside and gets into the fresh air 
 and the sunshine. Messrs. Turner and Sutherland 
 say : " ' Unspoken Thoughts,' by Mrs. Cross 
 (London, 1887), is not at all as well known as 
 it deserves to be. Probably this is due to the 
 fact that it was published anonymously, and 
 has nothing in subject or treatment to indicate 
 an Australian origin." No, it seems wider than
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 71 
 
 all the vast plains and hills of Australasia, for it 
 sings the inner thoughts and feelings of the human 
 heart. It is by no means weak, washy, or senti- 
 mental ; there is real force and lofty thinking in 
 most of it. We feel we cannot do better than 
 give the following from the book just quoted, 
 while assuring our readers there is plenty more 
 in the volume quite as good as the little we quote. 
 The subject of the sonnet is " Honour," and this 
 is how Mrs. Cross sings of it : 
 
 Me let the world disparage and despise 
 
 This virtuous world that loves its gilded chains, 
 
 Its mean successes and its sordid gains, 
 Its pleasant vice and profitable lies ; 
 Let its strong hands my rebel deeds chastise, 
 
 The rebel blood that surges in my veins, 
 
 And deal me all due penalties and pains, 
 And make me hideous in my neighbours' eyes. 
 But let me fall not in my own esteem, 
 
 By poor deceit or selfish greed debased. 
 
 Let me be free from secret stain and shame, 
 Know myself true though only false I seem 
 
 Know myself worthy howsoe'er disgraced 
 
 Know myself right though all the world should blame 
 
 We have ventured to say thus much about the 
 literature of the New World. It has grown, with 
 its towns and cities, with wonderful rapidity, and 
 we sincerely hope it will continue to expand in 
 depth and breadth and volume of power. Of all 
 the books we have read on the rise and develop- 
 ment of Australia, the one quoted above, by 
 Messrs. Turner and Sutherland, is the most in- 
 structive and interesting. 
 
 We stayed in Melbourne a fortnight, and 
 mingled very freely with much of the Free Church 
 life of the city. We got to know, at least, all the
 
 72 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Baptist ministers, and many of those in the 
 provinces, and some from remote and wild places 
 far away in the Bush. They had come to the 
 annual meetings of the Baptist Union, and we 
 were with them every day for a week. Many of 
 them had gone out from the Old Country ; we 
 knew them in early days, and it was refreshing to 
 meet again after th3 lapse of long years. But 
 what was to us so pathetic and instructive was 
 to see and hear the interest they took in all the 
 religious, social and political questions of the 
 Homeland. These cropped up in almost every 
 meeting of that eventful time. 
 
 The following week they held their " Summer 
 School of Theology," when papers were read and 
 questions discussed on the gravest matters of our 
 time. I wish the working men and others who 
 persist in repeating the old lie that ministers do 
 not take any interest in the labour question, social 
 questions, etc., had been there to hear what I 
 heard. One day in that week I felt I must be 
 at a trades union meeting in England, instead of 
 in a suburb of Melbourne. Some things that 
 were said by those ministers were quite good 
 enough and quite radical enough for any Trades 
 Union Council that ever met ; yes, and, I venture 
 to add, quite as intelligent. There were wide 
 differences of opinion and the utmost frankness 
 and honesty of expression as the debate went 
 on. We could not help feeling that these Free 
 Church representatives, after all, are the true and 
 best friends of working men. No words can 
 say how intensely I wish the working men under- 
 stood this. Alas ! they do not, and further and 
 further drift away from minister and church alike.
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 73 
 
 For three hours one afternoon those godly 
 pastors sat and questioned me about the social 
 conditions under which the people live and labour 
 in the East-end of London. They wanted to 
 know all about the wages, the hours, and the 
 homes of all the different classes of workers and 
 poor that make up the vast mass. The questions 
 were not asked in a cold and critical spirit ; there 
 was real heart in all of them, and even pain and 
 deep concern in many. Then they went deeply, 
 earnestly into religious matters, and made search- 
 ing and very intelligent inquiries into the great 
 Ritualistic movements in the State Church, and 
 how it affected the people, and what classes went 
 to the great Romanising churches of the land. I 
 told them. They probed and searched into all 
 sorts of questions concerning our Free Church life 
 and Free Church ministers. They asked about our 
 colleges and students, and what sort and type of 
 men we are growing for the pulpit of the future. 
 We were surprised and delighted at their know- 
 ledge of and interest in all our Free Church affairs. 
 It was difficult to realise that we were not sitting 
 in the Council of the Free Church Federation at 
 the Memorial Hall, Farringdon Street, London. 
 Yet we were 12,000 miles away. Who knows but 
 that some day, and in the near future, there will 
 not be a United Council of all our Free Churches 
 throughout the Empire, first meeting in Melbourne, 
 and then in London ? That would be a united 
 brotherhood of Free Churchmen which would 
 almost belt the globe. 
 
 During our stay at Melbourne we visited Bendigo, 
 Geelong, and Ballarat, the latter being a very 
 beautiful city which no one can see without being
 
 74 SUNNY MEMOKIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 struck with the cleanliness and neatness of the 
 wide, straight, well-kept streets, which are made 
 shady and beautiful with carefully-planted trees 
 oaks, elms, planes, and pines, with the everlasting 
 "gum-tree." The main thoroughfare, Sturt Street, 
 is the prettiest road we ever saw. It is two hun- 
 dred feet wide for nearly its whole length, so 
 " is broader than most of the famous streets of 
 the world." Leading right up the centre for a 
 mile there is a fine avenue of trees and a lovely 
 garden of flowers, while here and there are marble 
 statues of famous men. The effect is unique, 
 and imparts charm and beauty to the whole 
 place. 
 
 " You must see over our Botanical Gardens," 
 said our host and friend. We did see them, and 
 very beautiful and well-kept they are. ' You 
 must now see our lake," was the next order of the 
 day, and at once we drove thither. Well, we had 
 seen our own Lake Country Windermere, Der- 
 wentwater, &c. and this Lake Wendouree did 
 not seem so wonderful. But, then, we did not 
 know till we were told that once it was called 
 " Yuille's Swamp " or what had been spent on it 
 to make it what it is to-day. It is four miles in 
 circumference, and all round we went, but it 
 is only about a mile across, and quite close to the 
 city. The good folk of Ballarat keep a number 
 of yachts and boats, and a few small steam craft 
 that dodge about this lake, which is really a very 
 pretty little sheet of water, and it makes the city 
 seem cool and refreshing in the heat of the day. 
 It is carefully reserved and well-kept ; there are 
 plenty of all sorts of trees all round, and close to 
 the water there are most luxuriant weeping willows
 
 MEN AND LITERATURE. 75 
 
 nofc apologies for these poetical trees, but grand 
 and beautiful in their leafy tracery. 
 
 We " did " the gardens and the lake, and then 
 off to the hills to get a general view of the city, 
 and all the gullies and little hills where the gold 
 was found in the early days. It was a fine view, 
 and we dreamed of the fevered scenes that were 
 once enacted on that plain beneath us. Every- 
 where there were unmistakable traces of the 
 diggers' hard work ; every yard of ground had 
 been overhauled to find the precious metal, 
 though it was only in 1851 that gold was first 
 found at Ballarat. A man named Hiscox, I 
 believe, first discovered gold in a little gully 
 that bears his name. How this wonderful and 
 epoch-making fact became known we were not told ; 
 but quick as lightning the news spread, and the 
 plain on which the city now stands was soon 
 covered with white tents. Men came to the spot 
 in thousands from the ends of the earth to search 
 for and find gold. They all had the gold fever. 
 What a blessing to the whole world it would have 
 been had they left it at Ballarat. They did not 
 do this, and so the fever rages on to this day, 
 from the Stock Exchange, London, to the meanest 
 village in the land. It must have been a weird 
 sight to see every night the watch-fires of 
 the diggers as they lit up the lovely forest. 
 " They scared away for ever the dingo and the 
 kangaroo from their wonted haunts." 
 
 It seems to us to be one of the wonders of the 
 modern world that in fifty- two years Ballarat has 
 grown to be what it is to-day. When my mother 
 rocked my cradle the ground on which the city 
 now stands was a primeval forest untouched by
 
 76 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 the hand of man and even scarcely visited by h'm 
 We are told there was a sheep-run there before 
 1851, so the site might have been visited by 
 some solitary shepherd or a tribe of wandering 
 aborigines. It is more than probable that no 
 civilised human being had ever seen the wild 
 bush that once covered the ground on which the 
 city now stands. Yet in half a century that has 
 all been transformed into a thriving and beautiful 
 township of which all Australia may well be proud.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 MELBOURNE ITSELF. 
 
 They lay the stone whose eyes may never see 
 
 A nation's turrets rise above the plain. 
 
 They sow the seed who may not reap the grain ; 
 
 Fertility will bless that toil which wrought through stress and 
 
 strain 
 Her unity. 
 
 It yet shall be. Build on and heed not scorn ; 
 Build fair and strong a nation's towering height ; 
 In massy grandeur weld her scattered might, by schism torn, 
 After the darkness and the dawn's grey light cometh the morn. 
 Build on ! Build on ! 
 
 G. ESSEX EVANS. 
 
 FROM Ballarat we returned to Melbourne ; and we 
 have the most grateful and happy memories of 
 Melbourne and its people. It would be delightful 
 to linger fondly over its streets, gardens, and 
 beautiful buildings ; for the rise, development, 
 and progress of this young city will be a thrilling 
 story when the right man comes along to write it. 
 Mr. Sutherland has done something in the way of 
 giving us its early history, from about the first 
 house built on the banks of the Yarra, in his 
 deeply interesting little book on the history of 
 Australia ; but Mr. E. E. Morris, has done better, 
 and given us more in his " Picturesque Australia," 
 which we have already quoted. 
 
 It appears to us as one of the wonders of the world 
 that Melbourne could have grown to what it is in 
 so short a period of time as the city most certainly 
 has done. In contrasting Melbourne with Sydney, 
 
 77
 
 78 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Mr. Morris says : " In Melbourne it is man's 
 work, not Nature's, that invites admiration; and 
 it is from this point of view chat a traveller char- 
 acterised Melbourne as ' marvellous.' No places, 
 be they regarded as rivals or as sisters, could 
 present greater contrasts than Melbourne and 
 Sydney. Some cities are founded, others grow; 
 some seem to have been arranged and built accord- 
 ing to a plan, others to grow according to their 
 needs, apparently following their own sweet will. 
 With certain limitations, Melbourne belongs to the 
 former class ; Sydney, from the very nature of 
 its position, to the latter." Yes, but we venture 
 to think the " limitations" are many; and, in spite 
 of its arranged plan and metrical order, Melbourne 
 has grown, and its growth has been, and is, very 
 marvellous. In 1839 it was not even a village; 
 indeed, it is probably correct to say that then 
 there was scarcely a being to be seen on the site 
 of the present city. There is incident, accident, 
 and romance in the discovery of the Yarra by the 
 intrepid men who first landed and explored the 
 river and the Bush on either side. Melbourne 
 has done its utmost to immortalise their names and 
 memories in the names of its most famous streets 
 Bourke Street, Flinders Street. Collins Street, etc. 
 
 The story of the discovery of the site on which 
 the city stands, and how its formation began, is 
 too good to miss. It is told by Mr. Alexander 
 Sutherland in his famous little book, just referred 
 to. It seems that one John Batman had settled 
 in Tasmania, with the idea of making his fortune 
 there at sheep-farming ; but the sheep became a 
 little too thick for the pasture land then available. 
 Batman was a restless, roving spirit, fond of fight
 
 MELBOURNE ITSELF. 79 
 
 and adventure of any and every kind, and he, 
 with others, conceived the idea of crossing the 
 straits from Tasmania to Australia. " In 1827 
 Batman talked it over with his friend Gellibrand, 
 a lawyer in Hobart, and these two men asked 
 permission to occupy grass lands supposed to 
 be round Western Port, but the Governor of 
 Sydney refused. In 1834 some of them resolved 
 to go without permission, and an association of 
 eight members resolved to send sheep over to Port 
 Phillip, which was now known to be the more 
 suitable harbour. But before they sent the sheep 
 they resolved to send someone to explore and report. 
 John Batman naturally volunteered to go, and the 
 association chartered for him a little vessel, the 
 Rebecca, in which, after nineteen days of seasick- 
 ness and miserable tossing on the Strait, he suc- 
 ceeded in entering Port Phillip on the 29th of May, 
 1835." 
 
 Here, then, is the man landed on the soil of what 
 is now known all over the world as Victoria, where 
 there was then little else but bush and swamp, all 
 lonely and wild and silent. But Batman was 
 there, and strange things were soon to happen 
 for he was just the man to cause them ; he knew 
 what to do, and did it. Of course, he did not dream 
 that he had discovered the site for a great and 
 populous city, but he had done so, and the city soon 
 began to grow like magic. 
 
 On the morning after he had dropped anchor 
 he landed near Geelong, and walked to the top of 
 the Barrabool Hills, wading most of the way 
 through grass knee-deep. On the following day 
 he went in search of the aborigines, and met a 
 party of about twenty women, together with a
 
 80 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 number of children, with whom he soon contrived 
 to be on friendly terms ; and after he had distri- 
 buted among them looking-glasses, blankets, hand- 
 kerchiefs, apples, and sugar, he left them very 
 well satisfied. One clever stroke of business had 
 been quickly done, and the door was open leading 
 to success. The next move was made compara- 
 tively easy ; a day or two later the Rebecca 
 anchored in Hobson's Bay, in front of the ti-tree 
 scrub and the lonely shores where now the streets 
 of Williamstown extend in all directions. Batman 
 again started on foot to explore that river whose 
 mouth lay in front of him ; and after two days' 
 walking through open grass lands admirably suited 
 for sheep, his party reached the site of Sunbury. 
 From a hill at that place they could see fires about 
 twenty miles to the south-east ; and as they were 
 anxious to meet the natives, they bent their steps 
 in that direction till they overtook a native man, 
 with his wife and three children. To his great 
 satisfaction he learnt that these people knew of his 
 friendly meeting with the women in the Geelong 
 district. They guided him to the banks of the 
 Merri Creek and the place where the whole tribe 
 was encamped, where he stayed all night, sleeping 
 hi a pretty grassy hollow beside the stream 
 surely a brave thing to do. In the morning he 
 offered to buy a portion of their land ; he gave 
 them a large quantity of goods, consisting of 
 scissors, knives, blankets, looking-glasses, and 
 articles of this description, and in return they 
 granted him all the land stretching from the Merri 
 Creek to Geelong. Batman had the documents 
 drawn up, and on Northcote Hill, overlooking the 
 grass-covered flats of Collingwood and the sombre
 
 MELBOURNE ITSELF. 81 
 
 forests of Carlton and Fitzroy, the natives affixed 
 their marks to the deeds by which Batman fancied 
 he was legally put in possession of 600,000 acres ! 
 He was deceived, as other authorities had to be 
 consulted. Still, trees were cut with notches, in 
 order to fix the boundaries, and in the afternoon 
 Batman took leave of his black friends. He had 
 not gone far before he was stopped by a large 
 swamp ; and he slept for the night under the 
 giant gum-trees which then spread their shade 
 over the ground now covered by the populous 
 streets of West Melbourne. In the morning he 
 found his way round the swamp, and in trying 
 to reach the salt waterway up which he had gone 
 a day or two before, he came upon a noble stream, 
 which was afterwards and is now called the Yarra. 
 In the evening he reached his vessel in the bay. 
 Next day he ascended the Yarra in a boat ; 
 and when he came to the Yarra Falls he wrote 
 in his diary, " This will be the place for a village," 
 unconscious that he was gazing on the site of a 
 future great and busy city. He was on the very 
 site upon which Melbourne stands to-day. 
 
 But it was Batman's lob in history to build the 
 first house of Melbourne, and, after his intrepid 
 doings, we feel sorry he was hustled out of it. We 
 have not space for the whole story, but other 
 settlers soon came, for Batman had made it easy 
 for them. They disputed his claim to the land ; 
 the two parties at once began to clear it and after- 
 wards settled the dispute. " A fortnight later a 
 man named Wedge brought round all his party 
 from Indented Head in order to occupy what 
 Batman had marked as the site of a village, and 
 the two rival parties were encamped side by side 
 
 6
 
 82 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 where the western part of Collins Street (one of the 
 principal streets of Melbourne) now stands. A 
 little later Fawkner arrived with further settlers 
 and with a wooden house, which he soon erected 
 by the banks of the Yarra, the first regularly-built 
 house of Melbourne. He placed it by the side 
 of the densely-wooded stream which was after- 
 wards turned into Elizabeth Street. Great clouds 
 of black and white cockatoos incessantly raised 
 their clamour at the first strokes of the axe ; but 
 soon the hillside was clear, and man had taken 
 permanent possession of the spot." 
 
 Thus the beautiful city of Melbourne began 
 with one house " by the banks of the Yarra." 
 One wishes the man who first built could see 
 Elizabeth Street to-day. Surely his name ought 
 to be emblazoned at the top and bottom of the 
 street. Poor Batman died in 1839, so he did not 
 see more than just the beginnings of that 
 settlement he had laboured so hard to found. 
 Mr. Fawkner lived to an advanced age, and saw the 
 city whose first house he had built become a 
 vast metropolis. 
 
 The year 1839 brought further increase of popu- 
 lation, and before the beginning of 1840 there 
 were 3,000 persons, with 500 houses and 70 shops, 
 in Melbourne. In 1841 it contained 11,000 persons 
 and 1,500 shops. So astounding was the rapidity 
 of its growth that the figures will seem incredible 
 to English readers ; but I have quoted them 
 from that sober-minded historian, Mr. Sutherland. 
 Wonder grows on wonder when we reflect how 
 Melbourne has kept on growing, and is still in- 
 creasing on every hand. What it may become, 
 with all its vast possibilities, no man can even
 
 MELBOURNE ITSELF. 83 
 
 guess. May the blessing of Him that dwelt in 
 the bush rest upon it from the beginning of the 
 year to the end through all its future history. 
 Lovely Melbourne ! Beautiful Melbourne ! We 
 shall never forget thee, nor the friends within thy 
 borders, who poured upon us their kindness and 
 gave to us Christian and unstinted hospitality.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 OFF TO TASMANIA. 
 
 I linger o'er the long wave's darkening flow, 
 But the cold sea-moan bids me rise and go ; 
 And yon faint sun-glow on the quivering main 
 Says, To-morrow we shall meet again. 
 
 This shore I quit, these rocks, this wondrous sea, 
 Of all things great the greatest still to me ; 
 These golden gleams of sunset's lingering bliss ; 
 Yon far-off dimple from the dying-kiss 
 
 Of wave and sky ; this gentle, gentle song 
 
 Of the lone sea breeze as it sighs along ; 
 
 The sweet low ripple note that comes and goes 
 
 From this grey sand-slope when the tide still flows. 
 
 WE left Melbourne for Tasmania on a broiling 
 hot day in December, and the send-off we had 
 was good enough for the Prince of Wales, though 
 not quite so grand. We may not give the names 
 of all the friends who came to bid us farewell, 
 but they are written on our hearts, there to live 
 in glad and grateful memory. It was a parting 
 not to be forgotten, for we seemed to have lived 
 together all our lives ; so much had been crowded 
 into one brief fortnight that we almost felt that 
 we were going from old friends and our old home 
 to a foreign land. Positively, I do not believe 
 that there is anything left on earth that so knits 
 human hearts together as simple worship and 
 strenuous effort to bless and help our fellow-men ; 
 and that was just what we had all been doing, 
 " in season and out of season," for a fortnight. 
 
 84
 
 OFF TO TASMANIA. 85 
 
 Be thab as it may, we had become very friendly, 
 and now mighty seas must separate us, and we 
 wondered if we should ever meet again. 
 
 The voyage across the Strait to Tasmania was 
 uneventful. We went on a small craft called the 
 Coogee, the sea being very kind to us ; had it been 
 rough, we should have had a merry time on board 
 such a small boat. When we reached the other 
 side of the Strait we found there was a long 
 and beautiful river running up from the sea to 
 Launceston ; it was somewhat like going up the 
 Orwell from Harwich to Ipswich, only much longer. 
 
 Launceston is a pretty little town at what ap- 
 peared to be the head of the river, though the 
 river flows on further up into the country, which 
 is very beautiful all up behind the town. There 
 are plenty of hills and valleys, with well-cultivated 
 farms, and they all looked prosperous and well- 
 kept. Everything there is much more Englishlike 
 than in Queensland or the other mainland colonies ; 
 the trees and hedges are more English and homelike, 
 the air is equable, pure, fresh and cool. We hailed 
 it with delight after the heat we had endured since 
 leaving good Old England. Everybody told us 
 that Tasmania is the healthiest place in all the 
 world, and that many come there with lung diseases 
 only to get well. To us the island was refreshing 
 and delightful, and the people were as good as 
 the climate. 
 
 We mingled with our Baptist friends at Laun- 
 ceston, but we also had a public Reception. Our 
 friend, Mr. Eddy, the pastor of the Baptist Church, 
 met us as we landed, and from first to last 
 arranged everything for our comfort with the 
 utmost enthusiasm and kindness. We met the
 
 86 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Free Church ministers of the town, and spent some 
 hours in close conference about Church life and 
 work in the Old Country. Here, as everywhere, 
 we found the keenest and most intelligent interest 
 was taken in the political, social, and religious 
 life of England, the one absorbing topic being the 
 Education question ; and had the men lived in 
 London instead of Launceston they could not 
 have been more concerned about it, or more bitterly 
 opposed to the Act. It all came out one night 
 when we gave a lecture in the large Baptist chapel, 
 which was crowded to excess, all the Free Church 
 ministers being on the platform. At the close of 
 the lecture strong speeches were made on the 
 Education Bill, and a resolution was enthusiastic- 
 ally carried condemning the whole policy of the 
 Bill, and at once the meeting despatched it to 
 Dr. Clifford. Whatever may be thought of the 
 two Education Acts here in England, there is but 
 one feeling about them in all the Free Churches 
 in the Colonies. Indeed, in all other great Free 
 Church questions they are intensely one with our 
 Churches at home. There is a feeling everywhere 
 out there of union with us here, and I for one 
 think what I thought when there, that it would 
 be comparatively easy for the Free Church Federa- 
 tion at home to form a federation with all the Free 
 Churches in the Colonies, and so belt the globe 
 with a holy brotherhood based upon Free Church 
 principles. The Rev. Thomas Law is quite equal 
 to the task of organising this, gigantic though it 
 be ; and I believe that if the Council at home 
 could see its way to appeal to our brethren abroad, 
 there would be a splendid response. Is not this a 
 desirable thing and worthy of a great effort to
 
 OFF TO TASMANIA. 87 
 
 accomplish ? A federation of all the Free 
 Churches in Queensland, New South Wales, 
 Victoria, Western Australia, Tasmania, and New 
 Zealand ? The distances are great, but they are 
 all spanned for other purposes and other federa- 
 tions : why not for this ? The brotherhood would 
 be one, and under certain conditions, and for 
 definite Imperial objects we could act together. 
 Great momentous religious conflicts are being 
 forced upon us, and every moral, mental, and 
 religious force we can anyhow unite together will 
 be more and more demanded in the fight for our 
 sacred rights and liberties. These are challenged 
 in the Colonies, as well as here in the old home- 
 land ; and our brothers out there feel it as much 
 as we do. Can we not clasp hands across the seas, 
 and unite hearts, and stand together and fight for 
 the open Word of God, the rights of conscience, 
 and the freedom of the people from the intolerable 
 tyranny of the Pope, the Prelates and the Priest ? 
 Perhaps the Memorial Hall, Farringdon Street, 
 London, will become the centre of this movement, 
 with the globe for its circumference. With the 
 most happy memories of all the meetings of our 
 own Free Church brethren in all the Colonies we 
 visited, we modestly suggest this scheme. 
 
 Since writing the above, I have talked this great 
 matter over with Rev. Thomas Law, Secretary 
 of our Free Church Federation, and find that the 
 thought of a universal federation of all Free 
 Churches has long been in his mind. I, for one, 
 devoutly wish a deputation, say of Mr. Law and 
 another, could visit Australia, Tasmania, and New 
 Zealand, to meet and confer with our Free Church 
 ministers and their Churches on this all-important
 
 88 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 subject. I venture to say they would receive a 
 most cordial and hearty reception from all the 
 Churches, and who knows what far-reaching and 
 momentous results would follow ? 
 
 From Launceston we visited some of the little 
 towns and villages in the outlying districts ; we 
 went up north of the island to Perth, Longford, 
 Devonport, Latrobe and Burnie, the railway taking 
 us through a lovely and fertile land. At Perth we 
 stayed a day or two at a place called Scone, the 
 palatial residence of Mr. W. Gibson, standing on 
 the banks of a flowing, tumbling, laughing river, 
 in places having its bed full of boulders, over which 
 the water ripples and sings with music we love 
 better than all the concerts that man can provide. 
 This river teems with trout, and is a very ideal 
 spot for all lovers of Izaak Walton's gentle pastime. 
 We tried our hand, but the wily trout knew we 
 were strangers and kept away ; we toiled all the 
 evening in a downpour of rain and caught nothing. 
 But our little stay at Scone was very delightful ; 
 it is an ideal place in all respects. If we could 
 have our choice, there we should like to live. 
 
 We soon returned to Launceston, to the home 
 of our kind host at Cluny. Ah ! beautiful, quiet, 
 little Cluny ! It is built on the side of a hill, just 
 outside the town, and overlooks a pastoral vale, 
 with a range of hills covered with bush in the 
 distance. We sat on the verandah of Cluny and 
 revelled in the charming view stretched out before 
 us. Our host is a solicitor in the town, and a 
 staunch and radical Baptist of the old English 
 type ; and we only wish all our Baptist folk at 
 home were more like him in this respect. In his 
 house we had our first taste of Tasmanian hos-
 
 OFF TO TASMANIA. 89 
 
 pitality, and it was like all that had preceded it 
 generous and unstinted kindness ; so that we 
 left Launceston singing a song of thanksgiving to 
 God and man. It had been another happy visit, 
 another triumph for things and principles very 
 dear to our hearts. 
 
 Now we were off to Hobart. We had heard 
 and read much about Hobart, its harbour, its 
 beauty, and its surroundings ; but the half had 
 not been told us. It is certainly a very charming 
 place, and it did not look much like being any part 
 of Van Dieman's Land, of which we heard so much 
 in our boyhood. All the unimaginable, unspeak- 
 able horrors of which humanity is capable were 
 in that name ; for to be transported to Van 
 Dieman's Land was an unthinkable woe. Hobart 
 was once the headquarters of the convict settle- 
 ment, and Port Arthur, where the great prison 
 was, is not very far away, on the Tasman 
 peninsula. The strong, empty prison building, in 
 its beautiful surroundings, is a place of pilgrimage 
 for sightseers to-day. Could the walls speak, 
 they would tell tales of injustice, sufferings and 
 woes that our English convicts there once endured. 
 It was an insane system, and, thank God, it is 
 wiped out of our criminal code. 
 
 In the year 1837 Sir John Franklin became the 
 Governor of Tasmania, and he soon found it a 
 difficult and thankless task to manage all the 
 elements of such a mixed community as he found 
 there. In 1840 transportation to New South Wales 
 was stopped, and it was then thought that 
 Tasmania would likewise be delivered from being 
 a penal settlement ; and with this sort of tacit 
 understanding large numbers of hard-working
 
 90 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 people emigrated to the Colony. To their sorrow 
 they soon found that " Tasmania was not only 
 to continue, as before, a receptacle for British felons, 
 but was in fact to be made the only convict settle- 
 ment, and was destined to receive the full stream 
 of criminals that had formerly been distributed 
 over several Colonies." The effect of this was 
 disastrous to the whole island, and many of those 
 who had settled there packed up and left for 
 Australia. 
 
 The state of affairs was becoming intolerable. 
 "Between the years 1846 and 1850 more than 
 25,000 convicts had been sent to Tasmania ; free 
 immigration had ceased, and the number of 
 convicts in the Colony was nearly double the 
 number of free men. In all parts of the world, 
 if it became known that a man came from 
 Tasmania, he was looked upon with the utmost 
 distrust and suspicion, and he was shunned as 
 contaminated." This state of things could not 
 last. That great Englishman, statesman, and 
 patriot, Mr. W. E. Gladstone, was then Secretary 
 of State for the Colonies, and he complained that 
 he did not get the facts concerning what was going 
 on in Tasmania ; and he was not the man to hush 
 up what was wrong. He said plainly that Sir 
 Eardley Wilmot, then Governor of the Colony, 
 " had sent home vague statements for the pur- 
 pose of deceiving the Imperial authorities, and 
 the Governor was at once recalled." But he 
 never reached home. He was taken ill and died 
 in the Colony. Still, matters were not allowed 
 to remain as they were. 
 
 In the year 1851 the Anti - Transportation 
 League was formed, and the people of the Colonies
 
 OFF TO TASMANIA. 91 
 
 banded themselves together to force the Home 
 Government to emancipate Tasmania. That 
 sounded the death-knell of the hateful system 
 of transportation for criminal offences. In 1850 
 Tasmania, like the other Colonies, had received its 
 Regulative Council ; and when the people pro- 
 ceeded to elect their share of the members, no 
 candidate had the slightest chance of success 
 who was not an adherent of the Anti -Trans- 
 portation League. After this unmistakable 
 expression of opinion, the English authorities no 
 longer hesitated, and the new Secretary of State, 
 the Duke of Newcastle, directed that from the 
 year 1853, transportation to Tasmania should 
 cease. Happy day for Tasmania, and a better 
 day for England's great future ! 
 
 I have written this, quoting freely from Mr. 
 A. Sutherland's History, because I feel sure that 
 few of our English people know anything about 
 the matter. It may interest them and move them 
 to read other books on the subject. It is a 
 thrilling story of a noble struggle by our pioneer 
 colonists up into a brighter and better day. 
 
 Our stay in Hobart was short, but exceedingly 
 pleasant. We visited New Norfolk, going there on 
 a small steamer up the exquisitely beautiful river 
 Derwent, with towering mountains on both sides, 
 and on a perfect summer day, Monday, December 
 15th. We picnicked all day, and feasted on 
 raspberries and cream, with plenty of fine straw- 
 berries, and, of course, we had the inevitable 
 " billy." It was all hospitality again repeated 
 in true Colonial style. This time our host was a 
 plain, good Wiltshire man, who went to Tasmania 
 for his health more than for his fortune ; and he
 
 92 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 found the one and made the other, and is now a 
 great, generous soul, doing good all round. May 
 peace and prosperity abide upon his household ! 
 
 Our old friend, the Rev. James Blaikie, arranged 
 everything for us. We had a breakfast Reception 
 at an hotel by all the Free Church ministers of 
 the town. It was a most happy gathering, and 
 again we took time to discuss many matters con- 
 cerning our Free Church life at home and out 
 there ; and the Education question was still the 
 absorbing topic of all the ministers. One Presby- 
 terian veteran, who had been there for nearly 
 fifty years, told us some thrilling stories of early 
 mission work in the island. He had forded rivers, 
 slept in huts, met with bushrangers, escaped 
 convicts, and all manner of strange and exciting 
 adventures. How much the world owes to such 
 men, at home and abroad! We feel deeply in- 
 debted to the ministers of Hobart for that pleasant 
 and informing meeting. Our time was now up, 
 and we had to move on ; one more sea had to 
 be crossed, and one more Colony visited, and 
 this time it was famous New Zealand, the land 
 and home of Mr. Richard Seddon.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 " The Lord thy God bringeth thee into a good land, a land 
 of brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out 
 of the valleys and hills ; a land of wheat and barley, and vines 
 and fig trees and pomegranates ; a land of oil olives and honey; 
 a land wherein thou shalt eat bread without scarceness, thou 
 shalt not lack anything in it ; a land whose stones are iron, 
 and out of whose hills thou mayest dig brass." 
 
 DEUTERONOMY vm. 7-9. 
 
 IN no other book could we find such an accurate 
 description of the land which we now visited 
 as this picture in the Book of Deuteronomy, 
 for verily New Zealand is all that and more. If 
 it does not grow pomegranates and olives, it 
 grows other most luxurious fruits and lucrative 
 things of commerce. It is indeed " a land of 
 brooks of water, of fountains and depths that 
 spring out of the valleys and hills." As we saw 
 it, abundance of everything seemed to spring up 
 out of the ground " and bring forth some thirty, 
 some forty, and some a hundred fold." 
 
 We traversed the land from south to north, 
 from Invercargill to Auckland. We went to out- 
 of-the-way places, and saw little towns, villages, 
 and farms, and saw all manner of crops, and cattle, 
 and sheep, and creameries where the butter is 
 made that comes into our English market. On 
 the coast we saw huge ships being loaded with 
 thousands of carcases of mutton for home con-
 
 94 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 sumption, and every hill and valley was covered 
 with sheep growing fat and ready to be sent to 
 England. There is an abundance of grass, and 
 the land is so good that the milking-cows and 
 store cattle grow fat as they browse on the hills 
 and rest in the valleys ; there are rich, wide- 
 spreading plains that seem inexhaustible. Of 
 course, there are serious disadvantages in a young 
 and new country like New Zealand. Railways 
 into the interior are scarce, and transit of produce 
 to the coast is difficult. Railway-making there is 
 very costly, because of the hills to be climbed or 
 tunnelled and the tremendous gorges to be spanned. 
 Want of capital is the one hindrance. Still, the 
 Government is pushing on with new lines, and a 
 vast development of the resources of the land 
 must ultimately come. We can but think that 
 there is a great future for New Zealand. 
 
 There is a good service of boats running from 
 Hobart to New Zealand, calling at the Bluff, 
 Dunedin, Wellington, New Plymouth, and other 
 places. We went on the Mokoia a good ship, 
 and " well-found " in all respects and we landed 
 at the Bluff, on the South Island and only eighteen 
 miles from Invercargill. The Bluff is a small 
 port just inside a great headland close to the 
 open sea, and is mainly used for shipping agri- 
 cultural produce to Australia and England, but 
 the passenger ships call there on their way round 
 the islands, both South and North. Here you 
 leave the ship for the train which runs up to Inver- 
 cargill. For years we had been familiar with 
 the name of this place, as we had relatives living 
 there, and now we were about to visit them. 
 Invercargill is a neat little town of about 10,000
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 95 
 
 inhabitants, and in only a few years has grown 
 to what it is. The streets are wider and cleaner 
 than in any town or city in the world. It is quite 
 a walk across Dee Street from one shop to 
 another, and it looks as if one shop were somewhere 
 due north and the other somewhere due south ! 
 It appeared to us to be unwieldy and out of pro- 
 portion. We thought of Broad Street, Milk Street, 
 and Gutter Lane in our own City, as we tramped 
 all across Dee Street. 
 
 Twenty-five years ago Mrs. Cuff's brother 
 settled here, when Invercargill was in its infancy. 
 His name was Joseph Perry ; his business was that 
 of nurseryman and seedsman. He was an honest, 
 sober, honourable man just the sort of man to 
 lay foundations on which others may build, and 
 this he nobly did, and then failed in health and 
 died. He sleeps with many more from all parts 
 of England in the cemetery at Invercargill ; and 
 as we stood at his grave we recalled him as he was 
 when he left us, and thanked God for such a quiet, 
 useful life. 
 
 We stayed with our brother's widow in a pretty 
 little Colonial house at Gladstone, one of the 
 rising suburbs at Invercargill. The few days 
 there were quiet and pleasant to the last degree. 
 It was the end of December, but the weather was 
 like our June, and the days were almost as long. 
 We spent Christmas Day with the Rev. John 
 Muirhead, the Baptist minister of the town a 
 strange Christmas Day to us. To begin with, it 
 was blazing hot, and we sighed for a blizzard, 
 and longed for a game of snowballing. We 
 dreamed of our old-fashioned Christmas at home, 
 with a Yule-log on the hearthstone, and the old
 
 96 SUNNY MEMORIES OP AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 chimney-corner in grandfather's house in Glouces- 
 tershire, where we sat when a child ; but while 
 we got neither of these Old World things, imagina- 
 tion and memory did it all and partly satisfied 
 us. Our dinner was unique for Christmas Day, 
 for it consisted of roast lamb and green peas ! 
 Our dyspepsia was considered, and so plum- 
 pudding and mince pies were not in the menu. 
 We thought of the roast beef and roast turkey 
 of Old England, and the dear children at home 
 who would feast that day on such viands. Still, 
 we spent a quiet, happy day, and hoped the poor 
 people in Shoreditch had had their usual Christmas 
 dinner notwithstanding our absence and we 
 learned afterwards that they did have it. Our 
 good friends at home saw to that, and we were 
 glad. 
 
 Our next move was to Dunedin a seven hours' 
 journey by rail, through a very fertile country, 
 and the line runs not far from the famous lakes 
 which nearly all visitors admire. Sir Joseph 
 Ward, the Minister of Railways, had very generously 
 sent us a free pass over all the lines of the Colony, 
 so that it cost us nothing to travel by rail. We 
 had an interview with Sir Joseph at Wellington, 
 and he was in every way kind to us. We appre- 
 ciated all this more than we can say, and gratefully 
 set it down in this little book. 
 
 On Saturday. December 27, we arrived at 
 Dunedin. Pretty Dunedin ! Wonderful Dunedin ! 
 Wonderful indeed when we reflect on its beginnings, 
 its growth, and all its developments. There are 
 two intensely interesting little books on this fine 
 little town. One is called " The Old Identities." 
 This is plain, blunt, and very entertaining, much
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 97 
 
 of it being very quaint ; but the book is full of 
 information about men and matters that made 
 Dunedin what it is to-day. It was written by an 
 " Old Identity " and for more reasons than one 
 I think he must have been a Scotsman. The 
 other book is called " Fifty Years Syne," and was 
 written by the Rev. James Chisholme. It is a 
 fine story of fifty years' history of the Presbyterian 
 Church and work in Otago. Dunedin was at the 
 outset, and is now, a 'Presbyterian colony, 
 their churches being the pride and glory of the 
 town to-day. The chiefest and best monuments 
 of the place are those erected to perpetuate the 
 memory and honour of their great and good 
 ministers ; and these monuments stand in the 
 most prominent positions in the town, and are 
 conspicuous objects of interest and history to all 
 visitors. There is also one fine bronze statue of 
 Robert Burns. Of course, such a Scottish town 
 as Dunedin would not be complete without some 
 potent reminder of Scotland's one great poet. 
 We wondered that that great, wonderful, and 
 fervent philosopher, Thomas Carlyle, was absent, 
 but they will surely give him a place near Burns 
 yet, for we saw that there is plenty of room close 
 by in the centre of the town. We felt glad and 
 proud that the people of Dunedin had exalted 
 their pastors to pedestals of the highest historical 
 honours they could confer upon them. 
 
 We looked at Dunedin from almost every point 
 of view ; we were driven to the top of the fine 
 hills all round and above it, and along the edge 
 of the river below it. It looked snug and compact, 
 and sheltered from every point of view. We 
 marvelled greatly at the quickness of its growth 
 
 7
 
 98 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 and development, as well as at its present stability 
 and business success. Down to the year 1848 
 the site on which it stands was a wild, howling 
 wilderness, surrounded by hills and dells, of 
 bush and scrub. " An uninhabited land till the 
 Otagans par excellence came here all about the 
 harbour, and the site of Dunedin was literally 
 such with the exception of a few natives. With 
 that exception all was solitude, deep, unbroken, 
 silent. The story of the landing and early adventures 
 of the two pioneer parties of emigrants who arrived 
 at Port Chalmers on the 22nd of March and 
 15th of April, 1848, who landed on the shores of 
 a new and uninhabited country, with the untrodden 
 ferns and the unbroken bush all around, with no 
 accommodation provided, no immigrants' barracks, 
 and no tents in their possession to erect 326 
 brave souls, stout-hearted men and women is 
 full of the elements of romance." Yes, and 
 something else besides romance ; suffering, hardi- 
 hood, endurance, hard work, and ultimate triumph 
 over all manner of difficulties. But then they 
 were Scotsmen, and therefore plucky and persistent. 
 It is a suggestive fact that the ship that took 
 the first party out was the John Wickliffe ; she 
 thus bore the name of a truly great and noble 
 Englishman, who was a pioneer of all that has 
 worked to make England free and great and 
 good. We owe to John Wickliffe's memory a 
 debt which we can never pay. The John 
 Wickliffe dropped her anchor at Port Chalmers, 
 after a stormy voyage, with ninety passengers 
 on board. The second ship, called the Philip 
 Laing, arrived next with 236 immigrants, and 
 she arrived at the setting in of the most severe
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 99 
 
 winter that has ever been experienced since the 
 foundation of the settlement. Surely it must have 
 been a cheerless, dreary prospect for the poor 
 settlers as they looked up to those lonely, silent, 
 bush-covered hills through the pelting and incessant 
 rain ; but while hardships tested their courage, 
 they were equal to it all, and bravely began their 
 work of clearing the land. 
 
 Thus the foundations of Dunedin were laid, and 
 between 1849 and now it has grown into the brisk 
 and flourishing town we see to-day, the city and 
 suburbs having a population of 52,390. 
 
 Here we were entertained by one of the leading 
 tradesmen of the place, and everything that 
 kindness and generosity could do for our comfort 
 was lavishly done. Here, too, we met old friends 
 from Bury St. Edmund's, and we talked of days 
 long ago, and of friends long gone. There was 
 real pathos hi it all, for we seemed to live over 
 again in the happy past ; men and things came 
 back to us with the grip of early days. After 
 all, few things are better than these. 
 
 We were at Dunedin on New Year's Day, the 
 most popular holiday of the year hi New Zealand, 
 and we were anxious to see how the people enjoyed 
 themselves on their holiday. We started early to 
 go to a place called Puketiraki, some miles from 
 Dunedin, right up in the mountains, a wild and 
 lonely place looking right down on the sea. There 
 was to be a Maori fete in their language, a harka, 
 which means a war dance. Before we reached the 
 railway station we saw that this harka was a very 
 popular affair, for all Dunedin seemed to be astir ; 
 there were thousands of people at the station, 
 and three trains had already gone to the Maori
 
 100 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 fete. The train we went by was a very long one, 
 and had two engines attached to it, most of the 
 carriages being coal and goods trucks of every 
 description. These were provided with rough 
 planks for seats, and covered with tarpaulin or 
 coarse canvas for shelter from the sun or rain. 
 Every truck was packed full of people ; everybody 
 was good-tempered and happy, and seemed quite 
 accustomed to the fashion of truck-travelling. 
 
 What we saw when we reached Puketiraki was 
 the most wild, weird, and savage scene we had 
 ever witnessed ; and this was our first contact 
 with the Maoris. They are a wonderful people, 
 and their history has yet to be written. Some 
 books about them have already appeared, but 
 it is a big story and needs to be well and adequately 
 told. We saw their war dance in a lovely dell, 
 with surroundings of beauty on every hand. It 
 is impossible to describe this dance, but it is an 
 awful and savage display. They always performed 
 it before going into battle, and so worked one 
 another up into a most terrible fury, and looked 
 as though they would face and fight actual devils- 
 Our British soldiers certainly had real warriors to 
 face when they fought the Maoris of New Zealand. 
 Here is a vivid description of a war dance by one 
 who saw many and understood the people well : 
 
 " The elite of the two tribes are now opposite 
 to each other, all armed, all kneeling, and formed 
 into two solid oblong masses, the narrow end of the 
 oblong to the front. Only thirty yards divide 
 them ; the front ranks do not gaze on each other ; 
 both parties turn their eyes towards the ground, 
 and with heads bent downwards, and a little on 
 one side, appear to listen. You might have heard
 
 A GROUP OF MAORI WOMEN.
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 101 
 
 a pin drop. The uproar has turned to a calm ; 
 the men are kneeling statues ; the chiefs have 
 disappeared they are in the centre of their tribes. 
 Suddenly, from the extreme rear of the strangers' 
 column is heard a scream a horrid yell. A savage 
 of herculean stature comes, mere in hand, rushing 
 .madly to the front. He seems hunted by all the 
 Furies. Bedlam never produced so horrid a visage. 
 Thrice, as he advances, he gives that horrid cry, 
 and thrice the tribe give answer with a long-drawn 
 gasping sigh. He is at the front ; he jumps into 
 the air, shaking his stone weapon ; the whites 
 only of his eyes are visible, giving a most hideous 
 appearance to the face. He shouts the first words 
 of the war song, and instantly his tribe spring from 
 the ground. It would be hard to describe the 
 scene which follows the roaring chorus of the 
 war song, the horrid grimaces, the eyes all white, 
 the .tongues hanging out, the furious and yet 
 measured gesticulation, jumping, and stamping. 
 I felt the ground plainly trembling. At last the 
 war dance ended."* 
 
 But, then, there were plenty more Maori things 
 to come which were very curious and very enter- 
 taining. A baby baptism according to the rites 
 and ceremonies of the Maoris was performed, 
 and was almost as wild and grotesque as the war 
 dance. The ceremony was gone through with 
 wonderful gusto, and with the loud laughter of the 
 crowd round the dell in which it was performed. 
 Then we saw how they cooked their food, and this 
 time it was a whole bullock split down the middle 
 in true English order, which was to be baked. 
 The oven is a hole dug in the ground, and filled with 
 
 * Old New Zealand. By a Pakela Maori. Page 52.
 
 102 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 large stones, which are made almost red-hot. 
 The two sides of the ox are then laid on the hot 
 stones, and carefully covered up with large cloths 
 or wrappers. Then it is all closely covered over 
 with earth, and well patted down to keep every 
 bit of heat in. In due course the mould is cleared 
 away, and there lie the two sides of beef as clean 
 as a pin, and well cooked ; they lie on two long 
 poles, which are put on the top of the stones. 
 The men lifted up the whole cooked side of beef, 
 and put it on a raised and large platform, and 
 there, in the presence of the whole people, cut 
 it up, and sold it to any who would buy. There 
 were no weights or scales ; pieces were sold at so 
 much each, by men who quite understood their 
 business. The meat was mostly eaten on the 
 spot ; many took it away, but we were not pur- 
 chasers. We understood that the Maoris have 
 done this from time immemorial, and this cooking 
 feat interested us above all we saw on that eventful 
 day. We returned to Dunedin in a cattle-truck with 
 our kind, good host and his family. New Year's 
 Day, 1903, will never be forgotten by us, for it 
 was crowded with strange incidents and fascinating 
 interest. We thankfully record that we did not 
 see one man the worse for drink during the whole 
 day of pure, healthy enjoyment in the open air. 
 Everywhere we were deeply impressed with the 
 fact that the people in the Colonies know how to 
 enjoy themselves on their holidays without getting 
 drunk. When will our people at home learn to do 
 the same ? It will be a happy day for Old England 
 when that day dawns. 
 
 It is only right, and quite within the truth, to 
 say that Dunedin is a religious town ; churches
 
 WE Go TO NEW ZEALAND. 103 
 
 and chapels abound, and they are by no means 
 empty. We worshipped with the Baptists on 
 the Sunday, and found there is a strong and vigorous 
 church there. We also met all the Free Church 
 ministers of the town, and had a long conference with 
 them on Church life at home and in New Zealand. 
 Again the Education question was the absorbing 
 topic. We left Dunedin with happy memories 
 that will live the rest of our days.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHRISTCHURCH. 
 
 The best friend is an atmosphere 
 
 Warm with all inspiration dear, 
 
 Wherein we breathe the large free breath 
 
 Of life that hath no taint of death. 
 
 Our friend is an unconscious part 
 
 Of every true beat of our heart ; 
 
 A strength, a growth, whence we derive 
 
 God's health that keeps the world alive. 
 
 Can friend lose friend ? Believe it not ! 
 The tissue whereof life is wrought, 
 Weaving the separate into one, 
 Nor end hath, nor beginning ; spun 
 From subtle threads of destiny, 
 Finer than thought of man can see. 
 God takes not back His gifts divine ; 
 While thy soul lives thy friend is thine. 
 
 IT is a splendid run from Dunedin to Christchurch. 
 For a few miles the train runs along the edge of the 
 river, under the hills which tower above almost 
 into the clouds ; but at Port Chalmers it bears off 
 to the left, and goes right up into the mountains. 
 Then we go along close to the sea, and in places 
 on the very ledge of the rocks, hundreds of feet 
 above the water, the rocks being quite perpendicular, 
 straight down to the sea. There is not even a 
 rail between the train and the bottom ; it made our 
 flesh creep as the train climbed slowly up, and 
 then whizzed quickly down into a valley on the other 
 side of the mountain. Then we climbed again, 
 and on we sped up and down hill, all through beauti- 
 
 104
 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHRISTCHURCH. 105 
 
 ful scenery, and never far from the great ocean, 
 till we reached the far-famed Canterbury plains, 
 when it is a level run all the way to Christchurch. 
 It is nearly a day's journey, as the trains run only 
 about twenty-five miles an hour because of the 
 ascents and descents, for in both cases they must 
 go slowly. 
 
 We reached Christchurch safe and sound, to 
 receive a very cordial and hearty welcome from 
 the Rev. R. S. Gray, who is the Baptist minister 
 there. We were strangers to each other, but not 
 for long ; he took us to his beautiful Colonial house 
 and home, and we at once settled down another 
 pleasant, quiet resting-place in our long journey. 
 Here we were in our natural element ; we rested 
 in perfect contentment till we had to move on once 
 more. Mr. and Mrs. Gray spared nothing that could 
 in any way minister to our comfort and pleasure. 
 We spent a Sunday there, and the least I could do 
 was to preach for him, in a large and handsome 
 chapel, which was crowded at each service. From 
 my heart I wish for my friend a life-long success. 
 
 Christchurch is a lovely city ; nature has been 
 kind to it, and lavished her refined beauties all 
 around in unsparing profusion. A charming river 
 flows round about and through the town. The finest 
 weeping willow trees we ever saw adorn the banks 
 of that river ; we had often seen what are called 
 weeping willows which are only apologies for such 
 trees when compared with those we saw at Christ- 
 church. Their largeness, luxurious foliage, and 
 long, hanging traces of perfect green dipping down 
 into the river were positively enchanting to behold. 
 As we wandered by the side of this lovely stream, 
 we thought of Job's fine description, and felt its
 
 106 SUNNY MEMORIES OP AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 poetic beauty on that hot day : " The shady trees 
 cover him with their shadow ; the willows of the 
 brook compass him about." 
 
 In a carriage, and with a pair of spanking horses, 
 kind friends drove us all round and about the city. 
 We went to the outskirts under the hills on one 
 side, and along the plain down to the sea on the 
 other ; we therefore had a good view of the whole 
 place, its suburbs, and its exceedingly fruitful sur- 
 roundings. The land looked rich and the farms 
 well-kept ; the hedges and trees were very English, 
 and we felt it difficult to realise we were thousands 
 of miles from home. 
 
 Christchurch is very ecclesiastical in appearance 
 and tone. Of course, there is no State Church in 
 New Zealand, any more than in Australia. Despite 
 this there is a Churchy tone about almost every- 
 thing in Christchurch, for its Episcopal churches and 
 schools all bear the stamp of the State Church at 
 home. We saw their splendid schools and colleges, 
 and were told they are well-manned and thoroughly 
 equipped for all educational work. There is also a 
 fine museum, full of very deeply interesting objects, 
 which is considered by many the finest museum 
 in all Australasia. 
 
 Our stay in Christchurch was short, but in- 
 tensely interesting, because here we met more old 
 friends from England than in any other place we 
 visited. There were two whole families from 
 Bury St. Edmund's with whom we were very 
 familiar in former years ; and, above all, there 
 was one link between my own church at Shore- 
 ditch and the Baptist church at Christchurch. 
 That link was in the daughter-in-law of a good 
 man named Thomas Pillow, who was a barge-
 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHRISTCHUECH. 107 
 
 owner in Water Lane, Thames Street, for nearly 
 half a century. He was also a faithful and con- 
 sistent member of the church of which I am now 
 pastor, when the first chapel was erected in 1836. 
 For more than a quarter of a century he was a 
 devoted and honoured deacon of the church, 
 and such I found him when I became pastor in 
 the year 1872. He has long since gone to his 
 rest and reward, but in Christchurch we found his 
 daughter-in-law, and her daughter, who is married 
 to one of the leading tradesmen of the city. In 
 their beautiful suburban residence we dined one 
 day, and then, after a period of nearly forty years, 
 we joined hands and heart with Shoreditch, 
 London. It was pathetic to us as we sat and 
 talked of younger days and friends who are only 
 a memory now. 
 
 But our time is up, and we must move on to 
 Wellington. A short run by rail brings us to 
 Lyttelton, where we take the boat to Wellington. 
 We caught the Taraira a small craft going 
 thither. We left Lyttelton at five p.m., and arrived 
 at Wellington at eight the next morning a smooth, 
 quiet passage, and all went well. The Rev. C. 
 Dallaston, the Baptist minister of the city, gener- 
 ously entertained us. He has been in New Zealand 
 for many years, but we were old friends, as we 
 knew each other before he went out, and when he 
 was a student hi Mr. Spurgeon's College. He was 
 the means of building the fine, large chapel at 
 Christchurch, and has lived a blameless life, doing 
 a splendid work in the Colony for over twenty-five 
 years. He is respected and honoured by every- 
 body in the city, and not a little by the great Mr. 
 Seddon himself.
 
 108 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Wellington is a considerable seaport, and all 
 the ships that go round the island call here, and 
 many from all parts of the world. There is a 
 beautiful and large harbour, and big ships of 
 heavy tonnage can go up close to the city, and 
 almost land you in the streets. We saw some 
 very large vessels in the harbour. About the 
 only level places in Wellington are the streets 
 close down to the harbour. These are all 
 on made-up land, formed by pushing back 
 the water of the harbour from its original 
 position. These streets are all full of fine, lofty 
 buildings composed of offices of all kinds. Right 
 facing the harbour and the water stands the 
 General Post Office quite a commanding struc- 
 ture, above all the buildings around. It is uphill 
 everywhere from the harbour, and as you rise you 
 get some fine views of the water stretching away 
 to the sea. 
 
 We were told before we went there that the 
 city was called " Windy Wellington." It is 
 indeed properly named, if it usually blows as 
 it did during the whole time we were there. Our 
 place of sojourn was situated some way up the hill, 
 a wooden house, or I verily believe it would have 
 been blown down. These wooden structures yield 
 to the wind, and so prevent a collapse. Night 
 and day the wind hissed, howled, and thundered 
 round the house ; it did not seem to come from 
 the east, west, north, or south, but from all four 
 points of the compass, and from everywhere else 
 in the heavens and the earth. It shook the house 
 and the bed on which we lay, till one night I said 
 to my dear wife, " Hold tight, dear. We shall be 
 at Auckland presently, if the wind is blowing the
 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHEISTCHURCH. 109 
 
 right way, house and all." Windy Wellington ? 
 Yes, indeed, and with a vengeance. 
 
 Here is the seat and centre of Government, 
 and here the famous Richard Seddon, Premier 
 of the Colony, reigns supreme. Whatever may 
 be thought of Mr. Seddon abroad, he is honoured, 
 trusted, and loved at home ; for wherever we went 
 all through New Zealand, the people stoutly stuck 
 up for him. They were also a little impatient 
 of any criticism of his policy or plans. Undoubt- 
 edly he has a tremendous hold on the people of 
 the whole land. Whether he will be able to carry 
 out his great schemes is open to question, we 
 think ; but he is deadly in earnest, and spares not 
 himself. Altogether he is a very remarkable man, 
 and knows what he is about ; and we think that 
 if his life is spared he will work wonders yet for 
 New Zealand. 
 
 Once more we must move on, and this time to a 
 place called Wanganui, a lovely little spot on the 
 banks of the famous Wanganui River, which 
 many say is the most beautiful river in all the 
 world. Be that as it may, nearly all travellers 
 to New Zealand go up or down this river ; but 
 time forbade our doing either. 
 
 There are two chief railway lines out of Wel- 
 lington, and both are indescribably picturesque 
 and beautiful. The route we took is not less than 
 marvellous ; what it cost to construct the line 
 we cannot guess. It is laid over the Rimutaka 
 range of mountains, through scenery of great 
 wonder and loveliness, the highest point reached 
 being about 2,389 feet above sea-level. Then 
 begins the descent on the other side, which is so 
 steep that two powerful engines are on each train,
 
 110 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 and you go down about three miles an hour. The 
 train runs along the side of the mountain, 
 where the very narrow valley forms a 
 stupendous gorge. The other side of the valley 
 is close to you, and you can see the bottom hun- 
 dreds of feet beneath. The line is a sort of zig-zag, 
 and the train creeps slowly down like a trailing 
 serpent cautiously moving. We had been to 
 Norway before this, and had travelled from Bergen 
 to Vossevangen by rail. That bit of line is a mar- 
 vellous achievement of engineering skill, but it is 
 small when compared with the line I have just 
 described. We were soon in another wonderful 
 gorge, very different from the other, and in some 
 respects grander ; for it looked as if Nature, by 
 some mighty volcanic convulsion, had split 
 the mountain from top to bottom, and left two 
 perpendicular walls. It is a tremendous chasm, 
 down which a narrow river flows and roars to 
 the sea below. It is an enchanting scene as the 
 train creeps slowly along the lofty ledge, following 
 with many a sharp bend and curve all the sinu- 
 osities of the river. We were soon in a wide, open 
 plain, and on through little settlements and town- 
 ships till we reached Wanganui. We left Welling- 
 ton at 7.25 a.m., and arrived at Wanganui at 9.6 
 p.m. It was a long and exciting day, and we 
 were tired, but a day to be remembered for its 
 sights and scenes utterly out of the way of ordinary 
 life. 
 
 At the station the Rev. A. Dewdney kindly 
 met us, and gave us a hearty English welcome 
 to his home and friends. I wish I could immor- 
 talise these good men, for they acted like brothers 
 to us. All I can do is to set their names down in
 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHKISTCHTJRCH. Ill 
 
 my little book with living gratitude for all they 
 did. We stayed here only two nights, and were 
 the guests of a very entertaining man who is 
 the proprietor and editor of a newspaper. He 
 had been a member of the Legislature, and from 
 him we learned much about the laws and govern- 
 ment of New Zealand. His beautiful little house 
 stands on a knoll overlooking one very pretty 
 part of Wanganui, and giving a peep of the famous 
 river. It was a brief but exceedingly pleasant 
 visit, and we left this growing little town with 
 sincere thanks to all concerned. 
 
 Our next move was our last up the island, 
 and our destination was Auckland. You 
 journey from Wanganui to New Plymouth, where 
 the boat awaits the express and takes you on to 
 Auckland. We reached New Plymouth at 8.15 
 p.m., and the boat left the small harbour at 8.50- 
 It was the Rotoiti, a small boat for a rough sea 
 voyage, but everything on board was clean, and 
 all was well managed. We had another calm, 
 quiet voyage, and arrived at the port for Auckland 
 at nine o'clock in the morning. This little port 
 is called Onehunga, and the train from Auckland 
 meets the boat ; it is only a few miles from Auck- 
 land, and the line is laid through the fields where 
 many a fierce battle was fought between the 
 Maoris and our English soldiers. The little hills 
 even now show plainly where their entrenchments 
 were. 
 
 At Onehunga our old friend, the Rev. J. Clark, 
 met and welcomed us to Auckland. He has not 
 been out there many years, but we knew him 
 well before he left the Old Country. We were to 
 be his guests during our stay here, and right
 
 112 SUNNY MEMOBIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 heartily did he and his dear wife and children 
 entertain us. He is the minister of the famous 
 Auckland Tabernacle, which was built for the 
 early ministry of Mr. Thomas Spurgeon, now pastor 
 of the church at the Metropolitan Tabernacle, 
 London, a son of that great and wonderful man, 
 C. H. Spurgeon, who followed his father in the 
 pastorate at the world- renowned Tabernacle. 
 The Auckland Tabernacle is a large and beautiful 
 building, and seats about 1,200 people. We felt 
 it a signal honour to preach in it on the Sunday, 
 for we honour and love the name of Spurgeon, 
 and that name will cling to it for ever. 
 
 Auckland is another fine city, and justly the 
 pride and glory of New Zealand. Wellington is 
 more central, or Auckland must have been the 
 capital of the island and the centre of govern- 
 ment. It has a magnificent harbour, and plenty 
 of room for almost indefinite development. More- 
 over, it is growing very fast, and they were build- 
 ing new and large shipping sheds well-nigh all 
 over the harbour front. Everything looked busy 
 as busy could be, and we venture to think 
 that Auckland is destined to increase and become 
 a great centre of commerce, not only for New 
 Zealand, but for a much wider world. 
 
 One day we drove to the top of a small moun- 
 tain which is close to the city. The authorities 
 have made a good road to the top, and you 
 go up one way and down another. The mountain 
 is plainly an extinct volcano, and is mostly made 
 up of black volcanic dust. From its summit we 
 had a most magnificent view of the city, the har- 
 bour, and all the surroundings for many miles. 
 We are not sure it was not the best and grandest
 
 WE MOVE ON TO CHRISTCHURCH. 113 
 
 view we had anywhere in all our travels ; at least 
 it was different in many respects, and altogether 
 utterly enchanting. There were great sheets of 
 water everywhere in the distance, which seemed 
 to be locked in by towering hills on every hand. 
 We could see no outlet, but of course there was 
 one. It was a wonderful outlook, it profoundly 
 impressed us, and the vision is still before us as 
 we write. 
 
 Here, at Auckland, we had our last Reception, 
 by the Free Church ministers of the city. 
 The same deep, earnest spirit was manifested 
 as in other places. There was the same tone 
 of intense spiritual life, and sincere interest in all 
 that concerns the best life of the Old Country. 
 Talk about the waning loyalty of our Colonies ! 
 Mr. Chamberlain ought to mix with the sort of 
 men I mixed so freely with in order to know what 
 loyalty to the Homeland is really like. It is 
 something more than mere political or commer- 
 cial loyalty : it is a passionate love for all that is 
 good and great and true, from the Throne to the 
 man in the street. This was unmistakable in 
 the public speeches of public men, and in all the 
 more private intercourse and social gatherings we 
 had with the people throughout Australasia. We 
 say again, " May the glory of their friendship 
 never wane."
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BOILING MUD, BOILING WATER, GEYSERS, ETC. 
 
 Earth's crammed with heaven, 
 And every common bush afire with God ; 
 But only he who sees takes off his shoes, 
 The rest sit round and pick blackberries. 
 
 " WONDERLAND," of course, had to be seen ; it 
 had been described to us by many who had visited 
 it, in every form of language and in all figures of 
 speech. But nothing had exaggerated the wonders 
 and mysteries of the scene ; the one phrase most 
 often used expressed it best : " You must see it 
 to know what it is like." On this we were fully 
 resolved, and the day came when we started from 
 Auckland for Rotorua. It is a run by rail of about 
 one hundred and fifty miles, south-east from 
 Auckland. The first part of the way the line is 
 laid along a great sandy plain where many a battle 
 has been fought, and it is covered with all sorts 
 of wild growths, many of which we did not know. 
 We were almost choked and quite smothered with 
 dust ; this was really distressing. Never did I see 
 such clouds of dust on any line or road, and never 
 do I wish to see such again. It was pumice dust, 
 and easily shaken off our clothes, but it got into 
 our mouths and nicely ground between our teeth. 
 This great flat once crossed, the whole scene 
 changes, and becomes grand and beautiful beyond 
 description. We began to climb great mountains ; 
 
 114
 
 BOILING MUD, WATER, &c. 115 
 
 for miles and miles we climbed and wound in all 
 sorts of zigzags up and round mighty hills. We 
 went through many narrow gorges, with all the 
 wild, natural and original bush ; all was not only 
 wild, but also most luxuriant and abundant. It 
 was just like going through some strangely en- 
 chanted land where the foot of man had never 
 trod, while the air was pure and keen, and most 
 exhilarating. At the top of the mountain we were 
 1,884 feet above the sea-level. The rest of the 
 journey is a gradual descent to Rotorua. 
 
 We arrived there at 6.30 p.m., strangers in a 
 strange and uncanny land. As soon as we reached 
 the hotel at which we were to stay we saw the 
 first of the many boiling springs which were every- 
 where around us. We were at once in the very 
 centre of the most weird wonders in all the world. 
 The hotel seemed to us to stand on a volcano ; 
 the back garden is full of all manner of boiling, 
 hissing, savage springs quite on the surface of 
 the ground. You can hardly step between them- 
 At the bottom of the garden there is a pond of 
 boiling mud ! This is of a slatey colour, and boils 
 and bubbles as though a huge and fierce fire were 
 underneath, but the fire is not visible. Just out- 
 side the garden and a little to the right, facing the 
 large Rotorua Lake, there is an ancient Maori 
 village, and the sort of road that leads to it is 
 one mass of hot springs, boiling, spitting, hissing 
 at your very feet on every hand. The very earth 
 seemed alive with fiery spirits bent on one's 
 destruction. Here and there were queer stone pots 
 full of boiling water, in which the Maoris cook their 
 food. We watched one woman boil something 
 which she held in a small bag or net as she put it
 
 116 SUNNY MEMOBIES OP AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 into this sort of natural pot. It was soon 
 cooked, and she took it to her house close by. 
 We saw plenty of these pots in other places in the 
 district. 
 
 After dinner, and as the sun was setting, we 
 walked in a public garden, let us call it, close to 
 the hotel ; we were attracted thither by clouds 
 of steam we saw rising from the ground and 
 floating in profusion into the air. The ground 
 was open and free to all comers ; but it was a 
 very uncanny place and half unnerved us as we 
 entered. It is well covered with what is called 
 the ti-tree, a sort of shrub that grows about as 
 high as our raspberry canes. There are paths 
 cut through this growth which in places are only 
 yellow sulphur that crackles under one's feet. 
 Here, there, and everywhere are large and small 
 boiling mud holes, and cloudy wreaths of sulphuric 
 steam rise from them. There were also small 
 sheets of water, steaming with a kind of white 
 mist that lay upon its surface. The whole air 
 was permeated with sulphur, and we could scarcely 
 breathe as we passed through the wafted steam. 
 More than once I heard a voice behind me saying, 
 " Don't go there, dear ; the ground trembles and 
 shakes at your tread." It soon grew dark and we 
 retreated, meaning to rise early and see more on 
 the morrow. 
 
 We had an early breakfast, and at once went 
 back to the place we left the night before, and 
 made further explorations. We found plenty more 
 boiling mud pits of all sizes. Some were thin like 
 muddy water, some were thick thicker than 
 porridge and like boiling dough. At one of these 
 pits we found a man over sixty years of age suffer-
 
 BOILING MUD, WATER, &c. 117 
 
 ing from rheumatism ; he had been in the gold- 
 diggings and had come from Australia " to try 
 the mud cure." Close by the side of a large pit 
 he had made a long, narrow trough very much like 
 a coffin, and he had a small iron bowl or saucepan 
 fixed on the end of a rough pole, with which sort 
 of ladle he filled his trough with the boiling mud, 
 and as soon as it was cool enough to be endured 
 he got in, and there lay for hours, bathing his 
 whole body, except the head, in the mud. I 
 inquired how he got it all off, and he replied, "Oh, 
 I let it dry on in the sun and then I rubs most 
 on't off. But if some sticks on it rather does 
 good than harm." 
 
 Just by this trough sat a young woman with 
 both her hands in a deep bucket of mud ; it 
 reached nearly up to her elbow. She was a martyr 
 to rheumatism in her hands and arms. The mud 
 is full of sulphur, and so has great curative proper- 
 ties. People go to Rotorua from all parts for the 
 water and mud baths. We heard of many won- 
 derful cures entirely from these baths. 
 
 From these public and curious grounds we went 
 to the " Government Sanatorium." This is a 
 building full of all kinds of baths. We were 
 allowed to go in and see them, and found some 
 were large and rudely constructed ; others were 
 small and only for one person at a time. The 
 Government is spending money on the sanatorium 
 and improving the baths. There was one, as a 
 sample, which had just been made, exactly like 
 the beautiful baths at Buxton. There are to be 
 many of these built, and they will greatly improve 
 the famous sanatorium. It ought to be improved, 
 for it stands in the lovely gardens kept up by the
 
 118 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 authorities. They are well-kept, too ; nothing 
 is spared to make them clean, and trim, and 
 beautiful. Here, again, are many boiling springs, 
 some of which are enclosed by a low wall, and in 
 the centre are tubes or pipes up which the water 
 spurts, sputters, and boils. It is not a continuous 
 fizz up ; it pauses and seems quiet, and then 
 sputters again as if something down below had 
 tickled it and made it angry. It seems very 
 savage when it spurts afresh. All these springs 
 seemed to me like so many safety-valves to prevent 
 the force beneath from blowing up the whole 
 place ! 
 
 At 2 p.m. we went to a place about two miles 
 away, called well, spelt Wakarewarewa, and, 
 of course, easily pronounced thus : Wak-a-re- 
 wa-re-wa. It is purely a Maori village, and very 
 wonderful sights are here hi any number and 
 variety. No adequate description of tongue 
 or pen will ever be given, and we shall not 
 attempt it now. We will simply say there are 
 two great geysers here, and we saw one of them 
 in action. It was a frightful sight to me ; all at 
 once it sent up a huge volume of boiling water 
 into the ah 1 , over three hundred feet high, which 
 roared and hissed out of a hole in the solid rock 
 with the utmost fury. If all the imps of the 
 bottomless pit had pumped it up it could not have 
 been more furious or Satanic. For nearly three 
 hours that tremendous operation continued with- 
 out a pause ; and there is no word that can convey 
 to the mind what it is to see that bit of Nature 
 at work. 
 
 The whole place is covered with boiling springs 
 of great volume and of every variety. Here are
 
 BOILING MUD, WATER, &c. 119 
 
 also boiling mud lakes of every size, but all very 
 much alike. Here, too, is the Porridge Pot and 
 the Brain Pot, and the latter has a ghastly story 
 attached to it which we do not care to tell. Let 
 us hope it is not true. It is a place in which we 
 should not like to live, but the Maoris seem quite 
 happy and comfortable amidst all its terrors. 
 We saw the famous guide, Sophia, who had the 
 honour of taking the Prince and Princess of Wales 
 over the whole place when they visited the 
 Colonies. She was not our guide, as she had 
 another party at the time ; but a Maori woman 
 was, one who could speak English quite freely, 
 and she told us many stories of the geysers, their 
 freaks and eruptions, and of the springs and the 
 people. It was all intensely interesting and full 
 of information which one must go there to get ; 
 I have no doubt some of it was fiction, but most 
 of it fact. Anyhow, we left Wakarewarewa 
 with enlarged ideas of the wonders of Nature and 
 the works of God. 
 
 The next day we had another trip full of 
 amazing sights and scenes ; this was to a place 
 called Tikitere. There are two small steam 
 launches which run up the beautiful Rotorua 
 Lake, past and around the Mokoia Island to 
 Hamurana. You land here in a small rowing- 
 boat, and walk about half-a-mile on the bank 
 of a delightful little river. There another small 
 boat takes you a few hundred yards to the great 
 spring, which is at the base of a mountain, right up 
 in a small nook. It seems to be the end of every- 
 where. The ferns and foliage surrounding the nook 
 and growing close down to the water are extremely 
 luxuriant and beautiful. The spring bubbles up
 
 120 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 five million gallons of water every twenty-four 
 hours, the water being clean and pure, and icy 
 cold. It comes up with such steady force that a 
 penny will not sink in it. The hole up which 
 the water comes is not very large, and looks like 
 a great split in the solid rock which forms its sides. 
 This spring seems to have been known to the 
 Maoris from time immemorial. 
 
 From here we returned to the steam launch, 
 and went up the lake to land at another place, 
 where a coach awaited us and took us on to 
 Tikitere. This is a desolate valley, full of mud 
 volcanoes and boiling springs of great variety 
 and furious activity, and is almost always canopied 
 by dense clouds of steam. In the centre of the 
 valley there are two large boiling lakes terribly 
 turbulent. There is a narrow bit of land between 
 the two which forms a kind of path, and is called 
 " Hell's Gate," which we think a very proper 
 name for such a furious and savage place. The 
 earth trembled under our feet, and the scene 
 beneath us and on each side almost confused our 
 senses. We were completely enveloped in clouds 
 of hot, evil-smelling steam, rising from the boiling 
 cauldrons of thin mud on all sides of us. Just 
 across a fearfully treacherous area is the Inferno, 
 a deep, black pit in which a great mud geyser is 
 seething and hissing and growling, its contents 
 all over the fearful hole, its whole action being 
 quite worthy of its suggestive name. The curious 
 thing is that not far away from all this fury there 
 is a healing spring of water which the natives 
 entirely trust and much patronise. There are all 
 sorts of other wonderful things in great activity, 
 such as the Hot Water Falls, where a stream of
 
 BOILING MUD, WATER, &c. 121 
 
 warm water tumbles in small cascades over the 
 rocks. A little way beyond are many mud holes, 
 tossing up nasty slime from one to six feet high. 
 There is one great soaring steam hole called " The 
 Great Fumerole," and it is in constant working 
 order. Tikitere must be seen in order to know 
 what it is all like. 
 
 But here we found a sublime contrast and a 
 sweet relief ; at narrow footpath is cut through the 
 entangled bush for about half-a-mile, and leads 
 you to Rotokawau an enchanting walk, at the 
 end of which is a lovely blue lake, entirely shut in 
 by its own rocky boundaries and surrounded by 
 every beauty Nature can with all her prodigality 
 bestow. Here we sat on the rocks far above the 
 lake, and revelled in the peaceful scene with great 
 relief after the visions of the Inferno. 
 
 We had seen enough of boiling mud pools, hot 
 springs, and geysers, and resolved to retrace our steps 
 to Auckland, and thence to home, sweet home ! 
 When we left Rotorua our every move was home- 
 ward. We had but one more long journey, and 
 that was from Auckland to London, via Hobart 
 and Melbourne.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 HOME, SWEET HOME ! 
 
 Mid pleasures and palaces though we may roam, 
 Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home ; 
 A charm from the skies seems to hallow us there, 
 Which, seek through the wide world, is ne'er met with 
 
 elsewhere. 
 Home, sweet home ! 
 
 Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home. 
 
 An exile from home, pleasure dazzles in vain; 
 O give me my lowly thatched cottage again ! 
 The birds singing gaily that come at my call ; 
 Give me these and that peace of mind dearer than all. 
 Home ! sweet home ! 
 
 Of all that I love best, there is no place like home. 
 
 WE rested at Auckland, a day or two, and then 
 started for home. We went back right down the 
 island to the Bluff. The little ship Rotoite was 
 waiting to take us to New Plymouth ; it was an 
 extremely rough voyage, but we got safely to 
 land, and caught the express to Wellington, and 
 the boat to Lyttelton. Thence we went to Christ- 
 church, Dunedin, and Invercargill, and had another 
 delightful view of the hills and dells and gorges 
 and all that lovely land. In due course we reached 
 the Bluff, and caught the boat for Hobart. She 
 is called the Victoria and is a good sea-going boat, 
 clean, comfortable, and well-managed. On our 
 way we visited the Milford Sound, one of the 
 many such marvellous places which are found 
 round the grand and rugged coast of New Zealand. 
 
 122
 
 HOME, SWEET HOME ! 123 
 
 They are mainly found on the south-western 
 coast, and are long, narrow, and deep. The depth 
 of water at the upper part of Milford Sound, 
 where our ship turned round, is 1,270 feet, while at 
 the entrance it is only 130 feet. It is surrounded 
 by giant mountains, clothed with foliage from 
 the water's edge to the snowline above. There 
 are waterfalls, glaciers, and snowfields at every turn 
 of the Sound, as the ship creeps and winds up the 
 Sound. Some of the mountains rise in an almost 
 perpendicular line from the edge of the water to 
 5,000 and 6,000 feet above the sea. There is a 
 large glacier in a wonderful sort of valley, a long 
 way up the mountain, where the foot of man has 
 never trod. The waterfalls are simply glorious ; but 
 Milford Sound, with all its majesty and glory, 
 must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 The ship crept quietly back, and we were soon 
 in the wide and open sea, with her bow toward, 
 Hobart. There was a very heavy rolling seas 
 and the ship plunged and rolled through and over 
 the mighty hills of water. This continued night 
 and day till we got to Hobart, where we were to 
 meet the good ship Omrah. We liked her so much 
 going out that we carefully arranged to come home 
 in her. She had been to England and back while 
 we were gadding about the Colonies, and was now 
 calling at Hobart for a cargo of Tasmanian apples. 
 We shall never forget what we felt as we caught the 
 first sight of the Omrah coming up the harbour at 
 Hobart ; it was home, sweet home to us. Slowly, 
 surely, majestically, the vessel rounded a point, 
 and then came up the harbour to the wharf. As 
 soon as she was moored we went on board. I 
 stood on the deck, raised my hat, and said, " Three
 
 124 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 cheers for Old England." I knew there were 
 some 15,000 miles between Hobart and London, 
 but what was that when we were going home ? 
 
 It is not that I fear 
 
 To breast the storm or wrestle with the wave, 
 
 To toil, to suffer in this day of strife, 
 
 As He may will who gave this struggling life ; 
 
 But I am homesick ! 
 
 We received a very hearty welcome on board the 
 Omrah from the captain and purser; and soon settled 
 down to the long voyage home. In less than two 
 days we were again in Melbourne, and again we 
 were met, welcomed, and entertained by our dear 
 friends, Mr. and Mrs. Carey ; truly, their kindness 
 knew no limits. A farewell meeting had been 
 arranged to take place that evening at Collins 
 Street Church. As we stepped on to the platform 
 we were amazed to see such a crowd. Some very 
 kind speeches were made about the Old Country, 
 and many references to us which we did not in the 
 least merit or expect. In the midst of it all one 
 of the deacons, Mr. W. J. Stephens, in a very neat 
 and hearty speech, presented me with a purse 
 of 50 for some little service I had felt it my 
 privilege to render to the Baptist Churches of 
 Melbourne. It utterly surprised and overwhelmed 
 me, but thus ended my extremely happy visits to 
 the beautiful city of Melbourne. 
 
 Some who may read this book may think I have 
 been fulsome in my descriptions of persons and 
 things in the Colonies. Well, that has been far 
 from my intention. I could not write coldly 
 about such lavish kindness and generosity which 
 we received from the beginning of our visit to the
 
 HOME, SWEET HOME ! 125 
 
 last hour we were on Australian soil. It was noble, 
 splendid, generous hospitality, in private and in 
 public ; it never waned, or paused, or faltered. 
 We set it down here that our children and home 
 friends may read it and treasure the memory 
 of our Colonial friends when we shall be no 
 more. 
 
 Our voyage home was as delightful as the voyage 
 out. We had, as a matter of course, all kinds of 
 weather, rough and smooth ; but our noble ship 
 Omrah behaved herself well under all conditions, and 
 in all seas, till, with quiet majesty, she passed 
 the Nore and steamed up the Thames. 
 
 On our way we called at Adelaide, and were 
 allowed a few hours to see the city. Here an old 
 friend from London (Mr. C. H. Goode) kindly 
 met us at the station with his carriage and pair, 
 and drove us all round and about the city. What 
 a marvellously beautiful town is Adelaide ! Yet 
 it is quite a young city. Our dear old friend, Mr. 
 Goode, is busily connected with almost every 
 benevolent and philanthropic movement in the 
 place ; he was most enthusiastic about it all. It 
 would be a great pleasure to us to tell the story 
 about the Children's Hospital and other benevolent 
 institutions, but space forbids. Our friend, Mr. 
 Raws, the honoured pastor of one of the Baptist 
 churches in the city, had arranged for a Reception 
 for us here, the last we shall ever have on Australian 
 soil. Many of the leading Free Churchmen met 
 us with the Free Church ministers, and a most 
 hearty and brotherly meeting it was. Every 
 man here, as everywhere else in the whole of the 
 Colonies, was intensely interested in all our English 
 life and doings. Loyalty and patriotism burned
 
 126 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 in the speeches we heard at Adelaide, just as they 
 did in all the Receptions we had attended in every 
 place. We did not mingle with ignorant politicians, 
 or party men with an axe to grind ; but we met and 
 talked freely with those who have the best interests 
 of the Empire at heart. Yes, down deep in their 
 hearts is a love for the Homeland, and that breeds 
 and fosters a real concern for the well-being of our 
 vast Empire. I am not sure that there is not a 
 more intelligent view of this in the Colonies than 
 in very many places at home. The people there 
 live on the outskirts of the Empire, and things 
 touch them more keenly than they do those 
 who live at the centre ; at least, so it seemed to 
 us. We repeat once more, because of its abiding 
 importance, that we were profoundly impressed with 
 the love and loyalty of all the Australasian Colonies 
 to dear Old England. We pray that nothing may 
 ever be done at home to shake or weaken this. 
 We are thinking of the future and of what this 
 great Empire must become. Each State in 
 Australasia is one part of the Empire, and it is of 
 infinite importance what they are and will be to us. 
 This makes us think of the old lines of Sir W. 
 Jones : 
 
 What constitutes a state ? 
 
 Not high-raised battlements or labour'd mound, 
 Thick wall or moated gate ; 
 
 Not cities proud with spires and turrets crown' d, 
 Not bays and broad-arm'd ports, 
 
 Where, laughing at the storm, rich navies ride ; 
 Not starred and spangled courts, 
 
 Where low-browed baseness wafts perfumed pride. 
 No ; men, high-minded men, 
 
 With powers as far above dull brutes endued, 
 In forest, brake, or den, 
 
 As beasts excel cold rocks and brambles rude,
 
 HOME, SWEET HOME ! 127 
 
 Men who their duties know, 
 But know their rights, and, knowing, dare maintain, 
 
 Prevent the long aimed blow, 
 And crush the tyrant while they rend the chain ; 
 
 These constitute a state. 
 
 There are thousands of such men in the Colonies, 
 and they are the sons and true friends of Great 
 Britain, brave and strong for the day of battle. 
 May the God of our fathers bless them, and cement 
 all our hearts together in a strong and true brother- 
 hood of loyalty and love ! 
 
 After all our wanderings we arrived at home, 
 sweet home ! safe and sound. Rest and change 
 had done wonders for our health ; we were rested 
 in body and mind ; shattered nerves were strung 
 up once more, while that miserable dyspepsia was 
 left in the breezes of the sea or on the crests of 
 the waves, we fondly hope never to return. We 
 felt young again and fit for the work that awaited 
 us amongst the toiling masses and the poor of 
 Shoreditch. 
 
 We had two more Receptions, one by our dear 
 children and their children the tenderest, most 
 loving, and best of all ; the other by our beloved 
 church and congregation at Shoreditch Tabernacle. 
 The whole thing was unique in the history of any 
 church ; it will never be forgotten by those who 
 took any part therein, for it crowned a long and 
 eventful absence of nine months, and filled our 
 hearts with joy and gratitude. We were once 
 more at home, in the midst of a people we have 
 loved and served for over thirty years. For the 
 rest of our days it will be our supreme joy to serve 
 them still in all that is good and true. When we 
 can serve no longer, and the last voyage must
 
 128 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTEALASIA. 
 
 be taken, we shall die in the fondly cherished hope 
 of meeting them and thousands of our Colonial 
 friends in the land where the sun never sets, where 
 man never weeps, because he never sins, and 
 where God's redeemed people abide in everlasting 
 peace.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 WHAT HAPPENED WHEN WE GOT HOME. 
 
 WE give the following reports just as they appeared 
 in two of the papers. Many other papers gave a 
 full account of the Reception, but we give these 
 from a religious and from a so-called secular paper. 
 The first is The Baptist Times, the second is The 
 Shoreditch Observer. 
 
 RETURN OF REV. WILLIAM CUFF. 
 
 RECEPTION AND WELCOME MEETING AT 
 SHOREDITCH TABERNACLE. 
 
 Shoreditch Tabernacle was en fete on Thursday, 
 and outdid itself in its effort to express its pleasure 
 at the safe return of its pastor and his wife. " Ab- 
 sence makes the heart grow fonder " has hardly 
 been true of either pastor or people in this case, 
 but at all events separation has served to make 
 both of them a little less chary of giving expres- 
 sion to the deep affection that binds them together. 
 There was no room for doubt in the mind of any 
 one present at the wonderful gathering on Thurs- 
 day night that the people of Shoreditch Tabernacle 
 love their minister, and are beyond measure de- 
 lighted to have him in their midst once more. All 
 
 129 9
 
 130 SUNNY MEMORIES or AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 British reserve was broken through, and the 
 enthusiasm was as generous as it was sponta- 
 neous. 
 
 The proceedings took the form of a Reception 
 in the schoolroom, which had been very beautifully 
 and effectively decorated with flowers and palms, 
 and a liberal display of bunting and streamers. 
 This was followed by a public meeting in the 
 chapel, which was very largely attended, the area 
 being crowded, and the galleries containing what 
 would have seemed a large congregation in most 
 places of worship. During the Reception I asked 
 two of the deacons whether the meeting would 
 be held in the chapel, and they shook their heads 
 doubtfully, and said it would depend on the 
 number of people who came. Their doubts were 
 soon set at rest. The schoolroom speedily became 
 so thronged that it was impossible to move about, 
 and the people were still flocking in. So we had 
 to adjourn to the Tabernacle. 
 
 Prior to the Reception I found my way to the 
 deacons' vestry, and had a brief chat with Mr. 
 G. Cartwright, the secretary of the Church and 
 Mr. Cuff's right-hand man. He told me that 
 during Mr. Cuff's absence the congregations had 
 been well maintained, and all the work of the 
 Church had gone on as usual. The services for 
 the last six or seven Sundays had been conducted 
 by Mr. Gange, whose ministrations had been 
 greatly enjoyed, and his labours, as well as those 
 of Dr. Macgregor and other friends, had been 
 owned and blessed of God. Mr. Cuff had un- 
 doubtedly benefited very greatly by his holiday. 
 It had been a real rest. What preaching he had 
 done, said one of the deacons, was thoroughly
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 131 
 
 characteristic of the man who has done so much 
 for village Nonconformity in England. He had 
 gone to weak and struggling causes in out-of-the- 
 way places in the Colonies to lend them a helping 
 hand. 
 
 At half -past six Mr. and Mrs. Cuff came into 
 the transformed schoolroom to greet their friends. 
 My thoughts went back to a day last July, when 
 Mr. Cuff told me that he had been ordered away 
 to avert a complete collapse, and I compared the 
 broken-down, overworked man of seven months 
 ago with the bronzed and cheery giant who stepped 
 forward now with such a genial smile to take up 
 the burden once more. His burly form was 
 instinct with energy ; his face, no longer haggard 
 and drawn, was tanned by sun and wind to the 
 picture of health, and the hearty grip of the hand 
 was magnetic with power and confidence. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Cuff took their seats in front of the plat- 
 form in a perfect bower of flowers and palms, and 
 the Reception began. Everybody was longing to 
 shake hands with them, but there was a moment's 
 hesitation. Englishmen are shy, even in Shore- 
 ditch, and the momentous question was, Who 
 should break the ice ? I happened to be standing 
 near the platform, and, in response to the urgent 
 request of the chairman to waste no time, two or 
 three of us stepped forward, and hence, by a happy 
 chance, the representative of The Baptist Times 
 and Freeman was one of the first to welcome Mr. 
 Cuff back to his own Church. After that all went 
 merry as a marriage bell, and for two hours Mr. 
 Cuff had an experience like that of an American 
 President on a reception day at the White House. 
 He shook hands with more than a thousand people,
 
 132 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 and as they do not give the fashionable, limp, 
 high hand-shake in Shoreditch, his fingers were 
 blistered before he had done. I snatched just a 
 minute's conversation with Mrs. Cuff, long enough 
 to ask her how she had enjoyed the tour. She 
 laughingly answered that her one anxiety had 
 been to see that her husband really did rest. 
 She had to keep a watchful eye on him 
 to prevent him from doing too much. On 
 board ship it was all right. He could not help 
 himself there, as there were no struggling 
 village churches on the Omrah ; but, she added 
 merrily, " they made him chairman of the Sports 
 Committee." 
 
 A large choir and a string band whiled away 
 the time of waiting in the chapel till Mr. and Mrs. 
 Cuff had " received " all their friends, and soon 
 after eight the deacons filed on to the platform, 
 followed by Mrs. Cuff and the pastor. Instantly 
 the great audience sprang to its feet, and a scene 
 of wild enthusiasm ensued and lasted for some 
 moments. The people cheered, and stamped, and 
 waved handkerchiefs and hymn-sheets, while Mr. 
 Cuff stood there, his strong face working with 
 emotion, and with the tears in his eyes. Mr. 
 Cartwright presided, and explained that the meet- 
 ing was only the home welcome ; the public welcome 
 would be held later on. Hence, with the exception 
 of Rev. J. H. Shakespeare, who had come as an 
 unbidden guest to represent the Baptist Union, 
 all the speakers were members of their own 
 Church. 
 
 Rev. J. H. Shakespeare said he expressed the 
 mind of the denomination in voicing their sincere 
 love and admiration of Mr. Cuff for his great work
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 133 
 
 in Shoreditch, for the help he had given to village 
 Nonconformity in England, and for the colossal 
 service he had rendered to the Baptist Union, 
 especially during his presidency. In the denomi- 
 nation Mr. Cuff stood as our greatest personal 
 force face to face with the mass of sin and in- 
 difference that appalled us by its vastness, and 
 he represented the most effective system of dealing 
 with the spiritual needs of the masses of the people. 
 He rejoiced to see Mr. Cuff thoroughly restored, 
 and prayed that this might be the beginning of 
 a new lease of life and service. He was glad, too, 
 that Mr. Cuff had returned in time to give 
 his countervailing witness against the spread 
 of ritualism such as was practised at St. 
 Michael's, Shoreditch, and in time to bear his 
 part in the sufferings we should have to endure 
 to make our protest effective against the new 
 Education Act. 
 
 After a very witty speech from the chairman, 
 a number of short addresses of welcome were 
 given by representatives of all the organisations 
 of the Church. The prettiest and most effective 
 was that from the Sunday-school. Two little 
 mites walked gravely onto the platform, and 
 presented a letter to Mr. Cuff and a beautiful 
 bouquet to Mrs. Cuff. Mr. Cuff lifted them onto 
 the desk, where they stood for a moment regard- 
 ing the scene with serious eyes and great com- 
 posure. As Mr. Cuff humorously remarked, the 
 little boy's connection with the school seemed 
 to date back to somewhere about the time 
 of Methuselah, as his great-grandfather had 
 held office in it long before the Tabernacle was 
 built.
 
 134 SUXNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 But the event of the evening was, of course, 
 the pastor's speech. When he rose the enthu- 
 siasm of the meeting broke out again, and it was 
 some minutes before Mr. Cuff could make himself 
 heard. His first utterance was one of profound 
 and heartfelt gratitude to God that found fit 
 expression in the closing verses of Psalm cxvi. 
 He passed on to speak briefly of their journey 
 of 40,000 miles, and of the goodness and mercy 
 that had followed them throughout its course. 
 And if God had watched over them in their travels, 
 He had not less surely watched over the Church. 
 He felt that the blessing that had guarded the 
 Church from every danger, and had kept them so 
 closely knit together in the bonds of love, was 
 an answer to the prayers that he had never ceased 
 to put up to God on their behalf. He was glad 
 to be in their midst once more, speaking in the 
 building that was to him the most sacred place 
 on earth. " Not half-dead, as we have been," he 
 cried, in tones that rang through the Tabernacle, 
 " but alive from head to foot, and ready to preach 
 the Gospel which has so often been the power of 
 God unto salvation within these walls." There 
 was no place like home, and there were no people 
 like his own people. And no words could express 
 his joy to find that they were not tired of him, 
 but were glad to have him back. If they had 
 received him coldly it would have broken his 
 heart and brought down his grey hairs with sorrow 
 to the grave. He stood where he had always 
 stood beneath the blood-stained Cross. He had 
 been to the New World, but he had come back 
 to preach the Old Gospel. He had nothing fresh 
 to offer them. There was no other power that
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 135 
 
 could have built up and maintained that Church 
 for thirty years of one man's life. Once more he 
 was on the altar. Every faculty, every gift of 
 body, soul, and spirit he dedicated afresh to God 
 and to his people. If in His mercy God spared 
 him for another ten years, he had no higher 
 ambition than to be their pastor, their friend, 
 and their teacher. To the very last breath 
 he would preach the old theme, with all the 
 force of conviction, and with unhesitating 
 dogmatism as to what he believed to be the 
 truth. 
 
 There were many lighter touches, and some 
 very charming and tender ones in Mr. Cuff's speech. 
 He convulsed the audience with laughter when he 
 said that he had breathed the fiery breath of the 
 desert in the Red Sea, and the fresh, cool breezes 
 of the Pacific and the bracing air of the mountains 
 in New Zealand, but there was no atmosphere 
 anywhere so sweet as that of the Hackney Road. 
 Wednesday was Mr. and Mrs. Cuff's thirty-sixth 
 wedding-day, and Mr. Cuff spoke in exquisitely 
 tender language of the happiness of his home 
 life and of all Mrs. Cuff had been to him. "We 
 were married on the First of April just to per- 
 petuate the fact that two fools loved one another, 
 and we are going on doing it, arn't we ? " he said, 
 turning to Mrs. Cuff, who was vainly remonstrating 
 between laughter and tears against this love- 
 making on the platform. 
 
 They give you good measure, pressed down 
 and running over, at Shoreditch Tabernacle, and 
 yet people are not satisfied. As I passed out, 
 close on eleven o'clock, I heard enthusiastic 
 Tabernaclers wishing the meeting had lasted two
 
 136 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 hours longer ! There is something invigorating in 
 the air of Hackney ! 
 
 A GREAT THANKSGIVING. 
 
 HEARTY WELCOME TO PASTOR AND MRS. CUFF. 
 A MEMORABLE MEETING. 
 
 We all have our golden days, and there have 
 been many such in the history of the Shoreditch 
 Tabernacle. But last Thursday was a diamond 
 day ; the Church, throbbing in every heart with 
 faith, hope and love, welcomed back its pastor 
 with a torrent of affection, and spread around his 
 worthy wife a garland of goodwill. The beautiful 
 Sunday-school, bright with sweet spring flowers, 
 and gay with patriotic colour, was the presence- 
 chamber ; in the centre of the throng sat the 
 hero of the hour, strong and ruddy from his 
 recent travels, and by his side stood his happy 
 wife. No king or queen could have been happier, 
 for the welcomes came as thick as blossoms 
 in spring time, and as warm as the glow of 
 the summer sun. A great company filled the 
 place, and a rapture of happiness o'erflowed from 
 heart to heart. 
 
 When the hall of welcome could no longer 
 contain the multitude, they passed into the 
 Tabernacle and wellnigh filled the great church. 
 The whole company stood upon their feet with a 
 shout of welcome as the pastor stepped into his 
 honoured place, and the air was filled with their
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 137 
 
 psalm of gratitude, "To God be the glory! great 
 things He hath done ! " 
 
 This note of thanksgiving was fervently echoed 
 by Mr. Frost, who prayed that, with health and 
 strength restored, Mr. Cuff may be a great blessing 
 to this neighbourhood. 
 
 By common consent the chair was occupied 
 by the pastor's chief armour-bearer, and when 
 Mr. Cartwright rose, with radiant face, at his 
 honoured post, a volley of greetings rang out in 
 heartfelt appreciation of a great work nobly done. 
 Happily, Rev. J. H. Shakespeare, secretary of 
 the Baptist Union, looked in just to speak a few 
 hearty words of welcome on behalf of the denomina- 
 tion, and the same chord vibrated pleasantly later 
 in the evening from the heart and tongue of another 
 stalwart, Rev. Henry Varley. Rising amidst another 
 kindly greeting, the Chairman said : Dear Pastor 
 and Mrs. Cuff : We welcome you back into our 
 midst with very great joy and thanksgiving. 
 Though we are a day late, we hope it is not too late 
 to wish you many happy returns of your wedding 
 day. We are delighted to see you really strong 
 and well once again, and we rejoice in the fact 
 that the visit to the Colonies has really been a 
 rest, and that you have benefited so much from 
 it. We congratulate our brethren of the Colonies 
 on their judgment and wisdom in knowing a good 
 man when they saw one. (Cheers.) We extend 
 to them loving thanks for their kind treatment of 
 you, from the Prime Minister to every one who 
 did the least thing to make your visit what it has 
 been, a time of rest and blessing to you. We would 
 specially thank the Baptist Union of Australia 
 for the hearty and loving reception they gave
 
 138 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 you, and we trust that the good received was not 
 all on our side, but that the grip of the hand, the 
 prayer of the heart, and the coming into contact 
 with such a real type of British John Bull did them 
 much good also. You will be glad to know, too, 
 dear pastor, that in your absence the great Shepherd 
 of the Church has been good to us as a Church 
 and people, and has kept us together in peace and 
 unity. As officers of the Church we are glad to 
 hand back the responsibility of the service and 
 work of the Church to your hands ; but we want to 
 testify that our God has been good to us (cheers) 
 that in the ministry He has led the flock into green 
 pastures and beside the still waters ; and, blessed 
 be His name, He has not left us without proof that 
 the Word preached has been blessed to the salvation 
 of some precious souls. And He has also silenced 
 the croakers. Some there were who said, " Ah ! 
 now we shall see the congregations diminish, the 
 Church scattered, the funds all go wrong." But 
 we have to bear our testimony to the facts ; that 
 from the highest work to the lowest if there be 
 any high or low in God's work everything has 
 gone well. Our congregations have kept up, our 
 finances also, our week-night services have increased, 
 our prayer-meetings have been blessed times of 
 power, and, as a Church and people, we were 
 never in a better spirit to go on with the work of 
 the Lord, and to extend the work of the Church. 
 We take this, dear pastor, as a proof of the sterling 
 character of the work you have done here for the 
 past thirty years, and we trust you will get great 
 encouragement to go forward as you see your work 
 has not been in vain in the Lord. Our wish and 
 prayer for you is that you may be kept well and
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 139 
 
 strong, and that God may bless you in your work 
 here for many years to come. (Cheers.) 
 
 In all the varied tones of loyalty and affection 
 the chairman's greeting was echoed again and 
 again by Mr. G. T. Dearberg, for the deacons ; 
 Mr. Woolman, for the elders ; Mr. Crisp, as senior 
 church member ; and Mr. Ferriman, jun., for the 
 choir. Then Miss Thompson sang, 
 
 God bless our pastor ! May he be 
 
 With heavenly wisdom crowned, 
 The light, the gladness of Thy Word 
 
 Within his heart abound. 
 
 The most touching incident of the evening was 
 the presentation of the address by two pretty 
 toddlers from the Sunday-schools. The little 
 maiden received a kiss as she handed to Mrs. Cuff 
 a garland of lovely flowers, and her companion 
 handed a letter to the chairman, who gladly pro- 
 ceeded to read the historic document within ; 
 
 DEAR PASTOR AND MRS. CUFF, We have come as represen- 
 tatives of the teachers and scholars in the Sunday-school, to 
 say how very pleased we all are to welcome you home again, 
 safe and well, after being away all this while, and travelling 
 such a long, long way. We have prayed for you continually, 
 and we all thank God for His goodness in preserving you and 
 Mrs. Cuff in your " going out and coming in," and sending His 
 guardian angels to watch over you by night and day, on sea 
 and land, and trust that the rest from duty, change of thought, 
 change of scene, combined with change of air, have strengthened 
 you in body and mind. We have missed you, and trust that 
 at an early date you will come and see us in the school. 
 
 They have chosen us because they thought we were almost 
 born in the school. The mother of my little friend who asks 
 Mrs. Cuff to accept the basket of flowers was a scholar, and 
 then a teacher ; and when she was married she did what the 
 officers wish every lady teacher would do induced her husband 
 to come and take a class. Her father is still a teacher. As to
 
 140 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 myself, my great-grandfather was superintendent of this school 
 before you came to London ; my grandfather is secretary now, 
 and has been for over forty years ; my father, when he was a 
 little boy like me, was in the school, and is still in the young 
 men's class ; and I am in Mrs. Elliston's class. We pray God 
 to bless you and your family, and hail the opportunity on your 
 safe return of giving you the hearty congratulations of all 
 connected with Shoreditch Tabernacle Sunday-school. 
 
 PERCY JAMES CBISP. 
 WINNIE LUFF. 
 
 Then came the mission greetings by Mr. Hayes 
 and Mr. Garnham, Mr. Brooks for the congregation, 
 Mr. McNicol for the young people, and Mr. J> 
 Dearberg for the family ; and the choir sang. 
 " Hallelujah ! the Lord God omnipotent reigneth." 
 
 The pastor was deeply moved by the warmth 
 and affection of the greetings. With all the 
 reverence he could command he thanked God that 
 he was permitted once again to open his mouth 
 beneath the roof of that house, which was dearer 
 to him than life. As he lay in the cabin of the 
 good ship, over which angels watched and of which 
 God took care, he pleaded that God would remember 
 them in their little homes, in their sorrows and 
 labour in that great city. Their prayers had been 
 answered, and here he was again, alive from head 
 to foot. He went to a new world, but he came 
 back to preach the old Gospel. He had seen many 
 things, but " there's no place like home," and there 
 were no people like the poor and the toilers of that 
 Church, in whose souls there lived a faith that hell 
 could not destroy, and all the machinery of Popery 
 could not touch. He rejoiced with joy unspeakable 
 to find them all united and happy, and ready to 
 welcome him back to preach once more the
 
 WHEN WE GOT HOME. 141 
 
 unchangeable Gospel. He thanked them very 
 much for their magnificent reception ; it was just 
 like them. (Cheers.) 
 
 Then followed the telegraphic greeting of the 
 denomination : " Welcome home. London needs 
 you. God speed your plough." 
 
 But what touched the pastor still more was 
 a neighbourly message of sincere congratulation 
 from Rev. H. S. Field, vicar of St. Paul's, Gossett 
 Street, Bethnal Green. 
 
 Messrs. Barnes and Bradridge thanked all who 
 made the preparations, and Rev. Dr. Malcolm 
 Macgregor pronounced the Benediction.
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOREDITCH. 
 
 BY G. HOLDEN PIKE. 
 
 READERS who have gone through the foregoing 
 narrative are now invited to read what follows if 
 from no other motive, then let it be from a severe 
 sense of duty. My good friend Mr. Cuff has regaled 
 them with facts and pictures concerning a land of 
 sunshine and of wonders beneath the Southern 
 Cross ; my more prosaic tale has to do with a 
 densely-populated quarter of East London, where 
 the ceaseless round of arduous daily toil has little 
 or nothing to relieve its dull round of monotony. 
 Still, readers in the distance must not favour the 
 idea that Shoreditch is a congeries of slums reeking 
 with moral and physical miasma, or that it is an 
 area which prudent people avoid after dark. In 
 point of fact, Shoreditch is one of the most pro- 
 gressive parishes to be met with in the country, 
 and Lord Rosebery would give it a first place as 
 regards its enterprise. The slums have disap- 
 peared as if by magic, their sites being occupied 
 with fine buildings for the better housing of the 
 people ; while the great elementary schools are 
 Supplemented by baths and public libraries. 
 Indeed, the outlook is such that if Mr. Worldly- 
 Wiseman could have served on its District Council 
 he would have undoubtedly pronounced the parish 
 to be a model community. 
 
 142
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOREDITCH. 143 
 
 But at the same time there are drawbacks, and 
 it is desirable that their characteristics should be 
 known, not only by friends at home, but also by 
 sympathetic people throughout the Australasian 
 Colonies, who may be prompted to aid the work 
 of what is really one of the largest home mission 
 stations in the British metropolis. During a 
 generation or more, well-to-do inhabitants have 
 shown a tendency to migrate into more pleasant 
 suburbs. The atmosphere is charged with smoke ; 
 public-houses attract far too large a proportion of 
 the earnings of the people ; the aspect of the streets 
 inspires the idea that the place is overcrowded, 
 in common with its neighbours, Bethnal Green 
 and Spitalfields. In our conventional way of 
 talking, we do not associate Shoreditch with sun- 
 shine and restfulness. On one occasion, during 
 a visit to the Shoreditch Tabernacle, my late 
 chief, C. H. Spurgeon, referred to a tradition that 
 the sun had once shone there. The sight of the 
 throngs in the streets seemed to have a depressing 
 effect upon him, and in his humorous way he may 
 sometimes have exaggerated his impressions. Per- 
 haps the heaviest drawback and the greatest 
 discouragement to a pastor and to those who 
 work with him is the general indifference which 
 seems to have taken possession of so large a pro- 
 portion of the population. There is much poverty 
 around the Shoreditch Tabernacle, and indifference 
 readily takes possession of those who have to 
 maintain an unequal contest in the battle of life. 
 
 For convenience' sake we speak of Mr. Cuff's 
 sphere being in Shoreditch, but, in reality, Bethnal 
 Green and Hackney have to be taken into the 
 reckoning. When the great Tabernacle was first
 
 144 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 put up the unreclaimed slums of Bethnal Green came 
 up to the rear of the chapel. Outwardly, there 
 has been great reformation ; striking transformation 
 scenes have taken place ; but, much as such 
 changes for the better are to be desired, they 
 cannot ensure moral and spiritual change. 
 
 There may still be a large section of the public, 
 both at home and in the Colonies, who are not 
 fully acquainted with the design and work of the 
 Pastors' College founded by the late C. H. Spurgeon. 
 It was decided from the first that capacity for 
 preaching, joined to earnest piety, should be the 
 chief qualification for those who sought admission. 
 In this respect the institution differed from other 
 colleges which required that their candidates should 
 be well-grounded in learning, which, when found, 
 was always valued by the late C. H. Spurgeon, 
 He set a high value on literary attainments, 
 but held that the want of them should not prove 
 a barrier when other qualifications existed. He 
 wished to be in no danger of excluding merit, when 
 the main object was to attract it. 
 
 William Cuff is a native of Hasfield, seven miles 
 from Gloucester, and in youth he benefited by 
 good Christian teaching at home, his mother being 
 schoolmistress of the village. As regarded the 
 young adventurer, however, he preferred boating 
 on the Severn, and rambling about the meadows 
 through which the fair river flowed, to the apparatus 
 of the school. At the same time, the impressions 
 received in youth were lasting. Thus, the visit to 
 Hasfield of a cousin, who was a city missionary 
 in London, proved of lasting benefit ; and in this 
 respect was similar to the visit of Richard Knill 
 to Stambourne during the childhood of C. H.
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOKEDITCH. 145 
 
 Spurgeon. As a boy, young Cuff attended the 
 ministry of James Smith, whose " innumerable 
 little books," as one calls them, may even still 
 have attraction for old-fashioned readers. In his 
 twentieth year, Mr. Cuff was baptised, and soon 
 after he gathered a class of rough lads, and thus 
 set his hand to that Christian work which he has 
 ever since continued with characteristic enthusiasm. 
 It was while giving attention to this class that, 
 quite contrary to his design at the time, he became 
 a preacher. It is again a curious coincidence that 
 he gave his first sermon at a cottage service under 
 circumstances very similar to those under which 
 C. H. Spurgeon preached his maiden discourse 
 at Teversham. Mr. Cuff accompanied the friend 
 who was supposed to be the preacher to the service ; 
 and when the reading and prayer were over, the 
 announcement was quietly made that Mr. Cuff 
 would preach ! For the moment the youth was 
 in a dilemma ; but he rose to the occasion without 
 hesitation, and repeated the Bible lesson he had 
 given to his class of boys in the morning. From 
 that time preaching engagements multiplied, and, 
 whether in buildings or in the open air, large 
 audiences were attracted. 
 
 While thus engaged in Christian work Mr. Cuff 
 still prospered in business ; he married, and had 
 a comfortable home ; but seeing that his preaching 
 was so successful, many friends advised that he 
 should devote his whole time and energy to the 
 work. This was the outlook when C. H. Spurgeon 
 paid his first visit to Cheltenham, where Mr. Cuff 
 was then living ; and after a conference with the 
 great preacher, he arranged to enter the Pastors' 
 College. One part of the discipline of education 
 
 10
 
 146 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 in that institution, counted no less profitable than 
 enjoyable, was the privilege of being able to attend 
 the Sunday services at the Metropolitan Tabernacle 
 when Spurgeon was at the height of his prestige 
 and influence, during the golden period of his 
 wonderful life. This benefit Mr. Cuff never enjoyed, 
 however ; he had to supply some pulpit, near or far 
 away, on every Sunday of his college course. 
 
 On leaving the Pastors' College, Mr. Cuff settled 
 in the picturesque village of Ridgmount, in Bedford- 
 shire, a place which was associated with John 
 Bunyan, and is near to Woburn Abbey, the seat 
 of the Russell family. The village had a religious 
 history dating from Puritan times. The congre- 
 gation now grew, however, so that an enlargement 
 of the chapel had to be undertaken. 
 
 The stay at Ridgmount was short ; for in 1867, 
 acting on the advice of C. H. Spurgeon, Mr. Cuff 
 became co-pastor with Rev. Cornelius Elven 
 of Bury St. Edmund's. There some hard service 
 was done, in the town and in surrounding villages, 
 at village stations and in the open air. Still, a 
 co-pastorate was not quite to Mr. Cuff's taste ; 
 he resigned, and settled at Acton, whence, six 
 months later, he removed to Providence Chapel, 
 on the site of which the Shoreditch Tabernacle 
 now stands. The pastoral work of the chapel, 
 which had been put up in the thirties of the nine- 
 teenth century, had been carried on in an unexcep- 
 tionably respectable manner. The occupants of the 
 pulpit had been very particular in regard to their 
 doctrine ; but aught like aggressive work among 
 the mass of the poor and of the working classes, 
 whose homes were in crowded streets all around, 
 never seemed to occur to them. It was not that
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOREDITCH. 147 
 
 they despised the poor, for once a month, at the 
 Communion, a collection for such was punctiliously 
 made ; but the teeming population outside, 
 which did not come either to Gospel services or 
 Sunday-school, was to them inaccessible. Mr. 
 Cuff was of a different mind, however ; for his 
 model evangelist was C. H. Spurgeon, who had 
 broken down the artificial barriers which dignified 
 preachers of the gold-headed cane era, as Spurgeon 
 called it, had set up to keep apart the very reverend 
 ministers and the very unreverend common people. 
 The height of the ambition of Mr. Cuff was to 
 bring into the Church the working classes and their 
 families ; he refused to believe a word about their 
 being out of reach or out of hearing. In order 
 to give a realistic sketch of what the outlook was 
 like in that memorable eighth decade of the nine- 
 teenth century, when Mr. Cuff entered upon what 
 may be called the work of his life, I will venture 
 to give an extract from a sketch I wrote at the 
 time : 
 
 " Many of the abuses and nuisances of fifty 
 years ago have been swept away, and by the end 
 of the century the good fruits of an active Chris- 
 tianity and of School Boards will be still more 
 manifest. At the same time, while taking things 
 as they are, an optimist would not be likely to 
 have his faith stimulated by spending certain 
 hours of the Christian Sabbath in the unsalubrious 
 atmosphere of Shoreditch and the outlying dis- 
 trict. There are churches, and the State provides 
 that the tolling bell, the call to prayer, shall not 
 be omitted ; but even in the thick centre of a 
 crowded population the imposing ecclesiastical 
 paraphernalia of priests, clerks, beadles, and bells,
 
 148 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 will not compel the people to fill the pews. The 
 majority of the parishioners are not church- or 
 chapel-goers, and if Sunday relieves them from 
 toil, it also brings them those relaxations which 
 are characteristic of their interesting territory. 
 During the morning hours, streams of people, 
 representing all grades of the industrial and indi- 
 gent classes, throng the pathway, their Sabbath- 
 day pursuits being severally understood by a 
 knowing observer of East London manners and 
 customs. There are troops of boys, hobbledehoy 
 caricatures of manhood, who, with their dirty 
 pipes, stout sticks, fishing-nets, and foul slang, 
 must breathe the country air and sport in the 
 forest or marshes until nightfall. Hard by there 
 is a bird market, which attracts a multitude of 
 traffickers as well as the lovers of what is in some 
 respects a cruel pastime. But the main current 
 slowly advances towards the City, the exciting 
 riot of Rag Fair having for many an irresistible 
 charm, who, after the physical exhaustion of the 
 week, are content to be entertained and cheated 
 by profligate Jews. Though all this is sufficiently 
 depressing, the aspect of affairs was once far 
 darker, and the reformers are at work. 
 
 " In this needy neighbourhood the Baptists 
 founded a church about half a century ago, and 
 the meeting-house has been known by the pleasant 
 name of Providence Chapel. Some of the fore- 
 most men of the last age were interested in its 
 prosperity, and from the first the church has 
 pursued an honourable course, having been more 
 or less actively progressive. Not, however, until 
 recent years has the church enlarged its borders 
 in an extraordinary manner, Other pastors have
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOREDITCH. 149 
 
 been successful there, and done a good work in 
 their time, but the modern tendency for the 
 more prosperous and educated inhabitants to 
 migrate from their places of business to the 
 suburbs has greatly changed this neighbourhood, 
 as it has that of other chapels such as Old Prescot 
 Street (now Commercial Street) Chapel and many 
 others in Central London ; and to gather and hold a 
 large congregation in the altered conditions, the 
 preacher must have special characteristics in the 
 way of voice, readiness of speech, manifest earnest- 
 ness of purpose, and the power to present the 
 elements of truth in a bold, forceful, attractive 
 manner. That Mr. Cuff, of Shoreditch, is the 
 right man in the right place, no one who has care- 
 fully watched his labours there can have any 
 doubt. On his accession to the pastorate, the 
 chapel, attendance at which had wofully declined, 
 immediately filled ; soon it overflowed, and even- 
 tually the Town Hall of Shoreditch was hired for 
 the accommodation of the 2,000 hearers who were 
 drawn to the evening service. Still the area is too 
 strait for the ever-growing crowd, so that tickets 
 are now issued to the regular seat-holders in accord- 
 ance with the plan at the Metropolitan Tabernacle. 
 This was the state of affairs when we passed the 
 ticket-barrier on Sunday evening last (February 
 11, 1877) to see for ourselves the work in progress." 
 The above passage, written over a quarter of a 
 century ago, represents the outlook of the situation 
 as I found it at the time. At the present time the 
 work to be done is more urgently necessary than 
 ever ; but it is undoubtedly more difficult. Some 
 of the characteristics of a crowded East-end 
 quarter are not quite what they were in the seven-
 
 150 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 ties. In the seventies, the beggarly system of 
 Secularism, which mars this world because it 
 ignores the next, was more rampant ; and men 
 atheists, as well as brazen-faced women at " Halls 
 of Science," were more in evidence. Infidel 
 systems die to some extent with their authors ; 
 one establishment after another for the sale of the 
 literature of unbelief has been closed. At the 
 time in question, trashy serials of the Penny Dreadful 
 order may has been more immoral ; to-day we 
 are flooded with worthless periodicals, the chief 
 characteristic of which is that they are altogether 
 inane, and thus, indirectly, pernicious, while many 
 of the novels in volume form are of a decided 
 immoral tendency. Probably it is a mistake to 
 suppose that infidelity, in the conventional sense, 
 is very widely prevalent among working men. A 
 small demonstrative minority may succeed in 
 making a considerable noise ; but with the main 
 part it is simply indifference to all higher things 
 than earning a livelihood. These are the kind of 
 people who are being brought into the Church by 
 means of a great and comprehensive home mission 
 work, such as we have at the Shoreditch Tabernacle 
 and its several stations in a crowded district. The 
 work being earnestly carried on, this is a fruitful 
 field, yielding its thirty or a hundred fold. 
 
 It will now be necessary to explain what is 
 being done in this great sphere of service with its 
 teeming population, whose spiritual need calls 
 for the sympathy of friends both in the home 
 country and in that greater, brighter Britain 
 of the Antipodes, where the Pastor has so many old 
 friends, and where he has made a host of new ones. 
 
 Mr. Cuff has now laboured in Shoreditch for
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOREDITCH. 151 
 
 over thirty years, and during that period many 
 changes have taken place, some of which have 
 been for the better, while some have been for the 
 worse. Those who turn their eyes to the vast 
 piles, the rooms of which are let out to separate 
 families as model dwellings, and which have risen 
 on the sites of the shanties of the old-time slums, 
 will say that working people are better housed. 
 As one walks hither and thither in some of the 
 back streets, where we believe that the first martyr 
 of the London City Mission met his death, it seems 
 to be almost literally true that the slums of other 
 days have taken to themselves wings to fly away. 
 In all directions the sanitary conditions have im- 
 proved, so that infectious diseases do not make 
 such havoc as in former times. But, as is well 
 known, such social reformation does not change 
 the people's hearts. Poverty, drinking, and that 
 stolid indifference to religion which is the hardest 
 thing to cope with and overcome, all alike remain 
 as before. 
 
 Mr. Cuff has watched all of these movements 
 political, educational, social, and religious with 
 deepest concern. In Shoreditch there are two 
 large free libraries and fine baths, as well as well- 
 equipped public laundries, so that when Lord 
 Rosebery opened the baths he spoke of Shoreditch 
 as being " the model parish of the metropolis." 
 Then, as Mr. Cuff would further tell us, he has 
 seen every sort of extreme religious service tried : 
 " Lectures instead of sermons ; music, pictures, 
 magic-lanterns and entertainments instead of 
 prayer-meetings. They are all a failure and played 
 out. People swelter on in sin, suffering, and utter 
 indifference."
 
 152 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 But when we come to ask, Is there nothing that 
 touches them, moves them, blesses them ? we 
 have no equivocal answer. Mr. Cuff shows that 
 there is something which is able to reach them for 
 good. " Oh, yes, thank God," he lately told an 
 assembly at Hampstead which assists his work. 
 " And that is the Gospel. That is still the power 
 of God unto salvation. All my life proves this," 
 he added. " I have more faith in it now than 
 ever. Proofs come every week. I could give 
 cases of conversion which are hardly believable." 
 
 A sample case was that of a doorkeeper at a 
 low music-hall, who was converted through his 
 father-in-law bringing him to the Tabernacle. 
 The convert afterwards became a worker ; Mr. 
 Cuff baptized both him and his wife, and the whole 
 family became converted. Numbers of young 
 men are brought into the fold in a similar way. 
 The Tabernacle has many mission halls, and in 
 every one the Gospel continues to assert its power. 
 " We try nothing else," says the pastor ; " we 
 have no faith in anything else." 
 
 This seems to be a striking thing to say when 
 pastoral perplexities have so greatly increased 
 through the whole of the well-to-do classes having 
 moved out into the suburbs, leaving behind them 
 the workpeople and the very poor. There are 
 thousands upon thousands of people who work in 
 the City and live in Shoreditch and Bethnal Green ; 
 and the entire area, in the midst of which the 
 Tabernacle stands as a Gospel lighthouse, seems 
 to become more overcrowded than ever. As Mr. 
 Cuff lately told a number of his friends, "It is 
 one of the sights of London to see thousands troop 
 past the Tabernacle to the City in the morning,
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHORBDITCH. 153 
 
 to return at night. I yearn over them as 
 they jostle me in the street." 
 
 As regards the work which is actually being 
 done, we may say that the congregation has greatly 
 revived since Mr. Cuff's return from his long Aus- 
 tralasian tour. During his illness for four years? 
 as well as in the nine months of his absence, there 
 was a falling off. Since the pastor's return in 
 the spring of last year (1903) he has not been 
 absent ; he has been hard at work, and won- 
 derful, as he tells us, has been the blessing. The 
 attendance at the prayer-meetings has trebled. 
 The home Sunday-school is full ; there are large 
 schools at several of the mission stations, while 
 at each of these, as well as at the Tabernacle, there 
 are flourishing Bible-classes, Temperance societies, 
 Bands of Hope, Dorcas societies, and funds to 
 help or to encourage thrift among the poor. Then 
 there are, of course, the regular preaching services, 
 so that in order to have all of these various agencies 
 fully equipped, about three hundred members 
 of the Church are necessarily absent from the 
 Tabernacle service on each successive Sunday 
 night. 
 
 During the last year or two extraordinary special 
 efforts have been made to reach that large and 
 utterly neglected class of young persons who still 
 abound in London, and who represent the very 
 class for whom ragged-schools were started sixty 
 years ago. The Shoreditch Tabernacle is not in 
 any wise behind as regards this new effort ; there 
 is a meeting for their benefit every Tuesday, and on 
 the first occasion ninety-two were present. Those 
 who volunteer to teach and civilise them are work- 
 ing men. When the pastor himself addressed 
 
 11
 
 154 SUNNY MEMORIES OF AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 them, he thought that he was confronted by the 
 roughest crew he had ever met. At first they 
 showed a tendency to be rude and vulgar, but 
 after a time they became quiet ; they showed 
 themselves to be moved as they listened to what 
 was said to them about the love of God, and felt 
 that there was a desire to do them good. This 
 endeavour has been eminently successful. 
 
 But Mr. Cuff and his helpers consider that their 
 oldest mission is their best effort the House-to- 
 House Visiting Society. No less than eight hundred 
 families are visited every Sunday. At each house 
 a copy of the week's issue of the Religious Tract 
 Society's Friendly Greetings is left, this being 
 changed for a new one on the Sunday following. 
 The people eagerly receive this attractive reading, 
 illustrated with fine pictures. Twenty thousand 
 copies are needed yearly ; and such an outlay 
 and distribution seems to be the most ready way 
 of directly introducing the Gospel into homes 
 which might otherwise remain ignorant about the 
 good news or glad tidings. While all this is being 
 done, there are between two and three thousand 
 children in the various Sunday-schools every 
 Sunday. Hence, the Shoreditch Tabernacle really 
 represents a great working mission church, 
 which is continuously doing an extensive and 
 comprehensive work in the midst of a very crowded 
 sphere. Such mission service not only merits, 
 but in a sense seems to demand the aid of friends 
 outside, of richer churches both at home and in 
 far-away Colonies where those have prospered 
 who have grateful memories of the Old Country. 
 
 Just at this present time, through circumstances 
 over which pastor and people have no control,
 
 THE HOLY WAR IN SHOEEDITCH. 155 
 
 there has come a crisis which will have to be dealt 
 with in an earnest and determined manner. Owing 
 to the wear and tear of about a quarter of a cen- 
 tury, which in the case of such a building in such 
 a place is inevitable, the Tabernacle urgently 
 needs to be thoroughly renovated both within and 
 without. An expert in such matters, who has 
 made a careful examination, is of opinion that 
 the work must not be delayed, but should be put 
 in hand at once. Water comes through the roof 
 and drops on the people during rain; the brick- 
 work of the walls needs to be pointed ; while the 
 interior requires to be thoroughly cleaned or reno- 
 vated. As the expense of doing what is needed 
 will not cost less than 2,000, the matter really 
 becomes a serious crisis to a congregation which is 
 largely made up of working people. " I am in 
 distress about it, and know not what we shall do," 
 said the pastor to a company of his friends, after 
 he had heard the particulars. " A debt will cripple 
 us again just when our best work was never 
 better." 
 
 To cope with such a difficulty is indeed one 
 of those pastoral perplexities in a poor or home 
 mission sphere which, in a time of commercial 
 depression, might even inspire despair. Accord- 
 ing to his own confession, Mr. Cuff is profoundly 
 concerned not to do anything disquieting or to 
 frighten people away. In a way which proves how 
 the Gospel can raise working people to heights 
 of self-denial such as they would not otherwise 
 have reached, hundreds of men attending Mr. 
 Cuff's ministry have pledged themselves to do 
 what is possible. At a memorable church meeting 
 at which the matter of repairs and renovation came
 
 156 SUNNY MEMORIES or AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 up for discussion, a postman, speaking as a member 
 of the church, suggested what might be done : A 
 few could give 5 each ; the majority could sub- 
 scribe 1 each ; some might be able only to offer 
 10s. ; but the average would be 1 for each man 
 of the congregation, and as there were nine hun- 
 dred of them, church members, that would mean 
 a sum of 900. 
 
 I hope that I have now said enough to show to 
 the friends of Mr. Cuff in the world's two hemi- 
 spheres what is meant by the Holy War in Shore- 
 ditch. It is nothing less than a great home mission 
 work, which, in the nature of things, cannot be 
 carried on apart from outside aid ; and it is a 
 service to which the English-speaking race, 
 both at home and abroad, might well extend their 
 aid, their sympathy, and their prayers. To-day 
 is ours, to whom to-morrow will belong is un- 
 certain ; opportunities come, but they are quickly 
 passing, and the night cometh when no man can 
 work. 
 
 W. Speaiyht < Sont, Printer!, fetter Lant, London.
 
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 2
 
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 The Messages of the Bible. Edited by FRANK KNIGHT 
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 I. THE MESSAGES OF THE EARLIER PROPHETS. 
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 IV. THE MESSAGES OF THE PROPHETICAL AND PRIESTLY 
 
 HISTORIANS. 
 
 IX. THE MESSAGES OF JESUS ACCORDING TO THE SYNOPTISTS. 
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 Volumes 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 will appear at intervals. 
 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 11 
 
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 12 JAMES CLARKE AND CO.'S 
 
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 Burning Questions. By WASHINGTON GLADDEN. Fourth 
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 East Anglian Daily Times. 
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 The Christ that is To Be: A Latter-Day Romance. By J. 
 
 COMPTON BICKETT, M.P. New Edition. Demy 8vo, cloth, 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 13 
 
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 His Rustic Wife. By MBS. HAYCRAFT, Author of "A Lady's 
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 Loveliness. By ELIZABETH STUART PHELPS. Square 12mo, 
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 Nineteen Hundred? A Forecast and a Story. By 
 
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 Industrial Explorings in and around London. ByR. ANDOM, 
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 14 
 
 JAMES CLARKE AND CO.'S 
 
 3/6. 
 
 EMMA JANE WORBOISE'S NOVELS. 
 
 Crown 8vo, uniformly bound in cloth, 3s. 6d. each. 
 
 Thornycroft Hall. 
 Millicent Kendrick. 
 St. Beetha's. 
 Violet Vaughan. 
 Margaret Torrington. 
 The Fortunes of Cyril 
 
 Denham. 
 
 Singlehurst Manor. 
 Overdale. 
 Grey and Gold. 
 Mr. Montmorency's Money. 
 Nobly Born. 
 Chrystabel. 
 Canonbury Holt. 
 Husbands and Wives. 
 The House of Bondage. 
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 Father Fabian. 
 Oliver Westwood. 
 Lady Clarissa. 
 
 Grey House at Endlestone. 
 
 Robert Wreford's Daughter 
 
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 Joan Carisbroke. 
 
 A Woman's Patience. 
 
 The Story of Penelope. 
 
 Sissie. 
 
 The Abbey Mill. 
 
 Warleigh's Trust. 
 
 Esther Wynne. 
 
 Fortune's Favourite. 
 
 His Next of Kin. 
 
 Campion Court. 
 
 Evelyn's Story. 
 
 Lottie Lonsdale. 
 
 Sir Julian's Wife. 
 
 The Lillingstones. 
 
 The Wife's Trials. 
 
 For other books by this Author see page 15. 
 
 AMELIA E. BARR'S NOVELS. 
 
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 The Beads of Tasmar. 
 
 A Sister to Esau. 
 
 She Loved a Sailor. 
 
 The Last of the MacAlIisters. 
 
 Woven of Love and Glory. 
 
 Feet of Clay. 
 
 The Household of McNeil. 
 
 A Border Shepherdess. 
 
 Paul and Christina. 
 
 The Squire of Sandal Side. 
 
 The Bow of Orange Ribbon 
 
 Between Two Loves. 
 
 A Daughter of Fife. 
 
 Jan Vedder's Wife (Also is. 6d.) 
 
 For other books by this Author see page 4.
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 15 
 
 A Method of Prayer. By MADAME GTTYON. A Revised 
 Translation with Notes. Edited by DTJGALD MACFADYEN, M.A. 
 
 " The pages will have a message for all prayerful readers ; and as often 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 17 
 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 19 
 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 25 
 
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 4
 
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 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 
 
 27 
 
 Index of Titles. 
 
 Abbey Mill, The 
 
 Adrift on the Black Wild Tide 
 
 America in the East ..... 
 
 Amy Wilton ...... 
 
 Ancient Musical Instruments 
 
 Angels of God, The 
 
 Apostles, The Messages of the 
 
 Art of Living Alone, The .... 
 
 Atonement in Modern Thought, The 
 
 Aunt Agatha Ann ..... 
 
 Awe of the New Century, The 
 
 Baptist Handbook, The .... 
 
 Barbone Parliament, The .... 
 
 Barrow, Henry, Separatist .... 
 
 Beads of Tasmar, The ..... 
 
 Between Two Loves ..... 
 
 Bible Definition of Religion, The . 
 
 Bible Story, The : Retold for Young People . 
 
 Bible, The : For Home and School 
 
 Bishop and the Caterpillar, The . 
 
 Border Shepherdess, A .... 
 
 Bow of Orange Ribbon, The 
 
 Brudenells of Brude, The .... 
 
 Burning Questions ..... 
 
 Bye-Path Meadow ..... 
 
 Campion Court ...... 
 
 Canonbury Holt ...... 
 
 Cartoons of St. Mark ..... 
 
 Changing Creeds and Social Struggles 
 Character through Inspiration 
 
 Children's Pace, The 
 
 Christ of the Heart, The .... 
 
 Christ that is To Be, The 
 
 Christian Life, The ..... 
 
 Christian World, The 
 
 Christian World Pulpit, The 
 Christianity and Social Problems . 
 Christianity in Common Speech . 
 Chrystabel ....... 
 
 Church and the Kingdom, The 
 
 Cinderella ....... 
 
 Conquered World, The .... 
 
 Daughter of Fife, A ... 
 
 Divine Satisfaction, The .... 
 
 Dutch in the Medway, The... 
 
 Early Pupils of the Spirit, and What of Samuel 
 
 Earlier Prophets, The Messages of the 
 
 Earliest Christian Hymn, The 
 
 Emilia's Inheritance ..... 
 
 Episcopacy ......
 
 28 JAMES CLARKE AND CO.'S 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Epistle to the Galatians, The . . . . . .16 
 
 Esther Wynne ......... 14 
 
 Evelyn's Story ......... 14 
 
 Ezekiel, The Book of 2 
 
 Faith for To-day, A .... ... 5 
 
 Faith the Beginning, Self -Surrender the Fulfilment, of the 
 
 Spiritual Life ........ 20 
 
 Family Prayers for Morning Use . . . . . .12 
 
 Father Fabian ......... 14 
 
 Feet of Clay 14 
 
 Flower-o'-the-Corn ........ 4 
 
 Fortune's Favourite . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Fortunes of Cyril Denham, The . . . . . .14 
 
 Friend Olivia ......... 4 
 
 From Philistia . . . . . . . . .11 
 
 Gain or Loss ?. . . . . . . . .16 
 
 Gloria Patri : Talks about the Trinity . . . . .12 
 
 God's Greater Britain . . . . . . . .12 
 
 Grey and Gold 14 
 
 Grey House at Endlestone . . . . . . .14 
 
 Growing Revelation, The ....... 8 
 
 Haromi : A New Zealand Story ...... 4 
 
 Health and Home Nursing ....... 22 
 
 Heartsease in the Family . . . . . . .15 
 
 Heirs of Errington, The 14 
 
 Helping Hand to Mothers ....... 25 
 
 Helps to Health and Beauty ...... 22 
 
 Higher on the Hill ........ 8 
 
 His Next of Kin 14 
 
 His Rustic Wife 13 
 
 History of the United States, A . . . . . .3 
 
 Helen Bury . . . . . . . . .15 
 
 Holy Christian Empire ....... 25 
 
 Household of MacNeil, The 14 
 
 House of Bondage, The ....... 14 
 
 How Much is Left of the Old Doctrine ..... 9 
 
 How the Children Raised the Wind . . . . .18 
 
 How to Become Like Christ . . . . . .20 
 
 How to Read the Bible 19, 24 
 
 Husbands and Wives . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Incarnation of the Lord, The ...... 8 
 
 Industrial Explorings in and around London . . . .13 
 
 Infoldings and Unfoldings of the Divine Genius in Nature and 
 
 Man 21 
 
 Inspiration and Authority of the Bible, The . . .19 
 
 Israel's Law Givers, The Messages of . . . .10 
 
 Jan Vedder's Wife 14 
 
 Jealousy of God, The 21 
 
 Jesus according to the Synoptists, The Messages of . .10 
 
 Joan Carisbroke . . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Joshua, The Book of . . . . . . . .7 
 
 Judges, The Book of 7 
 
 Kingdom of the Lord Jesus, The . . . . .21 
 
 Kit Kennedy : Country Boy ...... 4 
 
 Lady Clarissa ......... 14
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 29 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Last of the MacAllisters, The ...... 14 
 
 Later Prophets, The Messages of the . . . . .10 
 
 Let Us Pray 19 
 
 Leviticus, The Book of ....... 6 
 
 Life and Letters of Paul the Apostle, The .... 6 
 
 Life and Literature of the Ancient Hebrews, The ... 5 
 
 Literary World, The 26 
 
 Lillingstones, The . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Lottie Lonsdale . . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Louis Wain Nursery Book, The . . . . . .22 
 
 Loveliness . ......... 13 
 
 Lynch, Rev. T. T. : A Memoir 6 
 
 Making of an Apostle, The ....... 20 
 
 Margaret Torrington . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Married Life . ........ 15 
 
 Martineau's Study of Religion . . . . . .21 
 
 Maud Bolingbroke . . . . . . . .15 
 
 Max Hereford's Dream ....... 25 
 
 Messages of the Bible, The . . . . . . .10 
 
 Method of Prayer, A . . . . . . . .15 
 
 Millicent Kendrick . . . . . . . .14 
 
 More Tasty Dishes 22 
 
 Mornington Lecture, The ....... 6 
 
 Mr. Montmorency's Money . . . . . . .14 
 
 New Mrs. Lascelles, The ....... 8 
 
 New Points to Old Texts 13 
 
 New Testament in Modern Speech, The . . . .16 
 
 Nineteen Hundred ? . . . . . . . .13 
 
 Nobly Born ......... 14 
 
 Nonconformist Church Buildings ... . . . .17 
 
 Old Pictures in Modern Frames ...... 20 
 
 Oliver Cromwell ........ 24 
 
 Oliver Westwood . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Ordeal of Faith, The 17 
 
 Our Girls' Cookery 22 
 
 Our New House ......... 15 
 
 Ourselves and the Universe . . . . . .11 
 
 Overdale .......... 14 
 
 Paul and Christina . . . . . . . .14 
 
 Paul, The Messages of . ....... 10 
 
 Paxton Hood : Poet and Preacher . . . . .13 
 
 Polychrome Bible, The 2, 6, 7 
 
 Popular History of the Free Churches, A . . . .3 
 
 Preaching to the Times . . . . . . .11 
 
 Prophetical and Priestly Historians, The Messages of .10 
 
 Prophet Isaiah, The Book of 2 
 
 Psalms, The Book of 2 
 
 Questions for the Free Churches . . . . . .17 
 
 Quickening of Caliban, The . . . . . .11 
 
 Quiet Hints to Growing Preachers . . . . .15 
 
 Race and Religion . . . . . . . .19 
 
 Reconsiderations and Reinforcements . . . . .21 
 
 Religion of Jesus, The . . . . . . . .13 
 
 Religion that will Wear, A . . . . . . .17 
 
 Rights of Man, The 5
 
 30 
 
 JAMES CLARKE AND CO.'S 
 
 
 PACK 
 
 Robert Wreford's Daughter. .... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Rome from the Inside ...... 
 
 . 24 
 
 Rosebud, The 
 
 . 26 
 
 Rosebud Annual ...... 
 
 9 
 
 Rose of a Hundred Leaves, A .... 
 
 4 
 
 Ruling Ideas of the Present Age .... 
 
 9 
 
 School Hymns . ...... 
 
 15, 25 
 
 School of Life, The ...... 
 
 . 15 
 
 Sceptre Without a Sword, The .... 
 
 . 24 
 
 Scourge of God, The ...... 
 
 4 
 
 Sermons for Children ...... 
 
 . 10 
 
 Seven Puzzling Bible Books ..... 
 
 7 
 
 Shall I Join the Church of Rome ? . 
 
 . 23 
 
 Ship of the Soul, The 
 
 . 21 
 
 She Loved a Sailor ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Short Devotional Services ..... 
 
 . 19 
 
 Singlehurst Manor ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Sir Julian's Wife ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Sissie ........ 
 
 . 14 
 
 Sister to Esau, A ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Small Books on Great Subjects .... 
 
 20, 21 
 
 Social Salvation. ...... 
 
 9 
 
 Social Worship an Everlasting Necessity 
 
 . 20 
 
 Squire of Sandal Side, The... .... 
 
 . 14 
 
 St. Beetha's ....... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Story of Penelope, The ..... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Studies of the Soul.. ..... 
 
 . 11 
 
 Study of Christian Missions, A . 
 
 . 10 
 
 Sunday Afternoon Song Book .... 
 
 23, 25 
 
 Sunday School Times, The ..... 
 
 . 26 
 
 Supreme Argument for Christianity, The 
 
 . 21 
 
 Tale of a Telephone, A ..... 
 
 . 23 
 
 Taste of Death, and the Life of Grace, The 
 
 . 20 
 
 Tasty Dishes ....... 
 
 . 22 
 
 Tasty Dishes and More Tasty Dishes 
 
 . 17 
 
 Ten Commandments, The. ..... 
 
 . 16 
 
 Theology of an Evolutionist, The .... 
 
 8 
 
 Theophulus Trinal, Memorials of . 
 
 6 
 
 Thornycroft Hall 
 
 . 14 
 
 Through Science to Faith ..... 
 
 5 
 
 Tommy, and Other Poems ..... 
 
 . 23 
 
 Tools and the Man ...... 
 
 9 
 
 Types of Christian Life ..... 
 
 . 20 
 
 Unique Class Chart and Register .... 
 
 . 25 
 
 Unity of Isaiah, A Popular Argument for the 
 
 . 17 
 
 Violet Vaughan ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Vital Virtues, The 
 
 . 18 
 
 Warleigh's Trust ...... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Way of Life, The 
 
 . 21 
 
 Wayside Angela ...... 
 
 . 23 
 
 Wife as Lover and Friend, The .... 
 
 . 16 
 
 Wife's Trials, The 
 
 . 14 
 
 Woman's Patience, A ..... 
 
 . 14 
 
 Words by the Wayside ..... 
 
 . 20 
 
 Woven of Love and Glory ..... 
 
 . 14
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. 
 
 31 
 
 Index of Authors. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Abbott, Lyman . . 5, 
 
 8 
 
 Greenhough, J. G. . 20 
 
 Adeney, W. F. . 17, 19, 
 
 24 
 
 Griffith-Jones, E. . ., 20 
 
 Aitchison, George 
 
 19 
 
 Griffis, William Elliot . 6 
 
 Aked.C. F. 
 
 12 
 
 Gunn, E. H. Mayo . 15, 25 
 
 Allin, Thomas . 
 
 19 
 
 Guy on, Madame . .15 
 
 Andom, B. 
 
 13 
 
 
 Armstrong, Richard A. 
 
 21 
 
 Hay craft, Mrs. . . .13 
 
 
 
 Henson, Canon Hensley . 11 
 
 Bainton, George 
 
 16 
 
 Hood, E. Paxton . .13 
 
 Barr, Amelia E. . 4, 
 
 14 
 
 Horder, W. Garrett . .21 
 
 Barrett, G. S. 
 
 16 
 
 Horne.C. Silvester 3, 17, 18, 19 
 
 Bartlett, E. T. . 
 
 3 
 
 Horton, Dr. R. F. . 7, 20, 24 
 
 Bennett, Rev. W. H. . 7, 
 
 17 
 
 Humberstone, W. J. . . 23 
 
 Benvie, Andrew 
 
 8 
 
 Hunter, John . . .20 
 
 Bloundelle-Burton, J. 
 
 4 
 
 
 Bradford, Amory H. . 8, 
 
 21 
 
 "J. B." of The Christian 
 
 Brierley, Rev. J. . 11, 
 
 17 
 
 World . . . .24 
 
 Briggs, Prof. C. A. . 
 
 8 
 
 Jefferson, C. E. . .16 
 
 Brooke, Stopford A. . 
 
 21 
 
 
 Burford, W. K. 
 
 23 
 
 Kane, James J. . .18 
 
 
 
 Kaye, Bannerman . . 4 
 
 Campbell, Rev. R. J. . 5, 
 
 20 
 
 Kennedy, H. A. . 23, 25 
 
 Cheyne, T. K. . 
 
 2 
 
 Kennedy, John . .17 
 
 Clarke, Newton 
 
 10 
 
 Kent, Charles Foster. . 10 
 
 Clifford, Dr. .12, 19, 
 
 20 
 
 
 Crockett, S. R. . 
 
 4 
 
 Lyall, Edna . . 18, 25 
 
 Cubitt, James . 
 
 17 
 
 Lynch, T. T. . . .6 
 
 
 
 Lynd, William . . .18 
 
 Dods, Marcus . 
 
 20 
 
 
 Driver, S. R. . 
 
 6 
 
 Macfarlane, Charles . .11 
 
 
 
 Mackennal, Alexander . 21 
 
 Elligott, Minnie 
 
 25 
 
 Manners, Mary E. . .23 
 
 
 
 Martineau, James . . 20 
 
 Farningham, Marianne 
 
 13 
 
 Mather, Mrs. Lessels. . 22 
 
 Fisher, F. H. . 
 
 23 
 
 Mather, Z. . . .7 
 
 Fiske, J 
 
 3 
 
 Matheson, George . 20, 24 
 
 Forsyth, P. T. . 
 
 20 
 
 Maver, J. S. . . .19 
 
 Forsyth, Rev. Principal 
 
 25 
 
 Meade, L. T. . . .8 
 
 Fraser, J. . 
 
 15 
 
 Moore, G. F. . . .7 
 
 Funcke, O. 
 
 15 
 
 Morgan, Rev. G. Campbell. 16 
 
 
 
 Munger, T. T. . . .12 
 
 Gibbon, J. Morgan . 
 
 16 
 
 
 Gladden, Washington 7, 9, 12, 
 
 18 
 
 Pharmaceutical Chemist, A 22 
 
 Glass, Henry Alexander . 
 
 6 
 
 Peters, J. P. . . .3
 
 32 
 
 JAMES CLARKE AND CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 PAGE PAGE 
 
 Phelps, Elizabeth S. . 
 
 13 
 
 Snell, Bernard J. 
 
 16 
 
 Picton, J. Allanson . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Powicke, F. J. . 
 
 3 
 
 Thomas, H. Arnold . 
 
 21 
 
 Pulsford, John . 
 
 21 Toy, Rev. C. H. 
 
 2 
 
 Rickett, J. Compton 11, 12, 
 
 23 Wain, Louis 
 
 22 
 
 Ridette, J. H. . 
 
 25 Wellhausen, J. . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Weymouth, R. F. 
 
 16 
 
 Sadler, Thomas . 
 
 10 White, H. A. . 
 
 6 
 
 Sanders, Frank Knight 
 
 10 White, William 
 
 6 
 
 Scottish Presbyterian, A . 
 
 17 Whiton, J. M. 12, 13, 18, 21, 
 
 23 
 
 Sinclair, Archdeacon . 
 
 21 Worboise, Emma J. . 14, 
 
 15 
 
 Smyth, Dr. Newman. 
 
 5 
 
 
 W. Speaiyht ar.d Sons, Printers t'etttr Lane, E.C.
 
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