IN MEJAOmAIA Dr. TkllXfi G,r^-f- Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 http://archive.org/details/crofuttsnewoverlOOcrofrich i BY ALL ODDS THE BEST EQUIPPED :B^ LET IT IJE FOKEVEU KEMEAIBEKED THAT THE Chicag and Northwestern Is the BEST AND SHORTEST ROUTE to and from CHICAGO AND COUNCIL BLUFFS (Omaha), and that it ig^preferred by all well posited travelers when passing to or from CALI FORN I A/GOLORADO! It also operates the BEST ROUTE and the SHORT LINE between Chicago and St. Paul and Minneapolis Milwaukee, La Crosse, Sparta, Madison, Fort Howard (Green Bay), Wis., Winona, Owatonna, Mankato, Minn., Cedar liapids, Des Moines, Webster City, Algrona, Marslialltowu, Clinton, la., Freeport, Elgin, Kockford, III. Are amongst its 800 local stations on its lines. Among a few of the nurtierous points of superiority enjoyed by the patrons of this road, are its. Ifi A If r n A P WWSfe Which are the Finest that Human Art HM^JL %L^\J-M.t^M^m/.m and Ingenuity can creat e ; its Fa.latia.1 Sleeping Oars Which are Models of Comfort and Elegance ; its Which are Unsurpassed by any ; and its Widely Celebrated NORTH-WESTEHN DINING CABS The like of which are not run by anv other road anywhere. In short it is asserted that IT IS THE BEST EQUIPPED ROAD IN THE WORLD. All points of interest North, Northwest and West of Chict^go, busiiiess centres, summer resorts and noted hunting and fishing grounds are aijcersi- ble by. the various branches of this road. It owns and controls over 5,000 miles of road and has over four hundred passenger conductors constantly caring for its millions of patrons. Ask your tiol^^t agent for tickets via this route, and TAKE NONE OTHER. AH .jading ticket agents sell them. It costs no more to tr- vol . vr , -is route,. / it gives flrst-class accommodations, than it does to g ..oorlv '-/dipped roads. j^or maps, descriptive circulars and summer resort papers, or othai iu- formation not obtainable at your local ticket office, write to the ' Go.iYl Pass. Agent, C. & N.-W. R'y, CMcago, IP OROFUTT'g' / / Ne^w Overland TOXJR-I^-dl^vV. OF PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, ■ CONTAINING A CONDENSED AND AUTHENTIC DESCEIPTION OF OVEB . One Thousand Three Hundred Cities, Towns, Villages, Stations, Govern- ment Fort and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Kivers, Sulphur, Soda and Hot Springs, Scenery, Watering Places and Summer Eesorts ; where To look far and hunt the Buffalo, Antelope, Deer and otJier game; Trout Fishing, etc., etc. In fact, to tell you what is worth seeing— where to see it — where to go — hmv to go — and whom to stop with while passing aver the UN10f(, KANS/\S, mp^i /ND SOUTHEI^N P/CIFIC I^AlLt[0/DS, Their Branches and Connections, by Bail, Water and Stage, FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET, AND PART THE WAY BACK; Through Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, Oalifomia, Arizona and New Mexico. Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by Thk Ovebland Publishing Co., in the oflace of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. BY GrBZO. J^. CRO^UXT, AUTHOB OF "GBEAT TBANS-CONTINENTAL BAILBOAD G^IDE," "CBOFUTT'S TBANS-CONTINENTAIj TOUBIST" AND "CEOFUTT'S GBIP-SACK GUIDE OF COIiOBADO." 1.83^. OMAHA, NEB. AND DENVEB, COL. : THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING COMPANY Sold by News Agents on the Bailroads, at News Stands and at the Book Stores throughout the . _ _ United States. Baekalow Beos., General News Agents, Union Pacific Kailway and Branches ; Missouri, Kansas & Texas R. R. ; Kansas City, Ft. Scott & Gulf Bailway ; Kansas City, Lawrence & Southern Eailway* Kailboad News Co., on Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe ; the Denver & Eio Grande, and Burlington & Missouri in Neb. Eiii S. Denison, General News Agent, Central and Southern Pacific Bailroads ; General Agent for the Pacific Coast, Sacramento and San Francisco. leth VoAiY^.^1884. PREFACE. T^^r^z, With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible as a preface, the precedent for writing a preface is established^i and woej be to the Scribe who ignores precedent and custom— he could not live on] this planet. At the present day the preface of a book is read by the publ^ '-if at all —in the light of an apology, wherein the author is expected t. explain, first, why he did not do better, and, second, why he wrote at all. FiKST— We have spared neither time, pains nor money to make this a perfect book. Our statements are concise, ylaiUy unadorned, and, we be- lieve, truthful in every particular. Yet we should shudder at the charge of being absolutely perfect Second— We wrote this book for Money and Xove. For Moi^EY to help the poor. For love of the far western country— the land of the " Golden Fleece." For love of its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure air, healthful climate, magnificent scenery; unrivalled resources, and its unaffected, whole-souled people. We have taken the traveler with us— in a chatty way— on the longest trip ever attempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and have recorded a telegram of the most important facts and items of inf (!rm- ationina trip of over 15,000 miles by rail, steamer and stage coach. We have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the most barren deserts ; we have climbed from sunrise to eternal snow, only to glide down into perpetual summer, and the orange groves and vine- yards of the *'Land of the Angels." We have crossed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most rugged mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in depth; and through 100 miles of snow sheds and tunnels. Again, we have stood beneath a dome rising 6,000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet in height, and 48 feet in diameter; have strolled amid the redwoods, where they grow so thick that were they felled the ground would be covered to a depth of sixty feet We have passed through the celebrated Echo, Weber, Humboldt and Solidad cafions ; over the great Colorado desert, around "Cape Horn" and the ''Dead Sea," down the Bitter and over the Green and Black waters, echoing near the "DeviVs Slide "and the great **Sink" of the Desert; descended into total darkness, with jets of boiling sulphur on either hand, and finally through the Devil's Gate, but landing safely at the Golden Gate. The scenery on this route has been the most varied ; we have 8,242 feet above f^nd 366 feet below sea level; have taken our breakfast amid the ^'now, and our supper in a land of perpetual summer, and have o^^^v down from far above "timber line" into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day' of the year. The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi coun- try in 1860, as a " Pilgrim," and upon the completion of the Pacific railroad line, wrote the ^rsi descriptive guide of the roads— from actual observa- tion— the " Great Trans-Continental Eailroad Guide " of 1869 : Soon "Cro- futt's Tourist" followed, the publication of which was continued thereaf- ter. The popularity, of these books was so great that the sale aggregated, infourteen years, over 500,000 copies. The present book describes more than /our times the extent ot coun- try of i ny book heretofore published, and is'profusely illustrated by nearly 100 beautiful engravings, most of which were photographed, designed, drawn and engraved expressly for the author of this work. It also con- tains V^mhest and most complete map— in colors— ever published, the plates of whi^i cost over $4,000. Annex— A department in the back part of this book, originated by the author, under which will be found a mass of condensed information, indi- rectly pertaining to the subject-matter of this work; and under which also contains descriptions of the large, double-page illustrations. From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numer- ous; no less than thirty-one " Guide-books," "Tourists' Hand-books" and "Books of Travels across the Continent," etc., etc., have been issued, inost of which were compiled in the East— without their compilers traveling over one foot of the route, or, at l6ast, not spending more than a few days on the road— while we have spent the best part of every year since 1860 ac- quiring the information— every item of which we are prepared to verify. To some " correspondents " across the continent our books have proved an unusual " God-send," enabling them to minutely describe the wonders of the trip passed in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, CstUally as well as though they \yere awake and in perpetual daylight. Now we do not mean to complain of these experimenter^, as they are doubtless "good fellows," but we do expect the courtesies usually ex- tended by all honorable writers. GEO. A. CEOFUTT. 7411)62 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS Jjaxge Views. No. Ameidcan Progress 1 Big Trees, Fallen Monarch. 6 Cape Horn, Columbia Biver 10 Castellated Rocks at Green Eiver 2 Fort Point, Golden Gate 4 Falls of the Yellowstone 8 Falls of the Williamette 9 Mirror Lake, Yo-Semite 12 Mt. Shasta, Cahfornia 15 Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite... 13 Sutter's Mill Race 3 Steamboat Rock, Echo 6 Summit Sierras 14 State Capital of California. . 16 San Francisco and Surroud- ings 18 The Geysers, California 17 Valley of the Yellowstone . . 7 "Wood Hauling in Nevada ... 11 niustrations. Page. American Ri.ver Canon 130 Bee Hive Geyser 24 Burning Rock Cut 75 Big Mule Team 28 Bfigham Young 89 Brigham Young's Residence 97 Bloomer Cut 168 Before the Railroad 115 -Bird'sEyeviewof the'Loop' 214 Bird's Eye View of Plains . . 13 -Crossing the Truckee River. 73 Cacti Giganti 235 Page. Crossing the "Loop" 215 Cattle Brands 254 Crossing the "Range" on Snow Skates 60 Devil's Slide.Weber Canon.. 33 Dale Creek Bridge 37 Down the W eber River 46 Donner Lake Boating Party 98 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon.. 75 Eagle Rock Bridge 110 Eagle Gate 109 Entering the Palisades 106 Eureka 150 Finger Rock, Weber 42 Forest View, Foot Hill 99 First Steam Train 66 First Mountain Express. . . . 152 General Offices U. P 23 "Giantess," Geyser 113 "Giant" Geyser 146 Hanging Rock, Am. Fork. . . 15 Hanging Rock, Echo Canon.. 26 mgh School, Omaha 29 Humbolt House 138 Hydraulic Mining 158 Interior View Snow Shed. . . 72 Interior View Mormon Tab- ernacle 85 IndiansWatching the Pacifle Railway 233 James Bridger 77 Leland Standford, C, P. R. R 114 Looking up at Cape Horn. . . 160 Livermore Pass Tunnel 17'7 Missouri River Bridge 22 Monument Rock, BlackHills 44 Mormon Temple 92 Pagh. Mormon " Holiness to the Lord" 01 Map of Routes in California 120 Orange Grove and Palms ... 10 Overland Pony Express 151 One Thousand Mile Tree. . . 84 Profile Map U. P. Ry 35 Packing to Virginia City. ... 115 Palisades of the Humboldt.. 68 Pricky, the Horned Toad. . . 81 Pulpit Rock, Echo Canon... 83 Profile Map of C. P. R. R. . . 117 Palace Hotel 189 Rounding Cape Horn 159 Sidney DlUon. U. P. Ry 17 Seal of California 150 Steamer "Solano" 186 Summit of the Mountains. . . 55 Seals and Sea Lions 65 Snow Galleries 67 Starvation Camp y. 71 Snow Sheds 143 SeallRocks & Pacific Ocean. 195 San Pedro's Wife 223 Three Tetons 19 "The Grand," Geyser 104 The Santa Ritas 239 'Hie Last Spike 118 The Maden's Grave 133 Truckee River 136 Utah's Best Crop.. Frontispiece. Union Depot, Kansas City . . 48 Union Depot Hotel 20 View of Salt Lake City 69 Yo-Semite FaUs 101 Yucca Palm 221 GENERAL IKDEX. Cities, Towns, Villa- • gea and Stations. Page. Page. Athlone 210 Anaheim 224 Atkins 44 Acampo 176lApplegate 163 Acton 218 Archer 45 Adams 43 Arcade 165 Abilene 53 Aroyo 56 Adonde Agate 56 Alpha 130 Alameda 181 Alila 213 Alpine 218 AJda 34 Alta 95-157 AlkaB Altamont 179 Alder Alma Alvin 27 American Fork. . . . Ames 31 Andrews 220 Andersons 144-170 Antelope, Neb 43 Antelope, Cal 165 Antioch 172 Antiech Station..^.. 179 Anita 170 Argenta 134 Arimo 109 j^rmstrong 50 Aspen 79 Ayburn 164 Austin 135 Aurora Bantas 178 Bakersfield . . : 2^3 Battle Creek.... ^... 109 Battle Mountain.... 135 Page. Benton 31 Benicia 187 Bennington 108 Bernal 204 Berenda 211 -o-wa-we 133 Bethany 178 Barro 197 Big Spring 39 Bingham 93 Bitter Creek 70 Bishops 126 BlackButtes 70 Black Rock 102 Bxackfoot Ill B.oomfleld 163 Bxue Creek 116 B ue Canon 157 Page. Bronco 150 Brigham 106-116 Bridgei)ort 185 Batavia 186 Bosler Berton 40Bowie 241 Bavaria 53Bovlne 123 Baxter 71BoxSprings 130 Bealville 2l6BoxElder 56 Belmont 204 Bennett 56 Beaver Canon Ill BeUe Marsh 109 Belvoir 51 Benson 239 Boise 122 Bonneville 116 Boca 150 Borden 211 Brady Island 37 Brainard 27 Bryan *.. 76 Bridger 78 Brighton 173 Brown's 140-145 Brookville 64 Brownson 41 Brule 39 Buckeye 170 Buda 34 Buck Creek 51 BunkerHiU 64 BuUion 129 Bums 44 Butte 112 Buford 67 Bushnell 43 BurUngame 204 Buena Vista 162 Byers 66 Cabazon 229 Carson 147 Carlyle 65 Carquinez 137 Cachisa 240 Calistoga 197 GENERAL INDEX. — Continuied. Cities, Towns, Villa- ges and Stations CONTINtJED. Page. CaU'sFork 106 CaUente 2j6 Cana 170 Cactus 230 castle 176 Camas Ill Cameron 217 Cannon 185 cascade 156 castle Rock 82 CastroYille 208 Carlin 128 carter 77 carbon 64 Carbondale, Kan. ... 51 Carbondale, Cal 175 Carnadero 207 Casa Granda 236 Camptonvllle 163 cedar Point 56 cedar 125-131 central City 32 Centerville 89 Cbappel 41 Cburch Buttes 76 Cbeyenne Wells.... 55 Cheyenne, Wy 45 Chico.. Chualar 208 Cbapman, Kan 53 chapman, Neb .... Cicero 175 Cbarlestown 240 Clarkston 107 Cisco 157 Clay Centre Clarks,Neb Clarks, Nev 144 Clear Creek, Cal 170 Clear Creek, Neb 27 Clipper Gap 163 Clifton 52-107-241 Cloveidale 200 Clyde 52 Cluro 132 CoUingston 107 Colyer 55 C. H. MiUs 159 Colfax 161 Colorado Junction.. 56 Coin 137 Coyote Contention 240 Como 64 Concordia 52 Colusa 171 Columbus 31 Colton, Neb 41 Colton, Cal 228 Croydon 85 Cooper Jjake Corinne 116 Cornwall 179 Cottonwood 170 Council Bluffs 16 Cozad Cheston, Cal 185 Creston, "Wy Curtis 183 Cucamonga 228 Davisville 183 Page. David City 27 Darrance 54 Dana 65 Decota 180 Deeth 126 Deming 242 Deer Creek 98 Deep Wells 130 Denver Junction .... 40 Desert 142 Deweyville 106 Detroit 63 Devil's Gate 86 Diamond 131 Dixon 185 DiUon 112 Dix... 43 Dexter 39 Downejrville 163 Donahue 198 Dutch Flat 157 Dragoon Summit 240 Dos Palmos 230 Downey 224 Draper 96 Duncan's Mill.s 203 Duncan Dunham Echo Edwardsville 50 Eagle Rock Ill Ellis, Cal 179 Egbert 44 Edson 65 El Casco , EUis,Kan 54 Exlsworth 54 Elko 7.... 12 Elk Grove... 175 Elm Creek, Neb 35 Fhn Creek 54 Elmira 185 Elkhorn Emigrant Gap 157 Empire, Nev 147 Emory 82 Essex 150 Evanston 80 Evans, Nev. 129 Eureka 131-1*8 Ewing 167 Fairfield 185 Fermont 60 Farmington 88 Flowing WeUs .....'. 230 Florin 1*75 Fink's Springs...... 230 Fillmore 68 Folsom :..... 173 Fort Harker 64 FortRiley 62 Fort Fred Steele. . , Fort Saunders 61 Fowler Forest City 163 Franktown 145 Franklin 108 Fremont, Neb 27 Frisco 102 Freeport 172 Fresno 212 Fulton 200 Gait 175 Garfield 103 Page. Gannett 38 Gardner Pass 131 Gey serviUe 200 Gerard 217 Gibbon 34 Gila City 232 Gila Bend 234 GUmore 25 Gilroy 207 Golconda 137 Gold Hill 148 Gold Run 158 Gospel Swamp 225 Gorham 54 Goshen 212 Grainfield 55 Granite Point 140 Grayling 112 Grinnell 55 Grangers 76 Grants ville 61 Green River 72 Grass Valley 162 Gridley 169 Greenville 67 Granite Canon 67 Grand Island 32 Gurney ville , HaUviUe 70 Half-way House 103 Hallack 126 Hamelton 131 Hampton 77 Hamlet 202 Harney 69 Harrisvillo 105 Harper's 63 Havens 32 Hay ward's 180 Hay Ranch 129 Hays 64 Healdsburg 200 Hendrey 37 Hillsdale 44 HiUiard 79 Hoge 60 HoUester 207 Honey ville 106 Hooker 170 Hot Springs 142 Howard 203 Howells 63 Huffakers 144 Humboldt 139 Hugo 66 Huron r... 212 Hutton's 63 Hyde Park 108 Hyrum 107 Idaho, Idaho 122 Independence 124 Indio 229 Ii-onPoint 137 lone 175 Illinoistown 161 lowaHUl 161 Jossleyn.... 36 Jordan 93 Juab 101 Julesburg 40 Junction, Poseville. 164 Junction City, Kan. . 52 Junction, Cal 201 Junction, Utah 93 „ Page. Kansas City 49 Kaysville 88 Keen 216 Kearney Junction ... 84 Kelton 122 K.ingsburg 212 tvingsville 52 Kinney's 51 Kit Carson 66 Knights Landing.171-183 Kress Summit 162 Lake 122 Latham 70 Laramie 61 Lake View 145 Lava Siding Ill Lawrence, Kan 60 Lawrenceburg 62 Lake Point lOS Lang 219 Lathrop 178 Leavenworth 60 Lehi 96 Lenape 60 Lewistown 108 Leroy 78 Lerdo 213 Lincoln, Neb 2'? Lincoln 166 Lin wood 50 Livermore 179 Little York 158 Little Cottonwood. . . 93 Live Oak 169 Lockwood .,. . 82 Lodge Pole 41 Lodi 176 Logan 108 Lomo 189 Lookout 63-147 Loray 124 Lordsburg 241 Lorenzo 180 Loring 50 Los Angeles 220 Lovelocks 140 Lucin 123 Maracopa 234 Madera ...:.. 211 Madrono . 206 Malad 1^7 Mammoth Tank. . .:, . 230 Manhattan :..\. 52 Market Lane Ill Martinez 179 Mariposa 210 Marston 76 Marysville 167 Matlin .122 Maxwell '37 Mayfield 205 McConnells 175 McPherson, Kan .... 53 McPherson, Neb ^7 Mead 27 Medicine Bow €4 Medina 51 Meb-ose, Cal 181 Melrose, Mon 112 Menlo Park 205 Me-no-kew 62 Mendon 107 Mercede 210 Mercer 27 GENERAL I N D EX . — Co n t i nued . Cities, Towns, Villa- g:es and Stations. continued. Page Mescal 23« Mesquite 230 Michigan Bar 175 Midway I'i9 MUbra 204 MiUard 26 Milford, Kan 52 Millord, Utah 101 MiUCity 139 Mill Station 145 Millis 80 Millville 107 Mineral 130 Mirage, Colo 66 Mirage, Nev 142 Miser 63 Mississippi Bend. ... 172 Modesto 210 MoneU 70 Monida Ill Mojava 217 Mono 100 MonteUo Monterey MontpeUer 109 Monument 122 Moore's 124 Moore's Summit. ... 60 Monte 227 Moleen 128 Mokelumne 175 Morano 210 Morganville 62 Mound House 148 Murphys 195 Mystie 150 Natividad 224 Nadeau 217 Napa 196 Nevada, Cal 163 Napa Junction. . .185-196 N.E.Mills 163 Newton 107 NewhaU 219 Newport 224 Newman 61 New Castle 164 New Cambria 53 Kelson Nephi 101 Nichols Niles Junction 64 Niles 180 North Platte North Bend 31 Nord 170 North San Juan 163 Norwalk 224 Oakland, East 182 Oakland, Wharf 189 Oakland 182 Oak Knoll 197 Oakville 197 Odessa 35 O'PaUons 39 Ogalalla 39 Ofiden, Kan 62 Ofcden, Utah 87 Olema 202 Omaha 23 jOmbey 122 Page. Oreana 140 Oroville 167 Osino 127 Otto -66 Otego 124 Overton 35 Oxford 107-109 Painted Rocks 234 Palisade 129 Pantano 239 Pajaro 207 Paradise 107 Paris 108 Payson 100 Paddock 32 Plum 36 Papillion 25 Peru 75 Petaluma 199 Petersons 86 Percy 64 Pequop 124 Perry ville 51 Peko 126 Pinole 188 PortNeuff 109 Pasadena 225 Piedmont 79 Picacho, Pilot Knob 230 Pine Station 130 Pino 164 PineBluffs 43 Puente Piute 137 PlacerviUe 11^ Pleasanton 180 Pleasant Grove Pltmi Creek Pomona 227 Point Rocks 70 Potter 42 Proctors 150 Pressor Creek 150 Provo Providence 107 Promontory 117 Pyramid 241 Quarry 116 Raspberry 139 Ravena 219 Rawling 67 Reeds 167 RedButtes 60 Redwood City 204 Redding 170 RedBlufifs 170 Red Desert 70 Red Dog 158 Red Rock 112-236 Reno, Kan 50 Reno. Nev 144 Rio Vista 172 Riverside 27-111 Richmond 108-240 Richland, Kan 61 RiUito 236 Ripon ,. 210 RoseCreek 139Bonoma Rock Creek 63 Rock Springs, Kan. . 64 Rock Springs, Wy ... 71 Rocklia 164 Page. Page. Ross Fork Roscoe , Rossville 52 Rozel 121 Rye Patch 139 Rutherford 197 Russel 64 Savanna 227 Salt Lake 90 Sacramento 165 Santa Monica 221 Santa Ana 224 Santa Clara, Cal 205 Santa Cruz 205 Santa Rosa 199 San Leandro 180 San Pablo 188 San Simon 241 San Bruno 204 San Miguel 204 San Gabriel 226 San Fernando 220 San Francisco 190 Juan, S 207 San Juan, N 163 San Rafael 201 San Quintin 201 San Jose 206 San Joaquin 227 San Mateo 204 San Diego 224 San Juan Capistrano 225 San Bernardino 228 San Gktrgonio 229 SaUda 210 SaltWells 71 SaUna, Kan 63 Sahnas 208 Sandy 94 Salvia 144 Sargents 207 Santaquin 100 Sand Creek 218 Seco 122 Sesma 170 Separation 68 Sepulveda 220 Sentinel 234 Seven Palms 229 Schuyler, Colo 66 Schuyler, Neb 31 Sheridan,Cal 167 Sheridan, Kan 65 Sherman 67 Shoshone 134 Shady Run 157 Silver Lake.... Shelton 34 Silver Creek 32 Silver City, Nev 148 Silver City, Idaho... 122 Siegel 61 Sidney 41 Silver Station 148 Simpson 64 Sole 20 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST THE UNION PACIFIC DEPOT. The Transfer Crrounds— are about two miles west of Council Bluffs, and about half a mile east of the Missouri Eiver Bridge. Here, all passengers, baggage, express, and mails on arriving from the eastward, change to cars of the Union Pacific. A large fine building affords ample accommodation for passengers, and for the transaction of all kinds of bus- iness connected with the transfer. The tracks of the eastern roads ter- minate at the eastern front. Between these tracks are long wide covered platforms along which passengers, mails, baggage, etc., reach the depot, and after passing through the build- ing, find the Union Pacific trains wait- ing on the west side. The Union Depot is a model of con- venience, built of brick with stone trimmings,— two stories. On the first floor are two large waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen, ticket,telegraph and express offices, baggage and news rooms, restaurant, lunch counter, barber, etc. The second story of the building is divided into rooms for hotel accommodations, the parlors are elegant, the rooms,— 40 in num- ber — are very large, furnished in the best manner, with hot and cold water, gas, annunciators, etc. A "Dummy" train leaves the depot for Omaha every hour through the day, and horse cars from the south side of the depot for Council Bluffs, regularly. The Emigrant Hoiise-^so-call- ed, is situated a short distance west of the Depot on the north side of the track. It was built by the Union Pa- cific Co., and is run by their direction for the accommodation and protec- tion of their emigrant passengers. The building is of wood, has 70 rooms comfortably furnished, accommoda- ting 200 persons, and charges only suf- ficient to cover cost; plain, substan- tial meals, 25 cents each. The handling of the baggage at this depot is no small item. The baggage room is very large, as well as the num- ber of "smashers," but, as the latter are always under the eye of Mr. Tray- nor. General Baggage Agent of the road, the baggage is not only handled quickly but with a. fatherly care. Passengers will here re-check their baggage, and secure tickets in one of CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 21 the Palace Sleeping Cars that ac- companies all through trains, and there- by insure an opportunity for a refresh- ing sleep, as well as a palace by night and day. This, however, costs an extra fee. The charges are over the Union Pacific from Omaha, $8.00 ; from Ogden, over the Central Pacific, to the Pacific Coast cities, $6.00. But as all cannot afford to ride in palace cars, secure — pre-empt, if you please—the best seat you can, and prepare to be happy. j^"Sleeping car and stop-over privil- eges are not allowed on second and third- class tickets. [See Note, p. 149.] Bag- gage can be checked only to the desti- nation of second and third-class tick- ets— 100 lbs. allowed free on each full, and 50 lbs. on each half-ticket of all classes. Extra baggage is $10 to $15 per 100 lbs. according to class. Passen- fers holding first-class tickets to San 'rancisco, with pre-paid orders for steamer passage to trans-Pacific ports, will be allowed 250 lbs. baggage, free, on presentation of such orders to the baggage agent at the Transfer, or Omaha; on second-class tickets, 150 lbs., free. Orders for steamsliip passage can be purchased at the Transfer, or Omaha depot ticket offices. For rates of Fare see Annex Ko. 4. Lunch Baskets— With only two or three exceptions, all the eating-houses on this line are good. The good ones have our ap- proval, but the others— Oh ! well— should you provide yourself with a small basket of provisions, and use it accordingly, it would tend to preserve your temper. The accommodations at all the principal sta- tions for those who wish to " stop over " a day or two, are ample ; charges, from $3,00 to $4.00 per day. For a Brief Sketch op Our Western Country — The Far West — Con- densed History — Organization op the Pacific Railroad— Land Grant — Cost of Construction — Material Used — Importance of the Road — Facts in Brief- Grumblers— See An- nex No. 5. One Word More— As you arc about to launch out upon the broad, sweeping i:lains, the barren desert, and the .2:rand oldlnoun. tains — for all these varied features of 'ke earth's surface will be encountered before we reach the Pacific Coast— lay aside all city prej udices and ways for the time ; leave them here^ and for once be natural while among nature's loveliest and grandest crea. tions. Havmg done this, you will be pre- pared to enjoy the trip — to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively before you. But, above all forget everything but the journey; and in this consists the great aeerei of having a good time generally. Are you ready?— The bell rings, *'Aj1 aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its course due west towards the Missouri River Bridge— The construc- tion of this bridge was first authorized by Congress on the 25th of July, 1866, but very little was done until March, 1868, when work commenced, and was continued from that time until July 26, 1869, when it was suspended. Nothing more was done until April, 1870, when a second contract was made with the American Bridge Company of Chicago, and work again comm( need. On the 24th of February, 1871, Congn ss passed a special act authorizing the Union Pacific Railroad Company to construct this bridge across the Missouri River, and to issue bonds lo the amount of $2,500,000. The county of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, under certain conditions, aid in county bonds to the amount of $250,000. Also, Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under certain conditions, aid to the amount of $205,000. This bridge is a notable structure (see illustration), one-half mile in length, with the approaches over one mile. It is located below the old depot, and op- posite that part of the city of Omaha known as "Train-Town," ana has a single track. The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- ent." The hollow iron columns are 22 in number, two forming a pier. These col- umns are made of cast iron one-and-three- fourths inches in thickness, 8% feet in di- ameter, 10 feet long, and weigh 8 tons each. They are bolted together air-tight, and sunk to the bed-rock of the river, in one case, 82 feet below low-water. After these columns are seated on the rock foundation, they are filled up twenty feet with stone concrete, and from the concrete to the bridge "seat," they are filled with regular masonry. From high- water mark to the bridge "seat," these columns measure 50 feet. The eleven spans are 250 feet in length, making 22 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. f'mwm^mM. ^^^^K i^ i^>.^^ S ^;^/'j:y^ \r':':yf' MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE— OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE. the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. These columns were cast in Chicago, and delivered in the shape ot enermous rings, 10 feet in length. When they were being placed in position the workmen would take two or more rings, join them together, place the column where it was to be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, then force the water from the column by pneumatic pressure, ranging froih 10 to 35 Sounds per square inch. The workmen escend the columns by means of rope- ladders, and fill sand-buckets, which are hoisted through the air-lock by a pvony-en- gine. The sand is then excavated about two feet below the bottom of the column, the men come out through the air-lock, a leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, the pneumatic pressure is removed, and the column sinks, from three inches to two and one-half feet — in one instance, the col- umn steadily sank down 17 feet. When- ever the column sinks, the sand fills in from 10 to 30 feet— in one instance, 40 feet. This has to be excavated before another sinking of a few inches can take place, making altogether a slow and tedious process. Soon after crossing the bridge, our train stops in the Omajia depot — a large build- ing with one enormous span overhead, , built in the most substantial manner, of iron and glass, with six tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side are ample waiting and dining-rooms,* express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and other offices. Passengers who wish to stop over, will find omnibuses at the depot to take them and their baggage to the hotele, or any point in the city ; fare. 50 cents ; or, they will find street cars on the north side of the depot, that leave every fivo rainutcs, passing the principal hotels, and running the whole length of the city ; fare, cents. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 23^ GENERAL OFFICES, UNION PACIFIC BAILWAY CO. Omaha— This is one of the most progressive cities in the West. It is the county seat of Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Mo. River, on a slope about 50 feet above high-water mark, with an altitude of 966 feet above sea level. The first "claim cabin" was built here in 1854, and the place named Omaha, after the Omaha Indians. It is related that the first postmaster of Omaha used his hat for a postoffice.and many times, when the postmaster was on liie prairie, some anxious individual, would chase him for miles until he over- took the traveling postofflce and re- ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little acorns grow," says the old rhyme, 'tis illustrated in this case. The battered- hat postoflflce has given place to a first- class postofflce, commensurate with the future growth of the city, the last cen- sus giving a population of 30,642. In 1875, the Grovernment completed a large court-house and postofflce build- ing, using a very fine quality of Cin- cinnati free-stone. It is 122 feet in length by 66 feet in width— four stories high — cost $350,000, and is one of Die most attractive buildings in llie city. The State capitol was first located here, but was re- moved to Lincoln in 1868. Omaha though the first set- tlement made in Nebraska,is a young city. The town im- f roved steadily un- il 1859,whenlt commenced to gain very rapidly. The inaugurating of the Union Pacific rail- road gave it another onward impetus, and since then the growth of the city has been very rapid. There are many evi- dences of continued prosperity and fu- ture ^eatness, one of which, is the fact that there are no dwelling houses in the city •'To Let;* yet the records show there were, over $2,000,000 expended during 1881 iri new buildings and city improvements. Omaha is the headquarters for half dozen railroads, has three daily pa- pers, the Herald, Bee and Bepuhliccni, besides several periodicals; a grand opera house and several large first- class hotels building. The "Paxton" is the principal one. The amount of jobbing business, banking, packing, manufacturing, grain and produce handling, etc., done in Omaha is im- mense and rapidly increasing. There are twenty-four churches in the*eity and numerous public and private schools. The Omaha people are proud of their public schools. The city lias near $500,000 invested in free school property. The High School is the finest build-f ing of its kind in the Western country,! and stands on Capitol Hill, on the site of the old State House, the highest point in the city, and is the first object which attracts the attention of travel-, ers approaching from the East, North, or South. Its elevation and command^; ing position stand forth as a fitting^ 24 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. Tnonument to attest a people's intelli- gence and worth. [See Annex No. 6.] To the north of the High School building is the Creighton College, j ust completed at a cost of $55,000, with a further endowment of $100,000 the gift •of Mrs. Edward Creighton. The build- ing is 54 by 126 feet— three stories and ■abasement — capable of accommodat- ing 480 pupils. It is a/ree school and conducted Iv the Jesiiit Fathers. BEE HIVE, OR FAN GEYSER, YrLLOWSTONE PARE. Omaha has a beautiful driving park, known as Hanscom Park, the gift of Mr. A. J. Hanscom and Mr. Jas.G. Mc- Gath. It is situated about one mile southwest from the center of the city, contains 80 acres, is in as romantic and picturesque a locality as one could wish, with a perfect forest of shade trees and beautiful walks, fountains, etc. , and , in fact, is "a thing of beaut^^," and to the citizens of Omaha, we be- lieve, will be a joy "for- ever," Omaha is headquar- ters of the Department of the Platte. Fort Om- aha was established in 1868 ; the barracks are 8 in number capable of accommodating 1,00 men. They are situated 3 miles north and in full view of the city. Lati- tude, 40 deg. 20 min. ; longitude, 96 deg. from Greenwich. Eighty acres of land are held as reserved, though no reservation has yet been declared at this post. There is an excel- lent carriage-road to the barracks and a fine drive around them, which affords pleasure parties an excellent op- portunity to witness the dress-parades of the "boys in blue." It is a favorite resort, the parade, the fine drive and improvements around the place call- ing out many of the fa- shionable p 1 e a s u r e- seekers. The grounds are planted with shade trees,and in a f ew years will become one of the many pleasant places around Omaha, The post is the main distributing point for all troops and stores destined for the West. These barracks were erected for the purpose of quarter- ing the troops during CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 35 fhe winter season when their services were not required on the plains, and as a gener- al rendezvous for all troops destined for that quarter. Besides the Union Pacific, there are two other railroads that branch offfn^m Omaha. The Omaha & Northern Nebraska, and the Burlington and Missouri in Nebraska. These roads were chartered under the gen- eral railway act which gave two thousand acres of land for every mile of road com- pleted before a specified time. The route of the Northern is five miles up the Mis- souri River Valley, then northwest to the valley of the Papillion, thence to the Elkhom River, and up the Elkhorn Valley to the mouth of the Niobrara. It is now completed, and cars are running to Teka- mah, Burt county— about 80 miles from Omaha. At Blair connections are made with the Sioux City & Pacific railroad. i he route of the iJ. &. M. R. H. iu N eb. Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, where it crosses the Platte and runs to Lincoln. This road is under the manage- ment of the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad Co., and makes close connections at Orepolis with the main line of the B. «& M. for the East and West. At Omaha, are located the general ofii- ces of the Union Pacific Railroad Com- pany, in a fine, large building just com- pleted and fitted up in the most complete and convenient rhanner. This company employs about 9,000 men; this includes the men employed in the Laramie rolling mill and in the coal mines. There are about 5,000 employed on the road proper; there are 2,050 employed in the shops at Omaha, and about 800 more in the vari- ous offices, at stations, on the track, and at the depots at Omaha, making near 3,000 in all on the Omaha pay rolls. About one 'mile above the bridge, on the low lands fronting the river, the railroad company have located their principal shops and store-houses. They are built of brick, in the most substantial form, and with the out buildings, lumber yard, tracks, etc., cover about 30 acres of ground. The machine shop is furnished with all the new and most improved machineiy, which is necessary for the successful work- ing at all the branches of car and locomo- tive repairs or car construction. The round-house contains 20 stalls; the f >undry, blacksmith shop, car and paint shops, are constructed and furnished in the best manner. The company manufac- ture all of their own cars. The passen- ger cars, in point of neatness, finish, strength of build and size, are unsurpassed by any and rivaled by few manufactured elsewhere. It is the expressed determina- tion of the Union Pacific Company to pro- vide as good cars and coaches for the trav- eling public in St} le and finish as those of- any Eastern road. Theyreason, that as the great trans-continental railroad is the long- est and grandest on the continent, its roll- ing-stock should be equally grand and mag- nificent. From the appearance of the cars already manufactured, they will achieve their desires. On the same principle, we proposed to make our Book superior to any other. Haven't ice clone so? *®" [For time, distances, altitudes, etc., see Table in back of book.] Our train runs along through the southern suburbs of the city, on an ascending grade, 3 2-10 miles to f^nmiiiit Siding— a flag station, where trains seldom stop. Elevation, 1,142 feet, 176 higher than the Omaha depot. But our route is now down- ward for 6 3-10 miles to Oilmore — The country around this station is rich prairie land, well cultivated., A small cluster of buildings stands near .the road ; the station is of little importance, merely for local accommodation. Continuing our descent 5 miles, we reach Papillion (Pap-e-o)— Here we are at the lowest elevation on the whole line, excepting Omaha, which is 6 feet lower. From this station to Sherman, on the Black Hills, 535 miles, it will be a grad- ual up-grade, rising in the distance 7,270 feet. Papillion is the county seat of Sarpy county and has the usual county buildings, some of which are fine structures. The Times, a weekly paper, is published here. The station is on the east side of Papillion River, a narrow stream of some 50 miles in length, which, running southward, empties into Elkhorn River, a few miles below the station. The bridge over the stream is a very substantial wooden struc- ture . The country about the station has been improved very much within the last few years; it has fully doubled its popu- lation, which is now about 1,000, and evi- dences of thrift appear on every hand. Soon after leaving the station, we cross the Papillion River, and 6 4-10 miles brings us to 26 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HANGING ROCK, ECHO CANYON, UTAH. Millard— an unimportant station to the tourist, is situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section — two stores, a flouring mill and hotel; population about 300. Eight miles further, we come to Elkhorn— wh'ch is on the east bank of Elkhorn River, and of considerable im- portance as a point for freight traflic— it be- ing the outlet of Elkhorn River valley. Elkhorn River— is a stream of about 300 miles in length. It rises among the hills of the Divide, near where the head- waters of the Niobrara River rise and wend their way toward their final destination, the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn creek, or river, is east of south. It is one of the few streams in this part suitable for mill purposes, and possesses many excel- lent mill site3 along its course. The valley of this stream averages about eight miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. It is thickly settled by Ger- mans for over 200 miles of its length from its junction with the Platte River. The stream abounds in native fish, as well as a great variety of "fancy brands" from the East — a car load of which were accidently emptied into the water at the bridge, while en route to be placed in the lakes and streams of California, during the spring of 1873. Wild turkeys on the plains, and among the low hills, along with deer and antelope, afford sport and excitement for the hunter. The river swarms with ducks and geese at certain seasons of the year, that come here to nest and feed. The natural thrift of the Settlers is manifested in his well-con- ducted farms, comfortable houses, sur- rounded by growing orchards and well- tilled gardens. There is no pleasanter val- ley in Nebraska than this, or one where the traveler will find a better field for ob- serving the rapid growth and great natural resources of the Northwest ; and should he choose to pass a week or more in hunting and fishing, he will find ample sport and a home with almost any of the settlers. CROFUTT S NEW OYEBLAND TOURIST 27 Waterloo — two miles from Elk- horn, is a small side-track station where passenger trains seldom stop. It has a flouring mill, store, school house, and some neat little cottages of well-to-do farmers. Valley —is 4 3-10 miles further^ and shows a marked improvement within the last few years ; there are a score of new buildings in sight ; elevation, 1,- 147 feet. The curious who wish to note the elevation— station by station— are referred to the " Time Tables " at back of the book, where the figures will be found for each station on the whole line of road. Omaha & Republican Valley Branch-leads off southwesterly from Valley, and is completed to Stroms- burgh, 90 miles distant. The road crosses the Platte River on a pile bridge 2,200 feet long, enters Satmders county,crosses the river bot- tom, and reaches Clear Creek, the first station from Yalley, seven miles distant. Passing on over a rolling prairie, five miles further, we come to Mead — This is a small place, com- posed of thrifty farmers. Wahoo— seven miles further, is the county seat of Saunders county. It is situated on a broad plateau, in the midst of a farming country, where they raise 60 bushels of corn, 50 bushels of oats, and 25 bushels of wheat to the acre, and other crops in proportion. There are three flouring mills in the town. The court house, school and other buildings are very good. Near the town is located one of the finest fair grounds and race tracks in the State. The Wahoo house is the prin- cipal hotel. Leaving Wahoo, the face of the coun- try becomes more rolling, and after crossing Wahoo Creek and making a run of eight miles, we reach Weston, still young, but a prosperous little place, from which it is eleven miles to Valparaiso— another small place of four stores, a hotel and school house, situated on Oak Creek, on which is some very fine land, as well as large groves of oak. Brainard— comes next, thirteen miles from Valparaiso, after rolling over nu- merous cuts and rough country. Ten miles more, and we arrive at David City— county seat of Butler county. Population about 300. There are four churches and several schools. The Saunders house is the principal hotel. From David City it Is ten miles to Risings, seven to Shelby, seven to Osceola and five to Stromsburg. The Liincoln Branch— leads off from Valparaiso, nine miles to Raymond and ten miles to Lincoln, the Capital of the State. Mr. S. H. H. Clark, Gen. Manager of . the Union Pacific, is President of both of the above named roads, and it is understood they are owned by the Union Pacific parties, under whose management they are con- ducted. We will now return to Valley, and proceed westward. From Valley the Bluffs on the south side of the Platte River can be seen in the distance, but a few miles away, in a southwesterly direction. Soon after leaving the station we catch the first glimpse of the Platte River, on our left. Six miles further over the broad plain brings us to Mercer— an unimportant station^ from which it is five miles to Fremont— the county seat of Dodge county, situated about three miles north of the Platte River, and contains a population of about 3,500. The regu- lar passenger trains on the "Over- land" route stop here 20 minutes for dinner, both from the east and west. The public buildings include a jail and court-house, seven churches, and some fine school houses. -Also a fine opera house. Ten years ago we said : "It was a thriving place in the midst of a beautiful country." Now it is a city of no mean pretentions. Within the past ten years there has been built nearly 1,000 dwelling houses, with stores of all kinds in proportion. Fremont supports several newspa- pers and hotels, and is the shipping point for a large amount of grain, hay and live-stock raised in the country to the northward. Tne Sioux City & Pacific Railroad connects here with the Union Pacific and runs through to Missouri Valley Junction, Iowa, where it connects with the Chicago & Northwestern Railway. 28 PACIFIC COA^T GUIDE. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 29 It is claimed this route is 33 miles shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we do not know of any through travel ever going by this line, and judge the local travel to be its sole support. The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- road to the northward is completed to Norfolk, 80 miles, and trains are run- ning regularly. This road runs through a very rich and well cultivated country, where wheat yields as high as 30 bushels to the acre. Fremont is connected with the south side of the Platte by a wagon bridge that cost over $50,000. The Platte Riveb — We are now going up the Platte, and for many miles we shall pass closely along the north bank ; at other times, the course of the river can only be traced by the timber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features, skirted in places with low abrupt hills, which here, in this level country, rise to the dignity of "bluffs." It would never do to omit a description of this famous stream, up the banks of which so many - ^ emigrants toiled in the '2^^ " Whoa, haw " times, from 1850 to the time when the railroad superseded the "prai- rie schooner." How many blows from the ox-whip have fallen on the sides of the pa- tient oxen as they toiled along, : hauling the ponderous wag- ons of the freighters, or the ; lighter vehicles of the emi- r grant ! How often the sharp ring of the " popper " aroused the timid hare or graceful antelope, and frightened them away from their meal of waving grass ! How many tremendous, jaw -breaking oaths fell from the lips of the "bull-whackers" during that period, we will not even guess at; but pious divines tell us that there is a Statisti- cian wno has kept a record of all such expletives; to that authority we refer our readers who are fond of fig- ures. Once in a while, too, the traveler will catch a glimpse of a lone grave, marked by a rude head-board, on these plains ; and with the time and skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which it is decorated, will learn that it marks the last resting-place of some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave it ; or, per- chance, will learn that the tenant of this rentless house fell while defending his wife and children from the savage Indians, who attacked the train in the gray dawn ot darker night. There is a sad, brief his- tory connected with each told to the passer- by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly b}' the broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them that they ever neglected a comrade. The sick were tenderly nursed, the dead decently buried, and their graves marked by men who had shared with them the perils of the trip. Those were days, and these plains the place that tried men's mettle ; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to all HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. 30 crofutt's new overlaxd tourist others who ventured to cross the "vast desert," which stretched its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires. Brave, cool and wary as the sav- age, with his unerring rifle on his arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he migM encounter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an invaluable aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter foe. This type of people is fast passing away. The change wrought within the last few years has robbed the plains of its most attractive feature, to those who are far away from the scene — the emigrant train. Once, the south bank of the Platte was one broad thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of the emigrants, with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of the same river, in almost full view of the "old emigrant load," the cars are bearing the freight and passengers rapidly west ward, while ihe oxen that used to toil so wearily along this route, have been trans- formed into ''western veal" to tickle the palates of those passengers, or else, like Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to *'move on" to some new fields of labor. To give some idea of the great amount of freighting done on these plains we pre- sent a few figures, which were taken from the books of freighting films in Atchison, Kansas. In 1865, this place was the prin- cipal point on the Missouri River, from which freight was forwarded to the Great West, including Colorado, Utah, Montana, &c. There were loaded at this place, 4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 29,720 oxen. To control and drive these trains, an army of 5,610 men was em- ployed. The freight taken by ihese trains amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these authenticated accounts, the estimated busi- ness of the other shipping points, and the amount is somewhat astounding. Compe- tent authority estimated the amount of freights shipped during that season from Kansas City, Leavenworth, St. Joe, Omaha and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not more than was shipped from Atchison, with a corresponding number of men, wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these estimates to be correct, we have this result : During 1865, there were employed in this business, 8,960 wagons, 14,620 mules, 59,- 440 cattle, and 1 1 ,220 men, who moved to its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 289,300 was invested in teams and wagons^ alone. But to return to the river, and leave facts and figures for something more interesting. "But," says the reader, "Ain't the Platte River a fact?" Not much, for at times, after you pass above Julesburg, there is more fancy than fact in the streams. In 1863, teamsters were obliged to excavate pits in the sand of the river-bed before they could find water enough to water their stock. Again, although the main stream looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many places it looks broad and deep ; try it, and you will find that your feet touch the treacherous sand ere your instep is under water; another place, the water appears to be rippling along over a smooth bottom, close to the surface ; try that, and in you go, over your head in water, thick with yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte when you examine it in this manner. The channel is continually shifting, caused by the vast quantities of sand which are con- tinually tioating down its muddy tide. The sand is very treacherous, too, and woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross this stream before he has become acquaint- ed with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced to the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous task. Iri crossing the river in early times, should the wagons come to a stop, down they sank in the yielding quicksand, until they were so firmly imbedded that it required more than double the original force to pull them out; and often they must be unloaded, to prevent the united teams from puiling them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from the sandy bed. The stream is generally very shallow during the fall and winter ; in many places no more than six or eight inches in depth, over the whole width of the stream. Nu- merous small islands, and some quite large, are seen while passing along, which will be noticed in their proper place. The Platte River has not done much for navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the waters of a vast scope of country, thereby rendering the immense valleys fertile; many thousand acres of which, during the past few years, have been taken up and successfully cultivated. The average width of the river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 31 junction o? the North and South Forks, is not far from three-fourths of a mile ; its average depth is six inches. In the months of September and October the river is at its lowest stage. The lands lying along this river are a portion of the land granted to the Union Pacific railroad, and the company are offering liberal terms and great inducements to settlers. Much of the land is as fine agricultural and grazing land as can be found in any section of the Northwest. Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate liiese plains, as some are inclined to think is the case, there is plenty of fall in either fork, or in the main river, for the purpose, and during the months when irrigation is required, there is plenty of water for that purpose, coming from the melting snow on the mountains. Ditches could be led from either stream and over the plains at little expense. Many, however, claim that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessaiy. From Omaha to the Platte River, the course of the road is southerly, until it nears the river, when it turns to the west, forming, as it were, an immense elbow. Thence along the 'valley, following the river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight southerly depression df its westerly course ; but from thence to the North Platte it re- covers the lost ground, and at this point is nearly due west from Fremont, the first point where the road reaches the river, That is as far as we will trace the course of the road at present. The first view of the Platte Valley is im- pressive, and should the traveler chance to behold it for the first time in the spring or early summer, it is then very beautiful ; should he behold it for the first time, when the heat of the summer's sun has parched the plains, it may not seem] inviting ; its beauty may be gone, but its majestic grand- eur still remains. The eye almost tires in searching for the boundary of this vast ex- panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- tain peak in the distance, as proof that the horizon is not the girdle that en- circles this valley. When one gazes on mountain peaks and diMnal gorges, on foaming cataracts and mountain torrents, the mind is filled with awe and wonder, perhaps fear of Him who hath created these grand and sublime won- ders. On the other hand, these lovely plains and smiling valleys— clothed In verdure and decked with flowers— fill the laind with love and veneration for their Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- sion of a joy and beauty which shall last forever. Returning to Fremont— and the railroad — ^we proceed seven miles to Ames — formerly called Ketchum — only a side track. Near this station, and at other places along the road, the traveler will notice fields fenced with a tine willow hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- ly. Eight miles further we reach ^K^ortli Bend — which is situated near the river bank, and surrounded by a fine agricultural country, where luxuriant crops of corn give evidence of the fertility of the soil. The place has materially im- proved within the last few years and now has some fine stores, two hotels, a grain elevator, and about 75 dwellings and places of business, and a population of about 350. Young cottonwood groves have been set out in many places— good fences built, and altogether the town has a pro- gressive appearance. Leaving the station, for a few miles the railroad track is laid nearer the river's bank than at any point between Fremont and North Platte. Seven miles from here we arrive at llogeris — a new station, and appar- ently one of promise — 7 4-10 miles further is Schnyler-^the comity seat of Colfax county, containing 1,000 inhabitants, and rapidly improving. It has five churches, two very good hotels, with court- house, jail, school-houses, many stores, a grain elevator, and several small manu- factories. The bridge over the Platte River, two miles south, centres at this town a large amount of business from the south side of the river. From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to Benton— formerly called Cooper; later, Richland— a small side-track station, from which it is eight miles to Oolnnibni§( — the county seat of Platte county, a substantial growing city, which contains about 2,500 inhabitants, has two banks, six churches, several schools, good hotels, and two weekly newspapers, — the Platte Journal and the Era. The Ham- mond is the principal hotel. Columbus— from its location in the midst of the finest agricultural lands in the Platte Valley, with the rich valley of the Loup on the north — has advantages that will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabitants. 32 crofutt's new overland tourist George Francis Train called Columbus the geographical center of the United States, and advocated the removal of the National Capitol to this place. We have very little doubt, should George ever be elected President, he will carry out the idea, when we shall behold the Capital of the Union located on these broad plains— but we shall not buy corner lots on the strength of the removal. In July and August, 1867, Columbus was a busy place, and the end of the track. Over 10,000,00a lbs. of Government corn and other freight was re-shipped from here to Fort Laramie, and the military camps in the Powder River country. The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad reaches this place from the southward, and the Omaha, Niobrara & Black Hills Railroad leads off to the northward. See Annex No. 66. Soon after leaving Columbus we cross Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in the most substantial manner. This stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte City, and runs through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream, and its almost innumerable tributaries. These little streams water a section of country unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in abundance is found in the valley of the Loupe, consisting of deer, antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound in ducks and geese. From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to Dnncan— formerly called Jackson —surrounded by well cultivated fields. Passmg along, and just before reaching the next station, we cross a small stream called Silver Creek. From Duncan it is 10 1-10 miles to the station of Silver Creek— This section of coun- try has improved very rapidly during the last few years, and we notice many sub- stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- tion — many new buildings. To the northeast of this station is the old Pawnee Indian Resei-vation, but not visible from the cars It covered a tract of country 15x30 miles in area, most of which is the best of land. About 2,000 acres are under cultivation. The tribe, num- bering about 2,000, were removed to the In- dian Territory in 1878 by the Government and the lands sold at auction. Again we speed westward, six miles to Havens — from which it is 5 3-10 miles to Clark 'is— a small station named in honor of the Gen. Manager of the road. The surrounding country is remark- ably rich in the chief wrealtn of a nation —agriculture, and has made rapid pro- gress. Of 1 jite years, several new stores, a church, school house and many dwel- lings 'have been erected, indicating permanent prosperity. From Clark's it is 5 6-10 miles to Thummel— and 5 6-10 miles more to Central City— formerlyLone Tree, the county seat of Merrick county. It contains a population of about 900, and is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The ''old emigrant road" from Omaha to Colorado crosses the river opposite this point, at the old "Shinn's Ferry." The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, call the place "Central City," in anticipa-. tion of the early completion of the Ne- braska Central railroad to this place. Cottonwood trees have been planted by many of the settlers about their homes, which present a cheerful and homelike ap- pearance. Passengers should notice the railroad track — for 40 miles it is constructed as straight as it is possible to build a road. When the sun is low in the horizon, at certain seasons, the view is very beau- tiful. Rolling along 3 4-10 miles, and we arrive at Paddock— seven miles more, to Chapman 's— a small place, compris- ing a few buildings, near the station, but the country around about is a broad prai- rie, and nearly all improved and settled by thrifty farmers. From Chapman, we continue wests 5-10 miles to liOekwood— a small side-track station. Six miles further and we are at our supper, station, Orand Island— the county seat of Hall county, which contains a population of about 1,500. It is provided with the usual county buildings, several banks, churches of various denominations, good schools, several hotels, many stores, some very pretty private rjesidences, and two weekly newspapers, grain elevators and one of the largest steam flouring mills in the State. Gran"H Island is a regular eating station, where trains going west stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East have the AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. DEVIL*S SLIDE, WBBSR CANYON, UTAH. same length of time for breakfast. The eating-house is on the right or north side of the track, in a large, new building, and the meals served are very good. It is claimed that this town will become a great railroad center— in proof of which we notice the completion of the St. Joseph & Denver City Eailroad to this place— from the south— in 1879, and the com- pletion of the Grand Island & St. Paul branch of the Union Pacific to St. Paul —22 miles northward— up the Loupe ForkBiver. The Union Pacific Ey. Co. have located here machine and repair shops, round-house, etc., being the end of the first power division west of Omaha. This station was named after Grand Is- land in the Platte River, two miles distant, one of the largest in the river, being about Chinese Cheap Labor— "Work for nothing and board yourself '—from the inhabitants of your neighbor's hen-roost. bO miles in length bv four in width. The Island is well woodea — cottonwood princi- pally, ana, some years after completion of the railroad was a government reservation. When the road was first built to Grand Island, buffalo were quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the westward. In the spring, these animala were wont to cross the Platte, from the Ar- kansas and Republican valleys, where they had wintered, to the northern country, re- turning again, sleek and fat, late in the fall; but since the country has become settled, few, if any, have been seen. In 1860, immense numbers were on these plains on the south side of the Platte, near Fort Kearny, the herds being so large that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing the road. At It is said that in San Francisco the people can drink, and carry more without staggering, than ia any city of the world. 34 crofutt's new overland tourist Fort Keamy, in 1859 and 1860, an order was issued forbidding the soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground. Proceeding westward 7 .7-10 miles, we reach Alda — a small station just east of Wood River. • After crossing the river, the road follows along near the west bank for many miles, through a thickly settled country, the farms in summer being covered with lux- uriant crops of wheat, oats and corn. Wood River rises in the bluffs, and runs south- east until its waters unite with those of the Platte. Along the whole length of the stream and its many tributaries, the land for agricultural purposes is surpassed by none in the Northwest, and we might say in the world. The banks of the river and tributaries are well wooded, the streams abound in fish and wild-fowl, and the country adjacent is well supplied with game, deer, antelope, turkeys, chickens, rabbits, etc., forming a fine field for the sportsman. This valley was one of the earliest settled in Central Nebraska, the hardy pioneers tak- ing up their lands when the savage Indians held possession of this, their favorite hunt- ing-ground. Many times the settlers were driven from their homes by the In- dians, suffering fearfully in loss of life and property, but as often returned again, and again, until they succeeded in secur- ing a firm foothold. To-day the evidences of the struggle can be seen in the low, strong cabins, covered on top with turf, and the walls loop-holed, and enclosed with *he same material, which guards the roofs from the fire-brands, bullets and ar- rows of the warriors. Fr^ - ^ Ida, it is 8 1-10 miles to \«^«iot& jL»wer — a small station. Here can be seen one of the old-fashioned speci- mens of plains station-men, in the person of Charley Davis. He keeps an eating- house and saloon, where freight and emi- grant trains often stop for meals. Char- ley's specialty is the "Jerusalem Pickle." A good "square meal" is served for 50 cents. Passing on 7 5-10 miles, we reach IShelton— a side-track, where a flour- ing mill, store, and a few dwelling houses constitute the place. To the westward 5 8-10 miles, is Oibbon — It is situated in the midst of u fine farming country, was once the coun- iy seat of Burralo county, and is a thriving place, with a population of about 100. Proceeding, it is 8 4-10 miles to Bada — formerly Kearny — later, Shelby — a station of little account. Westward again four miles, and we reach a place of some importance, Kearny Jonction— the county seat of Buffalo county— named for the old fort of that name on the south side of the river, nearly opposite. In 1873, the first few buildings were € acted here, since which time the place has improved wonderfully. It now con- tains a population of over 1,200, with two weekly papers. The citizens, as a class, are enterpris- ing, law-abiding representatives from nearly every State m America, with a few from foreign countries. Here the B. & M. R. R. in Neb. comes in from the south— crossing the Platte River— two miles distant— and forms a junction with the Union Pacific. This road runs through a rich, well-settled agricultural country. The local business coming in on the B. & M. and the Union Pacific makes this place one of unusual activity and business promise. The town contains the usual county buildings, which are built of brick, has two banks, six fine churches, two schools, many stores of all kinds, several hotels— the Atkins and the Grand Central are the principal— and some fine private residences. The country around the town is not as good agricultural land as we have seen further to the eastward, yet some good crops of grain are raised, and large quanti- ties ai-e hauled here, to be shipped to the East, West and South. From this point west, the country is oc- cupied principally by the stock men. Stages leave here' daily, except Sunday, for the Republican Valley, and all interme- diate points, carrying the U. S. mail to Franklin, Bloomington, Republican City, Oileans and Melrose, where connections are made with stages for ev«i*y town in the Upper Republican Valley and Northern Kansas. Let us take a look at the grounds on which stood old Fort Kearny — This post was first established at Fort Childs, Indian Terri- tory, in 1848, by volunteers of the Mexican war — changed to Fort Kearny in March, 1849. In 1858 the post was re-built by the late Brevet-Colonel Charles May, 3d Dra- *» '5;:: -.' ^^«- SUTTEE'S MILL-RACE— WHERE GOLD Wi RST DISCOVKKKD IN CALIFORNIA. • • . <;• AND PACIFIC COAST GrUIDE. 35 gooHS. It is situated five miles south of Kearny station, and nine miles via Burlington & Missouri railroad from Kearny junction, on the south bank of the Platte, which is at this point three miles wide, and full of small islands. The fort is in latitude 40 deg. 33 min., longi- tude 99 deg. 6 min. In the fall of 1872, all the Gov- ernment buildings, worth moving, were removed to North Platte and Sidney, on the Union Pacific Eail- way, 291 and 412 miles, respect- ively, west from Omaha, and the post abandoned. The remains of the dead bodies of soldiers, buried at Kearny, were taken up and re- intered in the National Cemetery, at Fort McPherson. Two miles above the Fort, on the south bank, is Kearny City, in the early days more commonly called *'Dobey Town." This was once a great point with the old Overland Stage Company, and at that time contained about five hundred in- habitants, the greater portion of which left upon the abandonment of the line and the south-side route of travel. But we are told that settlers are coming in fast, and it will soon regain its "old time" figu- res. Returning to Kearny Junction, 5 9-10 miles brings us to Stevenson— a side-track, — unim- portant. Again, four miles west is Odessa— another small station j— from which it is 6 3-10 miles to V^lm Creek Station— a small §lace of several stores and a few wellings. Soon after leaving the station, we cross Elm Creek, a small, deep, and quite lengthy stream. It was well wooded before the advent of the rail- road, the timber consisting almost entirely of red elm, rarely found else- where in this part of the country. From Elm Creek station it is nine miles to Overton— This is another small station of a few buildings. It is situ- ated on a branch of Elm Creek. The Platte Valley along here, and for the fifty miles over which we have just passed, is very broad; nearly all the best land has been taken up, or pur- 3 To be weU armed and ready for a fight, is "to be heeled." The Indians on the plains call the locomotiyes and cars " bad medicine wagons." S6 CROFUTT'S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST chased, but only a small portion is under cultivation. Passing on, 4 miles brings us to JTosselyn — a side-track station, named after the paymaster of the road, a much more important person to the employes than the station, as trains do not always stop here, but roll on five miles further to Plum Creek— the county seat of Dawson county. It contains a population of about 800, has a fine, brick court-house, two churches, a school-house, several ho- tels, four stores, a bridge across the Platte, to the south, and a weekly newspaper— the Pioneer. The town was named after an old stage station and military camp, situ- ated on the south side of the river, on Plum Creek, a small stream which heads in very rugged blufls southwest of the old station, aud empties its waters into the Platte— opposite Plum Creek station on the rail- road. This old station was the nearest point on the " old emigrant road " to tho Republi- can River, the heart of the grea Indian rendezvous, and their supposed secure stronghold, being but about 18 miles away. Around the old Plum Creek station many of the most fearful massacres which oc- curred during the earliest emigration were perpetrated by the Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapahoe Indians. The jluffs here come very close to th^ river, afi'ording the savages an excellent opportunity for surprising a train, and, being ver;^^ abrupt and cut up with gulches and canons, afi'ording them hiding-places, from which they swooped down upon the luckless emigrant, often massacring the larger portion of the party. Returning to the railroad, 7 8-10 miles brings us to Coyote — an unimportant station. Here the bottoms are very wide, having increased in width for many miles. In early days, all along the river, for a distance of 50 mjles, the islands and low- lands were covered with cottonwood tim- ber, but since the completion of the rail- road, the greater portion have been cut down and removed by the settlers. Where, in 1860, were huge " cotton woods, now are wheat-fields, or young cottonwoods and willows. We are now in a section of country where la'ge quantities of hay are put up annually for shipment, Passing on 6 miles, we reach Cozad — About one-fourth mile be- fore reaching this station, on the right, we cross the 100th meridian, marked by a sign, which reads, in large letters *' 100th Me- ridian." This place was named by a gentleman from the East, who purchased 40,000 acres of land from the railroad company here, and laid out a town. It has not been a " huge success " as a speculation, so far, but by a thorough system of irrigation could be made very productive. There are a few good buildings at and near the sta- tion, and some herds of cattle and sheep rangenear by; in fact, this section of coun- try is more adapted to stock-raising than it is for agricultural purposes. The high bluflfs to the south and west — our road here runs nearly north — looming up in the distance, are on the south side of the Platte River, 25 miles distant From Cozad, it is five miles to "Willow Island— population 100 — named from an island in the Platte River, near by, the second in size in that river. For some distance before reaching this station, large herds of cattle and sheep can be seen, particularly on the opposite side ot the river, where can also be seen some of the old adobe ranches of the days when the "overland stage*' was the fastest method of crossing these plains. We are now beyond the agricultural sec- tion, and are entering the great grazing re- gion of the West For some years after the completion of the road the traveler could see, near this place, and in fact for many miles beyond North Platte, some of the old log houses of the early settlers, with their sides pierced with loop-holes and walled up with turf, the roofs being covered with the same ma- terial, which reminds one of the savage against whom these precautions were . taken. In fact, from here up the river, the traveler will doubtless observe many of the rude forts along the roadside as well as at the stations. The deserted ranches to be met with along the " old emigrant road," on the south side of the river, are fortified in the same manner. The fort was gener- ally built of logs, covered on top and walled on the side in the manner described. They are pierced with loop-holes on all sides, and afforded a safe protection against the Indians. They generally stood about fifty yards from the dwelling, from which an underground passage led to the fort When attacked, the settlers would retreat to their fortification where they would fight it out; and until the Indians got "ed- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 37 ucated," many a "red brother" would get ^a shot — to him unawares — which would send him to his " Happy Hunting-ground." As we pass along to the next station, 10 3-10 miles, the passenger will note that our direction is nearly north, with the bottom lands getting narrower as we proceed. Warren — This is simply a side-track, where trains seldom stop. The grass here is short and thick on the upland, and coarse and tall on the bottoms. Sand-hills close in on the right, and the river on our left, as we proceed eight miles further to Brady Island— This station derives its name from an island in the Platte River, which is of considerable size. In early times many wandering bands of In- dians were wont to cross the river at this point, and for months at a time camp on the Island or on the river banks. H-endrey— is a side-track 4 9-10 miles further, and 4 2-10 miles from Man: ir ell — formerly McPherson Station. It is five miles from the Platte River and seven miles from old "Cot- tonwood Springs" on the opposite side of the river, with which it is connected by a bridge, a great improvement on the old ford. The country round about is fertile, with some timber on the river bot- toms. A large amount of fine mead- ow land adjoins the station, from which are cut thousands of tons of hay. FoKT McPhekso>j— is situated on the south side of the Platte River, near Cottonwood Springs. The post was established February 20, 1866, by Major S. W. O'Brien, of the 7th Iowa Cavalry. It was originally known as "Cantonment McKeon," and also as " Cottonwood Springs," At the close of the war, when the regular army gradually took the place of the vol- DALB CREEK BRIDGE, NEAR SHERMAN, ON THE BLACK HILLS OF WYOMING. 38 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST unteers who had been stationed on ihe frontier during the rebellion, the names of many of the forts were changed, and thev •were re-named in memory ot' those gal- lant officers who gave their lives in de- fense of their country. Fort McPherson was named after Major-General James B. McPherson, who was killed in the battle before Atlanta, Georgia, July, 32d, 1864. Supplies are received via McPherson Sta- tion.' Located in latitude 41 deg., longi- tude 100 deg. 30 min. The next station is 7 7-10 miles further, named Oannett — a side-track — nearly five miles from where the trains cross the long trestle bridge over the North Platte River — This river rises in the mountains of Colorado, in ihe Norih Park. Its course is to the northeast from Its source for several hundred miles, when it bends around to the southeast. We shall cross it again at Fort Steele, 403 miles fur- ther west. The general characteristics of the stream are similar to tho^e of the South Pfatte. For 100 miles up this river the " bottom lands " are from 2 to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though perhaps requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this valley, and bauds of wild horses at one time were numerous. Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction — near where the Laramie River unites with this stream. On the west bank of the river, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow, rendered famous by General Harney, wlio gained a decisive victory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago. About one mile beyond the bridge and 6 8-10 miles from Gannett is situated Nortli Platte City— the county seat of Lincoln county. Elevation, 2,789 feet; distance from Omaha, 291 miles. Here is the end of the Eastern and the commencement of the Moun- tain Division. For altitude of each station see " Time Table " No. 2 at the end of the Book. This is a regular eating station for the trains on the •* Denver Short Line." Breakfast go- ing west ; supper coming east. The road was finished to this place, No- vember, 1866. Here the company have a round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and repair shop, all of stone. In these shops are employed — regularly — 76 men, besides those engaged in the offices and yard. The Railroad House is the principal hotel. North Platte has improved very rapidly during the last three years, and contains about 2,000 population. Churches, hotels, county buildings, and scores of dwelliags have been built, or are in course of erection. A new bridge has been completed across the South Platte River. Two weekly papers are publislied here, and several others projected. Settlers' houses, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and hoi ses are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this place, as a stock range and shipping puint, exceed all others on the line of road. . Messrs. Keiih, Barton, and Dillon, citi- zens of North Platte City, have a herd of 15,000 head "of caitle— on the North Platte above the City — and there are many other parties living* at or near this city, who own herds of from 500 to 5,000 head. In this country a man that only owns 500 head, is counted a "poor shoat " — one to be pitied. North Platte, in its palmiest days, boasted a population of over 3,000, which was reduced in a few months after th6 road extended, to as many hundreds. Until the road was finished to Julesburg, which was accomplished in June, 186 T, all freight for the West was shipped from thispoint; then the town was, in the height of its pros- perity; then the gamblers, the roughs and scallawags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their presence, lived in clover — for there were hard-working, fool- ish men enough in the town to aftbrd them an easy living. When the town be- gan to decline, these leaches followed up the road, cursing with their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long-sufi'ering community arose in their own defense, binding themselves together, a la vigilantes^ and, for want of a legal tribunal, took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first projec- tion high and strong enough to sustain their worthless carcasses. But many " moved on," and we shall hear of them again many times before we are through. From North Platte our route is due west. It is 8 4-10 miles to Xicliol«— an unimportant side- track. NorthPlatte city is in plain sight —as is also the North and South Platte Rivers— and the Valleys of the same. From Nichols it is 8 '5-10 miles to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 39 O'Fallon's Station— situated in the sand hills, where the bluffs on the right come close to the river. On the south side of the river are the famous OTallon's Bluffs, a series of sandhills interspersed with ravines and gulches which come close to the river's bank, forming abrupt bluffs, which turned the emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand hills, a distance of eight miles, thro' loose yielding sand, devoid of vegetation. Here as well as at all points where the bluffs come near the river, the emi- grants suffered severely, at times, from the attacks of the Indians. Op- posite, and extending above this point is a large island in the river, once a noted camping ground of the Indians. O'Fallon's Bluffs are the first of a se- ries of sand hills, which extend north and south for several hundred miles. At this point the valley is much nar- rower than that thro' which we have just passed. Here we first enter the "alkali belt," which extends from this poin,t to Julesburg— about 70 miles. The soil and water are strongly im- pregnated with alkaline substances. The country on both sides of the river is occupied exclusively for graz- ing purposes. The first volume of this book instructed passengers to keep their "eye peeled" for buffalo, as we are now getting into the buffalo range. During the spring of 1873-74 immense numbers roamed over this country, along the road for 100 miles westward, but few, if any, have been seen since that time. Passing along up the nar- row bottom, with the bluffs along our right, 7 3-10 miles brings us to a side- track, called Dexter — Trains seldom stop here, and 7 2-10- miles further we reach Alkali— on an alkali bottom. This station is directly opposite the old stage station of that name on the south side of the river. After leaving the sta- tion the road passes thro' the sand- bluffs, which here run close to the riv- er's bank. A series of cuts and fills, extending for many miles, brings us to the bottom land again. From Alkali, it is 9 6-10 miles to Roscoe — another side-track sta- tion. Passing along over a narrow bottom,with sand bluff cuttings, at in- tervals, 9 6-10 miles we come to Ogalalla— the county seat of Keith ' county. The settlers here are all more or less engaged in stock-raising. It is the river crossing for large droves of cattle en route for the Indian reser-j vation. Fort Laramie and the Black Hills country, to the northward. Near this station, several years ago, at a point where the road makes a short curve and crosses the mouth of a ra- vine, the Indians attempted to wreck a passenger train, by suddenly mass- ing their ponies on the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or more of ponies were killed, without damaging the train, while the men used their "pistols" and guns pretty freely on the Indians, who were apparently greatly 8urprised,eind who now called the locomotive "Smoke wagon— big chief ! Ugh ! ! no good !" Passing on 1 6-10 miles we pass Bosler — a side-track from which it is 8 miles to Brale— near is the old California Crossing, where the emigrants cross- ed the river when striking for the North Platte River andFortLaramie, to take the South Pass route over- land. On the south side of the river, opposite in plain view, is the old ranche and trading post of the noted Indian trader and Peace Commission- er— Beauve— now deserted. Passing along over cuts and fills, 9 7-10 miles, we reach Big Springs— The station derives its name from a large spring, the first found on the road, which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station, on the right hand side of the road, and in plain view from the cars. The water is excellent, and will be found the best along this road. It was at this station where the "Blue Spring's robbery" took place, Sept. 18th 1877. A party of twelve masked men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the meUj cut the telegraph wires, when the western train arrived took pos- session of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of "hands up". The rob- bers secured $65,000 from the express car, ^1,300 and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted theirhorses and allowed the train to proceed. No person was killed or injured, but all were very badly frightened. Imme-. diately after the robbery, a reward of 40 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND GUIDE $10,000 was offered for the arrest of the perpetrators, and several have been caught and have paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one- half of the money has been recovered. After leaving this station.we pass by a series of cuts and fills, and another range of bluffs, cut up by narrow ra- vines and gorges. At points, the road runs so near the river bank, that the water seems to be right under the cars. But we emerge again after 7 8-10 miles and come to Uarton — a small signal station of very little importance, from which it is 2 7-10 miles to llenver Junction— Here the new ** Omaha & Denver Short Line " branches off to the left. In 1873-4, a railroad bed was graded up the north side of the Platte river, in the interest of the U. P. Ey. Co., but for some reason the ties and iron •were not laid until the summer of 1881. On November 6th of that year the first through passenger trains commenc- ed making regular trips. The statioi^s and distances are as follows; MIIiES. Denver June, to Sedgwick 14.8 Sedgewick to Crook 15.6 Crook to Iliff 15.5 Iliff to Sterling, (Dinner Station.) 11.8 Stelringto Buffalo 12.7 Buffalo to Snyder 16.9 Snyder to Deuel 12.9 Deuel to Orchard 17.6 Orchard to Hardin 17,6 Hardin to Lasalle 15.4 Fom Denver Junction to LaSalle, to con- nect with Cheyenne Div. U. P. By., 150.8 From LaSalle to Denver 46.4 From Denver Junction to Denver 197.2 " Omaha to North Platte .291. ■" North Platte to Denver Junction 80.4. Omaha to Denver, via "Short Line," 568.6 Omaha to Denver, via Cheyenne 622. Difference in favor of „Short Line, " 53. The Platte River, west of North Platte city, is called the South Fork fOt the Platte. We have ascended it al- jnost on its banks, over 350 miles, and shall now leave it, as the "Overland Route" turns to the right, and north- west, and follow up the narrow valley of Lodge Pole Creek, to Egbert, about 100 miles distant. The South Fork of the Platte, up which the "Short Line" is built, rises in the South Park of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, about 280 miles distant. The valley extends- from the Junction up the river about 217 miles, to where the river emerges from the mountains. The average width of the valley is about three miles, the soil of which, in places, is very rich, producing good crops with irrigation, large quantities of hay, and most excellent grazing. It now supports, with the adjoining uplands, vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses. We refer the reader, for full infor- mation in regard to Colorado,her min- eral, stock-raising, and varied re- sources, watering places, and scenic attractions, to Crofutfs Grip-Sack Guide of Colorado. Sold on all trains. From Denver Junct'n it is 6 miles to Wier— formerly Julesburgh, sta- tion. Elevation 3,394 feet. Until 1868, this was an important militaiy, freight, and passenger station, since when it declined to a simple way station. The Union Pacific was completed to this place the last of June, 1867, and all Government freight for the season was shipped to this point, to be reship- ped on wagons to the north and west. At that time Julesburgh had a pop- ulation of 4,000 ; now the town is al- most deserted. During the "lively times," Julesburgh was the roughest of all towns along the Union Pacific line. The roughs congregated there, and a day seldom passed but what they"had a man for breakfast." Gam- bling and dance houses constituted the greater portion of the town ; and it is said that morality and honesty clasped hands and departed. We have notlearned whether they have return- ed; and really we have our doubts about their ever having been there. Before the railroad, the last of Utah and California emigration that came up the Platte crossed opposite the station, and followed up the valley of Lodge Pole Creek to Cheyenne Pass. The old, old, town of Julesburgh, was situated on the south side of the Platte river nearly opposite this' sta- tion and was named for Jules Burgh who was brutally assasinated as will be related in Annex No. 10. Near this old town was the site of Fort Sedgwick— this post was es- tablished May 19. 1864, by the Third U. S. Volunters, and named after Maj. Gen'l John Sedgwick., Col. 4th Cav- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 41 airy, U. S. A., who was killed in battle at Spottsylvania C. H., Va., May 9tli, 1864. It is located in the northeast cor- ner of Colorado, on the south side of the Platte river, four miles distant, on the old emigrant and stage road to Cllorado, in plain view from the cars. Latitude 31 deg., longitude 102 deg. 30 min.— now abandoned. During the winter of '65-'66, most of the wood used at Julesburg and Fort Sedgwick, was hauled on wagons from Denver, at an expense of from $60 to $75 per cord, for transportation alone, and was sold to Government, by contract, at $105 per cord. The wood costinDenver about $20. Besides this the contractors were allowed by Government to put in what hard wood they could get at double price, or $210 a cord, many thought this to be a "pretty soft snap." The "hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 30 miles south of Denver, and cost no more for trans- portation than did the soft. From Wier it is 10 miles to Chappell — a small side-track where passenger trains seldom stop, and 9 1-10 further to liOilge Pole— another side-track. This valley is narrow, but with bluffs, and a great open prairie country to the northward, extending to the North Platte river, a distance of 30 miles, af- fords the finest grazing range, and large herds of cattle, and numerous bands of antelope can be seen while passing on up the valley. Colton— is a small station, 10 miles from Lodge Pole. It was named in hon- or of Francis Colton, Esq., a former general passenger agent of the road. From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to Sidney — named after the president of the road. This is a regular eating station, where trains stop 30 minutes, those from the East for breakfast, and from the West for supper. Sidney is the county seat of Cheyenne county, Neb., and within the last few years has improved in buildings, and increased in population, until it now contains about 1,500 people. The "Lockwood" the largest hotel, is situated a little to the west of the station from which start the daily stages for Deadwood in the Bl-ck 'Hills of Dakota. Dis- tance 267 miles. Black Hills Gold Mines— For many years anterior to the building of the Pacific Railway vague reporjbs were circulating among old plainsmen and miners, of rich gold deposits in the Black Hills and Big Horn country, but until Gen. Custer, with a military ex- pedition, penetrated to, and explored the region about Harney's Peak in '74, and reported gold abundant, the soil rich, the country well timbered, and most desirable, nothing definite was known. In '75 the gold-seekers began their pilgrimage to the "Hills," in '76 the numbers were greatly increase,but in '77 the great rush was at its height. These Hills lie between the 43d and 45th degrees of latitude, and the 103d and 105th parallels of longitude ; are about 100 miles long and 60 miles wide. Besides extensive and rich veins of gold and silver yielding quartz, there are found to be vast beds of coal, iron, copper, lead and mica. Placer mines aXQ also numerous, many of which are worked with profit. The country is well watered, the mountains covered with timber, while the valleys are very rich and productive agricultural lands. For grazing purposes the coun- try about and adjacent to the "Hills" is unequaled, and stock thrives the year around upon the native grass- es. The population of this region, at present, is not far from 20.000; the greater portion are engaged in quartz mining. The ores are worked prin- cipally by the stamp process, some of the largest mills in this country being located here. The mills now in opera- tion aggregate 1,192 — stamps, thun- dering away night and day, the yield of which, including the placer mines, for 1881 exceeded. $4,500,000. Dead- wood is the principal city, out of a half a hundred cities, towns, villages and prosperous mining settlements. Sidney is the chief out-fitting point for the "Hills," and freight in large quantities is shipped from here on wagons, and it is claimed this is the shortest and most comfortable route. Sidney has some good business blocks and private residences. The railroad company have a lO-stall round house, machine shop, a large freight ware- house and depot building. To learn all about Colorado, buy "Crofntt's Grip-Sack Guide." It is a complete Encyclope- dia of the State.— Sold on the trains. 42 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. The principal outfitting store at Sidney is owned by Mr. Chas. Moore, the pioneer ranchman of the old South Platte route ; but 'Charley' talks poor. Besides his big stock of goods, he has only about 5,000 head of cattle and sheep,— and by the way, Sidney is not much behind in the number of pros^ perous stock-men. Scores of her citi- zens own from 500 to 5,000 head, within range of the late "Cattle King," Iliff, to the south, on which graze 30,000 head. The Government has established a mill, tary post at this station, and erected exten- sive barracks and warehouses. The post is on the south side of the track, a little to the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently deceased, was an old pioneer, and the hero of the "Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, he made the most remarkable ride on record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage station on the south side of the Platte, when a very important Government despatch ar- rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his pony, he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- tant, where, on arriving, he met an impor- tant despatch from the Pacific; resting onli/ seven minutes^ and, without eating^ re- turned to Midway, making the "round trip " — 380 miles — in fourteen hours and forty-six minutes. The despatch reached Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine hours and forty minutes From Sidney it is 9 miles to Broiviisoii — Passenger trains do not stop. The station was named after Col. Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific from the first, and a long time their gen- eral ft-eight agent. The valley along here is very narrow, with high rocky bluffs on each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to Potter — Large quantities of wood and ties are usually stored here, which are ob- tained about 20 miles north of this point, on Lawrence Fork and Spring Canyon, tributaries of the North Platte River. Pot. ter, a though not a large place, is situated FINGER ROCK, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. ceofutt's new overland tourist 43 near a very large city, called Prairie Dog City — one of the If^rg- Cst cities on the whole line of the road. At this point, and for several miles up and down the valley, the dwellings of the prairie dogs frequently occur, but three miles west of the station they are found in large numbers, and there the great prairie dog city is situated. It occupies several hundred acres on each side of the road, where these sagacious little animals have taken land and established their dwellings without buying lots of the company. (We do not know whether Mr. Land-Commis- sioner, intends to eject them or not,) Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in the top, from a foot to a foot and a half high, raised by the dirt excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these animals can be seen scamper- ing for their houses; arrived there, they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at the train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead. It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- ing with the next dwelling, and so on through the settlement; but this is a mis- take, as in most cases a few buckets of water will drown out any one ot them. The animal is of a sandy-brown Qolor, and about the size of a large gray squirrel. In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. The prairie dog lives on grasses and roi^ts, and is generally fat ; and by maniy, espe- cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, the meat being sweet and tender, but rather greasy, unless thoroughly par- boiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town, where they may by chance, pick up an unwary straggler. But the dogs are not easily caught, for some one is always looking out for danger, and on the first intimation of trouble, the alarm is given, and away they all scamper fQyj,their holes. *V' CouRT-HousE Rock — About 40 miles due north from this station is the noted Court-House Rock, on the North Platte River. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up and down that stream. It has the appear- ance of a tremendous capitol building, seated on the apex of a pyramid. From the base of the spur of the blufls on which the white Court-House Rock is seated, to- the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000' feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- member the place and the many names,, carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft sand-stone of which it is composed. Chimney Rock— is about 25 miles up- the river from Court-House Rock. It is- about 500 feet high and has the appear- ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- stone column, rising directly from the plain. The elements have worn away the- bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. The next station is nine miles distant,, called l>ix — formerly Bennett — a side- track for the accommodation of stockmen residing near. The name of the station is in honor of Gen. Dix,. of New York. Passenger trains sel- dom stop, but roll on 9 2-10 miles further where they do stop, at Antelope — It is situated at the lower end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point is near the station, on the left. This station is in the center of what the plains-men call " the best grass country In the world," as well as one of the best points for antelope on the route. For article on stock-raising, see Annex No. 29. Six miles further and \v^ come to Adams— an unimportant side-track^ from which it is 5 9-10 miles to JBashnell — This is another unimpor- tant side-track, near the boundary line be- tween Nebraska and Wyoming Territoiy. Passenger trains do not stop, but pass onj/ ten miles further to . ^ Pine BlnfPs— where cattle-shipping^ is the principal business transacted at the station. During the building of the road, this, place was known as " Rock Ranche " — and a tough ranche it was. Considerable pitch pine wood was cut for the railroad in the bluffs, a few miles to the southward, from which the station derives its name. The bluffs are on the left hand side of the road^ and at this point are quite high and rocky,, extending very near the track. Fort Morgan — was established in May^ 1865, abandoned in May. 1868, and its gar- rison transferred to Laramie. It m about 60 miles north of this station, on the North Platte River, at the western base of what is known as Scott's Bluffs, Latitude 40 deg. 30 min. ; longitude 27 de^. Our course from this station is more to 44 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. the westward, for 5 6- 10 miles to Tracy — a small side-track, where pas- senger trains seldom stop. It is 5 6-10 miles further to £ g b e r t — anoth- er unimportant side- track. Near this point we leave Lodge Pole Creek, from which to the source of the stream in the Black Hills, about 40 miles away, the valley pre- sents the same general appearance until it reaches the base of the mountains. Bears, deer and wolves abound in the country around the source of the stream, and herds of antelope are scatter cd over the valley. At one time beavers were plenty in the creek, and a few of these interest ing animals are still to be found in the lower waters of the stream, near to its junction with the Platte. This valley was once a favorite* hunting-ground of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- sisted the attempts of the Government to re- move them to a reservation to the northward. Passing on up a dry ravine 6 3-10 miles, we come to Barns — another small side-track — and nothing else — which is 5 7-10 miles from Hillsdale— When the road was being constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a large amount of freight was re-shipped from here on wagons. Then, it was a busy place, now, onlv a water-tank and side- track. The station was named after a Mr. Hill, one of the engineering party who was killed near this place by the Indians while lie was engaged in locating the present site of the road. About 50 miles to the south is "Fre- mont's Orchard," on the South Platte Hiver, about 60 miles below Denver City, Colorado, and in that State. It was named after Col. J^■remont, who discovered the point in his exploring expedition. It consists of a large grove of cottonwood trees, mostly on the south side of the river. MONUMENT ROCK. BLACK HILLS, U.P.R.R. The river here makes an abrupt bend to the north, then another to the south, cut- ting its way through a high range of sand- hills—the third range from the Missouri River. Where the river forces its way through the bluffs, they are very high and abrupt on the south side. The two bends leave a long promontory of sand hills, the end of which is washed bv the waters. At a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on the bottom land reminds one of an old orchard, such as is often seen in the East- ern States. Near Fremont's Orchard is located the Green Colony, at Green City, which num- bers about 100. Passing on from Hillsdale up a ravine, which gradually becomes narrower as we ascend, with bluffs on either hand, 6 2-10 miles, we come to Atkins— a side-track. Passing on, our train gradually rises on to the table-land, and then, if the day be a fair one, ihe trav- eler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, directly ahead. On the right he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills of Wyoming, stretching their cold, dark ruggedness far away to the right, as far as CROFUTT S NEW OVKKLAND TOURIST 45 the eye can see ; but the bold, black line — the dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape and reality, but which now seems to bar our way as with a floomy impenetrable barrier, is the "Great lOcky Mountain Chain," the back-bone of the American continent, though bearing different names in the Southern hemi- sphere. The highest peak which can be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming above the general darkness, is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks of the continent. Awajr to the left rises Pike's Peak, its towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains which rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- orado's noted mountains, and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles distant. From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to Archer — situated on the high table- land, where the cars seldom stop — is eleven miles from Hillsdale ; and a little farther on, the cars pass through the f,r%t snow- shed on the Union Pacific road, emerging with Crow Creek Valley on the left. After passing through a series of cuts and fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- road can be seen on the left side, where it passes over the bluffs to the southeast. Directly ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed " Magic City of the Plains," 8 4-10 miles from the last sta- tion — Cheyenne— which is the capital of Wyoming, the largest town between Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains from the East and West stop here 30 min- utes, for dinner — and no better meals can be had on the road than at the Railroad House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles; from Ogden 516 miles— just AaZ/the length of the Union Pacific road; distance to Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is apparently level, though our table of elevations shows to the contrary. The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- tion, with an average loam deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with marine fossils in large quantities. The streets of the town are broad and laid out at right angles with the railroad. Schools and churches are as numerous as required, and society is more orderly and well regulated than in many western places of ^ even older establishment. The church ed/fices are the Presbyterian, Con- gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- lic, and several of other denominations. The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, a $70,000 hotel— the Inter-Ocean— many new blocks of buildings, among which are, an opera house, banks, and stores of all kinds, besides many fine private res- idences, also a grand lake or reservoir f<^ supplying the city with pure water, con- ducted by canal fi-om Crow Creek, from whence smaller branches run along the sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, trees and shrubbery, which will soon make the city a place of surpassing beauty. It also boasts of a race-course and some good "steppers." It has two daily news- papers, the Leader and the Sun, both, of which issue weeklies. Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- tories, amoiig which the item of saddles is an important one, as the saddle of the plains and most Spanish countries, is a different article altogether from the Eastern "hogskin." When seated in his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue nor injury to his animal. They are made for use — to save the animal's strength, as well as to give ease and security of seat to the rider. The best now in use is made with what is known as the "California tree." The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & Co., make these saddles a specialty, and fill orders from all over the western portion of the United States, Mexico and South America. The railroad companv's buildings are of stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 miles west. They consip* of a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine d repair shop, in which are employed 50 men. The freight office and depot buildings are of wood. The freight office was opened for business during the first part of November, 1867, at which time the road was completed to this station. No land is cultivated around Cheyenne, except a few small gardens around Crow Creek. The soil is good, and the hardiest kinds of vegetables and grains could be raised successfully with irrigation. Graz* ing is the main feature of the country. The Railroad House, before which all passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on the road, and has ample accommodations for 60 guests. The dining-room, which 46 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. everybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other game, all preserved and looking as natural as life; here, too, is a great variety of other interesting specimens. The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, Delmonico, on the European plan, Dyer's, Simmon's, and Metropolitan. Early Times — On the fourth day of July, 1867, there was one hovse in Cheyenne — ^no more. The first Mayor of Cheyenne was H. M. Hook, an old pioneer, elected August 10, 1867, who was afterwards drowned in Green River, while prospecting for new silver mines. In the spring of 1869, there were 6,000 inhabitants in the place and about the vi- cinity ; but as the road extended westward, the floating, tide-serving portion followed the road, leaving the more permanent set- tlers, who have put up substantial build- ings of brick and stone, which mark a thriving and steadily growing city. Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of the " roughs " and gambling hells, dance- houses, and wild orgies ; murders by night and day were rather the rule instead ot tne exception. This lasted until the business men and quiet citizens, tired of such doings, and suddenly an impromp- tu vigilance commit- tee appeared on the scene, and' several of the most desperate characters were found swinging from the end of a rope, from some convenient eleva- tion. Others, taking the hint, which in- dicated they would take a rope unless they mended their ways, quietly left the city. At present Cheyenne is orderly and well- governed. In the fall of 1869, Cheyenne suffered se- verely by a large con- flagration, which de- stroyed a considerable portion of the busi- ness part of the town, involving a loss of half-a-million dollars. The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, rebuilt, in many instances, with more durable material than before. GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. Fort D. A. Russell — This post was es- tablished July 31, 1837, by General Auger, and intended to accommodate sixteen com- panies. It is three miles from Cheyenne, on Crow Qreek, which washes two sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min. ; Ipngitude 10 deg 45 min. It is connectecl by side-track with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The quarter-master's depart- ment — 12 store-houses — is located between the fort and the town, at '' Camp Carling." Several million pounds of Government stores are gathered here, from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The reservation on which the fort is situ- ated was declared by the President, June 38th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. Fort Laramie — This fort was estab- lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a trading post of the Northwestern Fur Company, was purchased by the Gov- ernment, through Brice Husband, the com- DOWN" THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY CEOFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 47 pany's agent, for the site of a military post. It was at one time the winter quarters of many trappers and hmiters. It is also noted as being the place where several treaties have been made between the sava- ges and whites — many of the former living around the fort, fed by Government, and stealing its stock in return. The res- ervation, declared by the President on the 28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- enne — the nearest railroad station— on the left bank of the Laramie, about two miles from its junction with the North Platte, and on the Overland road to Oregon and California. Latitude 42 deg. 13 min. 38 sec. ; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. FortFettermajj — This post was named in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. Wm J Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantry, killed at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decem ber 21st, 1866, established July 19th, 1864, by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, under command of Brevet Colonel William McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry It is situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, on the south side of the North Platte River, 135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 min. 08 sec, longitude 105 deg. 27 min. 03 sec. The reservation of sixty square miles was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne is the nearest railroad station. The regu- lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort is by Government mail ambulance and Black Hills stages. Fort Casper— was situated on the North Platte River, at what was known as " Old Platte Bridge," on the Overland road to California and Oregon, 55 miles north of Fort Fetterman ; was built during the late war; re-built bjr the 18th Infantrjr in 1866, and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mu- nitions of war, etc., were transferred to Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the Platte at this place cost $65,000 — a wooden structure, which was destroyed by the In- f'ians shortly after the abandonment of the post. Fort Reno — ^was established during the war by General E. P. Connor, for the pro- tection of the Powder River country It was situated on the Powder River, 225 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by the 18th infantry, and abandoned. in July, 1868. Fort Phil. Kearny — was established July, 1866, by four companies of the 18th Infantry, under command of Colonel H. B. Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post was situated 290 miles north of Chey- enne, in the very heart of the hunt- ing grounds of the northern Indians, and hence the trouble the troops had with the Indians in establishing it. Near this post is where the great massacre took place in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 1868. Fort C. F Smith — was established in 1866, by Brevet Lieutenani^Colonel N. C Kinney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two companies of that regiment. It was at the foot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big Horn River, 90 miles from Foii; Phil. Kearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was abandoned in July, 1868 Here the thoughtful will note, that the Government established four forts in this northern Powder River country, for the protection of the white man as against the Indian To the occupancy of the country the Indians protested, and the Government acceeded, and made a treaty yielding up possession of the whole country north of the North Platte River— the Black Hills included — and abandoned the posts and the country to the Indians. When gold was discovered in this — acknowledged — Indian country, and the white man commenced to invade it — in search of gold — the Govern- ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, and to keep faith with the Indians and Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against this invasion, and sent soldiers to arrest all parties in the "Hills," and prevent others from going to them. Finally, the Government " winked " at emigration which it could not, or would not prevent. What see we now? The white man has taken the Indian's country, that our Gov- ernment has acknowledgea belonged to the latter, has dri'oen the Indians out, beggars as they are, with only the bread that the Government chooses to toss to them. We are no '' Indian lover," but, if the Govern- ment had a right to build these posts, they should never have abandoned tliem ; having abandoned them, and treated with the Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted " civilization," when, though the lands do contain gold, we take them without a " thank you," as the elephant would crush a toad. Does might make right ? Plains teamsters call a meal a "grub-pile" 48 •crofutt's new overland tourist. o r^ p _. jDT' O h3 5 S *^ t^ O *~i Si P O O l-d p. CD h3 C+- CD 12. P da p ^ o Ei en CD CD P O 0^ P p c+ CO P- O ■ ■ P- o o Pj "' *C5 ss (^ o p- a ?p P' p "• ^ g o o WP5 u3 h> 2. 5. o 2 W P o p f^-- p Rp^ ^p-^Sw E. OD p O !^' P Q g^ CD orq o P5 d, O O p p P CD CO O p f-t- CO o* p p 2. ^ C5 Fl p OP < P •-" TO CO o' O n- ^^ m •-1 p .— "^ a^ 2 ^ p ^ o s p CD Ma CD O g § I CD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, 49 Union P acific R ailway, KANSAS PACIFIC DIVISION. D. E. Cornell, General Agent, Kansas City. Passengers at Kansas City for the "Overland Eoute," via Colorado, Utah and Nevada, will step into the Palace Cars and superb coaches of the Kansas Pacific Division of the U. P. Ey. ; pass through Denver and connect at Chey- enne, Wyo., with the " Overland "train from Omaha. See " Time Table." To write the history and record the prosperity of the Kansas Pacific and the country tributary, in the brief space allotted for that purpose in the '* Overland," it will be impossible to more than register a "telegram" of the most important matters, those of the greatest interest to the tourist or emigrant. The Kansas Pacific Railway Compa- ny, formerly the "Leavenworth, Paw- nee and "Western," was incorporated by Act of Congress July 1, 1862, to con- struct a railroad and telegraph line from the Missouri River, at the mouth of the Kansas, to connect with the Pacific Railroad of Missouri, to the 100th meridian of longitude, upon the game terms and conditions as provided for the construction of the Pacific Railroad across the continent, and to meet and connect at the meridian above named. The route proposed was from the mouth of the Kansas River to the junction of the Republican Fork, at Fort Riley; thence up the Republican, over the •* divide" and Platte River and connect with the Union Pacific near Kearny Station. Work commenced on the ** K P." at Wyandotte, Kansas, September 1, 1863. By Act of Congress of July 2, 1864, the company acquired additional rights; and again, oy amendment of the original Act, approved July 3, 1866, was authorized to change their route and build westward — on the 39th par- allel—from Fort Riley up the Smoky Hill River to Denver, m Colorado; thence to a junction with the Union Pacirtc at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. The road was completed to Denver" in 1870, and In 1872, by the purchase of a controlling interest in the Denver Pacific, reached Cheyenne ; and again, by a sale in 1879, passed to the management of Union Pacific parties, where it still remains. Distance from Kansas City to Denver, 639 miles; from Denver to Cheyenne, 106 miles. The branch lines, six in number, make a mileage, re- spectively : 32 miles, 46 miles, 57 miles, 70 miles, 21 miles and 23 miles; total, branches, 249 miles ; total, whole line, 994 miles. Kansas City is the eastern termi- nus of the main line of the Kansas Pacific Railway. Prior to 1839 the place was known as " Westport Land- ing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City, with a population— most- ly traders, hunters and trappers— of 300. Now it claims 61,000. The city is built on a high bluff on the south bank of the great bend of the Missouri River, just below the mouth of the " Kaw " — or Kansas River. Its central location has, from the first, enabled it to control a large trade with the coun- try to the west and southward, which, since the advent of railroads, has Sown to an enormous business. The issouri Pacific was the first railroad completed to Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865, since which time nine have ar- rived to bid for and share the business which often taxes their entire combined capacity. As a live stock center—cat- tle, sheep and hogs — and for slaughter- ing, packing or shipping, Kansas City has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and pork packing establishments are immense— xre situa- ted on the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the Union Depot, and are well worthy a yisit by the traveller. The ^r*t bridge over the Missouri was commenced at Kansas City, and its completion celebrated July 4, 1869. so ORdnjTT*S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Kansas City possesses all the modem improvements— horse railroads, gas, water works, etc. ; churches and schools in great numbers, opera liouse, theatre, daily papers, and of hotels, a few dozen, chief of which are the Coates, St James and Pacific Wyandotte, Kansas, is about two miles west, across the Kansas River, and might well be called a suburb of Kansas City— it is connected by horse <5ars— has a population of about 6,000, many of whom do business in Kansas €ity and reside in Wyandotte, The town is on a portion of the lands once owned by the Delaware Indians, who sold them in 1842 to the AVyandotte In- dians, the remnants of a tribe from the State of Ohio. The lands are in a high state of cultivation, and large orchards of fruit are numerous. The Kansas State Institution for the Blind is located at Wyandotte. Leaving the Union Depot — which is used by all the railroads in common that enter Kansas Citj'— we soon cross the Kansas River and the State Line, pass Armstrong at the end of one mile — where are located the machine shops of the Kansas Pacific— and fol- lowing along on the west bank of the river one-half mile further to Muncy Siding. The river in places is close on the left; the bottoms are wide and oovered with trees, with here and there a clearing. On the right the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small trees. Continuing on 4.4 miles we come to Edwards- ville; 8.6 miles more to Tiblow, and 8.2 miles to Loring, from which it is three miles to Lenape, and 4.4 miles more to Linwood, where Strang- er Creek is crossed. The timber on the Kansas River bot- toms consists of red and burr oak, hackberry, ash, hickory, cottonwood and sycamore. The acreage under cul- tivation is increasing, and after a run of five miles from Linwood we pass Fall Leaf, an unimportant station, be- yond which the country fairly "spreads out," and we get a first view of the ^eat rolling prairies of Kansas. Leavenworth Junction is the next station; distance 4.5 miles from Fall Leaf, 36 miles from Kansas City and 32 miles from Leaven worth. Let us take a run over tne liCaTen worth Branck. — This road runs through a section of country the greater portion of which is under cultivation. The stations are Reno, five miles; Tonganoxie, two miles; Moore's Summit, two miles; Big Stranger, three miles; Hoge, four miles, and five more to Fairmont, the most important station on the line. It is situated on a portion of the Dela- ware Indian Reservation, first pur- chased from the Indians by the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, and by them re-sold to a class of farmers and stock raisers who have become prosperous. After leaving Fairmont several small stations are passed— the first. Penitentiary, where the State insti- tution of that name is located — and a run of ten miles brings us to lieavenwftrth, situated on the west bank of the Missouri River, and contains a i»opulation of 18,000. It was settled in 1854, and is surrounded by a section of country of unsurpass- ing fertility. Leavenworth has all the metropolitan features of a big city- horse railroads, gas, water works, a big railroad bridge over the Missouri, twenty-six churches, exclusive of a Catholic cathedral that cost $130,000, nine banks, six daily papers and a score or more of hotels, besides quite a num- ber of manufactories. Fort Leavenworth is two miles north of the city— established in 1827— and is now the headquarters* Department of the Missouri. Returning to the Junction, about one mile and we are at Bismark Grove— On the right of the road. It contains about 40 acres heavily timbered with oaks and elms, in the center of which is a beautiful lake. This grove has become widely known of late as the place where the first National Temperance Camp Meeting was held. From the Grove it is one mile to Liawrence.— So named for the mil- lionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass. The city proper is opposite the depot, on the south side of the Kansas River, about one mile distant, reached by several fine bridges. It is situated in :>- ~ ^" --^ «s^' PORT POINT, GOLD] "^mm^: '^-^i^ ATE, CALIFORNIA. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 51 the midst of the richest and most fer- tile section of Kansas, as well as be- ing the most beautiful city in the State. Here, too, are street railroads, gas, water works, and, in fact, all the im- provements and conyeniences found in the large cities east. Population, about 15,000. Settled in 1854. Raided by Quantrell's band, August 21, 1803, who burned the town and murdered upwards of 100 unarmed citizens. In the southern portion of the city is located the State University, on the summit of Mount Oread ; from which point you look upon a very beautiful landscape, dotted, in all directions, with hundreds of farm houses. The Oarbondale Branch of the "K. P.** leads off from this place— 32 miles to Carbondale. The stations and distan- ces between, are : Siegel, 7.5 miles ; Bel- voir, 5 miles ; Richland, 6.3 miles ; Kin- ney's 8.2 miles ; Summit,4 miles ; Carbon- dale, 1 mile. Th ' Leavenworth, Lawrence and Galveston Railroad, coming in from the South, is another element of prot- perity for the city. From Lawrence it is 0.4 miles to Buck Creek, a small station, then three more to Williamston, and 3.2 miles to Perryville. These are all small stations, surrounded by a thrifty farming community, and are growing in importance. About one mile be- yond Perryville, we cross Grasshopper Kiver, upon which are located several flouring mills, and small manufactor- ies. Tlie river is well timbered, — oak, hickory, elm, ash, cotton wood and soft maple, principally. The Grasshopper unites with the Kansas River, opposite the old town of Lecompton, of "Lecompton constitu- tion'* notoriety. The soil is "a black loam, and very productive. The lands were once a portion of the Del-aware Indian Reservation. From Perryville it is 3.2 miles to Medina.— The town was laid out in 1860, and with the near surroundings, has a population of about 1,500, mostly engaged in agricultural pursuits. Two miles north of the station is located the old "Indian Mill Farm," which has been under cultivation for oyer 85 years. From Medina it is 2.5 4 miles to Newman from which it is 5.2 miles to Grantsville, a small station of the west bank of Muddy Creek. This section is noted, if at all, for its "Osage Orange" hedges, some of which are very fine. Six miles further, and our road crosses the track of tht Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Bail- road, which is completed from Atchi- son and Kansas City to Deming, in New Mexico, with the Pacific Coast for an objection point. The crossing is only a few hundred yards from the depot at Topeka— The capital of the State. Population, 15,433. Here passenger trains stop 20 minutes for meals. Topeka is in Shawnee County, situat- ed on the north bank of the Kansas River, and surrounded by a very rich and fertile country; was located in 1854. The river is crossed at Topeka on one of the "King Iron Tubular Bridges," a solid structure 900 feet in length, composed of six spans, resting on stone piers, built from the "bed rock" in the river. The Capitol is a fine building, built of what is called in this country "Junc- tion City MarblQ," a white magnesian limestone, found in many places in the State. It can be quarried in blocks from - to 10 tons in weight, and when fresh from the quarry is very easy to saw. The Government buildings at Fort Riley are built of this kind of stone, and has proved satisfactory. The Capi- tol cost $400,000. While we are here at the Seat of Government, we will note a few items in regard to the State. Kansas has an area of 52,053,520 adres, of which 40,- 000,000 is unimproved, awaiting the reader. Pritje from $1.25 to $20 per acre. Present population of the State 995,335. It has a school fund of $1,555,- 360, which is augmenting yearly. There are 4,520 school houses, 6,359 teachers, and 266,576 scholars. Then there are three Normal Schools, for educating teachers ; the University at Lawrence, and the Agricultural College at Man- hattan. On the line of the Kansas Pacific, there are 76 grain elevators, with storage capacity of 2,515,100 bush- els ; and 52 flouring mills, with 169 run of stone; capacity, 4,310 barrels per day. 52 OROFUTT 8 NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Leaving Topeka, Me-no-ken, a small station, is reached in 4.7 miles ; Silver Lake in 5.9 ; Kinosville in 2.7; RossviLLE in 2.8, and 7.6 miles more to St. Mary's— an important station, in some respects. The country for the last 25 miles, and surrounding the town, is thickly settled, and the greater portion cultivated. Com is the prin- cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised. The Jesuit Fathers visited this country nearly 40 years ago, and estab- 'lished Mission Schools among the In- dians. More recently they have erect- ed here lar^e educational institutions ; one fot ladies, is known as "The Sem- inary of the Sacred Heart** The build- ing to the north of the railroad, is of brick, with stone trimmings, 100 feet front and four stories in height, com- pleted in 1871. The College for males IS adjoining, and can accommodate 1,300 students. From St. Mary's it is C.2 miles to Belvue, a small station 6.9 miles from the end of the Kaw Division, First District, which is at Wamego,— This is a large and thriving town situated in the midst of a country well watered by numerous small creeks, very fertile and thickly settled. The next station, 6.6 miles, is St. George, another growing town of about 700 population, from which it is W miles to Manhattan.— Population, about 2,000 ; County Seat of Riley County, 117 miles west of Kansas City. The town is situated near the junction of the Kansas and Blue 'rivers, was settled in 1854 by a colony of Ohio "Pilgrims,*' who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati, steamed down the Ohio river, and thence up the Mississippi, Missouri, and Kansas rivers to tliis place, where they settled, in what was then a wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be •rected, Tlie Kansas State Agricultural Col- lege — an experimental farm — is located at Manhattan. Congress, in its benev- olent wisdom, endowed this C-llege with a land grant of 81,000 acres, 50,000 of which has been sold, realizing the snug sum of $238,000. The institution has 400 acres fenced and cultivate the greater portion with vineyards and orchards of fruit of every variety Leaving Manhattan a few miles, the bluffs come close on the right, in places 500 feet in height, covered with trees, rocks and grass alternating, while the river comes in close to the road, on the left, and again receding for miles, along the banks of which ash, oak, hickory, cotton wood and elm trees grow in profusion. Here, too, can be seen some fine farms, surrounded by beautiful osage orange hedge From Manhattan it is 11.1 miles to Offden— A town of some historic interest in the annals of the State, as being the place where the first Terri- torial Legislature, convened by Gov. Reeder, met to "Save the Country** The place was first settled in 1856. Six miles further is the station of Fort Riley— So called for the Fort of that name, situated upon the high plateau to the right ; established in 1852, is in latitude 39° nort ', 96°30^ west. The post was first known as " Camp Center," being situated in the geogra- phical center of the United States. J unction City,— County Seat of Davis County, is 2.7 miles west of Fort Riley, and is destined to be a place of much importance. It was located in 1850, has grown rapidly and now con- tains 5,000 population. Here is located the marble quarries before alluded to; here, too, is the northern terminus of the Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railroad, and the Junction City & Fort Kearny Railway, The Republican River unites with the Kansas River at this point, up which is completed the J., C. & F. K. Railway, a ^ranch of th ' Kansas Pacific to Concordia, 70 miles north- west. The stations and distances between are: Alder, 7.7 miles; Milford, 5.4 miles ; Wakefield, 6 miles ; Clay Cen- ter, 14 miles; Morgan ville, 7.6 miles; Clifton, 8.7 miles ; C, B., U. P. Crossing, 4.9 miles; Clyde, 0.8 miles; Lawrence- burg, 7.6 miles ; Concordia, 7.4 miles. The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most productive in the State. It was the Indian's home, to retain which he fought the white man long and bitterly, and with the usual PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 53 result, the Indian had to go I He went I Where once roamed his " pony herd " in tliousands, now can be couiite i the duellings of his successors in equal numbers; where once the Indian's beef (buffalo) ranged in untold millions now range the white man's beef. The buf- falo has gone— went with the Indians. Will the time ever come when the "suc- cessors" will be succeeded by a stronger and more enlightened race? Will they in turn ever be driven out and exter- minated? — Quien saheW At Junction City the Smoky Hill river comes in from tiie southward, which, with the Rei)ublican, forms the Kansas river. The Smoky will be on our left for the next 47 miles, to Salina. After leaving Junction City, a pecu- liar rock formation is noticeable on the right along the summit of the bluffs resembling a long line of fortifications. Another item, we record for the ben- efit of the sportsman ; feathered game in great abundance are found on the prairies, and along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, such as prairie chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican, an many other varieties. Then a run of 6.8 miles to Chapman, 6.2 miles to Detroit, and 5.2 miles more and we reach Abilene — county seat of Dicken- son county. Population about 2,000. Passenger train* stop 30 minutes — oppo- site the Henry House— for meals, which arc ihe best on the road. This station was the first great cattle shipping point on the Kansas Pacific Railway. From 1867 to 1870, the number loaded on the cars and sent east, wer** from 75,000 to 150,000 a year, but as the agriculturalist crowded in, the cattle- men were crowded out, and we will find them no7^>— far to tlie westward. We are now in what is called the "Golden Belt"— so named for the won- derful adaptability of the country for raising wheat and other small grains. These "belt" lands, it is claimed, com- mence near Junction City, and ex- tends beyond Ellis— about 200 miles in length. Wheat is the principal crop, and comprises one half of all the pro- ductions. There are several fields of wheat, near Abilene, of 1,000 acres each, one of 3,000, and one of 8,500. Of laU years, tree-planting has been quite an industry. Orchards of fruit are num- erous, and successfully raised. From Abilene it is 4.4 miles to Sand Springs, a Signal Station, thence 4.6 miles to Solomon— situated near the junc- tion of the Smoky Hill and Solomoa Rivers, in the midst of a thrifiy agri- cultural section. Population about 500. The Solomon Railroad, another branch of the "K. P.," is built up th© valley of the Solomon to 13eloit,58 mile? northwest from this station. Seversd Salt Si)ring3 are near the town, and the buildings erected for the purpose of manufacturing the salt are quite ex- tensive, and can be seen from the can after leaving the station. Leaving Solomon, we cross the river of that name, and 7.8 miles arrive at New Cambria, a small station situated on a broad plain, dotted, in all direc- tions with the neat little cottages of the settlers, who are principally engag- ed raising wheat and corn. Six milei further we reach Salina— the County Seat of Salina County, settled in 1858. Just before- reaching the station we cross the Sali- na River, which comes down from the north-west. Salina has a population of about. 3,000, some large grain elevators, several good hotels, papers and another rail road, the Salina & Southwestern. This branch comes to McPhers6n,distant36 miles to the southwest. Situated on the Smoky Hill River, near the Swed- ish colony who settled here in 1870. The principal occupation of the peo- ple is agriculture, although there are many herds of cattle and sheep in the county, and some extensive quarries of Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, also sev- eral Salt Springs that are being utelized for the production of salt. Along all the rivers and streams about this section of country are belts of timber, consisting of cotton wood, oak, mulberry, elm and hackberry. Bavaria — is the next station 8.4 miles from Salina, where is located a colony from the Western Reserve of Ohio, who settled here in 1869. This colony has been very successful, wheat 54 orofutt's new overland tourist and com crops being their reliance. A run of 6.6 miles brings us to the end of the second district of the Kaw Valley Division of the road, at Brookville.— Here the Railroad Company have the usual division re- pair shops, good depot buildings, and extensive cattle pens. Population, about 500. The country surrounding the station is a rolling prairie, on which can be seen, besides the usual wheat and com fields, an occasional herd of cattle and sheep. Leaving Brookville, we pass several small stations in the order, and distances between as fol- lows : 4.2 miles to Rock Springs ; 1.8 miles to Terra . Cotta ; 4.4 miles to Elm Creek; 6.1 miles to Summit Sid- ing ; 2.5 miles to Fort Hariosr, and old Government post, on the left, built in 1867-8, abandoned ; and 4.7 miles to Ellsworth— County Seat of Ells- worth County, situated on the north bend of the Smoky Hill River. Set- tled in 1867 ; present population 1,100. Tlie town has some good stone build- ings, a large grain elevator, several hotels, cattle pens and shutes — ^the latter not of much use of late, as the farmers are crowding the cattle-men a little further west. The next station is Blaok Wolf, 7.2 miles; then Cow Creek, 2.8 miles. VFilson's— is 6.5 miles from Cow Creek. This is a thrifty town of 400 iwpulation, situated in a rolling prairie country, fast filling up with settlers. Prom Wilson's it is 6.4 miles to Dar- iiANOE, and 7.8 miles to Bunker Hill, the County Seat of Russell County, population, 400 ; first settled in 1871, by a colony from Ohio. Near the station 8alt Springs abound, lime stone i^ plentiful, some coal, and abundance of mineral paint, and pottery clay. Pass- ing on we pass through Homer in 6.8 mixes, and 4.6 miles more to Rapsell — population about 800,^ settled in 1881, by a colony from Bipon, Wisconsin, and is situated about four miles south of the south bend of the Saline River, and surrounded by rich, agricultural lands» well cultivated. Leaving Russell it is ».l miles to Gor- ham; three more to Walker; and 3.9 miles further to Vietoria~Six miles south of the station is located the "Victoria Colony,** established by the late Mr. George Grant,a wealthy scotchman,who bought 80,000 acres of land here, sold a portion to settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The lands have a rich soil, are well cultivated, and dotted in all di- rections with the homes of the settlers, and their herd of horses, cattle, and sheep. Prom Victoria it is 10.5 miles to Hays— County Seat of Ellis County —named for the post established in 1867, about half a mile south of the station on a high plateau. Hays has a population exclusively of soldiers, of about 700, many of whom are engaged in stock-raising— as be it known we have reached the western limits of the agriculturalists, and soon will bid them good bye, and grip the hand of the herdsman. The next station is 13.2 miles distant, and is the end of the third district of the.Smoky Hill Division. Elli».— We are now on the "Cattle Trail." At this station are immense yards and shutes, for the accommoda- tion of stockmen, many of whom drive up great droves of cattle from Texas, and the country to the southwest, as well as graze them in the surround- ing country. In fact, this is the great- est cattle-shipping point on the road. The grasses are mostly "bunch grass*' and "buffalo," or "grandma grass,** the richest and most nutritious grown. The article on "Western Stock Raising,** —in Annex. No. 29— will apply equally as well in this section as the one for which it was ^^ritten. Ellis has about 500 enterprising, law- abiding citizens, most of them are en- gaged in stock-raising, yet, of late, the agflcultui^alists are crowding in, buy- ing up the lands, and it will not oe long before the cattle-men?— who do not buy land— will have to go west. From Ellis it is 10.3 miles to OoAL- LAH, an unimportant station, from which it is 9 miles to Wa-Keeney,— one of the most en- terprising towns on the road. It con- tains about 500 citizens, many of them are engaged In agricultural pursuits, but the greater portion in the cattle business. Here we find one of th« finest depot buildings on the road ; it is PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 5d SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAINS, I0,000 FEET HIGH. 100 feet by 30 feet, and 32 feet high, surmounted with a tower 50 feet high, and a platform 27 feet wide. There are many fine stone buildings, princi- pal of which is the Oaks House. Leav- ing Wa-Keeney, we pass on rapidly through a section of country almost wholly occupied by cattle men, pass- ing the stations, with the distances between as follows: Colter, 14.1 miles ;BuFFALo,14.3 miles ;Grainfield, 5.5 miles ; Gbinnell, 9 miles ; Carlyle, 12.1 miles; Mon't Siding, 9.4 miles; Monument, 2 miles ; Gopher, 9.7 miles ; Sheridan, 7.6 miles; and 15.1 miles more to Wal I ace— A regular eating station, where good meals are served for 75 cts. Population about 250. It is the end of the third district of the Smoky Hill Division, and the commencement of the Denver Division. The station is in the midst of a rolling prairie, two miles north-west of Fort Wallace,. established in 1866. It is situated on the fork of the Smoky Hill River, in latitude 38 deg., 55 min., and longitude 100 deg., 50 min. from, Greenwich. For the last hundred miles the coun- try is almost wholly occupied by the cattle-men, and will continue to be for the next 150 miles, so we shall pass most of the stations, by simply naming them and the distance between : I^rom "Wallace it is 8.5 miles to Eagle Tail; 8.3 miles to Monnotony Siding; 3.2 miles to Monnotony— we are nearing Monnotony on all sides now— 12 miles to Arapaho, where the State line is crossed, and we enter Colorado ; 9.5 miles to Cheyenne Wells ; 10.5 miles to First View— where, if tho. 56 crofutt's new overland tourist. day be clear, the first view of Pike's Peak and the Rocky Mountains are to be had — and 14.7 miles more to M.it Carson— named for the old hunter, trapper and guide of that name — and somewhat famous as being the place where the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia tarried to hunt buffalo, in Jan- uary, 1872. It was a big hunt, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals, and, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the last 250 miles, but, of late years, few, if any,have been seen— went with the Indians. From Kit Carson it is 11.9 miles to Wild Horse, named for a band of wild horses that once roamed over this country ; 10.9 miles to Aroyo ; 13.4 to Mirage, and 11 more to Hugo — an eating station, from which it is 12.5 to Lake, where are a few pools of water. 8.8 miles to River Bend, situated on the big bend of the Big Sandy Creek; 6.3 miles to Cedar Point; 4.2 miles to Godfry's, where there are some coal mines of fair qua- lity ; 4.9 miles to Agate, noted for the moss agates found near the station ; 12.2 miles to Deer Tail, situated on East Bijou Creek; 12 miles to Byers. Prom Byers it is 12.4 miles to Bennet ; 9.4 miles to Box Elder, situated on a creek of that name ; from which it is 12.4 miles to Schuyler, and 9.3 miles more to Denver. Remember ! For full and complete information in regard to Colorado, its wonderful mines of gold, silver, cop- per and other precious metals, its agricultural, stock-raising and varied resources ; its pleasure resorts, lakes, rivers, mountains, parks, sulphur, so- da, hot and medicinal springs; its magnificent scenery, railways, etc., buy "CrofutVs Grip- Sack Guide" of Colorado, a complete encyclopedia of the State, profusely illustrated. " Tour No. one gives a complete description of the route and country from Denver to Cheyenne, where con- nections are made with the Overland trains from Omaha and San Francis- co. Sold on all trains. Leaving Cheyenne, just in the bor- der of the city we cross Crow Creek, and about two miles from the city — by looking to the right, northward — a fine view can be had of Fort Davy Russell, previously described. We are now ascending the eastern slope of the southern range* of the Black Hills of Wyoming, which are stretch- ing away m a long rugged line be- fore us. Colorado Junction — six miles west of Cheyenne, is the first station we reach, and the junction of the Co- lorado Central Branch The track turns off at the left of the station and crosses the prairie and hills to the southward. Four miles from the Junction, Borie, a small side-track, is passed, from which it is 4.2 miles to Otto — Passenger trains usually meet here, stop a few moments, ex- change letters and papers, then pass on first steam railroad train in AMERICA. The above illustration , . ^, drawn and en- graved from the original painting in the posses- Bion of the Connecticut Historical Society, and represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk and Hudson R. R. from Albany to Schenectady, N. Y., lu 1831, the FIB8T steam train in America. The engii.e was the "John BuU," imported from England, as well as the engineer, John Hampton, " expressly for this road, at large ex- pense." Her cylinder was 5H inches, 1 6 inch stroke, wheels 4'.^ feet. The boilers had thirty copper tubes, five feet long, four inches in diame- ter. Connecting rods are worked on double cranks on front axle. Weight of engine, complete, 4 tons. The tender represents the method of carrying the fuel— wood— in barrels, with a few sticks handy for mimediate use. The cars were regular stage bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- sion trial trip were sixteen persons, who were then thought venturesome, many of whom have since filled important positions in the councils of the country. Mr. Sidney DiUon, President of the Union Pacific R. R. , it seems, was one of the adventurous few. Here is food for thought and comparison with the improvements of the pres- ent day. crofutt's new overland tourist 57 — one going East for light, the other West for knowledge. We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and the traveler should note the rapid rise made from this point, in surmounting the Black Hills. Here the heavy grading commences, and snow fences will be nu- merous till we get over the " Hills." To the north of this place, at the base of the Hills, is a fine valley, where Crow Creek finds its source in many fine springs. The valley contains very superior grazing land, and in conjunction with the adja- cent hills, affords ample game fo^ the hunter. Fifteen miles from this station, to the north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, now deserted. Near this fort are the head waters of Lodge Pole Creek. Oranite Canyon— is five miles west of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point are extensive stone quarries, whence was taken the rock for the company's build- ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- ity, and many kilns have been erected. To the left of the road, and down the canyon a few hundred yards, is a fine spring, from whence the water is elevated to the tank by the roadside. Half a mile to the south are a number of fine springs, which — with others to the westward — are the hpad-wa- ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the South Platte River. Along the road now is i.eavy rock-work, and on the exposed portions of the road may be seen the snow- sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or stone. Baford — is a small side-track, 6 9-10 miles further. Heavy rock-work, and snow-sheds and fences mark the road. Water for the station is elevated from springs down the ravine, to the southward. The country here presents a wild, rug- ged and grand appearance. The level ground or Rttle valleys are covered with a fine coat of buffalo grass, and now and then clumps of stunted pine appear by the roadside. On either hand, near by, high, bold masses of granite rear their gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- liarly impressive as we near Sherman, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds float low down the horizon ; then the traveler looks over the intervening space between him and the mountain range beyond, and sees naught ^but floating masses of vapor; no moun- tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long, dark line rising above them, o'ertopped by the glistening sides of Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we see on the north side of the road,a sign- board— ''Summit of the Mountains;'* and soon after reach Sherman — eigr/i^ thousand two hundred and forty -two feet above level of the sea. It is named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point just south of the station, a monument is being erected to the memory of Cakes and Oliver Ames. Sherman is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San Francisco, and is not noted for its size. The trains stop here but a few min- utes. The company's buildings consist of a comfortable station, a small repair shop, and a round-house of five stalls. A post- office, telegraph and express offices, one store, two hotels, two saloons, and about twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the town. Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on at this station for the East and West is quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- tant to the northward. On many of these hills, and in the canyons, are found a dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, as to quality and adaptability for being dressed, resembles the hemlock of the Eastern States. The winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think, neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from seeing the great number of snow-sheds and fences ; snow seldom falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the dfepth of snow that causes any inconvenience to the working of the road, but it is the di'ifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds. For the purpose of preventing this, the sheds, fences and walls are erected along the road, the latter a few rods away from the banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air, which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a 68 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. great measure, from the track. Snow-sheds cover the deepest cuts along the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- est snows come with an east wind ; the worst storms come from the southwest'. The thermometer at Sherman ranges from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs of sparkling water are numerous in the suiTOunding country, and form many small streams which \yind their way among rocks and through gorges until they are lost in the waters of other streams. At this elevated point, the tourist, if his " wind is good," can spend a long time pleasantly in wandering amid some of the wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the continent. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms are far deeper, 'where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the torrents might- ier in their power, and still they do not possess such power over the mind of man as does the wild, desolate-looking land- scape around Sherman. Although the plateau is covered with grass, and occa- sional shrubs and stunted trees greet the eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- lation render this place one of awful gran- deur. The hand of Him who rules the universe is nowhere else more marked, and in no place will the tourist feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from man- kind, and left entirely with nature, as at Sherman, on the Black Hills of Wyoming. At the first the tourist experiences much difficulty in breathing, the extreme light- ness of the air trying the lungs to their ut- most capacity, but becoming accustomed to the change, and inhaling long draughts of the pure mountain air, will greatly pre- fer it to a heavier atmosphere. Fish and Game — There is no spot along the line of road which can be compared to the locality around Sherman for trout fish- PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 59 Ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm witli them, and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They wei^h from one-fourth to two pounds, and their flesh is as hard and white as that of the mountain trout of Vermont. Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, sage hens and grouse abound in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter, or tourist should never pass Sherman with- out pausing 'ong enough to fly a hook and try his rifle. Doubtless this point will be- come £ favorite summer resort for travelers, when the hotel accommodations ai'e uch as to entice them to remain, as it possesses eminent attractions for hunting and fishing. From Sherman to Rawlin's, 160 miles, the road runs between the Black Hills and the* Rocky Mountain range, presenting varied and impressive scenery at various points. Leaving Sherman, the road turns to the left, and passes through several long snow- sheds and deep rock cuts to Dale Creek Bridge — Dale Creek is a noted stream, although a small one, and should have a noted briage — as it has. When the road was being constructed over these hills, in 1867, the railroad company built a plated wooden frame-work structure 650 feet long, from blufi" to bluff and 126 feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, interlaced with each other, and securely corded together and stayed by wire cables, secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on each side to substantial anchorage, down into the valley below, presenting a light and graceful appearance when viewed from the creek below. This old bridge - was replaced in 1877 by one of iron, of similar dimensions, built in the most sub- stantial manner— see illustration, page 49. From the bridge, the beautiful little stream looks like a silver thread below us, the sun glistening its surface with a thou- sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the dark walls of the canyon shade it, as though they were envious or jealous of its beauty being rendered common property. A narrow, green valley, half a mile above the bridge, is the site of the former Dale City, where, at one time, were over 600 inhabitants. Now, a few hundred yards above tlie bridge, can be seen a soli- tary house— like a lone sentinel in front of a deserted camp. Here, too. as well as around Sherman, and all over the Black Hills, are found countless flowers of every variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which have been classified. ViRGiNL\ Dale — is situated fifteen miles southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile along the stream, giving a wild and pictur- esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur to the scene, rai-ely surpassed. This point is called the "Lover's Leap," though we never learned that any one ever leaped off; but if the leap was made, we j udge that the jar on alighting in the valley, 600 feet below, must have knocked all the love, romance or sentiment out of those making it In and around this place are numerous dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, towering peaks and rugged recesses, ; enough to employ the tourist for some time in examining their beauties. Some "yellow-covered novelist" has immortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to inform us what they roosted on. But aside from this questionable honor, Virginia Dale is the most widely known and cele- brated of any locality in these mountains. There are a few good buildings around the place, where excursionists, who visit to enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare fisiiing and hunting, are provided for. See Annex, No 10. "We now return to the railroad, cross the bridge, and turn away to the northward, through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, made through red sandstone, six miles to Tie ^^iding — This station is important only in the fact of its being a point where great quantities of ties and wood are brought to the railroad from the hills to the northward. The view to the south is that of a very broken and rugged coun- try. To the west, the southern end of the great Laramie Plains is spread out, almost at our feet, twenty miles in width, with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- ing from its western border, range upon ran^e, peak overlapping peak, away up, up into the regions of perpetual snow, over one hundred miles away. Our train is descending rapidly, and more to the northward ; steam is no longer required — only brakes. Onward. 4 1-10 miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca. vations, brings us to Harney — an unimportant station Passing on, to the left can be seen the old rACIFIC COAST GUIDE. CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKTATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. Denver and Salt Lake stage road, the tele- graph marking the line for some distance along the railroad. On the right hand, the whole valley has been fenced in for grazing purposes. The next station is 4 1-3 miles, denomi- nated Red Buttes— This locality derived its name from several ridges and peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and the Black Hills on the right. Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 500 to 1,000 feet above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- tance, mi^ht be taken for castles, rise side by side with the wall of an immense fort ; churches rear their roofs, almost shading the lowly cottage by their side ; columns, monuments ana pyramids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as -though some malignant power had carried off some mighty city of the olden time, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upep these plains, without much regard to the order m which the buildings were placed. Some few only of these curiosities, can be seen from the car windows, and those are not the largest. The tourist, by stopping over a day or two at Laramie, would find much of interest in this section of the country. The Laramie River rises about 50 miles to the southwest from Red Buttes, on the eastern slope of the mountains— its source being composed of almost innumerable springs. Its general course is northeast for 200 miles, when it empties into the North Platte River at Fort Laramie. During the building of the road, thou- sands of ties were fioated down to Lara, mie, and thence hauled along the line. The supply of timber in this region is as near inexhaustible as can well be im- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 61 agined, where forests do not recover from the cutting. Saw mills will find employmentfor many generations ere they can lay bare these mountains. Six and a half miles from Red Buttes is a station for the military post of Fort Sanders, which is situated on the east side of the railroad, close to the track, and in plain view for miles. The buildings are principally of logs, sev- eral of stone and one an ordinary frame — headquarters. This post was established June 23, 1866, by two com- panies of the Third Battalion U. S. In- fantry, under the command of Brevet Lieut. -Col. H. M. Mizner, Captain 18th Infantry. Latitude 41 deg., 13 min., 4 sec. (observation), longitude 105 deg., 40 min. (approximate^. Two and a half miles farther on we arrive at the end of the "Mountain Di- vision" of the road. liaramie City — the enterprising county seat of Albany county, has wonderfully improved within the last few years. It has a population of 4,000 and is regularly laid out at right angles with the road. A stream of clear, cold water, which rises in a spring a few miles to the eastward, runs tnrough the principal streets ; the buildings are small and mostly of wood, with a few substantial structures of stone. The spirit of improvement is manifested on every hand, which has recently completed numerous stores, hotels, banks, churches, schools, dwellings, and other buildings, including a court house and jail. Trees line many of the streets, and present a cheerful a.nd home-like appearance; in fact, most of the Laramie residents are here to stay. For many years after the com- pletion of the road this was a regular eating station for passenger trains from the East and West. The meals were served in the Thornburg House, at present a first-class hotel, in front of which the cars stop. The Sentinel, weekly, and Boomerang, daily, are published here. Rolling Mill — During the year 1874 the railroad company erected a rolling mill at this place, at a cost of $127,500. It is situated to the right of the road, a short distance north of the station, and is in operation night and day, re- rolling old rails and other heavy work. The company's division shops are also located here. They are of stone obtain- ed from Rock Creek, 50 miles north. The round-house contains 20 stalls. The machine shop is used for general repairing, and is first-class in outfit. The railroad was completed to this point June 18, 1868, and for some time Laramie was known as the "end of the track," and during that time it was not only the place from which all freight and supplies for the West were hauled by wagonSjbut it was the center for all the roughs and abominations which followed the building of the road. Directly to the east can be seen the Cheyenne Pass wagon road— the old emigrant route — which crosses the plain and river h mile above the city, running north along the mouuntains. Laramie was the first place in Amer- ica — or in the world even — where a fe- male jury was empaneled. Their first case was that of a Western desperado, and there was no flinching from duty. Curious passengers will note from this city west, the railroad laborers- section hands— are Chinamen. They are said to be very reliable. Laramie Plains — comprise a belt of fine grazing lands, about 25 miles wide by 60 long, and the remarks about the grazing lands elsewhere will well ap- ply to this section. Beef caa be raised and fattened on these plains as cheap- ly as in Texas, where, as every one knows, they raise themselves and form the larger half of the population. The peculiar features of these grasses are similar to those already described. The plains are higher, and frost ap- pears earlier in the fall, but the sum- mer sun cures the grass before its ar- rival, so that the cold weather does not injure it. We need only mention the well-known fact that thousands of buffalo once roamed these plains, fur- nishing the Indians unlimited beef, to convince any one that the laudations of this as a grazing country are not ex- agigerated or wild ideas, but substan- tiated facts, proved by experience. Stock-raising is now almost the only industry noticeable, and a great many thousand head of cattle, sheep and horses can ba seen in almost any direction. It is computed that there are at this time over 90,000 head of cattle, 85,000 head of sheep, and three thousand horses and mules 62 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST within 40 miles of Laramie, valued at $3,350,000. In 1867, there couldn't be found in the same section 500 head of all kinds— all told. Agriculture is not profit- able, yet they have demonstrated that some of the hardy vegetables can be cultivated with success on the bottom lands. Items of Interest — Crystal Lake is about 40 miles to the westward of Lara- mie, ^eep Mountain — one of the peaks in the Rocky Mountain range — rears its head for 13,000 feet above the sea. Should the tourist desire to visit the place, he will find the road bei^ond the plains rough, and the ascent toilsome. Before begin- ning the ascent of the mountains we enter one of the grandest forests in the country. For ten miles we toil on through the for- est, which is so dense that the sunlight hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears, mountain lions, and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts, until lately, never having been in- vaded by the pale face. Emerging from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find ourselves on the highest point of the moun- tain, from which we can look over piles of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond. I'eak on peak, ridge on ridge, they ascend, until their snow- clad heights are lost in the distance, or in the vast blue dome above. Looking downward, we behold a vast succession ot dark ridges and ^rey peaks through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating above them. These dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the forests of pine, which extend for miles and miles in all directions. To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains, which is Laramie Plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged masses of the Black Hills rise in their grandeur, their black cre^ closing the scene. Turn now to the immediate landscape. Here is a green, grassy lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before beheld, or ever read of, and right before us, in the center of this lawn, lies a circular lake nearly a mile wide ; its clear, soft, cold water glistening in the rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mirror, every object on its banks, transforming them into many fantastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting it into little ripples. • The scene is one of unsurpassed loveli- ness immediately around you while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sub- lime — beyond the power of words to de- pict. Whoever visits this place cannot fail of being impressed with its wonderous beauty, and his mind will take newer and clearer impressions of the power of "Him who hath created all things." The Snowy Range — the great backbone of the continent — is covered with snow for a great part of the season ; the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when the passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspicuous and easily discerned at a great distance. Hence the term " Snowy Range." Characteristics of the Country — In general descriptions we speak of Laramie Plains as including all the country lying between the western base of the Black Hills and the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains — a grand park, similar in for- mation to the great parks of Colorado, though of much less altitude. These "parks" are immense bodies of table lands, enclosed by the peaks and ridges of the surrounding mountains, sheltered by them from the cold winds, watered by them from the never-failing streams which flow from gorges and canyons among these peaks, from which the snow is never absent. The average elevation of the Lar- amie Plains or park is about 6,500 feet, though where Laramie City stands it is more. The Black Hill ranges of the Rocky Mountains form the eastern and northern boundary of the "Plains." This range extends nearly due north to Laramie Peak, about 150 miles, thence west, terminating in the Seminole Mountains. On the south, the park or plain is bordered by the Rocky Mountains, which here reach an elevation of from 10,000 to 13,000 feet above the sea — snow-capped always. To the altitude of from 8,000 to 9,000 feet, these slopes ai'e covered with dense pine forests. In the mountains to the westward, in North Park, Douglass, and other creeks, rich mines of gold, silver, copper, 'and nearly all the known metals have been dis- covered, and in several cases, worked to ad- vantage. The Keystone is reported to be a very rich mine, the owners of which are taking out the ore and piling it up, to await the arrival of a stamp mill which will be put up in a few months. Undoubtedly there are vast regions tributary to Laramie equally well-stored with mineral deposits, that have never been prospected or visited by the white men. On the northwest from out the Elk PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 63 Mountains, juts the Rattlesnake Range, ex- tending nortli to tlie Nortli Platte, carrying an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. Through the western range, the North Platte canyons, and. on the east, the Medi- cine Bow River cuts through the eastern range, separating it from the foot-hills of the northerly range of the Black Hills. Through the plains flow the Big and Little Laramie Rivers, which, as we before stated, rise in the mountains which border the western rim of the plains. These streams canyon through the Black Hills north of Laramie Peak, and enter the North Platte near Fort Laramie. i Rock Creek rises east of Medicine Bow, and after flowing north to about latitude 42 degs. flows west and empties into the Medicine Bow. This river rises in Medi- cine Bow Mountains, and flows north to about the same latitude as Rock Creek, thence west, and canyons through the Rat- tlesnake range of hills, enteringlhe North Platte about 150 miles nortliwest of Lara- mie City, in latitude 42 deg. 3 min. By this showing it will be observed that the immense park, or Laramie Plains, is well watered — sufficiendy for grazing and irrigation. We have been more explicit, have dwelt longer on thee points than we should have done, did we not feel a desire to show to the emigrant, or to those who are seeking good locations for grazing lands, that the Laramie Plains possess these advantages in an eminent degree. We have wandered far away from the plains in our descriptions, but the grazing lands end not with the plains. The moun- tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, the valleys, blufls, and foot-hills, all pre- sent the same feature in point of luxuriant crops of gras?. The valleys of the streams mentioned also contain thousands of acres of meadow land, where hay can be cut in abundance, and, if the season will permit, wheat, barley and rye might be grown to advantage, the soil being a black loam, and sufficiently moist to insure good crops without irrigation. Fish and Game — Trout — the finest in the world — can be found in every moun- tain stream, while every variety of game ranges over the mountains, hills valleys and plains in countless numbers. With these general remarks, we will re* turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross the Laramie River, and eight miles brings us to Hoivell's — an unimportant station, where passenger trains seldom stop. It is then 7 6-10 miles to W^yoming — on the Little Laramie River. During the building of the road large quantities of ties were received at this point, which were cut at the head of the river and floated down the stream in high water. The country is a broad prai- rie. At the station we crossed Little Lara- mie, a small stream which rises in the mountains to the westward and empties into Laramie River. To the next sta- tion— Hnttoii's — it is 6.9 miles, and 6.6 more to Cooper liake— Near the station, to the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, about two miles long by half-a-mile wide, for which the station is named. liOokont — a station with an altitude of 7,169 feet— is 5 4-10 miles from Cooper Lake. We are now entering the rolling prairie country, where, for 25 miles either way along the road, vast herds of elk, deer and antelope are found at different seasons of tlie year — the elk being mostly found in the winter, when the snow drives them from the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage-brush, which tell us that we have entered the country where this more useful than orna- mental shrub abounds. Occasionally we pass through cuts and over low fills, by snow-fences, and through snow-sheds, the country growing rougher as we pass along 5.7 miles to Harper's — from which it is 6.3 miles to Miser {Station— Sage-brush is the rule. Just before reaching the station, we pass through a very deep cut— one of the deepest on the road— where a lit- Ue spur of the bluffs rises abruptly from the plains, right in the way of the road. Just before reaching the next station, we cross Rock Creek, towards the head of which is good trout Ash- ing. It is 5 1-10 miles to Kock Creek— a small eating sta- tion, on a small creek of the same name. Trains from the east stop for supper, from the west for breakfast, 30 minutes The English language is wonderful for its apt- ness of expression. When a number of men and women get together and look at each other from the sides of a room, that's called a sociable. When a hungry crowd call* upon a poor station keeper and eats him out of house and home, that's called a donation party. 64 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST are allowed for that purpose; and, it is said, the meals served are much improved on those of former years. 'AH travelers appreciate good fare. Leaving the sration, our course now lies to the eastward ; the train w inds around the spurs of the blutfs, which stem to bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough, rolling country, again turning to the westward, over briages and fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 1-10 miles to liVilcox — an unimportant station, and we continue crossing creeks and ravines for 8 4-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- ing and middling heavy road-work, and arrive at x4iirora — formerly Como, a small place. Soon after passing the station we come to Como Lake, a beautilul little sheet of water, lying to the right of the road. It is about one mile long and half- a-mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a "fish with legs." The^e fishaniTna's possess gills something l.ke a cat-fish; are amphibious, being often found crawling clumsily around on land, miles from the lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossl hhells are found around the lake that are gathered in summer by persons who offer tliL^m tor sale to the tourists. Medicine Bow River — is crossed a few miles after leaving Como. It rises in the Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, and empties its waters into the North Platte River. This river was long a noted resort for Indians, and several treaties have been made on its banks between the " noble red men " and their pale-faced '• brothers." The valley of the river, above the railroad, for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- tom-land, until it reaches the base of the mountain From thence to its source the course of the river is through immense forests of pine, whch present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are found in ^reat quantities in the stream, and the various kinds of game which abound in til is countrjr are found in the mountains where the river has its source. Soon after crossing the river, and 7 1-10 mile's from Como, w^e come to jyiedicine Bow — containing several stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- ger station, and a five-stall round-house. Leaving this station, the road is laid over a smooth, level plain, for 7.5 miles, when it enters a rough, hilly. sage-bruali country, and stops at :WileM J unctMin— f rom which the train, winding around through deep cuts and long snow-sheds, for 3 2-10 miles further, to Carbon— Here was discovered the first coal on the Union Pacific Ry . Two veins have been aliened, averaging about ten feet. This coal is used prin- cipally by the Ry. Co, for their locomo- tives—the quality not being so good for domestic use as that mined further west, at Rock Springs and Evanston. The coal is raised from the mine and dumped into the flat-cars, while standing on the track — the shaft of the mine being between the main and side track, close to the station; a stationary engine furnish- ing the hoisting power. Another shaft 18 to the south of the town, a short distance, reached by a railtrack. Carbon contains a population of about 800, and is the county seat of Carbon coun- ty, which contains a population of about :^,000 — most of whom are engaged in stock- raising. Simpson — a small, unimportant side- track,is reached fi.3 miles fromCarbon, after passing through a succession of cuts, many of which are covered with snow- sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The road now curves around, and runs almost due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- tion it is 4 5- 10 miles. Percy — The station was named for Percy T. Brown, an engineer who was killed by the Indians, while employed sur- veying the line. During the construction of the road, this was an important station. Ties, tele- graph poles, wood and bridge timber, were landed at this point in immense quantities. They were obtained at Elk Mountain, seven miles to the south. The old stage ^ road winds around the base of the moun- tain, between that and the railroad. Near the foot of the mountain, old Fort Hal leek and one of the most important stations of the Overland Stage Company, were located ; both are now abandoned. Elk Mountain — is a noted, landmark, and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises to a great height, its top being covered, with snow a great portion of the year, and at any time snow can be found in places on the summit. It has the appear- ance of being an isolated peak, though, reall}', it is the extreme northern spur of the Medicine Bow Mountains. It is, how- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 65 SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLONES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. ever, surrounded by rolling prairie land, and seems to rise boldly from it, rough, rugged and alone. On the west side, the summit is easily reached by a good road, made by the lumbermen. The mountain is nearly round, about six miles in diame- ter at its base. Its sides are covered with dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock. It is worthy of note, that this is the only point where the latter species of timber is found along the line of the road. It grows in profusion with the spruce in the gorges, near the summit. To the south is a fine valley, about 15 miles wide and 20 miles long. Pass Creek, which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- tains, runs through this valley on its way to the North Platte River. Large quantities of hay are cut in the bottom' lands along the creek. This stream, like all others which rise iri this range, is full of fine trout and other fish. Antelope abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears and mountain sheep, while mountain lions find their homes in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of the mountain. ]>ana — is an unimportant station 6- 1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road is built down the valley of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali water are the only objects that greet the eye — perhaps an unpleasant greeting. Kd son— for many years known as St. Mary's— is 7 5-10 miles from Dana. Soon after leaving the station, our 66 CBOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST train enters the ravine, where the bluffs as- sume more formidable features; in fact, the ravine becomes a gorge, the rugged spurs shooting out as tliough they would reach the opposite wall, and bar out farther progress. The first one of these spurs does indeed bar our way, or did until a tunnel was completed. Before this tunnel was finished, the company laid the road around the point of the spur on a temporary track. Emerging from the tunnel, the train rushes down the gorge, the wall now rising close abrupt and high, on either hand, and 7 8-10 miles from St. Mary's we arrive at and pass Woleott's — an unimportant station. Down, down we go — the rough spurs point out from either wall of the canyon, an indenture in one bank marking a pro- jection on the other. While looking on this scene, one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was not; that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks in twain, leaving these rag- ged walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. Suddenly we whirl out of the mouth of this chasm — out on the level lands of the North Platte River — cross a substantial wooden bridge, and slop at Fort Fred. Steele— 5 9-10 miles west of Wolcot's ; elevfttion, 6,840 feet. This fort was established June 30th, 1868, by four companies of the 30th In- fantry, under command of Brevet Col. R. I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. Wlien the posts in the Powder River country were abandoned, the great bulk of the military stores were hauled to this place and stored for future use. About, two miles west of Fort Steele formerly stood Benton City — now entirely abandoned. The road was completed to this point the last of July, 1868. At that time a large amount of freight for Montana, Idaho, Utah, and the western country was re- shipped in wagons at this point, and dur- ing August and September the place pre- sented a lively aspect, which continued until the road was finished to Bryan, the first of October. Benton at that time was composed of canvas tents ; about 3,000 peo- ple of all kinds made the population ; a harder set it would be impossible to find- roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the same thing), fast women, and the usual actrom- paniments of the railroad towns, flourished here in profusion. There were high old times in Benton then, but as the road stretched away to the westward, the people "packed up their tents and stole noiselessly away," leaving only a few old chimneys and post^holes to mark the spot of the once flourishing town. Whiskey was the prin- cipal drink of the citizens, it being the most convenient, as all the water used had to be hauled from the Platte River, two miles distant, at an expense of one dollar per barrel, or ten cents per bucket-full. At Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to the canyon of the Platte near Fort Steele, are plainlv visible and will continue in sight until we near Rawlins. They are of gray sandstone, worn, marked by the waters or by the elements, far up their perpendicular sides. They are on the opposite side of the river, the banks on the west side being comparatively low. At this point the river makes a bend, and for several miles we seem to be running down the river, parallel with it, though really drawing away fi om the stream. To the south is a long, high ridge of grey granite, called the " Hog Back." It is about four miles away from the road, and runs parallel with it for about 15 miles, terminating in the highlands of Rawlins Springs. It is very narrow at the base, not exceeding half-a-mile in width, yet it rises from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. The ridge is so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and in many places it is all but impracticable for a mauto^attempt to walk along its summit. Where thia.ridge reaches the river bank, about two and a half miles above the bridge, the walls are perpendicular and very high, from 1,000 to 1,500 feet. A corresponding bluff" on the opposite side shows that the river has cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the progress of the waters. On the south side of the ridge is a very prqtty little valley, through which flows a small creek into the Platte. It furnishes fine grazing, and is in marked contrast to the surrounding country. Many years ago this green and peaceful looking vale was the scene of a fearful bat- tle between the Sioux and their inveterate enemies, the Utes. The Sioux were encamped in the valley, and were surprised by the Utes, who stole on them in the grey light of the morning, and attacked them furi- ously. Though taken by surprise, the Sioux fought bravely, but -were surrounded and overpowered. When trying to escape, they essayed to cross the " Hog Back," but every one who raised his head above wm ,% Vvv.\',. c the Flagstaff Mine, which is about the same height above the road. The town of Alta is at the bottom of the canyon 200 feet lower than the end of the railroad sun*ounded with mountain peaks, which are covered with snow eight months of the year, and at all times surrounded with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It contains about 500 population, all of whom are engaged in mining and kindred pursuits. There are several stores, express, telegraph, and postoffice, besides several small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. To the north, over the mountain two miles is the Big Cottonwood Canyon ; to the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, and American Fork Canyon ; Forest City is four miles. Three miles east by trail is Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water — the angler's paradise. The principal mines near Alta are, the Emma, Flagstaff, Grizzly, Nabob, Kate Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie, Prince of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within five miles. The business of the railroad is the transportation of ores and supplies to and from the mines. Hundreds of cars are loaded dail^ with ore that is taken to the valley to be smelted or are sent to San Francisco, the East, or to Swansea, Wales. For novel methods of hauling ore to the depot, see Annex No. 24. The sheds over the railroad are seven miles in length, and are made in various styles of architecture, more for business than beauty, the style being adopted accord- ing to circumstances. They are, however, in all places constructed of heavy material, rocks, round or sawed timber, and built in the most substantial manner. Inone place they are in the shape of a letter A, sharp peaked ; in other places, nearly upright on each side, one side higher than the other, with a sloping roof. Again the lower hill- side is built with a little slope toward the up hill side, and long heavy timbers from the top of these uprights slope up onto the mountain side, resting on a solid granite foundation leveled to a uniform grade, for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted, there is danger of snow-slides which are more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a number of times since the sheds were con- structed, and each time, the snow and rocks passed over the shed into the canyon below, without causing one cent's worth of damage to the road or shed. The length of this road, where it is oper- ated with mules, is seven miles long. As before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the mile ; the curves are in places 80 degrees, and not, as once stated in the " Railway Age,^'' 30 curves and 600 foot gauge. But we suppose that Col. Bridges, when he wrote that, was thinking about those "broad gauge mules." Returning, the mule power that took us up is no longer in demand ; the knight of the whip now mans the brakes, and away we go around the Age's 30 curves, to the valley below, "change cars" at Sandy, and are once more headed for the south, on the Utah Southern railroad. A short distance south, we pass the Mcintosh Sampling mill, on the west and another on the east. Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- sented in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling company to give certificates of their value, and then the ore is sold at the certificate rates. One mile further is the Mingo Smelter of the Penn. Lead Co. 96 CBOPUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The land, is more rolling, as we approach Draper — This is not a very important station to the tourist, but to the few vil- lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little canyon beside the mountains on the left, it is a Mg institution. Draper is four miles from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake City. Leaving Draper, our course is east and after crossing South Willow Creek, turns more to the south, and finally to the west, having kept around the foot of the moun- tains, which here make a full half-circle. In the distance around, there are many cuts and some hard work, and we queriedf, why the road was built around, when the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across where there was very little work to be done? In answer, we were told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the side of the moun- tain, by " revelations If that is so, we con- clude that the revelation came from the same " deity " that took our Savior up on the Mount, but as it is not " our funeral," we will not criticise. The lower point of the great curve is called the ''Point of theMountain." At the point where the railroad is built around, the track is about 300 feet above a little round valley to the west, in which is lo- cated a hot spring, marked by a brown burned patch of land and rising, steam As our train curves around this point, a most charming view can be had ; one of the finest on the road. The valley is here nearer, to the northward the view in unob- structed for 50 miles ; to the south, Utah Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great Lower Basins. Passing through numerous cuts and around ihe point, the train curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand curve around the rim of the basin, in which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. Nearly opposite the " point of the moun- tain" is a low divide in the Oquirrh Range on the west, over which the road leads to Camp Floyd. Continuing along through sand cuts, sage and an occasional farm,"l4 miles from Draper we arrive at Lehi — This town is situated in the midst of a perfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and gardens, with the waters of Dry Canyon Creek running through all the streets, and contains a population of about 1,500, includ- ing those living in the immediate vicinity. The good results of irrigating sage-brush land, are here demonstrated by the large crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables produced, where, before the land was irri- gated, nothing but sage-brush and grease^ wood were to be seen. Three miles further is American Fork — a station 34 miles from Salt Lake City — the " banner " town for free schools; the prst in the Terri- tory, having been established here in 1869. The streets are wide, with the waters of Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- ican Fork Canyon, running through them, and the orchards, gardens and farms in the neighborhood making an attractive and beautiful town. The population numbers about 1,600, the greater portion of whom are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The American Fork House, opposite the sta- tion, is the principal hotel, and Robert Keppeneck is one of the joUiest of German hosts. To the southwest of the station, a com- pany is engaged in building a dam across the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- ted will extend north 20 miles, winding around the base of the Wasatch, near our road, keeping as far up on the side of the mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- nal will be taken out for the west side of the Jordan, with a view of taking the water all over the lands as far north as Salt Lake City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract of sage land between the Jordan River at Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at the foot of Salt Lake. From this station a road branches off to the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, called the American Fork Railroad. [Since the following description was written, the iron track of this road has been removed, and the road abandoned.] This was a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- road, 15 miles in length ; commenced May, 1872, and completed 12 miles during the year. The grade for the whole distance is heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly to the east, and fol- lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- sortment of sage brush, sand ana boulders, for six miles to the mouth of the Canjron. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the Wasatch to an alti- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 9^ THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDKNCE. tude of 11,011 feet above the sea. From the mouth of the canyon, about two miles north, is the little village of Al- pine, containing about 350 agriculturalists. Entering the canyon, the passage is quite narrow between the towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in height, leaving only about 100 feet be- tween, through which the road is built, and a sparkling little stream comes rip- pling down ; the road, on its way up, cross- ing and re-crossing the stream many times. Our train is rapidly climbing, but the canyon walls seem to be much more rap- idly rising, and at a distance of one, two and three miles, gain an additional 500 feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet above the road bed. In places these cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, seamed in places as though built up • from the bed of the canyon by successive layers, some as thin as a knife blalde, others much thicker; then again, the rocks have the appearance of iron slag, or dark colored lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the eye every conceivable angle and fan- tastic shape — a continuous, ever-changing panorama. Imagine, then, this canvon with its grottoes, amphitheatres, and its towering crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- enngfar above the road, overhanging it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, spruce and cedar trees growing in all the nooks and gulches and away np on the sum- mit; then countless mosses and ferns cling- ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- hold can be secured, together with the mil- lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun*8 rays are sifted through countless objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below, with its miniature cascades and ed- dies. We say imagine all these things, and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and romantic, picturesque and glorious American Fork Canyon. Proceeding on up, up, around sharp crags, under the very overhanging moun- tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, and *' Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round aperture, through whichL the sky beyond can be plainly seen ; thfe hole is called the *' Dev- il's Eye." About three miles from the mouth of the canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging Rock. (See illustration page 15.) Close above, on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately opposite "Sled-runner Curve;" — an inverted vein of rock in the side of the perpendicular cliff, resembling a sled-runner — possibly this is the Devil's sled-runner ; who knows ? Along crofutt's new overland tourist. here the rock seams are badly mixed, and run at all angles— horizontal, lon- gitudinal and "through other." Haif- a-mile farther we come to "Eainbow Cliff," on the right ; opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like a knife-blade, 300 ft. ; a little farther on to the right, comes in the South Fork, on which are several saw mills. Keeping to the left, and soon after passing the SouthFork a look back down this wonderful canon affords one of the grandest of views ; we cannot describe it, but will have it engraved for future volumes. One mile farther, and the train stops at the end of the track, at Deer Creek.— Near this station the hills are bare of trees, but covered with shrubs of different kinds, sage and moss predominating ; the gulches and ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. The chief business of this road was in connection with the mines above, among which are the Smelter's Sultana, Wild Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting Works are four miles farther up and the mines seven. Opposite the station, in a cosy little nook, is located the Mountain Glen House, where the tourist will find his wants anticipated, and plans can be matured for a ramble over the moun- tain peaks; and there are a number of little tours that can be made from this point each day that will well pay for a week's time devoted to this locality. When returning to the valley, then it is that the view is most grand, and the ride one beyond the powers of man with his best goose-quill to de- scribe. Make the tour of the Ameri- can Fork, and our word for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life descends upon a ripe old age. At American Fork station we again enter the cars on the Utah Seuthern, and start once more for the south. Kolling along three miles brings our train to DONXER LAKE nOATlXO PARTY. THE VALLEY OV THE YET PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 99 FOREST VIEW — THE FOOT HILLS OF CALIFORNIA. Pleasant Grove — properly named. In early days it was known as " Battle Creek "—so-called from a fight the early settlers once had here with the Utes. It is a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded with orchards and gardens of fruit, with water flowing through every street. Herds of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the surrounding hills. Eleven miles around, on the rim of the basin, across some sage and some well- cultivated land, our train stops at Provo — This is a legularly incorporated city, with all the requisite municipal offi- cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, which was first settled in 1849. Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- tains an increasing population of 4,000. This place has several fine hotels, chief of which is the Excelsior House. The court-house and public buildings of the city are very good, and all kinds of business is represented here. The princi- pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen Mills, three flour and three saw mills. Provo River, which is formed by nu- merous small streams, to the eastward, af- fords the best water power of any stream in Utah. The woolen mill is a noted feature of the city ; the buildings number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost, complete, ready for business, $210,000. There are in the mill four "mules " with 3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding $200,000 per annum. The Mormons have a veiy capacious tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brig- ham Young Academy is located here. 100 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST which was amply endowed by presi- dent Brigham Young some years be- fore his death. A regular stage leaves for Provo Valley, 20 miles to eastward on the arrival of trains. Utah Lake— is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and 6 miles wide ; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Span- ish Fork, Hobble, Saltand Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jor- dan river, which runs north and emp- ties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. Passing along through a well culti- vated section of country, for five miles, we arrive at Spbingville — This place was named from a warm spring which flows from Hobble Canon, above the town. Pop. 1,500. The water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring mill, where- by the mill is enabled to run all sear- sons of the year. So much for a hot spring. In Pleasant Valley, 50 miles east,are located vast beds of coal, said to be of the best coking quality, large quantities of which are used at the various smelting works in Utah, and for domestic purposes in Salt Lake City and adjoining towns. In 1878 the Utah & Pleasant Valley R'y Co. was organized for the purpose of handling this coal, and the road was soon built to the mines. In 1881 this road was bought by the Denver & Rio Grande Western Ry., who are extending the road to the Valleys .of Kanab, the Gunnison and ultimately connects with the Colorado system of narrow gauge roads, forming another through line from Salt Lake Valley eastward. Grading is being done northward from Springville, parallel with the Utah Southern, to Salt Lake City, and everything that money and mus- cle can do is being done to complete the road in 1883. Hobble Creek Caiion, just east of Springville, was so named by the first Mormons in 1847, who found there a set of old Spanish hobbles. Rolling along for five miles further through a well- cultivated land, we arrive at Spanish Fork— a village of 1,800 pop- ulation, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pasjtoral pursuits. The town is to the left of the road on the banks of the Spanish Fork River. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens ; on the table- lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent ; wheat is also a good crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- ingly fine, and trout are found in great num. hers in all the mountain streams, as well as in the ]ake. Continuing on through rich farm land, eight miles brings our train to Payson — This is an incorporated city of about 2,200 population, situated to the left of the road, and near the southern end of Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- to-do, and do not trouble themselves much about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- nese question." Large quantities of ore are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. Three miles further, and tMO and a half miles eastward, is a beautiful little place called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily in beside the mountain and a little lakelet of similar name. This villa is noted for its abundant and superior fruit of various kinds, where is located a large canning establishment. Five miles further, through less valuable lands than those to the northward, and we arrive at Santaquin — which is a very important point. It contains a population of about 2,000, and is a point from which all pas- sengers, mails, express and freight, leave for the Tintic mining regions, to the west- ward. Here, too, will be found stage lines for the different mining towns and camps. To Goshen the distance is six miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver City, 16 miles ;^and Eureka, 21 miles. The Tintic district furnished at this sta- tion, in 1879, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- tite iron ore for shipment to the different smelting furnaces to the northward, for a flux in the manipulation of ores. York— is 75 miles from Salt Lake City, and is a station of very little importance, four miles from Santa- qin. A few miles further, to the right are the Hot Springs in which were found the bodies of the Aiken party who were murdered in 1857. To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with his cap of snow, to an altitude of 12,000 feet. Mono— To the left, is a small ham- let. The Juab Valley commences at York, averages about three miles in PACIFIC COAST. iGi)fi)K. 101 L,i»_, » ]* « * YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2,634 FEET FALL, YO-SEMITE VALLEY. width, and is 36 miles in length, gener- ally good land and well cultivated. Nephi — Is a city of 2,000 population, from which stages run regularly to San Pete, 80 miles, and Kanab, 195 miles, passing through many small villages and raining camps. Juab— is an eating station. 30 miles from York. Here a large amount of freight is shipped on wagons for the villages to the eastward, and stages leave regularly for Sipio, 22 miles ; Fil- morc,47 miles,and Corn Creek,60 miles Juab is the end of the Utah South- ern, and the commencement of its Extension. Soon after leaving Juab— named for the county of Juab— we cross Chicken Creek, and in about three miles come to the Sevier Kiver, where the hills come close together,f orming a canyon The Sevier is a crooked, muddy, sluggish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless country crossing it often for 52 miles, to Des- eret, a station situated a few miles east of the Sevier River, which is here dammed for irrigating purposes. Leaving Deseret — where breakfast is served going north — we pass over a broad, level stretch of desert country, traversed by great numbers of irrigat- ing ditches, from the dam aforesaid,, but the waters are so strong and the soil so impregnated with alkali, that the aforesaid wilderness fails to blos- som, except with sage and grease- wood. The road crosses the edge of Sevier Lake, on a raised track, the salt deposits of which are very strong. The scenery along this road,belo w the Sevier canyon, is not very striking — unless one is anxious to be struck. MiLFORD— is reached, 69 miles from Deseret and 226 miles south from Salt Lake City. It is on Beaver River, pop- ulation abaut 200, the end of the Utah Southern Railroad, from which large quantities of freight are shipped for Southern Utah. Stages run to Miners- 102 •CRO:*tJTT'S-NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Tille, 16 mil^s; Maryg;vjne..l6, miles; Beaver, 37 miles ; Silver Eeef, 96 miles ; St. George, 114 miles, and Pioche, 120 miles. At Milf ord is located one quartz mill and one smelting furnace. To the westward, 16 miles, by a branch rail- road is Frisco— a mining town of about 1000 population, near the celebrated Horn Silver Mine. The "Frisco mines" are said to be exceedingly rich in silver and lead. The ores are galena, yield- ing from $15 to $1 ,500 per ton of silver, and from 20 to 40 per centum of lead. Heavy investments of eastern capital have been made in these mines, and vigorous efforts are making to soon work them by the latest and most im- proved methods. The Horn Silver, Oarbonate and Mountain Queen are the best known and developed mines. Returningito Zion we will take a run over the Utah liVeistern Railroad. This road is a late acquisition of the Union Pacific Eailway Co. It is a three lootnarrowgauge,commencedinl874, and was completed 12 miles during the year. In 1875 about 13 miles more were finished, and in 1877 it was ex- tended to within two miles of Stock- ton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City. The depot in Salt Lake City is lo- cated one-half mile west of the Utah ■Central, on the same street. The route is due west, crossing the Jordan River the first mile, about half a mile south of the wagon road bridge, thence 12 miles to the Hot Springs, at the northeast point of the Oquirrh Mountains. This 12 miles is built across the level bottom land, the ma- jor portion of which is covered with sage-brush and greasewood, with an occasional patch of "bunch" and alka- li grasses. The soil in most parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand. Some sand beds are no- ticeable, and near the Hot Springs a (deposit of alkali with yellow clay. The length of this land belt is about Similes, of which the first 15 will av- erage ten miles wide, the balance av- eraging five miles wide, and extend- ing south to Utah Lake, and when properly irrigated— as we have here- tofore noted, a plan now being car- ried out for so doing— it will be aspro- ■ductive as the same number of acres in the valleyof the famous River Nile, in Egypt. Herds of cattle and sheep now roam over these bottom lands, as well as jack rabbits by the legion. Near the hot springs, on the left, no- ticeable from the amount of steam ris- ing and the brown burned appear- ance of the ground, are some comfort- able little farm-houses, and a few well appearing farms. The hot springs spo- ken of are fresh and produce a large creek of water. Near,are several store houses, and a place called Millstone, from the fact that at this point the first millstones were quarried in the Terri- tory. There are no accommodations, at present, near, for tourists to stop over. Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train gradu- ally approaches the lake, and five miles from Millstone we are at Black Rock — This station is just af- ter passing a high rocky cliff on the right, and derives its name from a black-looking rock sitting out in the lake 300 feet distant, and 50 feet high. Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, the highest cliff is known as "Ob- servation Point," so named from the unobstructed view which can be had from its summit. Antelope, or Church Island, to the northeast,is 14 miles dis- tant,Kimbairs,22 ; Goose Creek Moun- tains, northwest 100 ; West Mountain, west 15; Oquirrh, close to the south, while the view to the southwest ex- tends to the great rim of the basin, 17 miles distant. On Church Island large herds of cattle range, and some mines of gold, slate, and copper have been discovered. On CarringtonIsland,op- positeBlackRock,aslate mine of good quality has been discovered, which has been traced 4,500 ft. Opposite the station, away up in the side of the mountain, is the ''Giant's Cave— an oi)ening extend- ing several hundred ft. into tne moun- tain side, with a ceiling ranging in height from 10 to 75 feet, from which hang stalactites of great beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the an- cient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi- tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years ago, two tribes of Indians were at wartvith each AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 10$ other, and that the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould- ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"— and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Leaving Black Rock,our train skirts the lake for a distance of one mile and stops at Garfield. — Of all the bathing places in and about Salt Lake, this is the best. The veteran Cap. Douri's— who by the way has become quite a "land-lubber" —is located here, having dismantled his steamer. Gen. Garfield, and con- verted it into a first-class floating ho- tel. To take a run out from Salt Lake City, secure a state-room on the Gar- field, sleep on the bosom of the "Dead Sea," and with the "Captain's gig" ex- plore its mysteries, bathe in its won- derful waters, is one of the luxuries that the traveler visiting Utah should never miss. In fact it is worth along journey to enjoy. Baron von Hum- boldt, in speaking of the marvelous grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur of Comoand Killarney combined." Lake Point— is two miles from Gar- field, is another bathing place, where the traveler will find fair accommoda- tions at the "Short Branch Hotel." Black Rock, Garfield, and Lake Point, are in summer great resorts for pic-nic parties from Zion, who come out, take a trip over the lake, have a swim and a ramble up the mountains, "make a day of it," and returi^ to the city in the evening. Game in the mountains and on the plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and smaller game, are to be had for the necessary effort; ducks are abun- dant six miles to the eastward, and fish,— Tiflr?/ one. The mountains are about 1,000 feet above the road, have rounded peaks, covered with small trees, in places, sage and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, near the summit. Leaving the Point, our course is more to the southward, along the side of the lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, irrigated by water from the mountain on the left. Turning more to the left, and draw- ing away from the lake, the road fol- lows along a few miles from the base of the mountains,beside which is located the small Mormon village of "E. T. Ci- ty"— named after E. T. Bensen, one of the early settlers. Four and a half miles from the "Point" comes the Half- WayHouse— near,is a flouring, and woolen mill. On the opposite side of the valley, west, is the town of Grantsville, eight miles distant. It lies in one of the richest agricultural sections of the state ; population,2,000. In the background is the West Moun- tain Range, which rears its peaks full 2,000 ft. above the town, and in whick are located some very rich mines of silver. Beyond these mountains is. Skull Yalley— so named for an Indian flght which once occurred there, after which the ground was left covered with bones. Passing on, to the left,. note the waterlines on the side of the- mountain. Tooele— is six miles from the last, and is the nearest station to the thriv- ing town of Tooele, which is situated to the left about two miles, beside th& mountain. The principal business of the citizens is agriculture and fruit raising. It is considered the best fruit and vegetable districtin the Territory. Tooele is the county scat of Tooele county ; population about 2,500. Along the base of the mountain the land is ir- rigated from little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges, the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake below. About 10 miles over the mo un- tain,to the southeast, is located Bing- ham City. Leaving Tooele, sage small cedars, bunch-grass and herds of stock abound. The road is on a high plateau, curv- ing with the mountain more to the westward, and some miles below the the lower end of the lake. As we near the lower portion to the great valley, which lays on our right, the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards be- low the end of the track, rises 500 feet, completely locking in the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle ex- tending in a great arch from Oquirrh Range on the east, to meet the range on the west, one great bend, full five miles in curvature. Here, at the base- of this rim, terminates the railroad* 104 crofutt's new overland tourist. The Grand " Yellowstone Park, On the south side of this rim, which, on the top, is less than one-half a mile in width, is located the city of Stockton— two miles distant from the end of the railroad. To reach Stockton by rail a 1000-foot tunnel must be drove through this rim, ex- clusive of approaches. Stockton is now reached by stage, which also extends its route to Dry Canyon, and the Ophir raining dis- tricts to the south and west. Dis- tances from Stockton to Ophir, southeast, 10 miles ; to Dry Can- yon, southeast, 12 miles; to Salt Lake City, 39.5 miles. Stockton isin Tooele county,in the northeast corner of Rush Val- ley, andabout one-half mile east of Rush Lake — a sheet of fresh water two miles long and half inile wide. The town contains three smelting furnaces, several .stores,hotels, and about 80 dwell- ings, with a population — by tak- ing in the surroundings —of 600. The Waterman Furnace is close in the eastern edge of the town; the Jacob's Smelter about half a mile west, at the head of the lake, and the Chicago Smelter about ' me mile southwest, on the east- ern bank of the lake. The ores 'ome from the several mining districts in the vicinity. Rush Valley is one of the class of valleys so often found in the Salt Lake and Nevada Basins- only varying in size. This is 10 miles in length and about three ill width— land-locked, surround- ed by mountain ranges, with a lake in the center and no visible outlet. New Railways. — We should judge from present appearances that all Utah will soon be "riding on a rail," as the "boom" for rail- road building struck the terri- tory in 1881. From the various documents on file with the Audi- tor of the Territory,it would seem that every canyon and water- course would be paralleled with a rail track,and there would hard- ly be a "sheep ranch" without a railway station. It is said the Union Pacific Railway Com- pany will construct 1000 miles track at an early day, and that they are now "throwing dirt" in sev- eral places. July 21, 1881, the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway Co. filed on routes aggregating 2,370 miles. This new company is virtually the same as the Denver & Rio Grande of Colorado, and it is designed to con- nect the two lines at an early day. At this time work is being pushed vigor- ously, both from the east and west. of PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 105 Eeturning- to Salt Lake, "change cars " for Ogden, and again we take a look at the Great Overland trains. But we cannot think of neglecting to take a trip over the Utah & Xortliern Branch Union Pacific Railway. (IDAHO DIVISION.) W. B. DoDDBlDGE Ogden, Supt. R. Blickensderfeb, Pocatello, Idaho, Biv. Supt. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced March 29th, 1872, and extended at different times to Franklin, 78 miles, in 1874. In the spring of 1878 work was again com- menced and the road completed 181 miles to Blackfoot, on Snake River, ten miles above old Fort Hall, and during the year 1879 to Beaver Canyon, 93 miles, 274 miles from Ogden. Work has continued since, and the trains are now (Jan., 1883,) fully equipped with palace cars and all modern im- provements, running to Deer Lodge, 442 miles from Ogden. The "Oregon Short Line," noted on page 76, when completed will con- nect with this road at Pocatello, 158 miles north from Ogden. Another branch has been surveyed and will leave this road at Blackfoot and pass through Idaho via the Wood River Mines to Oregon. Trains leave Ogden opposite the Union Depot to the eastward and skirt the western edge of the city, across rich, broad, and well-cultiva- ted fields, orchards and gardens, with the Wasatch Mountains towering to the right. From Ogden depot it is five miles to Harrisvllle, an unimportant sta- tion, from which it is four miles to Hot Springs, where will be found a large hotel and extensive bathing accommodations. Here is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. In cold weather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visi- ble a long distance. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances, and the odor arising is very strong, and by no means pleasant for some people to inhale. This spring is close on the right of the road, and besides the steam continually arising from it, is marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. From the cars an occasional glimps of Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- merous islands, lifting their peaks far iar above the lariny waters. The views will be very imperfect; but as we near Promontory Point, and after leaving that place, excellent views can be obtained. On the left, only a few hundred yards away, can be «een the track of the Cen- tral Pacific — and near, the unimportant station of Bonneville on that road. Near are some fine farming lands, which yield large crops of wheat, barley and corn. With the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest con- tinually rising around us Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sun- dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is the old water-mark of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mountain sides sev- eral hundred feet above us. The o\ d water- line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine shells still attest the fact that once the wa- teis of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake have had three dif- ferent altitudes before they reached their present level. We are gradually rising up on to a high bench and will continue along near the base of the mountains for the next thirty miles. In places the view will be grand. The Great Lake at the southwest with its numerous islands in the distance, the well- cultivated fields in the foreground, together with the orchards and rippling rills from the mountain springs, which we cross every few minutes, make a beautiful picture; then back of all, on the east, rises the Wa- satch, peak upon peak, towering to the skies. From the last station it is 15 miles to Willard — This is a quiet Mormon town of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine buildings, but the greater portion are built of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most of the fences are of small willows inter- woven through large willow stakes stuck in the ground. The mountains near this town present indications which would as. 106 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ENTERING THE PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT. sure the " prospector " that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this countrjr with its lurid fires, most effectualy demolishing many philo- sophical theories, leaving their origina- nators to study nature more and hooks less. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- late appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many years had elapsed since it was in active operation. Leaving Willard, our course is more to the left, with broad fields and some fine dwellings; then a strip of sage and alkali; and seven miles north we reach Brigham — This is the county seat of Box Elder county, situated near the mouth of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. Like Willard, it nestles close under the shadow of the Wasatch, and is embowered in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. From Brigham our course is more to the left, following around the great arc of the mountains, as well as the old Montana stage road. Call's Fobe — is 7 miles from Brig- ham, and is a little collection of houses, close in beside the mountain on the right. All around this mountain base are, at intervals, springs— some are cold and some are very hot-water — well-cultivated fields and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush knolls, rich soil and large crops; then occur iDarren waste and nary shrub. Two and a half miles further is HoNEYViLLE — ^Ah! here we have it ! a dozen stone and adobe houses on a sagebrush honey. Bear River and valley is now on the left, as is also the city of CEOFUTT S NEW OVERIiAND TOURIS3 lOT Corinne, about six miles distant to the southwest. When this road was first built, a track extended to Corinne, which has in later years been taken up and abandoned, the why ! I will never tell you. Deweyville is five miles further, around which, are some good farms and a gristmill. Curving around the point of the mountain and heading for the north, up Bear Valley, the grade increases ; sage is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the mountain gorges, and up we climb. To the west on the opposite side of Bear Eiver, about five miles above the station, is lo- cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 100 in number. Their tepees — lodges — can be plainly seen. These Indians took up this land in 1874, under the pre-emption laws of the United States, and abandoned their tribal relations. They own some large herds of cattle and bands of horses, and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. Passing on up a heavy graae through deep cuts for six miles and we are at CoLLiKSTON— formerly Hamptons, a side track station of no importance to the tourist. Just before reaching this station, the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the val- ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north, six miles the Bear River canyons through a low spur of the Wasatch which reaches away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, and Malad River ; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley, imme- diately to the west of where we stand ; then flow close together down the valley to the south parallel lor ten miles before they unite, in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this valley rise the long range of the Malad Mountains, which, commencing near Corinne, runs nearly north to opposite this point, and then bears away to the northwest. Only a small portion of the lands in the Bear or Malad valleys are cultivated; cattle and sheep are plenty. Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100 foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through which Bear River canyons a few miles to the northward. Finally the Summit — is reached and passed four miles from Collinston and we curve to the jeast and then to the south, around the nar- row spur alluded to, which separated Bear Valley from Cache Valley. From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache Valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in Utah Territory. The valley heads in th»^ Wasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, to where it intersects- Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- tant. The Logan River runs through the lower portion of this valley, and is com- posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, and Logan creeks, making a stream of" ample volume to irrigate all the land in the valley, much of which is yet open for pre-emption. In an ordinary season the shipments- from this valley average 500 car-loads of wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- loads of potatoes, most of which go ta California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels^ to the acre. Mendon — is the first station from the- Summit, 6.5 miles' distant, on the west side of the valley, and contains about 700^ population. From Mendon our course is due east to- Logan, across the valley, which runs north and south, but before we start, let us note- the towns situated on the arc, around the upper portion of the valley. The first ia^ Wellsville, six miles south, on the west side, population 1,300. Paradise comes- next, with a population of 500. Continu- ing around to the east and then north, is- Hyrum, population 1,400. Next come» Millville, population 600 ; and then Provi. dence, population 550. This latter village^ is the first south of Logan. Looking north from Mendon, northeast- of the point where we crossed the ridge at Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, ia- located the village of Newton, population. 300 ; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- ulation 500; next six miles is Weston, pop- ulation 500 ; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- ulation 300; then Oxford, seven miles, pojp-^ ulation 250. These are all Mormon vil- lages, are all surrounded with well-culti* vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens,., with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- ing mountains rippling through all the- streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant ; and, taking them all in all, they are prosperous^ and thriving communities, in which each, one of the community seems to strives to ad- vance the good of all. They are an in^ 108 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. -dustrious, hard-working, self-reliant and apparently contented people, always living within their means. The population of the Talley is upwards of 15,000. Leaving Mendon to cross the valley, we pass through a farm of 9,643 acres, upon which were 30 miles of fencing, houses and out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- ident Brigham Young, just before his death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- lege at Logan City, to be called " Brigham Young College." The trustees are leasing the lands — of which there are no better in the Territory — for the purpose of creating a tund to curry out the bequest. These lands are the most valuable in tlie Terri- tory. Crossinff Logan River, our train «tops at the city of Logan — This city is the county seat of Oache county, situated on the east side of ■Cache Valley, just below the mouth of Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in the valley — containing a population of -about 3,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Water runs through the streets from the mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits ^and flowers abound. The citj contains two flouring mills, a woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- pair shops, one hotel — the Logan House — -and a branch of the Z. C. M. I., besides various small mechanical establishments. "The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and «eats 2,500 people. On the east side of the city, a round plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- jecting out from the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. This plateau is about 500 feet in width, and shaped like the end of a monster canal boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the point, and looking west, the city is close at our feet, the broad valley beyond, and in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, over which we came from Bear Valley. To the right and left, the vallev is spread out in all its beauty, and no less than 14 towns and villages are in sight, surrounded with mountain ranges, which rise, range upon range, and peak overtonping peak, the highest of which are robed in a per- petual mantle of snow. The view is one of the most beautiful that one could con- •ceive. Upon this plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four adjoin- ing counties, have elected to build a mag- nificent temple, in which to conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon church. The main building will be of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, and 86 feet high, with a grand tower 144 feet high from base to pinnacle, and will cost, when completed, in about four years, $450,000 to $500,000. Around the outer rim of the plateau, a double row of trees have been set out, and the water from the mountain above con- ducted in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. Leaving Logan, our road runs north, along the base of the Wasatch Mountains — having made a great horse-shoe curve from the summit. From Logan it is five miles to Hyde Park Station — The town of Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the mountain, one mile distant, and contains a population of about 800. Two mile further, and after crossing Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- wood trees, comes Smithfield— This is a town of 1,200 population, a short distance to the right of the road. Six miles further is Richmond — another town of 1,200 people, on the right, beside the mountain. These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- roundin^s, and the description of one is a description of all. They all have water running through the streets, orchards ard gardens, and are all laid out with wide streets, by the side of which are rows of trees and good walks. Lewistown — is another small village of 400 people, situated on the opposite side of the valley, four miles distant. Nine miles further and we reach the station for Franklin — This town is one mile north of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, consequently, is in Idaho Tejritorjr ; popu- lation about 400. It is situated m Cache Valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb Creek about one mile from the station to the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains. The county seat of Oneida county is Malad City 40 miles due west. The vil- lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- ford, and Clifton— heretofore alluded to — are to the westward of Franklin, from ten to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles east, over the mountains, are the towns of Paris, Montpelier and Bennington, aggre- gating a population of about 1,000. From Franklin, we turn westward and CROFUTT'8 NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 109 cross Chubb and Worm Creeks, along which are some line farming lands ; pass through a number of deep cuts and tind Bear River on our left, far below our road, with narrow bottom lands on each side. The road turns north and runs up on the east bank of the river a few miles where it crosses to the west and stops at a small side track called Battle Creek — twelve miles from Franklin. Soon after leaving the station the road turns west up Connor's Canyon, where, in the winter of 18(j3-4, Gen. Connor had his celebrated fight with the Shoshone Indians. At the time of this fight there was two foot of snow on the ground, and the weather very cold. The Indians — some hundreds — were hid in the Canyon among the willows along the Creek, and in the cedars to the right along the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops, the Indians were completely overcome, and with few exceptions, none were left alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still' to be seen near fhe station. In ascending the Canyon the gr^de is heavy, deep cuts are numerous, sage brush abounds, and the country is very broken, only adapted to stock raising. About Oxford— in Marsh Valley, eleven miles from Battle Creek, are a few well cultivated farms, and herds of cattle and sheep range around the bluffs. Swan Lake — is the next station, just be- low a small sheet of water of that name, in which sport, at certain seasons of the year, numbers of swans. The Malad Mountains border the valley on the west, beyond which is Malad Valley and river of same name, also Malad City, 20 miles distant. Pass on down the valley, north 21 miles, we come to / Arimo— a small to wn of perhaps fifty people. The famous Soda Springs of Idaho, are 30 miles east of this station, where are ample hotel accommodations for tourists, but the facilities for reaching them are limited, as there is no regular stage line ; livery team must be procured at Arimo LeavingArimo a low cut in the mount- ains about five miles distant to the north- cast, marks the passage of Port Neuf River through Port Neuf^ap. The old stage road is on our right, along the base of the mountain. After crossing a number of small creeks, and 9 miles from Arimo come to Belle Marsh, on Port Neuf River, down which we go 36 miles. Along this river are many peculiar rock formations. In places the rocks rise like a solid wall, from 20 to 100 feet from the ground in a line of uniform height for miles in extent, resembling huge fortifica- tions In several places along the road there are two and sometimes three of these walls running parallell with each other. Proceeding down the river we come to "Robbers' Roost" on the right, about four miles before reaching the next station. It is the point where the Montana stage rob- bery was committed in 1864 . eagle gate. Port Neuf — once known as Black Rock, so named for the ridge of slate rock to be seen just east of the station. It is 12 miles to Pocatello and ten to Ross Fork. — This is a small station on the river of the same name. The lands are mostly covered with sage brush, very rich, and with irrigation, water for which is abundant — could be made very produc- tive. Stock raising is about the only occu- pation the few settlers are engaged in. Game of all kinds abounds in the val- leys and in the mountains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducki are legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notably the trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, currants, and, in fact, all kindi of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this and adjacent valleys in great abundance. Although we are now in Idaho Territory, we shall speak of the cliief towns and the routes to them in an other place. The direction of our ro.id from thii point is north; about three miles brings us to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Ill Blackfoot— named for the Black- foot Indians. It is situated on a broad, sage-covered plain, one mile north of Blackfoot Biver, and two miles southeast from Snake Eiver, which is here marked by a dense growth of trees and willows. The place has about 200 population and some good stores and other buildings. Trains stop thirty minutes for meals —breakfast and supper. Stages leave Blackfoot for Challis daily— distance 70 miles northwest, for old Ft. Hall, 10 miles west ; new Ft. Hall, 8 miles east. EivERSiDE— is a side-track station on the bank of the Snake, 12 miles north from Blackfoot and 13 miles south of Eagle Eock— known by old-time pilgrims as Taylor's BridgCj at the crossing of Snake Eiver. See illustra- tion opposite: both railroad and wagon bridge are shown, the old and the new. At Eagle Eock is located a railroad round-house and repair shops, sever- al stores, hotels, and a few comfort- able private dwellings of stockmen who make this place their headquar- ters. > Crossing the river, just below the old bridge, 18 miles, brings us to Market Lane station — unimportant except as a shipping point for stock- cattle and sheep. : The whole country, now, has a vol- ;canic appearance — valueless for agri- cultural purposes— but, in and along the base of the mountains, on each side from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are very good, and all kinds of stock do well. The " Three Tetons " are to be seen to the east- ward. They overlook the Yellow- stone National Park. Lava Siding — a small station, comes next in 10 miles, from which it is 11 miles to Camas.- Freight in large quantities is shipped on wagons from Camas to iChallis— 60 miles west— and to the jSalmon Eiver mines to the northwest 1—130 miles. Stages also leave daily for Salmon City. Camas is the near- est point on the railroad to the Yel- ilowstone National Park. A wagon Toad has been completed and stages [put on the route. The distances are [estimated by Col. Norris, Superin- jendent of the National Park, to be : —Camas to Henryis Lake, 60 miles ; Henry's Lake to Junction, 25 miles; Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, 45 miles — making 130 miles— which in- cludes quite a tour of the Park, en route. (See Annex No. 26.) Eolling on through sage brush and barren wastes of volcanic deposites, we pass Dry Creek in 12 miles, and 17 miles more reach Beaver Canon station— 274 miles north of Ogden. Passenger trains from the north and south meet here for dinner. The road for 12 miles up Beaver Canon to MoNiDA — is built through some beautiful scenery— to the summit of the Eocky Mountain Eange, altitude 6,869 feet— and is the first railroad to cross the "Eockies" from the westward The station of Monida is named for the two territories on the line between which it is located—Mon-ida, Monta- na, Idaho. The "ContinentalDivide," marked by a sign-board on the west side of the track, is just south of the station buildings. From Monida the descent is gradual down a little valley, a kind of natural road-way, with magnificent snow- capped mountain scenery in the dis^ tance,and on all sides, herds of cattle, sheep and varieties of game. Williams— a small station, is 11 miles, and six more to Spring Hill— A small unimportant station, situated in the southern por- tion of Eed Eock Valley. This valley is nearly fifty miles in length, fol- lowed by our railroad the entire dis- ta'nce, and also by the river of the same name. The valley is dotted at intervals with comfortable farm houses, many herds of cattle and sheep, varieties of game, and some well fenced and cultivated lands. Bordering the valley on the east are high rolling, grass covered bluffs, with some timber in the higher ra- vines, while on the west, extend as far as the eye can see the Continental Divide, rising from the valley, the lower portions timber-clad, peak up- on peak, to the region of perpetual snow, where their white heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least, if notrespect- abilitv. 112 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Ked Eock Station— Is reached after passing several small side-tracks twenty-three miles north from Spring Hill. About midway be- tween these two stations is the some- what noted Red Rock, from which the valley, river and station derives its name. This rock is a bold cliff, probably five hundred feet in height and half a mile long, projecting out into the valley from the eastward— of a bright red color, and can be seen for a distance, up and down the val- ley, for over twenty miles each way. The old wagon road follows this val- ley for the entire length, and this Rock was a well-known land mark for the "Pilgrims "in early days. Grayling — Is a small station eleven miles from Red Rock Station, near the mouth of Beaver Head River, which comes in from the westward. Rolling down Ryan's Canon we come to a sign, "Soda Springs," on the right, near a small house. By looking up we discover a large stream of water pouring over the caiion walls, which is here 200 feet in height. As our train stopped at a tank near by for water we commissioned our Pullman porter, a very accomodating boy by the way, although his name was Vinegar, to fill a flask. It was about blood-heat, but not very strong with mineral. About eight miles from Greyling we come to Beaver Head Rock, at the gateway or mouth of the Canon, which here opens out into the Beaver Head Valley. This valley is nearly round, about twenty miles in diameter, in the centre of whicli, eight miles from Beaver Head Rock, is situated the new town of Dillon— Named for the President of the Union Pacific Railway. This is a busy place. Passenger trains going north stop for supper, and those for the south breakfast. Pres- ent population, about 500, but increas- ing rapidly. Large amounts of freight are snipped from this Station on "Wagons for the cities, towns, and mining camps to the eastward. The "Corinne" and "Valley" are the two principal hotels. Stages leave here daily on arrival of trains for the following places : Salisbury, 35 miles, fare, $8; Virginia City, 60 miles, fare, $12 ; Helena, 120 miles, fare $24 ; Boze- man, 140 miles, fare, $24. The valley of the Beaver Head is nearly round, and not far from twen- ty miles in diameter, about one- fourth of which is under cultivation, producing good crops of small grains and vegetables; the balance is occupied by stock raisers, some of whom have large herds of cattle and sheep. The mountains on the west are high, many of the most elevated peaks covered with snow. This range is a continuation of the Continental Divide — heretofore noticed. Ten miles from Dillon the Railroad bears away more to the northwest. We pass several small stations while rolling along down a beautiful little valley for 31 miles to Melrose— This is a small place of several hundred population, situated on the Big Hole or Windom River, which comes down from the west. The town was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs. Blow, who keeps at this place one of the best hotels in Montana, and, by the way, the Madam has an extraordinary history in con- nection with the hostile Indians who infested this country many years ago, one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of bravery record- ed of mothers in the annals of fron- tier life in this country, but we have not the space to record it. Butte.— The first of the year, 1882, this was the " end of the track," but it is very hard for a guide-book to tell just where the terminus of any west- ern road will be next month, next week, or even to-morrow. Yes, and it is difiQcultfor one to keep up with the older portions of our trans Miss- ouri country as everybody appears to be running a foot race to settle upon and gather up the numberless good things that are laying about all over this fair land. The new town of Butte is surround- ed by rich mineral prospects, with a bright out-look for the future. Stages leave here daily for Boulder, 37 miles, fare $4.50; Jefferson, 50 miles, fare $6.00; Helena, 72 miles, fare $8.00; New Chicago, 76 miles, fare $9.50; Missoula, 132 miles, fare $15. Montana Territory— For many years was considered solely as a min- ing country, but there was never a greater mistake. That it does con- PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 115^ tain mines, of all kinds, in great numbers, rich, and inexhausti- ble is well known, but the agri- cultural and stock raising re- sources are immense. At one time it possessed excellent "pla- cer" mines and "gold diggings," but they have been to a great extent, worked out. Yet there are still some camps where good pay is being taken out, and many of the "old diggings" are being worked over by the "heathen Chinee," and with good results. The mining is now mostly con- fined to quartz, some of which are of extraordinary richness. No section of our country at the present time offers greater inducements to the immigrant and capitalist than Montana. Its population by the late cen- sus was 39,157, but the comple- tion of the railway to the heart of the territory, the low rates of transportation, quick transit, both passengers and freight, as compared with wagons and stage, will promote and assure rapid development. Aside from the mining advantages the val- leys of the Missouri, Madison, Gallatin,Yellowstone, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazing lands in quantities sufficient to support millions of industrious people. Labor of all kinds is in de- mand, and the wages paid are doubletheamount, for the same services, current in the east. Game, of all kinds is abundant all over the territory, and for scenery, the equal of Montana is yet to be discovered. For arti- cles on the Yellowstone National Park, see Annex Nos. 26, 35, 36, and illustrations on pages 24, 104, 113, 146, and the large double page plate of Yellowstone Falls, No. 8. Guides and all equifjage ne- cessary to athoroughenjoyment of the trip to the Park can be grocured at Virginia City, or in Lower reyser Basin. Fare from Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin, $20. Parties of ten or more will be carried eiANTBSS GETSBR IK ERUPTION. from Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin and return for $30 each. Again returning to Ogden, we take up the Overland Boute. 114 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HON, LELAND STANFOKD. Ex-Qovemor Lei and Stanford, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- nia, was bom in the town of Watervliet, Albany county, N. Y.,- March 9, 1824. His ancestors were English, who settled in the Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning of the last century. Josiah Stanford, father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- nent citizen of the county, whose family consisted of seven sons — Leland being the fourth — and one daughter. Until the age of twenty, Leland's time was passed -at fitudy and on the farm. He then com- menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle & Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he moved West, and commenced the practice of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. Here, in June, 1850, he was married to Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1853, we find him following many of his friends to the new El Dorado. He landed in California July 13, 1853, proceeded directly to the mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on the American River, Placer county, and in a few years he had not only realized a for- tune, but so far won the confidence of the people as to secure the nomination for State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican ticket. At this time the Democratic party had never been beaten, and the canvass was made on principle. He was defeated but in 1861 — a split-up in the ranks of the dominant party having taken places— he was nominated for Governor, and elected by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- formed the trust, is well knovni. Suffice it to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- islature and won the approval of all classes Governor Stanford early moved in the in. terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento was still staggering under the devastat- ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- ture, with the whole country rent by civil war, he— all hope, all life and energy— les^'^ illl|!!!!!lilllll!l, I I IIV Pli"i rrwi iiil! iii ■^1 V^' AND PACIFIC COAST GUipE. 115 shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 1869, drove the last spike at Promon- tory, Utah, which completed the first Great Pacific Eailroad across the American co ntinent. Central Pacific Railroad, Of&cial headquarters, corner Fourth and Town- send Streets, San Francisco, Cal, Leland Stanford. . .President. . .San Francisco. C. P. Huntington Vice-Prest Neiv York. Chas. Cbocker Vice-Prest. .San Francisco. E.W.Hopkins Treasurer.. " E. H. MiiiiiEB, JR Secretary.. " A. N. TowNE Gen'l Mg'r. " J. A. FiiiiiMOKE Gen'l Supt. " R. H. Pratt Ass't Supt. . " T.H.Goodman G.P.&T.A. " R. A. Donaldson Assistant .. " J. C. Stubbs F.T.Mg'r. " RiCHABD Gbey G.F. A " S. S. Montague Chief Engr. " Land Com'r " W. H. Porter .'. . Auditor " O. C. Wheeler Gen'l B. Agt " F. Knowland, GenH Eastern Ag't, 287B'wayN. Y. M. T. Dennis, Gen'l Eastern Ag't for New Eng., Boston, Mass As most of the people who read this book, we conclude, are familiar with the history of the building of the Pa- cific E. R., and as we have, for 13 years past, published a condensed account of it— the trials, struggles and final tri- umph of the enterprise — it must suf- fice for this time to give a few facts and figures, and then pass on to our review of the cities, towns and objects of in- terest along the road and in the coun- try adjacent. The first survey was for the Central, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by Theo. D. Judah, in the Summer of 1860, followed in 1861 by a more thorough one, when a passage was discovered and declared feasible. In 1862 Congress granted the Pacific railroad charter, and the first ground was broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, Cal., Feb. 22, 1863, two years and eight months before ground was broken for the Union, at Omaha, THE WAY WE ONCE WENT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 116 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Neb. The following will show the num- ber of miles completed by the Central during each year : In 1863-4-5, 20 miles each year; in 1866, 30 miles; in 1867, 46 miles ; in 1868, 364 miles ; in 1869, 190i miles, making 690i miles from Sacra- mento to Promontory, where the roads met, May 10, 1869. The whole length of the Pacific rail- road proper, from Omaha to Sacra- mento, is 1,776^ miles, of which the Union built 1,085 and the Central 690^ miles. By a subsequent arrangement, the Union relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and in '69 the latter purchased the whole of the Western Pacific, from San Francisco to Sacramento, 137^ milesinlength,whichgave the Central Pacific 882 miles of road, from Ogden to San Francisco, and made the en- tire line from Omaha to San Francis- co 1,914 miles. " AH aboard," is now the order, and our train glides northward through the western suburbs of Ogden, cross- ing broad bottom lands, largely under cultivation. The Weber River is on the left, the long high range of the Wa- satch Mountains on the right. Within a few miles the Ogden River is cross- ed, and also many irrigating canals. The track of the Utah & Northern is on the right, and will be for the next 24 miles, near the foot of the mountains ; and as the towns and objects of note were described on the trip over that road they will be passed in this place. BoiineTille — is the first that we pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, near Willard, in the midst of good farming land, which yields large crops of wheat, barley and corn. Brighaiii— comes next, 7 :14 miles further. The town is to the eastward, near the base of the mountains, here- tofore described under the head of the Utah & Northern. Passing Brigham, the road inclines to the left, west, and crosses Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of which were driven in water 18 feet deep ; and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles from Brigham, we stop at Colorado was first visited by white men — Spaniards— in 1540. Explored by Z. M. Pike, who gave his name to Pike's Peak, in 1806 ; by Col. S. H. Long in 1820, who named Long's Peak ; by Gen. Fremont in 1843 ; by Gov. Wm. Giipin in 1840, who has traversed the country more or less until the present time. Corinne — This city is not as prosper- ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- ness as it was several years ago, owing principally to the fact that the Utah North, ern has been extended north too far ; and then the taking up of the branch track from the city has entirely cut off the freighting business to Montana and the northern settlements, that formerly went from this place. However, the citizens are by no means blue, but have built a canal from a point 11 miles to the northward, and now conduct the waters of the Malad River down to the city, and not only use it for irrigating thousands of acres of land, but for city and manufacturing purposes, chief of which is a flouring mill which produces about four tons of flour a day. Corinne has three churches, a good school, several hotels, and a weekly newspaper, the Record. Many of the citizens have embarked in the stock-raising business, and are doing well ; the range to the northward is very good. Around the town are many thou- sand acres of land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them pro- ductive in the highest degree. Again Westward! The farming lands gradually give wajr to alkali beds — white, barren, and glittering in the sun. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised several feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by excava- tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportu- nity had never ofiered. Quarry — is 7.64 miles further west, being a side-track where trains seldom stop, but skirt along the base of the mountains with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on the left. The cars pass over several long and high embankments, and reach the high broken land again at Bine Creek— which is 11.96 miles from Quarry. During the construction of the road, this was one of the hardest " Camps " along the whole line. Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind around the heads of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hillside by heavy fills. The track along here has been changed, avoiding several long tres- tle bridges, and running on a solid cm bankment. crofutt's new overland tourist 117 MAP OF THE CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD CAUFORNIA. SCALE 200 MILES TO I INCH PROFILE HOR. SCALE 200 MILES TO I INCH. <9 VERT. SCALE 10.080 FEET TO IINCH Z 600 700 Through more deep rock cuts we wind around Promontoiy Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine puflSng and snorting with its ardu- ous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads— 8.93 miles from Blue Creek. Promontory— elevation, 4,905 feet; distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from San Francisco 830 miles — is celebrated for being the point where the connection be- tween the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. This town formerly very lively, is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of Promontory Mountain. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be'irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- uriantly. The liRSt Spike— On Monday, the lOlh day of May. 1869, a large party was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of the Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue- clad bovs, with their burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave, earnest men, most of them, who are gath- ered here ; men who would not leave their homes and business and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was to witness such an event, to be present at 118 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 119 the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gath- ered here. They were here to do honor to the occasion when 1 ,774 miles of rail- road should be united, binding in one un- broken chain the East and the "West. (Sacramento at that time was the western terminus.) To witness this grand event — to be par- takers in the glorious act — this assemblage had convened. All around was excite- ment and bustle that morning ; men hurry- ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' hands in hearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of the friends of the road over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive ; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- tled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri River. The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays falling directly down upon the vacant place between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which would unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snorts ing out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was going on, and rejoiced in common with the excited assemblage. To give eflect to the proceedings, ar- rangements had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the East and West, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business sus- pended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city the instant the event occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be loosed, carrying the news of a great civil victory over the length and breadth of the land. The hour and minute designated ar- rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- sisted by other ofiicers of the Central Pa- cific, came forward ; T. C. Durant, Vice- President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same company, met them at the end of the rail, whei e they reverently paused, while Rev. Dr. Todd, of Mass., invoked the Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful piece of w orkraanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on which were suitable inscriptions, was put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver — and to the handle of which were attached the telegraph wires — and with the first tap on the head of the gold spike at 12, m., the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches were made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer after cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage, Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, where they rubbed their brown noses together, while shaking hands, as illustrated. To say that wine flowed freely would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests, and the celebration of the event. Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on the h st tie (not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed and a pine tie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces, and the fragments carried away as trophies or me- mentoes of the great event. Even one of the last raild laid in place was cut and battered so badly that it was removed and another substituted. Weeks after the event we passed the place again, and found an enthu- siastic person cutting a piece out of the last tie 1 aid. He was proud of his treasure — that littje chip of pine — for it was a piece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties had been placed there since the first was cut in pieces. PACIFIC COAST Guib:^. 121 In the cars belonging to each line, a sumptuous repast was served up to the in- vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low- to the western summit of Promontory. Point, the trains moved away with parting salutes from locomotives, and the celebration was ended,the partici- pants speeding away to their far dis- tant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Promontory Point. For Sketch of Great Salt Lake, see Annex No. 21. For Hudnut's Survey of route to Oregon, see Annex No. 28. We now resume our westward journey from Promontory. Four miles west (near a gravel track on the north side) can be seen close to the road, on the south side, a sign-board, which reads, "ten miles of track in one dvy." Again, on the same side, ten miles fur- ther west, another with the same inscrip- tion will appear. These boards mark the track which was laid by the track layers of the Central Pacific company in one day, under the immediate charge of J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- tion, H. H. MinRler, track layer, and James Campbell, Superintendent of Division. This undoubtedly is the most extraordinary feat of the kind ever accomplished in this or any other country. Why it was done— During the build- ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- tween the two companies as to which could lay the most track in one day. This ri- valry commenced early in the year 1868. The " Union " laying six miles; soon after the " Central " laid seven miles, and then again the " Union " seven and a half miles. The " Central " men, not to be outdone, an- nounced that they could lay ten miles in a day. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of the "Union" offered to bet $10,000 that itcouldnotbedone,andthe "Central" resolved it should be done. Conse- quently,on the 29th of April,1869,when only fourteen miles of track remained to be laid to meet the "Union" at Pro- montory Point, and in the presence of Gov. Stanford and manvprominent men from the East and West, and a committee from the "Union" to note the progress, the work commenced. How IT WAS DONE — -When the car loaded with rails came to the end of the • track, the two outer rails on either side were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- ward off the car, and laid on the ties by four men who attended exclusively to this. Over these rails the car was pushed forward, and the process repeated. Behind these men came a gang of men who half-drove the spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At a short interval behind these came a gang of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes already inserted and added the rest. Be- hind these came a second squad of China- men, two deep on each side of the track. The inner men had shovels, the outer ones picks. Together, they ballasted the track. The average rate of speed at which all these processes were carried on was one minute and 473^ seconds to every 240 feet of track laid down. Material Required— —Those unac- quainted with the enormous amount of ma- terial required to build ten miles of rail- road can learn something from the follow- ing figures : It requires 35,800 cross ties, 3,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- ing 4,862,000 lbs. This material is required for a single track, exclusive of" turnouts." To bring this material forward and place it in position, over 4,000 men, and Jiun- dreds of cars and wagons were employed. The discipline acquired in the four years since the commencement of the road en- abled the force to begin at the usual time in the morning, calm and unexcited, and march steadily on to "Victory," as the place where they rested at 1 :30 p. m. was called, having laid eight miles of track in six hours. Here this great ** Central " army must be fed, but Campbell was equal to the requirements. The camp and water train was brought up at the proper moment, and the whole force took dinner, including many distinguished guests. After the "Aowr nooning,'' the army was again on the march, and at precisely 7 p. m. 10 miles and 2^ feet had been completed. When this was done, the " Union " Com- mittee expressed their satisfaction and re- turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang upon the engine and ran it over the ten miles of track in forty minutes, thus dem- onstrating that the work was well done. Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we reach Rosel— situated almost on the edge of Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, where passenger trains never stop, unless signaled. A few miles further, and we pass the sign-board where commenced the 12-2 CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST work of laying the "ten miles of track in one day." Continuing along on the lake shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9.49 miles further, we pass Lake — another side-track, and 6.98 miles more arrive at Monnment — Here, many times, the lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering promontory, stretches far out into the lake, covered with excellent grass. We shall not see much more of the article for some time to come, for we are now on what might well be calkd the American Desert. Leav- ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to Neco — another side-track of no account, as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy grade, we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- ing its waters for the last time. Another run of 7.1 miles brings us to K.elton — or Indian Creek, as it is some- times called. This is a station of more im- portance than any yet passed since leaving Promontory. There are large water-tanks by the road-side, supplied from a spring in the foot-hills some miles to the north- ward. Here the Railroad Co. fill their water- cars — a train of which run daily to supply many of flie stations on this division of the road. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen lifting its rocky front far above the desert. From this station a daily line of coaches leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of the cars. The route passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the Columbia River — through to Boise in two days ; Walla Walla in four days ; Portland in five and a half days. The Boise Country, to which the line of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous passengers, lies in the southeastern portion o.. Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. Extensive mines of gold have been worked th3r for years, and still continue to attract ma attention, as rich mines of gold-bear- ing q ^'irt- have been discovered and worked since th- placer mines have been partially exhausted. The principal mining country i:j i that portion generally designated as the "^oise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south, by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone River. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise River, Fayette River, Wind Creek, Moore's Creek and S'llmon Rlvor. The Owyhee mines lie south of the Snake River and War Eagle Mountains. This portion of the mining belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one j ust mentioned. The ores are mostly silver. Boise City— is the capital of the Ter- ritory and county seat of Ada county. Population 6,000. The town site was laid out la 1863, and now contains about 700 buildings, mostly brick and stone. The town is situated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by 50 long. It is the center of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. The States- man, a tri-weekly paper, is published here. Idaho — is the second city in size in the Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which it is connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The TTcjrZtZ, newspaper, is published here — semi-weekly. Silver City — contains about 2,000 inhab- itants. The buildings are mostly granite. The Avalanche, a weekly paper, represents the interests of the town. We now return to the railroad, and 11.43 miles further, arrive at ©mbey — Passenger trains seldom stop here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to Matlin — This station is on the high- land, which sweeps out from the Red Dome Mountains. Here these oi ountains — low sandstone ridges — are nearer the track, breaking the monotony of the scene. The road lies on the northern border of a vast waste whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is midway from east to west of the American Desert — which extends over an area of 60 square miles. Over this vast extent the eye wanders iru vain for some green object— some evi- dence that in times gone by this waste supported animal life, or will eventually in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme; the bare beds of alkali, or wastes of gray sand only meet the vision, if we except now and then a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such things were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping plain sweeps ofl" towards that AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 123 body of water, and in places bends down until its thirsty sands are laved by tlie briny flood. Tliere are many evidences in support of the theory that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes which mark its northern border. The long line of water-wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden, and other points along the lake shore, can be distinctly traced, and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difference in the alti- tude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Matlin is an unimportant station, 10.78 miles from Terrace— Here the railroad company have erected work-shops and a 16-stall round-house. To the northward the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley are plainly seen ; they are brown, bare and uninviting as the country we are passing through. Some mines are reported near, but have not yet been de- veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to Bovine— Here there is little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, thougli gradually improv- ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- vals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. Continuing on 10.85 miles further we reach liliciii — At this point we find water tanks supplied by springs in the hills at the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley, which lies to the north, just behind that first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. The valley is about four miles wide, and not far from 60 miles long, taking in its windings from this point to where it breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- ley. It is little better than one continual bog in the center — the water from the nu- merous brackish springs found there standing in pools over the surface. There is good range of pasturage for the cattle in the valley and hills beyond. The old em- igrant road branches off at or near the station, one road passing through the val- ley, the other following nearly the line of railroad until it reaches tiie Humboldt xia Humboldt Wells. Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small stream which courses through the valley its entire length, sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert. Before reaching the next station we leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our train arrives at Tecoma — In 1874 quite an excitement was created among the mining operators by the discovery of rich silver and lead mines, situated about five miles south of this station in the Toano ran^e of moun- tains. A new tow^n was laid out at the mines — called Buel. A smelting furnace was erected at the mines and a run of 200 tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 000, which was shipped to San Francisco on one train, creating no small excitement on California street. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them. Stock-raising is now the principal busi- ness of this country. To the northward of this station, and in fact for the last two stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, and at the stations, pens and shutes for shipping. Pilot Peak, a noted landmark which has been visible for the past fifty miles, lies almost due south of this station — dis- tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks — the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains — rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half-way from the base to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered i ock — huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly the summit looking like some old castle when seen at a distance. From Promontory Point lookingwestward, this vastpile can be seen on a clear day— a dark mass amid the bluehaze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant, in early days, before the railroad, it was a welcome landmark, point- ing his course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and feed for his weary teams, afier crossing the barren waste. From Tecoma it is 9.56 miles up-grade to Montello— elevation 4,999 feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the increasing elevation. We ap- proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the 1 Goose Creek Range, the sides and gulches 124 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of which afford pasturage and water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and the country looks more capable of supporting animal life. Continuing the up-grade — over 550 feet within the next 9.6 miles — we arrive at liOray — a station of little importance to ihe traveler. From Loray, up we go for 7.1 miles further to Toano — until recently the end of the division. The company have here erected work- shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is centrally located as regards many mining districts in Eastern Nevada, among which are Egan Canyon, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek— all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is in operation from this place to Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, a distance of 90 miles south. Soon after leaving Toano we begin the ascent of Ce- dar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. The country is more broken, but possessing more vegetation. We have passed the western line of the desert, where, in early days, the travel- worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning sand, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word more, regarding this desert : The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this waste is sand, fine, hard and ^rey, mixed with marine shells and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country could be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sand and alkali, overlaying a heavy gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature's wondrous changes shall render this desert fit for the habitation of man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 miles, we pass Peq aop— and 5.83 miles further Otegjo — l>oth side-tracks of little im- portance. Then we commence to descend, and 5.6 miles further arrive at Independence — Independence Springs, from which this station derives its name, are near by, and supply an abun- dance of very good cold water. Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, lie to the southward. The two first named are small and valueless except for grazing purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or rather a low range of hills, extends far to the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south of the pass, is the South Fork of the Hum. boldt which canyons through this range, running to the east and north of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt. Although the range first mentioned, after having united with the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of Ruby Valley, near to the South Fork. From this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is ten miles from the western range mentioned to the foothills of Ruby Range, which hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive ard is occu- pied by settlers — mostly discharged sol- diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- ern portion of the valley is Ruby and Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which has no out- let. It is — like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- amid lakes in the Truckee Desert— merely a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby- Range lies Goshoot Lake, another brackish pond, with two small tributaries and no outlet, rather wider and about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- tween Goshoot and the railroad lies Snow Lake, about five miles in diameter, possess- ing the same general characteristics as the others. With the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the water- courses, the country is valueless except for stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich silver lodes have been discovered, some rock of which has been found to assay as high as $600 per ton. Returning to Independer^e, we again proceed westward— the counxry is rolling and broken— and the up-grade continues 6.1 miles to Moore's— on the summit of Cedar Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 miles t ") the Nevada Desert. In general outline this pass resembles a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 125 ratherrough, broken plateau, bent up- ward in the middle, forming a natural roadbed from the desert to the Hum- boldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which was cut off for use by tlae railroad company and others. Some is still obtained in the moun- tains to the north. About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy peak marks the point where Thousand Spring Val- ley bends to the south, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is Cedar— a small side-track, and six miles further brings our train to Wells— Here are located the usual round-house and machine shops of a division. The station is 1,250 miles from Omaha and 664 from San Fran- cisco ; elevation, 5,628 feet. Owing to the location of railroad shops at this place much improvement is notice- able in the last few years. The chief points of interest around the station are the celebrated. Humboldt Wells — around which the emigrants, in early times, camped to recruit their teams, after a long, hard journey across the desert. The wells are in the midst of a beautiful meadow or valley, which slopes away until it joins the Humboldt or main valley. The springs or wells— about 20 in number— are scattered over this lit- tle valley; one from which the compa- ny obtain their supply of water being within 200 yards of the road,and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by an engine. These wells would hardly be noticed by the traveler unless his at- tention was called to them. Nothing marks their presence except the circle of rank grass around them. When standing on the bank of one of these curious springs,you look on a still sur- face of water, perhaps 6 or 7 feet across and nearly round ; no current disturbs it ; it resembles a well more than a na- tural spring, and you look to see the dirt taken from it when dug. The wa- ter, which is slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seeping off through the loose, sandy loam soil of the valley. No bottom has been found to these wells, and they have been sounded to a great depth. Undoubtedly they are the craters of volcanoes long since ex- tinct, but which at one time threw up this vast body of lava of which the soil of Cedar Pass is largely composed. The whole face of the country bears evidence of the mighty change which has been taking place for centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks ; lava de- composed and powdered ; huge blocks of granite and sandstone in the foot- hills, broken, shattered and thrown around in wild confusion, are some of the signs indicative of an age whcM desolation reigned supreme. The vaJ - ley in which the wells are situated is about five miles long by three wide, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. The low hills afford an er.- cellent stock "range." The transition from the parched desert and barren, desolate upland to these green and well- watered valleys, redolent with the aroma of the countless flowers which deck its bosom, seems like the work of magic. Bich mineral discoveries have been made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of Wells — east of Clover Valley — in the Johnson & Latham district. The veins are reported large, well-defined, and rich in silver, copper and lead ; large deposits of iron ore have also been found. The district is well supplied with wood and water, and easy of ac- cess from the railroad. A stage runs through the district, extending 100 miles south to Shelburn, near the old overland stage road, in the Shellcreek mining district. A stage line is also in operation to the Bull Bun district. Stock-raising occupies the atten- tion of most of the settlers about this section and to the northward. Leaving the Wells we proceed down the valley for a few miles, when we en- ter the main valley of the Humboldt, which is very rich, but the seasons are too short for agricultural purposes. The soil is a deep black loam, moist enough for all purposes without irri- gation, from one to two feet deep. This portion of the Humboldt is about 80 miles in length, averaging 10 miles in width, nearly every acre being of the quality described. From Osino Cailon to the headwaters of the valley is occupied by settlers who have taken up hay ranches and stock ranges. The river abounds in fish and the foot- hills with deer and other game. 126 crofutt's new overlaid tourist The Humboldt River rises in the Humboldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, and courses westerly for about250 miles, when it bends to the south, emptying into Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of the dis- tauce, possessing few fords or conve- nient places for crossing. The railroad follows down its northern bank until it reaches Twelve-Mile Canon, about 16 miles west of Carlin, where it cross- es to the south side of the river and continues about 170 miles, when it crosses again and leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in full view of the river and lake. The main stream has many varieties of fish, and at cer- tain seasons its waters are a great re- sort for wild ducks and geese. Where it enters the lake the volume of water is much less than it is 100 miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil through which it passes. Of the valleys bor- dering it we shall speak separately, as each division is totally distinct in its general features. The "old emigrant road" can be distinctly traced along the river from its head to its source. From Wells, continuing down grade, it is 7.5 miles to Tnlasco — a small side-track, five miles from Bi<*hop's— This is another unim- portant side-track, where Bishop's valley unites with the Humboldt. This valley is 70 miles long, average width about five miles. It is very fertile, be- ing watered by Bishop's Creek, which rises in the HumboldtMountains, near HumboldtCafion, about 70 miles to the northeast, winding through the valley. Deeth— is passed 7.7 miles from Bishop's, and 12.9 miles farther to Halleck— Atthis station Govern- ment stores are left for Fort Halleck, a military station on the opposite side of the river. At the foot of the moun- tain—about 12 miles from the station- can be seen some settlers*^ buildings, situated on the road to the post. The military post is hid from view by the intervening hills. It is situated on an elevated plateau, which lies partially behind the first range, debouching thence in a long upland, which ex- tends some distance down the river. The valleys along the hills and much of the upland, are settled, and for veg- etables and cerals not affected by the early frost, prove very productive. A ready market is found along the rail- road. JPeko— is an unimportant station, 3.3 miles west of Halleck. Just after leaving the station we cross the north fork of the Humboldt on a truss bridge This river, where it unites with the main stream, is of equal size. It rises about 100 miles north, and receives as tributaries many small creeks and riv- ulets. The valley of the North Fork is from five to seven miles wide and covered with.a heavy growth of grass, and, like the main valley, is not sus- ceptible of cultivation to any great extent. Some kinds of vegetables yield handsome returns. The seasons are long enough, and the absence of early and late frosts insures a crop. Around the head of this valley are many smaller ones, each tributary stream having its own separate body of valley land. Some are perfect gems, nestled among the hills and almost surrounded by timber. Here game in abundance is found— quail, grouse, hare, deer and bear, and sometimes a "mountain lion," and the tourist, an- gler and hunter will find enough to oc- cupy them pleasantly should tliey visit this region. In these valleys are many thousand acres of Government land unclaimed, excepting that portion owned by the Railroad Company. The Humboldt and its tributary val- leys, as a range for stock, have no su- perior west of the Rocky Mountains. The winters are mild— snow rarely suf- ficiently deep to render it necessary to Xo.Sa Annex. *• Prickey,"tlie llorneil Toad. — This singular little member of the lizard species is certainly a native Californian. It is found upon nearly every dry hill or gravelly plain ; and although it is rare in some districts, in others it is still common. There are several varieties and sizes of it, and all perfectly harmelss. It lives ehiefly on flies and small insects. A California friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in front of his cabin for over three months ; and, one morning, the male toad wound itself around the picket pin and strangled to death, and the same day the female followed his example. Upon apost mortem examination of the femalo 15 eggs were found, about the size and shape of a small wren's egg. *(See illustration, page 81.; The Hammoth i^now Pl«w— owned by the Central Pacific Railroad, rests upon two four- wheel trucks, is 28 feet long, 10 feet 6 inches wide, 13 feet 3 inches high, and weighs 41,860 pounds. It was once propelled by ten locomo ■ tives, at the rate of 60 miles an hour, into a sno-vy drift on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, resulting in a big hole in the snow. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 127 feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in the valleys and among the hills, which have never received any attention or care. Stock -raisers are turning their attention of late to this country and find it very re- munerative. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch grass in profusion. AVherever sage-brush grows rank on the hill- sides, bunchgrass thrives equally well. ' Oisino — is 11.8 miles down the valley from Peko — a signal station at the I head of Osino Canyon, where the val- ley suddenly ends. At this point the northern range of mountains sweeps to the river bank, I which new a&sumes a tortuous course — i seeming to double back on itself in places — completely bewildering the traveler. i Across the river the high peak of the I opposite chain rise clear and bold from the valley, contrasting strongly with the black, broken i asses of shattered m untains nmong which we are winding in and out, seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind round a high point, the rail lying olose to the river's bank, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite blufls, half a mile away. A dense mass -f willow covers the bottom lands through which the river wanders. On around another rocky point and we are in a wider portion of the canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beautiful valley, across which we speed, the road curving around to the right, ?.nd 8.8 miles from the last station we arrive at Klko — The county seat of Elko county; popu'aUon about 1,200. Elko is a regular eating station for all trains from East and West. The town consisted of wood and canvas houses— which latter class is rapidly being replaced by something more substantial. In the last few years the town has improved ma'terially. The State University, which cost $30,- 000, is located here, just to the north- ward of the town. At this station — and almost every one to the westward — can be seen representatives of the Shoshone or Piute Indians, who come around the cars to beg. Any person who wi^hes to tell a big " whopper" would say, they are clean, neatly dressed, " child-like and bland," and perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, but an old plainsman would reverse the saying in terms more expressive than elegant. Near the town some Warm Springs are attracting attention. The medicinal quali- ties cf the water are highly spoken of. A hr.-^k lies between ^he hotel and the springs, making regiilar trips for the ac- commodation of visitors. The rich silver mining district of Cope is about 80 miles due north of ijlko, near the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- try. Some very rich mines have been dis- covered and several quartz mills erected, ill that district, but the more recent dis- coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 miles north, and are said to be very rich. Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain City — north, in Cope district — 80 miles dis- tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. Stages also run to Railroad district — south 25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles; also a weekly line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large quantities ot freight arrive at, and are re-shipped from this station on wagons, for the various mining districts to the north an 1 south. Another important business that has sprung up at Elko, within the last few years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- tains more cattle than any other two coun- ties in the State, and Elko ships more cattle than any four btations on the road, being amply provided with all the facilities — ^roomy yards, shutes, etc., for a busi- ness that is rapidly increasing, and is-des- tined, before many years, to far exceed ^1 others in the State. This section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, and the country abounds in game of all kinds — a hunter's paradise. The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty miies above and below Elko, cannot be ranked as among the best of its bottom-lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. But a narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- less for agricultural purposes. Passing down from Elko — the valley dotted with the hamlets of the rancher for about nine miles— we come opposite the South Fork of the Humboldt. .^Tliis stream rises about 100 miles to the south- east. It canyons through Ruby Mountaiii?, and then follows down the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges, which. V^8 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. n under tlie general name of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country. For portions of the distance there is fine valley land along the stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide, adapted to early crops, but, as a body, it is inferior to either the Main or -North Fork valleys. How- ever, the land is all admirably adapted for grazing purposes. Moleen — is a signal station, 11.8 miles west of Elko. After leaving this station the valUy presents a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley ; on the right the blufls are high and covered with luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows are almost entirely closed out, and we en- ter Five Mile Canyon. Through this the river runs quite rapidly ; its clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along, while occasional narrow strips of meadow land are to be seen at times. The scenery along this canyon is hardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan Valley, another strip of good bottom land, about twenty miles long, by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee Kange, to the northward, are many beauti- ful, little valleys, well watered by moun- tafn streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into pleas- ant homes. Timber is pleanty in the ra- vines and on the hill-sides— suflScient for the wants of a large population. Passing on to near the next station, we cross Mag- gie's Creek, which empties into the Hum- boldt from the north. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- cruiting their stock " in the old times when the early emigrants toiled along the river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 80 miles to the nortliward. The valley through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and ve^ rich. It extends to the base of the moVjtains, about 70 miles, and is now moatiy occupied by stockmen. The stream affords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abounds on the hills bordering the valley. Some time since. a wagon road was surveyed and located uj this valley to Idaho Territory. From Moleen, it is 11.6 miles to Carlin — This is quite a busy station,* of about 600 population. Here are located the offices of Humboldt Division, and the division workshops. The latter are of wood and consist of a round-house of 16 stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. The railroad was completed to this place Dec. 20, 1868. To the south of Carlin, from 15 to 60 miles, are located mil es rich in gold, sil- ver, copper and iron. To the northward, rich discoveries have been made, extend- ing to the Owyhee com ,try. In both these sections new mining districts have been located, and the attention of experienced capitalists is being attracted thereto. Mary's Creek — rises three miles north and enters the Humboldt at Cariin. It rises in a beautiful lakelet nestled among the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of fine valley land. The valley of the stream, and that portion surroundiog its head waters, is occupied by settlers. Proceeding down the river from Carlin, for some distance the green meadows con- tinue fair and wide ; then the sloping hills give place lO loftv mountains, which close in on either hand, shutting out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain range one would suppose that it had ex- tended across the valley at one time, form- ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- sage for the waters which wash the base of the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet high. This place is generally known as The Palisades — Humboldt or Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not possess points of interest with Echo or Weber canyons, in many particulars the scenery is equally grand. The ab- sence of varied colors may urge against its claims to equal with those places, but, on the other hand, its bleak, bare, brown walls have a majestic, gloomy grandeur, which coloring could not improve. In passing down this canyon, we seem to pass between two walls which threaten to close together ere we shall gain the outlet. The river rolls at our feet a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crum- bled, and large masses of crushed rocks crofutt's new overland tourist 129 slope down to the river brink. Seams of Iron ore and copper-bearing rock break tlie monotony of color, showing the exist- ence of large deposits of these materials among these brown old mount, ins. Now we pass "Red Cliff," wi.ich rears its bat- tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their mud pal- aces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering about the great monster rushing past, and alter he has disappeared, gossip- ing among themselves of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's Bower," a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower - unless it was the left bower, for we left it behind us. Twisting in and around these projecting cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach Palisade — a station, in the midst of the Palisades, and apparently locked in on all sides. This is a busy place for a small one of only 200 population, as it is the junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- road, where are located their machine and workshops. Most of the box and flat cars of this company are made here in tJieir own shops. The amount of freight han- dled at this station is enormous. Passen- gers can, almost always, see large piles of base bullion pigs piled up at the freight house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is mostly freighted here from the smelting furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and Palisade railroad, which alone handled over 3r),ooo.()0() pounds annually. One great item of freight taken aown over this road — the E. &. P. — is timber from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use in timbering up the mines at Eureka. Palisade, beside the machine shops above named, has several large build- ings, used by the Railroad Company, for freights and storage and one a fine, com- modious passenger station; these with several stores, hotels, restaurants and saloons make up the town. The station is supplied with water from a huge tank, situated upon the mountain side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- tion. This tank in turn is supplied from •springs situated further up the mountain, that never fail in their supply. Now, as we started out to see what was worth seeing, let us take a run down over the road that comes in here and note what can be seen. £areka &. Palisade Railroad. Principal Office, Eureka, Nevada. E. Mills, President, ^ .Eureka. P. Everts Gen' I Sup' t Eureka. J. li. F1.8T GenHF. P. & T.Agt... Palisade. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge,, commenced in December, 1873, and com- pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is- 90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave for the South on arrival of trait, s on the Central, and arrive in time to connect for either the East or West. The trains make full 30 miles an hour, and the cars are as commodious and nice as on any road in this country. Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt River and start for the West, the C. P. on the north side of the river and our little train on the south side. But a few hun- dred yards from the station we curve around to the left, while the C. P. makes a similar one to the right and is soon lost to> view. The general course of our train is^ south, following up Pine Valley, which is,, for the first ten miles, covered with sage- brush—as is also the surrounding hills. Bullion — is the first station on the bills,, eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it,, and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- ther is over one mile in width. Now our train is at Evans— a simple side-track, important only to a few settlers near, who are culti- vating small fields and watching herds of cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. Some fields are fenced, for the protection of the grass, which is cut for hay. The Cortez Mountains are on the west — the right side— and the Diamond range on the left. Willakd's — is 15 miles from Palisade, and four miles from Hay Ranch — This station is the first from Palisade where anything like busi- ness is to be seen. Here the Railroad Com- pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land fenced, on which they cut annually about 1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and store away in those long warehouses to be seen on the right of the road. The com- pany run freight teams from the end of their road at Eureka, and— in connection with it — to Pioche and all intermediate places. These teams are composed of 18 mules each, with three and sometimes four 130 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. Near Shady Rua, Sic ra Nevada Mounlain-. wagons coupled together— as illustrated on page 28 — employing from 300 to 400 mules, each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 lbs. In winter, when their mules are not in use, they are kept at this station, and the hay is harvested by the company and used for their own stock. Continuing on up the valley 9,31 miles, we come to Box Springs — but trains do not stop only on signal, and nine miles further stop at Mineral — This is a regular eating sta- tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. The meals cost $1.00, and are of the sub- stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. To the east is located the Mineral Hill Mine, once the most productive in the State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and the original owners, after taking out sev- eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to an English company — who, until within the last year, have allowed it to remain idle. It is now being worked with good prospects. From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to Deep Wells — so named for a deep well that was dug near by, to procure water for the freight teams that were in the habit of traveling this road. The enterprising "Pil- grim" who dug the well was wont to charge $1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- ter." From Deep Wells the route is over a sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for seven miles, to Alpha— a small station, near where kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the smelting furnaces. To the west of this station is a broad valley, over which range large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from Alpha is Pine Station — another place where charcoal burning is the principal busi- FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE R: |i:R, OREGON. (See Annex No. 37.) (9.) CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 131 ness. Cedar trees are notiLcable along on the bluffs as we pass by ; sage is abund- ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and very large — they call them " narrow-gauge mules " in this country. Cedar — is the next station, three ana-a- half miles from Pine. The country is rough and broken, and sage predominates ; the grade is heavy and the road crooked — twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to Summit — a station on the dividing ridge between Pine Valley on the west and Dia- mond Valley on the east. The face of the country is not very inviting, except for those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the summit the old overland stage road crosses from Jacob's "Wells on the east to Austin on the west. From the summit the road enters Dia- mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, the road making, between Summit and Gardner Pass — six miles from Summit — a great horse-shoe curve, and fairly doubling back upon itself to get around the projecting spurs that shoot out from the range of high bluffs on each side. Contintting along up the narrow valley nine miles, we reach D I A M o N D — an unimportant statio t , and another run of twelve miles brings our train to the end of the road at £areka — This city is 90 miles south of Palisade, and contains, with the near surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining and de- pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- ber of s'ores, hotels and small shops, there are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive establishments, running night and day, make business pretty lively, and will ac- count for the quantities of base bullion hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson and the Parker are the principal ones. There are two daily papers, the Sentinel and the Republican. The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs from the depot at Eureka around the various smelting and refining works and mines of the different mining companies, and around Eureka, delivering freight and handling ores. This road is about six miles in length. The most prominent mines at Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. 9 Stages connect at Eureka, carrying pas- sengers, mails and express to the various mining towns and camps in the. adjoining country; to Hamilton, 40 miles, daily, which runs throughlhe "Ward and Pioche ; districts to "Ward, 100 miles ; Pioche, 190 miles ; to Tybo, 100 miles ; Austin, 80 miles ; tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. The freighting business to Pioche and all intermediate towns and camps is very extensive, most of which is hauled by the Railroad Company's teams, as previously stated. The White Pine Country, is sit- uated to ihe southeast from Eureka, the principal city of which is , Hamilton — This city contains a pop- ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- gaged in the mining business. Milling and smelting are the only occupations, there being two smelters and six mills. An English company is now engaged running a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the great mineral deposit known to be there. This tunnel, when completed, will be 6,000 feet long— 7x9 feet, double track, " T " rail — and will tap the mines at a depth of 1 600 feet. It is now completed about 3.000 feet. Hamilton had one weekly newspaper— the News. White Pine — is nearly due east of Vir- ginia Ciiy, where the first silvei mining ex- citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though " ranges " have been terribly shaken about in this section of our country. The Eberhardt mine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in 1866, but the great stampede of miners and speculators to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of 1869. As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- jority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a' regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment. For items of interest see Annex No. 30. We will now return to Palisade, and re- sume our place in the C. P. cars. Passing down the canyon, winding and twisting along around a succession of projecting spurs, we pass the " Devil's Peak," on the opposite side of the river, a perpendicular rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from 132 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. the water's edge. On, past the towering bluffs and castellated rocks— which, at first view, look like some old brown castle, for- saken by its founders and left to ruin, deso- lation and decay— we cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Humboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. Cloro— is a flag station, 10.4 miles west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- ing from the canyon. We now enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river's brink. Near this point is where the powder magazine of the rail- road company exploded in lb68, while the road was building through the canyon. North of the river, at the point on the opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these pomts, they consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearance of gold-bearing gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- wash, and not caused by volcanic wear — fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, and interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled. Gravelly FoRD—one of the most no- ted points on the Humboldt ;^iver in early days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mightj chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil over the mountains until they could de- scend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the opposite hills, thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley above. A few would leave the river lower down and bear away to the south, but the it>ad was long and rough before they reached the Talley above the canyon. There were and now are other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel bottom, It offered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence it became a noted place — the point to which the westward- bound emigrants looked forward with great interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. O wing to these con- Biderations, lar^e bodies of emigrants were often encampea here for weeks. At times the river would be too high, and they would wait for the torrent to subside. The Indians — Shoshones — knew this also, and many a skirmish took place between them and their white brothers, caused by mistaken ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- grant's stock. Connected with this place is an incident which, for the honor of the men who per- formed the Christian act, we will relate : In the early times spoken of, a pai'ty of emigrants were encamped here, waiting for the water to subside. Among these emi- grants were many women and children. While here, an estimable young lady of 18 years fell sick, and despite the watchful care and loviug tenderness of friends and kindred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist, dividing the real from the ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her friends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time- amid the new life opening to them on the Pacific slope — the young girl's fate and ^rave were alike forgotten by all but her immediate relatives. When the advance guard of the Central railroad — the graders and culvert men— came to Gravelly Ford, they found the lone grave and fast-decaying head- board. The site awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympa- thies, for they were men^ these brown, toil- stained laborers. The " culvert men " (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- fended from the incursion of beasts of pre^jr. With such men, to think was to act, andm a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall, and a cross— the sacred emblem of immortality — took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think they will find a credit for that deed which will offset many little debits in the ledger of good and ^\\\. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- ompense of the noble deed. The grave is on the south side of the road, upon a low bluff, about five miles west of Cluro. In October, 1871, the Superintendent of the Division erected over it a fine large cross. " CoBRAL," (Spanish) a pen made of poats set on end in the ground close together, and fastened with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a circle forming an inclosnre. Telegraph Opebatobs are called " lightning Bhovers." Otjtpit— Necessary supplies for a jonrnej. ceoftjtt's new overland tourist 133 Upon one side is inscribed "The Mai- den's Grave," on the other, her name, " Lucinda Duncan." Passing on, we cross narrow patches of meadow land, and wind around the base of low hills until we reach a broad valley. Across the river to the northward can be seen the long, unbroken slopes which stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line — the Idaho Mountains — which rises against the northern sky. Behind that gray old peak, which is barely discernible, the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on their journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among that darker clump of hills Maggie's Creek finds its source. Be-o-iw^a-we — is reached at a narrow point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles from Cluro. The Cortez mines and milis are situated about 35 miles south of this station, with which they are connected by a good road. At this point the Red Range throws a spur nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as though the spur extended clear across, at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- dence of the theory that such was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along unmindful of the mighty work done in for- mer years, when the resistless current *' forced a highway to the sea," and drained a mighty lake, leaving in its place green meadows. Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing line between the Shoshones and the Piutea, two tribes of Indians who seemed to ba created for the express purpose of woiTy- ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass, hoppers, and preying on themselves and everybody else. The Shoshones are very degraded Indians, and until recently, were like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old — their hand was against every man, and every man's hand was compelled, in self- defense, to be against them until they be- came almost unable to commit depreda* tions, and could make more by begging than they could by stealing. The term Be-o- wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its significance. After leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and wind along by the hillside, over the low meadows, which here are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad^ but is covered with willows, with the ex- ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. Amid these willows the stream winds and twists about through innumerable sloughs and creeks, as though undecided whether to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of, pelicans disporting in the waters on their return from their daily fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. These birds, at certain seasons of the year, are to be found here and there along the river for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in these willow islands and rear their young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load themselves with fish, returning towards night to feed their young and ramble about the bottom. Soon after leaving the station, Hot Spring Valley comes in on the left — south —and by looking away to the south eight miles, can be seen columns of steam, from one of the many "hot springs" which abound in the " Great Basin." If you do not behold the steam— for the springs are not always in active operation — you will behold a long, yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half-mile around a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, muddy water and sulphuric wash descends the hillside, desolating everything in its 134 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley. Sometimes for hours these springs are inactive, then come little puffs of steam, then long and frequent jets, which often shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very- tot. Woe to the unlucky hombre who gets near and to the windward of one of these springs, when it sends forth a col- umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will need a change of clothes, some simple cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of his friends — as well as of the congregation. There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- "bling, sulphuric curiosities around the hills in this vicinity. The general charac- ter of all are about the same. There are a great many theories regard- ing these springs — what causes the heat, etc. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, which are supposed to be ever burning in the center of the globe. Others assert that it is min- eral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place to which they may well fear their wicked deeds may doom them in the future. IShoshone— is ten miles west of Be- o-wa-we ; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the river to the right is Battle Mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the river's brink. It seems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really " spreads itself." We saw the same point when emerging from Be-o-wa-we. or " the gate," and it will continue in sight for many miles. This mountain derives its name from an Indian fight, the particulars of which will be related hereafter. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- ral name. This range being the most prominent, desenres a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mountains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire length — from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- most unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it rises in bold bluffs, in others it slopes away from base to summit, but in each case the same altUude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet high, the top or summit appearing to be table-land. Silver and copper mines have been prospected with good results. Behind this range are wide valleys, which slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively isolated. Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward, and is bordered by a beautiful valley about four miles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain trout. In the country around the head- waters of the stream is found plenty of game of various kinds, including deer and bear. Copper mines of vast size and great rich- ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever the copper interest beconxeaof sufficient importance to warrant the opening of these mines, this section will prove one of great importance. Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way down the river, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sage-brush. The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch-grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- mer and winter. Argenta— is 11.1 miles further west This was formerly a regular eating station and the distributing point for Austin and the Ree'se River country ; but is now a sim- ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled. Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and five wide. In general features it resembles the lower portion, the whole, comprismg one of the richest farming sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head of the valley, and other small towns have sprung up at other points. Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain stream, upon which are a number of grist and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains and flows through these valleys to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bears, deer, silver-gray foxes, and other game, abound on the hills which border the valley. These valleys — the Humboldt for 50 miles east and west, and the adjoining mountains — are the stock-raisers' paradise. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 135 Tens of thousands of cattle are now roam- ing along the Humboldt and adjoining valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- puted that there are not less than 350 000 head between Promontory Mountain and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. One firm near this station has over 40,000 head, and one range fenced of 28,000 acres. A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese River Valley joins the Humboldt — coming in from the south. It is very diversified in feature, being very wide at some points — ^from seven to ten miles — and then dwin- dling down to narrow strips of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and possess an excellent soil. Other portious are bar- ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage-brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as " Whirl- wind Valley," and passengers will fre- quently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flows through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to 300 miles distant. It has many tribu- taries, which find their source in the moun- tain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- ing the Humboldt. During the winter and spring floods, the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where Reese River sinks in the valley was fought the celebrated battle be- tween the Whites and Indians— settlers and emigrants, 30 years ago — which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the emigrants and settlers, who banded them- selves together and gave cha se. They over- took them at this point, and the fight com, menced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down to the water's edge they drove the red skins, who, finding themselves sur- rounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed in, the set- tlers found themselves in possession of their stock and a hard-fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. From Argenta, it is 11.8 miles to Battle Hi oun tain— This is a din- ner station for passenger trains from both the East and West, where trains stop 30 minutes. The waiters are Chmese, and very lively while serving a good meal. Water for the little fountain in front of the Battle Mountain House, the rail- road, and the town, is conducted in pipes from a big spring in the side of the mountain, three miles to the south. Battle mountain is the distributing" goint for a great number of mining istricts, towns and camps, both north and south of the road. Stages and fast freight lines leave daily for the northward : To Tuscaro- ra, 68 miles; Rock Creek, 80 miles;; Cornucopia, 100 miles. The shipments from Battle Mountain Station average over 500 tons per month, and is in- creasing. The surrounding country is alive with herds of cattle, particularly on the north side of the river, and this place has become quite a point for cattle buyers from California to con- gregate. Nevada Central Railway. General Offices, Battle Mountain. S. H. H. Clabk, (of the U. P. B. R.) President This is a three-foot narrow gauge, organized September 2,d 1879, comple- ted the December following, and sold to Union Pacific parties in the Sum- mer of 1881. Its general course is to the southward, up the valley of Reese River, 93 miles to Austin. The grades are easy, and the country tributary rich in mines, agricultural lands, cat- tle and sheep. The principal stations and distances between, are : Galena, 11 miles; Mound Springs, 10 miles; Bridges', 22 miles ; Walters', 13 miles ; Hallsvale, 10 miles ; Caton's, 10 miles ; Ledlies', 10 miles; Austin, 7 miles. There are twenty mining districts tri- butary to this road, among which are Battle Mountain, Galena,Austin,Lew- is, Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Dun Glen, Cortez, Diamond, Hum- boldt, Grass Valley and Belmont. In all these districts rich mines are being worked ; stamp mills and smelting fur- naces are numerous. Railroads and low freights have resulted in vigorous development and better machinery. Stage connections are made at sev- eral points on the road, and at Austin for all points in Central and Southern Nevada. Austin— is situated near the sum- mit of the Toivabe- Range, on the ground where the first silver ore was discovered in this district, m May, 1862. The discoverer, W. 136 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. M. Talcott, located the vein andnamed it Poney . As soon as it beca jae known, prospeccors flocked in, and the coun- try was pretty thorough- ly prospected during 1862 and 1863. Many veins were located, some of them proving very valuable. Mills were erected at different points, and from that time forward the dis- trict has been in a pros- perous condition. Austin contains a pop- ulation of about 2,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining operations. The town has some extensive Stores and does a very large business in the way of furnishing sup- plies for the mining camps surrounding it, for fromSO to 100 miles. The Reese Miver Beveille is a live daily pub- lished here. To the south of Battle Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are several hot springs, strongly impreg- nated with sulphur and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity. Leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains to the left, leaving the river far to our right over against the base of Battle Mountain. We are now in the wid- est part of the valley, about opposite the Big Bend of the Humboldt. After passing the Palisades the river in- clines to the south for aboutSO miles, when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further ; then turning nearly dae s lutli, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for three-fourths of the circumference. This vast area of land, or most of it, comprising many tliousand acres of level upland, bor- dered by green meadows, is susceptible of cultivation when irrigated. The sage- brush grows luxuriantly, and where the alkali beds do not appear, the soil produces a good crop of bunch-grass. The road TRUCKEE RIVER. takes the short side of the semi-circle keeping close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Mountain Range, are several valleys, watered by the mountain streams, and affording a large area of first-class farming land. Chief among these is Quinn's Valley, watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a fine body of valley land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass or vegetables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- rious qualities — spruce and pine predomi- nating — is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. Quinn's River, which flows through this valley, is a large stream rising in the St. Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 miles distant. From its source the general course of the river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west until it reaches Mud Lake. During the summer but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being absorbed by the barren plain which lies between the foot- hills and the Humboldt River. Near the cbofutt's new overland tourist 137 head-waters of Quinn's River, the Crooked Creek, or Antelope, rises and flows due north for about 50 miles, when it empties its waters into the Owyhee River. The head-waters of the streams which run from the southern slope of the Owyhee Moun- tains are well supplied with salmon and trout, and other varieties of fish. Quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Piute— is 4.9 miles west of Battle Mountain Station. Here passenger trains from the east and west meet. C/Oin — a flag station, is 7.8 miles west of Piute. Intone House — is 7.1 miles further. This place was once an old trading post, strongly fortified against Indian attacks. The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To the south of this station are more of the many hot springs that abound in the Ne- vada Basin. We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the soil of which in places is sandy and in others alkaline, and then wind along around the base of a mountain spur that shoots away to the northward, and come to Iron Point — a small side-track, 12.4 miles from Stone House. Here are located a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading cattle. At this station the blufis draw close and high on each side, with the river and a narrow strip of meadow land on the right. After passing around the point and through numerous cuts for two miles, the canyon widens into a valley for several miles, then closes in, and the train passes around another rocky point into another valley, and stops at Oolconda — a station 11.4 miles from Iron Point. This is a small station with a few good buildings. Large herds of cattle range near by in the surrounding valleys, and on the bluff's. Rich mines of gold and silver are located both to the north and south ; one, the Golconda mine and mill, only three miles distant to the south. Close to the west of the station, under the edge of the bluff" on the right, are located some hot springs. Here some of the set- tlers — as at Springville, Utah — use the hot water for their advantage — one for milling the other for stimulating the soil. Continuing our journey, we pass over a broad sage-brush plain, with wide mead- ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to Tuie — an unimportant station, ing on down the valley we skirt the hilla on our left, drawing still closer, in some places the spurs reaching to the track. On our left is an opening in the hills, from whence a canyon opens out near the road- side. It is about five miles long, contain- ing living springs. Here were discovered the first mines in this part of Nevada. In the spring of 1860, Mr. Barbeau, who was herding stock for Coperning, discovered the silver ore, and from this beginning, the prospecting was carried on with vigor, which resulted in locating many very val- uable bodies of ore. From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. Winnemucca — is the commence, ment of the Truckee Division. The station was named after a chief of the Piute In- dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- tion 4,331 feet. Distance from Omaha 1,451 miles; from San Francisco 463 miles. Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- boldt county, and is composed of what is known as the old and new towns, which, together, contain about 800 inhabitants. The old town is situated on the low land directly fronting the station, about 300 yards distant. Though so near, it is hid from sight until you approach the bank and look over. The town contains about 150 buildings of all sorts, among which are a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- ing works, flouring mill, and a good hotel, the Central Pacific. The buildings with few exceptions, are of wood, new, and like most of the railroad towns, more useful than ornamental. The company have located here the usual division work and repair shops, including a 16-stall round-house. They are built of wood in the most substantial manner, as are all the shops along the road. There is considerable mining going on around and near Winnemucca, and quite a number of mills and furnaces are in opera- tion, all of which are said to be doing well. In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of silver-bearing ore have been located which promise a fair return for working. Stages leave here daily for CampMc- Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15 ; Paradise, 40 miles, fare $5; Silver City, Idaho, 200 miles, fare $40 ; Boise City, 255 miles, fare $40. Fast freight trains run from this station to all the above towns, and to the mining camps in the adjoining country. 138 ceofutt's new overland tourist HLJUJJOlvDT HOUSE.— Ske Nkxt PAGE, The Silver State, a weekly newspa- per, is published here. Winnemucca is the great distributing point for a number of mining districts to the north and south, and does an exten- sive freighting business. Many herds of cattle and sheep range the adjacent country, and large numbers are brought here for shipment to Cali- fornia. Mud Lake— is about 50 miles west of this station, across the Humboldt, which here turns to the south, and is one of those peculiar lakes found in the great basin of Nevada. The lake receives the waters of Quinn's River and several smaller tributaries during the wet season. It has no outlet, unless its connection with Pyramid and Win- nemucca lakes could be so designated. It is about 50 miles ^ong bjr 20 wide, in high water; in summer it dwindles down to a marshy tract of land and a large stagnant pool. At the head of the lake is Black Rock, a noted land- mark in this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky headland, rising about 1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several miles. It is an isolated peak in this desert waste, keeping solitary guard amid the sur- rounding desolation. Pyramid Lake— is about 20 miles south of Mud Lake, which receives the waters of Truckee River. It is about 30 miles long by 20 wide during the wet seasons.' The quality of the water is superior to that of Mud Lake, though the water of all these lakes is more or less brackish. Winnemucca Lake — a few miles east of Pyramid Lake, is another stagnant pond, about fifteen miles long by ten wide. This lake is con- nected with Pyramid Lake by a small stream, and that in turn with Mud "So, 49 Annex. Sierra IVevada Monn- ticins. — The large illustration, No. 14, of the Sierras, is from a phofbgraph, and affords a beau- tiful view of the highest point of the Sierra Ne- vada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pa- cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession of tunnels and snow-sheds, which extend without a break for 28 miles ; below is the " Gem of the Sierras," Donner Lake. (For description, see pages 155 and 156 of this book.) CEOFTJTT S XEW OVERLAID TOURIST 139 Lake, but only during high water, when the streams flowing into them cause them to spread far over the low, sandy waste around them. Returning to "Winnemucca, we resume our journey. The road bears away to the southward, skirting the low hills which extend from the Winnemucca Mountain toward Humboldt Lake. The general aspect of the country, is sage and alkali on the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on the bluffs. Rose Creek — comes next, 8.88 miles, and 10.2 more, Raspberry Creek— Both the last named are unimportant stations where pas- senger trains seldom stop. They are each named after creeks near the stations, but why one should be Rose Creek and the other Raspberry Creek, we never could learn. We saw no indication of roses or raspberries at either creek. But they do have queer names for things in this country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a " narrow gauge mule," we are prepared to hear sage-brush called roses, and grease- wood raspberries. Mill City— is 7.49 miles from Rasp- berry, and has some good buildings, among which is a fine hotel, close to the track on the right — and large freight warehouses; also cattle pens and shutes for shipping cattle, great numbers of which roam over the bottoms and adjacent bluffs. Stages leave this station on arrival of the cars for Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver mining town, 18 miles distant to the south- ward. Hnmboldt— 11.7 miles from Mill City, is a regular eating station where trains for the West stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East the same time for breakfast. The meals are the best on ♦^he road. Hei^e will be found the clearest, coldest mountain spring water along the road, and viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain in front of the station, one quite forgets the look of desolation observable on every side, and that this station is on the edge of the great Nevada Desert. It is worth the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the wonders of nature to stop here and remain for a few days at least — for one day will not suffice — although to the careless passer-by the countiy ap- pears devoid of interest. Those who wish to delve into nature's mysteries can here find pleasant and profitable employment. The whole sum of man's existence does not con. sist in mines, mills, merchandise and money. There are other ways of employ- ing the mind besides bending its energies to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still another God, mightier than Mammon, wor- shiped by the few. Among the works of His hands— these barren plains, brown hills and curious lakes — the seeker after knowledge can find ample opportunities to gratify his taste. The singular formation of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone age, the fossil remains and marine evi- dences of past submersion, and, above all else, the grand and unsolved problem by which the waters that are continually pour- ing into this great basin are prevented from overflowing the low land around them, are objects worthy of the close attention and investigation of the scholar and philoso- pher. From this station, the noted points of the country are easy of access. Here one can observe the effects of irri- gation on this sandy, sage-brush country. The garden at the station produces vege- tables, corn and fruit trees luxuriantly, and yet but a short time has elapsed since it was covered with a rank growth of sage- brush. About seven miles to the northeast may be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- tinues to hold its icy sway the whole year round. Two and one-half miles southeast are the Humbold*; mines — five in number — rich in gold and silver. The discovery of a borax mine near the station has been re- cently reported. Five miles to the north- west are the Lanson Meadows, on which are cut immense quantities of as good grass as can be found in the country. Thirty miles north are the new sulphur mines, where that suspicious mineral has been found in an almost pure state, and so hard that it requires to be blasted before it can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- ties sufficient to enable those operating the mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- boldt, about one mile distant, on the right near the road, is another sulphur mine^ but it is undeveloped. Rye Patch- is 11.23 miles from Hum- boldt, named for a species of wild rye that grows luxuriantly on the moist ground near the station . To the left of the road, against the hill- side, is another hot spring, over whose sur- face a cloud of vapor is generally floating. 140 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. The medicinal qualities of the water are highly spoken of by those who never tried them, hut we could learn of no reliable analysis of its properties. To the right of the track is located a 10-stamp quartz mill, the ores for which come from the moun- tains on the left The Rye Patch and El- dorado mining Districts are to the left, from five to fifteen miles distant, for which most of the supplies are hauled from this station. Oreana — is reached after passing over a rough, uneven country for 10.13 miles. To the southeastward are located a num- ber of mining districts, in which are lo- cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- ing works. Leaving the station to the west, the long gray line of the desert is seen cheerless and desolate. We draw near the river again and catch occasional glimpses of narrow, green meadows, with here and there a farm-house by the river-side; pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill — on the Humboldt River — to the right, which has been dammed near by to afford water power. Five miles from the station we cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, which here winds away on our left until it reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The current and volume of the river has been materially reduced since we left it at the head of the Big Bend. liOvelocks— 11.86 miles from Ore- ana, derives its name from an old meadow ranche which is situated near, upon which, during the summer, large quantities of hay are cut and baled for market. Some at- tempt has been made at farming near by, but little of the country is adapted to the purpose. Cattle and sheep raising is the principal occupation of the people— but few herds will be seen hereafter on our route. Reliable authority places the num. ber of head of stock now along the Hum- boldt River and adjacent valleys— 1878— cattle, 353,000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. During the year there were shipped from the same section to Chicago 20 car-loads of cattle, and 486 car-loads to San Francisco. Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands along the bottom get narrower, and finally fade from sight altogether, and we find ourselves fairly out on the Great Nevada Desert — This desert occupies the largest portion of the Ne- vada Basin. In this section, to the north- ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Hum- boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, which receive the waters of several large rivers and numerous small creeks. As we have before stated, ihey form a portion of that vast desert belt which constitutes the central area of the Nevada Basin. The desert consists of barren plains destitute of wood or water, and low, broken hills, which afford but little wood, water or grass. It is a part of that belt which can be traced through the whole length of tbe State, from Oregon to Arizona, and far into the interior of that Territory. The Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country east of Walker's Lake, are part of this great division which extends southward, continued by those desolate plains, to the east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- nate Buel party suffered so terribly in their attempt to reach the Colorado River. Throughout this vast extent of territory the same characteristics are found — evi. deuces of recent volcanic action — alkaline flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandy wastes abounding in all portions of this great belt. Although this desert is generally spoken of as a sandy waste, sand does not predom- inate. Sand hills and flats occur at inter- vals, but the main bed of the desert is lava and clay combined — one as destitute of the power of creating or supporting vegetable life as the other. The action of the elements has covered these clay and lava deposits with a coarse dust, resembling sand, which is blown about and deposited in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. Where more of sand than clay is found, the sage-brush occasionally appears to have obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely ti'ies to retain it. Oranite Point— a flag station, is 8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, an occasional glimpse of Humboldt Lake, which lies to the left of the road, can be obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- ther, at Brofm's — This station is situated about midway of the northern shore, directly opposite Humboldt Lake — This body of water is about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in reality a widening of the Humboldt River, which after coursing through 350 miles of country, empties its waters into this basin. Through this basin the water flows to the plains beyond by an outlet at the lower end of the lake, uniting with the waters of the sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 141 miles distant. During the wet season, -vrhen the swollen rivers have overflowed the low lands around the lakes and united them, they form a very respectable sheet of water, about eighty miles or more in length, with a large river emptying its waters into each end ; and for this vast volume of water there is no visible outlet. Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a dam has been erected, which has raised the water about six feet, completely oblit- erating the old emigrant road which passed close to the southern shore. The necessi- ties of mining have at length utilized the waters of the lake, and now they are em- ployed in turning the machinery of a quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake is an island — along narrow strip of land — which extends up the lake and near the northern shore. Before the dam was put in the outlet, this island was part of the main land. There are several varieties of fish in the lake, and an abundance of water-fowl during portions of the year. Leaving Brown's, and passing alon^ the shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- vening sand ridge hides the lake from our sight, and about eight miles west we ob- tain a fine view of the Sink of Carson Lake, which is a small body of water lying a few miles north of the main Carson Lake, and connected with that and the Humboldt dur- ing the wet season. Carson Lake lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a width of ten miles. In the winter its waters cover considerable more area, the Sink and lake being one. The Carson River empties into the south- ern end of the lake, discharging a large volume of water. What becoraps of the vast body of water continually pouring into these lakes, is the problem yet un- solved. Some claim the existence of un- derground channels, and terrible stories are told of unfortunate people who have been drawn down and disappeared for- ever. These stories must be taken with much allowance. If underground chan- nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water are united during the winter floods? And how is it, that when the waters have subsided from these alkaline plains, that no openings for these channels are visible ? The only rational theory for the escape of the water is by evaporation. Examine each little sti eam bed that you meet with ; you find no water there in the summer, nor sink holes, yet in the winter their beds are full until they reach the main river. The sun is so powerful on these lava plains in summer that the water evapo* rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling shadows of the hills. By acutal experi- ment it has been demonstrated that at Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- tion of water is equal, in the summer, to six inches every 24 hours. In* the winter, when the atmosphere is more humid, evap. oration is less, consequently the waters spread over a larger area. Carson River, which gives its name to the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake Tahoe and opposite the head waters of the American River. From its source to its mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- er's course. From its source its course is about due north for about 75 miles, when it turns to the east, and follows that direction until it enters the lake. Under the general name of Carson Val- ley, the land bordering the river has long been celebrated as being one of the best farming sections in the State. The thriv- ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are situated in the vallc}^, though that portion around Carson City is frequently designa- ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, from Carson to the foothills, is very fertile, and yields handsome crops of vegetables, though irrigation is necessary to insure a good yield. In some portions the small grains are successfully cultivated, and on the low lands an abundant crop of grass is produced. The valley is thickly settled, the arable land being mostly occupied. South and west of the head waters of Car- son River, the head waters of Walker's River find their source. The west fork of Walker's River rises within a few miles of the eastern branches of the Carson. The east fork of Walker's River runs due north until joined by the west fork, when the course of the river is east for about forty miles, M'hen it turns to the south, following that direction until it reaches Walker's Lake, about forty miles south of the sink of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- ous course about 140 miles. In the val- leys, which are found at intervals alon^ the rivers, occasional spots of arable land are found, but as an agricultural country the valley of Walker's River is not a success. Walker Lake is about 45 miles long by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in the basin, it has no outlet. The water is 142 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. brackish and strongly impregnated with alkali. The general characteristics of the other lakes in the great basin belong to this also ; the description of one embracing all points belonging to the others. IVhite Plains— is 12.17 miles west of Brown's. This station is the low- est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As indicated by the name, the plains imme- diately around the station are white with alkali, solid beds of which slope away to the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. Ko vegetation meets the eye when gazing on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly down on this barren scene, burning and withering, as though they would crush out any attempt which nature might make to introduce vegetable life. The water to fill the big tank at the sta- tion is pumped from the " Sink " by means of a stationary engine, which is situated about midway between the station and the Sink. Mirage— is 7.96 miles from White Plains. This station is named for that cu- rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) which is often witnessed on the desert. In early days the toil-worn emigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, which appeared to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and fol- lowed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he had followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the ap- pearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and Ihe running waters; we have seen them all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they appeared too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions, until, overcome with thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach ; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more. Onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty miles an hour; rolling over the alkali and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a thought to those who, in early days, sut- fered so fearfully while crossing these plains, and, perchance, left their bones to bleach and whiten upon these barren sands. Hot ^Springs — is 6.57 miles west of Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can be seen more of these bubbling, spurting curiosities — these escape pipes, or safety valves for the discharge of the super-abun- dant steam inside the globe, which are scattered over the great basin. Extensive salt works are located at this station, from which a car-load or more of salt is shipped daily. The salt springs are about four miles west of the station. The Saxon American Borax Co. have erected w^orks here which cost about $200,- 000. They are situated a half-mile south of the station, in plain view. Passing on, we find no change to note, unless it be that the betU of alkali are oc- casionally intermixed with brown jmtches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage-brush occasionally break the monotony of the scene. It is worthy of notice thatthis hardy shrub is never found growing singly and alone. The reason for it is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It must have help ; consequently we find it in clumps for mutual aid and protection. Desert- is 11.7 miles from Hot Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the next 5.97 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti-" tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 83 feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at Wadsworth— This town is situated on the east bank of the Truckee River and the western border of the desert, and con- tains some good buildings, and a popula- tion of about 600. The division workshops are located here, and consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land has betn fenced in, set out with trees, a fountain erected, and a sward formed, by sowing grass-seed and irrigating it — mak- ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable freight is shipped from this station to min- ing camps to the south. Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles south of the town. They attract little at- tention, that mineral not being much sought after. Ten miles south are the Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- crofutt's new overland tourist 143 SNOW SHEDS — SEE PAGE 15G ing quartz lodes. Some of the mines there are considered very rich. Ninety- miles south, at Columbus, are located the famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be very rich. The Piute In- cians have two reservations; one is situated eighteen miles northward, and another to the southeast, at Walker Lake. Leaving Wadsworth,we cross the Truc- I kee River, on a Howe truss bridge, our course being to the southwest. This stream rises in Lakes Tab oe and Donner, which lie at the east- ern base of the Sierras, about 80 miles dis- tant. From its source in Lake T a h o e , the I ranch runs north tor about twelve miles, w h en — near TiuckeeCitjr— it unites with Little Truckee, the outlet of Donner Lake, and turns to the east,follow- ing that course until it reaches this place, where it turns north about 25 miles, branch- es, and one por-, tion enters Pyr- amid and the other Winne- iiiucca Lake. The level lands border- ingtheTruckee consist mostly of gravelly upland covered with sage-brush. It is claimed that they might be rendered productive by irriga- tion, and the experiment has been tried in a small way, but with no flattering result 144 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE The upper portions of the valley, especially that which borders on Lake Tahoe, is ex- cellent farming land. Between these two points— the meadows and the lake — but little meadow land is found, the val- ley being reduced to narrow strips of low land in the canyons and narrows, and broad, gravelly uplands in the more open country. I^alvia — a small side-track, comes next after Wadsworth, 7.25 miles distant. Soon we pass around a lava blufi', called Red Rock, on the right, and 7.55 miles brings us to Clark's — in a round valley, sur- rounded by fenced fields, where good crops of vegetables are raised for market in mining towns to the south. From Clark's, it is 11.96 miles to Vista — a sm'all station situated on the northern edge of what is known as the Truckee Meadows. In early days these meadows were a noted rendezvous of the emigrants, who camped here for days to recruit their teams after crossing the desert. They have an extent of about twelve miles in length by about two miles in width, inclosing considerable excellent grass land. Vegetables and small grains are successfully cultivated on portions of the moist land. Reno — is 7.64 miles from Vista; is the county seat of Washo county, and contains a population of about 1,500. It was named in honor of General Reno, who was killed at the battle of South Mountain. This city has rapidly improved within the last six years, and now contains five church edifices, two banks, a fine court-house, a number of good business blocks, a steam fire department, several small factories, two daily news- papers, the Journal and the Gazette^ and is tiie distributing point for an enormous freighting business to the north, as well as the south. Some good agricultural land surrounds the town, as well as muAy herds of cattle and sheep. The State Agricul- tural grounds are located here, in which is a very fine race track. The Lake House is the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for Susanville, 90 miles. The English works are near the town, affording excellent means by which to test the ores discoverea in the neighborhood. The greatest mining region in the world is reached via Reno. Virginia City, located over the mountain to the southeast, from this station is only 21 miles distant, by the old wagon road, but by rail it is 52 m'les. Before the completion of this road, Vir- ginia City was reached by stage, over a fearfully steep zig-zag mountain road, but the difference between the " old and the new" is more than made up in the com- fort of the passage if not in time. At the time when these stages were run- ning to convey passengers, a fast " Pony Express " was run for the purpose of carry- ing Wells, Fargo & Co.'s letter bags. This pony express was once a great institution. Approaching Reno, the traveler could have observed that the mail express bags were thrown from the cars before the train had ceased its motion. By watching the pro- ceedings still further he would see that they are transferred to the backs of stout horses, already bestrode by light, wiry riders. In a moment all is ready, and away they dash under whip and spur to the next station, when, changing horses, they are off again. Three relays of horses were used, ana some " good time " was often made by these riders. Let us take a run up and see this nuge Bo7ianza Country. Virginia & Truckee Railroad* Principal ofllce, Carson, Nevada. D. 0, Mills PresH San Faancisco, H. M. YviRi^aroN....Gen'liSup''t.... Carson, Ne'9, D. A. Bendeb QerCl T.A.... " " This load was commenced at Carson City, March 19th, 1869, completed to Vir. ginia City in the following November, and to Reno in 1871. The length is 52.2 miles; tue grade in places is 115 feet to the mile, and there are six tunnels, of the aggregate length of 3,000 feet; the shortest curve ia 19 degrees— between Gold Hill and Vir. ginia City. The train for Virginia stands on the oppo- site side of the station building from the C. P. Let us step on board. From Reno, our course is east of south, crossing a por- tion of the Truckee Meadows, a few well- cultivated fields and greater quantities of sage and grease-wood. The first station on the bills is 3.5 miles from Reno,- called Anderson's — but we do not stop. Cross- ing the river, we pass the first of a series of V-shaped flumes, which are constructed to float down wood and lumber from the mountains. The one we are now passing is said to be 15 miles in length. HuFFAKER's — comcs ncxt — after 3.6 miles, where another flume is passed, both of which are on the right, and land their crofutt's new overland tourist 145 freight — wood — close to the track of our road. Along here we find some broad meadows on the left, hut sage on the right. Passing over 1.9 miles from the last station we arrive at Brown's — Here is the end of another flume, and 2.4 miles further, and after curving around to the right, up a broad valley, arrive at the Steamboat Spkings — which are eleven miles south of Reno. There are several of these curious springs within a short dis- tance of the road. They are near each other, all having a common source, though different outlets, apparently. They are sit uated to the right of the road, just before reaching the station, a short distance above the track ; are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and ar - very hot, though the tem- perature varies in different springs. They are said to possess excellent me- dicinal qualities. At times they are quite active, emitting jets of water and clouds of steam, which at a distance resemble the blowing off of steam from a large boiler. The ground around them is soft and treach- erous in places, as though it had been thrown up by the springs, and had not yet cooled or hardened. It is related that once upon a time, when a party of emigrants, who were toiling across the plains, arrived near these springs about camping time, they sent a man ahead — a Dutchman — to look out for a suitable place for camping — one where water and grass could be ob- tained. In his search the Dutchman dis- covered these springs, which happened to be quiet at the time, and knelt down to' take a drink of the clear, nice-looking water. Just at that instant a jet of spray was thrown out, and over the astonished Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he dashed away to the train, shouting at the top of his voice, "Drive on! drive on! h — 1 is not five miles from this place!" Guess the innocent fellow firmly believed what he uttered. ^ The traveler will find the springs suffi- ciently interesting to repay him for the trouble of pausing here awhile and taking a look around. At the station will be found a comfortable hotel, ample bath ac- commodations, and about a half-dozen resi- dences. Leaving the springs, our course is south, up a narrow valley, in which is some good farming land, with high bluffs on each side ; cross and re-cross Steamboat Creek, curve to the right through a narrow canyon 10 where there are many evidences of placer mining ; twist and climb, between high pro- jecting cliffs, and suddenly emerge into a great valley, and stop at Washoe City— Ah ! here is a child of the past. In its palmy days Washoe was as lively a city, or camp, as could be found in the whole mining region. Where thou- sands of people once toiled, there are now only a few dozen, and most of those are engaged in other pursuits than mining. On the right is another flume for floating wood from the mountains on the west- ward. The valley near this place is from half to a mile in width, surrounded by high moun- tains, thehighest peak of which is Mt. Rose, at the south end of the valley, over 8,000 feet in height. The mountains on the east are bare, with some sage and bunch-grass, while those on the west are covered, the greater part, with pine and spruce timber. Leaving Washoe, we pass, on the left, the Old OphirMill, a stone building — now in ruins — which once gave employment to about 150 men, besides a $30,000 a year superintendent. Franktown — is 4.7 miles from Washoe,a growing station in the midst of Washoe valley ; population about 150. A "V" flume comes down on the right. There are some good farming lands along here, but the greater portion is only adapted for grazing purposes. Washoe Lake, on the left, is about four miles long and one mile wide. On the east side of the lake is Bower^s Hotel, a great resort in the summer for pic-nic par- ties from the cities to the southward. From Franktown it is 2.6 miles to MiLii Station— near the site of an old mill, where another "V" flume comes down from the mountains on the right, making six since leaving Reno. Proceed ng south, the valley narrows and is soon crowded out completely, and we rise up onto the southern rim; and then, a look back will take in the wholf valley and lake from end to end, and f beautiful view it is. At this narrow gorg« the railroad track crosses the great Water Syphon, through which th< water is conducted from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, on the west, across this narrow forge, for supplying Virginia City, Gold [ill and Silver City. It is an achievement which finds no parallel in the history of hydraulic engineering. The total length 146 crofutt's new overland tourist of the pipe used is but little less than seven miles. At the point where the water is taken from DalPs Creek, up in the Sierras, it is brought in an 18-inch flume, four miles long, to the point of a spur on the west side of Washoe Valley, the height of which is '2,100 feet above the railroad track. At the point where the water in the flume reaches the spur it is received in an iron pipe, which, after running along the crest, descending, crossing and ascending twelve steep canons on its route, finally descends into this gorge, crosses it from the west, and ascends the cliff on the east side to a height of 1,540 feet, where it is taken by another flume and conducted to a reservoir on the Divide between Virginia City and Gold Hill. The pipe has an orifice twelve inches in diameter, and where the pressure is the greatest, is five-six- teenths of an inch in thickness, riveted with five- eighth inch rivets in double rows. "Where the press- ure lessens, the thickness of the material gradual- ly decreases. The amount of rolled iron used in constructing the pipe was 1,150,000 lbs. One million rivets and 52,000 lbs of lead were used on the pipe. Before being used each length of pipe— 26 feet long each — was heated to a temperature of 380 degrees, and submerged in a bath of asphaltum and coal tar, to prevent corroding. At the bottom of each depression there is a blow-off cock, for removing any sediment that might accu- mulate, and at each elevation is an air- cock to let out the air when the water is first introduced into the pipes. Where the water pipe runs under the railroad Giant Geyser, Yellowstone Park. Ko. $M: Annex. Hauling: Orefv in Hides— On a recent visit to Little Cotton- •wood Canon, Utah, we saw a very novel con- trivance being used by the Emma Mining Company, whose mine is situated about 1,- 000 feet above the railroad depot, on the surrounded by a massive Iron sleeve, 12 feet long, to protect it from the jar of passing trains. This pipe is capable of fur- nishing 2,000,000 gallons daily. The whole cost of construction was seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A movement is now on foot to lay another and larger side of the mountains. The snow was several feet deep, and the ore was being hauled down to the depot in drags. The drags consisted of a gi-eeu ox hide. The ore is first sewed up in sacks of 100 lbs. each, then placed on the hide, which has loops around the edge, and when 15 of these sacks are in position, a rope is run through the loops in the hide, the edges di-awn together, then a mule or horse is hitched to the head poi-tion of the hide— with the hair outwards— and a brake to the tail. The brake is of iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, with teeth that drag through the snow, holding back. In coming down the hill the driver stands on the hide, but when it becomes necessary on account of heavy grade to " dmvn brakes," the driver changes his ^ position and stands on the horse-shoe instead of '-.1 the hide. The first half of a wagon train is called the " right wing," the other half the "left wing." Informing a corral, the wagons of the " right wing" form a half circle on the right hand side of the road, hauled close together, teams on the outside ; the "left" wing" forms on the left side in the same manner, leaving a passage \7ay open at the front and rear ends of each " wing." called gaps. "A O O Pi^ Od O C^" > o u ;zf o s < ckofutt's new overland tourist 147 pipe near the present one. From Mill station it is 2.5 miles to Lake View — situated just south of the southern lim of the Washoe Valley, in the gorge above alluded to. Soon after leaving the station, we pass into a tunnel, through a projecting cliflf, which shoots out from the right, and comes out on the side of the mountain overlooking the beautiful Eagle or Carson Valley. Away in the distance, four miles away, can be seen Carson City, a little further, Carson River, and beyond both, the mountains, just beyond which is Walker's River, and then Walker's Lake. Winding and descending around the side of the mountain, through numerous rocky cuts, a distance of 4.6 miles from Lake View, we arrive at Carson City — the capital of the State of Nevada. It is situated in Eagle Valley, on the Carson River, at the foot of the eastern base of the Sierras, and contains about 4,000 population; is 31.1 miles south from Reno, and 21.1 miles southwest from Virginia City. It is the oldest town in the State, and has a good many fine private and public buildings. The town is ta stefully decorated with shade trees, and has an abundance of good water. The United States Branch Mint of Nevada is located here. The capital is located in the center of a Plaza, and is surrounded by an iron fence. It is two stoiy and basement, made of cut stone. Carson is a busy city, has some good blocks of buildings, several good hotels, chief of which is the Ormsby; four churches, five schools, two daily newspa- pers — the Morning Appeal and the Nevada Tribune. Here are located the machine shops of the Railroad Company, and several manufactories. Carson City is in the center of the best farming land on Carson River, and the best in this part of the State, and is the distributing point for a vast amount of freight, destined for the southern mines. . To the south of the city, comes down the large "V" flume from the Sierras, via. Clear Creek Canyon, owned by the Railroad Company through which thou sands of cords of wood and millions of feet of lumber are landed at Carson weekly. Four and six horse coaches leave Carson daily, carrying passengers, mails and express. From Carson to Monitor, the distance is 46 miles, and to Silver Mountain, in Alpine county, Cal., 64 miles ; to Bishop's Creek, 192 miles ; 10 Benton, 150 miles in Mono ccmty, Cal., Sweetwater, 73 miles, Aurora, 105 miles, Bodie, 119 miles, Mariette, 145 miles. Bell, ville, 155 miles, Candelaria, 165 mihs, Columbus, 173 miles and Silver Peak, 228 miles in Esmeralda county, Nevada, — To Independence, is 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 252 miles, and Cerro Gordo, 274 miles, in Inyo county, Cal. The fare to these places averages about 15 cents per mile. A sta^e also runs to Genoa and Markle ville, and in the summer to Lake Tahoe, at Glenbrook, 15 miles. This line connects at Tahoe City, with stages for Truckee, the Summit, and also with the new line over the mountains to the Calavaras Grove. Leaving Carson, our course is to the northeast, across a broad bottom. To the right, about two miles distant, beside a round butte, is a large building— a huge boarding-house — conducted by the State. The guests are numerous, and are not inmates of their own free will, but by due course of law, and when the law is satisfied, it is hoped they will leave this States Prison and become better citizens. Near the prison are the Carson Warpi Springs, where are ample accommodations for bathing. Lookout — is the first station from Car- son, 1.1 miles distant, but our cars lookout not to stop, and 1.3 miles further, brings Empire — This is a town of about 1,000 population, situated on the north bank of Carson River. Here are located the big Spanish or Mexican mill, on the right, then the Morgan or Yellow Jacket mill, and then the Empire. Passing on, down the bank of the Carson, we curve around the point of a bluff, pass the Brunswick mill on the left, near the station of the same name, 1.3 miles from Empire. Soon the valley is crowded out, and we enter a canyon, with the river to our right, just below, as we are now climbing up a heavy grade. To our tight, but far below, is the Vivian, and the Merrimac mills, nearly one mile from the Brunswick. Continuing' on up, still up- ward, we come to the Santiago mill, 1.8 miles further. This mill is situated about 500 feet below the road, on the right, and almost under it. Shutes run from the track above to the mill below, for dumping ore or coal. The road is now far up on the side of the mountain, much of the way blasted out from the solid rock, and very crooked. The canyon on the Carson River is far below, on the right, and soon will be lost to view. 148 ckofutt's new overland tourist Eureka— is half a mile from Santi- ago,with a narrow-gauge track on our right, away down the river. Near the track on the right, is the dump-shute of the Eureka mill. Ascending rapid- ly and tortuously it is two miles to Mound House.— Here connections are made with the Carison & Colorado Railroad. General Office, Carson. H. M. Yebington PresirJent and Gen'l Supt. J). A. Bendeb Qen'lF. & P. Agent. This railroad— a three -f opt narrow gauge — was completed and opened for business April 18, 1881, to Hawthorne, a distance of 100 miles from Mound House,and trains run regularly in con- nection with the V. & T. R. R. Stages leave Hawthorne daily for: Aurora, 26 miles ;Bodie, 37 miles; Candelaria, 50 miles; Columbus, 55, miles; and con- necting for Belmont, Silver Peak, Montezuma, Gold Mountain, Benton and Independence. SuTRo Tunnel. — This tunnel is one of the most important enterprises ev- er inaugurated in mining operations in this or any other country. The ob- ject sought is. ventilation, drainage, and a cheap means of working the mines, or bringing the ores to the sur- face. The tunnel commences in the valley of the Carson River; is 14 feet wide at the bottom, 13 feet at the top, and 10 feet high. The main tunnel is 20,018 feet in length, and the cross tunnels will be about 12,000 feet more. The tunnel strikes the Comstock ledge at a depth 2,000 feet below the point of the crop- pings. The work of extending the cross tunnels is being pushed ahead vigor- ously. Distance from Mound House to Sutro, five miles. Near Mound House is a gypsum mine of good quality, large amounts ofwhich are shippedto San Francisco. A track branches off near the station, to the right, for Silver City, situated about two miles to the eastward", in a narrow caiion, in plain view, where are located a number of quartz mills. Silver — is the next station, 3.3 miles from Mound House. Here ore is dumped down a shute to the right, and taken to the mills below. The best view of Silver City— a place of 1,000 population, all of whom are en- gaged in mining, having one news- paper, the Reporter— can now be had on the right ; curving around to the left, we come to the American Flat tunnel, 900 feet long. It was at this tunnel where a thrill- ing incident occurred, October 17, 1872. (See Annex No. 34.) The fire alluded to in the annex cost the Railroad Company $500,000. It took two months to replace the timbering, during which time all passengers, freight, mails and express, had to be transferred by teams. Passing through the tunnel, Mt. David- son looms up directly ahead, 7,827 feet above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill — far away, in a narrow canyon. The train runs around the side of the mountain, de- scribing a great curve to the north and eastward, passing numerous mills, among which are the Rock Island, down on the right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, and many other mills, both on the right and left, and finally cross over a huge mill, and one of the principal streets of the city of Gold Hill, which extends to the left up a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in the city of Gold Hill — This is a flourishing min- ing city, 19 miles from Carson aad two from Virginia; population, 6,000. It con- siits mostly of one main street, built along a steep ravine. The city has some good buildings, among which are one good horel, the Vesey House ; and onedaily news- paper, the Gold Hill News. The city is sur- rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and kinds, and all is noise and business night and day. The street between Gold Hill and Virginia is so generally built up that one cannot tell where the dividing line is between them. An omnibus line plies be- tween the two cities, running every fifteen minutes. Pas-ing on from Gold Hill two miles, around sharp curves, through three sliort tunnels in quick successirm, with mills to the right, mills to the left, and mills all around us, we arrive at Virginia City — This city is on the southeastern slope of Mt. Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built along the side f f the mountain— one main street, with numerous steep cross-streets — and contains some very fine business blocks. Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 miles by rail, from Reno, and contains a population of about 16,000, a great propor- tion of whom are engaged in mining op- crofutt's new ovekland tourist 149 erations immediately under the city^ from 1,500 to 2,200 feet. The Enterprise and tlie Chronicle — both daily and weekly papers — are published here. The religious and educational interests are well represented by churches and schools. There are a number of hotels in the city, at which the traveler will find good ac- commodations. The International, is the principal one. At both Virginia and Gold Hill, are located great numbers of smelling furnaces, reduction works and stamp mills, all thun- dering away, night and day. The fires from these works, at night, light up with a lurid glare all surroundmg objects. There are no two cities in the world moreccs- mopolitan; here, meet and jostle, the peo- ple from every land and clime; the rich and the poor ; the miser and the spend- thrift; the morose and jolly. /S*:// here predominates. "Rich to-day, poor to- morrow," is the rule. All gamble in min- ing stocks, from the boot-black or servant girl to the Rev. JSIr. Whitetie, or the Bo- nanza-Nabob. The wLole people are alive to each movement of the " stock indica- tors," as much as the " Snowballs " were in Baltimore twenty-five years ago on the lottery and policy business; 4-11-41 "waj their god; the tick of the "indicator" is the god of this people. The saying that " It is not birth, nor wealth, nor State— its git up and git that makes men great," has been thoroughly demonstrated by many ot the citizens of Virginia City and Gold Hill. Early History— The first gold mines were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby, and some others, who commenced mining in Gold _ Canyon (Gold Hill), and continued working the place with indifferent success until lb59. The first quartz claim was lo- cated by James JTinney, better known as " Old Virginia," on the 22d of February, 1858, in the Virginia minir.g district and on the "Virginia Croppings." The old prospector gave his name to the city, crop- pings and district. In June, 1859, rich de- posits of silver ore were discovered by Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, on what is now the ground of the Ophir Mining Company. They were engaged in gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in excavating a place wherein to catch a sup- ply of water for their rockers. The dis- covery was made on ground claimed by Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was employed to purchase the claims of Kirby and those holding with him, hence, Com- stock's name was given to the lode. The Comstock Lode — is about four miles in length, the out-croppings extend- ing in a broad belt along the mountain side. It extends under Virginia City and Gold Hill; the ground on which these cities are built bemg all " honey-combed " or undermined ; in fact, the whole moun- tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- erns from which the ore has been taken. The vein is broken and irregular at inter- vals along its length as far as traced, owing to the formation of the mountain. It is also v.ery irregular in thickness. In some places the fissure ranges from 30 to as high as 200 feet in width, while at other points the walls come close together. The great- est variation in width occurs at a depth of from 400 to 600 feet from the surface. The principal silver ores of this lode are steph- anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and very rich galena. Pyrargyrite, or ruby silver, horn silver and polybasite, are found in small quantities, together with iron and copper pyrites, zinc-blende, car- bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native gold. The number of mills in and around Gold Hill and Virginia, and at other points, which work on ore from this lons for travelers — a good hotel, boats, and ^ well-stocked stable. According to the survey of the State line, Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five counties. The line between California and Nevada runs north and south through the lake, until it reaches a certain point therein, when it changes to a course 17 degs. east of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado and Placer, in California, and Washoe, Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the line was surveyed through the lake it is 1,700 feet deep. There are three steamboats on the lake' but only one, the "Stanford," takes ex- cursionists. The trip on this steamer is very fine, but for our personal use, not the way we like to travel for sight-seeing, at this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. Our choice is a good saddle animal, or a good team of horses, an agreeable com- panion, and start around the western shore. Six miles from Tahoe, over a beautiful road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of mountains covered with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, for all uses, found on the Pacific coast. Tliere are fine streams running into the lake on each side of the point. We now arrive at Emerald Bay, a beautiful, placid inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but CROPUTt's NSW OVERLAND TOURIST 153 widens to two miles inland, forming one of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the world. It is owned by Ben Holiday. At the south end of Tahoe, near the site of the Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake Valley Creek enters the lake, having wound among the hills for many miles since it left the springs and snows which feed it. The valley of Lake Creek is one of the loveliest to be found among the Sierras. The whole distance, from the mountain slope to the lake, is one continual series of verdant meadows, dotted with milk ranches, where the choicest butter and cheese are manufactured. The next ob- ject of interest met with is a relic of the palmy days of staging : Friday Station, an old stage station, established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles further on we come to the Glenbrook House a favorite resort for tourists. Fr.ni Glen- brook House there is a fine road to Carson City, between which ply regular stages. This is a lovely place, and a business place too, as a half-dozen saw mills are located here, which turn out a million and a half feet of lumber weekly. Four miles further we come to The Cave, a cavern in the hillside fully 100 feet above and overhanging the lake. Folloming around to the north end of the lake, ana but a short distance away, are the celebrated Hot Springs, lying just across the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally devoid of miseral taste. The next object whickattracts our attention is Cornelian Bay, a beautiful indeniure in the coast, with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge is not smooth and easy. Passing on around to the westside we re- turn to Tahoe City. Around the lake the land is generally level, for some distance back, and covered with pine, fir and bal- sam timber, embracing at least 300 sections of as fine tmibered land as the State afi'ords. It is easy of access and handy to market, the logs leing rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the gerteral appearance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one must go there and spend a short time. When once there, sailing on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in the hand like a willow wand, few will have a desire to hurry away. If one tires of the line and of strolling along the beach, or sailing over the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun will be rewarded by the sight of quail, grouse, deer and possibly a bear. We have now circled the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. While on a recent visit to San Fran- Cisco, we learned, on good authority, that a movement was on foot, ur^ed by several capitalists in that city, to build a large hotel at Tallac Point during the year, from which a stage line will convey passengers over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big Trees; distance 65 miles; fare, about $20. This would certainly be a lovely trip, passing as it does, through the grandest of the High Sierra range, and to the noted Blue Lake, so long talked about as the great reservoir from which the City of San Francisco is to be supplied with water in the future. For scenery, variety of game, trout, etc., this route will be found very attractive. We will now return to Truckee. DoNNER Lake— a lovely little lakelet, the "Gem of the Sierras," lies two and a half miles northwest of Truckee. It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and at the deep- est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to be the craters of old volcanoes, the moun- tains around them presenting unmistak- able evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water 50 feet deep. It is surrounded on three sides by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- mense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil upward to the " Summit," and the few cabins scattered here and there along the shore, one would fancy that he was in one of nature's secret retreats, where man had never ventured before. A small stream, which tumbles down the mountain side, winds its way through the dense wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rests against the foot of " Summit " Mountain. From the Lake House, situated as it is on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, 154 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. a very fine view of the railroad can be ob- tained. Within sight are four tunnels and several miles of snow-sheds, while behind and seemingly overhanging the road, the mountains — bald, bleak, bare, massive piles of granite — tower far above their precipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A fine road has been gradea along the right-hand shore, from the station, forming a splendid drive. The " old emigrant road " skirts the foot of the lake (where the Donner party per- ished, see Annex No. 33), and following up the stage road, climbs the " Summit "just beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it struck the Divide at Summit Valley ; from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest- spur, and followed the Divide down from Emigrant Gap. The business of lumbering is carried on quite extensively at the lower end of the lake. The logs are slid down the moun- tain sides in "shoots," or troughs made of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted down to the mill. On the west side of the lake the timber has not been disturbed, but sweeps down from the railroad to the water's edge in one dense unbroken forest. The lower end of the lake is bordered with green meadows, covering an extent of several hundred acres of fine grazing land. From the foot of the lake issues a beautiful creek, which, after uniting with Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee Kiver. Coldstream — is a clear, cold mountain stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite Summit Valley. Some excellent grazing land borders the creek after it leaves the mountain gorge. Fishing and Hunting— In Donner and Tahoe lakes is found the silver trout, which attains the weight of 20 pounds. There are many varieties of fish in these lakes,but this is most prized and most sought after by the angler. It is rare sport to bring to the water's edge one of these sleek-hided, sharp-biting fellows — to handle him delicately and daintily until he is safely landed; and then, when fried, baked, or broiled brown, the employment of the jaws to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels — it's not bad jawing. The water near the lake shore is fairly alive with white fish, dace, rock-fish, and several other varieties — the trout keeping in deeper water. There is no more favorite resort for the angler and hunter than these lakes and the surround- ing mountains, where quail, grouse, deer, and bear abound. These lakes were once a favorite resort for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," who annually visit thi \ locality during the summer vacation. The Railroad Company generally passed them over the route, and they had a happ^ week — romping, scram- bling and wandering over the mountains, and along the lake shore, giving new life and animation to the scene. The gray old hills and mighty forests re-echo with their merry laughter, as they stroll around the lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- haps, essaying their skill as anglers, to the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants of the lake. Sierra Valley — lies about 30 miles from Truckee City, among the Sierras, It is about 40 miles long, with a width of from five to seven miles. It is fertile, thickly settled, and taken in connection with some other mountain valleys, might be termed the Orange county of California — from the quantity and quality of butter and cheese manufactured there. In the mountain valleys and on the table-lands the best butter* and cheese found in the State are manufactured— the low valleys being too warm, and the grasses and water not so good as found here. In Sierra, and many other mountain valleys, good crops of grain and vegetables are grown in favorable seasons, but the surest and most profitable business is dairying. The flourishing town of Royalton is situated in this valle3\ Honey Lake — an almost circular sheet of M-ater, about ten miles in diameter, lies about 50 miles north of Truckee City. Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at the north, while Lone Valley Creek empties its waters into the southern por- tion of the lake. Some fine meadow and grazing land is found in the valleys bordering these streams, which has been occupied by settlers, and converted into flourishing farms. Susanville, the principal town in the valley, is situated north cf the lake. It is connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, and Oroville, California. We now take leave of Truckee City and its surroundings, and prepare to cross the "Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- tant. With two locomotives leading, we cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make ckofutt's new ovekland tourist 155 directly across the broken land bordering the lake meadows, for the foot of the Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, through long snow sheds, with the spark- ling Coldstream on our right, winding through the grassey valley and among waving pines, for 6.53 miles, we pass IStrong's Canyon — and bend, around the southern end of the valley, which borders Donner Lake, then crossing Coldstream, commence the ascent of the mountains. Soon after passing this side- track, our train enters a snow-shed, which — with a number of tunnels,— is continuous for twenty-eight mile-i, with but a few " peek-holes," through which to get a glimpse at the beautiful scenery along this part of the route — yet, we shall de- scribe it, all the s: me. As the train skirts the eastern base, rising higher and higher, Donner Lake is far below, looking like a lake of silver set in the shadows of green forests and brown mountains. Up still, the long, black line of the road bending around and seemingly stealing away in the same direction in which we are moving, though far below us, points out the wind- ing course we have followed. Up, still up, higher and higher toils the train, through the long line of snow-sheds leading to the first tunnel, wiiile the loco- motives are snorting an angry defiance as they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. Summit — is 14.31 miles wtst of Truckee, the highest point on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 1,669 miles ; from San Francisco, 245 miles. This is not the highest land of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by any means, for bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite peaks around us, to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Piles of granite— their weather- stained and moss-clad sides glistening in the morning sun— rise between us and the " western shore," hiding from our sight the vast expanse of plain that we know lies be- tween us and the golden shores of the Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy fir and spruce, line the mountain gorges, where rest the everlasting snows that have rested in the deep shady gulches, near the summit of these towering old mountains — who can tell how long? They have lain, evidently, since Adam was a verjr small boy, or the tree sprouted from which our apple-loving ancestor. Eve, plucked that bedeviled fruit. We are on the dividing ridges which separate the head-waters of several moun- tain rivers, which, by different and tor- tuous courses, find at last the same common receptacle for their snow-fed waters— the Sacramento River. Close to our right, far down in that fir-clad gorge, the waters of the South Yuba leap and dance along, amid dense and gloomy forests, and over almost countless rapids, cascades and waterfalls. This stream heads against and far up the Summit, one branch crossing the road at the next station, Cascade. After passing Cisco, the head waters of Bear River can be seen lying between the Divide and the Yuba, which winds away be- yond, out of sight, behind another mountain ridge. Farther on still, and we find the American River on our left. These streams reach the same ending the Sacramento River but are far apa- 1, where they mingle with that stream. There is no grander scenery in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling water- falls and crystal lakes, than abound within an easy distance of this place. The tourist can find scenes of the deepest interest and grandest beauty; the scholar and philoso- pher, objects of rare value for scentific in- vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can find an almost unlimited field for his amusement; the former in the gorges of the mountains, where the timid deer and fierce grizzly bear make their homes ; the latter among the mountain lakes and streams, where the speckle I trout leaps in its joyous freedom, while around all, is the music of snow-fed mountain torrent and mountain breeze, and over all is the clear blue sky of a sunny clime, tempered and softened by the shadows of the everlasting hills. Tunnels and Snow-Sheds —From the time the road enters the crests of the " Sum- mit," it passes through a succession of tun- nels and snow-sheds so closely connected that the traveler can hardly tell when the cars enter or leave a tunnel. The Summit tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 feet long, the others ranging from 100 to 870 feet in length. The snow-sheds are solid structures, built of sawed and round timber, completely roofing in the road for many miles (see illustration, pp. 72-67-143). Wlien the road was completed, there were 23 miles of shed built, at an actual cost of $10,000 per mile. With the additions since made, the line reaches about 45 miles, which includes the 156 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. whole length of the deep snow line on the dividing ridge. When we consider that along the summit the snow falis from 16 to 20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can imagine the necessity and importance of these btructures. By this means the track is as clear from snow in the winter as are the valleys. The mighty avalanches which sweep down the mountain sides in spring, bearing everything before them, pass over the sloping roofs of the sheds and plunge into the chasms below, while beneath the rushing mass the cars glide smoothly along, the passengers hardly knowing but that they are in the midst of an enormous tunnel. Where the road lies clear on the divide or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, like those of any building calculated to withstand a great weight of snow. But where the road is built against the side of these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can have but one slope, and thatmust reach the mountain side, to enable the " snow-slides" to cross the road without doing harm to that or the passing trains. (See illustration, pages, 67 and 143.) Fires sometimes cause damage to sheds and road, but seldom any delay to the trains, as the company have materials of all kinds on hand for any emergency, and, with their swarm of men, can replace everything almost as quick as it is de- stroyed; but, to further protect the snow- sheds and bridges from fire, and the more effectually to extinguish them, the Railroad Company have stationed the locomotive Orey Eagle at the Summit (with steam al- ways up and ready to answer a summons), with a force pump of large capacity, sup- plied with steam from the engine. At- tached to the locomotive are eight water cars, the tanks on which are connected with each other and with the tender of the engine, so that the supply of water will al- ways be suflScientto check any ordinary fire. The Summit House, located at the sta- tion, is one of the best hotels on the road and can furnish tourists with every accom- modation required, while spendiug a few days or weeks exploring this very inter- esting region. Passengers from the West, desiring to visit Lake Tahoe, can take a stage at the Summit House, which will afibrd them a fine view of Donner Lake, while rolling down the mountain and around to the north and east side of it, en route to Tahoe. Eeturning, those who choose, can take the cars for the East, at Truckee, without re- turning to the Summit. Fare for the " round trip," $6.00. Leaving the Summit, we pass on through the long shed, and tunnels alternately, around the base of towering peaks, anon over high, bare ridges, then through grand old forests, for 5.77 miles to Cascade — Here we cross one of the branches of the Yuba, which goes leaping down the rocks in a shower of spray dur- ing the summer, but in the winter the chasm shows naught but a bed of snow and ice. Summit valley, one of the loftiest of the Sierra valleys, lies to the west, a broad, grassy meadow, dotted with trees and ly- ing between two lofty mountains, about two miles long by one mile wide. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, affording pasturage tor large bands of cat- t'e, duiing the summer. It is all occupied by dairymen and stock-raisers, at whose comfortable dwellings the tourist will find a hearty welcome. It is a delightful sum- mer retreat; a favorite resort for those who prefer the mountains, with their cool breezes and pure water. The valley is watered by many springs and snow-fed rivulets, whose waters fl.ow to the Ameri- can River. This valley is becoming noted in a busi- ness point of view, as well as being a place of summer resort. It is becoming cele- brated as a meat packing station, it having been demonstrated that pork and beef can be successfully cured here during any portion of the year. Soda Springs — are situated near the foot of Summit Valley, their waters unit- ing with others, forming the head waters of the American River. The springs are very large and numerous, and the water is pronounced to be the best medicinal water in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool and sparkling, possessing the taste of the best quality of manufactured soda water. The larger of the springs have been im- proved, and great quantities of the water are now bottled and shipped to all parts of the State. Near the S- da Springs are others, the waters of which are devoid of mineral or aciduous taste, and boiling hot. In the summer these springs are much re- sorted to by people from the "Bay." There is a comfortable hotel at the Springs which is reached from the Summit by stage, and sometimes at a side- track, called " Soda crofutt's new overland tourist 157 ■Spring S ation," midway between. Sum- mit and Cascade stations. Tamerack. — is the next station, 4.2 miles from Cascade, and 3.51 miles from Cisco— At one time this was quite an Important place, being the "terminus" during the time occupied in tunneling through the summit ; then^ it was a place of 500 inhabitants, now, a score or so make tip the town. From this station we pass along rapidly and easily, without the help of the locomo- tive. To the right, occasional glimpses of the Bear and Yuba Rivers can be seen far below us. Emigrant Oap— is 8.5 miles west of Cisco, at the place where the old emi- grant road crossed the Divide, and fol- lowed down the ridges to the valley of the Sacramento. The emigrants passed oioer the " gap," we pass under it, making a slight difference in elevation between the two roads, as well as a difference in tlie mode of traveling. We have seen the last of the old emigrant road that we have fol- lowed so far. No more will the weary emi- frant toil over the long and weary journey, pace is annihilated, and the tireless iron horse will henceforth haul an iron wagon over an iron road, landing the tourist and emigrant fresh and hearty, after a week's ride, from the far eastern shores of our country to the far western — from ocean to ocean. Passing on amid the grand old pines, leaving the summit "peaks behind, we turn up Blue Canyon, the road-bed on the oppo- site bank apparently running parallel with the one we are traversing. Swinging around the head of the canyon, past saw- mills and lumber side-tracks, 5.2 miles, we reach Blue Canyon^a freight and lum- ber station, where immense quantities of lumber are shipped from mills in the vicin- ity. Before the railroad reached these mountains, the lumber interest of this sec- tion was of little value, there being only a local demand, which hardly paid for build- ing mills and keeping teams. The mines were then the only market— the cost of freight to the valleys forbidding competi tion with the Puget Sound lumber trade, or with mills situated so much nearer the agricultural districts. Now the lumber can be sent to the valleys, and sold as cheaply as any, in a market rarely overstocked ; for the one item of lumber forms one of the sta- ple market articles, ruling at more regular prices, and being in better demand than any other article of trade, on the coast, if we except wheat. Leaving Blue Canyon, we speed along around the hill-sides, past China Ranch— a side-track, about two miles west. The passenger should now watch the scenery on the left. SShady Run— is 4.72 miles west of Blue Canyon, but passenger trains seldom stop. On the left, south side, can be seen, one of the grandest gorges in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, "The Great American Canyon." (See illustration, page 130). At this point the American River Is com- pressed between two walls, 2,000 feet high, and so nearly perpendicular that we can stand on the brink of the cliff and look directly down on the foaming waters be- low. The canyon is about two miles long, and so precipitous are its sides, which are washed by the torrent, that it has been found impossible to ascend the stream through the gorge, even on foot. This is a beautiful view — one of nature's most mag- nificant panoramas. But we soon lose sight of it, as our train turns to the right, up a side canyon^ 4.84 miles from Shady Run, and stops at Alta — Alta looks old and weather- beaten, and its half-dozen board houses, with sharp roofs, look as though there was little less than a century between the pres- ent and the time when they were ushered into existence — like its namesake in San Francisco, after which it was named. JDntch Flat— is 1.87 miles from Alta ; old settlers call it German Level. The town of Dutch Flat is situated in a hollow, near bv and to the right of the road, a por- tion of it being in plain view. The town contains many good buildings, churches, schools, and hotels. The Farmer, a weekly newspaper, is a new institution at Dutch Flat. Population, about 2,000. One feature of this town is worth noting, and worthy of commendation — the beautiful gardens and fine orchards which ornament almost every house. In almost all of the moun- tain towns — in fact in all of the older min- ing towns — the scene is reproduced, while many of the valley towns are bare of vines, flowers or fruit trees; the miner's cabin has its garden and fruit trees attached, if water can be had for irrigation, while half of the farm-houses have neither fruit trees, shrubs, flowers nor gardens around them. Stages leave this station daily for Little York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight 158 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. teams leave here for all the above named towns and mining camps in this vicinity. Little York — a mining town, three miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains about 500 inhabitants. You Bet — is six miles from Little York, also a mining town, about the same size. Red Dog — seven and a-half miles from You Bet, is still another small mining town. These towns are situated on what is called the Blue Lode, the best large placer mining dis:rict in the State. The traveler will see the evidences of the vast labor performed here, while standing on the platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Flat or Gold Run stations. The Blue Lode ex- tends from below Gold Run, through the length of Nevada, on, into and through a portion of Sierra count/. It is supposed to be the bed of some ancient river, which was much larger than any of the existing mountain s' reams. The course of this old river was nearly at right angles with that followed by the Yuba and other streams, which run across it. The channel is from one to five miles wide in places — at least the gravel hills, which are supposed to cover the bed, extend for that distance across the range. M5,ny of these gravel hills are from 100 to 500 feet high, covered with pine trees from two to six feet in diameter. Petrified trees, oak and pine, and other woods, such as manzanita, mountain maho g a n y and maple, are found in the bed of the river, showing that the same varieties of wood existed when this great change was wrought, as are now growing on the adjacent hill-sides. Hydraulic Mining— The traveler will ob- serve by the road-side, mining ditches and flumes, carrying a large and rapid stream of water. These ditches extend for many miles, tapping the rivers ne&r their sources — near the regions ot perpetud snow. By this means the water is conveyed over the tops of the hills, whence it is carried to any claim below it. The long, high and nar- row flume, called a "telegraph," car- ries the water from the ditch, as nearly level as possible, over the claim to be worked. To the *' telegraph " is at- tached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, through which the w^ater rushes with great velocity. AVhen directed against a gravel bank, it cuts and tears it down, washing the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing to those unacquainted with hydraulic min- ing. (See rccompanying illustration.) The water carries rocks, dirt and sand through the tail race, and into the long flumes, where the riffles for collecting the gold are placed. Miles and miles of the flumes have been built, at an enormous expense, to save the gold carried away in the tail- ings. Around Little York and You Bet, the lode is mixed too much with cement to mine in this manner with profit, licuce mills have been erected where the cement is worked in the same manner as quartz rock — crushed and then amalgamated. Gold Ran — is 2. 13 miles beyond Dutch Flat, and is a small mining town, contain- ing about 200 inhabitants. Around it you HYDRAULIC MIXING, CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 159 can see, on every hand, the miner's work. Long flume beds, which carry off the washed gravel and retain the gold ; long and large ditches full of ice-cold water, which, cfirected by skillful hands, are fast tearing down the mountains and sending the washed debris to fill the river-beds in the plains below. There are a set of "pipes" busily playing against the hill-side, which often comes down in acres. All is life, energj^ and activity. We don't see many children peeping out of those cabins, for they are not so plentful in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. But we do see nearly all of the cabins sur- rounded with little gardens and orchards, which produce the finest of fruits. Descending the mountain rapidly, amid mining claims, by the side of large ditches, through the deep gravel cuts, and along the grassy hill-sides, until, on the left, a glimpse of the North Fork of the Ajneri- can River can be had, foaming and dash- ing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 feet beneath us. Farther on we see the North Fork of the North Fork, dashing down the steep mountain at right angles with the other, leaping from waterfall to waterfall, its sparkling current resembling an airy chain of danc- ing sunbeams, as it has- tens on to unite with the main stream. Now we lose sight of it, while it passes through one of those grand canyons on- ly to be met with in these mountains. C. H. Mills-a sta- tion where trains sel- dom stop, is 5.96 miles from Gold Run. The passenger should be on the lookout, and look to the left — south— as the scene changes with every revolution of the wheels. A few moments ago we left the canyon behind — now, behold, it breaks on our view again, and this time right under us, as it were, but much farther down. It seems as though we could j ump from the platform into the river, so close are we to the brink of the preci- pice; steadily on goes the long train, while far below us the wa- ters dance along, the river looking like a winding thread of silver laid in the bottom of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This is Cape Horn, one of the grandest scenes on the American Continent, if not in the world. Timid ladies will draw back w ith a shudder — one look into the awful chasm being suflBcient to unsettle their nerves, and deprive them of the wish to linger near the grandest scene on the whole line of the trans-continental railroad. Now look farther down the river and behold that black speck spanning the sil- ver line. That is the turnpike bridge on the road to Iowa Hill, though it looks no larger than a foot plank. Now we turn sharp around to our right, where the towering masses of rock have been cut down, affording a road-bed, where a few years ago the savage could not make a foot trail. Far above us they rear their black crests, towering away, as it were, to the clouds, their long shadows falling far across the lovely little vaPey now ly. ing on our left, and a thousand feet below us still. We have lost sight of the river, and are following the mountain side, look- ing for a place to cross this valley and ROUNDING CAPE HORN 160 PACIFIC CQAST GUIDE. 1 LOOKING UP AT CAPE HORN — ^S©e. BCXt page. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 161 reach the road-bed on the opposite side, which we can see ruLS parallel with us. Soon it is found, and turning to our left, we cross the valley — Rice's Ravine — on a trestle bridge 113 feet high and 878 feet long, under which can be seen the track of the narrow gauge railroad, from Colfax to Nevada. Gradually the height grows less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 feet, enough to admit of an embankment being raised to meet it. On, over the em- bankment, which curves around to the left, and now we are on the solid hill-side, and running along opposite the road by which we passed up the valley. We now have our last and best look at the bold bluff. The best view of this noted place is ob- ta ned when going east, or from the river below. Viewed from the river, the pass- ing train looks like some huge monster winding around the bluff, bold point, puffing and blowing with its herculean labors, or screaming angry notes of de- fiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at the obstacles overcome (see page 160j When the road was in course or con- struction, the groups of Chinese laborers on the bluffs looked almost like swarms of ants, when viewed from the river. Years ago, the cunning savage could find only a very roundabout trail by which to ascecd the point, where now the genius and energy of the pale-face has laid a broad and safe road, whereon the iron steed car- ries its living freight swiftly and safely on their way to and from ocean to ocean. When the road-bed was constructed around this point, the men who broke the first standing ground were held by ropes until firm foot-holds could be excavated in the rocky side^ of the precipitous bluffs. Colfax— is 4.5 miles from C. H. Mills. two miles west of the high bridge, trains until recently stopped for meals, they now stop at Sacramento. The company have a large depot here, this being the distributing point for freight bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a large scope of mining country. The town is named in honor of Schuyler Colfax, one of the warmest friends and earliest supporters of the road. Colfax is a substantial railroad town. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, is well watered, and has an air of general thrift about it, which marks all the permanent towns along the road. The school and church accommodations are ample; the climate is invigorating and healthy, and the inhabitants a thrifty, driving, enter- prising people; the greater number, na- tives of the State of Illinois, who emi- grated to this country in early days — 1849—50. Illinois Town — is a half-mile west, once a noted freighting point for the sur- rounding mines, now the only business is raising fruit, apples, peaches and pears. Iowa Hill — is a mining town, 13 miles south of Colfax. A good toUroad crosses the American River on the bridge which we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and follows up the mountain to the town, which contains about 250 inhabitants. Formerly stages ran daily to Iowa Hill and the mining camps to the southward, but for some reason, they now run only semi-occasionally. Private conveyance can always be secured at Colfax at reasonable charge. As our trip is for pleasure, and to see all that is worth seeing, we will need to take a trip to the old mining towns of Grass Valley and Nevada. Ifevada County Xarroir Oange Railroad. General OfQces are at Grass Valley. J. C. Coleman President John F. Kidder General Sioperintendent. Geo. FiiETCHEB Secretary. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge; commenced in January, 1875, and com- pleted May 32, 1876: length, 33)^ miles. This is a very crooked road, has 15 trestle bridges, aggregating 5,176 feet, two trusa bridges, each 165 feet long, and 97 and 85 feet high, respectively; and two tunnels, aggregating 800 feet. As for the scenery- well, it is immense — the rapid and aston- ishing changes remind one of the kaleid- oscope, and its wondrous changes. Here are to be seen every variety of mountain scenery, as though a choice morsel of each of the grand beauties of nature had slipped from the hand of the great Architect while distributing them, giving such a variety of magnificent views as are seldom, if ever,, found in the same distance traveled. On the route we shall pass through fearful chasms, and tortuous canyons ; under and over lofty bridges, through forests, beside green fields and tower- ing mountains ; tall pines and diminu- tive manzanitas ; huge furnaces, and thundering quartz mills ; long flumes. 162 crofutt's new overland tourist and beautiful cascades; large rivers, and tiny sparkling creeks ; dark and gloomy gorges, and fruit-laden orchards; old placer diggings, new diggings, and immense quartz mines. But come along, and take a look. The train stands j ust on the south side of the depot at Colfax, and leaves on the arrival of the overland train. Passing along to the eastward, we gradu- ally descend the canyon with the track of the C. P. road away above us on the left, and again to the right, where it curves around Cape Horn, a beautiful view of which is obtained. Following on up, we pass under the high bridge of the Central, one and a-half miles from Uolfax, and reach the Divide, where the waters run to the north, to Bear River — which we soon reach and cross on a bridge 750 feet long, and 97 feet high ; amid towering pine and spruce trees and the most romantic scen- ery' — then, 4.5 miles from Colfax, we come to the side-track station of You Bet— the town of which is four miles to the east— heretofore described. We now come to the Greenhorn. Follow- ing it up through a 350-foot tunnel, we cross that creek on a trestle and bridge 700 feet long; on, up and over another 450 feet trestle, along the side of the mountain, overlooking the Greenhorn, around the great " S " curve, on a grade of 105 feet to the mile ; through heavy rock cuts, almost doubling back on our route. Storms — another side-track, by a great saw-mill, is four miles further, but the trains stop only on signal. The moun- tains on the route up to this station are covered with pines, spruce and oaks. The chasms are fearfully grand in places on the left. Buena Vista — another side-track, in the Noonday Valley, is four miles from Storms, from whence, continuing on up two miles, we reach Kress Summit— with an altitude of 2,851 feet. From the summit the descent is rapid, 151 feet to the mile; the moun- tains are here covered with small pines and manzanitas, the big timber that once covered them having long since been cut off, and used to a great extent in the mines at Grass Valley. On the road down, we pass many evidences of placer mining, and, doubtless, will see some Chinamen work, ing over the old placers near Union Hill. On the left are several old mills, and just l)efore reaching Grass Valley, away to the right, across a low place in the ridge, can ( be seen two great Quartz Mills — the Idah< and Eureka. Those mills, although no on our right, will be on our left after ^ pass the next station. The distance acp from track to track is 1,200 feet ; around is three miles. Grass Valley — This is an old and stiL a thriving mining town of full 7,500 in- habitants. It is situated 17 miles from Colfax, 35 miles east of Marysville, and five and a-half miles west of Nevada; on the sides of the hills, along the ravines, with comfortable little residences scattered about the nooks and gulches promiscu- ously. It contains some good business blocks, and some fine private residences. The private dwellings, generally, are en- clos«3d in fine orchards and gardens, which give them an air of comfort and home-like beauty. The town derives its prominence from the quartz mines in and around it. No town in the State has produced an equal amount of gold from quartz, and none has added more real wealth to the State at large. In September, 1850, a miner picked up a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold Hill. From this, prospecting commenced, , and soon several valuable mines were \ opened. In 1851, the first quartz mill was j erected in Boston Ravine, now one of the most populous portions of the town. Grass Valley now contains 19 quartz mills, agregating 305 stamps, besides three large de-sulphurising works. The city is illuminated with gas, has two good hotels — the Exchange and the Wisconsin, one daily newspaper, the Grass Valley Union, and the Foothill Tidings, a weekly. Of the quartz mills, one is worthy of special note — the Idaho. Up to January, 1877, this mill had never failed to pay a divi- dend for 100 months in succession, varying from $5 to $25 per share. There are 3,100 shares of a par value of $100; and these shares have sold as high as $750 each. The total receipts for nine years were $4,589,- 255; dividends paid, $2,270,750. Stages leave Grass Valley for Marys- ville, west 35 miles. Leaving the depot, which is on the south side and overlooking the town, we turn east, leaving the Idaho mill and the old Eureka mill, (now aban- doned), on our left, and follow up through a section of country where are long flumes, and many signs of placer mining, as well as old washed out diggings. We pass some orchards of fruit, a little meadow- land, cross Wolff Creek, see the Chinamen WOOD-HAULING IN Nl ' VDA. (See Annex No. 39,) ai.) crofutt's new overland tourist 163 digging overtlie old claims, note the young {)ines, and the long "V" flume which brings umber from the moimtains to the east- ward twelve miles, and climb up to the Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long ; elevation 2,774 feet; and then descend, passing old mills and new mills, a portion of the city of Nevada, away across on the oppo- site side of the mountain, peacefully re- posing — probably all unconscious of our near approach. On the descent to the city, we pass the New England mill on the left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right ; then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold Run Creek, where considerable placer mining is still being done, and after a run of five and a half miles from Grass Valley, arrive at Nevada — ^This city is the county seat of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, a rapid stream w ith nigged canyon walls, and contains a population of about 4,800. There are here seven stamp mills, agrega- ting 110 stamps, tw^o de-sulphurizing works, and, when sufficient water can be had for the purpose, an extensive business is carried on in hydraulic mining. The place is rather irregularly laid out, owing to the formation of the land and the creek which runs through a portion of the the town. There are some good business blocks, good county buildings, several hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; one daily newspaper, the Trcmaonpt; and one weekly, the Gazette. There are some very nice private residences, surrounded with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- bery, which contrast strikingly with the bare, brown, or red old hillsides. The first mining in Nevada was placer, creek and gulch-washing. The mines were very rich, and lasted several years. During this time the famous hill " dig- §ings," a part of the " old river bed," were iscovered and opened. They, too, proved a source of great wealth, though many miners became "dead broke" before the right system — hydraulic mining with long flumes — was inaugurated. These mines proved very extensive and lasting, and yet form one of the chief sources of the city's wealth. Of late years the attention of the people has been directed to cement and quartz mining, and several very valuable quartz veins have been opened, and fine mills erected on them. The quartz interest is now a decided feature in the business of the city. Stages leave Nevada daily for North San 11 Juan, 14 miles ; Comptonville, 23 miles; Forest City, 45 miles, and Downieville, 50 miles. North San Juan — is a lively mining town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in hydraulic or other min. ing. Theyieldof the Milton Company's mill for 1877, was $233,000; the Manzanita mine, $155,713, for the same year. Or- chards and vineyards are numerous, also some fine private residences. Comptonville — is another small min- ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of whom are dependent on placer mining, and they have a portion of the " old chan- nel" or hill mines in the immediate vicinity. Forest City^Is a place of about 400 inhabitants, also a mining town, working "drift diggings." Downieville — the largest town in Sierra county, is situated on Yuba Kiver, with a population of about 1,000. Bloompield — is twelve miles from Ne- vada, sometimes called *'Humbug," but the yield of the North Bloomfield Co^'s mine for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a humbug. With this hasty rfance at a country where the material for a big book lays around loose, we return to the Overland road, and again to the westward. Leaving Colfax, we follow down Auburn Ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding in and out among the hills, which are here and there covered with small oaks and an occasional large oak and pine, together with the Manzanita, a peculiar shrub, resembling the thorn of the Eastern States, which sheds its bark instead of its leaves. (See page 164.) N, E, Mills— is the first station after Colfax, 6.6 miles distant, but trains stop onlv on signal. The country is very rough and. broken, and 3.31 miles more brings our train to Apple&;ate — another side-track near some lime Kilns. Continuing along with numerous cuts, fills, bridges and one tun- nel near the next station, 700 feet long, for 2.97 miles, we arrive at Clipper Gap— an unimportant sta- tion. Again onward, vfe leave the ravine and keep along the foot hills, to hold the grade — passing through many an old washed placer mine, in which, only a few short years ago, could be seen thousands of men digging and washing, washing and digging, from morning till night, seeking 164 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. what is said to be " the root of all evil " — GOLi>— and a huge root it is\ they all point to it; we are hunting it; have hunted it for forty years ; struck the trail several time", but it soon got cold ; and it has been diflS. cult for some time to find a " color." Anbarn — The county seat of Placer county — is 7.71 miles west of Clipper Gap, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Gar- dens, vineyards, and orchards abound, and everything betokens quiet, home-comforts and ease. It has excellent schools and fine churches, and is one of the neatest looking towns in the county. The public buildings, court-house etc., are good, and the grounds well kept The greater portion of the dwellings stand a little distance from the road. The American, Orleans, and Railroad House, are the principal hotels. The Placer Herald and the Argus, both w^eekly newspapers, are published here Stages run daily from Auburn to Pilot Hill, eleven miles ; Greenwood, 14 miles ; Georgetown, 20 miles ; Coloma, 22 miles ; Forest Hill, 23 miles; Michigan Bluffs, 30 miles ; Placerville, 30 miles. We are now in the foot-hills : After leaving Auburn, we pass through Bloomer Cut, (see illustra- tion, p. 168). then near the next station we pass over the New Castle Gap Bridge, which, before it was filled up with earth, was 528 feet long and 60 feet high. All trestle bridges and trestle works on both the Union and Central Pacific roads, have all been filled in with rock, earth or iron, within the last five years. New Castle— is a small place of about 200 inhabitants, about4.89 miles from Auburn. We pass on through little valleys. BiTo. 8 Annex. The lladrone Trro.— This peculiar tree can be seen in many parts of Califor- nia, particularly on excursions, Nos. 4 and 5. It sheds its hark in the fall of the year, much the same as other trees their leaves. The tree, after shedding its hark, has a bright salmon color, then ► turns gradually darker, until, at the shedding time the folio-wing year, the bark is quite dark. The Manzanita, ■which means in Spanish " lit- tle apple,"' a small shrub, also sheds its bark. It is found along the foot-hill ranges of California. The root is very tough, fine grained and polishes very beautifully. Many fine boxes, and -handles for canes, umbjellas and parasols are made from the root of the Manzanita. In Utah a man is rated according to the num- ber of -wives he has, thus ; A man -with t-wo -wives is a "2-ply" Mormon ; one -with three, a "3-ply." Each -wife ad ds a "ply." Virtue and honor are very nice for Sunday -wear, but too rare for every day use. and among low hills, with evidences of past and a little present mining. Off to the right are the old-time mining camps of Ophir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, and several others, where yet considerable placer mining is indulged in by the old settlers who are good for nothing else. There are several stone quarries near the station, where a very good article of granite is procured. Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch the first glimpse of the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, from the windows on the right-hand side of the cars. There has been several points above, where the val- ley could be seen for a moment, but very indistinctly. Passing on by several valu- able stone quarries, for 6.06 miles, we come ffo Pino — ^We are rapidly descending, but among the low hills, covered with chap- arral, manzanita and grease-wood, the road winds onward for 3.04 miles further, passing several valuable quarries, to the right and left, when we arrive at Rocklin — Here the company have a machine shop and round-house of 28-stalls, built in the most substantial manner, of granite obtained near by. The celebrated llocklin Granite Quarries are close to the station, on the left-hand side of the road. The granite obtained here is of excellent quality, and does not stain on exposure to the weather. The stone for the State Cap- itol and for many of the best buildings in San Francisco was quarried here. Leaving Rocklin and the foot-hills — the country now opening out into the plains, or the valley bordering the American River — ^we have no more hills to encounter; yet the country is somewhat uneven, and alter winding around, on a regular grade, for 3.91 miles further, we reach the Junction — Roseville Junction — This place is 18.24 miles from Sacramento. Here are several stores, a hotel, and one of the best places on the coast to establish a flouring mill. Using the wheat that is raised near, and finding a ready market in the mines to the east, would have a decided advantage in point of location and freights over any other mill on the coast At this junction branches off the Oregon division of the Central Pacific, north for Marysville and Oregon. The road is completed to Redding, 169 miles, and passengers can change cars here if they choose, or go on to Sacramento, as the trains for the Ore- gon division are made up at that city, and CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 1G5 start on the arrival of the morning train from San Francisco, about '6 p, m. We shall take a run over this division, starting from Sacramento. (See page 166) See also map on page 120, and description of depot buildings, page 173. Antelope— is 3.9 miles west. 'The country is more level, and dotted here and there with varieties of oaks. Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on, and 6.42 miles further come to Arcade — a mere side-track. Rolling down 4.56 miles from Arcade, the train slowly crosses a long stretch of elevated road, and then on to the Ameri- can River Bridge, 3.36 miles east of Sacra- mento—which spans the main stream of the American River — and pass along by the orchards and gardens which fringe the suburbs of the capitol of California, the dome of which can be seen on the left, also the State Agricultural Fair Grounds. The long line of machine shoi)s belonging to the Railroad Company, on the left, are passed, and then we come to the Sacra- mento River, on the right, with its crowded wharves, and stop at the city of SacramCD to— Until the spring of 1870, this was the western terminus of the Grand Trans-Continental railroad. But upon the completion of the Western Pa- cific, from Sacramento to San Francisco, the two roads were consolidated under the name of the Central Pacific railroad of California, making one unbroken line from San Francisco to Ogden, ; 833 miles long. The distance from Sacramento to Omaha Is 1,776.18 miles; Stockton, 50 miles; San Francisco via Livermore, 138 miles ; via Benicie 89 miles ; Vallejo, 60 miles ; Marysville, 52 miles. The city is situated on the east bank of the Sacramento River, south of the Ameri- can, which unites with the Sacramento at this point. It it mostly built of brick ; the streets are broad, well- paved, and bordered with shade trees throughout a large por- tion of the city. It contains numerous elegant public and private buildings, in- cluding the State Capitol and county build- ings. Population, 23,000. Churches, of all denominations, are numerous, as well as public and private schools. There are two orphan asylums ; one Catholic, by the Sis- ters of St. Joseph, and the other Protestant, Secret orders are well represented, and newspapers are also plentiful, chief of which are the Record Union and the Bee, both daily ; the Journal — German — is a tri-weekly ; the Leader, the AgricvZturalist and the Rescue, weeklies. The city is lighted with gas and supplied with water by two huge pumps in a building just north of the depot — with a capacity of 90,000 gallons per hour. Hotels are numerous, but the principal ones are the Eagle, Arcade, Orleans and Western. Free "Buses" convey passen- gers from the depot to any of them, or, they can ride past them all on the street cars. In or near the city are located four flouring mills, six iron works, two potteries, smelting works, distilleries, plow works, planingmills, and many other small factories. The Capital Woolen Mills are located here, and consist of main build- ing, 216 by 60 feet, with extention 40 by 60 ft. ; total number of spindles, 1,440 ; employ about 65 hands, and use 1,000 lbs. of wool daily. The Johnson & Brady Wine Co. work up 400 tons of grapes annually. The Sac- ramento Beet Sugar Factory is near the cit}r — capacity, from 80 to 100 tons per day; main building, 150 by 63 feet. The fac- tory grounds produce about 700 tons of beels annually. The company employ, when making sugar, 200 whites and 300 Chinese. The principal machine shops of the Central Pacific railroad are situated, as we have seen, on the north side of the city, and with the tracks, yards, etc., cover about 20 acres. The buildings firsL erected are of wood, still standing and in use. The new buildings are of brick, comprising a ma- chine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, round-house, and several other buildings. Nearly all the cars used by the company are manufactured here. It is a noted fact that the cars on both C. P. and U. P. R. R., are far superior in size, style and finish to those on the majority of the Eastern roads, and for strength and completeness^ of the arrangements for comfort in riding, they have no superior on any road. The hospital belonging to the Railroad Co., a large, airy and comfortable build- ing, is located near the shops, where their men are taken care of when sick or dis- abled. It is well conducted, a credit to the company, and of incalculable benefit to those unfortunates who are obliged to seek its shelter. As for the mercantile business, let a few "figures talk": During the year 1881 the aggregate sales of all kinds of merchandise and manufactured wares, exclusive of local in- 166 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. t•ronang^ amounted to the sum of $26,000,000. This figure represents the mgjrregate volume of outside trade. The city is laid out in a regular square, the streets running at right angles fronting on the Sacramento River, which here runs nearly north and south. They are num- bered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those running from the river bank, or east and west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, B, C, etc. There is a quiet beauty, peculiar to this city alone, which renders it attractive to the most careless of travelers. Its well-shaded streets; its beautiful gardens, blooming with an almost tropical luxuriance; its vineyards and orchards, all combine to form a city such as one rarely meets with in California, and nowhere else. Sacramento is endeared to Californians — not by reason of her ])resent beauiy and pros- perity, but because she is truly an American city, whose people, by their indomitable energy and perseverance, have raised this monument to our national character, despite the ravages of fire and flood. Not only have they re-built their city, but they have built the ground on which it stands, and to-day the city stands some ten feet above the original site on which Sac- ramento was first established. From the small and unimportant hamlet of a few years ago, it has emerged into a thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the young city to the ground, but it rose — Phoenix like— more beautiful than ever. The floods swept over it, as with a besom of destruction, in the winters of '51 and *52, and the waters were rushing with irresistible force through every street. When they abated, the people went to work and built levees around their city, and fancied themselves secure. Again with the floods, in the winter of '61 and '62, Sacramento was inundated. To guai'd against a recurrence of these evils, the city bed was raised above the highest known tide, and instead of wearing away a levee, the angry waters find a solid mass of earth, on which stands the city, against which their efforts at destruction are futile. To one who has not resided on this coast, it may at first seem strange that a city should have been located in the midst of such dangers. When Sacramento was laid out, both the Sacramento and American rivers had bold banks above the reach of any floods. But when the thousands of miners commenced tearing down the mountains and pouring the debris into the rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the river bed from twelve to eighteen feet above its former level. Consequently, when the spring sun unlocked the vast volume of water confined in the mountain snows, and sent it foaming and seething in its mad power to the plains, the old and half, filled channel could not contain it, and a large body of country was annually in- undated. Levees were tried in vain; the mighty torrent would not be confined; hence the necessity of raising the city above its ravages. This has been ac- complished ; and beyond the present line of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds the unfilled portion of the city, on which is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or band, which no past floods have had power to break. These levees are guarded and kept in repair by the Railropd Company. The State Capitol— For a description see Annex No. 15, page 173. We will now take a run over the Oregon Divisioii. CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. For time of passenger train leaving Sacramento see schedules. T^e trains run over the Overland track of the "Central " to Roseville Junction, pass- ing all stations — except where signaled — until the Junction is reached. Our road branches off to the left just before the station is reached, and stops close on the north side of the building, and we hear — " All aboard for Marysville, Chico and Oregon." We suppose the time is not far distant (in the age of nations) when passengers w ill hear, on ar- riving at this station: "All aboard for Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and Behring Straits; close connections made with the Yankee Tunnel Company, under Behring Straits for all points in Russia, China, Japan, Germany, England, France, and the Holy Land ! " Leaving the Junction, our course is north ; we are whirled along over a fine road-bed, in and out amon^ the foot-hills, with rapid and ever-changmg scenery on either hand, through groves of huge old oaks, with large herds of sheep grazing about them, for six miles to Whitney — a signal station in the midst of sheep ranches— cross Auburn Ravine, and after a run of 4.5 miles, come to Lincoln, which is a village of about crofutt's new overland tourist 167 800 inhabitants. Just above the station, on the right, are located extensive works for making sewer pipes, and pottery; half a mile further, on the same side, is a new coal mine, recently discovered. A little further a turkey ranche, and then, a real old-fashioned Vermont farm, only there is a great uniformity in the size of the rocks. EwiNG — comes next, a signal station, 4.1 miles from Lincoln, where we cross CrOon CreeK and find the land improving, for 3.5 miles, when we come to Sheridan — ^This place contains about 20 buildings, situated on an open plain "Where most of the land is used for grazing purposes. We now cross Bear River, which has broad bottoms, much of which is covered with sand, and the washings from the mines above towards Grass Val- ley. Here we get a good view of the "Buttes," directly ahead. After passing over 2.3 miles from Sheridan, we are at Wheatiland— a place very properly named, as it is situated in one great wheat- field, with several flne^buildings, a flouring mill, a weekly newspaper — the Recorder — and an enterprising population of farmers, 600 or more. Continuing along, through a fine country 2.6 miles, we come to Reed's — a signal station of a half-dozen buildings. On we go, through broad, rich bottom-land, many miles in width, 4.7 miles to Yuba — another signal station on the south bank of the Yuba River. Here we cross a dyke, which extends up and down the river, as far as you can see, thrown up to keep the river from overflowing its banks, to the damage of the surrounding country. The river bottom there is a mile in width, covered with oaks and willows, across which the road is built on high tres- tles. Crossing over, we find another high dyke on the opposite side, which we cross, and 1.9 miles from Yuba signal station, stop at the old city of Marysville — one of the prettiest towns in the State. It is the county seat of Yuba county, situated on the north bank of the Yuba River, with a population of about 5,000. It was first settled in 1849, and named in honor of the only white woman within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. The town is built of brick, the streets wide, and laid out at right angles. The chief beauty of Marysville consists in the shrub- bery which ornaments the town, though there are many elegant public buildings and private residences in the city. Scarcely will vou find a dwelling that is not sur- rounded with a forest of fruit trees, includ. ing orange and shade trees, or embowered in a mass of vines and flx)wers. The city is on a level plain, twelve miles from the foot-hills, and protected from the spring floods of the Yuba by a dyke or high em- bankment. The streets are broad and regularly laid out. The city supports one daily paper — the Appeal — has several good hotels, chief of which are the United States and Western. There are two seminaries, four public, and numerous private schools ; also five churches, nearly all denominations being represented. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with water from an artesian well 300 feet deep, from which it is elevated by steam power to a reservoir, and thence conducted all over the city. It has quite a number of manufactories, in- cluding an iron foundry and machine shop, where are maufactured all kinds of mill machiiiery, stationary engines, &c. Agriculture is now the principal source of wealth of the country. Fruit culture and stock-raisiog are very remunerative. Saw-mills are numerous in the county, as immense quantities of lumber are ship- ped from Marysville. The greater portion of the mining is now done by the hydraulic process. There are 15 quartz mills in the county, and 36 companies owning canals or mining ditches, one of which cost $500,000, and with its branches is over 150 miles long. There are regular stage lines from Marys- ville to Colusa, 29 miles west ; Downieville, 67 miles northeast; North San Juan, 38 miles ; Grass Valley, 35 miles : La Porte, 65 miles from Marysville. The California IVortliern B. B. This road brancnesoli for Oro-^ille, north, and runs to the eastward of Feather River, through Honcut, a small place, and arrives at Oroville,after arun of 26 miles. This town has a population of about 1 ,500, and is the county seat of Butte county. It is an old mining town, principally placer mines, which were at one time very rich, and in some places now are worked to advantage. The Chinese are very thick in the old pla- cer region, and work these old diggings over and over again. The town is em- bowered in fruit and shade trees, beautiful gardens and orchards. This county possesses some of the finest 168 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. BLOOMER CUT. K5 fe«t deep and SOO leet long. See page Itil agricultural land in the State. All kinds of grain and produce are raised in abund- ance. The vineyards are numerous, pro- ducing large quantities of wine and brandy annually. Rasing are produced in large quantities, and an immense amount of pea- nuts are gathered for market every year. Stock-raising is also an important feature. Wool is a staple export of the county. Schools and churches are in a flourishing condition — a sure evidence of a people's prosperity. Stages leave Oroville regularly for La Porte, 52 miles; Susanville, 105 miles; as well as to most of the adjoining towns. Returning to Marysville, we will now take a run to Yuba City — situated about one mile west of Marysville, containing a population of about 1,000, and located on the eastern bank of the Feather River, just above its junction with the Yuba. It is the county geat of Sutter county — first settled in 1849. The county was named after General Sut- ter, the old pioneer, at whose mill race at Coloma, El Dorado county, on the south fork of the American River, January 19th, 1848, the first gold was discovered in Cali- fornia. The county has a populati(>n of about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. The soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of wheat,^oats, and barley ; there are also some very fine vineyards, producing a superior quality of fruit, from which many thousand gallons of wine and brandy are made annually. The city has one newspaper — the Sutter Banner — and several hotels. It is at the head of steamboat navigation, and is con- nected with San Francisco and the world by the road over which we came — the Oregon division of the C. P., via. Marys- ville, between which cities a hack runs regularly. The " BuTTE« " — called the "Marysville Buttes," are a noted land-mark to the westward, about ten miles. They consist of a series of peaks that rise from the CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 169 crest of an isolated mountain range, which stands bold and clear among the plains, 1,000 feet in height. From appearances, one would be led to suppose that this ridge crossed the valley at one time, when this was an inland sea; and when the waters escaped from the lower valley, those confined above cut a portion of the ridge down level with the plain, and escaping, left a beautiful valley above. From the summits of their bald peaks a fine view can be had of a great portion of the Sacramento Valley, including Mount Shasta, away to the northward, 220 miles distant, in latitude 41 deg. 30 min., an isolated and lofty volcanic mountain, full 14,440 feet high. It is covered with perpetual snow, and is the head and source of the Sacramento River. (See Annex No. 43, page 214. To the northwest, in the Coast Range, can be distinctly seen Mts. Linn, St. John and Ripley. On the south, Mt. Diablo, in the Contra Costa range, while on the east, from north to south, is the long range of the Sierra Nevadas, as far as the eye can reach. Returning to MarysviUe, we again start on our journey. One mile nortli of the city we cross the track of the Oroville rail- road, pass several cemeteries on the right, also a race track ; then, bear away to the left — northwest — and cross the Feather River on a long trestle bridge. Along this river, live oaks and sycamore trees abound by the million. LoMO — a flag station, comes first from MarysviUe, 6.8 miles. Here are wheat lands which continue, with an occasional clump of trees, 3.9 miles, to Live Oak — another side track, in the centre of some thousands of acres of young live oaks, and manzanita shrubs. Passing along with the broad valley of the Sacra- mento on the left, which stretches away as far as the eye can reach, and the Feather River Valley on the right, beyond which are the lofty Sierras, we reach Gridley — which is 6.5 miles further north. This station has several hotels and stores, a dozen residences, and a large grain warehouse, and one flouring mill, as, be it remembered, we are now in one of the great wheat sections of the State. The st'ation was named for a Mr. Gridley — maybe it's "Old Bob Gridley" — who knows? — who owns somewhere about 35,000 acres of land adjoining the station, much of which he has worked by farmers on a division of crops. Live oaks, big ores are numerous all the way for 3.4 miles to Biggs — This is a lively town of about 1,200 population, in the midst of fine wheat lands, with extensive warehouses for stor- ing and handling wheat in nearly all seasons. This cereal is a large and sure crop. Biggs has a weekly paper— the Register — several hotels, chief of which is the Planters, and a stage line to Oroville, twelve miles east; fare, $1.00. The place was named for a Mr. Biggs, who, like the Mr. Gridley, is troubled with about 30,000 acres of this wheat land, much of which yields, when properly farmed, 50 bushels to the acre. Leaving Biggs we cross the big canal of the Cherokee Com- pany, which is 18 miles long and 400 feet wide ; the water is used for hydraulic mining, and then for irrigating purposes. After a run of ten miles, all the way through wheat fields, we reach Nelson — composed of about a dozen buildings, surrounded with wheat, wheat, all wheat. These fields extend far away in every direction. Passing along, we cross Butte Creek, and 6.6 miles from Nelson, come to Dunham — Here is about a dozen build- ings, in the midst of a broad plain studded with occasional oaks. A flouring mill and large warehouses are near the station. Continuing on 6.1 miles, and we stop at the beautiml town of Chico — It is 48 miles from Maiysville, 25 miles northwest from Oroville, and five miles east of the Sacramento River, situated in the Chico Valley, Butte county, in the midst of as rich a farming section as the State affords ; population 5,000. The city is lighted with gas, has ample water-works situated near the depot, and has several banks and hotels, chief of which are the Chico House and the Union ; one daily pa- per, the Record, and one weekly, the En- terprise. To the eastward looms up the Sierra Nevada Mountains, covered with a dense forest of timber, in which are many sawmills, the lumber from which is floated down to within three miles of the city, in a " V " flume, 35 miles in length. The streets are lined with shade trees, groves of oaks, and orchards and gardens are on every hand. Near the town, General Bid- well, the old pioneer, has an extensive ranche — or farm, as it would be called in the Eastern States — which is in a very high state of cultivation, producing abun- dantly all kinds of fruits and plants of the temperate and semi-tropical climes. 170 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Stage routes from Chico are numerous. Six-horse coaches, in summer, leave for Oroville, 25 miles; Butteville, Plumas Co., 63 miles; fare, 10 cents per mile. Stages leave for Diamondville, eleven miles; Butte Creek, 13 miles; and Hell- town, 14 miles ; also, for Dayton, six miles; Jacinto, 14 miles; Germantown, 13 miles; Willows, 56 miles; Colusa, 40 miles; Wil- liams, 49 miles; Allen, 55 miles; and Bart- lette Springs, 58 miles. Stages run Mon- days, Wednesdays and Fridays, to St. John, ten miles; Orland, 23 miles; Olimpo, 80 miles; Coast Eange, 35 miles; Newville, 40 miles. The average fare to all these places is ten cents per mile. Leaving Chico, our course is more west- ward for seven miles to NoBD — a small station about three miles east of the Sacramento River. Next comes a side-track, 2.3 miles further, called Anita — and 2.4 miles further Cana — ^This place has a population of about 100, most of whom are farmers, as wheat fields are still the rule. On, 2.8 miles further comes Soto— near Deer Creek, and 4.3 miles from Vina — a small station near the Sacra- mento River, in the center of a very fertile region and a great point for gram ship- ments. Continuing on 7.5 miles further, crossing several small creeks, passing some oaks and willows along the creeks, we come to Sesma — a side-track, on the east bank of Sacramento River, which we cross, and stop at Tehama— on the west bank of Sacra- mento River, where boats often land, being a thriving town of about 700 population. The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama has a live daily newspaper. The place was, in earl^ days, known as " Hall Cross- ing." Agriculture is the principal feature of the place, although the lumber business is an important item. A " V " flume brings the lumber down from the mills in theSierras on the northeast, a distance of forty miles, with a capacity of 40,000 feet per dav. The country is very fertile. Live oaks are numerous. Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 10,578 feet above sea level, which would be about 10,000 feet higher than Tehama. Continuing along 12.1 miles further, cross- ing several small creeks, we come to Red Bluffs — the county seat of Tehama county, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, with a population of about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of rich agricultural and grazing land, wiUi many thriving vineyards and several hotel% chief of which are the Tremont and Red Bluffs Hotel ; also two weekly newspapers, the Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum. ber is an important industry, and the man- ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried on to a great extent Mt. Shasta, to the north, is a prominent object, rising up out of the valley. Continuing along, crossing several little creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 10.3 miles, we come to Hooker — a signal station, 4.9 miles from Buckeye — another signal station, la. cated 1.8 miles from Cottonwood — ^This is a small village In Shasta county, of about 300 population, situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five miles west of the Sacramento River. Turning more to the northeast, a short run of 7.6 miles brings us to Anderson's — a village of about 200 pop- ulation, 6.3 miles from Cle.^\jr Creek — a small station on a creek of that name, which comes in from the west, and after 4.8 miles furttier, we come to the end of the road at Redding — ^This place was named for the land commissioner of the railroad com- pany. This is the terminus of the road, having a population of about 500. Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- cisco, 275 miles south of Roseburg , Oregon, and 475 miles from Portland. Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- ger, mails and express, for iioseburg, and all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. At Roseburg connections are made with the Oregon & California railroad, for Port- land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburg from Redding, $41.25. This region is fertile in subject matter for our book, but we arelimited as to space, and with this hasty glance at the most im- portant features of the country, now re- turn to the city of Sacramento, and again start out on another route. Up the Sacramento River* Stepping on board a light draft steam- boat, at the wharf in Sacramento, we are off for a trip by water. CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 171 About the first thing to attract the atten- tion of the traveler after leaving the city, will be the "Tun.ES," which is the native name given to the rushes which cover the low lands and bavs of California. They are of the bulrush family, probably the father of all rushes. They grow from six to ten feet high, and so thick on the ground that it is extremely difficult to pass among them. The lands on which they grow are subject to annual overflows. During the prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of these lands are under water, presenting the appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. In the fall and' early winter, when the tuiles are dry, they are often set on fire, forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- pecially during the night. When once the fire attains headway, nothing can quench its fury until the tuiles are swept away to the bank of some water-course, which bars its further progress. The soil composing the land is adobe, of a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it has been reclaimed, it produces grain and vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. It is claimed by many, that, with proper appliances, these lands could be converted into magnificent rice fields ; the advocates of this measure asserting that they possess every requisite of soil, clime, and adapta- bility to irrigation. The State has pro- vided for a system of levees, by which a large amount of land, heretofore known as tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, and is now counted the most valuable in the State. The country, after leaving Sacramento, is level for a vast distance on either hand ; the "tuiles " are disappearing, and, before we reach Knight's Landing, the left-hand shore is more bold^ and the wheat-fields and gardens have taken the place of "tuiles" along the river bank. We have already been to Marysville by railroad, now let us go via Feather River, a beautiful stream, its clear waters contrast- ing advantageously with the muddy waters of the river'we have left. We pass through a fine country with wheat farms on the higher lands, and reach Nicholas, a dull, quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- ted at the junction of Bear River with the Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we pass HOCK FARM, the home of the venerable pioneer of California, General Sutter. It 18 a lovely place — the old farm-house and iron fort standing on the bank of the stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank, while behind them can be seen the fine orchards and vineyards planted by the- General over 50 years ago. General Sutter settled in California under a grant from the Russian Government, which con- veyed to him lar^e tracts of land around Sacramento City, including the city site ; also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived the old pioneer of most of his property, leaving him penniless, and a pensioner on the State. Passing on by the junction of the Yuba and Feather rivers, we soon reach Yuba near Marysville, 65 miles from Sacramento, by water. (See description on page 167) Returning to the Sacramento, the right- hand baSk of the river appears low and swampy, covered with " tuiles " for a great distance inland. Passing on, we soon ai- rive at Knight's Landing — a small place — 46 miles from Sacramento. Population about 200. It is quite a shipping point for Yolo county, and is on the line of the California Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- tended to Marysville, crossing the river at this point, but the floods washed away the road-bed on the east side of the river. The road passed into the hands of the " Central'^ Company, who had a road to Marysville via the Rosevllle Junction. So it never was repaired, but the bridge turned to allow a free passage of the river boats, and has been so, for the last four years, and probably will so remain until it rots down. For a long distance above Knight's Landing, the low marshy plains continue on our riglit, the higher land covered with: wheat on our left, with no towns of anyr importance to note until we arrive at Colusa — This is a point of considerable- trade — 125 miles from Sacramento. It is- the county seat of Colusa county, situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River,, and contains about 1 , 500 inhabitants. The- Colusa JSun is published here. The town was laid out in 1850, by Col- onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa. Grant" — containing two Spanish leagues. It is now the center of a very large farming: and grazing country. Schools and churche* are well represented. Stages run dail}^ be- tween Colusa and Marysville — 29 miles; also to Williams, nine miles west. Passing on up the river, the country seems to gradually change to a grazing. 172 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. instead of a grain countiy, more especially on the west. About 200 miles further and we reach the Landing of Chico — but we have already described the town on page 186, so we will pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only for grazing when the floods have subsided ; yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we arrive at Eed Blufi's— 270 miles from Sac- ramento, at the head of navigation. See description of the town on page 170. We will now return to the city of Sac- ramento, and there take another route. ]>oir]i the Hacramento River. Stepping on board of a large passenger and freight boat, we start down the river towards San Francisco. The plains stretch away on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- tains beyond. On the left — away in the dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds. Winding around cui-ves, where the stern of the boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, and tuile swamps, until we pass Fheeport, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. Floating along between the low banks, covered with willow and shrub, we pass Mississippi Bend— 24 miles from Sac- ramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself. To the left is the little town of Rich- land, containing a half-dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, a,nd we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and then the Hog's Back — a long sand-bar, which stretches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing dam has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, which throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth to the bar. Next comes Cache Creek Slough, on which large quantities of grain are shipped to San Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo ^nd Solano counties. Now we are passing «,long by the Rio Vista hills, which come close to the water's edge on the right-hand shore. These hills are the first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long, low ridge, broken into hillocks on its crest. These hills are ex- cellent wheat land, yielding an abundant harvest. The land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of Rio Vista is situated on the slope of the foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- habitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the river bank, but the flood of '62 washed it away, car- ?ring from 40 to 60 houses down the river, he people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plying up and down the river, running far out over the sub- merged plains, picking up the "stragglers," who were suiTounded by the waters. Some were found on the house-roofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwell- ings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which aflbrded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be re- membered by those who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento. We next pass Colmngsville, a long wharf on the right-hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close by. It is .a point of shipment of considerable freight, for the country, and grain for the city. A little below this point, the San Joaquin River unites with the Sacrafhento, entering from the left, forming Suisun Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). Antioch— just across the bay — is in Contra Costa county; population, 500. Three miles south, by railroad, are the Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield large quantities of coal. There are several manufactories of pot- tery in the town — the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledger ^ a weekly paper, is published here. Atten- tion has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and many thousand mulberry trees have been planted. Passing on down the bay, we enter the Straits of Carquinez, when a long, low wharf on the right attracts our attention. It is fronting the old town of Benicie, of which more hereafter. Passing on down tha strai'w we have a fine view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings us to San Francisco. But we must return to Sacramento and PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 173 Take the old Overland Roate, Via Stockton and Livermore Pass. Leaving Sacramento, the route is along the east bank of the Sacramento Biver, through well-cultivated gar- dens, orchards and vineyards 5.7 miles to Brighton.— Here we learn that the cars of the Sacramento Valley rail- road, managed by the Central Pacific Company, run down on the same track as the "Central" to this station, where they branch olf. Let us step into them, and see where they go. Patter- son's is five miles; Salsbury's six miles ; Alder Creek, three miles, and three more to FoLsoM— twenty-five miles east from Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American River; population about 2,000. Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are located here, including the Natoma, which is celebrated for its fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town placer mining is the principal business ; to the south and west, farming and grazing. There are extensive granite quarries in the vicinity. From the bed of the river, near this point, large quantities of cobble-stones have been obtained, for paving the streets of Sacramento and San Francisco. Folsom is ornamented with fruit and shade trees, and has many fine public and private buildings, with magnifi- cent scenery. Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, via Mormon Island, Salmon Falls and Greenwood Valley, twenty-four miles distant. The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering spirit." Emigrants, on the plains, are called, by the Q^der settlers, "pilgrims. " 'So. 15 Annex. State Capitol of Cali- fornia.— This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sacramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmark. The building occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by 10th and 12th, and by L and N streets . The grounds form three terraces , shghtly elevated above each other, and connected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are interplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest terrace is studded with flowers. Its front is toward 10th stieet, and is 350 feet long. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large wing. A flight of granite steps, 25 feet high by 80 feet in width, leads to a front portico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the cen- ter ; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. Five female figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, science, agriculture and mining. The wings forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the building form, respect- ively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the former being 82x72, and the latter 72x62. In the rear center, a circular projection of 60 feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neigh- boring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice of the same. Above this the body of the main dome is surrounded by an open balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corinthian columns and an equal number of pilasters. Above this balcony the body of the dome is supported by an equal number of ornamental pilasters. From these rises the great metallic dome. From the top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corinthian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of Cali- fornia. The whole interior is one soUd mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, is exceedingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibiUty to receive a high polish. All the first floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respectively, 21 feet 6 inches, 20 feet, and 18 feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. See large illustration. No. 16. No. 58 Annex.— Xew^ Sacramento De- pot.— From page 165.— The Central Company have completed a depot at Sacramento, that is the largest, finest and most commodious on the Pacific Coast. It is constructed of the best ma- terial and in the most substantial manner. It is situated about midway between the bridge over the Sacramento river and the company's shops, fronts north, on ground filled in and specially prepared for that purpose. The main building is 416 feet long, and 70 feet 6 inches wide, two story. The front has four large arches in the center, and eight smaller ones on each side. Three tracks run through the building, and a platform 22 feet wide. In the rear is an annex, 160 feet long, and 35 feet wide, one story, in which is a dining-room, 40x55 feet, 14 feet high, two waiting-rooms, 26x35 feet. On the first floor are ticket, sleeping-car, and telegraph offices, lunch counter and baggage-room, news-room, etc. The second story is occupied by the offices oif the Sacramento Valley Railroad, Supt. of Division of the C. P., Train Dispatchers, Conductors, Rooms . for Storage, Stationery, etc. _ * Sacramento is now a regular eating station. 174 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ii'assing on seven miles to White Kecks, eight to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle Springs, brings us to the end of the rail- road, 49 miles from Sacramento. PiACERViLLB.— is twelve miles flrom Shingle Springs, with which it is connects ed with daily stages. It is the county »eat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet above tide — present population, about 2,000. Who has not heard of Placerville, El Dorado county ? It was in this county, at (yoloma, eight miles northeast of the city, where the First gold discovery — was made Jan- uary, 19th, 1848— by J . W. Marshall, in the mill race of General Sutter. The au nouncement of this discovery caused the mldest gold fever excitement eoer ect/peri- meed not only in America, but in every part of the civilized world. TTie news of these rich discoveries sped with the wings of the wind, and thousands, J^es, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States eft homes, friends, and all they held dear, to make their fortunes in this, the new El Dorado. With many the excitement be- came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, and all manner of sailing vessels were char- tered or purchased for a trip "around the Horn ;" and no sacrifice was thought to be too much to make to procure the necessary outfit for the expedition. Again there were thousands who, choosing the land, boldly struck out toward the setting sun to cross the then almost unknown trackless deserts, and pathless mountains. Horses, mules and cattle were pressed into service, as well as all kinds of conveyances, while many started with hand-carts, propelling them themselves, upon which they packed their tools and provisions for the trip. Again, others started on foot, with only what they could pack on their backs, ^^trusting to luck:' Very few, if any, had a thought of the privations to be endured, or the obsta- cles to be overcome, so anxious were they to arrive at the Land of Qold. Those who came by water, passed in at the Qolden Gate, and up the Sacramento, while those by land came pouring over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natural passes, down, down into this beautiful val- ley, where a city of many thousands sud- denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- tle unpleasantness" the place was first known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was Changed to Placerville, which indicated at that time, the nature of the mftiing done in the vicinity. Of the many thousands who started across the plains and moun- tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and were buried by their companions, while the greater number were "lost" by the hand of the friendly Indian or the Tioiiils Mormon. It has been estimated, and we think cor- rectly, could the bones of these emigrants be collected, and those of their animals, to- gether with their wagons and carts, in one continuous line, between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, since the rush Commenced in 184t8, they would be mort numerous and closer together than the tele- graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- road across the Continent The early mining done about Placerville was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and long Tom; these have long since given place to the quartz mills — there are 32 in the county — and the hydraulic process, by which nearly all the mining is now done. Vine culture and fruit culture are now the most important occupations of the peo- ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- duced is over 300,000 gallons. Placerville contains a goodly number of schools, and churches of almost every de- nomination, including a "Joss House.'* The difi*erent secret orders are well repre- sented, and two newspapers, the Demoorat and the Republican^ make ttieir appearance every week. Placerville is situated in what is known as the foot-hills as the chain of broken land is called, which lies between the Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- ing from Fresno county on the south, through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador,' El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte to Tehama, on the north, comprising nearly one-fourth of the arable land of the State. The soil is altogether diflferentf^om that of the valleys, being generally of a red, gravelly claj^ and sandy loam. In the little valleys which are found among these hills, the soil is generally a black loam — the product of the mountain washings. Experiments, l^owever, have decided the fact that these foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- ties, on these sandy foot-hills are now the finest vineyards in the State, from which are manufactured fine wines and raisins. croputt's nbw otkrulnd tourist 175 Hbn among these hills are aa oozj homes as one could wish to hare, where grain, yegetables and all kinds of frnit are raised in abundance, while thousands of acres are lying raoant awaiting tho emigrant The mulbery tree and the silkworm are cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, and this branch of industry is lately re- ceiyin^ considerable attention. Again we return to the Trans^kti- NKNTAL, which we left at Brighton. Florin— is four miles from Brighton. The many new buildings the well-cultiva- ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, that would seem to say, •* We Tiave oonu here to stay:' The traveler has probably noticed several windmills along the road, before arriving at this station. The California Wikix- iciLL is a great institution in its way. It ■eems to have been brought to a greater ■tate of perfection on this coast than any- where else. From this place we will find their numbers to increase until we get to the •'Windmill City," as Stockton is often called, where they can be seen in great numbers, in every direction. Many times Uie water is pumped into reservoirs built on the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola from which pipes take the water to the different rooms throughout the house and grounds ; the waste water is conducted in- to the gardens and fields for irrigating gnrposes. These mills are numerous In an Francisco and throughout the State. I^rom Florin it is 6.2 miles to £lk €rroTe— Here, too, many recent improvements are noticeable. In a clear day the snow-capped Sierras, on the left Can be plainly seen, and away to the sonth 00 miles distant. Mount Diablo rising clear and grand from out the plains, an unerring pilot to those who wandered across these once trackless plains that now are teeming with life and industry. It is situated m the Contra Costa range of mountains, and istha meridian point in the land surveys of the Btate. Elevation 3,876 feet The view from ttie summit includes the country and towns around San Francisco, San Pablo and Suiaun baya, and the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivera. It is reaclMd by rail or steamboata from San Fnnciaoo, Stockton or Sacramento. The beantffril valley through which th(' road passes is now spreadijie: out before u^ idU wo begdi to realfze tfiat nature Mm done much for this "sunset land." McConnell's— is a small station 8J milea from. Elk Grove. Near are large Helds, where cattle and sheep are fed and fattened for market Before reaching the next station, wt fcioss Cosumnes River, which rises in the tnountains to the northeast The bottom ianda are very wide, and covered with both white and live oaks, and near Uie stream with willows. The water gets very high in the spring-time, and very low in the summer. I Oalt— a station with a few dozen build* Ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and ihutes for loading cattle and sheep— is 7.7 miles from McConnell's. At this station 'we find the Amadore Branch Bailroad« Let us " change cars," and note the re- |iult Leaving the station, our course it ilorth a short distance, and then northeast towards the mountains, over a section of , Country devoted pretty generally to stock- -raising — sheep principally. Cicero— is the first station, 8.8 milea I distant, a small place of about 150 ihhabf- tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we I are at I Carbondalb — Here are extensive coal mines, operated by the lone Coal Co.. who load on an average fifteen cars' per day — 160 tons. At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, large quantities of the best pottery are manufactured, which finds its market over this road. From Carbondale it ia 6.7 miles to loNB— the end of the road, 27.2 milea from Gait This place is in Amadore county, in a section devoted to mining and agriculture. The coal mines located here have yielded about 200 tons per day during the year 1878. A new vein of coal, struck towarda the last of the year 1877, opens up an al> most unlimited deposit Placer mining It carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. The New$, a weekly paper, ia published at lone, which is also a point ftt>m which fourteen mining towna, large and smidl, draw their supplies. Some of these art reached by stage as follows: YoleanOk population. 600; West Point» 800; Jack- son. Ban Andreas, Mokelumna flul, Bat- ter, Amador, Drytown, Plymout]^ and Fiddletown. These placea are from ten to 176 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. fifteen mrffes distant From lone it is fifteen miles southeast to Mokelumna Hill, pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) county seat of Calaveras county. This Is one of the early mining towns of the State. Placer mines were worked as early as 1848, and are worked to some extent at the present time ; but quartz mining and agriculture are the principal occupation of the people. It is a pretty little town ; tiie streets are orna- mented with shade trees on each side, and has some beautiful gardens and private residences, with good school sand churches, several good hotels, and one weekly news- paper — Sie Chronicle— \hQ oldest paper in the State. Population, 1,200. W© will now return to Gait, and start once more south. Acampo — is a small station where trains seldom stop, 5.4 miles from Gait, and 2.9 miles from liOdi— The country along here has been settled up very much in the last four Years; the fields are pretty generally fenced and well cultivated, and some fine vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. Many new buildings attest the thrift of the people. Stages leave this station daily — except Sunday— for Mokelimme Hill, 35 miles east. Castle— is six miles from Lodi. Our train rolls along through fine broad bottom lands, doited here and tliere with white- oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like an old New England apple-ti-ee. Six miles further, just before reaching the next station — on the right, that large building is the State Insane Asylum. The grounds devoted to the use of the •sylum occupy 100 acres. The first build- ing in view is the male department; tlie second, the female. We are now in the •uburbs of t^tockton— the county seat of San Joaquin county. Population, 18,000. Ele- vation, 23 feet The city was named in honor of the old naval commo*. re of that name, who engaged in the conquest of California. It is situated on *^ small bay, (rf the San Joaquin River, •• le head of navigation; navigable for ^ratts of 200 tons ; yet steamboats of light draft ascend the river (San Joaquin) 160 miles farther. (Stockton is situated in the midst of level plainflf celebrated for their great yield of grain. It is the center of an immense grain trade. In early times, the only trade depended upon for the support of the city was derived di ectly from tbo work Ibg or the mines to the eastward". Some of this trade is still retained; but, com- pared with the tremendous grain trade which has sprung into existence within ihe last six years, it sinks to a unit Tho city has many beautiful public and private- buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- lic and many private schools; is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water,, the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per day — the water rising ten feet above the City grade. There are several good hotels ;. the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- cipal ones. The Independent and the Herald are daily papers, published here. The city is embowered in trees and shrub- bery: most of the private residences and gardens of the citizens are certainly very tastefully ornamented with all kinds of vines, shrubbery, and flowers. The soil around Stockton is " adooe," a vegetable mold, black and very slippery, and soft during the rainy season. This extends southward to the Contra Costas, and west about five miles, where the sand commences and extends to the river. Stockton, for several years after the com- pletion of the Overland road, was the starting pointr—in stages— for Yo Semite Valley and all the big trees. But, by the building of the Visalia Division of the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna big tree groves, has taken that route, the distance by stage being much shorter. (See map of route, page 120.) Again,by the building of the Stockton & Visalia, and Stockton & Copperopolis rail- roads, all the travel for the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, goes by that route. (See map.) For a description of the route to Yo-Semite Valley and the Ma- riposa and Tuolumna big trees, see under "Towards Sunrise," page 209. To Calaveras Bio Trees— we will simply note the route. Take S. & C. E. K.— a branch of the Central Pacific— at the same depot, and the route is east, six miles to Charleston, three to Walt- hall, two to Holden and four more to Peters, 15 miles from Stockton. Prom Peters, a line branches off to the south-east. On that branch, it is five miles to Farmington, three to Grigo, five to Clyde, four to Burnett's and two more to Oak Dale, the end of the road, 34.4 miles from Stockton. Eeturning to Peters, it is 7 miles to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. LiVERMORE PASS TUNMEL. — See page 170 Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- lumne Big Trees; distance from Milton, 87 miles. Stages leave Milton regularly for Mur- phys, 80 miles ; Sonora, 36 miles ; Chinese Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of note to the north and east From Milton it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, via Murphys. Big Trees — There has been, np to the present time, ten " Big Tree Groves " dis- covered on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, numbering from 92 to 1,000 trees each, and ranging in height from 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference, at the ground, of from 60 to 95 feet each. The largest ever discovered is called the "Father of the Forest"— now prostrate— and measures 435 feet in length and 110 feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras i^rove. The eievatiou of this grove above tide is 4,735 feet The trees number 92, ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height The most notable are the ** Father of the Forest," as above stated ; the "Mother of the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet in circumference ; " Hermit," 318 feet high, 60 feet in circumference ; ** Pride of the Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum. ference; "Three Graces," 295 feet high, 92 feet in cii^umference; " Husband & Wife," 252 feet high, 60 t«et in circumference; " Burnt Tre^ "—prostrate— 330 feet long, 97 feet in c' ^iference; "The Old Maid,'»^ "Old Bacheic-/ " Siamese Twins," "Mother & Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many others range from 261 to 300 feet in height and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa, grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 fe^'t in cir- cumference, at the ground. 178 I'AtlFIC COAST GUIDE. Hotel aecommodationfl at the different OTOves, and in Yo Semite Valley will be found ample. Returning to Stockton, we once more take the Overland train for San Francisco. Thia is a great country for rapid changes. Where to-day there are only stages, to-morrow there m&j be palace cars ; so that it is almost impossible for us to keep up with the times. When our guide was Jint published, in 1869, not one /oot of all the roads we have come over, from the Missouri to this place, or will go over, or that are, was built or hardly thought of. How fast we live! At the same proportional increase for the next ten years, where will we be ? liathrop — is 8.9 miles south of Stock- ton, at the Junction of the "Visalia Di-j vision" of the Central Pacific railroad. Here the R R. Co. have erected a fine, large hotel, before which trains stop 80 minutes, i to afford passengers an opportunity to takej « meal, for which the moderate charge ofi bO cents is made. (For a description of the country to the south, including Yo Semite! Valley and the big trees of Mariposa and Tuolumna groves, See page 211.) Here passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angeie and intermediate country can ** change cars," if they choose, without going to San Francisco. From Lathrop, it is 8.6 miles to the bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here the cars come to a full stop before crossing, to be 8ur« to guard against accidents—as the bridge has a '* draw " for the accom- modation of the river boats. This company has a rule for all their employes, and a " Golden" one it is, that " In ease ofun- teriainty, always take the safe side^ This rule is xoell observed; few " accidents " take place on the roads operated by this com- pany, for the reason that the road is con- structed of good materials, and in the most mibstantial manner^ with all its equipments of the first class. The officers are thor- oughly practical men, who never discharge an employe, on any consideration, who has proved to be a eompetent man for his posi- tion, simply to mase room for a favorite^ or a wortKUss ** cousin.''* Crossing the bridge, the long range of the Contra Costa Mountains looms up in the distance, directly ahead, and extends a long distance to the right and left, on either hand, as though to effectually stop our progress. We cannot see any place to get through or over them, yet we are sure Sjin Francisco is on the other side. Bsnta— is 1-4 miles from the bridge and is reached after passing over a broad bottom, the soil of which ia s rich, deep sandy loam and very produc- tive. This station consists of a post- office, a half-dozen stores, several large freight warehouses, with a surrounding country, well settled, most of which is under cultivation. Stages leave thii! station on arrival of trains for Grayson* ville, 20 miles ; Mahoney, 35 miles ; and Hill's Ferry, 44 miles. After leaving the station, we have witnessed, on several occasions, by look- ing away to the right, that curious phenomenon, the mirage, which is often seen on the desert (See page 142). At Tracy— three mileswest of Banta we come to the junction of the new San Pablo & Tulare Railroad, a division of the Central, opened in the summer of 1878, and runs via Martinez, along San Pablo Bay via Berkley to Oakland, dis- tance 83 miles to San Francisco, with no grades, being 12 miles ran Joaquin River on the east and northward, the broad bottom lands of which extend for over thirty milea north, where they unite with, and from thence become the great Sacramento Valley, extending farther than the eyt can reach. The station buildings art located between the old and the new tracks, and are very conlmodious. From Tracy, our course is north of west, direct for the junction of tha Sacramento and San Joaquin Hi vers. The country is principally settled by agriculturists and small stock raisers. The lands where cultivated, are fenced, and can always be depended upon for raising good crops ; some without irri- ?:atlon, but all with it— the facilities or which are readily obtained, and with little expense. Bethany— is the first station after leavincr Tracy, trains stop on signal. To the left five miles, are the Contra Costa mountains, grass covered, with timber in the ravines, and some trees on the higher peaks. Near the station, on the left, is a grove of eucalyptus trees. MIRROR LAKE AND REFLECTIONS^kYO MITE VALLEY, CAL. (See Annex No. 4a) Q (12.) 1 • • • • • • • cbofutt's new overland toubist 179 Continuing on nine miles, we reach another signal station, named Byron, from which it is five miles to the signal station of Brentwood. Oak trees arc numerous for the last ten miles, with some chaparral in places on the right. The soil is a rich sandy loam, warm, and easily worked. The mountains to the left, are closer and covered with trees. Five miles further and we stop at Antioeb Station— The town is one mile to the right, on the banks of the San Joaquin .Kiver, above its Junc- tion with the Sacramento. See page 189. Leaving Antioch, we pass under three railroad tracks which come down from the coal mines, two miles to the left, and run to shipping wharfs one mile to the right. These mines are extensive, but the quality is quite ordinary. Our road for the next twenty miles if cut through many narrow rocky or san- dy spurs, from 50 to 100 feet in height. that shoot down from the mountains on our left, to the water's edge on our right, between which, are as many little creeks, or sloughs, over which the road is built, sometimes on piles, and with tuile lands on each side. n Cornwall— is five miles from An- tioch, opposite Suisun Bay, just below the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, which are one mile to the right. At this station we get a first view of the town of Benicia, five miles ahead to the right, on the opposite side of the waters. Those large buildings on the higher ground are the U. S. arsenal and barracks. (See description page 187.) To the left of our train, all along be- side the mountains, are many well- fenced and cultivated farms, with neat cottages surrounded by orchards, vine- yards, fruit, and flowers, together with evergreen shade trees in great variety, and in great abundance. Passing Bay Point in eight miles, Avon in three, four more brings us to Martineas— the county seat of Con- tra Costa county, a small town of about 600 inhabitants. The country is princi- pally devoted to agriculture and vin« culture, the vineyards being numerous Continuing along, at times on the river bank and through several rocky cuts, 8}^ miles brings us to the Short Line Overland Route. (See page 183). 12 Cllis— is 6.2 miles from Bantas, west, situated in the midst of a beautiftil valley, which is rapidly settling up. The coal mines of Corral Hollow are fourteen miles distant from this station to the southeast, connected a portion of the way by rail- track. The "Central " Co. use large quan- titles of this coal— besides transporting it to San Francisco, and other cities and towns. Since leaving the last station we have gained altitude, this station being 76 feet elevation. Another engine will be attached here, as the grade increases rap- Idly after leaving this station until we gel to the summit of the mountain. Midway — formerly called "Zink House," is 5.7 miles from Ellis ; elevation, 357 feet. Soon after leaving the station, I we enter the bluffs, pass tnrough deep cute and over high nils, our two iron horses puffing and blowing furiously as I they labor up the heavy grade. These bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute of vegetation. To our right can be seen the old wa^on road, but now almost de- serted. Still upward and onward, the long train thundering around this jutting point, and over that high embankment twisting and turning, first to the right, and then to the left, like some huge serpent, while the bluffs seem to increase in height, and the canyon is narrower and darker at every turn, until, at last, we are plunged into total darkness, and the tunnel of Liver- more Pass; elevation, 740 feet This tun. nel is the only one on the road from Sacra, mento to San Francisco ; is 1,116 feet long, supported by heavy timbers. (See iilu^ tration, page 177 i Passing through the tunnel, our descent is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down Into one of the loveliest little valleys in the whole country, and 7.9 miles from Midway our train stops at I Altamont— This is a small station ^t the foot of the mountain. Speeding to me westward 8.1 miles, brings us to ! liivermore— a thrifty town of about 1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are en^ gaged in agricultural pursuits. The town 18 the center of Livermore Valley — one of I the most fertile in the State— is about 20 miles long and fifteen miles wide, sur- rounded by the Contra Costa Mountains, and their numerous spurs. To the north, away above the head of the valley, rises Mt Diablo, the meridian center of the Pacific coast At the station are several very large 180 PACIFIC COAST GXnDE. warehouses tor storing grain — as this is a productive grain valley — several large hotels, some stores and many fine, costly residences. Here are particularly notice- able the eucalyptus, or Australian blue gum tree; we have seen it in a few places before, but from this time forward they will be found numerous, in some places comprising immense groves. These trees are planted alon^ the sides of the streets, aroimd public buildings, in the grounds of private residences, and by the Railroad Company, in immense quantities^ The latter had 300,000 of these trees growing beside their road and around their stations in the year in 1877, and we understand 500,000 more are to be set out as soon as they can be procured. One peculiarity of this tree, besides its being an evergreen and unusually thrifty, is, that it will grow on the most sandy, alkaline, dry ana bar- ren soil, and it is said to be a sure preven- tive agiainst chills and fever, where it is grown in profusion. Some claim that it is nre-proof, and that shingles or plank sawed from these trees will not burn, and for that reason they are very much esteemed in Australia — its native country — and from which the first on this coast were imported. There are 126 known species of the eucalypti, about 50 of which are to be found m California. Leaving Livermoro, the ground is covered very thickly in places with white, water-worn pebbles, from the size of a mustard seed to that of a bird's egg; when the ground is bare of grass or grain, they ihow very plainly. ^^ Pleasanton— is (tiached 6.1 miles west of Livermore, after crossing a long bridge over Alameda Creek. The town contains about 600 population and is beati- tiftilly situated on the western edge of the valley, and is a thrifty, substantial town. Leaving the station, me mountain again looms up directly ahead, and it looks to be impossible this time to get through it; but •con the train passes around, or through lereral mountain spurs, and emerges into a narrow canyon, down which ripples the sparkling Alameda Creek. The blufis r »n each side are steep, and covered with scrub oaks, wild oata,and bunch grass. Sycamore trees are to be seen, also white and live oaks, some with long, drooping moss- covered boughs — some very large — grow- ing on the banks of the creek, presenting at a oistance the appearance of an apple-tree laden w^tfc^ finiit On we go, down, down, first on one side of the creeS, then on the other, the blufis drawing in close on both sides, through deep cuts, over high bridges, with rapidly changing scenery on either hand. Soon we enter a little valley where once was located the San Jose June- tion at Hunol— the road bed of which can be seen on the left Then the caynon narrows to a gorge, and on, on we go past the old "Vallejo Mill," the track curving to the westward, and 11.6 miles from JPleasan- ton the train arrives at Niles— elevation 86 feet From Liver, more Pass we have descended 654 feet, and are now in tlie valley, which continues to San Francisco Bay. Niles is situated in the thickest settled portion of Alameda Valley, surrounded by the finest lands in the State of California, and will, at no distant day, be a place of considerable importance. Seven miles to the south, by rail, are the noted warm springs of Alameda county. Niles is now the junction of the Ban Jose branch, which runs around the head I of Alameda Valley and San Francisco Bay. As the train for San Jose is ready, let us 'step on board and take a look at the conn- I try. Four miles brings us to Washington, I About two miles to the east is located the I old mission San Jose, in a delightful nook jin the mountains, just such a beautiful site I as all the old Padres were sure to select I Three miles further is the Warm Sfrinqb, I where the traveler will find ample accom- |modationsfor a pleasant sojourn. These springs are situated a short distance from the station, in a quiet little valley amone !the foothills, rather retired, surrounded j by attractive pcenery. The waters are im- pregnated with sulphur,- and are highly spoken of for their medicinal qualities. In ear these springs is one of several coun- ' try residences owned by the Hon. Leland I Stanford, President of this road. It is now occupied by his brother, Josiah, who over- looks many orchards of choice fruit, be- sides a vineyard containing 100,000 vines. From the Springs it is four miles to Mii#. PBTAS, and seven more to Sav Jose, at which place the " Central " connects with the Southern Pacific railroad for the north and south. (See description of San Josa on page 206J Returning to Niles, we continue our journey towards "Frisco." On a clear day, the city of San Francisoo — 2_6 miles distant — can be distinctly CKOFUTT's new OVBRLA.ND TOURIST 181 n little to the left, ahead of the train across the bay. Decota— is three miles from Niles, through beautiful fields on our left and high blufis on the right. This is a new town — one preparing for the future, and promises at this time to be one of unusual importance as a suburban residence for the merchant princes of San Francisco. The lots are very large, with wide aven- aes, beside which are planted long rows of trees — mostly eucalyptus — to the number of from 40,000 to 50,000. The water comes from living springs, which flow abundantly a few miles to the east in the mountains. To the left the valley stretches away ten miles to San Francisco Bay, dotted here and there with comfortable farm-houses, and on all sides extensive and well^ulti- vated fields. Passing along, many young orchards and groves of trees will be noticeable, also some of the beautiful country residences of San Francisco's merchants. Hayward^s Station— is 6.8 miles from Decota. The town is one mile to the east, nestling in beside the mountains, and a lovely hamlet it is, completely embow- ered in ornamental trees, among which are the Japanese persimmon. Near the town are two groves of eucalyptus trees, of about 150 acres, aggregating 250,000 ttees, 200,000 of which are raising for the Railroad Com- pany. The town has a population of about 1,000, many of whom do business in San Francisco, going and returning daily, 23 miles. Along this valley for many miles, the Railroad Company have planted, beside their road, double rows of the "gum-tree," as the eucalyptus is called here, and we understand, should the experiment prove satisfactory they will continue the planting until their whole 2,000 miles of road and branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yuma, in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- culiar trees. From Hayward's it h 2.7 miles to liOrenzo— This is a small village sur- rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to theri^ht, beside the mountain, that large buildm^ is the County Poor House. Some of the pioneers of this countrv, and others that were once rich, are in that building. This is a country where the "ups and downs " are very rapid; one is rich to-day, with gold to throw away, then poor to- morrow, without a farthing in the world. Alanieda county isnotedfor its peculiarly rich and fertne soil, which seems cially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of fruit and vegetables, the size and weight of which are truly marvelous. This val- ley is the currants' home, which are raised in immense quantities. Here is located a large drying establishment, by the Alden process. One man, a Mr. Meek, has a 2,200 acre farm here, on 800 of which, are 250,000 currant bushes, 1,200 almond trees, 4,200 cherry trees, 8,000 prune and plum, 1,500 pear, 2,500 apple, 1,500 peach, and 2,000 apricot trees, besides six acres in blackberries, and many orange trees. Another poor fellow has 120 acres, on which are 2,000 plum trees, 2,000 cherry, 1,500 pear, 1,000 apple, 400 peach and apricot trees, and 25 acres in currants and berries. Still another individual has 100.000 cur- rant bushes, and the fourth, raised in 1877, 200 tons of pumpkins, SOk) tons of beets, and 20 tons of carrots. Currants grow as large as filberts ; cherries, three inches in circumferance ; plums, pears, apples, peaches, and apricots, extraordinarily large, while carrots grow three feet long, and weigh 35 pounds ; cabbages, 75 pounds ; onions, five pounds; water-melons, 85 pounds; pumpkins — well, no scales can wei^h tTiem — pears, 8J^ pounds; straw- berries, two ounces ; and beets — not hoode- lums— 200 pounds. These beets beat in weight those raised in any other country — 80 far as heard from — ana, one of our aged and revered philosophers once said " they beat the devil."— Possibly, we are not •ufflciently educated to m&ke &nj po8itiv0 statement of the kind that could be taken as reliable All kinds of grain yields are fenormous. From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to ^ H^an lieandro— This place contains a population of about 2,000. It was once the coimtyseat of Alameda county, but that honor was taken away to enrich Oakland, yet the citizens seem to stand the loss, and do not stop in their efforts to improve and beautify the town, or in raising the finest and largest vegetables in the State. The next station is 4.2 miles distant, called Melrose— This is a small station al the junction of the Alameda railroad. Close beside the mountain, on the right, is lo» rated the Mills Seminary, for young ladies. The building cost about $100,000. Thf grounds occupy 66 acres, and are mosi beautiful, in trees, lawns, etc. Alameda — Alameda county, if fouj 182 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. miles to tlie left of this station. Popula- tion 1,600. It is situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, four miles from Alameda Point, and ten miles from San Francisco, with which it is connected by ferry boats, by the San Francisco & Ala- -meda railroaa, and with the " Central " at Melrose. It has good schools and •churches and elegant private residences. "The town abounds in beautiful groves of oaks. The Encinal and other parks are venr beautiful. It is a favorite resort for bathers and for picnic parties from San Francisco. The Encinal and Argm, both weekly papers, are published here. Passing on to the westward, the traveler will note a race track on the left, where some of the best blooded stock in the State can often be seen exercising. Near by is a large smelting furnace, for manipulating gold, silver, and other ores. We are now passing 'through what — only a few years since — ^was an open coun- try, now the suburbs of a big city, that is known as £ast Oakland— once called Brook- lyn, 3.3 miles from Melrose. An incor- porated part of Oakland — a very thrifty place — is separated from the ola city by an arm of San Antonio Creek, but con- nected by bridges. East Oakland and Oakland are situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, on ground which slopes gradually back from the bay for several miles to the foot-hills, or base of the Contra Costa Mountains, in their rear. Upon this sloping ground are built many elegant " out of town " residences of the merchants of San Francisco, which com- mand a beautiful view of their city, the Bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding country. A short distance to the northeast, in a canyon of the mountains, are situated the "Piedmont Whitb Sulphur Springs." These springs are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and it is claimed that they possess medicinal qualities. But whv Cal- ifomians should be sick, or drink sulphur water, when they have such good wine, and io much of it, we are unable to understand. The only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is located at this place— the "Oakland Cotton Mills." Steam cars run regularly between the city and San Francisco, every half-hour, fare 15 cents; by commutation tickets much less. These cars run through the center of the city of Oakland, and not on the track used by the Overland train, until the long pier is reached below Oakland Point When the road was first built, all trains run through the heart of the city, but subsequently a road was built on piles over the shoal water on the edge of the bay, skirting the city front, reaching the old track on the pier, half a mile below Oak- Hand Point, since which time Overland trains, by this route, take that track. Leaving East Oakland our train runs along over the water, affording a very good view of the bay on the left, and on the right, Oakland, ana mountain to the back of it Two miles further and the train stops at the station for Oakland— the county seat of Ala- meda county, has a population of 34,700, and is the second city in size on the Pacific coast Few cities in the world have ever increased, with as good, healthy, substantial growth, as has Oakland within the last seven or eight years. According to the census of 1870, the population was 11,- 104, an increase in ten years of nearly twenty-four thousand. What Brooklyn, New York, is to New York City, so is Oakland to the city of San Francisco. The name of the city is sig- nificant of its surroundings, as it is situated in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, with orchards, par'ks, gardens and vine- yards on every side. Nestling amidst this forest of perpetual green, can be seen, peeping out here and there, the magnificent villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- dence of the wealthy merchant, and the neat and tasteful cottage of the " well-to- do" mechanic, who have been attracted here by its grand scenery, oiild climate, and quiet surroundings — being free from dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city de- voted to business. Oakland is lighted with gas ; has broad- well-paved streets ; is abundantly supplied with water; supports several horse rail- roads; three daily newspapers— the Trtft- une, Times, and the Democrat, and is pro- vided with just a score of churches. The Masons, Odd Fellows, and many of the other fellows have halls and hola regulai meetings. Public and private schools are ample. The higher educational institutions com. prise the University of California, the State University School, the Female College of the Pacitic, the Oakland Military School, the Oakland Female Seminacv, and the crofutt's new overland tourist 18a Convent of " Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." The University of California is at Berkley, four miles distant. J t is con- ■tructed throughout of brick and iron —they say, earthquake and fire-proof. Near the University, towards the bay, is located the State Asylum of the Deaf, Dumb and Blind. It is a massive stone building, three stories high, 300 feet above the bay, and commanding a very extensive view. Oakland, besides its attractions as a place of residence, has many manufactories, some very extensive, giving employment to hun- dreds of people. We have it from the best authority, that there are $4,350,000 invested in the manufacturing business, the annual product of which amounts to an enormous sum. The Central Pacific Railroad Company completed a road called the Berkley Branch, and opened it for business January 9, 1878, which commences at the end of the pier at West Oakland, and runs north and east- ward around mountains of the Contra Costa Range, and in full view of San Pablo Bay, to Martinez, 35 miles, thence to Tracy, 48 miles, [see page I78l. By this route all overland trains run during 1879, and by which the trains for Los Angeles, Yuma, and Arizona now run. [S-e map, page 120j. The principal hotel at East Oakland is Tubbs' ; at Oakland, the Grand Cen- tral. At Oakland Point, from which the long pier is built out into the bay, are located the extensive workshops of the Central Pacific. Their yard and ground occupy 129 acres. Leaving Oakland, our train speeds along through the edge of the city for about half a mile, then gradually curves to the southward, running out to meet the main Oakland pier, which it reaches 1.4 miles from Oakland, 1.6 miles from the Oakland end of the pier, and 2.1 miles from the end of the pier to the westward. Down this long pier rolls our train, directly into the bay— but we must return to Sacramento, for the last time, and take The New IShort liine Ronte. 6ee time table Taking our seat in the cars, in the ** Central" depot, the train crosses the bridge— 600 feet long— over the Sacra- mento River, and pass through the town of llVashington— on the west bank, a place of about 1,000 population, then cross the "Tuiles"— abroadbeltof over- flowed swamp land — on an embankment and trestle bridge, raised above the an- nual floods, until we reach the highlands or elevated plains. The trestle bridge affords passage for the flood tides. From Sacramento it is 8.35 miles to Webster— a small side-track for loading cattle, near by which large numbers of cattle are kept and fed, preparing for market. From Webster it is 4.88 miles to DaTis— the junction of the Marys- ville Branch, where the road passes on north to Knight's Landing and Willows. It contains a population of about 000, with many fine private residences. Turning north— from Davis— we pass through large groves of live oak, and highly cultivated fields, and 5.05 miles from Davis, come to a side-track for loading cattle, called Merrit— but it did not have merit enough for our train to stop, so we passed along 4.34 miles to Woodland — the county seat of Yolo county, situated three miles west of Cache Creek, in the midst of an exten- sive plain. The town is one of the most thriving in the State. Population about 3,000. Yolo county, in the sum- mer, is one vast wheat field— far, almost as the eye can reach, the waving wheat stretches away on either hand. Huge oaks are seen in every direction, and several large warehouses for wheat appear. The principal hotels are the Crapt, and the Capital. Along the road we will observe a number of vineyards. Soon after leaving Woodland, on the right, can be seen the race track, where, at certain seasons, some good time is made. Again on the left, the track of the Northern railway branches off for Willows. Groves of oak and bands of sheep are numerous. Curtis — A side-track, is passed 5.0S miles from Woodland, and 4.05 miles more brings us to Knight's Landing — at the landing of which we stopped on our way " up the Sacramento." (See description, page 171). Returning to Woodland we take the 184 CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Northern Railway. This road is operated by the * 'Cen- tral, "and passes through one continu- ous wheat, field for the whole distance from Woodland to Willows, 87 miles. The stations and distances are Yolo. 4.91 miles; Blacks, 5.88 miles; Dunni- ffan, 7.52 miles ; Harrington, 5.04 miles ; Arbnckle, 517 miles ; Berlin, 4.6 miles ; Macy, .93 miles ; Williams, 5.73 miles ; Maxwell, 8.85 miles; Delevan, 5.24 miles ; Norman, 3.66 miles ; Logandale, 2.36 miles, and 5.57 miles more to the *'end of the track," at Willows. This road follows the general course of the SacramentoEiver,atadistanceoffrom ten to twenty miles to the westward. The Hot Sulphur Springs are situa- ted about ten miles west of Williams, and are quite a resort for invalids. Crude sulphur is found in quantities. Ee turning to Davis we start again for the south. Just after crossing Putah Creek we come to the great vineyard belonging toaMr.Briggs. It contains 500 acres, the greater portion of which is devoted to raisin grapes, the balance is in al- monds, figs, apricots and other fruit. Tremont is the first station on the bills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here trains seldom stop. 'Xo. 45 Annex.— The Geysers— No. 17 of our large series of views gives a very truthful picture of this "wonderful region. Here extremes meet in a most astonishing way, if the diversity of mineral springs can be called extremes, as they are over two hundred in number and possess every variety of characteristics ; some are hot and others are icy cold ; some contain white sulphur, some black, some red, or yellow; others alum— and boiling alum at that; others iron; others soda ; others oh, well, it's idle to go on particularizing. You have but to name your spring, and it is ready for you. Side by side boil and bubble the hottest of hot springs, and the coldest of cold ones, being frequently but a few inches apart Indeed, so closely do they lie to- gether that the greatest care must be exercised lest one should step knee-deep into a boihng cal- dron or an icy bath. Even the rocks become thoroughly heated, and quantities of magnesia, sulphur, alum, epsom salts, and many other chemicals, lie thickly strewn about, making a sort of druggist's paradise. The noises, too, and the smells, are as diversified as the character of the springs ; some hiss, some murmur, some roar. Of these springs, one is known as the "Devil's Grist-Mill ;" another, the "Calliope ;" then the "Steamboat Geyser, the "Witche's Cal- dron," the "Mountain of Fire," the latter of ■which contains more than a hundred apertures, and in all of these are shown, each for itself, some interesting and remarkable peculiarity. (See route to the Geysers on pages 198 and 200.) I¥o. 53 Annex. [From pages 210 and 211.] Yo-Semite and Bl^ Trees- JBa;ample,by the aew Madera Route, for a trip of less than 5 days. Take Sleeper, ana leave San Francisco (say on Monday) at 4 p. m., dine at I.athrop, at 8 p. m., arrive at Maderia at 12 :10 a. m., Tuesdaymorn- ihg. Rest in sleeper until 5 :30, breakfast, take stage and leave at 6 a. ni. , arrive at Clark's at 3 p. m., and Yo-Semite at 7 p. m. Distances : From San Francisco to Lathrop 94 miles. Iiathrop to Madera 91 " Madera to Clark's 61 " Clark's to Yo-Semite 24 " Total 260. Time, 27 hours. Stay in Valley two days. Returning, leave the Valley at 1 p. m. Thurs- day ; arrive at Clark's at 6 p. m. ; leave Clark's Fri- day, 6 a. m., via Big Trees, and arrive at Madera at 7 p. m., and take sleeper ; leave Madera Satur- day 4 :15 a. m., reach Lathrop for breakfast, and arrive in San Francisco at 12 :35 p. m. Special Sleepers run between San Francisco and Madera, ' giving two full nights' rest, avoiding early and late changes, and many annoyances heretofore experienced by the tourist. The new wagon road from Clark's into and through the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees — 427 in number, the largest being 24 feet in diameter- enables the tourist to spend a i>ortion of a day in the Grove without additional charge and make the same connections. The old route is to Merced, by same train, stop over attheElCapitanHotel,and next morning take coaches via either SneUing and Coulterville, or via Mariposa. Taking the CoulterviUe route, 12 miles, at Marble Springs, is Bowers' Cave ; 20 more, Hazel Green. From Hazel Green, eleva- tion b,699 feet, a fine view of the great San Joa- quin Valley can be obtained. Here the McLane wagon road leads off to the Merced Grove of Trees. At Crane Flat, 34 miles from Coulterville, a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, one mile distant. There are 31 trees, the largest being 36 feet in diameter. The first view of Yo-Semite is had at Valley View, 40 miles from Coulterville and 12 miles from Yo-Semite. Distance by this route is about 245 miles. The Mariposa route is via the town of Maripo- sa, 46 miles, thence to Clark's 31 miles. At Clark's , a road leads to theMariposa grove of trees. STAGE CO. TOURIST TICKET BVTES. ' Exc. 1. San Francisco via Madera to Yo- Semite and Return $59.00 Exc. 3. Lathrop via Madera to Yo-Semite and Return 54.00 Exc. 5. San Francisco via Merced to Yo- Semite and Return 55.00 Exc. 7. Lathrop via Merced to Yo-Semite andReturn 50.00 Exc. 9. Madera to Yo-Semite and Return 45.00 Exc. 11. Merced " " " " 45.00 Exc. 13. Madera " « (Single Trip) 25.00 Exc. 15. Merced « « « « 25.00 Sam. MiUer, Tourist Agent, Palace Hotel, San Francisco. We give the above "Example" that those whose "time is money," can calculate accordingly. Pas- sengers can leave SanFranciscoatthe same time every day in the week, and make the same time on a round trip, or, can stop over as long as they choose. Tickets good until used. crofutt's new overland tourist 185 Dixon— is 4.26 miles from Tremont, and is quite a thrifty town, situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section of Solano county. It has several hotels, and a 1 1 umber of stores. It is 3.35 miles to Batavia — and 4.84 miles to Elmira— which has a pop. of 800, most of whom are agriculturalists. Here the Vaca Yalley railroad branches off to the north, through Yolo, the great wheat county, 27 miles to Madison. Cannon— is a flag station, 3.97 miles from Elmira, and 6.85 miles from ISnisnn — near the town of Fairfield, county seat of Solona county, situated on a broad plain, with a population of 1,000, and rapidly increasing. Small schooners come up the slough from the Sacramento Eiver, to near the town. Trom Sacramento to this station our train has followed the track of the California Pacific, once called the Vallejo Koute— It was distant by rail from Sacramento to Vallejo 60 miles, and from Vallejo, via. steamers over San Pablo Bay, 26 miles, making 86 miles to San Francisco. This route is now changed— but let us go and see. From Fairfield, it is 5.38 miles to Bridgeport— Just before reaching the station, a short tunnel is passed, through a spur of the western range, which is thrown out to the south, as though to bar our progress, or to shut in the beautiful little valley in the center of which is located the station. The grade now begins to increase, as our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, which border San Pablo Bay. These hills are very productive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvesting. In the valley through which we have passed are several thriv- ing towns, but not in sight. From Bridgeport it is 3.83 miles to Creston— but we will not stop, but roll down through the hills bordering the bay, 3.7 miles to Napa Junction— Here we are in Napa Valley, which is on the west ; be- yond are the Sonoma hills, over which is the Sonoma Valley; to the south- ward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa Valley branch, which runs north to Calistoga, 35 miles. (For a description, see page 196). Continuing, our route is now south, along the base of the hill we have just crossed, which also runs south to the Straits of Carquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento River, which flows into San Pablo Bay. The Fair Grounds of the counties of Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 8.2 miles, and three miles further appears North Val- lejo, 1.1 miles more. South Vallejo, where the boats once laid which con- veyed passengers over San Pablo and San Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the City of San Francisco. A description of this route across the bay, will be found on page 196. As North and South Vallejo are virtually > > r 9 CO w H > r w :< o > »^ o &5 w • •*• e t ••• • • >• AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. l9S 13 %96 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- dize and hard cash. The greater portion of all this wealth was confiscated by the Mexican Govern- ment, so that when California became a portion of the United States little re- mained, except these old adobe walls and grounds, together with about 600 volumes of old Spanish books, manuscripts and records. Returning to the city, we pass many objects of mterest well worthy of notice, and through a portion of the city rapidly building up, and in a substantial manner. Route 2,— 'AX the wharf, beside Oak- land Ferry, we will find one of the large steamboats that run in connection with the Vallejo route; let us step on board, and note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, our course is north, with the Oakland wharf, the route by which we come — far to the right, as also Goat Island. On our left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, beyond which is the Golden Gate ; a little farther to the northward, is the Coast Range, with Mt. Tamalpais as the high- est peak ; elevation, 2,604 feet. Looking back, we have a beautiful view of the city; a little further on, Oakland, West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, with the Contra Costa Mountains for a back-ground. Now we pass — on the left — Angel Island, San Quintin, and San Rafael, in the order written. Now comes the "Grandfather," a huge red rock on the left, above the " Old Man and Woman." Continuing on, we come to the " Two Brothers," on which is located San Pablo light-house; beyond these are the "Two Sisters," making seven rocky islands. Opposite the light-house, on the right, is Point Pedro, which projects out from the mountains on the east, far to the westward, as though to bar our progress. Rounding this "point," we enter San Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right and left for many miles. Away to the far right can be seen a portion of the town of Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, through which runs the regular overland trains via Martinez, as noted on pages 186-187-189. Passing on, we come in front of the Straits of Carquinez, through which flows the Sacramento River — as noted on page 187. We have left a broad expanse of water on our left, over which steamers run to Petaluma — as noted in route No. 3. Entering through a narrow channel, with Mare Island close on our left, we land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars of the California Pacific, and roll along to the Napa Valley Junction, where we were before, while making a trip over the " Vallejo Route." (See page 183.) Napa Junction— by this route it is 33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to Thompson — a signal station, passed by our train, as also many groves of young trees on our right, and beauty on every side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to Napa City — Although this is Napa City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the people by no means look sleepy, but as bright as though they had just come passed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, and above all, to breathe the pure air of the charming little valley, while viewing the beautiful mountain scenery. The population of the town is about 500 : the principal hotels are the Magnolia ana Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- posed to furnish " all the news " is a weekly, called the Galistogian. Calistoga is sit. 198 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST n uated at the he.ad of the valley, 68.15 miles from San Francisco, surrounded on three sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast Range, as well as by vineyards and orchards; wine cellars— well, they are thicker here than quarlz mills at Virginia City. The Petrified Forest — is distant about five miles, and consists of about forty acres of ground, covered more or less with petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet in diameter at the stump. These trees are nearly all down, some nearly covered with earth and volcanic matter, while the ground sparkles with silica. They will well re- pay a visit from the curious. Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to Middleton; 20 to Harbern Springs; 20 to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and 45 to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious mineral can be shoveled up by the cart-load. To the northeast it is 78 miles to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 miles to Qlenbrook; 41 to Kelseyville; 48 to LakePoint, situated on the west shore of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, but particularly in summer. To the south- west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa Rosa. The celebrated Foss, with his .stage, leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en route to The Geysers— These springs, with their taste, smell and noise, are fearful, wonder- ful. We have been told that "California beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be far from this place. Here are over 200 mineral springs, the waters of which are hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, soda, alum, sul- phur — well, you should be suited with the varieties of sulphur ! There is white sul- phur and black sulphur, yellow sulphur and red sulphur, and how many more sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if there are any other kinds wanted, and they are not to be seen, call for them, they are there, together with all kinds of contending elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bub- bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell that would disgust any Chinese dinner- party. We are unable to describe all these wonderful things, but will do the next best thing. (See large illustration No. 17 and description in Annex No. 45, page 184.) The Geyser Hotel, seen through the foliage in the picture, is the only house which provides accommodations at the springs. Steam baths and other kinds will here be found ample, and board $14 per week. In the region of the springs, are mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines that are being worked to advantage. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 3. HvLik Francisco and Horth Pacific Railroad. General Offices— San Francisco. P. Donahue Prefddent Arthur Hughes General Manager. P. J. McGiiYNN Gen. Pass, and Ticket Agent. Kepairmg to the wharf, a short distance north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the steamer Donahue, belonging to this road, and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, until Pedro Point is passed, when the course is more to the westward, to the mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked stream, with salt marshes on each side. About six miles from the mouth ot the creek, on the j ight, we come to a double- front cottage, which, when we passed up here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, above the marsh. Several days after, on the downward trip, the water covered the whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was apparently on the first fioor of the build- ing. When it is understood that the party who settled here did so to demonstrate that he could reclaim the land by an original system of dykes, the joke will be apparent, and to him an aqueous joke. From the mouth of the creek, it is about ten miles to Donahue— named for the Presidert of the road. It is situated on the east bank of the creek, close jn beside the bluff's, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from San Francisco. It is simply a landing for the boat where passengers take the cars, which stand under a huge, long building on the end of the wharf. Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is close on the right, almost on the water's edge. Passing along beside the rolling hills, which are cultivated to their summit, one mile brings us to Lakeville, not a very pretentious place, but from which a stage leaves daily for the eastward, over the hills, nine miles to Sonoma— This town is a quiet, old place, founded in 1820, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Many of the old original adobe buildings are still standing in a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 199 good state of preservation. Sonoma has the honor of being the place where the old "Bear Flag" was first raised. It is situated in the Sonoma Valley, one of the richest in the State, and id celebrated for its vineyards and the excellence of its wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, ** It once had the " Frismodial "—single rail— but this has given way to the Son- oma Valley, which runs regular trips in connection with the steamer "Herald" to and from San "Francisco and Sonoma . Stages for Bolinas, south thirteen miles, leave every day, except week days. Leaving, the route is more to the north- ward, with Bolinas Bay over the hills to the left. The timber to the right has entirely dis- appeared, and there is but little on the left, with very little cultivated land. We are now approaching a section which is almost entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we come to Tomales Bay, a portion of which is crossed on a long pile bridge, where are extensive beds of planted oysters, the boundaries of which are marked by poles. Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- cans can often be seen as well as wild geese. This bay is about twenty miles in length, with an average width of one mile. Our train runs along on the edge of this bay, around rocky points, througl; spurs of the bluffs, and across little irikjts for about sixteen miles, where the road turns sharp to the right, up an arm of the bay. In this distance we find the following stations: Wharf Point, three miles from Olema; Millerton, two miles further, and Marshalls, nine more ; then comes Hamlet — Here the regular passenger trains meet. All these side-track stations along the bay are for the accommodation of the dairymen living near, who ship large quantities of milk and butter to San Francisco daily. Tomales Point is on the opposite side of the bay, which is here only about three and a half miles from the ocean. Turning to the right, our road follows up a narrow little valley around rocky points, with high grass-covered hills on each side — makes one great rainbow curve, away around the head of the valley, and comes to a stop at Tomales — This station is 55 miles from San Francisco. Here the Railroad Com- pany have large warehouses for storing grain, from which large quantities are shipped annually. Tomales consists of a few dozen buildings, devoted to merchan- dizing, with a surrounding country well cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on the right, and, in a clear day,/ar beyond the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the station, the road passes through the fourth tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high trestle bridge, and then a small inlet from the ocean, where we leave Marin county, enter Sonoma, and come to Valley Ford Station — Here a stage leaves dady for Petaluma, eighteen miles cast. Years ago the section we ^ are now entering was the southern border of the great redwood forests. Here the lumber- man began his labors, and as years passed, step by step he penetrated this great lum- ber region, leaving in his track stumps, fire, smoke, and finally the clearing, broad, rich fields and well-cultivated farms, from the productions of which he subsists while persistently following up his receding prey — the redwoods. The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to near the station, on the left. Three miles further, we come to Bodega Roads, and one mile more to Freestone, over a heavy grade. Here we come to another AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 203 great horse-shoe curve, around the head of a small valley. First, the road-bed is fa/r above, then far below, with a deep gorge on the left, in which grow raadrone, redwood, and oak trees. Now we come to a trestle bridge, 300 feet long and 137 feet high, over a frightful gorge; and then to the Summit Tunnel, 610 feet long, beyond which is Howard— The principal business at this station is burning coke. Passing on, we enter " Dutch Bill Canyon," called so in early days after Mr. Howard, who there wrestled with the big redwoods that it then contained. Redwoods now appear on each side, as also saw-mills. Streeten Mill is passed on the left, then another tunnel — there are five tunnels in all, on the road, aggregating 3,850 feet — then a long wood shute, and Tyrone Mills— Here are extensive saw- mills on the left, with side-tracks running to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of lumber a day. Leaving this mill, on a down grade, through towering redwoods, 300 feet high, we roll down past another large mill, on the right, to the Russian River, just after passing an unimportant side- track of that name. The river at this place comes down through a perfect forest of towering red- woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- erage depth of two feet. The train runs along on the southern bank, past a beautiful little cottage on the right, away up on a high spur of the mountains, that projects out into the river, and which has been left, as it were isolated by the cutting made by the Railroad- Company in building the road. It is one of several country residences be- longing to the President of the road. Be- yond this point a. short distance, is the Moscow Mills Station, opposite which comes in from the north. Austin Creek, abounding in redwoods. A short distance further, Russian River is crossed on a bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at the end of the road at Duncan's Mills — Here are located ex- tensive aaw-mills, in the midst of great for- ests of redwoods. The station is 80 miles from San Francisco, and consists of one large hotel, the Julian— a good station building, some shops of the Railroad Com- pany, several stores and a dozen or more residences, some of which are very good. Game of various kinds is abundant, such as deer, bears, etc., and some wild Tiogs. Fish — well, this is the fisherman's paradise. From Duncan's Mills it is six miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on Russian River, which is near the station,, also by a good wagon road. Stages leave Duncan's Mills daily, except Mondays, for the following places: Fort Ross, 16 miles; Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; Salt Point, 25 miles ; Fisk's Mills, 30 miles ; Stewart's Point, 34 miles; Gualala, 44 miles; Fish Rock, 50 mi'es; Point Arena,, 60 miles; Manchester, 66 miles; Cuffey's Cove, 80 miles; Navarra Ridge, 86 miles; and Mendocino City, 96 miles ; average fare ten cents per mile. Along the line of this road are located several large saw-mills, which produce for market, 2W),000 feet of redwood lumber daily. In conclusion; the ramble about Dun- can's Mills will be foimd by the tourist, a very pleasant one, in fact, the scenery along the whole line is very interesting. The rapid changes and the great variety are charming, instructive, and when once made will ever live in pleasant memory. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 5. S^onthern Pacific Railroad General Offices, San Francisco. Chas. Crockbe, President, Qbo. E. Gray Chief Engineer. A C. Bassett, General Superintendent, H. R. JtTDAH Gen. Pas. and Ticket Agent. This company own the road from Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley, and, including the Goshen Division, to Los Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is leased to and operated by the " Central '* Company. This leaves the Southern, only the line from San Francisco to Soledad, 142 miles, and the Trespinos division of 18 miles, Monterey 16, making 176 miles^ over which we proj^ose journeying. Leaving the depot, which is situated op- posite the general office, corner Townsend and Fourth, the route is south, through the city for over four miles, most of the dis- tance built up with business blocks, manu- factories, large wool warehouse--, shops and private residences. The company's machine shops — exten- sive works — are situated about two miles from the depot; another mile is Valencia street, where is a horse-car line to the more central part of the city. Then we move another mile, through some deep cuts and high hills on the right, and are at 204 ceofutt's new overland tourist Bernal — a small station 4.6 miles from ■our starting point. Some gardens and vegetable fields now appear, and a short distance from the station is the Industrial School, on an elevation to the right. San Miguel — is two miles further, :among the sand-hills, where are some well- ■cultivated gardens. To the right is Lake JVIercede and the city water works. Continuing along through the hills, which in places are close on each side — with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- tance on the right — down a little valley, then through deep cuts, past Colma, a side-track, and Baden Bay, all in quick suc- cession, we come to the signal station of Baden, or as often called "Twelve Mile Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers •on the Pacific Coast, resides ; and on Mr. Lux's " Twelve Mile Farm " can be found at all times, some of the best cattle in the State. Two miles further, and we are over the hills and down on ihe edge of San Fran- cisco B^, which is on the left, and at San Bruno — This station consists of a ^ood hotel, and four targets, as it is a great resort for shooting at target. The targets are on the edge of the bay to the left; distances, 200, 500, 800, and 1,000 yards each. Here the " sports " gather to try their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is •on the right of the road, where all the targets are at shorter range, and the shots always certain to hit the red. AflLLBRAB is the next station, 17 miles from San Francisco. To the right of the road, half-a-mile distant, is the residence of D. O. Mills, President of the Bank of California. It will be recognized by the two tall towers. A little beyond the station is Millbrae dairy, with large yards and t)uildings. On the left, in the bay, are great beds o^ planted oysters. Soon after leaving Millbrae, we reach Burlingame, designed and laid out by the late Mr. Rals- ton in long streets and avenues, extending for two miles along the road, and from the base of the mountains, on the right, to the bay on the left, about another two miles. Beside these streets and avenues, are double rows of planted trees, most of which are eu- calyptus and Monterey cypress. There are some beautiful residences here and there along the base of the mountains on the Tight. 'i' wo miles from Millbrae, we pass Oak Grove, a small station named for the grove of oaks near by. One peculiarity of this country is: no matter how much ground is shaded with oaks, it makes no difierence with the crops, all kinds of which seem to grow equally well in the shade and in the sun. San Mateo— (pronounced Ma-t-o). Hero are some of the finest private residences and grounds in the State. This town con- tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks and orchards are everywheue. Stages leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of the train from San Francisco for Half-Moon Bay, 14 miles west; Purissima, 23 miles; Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles ; average fare ten cents per mile. Leaving the station, we pass — on the right — a beautiful park, and the Young Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To the left the bay lies close, and the laud is of little value, until reclaimed, but on the right is beauty, spread out with a lavish, hand. Live oaks are scattered around in all directions, with buckeye in the ravines coming down from the mountains on the the right. Windmills are numerous the whole length of the valley. Belmont — which is 25 miles from San Francisco, comes next. At this station the guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont to alight to visit his residence. This place is located a half-mile to the west, up a little valley, just out of sight from the railroad. it originally contained about 100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. Ralston, came into possession of Senator Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the land, including an elegant cottage, to the widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, the Phelps estate is on the right, and double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for two miles. The country between the hills and the bay is flat, and under a high state of cultivation. Redwood City — comes next, 3.5 miles from Belmont. It is the county seat of San Mateo county, and a thriving place. It was named from the great redwood forest on the west, a large quantity of which finds its way to market in the shape of lumber, wood and bark, from this station. The city is supplied with water from an artesian well. The county buildings, schools, churches and hotels, are all said to be first-class, as well as the weekly pa- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 205 per, the Times and Qwzette. Stages leave daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, 16 miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. Passing Fair Oaks, a small station in the midst of beautiful residences, sur- rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and moss-drooping oaks, we come to Menlo Park — near which reside a score or more of millionaires, including Ex- Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, Maj. llathbone, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, and many others. Menlo Park Hotel is situated on the right, and is embowered in trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a palatial residence, situated in the center of princely grounds, with the most costly sur- roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little further, on the right, comes the 500.acre farm of Ex-Gov. Stanford, President of the Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home of "Occident," and some of the finest blooded stock on the Pacific coast. Mayfield — a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other trees. It is A..9, miles from Mountain View — a small station, so named from the extended view which it affords of the Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, on the east, as well as the whole surround- ing country. The great oaks add an indescribable beauty to this country, and grow in great pro- fusion, particularly on the Murphy Grant, through which we are now passing. This grant originally covered some thousands of acres, in this, the richest portion of the Santa Clara Valley. Murphy's Station — f(jr the accommodatioii of the grant — is lo- cated near its center. We are now opposite the head of San Francisco Bay— on the east — and the little town of Alviso, which is noted for its strawberries and fruit, as well as being a point from which immense quantities of pDduce are shipped on the boats that land i.t its ample wharf. We pass on through a section, where every foot of land is in a high state of cul- tivation, for two miles, and come to Lawrence — a small place 3 5 miles from the beautiful Santa Clara — This is a beautiful and quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, originally founded by the Jesuits, i'l 1774. It is situated near the center of Santa Clara Valley, one of the loveliest in the world, possessing a soil of surpassing richness. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- mate, and the excellence and variety c f its fruits ; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- growing valley it has no superior. In point of improvements, good farm-houses, orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, equals. Churches and schools are numerous; Santa Clara and San Jose — three miles apart — are both noted for their educational institutions, where some of the finest in the State are located. The convent of Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the State Normal School, and the new building of the University of the Pacific, Methodist^ Female Seminary, and the Catholic CoJ' legiate Institute, stand as monuments \.*> attest a people's integrity and worth. There are two weekly papers published at Santa Clara — the Index and New». Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven miles ; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten cents per mile. These springs are resorted to by those sufiering with pulmonary complaints. South Pacific Coast R. R., narrow gauge, now completed from Alameda, opposite SanFrancisco,to SantaCruz, 80 miles, passes through Alvarado, a manufacturing town on the east side of the bay, about 10 miles west of Niles, to Santa Clara, thence southwest, through a long tunnel, under the Coast Range of mountains, 37 miles to Santa Cruz, situated on an arm of Monterey Bay, and is often called the "Newport" of California, being a noted sum- mer resort for sea bathers, who find good accommodations in the shape of hotels, bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; connected by rail with the Southern Pa- cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton eight miles; and bv stage, with all adjoin- ing towns up and down the coast, and by steamer to San Francisco. • Returning to Santa Clara, we can, if we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take a carriage for San Jose, and ride over the most beautiful avenues iirtheState,itif bordered on each side with two rows of poplar and willow trees, planted by the early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years ago. Behind these trees are elegant cottages, 206 CROFUTT'S NEW OVEBLAND TOURIST beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, containing almost every variety of vege- tables, fruits, and flowers. By steam cars it is 2.6 miles from Santa Clara to San Jose City — (Pronounced San 0-za) ; population, 18,000. This is the county seat of Santa Clara county, and is the larg- est town in Santa Clara Valley, in popu- lation being the fourth in the State. It was first settled by the Spanish mission- aries, in 1777. The city is lighted with gas; the sti'eets are macadamized, and ornamented with rows of shade trees on each side. Artesian wells, and the " Cali- fornia Wind Mill," together with a small mountain stream, abundantly supply the city with good water. The AlaTneda^ or grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far the prettiest grove of planted timber in the State, and by many people it is claimed that San Jose is the prettiest city in the State. It is certainly one of the best im- proved, and there are none more beautiful. Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees ; its fine private and public buildings, and the delightful climate of the valley, render it a favorite place of summer resort. San Jose has numerous church edifices — ample public and private schools, hotels, and newspapers. The Mercury and In- dependent^ both daily and weekly; the Patriot^ daily; and Argus, weekly, are published here. The Auzerais, St. James, Exchange and Lick, are the principal hotels. The city is connected by railroad with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San Francisco by two lines — the one we came on, through the thickly settled and well- cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo countries ; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- tral Pacific via Niles and Oakland. The new road to Mt. Hamilton — 20 miles distant — leaves San Jose, and can be seen winding up the side of the mountain, on the east It was for the erection of a college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton — altitude, 4,400 feet — that the millionaire, James Lick, left $150,000 in his will. The building has been completed, and reflects much credit on the doner. Stages leave San Jose daily for the noted New Almaden Quicksilver Mines — These mines are very extensive, and should be visited by the curious. They were dis- covered by an officer in the Mexican ser- vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the Indians with their faces pointed with ver- milion, bribed one of them, who told him where it was to be found. The following- year, several English and Mexicans formed a company for working the mines, large sums of monev were expended, and many difliculties had to be overcome ; but finally,, by the introduction of important improve- ments, the mines have proved to be very valuable. The different mines furnish employment for, and support trom 1,000 to 1,500 persons. Nearly all the miners are Mexicans. It is supposed that these mines were known and worked by the native Indians of California, long before the country was known by white men. They worked them to procure the vermilion paint which the ore contained, for the purpose of painting and adorning their villainous persons, ana to "swop" with the neighboring tribes. Near the mines are the springs, where is put up the New Almaden Vichy Water, s^o noted for its medicinal qualities. The Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles distant. Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- bowered in trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, poplar, spruce cedar, Monterey and Italian cypress, orange, pepper, sycamore, and many others. Leaving San Jose, the State Normal School building is on the left in the center of a block, surrounded by beautilul grounds. Several miles further on is the Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to 31 1. Hamilton can be plainly seen; it is 22 miles long and 30 feet wide, with a uni- form grade of five feet to the hundred. Away to the right, on the side of the mountain, marked by a red appearance, is a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents work. Still further and below, is the New Almaden mine, marked by columns of steam that are always ascending. Coyote Creek is now on our left, in a broaa, low bottom. The small stations of Eden Vale, Coyote and Perrys, are soon passed, and 18.8 mi>es from San Jose, we are at Madronb— The country passed over is well settled, and many fine residences are scattered along the valley, which is about one mile in width, with low rolling hills on the west. Leaving Madrone, on the right a huge sharp cone rises up out of the valley 1,000 feet in height. We call it Johnson's Peak, named for the enterprising newsman of this road. Teknants — is four miles further, be- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 207 jond which is the most magnificent moss view that one could conceive. Sycamore and moss-drooping oaks are very plentiful, reminding one of the appearance of a New England apple orchard after a storm of snow and rain, where all the limbs and boughs are borne down with icicles and snow. GiLROY — is seven and a half miles from Tennant and 80.3 miles from San Francisco ; a regular eating station, where trains stop twenty minutes for meals, which are very good; price, 50 cents. Gilroy contains a population of about 2,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Tobacco is raised in large quan- tities, and dairying is made a specialty by many of the people. The principal hotels are the Southern Pacific and the Williams. Stages leave Gilroy for San Fillipe, 10 miles; Los Banos, 48 miles; and Fire- baughs, 80 miles east; fare ten cents per mile. Stages run dail^ to the Gilroy Hot Springs, a very attractive resort, 15 miles ■east. From Gilroy it is 2.2 miles to Carnadero — a small station where pas- senger trains meet, and from which a track branches to the left and continues up the Santa Clara Valley, 11.8 miles to HoLLESTER — a thrifty town of 2,000 in- habitants, most of whom are agriculturists. From Hollester it is 6.2 miles to Trespinos — the end of the 'track. From this point large quantities of freight are shipped for the New Idria Quicksilver, Picacho and other mines in the country, to the south and east. Stages run triweekly to San Bruno, 25 miles; New idria, 65 miles; Picacho, 75 miles; Tare about ten cents per mile. The original route of the Southern Pacific railroad was from this point, via San Beuito Pass to Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley. From Goshen the road is built a distance of 40 miles this way, to Huron. Whether the link between the two divisions will be completed and when^ we will netier tell, till we know. The distance across to Huron is, to San Benito Pass, 60 miles ; to Huron, 100 miles. Returning to Carnadero, we soon come to the great Bloorafield Ranche, which takes in many thousand acres, crossing the valley and over the mountains, on each side. It is the home of Mr. Miller, of Lux & Miller, the great cattle men. At Baden, twelve miles from San Francisco, wc pass Mr. Lux's place, the " Twelve Mile Farm." On this ranche are kept and fattened great numbers of cattle, for the market of San Francisco. Continuing up the valley, which is here narrowed to one mile in width, with low- grass-covered hills on each side, we come to the residence of Senator Sargent, on the right, and a short distance further, Sargent Station — in the midst of a dairy country. Stages leave here for San Juan, south, six miles distant, up a little valley to the left, distinctly seen a few miles further on our w^ay. Soon after leaving the station, we turn more to the westward, and the little valley is completely crowded out by the bluffs, and we run along on the bank of Pajaro River, up a narrow canyon, and cross the line between Santa Clara and Santa Cruz county, at the point where Pescadero Creek comes in on the right. Continuing up, between high bluff's, we cross a bridge over the Pathro River and are in San Benito county, then dive through a tunnel 950 feet long, and come out into the beauti- ful Pajaro Valley, which is nine miles long and four wide, a portion of the Aroma Grant, once a very extensive one. The Santa Cruz Mountains are high, on the right, and covered with a dense growth of redwoods. Passing Vega, a signal station, we come to Pajaro— (pronounced Pah-a-ro) thirteen miles from Sargent's, and 99.4 from San Francisco. Watsonville — is one mile to the right from this station, and contains a popula- tion of 4,000, and is a thrifty town, situated three miles from Watson's landing, on Monterey Bay, where steamers and other vessels land regularly. It contains two weekly papers, the Pajaronian and the Transcript. The Lewis House is the prin- cipal hotel. From Pajaro, the Santa Cruz, narrow- gauge railroad connects with the Southern Pacific. This road is 21.15 miles long and runs through Watsonville, Aptos, and Soquel, to Santa Cruz. (See map, page 120.) The lumber business is, next to the agri- cultural, the most important interest in this section of the country. From Pajaro, our course will be east of south, to the end of the road. Rolling down this beautiful valley, we come to Elkhorn Slough, over which our road is built on piles for a long distance. To the right, down this slough, is Moss Landing, nine miles distant, between which and a pier, close on our right, a small 208 crofutt's new overland tourist steamboat plies regularly, for the transportation of freight and passen- gers for the regular coast steamboats that stop at this point. We are now running along, over and beside a salt marsh, inhabited by cranes,pelicans,ducks and mud-hens, with peat bogs and stagnant pools for immediate surroundings, while to the left, a half-mile away, is high rolling Erairie, covered with cattle and sheep, eyond, the long range of the Gabilan Mountains, while to the far right, a glimpse can be had of the Ocean. From Pajaro, 10.3 miles, brings us to Castro viLLE— one-half-mile to the west of the railroad ; population about 800. The town is situated at the north- ern end of Salinas Valley,in Monterey county, one of the most productive in the State. It is recorded in the Agri- cultural Bureau in Washington, that the largest yield of wheat ever known was grown in this valley, in 1852, being 102 bushels to the acre. That year whole fields averaged 100 bushels to the acre ; an ordinary crop is from 40 to 50 bushels. In 1873 Monterey coun- ty produced 800,000 bushels of wheat, 400,000 bushels of barley, 70,000 bush- els of oats, and other productions in proportion. Sheep and cattle in large numbers are raised. The wool-clip for 1866 amounted to 1,500,000 lbs ; butter, 360,000 lbs. ; cheese 120,000 lbs. ; aver- age value of land, $8 per acre. The lands in this valley are mostly * safe lands,' will produce without irrigation. In the spring of 1880, a branch road was completed from Gastroville to Monterey, 16 miles. It is of standard gauge, and takes the place of the old narrow gauge from Salinas. Monterey.— This place is situated on the southern extreme of the bay of Monterey, the most capacious on the Pacific coast, 136 miles from San Fran- cisco by rail, and about 100 by steamer. Immediately to the westward of the city is Point Pinos, jutting out to the northward four miles, to meet Point Santa Cruz, another long promontory extending from the north, between which and the main land— land-locked as it were— is the broad bay of Monte- rey. This bay was first discovered by Cabarillo in 1542. In 1770 the site was occupied by the Jesuits, under the leadership of Padre Junipero, who. June 3, of that year,held the first mass. The bell which called the faithful to- gether was hung from a tree, the loca- tion of which is now marked by a cross, erected on the centennial day of its celebration, bearing the legend, "June 3d, 1770." On the hill, near this cross, are the ruins of an old fort, near a Mexican fort of a later date; and high- er up the hill is where the American fort of 1846 was built, when the Amer- icans seized the country. Monterey is a quiet, sleepy old town, where every person seemed satisfied with himself, apparently believing the world is completed ; living on in the dreamy self-satisfied consciousness that the spirit of progress is at an end —a present tangible heaven of eternal sunshine. It is a glorious place to spend a few weeks; having done so, the pleasurable memories of the so- journ will ever remain a ray of soft sunshine, while plodding through the cares, trials and perplexities of active business life. Monterey— as one might well suppose- is afavorite resort in the summer for the better classes of cit- izens of the State, as well as for tour- ists, who find ample accommodations. Eeturning to Castroville, to the east, beside the mountains, can be seen, at certain points after leaving Castro- ville, the little villages of Natividad Sodaville, and the Alisal race-track. Salinas— is 7.9 miles south of Cas- troville, situated to the right of the road, and on the east bank of Salinas River, with a thriving population of 3,000, and many fine stores, hotels and private residences. The Abbot is the principal hotel, and the Index and Democrat are two weekly papers. Stages leave daily for New Republic, east, three miles; Natividad, north- east,six miles ; fare, ten cents per mile. Starting once more for the south, we find this to be the widest portion of Salinas Valley, which is about 90 miles in length, with an average width of eight miles. The valley is situated be- tween the Gabilan mountains, to the eastward, and Santa Lucian Range on the west, about 20 miles from the Pa- cific Ocean, from the winds of which it is protected by the mountain named. Chualar— is 10.9 miles from Salinas, and consists of several stores, hotels, saloons and a dozen or more rest- PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 20S dences. Here are cattle pens and shutes, indicating that we are in a country where cattle are shipped to market ; the same might be said of Gonzales a station six miles further, only there are a few more people, "scratching" the soil, which is great- ly abused by this shiftless method of farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles further, we reacTi the end of the track at SoLEDAD— This is a small place of 100 or more inhabitants, with a few stores, hotels, saloons, stage-stables, freight warehouses, and some private residences. It is a point from which a large amount of freight is shipped to the southward, and from which a regular daily line of stages run to the following places: Lowe's 28 miles ; Solon, 40 miles ; Paso Eobles, Hot Sgrings, 80 miles; San Louis Obispo, 10 miles ; Arroyo Grande, 125 miles; Gaudalupe, 140 miles; Santa Barbara, 220 miles ; San Buena Ven- TOWARDS Ho ! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees," over the "Loup," across the Mojave Desert, down through Solidad and to Los Angeles; then, over the San Barnardino, down under the sea, over the great Colorado desert, into Ari- zona, through New Mexico and on to tura, 250 miles, and Newhall, 30O miles; average fare, eight cents per mile. To the westward of Solidad, severt miles, away up a cosy nook of th& Coast Kange, is situated the Paraiso- Springs, which it is claimed, possess medicinal qualities. We could hear of no analysis of these waters, which boil up in close proximity to each other. Some are very hot— others very cold, but soda, iron and white sulphur are the principal ingredients. A hotel will be found at the Springs^ where bathing in the waters, hunting^ fishing and inhaling the pure moun- tain air can be enjoyed. In conclusion, this is one of those trips where a great diversity of scen- ery, numerous objects of interest and the wealth and beauties, and the var- ied productions of the State can be seen and contemplated. Eeturning to San Francisco we start SUNRISE. the "FatherLand" — around the circle. Leaving San Francisco, the route is via Oakland, Martinez, and Tracy, to Lathrop, over the track of the Overland line, as described, com- mencing on page 178. Just before reaching Lathrop our KTo. 31 Annex. Xevada Falls.— In order to form a proper idea of the superb picture, No. 13, of the large series, it will be necessary to premise that the Yo-Semite Valley is an immense gorge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, about seven miles in length, from east to west, and from one-eight of a mile to two miles in width, from north to south. The walls surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly per- pendicular, and from 2,000 to 6,000 feet high. The va' ious streams that find their way into the valley flow over this tremendous wall on entering. At the eastern end of the valley proper, it divides into two canyons, projecting still eastward, but diverging as they mount the Sierras. It is through the south of one of these canons, that the main branch of the Mercede River flows, and on enter- ing the valley, it makes two leaps. The lower one, or Vernal Fall, of 250 feet in height, 100 feet wide, and from three to four feet deep, where it leaps the square-edged barrier. Continuing up the canyon for a mile, above the Vernall Fall, amidst the wildest scenery imaginable, and we reach the Great Nevada Fall, the subject of our picture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge- like form, to quite a point, and just at the right of this vortex is the fall. It is 900 feet high, 75 feet wide at the brink, and 130 feet below. Re- garded as to its height, volume, purity of water, and general surroundings, ib is one of the grand- est objects in the world. The spectator facing the east will observe on his left the "Cap of Liberty" lifting its rounded summit of smooth and weath- er-polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 5,000 feet above the valley below, or 9,000 feet above the sea. To paint in words, in the space allowed us, the beauties of the Fall, the bolder scenery, the foliage, mosses and ferns, always moist from the spray, and brilliant green in summer, the roar ond rush of the fast-flowing river, the majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, which towers above and around it, is simply an impossibility; we shall not try, but refer the reader's imagination and judgment with these statistics to the beautiftil picture, which we have engraved from a faithful photograph. Wo. 40 Annex. Mirror L, 37 Annex. Fa I In of the IVilfamette River.— The scene of the large illustration, No. 9, represents the Falls of the Willamette River, at Oregoa City, Oregon, where the hills approach the river on each side, forcing the river through a deep canyon, and over a fall of from 30 to 40 feet. The cliffs on either side of the river rise abruptly hundreds of feet in height, and are cov- ered at the top and less precipitoug places.witha growth of evergreens. Locks aie built on the Oregon City side of the river, large enough to ad- mit the passage of boats 200 feet long and 40 feet in width. Water power is also supplied from the same source of 4,000 horse powers, which is used for running woolen mills and other manufactories at Oregon City. 216 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST look after a small band of sixteen thousand sheep. But enough of this. We could fill our book with these and many other astonish- ing figures. " Well," you will say, " these California farmers should be contented and happy men." One would think so, but they are not. They are the most inveterate grumblers of any class of people in the world All Californians will, in the iifter- vals between grumbles, express the opinion that tliere is no place under the blue canopy of heaven so good for a white man to live in as California. Ah, well I are they cor- rect? Persc/nally, were it necessary, our affirm could be forthcoming. Returning to Summer, twelve miles, brings us to a small place called Pampa, an I 7 3 miles more to C alien te~Since leaving Summer, the grade has increased ; the valley has been gradually narrowing by the closing in of the mountain ranges on each side, leaving only a narrow strip of land. Nearing this station, it still more contracts, until a deep canyon is reached, in the mouth of which is located Caliente, surrounded by towering cliffs. There are several &tores, one hotel and a large station and freight Avarehouse at this pi ace. A large amount of freight is re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the surrounding country. Stages leave this station daily for Havilah, 25 miles; Keru- ville^ 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per mile. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. Tourists should now note the elevations ; Caliente is 1,290 feet above sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, to an altitude of 3,964 feet, an average of over 106 feet to the mile. Within this dis- tance we shall find some of the grandest scenery on the whole line ; will pass through seventeen tunnels, with an aggregate iength of 7,683.9 feet, and then "over the LOOP," one of the greatc st engineering feats in the world ; feat where a railroad is like a ^ood Roman Catholic — madelocr 23 52 69 17 51 72 21 45 73 28 40 58 18 45 66 21 48 67 19 56 92 86 30 74 44 31 77 42 55 82 27 46 76 80 71 78 7 52 65 13 87 62 25 41 73 32 40 73 33 43 75 82 46 77 31 Latitude Deg. min. 37 48 36 84 40 It will be seen by referring to the above table that Southern California possesses a climate unexcelled in equability by any portion of the world, and of the happiest medium between the extremes of heat and cold. Santa Monica has these advantages of temperature in a special degree, the air being modified by the ocean to a point most agreeable- and invigorating, both to the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. The bathing house, situated on the beach, about fifty feet above the water, is the finest on the coast. It is a large building, supplied with baths of all kinds, where the bathers have within reach, faucets by which a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot or cold, can be instantly obtained by the efibrt of turning them on. Here, too, are steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- dations for which ample provision is made. Santa Monica was first laid out as a town in 1S75, and in two years attained a popu- lation of 800. It has some good stores, and quite a number of good hotels, chief of which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and Ocean House ; the latter has accommoda- tions for about 50 guc.-ts, and the former for 125. These houses are so situated as to command a most extensive view. Their charges are from $12 to $18 per week. Santa Monica had its newspaper once — the Outlook— \>\xi we hear it has moTed, and is now a Look-out at Ana- • helm. Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to- the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas Island, 37 miles in the same direction, and Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 miles distant. These islands are a great protection to Santa Monica from the wrf.th of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. The wharf, which was built from the end of the railroad to deep water, affording a landing for coast steamers, was destroyed in 1878, but we presume will be rebuilt. In the range of the mountains on the north, game of many varieties can be found, and in the lagoons south of the town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and otlier varieties of game are abundant. The drives are very fine, being along the beach for many miles, and then, on the high plateau 500 feet above, extending for many miles, affording a most extended view ; or, up to the natural springs on the side of the mountain, which furnish the town with water, bubbling up like a fountain, and is caught in a large basin or pond, for city use. A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- nica Canyon to Manville Glen^a wild, rugged mountain-place covered with old forest trees, down which ripples one of the neatest little brooks imaginable. The point of the mountain above has become a very popular camping giound, where camps are made, and parties spend months ill rambling over the mountains and en- joying the ocean baths, etc. '^ here are some beautiful countjy resi- dences about Santa Monica, among which is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. Returning to L(^ Angeles, we take the Wilmington Division — and start di- rectly south tiirough a succession of vine- yards, gardens, orange and fiuit orchards, to Florence, six miles from Los Angeles. At this station the ti-ack of the San Diego Division branches off to the left. But we continue south, through broad, well-culti- vated fields, where the good eftects of irri- gation are shown, by large crops of vege- tables, which abound in the tection we are now traversing. Gradually the rich soil gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of bhi ep on the more elevated lands. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 223 About two miles before reaching Wil- mington, we pass, on the right, embowered in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- tary Department, of Southern California and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When the Government had no further use for the property it was sold, and is now used by the Protestants, and called Wilson's College. Wilmington contains a population of about 500, most of whom are engaged in the shipping interests. At the long wharf are great warehouses, beside which, vessels drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and load and unload from and into the cars of the railroad, which run the whole length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water can cross the bar, two miles below, but are unable to reach the wharf, and are unloaded two miles below. Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- fectly sheltered, several miles in length, with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, shoaling at its head to 12 feet. The Government has expended over half a million of dollars to improve the harbor at this place; the breakwater is 6,700 feet long, and when completed, it will be of incalculable advantage to the people of this section of country. Wilmington is a point where immense quantities of ties and redwood lumber are landed from the Humboldt Bay country, 200 miles north of San Francisco, on the coast, and also where are landed large quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- sels that come here to load with grain. The coal is brought for ballast, more than for profit. Rattlesnake Island is in front of the har- bor — sand principally San Pedro Point is two miles south, and Point Fermin, around that point to the west, reached by wagon-road around the beach or over the bluffs, six miles distant. Deadman's Island is a small,isolated rocky peak, where commences the breakwater improvement below Point Pedro. Fermin Point is on the most prominent headland on the west, surmounted with a light of the first order, [which is kept by two ladies.] Near this point, in stone^ is the subject of our illustration, below, called San Pedro's Wife or the " Woman OF THE Period." The distance from Wilmington by steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles ; to San Diego, 95 miles; to Santa Catalina Island, 20 miles. This Island is owned by the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten wide, on which are some gold mines, and great numbers of sheep and goats. SAN Pedro's wife or, the woman of the period. 224 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOUKIST \ The Island San Clemente is 30 miles further, a lon^, narrow strip of land, on which there is no water, where range thousands of sheep and goats, which seem to thrive better than on Santa Catalina Island, where water is abundant. Returning again to Los Angeles, we start over the l^an I>iego DiTision. Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the same as over the Wilmington route to Florence, six miles south, vhere our route turns to the left. Leaving Florence, we cross the Los Angeles River, along which are some broad, rich bottom lands, passing large groves of eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to Downey — This is a thrifty town of agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with some good buildings. The Central Hotel is the principal hotel. The country is flat, and vineyards and orange orchards are to be seen at different places, over which the waters of San Gabriel River are con- ducted in numerous canals and ditches Leaving the station, we soon cross San Gabriel River, note the existence of many sycamore trees, some oaks and many " Gum-trees," and four miles are at NoRWALK— This is a new station, in the center of a broad fertile valley, with only the smaller portion under cultivation Con- tinuing on, over a grassy plain, where are a few trees, and a few alkali beds, we pass Costa, 6.3 miles from Korwalk, and roll along through an improving country The La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. From Costa it is 8.6 miles to Anaheim — Here we are at a live town of 1,500 population, which, from the car win- dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with its long 1 ows of trees and beautiful fields. A run through the town will reveal the fact that it contains many fine buildings, some of which are devoted to merchandis- ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two good hotels — the Planters and the Anaheim, and one newspaper— the Gazette. The town is embowered in foliage ; tall poplar trees, cypress, eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor bean, palm and many other trees are among the number seen everywhere. Here we find extensive irrigating canals and a complete netrwork of ditches, con- ducting the water through the streets and over the grounds in all directions, A great number of the private residences arc painted white, (not a very common thing in California,) and look very cheerful. Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot- tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a long bridge, pass Orange, a small hamlet on the left — where is a grove of planted trees — and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two miles further come to Santa Ana — This town is 33.3 miles southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a mile west of the depot, where is now the end of the road, and where a town is being, laid off, called East Santa Ana. Santa Ana is situated about one and half miles south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- heim, is embowered in trees and sur- rounded by vineyards, orchards and the best of land, under a high state of cultiva- tion. There are some large stores in the town and good brick buildings, several fine churches, good schools, three hotels — chief of which IS the Santa Ana Hotel — one daily and two weekly newspapers; the News and the Times are weekly, and the Free Lance is a small, live daily. Newport Landing is eight miles west of Santa Ana, where most of the steamers call, on their way up and down the coast. A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana to the Landing, and also extends eastward to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The road was built by the counties of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The new Black Star coal mines are sit- uated about twelve miles northeast, and are said to be extensive and the coal of good quality. To the east is the high range of the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on the eastern slope of which are located the Temescal Tin mines. Some of the lands surrounding Santa Ana and to the south and west for many miles, called " safe lands," will raise a good crop without irrigating, but the greater portion requires the water — to supply which a company is now engaged building a canal to take the waters of the Santa Anna River away to the eastward. The canal will be 18 miles long, and will furnish ample water for 20,000 acres of land. Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan Capistrano, southeast 24 miles ; fare $2.50 ; San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, $5.00; also to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- mediate points. San Diego — As this is reached from Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and stage, it seems to be the proper place for a short description of the town. San Diego AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 225 was first settled by the Jesuit missionaries, in 1769, and is tlie oldest town in the State. It is a port of entry, and the county seat of San Diego county. It is situated on San Diego Bay, which, for its size, is the most sheltered, most secure and finest harbor in the world. The bay is 12 miles long and two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- tom. By act of Congress, it is the western terminus of the Texas & Pacific railroad, but wlien that road will be built, if ever, is a problem, the solution of which, all the citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- ber, are exceedingly anxious to have demonstrated, and there is little question but what they would all elect to have it built without delay. The city is connected by steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to all inland towns. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line be- tween Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or rising above 80 deg. ia the summer. The country is well timbered and well watered, producing large crops of all kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have recently been discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and profitable. Several quartz mills have been erected. Two weekfy papers are pub- lished at San Diego — the World and Union. San Juan Capistrano, is a quiet, sleepy, conservative old town, twenty-four miles from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three sides, in a variegated frame-work of emerald hills, with the broad Pacific Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of burnished gold at sunset: Here is located the old mission, which gave its name to the town. It was founded in 1776, and is situated on an eminence, commanding a view of the surroiinding country, with ex- tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive and other trees, planted nearly 100 years ago, which continue to bear abundantly. To the south of the town is the Rancho Boca de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Rancho Neguil, of 12,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- tural land, but now the greater portion is used for pasturage. Gospel Swamp — This singularly pro. ductive region is situated a few miles north of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is very similar to that about the "Mussel Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. The soil is wholly composed of the richest sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of vegetable matter that has been going on since the creation of the world. In this section, all kinds of vegetables attain im. mense proportions, so large that we dare not give the figures. This isthe pumpkin's Aom«. Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 lbs. are not uncommon in this region. A single vine produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins without any further care than putting the seed in the ground— and it was a poor year for pumpkins at that. Corn is the prmci- pal crop, in gathering which they find much diflSculty, owing to the height of the stalks. If some enterprising Yankee would invent a portable elevator with a graduated seat and revolving buckets for holding the ears of corn, he could find in this section an extensive field in which to operate. Returning once more to Los Angeles, and for the l^st fime, we take our old seat, and start for Sunrise, at Yuma. See Time Table, Leaving Los Angeles, our course is south about one mile— on the track we have been over several times— then to the left, and finally due east, crossing the Los Angeles River, just beyond which is the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and follow up a little valley. On the right are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around which are many little cottages nestling cosily beneath a wreath of foliage, consist- ing of orange and other fruit-trees. We are now on an ascending grade, and shall continue to be, for the next 80 miles. To the left, about four miles, is located Pasadena — (Key of the Valley) — quite commonly known as the " Indiana Colony," a new and beautiful settlement northeast from Los Angeles about seven miles, and three miles from the old mission of San Gabriel. • Five years ago this position was occupied only by the one adobe house of a Spaniard, Garfias, who once owned the ranche. A company of eastern men, largely from Indiana, purchased the tract, with an abundant water privilege arising in the Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one of the sub-divided tracts of 7^, 15 or 30 acres each was taken within a year by actual settlers, and these, almost without 226 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST exception,easternfamilies of the high- est class and of comfortable means. Young orange orchards, just com- mencing to bear, now form the princi- pal feature of the town ; its abundant mountain water is distributed to hy- drants, bath-rooms and fountains in and about each house ; the dry-bed of the Arroyo, on its western edge, fur- nishes abundant wood; the Sierra Madra or San Fernando range bounds and guards its northern side, and its site overlooks the whole San Gabriel yalley. The Lake Vineyard Ass'n has more recently opened up a fine tract, bor- dering Pasadena on the east, and the two settlements, now blending into one, have some seventy houses, many of them very handsome, a Presbyteri- an and aMethodistchurchjtwo school houses, stores, shops and a daily mail. Not alone those who have their pretty homes and orange groves there think it the most desirable of all California's delightful spots, but unprejudiced travelers, who have seen the whole,ac- knowledge that here, indeed, as its Spanish name asserts,isthe"fcet/o/#r tell! but ask Butler, freight agent at Coltou, to show you his mhiU owl—iVi a great curiosity. Bernardino, four miles east ; fare, 50 cents ; to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 cents. The Riyerside Colony — is located on 8,000 acres of the best agricultural land in the State, most of which is under irri- gating ditches, and is in a very thriving condition ; in fact, it is the most prosper- ous, wealthy, and successful colony on the Pacific coast. Land that in 1868 was worth but a few dollars per acre, now would sell readily for from $100 to $150 per acre — verily^ this country is tTie poor man^a paradise, — and there are millions of acres full as good, now unoccupied, awaiting his advent. HBJk Bern ardiiio— four miles east, and 61 miles east of Los Angeles, is the county seat of San Bernardino county, the largest in the State. It was settled by a colony of Mormons in 1847, and the town laid out in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with water running through all the principal streets from a never-failing supply obtained from numerous springs and creeks, in, and coming down from the San Bernardino Mountains on the east, close to the base of which, the town is located. All the Mor- mons now living here are " Josephites," Brigham, some years since, having called home to Salt Lake all who were devoted to him. The town contains a population of about 6,000, most of whom are engaged in fruit raising and agricultural pursuits. Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, gardens, and groves, are the rule, and, alto- gether, it is a very beautiful town. San Bernardino is on the old trail, through the Cajon Pass, to the mining regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of little use. The valley of San Bernardino contains 36,000 acres. Crops of all kinds grow in this valley. Much of the land produces two crops a year — barley for the first, and corn for the second; of the former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six crops a year are grown. Six miles north of San Bernandino are "Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs are said to be almost a sure cure for the rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the valley, and 1,800 above sea level. Near San Bernardino are the Mountains, — East, the most prominent peak of which is 8,750 feet above sea level. Returning to Colton, another engine is attached to our train, and we proceed to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 229 climb the San Gorgonio Pass ; so we bid adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful fruit orchards, the luscious vineyards, and the glorious climate of California, as we shall see no more of those attractions on this trip. " Fare-thee-well, and if forever, still, forever fare-thee-well." Leaving Colton, we cross Santa Anna River, and 3.4 miles from Colton come to Mound City, a signal station, with an elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on each side. Sheep are the only things of life now noticeable. Eleven miles further comes £1 Casco — another signal station, sit- uated in a ravine extending to the Pass. Up this ravine the average grade is 80 feet to the mile; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are now in a section where large quantities of peaches are raised. Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 feet, at ISan Gorgon io— There are some good agricultural lands near, when irri- gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the water from the mountains to the northeast, twelve miles distant, for that purpose. To the west, seven miles, is the great Ban Jacinto Nueva Rancho, containing 47,000 acres. This property is now being Bub-divided into 10, and|20 acre farms, and sold on easy terms. We have visited the Rancho and are free to say the greater por- tion is a soil fully as rich and productive as any in the State, easily irrigated where necessary, from the San Jacinto River which runs through the property, or by wells ; abundance of water being obtained within from five to twenty feet of the surface. From this station it is down grade for 6.2 miles to Banning, a signal station, and 5.7 miles more brings us to Cabazon — (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), which means "Big Head," named for a tribe of Indians who live in this country ; elevation, 1,779 feet. We are now in the Coahulian Valley. To the right are the San Jacinto Mountains, covered with timber. From Cabazon it is 8.5 miles to White Water, an unimportant signal station, 1,126 feet altitude, where we enter the cac tus and desert country, and from which station it is 7.5 miles to Seven Palms— elevation 584 feet. Fh'S station was named for seven large palm trees, situated about one mile north of the station. They are from 40 to 60 feet in height, with very large, spreading tops. The water at this station is the first and best on the west side of the desert, and iu the dajrs when emigrants traveled this route with teams, it was one of the points looked forward to with much pleasure. From this station to Dos Palmas, a little over 50 miles, the palm trees are abundant Indio— is 20.8 miles from Seven Palms, with a depression of just twenty feet below sea-level. The palm trees along here are many of them 70 feet in height. W hen we commenced to descend below the sea level, three miles before reaching Indio, we left the sand-belt and entered a region more adapted for agricultural purposes, strange as it may seem. The cactus grows luxu- riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms cover the face of the laud. From this point we descend lower and lower at every rsvolution of the wheels, down, down under the sea! Methinks we can see the huge ships sailing over our heads, and many of the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast wistfully down upon us ; then we think of Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as he did ; then, along comes the freebooter, Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our measure with a knowing wink of his left fin — he rises to the surface as though to get a fresh breath and a better start for a grand dive, looking as hungry as a New York landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago drummer, and as "cheeky" as some of the literary thieves who pirate information from our book, without giving credit. In some points of the depression, where we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, fresh water can be obtained by sinking from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- tion is very luxuriant ; mesquite, iron-wood, arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and other woods and shrubs abound. Further to the south, from Walters to Flowing Wells, a distance of over 40 miles, the country is completely barren, in fact, is a "howling wilderness." Through this section, the water obtained by digging is very salt The beach surrounding this depression is 40 feet above high water ; the lines are the same noticeable around any salt beach, the pebbles laying in rows, away around the different water-lines, as though left but yesterday by the receding waters. Marine and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent to its being a part of the ocean. Walters— is 13.3 miles from Indio, 230 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST where passenger trains meet and pass. At this point we are 135 feet below the level of the sea, and still going down. Ten miles further and we are 266 feet below; gradually we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 miles from Walters, are at ]>os l*alilias— only 253 feet below. From .Dos Palmas, desolation reigns sii- preme, and 10.9 miles brings us to Fink'is Sprinss — Here we are seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas, being 260 feet below; alittle further it will be 263 feet, when we commence to rise. Five miles south, are twenty-five square miles of mud springs. The first is about 100 yards east of the road, and is cold. Then to the right, from one to six miles, are many springs, both hot and cold. Some are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as though in a huge caldron, just on a level with the ground. Others are smaller, cone- ehaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. The mud in these springs is much the same consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up as in a pot, over a slow fire. The smell, coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, reminds one of a region of which our modern teachers deny the existence. The railroad track does not cross this depression in the lowest place, as an area west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half feet lower. This has been called a Vol- canic country. There are no signs that would indicate it ever to have been dis- turbed by volcanic eruptions, except the presence of the mud springs ; on the con- trary, most ot the rocks surrounding this "basin for fifty miles are granite, which is unusual in a volcanic section of countiy. What few rocks there are here, that are not granite, show no appearance of volcanic matter. Spurs of San Bernardino Mountains have been on our left, up to this point, after which they dwindle to small, isolated sand hills, here and there. Floiving Well— is the next station, 17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have risen, so that we are now only 45 feet below 8ea level. At this station the Railroad Co. sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, and got an abundance of water, through a six-inch pipe, but it was too salt for use. Six miles further we pass Tortus a — a signal station, 188 feet altitude, and 6 miles further come to Mammotli Tank — so named from a Jiatural water tank in the granite rocks on the left, five miles distant, which holds 10,000 gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always has water in it. It is said there are several hundred va- rieties of cactus on this desert, and we are ready to admit the statement without hunt- ing further proof than what can be seen from the car window. They are here, of all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles further, we come to another signal station called Mesquite— so named because there is no mesquite near or in the immediate vi- cmity. Next comes — 13.8 miles — Cactns— elevation, 396 feet, named for a variety of cactus called "ocotilla," which grows in great numbers, near. To the east, from this station, can be seen Chimney Peak— a conglomerate rock —a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which rises from the summit of some low hills, 700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- tains. They are on the east side of the Colorado River, from the summit of which rises Castle Dome, a ^anite column, 500 ifeet above the mountain range, which pre- sents the appearance of a monster, square, liatrroofed building, but which in reality, is a long, narrow column, when viewed from a point to the southward of the Dome. Mesquite, sage, and grease-wood shrubs are now to be seen on all sides. Directly ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot Knob, on the east side of which are located some lead mines. This butte is just seven miles north of the Mexican boundary line. Passing on 13.6 miles, we come to a signal station, called Pilot Knob — From here, our course changes a little more to the eastward, and we soon come in view of the Colorado River, with a wide, sandy botton covered with willows and mesquite. From Pilot Knob it is 9.4 miles to Yuma, about five of which brings to us the first view of the river, and the next four to the west end of the bridge. To the left, before crossing the bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, occupied by about one dozen "boys in blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking the surrounding country. To the right, on the opposite side of the river, on a high bluff, is located the Quartermaster's De- partment. Crossing the bridge, which haa a draw for river boats, and through a deep cut, we are in Arizona, and at Yuma City — This is unlike any city we have heretofore visited. It contains a population of about 1,500, one-fifth of AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 231 whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, Mexicans, and natives— Indians. The buildings are all one story high, made of sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls being from two to four feet thick, with flat roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of poles, covered with willows, sometimes a covermg of cloth, or rawhide beneath them, and then covered with dirt to a thick- ness of from one to two feet. On all sides of these houses verandas project from ten to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, some with dirt, others with only the brush. These verandas are built for protection against the powerful rays of the sun. In summer the heat is intense; often the mercury marks 126, and once, some years ago, we learn from a reliable authority, it was 130 degrees in the shade. As might be supposed, snow and frost are unknown in Yuma. In summer, the American, Spanish and Mexican residents wear as little clothing as possible, while the native Indians' covering, will not exceed the size of a small pocket handkerchief, adjusted in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes a long trailing strip of red material dang- ling from the rear belt, a la monkey. In the hot weather, which is intense for about eight months in the year, the people sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered by the drapery furnished by nature — darkness. Yuma, with all its varieties of citizens, is a very orderly city The great majority of the people are Koman Catholics, that denomination having the only church building in the city There are a few stores, with quite extensive stocks of goods. The hotels are not very extensive, such only in name ; the Palace and Colorado are the two principal ones. Yuma has one weekly newspaper —the Sentinel. Most of the Spanish and Mexican houses are surrounded with high fences, made of poles, set in the ground close together, to a depth of three or more feet, and secured together about four feet from the ground, with narrow strips of rawhide interwoven, when soft, around and between the poles, so when the hide dries the fence is very strong. Many of these fences present a very ragged appearance, as the poles range in height from four to twelve feet above he ground. The more enterprising of thet people saw these poles off to a uniform height, when they present a much more artistic and finished appearance. The Railroad Company have large ware- houses here built of lumber, for the accom- modation of both the railroad and steamer business. The boats on the Colorado River are all owned by the Railroad Company, and are run in connection with the trains. Just above the railroad bridge, on the west bank of the Colorado River, is situ- ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of a mile in diameter, rising about 200 feet above the river bottom, and projecting into the Colorado River to meet a promon- tory of about the same height on the east side. Between these bold points flows the Colorado River, about 300 yards iu width. The Colorado River reaches this point from the northward, and the Gila (pro- nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a junction close above the points named. It is proposed by those managing the inter- ests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pacific railroad, to build a bridge across the Col- orado River at these blufls, some work of grading having been done in the fall of 1877, just previous to the locating of the present railroad bridge, a few hundred yards below. From the high butte above named, a view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the mesas, and the surrounding country for many miles. COLORADO RIYER STEAMERS. Passenger and freight steamers leave Yuma for Aubry, during the summer sea- son, weekly, commencing the first Saturday in May and continuing until the last of Oc- tober, from that time until January follow- ing, they will leave every alternate Satur- day. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave every fifth Wednesday, commencing about the middle of January. These steamers run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to the last of October (stage of water permit- ting). Distance from Yuma, per river steamer, to Castle Dome, 35 miles, fare, $5.00; Eherenberg, 125 miles, fare, $15.00; Au- bry, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mo- hava, 300 miles, fare, $35.00 ; Hardyville, 312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 365 miles, fare, $45.00 The Colorado river is the largest in Ari- zona. Its principal tributaries are the Grand River, which rises in the Middle Park of Colorado, and the Green River, which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. From the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, the stream is called the Col- 232 crofutt's new overland tourist orado, and with its windings has a length of 3,000 miles to where it enters the Gulf of California. It is navigable at all times about 500 miles, and in a season of high water about 150 miles further to Callville. The time is not far distant when a trip to theGrand Caiion of the Colorado will be one of the most attractive and popular in America — if not in the world. Along this caiion for nearly 300 miles the channel of the river has been cut through the moun- tain walls that rise up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the longest, highest and grandest caiion the eye of man ever beheld. Stages leave Yuma daily, carrying passengers, mail and express for Ca- stle Dome, 30 miles; Horse Tanks, 58 miles; Tyson's "Wells, 93 miles ; with branch line to Eherenberg, 28 miles further ; to Wickenburg, 128 miles, and Prescott, 193 miles ; average fare, 16 cents per mile. Leaving Yuma, our course is due east, with the GilaBiver on the left, or north side. The river bottom is from two to five miles in width and covered with white sage, greasewood, mes- quite shrubs, willows, small cotton- woods and some ironwood. The soil is a mixture of loam, sand and clay, with alkali beds in places. Very little of the land is cultivated, yet there are a few Mexican or Spanish settlers, who "tickle the ground" a little within the first ten miles after leaving Yuma. Their irrigating ditches are crossed in a number of places, and we are told the vegetables and early wheat raised are very good. On the north side of the river, five miles away, a Spanish settler has a large ranche, which is quite productive. About ten miles east of Yuma, the bluffs on each side close in on the riv- er,and our road is built through a suc- cession of rocky points or spurs which extend to the river bank. To the right or south side our view is wholly ob- structed ; but to the northward, be- yond the river, the country is very much broken with canons and ravines coming down from the high rocky bluffs which overtop each other in the distance, some of which must reach an altitude of 1,500 ft. above the valley. A few miles through rock cuttings and our train will reach the river bank and afford us a view of Los Flo- res, a small mining camp on the north side of the river, the "drifts" showing plainly. A two-stamp mill is the ex- tent of the machinery used. Gila City— is 15.7 miles east of Yuma, inhabited principally by Papa- go Indians, with a small sprinkling of whites, most of whom are engaged in "dry washing" for gold in the caiions and ravines south of the station. The gold is fine and not very abundant. Leaving the station, within a few miles we will see the first of a kind of cactus peculiar to Arizona. It is cer- tainly the "Boss" cactus of the world. (See Annex No. 55 and page 235.) Leaving Gila City, the country is more open, the river bottom is sever- al miles broad, and covered with small cottonwoods, willows, and under- brush; much of this land would pro- duce crops with irrigation, but the riv- er could not be depended upon to sup- ply the water at the time it would be required. By looking away to the southward, the first glimpse is obtained of a pecu- liar sharp needle-pointed rocky butte. which in general formation is found in our travels only on the Gila Des- ert, where they are very numerous. These buttes are of volcanic for- mation, completely isolated, many of No. 3S Annex. Cape Hr>rn — is a bold promontory, situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia River, in Washington Territory, about midway between the Cascade Mountains and the Dalles, This promontory is of basaltic formation —like most others on the Columbia— and rises near 250 ft. pei-pendiuclar from the water's edge, and extends about one mile in length, the lower part projecting several hundred feet out into the river. Cape Horn derives its name from the dan- ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 10, represents a small party of pleasure and curios- ity seekers on a pleasant afternoon, when the winds had lulled, who have successfully rounded the capo. Xo. 39 Annex. Wood ffaulina: in Ne- vada — No. 11, of the large views, is a beautiful engraving, representing a ten-mule team loaded with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- gether like a train of cars — called "trail wagons" on which are loaded twenty-four cords of wood, At the point represented in the picture, the team is about on the dividing line between Gold Hill, down the canyon to the rear of the wagons, one- fourth mile— and Virginia City, directly ahead, about the same distance around the ijoint of the mountain. This plan of coupling wagons is quite common on the Pacific Coast for all kinds of heavy hauling. The picture was engraved by Mr. Bross, of New York, from a photograph. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 233 INDIANS WATCHING THE "FIRE WAGONS."— SEE ANNEX Na 49. which rise abruptly from the plain to an altitude of 2,000 feet. In color, they vary from dark brown to black, and in general appearance resembling iron slag. Some of these buttes take the form of narrow "hog-back" ranges, very sharp, and very steep, extending several miles. The view between the buttes or ridges are on a level with the plain and extend as far as the eye can reach ; where they overlap each* other the appearance is like one continuous range. From Gila City, it is 14 miles to Adonde — a side track station, with one building, several tents and a big water tank. The railroad company have to haul all the water they use, on the first 150 miles of their road east of Yuma, in water-cars, from either Adonde or the the Colorado Eiver at Yuma. The wa- ter from theColorado is preferred over that from Adonde, as the latter is strongly impregnated with alkali. Leaving Adonde we leave the Gila River far to the left, and will soon re- alize that we are fairly out upon a vast expanse of desert, inhabited solely by rattlesnakes, lizards and owls, with an occasional woodpecker. Sage knolls, ironwood, raesquite, grease- wood, clay, and sand— the latter very heavy— is now the rule, with an occa- sional bunch of white calette grass. The surrounding peaks are now prom- inent in all directions, on both sides of the river; many on the north side are castellated and of a peculiar som- bre appearance. Passing several buttes close on the left,— between our train and the river —the largest of which is known as An- telope Peak, and along over a sandy waste, we approach Mohawk Summit, 26 miles from Adonde, but there is no station, no signs of life. This summit is simply a low pass in one of those long, rocky, narrow ridges which here runs north and south, across our path. Just before reaching the summit our road is bridged over a dry sandy de- pression, which apparently, was once the bed of a broad stream of water. Along the banks are many trees, among which we notice the Paloverde, 234 ceofutt's new overland tourist with its smooth, bright yellow bark, otherwise much resembling the ma- drone tree heretofore described. Iron- wood is also to be seen as well as the '*boss" cactus, in great numbers. For description, see Annex, No. 55, and il- lustration opposite page. To the east of the summit, the evi- dences to prove that this country was once lighted by volcanic fires, are abundant. The whole surface of the country is covered or underlaid with lava. It crops out in every ravine, and at every cutting. Where the lava is exposed to the air, it is soft, and readily broken in pieces in the hands. By the action of the wind and rain much of the surface lava has become reduced to dust which covers the ground ; disagreeable at all times, but when wafted by a Gila zephyr is ter- ribly annoying. Texas Hill— is 7.6 miles east of the summit — a side track, and section house now comprises the station. Con- tinuing eastward, the general appear- ance of the country is unchanged, ex- cept as to its volcanic evidences which are more noticeable. Stan-wix— is an unimportant side- track 22.7 miles east of Texas Hill. The Gila Eiver is here about 10 miles to the northward, the bottom lands of which, as we ascend the river are im- proving, and with irrigation, raise good crops of wheat and vegetables. H^entinel — is another side track 4.6 miles from the last, but it is a lone Sentinel, opposite the place on the river where the Oatman family were murdered by the Tonto Indians in 1851. A run of 13.9 miles brings us to Painted Bock— so named for the noted land mark on the north side of the river. Called by the natives "Pe- dras Pintados." (See Annex, No. 48.) Gila Bend — is 13.9 miles from Painted Kock— and derives its name from its location near the great bend of the Gila Eiver, and from an old stage station of the same name, a few miles to the northward. The appear- ance of the country bordering the line of Eailroad— since crossing the San BarnardinoMountains— up^ to this sta- tion, in an agricultural point of view — particularly, to an east-of-the Mis- souri Eiver farmer— is not very en- couraging. Yet, with irrigation^ there are millions of acres of productive lands. At this "bend" of the GilaEiver, we strike the edge of one of the rich- est and finest bodies of land in Arizo- na—but it must be irrigated— and the Gila affords abundance of water for that purpose. "With a proper system of canals and wind-mills, oranges, lemons, vineyards, nuts, and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical cereals, can be raised in abundance ;— and, within our knowledge— we know of no section of the trans-Missouri country where a more promising opportunity for the investment of capital in a safe, legitimate, and growing business, than is here indicated. Wood is a scarce article in many parts of Arizo- na—but is plentiful about Gila Bend and along the river bottoms,— which, in a country devoid of coal, is an item of no small consequence. Continuing eastward, the side track of EsTERELLA is 18.8 milcs, and 18.2 miles more to Maricopa— where the first through train from San Francisco arrived May 12th, 1879. This town of Maricopa, lo-~ ^ cated as it is in the center of great mineral wealth, the distributing point for a vast region of country— north and south of it —is destined at an ear- ly day, to become one of prominence. It now contains several large mercan- tile houses, hotels, restaurants, etc. The Eailroad Co. have a good depot, and a large freight building for the ac- commodation of the great amount of merchandise arriving here for distant points— mostly to the northward,— Phoenix, Vulture, Wickenburg, Pres- cott, etc. Ores and bullion are also received here as return freight, for shipment to San Francisco and the east. Between Gila City and Maricopa there are few buildings, except those used by the Eailroad Company. The "section houses" are all alike, built of lumber with double, or sun roofs. The upper roof is supported by upright timbers and is elevated about two feet above the lower roof, over which it extends, on all sides, about four feet. The space between the roofs al- lows the air to circulate freely, and to a great extent protects the occupants of the buildings against the powerful heat of the sun, which often, in the cbofutt's new ovebland tourist summer, marks 115 to 130 degrees on these plains. The old stage station of Maricopa Wells is situated about ten miles to the northward, on the Gila Biver, and not far distant is the Gila Indian Re- servation, where live the Pima and Maricopa Indians, numbering 4,328. This reservation contains 70,000 acres of as rich and productive lands as there is in the Territory, much of which is cultivated by the Indians, who are self sustaining. For interesting historical matters regarding Arizona, see Annex, No. 64. Distances : Maricopa to Yuma, 156 miles ; Tucson, 91 miles ; San Francis- co, 887 miles ; El Paso, 399 miles ; Phoe- nix, 35 miles. Vulture, 90 miles ; Wick- enberg, 90 miles ; Prescott, 152 miles. Stages leave daily with passengers, mails and express for Phoenix, Pres- cott and intermediate places— fare, about seventeen cents per mile. The general direction of our road from Maricopa changes from the east to the south-east for the next 140 miles, when it again turns to the eastward. From Maricopa it is 14.9 miles to a side track called Sweet Watee, and 11.1 miles further to Casa Grande— this like all rail- way stations, when they are at the "end of the track," was a very busy place.— Temporary wooden buildings, canvass tents, and shanties of all kinds, and for all purposes, were scat- tered in all directions ; immense quan- tities of railroad material of every de- scription covers many acres of land ; J)onderous "prairie schooners" were oading merchandise for distant points while others were unloading ores and bullion; stage coaches with passen- gers, mails and express were leaving and arriving loaded to their utmost ; and people of every nationality, color, dress and occupation, were to be seen on every side intent on some kind of business. Such was Casa Grande January 1st, 1880. But when the road was extended it settled down as a shipping point for the mining region to the northward — and only such buildings remain as are necessary for that business. This station is named for the old ruin of Casa Grande, situated about 14 miles to the northward. (See An- nex, No. 47.) The general features of the country along the road for the last fifty miles, in an agricultural point of view, is much improved ; sage, grease wood, and mesquite trees, together with grasses of various kinds, cover the face of the land ; while herds of cattle, sheep and horses are not uncommon. Stages leave Casa Grande daily for Florence, 25; and Silver King, 57 miles; fare, about seventeen cents per mile. Toltec— is the next station "down on the bills," 9.6 miles from Casa Grande, and 9.1 miles from Picacho— a small station from which large quantities of coke, and merchandise is shipped on wagons for the mines, to the north- and east- ward. We are now following up the lower portion of the Santa Cruz Val- ley, along which there is no running water; but, judging from the rank growth of sage, mesquite, and grease- wood, which cover the land, it would not be a very difficult task to sink wells and find water sufficient for ir- rigating purposes. After a few miles run from Picacho station, we arrive opposite "Picacho Peak," a noted land-mark, and rocky butte on the right. It was here, at the base of this "peak" in May, 1862, where the first and only battle was fought in Arizona between the Confederate and Union forces. In the summer of 1861, the Union troops were withdrawn from this Territory, and on the 27th of Feb- ruary, following. Cap. Hunter of the Confederate forces arrived at Tucson, from Texas, and took possession; soon after the news reached San Francisco that the Confederates had control of Tucson, Genl. Carlton, of the Federals — Califoruia column — started for this Territory, and was met by the Confederates at this"peak" as above stated. The battle resulted in a victory for Genl. Carlton and the abandonment of the country by the Confederates. Red Rock— a side track— is 13.9 miles from Picacho, and 15.5 miles from BiLLiTo, another small station, on a little Creek of that name, 17.1 miles from Tac9on — pronounced Tu-son. -- Had we visited this place 322 years ago, we would have been classed with PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 237 the "Old Pioneers," instead of a '•tenderfoot" of 1882. Records show that Tucson is the second oldest town in the United States; Santa Fe, New Mexico, being the first. The first settlements were made by the Spaniards in 1560, and a presidio or fortification was con- structed to protect their settlement at San Xavier; and from the appear- ance of many of the old adobe build- ings, and the aged look of some of the citizens, we are not disposed to dispute the records, or doubt the fact that a f ewj at least, of the earlier sett- lers are still living. Tucson is the county seat of Pima county, situated on a me.sa or table land, gradually sloping to the west- ward—overlooking the Santa Cruz Valley— in lat, 32 deg. 20 min. north and long. 110 deg. 55 min. west of Greenwich. Elevation 2,239 feet. It is 978 miles from San Francisco ; 220 miles from Deming; 308 miles from El Paso, Tex. ; 75 miles north of the Mexican boundary; and 370 miles from Guaymas, Mexico. Sorin, in his sketch of Tucson says : "The Santa Cruz Eiveris one of those erratic streams, common in thisWest- ern Country, which run for a distance on the surface, then beneath the ground, again on top, and so on. In its strange course it so happens, that the river comes to the surface about two miles south of Tucson and runs past the mesa on which the town is built, and thus makes some thre^ thousand or more acres of land capa- ble of irrigation and consequently of cultivation. In this rich bottom years ago the old mission church of Tucson was built by the Jesuits, and to pro- tect the cultivators of the adjoining fields a presidio or military camp was established; and for self- protection incoming settlers congregated about the garrison and thus the town grew upon its present site." The City of Tucson was incorpora- ted February 7th, 1877, and the South- ern Pacific Railroad was completed to it, March 10th, 1880. Its present popu- lation is estimated between 8,000 and 9,000; composed of Spanish, Mexican, Indian, American, and English speak- ing people. The streets are regularlv laid out, are narrow with the usual Mexican Plaza. In the older portion of the city the buildings are con- structed of adobe, one story, in the old Spanish-Mexican style (where one goes out of doors to get into each room) with an occasional one of wood, sandwiched in here and there, and oc- cupied by the most enterprising busi- ness men,— or more recent arrivals— those who come with the Railroad. The business portion of Tucson, is about half a mile west of the depot, between which,and the depot are some fine private residences of wood, one large hotel— Porter's — commodious depot and freight buildings, and many other modern structures in course of erection. The Railroad Co. have a round-house and quite extensive ma- chine and repair shops located here. The city supports three daily news- papers, the Citizen, Star, and the Journal, besides several weeklies. Gas, Water, and Street Railroad Companies have been chartered and the present prospects are, that the citizens of Tucson Will soon be able to enjoy all those luxuries. There are quite a number of hotels, principal of which are Porter's at the depot, and the Palace, at the old town. There are two banks ; three flouring mills ; two breweries ;two ice manufactories ; one foundry and machine shop; six churches and church organizations; four schools — public and private; eight wholesale dry goods houses; sixty-six dry goods and grocery stores and the usual number of shops of all kinds found in a city of the size. As a law-and- order-city, Tucson has few equals. The carrying of weapons and drunkenness is severely punished by fine and imprisonment. The United States Depository for the District of Arizona and the United States Custom House, and the Deputy Collector of Internal Revenue, as well as the Surveyor Gen'l Office of Arizo- na, is located here. There are about 3000 acres of land in the vicinity of Tucson susceptible of irrigation ; but it is all taken up and title can only be had by purchase from private individuals. The valley of Santa Cruz, in which most of the land referred to is located, is very rich, and with irrigation, capable of pro- ducing two crops annually— corn in crofutt's new overland tourist the spring and wheat in the fall. Game is not abundant in the vicinity of Tucson, but bear, deer, antelope and wild turkeys can be found in the foot-hills and mountains. The road south from Tucson, along up the Santa Cruz Valley, has been for near 300 years the great highway between Mexico and Arizona, leading directly to the harbor of Guaymas. We understand a plan is now matur- ing by capitalists, to parallel this old road with iron rails and the time is not far distant, in the nature of things, when this route will be traversed by the "Iron Horse." Eesorts,— in and around the city :— Silver Lake, is southwest of the city, half a mile distant; is caused by a dam in the Santa Cruz Eiver, and ex- tends over several acres ; a race-track is adjacent. Boats, bath-houses, swimming baths, groves, pavilions, hotels, etc., are provided for the ac- commodation of visitors. Levin's Park— situated on the west side and near the heart of the city, in a grove of cottonwoods, seven acres in extent, in which are located a the- atre, music pavilion, billiards, bowl- ing, bar, baths, brewery, restaurant, shooting gallery, etc., and is patron- ized, at times, by all classes. San Xavier del Bag— is an old mis- sion — nine miles south of the city, in Santa Cruz Yalley, over 100 years old, erected by the Jesuits, for the purpose of saving the souls of the Papago In- dians. Travelers visiting Tucson usu- ally take a run down to this old mis- sion — where, strange as it may seem — the Mexicans are wont to congre- gate at certain seasons of the year, to witness bull-fights that take place in the vicinity. Aqua Calient a— Mineral warm springs — are situated l-i miles east of the city at the foot of the Mountains, and are said to possess medical quali- ties. The water is 88 degrees Fahren- heit, and contains soda, magnesia, iron and sulphur. Cottages and am- ple hotel accommodations are pro- vided for the public. Camp Lowell— Military headquar- ters for the Arizona— is seven miles east from the city, and is much visited by the citizens of Tucson. The mountain system as viewed from Tucson is quite extensive. To the east, and north-east, is the jagged mountain range of SantaCatarina, ris- ing from the plain, about twelve miles from the city, to the height of near 2,000 feet. Turning to the south, the Santa Kitas, boldly appear in a succes- sion of peaks, the highest, Mt. Wright- son, over 10,000 feet above the plain, from twenty-five to 'fifty miles dist- ant ; while more to westward, can be seen the Atacoso Mountains, at the base of which is located the old town of Tubac, and the old mission of Tu- macacori. Returning to the immedi- ate vicinity o£ the city, the Sierra Del Tucson— clos^ the view to the west- ward, rising from just across the val- ley, completing one of the most beau- tiful and interesting landscapes of mountain and plain ; which with the wonderous hues of Arizona's gorgeous sunsets, completes a picture that none but the hand of the Great Maker can produce. Stages leave Tucson as follows: Arivaca, 65 miles, and Oro Blanco, 77 miles — three times a week — Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Tubac, 60 miles, and Calabasas, 67 miles, twice a week — Tues. and Sat. Silver Hill, 46 miles, and Silver Bell, 55 miles, twice a week— Mon. and Thurs. Old Hat District, 45 miles, three times a week, Mon. , Wed . and Fri. Fort Low- ell, 9 miles, and San Xavier, 7 miles- daily. Magdalena, 130 miles, Hermo- sillo, 275 miles, and Guaymas, 370 miles,, twice a week — Tues. and Sat. *Altar, 150 miles, and Guaymas via Al- tar, 420 miles, twice a week— Mon. and Wed. Fare, from six to twenty cents per mile, varying with competition. The "life of trade" at Tucson, is de- rived from the mining industry. It is the great outfitting point for nearly every mining district in the territory, also,' for many of the mines and camps in Sonora. There are 29 mining dis- tricts within a radius of 100 miles from Tucson ; the greater number of which purchase all their supplies in that city. Some of the mines are exceed- ingly rich in gold, silver, lead and copper, and the rapid increase of precious metals is most wonderful. Wells, Fargo and Co's report of the yield for 1880, was $4,472,471 ; for 1881, $8,198,766, an increase, in one year, of PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 239 THE SANTA RITAS— NEAR MT. WRIGHTSON. $3,726,295. Arizona is not only rich in grecious metals, with a mild and ealthful climate, but is sufficiently dry and warm to convince the most skeptical in the authenticity of cer- tain old bible versions which shall be nameless in this connection. Suffice it to say, below we give the minimum and maximum of Eainfall and Tem- gerature, as recorded at the following ■overnment Forts and Camps in Ari- zona for a term of years : NAME. BAINFAIili. TEMPEBAT. Fort Yuma, (Yuma City) 3.84 inch. 35 to 112 deg. Fort Prescott, (Prescott) 27.09 " 10 to 91 " Fort Bowie 14.60 " 21 to 103 " Camp Lowell, (Tucson) . 10.83 " 19 to 113 " Camp Grant 22.54 " 16 to 109 " Camp Apache .13.21 " 6 to 104 " Camp McDowell 14.09 " 18 to 114" CampMojava 13.40 " 27 to 118 " Camp Verde 14.20 " 5toll3" Average 14.07 inch. 17 to 100 deg. But the hardy miner and prospector does not seem to give the weather a passing thought. We meet him every- where, going right along with his pockets full of "prospects," selling his claims ; buying his '%rub ;" punching his "burro," and taking a "smile" re- gardless of the weather or anything else. For Arizona items of interest, see Annex No. 64. Leaving Tucson, our course is south-east, over a broad plain cov- ered with sage, mesquite, and grease- wood, 14.6 miles to Papago, a small sidetrack station, from which we run up Rillito Creek 13.5 miles to Pantano — a small station of half a dozen buildings, and one store, be- sides good depot and freight build- ings. This is the nearest shipping point on the railroad for several im- portant mining districts, towns, and camps. Chief of which are: Total Wreck, 4 miles; Harshaw, 50 miles; Patagonia, 60 miles ; and Washington, 64 miles. Daily stages run to all these places ; fare, from 10 to 15 cents per mile. Since leaving Tucson, we have been climbing the world, and at Pantano are 1,297 feet higher, or 3,536 feet ele- vation. Mescal— is the next station, 9.3 miles from Pantano, and 8.6 miles from Benson— At present this is a lively place. It is situated in San Pedro Valley; elevation, 3.578 feet; and is the shipping jDoint for the celebrated Tombstone Mining District and many thrifty mining towns to the south- ward; several large stores and for- warding houses are located here; a hotel, several small shops', a large de- pot, and extensive freight ware houses together with an immense amount of 240 CBOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST railroad construction materials; as this is the initial point from which the Atchison. Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad Co. are building a railroad southward, some people say, to Guay- mas, onthe Gulf of California; but, we could procure no definite informa- tion. Certain it is, the road is com- pleted to Contention, 18 miles, and still going forward ; yet, at the time of our visit, Jan. 14th, 1882, no pas- senger trains were running; stages were leaving Benson daily for Con- tention. 18 miles, and Tombstone, 30 miles; fare, $2.00 and $3.00 respect- ively. Freight for the Mexican state of Sonora is forwarded from Benson, in immense quantities, the passenger travel is also an important item. San Pedro Valley is one of the rich- est stock raising portions of Arizona, grass being abundant, and water suf- ficient for that purpose. The lands are mostly owned by the Spanish- Mexican settlers, who are "like the dog in the manger," opposed to new comers,cultivating only small patches of ground and raising only what they need for their own subsistance. The Tombstone Mining District, has attracted more attention than any other in the territory. The principal mines of this district, lie about eight miles east of the San Pedro River, in alow cluster of hills, called the Tomb- stone Mountains. Sorin says : The region of country embraced in the Tombstone District, has long been known to contain min- eral. The first discovery of silver in this locality was at the "Old Bronco Mine," six miles southwest of Tomb- stone town. The exact date of the first location is not known, but the old Bronco mine has been worked in years gone by, and produced some good ore. There is a dark history connected with this mine, and it is said no less than sixteen men have been killed or murdered there. The discovery of the new mines was made in February, 1878, and the extra ordi- nary richness was soon noised abroad, and prospectors from all parts of the country nocked in and many hundred claims were recorded. There are four towns in the Tombstone District, Tombstone, Richmond, Charleston, and Contention. Tombstone, the prin- cipal town, is near the Tough- Nut group of mines, and is already a thriv- ing city of several thousand people. Richmond, about one and a half miles south of Tombstone, has a number of business houses. Charleston, on the San Pedro River, where the Tomb- stone and Corbin mills are located, is quite a thriving village of from 500 to 600 population. Contention City, is also on the San Pedro, nine miles be- low, at the Contention Mill, is an im- portant place, connected with Benson by railroad, and is growing rapidly. The principal ore producing mines m the district are: The Tough Nut group; the Lucky Cuss mine and group; Contention, Grand Central, Empire, Sunset, Emerald, and many others that prospect rich. Leaving Benson our direction changes to the northeast, and we commence to climb the Dragoon Mountains ; passing O- CHOA, a side-track in 9.7 miles, from which it is 9.4 miles more to Dragoon Sommit— altitude, 4,- 614 feet. This point is a natural pass, apparently designed by nature for a railroad, between the Dragoon Moun- tains, on the south, and the Limestone Mountains on the north ; the grade is easy and the work of grading was light. Reports, locate recent discov- eries of rich minerals in the moun- tains near this station. C/achise— is ten miles east of the summit, named for a noted Indian chief, who for twelve years was the head devil of the Apache Indians, and made'his headquarters in the moun- tains near. He believed that he and his -tribe had suffered great wrongs, and' most fearfully did he revenge them. He has been dead but a few years, and the remnant of his tribe are now eating at "Uncle Sam's" table on the San Carlos reservation. Descending into Sulphur Spring Valley, 10.8 miles from Cachise, we reach Willcox— a thriving town of about 250 population, situated in Sulphur Spring Valley, is the centre of trade for quite an extensive stock-raising and mining region. Altitude, 4,164 feet. The Dos Cabezas peaks, where some rich mines of gold and silver are being developed, are twelve miles southeast from this station. Camp PACIFIC COAST GUIIE. 241 Bowie, 20 miles. The valley, in which Willcox is situ- ated, extends north and south about 50 miles each way, and lies between the mountain ranges of Sierra Bonita and Chiricahua, on the east, and the Galinro and Dragoon on the west. The lower portion is called Sulphur Spring Valley, and the upper, Ariv- aypa Valley. There is no stream of note in these valleys, but along the base of the ranges of mountains and in the foot-hills are many fine springs and some brooks. The grass in and around these valleys is very rich and abundant; and it is recognised by stock men as one of the best stock ranges in the Territory. At several goints in the valley sulphur springs ave been discovered, and at one place deposits of salt cover several square miles. At Willcox, and in fact throughout the valley, an abundance of good water can bo obtained by dig- Sing wells from ten to fifteen feet in epth. Stages leave here, every other day, for Fort Grant, 24 miles ; Camp Tho- mas, 64 miles ; San Carlos, 99 miles, and Globe, 132 miles. Fares, about 15 cents per mile. From Willcox to Eailroad Pass, 8.3 miles, we ascend 230 feet, reaching an elevation of 4,394 feet, the highest point reached by the Southern Pacific Kail- road on its whole line. From this "pass," we descend 635 feet in the next 15.4 miles and arrive at Boirie— situated in the San Simon Valley, and at this time, prospects to soon becomjB a place of much import- ance. It is a regular dining station ; at the Campbell house, in front of which all through passenger trains stop, the accommodations for guests are first-class, and the meals served the best on the road. Water, for use at the station, is obtained from a well 300 feet in depth, but in many places in the valley it can be obtained from 25 to 75 feet. Thus, it will be readily understood that the San Simon Val- ley is not adapted to agriculture, and to only a limited extent for stock raising, wholly on account of the scarcity of water, as the soil is rich, and the rainfall at certain seasons, just sufiQcient to cover the whole face of the land with a coating of nutriti- ous grasses. This valley opens in New Mexico and extends in a north- western direction for near 100 miles to a junction with the Gila, affording a natural road-way from this station to the valleys and mining region in the northern part of the Territory. We understand a railroad is pro- jected down the San Simon Valley, with the coal fields of the San Carlos Indian Eeservation, as an objective point 100 miles distant, and that a stage line is soon to be put on this route which will reach Camp Grant in 28 miles ; Camp Thomas, 75 miles ; and Globe in 135 miles; already a large amount of freight is forwarded from Bowie for the towns. Gov, camps, and mines of this region. Fort Bowie, is 15 miles south, but we understand, it will be moved to near this station, at an early day. The Bowie Milling and Mining Co.. who own 70 gold and silver claims, ranging from four to fifteen milefi south, are about erecting at this sta • tion a 40 stamp mill to be run by electricity. From Bowie it is 15.7 miles to th^ small station of San Simon— from which a stage runs daily to Gayleyville, 22 milea» Fare, $4.00. The territorial line is crossed 10.& miles east from San Simon Statiou and 3.8 miles further we are at Steini§ Pass— altitude, 4,351. It i? reported, there are some good min- eral prospects near. From this sta- tion eastward to the Rio Grande River there are few objects of interest to the traveler. The face of the land is cov- ered with a rich growth of grass, but devoid of water, except an occasiona) little lake or sink strongly impreg- nated with alkali. Pyramid — a small station is reached in 15.1 miles, from which it i& 4.4 miles to IjOrdsburg- This is the shipping point for Clifton, a celebrated copper mining town, 80 miles to the north- west. Where are located large smelt- ing furnaces, turning out daily over a carload of bullion. Hydraulic works are also being erected to work placer claims in the vicinity. Stages leave Lordsburg Mondays and Thursdays, for Clifton. Fare, $10. crofutt's new overland tourist South fromLordsburg, two miles, is the little mining camp of Shakespeare, where is located a smelting furnace. The ores, gold and silver, are said to be rich. The altitude of Lordsburg is 4,245 feet. It is situated on a broad plain, and being devoid of water the Eail- road Company was compelled to dig for it. At a depth of 100 feet their boreing intrument entered a ledge of mineral, and followed it 500 feet. The assays, made in San Francisco, run from $50 to $3,700 per ton. After these facts became known to a few of the officials of the road, the necessary pa- pers were filed to secure the find ; wa- ter was ignored as a useless commod- ity and the "smile" of satisfaction pervading the countenances of these lucky — embroyo— nabobs— wa*s of that brilliant hue, which dispelled all thought of water for the future. This prospect was sold recently, to the ^'WallSt.Gold and Silver Mining Co.," for $2,000,000, who are now developing the property and erecting a stamp mill and smelting works near the sta- tion. Leaving Lordsburg, we pass the fol- lowing small stations: Lisbon, 10.7 miles; Separ, 9 miles; Wilna, 11,6 miles; Gage, 8.8 miles; Tunis, 11.1 miles, and 8.4 miles further, we are at ©eminff— The junction of Atchi- son, Topeka & Santa Fe Bailroad, where a connection was made with the Southern Pacific, March 8th, 1881. Deming, for the first year after the roads reached it, was cursed by swarms of the most vile and danger- ous classes of humanity, resulting in many desperate and bloody encount- ers. This scum, has now, nearly all floated away, leaving only a few stores and saloons, a few hundred yards to the south from the station, which ap- pear to be ekeing out a miserable existence on a very limited patronage. The EailroadCompanies have erect- ed at this "junction" a large hotel and depot building, in which are located the usual waiting rooms, ticket and telegraph offices, etc., with a large freight ware house, a short distance to the westward. The hotel— Deming House- -contains 25 rooms; with baths, hot and cold water, and is a regular eating station for all passenger trains. Six horse stages leave Deming dai- ly for Silver City and intermediate points, carrying passengers, mails, and Wells, Fargo & Co's and Adam's & Co's express, through in eight hours, distance 52 miles. At Silver City connections are made with stages for Fort Bayard, 9 miles ; Santa Rita Copper Mines, 21 miles; Georgetown, 28 miles ; Mogollon Mines, 80 miles, and Clifton, 100 miles. Fare, about 15 cents per mile. Distances from Deming: Tucson, 220 miles ; Yuma, 467 miles ; Los Angeles, 711 miles ; San Francisco, 1198 miles ; O^den, Utah, via San Francisco, 2,080 miles; Omaha, Neb., via Utah, 3,112 miles; Albuquerque, N. M., 231 miles; Santa Fe, N. M., 316 miles; El Paso, Tex., 88 miles ; New Orleans,viaT.& P , from El Paso, 1172 miles : Denver, Co' . via La Junta, 761 miles ; viaEspanola, 711 miles ; Kansas City, 1149 miles. With Deming, we conclude our des- criptions,f or this volume of the"Over- land," and refer our readers to the Time Tables of the several diverging Railroad lines from Deming and El Paso. For many items of general interest, see Annex, commencing on opposite page. For information in regard to Arizona, see Annex, No. 64. ^"'aiW^EK'a,?'''^'''^ CROFUTT'S aRIP-SACK GUM 49-SOIJ> ON THE TRAINS.'^ STATE CAPITOL OF CALIFO lA, (See Annex No. 15.) (16.) .ei. :nsr isT IE x:. 245 In rapid succession we pass the better residence of the " old settler," with his immense fields of grain and herds of stock, on beyond the boundaries of earlier settlements ; and now we reach the rude cabin of the hardy settler who has located still "farther west," and here, within a few years, will arise a home as attractive as those we have left behind, surrounded with orchards, gardens and flocks. Here, too, will the snug school-house be found, and the white church with its tapering spire, pointing the people to the abode of Him who hath so richly blessed his childiea. There is beauty on every hand. The wild prairie flowers, of a thousand difi'erent hues and varieties, greet the eye at every step; and the tiniest foot that ever trod Broadway could scarce reach the ground without crushing the life from out some of these emblems of purity. And when the cooling showers have moistened the thirsty earth, or when the morning dew is, spangling flower, vine and tree, there is more of quiet, graceful beauty— more of that spirit floating around us which renders man more human, and woman nearer what we desire her to be, than can be found within the walls of any city . Long will the memory of ihese scene? remain impressed on the mind of the trav- eler who admires nature in all her phases. For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio were supposed to contain the whe^it-grow- ing soil of the Union, and they became known as the '' Granaries of the States . " But those " gran- aries " have pushed themselves a little " farther west," if we may be allowed to use the expression. Nebraska has retained a portion of the name ; California and Oregon took the remainder. Ne- braska annually produces a large sarplus of wheat and corn, which finds its way eastward. With the advantages possessed by this State ; with a water-front of several hundred miles on a stream navigable the greater portion of the year; with the grandest railroad on the continent traversing her entire breadth ; with all the resources of com- merce at her command: wi»h unlimited watei power for manufactures, it will be strange, indeed, if Nebraska does not sustain her high rank in the great family of States. From our present stand-ooint the quotation, "Westward the Star of Empire Takes Its Way," must apply to The Far West— How often that sentence has been quoted, those who atre the most familiar with the growth of our western possessions can best remember. So often has it been ut- tered, that it has passed into a household word, and endowed its innocent and unsuspecting author with an earthly immortality. From the boyhood days of that reliable and highly re- spectable individual, the "Oldest Inhabi- tant" of any special locality in the -"Eastern Stales," it has formed the heading— in large or small caps — of nearly every newspaper notice which chronicled the fact that some family had packed their household goods and gods (mostly goods) and left their native land of woods, rocks, churches and school-houses, to seek a home among the then mythical prairies ef the "Far West. ' But oh ! in later years, how that quotation ran across the double columns of these same papers in all conceivable forms of type, when the fact was chronicled that one of our West- ern Territories was admitted as a State into the Union . Well, but where was your "Far West" then^ where people went when they had "Westward, hoi " on the brain? asks one, who speaks of the West as that part of our country which lies be- tween the Bummit of the Kocky Mountains and the waters of the Pacific Ocean? Well, the "Far West" ot that time, that almost mythical region, wab what now constitutes those vast and furlila prairies which lie south and west of the great lakes, and east of and bordering on the Mississippi Kiver. All west of that was a olank ; the home of the savage, the wild beast, and all unclean things —at least so said the " Oldest Inhabitant." i But our hardy pioneers passed the Rubicon, and the West receded before their advance. Mis- souri was peopled, and the Father of Waters be- came the great natural highway of a mighty com- merce, sustained in equal parts by the populous and newly made States lying on both its banks, which had been carved but of the " Far West " by the hands of the hardy pioneers. i Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri and Iowa, had joined the sifcterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It tra- versed the trackless desert, scaled the Rocky Mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon, But it passed not by unheeding the rich valleys and bioad prairies of Nebraska, which retained what became, with subsequent additions, a per- manent and thriving population. Then the yel- low gold, which had been found in California, drew the tide of emigration thitherward, and in a few years our golden-haired sister was added to the number comprisingthe States of the Union. Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, Kan- sas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and, later, c olorado, and still we have Dakota, Idaho, Mon- tana, Washington, Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- ico Territories, to say nothing of Alaska, wailing ihe time when they too shall be competent to add their names to the roll of honor and enter the Union on an ecuality with the others. Thus we see that the "Far West" of to-day has become far removed from the West of thirty— or even ten- years ago, and what is now the central portion of our commonwealth was then the Far., Far West. All is Changed— To-day the foam crested waves of the Pacific Ocean bear on their bosoms a mighty and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, South America, and the Orient are at our doors. A rich, powerful, populous section, comprising three States, has arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missions among the savages wero the only marks of civilization. And all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on the broad plains, are the scattered homes of the hardy and brave pioneer husbandmen ; while the bleak mountains — once I he home of the savage and wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canyons, are illuminated with the perpetual fires of the " smelting furnaces," the ring of pick, shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all tell of the presence ol the miner, and the streams of wealth which are daily flowing into our national cofi"ers are rapidly increasing ; for, just in proportion as the individupl becomes enriched, to does his country partake of his fortune. | Condensed History— it is only a score of years ago since the Government of the United States, in order to' better protect her citizens that had spread themselves over the wild expanse of country between the Missouri River and the Pa- cific Ocean, and from the Mexican on the south and the British possessions on the north, estab- lished a system of military forts and posts, extend- ing north and south, east and west, over this Terri- tory. Though productive of much good, they wero not sufficient to meet the requirements of tho times, and in many places settlers and miners were murdered with impunity by the Indians. Wise men regarded rapid emigration as the only 246 -A. isr isr IB x:. eafe plan of security, and this could not be accom- plished without swifter, surer, aud cheaper means of transporting the poor, who would gladly avail themselves of the opportunity to possess a free fai-m, or reach the gold fields of the West. The railroad and telegraph — twin sisters of civilization — ^were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads in the plentitude of their wisdom, piously crossed themselves, and clasped with a firmer grasp their money bags, when Young America dared broach the subject, "No, sir, no; the thing is totally absurd; impracticable,6ir ; don't talk any more of Buch nonsense to me," they would reply, as they turned away to go to their church or to their stock gambling in Wall street— probably the latter occu- pation. But Young America did not give up to this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags ; p.nd as the counties of the West grew and ex- panded under the mighty tide of immigration, they clamored for a safe and speedy transit be- tween them and their "Fatherland.'" Government vlth its usual red-tape delays and scientific way of how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the red hand of War— of Rebelion— pointed out to i t the etern necessity of securing, by iron bands, the fair dominions of the West from foreign or domes- tic foe. Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others had long urged the necessity and practicability of the scheme, the wealth and power which would accrue to the country from its realization, the idea found favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the knowledge that even the loyal State of California was in danger of being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign and domestic mechinations threatened the dismemberment of the Union into three divisions ; not until all this stared them in the face could our national Solons see the practica- bility of the scheme so earnestly and ably advocated by Sargent of California and his able coadjutors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion of our Western possessions, what had Government to off'er for successful defense? Nothing but a few half-finished and illjr-manned forts around the bay, and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- der this pressure was the charter granted ; and it may truly be said that the road was inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever known; for, without the pressure of the re- bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- day. Although the American people had been keenly alive to the import^ince of a speedy transit between the two extremes of the Continent ever since the discovery of gold on the Pacific elope, np to this time the old, vague rumdts of barren deser'e, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild savage, made the idea seem preposteroui . Even the reports of the emigrants could not convince them to the contrary ; nor yet the reports of the Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, that, for over 700 miles the road follows very closely their survey. Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of the people regarding the impracticability oi the scheme, after the road had became a national ne- cessity—a question of life and unity of the Bepub- lic. The great work has been accomplished, and to-day the locomotive whirls its long train, filled with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim, undefined, mythical land, composed of chaos, and the last faint efforts of nature to render that cha- otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. How great the change from the ideal to the reai! For three hundred miles after leaving Omaha, that vague " Great American Desert " proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater the changes through which our country has passed during the period irom the commencement to the ending of our proudest national civil record, save one. We live in a fast age ; the gentle breeze of to-day was the tornado ol fifty years ago. In noting the history of the Continental railroad we must speak of the attempts in that direction which had been made by other parties , Missouri, through her able and liberal legislature, was the first State to move in the construction of a na- tional or continental railroad. The Legislature of that State granted a charter, under which was in- corporated the Missouri and Pacific Eailroad Co., who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- sixth parallel to Santa Fe, New Mexico. From Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, this road would undoubtedly have been completed long ere this ; good authorities placing the limit at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed the Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through Southern, hostile territory. Government could not aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- quently the work was suspended. The States of Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, proposed to assist the work, by constructing a railroad from Little Rock, to connect with theiyi. &P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and one hundred and second degree of longitude, and for that purpose a charter was granted. Organization of the Paciflc Bail- roatt— The evident, and we might add, the im- perative necessity of connecting the East and West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged the corporators ol the great trans-continental line to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- ures were devised and laid before the people, but the supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, and other natural obstacles to be encountered, caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our energetic people to commence the great work. To attempt to lay the Iron rail througa vast tracts of unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile tribes of savage nomads ; to scale the snow-clad peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for even the American people to accomplish. But the absolute iMPOBTANCE, the urgent necessity of such a work, overcame all objections to the scheme, and in 1862 Congress passed an act, which was approved by President Lincoln on the first day of July of that year, by which the Government sanctioned the undertaking, and promised the use of its credit to aid in its speedy completion. The act was entitled 'An act to aid in the construc- tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to the Government the use of the same for postal, military, and other purposes." liand Cxrant- The Government grant of lands to the great national highway, as amended, was, every alternate section of land for 20 miles on each side of the road, or 20 sections, equaling 12,- 800 acres for each mile of the road . By the Com- pany's table, the road, as completed, is 1,776 18- 100 miles long from Omaha to Sacramento. This would give the companies 22,735,104 acres, divided ^2sr isTEx:. 247 as follows: Union Pacific, 13,895,104; Central Pa- ciflc,i,9,440,000. By mutual agreement between the Union and Central companies, made several years ago, Og- den, in Utah, has been decided upon as the "junction " of the two roads. In addition to the grant of lands and right of way, Government agreed to i^sue its thirty year six per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as follows : for the plains portion of the road, $16,- 000 per mile; for the next most difficult portion, $32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, $48,000 per mile. The Union Pacific Railroad Co. built 525 78-100 miles, for which they received $16,000 per mile; 363 602-1000 miles at $32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,2:36,512. The Central Pacfflc Railroad Co. built? 18-100 miles at $16,000 per mile; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,885,120. The total subsidies for both roads amount to $52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- terest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to an equal amount. Coist of congttrnctioii, material, etc.— In the construction of the whole line, there were used about 800.000 tons of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23,505,500 spikes. Besides this, there was used an incalculable amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost of the road with equipments complete by that of other first-class roads ($105,000), per mile and we have the sum of $186,498,900 as the approximate cost of the work. We have not had much to say heretofore in re- gard to the Importance of the Road— to the Ameri- can people, the Government, or the world at large, simply from the fact that it seemed to us, anything we might say would be entirely superifluous, as the incalculable advantages to all could admit of no possible doubt. We contented ourselves in an- nually calling attention to the vast extent of rich mineral, agricultural and grazing country opened up— a vast country which had heretofore been con- sidered worthless. We have pointed out, step by step, the most important features, productions, and advantages of each section traversed by the road; stated that the East and West were now connected by a short and quick route, ofer which the vast trade of China, Japan, and the Orient could fiow in its transit eastward; and, finally, that its importance to the miner, agriculturalist, stock-raiser, the Government, and the world at large, few, if any, could estimate. To those who are continually grumbling about the Pacific railroad, and forget the history of the past, professing to think that these railroad com- panies are great debtors to the Government, we would most respectiully submit Facts in Brief.— On the 18th day of March, 1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad was granted, while the country was in the midst of a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was most imminent- the Trent affair showed how im- minent— and the country was straining every nerve for national existence, and c&^^iteil, unusually cautious, Mr. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the House Committfe on the " Pacific Kailroad '' (See Congressional Globe, page 1712, session 2d, 37th Congress), said : " The road is a necessity to the Government. It la the Government that is asking individual cap- italists to build the road. Gentlemen are under the impression that it is a very great benefit to these stockholders to aid them to an extent of about half the capital required. I beg leave to call the attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the Government which is under the necessity to con- struct the road. If the capitalists of the country are willing to come forward and advance half the amount necessary for this great enterprise, the Government is doing little in aiding the Company to the extent of the other half by way of a loan." Again, (page 1,911)—" It is not supposed that in the first instance the Company will reimburse the interest to the Government ; it will reimburse it in transportation." Mr. White said: "I under- take to say that not a cent of these advances will ever be repaid, nor do I think it df sirable that they should be, as this road is to be the highway of the nation." In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 2,257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. Henry Wilson, from Mass., said: " I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink $100,oa),000 to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I had done a great thing for my country. What are $75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the central regions of this Continent, tkat shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- cific, and bind us together ? Nothing. As to the lands, I don't grudge them." Nine years later— after the road had been com- pleted nearly two years— Senator Stewart, from the Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- port to the U. S. Senate: "The cost of the overland service for the whole period— from the acquisition of our Pacific coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific railroad— was over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing. "The cost, since the completionof the road, is the annual interest"— [which includes all the branches— Ed.]— $3.897,129— to which must be added one-half the charges for services performed by the company, about $1,163,1:38 i or annum, making a total expendituie of about .95,000.000, and showing a saving of at least $3,0C0,000 per annum. " This calculation is upon the basis that none of the interest will ever be repaid to the United States, except what is paid by the servicts, and that the excess of interest advanced over Ireights is a total loss. " In this statement no account is made of the constant destruction of life and private property by Indians; of the large amounts of money paid by the Secretary of the Treasury as indemnity for damages by Indians to property in the Govern- ment 6ervic>^ on the plains, under the act of March 3, 1849; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- vention of Indian wars, of the Increased value of public lands, of the development of the coal and iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver mines of Nevada and Utah; of the value of the road in a commercial point of view in utilizing the interior of the continent, and in facilitating trade and commerce with the Pacific coast ana Asia; and, above all, in cementing the Union and furnishing security in tBe tvent of foreign wars." Remember that the Government by charter ex- acted that these companies should complete their line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhuman exertion, it was completed May 10, 1869— and the Government has had the benefit of the road seren years before the company were compelled by law to finish it. Now, if we take no account of the millions the Government saved during the buildingof the road - and at their own figures— the saving during tho 2i8 -A. IsT InT IB 2^ eeven years previous to 1876 has netted the Gov- ernmeiit S'^l^OOO^OOO, besides paying the interest on the whole amount of bonds. Again, if it cost the Government, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, according to Mr. Stewart, " over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing'''' how fast •was this increase ? Could it be less than six per cent, per annum? Should the figures be made on the basis of six per cent, the Government must have saved, previous to 1876, in the seven years that the line was completed— before the com- pames were compelled to complete it - over thirty MILLIONS OP DOLLARS. This, too, after the Gov- ernment deducts every dollar of interest on own bonds issued to the companies to aedthecon- etruction of the road. The above are some few of the advantages of the Pacific railroad to the Government, and, con- sequently, to the country at large. The States and Territories on the line of the Union and Central Pacific railroads, or immedi- ately tributary to it> contained a population, in 1860, of only 554,301, with 232 miles of telegraph line and 32 miles ot railway. This same cope of country contained a population, according to the census of 187'\ of 1,011,971, and was encompassed by over 13,000 mi es of telegraph lines and 4,191 miles of railroads, com;;/€i!e<:?, and many more la progress, in which was invested the enormous capital of $363,750,000. Add to the above the im- mense amount of capital invested— in quartz mills, smelting furnaces, development of mines, and other resources of the country, within the game ten years — then should we bring all the fig- ures down to the present times, the grand total would be comparatively an astonishing romance. Where, but a few years ago, the bufl"alo and other game roamed in countless thousands, and the savages skulked in the canyons, and secret hiding-places, where they could pounce out nn- awares upon the emigrant; the hardy pioneers who hnvemade the wilderness if not "to blossom like the rose," a safe pathway for the present generation, by laying down their lives in the cause of advancing civilization, now are to be seen hundreds of tnousands of hardy emigrants, with their horses, cattle, sheep, and domestic ani- mals; and the savages are among the things that have " moved on." Orumblers— The great hue and cry that are made at times by the people and press of the country, in regard to "giving away the lands," "squandering the public domain," etc., which censure the Government for giving, and the rail- road company for receiving grants of land in aid of this road, are very surprising in view of the fore- going facts. We would like to know what the lands on the line of these railroads would be worth without the road? Did the Government ever sell any? Could the Government ever sell them? I«Jever. It could not r alize as much from a million of acres as it would cost their surveyor* and land-agents for cl- ears while surveying and looking after them, when the Pacific roaa commenced, there was not a land oflice in Colorado?, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, or Nevada, and only one or two in each of the other States or Territories. On th« other hand, by the building of the road, many millions of dollars have already found their way into the Government treasury, and at just double the usual price per acre.. These grumblers would place the Government in the position of the boy who wanted to f a^ his apple, sell it, and then get credit for giving it away. O! how generous. No. O Annex. The lliffli School at Omalta— An illustration of which we present on page 29, stands on the site of the old State House of Nebraska, and is known as "Capitol Hill " It was completed in 1S7G, and cost 82-^<),000. It is 176 feet long and 80 feet wide. The main spire rises 185 feet from the ground. The building is constructed in the most sub- stantial manner, which, for convenience, beauty in design, and finish throughout, has but few, if any, suijeriors in the western country, Xo. 7 Annex. First Steam 'j rain -See illustration and description on page 56. J%o. « Annex. The Jfladrone Tree— See description, page 164. JSo. 10 Annex. Jack Slade— Virginia Dale was originally a stage station on the old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Slade, who was division superintend- ent for the old C. O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes wh« infested the coun- try, running off stock from the emio;rants, and ap- propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted desperado, having, it is said, 'killed thirteen men. The last of his exploits, east of the mountains, was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Julesburg. Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, which ended in a sh oting scrape, wherein Slade was beaten — or, as their class would say, "forced to take water."' In 1863 some of the drivers on the line, friends and employes of Slade's, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as "the Devil's left bower." He was .i great friend of Slade's, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of "right bower" to that same warm-natured iudi vidual. The place where this tragedy occurred is 50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below Fo-t Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson station) in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the morning. On alighting from the coach ht found Jules tied to a post in a coral, in such a position as to render him perfectly helpless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- ner, returning i o t he ranche for a " drink " between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, adding that he did not Intend to kill him Imm dlately; that he Intended to torture him to death. During this brutal scone, seven of Slade's friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol Into his mouth, and at the twenty-th rd shot blew his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from his victim, and put them in his pocket. In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, he would take Jules' ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the act, would demand the drinks on his oloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after this exploit. It became too hot for him in Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The p^•ople in that country had no love or use for his kind of people, and after his conduct had become insup- portable, the Vigilantes hung him. ^^ 3:sr 3i=3" E x:. 253 the water is boiling hot." We do not vouch lor the truth of this story, and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, except in two directions, is unbroken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which surrounds the lake are born the tributaries, almost the principal sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- tinent. Four of the most important tributaries of the Missouri— namely, the Big Horn, the Yel- lowstone, the Madison aiid the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north, then east, they strike Ihe Missouri, which, in its turn, flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 m^'les below into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake River, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of the bouth, which, after innumerable windings through deserts, and a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canyons surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses wher J these springs rise, the ex- plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic Oceau. It is a thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, Nos. 35 and 36.) Xo. it7 Annex. Ocean Steam ships.— The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San Francisco about the 15th of each month. The passage rates are: ifi 6 6 S 6 Payable in U. S. !l 2 8§ Gold Coin. ■B IS ll W o fi5 San Fkancisco to Miles. Yokohama, Japan, $250 00 $85 00 $53 00 4,764 Hiogo, 270 00 100 00 5,104 Nagasaki, •' 29!) 00 100 00 62 00 5,444 Shanghae, China, 300 00 100 00 65 00 5,964 Hongkong, " 300 00 100 00 5:300 6,384 Calcutta, India, 450 00 9,385 Children v-nder 12 years of age, one-half rates ; under five years, one-quarter rates: under one year, free. Family Servants, (European) eating and sleep- ing in European steerage, one-half cabin rates; eating in cabin and sleeping in European steer- age, three-qudrters cabin rates; eating and sleep- ing in cabin, full cabin rates. 250 lbs. baggage allowed each adult, first-class or cabin passeneer ; 150 lbs. each, European steer- age; 100 lbs. each, Chinese steerage: proportion- ate to children. 1^°" Round Trip Tickets, gnod for twelve mouths, will be sold at a reduction of 12H per cent, from regular rates An allowance of 20 pe;- cent, on return passage will be made to passengers who paid full lare to Japan or China, or vice versa, re-embarking within six months from date of landing, and an allowance of 10 percent, to those who return within twelve months. Families whose fare amounts to four full PASSAGES will be all' wed 7 per cent, reduction. Exclusive use of staterooms can be secured by the payment of half-rate for extra births. The Pacific Mail etpamships leave San Fran- cisco about the Ist of every month, for Yokohama and Honkor g, and for Sidney and Aukland via Honolulu, at about the same time— 1st of each month— and for New York, via Panama, about the 1st and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B. C. Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month. The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers to Portland from San Francisco every five days. Other steamers for up and down the coast, leave at changeable intervals; about weekly, however. 'So. 38 Annex. Col. Hudnut's Survey. —0;i the west side of Promontory Point, the line known as Colonel Hudnut's survey of the Idaho and Oregon branch of the U. P. R. R., passes north to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft River to Snake River, and along the southern bank of this stream to Old's Ferry ; thence across the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia River. For the entire distance between Promontory and Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not barren. From thence the route passes through a country abounding in fertile vallevs and bold mountains— the latter well-wooded. There is plenty of wood and other materials for building the proposed road along the whole length of the line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the line is varied, from smiling, fertile valleys to lofty, snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the general characteristics of the route and of one or two points of remarkable interest. The main ieature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its majestic cataracts. The stream, sometimes called Lewis River, is the South Fork of the Columbia, and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- tured westward of the Rocky Mountains in 1804. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divides Idaho and Wyoming Territories, The head waters of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of Lyon's and Barret's lakes on the north. The gen- eral course of the river from its source to Big Bend is northwest. At this point Henry's Fork, a large stream flowing from the the north, empties its waters into the main river. Thence the course is southwesterly until the first falls are reached— about 400 miles from the river's s urce. These are called the American Falls and are very fine, but do not present so sublime an appearance as will be seen about 100 miles further down the river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Sho- shone Falls, from 30 to 60 feet high, closing the scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. The width of the river at the point of taking the last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the fuLs is circular— somewhat like those of the Niagara. Be- fore the river reaches the cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 254 J^ INT IsT E! X:. 1,000 feet below the tope of the hlnffs. The most complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- out Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects from the main bluffs a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle Rock rises before us in the midst of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high ; its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near ihe center of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one being called Ballard's Island. Two rocky points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Excepting in point of thevo'umeof water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- agara. From this point the river runs nearly west until it reaches War > agle Mountains, about 80 ) miles from its source, when it turns due north, follow- ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again toihewest it unites with Clark's River, formii g the Columbia. After leaving the last falls the country is less broken, and the work of building the road would be comparatively light for most of the way. Xo. 29 Annex. Western Stock Raising- Dubbin, Obr & Co.— Cattle branded \B; also some of them \B, and horses the same. Post-oiHce, Cheyenne, W. T. Range, Bear Creek. Creighton & Co.— Horses branded quarter cir- cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, partcat- tle branded half-circle on fhoulder. Postoffice Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and Pumpkin creeks. Stock raising is an important industry. We have often expressed our belief that, ultimately, itwould be found there was not one f 'Ot of valueless land on the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek country, previous to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- sally aomitted by all who knew anything about that section of c.ountry, to be utterly valueless . Coal, in immense quantlti* s, was discovered all along the creek— great veine— and it is now the most valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. Portions of the Humboldt and Nevada Desert were also set down as valueless; vow, see what irriga- tion has done for a portion of it, where the people have had the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- gation, as at Humboldt ytation. We contend that a/^he lands on the line of this road are valuable, some as mineral, some as agricultural, but the greater portion is the finest grazing land in the world. This fact, of late years, is becoming thor- oughly understood, as in lb68 there would not i x- ceed twenty thousand bed of cattle on the whole line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; now there are over '00 000 head of cattle, 30,000 head of horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. The range is enormous, taking in broad plains, grass-covered mountains, and thousands cf as beautiful little foot-hills and mountain vaileys as there are in the world. This vection commences about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- tervening, is the stock-raiser's paradise. The ab- sence of water is the only r^rawback in th-s intt r- vening section, a- d in lime wells will be sui k at.d that obstacle overcome. The valley bluffs, low hills and mountain sides of this whoh- section are covi red with a luxuriant growth of gramma or " bunch" grass, one oi the most nutrtious grasses grown, together with white sage and grease-wood, upon whch all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- son, without care, exctpting what is necessary to prevent them from stra)ing beyond reach. Old work -oxen 'hat had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of the freight wagon during the season, have been lurned out to winter i y their owners, and by the following July they were " rolling fat "—fit for beef, W e know tLis to be a fact from actual ex- perience. This country is the great pasture land of the continent. There is room for millions of cattle in this unsettled country, and then havegr«zing land enough to spare to feed half the stock in the Union. In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of this great grazing range, and along the line of the great water courses, theie is no trouble from lack of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound In various sections, so that no very large tract of land is devoid of natural watering places. The grass grows from nine to twelve inch( s high, and IS peculiarly nutritious. It is always jireen near the roots, summer and winter. During the summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing frass as effectually as though cut and prepared for ay. The nutritive qualities of the gniss remain uninjured, and stock thrive equally weli on the dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very dry, unlike that which falls in more humid cli- mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a few inches, but the cattle readily remove it, reach- ing the grass without trouble. Again, the snow does not stick to t* e sides of the cattle and melt there, chilling them through, but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock in this country Is just what it will cost to employ herders— no more. The contrast between raising stock here and in the East must be evident. Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is adding an untold wealth to the country. The mountain streams aftbrd ample water power for raanulactories, and wool enough could be grown here with which to clothe all the people of the Union, when manufactured into cloth. With the railroad to trautport the cattle and sheep to the ^ft. isr isT IB x:. 255 Eastern and Western markets, immense fortunes are now being made, and the business is compara- tively new— in its infancy. No drouths which have been experienced in this great range have ever seriously afl'ected the pasturage, owin» to the peculiar qualities of the grasses ind genous to the country. So with storms: it has seldom happened that any storms are experienced which cause lose, and none ever need to, and none ever do, when the stock is prop- erly attended to and herded. On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to range together, and a system of brands has been adopted, and recorded with the county clerk in the section of country whero the herds belong. The recording of the brands is a protec- tion against theft and loss by straying, as each cattle man knows the brands in use in nis range, and each endeavors to protect the other's interest. The illustrations that we present, show two of the brands in use, and the method adopted by all cattle men to make known their brand, and the particular range, or home range of the cattle. (These are actual names, brands, range and ad- dresses.] The Annual " Round-Up.''— One of the most important and Interesting features of the stock-raising business is the cattle "round-up." In the "free and easy " manner of raising cattle on the broad, western plain, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless Texans scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and that extra effort is necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring "round up." Companies of herders are organized to scour cer- tain sections of country, and bring every animal to a grand focal point, no matter who that animal may belong to or what its condition may be. The old-fashioned "husking bee," " "possum hunt " or "training day" is vastly outdone by this wild revelry of the herders. Mounted upon their fleet- est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc- tions, gather in " everything that wears horns," and at night may have toe property of half-a-dozen owners in one 'immense, excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- gether, representatives of the different " brands ■" ride into the herd, single out their animals, one by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is repeated, until the whole plains country has been visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the participants " camp out " wagons, following the herd, with blankets and provisions, the " round- up" season, being one of mirth and frolic, as well as of work, from beginning to end. Xo. 30 Annex. The Oreat Cave— of Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the southwest of Eureka. It is situated in one of the low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which extends for about two miles into a branch of Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 65 feet high, and presents no indications which would lead one to suspect that it guarded the en- trance to an immense cavern. The entrance to the cave would hardly be noticed by travelers, it being very low and partly obscured. A rock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- plorer, who must pass along a low passage for about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the chambers discovered are of great size ; one, called the " dancing hall," being about seventy by ninety feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening into this chamber are several smaller ones, and near by, a clear, cold spring of excellent water gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more chambers, the walls of which are covered with stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites are found on the floors in great numbers. It is not known how far this cave extends, but it has been explored over 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm prevented further exploration. Indian Legend— The Indians in this vicinity have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be tempted to venture any distance within its haunted recesses. They have a legend that " heap" Indians went in once for a long way and none ever returned. But one who ventured in many moons ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss of those who accompanied him, and he is now styled "Cave Indian." According to the legend, he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled until he came to a beautiful stream of water, where dwelt a great many Indians, who bad small ponies and beautiful squaws. Though urged to stay with his people, "Cave" preferred to return to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffer- ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, but his people still live in the bowels of the earth. The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and will not venture within the darkness. Another story is current among the people who live near by, which is, that the Mormons were once posses- sors of this cave, and at the time when they had the rupture with the United States Government, used it as a hiding place for the plate and treas- ures of the Church and the valuables of the Mor- mon elders. The existence of the cave was not known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew ofit, until 1866. A Little Histoet— In the latter part of the summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- posa, in California, crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in Utah, but now in that part of the country set off to form Nevada. For three years the party worked placer mines and other gold along the various canyons and gulches extending eastward from the Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting further north, and who discovered Comstock Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye and Humboldt counties, and in the aujoining Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great "unexplored desert," on the map, was avoided until 1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz and flne timber land, extending along a series of parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- rado River. Several New York companies became interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where Treasure City now stands, to work veins in the Diamond Range. Across the valley, opposite New- ark. White Pine Mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here the " Monte Christo " mill was erected, at which a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen of better "nappias" than had yet been discov- ered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- covered at Treasure Hill and the " Hidden Treas- ure " mine were located and recorded on the 14th of September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- tion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, another source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- tending through Nevada and Utah . We refer to that branch of business which has been gradually increasing— one which will bring a large revenue to the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- ing. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 256 .A. IsT InT IB 3C. are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready- market in the mining districts and westward to Sacramento and San Francisco. Xo. 3 L Annex. Nevada i'alls.— 209. ITo. 3i Annex. Pioneer Mail £nter- prises.— (See page 218. No. 33 Annex. The I>omi«»v Party.— (Illustration page 71). Around this beautiful sheet of water— nestled so closely in the embrace of these mighty mountains, smiling and joyous in its matrhless beauty, as though no dark sorrow had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- tion— is clustered the saddest of memories— a memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. In the rail of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn and wasted from their long and arduous journey. Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of the California rivers, the fame of which had reached them in their Eastern home. At that time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- ter's Fort, brought there by the returning trap pers, who, with .wondrous tales of the fertility of the soil and the genial climate of California, had induced some of their friends to return with them and settle in this beautiful land. The Donner party, as it is generally called, was one of those parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was journeying to this then almost unknown land. Arriving at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the danger threatening them, hurried thtm forward, that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the snows of winter should encompass them. Part of the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite all warnings, he loitered along until, at last, he reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped there for the night. The weather was growincr cold, and the black and threatening sky betokened the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road turned to the left in those days, following up Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- mit Meadows, a verydilficult and dangerous route in fair weather. The party who encamped at the lake that night numbered 16 souls, among whom were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During the night, the threatened storm burst over them in all Its fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. The snow fell heavily and fast, as it can fall in those mountains. Most of the frightened cattle, despite the herder's vigilance, " went off with the storm." In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- held one vast expanse of snow, and the large white flakes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. Some of the cattle and their horses remained. They could leave wagons, and with the horses they might possibly cross the mountains. But here aroselanother diificulty, Mr. Donner was un- well, and could not go — or preferred to wait until the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true woman, refused to leave her husband. The balance of the party, with the exception of one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade Mr. and Mrs. Donner a last good-by ; and after a long and perilous battle with the storm, they suc- ceeded in crossing the mountains and reaching the valleys, where the danger was at an end. The storm continued, almost without intermission.for several weeks, and those who had crossed the Summit knew that an attempt to reach the im- prisoned party would be futile— worse than folly tmtil the spring sun should melt away the icy barrier. I Of the long and dreary winter passed by these I three persons, who shall tell ? The tall stumps standing near where stood the cabin, attest the depth of snow. Some of them are twenty feet in height. Early in the spring a party of brave men, led by Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring out the prisoners, expecting to find them alive and well, for it was supposed that they had pro- , visions enough to last them through the winter, but it seems they were mistaken. After a desperate effort, which required weeks of toil and exposure, tha party succeeded in scaling the mountains, and came to the camp of the Donners. What a sight met the first glance 1 In a rudely constructed cabin, before the Are, sat the Dutchman, holding in a vice-like grasp a roasted arm and hand, which he vas greedily eat- ing. With a wildandfrightenedlook ho sprang to his feet and confronted the new comers, holding on to the arm as though he feared they wonld de- prive him of his repast. The remains of the arm were taken from him by main force, and the ma- niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given such burial as the circumstances would permit, ar.d taking the survivor with them, they returned to the valley. \ The German recovered, and still lives. Hif ^ story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- ner died, and was buried in the snow. The last of the cattle escaped, leaving but little food ; and when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. Many dark suspicions of foul play on the part of the only survivor have been circulated, but whether they are correct will never be known, un- - til the final unraveling of time's dark mysterios. Xo. 34 Annex. *Ro11 Fm Tliionel».»» —Oct. 17th, 1872, as an excursion train, loaded with passengers, most of whom were women aad children, rounded the curve close below the tun- nel, and with No. f> train thundering along close behind, the timbering in the tunnel was discov- ered by the fireman to be on fire. The engineer, JohnnyBartholomew, comprehended the position at a glance, made one of the most brilliant dashes, under the circumstances, on record. The train past through the tunnel safely, when to have stopped short would have been sure death. G. H. Jennings, Esq., of Brooklyr, N. Y., has put the following words in the mouth of the brave engineer : I ain't very much on the lancy, And all that sort of stuff. For an engineer on a railroad , Is apt to be more "on the rough;" He don't "go much" on "his handsome," I freely "acknowledge the com," But he has got to "git up" on his "wide-awake," That's "just as sure's you're born." Now, I'll tell you a little story, 'Bout "a run'' we had for our necks, When we thought "old Gabe" had called us, To "ante up our checks. " We came 'round the curve by the tunnel, Just beyond the American Flat, A'hen my fireman sings out, "Johnny! Look ahead I My God, what's that? " You bet, I warn't long in sightin'— There was plenty for me to see, With a train full of kids an' wimmen. And their lives all hargin' on me— For the tunnel was roarin' and blazin', , All ragin' with fire an' smoke. And "Number Six" close behind us— " Q,uick, sonny! shove in the coke." . .A- j^inteix:. 257 "Whistle 'down brakes,' " I first thought; Then, think's I, "old boy, 't won't do ;" And with hand on throttle an' lever, I knew I must roll ''em through! Through the grim mouth of the tunnel- Through smoke an' flame, as well- Right into the "gateway of death," boys; Right smack through the "jaws of hell! ** The staunch "old gal" felt the pressure Of steam through her iron joints; She acted just like she was human- Just like she "knew all the points; " She glided along the tramway, With speed of a lightning flash. With a howl assuring us safety. Regardless of wreck or crash. I 'spose I might have "jumped the train, In hope to save sinew and bone, And left them wimmen and children To take that ride alone ; But I tho't of a day of reck'nin' ; And whatever "Old John" done here, No Lord ain't going to say to him then, "You went hack as an engineer I " Ho. 35 Annex. The Valley of the Yel- Icwstone- No. 7, of the large illustrations, is engraved from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, the great explorer of the West. It presents a view of one of the finest and most picturesque portions of the valley. It is looking southward, above the first or lower canyon, and directly on the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits may be seen on the left of the picture, extending up the river. Below is the first canyon, between the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then makes its exit from the mountain region proper. The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from four to five miles m width, and is one of the most delightful portions of Montana. (See Annbx No. 26 and 36.) No. 36 Annex The Falls of the Yel- lowstone—as illustrated in No. 8 of our series of large views is one of the most perfect pictures ever made. It is from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, andengravedbyBro8S,of New York. Itrepre- sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- tance of 350 feet. -Prof. Hayden, in his report, says : "After the waters of the Yellowstone roll over the upper falls, (140 feet,) they flow with great rapidity over an apparently flat, rocky bottom, which spreads out to nearly double its width above the falls, and continues thus until near the Lower Fall, when the channel again contracts, and the waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves into one compact mass, and plunge over the preci- pice in detached drops of foam, as white as snow, some of the huge globules of water shooting down through the sunlight, like the white fire contents of an exploded rocket. It is a spectacle infinitely more beautiful than the grande-t picture ever E resented of the famous Falls of Niagara. In the nmediate vicinity of the Lower Falls, and in the grand canyon, the scene is indescribably beauti- ral. A heavy mist arises from the water at the foot of the falls, so derse that one cannot ap- proach within from two to three hundred feet of them, and even then the clothes will be drenched in a few moments. Upon the glowing, yellow, nearly vertical walls of the west side, the mist mostly falls, and for 300 feet from the bottom, the wall is covered with a thick matting of mosses, sedges, grasses, and other vegetation of the most vivid green, which hav^ sent their small roots into the softened rocks and are nour- ished by the ever-ascending spray. (See Annbx No. 26 and 35.) Xo.3y Annex. Falls of the H'illamette Biver. (See page 215.) Xo. 38 Annex. Cape Horn. (See page 232.) ]Vo. 39 Annex. Wood Hanlins in Ne- Tada. (See page 232.) ]¥o. 40 Annex. ]»Iirror l.ake Yo-Se- mite Valley. (See page 209.) Ko. 41 Annex. The Pony Fxpress. (See page 151.) Xo. 4» Annex. t$ierra Xevada Moun- tains, (See page 138.) ]\^o. 43 Annex. 3Inunt i^hasta. (See page 214.) UTo. 44 Annex. IVoodward <^ardens— These Gardens were laid out in 1860 by R. B. Woodward, Esq., a gentleman of enterprise and refined taste, to surround, adorn and beautify his private residence, situated near the center of the grounds. To this end the continents of both America and Europe were searched to procure every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indi- genous plants, or articles of rare virtue and value. For us to attempt to describe these beau- tiful grounds, and do justice to the subject, were we able, would take a larger book than the Tour- ^^'^^\ J^^^^ °^"^^ ^® ^^^° 'o be appreciated. You will find in the ''Art Gallery " rare paintings and statuary ; in the "Zoological department ag eat variety of different kinds of wild animals, inclndi t.g the California lion, and a mammoth griezly bear, weighing 1 600 pounds; also a great variety of California birds. ^ In these grounds are towering evergreen trees and crystal lakes, oriental arbors and beautiful statuary, delightful nooks and shady retreats, with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling f9untains sweet music, and, above all, the glo- rious California sky. Possessed of all these fux- uriant surroundings, and with ample income, could any person be surprised that Mr. Wood- ward should persistently decline to open them to the curious public? But the time came at last. It was when the soldiers and sailors of this coun- try lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the ships, in the camps, and on the battle-fields, with widows, orphans, suffering, and death on every side. The sanitary fund was low. Money must be had! Then it was that his noble heart leaped to the res- cue. The grounds were then thrown open to the public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The re- ceipts were princely; and no one can say how many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? Ihese gardens were opened permanently to the public ip May, 1866. They occupy five acres of ground, lour of which are bounded by Market, Mission, 13th and 14th streets, with one acre to the south of 14th street, connected by tunnel un- der that street from the main garden. TSo. 45 Annex.— The Geysers— Page 184. Ho. 46 Annex— The large vieiv of San Francisco— See page 214. Xo. 47 Annex. [From page 234.] The Ancient Kuins of Arizona are very exten- sive, and are scattered over a large portion of the TeiTltory. These ruins consist, in part, of towns, cities, and scattered hamlets ; castles, temples and great buildings ; fortifications, huge j walled enclosures and causeways, together with great canals, cisterns and reservoirs of immense 258 ^NN-EX. feet in width ; one building is 350 feet long by- ISO -wide; an immense castle is situated on the apex of a mountain, 3,000 feet above the valley. Potjteryware and st&ne implements in great variety are scattered about the ruins, while rude hieroglyphics and pictures of men, animals, birds, turtles and reptiles are painted on or cut deep into the rocks, at dififerent places in the country. Burial, or cremation urns are olten found, some containing ashes and partly burned human bones. Casa Grande, (signifying 'IBig Hor^e,") one of these ruins, is situated a few mUes south of the Gila river, on a great plain, about 14 miles north of the station of Casa Grande. This building is one of the best preserved, but unde> the medium Eize ; is 63 feet long by 45 feet wide ; the walls are of concrete, five feet thick, and are now standing about 40 feet in height, or a little over four stories. These ruins are pre-historic ; the builders have long since passed away, leaving no records of ■who they were ; when they lived ; whence they came, or whither they went. The first account in history of these ruins date back over 300 years —to the Sixteenth Century— at which time the Jesuit Fathers explored and described the country ; [its ruins and people ; their reports differ in no essential points from those of a later period, nor could the Father* procure any information from the Indians then inhabiting the country, that would aid them to establish the identity of the people who had built the cities, towns and other improvements, and who undoubtedly possessed Btuch civiliza- tion, and lived by cultivating the soil. Ko. 4» Annex. Painted Kofks.— Mr. Hodge, in his work, "Arizona as it is," says: "This mass of rock rises from the surface of the plam to & height of perhaps 5© feet, the upper- most being a broken ledge from which masses have fallen off, and the whole covering less than an acre of ground. On the standing ledge and, on the brokenmasses at its base, are carved deep in the surface rude representations of men, animals, birds and reptiles, and of numerous objects, real or imaginary, some of which^epre- sent checker boards, some camels and drome- daries, insects, snakes, turtles, etc., etc.; and on the other broken rocks at the base of the ledge, are found on all sides like sculptured fig- ures, some of which are deeply imbedded in the Baud. These pictured rocks present much of interest to the thinking mind, and when exam- ined by some one versed in hieroglyphica} read- ing, may be found to giv« some clue to the time of making and the people who made them." The earUest accountwe have of these "Painted Rocks," as well as the "Ancient Ruins" of Arizona, comes from the exploration of the Jesuit Fathers, who traversed the country in tqe Sixteenth Century. In comparing their re- ports with the appearance of the "Rocks" and "Ruins" of the preseht time, very little, if any, change is noticeable. The Indians, in answer to all questions of the Fathers, as to who carved the rocks, or built the towers and cities then in ruins, received the same answer as the Pima Indians give at the present time, which was, "Moc-te-zu-ma. " Ko. 49. Annex. Tiewina: Progress— During the construction of the Pacifid Railroad- and, in fact, for many years afterwards— the locomotive, cars, and all persons connected with the road , were viewed with great curiosity by the Indians in the country through which it was built. The engines — "fire wagons" — and the long train of cars — "heap wagon no hoss" — re- ceived the Indians' special attention ; aud they would gather around on the hills at first, and then cautiously approach and watch every move- ment — lying around for days and months at a time. From the commencement of the building of the road through the Indian country until its completion, the Indians had a wholesome fear of the "fire wagons." They would often attack small parties of graders, or stragglers from the camps ; but only in two or three instances did they attempt to disturlo the passing trains, and in those cases they were punished so 8eve)-ely, that ever afterward they declared "fire-wagon" bad medicine. The illustration on page 233 represents a small party of Apache Mohaves , headed by theu' famous war chief, Mi-ra-ha, in 1868, who, having heard about the terrible ' 'fire-wagons," lef ttheir country in north eruArizona, and made a pilgrimage to the northward, many hundred miles to view the great curiosity. We learned from a half-breed, on a re- cent visit to Arizona, that Mi-ra-ha, after his re- turn to Arizona, resolved to gather his forces and capture one of these Pacific railroad 'fire- wagons.' But as Gen. Crook made it very lively for him at home formany years after his return, and as Capt. Porter sent him to his "happy hunting ground," in 1876, he has probably got all he can attend to. Ko. 50. Annex. Palaee Hotel at San Francisco. — This monster hotel of the world, is situated in the city of San Francisco occupy- ing one entire biock of ground, 344 by 265 feet, bounded by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie streets. It is seven stories high (115 feet), the foundation walls are twelve feet thick, while the exterior and interior walls range from 1)6 feet to 4J^ feet in thickness. The foundation walls at tfieir bafee, are built with inyerted arcnes. Afl exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet," commencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used, increases in every story towards' the roof, and in the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart. The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and the cornice of zinc and iron. The building has three courts, the center one having an iron- framed glass covering, and is 144 by'84 feet, with a drive-way and sidewalk opening on New Montgom- ery street, forty -feet wide. The two outer courts, from the basement level, are each 22 by 135 feet, with two drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from Market and Annie streets, and one from Amiie an*' Jessie streets. These are connected by two brick-arched passage-ways, ten feet in width, allowing ample space for a four-in-hand team to pass under and through them. Besides the city water- works, a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, whichhave a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. A reservoir is located under the centre court, cap- able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are seventanks. which will contain 128,000 gallons. The hotel is suppUed with two steam force pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- vators, together vrith aU the modern improve- ments, aud built throughout in the most sub- stantial manner. (See illustration page 180.) Wo. 5a Annex. *'Prickey/» the Horned Tuadi Seepage 126. Bay of San IVaodKO. Oakland Wharf. SAN FRANCISCO, THE GOLDEN GATE, ANi (See Annex No. 46.) ^ ]Sr N" E X 259 No. 53 Annex. iro-!!^eiiiite and Big Trees. See page 184. UTo. 54 AN^fEX. Our Artists—The greater portion oi the engraving in this work was exe- cuted by R. S. Bross, of New York, and C. W. Chandler, cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts., Chi- cago. Nearly all the large views, including "Utah's Best Crop," "Women of the Period," and "Brig- ham Young," and most of the large views were engraved from photographs, by Mr. Bross, while the "Orange Orchard," "The Loop," "Crossing the Sangre de Christo Mountains," Yucca Palm," "Hanging Rock of Utah," etc., were engraved by Mr. Chandler. The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake City, and Watkins and Houseworth, of San Francisco. All of these artists we take pleasure in recommending. No. 55 Annex. The "Boss" Cactus of til e World — onpage233i a simple reference has been made to this wonderful Sprout as being pecuhar to the Gila Desert. It is possible they may grow in other portions of the Territory, but certain 1 is, these are the first on our route. These Cacti are of different shades of green and yellow, and rise from the ground in the shape of a huge cone, many tc the height of 60 feet, with a diameter of three feet near the ground. Some of these great cones have from one to five smaller cones that branch out from the main trunk at differen. heights, and shoot up parallel with it to various heights, all presenting the same general appearance. •* All these cones are grooved from top to bottom, the grooves being from one to three inches in depth and as many inches apart ; the whole sur- face is covered with thorns of various sizes,— some three inches in length ; and all very sharp. These cacti have a tough flaxen shell or exte- rior, but a soft, pithy inside, and produce one blossom annually— on the top— and yield a kind of fruit much prized by the natives. On the Gila Desert, no tree or shrub grows more than a few feet from the ground, and rattle- snakes, lizards, owls, and woodpeckers are about the only living things noticeable. How the lizard and owl manaye to raise the young, and keep them from being devoured by the snake, is a problem which the woodpecker alone has solved by pecking a hole in the tall cactus near its top, making its nest, and raising its young se- cure from the snake and all its ^reeping enemies. As we ride along and see Mr. Woodpecker peeking out from his fortress in the tall cactus.we cannot help but admire the sagacity of the little fellow, while condemning his j udgment for attempting to live and bring up a respectable family in such a •'God-forsaken country" as the Gila Desert. No. 5"* Annex, ^nie-w Hacrameiito De- pot. See page 173. No. 03 Annex. The IM[anim:»th Snow Plow. See page 126. No. 6 1 Annex. Arizona is a Territory of 122,000 square miles, more than double the size of the State of Pennsylvania, and, if reports are true, contains a wealth of minerals far exceeding any i)ortion of the United States. Indian diffi- culties have had much to do in retarding the set- tlement of the Teiritory, but happily they are now at an end, and the proximity of the "iron horse" has had a tendency to direct attention to this heretofore almost inaccessible region, the result of which will soon enable the land of Ari- zunna— "The Beautiful ot the Sun"— to come for- ward and demand admission into the Union of States as one more star in the bright constella- tion. Spanish Adventurers penetrated Arizona as early as 1540, but no permanent settlenaent was made until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers settled with their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there were thirty missions within the present limits of Arizona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in charge of the Jesuit Missionaries. At that time these missions were in the height of their pros- perity, and from which time they commenced to decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. Many of the Missions were burned and the priests murdered. The mineral deposits of Arizona are very exten- sive and very rich ; principally gold, silver, cop- per and coal, but we have no space to particularize. We will simply presentafew "items," andchron- ological events : In 1540, the Spanish viceroy — Mendoza -ordered an exploration of Arizona, at which time there were 200 silver mines being worked. The miners and people were despoiled and immense wealth carried away to Madrid, Spain. In March, 1539, Padre Marco de Niza, and Senor Estivanico — a man of color — left Cahacana —New Spain— and reached the Gila River, and discovered the Pima Indian villages, at the same point in the valley that their descendents are now found. In 1560, the first settlement was made at Tuc- son. An Indian outbreak in 1802, and again in 1827, made the tenure of the Spanish rule pre- carious and practically ended it ; yet, soldiers remained in the country in small numbers until 1840. In 1824, Sylvester Pattie and his son James— formerly of Bardstown, Ky.— visited Ari- zona on a trapping expedition, failing in their ef- forts to find game, they were arrested by order of the Mexican commander of San Diego and im- prisoned, where the father died. Sometime af- terwards James was released, and joined the famous Walker expedition and was killed in battle. In 1849, the "Southern Route"— through Ari- zona — was much frequented by emigrants en- route for the gold fields of California, which re- sulted in much suffering and loss of life. Arizona and New Mexico were ceded to the United States by Mexico, February 2d, 1848— or that portion laying north of the Gila and MasiUa valleys. The portion to the south, was not ac- quired until December 30, 1853, and was known as the "Gads-den's Purchase." This last acquisi- tion formed a part of Sonora. The Boundary Commission commenced its work in the sununer of 1849 and completed it in 1855. Cap. John Moss — is said to be the first explorer of the Grand Canon of the Colorado.in 1850. Major Heintzehnan located Fort Yuma in 1 85 1 . Lieut. Ives, explored the Colorado River and its lower canons, in 1854. Lieut. A. B. Gray, in 1854, made a survey for a railroad fi-om Marshall, Texas, to El Paso and thence westward to Tubac, from which point branch surveys were made to PostLabos, on the Gulf ef California, and via Yuma to San Diego.— This line was known as the Hon. Robert J. Walker route, for which bonds were issued in 1852. Lieut. Park, in 1854-5, ma4e a survey from San Diego, Cal., via Yuma and Tucson to El Paso, Texas. Yuma — first called Arizona City — was laid out in 1854. In August, 1856, a party left San Antonio, Texas, to prospect for mineral in Ari- 260 --^ N N K X . zona. Their route was via Apache Pass— and a perilous one. Upon their arrival at Tubac— tiie party was divided and a hunt for silver mines commenced through the mountains of Santa Tlita, Arivaca and the Cerro Colorado. Many mines were discovered and several companies formed for working them, but the Apaches got away with most of the mineral and all the scalps. The Crabb expedition— of 1,000 men— raised in California, in 1856-7, for colonizing Sonora, reached Sonoita, Arizona, in March, 1857. By invitation of the Sonora authorities, an advance of 1§0 men with their commander, Henry A. Crabb, entered Sonora soon after, and were met at Coborca, by Pesqueira, Governor of the State of Sonora, and every person killed. Crabbs' head was cut off and sent by the Governor to the City of Mexico, as an evidence of his loyalty to his government. This act checked immigration to Sonora. In 1857, Senator Guinu of California, endeav- ored to secure a territorial organization for Ari- zona, but failed. In August, 1857, J. C. Woods, established a semi-monthly stage line, between San Antonio, Texas, and San Diego, Cal. In 1858, the Butter- field semi-weekly stage line was established, be- tween St. Louis, Mo., and San Francisco, Cal., with a subsidy from the Government of 8600,000 a year.— Time 82 days. His service was faith- fully performed— without a single failure— until 1861, "the outbreak of our civil war, when the route was changed, leaving St. Joseph, Mo., and going via Salt Lake City, Utah. In 1861, the Government troops were with- drawn from Arizona and the Indians and des- perados took possession. In 1860, Senator Green of Missouri, endeav- ored to have a bill passed for a temporary Gov- ernment for Arizona, but failed. In 1 860, a fillibustering expedition was fitted out in Cahfornia to invade Sonora, but without result. The 27th of February, 1862, Cap. Hunter of the Southern Confederacy with 100 men, took possession of Tucson. The advance of Gen'l Carlton, with the California column of Federal troops, met Capt. Hunter's forces, near Pecacho Peak— 40 miles west of Tucson— resulting in a victory for Gen'l Carlton, and the retreat of all Confederate troops into Texas. February 24th, 1863, Congress passed the Or- ganic Act, estabhshing Arizona as a Territory, with John N. Goodwin, of Maine, as Governor. Arizona, until February 24th, 1863, was a part of New Mexico. The Territory was formally organized on Dec. 24th, 1863, at Navajo Springs. 40 miles north- west from the noted Zuni Pueblo. When the Territory was organized, it was said to contain 32,400 Indians and only 580 Whites. An old Arizonian said, when he saw the first locomotive coming : "I felt just as though I must go and hug it." In 1880, the production of precious metals in Arizona was $4,472,471. In 1881, the same was $8,198,766— an increase of ;$3,726,295. Should we ventur^ to prophesy— tor 1882 — oxir figures would exceed $10,000,000, and — for 1890 — $25,000,000. 'This Territory— in a mineral point of view— is greatly underrated. The Indian troubles of last year have tended to make, not only every soldier, but every teamster, wood-chopper, burro puncher, naule-skinner, bull- whacker and all other men — traveling arsenals ; with a belt about the waist loaded with cartridges, a pair of six-shooters, a formidable knife and a rifle for long range. The soil in the valleys of Arizona is a rich' gravelly aUuvium, and with sufBciont water, would produce abundant crops ; in some portions, two crops a year. The rains come in July, August and Septem- ber, and the sand storms cloud bursts tCnd "bliz-- zards" occasionally. During our civil war, Arizona was one field c.f carnage. Indian depredations, nearly devastated the country. Over 40,000 square miles of coal formation can be traced in the Territory ; one of the most im- portant is the San Carlos Indian Reservation. Just east of Old Maricopa Wells stage station, at the base of the FiStrella range, may bo seen a remarkable formation, representing distinctly the perfect face of a man reclining, with his' eyes closed, as though in sleep. The Indiai:s in this country have a legend concerning this face. They believe it is Montezuma's face— and that ho will awaken from his long sleep someday, willgatht r aL the brave and the faithful around him, uplift his down-trodden people, expell the invad' rs on his rights, and restore to his kingdom all the great power and glory, as it was before the white man visited it.— It is reported, that in some localities, watch-fires are kept constantly burning in anticipation of Montezuma's early coming. \o. 65 Annex. BMIQRA^T SI>EKP- IXO CAK!S— Of all the improvements adopted by Railroad companies in this country, for the comfort and convenience of their passengers, the Sleeping' Car, is the most important, and we might add, the most expensive tj the passengers. Indeed, the charges for berths in Sleeping Cars, on many roads— together with onerous perquis- ites, virtually exclude the great r portion of the traveling public. Most men emigrating with their wives and families to the El Dorado of the West, start with small means, depending upon pluck, energy and hard work, for the future out- come ; these parties cannot pay tL ee or more dollars a day for sleeping accommodations, how- ever anxious they may be, to alleviate the hard- ships incidental to a long journey in the emi- grant cars. The honest, sober, industrious, economical and enterprising emigrant, is the geimof life in our trans-Missouri country. To cherish, aid, and ameliorate the condition of the emigrant, is to hasten the settlement of tho vast amount of un- occupied land, and the developement of the enor- mous mineral and other resources of the great West, the results of which, are not only of great interest to all good citizens, hnt of paramount importance to the great Railroads of the country, the basis of whose existence are founded upon the very class of emigrants named, without which they would never have been built. Families emigrating, should have the special care , attention, and protection, of the Railroad companies' agents, over whose road they are trav- eling, t gether with all the comforts and conveni- ences possible, and at the luwest rates of fare. The Pacific Railroad companies' agents have al- ways been noted for the fatherly attention shown their emigrant passengers, and the Sleeping Cars now in use by this line, especially for their emi- grants, are for comfort and convenience, far in advance of any car heretofore used on emigrant trains. These cars are 44 feet long, 9 feet 4 inches j^ IT 3^ E3 x:. In order not to encumber the body of this work with matters that do not directly pertain to the main points at issue, the author has originated an " annex," wherein the reader will find a mass of information which has been prepared with great care, and embraces condensed descriptions and statistical information gathered from the best sources. To these points the reader is frequently referred, throughout the work, by a number to correspond with the annex sought. The numbers at the bottom of the large illustrations, which begin at the first of the book , will be found to correspond with those in the annex, giving a description of the same, and, vice versa. Ko. 1 Annex American Progress.— This beautiful picture, which is No, 1 of our large views, ia purely national in design, and r presents the United States' portion of the American Continent ; the beauty and variety, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, illustrating at a glance the grand drama of Progress in the civilization, settlement, and history of this country. In the foreground, the central and principal fig- ure, a beautiful and charming female, is floating westward through the air, bearing on her forehead the ''• Star of Empire." She has left the cities of the East far behind, crossed the Alleghanies and the "Father of Waters," and still her course is westward. In her right hand she carries a book — common school — the emblem of education and the testimonial of our national enlightenment, while with the left hand she unfolds and stretches the Blender wires of the telegraph, that are to flash Intelligence throughout the land. On the right of the picture, is a city, steamships, manufactories, Bchools and churches, over whicn beams of light are streaming and filling the air— indicative of Civilizition. The general tone of the picture on the left, declares darkness, waste and confusion. From the city proceed the three great continental lines of railway, passing the frontier settler's rude cabin and tending toward the Western Ocean. Next to these are the transportation wagons, overland stage, hunters, gold-seekers, pony ex- press, the pioneer emigrant, and the war-dance of the " noble red man." Fleeing from "Progress," and toward the blue waters of the Pacific, which shows itself on the left of the picture, beyond the snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevadas, are the Indians, buflalo, wild horses, bears, and other fame, moving westward— ever westward. The ndians, with their squaws, pappooses, and *' pony-lodges," turn their despairing faces toward the setting sun, as they flee from the presence of the wondrous vision. The "Star" is too much for them. What American man, woman or child, does not feel a heart-throb of exultation as they think of the glorious achievements of Progress since the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, on staunch old Plymouth Rock ! This picture was the design of the author of the Tourist— is National, and illustrates, i:^ the most artistic manner, all those gigantic resui^ of American brains and hands, which have caused the mighty wilderness to blossom like the rose. 16 No. iS Annbz. Passage Ticket Meiuorandi> No. 3 Annex. Baggage Check Memoranda. 244 ^NN-E X No. 4. Annex.- RATES OF FARE. New York to Sau Francisco, California .• Philadelphia to" " " Baltimore to " " " Boston to " " " Cincinnati to " " " Indianapolis to " " " Chicago to " , " " St. Louis to " ' " " Omaha to Grand Island, Nebraska " North Platte, " " Sidney, " ♦»#. " Denver, Colorado , " Colorado Springs, Colorado " Pueblo, Colorado " Cheyenne, Wyoming " Deadwood, Black Hills, via Stage from Sidney " Laramie, Wyoming " Ogden, Utah « Salt Lake City, Utah " Virginia City, Montana via Stage from Dillon " Deer Lodge, " " Helena, " " Corinne, Utah " Boise City, Idaho, via Stage from Shoshone " Silver City, " " " " " Baker City, Oregon, " " " " Walla Walla, Wash'n," " " " " Umatilla, Oregon, " " " " " Dalles, Oregon, " " " " " Portland, via Stage from Shoshone " " " " « Redding , " " " Steamer from San Francisco , " Elko, Nevada " Battle Mountain, Nevada • " Reno, " Virginia City, " via V. & T. R. R. from Reno " Truckee, California " MarysvUle, " " Sacramento, " " Stockton, " " Los Angeles, " all Rail via Lathrop " Los Angeles, " via Steamer from San Francisco. " Santa Barbara, " " " " " " " San Diego, " « « « « « ^ " San Jose " " San-Francisco," '. 1st Cla3S 2d Class Emigrant $137 35 134 85 131 85 137 75 114 25 113 85 113 50 105 85 6 20 11 65 16 85 25 00 25 00 25 00 22 00 40 5(f 26 20 60 00 62 00 65 10 68 10 68 10 61 75 106 75 106 75 108 60 114 05 120 00 139 25 120 00 80 50 86 75 98 00 101 00 99 00 100 00 100 00 100 00 100 00 115 00 110 00 115 00 100 00 100 00 $102 25 100 75 99 50 104 25 87 50 88 00 88 00 82 00 22 00 22 00 22 00 20 00 35 50 50 00 52 00 50 10 53 10 53 10 51 35 71 60 78 60 85 00 90 75 85 00 85 00 85 00 114 25 85 00 70 10 75 00 75 00 78 00 75 00 75 00 75 00 75 00 78 00 85 00 82 50 85 00 75 00 75 00 $75 00 73 50 09 50 76 00 60 00 58 00 58 00 52 00 24 20 40 00 42 00 42 00 45 00 45 00 41 75 53 50 60 50 65 45 69 00 65 45 66 95 66 95 84 25 55 00 45 00 45 00 45 00 48 00 45 00 45 00 45 00 45 00 47 50 55 00 52 50 55 00 45 00 45 00 Children under five years of age, free ; under twelve years, half-fare. Cars can be chartered for carrying passengers; each person must be provided with a Ticket. Hfo. 5.— Annex. OUB WESTERN COUNTRY TPast and Present— This country can no longer be spoken of as the "Far West," as that land is generally conceded to lie nearer sundown, or, at least, beyond the Rocky Mountains. Ne- braska, which we enter on crossing the river, so lately opened up to the world, and so lately con- sidered one portion of the "Wild West," forms now one of our central States. It possesses a genial climate, good water, and a fair pupply of timber, and the broad prairies of the eastern por- tion of #the State are dotted with well-cultivated and well-stocked farms, that greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, while on all sides may be seen the evidences of thrift and comfort found only in a farming region. Wheat, oats and corn yield luxuriant returns, and all kinds of fruits and garden vegetables, incidental to this latitude, can be grown in profusion. Rarely will the traveler find a more magnificent scene, and more suggestive of real wealth and prosperity, than can be seen on these broad prairies,, when the fields of yellow grain or waving corn are waiting for the harvesters. Miles and ^iles away stretch the undulating plains, far-^aye, farther than the eye can see. ^ :N-i>r jffix. ^^ll,h raised roof, patent air brake couplers, all modern Sleeping Car improvements, — i>ting only upholstery,— and will accommo- 48 persons. The seat frames, are of iron, jack and seats and upper berths are wood . The seats let down, and the upper berths loiit up, the same as -those in the Palace Sleepers now in use on the first-class trains. The wood- work about the seats and upper berths is ash, ' -hed/ind varnished — without paint. most emigrants are provided with blankets, . iiiore or less bedding of their own, they are iuablod to get along very comfortably, and as no •xtra charge is made for the Sleepers — economic- ally. 9io. 66 Annex. [From page 32.] TIIR 09IAHA, moBKAHA & BT.ACK HlfiLH K. K. This road was commenced in ~:">, at Jackson, Neb., on the line of the Union he, seven miles west of Columbus, and 99 of Qmaha, and is now completed and run- to Norfolk, 46 miles north, at which place it ' cts with the railroad running up the Elk- I Valley from Fremont. [See page 29.] This now road runs through a rich agricultural and Tvell-sottled section of country, and, as its name implies, its objective point is the gold regions of the Black Hills, towards which it is being pushed with the usiial energy displayed by the Union Pacific management, by whom it is controlled. The line of this road has recently been changed and now runs from Coliimbus. ITEMS— Gold— It is reported that Sir Fran- cis Drake was the first discoverer of gold on tho Pacific Coast. He landed on the coast a few miles north of the Bay of San Francisco, in the suinnier of 1578, and reported to Queen Elizabeth : '• There is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and silver." "Yet the discovery was not followed up. ITEMS. — The Southern Pacific Koilroad reached El Paso, Texas, May 1 3th, 3 88 1. The Texas & Pacific connects with the Southern at Sierra Blanca, 91)6 miles east from El Paso, and runs into El Paso on the Southern's track. The first train of the Texas & Pacific rolled into El Paso, December 31, 1881. January 16th, the Southern— or the Galveston, Harrisburg & San Antonio Hallway —was completed to Marfa, 195 miles east of El Paso. The Mexican Central, had February 1 st, 1882, over 60 miles of track laid from El'Paso, south, into Old Mexico. The elevation of El Paso, is 3,i500 feet above sea level. Its population is about f»,000. El Paso Del Norte, Mexico, has a Mexican population of about 4,000. GRIP-SACK GUIDEOF COLO'RADO. A COMPLETE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE STATE. 4Sr WiU you please to read a few of the opinions of this book from Coloratloans— those mott competent to judge of its merits ? Indorsement by the Denver Board of Trade. George A. Crofutt, Esq.— Tho copy of your " Grip Sack Guide of Colorado," presented to this Board came duly to hand. I have to report to you that the Board of Directors, by resolution, pass- ed you a vote of thanks and expressed the opinion that it is the most complete, concise and truth- ful book ever published on the resources of our State, and give it their imqualified indorsement. To this I would add my own approval, assuring the tourist, emigrant and the public generally who desire a most complete encyclopedia of Colorado that thoy will find it full of interest from begin- ning to end. Yours respectfully, J. T. CORNFORTH, President Board of Trade. " The most complete, most thorough and reliable guide that has ever been offered to the community. The book, which has nearly 200 pages and near 100 illustrations, contains in a'con- densed form all that the traveler or the tenderfoot need to know about the wonderful land that sur- rounds us." — Bocky Moimtain News, "Denver, Colo. " The subject matter is carefully prepared, and a large amount of excellent matter is coi- densed in its columns. San Juan is treated in a fair manner."— Silver World, Lake City, Colo. "To the tourist and traveler the work is indispensable; in fact, none traveling over any jjortion of Colorado, can afford to do without it." — Tribune, Greeley, Colo. " Itis tho most complete, authentic and concise work ever written on the Centennial State." .—Elk Mountain Pilot, Irwin, Colo. " The Grip Sack is a model for all books of its kind. It is elegantly and copiously illustrated, and furnishes the most valuable information in tho most convenient form." — Gazette, Colorado Springs, Colo. " The most complete work ever published on this State, as the author has made personal t<:..ns tlirough the State and knows whereof he speaks, and is also a man capable of seeing and ribing:."—Ind6j^e?irf*7?f, Alamosa, Colo. -— " It is free from gloKs or 'taffy' so often found in works of this kind."— San Jtuin Herald. — " "Without hesitation we pronotince it the most perfect, complete and convenient work of tho kind that ever came under our notice. It is a work invaluable to those visiting the State, and of great interest and importance to everybody." — Mount-oineer , Colorado Springs, Colo. " Itis a i)erfect gem of typographical art and is chuck full of information, which makes it a • desirable book for tourists and others coming into the State, as it tells, to use its own language. i« worth seeing, where to see it, how to go, where to stop and what it costs."— Sierra Journal, Sack Guide is published by The Overland Publishing Co., of Omaha paper, magnificently illustrated, bound in fuU clotli and gold, for the L ..vatiou in flexil'i(; < kii"h. It contains a complete map (colored; of the State, ;: aews agents on ii 1 (T trains in the Western connti-y. K^ jjon't fail to buy th want to Tawiv all about the great Centennial State; tjie ■'' ' "ally' it of preciom metals in the world— OVER ^6,000,000. THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO 50 CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.00 ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE. AUG 4 1933 SEP 22 1933 OCT 2 4 2001 FEB 3 200Z 30Aug'56jt REC'D LD SEP 14 1956 22Mar*63TDi ■66 tRCB YC 39095 . ^4/^^:^ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY <\\ '.