UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 9.6.9.9.5.. CZassl. 
 
UNIVERSITY 
 
INTERIOR VIEW OF THE LARGE ORCHARD-HOUSE AT THE 
 CHILWELL NURSERIES, NOTTINGHAM. 
 
HINTS 
 
 CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT 
 
 OKCHARD-HOUSES, 
 
 BY J. R. PEARSON, 
 
 M 
 
 THE NURSERIES, CHILWELL, NEAR NOTTINGHAM. 
 
 SECOND H h$H JS9 EDITIO 
 
 
 
 LONDON - 
 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE 
 
 GARDENER OFFICE, 
 163, FLEET STREET, E.G. 
 
 1862. 
 
MM ; 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED AT THE HORTICULTURAL PRESS, 
 17, JOHNSON'S COURT, FLEET STREET. 
 
PEEEACE 
 
 TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 THE first edition of this little book was 
 written under the conviction that erro- 
 neous ideas of the construction and ma- 
 nagement of orchard-houses were calcu- 
 lated to retard the spread of this delight- 
 ful mode of cultivating fruit trees. An 
 opinion appears to be prevalent, that any 
 kind of a wooden shed covered with glass 
 is an orchard-house, and that any or no 
 management would have for its result 
 the production of a good crop of fruit. 
 Whilst travelling in Scotland I heard of 
 houses, the sides of which, being made of 
 half-inch boards, and these not closely 
 joined, afforded such imperfect protec- 
 tion, that, in that severe climate, even 
 the trees were killed during winter. Not 
 only in Scotland, but in England, many 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 of these structures have been erected in 
 such a rough and imperfect manner, that 
 they are inefficient for the purpose they 
 were intended to serve, and are anything 
 but an ornament to the gardens in which 
 they are placed. Knowing that every 
 failure was a fact eagerly welcomed by 
 those who oppose everything new, I wished 
 to show that before the system could be 
 fairly tried, it was necessary to have a 
 house adapted for the purpose, and a cer- 
 tain amount of information on the part 
 of the person having the care of it. The 
 gradual improvement which has taken 
 place in building orchard-houses shows 
 that these impressions were not without 
 foundation. The success of my little book 
 was as gratifying as it was unexpected. 
 
 CHILWELL, NEAR NOTTINGHAM, 
 August, 1862. 
 
CONSTKUCTION AND MANAGEMENT 
 
 OF 
 
 - OECHAED-HOUSES. 
 
 SINCE these useful structures were first invented, 
 a great number have been built in various parts 
 of the country, and though many have answered 
 admirably, I have been surprised to hear of some 
 partial or entire failures. When our house was 
 first erected, we had no man on the grounds who 
 had ever grown a fruit tree in a pot ; and yet we 
 had a good crop of Peaches and Nectarines the 
 first year. Indeed the whole culture appears so 
 simple, that I have been quite surprised to learn 
 of difficulty being experienced by a person capable 
 of growing any plant in a pot. It is after all a 
 little unreasonable to expect that every person 
 
2 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 should find easy what appears simple to our- 
 selves. Anything is easy when it is known how 
 to do it. Few persons fail to grow a Geranium 
 or a Fuchsia in a tolerable manner, because their 
 first attempt was made amongst friends who knew 
 how to direct them. If they had to begin with- 
 out assistance the culture of a plant which they 
 had never seen before, and had but little ac- 
 quaintance with the growth of plants in" general, 
 the chances of success would not be greatly in 
 their favour. Though Vines have been so long 
 cultivated in this country, and vineries are now 
 so common, how few persons grow good crops of 
 Grapes every year ! yet those who know how, tell 
 us what is quite true, that nothing is so easy to 
 fruit as a Black Hamburgh Vine ; and that if 
 planted in good soil, nothing but bad manage- 
 ment can prevent its fruiting. When we think 
 that few persons know anything of the manage- 
 ment of Peach trees, still less of their culture 
 under glass, it is not surprising that the first 
 time they attempt to grow them some want of 
 success should attend their efforts. No oral or 
 written instructions will make up for the lack of 
 practical knowledge, because it is impossible to 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 3 
 
 guard against or foresee every possible mistake. 
 But yet I have thought a few plain directions, 
 founded on our own experience, and intended to 
 guard against the mistakes that I have seen com- 
 mitted, might be useful. Let us, then, commence 
 by saying a few words as to the construction of 
 an orchard-house. 
 
 HOW TO BUILD AN ORCHARD -HOUSE. 
 
 When the idea of growing fruit trees in glass 
 houses occurred to Mr. Rivers, it was necessary 
 for him to find some other plan of erecting them 
 than in the costly mode greenhouses were gene- 
 rally built; and he therefore invented cheap 
 wooden houses, which his own workmen erected. 
 These, under his management, succeeded so well, 
 that he wrote his interesting little book, "The 
 Orchard-House," and recommended the same 
 manner of construction to others. His state- 
 ments of the very low price at which a house 
 could be constructed, caused considerable excite- 
 ment amongst the builders ; and the natural re- 
 sult was, a conviction of the necessity of altering 
 their plans and charges. A good house may be 
 
4 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 built at a half or third of what it would have cost 
 some little time ago. The readers of " The Cot- 
 tage Gardener" may recollect, that Mr. Rivers 
 stated his large house, covering about 2400 feet 
 square, cost 140, or Is. 2d. per foot square of 
 ground covered. This house is built on oak posts 
 set in the ground, and is without raised beds, 
 paved walks, or indeed any description of brick- 
 work whatever. I have just built a house of which 
 the frontispiece is a view of the interior. The 
 figure at page 45 represents the exterior. It covers 
 2700 feet square, with 18 inches of brickwork 
 above the surface; the walks are paved with 
 black and buff quarries, the bricks laid in Port- 
 land cement, and the whole finished in a style fit 
 for any garden, at a cost of 230, or about Is. Sd. 
 a square foot of ground covered. It is therefore 
 unnecessary to have an ugly orchard-house to 
 obtain a cheap one, or one that depends on 
 wooden posts set in the ground for its stability. 
 An orchard-house should not be less than 20 feet, 
 nor more than 30 feet in width. No fire being 
 used to keep out frost, a wide house, containing 
 a large body of air, will cool more slowly than a 
 rrow one; and plants blooming in a 20-feet 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 5 
 
 house would be safe from frost, when those in one 
 14 feet wide might be in danger. 
 
 If a house be more than 30 feet, it must have a 
 ridge-and-furrow roof, which, though necessary 
 when large spaces have to be covered, is more 
 expensive and much heavier in appearance. To 
 grow fruit of fine flavour, light is the great requi- 
 site ; and that the sun should shine as equally as 
 possible on both sides, it is desirable that your 
 house be span-roofed, if possible, having one end 
 towards the south. The Peach, like the Geranium, 
 is attacked by the green smother fly or aphis ; if 
 you have to smoke a badly-constructed house, you 
 will wish it better built, and in a very cold spring 
 the advantages of close-shutting windows must be 
 acknowledged. An orchard-house should be built 
 so that it could be turned into a vinery, green- 
 house, or hothouse, if at any time it might be de- 
 sired to do so ; and I have no hesitation in saying 
 the span-roof is the best form for either the growth 
 of Vines or plants. Vines, in a lean-to house of 
 any height, require a ladder to prune or gather 
 the fruit, and there is always a tendency to pro- 
 duce the finest foliage and fruit on the upper part 
 of the rods; whilst, by being trained across a 
 
6 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 span-roof, the sap is checked, the growth rendered 
 more equal, and both Vines and fruit are more 
 within reach. Plants, in a lean-to house, invariably 
 draw towards the light ; whilst in a span-roofed 
 house, they have the advantage of light on all sides. 
 It will be seen from the above remarks that 
 I have no intention of showing in detail how an 
 orchard-house ought to be built, mine are only 
 "hints" as to their construction. Having had 
 twelve houses erected within the last few years, 
 each being au improvement on the former ones ; 
 and seeing that Mr. Foster who built them and 
 is largely engaged in their manufacture, is con- 
 stantly making improvements in their construc- 
 tion, I have arrived at the conclusion that ama- 
 teur building is a mistake. It appears advisable 
 to take advantage of experience acquired at other 
 people's expense rather than make mistakes at 
 our own cost. The houses built by Mr. Foster, 
 of Beeston, near Nottingham, are by far the best 
 I have hitherto met with. They are constructed 
 of all sizes, adapted to the requirements of the 
 smallest or the largest establishments, and they 
 are not only of an ornamental, but a durable 
 character. The mode by which Mr, Foster ties the 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 7 
 
 span of his houses, and renders them firm in their 
 construction, is particularly meritorious, and far 
 superior to anything -I have yet seen for strength 
 and elegance. It is perfectly novel in design, and 
 has been secured by a patent. Exception has 
 been taken to my strongly-expressed dislike of 
 lean-to houses by several practical gardeners for 
 whose judgment I have a high respect. It must 
 be admitted they have advantages for very early 
 forcing in some situations. A thick brick wall 
 forming the north side of a vinery in a very cold 
 and windy district will economise artificial heat, 
 and sunk pathways in front, narrow passages, and 
 low roofs will not much inconvenience a gardener 
 in his shirt sleeves and cloth cap. A conservatory 
 or orchard-house ought to be constructed, so that 
 ladies may enjoy a walk in them with no more 
 feeling of constraint than in an open garden ; to be 
 able to cut a flower, reach a Peach, or water a 
 plant without difficulty, is essential to the enjoy- 
 ment of such houses. It is not sufficient to be able 
 to get inside, exclaim How beautiful ! and wish to 
 be out again as soon as possible. Similar objec- 
 tions may be urged against covering Peach walls 
 with glass; a covered wall is no place for enjoyment. 
 
8 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 The frontispiece is taken from a photograph of 
 our large house 30 feet wide, of which fig. 1 is a 
 
 FIG. 1 
 
 PQ 
 
 4-t 
 
 o 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 section. There are three paved walks, bordered 
 by round-headed tiles, which have a very neat ap- 
 pearance. The iron pillars rise out of the beds, 
 and carry both purlin and rafter, as seen inj%. 2. 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 Head of Column carrying Purlin, and into which the End of 
 Tie-rod is screwed. 
 
 The upper part is also tapped to receive one end 
 of the tie-rod, which screws into it; the other ex- 
 tremity is represented in fig. 3. 
 
10 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 11 
 
 MOVEABLE HOUSES. 
 
 Having often heard the remark, "If I were 
 
 FIG. 4. 
 
 Bracket. In moveable houses this is part of the iron casting 
 on which the house stands. 
 
 living on my own property I would have an 
 orchard-house immediately," I have great pleasure 
 
1 2 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 in calling attention to Foster's patent moveable 
 house on iron supports. It is as strong as any 
 house can be built, and yet may be taken in 
 pieces and removed without difficulty. Fig. 5 is 
 a section of one of these houses 14 feet wide, the 
 
 FIG. 5. 
 
 Section of House 14 feet wide. 
 
 path being in the centre. The feet, pillar, and 
 bracket are all cast in one piece. The roof is 
 made in separate lights, and also the ends and 
 sides, so that there is no occasion to break a pane 
 of glass in removing the whole structure. I have 
 just had a house erected on this principle, 60 feet 
 by 24 feet, heated by six rows of pipes. It is 
 intended for a conservatory, and is a beautiful 
 building; compared with Paxton's "Houses for 
 the Million " its advantages will be acknowledged. 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 13 
 
 Sir Joseph is probably not answerable for the 
 illustration which appears in the gardening perio- 
 dicals, in which a triangular greenhouse is so 
 ingeniously filled with six trees, reminding us in- 
 voluntarily of the three degrees of comparison. 
 Supposing the trees figured to be Orange trees, 
 what a pity the artist did not give us a represen- 
 tation of the gardener sponging the leaves of one 
 of the outer plants, or clipping its shoots to pre- 
 vent them touching the glass, which they are in 
 great danger of doing. His position would appear 
 less comfortable than that of the jolly old gentle- 
 man in the middle walk, who seems so con- 
 tentedly viewing his well-proportioned trees. 
 
 However appropriate as vineries they must be 
 most inconvenient for the growth of plants. 
 
 A friend has just sent me a pamphlet entitled 
 " A Handbook of Vine and Fruit Culture, as 
 adapted to Sir Joseph Paxton's Patent Hot- 
 houses, by Samuel Hereman." It contains some 
 extraordinary designs of houses filled with " im- 
 possible-to-be-cultivated plants ;" it pre-supposes 
 an immense amount of ignorance and credulity 
 on the part of the public, to give a section of a 
 house formed of two eight-feet lights, placed at 
 
1 4 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 an angle of 35, and represent it as containing 
 seventeen rows of plants, as at page 9. At 
 page 10 the three degrees of comparison are re- 
 produced. At page 17, a house is figured, the back 
 wall of which 6 feet high is furnished with shelves 
 six in number, one above another like books in 
 a library a most capital idea for a Chinese gar- 
 den, and admirably adapted for liliputian trees. 
 Page 18 represents a most ingenious house, a 
 shelf overhead, 6 feet from the ground, four 
 shelves of plants on the back wall, and three rows 
 in the path, four rows on a front stage, and a 
 hanging-basket all in a house 7 feet wide ; but the 
 chef d'oeuvre of these very original designs will 
 be found at page 50, in which a lady, a fountain, 
 twelve birds, two Vines, two Peach trees, a hang- 
 ing-basket filled with Ferns, and a plant in a pot, 
 all find accommodation in a house, which, from 
 the scale, appears 20 feet wide and 13 feet in 
 height. I cannot congratulate Sir Joseph Paxton 
 on his supposed connection with this remarkable 
 and very amusing publication. 
 
 Mr. Foster's houses on iron supports are really 
 as good and durable as those built of brick; the 
 effect of the crossed-iron rods is very superior to 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 15 
 
 the straight ones in the house figured in Mr. 
 Rivers' new edition of " The Orchard-House," a 
 section of which I reproduce. A house with a 
 
 FIG. 6. 
 
 Section of Mr. Rivers' House. 
 
 number of parallel tie-rods has the appearance of 
 a covered drying ground, and is suggestive of the 
 laundry. Perhaps this idea occurred to the artist 
 who made the section of Mr. Rivers' large house, 
 page 25 of the last edition of his work, as the rods 
 are there not represented. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF AN ORCHARD-HOUSE. 
 
 After your house is built, if not before, you will 
 have to determine the fruit to be grown in it. 
 Tastes will differ, of course, but the Peach, 
 Nectarine, and Apricot may be considered the 
 
1 6 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 aristocracy of the orchard-house. Plums bear 
 enormous crops, but are not increased in flavour. 
 Pears are very handsome, but ours were so in- 
 ferior in flavour, that we discarded them. Both 
 Plums and Pears might be grown in the house till 
 all danger from frost was over, and then turned 
 out to grow and ripen their fruit, which would 
 give more room to the Peaches and Apricots. I 
 will suppose Peaches only to be grown, and con- 
 fine my remarks to them, as the same manage- 
 ment applies alike to Nectarines and Apricots. 
 Buy your plants, if possible, early in the autumn ; 
 you will not only have a better choice, but plants 
 potted late seldom set their fruit well the follow- 
 ing season. 
 
 After the first year, if it is intended to pot or 
 only top-dress the trees, do it before the leaves are 
 quite off, or as soon after as possible. Choose a 
 good turfy loam (the top spit from a clay pasture 
 is the best), and add to it about a fourth of rotten 
 manure : this will be better if mixed some months 
 beforehand. Pot very firmly. If your soil be 
 light, you can hardly make it too solid. Of course, 
 the soil must be moderately dry. No plant enjoys 
 tempered mud. A good rule by which to judge of 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 1 7 
 
 the state of soil is this : if a handful, grasped 
 firmly, retains its shape, but separates when 
 allowed to drop on the floor, it will not be too 
 dry or too wet. If Peaches are growing in bor- 
 ders, or against the walls, it is very necessary to 
 keep the ground firm about their roots ; trample 
 the soil well when in a dry state, and if the soil be 
 light, use a rammer to make it solid. If in the 
 autumn any copper-coloured fly be seen feeding 
 on the Peach shoots, paint the trees infested with 
 i Ib. of soft soap, i Ib. of sulphur, 2 quarts of 
 tobacco water, 2 quarts of soft water, and a little 
 clay to thicken the mixture, taking care not to 
 injure the buds during the operation. If the trees 
 are free from insects, and have not been infested 
 with red spider, no dressing will be required. 
 The mixture of Gishurst Compound, before recom- 
 mended, has been found injurious. The cow- 
 manure usually employed to dress trees on walls 
 gives rise to a species of mildew in the orchard- 
 house, clay is preferable. When the plants have 
 been painted, place them closely together in the 
 middle of the house, and cover the pots well with 
 leaves, hay, or straw, to keep them safely from 
 hard frost. During frost the house had better be 
 
 "CT 
 
1 8 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 closely shut, and open only in mild weather. If 
 the soil in the pots be moist when covered with 
 leaves in autumn, they will probably not require 
 watering more than once or twice during the 
 winter ; if not dry as dust, the plants will be none 
 the worse for having been kept without much water 
 whilst destitute of leaves. 
 
 When the buds are swelling, prune the trees if 
 they require it, and put them in the places which 
 they are intended to occupy during summer. In 
 pruning, care should be taken to cut to a wood- 
 bud, otherwise all the fruit on a leafless branch 
 will fall afterwards. However pruned, a few 
 branches will be in this leafless state at the time 
 of blooming; these may be at once cut back to 
 where there are leaves. If the plants have been 
 properly grown the previous year, they will re- 
 quire little or no cutting. Stopping during sum- 
 mer answers the same purpose as pruning in 
 spring that is, keeping the plant compact and of 
 the shape preferred. Many persons think they 
 must commence the culture of every fruit tree by 
 pruning it, and because fresh-planted trees are 
 often better for having a few of their branches 
 shortened to counterbalance the mutilation of their 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 19 
 
 roots inevitable from transplantation, they think 
 the same treatment necessary for a tree established 
 in a pot, whose short, well-ripened shoots are full 
 of blossom-buds. The pruning of Peaches, in par- 
 ticular, had better be deferred till the plants are 
 almost in bloom, as it is very difficult to distin- 
 guish between wood and flower-buds earlier in the 
 season. It is generally supposed safe to cut to 
 triple buds; but some kinds have the habit of 
 producing triple flower-buds, so it is safer to 
 wait till they are easily recognised by their colour. 
 The later your plants bloom the better ; the 
 house should, therefore, be well ventilated, and 
 kept cool till the plants are in bloom. From the 
 period the flowers are fairly out till the fruit is set 
 is the critical time of orchard-house management. 
 Let us suppose the house all in order, and the 
 plants coming into bloom, cultivate them as if they 
 were a number of Geraniums. If it is warm out of 
 doors that is, if the wind is soft and mild venti- 
 late freely; but do not, because the sun shines, 
 subject your trees to a cold east wind. It is often 
 safe to open the west side of the house when it is 
 advisable to keep the ventilators on the east side 
 closed. If there be any sign of smother- fly not a 
 
20 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 day must be lost in getting rid of it, or you may 
 give up all hopes of Peaches for one season. These 
 pests increase so rapidly, and the Peach leaf is so 
 tender and liable to curl, that great mischief is 
 done before you are aware ; and though you may 
 recover the plants, the fruit is gone. Tobacco 
 smoke will kill the green smother-fly, and so will 
 tobacco water, but the latter must not be used 
 whilst the plants are in bloom. If the copper- 
 coloured aphis is seen, smoke at once ; but do not 
 trust to smoke ; look the plants over, and if you 
 see any insects alive, touch them with a small 
 painter's brush that has been dipped in a mixture 
 prepared in the following manner : Boil Ib. of 
 quassia in a gallon of soft water for ten minutes, 
 strain, and add to the water Ib. of soft soap. No 
 species of aphis can withstand this application. 
 
 I have lately heard a very high character of 
 the tobacco paper prepared by Griffiths and 
 Aviss, of Coventry. It is very cheap, and said 
 to be far more efficacious than tobacco for fumi- 
 gating. I have ordered a large quantity, and 
 shall be happy to let any one have a little to try 
 its effects. 
 
 Let me repeat : you must keep your plants free 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 21 
 
 from insects. Nothing is easier, if taken in time. 
 Of course, this is not written for gardeners ; they 
 know that a man who has a house full of plants 
 infested with insects, is no gardener, or an idle 
 one, or so foolish as to undertake more than he 
 can carry out, in which case he will in time lose 
 both place and character for ability. 
 
 As strong tobacco smoke will sometimes prove 
 injurious to Peach blooms, it is better to prevent 
 the necessity of fumigation if possible till the fruit 
 is set. If the plants are kept clean till they are 
 in flower it may generally be avoided. 
 
 Next to allowing the Peach to be devoured by 
 aphis, the non- fertilisation of the blooms is the 
 greatest cause of failure. Most persons know 
 that the farina or pollen of the stamens must 
 come in contact with the pistil, if perfect fruit is 
 to be produced. To this end Providence has 
 placed honey in the nectaries of flowers, as an 
 attraction to bees and other insects, which, in 
 buzzing about, distribute the pollen. 
 
 A moment's consideration of this subject will 
 explain the cause of many failures. Of course 
 the farina cannot fly if not in a dry state ; a damp 
 atmosphere, therefore, tends to prevent the setting 
 
22 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 of fruit. It will be an advantage to have your 
 plants in bloom, when there is a chance of the 
 weather being warm enough to allow of ventila- 
 tion, and the assistance of bees, to fertilise the 
 flowers. The span-roofed house affording the 
 means of ventilation near the ground on both 
 sides, the whole length of the house is much 
 superior to the ugly glazed sheds, called lean-to 
 houses, generally built. If orchard-house trees 
 are in good health, and the weather be warm 
 when they are in bloom, and bees in abundance, 
 they will probably set three times the fruit they 
 can bring to perfection ; but as it is better to leave 
 nothing undone to insure success, we always fer- 
 tilise the flowers by touching them with a camel- 
 hair pencil, in the middle of a warm sunny day. 
 It takes but a very short time to go over every 
 plant in a large house. It is the opinion of many 
 besides Mr. Darwin, that not only is the pollen of 
 some varieties of a species stronger than others, 
 but that when applied to a different plant or 
 variety, it is more efficacious. In using a perfectly 
 dry camel-hair pencil, it will be found, that though 
 the farina of each bloom may be distributed, but 
 little can be carried away by the brush. Let us, 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 23 
 
 then, take a lesson from Nature. Pull off a bloom 
 and open it lengthwise, and it will be found sticky 
 with honey in the inside ; insert the brush, and 
 it will then, when afterwards used, be soon 
 covered with pollen, and you will thus cross 
 variety with variety. If the petals soon begin to 
 drop and leave the base of the flowers attached to 
 the tree, you have been successful, and may hope 
 for a crop. I have been thus explicit, because 
 aware that this is a matter of importance, and 
 often neglected. 
 
 A slight blow on the stem of a tree will pro- 
 duce the same effect, but with less certainty. In 
 doing this use the hand only, for fear of injury to 
 the bark, which might induce gumming. 
 
 How frequently, after a wet blooming season, 
 have people been surprised that their Apple and 
 Pear trees have such a poor crop of fruit ! The 
 trees were so full of bloom, and there was no 
 frost ; how could it be ? It rained every day, 
 and the farina could never leave the stamens. 
 Or perhaps the Peach trees in the forcing-house 
 are without fruit. No wonder ; whilst they were 
 in bloom the place was hot and damp, and no 
 insects stirring. Let us suppose the fruit safe, 
 
24 ORCHARD- HOUSES. 
 
 the petals most of them fallen : a dry atmosphere 
 will now be injurious. Syringe the trees with soft 
 water early in the day, so that the leaves may not 
 be wet when a hot sun shines on them. As the 
 temperature increases, do the same about four 
 o'clock, and shut the house up while warm. Why 
 should you lose the advantage of the heat that 
 the house has acquired, by giving air all night, as 
 recommended by some persons ? The plants will 
 soon show you, by their appearance, that they, 
 equally with the Vine, enjoy the still warm and 
 damp atmosphere, and the red spider will have 
 but little chance of thriving. If you put half a 
 pint of tobacco water into a large watering-pan of 
 soft water when syringing, say once a-week, it 
 will be found a great preventive of insects, though 
 it would not be strong enough to kill them if you 
 had allowed their increase. If any leaves are 
 perceived having a mottled appearance on their 
 upper surface, there will probably be found red 
 spider on the under side. If they cannot be seen 
 with the naked eye, a lens will be an assistance. 
 Syringe with plain water first to wet the foliage, 
 and then syringe the under side of the leaves with 
 2 ozs. of Gishurst to a gallon of soft water, and 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 25 
 
 wash it off well the next morning.* In using 
 either Gishurstor soft soap, always take care that 
 it is well dissolved in the water, or it is sure to do 
 harm to leaves and young shoots, Gishurst being 
 a soap, it will not dissolve in hard water. I believe 
 a want of attention to this has caused injury, 
 where the quantity used has not been in excess. 
 When the fruit commences to ripen, all syringing 
 must be discontinued an additional reason for 
 keeping the plants perfectly clean up to this period. 
 The plants being in a growing state, it will be 
 necessary to determine the shape they are to 
 assume. I prefer a conical form, some admire a 
 bush, and others a close-growing tree like a spike 
 of Hollyhock flowers. Whatever may be the 
 form determined upon, it is easily given by stop- 
 ping all those branches which are growing too 
 fast, and leaving those only which are growing in 
 the desired direction. A branch may be stopped 
 when it has made but three or four leaves ; it will 
 then, in all probability, recommence growing. If 
 so, after three or four leaves are formed stop it 
 again. This should not be repeated a third time, if 
 
 * Never use Gishurst Compound to growing plants of greater 
 strength than this i.e., 2 ozs. to the gallon of water. 
 
26 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 it can be avoided, because the shoots often do not 
 ripen enough to form good wood-buds : and the 
 whole branch, though full of blossom, is lost the 
 following season for want of leaves to draw up 
 the sap. 
 
 The trees should not be allowed to carry too 
 much fruit whilst young, or they will be weakened, 
 and the fruit be inferior in size and quality. The 
 first season twelve to fifteen will be quite enough 
 to bring to perfection; but they must not be 
 thinned to that number at once. As much fruit 
 drops during the process of stoning, they should 
 be thinned a second time when they are a little 
 bigger than marbles. Till the middle of June, 
 move the pots occasionally, to prevent the trees 
 rooting into the border ; after that time let them 
 remain quiet till the fruit is ripe. A few root- 
 lets in the soil below the pots will do good, but 
 if these become too strong, it is no advantage 
 to the fruit, and an injury to the tree when 
 required to be moved. Some of my finest Peaches 
 have been gathered from trees which have never 
 rooted through the pots. When the fruit is the 
 size of walnuts say the middle of June, give 
 them manure water once a-week not drainings 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 27 
 
 from a manure yard, or guano water, but made 
 in the following manner : Take a mixture of 
 sheep, horse, and cow-manure, in equal parts, or 
 any of them, if you cannot get all three, and 
 put it into a trough or old tub ; then cover it 
 with scalding water, to kill all insects and their 
 eggs ; afterwards add water, and let it settle, 
 using the supernatant liquor. When you add 
 fresh water, stir it up from the bottom, and let it 
 settle again. The value of these manures, if em- 
 ployed separately, is in the order I have placed 
 them, 
 
 I have often used this compound in quite a 
 thick state, and I think with advantage. Of 
 course it leaves a deposit on the surface of the 
 soil, roots form under it in large numbers, and 
 it checks evaporation. If the surface becomes 
 too compact and will not admit water, it is broken 
 by stirring with a pointed stick. 
 
 Never give water until it is required, and then 
 give enough to reach the bottom of the pot. A 
 want of attention to this rule has probably caused 
 the death of more plants than any other mis- 
 management. 
 In a well-constructed house, there is little, if 
 
28 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 any, danger from frost; but in our changeable 
 climate, it is difficult to foresee what may happen. 
 In 1859, I think, a frost of very great severity 
 occurred whilst Peaches were in full bloom. The 
 house in which our fruiting plants were growing 
 (the first erected here) has wooden sides, and 
 spaces between the boards; one end is also of 
 wood. I now think it not only ugly, but a very 
 imperfect protection ; yet we Jiave never failed to 
 raise a crop in it every season. But the morning 
 after the frost alluded to occurred, no one, on 
 entering the house, would have given much for 
 the chances of a crop. The trees had a very 
 wretched appearance; but after being syringed 
 with cold water before sunrise (on the same prin- 
 ciple that dictates rubbing a frozen nose with 
 snow), they were none the worse for what had 
 happened. 
 
 Having given these few plain directions for the 
 management of orchard-house trees, some opinion 
 may perhaps be expected as to the relative advan- 
 tages of pot culture, and planting the trees in the 
 open borders of the house. I am trying both 
 plans, and at present give the preference to pots. 
 The Peach tree is so easily fed by manure water, 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 29 
 
 that the fruit from a tree in a pot is quite as large 
 as that from one planted out. In a cold summer 
 like that of 1860, the roots in pots were warmer 
 than those in beds, even where raised above the 
 surface of the surrounding land, and the fruit 
 generally of a finer flavour. Trees in pots can be 
 moved about, placed nearer or wider apart, and 
 are less in the way when the house requires 
 painting in short, they are more conveniently 
 managed on every occasion than when growing in 
 a bed. Fruit trees always make wood enough, 
 often too much, if their roots are unconfined, so 
 that, except requiring less water, there appears 
 no advantage in turning them out of pots. 
 
 In a dry warm house ants are often a great 
 annoyance, eating the stamens and ovary out of 
 Peach blossoms, and afterwards attacking the 
 fruit. When trees are trained to a wall the ants 
 will mount in spite of every precaution. 
 
 One of the advantages of cultivating Peaches in 
 pots, is the facility of destroying ants' nests by 
 hot water. 
 
 Many gardeners will be glad to know that if 
 before the fruit is ripe a mixture of treacle and 
 arsenic, be put on small pieces of glass and placed 
 
30 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 near their runs, it will be eagerly taken and soon 
 lessen the number of these troublesome insects. 
 
 Another question has often been put to me, 
 Will potted trees last that is, continue in a 
 healthy state ? I have seen trees which have never 
 been repotted, but only top-dressed for nine 
 years, and which are as healthy as ever. My 
 belief is, that the average life of orchard-house 
 trees will be greater than those trained on open 
 walls, subject as these latter are to so many 
 injurious influences. The Orange has long been 
 cultivated in pots and tubs, and trees are in 
 existence, in perfect health, hundreds of years 
 old, as all know who have visited Versailles. As 
 an experiment, and to show what might be done 
 with a Peach tree, I had a small plant of Royal 
 George Peach potted in what is called a two- quart 
 pot : it was not allowed to root through the 
 bottom, and it was well fed by manure water; 
 thirteen Peaches were ripened, and these were 
 amongst the best fruit in the house. Early in 
 the autumn, before it shed its leaves, it was taken 
 up, all the earth shaken from its roots, and placed 
 again in the same pot, and it has now seven fine 
 Peaches on it. The plant has only three small 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 31 
 
 shoots, is about 18 inches in height, and is in 
 better health than last year. 
 
 In all cases, especially in reference to luxuries, 
 the cost of production is a necessary or reasonable 
 inquiry. In this respect there is no comparison, 
 not only with fruit that requires forcing, but with 
 wall fruit. A house 60 feet by 20 feet wide, costs 
 about 100, and will produce, say 150 dozen a-year. 
 This is a moderate calculation. There is no reason 
 to expect failure in a well-managed house. How 
 much wall would be required to give the same 
 results with certainty ? Then, in respect to flavour, 
 in the average of seasons, there is no comparison 
 between wall and orchard-house fruit. A Peach 
 or Apricot which has only one side exposed to the 
 sun, can never be evenly ripened, nor, conse- 
 quently, of the highest flavour. How stupid it 
 must be to perpetuate this in fruit-houses, as is 
 often done with Peaches on a trellis. I have 
 heard the observation, "Why, these are like Cape 
 Peaches, not at all like English ones; they are 
 so full of juice, and so much higher in flavour 
 than any I have tasted in England : " the reason 
 being that the sun had shone all round the tree, 
 and the fruit had been protected by the foliage. 
 
32 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 Some persons pull off the leaves from their Vines, 
 to expose the Grapes to the sun ; and instead of 
 well-coloured fruit, get " Red Black Hamburghs," 
 with thick skins. 
 
 There is a prevalent idea that an orchard-house 
 ought to be heated to render it safe from frost, 
 and to ripen the wood in autumn. I should be 
 very sorry if this were generally thought neces- 
 sary, having had good crops every year myself. 
 I cannot, of course, advise any one to incur an 
 outlay in the first instance equal to half the cost 
 of the house, beside the after expense of fuel. 
 Fires require much and constant attention, as all 
 know who have had the care of them. The great 
 enjoyment of an orchard-house is the agreeable 
 temperature, the shelter from cold winds, and 
 absence of damp artificial heat. If the wet and 
 sunless summer of 1860, followed by the terrible 
 winter of the same year, did not prevent our 
 trees bearing a good crop of fine fruit, why should 
 we fear for the future ? To this reasoning may 
 be added, that if you provide the means of heating 
 your or chard -house, you afford a great tempta- 
 tion to your gardener to fill it with tender plants, 
 which require a little heat to keep out frosts. 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 33 
 
 This will forward the blooming-season, and pro- 
 bably result in a loss of the fruit-crop. A Peach 
 tree grown in a properly-constructed house must 
 ripen its wood, unless very crowded or shaded by 
 Vines. In this part of England fire is quite un- 
 necessary to mature the wood of a Peach tree 
 under glass, and certainly is injurious to the 
 flavour of the fruit. A Peach, to be in perfection, 
 should not be too ripe ; one that falls from the 
 tree, though unbruised, is never in first-rate con- 
 dition. Some kinds, of which Crawford's Early 
 is an instance, will hang till quite woolly. The 
 experienced eye detects at a glance when a fruit 
 ought to be gathered; to feel a Peach is to 
 spoil it. 
 
 Amongst the many advantages afforded by the 
 orchard-house, certainly not the least is the pro- 
 tection of the dormant fruit-buds during a severe 
 winter. Many a gardener covers his trees with 
 great care during spring, when all chance of a 
 crop has perhaps been destroyed for months. 
 After a very severe winter, on examination of a 
 blossom-bud before it is expanded, it will be per- 
 ceived that the pistil is dead or injured, and 
 though the tree may be full of flower, of course 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
34 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 there will be little or no fruit. But it is probable 
 that where there has been no apparent injury, the 
 embryo bloom may have suffered. In the autumn 
 of 1859, I had six Apricot trees, which were all 
 cultivated alike, and potted at the same time ; three 
 were placed in the orchard-house, and three on a 
 bed in the open garden, and the pots were covered 
 a foot thick with leaves. The following spring 
 the latter were removed to the house, and they 
 bloomed as well as those which had been under 
 cover daring winter; no difference could be per- 
 ceived in the appearance of the flowers; but 
 whilst the fruit on the protected plants had to be 
 severely thinned, two of those which had been 
 left in the open garden were entirely without fruit, 
 and the third bore only four Apricots. 
 
 Now let me say a word to those gardeners who, 
 having learnt their business, are afraid to com- 
 mence a culture they do not understand, or who 
 really do not believe in the orchard-house. What- 
 ever you may do or say, they will be built. Gentle- 
 men will not be satisfied to be without fruit, when 
 their neighbours have plenty; or to have two or 
 three kinds only, instead of a variety of sorts, 
 lasting over a long period, and varying in appear- 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 35 
 
 ance and quality. You will find it pleasanter, in 
 cold spring weather, to be under glass, than nailing 
 trees against a wall. For four or five months the 
 orchard-house is no trouble. If walls already 
 exist, they will be very convenient for choice Pears, 
 and you will have a chance, by the same means, 
 of furnishing Ribston Pippin Apples, White Cal- 
 ville, &c., fit to be eaten. In advertisements we 
 shall soon see, " Wanted, a Gardener familiar with 
 Orchard-house Culture." These structures, being 
 without fire heat, are such agreeable places to 
 walk in during cold east winds, and afford so 
 much comfort to the aged and infirm, that they 
 will be built, and young gardeners will do wisely 
 to learn how to manage them. 
 
 To nurserymen I would say, though orchard- 
 houses are a luxury to others, they are a necessity 
 to you. None know better the difficulty experi- 
 enced in procuring Peaches and Nectarines true 
 to nams, leaving out of the question those rogues 
 who will purposely substitute one kind for another, 
 how few have the means of fruiting all the varieties 
 of Peaches and Nectarines on walls. Without 
 specimen plants to furnish buds, how is it possible 
 to keep a stock tolerably correct to name ? Work- 
 
36 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 ing from plants growing in the nursery, a mistake 
 once made, will perhaps be perpetuated for years. 
 If you buy a new variety, and have no means of 
 proving it, you may propagate and sell large num- 
 bers of a perfectly worthless kind, or one quite 
 unsuited to your climate. Without an orchard- 
 house, it is impossible to compare leaf with leaf, 
 blossom with blossom the only way of gaining 
 an intimate acquaintance with fruit trees. Whilst 
 walking through a large nursery last summer, I 
 was able to convince the foreman, who accom- 
 panied me, that the majority of his Peach and 
 Nectarine trees were incorrect. His reply was, 
 " Well, I am not to blame ; Master buys largely, 
 and I have to work from plants remaining unsold: 
 we have no means of fruiting them." 
 
 HOW TO DISTINGUISH THE DIFFERENT 
 VARIETIES OP PEACHES AND NECTA- 
 RINES. 
 
 There is probably no tribe of fruit trees the 
 varieties of which are so little known by culti- 
 vators in general as Peaches and Nectarines. The 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 37 
 
 fruit of many kinds resemble each other so much 
 in appearance, that they are difficult to distinguish 
 when removed from the tree. 
 
 From the uncertainty of our climate, good fruit 
 is rarely seen on open walls, perhaps not oftener 
 than once in three years. So many trees in 
 gentlemen's gardens are incorrectly named, that 
 it is no matter oi surprise few can distinguish a 
 Peach with certainty. I was lately shown a num- 
 ber of Peach trees full of fruit by a nobleman's 
 gardener, all named Royal George, and asked to 
 account for their differing in quality so markedly, 
 as they were all growing on the same wall. He 
 would hardly believe me at first, when I told him 
 there were in reality three kinds. By observing 
 the leaves, blossom, and fruit, almost any variety 
 may be named without difficulty. 
 
 Peaches and Nectarines are divided into two 
 classes by their blooms, and into three by their 
 leaves. The fruit may also be described as sepa- 
 rating easily from the stone, or firmly adhering 
 to it ; the former are termed melting, the latter 
 clingstone. The blossoms are large and hand- 
 some, or small and inconspicuous. The leaves are 
 serrated on the edge, without glands (seej^. 1); 
 
38 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 crenated with globose glands (see Jig. 2) ; or cre- 
 nated, with reniform glands (see fig. 3). 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 
 
 Now, let us see how these characters will enable 
 us to identify a variety. We will suppose you 
 have a fine melting dark-coloured Peach ; it had 
 small red flowers, and you are told it is Royal 
 George; it has globose glands at the base of the 
 leaf near the foot-stalk, you may be almost certain 
 it is a Galande. You will not be able perhaps to 
 say if it be the French or English Galande, as 
 these two varieties resemble each other in all three 
 particulars a very rare case; even when of the 
 same race, they will generally be found to differ 
 either in flowers or leaves. We will suppose, how- 
 ever, your fine dark melting Peach has globose 
 glands on the leaves, but had large handsome 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 39 
 
 blooms ; it is Grosse Mignonne, in all probability. 
 Thus you will be able generally to name a variety 
 with certainty, and, at any rate, be in a position 
 to detect mistakes. This information is the more 
 necessary, as many unprincipled persons have 
 been in the habit of substituting a variety easily 
 propagated for one more difficult to cultivate, 
 This accounts for the fact, that hundreds of per- 
 sons who think they know the Grosse Mignonne 
 Peach have, in all probability, never seen it. 
 
 The following Peaches and Nectarines are 
 arranged according to our ideas of excellence, 
 beginning with Grosse Mignonne, the finest of 
 all orchard-house Peaches. If a list of kinds 
 suitable to open-air cultivation in the midland 
 counties were given, this fine variety would, in all 
 probability, be omitted, and French Galande oc- 
 cupy the first place. 
 
 PEACHES. 
 
 In the second and third columns the letter G signifies globose ; 
 K, reniform ; S, serrated. M, mid-season ; E, early ; L, late . 
 
 1 Grosse Mignonne, or^ Fruit large, yellow and red, 
 
 Grimwood's Royal V G M so tender as to mark with 
 George ) a touch ; blooms large, 
 
 dark pink, quite orna- 
 mental. There is an early 
 variety of this almost 
 equal to it in quality 
 
40 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 2 Noblesse 
 
 S M 
 
 3 Crawford's Early 
 
 G M 
 
 4 Royal George S M 
 
 5 "Walburton Admirable G L 
 
 6 French Galande, or | G M 
 
 Belle garde ) 
 
 7 Early York S E 
 
 8 Peche Abec 
 
 G M 
 
 9 English Galande, or ) G M 
 Violette Hative J 
 
 10 Early Newington R M 
 
 11 George the Fourth G M 
 
 12 Malta S M 
 
 13 Barrington G M 
 
 14 Acton Scott G E 
 
 15 Early Anne S E 
 
 16 Belle Bausse G L 
 
 Large ; in the orchard-house 
 yellowish- white, some va- 
 rieties slightly striped 
 pink. Sulhamstead is a 
 vigorous seedling of this 
 kind, differing but little 
 from its parent; blooms 
 large and pale 
 
 Very large, bright yellow 
 and red; flesh also yellow. 
 A magnificent variety ; 
 blooms very small and pale 
 
 Large, rosy red; good bearer; 
 blooms small, dark red 
 
 Very large, greenish- white ; 
 flowers small. The latest 
 variety which ripens in 
 all seasons in a cold-house 
 
 Large, dark red ; flowers 
 small 
 
 Medium size, rosy red ; 
 flowers large. The best 
 early variety 
 
 Medium, rosy red, very 
 handsome ; flowers large 
 
 Large, dark red ; flowers 
 small 
 
 Large, rosy red, very beau- 
 tiful ; small flowers 
 
 Large, light red ; small 
 flowers 
 
 Large, greenish-white, pink 
 next the sun, succeeds 
 Royal George ; flowers 
 large and very pale 
 
 Large, red ; flowers large 
 
 Medium, red ; flowers large 
 
 Rather small, pale green and 
 red, very early; flowers 
 large 
 
 Large, dark red, very hand- 
 some, but often inferior 
 in flavour ; flowers large 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 41 
 
 R L Very large and beautiful, 
 rosy red, often woolly 
 and inferior ; flowers small 
 
 G L Large, green and red. This, 
 with its varieties Teton 
 de Venus and Boudin, 
 seldom ripen here so as 
 to be of good quality 
 without heat ; flowers 
 small 
 
 It L Large, pale yellow. Like 
 the last named, wants 
 heat to ripen with us 
 in most seasons ; flowers 
 small 
 
 R E Very small, pale red, 
 a worthless curiosity ; 
 flowers large 
 
 Some new French and American varieties are 
 omitted, as their value in the climate of the mid- 
 land counties has not yet been proved. The 
 whole of the above are melting Peaches. 
 
 17 Heine es ergers 
 
 18 Late Admirable 
 
 19 Salway 
 
 20 Red Nutmeg 
 
 1 Balgowan 
 
 2 Pitmaston Orange 
 
 3 Yiolette Hative 
 
 NECTARINES. 
 
 R M Large, green and red ; 
 flowers small 
 
 G M Large, yellow and red ; 
 flowers very large and 
 handsome. Rivers' Seed- 
 ling Pitmaston Orange 
 resembles this in every 
 particular, except in 
 having reniform in place 
 of globose glands. 
 
 R M Medium, red and green ; 
 flowers small ; flesh much 
 rayed with red at the stone 
 
42 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 4 Elruge E M Eesembles the above ; flesh 
 
 white at the stone ; hoth 
 are excellent ; flowers 
 small 
 
 5 Hardwick Seedling S M Medium size, red and green; 
 
 large flowers 
 
 6 Downton E M Eesembles Elruge ; small 
 
 flowers 
 
 7 Hunt's Tawney S E Small, red and yellow ; good 
 
 bearer ; flowers small 
 
 8 Stanwick E L Large, red and green, re- 
 
 quires a good climate to 
 ripen, and is seldom good 
 without heat ; when 
 forced it is one of the 
 best ; flowers large 
 
 9 Neate's White E M Medium, white ; flowers 
 
 large and pale; rather 
 acid except in hot summers 
 
 All these are melting Nectarines. The New- 
 ington, Roman, and Early Newington are omitted, 
 being clingstones and rarely good. 
 
ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 43 
 
 Exterior View of Orchard-house huilt by Mr. E. Foster, of 
 Beeston, for the Chilwell Nurseries. 
 
HOTHOUSES, GREENHOUSES, AND 
 ORCHARD-HOUSES. 
 
 CONSTRUCTED ON FOSTER'S PATENT PEINCIPLE, 
 
 With Iron Pillars and Supports, requiring no Brickwork. 
 
 Strong, Light, and Durable Houses can be erected 
 JL either as Fixtures or as Portable Houses. 
 
 The want of a good plan of building portable Houses has been 
 long felt by Clergymen, Tenants, and others unwilling to expend 
 money upon what they cannot remove on a change of residence. 
 
 The Houses are put together at the Works to insure facility 
 in re-erection, each piece being numbered. 
 
 They are loaded on trucks or boats at Beeston, or Nottingham, 
 the Glass sent packed in crates. 
 
 Whether built as Fixed or Portable Houses they will belong 
 t:> the tenant, as they will stand upon the ground. 
 
 Fixed Roof. Moveable. 
 
 s. D. s. D. 
 
 A House 20 feet by 12 feet ............ 3110 0... 3610 
 
 30 feet by 12 feet ............ 43 00... 51 8 
 
 20 feet by 14 feet ............ 34 50... 40 
 
 30 feet by 14 feet ............ 4710 0... 55 
 
 30 feet by 16 feet ............ 51 0... 5915 
 
 30 feet by 18 feet ............ 5415 0... 6412 
 
 40 feet by 14 feet ..... . ...... 6010 0... 70 
 
 40 feet by 16 feet ............ 65 0... 7516 
 
 40 feet by 18 feet ............ 69 10 ... 81 15 
 
 40 feet by 20 feet ............ 7515 0... 90 6 
 
 50 feet by 14 feet ............ 7310 0... 85 
 
 50 feet by 16 feet ............ 7815 .. 9118 
 
 50 feet by 18 feet ............ 84 0... 9818 
 
 50 feet by 20 feet ........... 89 10 ... 106 
 
 50 feet by 24 feet ............ 101 10 ... 126 8 
 
 60 feet by 14 feet ............ 8610 ... 100 
 
 60 feet by 16 feet ............ 9210 ... 108 
 
 60 feet by 18 feet ............ 99 ... 116 12 
 
 60 feet by 20 feet ............ 104 10 ... 124 6 
 
 60 feet by 24 feet ........... 124 10 ... 148 5 
 
 R. FOSTER, 
 HOTHOUSE BUILDER, 
 
 Beeston, near Nottingham. 
 
GLASS FOR GREENHOUSES. 
 
 JAMES PHILLIPS & Co. beg to summit their prices as 
 
 follows : 
 
 ENGLISH GLASS, 16 ozs. to the foot, in Sheets averaging 
 40 by 30, packed in cases containing about 280 feet, 2d. and 
 2|d. per foot. 
 
 SHEET GLASS, 16 ounces, packed in boxes of 100 feet 
 each. Package included. 
 
 
 
 
 
 3rds. 
 
 4ths. 
 
 12 by 9 
 12 10 
 
 13 by 9 
 13 10 
 
 14 by 9 
 14 10 
 
 15 by 9 ) 
 15 ,10) 
 
 14 
 
 12 6 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 > U Y 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 ,12| 
 
 16 
 
 13 6 
 
 18 
 17 
 
 12 
 13 
 
 19 
 18 
 
 12 
 13 
 
 20 
 19 
 
 12 
 13 
 
 16 
 20 
 
 ',13 
 
 per 100 
 
 ft. 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 17 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 ,14) 
 
 
 
 Various other sizes. 
 
 Glass for Orchard -houses. 
 
 As supplied by us to Mr. Rivers, and the Royal Horticultural 
 Society. 
 
 16 ozs. 21 ozs. 
 
 20 in. by 12 in. \ s. d. s. d 
 
 20 in. by 13 in. ( Common 013 6 .. 18 
 
 20 in. by 14 in. ( Superior 016 ,. 1 3 
 
 20 in. by 15 in. ) English Glass 18 .. 190 
 
 The above prices include the Boxes. 
 
 Small Sheet Squares. 
 
 In 100 feet Boxes. 
 
 6 by 4 6iby4 7 by 5 7* by 5| \ 
 8 by 6 8iby6| 9 by 7 9iby7ij 
 
 10 by 8 lOfcby 8 12 
 
 Boxes 2s. each, returnable at full price. 
 
 11 
 
 Squares Cut to Special Sizes. 
 
 16 oz. 4ths, Ifd., 2d., and 2d. 21 oz. 2fd., 3d., and 3|d. 
 3rds. 2d., 2^d., and 3d. 3d., 2|d., and 4d. 
 
 London Agents for Hartley's Improved Patent Rough Plate. 
 
 Linseed Oil, Genuine White Lead, Carson's Paints, Paints of 
 various colours ground ready for use. 
 
 Milk Pans, Propagating Glasses, and every description of 
 Glass for Horticultural purposes. 
 
 JAMES PHILLIPS & Co. 
 
 180, BISHOPSGATE STEEET WITHOUT, LONDON, E.G. 
 
THOMAS MILLINGTQN, 
 
 HORTICULTURAL GLASS WAREHOUSE, 
 
 87, BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHOUT, LONDON. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1750. 
 
 NEW REDUCED TARIFF. 
 
 ORCHARD-HOUSE SIZES, as supplied to Mr. Rivers and others. 
 
 20 in. 
 20 in. 
 20 in. 
 20 in. 
 
 by 12 in. \ 
 by 13 in. ( 
 by 14 in. ( 'Z 
 by 15 in. ) & 
 
 16 oz. 
 21 oz. 
 
 Best. 
 22s. Od. 
 33s. 6d. 
 
 2nds. 
 18s. Od. 
 28s. Od. 
 
 3rds. 
 15s. Od. 
 21s. 6d. 
 
 4ths. 
 12s. 6d. 
 17s. Od. 
 
 . by 4 in. 
 . by 4J in. 
 
 SMALL SHEET SQUARES. 
 
 6 in. 
 
 6 in. . 
 
 7 in. by 5 in. 
 7 in. by 5| in. 
 
 8 in. by 6 in. 
 8 in. by 6J in. 
 
 9 in. by 7 in. 
 9 in. by 7^ in. 
 
 10 in. by 8^ in. 
 10^ in. by 8 in. 
 
 11 in. by 9 in. 
 11 in. by 9J in. 
 
 Best 
 20s. 
 
 16s. 
 
 3rds. 
 12s. 6d. 
 
 4ths. 
 11s. 
 
 HAND GLASSES. 
 each s 
 
 12 inches 6 
 
 14 
 
 1G 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 24 
 
 d. 
 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 PROPAGATING GLASSES. 
 each s. d. 
 
 2 inches 3A 
 
 4 5J 
 
 6 . ... 8 
 
 If open top, Is. extra | 20 
 
 MILK PANS. 
 
 each s. d 
 
 6 inches 6 
 
 1 
 
 1 9 
 
 2 9 
 
 3 3 
 
 3 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 ,.56 
 
 HYACINTH GLASSES. 
 
 per dozen s. d. 
 Common ............ 2 6 
 
 Improved ......... 3 3 
 
 CROCUS GLASSES. 
 per dozen s. d. 
 
 Common ............ 
 
 Improved ......... 2 3 
 
 HYACINTH DISHES. ROLLING PINS. 
 
 each s. d lid. per running inch. 
 
 6 inches l 
 
 9 l 6 
 
 12 , .26 
 
 OPAL DITTO. 
 
 each s. d 
 
 14 inches 3 6 
 
 CUCUMBER TUBES. I 15 f 4 Q 
 
 Id. per running inch. ! 18 ,, 4 6 
 
 Intermediate sizes in proportion. 
 CRYSTAL GLASS SHADES, EBONY AND GILT STANDS, GAS AND LAMP 
 
 GLASSEF, CHIMNEYS AND GLOBES &c. 
 ANTI-CORROSION PAINT, of all Colours ,34s- per Cwt. 
 
 Packed in Casks of various sizes. 
 PREPARED OIL FOR DITTO. 
 
 Patronised by the British, French, and Russian Governments, as also the 
 Dock and Railway Companies. 
 
J. 
 
 HOT-WAT:E;R 
 
 EACH. 
 3 15 
 
 6 10 
 
 7 10 
 
 8 10 
 12 
 20 
 25 
 
 MONRO'S CANNON BOILER. 
 
 PRICE. 
 
 LENGTH OP BOILER. 
 20- inch Wrought Iron 
 24-inch Wrought Iron 
 30-inch Wrought Iron 
 36-inch Wrought Iron . . . 
 48-inch Wrought Iron 
 60-inch Wrought Iron 
 72-inch Wrought Iron 
 
 THESE Boilers are now acknowledged by all who 
 who have used them to be the best Boilers at present invented. They 
 are both economical in their first cost, and also in the consumption of fuel. 
 They require but little space to fix them in, and when set the total height of 
 brickwork need not be more than 3 feet, consequently they can be fixed in 
 many places where it would be impossible to set an Upright Boiler. These 
 Boilers are now made of various sizes, suitable to heat from 300 to 3000 feet 
 of 4-inch pipe, and are kept in stock and sold only by J. JONES, 6, Bank- 
 side, Southwark, London, S.E. 
 
 Prices for Hot-water Pipes, Elbows, Tees, Syphons, Valves, Trough 
 Pipes, Ornamental Coil Cases, Beck's Patent Valves, fyc. ; or Estimates 
 for Hot-water Apparatus delivered Free to any Railway Station, or erected 
 complete in any part of the country, with Cannon, Saddle, or Cylinder 
 Boilers, will be sent, with an Illustrated Catalogue, free on application. 
 
 J. JONES, 
 
 Hot-water Apparatus Manufactory, 6, Bankside, 
 London, S.E. 
 
FIRST-CLASS WEEKLY ILLTJSTEATED GARDENING PUBLICATIONS 
 
 Price Threepence ; Stamped Fourpence. 
 THE 
 
 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE, 
 
 COTTAGE GAEDENEE, 
 
 AND 
 
 COTHSTTR-Y GJ- E 1ST T IL E! 1VT ^ 1ST, 
 EDITED BY GEOEGE W. JOHNSON, F.E.H.S., 
 
 AND 
 
 EGBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.K.H.S., 
 
 Assisted by a Staff of the lest Writers on Practical Gardening, and nume- 
 rous Correspondents engaged in the pursuit of Horticulture and Rural 
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 This Publication forms a New Series of that old-established and popular 
 Periodical "THE COTTAGE GARDENER," permanently increased to Thirty- 
 two Pages, and richly Illustrated with Wood Engravings in the highest 
 style of the Art. 
 
 The subjects treated on embrace every department of Gardening and 
 Rural and Domestic Economy ; from the small plot and allotment of the 
 Cottager to the Villa Garden of the Country Gentleman and Merchant, the 
 grounds of the Parsonage-house, and the more extensive establishments of 
 the Nobility and Gentry. Out-door and In-door Gardening, both econo- 
 mical and decorative, are fully discussed, as well as Forcing, Landscape 
 Gardening, Arboriculture, and more particularly Fruit-tree Culture, and 
 the Science of Pomology. 
 
 The Horticultural Department consists of all the operations of the Fruit, 
 Flower, and Kitchen Garden ; Notices of all the New Fruits, Flowers, and 
 Vegetables; Arboriculture; Landscape Gardening, and Garden Archi- 
 tecture ; descriptions of all the newest Inventions in Garden Structures, 
 Tools, and Implements; and a detail of work to be done in each depart- 
 ment during every week In the year. 
 
 In Rural and Domestic Economy, it treats of the Farm and Poultry-yard ; 
 Allotment Farming ; the Dairy ; the Pigeon-house ; and Rabbit and Bee- 
 keeping. The Treatment of Soils, Manures, Cropping, and Rotation of 
 Crops. Brewing; Wine Making ; Vegetable Cookery, and the Preserving 
 of Fruits and Vegetables. 
 
 Natural History and Botany, so far as they relate to Gardening and 
 Husbandry, are amply treated, and embrace Zoology, Geology, Mineralogy, 
 Meteorology, and Physiological, Structural, Systematic, and Popular 
 Botany. 
 
 Biographies and Portraits of the most celebrated Horticulturists. 
 
 Reviews of New Books relating to the above subjects ; Reports of Horti- 
 cultural and Poultry Societies' Meetings throughout the Country ; and 
 Scientific Notices. 
 
 To ADVERTISERS, the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE will be found a valu- 
 able and effective medium, from the extent of its circulation among the 
 middle and higher classes. 
 
 A SPECIMEN NUMBER FREE sir POST FOR FOUR STAMPS. 
 
 Office: 162, Fleet Street, .London, E.G., 
 
 And to be had of all Booksellers, and at the Railway Stalls. 
 
WORKS 
 
 PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICE OF THE JOURNAL OF HORTICUL- 
 TURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
 
 MANUALS FOR THE MANY. 
 
 Gardening for the Many. 3d. 
 Allotment Farming for the Many. 3d. 
 Bee-keeping for the Many. 4d. 
 Greenhouses for the Many. 6d. 
 Kitchen Gardening for the Many. 4d. 
 Flower Gardening for the Many. 4d. 
 
 Fruit Gardening for the Many. 4d. 
 Florists' Flowers for the Many. 4d. 
 Poultry Book for the Many. 6d. 
 Window Gardening for the Many. 9d. 
 Muck for the Many. 3d. 
 
 %* Any of the ahove can he had post free for an additional postage stamp 
 
 THE FRUIT MANUAL, containing descriptions and Syno- 
 nymes of the Fruits and Fruit Trees commonly met with in the 
 Gardens and Orchards of Great Britain, with Selected Lists of 
 the varieties most worthy of Cultivation. By EGBERT HOGG, 
 LL.D., F.L.S., Secretary to the Fruit Committee of the Horti- 
 cultural Society of London ; Author of " The Vegetable King- 
 dom an^d its Products;" "British Pomology;" and Co-Editor 
 of the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE. Second Edition, greatly 
 enlarged. Price 3s. 6d. Post free, 3s. lOd. 
 
 THE CHEMISTRY OF THE WORLD, being a Popular 
 Explanation of the Phenomena daily occurring in and around 
 our Persons, Houses, Gardens, and Fields. By G. W. JOHNSON, 
 F.R.H.S. 6s., bound in cloth. Free by post, 6s. 6d. 
 
 THE GARDEN MANUAL. Fourth Edition. Is. 6d., 
 bound in cloth. Post free, Is. 8d. 
 
 IN-DOOR GARDENING. Is. 6d., bound in cloth. Post 
 free, Is. 8d. 
 
 1 My Mowers/' 
 Free by 
 
 OUR VILLAGERS. B? the Authoress of 
 &c. Is., bound in cloth. Free by post, Is. 2d. 
 
 THE PIGEON BOOK. Is. 6d., bound in cloth, 
 post, Is. 8d. 
 
 PRIZE ESSAY ON THE CULTIVATION OF EARLY 
 POTATOES. By the Rev. E F. MANBY. 2d. Post free, 3d. 
 
 THE AGRICULTURAL AND HORTICULTURAL USES 
 OF THE AMMONIACAL LIQUORS PRODUCED DURING 
 THE MANUFACTURE OF GAS. 4d., or 8s. per 100. 
 
 Office : 162, Fleet Street, London, E.G. 
 
 And to be had of all Booksellers, and at the Railway Stalls, 
 
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW 
 
 AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS 
 
 WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
 THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
 WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
 DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
 OVERDUE. 
 
 MAY 
 
 PFP. 31976 ..