or »5*^. PLANNING TII» GARDEN ROBERT B. DEERING - is^ m - «dC- ! l\ CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL Experiment Station Extension Service MANUAL 10 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of California, Davis Libraries http://archive.org/details/planninggarden10deer PLANNING THE GARDEN ROBERT B. DEERING UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ■ COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DAVIS THIS MANUAL is one of a series published by the University of California College of Agriculture and sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the production cost. By this means it is possible to make available pub- lications which, due to relatively high cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of the College publishing program. CONTENTS PAGE Site selection 3 A program for landscaping 9 Planning the house and garden 15 Children in the garden 21 Controlling the garden climate 25 Control of smoke,, dust, and noise 27 Plants and planting 29 Plant containers 37 Methods of enclosure 39 Grading, drainage, and retaining walls 41 Walks, steps, and ramps 45 Drives, garages, parking, and turnarounds 47 Terraces, porches, and garden shelters 51 Paving materials and construction methods 53 Water in the garden 57 Garden furniture 59 Outdoor cooking and eating 63 Lighting the garden 65 Storage for tools and equipment 67 Suggested reading 68 (Mill Valley, Calif. Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects. Garden plans are just as important as house plans. Each should complement the other, so that the gar- den actually becomes an addition to the home (see photograph above). The most satisfactory proce- dure is one in which the house and garden are con- sidered as a whole at the time that the plans are drawn. This manual suggests the steps to follow from the time you choose your lot until the project is com- pleted. If your buildiug and landscaping program is already in progress, or your present garden needs some remodeling, the information should be of help in completing the work. THE AUTHOR: Robert B. Deering is Assistant Professor of Landscape Management, Davis. OCTOBER, 1953 PLANNING THE GARDEN ROBERT B. DEERING H Lomeowners in California spend many millions of dollars annually on the landscaping of their gar- dens. Much of this money is spent for the advice, materials, and labor necessary in solving certain basic problems, some or all of which are common to most sites. Whether the garden is planned and exe- cuted entirely by a landscape architect or designer, or whether the homeowner does some or all of the work himself, a knowledge of the problems involved and the principles underlying their solution is essen- tial. This manual is planned to help the homeowner spend his landscaping budget wisely, avoid mistakes that may prove costly to correct, and achieve a gar- den that is pleasant, practical, and adapted to the house and to the family's activities. It must be remembered that the solution will not be the same for every property since each family presents a different problem. However, certain basic principles apply, regardless of individual varia- tions. Four major problems in landscaping are pre- sented by the four main types of home owning families: 1 . The largest group includes those families who purchase tract or housing development homes. 2. Other families buy relatively new homes al- ready designed and constructed with no specific owner in mind at the time of building. 3. Still other families purchase a lot and construct a home planned especially for them. 4. Then there are those who now live in older homes but who desire to remodel and revitalize their gardens. Among these families, the attitudes toward gar- dening vary as much as the individuals themselves, from the enthusiastic amateur who will spend all his spare time in the garden to the person who enjoys the finished product, but wishes to spend very little time on upkeep. All, however, are agreed that some outdoor living space is essential, and all can have the type of garden best suited to their activities. Obviously, gardens cannot be entirely naturalistic because they would not fit into man's mechanized way of living. But architectural elements, such as walls, fences, and paving, have often been overused. A good design will generally result only with a bal- anced integration of architectural materials and plants, which should be a vital part of any garden. Plants that are native to the area in which you live should play a prominent role in the garden, not only because they are at home in such surroundings, but also because they are adapted to the climatic and soil conditions and therefore require less water than do plants introduced from other climates. The pink flowering redbud (Cercis occidentalis) and the deep yellow flowering flannel bush (Fremontia calif or - nica) are examples of natives that grow in most areas of California. Limited space need not prohibit the development of a garden. Many of the best designed, most useful and livable ones are those on small city or suburban lots. The key to success is in proper organization and use of space— the main problems of designing. An attractive community or neighborhood de- pends largely upon the appearance of the individual homes. It also depends, to a large extent, upon the forethought, planning, and cooperation of all within that community. Gardens should be designed for family living. Where there are children, they should be considered in the planning. Too often, very little is done to make the garden enjoyable for them. Proper thought and consideration in landscaping pay high dividends when children find that there is more fun to be found at home than in the streets. California does not have "a climate," but actually consists of several "climates," ranging from arid to extremely moist, and from areas of high altitude to those below sea level. Four major climatic areas in the state require different types of garden design and use of plant materials: 1 . The coastal areas, north and south. 2. The central valley regions, 3. Arid desert land. 4. High-altitude regions. An important objective in planning a garden in any of these areas is to produce more days of com- fortable living. Clearly, the many considerations involved in planning a garden cannot all be covered completely within the limits of this manual. Each garden plan must be worked out individually. The aspects of building and landscaping discussed here are based on the over-all, general concepts of design for good living. A list of suggested supplementary reading appears on page 68. Page 2 SITE SELECTION Questions to be answered before you buy, build, or landscape Some of the most important decisions facing a prospective homeowner are the ones he has to make when deciding where he and his family are going to live. Today and in the future, an increasing number of homeowners have bought or will be buying tract or housing development homes. The mass-produced house is here to stay because rising costs have made it necessary for builders to construct houses for the average person on an efficiency basis. If you are thinking of buying one of these houses, you should carefully consider all the types of plans and the various orientations on the lots. A house that may be undesirable on one site may work very well on another lot having a different orientation. Whether you are building or buying a house, just one item overlooked may make a home undesirable and unlivable. For example, it would generally be a mistake, in the coastal areas, to select or build a house with the living areas located on the north, as they would be cold and damp during the winter when maximum sunshine is desired. Ask yourself these questions: What price can I afford? Since the value of land varies greatly according to population density, it is hard to set up a formula for determining how much one should spend on a piece of property. But mosl families cannot afford to spend more than two fifths of their annual income in order to purchase a parcel of land. What are my family's habits and preferences? Before you visit a real estate agent, know your family needs and desires. Does your job demand a home close to work? Are you and your children going to be happy out in the country or is property near town more suitable? What size family do you intend to have, and what about the desirability of the site when the children are grown? Whether or not you are a gardener will also influence the selection of the site. Is the site located in a desirable neighborhood? Make sure that you and your family like the neigh- bors and that they are in approximately the same income bracket as yourselves. The neighborhood should have clean and attractive buildings, lawns, and streets. Most local construction requirements are helpful in retarding the rate of decline, although some may be too limiting in their nature. A neigh- borhood of homeowners is usually better maintained than one composed of tenants who are likely to be less interested in upkeep and improvements. Is the area zoned? Most communities are zoned The site must be selected before the house and garden can be planned. Be sure the site you choose is suitable for the type of house you want to build. When the site has been chosen, consider the design of house and garden. Is it planned for the best possible orientation to sun and prevailing winds? into three sections for the protection of the home- owner — industrial, commercial, and residential. Residential zoning, as well as city and community codes, generally prescribes a minimum size of house, sometimes its minimum cost, its "set back" from the street, and the distance from adjoining houses. The city engineers' office or, in outlying districts, the county planning commission, is usually able to sup- ply information on local regulations for the com- munity. Are there nuisances? Investigate smoke, dust, noise, chicken yards, livestock feed lots, corrals, railroads, highways, factories, and dumps. Are they within sight, hearing, or smelling distance? How do the neighbors minimize the main nuisances? What improvements are available? Are streets paved? Are the curbs, sidewalks, street lights, and street trees in? Are all necessary utilities available? Gas, elec- tricity, water, and sewer and storm drainage should be readily accessible. In the country, a seemingly good site may lack one or more vital utility. Are services also available? Good fire and police protection are among the most important. Fire pro- tection in rural areas should be assumed to be slower, and may even be nonexistent. Telephone and mail service, trash and garbage removal must also be con- sidered. Are good schools, churches, shopping centers, and medical facilities conveniently located? These fea- tures are important. It might be a good idea to make a "trial" shopping trip, and to talk to some of the parents in the neighborhood about the schools and medical and hospital facilities. If children must cross streets where traffic is heavy, in going to and from school, check to see whether there are traffic lights or special supervision for safe crossing. Do recreational facilities take care of the whole Best location for an inland home site is generally part way up a slope that faces the desirable direc- tion. This will depend upon prevailing wind, sun, and the views. Undesirable Winds . , , ... - Desirable Prevailing Summer Breezes (in some areas they may come from the same direction as the undesirable winds) North Slopes are damper, but may be more desirable in hot- dry climates providing the N. wind is not «-• objectionable CONSIDER DIRECTION OF WIND . . . ■•S53J- Prevailing Westerly Winds Hilltop Sites have magnificent views but are subject to deep ocean fogs Shore Sites facing S.W. receive more winter sun but have more glare Cooling Afternoon Draft flows inland on open ^ Tall Buildings and Trees : may cut off the air flow, but the moisture " influence will still be felt Ocean or Bay The Best Location for a shore site is generally part way up the slope _£J7~> Gentle Air Flows and Eddies felt on open slopes Sites Shielded from the Ocean in a marine climate, if facing E., have a desirable morning exposure but, if facing N., are more damp and cooler rs -^ Waterfront Sites -ggg^-i^ subject to shallow radiation fogs Cooling Nighttime Breezes flow downhill in ravines 3 Page 4 The combination of topography and ocean exposure may determine the desirability of a coastal site. Generally, best location for a shore site is part way up a slope. THE ANGLE . . . Winter Noon Sun 31 "altitude at 35° latitude Warmest-Sunniest Areas in Winter Coldest-Dampest Areas in Winter ~ A -/ Warmest-Sunniest Areas in Summer, Summer shade needed Coolest-Shadiest in Summer, N. or N.E. terrace may be desired 4 Proper orientation results in warm, livable areas in winter, cool ones in summer. (For summer and winter coolness in desert regions, living areas should face northeast.) AND SWEEP OF THE SUN Direct Sun in late afternoon SUNSET Low Branching Deciduous Trees will keep low afternoon sun off west and north walls in summer Least Amount of Roof Overhang needed on north except where shade is desired and in desert regions where living areas may face north Largest Amount of Overhang necessary on west if glass is used on these walls " "I 3-4 ft. Overhang Needed on E. . J to shade walls before noon E. andN., ) 7\l\ coolest outdoor area SUNRISE SUNRISE Proper orientation dictates how the house and garden should be planned. A. Best orientation for houses in northern and central California is generally with living areas facing south or southeast, as in diagram above. B. In the San Joaquin Valley, it may be more pleasant to have living areas to the east or southeast. C. Houses along the coast may be designed with major glass areas to the east, south, and west where there is an ocean view. Double-paned glass may be necessary where cold winds sweep in from the ocean. D. Houses in desert regions may require major glass areas on the northeast, with solid walls to the south and west. Page 5 Typical tract housing in which the major streets run north and south provides fewer desirable building sites than areas where streets run east and west. I Best sites in northern, central, and coastal regions have living areas to the south or southeast. (In desert regions, best areas might be to the northeast.) | — I Next best sites have living areas to the east or southwest. (In desert regions, next best might be east or southeast.) ] Poorest sites have living areas to the north or west, although west views may be desirable along the coast. (Poorest sites in desert regions face west or south.) ORTH LIVING AREAS NeMeIe tTtTtrt I ? \ sou TH LIVING AREAS OR.TH LIVING AREAS &1£1£1&1£ STfcTtTltTt SOUTH LIVING AREAS J Typical tract. Major streets run east and west. Page 6 family? Most families have diversified recreational interests, and each member must be considered. Find out whether facilities for those interests are present and easily accessible. Is transportation readily accessible? This is espe- cially important in the country, or for a one-car family. Be sure that dependable means of transpor- tation are available at all times for business, shop- ping, and recreational purposes. Does the site have hazards? A dry creek may be- come a roaring river in the spring — a hazard to children as well as to the home and property. An irrigation canal is always a danger to children. Rail- roads, highways, and industries close by are hazards, and reduce the resale value of the property. Does the topography benefit the climate? Seldom does the buyer consider the climate in selecting a site, yet if considerable forethought were given to this factor, outdoor living conditions could be greatly improved. Topography has an important influence on the local climate because of exposure and because of the fact that cold air flows downhill at night. Sites exposed to the winter winds, and valley bottom sites usually are less desirable because of the extra cold- ness. Frost occurs first at the lower elevations, and fog is most frequent in the lowest points. In summer, the valley bottom may be too warm if it is cut off from cooling breezes. The best location is probably part way up a slope, although a site at the top of a hill may be desirable in warm areas. The lee side (away from the wind) of the hill, well below the crest, is out of the area where the winds are the strongest, and usually will be much more comfortable. Southeast exposures on slopes generally make the most desirable sites in the northern, central, and coastal regions of California. The site facing south offers the best possibility for taking advantage of the winter sun's natural heating qualities. A northeast exposure may be the most desirable in desert regions where cool living areas are often desired at all times of the year. Soil conditions and the natural plant cover of the area may have a great effect on the over-all climate of the site. Soils of different textures and composition have varying effects. Other factors to be considered are near-by bodies of water. Sites located near water will have a more mild winter climate than those in other areas. Bodies of water always raise the humidity, and also influ- ence temperatures, causing them to be higher than average in winter and lower in summer. The influ- I. Hsm:: ^& '■^•l Oft -**& ■■■Ktftw. 8 Existing trees on a site may be included in the garden plan to good advantage. If tree had been re- moved, the garden above (right) would have been far less attractive. (See left, same garden with the tree blocked out.) (Photos courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.) ence is more marked near larger bodies of water than near smaller ones. The lee side will have a less extreme climate than the windward side where off- shore breezes in some sections have been known to lower the temperature as much as 10 degrees. Lake breezes seldom reach more than three quarters of a mile inland, whereas ocean breezes may extend in- land a great distance. Buildings and tall trees along the shore front, or hills and mountains nearby may be limiting factors. (Architectural Forum, March, 1947, p. 115.) Topography and water bodies together affect the climate, and their combination may materially in- crease the desirability of certain sites. Does the topography of the land lend itself to site development and construction design? Level sites generally cost less to develop than do sloping or hilly sites, and they may not be so interesting. Hilly sites often require extensive excavating and filling, Be sure that the area in which you build has been zoned, so that this cannot happen later. construction of expensive retaining walls, steps, ter- races, and provision for special drains and storm sewers to handle rapid surface water runoff. Have soil and subsoil conditions been considered? Look for natural sites which have not been filled or changed by excavation. Be sure topsoil has not been removed or that the site does not require additional filling. Make sure the type of soil will support the house. If hillside sites are desired, an examination of the ground should be made to determine whether there have been any indications of soil "slips" (slides) caused by an excess of subsurface water during heavy rains. Several cases have been recorded in which homes have slipped down the sides of hills. The removal, excavation, and disposal of large quantities of rock is expensive and should be avoided if possible. Are views, trees, and plantings interesting? While a site with a pleasant view is always advantageous, other considerations may prove more important. Where the essential requirements for good planning are present but the view is undesirable, the site may still be worth considering if the unpleasant aspects can be screened out by wise use of plant and archi- tectural materials. Trees and plantings provide an interesting setting, and although they generally add to the initial cost, they greatly increase the desira- bility of the property as well as its resale value. Is the land oriented for good planning? Orienta- tion should be one of the most important factors in considering a site. It is a good idea to draw up many plans and sketches to see if the house can be de- signed to take advantage of desirable breezes and to Page 7 keep undesirable cold or hot winds from limiting the use of outdoor living areas. In some areas, hot winds are sometimes the limiting factors. A site which allows the placement of the house so that the garden and living areas can be located on the side away from the wind will solve this problem. The type, size, and location of existing trees on the site and on neighboring properties will have a decided bearing on the local climate and on the planning, locating, and orienting of the house. Is there sufficient land for adequate outdoor living spaces, privacy, services, and driveway? Even on a small lot, privacy and the feeling of spaciousness can be achieved through sound planning. Many de- tails must be considered in advance so that sufficient space will be allowed — for example, if a turnaround is desired, room for it must be allocated at an early stage in the designing. Do others have rights-of-way, easements, or rights to the property? Such rights-of-way, as for sewer lines, irrigation canals, roads, pipe lines, electric and telephone lines, and other utilities should be carefully looked into. Some are desirable for site development, others are detriments. If the access to your property passes over a neighbor's land, be sure that a legal right-of-way has been obtained so that there is no possibility of gates or other obstructions preventing entrance to your own home. In some areas, mineral and oil rights may continue to be controlled by a previous owner even though the land may have changed hands several times. A more satis- factory agreement would share the mineral rights and provide termination of the reservation in a cer- tain number of years if no commercial development is made. Are taxes reasonable? Find out from neighbors and tax assessors what the present rate is, and the possibility of higher taxes in the future. Then figure out how much the assessment will be. Can I get a loan? Before purchasing the land, find out whether you can borrow a sufficient amount for building on the selected site. It may be difficult to borrow on land in the country as most loan com- panies or banks will not take a chance of a loss on their investment. They realize the problems which may occur from being isolated, and the desirability of living in a neighborhood where community inter- ests may be developed. Loan companies also con- sider the resale value of both house and property. Do I have "clear title" to the land? The title should be searched by a competent attorney to make sure you have "clear title" to the land. Then get the deed recorded in the county where the property is located, and if possible, have the title insured by a reliable title insurance company. Where can I seek competent advice? Avoid going to your friends — they usually tell you what you want to hear. Consult several people with different viewpoints, such as the county Farm Advisor, city or county planning board members, older residents, landscape architects, architects, bankers, lawyers, builders, and contractors. Only if you can choose between close alternatives will you be able to obtain the most desirable site for your needs. The survey. One of the first steps to take after deciding on a certain site is the making of a survey. This should be done by a licensed surveyor. It should show the complete area, on a map, with the actual measurements and angles used, together with a state- ment of the exact amount of land contained within the survey. Along with it there should be an accurate legal description and the exact location of the prop- erty within the state and county. If topography is considerably hilly or rugged, it is well to have a contour or topographical survey made at the same time. The results of this survey will show the shape and form of the land, which will later be useful in locating the house and in designing the garden. When buying, hire a competent lawyer to draw up the deed and to check the transaction be- tween the seller and yourself to see that it is properly prepared and is in correct legal form. The deed should then be recorded in the registry of deeds in the county in which the land is located. Page 8 A PROGRAM for LANDSCAPING Important points at this stage are design, choice and location of plants, construction Every homeowner, understandably, wants to com- plete the landscaping of his property as soon as pos- sible. But he should not make the mistake of thinking that it can be done shortly after the house is ready for occupancy. A garden can seldom be constructed and planted in a single year. The work may have to ex- tend over several years, not only because of the time it takes for garden structures to be built and for plantings to reach maturity, but also because of the expense involved. It does not pay to hurry the job. Amateurs often make costly mistakes. Al- though much personal enjoyment is to be found in planning a garden, one can make many mistakes that may prove expensive. In remedying them, one may spend, over a period of years, as much as the services of a landscape architect would have cost in the beginning, to say nothing of wasted effort and backaches. The homeowner's mistakes generally oc- cur in the designing of the garden, the selection and location of the plant materials, and the construction phases. Lack of a good, workable plan is the cause of most difficulties. A plan is a necessity. A landscape plan is as important as a house plan. It is not easy to develop a good garden without one. The best time to consider hiring a landscape archi- tect is before the planning of the house has started. He should then work with you and an architect in the very beginning stages of planning and orienting the house and garden. A landscape architect gen- erally can make the garden more useful and livable. The man you select should be licensed and a graduate of an accredited school of Landscape Architecture or Landscape Design. He should be able to show you both designs and completed gar- dens, indicating methods of construction used. It is always well to ask other of his clients how they like their gardens. What is included in the landscape archi- tect's services? If you hire the landscape architect early enough, he will be able to finish the garden plans by the time the house plans are completed (provided a new house is to be constructed). Whether you are building, buying a "ready-made" - ft This is what can happen when the back yard is not planned and organized to serve the various family '" needs and activities. Page 9 PLANNING PAYS A well-planned garden is good from all angles Plan at right shows how a garden (below) was organized to make it livable, interesting, easy to maintain. Planting was kept simple; lawn is large enough to be usable, but easy to care for. (Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1941, The Conde Nast Publications, Inc. Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.) 12 13 14 Excellent indoor-outdoor relationships result when house and garden are planned together. Simple design makes maintenance easy in this garden oriented toward a mountain view. Wood- en fence conceals the service area. Overhead view shows garden design. Celloglass fence obscures unsightly areas, but permits light to enter. Horizontal trel- lis (upper right) will carry vines over embankment, thereby adding to feel- ing of space. (Mill Valley, Calif. Photos by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects house, or redesigning an established garden, by having complete plans you can start off right. These should include: l.A PRELIMINARY PLAN showing the plan of the house, garden design, contour lines, any pro- posed changes in grade, location of steps, walks, and drives, terraces and porches, walls, fences, and plantings. Perspective or isometric sketches and ele- vations are helpful to the inexperienced person in visualizing the finished garden. This plan is dis- cussed with the homeowner, and many changes are made at that time, resulting in: 2. THE GENERAL PLAN. This usually incor- porates an acceptable preliminary plan, plus any corrections, all dimensions possible, materials to be used, references to construction notes, and detail sheets. 3. A GRADING PLAN showing the changes in grade may also be required for an irregular site if there are more changes in grade than can be shown on the general plan. This plan is used to determine the depth of foot- ings for the foundation of the house; the amount of excavating and filling needed to produce sufficiently level space for the house and outdoor living areas; the placement of retaining walls, terraces, and steps ; the slope and location of walks and drives, curbs and gutters, storm and sanitary sewer systems, and water and gas lines. The exact locations of existing trees, large rocks, and ravines should also be shown. 4. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS may be drawn as a part of the general plan if only a few are needed ; otherwise, separate sheets are necessary. These con- sist of enlarged drawings of structural details and may include plans, elevations, and sectional draw- ings. They should give complete instructions on the methods and materials to be used in construction. 5. THE PLANTING PLAN AND PLANTING LIST show the scientific and common names, the numbers, the sizes, and forms of plants recom- mended, and the exact location of each in relation to the design. For a small garden, the planting plan may be a part of the general plan. 6. AN IRRIGATION PLAN, separate from the others, may be needed to show the system to be used for watering lawns and plantings. Complete data should be given on the plan so that the system can be installed by the homeowner or landscape contractor. (For more detailed information, see University of California Extension Service Circular 134, "Lawn- Page 12 Sprinkler Systems." A copy may be obtained from Agricultural Publications, Room 22 Giannini Hall, University of California, Berkeley.) How much will it cost to hire a landscape architect? The methods for charging vary. Some landscape architects charge a flat fee for complete plans and working drawings, based on the size and shape of the land and the extent of work needed. Others set a certain percentage for plans and work- ing drawings, generally 10 to 20 per cent of the cost of the completed garden. Supervision of the work is a necessary part of the landscape architect's service, and is usually charged for separately. In a few cases, charges for designing are made on an hourly basis for whatever work is desired. It is best to let the landscape architect handle the work from start to finish if this is possible. The re- sults are generally more satisfactory and economi- cal. He will be quite willing to discuss fees with you, and to let you know the total cost of the finished job. Possibly some arrangement can be worked out so that the garden can be completed a portion at a time. The major costs of landscape work are for labor, materials, and construction. Planning in relation to costs is important. The final garden design approved by the homeowner should be within his financial means. By having a long-range plan, with the work and the cost spread over several years, you may be able to have a much better garden than would be possible if all the ex- pense were to be borne at once. Often a good design can be worked out that will result in a relatively inexpensive garden by substi- tuting less expensive, but equally effective, materials for the more costly ones. For example, a wire fence with vines often makes a more attractive screen than does a wooden fence, and the cost is considerably less. Paving materials also vary greatly in price and in cost of labor for laying them. How much of the work can the home- owner do himself? In working out the budgets for time and costs, indicate what you can do your- self, and what should be done by professional work- ers. This will depend somewhat upon whether you are used to handling materials and equipment. In general, heavy construction, such as paving, walls, fences, and terraces, is more successful, and takes less time if done by experienced persons. Planting and minor jobs that do not require special skills can be done by the individual. The following list suggests a possible order of work for construction and planting. One may adapt it to suit his individual project. 1 . Walks and drives are essential and should be put in first of all. 2. Terraces might come next since they provide usable outdoor areas while the lawn is becoming established. 3. Lawn space should be decided upon and planted at an early date. Grass holds down dust, and permits children to play outside without tracking in mud. 4. Trees are important, especially in hot climates, and should be planted at an early stage so as to pro- vide shade as soon as possible. 5. Hedges, screens, walls, and fences are next in importance because privacy is needed once the house is occupied. 6. Low shrubs and other plantings that bring the garden design almost to completion may be left among the last items on the list of things to be done. Plantings that constitute a unit or area, or that fulfill a special function, should be completed at one time. This stage should not be hurried, as the planting results are most important in the future appearance of the garden. 7. Items of lesser importance, such as pools, sand boxes, seats, and trellises, may be built one at a time, to complete the garden. (Of course, space for these items should be indicated in the original plan even if these features are not to be added for some time.) Page 13 PLANNING the HOUSE and GARDEN Four basic units should be considered — the public, private, living, and service areas This section will be discussed from the standpoint of the person who is in a position to build a home of his own choice, but many of the same principles will apply to the older garden that may benefit by re- modeling. Often, in the case of an older home, the redesigning of the garden leads to remodeling of the house in order to achieve a better integration with the landscape. The tentative planning of house and garden, whether done by the homeowner or landscape archi- tect, must actually begin before the purchase of the land, as it is necessary to find out whether or not a workable solution can be achieved. Adjacent build- ings, trees, and other external site conditions may have a great bearing on the planning arrangement. Size and shape of the plot. The irregular lot may prove to be the most interesting to develop. The homeowner should begin by making sketches of house and garden plans to determine whether or not a good functional solution can be adapted to the ground forms, taking into consideration the orien- tation, sun, wind, and views. Can walks, drives, liv- ing areas, lawns, and gardens be arranged conveni- ently and economically? No one plan will adapt itself to another situation. The designing should be started only when a specific site or situation has been selected. Orientation. Are you considering, in your plan- ning, the cold winter winds, the cool summer breezes, the desirable winter sun, the hot summer sun, and the existing views? It is possible to enjoy the out- doors a great deal more if these factors are given serious consideration. Some areas may be too cold and damp to consider much outdoor living at any season of the year. In this case, as much of the garden and views as possible should be visible from inside the house. But too often we tend to enjoy the landscape from indoors during a great part of the year when this is not necessary. In many parts of California, it is pos- sible to live outside almost the year 'round if careful consideration is given to proper orientation at the time the house is planned. While there are many ways to improve the outdoor comfort of an existing house or one that has been poorly oriented, it would be better to solve the problems involved when the house is in the planning stages. Correcting mistakes is often expensive, and sometimes they can never be completely rectified regardless of the amount of money spent. (See "Controlling the Garden Cli- mate," p. 25.) Are you an ambitious gardener? Before be- ginning to plan the garden, you might give some thought to this question. Equally attractive gardens can be planned either for the person who enjoys gar- dening or the one who prefers to spend little time on the actual care and upkeep. The ambitious gardener, however, should not plan more than he can easily handle. In this way, his garden will always look neat, yet he will have time in which to enjoy it. Four major areas should be considered when planning a house and garden. Although no two families are alike, all families have similar basic problems. 1 . PUBLIC ACCESS is that portion facing the street and consisting of front walk, porch and en- trance hall, driveway, and front yard. Walks and drives should be direct, functional, and well con- structed. (See "Walks, Steps, and Ramps," p. 45.) This area should present a neat and uncluttered appearance at all times. Front porches and front terraces are costly and might well be omitted unless they have privacy from public view. Some sort of protective cover against rain is needed over out- side doorways, and a sufficient roof overhang should be planned to keep direct sun out of windows dur- ing the summer months. A large public area is not necessary and is not generally recommended as it requires consid- erable maintenance and is little used except for entering and leaving. However, a certain amount of land between the house and street is necessary to act as a buffer against dust, traffic, and noise. If the lot is small, more use can sometimes be made of this area by enclosing it with a wall or fence if local ordi- nances do not prohibit doing this. If they do. how- Page 15 Public area and front entrance should be neat and uncluttered. Simple lines of the houss are continued in brick walk, lawn. (Pasadena, Calif. Photo by Julius Shulman. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.) ever, enclosure can still be achieved by a hedge or other type of planting. One of the best ways to keep a neighborhood from looking monotonous, even with houses of similar design, is to vary the "set-back." Most cities have a minimum requirement, which means that the houses cannot be placed nearer the street than the regulation (25 feet in many communities). It does not mean, however, that houses must be placed up to the 25- foot line. They may be back as much as 28, 30, 35 feet or more. Just the difference of 5 feet in relation to neighboring houses will give a home a great deal more character than others which are in line with one another. Lots situated on the north side of east-west running streets may be made more livable if the house is located at the rear of the property and the garden area placed in front or on the south side. The living area to the northeast may be more desirable in the Imperial Valley and other desert areas. It is seldom necessary, nor does it improve the appearance, to use hedges or other types of plantings between the street or sidewalk and the house, at the ends of walks, or at the sides of neighboring proper- ties unless the view is unsightly and in need of screening. Actually, the public area needs very little plant- ing. A well-kept lawn, shade trees, and a few well- placed dwarf shrubs and vines should be adequate in most cases. The most pleasing front yards are those where the lawns flow, uninterrupted by plant- ings, walls, or fences, from one property to another. Shrubs, walls, and fences should be used where there is a definite purpose for them, not merely as deco- ration. Three scenes are common to many homes today: A junglelike setting (the pruning problem). Com- mon in many residential areas is a junglelike setting where shrubs conceal windows, crowd front door- ways and sidewalks, or even grow over the tops of the houses themselves. Most planting problems arise, not from the use of too many plants, but from the use of the wrong kinds. Badly butchered plants which have lost all their natural form and character as a result of severe pruning (an effort to keep them within bounds) is another familiar sight. Most pruning problems result from the wrong selection of plant material. Dwarf shrubs which grow not more than l^j feet high when mature can be used near the house and underneath windows, as they require little pruning or care. Garages opening directly onto the street. It is not uncommon to see the car parked outside and the doors of the garage left open, exposing an assorted collection of stored articles to the public view. The "picture window." The use of large areas of clear glass on the street side of the house is a mistake made by many homeowners and builders. To secure the privacy needed, such glass must be covered by draperies or blinds. Thus the original purpose of the window is defeated. Often the picture window be- comes no more than a show window for displaying household objects. Large, clear glass areas should be used where there are good views and adequate privacy. There are, however, many types of trans- lucent glass which may be used where views and privacy are lacking. Page 16 i j Large, clear glass areas on street side often ' * turn picture windows into show windows. 2. LIVING AREAS are the centers of family group activities. They consist of the living room, eating areas, terraces, porches, patio, back lawn, and spaces for games. Use barriers sparingly. In the outdoor living area, plantings, walls, screens, and fences should be used only in sufficient quantity to provide adequate pri- vacy and protection. Typical of many neighbor- hoods, especially new housing developments, is the encircling of the properties with board fences or with fencing and hedging material of the same type, re- sulting in an appearance not unlike animal stock- yards. There is no reason why a pleasing combina- tion of materials — for example / wire, wood, and plants — cannot be used to achieve the necessary pri- vacy without the monotony of typical tract housing, and at a considerable saving in expense. The objective of the living areas should be to pro- vide a good relationship of inside spaces to those outside so that the garden becomes a convenient and useful extension of the various indoor rooms. This does not necessarily mean that these areas must be separated merely by glass walls. The areas closest to the house will generally receive the most use if terraces, porches, and other facilities are available and convenient, and if use of unnecessary nights of steps is avoided. Outdoor living spaces should be reached without having to pass through the kitchen or laundry. But when serving meals outdoors, easy access to the kitchen should be possible. 3. PRIVATE AREAS are those surrounding the private living spaces — bedrooms, bath, study, sleep- ing porch, and sunbathing area. Privacy and quiet are most important requirements in planning these spaces. Flexibility in planning is required for a good workable solution. For example, small children must have adequate supervision when they are playing outside, and the play area should be visible from kitchen, laundry, and living sections. But as children grow older, they desire more privacy and will want rooms and equipment of their own as well as places to work and entertain friends. Small terraces or porches leading directly from the bedrooms make them more livable and private, and permit children to enter their own rooms directly from the outside. This in turn will help in cutting down the mud and dirt ordinarily tracked through the house. (See "Children in the Garden," p. 21.) BE SURE YOUR PICTURE WINDOW FRAMES A PICTURE Page 17 Above: A house well planned for family activ- 20 >t' e s< Terrace is raised to floor level for easy access from house. 21 Right: Seclusion and quiet are essential in bedroom, bath, and sunbathing areas. Here, board-and-batten wall continues as matching extension of house. (Atherton, Calif. Photos by Ernest Braun. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) 4. WORK AND SERVICE AREAS consist of the garage or carport and turnaround; kitchen and laundry; garden storage for supplies, tools, and equipment; space for garbage disposal; and space for the drying yard near the laundry. Also, the vege- table and cut flower gardens should be located as near the kitchen as possible. A section of the garden with a pleasant view should be visible to the home- maker while she is working indoors. Service areas tend to look cluttered even when well kept, so that some sort of screening is always necessary. Page 18 22 The living area of this home includes a screened terrace for comfortable outdoor activities. Note handling of small pool within paving blocks (upper right). (Photo by Gottscho-Schleisner. Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.) Walls of clear glass in this living area result 23 m privacy and a pleasing indoor-outdoor relationship. Paving is shaded by trees. (Pasadena, Calif. Photo by Julius Shulman. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.) Wooden fence and trees at eye level insure 24 P r ' vacv anc ' quiet for this pleasing garden corner. (Photo by Gottscho-Schleisner. Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.) Page 19 Above: This garden area was designed espe- njp cially for children. Paving around the sand box is practical — spilled sand can be swept back into box. Left: Original plan of the garden shown above. Combination seat and wind screen helps to give privacy from neighboring gar- dens. (San Francisco, Calif. Photo by Ernest Braun. Lawrence Halprin, Landscape Architect.) CHILDREN in the GARDEN Play areas should be planned to provide for a variety of activities Too little thought and imagination have been ap- plied to making gardens and play equipment more interesting and exciting for children. It is easy to forget that their thinking is very different from that of adults. They should have a large share in the en- joyment of the garden, and be able to invite others to join in their play. Playground equipment. Children enjoy slid- ing down poles, climbing ladders, crawling into caves and tunnels, swinging on bars. Imaginative playground equipment that is designed for these ac- tivities is gradually becoming available. Some of the equipment shown on these pages, although designed for public playgrounds, could be adapted to a smaller scale for the home garden. The simpler pieces might even be constructed at home. Wading pools. Even the smallest pool can be- come a hazard to children, and extreme caution must be observed when one is planned. It should be located so that constant supervision is possible. Water sports can be made even more exciting when slides or swinging ropes are provided. Of course, consideration should be given to the demands of different age groups. Sand boxes. Children always enjoy sand. How- ever, it should be remembered that sand will seldom stay in its allotted space, no matter how well its con- nj Shredded tan bark underneath play equipment forms a soft surface and helps prevent injury from ^ ' falls. Safety measures are extremely important when children are at play. (Modesto, Calif. Photo by Ernest Braun. Lawrence Halprin, Landscape Architect.) no Above: Small-scale models of a new type of ^O ploy equipment for climbing and sliding. (Photos by Max Jaikin. Designs by Frederick Jean Thalinger, in Progressive Architecture.) tainer may be designed and constructed. Paving around the box permits sweeping most of the over- flow back into it. Because sand is ideal for animals to dig in, the sand box should be protected from them by fencing it off in some manner. A sand box can be designed so that when it is no longer needed for its original purpose it may be converted to a wading pool or flower bed. Work areas. Older boys need a special area where they can do carpentry and mechanical work without having the resulting clutter visible from the rest of the garden. Such space should be included in the service area, and be arranged so that they may continue their work without having to clean it up at the end of each day. Storage space for play equip- ment, as well as for chairs and tables, can be pro- vided in this area. Provision may also be made for confined animals, such as rabbits. Space for games. Small children enjoy paved areas on which they can pull wagons, ride tricycles and bicycles. Paved walks (junior highways) which follow interesting routes and return to the original starting point without backtracking are the most fun. Older children and grownups enjoy croquet, bad- minton, softball, and other games. Adequate, un- interrupted space should be available for a variety of these sports if the family enjoys them. Picnics, dances, or outdoor parties are also pop- ular with the older age groups. (See "Outdoor Cook- ing and Eating," p. 63.) 29 Below: Portable play equipment can turn any garden corner into a special area for children. This equipment is not expensive. (Photo by Charles Eames.) 30 While too large for the aver- age garden, this free-form playground sculpture suggests what might be done at home by using a fallen tree with gnarled branches. 31 With imagination and some bright paint, the old-fashioned see-saw can become an attrac- tive garden addition. "Tiger" in background is really a slide. 32 Playground equipment that could be adapted for home use — wood or metal rods em- bedded in cement. (Photos by Harold Winder. Courtesy Oakland Park Department.) Page 24 CONTROLLING the GARDEN CLIMATE Wind and sun can be problems unless they are properly controlled The primary objective in trying to control the climate in a small area is to produce more outdoor comfort. Comfort has to do with both temperature and wind. Therefore, the solution to the problem lies mostly with the control of sun and wind — sun control being of primary concern in summer in many areas. In winter, protection from wind and proper orientation of house and garden are of major im- portance. Control of wind. Tests of wind currents by use of smoke show that wind flows in nearly the same manner as water, and should therefore be handled in much the same way. Wind can be a very trouble- some problem in open country and along the coastal belt. In many areas of California, hedges, screens, and windbreaks are necessary for adequate protec- tion. Temperatures on the lee side of a hedge or windbreak may be several degrees higher than on the windward side, and wind velocity may be re- duced more than half by such structures. Outdoor wind control also influences indoor temperatures, with a corresponding effect upon heating costs. Fences may be used for wind control, but the de- sign and construction may result in varying effects. Plant materials can be effective in wind control. Hedges and other plantings react in the same manner as the lath fence by breaking the force of the wind and diffusing it, rather than pushing it over the top. A hedge may be more effective against wind than a wall or fence. However, the more dense the foliage, the better will be the protection. Control of the sun. Lawns, shrubs, and trees are all effective in controlling heat in the garden and house. Evaporation of moisture from foliage is con- A solid fence acts like a dam and spills the wind over the fop Lath spaced a lath width apart diffuses and breaks up the force of the wind The addition of a baffle permits ' Dense foliage of plant materials the wind to flow over more gently slows down the velocity of the wind (Drawings, top and lower left, from Sunset Ideas for Landscaping Your Home. Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company.) Page 25 siderable, and acts as a cooling system. This is very effective and especially desirable in dry climates. East or west walls may receive twice as much heat in summer as in winter. In the early morning, during the summer months, heat from the sun may be de- sired because the soil and air temperatures outside, and the air temperature inside, are lower at that time of day. In the late afternoon, however, any addi- tional heat is undesirable since the soil and air tem- peratures have been previously warmed. In many of the hot valley regions, it may even be advantageous to keep any morning sun from warming the cool body of air which has formed inside the house dur- ing the night. These facts should be carefully considered in planning the house and the amount of glass to be used. Plant materials combined with sufficient roof overhang generally produce satisfactory control. Houses located in the northern, central, and coastal regions are generally more comfortable in winter when they are oriented so that their living areas face south or southeast. Terraces located on the north or east are usually cooler in summer, but south terraces are desirable in winter. Deciduous trees and vines can be used on walls, on trellises, over windows, terraces, and porches, to produce cool summer living areas. In the fall, the foliage drops, allowing adsorption and reradiation of the winter sun's heat from paving materials at a time when this is most desirable. Plants, in addition to providing shade, absorb and reradiate far less heat than does dry soil or inorganic materials, such as walks, drives, terraces, and walls. In hot regions, to improve the climate, the amount of paving should be kept to a minimum. It has been found that, on hot summer days, the surface temperature above a lawn is often 25 or more degrees below that of a black paved surface. Pave- ment with a dark surface absorbs more heat, whereas surfaces light in color reflect heat but also produce glare. Large paved areas should be designed with openings left in them for trees and other plant ma- terials. Shade trees will lower the air temperature beneath, reduce glare, and prevent absorption of heat from soils and inorganic materials lying be- neath them. Measurements indicate that, under densely foliated trees, only 25 to 30 per cent of the light penetrates through the foliage. The number, location, size, and density of the sur- rounding buildings, the amount of paved area, the trees, shrubs, vines, and grass used, all have signifi- cant effect on the climate of the site. Left: Deciduous vine over glass areas keeps out heat of summer sun, but allows warm winter sun to enter. Below: Oak tree provides shade in summer, sheds leaves in winter. Deciduous trees are best for south and east exposures except in desert areas. Evergreens are generally too cold and damp underneath in winter. *X*&£ CONTROL of SMOKE, DUST, and NOISE Special planning is required in order to control these elements In industrial areas where smoke, dust, and noise are prevalent, any real enjoyment of the garden may be impossible. Smoke and dust control is largely a matter of community action or of careful consider- ation by the homeowner when selecting a site. When choosing a site near considerable industry, it is wise to look for property to the windward side of the city so that smoke, dust, odors, and noise will not become a nuisance. If this is not possible, a large belt of trees, such as a park, between residential and industrial areas may be sufficient to filter and absorb most of the smoke, dust, and noise. It has been found that a wide belt of trees, lawns, and shrubs can re- duce the dust by nearly 75 per cent. Evergreen plant materials should be used where year-round control is desired. (Architectural Forum, March, 1947.) Dust, smoke, chemical-containing fumes from in- dustrial plants, and cold weather combine to pro- duce "smog" which makes visibility poor, cuts out large quantities of light, and may reduce by almost half the ultraviolet rays when they are most needed. Heavy smog may actually affect people's health and cause damage to plants in areas where it is present. A hot-humid summer climate may be prevalent in many cities where the sun's heat is absorbed by smoke and dust. Airborne sound. Plants are constructed much like many commercial acoustical materials, but as they continue to grow, they provide increasingly better sound control. The greater the amount of foli- age, the more openings and pockets there are to trap noise. If choice of plant materials is made with this in mind, reasonably effective control is possible. Walls, fences, and buildings may either reflect sound or carry it through the structural material. Solid, heavy construction, such as brick and con- crete, is far better in preventing sound penetration than is light construction. Smooth surfaces reflect more sound than do rough-textured ones. The con- struction materials and surfacing used for fences and walls depend upon their suitability for a par- ticular garden and upon the amount of noise and traffic to be overcome, nearness to railroads, fac- tories, and the like. Sounds go over fop qz Masonry walls (brick, stone, concrete, etc.) JO reflect sound, show little noise penetration. Wood construction is more easily penetrated OT by noise than is masonry, but it is less expen- '** sive and, in most instances, has proved satis- factory. While plants of dense foliage reflect almost 33 no sounds, they are good noise absorbing materials. Page 27 Deciduous plants work well in the cooler regions where doors and windows are open when these plants are in leaf and, in most areas, are closed in winter when the foliage has dropped. In regions where outdoor living is possible during both winter and summer, evergreen trees and shrubs are recommended for year-round sound control. Lawns are effective in reducing reflected sounds and those which come in contact with the ground. The effectiveness, however, increases with an in- crease in the height of cut. This can be of consider- able importance where there is passing automobile traffic or children playing. Trees and shrubs of dense texture, that is, those having small leaves closely packed together, are the most suitable because they have many more openings, per square foot, between the leaves and branches than do the large, smooth-leaved plants. These openings diffuse and break up the sounds. The native holly-leaved cherry (Prunus ilicifolia) would be suitable for this purpose. Many of the large-leaved plants having hairy, wrinkled, or rough surfaces, such as the sycamore (Platanus spp.), are also suitable. If trees are used, a barrier of shrubs should be planted near the base of the trunks to catch the sound waves passing between. A WORD ABOUT LAWNS In the garden plan there will undoubtedly be open areas planted either to grass or groundcovers. In general, the most satisfactory cover for an area that is to be walked on is a turf grass or a mixture of several grasses. There is really no adequate substi- tute for a well-planted, well-kept lawn. It provides a soft, clean play surface for children; prevents glare; helps cool the atmosphere in hot weather; reduces the tracking of mud in wet weather; prevents soil erosion; filters blowing dust; and is a good sound absorbing material. In addition to deciding where a lawn is to be planted, consider its purpose (heavy traffic, play area, etc.), whether trees will shade it, the type of soil available, grading, if necessary, and drainage provisions. All these will determine what type of lawn to plant, and the selection of seed. You may even find that relatively little mowed turf will be necessary. Other than grasses and clover, dichondra is one of the few groundcovers which makes a suitable turf for walking and playing. It requires high nitrogen fertilizers and as much water as most turf grasses, but no mowing is necessary unless an even surface is desired. Establishing and weeding it may be prob- lems. It is also subject to root-knot nematodes. A few grasses, such as those of the Zoysia species, do not grow very high, and therefore need little cut- ting. Zoysia matrella is one of the most successful for a situation such as this. Page 28 PLANTS and PLANTING Selecting the right plants is an important step in garden planning Plants are essential elements comprising any gar- den. They should be used to define or enclose space; as a surfacing material; for overhead shelter; and to lend color, form, structure, pattern, and texture interest. Because they grow and change constantly, the problem of planning a garden is a difficult one. However, the basic forms and structures of plants are known, so that it is possible to predict what a tree or shrub, with proper care, will be like when it reaches maturity. The selection of plants should be made only after a general design has been carefully worked out. Then each plant can be chosen for a definite location to serve a specific function in the over-all plan of the garden. Before buying nursery plants, ask yourself the following questions: What form and size of plant is needed? Is it to be a groundcover; dwarf shrub; large shrub for enclosure, privacy, or windbreak; small or large tree? The importance of plants, according to their use, lies in their relation to the scale of a person, and whether they grow above or below his eye level. 1 . Vines may be used for screening unsightly areas; to secure privacy; as a means of cooling porches and terraces; to prevent glare and heat ab- sorption on paved areas; or for their interesting growth forms, foliage, flowers, fruit, pattern, and texture. Plants that attract numbers of insects should be avoided. The trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) often attracts ants which may become a nuisance. Vines climb by means of various devices, such as: twining stems (wistaria and honeysuckle) ; tendrils (grape) ; rootlike holdfasts along the stems (trum- pet vines, English ivy) ; tendrils with adhesive disks (Boston ivy) ; drooping or rambling over a support, such as an arbor or trellis (climbing or rambler roses, winter jasmine). 2. Groundcovers (to 12 inches high — below eye level of persons sitting). These reduce main- tenance; cut down the heat absorption of the soil; help prevent soil erosion; and provide pattern and texture interest. If they are to be used, investigate their growth habits, soil and moisture requirements, (8) Large Trees, 50'+ ")'' V- (conifers) usually used ' ^,_3 for background screen Terrace (2) Ground Covers, 0-12" 39 Landscape plants may be divided into eight size groups determined by the average eye level of the person sitting or standing. (Drawing based on Standard Size Groups by Ralph W. Curtis, Cornell University.) Page 29 Above: Plant structure should be visible. Vines mm* that are permitted to grow too thick conceal ™J not only their own form but also the support- ing material. 41 Below: Dwarf shrubs such as daphne (D. odora marginata) are slow growing but useful, re- quire almost no pruning, do not conceal win- dows or crowd the walks. (Photos by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) susceptibility to pests and diseases, reactions to sun or shade, and their aggressiveness against weed en- croachment. Some of the most successful ones for California include bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Aaron's beard (Hypericum calycinum) , and com- mon periwinkle (Vinca minor). While ajuga and most other groundcovers fall into the class of plants that are not compact or low enough or are too tender to withstand trampling, they are, however, very use- ful in areas where there is no traffic. 3. Dwarf shrubs (l 1 /^ to 3 feet high — below eye level of persons sitting). Their main advantage is the fact that they are still small when mature, and will not require constant pruning to keep them from obscuring the view or cutting out light. Examples of several excellent dwarf shrubs suitable for most regions of California are: three members of the rock-rose family (Cistus), C. crispus, C. purpureus, and C. villosus; the dwarf Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonicus var. microphyllus) ; and the tamarisk juniper (Juniperus Sabina var. tamarisci- folia). 4. Small shrubs (4 to 5 feet high — above eye level of persons sitting; below eye level of persons standing). These plants provide a low screen or barrier. Even small shrubs may be too large to be used next to the house. Three shrubs suitable in this classification are: Pfitzer's juniper (Juniperus chi- nensis var. Pfitzeriana) ; India hawthorne (Ra- phiolepis indica) ; and a species of germander ( Teucrium fruticans ) . 5. Medium shrubs (6 to 8 feet high — above eye level of persons standing). This group is useful in providing a screen from the public view. The cotoneasters (parneyi), (pannosa), and (harrovi- ana) ; escallonia (E. macrantha) ; heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) ; Japanese pittosporum (Pitto- sporum Tobira) ; the pyracanthas (P. coccinea) and (P. crenato-serrata) fall within this group. 6. Large shrubs (12 to 25 feet high). Plants in this group grow high enough to screen off areas above the eye level. They are therefore useful in obtaining privacy and for windbreak purposes. These shrubs are most important as space enclosing materials. Five useful large shrubs for these situa- tions are: the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) ; thorny eleagnus (E. pungens) ; the Australian tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) ; and the Chinese photinia (Photinia serrulata) . 7. Small trees (12 to 25 feet high). Usually a view is blocked somewhat by overhead branching and is clearly visible only if people are sitting. Small trees are used for flower and foliage interest, • i l:' ^»* * » • " K '* 9i *£m . v.V- ' % % * \" 4*" ~Jn /*»**-.'- '3 m n Groundcover of bugle weed (Ajuga reptens) under the trees eliminates the necessity for weeding or "^ mowing. Various elements of this garden integrate well with one another. (Palo Alto, Calif. Photo by Shan Stewart. Geraldine Scott, Landscape Architect.) for screening, and for form and structural interest. Many of them may be too small to produce much usable shade. Among the interesting small trees are: the silk tree (Albizzia julibrissin) ; loquat (Erio- botrya japonica) ; carob (Ceratonia siliqua) ; gold- enrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) ; and the mayten tree (Maytenus boaria). 8. Large trees (50 feet or over). Overhead branching, with the exception of most of the conif- erous or narrow-leaved trees, is usually high enough to permit an unobstructed line of sight beneath even when people are standing. Trees with broad, spread- ing branches provide overhead protection from the hot sun. However, the density, extent, and type of foliage determine the amount of shelter given. De- ciduous trees have distinct advantages over ever- greens. Their foliage cools the garden in summer, but does not remain during the fall and winter months when the house and garden need the full benefit of the sun. Broad-leaved evergreen trees may be desired, however, for year-round shade in the Imperial Valley and other desert areas. The narrow- leaved evergreens generally grow into an upright form, and are useful for dust and noise control and for windbreak purposes, both in winter and summer. They may, however, present problems because of continuous needle dropping. It is also well to find out about the root system of a tree. If it is shallow-rooted, it may blow down in a storm; if it has deep or wide spreading roots it may become entangled in the sewer or drainage systems. Trees with weak wood may also cause dam- age if they cannot withstand a storm. Others may have harmful diseases that cause premature leaf drop. Large trees may be divided into two general groups: deciduous (those which lose their leaves annually); and evergreen (those which hold green leaves throughout the year). Most deciduous plant- are broad-leaved, but both broad- and narrow-leaved plants are found in abundance in the evergreen group. Examples of both groups are listed below. DECIDUOUS Chinese hackberry {Cellis sinensis) Maidenhair tree {Gingko biloba) Thornless honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis) Tulip tree (Liriodendroii tulipifera) Chinese pistachio (Pistacia chinensis) Page 31 43 Plants have a wide range of form and growth habits. Where large trees are the center of interest, the other plantings may be kept simple. (Photo by Rondal Partridge. Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.) EVERGREEN Narrow-leaved Deodar cedar {Cedrus Deodara) Incense cedar (Libocedrus decurrens) Monterey pine (Pinus radiata) Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis) Coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) Broad-leaved Bottle tree (Br achy chiton populneus) Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus spp.) Bull bay (Magnolia grandiflora) California live oak (Quercus agrijolia) How large is the garden area? The extent of the garden space should determine the materials to be used in it, especially with regard to their size at maturity. The very small yard should not be planted with large shrubs and trees which are not in scale with the size of the garden. They restrict what little space exists, and crowd and con- ceal doors, windows, and walks. How fast and how large do plants grow? The mature size and rate of growth of each plant must be known in order to determine just what func- tion it can serve. For example, many fast growing trees are short lived and have serious structural weaknesses as compared with the slower growing plants which are more sturdy and more permanent. Also, by knowing how large a plant will be when fully grown, the homeowner can allow adequate space for it at the planting stage, and avoid future problems with ungainly shrubs and oversized trees. He may find the answers to these and many other questions by consulting his county Farm Advisor, local nurserymen, landscape architects, and the many publications available in most libraries. What is the plant's natural form, structure, and type of foliage? This must be known in order to use plants cor- rectly. Under normal conditions, plants will achieve certain distinguishable forms and structure patterns, such as a twining vine, a prostrate or erect shrub, a dense or open shade tree. The type of foliage and the amount of coverage given also determine how a plant is to be used. It is always best to observe how a plant actually grows in a particular locale. It may be possible to visit arboretums and botanical gardens near by. One may see well established plants at the following arboretums: in southern California, at Anaheim, the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, at San Marino, the Huntington Botanical Gardens; in the central coastal region, at Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara Botanic Gardens; in northern California, at San Francisco, the Strybing Arboretum at Golden Gate Park, at Berkeley, Davis, and Los Angeles, the Uni- -ttgfg^ mm Plants with wide spreading growth habits ^^ should be avoided near walks and entrances. Page 32 versity of California Arboretums and Botanical Gardens, at Sacramento, the Capitol Park, and at Placerville, the Institute of Forest Genetics. Is the plant deciduous or evergreen? Generally, most deciduous trees and shrubs flower more profusely than do the evergreen types. When deciding between them, remember that evergreen plants produce a cold, damp area underneath them during the winter months. For this reason, ever- green trees should not be used on south and east exposures except in desert areas. Both types should be used in combination, however, because a garden would be dull and drab in winter with only decidu- ous materials, and would lack color if only ever- greens were used. What is the color of the flowers, fruit, bark, and foliage? Determine first whether the selection of a plant is mainly for its flower or fruit characteristics or for the function its form plays in the garden plan. Plants grown to provide cutting flowers, such as the hybrid tea roses, should be grown together in a separate area where proper care and management can be provided. A few evergreens, such as the heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) and the Chinese photinia (Photinia serrulata) , produce, in most localities, in- teresting red to bronze foliage coloring. Among the deciduous plants, the Chinese pistachio (Pistacia chinensis) turns orange to red, and the maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba) to a fine, clear yellow. A tremendous variety of plants is available — those with yellow flowers, such as the flannel bush (Fremontia spp.), fragrant white flowers and rich, dark green foliage of the star jasmine (Trachelo- spermum jasminoides) , silvery gray foliage of the germander (Teucrium fruticans), clusters of red berries of the toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), and those with interesting edible fruit, such as the kum- quat (Fortunella) and the loquat (Eriobotrya). The home gardener should be warned, however, not to try to grow everything. Too great a variety generally results in a cluttered and unorganized appearance. What are the cultural requirements of the plants? The selection of plants should be determined in part by the cultural requirements necessary for healthy growth — the amount of maintenance, prun- ing, spraying, dusting, and watering required; In this garden, succulents have been used to AC advantage. They are especially desirable for dry locations — are also good for use in con- tainers. (Photo by Mason Weymouth. Geraldine Scott, Landscape Architect.) Cactus and succulents are available in many AL forms and sizes, require little water and up- keep. They must be used properly to be effec- tive. (Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) Page 33 hardiness; tolerance of sun, shade, and moisture; and types of soil in which plants are to be grown. The homeowner should consult his local Farm Ad- visor or nurseryman concerning these problems. What about native plants? Western gardens should be composed of many plants indigenous to the climate. However, almost 90 per cent of the plants used are either foreign in- troductions or from the eastern United States, where climatic conditions are entirely different. California has many native trees and shrubs with interesting ornamental flowers and fruit that compare very favorably with the introductions commonly grown in most gardens. Native plants require little watering except to get them established. Many cannot tolerate any summer watering, although some can. This makes their use with other ornamentals somewhat difficult. Knowl- edge of the water requirements is necessary in the selection and use of natives. Many suffer from lack of drainage caused either by heavy soils or insuffi- cient surface slope. The fact that little water is re- quired should be of special interest to homeowners where available water may be scarce. A few natives of outstanding value for landscape purposes are the toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), redbud (Cercis occidentalis) , flannel bush (Fre- montia), holly -leaved cherry (Prunus illicifolia), the oaks (Quercus spp.), California lilac (Cea- nothus spp.), and the madrone (Arbutus Menziesii). Many of the most common ones can be purchased at local nurseries, and a few nurserymen specialize in native materials. Many foreign plants have characteristics similar to those of the California natives. For example, plants from the Mediterranean region and Australia often have similar water and cultural requirements and can be used successfully in combination with local natives. Familiar ones are the olive, eucalyp- tus, pomegranate, and camphor. SELECTING NURSERY STOCK Have a good plan. Before visiting the nurs- ery, develop a workable and sound plan. Select ma- terials that are already growing well in your locality or those adapted to local climatic conditions. Try to avoid accepting gift plants from friends and neighbors unless such plants have a definite place in the garden plan and are free of diseases and insects. Select from a reliable firm in the locality. The better nurseries are interested in establishing and maintaining a good reputation, and will seldom offer inferior stock for sale. When ordering plant material, investigate whether county-line inspections will delay shipment. Avoid "pot-bound" materials. Plants which ap- pear too large for their containers are usually pot- bound. The roots may have difficulty in overcoming this condition even after the plant is placed in the ground. Deciduous materials are usually sold "bare root" during the early spring months. It is advantageous to obtain them in this condition as they are less expensive than are those growing in containers. Bare root plants should be planted while still in a dormant condition. They are usually available in cans after they have come out of their dormancy. Evergreen plants are generally sold in cans, tubs, boxes, or balled in burlap. Plants purchased in con- tainers generally may be planted at any season of the year. MAINTENANCE The maintenance factor should be carefully con- sidered when drawing up a design plan and when selecting the materials that will be used to carry out the design. Without proper care of the garden upon its completion, most of the preliminary work in planning and plant selection will be only wasted effort. The planning stage is the time to apply the test to determine whether a garden design is prac- tical, well planned, and a workable solution for the one who is to maintain it. If you are not the garden- ing kind, design the garden for as little work as possible. But if you are interested in gardening, it may be well to plan so that if the garden should become burdensome in later years, the maintenance can be reduced without destroying the design. Be- fore planning begins, list those items which require the most and least maintenance. Items requiring the most maintenance 1. Lawns (mowing, edging, clipping, watering, weeding, and spraying for insects and diseases). Level or nearly level, open lawn areas having straight sides, not cut up with trees and shrubs, are easier to care for than sloping land or small areas with curved or irregular shapes, interrupted with various types of planting or architectural materials. Actually only a moderate amount of the garden demands a surface to be walked on, but most of it is usually planted to turf grasses. Many surface cover- ing materials, such as the groundcovers, some of the Page 34 Zoysia and fescue grasses which grow only a few inches high, and paving materials, can be used to reduce the time spent in mowing and care, espe- cially on slopes or in areas which are small and restricted. 2. Flowers. Annuals and perennials are not so permanent as woody plants, usually do not provide so good a surface covering, and require additional work in starting, dividing, planting, staking, tying, spraying or dusting, weeding, and watering. There are, however, some excellent compact growing perennials and succulents which form good surface covers and add color and interest in foliage and flowers. Some of these include the sedums, the wild strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis), and many of the Gazania and Senecio species. Gardens designed originally for beds of flowers or bulbs should be replaceable at any time with low-maintenance materials, such as the ornamental St. Johnswort (Hypericum calycinum) (not to be confused with Klamath weed [Hypericum perfor- atum]), English ivy (Hedera helix), and bugle- weed (Ajuga reptens). 47 Lawn mower runs over an edging strip of brick, so that hand clipping is not required. 3. Clipped hedges. Some hedge plants, such as the privets (Ligustrum), grow very rapidly and often require a great deal of maintenance to keep them within the desired form. For hedges, it is well to consider plants such as the holly-leafed cherry (Prunus illicifolia) which makes an excellent hedge because it is fairly slow growing and requires little clipping. PRUNE TO PRESERVE STRUCTURE If the proper plants have been chosen for the gar- den, very little pruning will be necessary. Any that is done will be merely enough to preserve the natural form of the plant; to remove dead material, broken or rubbing branches, or old flowers and fruit; or, with hedges and espaliered plants, to maintain the desired form. Shade trees sometimes produce suck- ers and secondary leaders which need to be removed. Aside from the above-mentioned exceptions, land- scape plants should be permitted to develop their natural forms and growth habits and should re- quire little pruning. Should extensive pruning become necessary, it usually means that the original choice of plant ma- terials was not made wisely. Then shrubs and trees must be pruned to remove wide spreading branches that block movement along a walk or drive; to per- mit a view of the garden from inside the house; or to let in sunlight. The best way to correct such mistakes is to remove the overgrown plants and replace them either with dwarf shrubs or ones that will not outgrow a given situation. This will also reduce maintenance. Good pruning requires special skill. It can be de- structive when done by an inexperienced person. "Trimming" can keep many shrubs from producing flowers and fruit in addition to destroying their natural form and structure. We have all seen, at some time, a once beautiful plant reduced to a few- sticks or stumps by amateur pruning. Before you prune, ask yourself, "Does the plant need pruning and, if so, why?" Better yet, choose the right plants to begin with, and pruning need never become a problem. Page 35 SIMPLIFIED GARDENING is possible when you use containers 48 Right: Portable earthenware containers are large enough to prevent rapid drying out and cramping of the root systems. (Photo by James H. Reed. Courtesy Architectural Pottery, Venice, Calif.) Left: Variety in a lim- ited area can be achieved by use of built-in containers. (San Francisco, Calif. Photo by Ernest Braun. Lawrence Hal- prin, Landscape Architect.) Right: Outdoor foliage plants 50 ma Y be kept in bounds by use of permanent containers. (La Jolla, Calif. Photo by Robert B. Deering.) PLANT CONTAINERS Both portable and stationary types provide variety and ease of maintenance It is often desirable to use plant containers, not only indoors but also outside the house. Such plant- ings add interest to a garden setting by their foliage, texture, or seasonal changes. One of the main drawbacks to growing plants in this manner is that constant watering is required — the year around, indoors, and during the summer months outside. However, many interesting desert plants, as well as cacti and succulents, require very little water and adapt well to being grown in con- tainers. Plantings of succulents, such as species of eche- veria and kalanchoe, used with cacti, such as the dwarf prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) or the Cereus species, often result in very interesting combina- tions. The most satisfactory arrangement for such plant- ings is to have the containers built into the floor of the house or as part of the permanent garden design. The larger they are, the more plants can be grown, with less watering required. Built-in containers are easier to water and keep clean than are a series of individual pots or tubs scattered throughout the house. Small, unglazed clay pots dry out fast be- cause they are porous. Plants grown in such pots require more watering than do those in almost all other types of containers. There are, however, many advantages to movable containers. Because they can be changed around from one location to another they can be useful in improving the appearance of terrace or patio — per- haps as temporary decoration during outdoor enter- taining. They may be used to provide color at a time when other, permanent plantings are not at their best. And they also provide one simple method of improving older gardens where extensive remodel- ing or new plantings may not be feasible. Requirements of good plant containers are: 1 . Resistance to rot. Redwood, asbestos, clay, con- crete, and masonry are suitable. The rust-proof metals, such as corrugated aluminum, may also be used. 2. Sturdy construction that will not warp. 3. Correct size. Containers should be large enough to keep roots from becoming pot bound and from drying out too rapidly. 4. Ease of watering. (Holes should be provided for good drainage.) Any plant with especially interesting form, struc- ture, and foliage may be suitable for growing in a container. However, cultural requirements of cer- tain plants may prohibit their use in confined spaces. Also, the indoor atmosphere of many homes is too warm and dry for ornamentals. Under such condi- tions, succulents or desert plants would be better. The following plants have proved interesting and useful when grown in containers: Red horse chestnut (Aesculus carnea) Camellia (Camellia spp.) Mirror plant (Coprosma baueri) Fatshedera (F. lizei) Fatsia (F. japonica) Maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba) Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulan geaim) Monterey pine {Pinus radiata) Dwarf rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis var. pros- tratus) Weeping hemlock (Tsuga canadensis var. pendula I Viburnum {V. rhytidophyllum) A low "tray" on wheels holds a variety of CI containers, can be moved easily for use in- doors or outside. (Photo and design by Charles Eames.) Left: Spun glass and plastic material was used 52 f° r tms excellent light screen. (Coffee table is concrete, with embedded steel legs.) (Photo by Ezra Stoller. James B. Rose, Landscape Architect.) Below, left: ' mits light to e y conceals a service area, per- r heavy or massive. (Photo by Shan Stewart.) Below, center: a solid wooden ture and by the use of a vari< (Thomas D. Church, I I ■"' * iff*. '*■>' ^' r -. ■ '■ *Sr * v'/-T "" -Ti* '*3frz*i® METHODS of ENCLOSURE The kind you choose should be related to the design of the house Walls, fences, and screens may be used in the gar- den to serve several purposes. They may eliminate unsightly views; afford privacy; confine children and pets ; act as windbreaks ; or provide backgrounds for shrubs, trees, and flowers. Several functions may be served by a single structure. Fencing is expensive, and requires considerable time to build and maintain. The homeowner often makes the common mistake of using walls and fences where they are not needed. For example, it is gen- erally unnecessary to build a fence on the street side of the property or along the line where your lawn joins that of your neighbor. Another mistake to avoid is the overuse of one type of fencing material. Fences look best when used in conjunction with planting, and should be related to the design of the house. Combinations of wood, masonry, wire with vines, and plant material can be used successfully to produce interesting results that are not monotonous. The best walls and fences are simple (without trimming or fancy work). They are less conspicuous and easier to build and maintain than are more elaborate ones. Fences for the control of wind and for situations where privacy and cooling breezes are desired re- quire special design and construction. (See "Con- trolling the Garden Climate," p. 25.) When one analyzes the problem of screening for privacy, he will notice that it is generally essential to obstruct the view only at eye level as shown in Figure 56. In addition, it is seldom necessary to provide solid screening — to divert the attention from an unwanted view on the opposite side may be enough. :e was made interesting by its struc- r r Straight wooden poles laced together form an effective background if plant materials. for decorative plaque, built-in plant' container. ;ape Architect.) (Photo by Douglas Baylis, Landscape Architect. Plaque by Florence Swift.) v4i BH^r sr!^*i_ ~ : K * * '. t %md m A M &L2 0* L^f liitf. '- fr ,,"■ &m raSMSBSI! Wire fabric painted in a light 56 color can be used effectively for partial screening. (Student Garden, Dept. of Landscape Man- agement, Univ. of Calif., Davis. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deer- ing.) 57 Corrugated transite is excellent for screening. It is strong, will not rot, and is easy to use. (Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deering.) 58 Wooden screens placed at correct angles to a line of sight give privacy while allowing access at all points. (Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.) GRADING, DRAINAGE, and RETAINING WALLS Some grading is always necessary, but the problem is serious on hillside sites A site with nearly level land presents fewer de- velopment problems than does a hilly site, is less costly, easier to landscape, and more usable. On some hillside sites, provision for adequate grading and drainage may be complex, difficult, and expen- sive. Surface water runoff. Every site, including level ones, must have some grading to provide for drainage. This is necessary to insure that surface water will flow away from the house, in a direction where it will not cause damage to the land or to neighboring property. Only a gentle slope is re- quired, which need not be visible to the eye. Groundcovers and other plant materials help pre- vent erosion caused by surface water. If your prop- erty has banks and slopes, consider the steepness and the type of plant material to be used. These factors are important with respect to future maintenance. (See "Plants and Planting," p. 29.) Drainage from roofs. Water from downspouts may cause damage and wash away soil. One solution to this problem is to pipe the water into the city storm sewer system if there is one. If this is not possible, such drainage water may be piped into a small underground sump. Water should not be piped into septic tanks or into the sanitary sewer system. "Splash blocks" placed under downspouts lessen the force of the water, and are inexpensive. Living areas should be level. There are sev- eral methods for achieving level areas without exca- vating or filling. Sometimes it may be more practical to extend a deck, porch, or terrace out over a slope, on wooden posts or steel pipe columns, rather than to use fill or retaining walls. For smaller slopes, the retaining wall method may be simpler and more practical. Keep in mind that the natural beauty of the land is not enhanced when its form and con- tours are greatly changed merely to provide level areas. This is an important consideration in choosing a site. The hilly one you have in mind may look at- tractive, but it might be less expensive and more satisfactory, in the end, to select a different one with fewer grading problems. Filling and excavating around trees. It is often necessary to raise or lower the grade around trees to produce level areas for better use of space. .a The problem of building on sloping land was solved here by constructing the house on two levels. ^ * Landscaping is always more expensive on sloping land. (Photo by Julius Shulman. Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1951, The Conde Nast Publications, Inc. Gordon Drake, Architect.) le downward away from trunk Above: Satisfactory method for raising the AQ grade around a tree. Below: Overhead view of plan, showing placement of tile system. (Based on drawings in Maintenance of Shade and Ornamen- tal Trees, by P. P. Pirone. Oxford University Press, New York.) f^"'."El* I Excavated Soil ffJT^V Above: Diagram shows one method for lower- q] ing the grade around a tree. Below: Overhead view of same diagram. ight Bell Tile Outer Branches of Tree This may cause serious difficulties if proper precau- tions are not taken before grading is done. While most trees will not suffer from the application of a few inches of topsoil, serious injury may result from incorrect use of fill around trees. Symptoms of such injury are: small, yellow leaves; suckering at base of trunk and branches; dead twigs and branches. The extent of injury depends upon the tree's species, age, condition, upon the depth and type of fill, and the drainage. Trees most severely injured are maples, oaks, and coniferous evergreens. Those least affected are elms, willows, poplars, planes, and locusts. Injury becomes more serious with increasing depth of fill. The nonporous clay soils cause the most damage. Application of several inches of gravelly soil, or soil of the type in which the tree has been Page 42 growing, will generally do no harm. Additional roots usually will be produced in this area. Is the tree worth saving? The cost of leveling and grading is high. A young tree can be replaced for less than the price of the precautionary measures. Consider the following questions in deciding what is to be done: Is the tree old, weak, and not worth saving? Is it sickly, with injuries that will shorten its life? Is it a short-lived species? Is it susceptible to deadly diseases? Lowering grade does not disturb normal function- ing of roots nearly so much as does filling. The prin- cipal disturbance is in changing the water supply. Many California natives have such deep root systems that lowering the natural grade around them results in almost no appreciable change in their continued growth. Injury may result from sunscalding, and some roots will die if they are bared. Damaged roots should he treated and kept from drying by covering them with peat moss and incorporating well-rotted manure or leaf mold into the soil to increase the water intake. Terracing, building walls, or boxing in a sufficient area around the tree and leaving the original grade disturb the tree the least, and will still provide an adequate amount of usable level area. A number of drainage outlets, or "weep holes," should be con- structed in the walls to allow for water run-off. (The material on trees, in this section, is based on information in Maintenance of Shade and Orna- mental Trees, by P. P. Pirone. See references, p. 69. ) Good trees are worth saving. Photos left and below show attractive use of redwood, con- crete, and brick for boxing. (Left: Photo by Phil Fein. Courtesy American Home Magazine. Below. Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1950, The Conde' Nast Publications, Inc. Eckbo, Royston and Wi liams, Landscape Architects.) Page 43 , « Broad, brick treads with low risers provide ease of movement from one garden level to another. Note 03 how both flights of steps integrate with the brick and stone walls, give continuity to the design. (Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.) Page 44 WALKS, STEPS, and RAMPS Sound construction determines the success of these garden details The various levels of the garden should be easily accessible, and this may be achieved by means of walks, steps, and ramps. Walks. In general, walks should be as direct as possible for ease of access. However, in cases where their use may mean dividing up a fine lawn into two or more unrelated areas, thereby spoiling the ap- pearance, a less direct route should be planned. Be sure that it is not so indirect that shortcuts will be taken. Walks are expensive, and their use should be justi- fied. Most homes need paved walks only where ex- cessive traffic along the same areas would wear away the turf. The inexperienced person should lay walks that have straight sides, and turn at an angle rather than curve. Curved walks are difficult to construct, and generally do not look so well with houses having rectangular lines. They often look awkward because they appear to wander around the property for no apparent reason. Straight walks need not be monot- onous, nor must they always have parallel sides. They may be expanded to wider areas where people are likely to concentrate, such as near doorways, at the street entrance, or adjoining parking areas and drives. This expansion should be in the direction from which the traffic comes, which may mean that a walk will be larger on one side than on the other. z - Walks need not be laid in continuous strips. The plan shown above does not cut up the lawn area 04 and is less monotonous. (Drawing from design by Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) Page 45 65 These inexpensive steps are constructed of redwood risers filled with crushed gravel to form broad, convenient treads. (Marin County, Calif. Photo by Esther Born. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) In widening, use only straight or angular sides, since flaring curves appear awkward and may spoil the appearance of the whole area. Build walks wide enough. Most walks are too narrow. A walk leading to the front entrance should be wide enough to accommodate two people walking side by side, or passing in opposite directions. This requires a walk about 4 feet wide. For service use, walks 21/2 to 3 feet wide are adequate. The widest, most prominent and attractive walks should lead to the front and main entrances; smaller and less con- spicuous ones, to the back and service entrances. Walks need not be laid in continuous strips. A straight walk constructed through the middle of the front lawn divides it into two areas unrelated to each other. Laying the paving in separate sections and allowing grass or a groundcover to carry through from one area to another reduce the feeling of sharp separation. Changing the width and size of the slabs also helps considerably. Construct walks well for safety. A walk consisting of teetering stepping stones, waste cement, rough-cut flagstone, or irregular pieces of stone can be more hazardous than most people realize. Bad falls can result from tripping, or catching one's heel. Maintenance. Stepping stones and walks of irregular pattern require much time in edging and trimming. Usually grass grows between the stones, requiring that each be clipped around by hand. Some stones may protrude above the ground enough to nick the blades of the mower. If this type of walk is desired, large, rectangular stones with dwarf groundcovers, such as sandwort ( Arenaria) , bugle- weed (Ajuga reptans), or dichondra, planted be- tween them are recommended to reduce the amount of hand labor. (See "Paving Materials and Con- struction Methods," p. 53.) Steps and ramps. Steps and ramps should be carefully designed and soundly constructed so that they will not become a hazard under wet, frosty, or icy conditions. Garden steps should be constructed with broader treads and lower risers than those used on steps in- doors. Because of the greater space available out- side, such steps can be used to achieve greater safety. Long flights of steps should be broken up with land- ings for ease in climbing. This type of construction requires considerable experience, and is generally more than the amateur should undertake by himself. Ramps are often constructed where the change in level is gradual. They are easier to climb than steps, and allow movement of wheelbarrows and garden equipment from one level to another. If the slope is too steep, the ramp can be broken at intervals with steps (a stepped-ramp). Page 46 DRIVES, GARAGES, PARKING, and TURNAROUNDS Location of these elements must be determined at planning stage Before locating the house and garage on the prop- erty, make sure that there is ample room for an ade- quate driveway and, if possible, a convenient turn- around. Plan garage, parking, drive, and turnaround near the service area and away from the main rooms of the house. This permits convenient loading and un- loading, and keeps glare and noise from penetrating the living areas. Place these areas between the house and street, if possible, to reduce paving costs and to prevent the use of the most desirable part of the property for this purpose. Consider the following suggestions when design- ing and laying out drives and turnarounds. Driveway 1. Construct the driveway soundly — strong enough for trucks and wide enough for backing. It should be wider on curved sections. 2. It should not be winding nor too long. This wastes usable land, is costly, and makes it difficult to back out the car. Neither should it be shorter than the length of the garage. 3. Avoid having to back the car into a busy street. 4. Where possible, eliminate steep slopes and bad dips at the intersection of the street. In areas where frost, sleet, or snow occur, the driveway should be as nearly level as possible. 5. It should be convenient for unloading passen- gers near the front and rear entrances. 6. It should be well constructed and convenient for service and delivery trucks. 7. Allow space for parking additional cars so that they will not interfere with use of the driveway. 8. Provide shade over the parking area. You may wish to avoid shade trees such as the black walnuts as they often harbor aphids that produce "honey dew." This may become more of a nuisance than heat from the sun. To determine what trees are suit- able, observe sidewalks and car windshields. 9. Curbs may be needed in the parking area to keep cars off lawns and plantings. When curbs are used, the drive should be lowered 3 to 4 inches so that the top of the curb will be level with the grass or walk. Adequate drainage must be provided. 10. A curb and walk at the base of a retaining wall prevent scraping of fenders, and allow ade- quate space for passengers to get out of the car. 1 1 . Use very low planting or omit plantings and gateways altogether at the intersection of the street as they may obscure the view of pedestrians or of children playing. 12. A straight and level area at least the length of the car should be constructed in front of the garage. 13. The driveway may also be designed to serve as an area for adult games such as badminton or volleyball. 14. Avoid building on new fill which has not settled. 15. A good surface which drains away from the house should be provided. 16. Design the surface against glare and light reflection by using dark colors and by texturing. Garage and carport In some areas of California, only an overhead cover, or carport, may be necessary to protect the car against the elements and to shelter passengers in inclement weather. In many areas, however, a closed garage may be needed because of damage to the car from hot sun, blowing sand and dust. moist, salty air, and coastal fog. The garage is likely to become a catch-all for clutter now that most homes no longer contain attics and basements. To prevent this, separate storage space should be provided in both carport and garage. Page 47 A storage unit could be built along one side of a car- port. In addition to providing extra space, it would act as a structural element and, perhaps, as a wind- break. When planning the house, try to avoid, if possible, garages with doors opening directly onto the street. A garage or carport attached to the house is more convenient and accessible in all weather conditions. Place it close to the property line unless there is space for a turnaround. Avoid the basement garage. This arrangement is generally unattractive and usually unsatisfactory if the drive slopes abruptly. Garages should be large enough so that the car may enter and leave easily. There should be room for car doors to swing open wide enough to allow passengers to get in or out. It is well to provide hose bibs and a level area in front of the garage to facilitate washing. Turnaround A turnaround or turncourt enables the driver to enter the street head on, which is much safer and easier than backing the length of a long drive into a busy street. If a turnaround is desired, planning for adequate space should be one of the prime considerations when selecting the site. Serious difficulties and an- noying inconveniences may arise from failure to consider these problems early in the planning stages. Allow a straight area of 15 to 20 feet in front of the garage before beginning a turn. The inside radius of a turn should be 18 to 20 feet. A driveway 8 feet wide is the minimum for straight sections where no cars pass. An additional l^/o to 2 feet should be added to the width of the drive on turns. As the turncourt is a portion of the service area, the living area windows should not face it because the large amount of paving is usually glaring, hot, and unattractive. A turnaround located at the side of the property or between house and street saves con- siderable expense in paving. It should be placed so that the car is directed away from the house en- trances and walks when backing, to avoid pedes- trians, and children at play. Adequate space should be allowed so that the turnaround will not occupy the major or most prominent portion of the lot. The size and construction of the turnaround should be judged by what vehicles will use it. Often furniture vans and oil and delivery trucks use the drive. Therefore, ample turning room and a heavy- duty road bed should be provided. Sometimes it may be advisable to locate the turn- around behind the garage, with garage doors at both front and rear. Such an arrangement would provide a sheltered play area. It is helpful to have the area between car shelter and house lighted. Lighting should be planned with two-way switches so that lights may be turned on and off at both garage and house. g , Colored line shows area allowed for driveway, turnaround, extra parking, and car shelter. (See plan OO on the opposite page.) Page 48 Street , j Plan of the design shown on facing page. This is a good solution to the problem of providing space for **/ the automobile in a limited area. Note that wall of the carport is also a storage unit. Page 49 I'.'i ' i V I I I ' I I I I ' ' Which terrace will be used more often? Above: This terrace was built up from the garden to the floor 68 ' eve ' °f the house, thus making it easy to move food and furniture from indoors. Below: The same terrace, at garden level, would necessitate carrying food or moving furniture up and down steps. Page 50 TERRACES, PORCHES, and GARDEN SHELTERS For maximum enjoyment, plan the pf outdoor rooms" near indoor living areas Paved areas should be finished early in the con- struction stages so that the garden may be used while the landscaping is being completed. Location. Terraces, porches, and garden shelters should be designed as integral parts of the house, and located adjacent to it. They can be made large enough to permit entertaining. However, such areas will not be used fully unless they are conveniently located in relation to the kitchen and living areas of the house. A terrace placed at the rear of the prop- erty is not convenient for outdoor living unless it is equipped with complete kitchen facilities. This is costly, and is generally not a very desirable arrange- ment. Orientation. Porches and terraces facing the street are expensive because the lack of privacy and convenience offers little possibility for use. In most areas of California, terraces should be located on the south or east sides of the house for year-round use. In desert areas, a northeast orientation may \>e preferable. North or northeast terraces are always cooler in summer when located close to the house. However, their location may also depend upon local views, wind direction, and the attaining of privacy. Generally, if sun is to be enjoyed outdoors in winter, protection from wind is needed. West exposures are often unusable in the summer months during the late afternoon. Privacy, and protection from sun, wind, i q Terrace constructed with a redwood and concrete grid system needs no reinforcing. Paving only an *» ' inch below house floor allows easy access. (Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deering.) Page 51 «a Left: Terrace and overhead shelter relate house to garden and encourage outdoor living. Right: Open * " framework in overhead shelter casts shadows on terrace and provides a support for vines. (Photos by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) and rain may be achieved through use of roofing, lath, canvas, vines, shrubs, and fences. Screening porches against mosquitoes and other insects may be advisable in many regions. Paved areas more usable. A hard paved area makes a fine surface for children to play on when the ground is too wet and soft to use. Paved terraces, if well drained, dry quickly and can be used soon after a rain. It is recommended that, when- ever possible, the house be built close to the ground for easy access to the outdoors. Usually an inch dif- ference from house to terrace floor will be sufficient to keep rain out. This permits food to be wheeled outside instead of carried up and down steps. When building a terrace for a house with its floor a foot or more above the ground, the terrace may be raised close to the floor level. The steps then lead from the terrace down to the ground, instead of from the house down to the terrace. This solution is more ex- pensive, but it makes the terrace more accessible and usable. Such a porch or terrace should be wide enough to accommodate more people than just those in the immediate family. Use sound construction. A good surface should be safe, and smooth enough for wheeling furniture, children's carts and toys, and sometimes for dancing. Surfaces consisting of loose brick or broken stone or concrete are always annoying, and can become a hazard. Materials. Concrete, stone, asphalt, brick, and patio tile are among the most satisfactory of the hard-surface materials. Gravel and tanbark are the cheapest, but have many limitations. Redwood rounds and wooden blocks are sometimes used. Shade and plantings. Terraces and other paved surfaces need not be hot, glaring, or monot- onous. Large areas can be left open for plantings of shade trees, shrubs, groundcovers, or flowers. Also, many interesting patterns, textures, and colors can be worked into the design. (See the following section, "Paving Materials and Construction Methods.") Page 52 PAVING MATERIALS and CONSTRUCTION METHODS Avoid monotonous surfaces by varying materials and textures Paving may be laid in designs, patterns, and tex- tures which will add color and interest to the garden, or it may be just a monotonous slab or mass of ma- terials. Under any paved area there should be firm, well- drained soil or rock which will not settle or heave. All paving must be constructed so that its surface slopes away from the house and garage for good drainage. Consider how the paved area will be used. Those areas that will be used only for walking or sitting need not be so strongly constructed as ones that may be used by automobiles or trucks. Concrete is considered here first because it is most widely used and is one of the most satisfactory paving materials. It has many advantages, such as withstanding rough treatment and requiring almost no maintenance. It is difficult for the inexperienced person to lay because it dries so rapidly. It often cracks badly when laid in large sections. For this reason, it is better to use a gridwork of redwood, consisting of squares or rectangles no larger than 4 to 6 feet. Each section is then small enough so that any settling or cracking which may take place will usually follow the pattern line of the grid rather than show up as a crack in the paving. In this method no Various types of paving materials can be laid in a gridwork of redwood. Concrete should be at least 71 3 feet square, but squares over 8 feet are hard to handle, and are more likely to crack. Brick and wood blocks should be laid on a level base of fine sand. Page 53 . ■ -n Crushed rock, as used on this terrace, is an inexpensive paving material that requires only occa- ' ^ sional raking to maintain. Portable barbecue brazier is convenient and inconspicuous. (Student Garden, Dept. of Landscape Management, Univ. of Calif., Davis. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deering.) steel reinforcing is necessary, and the wooden grid can be left embedded in the concrete. This also re- sults in a more interesting design. The redwood should be treated with a good wood preservative before it is laid. Other methods consist of pouring small slabs in- dividually and then removing the forms after set- ting. Pouring in small sections makes it much easier for the homeowner to handle the material and to do a square or two when he has time. Concrete can be colored either by using prepared colored pigments in powdered form in the top finish surface before the material sets, or by staining after it has hardened. It can also be made more interesting by exposing the rock pebbles, a method called "ex- posed aggregate." This is done by embedding the type of pebble desired in the top surface and then brushing with a stiff brush and washing with water before it sets. This reduces glare, makes a more inter- esting surface, and lessens the danger of a slippery surface when wet or frosty. Brick paving is rich in color, pattern, and texture, and offers unlimited possibilities in design. Many colors are available, ranging from red to pink, and gray to yellow. Brick can be laid either in sand or in mortar. It is fun to lay, and the work can be done a little at a time. If a poor job is done, when laying brick in sand, the section can easily be relaid — an advantage over concrete or laying bricks in mortar. Special hard-burned or "face brick" should be used for paving since it can withstand diversified weather conditions. Method of laying. The soil should be well drained to keep the walk from lifting when the ground becomes saturated and swells from an excess of water or from frost action. When laying brick on sand, redwood edging strips 2 by 4 inches, called "header boards," should be used to keep the bricks from shifting. These boards should be staked and nailed to prevent lifting. A well-tamped cushion of sand about V2 inch thick should be evenly spread before the brick is laid. It can be raised slightly in Page 54 the center to give better drainage. Sand is then brushed over the bricks to fill in between the joints. Tile. Paving with tile is much the same as with brick. However, tile works best if laid on a concrete base, with mortared joints to prevent movement and cracking. It may also be laid successfully over wooden floors, porches, and steps. Patio tile is generally % inch thick, and is man- ufactured in many shapes, sizes, and in colors sim- ilar to those of brick. Flagstone. Cut stone materials make excellent paved surfaces, but, like all construction materials, they are expensive. Also, the cost of cutting and the labor involved in laying stone may be prohibitively high. Flagstone, to look best, should be cut into rec- tangular shapes; irregular pieces generally produce a confusing and cluttered effect, especially if laid by an inexperienced person. Care should be taken in laying stone to see that no corners or edges protrude to cause accidents. Stone can be laid on a well-tamped bed of sand, but a con- crete base with mortared joints is preferable. Wood. There are many ways to use wood as paving. Always use redwood as it is resistant to rot and decay. Redwood used as decking also works well. The lasting qualities can be prolonged by use of creosote, pentachlorophenol (Penta), and other wood preservatives. Any nails used should be alumi- num or galvanized iron to prevent rusting and staining. Redwood paving blocks make a satisfactory sur- face when laid on sand. In hot areas they check or crack badly except when used in shady, moist loca- tions. Redwood log slices or "redwood rounds" have been used satisfactorily for both paving and step construction. The thick bark of redwood has occasionally been tried as a paving material by sawing it in sections about 8 inches long and standing these sections up vertically on a sand base. This paving has a soft, carpetlike feeling underfoot. Asphalt and related products. Terraces and patios seldom have been constructed of asphalt and related products in the warmer regions of California because the dark surfaces absorb large quantities of heat and become too soft for the legs of garden fur- niture and for walking on. Asphalt has proved satis- factory in shady locations, in cooler areas, and for paving of drives and turnarounds. Today, however, new asphaltic products have been developed which can be mixed with water. They soften less in hot weather and are easier and less expensive for the homeowner to lay than is concrete. Three types of asphalt are available. ( See references to this section, p. 69.) 1 . Hot mixtures are generally used for highways, whereas the cold mixes are more suitable for drive- ways and turnarounds. The cold method is less costly because less equipment is required to lay it. How- ever, heavy rolling machinery is needed for both methods. 2. Another method is called "cut back" — a cold method. It is a combination of heavy asphalt and a thinner which is handled as a fluid and used to pene- trate a crushed rock and gravel surface; it can also be applied as a mix. The thinner evaporates, leaving a firm asphaltic mixture. This is top-dressed with fine gravel, and rolled. This is the method generally used for driveway construction. 3. Among the new materials for driveways, turn- arounds, tennis courts, walks, and terrace paving is the emulsified asphalt which is mixed with water and sand or soil. When the water evaporates, a hard surface results. This material can also be obtained for walks and terraces in a form which includes a complete mixture of sand and asphalt and requires only the addition of water. A hard surface can be obtained by using a small quantity of cement in the mix. If a firm base and good drainage are provided, only V'l inch of material is required. It is best when laid inside a redwood grid system such as that sug- gested for concrete. Small areas can be done more easily than large ones. A satisfactory finish can be obtained by troweling. Because less is required, water-mix asphalt is one of the least expensive and easiest to lay of the hard paving materials. Gravel and crushed rock. Gravel and crushed rock are among the most inexpensive to use. There are many grades, sizes, and textures, as well as a variety of colors ranging from red, green, and white, through the grays, to black. Combinations of not too great contrast make interesting patterns. Gravel should be used on relatively level areas as washing frequently occurs on steep slopes. Header boards or curbs of some sort can be used to help keep gravel off lawns and other areas. Loose or coarse material may be somewhat hard to walk on, and fine gravel may track inside and onto turf areas from wet or muddy shoes. An average grade of gravel or crushed rock is not difficult to walk on, and tracks little. Sufficient dust or clay mixed with the gravel or crushed rock will act as a binding material and will hold it in place. Page 55 Left: Brick laid flush with the terrace sur- 73 * ace results in an interesting coping around this pool. (Photo by Mason Weymouth. Geraldine Scott, Landscape Architect.) Below: A circular pool of concrete and 74 pebble mosaic is not only cool, but also colorful. (Photo by Douglas Baylis, Landscape Architect. Pool by Florence Swift.) WATER in the GARDEN A pool or fountain should contribute to the over-all garden design, but never dominate it Today, as in the past, water is the center of inter- est in regions where the climate is dry. In areas of more abundant moisture, the problem of water in the garden is of less concern. Psychologically, a pool or fountain gives a feeling of coolness and comfort in our warm, dry valley and desert sections, while in the cooler coastal areas this is less essential. To be effective, water that is confined in a pool or fountain must be properly located in the garden. It should be an integral part of the garden design, and not a dominant element. If placed in the center of a small garden, it may divide the usable space so completely that no area is left for the activities of the family. Also, water should not be placed so that it blocks a route through the garden, thereby dis- rupting the easy flow of traffic from one place to another. The form and shape of a pool should be in keeping with the garden design. The simple pool with straight sides (not necessarily parallel) is the least expen- sive and least difficult to construct. Pools may be built so that none of the container shows, or so that a wide border or coping flush with the ground is visible. Raising the water above the surface of the ground, in a container built to form a wall or seat, is also effective. Water plants. Small pools can be greatly en- hanced by the judicious selection of a few aquatic plant materials. Often overplanting produces a cover j r Even the simplest pool, if well placed and combined with good planting, will add pleasure to outdoor '^ living for children. (Marin County, Calif. Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects. Courtesy American Home Magazine.) over the entire surface of the water, thus defeating its purpose. Aquatic plants fall into three general groups: those which grow entirely beneath the surface; those which have their roots and stems beneath the surface, with the leaves floating on top; and those which have roots growing in water, and leaves and stems grow- ing above. The waterlily, lotus, water hyacinth, and papyrus are all suitable for the small pool. Aquatic plants are usually handled only by nurseries specializing in this type of material. Swimming Pools Because a swimming pool occupies so much space, it must be placed in the garden with care, so that it does not spoil the use of the remaining area. Most homeowners would do well to have experts build their swimming pool since considerable knowl- edge of construction methods and the use of equip- ment is necessary. However, small, inexpensive pools have been built of concrete by inexperienced persons, and have often proved quite satisfactory. Construction. Commercially constructed swim- ming pools, where the Gunite or pneumatically ap- plied concrete method is employed, may be easier to build if they have rounded sides and bottoms. A great variety of materials may be used. Poured concrete has been widely used, and is satisfactory for permanent pool construction. Small pools of con- crete block are quite inexpensive. However, specific construction methods must be followed with larger ones. Steel and stainless steel are also available. Combinations of concrete and materials such as brick and tile, used for facing, are attractive. A rela- tively inexpensive plastic swimming pool has re- cently been developed. Safety. The safety factor is very important. Even the smallest pool may become a hazard to small chil- dren. Fences around pools generally are not attrac- tive, and the advisability of installing a pool should be carefully considered if fencing will be necessary. Sometimes an entire garden may be fenced to give the necessary protection. Covers may be used instead of fences, but they, too, seldom add to the beauty. Plastic covers for swimming pools are available. These will support the weight of a person, and keep refuse out. However, covering a pool with any ma- terial, when it is not in use, generally spoils the whole effect. Sanitation. The fact that swimming pools re- quire continual maintenance in addition to their ini- tial cost should not be overlooked. Sanitation and cleaning are two important factors to be considered. Swimming pools should be constructed with ade- quate filter systems. Even when this is done, frequent cleaning is necessary, and there must be provision for occasional drainage. Page 58 GARDEN FURNITURE Functional pieces of good design are available in many colors and materials Relaxation and comfort were of little concern when gardens were designed primarily for display and exhibition. Their marble and stone benches were intended for ornamentation. Today, however, the garden is used almost like another room. Its furni- ture should be as comfortable as that used indoors. Durability. Outdoor furniture must be durable, to withstand being moved about, and capable of standing up under varying weather conditions. Among the materials that can withstand this kind of treatment are duck, fiberglass and plastic, nylon, and string or cord. Relate the colors of the garden furniture to those used inside the house, especially if the garden is visible from indoors. Use colors that will not fade in hot sun nor run when wet. Duck in vat-dyed blues and greens fades less readily than does that in reds or yellows. The woven vinyl plastics last longer than duck and hold colors better, but are more expensive. There are many interesting colors in both plastics and duck in addition to the standard blues and greens so commonly found. These include brown, black, turquoise, terra cotta, and mulberry. Filling. Kapok is better than cotton, for filling material, because it returns to its original shape after being wet, whereas cotton does not. Foam rub- ber is very satisfactory, but should be used only for porch furniture or where there is shade, as the hot sun causes it to deteriorate. Construction materials. Most types of wood will tolerate varying conditions of heat and mois- ture. Teak and redwood are best, and require no paint. Teak is expensive, but weathers well and does not splinter readily. Redwood is light but sometimes bulky, and often splinters. Pine and Douglas fir are satisfactory if protected by a wood preservative. Bamboo, wicker, and reed furniture should be used in somewhat protected places, such as porches or sheltered terraces. However, these materials are light in weight and may be moved easily if necessary. Bronze, aluminum, and magnesium generally withstand all types of weather conditions; iron and steel, on the other hand, need to be painted to prevent rusting. In coastal areas where moist, salty air is prevalent, the rustproof metals are best. New molded chairs of plastic, incorporating spun glass, are now available. They are generally sold for indoor purposes, but are very satisfactory when used outside. Movability. Unless it is built-in, most garden furniture should be easy to move. Lightweight fur- niture of aluminum and magnesium is inexpensive, less bulky, and does not take up so much space as the standard type of garden furniture. Iron-framed furniture also has these advantages, but most cast iron furniture is usually bulky, heavy, and too highly ornamented for garden use. Cleaning. Choose materials that do not stain readily and that are easy to clean. Most plastic- covered furniture can be cleaned with soap and water. Plastic covers may be placed over furniture to protect it when not in use. Garden tables should have tops that can be washed or cleaned with the garden hose without damage to the surface. Glass, stone, terrazzo slabs, or redAvood make durable table tops. yg Spun glass and plastic chair is a practical addi- ' O tion to the outdoor living room. (Photo courtesy Herman Miller Furniture Co., Los Angeles. Chair by Charles Eames.) Page 59 Practical, weather-resistant dining table and sw rrgtucui, weuinen * * chairs of redwood. (Photo courtesy California Redwood Association. Furniture from Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.) 70 Furniture for contemporary gardens: A Cord and metal chairs are simple in de- sign. B Glass-topped table combines nicely with cord and metal lounge. (Photos A and B courtesy Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.) C Weatherproof chair comes in many colors. (Photo courtesy Herman Miller Furniture Co., Los Angeles. Chair and table by Charles Eames.) D Built-in bench for a permanent garden. (Palo Alto, Calif. Photo by Shan Stewart. Geraldine Scott, Landscape Architect.) E Low chairs and coffee table of redwood. (Photo courtesy Redwood Empire Association. Furniture from Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.) Page 60 F Glass-topped coffee table usable outdoors or in. (Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.) G Glass dining table. (Photo courtesy Armin Richter Interiors, La Jolla, Calif. H Wicker and iron chair is good in any garden. (Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1951, The Conde Nast Publications, Inc. Chair by John B. Salterini, New York.) These thin wooden "nest" tables stack easily. (Photo courtesy Knoll Associates Inc. Tables by Abel Sorensen.) J Canvas cover comes in many colors, fits over iron frame of "African campaign chair." (Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger. Garden design by Robert B. Deering.) Page 61 jq The outdoor eating area should be handy to the kitchen and living room, and should have adequate ' ' protection from wind and from public view. (Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1951, The Conde Nast Publications, Inc.) qa This barbecue brazier is light, movable, and well designed. A unit of this type is especially good for use in a small garden (Courtesy "Hawk House," Los AngeJes, Calif.) Page 62 OUTDOOR COOKING and EATING Nearness to the kitchen is the main factor in outdoor entertaining The development of "patio living" in California has brought about considerable interest in outdoor cooking and eating. While some like to prepare part or all the food indoors and serve it outside, many like to cook over a garden fireplace or grill. Location. The outdoor eating area should be lo- cated near the kitchen because much of the food and equipment is prepared and stored there. Storage should be provided for such things as cooking equip- ment, extra chairs and tables, wood, and charcoal. Provision for garbage and waste disposal nearby is always necessary. The area should be conveniently reached from the house. Steps greatly discourage the serving of food outside. The ideal relationship is one in which house and terrace floor levels are nearly the same so that a cart or utility table can easily be wheeled back and forth. A water supply, and electric outlets for lighting, a hot plate, and radio or phonograph should be pro- vided. Protection. In many sections of California wind is an important factor in planning space for eating in the garden. The direction of prevailing wind should be carefully considered when choosing the site and selecting the type of cooking unit. (See "Controlling the Garden Climate," p. 25.) In other areas, provision for shade may be of main importance. Screening provides protection from insects and, in many instances, can make a porch or terrace more enjoyable for outdoor eating. Types of units. In deciding on an outdoor cook- ing unit, the homeowner should consider whether its appearance will detract from the beauty of the garden. Two types of cooking units are available. One is portable, and usually made of steel. The other is stationary, and may be made of concrete, brick, tile, stone, or other masonry materials, and can generally be constructed by an amateur. Each unit has two parts — a firebox and a grill. Grills that can be raised or lowered are most satis- factory. Enclosed units also need some sort of draft openings. Small, light barbecue units are relatively inex- pensive, less conspicuous and unsightly than larger ones, take up less space, and are portable. These may be moved for better draft or for smoke control, and may be stored when not in use. Fire regulations. Check local fire regulations before deciding on any type of outdoor cooking unit. Many cities have strict requirements regarding con- struction of fireplaces, spark arrestors, and their lo- cation under trees. If open fires are prohibited, electric hot plates or gas burners may be used. Page 63 Right: This type of outdoor lighting unit is 33 convenient because it can be placed wherever light is needed in the garden. (Courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.) . Below: After-dark enjoyment of this garden O^ is made possible by subtle use of lighting. (Carmel, Calif. Photo by Roger Sturtevant. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects. Henry Hill, Architect.) Page 64 LIGHTING the GARDEN Outdoor lighting can be as effective as that used indoors Use of the garden can be extended beyond the daylight hours by artificial lighting. In this way, out- door sports, such as tennis, badminton, croquet, and lawn bowling may be enjoyed after dark. In homes that have large glass areas which do not face the street, the lighted garden can be enjoyed from within when the weather becomes too cool for outside activities. Movable fixtures are handy for lighting sec- tions of the garden which have seasonal interest. For example, if you have an ornamental tree or flowering shrub that is particularly attractive at certain times of the year, it can be highlighted by focusing a flood- light or spotlight on it during the period when it is at its best. Fixed equipment may be used to light up per- manently good features of the garden that are always worth emphasizing, such as a large tree, a garden shelter, or a pleasing view. Keep in mind that artificial light completely *■ Artificial lighting focuses attention on special points of interest in the garden, resulting in unusual OJ effects not apparent under natural light. (Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.) Page 65 changes the appearance of the garden. The color of flowers becomes more brilliant, and the foliage takes on a brighter green in contrast to the blackness of the night. Only white lights should be used, as col- ored bulbs produce unnatural effects which gener- ally are not pleasing. Lighting of the driveway, steps, and walks helps prevent accidents and keeps prowlers away. Waterproof equipment. Waterproof outlet boxes, and underground, lead or heavy-duty, water- proof rubber cable are essential. The lighting fix- ture itself should also be waterproof. Fixtures are made with clamps for fastening to tree branches, or with metal stakes which can be pushed into the ground. Special types are available for underwater use to light small pools, swimming pools, and fountains. Equipment need not be visible. It may be con- cealed by placing it beneath shrubbery and painting with flat, natural gray-green finishes. q/ A permanent outdoor lighting unit for the 00 garden. (Courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.) a 7 The front of these storage units faces the service area and is convenient for unloading materials di- 0* rectly where they will be used. The units are staggered to avoid the necessity of opening gates. STORAGE for TOOLS and EQUIPMENT Every home has a storage problem, but wise planning keeps it from becoming a nuisance Neatness is one of the primary essentials for a good garden. The first step in achieving it is to pro- vide adequate and convenient storage space. Do not depend upon the garage as a catch-all for garden equipment plus everything which, in the past, used to accumulate in the attic or basement. Before designing any storage unit, study carefully what will be stored in it. In this way, you can elimi- nate waste space, yet have enough for convenient use. (People tend to save useless articles when more space than necessary is available.) Garden storage space should be planned for three general categories of items. Most families have some or all of the fol- lowing: Garden tools and equipment Lawn mower Watering can Wheelbarrow Sprayer and duster Hose and hose reels Buckets Hoes, rakes, forks Small tools Shovels, spades, axe Garden line Supplies Soils, sand, peat Fertilizers Leaf mold, manure Sprays and dusts Flats Miscellaneous items Bicycles, tricycles Baseballs and bats Wagons Racquets Garden furniture Flower pots Seeds and labels Stakes Wire Twine Step ladder Lumber Paint, brushes Newspapers, magazines Convenience. Build for convenience in unload- ing. The storage units should be designed as an in- tegral part of the service area to keep all clutter in one place and to allow heavy or bulky materials to be unloaded directly where they will be used. The backs of the units can screen the service area from the liv- ing areas of the garden. Weatherproofing of some spaces is important to keep such items as fertilizers and dusts from becom- ing damp, and tools and equipment from rusting. qa Back view of storage units shown on opposite page. This side of the units faces the living area of the OO garden and screens off an undesirable view of the service area. (Photos by Maynard Parker. Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.) i£P ul -0? %<*~*jl ,_, £*&1 *' ' "" J SP* Pi ¥ %*'W > :* .*:/"*** SUGGESTED READING General Garrett Eckbo, "Landscape for Living," New York: Architectural Record, Duell, Sloan and Pearce, 1950. Christopher Tunnard, "Gardens in the Modern Landscape," New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1948. James C. Rose, "Articulate Form in Landscape Design," "Plant Forms and Space," Pencil Points, April, 1939. Robert B. Deering, "Organic Planning in Landscape Design," New York: Cornell University, dis- sertation for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, 1949. "Microclimatology," Architectural Forum, March, 1947, pp. 114-119. "Agricultural Publications," a catalog of pamphlets published by the University of California Col- lege of Agriculture. Site Selection Richard Neutra, "Mystery and Realities of the Site," Scarsdale, N. Y. : Morgan and Morgan, 1951. Janet Darling, "Site Planning Comes Before the Down Payment," House Beautiful, January, 1944, p. 46. "Good Site Planning Can Double Your Outdoor Living," House Beautiful, October, 1949, p. 172. B. K. Johnstone, "Site Selection," Building or Buying a House, New York: Whittlesey House, Mc- Graw Hill Book Co., Inc., 1945. Edmund M. Pitts, "Pinning Down Your Property — Is the Real Estate Which You Are Buying 'Free and Clear' or What's Against It?" Los Angeles: California Land Title Association, 433 So. Spring Street, Los Angeles 13, Calif. A Program for Landscaping "Knowledge of Garden Costs Can Solve Some of the Puzzles of Garden Planning," Sunset Ideas for Landscaping Your Home, Menlo Park, California: Lane Publishing Company, 1950, pp. 60-63. Children in the Garden Frederick Jean Thalinger, designer, "Play Sculptures," Progressive Architecture, October, 1951, pp. 82-83. Frederick Jean Thalinger, designer, "Zoo for Vandals," Interiors, February, 1951. The following articles from Sunset Magazine: "A Giant Building Toy," March, 1953. "The Good Life— High Up in a Tree," June, 1952. "Climbing, Building. Splashing, Swinging — How to Plan Your Own Wonderland for Chil- dren's Play," July, 1953, p. 40. "Outdoor Ideas" (Patterns of Animated Play Equipment by the Oakland Park Department), Amer- ican Home Magazine, April, 1952, p. 52. Controlling the Garden Climate R. B. Deering and F. A. Brooks, "Landscaping for Summer Shade," California Agriculture, May, 1953. H. S. Gordon and R. L. Perry, "Air Conditioning for Houses in California," Univ. Calif. Ext. Cir. 351, May, 1942. (Out of print but probably available at your public library.) "Climate Control," House Beautiful' s Home Maintenance and Building Manual, New York: House Beautiful Magazine, Inc., 1951. "How to Build Better Wind Controls," Sunset Ideas for Landscaping Your Home, Menlo Park, California: Lane Publishing Company, 1950. The following articles from Sunset Magazine: "Controlling the Sun," June, 1948, pp. 30-33. "How to Measure the Sun on Your Lot," June, 1948, p. 40. "Importance of Little Weathers," April, 1949. "How Many Climates Do You Work With?" June, 1949, pp. 24-28. "New Tools for the Gardener," August, 1949, p. 24. "Experiments with Reflected Heat," November, 1949, pp. 44-47. "Frost Protection," December, 1949. Page 68 Lawns H. M. Butterfield, W. Schoonover, and H. W. Shepherd, "Lawn Planting and Care," Univ. Calif. Agr. Ext. Cir. 181. H. M. Butterfield, "Lawn-Grass Substitutes in California," Univ. Calif. Agr. Ext. Ser. Mimeo. J. E. Christiansen, "Lawn Sprinkler Systems," Univ. Calif. Agr. Ext. Cir. 134. Plants and Planting Donald Wyman, "The Arboretums and Botanical Gardens of North America," Waltham, Mass.: The American Association of Botanical Gardens and Arboretums, 1947. Harry W. Shepherd, "Woody Plants for Landscape Use in California," Univ. Calif. Agr. Ext. Cir. 109, 1938. (Out of print but available in most public libraries.) E. Graham and H. E. McMinn, "Ornamental Shrubs and Woody Vines of the Pacific Coast," Berke- ley, Calif.: The Gillick Press, 1941. H. E. McMinn and E. Maino, "An Illustrated Manual of Pacific Coast Trees," Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 1935. Sunset Planting Ideas for Your Garden, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company, 1951. "How to be a Better Buyer of Nursery Plants," Sunset Magazine, January, 1950, p. 26. "Transplanting Trees and Other Woody Plants," Tree Preservation Bui. 9, January, 1940. United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service. (Available through Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. ) P. P. Pirone, "Maintenance of Shade and Ornamental Trees," New York: Oxford University Press, 1941. Current List of Leaflets on Ornamental Horticulture, University of California Agricultural Exten- sion Service. Pruning W. H. Chandler and Ralph D. Cornell, "Pruning Ornamental Trees, Shrubs and Vines," Univ. Calif. Ext. Cir. 183. Roy L. Hudson, Sunset Pruning Handbook, Menlo Park, Calif. : Lane Publishing Company, 1952. R. Sanford Martin, "How to Prune Western Shrubs," Culver City, Calif.: Murphy and Gee, 1944. "Shade Tree Pruning," Tree Preservation Bui. 4, United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service. (Available through Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C.) Plant Containers The Portable Garden, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Co., 1952. Methods of Enclosure How to Build Fences and Gates, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Co., 1951. Grading, Drainage, and Retaining Walls "The Details of Slope Control," Sunset Ideas for Landscaping Your Home, Menlo Park, Calif. : Lane Publishing Co., 1950, p. 22. P. P. Pirone, "Maintenance of Shade and Ornamental Trees," New York: Oxford University Press, 1941, chap. 10, p. 134, "Damage Caused by Grade Changes Around Trees." Paving Materials and Methods of Construction "An Asphalt-Cement Paving You Can Pour Yourself," Sunset Magazine, March, 1952, pp. 58-62. How to Build Walls, Walks, Patio Floors, Menlo Park, Calif. : Lane Publishing Company, 1952. Sunset's Patio Book, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Co., 1952. Sunset's Outdoor Building Book, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Co., 1953. Garden Furniture Zeanette Moore, "Cushions That Can Take It," Los Angeles Times "Homes" section, May 27, 1951. Mary and Russell Wright, Guide to Easier Living, New York: Simon and Schuster, 1951, chap. VI. How to Build Outdoor Furniture, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Co., 1953. Outdoor Cooking and Eating Sunset's Barbecue Book, Menlo Park, Calif. : Lane Publishing Co., 3rd ed., 1950. Page 69 Lighting the Garden The following articles from House Beautiful, July, 1953. "Day and Night Light," pp. 46-51. "How to Hold a View at Night," p. 56. "Plan a Day and Night Picture in Your Picture Window," pp. 68-71. Storage for Tools and Equipment "The Garden Storage Wall," House Beautiful, November, 1949. Plant Shelters and Garden Work Centers, Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company, 1951. In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible it is sometimes necessary to use trade names of prod- ucts or equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical identifications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the market under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is in- tended, nor is criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, College o( Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agrieultu co-operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30. 1914. J. Earl Coke, Director. California Agricultural Extension Servic 10m-10,'53(A7360)LL ■'" ->N THj^ t«A«'i Net price $1.00