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PLANNING TII» GARDEN

ROBERT B. DEERING

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CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL
Experiment Station
Extension Service

MANUAL 10

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in 2012 with funding from

University of California, Davis Libraries

http://archive.org/details/planninggarden10deer

PLANNING

THE GARDEN

ROBERT B. DEERING

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ■ COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service

LIBRARY

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
DAVIS

THIS MANUAL is one of a series published by the University of California College of Agriculture and sold for a charge
which is based upon returning only a portion of the production cost. By this means it is possible to make available pub-
lications which, due to relatively high cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope of
the College publishing program.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Site selection 3

A program for landscaping 9

Planning the house and garden 15

Children in the garden 21

Controlling the garden climate 25

Control of smoke,, dust, and noise 27

Plants and planting 29

Plant containers 37

Methods of enclosure 39

Grading, drainage, and retaining walls 41

Walks, steps, and ramps 45

Drives, garages, parking, and turnarounds 47

Terraces, porches, and garden shelters 51

Paving materials and construction methods 53

Water in the garden 57

Garden furniture 59

Outdoor cooking and eating 63

Lighting the garden 65

Storage for tools and equipment 67

Suggested reading 68

(Mill Valley, Calif. Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.

Garden plans are just as important as house plans.
Each should complement the other, so that the gar-
den actually becomes an addition to the home (see
photograph above). The most satisfactory proce-
dure is one in which the house and garden are con-
sidered as a whole at the time that the plans are
drawn.

This manual suggests the steps to follow from the
time you choose your lot until the project is com-
pleted. If your buildiug and landscaping program is
already in progress, or your present garden needs
some remodeling, the information should be of help
in completing the work.

THE AUTHOR:

Robert B. Deering is Assistant Professor of Landscape Management, Davis.

OCTOBER, 1953

PLANNING

THE GARDEN

ROBERT B. DEERING

Lomeowners in California spend many millions
of dollars annually on the landscaping of their gar-
dens. Much of this money is spent for the advice,
materials, and labor necessary in solving certain
basic problems, some or all of which are common to
most sites. Whether the garden is planned and exe-
cuted entirely by a landscape architect or designer,
or whether the homeowner does some or all of the
work himself, a knowledge of the problems involved
and the principles underlying their solution is essen-
tial.

This manual is planned to help the homeowner
spend his landscaping budget wisely, avoid mistakes
that may prove costly to correct, and achieve a gar-
den that is pleasant, practical, and adapted to the
house and to the family's activities.

It must be remembered that the solution will not
be the same for every property since each family
presents a different problem. However, certain basic
principles apply, regardless of individual varia-
tions.

Four major problems in landscaping are pre-
sented by the four main types of home owning
families:

1 . The largest group includes those families who
purchase tract or housing development homes.

2. Other families buy relatively new homes al-
ready designed and constructed with no specific
owner in mind at the time of building.

3. Still other families purchase a lot and construct
a home planned especially for them.

4. Then there are those who now live in older
homes but who desire to remodel and revitalize their
gardens.

Among these families, the attitudes toward gar-
dening vary as much as the individuals themselves,
from the enthusiastic amateur who will spend all his
spare time in the garden to the person who enjoys
the finished product, but wishes to spend very little
time on upkeep. All, however, are agreed that some
outdoor living space is essential, and all can have
the type of garden best suited to their activities.

Obviously, gardens cannot be entirely naturalistic
because they would not fit into man's mechanized
way of living. But architectural elements, such as
walls, fences, and paving, have often been overused.
A good design will generally result only with a bal-
anced integration of architectural materials and
plants, which should be a vital part of any garden.

Plants that are native to the area in which you live
should play a prominent role in the garden, not only
because they are at home in such surroundings, but

also because they are adapted to the climatic and
soil conditions and therefore require less water than
do plants introduced from other climates. The pink
flowering redbud (Cercis occidentalis) and the deep
yellow flowering flannel bush (Fremontia calif or -
nica) are examples of natives that grow in most areas
of California.

Limited space need not prohibit the development
of a garden. Many of the best designed, most useful
and livable ones are those on small city or suburban
lots. The key to success is in proper organization and
use of space— the main problems of designing.

An attractive community or neighborhood de-
pends largely upon the appearance of the individual
homes. It also depends, to a large extent, upon the
forethought, planning, and cooperation of all within
that community.

Gardens should be designed for family living.
Where there are children, they should be considered
in the planning. Too often, very little is done to make
the garden enjoyable for them. Proper thought and
consideration in landscaping pay high dividends

when children find that there is more fun to be found
at home than in the streets.

California does not have "a climate," but actually
consists of several "climates," ranging from arid to
extremely moist, and from areas of high altitude to
those below sea level. Four major climatic areas in
the state require different types of garden design and
use of plant materials:

1 . The coastal areas, north and south.

2. The central valley regions,

3. Arid desert land.

4. High-altitude regions.

An important objective in planning a garden in
any of these areas is to produce more days of com-
fortable living.

Clearly, the many considerations involved in
planning a garden cannot all be covered completely
within the limits of this manual. Each garden plan
must be worked out individually. The aspects of
building and landscaping discussed here are based
on the over-all, general concepts of design for good
living.

A list of suggested supplementary reading appears on page 68.

Page 2

SITE SELECTION

Questions to be answered

before you buy, build, or landscape

Some of the most important decisions facing a
prospective homeowner are the ones he has to make
when deciding where he and his family are going to
live.

Today and in the future, an increasing number of
homeowners have bought or will be buying tract or
housing development homes. The mass-produced
house is here to stay because rising costs have made
it necessary for builders to construct houses for the
average person on an efficiency basis.

If you are thinking of buying one of these houses,
you should carefully consider all the types of plans
and the various orientations on the lots. A house that
may be undesirable on one site may work very well
on another lot having a different orientation.

Whether you are building or buying a house, just
one item overlooked may make a home undesirable
and unlivable. For example, it would generally be a
mistake, in the coastal areas, to select or build a
house with the living areas located on the north, as
they would be cold and damp during the winter when
maximum sunshine is desired.

Ask yourself these questions:

What price can I afford? Since the value of land
varies greatly according to population density, it is

hard to set up a formula for determining how much
one should spend on a piece of property. But mosl
families cannot afford to spend more than two fifths
of their annual income in order to purchase a parcel
of land.

What are my family's habits and preferences?
Before you visit a real estate agent, know your family
needs and desires. Does your job demand a home
close to work? Are you and your children going to
be happy out in the country or is property near town
more suitable? What size family do you intend to
have, and what about the desirability of the site when
the children are grown? Whether or not you are a
gardener will also influence the selection of the site.

Is the site located in a desirable neighborhood?
Make sure that you and your family like the neigh-
bors and that they are in approximately the same
income bracket as yourselves. The neighborhood
should have clean and attractive buildings, lawns,
and streets. Most local construction requirements
are helpful in retarding the rate of decline, although
some may be too limiting in their nature. A neigh-
borhood of homeowners is usually better maintained
than one composed of tenants who are likely to be
less interested in upkeep and improvements.

Is the area zoned? Most communities are zoned

The site must be selected before the house and garden can be planned. Be sure the site you choose is
suitable for the type of house you want to build. When the site has been chosen, consider the design of
house and garden. Is it planned for the best possible orientation to sun and prevailing winds?

into three sections for the protection of the home-
owner — industrial, commercial, and residential.
Residential zoning, as well as city and community
codes, generally prescribes a minimum size of house,
sometimes its minimum cost, its "set back" from the
street, and the distance from adjoining houses. The
city engineers' office or, in outlying districts, the
county planning commission, is usually able to sup-
ply information on local regulations for the com-
munity.

Are there nuisances? Investigate smoke, dust,
noise, chicken yards, livestock feed lots, corrals,
railroads, highways, factories, and dumps. Are they
within sight, hearing, or smelling distance? How do
the neighbors minimize the main nuisances?

What improvements are available? Are streets
paved? Are the curbs, sidewalks, street lights, and
street trees in?

Are all necessary utilities available? Gas, elec-

tricity, water, and sewer and storm drainage should
be readily accessible. In the country, a seemingly
good site may lack one or more vital utility.

Are services also available? Good fire and police
protection are among the most important. Fire pro-
tection in rural areas should be assumed to be slower,
and may even be nonexistent. Telephone and mail
service, trash and garbage removal must also be con-
sidered.

Are good schools, churches, shopping centers, and
medical facilities conveniently located? These fea-
tures are important. It might be a good idea to make
a "trial" shopping trip, and to talk to some of the
parents in the neighborhood about the schools and
medical and hospital facilities. If children must
cross streets where traffic is heavy, in going to and
from school, check to see whether there are traffic
lights or special supervision for safe crossing.

Do recreational facilities take care of the whole

Best location for an inland home site is generally part way up a slope that faces the desirable direc-
tion. This will depend upon prevailing wind, sun, and the views.

Undesirable Winds . , , ... -

Desirable Prevailing Summer Breezes

(in some areas they may come from the same direction as the

undesirable winds)

North Slopes are damper, but
may be more desirable in hot-
dry climates providing the N. wind is not
«-• objectionable

CONSIDER DIRECTION OF WIND . . .

■•S53J-

Prevailing Westerly Winds

Hilltop Sites have magnificent views
but are subject to deep ocean fogs

Shore Sites facing S.W. receive more winter sun
but have more glare

Cooling Afternoon Draft
flows inland on open

^ Tall Buildings and Trees :

may cut off the air flow, but the moisture "
influence will still be felt

Ocean or Bay

The Best Location for a shore site

is generally part way up the slope _£J7~>

Gentle Air Flows and Eddies
felt on open slopes

Sites Shielded from the Ocean
in a marine climate, if facing E.,
have a desirable morning exposure
but, if facing N., are more damp
and cooler

rs -^ Waterfront Sites
-ggg^-i^ subject to shallow
radiation fogs

Cooling Nighttime Breezes
flow downhill in ravines

Page 4

The combination of topography and ocean exposure may determine the desirability of a coastal site.
Generally, best location for a shore site is part way up a slope.

THE ANGLE . . .

Winter Noon Sun

31 "altitude at 35° latitude

Warmest-Sunniest Areas in Winter Coldest-Dampest Areas in Winter
~ A -/

Warmest-Sunniest Areas in Summer,
Summer shade needed

Coolest-Shadiest in Summer,
N. or N.E. terrace may be desired

Proper orientation results in warm, livable areas in winter, cool ones in summer. (For
summer and winter coolness in desert regions, living areas should face northeast.)

AND SWEEP OF THE SUN

Direct Sun in
late afternoon

SUNSET

Low Branching Deciduous Trees

will keep low afternoon sun

off west and north walls in summer

Least Amount of Roof Overhang needed on north
except where shade is desired and in desert
regions where living areas may face north

Largest Amount of Overhang necessary
on west if glass is used on these walls

" "I 3-4 ft. Overhang Needed on E.
. J to shade walls before noon

E. andN., ) 7\l\
coolest outdoor area

SUNRISE

Proper orientation dictates how the house and garden should be planned. A. Best orientation for
houses in northern and central California is generally with living areas facing south or southeast,
as in diagram above. B. In the San Joaquin Valley, it may be more pleasant to have living areas to
the east or southeast. C. Houses along the coast may be designed with major glass areas to the east,
south, and west where there is an ocean view. Double-paned glass may be necessary where cold
winds sweep in from the ocean. D. Houses in desert regions may require major glass areas on the
northeast, with solid walls to the south and west.

Page 5

Typical tract housing in which the major
streets run north and south provides fewer
desirable building sites than areas where
streets run east and west.

I Best sites in northern, central, and
coastal regions have living areas to the
south or southeast. (In desert regions,
best areas might be to the northeast.)

| — I Next best sites have living areas to the
east or southwest. (In desert regions,
next best might be east or southeast.)

] Poorest sites have living areas to the
north or west, although west views may
be desirable along the coast. (Poorest
sites in desert regions face west or
south.)

ORTH LIVING AREAS

NeMeIe

tTtTtrt

I ? \ sou

TH LIVING AREAS

OR.TH LIVING AREAS

&1£1£1&1£

STfcTtTltTt

SOUTH LIVING AREAS

J Typical tract. Major streets run east and west.

Page 6

family? Most families have diversified recreational
interests, and each member must be considered. Find
out whether facilities for those interests are present
and easily accessible.

Is transportation readily accessible? This is espe-
cially important in the country, or for a one-car
family. Be sure that dependable means of transpor-
tation are available at all times for business, shop-
ping, and recreational purposes.

Does the site have hazards? A dry creek may be-
come a roaring river in the spring — a hazard to
children as well as to the home and property. An
irrigation canal is always a danger to children. Rail-
roads, highways, and industries close by are hazards,
and reduce the resale value of the property.

Does the topography benefit the climate? Seldom
does the buyer consider the climate in selecting a
site, yet if considerable forethought were given to
this factor, outdoor living conditions could be
greatly improved.

Topography has an important influence on the
local climate because of exposure and because of
the fact that cold air flows downhill at night. Sites
exposed to the winter winds, and valley bottom sites
usually are less desirable because of the extra cold-
ness. Frost occurs first at the lower elevations, and
fog is most frequent in the lowest points. In summer,
the valley bottom may be too warm if it is cut off
from cooling breezes.

The best location is probably part way up a slope,
although a site at the top of a hill may be desirable
in warm areas. The lee side (away from the wind)
of the hill, well below the crest, is out of the area
where the winds are the strongest, and usually will
be much more comfortable.

Southeast exposures on slopes generally make the
most desirable sites in the northern, central, and
coastal regions of California. The site facing south
offers the best possibility for taking advantage of the
winter sun's natural heating qualities. A northeast
exposure may be the most desirable in desert regions
where cool living areas are often desired at all times
of the year.

Soil conditions and the natural plant cover of the
area may have a great effect on the over-all climate
of the site. Soils of different textures and composition
have varying effects.

Other factors to be considered are near-by bodies
of water. Sites located near water will have a more
mild winter climate than those in other areas. Bodies
of water always raise the humidity, and also influ-
ence temperatures, causing them to be higher than
average in winter and lower in summer. The influ-

Hsm::

'■^•l

Oft

-**&

■■■Ktftw.

Existing trees on a site may be included in the garden plan to good advantage. If tree had been re-
moved, the garden above (right) would have been far less attractive. (See left, same garden with
the tree blocked out.)

(Photos courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.)

ence is more marked near larger bodies of water
than near smaller ones. The lee side will have a less
extreme climate than the windward side where off-
shore breezes in some sections have been known to
lower the temperature as much as 10 degrees. Lake
breezes seldom reach more than three quarters of a
mile inland, whereas ocean breezes may extend in-
land a great distance. Buildings and tall trees along
the shore front, or hills and mountains nearby may
be limiting factors. (Architectural Forum, March,
1947, p. 115.)

Topography and water bodies together affect the
climate, and their combination may materially in-
crease the desirability of certain sites.

Does the topography of the land lend itself to site
development and construction design? Level sites
generally cost less to develop than do sloping or
hilly sites, and they may not be so interesting. Hilly
sites often require extensive excavating and filling,

Be sure that the area in which you build has
been zoned, so that this cannot happen later.

construction of expensive retaining walls, steps, ter-
races, and provision for special drains and storm
sewers to handle rapid surface water runoff.

Have soil and subsoil conditions been considered?
Look for natural sites which have not been filled or
changed by excavation. Be sure topsoil has not been
removed or that the site does not require additional
filling. Make sure the type of soil will support the
house. If hillside sites are desired, an examination
of the ground should be made to determine whether
there have been any indications of soil "slips"
(slides) caused by an excess of subsurface water
during heavy rains. Several cases have been recorded
in which homes have slipped down the sides of hills.

The removal, excavation, and disposal of large
quantities of rock is expensive and should be avoided
if possible.

Are views, trees, and plantings interesting? While
a site with a pleasant view is always advantageous,
other considerations may prove more important.
Where the essential requirements for good planning
are present but the view is undesirable, the site may
still be worth considering if the unpleasant aspects
can be screened out by wise use of plant and archi-
tectural materials. Trees and plantings provide an
interesting setting, and although they generally add
to the initial cost, they greatly increase the desira-
bility of the property as well as its resale value.

Is the land oriented for good planning? Orienta-
tion should be one of the most important factors in
considering a site. It is a good idea to draw up many
plans and sketches to see if the house can be de-
signed to take advantage of desirable breezes and to

Page 7

keep undesirable cold or hot winds from limiting
the use of outdoor living areas. In some areas, hot
winds are sometimes the limiting factors. A site
which allows the placement of the house so that the
garden and living areas can be located on the side
away from the wind will solve this problem.

The type, size, and location of existing trees on
the site and on neighboring properties will have a
decided bearing on the local climate and on the
planning, locating, and orienting of the house.

Is there sufficient land for adequate outdoor living
spaces, privacy, services, and driveway? Even on a
small lot, privacy and the feeling of spaciousness
can be achieved through sound planning. Many de-
tails must be considered in advance so that sufficient
space will be allowed — for example, if a turnaround
is desired, room for it must be allocated at an early
stage in the designing.

Do others have rights-of-way, easements, or rights
to the property? Such rights-of-way, as for sewer
lines, irrigation canals, roads, pipe lines, electric
and telephone lines, and other utilities should be
carefully looked into. Some are desirable for site
development, others are detriments. If the access to
your property passes over a neighbor's land, be sure
that a legal right-of-way has been obtained so that
there is no possibility of gates or other obstructions
preventing entrance to your own home. In some
areas, mineral and oil rights may continue to be
controlled by a previous owner even though the land
may have changed hands several times. A more satis-
factory agreement would share the mineral rights
and provide termination of the reservation in a cer-
tain number of years if no commercial development
is made.

Are taxes reasonable? Find out from neighbors
and tax assessors what the present rate is, and the
possibility of higher taxes in the future. Then figure
out how much the assessment will be.

Can I get a loan? Before purchasing the land, find
out whether you can borrow a sufficient amount for
building on the selected site. It may be difficult to
borrow on land in the country as most loan com-

panies or banks will not take a chance of a loss on
their investment. They realize the problems which
may occur from being isolated, and the desirability
of living in a neighborhood where community inter-
ests may be developed. Loan companies also con-
sider the resale value of both house and property.

Do I have "clear title" to the land? The title should
be searched by a competent attorney to make sure
you have "clear title" to the land. Then get the deed
recorded in the county where the property is located,
and if possible, have the title insured by a reliable
title insurance company.

Where can I seek competent advice? Avoid going
to your friends — they usually tell you what you
want to hear. Consult several people with different
viewpoints, such as the county Farm Advisor, city
or county planning board members, older residents,
landscape architects, architects, bankers, lawyers,
builders, and contractors.

Only if you can choose between close alternatives
will you be able to obtain the most desirable site for
your needs.

The survey. One of the first steps to take after
deciding on a certain site is the making of a survey.
This should be done by a licensed surveyor. It should
show the complete area, on a map, with the actual
measurements and angles used, together with a state-
ment of the exact amount of land contained within
the survey. Along with it there should be an accurate
legal description and the exact location of the prop-
erty within the state and county.

If topography is considerably hilly or rugged, it
is well to have a contour or topographical survey
made at the same time. The results of this survey will
show the shape and form of the land, which will later
be useful in locating the house and in designing the
garden.

When buying, hire a competent lawyer
to draw up the deed and to check the transaction be-
tween the seller and yourself to see that it is properly
prepared and is in correct legal form. The deed
should then be recorded in the registry of deeds in
the county in which the land is located.

Page 8

A PROGRAM for LANDSCAPING

Important points at this stage are

design, choice and location of plants, construction

Every homeowner, understandably, wants to com-
plete the landscaping of his property as soon as pos-
sible. But he should not make the mistake of thinking
that it can be done shortly after the house is ready for
occupancy. A garden can seldom be constructed and
planted in a single year. The work may have to ex-
tend over several years, not only because of the time
it takes for garden structures to be built and for
plantings to reach maturity, but also because of the
expense involved. It does not pay to hurry the job.

Amateurs often make costly mistakes. Al-
though much personal enjoyment is to be found in
planning a garden, one can make many mistakes
that may prove expensive. In remedying them, one
may spend, over a period of years, as much as the
services of a landscape architect would have cost in
the beginning, to say nothing of wasted effort and
backaches. The homeowner's mistakes generally oc-
cur in the designing of the garden, the selection and
location of the plant materials, and the construction
phases. Lack of a good, workable plan is the cause of
most difficulties.

A plan is a necessity. A landscape plan is as
important as a house plan. It is not easy to develop
a good garden without one.

The best time to consider hiring a landscape archi-
tect is before the planning of the house has started.
He should then work with you and an architect in
the very beginning stages of planning and orienting
the house and garden. A landscape architect gen-
erally can make the garden more useful and livable.

The man you select should be licensed and a
graduate of an accredited school of Landscape
Architecture or Landscape Design. He should be
able to show you both designs and completed gar-
dens, indicating methods of construction used. It
is always well to ask other of his clients how they
like their gardens.

What is included in the landscape archi-
tect's services? If you hire the landscape architect
early enough, he will be able to finish the garden
plans by the time the house plans are completed
(provided a new house is to be constructed).
Whether you are building, buying a "ready-made"

- ft This is what can happen when the back yard is not planned and organized to serve the various family
'" needs and activities.

Page 9

PLANNING PAYS

A well-planned garden
is good from all angles

Plan at right shows how a garden (below)
was organized to make it livable, interesting,
easy to maintain. Planting was kept simple;
lawn is large enough to be usable, but easy
to care for.

(Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1941, The
Conde Nast Publications, Inc. Thomas D. Church, Landscape
Architect.)

Excellent indoor-outdoor
relationships result when
house and garden are
planned together.

Simple design makes
maintenance easy in this
garden oriented toward
a mountain view. Wood-
en fence conceals the
service area.

Overhead view shows
garden design. Celloglass
fence obscures unsightly
areas, but permits light
to enter. Horizontal trel-
lis (upper right) will carry
vines over embankment,
thereby adding to feel-
ing of space.

(Mill Valley, Calif. Photos by M.
Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and
Williams, Landscape Architects

house, or redesigning an established garden, by
having complete plans you can start off right. These
should include:

l.A PRELIMINARY PLAN showing the plan
of the house, garden design, contour lines, any pro-
posed changes in grade, location of steps, walks,
and drives, terraces and porches, walls, fences, and
plantings. Perspective or isometric sketches and ele-
vations are helpful to the inexperienced person in
visualizing the finished garden. This plan is dis-
cussed with the homeowner, and many changes are
made at that time, resulting in:

2. THE GENERAL PLAN. This usually incor-
porates an acceptable preliminary plan, plus any
corrections, all dimensions possible, materials to
be used, references to construction notes, and detail
sheets.

3. A GRADING PLAN showing the changes in
grade may also be required for an irregular site if
there are more changes in grade than can be shown
on the general plan.

This plan is used to determine the depth of foot-
ings for the foundation of the house; the amount of
excavating and filling needed to produce sufficiently
level space for the house and outdoor living areas;
the placement of retaining walls, terraces, and steps ;
the slope and location of walks and drives, curbs and
gutters, storm and sanitary sewer systems, and water
and gas lines. The exact locations of existing trees,
large rocks, and ravines should also be shown.

4. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS may be drawn
as a part of the general plan if only a few are needed ;
otherwise, separate sheets are necessary. These con-
sist of enlarged drawings of structural details and
may include plans, elevations, and sectional draw-
ings. They should give complete instructions on the
methods and materials to be used in construction.

5. THE PLANTING PLAN AND PLANTING
LIST show the scientific and common names, the
numbers, the sizes, and forms of plants recom-
mended, and the exact location of each in relation
to the design. For a small garden, the planting plan
may be a part of the general plan.

6. AN IRRIGATION PLAN, separate from the
others, may be needed to show the system to be used
for watering lawns and plantings. Complete data
should be given on the plan so that the system can be
installed by the homeowner or landscape contractor.
(For more detailed information, see University of
California Extension Service Circular 134, "Lawn-
Page 12

Sprinkler Systems." A copy may be obtained from
Agricultural Publications, Room 22 Giannini Hall,
University of California, Berkeley.)

How much will it cost to hire a landscape
architect? The methods for charging vary. Some
landscape architects charge a flat fee for complete
plans and working drawings, based on the size and
shape of the land and the extent of work needed.
Others set a certain percentage for plans and work-
ing drawings, generally 10 to 20 per cent of the cost
of the completed garden. Supervision of the work is
a necessary part of the landscape architect's service,
and is usually charged for separately. In a few cases,
charges for designing are made on an hourly basis
for whatever work is desired.

It is best to let the landscape architect handle the
work from start to finish if this is possible. The re-
sults are generally more satisfactory and economi-
cal. He will be quite willing to discuss fees with you,
and to let you know the total cost of the finished job.
Possibly some arrangement can be worked out so
that the garden can be completed a portion at a time.
The major costs of landscape work are for labor,
materials, and construction.

Planning in relation to costs is important.

The final garden design approved by the homeowner
should be within his financial means. By having a
long-range plan, with the work and the cost spread
over several years, you may be able to have a much
better garden than would be possible if all the ex-
pense were to be borne at once.

Often a good design can be worked out that will
result in a relatively inexpensive garden by substi-
tuting less expensive, but equally effective, materials
for the more costly ones. For example, a wire fence
with vines often makes a more attractive screen than
does a wooden fence, and the cost is considerably
less. Paving materials also vary greatly in price and
in cost of labor for laying them.

How much of the work can the home-
owner do himself? In working out the budgets
for time and costs, indicate what you can do your-
self, and what should be done by professional work-
ers. This will depend somewhat upon whether you
are used to handling materials and equipment. In
general, heavy construction, such as paving, walls,
fences, and terraces, is more successful, and takes
less time if done by experienced persons. Planting
and minor jobs that do not require special skills can
be done by the individual.

The following list suggests a possible order of
work for construction and planting. One may adapt
it to suit his individual project.

1 . Walks and drives are essential and should be
put in first of all.

2. Terraces might come next since they provide
usable outdoor areas while the lawn is becoming
established.

3. Lawn space should be decided upon and
planted at an early date. Grass holds down dust, and
permits children to play outside without tracking
in mud.

4. Trees are important, especially in hot climates,
and should be planted at an early stage so as to pro-
vide shade as soon as possible.

5. Hedges, screens, walls, and fences are next in

importance because privacy is needed once the house
is occupied.

6. Low shrubs and other plantings that bring the
garden design almost to completion may be left
among the last items on the list of things to be done.
Plantings that constitute a unit or area, or that fulfill
a special function, should be completed at one time.
This stage should not be hurried, as the planting
results are most important in the future appearance
of the garden.

7. Items of lesser importance, such as pools,
sand boxes, seats, and trellises, may be built one at a
time, to complete the garden. (Of course, space for
these items should be indicated in the original
plan even if these features are not to be added for
some time.)

Page 13

PLANNING the HOUSE and GARDEN

Four basic units should be considered —
the public, private, living, and service areas

This section will be discussed from the standpoint
of the person who is in a position to build a home of
his own choice, but many of the same principles will
apply to the older garden that may benefit by re-
modeling. Often, in the case of an older home, the
redesigning of the garden leads to remodeling of the
house in order to achieve a better integration with
the landscape.

The tentative planning of house and garden,
whether done by the homeowner or landscape archi-
tect, must actually begin before the purchase of the
land, as it is necessary to find out whether or not a
workable solution can be achieved. Adjacent build-
ings, trees, and other external site conditions may
have a great bearing on the planning arrangement.

Size and shape of the plot. The irregular lot
may prove to be the most interesting to develop. The
homeowner should begin by making sketches of
house and garden plans to determine whether or not
a good functional solution can be adapted to the
ground forms, taking into consideration the orien-
tation, sun, wind, and views. Can walks, drives, liv-
ing areas, lawns, and gardens be arranged conveni-
ently and economically? No one plan will adapt
itself to another situation. The designing should be
started only when a specific site or situation has been
selected.

Orientation. Are you considering, in your plan-
ning, the cold winter winds, the cool summer breezes,
the desirable winter sun, the hot summer sun, and
the existing views? It is possible to enjoy the out-
doors a great deal more if these factors are given
serious consideration. Some areas may be too cold
and damp to consider much outdoor living at any
season of the year. In this case, as much of the garden
and views as possible should be visible from inside
the house.

But too often we tend to enjoy the landscape from
indoors during a great part of the year when this is
not necessary. In many parts of California, it is pos-
sible to live outside almost the year 'round if careful
consideration is given to proper orientation at the
time the house is planned. While there are many
ways to improve the outdoor comfort of an existing

house or one that has been poorly oriented, it would
be better to solve the problems involved when the
house is in the planning stages. Correcting mistakes
is often expensive, and sometimes they can never be
completely rectified regardless of the amount of
money spent. (See "Controlling the Garden Cli-
mate," p. 25.)

Are you an ambitious gardener? Before be-
ginning to plan the garden, you might give some
thought to this question. Equally attractive gardens
can be planned either for the person who enjoys gar-
dening or the one who prefers to spend little time on
the actual care and upkeep. The ambitious gardener,
however, should not plan more than he can easily
handle. In this way, his garden will always look
neat, yet he will have time in which to enjoy it.

Four major areas should be considered
when planning a house and garden.

Although no two families are alike, all families
have similar basic problems.

1 . PUBLIC ACCESS is that portion facing the
street and consisting of front walk, porch and en-
trance hall, driveway, and front yard. Walks and
drives should be direct, functional, and well con-
structed. (See "Walks, Steps, and Ramps," p. 45.)
This area should present a neat and uncluttered
appearance at all times. Front porches and front
terraces are costly and might well be omitted unless
they have privacy from public view. Some sort of
protective cover against rain is needed over out-
side doorways, and a sufficient roof overhang should
be planned to keep direct sun out of windows dur-
ing the summer months.

A large public area is not necessary and is not
generally recommended as it requires consid-
erable maintenance and is little used except for
entering and leaving. However, a certain amount of
land between the house and street is necessary to act
as a buffer against dust, traffic, and noise. If the lot
is small, more use can sometimes be made of this
area by enclosing it with a wall or fence if local ordi-
nances do not prohibit doing this. If they do. how-

Page 15

Public area and front entrance should
be neat and uncluttered. Simple lines
of the houss are continued in brick
walk, lawn.

(Pasadena, Calif. Photo by Julius Shulman. James
C. Rose, Landscape Architect.)

ever, enclosure can still be achieved by a hedge or
other type of planting.

One of the best ways to keep a neighborhood from
looking monotonous, even with houses of similar
design, is to vary the "set-back." Most cities have a
minimum requirement, which means that the houses
cannot be placed nearer the street than the regulation
(25 feet in many communities). It does not mean,
however, that houses must be placed up to the 25-
foot line. They may be back as much as 28, 30, 35
feet or more. Just the difference of 5 feet in relation
to neighboring houses will give a home a great deal
more character than others which are in line with
one another.

Lots situated on the north side of east-west running
streets may be made more livable if the house is
located at the rear of the property and the garden
area placed in front or on the south side. The living
area to the northeast may be more desirable in the
Imperial Valley and other desert areas.

It is seldom necessary, nor does it improve the
appearance, to use hedges or other types of plantings
between the street or sidewalk and the house, at the
ends of walks, or at the sides of neighboring proper-
ties unless the view is unsightly and in need of
screening.

Actually, the public area needs very little plant-
ing. A well-kept lawn, shade trees, and a few well-
placed dwarf shrubs and vines should be adequate
in most cases. The most pleasing front yards are
those where the lawns flow, uninterrupted by plant-
ings, walls, or fences, from one property to another.
Shrubs, walls, and fences should be used where there
is a definite purpose for them, not merely as deco-
ration.

Three scenes are common to many homes today:

A junglelike setting (the pruning problem). Com-
mon in many residential areas is a junglelike setting
where shrubs conceal windows, crowd front door-
ways and sidewalks, or even grow over the tops of
the houses themselves. Most planting problems arise,
not from the use of too many plants, but from the
use of the wrong kinds. Badly butchered plants
which have lost all their natural form and character
as a result of severe pruning (an effort to keep them
within bounds) is another familiar sight.

Most pruning problems result from the wrong
selection of plant material. Dwarf shrubs which
grow not more than l^j feet high when mature can
be used near the house and underneath windows, as
they require little pruning or care.

Garages opening directly onto the street. It is not
uncommon to see the car parked outside and the
doors of the garage left open, exposing an assorted
collection of stored articles to the public view.

The "picture window." The use of large areas of
clear glass on the street side of the house is a mistake
made by many homeowners and builders. To secure
the privacy needed, such glass must be covered by
draperies or blinds. Thus the original purpose of the
window is defeated. Often the picture window be-
comes no more than a show window for displaying
household objects. Large, clear glass areas should be
used where there are good views and adequate
privacy. There are, however, many types of trans-
lucent glass which may be used where views and
privacy are lacking.

Page 16

i j Large, clear glass areas on street side often
' * turn picture windows into show windows.

2. LIVING AREAS are the centers of family
group activities. They consist of the living room,
eating areas, terraces, porches, patio, back lawn, and
spaces for games.

Use barriers sparingly. In the outdoor living area,
plantings, walls, screens, and fences should be used
only in sufficient quantity to provide adequate pri-
vacy and protection. Typical of many neighbor-
hoods, especially new housing developments, is the
encircling of the properties with board fences or with
fencing and hedging material of the same type, re-
sulting in an appearance not unlike animal stock-
yards. There is no reason why a pleasing combina-
tion of materials — for example / wire, wood, and
plants — cannot be used to achieve the necessary pri-
vacy without the monotony of typical tract housing,
and at a considerable saving in expense.

The objective of the living areas should be to pro-
vide a good relationship of inside spaces to those
outside so that the garden becomes a convenient and
useful extension of the various indoor rooms. This
does not necessarily mean that these areas must be
separated merely by glass walls. The areas closest
to the house will generally receive the most use if
terraces, porches, and other facilities are available
and convenient, and if use of unnecessary nights of
steps is avoided. Outdoor living spaces should be
reached without having to pass through the kitchen
or laundry. But when serving meals outdoors, easy
access to the kitchen should be possible.

3. PRIVATE AREAS are those surrounding the
private living spaces — bedrooms, bath, study, sleep-
ing porch, and sunbathing area. Privacy and quiet
are most important requirements in planning these
spaces.

Flexibility in planning is required for a good
workable solution. For example, small children must
have adequate supervision when they are playing
outside, and the play area should be visible from
kitchen, laundry, and living sections. But as children
grow older, they desire more privacy and will want
rooms and equipment of their own as well as places
to work and entertain friends.

Small terraces or porches leading directly from
the bedrooms make them more livable and private,
and permit children to enter their own rooms directly
from the outside. This in turn will help in cutting
down the mud and dirt ordinarily tracked through
the house. (See "Children in the Garden," p. 21.)

BE SURE YOUR PICTURE WINDOW FRAMES A PICTURE

Page 17

Above: A house well planned for family activ-
20 >t' e s< Terrace is raised to floor level for easy
access from house.

Right: Seclusion and quiet are essential in
bedroom, bath, and sunbathing areas. Here,
board-and-batten wall continues as matching
extension of house.

(Atherton, Calif. Photos by Ernest Braun. Eckbo, Royston and
Williams, Landscape Architects.)

4. WORK AND SERVICE AREAS consist of the
garage or carport and turnaround; kitchen and
laundry; garden storage for supplies, tools, and
equipment; space for garbage disposal; and space
for the drying yard near the laundry. Also, the vege-
table and cut flower gardens should be located as
near the kitchen as possible. A section of the garden
with a pleasant view should be visible to the home-
maker while she is working indoors.

Service areas tend to look cluttered even when
well kept, so that some sort of screening is always
necessary.

Page 18

The living area of this home includes a screened terrace for comfortable outdoor activities. Note
handling of small pool within paving blocks (upper right).

(Photo by Gottscho-Schleisner. Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.)

Walls of clear glass in this living area result
23 m privacy and a pleasing indoor-outdoor
relationship. Paving is shaded by trees.

(Pasadena, Calif. Photo by Julius Shulman. James C. Rose,
Landscape Architect.)

Wooden fence and trees at eye level insure
24 P r ' vacv anc ' quiet for this pleasing garden

corner.

(Photo by Gottscho-Schleisner. Courtesy House Beautiful
Magazine. James C. Rose, Landscape Architect.)

Page 19

Above: This garden area was designed espe-
njp cially for children. Paving around the sand
box is practical — spilled sand can be swept
back into box.

Left: Original plan of the garden shown
above. Combination seat and wind screen
helps to give privacy from neighboring gar-
dens.

(San Francisco, Calif. Photo by Ernest Braun. Lawrence
Halprin, Landscape Architect.)

CHILDREN in the GARDEN

Play areas should be planned

to provide for a variety of activities

Too little thought and imagination have been ap-
plied to making gardens and play equipment more
interesting and exciting for children. It is easy to
forget that their thinking is very different from that
of adults. They should have a large share in the en-
joyment of the garden, and be able to invite others
to join in their play.

Playground equipment. Children enjoy slid-
ing down poles, climbing ladders, crawling into
caves and tunnels, swinging on bars. Imaginative
playground equipment that is designed for these ac-
tivities is gradually becoming available. Some of the
equipment shown on these pages, although designed
for public playgrounds, could be adapted to a

smaller scale for the home garden. The simpler
pieces might even be constructed at home.

Wading pools. Even the smallest pool can be-
come a hazard to children, and extreme caution
must be observed when one is planned. It should
be located so that constant supervision is possible.

Water sports can be made even more exciting
when slides or swinging ropes are provided. Of
course, consideration should be given to the demands
of different age groups.

Sand boxes. Children always enjoy sand. How-
ever, it should be remembered that sand will seldom
stay in its allotted space, no matter how well its con-

nj Shredded tan bark underneath play equipment forms a soft surface and helps prevent injury from
^ ' falls. Safety measures are extremely important when children are at play.

(Modesto, Calif. Photo by Ernest Braun. Lawrence Halprin, Landscape Architect.)

no Above: Small-scale models of a new type of
^O ploy equipment for climbing and sliding.

(Photos by Max Jaikin. Designs by Frederick Jean Thalinger,
in Progressive Architecture.)

tainer may be designed and constructed. Paving
around the box permits sweeping most of the over-
flow back into it.

Because sand is ideal for animals to dig in, the
sand box should be protected from them by fencing
it off in some manner.

A sand box can be designed so that when it is no
longer needed for its original purpose it may be
converted to a wading pool or flower bed.

Work areas. Older boys need a special area
where they can do carpentry and mechanical work
without having the resulting clutter visible from the
rest of the garden. Such space should be included in
the service area, and be arranged so that they may
continue their work without having to clean it up at
the end of each day. Storage space for play equip-
ment, as well as for chairs and tables, can be pro-
vided in this area.

Provision may also be made for confined animals,
such as rabbits.

Space for games. Small children enjoy paved
areas on which they can pull wagons, ride tricycles
and bicycles. Paved walks (junior highways) which
follow interesting routes and return to the original
starting point without backtracking are the most fun.

Older children and grownups enjoy croquet, bad-
minton, softball, and other games. Adequate, un-
interrupted space should be available for a variety
of these sports if the family enjoys them.

Picnics, dances, or outdoor parties are also pop-
ular with the older age groups. (See "Outdoor Cook-
ing and Eating," p. 63.)

Below: Portable play equipment can turn any garden corner into a special area for children. This

equipment is not expensive.

(Photo by Charles Eames.)

While too large for the aver-
age garden, this free-form
playground sculpture suggests
what might be done at home
by using a fallen tree with
gnarled branches.

With imagination and some
bright paint, the old-fashioned
see-saw can become an attrac-
tive garden addition. "Tiger"
in background is really a slide.

Playground equipment that
could be adapted for home
use — wood or metal rods em-
bedded in cement.

(Photos by Harold Winder. Courtesy
Oakland Park Department.)

Page 24

CONTROLLING the GARDEN CLIMATE

Wind and sun can be problems
unless they are properly controlled

The primary objective in trying to control the
climate in a small area is to produce more outdoor
comfort. Comfort has to do with both temperature
and wind. Therefore, the solution to the problem
lies mostly with the control of sun and wind — sun
control being of primary concern in summer in many
areas. In winter, protection from wind and proper
orientation of house and garden are of major im-
portance.

Control of wind. Tests of wind currents by use
of smoke show that wind flows in nearly the same
manner as water, and should therefore be handled
in much the same way. Wind can be a very trouble-
some problem in open country and along the coastal
belt. In many areas of California, hedges, screens,
and windbreaks are necessary for adequate protec-
tion. Temperatures on the lee side of a hedge or

windbreak may be several degrees higher than on
the windward side, and wind velocity may be re-
duced more than half by such structures. Outdoor
wind control also influences indoor temperatures,
with a corresponding effect upon heating costs.

Fences may be used for wind control, but the de-
sign and construction may result in varying effects.

Plant materials can be effective in wind control.
Hedges and other plantings react in the same manner
as the lath fence by breaking the force of the wind
and diffusing it, rather than pushing it over the top.
A hedge may be more effective against wind than a
wall or fence. However, the more dense the foliage,
the better will be the protection.

Control of the sun. Lawns, shrubs, and trees
are all effective in controlling heat in the garden and
house. Evaporation of moisture from foliage is con-

A solid fence acts like a dam
and spills the wind over the fop

Lath spaced a lath width apart
diffuses and breaks up the force
of the wind

The addition of a baffle permits ' Dense foliage of plant materials

the wind to flow over more gently slows down the velocity of the wind

(Drawings, top and lower left, from Sunset Ideas for Landscaping Your Home. Menlo Park, Calif.: Lane Publishing Company.)

Page 25

siderable, and acts as a cooling system. This is very
effective and especially desirable in dry climates.

East or west walls may receive twice as much heat
in summer as in winter. In the early morning, during
the summer months, heat from the sun may be de-
sired because the soil and air temperatures outside,
and the air temperature inside, are lower at that time
of day. In the late afternoon, however, any addi-
tional heat is undesirable since the soil and air tem-
peratures have been previously warmed. In many of
the hot valley regions, it may even be advantageous
to keep any morning sun from warming the cool
body of air which has formed inside the house dur-
ing the night.

These facts should be carefully considered in
planning the house and the amount of glass to be
used. Plant materials combined with sufficient roof
overhang generally produce satisfactory control.

Houses located in the northern, central, and
coastal regions are generally more comfortable in
winter when they are oriented so that their living
areas face south or southeast. Terraces located on
the north or east are usually cooler in summer, but
south terraces are desirable in winter.

Deciduous trees and vines can be used on walls,
on trellises, over windows, terraces, and porches, to

produce cool summer living areas. In the fall, the
foliage drops, allowing adsorption and reradiation
of the winter sun's heat from paving materials at a
time when this is most desirable.

Plants, in addition to providing shade, absorb and
reradiate far less heat than does dry soil or inorganic
materials, such as walks, drives, terraces, and walls.

In hot regions, to improve the climate, the amount
of paving should be kept to a minimum.

It has been found that, on hot summer days, the
surface temperature above a lawn is often 25 or more
degrees below that of a black paved surface. Pave-
ment with a dark surface absorbs more heat, whereas
surfaces light in color reflect heat but also produce
glare. Large paved areas should be designed with
openings left in them for trees and other plant ma-
terials. Shade trees will lower the air temperature
beneath, reduce glare, and prevent absorption of
heat from soils and inorganic materials lying be-
neath them. Measurements indicate that, under
densely foliated trees, only 25 to 30 per cent of the
light penetrates through the foliage.

The number, location, size, and density of the sur-
rounding buildings, the amount of paved area, the
trees, shrubs, vines, and grass used, all have signifi-
cant effect on the climate of the site.

Left: Deciduous vine over glass areas keeps
out heat of summer sun, but allows warm
winter sun to enter. Below: Oak tree provides
shade in summer, sheds leaves in winter.
Deciduous trees are best for south and east
exposures except in desert areas. Evergreens
are generally too cold and damp underneath
in winter.

*X*&£

CONTROL of SMOKE, DUST, and NOISE

Special planning is required

in order to control these elements

In industrial areas where smoke, dust, and noise
are prevalent, any real enjoyment of the garden may
be impossible. Smoke and dust control is largely a
matter of community action or of careful consider-
ation by the homeowner when selecting a site.

When choosing a site near considerable industry,
it is wise to look for property to the windward side
of the city so that smoke, dust, odors, and noise will
not become a nuisance. If this is not possible, a large
belt of trees, such as a park, between residential and
industrial areas may be sufficient to filter and absorb
most of the smoke, dust, and noise. It has been found
that a wide belt of trees, lawns, and shrubs can re-
duce the dust by nearly 75 per cent. Evergreen plant
materials should be used where year-round control
is desired. (Architectural Forum, March, 1947.)
Dust, smoke, chemical-containing fumes from in-
dustrial plants, and cold weather combine to pro-
duce "smog" which makes visibility poor, cuts out
large quantities of light, and may reduce by almost
half the ultraviolet rays when they are most needed.
Heavy smog may actually affect people's health and
cause damage to plants in areas where it is present.
A hot-humid summer climate may be prevalent in
many cities where the sun's heat is absorbed by
smoke and dust.

Airborne sound. Plants are constructed much
like many commercial acoustical materials, but as
they continue to grow, they provide increasingly
better sound control. The greater the amount of foli-
age, the more openings and pockets there are to trap
noise. If choice of plant materials is made with this
in mind, reasonably effective control is possible.
Walls, fences, and buildings may either reflect
sound or carry it through the structural material.
Solid, heavy construction, such as brick and con-
crete, is far better in preventing sound penetration
than is light construction. Smooth surfaces reflect
more sound than do rough-textured ones. The con-
struction materials and surfacing used for fences
and walls depend upon their suitability for a par-
ticular garden and upon the amount of noise and
traffic to be overcome, nearness to railroads, fac-
tories, and the like.

Sounds go over fop

qz Masonry walls (brick, stone, concrete, etc.)
JO reflect sound, show little noise penetration.

Wood construction is more easily penetrated
OT by noise than is masonry, but it is less expen-
'** sive and, in most instances, has proved satis-
factory.

While plants of dense foliage reflect almost
33 no sounds, they are good noise absorbing
materials.

Page 27

Deciduous plants work well in the cooler regions
where doors and windows are open when these plants
are in leaf and, in most areas, are closed in winter
when the foliage has dropped.

In regions where outdoor living is possible during
both winter and summer, evergreen trees and shrubs
are recommended for year-round sound control.

Lawns are effective in reducing reflected sounds
and those which come in contact with the ground.
The effectiveness, however, increases with an in-
crease in the height of cut. This can be of consider-
able importance where there is passing automobile
traffic or children playing.

Trees and shrubs of dense texture, that is, those
having small leaves closely packed together, are
the most suitable because they have many more
openings, per square foot, between the leaves and
branches than do the large, smooth-leaved plants.
These openings diffuse and break up the sounds.
The native holly-leaved cherry (Prunus ilicifolia)
would be suitable for this purpose. Many of the
large-leaved plants having hairy, wrinkled, or rough
surfaces, such as the sycamore (Platanus spp.), are
also suitable. If trees are used, a barrier of shrubs
should be planted near the base of the trunks to
catch the sound waves passing between.

A WORD ABOUT LAWNS

In the garden plan there will undoubtedly be open
areas planted either to grass or groundcovers.

In general, the most satisfactory cover for an area
that is to be walked on is a turf grass or a mixture of
several grasses. There is really no adequate substi-
tute for a well-planted, well-kept lawn. It provides
a soft, clean play surface for children; prevents
glare; helps cool the atmosphere in hot weather;
reduces the tracking of mud in wet weather; prevents
soil erosion; filters blowing dust; and is a good
sound absorbing material.

In addition to deciding where a lawn is to be
planted, consider its purpose (heavy traffic, play
area, etc.), whether trees will shade it, the type of
soil available, grading, if necessary, and drainage

provisions. All these will determine what type of
lawn to plant, and the selection of seed. You may
even find that relatively little mowed turf will be
necessary.

Other than grasses and clover, dichondra is one
of the few groundcovers which makes a suitable turf
for walking and playing. It requires high nitrogen
fertilizers and as much water as most turf grasses,
but no mowing is necessary unless an even surface
is desired. Establishing and weeding it may be prob-
lems. It is also subject to root-knot nematodes.

A few grasses, such as those of the Zoysia species,
do not grow very high, and therefore need little cut-
ting. Zoysia matrella is one of the most successful
for a situation such as this.

Page 28

PLANTS and PLANTING

Selecting the right plants is

an important step in garden planning

Plants are essential elements comprising any gar-
den. They should be used to define or enclose space;
as a surfacing material; for overhead shelter; and
to lend color, form, structure, pattern, and texture
interest. Because they grow and change constantly,
the problem of planning a garden is a difficult one.
However, the basic forms and structures of plants
are known, so that it is possible to predict what a
tree or shrub, with proper care, will be like when it
reaches maturity.

The selection of plants should be made only after
a general design has been carefully worked out.
Then each plant can be chosen for a definite location
to serve a specific function in the over-all plan of
the garden.

Before buying nursery plants, ask yourself the
following questions:

What form and size of plant is needed?

Is it to be a groundcover; dwarf shrub; large
shrub for enclosure, privacy, or windbreak; small
or large tree? The importance of plants, according
to their use, lies in their relation to the scale of a

person, and whether they grow above or below his
eye level.

1 . Vines may be used for screening unsightly
areas; to secure privacy; as a means of cooling
porches and terraces; to prevent glare and heat ab-
sorption on paved areas; or for their interesting
growth forms, foliage, flowers, fruit, pattern, and
texture. Plants that attract numbers of insects should
be avoided. The trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)
often attracts ants which may become a nuisance.

Vines climb by means of various devices, such as:
twining stems (wistaria and honeysuckle) ; tendrils
(grape) ; rootlike holdfasts along the stems (trum-
pet vines, English ivy) ; tendrils with adhesive disks
(Boston ivy) ; drooping or rambling over a support,
such as an arbor or trellis (climbing or rambler
roses, winter jasmine).

2. Groundcovers (to 12 inches high — below
eye level of persons sitting). These reduce main-
tenance; cut down the heat absorption of the soil;
help prevent soil erosion; and provide pattern and
texture interest. If they are to be used, investigate
their growth habits, soil and moisture requirements,

(8) Large Trees, 50'+ ")'' V-
(conifers) usually used ' ^,_3

for background screen

Terrace

(2) Ground Covers, 0-12"

Landscape plants may be divided into eight size groups determined by the average eye level of the
person sitting or standing.

(Drawing based on Standard Size Groups by Ralph W. Curtis, Cornell University.)

Page 29

Above: Plant structure should be visible. Vines
mm* that are permitted to grow too thick conceal
™J not only their own form but also the support-
ing material.

Below: Dwarf shrubs such as daphne (D. odora
marginata) are slow growing but useful, re-
quire almost no pruning, do not conceal win-
dows or crowd the walks.

(Photos by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams,
Landscape Architects.)

susceptibility to pests and diseases, reactions to sun
or shade, and their aggressiveness against weed en-
croachment. Some of the most successful ones for
California include bugleweed (Ajuga reptans),
Aaron's beard (Hypericum calycinum) , and com-
mon periwinkle (Vinca minor). While ajuga and
most other groundcovers fall into the class of plants
that are not compact or low enough or are too tender
to withstand trampling, they are, however, very use-
ful in areas where there is no traffic.

3. Dwarf shrubs (l 1 /^ to 3 feet high — below
eye level of persons sitting). Their main advantage
is the fact that they are still small when mature, and
will not require constant pruning to keep them from
obscuring the view or cutting out light. Examples
of several excellent dwarf shrubs suitable for most
regions of California are: three members of the
rock-rose family (Cistus), C. crispus, C. purpureus,
and C. villosus; the dwarf Japanese euonymus
(Euonymus japonicus var. microphyllus) ; and the
tamarisk juniper (Juniperus Sabina var. tamarisci-
folia).

4. Small shrubs (4 to 5 feet high — above eye
level of persons sitting; below eye level of persons
standing). These plants provide a low screen or
barrier. Even small shrubs may be too large to be
used next to the house. Three shrubs suitable in this
classification are: Pfitzer's juniper (Juniperus chi-
nensis var. Pfitzeriana) ; India hawthorne (Ra-
phiolepis indica) ; and a species of germander
( Teucrium fruticans ) .

5. Medium shrubs (6 to 8 feet high — above
eye level of persons standing). This group is useful
in providing a screen from the public view. The
cotoneasters (parneyi), (pannosa), and (harrovi-
ana) ; escallonia (E. macrantha) ; heavenly bamboo
(Nandina domestica) ; Japanese pittosporum (Pitto-
sporum Tobira) ; the pyracanthas (P. coccinea) and
(P. crenato-serrata) fall within this group.

6. Large shrubs (12 to 25 feet high). Plants
in this group grow high enough to screen off areas
above the eye level. They are therefore useful in
obtaining privacy and for windbreak purposes.
These shrubs are most important as space enclosing
materials. Five useful large shrubs for these situa-
tions are: the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) ;
thorny eleagnus (E. pungens) ; the Australian tea
tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) ; and the Chinese
photinia (Photinia serrulata) .

7. Small trees (12 to 25 feet high). Usually a
view is blocked somewhat by overhead branching
and is clearly visible only if people are sitting.
Small trees are used for flower and foliage interest,

•

l:'

^»*

* » • "

K '*

9i *£m .

v.V- '

% %

* \" 4*"

~Jn

/*»**-.'- '3

m n Groundcover of bugle weed (Ajuga reptens) under the trees eliminates the necessity for weeding or
"^ mowing. Various elements of this garden integrate well with one another.

(Palo Alto, Calif. Photo by Shan Stewart. Geraldine Scott, Landscape Architect.)

for screening, and for form and structural interest.
Many of them may be too small to produce much
usable shade. Among the interesting small trees are:
the silk tree (Albizzia julibrissin) ; loquat (Erio-
botrya japonica) ; carob (Ceratonia siliqua) ; gold-
enrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) ; and the
mayten tree (Maytenus boaria).

8. Large trees (50 feet or over). Overhead
branching, with the exception of most of the conif-
erous or narrow-leaved trees, is usually high enough
to permit an unobstructed line of sight beneath even
when people are standing. Trees with broad, spread-
ing branches provide overhead protection from the
hot sun. However, the density, extent, and type of
foliage determine the amount of shelter given. De-
ciduous trees have distinct advantages over ever-
greens. Their foliage cools the garden in summer,
but does not remain during the fall and winter
months when the house and garden need the full
benefit of the sun. Broad-leaved evergreen trees may
be desired, however, for year-round shade in the
Imperial Valley and other desert areas. The narrow-
leaved evergreens generally grow into an upright
form, and are useful for dust and noise control and

for windbreak purposes, both in winter and summer.
They may, however, present problems because of
continuous needle dropping.

It is also well to find out about the root system
of a tree. If it is shallow-rooted, it may blow down
in a storm; if it has deep or wide spreading roots it
may become entangled in the sewer or drainage
systems. Trees with weak wood may also cause dam-
age if they cannot withstand a storm. Others may
have harmful diseases that cause premature leaf
drop.

Large trees may be divided into two general
groups: deciduous (those which lose their leaves
annually); and evergreen (those which hold green
leaves throughout the year). Most deciduous plant-
are broad-leaved, but both broad- and narrow-leaved
plants are found in abundance in the evergreen
group. Examples of both groups are listed below.

DECIDUOUS

Chinese hackberry {Cellis sinensis)

Maidenhair tree {Gingko biloba)

Thornless honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis)

Tulip tree (Liriodendroii tulipifera)

Chinese pistachio (Pistacia chinensis)

Page 31

Plants have a wide range of form and growth
habits. Where large trees are the center of
interest, the other plantings may be kept
simple.

(Photo by Rondal Partridge. Thomas D. Church, Landscape
Architect.)

EVERGREEN
Narrow-leaved

Deodar cedar {Cedrus Deodara)
Incense cedar (Libocedrus decurrens)
Monterey pine (Pinus radiata)
Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis)
Coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens)

Broad-leaved

Bottle tree (Br achy chiton populneus)
Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus spp.)
Bull bay (Magnolia grandiflora)
California live oak (Quercus agrijolia)

How large is the garden area?

The extent of the garden space should determine
the materials to be used in it, especially with regard
to their size at maturity. The very small yard should
not be planted with large shrubs and trees which
are not in scale with the size of the garden. They
restrict what little space exists, and crowd and con-
ceal doors, windows, and walks.

How fast and how large do plants grow?

The mature size and rate of growth of each plant
must be known in order to determine just what func-
tion it can serve. For example, many fast growing
trees are short lived and have serious structural
weaknesses as compared with the slower growing
plants which are more sturdy and more permanent.
Also, by knowing how large a plant will be when
fully grown, the homeowner can allow adequate
space for it at the planting stage, and avoid future
problems with ungainly shrubs and oversized trees.
He may find the answers to these and many other
questions by consulting his county Farm Advisor,
local nurserymen, landscape architects, and the
many publications available in most libraries.

What is the plant's natural form, structure,
and type of foliage?

This must be known in order to use plants cor-
rectly. Under normal conditions, plants will achieve
certain distinguishable forms and structure patterns,
such as a twining vine, a prostrate or erect shrub, a
dense or open shade tree. The type of foliage and
the amount of coverage given also determine how
a plant is to be used.

It is always best to observe how a plant actually
grows in a particular locale. It may be possible to
visit arboretums and botanical gardens near by.
One may see well established plants at the following
arboretums: in southern California, at Anaheim, the
Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, at San Marino,
the Huntington Botanical Gardens; in the central
coastal region, at Santa Barbara, the Santa Barbara
Botanic Gardens; in northern California, at San
Francisco, the Strybing Arboretum at Golden Gate
Park, at Berkeley, Davis, and Los Angeles, the Uni-

-ttgfg^

mm Plants with wide spreading growth habits
^^ should be avoided near walks and entrances.

Page 32

versity of California Arboretums and Botanical
Gardens, at Sacramento, the Capitol Park, and at
Placerville, the Institute of Forest Genetics.

Is the plant deciduous or evergreen?

Generally, most deciduous trees and shrubs flower
more profusely than do the evergreen types. When
deciding between them, remember that evergreen
plants produce a cold, damp area underneath them
during the winter months. For this reason, ever-
green trees should not be used on south and east
exposures except in desert areas. Both types should
be used in combination, however, because a garden
would be dull and drab in winter with only decidu-
ous materials, and would lack color if only ever-
greens were used.

What is the color of the flowers, fruit, bark,
and foliage?

Determine first whether the selection of a plant is
mainly for its flower or fruit characteristics or for
the function its form plays in the garden plan. Plants
grown to provide cutting flowers, such as the hybrid
tea roses, should be grown together in a separate
area where proper care and management can be
provided.

A few evergreens, such as the heavenly bamboo
(Nandina domestica) and the Chinese photinia
(Photinia serrulata) , produce, in most localities, in-
teresting red to bronze foliage coloring. Among the
deciduous plants, the Chinese pistachio (Pistacia
chinensis) turns orange to red, and the maidenhair
tree (Gingko biloba) to a fine, clear yellow.

A tremendous variety of plants is available —
those with yellow flowers, such as the flannel bush
(Fremontia spp.), fragrant white flowers and rich,
dark green foliage of the star jasmine (Trachelo-
spermum jasminoides) , silvery gray foliage of the
germander (Teucrium fruticans), clusters of red
berries of the toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), and
those with interesting edible fruit, such as the kum-
quat (Fortunella) and the loquat (Eriobotrya).

The home gardener should be warned, however,
not to try to grow everything. Too great a variety
generally results in a cluttered and unorganized
appearance.

What are the cultural requirements of the
plants?

The selection of plants should be determined in
part by the cultural requirements necessary for
healthy growth — the amount of maintenance, prun-
ing, spraying, dusting, and watering required;

In this garden, succulents have been used to
AC advantage. They are especially desirable for
dry locations — are also good for use in con-
tainers.

(Photo by Mason Weymouth. Geraldine Scott, Landscape
Architect.)

Cactus and succulents are available in many
AL forms and sizes, require little water and up-
keep. They must be used properly to be effec-
tive.

(Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.)

Page 33

hardiness; tolerance of sun, shade, and moisture;
and types of soil in which plants are to be grown.
The homeowner should consult his local Farm Ad-
visor or nurseryman concerning these problems.

What about native plants?

Western gardens should be composed of many
plants indigenous to the climate. However, almost
90 per cent of the plants used are either foreign in-
troductions or from the eastern United States, where
climatic conditions are entirely different. California
has many native trees and shrubs with interesting
ornamental flowers and fruit that compare very
favorably with the introductions commonly grown
in most gardens.

Native plants require little watering except to get
them established. Many cannot tolerate any summer
watering, although some can. This makes their use
with other ornamentals somewhat difficult. Knowl-
edge of the water requirements is necessary in the
selection and use of natives. Many suffer from lack
of drainage caused either by heavy soils or insuffi-
cient surface slope. The fact that little water is re-
quired should be of special interest to homeowners
where available water may be scarce.

A few natives of outstanding value for landscape
purposes are the toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia),
redbud (Cercis occidentalis) , flannel bush (Fre-
montia), holly -leaved cherry (Prunus illicifolia),
the oaks (Quercus spp.), California lilac (Cea-
nothus spp.), and the madrone (Arbutus Menziesii).
Many of the most common ones can be purchased
at local nurseries, and a few nurserymen specialize
in native materials.

Many foreign plants have characteristics similar
to those of the California natives. For example,
plants from the Mediterranean region and Australia
often have similar water and cultural requirements
and can be used successfully in combination with
local natives. Familiar ones are the olive, eucalyp-
tus, pomegranate, and camphor.

SELECTING NURSERY STOCK

Have a good plan. Before visiting the nurs-
ery, develop a workable and sound plan. Select ma-
terials that are already growing well in your locality
or those adapted to local climatic conditions.

Try to avoid accepting gift plants from friends
and neighbors unless such plants have a definite
place in the garden plan and are free of diseases
and insects.

Select from a reliable firm in the locality. The

better nurseries are interested in establishing and
maintaining a good reputation, and will seldom offer
inferior stock for sale.

When ordering plant material, investigate whether
county-line inspections will delay shipment.

Avoid "pot-bound" materials. Plants which ap-
pear too large for their containers are usually pot-
bound. The roots may have difficulty in overcoming
this condition even after the plant is placed in the
ground.

Deciduous materials are usually sold "bare root"
during the early spring months. It is advantageous
to obtain them in this condition as they are less
expensive than are those growing in containers.
Bare root plants should be planted while still in a
dormant condition. They are usually available in
cans after they have come out of their dormancy.

Evergreen plants are generally sold in cans, tubs,
boxes, or balled in burlap. Plants purchased in con-
tainers generally may be planted at any season of
the year.

MAINTENANCE

The maintenance factor should be carefully con-
sidered when drawing up a design plan and when
selecting the materials that will be used to carry
out the design. Without proper care of the garden
upon its completion, most of the preliminary work
in planning and plant selection will be only wasted
effort. The planning stage is the time to apply the
test to determine whether a garden design is prac-
tical, well planned, and a workable solution for the
one who is to maintain it. If you are not the garden-
ing kind, design the garden for as little work as
possible. But if you are interested in gardening, it
may be well to plan so that if the garden should
become burdensome in later years, the maintenance
can be reduced without destroying the design. Be-
fore planning begins, list those items which require
the most and least maintenance.

Items requiring the most maintenance

1. Lawns (mowing, edging, clipping, watering,
weeding, and spraying for insects and diseases).
Level or nearly level, open lawn areas having
straight sides, not cut up with trees and shrubs, are
easier to care for than sloping land or small areas
with curved or irregular shapes, interrupted with
various types of planting or architectural materials.

Actually only a moderate amount of the garden
demands a surface to be walked on, but most of it is
usually planted to turf grasses. Many surface cover-
ing materials, such as the groundcovers, some of the

Page 34

Zoysia and fescue grasses which grow only a few
inches high, and paving materials, can be used to
reduce the time spent in mowing and care, espe-
cially on slopes or in areas which are small and
restricted.

2. Flowers. Annuals and perennials are not so
permanent as woody plants, usually do not provide
so good a surface covering, and require additional
work in starting, dividing, planting, staking, tying,
spraying or dusting, weeding, and watering.

There are, however, some excellent compact
growing perennials and succulents which form good
surface covers and add color and interest in foliage
and flowers. Some of these include the sedums, the
wild strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis), and many
of the Gazania and Senecio species.

Gardens designed originally for beds of flowers
or bulbs should be replaceable at any time with
low-maintenance materials, such as the ornamental
St. Johnswort (Hypericum calycinum) (not to be
confused with Klamath weed [Hypericum perfor-
atum]), English ivy (Hedera helix), and bugle-
weed (Ajuga reptens).

Lawn mower runs over an edging strip of
brick, so that hand clipping is not required.

3. Clipped hedges. Some hedge plants, such
as the privets (Ligustrum), grow very rapidly and
often require a great deal of maintenance to keep
them within the desired form. For hedges, it is well
to consider plants such as the holly-leafed cherry
(Prunus illicifolia) which makes an excellent hedge
because it is fairly slow growing and requires little
clipping.

PRUNE TO PRESERVE STRUCTURE

If the proper plants have been chosen for the gar-
den, very little pruning will be necessary. Any that
is done will be merely enough to preserve the natural
form of the plant; to remove dead material, broken
or rubbing branches, or old flowers and fruit; or,
with hedges and espaliered plants, to maintain the
desired form. Shade trees sometimes produce suck-
ers and secondary leaders which need to be removed.
Aside from the above-mentioned exceptions, land-
scape plants should be permitted to develop their
natural forms and growth habits and should re-
quire little pruning.

Should extensive pruning become necessary, it
usually means that the original choice of plant ma-
terials was not made wisely. Then shrubs and trees
must be pruned to remove wide spreading branches
that block movement along a walk or drive; to per-

mit a view of the garden from inside the house; or
to let in sunlight.

The best way to correct such mistakes is to remove
the overgrown plants and replace them either with
dwarf shrubs or ones that will not outgrow a given
situation. This will also reduce maintenance.

Good pruning requires special skill. It can be de-
structive when done by an inexperienced person.
"Trimming" can keep many shrubs from producing
flowers and fruit in addition to destroying their
natural form and structure. We have all seen, at
some time, a once beautiful plant reduced to a few-
sticks or stumps by amateur pruning.

Before you prune, ask yourself, "Does the plant
need pruning and, if so, why?" Better yet, choose
the right plants to begin with, and pruning need
never become a problem.

Page 35

SIMPLIFIED GARDENING

is possible when you use containers

Right: Portable earthenware containers are
large enough to prevent rapid drying out and
cramping of the root systems.

(Photo by James H. Reed. Courtesy Architectural Pottery,
Venice, Calif.)

Left: Variety in a lim-
ited area can be
achieved by use of
built-in containers.

(San Francisco, Calif. Photo by
Ernest Braun. Lawrence Hal-
prin, Landscape Architect.)

Right: Outdoor foliage plants
50 ma Y be kept in bounds by use
of permanent containers.

(La Jolla, Calif. Photo by Robert B.
Deering.)

PLANT CONTAINERS

Both portable and stationary types
provide variety and ease of maintenance

It is often desirable to use plant containers, not
only indoors but also outside the house. Such plant-
ings add interest to a garden setting by their foliage,
texture, or seasonal changes.

One of the main drawbacks to growing plants in
this manner is that constant watering is required —
the year around, indoors, and during the summer
months outside. However, many interesting desert
plants, as well as cacti and succulents, require very
little water and adapt well to being grown in con-
tainers.

Plantings of succulents, such as species of eche-
veria and kalanchoe, used with cacti, such as the
dwarf prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) or the Cereus
species, often result in very interesting combina-
tions.

The most satisfactory arrangement for such plant-
ings is to have the containers built into the floor of
the house or as part of the permanent garden design.
The larger they are, the more plants can be grown,
with less watering required. Built-in containers are
easier to water and keep clean than are a series of
individual pots or tubs scattered throughout the
house. Small, unglazed clay pots dry out fast be-
cause they are porous. Plants grown in such pots
require more watering than do those in almost all
other types of containers.

There are, however, many advantages to movable
containers. Because they can be changed around
from one location to another they can be useful in
improving the appearance of terrace or patio — per-
haps as temporary decoration during outdoor enter-
taining. They may be used to provide color at a time
when other, permanent plantings are not at their
best. And they also provide one simple method of
improving older gardens where extensive remodel-
ing or new plantings may not be feasible.

Requirements of good plant containers are:

1 . Resistance to rot. Redwood, asbestos, clay, con-
crete, and masonry are suitable. The rust-proof
metals, such as corrugated aluminum, may also be
used.

2. Sturdy construction that will not warp.

3. Correct size. Containers should be large enough
to keep roots from becoming pot bound and from
drying out too rapidly.

4. Ease of watering. (Holes should be provided
for good drainage.)

Any plant with especially interesting form, struc-
ture, and foliage may be suitable for growing in a
container. However, cultural requirements of cer-
tain plants may prohibit their use in confined spaces.
Also, the indoor atmosphere of many homes is too
warm and dry for ornamentals. Under such condi-
tions, succulents or desert plants would be better.

The following plants have proved interesting and
useful when grown in containers:

Red horse chestnut (Aesculus carnea)

Camellia (Camellia spp.)

Mirror plant (Coprosma baueri)

Fatshedera (F. lizei)

Fatsia (F. japonica)

Maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba)

Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulan geaim)

Monterey pine {Pinus radiata)

Dwarf rosemary [Rosmarinus officinalis var. pros-

tratus)
Weeping hemlock (Tsuga canadensis var. pendula I
Viburnum {V. rhytidophyllum)

A low "tray" on wheels holds a variety of
CI containers, can be moved easily for use in-
doors or outside.

(Photo and design by Charles Eames.)

Left: Spun glass and plastic material was used
52 f° r tms excellent light screen. (Coffee table is
concrete, with embedded steel legs.)

(Photo by Ezra Stoller. James B. Rose, Landscape Architect.)

Below, left: '
mits light to e

y conceals a service area, per-
r heavy or massive.

(Photo by Shan Stewart.)

Below, center: a solid wooden
ture and by the use of a vari<

(Thomas D. Church, I

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iff*. '*■>' ^' r -. ■ '■ *Sr * v'/-T "" -Ti*

'*3frz*i®

METHODS of ENCLOSURE

The kind you choose should

be related to the design of the house

Walls, fences, and screens may be used in the gar-
den to serve several purposes. They may eliminate
unsightly views; afford privacy; confine children
and pets ; act as windbreaks ; or provide backgrounds
for shrubs, trees, and flowers. Several functions may
be served by a single structure.

Fencing is expensive, and requires considerable
time to build and maintain. The homeowner often
makes the common mistake of using walls and fences
where they are not needed. For example, it is gen-
erally unnecessary to build a fence on the street side
of the property or along the line where your lawn
joins that of your neighbor.

Another mistake to avoid is the overuse of one
type of fencing material. Fences look best when used
in conjunction with planting, and should be related
to the design of the house. Combinations of wood,

masonry, wire with vines, and plant material can be
used successfully to produce interesting results that
are not monotonous. The best walls and fences are
simple (without trimming or fancy work). They are
less conspicuous and easier to build and maintain
than are more elaborate ones.

Fences for the control of wind and for situations
where privacy and cooling breezes are desired re-
quire special design and construction. (See "Con-
trolling the Garden Climate," p. 25.)

When one analyzes the problem of screening for
privacy, he will notice that it is generally essential
to obstruct the view only at eye level as shown in
Figure 56. In addition, it is seldom necessary to
provide solid screening — to divert the attention
from an unwanted view on the opposite side may be
enough.

:e was made interesting by its struc- r r Straight wooden poles laced together form an effective background

if plant materials. for decorative plaque, built-in plant' container.

;ape Architect.) (Photo by Douglas Baylis, Landscape Architect. Plaque by Florence Swift.)

v4i

BH^r sr!^*i_

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&L2

L^f

liitf.

'- fr ,,"■

raSMSBSI!

Wire fabric painted in a light
56 color can be used effectively for
partial screening.

(Student Garden, Dept. of Landscape Man-
agement, Univ. of Calif., Davis. Photo by
Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deer-
ing.)

Corrugated transite is excellent
for screening. It is strong, will not
rot, and is easy to use.

(Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger.
Design by Robert B. Deering.)

Wooden screens placed at correct
angles to a line of sight give
privacy while allowing access at
all points.

(Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine.

Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.)

GRADING, DRAINAGE, and
RETAINING WALLS

Some grading is always necessary,

but the problem is serious on hillside sites

A site with nearly level land presents fewer de-
velopment problems than does a hilly site, is less
costly, easier to landscape, and more usable. On
some hillside sites, provision for adequate grading
and drainage may be complex, difficult, and expen-
sive.

Surface water runoff. Every site, including
level ones, must have some grading to provide for
drainage. This is necessary to insure that surface
water will flow away from the house, in a direction
where it will not cause damage to the land or to
neighboring property. Only a gentle slope is re-
quired, which need not be visible to the eye.

Groundcovers and other plant materials help pre-
vent erosion caused by surface water. If your prop-
erty has banks and slopes, consider the steepness and
the type of plant material to be used. These factors
are important with respect to future maintenance.
(See "Plants and Planting," p. 29.)

Drainage from roofs. Water from downspouts
may cause damage and wash away soil. One solution
to this problem is to pipe the water into the city storm
sewer system if there is one. If this is not possible,

such drainage water may be piped into a small
underground sump. Water should not be piped into
septic tanks or into the sanitary sewer system.
"Splash blocks" placed under downspouts lessen the
force of the water, and are inexpensive.

Living areas should be level. There are sev-
eral methods for achieving level areas without exca-
vating or filling. Sometimes it may be more practical
to extend a deck, porch, or terrace out over a slope,
on wooden posts or steel pipe columns, rather than
to use fill or retaining walls. For smaller slopes,
the retaining wall method may be simpler and
more practical. Keep in mind that the natural beauty
of the land is not enhanced when its form and con-
tours are greatly changed merely to provide level
areas. This is an important consideration in choosing
a site. The hilly one you have in mind may look at-
tractive, but it might be less expensive and more
satisfactory, in the end, to select a different one with
fewer grading problems.

Filling and excavating around trees. It is
often necessary to raise or lower the grade around
trees to produce level areas for better use of space.

.a The problem of building on sloping land was solved here by constructing the house on two levels.
^ * Landscaping is always more expensive on sloping land.

Gordon Drake, Architect.)

le downward
away from trunk

Above: Satisfactory method for raising the
AQ grade around a tree. Below: Overhead view
of plan, showing placement of tile system.

(Based on drawings in Maintenance of Shade and Ornamen-
tal Trees, by P. P. Pirone. Oxford University Press, New York.)

f^"'."El* I Excavated Soil

ffJT^V

Above: Diagram shows one method for lower-
q] ing the grade around a tree. Below: Overhead
view of same diagram.

ight Bell Tile

Outer Branches
of Tree

This may cause serious difficulties if proper precau-
tions are not taken before grading is done. While
most trees will not suffer from the application of a
few inches of topsoil, serious injury may result from
incorrect use of fill around trees.

Symptoms of such injury are: small, yellow
leaves; suckering at base of trunk and branches;
dead twigs and branches.

The extent of injury depends upon the tree's
species, age, condition, upon the depth and type
of fill, and the drainage.

Trees most severely injured are maples, oaks, and
coniferous evergreens. Those least affected are elms,
willows, poplars, planes, and locusts.

Injury becomes more serious with increasing
depth of fill. The nonporous clay soils cause the most
damage. Application of several inches of gravelly
soil, or soil of the type in which the tree has been

Page 42

growing, will generally do no harm. Additional roots
usually will be produced in this area.

Is the tree worth saving? The cost of leveling
and grading is high. A young tree can be replaced
for less than the price of the precautionary measures.
Consider the following questions in deciding what
is to be done: Is the tree old, weak, and not worth
saving? Is it sickly, with injuries that will shorten its
life? Is it a short-lived species? Is it susceptible to
deadly diseases?

Lowering grade does not disturb normal function-
ing of roots nearly so much as does filling. The prin-
cipal disturbance is in changing the water supply.
Many California natives have such deep root systems
that lowering the natural grade around them results
in almost no appreciable change in their continued
growth.

Injury may result from sunscalding, and some

roots will die if they are bared. Damaged roots
should he treated and kept from drying by covering
them with peat moss and incorporating well-rotted
manure or leaf mold into the soil to increase the
water intake.

Terracing, building walls, or boxing in a sufficient
area around the tree and leaving the original grade
disturb the tree the least, and will still provide an
adequate amount of usable level area. A number of
drainage outlets, or "weep holes," should be con-
structed in the walls to allow for water run-off.

(The material on trees, in this section, is based on
information in Maintenance of Shade and Orna-
mental Trees, by P. P. Pirone. See references, p. 69. )

Good trees are worth saving. Photos left and
below show attractive use of redwood, con-
crete, and brick for boxing.

(Left: Photo by Phil Fein. Courtesy American Home Magazine.
Below. Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1950,
The Conde' Nast Publications, Inc. Eckbo, Royston and Wi
liams, Landscape Architects.)

Page 43

, « Broad, brick treads with low risers provide ease of movement from one garden level to another. Note
03 how both flights of steps integrate with the brick and stone walls, give continuity to the design.

(Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.)

Page 44

WALKS, STEPS, and RAMPS

Sound construction determines
the success of these garden details

The various levels of the garden should be easily
accessible, and this may be achieved by means of
walks, steps, and ramps.

Walks. In general, walks should be as direct as
possible for ease of access. However, in cases where
their use may mean dividing up a fine lawn into two
or more unrelated areas, thereby spoiling the ap-
pearance, a less direct route should be planned. Be
sure that it is not so indirect that shortcuts will be
taken.

Walks are expensive, and their use should be justi-
fied. Most homes need paved walks only where ex-
cessive traffic along the same areas would wear away
the turf.

The inexperienced person should lay walks that
have straight sides, and turn at an angle rather than
curve. Curved walks are difficult to construct, and
generally do not look so well with houses having
rectangular lines. They often look awkward because
they appear to wander around the property for no
apparent reason. Straight walks need not be monot-
onous, nor must they always have parallel sides.
They may be expanded to wider areas where people
are likely to concentrate, such as near doorways, at
the street entrance, or adjoining parking areas and
drives. This expansion should be in the direction
from which the traffic comes, which may mean that
a walk will be larger on one side than on the other.

z - Walks need not be laid in continuous strips. The plan shown above does not cut up the lawn area
04 and is less monotonous.

(Drawing from design by Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.)

Page 45

These inexpensive steps are constructed of redwood risers filled with crushed gravel to form broad,
convenient treads.

(Marin County, Calif. Photo by Esther Born. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.)

In widening, use only straight or angular sides, since
flaring curves appear awkward and may spoil the
appearance of the whole area.

Build walks wide enough. Most walks are too
narrow. A walk leading to the front entrance should
be wide enough to accommodate two people walking
side by side, or passing in opposite directions. This
requires a walk about 4 feet wide. For service use,
walks 21/2 to 3 feet wide are adequate. The widest,
most prominent and attractive walks should lead to
the front and main entrances; smaller and less con-
spicuous ones, to the back and service entrances.

Walks need not be laid in continuous strips. A
straight walk constructed through the middle of the
front lawn divides it into two areas unrelated to each
other. Laying the paving in separate sections and
allowing grass or a groundcover to carry through
from one area to another reduce the feeling of sharp
separation. Changing the width and size of the slabs
also helps considerably.

Construct walks well for safety. A walk consisting
of teetering stepping stones, waste cement, rough-cut
flagstone, or irregular pieces of stone can be more
hazardous than most people realize. Bad falls can
result from tripping, or catching one's heel.

Maintenance. Stepping stones and walks of
irregular pattern require much time in edging and
trimming. Usually grass grows between the stones,

requiring that each be clipped around by hand. Some
stones may protrude above the ground enough to
nick the blades of the mower. If this type of walk
is desired, large, rectangular stones with dwarf
groundcovers, such as sandwort ( Arenaria) , bugle-
weed (Ajuga reptans), or dichondra, planted be-
tween them are recommended to reduce the amount
of hand labor. (See "Paving Materials and Con-
struction Methods," p. 53.)

Steps and ramps. Steps and ramps should be
carefully designed and soundly constructed so that
they will not become a hazard under wet, frosty, or
icy conditions.

Garden steps should be constructed with broader
treads and lower risers than those used on steps in-
doors. Because of the greater space available out-
side, such steps can be used to achieve greater safety.
Long flights of steps should be broken up with land-
ings for ease in climbing.

This type of construction requires considerable
experience, and is generally more than the amateur
should undertake by himself.

Ramps are often constructed where the change in
level is gradual. They are easier to climb than steps,
and allow movement of wheelbarrows and garden
equipment from one level to another. If the slope is
too steep, the ramp can be broken at intervals with
steps (a stepped-ramp).

Page 46

DRIVES, GARAGES,

PARKING, and TURNAROUNDS

Location of these elements

must be determined at planning stage

Before locating the house and garage on the prop-
erty, make sure that there is ample room for an ade-
quate driveway and, if possible, a convenient turn-
around.

Plan garage, parking, drive, and turnaround near
the service area and away from the main rooms of
the house. This permits convenient loading and un-
loading, and keeps glare and noise from penetrating
the living areas.

Place these areas between the house and street, if
possible, to reduce paving costs and to prevent the
use of the most desirable part of the property for
this purpose.

Consider the following suggestions when design-
ing and laying out drives and turnarounds.

Driveway

1. Construct the driveway soundly — strong
enough for trucks and wide enough for backing. It
should be wider on curved sections.

2. It should not be winding nor too long. This
wastes usable land, is costly, and makes it difficult
to back out the car. Neither should it be shorter than
the length of the garage.

3. Avoid having to back the car into a busy street.

4. Where possible, eliminate steep slopes and bad
dips at the intersection of the street. In areas where
frost, sleet, or snow occur, the driveway should be
as nearly level as possible.

5. It should be convenient for unloading passen-
gers near the front and rear entrances.

6. It should be well constructed and convenient
for service and delivery trucks.

7. Allow space for parking additional cars so that
they will not interfere with use of the driveway.

8. Provide shade over the parking area. You may
wish to avoid shade trees such as the black walnuts
as they often harbor aphids that produce "honey
dew." This may become more of a nuisance than

heat from the sun. To determine what trees are suit-
able, observe sidewalks and car windshields.

9. Curbs may be needed in the parking area to
keep cars off lawns and plantings. When curbs are
used, the drive should be lowered 3 to 4 inches so
that the top of the curb will be level with the grass or
walk. Adequate drainage must be provided.

10. A curb and walk at the base of a retaining
wall prevent scraping of fenders, and allow ade-
quate space for passengers to get out of the car.

1 1 . Use very low planting or omit plantings and
gateways altogether at the intersection of the street
as they may obscure the view of pedestrians or of
children playing.

12. A straight and level area at least the length
of the car should be constructed in front of the
garage.

13. The driveway may also be designed to serve
as an area for adult games such as badminton or
volleyball.

14. Avoid building on new fill which has not
settled.

15. A good surface which drains away from the
house should be provided.

16. Design the surface against glare and light
reflection by using dark colors and by texturing.

Garage and carport

In some areas of California, only an overhead
cover, or carport, may be necessary to protect the
car against the elements and to shelter passengers
in inclement weather. In many areas, however, a
closed garage may be needed because of damage
to the car from hot sun, blowing sand and dust.
moist, salty air, and coastal fog.

The garage is likely to become a catch-all for
clutter now that most homes no longer contain attics
and basements. To prevent this, separate storage
space should be provided in both carport and garage.

Page 47

A storage unit could be built along one side of a car-
port. In addition to providing extra space, it would
act as a structural element and, perhaps, as a wind-
break.

When planning the house, try to avoid, if possible,
garages with doors opening directly onto the street.
A garage or carport attached to the house is more
convenient and accessible in all weather conditions.
Place it close to the property line unless there is
space for a turnaround.

Avoid the basement garage. This arrangement is
generally unattractive and usually unsatisfactory if
the drive slopes abruptly.

Garages should be large enough so that the car
may enter and leave easily. There should be room
for car doors to swing open wide enough to allow
passengers to get in or out.

It is well to provide hose bibs and a level area in
front of the garage to facilitate washing.

Turnaround

A turnaround or turncourt enables the driver to
enter the street head on, which is much safer and
easier than backing the length of a long drive into a
busy street.

If a turnaround is desired, planning for adequate
space should be one of the prime considerations
when selecting the site. Serious difficulties and an-
noying inconveniences may arise from failure to
consider these problems early in the planning stages.

Allow a straight area of 15 to 20 feet in front of
the garage before beginning a turn. The inside
radius of a turn should be 18 to 20 feet. A driveway
8 feet wide is the minimum for straight sections
where no cars pass. An additional l^/o to 2 feet
should be added to the width of the drive on turns.

As the turncourt is a portion of the service area,
the living area windows should not face it because
the large amount of paving is usually glaring, hot,
and unattractive. A turnaround located at the side of
the property or between house and street saves con-
siderable expense in paving. It should be placed so
that the car is directed away from the house en-
trances and walks when backing, to avoid pedes-
trians, and children at play. Adequate space should
be allowed so that the turnaround will not occupy
the major or most prominent portion of the lot.

The size and construction of the turnaround
should be judged by what vehicles will use it. Often
furniture vans and oil and delivery trucks use the
drive. Therefore, ample turning room and a heavy-
duty road bed should be provided.

Sometimes it may be advisable to locate the turn-
around behind the garage, with garage doors at both
front and rear. Such an arrangement would provide
a sheltered play area.

It is helpful to have the area between car shelter
and house lighted. Lighting should be planned with
two-way switches so that lights may be turned on and
off at both garage and house.

g , Colored line shows area allowed for driveway, turnaround, extra parking, and car shelter. (See plan
OO on the opposite page.)

Page 48

Street

, j Plan of the design shown on facing page. This is a good solution to the problem of providing space for
**/ the automobile in a limited area. Note that wall of the carport is also a storage unit.

Page 49

I'.'i ' i V

I I I ' I I I I ' '

Which terrace will be used more often? Above: This terrace was built up from the garden to the floor
68 ' eve ' °f the house, thus making it easy to move food and furniture from indoors. Below: The same
terrace, at garden level, would necessitate carrying food or moving furniture up and down steps.

Page 50

TERRACES, PORCHES,
and GARDEN SHELTERS

For maximum enjoyment, plan the

pf outdoor rooms" near indoor living areas

Paved areas should be finished early in the con-
struction stages so that the garden may be used while
the landscaping is being completed.

Location. Terraces, porches, and garden shelters
should be designed as integral parts of the house,
and located adjacent to it. They can be made large
enough to permit entertaining. However, such areas
will not be used fully unless they are conveniently
located in relation to the kitchen and living areas
of the house. A terrace placed at the rear of the prop-
erty is not convenient for outdoor living unless it is
equipped with complete kitchen facilities. This is
costly, and is generally not a very desirable arrange-
ment.

Orientation. Porches and terraces facing the
street are expensive because the lack of privacy and
convenience offers little possibility for use. In most
areas of California, terraces should be located on
the south or east sides of the house for year-round
use. In desert areas, a northeast orientation may \>e
preferable. North or northeast terraces are always
cooler in summer when located close to the house.
However, their location may also depend upon local
views, wind direction, and the attaining of privacy.
Generally, if sun is to be enjoyed outdoors in winter,
protection from wind is needed. West exposures are
often unusable in the summer months during the late
afternoon. Privacy, and protection from sun, wind,

i q Terrace constructed with a redwood and concrete grid system needs no reinforcing. Paving only an
*» ' inch below house floor allows easy access.

(Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deering.)

Page 51

«a Left: Terrace and overhead shelter relate house to garden and encourage outdoor living. Right: Open
* " framework in overhead shelter casts shadows on terrace and provides a support for vines.

(Photos by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.)

and rain may be achieved through use of roofing,
lath, canvas, vines, shrubs, and fences. Screening
porches against mosquitoes and other insects may
be advisable in many regions.

Paved areas more usable. A hard paved
area makes a fine surface for children to play on
when the ground is too wet and soft to use. Paved
terraces, if well drained, dry quickly and can be
used soon after a rain. It is recommended that, when-
ever possible, the house be built close to the ground
for easy access to the outdoors. Usually an inch dif-
ference from house to terrace floor will be sufficient
to keep rain out. This permits food to be wheeled
outside instead of carried up and down steps. When
building a terrace for a house with its floor a foot or
more above the ground, the terrace may be raised
close to the floor level. The steps then lead from the
terrace down to the ground, instead of from the
house down to the terrace. This solution is more ex-
pensive, but it makes the terrace more accessible and
usable. Such a porch or terrace should be wide

enough to accommodate more people than just those
in the immediate family.

Use sound construction. A good surface
should be safe, and smooth enough for wheeling
furniture, children's carts and toys, and sometimes
for dancing. Surfaces consisting of loose brick or
broken stone or concrete are always annoying, and
can become a hazard.

Materials. Concrete, stone, asphalt, brick, and
patio tile are among the most satisfactory of the
hard-surface materials. Gravel and tanbark are the
cheapest, but have many limitations. Redwood
rounds and wooden blocks are sometimes used.

Shade and plantings. Terraces and other
paved surfaces need not be hot, glaring, or monot-
onous. Large areas can be left open for plantings of
shade trees, shrubs, groundcovers, or flowers. Also,
many interesting patterns, textures, and colors can
be worked into the design.

(See the following section, "Paving Materials
and Construction Methods.")

Page 52

PAVING MATERIALS and
CONSTRUCTION METHODS

Avoid monotonous surfaces

by varying materials and textures

Paving may be laid in designs, patterns, and tex-
tures which will add color and interest to the garden,
or it may be just a monotonous slab or mass of ma-
terials.

Under any paved area there should be firm, well-
drained soil or rock which will not settle or heave.
All paving must be constructed so that its surface
slopes away from the house and garage for good
drainage.

Consider how the paved area will be used. Those
areas that will be used only for walking or sitting
need not be so strongly constructed as ones that may
be used by automobiles or trucks.

Concrete is considered here first because it is
most widely used and is one of the most satisfactory
paving materials. It has many advantages, such as
withstanding rough treatment and requiring almost
no maintenance. It is difficult for the inexperienced
person to lay because it dries so rapidly. It often
cracks badly when laid in large sections. For this
reason, it is better to use a gridwork of redwood,
consisting of squares or rectangles no larger than 4
to 6 feet. Each section is then small enough so that
any settling or cracking which may take place will
usually follow the pattern line of the grid rather than
show up as a crack in the paving. In this method no

Various types of paving materials can be laid in a gridwork of redwood. Concrete should be at least
71 3 feet square, but squares over 8 feet are hard to handle, and are more likely to crack. Brick and
wood blocks should be laid on a level base of fine sand.

Page 53

. ■

-n Crushed rock, as used on this terrace, is an inexpensive paving material that requires only occa-
' ^ sional raking to maintain. Portable barbecue brazier is convenient and inconspicuous.

(Student Garden, Dept. of Landscape Management, Univ. of Calif., Davis. Photo by Robert Loranger. Design by Robert B. Deering.)

steel reinforcing is necessary, and the wooden grid
can be left embedded in the concrete. This also re-
sults in a more interesting design. The redwood
should be treated with a good wood preservative
before it is laid.

Other methods consist of pouring small slabs in-
dividually and then removing the forms after set-
ting. Pouring in small sections makes it much easier
for the homeowner to handle the material and to do
a square or two when he has time.

Concrete can be colored either by using prepared
colored pigments in powdered form in the top finish
surface before the material sets, or by staining after
it has hardened. It can also be made more interesting
by exposing the rock pebbles, a method called "ex-
posed aggregate." This is done by embedding the
type of pebble desired in the top surface and then
brushing with a stiff brush and washing with water
before it sets. This reduces glare, makes a more inter-
esting surface, and lessens the danger of a slippery
surface when wet or frosty.

Brick paving is rich in color, pattern, and texture,
and offers unlimited possibilities in design. Many
colors are available, ranging from red to pink, and
gray to yellow. Brick can be laid either in sand or
in mortar. It is fun to lay, and the work can be done
a little at a time. If a poor job is done, when laying
brick in sand, the section can easily be relaid — an
advantage over concrete or laying bricks in mortar.
Special hard-burned or "face brick" should be used
for paving since it can withstand diversified weather
conditions.

Method of laying. The soil should be well
drained to keep the walk from lifting when the
ground becomes saturated and swells from an excess
of water or from frost action. When laying brick on
sand, redwood edging strips 2 by 4 inches, called
"header boards," should be used to keep the bricks
from shifting. These boards should be staked and
nailed to prevent lifting. A well-tamped cushion of
sand about V2 inch thick should be evenly spread
before the brick is laid. It can be raised slightly in

Page 54

the center to give better drainage. Sand is then
brushed over the bricks to fill in between the joints.

Tile. Paving with tile is much the same as with
brick. However, tile works best if laid on a concrete
base, with mortared joints to prevent movement and
cracking. It may also be laid successfully over
wooden floors, porches, and steps.

Patio tile is generally % inch thick, and is man-
ufactured in many shapes, sizes, and in colors sim-
ilar to those of brick.

Flagstone. Cut stone materials make excellent
paved surfaces, but, like all construction materials,
they are expensive. Also, the cost of cutting and the
labor involved in laying stone may be prohibitively
high.

Flagstone, to look best, should be cut into rec-
tangular shapes; irregular pieces generally produce
a confusing and cluttered effect, especially if laid
by an inexperienced person.

Care should be taken in laying stone to see that no
corners or edges protrude to cause accidents. Stone
can be laid on a well-tamped bed of sand, but a con-
crete base with mortared joints is preferable.

Wood. There are many ways to use wood as
paving. Always use redwood as it is resistant to rot
and decay. Redwood used as decking also works
well. The lasting qualities can be prolonged by use
of creosote, pentachlorophenol (Penta), and other
wood preservatives. Any nails used should be alumi-
num or galvanized iron to prevent rusting and
staining.

Redwood paving blocks make a satisfactory sur-
face when laid on sand. In hot areas they check or
crack badly except when used in shady, moist loca-
tions. Redwood log slices or "redwood rounds" have
been used satisfactorily for both paving and step
construction.

The thick bark of redwood has occasionally been
tried as a paving material by sawing it in sections
about 8 inches long and standing these sections up
vertically on a sand base. This paving has a soft,
carpetlike feeling underfoot.

Asphalt and related products. Terraces and
patios seldom have been constructed of asphalt and
related products in the warmer regions of California
because the dark surfaces absorb large quantities of
heat and become too soft for the legs of garden fur-
niture and for walking on. Asphalt has proved satis-
factory in shady locations, in cooler areas, and for
paving of drives and turnarounds. Today, however,
new asphaltic products have been developed which
can be mixed with water. They soften less in hot

weather and are easier and less expensive for the
homeowner to lay than is concrete.

Three types of asphalt are available. ( See

references to this section, p. 69.)

1 . Hot mixtures are generally used for highways,
whereas the cold mixes are more suitable for drive-
ways and turnarounds. The cold method is less costly
because less equipment is required to lay it. How-
ever, heavy rolling machinery is needed for both
methods.

2. Another method is called "cut back" — a cold
method. It is a combination of heavy asphalt and a
thinner which is handled as a fluid and used to pene-
trate a crushed rock and gravel surface; it can also
be applied as a mix. The thinner evaporates, leaving
a firm asphaltic mixture. This is top-dressed with
fine gravel, and rolled. This is the method generally
used for driveway construction.

3. Among the new materials for driveways, turn-
arounds, tennis courts, walks, and terrace paving is
the emulsified asphalt which is mixed with water
and sand or soil. When the water evaporates, a hard
surface results. This material can also be obtained
for walks and terraces in a form which includes a
complete mixture of sand and asphalt and requires
only the addition of water. A hard surface can be
obtained by using a small quantity of cement in the
mix. If a firm base and good drainage are provided,
only V'l inch of material is required. It is best when
laid inside a redwood grid system such as that sug-
gested for concrete. Small areas can be done more
easily than large ones. A satisfactory finish can be
obtained by troweling.

Because less is required, water-mix asphalt is one
of the least expensive and easiest to lay of the hard
paving materials.

Gravel and crushed rock. Gravel and
crushed rock are among the most inexpensive to use.
There are many grades, sizes, and textures, as well
as a variety of colors ranging from red, green, and
white, through the grays, to black. Combinations of
not too great contrast make interesting patterns.

Gravel should be used on relatively level areas
as washing frequently occurs on steep slopes. Header
boards or curbs of some sort can be used to help keep
gravel off lawns and other areas.

Loose or coarse material may be somewhat hard
to walk on, and fine gravel may track inside and onto
turf areas from wet or muddy shoes. An average
grade of gravel or crushed rock is not difficult to
walk on, and tracks little. Sufficient dust or clay
mixed with the gravel or crushed rock will act as a
binding material and will hold it in place.

Page 55

Left: Brick laid flush with the terrace sur-
73 * ace results in an interesting coping around
this pool.

(Photo by Mason Weymouth. Geraldine Scott, Landscape
Architect.)

Below: A circular pool of concrete and
74 pebble mosaic is not only cool, but also
colorful.

(Photo by Douglas Baylis, Landscape Architect. Pool by
Florence Swift.)

WATER in the GARDEN

A pool or fountain should contribute to

the over-all garden design, but never dominate it

Today, as in the past, water is the center of inter-
est in regions where the climate is dry. In areas of
more abundant moisture, the problem of water in
the garden is of less concern.

Psychologically, a pool or fountain gives a feeling
of coolness and comfort in our warm, dry valley and
desert sections, while in the cooler coastal areas this
is less essential.

To be effective, water that is confined in a pool
or fountain must be properly located in the garden.

It should be an integral part of the garden design,
and not a dominant element. If placed in the center
of a small garden, it may divide the usable space so
completely that no area is left for the activities of
the family. Also, water should not be placed so that

it blocks a route through the garden, thereby dis-
rupting the easy flow of traffic from one place to
another.

The form and shape of a pool should be in keeping
with the garden design. The simple pool with straight
sides (not necessarily parallel) is the least expen-
sive and least difficult to construct.

Pools may be built so that none of the container
shows, or so that a wide border or coping flush with
the ground is visible. Raising the water above the
surface of the ground, in a container built to form
a wall or seat, is also effective.

Water plants. Small pools can be greatly en-
hanced by the judicious selection of a few aquatic
plant materials. Often overplanting produces a cover

j r Even the simplest pool, if well placed and combined with good planting, will add pleasure to outdoor
'^ living for children.

(Marin County, Calif. Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects. Courtesy American Home Magazine.)

over the entire surface of the water, thus defeating
its purpose.

Aquatic plants fall into three general groups:
those which grow entirely beneath the surface; those
which have their roots and stems beneath the surface,
with the leaves floating on top; and those which have
roots growing in water, and leaves and stems grow-
ing above.

The waterlily, lotus, water hyacinth, and papyrus
are all suitable for the small pool. Aquatic plants
are usually handled only by nurseries specializing
in this type of material.

Swimming Pools

Because a swimming pool occupies so much space,
it must be placed in the garden with care, so that it
does not spoil the use of the remaining area.

Most homeowners would do well to have experts
build their swimming pool since considerable knowl-
edge of construction methods and the use of equip-
ment is necessary. However, small, inexpensive
pools have been built of concrete by inexperienced
persons, and have often proved quite satisfactory.

Construction. Commercially constructed swim-
ming pools, where the Gunite or pneumatically ap-
plied concrete method is employed, may be easier
to build if they have rounded sides and bottoms.

A great variety of materials may be used. Poured
concrete has been widely used, and is satisfactory

for permanent pool construction. Small pools of con-
crete block are quite inexpensive. However, specific
construction methods must be followed with larger
ones. Steel and stainless steel are also available.
Combinations of concrete and materials such as
brick and tile, used for facing, are attractive. A rela-
tively inexpensive plastic swimming pool has re-
cently been developed.

Safety. The safety factor is very important. Even
the smallest pool may become a hazard to small chil-
dren. Fences around pools generally are not attrac-
tive, and the advisability of installing a pool should
be carefully considered if fencing will be necessary.
Sometimes an entire garden may be fenced to give
the necessary protection. Covers may be used instead
of fences, but they, too, seldom add to the beauty.
Plastic covers for swimming pools are available.
These will support the weight of a person, and keep
refuse out. However, covering a pool with any ma-
terial, when it is not in use, generally spoils the
whole effect.

Sanitation. The fact that swimming pools re-
quire continual maintenance in addition to their ini-
tial cost should not be overlooked. Sanitation and
cleaning are two important factors to be considered.
Swimming pools should be constructed with ade-
quate filter systems. Even when this is done, frequent
cleaning is necessary, and there must be provision
for occasional drainage.

Page 58

GARDEN FURNITURE

Functional pieces of good design

are available in many colors and materials

Relaxation and comfort were of little concern
when gardens were designed primarily for display
and exhibition. Their marble and stone benches were
intended for ornamentation. Today, however, the
garden is used almost like another room. Its furni-
ture should be as comfortable as that used indoors.

Durability. Outdoor furniture must be durable,
to withstand being moved about, and capable of
standing up under varying weather conditions.
Among the materials that can withstand this kind of
treatment are duck, fiberglass and plastic, nylon,
and string or cord.

Relate the colors of the garden furniture to those
used inside the house, especially if the garden is
visible from indoors. Use colors that will not fade
in hot sun nor run when wet. Duck in vat-dyed blues
and greens fades less readily than does that in reds
or yellows. The woven vinyl plastics last longer than
duck and hold colors better, but are more expensive.
There are many interesting colors in both plastics
and duck in addition to the standard blues and greens
so commonly found. These include brown, black,
turquoise, terra cotta, and mulberry.

Filling. Kapok is better than cotton, for filling
material, because it returns to its original shape
after being wet, whereas cotton does not. Foam rub-
ber is very satisfactory, but should be used only for
porch furniture or where there is shade, as the hot
sun causes it to deteriorate.

Construction materials. Most types of wood
will tolerate varying conditions of heat and mois-
ture. Teak and redwood are best, and require no
paint. Teak is expensive, but weathers well and does
not splinter readily. Redwood is light but sometimes
bulky, and often splinters. Pine and Douglas fir are
satisfactory if protected by a wood preservative.

Bamboo, wicker, and reed furniture should be
used in somewhat protected places, such as porches
or sheltered terraces. However, these materials are
light in weight and may be moved easily if necessary.

Bronze, aluminum, and magnesium generally
withstand all types of weather conditions; iron and
steel, on the other hand, need to be painted to prevent

rusting. In coastal areas where moist, salty air is
prevalent, the rustproof metals are best.

New molded chairs of plastic, incorporating
spun glass, are now available. They are generally
sold for indoor purposes, but are very satisfactory
when used outside.

Movability. Unless it is built-in, most garden
furniture should be easy to move. Lightweight fur-
niture of aluminum and magnesium is inexpensive,
less bulky, and does not take up so much space as
the standard type of garden furniture. Iron-framed
furniture also has these advantages, but most cast
iron furniture is usually bulky, heavy, and too
highly ornamented for garden use.

Cleaning. Choose materials that do not stain
readily and that are easy to clean. Most plastic-
covered furniture can be cleaned with soap and
water. Plastic covers may be placed over furniture
to protect it when not in use.

Garden tables should have tops that can be washed
or cleaned with the garden hose without damage to
the surface. Glass, stone, terrazzo slabs, or redAvood
make durable table tops.

yg Spun glass and plastic chair is a practical addi-
' O tion to the outdoor living room.

(Photo courtesy Herman Miller Furniture Co., Los Angeles.
Chair by Charles Eames.)

Page 59

Practical, weather-resistant dining table and

sw rrgtucui, weuinen

* * chairs of redwood.

(Photo courtesy California Redwood Association. Furniture
from Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.)

70 Furniture for contemporary gardens:

A Cord and metal chairs are simple in de-
sign.

B Glass-topped table combines nicely with
cord and metal lounge.

(Photos A and B courtesy Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills,
Calif.)

C Weatherproof chair comes in many colors.

(Photo courtesy Herman Miller Furniture Co., Los Angeles.
Chair and table by Charles Eames.)

D Built-in bench for a permanent garden.

(Palo Alto, Calif. Photo by Shan Stewart. Geraldine Scott,
Landscape Architect.)

E Low chairs and coffee table of redwood.

(Photo courtesy Redwood Empire Association. Furniture from
Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.)

Page 60

F Glass-topped coffee table usable outdoors
or in.

(Van Keppel-Green, Beverly Hills, Calif.)

G Glass dining table.

(Photo courtesy Armin Richter Interiors, La Jolla, Calif.

H Wicker and iron chair is good in any
garden.

(Reprinted from House and Garden. Copyright 1951, The
Conde Nast Publications, Inc. Chair by John B. Salterini, New
York.)

These thin wooden "nest" tables stack
easily.

(Photo courtesy Knoll Associates Inc. Tables by Abel
Sorensen.)

J Canvas cover comes in many colors, fits
over iron frame of "African campaign chair."

(Davis, Calif. Photo by Robert Loranger. Garden design by
Robert B. Deering.)

Page 61

jq The outdoor eating area should be handy to the kitchen and living room, and should have adequate
' ' protection from wind and from public view.

qa This barbecue brazier is light, movable, and well designed. A unit of this type is especially good for

use in a small garden

(Courtesy "Hawk House," Los AngeJes, Calif.)

Page 62

OUTDOOR COOKING and EATING

Nearness to the kitchen is the
main factor in outdoor entertaining

The development of "patio living" in California
has brought about considerable interest in outdoor
cooking and eating. While some like to prepare part
or all the food indoors and serve it outside, many
like to cook over a garden fireplace or grill.

Location. The outdoor eating area should be lo-
cated near the kitchen because much of the food and
equipment is prepared and stored there. Storage
should be provided for such things as cooking equip-
ment, extra chairs and tables, wood, and charcoal.
Provision for garbage and waste disposal nearby is
always necessary. The area should be conveniently
reached from the house. Steps greatly discourage the
serving of food outside. The ideal relationship is one
in which house and terrace floor levels are nearly
the same so that a cart or utility table can easily be
wheeled back and forth.

A water supply, and electric outlets for lighting,
a hot plate, and radio or phonograph should be pro-
vided.

Protection. In many sections of California wind
is an important factor in planning space for eating
in the garden. The direction of prevailing wind
should be carefully considered when choosing the
site and selecting the type of cooking unit. (See
"Controlling the Garden Climate," p. 25.)

In other areas, provision for shade may be of
main importance. Screening provides protection
from insects and, in many instances, can make a
porch or terrace more enjoyable for outdoor eating.

Types of units. In deciding on an outdoor cook-
ing unit, the homeowner should consider whether its
appearance will detract from the beauty of the
garden.

Two types of cooking units are available. One is
portable, and usually made of steel. The other is
stationary, and may be made of concrete, brick, tile,
stone, or other masonry materials, and can generally
be constructed by an amateur.

Each unit has two parts — a firebox and a grill.
Grills that can be raised or lowered are most satis-
factory. Enclosed units also need some sort of draft
openings.

Small, light barbecue units are relatively inex-
pensive, less conspicuous and unsightly than larger
ones, take up less space, and are portable. These may
be moved for better draft or for smoke control, and
may be stored when not in use.

Fire regulations. Check local fire regulations
before deciding on any type of outdoor cooking unit.
Many cities have strict requirements regarding con-
struction of fireplaces, spark arrestors, and their lo-
cation under trees. If open fires are prohibited,
electric hot plates or gas burners may be used.

Page 63

Right: This type of outdoor lighting unit is
33 convenient because it can be placed wherever
light is needed in the garden.

(Courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.)

. Below: After-dark enjoyment of this garden
O^ is made possible by subtle use of lighting.

(Carmel, Calif. Photo by Roger Sturtevant. Eckbo, Royston
and Williams, Landscape Architects. Henry Hill, Architect.)

Page 64

LIGHTING the GARDEN

Outdoor lighting can be

as effective as that used indoors

Use of the garden can be extended beyond the
daylight hours by artificial lighting. In this way, out-
door sports, such as tennis, badminton, croquet, and
lawn bowling may be enjoyed after dark.

In homes that have large glass areas which do not
face the street, the lighted garden can be enjoyed
from within when the weather becomes too cool for
outside activities.

Movable fixtures are handy for lighting sec-
tions of the garden which have seasonal interest. For

example, if you have an ornamental tree or flowering
shrub that is particularly attractive at certain times
of the year, it can be highlighted by focusing a flood-
light or spotlight on it during the period when it is
at its best.

Fixed equipment may be used to light up per-
manently good features of the garden that are always
worth emphasizing, such as a large tree, a garden
shelter, or a pleasing view.

Keep in mind that artificial light completely

*■ Artificial lighting focuses attention on special points of interest in the garden, resulting in unusual
OJ effects not apparent under natural light.

(Photo by M. Halberstadt. Eckbo, Royston and Williams, Landscape Architects.)

Page 65

changes the appearance of the garden. The color of
flowers becomes more brilliant, and the foliage takes
on a brighter green in contrast to the blackness of
the night. Only white lights should be used, as col-
ored bulbs produce unnatural effects which gener-
ally are not pleasing.

Lighting of the driveway, steps, and walks helps
prevent accidents and keeps prowlers away.

Waterproof equipment. Waterproof outlet
boxes, and underground, lead or heavy-duty, water-
proof rubber cable are essential. The lighting fix-
ture itself should also be waterproof. Fixtures are
made with clamps for fastening to tree branches, or
with metal stakes which can be pushed into the
ground. Special types are available for underwater
use to light small pools, swimming pools, and
fountains.

Equipment need not be visible. It may be con-
cealed by placing it beneath shrubbery and painting
with flat, natural gray-green finishes.

q/ A permanent outdoor lighting unit for the
00 garden.

(Courtesy Better Homes and Gardens Magazine.)

a 7 The front of these storage units faces the service area and is convenient for unloading materials di-
0* rectly where they will be used. The units are staggered to avoid the necessity of opening gates.

STORAGE for TOOLS and EQUIPMENT

Every home has a storage problem, but

wise planning keeps it from becoming a nuisance

Neatness is one of the primary essentials for a
good garden. The first step in achieving it is to pro-
vide adequate and convenient storage space. Do not
depend upon the garage as a catch-all for garden
equipment plus everything which, in the past, used
to accumulate in the attic or basement.

Before designing any storage unit, study carefully
what will be stored in it. In this way, you can elimi-
nate waste space, yet have enough for convenient
use. (People tend to save useless articles when more
space than necessary is available.) Garden storage
space should be planned for three general categories
of items. Most families have some or all of the fol-
lowing:

Garden tools and equipment

Lawn mower Watering can

Wheelbarrow Sprayer and duster

Hose and hose reels Buckets

Hoes, rakes, forks Small tools

Shovels, spades, axe Garden line

Supplies

Soils, sand, peat

Fertilizers

Leaf mold, manure

Sprays and dusts

Flats

Miscellaneous items

Bicycles, tricycles
Baseballs and bats
Wagons
Racquets
Garden furniture

Flower pots

Seeds and labels

Stakes

Wire

Twine

Step ladder
Lumber
Paint, brushes
Newspapers, magazines

Convenience. Build for convenience in unload-
ing. The storage units should be designed as an in-
tegral part of the service area to keep all clutter in
one place and to allow heavy or bulky materials to be
unloaded directly where they will be used. The backs
of the units can screen the service area from the liv-
ing areas of the garden.

Weatherproofing of some spaces is important to
keep such items as fertilizers and dusts from becom-
ing damp, and tools and equipment from rusting.

qa Back view of storage units shown on opposite page. This side of the units faces the living area of the
OO garden and screens off an undesirable view of the service area.

(Photos by Maynard Parker. Courtesy House Beautiful Magazine. Thomas D. Church, Landscape Architect.)

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