.j^t^^f!!^. 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
THE 
 
 LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 , k Practical and Illustrated Guide to the 
 Extensive but little-known District of the Broads of 
 Norfolk and Suffolk, 
 
 Written for the use of alt who take an interest in one of the Quaintest and 
 
 most Old- World parts of England, either from an Archceological, 
 
 Historical, Picturesque, or Sporting point of view. 
 
 BY 
 
 ERNEST R. SUFFLING. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED EDITION, 
 
 JV/TH LARGE COLOURED MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 
 
 1887. 
 
LONDON : 
 PRINTED BY A. BRADLEY, 170, STRAND, W.C. 
 

 PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. 
 
 While inditing the following pages, I have borne in 
 mind the well-known quotation from our great poet: — 
 
 To gild refined gold, to paint the lily, 
 To throw a perfume on the violet, .... 
 Is wasteful and ridiculous excess. 
 
 — King John ; 
 
 which I consider a most appropriate motto to re- 
 member while writing upon the Rivers and Broads 
 of Norfolk. The glorious summer sun does all the 
 gilding, and Nature all the painting and perfuming 
 that is requisite, without any aid from my pen. I 
 have, therefore, simply shown the Broads as they 
 really are, without any endeavour to extol their 
 varied beauties, or to add charms of imagination, 
 when they may be discovered in reality by a brief 
 visit. 
 
 It has been my endeavour to take the reader over 
 the principal navigable portions of the " Three 
 Rivers " — the Bure, the Waveney. and the Yare — ■ 
 
 M358754 
 
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. 
 
 and upon all the Broads of any extent or importance ; 
 and, en passant^ I have glanced at the various objects 
 of importance on each bank. Pains have been taken 
 to point out the chief ecclesiastical features, as in 
 this respect Norfolk is peculiarly endowed. Having 
 aimed solely at producing a plain, unvarnished guide, 
 I trust that my effort may prove successful. 
 
 Inaccuracies will occasionally creep in, despite one's 
 utmost care, and should my readers discover any, I 
 shall esteem it a favour if they will point them out 
 to me. 
 
 ERNEST R. SUFFLING. 
 
 Blomjield Lodge, Portsdown Road, 
 London, fV., 
 July, 1885. 
 
 ■ ? -»" Bi ' 
 
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 The rapid sale of the First and Unillustrated Edition 
 has encouraged me to devote more time to the com- 
 pilation of this Second, and Illustrated, Edition of the 
 '* Land of the Broads." It now appears more than 
 trebled in size, and, I trust, in interest, as I have 
 aimed at keeping up its character of a practical 
 guide. The whole v^rork has been re-written, and a 
 larger tour of the district taken, embracing some 
 fifty miles more of rivers, and many more villages. 
 
 The Illustrations are truthful representations of 
 places and things seen in the Broad District, as they 
 were, with a few exceptions, either " sketched or 
 photographed on the spot. Chapters have been 
 added on the City of Norwich ; others describing the 
 Fish and their mode of capture ; the Dialect and 
 Characteristics of the Natives ; the Broads at various 
 Seasons, and a great deal more — all of a practical 
 nature. By letting my pen run free with anecdotes, 
 songs of the fens, local tales, and traditions, I might 
 
VI PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 have made the present volume a very substantial 
 tome, but have refrained from doing so, as these 
 things, although extremely interesting, are not, per- 
 haps, what my worthy publisher desires — ''a. practical 
 guide only." 
 
 The Map may be thoroughly relied upon. Small 
 parties who, dispensing with the aid of a man, are 
 desirous of themselves navigating the 300 miles of 
 navigable rivers in th^ district, will find it indispens- 
 able, every village, bridge, stream. Broad, or spot 
 worth mention, being clearly shown upon it. 
 
 As in the First Edition, I will ask readers who 
 may find any inaccuracies to be kind enough to point 
 them out to me, as it is only by these little blunders 
 being noticed that a perfectly accurate guide can be 
 obtained. Although a Norfolk man, and a native of 
 the Broad district, it is impossible to be infallible 
 in everything appertaining to this large tract of 
 country. Only one or two errors have been pointed 
 out in the First Edition, and these have now been 
 corrected. 
 
 ERNEST R. SUFFLING. 
 
 Blomjield Lodge, Portsdown Road, 
 London, W., 
 May, 1887. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IX. 
 
 X. 
 
 XL 
 
 XII. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 XV. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Introductory 
 
 Preparations for the Trip 
 
 Yarmouth to Lowestoft . 
 
 Lowestoft to Norwich 
 
 A Ramble through Norwich 
 
 Norwich to Yarmouth 
 
 Up the Bure to Acle Bridge 
 
 ACLE TO AYLSHAM 
 
 Up the Ant, to Barton and 
 Broads .... 
 
 Stalham 
 
 The Ant, to North Walsham and Cromer 
 
 Thurne Mouth, to Hickling, Martham, &c 
 
 Commissariat Depots. 
 
 The Broad District in Spring 
 
 The Broad District in Summer 
 
 The Broad District in Autumn 
 
 The Broad District in Winter 
 
 The Characteristics and Dialect of East 
 Norfolk Natives 
 
 II 
 
 24 
 
 49 
 69 
 
 97 
 112 
 120 
 
 150 
 
 177 
 
 193 
 205 
 209 
 218 
 225 
 231 
 
 240 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 XVIII. The Fish of the Broads, and how to 
 
 Catch them 278 
 
 XIX. Table of Distances from Yarmouth Bridge 310 
 
 XX. Table of Tides, &c 314 
 
 XXI. Table of Carriers from Yarmouth . . 315 
 
THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 TRIANGLE, having the coast for its base 
 (Lowestoft at the left, and Palling at the 
 :^P't^ right angle), with Norwich at its apex, will 
 contain nearly the whole of the Broad district, with 
 its 5000 acres of lakes and Broads, and 200 miles of 
 navigable river. In these, say, 250 square miles, may 
 be found, during a holiday trip, delightful occupation 
 for seekers of "fresh scenes and pastures new." For 
 the angler, such sport awaits him as he cannot obtain 
 elsewhere, as the takes of fish, at certain times and 
 places, are simply extraordinary, especially of the 
 coarser kinds of fish, such as bream, pike, &c. He 
 may choose for his fishing-ground water either deep 
 or fleet, running or still, clear or obscured, with the 
 assurance that he will not go away either empty- 
 handed or disappointed. 
 
THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 For the yachtsman — Where in England can he find 
 greater scope for his hobby than on these splendid 
 stretches of water? He may take his choice from 
 almost every rig conceivable — cutter, yawl, lugger, 
 Bermudan, schooner, or lateen ; and for sailing-masters 
 the wherry-men cannot be excelled — so that, for those 
 who wish to learn to sail a boat, a capital opportunity 
 offers. For a study of quaintness, both in language 
 and ideas, and also in manners, the wherryman may 
 be interviewed with profit. 
 
 The artist may find anywhere, everywhere, pictures 
 ready for his canvas, of scenery that is peculiar to 
 Norfolk. There is no need to go to Holland for a 
 sketching-ground, for here it is within four hours of 
 London. Here are the flat, green plains, with the 
 river simply kept within bounds by its banks, and 
 being in many places 2ft. above the field through 
 which it winds. Here are the windmills and wherries, 
 the red and white cattle, and picturesque peasantry, 
 simply waiting to be transferred to canvas. Where 
 out of Holland can a more Flemish scene be found 
 than the tree-planted Quay at Yarmouth ? 
 
 To the archaeologist and searcher into things ecclesi- 
 astic, there are no end of churches, priories, castles, 
 halls, and old buildings, which will afford him a vast 
 fund of delightful research. The architect should not, 
 therefore, neglect to bring his sketch-book with him, 
 for he may take it back full of odd fancies and 
 curiosities of ages long gone by. 
 
 To the entomologist, ornithologist, and botaniet, I 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 would say, *' By all means take your holiday here, for 
 you may bring back with you specimens wherewith 
 to beguile many a long winter's evening with your 
 favourite pursuit. For butterflies, birds, and plants, 
 this is a perfect El Dorado.'^ 
 
 To the poet, this is a land of . But there ! I 
 
 will leave him to see for himself. The beautiful, 
 secluded scenery will supply him with themes galore 
 for his fanciful imagination. 
 
 For the robust man, the Broad district is a para- 
 dise ; and to the weakly, here is a physician in the 
 balmy and pure atmosphere, by which he may become 
 in a short time quite strong again, and return home, 
 at the conclusion of his holiday, with such increased 
 vigour as to make his butcher and baker rejoice at 
 the abnormal increase in his appetite. 
 
 The general tourist, who is nothing in particular, 
 may while away the longest summer day in perfect 
 happiness, and at small cost, for very little money 
 can be spent by the most extravagant, as many of 
 the villages possess only a single shop, which, how- 
 ever, seems to contain everything, from a pickaxe to 
 a rasher of rusty bacon. 
 
 Now, after this long flight, let us descend to a 
 few dry, tangible facts regarding the district. 
 
 The chmate of Norfolk is exceedingly dry ; in fact, 
 the rainfall per annum does not exceed 24in., whereas 
 the average for the whole of England is about 36in. 
 In Cumberland and Westmoreland the annual fall 
 exceeds yoin. On the score of dryness overhead, 
 
 B 2 
 
4 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 therefore, the tourist has nothing to fear ; for, although 
 all is water beneath, very little moisture comes from 
 the clouds above, in comparison to other holiday re- 
 sorts in Great Britain. This is, I believe, partly on 
 account of the flatness of the county, and partly by 
 reason of its extreme eastern position, many of the 
 rain-clouds having exhausted themselves while tra- 
 velling from the West of England, before reaching 
 Norfolk. Storms and tempests occur rather oftener 
 than in less level districts, and are very violent, but 
 usually of short duration. 
 
 The rabbit is an object of considerable importance 
 here, as, from their great numbers on the warrens, 
 there is a large trade done with the London market. 
 Some of these warrens are of large extent, and teeming 
 with these pretty but destructive little animals. The 
 principal warrens in the district are at Horsey and 
 Winterton on the coast. Among the birds, several 
 rare and curious species are to be found. The long- 
 winged owl, the most destructive of his tribe, and 
 that singular species of the sandpiper, Tringa pugnax, 
 are still to be seen ; the male birds are called ruffs, 
 and the females reeves. 
 
 The churches of this county are worthy of especial 
 attention, many of them being exceedingly old, dating 
 as far back as the twelfth century. To the student 
 of the various styles of architecture there is an ample 
 field for exploration, as the different churches will 
 take him from the twelfth, through the thirteenth, 
 fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries — just the period 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 when ecclesiastical architecture was at its best. Some 
 fine sculptured tombs with recumbent figures will be 
 found, as also many splendid examples of wood- 
 carving, numbers of churches still retaining their 
 ancient oak chancel-screens and stalls of intricate 
 carved work. Relics of all kinds may be met with — 
 curious coffins_, weapons that have been dug up, hour- 
 glasses, ancient books, wall paintings, keys, &c. It 
 is also remarkable that many of the registers, still 
 in a good state of preservation, date as far back as 
 A.D. 1500, or nearly 400 years. 
 
 I would particularly call attention to the Round 
 Towers to be found in several parishes, and which 
 are ascribed to the Saxon or Danish period : many 
 of them were, after the Norman Conquest, sur- 
 mounted by an octagonal upper storey. Most of the 
 Norfolk churches are constructed of flint, as very 
 little building stone is found in the county, except in 
 the western division. 
 
 Many brasses will be found in the churches, to 
 which access may be obtained, and a rubbing taken. 
 All that is required in the shape of materials is a 
 large sheet of rather thin white paper and a piece of 
 heel-ball, which may be purchased at any bootmaker^s 
 shop. Simply fasten the paper over the brass, with 
 pins, which should be stuck in the crack between 
 the edge of the plate and the stone surrounding ; 
 then rub the heel-ball gently over the surface, when 
 the impression will appear in black and white on 
 the paper. A roll of "lining paper," 12yds. long 
 
THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 and 22in. wide, may be purchased at any paper- 
 hanger's shop in town, for about eightpence, and is of 
 just the required thickness for taking perfect rubbings. 
 Persons fond of epitaph-hunting will be amply re- 
 paid by a stroll through some of the churchyards, and 
 will meet with many exceedingly queer and quaint 
 verses. A good plan is to inquire of the sexton 
 or his wife — who usually reside very close to the 
 churches under their care — what of note is to be 
 seen in the church or its burial-ground. The sexton 
 of Martham Church has some printed cards with the 
 inscription from the grave of a person buried there, 
 which I believe is the record of a sad event which 
 took place many years since through the accidental 
 marriage of very close relations — mother and son. It 
 reads as follows : — 
 
 Here Lyeth ye Body of 
 
 Christopher Burrancy 
 Who departed this hfe 
 
 ye 1 8 day of October 
 
 Anno Domini 1730 
 Aged 59 years 
 
 And thus lyes Alice 
 
 Who by her life 
 Was my sister, my mistress 
 My mother & my wife 
 Died 
 Febr ye 12. 1729. 
 
 The son was sent to Australia when very young ; 
 came back to Yarmouth, and, hearing that a man 
 was required to work on a farm at Martham, obtained 
 the situation, and, after a few years, married the lady 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 proprietor. Years after, a birthmark was the means 
 of discovering the relationship. The mother died 
 raving mad, and was quickly followed by her son.^ 
 
 Prehistoric remains are continually coming to light, 
 especially along the coast, and these either go to en- 
 rich the collections of private persons, or are added 
 to the already large store of them at the public mu- 
 seum, Norwich. Of animal remains, may be noted, 
 bones of those gigantic mammals, the mastodon {Ar- 
 vancusis), Elephas meridionalis, and Elephas anti- 
 quus ; as also of the rhinoceros, hippopotamus, red 
 and roe deer, stag, wild ox, and even of the beaver. 
 In nearly every part of the county, discoveries have 
 been made connected with the Stone Age. The 
 earlier portion of that age, called the Palaeolithic 
 period, is represented by instruments of chipped stone 
 of various shapes and sizes, usually of an oval or 
 pointed form. These implements bear no sign of 
 polishing, or other attempt at smoothness of surface. 
 Those of a later period, called the Neolithic Stone 
 Age, show evident signs of rubbing and polishing in 
 order to give them more symmetry and keenness. 
 
 A favourable time for relic-hunting is immediately 
 after a strong north-west gale. When the wind is in 
 that quarter, with a heavy sea on, masses of the cliff 
 are undermined, and huge pieces, falling upon the 
 beach, are swept away by the surf. This fall of the 
 face of the cliff frequently leaves relics of various 
 
 * I find the stone has been removed to the tower, and is covered by 
 the organ. 
 
8 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 kinds exposed to view ; and persons of keen eyesight 
 and great perseverance have occasionally made very 
 valuable discoveries in consequence. 
 
 Barrows and tumuli are to be seen near Attle- 
 borough, Weeting, Sporle, Pentney, North Walsham, 
 and other places. A barrow at a place called 
 " Grimes' Graves," Weeting, was opened by Canon 
 Greenwell in 1870, and some ancient tools, made of 
 deerhorn, discovered. The Canon says : "It was a 
 most impressive sight, and one never to be forgotten, 
 to look, it may be after a lapse of 3000 years, upon 
 a piece of work yet unfinished, with the tools of the 
 workmen still lying as they had been left many 
 centuries before.'' Some of these implements — 
 picks, &c. — still retained upon their chalky incrus- 
 tation the exact impressions of the fingers of these 
 Ancient Britons. 
 
 When trawling along the coast, the fishermen fre- 
 quently bring up in their nets the fossilised remains 
 of large mammals ; of these, the late Rev. Jas. Layton 
 formed a very fine collection, which may be seen at 
 the British Museum. 
 
 The villages will be found very much scattered, 
 and only here and there will a fair-sized town be 
 found. I think that, excepting Norwich, Yarmouth, 
 and King's Lynn, no other town of 5000 inhabitants 
 is to be met with in the whole county. Indeed, the 
 towns containing 3000 inhabitants may be counted on 
 the fingers of the two hands. The county, in 1881, 
 contained 444,749 persons, spread over 1,356,173 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 9 
 
 acres, giving just three acres to each individual — a 
 very sparse population indeed. Contrast this with 
 Lancashire and its 1,208,154 acres and 3,454,541 in- 
 habitants, or three persons to each acre. On the 
 score of quietness the tourist may, therefore, make 
 his mind easy, as he will be ''far from the madding 
 crowd." 
 
 I would like to point out to the etymologist that, 
 if he keeps his ears open when talking with the 
 country people, he will hear many pure Saxon words 
 used, which are quite obsolete among town folk or 
 educated persons. Thus, a gift is a 'Margesse,'' a house- 
 cloth a " dwile," to raise a thing is to " hain " it, a 
 lane is a " loke," an unmarried girl is a '' mawther," 
 and a " dickey," although it has a melodious voice, 
 is not a bird — it is a donkey. 
 
 The '' natives " are a fine race, usually with the 
 flaxen or tawny beards, fair skin, straight noses, and 
 blue eyes characteristic of the Norse or Danish type. 
 They are noted for their hardihood and endurance, 
 most of them leading a life that compels them to be 
 in the pure, bracing air a great part of their time, as 
 they are mostly either agricultural or seafaring men. 
 A walk along the quay or fish-market in Yarmouth 
 will show what a number of tall, powerful men are to 
 be found among the East Anglian fishermen — all bone 
 and muscle, with shoulders as broad as those of 
 Hercules. The ports of Yarmouth and Lowestoft 
 are used by upwards of 10,000 fishermen, most of 
 them hardy Norfolk men, the greater proportion of 
 
10 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 whom could be, in time of war, turned into men-o'- 
 war's men at very short notice. These men have, 
 times without number, performed such heroic and 
 daring deeds that, like Marshal Ney, they have 
 earned for themselves the distinction of being known 
 as " the bravest of the brave/' Not a winter passes 
 but some startling deed of '' derring do " is per- 
 formed by these men during the gales. 
 
 Having taken a brief glance at the characteristics 
 of the county, its climate, and its inhabitants, we will 
 now make a closer acquaintance with the purport of 
 our pilgrimage — the Broads. 
 
 H»*a^«- 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 
 
 A grassy mead, with leafy shade — 
 
 Our bark rocks near the brinlc. 
 Hampers ashore, and cloth arrayed ; 
 Come, sit, and feast, and drink. 
 
 Pass each platter, 
 
 'Mid much clatter, 
 
 Joke and banter, 
 
 Noise and chatter, 
 Singing, laughter gay and hearty : 
 Won't you join our Water Party ? 
 
 E will now proceed to business, which with 
 us is synonymous with pleasure, and see 
 how we are to set about enjoying our 
 holiday. 
 
 In the first place, we will suppose we have arrived 
 at Yarmouth from London, Birmingham, or some other 
 large city, and, as our time is Hmited, wish to 
 commence our journey without delay. The Broads 
 cannot well be visited in less than a fortnight, and it 
 would be as well to make our holiday of that duration ; 
 but those who can spare a longer period will find quite 
 enough wherewith to occupy themselves. 
 
 % 
 
12 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Our first care will be to select a craft of suitable 
 size for the number of our party. If the company 
 is composed of four gentlemen, a sailing boat of 
 about 25ft. in length and 8ft. beam, with cabin 
 amidships, will be found most comfortable. If a 
 larger party, of, say, a dozen (including several 
 ladies), can be made up, then a wherry would 
 
 A Norfolk Wherry. 
 be the most suitable craft. This is a local pro- 
 duction, built somewhat like a sailing barge, carry- 
 ing one immense sail, and usually managed by a 
 man and a boy. The wherry took the place, early 
 in the century, of the old-fashioned " keel," whose 
 mast was stepped nearly amidships, unlike the 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 13 
 
 wherry's mast, which is placed within a few feet of 
 the bows. Beware of getting in the way of these 
 immense winged leviathans, for, as they come roar- 
 ing along with a good wind on the quarters, they 
 would annihilate any small craft that came in their 
 way. A wherry is divided into three compartments 
 — viz., bedroom, saloon, and kitchen. The bed- 
 room and saloon are under one roof, and occupy 
 nearly two-thirds of the length of the vessel. The 
 fore-part, or bows, is left clear as a promenade 
 deck ; then comes the ladies' bedroom, occupying 
 the whole width of the craft (some loft.), and about 
 I oft. of its length; next this is the saloon, 20ft. long, 
 nicely carpeted and painted, &c., with a large dining- 
 table in the centre, and, at the after end, the crowning 
 glory — a piano. After dark, with the lamps lighted, 
 and the merry party gathered around this instrument, 
 many a happy hour is passed away ; and, as the 
 Licensing Act does not hold sway here, I am afraid 
 that the small hours often arrive ere the saloon is 
 closed, and " sleep. Nature's sweet restorer," brings 
 silence and rest to the voyageurs '' rocked in the 
 cradle of the deep." I might add, that the pianoforte 
 is not always by Broadwood or Cramer, but is 
 still a very acceptable, and often very fair, instru- 
 ment. 
 
 Next the saloon, with a serving-door leading into 
 it, is the kitchen, fitted with a neat American range, 
 which is presided over by the skipper, who, besides 
 being sailing-master, is also cook and stewards 
 
14 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The dirty work is performed by the '' crew '' — a 
 lad of sixteen or seventeen years of age. All 
 washing-up, potato-peeling, fish-cleaning, &c., falls to 
 his lot. 
 
 For parties of two or three there are plenty of 
 smaller boats; but I would recommend at least four 
 to go together, as, besides being more economical, 
 everything is then more enjoyable than when there 
 are too few. 
 
 Ladies on small yachts I consider out of place. 
 Pardon me, fair readers, and allow me to explain. 
 In the first place, the sleeping accommodation is very 
 limited — so limited, indeed, that one cabin has to 
 accommodate, say, four persons ; therefore, unless the 
 party consists entirely of ladies, they are better 
 absent altogether. On the large wherries, a special 
 cabin is partitioned off for the use of ladies, so that 
 they secure both privacy and comfort, without which 
 the hoHday would be most unenjoyable. Again, the 
 amount of "roughing it" — to men a source of great 
 delight — would, to ladies unused to it, prove intoler- 
 ably uncomfortable. 
 
 The sleeping accommodation is very comfortable, 
 but of course the luxuries of town life must not be 
 looked for. A flock mattress (which in the daytime 
 forms a kind of locker-couch), a bolster, and two 
 blankets, are provided for each person, and nothing 
 further during summer time, is really required. Sleep 
 usually falls upon one directly the lamp is extin- 
 guished (after the first night), thanks to the fatigues 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 
 
 15 
 
 of a long, enjoyable day. The first night is usually 
 very strange to those unaccustomed to sleep in a 
 yacht — the continuous plash of the water against the 
 sides of the vessel, the soughing of the wind among 
 the reeds, the cry of different birds, the assorted 
 snores of friends, and other unique sounds, together 
 with the novelty of sleeping in a berth, tend to keep 
 one awake wondering for a long period. 
 
 "What is the cost?'' you ask. Well, for a boat to 
 accommodate two persons, without a man, the cost 
 would be about 30s. per week, including crockery, 
 cooking apparatus, and bedding. A decked cutter to 
 accommodate four or five, with a man, and every con- 
 venience for cooking and sleeping, could be procured 
 for about £4 per week. A wherry to carry a dozen, 
 with crew, &c., would cost from £^\2 to £14 per 
 week, or, say, from 20s. to 25s. per head per week. 
 This will be found much more economical than occu- 
 pying even ordinary apartments at a fashionable 
 watering-place. The following is a list of prices per 
 week for typical yachts and their crews. The names 
 are fanciful ones : — 
 
 Name. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Accommo- 
 dation. 
 
 Charge 
 per Week. 
 
 Crew. 
 
 *To\ver of Babel 
 
 Empress 
 
 Happy Medium 
 My Delight . . 
 Jack 0' Lantern 
 
 30 Tons 
 
 H M 
 12 ,, 
 
 8 „ 
 4 M 
 
 1 2 Persons 
 8 „ 
 6 „ 
 4 » 
 
 2 „ 
 
 ^10 tO;^I2 
 ;^ 10 
 
 4 10 
 400 
 2 5 
 
 £2 10 0—2 men 
 2 5 — I man and lad 
 2 — I ,, and boy 
 I 5 o-i .. 
 I 5 o-i »» 
 
 * A wherry. 
 
16 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Perhaps, as many of my readers are strangers to 
 the Broads, I had better mention the places where 
 boats may be most easily procured. Mutford, Yar- 
 mouth, Brundall, Norwich, and Wroxham, on the 
 navigable waters, are all likely places ; while, for 
 the land-locked Broads of Ormsby, Rollesby, and 
 Filby, boats may be had at the Eel's Foot, Ormsby, 
 and at other places, which will readily be pointed 
 out to the visitor inquiring for them. Visitors to 
 Fritton Decoy will find boats at their service at 
 Fritton Hall, one mile from St. Olave's Station. 
 Both rowing and sailing boats may be obtained. 
 They are the ordinary open boats, as there is no 
 means of getting large yachts there by water. 
 
 When hiring a yacht, it is well to have a written 
 agreement, in order to avoid any subsequent mis- 
 understanding. These agreements are usually in the 
 following form* : — 
 
 MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT for the Hire of Yacht, 
 \_Hirondelle\ between [Henry Inter Fenman], owner, of the one part, and 
 \Adolphus Caller Steward'], hirer, of the other part. 
 
 The said Owner agrees to let, and the said hirer agrees to take, the 
 Yacht [Hirondelle\ from the [27/^ Jiily, 1886], for \th7-ee -weeks], at the 
 rate \of Five Pounds ;per week], which includes one man (namely, the 
 navigator's wages). The hirer finds all consumable stores, and agrees 
 to Insure Yacht against any damage done, up to {Ten Pounds], paying 
 [Five Shillings per week] for the same \or Seven Shillings and Sixpence 
 per week for damage up to Twenty Pounds]. The said Yacht [Hirondelle] 
 to be dehvered back in good condition as when received to [The Cherry 
 Inn, Calthorpe Broad], including Cabin inventory (fair -wear and tear 
 
 * The words printed in brackets represent the portion to be filled in by 
 individual hirers, according to terms procurable. 
 

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PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 17 
 
 excepted). If not returned as above Agreement, the Hirer to pay any loss 
 sustained by Owner. 
 
 Half hire money paid as deposit, when engaging the Yacht ; balance 
 before sailing. 
 
 Witness to the Signature [JACOB DEADEYE,] 
 
 [^Navigator of Hirondelle.'] 
 
 Instead of paying the balance of hire before sailing, 
 it will be best to keep it in hand until the agreement 
 has been properly fulfilled on the part of the owner, 
 or his representative waterman, and the trip is con- 
 cluded. By so doing, you retain the power of com- 
 pelling the man to do your bidding, and insure the 
 contract being carried out according to your wishes. 
 If the man behaves well — and, as a rule, these men 
 are very obliging and pleasant — it is usual to give 
 him a present at parting ; indeed, some of these men 
 are so poorly paid by the owners that they rely upon 
 donations from the parties engaging them to make 
 up their salaries. 
 
 The idea of insurance is quite a new feature, and 
 is only adopted by a few of the owners. It is, how- 
 ever, a capital plan to thus insure, as, for the small 
 sum of 5s. per week, you are free from liability con- 
 nected with any accidents which may take place aboard, 
 or to the yacht, up to the amount of ;^io. Frequently, 
 with amateurs, oars are broken, glass skylights de- 
 molished, gear lost overboard, crockery broken or left 
 behind, &c., the expenses of which mishaps may be 
 covered by this insurance plan. At the same time, it 
 would be very wrong to be careless of the yacht and 
 its belongings merely because of this exemption from 
 
 C 
 
18 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 payment; and it is as well to know that culpable and 
 deliberate negligence is punished by compelling the 
 delinquent to make good the damage in full. 
 
 Victualling next claims our attention. "What pro- 
 visions shall we take?" is always asked before com- 
 mencing a trip, and I will endeavour to answer this 
 question fully, as a great deal of the enjoyment of 
 a cruise depends upon the commissariat. 
 
 Foremost on the list comes bread ; this can usually 
 be procured at the villages on the route, say, every 
 second day ; but as at times it is not procurable, a 
 supply of biscuits should be taken. Biscuits suggest 
 jam and marmalade. 
 
 As these trips are mostly undertaken during the 
 summer months, tinned food is consumed to a large 
 extent, as fresh meat and other perishable articles 
 soon become tainted in the confined and hot lockers. 
 It may be as well to point out that a good supply 
 of ice may be procured at Yarmouth from the Ice- 
 house on the Quay (where it is sold for preserving 
 the fresh fish), and, although more out of the direct 
 line of sailing, at Lowestoft. 
 
 The supply of fresh meat cannot be relied upon, 
 as few of the villages can boast of a butcher's 
 shop ; and in those that do, no animal is killed until 
 enough orders have been given to insure the sale 
 of the whole carcase. Tinned meats are always 
 handy, and, being already cooked, can be warmed 
 at a few minutes' notice ; a few onions and potatoes 
 added make a capital stew. Curried rabbit, ox-cheek. 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 19 
 
 tongue, spiced beef, boiled and roast mutton, kidneys, 
 hare-soup, lobster, salmon, &c., are all nice, and a 
 selection, according to taste, may be taken. If you 
 can obtain a piece of boiled salt beef at starting, it 
 will last several days, if kept in a cool place, and 
 form a piece de resistance. Tinned mutton, stewed 
 with rice, makes an excellent dish, and one that is 
 quickly and easily cooked. 
 
 Butter should be kept in a wide-mouthed jar. 
 Cheese, according to taste ; but remember that Norfolk 
 is noted for bad cheese, so beware ! A good supply of 
 onions and potatoes should be taken ; of the latter^ 
 about lib. per day per head. A bottle of anchovy 
 sauce, for eating with the fresh-water fish captured, 
 will be necessary ; also, if procurable, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs and some parsley. A jar of pickles ; 
 sugar, salt, and pepper, all in bottles. To these may 
 be added any little delicacies which the voyageur may 
 care for. Fruit, either fresh or preserved, is a nice 
 relish. Try a tinned pineapple, and you will, pro- 
 bably, like it as well as the article au naturel. I 
 have merely mentioned the necessary articles, but 
 each individual must vary the list according to his 
 taste. 
 
 Don't forget the matches ! and a candle or 
 two ; also a pound or two of soap. Tobacco and 
 cigars must also be taken ; the tobacco may be pro- 
 cured at the village shops, but only those who are 
 used to strong kinds will esteem it. Cigars which 
 are smokable are not to be had at all. 
 
 C 2 
 
20 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Cooking utensils are always provided, as also 
 crockery, knives, forks, towels, &c., so no thought 
 need be given to these. 
 
 What shall we drink ? Here I would advise the 
 reader to supply himself according to his own taste, as 
 opinions on the drink question vary so widely. Tea 
 tightly corked in a bottle, and coffee and cocoa in tins, 
 are generally necessary. Tinned milk may be taken, 
 and fresh milk may be obtained at most, but not at 
 all, villages ; when a supply is procured, bottle some 
 of it for future use. If spirits are needed, it is best 
 to take a supply, as the quality of those obtained at 
 the inns is of a ''fiery, untamed '^ order, with the ex- 
 ception of Hollands, which at some places is very 
 fair. Beer, of the peculiar sweet flavour in vogue in 
 Norfolk, but, nevertheless, pure and wholesome, may 
 be had anywhere. Some of the inns keep an old 
 ale in stock, called " Old Tom." It is exceedingly 
 intoxicating, and costs one shilling per quart. A 
 bottle of Rose's Lime Juice Cordial may be added 
 to the cellar, also syrups of any kind, especially 
 raspberry, and lemonade and ginger-beer. The water 
 for cooking is usually taken from the river, when it 
 is clear, and that for drinking purposes is procured 
 from the cottage wells on the route. 
 
 For gentlemen's dress, there is nothing like white 
 flannel, with polo or straw hats. A thin macintosh, 
 for wet weather, is very handy ; also a good warm 
 overcoat for night work, as, even in the height of 
 summer, the nights are often chilly. A pair of easy 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 21 
 
 shoes, and a pair of watertight boots, will be required 
 for fishing from the bank in boggy places. For 
 ladies' dress (I will say little here, or I shall get out 
 of my latitude), nothing can compare with navy serge 
 made up in a very plain manner, so as to present 
 as few folds as possible for boughs of trees, oars, 
 &c., to catch in. A little bright colour in the trim- 
 ming, if you please, ladies ! and be sure and wear 
 strong, watertight boots in place of dainty, fancy, 
 French shoes. 
 
 For the impedimenta in the way of fishing-tackle, 
 &c., I will not advise the reader here. A good book 
 on angling, or his own experience, will probably 
 serve him as well as I can on the subject. Most of 
 the fishing requisites are mentioned in the follow- 
 ing ancient verse from Izaak Walton's book : — 
 
 My rod and my line, my float and my lead, 
 
 My hook and my plummet, my whetstone and knife, 
 
 My basket, my baits both living and dead. 
 My net, and my meat (for that is the chief) : 
 
 Then I must have thread, and hairs green and small. 
 With mine angling purse — and so you have all. 
 
 A gun will be found useful, as the shooting on all 
 the rivers, and some of the Broads, is free. Plenty 
 of sport may be had in the early morning and at 
 dusk among the dabchicks, coot, waterhens, pewits, 
 snipe, &c. 
 
 I found a cricket-bat of service, as there are some 
 tremendous matches played between the rival villages, 
 which take weeks to arrange, and are played with as 
 much determination as if a battle were being fought. 
 
22 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 A stranger who can play fairly well is eagerly enrolled 
 in the team of some belligerent village, and his ser- 
 vices are heartily appreciated. A tennis-set is handy, 
 as there are many opportunities afforded for those 
 who indulge in this popular pastime ; plenty of level 
 meadows will be found, where the boats may be 
 moored to the bank and a tennis-court improvised. 
 After being in a boat for a time, exercise on shore 
 will be found very beneficial. A pack of cards and 
 a few books may be taken as a preventive of ennui 
 on a wet day, or for use after dark. As we want to 
 see all that can be seen, a pair of field or powerful 
 opera-glasses will be found very useful. 
 
 I will add a few lines here on behalf of the farmers 
 and landowners, who are, most of them, very friendly 
 and sociable, and will readily allow those persons 
 constituting water-parties to wander about their mea- 
 dows and lands, so long as they are content to enjoy 
 themselves in a becoming manner, not detrimental to 
 the land, crops, or cattle. I am sorry to say, how- 
 ever, that of late years numerous complaints have been 
 made as to saplings being pulled up by the roots, 
 and of fences and gates being broken down, for the 
 purpose of making camp fires ; but surely there are 
 plenty of sticks and twigs to be got without damaging 
 private property. Another annoyance is the break- 
 ing of bottles over the fields. The bottles, when 
 empty, are set up for " cock-shies,'^ and the debris 
 is left strewn around ; the cattle or horses then step 
 on pieces and cripple themselves, or lie on them, and 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP. 23 
 
 are severely wounded. I would suggest that the 
 oldest person in each party should take upon himself 
 the role of constable, and so put a stop to these 
 foolish proceedings. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 
 
 Oh, the gallant fisher's life, 
 
 It is the best of any ! 
 'Tis fuU of pleasure, void of strife. 
 And 'tis beloved by many : 
 
 Other joys 
 
 Are but toys; 
 
 Only this 
 
 Lawful is ; 
 
 For our skill 
 
 Breeds no ill, 
 But content and pleasure. — Izaak Walton. 
 
 AVING given some idea of the boats and 
 ^^^3lI* outfit required, I will ask the reader to 
 JLLtL2 accompany me upon a trip in which I 
 shall endeavour to take him to all the principal 
 Broads and places of interest. It matters little from 
 what town the start is made, whether Yarmouth, 
 Norwich, Wroxham, or Lowestoft, each having its 
 partisans. 
 
 On this occasion we will start from Yarmouth, 
 principally because I think it the most convenient 
 place from which to reach any given point quickly. 
 
 M 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 25 
 
 and also because our little steam yacht happens to 
 be moored in Breydon Water, near the Ale Stores, 
 Bure Mouth. Here she is, the *' Lily " — somewhat 
 like a launch in hull, but broader in the beam in 
 proportion to her length. She is 30ft. long and 
 7ft. 6in. beam. Forward in the peak is a small 
 American cooking-stove ; so that the man who drives 
 the engine, which comes next, can keep one eye on 
 the dinner which is preparing, and the other on the 
 machinery. A cabin amidships makes a snug dining 
 and bedroom combined, 9ft. long, 7ft. wide, and 
 5ft. 9in. high. It contains innumerable lockers for the 
 thousand-and-one articles to be used on the voyage. 
 Long seat-lockers fold down at night, forming ample 
 sleeping accommodation for four persons. Large 
 stern-sheets, with lockers all round, forming seats, 
 fill up the space between the cabin and the stern. 
 
 I would point out to my readers, ere we start, that 
 although we are about to undertake the trip in a 
 steam yacht, the journey may be made with equal 
 ease in a sailing vessel. Indeed, most persons would 
 prefer being under sail, so as to obviate the incessant 
 vibration caused by the throbbing of the propeller, 
 and also the unpleasantness of the smoke. Our chief 
 motive for taking the voyage by steam is its quick- 
 ness. We have but a limited period at our disposal, 
 and shall not, therefore, loiter for any length of time 
 at any particular spot, either to fish or sketch, but 
 merely long enough to note the points of interest. 
 
 Those who wish to learn to sail a boat will have 
 
26 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 a splendid opportunity of doing so here, as the flaws 
 of wind may be seen ruffling the water or bending 
 the reeds before striking the sails, and the amateur 
 yachtsman will soon learn to make the most of these 
 " puffs " when a steady breeze is not available. The 
 various reaches in the rivers will teach him the 
 science of tacking, which is one of the first and chief 
 things to be learned on narrow waters. He will like- 
 wise learn the rules of the river, how to pass other 
 craft, to know the indications which surely proclaim 
 a shoal, and the many points of observation and 
 practice necessary to success as a yachtsman. 
 
 To return to our steamer. Catching the first of 
 the flood, we cast off for a run across Breydon, down 
 the Waveney to Lowestoft. Being a fine day, with a 
 nice breeze, the water is alive with yachts of all rigs, 
 shapes, and sizes, from the tiny lug skiff to the 
 queenly twenty-ton racing yacht. This is the great 
 regatta and match-sailing course for the East Coast. 
 The course is marked by a line of stakes from the 
 Swing Bridge to the Berney Arms, a distance of four- 
 and-a-half miles. The quantity of canvas carried by 
 racing craft is simply enormous, and will at once 
 attract the notice of our Midland or town friends. 
 The shooting is free, and sometimes, in severe 
 weather, capital duck-shooting may be had on these 
 waters. The area is about 1300 acres, and any part 
 of it may be traversed, in search of wildfowl, by 
 using a flat-bottomed punt, which may be hired for a 
 shilling per day ; this punt is necessary, as the water 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 27 
 
 is in some parts very fleet, and, as the tide ebbs, large 
 banks covered with mud are left exposed. Those who 
 venture upon these banks must first don the mud- 
 pattens, usually to be found in the boat, and which are 
 simply flat pieces of board, strapped upon the feet to 
 prevent the wearer from sinking into the slimy mud. 
 They are very awkward things at first, and more 
 care is usually necessary to look after one's self than 
 the wildfowl ; a little practice, however, soon teaches 
 one to flounder about capitally. 
 
 Having gained the western extremity, we find the 
 mouths of two rivers right ahead ; that to the right 
 is the Yare, from which Yarmouth derives its name, 
 and leads to Norwich, &c. ; that to the left, up 
 which our way lies, is the Waveney. At the juncture 
 you may see the skeletons of two or three yachts 
 which have met with sudden ends by missing stays, 
 &c., and drifting upon the dreaded Burgh Flats. On 
 our immediate left, but a short distance inland, are the 
 remains of the ancient Burgh Castle, which should 
 not be passed without a visit. The Roman walls of 
 this castle — for it is at least 1500 years old — are in a 
 remarkably perfect state. They inclose five-and-a-half 
 acres of ground, and are of red bricks (which are even 
 now as hard as when first baked), laid in alternate 
 layers with the usual flintwork. Being so close to 
 Yarmouth, it is a great resort for picnic parties. 
 
 After viewing these interesting ruins, we again 
 embark, and, after a run of six or seven miles, arrive 
 at St. Olave's Bridge, where we again land for a 
 
28 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 walk to Fritton Decoy, to my mind one of the finest, 
 if not the most delightful, of the Broads. Walking 
 half-a-mile, we arrive at the junction of two roads ; 
 take the right, and another half-mile brings us to 
 Fritton Old Hall, a most picturesque old manor-house, 
 delightfully situated, and with a very fine garden. 
 Here boats (which, however, are the roughest and 
 most ramshackle things of the kind I ever saw 
 offered for hire) may be procured, from the middle of 
 March to the end of September. During the remain- 
 ing months the Broad is kept private, so that the 
 decoying of wild ducks may be uninterrupted. 
 
 A decoy is a very simple contrivance, made by 
 erecting a series of semicircular hoops, gradually 
 diminishing in size, for some 70yds. or 8oyds. The 
 mouth hoop would be perhaps 5yds. across, the next 
 a trifle smaller, and so on, till those at the farther 
 end would be only about 2ft. across. These hoops 
 are covered with wire netting, so that, when the fowl 
 are once in the mouth, they cannot again get out. 
 Under the arches is dug a canal, or channel, also 
 gradually diminishing as the hoops get less ; and at 
 the far end is attached a movable tail, or " cod-piece," 
 from which the fowler may take the birds as they are 
 scared to their doom. 
 
 It is necessary that the decoy be erected in a 
 secluded spot, as ducks and other aquatic fowl are 
 extremely shy. Fowl come to these waters for two 
 purposes — for retirement, and to seek for food ; after 
 satisfying their hunger, they have a habit of selecting 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 29 
 
 a grassy bank, upon which they congregate and plume 
 their feathers. It is usual, therefore, to provide a 
 nice green bank, near the mouth of the " pipe," as 
 the entrance to the decoy is called, where they fra- 
 ternise with the decoy ducks belonging there. Pre- 
 sently, when all is quiet, a dog is seen approaching, 
 and, although only a little fox terrier, he is large 
 enough to inspire the fowl with alarm ; so they 
 betake themselves to the water, where they feel safer. 
 The decoy ducks, when once in the water, make for 
 the mouth of the pipe, as in the decoy they have 
 been fed daily ; but our little friend the terrier takes 
 to the water also, and swims after them until they 
 enter the mouth of. the pipe. When fairly entered, 
 the decoy man, in his boat, suddenly appears from 
 behind a rush screen, where he has been anxiously 
 awaiting the time when he can suddenly dart forth 
 and scare his prey. Directly he appears in the 
 entrance, the wild fowl naturally take wing, and fly 
 in an opposite direction to their persecutor; but this 
 only takes them farther and farther into the toils, till 
 at length they have no room to spread their wings 
 for flight, and are then driven into the tail of the 
 net, whence they are withdrawn by the fowler — the 
 '* decoys " to be returned to their grassy patch, and 
 the strangers to receive the "garotte,^' and repose in 
 the fowler's basket. As many as fifty brace of birds 
 have occasionally thus been caught at one " push,'' 
 as the drive is technically termed. 
 
 The following extract, relating to Fritton Decoy, 
 
30 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 from a book printed at the end of the last century, 
 may be interesting: ''Fowl and fish are very plenti- 
 ful here, the pike and eels being very large. The 
 duck, mallard, and teal, are in such plenty as is scarce 
 to be conceived. They are taken in prodigious flocks 
 at a time, in the decoys. They send these fowl to 
 London twice a week, on horseback, from Michaelmas 
 to Lady Day, and one decoy will furnish twenty dozen 
 or more, twice a week, for the whole season. Two 
 teal are usually reckoned equal to one duck, and five 
 duck and twelve teal are accounted a dozen of wild 
 fowl. The usual market price is about gs. for such 
 a dozen." 
 
 Fritton Decoy is about two-and-a-half miles long, 
 and is very deep (in some places i8ft. or 2oft.), and 
 contains about 200 square acres. It is beautifully 
 surrounded by woods. Some of the trees are grand 
 old specimens of gnarled English forest trees, whose 
 roots stand out of the water like some huge Hydra. 
 Here is sketching-ground for the artist, indeed, and 
 the water is fairly teeming with fish for the angler, 
 as, being private property, it is not so much netted 
 as some of the Broads have unfortunately been. 
 Indeed, some twelve or fourteen years since the 
 Broads^ were so netted by gangs of poachers that, 
 had not certain gentlemen of authority put a stop 
 to it by obtaining an Act of Parliament to prevent 
 netting and liggering, the water stood in a fair way 
 of becoming exhausted of fish. The poachers have 
 at times brought in and sent by train as much as 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 31 
 
 seven or eight tons of fish, without any attempt at 
 concealment. When the price offered would not pay 
 for carriage, the fish were simply used for manure. 
 It is pleasant to hear that some of the true lovers 
 of angling have hit upon a plan to stop drag-net 
 poaching in the rivers. They watch, and, having 
 discovered who the poacher is, take measures to stop 
 his unlawful proceedings without setting the law's 
 majesty in motion, by taking the law into their own 
 hands, thus : They procure an old barrel, which they 
 stud thickly all over with tenter nails ; this is then 
 carried to the river at the spot where the poaching 
 takes place. It is then loaded with stones or 
 brickbats, and dropped into the river-bed. The 
 next time the poacher drags, his net is irredeemably 
 tangled in the " devil," and rendered useless. The 
 heavy expenses incurred in the preservation of 
 the Broads and rivers are defrayed by the voluntary 
 subscriptions of anglers and others ; and I would 
 earnestly request all gentlemen who may visit these 
 waters to collect a small amount among themselves, 
 and send it to the Hon. Secretary to the Board of 
 Conservators, Norwich. The Act just mentioned had 
 the effect of breaking up these gangs of poachers, 
 and the stock of fish has again become plentiful. 
 However, even now strict watch requires to be kept, 
 and more funds will give the committee power to 
 exercise greater vigilance. 
 
 The fish at Fritton are pike, perch, silver bream, 
 roach, rudd, pope, and eels ; the last two named are 
 
32 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 a perfect pest to the angler, as they spoil the bait, 
 and are worthless when caught. 
 
 Visitors to Fritton will do well to take their own 
 provisions, as there is no means of obtaining refresh- 
 ment there ; the nearest inn is about a mile distant. 
 
 The church, near the west end of the Decoy, and 
 which is passed by visitors along the road from the 
 river or railway station, contains an old oak screen, 
 besides other things of interest. The register dates 
 from A.D. 1559. The building is very small and 
 unpretentious. 
 
 On re-embarking at St. Olave's Bridge, we again 
 shape our course southward, through marsh and 
 meadow-land, containing great numbers of cattle. 
 The wooded Herringfleet Hills are on our left, 
 covered with beautiful heather, and a stroll over 
 them, and the view to be obtained from them, will 
 be found most delightful. Five miles from St. Olave's 
 Bridge we leave the Waveney, and enter Oulton 
 Dyke. 
 
 Somerleyton Hall and grounds, the seat of Sir 
 Saville Crossley, are, in the summer months, thrown 
 open to the public, and many Yarmouth and Lowestoft 
 visitors avail themselves of the opportunity of viewing 
 this fine mansion. It is on our left before coming to 
 Oulton Broad. The grounds are noted both for their 
 natural beauty and for the skill devoted to them by 
 a little army of gardeners. 
 
 Excursion tickets are issued, during the summer 
 months, to Somerleyton from Yarmouth ; but, instead 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 33 
 
 of taking a return ticket, the walk back should be 
 enjoyed, over the heather-covered Herringfleet hills, 
 the home of the pewit, and past Fritton and Belton, 
 to Gorleston, whence a couple of miles on the tram 
 brings you to Yarmouth Bridge. 
 
 Oulton Dyke is one-and-a-half miles long, and 
 nearly as wide as the river, so there is ample room 
 for sailing. The part of the dyke past the Horse- 
 shoe bend is called, for a reason I cannot fathom, 
 Fisher's Row. Oulton Broad is a fine, clear expanse 
 of deep water, with good fishing ; it is about a mile 
 long, and contains upwards of lOO acres. Upon 
 entering the Broad, a lone house will be noticed on 
 the left. It is built of stone and brick, and is sur- 
 rounded by a belt of fir trees. It was the home of 
 George Borrow, the celebrated *' Romany Rye," who 
 wrote so many books upon gipsies, and their manners 
 and customs. His best-known work, " The Bible in 
 Spain," is a book interesting to everyone. He died 
 only five or six years since. There is a station at 
 Oulton, at the lower end of the Broad, from which 
 it is only five minutes' journey to Lowestoft, and 
 twenty to Yarmouth. Boats, bait, and light refresh- 
 ments, or substantial meals, may be obtained at the 
 Wherry Inn, adjoining the Broad, and close to the 
 station. The bar-parlour of the Wherry is quite 
 a museum, and contains curiosities from all parts of 
 the world ; but to the local productions the principal 
 interest is attached. One case contains four perch, 
 averaging 2jlb., forming part of a take of twenty- 
 
34 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 seven fish captured in the space of an hour. Another 
 has a large otter (i81b., 1 believe) which was caught 
 here a year or two ago. On the day of my last 
 visit (March, 1887) to this cheerful hostelry, a 151b. 
 otter was caught in the Waveney, making the fifth 
 since Christmas. Although not so numerous as 
 formerly, they are far from being extinct in these 
 waters, as some persons suppose. The bittern — two 
 specimens of which are to be seen — is, I am afraid, 
 now extinct in the county. An hour may profitably 
 be spent in this parlour museum, and a lot of infor- 
 mation gathered from the practical host. 
 
 The Backwater, or whatever the small arm of the 
 Broad is called, forms a harbour in winter for laying- 
 up yachts, as it lies in a snug corner, at the back 
 of the village. The tall building overlooking this 
 part of the Broad is an ice-house, from which parties 
 starting on a summer trip may obtain a supply of 
 ice to keep the various eatables and drinkables cold — 
 a great desideratum in July and August. Travellers 
 from London who take a fortnightly return ticket 
 to Lowestoft should alight at Carlton Colville if they 
 wish to visit Oulton Broad. A walk of five minutes, 
 over Mutford Bridge, will bring them to the starting- 
 place of the yachts. 
 
 Passing under the Bridge and through the Lock, we 
 enter Lake Lothing, a large sheet of water lying be- 
 tween two hills, two miles in length, and deep ; at 
 times large shoals of mullet and smelt enter the lake, 
 and good takes are sometimes to be had with a net. 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 35 
 
 At the eastern end, communication with the sea may- 
 be obtained by passing through the locks into Lowes- 
 toft Harbour, which has now nearly been completed by 
 the Great Eastern Railway Company, at a cost of over 
 half-a-million sterling. Being more accessible in all 
 weathers to fishing vessels than Yarmouth, it is ex- 
 pected that the fishing industry at this most interesting 
 port will be largely and remuneratively increased. 
 Lowestoft is by many visitors preferred to Yarmouth, 
 being very picturesquely situated on the brow of a hill 
 overlooking the sea, while Yarmouth is excessively flat. 
 It is also much quieter, and not so much overrun by 
 cheap trippers. Relics of various kinds are often dug 
 out of the cliffs in the neighbourhood, many of which 
 may be seen in the Museum at Norwich. Lowestoft 
 should be visited by all means, if only for an hour 
 or two ; but, as we have little to do with the towns, 
 I must leave it to the reader to inquire for the places 
 of interest in Lowestoft itself. I may, en passant, 
 note that the town contains one long main street, 
 with numerous short ones diverging from it on either 
 side; its ground plan is, in fact, like the backbone 
 of a fish, just as the map of Yarmouth was likened 
 by Dickens to a huge gridiron. These, I think, 
 are most appropriate plans for fishing towns. Lowes- 
 toft has two lighthouses, which are greatly needed on 
 this most dangerous coast : one stands high on the 
 clifT, and the other, a short, skeleton tower, is on the 
 beach, not far above high water mark. The pier, 
 which has a reading-room at the extreme end, is 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 about 400yds. in length, and is usually crowded at the 
 time the band is appointed to play in the evening. 
 St. Margaret's Church is a splendid building, which 
 stands some distance from the town, and should not 
 be missed. There are some glorious country walks 
 around Lowestoft, and the drive to Yarmouth (ten 
 miles) is very delightful. Now that we are near the 
 
 Burgh St. Peter Church. 
 
 sea, we will take a stroll on the beach, and have a 
 dip, while our man in the fore-peak prepares our 
 meal, which we hope to eat with enhanced appetite 
 after our sea-bath. 
 
 If it be wished to lengthen the trip on the Waveney, 
 that river can be ascended for many miles, as it is 
 navigable for large vessels as far as Beccles (eight 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 
 
 37 
 
 miles), and, for moderate-sized yachts, even to Bungay 
 (fifteen miles). To visit these places from Lowes- 
 toft, we must retrace our course through Lothing 
 and Oulton Broads, and Oulton Dyke, until we arrive 
 at the junction of the Waveney. Through the dyke 
 we have been steering due north ; but when we 
 arrive at the Waveney we alter our head to south- 
 west, and run past the village of Burgh St. Peter, 
 which is on our right. The ancient church, dedicated 
 to St. Mary, is a small, thatched 
 edifice, with a brick and stone 
 tower, containing a solitary bell. 
 
 The tower, which is unique in 
 construction, appears to have been 
 built at different periods, as the 
 base, or lower storey, is of brick 
 and stone, worked into geo- 
 metrical patterns, the second and 
 third of brick, the fourth of stone 
 and brick, and the fifth of brick. 
 The capstone, which, at a very 
 recent period, was perched above a short wooden 
 spire, now lies in the churchyard. It is of freestone, 
 with a wooden finial. This was the crowning effort 
 of the genius who built the curious five-storeyed tower. 
 The interior of the church presents a curious appear- 
 ance, being more like a corridor or cloister than the 
 nave of a parish church ; this is on account of the 
 extreme narrowness in comparison with the length- 
 It is about iioft. long, and only a little over 14ft. 
 
 Finial of Burgh St. Peter 
 Church. 
 
38 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 wide. The number of candles and crosses in the 
 chancel are in strong contrast to the usual Low 
 Church proclivities of the Norfolk people. The 
 vicar, the Rev. — Boycatt, is brother to Captain 
 Boycott, against whom originated the " boycotting " 
 system in Ireland. I was told an a-mews-ing tale con- 
 cerning the discrepancy in the spelling of their names, 
 but do not think it worth while printing. Notice also 
 the octagonal font, the rood staircase, sedilia, and 
 other equally interesting features. From a distance 
 the tower looks like a huge telescope set on end, as 
 each successive storey is much smaller than the one 
 beneath it. 
 
 Our progress along the river is through seemingly 
 illimitable marsh or fen land, with a patch of culti- 
 vated land at intervals, and we see no other village 
 till we reach Beccles, on the left bank, although 
 we pass within three-quarters of a mile of the con- 
 siderable village of Aldeby. If we wish to pay this 
 place a visit, we must moor to the right bank just 
 before we come to the railway bridge, and walk. 
 The only thing worth seeing, however, is the fine 
 old church of St. Mary, the tower of which (containing 
 four bells) springs, a solid, square mass, from the 
 junction of the nave and chancel. 
 
 Archaeologists may find instructive examples upon 
 which to comment in several parts of the church, 
 especially the doorway, of old Norman masonry, situate 
 at the west end. While passing through this hoary 
 portal, which is said to be as old as the time of 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 39 
 
 William II., we are confronted by a venerable font, 
 which, by the style of the carving, appears to be of 
 the fourteenth century, or perhaps a little earlier. 
 There may also be seen a piscina and two sedilia, 
 while the register is also extant, dating from the 
 year 1541. Many other noticeable features will not 
 be passed over by those who are versed in architecture 
 of an ecclesiastic kind. To prove its antiquity, there 
 is still in existence a charter, by which, in the reign 
 of Henry I. (iioo to 1135 A.D.), the church was given 
 to the Cathedral Monastery of Norwich, by Agnes de 
 Belfo, wife of Robert de Kia. The Bishop of Norwich 
 then founded a small priory here for the maintenance 
 of a prior and three black monks, the remains of which 
 are still to be seen, as they form part of the Priory 
 Farm, and may, by the permission of the occupier, 
 Mr. William Blyth, be visited. 
 
 Yachts can pass the swing bridge at all times when 
 the flag is down ; but when it is elevated to the top 
 of the pole, this is a signal that a train is due, and 
 until it has passed those in charge will not open the 
 bridge ; so that, for those in a hurry, there is no 
 way but to lower the mast. This proceeding, instead 
 of saving time, often loses it. 
 
 Beccles, on the left bank, is one of the largest and 
 busiest towns in Suffolk, containing upwards of 6,000 
 inhabitants. It is agreeably situated on rising ground, 
 and, besides a town hall and theatre, boasts of a 
 capital race-course (half a mile east of the town), 
 upon which racing takes place in the Spring and 
 
40 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Autumn. There is a free school for boys, founded, 
 in the year 163 1, by Sir John Seman, who also 
 endowed it with 100 acres of land. The grand 
 old church, with its huge detached steeple, or rather 
 tower — for it is a most massive, square structure — 
 must be visited and its carved stone decorations 
 inspected. It may be doubted if any church in the 
 county can boast of such a grand entrance-porch as 
 
 the one belonging to this 
 cathedral-like church. The 
 building was erected in 
 1369, just the period when 
 ecclesiastic architecture was 
 at its zenith. Beccles does 
 a large trade in corn, 
 coal, malt, and other heavy 
 goods, which, since the 
 deepening of the Waveney 
 in 1832, have been trans- 
 ported principally by water; 
 in fact, although thirteen 
 miles from the sea via 
 Lowestoft, it might almost claim the privileges 
 of a seaport, so broad and deep is the channel 
 for the admission of vessels quite up to the 
 town. Saturday is market day, when a very 
 good show of all kinds of provisions and the usual 
 household stores is displayed. There are also plenty 
 of shops, at which, on other days, the ordinary visitor 
 may replenish his wasting stores. Delicious butter 
 
 Entrance-Porch of Beccles 
 Church. 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 
 
 41 
 
 may be had at a reasonable rate, sold by the intel- 
 ligible pound instead of the " pint " which was 
 formerly in vogue in all the Eastern Counties. The 
 ''pint" contained twenty ounces, and was a cylin- 
 drical mass in the shape of the ordinary upright 
 hand churn or large milk-can so familiar to travellers 
 on the railway. Perhaps a dice-box will give a 
 better idea of the shape, 
 but instead of the waist 
 being in the centre, it was 
 about one-third of the way 
 from the small end. Speak- 
 ing of butter, it may be 
 noted that until quite re- 
 cently it was sold in Cam- 
 bridgeshire by the yard. 
 
 Having spent a few hours 
 at the old town of Bec- 
 cles, and made one or 
 two small purchases, we 
 again embark, and proceed 
 on our journey to Bungay, 
 eight miles higher up the river. The aspect of 
 Beccles from the river — that is, after passing it some 
 distance — is extremely striking, and it will be difficult 
 to find a more picturesque town on these waters, 
 unless it be Wroxham, with its giant trees and 
 church-crowned hill. As the draught of the ''Lily" 
 is but slight, we can travel very comfortably where 
 a large saiUng vessel would be constantly coming 
 
 Clocher of Beccles Church, 
 
 APART FROM NaVE. 
 
42 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 to grief on the bottom in tacking. For this reason 
 ordinary sea-going yachts are totally unfitted for river 
 work, and especially the comparatively shallow rivers 
 outside a radius of, say, fifteen to twenty miles from 
 Yarmouth. 
 
 Leaving Beccles, the district becomes much more 
 cultivated and less monotonous, and the marshes 
 fewer. While steaming steadily onward, there is 
 time to mention the subject of fogs, which, in these 
 fenny districts, rise without any warning; their ghost- 
 like presence alone making you notice that they are 
 there. They sometimes come in the form of rolling, 
 white clouds, bowling along the river's course at a 
 smart pace, so that one minute you may be in a 
 beautiful, clear atmosphere, while the next your craft 
 is veiled in a thick winding-sheet of white mist. 
 When it is very dense, the best plan is to lay-to 
 and moor to the bank till the fog has passed. It 
 generally departs as quickly as it came, and is seldom 
 met with except in early morn and at evening. 
 Sometimes, it will hang on the river and adjoining 
 country in a bank, or, if I may so term it, a carpet, 
 about two feet thick, while all above is quite clear. 
 At these times, the cattle grazing on the marshes 
 appear without legs or support of any kind, so that 
 their bodies seem to be floating in the dense atmo- 
 sphere. If they bend to eat, off go their heads, so 
 that the whole herd present a curious appearance. 
 Trees grow apparently without trunks, and men 
 come gliding along the river, seated on a fogbank. 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 43 
 
 for their boat is invisible. Then the fog will at times 
 hover in the air, cutting off the branches of trees, 
 tops of cottages, &c. These peculiar fogs are ex- 
 perienced in Holland, and, I believe, in all flat, low- 
 lying localities, in just the same manner. Spring and 
 Autumn are the principal times of their visitation, 
 although they are occasionally seen late in the even- 
 ing or early of a morning in the summer; but they 
 are very transitory, the morning mist melting with 
 the first warmth of the glittering sun, who looks 
 upon the fog as a treasonable and dangerous rival, 
 and banishes him accordingly. 
 
 Gillingham lies on the opposite bank to Beccles, a 
 good mile from the river, and is worth a visit, if 
 only to see a genuine piece of Norman architecture, 
 the Church of St. Mary, whose register dates from 
 1540. This church was built about AD. 11 20, and 
 is unique, inasmuch as it has a galille, or women's 
 porch. In the good old times when this edifice was 
 constructed, women were so little honoured that they 
 were not allowed to enter the body of the church 
 on certain occasions, but were only permitted to hear 
 the service from the porch. 
 
 I am not sure, but I believe this is the only 
 instance of a galille in the county. 
 
 The finest specimen of a galille in England is in 
 Durham Cathedral, and this is so large that it is used 
 as a chapel for the undergraduates of Durham Uni- 
 versity. To show the manner in which women were 
 tabooed from the sacred fanes of mediaeval times, 
 
44 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 visitors to Durham Cathedral are shown a large, black 
 stone cross, let into the floor of the nave, close to the 
 chancel, beyond which no woman was allowed to 
 pass, upon pain of all sorts of dreadful penalties and 
 punishments being meted out to her. 
 
 We will, however, come back to Gillingham. The 
 Hall, which stands in its own lovely grounds, is up- 
 wards of 200 years old, having been built in the reign 
 of James I. It is the seat of Admiral Eden, J. P., who 
 is also lord of the manor. As we progress .up the 
 river, we notice a hill covered with fir trees, which 
 come quite down to the river, and look very rustic 
 and pretty. This is Dunburgh Hill, a well-known 
 angling spot. 
 
 The next village is Geldeston, a mile from the 
 river, also on the right bank. There is very little to 
 see to repay a visit. The church was restored, twenty 
 years since, at a cost of ;^I200, and is therefore practi- 
 cally a new church, but with a very old history, for 
 its register dates back to the year 1600. The Hall is 
 a modern brick building, erected at the beginning of 
 the present century, and stands in a well-wooded 
 park. There is a station here (Beccles and Bungay 
 line), which is half a mile from the river. 
 
 On the left bank, a mile inland, is Barsham, noted 
 as the birthplace of Dr. Laurence Eachard, the his- 
 torian and divine. On the same side, but within half 
 a mile of the river, is Shipmeadow, noted for nothing 
 in particular except its rural quietness. Here we are 
 stopped by a lock, and pay toll ; the payment of this 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 45 
 
 one sum also takes us through two other locks 
 before reaching Bungay. The locks, and their dis- 
 tances from Beccles, are as follow : first, Shipmeadow 
 Lock, four miles ; then, three miles farther, is Elling- 
 ham Lock; two miles more brings us to Wangford 
 Lock ; and another mile lands us at Bungay Staithe. 
 
 Farther along on the right bank, and adjoining 
 the river, is Ellingham, which boasts of a railway 
 station, five minutes' walk from the landing-place. 
 It is but a small village, supporting, perhaps, 400 
 inhabitants, but still a thriving little place. 
 
 The church (St. Mary) is an ancient building, with 
 a square tower containing five bells. In the chancel 
 are a piscina and a large wall painting. The 
 latter represents the angel appearing to St. Peter in 
 prison, who is about to be liberated therefrom. 
 Several of the windows are filled with memorials of 
 stained glass, none of which are very grand speci- 
 mens of nineteenth century work. It may be noted 
 that the modern revival of stained glass has been 
 taken up with such enthusiasm by the various artists 
 in this beautiful work, that the old glass has not 
 only, by some of them, been equalled, but actually 
 surpassed. This has only come to pass during the 
 last decade, as some of the work executed at the 
 commencement of the revival is not only absolutely 
 hideous in colour, but the drawing partakes of the 
 grotesque or caricature order; while the designs are 
 beneath criticism. The painting, too, is such as the 
 " merest novice in the profession would be ashamed 
 
46 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 of. This revival only took place about thirty years 
 since ; but now, during the past few years, notice 
 the beautiful metamorphosis. Men who have since 
 raised themselves to the head of their profession 
 as artists, several of whom now write R.A. after 
 their names, took the matter in hand, and gave 
 the world such cartoons as it had never seen before 
 for this special purpose. Clever chemists set to 
 work and analysed the component parts of the old 
 glass, and very soon produced such lovely colours 
 and tints as the old monkish glass-painters never 
 dreamed of. Then clever painters were sought for 
 and found, and, with equally clever cutters and 
 glaziers, windows have been produced during these 
 last few years which have never been surpassed 
 since stained glass has been used as a church 
 decoration. Although perhaps a hundred glass- 
 painters may now be found in Great Britain, the 
 real masters of the art might be counted on the 
 lingers of the two hands. So much for this sub- 
 ject, which was brought on the tapis by gazing on 
 the pictorial windows of Ellingham Church. The 
 register carries us back to the days of Bluff King 
 Hal, for it was commenced in 1538. 
 
 After passing a large island in the river, we are in 
 sight of that scarcely euphoniously named town, Bun- 
 gay. It is of considerable importance, and musters 
 between 3000 and 4000 inhabitants ; but although a 
 railway depot, it has not kept pace with the times, as 
 Beccles has done. Forty years since, before the 
 
YARMOUTH TO LOWESTOFT. 47 
 
 advent of railways, the populations of Beccles and 
 Bungay were nearly indentical, namely, 4098 and 4109 ; 
 at the 1881 census, they were 5721 and 3579 respec- 
 tively. The water carriage with Yarmouth, Lowes- 
 toft, and other places, greatly favours Beccles, and 
 thus, by securing it greater commercial privileges, at 
 the same time advances its population and prosperity. 
 
 There is very little of interest to see in the town, 
 which is divided into two parishes, St. Mary and 
 Holy Trinity. The parish church of the latter is an 
 ancient little building, with a round, flint tower ; while 
 that of St. Mary is a much larger structure, and of 
 some architectural importance. There is a capital 
 free grammar school, of ancient but uncertain foun- 
 dation, which annually sends four scholars to Emanuel 
 College, Cambridge. The market day is Thursday ; 
 but the market cannot compare with that of the 
 sister town, Beccles. The situation of the town is 
 pleasant, and the streets well laid out. 
 
 The Waveney, after passing, at the east end of the 
 town, the bridge uniting the counties of Norfolk and 
 Suffolk, describes a most eccentric course, and, after 
 flowing a distance of three-and-a-half or four miles, 
 again passes the town at the south-east bridge, 
 which is only about 500 or 600 yards from that 
 first mentioned. From Bungay the river is only 
 navigable for small boats, which may ascend for 
 several miles ; flowing past Harleston and Diss, 
 it takes its rise at the little hamlet of Lopham, in 
 Norfolk, in a swampy land, and at a distance of a 
 
THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 stone's throw from the source of the Little Ouse, 
 which river, east and north, completes the boundary 
 of the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk. So close 
 are the sources of these two rivers, that a man with 
 a spade might, in a few days, make the county an 
 island ! 
 
 From Bungay, Norwich may be reached in an hour 
 and a quarter ; so that, if you take a man from 
 Lowestoft with you, to take back the boat, you need 
 not retrace your steps (figurative ones) along the 
 Waveney. 
 
 The epithet, '' Silly Suffolk,'' as it is generally 
 written and pronounced, is incorrect, and a libel on 
 the industrious and sharp people of that county. 
 The word " silly " is a corruption of the Saxon 
 '' selli," which means happy, not fooHsh, as some 
 would have us believe. 
 
 We must, after a good night's rest, return early 
 in the morning, along the Waveney, to the entrance 
 to the New Cut, as we purpose paying a short visit 
 to the extremely ancient and interesting city of 
 Norwich. The whole of the river Waveney, from 
 Bungay to the New Cut, is a noted pike ground, 
 and on" good authority I have it that, during 
 February of this year (1887), nearly 300 pike and 
 jack were taken by members of the angling clubs. 
 
O ^ 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 
 
 O, Life is a river, and man is the boat 
 That over its surface is destined to float ; 
 While joy is a cargo so easily stored, 
 That he is a fool who takes sorrow aboard. 
 — Jeffreys. 
 
 f-lr^jHE Yare, from which Yarmouth derives its 
 V3i^^ name, takes its rise at Shiphdam, near East 
 «*^1^"' Dereham, flows eastward thirty miles to the 
 junction of the Wensum, continues in a tortuous line 
 twenty miles farther to its union with the Waveney, and 
 expands into a large lake, called Breydon Water, at 
 the east end of which it receives the Bure, whence it 
 continues its course to the sea, a total distance of 
 about sixty miles. 
 
 The Waveney has its source at Lopham, only a 
 few yards from where the Little Ouse rises, and after 
 running a course of fifty miles, falls into the west end 
 of Breydon Water. 
 
 The Bure rises at Melton Constable, and flows in a 
 south-east direction past Blickling, Aylsham, and 
 
 E 
 
50 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Wroxham, until it reaches St. Benet's Abbey, where it 
 receives the waters of the River Ant, and, a little 
 farther on, the inconsiderable stream of the Thurne ; 
 thence it runs past Acle, and finally flows into Breydon, 
 after a journey of fifty miles. 
 
 By going through the New Cut, three miles long, 
 which connects the Waveney with the Yare, instead 
 of going via Breydon, we save twelve miles on our 
 way to Norwich. A toll of i^-. is demanded for each 
 yacht passing through, which is collected at Haddiscoe 
 Lift Bridge, by a man who hands a bag to you fixed 
 to the top of a long pole. As the banks are firm all 
 along, many anglers prefer a roving commission on 
 them to a fixed tenure in a boat. 
 
 On emerging at the other end of the Cut, we find 
 the village of Reedham before us. This place is 
 noted as having been the seat of the East Anglian 
 kings, and it was here that Lothbrock the Dane was 
 murdered. As few persons know who this personage 
 was, perhaps it will not be out of place here if I 
 give the story in a very brief manner: Lothbrock, or 
 Lodrobrog, was a Danish chief ; and one day, while 
 hawking for birds among the islands on the coast of 
 Denmark, he was surprised by a sudden storm, 
 driven across the North Sea, and found himself at 
 the mouth of the Yare, which he entered, and landed 
 at Reedham, where the Court of Edmund, King of 
 the East Angles, was at that time held. He was 
 received into Royal favour, and, in hunting, was 
 frequently attended by the king's huntsman, Bern, 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 51 
 
 whom he soon excelled in his own profession. Bern 
 became jealous, and at length murdered Lothbrock 
 in the woods; but the murder came to light through 
 the affection of Lothbrock's dog. Bern was tried, 
 and condemned to be cast away in a boat. Strangely- 
 enough, he drifted to the coast of Denmark, where, 
 being tortured on the rack, to learn what he knew of 
 Lothbrock's death, he concealed his own guilt, and 
 attributed the assassination to King Edmund. The 
 consequence was that 20,000 Danes, under the leader- 
 ship of Hinguar and Hubba, invaded East Anglia, 
 burned and slaughtered indiscriminately as they went, 
 overcame Edmund, took him prisoner, and, after a 
 mock trial, beheaded him. This put an end to the 
 Saxon dynasty in East Anglia, about the year 
 870 A.D. 
 
 Yachts, unless very small, will have to wait at 
 Reedham for the swing railway bridge to be opened 
 before they can pass. I would call the attention 
 of my readers to this bridge, which is supported in 
 the centre by a huge column rising from the river; 
 and upon this column it swings, on a pivot, parallel 
 to the course of the river, to allow vessels to pass. 
 The church (St. John the Baptist) contains a hand- 
 some marble monument, with effigies of Thomas 
 Guybon, his wife and children. Most of the tablets 
 here are memorials of the Berney family, one of 
 whom built the Hall, in 1557. Dwellers in towns will 
 be surprised at the extent of the marshes, and the 
 number of cattle in these parts. Hundreds of oxen 
 
 E 2 
 
52 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 stare at us listlessly as we pass, chewing their cud in 
 perfect contentment and undisturbed peace, or standing 
 knee-deep in the cool water, putting one in mind 'of 
 some of the cattle pictures by the old Dutch painters. 
 On the left, at the mouth of a small stream, the 
 Chet, stands Hardley Cross, marking the boun- 
 dary of the jurisdiction of Norwich. The Chet, or 
 Ket, as it is commonly called, is a river, or rivulet, 
 taking its rise at the village of Poringland ; its entire 
 course is not more than twelve or fourteen miles. 
 There are only two or three small villages on its 
 banks (none of any note), and the one considerable 
 town of Loddon, five miles from its mouth. The im- 
 portance of Loddon may be estimated from the fact 
 that it is actually lighted with gas ! It must not be 
 inferred that this has caused the town to become 
 inflated, for, according to the last census, its popula- 
 tion was under 1,200. Nevertheless, it is a thriving 
 little town, and does a good trade with both Yar- 
 mouth and Norwich. It stands on an eminence over- 
 looking the river, and consists of one long High 
 Street, with the usual little "backbone-like," short 
 turnings, branching therefrom. A conspicuous object 
 is the Church of the Holy Trinity, built, in the reign 
 of Henry VIII., by Sir James Hobart, a curious por- 
 trait of whom, and his wife, may be seen in the 
 church. In the same painting are representations of 
 the church and the town bridge (St. Olave's), which 
 latter was built, by Lady Hobart, at the same time 
 as the church. In the north aisle of the church is a 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 53 
 
 marble altar-tomb, with a recumbent effigy of Lady- 
 Williamson, dated 1684. The register dates from 
 1556. The east window is filled with a poor speci- 
 men of early-modern stained glass, which was placed 
 in position about fifty years since, at a cost of ;£i6o. 
 There is a Town Hall and fire-engine house also 
 in this little self-reliant town. 
 
 The Chet, or Ket, is navigable for wherries quite up 
 to Loddon, and for small boats some distance higher. 
 Chedgrave is a small village on the right bank, and 
 within a few minutes' walk of Loddon ; its church is 
 worthy of a visit, to inspect the old Norman doorway 
 and stained-glass windows. Heckingham, on the left 
 bank, is worth landing at, to see the church, which is 
 quite 700 years old, or even more ; it is principally 
 of the Norman style of architecture. It is a small, 
 thatched building, with a round tower, containing two 
 bells. This is to avoid the monotony of a single 
 tone ; and so, on a Sunday morning, when tired 
 of ringing "ding-dong," the ringers can produce a 
 pleasant variety by ringing '' dong-ding." Several, in 
 fact many, of the churches hereabout, have thus reck- 
 lessly secured the same number of bells, so that the 
 inhabitants may practise that very simple and easily- 
 learnt pastime of change-ringing. Mundham St. Peter, 
 on the left bank, about two miles past Loddon, has a 
 church of ancient origin, many portions of it being 
 Norman work ; it is dedicated to St. Peter. The 
 remains of another church, dedicated to St. Ethel- 
 bert, may also be seen. 
 
54 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The Chet is excessively quiet, and nobody seems 
 to dream of leaving the broad bosom of the Yare 
 for this little arm, v^hich is well worthy of a visit. 
 With a fair wind, a small sailing boat could, by 
 catching the first of the flood tide, reach Loddon in 
 four or five hours ; a sight of the Loddon lions could 
 be enjoyed, lunch despatched, and, by catching the 
 ebb, Yarmouth again reached the same evening. The 
 distance from Yarmouth to Loddon is from fourteen 
 to fifteen miles. 
 
 We resume our journey up the Yare : three miles 
 past Hardley Cross, on the right, we come to Cantley. 
 The " Red House " here is a noted fishing resort, being 
 close to the railway station, and only a half-hour's 
 ride from Norwich. The church is dedicated to 
 St. Margaret; it is built in the Norman and Per- 
 pendicular styles, and has a register dating from 
 A.D. 1559. 
 
 On the left, half a mile inland, is Langley Abbey, 
 or Priory, built, in 1198, by Roger Fitzroger, for an 
 abbot and sixteen canons of the Praemonstratensian 
 order. The ample endowment of the founder was 
 confirmed by King John, who granted to the parish 
 a market and fair, with sac, soc, and other privileges. 
 A stone cross, upon which are four statues, formerly 
 stood close by, but has been removed to Langley 
 Park, a splendid estate of 800 acres, and the seat of 
 Sir Reginald Beauchamp. The hall is a veritable 
 treasure-house of art, being filled with busts, paintings, 
 and statues. The fine church of St. Michael contains 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 65 
 
 several handsome stained-glass windows, memorials 
 of the Beauchamp family, which are alone worth a 
 visit. 
 
 On the left bank, opposite Cantley, is Claxton, 
 which is a nice walk from the river. The church 
 (St. Andrew) contains tablets to the Gawdy, Bushby, 
 Rouse, and other families. The manor house, of 
 which the remains still exist, belonged, in the reign 
 of Edward III., to the Kerdiston family. This monarch 
 gave them the right to castellate and fortify their 
 mansion. 
 
 A dyke on the right, a mile or so past Langley, 
 leads to Buckenham Broad (of inconsiderable size) ; 
 while a little further on is Buckenham Ferry, where 
 we will step ashore and sit under the cool, shady 
 trees of the inn garden, which abuts on the river, 
 and refresh ourselves. Plenty of fish are to be caught 
 here, and large ones too, as the river is, in most 
 places, some 12ft. or 14ft. deep. A walk of a hundred 
 yards from the inn will give the visitor a good 
 view of a fen, both for extent and flatness. Water- 
 dykes are seen on every side, and care should be 
 taken in walking, if a stroll is desired, that you do 
 not get into a boggy spot, where you will be up 
 to your knees in black peat mud in a moment. 
 
 The church (St. Nicholas) is an ancient edifice, 
 and contains a font of the fifteenth century, which, 
 on being restored, brought to light a number of 
 emblematic carvings. The east window represents 
 St. Nicholas and the four Evangelists. The knightly 
 
56 THE LAND OF THE RROADS. 
 
 family of Godsalve were lords of the manor till the 
 reign of Queen Mary, and their arms may still be 
 seen in the carved wainscot of the Hall, which build- 
 ing is now let out in cottages. 
 
 A mile further up, on the left, we come to the 
 only navigable dyke of the five leading to Rockland 
 Broad. As this is greatly overgrown with weeds, 
 we will take the jolly boat, as we shall not stay there 
 long. The pull up is very pretty, as we are hemmed 
 in on both sides by rushes, reeds, and all kinds of 
 aquatic plants and flowers. We find the Broad, upon 
 which we suddenly emerge, a very wild-looking place, 
 choked with weeds and reeds. Eels literally swarm 
 among these reeds. A man in a boat at a distance 
 is catching them, so we will endeavour to find our 
 way to him along the sinuous channels, and watch 
 him. He proceeds with his business thus : He has a 
 square-mouthed net, about 3ft. across, and only about 
 I ft. deep, the mouth of which is kept extended by a 
 strong iron rim, which is fixed in a short handle- 
 This net he thrusts down among the weeds, and 
 brings it up as full of them as he can lift ; he care- 
 fully sorts these over, and throws them away, the eels 
 remaining behind at the bottom of the net. They 
 are then transferred to a trunk pierced with holes, 
 and if this be kept in water, the eels will remain 
 alive until wanted for market. We purchase half a 
 stone of him for 3s., and thread our way back to the 
 entrance of the dyke (locally pronounced "deek''). 
 By the way, speaking of eels, is it not generally 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 
 
 57 
 
 thought that they have no scales, but simply a slimy 
 skin ? This is certainly an error, as they have minute 
 scales, which are, curiously enough, under the skin^ 
 
 instead of outside, as in 
 other fishes. I would also 
 point out that there are 
 three species of eels, 
 which may be easily dis- 
 SHARP-NosED EEL. tiuguished I they are the 
 
 sharp-nosed eel, the broad-nosed eel, and the grig. 
 The two former have 
 dark, olive green skins, 
 while the latter has a 
 pale green, or celadon- 
 coloured skin, and is 
 not reckoned of so fine 
 a flavour as its darker 
 brethren. The natives 
 esteem the part from the vent to the tail as the 
 
 best part of the fish. The 
 back piece, immediately 
 behind the head, is looked 
 upon as a bonne bouche. 
 Rockland Broad does 
 Grig. not exhibit its full size, by 
 
 reason of the great reed-beds which are dispersed all 
 over it; but there cannot be much less than 120 acres. 
 Rockland St. Mary^s Church is a small, ancient Gothic 
 structure, situated on an eminence commanding an 
 extensive view. The churchyard contains the ivy- 
 
 Broad-nosed Eel. 
 
 -^n)y^^^tgii-^om 
 
58 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 covered ruins of the still older church of St. Margaret. 
 I think there are very few instances of two churches 
 in one churchyard. The register dates from A.D. 1558, 
 and for the first fifty years was kept in Latin. 
 
 Still bearing north by east foi: a couple of miles, 
 we come to Coldham Hall, on the left bank ; this is 
 another favourite "angler's delight.'' In the season, 
 many fishing matches take place at staked swims 
 at this spot. The weighing-in, in the evening, is a 
 sight worth seeing, as not only are the takes great, 
 but there are also some fine specimens of the finny 
 tribes among them. Bream of extraordinary size are 
 taken, weighing up to 5lbs. and even 61bs. The nearest 
 station is Brundall, three-quarters of a mile off, on 
 the opposite side of the Yare. 
 
 Midway between Buckenham and Brundall is the 
 village of Strumpshaw, standing on very high ground ; 
 indeed, the windmill is supposed to stand on the 
 highest hill in the county, and from it may be 
 obtained one of the finest views. On a clear day 
 Norwich and Yarmouth are plainly visible, while to 
 the N.N.E. may be seen the two white towers of 
 Happisburgh Lighthouses. "^^ To the south, the view 
 extends to the borders of Suffolk. This lofty eminence 
 would appear to have been cast up by the sea at some 
 remote period, as looft. below the surface of the 
 summit, boulder stones are found similar to those on 
 the coast adjoining Yarmouth. 
 
 From Buckenham Ferry to Norwich, a distance of 
 * The Low Light was demolished in 1886. 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 59 
 
 about ten miles, scores of "brethren of the angle" 
 may be seen, on any fine evening in summer, plying 
 their peaceful avocation ; and yet there is room for 
 many more, and fish enough for all and to spare, 
 so long as fair angling only is practised and nets 
 are not used. Speaking of the angle, is it generally 
 known that angling is mentioned in the Bible in 
 one or two places, notably in Amos iv. 2 (B.C. 787) ; 
 Isaiah xix. 8 (B.C. 714) ; and again in Habakkuk 
 i. 15 (B.C. 625) ? I cannot say if these are the only 
 references made to angling in the Bible, or other 
 authentic book, or whether they are the earhest. 
 Angling appears to have been pursued by the 
 Egyptians and Romans, much in the same way as 
 in our own day. Figures of persons angling occur 
 frequently in paintings from the Egyptian tombs, 
 and also on the walls of the buried city of Hercu- 
 laneum. In a painting from Beni-Hassan, the rod, 
 much shorter than the modern ones, is shown in one 
 piece, and no float is represented on the line, which 
 appears to be a very coarse one. Most of the 
 ancient lines were, I believe, like some of the modern 
 ones, made of horse-hair. 
 
 Coldham Hall stands close to SurUngham Broad, 
 which is nearly a mile long, and about a quarter of 
 a mile wide. This Broad is also much grown up with 
 weeds. Being particularly well watched, this lake 
 acts as a kind of harbour of refuge for young fish, 
 nets being strictly tabooed — as they should be, but 
 are not, on all the other Broads. Surlingham Broad 
 
60 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 has an outlet into the river both at the east and 
 west ends, so that many persons, while the yacht 
 keeps to the river, take the jolly boat and pull across 
 it, exploring its beauties on the way, and meeting 
 the yacht at the other entrance. 
 
 The village contains two churches, St. Mary's and 
 St. Saviour's ; of the latter little more than the name 
 remains, as the church was in ruins in Queen 
 Elizabeth's reign. 
 
 From Brundall to Norwich is, without doubt, the 
 finest part of the Yare, as the banks are well wooded, 
 and the general aspect exceedingly varied and pleasant. 
 The Wood's End hostelry, at Bramerton, should on 
 no account be passed without a visit, as its grounds, 
 covering nearly seven acres, are very tastefully laid 
 out. The natural beauty of the hilly ground has been 
 so helped by artificial means and good gardening, 
 that these well-known pleasure gardens are now justly 
 celebrated for their rustic elegance. Mount the 
 winding path, to the highest part of the garden, and 
 take in at a glance the tortuous course of the Yare 
 and the surrounding country, and it will be confessed 
 that the view is a lovely one. 
 
 Bramerton village lies a mile back from the river, 
 at the rear of the hills, but is not remarkable for 
 anything out of the common. The church, dedicated 
 to St. Peter, is built in the Early English style, though 
 not during that period of architecture, as it was not 
 erected till the year 1462, whereas the Early English 
 style of building died out about A.D. 1300, when its 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 61 
 
 place was taken by the Perpendicular style. The 
 reaches about Bramerton are noted pike haunts. An 
 angler, on one Sunday during January of this year 
 {1887), took seventeen pike, of an aggregate weight 
 of 931b., the largest being a long fish, in poor con- 
 dition, weighing 131b. 
 
 Continuing our course, we soon reach Postwick 
 Grove, which consists of a long, red sand hill, covered 
 with gorse and wild plants, and crowned with patriarchal 
 oak and elm trees.. As you will observe, this Grove 
 must have been planted by the riverside for the purpose 
 of providing a picnic ground for the populous city of 
 Norwich. In fact, nothing could be better for the 
 purpose, and the surroundings are such as to frame 
 the picture formed by the picnic party and their craft. 
 After passing the Grove, and making several windings, 
 we see on the right the immense block of buildings 
 called Thorpe Asylum ; it usually contains about 600 
 poor imbeciles and lunatics, and is the asylum for the 
 county. The part built of white brick was erected 
 about 18 1 4, while that of red brick is quite a recent 
 addition. 
 
 On the left bank an object will be noticed which 
 usually causes the sketch-book to make its appearance, 
 and a halt to be called. This is the *' Monkey House." 
 a cottage built in the days of Good Queen Bess, and 
 of a very picturesque appearance. It is so infirm 
 from old age, that it has to be propped up to prevent 
 it from committing suicide by tumbling headlong into 
 the river. It. stands in solitary decay,, a conspicuous 
 
62 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 object, with its stunted fir trees, cabbage patch, and 
 fen surroundings — a fit subject for the sketch-block. 
 
 Half a mile more brings us to Whitlingham, with 
 its tree-covered hills, and conspicuously and romantically 
 situated church, which forms a fine ivy-clad ruin. This 
 church is planted right upon the edge of a precipitous, 
 w^ooded hill, from which a good view of the surrounding 
 district is obtained. The circular tower is nearly 
 intact, but the church itself 
 is roofless, and the interior 
 contains a congregation of 
 trees, in flourishing condi- 
 tion. The tower is sur- 
 mounted by four figures, 
 symbolical of the four 
 Evangelists. These stone 
 figures, according to local 
 tradition, walk round the 
 edge of the tower at mid- 
 night, meet, shake hands, ^arly English window in tower op 
 
 ^^A 4-k^,^ ^^r.,,r~^^ 4-1.^: ^^: Whitlingham Church. 
 
 and then resume tneir posi- 
 tions. This sight cannot be seen by married persons ! 
 After passing Whitlingham Church a few hundred 
 yards, we come to a broad, river-like cutting, right in 
 front of us, and which looks a very inviting piece 
 of water, and loses itself in leafy shade in the dis- 
 tance. As there is a boom across the mouth, how- 
 ever, it is obvious that it is private property. This 
 is the waterway to the estate of Mr. J. Colman, the 
 " Mustard King," whose immense works at Carrow 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 63 
 
 employ nearly looo men. We turn sharp to the right, 
 pass beneath the wooden arches of the railway bridge, 
 and find ourselves at the Thorpe Tea Gardens, which 
 are so much frequented by the Norwich young men and 
 maidens in the summer months. The correct thing 
 seems to be for the young people, who leave off business 
 early on Thursday afternoons, to walk to Thorpe, dis- 
 tance two miles, partake of some light refreshment, and 
 then go for a long row or sail until dusk, when they 
 return, and enjoy the stroll home again to Norwich. 
 As we glide past the village of Thorpe, we cannot 
 help being struck by the beauty of its situation. There 
 it is, nestling on the declivity of a well-wooded hill, 
 from which the suburban red houses of the Norwich 
 magnates peep out, and look down upon the Yare 
 which, a little higher up, turns off to the left, and our 
 course is thence along the Wensum, which runs quite 
 through the heart of Norwich. It always appeared to 
 me, that the river along which we have come so far, 
 and which runs straight ahead through Norwich, should 
 be still called the Yare, instead of the Wensum. It 
 appears to me, that the river which comes in so 
 abruptly from the left (the Yare) should be styled the 
 Wensum. Probably, time has given them such right 
 to their names, bestowed some centuries since, that 
 they will not alter them to agree with my fancy. 
 
 Thorpe is certainly a lovely little hamlet during 
 the summer months, and its flowers, in every con- 
 ceivable colour, its woody hills, its glittering, sun- 
 kissed waters, would tempt a hermit from his cave, 
 
64 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 especially if his said cave were in one of those awful 
 back slums of Norwich yclept a " yard." The church 
 is a new structure ; but an idea of the diminutive 
 proportions of the old edifice may be obtained by 
 landing and viewing its ruins ; its tower forms a 
 lych-gate to the new structure. One wall (the south) 
 still stands, and shows the length of the building. It 
 was, with one exception, the smallest church in Eng- 
 land, that exception being St. Lawrence, in the 
 Isle of Wight. Thorpe Old Church and the porch of 
 Yarmouth Parish Church were identical in size. 
 
 A few minutes now suffices to bring us to Carrow 
 Bridge, in juxtaposition with which stands the im- 
 mense factory of Messrs. Colman. An order to inspect 
 this firm's premises may be obtained at the office. 
 
 Immediately after passing Carrow Bridge, we notice 
 the ruins of two venerable circular flint towers, one 
 on either side of the river. These are the Boom or 
 Toll Towers, which, with the city walls, have been 
 allowed gradually to decay, as their functions have 
 long since passed away. Formerly no vessel was 
 allowed to pass these towers (which mark the city 
 boundary) without having first paid certain dues 
 towards maintaining the dredging of the river, the 
 repair of its banks, &c. These towers also formed a 
 military post in war time, and were strongly fortified 
 On the hills, near the left bank of the river, will be 
 noticed the remains of other towers, which were 
 occupied, when necessary, by a company of soldiers, 
 lo support their comrades on the river. All is now 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 65 
 
 brick and mortar on our left, and the broad tow-path 
 and flats on our right. The next bridge is the new 
 Foundry Bridge, erected in 1885, to take the place 
 of the narrow and inconvenient iron structure which 
 had for years spanned the river, and congested the 
 traffic at this point. The large building on the right 
 is the new railway station of the Great Eastern Rail- 
 way, which is as perfect in its arrangements, and as 
 handsome in structure, as the old one (now the goods 
 station) was inadequate and ugly. A hundred yards 
 brings us to Pull's Ferry, which was, at some remote 
 period, the water-gate of the cathedral. The road 
 beyond the ancient structure leads direct to the 
 cathedral, of which more anon. Here we will land, 
 and pay a visit to the lions of the most ancient and 
 quaint city of Norwich. 
 
 The trip from Lowestoft is about thirty miles, parts 
 of which are certainly somewhat tame ; but the last 
 six miles of varying landscape have amply repaid us 
 for making the excursion. From Brundall to Nor- 
 wich the scenery is very sylvan : green, undulating 
 meadows ; peaceful and. picturesquely-disposed groups 
 of parti-coloured cattle, quietly browsing; tree-crowned 
 hills, with here and there the grey, ivy-covered, flint 
 tower of an ancient church peeping out ; or passing 
 glimpses of red sand hills, covered with gorse and 
 its yellow blossom ; the bright and balmy air, the 
 singing of birds, the hum of bees, and the fragrant 
 perfume of flowers — all serve to make this part of 
 the river supremely enchanting. 
 
 F 
 
66 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The Wensum, from Pull's Ferry, winds about, in 
 a most eccentric manner, quite through the heart of 
 the city, and its fringe of tumble-down, overhanging 
 houses and warehouses, form endless themes for the 
 pencil and brush of the artist. Some of the river- 
 side houses, with their old, open timberwork sides 
 and gables, make capital water-colour subjects, and 
 are being continually sketched by both visitors and 
 local artists. I would advise strangers not to pass 
 beyond Pull's Ferry with their yacht, but to visit this 
 waterway in the dinghy, or a boat hired for the pur- 
 pose, as some of the bridges are very narrow and 
 awkward. Bishop's Bridge dates from the thirteenth 
 century, and, with Pull's Ferry, has been photographed, 
 sketched, and painted far more than the most famous 
 society beauty. 
 
 Before closing this chapter, we will just glance 
 briefly at the chief characteristics of the Norfolk 
 churches, which are far more numerous than those of 
 any other county, not even excepting gigantic York- 
 shire. The total number of churches in the county is 
 upwards of 760. Many of them are not only ancient 
 edifices, but are very fine specimens of the periods in 
 which they were built. They are remarkable for their 
 carved oak chancel screens, some of which cannot be 
 surpassed in the delicacy of their tracery, and the skill 
 shown in their intricate carving. Some of them are 
 quite unique, having no peer in England. That in 
 Worstead Church is a double one, of splendid work- 
 manship, with paintings of various saints, and is the 
 
LOWESTOFT TO NORWICH. 67 
 
 only one of its kind in England; while that of Ran- 
 worth is considered the ideal of a painted screen of 
 the fifteenth century. 
 
 The stone and wood carver will find plenty to 
 admire and study, and may quickly fill his sketch- 
 book with curious gargoyles, corbels, finials, old fonts, 
 and many other specimens of genuine thirteenth and 
 fourteenth century carving. 
 
 Vandalism has, in some churches, run riot. Wall 
 paintings have been plastered or whitewashed over, 
 carved panels cemented up, and brasses taken from 
 the walls for old metal, to the disgust of the modern 
 aesthete. 
 
 The high-backed pews, which are fast disappearing, 
 are not of such antiquity as many persons suppose. 
 They are not older than the time of Queen Mary, 
 and their use came about in this way. Bishop Burnet 
 complained to Her Majesty that he could not fix the 
 attention of the Court ladies, who took more interest 
 in their own and others' finery than in his discourse, 
 and desired the queen to have the pews made much 
 higher. She consented, and the high-backed, head- 
 topping pew was the result. So successful and snug 
 were they, that they were soon imitated in other 
 churches, and quickly became general all over the 
 country. Now, after a century and a half, they are 
 rapidly dying out, and will soon become a thing of the 
 past. I am certainly glad I am not a boy now ; for I 
 should not be able to enjoy a juicy apple, some sweets, 
 or a half-hour's nap, as I used to do when a little 
 
 F 2 
 
68 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 fellow, thirty years ago, in the cosy corner of the 
 pew ; that is, when I was not hauled out and seated 
 on the pulpit stairs, by the sexton, for persistent 
 talking, and asking irrelevant questions aloud. But, 
 apart from the apple-eating seclusiveness of the high- 
 backed pews, I think they had little else to recom- 
 mend them. 
 
 In many instances, fonts have been restored, and 
 from shapeless masses of cement or plaster, have 
 become, by careful restoration, beautiful specimens of 
 fourteenth and fifteenth-century stonework. 
 
 It is worth one's while to ascend one of the grand 
 old flint towers, and gaze around at the country, 
 spread for miles at one's feet, like a huge map. You 
 can trace the courses of the various streams, meander- 
 ing away as far as the eye can reach, till they are 
 lost in the blue distance. It is curious to note the 
 number of feet and hands cut on the leads of these 
 church towers, most of them with initials and dates 
 added. 
 
 It will be remarked that the boots, at the end of 
 the last century, nearly came to a point at the toe, 
 instead of being almost square, as at the present day. 
 
 As Norwich is such an interesting place, we will 
 make it the subject-matter of an entire chapter. 
 
 ■«>*^ 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH, 
 
 ^^p-ORWICH, in point of quaintness and anti- 
 quity, will vie with any English city, not 
 even the old city of Chester excepted. 
 Although it stands somewhat lower than the adjacent 
 country, it has the appearance, to a person walking 
 in its streets, of being built upon a hill, the apex of 
 which is crowned by the Castle. It is built totally 
 regardless of any pretension to preconceived ground 
 plan, its streets meandering about in all kinds of 
 eccentric curves and irregular turnings. There is 
 no such thing as a level street in the city : those 
 which do not go up, go down, but never for a hun- 
 dred yards keep a decent level. They are also very 
 narrow (except one, the Prince of Wales Road) ; and 
 as the old houses, in many places, greatly overhang 
 the yard-wide pavement, it is anything but pleasant 
 to walk through one of them in wet weather, as there 
 is a constant drip of water off the eaves of the 
 houses. The side walks being so very narrow neces- 
 sitates many pilgrimages along the gutter when one 
 of the fair sex claims right of way. 
 
70 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Norwich is so old that the date of its birth has 
 been forgotten by its mother — England. Many absurd 
 legends are extant as to the foundation of the city, 
 some of them making Julius Csesar its builder. 
 Although Caesar was, undoubtedly, dead long before 
 Norwich was thought of, it is very probable that the 
 town had a Roman origin, or, rather, the Romans 
 were indirectly instrumental in its being built. Thus, 
 when the Romans quitted Britain, A.D. 426, they 
 vacated the town of Venta Icenorum, upon which the 
 present Caister now stands, three miles south of 
 Norwich. Forsaken by its founders, the fortified town 
 soon fell into decay ; and twenty years later we find 
 that the inhabitants migrated to higher ground, and 
 there settled, gradually building a walled town, which 
 was the foundation of the present city. Norwich 
 may therefore claim a pedigree of fourteen-and-a-half 
 centuries, dating, as it does, from A.D. 446. 
 
 The following couplet would appear from this to 
 have much truth in it: — 
 
 Caister was a city when Norwich was none, 
 And Norwich was built with Caister stone. 
 
 To Uffa, first King of East Anglia, A.D. 575, we are 
 indebted for the commencement of the Castle, which 
 was in those days merely an enormous entrenchment 
 of earth and defensive ramparts, three times circHng 
 the stronghold. Northwic, as it was anciently called, 
 was, at the commencement of the seventh century, 
 more strongly guarded by a Castle, erected by 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 71 
 
 another Anglian king — Anna — who gave it, and the 
 adjoining lands, to his daughter Ethelfreda, on her 
 marriage with Tombert, chief of the Gyrvii, or Fen- 
 men. From this period till the time of Alfred the 
 Great, the Castle was constantly changing hands, 
 being taken and retaken by both Saxons and Danes. 
 Alfred, in 870, took the Castle, and, finding its 
 defences weak, had the walls and principal parts 
 built of stronger and more durable material. This 
 Castle lasted many years, but, at the advent of the 
 Conqueror, was in such a dilapidated condition, from 
 the frequency of its sieges, that one of William's 
 earls, Roger Bigod, rebuilt it entirely. In the reign 
 of Edward II. it was greatly beautified and repaired 
 by Thomas de Brotherton. It is calculated that 
 more men have been slaughtered in the defence of 
 this Castle than of any other place in England. Its 
 history is exceedingly interesting, and is inseparably 
 associated with the history of England in the Dark 
 Ages. The Castle, as known in modern times, con- 
 sists simply of the keep and outer vallum. The 
 keep is in perfect condition ; it is an oblong building, 
 iioft. by 93ft., and rises to the height of iioft. It 
 is at present the county gaol, and may be viewed on 
 certain days by a magistrate's order ; but during the 
 current year (1887) it is to be transformed into a 
 county museum, in commemoration of the fiftieth 
 year of the reign of Queen Victoria. 
 
 The Cathedral, whose lofty spire (second to but one 
 in the kingdom — that of Salisbury) serves as a land- 
 
72 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 mark for many miles, was commenced in 1096, by- 
 Herbert de Losigna, who was afterwards its first 
 bishop. His successor, Eborard, nearly completed the 
 fabric; but it was not fitted and finished till 1171, in 
 which year it was greatly damaged by fire, but was 
 restored by Bishop Oxford in 1197. In 1272 it was 
 partially destroyed by fire, and many of the monks 
 slain by the incensed citizens, as a punishment for 
 the disorderly conduct by which they had long dis- 
 graced their religion. Like a phoenix, from its ashes 
 it rose again in 1278. The cloisters, said to be the 
 finest in England, were commenced in 1297, and were 
 not finished till 1430. 
 
 In 1798, a sailor-boy obtained admission to the 
 tower, and ascended the interior till he reached the 
 top window, but this not being high enough for his 
 liking, he got out of the window, and ascended quite 
 to the weathercock, by using the crockets for a foot- 
 hold. He came down quite safe and unconcerned. 
 
 In 1361, the Cathedral was again in peril, for in 
 that year a violent hurricane blew down the upper 
 part of the steeple, and greatly injured the choir. 
 The present lofty steeple was then erected, and reaches 
 an altitude of 313ft. In 1460, great damage was 
 done by lightning; in 1509, fire was again at work in 
 the aisles of the transepts ; and, for the second time, 
 in 1 60 1 the steeple was struck and greatly damaged 
 by lightning. Having encountered the fury of fire, 
 wind, and lightning, it now met with a new assailant 
 — man. Those fanatical zealots, the Puritans, com- 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 
 
 73 
 
 pletely wrecked the interior, defaced the ornaments 
 and sculptured effigies, smashed the beautiful stained- 
 glass windows and organ, filed the bells, and stole no 
 less than one hundred brasses. At the Restoration, 
 the Cathedral was again restored and refitted, and 
 since that time has not been interfered with. Its 
 principal dimensions are as follows : — Length from 
 east to west, 407ft. ; breadth across transepts, 178ft. ; 
 length of nave, from west door to screen, 204ft. ; 
 breadth of nave and side aisles, 78ft. The cloisters 
 form a square of 174ft. within the walls. Strangely 
 enough, nearly all the windows are divided, by upright 
 mullions, into three divisions. Notice the beautiful 
 roof, the altar-tombs of Bishop Goldwell (1472) and 
 Bishop Bathurst (1805), and the very fine stained-glass 
 windows. 
 
 In various parts of the interior may be seen good 
 
 specimens of carved work. The 
 
 accompanying engraving repre- 
 sents a panel bearing an heraldic 
 device, noticeable for its distinct- 
 ness and simplicity of design. 
 
 The roof of the nave is studded 
 with carved bosses, upwards of 
 three hundred in number, repre- 
 senting Bible history, from the time of Solomon to 
 Christ. A pair of opera glasses will be necessary to 
 see these properly. 
 
 The Bishop's Palace is an ancient building, adjoin- 
 
 Panel— Norwich 
 Cathedral. 
 
 ing the north side of the Cathedral, one of the rooms 
 
74 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 of which is lined with fine carved oak wainscot, 
 brought from St. Benet's Abbey, by Bishop Rugg. 
 The Bishop's Chapel is at the east end of the Palace, 
 and was built in 1662. 
 
 I would particularly call attention to the gateways 
 leading to the Cathedral. That leading to the west 
 front of the Cathedral is called Erpingham Gate, from 
 Sir Thomas Erpingham having built it, in the year 
 1383, as a penance for having espoused the cause of 
 Wickliffe. This gateway is considered a fine piece of 
 work ; no less than thirty-eight small stone figures are 
 
 Flintwork Masonry in St. Ethelbert's Gateway, Norwich 
 Cathedral. 
 
 dispersed over it, standing in niches beneath canopies. 
 In a niche in the pediment is a kneeling figure, sup- 
 posed to be Sir Thomas as a penitent ; the word 
 poena (punishment) is carved on many of the scrolls. 
 The two figures which crown the buttresses, or piers, 
 on either side, are representative of a secular and 
 an ordained priest of the Middle Ages, but are now 
 so worn with wind and weather, that their distinctive 
 features are almost obliterated. St. Ethelbert's Gate 
 was built by the citizens as a penalty for having 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 75 
 
 destroyed the old gate and church of St. Ethelbert, 
 when they made their fatal raid on the monks in 1272. 
 Some of the elaborate stone and flint-work for which 
 the gateway is remarkable is shown on the opposite 
 page. The niches in this gate are mostly empty ; but 
 one or two figures still remain, notably one which 
 represents a man (possibly St. George), with sword 
 and round shield, attacking a dragon. There is a 
 large room over this gateway, which forms a council- 
 chamber for the clergy of the city, and for other 
 clerical purposes. 
 
 There are upwards of forty churches in Norwich, 
 most of them very ancient, and containing many 
 things nearly as old as the fabrics themselves — stained- 
 glass windows, fonts, screens, wall paintings, brasses, 
 monumental tombs and tablets, and no end of archaeo- 
 logical treasures in stone and wood carvings. And 
 the bells of these churches ! Edgar Allen Poe might 
 have added another verse to his poem ''The Bells," 
 had his lot been cast in this city , for it is the 
 home, par excellence^ of English bellringers. I sup- 
 pose no other place in England can boast of so many 
 bellringers, or of such good ones, as Norwich. On 
 certain occasions the clamour of the bells is nearly 
 deafening. Fancy a score of peals ringing at the 
 same time ! — why, it out-Wagners Wagner for volume 
 of sound. 
 
 Rapidly we will glance at the chief architectural 
 points and most notable objects in the principal of 
 the ancient churches. First mention is claimed by 
 
76 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 St. Peter Mancroft, which is the largest and most 
 prominent, standing, as it does, overlooking the market- 
 place. It was restored only a few years since, at a 
 cost of ;£i4,ooo, the commission being placed in the 
 hands of the late Mr. Street, of Law Courts fame. 
 The tower was completely restored, at a cost of 
 several thousand pounds, and surmounted by a leaden 
 Fleche, 40ft. in height, making the total height from 
 the ground 150ft. From the tower a grand view of 
 the city, spread map-like around, is obtained, and w^ell 
 repays the toil of whirling upwards in the narrow, 
 circular stairway, a height of i loft. from the ground 
 line. Take the view from the top first, then on the 
 downward course you may examine the finest peal 
 of twelve bells in the kingdom at your leisure. The 
 weight of the full set is within a few pounds of 
 i84cwt. No doubt there are peals of eight bells of 
 equal tone, but this peal, as a set of twelve^ is 
 unequalled. In the ringing chamber, emblazoned 
 upon large boards attached to the walls, are the 
 records of the ringers, of which the Norwich 
 ringers are justly proud. One sets forth how, in 
 February, 1827, the herculean Sam. Thurston rang 
 the tenor bell, weighing 4icwt., unaided, and without 
 a rest, through a set of triple Bob Royals, containing 
 5040 changes. This was the first feat of the kind on 
 record. The immense east window is filled with 
 genuine fourteenth-century stained glass ; and there 
 are also several other modern painted windows, of 
 mediocre calibre. 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 77 
 
 The organ is a very fine one, with the ugliest set 
 of false front pipes in the world. They are typical 
 of a tidy builder's yard, being merely square wooden 
 troughs, set on their pointless ends, in a nearly per- 
 pendicular arrangement of crescendo and rallentando 
 as to size. 
 
 The very ancient font is covered with a wonderful 
 piece of carved and painted (Vandals !) tabernacle 
 work, of such dimensions as to form a kind of raised 
 baptistry. The tiara, or diminishing upper storey, 
 has fallen into such decay that it is taken down ; but 
 funds are being raised for its restoration. On the 
 wall behind the font is a large panel of tapestry, 
 representing the Ascension, and bearing the date 1573 ; 
 and over the south entrance hangs a large oil painting, 
 by Catton, a local artist, of Peter being released 
 from prison. 
 
 There is, in the vestry, a collection of rare old 
 manuscript books ; one of them, an illuminated Bible, 
 beautifully engrossed on vellum, bears the date A.D. 
 1340. Many other relics of past ages, as painted panels, 
 the disused fourteenth-century clock, a carved slab 
 of alabaster, &c., will be shown by the obliging verger. 
 The reredos is a very fine modern one, but its beauty 
 cannot be appreciated until a close inspection is 
 made, as the minutiae of its carved detail is lost in 
 the vastness of the cathedral-like church, when seen 
 from the middle of the nave. The present church 
 was dedicated in 1455, and its register, dating from 
 1650, may be seen in the vestry. The only thing 
 
78 ' THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 that could improve the noble interior is the insertion 
 of more stained glass, or, at least, obscured glass, as 
 the grandness is spoilt by the admission of too much 
 white light, which leaves every nook and corner 
 exposed, and thus detracts from the solemnity and 
 vastness of the building, by allowing the eye to pene- 
 trate too easily to the greatest height and length 
 of the church, whose size, to an ordinary mind, is thus 
 grasped at a glance. The deep shadows are entirely 
 missing — those dim depths of unknown extent are 
 absent ; and this shadowless nave is robbed of its 
 solemn awe and mysterious proportions by the ad- 
 mission of a much too brilliant and unsubdued light. 
 The clerestory windows, in fact, are in such close 
 contact, and of such unusual size, that they appear, 
 when seen from the outside, like one huge window, 
 running the whole length of the church. 
 
 St. Michael's Church should be seen by those in- 
 terested in the actual fabric of the building, as the 
 flintwork, formed into various Perpendicular patterns, 
 is second to none in the realm. The chancel is 
 especially well planned, the walls being occupied by 
 patterns in flint, which embrace their whole area. 
 Many other fine points will repay a visit to this 
 venerable edifice. 
 
 St. Peter-per-Mountergate, in King Street, is a fine 
 Perpendicular building, finished in i486. In the chancel 
 are twenty-four ancient oak stalls, formerly occupied 
 by the monks, who had a kind of college, w'hich stood 
 in the corner of the churchyard, but has long since 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 79 
 
 disappeared. The tomb of R. Berney may be seen 
 near the altar. During the rebelHon of Kett, the 
 tanner, Thomas Codd was mayor of Norwich, and led 
 a large force against him. Codd is buried in the 
 nave, and his will is annually read in the church on 
 the Sunday before St. Thomas's Day. 
 
 St. Andrew's, in Broad Street, is second only to 
 the parish church (St. Peter Mancroft) in size, and 
 greatly resembles it in appearance. A plentiful use 
 has been made of the St. Andrew's Cross, as a 
 pattern, in the fiintwork. The tower was built in 
 1487, and the body of the church in 1506, as recorded 
 in a verse over the north porch : — 
 
 This church was builded of Timber, Stone, and Bricks, 
 
 In the year of our Lord XV. hundred 8c Six, 
 
 And translated from extreme idolatry 
 
 A Thousand five hundred and seven and forty ; 
 
 And in the first year of our noble King Edward, 
 
 The Gospel in Parliament was mightily set forward — 
 
 Thanks be to God. Anno Dom. 1547, December. 
 
 The Communion plate, weighing i6ooz., was presented 
 to the church in 1704; the flagons each weigh 60 oz. 
 The tower contains a fine peal of ten bells. A large 
 tomb, erected to the memory of Sir John Suckling 
 and his wife, is surmounted by their effigies, of life 
 size. Several stained-glass windows give dignity and 
 warm colouring to the otherwise white and cold 
 interior. A few old mural tablets complete the sights 
 of this very fine church. 
 
 St. Clement's Church, in Colegate Street, is a very 
 old building, but has nothing very remarkable about 
 
80 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 it, except that many persons go to it to see the 
 ''Leper's Tomb," in the churchyard. Who the leper 
 was nobody knows ; but the legend is, that on con- 
 dition that he was buried here, in consecrated ground, 
 he would bequeath his fortune to the Church. As he 
 is buried here, we may presume that he kept his 
 word, or doubtless the monks of those days would 
 have had little compunction in disinterring him. 
 
 St. Edmund's Church, in Fishergate Street, is a 
 little, ancient building, boasting a life of 800 years, as 
 it was built in the time of William the Conqueror, and 
 for a great number of years contained a relic even 
 more venerable than itself. This was a portion of the 
 shirt of Edward the Martyr, which has since been 
 shifted — at least, it is not there now. The register 
 in the vestry dates from 1550. 
 
 St. Etheldred's, in King Street, is also very ancient, 
 being partly of Norman and partly of Perpendicular 
 design. The flint tower is round at the bottom, and 
 surmounted with an octagonal bell- chamber, containing 
 a solitary bell. A curious carved monument in the 
 chancel contains large figures of Alderman Johnston, 
 kneeling, and behind him his son, also kneeling, and 
 reading a book. Opposite him are the kneeling 
 figures of his wife and three daughters; date 161 1. 
 
 St. George's Tombland stands close to St. Ethel- 
 bert's Gate of the Cathedral. It is perched on a 
 piece of rising ground, and seems to stand uncom- 
 fortably in a corner, as if trying to hide itself. It 
 is flanked by some nodding Elizabethan houses, and 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 
 
 81 
 
 forms a very picturesque "bit" for an artist. It was 
 erected in 1445, and is a very fine building, of the 
 Perpendicular style, though with some portions of an 
 earlier type. 
 
 St. Giles, in St. Giles Street, is a grand building, 
 and stands in such a position that it can be seen 
 without the usual impediments of encroaching houses. 
 It was originally built in the reign of William the 
 Conqueror, but rebuilt in the 
 reign of Richard II. (about 
 1380). It is now in a com- 
 plete state of repair, having 
 been thoroughly restored about 
 1870. The massive square 
 tower rises to a height of 
 125ft., and forms quite a land- 
 mark to the surrounding 
 country. Round the eaves 
 are some curiously carved 
 gargoyles, of a very grotesque 
 character. On entering, notice 
 the groining of the porch roof; it is of the fan 
 tracery style, for which King's College, Cambridge, 
 is so celebrated, and is the only specimen in Norwich ! 
 There are a number of old brasses in this church, and 
 several mural tablets. The chancel was demolished 
 in 1 58 1, by order of the dean and chapter, and the 
 old material given to certain poor traders to start 
 them in business. These dignitaries thus killed two 
 birds with one stone : they obtained the name of 
 
 G 
 
 Stone Gargoyle, St. Giles's 
 Church. 
 
82 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 philanthropists, and at the same time got rid of their 
 obligation to keep the said chancel in repair, which 
 at the time it much needed. 
 
 St. Gregory, in Pottergate Street, is an ancient 
 church in the Perpendicular style, but with the 
 clerestory and some of the other windows in the 
 Decorated style. As it has several attractions, it 
 should certainly not be missed. On the end wall 
 < f the nave is a very large fresco painting, perhaps 
 1 6ft. by 8ft., in a very good state of preservation, 
 which was discovered at the restoration of the church 
 in 1 86 1. It represents St. George, on horseback, 
 slaying the dragon ; the figures are all much larger 
 than life. The brass eagle lectern, with four lion's- 
 head feet, is dated 1496, and is probably one of the 
 oldest brass reading-desks in the kingdom. There 
 are a few brass inscription plates and mural memorials 
 to Sir Francis Bacon and Sir Peter Seaman. The 
 tower contains the original stone gallery, formerly 
 used by the choir, and is an object of interest to 
 many. The pall is a notable example of needlework, 
 and may be seen by ''speaking kindly" to the sexton. 
 It is curiously strewn with angels, bearing small 
 figures, and beneath each angel is represented a large 
 fish swallowing a small one. Various theories as to 
 the symbolic meaning of these great and little 
 fish are given. The fish was the ancient symbol 
 of the Church, so, perhaps, it represents the 
 Church of England swallowing the Dissenters ; or, 
 more probably, it represents the Church taking 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 83 
 
 tithes, as represented by St. Peter's fish, which is 
 the little one. 
 
 St. John's, Maddermarket, is a good specimen of 
 fifteenth-century architecture. It contains two small 
 chapels, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin and to All 
 Saints. The roofs of these chapels are of old painted 
 designs. In various parts of the building are nine 
 or ten brasses ; so that (with permission) a morning 
 might be spent here in taking rubbings."^ A tablet in 
 the north wall of the choir denotes the resting-place of 
 Margaret, second wife of the Duke of Norfolk whom 
 Queen Elizabeth caused to be beheaded. She was 
 buried here in 1563, but the monument was not erected 
 for more than two centuries after. The tower is 
 a massive, square, flint building, with a public way 
 through its base, which was also the case with St. 
 Peter's till recently. There is no chancel, which 
 gives the church a curious, curtailed appearance. 
 
 St. John Timberhill, in Ber Street, has the distinction 
 of being the only towerless church in the city. The 
 tower was blown down during a gale, in 1784, and 
 has never been restored. A small excrescence, called 
 a bell-cot, does duty for a tower, and contains a 
 small, solitary bell. 
 
 * Mentioning brasses brings before me the fact that the two largest 
 and finest in England are to be seen in the county of Norfolk, although 
 not in this part. They are at St. Margaret's Church, Lynn, and may 
 be seen in the tower. One, dated 1349, to Adam de Walsoken, is of 
 large extent, and represents a vineyard. The other is to the memory 
 of Robert Braunche, and is dated 1374, and is called the "Peacock 
 Brass." It represents a feast, the principal dish ot which is a lordly 
 peacock being served in full plumage. The dimensions of this brass 
 are 8ft. by 5ft. 6in. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 St. Lawrance, in Upper Westwick Street, is a large 
 building, of great architectural elegance, especially 
 the windows, the tracing of which is extremely grace- 
 ful. It contains several fine brasses of the fifteenth 
 century. The interior has a somewhat cold appear- 
 ance, which has been accentuated by employing very 
 cool tints in the cathedral glass of the windows, 
 which is a mistake. The oak roof is supported by 
 lofty, massive columns, which give a fine open appear- 
 ance to the interior. In the spandrels of the western 
 door are some curious old stone carvings ; one repre- 
 sents St. Lawrance, patron saint of the church, being 
 grilled to death ; while the emperor, who gave orders 
 for his cruel death, is also receiving his death-blow 
 by the hand of God, who is represented as wielding 
 a sword. The other carving represents a party of 
 soldiers transfixing the body of King Edward with 
 arrows. His head may be seen in a bush, which is 
 guarded by a wolf, as related in the legend (see 
 Butler's ''Lives of the Saints"). The tower is ii2lt. 
 to the top of the battlements. One of the windows 
 — that at the end of the north aisle — has been un- 
 ceremoniously blocked by a building, an outhouse of 
 some kind, in the corner formed by the junction of 
 the nave and chancel, which spoils the look of the 
 church from the north. The windows were at one 
 time filled with stained glass, which those narrow- 
 minded Vandals, the Puritans, took great pains to 
 destroy in the year 1643. 
 
 St. Lawrance's Well was a public spring as early 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 85 
 
 as the reign of Edward I., but in 1576 was granted 
 to Robert Gibson, on condition that he should conduct 
 its waters, through a leaden pipe, to the main thorough- 
 fare. This he did, and a pump was erected over it. 
 A few years since, Mr. Harry BuUard, a brewer, and 
 well-known patron of his city, transformed it into a 
 public drinking fountain ; but as Norwich is a notori- 
 ously — well, to put it in a mild form — anti-teetotal 
 city, it is doubtful whether many of the inhabitants 
 could give evidence as to the purity of the spring. 
 
 St. Martin's-at-Oak, in Oak Street, was so named 
 from an oak which formerly stood in the churchyard, 
 in the branches of which hung a painted figure of 
 St. Mary. This figure the pious came to worship 
 beneath, and many fat donations fell to the Church 
 in consequence. The present oak w^as planted about 
 1798, so is quite a modern institution. Finer speci- 
 mens of Perpendicular windows, with the straight 
 line tracery, cannot be found anywhere, and archi- 
 tects will do well to study them. The interior of 
 the church, which is somewhat bare, contains an 
 alabaster tomb to the memory of Jeremiah Ravens 
 and his wife. 
 
 St. Martin-at-Palace takes its name from having 
 been built exactly opposite the Bishop's Palace. It 
 is not in any way uncommon as regards architecture. 
 It contains, however, several stained-glass windows, 
 of various degrees of merit. The east window is 
 filled with subjects from the life of our Lord. They 
 are as follows : — The Annunciation, the Adoration, 
 
86 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Via Dolorosa, Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Burial. 
 The register dates from 1538. 
 
 The plain in front of the church is historic ground 
 — in fact, tragically historic, for here was fought the 
 battle against Kett, which was the death-blow to the 
 rebellion, as also to Lord Sheffield, who was here killed. 
 An adjoining public-house, with the amorous appella- 
 tion of the Cupid and Bow, has an inscription upon 
 it setting forth that Lord Sheffield was there slain. 
 
 St. MichaeFs, Coslaney Street, is a large and elegant 
 building, and should on no account be missed. It is 
 not so ancient as many of the Norwich churches ; 
 but what it loses in antiquity is more than compen- 
 sated for by the greater elegance of its later style of 
 building. The south aisle and chantry chapel were 
 built, in 1498, by William Ramsey, who was after- 
 wards twice mayor of Norwich. They are in the 
 Early English style, though the remaining portion of 
 the church is in pure Perpendicular work. The nave 
 and north aisles were not built, or, rather, rebuilt, till 
 1511-1514, by two brothers — Stephen and John 
 Hallow. It is a remarkable thing among Norwich 
 churches, that this one (St. Michael's, or, as it is 
 usually called, St. Miles's) has no clerestory windows ; 
 but plenty of light is admitted by the nave windows, 
 each of which is of four lights, and unusually large. 
 The altar-piece, which takes the place of the east 
 window, which was ages ago filled in, is the work of 
 Heins, and represents the scene of the Resurrection, 
 and the four Evangelists, life-size. Several very old 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 87 
 
 brasses, and a number of mural tablets, help to give 
 the church a furnished and most interesting appear- 
 ance. There are parts of two stained-glass windows 
 of ancient work, which fortunately escaped the hands 
 of the gentle Puritans, who appear to have left the 
 subjects unmolested, with the trifling exception of 
 taking off the heads of the figures. The chancel floor 
 is paved with parti-coloured marble, brought from the 
 seat of the Earl of Yarmouth, at Oxnead. 
 
 The glory of the building is the chantry chapel, 
 which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This was 
 built and endowed by Robert Thorpe, about the year 
 1500. The exterior is a most remarkable piece of 
 flint and stone work ; so much so, that architects have 
 come from all parts of England to see and profit by 
 it. The various patterns are set out in stone, and 
 the intervening spaces neatly and exactly filled in 
 with flints ; but an adequate idea of the finish of 
 this work can only be gleaned by actual inspection. 
 
 St. Michael's-at-Plea, in Queen Street, is so named 
 from the fact of the Ecclesiastic Court of Pleas being 
 held there. It is of cruciform construction, and has 
 a square, embattled tower, with two bells. Near the 
 pulpit are eight old painted panels of saints, which 
 are worthy of inspection, as are also the brasses and 
 tablets. 
 
 St. Michael's-at-Thorn, an old church in Ber Street, 
 was anciently called St. Michael-cum-Montem. It has 
 still a large thorn-tree growing in the burial-ground ; 
 but whether it is the original one I cannot say — pro- 
 
THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 bably not. The entrance-porch is a fine specimen of 
 Norman work, dating from about 1250; but the tower 
 was not erected till 1436. 
 
 St. Saviour's, in Magdalen Street, is a small fabric, 
 and is really, according to its full dedication, the 
 Church of the Transfiguration of our Saviour. It 
 contains a number of mural tablets, none of them of 
 great beauty or importance. The font is an old 
 specimen of stone carving, 400 years having passed 
 since it left the mason's hands. The stem is formed of 
 a cluster of four columns, resting upon lions' heads. 
 
 St. Simon and St. Jude, in Wensum Street, is con- 
 sidered the oldest of the Norwich Churches, as it 
 was in existence before the building of the Cathedral 
 by Bishop Losigna, in the eleventh century. It con- 
 tains several good brasses, and a number of mural 
 tablets. The tomb of Sir J. Pettus has the effigy of 
 that military knight, encased in cap-a-pie armour. 
 Four knights, who fell at Mousehold Heath during 
 Rett's Rebellion, in the reign of Henry VI., are buried 
 in one grave beneath the chancel ; the record of this 
 fact is preserved in the register, still extant. 
 
 St. Stephen's, in Rampant Horse Street, is a large 
 Gothic building, built of flint, in the Perpendicular 
 style. The aisles are parted from the nave by lofty, 
 fluted columns, with pointed Gothic arches. The 
 church contains several good old brasses and neat 
 wall tablets, and several stained-glass windows, in- 
 cluding that at the east end. In the vestry is a 
 curious carving, in alabaster, of figures of saints, and 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 89 
 
 also a description of the church by the antiquarian 
 Mackerell, who helped Blomfield to compile his huge 
 tome "The History of Norfolk," at the end of the 
 last century. The oak roof deserves attention, as it 
 is a beautiful specimen of open timber-work. 
 
 St. Swithin's, in Westwick Street, is of several kinds 
 of architecture, and affords a kind of architectural 
 puzzle to discover the various periods and styles of 
 its construction. During the year 1834, a portrait of 
 Edward the Confessor was discovered nailed under 
 one of the seats, where it had probably been placed 
 during Cromwell's administration ; it forms part of the 
 old rood-screen. The altar-piece, a large oil paint- 
 ing, has for its subject the brothers Moses and Aaron. 
 The Communion plate is ancient and valuable, as it 
 is very massive. Fragments of old stained glass are 
 still discernible in some of the windows, and three old 
 oak stalls are still preserved. Some of the brasses 
 are quite perfect. The font, on its four panels, bears 
 carved emblems of the Trinity, Eucharist, and Passion, 
 with the arms of East Anglia. 
 
 These are the most noteworthy of the city churches ; 
 but short walks from the city will bring one to the 
 small hamlets of Earlham, Eaton, Heigham, Lakenham, 
 and Hellsden, with their parish churches. 
 
 The walk of a couple of miles to Earlham is very 
 pretty, and the old, ivy-covered church, overlooking 
 the bridge over the river Yare, is very picturesque, 
 and will give pleasure to those persons who may be 
 disposed to go and view it. 
 
90 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 At Earlham, and elsewhere, may be seen circular-sailed 
 water-mills, which are so contrived, that they serve the 
 ^_^i5 double purpose of drain- 
 
 ing the marsh - land, 
 and also supplying the 
 farms on the adjacent 
 g^i hills with water, by 
 means of a hydraulic 
 ram, which is attached 
 to the pumping appa- 
 ratus. I am not sure, 
 but I think the idea 
 is more American than English. 
 
 Another pretty rustic walk is to Cringleford, via 
 Eaton. The old water-mill stands on a spot which 
 has been thus occupied ever since Saxon times. The 
 scenery round about is very fine, and has afforded the 
 subject for many pictures, both in oil and water-colour. 
 A good picture may be obtained when standing 
 near the bridge over the Yare, taking in the glistening 
 stream, with its green meadows and richly-wooded 
 slopes, with Eaton Church, of picturesque aspect, 
 standing — as it does in the afternoon — in the golden 
 sunlight. 
 
 Harking back to the city once more, we will notice 
 the Museum. It is not of very great extent, but its 
 contents are such as no one who cares for the study 
 of Norfolk can afford to miss. It has a very complete 
 ornithological collection, of which that of the Raptorial 
 birds is considered one of the finest in Europe. It 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 91 
 
 has also a fine collection of various relics which have 
 been discovered at various times in the villages all 
 over the county. Treasures from the sea and from 
 the cliffs also go to swell the list. Many bones of 
 antediluvian animals are shown ; among them is a 
 tusk of a mammoth, over lift, in length, and of pro- 
 portionate thickness. There is also the humerus of 
 a mammoth, which makes the corresponding bone of 
 one of the largest elephants of modern times look 
 quite small. Here is the comparison between the 
 mammoth bone and that of Chuny, who was kept 
 at Exeter Change, London, about the beginning of 
 the present century, until he went mad, and had to 
 be destroyed by a party of soldiers firing volley after 
 volley into him till he expired : — 
 
 Httmerus of 
 Mammoth. 
 
 Humerus of 
 Chuny. 
 
 - 53in. - - 
 
 - - - 35m. 
 
 - 26in. - - 
 
 - - - I3in. 
 
 Length 
 
 Circumference at middle 
 
 Circumference at large end - - 41 in. 32in. 
 
 By comparing the bones of these two monsters, it 
 has been ascertained that the mammoth must have 
 been within an inch or two of 17ft. in height. 
 
 Besides local curiosities, may be seen articles of 
 general interest from all parts of the world, from 
 the well-cured mummy to the cast of the head of the 
 modern murderer. There are a few very ordinary 
 pictures, hung, perhaps for the best, in a rather dull 
 light. 
 
 The Cattle Market, on the hill, is one of the 
 principal sights of the city, and is, without exception, 
 the largest in the kingdom. Saturday is the market 
 
92 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 day, when hundreds of horses and cattle are shown, 
 and literally thousands of sheep and pigs ; so that, 
 from the Castle walk, the coup-d'osil is a living sea of 
 animals. 
 
 The Corn Exchange, open also on Saturdays, will 
 be an amusing sight to those unused to such places. 
 
 The Public Library, close to the Guildhall, has 
 just completed its centenary. It contains about 55,000 
 volumes, available for the use of the public on pay- 
 ment of a small annual subscription. 
 
 The library of the people is the Free Library, of 
 several thousand volumes. It contains two large 
 rooms, one for males and one for females, both of 
 which are daily thronged. It is a pleasure to go in 
 and see the scores of working men and others, quietly 
 reading the papers, magazines, and books of various 
 kinds, in the well-warmed and ventilated rooms. 
 
 The Market Place is 200yds. long, by a little over 
 looyds. wide; the market is held on Wednesdays 
 and Saturdays, when beautiful country stores of all 
 kinds are exposed for sale. It is a surprise to 
 London people to see the skill with which the 
 poultry is dressed. The fowls appear as if they had 
 been born without feathers, for not the faintest 
 trace of one is to be discerned on any part of them ; 
 and this cleanness is heightened by the manner in 
 which they are trussed and set-off with the lace- 
 like fat, which is artistically arranged over the breast. 
 There are also skin, seed, and fish markets. 
 
 In the centre of the Market Place stands a statue 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 93 
 
 of the Duke of Wellington, and at one end is the old 
 Guildhall, of fifteenth-century flint-work, the building- 
 of which was commenced in 1408. The latter building 
 contains various portraits of early mayors and other 
 notables, among the latter being John Crome, the artist, 
 who is better known as " Old Crome." One of the chief 
 objects of interest is the white-sheathed sword of 
 Admiral Don Zavier Winthuysen, who commanded at, 
 and was killed in, the Battle of St. Vincent, 1797. It 
 was presented by Lord Nelson to the Mayor of Norwich 
 during the same year. The Regalia and Corporation 
 Plate is stored here, and is, some of it, over 200 years 
 old. A civic mace, which was presented by Queen 
 Elizabeth, is still in good preservation, although nearly 
 three centuries have elapsed since it assumed its sway. 
 
 There is a fairly good theatre, in which plays are 
 rendered by starring companies from London and 
 other large cities. 
 
 St. Andrew's Hall, where the Triennial Musical 
 Festival is held, has a long history, of both eccle- 
 siastical and civic importance. The building was 
 commenced in 141 3, by Sir Thomas Erpingham, and 
 was finished by his son, Sir Robert (who was a 
 Dominican), about 1430. It was dedicated and used 
 as a church till the reign of Henry VIII., who, at 
 the dissolution of the monasteries, caused it to be 
 closed ; but the citizens, partly by prayers and partly 
 by payment, caused it to be granted to the Cor- 
 poration of Norwich as a Council Hall, and thus pre- 
 served it from destruction. It has been the scene of 
 
94 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 many feasts, civic, political, and Royal. It is now 
 used for meetings and concerts of all kinds, the chief 
 being the Triennial Musical Festival in which the 
 principal vocalists of the day take part. 
 
 The hall proper is 124ft. long, and 64ft. wide. 
 Most of the windows are in the Perpendicular style, 
 but three are of Decorated construction. The roof is 
 of chestnut, and of ancient workmanship. The tower 
 fell in 1 7 12, and has not been again reared. The 
 chancel, looft. by 32ft., is now the Dutch Church, 
 and has a sermon preached in it once yearly by the 
 Chaplain to the Dutch Embassy. 
 
 St. Andrew's Hall contains a large number of oil 
 paintings and portraits. Two of the former are large 
 historic subjects : " Queen Eleanor Sucking the Poison 
 from the Arm of her Consort, Edward I.'' and '' The 
 Death of Lady Jane Grey." The principal portraits 
 are those of Lord Nelson, by Sir William Beechey ; 
 Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark ; Sir 
 Harboard Harboard, by Gainsborough ; Hon. Henry 
 Hobart, and others, by Opie ; and Mr. Harry Bullard, 
 by the late Frank Holl ; besides those of many 
 mayors, aldermen, and other civic functionaries. The 
 windows contain the coats of arms of the various 
 mayors from 1855 to the present date. 
 
 Norwich is peculiarly rich in old architecture, and, 
 among other old buildings, the following may be 
 noted as some of the grandest specimens of bygone 
 styles yet to be seen : 
 
 The Old Music House, in King Street, is very 
 
A RAMBLE THROUGH NORWICH. 95 
 
 ancient, and makes a fine study for the artist. Very 
 close to it is a house dating from the twelfth century, 
 and one of the oldest private dwellings in England. 
 As early as the reign of William II. this was known 
 as Isaac's House, because it had been bequeathed by 
 a Jew of the period to his son Isaac. The vaults are 
 pure Norman in style. These two houses are now 
 severally a public-house and a corn merchant's. Another 
 remarkable room is to be seen at Elm Hill ; it is now 
 used as a carpenter's shop. In Queen Elizabeth's 
 time it was a dining-hall, and, during her State visit, 
 she was here entertained by the Mayor and Corpora- 
 tion. It is panelled and ceiled with oak. The 
 Rosemary Inn also contains some ancient rooms with 
 carved ceilings, of a graceful and delicate nature. 
 The Strangers' Hall^ in the Maddermarket, also 
 claims attention. 
 
 One of the finest specimens of mediaeval architec- 
 ture is the Dolphin Inn, at Heigham, formerly the 
 Palace of Bishop Hall. It is rarely that a wood-carver 
 comes in contact with such a study as this old build- 
 ing affords. Staircases, ceilings, chimney-pieces, over- 
 mantels, panels, and everything else, are carved — 
 except, as the host informed me, the joints and fowls, 
 and they are frequently hacked. 
 
 The cloisters of the Dominicans, and the Priory 
 of St. Helen's, will amply repay a visit, and, upon 
 inquiry, many other rare old fabrics will be pointed 
 out to the antiquarian student. 
 
 Almost every street contains examples of old houses 
 
96 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 of Elizabethan and other picturesque styles. At the 
 corner of Surrey Street and St. Stephen's Street is a 
 group of five old, thatched houses, with oak timber- 
 work and the usual plaster filling. Others, suitable 
 for sketching, may be seen in Oak Street and 
 Pottergate Street, and in a number of other places. 
 
 As you stroll along, notice the queer names of 
 the still more queer lanes, alleys, and yards, which 
 branch off from all the principal thoroughfares. These 
 places are the residence of the poorer classes, and 
 each ''yard,'' which is reached by a narrow passage- 
 way under the house in the main street, contains a 
 little colony or town of mechanics and their families, 
 who are, at times, very jealous of their courtyard 
 being scrutinised by strangers. The names of some 
 of these yards are very funny, but doubtless have 
 their origin in some local fact. Such are Little 
 Arabian Horse Yard, Ten Bell Lane, Three Kings 
 Lane, Gaffer's Yard, Pipe Burner's Yard, Keel and 
 Wherry Yard, and others by the score. 
 
 Having briefly examined the principal sights of 
 Norwich, we must now again hie back to Pull's Ferry 
 and the ''Lily." As we are very late, the only thing 
 we can do is to have our supper, a hand of cards, 
 a " nightcap," and retire ; for we must be up betimes 
 in the morning, so as to enjoy our thirty miles trip 
 to " Bloaterville." Don't forget to take a last look 
 at the Cathedral from this point (Pull's Ferry) before 
 leaving in the morning, for it is considered a very 
 fine view. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 
 
 Wha'll buy my caller herrin' ? 
 
 They're no brought here without brave darin' ; 
 
 Buy my caller herrin' ! ye little ken their worth. 
 Wha'll buy my caller herrin' ? O ye may ca' them vulgar 
 
 farin' ; 
 Wives and mithers, maist despairin', ca' them lives o' men. 
 Caller herrin' ! Caller herrin* ! 
 
 Lady Nairne. 
 
 ^^^^S most of the Yare between Norwich and 
 \^^A Yarmouth was traversed by us on our up- 
 ^^^^ ward course, but little remains to describe 
 until we again arrive at the mouth of the New Cut, 
 from which we have about four or five miles to 
 journey before reaching Breydon. 
 
 Could we but see this now comparatively narrow 
 river as it existed a thousand years ago, we should 
 notice a wonderful difference. At the time of King 
 Canute — according to ancient manuscripts — a large 
 arm of the sea extended quite to Norwich ; the Yare 
 being at that period divided into two broad channels, 
 which freely admitted the tides, over what are now 
 
 H 
 
98 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 meadows, quite up to the city. About the time of 
 the Norman Conquest, one of these channels was 
 gradually filled up by sand, and became solid ground, 
 upon the most eastern portion of which the town of 
 Yarmouth was built. The other opening has, in the 
 course of time, become the mouth of the present 
 river Yare. The flow of the sea having been thus 
 checked, Norwich was obliged to forfeit its claim to 
 being considered a fishing town, a distinction it had 
 hitherto enjoyed. The country, from the New Cut 
 to the entrance to Breydon Water, is so flat that 
 one may see for miles in every direction. This is 
 the best river for canoeing, as the tide serves as far 
 as Norwich ; so that a couple of days may be spent 
 very comfortably by starting from Yarmouth on the 
 first of the flood tide, visiting the various places of 
 interest on the route, landing at Norwich at dusk {2S 
 miles), and sleeping there, so as to come away an 
 hour or two before the ebb tide next day. A sail- 
 ing canoe is a capital craft, as in most of the 
 reaches one can scud along, enjoying the dolce far 
 niente. I am surprised that canoeing is not more 
 generally indulged in by the thouoands of visitors 
 who throng to Yarmouth in the season. True, the 
 canoes on these waters are not what they might be ; 
 but if the public took more interest in canoeing, the 
 owners would soon find it pay them to construct 
 canoes on the lines of those used on the Mersey and 
 other northern rivers by the various clubs. Anyone 
 with sufficient capital and confidence to build a dozen 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 99 
 
 good canoes would, by letting them out during the 
 season, secure a good return of profit on his capital : 
 ;{^I50 would be required to build and equip a dozen 
 canoes, and during the season they would bring in 
 from £15 to £20 per week, or even more. 
 
 Canoes of the '' Rob Roy '^ type are best adapted 
 for travelling, as they are strong and light, with 
 good beam for sailing. A canoe 15ft. long, by 
 about 28in. broad, is large enough to carry a heavy 
 man anywhere, as, with a burden of, say, fourteen 
 stone (twelve for occupant and two for stores), 
 it would not draw more than about 4in. of water. 
 This lightness and shallowness of draught enables 
 them to go anywhere — that is, if there be only 
 a few inches of water ; and as the paddle only 
 requires a space of about 5ft. in width, instead 
 of the 12ft. required by sculls, the canoeist may 
 explore even the narrowest dykes and the most 
 sinuous channels of the Broads. The Mersey canoes 
 have a centre-board, which can be raised and lowered 
 at pleasure, so that the amount of canvas they can 
 carry, in comparison to their size, is very great. For 
 the general public, however, these canoes would be 
 only a source of danger, as great experience is 
 required to manage them. Speed on a trip of this 
 kind must necessarily be subservient to other matters. 
 By the way, has anyone yet realised the idea of pro- 
 pelling a canoe by means of a very small marine 
 engine and screw, the boilers of which could be 
 heated by some kind of oil ? — or electricity might be 
 
 H 2 
 
100 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 brought into the service. If this were carried out, one 
 would be independent of wind, tide, or manual labour. 
 
 Crossing Breydon in the evening, which is alive 
 with gulls and their larger relatives, the yachts, we 
 anchor at Sir Edmund Lacon's Ale Stores, near the 
 Bure mouth, until the morning ; up this river we will, 
 with the early tide, venture. 
 
 The town of Yarmouth, as previously stated, is built 
 on a small peninsula formed by the sea and the river 
 Yare. It lies in longitude i° 43" E., so that the 
 time here is about 6 minutes 55 seconds earlier than 
 Greenwich mean time. The old town is built in a 
 very peculiar manner ; indeed, its like cannot be 
 found in England. The main streets run from north 
 to south, and are connected by a great number of 
 very narrow lanes, or alleys, locally termed ''rows" — 
 a very appropriate name for a town so much con- 
 nected with herrings. Instead of these rows being 
 given distinct appellations, they are simply distin- 
 guished by numbers running from i to 160. These 
 streetlets are so narrow as not to admit the passage 
 of an ordinary cart, so recourse is had to a curious- 
 looking skeleton affair, called a " lorrie,'' which is a 
 vehicle 12ft. long, and not more than 3ft, to 3ft. 6in. 
 over all in width ; and even then, when one of these 
 narrow vehicles is passing through a narrow row, 
 pedestrians have to seek refuge in the nearest door- 
 way or court. The drivers stand upright, holding the 
 reins as their sole support ; but constant use makes 
 them quite at home on these curious conveyances. 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 
 
 101 
 
 The market is, I believe, the largest of its kind in 
 the kingdom, and covers nearly three acres of well- 
 paved ground. On Saturday, the principal market day 
 it is quite a sight to walk up the long paths, flanked 
 by curious old booths containing huge quantities of 
 provisions — fish, flesh, fowl, and fruit ; the two latter 
 especially may be had here in rare perfection. The 
 market women of Yarmouth are second to none as 
 poultry dressers, as all who have seen their wares 
 must acknowledge. 
 
 Three bridges span the river, at a short distance 
 from each other; one of them — the Suspension Bride 
 
 — marks the spot where a dreadful calamity occurred 
 in May, 1845. ^ clown (Barry) from one of the London 
 
 theatres had undertaken a journey down the river in 
 
 a washing-tub drawn 
 
 by geese ; the banks, 
 
 and also the bridge, 
 
 were lined with spec- 
 tators, and as he shot 
 
 the bridge, the people 
 
 rushing in a body 
 
 from one side to the 
 
 other caused the chain 
 
 to snap, when 400 
 
 persons were precipi- 
 tated into the Yare, 79 
 
 of whom were either 
 
 crushed or drowned. north gate, Yarmouth. 
 
 Among other curiosities in Yarmouth may be noted 
 
102 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 the remains of the old city walls and towers or gates ; 
 that of the North Gate, which is still in good preser- 
 vation, bears the date 1396 as the period of its 
 construction. From this gate the ancient wall may- 
 be traced till it reaches the remains of the King's 
 Tower, in the churchyard. 
 
 No. 4, South Quay, is a remarkable house. It 
 was built in 1596, and contains some fine rooms in 
 the Elizabethan style, which, by courtesy of the 
 occupier, may sometimes be seen by those interested 
 in old architecture. In one of these rooms, according 
 to tradition, the death of Charles I. was determined 
 upon. The house was then in the occupation of the 
 Carter family. A granddaughter of Oliver Cromwell 
 also resided here early in the eighteenth century. 
 
 The Star Hotel should not be missed, as it contains 
 some fine carved work in its ceilings and fireplaces ; 
 and other things of interest will be pointed out by 
 the obliging landlord. The Quay — or, rather, quays, 
 for it is divided at the Vauxhall Bridge into North 
 and South Quays — is thought to be, with, perhaps, 
 one exception (that at Seville), the finest in Europe. 
 At the extreme end of the North Quay stands 
 one of the ancient city towers above mentioned, 
 of which there were formerly sixteen, also ten gates ; 
 this was when the City was environed by a strong 
 wall. 
 
 The Town Hall, built in 1882, is by far the finest 
 building in Yarmouth, and stands at the commencement 
 of the South Quay, opposite the berth of the General 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 103 
 
 Steam Navigation Company's steamers. It is built of 
 red brick and Portland stone, and is surmounted by 
 a tower rising to a height of 125ft. It contains some 
 very fine rooms; one — the Assembly Room — is looft. 
 by 40ft., and is elegantly decorated. There are other 
 large rooms for municipal uses — viz., the Court Room, 
 50ft. by 30ft. ; Dining Room, 33ft. by 25ft. ; Police 
 Court, 37ft. by 32ft. ; Committee Room, 32ft. by 27ft. ; 
 Entrance Hall, 8oft. by 25ft., &c., &c. 
 
 It seems a pity that, after an existence of only five 
 years, this noble structure should have to undergo 
 extensive repairs, on account of the subsidence of 
 the foundations contiguous to the river ; but such is 
 the case. 
 
 From the Town Hall the Quay is planted with a double 
 row of trees, and presents a very fine vista. Walking 
 down this avenue, noticing the various craft as we go 
 (and they are legion), we come to the Fish Wharf, 
 where, during the '* herring harvest,'' scenes of great 
 excitement and clamour may be witnessed, as the laden 
 vessels come in and disgorge their finny cargoes, which 
 are at once sold by auction. Upwards of 2000 lasts 
 of herrings have been landed here in one day ; and 
 when we consider that a last contains 13,200 fish, thus 
 giving a total of 26,000,000 herrings caught in a single 
 day, we may well be amazed, and wonder wherever 
 they all go to. Perhaps it is not generally known that, 
 according to local legend, a herring, like Baalam's ass, 
 once spoke, and then not in common prose, but, as 
 my informant said, " it spook in powertra " (spoke in 
 
104 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 poetry). This is the complete and unabridged version 
 of the poem : — 
 
 There was a herring spoke, 
 
 And only one, 
 And that said : " Roast my back 
 
 Before you roast my bone." 
 
 Good advice ! and, let me add, eat them as the 
 natives do, with mustard as a condiment. The best 
 way to serve a bloater is to cut off the head and tail, 
 open it down the back, take out the bones, and grill. 
 
 Trinity Wharf, the store and repairing yard of the 
 Trinity Company, is an interesting sight. Very few- 
 persons have seen a light-ship, except at a distance ; 
 but here they may make a closer acquaintance with one, 
 as there is always a spare vessel moored here. Notice 
 the immense buoys, of all shapes, sizes, and colours, 
 and the curious '' mushroom " anchors, with which the 
 light-vessels are moored. At the extremity of the 
 South Quay is the racecourse and Nelson's Column ; 
 the latter was erected in 1817. It consists of a hand- 
 some Doric, fluted column, springing from a square 
 base, and is surmounted by a colossal figure of 
 Britannia. The total height is 144ft. The ascent 
 may be made for a trifle, and a splendid view 
 obtained. Leaving the racecourse, and returning 
 along the beach, the visitor soon reaches the Wel- 
 lington Pier, named after the Iron Duke. It is 
 about 700ft. in length, and, the head of it having been 
 greatly enlarged in 1883, now affords ample room 
 for the large number of persons who assemble, during 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 105 
 
 the summer season, to hear the band and the concerts 
 which take place there every evening. 
 
 The Jetty, or Old Pier is much shorter — only about 
 560ft. — and comes in for a much smaller share of 
 patronage from visitors, who like to go as far out to 
 sea as possible, so long as they can get a firm footing. 
 
 The Britannia Pier was originally 750ft. long. It 
 was twice cut in two during gales, one vessel actually 
 sailing quite through, and smashing the massive piles 
 for Soft, or 90ft. The pier was then shortened some 
 50ft., and is now of the same length as the Wel- 
 lington. Many young, and would-be hardy, fishermen 
 (if the sea did not toss about so, and make one feel 
 ill) may be seen at the pier-head when the tide is 
 rising, and occasionally make rare havoc among the 
 flats and whiting. At any rate, if, after two or three 
 hours' toil, their hauls are not great, their appetites are. 
 
 In the centre of the Parade, facing the sea, stands 
 the Sailors' Home, a large building in the Italian 
 style of architecture. Great as are the resources of 
 this institution, during stormy weather, on several 
 occasions, they have been tried to their utmost, 
 nearly every bed being occupied by wrecked sailors 
 and fishermen. The Museum, on the first floor, is 
 free, and contains many curious things, brought from 
 all lands under the sun. In passing out, an offertory- 
 box will be observed at the door, and any little odd 
 coin you may drop in will go towards helping some 
 poor fellow who has been snatched from a watery 
 grave, perhaps with the loss of everything he 
 
106 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 possessed in the world, even to his clothes. Adjoin- 
 ing the Home is the Lifeboat Station. 
 
 The Toll House, which 
 was formerly the Gaol, is 
 now a Free Library. It 
 has been entirely restored, 
 except the Dungeon, which 
 has been kept in statu quo, 
 and may be inspected on 
 payment of a small fee. 
 
 Before retracing our steps 
 to our yacht, we will take 
 a peep at the venerable 
 Church of St. Nicholas, 
 standing at the foot of the 
 Market Place. It was 
 founded by Herbert de Losigna, first Bishop of 
 Norwich, in iioi, but was not finished until some 
 years after ; indeed, it was not completed when 
 Losigna died, in iiig. It is of a cruciform shape, 
 and has been several times enlarged, especially during 
 the years 1123, 1250, 1338, and 1370. It is, as a 
 parish church, unrivalled for size by any in the king- 
 dom. It also boasts a very large porch, which is 21ft. 
 long by 15ft. wide. In the Isle of Wight is a church 
 which would comfortably fit into this, it being only 20ft. 
 by 12ft. ; I refer to St. Lawrence."^ During the fifteenth 
 
 Old Toll House. 
 
 * Since writing the above, I have come across a still smaller church, 
 and that is Lullingworth Church, Sussex, which is i6ft. square. The 
 parish contains sixteen inhabitants, so the church is large enough. 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 107 
 
 and sixteenth centuries, no less than sixteen chapels 
 were attached to, and embraced within, the walls of 
 St. Nicholas, each with its altar and attendant priest. 
 These chapels, being richly endowed, and containing 
 valuable jewels, plate, and ornaments, were suppressed 
 by Henry VIII., who converted their appurtenances 
 into money and diverted it to other uses. In 1683, 
 the tower was so crooked that it had to be taken 
 down, and was then replaced by the present one, 
 which is between i6oft. and 170ft. high. It is the 
 vicar's aim to raise, by public subscription, a 
 fund sufficient to build a tower (separate from the 
 church) which shall reach an altitude of nearly 500ft. 
 Until within the last few years the church was divided 
 lengthways into three parts, so that three services 
 might be carried on simultaneously. These divisions 
 have now been swept away, and new pews replace 
 the old ones ; the vast size of the building can, there- 
 fore, be seen at a glance. The organ is considered 
 a very fine one, and was originally built in 1733, 
 but has since then been several times enlarged and 
 thoroughly repaired. I do not know of a finer pulpit 
 than the carved one in this church, and which was 
 placed there a few years since. A library of rare old 
 books is attached to the church ; one of these books, 
 a black-letter Bible, is dated 1541 ; and another, a 
 work printed in Italy, is dated 1547. A remarkable 
 revolving reading-desk is also shown. There are some 
 very fine stained-glass windows, those at the west 
 end of the south aisle (Mills Memorial) and in the 
 
108 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 north transept (an Ascension window) being especially 
 worthy of notice ; but those in the south aisle, with the 
 exceptions mentioned, are unworthy of the church. The 
 skull of a whale, which has been in the church for 
 two or three centuries, brings ill-luck to anyone who 
 sits in it. Some carved oak panelling at the end of 
 the north aisle is worthy of note ; it contains the 
 arms and names of the churchwardens in the seven- 
 teenth century, the earliest being dated 1597. The 
 centre panel contains the precept : " ^eave ^06 ; <^onor 
 t^e «^pttg " — I Pet. ii. The graveyards, of which there 
 are three, all contiguous to one another, cover several 
 acres, and attract many visitors, on account of their size. 
 
 St. Peter's Church contains a fine copy, by T. 
 Myers, of Rubens' '' Descent from the 
 Cross ;" it is the gift of Col. Mason. 
 
 The accompanying illustration repre- 
 sents one of the curious Httle Dutch 
 DUTCH WHIPPING- whipping-tops used by the Yarmouth 
 ^^^' urchins. I believe this kind is quite 
 
 unknown to London children. 
 
 Many other interesting objects may be seen in 
 Yarmouth ; but as I think we have been long enough 
 away from the '' Lily," we will cut through Charlotte 
 Street to Lacon's Wharf, and board her. 
 
 While we discuss our evening meal in the Httle 
 cabin, I will, to keep up the discursive character of 
 this chapter, say a few words upon shooting, skating, 
 &c. Without a doubt, wildfowl is not so plentiful as 
 it was some twenty years since ; but still, in the late 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 109 
 
 autumn and winter, a good bag may be made. It is 
 almost necessary, however, to procure the services of 
 a man who can take you to the most likely places. 
 On some of the marshes and riverside lands good 
 snipe-shooting may be had ; but of course the per- 
 mission of the owners must be first obtained. A 
 friend of mine, who still lives at Stalham, some 
 twenty years ago bagged fifty-three brace of snipe 
 in one day, and only quite recently brought in 
 seventeen-and-a-half brace as the result of five 
 hours' sport. For the visitor, however, this kind of 
 thing is not obtainable, except by the favour of a 
 landlord. The river, in all navigable parts, is free for 
 shooting to all, and at dusk or early morning good 
 sport may be had among the coots and kindred 
 aquatic wildfowl ; while a stray heron, curlew, or 
 pewit, will help to swell the bag. Oulton Broad, 
 Lake Lothing, Breydon Water, and one or two other 
 lakes, are free ; but of course little shooting takes 
 place on them in the summer, except for gulls, the 
 close time for which ceases on the first day of August. 
 A dog will be found very useful to retrieve the birds 
 which fall among the reeds, and which would other- 
 wise be lost ; and he will often go among the reeds 
 and rushes, to put the fowl out, so that a shot may 
 be obtained. Duck-shooting is pursued in severe 
 weather with both sport and profit, large flights at 
 times making their way here. Teal, widgeon, &c., are 
 to be found occasionally, and in severe weather many 
 foreign birds from the Baltic make their appearance. 
 
110 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Skating can be enjoyed in the depth of winter on 
 the Broads and rivers, as much as in any place in 
 England, the natural features of the country, with its 
 rivers and water-courses, making it almost equal to 
 Holland in this respect. I have sometimes been on 
 the beautiful crystal surface of Hickling Broad, about 
 a square mile in area, with perhaps only a dozen other 
 persons on it besides myself ; no fear of being knocked 
 down by the crowded state of the ice here ! In very 
 cold weather, one may skate for miles and miles 
 along the rivers ; or, if the skater be nervous, he 
 may try his fortune on the glassy covering of ice 
 which surmounts the flooded marshes, with a depth of 
 only about a foot of water ; so that, if he should 
 happen to go through, he can step quietly out again. 
 Many of the farmers take off the wheels of their 
 traps, and, fixing on a pair of runners, go sleighing 
 for miles along the rivers. Care has to be taken 
 that the horses' shoes are well-roughed, or removed 
 altogether, and their hoofs "bumbled" with sackcloth. 
 
 Some of the fen-men are noted for their speed- 
 skating; they having such splendid opportunities of 
 practising in the winter, almost at their own doors. 
 Even little fellows of six years of age may be seen on 
 skates ; so that, when they grow up, they are as much 
 at home on runners as if it were their natural mode 
 of travelling. In the accompanying woodcuts, the 
 upper figure shows the usual form of running skate 
 used in the Fens : the lower one — an elongated steel 
 runner — is frequently seen, and is nearly identical 
 
NORWICH TO YARMOUTH. 
 
 Ill 
 
 with the skate used in England before the Conquest. 
 The waterfowl are at times found frozen in the 
 
 ice, which in this bleak 
 eastern county forms very 
 rapidly. I am informed 
 that excellent sport is 
 to be had by cutting 
 a hole in the ice, and 
 ^ well ground-baiting the 
 place a couple of hours 
 before fishing. I cannot vouch for this, as I have not 
 had practical experience of this Esquimaux mode of 
 angling ; nor should I much care to try it, for fear 
 of catching more catarrh and rheumatism than perch 
 and rudd. I should think that, when the ice bears 
 well, a roughly improvised ice-boat would furnish 
 infinite amusement, even if no very great speed 
 were attained. A flat-bottomed punt, with two 
 pieces of wood screwed across the bottom, and 
 upon which a pair of iron runners could be fastened, 
 would form the hull ; while I should fancy a working 
 lug would do for the sail. No doubt, with a good 
 breeze, a fair rate of speed might be obtained, even 
 with an improvised craft of this description — say, ten 
 to fifteen miles per hour. Even a 2-in. plank, with 
 arms to hold iron runners, would make an ice-boat 
 after the Canadian type. A short mast, stepped for- 
 ward, would serve for the purpose of an experiment, 
 and some fun, on a bright, cold day, could surely be ex- 
 tracted, even from these rough and ready materials. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 UP THE BURE TO ACLE BRIDGE. 
 
 Glide gently, thus for ever glide, 
 
 O Bure ! that anglers all may see 
 As lovely visions by thy side 
 
 As now, fair river, come to me. 
 Oh, glide, fair stream, for ever so, 
 
 Thy quiet soul on all bestowing, 
 Till all our minds for ever flow 
 
 As thy deep waters now are flowing. 
 
 ^T is a glorious August morning, so we take the top 
 njtj of the flood, and at 8 A.M., having breakfasted, 
 '';^*L are on our way up the river Bure. For the 
 first few miles the landscape is singularly uninteresting, 
 being composed of water, marshes, and sky, wnth very 
 little to break the monotony. It seems as if we should 
 never lose sight of Yarmouth ; indeed, after going 
 three-and-a-half miles, we are only a mile and a half 
 in a straight line from it, the Bure here describing 
 two-thirds of a circle. A glance at the chart will 
 show this, and we shall also perceive certain points, 
 marked "2-mile house," ''3-mile house, ''' &c. These 
 distances are only approximately correct ; the houses 
 
UP THE BURE TO ACLE BRIDGE. 113 
 
 or landmarks are so few (the former sometimes half- 
 a-mile or more apart), that the nearest house to a 
 given distance is dubbed a " mile-house," and shown 
 as such on the chart. The actual distances of the i-, 
 2-, 3", 4", 5", 6-, and y-mile houses from Bure mouth 
 are, respectively, 7 furlongs, if, 2|, 4, 5, 6 J, and 7I 
 miles. Nothing but this flat Dutch scenery presents 
 itself till reaching Acle Bridge — eleven miles and a 
 half. 
 
 At Runham Swim Ferry we lay to, and, packing our 
 rods and provisions, take a two-and-a-half miles walk 
 to Filby Broad, there being no means of getting by 
 water to the leash of Broads known as Filby, Ormsby, 
 and Rollesby, which are all connected, and form a 
 straggling, irregular lake, of about 700 acres in extent, 
 their united length being upwards of three miles. 
 Filby, the smallest of the three, is nearest the Bure ; 
 next comes Rollesby ; and farther north is Ormsby. 
 Some splendid fish are caught here, but for some reason 
 pike do not appear to be so plentiful as they were 
 a few years since. 
 
 From the south end of Filby Broad a wide dyke, 
 called by the appropriate, but not very euphonious, 
 name of the Muck Fleet, leads to the Bure, but, being 
 choked w^ith weeds, it is not navigable. It is about 
 three-and-a-half miles long, and i6ft. wide, and, by the 
 outlay of a few pounds for dredging, might be made 
 navigable for small and flat-bottomed boats ; this 
 expense might be met by the exaction of a small toll. 
 Communication between the Broads is effected by a low, 
 
114 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 single-arched bridge, with 4ft. of head room, which 
 space is only just sufficient to allow of a boat and its 
 passengers passing under. 
 
 Filby Church (All Saints') contains several stained- 
 glass windows, and has a lofty, embattled Gothic 
 tower. There are also several sculptured memorials 
 to the Lucas family ; one especially deserving of 
 
 mention is the work of M. Herrman, of Dresden. 
 Filby is celebrated for the cultivation of raspberries, 
 which, to the value of several hundred pounds, find 
 their way to the Yarmouth and Norwich markets. 
 To those who have never seen a field of raspberry 
 canes, and the mode of culture, a visit to one of those 
 at Filby will be of interest. 
 
UP THE BURE TO ACLE BRIDGE. 115 
 
 Rollesby Broad is a much larger area of water, but 
 is partly preserved ; visitors to the Eel's Foot Inn, kept 
 by host Monsey, can, however, readily obtain boats and 
 permission to fish. Scores of anglers come here, in 
 the summer, from Yarmouth, either by waggonette 
 (some seven miles), or by rail to Ormsby Station, and 
 thence on foot (two miles.) It would be as well if 
 those who drive to Ormsby from Yarmouth came via 
 Caister, so as to view the remains of the Castle, built 
 for Sir John Fastolfe, a valorous knight in the reign 
 of Henry V. This hero must not be confounded with 
 Shakespeare's pusillanimous Falstaff. The Sir John 
 referred to. at the battle of Agincourt, took prisoner 
 the Duke d'Alen9on, who, as a ransom, built Caister 
 Castle ; at least, so local tradition has it. History has a 
 different version, for we find that the Duke d'Alen^on 
 was slain outright at Agincourt. At the battle of 
 Verneuil, the son of this Duke was brought prisoner 
 to England, and it was probably he who built Caister 
 Castle. It was twice besieged — first by the Duke of 
 Norfolk, in the fourth Edward's reign, and, later, by 
 Lord Scales. It was really more of a castellated 
 mansion than a castle in the strict acceptance of the 
 word, but was complete, with its moat, drawbridge, 
 and strong outer defences. A lofty, circular tower, 
 and two sides of the body of the building, still stand 
 in picturesque decay. The edifice was of brick, 
 strengthened by stone. The population of the 
 villages hereabout is very small, probably not more 
 than loo souls inhabiting any one of them. As the 
 
 I 2 
 
116 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 villages each occupy an area of about three square 
 miles (or, rather, the parishes containing the villages), 
 some idea may be formed of the scarcity of the 
 inhabitants. Over the door of one of the cottages in 
 Rollesby is the ghastly sign, *' A pall to let." Such 
 a thing as a hearse is unknown at a village funeral, 
 as the body is either borne on the shoulders of the 
 relatives or conveyed in a cart. The pall is therefore 
 let out, and does duty for all the villages in the 
 immediate neighbourhood. 
 
 Ormsby Broad is the northern limit of these waters, 
 and contains some splendid perch and pike, and a fish 
 which London anglers seldom get among — the rudd. 
 He is a very game fellow, and grows to a large size. 
 It appears to be a moot point as to whether the rudd 
 is a distinct species or a hybrid produced from the 
 roach and the bream. These fish travel in shoals, so 
 that, when on the feed, a good basket may soon be 
 secured : but more on this subject anon. Great 
 Yarmouth draws the supply of water for its 40,000 
 inhabitants from these Broads, and, upon a visitor 
 applying at the office of the Water Company, in 
 Yarmouth, a ticket will be given him admitting him to 
 view the large waterworks at Ormsby — a sight worth 
 seeing. The parish church of Ormsby (St. Margaret's) 
 is an ancient edifice, having a lofty, square tower, 
 with four monks at the corners instead of pinnacles. 
 It contains several brasses in memory of Lord Home, 
 Lady Alice Clere, &c. The ruins of two or three 
 other churches may be seen near by, viz.. All Saints', 
 
UP THE BURE TO ACLE BRIDGE. 
 
 117 
 
 at Scratby, and Holy Trinity and St. Peter's, between 
 the two Ormsbys. At Billockby, the church is in 
 such a ruinous state that the service is held in the 
 chancel, which for that purpose has been specially 
 
 The Landing Stage at Ormsby Broad, 
 
 renovated. The whole adult population of the hamlet 
 does not exceed thirty-five, so that even the chancel 
 is never inconveniently crowded : a score is a large 
 congregation. At Scratby is a cliff from which a 
 splendid view of the sea and the surrounding country 
 
118 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 may be obtained. In the church at Clippesby is an 
 altar-tomb, upon which is a brass portraying the 
 full-length effigies of John Clippesby, his wife Johan, 
 and their four children. It is dated 1594, and contains 
 also a number of shields, emblazoned with coats of 
 arms, &c. The north doorway is well-preserved 
 Norman work, and has frequently been engraved and 
 painted. An ancient font, and the quaintly-carved 
 pews, should be noticed. 
 
 Having spent a long, delightful day, we return, late 
 in the evening, to our yacht, thankful to once more 
 enjoy the comfort of our snug cabin and the meal 
 our man has prepared for us. The largest of our 
 catch of fish we reserve for breakfast ; at this dish 
 our man will probably turn up his nose, as the natives 
 care little for fish when they have the run of the 
 larder — as our honest Sam has. He actually wonders 
 how we can eat " them things ; they're rare things 
 for gret men like yow to keep yar strength up on, 
 they are.'' No doubt the steak hanging in the locker 
 in the stern-sheets is in his mind's eye. He evidently 
 does not know what ardent anglers we are, nor the 
 sweetness to the palate of a fish caught on one's 
 own hook and by one's own skill. 
 
 While our meal is being discussed, the vessel slowly 
 and silently makes her way to Acle Bridge, where we 
 anchor for the night. On the right we pass the 
 village of Stokesby, which, beyond being a pretty little 
 waterside village, possesses nothing especially worthy 
 of note. It contains a population of about 400, and. 
 
UP THE BURE TO ACLE BRIDGE. J 19 
 
 consequently, the inhabitants are rather proud of it. 
 The church register dates from A.D. 1558. 
 
 A note to anglers! During the year 1886, several 
 trout were caught in the vicinity of Acle Bridge, 
 and no doubt others are only awaiting the advent 
 of the angler to hook themselves. In the bar-parlour 
 of the solitary inn at the foot of the bridge, two 
 little "spotted beauties" may be seen, each weighing 
 a trifle under 4lb. ; large eels are also caught here, 
 running up to 41b. and 51b. in weight. 
 
 , :fa mmmm t » 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 Islets so freshly fair 
 
 That ne'er hath bird come nigh them, 
 But from his course through air 
 
 Hath been won downward by them. — Tom Moore. 
 
 ^JaT being a rainy morning, we feel lazy, and do 
 ^"^ not rise till 8 A.M. Our man has cleaned nine 
 
 ml 
 
 j1!!' or ten of the largest perch we caught yester- 
 day at Ormsby, and is cooking them for breakfast. 
 
 As it is not everyone who knows how to cook fish 
 in a proper manner when they have caught them, I 
 will, at the end of this little work, give a few hints 
 on the art, not as a professed cook, but as one who 
 has found out, from experience, the quickest, simplest 
 and most toothsome manner of preparing for table 
 the result of his day's sport. 
 
 At Acle Bridge (stone, with three arches) all vessels 
 must lower their masts. This is not a very formid- 
 able task, as, after striking sail, the mast lowers in a 
 kind of fulcrum, called a ''tabernacle"; the heel of 
 the mast, being weighted with lead or iron, rises or 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 121 
 
 falls with very little exertion. The masts of some of 
 the wherries have as much as a ton and a half of 
 lead to balance them. Care should be taken in shoot- 
 ing this bridge, and others of similar construction, as 
 with a strong tide and wind accidents may soon occur. 
 Keep to the middle arch whenever practicable, as the 
 water is there deeper and the arch itself wider. 
 
 AcLE Bridge. 
 
 Acle is a town of nearly looo inhabitants, and, 
 consequently, an important place. The church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Edmund the King, was built about 
 1350, and has a round tower with an octagonal top. 
 It contains an oak screen, of florid Gothic carving, 
 and an ancient font (1410 A.D.), which at some 
 period has been elaborately painted, the colours being 
 clearly discernible. Over the porch is an effigy, and 
 
122 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 in the spandrels are, respectively, a kneeling figure and 
 a Tudor rose. In the churchyard may be seen this 
 curious verse : — 
 
 Farewell, dear children, to you I bid adieu; 
 
 When living, what was in my house always did for you ; 
 
 But now my time is past, that I did toil in vain, 
 
 But hope in Heaven with you to meet, in Glory to remain. 
 
 The town stands a mile to the west of the bridge, 
 and is in direct railway communication with Norwich 
 (thirteen miles) and Yarmouth (eight miles). The 
 remains of Weybridge Priory, founded by Roger 
 Bigod, in the time of Edward 1., are here ; but as 
 visitors are fond of taking '^samples" of it away with 
 them, the greater portion will doubtless be found 
 somewhere else, as only a waggon-load or two of it 
 is now left. 
 
 Nowhere, formerly extra-parochial, is now annexed 
 to Acle ; it contains fifteen inhabitants. 
 
 A mile from Acle is Fishley (476 acres), noted for 
 little save the paucity of its inhabitants, who number 
 not more than a score, all told. 
 
 It is as well to warn yachtsmen of the danger of 
 being run down by a wherry on the narrow rivers. 
 They come swooping down like a huge bird of prey, 
 appearing suddenly round a bend of the river, like a 
 huge ^' brown " ghost. There seems no particular '' rule 
 of the road," but the craft with a free wind usually 
 gives way. 
 
 As a wherry is a vessel seen in no other part of 
 England, it may be as w^ell to describe one. It is 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 123 
 
 neither more nor less than a cargo barge, of local 
 build, and for local requirements and waters. They 
 are from 50ft. to 60ft. in length, with a beam of from 
 I oft. to 12ft., and only draw from 2ft. to 3ft. of water, 
 which enables them to navigate shallow rivers. They 
 are from twenty to thirty-five tons burthen, on an 
 
 sv;i.yj...M^ -' ».^.w » .MMujji..^i . j^win Ji^ i ., . ., ... ... .. MA . j ^ 
 
 A Norfolk Wherry. 
 
 average ; but one monster, called the " Wanderer," 
 has a carrying capacity of eighty-one tons. The body 
 of the wherry is one long hold, covered by movable 
 hatchways, which are taken off in 2ft. sections. Aft 
 is the cabin, forming sleeping accommodation for two 
 men, and containing a stove for cooking and warming 
 
124 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 purposes. Forward, within a few feet of the bows, 
 the huge mast is stepped, in what is called a ''taber- 
 nacle," which acts as a fulcrum for lowering and 
 raising the mast, sail, and tackling. To raise this 
 huge mass more easily, a number of leaden weights, 
 weighing from 25cwt. to 30cwt., are attached to the 
 heel. The mast is raised by the aid of a windlass 
 standing at the foot. It may be noted that there is 
 no standing rigging whatever. The sail is an enormous 
 one, of tanned canvas of the thickest kind ; and in 
 light winds a ''bonnet," or supplementary piece, 
 about a yard deep, is attached to the foot of this 
 mainsail. Jibs or topsails are never carried — simply 
 the one mammoth sail, with its boom and gaff. 
 
 ^ At the top of the 
 
 '^^^— ^ mast, a flag of peculiar 
 
 construction is invari- 
 ably placed, as by its 
 aid the wherry is sailed 
 Every little flaw of the 
 wind is denoted by 
 it, and upon this the 
 wherryman relies. The 
 flag-pole is an iron 
 rod, 2ft. high, upon 
 one side of which a 
 painted tin figure is fixed, which always points in 
 the direction from which the wind is blowing. The 
 flag is composed partly of tin and partly of silk. 
 The end nearest the pole is of tin, covered with 
 
 Masthead and Gaff, showing Attach- 
 ment OF Sail. 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 125 
 
 Flag on Masthead of 
 A Wherry. 
 
 and thus propel 
 and deep breath 
 
 silk, the free end of which flutters in the breeze, as 
 shown in the accompanying woodcut. 
 
 In a dead calm, or when it 
 is required to go against a head 
 wind, recourse is had to quanting ; 
 that is, pushing with a pole, i8ft. 
 or 2oft. long, called a " quant," 
 in the use of which the wherry- 
 men are very expert. They obtain 
 a sett into the river bottom, or 
 bank, with the pointed end, apply 
 the knobby end to the shoulder, 
 their craft forward, many a grunt 
 accompanying the arduous task. 
 
 The wherry is noted as a 
 sailer, and it is claimed for it 
 it can sail nearer the wind than 
 other vessel afloat. 
 
 Going easily along under a small 
 foresail, having unfortunately run out 
 of coal sooner than we expected (as 
 we did not take any on board at 
 Yarmouth, knowing that we had a 
 store at Wroxham), we come to a 
 part of the river called Thurne Mouth, as it is here 
 the Bure and Thurne meet. We turn sharp to the 
 left, almost at right angles, and, a mile and a half 
 from the mouth arrive at Cowholm, a marshy place, 
 on which feed vast herds of cattle. On the right 
 
 fast 
 that 
 any 
 
 Butt and Head of 
 A Quant. 
 
 bank we land to obtain a close view and sketch of 
 
126 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 the celebrated Abbey of St. Benet's-at-Holm. A her- 
 mitage occupied this site long before the time of 
 Canute, but, by that king's order, the Abbey, of which 
 these ruins remain, was built in 1020. The occu- 
 pants were of the religious order known as Black 
 Monks, or Benedictines. The custom of the times 
 being '* might rather than right," and each commu- 
 nity having to look after itself, the Abbey was built 
 like a castle for strength. In 1066, the monks, with 
 the help of the surrounding peasantry, offered a 
 most stubborn resistance to William the Conqueror. 
 So well did they fight, that it was only by treachery 
 that the place was captured. One of the monks was 
 promised the abbacy if he allowed the Normans to 
 enter. The bait was too much for the poor follower of 
 St. Benedict, for he gave up the Abbey to its besiegers, 
 who kept their word so far as to invest him with the 
 insignia of office, but then hanged him in his sacred 
 vestments. The Abbey was at one time a very rich 
 one, as many of its royal benefactors liberally endowed 
 it — Edward I. and the Empress Maud in particular. 
 In the reign of Henry VIII. its annual income was 
 ])ut down at £677 9s. 8d., which in those days repre- 
 sented a very large sum. In 1535, the Abbey was 
 annexed to the bishopric of Norwich, and has remained 
 so ever since. All the abbots had a seat in the 
 House of Lords ; so that the present Bishop of Nor- 
 wich has a double claim to his seat. He is the only 
 abbot in England, being styled in legal documents 
 " Bishop of Norwich, and Abbot of St. Benet's-at- 
 Holme." 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 127 
 
 The walls which once surrounded the Abbey inclosed 
 thirty-eight acres of ground, and were defended on 
 the south by the river Bure, and on the other sides 
 by a deep moat. Part of their foundations may still 
 be traced. Of the Abbey, which was a cruciform 
 building with a round tower in the centre, little now 
 remains ; the fine gateway, however, still stands, 
 though it is blocked by the ruins of a huge windmill 
 built during the early part of last century. One of 
 the side walls of the chapel stands close by, and 
 many other fragments are scattered about, especially 
 of the wall bounding the river. 
 
 For a picnic or lawn-tennis party, no better place 
 than this can be got ; the grass is short and velvety, 
 and plenty of level spots may be found. 
 
 Nearly opposite the Abbey is the Fleet Dyke (a mile 
 and a half long), leading to South Walsham Broad 
 (between fifty and sixty acres in extent), which is 
 very rarely, in comparison to other Broads, visited by 
 anglers, being a long way from any railway station. 
 I would advise those who have plenty of time to visit 
 this and other smaller Broads. I dare say that for 
 every party of pleasure-seekers who visit this par- 
 ticular Broad, at least fifty pass it without, perhaps, 
 being aware of its existence. The church of St. Mary 
 is a fine old building, with chancel, nave, side aisle, 
 and tower containing five bells. The register dates 
 from 1550. The church of St. Lawrence was destroyed 
 by fire in 1827, but the chancel having been restored, 
 Divine service was carried on in it, and furnished 
 
128 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 sufficient accommodation for all the villagers who 
 were likely to attend, the entire population not 
 exceeding i6o. The fire was caused by a shovelful 
 of hot cinders being thrown on some dry manure 
 which was lying by. It spread with such rapidity, 
 that in a few hours several stacks, a dwelling-house 
 and barn, and the church, were consumed. It is a 
 
 South Walsham. 
 Two Churches in One Churchyard. 
 
 remarkable sight to see two parish churches in one 
 churchyard, as is the case here."^ 
 
 Coming back again to the Bure, and proceeding a 
 mile or so, we reach another dyke, also on the left, 
 
 * This remarkable feature occurs in several instances in Norfolk. 
 Legend says the two churches in question were built by two sisters ; but 
 legend does not always keep to the truth. 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 129 
 
 which takes us to wild, picturesque Ranworth Broad. 
 Bring out your sketching materials and colours, for 
 here is a picture ready for you. Masses of reed-beds, 
 and glittering water, upon whose surface water lilies, 
 with their spotless white flowers and broad, circular, 
 green leaves, float and quiver ; a floating coot's nest, 
 and many sub-aquatic plants, make a splendid fore- 
 ground. The middle distance is filled in with more 
 glittering water ; some swans ; Piscator in his punt, 
 just playing a fine fish ; a rustic, with fodder-hidden 
 boat, quanting noiselessly along, like a modern 
 Charon. For your distance : in the soft, blue haze 
 of a summer's day is seen an old farmhouse, half 
 hidden by trees, and above this the grand old church 
 tower, also springing apparently from a nest of 
 trees. This place seems to present an epitome 
 of the salient features and characteristics of the 
 Norfolk Broad district. The Broad is a mile long, 
 and a quarter of a mile broad, and contains about 
 lOO acres. In parts, it is greatly grown up, but, being 
 very quiet, some large fish are to be found in it. 
 It is very amusing, on a calm day, when the yacht 
 lies at anchor, to lie flat down over the counter, 
 or in a boat, with one's face close to the water, and 
 watch the fish, who may be seen a long way down in 
 clear water, disporting themselves. A "water tele- 
 scope" (an instrument which you can get made by 
 any tinman for a trifle) is a capital aid in watching 
 the gambols of the '' water babies." It may be made 
 thus : Procure a tin cylinder, about 3ft. in length, 
 
 K 
 
130 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 with one end about 4in. in diameter, and the other 
 i^in. Blacken the inside of this tube, and have a 
 slight rim soldered round the inside of each end, upon 
 which to rest a disk of ordinary window glass, which 
 should be carefully puttied or cemented in, so that 
 no water may enter the tube ; the telescope is now 
 complete. To use it, thrust the large end below 
 the little waves, apply the eye to the upper extremity, 
 and, the water being perfectly still a short distance 
 below the surface, a clear view may be obtained of 
 the denizens of the deep. 
 
 A boy from the village, who has been fishing for 
 a couple of hours with very coarse tackle, has taken 
 about thirty fish as we pass, and has threaded them 
 through their gills on to rushes ; two or three of 
 them weigh a couple of pounds each. His outfit 
 is a hazel pole (cut from the adjoining wood), about 
 I oft. long, on the end of which he has a line, or 
 ^How," as he calls it, of thin whipcord, to which is 
 fastened a large hook on gut, weighted with pieces 
 of lead stolen from the glazing of his mother's 
 window. His float is a common bottle-cork with a 
 quill (stopped at one end with pith) thrust through 
 it, and, with this gear, by sundown he will capture 
 as many fish as he can stagger home with. '* They 
 du fare kindly to bite bett'rn they du sum days," he 
 tells us, in answer to our question of, " Do you 
 always capture them as fast as this?" 
 
 The church of St. Helen is a fine building, standing 
 in a commanding spot overlooking the Broad, and con- 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 131 
 
 tains several objects of interest. Here is to be seen 
 a splendid chancel screen, of carved and painted work, 
 said to be one of the finest in 
 Norfolk ; also an ancient oaken, 
 
 ^ra 
 
 ■ A 
 
 ^7^— 11 
 
 M 
 
 OTT :8^ 
 
 — TT^ 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 -5^ 
 
 ■-■ ^..J^ 
 
 -r— 5— M-a-4^- 
 
 
 f^^Tctcr tgrntif 1 
 
 \M 
 
 t^itit^ 
 
 -m^mmm 
 
 ikM 
 
 ■i^^s 
 
 
 Chant on Reauing-uesk (300 years old). 
 
 double reading-desk (see illustra- 
 tion), on one side of which is the 
 Reading-desk— Ranworth • , i 
 
 Church. Latin chant here represented. 
 
 The chancel contains some curiously-carved oaken 
 stalls. Some of the figures of saints are in excellent 
 preservation, and form a capital series of subjects for 
 sketches, especially that of St. George. The register 
 dates from 1556. 
 
 The belfry contains a peal of five bells, none of 
 which are less than 200 years old. They all bear 
 inscriptions, which read as follows : 
 
 1. ^li^a^^s^oxiibic^fiiia ac peeves Sacxx: /»oI: 
 
 Jlrmgri et pixa ^^nii ntaneri 1610. 
 
 2. MB. ^nno pomini 1615. 
 
 3. /B. W omitcs soitus cnibct bominum 
 
 anno bnt 1616. 
 
 4. go^n Parbie xnabc me 1670. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Near the screen is a sculptured tablet to the memory 
 of the donor of one or more of the bells : — 
 
 Here under lyeth Buried the bodie of 
 Thomas Holdiche one of the sonnes of 
 Robert Holdiche of Ranworthe Esquier 
 who died the 9th day of August 1579- 
 
 The font (see illustration) dates from the fifteenth 
 
 century, and is still in excellent preservation. 
 
 Again we resume our journey 
 
 along the Bure, and soon arrive 
 
 at Horning, with its prettily 
 
 embowered church peeping down 
 
 on us from an adjoining hill. 
 
 Please get your coppers ready, 
 
 for, as the village is being 
 
 passed, a crowd of noisy little 
 Font— Ranworth Church. 
 
 lads and lasses will run along 
 
 the bank singing ''John Barleycorn," and create 
 
 great fun in scrambling for any coppers you may 
 
 throw to them. From the river this village presents 
 
 a pretty appearance ; but in this, as in many other 
 
 cases, " distance lends enchantment to the view." This 
 
 particular village lies very low, and is surrounded by 
 
 fens, so that many windmills are necessary to keep 
 
 the water from flooding it. This accounts for the 
 
 church standing a mile away, on the top of the hill. 
 
 At Horning Ferry is a prettily-situated inn, where we 
 
 will take a glass of ale, and, being smokers, indulge 
 
 in a cloud while our man digs for worms in a garden 
 
 close by. If time permit, this is reckoned a capital place 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 133 
 
 for fishing, either from a boat or from the banks, which 
 on both sides are firm ; the river is at this spot wide 
 and deep. 
 
 The scenery here is very beautiful, and, if your 
 vessel be large enough, a somewhat uncomfortable 
 seat on the gaff for half-an-hour will be amply com- 
 pensated for by the loveliness of the surrounding 
 
 Laying to— beside Horning Ferry. 
 
 country, which may be scanned in all directions from 
 that eminence as you proceed. On the right is Hove- 
 ton Little Broad, ninety acres in extent, and studded 
 with islets, upon which the gulls love to congregate 
 and, in the spring, breed. The Broad, being nearly, if 
 not quite, land-locked, is very quiet, and is the home 
 of numerous wildfowl. Away a mile or so inland 
 beyond this Broad, are one or two other isolated 
 
134 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Broads, ot small extent. Burnteen is one of them, 
 and, lying quite away from the river, is seldom or 
 never visited by strangers. 
 
 Just past Hoveton, on the left, is the entrance to 
 Woodbastick Broad, a fine sheet of water, of about 
 thirty acres in extent. It is very secluded, and well 
 
 Entrance to Woodbastick Broad. 
 
 stocked with fish. As the water is fairly deep, it 
 makes a delightful, spot for a cruise round. The 
 village stands a long way from the Broad — quite a 
 mile — and contains nothing of special note. The 
 church is an old one, dedicated to two saints (Fabian 
 and Sebastian). 
 
 The next Broad is that of Salhouse, also on the left, 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 135 
 
 delightfully surrounded by trees, and quite a romantic 
 spot for a picnic. Just beyond is a small lagoon, of 
 very inviting appearance (Salhouse Pool), which forms 
 quite a little harbour; one end of it runs up to a 
 picturesquely situated farmhouse, snugly embowered 
 among trees. All about this part is, in summer, very 
 lovely, and frequent halts should be made, so that 
 the individual beauties of the surroundings may be 
 
 Salhouse Pool— at End of Salhouse Broad. 
 
 admired and appreciated. All along, quite to Aylsham, 
 the scenery is worthy of more than a passing glance. 
 Time, alas ! will not always allow us to halt at will, 
 so we must be content with a flying visit. On the 
 right hand is Hoveton Great Broad, with its roman- 
 tic little islands. This is the largest Broad of those 
 just mentioned, being upwards of 130 acres in area. 
 During the breeding season it is a favourite resort 
 for sea-gulls. They arrive in large numbers about 
 the middle of March, and at once commence to lay 
 
136 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 their eggs, which are of various tints, and con- 
 sidered, by some persons, a great luxury. The man 
 appointed to collect these eggs only takes from 
 each nest the first two or three laid, and sends 
 them to market, where they sell for about a shilling 
 per dozen. The gulls are so numerous that thousands 
 of eggs are thus obtained during a single season. 
 Hatching commences about the beginning of April, 
 and lasts till the end of July, when the birds leave, 
 usually during the night. The young ones are very 
 funny little fellows, and are covered with a yellow 
 down, which gives them the appearance of being so 
 light and fragile that a breath of wand might almost 
 waft them away, as it would a puff-ball. 
 
 The church of Hoveton St. John contains several 
 handsome memorials to the Aufrere family. It is a 
 brick structure, and was erected in 1624. 
 
 I may here mention what is to be seen in the 
 neighbourhood of this group of Broads. The church 
 at Salhouse (All Saints') is greatly indebted to the 
 late R. Ward, Esq., of the Hall, for a great deal of 
 its embellishment, and contains, among other relics, a 
 sanctus bell, an hour-glass (with which the sermons 
 were formerly measured out), and a curious Knight 
 Templar's coffin. There are also several monuments 
 and tablets to the memory of local families. Some 
 portion of the chancel is Early English. The register 
 dates from 1568. Salhouse Hall was built in the 
 reign of Queen Elizabeth. If time allows, many pretty 
 walks may be taken in this neighbourhood, which lies 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 
 
 137 
 
 in the very heart of the beautiful Broad district. Here- 
 abouts the banks of the river are, in the summer, for 
 miles covered with wild flowers. 
 
 I would caution amateur yachtsmen against an 
 unseen danger, which appears to be peculiar to Norfolk, 
 and that is ''Roger" — "beware of Roger!" Who or 
 
 iLiET Nook near Hovetox. 
 
 what is ''Roger?" Well, "Roger" is the name given 
 to a whirlwind which occasionally strikes yachts before 
 the crew are aware of its approach. By keeping 
 a good look-out, however, you may, when you 
 see the reeds and trees at the river-side violently 
 agitated, know what to expect, and will, of course, 
 take steps to trim your sail accordingly. I was once 
 
138 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 nearly overturned, near Stokesby, in a ten-ton yacht,* 
 simply through our man making the mainsheet fast 
 while he prepared dinner. A fast sheet has caused 
 many fatal spills. At Wroxham Regatta, in 1881, no 
 less than three competing yachts were overturned and 
 sunk by a " Roger," whilst a tent on shore was taken 
 up in the air and carried a distance of 80yds. These 
 whirlwinds do not last more than a minute at most, 
 generally less, but are during that time perfect little 
 tornadoes. While staying at Happisburgh, in 1885, 
 I was one night awakened by a noise like thunder, 
 but, on rising and looking out of the window, could 
 see nothing to cause alarm, so concluded that I must 
 have been dreaming. In the morning I discovered 
 the cause of my alarm ; it was a " Roger," which had 
 stripped a bullock-shed, 30yds. long, of its tiled roof, 
 made a hole in a barn roof 14ft. by lift., torn off the 
 limbs of some oak trees which stood in its path, and 
 scattered the corn, then in full ear, in all directions. 
 Such is the force of a " Roger." 
 
 We will now proceed to the last Broad of any 
 importance in this district — Wroxham. This fine, 
 open, deep sheet of water is in many parts 12ft. or 
 14ft. deep, and for regatta purposes is not to be 
 excelled ; it is also a splendid place for fishing, for 
 which a small fee is usually demanded. Its length is 
 about a mile, and its acreage about 120. 
 
 * " The Warrior." Last autumn, a gentleman standing on her deck, 
 gun in hand, waiting for a shot, was struck by her unusually long 
 boom, as she took a jib, and knocked overboard. He was a good 
 swimmer, but the blow had stunned him, and he never rose again. 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 139 
 
 Regatta day here presents a sight worth witnessing. 
 The water is then Hterally alive with craft of all sizes, 
 from the lilliputian canoe, with its single occupant, 
 to the stately twenty-ton ner, with its merry party of 
 twenty or thirty persons. The snowy sails of the 
 vessels rival in whiteness the fleecy summer clouds, 
 as their keels do the clouds in swiftness. The show 
 of bunting is, of course, very large (who cannot sport 
 a flag on such an occasion ?), so that, from a distance, 
 the Broad looks like a huge flower-garden in full 
 blossom. Visitors staying in Yarmouth should not miss 
 this sight, as it is one of the best of the season. 
 From Vauxhall Station, Yarmouth, Wroxham may be 
 reached in about an hour and a half, and from Norwich 
 in fifteen minutes. 
 
 Many persons, who have only a day or two at their 
 disposal, prefer to come straight on to Wroxham, and 
 confine their movements to the river and Broads 
 between Coltishall and Thurne mouth — a very wise pro- 
 ceeding, as this is, without exception, the finest stretch 
 in Norfolk, and for fishing and scenery cannot be 
 surpassed. There are two very fair inns at Wroxham, 
 but, being only country inns, and not ''Grand" Hotels, 
 their sleeping accommodation is somewhat limited. 
 The names of these inns — which will be found very 
 comfortable — are the Horse Shoes and the King's Head. 
 Many of the cottagers in this and other villages keep 
 a spare bedroom for visitors, which they let at a 
 very moderate fee ; if required, they will also provide 
 breakfast or tea for a small party. A bouquet of old- 
 
140 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 fashioned flowers, which, though considered common 
 in London, are quite as fragrant as their more delicate 
 hothouse relations, may be gathered in the garden. 
 Boats may be had here, though the supply of these 
 is also limited. Passing under the old stone bridge, 
 and also under the railway bridge, we come to 
 a small lagoon, of no importance, called the Bridge 
 Broad. Wroxham Church (St. Mary's) stands on a 
 knoll, and is built in the Early English style ; its 
 register dates from 1558. In the churchyard is a 
 large mausoleum to the memory of Sigismund T. 
 Southwell, Sheriff of Norfolk, who died in 1827. 
 
 The view from the elevated 
 churchyard is a sight not 
 on any account to be missed. 
 It is lovely ; and so is the 
 appearance of the church 
 from the river. It stands 
 on a hill covered with giant 
 oak trees — which spring 
 from the beautiful grassy 
 slope — and makes a very 
 sylvan scene. Notice the 
 Norman doorway of the 
 south porch, which is in excellent preservation, as 
 may be seen from the illustration. 
 
 Belaugh Broad, about a mile past the stone bridge, 
 is the last of the Broads, in this river, of any size, 
 though several others of small extent may be explored. 
 The church of St. Peter, on the summit of a hill, is 
 
 Norman Doorway— Wroxham 
 Church. 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 141 
 
 in the Gothic style, and contains a handsome screen 
 and ancient font. The well-preserved register takes 
 us back to the year 1500. This, again, is a prettily 
 situated village. The grounds of the vicarage slope 
 down to the water's edge, and are in summer a blaze 
 of colour. 
 
 The river is navigable as far as Aylsham, and persons 
 on sailing bent cannot do better than make the 
 trip, as the surroundings are very picturesque ; but 
 nothing drawing more than 2ift. of water can reach 
 it. There are eight locks to stop the way, but 
 they may each be passed in ten minutes. Toll is 
 taken at the first one, for the series. Aylsham is 
 about eighteen miles by river from Wroxham, and 
 forty-four from Yarmouth. As we pass several villages 
 on our way up, I will just mention what is of interest 
 in connection with them, and, should my readers wish 
 to see for themselves, they may land and do so, as all 
 of them are within a few minutes' walk of the Bure. 
 The first is Horstead-cum-Stanninghall, which contains 
 a new church, and the remains of an old one which 
 ceased to be a place of worship 300 years since ; the 
 ancient font is preserved in the present church. 
 
 On the right is Coltishall, a very old town (population 
 about 1000), which received a charter, granting them 
 various privileges, from Henry III., in 1231. In this 
 document, of which the following is a portion, these 
 privileges are quaintly expressed : '' To all men, 
 women, or children, born, or to be born, in this my 
 town of Coltishall, freedom from all villainage of body 
 
142 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 and blood, and from toll, stallage, picage, and pannage, 
 in all fairs and markets throughout England ; and that 
 all frays, transgressions, bargains, quarrels, and suits 
 concerning the said town of Coltishall shall be deter- 
 mined twice every year, before the King's officers, at 
 the leets there." The church (St. John the Baptist) 
 has some curious, rudely-worked stone figures round 
 the western doorway and inside the battlements. 
 
 The first lock is at Coltishall, and I would advise 
 visitors w^ho have viewed the beauties of this truly 
 delightful village, with its red-roofed houses, thrown 
 into relief by the sombre green of the pinewood back- 
 ground, to take train to Aylsham rather than pass 
 through the never-ending locks and bridges. 
 
 Great Hautbois is also an ancient village, " for, at 
 the head of the Causeway in this parish, in the reign of 
 King John, Sir Peter de Alto Bosco founded an hospital, 
 or Maisoyi Dieu, for a master and several poor people. 
 It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and made 
 subordinate to the hospital at Horning, which was 
 under the government of the Almoner of St. Benet's 
 Abbey." The church of St. Theobald is in ruins ; the 
 chancel has been converted into a mortuary chapel. 
 
 The river, from Wroxham to Aylsham, is usually 
 quiet, as large yachts do not go above Wroxham 
 Bridge. As we proceed, if watch be kept, many 
 beautiful little birds may be seen. Our launch, of 
 course, makes too much noise for these little warblers ; 
 but if the naturalist, in his little boat, will drop silently 
 down the river, he will gain a deal of information 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 143 
 
 concerning our feathered friends. Among others, he 
 may espy the gay, peacock-coloured kingfisher, of 
 whom Shakespeare has something to say ; indeed, what 
 has he not something to say about? Alluding to the 
 old custom of turning a dead kingfisher into a weather- 
 cock, by mummifying it, and suspending it so that its 
 beak shall point out the direction of the wind, he says, 
 speaking of rogues, in " King Lear " (Act ii., scene 2) : 
 
 • • • And turn their halcyon beaks 
 With every gale and vary of their masters. 
 
 The kingfisher rarely takes long flights, but its motion 
 is exceedingly quick, and, as it flits about in the 
 sunshine, its gleaming feathers look as if made of 
 burnished metal. Although a species of this bird is 
 known in the tropics, it is not nearly so brilliantly 
 coloured as the English one [Alcedo hisptda), which 
 is an anomaly, seeing that most tropical birds quite 
 eclipse ours in point of brilliancy of plumage. Like 
 the heron, it is fond of fish as a food ; but, unlike that 
 bird, it prefers to kill or stun its prey before devour- 
 ing it : hence, it may be seen, after capturing a fish, 
 to knock it on a stone, limb of a tree, or rail, till it is 
 either killed or stunned ; then, tossing it in the air, 
 it catches it adroitly in its beak, head downward, and 
 swallows it. 
 
 The kingfisher, like several other predaceous birds, 
 has a curious way of lining its nest with fish and 
 other bones, which is brought about in this way. The 
 bird swallows the fish whole, and, when it has satisfied 
 its appetite, retires to its nest, which Is in a hole bored 
 
144 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 in the bank of a river. Then it quietly digests the 
 food, or, at least, that portion which can be readily 
 assimilated ; the remainder, consisting of the larger 
 bones, skin, &c., it throws up from its stomach. These 
 pellets, or '' casts," are always found on the floor of 
 the nest, and upon them the eggs are hatched and 
 the young reared. The owl is another instance of 
 the pellet-casting bird, and, being very fond of mice 
 and birds, its nest may be readily recognised by the 
 fact of its being covered with skins, bones, and other 
 indigestible portions, formed into balls or pellets. 
 
 Little Hautbois and Lammas are both on the right, 
 but contain little of interest. Buxton is a pleasant 
 village on the left, and has an ancient church, of Early 
 English architecture, containing several fine stained- 
 glass windows. Oxnead, on the right bank, is also 
 prettily situated, and its church is quite surrounded 
 by woods. The chancel is paved with black and white 
 marble, and contains a handsome marble tomb, 
 upon which lies the effigy of Clement Paston, who 
 died in 1597. By his side is the effigy of his wife, 
 and at their feet a pelican. Clement Paston was 
 the person whom Henry VIIL called his '' champion," 
 Protector Somerset his " soldier," Queen Mary her 
 ''seaman," and Queen Elizabeth her "father." He 
 built the Hall, of which a part still remains, about the 
 year 1590. His grandson, the first Earl of Yarmouth, 
 added to it, for the entertainment of Charles L, the 
 Banqueting Hall, which contained the first sash- 
 windows ever made in England. At Brampton, many 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 145 
 
 Roman coins, urns, and other antiquities have been 
 found at various times, showing that, probably, the 
 Romans encamped here for some time after the 
 disastrous defeat of Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, who 
 inhabited these parts more than 1800 years since. 
 
 Aylsham, our farthest point, is an interesting town^ 
 of some importance, and contains upwards of 2500 
 inhabitants. It was a town at the time of the Norman 
 Conquest, and later, in the reigns of Edwards II. and III., 
 was noted for its linen cloth, called " Aylsham webbs,'^ 
 or ''cloth of Aylsham." The Bure, which at one time 
 was not navigable beyond Coltishall, was deepened in 
 1779, and has since then been dredged, so that now 
 vessels drawing not more than about 2ift. of water can 
 pass up it. A free school was founded here as far 
 back as 151 7. 
 
 The church of St. Michael was built by John of 
 Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and the court of his duchy 
 was once held in this town. The tower contains a clock 
 and a peal of ten bells. The font is enriched with bas- 
 reliefs of the Four Evangelists, the emblems of the 
 Passion, and the arms of Gaunt, &c. The screen, which 
 was painted in 1507, contains some quaint figures of 
 saints and martyrs ; the cost of this work was defrayed 
 by Thomas Wymer, who is represented on his monu- 
 ment wrapped in a winding-sheet. There is also a 
 monument to Richard Howard, who, in 1488, built the 
 church porch. There are several stained-glass windows, 
 some of them containing genuine old painted work. 
 The east, west, and south windows, however, added 
 
 L 
 
146 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 in 1842, are the work of a Norwich artist, and were 
 doubtless thought a great deal of at the time. Notice 
 the fine Lych-gate, as you enter the churchyard 
 precincts. 
 
 Aylsham has a Spa, which was once a noted resort 
 of persons afflicted with asthma and other chronic com- 
 plaints ; It Is now but little used. It stands about 
 half-a-mlle to the south of the town. There Is also 
 a very level bowling-green, and those who are fond 
 of this ancient pastime may spend a happy hour here. 
 I may add that the Aylsham bowlers are such adepts 
 at this game, that they are willing to meet all comers. 
 Aylsham Is altogether well worth a visit, and may be 
 reached by rail from Norwich In about an hour. On 
 Stow Heath, two miles to the east, are several large 
 tumuli, or barrows. 
 
 There are several other places of Interest within 
 walking distance of Aylsham, notably Bllckling Hall, 
 to be reached In about half-an-hour, or less. The 
 mansion is a large, quadrangular structure, built In the 
 Elizabethan style. It has two open courts in the 
 centre, turrets at the angles, and a large clock-tower 
 over the principal entrance ; the tops of the walls are 
 embattled, and the mansion Itself is surrounded by a 
 moat having bridges, &c. The whole Is environed 
 by noble old trees. The park Is a very large one, 
 containing 1000 acres (much larger than Regent's 
 Park and Hyde Park, London, put together), and is well 
 stocked with deer. Bllckling Hall contains many 
 large rooms; the library is 127ft. long, and 21ft. 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 147 
 
 wide, and has a panelled ceiling, enriched with figures 
 in relief, representing the Seasons, the Elements, the 
 Passions, &c. The hall is 42ft. long, 33ft. wide, and 
 33ft. high, and opens on to the carved oak staircase, 
 which is surmounted by carved oak figures of Queen 
 Elizabeth and Anne Boleyn. Here are some fine oil 
 paintings, by various artists, including George III. 
 and his Queen, and George II. on horseback, by 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds. The park contains a lake, in 
 the form of a crescent, about a mile long, and nearly 
 a quarter mile across at the widest part. Blickling 
 Hall has passed through the hands of various families 
 since its erection. During the reign of Henry VI. 
 it was in the possession of Sir Thomas Erpingham, 
 who built the Erpingham Gate of Norwich Cathedral, 
 and who sold it to Sir John Fastolfe, the builder of 
 Caister Castle ; Sir John sold it to Sir Geoffrey Buleyne, 
 or Boleyn, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1457. 
 Sir Thomas Boleyn, father of the unfortunate Anne 
 Boleyn, next possessed it. On the anniversary of her 
 death — according to local traditional belief — Queen 
 Anne Boleyn is seen, with her severed head in her lap, 
 sitting in her coach, which is drawn by four headless 
 black horses, driven by a headless coachman, accom- 
 panied by a decapitated footman. The Hall then passed 
 into the hands of the Cleves, one of whom sold it to 
 Henry Hobart, a Chief Justice, whose son. Sir John 
 Hobart, rebuilt it in 1620; one of the latter gentleman's 
 descendants was created Earl of Buckinghamshire in 
 1746, and his son, the second Earl, rebuilt the west 
 
 L 2 
 
148 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 front, and greatly improved other portions. On his 
 death, without issue, the Hall came into the possession 
 of the Suffield family, and is now the seat of Constance, 
 Marchioness of Lothian. In an ancient poem, mention 
 of Blickling is thus made : — 
 
 Blickling two Monarchs and two Queens has seen : 
 One King fetched thence, another brought, a Queen. 
 
 A mile from the Hall is a mausoleum, in the form 
 of a pyramid, 45ft. high, erected to the memory of 
 the second Earl of Buckinghamshire and his two wives, 
 who lie beneath it. The church (St. Andrew's), which 
 stands near the Hall, on a hill, contains some fine 
 brasses and stained glass, and also a handsome memorial 
 to the Marquis of Lothian, who died here in 1841. 
 
 Blickling Hall is thrown open to the public on one 
 day in each week throughout the summer, during 
 which time excursion trains are run from Norwich, 
 so as to give visitors an opportunity of viewing this 
 fine old English residence, with its valuable collection 
 of articles of virtu of all kinds. The tapestry, which 
 covers the walls of some of the rooms, is considered 
 very fine, especially the piece given by the Emperor 
 of Russia to a former owner of the Hall, who acted 
 as ambassador at the Russian Court; it represents 
 Peter the Great on horseback. 
 
 The parish of Blickling contains 2085 acres, with 
 a population of about 350. The Marchioness of 
 Lothian is owner of the whole parish. 
 
 Artists, botanists, and others, would be repaid by 
 
ACLE TO AYLSHAM. 149 
 
 making Aylsham their headquarters for a few days, 
 and thence taking walking excursions in various 
 directions. The country round about is very pretty, 
 and also very quiet, as the adjacent villages are very 
 small. 
 
 Sleeping at Aylsham, we in the morning steam back 
 to the mouth of the river Ant, which flows into the 
 Bure on the left as we return, just before we reach 
 St. Benet's Abbey. It is navigable for vessels of 
 moderate size. 
 
 >" '■ < • 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM 
 BROADS. 
 
 There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, 
 There is a pleasure on the lonely shore ; 
 
 There is society where none intrudes, 
 By the deep sea — and music in its roar. 
 
 — Byron. 
 
 f?-|r^|HE run from Aylsham to the mouth of the Ant 
 ^Iv (twenty-eight miles) has occupied the whole 
 ^ -JL* morning, so we lay-to and take lunch ; our 
 man, meanwhile, digs us some worms from the 
 monks' garden or orchard at St. Benet's Abbey, so 
 that we may have some angling in Barton Broad in 
 the evening. 
 
 While we are discussing our meal, I will tell you 
 a little about the eel-catchers and their house-boats. 
 The latter may be seen on most of the rivers here- 
 abouts. The hull is simply an old ship's boat, standing 
 high out of the water, with the sides raised, and a 
 roof put over them, so as to form a house, or cabin, 
 in which the eel-catchers live and sleep. The boats 
 are usually painted white (or, rather, whitewashed), 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 151 
 
 SO as to be easily distinguishable at night, in order 
 to avoid collisions, and also to be the same colour as 
 the snow-covered ground in winter, for wildfowl 
 shooting. Eel-catching is carried on in the autumn, 
 when the eels are returning along the rivers to again 
 enter the sea; for, strange to say, the young ones 
 are born in salt water, and then make for the rivers 
 in the spring. The eel-nets, as seen hanging on the 
 stakes, by the side of the huts, seem exceedingly 
 complicated affairs, but are not so in reality. The 
 whole net is somewhat like a trawl net, has a 
 mouth as wide as the river it is to be placed in, and 
 tapers away to a small tail, to which is attached a 
 movable piece, or " cod." The mouth of the net is 
 fastened, at the two sides, by stakes driven into the 
 river bank, which keep it distended ; while a heavy 
 chain is lashed to the bottom, to keep it in position 
 on the mud. The top rope of the mouth hangs 
 loosely between the two posts, so as to enable 
 wherries or boats to pass over it. The top and 
 bottom of the mouth of the net are kept from too 
 wide distension by a couple 
 of cords, which, by being 
 shortened, will draw the mouth 
 down as close as may be de- 
 sired ; so much in fact, as to 
 close it, if necessary. Hoops 
 
 are placed at intervals along e^l picks, darts, spears or 
 the inside of the net, and to ^'^'''^• 
 
 these are fastened transverse nets, having a small, 
 
152 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 pursed-up aperture in the centre, to allow the eels 
 to pass through, but placed at such an angle as 
 prevents their returning. The net finishes off with the 
 above-mentioned " cod," a detachable bag, which, at 
 intervals of an hour, is hauled up, taken off, and the 
 eels contained in it emptied into a wicker basket 
 
 or trunk. The mesh diminishes from mouth to tail, 
 so that at the end a darning-needle would stand a 
 poor chance of getting through. Dark, wet nights in 
 September are the times when the largest takes are 
 obtained, and tons of eels are sent to the large 
 markets in different parts of England during this 
 month. Eels are also taken by spears or darts. 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 153 
 
 mounted on long handles. They are easily managed ; 
 but care must be taken that the boat does not drift 
 away, and leave you hanging on the handle of the 
 eel-pick, with no alternative but a ducking. Choose 
 a dark night for this sport. 
 
 Now, having finished our meal, we will ascend the 
 Ant, a river connecting Barton Broad with the Bure. 
 After proceeding about a mile, we come to Ludham 
 Bridge — a small, stone structure of one narrow, low 
 arch ; all masts must here be lowered, for the crown 
 of the arch is not more than 6ft. or 7ft. from the 
 water ; its small aperture has brought many amateur 
 yachtsmen to grief. Several years ago, a young 
 gentleman, desirous of showing his skill as an oarsman 
 to a party of ladies who happened to be crossing the 
 bridge, put on a spurt, feathered beautifully, and 
 pulled a long, clean stroke till he got to the bridge, 
 when suddenly, as if struck by lightning, the sculls 
 flew from his hand, and he was thrown to the bottom 
 of the boat, amid a frantic peal of laughter from those 
 on the bridge. He had been sailing, and had forgotten 
 to unship the mast. The crestfallen oarsman was 
 — myself! This, though somewhat unpleasant, was 
 not nearly so bad as what happened to a yachting 
 party, the recital of which may act as a warning to 
 others who may visit this spot under similar circum- 
 stances. 
 
 A party of gentlemen, who had hired a very large 
 yacht, came to Ludham Bridge, and being desirous 
 of seeing all that was to be seen on the Ant, requested 
 
154 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 their man to take them under the bridge. The man 
 said the yacht was too large, and in different ways 
 tried to dissuade them from the attempt. But to no 
 purpose. The mast was therefore lowered, everything 
 made snug, and the quant got out and used. There 
 was so little head-room beneath the bridge, that it took 
 a long, long time to coax her through ; but at length 
 
 LuDHAM Bridge. 
 
 she was squeezed through, to the detriment of her 
 paint. But there she was, afloat, on the opposite side 
 of the bridge, and her merry party quite happy. Away 
 they sailed, and were gone several days, as they, un- 
 fortunately, were detained by very rainy weather, after 
 a long period of dryness. In due course they returned 
 to Ludham Bridge. But what was their chagrin to 
 find that the river had become so swollen that they 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 155 
 
 could not possibly pass through the arch by several 
 inches ! There was no help for it, and so they had 
 the misfortune of having to pay something like £2^ 
 for the hire of the yacht for the next three weeks, the 
 time which elapsed before the rivers had subsided 
 enough to allow of the yacht again passing under 
 the bridge. 
 
 There are a number of very large water-mills along 
 the river banks, having red brick towers 40ft. high. 
 Land, and see the means by which the sails are made 
 to work the powerful machinery which drains the 
 marshes. 
 
 For a test of skill in boat-sailing, I do not think 
 it possible to beat this river, as it is as full of turns and 
 twists as the limb of an oak tree. No matter which 
 way the wind blows, you are sure to get a head wind 
 in some of the reaches, a fair one in others, and a 
 following one in others. Perhaps the head is pointing 
 due east ; five minutes after we head north ; in 
 another five minutes, west ; and so on, quite to Barton 
 Broad. 
 
 The whole district is very marshy, and from the 
 Bure to the Broad there is only one village — Irstead, 
 on the left bank. In the church (St. Michael's) — a 
 small, flint building, possessing a register dating from 
 1538 — is a stained-glass window to the memory of 
 WilHam of Wykeham, who was rector of this parish in 
 1347, and afterwards became Bishop of Winchester. 
 Some portions of ancient stained glass have been care- 
 fully preserved, and worked into the windows. The 
 
156 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 pattern of the quarries proclaims it to be late fifteenth- 
 century work. The oak benches were repaired and 
 restored about fifty years since. The church stands 
 within fifty or sixty yards of the river, and the keys 
 may be had of the sexton, who lives in a cottage 
 close by. The ancient name of the village, as given 
 in Doomsday Book, was Orsteada. In the next village 
 (Neatishead) is a church, with a lofty tower and spire, 
 dating from the time of Edward IV. ; over the entrance- 
 door is some very curious carved work. 
 
 Stained-glass Quarries— Irstead Church. 
 
 Some good catches of fish are to be obtained in 
 the Ant, which may be fished from the banks, as 
 the river is not very wide. A good pair of water- 
 proof boots are needed, as the river-bank is boggy. 
 These boots will be found handy in many parts of 
 Norfolk. By-the-way, the best and simplest recipe 
 for waterproofing boots that I have come across 
 is that by '^ Wildfowler." Here it is: Put ^Ib. of 
 tallow and i\h. of resin in a pot, which place on 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 157 
 
 the fire. When melted and stirred together, it is fit 
 for use ; but, before applying, warm the boots. While 
 the mixture is hot, lay it on with a painter's brush, 
 until neither the sole nor the upper will absorb 
 any more. Then, in order that the boots may take 
 a polish, mix one ounce of wax with a little lampblack. 
 This preparation must not be applied until twenty- 
 four hours after the tallow and resin mixture has been 
 used. 
 
 Barton Broad is a large lake, quite a mile and a 
 quarter long, and averaging a third of a mile wide, 
 and contains nearly 300 acres of water area. There 
 is a fair depth of water for fishing and sailing, which 
 may be indulged in with even more freedom than on 
 the other Broads, as it is more open. A large artificial 
 island, near the centre, affords a capital locale for 
 picnic parties, as yachts may be brought close to the 
 side in 5ft. of water. Beware of certain shoals, having 
 little tufts of weed showing above the surface, in 
 various parts of the Broad. Do not be lured, on a 
 breezy day, by their placid appearance, while every- 
 where around the water is in little, lumpy waves. If 
 you once get on one of these weed-shoals, it is a 
 difficult matter to get off again, as you cannot find 
 a firm bottom, or anything else, to push off from. 
 If you put an oar or boathook down, the treacherous 
 weeds, after standing a fair amount of pushing, will 
 suddenly give way, and if you are at all off your 
 balance, a ducking will follow. If you do run on to 
 one of these places, the best way to clear your boat 
 
158 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 is to push the stern from side to side until you get 
 it clear, and then a vigorous push off from the bows 
 (everyone else being in the stern) will usually back 
 it into deep water. 
 
 Wherry on Barton Broad. 
 
 The large western arm of the Broad leads to 
 Beeston Hall, the seat of Sir Jacob Preston, who 
 owns the whole of the parish of Beeston St. Lawrence. 
 The Hall stands in a beautiful park of 300 acres, 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 
 
 159 
 
 some of the trees in which are truly patriarchal 
 and gigantic specimens of the British oak. The 
 house, which has been the seat of the Preston family 
 for generations, is built of flint, 
 with stone quoins. One member 
 of this family was a great sup- 
 porter of Charles I., who, on 
 the scaffold, gave him (Jacob 
 Preston) an emerald ring, which 
 is still treasured here. There 
 is a large lake in the park, 
 well stocked with fish, but it is, 
 of course, strictly private. This 
 park and hall are the beau ideal 
 of an English gentleman's home. 
 The church (St. Lawrence) is 
 a small structure, with a round 
 tower, and was restored by Sir 
 Thos. Preston at the beginning 
 of this century. The east window 
 is filled with stained glass, and 
 beneath is an oil painting of the 
 Last Supper. Many elaborate 
 memorials of the Prestons may 
 be seen in the church. 
 
 The Broad is fringed round 
 with reed-banks, and surrounded by undulating country, 
 but is not quite so picturesque as some of the Broads 
 we have visited. 
 
 Barton is a very straggling village, and contains 
 
 Stained-glass Panel- 
 Barton Church. 
 
160 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 a very noble church, which, standing on a hill, causes 
 it to be a notable object in the surrounding landscape. 
 It is delightfully embowered amid trees, and should be 
 visited, if only for the remarkable view of the Broad 
 and district which may be obtained from its lofty 
 tower. There are a few odd panels of ancient stained 
 glass, of which the engraving on page 159 is a 
 tracery piece. 
 
 By all means devote a day to angling on Barton 
 Broad, as you are almost certain to get a good basket. 
 For obvious reasons, it would be useless for me to 
 mention the best spots for angling; but any of the 
 old reed-men may be induced to show you a warm 
 corner. 
 
 At the North end of the Broad is the dyke leading 
 to Stalham Broad, which is of considerable size, but 
 greatly grown up. In passing up the river from 
 Barton to Stalham Broad, bear to the right. The 
 channel on your left, which you will pass, is a con- 
 tinuation of the Ant. Thousands of water-lilies, both 
 white and yellow, grow in this Broad, and a very 
 pretty water-bouquet may be made by those who are 
 returning to town ; if gathered when the flowers are 
 just opening, they will keep for a long time if the 
 stems be placed in water. 
 
 Stalham Church contains a very old font, round 
 which are stone carvings of the Apostles and the 
 Baptism of our Saviour; this font, until restored by 
 the Vicar in i860, was an unsightly mass of cement 
 and whitewash. The roof has just been renewed. 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 161 
 
 and placed at its proper angle, in place of the 
 dreadfully depressed structure which had for years 
 covered the nave 
 
 Stalham town is five minutes' walk north of the 
 Staithe, or landing-place. Mr. Teasdel, who has quite 
 a fleet of small sailing and rowing boats to let, will 
 
 STvLHAM Staithe hy Moonlight 
 
 give the visitor every informa- 
 tion that he can, and is quite 
 an authority on angling and shooting. He will 
 tell the stranger the most likely spots, and will supply 
 him with anything he may require, from a boat to a 
 loaf of bread. It is expedient, when out for a day's 
 angling, to take a couple of stout ash-poles, about 
 8ft. or 9ft. long (never mind how rough they are), 
 
 M 
 
162 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 to which to moor the boat. Having chosen your 
 spot, stick the poles firmly into the ground, and moor 
 the boat stem and stern to them. 
 
 The railway station lies to the west of the town, 
 about three-quarters of a mile from the Staithe, and 
 seventeen miles from Yarmouth. 
 
 The main street contains several good shops, so it 
 would be as well to take our man with us, and 
 replenish our larder here. There is a butcher's, a 
 baker's, an ironmonger's (who keeps a supply of 
 fishing tackle), a capital grocer's, a chemist's, and 
 several other handy shops. Having made sundry and 
 very miscellaneous purchases, we send the man back 
 to the Staithe, accompanied by a boy, both heavily 
 laden, while we take a walk to Ingham, one mile to 
 the east. Here the church is the sole object of interest, 
 and is a remarkably fine building, standing on rising 
 ground, and reckoned, for proportion and workmanship, 
 equal to any in the county. The lordship of Ingham can 
 be traced back to the time of Richard I., when John de 
 Ingham was lord of the manor. Oliver de Ingham (a 
 successor) was a great favourite of Edward II., who made 
 him governor of several castles. Seneschal of Gascoine, 
 and Warden of Guyenne, in France, as a mark of approval 
 for the valiant manner in which Oliver fought for him. 
 
 The church (Holy Trinity) was rebuilt in the year 
 1360, and appropriated by Thomas Percy, Bishop of 
 Norwich. Sir Oliver founded a College, or Priory, 
 for the use of a prior, a sacrist, and six monks of 
 the order of Trinity and St. Victor ; the ruins of it may 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 163 
 
 still be seen in the churchyard. Under an arch in 
 the north side of the chancel lies the sculptured effigy 
 of Sir Oliver de Ingham (Edward III.'s reign), who 
 was Marshal of Guyenne ; on the side of his tomb w^as 
 inscribed : " '^kXovnsiex ^livcv be ^n^^am gts( kg, et 
 ^ame §ix^ahetf) sa compagnc, que Iitp ptcu be tcs 
 aime^, bit ntcrcp." 
 
 At the east end of the church, by the rood-loft, is 
 an altar-tomb, with sculptured figures of Sir Roger de 
 Bois and Margaret his wife ; the knight is in complete 
 armour ; his head rests on the body of a Saracen, and 
 at his feet lies a hound, with its paws resting upon 
 a gauntlet. His arms [argent, two bars with a canton 
 gules \ over all a fillet sable) may still be discerned on 
 his surtout. The lady's robe also shows her arms 
 quartered with those of Sir Roger. In the year 1800, 
 the brasses, which were among the finest in the 
 country, were stolen from the church. 
 
 From Ingham to Happisburgh, or Hasbro', as it is 
 locally known, is a pleasant walk of four miles. This 
 place, formerly a busy little fishing village, is now 
 a purely agricultural spot, with its shore washed by 
 the German Ocean, which is only kept from making 
 incursions by the narrow banks, which commence 
 here, and extend quite to Winterton. The original 
 village of Hasbro' was swallowed by the encroaching 
 sea ages since, and the fishermen affirm that, when 
 the sea is clear and calm, they can, at low tide, by 
 peering down into the depths, distinguish the ruins 
 of the village, especially those of the .church. As a 
 
 M 2 
 
164 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 matter of fact, portions of the walls, and other relics 
 of this lost village, have from time to time been 
 dredged up and brought ashore. 
 
 The modern village is gradually being swept away ; 
 scarcely a winter passes but what a few yards of the 
 land along the coast are swallowed by the north-west 
 gales which prevail. Fields which, during recollection, 
 contained several acres, have either entirely vanished, 
 or have dwindled into mere patches. Several other 
 villages on the Norfolk coast have been gradually swept 
 away, until not a wreck of them remains — Keswick, 
 Whimpwell, and Shipden, among others. 
 
 There is a lifeboat and a Coastguard Station here. 
 The latter is an almost new building, the sea having 
 encroached so much that the old buildings now stand 
 nodding upon the brink of the cliffs. 
 
 Happisburgh is noted for its ancient church and two 
 lofty lighthouses. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, 
 is a particularly handsome edifice, erected in an 
 imposing position, on an eminence overlooking the 
 sea. This hill is 130ft. above high-water mark, and 
 the noble tower, rising to a farther altitude of 112ft., 
 commands a grand view", both of sea and land. 
 The keys of the church may be obtained of the sexton, 
 who lives in a cottage adjoining the churchyard. 
 At the chancel end of the church is an old tombstone, 
 with a very rude attempt at versification. It is erected 
 to the memory of two brothers — Thomas and Johnson 
 Canning, lost off Hasbro', February i8th, 1807, and 
 runs as follows : 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 165 
 
 A storm arose, with Snow and Rain ; 
 
 The " Abeona " to presarve we strove ; 
 In Vain we stood for land, our lives to 
 
 Save — our efforts sunk beneath the wave ; 
 Short was our stay on earth below ; 
 
 To our souls may Heaven its mercy show. 
 
 This would read much better if put into correct 
 lines ; but either the tombstone was too narrow, or 
 the letters too large, for what they had left over 
 from one line they used to give them a start on the 
 next. 
 
 Standing by this grave, a very fine sea view is 
 obtained ; and if you have a short time to spare, you 
 may while it away with the old sea-dog, Galbraith, 
 who lives in the little tarred, wooden cottage, adjoining 
 the churchyard. He will yarn you till you are both 
 dry ; but be not alarmed at that, for the inn is next 
 door. 
 
 Nine miles from the shore, opposite the village, are 
 the dreaded Haisbro' Sands, the most dangerous of any 
 on the English coast. Despite the fact of their being 
 indicated by the two land lighthouses previously men- 
 tioned, and one floating light, these sands are, in hazy 
 and stormy weather, much dreaded by those mariners 
 whose vocation takes them near the spot. Hundreds 
 of vessels have been wrecked here, and I have known 
 as many as seven vessels to be on them at the same 
 time, not one of which was ever floated again. Volumes 
 might be written concerning the fell disasters which 
 have occurred here, and which have made the sea for 
 some distance around one vast grave. One narrative 
 
166 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 will serve to show the danger of this coast, which has 
 only one harbour in its coast line of lOO miles. In 
 October, 1876, the barque ''Young England," with a 
 crew of twenty-five all told, was wrecked here. Amid 
 the fury of a north-west gale, thirteen of the hands 
 (twelve men and a boy) successfully launched the long- 
 boat, and pulled for the shore. Such was the strength 
 of the gale, however, that, instead of being able to land 
 at Hasbro', they were carried, in a diagonal line, to 
 within 20oyds. of the shore of the village of Winterton, 
 twelve miles to the south, arriving there in an exhausted 
 condition. It was dark ; no friendly forms were visible 
 on the shore ; nothing was to be seen but the cruel, 
 white-crested billows, roaring on the flat, sandy beach. 
 They paused a moment, to consider the best means 
 of reaching shore safely ; but the pause was fatal, 
 for, the next moment, a tremendous sea struck the 
 counter of their craft, which broached-to, and was 
 instantly overwhelmed. For a brief space of time, a 
 few screams were heard, amid the chaos of broken 
 water, from the doomed crew, and then all was still, 
 save for the voice of the storm, which raged with 
 unabated fury. But, as day broke, the coastguards- 
 men saw that an object had been cast upon the tide- 
 deserted beach ; this proved to be a boy, upon each 
 of whose wrists was fastened a bag of linen. The 
 bags had floated him ashore, and he still lived (though 
 with a broken thigh-bone), the sole survivor of the 
 long-boat's crew. The captain and his wife, and 
 ten of the crew, who had remained on the vessel, were 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 167 
 
 saved by a tug from Yarmouth. A day or two after, 
 the bodies of six of the men from the long-boat were 
 washed ashore (irony of fate !) at the very place they 
 had endeavoured to land at — Hasbro'. Six finer men 
 never were laid forth for the last rites of mortals ; 
 the mate, a young Norwegian, 6ft. 4in. in height, 
 was a very handsome man, and of giant frame. On 
 searching him, a letter to his sweetheart was found 
 in the breast of his jersey, and was duly forwarded 
 to her, with particulars of his untimely fate. They 
 were all buried in one grave, at the chancel end of 
 the churchyard, and their resting-place is marked 
 by a handsome stone, upon which is carved the appro- 
 priate emblem of a " foul anchor." 
 
 As, after the walk from Stalham, and the climb to 
 the top of the church-tower, the pedestrian will need 
 refreshments and a rest, he cannot do better than 
 stay for an hour or two at the only inn near — the 
 Hill House. After refreshing the inner man, and 
 viewing all that is to be seen through the telescope 
 kept in the Green Room, if time permits, a game 
 of bowls may be indulged in on the capital bowling- 
 green belonging to the Inn. Bowls seems to be 
 par excellence " the " game in Norfolk, and ' comes 
 much more under notice than cricket, as it can 
 be played by persons of any age and size, and 
 without the slightest fatigue. For a portly gentleman 
 of some sixty summers, and 20st., or a trifle more, 
 in weight, cricket is out of the question ; but a 
 quart of " Old Tom," as the best ale is here called, 
 
168 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 a yard of clay, and a four-handed game of bowls, will 
 suit him admirably. 
 
 Nearly every village throughout Norfolk has its 
 bowling-green, and, on the weekly meeting afternoon, 
 the show of '' churchwardens " and burly bucolics is 
 amazing. Here the latter meet all through the summer, 
 except during harvest, and, like Drake and Frobisher, 
 of Good Queen Bess's reign, are such enthusiasts, 
 that they play very late, so that the ''jack" has to be 
 marked with a piece of white paper or a lanthorn, to 
 finish "just this one game." 
 
 The High Light is half-a-mile from the church, and 
 stands on an eminence some distance from the sea. 
 It is an unusually lofty tower, upwards of looft. in 
 height, and shows a very powerful revolving light for 
 a distance of about twenty miles. Visitors are allowed 
 to go over this building, not only to see the lens, and 
 the mechanism for making the light revolve, but also 
 to see the process of making gas for the supply of 
 the sixty-four burners which constitute the " light." 
 The word " revolve " is a misnomer, as the light does 
 not revolve in any way; a cap simply comes over 
 the light, as an extinguisher does over a candle, and 
 remains there for a period of five seconds, during 
 which time no light is seen at sea. It then shows 
 a bright light for twenty-five seconds, again disappears 
 for five, and so on ad infinitum. The Low Light, 
 which was erected about 1790, stood upon the brink 
 of the cliffs, a well-known landmark by day, and 
 beacon by night, to the thousands of colliers and 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 169 
 
 fishing vessels annually passing along the coast. It 
 was lighted in many different ways. At first, 
 the lantern was a huge iron frame, upon which a 
 fire was kept burning all night, the fuel used being 
 principally tarry wreck-wood, which would burn well 
 in all weathers. Next, a glass screen, or lantern, was 
 erected above the watch-room, and in this a large 
 number of tallow candles were constantly kept burning, 
 the keeper being in attendance all night for the 
 purpose of snuffing and replenishing them. Oil lamps 
 were then successfully introduced, which gave a more 
 brilliant light, and required less attention. The keepers, 
 however, had a great deal to do in the way of 
 cleaning and burnishing the numerous silver-plated 
 reflectors by which the lights from the lamps were 
 both enhanced and multiplied. An oil lamp, on an im- 
 proved principle, came into use some twenty-five years 
 since, which gave a still greater illuminating power, 
 and this was a kind of Argand, and the wicks were 
 in concentric circles, one inside the other, to the 
 number of four or more, according to the power 
 required. Ten years since, gas took the place of 
 oil, and is still the best illuminating power available, 
 as other lights, though more brilliant and powerful, 
 have the drawback of suddenly going out, especially 
 the electric light. 
 
 In consequence of the High Light having been trans- 
 formed into a revolving light, and an extra light-vessel 
 being placed at the extremity of the dreaded Haisbro' 
 Sands, Haisbro' Low Light was, in the summer of 1886, 
 
170 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 condemned by the Trinity Board, and sold by tender to 
 the highest bidder. The mode of razing the tower was 
 very simple and very effective. First, a line of bricks 
 was taken out all round, about 14ft. to i6ft. from the 
 ground. Into this gap the heads of a number of strong 
 props, or rough battens, were placed, the other ends 
 being firmly planted in the ground. Men then dug away 
 the foundation of the tower, as much as they considered 
 prudent, so as to leave it in a very weak state. A 
 load of faggots was then placed beneath the supporting 
 logs, and lighted. Soon the logs began to burn through 
 and fall away one by one ; and then, without a moment's 
 warning, the whole fabric. Soft, in height, came to the 
 ground with a dull roar, amid a chaos of smoke, 
 dust, and flames. When the clouds of smoke had 
 blown away, it was discovered that the watch-room 
 had come down intact, without even breaking the 
 floor or glass windows, and this from a height, from 
 ground-line to floor of watch-room, of 6oft. ! Thus 
 was removed one of the best-known landmarks of the 
 East Coast, the loss of which is deplored by the 
 thousands of mariners who pass by annually, almost 
 as much as if an old friend or relation had been 
 removed by death. 
 
 During the autumn of 1886, Jenkinson, the chief 
 coastguardsman, who, wherever he may have been 
 stationed, has always been an ardent seeker after 
 treasure-trove, came across some huge fragments of 
 bones in a fossil state. This was at the foot of the 
 high cliffs near Hasbro' Church. This find consisted 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 171 
 
 of a jawbone, with several teeth (each weighing 
 upwards of lolb.), and some thigh and other bones of 
 enormous dimensions. Professor Taylor, of the Ipswich 
 Museum, immediately identified them as parts of the 
 skeleton of an antediluvian animal about double the 
 size of an elephant, and called the mammoth. Finds 
 of a like nature are constantly being made along the 
 East Norfolk coast, and these generally go to enrich 
 the County Museum at Norwich. 
 
 If we wish to lengthen our walk somewhat, we can 
 visit the small village of Walcott, and interview the 
 old blacksmith; John Gibbons, one of the strongest 
 men of his day, and the very beau ideal of Long- 
 fellow's Village Blacksmith ; his stalwart frame and 
 kindly, ruddy face, with its ragged white beard, form 
 a fit model for an artist. John, like Longfellow's hero, 
 sings in the village choir; ''roars out the bass like the 
 drum of a threshing machine," a neighbour informed me. 
 The church is medium in size, but capable of con- 
 taining the whole population of the village twice over. 
 It contains nothing very striking in the way of archi- 
 tecture, being of the usual type of Perpendicular work. 
 
 The churchyard is sometimes visited by epitaph- 
 hunters, who find several unique specimens to enter 
 in their note -books. Upon entering it recently, to see 
 if there was anything worth recording in that line, I was 
 at once struck by one which nearly caused me to re- 
 trace my steps without looking further, it was so touching, 
 and so startlingly original. It commenced thus : 
 Affliction sore, long time I bore. 
 
172 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 I should not at all wonder if the reader has met this 
 very verse before. 
 
 The next to attract my attention was better — a very 
 curious one, upon a, presumably, curious man : — 
 
 Here lies the body of W. W. ; 
 He comes no more to trouble U, trouble U; 
 Where he's gone, & how he fares, 
 Nobody knows & nobody cares. 
 
 Another admonished brotherly love : — 
 
 On Paul Blake.— 1835. 
 Go home, dear children, shed no tears, 
 We must lay here till Christ appears ; 
 Now we are gone, no sorrow take. 
 But love each other for our sake. 
 
 A very uncommon and cynical epitaph rewarded 
 further search. It was this : — 
 
 In Memory of William Wiseman, who died 5th of August, 1834, 
 aged 72 years — 
 
 Under this marble, or under this sill, 
 Or under this turf, or e'en M^hat you will, 
 Whatever an heir, or a friend in his stead, 
 Or any good creature, shall lay o'er my head. 
 Lies one who ne'er cared, & still cares not a pin 
 What they said, or may say, of the mortal within. 
 But who, living and dying, serene, still, & free 
 Trusts in God, that as well as he was he shall be. 
 
 Two very beautiful verses rewarded my final search. 
 The first was upon a child named '' Blanche, aged 6 : " — 
 
 This lovely bud, so young & fair, 
 
 Cut off by early doom. 
 Just came to shew how sweet a flower 
 
 In Paradise will bloom. 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 173 
 
 The other was also on a child's grave, " C.C.B., 
 aged 5 yrs. : "— 
 
 When the archangel's trump shall blow, 
 
 And souls to bodies join, 
 Many will wish their lives below 
 
 Had been as short as mine. 
 
 We may now either retrace our steps along the 
 road to Happisburgh, which is a mile and a half, or 
 take the road, past Walcott Church, to the beach, 
 and return along the sands, beneath the high cliffs 
 — a walk of two miles. It is a curious thing about 
 the name of this village, that it is spelt by the postal 
 authorities, Happisburgh ; by the villagers, Hasbro' ; and 
 by the Trinity Board, Haisbro'. It is pronounced 
 locally, Haisbra'. 
 
 Leaving Hasbro', we walk along the beach, south- 
 ward, and, as the tide is out, find it capital walking 
 on the hard, outer bank of fine sand. 
 
 The country hereabout is exceedingly flat — a dead 
 level, in fact — and, in many parts, appears to lay actually 
 lower than the sea at high tide. By the side of the 
 beach runs a kind of sea-wall of sand hills, or dunes, 
 as they are called, ranging from 20ft. to 50ft. in height, 
 and from 50yds. to 1 00yds. wide at the base. These hills 
 of sea sand are locally called " Marram Banks," from 
 the rush-like vegetation with which they are covered. 
 The plant forming this vegetation (the Arundo arenaria 
 of Linnaeus) is very little known upon other parts of 
 the British coast. It grows to a height of about 3ft., 
 and greatly resembles the bulrush in stem and leaves. 
 
174 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The leaves finish off with a hard point as fine and 
 sharp as a needle ; while the stem, instead of ending 
 with a large, brown spindle, like the bulrush, has a 
 head resembling that of rye-grass, but larger and 
 rounder. The root of the marram, however, is its 
 " saving clause," as it is several feet in length, and, 
 with its many lateral shoots, binds the sand, and 
 keeps it from blowing or drifting away. These banks 
 are, now and then, during heavy Nor'-west gales, 
 pierced, and great damage done to the fields and 
 property adjoining. They are kept in repair by a 
 tax, which is partly levied on the good people of 
 Norwich, twenty miles inland. 
 
 The beach all along this coast is very safe for 
 bathing, the currents rarely being very strong, even 
 at half ebb or flood, as the tide does not rise or fall 
 above 6ft. — a marked difference to some parts of the 
 Bristol Channel and the Channel Isles, where the rise 
 is between 30ft. and 40ft. 
 
 Two miles from Hasbro' Town Gap we arrive at 
 Eccles, and view the churchless steeple, standing alone 
 on the beach, just above high water mark, and wonder 
 how it came there. It is a circular, flint tower, with 
 an octagonal turret, and is 64ft. high. Once a year 
 a sermon is preached here, for which the Bishop of 
 Norwich receives the sum of about £50. Eccles was 
 once a thriving fishing town ; but, in consequence of 
 the encroachments of the sea (the land having been 
 washed away during stormy weather), it has dwindled 
 from 2000 to 250 acres, and only boasts a population 
 
UP THE ANT, TO BARTON AND STALHAM. 175 
 
 I 
 
 of twenty-four persons. In 1605, the inhabitants 
 prayed for a diminution of their taxes, on the ground 
 that only fourteen houses and 500 acres remained of 
 their once considerable parish. One stormy night during 
 Elizabeth's reign the roof was blown down and one 
 of the walls became dangerously infirm. This state 
 of things continued for a short time, when, as the 
 inhabitants w^ere unable to defray the cost of repairs, 
 the walls were taken down, and the steeple left 
 standing. At this time the steeple stood some distance 
 inland, but now stands on the beach, and forms a 
 well-known landmark to coasting vessels. During, 
 or rather after, a Nor'-west gale, in the winter of • 
 1 880- 1, the sand was scoured completely away from 
 around the foundations of the walls. Being in the vicinity 
 at the time, I visited the spot, and was surprised to 
 see the overthrown walls of the church exposed to 
 view, and also the foundations of the cottages which 
 once formed the village. There were to be seen the 
 decayed wooden thresholds of cottage doors, circular 
 wells, and other signs of a buried village. Close to 
 the church walls several graves were washed open, 
 and the bones floated about the beach by the tide. 
 It was a curious sight for anyone of a contemplative 
 turn of mind. 
 
 From Eccles we retrace our steps to Stalham, 
 which we reach in the twilight, having enjoyed our 
 long walk and long day's pleasure. The cabin of 
 the ''Lily" never looks so snug as when we have 
 been away all day, and return at dusk to find the 
 
176 THE LAND OF THE BROADS 
 
 little oil lamp alight over the table, and a smell from 
 the fore peak pervading the air, which, to a hungry 
 man, is a smell of comfort. There is, at times, another 
 smell in cabins, which is not so pleasant, and that 
 is that which is caused by a smoky oil lamp. To 
 prevent this, soak the w^ick in vinegar and thoroughly 
 dry it ; when you again light it, you will find the 
 smell has been banished. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND 
 CROMER. 
 
 I murmur under moon and stars 
 
 In brambly wildernesses ; 
 I linger by my shingly bars ; 
 
 I loiter round my cresses ; 
 And out again I curve and flow, 
 
 To join the brimming river : 
 For men may come, and men may go, 
 
 But I go on for ever. 
 
 — Tennyson. 
 
 LAZY morning with us after yesterday's long 
 ramble ; actually, breakfast not finished till past 
 '• Is the steam up, Fred ? " " Yes, sir 
 —this half-hour." "Very well— go ahead then!" We 
 go down the river from Stalham Staithe about a mile, and 
 then, turning suddenly to the right, resume our journey 
 up the river Ant. This small river, Hke most of the 
 larger ones, is very tortuous, bends and reaches following 
 each other in such quick succession that it is rarely a 
 straight course of a furlong presents itself. Two miles 
 up we come to Wayford Bridge, pronounced locally 
 ''Wafer;" here the mast of our boat must be lowered. 
 
 N 
 
178 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The high road to Norwich passes over this bridge, and a 
 splendid road it is, as any cyclist can attest. Norfolk 
 is a splendid county for getting about on wheels, as 
 it is very level, and all its main roads are kept in 
 excellent repair. In the Broad District, however, this 
 method of locomotion is at times awkward, as some of 
 the roads lead '' nowhere," and others end abruptly at 
 the edge of a Broad or river; in these cases, nothing 
 remains but to grind one's teeth or whistle something 
 soothing, and retrace one's steps to the cross-roads 
 again. 
 
 On the right hand, not far from the bridge, is an 
 old tumulus, or encampment, which rejoices in the 
 name of the " Devil's Ditch." It may have been a 
 Roman earth-fort, as the raised mounds certainly seem 
 to indicate something of the kind ; but how^ it came 
 there, or why, deponent knoweth not. 
 
 Our next halt is at the Tonnage Bridge, a very 
 picturesque spot, flanked with a countrified dwelling, 
 having a large garden and orchard attached, reaching 
 quite down to the water's edge. No other houses are 
 in sight — simply a vast common, tenanted in autumn 
 by innumerable geese, destined later on for the London 
 market. One goose-breeder near Norwich has sent 
 up as many as seven tons in weight of dead geese 
 during the Christmas season. The geese are marked 
 either on the feet or beaks, but never appear to get 
 mixed, for at night each flock returns of its own accord 
 to its appointed sleeping-place in the village. 
 
 Just past the Tonnage Bridge we get our first view 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 179 
 
 of Ruston Common, an immense tract, reaching to the 
 east as far as can be seen. The village of East 
 Ruston lies about a mile from the river, and the 
 clay cottages — '^ daub and wattle " they are called 
 — may be an uncommon sight to some, the cottages 
 being made by simply erecting walls of stakes, or 
 brushwood, upon which the kneaded clay is plastered 
 and smoothed. These cottages, despite wind, rain, 
 and frost, will stand for several generations, but are, 
 in these civilised times, fast disappearing. 
 
 Before coming to Dilham our course is arrested by 
 a lock, but by the payment of a small fee this diffi- 
 culty is easily overcome. It is quite exhilarating to 
 feel one's self " rising in the world," as the great flood 
 of white water comes rushing in between the massive 
 gates from the upper river, and we once more find 
 ourselves on a level with the surrounding country. 
 And a very pretty country it is, right away to North 
 Walsham, being in many parts beautifully wooded ; 
 some of the plantations come quite down to the water's 
 edge. These, however, are kept as preserves for game, 
 especially pheasants, and, being private property, may 
 be looked upon as sour grapes ; so we have to con- 
 tent ourselves with the voices of the smaller birds, 
 who make the woods ring with their noisily joyous 
 songs. 
 
 Presently we come to Dilham Bridge — built of 
 stone, and with only one arch — where we must again 
 lower the mast. A pleasant walk over Dilham Bridge, 
 to the right, leads to Honing, a snugly-placed village, 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 surrounded with timber. The approach to the church 
 is along a road beautifully over-arched with trees, called 
 the Long Lane. It is a beautiful spot in the summer 
 time, when the hedgerows are crowned with all kinds 
 of wild flowers. The church, dedicated to St. Peter 
 and St. Paul, was rebuilt in 1796, except the tower, 
 which dates from the fifteenth century. 
 
 Honing Long Lane. 
 
 I copied this epitaph in the churchyard, as a specimen 
 
 of the Norfolk peasantry's disregard for the tense of the 
 
 verbs : — 
 
 A tender mother she have been, 
 And many changes she have seen ; 
 And when on earth she did her best : 
 We hope her soul is now at rest. 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH VVALSHAM AND CROMER. 181 
 
 And we fervently hope that the poet who wrote the lines 
 is at rest too. 
 
 We have, as you will no doubt have noticed, passed 
 a great deal of fen and common land, and are scarcely 
 out of it yet, for just beyond that cottage on the 
 right is Ruston Common, of I don't know how many 
 acres, but large enough, at any rate, to supply turf 
 to the " natives " for miles around, and to maintain 
 multitudes of geese, and those very musical "Norfolk 
 Dickeys" (donkeys). Richard Porson, M.A., the emi- 
 nent Greek scholar, was born here in 1759, and 
 received his early instruction from his father, who was 
 the parish clerk. A Mr. Norris discovered his ability 
 and sent him to Eton ; from there he went to Trinity 
 College, Cambridge, and in 1803 was unanimously 
 chosen Greek Professor to the University. He died 
 in 1808. The opening to Dilham Broad is on our 
 left before coming to the bridge, but is nearly grown 
 up with flags, reeds, and rushes. The Broad itself is 
 very small, not covering more than fifteen acres. We 
 keep our course, with woods on either side of us, till 
 stopped by Briggate or Bridge-gate Lock. This is 
 one of the old gates of Worstead, Bengate, Lyngate, 
 and Withergate being the others. Worstead is a 
 bare mile from here, on the left, so we will stroll to 
 it, and, on the way, I will mention one or two facts 
 concerning the town. 
 
 Worstead, or, as it was formerly called, Worstede, 
 was at one time a large town, and celebrated as the 
 seat of manufacture of worsted stuffs ; it is now an 
 
182 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 ordinary agricultural village, with a population of about 
 850 souls. Worstead Hall, the seat of the Rous family, 
 stands in a beautiful situation, surrounded by a park 
 of 300 acres, in which are some fine old trees, and a 
 lake 85 acres in extent. This lake is literally alive 
 with fish — some of them are veritable monsters, as 
 very little or no angling takes place here ; it is, how- 
 ever, private, so that strangers have no opportunity of 
 enjoying an hour's sport. But there, if one could 
 fish, the great fellows would break one's tackle ; so 
 perhaps it is better to eat our sour grapes contentedly. 
 The Hall contains several fine paintings by Vandyke, 
 Rubens, and other great artists. In the middle of 
 the eleventh century, Worstede belonged to the Abbot 
 of St. Benet's-at-Holme, who leased it to a captain of 
 crossbowmen, one Robert of Worstede. Worsted 
 stuffs were first made in the reign" of Henry I., but 
 their manufacture died out with the last century. The 
 Church (St. Mary) is a splendid Gothic building of 
 flint, with stone dressings, and has a lofty, embattled 
 tower, rising to the height of 120ft. The period of 
 the foundation is not known, but it is of early date, as 
 Sir Robert de Worstede granted the appropriation 
 of the church to the Priory of Norwich, in the reign of 
 Edward III. The tower may be distinguished from any 
 other in the neighbourhood by its four pinnacles, each 
 weighing \\ tons, which were added some years since. 
 There is a peal of six bells, and a clock, in the tower. 
 I give an illustration of one of the windows in the 
 church, which is considered to be very pure in style. 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 183 
 
 Decorated Window, 
 
 1350— worsteaj) 
 
 Church. 
 
 The interior of the church presents a remarkably neat 
 appearance, and has a gallery at the west end. The 
 chancel is divided from the nave by 
 a fine, carved oak screen, adorned 
 with paintings of saints ; it was 
 erected in 141 2. Facing the west 
 end is another screen, upon which 
 are painted several figures, repre- 
 senting the Virtues. This screen, 
 the work of the wife of the Rev. 
 Mr. Gunn, of Irstead, was erected 
 about sixty years since. The ancient 
 font is hexagonal in shape, and 
 divided into sculptured compart- 
 ments ; the cover of it is a fine piece of wood carving, 
 rising tier above tier, and ending in a floral finial. The 
 Rev. Henry Wharton, author of ''Anglia Sacra," was 
 born here in 1664, and possessed (a great boon for a 
 public speaker) two tongues. One of these tongues 
 however, " grew smaller as he grew older, until it 
 was not at all inconvenient." When he died, in 1694, 
 he bequeathed twenty-two acres of land to the parish, 
 the proceeds of which (now £^0 per annum) were to 
 be devoted to repairing and beautifying the church. 
 
 Notice the north doorway, which is considered a very 
 fine example of mediaeval work. In the churchyard is a 
 tombstone to one Peter Clarke, which teaches a lesson 
 to all village gossips : — 
 
 These lines are not to praise the dead, 
 But to admonish those by whom they're read ; 
 Whatever his faihngs were, leave them alon^, 
 And use thine utmost care to mend thine own. 
 
184 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 John Starling, who for upwards of fifty years has 
 been sexton of the church, will explain the points of 
 interest to the visitor. 
 
 We now retrace our steps to Briggate, and again 
 embark. 
 
 A journey of another three miles upon the river 
 brings us to Cubit's flour-mills, and another lock ; and 
 as this is the nearest point to North Walsham, it shall 
 be our terminus. By passing through the lock, we 
 might continue our trip some distance farther, but as 
 there is nothing of interest to be seen, w^e will not 
 do so. The source of the Ant is at Bradfield, so 
 that, altogether, it is about twenty miles long. On 
 our right, coming nearly to the water's edge, are 
 Witton Woods, of immense extent, and the property 
 of the Earl of Kimberley. The road on our left, up 
 the hill, leads direct to North Walsham, which we 
 will now visit. This town, consisting of three principal 
 streets and several smaller ones, is irregularly built, 
 and contains about 3000 inhabitants, so that it is 
 the largest town for many miles round. The Market- 
 place, in the centre of the town, has a neat cross 
 (with a clock), built by Bishop Thirlby, in the reign 
 of Edward VI., and repaired by Bishop Redman, whose 
 arms may still be seen upon it, in 1600. The market, 
 since the advent of the railway from Norwich, has 
 not been so well attended. The church (St. Nicholas'), 
 a large, ancient structure, was greatly damaged by 
 the rebels in 1381, but was afterwards restored. Its 
 massive flint tower, now in a ruined condition, was 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 185 
 
 originally very lofty (146ft.) ; it was partly destroyed 
 by lightning in 1724, and in 1835 another large 
 portion fell. Two bells have, however, been hung 
 in the ruined tower, as high as possible. The aisles 
 are separated from the nave by very lofty, clustered 
 columns, so that no clerestory windows have been 
 inserted. The large east window was formerly filled 
 with stained glass, but this was unfortunately destroyed, 
 during a storm, in 1809. A remarkably fine sculptured 
 monumental memorial to Sir WiUiam Paston, who 
 died in 1608, graces the left side of the chancel; Sir 
 William is portrayed in full armour. The font is 
 surrounded by iron railings, in an octagonal form, 
 and is covered by a lofty piece of carved tabernacle 
 work, rising, in four tiers, to a height of several feet, 
 and terminating with a finial in the form of a pelican. 
 The church has a very ancient painted screen, which, 
 having been for many years hidden away behind 
 some lofty pews, was discovered in 1844, when the 
 whole of the interior was being cleaned and restored. 
 A stone reredos, of beautiful design, greatly enriches 
 the interior of this noble church. In the spandrels 
 of the entrance-porch may be seen the arms of John 
 of Gaunt, and the Abbot of St. Benet's Abbey. The 
 Grammar School, standing on the outskirts of the 
 town, was built and endowed by Sir W. Paston, in 
 1606. 
 
 On the road to Norwich, and about a mile to the 
 south of the town, stands a lofty, stone cross, erected 
 to commemorate the rebellion of 1381, on which 
 
186 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 occasion an assembly of 50,000 men, under the leader- 
 ship of John Litester, pillaged the surrounding districts, 
 and carried all before them till Bishop Spencer, at 
 the head of a large body of troops, forced Litester 
 to take shelter in North Walsham. This town the 
 Bishop then besieged, and, after nearly destroying the 
 church and other buildings, forced the rebels to give 
 battle on the Heath, where between twenty and thirty 
 thousand of them were slain, and their leader taken 
 prisoner. Litester was afterwards, according to the 
 gentle custom of the good old days, hung, drawn, 
 and quartered, and his remains placed above the 
 gates at Yarmouth, Lynn, Norwich, and his own 
 house. The remainder of the rebels then cried peccavi^ 
 and dispersed. 
 
 We walk back to the yacht, and after supper, 
 and the usual game of cribbage, retire for the night, 
 well satisfied with our day's pleasure. 
 
 As we wish to get back to Thurne Mouth as soon 
 as possible to-morrow, our song on retiring is : — 
 
 We'll be up in the morning early, 
 Just before the peep o' day; 
 
 and, true to our warbHng, we are up with the lark. A 
 mist still hangs over water, meadow, and woods, and 
 the sun's golden rim is only just appearing over a 
 low, purple cloud, portending a fine day, as we push 
 aside the hatch, throw open the cabin-door, and emerge 
 for our dip. The glorious plunge over, we dress, and, 
 while munching a biscuit, prepare our tackle, and 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 187 
 
 start off for a spot close to the mill, which our man 
 has ground-baited overnight, and there have a couple 
 of hours' capital sport, landing several mighty bream. 
 At the end of this time v^^e have as many fish as we 
 can conveniently carry, so we trudge back, in capital 
 spirits, to breakfast. What zest the morning air and 
 morning dip do give one for this first meal, to be 
 sure ! How we enjoy everything that is set before 
 us, and revel in the enjoyment of good health ! At 
 7.30 we start on our backward journey — or, rather, 
 commence to start, for we are brought up short by a 
 curious accident. We have cast off, and the propeller 
 has only made a few revolutions, when there is a jerk, 
 a snort from the engine, and a sharp snap, all in an 
 instant ; then, although the piston is working rapidly, 
 we make no headway. We see at a glance that 
 the propeller shaft has broken, and that, for to-day 
 at least, there is no prospect of moving. A council 
 of war is held, the result of which is that our man 
 expresses his willingness and competency to repair 
 the damage, if we let him have the help of an 
 engineer from North Walsham, and leave him to 
 himself during the day. We accordingly call upon 
 
 Messrs. , who send an experienced man back 
 
 to the " Lily," while we walk on to the station, and 
 book to Cromer, only about nine miles distant. It 
 may be noted that the Ant rises at the Antingham 
 Ponds, near Bradfield. 
 
 Cromer was formerly part of the parish of Shipden, 
 which was overwhelmed by the sea about the reign 
 
188 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 of Henry IV. Its ruins lie about half-a-mile from the 
 coast, and, on a very clear day, at neap tide, huge 
 masses of stonework may be seen deep down in the 
 sea; the fishermen call these ruins the Church Rocks. 
 Cromer, which is fast becoming a favourite watering- 
 place, stands on the cliffs, in a hollow between hills 
 which environ it on three sides. It has a population 
 of about 2000, and is still rapidly increasing. Previous 
 to the reign of James I. there was a small harbour 
 here, but in 1611 this was destroyed by the sea, and 
 no attempt has since been made to construct another. 
 Several landslips have been caused by the encroach- 
 ments of the sea during this century, notably in 1800, 
 1825, and 1832. After the last of these falls of rock, the 
 present lighthouse w^as erected 250yds. farther inland 
 than the old one. It is only a trifle over 50ft. high, but 
 the altitude at which it is built (250ft. above high-water 
 mark) makes up for its insignificant height. The lantern 
 is about 300ft. above the sea level, and on a clear night 
 shows a light to a distance of twenty-five miles. 
 
 The Jetty, which is a stumpy little affair, about 
 20oft. long, is the great promenade during the summer 
 months. But the glory of Cromer is its beautiful 
 sands, which are so firm that as many as a dozen 
 tennis-courts may be seen marked out on them at one 
 time. This is a good idea, as each successive tide 
 makes the ground beautifully level, and then all that 
 is needed is to mark out the courts, when all is ready 
 for several hours' enjoyment. 
 
 A steamer plies daily, during the summer months, 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 189 
 
 between Yarmouth and Cromer, and is always well 
 patronised ; it stops here about a couple of hours, so as 
 to allow of its passengers taking a stroll, and gets back 
 to Yarmouth about 7 P.M. The fare is only half-a-crown 
 for the return journey — in all, nearly seventy miles. 
 
 Cromer Church (St. Peter and St. Paul) is said to 
 have been built in the reign of Henry IV., after the 
 destruction of Shipden. It is a very fine building, of 
 flint and freestone, and is a good specimen of Gothic 
 architecture at its best period (the early fifteenth 
 century). The tower is a handsome one, rising to 
 the unusual height of 159ft. The church was nearly 
 destroyed in 1681, and for many years service was 
 held in the tower. It has, however, been thoroughly 
 restored, and now presents a fine appearance from 
 the outside, but has no internal decorations worth 
 mentioning, with the exception of some stained-glass 
 windows ; it is even now minus a chancel. The ruins 
 of the old chancel, which was destroyed by gun- 
 powder in 1 68 1, still remain; and buried beneath the 
 walls is the painted east window, which, in the forth- 
 coming restoration, will be brought to light, but doubt- 
 less too much fractured for restoring. The reason 
 that the chancel was blown up was because of its 
 getting into a bad state of repair; and, as the pro- 
 prietor of the great tithes would not go to the expense 
 of restoring it, he took the more forcible method of 
 ridding himself of the chancel and his responsibilities 
 at a single blow. The porch is one of the fine 
 features of this noble building. 
 
190 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 In Cromer churchyard are several quaint epitaphs: 
 here is one, dated 1755: — 
 
 Farewell! vain world! 
 . I've seen enough of thee; 
 
 And careless I am what you 
 
 Can say or do to me; 
 I fear no threats from 
 
 An infernal crew, — 
 My day is past, and I bid 
 
 The world adieu. 
 
 Cromer is surrounded by beautiful walks and drives, 
 and appears to afford a good field for scientific research 
 to geologists. Both Professsors Lyell and Buckland 
 Tiave visited it and its vicinity with profit. Visits to 
 the following places may be made : Felbrigg, with its 
 woods, and a Hall containing Flemish windows painted 
 by Rembrandt, Vandervelde, Brill, &c., and other things 
 of interest. The church" here contains a fine brass of 
 Sir Simon de Felbrigg, in full armour, who died 1443. 
 Gunton, with a Hall and Park, open to visitors on 
 certain days, should not be missed. There are, alto- 
 gether, about 1000 acres attached to this fine Hall, 
 which is the seat of Lord Suffield. The roof of 
 Knapton Church is widely noted for its beauty. It 
 is of a very elaborate description, and is said to have 
 been taken from a Spanish ship wrecked on the coast ; 
 but this is extremely doubtful. Knapton is three miles 
 north-east of North Walsham. 
 
 Mundsley, seven miles to the south-east, is a nice 
 drive along the coast. A new church was built 
 here, in 1881, of material taken from the old church, 
 
THE ANT, TO NORTH WALSHAM AND CROMER. 191 
 
 the tower of which still stands, in solitary state, 
 on the cliff. Sherringham should be seen, journeying 
 by way of Beeston Regis, where stop to view the 
 ruins of the old Priory, which are situated in a pretty 
 vale ; this Priory dates from the reign of King John. 
 Sherringham, a fishing village, lies in a picturesque 
 cleft in the high cliffs, and has formed the subject for 
 many paintings. Beckham, whose church is in ruins, 
 is about five miles distant ; lovers of the romantic 
 should not miss seeing these ruins, which are the 
 finest in the neighbourhood. 
 
 At Bacton, two miles from Happisburgh, are the ruins 
 of Bromholm Priory, built by William de Glanville, 
 in 1 1 13, as a cell for Clugniac monks — who were 
 subject to Castle Acre Priory — and which was dedicated 
 to St. Andrew. It was once famous as possessing a 
 portion of the true Cross, w^hich drew pilgrims from 
 all parts of the kingdom, who came to worship before 
 it, and to be healed by it. Such were its virtues, that 
 nineteen blind persons received their sight, and thirty- 
 nine others were raised from the dead by its power. 
 The ruins of the Abbey may be seen by obtaining 
 permission of Mr. Cubitt, proprietor of the farm, of 
 which it forms part. The gateway, dormitory, and 
 chapter house, together with other masses of masonry, 
 may be seen. 
 
 And now our watch tells us that the time for return- 
 ing has arrived, so we bid adieu to Cromer, and in 
 half-an-hour are back again at North Walsham. The 
 broken shaft has been mended during our absence, and 
 
192 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 over the happy accomplishment of his task our man 
 returns from " somewhere," in such a hilarious state, 
 that we carefully put him to bed and tuck him up 
 for the night. We then play our usual hand at cards, 
 just to last out a cigar, and then retire for the night. 
 Not to sleep, however, for we have no sooner dozed 
 off than we hear a footstep on deck, and then a 
 heavy plunge in the water. We rush on deck, and 
 in the dark see a man's head bobbing about. ''Good 
 gracious! Is that you, Sam?" 
 
 ''Yes, master; don't yow pay no regard tu me. 
 I'm haven a kuler, jest ter set me ter rights agin." 
 So we left him bobbing about in 4ft. of water, and 
 once more wooed Morpheus. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 THURNE MOUTH TO HICK LING, 
 MARTHAM, &c. 
 
 Oh ! summer is a pleasant time, with all its sounds and sights — 
 Its dewy mornings, balmy eves, and tranquil, calm delights ; 
 I sigh when first I see the leaves fall yellow on the plain. 
 And all the winter long I sing: "Sweet summer, come again." 
 
 <^T 8 A.M. we are once again under weigh, 
 returning along the river Ant, across Barton 
 
 L Broad, and thence, still along the Ant, to 
 where it joins the Bure ; then we turn sharp to the 
 left, and at noon pass St. Benet's Abbey, and arrive 
 at Thurne Mouth. Leaving Thurne Mouth, we pass 
 the little village of Thurne on the right hand. 
 The church here stands out boldly against the sky, 
 as it is perched conspicuously on a hill, apart from 
 the village. Thurne, Ashby, and Oby form one 
 parish, having been consolidated in 1604. The three 
 villages contain about 250 inhabitants between them. 
 Oby Manor House is an ancient building; the barn 
 attached is of great size, and bears the date 
 1622. Proceeding up the river Thurne, or Hundred 
 
 O 
 
194 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Stream, for about a mile, we come to Womack Broad, on 
 our left — a long inlet, of delightfully picturesque aspect. 
 Being an out-of-the-way place, it affords a snug and 
 appropriate sketching-ground, and to the art student 
 will give as much pleasure as many of the larger Broads. 
 The village of Ludham stands at the north end, and 
 the nearest railway station is Potter Heigham, two 
 miles distant. Ludham, after the dissolution of St. 
 Benet-at-Holme's Abbey, w^as given by Henry VIII. 
 to the Bishop of Norwich, who converted the Grange 
 into an episcopal dwelling; the greater part was 
 burned down in 1611, but the Palace was restored 
 and enlarged by Bishop Harsnet, who built a chapel 
 of brick ; this chapel, after the Bishops ceased to 
 dwell here, was converted into a granary, and the 
 remainder of the edifice into a farmhouse, which is 
 now called Ludham Hall. The church is a large 
 building, and is dedicated to St. Catherine. The 
 font, a very ancient one, is enriched w^ith bas-reliefs. 
 The screen is greatly admired : on it remains of 
 paintings of the Twelve Apostles may still be dis- 
 cerned, as also vestiges of gilding. 
 
 Continuing eastw^ard along the Hundred Stream, 
 we pass under Heigham Bridge, a favourite angling 
 spot, where many a finny monster has been lured to 
 his doom. The bridge is of stone, and has three 
 arches ; the two side ones, however, are too small to 
 admit of boats passing through. A few score yards 
 farther on we pass under the railway bridge ; the 
 station lies half-a-mile to the left. The Falgate Inn 
 
THURNE MOUTH TO HICKLING, ETC. 
 
 195 
 
 has, for a sign, a model five-barred gate, hung In the 
 usual manner; and on the four lower crossbars is this 
 verse : — 
 
 This gate hang high, 
 And hinder none ; 
 Refresh, then pay, 
 And travel on. 
 
 This verse was evidently the effort of a Norfolk man. 
 
 Potter Heigham Bridge. 
 
 as evidenced by the final .$• of the verbs "hang" and 
 ''hinder" being absent. 
 
 On our right we pass the hamlet of Bastwick, with 
 its solitary tower, mourning the loss of its ruined 
 church, and continue straight along until we arrive 
 at the dyke, on the left, leading into Heigham Sound, 
 a celebrated haunt of the pike. From the Sound we 
 pass into Whiteslea, and thence, through another 
 
 O 2 
 
196 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 dyke, into the largest sheet of fresh water in Norfolk 
 — Hickling Broad. 
 
 Calling Hickling Broad, Whiteslea, and Helgham 
 Sound one, we have a magnificent lake three miles 
 in length, by nearly a mile in width at the widest 
 part, or at least 700 acres of water (twice the area 
 of Hyde Park, London), free for angling and sailing. 
 Except in the channel, which is marked out by stakes, 
 the Broad is very shallow, not averaging more than 
 4ft. or 5ft. ; so that, in case of an upset, nothing more 
 serious than a good ducking would result. In the 
 channel are spots 7ft. or 8ft. deep ; and in the dyke 
 between the Broad and Whiteslea it is deeper still. 
 The bottom is hard gravel, greatly overgrown with 
 weeds, and therefore a remarkably good place for 
 perch. A good plan is to go at night, with a pole, 
 and clear out the weeds for a space of several feet 
 each way, so as to leave a clear space for fishing ; 
 by the morning the fish will have entered this space 
 for feeding purposes, when, by quietness and care, 
 a good capture will result. Roach and rudd are quite 
 as plentiful as perch in these waters. A good place 
 for angling is at the Pleasure Hill, a semicircular 
 " rond " of reeds growing near the centre of the Broad ; 
 another is the Wor Bush, nearly opposite. There are 
 many other favourite spots, but by mentioning them 
 I should expose my own '* quiet nooks," which I 
 regularly haunt two or three times a year. At these 
 places I have had many days' excellent sport. The 
 Staithe is at the north end, where refreshments and 
 
THURNE MOUTH TO HICKLING, ETC. 197 
 
 boats may be obtained at the Pleasure Boat Inn. 
 The country round the Broad is rather flat, and the 
 sky Hne only broken by a few trees, some tremendously 
 tall mills, and the grey towers of a neighbouring 
 village church or two. I can myself speak with great 
 certainty of the enormous catches of fish which have been 
 taken here, having lively recollections of some of 
 them. Fancy a day's catch amounting to more than 
 a strong man could carry when placed in a sack ; 
 and this is no fancy, but a solid fact. Many long 
 days have I spent on this Broad, without even once 
 returning with a really poor bag. The watermen 
 who hang about the inn will, in consideration of a 
 glass of ale, give you valuable information as to the 
 best places for fishing, and for half-a-crown you may 
 secure the experienced aid of one of them for the day. 
 Some of these men are very droll fellows — full of quaint 
 humour and w^ater-lore, and are well worth the money 
 paid for their services, if only to '' pump " them, and 
 hear their yarns. 
 
 Catfield Station, about two miles from the Staithe, 
 is the nearest hereabout. 
 
 Fishing here, in a match against a friend, in 1881, 
 I landed 115 fish in two hours, which weighed in the 
 aggregate 341b. 10 oz.; but this take would appear 
 ridiculous by the side of some others of recent years. 
 
 A ground-bait composed of small barley, boiled 
 with treacle, and when cold mixed with a little earth, 
 is a favourite lure. 
 
 Hickling village is about three-quarters of a mile 
 
198 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 from the Stalthe, and Is rather a large one, but 
 much scattered ; it contains about looo inhabitants. 
 The church of St. Mary is a very fine one, only 
 recently restored. The vicarage was founded in the 
 reign of Edward I. Hickling Priory, half-a-mile north 
 of the church, in which were located a prior and nine 
 canons, was founded by Theobald de Valoins, in 1185, 
 and dedicated to St. Mary, St. Austin, and All Saints, 
 for the use of canons of the order of St. Austin. 
 Robert Botyld was the last prior (1503), and, with 
 three of the canons, signed to the King's supremacy, 
 in 1534. The ruins of the Priory are rapidly diminish- 
 ing ; the last window was taken down in 1825, and may 
 now be seen in the porch of the farmhouse connected 
 with the Priory. 
 
 A mile to the north of the Priory is Calthorpe Broad, 
 which is only about twelve or fourteen acres in extent, 
 and nearly grown up with reeds. I have caught some 
 large fish here ; but it is scarcely worth a visit — that 
 is, to the angler, although the artist will find it a 
 very secluded and pretty spot, and should not miss it. 
 
 We leave Hickling Staithe, cross the Broad, and 
 come back through Whiteslea, and notice a dyke on 
 the left, up which we go for a mile and a half, and 
 emerge suddenly upon Horsey Mere, a noble expanse 
 of water, 130 acres in extent. The fishing here is 
 preserved, but leave to angle may readily be obtained » 
 a favourite spot is Benwell's Reach, on the left upon 
 entering the Broad. This is a very pretty Broad, and 
 also one of the quietest. The east end being only a 
 
THURNE MOUTH TO HICKLING, ETC. 199 
 
 mile from the sea, we will not neglect to have a dip, 
 especially as we are to sleep here to-night. Until 
 purchased by Robert Rising, Esq., who has only been 
 deceased a few years, the whole parish was at times 
 flooded by incursions of the sea, which, entering the 
 Mere, killed the fish. That gentleman, by having 
 the marram banks repaired, and the land drained, 
 brought this fenny district to a high state of produc- 
 tiveness. He also had a road made, so that vehicular 
 communication with the next village (Somerton) was 
 established. The Hall, the seat of Captain Rising, 
 contains a good library, and also a fine collection of 
 Norfolk birds, all of which were shot in the imme- 
 diate vicinity. 
 
 Frequently, in the shallow pools around this and 
 other Broads, may be seen the stately heron, plying 
 his calling of fishing. Although this bird will eat 
 many other things besides fish, he is a most ardent 
 fisherman. His method is to stand quietly in a shal- 
 low pool until the minnows, small roach, or other fish 
 play round his legs ; then, like a flash of light, his 
 long, spear-like beak is darted among them, with 
 unerring aim, and a poor little victim is secured. 
 The fish are caught sideways ; but as the bird cannot 
 swallow them in that way, they are jerked into the 
 air, deftly caught, head downward, in the open mandibles^ 
 and then disappear for ever. 
 
 Many naturalists affirm that herons neither swim 
 nor dive ; but this idea is certainly erroneous, as, upon 
 more than one occasion, I have seen them swimming 
 
200 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 on Hickling Broad, in the open channel, where the 
 water is 6ft. or 7ft. deep, and free from weeds. 
 Although never an eye-witness of their diving powers, 
 I am assured that, in warm weather, they w'ill occa- 
 sionally dive, and travel some distance before again 
 appearing. Herons sometimes visit the beach, peer- 
 ing into the little pools left by the retreating tide, 
 and regaling themselves with shrimps, crabs, little fish, 
 or anything by which the pools (or, as they are here 
 called, ''lows") are inhabited. Although their staple 
 food is fish, they will also eat w^orms, snails, mice, 
 young birds, or anything else toothsome. 
 
 For nesting purposes, they invariably select the 
 highest elm trees in the district, and build their huge, 
 flat, round-table-top-looking nests quite at the summit. 
 The nests are composed of successive layers of large 
 twigs, small twigs, coarse fibre and leaves, and an 
 inner lining of grass ; each layer is more concave 
 than the previous one, so that the inner one is 
 fairly comfortable and hollow. The hen lays about 
 four or five eggs, of a beautiful blue-green colour. 
 It used to be popularly supposed that a heron, when 
 incubating its eggs, sat straddle-legged upon the 
 nest, like a man riding on horseback ; but this, like 
 the tales anent the Barnicle goose, is an exploded 
 myth. 
 
 Horsey being a treeless place, the heron does not 
 breed there, but simply makes it, with the surrounding 
 district, its summer residence. 
 
 Horsey Mere is a fine open, expansive lake, and 
 
THURNE MOUTH TO HICKLING, ETC. 201 
 
 is, therefore, a very suitable place for fishing or 
 sailing. 
 
 Horsey Church (All Saints') is a very old, thatched 
 building, with a register dating from 1559. The 
 nearest railway station is Martham, at least four miles 
 distant by road. 
 
 Again returning, through Heigham Sound, to the 
 Hundred Stream, or river Thurne, we turn sharp to 
 t!ie left, and keep to the east until we arrive at 
 Martham Broad, which is nearly square, and of about 
 the same area as Horsey Mere ; it is, however, not 
 nearly so clear, being in many places quite grown up. 
 This Broad is about two miles from Martham Station 
 by road, but is not often visited by anglers, although 
 some good fish are to be obtained there, and also in 
 the Thurne. It is situated at the foot of a hill, on 
 the highest part of which, a mile distant, is the church. 
 This structure is one of the finest we have seen on 
 our trip, and should not be missed. It is built of flints 
 and other stone, in the early Perpendicular style, and 
 has a lofty, square, embattled tower, of fine proportions. 
 Great care has been displayed in forming the flint 
 stones into various patterns on the outer wall. The 
 chancel is a veritable work of art, and quite a surprise 
 on entering the church for the first time ; it was rebuilt 
 and beautified, at a cost of ;£8ooo, by Catherine Alice 
 Dawson, as a memorial to her husband, the Rev. 
 Jonathan Dawson. The ancient octagonal font, sculp- 
 tured with representations of the Seven Sacraments 
 of the Catholic Church and the Last Judgment, dates 
 
202 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 from the fifteenth century. The church itself was, no 
 doubt, built in the reign of Richard II., as we read that 
 Roger Gunton, in 1160, gave it to the prior and 
 convent of Norwich, '^ for the redemption of his soul." 
 It contains several windows of ancient stained glass, 
 which have been recently restored One of them, at 
 the east end of the north aisle, is evidently of foreign 
 design, and probably Flemish fifteenth-century work. 
 
 There is a rabbit warren on the coast, upon which, 
 on a fine day, innumerable " bunnies " disport them- 
 selves, until summoned to help feed the mighty 
 metropolis. 
 
 Close to the south-east corner of Martham Broad is 
 West Somerton, or the '' Land of Giants," for it was 
 the home of the Hales family — the Norfolk giants. The 
 daughters were all over 6ft., and the sons ranged from 
 6ft. 6in. to 7ft. 3in. A relative still lives in the village, 
 whose shoulder I just overtopped when standing 
 beside him, and I am quite 6ft. high. It was quite a 
 treat to feel so small. 
 
 When the church of St. Mary was being repaired^ 
 in 1867, a mural painting, 12ft. long, was discovered, 
 between the windows in the nave, which had been 
 covered with several layers of plaster and whitewash- 
 The subject was, ''The Son of Man coming in the clouds 
 of Heaven with great power and majesty." Severa^ 
 other wall paintings were subsequently found, all of 
 which have been carefully preserved. In 1868 a very 
 interesting Early English painting of the "Virgin and 
 Child " was found under the floor of the pulpit. 
 
THURNE MOUTH TO HICKLING, ETC. 203 
 
 An hospital for lepers was founded here, in the 
 reign of Henry II., by Ralphe de Granville, Lord Chief 
 Justice of England. 
 
 Now, having seen all that is noteworthy on the 
 Thurne, we return to Yarmouth, where I will take leave 
 of my reader, as I have, I think, fulfilled the promise 
 given when I took him aboard the " Lily," by escorting 
 him to all the Broads of interest, and over 250 miles 
 of delightful river-way. 
 
 If the voyageur wishes to see more of the rivers, 
 this number of miles may be greatly exceeded, as 
 there are no end of dykes, channels, and nooks, which 
 are worth exploring, to which I have made no refer- 
 ence. I have confined myself simply to the rivers 
 which connect the various Broads ; but the Yare, the 
 Waveney, and the Bure, are navigable for canoes and 
 row-boats for many miles beyond the places at which 
 we have stopped in our present cruise, and these dis- 
 tricts will form delightful excursions for the hunter of 
 things rustic and picturesque. 
 
 I would point out, for the benefit of those fond of 
 walking, that some delightful strolls may be indulged 
 in without any great amount of fatigue, as the Broad 
 district is everywhere flat, and some parts of it well 
 wooded. I think a stroll through the villages and a 
 chat with some of the peasants always disclose some- 
 thing of interest. The patois of the people is very 
 curious to those who are not accustomed to it. 
 
 Trusting that this brief Guide may be of service to 
 the many who visit this ''happy hunting ground" of 
 
204 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 the East, I will now say farewell, hoping that my 
 reader may have fine weather and a pleasant time 
 whenever he may feel disposed to take a trip on the 
 Broads and Rivers of Norfolk. 
 
 I may add, as a kind of postscript, that I do not 
 mind answering queries (by post), so long as the 
 questions are concise, and not too numerous. This 
 I undertake as a sort of penance for any little short- 
 comings or omissions in this book. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 COMMISSARIAT DEPOTS. 
 
 flOR the comfort of a trip, it is of the greatest 
 ) importance that the Commissariat be properly 
 ) managed, as a great deal of the enjoyment 
 
 of a yachting trip depends upon the creature comforts, 
 as well as the necessaries of existence, being ade- 
 quately provided for. 
 
 With a view of helping the benighted visitor, new 
 to these parts, the following list of places where stores 
 may be laid in, has been prepared : — 
 
 Acle, — The town is a mile from the bridge. Neces- 
 saries may be obtained, but not luxuries. There are 
 several shops in the town. 
 
 Aylsham. — This town is a large one, though visited 
 by few, because of numerous locks, which impede 
 progress. Supplies may be secured here. 
 
 Btccles. — Anything required may be obtained here, 
 Beccles being a large market town, with a number 
 of good shops, well supplied. In stopping at 
 Beccles give the tannery a wide berth, as it has 
 
206 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 two distinct smells : one of the tan — which is pass- 
 able — and the other of the foul hides. Cave ! 
 
 Bungay. — Although somewhat inaccessible, this town 
 is frequently visited by small boats, the occupants 
 of which may rely on finding enough, and to spare, 
 of all they are likely to want. 
 
 Coltishall. — Here, ordinary requisites, at a reasonable 
 rate (especially country produce), may be obtained, 
 as the village shopkeepers have not yet learned the 
 art of bleeding a tourist, as taught in the larger 
 towns. 
 
 Hickling. — This town is a mile from the Staithe, and 
 contains only two or three of the ordinary village 
 shops, where they sell everything — from an egg-cup 
 to a faggot of w^ood; but it is as well not to rely on 
 more than bread, butter, and meat here. Pass the 
 bacon, as it is local cured ''black meat," and apt 
 to upset anyone who has not a cast-iron stomach. 
 Oil for lamps and stoves may be procured here. 
 
 Lowestoft. — Anything may be obtained here. When 
 lying at Oulton, the train may be taken to Lowestoft 
 and back for twopence, and an abundant supply 
 of anything eatable or drinkable obtained. 
 
 Norwich. — Stores of all kinds, and at same prices 
 as in the London shops, may be had here. Delicious 
 butter is to be obtained. Fish is usually cheaper 
 here than at Yarmouth, where it is caught. 
 
 Oulton. — Although a prominent yachting rendezvous. 
 
COMMISSARIAT DEPOTS. 207 
 
 Oulton is a poorly-furnished village as far as edible 
 commodities are concerned. Ice may be obtained 
 here. 
 
 Reedham. — This town being contiguous to the river, it 
 is easy to go ashore in the jolly-boat, and procure 
 requisite stores of an ordinary nature. The supply 
 is somewhat limited. 
 
 Stalham. — The town is a quarter of a mile from 
 the Staithe, and contains quite a street of shops. 
 There are two butchers, a grocer, a baker, and a 
 chemist. Lost fishing gear may be replaced at 
 the ironmonger's. The watchmaker will put right 
 anything in the way of damaged guns or watches. 
 
 Wroxham. — There are two public-houses and a 
 butcher's here ; but little else to help the hungry 
 or thirsty traveller can be got. 
 
 Yarmouth. — Stores of every description, and of the 
 best, may be obtained here. Market days : Wed- 
 nesdays and Saturdays. Fruit in great abundance, 
 of especial excellence, it being brought in from the 
 neighbouring villages, fresh plucked for the morn- 
 ing market. 
 
 At most of the villages, bread, excellent butter, 
 toothsome sausages, doubtful cheese, new-laid eggs, 
 and fair water, may be obtained. In the summer, 
 however, dependence cannot be placed on getting 
 them, as the hungry occupants of a large pleasure 
 wherry, when they run short, will often clear a whole 
 village of everything eatable. Fruit, during the season. 
 
208 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 is very cheap, and nothing, in hot weather, is more 
 wholesome. A salad may be gathered from some of 
 the gardens ; the cottagers look upon a salad, when 
 mixed up, as horses' food, but will eat the various 
 ingredients separately. Any of the rustics will tell 
 you what can be obtained in the different villages to 
 which they belong. 
 
 Norfolk is noted both for its beef and pork ; the 
 former cannot be excelled in England, and, buying it 
 direct from the butcher, there is no middleman's 
 profit or railway carriage to pay for. Taking advan- 
 tage of this, numbers of visitors with large families 
 bargain with the butcher for a weekly supply to be 
 sent to wherever they reside. Butter, eggs, and fruit 
 also find customers in this way. 
 
& 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SPRING. 
 
 MARCH, APRIL, AND MAY. 
 
 The earth in robes of verdure now is clad, 
 
 And Nature, smiHng, makes the whole world glad. 
 
 **\*^^l ^^E people hold that spring is the best time 
 ^''^^^ in which to visit the Broads ; but I must^ 
 jj^^^ for various reasons, take exception to this 
 — although it certainly has its advantages. 
 
 It is a gloriously exhilarating sensation to find 
 oneself, on a fine spring morning, after a long 
 winter in Town, careening along before a gentle 
 breeze, and upon a fair tide, amid the early love- 
 liness of bursting bud and blossom ; but, at the same 
 time, the spring months are very treacherous in the 
 way of weather. Rain is more likely to fall now 
 than in the succeeding months, and the days are 
 shorter, and the mornings and evenings often very 
 cold and raw. Many of the fish are out of condi- 
 tion, and, accordingly, very poor in appearance, 
 flavour, and sport. On the other hand, the weeds 
 
 P 
 
210 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 in the rivers and Broads, which have withered and 
 died down, have not yet had time to grow again, 
 so that there is more freedom for the angler's 
 tackle than later on. 
 
 During mid-spring, some of the primrose banks are 
 worth going miles to see, presenting an almost 
 unbroken front of beautiful sulphur-coloured blossoms. 
 Some of the fenmen might do quite a stroke of 
 business in these flowers with the London markets, 
 especially on the anniversary of Lord Beaconsfield's 
 death ; but these men know nothing of smart busi- 
 ness dealings, and appear quite happy in their life 
 of simplicity — we will not say ignorance — and retire- 
 ment. 
 
 Let us inquire more closely into the manners and 
 customs of these people. Lord Macaulay, when asked 
 to give an account of the manners and customs of 
 the New Zealanders, did it in an extremely concise 
 fashion, thus: ''Manners — none; customs — nasty." 
 This cannot be said of the fenmen, for, although at 
 least a century behind the present energetic age in 
 business matters, they will be found very civil and 
 obliging, if illiterate and unsophisticated. 
 
 The fenman here shown, with his towzled hair and 
 unkempt beard, is seen at his best, for he is in his 
 gala dress, ready for a water frolic, as they call a 
 regatta on the Broads, and a very different object — 
 with his smart hat and double-breasted, long sleeved 
 waistcoat — to what he appears if you could see him 
 on one of his work days. Then, early in the morning 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SPRING. 
 
 211 
 
 A Typical Fenman. 
 
 he is Up with the sun, and away through the long, 
 dank grass, covered with its dewy burden, regard- 
 less of rheumatism 
 or ague. If foggy, 
 a muffler is wound 
 round the lower 
 part of his face, 
 and his hat brim 
 turned down all 
 round, so that only 
 the tip of his nose 
 and his eyes are 
 seen. Very likely, if 
 he has far to go, his legs will be cased in leggings of 
 haybands or twusted sedge, to keep off the wet. 
 Are his spirits damp like the weather ? Not they, 
 for he knows that in a short time the sun will burst 
 through and disperse the fog, the dewdrops will 
 glitter like diamonds in the sun, the lark will rise 
 and carol far, far above his head, the cattle will rise 
 from their damp couch and low in the sunshine, 
 and he himself will whistle at his work, with a 
 serenely calm mind, with nothing but his present 
 labour to think about or care for. The fenman has 
 little regard for the future — the present is all to him. 
 Has he not a snug cabin, a nearly new eel net, two 
 or three suits of clothes, good health, and an equally 
 good appetite? What more can a man wish for? 
 Nothing : he is happy. 
 
 When we know their mode of life, we cease to 
 
 P 2 
 
212 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 wonder at their simplicity and their plodding ways. 
 We will go to yonder '^ eel set," and have a chat 
 with its owner as to his mode of life. His home is 
 simply a large boat, with a rough cabin in it, which 
 is furnished with a bed, a little table, a wooden 
 seat or box, a piece of broken looking-glass, and 
 a locker containing some dilapidated crockery. The 
 boat has been drawn up on to the bank, and is 
 probably so old that she would not float if she were 
 placed in the water. His nets are hung to dry 
 upon a row of stakes driven into the ground. 
 The picture is completed by a rustic paling of 
 wood, which, together with weed and rushes, incloses 
 the little plot, planted with cabbages and potatoes, 
 surrounding his dwelling. Here he lives the solitary 
 life of an Alexander Selkirk, paying no rent or 
 taxes, and owning no landlord, for the little plot, 
 a few yards square, has become his by right of pos- 
 session — for, did not his father and grandfather and 
 great-grandfather live here before him without hin- 
 drance, and why should not he? The landlord, upon 
 the edge of whose property he is located, does not 
 mind his being there at all, for our fenman always 
 has an eye to the grazing cattle, can always be 
 relied on for a helping hand, and is generally em- 
 ployed by the farmer during " haysel " and harvest. 
 
 During late winter and spring, when the weather 
 is suitable, the fenmen are busy cutting and carry- 
 ing sedge and reed. The latter is cut from the boat, 
 tied in convenient-sized sheaves, and then taken to a 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SPRING. 213 
 
 meadow and put in shocks, just as is done with 
 wheat ; it is here allowed to stand and dry for some 
 time, and is afterwards stacked till required for thatch- 
 ing purposes in the summer. 
 
 Some of these men are experts in the capture of 
 wildfowl, which are sent to Norwich market, and 
 sold at a fair profit. Wild duck, mallard, teal, 
 widgeon, wild goose, water-hen, coot, plover, heron, 
 grebe, and ruif, all fall to the gun and decoy of these 
 men ; while another, at times profitable, branch of their 
 calling, is netting larks. At other times they are busy 
 among the fish, especially during spring. 
 
 While speaking of the fenmen, we will for a short 
 space disregard the season of spring, and see how 
 they exist through the whole year. 
 
 June ushers in the ''haysel," or hay harvest, when 
 our fenmen lay aside their nets and handle the scythe, 
 cutting meadow grass for the winter food of cattle, and 
 marsh grass, or fodder, for littering them down in the 
 winter. For this service, they receive pay either by the 
 day, acre, or load, according to pre-arranged agreement. 
 
 Now comes a pause till the corn is ripe, when, if 
 our friend is lucky enough to secure a " harvest," he 
 earns from £6 to £"] in from three to five weeks, 
 according to the weather. This is his best stroke of 
 business during the year; and, indeed, this is the 
 only time at which he indulges in what he terms 
 '' butcher's meat.'' During the other eleven months, 
 beef or mutton rarely tickles his palate, pork and 
 fish being the usual food. 
 
214 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The harvest finished, September is here, and this 
 being the best running month for eels, our fenman 
 is busy with his nets day and night — mending and 
 fishing. His spare time is now taken up with gather- 
 ing mushrooms, w^hich, however, fetch but Httle here, 
 where they are so plentiful. Still, as he says, " they 
 are to be had for the gathering, and half-a-crown a 
 bushel is not to be sneezed at." Neither is it ; but 
 what back-breaking work it is, to be sure ! 
 
 Turfs, or " hovers " as they are called, are cut at 
 any time, just to fill up a few hours when there is 
 nothing else on hand. The hovers, after being stacked 
 up to dry in large mounds, are then ready for sale. 
 
 In the accompanying illustration we have a set of 
 implements used by the fenman in his many-branched 
 calling. There is his marking-out spade, and his 
 long '' cutter," for digging 
 down the whole length 
 of an hover — about 2ft. 
 Then we have his curi- 
 ously-set scythes for 
 sedge and gladdon- 
 cutting; his reed-hook, 
 or sickle ; his hooked 
 staff, for dragging in 
 stray reeds, so that he can 
 reach to cut them ; and 
 lastly, his thick, finger- 
 less, leathern gloves, called " dannocks." These are 
 a necessary protection against the sword-like boulders, 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SPRING. 215 
 
 and other broad-leaved grasses, which become very 
 brittle, and will cut like a knife. 
 
 Then comes the fall of the year, when sedge and 
 reed-cutting commence again ; and so, year after 
 year, the same round of dull duties goes on, our fen- 
 man being quite indifferent to the things of the world 
 beyond his boundary of life — the river and adjoin- 
 ing fens. It is a strange life, no doubt, and, when 
 talking to one of these '' real natives," it is very 
 difficult for a town man to find a theme of conver- 
 sation which will even be understood, much less 
 appreciated. It has been calculated that the English 
 language contains from 40,000 to 50,000 words, and, 
 out of this vast number, only from 800 to 1000 are 
 used by the fenman to express all his wants, and 
 engage in conversation with his brethren. It may 
 be noted, that of this number many are obsolete 
 words — that is, obsolete to the townsman ; and many 
 of them, although used in polite life, have quite a 
 different signification to what they originally had. 
 It is clear, then, that politics, the sciences, and 
 fine art, are beyond him, and altogether incom- 
 prehensible, so that a conversation on anything 
 of the kind would be to him Greek. Still, as 
 a chat with a ^' native " will be found interesting 
 and instructive, I will tell you how to approach 
 one, and draw him out. Tobacco is the key ; 
 then talk to him of fish, reeds, and boats, and 
 you will soon get him to tell you all kinds of 
 river and Broad yarns in his own peculiar dialect. 
 
216 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Poor fellows ! they often have a hard time of it in 
 the winter, when everything is snowclad and ice- 
 bound, and it is a hard matter to keep the wolf from 
 the door. Sometimes, during hard frosts, they will lie 
 in wait for a whole morning, amid the snow, for 
 the chance of a shot at a wild fowl (for which they 
 will get, perhaps, sixpence or eightpence), returning 
 to their icebound homes with their shaggy beards 
 and unkempt hair tossing in the wind, like old Norse 
 kings awakened after a Rip Van Winkle sleep of a 
 thousand years. 
 
 But we have arrived at winter before completing 
 spring, so we will put back our clock of the seasons, 
 and see what more we can say of the latter. 
 
 The pike fisher's best time is in the early spring, on 
 open days, with not too much wind, fishing either from 
 a boat or the banks. Sitting in a boat is certainly 
 cramping and cold work at this time of the year, and 
 requires two persons, one to row quietly and slowly, 
 while his companion makes his casts. The bank 
 fisher can keep himself warm with a good thick 
 overcoat, and the exercise of walking along the 
 boggy ground. Knee-boots are an absolute necessity, 
 or wet feet will be the result. 
 
 Do not, on any account, miss seeing the gulls and 
 their young during late spring. It is a most curious 
 sight to see the young ones, in their downy coats, 
 looking much like ''puff-balls," before they arrive at 
 the estate of featherdom. 
 
 The number of cuckoos here is surprising, and, as 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SPRING. 217 
 
 everything is so quiet, their notes are to be heard 
 for a great distance. They make their appearance in 
 April, and mark their advent by turning out the eggs 
 from a hedge sparrow's or other bird's nest, and 
 depositing their own in it. Having done this, they 
 contentedly go about their business of crying 
 ''Cuckoo," leaving the eggs to be hatched by the 
 unsuspecting foster-mother, who does not find out her 
 mistake till the young ones are larger than herself. 
 I am afraid the school urchins are sad raiders 
 during the spring in the way of egg-stealing, for 
 they appear to take all they come across, from that 
 of the tiny tomtit to that of the lordly heron. The 
 district is thoroughly searched for rare birds' eggs 
 by naturalists from various parts of England, who 
 not only take eggs and nests, but the very branches 
 they are built upon. This exemplifies the title to 
 Shakespeare's play, '' Love's Labour Lost." 
 
 For the contemplative man, or one who likes to be, 
 like Robinson Crusoe, '' monarch of all he surveys," 
 spring will be the most suitable time to visit the 
 Broads, as the sportive tourist is not yet about, and 
 the fish and fowl, after a long winter's rest, are not 
 so shy as they will be later on. 
 
CHAPTER XIV, 
 THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SUMMER. 
 
 JUNE, JULY, AND AUGUST. 
 
 Summer comes with cheer and gladness, 
 
 Every heart is gay and free ; 
 Nothing speaks of care or sadness — 
 
 Everywhere is mirth and glee. 
 
 *(*^^1 ^ ^^y^ the poet, and so say we. Now is truly 
 ^^^ the time of enjoyment. Everything is at its 
 )|^^; best. Flowers, fruit, fishing, and weather, all 
 combine to make this the most delightful quarter of 
 the year in which to visit the Broads. Long and 
 bright days, so suitable for camping out, and short 
 and warm nights, which present only a minimum risk 
 to delicate persons of taking a chill, are now here, 
 and the opportunity of a most enchanting holiday for 
 those fond of the water should not be lost. 
 
 The wild flowers in some of the reaches of the 
 Bure between Horning and Wroxham, and even as 
 far as Aylsham, are a sight to be remembered. Some 
 of the banks are a veritable blaze of colour ; and, 
 although all the colours of the rainbow, and many 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SUMMER. 
 
 219 
 
 more, are represented, they have a most harmonious 
 effect. A friend of mine, before leaving home, pro- 
 vided herself with two or three old books, and during 
 the trip gathered, with great patience, examples of all 
 the leaves and flowers she came across. These she 
 most industriously placed in albums, and formed in 
 pretty groups on cards during the evenings of the 
 following winter. It was wonderful what pretty 
 results were obtained by a little patience and skill in 
 
 White Water Lily. 
 
 arranging these specimens. This is a hint for ladies 
 who wish to know how to fill up their spare time. 
 
 Water lilies may be had in any quantity, both 
 yellow and white, and are to be found in greatest 
 luxuriance on some of the smaller Broads and dykes, 
 such as Stalham, Calthorpe, Womack, &c. 
 
 Do not allow these beautiful plants to be wantonly 
 destroyed by any members of your own or any other 
 party. These lovely flowers are quite a distinctive 
 feature of the Broads, and, although there is no harm 
 in gathering a few^ of them, there is no occasion to 
 
220 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 pull them up by their long, tuberous roots, and then 
 fling them away to decay, as some seem to imagine. 
 Leave them for others to see and enjoy. 
 
 Fruit may be obtained in abundance at most of the 
 villages at a very trifling cost, and makes a very nice 
 addition to the regulation regime. Should you be near 
 RoUesby in July, take a stroll through the village, and 
 notice the acres of raspberries growing there under 
 careful cultivation ; and do not fail to taste them, for 
 
 Yellow Water Lily, 
 
 they are accounted the finest obtainable in England, 
 both for size and flavour. 
 
 Another hint to the ladies. The carriage of a bushel 
 of this luscious fruit is very trifling, and for a small 
 outlay you may send a large hamper up to Town ; 
 what are not immediately eaten may be turned into 
 delicious home-made jam for the small fry during the 
 winter. 
 
 During this season fishing is at its height, espe- 
 cially during August ; and late in the evening you 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SUMMER. 221 
 
 may see the enthusiast, with his float hardly dis- 
 cernible, straining his eyes, and still angling to get 
 " just one more, and then we'll pack up." 
 
 Fish frequently bite quite eagerly as the sun is 
 sinking and the gloaming coming on, so that the 
 angler gets quite excited, and naturally wishes for 
 more daylight ; but, as this wish cannot be gratified, 
 some of the more knowing ones have recourse to 
 artful little aids to angling, in the shape of phos- 
 phorus-tipped floats, or floats that have received a 
 coating of Balmain's luminous paint, or some other 
 patent tell-tale. Very expert disciples of the craft 
 are, however, independent of any of these darkness- 
 defying floats, for they have, by experience, become 
 so keen to the sense of touch that they can fish 
 without a float at all. 
 
 The morning swim should not be omitted, and 
 may be indulged in early, before the ladies are 
 stirring. Take the jolly-boat, or dinghy, and pull to 
 a secluded spot, where you may indulge in a delight- 
 ful bathe and swim, to your heart's content and 
 body's welfare. At sunrise, there is frequently a thick 
 white mist hanging over both the water and land, 
 and, as I do not think this damp atmosphere cal- 
 culated to do any good to the uninured, it will be 
 advisable to allow the sun half an hour to dispel 
 the vapour, when a bath may be enjoyed with 
 greater safety. Oh, yes, it is an old joke, this vapour 
 hafhj and I was near repeating it. Those who cannot 
 swim should be careful where they go in, for they 
 
222 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 will find the water very deep in some places. It 
 should also be borne in mind, that the water is 
 always, during summer, much warmer in the Broads 
 than in the rivers, and that, the shallower the Broad, 
 the warmer will the water be. There need be no 
 fear of tides or currents, except within a radius of, 
 say, seven or eight miles of Yarmouth, towards which 
 place, without exception, all the rivers tend. 
 
 A better opportunity than this for learning to sail 
 a boat cannot be had, so the amateur yachtsman 
 should embrace it, and, if he commence with a small 
 boat, with a single working lug-sail, he will soon 
 become initiated into the mysteries of luffing, tacking, 
 making a board, going about, &c. If the nautical 
 aspirant happen to be alone, Hickling Broad is 
 about the best place for a first attempt, for, should 
 an upset take place, he can, from almost any part, 
 walk ashore, as this Broad is very shallow ; or he 
 may right the boat, climb into her, bale her out, 
 and start again. It is advisable, for many and obvious 
 reasons, to have someone in the boat who understands 
 the business, and can instruct others. I would give 
 one caution, to be observed when sailing. Never, 
 under any circumstances, make the sheet fast, for 
 one of the sudden puffs of wind which occur fre- 
 quently here, on even a calm day, will overturn 
 the boat before you have time to cast off the turns 
 with which you have fastened it. 
 
 The angler will find July about the best month 
 for angling in these waters, as, by this time, the fish 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN SUMMER. 223 
 
 have recovered from spawning, and are again in good 
 condition. From 4 to 8 o'clock in the morning, 
 and after 6 P.M. to dark, are the times to make 
 a bag, and the middle of the day may be devoted 
 to sailing, visiting the local sights, and the various 
 amusements which present themselves. 
 
 During early spring, after barley and late wheat 
 sowing, you will notice, as your boat glides by the 
 arable land, a boy in charge of several fields, to 
 scare the birds. Your ears will also be assailed by 
 his clapper and song. First, he makes a loud, rattling 
 noise with his wooden clapper, and then commences 
 his war song, w^hich always ends, in true Indian fashion, 
 with a terrific war whoop. Here is the Norfolk bird- 
 boy's song : 
 
 Cadders and crows, take care of your toes, 
 
 For here come the clappers, 
 
 To knock you down backwards : 
 So, hallo ! Carwho, wo ! wo !! whoop !!! 
 
 The clappers are constructed of three pieces of 
 ^in. board, of oblong shape, the centre one being 
 elongated to form a handle. The two side pieces 
 are fastened to this by a string, running through two 
 holes in each board, near the bottom. The wood is 
 strung together loosely, so as to produce a loud, 
 rattling sound, when shaken by the bird-scarer 
 
 Another contrivance, used for scaring birds from 
 newly-sown or standing corn, is the ''buzzer." This 
 is a flat piece of deal, not more than Jin. in thickness, 
 about 2in. wide, and Sin. or gin. long. The edge 
 
224 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 of this piece of wood is notched deeply all the way 
 round, and sometimes square holes are made through 
 the body of the wood, to produce more noise. A 
 hole is then drilled at one end, through which a string 
 is fastened, when the ''buzzer'' is finished. To use the 
 instrument, it is only necessary to whirl it round at 
 arm's length as quickly as possible, the result being 
 a buzzing sound, like the highly accentuated drone 
 of a humble bee. 
 
 Cricketers should make inquiries at the village 
 inns for news of any cricket matches in the vicinity. 
 The games are stubbornly fought, and great enthusiasm 
 is thrown into the inter-village contests. They are 
 not above receiving aid from visitors, if they are 
 good players. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 THE BROAD DISTRICT IN AUTUMN, 
 
 SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, AND NOVEMBER. 
 
 Come, mellow autumn, with thy morning mist, 
 Thy laden orchards, and thine eve, sun-kissed; 
 Thy days now shed a ruddy glow around. 
 And with a leafy carpet strew the ground. 
 
 P<|(1EPTEMBER in East Anglia is frequently one 
 of the most pleasant months of the whole 
 
 LnJJ year. The weather is generally warm, with- 
 out the sultriness of July and August, and the evenings 
 are generally gloriously calm, with brilliant sunsets. 
 The one drawback is, that the days are not long 
 enough, as, by the middle of the month, night draws 
 its dark veil ere seven o'clock has chimed. This 
 is the month par excellence for eels, and, as night 
 lines are allowed, providing they are not armed 
 with more than one hook, some good hauls may now 
 be made by those who have patience to bait and lay 
 a couple of dozen of these lines. The eels are princi- 
 pally bought up by one Yarmouth firm, who at 
 intervals send boats to the various rivers and Broads, 
 
 Q 
 
226 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 and collect them from the various eel ''sets," or 
 netting stations. 
 
 One noticeable feature on the Broads in August is 
 now conspicuous by its absence, and that is, the ever- 
 gliding swallow, which does not return till the spring 
 comes round again. These pretty birds, who nightly 
 muster in immense flocks during the summer months, 
 have now deserted their haunts, and flown far away 
 south, to their winter quarters in Italy, Spain, and 
 the north of Africa. How strange it is that these 
 birds, after an absence of several months, not only 
 return to this country with unerring instinct, but, in 
 some cases at least, actually to the very nests they had 
 occupied during the previous summer. This has been 
 repeatedly proved by birds being caught and marked, 
 and then released, when, upon their nests being visited 
 after dark during the following summer, the same marked 
 birds have been found. The storks of Holland migrate 
 in the same way, as was proved by a Dutch gentleman, 
 in 1885, who fastened a parchment band to a stork's 
 leg, requesting anyone who might catch it in the winter 
 to attach his name and residence. In the spring of 
 1886, back came the bird to Holland, and, on being 
 captured while asleep, and examined, was found to 
 have another docket upon its leg, bearing the words, 
 in Italian : " I have wintered at Florence, at the house 
 of Signor A ." 
 
 During the whole of the autumn, if the weather be 
 open and fine, fishing may be indulged in, especially 
 for pike, as these fish do not go to their deep winter 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN AUTUMN. 227 
 
 habitations until the waters become cold, and ice 
 makes its appearance. 
 
 When the weather is cold, fishing from a boat is very 
 risky work, unless one has an abnormally strong con- 
 stitution ; and I would not advise town dwellers to try 
 it. If they must fish, let it be from the bank, where 
 shelter may be obtained, or a sharp run or walk indulged 
 in occasionally to circulate the blood. 
 
 Perch and rudd are caught in large numbers during 
 September and October, and frequently, during these 
 months, the weather is exceedingly calm and mild. 
 As most of the tourists have finished their holidays, 
 the Broads are again very quiet. The visiting season 
 is during the months of June, July, and August ; during 
 the other nine months the place is very quiet. 
 
 At the commencement of the shooting season, in 
 September, the sportsman sometimes packs away his 
 rod and lines in a dry place, and unpacks his gun, 
 which has for so long lain idle. Now is the season of 
 the dogs' delight, for they will assuredly have plenty 
 of work to do to retrieve the birds falling amid the 
 reed ronds, and which would assuredly be lost but for 
 their valuable assistance. 
 
 The navigable rivers, being public highways, are free 
 to all ; but many of the Broads are preserved for private 
 shooting, and persons shooting wildfowl on them may 
 be prosecuted as trespassers. The close time for 
 wildfowl is the same here as in other parts of England, 
 but I am sorry to find that the law is frequently in- 
 fringed, and that with impunity. A shot at a crested 
 
 O 2 
 
228 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 grebe or heron seems to be an irresistible temptation 
 to some of the river-men, especially as they find a 
 ready market for any of the rarer specimens of water- 
 fowl they may get, even in the off season. Money, to 
 a poor man, is at all times a great temptation ; and 
 especially is this the case here, for these men see 
 money swimming and flying around them all day long, 
 in the shape of fish and fowl. Only this year (1886) 
 a wherry was stopped by the Preservation Officers, 
 who, upon examination, discovered a large net dragging 
 astern as she sailed, and in her hold a ton-and-a-half 
 of freshwater fish, destined for the Midland markets. 
 There are now several persons who carry on quite a 
 trade in illegally netted fish, with Birmingham, Leeds, 
 Sheffield, and other Midland towns, and who, although 
 repeatedly summoned and fined, repeat the offence, 
 as it pays them. Great quantities of freshwater fish 
 are consumed by Jewish families during Lent. 
 
 In certain marshes, mushrooms are very plentiful 
 in the autumn — so plentiful at times, that I have 
 known them fetch only half-a-crown a bushel. Septem- 
 ber is about the best month for them, especially if 
 it be fine, with not too much rain. There is no 
 objection to anyone gathering them on the marshes, 
 as they, in many cases, only spring up to rot again, 
 the marsh-men very seldom gathering more than 
 enough for their own use. What a place for an epicure : 
 tender, juicy steaks, and mushrooms for a relish, grow- 
 ing on the same marsh ! 
 
 October sees the brewing of some splendid ale 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN AUTUMN. 229 
 
 (which seems to be very much liked by tourists) at 
 Lacon's brewery, in Yarmouth. It is of quite a 
 different flavour to London beer — rather sweeter, and, 
 strange to say, with a decided taste of malt and hops, 
 which it is so hard to distinguish in the London pro- 
 duction. 
 
 One of the sights of Yarmouth, from August to 
 Christmas, is the going out and coming in of the 
 fishing fleet, which is, without exception, the largest 
 and finest in the world. Twenty years since, it 
 was difficult to find fishing vessels of more than 
 twenty-five tons burthen ; but now they are built up 
 to seventy-five, and even eighty, tons ; they are, 
 moreover, fitted with appliances of quite modern 
 construction and invention. Most of the large vessels 
 carry steam engines for hauling the trawl net, pump- 
 ing, and other laborious work, thereby saving much 
 time and manual labour. The abolition of the cursed 
 " coopers," or floating public-houses, and the advent 
 of the mission smacks, have greatly contributed to the 
 improvement of the social condition of the hardy and 
 brave North Sea fishermen, who, away in the wild 
 ocean, formerly had very little to look forward to, 
 except incessant toil and hardship. 
 
 Yarmouth Autumn Races, one of the closing events 
 of a very busy season, are held on the course between 
 the beach and river, near the Nelson Column. 
 
 The autumn fruit and poultry market is exceedingly 
 well supplied ; and the neat way the Michaelmas geese 
 are dressed is a sight seldom to be seen out of Norfolk. 
 
230 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 They are picked so clean, that it seems hardly 
 possible to imagine they have ever been guilty of a 
 downy existence. August and September witness the 
 landing of some tons of oysters, which are brought 
 in by the deep-sea trawlers. They are large, but 
 of good flavour, and cheap — seldom more than is. 
 per dozen. Of course, nobody thinks of leaving 
 Yarmouth without a few of the celebrated bloaters, 
 as presents for their friends. They are at the best 
 during September. When well cured with oak billets 
 they are delicious. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 THE BROAD DISTRICT IN WINTER. 
 
 DECEMBER, JANUARY, AND FEBRUARY. 
 
 Come, skaters all, your jovial prince adore ! 
 King Frost his icy court doth rule once more; 
 Come, glide; come, gleam. 
 
 In moonlight's cold, pale ray; 
 Come, make thy young blood tingle. 
 And drive dull care away. — E. R. S. 
 
 [f^j^WELLERS in towns who are fond of bodily 
 exertion in the form of skating and other ice 
 games, are but too little acquainted with the 
 advantages the Broad district offers in this respect. 
 Here the skater may disport himself over hundreds of 
 acres of ice, varying in thickness from a few inches to 
 3ft., which has formed on the overflown marshes. No 
 dread of death by drowning need haunt him here, for he 
 may exercise the graceful gyrations of his fancy and 
 feet without risk of running against, or being run into 
 by, other skaters; and, if he choose, he may select a spot 
 all to himself, and there indulge in his favourite sport 
 to his heart's content. For the bolder, and perhaps 
 
232 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 more skilful, skater, there are scores of miles of river 
 to be traversed, though with the drawback of fifteen 
 feet of water if he should go through. This very 
 rarely happens, however, as any tyro can tell when 
 the ice is safe to practise upon. In hard winters, the 
 Broads are frozen over, when sleighing and shooting 
 are freely indulged in. Anyone having a friend in 
 the district, who would let him know when this occurs, 
 might hastily get together a party of ten or a dozen 
 (all of whom should be skaters), and proceed by an 
 early train from Liverpool Street, next day, to Nor- 
 wich, whence they could select their own locality 
 for a day or two's good skating. A good plan is 
 to have a pair of stout leather boots made with the 
 skate screwed on the soles. The irons are usually 
 made on the pattern here shown. The boots should 
 
 be strong lace-ups, as 
 they give a great deal 
 more support to the 
 Skate Iron. ankles than side-springs. 
 
 They can be carried in a small bag, and put on or 
 taken off the feet as occasion demands. On some good 
 stretches of ice, if the company is numerous, booths 
 are erected, fires lighted, steaks cooked, and refresh- 
 ments vended at a reasonable rate. The ends of these 
 booths are left open, so that skaters may glide in, and 
 anchor themselves on upturned barrels, which do duty 
 as seats, and order any refreshment which they may 
 stand in need of. Sometimes parties are formed to 
 visit a village on the river some twenty or thirty 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN WINTER. 233 
 
 miles distant ; and, while luncheon is being partaken 
 of, the straps of the skates are unbound from the feet 
 of the skater, or " skateress," as the case may be, so 
 as to give ease and rest. Skating matches are of 
 frequent occurrence, the course usually being half-a- 
 mile out and home, the turning-point being generally 
 marked by a barrel, filled with snow, and with a flag 
 fluttering from a pole thrust into it. It does not by any 
 means follow that the first round the turning-point wins, 
 as it often happens that a competitor, having obtained, 
 as they say, "the length of his opponent's foot" — that 
 is, found out his capabilities — will make a waiting race 
 of it, and only put forth his energy in the last hundred 
 yards or so, when he will dart past his opponent 
 like a flash of lightning, and win by a yard or two. 
 
 What are the fenmen doing during this Arctic 
 weather? Well, these are really hard times with 
 them, as all labour has to be stopped, and they can 
 only snare and shoot wildfowl. This they accomplish 
 by fitting a flat-bottomed punt with runners of iron, or 
 hard wood, and filling it with fodder, or marsh hay, to 
 lie upon, and keep themselves warm ; then, in the 
 fore part, they erect a screen of rushes, furze, or 
 twigs, with an aperture to see through, and an 
 arrangement of crossed sticks, upon which to rest 
 their fowling-pieces. Their guns are old-fashioned 
 muzzle-loaders, with enormously long barrels, and look 
 as dangerous to the sportsmen as to the birds. Let 
 us watch a ''gunner," and see how he sets about his 
 work. See, here he comes out of his boat-hut, from 
 
234 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 the chimney of which curls the thin, blue, peat smoke, 
 indicating a cosy warmth in his little home. He is 
 warmly wrapped up — an old white cap is pulled down 
 over his ears ; a white comforter is folded round his 
 throat ; and drawn over his clothes is a long, white 
 smock, reaching below his knees. This is his uniform. 
 In his mouth is the inevitable stumpy, clay pipe (a 
 ''nose-warmer"), about 2in. long, and as black outside 
 as in. Over his shoulder is a rope, attached to the 
 bow of his punt, which he now commences to drag 
 after him over the ice, after first carefully depositing 
 his trusty firelock on the crossed stand before men- 
 tioned. Presently he comes to a likely place, and, 
 leaving his boat, creeps quietly along to a reed bed, 
 and peeps at some objects two or three hundred yards 
 off. Having satisfied himself as to the identity of 
 these dark objects, he comes back to his punt, and 
 enters it, kneeling in the stern, with his face to the 
 bow ; he then, from under the fodder bed, draws out 
 two stout sticks, shod with iron, and, taking one in 
 each hand, thrusts their points into the ice, and quietly 
 propels himself along. As he approaches the reed 
 rond, by a circuitous route, he keeps himself all the 
 time well hidden behind the screen in the bow of 
 his craft. When within 50yds. of his unsuspicious 
 victims, he lays down his propellers, and rests his 
 gun in such a position that it points a couple of 
 feet over the backs of the ducks, so as to just catch 
 them as they rise on the wing. He then gives 
 a tremendous war whoop, and at the same time 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN WINTER. 235 
 
 pulls the trigger of his gun. Then comes an exciting 
 scene, as he chases the wounded birds, and wrings 
 their necks, some of them having been only shghtly 
 hit, and givmg a long chase before being captured 
 — or escaping. He then returns to the battle-field, 
 collects the dead, throws them into the boat, reloads 
 his gun, and pipe, and, taking his boat in tow, looks 
 out for a fresh shot. 
 
 During any open weather that may occur after 
 Christmas, reed-cutting is commenced, and continued 
 till the work is completed in the early spring. It is, in 
 fact, carried on until the sap begins to rise, and the 
 young shoots are just appearing. 
 
 The cutting is done either by men, who wear large, 
 waterproof boots, standing in the water, or from flat- 
 bottomed punts, or reed-boats. A plank is used, 
 which either projects over the bow of the boat, or 
 is laid flat on the stumps of the cut reed, which easily 
 support the weight of a man. In cutting, an upward 
 stroke is made with the sickle (the reed being held 
 in bunches by the left hand), and care is taken to 
 cut the reed as far below water as possible, as a 
 saying prevails, that '' an inch of reed below water 
 is worth two above it.'' This may be accounted for 
 from the fact that the green part below the water 
 turns, when dry, to a rusty black, becomes as hard 
 as horn, and is, consequently, much more durable 
 when placed upon the roof of a house, in the form 
 of thatch, with only these hard " butts " exposed to 
 the weather. When the boat is properly loaded, it 
 
236 
 
 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Is propelled by a long pole, called a '' quant," to the 
 landing-place — or, as it is here called, '' staithe " — 
 and the reed carefully landed. The reed is then tied 
 into bundles, or sheaves, of such a size that five of 
 them are of the aggregate circumference of 6ft. ; hence 
 the reason of reed for thatching purposes being sold 
 by the fathom. 
 
 The method of 
 propagating reed, 
 is to separate the 
 •root-beds at the 
 cutting time, then 
 drag them to 
 favourable posi- 
 tions, and anchor 
 them there by 
 means of stout, 
 wooden stakes. 
 The roots quickly 
 fasten themselves 
 to the bottom, and 
 very soon the reed 
 spikes are found 
 striking upward. The greatest enemy to the young 
 reed is the starling, which is fond of roosting among 
 it before the stalks are sufficiently strong to bear its 
 weight. It sometimes happens that a reed-rond, which 
 apparently presents a good crop, is found, upon being 
 cut, to be almost worthless in the interior, from the 
 damage caused by these and other members of the 
 feathered race. 
 
 The Starling. 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN WINTER. 237 
 
 Besides reed, the Fens grow various other useful 
 plants, which are utilised for many purposes. There 
 is gladdon, a coarse kind of reed, with broad blades 
 and pithy stem ; this also is used for the purpose of 
 thatching roofs, but, from its more soft and spongy 
 nature, is not nearly so durable as the lordly, bowing 
 reed. There are also various kinds of sedge and 
 rushes, used for thatching bullock-sheds and outhouses, 
 or as litter for cattle, as well as coarse grass, which, 
 being too rank for cattle provender, is used for bedding. 
 Marsh hay, cut in the summer, is consumed in large 
 quantities by the cattle during the winter. Having 
 exhausted the store of above-ground profitable growths,, 
 the natives are, in the summer, often seen going even 
 below the surface for a remunerative article — this is 
 turf, and its lower brother, peat. This peat, or, as 
 it is here called, '^ hovers," is, when properly dried, 
 a capital and economical substitute for coal. It gives 
 off a blue smoke when burning, and this, as it rises 
 from the cottars' chimneys, wafts a rather pleasant 
 perfume in the air, which is a great improvement on 
 the soot-laden, evil-smelling smoke of the metropolis. 
 
 A peat-ground, properly managed, is a rather valuable 
 holding, as may be gathered from the following statistics. 
 The peat blocks, when cut, are about 4in. square 
 (shrinking by drying to about 3Jin.) by from 2ft. 
 to 2ift. long (the depth of the boggy surface soil). 
 Each square foot, therefore, produces 9 '' hovers," each 
 yard 81, each rod 2450; and, consequently, each acre 
 the enormous number of 392,000 hovers. As these 
 
238 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 are retailed at from is. to is. 6d. per loo, a good 
 profit must be realised. 
 
 In open weather, a great deal of coursing goes on, 
 as the Norfolk hares are said to excel all others in 
 size and speed, the latter probably owing to the 
 openness and flatness of the country. These hares 
 are greatly sought after for turning out at the various 
 coursing meetings held in different parts of England ; 
 and their flesh — if we may judge by the placards of 
 the London poulterers, who make " Fine Norfolk 
 Hares '^ a specialty — is highly esteemed. Fen hares 
 grow to an enormous size, and are noted for their 
 power of jumping, and their endurance over heavy 
 ground. 
 
 Multitudes of pewits, plovers, and wild ducks, find 
 their way to the London markets also, and realise 
 good prices, during the hard weather. 
 
 I would point out that, during the prevalence of 
 east winds, the Broad district is bitterly cold ; and 
 to persons at ail weak in the lungs I would certainly 
 say. Go south rather than to these snow-bound regions. 
 It will be seen, by a study of the meteorological 
 tables, that Norfolk is one of the coldest counties in 
 England during January and February, and one of the 
 hottest during July and August. For the robust, winter 
 here is a most enjoyable time, especially for those 
 who can shoot or skate, and also for the angler. Feb- 
 ruary is considered one of the best months for pike ; 
 but at this time the scenery is very tame, flat, and 
 colourless. 
 
THE BROAD DISTRICT IN WINTER. 239 
 
 Flocks of wild ducks and geese are frequent 
 visitors to the Broads during very severe weather, 
 especially on Oulton and Breydon. On the coAst, 
 line fishing from the shore, for codling, is a capital 
 amusement. Eighty yards of line, with six or eight 
 hooks attached, baited with lugworms, are thrown 
 out from the shore, during a rising tide, and drawn in 
 and examined every few minutes. Good hauls (as 
 much as a man can carry) are often made in four 
 or five hours. 
 
 Now, having glanced at the attractions presented 
 by the district during the four seasons, I will leave 
 the reader to select his own time and amusements ; 
 but I am certain that, whatever month he chooses, 
 lie will always find something to attract and amuse 
 him in the Land of the Broads, whilst, at the same 
 time, he will be recruiting his health. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT OF 
 EAST NORFOLK NATIVES. 
 
 Let not ambition mock their useful toil, 
 Their homely joys and destiny obscure ; 
 
 Nor grandeur hear, with a disdainful smile, 
 
 The short and simple annals of the poor. — Gray. 
 
 fgR. MARSHALL, the author of ''The Rural 
 Economy of Norfolk," writing in 1782, thus 
 describes the natives employed upon the 
 farms : — 
 
 " There is an alertness in the servants and labourers 
 of Norfolk which I have not observed in any other 
 district. 
 
 '' Whilst a boy, he is accustomed to run at the side 
 of his horses while they trot with the harrows. When 
 he becomes a ploughman, he is accustomed to step 
 out at the rate of three or four miles an hour; and 
 if he drive an empty team, he either does it standing 
 upright in the carriage, with a peculiarity of air, and 
 with a seeming pride and satisfaction, or runs by the 
 side of his horses while they are bowling away at a 
 full trot. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 241 
 
 ''Thus, both his body and mind become active; and 
 if he go to mow, reap, or other employment, his 
 habit of activity accompanies him, and is obvious 
 even in his air, his manner, and his gait. That the Nor- 
 folk labourers despatch more work than those of any 
 other county is an undoubted fact, and in this way I 
 think it may be fully accounted for. 
 
 " On the contrary, a Kentish ploughman, accustomed 
 from his infancy to walk, whether at harrow, plough, 
 or cart, about a mile and a half or two miles an 
 hour, preserves the same sluggish step, even in his 
 holidays, and is the same slow, dull, heavy animal in 
 everything he does." 
 
 These ideas of the Norfolk farm-hand are, perhaps, 
 rather too rosy for him at the present time, although 
 he still bears a very high character for honesty, 
 sobriety, and hard work. One hundred years have 
 brought about vast changes in the habits and daily 
 life of an agricultural labourer. When Mr. Marshall 
 wrote his work the labourer was a constant boarder 
 with his master ; he was, frequently, born on the farm, 
 worked on the farm all his life, and on the farm died. 
 Often children born on a farm never left it from cradle 
 to grave. They were, to a certain extent, bondsmen, 
 just as the slaves upon a West Indian sugar planta- 
 tion, but although, unlike them, they were free to 
 leave when they pleased, seldom changed their 
 masters. Those were happy days, both for masters 
 and men, foreign competition, both in corn and 
 labour, being then unknown. 
 
 R 
 
242 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Wages in those days were in curious contrast to 
 those paid in the present day. Thus : — 
 
 Yearly wages 
 
 of a teamerman . . 
 
 i"8 to ;^I0. 
 
 j» >> 
 
 ordinary farm-hand .. 
 
 ;^4 to jre. 
 
 j> »> 
 
 a boy . . 
 
 £^' 
 
 >> »> 
 
 a woman-servant 
 
 a to ;^3 3s. 
 
 >> j> 
 
 a girl . . 
 
 30s. to 40s. ; 
 
 and their board and lodging in all cases. Day 
 labourers received is. id. per day in summer, and 
 IS. per day in winter, together with an allowance of 
 beer, which was, doubtless, as small as the pecuniary 
 payment. 
 
 These were the halcyon days of Hodge. Increased 
 wages have brought him no parallel joys, for, in pro- 
 portion, his money has less purchasing power now 
 than a century ago. He is now upon his own 
 responsibiHty, hiring himself to whomsoever stands 
 in need of his services, and is liable to dismissal at 
 a week's notice. Compare the present rate of wages 
 with those of 1782, and it will be seen that the poor 
 fellow's rate of remuneration has not kept pace with 
 the times. The following is the present wage list, 
 with which Hodge has to feed and clothe himself, 
 wife, and family, and pay rent : — 
 
 Teamerman 
 Ordinary labourer 
 Boy 
 
 Woman-servant . . 
 Girl 
 
 I2s. to 13s. per week. 
 
 lOS. to I2S. ,, 
 
 2S. to 4s. ,, 
 
 ;^6 to ;^8 per year -^ and 
 i"3tO;^6 „ Aboard. 
 
 In consequence of these low wages, which barely 
 serve to keep body and soul together, nearly all the 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 243 
 
 able-bodied men either seek work in the large English 
 towns, emigrate to distant colonies, or, as is the case 
 with the majority, become fishermen. The farmers' 
 loss is thus the country's gain, for the North Sea 
 fishery is of world-wide celebrity as a school for 
 seamen. It must not be understood, from the above 
 remarks, that the Norfolk farm-servants are a horde 
 of feeble, old, or crippled men ; far from it, though 
 the present representatives are not to be compared 
 to those of former days. Five out of six of those who 
 emigrate ''ahght on their feet," as they express it — 
 that is, meet with the success their enterprise de- 
 serves ; indeed, some of them have, in a few years, 
 gathered together, by frugality and perseverance, a 
 comfortable competency. 
 
 Those who have the hardihood to seek their living 
 upon the sea are much better off than their land 
 brethren, but, at the same time, run gjreat risks from 
 the gales which always occur in the North Sea during 
 the herring harvest, that is, from August to Christ- 
 mas. Every season sees some of the poor fellows 
 mourned for in their native villages. Sometimes, 
 indeed, a great wail goes up from these bereft villagers ; 
 as, for instance, during the October gale of 1883, 
 when no less than 210 lives were lost, and a fund 
 for the maintenance of the widows and orphans was 
 opened at the London Mansion House. 
 
 The fisherman's life is a hard one, and only the 
 strong can withstand the toil and exposure conse- 
 quent upon its pursuit. A pecuHarity to be noted, 
 
 R 2 
 
244 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 is that those men who, at the beginning of the fishing 
 season, come from the plough to join the fleet, and 
 are usually, from their sparse living, thin, after being 
 aboard a smack for a few weeks, get so much heavier 
 and stouter that they can hardly be recognised as 
 the same individuals. This results from the increased 
 appetite created by the briny atmosphere, and their 
 consequent ability to consume an unlimited supply of 
 fish and pork — the staple food. The strength and 
 spirits increase in a like ratio, and at the " making- 
 up " time, at Christmas, when the season's earnings 
 are doled out, these men are, to all intents, superior 
 in body and mind to poor, droning Hodge, who has 
 remained ashore during these five active months of 
 the fisherman's life. 
 
 The pay of these fishermen is proportioned to the 
 takes of fish and the prices realised. Thus, when the 
 accounts are made up at the end of the season, the 
 nett profits are divided into so many shares, according 
 to pre-arrange men t. For skipper, nine hands, and a 
 boy, the sharing out would be something on this plan: 
 The sum would be divided into eighteen equal shares ; 
 three of these would be apportioned for the vessel, 
 three for the nets, two for the skipper, one-and-a-half 
 for the mate, one for each of the hands, and the odd 
 half for the boy. These are not the exact proportions, 
 but will serve to show the manner in which the profits 
 are allotted. It will thus be seen, that it is to the 
 interest of each member of the crew to contribute to the 
 success of the voyage by every means in his power. Of 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 245 
 
 course, luck has to a great extent to do with the success 
 or non-success of the fishing, as at times, toil as the 
 men may, they get but a poor return for their labour, 
 while on other occasions they meet with many good takes 
 of fish in a season. A good season is often sufficient 
 to give each man from ^£30 to £60 as his portion. 
 
 The great breweries (especially Allsopp's) and the 
 various railways employ large numbers of East Norfolk 
 men, who are found to be very civil, industrious, and 
 tractable. The latter trait is a great consideration 
 where large bodies of men are employed, and the 
 overseers, knowing this, prefer these men to those of 
 almost any other county, as they have much less 
 trouble with them. 
 
 The natives are exceedingly superstitious, even in 
 these days of enlightenment ; but doubtless much of this 
 is due to ignorance, which the Board Schools will 
 probably assist in dissipating. Here are a few of 
 these superstitions : — 
 
 (i.) If a crow croaks over a house, someone will 
 die there within twelve months. 
 
 (2.) Nobody ever thinks of buying or selling, or 
 commencing any new undertaking, on a Friday. 
 
 (3.) When going to market, to sell corn or oxen, 
 if you meet a cross-eyed man or woman you had 
 better return, as your dealing will not prosper. 
 
 (4.) Poppies brought into a house cause the occu- 
 pants headaches and fainting. 
 
 (5.) Primroses carried into a house bear ill-luck 
 with them. 
 
246 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 (6.) If a bough of yew be brought into a house at 
 Christmas, one of the inmates will die ere another 
 Noel comes round. 
 
 (7.) If a red bee flies in at the open window, a 
 male visitor will pay a visit; if a white one, a lady 
 will call. 
 
 (8.) St. Mark's night (April 5th) is considered to be 
 a favourable time for spells to be cast, and for sights 
 (uncanny) to be seen. If one has the courage to go 
 alone to the porch of the village church on St. Mark's 
 night, he will see pass before him, at midnight, the 
 shadowy forms of those who are to die before the next 
 Easter. Some also say, that those in the village who 
 are to have a serious illness during the same period 
 will be seen. 
 
 (9.) If an unmarried girl, or young woman (maw- 
 ther), goes into the garden at twelve o'clock on St. 
 Mark's night, and uses the following spell, her future 
 husband will appear, with a scythe in his hand. She 
 must sow some hemp-seed, and as she sows must keep 
 repeating these lines : — 
 
 Hemp-seed I sow — 
 
 Hemp-seed, come grow! 
 He that is my true love, 
 
 Come after me and mow. 
 
 Then the ghostly lover mows — or would do so if he 
 ever appeared. 
 
 (10.) Here is another charm: The maiden sits before 
 a mirror in her bedroom, in which must only be one 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 247 
 
 candle, shedding a dim ligtit. At twelve o'clock 
 she says : — 
 
 Come, lover — come, lad, 
 
 And make my heart glad ; 
 For my husband I'll have you. 
 
 For good or for bad. 
 
 Then the future spouse looks over the maiden's 
 shoulder into the glass. Several fatal jokes have 
 been the outcome of these ghostly incantations. 
 
 Goblins and fairies are, of course, firmly believed 
 in, and many legends are told about "White Ladies,'* 
 ''Shuck Dogs," and ''Shrieking Women." Some of 
 these are very quaint, and show by their style that 
 they are of ancient origin. 
 
 Witchcraft is still, to a great extent, believed in, 
 and the look of an " evil eye " still causes a spell to 
 be placed upon the unfortunate person displeasing 
 the owner of the said malevolent optic. Several cases 
 of this kind have come under the writer's immediate 
 notice, one of which he took the trouble to thoroughly 
 investigate. The person upon whom the spell was 
 supposed to be cast was a farm labourer, of about 
 fifty-five years of age. This man on a certain occa- 
 sion drove his team to North Walsham, and in going 
 into the town nearly ran over an old man, near the 
 bend of a road. The old man glared at him, shook 
 
 his stick, and muttered something, which K (the 
 
 teamster) could not catch. That was enough ; the 
 spell had been cast, and, sure enough, the next day 
 it worked. K , while at work in a field, took out 
 
248 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 his ancient watch to see the time ; it was eleven (the 
 hour when, on the previous day, he nearly ran over 
 the old man). He put the watch away, and imme- 
 diately after felt giddy and ill, and remembered no 
 more till he found himself in bed at home, whither he 
 had been carried by his comrades. He soon recovered ; 
 but on the following day, when the fatal hour of 
 eleven arrived, was again struck down, and taken 
 home, where he soon regained his usual health. He 
 dreaded going to work the third day, but went, and 
 watched nervously the approach of eleven. His 
 anxiety as the hour approached was very great, so 
 much so, that when the time actually came he was 
 powerless from apprehension, and soon after fainted 
 away. I mentioned the case to a medical friend of 
 mine, who saw the man, and pronounced it a case 
 of epilepsy ; he gave the man some physic, and a 
 phial of dark liquid (a "black draught''), which he 
 was to take at 10.55 ^^^ next morning, after making 
 the sign of the Cross over it. He took it, and never 
 since has he been troubled with the '' evil eye," 
 although he firmly believes in it, and will do so, I 
 have no doubt, in spite of all argument, to his 
 dying day. 
 
 We now return to consider the past and present 
 state of the Norfolk peasant. With a change of style 
 in farming, and in everything else, he also has 
 changed. Men and customs are entirely altered from 
 those obtaining in the days of our grandfathers : 
 then the stubble was left, after cutting with the 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 249 
 
 reaping-hook, i8in. and even 2ft. high. Now the 
 machine reaper crops it off close to the ground, and so 
 abridges the days of harvest from six or seven weeks 
 to just half that time. Our grandsires did all farm 
 work by hand, and required a large number of men ; 
 now everything is done by machine — threshing, 
 winnowing, turnip-hoeing and cutting, sowing, hay- 
 making, corn-cutting and binding, corn and straw- 
 *, stacking, breaking oilcake, and a score more things, 
 are all done by machine, to the exclusion of a great 
 deal of manual labour. 
 
 Still, the natives are far from being a discontented 
 people, be they fenmen, fishermen, or farm-men ; 
 and as with the advent of the Board Schools the 
 light of education has dawned upon them, all those 
 under the age of about thirty years are grounded in 
 at least the three '' R's.'' 
 
 Many of the words in use among the people are 
 very old ; indeed, some of them are pure Saxon. A 
 perusal of the following list may, perhaps, be of 
 interest to those who are curious in the matter of 
 English etymology : — 
 
 Glossary of Norfolk Words. 
 
 Beck. — A rivulet. 
 Bestow. — To stow away. 
 Bin. — A manger, or cow-crib. 
 Bish-A-Barnabee. — The ladybird. 
 
 'BOR. — A contraction of neighbour; as, "How are you, 
 'bor?'' 
 
250 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Broad. — A freshwater lake ; the broadening of a 
 
 river, in distinction from narrow waters or 
 
 rivers. 
 BUDDLE. — The corn marigold {Chrysanthemum sege- 
 
 tum). 
 Buds. — Yearling cattle. 
 Cadder. — A jackdaw. 
 Canker. — A caterpillar. 
 
 Canker-weed. — Common ragwort [Senecio Jacoboea). 
 Cast. — ^Yield of corn. 
 Causey. — A causeway. 
 
 Clote. — The coltsfoot plant (Tussilago farfara). 
 Cob. — A seagull. 
 
 COCKEY. — The grate over a sewer. 
 COCKS'-HEADS. — The ribwort grass {Plantago lanceo- 
 
 latd). 
 Colder. — The debris of straw after threshing. 
 CroOM. — Anything hooked ; as a turnip croom, a 
 
 stick handle. 
 Crowd (to). — To wheel in a barrow. 
 Dannocks. — Hedging gloves. 
 Deek. — A hedgebank at the foot of which is the 
 
 hoU or ditch. 
 Dickey. — A donkey. 
 
 Dindles. — Common sow thistle [Sonchus oleraceus). 
 Dingle. — To hang down. 
 DoDMAN. — A snail. 
 Dole. — To portion out, to divide. 
 Dole-Stone. — A landmark or boundary stone. 
 Doss (to). — To toss with the horns, or gore. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 251 
 
 Dow. — The ringdove. 
 
 DwYLE. — A dishcloth. 
 
 Dydle. — To bail out, to empty. 
 
 Fall Gate. — A gate across a public road. 
 
 Fey (to), or Feigh. — To cleanse out ; as a well 
 
 or tub. 
 FouRSES. — The four o'clock meal. 
 Gain. — Handy, convenient, docile. Ungain. — The 
 
 reverse. 
 Gladdon. — Common cat's-tail {Typha latifolia). 
 Goose Tansey. — The silver weed {Potentilla anse- 
 
 rind). 
 GOTCH. — A jug or pitcher. 
 Grissons. — The stairs or staircase. 
 Hain. — To raise — either the rent, or the stack, or 
 
 building. 
 Hake. — A pothook. 
 Heck. — A half door. 
 Helve. — The handle of any implement. 
 HiLDER. — The elder tree. 
 HOBBIDY. — A lad, a boy-man. 
 Hobby. — A hack or common horse. 
 HOLL. — A ditch at the side of a field. 
 HuLVER. — The holly tree. 
 JiFFLE. — To fidget. 
 JiMMERS. — Door hinges. 
 
 Journey. — Half-a-day's work at plough or carting. 
 Kedgey. — Lively, sprightly. 
 Keeping-room. — The parlour or sitting-room. 
 Killer. — A small tub. 
 
252 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Kindling. — Firewood. 
 
 Knacker. — A horse-collar maker. 
 
 Laid. — Just frozen. Slightly frozen water is said to 
 
 be 'Maid." 
 Largesse. — A gift, a reward. 
 
 Lashy. — Cold wet weather is said to be ''lashy." 
 LOKE. — A narrow lane. 
 Lope. — To take long strides in walking. 
 Mardle. — Gossip. 
 MaviSH. — ^The thrush. 
 Mawther. — An unmarried girl. 
 Muck. — Any kind of manure. 
 
 Muck-weed. — The goose-foot {Chenopodium album.) 
 Mumps. — Mummers. 
 Needle-weed. — Shepherd's needle {Scandix pecten- 
 
 Veneris) . 
 NOCKLE. — A maul or mallet. 
 NoGG. — Strong beer. 
 Noonings. — The mid-day meal, dinner. 
 Olland. — Unbroken meadow land, "old land." 
 Owl's Crown. — Wood cudweed {Gnaphalium sylvati- 
 
 curn). 
 Packway. — A bridle path. 
 Pad, or Ped. — A wicker hamper. 
 Palk. — Wreckage. 
 
 Par Yard. — Cattle yard ; straw yard. 
 Paxwax. — Gristle. 
 
 PiCKPURSE. — Common spurrey {Spergula arvensis). 
 PiGHTLE. — A small field; a croft. 
 PiSHMlRE. — The ant. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 253 
 
 Plancher. — The chamber floor. 
 
 Poke. — A sack or bag. 
 
 Pollen, or Hen Pollen. — The hen roost. 
 
 PuLK. — A puddle. 
 
 Push. — A boil. 
 
 Quicks. — Couch grass {Triticum repens). 
 
 Ranny. — The little field mouse. 
 
 Red-weed. — Round-headed poppy [Papaver Rhosas). 
 
 RiNGE. — A row of potatoes, corn, &c. 
 
 ROKE. — Mist; fog. 
 
 ROWEN. — Aftermath; second grass crop. 
 
 Scotches. — Notches. 
 
 Seal, or Seel. — Time, or season — as hayseel, or 
 
 haytime ; barkseel, or time of tree-barking. 
 
 ''What seal of day is it?" That is, ''What 
 
 is the time ? " 
 Shack. — To turn cattle out to graze after the corn 
 
 has been carted. To wander and feed at will ; 
 
 thus, a tramp is called a "shack." 
 Shanney. — Mad. 
 
 Shuck. — The shell of peas; or to shell anything. 
 Shug. — To shake or scatter. 
 Skep. — A beehive, a lidless basket. 
 Skink. — To serve out anything; as beer, &c. 
 Skriggle. — To squirm like an eel. 
 Slade. — A sledge. 
 Slake. — Idle; at leisure. 
 Sluss. — Dirty water, or mire. 
 Spirket. — A pothook. 
 Spoult. — Breaking off short ; brittle. Applied to wood. 
 
254 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. ' 
 
 Squinder. — To burn inwardly, as charcoal, &c. 
 
 Stark. — Stiff, or tight. 
 
 Stulp. — A post of any kind. 
 
 Stuggy. — Strongly built; well knit. 
 
 Suckling. — White clover (Trifolium repens). 
 
 Swidge. — A puddle. 
 
 Team, — Five horses : two for morning work, two for 
 
 afternoon work, and one taking a daily turn 
 
 of rest, or grazing. 
 Teamerman. — A waggoner. The caretaker of horses 
 
 on a farm. 
 Teathe. — Manure. 
 
 Thack. — To thatch ; thackster, a thatcher. 
 Thapes. — Gooseberries. 
 Vance-roof. — A garret. 
 Winter-weed. — Ivy-leaved speedwell [Veronica hederi- 
 
 folia). 
 Wisp. — A seton or row^el. 
 
 Wret-WEED. — Sun spurge {Euphorbia helioscopia). 
 Writ. — A wart. 
 
 In thirty-nine out of the forty English counties people 
 speak, but in the fortieth they sing : the singing 
 county is Suffolk. Norfolk people have not the 
 peculiar singing speech of the Suffolk natives ; their 
 dialect, however, is full of rising inflections, which 
 make it a very difficult one for persons to imitate 
 successfully. They pronounce the a dreadfully long 
 in all words — in fact, as we pronounce it in "fate," 
 but with the addition of an e before the long a. H is 
 pronounced more like eatch than the town aitch ; 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 255 
 
 like the o in move ; r has the sound of air ; v is usually 
 given the same sound as Sam Weller would have 
 given it, namely, we ; y has a broad sound, something 
 like v^oi. From their pecuHar manner of pronouncing 
 certain words, Norfolk men may always be detected. 
 If you shake hands with a Norfolk man, he will at 
 once ask: "How airyu?" or "How du yu du ?" The 
 in such words as two, to, do, you, is invariably 
 changed into ii. In certain words no difference of 
 pronunciation can be observed : thus, hare, hair, or 
 hear, are all hayr ; bear, beer, and bare, are alike 
 bayr. The final g is usually absent, and thus we 
 have runnen, cumen, jump'n, fight'n, for running, 
 coming, jumping, and fighting. In one particular 
 Norfolk natives certainly have the laugh at Londoners, 
 and that is, in the use of the ill-treated letter h. They 
 seldom misplace it, and, as an aspirate, it receives its 
 due force of sound. Another feather in the caps of 
 the Norfolkese, is that their vocabulary does not 
 contain the number of slang words usually met with 
 in counties containing a number of large towns. 
 They seldom pronounce the h after t. Thus, they 
 say, tree, trew, and trow, for three, through, and 
 throw. 
 
 Speaking of a vocabulary, it may be noted that 
 from 8oo to looo words constitute the whole of the 
 Norfolk natives' stock of English words ; in fact, in 
 ordinary conversation they have a way, when at a 
 loss for a word, of coining one instanter ; such words 
 are usually comprehended by their listeners, and thus 
 
, 256 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 get them over an awkward pause in their narrative. 
 They have curious ways of constructing some of their 
 sentences — ways that are not accidental, but habitual 
 with them. Thus, they would, instead of saying, ''You 
 go to the shop,'' put it in this form : " Do you go to 
 the shop '' ; and the reply would not be : " No ; you 
 go," but " No ; go you." The verbs rarely have the 
 s added to the plural ; thus, our native would say : 
 " That dog run fast," or, " If he come now he will be 
 in time." 
 
 It is a difficult thing to give an absolutely correct 
 idea of the dialect of a county in print, as the 
 modulation and inflection of the voice, which give 
 character to the speech, are entirely wanting. Here, 
 however, is a slight attempt to show those who are 
 unacquainted with the dialect what it is like. Two 
 old neighbours meet on a cold winter's morning, 
 and address each other thus : 
 
 A. "Well, Narber Ceiley, and how d'ye fare to 
 feel this sort o' wather." 
 
 B. " Sadla, 'bor, sadla; what wi' wather and worrits 
 I'm a'most dade." 
 
 A. "Whoi, wat's amiss wi'ye?" 
 
 B. "Evrathing, 'bor; I hain't much time to golder;"^ 
 but howsomdever, I'll tell yow. First, my mawther,t 
 Abegel, trod on har frock, and hulled J herself down- 
 stairs last nite, and dropped the candle, in coarse, 
 and set fire to harself, and in a jif she flew all of a 
 fire, and afore I could trow my old fustin coat outer 
 
 * Gossip. f A young girl. % Threw. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 257 
 
 har, all the hayr was burnt orf har hade, lavin' it 
 is bald as a laard bladder. Then, in the night, my 
 ould dickey^ got over th' deek,t and fall inter the 
 hollj in Cubitt^s pightle,§ and thair she lay till th' 
 mornin'." 
 
 A. '' Dar sea! they du sea misfort'ns naver come 
 single.'' 
 
 B. '' Ay, but thet ain't all. Thet boy Turn o' mine's 
 gorn and got married unbeknown to me, and kem a 
 marching his gal home yesterday at nune-time as 
 bold as brass. I could hardla believe my saven 
 sensus, but the gal out with har marriage lines, 
 and in course that pruved it. But tell yow me, 
 'bor, what make yow so livela?" 
 
 A. ''Well, y'see, th' truth is, my ould ooman's gorn 
 op ta Lunnon fer a month, so I'm a gay young 
 bacheltor agin, 'bor — de'y'see? Eh?" &c., &c. 
 
 The names of Norfolk rivers are, many of them, 
 Euskardian or Iberian in their derivation ; thus, we 
 have from these sources the Bure, Glaven, Exe, Ant, 
 Nene, Nar, Thurne, Waveney, Wensum, Yare, Thet 
 or Chet, Ouse, and others. 
 
 The names of most of the villages are of British 
 derivation, except those bordering on the East coast, 
 which are frequently Danish. In fact, the East 
 coast natives are descendants of the old Danish sea- 
 kings, who landed upon the coast, and there settled. 
 The type of their features is certainly Danish — straight 
 
 * Donkey. f Bank. J Ditch. § A small field. 
 
 S 
 
258 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 noses, open, frank countenances, blue or grey eyes, 
 fair skin, ruddy complexion, and straw-coloured hair. 
 Their language is also interspersed with semi-Danish 
 words, and the accent and pronunciation are, by reason 
 of their Danish extraction, unlike those of any other 
 English dialect. 
 
 Most of the Danish sea-kings and their followers 
 had particular cognomens, by which they were known 
 irrespective of their family names, such as '' Sea-wolf," 
 " Foam Borne," " The Dragon," &c. ; and this custom 
 has been handed down to the present generation, as 
 nearly every man has a sobriquet, or nickname. The 
 martial or sublime of the Danish names has, however, 
 descended to the ridiculous, as a sample of a few 
 nicknames will show. Thus, in one village you may 
 meet '' Cadderback " Ceiley, " Punks " Wiseman, 
 *' Tight-skin " Hewson, ''Tea" Helsdon, "Two- 
 skulled" Thomsen, "Bumble" Peggs, "Splayfoot" 
 Wilson, "Whale" Thatcher, "Pretty-mouth" Mason, 
 " Bluenose " Wayland, " Prickleback " Long, and so 
 on. Most of these names are given to their recipients 
 when boys, usually from some physical peculiarity, 
 and are retained by them to the grave. When these 
 men go to sea, or enter into the employment of any 
 firm (such as a brewery), these nicknames take the 
 place of their baptismal names, and by them, and 
 frequently by them alone, they are known. It is 
 necessary, therefore, if you wish to find a man, say 
 aboard a smack, to know his extra appellation, and 
 instead of asking for William So-and-so, to simply 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 259 
 
 inquire for '^ Leatherlungs," &c., as the case may be, 
 as the family name is probably unknown to the rest 
 of the crew. 
 
 The dress of the natives is not of any particular 
 peculiarity, except in one or two points. The long- 
 sleeved waistcoat is worn by most of them. It is 
 of somewhat peculiar make, being very long in the 
 body, so as to come well over the hips. The front 
 is of velveteen, with plenty of buttons, and the back 
 and sleeves (which reach quite to the wrist) are of 
 jean. The turnover of the cuffs is also of velveteen 
 when the wearer is at all a beau. The long smock, 
 with its elaborate breast work, so well known in 
 many parts of England, is almost absent here, but 
 its place is taken by the slop, which is in make 
 exactly like the French blouse, but is white, or 
 nearly so, in colour. It is a simple, square-cut gar- 
 ment, with a hole in the top for the head to come 
 through, and baggy sleeves, fastened at the wrist 
 with a button. This is a very sensible garment for 
 field work. Buskins are usually worn in wet weather, 
 and stout hobnail boots encase the feet. The head 
 has a billy-cock hat, of a flexible felt, which may be 
 worn in a number of ways, according to the fancy 
 of the owner. Sometimes the hat is worn a la brigand, 
 with one side of the brim cocked up, and the other 
 down ; sometimes with the back of the brim curled 
 up, and the front thrust out like a peak, a la Mephisto- 
 pheles ; and in many other ways. In wet weather 
 it is turned down all round, and looks like the roof- 
 
 S 2 
 
260 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 thatch on a round stack, but answers its purpose 
 admirably as a shelter from the rain. It is a hat for 
 all weathers. Contrast it with the fine-weather, glossy- 
 silk hat of the town man, the supposed mark of 
 respectability, and I am afraid, for utility and comfort, 
 the latter will only be second. 
 
 The amphibious portion of the semi-nautical popu- 
 lation affect a kind of half sailor rig. A Guernsey 
 (Jersey it is called in London) covers the upper 
 man, thick blue-black cloth trousers encase his lower 
 extremities, and half Wellington or deck boots cover 
 his feet. When at field work, he dons the slop and 
 the billycock, and his dress is complete. 
 
 It matters not how the men are dressed, or where 
 they are seen, the seafaring man, who works part of 
 his time on the farm, can be detected at a glance 
 from the purely agricultural labourer. Let half-a-dozen 
 of them walk a short distance, and the difference in 
 their gait and carriage is seen at once. The labourer, 
 being used to walking over ploughed and soft land, 
 takes a long, slow stride, with his shoulders forward, 
 and his arms swinging like pendulums by his side. 
 The fisherman -labourer takes shorter steps, rolls in 
 his gait, and turns his elbows out from his sides, and 
 usually turns the backs of his hands to the front. 
 He is usually the smarter man of the two, as seeing 
 about him brightens his ideas, gives him a better flow 
 of language, and makes him more intelligent, in every 
 way, to his fellow workman who vegetates in one spot 
 all his life. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 261 
 
 There is one peculiar article of dress that may be 
 noted, and that is the collar — the Sunday collar, if 
 you please, as during the week a coloured handker- 
 chief, wound round the neck like 
 a rope, takes its place. It is fastened 
 by a button in front, then passed 
 backwards round the neck, the strings 
 again brought to the front, and a curious collar. 
 there tied. Should a button fastening an ordinary 
 collar come off, a man (a town man) is helpless ; but 
 in this one, if a string gives way, a piece of twine 
 or part of a bootlace is spliced on, and all is well 
 again. 
 
 Funerals are conducted here in a very simple, but 
 nevertheless impressive, manner. After being used 
 to our larger metropolitan cemeteries, with their 
 numerous throngs of gaping spectators, many of whom 
 are simply drawn to the grave-side from idle curiosity, 
 and who stare at the mourners and their grief as at 
 a raree show, it is a very solemn and touching sight 
 to witness a country funeral. Let us stand aside by 
 yon epitaph and inscription-begirt column, and witness 
 the burial of a farm-bailiff's little daughter. Near the 
 fiint-built wall the tiny grave is dug — not the deep, 
 dark chasm we town-dwellers are used to gaze down 
 into with fear, lest the crumbling sides give way, 
 and precipitate one to the bottom with a broken limb, 
 but a neatly-dug resting-place, not more than 5ft. in 
 depth, for here but one body rests in each grave. 
 The sexton has finished his task of digging, and, 
 
262 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 wiping his hot face (for it is summer time), unrolls his 
 upturned sleeves, dons his coat again, and enters the 
 church, from the tower of which is presently heard 
 the dismal and solemn tolhng of the passing bell. A 
 few persons, both men and women, attired in their 
 darkest clothes (as they have not all black ones), now 
 begin to cluster near the grave, to aw^ait the coming 
 of the funeral cortege. Their conversation is in a 
 subdued key ; but presently there is a stir among 
 them, for in the distance, some half-mile off, a confused 
 assemblage of persons is seen slowly wending its 
 way along the footpath across the fields. Gradually 
 they draw nearer and nearer, and as they approach 
 take shape as an orderly procession, partly white 
 and partly black in colour. As they draw nearer 
 to the churchyard, a flutter of white linen is seen 
 in the porch, and the parson, with bare head, and 
 book in hand, advances to the gate to meet 
 the procession. First come the schoolfellows of the 
 dead child, each with an offering of wild and 
 garden flowers. Then the friends of the family, 
 immediately followed by four girls of twelve or 
 fourteen years of age, each sustaining the corner of 
 a large white cloth, in the centre of which lies the 
 coffin, nearly hidden by flowers. Following closely, 
 in pairs, are the father and mother, sisters and 
 brothers, and other relatives of the little one, whose 
 voice will never again be heard singing in the 
 green fields, or in the old thatched church, the 
 choir of which she constantly attended. A host of 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 263 
 
 villagers bring up the rear, the solemnity of the 
 occasion being apparent in their very gait and 
 whispered words, as they gather at the grave-side. 
 The voice of the parson breaks the stillness of the 
 air, for all is now silent save the song of the birds, 
 who carol sweetly, as if the uprising of the little soul 
 in its heavenward flight were a thing of joy to them. 
 The harvestmen, building their corn stack in the ad- 
 joining field, pause in their labour, and reverently 
 doff their hats, as they await, with down-bent heads, 
 the conclusion of the ceremony. Many a tear from 
 the eyes of the brave fishermen and farm-men standing 
 within the sacred acre bedews the soil, and, when 
 the dull thud of the "earth to earth" resounds on the 
 coflfin-lid, a shudder of awe seems to run through 
 the gathered villagers. At length the service is 
 finished, and the broken-hearted father consoles his 
 half-fainting wife and sobbing children, as they slowly 
 wend their way homeward, leaving the throng, after 
 a last look at the little white coffin, to disperse quietly 
 to their respective homes, and the sexton to finish 
 his task at his leisure. 
 
 Hearses being unknown in these villages, all adults 
 are carried to their last resting-place upon a cart — 
 that is, if the distance be more than about a third of 
 a mile. If less, a bier is requisitioned, and four or 
 six bearers carry the coffin. A simple band of black 
 round the hat and sleeve is the only mourning worn. 
 If the deceased be a little girl, a narrow slip of white 
 material is worn at the back of the men's hat-bands, 
 
264 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 as a symbol of the spotless innocence of the departed 
 little one. 
 
 For the grandees of the district, muffled peals are 
 frequently rung, which have a very curious and strik- 
 ing effect when heard for the first time. The muffling 
 is effected by tying pieces of sacking, or carpet, on 
 one side of the clapper of each bell. The bells are 
 then rung in sequence, and give forth their full sound ; 
 but on being struck by the other, or muffled, side of 
 the clapper, a very subdued sound is produced, giving 
 the effect of the note being produced at a great distance, 
 in comparison to the first or full notes. The effect 
 of the soft pedal of a pianoforte gives something of 
 the idea of the muffled peal, but does not subdue or 
 blur the tone nearly enough. 
 
 As this chapter is getting like Witherington in the 
 ballad of ''Chevy Chase/' that is, into the ''doleful 
 dumps," we will change the subject, and turn from the 
 dead to the living. As living suggests food, we will see 
 in what respect that which is consumed here differs 
 from that in other parts of the realm. First comes 
 the space-filling, all-satisfying Norfolk dumpling, which 
 is the simplest possible article of manufacture in the 
 pudding line. Flour, yeast, water, and a pinch of 
 salt, properly compounded, and popped in the pot 
 for neither more nor less than twenty minutes, suffice 
 to produce a pudding fit for a king — or a ploughman. 
 It is strange how few Londoners can make these 
 dumplings properly ; they are either too large or too 
 small, too heavy, too little cooked, or too little 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 265 
 
 ''something," which just spoils them. The Norfolk 
 women have the necessary knack of making them, 
 and know to a nicety, by a kind of instinct, the 
 exact size to make them ; for, as they roll them in 
 their hands into a globular form, they usually nip a 
 little piece off, or add a small piece, to keep them 
 to the orthodox dimensions. 
 
 Pork and apple pie is another favourite, and has 
 a crust neither thicker nor thinner than the sole of 
 the goodman's shoe, which is tantamount to saying 
 that there is something substantial to bite at. The 
 pork and apples are put into the dish, in alternate 
 layers, until the dish is full, when the cover of dough 
 is placed over, and the whole baked in a huge brick 
 oven. This dish sometimes overcomes weak or bilious 
 stomachs. Pumpkin and apple pie (alternate layers 
 of each) is another favourite, and is eaten with 
 plenty of pepper, which is sprinkled over each layer. 
 Pumpkin and raisin pie, with pepper seasoning, is 
 another dish of the same class. 
 
 Sausages (always pork) are liked baked in a batter, 
 in which they appear like ships in a troubled sea. 
 This is called '' toad-in-the-hole,'' and is very good, 
 although somewhat rich. Experto crede. 
 
 Frumerty, or furmety, is new wheat boiled in milk 
 until it bursts and assimilates with the milk. It is 
 then eaten with sugar, and, I should think, would form 
 one of the most nutritious things a person (or children) 
 could possibly consume. When left to cool, it sets 
 in a beautiful thick jelly. 
 
266 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The grand time for feasting is at pig-killing time, 
 and then numbers of queer dishes are concocted from 
 the interior and exterior of the porker. Chitterling 
 and apple pie is a great favourite. '' Scraps " is 
 another ; this is made by saving all the little bits of 
 fat, from all parts of the animal, and frying them 
 till most of the grease has run out. When of a delicate 
 brown, they are eaten with a little salt, and much 
 gusto, to the wonder of the town looker-on, who sits 
 by wondering how the eaters can keep them down. 
 
 In the way of drink, the natives are not at all 
 particular, their summer tipple being very thin, ^' small 
 beer," of which they consume large quantities, especially 
 in the harvest field. The labourers are usually allowed 
 a certain amount of porter during harvest time. This 
 is given at ii A.M., when they have their " lavenses,' 
 and at 4 p.m., when they have their '' fourses." 
 
 Mead is another drink, and is made by those of 
 the cottagers who keep bees. It is a very sweet, and, 
 when good, intoxicating drink. It is made in a very 
 simple manner, as will be seen from the following 
 recipe : In 10 gallons of water well mix the whites of 
 five or six eggs, and add 151b. of honey. Boil this 
 mixture for not more than an hour, and add (according 
 to taste) some spice — cinnamon, mace, ginger, cloves, 
 &c. Pour the liquor into a large wooden tub, and 
 when nearly cool add enough yeast to set it working. 
 When fermentation has ceased, put it into a barrel, 
 which tightly bung. After keeping in a cellar for 
 six months, it may be bottled for use. This quantity 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 267 
 
 will make about five dozen bottles. This quality is 
 seldom made by the villagers, and had not need be, 
 or the list of "drunk and disorderly '' charges would 
 be increased. About 51b. of honey to 10 gallons of 
 water is nearer the proportion to produce cottage 
 mead. Mead was the old Scandinavian drink. 
 
 Purl is a winter early morning drink. It is made 
 of ale, with a soupgon of rum or other spirits in it ; 
 a little spice is also added, and the whole then 
 placed in a warmer over the fire. It is kept con- 
 tinually stirred, with a bunch of dried wormwood, until 
 sufficiently warm and bitter. The natives are very 
 fond of this tonic. On one occasion, two of my 
 friends expressed their wish to try some. We accord- 
 ingly adjourned to a tavern near Norwich, and ordered 
 a glass each. It was made and brought in. "Good 
 health ! " was nodded by each to other, and a sip 
 taken. No more ! Each looked at the other with 
 a look, as much as to say '* I'm poisoned," on his 
 face. After enjoying the scene for some time, I found 
 breath enough to ask them what they thought of it. 
 One_, a Cambridge student, fresh from his studies, 
 said: "It is not quite the drink of the gods — nectar; 
 but if ever the devil takes a quiet glass, this is 
 his tipple ! ! " Number Two, a medical student, gave 
 it as his opinion that it was " the finest and most 
 irresistible emetic he had ever tasted." Two millers 
 just then came in ; the purl was handed to them, and 
 was out of sight and finished, with a smack of the 
 lips, before one could cry "Jack Robinson." So 
 
268 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 much for taste. It no doubt creates a good appetite 
 in those who can take it, for, as one of the millers 
 said, "A glass of purl before breakfast will make 
 a man eat bricks.'^ 
 
 In a tavern, of which I have forgotten the locality, 
 is the following puzzle : — 
 
 More 
 
 beer 
 
 score 
 
 clerk 
 
 For 
 
 my 
 
 my 
 
 his 
 
 Do 
 
 trust 
 
 pay 
 
 sent 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 must 
 
 has 
 
 Shall 
 
 if 
 
 I 
 
 brewer 
 
 What 
 
 and 
 
 and 
 
 my. 
 
 To decipher, it is necessary to commence with the 
 last word in the right-hand column, and read upward; 
 then, by reading the other columns in the same way, 
 the verse will be discovered. 
 
 Many old ditties of a bacchanalian character are 
 still extant, and there are also a great number of 
 sea songs, which are sung over and over again, and 
 handed down from father to son. Ballads of all 
 kinds are the favourite songs for Saturday night — 
 which is the regular singing night in all the inns. 
 These are interspersed with step dancing and yarns 
 (oh, so tough!). The dancing is usually performed 
 upon the bar table, which is placed in the centre of 
 the room, so that all may have a fair view. Often 
 two dancers will appear on the same table, and 
 dance " the longest and strongest " for a quart of 
 ale ; he who gives in first loses. They clatter away, 
 with their hobnailed pumps, till the perspiration 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 269 
 
 trickles down their faces, and every now and then 
 a mug of ale is handed to each of them for a 
 "cooler," which has to be drunk without a pause in 
 their exercise. If one slackens his step, loud ex- 
 clamations of dissent are immediately raised by the 
 partisans of his opponent. This "dance of asses" 
 goes on till one of them fails from sheer exhaustion, 
 and the other slips off the table on to a settle, amid 
 the shouts of his applauding friends. To while away 
 the monotony of this business, someone usually 
 obliges with a song, and, being in an inn, and inclined, 
 we will hear one of these — a drinking song : — 
 
 THE PYE ON THE PEAR-TREE. 
 
 The pye sits on the pear-tree top, 
 
 [Singer holds up a glass of ale. 
 The pear-tree top, the pear-tree top; 
 I hold you a crown she is coming down. 
 She is coming down, she IS coming down; 
 
 [Brings it slowly down. 
 I hold you a crown she is come down. 
 She is come down, she is come down ; 
 
 [Hands it to his neighbour. 
 So lift up your elbow, and hold up your chin, 
 And let your next nei'bor just joggle it in. 
 
 [He joggles the drinker, so that he may 
 not drink the proffered draught. 
 
 Sometimes the songs, instead of being of a baccha- 
 nalian order, are quite learnedly historic, if per- 
 haps a little boastful; but, perhaps, county pride 
 is, after all, the prerogative of an Englishman. Here 
 is one of these loyal lays : — 
 
270 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 THE MEN OF NORFOLK. 
 
 Come, sing a lay of Norfolk's sons, 
 
 And troll their fame in verse and song, 
 Recounting doughty deeds they've done, 
 
 On sea and land, with courage strong. 
 "We'll sing our strain both bold and clear. 
 
 Where'er we roam, on cliff or lea ; 
 So loud our voices let us raise, 
 
 That foes may hear across the sea. 
 
 Chorus. 
 
 For the lads who speed the plough. Hurrah! 
 
 And for those who toil on the sea ; 
 If war should come, to the tap of the drum 
 
 They would march and merry be. 
 To England's aid, in rank arrayed. 
 
 They are first in the battle's roar,* 
 For on land or sea, or where'er they be, 
 
 They are ever to the fore — 
 
 Brave boys! 
 
 Our lads are to the fore! 
 
 Long ages past fierce Romans came,f 
 With mighty hosts, upon our shore ; 
 
 Then Norfolk's men rose, in their might, 
 And marshland men prepared for war ; 
 
 A battle fought, and victory gained; 
 Full many a thousand foemen fell.J 
 
 * General Wyndham, a Norfolk man, led the troops to the assault 
 of the Redan, in the Crimean War; and the Norfolk regiments were 
 conspicuous for their bravery. 
 
 f Jiolius Csesar landed in Britain B.C. 55. 
 
 :|: Boadicea, widow of Prasutagus, King of the Iceni (or ancient 
 inhabitants of Norfolk), and whose stronghold was at KenninghaU, 
 roused to revenge by the outrages of the Romans upon herself and 
 daughters, marched upon Camalodunum (Colchester), and slaughtered 
 the garrison, and then upon Londinium (London), which she took and 
 reduced to ashes, besides slaughtering 70,000 Romans and their allies. 
 The remains of her encampment still exist at KenninghaU. 
 
CHARACTERISTICS AND DIALECT. 271 
 
 Boa'-dicea ! * may thy name 
 
 In English hearts for ever dwell. 
 
 Chorus: — For the lads who speed the plough, &c. 
 
 Long years rolled by : the Normans crossed, 
 
 And in our island made a stand; 
 The fenmen stout resistance made, 
 
 And fought the foe with bow and brand. 
 St. Benet's Abbey long maintained 
 
 Unequal strife with mail-clad men. 
 Till treachery the gate unbarred : 
 
 The Normans conquered only then.f 
 
 Chorus : — For the lads who speed the plough, &c. 
 
 To Norfolk's brave old warrior we 
 
 Must give remembrance ; for I trow 
 That Frenchmen, in Good Henry's reign; J 
 
 "Were certainly our direst foe. 
 Sir John Fastolfe,§ at Agincourt, 
 
 Against Alen^on ran full tilt, 
 And prisoner home the Frenchman brought. 
 
 Whose ransom Caister Castle built. || 
 
 Chorus : — For the lads who speed the plough, &c. 
 
 * Boadicea was defeated soon after, and her followers slain. She 
 saved herself only by flight, but, fearing to fall into the hands of the 
 enemy, poisoned herself A.D. 6i. 
 
 t See the story of the taking of St. Benet's Abbey, at page 126. 
 
 :|: King Henry V. 
 
 § Sir John Fastolfe, or Fostalfe, bom 1377, at Yarmouth; died 
 1459, and is buried in St. Nicholas' Church, Yarmouth. He must not 
 be confounded with the braggadocio Sir John FalstafF, of Shakespeare's 
 dramas. 
 
 II It is said that the Duke d'Alen9on was taken prisoner by Sir John 
 and brought to England, where, as a ransom, he built Caister Castle, 
 as a residence for his captor. I cannot see how this could be, as 
 Alen^on died by the hand of the English king on the field of battle. 
 
272 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 In good Queen Bess's lengthened reign, 
 
 The fleet called the Armada came, 
 Whose Spanish captains, all so bold, 
 
 Had threatened us with sword and flame. 
 But Britain's seamen, undismayed. 
 
 Arose their country to defend. 
 While Yarmouth's gallant ships and men,* 
 
 Helped back to Spain the dons to send. 
 
 Chortcs : — For the lads who speed the plough, &c. 
 
 To Norfolk's hero render song — 
 
 At Nelson's f name let shouts be raised! 
 For deeds of valour such as his 
 
 Should by his countrymen be praised. 
 Trafalgar's crowning glory is 
 
 By Englishmen held ever dear : 
 More so by Norfolk's sturdy sons, 
 
 Who lost their hero fighting there. 
 
 Chorus : — For the lads who speed the plough, &c. 
 
 N.B. — TTizs song, set to music, may he had in sheet form, price \s., 
 from the Author. 
 
 * Yarmouth is said to have sent many vessels, manned by the hardy 
 Norfolk fishermen, to help her Majesty against her Spanish foes. 
 
 f Nelson was bom at Burnham Thorpe, a hamlet in the north of 
 Norfolk. 
 
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 51 
 
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 IL 
 
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CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE FISH OF THE BROADS, AND HOW 
 TO CATCH THEM. 
 
 Now, away to the Broad, 
 
 With our tackle all stored : 
 Here's a day that is worth a day's wishing. 
 
 See that all things be right. 
 
 For 'twould be a spite 
 To want tools when a man goes a-fishing. 
 
 — Cotton {localised). 
 
 ^y^^S I do not lay claim to being either an Izaak 
 I ^cSk Walton, Cotton, or Pennell, I shall not 
 J^^^ attempt, in this chapter, to write learnedly, 
 like those noted anglers, upon the various methods 
 of taking fish, but shall simply give a glance at the 
 fish themselves, and offer a few notes and suggestions 
 on angling which will, I think, be sufficient for the 
 general tourist and casual piscator. 
 
 The species of fish which are to be found in the 
 Broads and rivers are but few, though what is lack- 
 ing in variety is certainly made up for in number. 
 Trout, gudgeon, dace, and other well-known river 
 fish, appear to be very scarce in these waters ; but 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. '279 
 
 the shoals of perch, roach, rudd, bream, and eels, are 
 simply astounding. 
 
 Netting and poaching the fish was carried on to 
 such an alarming extent a few years since, that the 
 Broads threatened in a few years to become de- 
 populated of their finny inhabitants. Tons and tons 
 of fish, which could not be sold, were simply used for 
 manure — and capital manure it was found to be ; but 
 what a waste of good food ! Some ten or twelve 
 years since, several gentlemen, by bringing the matter 
 before Parliament, were enabled to get a Bill passed 
 which has had the effect of nearly stopping this wanton 
 destruction. The Broads are now fast regaining their 
 normal number of fish, though these appear to run 
 small, a natural result of so many thousands of the 
 larger and older ones being destroyed. Every year, 
 however, adds to the size, weight, and number of fish, 
 and in a few^ years more, with careful watching, the 
 waters will be as well stocked as in days of yore. 
 
 As the roach, of all the freshwater fish, requires 
 the most delicate skill to capture, we will see, first, 
 how he is to be lured to his doom silently and quickly. 
 
 The Roach (Leuciscus rutilus) is, in form, too 
 well known to need description. When this fish 
 is in good condition, the head is one-fifth of the 
 entire length, and the depth, at the juncture of the 
 dorsal fin, two-fifths of the length of the body (that is, 
 minus head and tail). The spawning season is about 
 the latter end of May, or, in late seasons, the 
 beginning of June. The roach is a very prolific fish ; 
 
280 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 in the ovary of one weighing i^lb., no less than 
 125,000 eggs were counted. As a table fish, though 
 not so fine as many others inhabiting fresh water, 
 it is, when properly cooked, toothsome enough. It 
 is in finest flavour in October, its flesh being then 
 firmer than at any other period. The roach does 
 not attain to any great size, usually running from 
 yin. or Sin. to ift., though specimens have been taken 
 I5in. in length, and weighing 2|lb. 
 
 The best months for taking the roach are July, 
 August, September, and — for the enthusiast — October. 
 A fairly long but light rod will be required, with a 
 thin running line, to which should be attached 5yds. 
 or 6yds. of gut, and — for ordinary sized fish — a No. 10 
 or No. 1 1 hook ; for large fish, a hook one size larger 
 may be used. As the roach bites very delicately, a 
 very small, quill float will suffice, with just enough shot 
 above the hook to sink the line and leave the float 
 partly on its side. The water should neither be too 
 turbid nor too rough, or the shy nibbles of these fish 
 will not be readily detected. The best bait for these 
 waters appears to be paste, which may be made of 
 simple dough, amongst which has been finely and 
 intimately mixed a small proportion of cotton wool, 
 which will make it adhere more firmly to the hook. 
 Some prefer to colour the paste with a little ver- 
 milion ; but this gives it a ''wormy" appearance, and 
 roach are not such great lovers of worms as perch. 
 Still, it would not be a bad idea to take a small 
 quantity of each, and try which is the more killing. 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 281 
 
 What will lure one day will be found of little avail 
 on another occasion. Gentles, in their white state, are 
 often very efficacious ; they may be kept until they 
 assume a red hue (which is the chrysaHs state), when, 
 at certain times, they will be eagerly taken. The 
 objectio-n to the red gentlemen is that, their outer 
 case being hard and brittle, difficulty is experienced 
 in keeping them on the hook. 
 
 Now, if you wish to have a good day's sport, it 
 is imperative that the swim be ground-baited for 
 some distance round, either the night before, or very 
 early on the morning of, the day selected for angling. 
 A good ground-bait is made thus : Take a number 
 of lobworms, and chop them up into pieces one-quarter 
 or one-third of an inch in length ; now mix them 
 thoroughly in sand or light clay, so that plenty of 
 it adheres. Add a very small quantity of boiled rice 
 or barley, and make the whole into balls as large as 
 a boy's fist. Throw these balls into the water where 
 you intend to fish, twenty-four hours beforehand, if 
 practicable. Another ground-bait is made by mixing 
 well-soaked breadcrumbs and bran together, and 
 adding a handful of brewers' grains ; this, when well 
 worked together, may be rendered heavy by the 
 addition of a little clay or loam. Make into large 
 balls, and cast into the proposed swim. 
 
 Roach are very gregarious fish, and on the follow- 
 ing morning will be found to have congregated in 
 large numbers about the ground-bait. Having care- 
 fully plumbed the depth, allow the bait upon your 
 
282 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 hook just to clear the bottom by an inch or two. If 
 fishing from a boat, be careful not to make a noise 
 with your feet, or drop anything, as wood, being a 
 conductor of sound, conveys the slightest noise to the 
 fish. If you must talk, do so in a low tone. Be 
 careful to have a landing-net handy, as even a 
 medium-sized fish will be sure to break your deli- 
 cate tackle if not properly landed. If a large fish 
 (say, one of 2lb. weight), the top joint of the 
 rod would break under the strain if no net were 
 employed. It sometimes happens that, when a 
 roach is being landed, a pike will make a grab at 
 it, and, if he gets it in his mouth, then good-bye line 
 and float, farewell top joint and best part of rod, 
 and adieu sport at this particular spot for some 
 time to come ! 
 
 The yellow or dung fly is sometimes a useful bait, 
 and should be tried. Roach will sometimes rise at this, 
 if it be gently dangled along the surface of the water. 
 They will rise near it, closer and closer, till, with a 
 loud ''flop," they are hooked and landed. 
 
 The angler must himself supplement these few notes 
 by trials of the various baits which may suggest them- 
 selves, one of the chief pleasures of angling being 
 found in the various schemes and dodges resorted to. 
 
 The sense of smell appears to be highly developed in 
 the roach, and such things as saffron, balsam of tolu, 
 aniseed, assafoetida, and other strong-smelling drugs, 
 are at times used with success. 
 
 Roach will usually be found at the junction of a 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 
 
 283 
 
 Broad with a river, as they wait there for the food 
 to drift down to them. 
 
 The Bream [Abramts bramd), whose bellows-like 
 shape is well known to all anglers, runs much larger 
 than the roach ; its ordinary weight is from 2lb. to 31b., 
 though i2lb. and 141b. fish have at times been taken. 
 It is, however, a very uncommon thing in England to 
 take one exceeding 51b. Bream are very gregarious ; 
 so that, when once among them, a heavy bag may be 
 
 The Bream. 
 
 soon made. They spawn during May, and may be 
 angled for from June to October. Bream being a 
 strong and weighty fish, a rod stiffer than that used 
 for roach, and a strong silk line, must be used ; and 
 it will also be as well to have a larger hook (No. 9 or 
 No. 10). A large float is not necessary, as these fish 
 bite in a very timid manner ; but great attention 
 must be paid, and the fish struck promptly. Now 
 comes the tug of war, for they fight in a very game 
 
284 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 manner; if the place is tolerably clear plenty of line 
 may be given, and the fish played. The landing-net 
 will again be in requisition. 
 
 In the winter, bream, when caught, will stand an 
 astonishing amount of cold. On the Continent, they 
 are kept for hours, and transported long distances, by 
 simply wrapping them in snow, and inserting a piece 
 of bread steeped in brandy in their mouths. When 
 thus treated, they will recover after being out of the 
 water for hours. Bream love to get into deep holes, 
 and therefore silence and caution must be observed 
 when angling for them. When caught, do not be too 
 eager to clutch them, for, next to eels, they are the 
 slimiest of all fresh-water fish, and will daub one's 
 clothes over to an alarming extent unless great care 
 be taken. 
 
 Various baits may be tried — wasp grubs, greaves, dew 
 worms, red paste, &c. ; but a bait seldom refused is the 
 common and easily-procured earthworm. 
 
 The bite of the bream may easily be mistaken for the 
 little nibble or bob of the minnow ; so that, unless it be 
 responded to by an instantaneous strike, very few fish 
 will be landed. 
 
 Bream love the deep holes in the rivers or Broads — 
 the former for choice, as they like running water better 
 than still. 
 
 The strike is simply a quick movement from the wrist, 
 with just force enough to dart the barb of the hook into 
 the mouth of the fish, and not, as some imagine, with 
 such power as to jerk its head from its body. The 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 
 
 285 
 
 bait should be only a few inches from the bottom. 
 Ground-bait of barley-meal and chopped worms, or 
 mashed potatoes, with shreds of beef, and a few gentles, 
 may be used with success. Work these ingredients, or 
 any others that may suggest themselves to you, into 
 lumps, which drop into the holes or other haunts of the 
 fish, who will then congregate in large numbers. The 
 early morning and the evening will be found the best 
 times to take bream. The heaviest fish frequently bite 
 
 The Carp. 
 
 in the most timid manner, so do not forget the motto, 
 " Strike while the iron's hot" — or the bream bites. As 
 to its gastronomic qualities — well, tastes differ. The 
 French are fond of this fish, while an English writer 
 says " they are a combination of bones and nastiness." 
 The Carp [Cyprinus carpio) is a handsome fish, and 
 the very antithesis of the bream, from an epicurean point 
 of view. Its flesh is esteemed such a delicacy that 
 ponds are, in many places, made especially for keeping 
 them until fit for table. They are very long lived, often 
 exceeding the century. This has been proved many 
 
286 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 times, by attaching metal rings to their tails when 
 young, and then keeping them in ponds. By these 
 means, some have been proved to be 150 years old. 
 Carp grow to a very large size ; they have been 
 taken weighing from 151b. to i81b., and on the Con- 
 tinent even more. For some unknown reason, they 
 are not so numerous in the Broads as other fish, 
 which is very strange, seeing that they are ex- 
 cessively prolific. A carp ilb. in weight, being 
 opened, was found to contain 295,000 eggs ; one of 
 51b., 460,000; and a large one, of lolb., upwards 
 of 700,000 ! The ovary of this latter fish actually 
 weighed more than the whole of the remaining portion ! ! 
 Carp spawn in May, and should be angled for from 
 June to October, and even later. They are very 
 tenacious of life, and may be kept, in a net filled with 
 moss or grass, for a week or more, with an occasional 
 wetting. I cannot give the novice much hope of catch- 
 ing many of these beautiful fish, for they are exceedingly 
 wary, and shy of anything uncanny in the form of a 
 baited hook ; still, they are to be caught by the exercise 
 of patience, if the right kind of bait be used, and quiet- 
 ness be observed. 
 
 The rod should be strong and pliable, and the tackle 
 as fine as possible compatible with strength. The line 
 should be a running one, thin but strong, and long 
 enough for big rushes, which these fish often make ; 
 a No. 8 or No. 9 hook is the best to use. If you have 
 a bamboo rod, so much the better, this being both light 
 and supple. Keep the shots on your line as far from 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 287 
 
 the bait as possible, and use a small quill float. The 
 size of this last article depends upon the depth of 
 water, and consequent weight of shot employed. 
 
 Scores of different kinds of bait are recommended ; 
 among others, a bluebottle fly, pastes of various colours, 
 grains of boiled corn, a boiled green pea, &c. ; but, 
 after you have tried all, you will find a well-scoured red 
 worm to be the most seductive. Some anglers flavour 
 the paste baits with honey or treacle ; but these fancy 
 kinds rarely succeed. Evening is the best time to 
 angle for carp, quite into the twilight; and even after 
 dark (by the feel) good bags are made. An old 
 angler, when asked what was the best bait for carp, 
 replied, '' Patience ; " and without this it is useless 
 to try to catch them. 
 
 As we have seen, for bream you should strike on 
 the instant of detecting the bite; but with a carp 
 this would be a foolish and useless proceeding. When 
 you notice a bite, let the fish take the bait a little 
 distance, and then strike gently ; when hooked, let 
 him have as much line as he wants, with an occasional 
 quiet check ; presently, his vigorous efforts to escape 
 will tire him, when you may carefully land him, 
 without much fear of a broken line or rod. 
 
 For ground-bait, use shred beef, oatmeal and water, 
 with a little treacle or honey added. Another sort, though 
 not quite so pleasant to prepare, is made by chopping up 
 a number of worms and gentles, and mixing them 
 with some well-soaked breadcrumb ; then add a small 
 portion of clay or earth, and sink at the required spot. 
 
288 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 The following curious idea is prevalent concerning 
 frogs and carp, but I am not in a position to vouch 
 for its correctness. It is said '* that frogs will mount 
 a carp's back, to which it will cling with its hind 
 legs, while it thrusts its fore legs into the corners 
 of the fish's eyes, and thus rides it, like an Old Man 
 of the Sea, till it wastes, and wastes, and dies " ! ! 
 
 The Rudd, or Pink-eye {Leuciscus erythrophthal- 
 mus)^ may, in the season, be caught nearly as quickly 
 
 The Rudd. 
 
 as its Latin name can be pronounced. It may be 
 angled for in much the same manner as the roach. 
 Rudd are gregarious, and, when once you get among 
 them, in a deep hole with a gravelly bottom (as on 
 Hickling Broad), you may, with care, nearly empty 
 the spot before the fish become alarmed at their 
 diminishing numbers. 
 
 Great diversity of opinion exists respecting this fish. 
 Walton infers that it is a cross between the roach 
 and bream ; other writers class it as a pure -bred fish, 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 289 
 
 of a quite distinct species ; while others, again, main- 
 tain that it is a hybrid of the roach and carp. In 
 France, where it is called the roche-carpe, it attains 
 a greater size than in England, and is esteemed a 
 great delicacy. 
 
 In the Broads, rudd may be met with in shoals. 
 The average weight of these fish is from ^Ib. to fib. 
 Barley meal and brewers' grains, or a few gentles, 
 mixed with soaked bread, will draw them together. 
 The. grub of the " daddy long legs," called the " leather 
 jacket," used as a fly, should be tried, as also the 
 wasp grub, or '^soldier." These grubs should not be 
 allowed to get into a too forward state of development, 
 or they will become brittle, and difficult to keep on 
 the hook. Three or four pellets of brewers' grains 
 have been tried with great success, even when the 
 fish were a little off their feed. When they are on 
 their feed they will bite at almost anything, especially 
 when it is raining. 
 
 The Pike [Esox lucius), and young fish of the same 
 tribe, are known by various names, such as luce, jack, 
 pickerel, &c., and are veritable fresh-water dragons, 
 consuming all fish which come in their path, except 
 the perch, which is armed with a chevaux-de-frise 
 on its back, which would be awkward for the pike's 
 gullet ! Neither does he tackle the diminutive stickle- 
 back, as he, too, is well armed. As to size, I am 
 almost afraid to state to what dimensions these fellows 
 will grow, certainly to 3olb., and even more, though 
 in this district very few are taken larger than 2olb. 
 
 U 
 
290 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 At Whittlesea Mere, one was caught, in 1820, weighing 
 about 521b., and stories are in circulation of monsters, 
 in the deep mountain lochs of Scotland, Wales, and 
 Ireland, of 6olb. and yolb. weight. But who has 
 seen them ? What do you think of this for a pike ? 
 I think it more like a whale; but here it is: "In 1498, 
 a person caught at Kaiserlauten, near Mannheim, a 
 pike which was 19ft. long, and weighed 35olb. Its 
 skeleton was for a long time kept at Mannheim. 
 Round its neck was a brazen ring, capable of enlarge- 
 ment by springs. On this ring the Emperor Frederick 
 
 The Pike. 
 
 Barbarossa caused the date to be engraved A.D. 1235 
 — 267 years before its capture." 
 
 The pike certainly attains a patriarchal age and 
 gigantic size, but we cannot quite believe all we read 
 without the occasional aid of the salt-cellar. The 
 stories of its voracity are legion, fish, flesh, and fowl, 
 falling a prey to its insatiable appetite. Water-hens, 
 coots, ducks, and all kinds of fish (even his own 
 species), are swallowed whole by this ravenous water- 
 wolf. A list of strange meals eaten by the pike lies 
 by me as I write, from which I extract the following: A 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 291 
 
 swan's head and neck, a mule's lip, a girl's foot, a man's 
 hand, some young kittens, and a large piece of bacon. 
 
 Pike spawn for the first time when three years old. 
 About the end of March they come out of the deep 
 water in which they lie during the winter, enter the 
 shoal waters of the dykes, and commence to spawn, 
 which operation lasts about a couple of months. When 
 twelve months old, the pike is about gin. long ; at two 
 years, I2in. to I4in. ; and at three years attains a 
 length of about i8in. or igin. After this age it con- 
 tinues to grow, no doubt, to a great size, but 
 certainly not to 19ft:., as the German one is re- 
 ported to have done. 
 
 Watermen have a curious way of snaring the pike 
 during hot summer days. During July and August 
 these fish love to lie near the surface of the water, 
 basking in the sun. To snare them, our friend the 
 fisherman proceeds thus : He takes a stout ash stick, 
 or straight sapling, loft. or 12ft. in length, from the 
 thin end of w^hich is suspended a noose of copper wire ; 
 this wire is previously heated in burning hay, to make 
 it pliable. He then walks along the sides of a river 
 or dyke until, peeping cautiously over the margin, he 
 discovers a basking pike ; then, expeditiously and 
 cautiously, he drops the noose over the pike's head, 
 gives a jerk, and the deed is done. 
 
 This mode of capture is, however, never resorted to 
 by gentlemen who follow angling for pastime, and not 
 for a living. The legitimate modes are known as 
 trolling, spinning, and live-baiting. These methods 
 
 U 2 
 
292 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 I will endeavour to describe without entering into the 
 minutiae, which would occupy too much space. 
 
 A cloudy sky, a nice gentle breeze, and a day not 
 too warm, is the best time for pike fishing. A rod 
 12ft. in length is about the handiest, though some 
 prefer one a couple of feet longer ; a certain degree 
 of stiffness and strength is indispensable. The line 
 must be a long one — not less than 50yds. or 6oyds. of 
 waterproof trolling line, neatly wound on a winch at 
 the butt of the rod. The hook for trolling is the 
 ordinary double-headed one for pike, and upon the 
 shank is a little cylinder of lead, a couple of inches 
 long; the shank of the hook ends in an eye, through 
 which the gimp trace is fastened, the other end being 
 in turn secured to the line. One or more swivels are 
 usually attached to the trace, but may be dispensed 
 with. 
 
 A small roach makes a good bait (dead gorge bait), 
 and is placed upon the hook thus : Take your roach, 
 and, with a pair of scissors, cut off the tail close to 
 the flesh, and one of its side fins, which will cause it 
 to have an eccentric rotary motion in the w^ater. 
 Now get out your baiting-needle, and fix the loop of 
 your trace to the little hook at the end of the needle ; 
 then thrust the needle, gimp and all, down the throat 
 of the roach, and out at the tail ; draw the needle 
 quite through, and detach, at the same time drawing 
 the gimp through till only the end with the loop hangs 
 from the mouth of the bait. Attach the hook, and 
 draw the shank into the stomach, till only the barbs 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 293 
 
 of the hooks protrude from the mouth. It only remains 
 for the line to be attached to the gimp, and you are 
 ready for the first cast. 
 
 The most likely places for pike are in pools, by the 
 side of beds of weeds, rushes, or reeds, or even in 
 the rivers themselves ; but, in the latter case, always 
 fish within 2ft. or 3ft. of the bank. Cast your bait 
 lightly, and let it sink ; then draw it slowly, with a 
 swimming motion, from side to side, and in all con- 
 ceivable directions. When the ''knock," or ''run," 
 as the bite of the pike is called, occurs, there will be 
 no mistaking it; the fish will simply clutch the bait 
 in his jaws, and swim off with it to his haunt. Let 
 him go ; do not ask him to stay with you — in fact, 
 pay out your line slowly, so as not to check him. 
 Now comes the patience test : for eight or ten minutes, 
 not less nor more, you must simply wait, though you 
 may be bubbling over with suppressed excitement. At 
 the end of that time, you may reel up any loose line, 
 till you feel the fish, then give a sharp tug; for the 
 rest, you must play him according to the special cir- 
 cumstances of the case. Exercise patience, and in 
 his rushes give him an occasional turn, until by-and- 
 by, when your quarry begins to tire, you may quietly 
 wind him in, and thus secure your first " luce." In 
 order to save time, have three or four hooks ready 
 baited at hand; they can be kept in a tin box filled 
 with moist bran. 
 
 Spinning is performed with a live-bait, a roach or 
 fair-sized dace for choice ; let them rather incline to 
 
294 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 a small than to a large size. What is termed a 
 flight of hooks — a most frightful-looking implement 
 — is generally used. One hook is fastened through 
 the lip of the live-bait, and another through the 
 flesh, near the tail, leaving a set of three hooks, 
 secured in the form of a triangle, to depend from 
 the back of the fish quite freely. Some authori- 
 ties advocate the use of two sets of these triangles 
 of hooks, while others aver that less fish are missed 
 when but one set is employed. To use this flight, 
 when properly baited, sufficient line should be run off 
 the reel upon the bank to aflow of the flight being 
 cast to any given spot. Then, with a swaying motion 
 of the rod (which requires some practice), a cast may 
 be made. If, after a short period, no response is 
 received from Mr. Pike, reel up the line, draw the 
 bait out of the water, and repeat the cast. If you 
 get a " knock,^' as it is termed (a bite), from the 
 fish, strike very hard at once, and play him, giving 
 and taking in line according to his rushes, until he 
 turns on his side exhausted, when you may gently 
 draw him to the side of the bank or boat, and gaff 
 or net him in. See that your line is strong, your 
 hooks very sharp, and that your reel runs freely. 
 
 There are various kinds of artificial spinners which, 
 in turbid water, are very killing, viz. : The artificial 
 live -bait, the Norfolk spoon-bait (with red tassel), 
 and Hearder's plano-convex. Pike will also, at times, 
 rise at a large, coloured fly; but as very little fly- 
 fishing is indulged in in Norfolk, I cannot say if 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 295 
 
 this bait is generally successful, although I am in- 
 formed that it is. 
 
 Live-baiting, or Snap-fishing, is largely practised here, 
 as much simpler tackle is required. The apparatus con- 
 sists of a small hook, on gimp, from which depends an 
 ordinary triangle of hooks; above this, at a distance of 
 loin. or I2in., is a leaden plummet, of elongated 
 form, and a swivel. A small but lively roach is used 
 for bait ; this is secured to the small hook, which 
 is passed through the skin of the back, near the fin. 
 A float will be required, so that the bait may not go 
 deeper than mid-water, where it should be allowed 
 to swim about in all directions. When a bite occurs, 
 do not be in a hurry to strike. When you do strike, 
 do so boldly and vigorously. When once hooked, 
 play the pike as you would in spinning or trolling. 
 A frog is at all times a tempting bait ; but should you 
 be unable to procure any other bait than perch, if 
 you cut off the spinous back fins before using, you 
 will find that a hungry pike will not turn up his nose 
 at it. There are many other baits which may be 
 tried, such as a mouse, small bird, or eel cut into 
 lengths, each on particular days proving efficacious. 
 
 September, October, and February, are the best 
 months for pike-fishing, though November also is 
 accounted to be good. Some pike-fishers favour a 
 breezy, frosty morning; but September will be found 
 the finest month for the pleasure-seeker in these waters. 
 See that you do not place your fingers too near the 
 mouth of a pike, for the purpose of removing the hooks, 
 
296 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 until he is quite dead, as his teeth are set in rows 
 like those of an alligator, and are as sharp as needles. 
 
 Lastly, remember that patience and skill are the 
 two chief desiderata required (in trolling especially) 
 of the true follower of the immortal Izaak Walton. 
 
 The Tench (Tinea vulgaris) is a handsome, plump- 
 looking fish, with small scales' and a very shiny coat. 
 It is fond of weeds and muddy places, and, being shy, 
 is not often seen, except during hot weather, when 
 
 The Tench. 
 
 it loves to bask in the sun in some quiet nook. 
 Stagnant, or nearly still water, suits this fish better 
 than that of rivers. Tench intended for market are 
 kept in ponds, and fattened on meal ; being extremely 
 tenacious of life, they are frequently brought to 
 market alive in wet moss ; so that, if not sold, they 
 may be returned to the water, to await some other 
 epicure's pleasure. 
 
 Their spawning time is the month of June. Like 
 many other freshwater fish, they are very prolific, as 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 297 
 
 many as 297,000 eggs having been obtained from 
 a 41b. fish. If a few tench be left undisturbed for 
 two or three years, their progeny will stock quite 
 a large pond. Tench attain a large size, and weigh as 
 much as ylb. or 8lb. Not many years since, a mon- 
 ster, 33in. long, and weighing ii^lb., was captured. 
 During the cold weather, these fish bury themselves 
 in the mud. The best time to angle for them is from 
 May to September; and even as late as November, 
 if the weather be open, good bags may be made. 
 
 A triangle of small hooks is usually employed to 
 capture this fish, as he is a very delicate biter; in 
 fact, he rather sucks at the bait than bites at it. You 
 must give him time; and, even when he takes the 
 float quite under water, do not be in a hurry to 
 strike, but wait till it re-appears : then, if there are 
 indications of his attentions observable, strike. If 
 you hook him, he usually takes to the mud at the 
 bottom, though you must endeavour, by keeping a 
 strain on the line, to prevent his doing so. Check 
 all his dives and rushes, until he becomes exhausted ; 
 then draw him coolly to the side, and land him by 
 deftly inserting the landing-net under him. 
 
 A muggy, drizzly day is the best time to take this 
 fish ; you cannot be either too early or too late for 
 him, as he does not usually bite freely during the 
 middle portion of the day. 
 
 Some anglers make good bags by baiting with 
 large dew-worms ; and in France, during hot weather, 
 the small white garden slug is found useful. 
 
298 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 I think, however, that in this district the angler 
 cannot do better than use the common red garden 
 worm, varied occasionally with a piece of parboiled 
 potato. The bait should actually touch the ground, 
 whether in a river or pool. 
 
 Beef, cooked and chopped fine, mixed with bran 
 or wheatmeal, is a useful ground-bait. Some add a 
 little sugar or honey to this, and moisten it with a 
 very little milk — just enough to make it adhere. 
 Another ground-bait is composed of bran, worked up 
 with bullock's blood and a few chopped worms. 
 
 The Eel [Anguzllidise), whose serpentine form is 
 too well known to require any description here, is 
 found — well, where is he not found? He may be 
 taken in Broad, pool, river, or ditch ; in clear or 
 muddy water, and in any weather. In the way of 
 food, he has no dislikes, and will eat anything that 
 comes in his way. Nothing is too delicate or too 
 distasteful for him. He is found in most unlooked- 
 for places ; in fact, during the dewy nights of late 
 summer, he will go for long crawls in the wet grass 
 of the surrounding fields, and will visit neighbouring 
 ponds having no connection with the stream he fre- 
 quents. 
 
 There are three varieties of the eel, namely, the 
 Sharp-nosed, the Broad-nosed, and the Snig ; the 
 last is sometimes classed with the first-named. The 
 sharp-nosed eel attains the largest size ; in the 
 Medway, eels of this variety have been taken of enor- 
 mous size, some of them weighing from 2olb. to 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 299 
 
 251b. each, and being nearly 6ft. in length. The 
 greatest size to which they attain in this district is 
 about 3ft., and the greatest weight, lolb. to I2lb. The 
 broad-nosed eel very seldom exceeds 41b. in weight ; 
 and the snig, though esteemed the finest for the table, 
 is even smaller still. 
 
 The eel is a long-lived fish. Many instances are 
 on record of its attaining threescore years and ten, 
 and even much more. 
 
 During the winter, eels lie torpid in the mud, and 
 do not take food of any kind ; like the bear, they 
 live on their own fat, as they are found to be much 
 thinner in the spring than in the autumn. 
 
 In angling for them, a strong, stiff rod, a strong line, 
 and a rather large hook, will be required. It is found 
 expedient to have a swivel or two on the lower end 
 of the line, so as to prevent it from " kinking " with 
 the evolutions of the eel. 
 
 The hook should be upon gimp, as the eel's teeth 
 quickly cut through the thickest gut or silk line. 
 Garden worms are the best bait. If, when you draw 
 the fish to the surface, you let its tail just dangle upon 
 the bottom of the punt, or the earth, it will not wriggle 
 about so much. It is best to put your foot upon it as 
 quickly as possible. The head may then, by a longi- 
 tudinal cut, be divided, when the hook will drop out. 
 A cut across the back, severing the spinal cord, kills 
 an eel instantly. 
 
 Another way of taking eels is by spearing. This is 
 done with a kind of trident, notched at the edges, and 
 
300 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 placed upon a long pole. This implement is variously 
 called a dart, pick, glave, or spear. The method is 
 easily acquired. It simply consists of prodding the mud 
 with the tines of the spear, and occasionally bringing 
 it to the surface to see if an eel has been transfixed. 
 Sometimes two or three are impaled at once. The 
 novice must be careful not to overbalance himself, or 
 dig the spear so deep into the mud that he cannot 
 withdraw it before the boat is carried away by the 
 current. This sport, if kept up for three or four con- 
 secutive hours, will be found rather tiring. After dark 
 is the best time to select for spearing ; and August and 
 September are the best months. 
 
 Another method of taking eels, called '^bobbing," is 
 performed thus : Dig a large quantity of garden worms 
 — the more the better. Get a long, thin, packing needle, 
 and a hank of coarse worsted. Proceed to thread the 
 needle with worsted, and then thread the worsted with 
 worms lengthwise. When you have got a large bunch, 
 go to the river after dark, and having attached a strong 
 cord to the bunch, heave it overboard. (During the 
 day, you will, of course, have noted the most likely 
 spots.) Wait a few minutes, and then draw up your 
 ^^bob" quietly, when, if you have selected a favourable 
 spot, the eels will be found with their teeth entangled 
 in the worsted. Shake them off, put them in a bucket 
 of water, and continue taking fresh casts as long as the 
 eels bite. 
 
 Night-lines for eels are permissible, and may only 
 contain one baited hook. It is optional how many 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. . 301 
 
 of these lines you put out — that depends on the fisher- 
 man's patience ; they should be baited with worms or 
 slugs. Roach, dace, or minnows, if procurable, will 
 prove very enticing; they should be used in the same 
 manner as when trolling for pike. 
 
 The Perch {Perca fluviatilis) is a handsome and 
 game fish, and easily recognisable by the novice in 
 the gentle art. His greenish-olive back, golden sides, 
 with their tiger-like stripes, and spiny dorsal fin^ 
 render him very conspicuous. The perch casts its 
 
 The Perch. 
 
 spawn in April, during which month it may be seen' 
 floating in long strings on the water. The number 
 of ova contained in a single fish is marvellous. Many 
 years since, a Swiss naturalist, Picot, took the trouble 
 to count the eggs in a fish weighing about i6oz. or 
 i8oz., and found the number to be upwards of 
 990,000. Fancy this for a single family ! 
 
 A 41b. perch is reckoned a large one in the Broad 
 district, though heavier ones are occasionally taken. 
 A fish weighing a pound — a very nice size — will try" 
 
302 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 one's tackle severely ; and mark this, that if you are 
 unfortunate enough to lose a perch — that is, if it 
 should get back among its companions — a stampede 
 will follow, and then good-bye to your sport in that 
 particular spot, for all the fish will take their departure 
 in alarm. The largest authentic capture in England 
 I ever heard of, was that of a gib. fish, taken from 
 the Serpentine, Hyde Park, London, some years since; 
 but in the Church of Lulea, in Lapland, the head of 
 a perch of enormous size is preserved. It is nearly 
 I2in. long: and as the head of a perch is rather 
 less than two-sevenths of the entire length, this 
 particular fish must have been about 43in. or 44in. 
 in length, and would probably weigh from 281b. to 
 3olb. ! There would seem to be a mistake somewhere; 
 or possibly it may have been the head of a giant 
 perch {Lucia perca), brought from the Caspian Sea, 
 where they are often caught over a yard long. 
 
 The perch is a capital fish for the table after the 
 middle of July, when it assumes its bright colouring. 
 From May to July it is out of season, of a dull, leaden 
 colour, and with an unpleasant flavour. The angling 
 season commences in August, and the sport may be 
 prosecuted as long as the weather keeps open enough 
 to enable one to angle without fear of being frozen 
 to the spot. The most useful rod is one about 12ft. 
 or 14ft. in length, with a fairly strong top joint; the 
 tackle should also be strong. A silk line, with a 
 length of gut at the end, and a rather large hook 
 (No. 5 or 6), on gimp, will answer well. In perch- 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 303 
 
 fishing, two, or even more, hooks may be used ; in 
 fact, the most approved way seems to be by '' pater- 
 noster " fishing. The paternoster is a gut line, about 
 I yd. long, from which two, three, or four hooks depend, 
 at equal distances. A small leaden plummet should 
 be suspended at the end of the flight, so as to keep 
 all taut, and prevent the fouling of the hooks. 
 
 The method of using this apparatus is to cast it 
 into a likely pool, and let it sink until the bullet 
 touches the bottom ; then draw it up a few inches, 
 and move it gently from side to side, to you and from 
 you, and in every direction, until a bite is felt ; then 
 wait for a second or two, and, if an other, tug be felt, 
 strike, when with very little trouble the fish may be 
 landed. 
 
 The perch is at times rather capricious in his taste, 
 so that it will be found a good plan to try a different 
 bait on each hook, till his particular taste is discovered, 
 when it will be wise to bait all the hooks with his 
 particular choice till he is tired of it— then give him a 
 change. Perch may also be taken by trolling with a 
 very small roach, in the same manner as recommended 
 for pike, but with smaller tackle. 
 
 The bait used may be either worms, very small 
 roach, or minnows. Live shrimps, when procurable 
 are often used as a bait with great success. If live- 
 bait be used, the hook should either be run through 
 the lip or the skin of the back ; when found to be 
 dead, replace by a live one, as the more lively the 
 bait the more attractive will it be. 
 
304 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 When simply angling with a single hook, a cork 
 float will be necessary; but the smaller it is, the 
 better. The size of float must be regulated by the 
 depth of water to be fished. 
 
 Perch will take a number of baits, so you may try 
 a small frog, which should be hooked by the skin of 
 the thigh, and allowed to swim about in mid stream ; 
 both red and white gentles, garden slugs, &c., also 
 prove successful; but for these waters nothing is 
 equal to the red garden worm. These worms are 
 best found after a shower of rain, when they come 
 out of their holes. A method of procuring worms, 
 which I find easier than digging, is to throw a couple 
 of pails of water on the mould ; after waiting a short 
 time, take a spade, thrust the blade into the ground 
 as far as possible, and wriggle it from side to side, 
 flatways, for a space of a couple of minutes ; then, 
 upon looking on the ground, you will perceive the 
 worms appearing on the surface. They should then 
 be picked up, placed in a can filled with moss, and 
 sprinkled with new milk. Next day they will be 
 ready for use, but are better if kept two or three days, 
 changing the moss occasionally. Perch love a hard, 
 gravelly bottom, and are seldom found in a muddy 
 locality. In the Bure, especially near Acle Bridge, 
 several trout, of from 31b. to 41b. weight, have 
 been taken with a spoon-bait during the past twelve 
 months. Would it not be a good idea for some angler 
 who is used to fly-fishing to try his skill with a few 
 casts between Acle Bridge and Thurne Mouth? 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 305 
 
 General Remarks. — The Broads vary greatly in 
 depth. Hickling is from 3ft. to 5ft. nearly everywhere 
 except in the channel, which is marked out by posts. 
 Barton Broad is in many parts very shallow, and, I 
 believe, nowhere exceeds 8ft. or 9ft. In Wroxham you 
 have deep water, in some parts 12ft. and 14ft. Fritton 
 Decoy has still deeper water; there are spots in it 
 known to the brethren of the angle, i6ft. or i8ft. deep. 
 There is very little current in any of the Broads. The 
 rivers, near their mouths, are, during the run of the 
 tide, rather swift, and vary greatly in depth ; perhaps 
 9ft. to I oft. would be about the average. The angler 
 will, therefore, see that little can be done without the 
 use of a leaden plummet. 
 
 The following is a list of angling necessaries, which 
 may be added to by the expert : 
 
 A couple of rods, one long and light, the other 
 shorter and firmer; or a fairly long rod, with two or 
 three top joints, of various thicknesses. 
 
 Reels for running tackle. 
 
 Baiting needles of various sizes, and a packing needle. 
 
 Lines — gut, silk, and trolling. 
 
 Hooks, on gut and gimp, of various sizes. Swivels, &c. 
 
 Traces. Paternosters, eel-line. Spoon-baits, &c. 
 
 Floats — quill, cork, and luminous. 
 
 Disgorger, clearing ring, and drag (for lost lines). 
 
 Landing-net, jointed to fold. 
 
 Bait-tin and gentle-box. 
 
 Plummets, split shot, pliers, cobbler's wax, and the 
 other little sundries which complete an angler's outfit. 
 
 X 
 
306 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Although not strictly within the scope of this work, 
 I may, en passant^ mention sea-fishing. Plaice, and 
 flat fish of all kinds, are taken from the jetties at 
 Yarmouth ; and, by taking a boat, good sport may be 
 had chopsticking for mackerel, whiting, and haddock, 
 large quantities of these fish being caught here by this 
 popular method. Soles and Flounders are taken by 
 laying long lines about a quarter of a mile from the 
 shore ; the bait used is the common lugworm, dug 
 from the sand at low water, or mussels. From 
 October to March good hauls of Codling and Cod are 
 made by casting from the shore, or by laying long cod 
 lines, baited as for soles in the summer. Although 
 the beach at Yarmouth is shelving and sandy, very 
 little seining seems to be done, albeit it is essentially 
 a summer method, and at times very profitable. In 
 two nights, with a crew of four, I have brought in over 
 400 pairs of soles, the largest being 22in. long. I 
 must own, however, that it is hard work rather than 
 pleasure. 
 
 Mackerel in the season, may be caught from a boat, 
 with rod and line. Bait with a piece of scarlet cloth, 
 or a piece of fresh fish of any kind. They will some- 
 times take the spoon-bait, if allowed to trail after the 
 boat. 
 
 Whiting will take the lugworm or fresh fish as a 
 bait. Have a sinker a foot beneath the hook, and let 
 this plummet just touch the bottom. Slack tide is 
 the best time — that is, at the top of the flood, or 
 low ebb. 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 307 
 
 I tried a curious plan for catching Whelks off Happis- 
 burgh last summer. I procured an old iron tyre off a 
 cart-wheel, and a piece of herring-net. The net I 
 fastened round the tyre, so as to form a kind of bag- 
 net, and in the bottom of this I fastened a heap of 
 fish offal. To the edge of the tyre, at equal distances, 
 I next tied four strong cords, meeting at a point above 
 the centre ; to this I attached twenty fathoms of line 
 and a leather buoy. I now took my whole apparatus 
 out half-a-mile to sea, and hove it overboard. It was 
 left for four days, and then I took a boat and went 
 off, and after a time found the buoy, took it aboard, 
 and hauled on the line till the boat was right over it, 
 and then drew up my net. The contents were peculiar: 
 about a peck of whelks, two crabs, two soles, and 
 a copper oilcan ! 
 
 And now I will conclude this chapter by remarking 
 that, although I do not put myself forward as an 
 authority in angling matters, yet, if the instructions 
 I have given are duly carried out, not even the merest 
 tyro will come home empty-handed. It is almost 
 impossible to give instructions that will prove effectual 
 at all times, and under all circumstances, but I have 
 endeavoured to give a general idea of the methods 
 of angling for the various kinds of fish which are to 
 be found in the '* Land of the Broads." 
 
 X 2 
 
< 
 
 f Dainty Morsels required : Green 
 ( Pea, piece of Cherry, &c. 
 
 Greaves ; Lobworms. 
 
 Pastes ; Rice Grains. 
 
 ( Lobworm ; piece of Fish ; 
 
 \ Anything. 
 
 Ditto ; Rice Grains. 
 
 Ditto; Paste. 
 
 Lobworm; Fly; Minnow. 
 
 Roach and Dace (Live-bait). 
 
 Paste. 
 
 Pastes; Gentles; Lobworm. 
 
 Lobworm ; Gentles. 
 
 Ditto ; piece of Eel ; Nets. 
 
 Worms or Gentles. 
 
 ( Delicate Morsels, according to 
 
 \ fancy. 
 
 Fly; Spoon-bait. 
 
 DC* 
 
 i-i^ro^ O'-'i-i'-'i-i 1-1 OS 
 
 "to "lo [?:?^2 "5 o5 [?5 ° 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 0, 
 
 ■ R 
 an 
 
 o 
 
 5 
 
 -^ 
 2 
 w 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Dykes and Shallows 
 
 Broads and Shallows 
 
 Deep Holes in Broads 
 
 Weedy Rivers and Broads 
 Still Pools 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 1 S 
 
 1 i 
 
 Muddy Rivers 
 
 Deep, fast Rivers 
 
 S3 
 
 HO 
 
 n ^ ■ '' s ^ $ i 1 1^ ii i s 
 
 Oc/5 a o^c/3^^^<t^ 0^^^"=^ 
 oo||-2ooo0^2oooo 
 
 CO 
 
 O 
 
 ^ 
 
 C 
 
 '1 
 
 a. 
 P 
 
 1 
 ^ 
 
 Miller's Thumb 
 
 Minnow 
 
 Perch 
 
 .a 
 
 1 
 
 
 Pi 
 
 : ^ 
 
 o 
 
 C/) C/3 h 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 « N fO-^LOvO i^OO 0^0 '-' M rOTj-uo 
 
THE FISH OF THE BROADS. 
 
 309 
 
 TABLE FOR ASCERTAINING THE APPROXIMATE 
 WEIGHT OF A FISH BY ITS LENGTH. 
 
 By J. T. BURGESS. 
 
 Length in 
 Inches. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 Carp. 
 
 Roach. 
 
 RUDD. 
 
 PERCH. 
 
 Tench. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 lb. OZ. 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 lb. oz. 
 
 9 
 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 
 II 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 II 
 
 
 15 
 
 I 2 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 4 
 
 I I 
 
 I 
 
 I I 
 
 II 
 
 13 
 
 
 I 8 
 
 I 8 
 
 I 6 
 
 I 4 
 
 I 6 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 
 I 14 
 
 I 14 
 
 I 12 
 
 I 10 
 
 I 12 
 
 I 2 
 
 15 
 
 I 
 
 2 4 
 
 2 5 
 
 2 3 
 
 I 14 
 
 2 2 
 
 I 6 
 
 i6 
 
 I 4 
 
 2 II 
 
 2 14 
 
 2 12 
 
 2 5 
 
 2 10 
 
 I 10 
 
 17 
 
 I 8 
 
 3 4 
 
 3 7 
 
 3 6 
 
 2 13 
 
 3 2 
 
 2 
 
 i8 
 
 I 13 
 
 3 14 
 
 4 I 
 
 4 
 
 3 5 
 
 3 12 
 
 2 6 
 
 19 
 
 2 2 
 
 4 9 
 
 4 12 
 
 4 10 
 
 3 15 
 
 4 6 
 
 2 12 
 
 20 
 
 2 7 
 
 5 5i 
 
 5 9 
 
 5 7 
 
 4 9 
 
 5 2 
 
 3 4 
 
 25 
 
 4 14 
 
 10 7 
 
 .. 
 
 •• 
 
 8 15 
 
 10 
 
 6 5 
 
 30 
 
 8 6 
 
 • • 
 
 • • 
 
 • • 
 
 •• 
 
 •• 
 
 10 15 
 
 35 
 
 13 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The above weights are representative of fish in good condition 
 a fish after spawning would naturally weigh less. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 A TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM GREAT 
 YARMOUTH BRIDGE. 
 
 River Yare — MUes. 
 
 Cross Stake ^ . 35 
 
 Berney Arms 4i 
 
 Reedham Town 84 
 
 Hardley Cross 10 
 
 Cantley Red House 13 
 
 Buckenham Ferry 15^ 
 
 Rockland Dyke i64 
 
 Coldham Hall 18 
 
 Surlingham Ferry 20 
 
 Bramerton 22\ 
 
 Postwick Grove ....... 23 
 
 Whitlingham 24 
 
 Carrow Bridge, Norwich .... 26^ 
 
 River Waveney — 
 
 Burgh Dyke or Cage 4I 
 
 St. Olave's Bridge g\ 
 
 Mouth of New Cut 9! 
 
TABLE OF DISTANCES. 311 
 
 River Waveney — continued. Miles. 
 
 Somerleyton Bridge 12J 
 
 Mouth of Oulton Dyke 15 
 
 Entrance Oulton Broad . . . . . i6i 
 
 Mutford Bridge . i yi 
 
 Lowestoft Harbour 19 
 
 Carlton Share Mill ibj 
 
 Seven-Mile Corner 17I 
 
 Six-Mile Corner i8| 
 
 Norlingham Staithe 20 
 
 Aldeby Staithe 2oi 
 
 Beccles Mill 21 
 
 Sayer's Grove 22 
 
 Beccles Bridge ........ 23 
 
 Nine Poplars 2\\ 
 
 Dawson's Boat House 24! 
 
 Barsham's Boat House 25I 
 
 Eliingham 37 
 
 Bungay 40 
 
 Length of New Cut 2\ 
 
 River Bure — 
 
 One-Mile, or Lone House .... i 
 
 Two-Mile House if 
 
 Three-Mile House 2\ 
 
 Four-Mile House 4 
 
 Five-Mile House, or Runham Ferry . 5 
 
 Runham Ferry 54 
 
 Six-Mile House ....... bj 
 
 Seven-Mile House. ...... 7I 
 
312 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 River Bure — continued. Miles. 
 
 Stokesby Ferry qJ 
 
 Acle Bridge 12 
 
 Thurne Mouth 15 
 
 St. Benet's Abbey 16J 
 
 Mouth of Ant 17 
 
 Horning Ferry 2o\ 
 
 Entrance Wroxham Broad .... 25 
 
 Wroxham Bridge 26J 
 
 Coltishall Bridge 334 
 
 Aylsham Bridge 44 
 
 Yarmouth Bridge to 
 
 Potter Heigham Bridge . . . . lyi 
 
 Martham Broad 2oi 
 
 Hickling Staithe 23 
 
 Entrance Horsey Mere 2\\ 
 
 Mouth of Barton Broad . . . . . 21 
 
 Stalham Staithe 23^ 
 
 Wayford Bridge 24^ 
 
 Wroxham Bridge to 
 
 Belaugh 4 
 
 Coltishall Bridge 7 
 
 Aylsham Bridge 18 
 
 Thurne Mouth to 
 
 Potter Heigham Bridge 3i 
 
 Kendal Dyke 4I 
 
 Horsey Mere i\ 
 
TABLE OF DISTANCES. 
 
 313 
 
 Thurne Mouth to MUes. 
 
 HIckling Staithe . 84 
 
 Martham Broad 6i 
 
 From Ant Mouth to 
 
 Entrance Barton Broad . 
 Entrance Stalham Broad 
 Stalham Staithe . .' . 
 Wayford Bridge ... 
 Briggate Mill .... 
 North Walsham Flour Mill 
 Bradford (source of Ant) 
 
 4i 
 6 
 
 6i 
 
 8 
 II 
 
 14 
 
 i8i 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 TABLE OF TIDES. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 High Water is 43 later at Lowestoft than at Yarmouth 
 ,, 3.0 at Cantley ,, ,, [Bar. 
 
 ,, 3.45 at Coldham Hall ,, ,, 
 
 „ 4.0 at Oulton ,, ,, 
 
 „ 4.0 at Horning 
 
 Spring. Neap. 
 
 The rise at Yarmouth is 6ft. ... 44ft. 
 „ Lowestoft 64 ••• 5i 
 
 ,, Cantley 2\ ... \\ 
 
 ,, Oulton 2 ... li 
 
 ,, Horning i ... \ 
 
 The direction of the wind and the quantity of 
 drainage water cause the tides to fluctuate greatly. 
 
 After a heavy rainfall the rush of water in a river, 
 helped by a strong wind, will to a great extent 
 neutralise the rise of the tide for a great distance ; 
 so that, at places where the rise and fall of the tide 
 usually makes a difference of, say ift. in height, no 
 perceptible change occurs. 
 
CHAPTER XXL 
 CARRIERS FROM NORWICH. 
 
 ^l^lHIS list of Carriers from Norwich to places 
 V^^.^^i which, in most cases, are inaccessible by rail, 
 u j^"» will, no doubt, be of service to those wishing 
 to reach a given point. It will be noticed, that these 
 carriers only make the journey once or twice a week. 
 Traps, however, may be hired, by those who can afford 
 the expense, at the rate (usually) of is. per mile. The 
 only other means of reaching these places, if the 
 journey by water is considered too tedious, is to walk. 
 
 Acle, II miles. Hales (Carrier), 3.30 p.m., Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, Tombland. 
 Lambert, 4 p.m.. Wed. and Sat. ; Capon's Stables, 
 Rose Lane. Dove, 3.30 p.m., Wed. and Sat. ; 
 Lion, Castle Meadow. 
 
 Aylsham, 11 miles, Stapleton (Carrier), 4.30 daily; 
 starting from Duke's Palace Inn. Olley, 2 p.m., 
 Tues. and Fri. ; White Horse, Haymarket. Horner, 
 4.30 p.m.. Wed. and Sat. ; York Tavern, Castle 
 Hill. Fiddey, 10 a.m., Mon. and Thur. ; Duke's 
 Head, Duke Street. 
 
316 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Barton Turf, 13 miles, Lubbock (Carrier), 4 p.m., Wed, 
 and Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, 
 Tombland. 
 
 Beccles, 18 miles, Flegg (Carrier), 4 p.m.. Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from Star, Haymarket. 
 
 Blickling, 14 miles, Fiddey (Carrier), 10 a.m., Mon. and 
 Thurs. ; starting from Duke's Head, Duke Street. 
 
 Brundall, 5 miles, Hayes (Carrier), 4 p.m., Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from York Tavern, Castle Hill. 
 
 Burgh (Yarmouth), 15 miles. Dove (Carrier), 3.30 p.m.. 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Lion, Castle Meadow. 
 
 Buxton, 9 miles, Gostling (Carrier), 4 p.m., Mon., Wed. 
 and Sat. ; starting from Bell, Orford Hill. Brown, 
 4 p.m., Mon., Wed. and Sat. ; Elephant, Magda- 
 lene Street. 
 
 Cantley, 10 miles, England (Carrier), 3 p.m., Sat.; 
 starting from Bell, Orford Hill. 
 
 Coltishall, 7 miles, Thurston (Carrier), 4.30 p.m., Mon., 
 Wed., Fri. and Sat. ; starting from George Inn, 
 Haymarket. 
 
 Dilham, 12 miles, Barber (Carrier), 3 p.m.. Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from White Horse, Haymarket. 
 
 Fritton, 1 1 miles. Leech (Carrier), 4 p.m., Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from Trowel and Hammer, St. 
 Stephen's. 
 
 Gunton, 16 miles. Bloom (Carrier), 3.30 p.m.. Wed. and 
 Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, Tombland. 
 
 Happisburgh, 20 miles, Blackburne (Carrier), 4 p.m., 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from White Horse, Mag- 
 dalene Street. 
 
CARRIERS FROM NORWICH. 317 
 
 Hautbois, 8 miles, Eke (Carrier), 4 p.m.. Wed. and Sat. ; 
 
 starting from Queen Caroline, St. Martin's. 
 Hickling, 16 miles, Goose (Carrier), 3 p.m., Sat. ; start- 
 ing from White Lion, Palace Plain. Leatherdale, 
 
 4.45 p.m., Mon., Wed. and Sat. ; Royal Hotel. 
 Horning, 9 miles, Thurgate (Carrier), 4 p.m., Mon., 
 
 Wed. and Sat.; starting from Waggon and Horses, 
 
 Tombland. 
 Hoveton, 9 miles, Thurgate (Carrier), 4 p.m., Mon., 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, 
 
 Tombland. 
 Ingham, 15 miles, Blackburne (Carrier), 4 p.m., Mon. 
 
 and Wed. ; starting from White Horse, Magdalene 
 
 Street. 
 Irstead, 11 miles, Leatherdale (Carrier), 4.45 p.m., Mon.,, 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Royal Hotel. 
 Ludham, 13 miles, Thurgate (Carrier), 4 p.m., Mon.,. 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses,. 
 
 Tombland. 
 Martham, 17 miles. Hales (Carrier), 3.30 p.m., Wed. and 
 
 Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, Tomb- 
 land. Dove, 3.30 p.m.. Wed. and Sat. ; Lion^ 
 
 Castle Meadow. 
 Ormsby, 16 miles, Dove (Carrier), 3.30 p.m.. Wed. and 
 
 Sat. ; starting from Lion, Castle Meadow. 
 Oulton, 14 miles, Laxton (Carrier), 4.30 p.m., Mon.,. 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Duke's Head, Duke 
 
 Street. 
 Oxnead, 8 miles. Smith (Carrier), 4.30 p.m., Mon.>. 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Waggon and Horses, 
 
 Tombland. 
 
318 THE LAND OF THE BROADS. 
 
 Potter Heigham, i6 miles, Thurgate (Carrier), 4 p.m., 
 
 Mon., Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Waggon and 
 
 Horses, Tombland. Dove, 3.30 p.m., Wed. and 
 
 Sat. ; Lion, Castle Meadow. 
 Ranworth, 8 miles, Chapman (Carrier), 4 p.m., Wed. 
 
 and Sat. ; starting from White Lion, Palace Plain. 
 South Walsham, 10 miles. Chapman (Carrier), 4 p.m.. 
 
 Wed. and Sat. ; starting from White Lion, Palace 
 
 Plain. 
 Stalham, 14 miles, Leatherdale (Carrier), 4.45 p.m., 
 
 Mon., Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Royal Hotel. 
 
 Stimpson, 4 p.m., Sat. ; Waggon and Horses, 
 
 Tombland. 
 Surlingham, 6 miles, Aldis (Carrier), 4 p.m.. Wed. and 
 
 Sat. ; starting from King's Arms, Ber Street. 
 Worstead, 14 miles, Abigail, 12 noon. Wed. and Sat.; 
 
 starting from Duke's Palace Inn. Burrell, 5 p.m.. 
 
 Sat. ; White Horse, Magdalene Street. 
 Wroxham, 6 miles, Leatherdale (Carrier), 4.45 p.m., 
 
 Mon., Wed. and Sat. ; starting from Royal Hotel. 
 
 Burrell, 5 p.m.. Sat. ; White Horse, Magdalene 
 
 Street. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Acle Town and Bridge, 120 
 Acreage of Norfolk, 8 
 Agreement for hiring yacht, 16 
 Aldeby, 38 
 
 Angling referred to in Bible, 59 
 Ant, river, 150 
 Ashby, 193 
 Aylsham, 145 
 
 Bacton Abbey, 191 
 
 Barton Broad, 157 
 
 Bast wick, 195 
 
 Beccles, 38 
 
 Beeston Hall, 158 
 
 Belangh Broad, 140 
 
 Billockby, 117 
 
 Blickling Hall, 146 
 
 Bloaters, 230 
 
 Boom towers, Norwich, 64 
 
 Borrow, George, Author of 
 " Romany Eye," 33 
 
 Bowls, game of, 167 
 
 Bramerton, 60 
 
 Brasses in churches, 5 
 
 Breakdown, 187 
 
 Breydon Water, 26 
 
 Briggate, 181 
 
 Broad district in autumn, 225 
 District in spring, 210 
 District in summer, 218 
 District in winter, 231 
 
 Brundall, 60 
 
 Buckenham Ferry, 55 
 
 Bungay, 46 
 
 Bure, river, 49 
 
 Burgh Castle, 27 
 
 Burgh St. Peter, 37 
 Buxton, 144 
 Buzzer, 223 
 
 Caister Castle, 115 
 
 Calthorpe Broad, 198 
 
 Canoeing, hints on, 98 
 
 Cantley, 54 
 
 Carlton ColviUe, 34 
 
 Carriers from Norwich, 315 
 
 Carrow Bridge, 64 
 
 Characteristics of natives, 240 
 
 Chedgrave, 53 
 
 Chet or Ket, river, 53 
 
 Churches, 4, 6Q 
 
 Claxton, 55 
 
 Climate, 3 
 
 Clippesby, 118 
 
 Coldham, 58 
 
 Coltishall, 141 
 
 Commissariat Depots, 205 
 
 Cost of a trip, 15 
 
 Coursing, 238 
 
 Cromer, 187 
 
 Crow boys' war song, 223 
 
 Curious sign, 195 
 
 Dancing, natives, 268 
 Derivation of names, 257 
 Destroying a lighthouse, 169 
 Devil's Ditch, 178 
 Dialect, 254 
 Dilham Bridge, 179 
 
 Broad, 181 
 Dishes, local, 265 
 Distances from Yarmouth, 310 
 
320 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dress for tourists, 20 
 
 Of natives, 259 
 Drink, what, to take, 20 
 Dumplings, Norfolk, 264 
 Dunburgh Hill, 44 
 
 East winds, 238 
 Eccles steeple, 174 
 Eels, 57, 150, 198 
 
 Bobbing for, 300 
 Ellingham, 45 
 
 Epitaphs, 6, 122, 132, 165, 171, 
 172, 173, 180, 183, 190 
 
 Farm labourers, 241 
 
 Wages, 242 
 Fenman's life described, 210 
 
 Implements, 214 
 
 Eloquence, 215 
 Filby Broad, 114 
 Fisherman's life, 243 
 Fishing requisites, 305 
 Fishley, 122 
 Fish poachers, 30, 228 
 
 When in season, 308 
 Fleet Dyke, 127 
 Fogs in the Fens, 42 
 Fossil remains, 170 
 Fritton Church, 28 
 
 Decoy, 32 
 
 Galille porches, 43 
 
 Geldestone, 44 
 
 Giants, 202 
 
 Gillingham, 43 
 
 Glossary of Norfolk words, 249 
 
 Gunton Hall, 190 
 
 Gulls, breeding season of, 136 
 
 Haisbro' Sands, 165 
 Happisburgh, 163 
 Hardley Cross, 52 
 Harvest time, 213 
 Hautbois, Great, 142 
 
 Little, 144 
 Hearses, 263 
 Heckingham, 53 
 Heigham Sound, 195 
 Heron, the, 199 
 
 Herring fishing fleet, 229 
 Herringfleet Hills, 32 
 Hickling Broad, 196 
 
 Priory, 198 
 Honing, 179 
 Horning, 132 
 Horstead, 141 
 Hoveton Great Broad, 133 
 
 Little Broad, 135 
 
 Ice boats, hints on. 111 
 Impedimenta for a voyage, 21 
 Ingham Priory, 162 
 Inscriptions on bells, 129 
 Insurance of yachts, 17 
 Irstead, 155 
 
 Kingfishers, 143 
 
 Knapton, 190 
 
 Ket, or Chet, river, 53 
 
 Lake Lothing, 34 
 Lammas, 144 
 Langley Abbey, 54 
 Lighthouses, 168 
 Lilies, where found, 219 
 "Lily" steam launch, 25 
 Litester's Cross, 185 
 Loddon, 52 
 
 Lothbrock, story of, 50 
 Lowestoft, 35 
 Ludham, 194 
 
 Bridge, 150 
 Luminous floats, 221 
 
 Machine farming, 249 
 
 Man with two tongues, 183 
 
 Marram banks, 173 
 
 Martham Broad, 201 
 
 Mead— a drink, 266 
 
 " Men of Norfolk " — patriotic song, 
 
 270 
 Mile houses, 112 
 Monkey House, 61 
 Morning dip, 221 
 Muck Fleet, 113 
 Mud pattens, 27 
 Muffled peals, 264 
 Mundesley, 190 
 Mundham St. Peter, 53 
 Mushrooms, 228 
 
INDEX. 
 
 321 
 
 New Cut, 50 
 Nicknames, 258 
 Norman architectnre, 38, 43 
 Norwich, ancient houses in, 95 
 Bellringers, 75 
 Bishop's Palace, 73 
 Cathedral, 71 
 Cattle, 70 
 
 Market, 91 
 Churches : 
 
 St. Andrew's, 79 
 
 St. Clement's, 79 
 
 St. Edmund's, 80 
 
 St. Etheldred's, 80 
 
 St. George's, 80 
 
 St. Giles', 81 
 
 St. Gregory's, 81 
 
 St. John's, Maddermarket, 
 
 83 
 St. John's, Timberhill, 83 
 St. Jude's, 88 
 St. Lawrence's, 84 
 St. Martin's-at-Oak, 85 
 St. Martin's-at-Thorne, 85 
 St. Michael's, 86 
 St. Michael's-at-Plea, 87 
 St. Michael's-at-Thome, 
 
 87 
 St. Michael's-de-Coslaney, 
 
 86 
 St. Peter Mancroft, 76 
 St. Peter-per-Mounter- 
 
 gate, 78 
 St, Saviour's, 88 
 St. Simon's, 88 
 St. Stephen's, 88 
 St. Swithin's, 89 
 Circular windmills, 90 
 Corn Exchange, 92 
 Cringleford, 90 
 Curiously -named yards, 96 
 Eaton, 90 
 
 Foolish climbing feat, 72 
 Foundation of city, 70 
 Gateways, 74 
 Libraries, 92 
 Mammoth bones, 91 
 Market place, 92 
 Museum, 92 
 Rambles round, 89 
 
 Norwich, St. Andrew's Hall, 93 
 Nowhere, village of, 122 
 
 Oby, 193 
 
 Ormsby Broad, 116 
 Oulton Broad, 33 
 Oxnead, 144 
 
 Peat, or hovers, 237 
 Perch, 301 
 
 Large, 302 
 Pews, high-backed, 67 
 Pig-killing, 266 
 Pike, 216 
 
 Large, 48, 61, 290 
 
 Snaring, 291 
 
 To angle for, 289 
 Pleasure Hill, 196 
 Population, 80 
 Porson, 181 
 Postwick Grove, 60 
 Potter Heigham, 191 
 Prehistoric, 7 
 Purl— a drink, 267 
 Puzzle, 268 
 " Pye on Pear-tree " — song, 269 
 
 Quant, 125 
 
 Queen Anne Boleyn, 147 
 
 Eabbits, 4, 202 
 Eainfall, 3 
 
 Eanworth Broad, 129 
 Easpberries, 220 
 Eeed-cutting, 212, 235 
 Eeedham, 50 
 Else of tides, 174 
 Eiver " devils," 31 
 Eockland Broad, 56 
 « Eoger " blasts, 137 
 Eollesby Broad, 115 
 Eound towers, 5 
 Eunham Swim Ferry, 113 
 Euston Common, 179 
 
 St. Benet's Abbey, 126 
 St. Olave's Bridge, 27 
 Salhouse Broad, 134 
 Scratby, 117 
 
322 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sea encroachments, 186 
 
 Fishing, 306 
 Sexton for fifty years, 184 
 Sherringham, 191 
 Shipwreck described, 165 
 Shooting, 109 
 
 Free in parts, 227 
 
 From punt described, 233 
 Silly Suffolk, 48 
 Skating, 110, 231 
 Sleeping accommodation, 14 
 Somerleyton, 32 
 Source of "Waveney, 47 
 South Walsham Broad, 127 
 Spoon-bait, 294 
 Stained glass, 45, 156, 159 
 Stalham Broad, 160 
 Startings, 236 
 Stokesby, 118 
 Strumpshaw, 58 
 Summerton, 202 
 Superstitions, 245 
 Surlingham Broad, 59 
 Swallows, 226 
 
 Tench, angling for, 296 
 Thorpe, 63 
 Thurne Mouth, 125 
 
 Village, 193 
 Tide table, 314 
 Tonnage Bridge, 178 
 Trout, 119, 304 
 Tumuli, 8 
 Types of natives, 9 
 
 Victualling for a cruise, 18 
 
 Walcott, 171 
 
 Waterproofing boots, 156 
 Water telescope, 129 
 Waveney, river, 49 
 Wayford Bridge, 177 
 Weight of fish, 309 
 Wensum, river, 63 
 Whelks, 307 
 Wherry cargo, 123 
 
 Flags, 124 
 
 Inn, Oulton, 33 
 
 Pleasure, 12 
 Whiteslea, 195 
 Whitlingham, 62 
 Wild flowers, 218 
 Wildfowl, 213, 239 
 
 Decoy, 28 
 Witchcraft, 247 
 Witton, 184 
 Womack Broad, 138 
 Woodbastwick Broad, 134 
 Worstead, 181 
 
 Yare, river, 49 
 Yarmouth, 100 
 
 Bridges, 101 
 
 Dutch whipping-tops, 107 
 
 Jetty, 105 
 
 Market Place, 101 
 
 Nelson Column, 104 
 
 North Gate, 102 
 
 Piers, 104 
 
 Quay, 103 
 
 Sailors' Home, 105 
 
 St. Nicholas Church, 106 
 
 Star Hotel, 102 
 
 Toll House Jail, 106 
 
 Town Hall, 102 
 
 Trinity Wharf, 104 
 
 •<*- 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 TOURIST, FORTNIGHTLY, and FRIDAY or SATURDAY to 
 TUESDAY TICKETS, 
 
 (1st, 2nd and 3rd Class) are issued by all Trains from 
 
 Mmmwk if liif k Sf . Piiciis 
 
 TO 
 
 YARMOUTH, LOWESTOFT, 
 
 CROMER, AND HUNSTANTON, 
 
 And from LIVEBFOOL STREET to 
 
 CLACTOI(-ON-SEA, WALTOf(-ON-f(AZE, DOVERCOURT, 
 HARWICH, FELIXSTOWE, SODTHWOLD & jlLDEBUI[GH. 
 
 For full particulars, see bills. 
 
 FISmm and YACHTim on the BROADS. 
 
 COMMENCING ON JUNE 1st, 
 CHEi^P EXCXJRSION^ TICKETS B^OR 
 
 FISMIHG AWB YJ,CMT1IIG 
 
 Are issued DAILY by any Train as under, available for return by any Train on the day of issue only. 
 
 YARMOUTH to FARES THERE AND BACK. 
 
 Reedham \ First Class. Second Class. Third Class. 
 
 guShan,:: :::::::: !»•=«■ i»- =»*• i»- <«■ 
 
 Brundall ) 
 
 Acle Is. 6d. Is. Od. Os. lOd. 
 
 CROMER to 
 North Walsham Is. 3d. Os. 9d. Os. 8d. 
 
 w^xhtm ::::::::;:} i»- sa. is. 2a. is. oa. 
 
 LOWESTOFT to 
 
 Somerleyton Is. 6d. Os. lid. Os. 9d. 
 
 Haddiscoe ^ 
 
 Reedham I 
 
 Cantley V Is. 8d. Is. 2d. Is. Od. 
 
 Buckenham 
 
 Brundall } 
 
 NORWICH to 
 
 BrundaU Is. 3d. Os. 9d. Os. 8d. 
 
 Acle Is. 6d. Is. Od. Os. lOd. 
 
 Buckenham ") 
 
 Cantley > Is. 8d. Is. 2d. Is. Od. 
 
 Reedham ) 
 
 Wroxham Is. 6d. Os. lid. Os. 9d. 
 
 North'waasW ;::::;} ^^- ^- "• "■ /"• <«• 
 
 LoHdoH, May, 1887. WILLIAM BIRT, General Manager. 
 
 Y 2 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 CRUISING, ^HOOTING t FISHING 
 
 {COMBINED WITH HOME COMFORTS). 
 
 Every description of Craft used on these waters can 
 be obtained, and terms ascertained, by applying to 
 
 M 79, . LEADENHALL • STREET, • CITY, v>- 
 
 OR 
 
 PULTON BROAD, LOWESTOFT. 
 
 BOAT SAILING I>^ 
 
 FOR AMATEURS. 
 
 A thoroughly reli- 
 able Work for all 
 who love Boating. 
 It gives particulars 
 of the most suitable 
 Boats and small 
 Yachts for Ama- 
 teurs, and instruc- 
 tions for their proper 
 handling, together 
 
 with 
 Designs and Plans 
 of Small Yachts and 
 Sailing Boats, and 
 Numerous Dia- 
 W^^!^M^ grams. 
 
 Price 5s post free; or, if bound up with o Practical Work on 
 BOAT BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, price 7s. 6d, 
 
 London: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 NOTICE OF REMOVAL 
 
 .IIS MIIEI, 
 
 FOREIGN AND ENGLISH 
 
 PIANOFORTE, AMERICAN ORGAN, 
 HARMONIUM, 
 
 AND 
 
 MUSIC WAREHOUSE. 
 
 Late of 39, LONDON STREET, 
 
 NOW OF 
 
 i, Pill if iiif , liiifitt 
 
 «< Established - upwards • of • 60 • Years. >o 
 INSTRUMENTS 
 
 LET ON HIRE BY THE NIGHT, WEEK, MONTH, OR YEAR; OR ON THE 
 TWO OR THREE YEARS' HIRE-PURCHASE SYSTEM. 
 
 The Small Goods Department is complete. 
 
 CONCERT & DRAMATIC AGENCY OFFICE, 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 OF 
 
 Norwich r Norfolk Broads, 
 
 YARMOUTH, LOWESTOFT, CROMER, dc, 
 
 ALWAYS IN STOCK AT 
 
 HENRY F. PORTER'S, 
 
 stationery, Book, and Fancy Goods Depot, 
 68, PRmCE OF WALES' RR, NORWICH, 
 
 FIVE MINUTES' WALK FEOM STATION. 
 Every View of any note kept. A Large Variety to Select from, in 
 
 SCRAP, MOUNTED, or MEDALLION FORM, 
 
 In all Sizes. 
 
 GUIDE BOOKS, ROAD, RAIL & STREET MAPS 
 
 Of the District. 
 
 PANORAMIC VIEW BOOKS & LOCAL SOUVENIRS. 
 
 GLASS and CHINA GOODS WITH VIEWS, 
 
 AND A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF 
 
 SYCAMORE WOOD ARTICLES, 
 
 With Real Photographs of the Neighbourhood. 
 
 68, Prince of Wales' Road 
 
 Is equidistant from Eailway Station and Cathedral, on main thorough- 
 fare leading to the City. 
 
 E S T ^ B JL. I S H E r) 1869. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 TO ¥ISIT©1S 
 
 If you leave YARMOUTH without Visiting the 
 
 MARKET ROW 
 
 It would be like journeying to Egypt and for- 
 getting the Pyramids, for the Market Row Is 
 the great Curiosity of Yarmouth. Pause at 
 Nos. 3 and 26; and Inspect 
 
 BOWD'S CHOICE SELECTION 
 
 *u- 
 
 Vietvs of the Town on Satin-wood, Glass, Ivory, &c. 
 
 NOVELTIES DIRECT FROM PARIS. 
 
 12 Views for Id. 24 Extra for 6(i. and Is. 
 
 ^g^ The People's Pictorial (Original) 
 
 GUIDE TO GREAT YARMOUTH. 
 
 Price 2d. With Coloured Views of the Town Hall and Beach. 
 The only Guide worth Buying. 
 
 DON'T FORGET 
 
 Nos. 3 and 26, MARKET ROW, 
 
 And at AQUARIUM BAZAAB. Admission Free, 
 Subscription, 6d. per Week; Monthly, Is. 6d. 
 
 ALLOWING A CHANGE DAILY. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 IIIE'S UBIIIY 
 
 AND 
 
 CENTRAL READING ROOM 
 
 Recently re-arranged, and provided with all the Leading Daily 
 and Weekly Newspapers, Periodicals, &c. 
 
 Admission, ONE PENNY. 
 
 Subscribers to the Library, Free, Special Terms to 
 Library for Visitors, 
 
 .••'■♦.^'■%..*-«...— «...'■♦...'*«.. 
 
 mwmwm 
 Guide Books to Yarmouth 
 
 ARE THE BEST. 
 PRICES 1d., 2d., and 6d. 
 
 Sold by the principal Booksellers. Can be had at Smith's Bookstalls, 
 and at A. & W. HUKE'S, Market Row, Great Yarmouth. 
 
 ALWAYS IN STOCK 
 
 A very large Selection of 
 
 New Photograph Medallion Views 
 
 OF THE TOWN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, 
 From 6(i. each. Also a 
 
 LARGE STOCK OF UNMOUNTED VIEWS, 
 
 AT 
 
 A. & W. HUKE'S 
 
 12 and 14, MARKET ROW, 
 
 'MmmT "Wm. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 HUKE'8 LIBRARY 
 
 01; 
 
 llillli * Mi 
 
 12 it 14, Market Ijow, 
 
 mmM^T 'WMmm^^wTM: 
 
 Special Short Terms for Visitors. 
 
 A. & W. H. have the best selection of Photo- 
 graphs of Great Yarmouth, The Broads, &c., 
 medallion or unmounted, from 6d. each. 
 
 .•••^,»"«,,."»„«"»„."...»"...."»..»"«..»**«.^ 
 
 Publishers of the Cheapest and Best 
 YARMOUTH GUIDE BOOKS. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 JTI 
 
 Lowestoft Journal and 
 Visitors' List Offices. 
 
 Guaranteed Circulation, Thousands more per week tlian 
 any other Paper issued in the District. 
 
 PUBLISHER OF THE 
 
 Model Railway Time Table, Id. 
 Lowestoft Magazine, Id. 
 
 New Illustrated Guide Books to Lowes- 
 toft and District, Id., 6d. and 9d. 
 
 New^ Coloured Map of Low^estoft and 
 the District, 4d. 
 
 New Guides to Southwold, 2d. and 4d. 
 
 Freshwater and Beach Fishing : 
 
 Where, When, and How to Fish. With New Coloured Map, 4d» 
 
 Illustrated Guide Book and Directory 
 to Aldetaurgh. 
 
 Directories to Beccles, Halesworth, 
 Saxmundham, &c. 
 
 56 S 57, HIGH STREET, 
 
 AND 
 
 " DAGMAR HOUSE," "^^fy V^lyZ)' 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 M ELIZA • JORDAN, i^ 
 
 Bookseller, Stationer, Bookbinder, Newsagent, &g., 
 
 MARKET STREET, BEGGLES, 
 
 HAS ALWAYS A CAREFULLY-SELECTED STOCK OF THE NEWEST 
 
 Seeds Suitable fer presents, 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 PORTRAIT ALBUMS, SCRAP BOOKS, WRITING DESKS, BLOTTING CASES, 
 BOOK SLIDES, CARD CASES, WORK BOXES, PURSES, WATCH 
 STANDS, and OTHER FANCY GOODS, and 
 
 A Variety of the Newest, Cheapest, & Best Toys. 
 
 k««#«^iiMM< 
 
 Bibles. Church Services, Prayer Bool<s, and the Hymn Books 
 
 for Beccles Church and Chapels, and for the Churches 
 
 of the surrounding Parishes, always in Stock. 
 
 DAY BOOKS, CASH BOOKS, LEDGERS, MEMORANDUM BOOKS, NOTE 
 PAPER. ENVELOPES, AND ALL KINDS OF STATIONERY. 
 
 ORDERS FOR PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL PRINTING, DIE 
 STAMPING, &c., PROMPTLY EXECUTED. 
 
 London and Local Daily and WeeUy Newspapers, Periodicals, Maga- 
 zines, ^c, punctually delivered to all parts of the Town FREE 
 OF CHARGE for delivery. 
 
 WOOLS and SILKS in all COLOURS for EMBROIDERY, 
 CANVAS, and CREWEL WORK, &c. 
 
 Patterns for Tracing and Braiding. Crochet and Knitting Cottons. 
 
 AGENT for P. & P. CAMPBELL, THE PERTH DYE WORKS. 
 
 DEPOT for the BRITISH & FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY. 
 
 Anjrthing not in Stock procured as quickly as possible. 
 
 Parcels from London Daily. 
 
 Advertisements Inserted in all London and Local Newspapers. 
 
 Agent for: "Ipswich Journal," '^ Daily Press," "Norfolk News," "People's 
 Weekly Journal," "Lowestoft Press," &c., &c. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 G. CLEMENTS, 
 
 «< PRINTER, >o 
 
 Bookbinder, Bookseller, 
 
 Statiome, &g., 
 
 MllIET' 
 
 v\Tr\ 
 
 N ORTH W ALSHAM. 
 
 AND 
 
 AYLSHAM. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 A CLEARANCE SALE. 
 
 
 I MALINfG, 
 
 MJRKET HILL, DISS, 
 
 BEGS TO ANNOUNCE 
 
 That at MIDSUMMER he intends Removing to LARGER 
 PREMISES In 
 
 CROWN STREET. 
 
 A GENERAL SALE is now going on at MARKET 
 HILL, and wili be continued for a time at 
 CROWN STREET. 
 
 THE STOCK 
 
 CONSISTS OF 
 
 Pianos, Harmoniums, American Organs, 
 
 SHEET AND BOOK MUSIC, 
 
 GENERAL STATIONERY, BOOKS, 
 
 Fancy and Useful Articles, Sewing Machines, 
 
 AND MANY OTHER THINGS. 
 
 ALL OFFERED AT CLEARANCE PRICES. 
 
 h^^^^^^^^h^^^^k^h^h^h^*'^ 
 
 Per Particulars, see Circulars. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 W. H. BROWN, 
 
 Booftsellec, 
 PRINTER, & STATIONER, 
 
 MARKET PLACE, EAST DEREHAM. 
 
 fcwspiPiRS & Periodicals 
 
 AT EARLIEST DATES. 
 
 DAILY . PARCELS • FROM • LONDON. 
 
 Commercial Stationery. 
 
 -A DIE f SIliKING ^ AUD f Ef pNG, h 
 
 Bookbinbing. ^usic 
 
 ESTIMATES FOR PRINTING AT LOWEST PRICES. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 F. W. COUNT, 
 
 Bookseller, ^tatioiier, and Printer, 
 
 DIE STAMPER, ENGRAVER, 
 NEWSAGENT, &c., 
 
 Market Place, East Dereham. 
 
 DEPOT OF THE CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE SOCIETY. 
 
 AI.ABQE STOCK OF BOOKS ALWAYS ON HAND. 
 Any Book not in Stock procured on the shortest notice. 
 
 Newspapers received by early morning 
 trains, and punctually supplied. 
 
 Hymn Books for the various Churches 
 and Chapels kept in Stock. 
 
 o<1 BOOKBINDING ><> 
 
 IN EVERY STYLE, 
 
 WITH THE GREATEST POSSIBLE DESPATCH. 
 
 ACCOUNT BOOKS RULED & BOUND 
 
 TO ORDER. 
 ESTIMATES GIVEN. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 The Pictorial Guide 
 
 TO 
 
 
 LTlil 
 
 LING'S 
 
 With 3 Views, 1s. ; 10 Views, Is. 6d 
 
 The Pictorial Guide 
 
 TO 
 
 \\^f\ 
 
 ISIl 
 
 H 
 
 With 5 Illustrations, 1s. 
 
 — THE — 
 
 ISTORY OF PASTLE DISING, 
 u iv. 
 
 Imperial 8vo, Illustrated. 
 
 PUBLISHED AT 12s. IN NUMBERS. 
 
 The few remaining Copies are being sold in Sheets, 6s. 6d. ; 
 Cloth, 9s. ; or bound to order in any other style. 
 
 King's Lynn : W. H. TAYLOR, 
 
 108, HIGH STREET. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 THE ^ LYNN ^ NEWS 
 
 AND — 
 
 A HIGH-CLASS WEEKLY NEWSPAPER. 
 
 '»„«»«»..»-N.-»-'».<»-V.,»"«..»"S.,»- 
 
 Published every Friday Afternoon, at 88, High Street, Lynn, 
 
 and Circulated throughout West Norfolk and the adjacent parts 
 
 of Cambridgeshire and South Lincolnshire. 
 
 ——-•».,••»«..♦•*»..•-•»..••♦,..••«»..••♦«.-—— 
 
 THE IlYNN Hews has been established over 25 Years, and has 
 secured an extensive circulation. It is the only Norfolk Paper 
 which is widely read in the Isle of Ely, where its agencies are numerous, 
 and its business connection considerable. 
 
 The charges for Advertisements are reasonable, and the publicity 
 secured for them highly advantageous. 
 
 Til LIII lEWS 
 
 IS AN OFFICIAL MEDIUM FOE 
 
 County and Municipal Advertisements, and the Announcements 
 
 of the Great Eastern, Great Northern, Eastern and Midland, and 
 
 other Railway Companies, 
 
 And has the Patronage of the Largest Firms op 
 
 Auctioneers, Solicitors, and the Commercial Classes. 
 
 ^ A + BRANCH + OFFICE + jiT + WISBECH, ^ 
 
 For which Town, and also for Ely, Special Editions are published. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 MATSELL^^TARGETT, 
 
 10, HIGH STREET, KING'S LYNN, 
 
 FOR 
 
 CHEAP AND GOOD STATIONERY OF EVERY 
 DESCRIPTION. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHIC AND WRITING ALBUMS, INKSTANDS, 
 << WRITING AND BLOTTING CASES. >« 
 
 CABINET AND G.D.V. PHOTO FRAMES, BRACKETS, 
 AND LETTER RACKS. 
 
 Oxford Teachers' and other Bibles, 
 
 PRAYER BOOKS AND CHURCH SERVICES. HYMN 
 BOOKS FOR CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 .»«—»«—' 
 
 BOOKS AND CARDS SUITABLE 
 FOR REWARDS. 
 
 SCRAPS AND SCRAP BOOKS. 
 
 Boxes of Paints, Mathematical Instruments, 
 
 Solid Leather Purses, Pocket Books, Cigar Cases, Rug 
 Straps and Luggage Labels, Pocket Pencils, Knives, 
 and a large and well-assorted Stock of Useful and 
 
 Fancy Articles. 
 
 — ———=-»»»■■•■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■»»■■"—•——— — 
 
 The Largest Stock of Books in Lynn at 2d. 
 IN THE Shilling Discount for Cash. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 Nearly ready, Price Is, 
 
 ^NGLING IN SALT WATER. A 
 
 ^ Book for all Visitors to the Seaside, showing how to 
 catch Sea Fish from Piers, Jetties, Rocks, and Boats, so as 
 to obtain true Sport. By the use of proper Tackle and 
 Baits, Angling in Salt Water may be made to yield as 
 much sport as Angling in Fresh Water, which, it must be 
 admitted, is a very decided advance upon the usual methods. 
 
 Angling in Salt Water is written by a thoroughly prac- 
 tical Angler, and is well Illustrated with Engravings of 
 Tackle, Methods of Fishing, &c. 
 
 London , 
 
 L, UPCOTT GILL, 170, Strand, 
 
 And all Booksellers and Tackle Makers. 
 
 •Z^^HERE SHALL WE GO? This is always a most 
 
 IT! perplexing question, and the answer hard to obtain, for It is little use asking 
 ^'^^ a friend or acquaintance, as the chances are that his tastes are more or 
 less different from those of his questioner, and if his recommendation were 
 acted on. in nine cases out of ten it would bring nothing but disappointment, and 
 that, unfortunately, too late to remedy the evil ; whilst it is even more useless to ask 
 a stranger. 
 
 The only plan that is likely to be satisfactory is to read carefully written accounts 
 of places that are recommended by friends, or are expected to be suitable, and to 
 compare the advantages and disadvantages ; to look out for new places, and see what 
 they can otfer, and iHen decide. The difficulty has been obtaining the v^irious 
 accounts, but this is cwnpletely met by— 
 
 "Seaside Watering-places 
 
 (Fifth Edition^ which gives just the information that is required about 179 places on 
 the coasts of England and Wales, and no one could fail to find in its pages particulars 
 of some place which would exactly suit his tastes or pocket. The book contains 316 
 pages, sketch maps, and several illustrations, and is bound in limp cloth covers, price 
 •2<5. 6d. po5t fre 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 now THAT THE HOLIDAYS are approaching, we 
 shall be doing a service to those who go in for walking tours or cycling, by 
 drawing attention to a publication that they would do well to obtain, for the 
 reason tliat it is decidedly the best road guide that has yet been published, and by its 
 aid anyone wanting to know where to go to insure a pleasant trip wiu have no 
 difficulty in choo -in^ a route. 
 
 The TOURIST'S Route Map of England and Wales" 
 
 shows clearlv all the main and most of the cross roads, and the distances between the 
 chief towns marked in small figures, as well as the mileage from London. In addi- 
 tion to this, routes of thirty of the most interesting tours are specially indicated and 
 marked in red. 
 
 The map is mounted on linen, so as not to tear, and is inclosed in strong cloth 
 case. Price Is. 2d., post free. 
 
 BICYCLES and TRICYCLES of the YEAR 1887. 
 
 ^rj CHRONICLE of the New Inventions and Improvements introduced 
 r~i^ each Season, and a Permanent Record of the Progress in the Manu- 
 J facture of Bicycles and Tricycles ; designed also to assist intending 
 Purchasers in the choice of a Machine. 
 
 Price 
 Is. 
 
 Price 
 
 18. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. Written from Personal Examination by Harry Hewitt 
 Griffin (London Athletic Club, N.C.U., C.T.C., &c.). Tenth Year of Publi- 
 cation. 
 
 London : L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 
 
k 
 
 ^ MATALOGUE of 
 New & Practical 
 
 BOOKS 
 
 Published by 
 
 L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, Strand, London, 
 
 ,r 
 
 Angling 20,22 
 
 Bazaars 21 
 
 Bees 7 
 
 Bicycles and Tri- 
 cycles 21 
 
 Bird Stuffing 19 
 
 Boats 17,18 
 
 Boats and Yachts 
 
 17, 18, 20 
 
 Bookbinding 17 
 
 Books 13 
 
 Butterflies 19 
 
 Cage Birds 9,10 
 
 Carpentry 18 
 
 Coffee Stalls 17 
 
 Coins 7 
 
 Conjuring 21 
 
 Cookery 17 
 
 Decorations 14 
 
 Degrees 13 
 
 Dogs 3, 4 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Eggs 8 
 
 Exhibition 4 
 
 Farming 4, 5, 19 
 
 Ferrets 5 
 
 Gardening 11 
 
 Goats 4 
 
 Guinea Pigs 6 
 
 Handwriting 13 
 
 Holiday Guides .... 14 
 
 Horses 5 
 
 Indian Outfits 17 
 
 Journalism 14 
 
 Lace 16 
 
 Legal Profession 13 
 
 Metal Working .... 18 
 
 Mice 5 
 
 Music 6 
 
 Natural History 19 
 
 Needlework 16, 17 
 
 Painting 6, 7 
 
 Pheasants 10 
 
 Photography 21 
 
 Pianofortes 19 
 
 Picture Frames 17 
 
 Pigeons 10 
 
 Pigs 5 
 
 Pottery 7 
 
 Poultry 8 
 
 Printing 18 
 
 Rabbits 5 
 
 Repouss^ 17 
 
 Shooting 21 
 
 Shorthand 13, 14- 
 
 Sick Nursing 16 
 
 Skating 20 
 
 Theatricals 21 
 
 Toymaking 18 
 
 Trapping 20 
 
 Tuning 19 
 
 Turning 18 
 
 Wood Carving 18 
 
 No. 2.— 1887. 
 
Pu"blislied 
 
 IFirstofeachJ 
 
 Month. 
 
 ^\^^^0EU 
 
 ENABLE 
 
 V APPEARING MONTHLY. X 
 
 Patronized and Subscribed to by HEE MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE QUEEN. 
 
 T?rkTT"R BACH NUMBER CONTAINS "OT A T'TT'Q 
 
 JjiJUXV BEAUTIFULLY-COIiOTJRED FASHION Jl -LiJ^ ± JliO 
 
 Expressly Designed for this Journal, and Copyright. 
 
 Thirty-two Pages of Letterpress, splendidly Illustrated T^ith OVER 100 ENGRAVINGS 
 of the Latest Fashions from Paris, and a new serial story. 
 
 A FULL-SIZED CUT-OUT PAPER PATTERN OF A COMING MODE. 
 
 A Review of the Fashions. 
 New Styles and Coming- Fashions. 
 Children's Dress in London and Paris. 
 Notes of the Month. 
 
 Fashionable Chapeaux 
 
 A Glance at the Theatres. 
 New Furniture and Ornaments. 
 Costumes for Town and Country Wear. 
 Fashionable Fine Art Needlework. 
 
 .••«..»»"S.«»'S..»*S,.*"S..-«.,."«...' 
 
 «..»*-«..•"♦..•"♦..♦"*»..♦•♦...•-%..•-.. 
 
 *•»..••%..•"•»..•••..." 
 
 
 The most ladylike and economical Fashion Magazine in the World. 
 
 EACH NUMBER CONTAINS 48 PAGES LETTERPRESS. 
 
 A SUPERBLY COLOURED FASHION 
 PLATE of the Newest Toilets for Ladies 
 and Children. 
 
 In may and NOVEMBER, a Treble- 
 SIZE Coloured Fashion Pl.\te (Four- 
 teen Figures) is given. 
 
 A LARGE DIAGRAM SHEET 
 for Cut-out Life-sized Patterns of all 
 kinds of Articles of Dress. 
 
 A FULL-SIZED CUT-OUT PAPER 
 PATTERN of a Coming Mode. 
 
 CHILDREN'S DRESS for Outdoor, In- 
 door, School, and Home Wear. 
 
 SPINNING IN TOWN. By The Silk- 
 worm. 
 
 What Dress to Wear, and How to Alter 
 Dresses. 
 
 Models from the Grands Magasins du 
 Louvre, Paris. 
 
 New Needlework of all descriptions. 
 
 MYRA'S ANSWERS. Latest from Paris. 
 Dress, Etiquette, Health, and Personal 
 Attention. Needlework. Music. Books 
 and Authors. The Cuisine. Modes for 
 Children. House Furniture and Fur- 
 nishing. Miscellaneous, &c. 
 
 EACH NUMBER CONTAINS 
 THIRTY-TWO PAGES LETTERPRESS, Illustrated with about FIFTY 
 
 Engravings 
 Of all the Best and Latest Fashions for Ladies, Young Ladies, and Children, 
 
 including the 
 MODELS from ZES GRANDS MAGASINS DJT LOUVItE, PAMIS. 
 Dress and Fashion in Paris. Modes for Children. Myra's Workroom. Description 
 of Engravings. Etiquette. Spinnings in Town. Myra's Answers. Health and 
 Personal Attention. Miscellaneous. Latest from Paris. 
 
 London : MYRA & SON, 39 & 40, Bedford-8t.,Covent Garden. 
 
OF 
 
 Practical Handbooks. 
 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 •' We strongly recommend a perusal of it to all who have to do with young dogs, 
 whether for sport or as companions."— i^anners' Gazette. 
 
 P^REAKING AND TRAINING DOGS : Being Concise Direc- 
 *^ tions for the proper Education of Dogs, both for the Field and for 
 Companions. Second Edition. By " Pathfinder." With Chapters 
 by Hugh Dalziel on Work of Special Breeds ; Trail or Drag 
 Hounds ; Training Bloodhounds ; Defenders and Watch Dogs ; Sheep 
 Dogs — Stock Tenders ; Life Savers — Water Dogs ; Vermin 
 Destroyers ; House Manners ; Behaviour Out of Doors. Illustrated. 
 In cloth gilt, price 6s. 6d. 
 
 ORITISH DOGS: Their Varieties, History, Characteristics, 
 '^ Breeding, Management, and Exhibition. By Hugh Dalziel, 
 Author of "The Diseases of Dogs," "The Diseases of Horses," 
 &c., assisted by Eminent Fanciers. NEW EDITION, Revised and 
 Enlarged. Illustrated with First-class COLOURED PLATES and 
 full-page Engravings of Dogs of the Day. This will be the fullest 
 and most recent work on the various breeds of dogs kept in England, 
 and, as its Author is one of the first living authorities on the subject, 
 its accuracy can be relied upon. In Monthly Parts, price jd. 
 
 " As a rule, no authors are more egotistic than those who write on subjects con- 
 nected with sport, but Mr. Dalziel is a brilliant exception Mr. Dalziel's 
 
 summary of the points of a Greyhound is admirable, and young coursers would 
 
 do well to learn it by heart The chapter on Breeding is one of the most 
 
 interesting in the hook."— Saturday Review. 
 
 ^HE GREYHOUND. A Monograph on the History, Points, 
 ^^ Breeding, Rearing, Training, and Running of the Greyhound. With 
 Coloured Frontispiece. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
4 L. UpcOTT Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 
 
 " Will enable anybody who keeps a dog to deal with cases of ordinary indisposition 
 or injury."— TAe Scotsman. 
 
 p\ISEASES OF DOGS : Their Pathology, Diagnosis, and Treat- 
 *^ ment ; to which is added a complete Dictionary of Canine Materia 
 Medica ; Modes of Administering Medicines ; Treatment in cases of 
 Poisoning, and the Value of Disinfectants. For the use of Amateurs. 
 By Hugh Dalziel, Author of " British Dogs," &c. New, Revised, 
 and greatly Enlarged Edition. In paper., price \s.\ in cloth gilt., is. 
 
 " The editor has left little room for improvement."— iiue Stock Journal. 
 
 L^ENNEL DIARY. A Register for Owners, Breeders, and Ex- 
 -^^ hibitors of Dogs, wherein they can keep full particulars of their 
 Studs in a convenient and comprehensive manner. It contains, in 
 addition to a complete Gestation Table for the Year : i, Index 
 Diary ; 2, Owner's Diary ; 3, Breeder's Diary ; 4, Diary of Pups ; 
 5, Stud Diary ; 6, Exhibition Diary ; 7, General Diary ; 8, Pedigree 
 Diary; 9, Receipts; 10, Expenditure; 11, General Balance Sheet. 
 In cloth, with Pockets for Certificates, y. 6d. 
 
 " Just what are wanted, for a set of these books will save a vast amount of 
 labour and trouble."— Tfte Stock-keeper. 
 
 EXHIBITION ACCOUNT BOOKS. For use at all Dog Shows. 
 
 ^-^^ In Four Books, comprising: I. Minute Book; II. Cash Book; 
 III. Entries Book; IV. Ledger. With Full Directions, and Illus- 
 trative Examples for Working them. N.B. — The Set of Four 
 Books is kept in Three Series: No. i, for Show of 500 Entries, 5^-. 
 the Set ; No. 2, for 1000 Entries, js. 6d. the Set ; and No. 3, for 
 1500 Entries, 12s. 6d. the Set. Larger sizes in proportion. The 
 books can be had separate. Minute Book — No i, is. ; No. 2, 
 IS. 2>d' ; No. 3, 2s. Cash Book — No. i, 2s. ; No. 2, 2s. 6d. ; 
 No. 3, 4-$-. Entries Book — No. i, 2s. ; No. 2, 2s. 6d. ; No. 3, 4^-. 
 Ledger — No. i, 2i-. ; No. 2, 2s. 6d. ; No. 3, ^s. 
 
 "A mass of interesting material."— T/te Field. 
 
 PRACTICAL DAIRY FARMING. A Short Treatise on the 
 ■*■ Profitable Management of a Dairy Farm. Illustrated. By G. 
 Seaward Witcombe. I7i paper, price \s. 6d. 
 
 " The best book we know on the subject." — Chambers's Journal. 
 
 T^OOK OF THE GOAT. Containing Full Particulars of the 
 
 ^^ various Breeds of Goats, and their Profitable Management. With 
 
 many Plates. By H. Stephen Holmes Pegler. Third Edition, 
 
 Revised, Enlarged, and with additional Illustrations and Coloured 
 
 Frontispiece. In cloth gilt, price ^s. 6d. 
 
 " We can conceive of no better book for anyone commencing to keep these valuable 
 animals,"— i'^ancier*' Gazette 
 
 (;:^OAT-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS: Being the Practical 
 ^^ Management of Goats for Milking Purposes. Abridged from "The 
 
 Book of the Goat,'' by H. S. HOLMES Pegler. Illustrated. In 
 
 paper, price is. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
L. Upcott Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 5 
 
 " Should be in the hands of every horse owner."— ^jpor^in^r Chronicle. 
 
 T^ISEASES OF HORSES : Their Pathology, Diagnosis, and 
 ^^ Treatment ; to which is added a complete Dictionary of Equine 
 
 Materia Medica. For the use of Amateurs. By HUGH Dalziel. 
 
 In paper, price \s. 6d. 
 
 " This is assuredly a publication to be proud of. It goes a good deal further than 
 any book on the subject which has been issued before, and, without being 
 infallible, is well informed, well illustrated, and well written,"— TAe Field. 
 
 P^OOK OF THE PIG. Containing the Selection, Breeding, 
 -^^ Feeding, and Management of the Pig ; the Treatment of its 
 Diseases ; the Curing and Preserving of Hams, Bacon, and other 
 Pork Foods ; and other information appertaining to Pork Farming. 
 By Professor James Long. Fully Illustrated with Portraits of Prize 
 Pigs, by Harrison Weir and other Artists, Plans of Model 
 Piggeries, &c. In cloth gilt, price 1 5^-. 
 
 " Not merely a good deal of useful and practical information, but many bits of 
 homely folk-lore."— Speciaior. 
 
 V>IG-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Guide to the 
 ^ Profitable Management of Pigs. By G. Gilbert (" Gurth "). In 
 paper, price \s. 
 
 " We have often had occasion to recommend this work,"— TAe Field. 
 
 TDABBITS FOR PRIZES AND PROFIT. Containing Full 
 -*• \ Directions for the Proper Management of Fancy Rabbits in Health 
 and Disease, for Pets or the Market, and Descriptions of every 
 known Variety, with Instructions for Breeding good specimens. Il- 
 lustrated. By the late Charles Rayson. Revised by the Editor 
 of " The Book of the Rabbit." In cloth gilt, price is. 6d. May also 
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 General Management of Rabbits. Including Hutches, Breed- 
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 In paper, price \s. 
 
 Exhibition Rabbits : Being Descriptions of all Varieties of 
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 Illustrated. (Forming Part II. of ^'' Rabbits for Prizes attd Proft.^^) 
 In paper, price \s. 
 
 •' Well worthy of perusal Contains valuable information."— /Siporisman. 
 
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 ^ the Breeding, Management, and Working of Ferrets. In paper, 
 price 6d. 
 
 " Goes thoroughly into the" subject. "-Caw&ncZ.f/e Chronicle. 
 
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 TDRACTICAL VIOLIN SCHOOL for Home Students. A 
 
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 Home Students." By J. M. Fleming. In demy ^to, cloth gilt, price 
 
 2,s. 6d. 
 
 © 
 
 HE ESSENTIALS OF PERSPECTIVE. With numerous 
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 of the School of Industrial Art of the Pennsylvania Museum, Phila- 
 delphia. This book is such a manual as has long been desired for the 
 guidance of art students and for self-instruction. It contains as much 
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 than the merely scientific theory of the art. The instructions are 
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 cussion, and the principles are vividly enforced by a large number 
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 miRROR PAINTING IN THE ITALIAN STYLE. A 
 ^-^ Practical Manual of Instruction for Amateurs. This highly 
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 always worthy of the design, in consequence of want of knowledge on 
 the part of the artist ; this book will supply the deficiency. By 
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 rTLL ABOUT PAINTING ON CHINA. With Twelve De- 
 
 j ^ scriptive Lessons. The object of this little book is to teach, by 
 
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L. Upcott Gill, Publisher^ 170, Strand, London. 7 
 
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 p\ECORATIVE PAINTING. A Practical Handbook on Paint 
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 rjRTISTIC AMUSEMENTS: Being Instructions in Colouring 
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 fj GUIDE TO ENGLISH PATTERN COINS in Gold, Silver, 
 
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 By the Rev. G. F. Crowther, M.A., Member of the Numismatic 
 
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 fr GUIDE TO THE COINS OF GREAT BRITAIN AND 
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 eNGLISH POTTERY AND PORCELAIN. A Manual for 
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 In cloth gilt, price y. 6d. 
 
 BEES AND BIRDS. 
 
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 BEES AND BEE-KEEPING: Scientific and Practical. By 
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 F)OULTRY AILMENTS AND THEIR TREATMENT. A 
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 EXHIBITION ACCOUNT BOOKS. For use at all Poultry, 
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 No. 3, 4$. Ledger — No. i, 2s.; No. 2, 2s. 6d.; No. 3, 4s. 
 
 " Every breeder should provide himself with this useful little record."— PouZ^rj/. 
 
 ^HE SITTING HEN RECORD. Forming a Convenient 
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 Labels which can be readily attached to or above the Nest-boxes, 
 showing at a glance the Number of Eggs under the Hen, the Variety, 
 and when they should be brought off. Price — 50 Forms ^ 6d.j 100 
 Forms, is. 
 
 FERTILITY OF EGGS CERTIFICATE. These are Forms 
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 F>OULTRY FOR PRIZES AND PROFIT. Contains : Breed- 
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 Trucks AND GEESE : Their Characteristics, Points, and 
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 POREIGN CAGE BIRDS. Containing Full Directions for 
 ^ Successfully Breeding, Rearing, and Managing the various 
 Beautiful Cage Birds imported into this country. Beautifully Illus- 
 trated. By C. W. Gedney. In cloth gilt, in two vols., price Zs. 6d.; 
 in extra cloth gilt, gilt edges, in one vol., price <^s. 6d. 
 
 Parrots, Parrakeets, Cockatoos, Lories, and Macaws : 
 Their Varieties, Breeding, and Management. Illustrated. (Forming 
 Vol. I. of " Foreign Cage Birds.^^) In cloth gilt, price 3^. dd. 
 
 Waxbills, Finches, Weavers, Orioles, and other Small Foreign 
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 "This very comprehensive work which is one of a most practical character, 
 
 .... may be safely consulted by all canary fanciers."— TAe Field. 
 
 /^ANARY BOOK. Containing Full Directions for the Breeding 
 ^-^ Rearing, and Management of all Varieties of Canaries and Canary 
 Mules, the Promotion and Management of Canary Societies and 
 Exhibitions, and all other matters connected with this Fancy. By 
 Robert L. Wallace. Second Edition, Enlarged and Revised, 
 with many new Illustrations of Prize Birds, Cages, &c. In cloth gilt, 
 price 5J". May also be had in two Sections as follow : 
 
 General Management of Canaries. Including Cages and 
 Cage-making, Breeding, Managing, Mule Breeding, Diseases and 
 their Treatment, Moulting, Rats and Mice, &c. Illustrated. Second 
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 Exhibition Canaries. Containing Full Particulars of all the 
 different Varieties, their Points of Excellence, Preparing Birds for 
 Exhibition, Formation and Management of Canary Societies and 
 Exhibitions. Illustrated. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
 (Forming Section II. of the " Canary Book.") In cloth, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 " No lover of birds should fail to possess himself or herself of the hook."— Hotting' 
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 T^ISEASES OF CAGE BIRDS : Their Cause, Symptoms, and 
 ^^ Treatment. A Handbook which should be in the hands of every- 
 one who keeps a Bird, as successful Treatment of Ailments depends on 
 knowing what to do, and doing it promptly. By Dr. W. T. Greene, 
 F.Z.S. In paper, price \s. 
 
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 T;DRITISH CAGE BIRDS. Containing Full Directions for 
 
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 O'pinicm. 
 
 ^HE SPEAKING PARROTS. A Scientific Manual on the Art 
 ^-^ of Keeping and Breeding the principal Talking Parrots in Confine- 
 ment. By Dr. Karl Russ, Author of " The Foreign Aviary Birds," 
 "Manual for Bird Fanciers,^' &c. Illustrated with COLOURED 
 PLATES. In cloth gilt, price 6s. 6d. 
 
 " Is worthy of a hearty welcome from all breeders and keepers of foreign birds." 
 —Live Stock Journal. 
 
 fjMATEUR'S AVIARY OF FOREIGN BIRDS ; or, How to 
 
 J ^ Keep and Breed Foreign Birds with Pleasure and Profit in 
 
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 &c., Author of " Parrots in Captivity," &c. In cloth gilt, price 3^'. dd. 
 
 " A prettier present for anyone who is fond of these household pets it would be 
 difficult to ^xv^."— Stock-keeper. 
 
 P^IRDS I HAVE KEPT IN YEARS GONE BY: With 
 -^--^ Original Anecdotes, and Full Directions for Keeping them Success- 
 fully. By W. T. Greene, M.A., M.D., F.Z.S., &c.. Author of 
 "Parrots in Captivity," " The Amateur's Aviary"; Editor of " Notes 
 on Cage Birds," &c., &c. With COLOURED PLATES. In cloth 
 gilt^ price ^s. 
 
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 FANCY PIGEONS. Containing Full Directions for the Breed- 
 ing and Management of Fancy Pigeons, and Descriptions of every 
 known Variety, together with all other information of interest or use to 
 Pigeon Fanciers. Third Edition, bringing the subject down to the 
 present time. 18 COLOURED PLATES, and 22 other full-page 
 Illustrations. By J. C. Lyell. In cloth gilt, price los. 6d. 
 
 prVIARY PHEASANTS FOR AMATEURS. A Practical 
 j^ Handbook on the Breeding, Rearing, and General Manage- 
 ment of Fancy Pheasants in Confinement. By Geo. Horne. 
 Illustrated with Diagrams of the necessary Pens, Aviaries, &c., and 
 a COLOURED FRONTISPIECE, and many full-page Engravings 
 of the chief Varieties of Pheasants, drawn from life by A. F. Lydon. 
 Price 3-9. 6d. 
 
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 GARDENING. 
 
 " This important undertaking."— Dai7.v Telegraph. 
 
 " The mo3t complete work of its kind."— Daily News. 
 
 " The fullest information is given, and the illustrations, which are exceedingly 
 
 numerous, are first rate."— TAe World. 
 
 r)ICTIONARY OF GARDENING. A Practical Encyclopaedia 
 ^^ of Horticulture, for Amateurs and Professionals. Illustrated with 
 upwards of 2000 Engravings. Edited by G. Nicholson, Curator 
 of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew ; assisted by Prof. Trail, M.D , 
 Rev. P. W. Myles, M.A., B. W. Hemsley, A.L.S., W. Watson, 
 J. Garrett, and other Specialists. Vol. I., A to E, 552pp., 743 Illus- 
 trations ; Vol. II., F to O, 544PP- and 811 Illustrations; and 
 Vol. III., P to S, 537pp. and 564 Illustrations. Noze; ready., price 
 \^s, each; also in Monthly Parts., price \s. 
 
 "Lovers of these beautiful flowers will welcome this edition."— Paper arid 
 Printing Trades Journal. 
 
 T ^ILY OF THE VALLEY : All About It, and How to Grow It; 
 •*— * Forced Indoors and Out of Doors, in Various Ways. By William 
 Roberts. In paper covers, price 6d. 
 
 " Ought to be in the hands of everybody."— TAe Qiieen. 
 
 /^^REENHOUSE MANAGEMENT FOR AMATEURS. De- 
 ^^ scriptions of the best Greenhouses and Frames, with Instructions 
 for Building them, particulars of the various methods of Heating, Illus- 
 trated Descriptions of the most suitable Plants, with general and 
 special Cultural Directions, and all necessary information for the 
 Guidance of the Amateur. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
 Magnificently Illustrated. By W. J. May. In cloth gilt, price ^s. 
 
 '• Seems particularly useful."— ^^Aewoewn. 
 
 pCARDY PERENNIALS AND OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN' 
 
 ^ / FLOWERS. Descriptions, alphabetically arranged, of the most 
 
 desirable Plants for Borders, Rockeries, and Shrubberies, including 
 
 Foliage as well as Flowering Plants. Profusely Illustrated. By J. 
 
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 " Full of practical remarks, tending to make it a reliable and useful guide to 
 amateur gardeners."— TAe Farmer. 
 
 fJRBORICULTURE FOR AMATEURS: Being Instructions 
 y^ for the Planting and Cultivation of Trees for Ornament or Use, 
 and Selections and Descriptions of those suited to Special Require- 
 ments as to Soil, Situation, &c. By William H. Ablett, Author 
 of " English Trees and Tree Planting," &c. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 " It is just the sort of book one would refer to in emergency."— TA* Florist and 
 
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 GARDEN PESTS AND THEIR ERADICATION. Contain- 
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 of the Garden. With numerous Illustrations. In paper, price is. 
 
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 the experience of a quarter of a century."— C?arde?ier's Chronicle. 
 
 r^RCHIDS FOR AMATEURS. Containing Descriptions of 
 ^^ Orchids suited to the requirements of the Amateur, with full In- 
 structions for their successful Cultivation. With numerous beautiful 
 Illustrations. By James Britten, F.L.S., and W. H. Cower. In 
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 " One of the best and most trustworthy books on bulb culture that have been put 
 before the public."— Gardener's Chronicle. 
 
 P^ULBS AND BULB CULTURE : Being Descriptions, both 
 '^ Historical and Botanical, of the principal Bulbs and Bulbous 
 Plants grown in this Country, and their chief Varieties ; with Full and 
 Practical Instructions for their Successful Cultivation both In and Out 
 of Doors. Illustrated. By D. T. FiSH. /;z cloth gilt, in one vol.y 
 465 pp., price 5 J. 
 
 " Full, practical, .... and contains many valuable hints."— Garden. 
 
 TDOSE BUDDING. Containing Full Instructions for the Success- 
 "^X ful Performance of this interesting Operation. Illustrated. Amateurs 
 
 will find the information here given of great assistance. By D. T. 
 
 Fish. In paper, price 6d. 
 
 " One of the few gardening books that will suit everybody."— Crardener's Magazine. 
 
 F)RUNING, GRAFTING, AND BUDDING FRUIT TREES. 
 ■^ Illustrated with Ninety-three Diagrams. A book which can be 
 
 followed with advantage by amateur fruit growers. By D. T. FiSH. 
 
 In paper, price \s. 
 
 " Before entering on the cultivation of cucumbers, melons, marrows, or gourds, we 
 would recommend to their perusal Mr. May's h&ndhook."— Dublin Evening 
 Mail. 
 
 (^UCUMBER CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. Including also 
 ^-^ Melons, Vegetable Marrows, and Gourds. Illustrated. By W. J. 
 May. I?i paper, price \s. 
 
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 yINE CULTURE FOR AMATEURS : Being Plain Direc- 
 tions for the Successful Growing of Grapes with the Means and 
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 are so generally grown in villa greenhouses, that this book cannot fail 
 to be of great service to many persons. By W. J. May. In paper^ 
 price IS. 
 
 " None more simple and practically useful."— TAe British Mail. 
 
 yEGETABLE CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. Concise 
 Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables so as to insure 
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 each Sort. By W. J. May. In paper, price \s. 
 
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 "This excellent little book gives every direction necessary."— DaiYy Bristol Times 
 and Mirror. 
 
 mUSHROOM CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. With Full 
 
 ^-*-^ Directions for Successful Growth in Houses, Sheds, Cellars, 
 
 and Pots, on Shelves, and Out of Doors. Illustrated. By W. J. 
 
 May, Author of "Vine Culture for Amateurs," "Vegetable Culture 
 
 for Amateurs," " Cucumber Culture for Amateurs." In paper, price \s. 
 
 •' Labour greatly assisted by a perusal of this work."— iV^ori^ British Agriculturist. 
 
 PROFITABLE MARKET GARDENING. Adapted for the 
 
 use of all Growers and Gardeners. By William Earley, 
 
 Author of " High-class Kitchen Gardening," &c. //z clo/k, price 2s. 
 
 GENERAL LITERATURE. 
 
 "Is a complete storehouse of educational information."— TAe Graphic. 
 
 TT GUIDE TO DEGREES in Arts, Science, Literature, Law 
 3 ^ Music, and Divinity, in the United Kingdom, the Colonies, the 
 Continent, and the United States. By E. Wooton, Author of 
 "A Guide to the Medical Profession," &c. In cloth, price i^s. 
 
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 mation to determine which branch it shall be, will find a great deal here 
 that will assist him."— TAe Law Student's Journal. 
 
 rr GUIDE TO THE LEGAL PROFESSION. A Practical 
 J ^ Treatise on the various Methods of Entering either Branch of 
 the Legal Profession ; also a Course of Study for each of the 
 Examinations, and selected Papers of Questions ; forming a Com- 
 plete Guide to every Department of Legal Preparation. By J. H. 
 Slater, Barrister-at-Law, of the Middle Temple. Price ys. 6d. 
 
 "Is certain to be very much appreciated."— TAe Derhy Mercury. 
 
 OHORTHAND SYSTEMS; WHICH IS THE BEST? Being a 
 *^ Discussion, by various English Authors and Experts, on the Merits 
 and Demerits of Taylor's, Gurney's, Pitman's, Everett's, Janes', 
 Pocknell's, Peachey's, Guest's, Williams', Odell's, and Redfern's 
 Systems, with Illustrative Examples. Edited by Thomas Anderson, 
 Author of " History of Shorthand," &c. This is a book which ought 
 to be carefully read by every person who is about to take up the 
 study of shorthand. In paper, price is. 
 
 a.^ 
 
 " An amusing little book."— Pw&Zic Opinion. 
 
 ^'HARACTER INDICATED BY HANDWRITING. With 
 ^^ Illustrations in Support of the Theories advanced taken from 
 Autograph Letters of Statesmen, Lawyers, Soldiers, Ecclesiastics, 
 Authors, Poets, Musicians, Actors, and other persons. Second 
 Edition, Revised and Enlarged. By R. Baughan. In cloth gilt, 
 price IS. 6d. 
 
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14 L. Upcott Gill, Publisher^ 170, Strand^ London. 
 
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 ^ Succeed. A Manual for Beginners and Amateurs. A book for 
 
 all who think of "writing for the Press." By John Dawson. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 "A most excellent and useful handbook."— PttftZic Opinion. 
 
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 ^^ of a Library and the Valuation of Rare and Standard Books. 
 By J. H. Slater, Barrister-at-Law, Author of "A Guide to the 
 Legal Profession." Second Edition. In cloth, 112pp., price 2s. 6d. 
 
 •'A very entertaining and able little hook."— Literary World. 
 
 T pESSONS IN SHORTHAND, ON GURNEY'S SYSTEM (IM- 
 ^-^ PROVED) : Being Instruction in the Art of Shorthand Writing 
 
 as used in the Service of the two Houses of Parliament. By R. E. 
 
 Miller, of Dublin University ; formerly Parliamentary Reporter ; 
 
 Fellow of the Shorthand Society. In paper, price is. 
 
 "Much valuable and practical information."— iSii/Zma'« Home Journal. 
 
 (^HURCH FESTIVAL DECORATIONS. Comprising Direc- 
 ^^ tions and Designs for the Suitable Decoration of Churches for 
 Christmas, Easter, Whitsuntide, and Harvest. Illustrated. A useful 
 book for the Clergy and their Lay Assistants. In paper, price is. 
 
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 GUIDES TO PLACES. 
 
 " A capital guide to the angler, the yachtsman, or the artist." — Scotsman. 
 
 HE LAND OF THE BROADS. By E. R. Suffling. 
 ILLUSTRATED EDITION.— The most Complete Guide to 
 the whole of the District — embracing the Broads and their Water- 
 ways of Norfolk and Suffolk— that has yet been published, as it 
 contains more practical and reliable information than is to be found 
 elsewhere respecting Yachting, Fishing, Places of Interest, Archaeo- 
 logical Remains, Natural Features of the Country, the Birds and 
 Fishes found there, the Customs of the Natives, and other points 
 concerning which Tourists desire to know. A good Map of the 
 Broads, Rivers, Chief Roads, and Places named, printed in four 
 colours, accompanies the work. Price 2s. 6d. 
 
 CHEAP EDITION.— A Cheap Edition of a reliable Guide to the 
 Norfolk Broads, which would meet the requirements of the general 
 Public, having been called for, the First Edition of the above Book 
 has been issued in this form, but it has been embellished with some 
 Plates of Characteristic Sketches taken on the spot by the well- 
 known artist of Fishing and Waterside Subjects, Mr. J. Temple. 
 A good and clear Map, in black and white, is also given. In Illus- 
 trated Cover, printed in colours, j!^r/V^ is. 
 
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 ^HE TOURIST'S ROUTE MAP OF ENGLAND AND 
 ^^ WALES, Second Edition, thoroughly Revised. Shows clearly all 
 the Main, and most of the Cross Roads,' and the Distances between 
 the Chief Towns, as well as the Mileage from London. In addition 
 to this, Routes of Thirty of the inost Interesting Tours are printed in 
 red. The Map is mounted on linen, so as not to tear, and is inclosed 
 in a strong cloth case ; it is thus in a convenient form for the pocket, 
 and will not suffer from ordinary fair wear and tear, as is the case with 
 most maps. This is, without doubt, the fullest, most accurate, 
 handiest, and cheapest tourist's map in the market. In cloihy 
 price \s. 2d. 
 
 " The information it gives is of a decidedly practical and reliable nature."— TAe 
 
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 OEASIDE WATERING PLACES. A Description of 179 Holiday 
 *^ Resorts on the Coasts of England and Wales, the Channel Islands, 
 and the Isle of Man, including the gayest and most quiet places, 
 giving full particulars of them and their attractions, and all other 
 information likely to assist persons in selecting places in which to 
 spend their HoHdays according to their individual tastes, with 
 BUSINESS DIRECTORY OF TRADESMEN, arranged in order 
 of the town. Fifth Edition, with Maps and Illustrations. In cloth, 
 price IS. 6d. 
 
 •'We can confidently recommend this hook."— The Literary World. 
 
 /^OUR IN THE STATES AND CANADA. Out and Home 
 ^^ in Six Weeks. By Thomas Greenwood. Illustrated. In cloth 
 gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 © 
 
 " One of the most useful handbooks to the River yet published."— TAe Graphic. 
 
 HE UPPER THAMES: FROM RICHMOND TO OX- 
 FORD. A Guide for Boating Men, Anglers, Picnic Parties, and 
 all Pleasure-seekers on the River. Arranged on an entirely New Plan. 
 Illustrated. In paper, price \s.; in cloth, with elastic band ana 
 Pocket, 2s. 
 
 " It is a model ' guide,' and supplies a want."— TAe Field. 
 
 Zj^INTER HAVENS IN THE SUNNY SOUTH. A Com- 
 
 ^^^ plete Handbook to the Riviera, with a Notice of the New Station, 
 
 Alassio. Splendidly Illustrated. By Rosa Baughan, Author of 
 
 " The Northern Watering Places of France." In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 •* We have pleasure in recommending this work."— CooXr'* Excursionist. 
 
 nORTHERN WATERING PLACES OF FRANCE. A 
 Guide for English People to the Holiday Resorts on the Coasts 
 of the French Netherlands, Picardy, Normandy, and Brittany. By 
 Rosa Baughan, Author of "Winter Havens in the Sunny South," 
 &c. In paper, price 2s. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [All Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
16 L. Upcott Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 "This very complete and rather luxurious volume is a thorough encyclopaedia 
 artistic, plain, and fancy needlework. . . . After being submitted to the 
 severe test of feminine criticism, the Dictionary emerges trinmphant ... 
 The volume as a whole deserves no small commendation."— T/ie Standard. 
 
 "This volume, one of the handsomest of its kind, is illustrated in the best sense 
 of the term. . . . It is useful and concise — in fact, it is exactly what it 
 professes to be. . . . This book has endured the severest test at our 
 command with rare success."— TTie Athenceum. 
 
 /^HE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. An Encyclopaedia 
 ^^ of Artistic, Plain, and Fancy Needlework ; Plain, practical, 
 complete, and magnificently Illustrated. By S. F. A. Caulfeild 
 and B. C. Saward. Accepted by H.M. the Queen, H.R.H. the 
 Princess of Wales, H.R.H. the Duchess of Edinburgh, H.R.H. the 
 Duchess of Connaught, and H.R.H. the Duchess of Albany. Dedi- 
 cated by special permission to H.R.H. Princess Louise, Marchioness 
 of Lome. In demjy /\to, 528^., 829 illustrations, extra cloth gilt, 
 plain edges, cushioned bevelled boards, price lis.; with COLOURED 
 PLATES, elegant satin brocade cloth binding and coloured edges, 
 3 1 J. dd, 
 
 " We have seldom seen a book of this class better got up."— £eM'« Weekly Messenger. 
 
 P^ONITON LACE BOOK. Containing Full and Practical In- 
 ^ / structions for Making Honiton Lace. With numerous Illustrations. 
 In cloth gilt, price 3^. 6d. 
 
 " Will prove a valuable acquisition to the student of art needlework."— TAe English- 
 woman's Review. 
 
 fJRTISTIC FANCY WORK SERIES. A Series of Illustrated 
 5^ Manuals on Artistic and Popular Fancy Work of various kinds. 
 Each number is complete in itself, and issued at the uniform price of 
 6d. Now ready— (i) Macrame Lace (Second Edition) ; (2) Patch- 
 work; (3) Tatting; (4) Crewel Work ; (5) Applique. 
 
 " It cannot fail to be useful and appreciated."— FeWon'« Ladies' Journal. 
 
 /^HURCH EMBROIDERY: Its Early History and Manner 
 ^ of Working ; Materials Used and Stitches Employed ; Raised and 
 Flat Couching, Applique, &c., &c., including Church Work over Card- 
 board. Illustrated. A practical handbook for Church Workers. In 
 paper, price \s. 
 
 " A copy ought to be in every nursery."— Sooety. 
 
 SICK NURSING AT HOME : Being Plain Directions and 
 Hints for the Proper Nursing of Sick Persons, and the Home 
 Treatment of Diseases and Accidents in case of Sudden Emergencies. 
 By S. F. A. Caulfeild. In paper, price \s. ; in cloth, price \s. 6d. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
L. Upcott Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 17 
 
 " A most valuable guide."— TAe Queen. 
 
 F>RACTICAL HINTS ON COFFEE STALL MANAGE- 
 -*-» MENT, and other Temperance Work for the Laity. In paper., 
 price IS. 
 
 "Is admirably suited to its purpose."— TAe Broad Arrow. 
 
 (Rookery for amateurs ; or, French Dishes for English 
 
 ^ Homes of all Classes. Includes Simple Cookery, Middle-class 
 
 Cookery, Superior Cookery, Cookery for Invalids, and Breakfast and 
 
 Luncheon Cookery. By Madame Valerie. Second Edition. In 
 
 paper, price \s. 
 
 " Is thoroughly healthy in tone, and practical."— S'afwrday Review. 
 
 INDIAN OUTFITS AND ESTABLISHMENTS. A Practical 
 -*• Guide for Persons about to Reside in India ; detailing the Articles 
 which should be taken out, and the Requirements of Home Life and 
 Management there. By an Anglo-Indian. In cloth, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 MECHANICS. 
 
 *' A handy manual for the study of an interesting and important art."— TAe Graphic. 
 
 ];500KBINDING FOR AMATEURS : Being Descriptions of 
 ^^ the various Tools and Appliances Required, and Minute Instructions 
 
 for their Effective Use. By W. J. E. Crane. Illustrated with 156 
 
 Engravings. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 "It is thoroughly practical, is well illustrated, and contains the information that 
 
 beginners require."— Saturday Review. 
 
 TDEPOUSSE WORK FOR AMATEURS: Being the Art of 
 ^\ Ornamenting Thin Metal with Raised Figures. By L. L. Haslope. 
 Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price is. 6d. 
 
 "A capital manual. . . . All is clearly and concisely explained."— TAe GrapAfc. 
 
 F>RACTICAL BOAT BUILDING FOR AMATEURS. Con- 
 ^ taining Full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, 
 
 Canoes, Sailing Boats, &c. Fully Illustrated with Working Diagrams. 
 
 By Adrian Neison, C.E. New Edition, Revised and Enlarged, by 
 
 Dixon Kemp, Author of " Yacht Designing," " A Manual of Yacht 
 
 and Boat Sailing," &c. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 " The book is thoroughly exhaustive."— TAe Building World. 
 
 F)ICTURE FRAME MAKING FOR AMATEURS. Being 
 ^ Practical Instructions in the Making of various kinds of Frames 
 
 for Paintings, Drawings, Photographs, and Engravings. Illustrated. 
 
 By the Author of " Carpentry and Joinery," &c. Cheap Edition, in 
 
 paper, price is. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
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 "Concise and comprehensive."— TAc Figaro. 
 
 F)RINTING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Guide to the 
 
 ^ Art of Printing ; containing Descriptions of Presses and Materials, 
 
 together with Details of the Processes Employed, to which is added 
 
 a Glossary of Technical Terms. Illustrated. By P. E. Raynor. 
 
 In paper, price \s. 
 
 "Will be found of great interest."— /«ufi«rated Carpenter and Builder. 
 
 7j^\00D CARVING FOR AMATEURS. Containing Descrip- 
 
 ^-^ tions of all the requisite Tools, and Full Instructions for their Use 
 
 in producing different varieties of Carvings. Illustrated. A book 
 
 of very complete instructions for the amateur wood carver. In 
 
 paper, price is. 
 
 " The best of the book consists of practical instructions," — Iron. 
 
 (^ARPENTRY AND JOINERY FOR AMATEURS. Con- 
 ^-^ tains Full Descriptions of the various Tools Required in the 
 above Arts, together with Practical Instructions for their Use. By 
 the Author of " Turning for Amateurs," &c. In cloth gilt, price 2S. 6d. 
 
 " We can safely commend the volume,"— TTie Graphic. 
 
 (T)ODEL YACHTS AND BOATS : Their Designing, Making, 
 
 N ^ ^ and Sailing. Illustrated with 118 Designs and Working Diagrams. 
 
 A splendid book for boys and others interested in making and rigging 
 
 toy boats for sailing. It is the best book on the subject now published. 
 
 By J. DU V. Grosvenor. In leatherette, price ^s. 
 
 " Every possible information is given."- TAe Reliquary. 
 
 Zj'^ORKING IN SHEET METAL: Being Practical Instruc- 
 ^•^ tions for Making and Mending Small Articles in Tin, Copper, 
 
 Iron, Zinc, and Brass. Illustrated. Third Edition. By the Author of 
 
 " Turning for Amateurs," &c. In paper, price 6d. 
 
 "Gives the amateur copious descriptions of tools and methods of working," — 
 
 The Builder. 
 
 /^URNING FOR AMATEURS: Being Descriptions of the 
 ^^ Lathe and its Attachments and Tools, with Minute Instructions 
 
 for their Effective Use on Wood, Metal, Ivory, and other Materials. 
 
 New Edition, Revised and Enlarged. By James LUKIN, B.A., 
 
 Author of "The Lathe and its Uses," «&c. Illustrated with 144 
 
 Engravings. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d. 
 
 " A capital book for hoys."— Dispatch. 
 
 /^OYMAKING FOR AMATEURS. Containing Instructions 
 
 ^-^ for the Home Construction of Simple Wooden Toys, and of others 
 
 that are Moved or Driven by Weights, Clockwork, Steam, Electricity, 
 
 &c. Illustrated. By James Lukin, B.A., Author of " Turning for 
 
 Amateurs," &c. In cloth gilt, price i^s. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
L. UpcOTT Gill, Ptiblzsher, 170, Strand, London. 19 
 
 "A very useful little hook."— Sylvia's Home Journal. 
 
 ^UNING AND REPAIRING PIANOFORTES. The 
 ^^ Amateur's Guide to the Practical Management of a Piano with- 
 out the intervention of a Professional By Charles Babbington. 
 In paper ^ price 6d. 
 
 " A valuable handbook for ready reference."— vToumaZ of Forestry. 
 
 PRACTICAL ARCHITECTURE. As applied to Farm Build- 
 ^ ings of every description (Cow, Cattle, and Calf Houses, Stables, 
 Piggeries, Sheep Shelter Sheds, Root and other Stores, Poultry Houses), 
 Dairies, and Country Houses and Cottages. Profusely Illustrated with 
 Diagrams and Plans. By Robert Scott Burn. In cloth gilt, 
 price 5 J. 1 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 " Throughout the volume is essentially practical."— Z>a% Telegraph, 
 
 T^RACTICAL taxidermy, a Manual of Instruction to the 
 -*" Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting-up Natural History 
 Specimens of all kinds. Fully Illustrated with Engravings of Tools, 
 Examples, and Working Diagrams. By Montagu Browne, F.Z.S., 
 Curator of Leicester Museum. New and Enlarged Edition. In cloth 
 gilt, price js. 6d. 
 
 From Professor Ruskin.— " I have just opened your proofs, and am entirely 
 delighted by the glance at them. . . . The engraving of the cobra— Mr. 
 Babbage's— is the only true drawing of it I ever saw." 
 
 37:OOLOGICAL NOTES on the Structure, Affinities, Habits, 
 
 -^-^ and Faculties of Snakes, Marsupials, and Birds ; with Adventures 
 
 among, and Anecdotes of, them. By Arthur Nicols, F.G.S., 
 
 F.R.G.S., Author of " Natural History Sketches." In walnut or 
 
 sycamore, 2>vo, price js. 6d. 
 
 " This little volume is full of interest."— ^a<ur«. 
 
 nATURAL HISTORY SKETCHES AMONG THE CAR- 
 NIVORA — Wild and Domesticated ; with Observations on their 
 Habits and Mental Faculties. By Arthur Nicols, F.G.S., F.R.G.S., 
 Author of "Zoological Notes," "The Puzzle of Life." Illustrated by 
 J. T. Nettleship, C. E. Brittan, and T. W. Wood. In cloth 
 gilt, price 5^-. 
 
 " One of the handiest little helps yet published."— ii'xceZmr. 
 
 (Collecting butterflies and moths : Being 
 
 ^-^ Directions for Capturing, Killing, and Preserving Lepidoptera 
 and their Lar\^ae. Illustrated. Reprinted, with Additions, from 
 " Practical Taxidermy." By Montagu Browne, Author of " Practi- 
 cal Taxidermy." In paper, price \s. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [All Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
20 L. Upcott Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 
 
 SPORTS AND PASTIMES. 
 
 •• It is by a thoroughly practical angler Will form a valuable addition to the 
 
 angler's \\\)X2it^"— Fishing Gazette. 
 
 F)RACTICAL FISHERMAN. Dealing with the Natural 
 ^ History, the Legendary Lore, the Capture of British Freshwater 
 Fish, and Tackle and Tackle Making. Beautifully Illustrated. By 
 J. H. Keene. In cloth gilt., gilt edges., price \os. 6d. 
 
 " An ingenious method . . . and the instructions are brief and clear."— TAe Queen. 
 
 OKATING CARDS. A Series of Cards, of convenient size 
 *^ for Use on the Ice., containing Clear Instructions and Diagrams 
 for Learning the whole Art of Figure Skating. One of the cards, 
 containing the figure to be learnt, is held in the hand whilst skating, 
 so that the directions are read and acted on simultaneously. Tinted 
 cards., gilt edges, round corners, inclosed in strong leather pocket book, 
 price 2,s. 6d.; or i7i extra calf, satin lijied (for presejttation), price 5^. 6d. 
 
 " Cleverly written and illustrated."— Spor^smaJi. 
 
 F>RACTICAL TRAPPING : Being some Papers on Traps and 
 ^ Trapping for Vermin, with a Chapter on General Bird Trapping 
 and Snaring. By W. Carnegie. In paper, price \s. 
 
 " A capital manual. ... All is clearly and concisely explained."— TAc Graphic. 
 
 F>RACTICAL BOAT BUILDING AND SAILING. Con- 
 "^ taining Full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, 
 Canoes, Sailing Boats, &c. Particulars of the most Suitable Sailing 
 Boats and Yachts for Amateurs, and Instructions for their Proper 
 Handling. Fully Illustrated with Designs and Working Diagrams. 
 By Adrian Neison, C.E., Dixon Kemp, A. I.N. A., and G. 
 Christopher Davies. In one vol., cloth gilt, price js. 6d. 
 
 *• We know of n better companion for the young Yachtsman,"— (Spor<iw(7 Chronicle. 
 
 BOAT SAILING FOR AMATEURS. Containing Particulars 
 of the most Suitable Sailing Boats and Yachts for Amateurs, and 
 Instructions for their Proper Handling, &c. Illustrated with Nutnerous 
 Diagrams. By G. Christopher Davies. Second Edition, Revised 
 and Enlarged, and with several New Plans of Yachts. In cloth gilt, 
 price $s. 
 
 " Mr. Carnegie gives a great variety of useful information as to game and game pre- 
 serving, . , , We are glad to repeat that the volume contains much useful 
 
 information, with many valuable suggestions The instructions as ;to 
 
 pheasant rearing are sound, and nearly exhaustive."— TAe Times. 
 
 " It is practical, straightforward, and always lucid. The chapters on poaching and 
 poachers, both human and animal, are particularly to the point, and amusing 
 withal."— r^e World. 
 
 F)RACTICAL GAME PRESERVING. Containing the fullest 
 
 ^ Directions for Rearing and Preserving both Winged and Ground 
 
 Game, and Destroying Vermin ; with other Information of Value to 
 
 the Game Preserver. Illustrated. By William Carnegie. In cloth 
 
 gilt, detny 2>vo, price 21s. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [All Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
L. Upcott Gill, Publisher, 170, Strand, London. 21 
 
 " A thoroughly practical as well as a very interesting book."— TAe Graphic. 
 
 r^OTES ON GAME AND GAME SHOOTING. Miscellaneous 
 ^ ^ Observations on Birds and Animals, and on the Sport they 
 
 afford for the Gun in Great Britain, including Grouse, Partridges, 
 
 Pheasants, Hares, Rabbits, Quails, Woodcocks, Snipe, and Rooks. 
 
 By J. J. Manley, M.A., Author of " Notes on Fish and Fishing." 
 
 Illustrated. In cloth gilt^ 400//., price 7s. 6d. 
 
 " It is as comprehensive as could be desired. . . . We can readily testify to the strict 
 impartiality of the author."— TAe Field. 
 
 r^ICYCLES AND TRICYCLES OF THE YEAR. De- 
 
 ^^ scriptions of the New Inventions and Improvements for the Present 
 
 Season. Designed to assist intending purchasers in the choice of a 
 
 machine. Illustrated. By Harry Hewitt Griffin. (Published 
 
 Annually.) In paper, price is. 
 
 " No one interested in conjuring should be without this yiork."— Saturday Review. 
 CTLEIGHT of hand, a Practical Manual of Legerdemain 
 '^^ for Amateurs and Others. New Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
 Profusely Illustrated. By Edwin Sachs. In cloth gilt, price 6s. 6d. 
 
 " Most amusing. ... A better book cannot be purchased."— 2k»(Zies' Journal. 
 
 BAZAARS AND FANCY FAIRS : A Guide to their 
 Organisation and Management, with Details of Various Devices 
 for Extracting Money from the Visitors. In paper, price \s. 
 
 " Alike valuable to the beginner and the practised photographer."— PAofOfjrropAtc 
 
 News. 
 
 PRACTICAL PHOTOGRAPHY : Being the Science and Art 
 of Photography, both Wet Collodion and the various Dry Plate 
 Processes. Developed for Amateurs and Beginners. Illustrated. By 
 O. E. Wheeler. In cloth gilt, price ^s. 
 
 " We can heartily commend these six plays." — Ladies' Journal. 
 
 SIX PLAYS FOR CHILDREN. Written specially for Repre- 
 sentation by Children, and Designed to Interest both Actors and 
 Audience. With Instructions for Impromptu Scenery, Costumes, and 
 Effects, and the Airs of the Various Songs. By Chas. Harrison, 
 Author of "Amateur Theatricals and Tableaux Vivants." Price is. 
 
 •' Will be found invaluable."— Ccmrt Journal. 
 
 /^HEATRICALS AND TABLEAUX VIVANTS FOR AMA- 
 ^ TEURS. Giving Full Directions as to Stage Arrangements, 
 
 " Making-up," Costumes, and Acting. With Numerous Illustrations. 
 
 By Chas. Harrison. In cloth gilt, price is. 6d. 
 
 PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS.] [AU Books sent Carriage Free. 
 
1O0KS T m •!• TMl •!• WEEB 
 
 JANGLING IN SALT WATER. A Book for all Visitors to the 
 
 Seaside, showing how to catch Sea Fish from Piers, Jetties, Rocks, and Boats, so 
 
 as to obtain true sport. By the use of proper Tackle and Baits, Angling in Salt Water 
 may be made to yield as much sport as Angling in Fresh Water, which, it must be 
 admitted, is a very decided advance upon the usual methods. " Angling in Salt 
 Water" is written by a thoroughly practical Angler, and is well Illustrated with 
 Engravings of Tackle, Methods of Fishing, &c. Price Is. 
 
 FRUIT CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Handboolc on 
 
 — Selecting and Successfully Growing the Best Varieties of our Hardy Fruits, in- 
 cluding the Apple, Apricot, Cherry, Chestnut, Currant, Fig, Filbert, Gooseberry, Medlar, 
 Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, Pear, Plum, Quince, Easpberry, Strawberry^ Walnut. 
 Illustrated. By John Garrett. Price Is. 
 
 MORSE-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Manual on 
 
 — - the Management of Horses, for the guidance of those who keep from one to six 
 for their personal use. By Fox Rlssell. Price Is. 
 
 npHE ST. BERNARD (No. II. of Monographs on British Dogs), 
 
 * with Coloured Frontispiece and a full-page Engraving. The most complete treatise 
 on this noble Dog that has yet been published. By Hugh Dalziel. Price is. bd. 
 
 ^OSES FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Guide to the Selection 
 
 and Cultivation of the best Roses, both for exhibition or mere pleasure, by that 
 
 large section of the Gardening World, the amateur lover of Roses. Illustrated. By the 
 Rev. J. HONEYWOOD D'Ombrain, Hon. Sec. of the National Rose Society. Price Is. 
 
 QLD VIOLIN MASTERS AND THEIR MUSIC, with Examples 
 
 ^^ and Illustrations. By J. M. Fleming, Author of "Old Violins and their Makers," 
 " The Practical Violin School," and " Easy Legato Studies for the Violin," with which 
 latter works the present one will be imiform in size and style. In Monthly Parts, price Id. 
 
 A CLEAR COMPLEXION. 
 
 PIMPLES, Black Specks, Sunburn, Freckles, and unsightly Blotched on the 
 Face, Neck, Arms, and Hands, can be instantly removed by using Mrs. JAMES'S 
 HERBAL OINTMENT, made from herbs only, and warranted harmless. It imparts such 
 a lovely clearness to the skin that astonishes everyone. Of all chemists, Is. l^d. A box 
 (with directions) sent free from observation, post free, on receipt of 15 stamps to — 
 
 Mrs. A. JAMES, 268, Caledonian Road, London, N. 
 
 LUXURIANT HAIR. 
 
 LONG, FLOWING EYELASHES, EYEBEOWS, &c., are QUICKLY 
 PRODUCED by using JAMES'S HERBAL POMADE. It is invaluable for the pro- 
 duction of Whiskers, Beards, and Moustachios ; it causes the hair to grow on bald places 
 and scanty partings. Of most chemists, Is. ; or a box of it sent free from observation, post 
 free, for 15 stamps. 
 
 Mrs. A. JAMES, 268, Caledonian Road, London, N. 
 
 HAIB DESTROYER. 
 
 JAMES'S DEPILATOEY Instantly Eemoves Superfluous Hairs from the 
 Face, Neck, or Arms, without Injury to the Skin. Of most chemists, Is. ; or sent 
 with direct ons for use, free from observation, post free, for 15 stamps. 
 
 Mrs. A. JAMES, 268, Caledonian Road, London, N. 
 
A Few Hecipes for Houseliold Use. 
 
 TO MAZE A B.ICH PLUM CAKE.— Take half-a-pound of butter and 
 half-a-pound of white sifted sugar, beat these with the hand well together to 
 a cream ; add four eggs, one at a time, and well beat each one with the butter 
 and sugar ; lightly mix in one pound of flour, previously mixed with one tea- 
 spoonful of BoRwiCK's Gold Medal Baking Powder, then lightly mix 
 with the whole half-a-pound of sultanas ; bake at once thoroughly, in a' quick 
 oven. 
 
 TO MAKE A FULL GOOD PLAIN CAKE.— Mix well together one 
 pound of flour, two teaspoonfuls of Borwick's Gold Medal Baking 
 Powder, a little salt and spice, and a quarter-of-a-pound of sugar ; rub in a 
 quarter-of-a-pound of butter, add six ounces of sultanas, two ounces of currants, 
 and one ounce of candied peel ; moisten the whole with two eggs, and half-a- 
 teacupful of milk previously beaten together; bake in a quick oven very 
 thoroughlv. 
 
 BORWICK'S 
 
 BAKINC 
 POWDER 
 
 IfBORWICK'Sisnot 
 
 the best in the world, 
 why has it gained 
 5 gold medals, 
 
 Any housewife will 
 answer : Because it 
 makes the best 
 bread.thelight- 
 est pastry, and 
 most tempt- 
 ing cakes and 
 puddings. Tell 
 
 your 
 
 grocer 
 
 ■you must have 
 "Bokwick's. 
 
 TO MAKE BREAD. — To every pound of flour add a heaped-up tea- 
 spoonful of Borwick's Gold Medal Baking Powder, with a Httle salt, 
 and thoroughly mix while in a dry state, then pour on gradually about half- 
 a-pint of cold water, or milk and water, mixing quickly but thoroughly into 
 a dough of the usual consistence, taking care not to knead it more than is 
 necessary to mix it perfectly ; make it into small loaves, which must be 
 immediately put into a quick oven. 
 
 PUPP PASTE. — Mix one pound of flour with a teaspoonful of Borwick's 
 Gold Medal Baking Powder, then cut half-a-pound of butter into slices, 
 roll it in thin sheets on some of your flour, wet up the rest with about a 
 quarter-of-a-pint of water, see that it is about as stiff" as your butter, roll it 
 to a thin sheet, cover it with your sheets of butter, double it in a three 
 double ; do the same five times; it is then fit for use, or it may stand an hour 
 covered over to keep the air from it. 
 
 Tell your Grocers you must have BORWICK'S. 
 
KENNEL 
 CHRONICLE. 
 
 ^ PUBLISHED JVIONTHLY, 1d. i^ 
 
 Yearly Subscription is Is. 6d,, Post Free, 
 
 A first-rate medium for Advertisements of all things relating to 
 Dogs. A Circulation of over 10,000 Copies guaranteed. 
 
 TTTHE ''KENNEL CHRONICLE'' is the most complete 
 ®X^ and compact Chronicle of Dog Shows, a List of the 
 Prize Winners at every Exhibition held in the United 
 Kingdom, and at the most important Shows abroad, being 
 given in its pages, and these are fully indexed, so that ready 
 reference can be made to facts, giving invaluable aid to 
 Purchasers, Breeders, and others, in PROVING OR DIS- 
 PROVING Statements made respecting Dogs offered 
 FOR Sale or at Stud, &c. 
 
 In addition to the above features, the *' KENNEL 
 CHRONICLE " contains Registers of Births of Pups, 
 Dogs at Stud, Change of Ownership, Stud Visits, List 
 of Champions, &c., and Notes on all occurrences of per- 
 manent interest in canine circles. 
 
 Entry Fees. — Pedigree Register : Winners of a 
 Prize at any Public Show, FREE ; Non-Winners, is. each. 
 Produce, Name, and Sale Registers, 6d. each. Stud 
 Register, id. for Two Words. Entry Forms Free on 
 Application. 
 
 The Yearly Volumes of the " KENNEL CHRONICLE," 
 neatly Bound in Cloth, 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Office: 170, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
^owLiips' Toilet Ruticles 
 
 Have been known for nearly 100 years to be the best 
 "which can be obtained : the best articles are, in the long run, always the cheapest. 
 
 
 V ^ORTHE CR&A/rH;nESTORATlON^ 
 & FOR BEAUTiFVINC THE HUMAN MAin 
 
 ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL 
 
 Is the best and safest preserver and beautifier of the hair, and has a most 
 delicate and fragrant bouquet. It contains no lead or mineral ingredients, and 
 can also be had in 
 
 A GOLDEN COLOUR 
 
 for fair and golden-haired children, and people whose hair has become grey. 
 Sizes : 3/6, 7/- ; 10/6, equal to four small. 
 
 ROWLANDS' KALYOOR 
 
 Is a most soothing emollient and refreshing preparation for the face, hands, 
 and arms. It removes all freckles, tan, sunburn, sting of insects, prickly heat, 
 chaps, redness, irritation and roughness of the skin, &c., produces a beautiful 
 and delicate complexion, and renders the 
 
 SKIN SOFT, FAIR, 
 
 and delicate ; it is warranted free from any greasy or metallic ingredients. Sizes : 
 4/6 and 8/6. Half-sized bottles at 2/3. 
 
 ROWLANDS' ODONTO 
 
 Is the best, purest, and most fragrant Tooth Powder ; it prevents and arrests 
 decay, strengthens the gums, gives a pleasing fragrance to the breath, and 
 renders the 
 
 TEETH WHITE AMD SOUND. 
 
 ROWLANDS' EUKONIA 
 
 Is a pure and delicate toilet powder, free from any bismuth or metallic ingredients. 
 Sold in three tints, white, rose, and cream, 2/6 per box. Ask for 
 
 ROWLANDS' ARTICLES, 
 
 of 20, Hatton Garden, London, and avoid cheap, spurious imitations, under 
 the same or similar names. 
 
Why many Persons Permanently Submit 
 
 sr^-v^ ^-TT-/-^ to the 
 
 •' Tm every defect of I^ature 
 
 Art offers a remedy. 
 
 GREY HAIR 
 
 Rather tlian attempt to Restore it. 
 
 Ist. — Because the old fashioned and objectionable Hair Dyes dry up and spoil the Hair. 
 2nd.— Because the majority of " Hair Restorers" bring the users into ridicule by pro- 
 ducing only a sickly yellow tint or dirty greenish stain, instead of a proper colour. 
 
 The following Testimonials (of many hundreds received) declare the value of 
 
 LATREILLE'S HYPERION HAIR RESTORER 
 
 As positively restoring grey or white hair to the REALLY NATURAL colour, gloss, softness, luxuriance, 
 and beauty of youth ; it so perfectly accomplishes its work and fulfils its promise, that in briUiant sun- 
 shine, or under glaring gaslight, the user can alike defy detection in ever having been grey, or used a 
 remedy, while as a nourisher and strengthener of weak hair it has no equal. 
 Price 3s. 6d., sent in return for Postal Order or Stamps, by the Proprietors, 
 Ijatreille & Co., Kennington, London (Established 25 years at Walworth), or may be had 
 
 of Chemists ; 
 
 But it is strongly advised that anything else, offered from interested motives, be resolutely refused, as 
 
 LatreUle's Hyperion NEVER DISAPPOINTS. All (.hemists can readily procure through wholesale 
 
 houses, if they have it not themselves in stock. 
 
 SPECIMEN TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 20, Royal Greorge-street, Stockport, 
 
 February 26, 1880, 
 Deab Sib,— My hair went white through trouble 
 and sickness, but one bottle of your Hyperion 
 Hair Restorer brought it back to a splendid brown, 
 £is nice as it was in my young days. I am now forty 
 years old, and all my friends wonder to see me 
 restored from white to brown. You can make 
 what use you like of this. Y'ours truly, 
 
 (Mrs.) Maria WoRTHiSGTOif. 
 
 High-street, Corsham, Wilts, 
 
 December 2, 1874. 
 Dear Sir,— I enclose stamps for another bottle 
 of your Hyperion Hair Restorer ; its clean qualities 
 are sufficient to recommend it anywhere. 
 
 Yours respectfully, E. Mats ahd. 
 
 182, High-street, Stourbridge, May 16, 1878. 
 Sir,— I find your Hyperion Hair Restorer is a 
 first-class and really genuine article, and is well 
 worth the money. After using it thrice, my hair 
 began to turn the natural colour, whereas before it 
 was quite grey ; it also keeps the hair from falling 
 off, and I shall always recommend it to everyone I 
 know. You are at liberty to pubhsh this if you 
 choose. Yours truly, (Mrs.) M. Davis. 
 
 Thirsk, Yorks, January 26, 1876. 
 Dear Sir,— I use your Hj-perion Hair Restorer, 
 and find it everything which has been said in its 
 favour. I am, dear Sir, yours truly, T. Coatbs. 
 
 Porchester, near Fareham, Hants, Oct. 16, 1875. 
 
 Sir,— Please send me another bottle of your 
 Hyperion Hair Restorer ; it is better than any other 
 restorer I have tried. Yours faithfully, 
 
 (Mrs.) C. Christie. 
 
 St. Heliers, Jersey, 
 
 August 1, 1873. 
 Sir,— Please send me another bottle of your Hype- 
 rion flair Restorer ; I bear willing testimony to its 
 being very pleasant to use, both as to cleaiiliness 
 and absence of disagreeable smell. 
 
 Yours truly, F. dk Lusigkaw. 
 
 2, Fir-street, Sydenham, 
 
 July 15, 187S. 
 Dear Sir,— I am most happy to tell you that I 
 have reason to commend your excellent Hyperion 
 Hair Restorer, as it has already turned the grey 
 hair of a person fifty-seven years old to its natural 
 colour. Yours respectfully, 
 
 T. WHATMOaB. 
 
 83, Dewsbury-road, Leeds, 
 
 May 23, 1878. 
 Dear Sir,— I want half-a-dozen more bottles of 
 yoTir Hyperion Hair Restorer, some for friends and 
 the remainder for myself : it is the best restorer of 
 grey hair to its natural colour. 
 
 Yours truly, James Dawsos. 
 
 ♦* Be careful to ask for Latreille's Hyperion Hair Hestorer, as the manu- 
 facturer is also proprietor of Latreille's Excelsior Lotion, -which is a separate 
 preparation, of universal repute for 25 years past, as a Producer of Hair. 
 
NOTHING EVER INTRODUCED HAS BEEN FOUND TO EQUAL 
 
 Latreille's Excelsior Lotion 
 
 Celebrated among all classes of Society all over the World as the only Real Producer of 
 
 WHISKERS AND MOUSTACHIOS, 
 
 Remedy for Baldness, Weak and Falling Hair, Ac, and Cnrer of Scnrf or Dandrlff. 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^0^^*0^^^ 
 
 Price 2s. 6d. per Bottle. 
 
 Can be had of any Chemist, throug-h Barclay, Sanger, Newbert, Edwards, 
 
 Sutton, Thompson, Hovendbn, Maw & Co., or any other Wholeaale Chemist, or 
 
 direct from the Proprietors, 
 
 LATREILLE & CO., KENNINGTON, LONDON, S.E. 
 
 (Established 25 years at Walwortli), 
 On remitting Postal Order or Stamps. 
 
 »^^^o^^k^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^\y^^^^^^^^,^^^v^x^«.«-*.«^ 
 
 CAUTION. — Be careful to ask for Latreille's "Excelsior Lotion," and refuse any thing 
 else that may he offered, as the enormous success, extending over twenty-Jive years, has 
 led to many useless imitations, which can only disappoint. The title ** EXCELSIOR 
 LOTION" is a registered Trade Mark, to copy which will incur criminal prosecution. 
 
(Books. Circulars, Billheads. dc.J. 
 
 REASONABLE CHARGES, 
 
 IS UNDERTAKEN AT 
 
 ^mm 
 
 pA' 
 
 M M 1^ 
 
 IL\\ IL\\ |j^<| 
 
 ^.mn; 
 
 ^^ ^^^* 
 
 — .;/«;ji«.y;t«.y<:/«yjt:'..v<:..y.. 
 
 ESTIMATES GIVEN 
 
 37, Surrey Street, Strand, 
 London, W.C. 
 
•#• W P H * 
 
 Mentioned in this Catalogue are icept in stock by the following 
 leading Booksellers:— 
 
 Aberdeen, Wyllie and Son. 
 
 Barnstaple, H. A. Foyster, 90, High 
 
 Street. 
 Bath, W. Gregory and Son, 1, Wood 
 
 Street. 
 Belfast, Wm. Mullan and Son. 
 Birmingham, Midland' Educational Co. 
 Blackburn, E. Denham, King William 
 
 Street. 
 Bolton, G. Winterburn. 
 Bournemouth, F. J. Bright, 10 and 11, 
 
 Arcade. 
 Bradford, Matthews and Brooke, Sun 
 
 Buildings. 
 Bridgwater, Whitby and Son. 
 Brighton, Treacher Bros., North Street. 
 Bristol, W. D. Buckle, 7, Corn Street. 
 Burnley, J. and A. Lupton. 
 Bury, W. Wardleworth. 
 
 Cambridge, H. W. Wallis. 
 Cardiff, Scholastic Trading Co. 
 Carlisle, A. D. Moss, English Street. 
 Cheltenham, W. Norton, Clarence 
 
 Street. 
 Chester, Minshull and Meeson. 
 Chichester, W. H. Barrett, The Cross. 
 Cirencester, Bailey and Son. 
 Clacton-on-Sea, Nunn and Ubsdell, 
 
 1, Pier Avenue. 
 Clevedon, E. J. Wareham. 
 Coventry, W. W. Curtice and Co., 
 
 Corn Exchange. 
 Croydon, Eoffey and Clark. 
 
 Derby, Bemrose and Son, Irongate. 
 
 Devonport, J. Clark. 
 
 Dublin, C. Combridge, Grafton Street. 
 
 Edinburgh, Douglas and Foulis, 9, 
 
 Castle Street. 
 JExeter, H. S. Eland, High Street. 
 
 Glasgow, W. and E. Holmes, Dunlop 
 
 Street. 
 Great Yarmouth, A. and W. Huke, 12 
 
 and 14, Market Eow. 
 
 Halifax, J. Crossley, 19, Union Street, 
 Hereford, Jakeman and Carver, High 
 
 Street. 
 Hertford, Simpson and Son. 
 Hinckley, W. Pickering. 
 
 Hull, A. Brown and Sons. 
 Kingston-on-Thames, Phillipson. 
 
 Leeds, Walker and Lay cock, 37, Brig- 
 gate. 
 
 Leicester, Midland Educational Co., 
 Market Street. 
 
 Liverpool, Hales and Freeman, 13, 
 Moorfields. 
 
 Llandudno, W. Wardleworth. 
 
 Llanelly, W. Davies, Market Street. 
 
 Loughborough, H. Wills, 4, Market 
 Place. 
 
 Manchester, J. Heywood, Deansgate. 
 Melton Mowbray, W. Loxley. 
 
 Newcastle-on-Tyne, E. J. Porteus and 
 
 Co., 19, Grainger Street West. 
 Norwich, Jarrold and Son. 
 Nottingham, E. Denham, Wheelergate. 
 
 Oldham, W. Wardleworth. 
 Oxford, Slatte'r and Eose. 
 
 Peterborough, W. H. Pentney, 9, 
 
 Narrow Street. 
 Plymouth, Doidge. 
 Portsea, Mr. Gardner. 
 Portsmouth, Mr. Long. 
 
 Reading, A. Farrer and Co., 39, Broad 
 
 Street. 
 Rugby, Over. 
 
 Scarborough, E. T. W. Dennis. 
 Sheffield, T. T. Widdison, 
 Southport, W. Wardleworth. 
 Spilsby, T. A. Bellamy. 
 Sunderland, Hills and Co. 
 Swansea, E. and J. Griflfiths. 
 
 Taunton, Barnicott and Son. 
 Torquay, A. Iredale, Cary Place, Fleet 
 
 Street. 
 Trowbridge, G. W. Eose, Church 
 
 Street. 
 
 Warwick, Cooke and Son. 
 Worcester, Deighton and Co., High 
 Street. 
 
 York, North of England Trading Co. 
 
PRIVATE 
 
 DUOCf AMCf ^^^'^^S occasion to Dispose of 
 A iJilliL^V/lliLy or Procure any Article of Per- 
 sonal Property, would find 
 that they could SELL, BUY 
 or EXCHANGE to the best advantage through the medium of 
 THE BAZAAR, EXCHANGE AND MART. The Globe says :— 
 " Like all grand conceptions, the process is remarkable for its simplicity ;" 
 whilst the Saturday Review says : — " Subscribers to this periodical, 
 besides the opportunity of buying and selling every possible and 
 impossible thing, enjoy the advantage of knowing what are the best 
 novels and the best articles in the magazines and reviews. Corre- 
 spondents may obtain answers to questions almost as various as the 
 articles offered for sale, or the tastes of the ladies who deal in 
 them. . . . But more wonderful even than his (the Editor's) knowledge 
 is the extent of his transactions. When strangers are dealing together, 
 the purchase money for the articles sold may be deposited at his office, 
 and he charges a moderate fee for the accommodation. But persons 
 who advertise frequently, find it convenient to give references as to 
 position and character, and thus to avoid the necessity of deposit. The 
 references must be ' first class ' in London, and in the country they 
 must be lawyers, clergymen, or doctors. He decides all disputes between 
 buyers and sellers, on inspection of the article, and perusual of the 
 correspondence respecting it." 
 
 THE BAZAAR has been Established upwards of 19 Years, and 
 during that time many millions' worth of Property have been BOUGHT, 
 SOLD, and EXCHANGED through its columns, and, in very many 
 instances. Articles for which there had previously been no market found 
 ready sale. The Announcements are carefully classified to assist both 
 Buyers and Sellers, and the necessity of this will be recognised when 
 it is remembered that frequently a single issue of the Paper contains 
 more than 3,000 Announcements. The following are the DEPART- 
 MENTS, each of which is again thoroughly classified : — 
 
 Amateurs'Work 
 
 Financial 
 
 Library 
 
 Riding and 
 
 Aviary 
 
 Fine Arts 
 
 Mechanics 
 
 Driving 
 
 Brie a-Brac 
 
 Garden 
 
 Music 
 
 Scientific 
 
 Country House 
 
 Jewellery and 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Sports and Pas- 
 
 Domestic 
 
 Plate 
 
 Poultry 
 
 times 
 
 Dress 
 
 Kennel 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 and 
 
 Ecclesiastical 
 
 
 
 Unclassified. 
 
 In these Departments, during the last twelve months, no fewer than 
 365,242 Advertisements appeared, concerning property 
 estimated to be worth between JS 7 50,000 and 
 £800,000. THE BAZAAR also gives a vast 
 amount of information of use or interest in every house- 
 hold. Specimen Copy post free for Two Penny Stamps. 
 
 0FFICE:-170. STRAND, LONDON, W.C 
 
^ RULES FOR ADVERTISING •<- 
 
 1. Charg'es. — (a) Fourpence for twelve words or less, and one penny for 
 every additional three words, to be sent with the advertisement. Advertise- 
 ments may be paid for by Stamps, Postal Notes, Money Orders, Cash, or Cheques, 
 as may be most convenient. 
 
 (6) A single figure or letter, or a group of figures, undivided by letter, space, 
 stop, or word, counts as one word ; compound words count as two words. 
 The name and address, whether published or not, are charged for ; but a 
 private number at our of&ce, in place of a published address, may be had 
 FREE OF CHARGE. If a private number be used, the advertiser 
 should give the name of his post town or county, which also will be 
 inserted FREE. 
 
 (c) When two or more advertisements are sent at one time, each must be on 
 
 a separate piece of paper, not smaller than a post card, written on one 
 side only, and the words counted and paid for apart from each other. 
 
 (d) An Advertisement may be Booked for a Monday's, Wednesday's, or Friday's 
 issue, or for a specified date, on payment of a fee of Id. Advertisements 
 so Booked must be marked separately in the bottom right-hand corner, 
 thus: "Book, Wed., Id." 
 
 2. Classification. — Only one class of article may be offered in each 
 advertisement, except in the " Unclassified " column. 
 
 3. Dress.— Articles of dress (with the exception of furs, feathers, artificial 
 flowers, Indian shawls and scarves, lace, naval and military uniforms, and 
 ecclesiastical or academical vestments and hoods) MUST BE NEW, i.e., never 
 worn beyond the trial occasion, and specified as such IN the advertisement. 
 
 4. Fxohibitions. — Advertisements of copied music, prescriptions, recipes, 
 loans, false hair, worn wearing apparel (with the above-mentioned exceptions) 
 cannot be inserted. Tobacco and wines may not be sold without a licence, but 
 may be exchanged for specified articles. 
 
 5. Stamp for Reply.— The request for a "stamp for reply," or "first 
 P.O.O.," will not be permitted in any advertisement, unless the advertiser be 
 on the Reference Book. 
 
 6. Identity. — The advertiser's full name and private address must be at all 
 times given for the Editor's use, even though it is not to be published. 
 
 *' THE BAZAAR" may he obtained through all Newsagents, price 2d. ; but Readers who 
 cannot easily and punctually obtain it should send us th^ following 
 
 Please send **THE BAZAAR " every* 
 
 for). .' months J commencing from 
 
 for which I enclosed 
 
 Date Name 
 
 Address. 
 
 NOTE.— Terms of Subscription. NOTE.— Arrangement, 
 
 3 Months. 6 Months. 12 Months. Each issue is so arranged as to be independent of the 
 
 1 issue weekly 2s. 8d. — 5s. 4d. — lOs. 8d. others, e.i;., serial articles commenced in a 3Ionday's 
 
 2 issues weekly .... 5s. 4d. — lOs. 8d. — 21s. 4d. paper are continued in Monday issues only, and so on, 
 
 8 „ „ 8s. Od. — 16s. Od. — 32s. Od. j with queries, &c. Editorial replies and advertisements 
 
 P.O.O.'s, money orders, or cheques should be pay-, are inserted in any issue desired by the subscriber. 
 
 able to L. Upcott Gill, and crossed "London and* Thus a subscriber can take which issue is most con - 
 Westminster Bank" for security. Stamps can be sent! venient without losing touch of the subjects that are 
 for small sums. I interesting him. 
 
 * State days required, e.g., Monday, Wednesday, or Friday. t State 3, 6, or 12 Months. State 
 
 amount and how sent, whether by P. 0. 0.,or Cheque, die. 
 
 Office:— 170, Strand, London, W.C. 
 
Purveyors by Special Warrants to 
 
 H.M. THE QUEEN 
 
 and 
 
 BY SPECIAL H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. by special 
 
 APPOINTMENT. 
 
 APPOINTMENT. 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT 
 
 Meat ''Fibrine" Vegetable 
 
 DOG CAKES 
 
 (WITH BEETROOT). 
 
 BE WARE or WORTHLESS IMITATIONS! 
 SEE EACH CAKE IS STAMPED 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT and a "X." 
 
 COD LIVER OIL 
 
 ID CD Of O^i^ICES. 
 
 For Puppies after Distemper, and for Dainty Feeders and 
 Sick or Pet Dogs. 
 
 DISTEMPER POWDERS, WORM POWDERS, MANGE, ECZEMA, 
 
 and EAR CANKER LOTIONS, TONIC CONDITION PILLS, &c. 
 
 PAMPHLET ON CANINE DISEASES, 
 
 And full List of Medicines, Post Free. 
 
 Dog, Poultry, Game Houses ^ Appliances. 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT 
 
 POULTRY MEAL. 
 
 The Most Nutritious and Digestible Food for Chicks and Laying Hens (being 
 thoroughly cooked). Samples Post Free. 
 
 New Edition of " THE COMMON SENSE of POULTRY KEEPING," 3d., Post Free 
 GRANULATED PBAIBIE MEAT, ''CBISSEL." 
 
 Price 25s. per cwt. Takes the Place of Insect Life. 
 
 "CARDIAC:" A TONIC FOR POULTRY, 
 
 Price Is. per Packet, or 3s. per 71b. Bag. 
 
 G- J^2^:H1 :3Ny/^E.A.Ij. 
 
 SAMPLE AND FXILZ, JPABTICZTLAMS POST FREE. 
 Extract from "THE FIELD ":—" Thanks to Spratts Pheasant Meal and Crissel, I 
 have reduced the cost a great deal, and reared a considerably greater average. With Spratts 
 Food they require no custards, ants' eggs, or, in fact, anything from hatching till they are 
 turned in coverts and eat corn."— Careful Sportsman. 
 
 "The Common Sense of Pheasant Rearing," 3d., Post Free. 
 
 Spratts Patent, Limited, Loudon, S.E. 
 
iTURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWEl 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 
 P^i^^^^^^i^ Renewed books are subject 1 
 
 to immediate recall. 
 
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 LD 21A-50m-3,'62 
 (C70978]0)476B 
 
 General Library 
 
 University of California 
 
 Berkeley 
 
iWlltlAMGEORGtSSONSI 
 89.PARKSTREET,BRISTC